The Express.
London, England, 1857-10-07 00:00:00

THE CAMP AT CHALONS.

cmtioNs, ales. 2.
The camp itself lies about three-quarters of an
boor's slow railway travelling to the S.E. of Chalons, and is
formed in the shape of an irregular square, upon one of
tholes viva and slightly undulating plains which characterise
this pert of Franco. Ito actual circumference, following its
irregularitiee, is forty-eight kilometres, and sane portions of
it are reckoned nearly three French leagues dissent from each
other. The whole of this iinnanea district has been perm,-
neatly purchased at various price. from aa low as 80f. or 90f.
to ea high as 4,0001. or 5,000 f. the hectare. A fancy of the
Emperor to shift the ground, and take in • portion of
rich meadow lend lying on the banks of the adjoining
streamla. involved an extra expense of some 80,0001. Hie
Majesty ie said to have expressed himself diesatidled with
the sine of his camp when lat first saw it matted out, nnt'l
his engineers laid before hits oemparative plans of it and the
Champ du Mal", when ho smiled and saw with satisfaction
that in this instance, at all events, he had twenty times out-
done his great predecease,.
The railway terminus at the camp end is fast presenting
the appearance of a little wooden suburb. Booths of every
sirs• and description are rapidly springing up. amongst which
" Chevet, jrunt," from the Palate Royal, towers above all
other caterers for the public wants, as much in magnitude
of proportion R. celebrity of name. A complete French
resteneant of large dhmmsio•s, end, need it be said. piers
to match, has been fitted op by this enterprising eAef of chefs
for the cleoemmodation of his friends the gourmets of Pori,

Humbler places of resort abound for lees delicate appetites and
slenderer puma.
The village of Mounnelon neat( lies nearly an hour's walk
from the Phalan; but the portion of the nommen), nt which
includelt the artillery no insincere no hen to within a
quarter of that distant tt: and ea ens teller', of recommendation
lay in those qutzlere, thather I Bret directed my int sperienced

sad somewhat bewildered f If • friend at court be
needful for full mama to a civilian , • friend at camp is not
lees no; end I doubt much whether the eorffiality of the
former can ever stead compesiems with that of the latter.
Certainly nothing can exceed the warm welcome to quarter,
of French officers in camp. The moms and one's own feel-
logs change in the tit nkling of an eye, and one is made to
feel that ono has found a home in the wilderness of tented
plain which oj/reads far and wide around. A distribution of
prima being about to take place to the men of the artillery
who had distingulehed themselves as tho beet point. qrs, I
found my friends in full togging, and wearing one of the
handsomest and most manly uniform, of the Preach army,
with that inimitable military wragge. r which soldiers of no
other nation possess in the wane perfection, and which indeed
seems to fit French officers no easily and naturally as thee
clothes. Nothing oould beat once neater, simpler, more soldier-
like, and at the same time snug and comfortable, than the
officers' qua: tern. Some even were approaches to a certain
degree of ornamentation and luxury. But of this I saw
more finished examples subsequently. A large men-room
bore evident symptoms of its capacity for administering to
the exhausted energiem of the body.
A keg stroll through the chief portions of the vast
encampment, though presenting nothing beyond the usual
features of the tield-life of the soldier, could not fail of being
interesting to a civilian. We first pniosieded to the spacious
atraby quarters, where • great amount of comp decoration
was promeding busily. Plots of ground were being
carefully laid out in firrate gardener.' style by some of rye
men who were skilled is such matters. Between them, each
regiment seemed eagerly bent on outdoing each other ie the
ere, lion of • met of trophy half runic, half military, com-
posed of turf. roek-wort, cannon-bella, flap &c., on the
summit of which was placed • bust of the Emperor. The
Empress was expected to arrive at the camp in the course ef
the afternoon, and all were anxious to give hw the best spe-
cimen of military tarn Here, also, many of the officers'
tents were beginning to be mres.Wed with beds of
flowers, or turf, or a few evergreens, and to ammo
a more homelike and permanent aspect. "Next year,"
every one _repeated, " the camp will be beautiful." French
officers, like French soldiers, can turn their hand to most
things, especially anything artistic. I saw severs' of them
employed in making themselves the plaster buds of the
Emperor, and Walling off portions of scroll-work with the
skill of a sculptor. They seemed to take a part with the men
In all that wee going forward, and to he able to do so without
Many way derogating from their dignity or authority.
A Wig scene, which can be better imagined than described,
was going on on all aides in that never-ending department of
• soldier's life as well as a milor'n which reinstate in a came-
leas course of cleaning, polishMg, rubbing, scrubbing, and
pipeaclaying every article of his equipment. Pollehed
mamma and helmets were being re-polished with a viper
which seemed always to detect some lurking got of runt;
whilst jack-boots and dazzling white unmentionables, bite,
emirs, sword-belts, and every other accoutrement, were all
alike undergoing the same endless proems. Plenty of amuse-
ment, however, seemed provided for each as had at last
arrived at the happy consummation of having nothing left to
"rub." Nut to speak of the inexhaustible resources of the
carmine (generally, I observed, placed exactly opposite to the
officer.' queries, and under their eye), skittle-grounds were
neatly laid out and in full practice ; here and there a niece of
a few yards square, surrounded by a shallow trench to keep
it dry, and • low railing, displayed hung around, all the
materials for fencing; another similar enelwore vise devoted
to single-stick, or is ramie, as it is term, cl. Music, of
coons,
in every form of tuition or practice, wee going on in
direction+, and resounding even among the distant woods,
whither parties had betaken themselvee to be out of hewing
of each other ; while dancing was pursued le ith • &figence
which promised well for the performances at the Tivoli de
Camp ImWrial, which I saw advertised in all directions, at
fifty ?animas trtrance for gentlemen, " entrance to ladies
free ; ' and spin • repetition of "no retribution demanded
from Wise," scooniewied by anotiee that "dame tense' was

