The Sun.
London, England, 1864-01-30 00:00:00

THE SUN, LONDON, SATURDAY EVENING, JANUARY 30, 1864.

WMEET HERE CAN WE AF TER THE
PANTOMIMES ? My dear Fellow, Gentlemen sup
at E VANS', Covent-garden.

KINAHAN'S LLBRAAVNHDIISKY V. COGNAC,
This celebrated Old IRISH WHISKY rivals the finest
FRENCH BRANDY,
It ii Pure, Mild, Mellow, Delicious, and very Wholesome.
Sold in Bottles, 3s. Bd., at the Retail Houses in London ; by
the Agents in the principal towns in England ; or wholesale
at

8, GREAT WINDMILL-STREET. W.
Observe the Red Seal, Pink Label, and Cork branded
"Kinahan's LL Whisky."

ST. PETER'S ITALIAN CHURCH,
22, HATTON-WALL.

On SUNDAY, January 31, HIGH MASS, at 11 a.m.,
with full Orchestra.

Grand-Vespers and Benediction, at 7 p.m. Followed by
Rossini's STABET MATER.
The usual efficient Choir will be strengthened on this
occasion.

FASHIONS FOR FEBRUARY.

(From Le Follet.)

We have this month to notice such an extensive list of
elegant dresses, that we will only devote a limited space to
general remarks. At the present moment, ball and evening
dresses are of the first consideration. Low bodies are cut
rather square, or slightly in the shape of a heart. Thick
materials are usually made with round waists. Very wide
sashes are worn with these, tied behind, with double falling
bows ; the sleeve is made with a bouillonne of the same
material as the dress. The trimming of the skirt reaches
about half a yard up from the button—narrow flounces,
bouillonnes, bands of velvet or taffetas, lace, or chenille
fringe, are all in vogue. A net-work formed of chenille, or
with small hanging plush ornaments, is also worn; and fur
is as fashionable as ever. Tarlatane dresses are even
trimmed with bands of swan's-down, and the effect pro-
duced is both novel and pretty. Swiss ceintures and corse-
lets are still quite the rage. They are to be seen in so many
different styles, that all tastes may be pleased; but those
made with basques, and laced up in front, are, perhaps, the
most stylish.
Visiting-dresses are frequently made quite plain, with
merely epaulettes of passementerie, and aumonieres to
match. Passementerie is sometimes put up every seam of
the skirt. The skirts are made quite as long and fan-shaped
as formerly; of course the lower part much wider round
than the upper.
Sleeves are still very small and long; only just opened
sufficiently at the wrist to show the under-sleeves.
The convenient and charming little vestes, with under-
waistcoats, are as indispensable as ever. Those for morn-
ing are made of satin, velvet, plush, or even cachemire, but
always with the Indian chemisette of foulard; in the even-
ing, of course the veste is more elegant, and worn over a
chemisette of Yak lace, lined with satin of the same colour
as the dress.

Opera-cloaks made of light-coloured volvets, and trimmed
with wid9 fringe and passementerie, are very elegant. The
shades most admired are white, ponceau, or gold.
Our description of dresses commences with these appro-
priate for evening wear.
An azure-blue satin, with narrow flounce of white bugles
round the bottom of the skirt. An over-skirt of white tulle,
trimmed with white blonde, and caught up at equal dis-
tances with wide blue satin ribbon, spotted with silver. The
ribbons commence at the waist, and are finished off with a
bow and white bugle fringe. The body is made of white
tulle over blue satin, and the drapery formed of blue satin
trimmed with blonde. The sleeves—very short—also made
of satin, and trimmed with drapery and blonde.
A ball-dress; a skirt of very fine white tarlatane with
several narrow flounces, alternately of white taffetas and
tarlatane ; above these, some bouillonnes of tulle. The
whole skirt is covered in this way, and small bows of white
or coloured chenille are dotted about over it. The body is
made of white taffetas, with a plastron of white tulle.
A robe with three skirts of white tulle trimmed with
ruches over a skirt of ponceau satin. The body is of satin,
bouillonne with tulle, and the sleeves, which are made very
short, are also of full tulle. All over this.dress are bouquets
of pomegranate flowers with green foliage.
A dress of white crape over white satin, the crape skirt
forming a tunique, which is trimmed round pith white
blonde flounces. A trimming of peach blossoms finishes
the toilette.

