The National Register.
London, England, 1819-02-22 00:00:00

tin inas3s,4 . gams
iode of cutinar► enjoy.netti, at a roo•lsntts expense ;
and to lay,opeo, to Mt, the fine tivours and subtle
relishes *Lich are now chiefly confined to the tables of
the litastrioss ; not that their expence is suds es to
,proscribe (or, as the Otalieiteons, a tolerably epicurean
1404, fit* savages, would say, to taboo, the use of 'heat,
pea persons of very moderate incomes ; but that, 24 the
Attest simple things are not a:ways the most obvious, the
~sorer of their Application is. in general, eontined
te those who imike it their profession to dive into
the *F4:1114 of good things, and minister to the gratifi-
Cation of the taste which it is their interest to render
fastidious.

In the course of compiling this Wurk, the Author
of it has shewa a fortitu te, which cousin to aoitie him
to a place in the Saint.' Calendar of the Almanac
des Gompaiatiadr, and a probity which all other experi-
ment:shots would du well to imitate, before they pre-
sume to give the pretended resalts of their theories to
e Public; with a perseverance " not to be subdued or
evaporated lay the ioniferuus terrors of a roasting fire
m the dug days." Thee: receipts have been written down
" with a spit in one hand. and a pen in the other ;"
stud with a etniscieutioussess which moot afford his
shun:luta gnitificetion in die retrospect. *Pers in:.
ceipt has been fairly and houestly suite* by himself,
before he admitted it to the honour of lkeiog- handed
down to p along with t t Gleam's, the Itaffahrs
the 11 eton'st the ti ritterson s, and other illustrious
worthies,who have sedulously eadeastoured to prove the
truth of thatdenuitioo which particularises man as a
cooking animal. Yet, notwithstanding toe reasonable
eyelid's)** Wads the sonacioustiaa of an upright in-
tention gives to alma offortaithis Most worthy "elfintr
of toe alouth," tar teem being led array bv a conceited
reliance upon thrZatilliluility of his owe taste, though
we doubt not shot he embraces every opportenity its
Lis power to refine and correct it, had the modesty sad
prudence to call in a select band of Irma, to assist
kits with their judgment upon every case ; and whom
he begoleave to thank for that activity and zeal io his
sei vice which made them, ".regardless of their wear
..and, tear of teeth and stontacla." exert themselves as it
" their labour appeared a pleasure to them." We
cat only assure. him, that su convicted are we of the
value of his coinssunications, and so shamed with hie
ingenuous and unaffected manner of iinoartiug them,
that should he ever have occasion for any additional
forts to his " committee of taste,' we shallkbe happy
to present ourselves et his board, armed with an ink-
horn, and a knife and fork, and ready to make our re-
ports,with that strict impartiality, and rigid adherence
to truth, by which we are anxious to have all onr,pro-
reeding% distinguished :--eseis revenons a sue sioattust.
After a prefacer highly seasoned with attic salt, the
author proceeds to give soateadvice to toasters, mis-
tresses and servants, whisibsoplay be perused, and prac.
tised on, to great inivantsee by all parties. Then
follow directions an the usual subjects, boiling, roasting,
bfrili s. frying, 04 so forth—but not given in the
usual style—the mysteries, And diffi.lities, and refine-
ments of each branch being simplified and elucidated
in a more perspicuous and useful manner than we have
seen befine in any work which has professed to do the
same thing : there are likewise (directions given re-
specting the choice of culinary articles, which will be
found very serviceable to yotini housekeepers ; anti by
attending to them -such expeoce will be spared to the
principals, and much trouble to the servaut.; —but the
very essence of the book is literally the essences them-
selves—the sauces, the fort:an:dos, and the gravies.
Here this •mdern Apieins comes in with all the at-
tention to modern gout that con be desired, at the
same t nie that he newer loses sight of that aft ntion to
economy which the pressure of the modern tines
teaches, however sorely AgAinst his will, in wine
measure, even to the Gourhsan-l. Our readers will not,
on a perusal of this tvork,withhohl from its author the
title which he so well deserves, of a " rational elicor. ;"
nor will they (limy that he has hotiotimhly aiviitte.l
}thnself of the laudable object 11” had in view, :Ll-
eorcii.ig to his own staitement ; when he says, Tile
mein business of book is, to tntrease the conifOrts of
riodtirateViniiiies, anti moderate Fortunes ; anti I have
taken as muesli pains to Ling the Enjoyments and In.
dulgemics of the most opulent within reach of tite.

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*went Ire more 17 witting the the ieel ustion.
Justly, tiltrotor*, • wedded to skit thanks of the
vire
numerous class irk his Work is dedieuted, (end
someruits, or tab, isaumerslole, will our readers allow
it t . be,when wit toil them it is soldressed to H tasteful
Palates, Keen Appetites, sod Capacious Stomachs."
eta imas3e,4 fur the {reins he kat token to encrease tho