The Sun.
London, England, 1856-09-11 00:00:00

ERZEROUM, Aua. 16.
On the Gth inst. the fortress of Kars was re-
stored by the Russians to the Turks, and, as this
event derives special interest and importance from
being the closing scene of the war, some account of
it beyond the dry official report will perhaps be ac-
ceptable to the public.
I should observe that the Gth bad been fixed for
the occasion some time previously at a personal
conferono between the Mushir Ismail Pasha and
Colonel Lorismelikoff, Governor and Commandant.
of Kars, who to do the greater honour to his late
enemy repaired himself with a brilliant staff to
Erzeroum for the purpose, whence he returned to
Kars on the 2:1 inst._ _

On the 3d ho was followed by three British
officers—viz., Major Peel, Major Fraser, and Mr.
Evans, 9th Lancers, who came as the representa-
tives of the country and army to which they be-
low!. It was my good fortune to bejoinedwith
them in this interesting duty, and, having taken
an active part with them in the whole proceeding,
all the particulars here narrated came within range
of my own observation.
On reporting our arrival to the Governor, every
attention was immediately shown that respect and
hospitality could suggeSt ; General Boutilotf in-
iisted upon giving up his room for our accommo-
dation ; we were pressingly invited to dine with
the Goversor every day during our stay ;
were placed at our disposal, and a Cosael:- e;,:cort
told off to attend upon us.
These civilities, which policy, if not a better mo-
tive, would have dictated, were perhaps, in some
measure intended to repay the friendly reception
which Lorismelikolf andsuite experienced from the
officers of the British staff on the OCCASiOD of his re:
cent visit to Erzerodm. But I would not attach,
much value to this remark, for since the establish
rent of peace the meeting of British and Russia 11
officers in these parts has in every instance been
characterised by feelings worthy of gallant gentle-
men and soldiers.
On the 4th we visited the scene of the bloody
fight of the 29th of Sept., being accompanied by a
Cossack officer, who was engaged in that memor-
able struggle. His account of the whole affair was
clear and circumstantial ; lie related every inci-
dent, and pointed out every spot of special inte-
rest ; and it was impossible not to admire the com-
posure—d_ may say the stoicism—with which he
thus detailed for our information the particulars
of as signal a defeat as his country-men sustained
throughout the war.
The ridiculous will always tread upon the sub-
lime ; the absurd will not be scared even from a
battle-field. Here it attached itself to the person
of one of our party—a robust John Bull, who, got
up in his best staff uniform, was obliged by some
whimsical chance to ride in a Cossack saddle on a

