The Sun.
London, England, 1856-09-23 00:00:00

r

LONDON, TUESDAY EVENING, SEPTEMBER 23, 1856.

THE DARIEN EXPEDITION.

(From Dr. Ross's Journal, March 17, 1554.)

Left the ship at 1 p.m. in medical charge of an expedition
detached to ascend the River Chuquanaqua. The following
are the names of the individuals engaged in this service :
Mr, W. C. Forsyth, senior lieutenant ; Mr. Henry Hills,
acting paymaster (volunteer) ; Dr. Wm. Ross, assistant-
surgeon ; Mr. G. Parsons, gunner; Wm. Polling, captain
of the forecastle; Wm. Ashcroft, Wm. Jeffery, Wm.
Dunsford, Thomas Aikenhead, Win. Chandler, Wm.
Hockey, R. Blake, Wl2O. Behema, R. Kingswell, John
Walsh, John Tower, and Gallagher, able seamen, with G.
hiller, T. Orral, R.M.A.
The object of this expedition is to search for a missing
party of 27 officers and men who left the United States ship
Cyane, in Port Escoces, Caledonia Bay, Atlantic, on the
19th of January last, with the intention of exploring the
isthmus in a south-westerly direction to Darie❑ harbour.
They have not since been heard of, but are said to have been
traced to the left bank of the Chuquanaqua by Indians,
whe carried the intelligence to Port Escoces. It is pre-
sumed that, mistaking this river for the Savanna, they
are now wandering on its banks in a state of starvation,
as it is known they only took eight days' provision with
them; or that they have been destroyed by the same
hostile Indians who waylaid and murdered our own
men. The former supposition is borne out with some
degree of probability by the fact, that the course of
the latter river is only 20 miles from the former, where
it is a considerable stream ; and near which, coming
from the Atlantic, it is likely they would strike it ;
and that the Chuquanaqua, after a very winding course
along the centre of the isthmus, it is said of above
150 miles, terminates in the Tuyra, which empties itself
into Darien harbour within a mile of the mouth of the Sa,-
vane. As remarked on the 7th Jan., in the description of_
this river, it opens into Darien harbour "after nearly a
straight course of between 25 and 30 miles. The latter
supposition is not probable, as the party was well armed,
Ind not likely, from what is known of Indian character, to
have been faced by treble their number of imperfectly
armed savages. The American exploring party had for
its object the isthmus, and reporting to Government as to
the possibility of cutting a ship canal from sea to sea. The
searching expedition returned at 1 a.m. of the 30th March,
after the absence of a fortnight. The following is an account
of our proceedings, taken from a daily journal kept by me :
" We left the ship at anchor in Darien harbour, and em-
barking in one of the paddlebox-boats, we took advantage
of the flood tide, and ascended the river Tuyra, a distance
of about 20 miles, anchoring, when the ebb commenced, at
8 a.m. By noon the tide turned, and again getting under
.ay, we arrived at the village of Yavisa at 9 p.m. ; this
place is 45 miles from Darien harbour, and is spoken of as
the capital of the Isthmus of Darien ; it is simply a collet-
' tion of bamboo houses or huts covered with palm leaves,
irregularly arranged, or rather strewed, about a level piece
of ground on the right bank of the river. Its population
consists of 250 or 300 mulattoes, whose language is broken
. Spanish, and who are presided over by an official termed
Jefe Politico,' appointed by the New Granadian Govern-
ment, which claims jurisdiction over this part of the Ame-
rican continent. These people obtain a miserable liveli-
hood, partly by hunting and cultivating maize and plan-
! tains ; in winter they saw up trees, the growth of the neigh-
bouring forest, which they transport to Panama in large
canoes in the shape of planks, and there dispose of them
for spirits, clothing, &c. At its mouth the Tuyra is about
one and a half or two miles wide, but at Chapigana,
village on its left bank, eight miles up, it narrows to less
than one mile, and gradually contracting at Yavisa, it a
only 40 yards wide; it has a depth of from three to four
fathoms, which it carries a little above Chapigana ; b ecom-
ing shallower at the place where we anchored, it expands
into a wide bay, in which are numerous sand and mud
banks, rendering navigation rather difficult, except at high
or low water, the former carrying you over all these impe-
diments, and the latter rendering them visible. The deepest
part here is close to the eight bank. The mangrove is not
so abundant on this river as on the Savannah. It is more
common for a distance of 7 or 8 miles above Chapigana
than below it. This river extends itself inland on both
sides into several creeks, which, in one or two places, spread
out and have the appearance of lakes. The only tributary
of any consequence is the Alolineca, which joins it on its
left bank, about midway between Chapigana and Yavisa.
The water here is perfectly fresh, and of a delicious, s weet,
and pleasant flavour.

