The Sun.
London, England, 1856-09-12 00:00:00

EXPLORATION OF ISTHMUS OF DARIEN.

December 18th, 1853, 1 p.m.—Left the ship in me-
dical charge of the expedition sent to explore the Isth-
mus of Darien, and report on the practicability of the
projected ship canal from the janction of the rivers
Savana and La Villa, on the Pacific, in a N. N. easterly
direction, to Port Escaces, on the Atlantic side. Tun
following are the names of the officers and crew that
accompanied the expedition :—C.mitnander J. C. Pre-
vost, Lieutenants Moore and Gordon, Mr. Inskip, mas-
ter; assistant-surgeon Dr. Ross ; Mr. Hornhy, midship-
ma❑ ; Wm. Rawlins, captain of forecastle ; R. Whit
bread, quartermaster ; J. Curtis, J. Fink, H. Windsor,
H. Robins, H. Jones, J. Dick, W. Beheuna, J. Tower,
J. Cullen, and R. Blake, able-bodied seamen ; W. Rowe,
W. Richards, and J. Callahan, ordinary seamen ; J.
Hyde, J. Perkins, G. Julier, J. Orrell, W. Barnes, and
J. Fisk, privates of the Royal Marine Artillery, with
seven New Granadian guides.
January 7, 1854.—Returned to the ship with the ex-
ploring party. The following is a brief account of our
journey across the Isthmus and back :—Leaving the
vessel in Darien harbour we ascended the Savana a dis-
tance of 21 miles in the cutter and first gig, the Grana-
diens occupying two canoes. This river has its source
in the Isthmus from the confluenee of a number of small
streams, and, after a comparatively straight course of
from 55 to 30 miles in a S.S.E. direction, empties itself
into Darien Harbour, in the Gulf of San Miguel.
For the first six or eight miles ascending from its !
mouth the banks are low, swampy, and covered with
mangrove bushes, which extend for some distance in-
land, until the ground, beginning to rise, terminates on
the right bank in a range of hills from two to three hun
dred feet high, running nearly parallel to the river. The
swampy mangrove on the left bank runs farther inland,
is more thickly wooded, and finally ends in irregular and
solitary hills of from one to two hundred feet in height.
As far up as the distance spoken of, the river, from
mile in width, narrows to half a mile, and has a vari-
able depth of 1i to 5 fathoms, the deepest water being
in mid-channel. This part of its course is nearly direct,
and there are no obstructions. A little beyond, how-
ever, the stream widens and is studded with numerous
!ittle islands, through which there is a passage with
5 fathoms water. For the next 13 miles it becomes more
tortuous, narrows considerably, the banks become more
solid, the mangrove is lost, and forest trees grow close
to the water's edge, it being then only from 20 to 30
yards wide.

Its tributaries are the Iglesias and Lara, opening
on the left bank, the former near its mouth, and the
latter nearly 18 miles above, and the La Villa on its
right bank, about three miles above the Lara. The
two first mentioned are large streams, but the latter is
small.

