The Sun.
London, England, 1834-01-01 00:00:00

DECEMBER.

2. A riot takes place at Cambridge, when the mob
break into the anatomy room, and destroy the preparations.
3. Lord Exmouth (son of the first Lord) dies, in his
47th sear.

6. Samuel Tliornley murders Mary Pemberton, near

(From the Court Magazine.)
GENERAL OBSERN ATIONS ON FASHIONS AND DRESS.
—Mantles trimmed and lined with fur are now beginning
to be very generally adopted. Sable, Isabella bear, and
that delicate fur called Kolinski, are all employed for that
purpose. The greater number of these mantles are con-
fined round the waist by a silk cord corresponding with
the cloak in colour ; it ties in front, and terminates in
rich tassels, which hang low. A similar cord, but much
smaller, attaches the collar round the throat. Where fur
is not employed, the collar is generally of velvet, and a
velvet piping borders the mantle. All the new ones are
made with pockets in the lining. There seems to be no
decided fashion as to the sleeves, some being made with
and others without. The exc-ssive fulness of the pelerine
is extremely disadvantageous to the figure, particularly
when, as is often the case, it is cut straight. Velvet end
satin pelisses are also adopted in carriage dress. We
observe that those of both materials, but particularly of
the latter, are frequently adorned with fancy silk trim-
mings. The most novel, and in our opinion, the most
elegant pelisses, are those of the rich new material, called
satin moyen age, with dark blue grounds, and orange pat-
terns ; or else the ground black and the pattern in rose or
ruby. The corsage high and plain, covered with a large pele-
rine of the same material, trimmed with broad black real
lace. The pelerine closes before by three brandeboutgs of the
olive fortn. The skirt, of the usual width, is also dosed
down the front by a row of olives, on each side of which
is a light embroidery in silk braiding of the two colours of
the pelisse ; it is narrow at the waist, but enlarges gra-
dually as it descends. The sleeves are made wide train
the shoulder, nearly to the wrist, but the fulness of the
lower part is confined from the bend of the arm down.
wards by bands placed obliquely; they are lightly embroi-
dered, and terminated at each end by a small olive. Satin
bonnets, trimmed with plain satin riband to correspond,
and bordered by curtain veils of black real lace, are
adopted by many elegantes in morning dress. Several are
of the bibi kind, but yet differ in some respects from any
that have yet been introduced. The crown is of the jockey
form, and not placed so backward as that of a bibi. The
front is a little turned up at the edge, short at the ears,
and of moderate depth. The curtain at the biaiile of the
crown is very shallow, and moderately full. This is a
generally becoming style of bonnet, and lass a particularly
youthful effect. Brides of tulle or blond lace are generally
adopted with it ; the Majority are of the cornette kind.
We may cite among the prettiest half-dress bonnets one of
turquoise blue velvet ; the crown, slightly rounded, was
encircled with a bandeau, placed rather lower than usual;
a rose formed of blue satin riband, set on one side, was its
sole ornament. Half-dress hats continue to be made with
the brims very long, close at the sides, but standing out
very far from the forehead. Though the majority are trannied
with feathers, yet we see several of the new ones adorned
with velvet flowers of the fancy kind, in which a mixture of
black and orange continues very predominant. Velvet
begins to be generally adopted in half-dress robes. Several
are made with high bodies, and worn with mantelets of
plain satin corresponding in colour. Pelisse robes of
satin are also fashionable in half-dress. The most novel
I are made with three large plaits down the front of the
corsage and skirt ; the remainder of the body is phin
before; the back is plain at the sides, but is drawn in lull
in the middle under the ceinture. Peleriiie-manteleta
continue in favour. We see also that those made with
four points have again become fashionable ; they are in
general trimmed with black blond or real lace. Among
the new silks that have appeared for evening and dinner
dress, we may cite the Persian taffeta, one of the best
imitations that has yet appeared of the silks that were
fashionable between 50 and 60 years ago. The pre test
are those with a milk white or letnon•coloured ground,
thickly strewed with small bouquets of roses. Blood lace
turbans begin to be in great request ; they are certainly
a most becoming style of head-dress. Some are composed
of a scarf, sustained by a long piece of satin twisted ; it
may be either white or coloured, according to the taste of
the wearer. Same, but very few, turbans are composed
of black blond lace over coloured satin. Fashionable
colours are geranium, olive brown, claret colour, orange,
violet, and various shades of rose-colour and green,