"The Tuyra has a very varied course ; ascending from
Darien harbour to Chapigana, it is easterly ; it then goe
for 8 miles nearly due south, and suddenly bends, for a
short distance, at right angles to the eastward ; it now
takes a south-easterly direction for about 5 or 6 miles ; for
the 10 succeeding miles it goes nearly north ; and finally
bending and turning on itself for almost 6 miles it arrives
at Yavisa. Opposite this village is thejunction of the Chu-
quanaqua and Yavisa rivers. At Yavisa we obtained six
canoes and 11 natives to assist in navigating them, and at
10 a.m. of the 18th, we started in the canoes, being taken
in tow by the paddle-box boat ; assisted by the flood, we
rapidly ascended the Chugunaqua, anchoring at sunset in
mid-channel, and spending the night in the boat. We here
lad a narrow escape from destruction, for about midnight
an immense forest tree, growing close to the water's edge,
the roots of which had been denuded by the carrentof sur-
rounding earth, became loosened and fell with a tremen-
dous crash into the water, just clearing by a foot or two
our boat, and in its fall cutting off the stern of ono of our
canoes, which fortunately had been moored alongside, but
being larger than the boat, projected beyonditastern. This
was a salutary caution, and in future, when selecting our
bivouac on shore, we did not neglect to examine as to the
stability of the adjacent trees. At 6 o'clock on the morn-
ing of the 19th we again commenced our journey, anchor-
ing at noon close to the first rapids, which aro distant above
Yavisa about 18 miles. From the latter place to these the
river carries a pretty uniform depth of three fathoms, ave-
rage 70 feet wide, and has nearly a direct course stretch-
ing towards the N.N.W. It now became necessary to take
to the canoes, not so much from the general shallowness of
the water as from the commencement of the rapids and the
numerous snags and trees which obstructed our passage.
The boat we left at 2 p.m. of the 19th, the following indi-
viduals remaining in charge, with directions to await our
return—viz., Mr. Parsons, gunner; Jeffery, Dunsford,
Aikinhead, Hockin, Walsh, and Gallagher, seamen ; and,
accompanied by the blacks, we commenced the second part
of our journey. After much labour and difficulty we were
only able to accomplish a distance of about three miles,
owing to the rapidity of the current, before sunset. We
moored the canoes to branches of trees, and, landing, pre-
pared our evening meal, retiring to rest on a dry and ele-
vated mud-bank, without any protection from the night
dew, a blanket excepted. The remainder of our journey
up may be briefly condensed by stating that during the
next four clays we ascended the river a distance of 67 miles
that it had a most tortuous course, which reaches approach-
ing almost to every point in the compass, bat in the mean
taking a north-north-westerly direction--that its banks
wore wooded by forest trees and beautiful flowering plants
close to the water's edge, among which were conspicuous
palm, mahogany, caoulchoue, and cedar trees, with con-
volvulus in abundance—that it had in general high banks,
bearing evidence of having been recently subjected to the
torrent of the river in a swollen condition, and that it re-
ceived numerous and considerable tributaries, the most
important of which, rising in the Cordilleras, opened from
its left bank.

