The Sun.
London, England, 1855-01-05 00:00:00

A VISIT TO JAPAN,

(LETTER FROM A MEDICAL OFFICER.)
NAGASAKI, JAPAN, SEPT. 25.
Our small squadron of three steamers and a fri-
gate arrived off this port on the 7th of September,
and were running in with all ease and comfort,
'viewing with some surprise the number of batteries
and guns on all available points of defence, for the
eater harbour, when we found some boats anxious
to communicate a letter in several languages for-
lidding our entrance, and "even verbally hinting
such things as blowing us out of the water. This
was at 4 p.m., but subsequently a deputation came
and gave permission and promise of pilots for our
going into the middle harbour on the following
morning. We found our way in and anchored. A
host of boats, with flags and canopies, accompanied
us, or waited for the grand event of a British squa-
dron visiting the port. A chain of small junks was
moored across the mouth of the inner port. There
are a Dutch steamer of war and the annual trading
ship close in, near the Dutch factory, on the little
island of Desima.
A party of Japanese officials visited us. Their
appearance is peculiar; their features resemble
those of North American Indians, who are consi-
dered to derive their origin from stray Japanese ;
and this notion is not out of the way, for our inter-
preter was one of a junk's crew cast away in 1833
on the north-west coast of America, after tossing
about 14 months or so. The mode of dressing the
hair is quite different from that of Chinese or Tar-
tars. The top of the head is shorn clean, the hair
of the remainder brought up to it and tied, and a
short tail, made solid by gum, is laid on the head.
The clothing is of loose silk gauze, of black or sober
grey, a loose-fitting robe round the body and legs,
with sometimes silk large-legged trousers, and the
feet covered with a cloth or cotton glove, with a
separate accommodation for the big toe, as a part of
the sandal fastening runs between the toes to the
instep from the sole of rice straw, which appears to
be worn by all classes.
Among the visitors there has been, I am told,
an artist, and he took slyly a likeness of the cap-
tain. They carry a pocketbook, and we have got a
peep once or twice at a plan of the port, or some of
the guns, which are very large 64-pounders, and
very numerous. All the visitors had in their
sashes a long sword and dagger. I got one to show
me the latter, and it seemed as fine in the temper
and edge as one of my amputating knives. The
hilts are curiously ornamented with gold and
bronze, and the scabbards are of Japan ware, or a
beautiful black and white shagreen. The curve is
worn upwards, and they will not show the large
blade.
On the first day I found one or two who spoke
Dutch, and I tried to get up a conversation.
Everything seems interesting about this place
and people, but they will not allow us many oppor-
tunities of judgina, for we cannot land at all.
. They have sent supplies of various kinds, with
fresh fish occasionally ; in fact, anything can be got
hut the ,shore. Our boats have had a little tripround tie harbour, and some of our officers found
two pits of coal, which appeared to be of good qua-
lity, and will add to the value of this place as a
" port de reldche." The scenery of this place is
charming. I have made some coloured sketches.
I hope to give you an opportunity of seeing them.
We are going to Jeddo is a clay or two; perhaps I
may find something to communicate.
Oct. 2.—Tho fear of our departure has induced
the governor to give us some supplies, with per-
mission to pay for them through the Dutch Go-
vernment—a great step in policy. We have some
good tea and rice ; pigs are coining instead of beef;
cattle are only draught, and the use of milk is un-
known, as in China. Wax candles are used, and
seem well made. The interior of the Loats is clean
and neat in all its arrangements. By what I can
learn, the population is about 40,000,000 ;thatonf
Nagasaki 70,000.
Oct. 3.—The Admiral was invited to land, with
some officers. I have the honour of an invitation.
We land to-morrow in five boats with the Land.
Oct. s.—Our procession started at 9 a.m. As
wejaDe near the line of junks moored across the
harbour a boat came with an official to request we
would wait until some grandee should arrive to
conduct us. Our premature or informal entry
would lead to the offending dignitary ripping him-
self up, as is the custom here in difficulties • and
the reason is that the loss of imperial favour' is
attended with serious consequences to the family
and children. Therefore suicide of the parent is
tile usual course adopted.
A brief delay set all right. We passed up the
harbour, admiring the scenery, bays, villages, and
cultivated hills. Two military stations and some
batteries were seen. We saw two large Chinese
junks ; crews and rudders on shore. The Dutch
steamer of war paid the compliment due to our flag.