(From the Lady's Magazine and Museum.)
TOILETTE DE BAL.-Our plate gives an exact repre-
sentation of the style of coiffure adopted in France during
the reign of Charles VII. The front hair is drawn in
smooth binds as far as the temples, where it is braided,
and turned round two or three times, and fastened in the
centre by a small gold ornament. Another braid, forming
large bow of hair, falls towards the back of the neck.
The back hair is turned up en chignon: a thick braid
with a row of pearls twisted over it, goes round the head,
and finishes by being twisted in the chignon at the back.
A golden arrow, placed at the back of the heal, fastens
the braid and chignon. A string of pearls entirely encir-
cles the head, sad crosses the upper part of the brow.
Dress of white tulle, corsage plain, and perfectly tight to
the bust. Sleeves a double sabot, with immensely deep
ruffles ala Louis XV. A rich tnantille of blond orna-
ments the corsage. At the back and front the mantille is
very narrow, and in a single fall ; but on the shoulders it
is excessively deep and full, and in three falls. The skirt
of the dress is ornamented en tablier, with guirlandes os
small roses, with buds and foliage. Five full-blown roses,
increasing i❑ size as they go down, are placed at distances
down the centre of the front of the skirt. On the shoulders,
in place of the nwuds de page, are two full-blown roses,
and two others make a finish to the ruffles at the inner
part of the artis. White satin ceintures, fastened in two
toques (bows without ends) at the back. The necklace
consists of a double chain of pearls, to which is suspended
a small, flat scent bottle, that is bid beneath the ceinture.
White silk stockings a fours (open work) ; white satin
shoes, white kid gloves, blond scarf and fau a la Valois.

(From the World of Fashion.)
PROMENADE DRESS.--A Redingote of purple merino,
trimmed down the fronts en tablier with black lace ; a
round peleriue, fastened by three small bows of black tulle,
and edged eu suite with the robing of the dress ; long
sleeves, the fulness confined by three phits at tie elbow,
in the centre of them a little rosette. A bonnet of blue
Soie de Reine, spotted in black, is tied close under the
chin; the bows and brides are of blue gum de Naples
riband, as is also the forehead bandeau, and bows inside
t brira.

EVENING DRESS.—An evening dress of satin, du
Levant, the ground, citron colour, trac,d with small de-
tached flowers in black ; sabot sleeves, and rich blond lace
drapery, a la Sevigne, on the corsage; the hair is dressed
rather high behind, the braids being confined by one fl it
tress; a wreath of green flowers widens over the fun tufts
of curls on temples ; a pearl necklace and ear-rings com-
plete this most elegant costume.

THE PARISIAN GAMBLING HOUSES.-
The Court Journal of Saturday next (the fiat for the
new year) will contain the first of a series of articles by a
For.ign Viscount on a subject of considerable interest to a
large body of the fashionable world. These papers ate on
" The Origin and Progress of the G unbling Houses of
Paris," and their publication will, without doubt, be
a tended with touch benefit. Tue Court Journal is
regularly published every Saturday, and supplied, free of
postage, by all the newsmen, and orders should be sent
,ifitnediately to prevent dis ippointment. The office fur
communications is at 19, Catherine-sweet, Strand.

31 i.ciAZINE DAY.

BLACKTV 0 OD'S MAGAZINE.

We have so often noticed the Homeric criti-
cisms
of Professor Wilson, that our present task
is, comparatively speaking, a sinecure. Having
dug up and exposed to public admiration all
the various treasures of fancy and feeling that
lay hidden beneath the surface, in the Iliad,
the Professor has now turned his attention to
the Odyssey, where there is an equal field for
discovery, as he has shown in his acute analysis
of the character of Telemachus, which Rapin
misunderstood, and Fenelon but imperfectly
developed. The criticism is a masterly one,
populous with happy thoughts, and sparkling
all over like a fire-fly. The old tutor of
Queen Zenohia might he proud to own it.
Edmund Burke " is remarkable for nothing
but its astounding, off-hand misstatements. To
make out his case the author sticks at nothing.
For instance, wishing to prejudice us against
all the leaders of the French revolution, he
mixes up the Girondists with the Terrorists ;
whereas no two parties ever held each other's
principles in greater abhorrence. The Rolands,
Baillys, and Briscots of the National Assembly,
had nothing in common with the Dantons,
Collot D'Herbois, and Robespierres, of the
Jacobin clubs. The former were temperate,
enlightened reformers ; the latter, headstrong,
blood-thirsty anarchists. Renovation was the
watch-word of the Girondists ; destruction, that
of the Terrorists. Both fell, the one party
because it had too much faith in the inherent
goodness of humanity ; the other, because it
was wholly distrustful of it. Virtue has its
bigots, as well as vice. The author of this
sweeping diatribe is clearly a parson. Thus he
tells us that—

" The first act of the National Assembly, ten thousand
times more culpable in its hypocrisy than the Decem-
virate, with Robespierre in the fury of open carnage—
was the ruin of the church,"

This sentence is written with an eye to a
benefice. We trace the inspiration in every
word. " Reminiscences of Napoleon at St.
Helena" is the production of a lady. It is
penned in a charming spirit of naivete. Our
readers will, no doubt, thank us for the follow-
ing anecdotes :

" B inaparte was a little man, stout and corpulent, of a
dark olive complexion, fine features, eyes of a light bluish
-a not speaking or animated, of an abstracted,
titavy .i.ountenance. But when lighted up and interested,
his expr=•sioa was very fine, and the benevolence of his
smile I never saw surpassed. He was particularly vain of
a small and beautiful hand, and handsome little feet; as
vain ❑early (I dare say) as having conquered half the
universe. Bonaparte laid a great stress on the beauty of
hands in ladies, and frequently inquired of me, during
our residence in St. Helena, respecting the hands of the
ladies be had not seen; and seemed to think a pretty and
delicate hand the ne plus ultra of beauty and gentility.
" Napoleon was dressed, on the day of my first intro-
duction to him, in a green coat, silk stockings, small shoes,
large square go'd buckles, and a cocked hat, with a ribbon
of some order, seen through the button-hole of his coat.
" The two young ladies, who were respectively about
thirteen and fifteen years of age, were quite familiar with
the Ex-Emperor, ran playfully towards him, dragging
me forward by the hand, and saying to him, This lady is
the mother of the little girl who pleased you the other day
by singing Italian canzonets.'
" Upon this he made me a bow, which I returned by
a low and reverential curtsy, feeling, at the same time, a
little confu,ed at this sudden and unceremonious intro-
duction.