"In this period we were all exposed to the most fatigu-
ing exertions—•in paddling the canoes in deep water, pul-
ling them over shallows, and dragging them over trees ;
besides, in one or two instances, whore fallen trees stretched
from bank to bank, digging a canal around their roots. ,
Meanwhile, we were day by day exposed to the intense heat
of a vertical sun, and at night to heavy dews and rain,
which completely saturated our blankets, and added to the
annoyance of millions of the most voracious mosquitos I
ever met with. This river abounds in alligators ; but, ex-
cept in particular localities, fish are rare. The upper part
of the Chuquanaqms and its tributaries are inhabited dur-
ing the dry season by the Indians, who come from the
more interior parts of the country to fish on its banks.
We also observed numerous evidences, along the banks of
their having lately visited these places, in deserted ranchos,
and frameworks for drying fish. These savages are a war-
like race, well armed, and have never yet been conquered,
either by the old Spaniards or their descendants, although
their territory is nominally under the sway of the Grana-
diens. To the Spaniards, as well as the blacks, they have
an inveterate hatred, from remembrance of former wrongs.
They are said invariably to kill the latter when found
within their territory ; this was lately carried out in the
case of five unfortunate negroes who not long ago strayed
too far into the wood; they wore seised by the Indians,
killed, and, some say, eaten. An ancient law exists among
them denouncing death upon all white men found without
permission in their dominions; this was but too rigorously
enforced in the case of our own men. At 5 p.m. of the
23d we were. rejoiced by the cry of smoke being seen
ahead; several muskets were fired, and a cheer given;
these were answered, the latter but faintly, from the right
bank of the river, a little in advance. Presently several
people were seen emerging from the woods, and crawling
down the steep bank. They proved to be of the lost party,
and a more wretched set of human beings were never be-

held ; so emaciated were they that, clothed in their rags,
they appeared like spectres ; some had retained their arms
and blankets, while others, scarcely able to drag along their
own bodies, had thrown theirs away. Our first surmise
attributing to them their having mistaken the Chuqua-
naque, for the Savana proved to be but too well founded.
They had left the Cyane, 27 in number, on the 19th of
January, with eight days' provisions ; these were partly
destroyed by their having baen upset in the surf in land-
ing, They ascended the Caledonia river for some distance

