The Sun.
London, England, 1823-09-22 00:00:00

STATE OF CADIZ.

The following letter, which appears in the
Hampshire Telegraph, contains the latest intelli-
gence from Cadiz, with the exception of that de-
rived through the suspicious medium of the
French Papers, and will he useful in correcting
some,of the misrepresentations which have arisen
in that quarter :

" CAMIZ, AUG. 28.—The French have committed great
blunders since their arrival in this neighbourhood : they should
have pushed on directly, and have drawn as strong a chain of
posts round the coast of Cadiz and the Isle of Leon, as the no.
merical state of their troops
,would have allowed. But by ne-
glecting this, a constant influx `of provisions came into the city,
and all who could muster a feat dollars or doubloons provided
accordingly. The blockade, also, was.so lax, that coasting ves-
sels arrived in great numbers. Our most pressing want is water:
of this, however, we are not totally bereft; we have plenty of
an inferior quality. A great fuss was made at the French
head-quarters, on the arrival of the Generalissimo, because
Admiral Hamelin had allowed the blockade to be broken by
the Tribune frigate; in fact, they did not attempt to keep up
a rigid blockade. That frigate worked up to Cadiz harbour,
and made seven tacks, with the wind blowing •ftesh the whole
time. The French ships were close in, and consequently to
windward. She brought only a mail,whiels she took out of the
packet from Falmouth, which had been pievionsly refused ad-
mittance. She was boUnd to San Lucar, to meet Sir William
A'Court, but was determined to try if a neutral -man-of-war
would be refused admittance—a stretch of power which even the
English nation never exercised• in their various and numerous
blockades. The displeasure of the French appears to have
been created by some compliments which were paid after the
Tribune arrived here. The King expressed a wish to see Capt.
Guion, who accordingly went ashore, having previously salut-
ed the garrison ; and when be came into the King's presence,
the Tribune (by signal) fired another salute. On her going out
of the port, .the Guerriere, French frigate, slipped, and stood
after her, inquiring if the King of Spain was on board. A ne-
gative reply being given, Capt. Onion was then requested to
honour the French Admiral with a visit, or allow the Capt., of the
Guerriere to go on board the Tribune; both of which re-
quests Captain Guion expressed his inability to comply with, as
he was bound to attend his Ambassador at Sein Lucar. This
is the true .statement of the affair ; but the French being disap.
pointed at the little success they have met with, they are now
disposed• to cavil at every thing. From the want of vigilant
blockade on. the land side, Diego has been allowed to escape,
and has collected a considerable force at Malaga. So deter-
mined is that able chief (Riego), that hiliasitaken an, lin-
Incase quantity of church plate, which ha..be,en melted, down,
and the troops paid therewith. He has alto levied immense
contributions on the merchants of Malaga ; and on account of
some murmuring, 14 of the monied Spaniards were shot. The
British merchants being included in the levy; on a remonstrance
from the Captain of tile Sappho 81°4 of warlwhich was sent
there for the protection of their interests), Riego answered, that
he knew not the niceties of politics, but he knew that all who
had money under him must pay for the protection which he
and his army afforded them ; but that the foreigners might
go away if they thought proper, and three of them (111essri.
Mash and Patterson, and Mr. Leach, an American merchant)
went to Gibraltar in the sloop of war. Subsequently, we un-
derstand here, some of the remainder were thrown into prison.
The whole French force in Andalusia does not exceed 20,000
men, though the Duke of Angoulethe boasts in orders that he
has 38,000 men in arms in front of Cadiz. Party is certainly
divided here; though I think they are connected enough to re-
sist any attempt that the invaders can make against them for
two months to come. The natural course of the elements will
then be our greatest strength i • contagion will prevail with the
troops, and the equinoctial and wintry gales will drive away the
fleet, or drive the ashore."

