The Express.
London, England, 1850-01-24 00:00:00

FRESH DISCOVERIES IN THE

ARCTIC CIRCLE.

THE SEARCH FOR SIR JOHN FRANKLIN.

The following report from Captain Kell*, of her
Mujesty's ship Herald, to the Lords of the Admiralty,
details the proceedings of the expedition under his
command, and some important discoveries made in
the Artie regions. The length of the document
obliges us to keep back • portion till a future day.
" Her Majesty's ship Herald, Nov. 22, 1849.
((Received Jan. 22.)
On the 15th of :sly the ships reached the anchorage—
off Chamisiolslaad—having run In 60 boon from the went end
of Rt. Laurence Island.
The Captain's report °patinae, :—Before my arrival two
boats had bten despatched for the Mackenzie River under
the command of Lieutenant Lee ; fortunately the 'Herald
hove in sight before it was too late to signalise to them ; the
beats saw the recall, and returned.
We commenced immediately on our arrive se coal and
provision the Plover, and by 9 a.m. she had on board all the
bread she could stow, half her coals, and a proportion el

. _
other provisions.
" July 18.—We were occupied in stowing Plover's provi-
sions and outs, removing officers, discharging objectionable
men, and filling up their vacancies from our own comple-
ment. While this war going en, I went with Commander
Moore and his acting ice muter to exsmine the different
bays on the out side of Cherie Peninsula for a wintering
station for the Plover. We found very shoal with in all of
them, sheeting gradually northerly towards the sandy penin-
sula. They were of opinion that if a vessel did winter there,
she would be greatly expreed, and, probably, on the break-
ing up of the ios, be either carried into the straits or shoved
up,,onAtto9 thp.embeaeh.boat
ships were ready to sail, but our main
cap having hem reported very rotten, I was detained the
next day (17th) to shift it.
" On each day of our stay we were visited by two baidus,
carrying twelve men each, all of 'hem were particularly
tall, well built, well armed, and without either their women
Of dogs.
"At first they were rather shy, but as soon as the inter-
preter began to speak to them in their language—that is, in a
dialect which some of them understood—they appeared de-
lighted, came on board, looked all over the ship, and re-
turned (after I had made each of them some trifling present)
without attempting to pilfer anything.
" They belonged to 13parareif Inset, and expressed their
delight at meeting with, said being recognised by, Lieuten-
ant Coo2er, and others who had visited them at their pace
last iear, making presents to them without seeking a re-
turn. . . .

"Commander Moors and myself accompanied them to
Chsmiva Island, where, after hsuling up their baidsrs,
canting them bottom to the wind, the weather gunwale
resting on the sand, the other raised about three tee-, end
support. d by paddles, the space and th covered with
furs' we partook of several pipes with them
"Whilst we were engaged with our pipes Commander
Moore employed hie boat's crew in digging for the flour
left by Captain Beechey 23 years before, in a position indi-
cated by directions on a rock, which were as perfect as the
day when cut. We found this rock last year, but, sup-
poling the flour to have been removed by the natives, did
not dig for it. A considerable space was cleared round
the cask, its chimes tread, only adhering to the sand by the
two lower bilge stares, yet still it requ.red the united
strength of two boats' crews, wits a parbuckle and a large
spar as a lever, to free it altogether. The sand was frozen
so hard that it emitted sparks with every blow of the pick-
axe. The cask itself wes perked, sound and the hoops
good ; out of the 3361 b. Gf fins. which it contained, 175;b.
was as sweet and well-tasted as any we had on beard. The
tin of beads was also found ; those not of glass much de.
Bayed ; the cotton stringing quite sound. .
July 18.—At 6 a m. we weigbed, with a B.W. wiod,
and stood out of the anchorage.
"July 20.—At 5 p. to. we anchored in 13 fathoms, with
Cap* Lisburne bearing N. 70 deg. 20 min. E. meg., distant
21 miles ; Plover and yacht is company.
" From this position two whale boats were despatched to
examine the coast northerly, under the orders of Lieutenant
Pullen (Plover), and Mr. Persons, second muter (Herald).
A boat was niso sat from the t'lover a short distance to the
southward. The Plover's boat returned soon alter midnight,
having landed in one or two places, and met with m.ny
natives, who were friendly and well disposed. A beautiful
deer night. At midnight the sun showed its sesaidiameter
above the bowie's, and nearly every person in the ship
remained up to witness this phenomenon for their first
time.
"July 21.—Weighed again at midnight, with a light
northerly wind ; the boats hove in sight at 7 a.m. At 10
they were alongside.
" Mr. Pullen had examined the inlet to the eastward of
Cape without poems. He was informed by the natives
through the interpreter that none of the inlets on the coast
would admit of a ireful entering them ; that it was only a
few of them, at the early spring, their baidan could enter ;
and they were closed when the winds began to blow from the
westward.
" We experienced in the ship until 6 p.m. of the 23rd
a tedious calm ; the current fortunately set us north, half a
mile per hour. During this time we were visited by two
baiden, with the same psrty of natives we had seen oft Cape
Lianurne ; they come alongside fearlessly, and disposed of
every article they had ; the women selling their fur dresses
(even to their second pair of breeches) for tobacco and
beads.
" During the evening of the 23rd ant the morning of the
24th we were running to the N.E , with a moderate S.S.W.
wind and a thick fog, g at intervals for a short time.
, Walruses, whales, and flocks of the eider duck about. We

