The National Register.
London, England, 1809-10-01 00:00:00

FASHIOAS FOh OCTOBER.

The netre,.t arti7le9 that have issued from the manufactory
are the stripped siq.,aiets and imperial hombazeens ; gossamer
gauzes, Italian tiffanies, Totted camhries, and fine tamboarett
mirilins are still much worn in full dress. In' the morning cos-
tume the straw stripped muslin lus completely rivalled the..jae-
collet cambric, which is now chiefly confined to slips.ard under
dres.es. Shot and figured twilt sarsnets remain :n fashion-
able estimation. Our stuff and poplin manufacturers are exert-
ing all their genius towards the production of something which
shall vie in warmth and beauty with cloth, and which promises
to Itecome not only a subject of scarcity but monoply.
Little variety is ob•ervable in the formation of pelices and
spencers ; the principal article used in their construction is twil-
led shot sarsnet ; the faveuri•e assortment of colours is red and
green, red and brown, mazareen and red. Scarfs continue to he
much worn. and they have likewise assumed a more luxuriant
hue and texture ; we have noticed several iu bright jonquille.
The simple pelerine in white tiffany, lined with satin and trims.
ined with swansdown, is truly elegant. The round tippet in
pink, or white satin, with handkerchief tints, edged with laze
or swansdown, crossed over the bosom, and tied behind with at
how of ribband, is very genteel. Mantles in every possible
form are still to be seen ; the prettiest we have observed has a
wrapt front attached to the shoulder, and enutiped to the figure
by a sash passed round the back and brought to tie in a how
b efore.

Morning and walking dresses are still made high in the neck,
hut without collars; to lace up the (rant, :Inds trin.mcd round
the throat and wrists with a double row of shell lace.

In full ar evening dress, the backs of gowns are made square,'
and re as 7. high, without linings, let in at the bottom of the
waist with an essy fullness; the bosoms are worn low, and
shoulders much exposed, the sleeves long and mostly of lace;
(rains still continue a very moderate length ; the favourite sash
is of the bias corded ribband, tied on the left side with small
bows and long ends. 'We have noticed same few jackets and
petticoats, hut the Spanish costume has declined a little in ra...
vnur. We had an opportunity at a late splendid enter-ferment
of remarkin7; on a lady celebrated for her rank and beauty, a
dress which we consider worthy of distinction. It wa,s of
white tiffany, with an applique of white satin crescents round
the bottom and brought across the figure, terminating on the
left side, forming a drtipery ; the sleeves and bosom to cone-
spond, with a hemming of diminished size.
The straw bonnet, of whatever shape or dimensions, is ribs°.
lately discarded from all fieshionable promenades; the lace cap.
or au intermixture of satin and lace, maintains its superiority ;
we have noticed on one of our leadieg belles a cap of oriental
-ilk, wWO has the effort of embossed pheasant': feat!he•r-, eon-
fived under the cilia' by a Turkish handkerchief, the ends
hrou,-zht to tip in a rosette at the right side, ornaineincd with a
dsnti•tiara of Indian feathers.

The witching bonnet in pines satin anti lace, i, di,tingnished
for its airy elegance. Tl:e crown is in the cone form, made to
sit quite plain, and confined in at the back of the head by •
band of ribband. The fro;:t i, constructed of alternate striper
Lee and ribband, supportH by a light wlp. frame, hound over
with satin ; it is brought c!.)..vn more on the left side, ;slid tics
in a careless bow on the right ; and su2iciently raised from the
fare to admit underaeath a full short wreath of heath or ge-
ranium.

Four cows of blon 1, or ribband , in w hole plaiting at one edges
sewn together, forming a long rosette, and oyes caA on the
other wilt coloured chenille, called a ruche, is a favourite ad-
dition to lace or satin ear 4.

Tile prevailing colours for the season n re jongiti Ile, geranium,
rose, and mozarine ; the I;illionahle poi stores are red and gzaano
red and brown, red and blues atd amber sad whLb.;„

OCT. 1.