in search of a gap in the Oozed floras, said to exist in that
neighbourhood, but, failing to find out this, crossed the
summit of the range at a supposed elevation of 1,3'10 feet.
On the third day out two officers and three men strayed
• from the party and lost themselves ; they were, however,
fortunate enough to reach the ship in safety. This intelli-
gence wo received before leaving Panama. The main body,
under Lieutenant Strain, continued its course to the Paci-
fic, being guided by natives engaged from Port Escoces for
the purpose, down a stream on which was an Indian vil-
lage in flames,* to the Chuquanaqua, which they were in-
formed was the Savana. They struck the river on the 2Sth
January, and when they had finished the last of their pro-
visions. Knowing that the Savana gained the sea after a
course of 25 miles, and calculating to arrive at Darien
harbour at furthest in three or four days, during which
they imagined they could find sufficient sustenance on its
banks, they determined on prosecuting their journey, al-
though now deserted by their guides. They continued
following the river, which they crossed, suffering much
from want of food and lacerated feet, until the 13th of
February, when the marches became so short, owing to
the debilitated state of the greater number, that it was
resolved to send a party In advance to obtain assistance.
Accordingly on this day Lieutenant Strain and three others
of the strongest detached themselves from the party, and
after suffering great hardships, sometimes travelling along
the banks, and at other times progressing by means of
rafts, which they formed, and which in succession were
destroyed by rapids and snags, they arrived at Yavisa on
the 9th of March, in nearly a perishing condition.
" Almost naked, and with their bodies lacerated in
a shocking manner from the brushwood, &c., they there
engaged several canoes, and despatched. them to the aid
of their comrades, with provisions and the other neces-
saries of which their Companions were in want. On
.thel/th this relief party retnAeleto Yavisa,- having
ascended the river a distance of 60 miles. Having
reached a point on the left bank where they found a newly
made grave, and a letter addressed to Mr. Strain, they
returned on their way down. A little below this they
picked up one man who had strayed from the main body ;
he, however, could give but little account of himself, as he
soon became delirious and died. The letter was from the
officer left in command, dated the 6th of March, and to the
effect that they had followed the river thus far, whore one
man had died of starvation ; that, seeing no probability of
a near approach to the sea, and despairing of aid from be-
low, they had determined to mare a retrograde movement
and attempt to regain their ship. Oa receiving this Mr.
Strain attempted to persuade the people to return in the
canoes and follow them, at the same time offering to ac-
company them, but they declined, from dread of the In-
dians. Failing of this, and hearing of the Virago having
arrived at Darien harbour, he immediately started thence
to ask assistance. We fortunately met him 18 miles -be-
low Yavisa, and he returned with us. The main boy we
came up with, as they had halted for the night. In addi-
tion to the two deaths already noticed, they had lost one
seaman and two New Grenadian commissioners, who had
died of starvation. It was evident to us that in not many
days nearly all would have died from the same cause. From
the 27th of February to the 22d of March they had existed
chiefly on several species of palm nuts ; one of these, when
roasted, was rather sweet and palatable ; another so in-
tensely acid as to have completely divested their teeth of
enamel. Of these they ate immense quantities ; but they
afforded little nourishment; they were excessively astrin-
gent in their nature, and caused long-continued constipa-
tion, lasting, in one instance, 22 days. In nearly all the
intellect was in a slight degree affected, as evinced by
childish and silly remark, although their memory and the
recollection of their sufferings were unimpaired. Individu-
ally they had given themselves up for lost ; and their
excessive joy at being unexpectedly snatched from death
was, in some measure, sufficient to account for this.
Bodily they had all suffered severely. All, on leaving
the ship, had been stout, healthy men ; now they were
literally living skeletons, covered with' foul ulcers and
phlegmons. From retracing their former route, in which
they had cut down nearly all the palm trees affording nuts,
these were getting scarce ; and, as game is hardly seen on
the banks of this river, it is more than probable that a few
days would have finished the whole of the party. They
were, of course, ravenous for food, and it is singular that
their first request should have been for sugar and tobacco.
They being handed over to my care, I gave directions that
nothing should be given to them except what I ordered
myself. I had prepared for them some weak soup and
bouilli, with rice, giving them each meanwhile a small
quantity of port wine and water. On the morning of the
24th, notwithstanding they had partaken of such nourish-
ment as they had not even heard Of for 57 days, many of
them could not move, and had to be carried into the ca•
noes. They had discovered their own weakness, in feeling
now that all necessity for exertion on their part was ended.
In our journey down the river we numbered 37—quite as
many as the canoes could with safety hold. The same
nourishment as given o❑ the 23d was repeated frequently,
and in small quantities. Ott the 26th we arrived at the
boat. Here one of the party, owing to the mistaken kind-
ness of those about him, had an epileptic fit, brought on
by over-repletion. On the evening of the 27th we arrived
at Yavisa, where I regret to say one of the party died ; he
was in the last stage of debility, and, during the journey
down, had only been kept alive by stimulants. On the
30th we arrived on board. Part of the, Americans are lo-
cated on shore at a neighbouring village called La Palma.
They are rationed from the ship, and have whatever else
they require from our mess, and are visited daily by my-
self or Dr. Travan. All are still in a debilitated state,
but, with one exception, are recovering. This individual
is a civil enginee attached to the party.
" Regarding the effects produced on our own men dur-
ing this expedition, I have only to remark that, as yet,
none of them have complained. Quinine was every morn-
ing issued to them as a preventive of fever. Purgative
medicine had once or twice to be given for constipation ;
from the quantity of vegetable matter contained in the
river, of the water of which we drank abundantly, quite
the reverse state of the bowels might have been expected.
During our absence a series of levels have been carried
across the isthmus, along our route from the Savana to the
Chuqupnaqua, the right bank of the latter being found to
be LO feet, and the bed of the river 97 feet abevo the level
of the sea."

* Sucubti.

:gavel and iliiitary Intelligence.