were guided es to our approach to the ice by the temperature

of the sea.
" July 25, a.m.—The wind shifted to the N.W. ; brought
with it cold but fine and clear weath..r ; steering for Wain-
.. _

origin a Inlet, the vast numb,rs of walruses that sur-
rounded us keeping up a continual bellowing or grunting.
The barking of the innumerable se alt, the small whiles, and
the immense flocks of ducks confinu illy victor from the
water as we neared them, warned us of our approach to the
toe, although the temperature of the sea was sill high. We
made the land a little before noon, 10 miles to the northward
of Waiter:ghee Inlet. At two pm. we anchored in 11
fathoms, about three miles off its entrance. Toe Plover and
yacht had done so about an hour before.
" In running down along the coast a post was observed on
the higher land, near the en'raace of the inlet ;slimily alter-
weeds a man was seen to hoot on it (what we most of us
made out to be) a flag. The Plover soon afterwards dipped
her ensign (-imply to clear it as we afterwards learned); this
was answered by the person at the post doing the same, and
entirely removing it.
.• I immediately lowered • boat, and sent Lieutenant
Cooper, of this ship, to toe shore. He walked up to the post,
and found it t ) be nothing more than a native mark for a
quantity of blubber and reindeer flesh he discovered buried
there. The native had left. Lieutenant Cooper after re-
melting there some time returned on board without seeing
atybody.
My reasons for selecting this place to equip and de•
spatch the beats from, instead of preceeding as far north
as the ships should go, was, that I considered it of the
greatest importance that tree Plover's wintering station
should be known by the officer in command of the boat ex-
pedition.
" Commenced immediately to hoist out the boats, equip,
and provision them. While this was going on I despatched
Mr. Hill, master of this ship, to sound the entrance of the
inlet. He returned on hoard a little before midnight, and
made to me the following report :
" That the channel was very narrow and winding ; that
nine feet was the most water that could with certainty be
carried in, and that even to insure that depth the channel
would require close buoying ; hat a lair wind, or a cam,
so that • vessel might either rail or be towed in, was
necessary, the channel being too narrow and intricate to
warp through. Ones in, he reports that there is a sof-
Ileiency et water and • convenient spot for the Plover to
winter.
" From this report I found that it was impossible for the
Plover to eater this inlet with the wan r found there, but es
the en-rance was encumbered with some heavy pieces of lee
aground, wnich during our stay was breaking up het, I con-
ceived it very probable that alter they had disappeared the
chatterl might become more direct and d, epee; I therefore
determined to return, and make a closer examination of the
inlet se soon as I rad seen the ho its as far north as we cm d
reach in the ships. The IN ats were therefore directed to
wit Wainwright 'a Inlet on their return, in case it should
prove practicable for the Plover to enter, but that, under
any edeumetaidies, she would be found at Chiusano Island.
" Mr. Hill met there about 40 aatives, who were very
friendly et first, but when they fount he was about to leave
them they became annoying, pulling their bailers across his
bows, and fouling his oars, rut with any hostile intentions,
but simply to delay his departure, so that they might have
time to bidder with him fur mime of his riches.
" By midnight the boats were all ready, and shoved off
under three hearty Che,fll Iro u toe shags, which were as
heartily returned by the boats.
" This 1611- expedition enisisted of 25 persons, and four
beats, as follows:—Lieutenant Pullen, commanding the
Herald's 30404 pinnate, fitted oar board with the greatest
I care, thoroughly decked, 'A.m. r rigged, and called the
Owen„' furnished wi h pump*, spue rudder, end astrength-
(slog piece of two inch plank shove her water line.
Two 27 trot whsle boats, Hew hoes, brought out by her
Meisoty's ship Aide, from England, covered in abaft as far
as the backboard, but without either bozoes or eases, the pro-
visions being stowed, the bread in painted bags, and the pre-
served mute betw. e a tarpas li t s. The men's clotues were
Is hay rucks, e.psble of remora in a moment.
" Plover's pi nue, a half deekto b at, with cases for her
provisions, etc, so placed se to resist pressure from the ice.
" There was placed in the b seventy days' preserved
Otalllfor the whole party, all the other articles of provisions,
except bread, to the some extent, b. inef also soldered up
hs tins In ad titian to t enie, the Owen had on board
eight men's allowance of the regular ship's provisions
Alter she was stowed well this proportion, every corner that
would Ald • case of preserved meals was filled. The two
larger irate carried in leek of them five case of pemmican for
the special use of air John Franklin's party.
o The ships weighed in c .mpaey with the boats, and ran
aim the land within about three miles, with a moderate off-
shore wind.
" July 26.—At 4 aim. the ice could be seen In heavy
messes, extending from the shore near the Sea Horse Islands.
At 6 we were obliged to heave to in consequence of • dense
I fog, This cleared off at 11 30. The Plover was class to, but
neitler the beats nor the yacht were in sight.
" We both made sail, steering true north, and were at 1
p.m. in lat. 71 deg. 5 mla., where we made the heavily
peeked ice, extending nearly as far as the eye could reach