At sunset we encamped on the right bank a little
above La Villa, and built a rancho, or hut, of branches
of trees covered over with palm leaves, for protection
from the night dew.
At tit a.m., of the 20th, we again resumed our journey
in the boats, and, about two miles further on, coming
to a place a little below tidal influence, with high preci-
pitous banks on each side, the whole party landed, it
being the intention to leave a depot of provisions and
ammunition. The boats were secured, and their con-
tents landed and placed under a canvass tent brought
for the purpose. A permanent and comfortable rancho
was also built for 10 men and an officer, who were to be
left here in charge, while the main body prosecuted their
researches inland. Every night at sunset we encamped,
building our rancho, when the locality was a matter of
choice, on a rising as near as possible to a stream.
These ranchos were designated by numbers from 1 to
12 inclusive, commencing with the depot.
Dec. 20. At 2 p.m., all preparations being made, the
party started. It may be here stated that the course
taken was compass N.N.E., from which, during the
whole journey, no obstruction in the shape of
rising ground, stream, or swamp, was allowed to deviate
us. Nearly the whole of our route lay through a dense
forest of immense trees, the spaces between the trunks
of which were filled with undergrowth of creepers of
various kinds, chiefly what is termed bushropes, varying
in size from half an inch to three inches in circumference,
and very tough. Through these it was necessary to cut
our way with machetes or cutlasses, and so dense and
difficult of penetration is this forest that four men as
pioneers, cutting from 8 a.m. till 5 p.m., could only get
over a distance of from three to four miles. The first
19 miles lay through an undulating country, with fre-
quent elevations and depressions, rendering any correct
estimate of their height above the level of the sea diffi-
cult. It is supposed, however, that the highest of these
did not exceed fifty or sixty feet. In this part of the
journey numerous streams, the beds of which were
formed of clay, were crossed, running in various direc-
tions towards the Pacific, and also two swamps, in one
of which the water lay stagnant from two to three feet
deep, and extended along our course a distance of at
least one mile, and on either side as far as the eye could
penetrate, which here was some distance, the vegetation
being scanty.
On the aist, about noon, we arrived at a river with
high banks on each side, about GO or 70 feet wide, run-
ning in a southerly direction, and having on its left bank
Indian plantain patches.
This was evidently the Chuquanaqua, which hitherto
had been laid down in all the charts as taking its origin
much to the southward of where we now were. We
hero formed our 10th encampment. Next day, Jan. 1,
1854, a party of the expedition crossed and returned at
night with intelligence of having seen the sea—the At-
lantic—from the top of a tree on a high hill about five
miles distant, the view being in a N.E. direction, and
carried through a gorge. At the same time they brought
a very discouraging account as to the nature of the
country, which was broken into a series of high hills by
deep and intricate ravines, through which numerous
and rapid mountain torrents coursed, rendering travel-
ling difficult.
Hitherto our provisions had been carried by five men
in large bags and baskets. It being impossible to con
tinue this mode of progression on the left side of the
river, it was decided that each officer and man should
take four days' provisions, and that the remainder
should be left at our rancho on the right bank of the
river in charge of a guard of two seamen and two Ma-
rine Artillerymen, who were chosen by lot.
This fell upon Henry Windsor, aged 25, Henry Robins,
aged 21, A.B.s, Thomas Hyde, 22, and James Perkins,
31, R.M.A. On leaving the boats my instruments and
pocket case, with bandages, lint, tourniquet, and inedi•
tine had been carried in a tin box. Finding that four
days' provisions, arms, ammunition, and blanket were
too much to carry under a tropical sun, I took from the
box what I considered necessary for immediate use on
emergency, and left the remainder with the guard.
On the morning of the 2d January we forded the river,
which was then only from 1 to 3 feet deep, but which,
in the rainy season, from evidences around our encamp-
ment, must overflow its banks and be then 30 feet deep.
Still keeping the same course we progressed towards the
Atlantic. By the evening of the 3d, after crossing seve-
ral mountains, varying from 300 to 400 feet high, and
travelling some distance in the bed of a river from two
to three feet deep, and whose course lay in our route,
we arrived at an elevation of 1,200 to 1,300 feet, in fact,
the summit of the Cordillera range.
From this point of view we overlooked a deep and
wide valley, densely wooded and running in an ea4erly
direction. It was supposed that it was through this
valley the Atlantic had been seen from the tree. The
hills on the northern side of this terminated in a broad
and well-defined cliff, beyond which it was surmised was
the sea. We had traversed 26i miles of measured ground
from the place where we left the boats, three miles above
La Villa, which, allowing 3i miles for elevations and
depressions, would give twenty-three miles in a straight
direction, and as none of the maps make the isthmus
more, from the latter place, than 23 or 24 miles wide,
we concluded that the ocean was close to this bluff. It
was still one day's journey distant, but our provisions
getting short it was deemed advisable to retrace our
steps, which we commenced doing on the morning of
the 4th inst. On our way back we explored, for some
distance, a mountain torrent which we at one time
thought emptied itself into the Atlantic, but its course
and direction soon led us to believe it was the commence-
ment of the Chuquanaqua.
A little before noon of the sth we arrived at encamp.
int nt No. 10, and found the guard gone and the rancho
cleared of its contents. Presuming that the men had
gone on to No. 9 to avoid the annoyance of sand flies,
or that they had been ordered to return by the Indians,
who, from the vicinity of plantations, we knew could not
live far distant, although we bad as yet seen none of
them, we prepared, with some degree of caution, to fol-
low them. Between Nos. 10 and 9 we found a heap of
bread lying in the middle of the path, but the latter
rancho was also uninhabited, although it had, appa-
rently, remained undisturbed. On arriving at the edge
of the swamp before spoken of as being covered with
stagnant water, we observed numerous and recently
traced footprints returning to the Chuquanaqua.
These, from certain indications, the Granadians pro-
nounced to be from Indian feet. About a mile from
No. 8, and on the western side of the camp, we suddenly
came on the murdered remains of three of our former
comrades, all lying obliquely across the road, and pierced
with seversal gunshot wounds, which must have caused
almost instantaneous death. They had evidently, in their
retreat, with heavy burthens of provisions ou their
hacks, which still rernalued there, been shut from the
141 side of the path from behind an immense guipo tree,
the spaces between whose spreading roots could have
concealed from view a number of men. All three
were lying on their right sides. Windsor was
shot through the pelvis and lower part of the spine,
Hyde through the left side of the head, and Perkins
through the head and throat. Everything left behind
us, except provisions, were taken by the murderers.
From the state of decomposition in which the bodies
were, judged they must have been dead 48 hours.
Nothing could be soon of the remaining man Robins,
and it is presumed he was either shot with the others,

