The Sun.
London, England, 1855-01-05 00:00:00

A VISIT TO JAPAN.

(LETTER FIZOAI A MEDICAL OFFICER.)
NAGASAKI, JAPAN, SEPT. 25.
Our small squadron of three steamers and a fri-
gate arrived off this port on the 7th of September,
and were running in with all ease and comfort,
viewing with some surprise the number of batteries
and guns on all available points of defence, for the
outer harbour, when we found some boats anxious
to communicate a letter in several languages for-
bidding our entrance, and even verbally hinting
such things as blowing us out of the water. This
was at 4 p.m., but subsequently a deputation came
and gave permission and promise of pilots for our
going into the middle harbour on the following
morning. We found our way in and anchored. A
host of boats, with flags and canopies, accompanied
us, or waited for the grand event of a British squa-
dron visiting the port. A chain of small junks was
moored across the mouth of the inner port. There
are a Dutch steamer of war and the annual trading
ship close in, near the Dutch factory, on the little
island of Desima.
A party of Japanese officials visited us. Their
appearance is peculiar ; their features resemble
those of North American Indians, who are consi-
dered to derive their origin from stray Japanese ;
and this notion is not out of the way, for our inter-
preter was one of a junk's crew cast away in 1833
on the north-west coast of America, after tossing
about 14 months or so. The mode of dressing the
hair is quite different from that of Chinese or Tar-
tars. The top of the head is shorn clean, the hair
of the remainder brought up to it and tied, and a
short tail, made solid by gum, is laid on the head.
The clothing is of loose silk gauze, of black or sober
grey, a loose-fitting robe round the body and legs,
with sometimes silk large-legged trousers, and the
feet covered with a cloth or cotton glove, with a
separate accommodation for the big toe, as a part of
the sandal fastening runs between the toes to the
instep from the sole of rice straw, which appears to
be worn by all classes.
Among the visitors there has been, I am told,
an artist, and he took slyly a likeness of the cap-
tain. They carry a pocketbook, and we have got a
peep once or twice at a plan of the port, or some of
the guns, which are very large 64-pounders, and
very numerous. All the visitors had in their
sashes a long sword and dagger. I got one to show
me the latter, and it seemed as fine in the temper
and edge as one of my amputating knives. The
hilts are curiously ornamented with gold and
bronze, and the scabbards are of Japan ware, or a
beautiful black and white shagreen. The curve is
worn upwards, and they will not show the large
blade.
On the first day I found one or two who spoke
Dutch, and I tried to get up a conversation.
Everything seems interesting about this place
and people,deut they will not allow us many oppor-
tunities of judging, for we cannot land at all.
They have sent supplies of various kinds, with
fresh fish occasionally ; in facif anything can be got
but the shore. Our boats have had a little trip
round the harbour, and some of our officers found
two pits of coal, which appeared to be of good qua-
lity, and will add to the value of this place as a
" port de reldche." The scenery of this place is
charming. I have made some coloured sketches.
I hope to give you an opportunity of seeing them.
We are going to Jeddo in a day or two ; perhaps I
may find something to communicate.
Oct. 2.—The fear of our departure has induced
the governor to give us some supplies, with per-
mission to pay for them through the Dutch Go-
vernment—a grew* step in policy. We have some
good tea and rice ; pigs are coming instead of beef;
cattle are only draught, and the use of milk is un-
known, as in China. Wax candles are used, and
Seem well made. The interior of the boats is clean
and neat in all its arrangements. By what I can
learn, the population is about 40,000,000 ; that of
Nagasaki 70,000.
Oat. 3.—The Admiral was invited to land, with
some officers. I have the honour of an invitation.
We land to-morrow in five boats, with the band.
Oct. s.—Our procession started at 9 a.m. As
We got near the line of junks moored across the
harbour a boat came with an official to request we
would wait until some grandee should arrive to
conduct us. Our premature or informal entry
would lead to the offending dignitary ripping him-
self up, as is the custom here in difficulties ; and
the meson is that the loss of imperial favour is
attended with serious consequences to the family
and children. Therefore suicide of the parent is
the usual course adopted.
A brief delay set all right. We passed up the
harbour, admiring the scenery, bays, villages, and
cultivated hills. Two military stations and some
batteries were seen. We saw two large Chinese
junks ; crews and rudders on shore. The Dutch
steamer of war paid the compliment due to our flag.