from N.W. by W. to N.I. At ibis time we bad soundlnp
la 40 fathoms mud—the deepest water we have had slam
leaving the Woad of Bt. Laurence. We matinued running
along the pack until 8 p.m., when, a thick fog coming on,
we ran two or three miles south, and hove to, wind blowing
from N.N.8., and directly off the ice. We had run along it
30 aides
tt The pack was composed of a dirty-coloured Ice, not
MOM than flys or el: Net high, except some pinnacles
deeply seated in the peek, which had no doubt been thrown
up by the floes coming la contact. Every few miles the
Its streamed off from the pack, through which the Plover
sailed.
- -

- -
" July 29.—At 1.30 the fog cleared off ; the pack from
N.N.W. to N.N.11., distant abate six miles. Made sail
during the forenoon, running through weenie of loose lea.
At 10 passed some large and heavy floss. Commander
Moore ounsidering them sufficiently heavy and extensive to
obtain a suite of snagnetical observations, dropped the
Plover through between them, and made fest with ice
anchors under the lee of the largest in a most seamanlike

manner.
" I landed an the floe, with Lieutenant Trollop.. The
latitude, time. and variation were obtained on it flat 71.30
N. ; long. 162 6 W.); but the other observations were
vitiated by its motion in azimuth, and by its constant break
leg away, the level would sot stand. We had 28 fathoms
mud alongside it and no current.
" I found the is driving slowly to the southward, with
the N.N.E. wind then blowing freak. Very few walrus and
but a single diver seen. The general height of this floe was
five feet, and about one mile is extent; on it were found
pebbles and mud, which led Commander Moore to suppose
that it tad been in contact with the land. I supposed the
mud and pebbles to have been feed remains dropped there
by some walrus.
"At 3 p.m. the nova slipped from the ice, and both
ships, with a N.B. wind, made sail westerly until 6 o'clock,
when we hauled up true north, having no ice in sight in
that direction, sad only from mast bead on weather beam.
A fine clear night, running along six and seven knots;
temperature of the water, 40 deg.; depth, 21 fathoms