DESCRIPTION OF CADIZ AND ITS ENVIRONS.
The western coast of Andalusia is of a semi-
circnlar form, the southern point of which ter-
minates in an isthmus, that extends about six
leagues to the westward, at the extremity of
which is the city of Cadiz. The -bay between
the coast and this isthmus forms one of the finest
gulfs in Europe, which at the broadest- part re-
senibles the' I..tike of Geneva between. Nioll.aird
Thonon.,

If you imagine yourself onboard a vessel entering the bay,
on your left is the fortress of La Rota; and on the'right that of
San. Sebastian. On one side you behold the shores lined with
betteries, on the other the ramparts- of, Cadiz. Opposite, and
beyend the fort Santa Catalina (Saint Catherine,) is seen the
great white mass of houses ut Cadiz, with their flat roofs and
the church towers, which seem to rise out of the sca. You
then enter the second division of the bay: At the head and in
the distance you perceive the entrance into-the third part, can:
ed Puntalenbaya, which is defended on the left by the fort of
Matagorda, anti that on the right by that of San Lorenzo.
Having said thus much, it. is unnecessary to add that Cadiz
is surrounded bw the sea to:the southward, the - weetwarde and
the castward....The southern and eastern parts are 300. feet
above the level of the sea, and the western scarcely' fifty. There
theramperts are high and built.upon the rock:,4, forming the ex.
ternal boundary of the town, though under these ramparts is a
second. quay, .very broad.and ditidedinto two branches, which
has been partly gained from the sea.
The-city of Cadiz occupies a promontory at the extremity of
a peninsuly, and is join ed to the Isle of Leon only by a cause.
say.' It is washed to the eastward by the gentle waves' of a
well-protected; road, but to the westward it is open, and exposed
to the fury of the ocean.
This situation gives Cadiz. the advantages of an excellent air
and a temperature not otherwise to be expected in so southern a
latitude: The seauir, which itt once refreshens the body and
strengthens, the nerves, moderates the heat in summer, and
makes, the witers, which' are always very titild,•resernbl e spring.
Howeyer hot the weather may be in.surnmir from ten till one.
the afternoons are geneially cool, for the *Oa breeze (Uinta) in-
creases :every hour, and blows throughout. the night. Thue
Cadiz enjoys in summer the most happy temperature, while the
heat is 'quite oppressive at Madrid, .and in general throughout
the inland darts. But it. must be observed, that it becomes
more intense het* whenever thelitalanb, southeast wind,
prevails. .
. This wind is pregnant. with the itoet'eofflicating' vapours,
and comes from the opposite -coast of A fries. The whole at,
mosphere, without exaggeration;: them seems on fire, and the
air every instant becomes more burning hot, like that of an
oven : and yet this wind is only felt 'by its effects, for during
the most oppressive soleno the air is perfectly calm, and seems
to have totally lost its elasticity. -
The atmosphere is at these- times filled with an alrnest im.
peeceptiblecapour,, but which gives t() the sky a bluish chalky
. colour, and which even at noon envelopes the sun in a kind of
hire, making it appeal' large, by retracting its' rays. The lea,
''ton, is as calm and smooth as Make, the water, inconceivablt
warm, and frequently the fish appear on thesurface, and seem
expiring with heat. On shore most animals arc not exempt
from Strati.- . Birds fly in a 'low region of theule dogs hide
abernaelec.s,cats seem in•a.rage, anules artruneasy.arld gasp for'
breath, Towle are restless, and run to fr6,-and pies rote them-
selves in the earth. Martalone seems to suffer Tots : yet the