litle ragged restiff horse ; nothing but his innate
horsemanship enabled him to hold on with his knees
doubled up at angle of 45 de,r. Such an exhibition
would prove irresistible at Astley's, still it failed to
disturb the gravity of our solemn Mentor.
On the sth we dined at the Russian camp with
Gen. Kruloff, who invited a large party of his
friends to meet us ; toasts were the order of the
day, and. Gen. Williams's health was drunk three
times three with enthusiastic cheers, in which the
troops, who had gathered in force round the tent,
joined to the full stretch of their voices.
After dinner, which was over at three o'clock,
there was a parade for all hands. We had an op-
portunity of witnessing some beautiful Cossack
drill, and then went down the ranks of the infantry. '
In stature the men were below the average height,
but they were well appointed and drilled. The
Russian camp, .I should observe, is about four
miles from Kars, on the road to Gumri, and com-
prises about 5,000 men all all arms.'
At an early hour on the 6th we started with our
Cossack escort to meet the Turkish troops, who
were marching in under the command of Hus-
sein. Pasha. They consisted of two battalions
of infantry, two companies of Chasseurs, one
troop of Lancers, and two guns—the force which,
until further orders, is to constitute the gar-
tison of Kars, joining them a few miles from the
town, we accompanied them for the remainder of
their march in, and tell it not in Gad), on
the way Hussein Pasha was glad t) learn
a few hints as to the manner in which lie was to
act his part. Approaching the fortress we Lund
the Russian infantry, under Lorismelikoff,' formed
in line to receive us, outside the works, on the
Erzeroum-road. At the distance of about 10 yards
from them the Turkish column halted, and de-
ployed into line, parallel to and facing the Russians.
General salutes were exchanged, after which the
lines broke into contiguous columns of sections,
and marched side by side into the fortress. The
Turkish flag was hoisted on the citadel, salutes
were fired, the Russian guard and sentries were
relieved by Turks, and the old fortress was once
more in possession of its former owners. There was
no cheering, no expression of popular feeling ; but
the whole affair was as inanimate and formal as can
well be conceived.
During the short time the Russian and Turkish
troops were drawn up face to face we were struck
with the superibr personnel of the latter ; in every
other respect the advantage was with the former.
At 9 a.m. on the following morning the Mushir
arrived ; either personal feeling or national eti-
quette forbade his entering the fortress until it had
been evacuated by the Russians ; lie rode without
any display into the town, and retired at once to
the quarters which had been provided for his re-
ception. We went out several miles to meet him,
accompanied by our band of faithful Cossacks, who,
plain as they were in dress and appointments, con-
trasted most favourably as soldiers with the gaudy
troop of Baski-Bazonkm that escorted hisExcelleucy.
We all met by appointment, en grande tenue, at
three o'clock, the Mushir accompanied by a host of
Turkish officers, and Lorismelikoff with all his
staff, each party being attended by a mounted
escort. Filing through the narrow streets, we pro-
ceeded to the Russian camp, where a grand review
had been ordered in honour of the Mushir, On
clearing the heights of Karadagh we were met by
General Kruloff and staff. Between the two chiefs
there was no lack of outward cordiality, and on
taking their place in front they headed the pro-
cession the rest of the way.
All along the road the Cossacks and Bashi-Ba-
zouks kept up a constant succession of mock skir-
mishes and, single combats, ,in which each party
made the best display of his peculiar tactics. The
superior adroitness of the Cossack was, however,
conspicuous, both in horsemanship and the use of
his weapons. Some of their feats were astonishing.
Just fancy a man, when closely pursued by his
adversary, at full speed, disappearing over his
horse's side, and, holding on by the heel, leaving
nothing but the sole of a buskin as a mark 1 His
wily little horse, thoroughly trained to all those
manoeuvres, or rather seeming to exercise an inde-
pendent intelligence of its own, carries him safely
out of harm's way, and soon after he reappears on
the offensive when and where least expected.
These skirmishes threatening more than once to
exceed the limits of mere display, it was deemed
advisable to recall the parties to the ranks.
An hour's riding brought us to the camp where
we found the whole Russian force paraded in
marching order. The Mushir was received with a
general salute and rounds of cheers (not exactly
the British cheer), after which, breaking into open
columns, the troops marched past—the infantry in;
slow time, the Cossacks at the gallop. And here
again these astonishing horsemen treated us tc
some specimens of their India-rubber performances.
While at full speed some would spring from the
stirrups to a standing position in the saddle-tree,
others would bend down out of sight ; they writhed
and twisted about, backwards, forwards, and side-
ways, after a fashion that, I think, would astonish
your stately giant at the Horse Guards, while, at
the same time, they rent the air with yells and
screams of most unearthly discoid. May the for-
tune of war defend me from such enemies
The review over, we proceeded to the tent of
General Kruloff, where a magnificent banquet was
ready spread, and we spent the remainder of the
day and a great part of the night too in a course of
feasting and drinking which, perhaps, it would be
as well not to describe too minutely. It was a day
of festivity for all. As long as there was light the
soldiers engaged in coarse comedies, one personat-
ing to admiration the character of a lady of the
camp. When darkness set in these amusements
wore succeeded by fireworks.
Within the tent all
wasgood fellowship. Cham-
pagne flowed without stint. Healths were drunk
with uproarious applause, the Sultan, our Queen,
Napoleon, the Emperor, Mouraveiff, Williams,
&c. ; and at last the fraternisation was carried to
such a degree of warmth that it could be expressed
only by embraces. My English friends were the
special objects of these caresses ; and it was amus-
ing to witness the fervour with which these men of
broad shoulders and bearded faces were hugged
and kissed by our loving friends.
We slept that night at the camp, in the tout of
a general officer which bad been kindly vacated for