flacreasi. DIN
At midnight the latitude was obtained by the inferior
passage of the sun. At 5 cm. the temperature of the
water had fallen to 36 deg., and almost at the same instant
the ice was reported from the masthead. Between this time
and 7 a.m. (when we hove to within half a mile of the pack)
we ran 10 5, so that I consider 11 miles to be about the dis-
tance that packed ice in this part of the world can be seen
in clear weather from a ship's masthead.
" she peck was of dirty coloured ice, showing an outline
without a break in it five or six feat high, with columns and
Omelet much higher some distance in. Although the wind
was off the pack, there was not a particle of lease or drift
ice from it; our soundings had gradually increased to 35
fathoms, soft blue mud. The only living things seen were a
pair of small divers, black with a white ball in the back, and
two very remarkable birds very like the female of the tropo-
cal manolf-war bird—a dingy blaek colour with excessively
Ir tag .ings, and the same flight when soaring. We could
not succeed in shooting any of either species. We remained
hove too off the pack for an hour. The temperature of the
sea near the pack at every five fathoms was as shown in the
margin. In the dredge we got muscles, and a few bivalves
co-smon to these seas.
" This was our most northern position, at 72 deg. 51 min.
N., 118 deg. W. The ice, as far as it could be seen from the
readtread, treaded away W.S.W. (compass), Commander
Moore and the ici maeter reporting a water sky to the north
of the pack, and a strong iceblink to the S.W.
It was impossible to gain this reported open water, as
the pack was perfectly impenetrable. The pack we had just
treed for 40 leagues, made in a series of steps westerly and
northerly—the westerly being about 10 or 12 miles, and the
northerly 20. We made sail et 9 o'clock cm., stewing For
the coast a little to the westward of our track up, wind N.B.
gradually decreasing as we got southerly.
" 5 e'clock a.m.—Fell • dead calm, the sea glassy smooth,
and so transpati nt that a white plate was distinctly seen at a
depth of 80 feet. This afforded me an opportunity of ascer-
taining the extent of damage the ship had received when n
shore in Awataka-bay. The forefoot was untouched, the
false keel gone for about ten feet—beyond this she had
sustained no d .mege that we could see: the copper broken
and excessively thin all over. As we approached the coast
we again met numbers of whales, walrus, seals, and flights of
ducks endue' birds.
" July 39, 8 e'clock a.m.—Packed in shore is eight
fathoms, close to the northward of Blossom's-shoals. Com-
mander Moore came on board and proposed that, during the
time I was surveying Wainwright's islet, he should go
along the cast during the fine weather as fur north as the
ice would permit him, end endeavour to communicate with
the larger boats, which we expected were somewhere ab .nt
ftefuee Inlet. With this intention we both started with •
fine but adverse wind from N.E.
" I worked on short tacks, close along shore, the soundings
in muddy bottom decreasing and increasing as we ap-
proached or receded from the land. Shortly after 6 o'clock
a.m. we again anchored off the entrance of Wainwright's
Inlet.
" Not • particle of the ice seen on our termer visit re-
mained. We had not long anch-red when we observed the
natives carrying their balder. across the narrow heck between
the t and the sea and launching them. Wishing to get
as many of them as I could off to the ship, so as to have
f. see r to molest me on shore, I detained the boats until two
of them came al loggide. Tries, aperoached us slowly, fre-
quently resting on their paddles, the bowman each time
invariably holding up his hands over his head at an angle of
4.5 &gee• a, when lowering them passing them over his
breast and stomach. I mule the boatswain do the same
from the forecastle netting. They always waited for his
answer before they recommenced paddling.
" I made them each • present of some tobacco sad beads
(which they could hardly understand that 1 intended to give
without return).
'• I left the ship with three boats, for the examination of
the inlet, and gave permission to the ship's company to trade
with the naives for whatever they had to disp.oe of, con-
sisting mostly of small figures and tools of ivory, bows.
arrows, a few furs, sealskin boots, and pieces of reindeers'
flesh.
" I hod not been long on shore before these natives left
the ship, and followed. Nothing could exceed their good
humour. When about to commence my observations I or-
der-d all trading to cease, drew a large semicircle on the
sand from water's-edge to waters's-edge, and placed the
boats' noses between its points. They seemed perfectly to
