The Express.
London, England, 1861-11-30 00:00:00

PISNIORS PO.l DZCZAIDER.

(From Le rotlet.)

Winter has come upon us suddenly, and with
such severity, that, before we hare quit* arranged our
article on autumn dress, we are called upon to devote our
attention to or description of the different materials and
styles more suitable to the present accompaniments of this
season of the year—frost and snow.
Two distinctly opposite styles will, it is said, meet with
equal success this winter. The skirts of dresses will be
worn either ornamented to excess. or—for there is no
medium—thoroughly simple and void of all ornament.
We can hardly realise this extreme of simpli-
city, (*penally as we find our el4antes wearing
flounces, souteches, and paiessineeterise of all kinds. It is
true that for an in-door dram a variety of ornament is
unnecessary, and eves inconveeimit, For "robes de villa"
of rooms the nee is quite different. One thing is certain,
a handsomely trimmed dress erM always Imre a richer ape•
Lansaw then Gee Seer so, torso Inaterhil be what it .a
The only diffieeky is to choose from the Mass offered fee
our eelestioe ; compriiiieg small gauffered flounces, reshot,
braidings, pasermeoteries of all kinds, tattoos serroueded
with lace or fur, coloured pipings, tassels, pompons of
frayed silk, medallions of velvet or silk embroidered in
satio-stitch, lace flounces or insertions, very narrow pat-
fared frills, bands of velvet or silks disposition, he. It
is impartible to name the thousand and one styles mel
materiels fee triismisig drawee.
Flames ere weer pot to the bottom of the skirt, sad
are placed together, or in rows with spoon Leween,
according to the fancy of the wearer. Many are placed in
twos or threes, end each set headed by a niche or hand of
colour. They are seldom pat straight round the skirt, bet
in vandykes or scollop+ The flounces are not hemmed—
they are either hewed or pinked.
Many dresses are trimmed en tanique, and it is wtheeted
that than style, being a becoming one, sa it gives height and
grams to the figure, will long remain in fashion.
The bodies of dresses are made either round or with two
points ; if the latter, the points in front are open. They are
closed to the throat, or open en carer, according to the style
of the material, or the purpose for which the dimes wee
Leigh&

Alpaca is .4W a favourite material with the Parisians, and
seems to he pinieg ground with the Eoglisb. It has the
advantage of falling in graceful folds, without so much den.
ger of cutting as exiats in many other fabrics.
Poplins, either English or Irish, aro much worn. Ted.
fells antiques and moires still maintain their leak.
Velvet. are generally trimmed with either reel
or imitated, in Thibet wool or frayed silk. It in a very
rich and soft trimming.
Foulards are much in favour, deepite winter. The
most fashionable are those with brown or grey grounds, sea
coloured Bowers. A white foulard, with coloured pattern
make. very i4eemat evening dress, and has the advantage
over tarlatan* in that it will wash.

Soutecheo and cords are very much worn. The designs in
which they are made are very rich and fantastic.
The skirts ore worn very fall and long behind, but rather
shorter is front than formerly.
Coloured petticoats are as much in favour for outef-dear
wear as ever. They are made in wools or droguets, in plain
materials, sod trimmed with wide banal ot velvet or
cakturod insdno i in cachenaire, with desigm printed to
imitate lame—this latter is hardly good rate; the most
;treit and expeosive colouted pettimata in black silk,
or with white or miser is various patters., in squares
seedallima
The met is set sit IreedeiloaLase Gerihaidi, bat
is ne erempaeled at
sonithi ; soma requires 'rimer r
nisiterield eispelenolt as
Choliogisvntiraie=islies. Minot or white.
4411Htriteee
the frost fie to the body, and the leek lost is largetweet box ;.
plaits, which fall from the elhookler .• the corsage is open
to the waist, and the skirt is owed horn the fastening at
the waist ; this style of dress, mode in velvet and trimmed
with Chinchilla or Amman, bill • very rich effect.
Limes of all kinds are much worn, both for dresser, boa-
tmen, trimmings, or for articles of outdoor opporel. Black
lace is much wort in evening dress, sad often acoompsoiss
white material. The colours most in me ~ perhaps sot
those most won, but at all overdo the mast el.pst sad
tatidenable, are greys in all shades, the Hamm brows, a
=shads of `roes, end a new shade violet of a very
age ; this list colour is an expensive one, Drew
from some difficulty in the premonition.
Evening dresses have hardly been decided on yet, but we
have noticed one or two very elegant ones ; they are (mo-
rally made of tarlataoe. Chambery gauze, and lace ; light
silks and satins being kept for older persona.
Silk under-skirts ace seldom worn; tarlatane or =Pr
giving • much more aerial and elegant effect.
Ilaetato are mach worn ; of all these,. the half.fitting
bearing is considered the most diatingure, and the most
habille ; it just falls lob the lines of the waist, without
being fastened, or tittiag tightly to it. Shawls made in
Wk, velvet or cachemire, lined with quilted silk, or tnmmed
with fur or tom, are very elegantly won. Braidiug is much
worn on all mantles or clout. ; some monies fitting tightly
to the shoulders, from theect falling in large plaits, trim.
and either only with a pelerine of lace, or eurrouoded with
broad lace. We noticed a very elegant Arab burnous is
lime velvet, and trimmed entirely with lam.
. _

Fur opera cloaks, the burnous is the most elegant, and
the most full dress If made in cachemire, they are em-
broidered or braided in white or some colour ; they Cr. also
made usatin, terry velvet, or in white plush ; this last is
very novel,
'the satin most be embroidered in satin-stitch; the ten
velvet trimmed with panermenterie or lace, and the plush
Is eurrourided with a large cord, and has a trawl at each
comer.

