The Sun.
London, England, 1841-09-07 00:00:00

A VISIT TO THE AGA OF PRO-

BOSSA.
(From the Moniteur.)
_ _

From the month of November, 1836, till the end of
February, 1837, I was in garrison, with 50 men under
my command, at Wonitza, a fort on the Gulf of Pro-
bossa. The rainy season had for the last month kept
us mewed up in our barracks, during which time
we were as dull as so many Turks. At length, how-
eves, the massive gray clouds that had obscured
the sky broke up and sailed away towards the
north, and the sun spread its dazzling light over
the white houses of Probossa, a pretty town situate
immediately opposite to Wonitza. A number of fisher-
men's boats were ploughing the waters of the gulf,
skimming rapidly along in the haze, like a flight of
sea-mews. Probossa, with its lofty minarets, the
countless masts of the vessels stationed in the
port, the many-coloured streamers fluttering in the
wind, the dark cypress trees rising like black lances
above the gardens stocked with citrons and lemon trees,
whose waving stirred masses of golden fruit and rich
blossoms—all this formed an enchanting picture which
was reflected in the gloomy waters of the lonian Sea.
Probossa rose before me like an enchanted palace, which
old Poseidon had called up from the bosom of the sea.
I could resist the enticement no longer ; I felt as
though the barrack walls were crushing me beneath
their weight. I sallied out, hurried away to the Mob:),
and, beckoning to Geozakys the fisherman, in whose
company I had made many an excursion on the gulf,
stepped into his bark ; and ere the shadows had begun
to shorten beneath the noon-day sun, we had doubled
cape Rephali tis Panagias, and stood before Probossa.
The revenue officers invited me to take a seat ;
• " Katz Effendi," said they—a mixture of Turkish
and Greek, but exceedingly polite for revenue-
officers, especially Turkish ones ; and when I had
declared my name and quality, and explained the
object of my voyage, they bowed and wished me
a pleasant one. In the first place, I went to the
English Consul ; the streets were silent and lonely, as
is the case in all Moslem towns, where all noise and
activity is centered in the bazaar. From time to time
I encountered a Turk followed by a slave bearing
his tzembucky (chibouk or pipe), and once I passel a
lady, who, although muffled up in her veils, turned her
head towards the wall with an expression of contempt.
An Albanese, who was basking in the sun, and whom
I politely requested to point out to me the Con-
sul's residence, slightly raised his head, winked his
eyes, made a sharp noise with his tongue, and
quietly resumed his recumbent position—an expres-
sive piece of pantomime which I perfectly un-
derstood. In a short time, however, heaven sent me
a guide in the shape of a venerable Greek dressed in
the Armenian costume. The worthy individual, whose
name was Antonio, gave me . all the information I re-
quired, and moreover insisted on bearing me company,
declaring that I should be his guest, and that he would
never suffer a fellow-countryman of his king to lodge
anywhere but under the roof of a Greek.
M. Meges, the Consul, is a German by birth, a man of
the most amiable character, and who for the last 17
years had been at the head of the general consulacy of
Albania. He had had a pavilion constructed adjoining
his own residence for the accommodation of strangers,
and he offered me hospitality with the most
gracious politeness ; but I could not accept of
it without wishing •to offend Antonio, who con-
ducted me to his own house. He heralded my arrival by
the most noisy demonstrations, contrary to the Greek
custom, calling out lustily after his wife and four daugh-
ters, who were all four of the most remarkable beauty.
At about four o'clock M. Carlos, Secretary to the
Consul, came in order to present me to the .Aga. An-
tonio accompanied us with five of his friends, that he
might do honour to his guest, and enhance his import-
ance in the eyes of the Moslems.
The Aga's house is entirely built of wood, with a
magnificent yard attached to it, filled with fig-trees
and cypresses ; in the antechamber a great number of
slaves lay stretched upon the bare ground ; one of
them rose and opened a door leading into a spacious
apartment, but utterly unfurnished. A dozen slaves,
who were then on duty, were gathered in a group,
and intent on a game at cards. Through a second door
we were conducted into the great audience chamber,
the wall of which were tapestried with red cloth.
On the divan were laid out several rich Smyrna car-
pets, fretted with black and green. Close to the chim-
ney, embellished with ornaments of gold, we perceived
the Agra, in a squatting posture, whose motionless atti-
tude, carefully arranged beard, and grave unmoved
countenance, gave hien all the appearance of a lifeless
figure. lle was attired in black silk, and wore the Turkish
red cap. By his side, on a carpet, sparkled a pair of
Albanese pistols ; a magnificent yatagan inlaid with
precious stones was suspended over his head by a
red silken string. On his right stood four fine young
men, attired in a picturesque costume, embroiderei with
gold and silver, and near these were placed several
subaltern functionaries. We approached him, respect-
fully inclining our persons, and placing our right
hands on our breasts. After having returned our salu-
tation, the Aga bade us be seated by his side. We
were presented with tzembuckys, and coffee was
served us in little China cups and silver saucers
placed round a plateau of silver, and covered over
with a piece of red velvet, embroidered with gold
and silver, and surrounded with a deep golden
fringe. We soon entered into conversation. The Aga
wade me undergo a close examination ; the Turks are
very fond of interrogating Franks on the minutest de-
tails of European life ; but beneath this apparent desire
.of gathering instruction there is a lurking curiosity,
savouring considerably of satire. First of all we talked
Politics, and from that we went on to the manners
and usages of Europe. The Aga was anxious to
know, among other things, how matters were
conducted on the occasion of grand ceremonies, and
whether women were present, and took part in the
festivities. On my replying in the affirmative, he
tetified great astonishment, and added, with an ex-