understand the meaning of this line ; not one of them at-
tempted to overstep it; they squatted down, and remained
perfectly quiet and silent. Winn a stranger arrived they
shouted to him, who no sooner understood them thar. he
crept rather than walked to the boundary, and squatted
amongst the rest. They danced and sang for our amuse-
ment, played football with the seamen (who had not a
chatice with them), and displayed their skill in shooting at
a mark. Plover anchored in company soon after noon.
Calm.
" Commander Moore went on shore, erected a mark, and
buried a bottle, with information of the boats. I had satis-
fied myself before his arrival that 10 feet was the greatest
depth that could be carried in ; I therefore called upon him
to tutnish me with a report of what his vessel could be
lighten. d to, a copy of which I have the honour to enclose.
" By it their lordships will perceive that, short of taking
the Plover's masts out, she could not be lightened sufficiently
to enter the inlet. Could it have been dune with any partial
lightening, 1 should have attempted it, being in every way so
very desirable a position—in the first place from its high
latitude, the •riendliness of the natives, the supply of rein-
deer's flesh we found could be obtained there, there being no
other herb cur south of it nearer than Kotzebue Sewed, and
lastly, the opinion of the icemsaters of the exposure to which
a yewl wintering in the latter place would he subjected.
Inside there is a good depth of water, and in one spot the
Plover might have been placed alongside a bank, well-
sheltered.
The natives gave me to understand that • considerable
river runs into it; at least one that they can in thi it bsidars
neeigete for many days, and that it ran to the S.E. ; that
on its banks, and in the neighbourtood of the inlet, the rein-
deer collected in great numbers, in their progress northerly,
and in their return south.
" The naives began to leave us, as before, at 8 p.m.,
tracking their fielders with dogs to their tents in a little
sandy hay, a mile north of us. By the time we were ready
to go off there was not one with us.
" I was sorry to find that, after all their good behaviour,
they had been guilty of picking the pockets of two or three.
One lost a handkerchief, another a glove, Commander Moore
a hex of cape, and the naturalist a small glass bottle, con-
taining spirits and water.
.• Weoeesday, Aug I.—During the night we bad a thick
fog, which cleared off at 5 a.m. The boats left the ship to
continue their r xeminseion; Commander Moore and myself
to obtain a suite of magnetical and other observations. I re-
turned to the ship shortly after noon with the boats to put
my work on paver. Commander Moore went up the inlet,
and found tome bidders that had just arrived with several
reindeer cut in quarters. They were stowing it with a
e nsiderahle quantity they had already collected in a hole
dug on the sand-spot off Point Collie, and appeared much
annoyed at their stow-hole having been discovered. It was
deep, and lined with legs of wood, having a roof formed also
of logs about fire feet above the ground, and covered with
moss. For a small quantity of tobacco they sold 8001 b.—as
much as Commander Moore's boat could carry. Learning
from him that they were willing to dispose of more, I sent
Lieutenant Cooper, the naturalist, and the surgeon, in •
light boat to purchase it; seeing the boat pulling in fast
directly for them, they got alarmed, and at length, before
the bust touched the beach, a woman walked to the water's
*dee and held up the bottle the naturalist had lost the day
before, making signs to him when he landed that it had
been picked up on the beach. It was in the same state as
when he lost it, the cork never having been removed
They at least understand that stealing is an offence. At
first they a; peered rather sulky, an-I unwilling to part
with any of their meat; after • few presents they resumed
their former good humour, and sold 14 quarters., ell of
them of >oung animals—it was without a particle of fat,
badly hided, but cull was owned by most on board to be
very sweet and tender meat.
" 9:11 of August.—ln the morning paned the carcase of a
dead whale, and another in the altcrnoon. I sent • boat to
this ene, stuck a flag in it, and buried a bottle, containing a
current piper, a notice of my whereabouts, and of my in-
tention to go westerly, for •he information of the Plover,
should she fell in with it. Many reports of land from the
masthead—a Isudhird seen.
Hayti g this favourable wind for examining the pack by
t
iheehwt westward,
until
atwthemcomutlournuiendg of to steer
the as
10th,h ighw as
when it fell
hewindawdoeumild
permit en the 'ho ird tack. The wind continued to
lcalm,