solano is more or less felt, according to the dirigence of consti-
tutions. It almost always produce; a violent tension of the
nerves, renders the circulation of the blood slower, and excites
to excess and to voluptuousness.
Although the extent of Cadiz is very limited, yet a prodigi-
ous quantity of houses are heaped together there, and the po-
pulation is very numerous ; being reckoned between 70 and.
80,000. The houses being high and very much crowded to-
gether, seem to justify this computation ; but the same cause
accounts for the small number of fine edifices. If we except
the churches, the monasteries, the great hospital, the custom-
house-,.and other public buildings, Cadiz, notwithstanding its
great riches, contains but a very small number of remarkable
houses. The greater part are of stone from Puerto de Santa
Maria, which is brought across the bay at a small expence.
The houses being prodigiously high, the streets, which are
narrow, necessarily appear very dark, and make a very singu.
lar impression when-we raise our eyes and see buch a multi-
tude of balconies and so small a portion of sky. The streets
however are extremely, well 4hteol at night. The pavement,
which is excellent, is cornpos, of ,ver3r small stones, furnished
with causeways on each 'side; and kept nearly as clean as In
Holland. Cadiz, however, contains some line streets, among
others that called Calle-ancha or Broad-street, and has besides
three large and two small squalts.
, • As to the style of architecture, the climate seems to have
irrevocably fixed that introduced every where by the Moors;
flat roofs with small towers and plots of flowers, well-paved
square courts (patios), which, by their neatness and ornaments,
resemble drawing:rooms, galleries that run round it on each
floor, large rooms, small windcws, and walls carefully witened;
fill which is the character of African architecture.-
The streets are narrow, yet well paved and clean. The most
beautiful part of the city look.; towards the Puerto de Santa
Maria, where the houses are lofty, built of white free-stone, and
ornamented with painted balconies. They have in front a wide
parade, well gravelled, planted with trees, and communicating
with.the sea-road, where the merchantmen and ships of war
find shelter.

Two considerable squares, one for the market,. the other call-
ed Plaza de San Antonio, with the Calla.ancha joining to it by
way of mall, contribute both to beauty and to health ; and the
whole city being nearly surrounded by a rampart, this forms
an elevated, airy, and delightful walk, much frequented in the
evenings.
_ _ _

Theinost advantageous view of Catlz and its environs may
be had from the signal tower; from whence you look immedi-
ately down upon the houses, whose fiat roofs, covered with a
e'hite cement, have a singular yet most pleasing appearance.
To•the westward you command the ocean, with numerous ves-
sels, some stretching away, others entering the harbour ; and
on tine land side your discover the four interesting sea-port
towns of Rota, Santa Maria, Port-Royal, and Caraca, with
the Isle of Leon and the connecting causeway, whilst a rich
country, hanging towards the setting sun, bounds the distant
prospect.

The environs of Cadiz on the north side, or that next the land,
ptesen,t the traveller with a view equally singular and grand.
During the last league, as he arrives, he is between the bay on
the right and the ocean on the left. Theland rises ten fathoms above
the level of the sea, and is on all sides lashed by its waves, so that
it resembles a dike, with which some bold adventurer has divided
the waters of the sea. You will reality conceive lam speaking
of the narrowest part of the isthmus, Cadiz being situated on
the broadest. From this spot the eye takei in the:whole bay,
with all its sinuosities and divisions, and commands a forest of
masts, which continues from Caraca to Cadiz, • while in front
is the brilliant mass that forms the town, with its ramparts
and towers. On the left the view extends over the vast ex-
panse of ocean, in which the. fort of San Sebastian appears
to float, because it is built ion a small sandy strip of land,
connected with the isthmus, but at high water inundated
by the sea.
At length the road somewhat departs from the sea in pro-
portion as it widens ; but it is completely desert till a little
before entering Cadiz, where is a pretty row of houses, a smell
church, and to the right and left square gardens adorned with
green pallisades. You.then pass the gate and see at the cx.
tremity of the baatio'n's of the fort, on the right of the hay, and
and on the the tunmittiotitocenn ; in a few minutes your are in
Cadiz. Here you behold a broad open space, and somewhat
elegant buildings, which render this road tolerably agreeable ;
and that which leads upon the ramparts would banish the re-
membrance of this pleasure, were it not renewed by entering on
the Plata de la Mar.