A black velvet dress ; the body, sleeves, and skirt, have
bands of blue satin upon them, over which are flounces of
black lace. The body is cut in the Swiss style, and the
lace put flat over the bands of satin.
A dress of white tulle, with bouillonnes up to the
knees, and an under-skirt of ponceau satin. A flounce of
black lace nearly a yard wide is placed over the bouillons of
tulle, festooned with bouquets of pomegranate flowers. The
body, of satin, is covered with drapery of white tulle mixed
with black lace. Ihe sleeves are made to match; and on
both body and sleeves are bouquets of pomegranate flowers.
A robe of Indian red velvet; the skirt with a train, but
quite plain : drapery of white tulle and velvet on the body ;
the sleeves, bouillons of tulle.
A white moire, embroidered with gold and violet daisies ;
the skirt, training, is trimmed round with a thick rouleau of
violet velvet. This material, being very rich, admits of no
other trimming. The body is low, but worn with a chemi •
sette of English lace. The sleeves are so short that they
are almost imperceptible, but a trimming of English lace is
placed round them, and falls over the arm.
A pink satin dress, trimmed round the bottom with three
rows of white chenille fringe, with the ends formed of little
white satin balls ; body with a square berthe, with two rows
of narrower fringe.
A robe of white satin, trimmed above the hem with black
lace insertion put on in lozenges ; in the centre of each a
large black lace leaf, and between a smaller one. The body
is made with a round waist, a sash of black lace with wide
ends falling behind; small lozenges of insertion are put on
as a square berthe.
A white satin dress, covered with two skirts of tulle,
spotted with gold, the lower one entirely bouillonnee, and
the upper is caught up at distances by wreathes of black lace
leaves ; berths, bouillonnes of tulle : in front and on the
shoulders large leaves of black lace, grouped with roses.

A robe of white tarlatane ; at the bottom of the skirt a
flounce, put on waved, and headed with a chicoree of rose-
coloured taffetas; higher up, a second flounce. A ceinture
body of rose taffetas, piped with white, and trimmed round
with small rose-coloured tassels.

A sea-green moir antique, with two bands of black velvet,
pinked and trimmed with niches of white blonde.
A thick black taffetas dress, trimmed rather more than 15
inches up the skirt with wide biais band of violet and white
checked velvet, put on slantways. High body, with dia-
gonal bands from shoulder to shoulder. Sleeves with revers
trimmed to match.

A robe of black satin, with four thick wide ruches of the
same, edged with narrow blonde. The body has a cascue
cut up behind.
An emerald-green satin dress, trimmed round the skirt
with two wide bands of green velvet, separated one from the
other by an insertion of black lace, and each side of these
bands is edged with lace ; the whole of this trimming is put
on in points. The body is a Senorita jacket of velvet, with
a satin waistcoat trimmed with lace.

Robe Imp6ratrice of violet poplin, trimmed round the
skirt with a band of black velvet and a fringe of balls, which
reaches nearly down to the bottom of the dress. Basque,
and the bottom and top of the sleeves, trimmed to match.
A similar fringe, forming a square berthe, is placed on the
body.
A wedding dress of white satin, having round the bottom
a trimming of swan's down between 15 and 16 inches wide.
This dress is made with a train.

Another marriage dress is of white terry velvet,
with three wide flounces of English lace, each
flounce headed with a narrow band of swan's down an inch
wide. A plain body, with buttons formed of pearls about
the size of a small nut. At the top of the sleeves, a nar-
row band of swan's down.

There is little change in bonnets this month; they are, if
possible, more simple and elegant than those described in
our last number.