TO THE EDITOR OF THE AV4TIO.V4L REUISTER.

Illo—Noropoly whether in the abstract, or in practice,
has at all times been considered as the evil genius of I.Nitish
welfare and of British industry; as to every general rule
however, there are exceptions : so may some instances be
adduced in which monopolies are established and supported
fiv the laws, yet in no case whatever have they been per-
mated, except where a greater portion of public good
could be produced by limited exertion, limited as to its agents,
lint not as to their actions, than by the indiscriminate and
often futile attempts of contending speculations.
Such are the prieciples on which general monopolies can
atone be justified, for as to private patents for terms of
rears, they cannot be considered as auy thing but a fair
remuneration for the useful application of genius, and as a
stimulus to future discovery.
Whilst the interest of the public, and of the monopolists
go hand in hand, we have the best security for public profit,
and for the continuance of private exertion, but the moment
that the monopolist can command the market, and cents
;nand his customers, every motive even of self-interest,
receives a total change, if not absolutely in its nature, yet
most mulouhtedly in its application.
Such Mr. Editor are the unalterable principles, both of
the law and practice of monopoly, principles which you
may, perhaps, suppose I mean to apply to a serious sub-
ject--no such thing, Sir!—the public at thepresent day seem
do pay but little attention to serious subjects, but as they
are disposed to think serious!, upon light ones, we must
now apely the economy of eolitics, to the politics of the
play-hoese.
Our two Winter Theatres Sir, have long been induleed
with what they modestiv term a Patent, but which, in fact
'has to ,at) intents and purposes been a close monaedai. Let us
then apply our general priuciptes to their theatrical ma-
nagement, and et't, how fir they have fuliii!ed the tacit
sioereement by t.ii:rh they are boudd to the ? How
far our pebitc eehihitiens of late years 'have bias favour-
able either to puh!ic or to priyaie mantis, it: is unnecessary to
eurtire, well:Lye only to look at the plc.:), on the stage, and
the side play in the box-lobby; the question.of moral I.73Z-
proven, era being therefore set on one side, -we have merely
to consider that of general entertainnitnt. 7Now, Sir, it is
tree, that !Volker Goose was performed for many nights,
during successive seasons, to tesertloseine housos, and, so it
will always be when there are only two theatres for one mil-
lion of -spectators, many of 'whom I am afraid, Mr. Editoe,
have more money than sv:i, a cotrinlaint with which sonie
of your readers may imagine the managers at. present to be
also a little afflicted ; hut whilst Pan4suzine croe ds one
house, and Spectacle fills the other, with a new set. of
Caters each successive night, what is to become, not of
the judicious few, but of the judicions mane/ who would
always form the most respectahle part of a British andi-
ence, if they were to be treated with a little variety as well
as novelty.
If the Mass of the public must he amused by glitter and
mountebank tricks, iu God's name, !et Baetholomew Fair
be continned by particular de sire, and let those Managers
who perfer the superintendance of machinery to the deli-
neation of character he indulged in their most brilliant
wishes; but let our Theatres again be opened for effusions
of British Genius ; then may we expect that native talent
will again shew itself; when the plays which are written
have a fair chance of being actee, instead of being thrown
on one side, to make room for the grimaces of a clown,.
or the crude tratt3lation3 of some friend of the Managers.
It is not an unfair calculation to suppose that one-tenth
hart of the sum expeeded on a modern Pantomime, would
ave been considered as a fair remuneration for ten new
plays, during any winter for the last ten years; and thorgh
these
.plays could not all have become stock pieces, vet
there is no doubt whatever that they won1:1 have produced
ell, if not overflowing houses.
.So much that; Sir, for
the plea of great expauces 41 support of a rise' of prices.