The little island of Desima, on which the Dutch
factory is placed, attracted our notice. Our party
was received by the official body waiting on the
landing-place. Soldiers were placed at the side of
the square, and some with staves escorted us up
the street of stairs to the Governor's house. A
framework was placed for cloths of blue, with
-white designs, or white with black stripes, and
they seemed to be for concealment as well as orna-
ment. Guards lined our road, and we soon got
to the Governor's, and after a short delay wore
ushered into the presence of his Excellency and
the inspector of the province, Nodge Ivan Najo,
who is independent in his functions, and exercises
a. controlling power, as in the case of the Spiri-
tual Emperor and Kubo Sa,ima. Their are
rarailee and manners were dignified, the
Court dresses were very curious, and the silk
portion of rich quality. The style and degree
of politeness practised among themselves is so ex-
treme that it disgusted us considerably. The per-
sO eommunicatine between the Governor and
our interpreter were on their knees, and frequently
kviossiciaa, gthe- ground and speaking in a low tone of
.Afterff:a while they rested their fingers on the ground.
interviewout had ti we were taken to two rooms ;
officers notaef number of arm-chairs required for
other room. ° the Admiral's set, who were in an-
sugar, no milk used.
Tea was brought on small stands; no
pipes, tobacco l• In a short time trays with
ashes ; pipe efibr Ighted charcoal, and a pot for
some time a box onfasc ,ksmall ; stem, bamboo. After
was placed beforeae and sweetmeats, with chop-
sticks,
each officer, and was after-
wards sent oii board t
the lid by order. Again
ourere Ns alnactsedwebreefoarteteneadcehd
octagonal deal b
of us, the contents a
l
cakes of jelly, two rolls of
sponge
cakes,
two
and a sugar-fieb—ch al:).sweetw, two birds of flour
The name of the Go
psticks to eat with.
Kauai ; his dress a C 4 bla viernor is Melzono Chikfoono and sleeves, green silk gauze
ft overcoat, white vest
showing wrapper or troPuseicoat, open at the sides,
feet, which were covered
writs!sand reaching to the
shoes and sandals not white cotton socks ;
# worn in afternoon a suet pudding and the palace. In the
with large silver fork- paid syrup were brought,
and chopsticks, spoon (European form)
I had an opportunity of seein a
of pocket handkerchiefs, although per used instead
the latt •
er article
is in use when the heat oppresses, vent'ilation not
being attended to. Our gold watces
It appears that two hours of our timpeeased much.
makes one
hour Japanese ; the day beginsat 6
in the morning
and ends at 6 in the evening.
The politeness of these people •
very remark-
able,
,even among small officials ; if seated on
their
knees, as at Court, bowing to thespeak-
ing
ground or , a low tone, while the fingers resting on the
ground or matting; the •
being most abject in beinterpreter to the Governor
took place, and I was manner. A second visit
for a sketch. A heavy Pfeil:rare(' t° be in the boat
mission with all the boat's eiu obtained the per-
verna's house. I saw the landirnew to visit the Go-
interesting, and would forma googsic scene fora Which was
tomime or play. pan_
On our return to the boats white umbrellas
were
supplied to us, and we kept them, such being the
custom, which is convenient, as traffic is not per-
mitted.
I made use of my Flemish to inquire of the
Dutch interpreters about the doctors, but the
faculty does not seem to enjoy high favour, the
custom being a present of bronzes, &c., in case of
success, and thanks, or less, for bad cases.
There are proofs of
.smallpox prevailing here ;
and, as the climate is severe in winter, other com-
plaints must exist which would require something
beyond the vis medicatrix naturce. In cold wea-
ther the number of coats is increased, and they are
wadded with cotton-wool, as in.
also probably
in •
China. Charcoal is burnt brasiers in
the house.
In wet weather
the feet are kept dry on high pat-
tens of wood.
The supplies furnished to our messes are very
good. The soy for which
Japan is famous is cheap
e did not like the "raki," a fer-
mented liquor from rice ; the
and very nice. W
taste approaches that
of acetate of ammonia water.
On a little island appropriated for the recreation
of our Men we have found some eight or nine ferns,
some of which are curious, and I believe novel.
From time to time fish has been sent to the squa-
dron, but we could not be allowed to hawl the
seine, as our doing
8° might do a prejudice to the
s pop; inhabitants of the villages near this bay.
Cher -Abeep nor horned cattle b •ed here, the
Irevosh and vegetables • baurffe 1
have been
aloes
,s ;3tit =MO. are for plou2h*
g Ing• These ugly
great turn for running at English-
ipce-kr,ft.ii.it to the shore the guard-b°ata have
vi and much cordiality is a-
•
is
Cr-rd VasEibUgittle •
mew took place, Better refr
()dz.