„
” is rigurtir"
Strolling through endless rows of tents, exhibiting
amusing scenes of a soldier's occupations or hours of idleness
in peace, we reached the Imperial quarters, which, stretching
shag the slope of the southern or higher side of the encamp-
runt, command a charming view of the glittering white
of the plain below, with the villages, and
res
enclosing hills in the elk:tenon Confident* the native of
the material which formed so large a feato-e in it, the ex-
tremely powerful character of the scene was eint,Aarly re-
markable. Two or three prominent objects, perhaps, con-
tributed to this effvct. The frequent *tree of the village
churches, and that of Great lifottimekin in particular. aught
the eye in the evening sun, and, above all, the lofty WU-
coin, surmounted by its moss, of the military chapel or altar
where mass is performed on Sundays in the open air, crown-
ing, as it seemed to do, the entire bindeospe, spoke of
other aspirations than those connected with the tremen-
dous powers of destruction which lay maimed around. Long
trains of white and grey Arab horse*, some two thousand in
number, now excluively used to mount the regiments of
Chessman, d'Afrique, were also at this moment passing
slowly along different points of the plain in exercise, or on
their return from watering, and their quiet appearance, in
halter and saddlecloth only, devoid of jingling harness or
I dashing sabre, called up pastoral rather than warlike emo-
thins. To-morrow, I guem, the scene and its associations
will have vastly changed upon the spectator when the whole
i armed multitude shall have pit forth the terror of war is
their utmost mimicry in the performance of the grand.
' mentrurres appointed to take place in honour of the arrive] of
the Empress, and, as is generally anticipated, as the closing
act of the encampment for the simmer campaign of
1857. To prepare for an early start for the scene of
action to-morrow morning I must now lay aside these few
pages, very hastily scrawled after the long fatigue end
wanderings of the day. I hope to be able to continua my
narration of to-morrow's achievement, in time for insertion
in your number of Tuesday next ; but, if not, must delay
my account of them, as well ae of the ceremony of militias
MAW on Sunday, to the following week.
The Emperor and Emprces arrived just at unmet at the
Mourruelon station, in the gorgeous train prepared for them
hy tho company. An slat-major, comprehending Pelkeier,
Mullen, and a multitude of other marshals and generals
and their staff, met "tem es they descended from the car-
l'agea, and Loris Napoleon, followed and preceded by his
Cent Gerdes, end surrounded by a whole host of his captains
and men of war, with his Empires sitting alone by his side,
rode into his camp with a stati and pomp which bespoke
him the mightiest military monarch of the world, end with a
feeling probably in his own breast that he there for-id his
surest and Haut home. _ _

