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London, England, 1820-04-20 00:00:00

journey, and• it' getters! order to the farmer in his
district to give me eve* y 'moistener, t honk It he strong-
ly advised me to give up the trip, millets weals', on
many account.. be iroplempent, if not dangerous.
1 wits not. however. io amine of 'naiad to attend to
any friendly advice on this head, MD that at 3 p.
I took leave of him for my return to his boom, pre-
paratory to my journey., .
Soon after we set tout,• the; horses *hewed they
could cot carry us hack to Zwellendans, and we
were actually obliged to dismount and drive them
up the Kloof for several miles ; and when we, re.
mounted, we could not get them out of a trot.
My guide fortunately came by a much nearer road
back again through the valley, close uuder the
Bing. I was exceedingly tired MI my arrival. hoe.
ing been full ten hours on horseback. since the
morning. I found two gentlemen with our hostess
at dinuer, and both_of them spoke English. My
forcioduccd NI•40 Immo *hem osed Abeam to rem,
May 12.—The horses being much fatigued, and
the road before described to be hilly and bad. 1
deemed it advisable to purchase a third horse to
carry the portmanteau. It rained all this day. so
that I determined on staying the morrow also.
At three p m. I went to dine with the Secretary
to the Lendrost. who with his wife made the day
pass away pleasantly. He had been at Chingurili,
in Bengal, when that place was in possession of the
Dutch. and greatly preferred India to Africa.—
He told me, that corn. and a small quantity of
cattle, were the only articles of trade in the district.
He then described the different modes of land.
tenure. slid lamented. on the farmers' account, the
abolition of the Slave Trade. as slaves are for the
most part the cultivators of the land.
The Hottentots are averse to labour. require
high wages, and their number is comparatively
few. They were very numerous when the Dutch
about a century ago established themselves here ;
but from a mistaken policy they were early driven
by degrees out of South Africa. No encourage-
ment was given to sit increase of population, for
they were ism permitted to settle in numbers, nor
to keep their former flocks and herd.. The Dutch
cow. however, see their error.

The few Hottentots that remain cannot, ander
our Government, be forced to labour, ■nd require
from the Boors from half ■ ris dollar per day, be-
sides their food and drams. The non-importation
of slaves has increased their value ten-fold, and five
thousand dollars is now not an unusual price fair a
useful one. The consequence is, that the poorer
farmers are now obliged to do every thing almost
fur themselves. I have often found but one Hot-
tentot to cook and perform the menial offices, the
Boor and his children ploughing. sowiug, and eve■
leading their own oxen. The front pair of a span
of oxea in ■ waggon are always led, mid it is con.
aidaved the lowest oteupation. It is therefore very
distressing In those whn are obliged to du it.
As fair as I have been able t 3 judge, the slaves
in Africa are by no means that unhattpy ill-treated
race of beings, that those of the West bodies are
described to be. Here they are generally well
clothed, always well fed, have high spirits, tend ap-
pear to be a sort of privileged servants, talking
with the greatest familiarity to their masters and
mistresses. Their children are always brought up
with those of the house, and appear to enjoy every
thing in common with them ; as they grow tsp they
are taught different trades ; the females household
occupations, and modes to be waggoners, &c.
After their masters da3'a work is fioished, they
are allowed to work nut their own account. and with
their savings they in time purchase their freedom.
That there are instances of brutality towards them,
there can be no doubt, and sometimes indeed whets
a poor fellow has purchased Isis liberty, his msster
afterwards denies it, and sells him again. Such
monsters are to be found in every country, but
um of opinion, that, generally speaking, the slaves
in South Africa are well treated.

The town of Zwellesidarn is situated similarly to
that of Grace&le, and resemble. Stellenbosch iu
appearance. A stream called the Corn Laud River,
runs through it, and there is a small neat chapel
near; the wines., which are very had, are made by
the neighbouring farmers, who find a moderate sale
for all they manufacture, so that uo endeavours are
made to improve the quality of them.
May 28.—At sunrise I set offon my journey. but 1
had nut gone many yards, before my new purchased
horse shrived me pretty plainly by his kicking and
plunging, that he would not carry the portman-
teau, so that I made Casper exchange and mount
him. In about an hour, we crossed the Ball
Yaeth's River, a clear stream ; the load was goal,
and wound round the Zwellendinn Berg.
At ten we arrived at a farm house, where the
horses were to be baited. The owner was unfor-
tunately out, but some Flottentot women gave sue
a supply of bread, butter, and mirk, add as t had
tea with me. I made a good breakfast, after which
I remounted.

On leaving the bed of the Karnemelko River,
which was now guile dry, we passed on, and ►oon
afterward, crowed the Slang River, a dirty stream,
then the Davenuck's River, which was a clear um.,
and deeper than the former, though still fordable.
On its banks is the farms of Daniel Torres.

The Grotfather's (grandfather'.) bench's (woody)
Ben* •nd the Plat Klool; now heeded the mail,
and at tom we arrived at Peter Du Prie'a forte, on
the Krionshulta's Nivrr, diotaitt from Zwelleodvin
about forty miles. I was glad to rema►n here dur.
Mg the night, as I was pleased with the appearance
of the family, which consisted of a line hands ttttt e
old RAM{ a respectable old lady, and ►everal grown
mp sons and daughters. The old couple lied been
maned forty jeans, and had live sous and three
daughters.
Ito addition to the hospitality of their humble
board, which I gladly shared, I was very thankful
to my good old host for offering to lake care of
one of my harms that had hero hurt, at►d lending
me another to go as far as the ova farm, where
could procure a substitute.
May 22.-1 was awakened about five this morning