. The little island of Desima, on which the Dutch
factory is placed, attracted our notice. Our party
was received by the official body waiting on the
landing-place. Soldiers were placed at the side of
the square, and some with staves escorted us up
the street of stairs to the Governor's house. A
framework was placed for cloths of blue, with
white designs, or white , with black stripes, and
they seemed to be for concealment as well as orna-
ment. Guards lined our road, and we soon got
to the Governor's, and after a short delay were
. Ushered into the presence of his Excellency and
the inspector of the province, Nodge Ivan Najo,
Who is independent in his functions, and exercises
a controlling power, as in the case of the Spiri-
tual Emperor and Kubo Saima. Their:ap-
teaTauce and manners were dignified, the
Conn dresses were very curious, and the silk
peewee of
oerich
quality. The style and degree
politeness
that it practised among themselves is so ex-
tretao
disgusted us considerably. The per-
sons cora_ .
mit wunicating between the Governor and
kiesin_l•eireeter were on their knees, and frequently
voice Van, ground and speaking in a low tone of
After thut:-T they rested their fingers on the ground.
ours the
we were taken to two rooms ;
e number of arm-chairs required for
office not
other roo of the Admiral's set, who were in an-
sugar m. T, no milk" was brought on small stands; no
tobacco
used, In a short time trays with
lighted charcoal, and a pot for
ashes ,; Pipe of°'brali
some time a boa of small stern, bamboo. After
sticks, was Place,
,ceake_and setmeats, with After
sticks,
each officer,
after-
wards seat on bouaelDafotand was
ou the lid by ordee. le us, as we wrote our names
to ; octagonal deal ain our wants were attended
of us, the contents boxesab, were placed before each
cakes ofjelly, two rolls ftock of sponge cakes, two
and a sugar-fish—cho ot. sweets two birds of flour
icks to
The name of the Governer eat with.
Kami ; his dress a black gauzeer is Melzono Chikfoono
and sleeves, green silk petticoat, overcoat, white vest
showing wrapper or trousers at, open at the sides,
feet, which were covered witilandh'reaching to the
shoes and sandals not worn iliwthite cotton socks ;
afternoon a suet pudding and e palace. In the
rup
with large silver fork and spoons were brought,
and chopsticks. (European form)
an
I had an opportunity of seeing
falthough s, paper used instead
of pocket handkerchi
the latter •
article
is in use when the heat oppresses, ventilation not
being attended to. Our gold watches pleased much.
two
It appears that t 1 of our time makes one
hour Japanese
and ends at ein; theth day begins at 6 in the morning
The politeness ofe evening,
even among small officials people is very remark-
able,knees, as at Court, bowing *if seated on their
ing in a low tone, whilenig.cetet. the ground or speak-
ground or matting, the interpreteringthe fingers on the
being most abject in his maoner, to the Governor
took place, and I was permitted .to 41) ascend visit
for a sketch. A heavy fall of rain obtained in the
boat
mission with all the boat's crew to visit ttli—elleP.-
eerna:s house. I saw the landing scene, which
was
interesting, and would form a good
scene fora pan-
tomime or play.
On our return to the boats white umbrellas were
supplied to us, and we kept them, such being the
custom, which is convenient, as traffic is not per-
mitted.
I made use of ray Flemish to inquire of the
Dutch interpreters about the doctors, but the
faculty does not seem to enjoy high favour, the
custom being a present of bronzes, Jec., in case of
success, and thanks, or less, for bad cases.
There are proofs of small-pox prevailing here ;
and, as the climate is severe in winter, other com-
plaints must exist which would require something
beyond the vis medteutrix naturce. Iu cold wea-
ther the number o
also probably wadded
coats is increased, and they are
with cotton-wool, as in
China. Charcoal is burns in brasiers in the house.
In wet weather the feet are kept dry on high pat-
tang of wood.
The supplies furnished to our messes are very
gc*d• 'The soy for which Japan is famous is cheap
and very nice. We did not like the " raki," a fer-
mented liquor from rice ; the taste approaches that
of acetate of ammonia water.
On a little island appropriated
for
the recreation
of our men we have
u
eight or nine ferns,
some of which are curious, and ' • novel.
From time to time fish haasna I believe
is
een sent to t e squa-
tdron, but we could not ue allowed to bawl the
seine, as our doing so might do a prejudicethe
poor inhabitants of the villages uto
Neither sheep nor horned cattle arellbred this bay.
food being fish and vegetables ; buffaloos here, the
have been
seen, but they are for ploughing. These,
brutes have a
men in China. Ve al_ great turn for running at E Y
Since our visit to the shore the
guard-boats have
been withdrawn; and much cordiality is displayed
in the visits. ye
A third interview took place., Better refresh-