" fhe sea wu literally covered in streams with particles
of a pink colour, like wood uhes, or coarse rawduet from
cedar, a tenth of an inch long, and 0 sin diameter, and
round. On placing it under the microscope, no appearance
of circulation could be detected. Mr. Goodridge, the surgeon
of this ship, supposes it to have proceeded from the cameo

of the whales he saw yesterday, the oil having been forced
through the pores by the pressure if the water, gising the
uniform size aced shape in which we found it. I endeavoured
to dry some in blotting paper, but it was absorbed by the
paper, and nothing lett but an oily stain. Tried the cur-
rent, and found it running to the westward, one-third of a
mile an hour. Wolves grunting around in groups of eight
and tan together ; quantities of small pieces of drift wood,
all pier, which appeared to have been washed from some
beach. The temperature of the water at the surface in 29
fathoms was 45 deg., and at the bottom 43 ,leg. The dredge
produced (in soft blue mud) a good many mussels, starfish
(found in all parts of this sea), a few bivalves (got before),
and some very small shrimps.
" A light southerly wind sprang up, gradually increasing,
and veering to the eastward. At 10.30, alter standing to
toe S.W. for 15 miles, the loom of the land in the neigh-
bourhood of North Cape could be seen. I tacked to the
N. 8., with the wind fresh from E. 5.8.; not wishing to run
the risk of hang caught with a south-,aster between the
land and the ice floe, which I considered could not be far off,
front the extraordinary smoothness of the water, the numbers
of walrus, and particularly a little black aid woke diver,
which we never saw except in its vicinity.
" August 11 —Steering until this day in very thick and
bad weather to the N.B.' rat which time we were in lat.
70 deg. 1 min., long. 173 deg. 53 vain. B.re up north to
endeavour to fall in with the back. By 6 p.m. a dense tog
came on, we hauled to the wind on port tack under reduced
sails, chip heading S.E., with a short Jumping sea.
" August 12, a in.—The wind shifted suddenly to N.N.E.,
and afterwards N.N.W., blowing bard, re fined to treble-
reefed topsails and reefed foresail, our soundings having de-
creased t., 17 fathoms, mud. No observations. Our rat kon-
ing placed us in 70 deg. 20 min., 171 deg. 23 min., in 18
fathoms acad.

" ShOrtly after coon our depth decreased to 1G fathoms, the
colour of the water Incoming lighter, with a hr,,,k;„g sea
all round. Our sounding. decreased a fathom each cut
until 1 30 p.m., when we wore in 11 fathom. shingle, get.
ting in wearing 9 fathom. then 12, and when trimmed to
co back, as we went on, hied several casts of 8, aril one of
7 fathoms; then suddenly got into 14, which gradually
increased. The sun came out veriling our noon position.
Until midnight it brew a strong gale.
" A4gust 13, cm.—Fine; wore, to stand hack to the
shoal. Shoaled our water 13 fathoms, and at 10 1
I saw breakers ow the lee bow. Ship refused stay,; wore,
but had no It se water at midnight; passed over the tail of
the but in 8 fathoms, five miles N.W. of our termer poi-
Con. Continued to steed to the eastward until I could
weather the south end of the shoal; then tacked, yarii..g, in
16 fathom., three mike south of our first po.itiot:. u 1
bore up north to fix its western edge, a al.. ht east.rly cur-
rent took me rather further in that diretti •n thz.n I in-
tended. 1 have, however, confined it within a radius 01 rive