preseion of pride, that he too, like the Giaours, had
only one wife. This, indeed, was true, but the
Moslem forgot to mention that, besides his legitimate
spouse, he had a harem peopled with a round number of
beautiful slaves. When we took our leaves, the Aga was
kind enough to offer me the use of a horse, that I might I
visit, on the following day, the ruins of Nikopolis, which
are about four leagues from Probossa : this offer I ac-
cepted with gratitude.
After taking a stroll in the environs of the town, we
repaired to the Consul's, who was waiting dinner for us ;
regaledhe us with Ilockheim, and under his hospitable,
auspices I found Turkish life very tolerable. Anto-
nio and I returned home in high glee. I slept on the
divan in company with all the family, including four
young ladies. But notwithstanding this agreeable
companionship, I passed a frightful night : the haun-
itions, a kind of gnat, whose bite entails con-
sequences of some danger, together with other insects,
whose names are less poetical, kept me in a state of per-
petual torment. Antonio, who was taking his rest by the
side of me, had laid his hand upon my shoulder, doubtless
tae better to be aware of my movements. But I frustrated
leis precautions, and slipped away to breathe the fresh air
on the terrace of his house. The pale moon and a few
dim stars were yet visible in the eastern sky, over
which a red tinge was already beginning to spread.
The town was plunged in profound repose, and a
distant splashing sound fell upon the ear caused by
the waters of the sea rushing through a narrow inlet ,
into the gulf. Suddenly the streets resounded with the
noise of horses' hoofs upon the pavement below ; it
was the slaves, who were bringing me the steed which
the Aga had offered me on the preceding evening.
I was soon mounted, and in a few minutes we were
scouring at full trot through the winding streets, till,
passing through the town gates, over the moat and
drawbridge, we reached the open country. After a
three hours' ride through an olive plantation, we arrived
on a height whence we could descry the ruins of Niko-
polis roiled out at our feet. The reader will no
doubt remember that Augustus built this town
in memory of the battle of Actium. Beneath
the arches of the entrance gate were erected several
calibies, in front of which a number of Gipsy families
were seated ; they cried out to me " You are an English-
man," I replied in Albanese that I had not that honour
upon which they began laughing and said, "You
will not own it. All the English do the same, they
aro afraid of being detained for ransom." Within a
.quarter of a league from this gate stand the remains
of a theatre ; they crown a hill whence there is
a view of the gulf, the open sea, and an aqueduct, which
stretches across the country for a distance of more than
al league. The theatre has lustily withstood the hand of
time, and is of vast extent. I remarked the facade of an
edifice, at the foot of which lay scattered large portions
of columns ; its entire length was about 260 paces. The !
ruins of Nikopolis are disseminated over an immense
tract, of which it took me a whole hour to make the
circuit.
When we returned at about mid-day, I observed to my
thement that every one saluted me as I passed,
uwtitleerreasni
whereas
onpreceding day I was allowed to go by with
astonishment
the eompletest indifference. Of this sudden change
I very soon discovered the cause. For when I
had dismounted and was returning home on foot,
ail these polite demonstrations were immediately dis-
continued, they had all been addressed to the Aga's horse,
not to its rider. G eozakys pressed me to hasten
any departure, for the wind was growing brisk. So I
took leave of all my friends, and consigned myself to the
care of my old Paliuurus. The breeze drove us rapidly
across the gulf. The sea-mews had not yet returned to
their nests, and I could still distinguish the streamers
cluttering gaily from the masts of the war sloops sta-
tioned in the port, as I ascended the steep street which
leads to the citadel of Wonitza.