The authorities at the War Department having de-
cided that the whole of the depots of the British regi-
ments stationed at the Provisional Battalion, Chatham,
shall be formed into four company depots, each company
consisting of not fewer than 50 rank and file, the ar-
rangement will be carried int,) effect immediately it hai
been decided to what station the British depots are t
be attached on their contemplated removal from Chat.
ham barracks. The depots which will come under the
above arrangement aro the 12th, the head-quarters of
which are in Australia ; the 37th, now stationed in
Ceylon ; the 40th, the service companies of which are
in ‘Tan Diemen's Land, and the 45th, now doing duty
at the Cape of Good Hope.
The preliminary arrangements for removing the mili-
tary clothing establishment from the Royal Arsenal at
Woolwich are concluded. The necessary space of ground
Within the enclosure facing the Ordnance Hospital,
known as the Grand Depot, has been cleared for the
purpose of commencing forthwith the erection of a com-
modious range of builaings to serve as military clothing
stores and their requisite offices, so as to form a separate
establishment in Woolwich garrison.
The Dido is ordered to be paid off at Sheerness on
Friday next
The screw steam-sloop Cruizer, 17, from Portsmouth
for the East Indies, put into Plymouth on Saturday,
A Turkish two-decked ship-of-war was off Plymouth
Sound yesterday morning, supposed to be bound to Da-
voupoit Dockyard, to receive machinery and a screw
propeller.
The naval authorities have received instructions to pre-
pare transport conveyance for uniforms in readiness to
be despatched for the t NO companies of the Royal Sap-
pers and Miners stationed at Gibraltar, two companies
at Malta, one company at Corfu, one at Halifax, and one
at the Cape of Good Hope.
The transport British Lion, Capt. Palethorpe, arrived
at Woolwich on Sunday, laden with 200 tons of miscel-
laneous stores and 400 tons of provisions returned from
Balaklava. The latter will be lauded and stored at Dept-
ford.

The following appointments were made yesterday at
the Admiralty :
Captain Thomas Sparks Thompson to the Colossus
Henry Sutton, Master's-Assistant, to the Dauntless ;
W. H. E. Mitchell, Assistant-Clerk, to the Scourge.

Sporting Intelligence.

TATTERS A LLT.-MONDAY.

THE LATE DONCASTER MEETING AND THE
SETTLING.