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which would bring a ship up.
"August 14.—We experienced very strong, variable, and
S E. bre. eta, with rain, until midnight of the 11th, whet
the wind changed to the westward, and brought with is has
weather. Cunttnued to stand to northward ante westward
until noon on the 15 h, being in let. 71 deg. 12 min., and
lung. 170 deg. 10 Lain.; bore up west half total, pas..eg
several pieces of drift wood. Our soundings increased aa we
lett the b ink (wes•erly) to 25 fathoms, mud.
" August 16.—Wind very variable in strength, ant direc-
tion SS.W . to S.E. leerge fl icks of phelaroeee, divers and
gulls numerous. At midnight wind very fresh from S.S.E.
steering W.S W. ; dep h decreasing to 10 fathoms.
" At 3 a.m. the 17th August, the temperatur, of the sea
suddeuiy tell from 40 to 36 deg. ; the wind hoc one lia: t and
excessively cold. Shortened mil, supposing that I was very
near the ice ; frequent scow showers.
" A'. 5 a.m. wind shifted suddenly from the N.W. is a
sharp squall with heavy snow. Shortly aft. r eiglet, when
one of these scow-storms cleared off, 'he pecked i ewes seen
from the most-head from S.S.W. to N N.W , five miles dis-
tant. The weather was so bed that I bore up for the ren-
dezvous. The weather, however, as suddenly eleareu up. I
hauled my wind for the north-wean en ex'reme of the ice
that had been sten. At 940 the extitine report of " Land
ho :" was made from the mast-bead ; the y were bosh soon
afterwards crowded.
" In running a course along the pack towards our tint
discovery, a small group of islands was rep cited on cur p,rt
beam, a considerable distance within the outer margin of
the ice.
" The pack here was not so close as I found it before.
Lanes of went could be seen reaching almost up to the
I group, but too narrow to eater unless the ship had been safe
ficiently fortified to force a hole for herself.
" These small islands at intervals were very distinct, and
were not considered at the time very distant.
' " Still more distant than this group (from the deck) a very
extensive and high land was remitted, which I had been
watching for some time, and anxiously awaited a report
from some one else. There was a tine clear atmosphere
(such a one as can .oily be seen is this climate), except in the
direction of this extended land, where the c. ends relied in
numerous immense es isses, occssimially leaving the very
lofty peaks uneapp d, where could be distinctly s- en co:urnes,
pillars, and very broken, which is characteristic of the
higher headlands in this sea—East Cape and Cape Lisburne,
for example.
" With the exception of the N.E. and 9.E. extremes none
of the lower lend could be seen, unless, indeed, what I took
at first for a small poem of islands, within tee pack edge was
a point of this great land.
" This island or 'idea was distant 25 mile, from the ship's
track, higher parts art the land seen not lees, 1 consider, than
60. When we hove to off the first land seen the northern
xtreme of the great land showec out to the testicle,: for a
moment, and so clear as to cause some who had doubts before
to cry out, ' There, sir, is the land quite plain.'
" From the time land was reported until we hove to
under it, we ran 25 miles directly for it. At first we could
not see that the pack joined it, but as we spprosche t the
island w • found the peck to rest on the ialaed, and to el-
-1 tend from it as far as the eye could reach to the E.S E.
" The weather, which had been fine all day, • ow changed
suddenly to dense clouds and snow shower', blowing fresh
from the south, with so much sea that I did not anchor as I
intended.
" I lett the ship with two bolts ; the Senior Lieuterent,
Mr. Maguire; Mr. Seemann, naturalist ; out Mr. Collinson,
mate, in one ; Mr. Goudridge, surgeon ; Mr. Pakenhem,
mids Allman; and myself, in the other, almost de pairing of
being able to reach the island.
"The ship kept off end on outside the thickest part of the
loose ice, through which the boats were obliged to be very
careful in piekieg their way, on the B.E. side, where 1
thought I might have ascended. We rooched the island.
I and found running on it a very heavy sea; the tint lieute-