MY DOG v. atY WIFE.—A couple having
got married, and being about to leave the altar, the
bridegroom made a stand and inquired for—for what,
reader, do you think ? His wife ! No. What then ?
—perhaps some of the party to invite them to dine ?
No. He inquired for what was uppermost in his mind—
he inquired for what was far dearer to him than wife or
friends—he inquired for " his dog !"
THE WEATHER AND THE CROPS.—Some
progress hr.s been made with the harvest in this neigh-
bourhood, but very little is yet housed, although a few
better days would enable it to be so. Rain has not
fallen till the last two or three days in any quantity, but
there is not such weather as is well fitted for the grain at
this season. We are glad to hear many who did com-
plain more hopeful of the average yield in this neigh-
bourhood, and we trust that a bountiful Providence will
yet grant us such seasonable weather as will enable the
fruits of the earth to be matured and got in. The crops
now generally look well and promising.—Kendal Mercury.
CREDIT.—The most trifling actions that affect
a man's credit are to be regarded. Sound of your hammer
at five in the morning, or at nine at night, heard by a
creditor, makes him easy six nights longer ; but if he
sees you at a billiard-table, or hears your voice at a
tavern, when he should be at work, he sends for his
money the next day.

IMPERIAL PARLIL.MENT.
HOUSE OF LORDS. Sept. 6.
The Duke of Wellington entered the House a few
minutes before five o'clock, and took his seat in the place
heretofore occupied by Lord Melbourne. He was sup-
ported on the Treasury Bench by Lord Wharncliffe, the
Earl of Haddington, the Earl of Ripon, and the Duke of
Buckingham.
About the same time Lord Brougham entered the
House, and took his seat exactly opposite to his
former position, viz., at the head of the bench, close to
the chief opposition one, which was soon after occupied
by Lord Melbourne, Lord Cottingham (the late Lord
Chancellor), the Marquis of Lansdowne, Lord Duncan-
non, the Earl of Minto and Lord Campbell.
The LORD CHANCELLOR (Lord Lyndhurst) entered
the House at twenty minutes past five o'clock, and took
his seat on the Woolsack.
The Duke of Sutherland entered the House shortly
afterwards and caused considerable laughter, his Grace
proceeding to the Ministerial side of the House, and not
discovering his mistake till he found by whom he
was surrounded. Upon his Grace attempting to proceed
to the side of the House occupied by his political friends,
Lord Wharncliffe caught hold of his hand for the
purpose of restraining him, but his Grace, true to his
political creed, was not to be led astray.
On the motion of Lord WHARNCLIFFE certain
correspondence between Lord J. Russell and the Magis-
trates of Nottingham was ordered to be laid on the table.
ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE BILL.
Lord COTTENHAM moved the committal of the Ad-
ministration of Justice Bill.
The House having resolved itself into Committee,
Lord SHAFTESBURY in the Chair,
Lord BROUGHAM said their Lordships were aware
that he bad some objections to make to the Bill, but he
preferred bringing them forward on the bringing up
of the Report.
Lord CAMPBELL said it was his intention to move
an amendment, with respect to the qualification of the
ex-Vice-Chancellor, in order to remove doubts that
might exist as the clause at present stood with
respect to the right of the Crown to appoint
to that situation a member of the Irish bar of fifteen
years' standing. He trusted that their Lordships would
have no objection to that amendment.
The Bill then went through Committee, and on the
question that the Report be brought up,
Lord BROUGHAM said—Perhaps it would be more
convenient to take the amendments in the order of the
clauses. The 19th clause enabled the Crown to appoint
two Vice-Chancellors, and he maintained that, although
the arrears was such that it was necessary to give som e
addition to the judicial powers, yet the arrears being of
a temporary nature, there was no occasien to make the
additional power permanent.—(Hear, hear.) By the
Bill as it at present stood, one of the new Judges was
to be permanent and the other temporary. The 20th
clause provided that one of the Vice-Chancellors was to be
permanent, and the other to be only during the life of the
person originally appointed. Now, he thought there
ought to be only one Vice-Chancellor appointed, and
that the other should be but temporary. He would not
detain the House by repeating the arguments he had
urged on a former occasion. What had since passed had
rather strengthened his objections, and he referred
chiefly to the delay that had taken place
with regard to the Bill. It was now fourteen months
since the Bill had been brought into the House. It was
referred by his Noble and Learned Friend to a
Select Committee,
_ and had been adopted by the
House.—(Hear, hear.) It was then sent down
to the other House, and there it fell through.
He would not now enter into the reasons of its supposed
failure ; but if there had been such an apprehension, and
such an anxiety for the relief of suitors, he thought a
delay of twelve months ought not to have been suffered.
He was so impressed with that fact, that he took an
opportunity of bringing another Bill into that
House, which could not in any way interfere with
the privileges of the other House, but the last
Parliament did not think fit to pass that Bill,
and the delay which had been consequent
on that refusal rather confirmed him in the grounds he