Chenille ornaments ere very fathiotiable both fur themes
end cloaks.

Ribbon of shaded velvet will be worm this whiter for
bonnets, black spotted with white, or violet with black
crowbars, seem the favourites at present. Artificial dowers
will be in great request for ball-drew t►ie wirier: they
should las mixed with lace, Almon, Cbartilly, Easlish.
blonde, Or :Oki and silver lace. They are placed either in
large detached bouquets, or in long branches on the skirt.
The bonnets made by our principal milliners are no loam
raised in a high point. They are distinguished from coin•
monplace bonnets by the fact of their being rather square at
the top, a, d very open at the sides ; they are still large,
but not so large as they were. The top of the cap is full
of flowers, or Nathan, lie., sad the Wes, of bloods or lace,
are very full.
The crowns are worn either loose or plain, and the cur.
tains of a moderate depth. Hossein Sr. generally composed
of two different materials—crape and velvet for full-dress
bonnets ; silk Lod terry velvet for those less dress. The
most fashionable colours are claret, green. Caine:in--a new
grey, the violet before-mentioned, and black mixed with
white.

THE NATIONAL PORTRAIT Gaitzar.--This gal-
lery is again open to the public in Great Georgentreets
Westmin.ter. The rooms have been improved by repaint-
ing, and by a slight addition of furniture. dermal portraits
have also been added, which are of considerable public in-
terest. and "men of their time," and of all times are be-
ginning to crowd the walls. Whitfield, the celebrated open
air preacher, is sees io a well painted picture by Wollaston,
addressiog his cram Lion from a low pulpit, at the foot 1
of which is seated a graceful young wows., whose draw
colouring, end simplicity of manner forcibly remind
the spectator of lbsmrth. The molest attitude of the
preacher contrasts effectively with that of the larger and
more important picture, recently acquired, of John WeeleT,
who exhorts instead of denouncing, and whose calm soft e
become additionally impressive after the wild and it
look of his associate and wandering coutempontry. .17in
Wesley is seen in the vigour of his life, at the age of 63.
Ilia long brown hair is parted in the centre, and Slows
down on each side of the face, giving au exprew
sion partly Miliaria and is some degree approach-
ing the type adopted by early painters in reprises-
tatious of the Saviour. It is totally unlike the por-
traits of Wesley that are usually seen. The picture,
painted by Done. is well authenticated. It came from the
family of the Wesley., sod has been engraved by Bland.
The agora is the size of life, nearly a whole length, and
standing, as if preaching. at the foot of a tree. His left
halal grasps a prayer-book, sod the right is gently raised
towatda Heaven. Both Whitfield and Wesley wear the
UM kind of black gown and bands, but the character is
totally differeut. A line marble bust of Lord Stowell,
formerly in Doctore-coennious, has also been added
to the collection. A very spirited and well painted
portrait of Sir Richard Arkwright, by Wright, of Derby,
lea been placed by the side of his obi frieod. Ih. Darwin.
The picture is very well knows by various engravings from
I it. It was, in fact, presented by Arkwright to Dr. Darwin in
friesdly acknowledgment. The gallery steadily' although
slowly, increasing, and the trustees have of late mainly
depended upon the fundsplaced at their disposed. The last
&nature they received was a portrait of the celebrated
I George, Lord Lvttelton. presented by his descendant. the
=d et loa. The
_galpiry sow mutates 133 portrait' is

There is great and general agitation in Warsaw,
on account of the resignation of the Marquis
Wielopolski.

The decree by which the Emperor accepts his re-
signation states that he is relieved from all his
functions until further orders.

WARSAW, Now. IL
The Council of State continues to discuss the
question whether civil rights shall be granted to
the Jews in Poland.

Notwithstanding the assertions of the Brealoner
Zeitutig to the contrary, perfect tranquillity pre-
♦ails in Warsaw and throughout the provinces.
Personal security is nowhere threatened.

TURKEY AND MONTENEGRO.

SCUTARI, Nov. 29.

On Wednesday last the Montenegrins attacked
fistalane, burnt Miriki on the Lake of Scutari, and
afterwards'prooeeded to the Leland of Tongemille.
Turkish troops have been sent against them front
Antivari and Scutari.

THE SHIPMENT OF SALTPETER
SOUTHANITON, Nov. St

The collector of customs has received a telegram
from her Majesty's government mien/whim not to
allow any shipment of saltpetre.

ACCIDENT TO THE STEAMER CONGRESS.
BOUTILUUTON, Nov. 99.
The Belgian screw steamship Congress, from
Havre, bound to New York with passengers' has
put in here with disabled machinery. Her boilers
are also defective.