We begin with one of corn-flower-blue satin, quilted ; a
velvet ribbon, about an inch and a half wide, beginning
at each side of the crown, is fastened at the top in two long
bows and ends; two other straps of the same ribbon aro
brought from the inside of the bonnet to meet the bow. A
bunch of perriwinkles, in blue velvet, is placed across the
forehead : narrow strings of velvet to match the bonnet, and
wide ones of black silk.
A white plush bonnet ; the front and curtain edged with
plaid velvet, a large flat bow of the same, the ends trimmed
with chenille fringe ; the edge of the front trimmed with the
same fringe. Strings of white ribbon, edged with plaid
velvet. This bonnet is equally pretty if green or blue vel-
vet is substituted for the plaids,

A bonnet of pale green velvet, the curtain trimmed with
black lace. The front has a half wreath of brown heath, and
velvet leaves; in the inside, the same fhwers, mixed with
black berries. Blonde cap and green satin strings.
A bonnet of green royal velvet, the front bouillonne of
crape the same shade. The curtain of green velvet, lined
with white satin. On the grown, tufts of white feathers,
with aigrette of black lace. In the inside, a poaff of white
crape, with daisies in mother-of-pearl and bright leaves.
The dinner and evening coiffures are high, but coquettes
and artistic.

The coiffure rase is muchadopted this winter, and requires
d.
the ornaments to be worn quite on the summit of the head.
Amongst many charming hea dresses, was one formed with
a pouff of tulle on the summit, Siberian aigrette at the side
with a rosette of red velvet; a diamond butterfly in the
middle of the pouff. . .

A head-dress of pink rook coral, branches of coral cross-
ingoAthe back
u f hair, and falling in long strings,
white point lace, forming a chaperon, trimmed
ocoiffure
r r e

at the side with two bunches of crysanthemums ; a mara-
bout feather very light, spotted with white bugles, is carried
across the front, and falls over the back hair.
The toilette de bal, an elegant wreath of night-shade in
various tints, and made of velvet, mounted on real wood ;
or Watteau wreaths composed of pouff of roses, with bou-
quets of myosotis, and bachelors' buttons. Also a head-
dress of apple blossoms, mixed with gold wheat ears,