ling • hymo, as d
them for their kindness to me,
left theur'estrlv,, •
We caked the Krorabokle's River immeclostels •
after leaving the house, which was soon after fie
o'clock, agd in an hoer afteswatds we arrived at a
valley, virtue 1 first saw the otspearince of shrubs.
This led us to the Cracker Woof, a .trap osepoi.
from the .simmit of which we hikl s tine view of
the etteromitholg country.
. We now ;sound round the foot of the hills. lonised
Iwo farms, and shortly before nose arrived al the
Fat River, the largest stream' we had yet crowd 3
a few hundred yards from it is the hnnse of Jaeohoil
din Pries, son of the old man we had jugs spiss,,i.
We rode to the house mad unsaddled OF I.orww,
sis we had come • distance of fifteen MINA its is short
tube. It was here that I Prot foll..wed the Dutch
hums for meals, by di • g at II o'clock, which It
!Withal to 'Tree wish me better than our Enghais
ones. After dinner • Boscher's woman came ; •
she was scerely four fret high, had a Chinese face,
was naked from the waist upwind., mid alosgether
a most disgusting object; She said, that as I was a
stranger she meat kiss nie. and came mooing op 'a
embrace me, when I darted out of the door, so the
great amusement of the bitnters who were present.
My host hrsitsted in either selling or hiring a
horse in exchange for the else his father had legit
me; however, at last, he supplied me with a miser.
able animal at a dollar a day, with no agreement Na
pay him fifty dollars if I did tint bring him bock,
and live dollars is an adasisike'rif the lore.
The road from the Baths thus far had been very
good ; but it now become unplesessest t..r trAvelhvg
011, as Se had to pops owes a ensiti 111 l mosois of has,.
These were covered with the aloe plant, whit ti
grows from one to right feet highs snit has the
leaves large mod thick, like the pine apple
We were two hours before we ratite on a -
able level country, whets Oak Rossi!, she farm of
Legrance, came in sight. This is joist la-way b..
tavern the house we had left tonal Ss.y:naui'., and
here the horses should hate been rrsted ; but se
went on, and gradually ascended till.we came to a
fine plebs, and in two hours arrived at the farm of
Tiger Stostain, belonging to Cornelius Soymaii,
who, with his wife. rceived me very kindly. Its
the cosiverostion which emoted. old Seq.-nun wait
speaking very highly of the E•iglish Government.

• _
May 29.--It was late before Soyman awoke me
this monolog, hut ben I set off I promised the old
couple not to pass on my return without itoppirg
with them. The road again improved, and in half
an hour we clime up to the house of Mr..Darhouse.
In an hour further we came runotogst ■ collection
44 hilly, and ascending a very steep one; row the
Gruritz or Gous River, as it is pronounced, rolling
along in a broad stream at the tettom. We de.
scended a winding path leading towards it, at every
step of which new beauties crone in view.
The Perm. was wild and grand beynoil descripa
lion.' The False River here jaws the Gauritz. pit
itP hank war the miserable house of Sourmaii, and
on the opposite batik of the thorn! is the farm of
Eneas Myers, to which we worded over through the
stream. This river, by receiving in its course the
waters of many other ►t►eam., very often fruits
or the melting of the snow on the mountains, rises
many feet in the course of a few hours. and %saga
Koos are often delayed on its banks until it again
falls ; many who have hazarded crossing it have
been overturned. This river ii the boundary of the
Zwellendam aril George's Districts. •
A miserable breakfast was produced, and indeed
misery was so visible on all uroUU.I, that though it
threatened rain, I determined on proceeding for-
ward. We had now again to ascend and d recent!
several hills covered with the aloe plant. After
pooping them, we tarried southerly, and had a good
road, ►eeing the sea fur the first titue, about three
hours distruce to the right.
We came up to the house of Field Cornet Batto.
in about three hours. The family were all engaged
picking wheat, and though these were also a
miserable looking set, they cheerfully gave me what
they could supply, namely, some beiton, brad.
butter, end milk. The distance of tins place is
15 miles from the Gauritz River.

After the horses had had an hour's rest, we con-
tinned 011 our journey, and attired io the evening
at the house of Michael Myers, where 1 was-to stay
the night. The frow was the only person at home.
She was a very fine woman, and was now 'in aft
interesting • situation, weeping over • sick child,
who was lit a high fever. I now first regretted nut
having been able to bring my medicine chest, as
she had no medicines of any kind except au old
hall of rhubarb. Few of the farmers . niter have 40f
know ihe use of medicine. Nature is left totally
unassisted by Art. yet the deaths its South Africa
are. comparatively speaking. few, and lon con-
stantly see people far advanced in life possessing
all their faculties in perfection. It remains to be
proved, howevefi whether they would not even he
healthier and live longer. if medical advice could
be hail more frequent recourse to. ' • •
May 24 —We did twat leave Heel Rack valley
instil nine this morning, as my host lota ice that
the tide would prevent our POEM eriessing the Kleine
Braacke. lu about twenty minutes we came sip
to it. and crossed it easily, and -outs after ascended
a lull from whence we had • fine view of the sea.
rod the coast terminating on the east by a project.
ing Lind. round which Mossel Buy was said to be
•about two hours' ride.
We now met some waggons, stid were told that
the waters of the (hate Besake River were • higher
than the horses. We hoped, however, that they hod
clussed'st high water, and went on till we' otrived
isi au hour and a quarter on the litinks, the sow tie-
sight on our right.
Gaspar rude in first, leading the baggage homes.
The animals were soon obliged to swim bat my
horse bring taller, just kept his legs, the water
coming up to the saddle.
We had now to ascend a very steep hill. and on
gaining the summit blid a• fine view of the tun. .
rounding country and of the sea to the right of it.