The Express.
London, England, 1868-08-20 00:00:00

SWISS OUIDES.

Jr Britain preys upon the traveller at hotels,
Switzerland makes him wince by the misconduct of
her guides. The brigands of Europe seem to have
discarded their romantic dress, and to have donned
that of the simple mountaineer, to have substi-
tuted an Alpenstock for dagger and pistols, and
cunning phrases for stern threats. They rob by
chicanery instead of violence ; and they call them-
selves Swiss guides. The authorities of the Canton
of Lucerne published a useful memorandum at
the opening of the present season, admitting and
deploring the predatory habits of the harpies who
fasten upon travellers ; and giving useful in-
structions to the latter as to the readiest
mode of obtaining redress. This example should
be followed by the rest of Switzerland. It is not
enough to devise a tariff and to draw up regula-
tions for the protection of the tourist. The glib
assurance of the average guide soon degenerates
into dogged hostility if his attempts at imposition
are thwarted or exposed, and those employing him
labour under the disadvantages of partial know-
ledge and a wish for peace. It is a serious thing
to the tourist bent upon rest and change to have
his holiday converted into a running tournament
with unscrupulous adversaries ; and the fathers
of the several cantons, if they wish to
retain the steady flow of British gold, should
devise some means of protecting visitors from the
rapacity and rudeness of those who regard them
as so much loot. The following experience, told

in this ftiotning's /Vssaes, is • aff cepional only ip' its
culminating viclosace : • . '
Ou Friday last, Mt reaching the 111MantiGlacter HARI,
on my docent horn the Orimael, abottill a.m., I applied
to be booked by diligence to Brieg. I way informed
that the gendarme (whose office adjoins the hotel) was
the booking officer by the diliaele• if it pare. Upon ap-
plying to be bucked the gendarme informed me
that ho could secure me " a place," but that he
could not promiin the raga; as that might be
full; that be would , take the money (12k.) for
the eafp.,, and that if that was full he would return
me the difference between the charge for the romp"
sad
" a place." When the easdpartor de le pate arrived I CR-
plied to him for my place. He was far from civil, and
stated that my name was not on his bill, and that there
was no " place " for me. I referred him to the gendarme.
MI do not speak German I could not understand the
conversation between them, but I could see that the een.
&Weir bad resolved not to give me a place. I then asked
the gendarme to see his book, in order to ascertain the
names of the passengers booked some time after me, and
to discover whether they got places. My application to
the landlord of the Rhone Glacier Hotel (who spoke Eng-
lish, and at whose house I had dined) was without effect,
and I drew the conoltudon that it was intended to compel
me to stay at the hotel With° morrow, or hire a carriage and
pair tp Brieg.at the cost of 70fr. I went again to the
ecoldpettur and informed him that ai my " place" had
been guaranteed by the authorised booking officer, and I
had paid my money, I insisted on being taken to Meg.
I only obtained more incivility. When the time for start-
ing (2.30 p.m.) arrived, I perceived that several roittores
and not the ordinary diligence were about to convey the
passengers. As there were other carriages with horses
ready to start, standing with these roiturea, I should not
have been able to ascertain which of them were intended
to take the mail passengers, if I had not marked the
carriage two persons (whom I had heard say they had
booked through to Brieg) entered. I was in the act of
taking my " place" in this carriage (there were two an-
occupied) when the eondateur de la poste (a powerful fel-
low of some Eft. lin.) sprung at me hie a tiger, seized
me by the arm and beard (tearing away a complete hand-
ful, and thrust me from the step of the carriage.
There are few travellers in Switzerland who have
not had difficulties of this kind. The men who let
carriages on hire ; the hangers on at remote hotels,
and the worst class of guides, are all in league
against the tourist. Diligences are pronounced
full, or to have any destination but the one re-
quired. Hack fares are made to double the legal
tariff, and pourboires are gradually assuming the
character of a wage rather than a gratuity. It is
for the respectable guides and the authorities to
coaleeoe against the horde which is giving Switzer-
land an rill name. If full publicity were given
at all the hotels and posting stations to road
tariffs and rules, and if summary punishment were
certain to follow on extortion, such stories as the
foregoing would cease, instead of becoming com-
moner year by year.