Jules Favre on the Mexican Expedition,

During the debate in the French Corps Legis-
latif on Wednesday, Mr. Jules Favre delivered a
powerful speech against the policy of the Govern-
ment in Mexico. The following report contains
the principal passages :
I have alwa3s been of opinion that the Mexican
expedition would give rise to serious embarrass.
ments, and none of the facts since realised have
given ground for a different conclusion. I will not
revert to subjects already exhausted, nor inquire
whether we could or could not have avoided war in
1861 ; but I will beg the Government to reply dis-
tinctly to the following question :—ls it not true
that at the time when our Charge d'Affairs in
Mexico was signalising the misdeeds of which our
countrymen had been the victims and invoking the
protection of France, an influence—that of the
Mexican emigrants who have taken refuge on the
French soil—was making itself felt in our policy P
Is it not true that, taking their own dreams for
possibilities, they ennounced that on the mere ap-
pearance of oar soldiers, an energetic reaction
would be produced in Mexico, by favour of which a
monarchy, akin to our own, might easily be raised
in the New World to propagate therein our prin-
ciples and our influence? A dream not entirely
devoid of grandeur, but still a dream! Well,
then it is not true that the French Government
placed these emigrants directly under our protection
so as to appear to transact business in their behalf ?
And not only did the French Government lend an
ear to these suggestions, but the Mexican emigrants,
before our intentions could be. known in Europe,
had already opened communications with the Arch-
duke Maximilian. I ask the Government if it was
aware of that fact ? It involves a serious respon-
sibility ; for it is to realise such projects as these
that the blood and treasure of France have been ex-
pended; (Adhesion from home benches,) The
Government should also give us information about
the negotiations with the House of Austria. Has
the Austrian Government approved of these pro-
jects ? for the responsibility of the French Govern-
ment at the point where these negotiations and
this protection, which we cannot now disavow with
honour, first commenced. (Applause.) Attempts
made by great States to effect radical changes in the
bosom of weaker ones are condemned by the law of
nations, and by all honest and impartial minds.
We saw in 1862 at the time of the debate
on the address what was taking place. We
foresaw real misfortunes arising from the-
expeditim that had been decided on ; we de-
manded that there should be no intervention in the
home affairs of Mexico, bat simply a claim put in
for reparation of wrongs. It is my belief that many
of those who voted against our amendment in 1862
now see cause to regret that there has been a devia-
tion from this simple policy. But in 1862 we ex-
pressed our distrust, and we informed the Govern-
ment that certain rumours had reached us, leading
us to think that the qaestion of an Austrian candi-
date was already on the tapis, (Dissent.) If you
dispute this, hear the words of the late M. Billault.
(Here the speaker read a passage from a speech of
that gentleman to the effect that a report having got
abroad that France was about to place a foreign
Prince on the Mexican throne, the Minister of
Foreign Affairs had contradicted the same.) Is
this clear enough, gentlemen ? It is, in fact, certain
that this contradiction was sent to the English and
American envoys. And yet the negotiations had
been opened before the departure of our troops—be-
fore the Convention of October, 1861. In the official
document you will find the whole scheme. Take the
despatch addressed on Oct. 11, 1861, by the Minister
of Foreign Affairs to our Ambassador in London. II
is said therein that the reparation of our wrongs can
alone form the object of an ostensible convention.
Ostensible ! Then there were conventions that were
not ostensible. The despatch adds that, in presence
of the American crisis, Europe might perhaps find
an advantageous opportunity for setting up in
Mexico a Government strong enough to resist in-
ternal dissolution. I should have nothing to say if
France were willing to respect the national will in
Mexico; but this will, in spite of official declara-
tions, has been, and is still, openly misconstrued.
And what have you found in Mexico ? Have you
found the country in the state described by the
emigrants ? The events of Puebla and the words
of bitter disappointment addressed by General
Lorencez t( his allies are a sufficient answer. (Here
the hon. member gave a short recapitulation of the
events that followed the capture of Puebla.)
Coming to the formation of the Junta of M. Dubois
de Saligny, he continued as follows:—'Phis junta
consisted of thirty-five persons—twenty-two of
whom had been members of former Governments
overthrown by Juarez. Those thirty-five bad the
charge of nominating 195 others; thus forming en
assembly of 230 persons. Now, can any serious
man have ever had a doubt about the vote of such
an assembly ? Its decision had been dictated
to it beforehand. And is it not an abject and
revolting spectacle to see .230 men with
no other mandate than the choice of a foreign gene-
ral, meeting together to make a parade of the mise-
ries of their country ? I hasten to withdraw my
eyes from the view. (Confused sensation.) The
Junta then chose the Archduke Maximilian. If
ever the archduke should come on the throne, I
hope he will be the model of princes; but certainly
he will have been the model of official candidates.
Thus we find this same Maximilian, not called to
the throne by the voice of the Mexican people, but
imposed on it by the special influence and volition
of France. France had occupied Mexico, and
French blood had been shed in streams. Let us
now look at the instructions given to Gen. Pony
at the time of his departure. His business was,
immediately after entering Mexico, to put himself
in communication with the notables of all shades,
and to come to an understanding with them about
the formation of a provisional Government, which
Government should afterwards consult the coun-
try as to the form to be given to a permanent
regime. Such were the instructions given.
Now the policy pursued has been widely divergent,
it has been the policy of a single party, whose
object was the destruction of the Republic.
Several hon. members have based their arguments
on the unconditional acceptance of the archduke.
But he does not accept it without restriction. The
Mexican deputation, extremely well received in
Austria; it did not obtain the honour of a personal
interview with the Emperor. I have read in the
correspondence of journals that when the Emperor
was questioned about his approval of the installa-
tion of his brother, he replied, "If my brother chose
to retire into a monastery I could not prevent him;
how then can I prevent him from going to Mexico ?"
The speech which the Archduke made to the Mexi.
can deputation has not had the honour of a repro-
duction in the Moniteur. Ho declared that his
acceptances would depend on the vote of the coun-
try; and that he would not give it without solid
guarantees for the future. Now, I ask, where is
acceptance talked of? What aro the guarantees
that you have given him ? Where is the vote of
the Mexican people ? Until these preliminary
conditions are fulfilled France has no right to
continue the war. We can be no longer told of
our national griefs ; the reparation has been
already obtained. But let us endeavour to ascer-
tain the will of the Mexican people. We are told
that its adhesion is unanimone, and the illoniteur
assures us that there is reason to hope that in a
short time a very large portion of Mexico will have
rallied to our flag. This is presuming rather too
much on the credulity of readers. The truth is,
that we are masters of the ground which is under
the wheels of our guns and the feet of our soldiers.
(Interruption.) We are told of triumphal marches,
of our soldiers being hailed everywhere as libera-
tors. All this may be true ; but I know that the
city of Guadalaxara resists, and that we shall per-
haps be obliged to lay siege to it. And if euch

