The Sun.
London, England, 1864-09-29 00:00:00

Fashions for October.

(From Le Follct)
The favourite colours for the season are red and yellow.
Hitherto there has been some prejudice against red, but it
certainly now reigns triumphant ; and it has one advantage
that it is becoming to almost all complexions.
The bottom of the skirts cut in festoons are still fashion
able. They are made rather short, and below the festoons is
a plated bias flounce, wLich gives width to the skirt, and
forms a train. This flounce is usually quite plain. When
trimmed, it is with an insertion of lace. The festoons should
be edged or trimmed either with plaiting, lace, fringe, &c.
Sometimes trimmings aro placed from the centre of each
festoon a few inches up the skirt, or even to the waist.
The wide sash, tied behind, is still worn with both silk
and ball dresses. For day or demi-toilette the long and w de
black sash is generally preferred, even with a white or light
coloured dress. Plaid or stripped taffetas are worn also
with black, grey, or violet dresses.
The sash to match the dress is equally ala mode. It is
fastened in front by a large gold or silver buckle. 0 r,gandi
dresses, also, have coloured sashes, if the body is not made
with long basques There are some charming dresses
of this kind. The body, entirely separated from the skirts,
permits of variety in the toilette ; for, as a change, a cachc-
mire or taffetas vests may be worn, instead of the body like
the dress.

Cachemire collets continue in favour. We do not speak
merely of the original shape, embroidered and trimmed with
guipure, but of a very small collet, trimmed with two rows
of cachemire braid, rather wide and placed so as to form one
wide band. This trimming is put all round, and at the bot-
tom a black Thibet fringe. The fastening consists of a
double ornament of chased silver. This model, made in
white, would form a very pretty sortie de bal.
Although it is rather too early to speak very decidedly
about winter fashion, we can inform our readers that num-
bers of mantles are being made in armure and gros -grain
silk with trimmings of velvet and passementerie ; and that
the paletot make, as formerly, will be much adopted. Upon
silk mantles sometimes the trimming is put on so as to imi-
tate the barque. Wide band of velvet edged with hanging
buttons or scalloped. The velvet, after forming revers in
the front, is put round the bottom and carried up the seam.
White and black Thibet fringe is much used ; when very
wide it is placed on the bottom of mantles, or on skirts ;
when narrow it is used to trim bodies or vestes. There is
a very pretty little fringe suitable for the latter purposes ; it
is double, and divided by a very narrow cachemire
Embroidered dresses will be much worn next winter, The
designs, imitating lace, will be very recherches. Black is
always preferable, and should be rich poult de soie—the
pattern being in violet, blue, or even red.
The fashion of wearing vestes by no means diminishes;
on the contrary-- guimpes and waistcoats are quite the order
of the day. For the autumn the piqud is often replaced by
one of white taffetas, half open down the front, so as to show
a jabot of lace.
Long sashes of black or white lace are made very wide,
and over a muslin or silk dress form an exceedingly pretty
finish to a toilette. They are doubly useful, for they can
be employed as headdresses also.
Amongst the following dresses will be found some great
novelties :

A dress of white Chamb6ry gauzy, with pink spots wide
apart. Two little flounces, gauffered and edged at top and
bottom with black lace. Between the two flounces is a wile
insertion cf lace. The dress has a rounded train. High
body, ornamented with insertion. Narrow sleeves, with
insertion up the seams and backs of the arms. Wide sash
of black lace, very long, widening towards the ends, and
pointed. The headdress is charming; it consists of a little
pouff of pink and rod geraniums, attaching a lace catalane
resting upon the back hair.
Skirt of white silk, striped with pink ; a flounce at the
bottom of the skirt, edged with pink. Dress of white linos
cut in scallops, edged with pink silk. The dress is drawn
up at equal distances all round. Low body. Lace berthe,
trimmed with ruches of silk. Wide band of white and pink
striped ribbon. Gold buckle in front. Coiffure; a catalane
of blonde mixed with roses.