nant, however, landed, having backed his boat in until he
could get foothold (without swimming) and then jumped
overboard. I followed his example; the others were sinuous
to do the same, but the sea was so high that I could nut
permit them.
" hoisted the jack, and took possession of the island
with the usual camel neje', in the name of Her Most Gra-
cious Majesty Queen Viceoria.
"The extent we had to walk over was not mere than la
feet. Fr em this space and a short distance that we scram-
bled up, we collected eireht species of plants; specimeus of
the rock were also brought away.
" With the time we could spare and our materials, the
island was perteelly inaccessible to us. This was a great
disappointment to us, an from its summit, which is elevated
above the sea 1,400 feet, much c 'uld hove b en seen, and all
doubt set aide, more particularly as I knee the mime t I
got on board I should be onliged to carry sail to get the
pack and out of the bight of it we were in ; neither c•oulit
expect that at this late period of the season the weather
would imerove.
" The island on which I landed is four miler; and a halt in
extent east and west, and about two and a halt north and
south, in the shape of a triangle, the w Stern end being its
apex. It is almost inaccessible on all sides, and a eoltd mass
of granite. Innumerable black and whit, divers (common
to this sea) here found a sate place to deposit their eggs and
bring up their young; not a walrus or seal was seen ut
shore, or on the ice en its vicinity. We observed here none
of the small land birds that were so numerous about us
before making the land.
" It becomes a nervous thing to report a discovery of lined
in these regions without actually landing on it, atter the un-
fortunate mistake to the southward; but, as tar as a man
can be certain, who has 130 pair et eyes to assist hint, oriel
all *growing, I am certain we have discovered en ext. wave
land. I thick, also, it is more than probeele that these
speeeanksbywetbsaew
nativesarea coorntcinjupeatiojnat th(ecolintgoefofAiletrnita.inns.
tannic by Baron Wrangell in his Polar voyages. 1 ri toreed
to t"e ship at seven p.m , and very reluctantly made all the
sail we could carry from this interesting neighbeurhood :a
the south-east, the wind at the time allowing me to lie just
clear of the Pack
" Aueuit 18.—Towards the morning we had a very ionic;
wind with constant snow storms and excessive co'd. 'Pee
wind having changed to northward, left me no choice ea:
to return to my rendezvous for the boats.
" August '2o.—Sighted Cape Listural in a thick toe;
hauled off to await clear weather; passed several c tea es
of whales.
" August 21.—At 2 p.m. Haiti made the Cape, found the
high land heavily covered with snow, and the low land pan
tially. Very threatening weather; remained off and on
until noon of the 23rif,wnen we anchored in 14 tathons•ate art
25 miles to the southward of the Cape. Here I landed, moms-
pealed by the naturalist and several officers. 1 erected a mask
and buried a bottle. A beautiful stream of water ran ice° the.
bay. The naturalist had a good harvest on its banks, which
were lit rally covered with. flowers, removed only a few wet
from what I considered to be perpetual snow. Quentittes
of
coal were also found here.
" There were ~bout 43 natives, all of whore we had ae n
before, very poor and n Curable looking, bur were friendly.
They all had their bows and quivers with them.
"Finding a line drawn on the sand so useful as a boun-
dary for their approach at Wainwright's Inlet, I stton hs
recounts to it, which they respected aa before. 1 tuat!e theta
all presents, and returned to the ship in the evening
before she was enveloped in a dense tug.
"August '24.—Weighed, with a light air from the
north-east, and Wear (h,d) weather; running for Post
Hope, where I Intended to build another mask, Li the
Player had not already dove it.

BRAZILS.—Thuret are Wee in Liverpool front Ito
de Janeiro to the 14. and Pernambuco to the 17th of De-
cember. From the metropolis there is no news. F.achangs
ruled at 271 d. In the northern provinces disatrocuou to tac
government was as rile as over' and further disturbance'
were anticipated. Eutaw, at Pernambuco is quoted e
from 271 to V.