PRICE .4d.
STAMPED .....sd.

military operations are still necessary, it can only be
because we are fighting against the cause of Mexi-
can nationality. Nor is it true, as has been asserted,
that all the centres of great populations are in our
favour. In the north and west there are other great
centres, and these still resist ; thus fresh campaigns
will be required, and we shall have to increase our
army to 50,C00 or 66,000 men. It was well ob-
served yesterday that we could found nothing
durable in Mexico ; and why is this ? Because
we have built on the support of a detested
party, a miserable minority in the nation—
the party of :`4liramon and Marquez. Now, who
are these men? Miramon is the man who com-
manded Marquez to massacre the prisoners of Tacu-
baya, amongst whom there was an English phy-
sician, and who waded to the throne through the
blood thus odiously shed, Marquez is the man who,
after numerous murder®, was thrown into prison
for carrying off 600,000 piastres belonging to the
English Legation. And when such men are found
in our ranks, is there any reason to be surprised
that the Mexican population should resist us ?
(Assent.) Certain sequestrations were made by
the French Government. They arose from the
necessities of the situation. The moment the Pro-
visional Government was set up, reactionary
pretensions immediately manifested themselves.
Every man sought to gratify his own rapacity. We
resisted, and General Bazaine caused an ener-
getic communicated note to be inserted in the
j Jarnals. Then what occurred? Two members of
the Provisional Government submitted; but the
third, Mgr. Labstida, the archbishop, inserted
into the same journal a protestation against our
acts, as being a violation of the divine law.
And we were obliged to use cannon to open
the gates of the cathedral for our soldiers.
That is the way we re-establish order in
Mexico. Such a state of things cannot be prolonged.
We take, however, special note of the declaration
of the French Government, that the solution is to
be pronounced in Mexico by universal suffrage. We
are told that there are 7,500,000 of souls. Let us
then remember this figure, and compare it with
the result of the vote. It is needless to add that the
voting should be entirely free and uninfluenced by
French authorities. Can it be true that the lessons
of history are always lost. Fifty years ago the
head of the powerful house which now reigns in
France had his Mexico also. He wished to level
the Pyrennees for the sake of a family alliance.
By a back-stroke of his hand he overturned the
Spanish throne ; then came the war, wherein the
heroic valour of our soldiers was pre-eminent, but
wherein all our victories were sterile. Thus did
the great captain see his legions sacrificed to an in-
terest which was not a French interest. But are we
safe at the present day ? We cad only be so on one
condition—that of keeping justice on our side, and
not rendering ourselves amenable, as in 1813, to the
charge of violating the right and falsifying the
promise of France. (Applause and sensation.)