and escaped farther into the bush, where he died, or wag
despatched by the ravages, or else that he is retained to
live a miserable prisoner in their hands. Fearing we
might now be surrounded by savages, and every mo-
ment expecting a volley from hidden enemies, we could
not remain to afford Cliri,tian burial to our lamented
comrades, however anxious to do so, and we continued
our journey till dark, passing ranchos Nos. 3,7, and 6,
and sleeping at No. 5. By daybreak next morning, 6th
Jan., we again commenced our journey, and at 11 a.m.
arrived at No. 1, where we fount! the party we left be-
hind all well. At 10 p.m., the tic:6 serving, we started
for the trip, and arrived on board early this morning,
Jan. 7.

Intermittent fever is endemic amongst the negroes,
and New Granadians inhabiting the villages in and
around Darien Harbour, so that it was fully expected
that some of us would, ere now, have suffered from this
complaint. The incubative period of the disease may not
vet be over, but, as yet, no one has suffered from the Jour
ney, All were exposed to more than ordinary exertion and
consequent fat,gue in carryinr, heavy burthens and
assisting to clear the dense brushwood., so as to make
a recognis.able path for our return, and also for others to
traverse after us, should this portion of the Isthmus
be subjected to a regular survey. At the same time we
were but scantily fed, chiefly on salt provisions, while at
night we had to sleep, in open ranchos, exposed to the
night air, with, frequently, the lower parts of the body
wet from the numerous streams we had to cross. It bad
been asserted that this portion of file Isthmus was very
insalubrious, but from the foregoing facts, and from our
being exposed to malarious influence in crossing the
marshes before mentioned, it may reasonably be con-
chided that, at this season of the year, when the eva-
poration from decaying vegetable mat ter following the
rainy season has ceased, and dry went her fairly set in,
this portion of the Isthmus is healthy to Europeans. At
the same time our not having suffered from fever is
greatly to be attributed to our not having been exposed
to tl.e rays of the sun (the foliage of the trees having
afforded us a grateful shade), and to the comparative
coolness of the atmosphere, which, judging from the feel-
ings, was never above 80 deg. Fahrenheit, and then
rendered refreshing by a constant northerly breeze, but
mainly to the dryness of the ground over which we
passed, and its freedom, except in two places, from
marsh or swamp.