The business of the Doncaster Meeting was brought
to a conclusion to-day with that all important event,
" the settling." Although several absentees were re-
ported, and complaints were occasionally heard, yet a
large majority of the heaviest accounts were wound up ;
and altogether the meeting, regarded from a pecuniary
point of view, may be termed "harmless." Although the
two leading events—the Great Ycrkshire Handicap and
the St. Leger—were won by " outsiders," yet few book-
makers were large winners—many of them having de
termined to "get out" of the money which they stood
against Ellington at any price, and others having been
great losers by the result of certain minor races. Still
i the money is pretty well distributed. It is said that the
persons who generally support the Whitewall Stable have
not thrown in for any very large sum by the success of
Warlock, whose owner trusted the horse for a compara-
tively small amount, whichle divided amongst his friends.
The meeting was surpassingly successful. During the
four days 29 races were contested, inclusive of the decid-
ing heat for the Queen's Plate on the Tuesday. Two
stakes only failed to produce a race, but as a set-offagainst
this shortcoming there was the unusual incident of a
dead heat for second place between Artillery and Bonnie
Scotland for the St. Leger, The aggregate number of
starters for the different stakes was 243, an increase of
44 over that brought out last year. The meeting proved
to be unexpectedly strong in an item of sport which had
been deemed unusually weak. The handicaps—which
had been much criticised, and against which a violent
prejudice had been created—produced in nearly every in-
stance close and interesting races, and the stewards, who
were responsible for the adjustment of the weights, had
cause for gratulation in the practical negation which the
results of their labours gave to fault-finders and cavillers.
To allot imposts to a large number of animals, in accord-
sacs with the preconceived notions of all racisg men,
and to adopt a scale of weights which will suit the ideas
of every turfite, is a task which even the Most expe-
rienced handicapper has failed to accomplish, for a
wide difference of opinion exists as to the merits of
many animals, and it is this difference of opinion which
produces speculation. The paucity of acceptances for
the Great Yorkshire Handicap, and the seemingly un-
,lue leniency displayed in the weighting of Jack
Sheppard for the Corporation Plate, were the main
causes of the prejudice which was raised. The success
af th a top weight Types for the "Great Yorkshire,"
Anr.l the strong fields which contested the other handi-
r..a.ps, will perhaps convince clerks of courses that a high
standard of weight is not incompatible with an interest-
ing race and a large number of starters.
The two-yr-old races were marked by much prospec-
tive importance. The result of the race for the Eglinton
Stakes brought Tournament from the outside division
into a prominent position in the Derby betting. The
running of Blink Bonny increased a reputation which
was temporarily diminished at York : while Bel Oiseau,
who had been frequently backed, was beaten by so mo-
derate an animal, that his name is not likely again to
figure in the list of quotations. Amongst the other two-
yr-olds of mark and likelihood that ran at the meeting
were Ignoramus, whose most important engagement
next year is in The St. Leger, and Tasmania, a remark.
ably fine filly, by Melbourne, that, unfortunately for its
owner, is not entered for one of the three great races
next season—The Derby, Oaks, or St. Leger.
An account of the proceedings at Doncaster would be
imperfect without a reference to the sales of blood stock
which took place on each race day. Although the cata-
logues put forth by the Messrs. Tat'zersall and Mr. H.
Johnson were strong in the number of lots, yet expec-
tation was disappointed by the comparative shyness of
',oyez's. The foreign market was not so well represented
as had been anticipated, and in only a few instances was
the bidding brisk. The highest-priced yearling was a
bay colt (brother to Lord of the Isles), which was sold
to Mr. J. Merry for 710 guineas—not so much by 1,000
guineas as was given for Lord of the Hills last year.
The bay yearling colt, brother to One Act, was knocked
down to Lord Londesborough for 560 guineas ; and a
brown colt by Annandale, out of Calista, to Mr. J. Day
for 330 guineas. Of Mr. Cookson's yearlings the highest
prices were realised by Volta, by Voltigeur (400 gs.), and
Botany, by Melbourne (300 gs.) The former sold to Mr.
Nichol, the latter to Mr. Howard. A bay mare by Pan
taloon, and a filly foal by Melbourne, were purchased
for the royal paddocks, Hampton-court. The stud horses
did not attract much attention. Dervish, the first fa-
vourite for the Derby in 1854, weir sold for 65 guineas.
Voivode, 3 yrs, who was purchased at Donca-ter when
a yearling for the extraordinary sum of 1,020 guineas, was
knocked down for 50 guineas. The late Mr. Worthing-
ton's stud (13 lots) realised 1,145 guineas. The Bay-
thorpe yearlings (four lots) 230 guineas. Mr. Cookson's.
yearlings (six lots) 1,086 guineas. Mr. A. Johnstone's
yearlings (15 lots) 2,666 guineas ; and Lord Londes-
borough's yearlings and brood mares (seven lots) 606
guineas. Such is a brief resume of the leading incidents
of the Doncaster meeting, the business of which was, as
we have stated, brought to a conclusion to-day by the
settling. During the intervals of paying and receiving,
speculation was resumed on the Cesare Witch and Cam-
bridgeshire ; for the former Middleton was made the fa-
vourite, and for the latter Polmoodie, perhaps, had the
" call."

The subjoined list of quotations comprises all the bets
that came under our notice :
CESAREWITCII STAKES.
100 to 6 agst Middleton (taken)
100 t' 6 agst Fulbeck (20 to 1 taken freely)
20 to 1 asst Alice Wentworth (takeu)
20 to 1 agst Merlin (taken)
20 to 1 agst Polestar (taken)
22 to 1 agst Homily (taken)
25 to 1 agst Cerva (taken)
30 to I agst Peter Wilkins (taken)
30 to 1 agst Falstaff (taken)
33 to 1 agst Quince (taken)
33 to 1 agst Comedy (taken)
40 to 1 agst Brother to Grey Tommy (taken)
CAMBRIDGESHIRE STAKES.
20 to 1 agst Polmoodie (25 to 1 taken freely)
25 to 1 agst Lance (taken)
25 to 1 agst B.:ssie (taken)
33 to 1 agst Vengeance (taken)
DERBY.
12 to 1 agst Blink Bonny (taken)
12 to 1 agst Tournament (14 to 1 taken)
20 to 1 agst Colonist (taken)
22 to 1 agst Bird-in-the-Hand (taken)
25 to 1 agst Schiedam (taken)
40 to 1 agst Lord of the Hills (taken)
50 to 1 agst Laird Duff (taken)
600 to 100 agst Blink Bonny and Tournament
coupled (taken)