The Express.
London, England, 1861-03-26 00:00:00

EGYPT.

OWN a COILIMSTONDLIT.)
ALEXANDRIA, Mews 13.
The following account of the illuminations here
to welcome the Viceroy on his return from Medina
may not be without interest to some of your
readers.

Before his highness's departure, as it was ex-
pected he would go to Mecca, it was feared his pil-
grimage to the Holy City would lead to a fanatical
outbreak amongst the Mahomedans during his
absence, and many tried to persuade him to give up
the idea. It is not strange that this feeling should
have existed, when we bear in mind the energetic
measures he has always adopted in suppress-
ing any such enthusiasm whenever it has
manifested itself amongst the natives, so
that under Said Pacha the Christians are safer
and have more liberty than in any other of the
dominions of the Sultan, and ikisa great pity, when
we look back to the desecration of the Mosque at
the Citadel in Cairo by some of our own country-
men, that so generous a prince should be treated
with ingratitude. It was also predicted that,
should he proceed, he would never return ; and
several of his friends advised him to relinquish
his intention. A petition to that effect was likewise
presented to him, signed by many of the govern-
ment officials, adding that without his pre-
wilco in the country they would not be
competent to carry on their duties ; those persons
were alertly very much surprised to find themselves
placed under arrest, and others appointed to their
posts. His highness, taking with him a strong
body guard, embarked at Suez on board one of the
Peninsular and OrientalCompany'ssteamers, which
was placed at his disposal. During his absence the
European merchants determined to make the neces-
sary preparations for a grand illumination on his
return. Notwithstanding the forebodings alluded
to, his highness returned quite safe, and on his
arrival at Cairo the guns were fired, the lamps were
lit, rockets were shot off, the people shouted, and
the pacha smiled his thanks. In the meantime the
preparations at Alexandria, being on a gigantic
smle, were far front being completed ; a deputation
went to Cairo and begged his highness not to
come down for a week, and he graciously
condescended to comply with this funny request.
The day fixed upon was Friday, the Bth inst. At
about noon of that day the guns announced to the
expectant people the arrival of his highness. At
an early hour in the evening the illuminations
began. It would be impossible to give au idea of
the brilliant effect of Ihe lights, but a few details
may not be out of place. The grand square (if that
which is not square may be called such) of Alex-
andria, in which many of the consuls and richest
merchants reside and have their offices, is about
500 paces in length and about 100 in breadth, and
until a few years ago used to be in a very dirty
state, and being under the level of the sea was
generally inundated in winter. Said Pacha, who,
to give him his due, is ever ready to accede to
any proposition for the improvement of the town,
authorized a French company to arrange it accord-
ing to a plan which was submitted to him, and he
I would pay all expenses. This company was also
permitted to introduce a supply of water into the
town under certain advantages to themselves. The
improvement of the square commenced about two
years ago ; some 130,000 dollars, it is said, have
been expended, but the works are not completed,
and perhaps Never will he ; however, the " place"
is better than it was ; the roads on each side are
improved, and the centre has been considerably
raised to form a promenade ; trees have been
planted, but the earth being impregnated wit!: salt,
they still present an almost leafless aspect ; at
night they seem so many ghosts doing penance,
with naked arms spread out as if imploring
mercy ; the illusion is completed by the appear-
ance of the place with its marble seats made like
horizontal tombstones. Altogether it is not unlike
a cemetery, and the whole is surrounded with pon-
derous chains. This sombre aspect, nevertheless,
did not prevent it from wearing a very gay air ou
Friday evening. In the centre of the raised
promenade a temporary kiosk was erected to
receive his higlimes. This was very elegant—
a sort of Aladdin's palace on a small scale ;
it was covered with draperies of all the colours'
of the rainbow ; and there was no end of mir-
rors, gilding, statues, candelabras, lamps, silk
and damask curtains, flowers, festoons, emit-
cents, stars, and beautiful carpets ; it was
two storeys high, surmounted by a cupola,
under which a European band was placed,
which astonished the weak minds of the natives by
playing Arab tunes in the most approved style of
monotonous melody. The fountains at each end
of the square were surrounded by upright poles,
and covered overhead with palm branches, flowers, '
and innumerable lamps. The water played, and,
being shone upon by the surrounding lights, had
a pretty-silvery ap ce. The ghosts (i.e., the
trees) were d up fur the occasion in borrowed ,
garments; their more flourishing brethren outside
the town gave them some of their superabundant
branches, and being gaily lighted up with !
coloured lamps tastefully disposed, bad a
charming effect. In the square were also
four triumphal arches, two obelisks, flaunt-
ing flags, Ac., besides other arches in different
streets, some of them very splendid, and all ex-
tremely elegant. One, erected by a Greek mer-
chant, was much admired ; it was supposed to have
cost 5001. To give a full description of the illiuni-
nation would take up too much time and space. •
A few particular,' will suffice. It must not be ima-
gined the inhabitants contented themselves with
lighting a few candles in their windows. Very!
extensive ornamental works in wood, gaily painted
and brilliantly illuminated, were erected in front
of almost all the houses and shops. Them were