- -
THE HIGHLAND BRIGADE OF THE
CRIMEAN ARAIE

Sir Charles Forbes, on behalf of the Highland Society
of London, presents his compliments t o the editor of The
Sun, and would feel grea)7 obliged bv hie having the
goodness to give insertion his valuable journal to the
accompanying application to, ;Ind the answer from, the
Horse Guards.
Broomwood, Sept. 11.

" 18, Parliament-street, Sept. 2.
" Sir,—l ant directed by the Committee o f Maoage-
ment of the Highland Society of London, of whim) so-
ciety the Prince Consort is chief, and your Royal itiCh'
ness a member, to submit the respectful duty of -t."
committee to your Royal Highness, and to request tfi.e
favour of your Royal Highness's having the kindness to
grant permission to the Crimean soldiers of the High-
land Brigade, quartered at present at Dover, to partake
of a dinner to be prepared for them at the Royal Surrey
Gardens on the same plan, and under the same regula
tions, as that given to the Guards.
"The Highland Society of London is not only most
anxious to make this small acknowledgment of Om high
sense its members entertain of the services of their brave
countrymen, but the directors of the society have been
joined in this wish by maoy noblemen and gentlemen
residing in the metropolis, and which they have 33
doubt woulel afford great gratification to the inhabitante
of London as well as to the count..^Y at large.
" The dinner to the Guards having given so much satis-
faction, and several regiments of the Crimean army have
ing been welcomed and entertained in. the provinces, the
circumstance of the Highland Brigade being at present
so near town, and that these three regiments (42d, 79th,
and 93d) might never again be together it; our neigh-
bourhood, suggested that a similar complime.nt should
be paid to this portion of the army, which served in the
same division, and fought side by side with the Guards'
under the command of your Royal Highness.
" In the event of your Royal Highness being pleasea
to grant, what may be termed a single holiday, to theses
distinguished troops, the Highland Society would under-
take to make arrangements for conveying the Crimean
medal men and their officers by railway to London and
back the same day, and to defray all the expenses attend-
ing the trip, conforming in all respects to such regolo
tions as may be made at the Horse Guards for their
guidance.
" I have the honour to be, Sir,
"Your Royal Highness's most obedient
and very faithful servant,
" GEO. BAIN, Honorary Secretary to
the Highland Society of London.-
" His Royal Highness the Duke of Cambridge,
K.G., General Commanding-in-Chief, &c."

" Horse Guards, Sept. S.
" Sir,—l am commanded by the General Command'
ing•in•Chief to acknowledge the receipt of your letter of
the 2d inst., requesting, on the part of the Committee of
Management of the Highland Society of London, that
his Royal Highness would grant permission to the
Crimean soldiers of the Highland Brigade quartered At
Dover to partake of a dinner, to be prepared for them at
the Royal Surrey Gardens on the plan and under the'
same regulations as that given to the Guards, and stating
that the Highland Society would make arrangements for
the conveyance of these soldiers and their officers by
railway to London and back again.
"His Royal Highness directs me, in reply, to request
that you will be good enough to assure the gentlemen
of
this the Hig d
of at
Society that he most highly appreciates
eir kind feeling wardstthese national
regiments, but to state that, although there can be no
objection to the troops being entertained in this manner
in the various garrisons in which they are quartered, yet
the moving them from their quarters to London for such
a purpose must be attended with so much inconvenience
that his Royal Mighness must express his regret that he
is obliged to decline acceding to an application whi°ll,
has been prompted by so gratifying a feeling on the Par"
of the society.—l have the honour to be, sir, your most
obedient servant, " C. YOWEE.
" George Bain, Esq., &c."