had given for his opposition to this addition. He would
then satisfy himself with proposing on the 20th clause
to substitute the word " and" in place of the word " to, "
and the consequential alterations dependant upon that
word.
Lord COTTENHAM hoped their Lordships would
not limit the relief proposed to be given by the Bill to
the suitors in Chancery by agreeing to the amendment
proposed by his Noble and Learned Friend, who
had not said one word respecting the transference of the
business now transacting in the Equity side of the Ex-
chequer, which must of necessity increase the business
in the Court of Chancery. Neither had his Noble
and Learned Friend in any way alluded to the Com-
mittee, which reported upon the existing abuses in the
Court of Chancery. Before that Committee barristers
solicitors, and agents, and, indeed, all persons concerned
in the business of that Court, were examined, and the opi-
nion of all, without exception, was, that one additional
Judge would not relieve them from the pressure.
The evidence indeed led many to doubt whether two ad-
ditional Jndges would be sufficient, because it would be
fully expected when the business in the Court of
Chancery was freed from delay it would naturally
increase, for they said it was now the constant practice
for the profession to dissuade persons from coming into
the Court, unless the cause was of some magnitude in
consequence of the extreme delay in obtaining justice.
The evidence given before that Committee had led many tc
change their opinions. They went in with an opinion
that one Judge would be sufficient, and were convinced
that two would scarcely answer. An experience of 40
years in the Court of Chancery satisfied him that one
additional Judge would not be sufficient.
The amendment was then put and negatived without
a division.
Lord CAMPBELL then moved to insert the words
"and Ireland," so as to render Irish barristers of fifteen
years' standing also eligible for office under the Bill.
The LORI) CHANCELLOR said he thought the
amendment unnecessary, as the words " barrister at law"
implied either an English or an Irish barrister.
Lord CAMPBELL said he had consulted several legal
friends on the subject, and as they thought with himsef,
that doubts might arise respecting it, he thought it im-
portant they should be removed by the Bill.—(Hear.)
Lord BROUGHAM said if the words were added in
this Bill, he thought similar doubts would be raised
with respect to the present Vice-Chancellorship, created
by the 53d Geo. 111.
The Earl of WICKLOW thought the suggestion of
the Noble Lord (Brougham) was very important.
—(Hear.) It was evident that it was not intended to
exclude any member of the Irish bar from office under
the Bill, and therefore it was desirable that this Bill
should not have the practical effect of excluding Irish bar-
risters from the other office. Under these circumstances
lie trusted their Lordships would give the Bill such con-
sideration as would remove the objection stated.
Lord CAMPBELL said their Lordships were all of
opinion that Irish barristers should be eligible to these
offices, and as far as the two new offices were concerned,
the words he proposed were clearly sufficient. He was
• most anxious that it should be understood that they
were also eligible to the office as it then existed, and he
would undertake to introduce words on the 3d reading
which should certainly effect that object.—(Hear.)
The LORD CHANCELLOR suggested that the
Noble and Learned Lord would postpone his amendment
till the third reading of the Bill.
Lord CAMPBELL said that if, as the Noble and
Learned Lord on the Woolsack seemed to think, it would
be more convenient that the amendment should be in-
troduced on the third reading of the Bill, he
(Lord Campbell) was ready to ac:ede to the Noble
and Learned Lord's suggestion ; but, certainly,
before the Bill left that House he should ask tiler
Lordships whether any doubts ought to exist in a matter
of such importance.
The Noble and Learned Lord then withdrew his
amendment.
Lord BROUGHAM read a letter from the Lord Chief
Justice, deprecating the principle of compensation under
the circumstances referred to.
The clause was then struck out.
The report was then received, and the Bill was ordered
to be read a third time to-morrow.
A messenger from the House of Commons brought
up the Earl of Scarborough's Indemnity Bill.
PUNISHMENT OF DEATI-1 BILL.
The Earl of WICKLOW begged leave to call the at-
tention of her Majesty's present Ministers to the fact
that Ireland was not included in the Punishment of
Death Bill as it had been introduced last Session. He
had at the time pointed out the anomaly, and he hoped it
would receive the consideration of the new Government.
The Duke of WELLINGTON said he would call the
attention of his Right Hon. Friend the Secretary for
the Home Department to the subject.
Their Lordships then adjourned.

HOUSE OF COMMONS, Sept. 6.
The SPEAKER took the Chair at a Quarter before
Four o'Clock.

There were about one hundred Members (principally
Conservatives) at the sitting of the House. They took
their seats on the Ministerial sides. The only Liberal
Member who maintained his former place was Mr.
Wakley. The Opposition benches were nearly empty,
there not being more than a dozen Members, among
whom we observed Mr. Hawes, Mr. Roebuck, Dr. Bow-
ring, Mr. Hunaphery, &c. Lord Ingestrie, Sir George
Clerk, and Sir Thomas Fremantle, were on the Treasury
bench.
Mr. CRESWELL, and Mr. D. DUNDAS took the oaths
and their seats.