The appearance of this opening and,,the various groups that
fill it produce indeed a very fine•efreet. It exhibits a greet
many little booths or-stalls, where are sold fowls that are brough
_every week from Africa ; a number of' tables with all kinds of
fish, among which are often sword-tish (pescado de espada) and
a great*inety of shell-fish •:and polyps; sellers; of lemonade
and orgeate whose shops are adorned with foliage and lemons,
or little fuuritains playing; Water-sellers with their wheel-bar-
rows, and ice-sellers with their ice-tubs ; a long row of fruit-
shops, where grapes, Water-lemons, seville-oranges, and pome-
granates, figs, sw.eat oranges, and all kinds of truit, are piled
up ; sellers of 'grasshoppere, • which are shut up in brass-wire
cages, to enliven the bed-rooms of those who are fondof them,
especially the ladies ; Turks, barefoet, widelarge pantaloons,
black beards' and long pipes, sitting down and eating dates
tables covered with imagers of saints and sailors' caps, small
,cook-shops, and wine-sellers' booths covered with sail-cloth.—
To these peculiarities of Cadi:eadd a hide of the tumult of
Madrid, and you will have a complete idea of the Plaza de la
Mar. • .1 .
The quay immediately without the gate prevents an equally
animated prospect ; for there a multitude of fruiterers, water.
.selters, wine-sellers, cooks, itinerant hardwareinen; and ballad.
singers, constantly assemble. Here you see sailors seated round
a eugof wine, playing at cards, another. troop are dancing, a
third boxing, and father on fiddlers intermingled with porters;
§orne boats now arriving, a cry ie heard of " Al Puerto 1 Al
Puerto 1" Every one crowds to the stairs, all is an motion,
and every thing adds to the tumult.
Imagine also the effect of several hundred merchant Alps
lying a t. anchor off' the town, the mined multitude of sailors from
all nations, the noise of men leading and unloading ships : ail
this,' I eay,'l must. leave to your imeginerion, for it would be
impossible to give you an idea of this scene, 'which is embellished
by the view of a fleet in the diet/wee.
The ramparts of Cadiz, which are the finest and broadest I
have teen, are used as a proinenade. On the west side they
'commend a view of the 'l)q., the opposite coast and the quay
below the ramparts, where, whenthe sea is rough, and wevei fly
up to a considerable distance. On the south and east sides is the
immense expanse of Ocean: A small part to the west viOd is
bordered by five rows of ehnis, forming four avenues adorned
with elegant seats, and constituting the Alameda; but the tree*
are small and stunted in consequence of the dryneas and •rocki-
ness of the soil, Ihe sea air, tied the beet of the climate. Bow-
s
ever, this promenade iii much- fresprented, especially at eight.—
The cool sea-breeze, the multitittle of charming. women, the
lights' in the neighbouringhouses,4lie instruments and gay airs
heard on all sides, the'serenceand starry heavens, widen in this
fine climate display themselves in all their magnificenee, all
these charms fascinate the spectator, .and make him pass his
evenings very pleasantly.
A great part of the ramparts, to t“e southward are
shaded, serve for the lOwer elaseee to take their siesta.. Extend-
ed upon benchei or upon the wens, which
the water:carriers,'
porters,
s,pldiers, and sailors, quietly resign
_themselves to sleep, and,
half-naked; enjoy the luxurY of the sen-bretze.
'I should call these ramparts (including the - Alameda) the •
only promenade at Cadiz, if the environs on the land side did
not afford a very pleasing variety. It is true the soil is ea sandy
that it is not easy to walk there.; but the pure and refreshing
sea'eir, and the abovementioned view of the bay and of the
sea, attract thither a greet number of people of both sexes and
of all conditions. •
The thus; indispensable necesreery_Of life is wanting, I tnean
fresh water, which is brought frothPu`,rto . sivun:
where hundred* of barrels are continually loading eee.ue_ionde
ing. This water is bad
, containing endell eusceeeti,;.,attet,
and very little air, which it entirelylosesby the heat and car
carriage. It tastes almoit like boiled water, and in addition 'se-
, quires a putrid tasta.from the esek• It i 3 true the inhabitants
Attempt to correct it by fil:rarion, by Inixing,snaw with it, tied
other means, but few people can anbrd all these exp.enws, for
the ice is brought from the Sierieerfdistance of 13 leazuei, and
the mules that bring it only travel by night e yet a ewe), always
Arrives at Cadiz regularly every odter day. The common water
is detestable; and to have better it is pecessary. to 1144t),SMT-
water, either from the wets *venders, or from the ice-calm,
where it costs near a' halfpenDY a glass. l'oeilomestic,puipPses,
washing, Sec. rain-water, is collected in subterranean! cisterns,
into whteh various pipes are laid ; feet as this water evaporates
daring the great, heats, which alto increases the consumption,
every barrel of spring 'water costs about fo4r-liOce
How* an economy is • practised in the consumption of water,
which at first excites the astonishment of foreigners.