have been led to these reflections by the very extraor-
dinary state of the question between the Public and the.
Covent-Garden Manager, a state which he calls an arbitra-
tion; really, Sir, it reminds me of the Irishman who de-
clared he would be married immediately, as he had already
obtained his men consent! for hew Mr. Kemble v. ill prove
that the Public have given their consent, .and yielded up.
their rights to his arbitrators, I am at a loss to decide.
We all know that gr. Kemble repeatedly offered to leave
the matter to arbitration, but we also know that this was
as often refused to be acceded to by the audieece. 'Tis
true, that since his last offer the:, have not expressed an,
repugnance to the measure, but why ?—llow, indeed, cola
they, now that the house is shut up, and the '1 lie4tliiC7ll
House of Commons is • prorogued ? In fact, Sir, King.
tremble's faithful Commons have now no °Clint. means left,
than to refuse the usual supplies on the re-opening .4t. the
Theatrical Campaign ; the only measure likely to produce a
beneficial result, it it could be accomplished without
ring the pains and penalties of a conspiracy. I am not suflici-1
entiy " learned in the law," to venture an opinion how far
John Bull can prosecute the Managers for a combinallOlT to
arise their priers; but I know, that however fair and honour-
able the character of the arbitrators, this cannot be called a
fair arbitration. What are they called to decide upon!
What, but the outgoings aad receipts, and to strike a ba-
lance which is to be calculated as a per centage upon a
nominal capital? This, however, is but a small part of the
question.. Can they enquire into the exorbitant salaries of
some of the performers, rivalling those of the highest
offices in the slate Can they enquire into the country
houses and bits of blood of all kinds of even the minor
performers, who cannot live unless they Lave Exemire
tacked to their names, instead of that more unseemly ap-
pellation which the rude language of the law would 4114
to them ? Can they enquire into the large sums paid .0
actors for translating, or altering, as it is called, from the
French, whilst real native genius-is chilled by neglect, amt
even by downright refusal ? No, sir, not one of the,e eas
they do, nor on any one of them have they a right to de-
cide, if they could:! 'Tis John Bull himself who has the
right to decide; the Managers are but the Trustees, raid
1, the Performers are the Servants of the Public ; the rigivt
of ju:lgltinent here, is one which John Bull himself has no
relegate; let us then have a fair mode of arbitra-
let our means of amusement be equivalent to the
denuind for it, and instead of houses being built on a cal-
culation of Low many they will hold, let it be calculated
how many they will accommodati; in short, Sir, let us
have another 'Theatre, placed so as to accommodate those
who reside at the greatest distance from the present ones,
but sufficiently near to receive iheir over flowings ; then,
Sir, shall w‘, have advanced one step nearer a fair and open.
ARBITRATION.

Mrs.clarke attended with her bad at Hick's Halton Wed-
nesdav, and pleaded Guilty to the Indictment of Mr.
Wardle.—As soon at it was known that Mrs. Clarke was 14
Court, a <rreat crowd of people assembled ou the outside,
and ou her going away after she got into the coach,
loudly huzza'il, and cried out, " Success to Mrs. Clarke
—No Wardle—So Political Int2ostor." Had Mrs.
Clarke delayed to put in her hail till after the Ses-
siun, she might have avoided taking her trial until the
Sessions after the next ; but by thus promptly coming.
forward, she pledges herself to meet the charge at
the next Session, and we understand glories in the oppor-
tunity it will afford her of exposin‘r, still further, the un-
uincipled conduct of her already disgraced accusers
The Wrights have also put in bail, and pleaded for the
Same. reason.
Twentieth of the present Month the *bole of the. STATE LOTTERY will
be drawn in. one Day.—RICIIARDSON. 6001AUCK, & Cu. respectfully
remind the Public, that all purchases in the present Lottery must be made before
the 49th Instant, as the whole Drawbur will be Ilac:ded in twelve Lours. Only
anoo Numtsers—Fotir Tickets of each Number. Capitals-4 of IN10,0on; 4of
stabgeo ;tof f of 41000; of /WO, BLe.. c. and not ititree blaults
to a prise.-1 skids and Shim on sale it tba old °Zees, :•orner (4 Bank
liuild-
lap, Cernisll; and facia4 the gate of the Likes alea.a. clatrrin-crtlis
?liii‘apossey GsteimArat, & Co.