" Mtdame,' said he, you have a sprightly little
daughter ; where did she learn to sing Italian songs?'
" On my replying that I bad taught her rayfelf, he
said ' Bon.' He then asked me what countrywoman I
was? ' Where were you educated?' In
London,' What ship did you come out in to St. Helena ?
What regiment is your husband in ? And what rank has
he in the army?' And a variety of like questions, as
quick as possible, did Bonaparte make to me, and all in
align. I then ventured to request he would speak to
me in French, as I was more conversant wi,h that lan-
guage than with Italian, All this time the two young
ladies and my little daughter were running to and fru
around us, and chattering to the Great Hero, who seemed
to delight much in their lively and unsophisticWed man-
ners. After walking some time in the garden, Bona-
parte requested me to go into the house at the Briers,
where a pianoforte stood open, to sing some Italian songs.
Accordingly we all entered the drawing_room, which was
on the ground floor, when my playful little daughter,
perceiving me aeitated and trembling at the idea of sing-
ing before so great a personage, whispered to me—' Why
are you so much afraid, dear mamma? He is only a man.'"
• • • • • •

" Behold me now seated at the pianoforte, with the
conqueror of the world standing behind my chair. What
an indefinable, indescribable sensation ! I forgot my
fears in my astonishment, and got through the song of
Ah the nel Petto' tolerably well. Bien,' cried Bona-
parte ; ' (.7est de Pasiello,' which showed he was well
acquainted with the style of the composers. ' sail
he, ' in my youth I could also perform a little on the
pianoforte.' He then ran over the keys of the instru-
ment in tolerable style, to show that he was not boasting
of what be could not perform."

Napoleon's pride in his " small and beautiful
hand," is as amusing a trait of character as
Caesar's lamentations over his bald head. Ima-
gine the same fingers that grasped the foremost
broad sword at the bridge of Lodi, running over
the keys of the piano in a lady's drawing-room I
Hercules handling the distaff was scarcely a more
incongruous sight. " Voyage from Leghorn to
Cephalonia, with Lord Byron," gives us an
insight into some of the poet's personal peculi-
arities. By Mr. Browne's account, he must
have been a prodigious dandy, yet, nevertheless,
he could quaff his grog with all the gusto of a
Jack tar. " Hints to the Aristocracy" is a
wanly, seasonable attack on the system of ex-
elusiveness so much in favour among some of the
higher classes. The author shows a far-sighted
sagacity in deeming the subject one of paramount
importance. If ever our privileged Orders fall,
it will be from their offensive assumption of su-
periority over the unprivileged. They draw lines
of circumvallation around them, which none but
pimps or parasites can enter. If a man of ge-
nius be now and then permitted to pass, it is
only by clothing himself in the favouring dis-
guise of sycophancy. This is no slight or su-
perficial error. It is a grave, deliberate affront
to the national intelligence and respectability,
and sinks deep into the national heart. The
" Corinthian Capital of Polished Society"
to quote Burke's pretty compliment to our
nobility, may just now pride itself on its
smoothness and polish and solidity, but what
will become of it, when the pillars on which
it rests are knocked from under it ? Let the
middle and lower classes but once separate
themselves from the higher—become convinced
that there is no bond of sympathy between them,
and down goes the Patrician order, " never to
rise again." There is no Resurrection for de-
unct aristocracy. " The Baronet's Bride" is a
tale of infinite power, and lays a giant's grasp on

the attention. A world of pains has been
bestowed on it ; yet, though elaborate, it is most
successfully executed. No man handles his
tools in a more workmanlike fashion than Mr.
Warren. He gives us nothing but common-
places, whether of incident, character, or descrip-
tion ; yet they startle the reader just as if they
were novelties. The only fresh bit of description
in the whole tale is the following :
" It was a soft September evening, and the country
round about seemed every where bronzed with the touch
of autumn."

The word " bronzed" is here full of meaning,
imparting life and character to the landscape.
" Hindoo Drama" is a curious and edifying
essay. The extracts given are numerous ; and
among them is one descriptive of the horrors of
indigence, whence it would seem that a poor
man is as much despised and shunned on the
banks of the Ganges, as on those of the Thames.
But thus it is, all the world over. There is no
crime so slowly forgiven, so tenaciously remem-
bered, as poverty. It sticks to a man's character
like a burr.
" Wealth makes the man, and want of it the fellow,
The rest is all but leather and prunella."