Skirt of black silk, trimmed with a plaited flounce edged,
with white, Over this, drawn up, was one of white linos,
striped with black. Casaque-habit of black silk, very full,
with long skirt.

Another very pretty morning dress was of white foulard,
with black lounge. shaped spots. Double skirt; the under
one trimmed with a plaited flounce of scarlet taffetas, edged
with the white foulard. The over-skirt of the same, open
in front, and trimmed with a band of scarlet cut in scallops,
aid edged with foulard. The upper-skirt is fastened in
frost with large buttons, covered with scarlet silk, Wide
sash of scarlet silk, tied behind.
Many dresses this autumn are made with one wide fioun ce
crossways, about a quarter of a yard wide. This has a very
good effect, especially in striped materials. In this style
was a dress of black silk, with satin stripes, very fine, of a
rich violet. The flounce edged with a quilling of violet.
The bottom of the skirt. which reached below the flounce,
was cut in scallops, and edged to match the flounce. Seno-
rita jacket, trimmed to match.

There id little variation in the shape of bonnets. They
are still small, and close to the face ; without curtains, or
with curtains about an inch in width. Dust-coloured
crape mixed with velvet will bo very fashionable this
autumn.

Almost all the bonnets ate bouillinnes from front to back
In velvet it is really pretty, and not co heavy as might be
imagined. Oae made in this manner was of black velvet,
without any crown or curtain; the front being very long, so
as to form a crown, which was covered with flat black
feathers. With drab feathers and black or Mexican blue
velvet, elegant bonnets are made.

Feathers will be the most fashionable trimming for the
coming winter. For crape and tulle bonnets they have been
replaced by Sowers—peacocks' feathers alone having kept
their stand during the summer, the others however making
their appearance with valve , either for the bonnet itself, or
as a trimming.

A white crinoline bonnet, lined with green silk ; the in-
side of the front trimmed with a tuft of ivy-leaves, and the
same trimming on the outside edge—a fringe of red berries
falling from the edge, On the left side is placed a bouquet
of ivy-leaves and red berries ; and the green strings are car-
ried across the bonnet, close by the crown. The curtain,
which is very narrow, is of green silk, plaited in large plaits,
and covered with tulle,

Black lace bonnets are very fashionable this autumn. A
very pretty one, lately worn by the Empress, was trimmed
with a wreath of daisies round the front. The same style of
bonnet may also be trimmed with a wreath of periwinkle.
The front is very small ; soft crown, and no curtain. The
strings, to match the colours of the flowers, are carried
across the bonnet, close to the crown.

Another black tulle bonnet was trimmed with two roses,
one just above the bandeau and the other close to the ear.
On this kind of bonnet roses of all colours may be worn,
but pink or white roses are the best for black bonnets, Tulle
bouillonne are also very pretty, trimmed with shaded grass,
or a small bird or buttes fly, or rose•buds; and they are even
made without any trimming, and with tulle strings.
There is a talk of doing away with strings altogether,
and fastening the brunets with pins; but at present it is
only talk. We scarcely think it is likely to be adopted—at
any rate during the winter.

gr
tririrrt*

HER MAJESTY.

BALMORAL, Sept. 27.
Her Majesty the Queen, accompanied by PrinceEs
Helena and Prince Alfred, and attended by the
Hon. Harriet Phipps, drove to Alt. na. Guithcsaell
yesterday.

Prince Humbert of Italy.
His Royal Highness Prince Humbert Was en'
gaged early yesterday in paying farewel visits
prior to his departure for the Continent. His royal
highness was accompanied by C3unt Maffei. Later
in the afternoon the Prince took a drive with his
Excellency the Italian Minister. In the evening
the Mar qus d'Az.-glio gave a grand dinner—a fare‘
well one—at the Italian Legation in Grosvenor-
street. Covers were laid for 22. The conaPal3l
included all the members of the Legation and the
Prince's suite. His Excellency the Marquis de
Lavradio (the Portuguese Minister), the Marquis
de Cadore (the French Charge d'Affaires), and
many others, paid farewell visits to the prince is
the course of yesterday.