Csmess, Oct. 3.
The arrival of the Emperor end Emma' at the comp,
which I had time only to witness fora few minutes lest night,
was followed by extraordinary rejoicings and demonstrations.
The Imperial quarters were brilliantly illuminated by a circle
of moderator lamp', placed on elegant lamp-posts which en-
tirely surround the enclosure. The quarters themselves
consist of three principal pavilions of neat appearance; the
centre one contain, the sleeping-roome and Imperial cabfiset,
that on the left ,e the mess-mom, °retailed monger, and on the
right is placed the pavilion for friends and vititora. All
around Mend the tents of the sults end household, and, most
remarkable of sU the camp for their coquettish embellish-
ments and decoration., those of the officers of the Cent
Garde.. They are the /eau ideal of pleasant and cool retreats
in summer and fair weather. In front of most of them
the servants of this patrician corps have arranged little orna-
mental gardens and embenkments of flowers, fresh green
turf, rock-work, and fir trees, and sometimes also a exult
sort of rural grotto covered in with e5..13 sod imams, and
converted into a sort of "butlers pantry" for these luxurious
campaigners. The garden. springing up around, against
another year, and the situation of the place, such as I have
before endeavoured to describe it, commanding views of the
entire ernsmptinent, will render it anything but an unplea-
sant spot for rustication when Louis Napoleon has a mind t 3
relax himself for a few weeks in summer by playing the
soldier. In front of there quarters the bands of nearly all
the regiments assembled last night to greet the Emprees on
her arrival with their strains. A vast body of troops also ate
tended them with torch In hand, while throughout the length
of the entire line feta de joie, aocompenied with the salutthof
the great guns, airoke the night echoes with their mingled rat-
tling and boomiog. Under the infilleglee of a bright moon-
light—the moon being, if I mistake not, at the full, ths
scene, sa described, must have been as effective as animated.
All this, however, was lent to myeelf and many other,
enable to avail ourselves of the hospitality o Ifrieuds in the
camp and join their mesa, by. /mirth urangernent of the
railway people, who start their last train for Chalons, except
on Sunday., at 6 o'clock. It is worth remarking that the
Emperor has succeeded in establishing messes fur the officers,
after the English fashion, in all the regiments of the Guard.
This hes not been effected without considerable difficulty. and
I am told that the wealthier officers have generally been
obliged to come to the sill of their poorer brethren. and furnish
the funds neceesary for a Prat eetablishment, on the condition
of comae of being gradually repaid their advance'.
There iv no doubt that the Emperor'e object in introducing
changes of this nature is to more or illSl4 ariatocreeine the Fre
army, and so gradually gather round him a militar y
whom be may depend on to support Iris throne and dynasty.
Oar own word "mess" hr, been tinier silly adopted for this
novel innovation in the French army, and gives occasion
for numerous ridiculous blunders by bring confounded with
its emleeinericel cognomen. For immune, imaeine the Lome
of pious listeners in railway carriage, when an olliver tel
you rather loudly, "Nom Morons &woman de cm hew
paver ti la mese (.terse) !
ut to corm to the greeds morecersorce of this morning
and their incidents. Mounted on a finu-looliroar artiUvy
charger, kindly sent to the railway Minion. and le:lowed by
an orderly Sapper with a beard reaching troniewiere about
to the middle of his body, your correspondent flattened him-
self he cut no inconsiderable figure even on such a geld of
warrior, as the camp of Chalons. Only, perhaps. • Pow
fog regret crossed his mind for his own bawdier. thin sad
smooth-shaven upper lip, to say nothing of that unmistabs-
able air of civilinnient which always sits so uncomfertsbii
upon a non-military character under plinth, circumstances,
whether it be in en knglieb ball-room full of red coats or at a
French camp lull of red breeches.. The distance is.. gran hem
the inhabited portion of the camp to the Geld of manceames
that it takes a smart gallop of three-quarters of en hoar me
the wide and treeless plains and availing bills of Champion
to reach the field of action. Toe toil is of the rem pooled
description, and only joie enough covered with scrubby PP
to make it delightful for riding or eyolutions. The soak d
distance is so mot that vast troches V/ troops look only lib
eafrt u70,2e wide-spread plains and
".°Z,ieteStiatlt2looantr‘ckt
along a ridge not very different in form form the well knots
one in front of Mont St. Jean ; and the Emperor, 'wad in
trawl, and 'surrounded by his usual glittering staff awaited&
attack of his supposed enemy, much in such a position as thee
which wee owe en we 11 defended ageinat Ms greet uncle. TM
enemy, however, in the present COP wee emrpron Mous oven
in errs-trance, and the defenling array acted only as if they

saw their opponents. The has attacked the left win; and
• bresetwothe ware thrown up, sad wend and ineeksd
sant the moment the guns opened. Then the
atgq.p4 MN chewed to the mates, sad immediately the
@ninny frau' late • whirlwind to the frost, and retired
atyt4• re place to rapid charges of oathlry, which, proving
the whole lined hot guards " and at
dis" heeded by the lemma end hie staff, in puma.
Itg„ to the eye at lawn of a chilies', could be more beau •
fifth or rendly moving than thie Ira and stalely advance of
the line is portret order and prsciske, the bead* breaking forth
maidenly into a murk of wild sal triumphal strain. Many
ether seemingly perfect movement' in square sad echelon were
Via Womb ; admirable, doebdess, in execution, but, as I
Lent from remark. annuarros, not a little openly sad Imre-
swthelly criticised to point of command. I saw the smile
wwwwirr on more than one weetherbeaten face, which named
to tell that square. were well formed inleed, but badly aced
sad that b.tt.re thundered, and cavalry and infnitry
charged
or return at the not always the moat opportune monient. a
;
Emperor attar all the never ...et • squadron in the Sethi'
omit cm • find-day: and yet he will play at wildfire
1=1:of ha own bronzed warriors. He ethdaitly lints In
ticriation by doing so, and it may well be (loathed
whether ell this caropiog and soldiering in his own imperial
pence is altogether good policy is a case where personal
preitafe menu for so much. Notwithstanding hi. uniform,
Louis Napoleon look., like a bourgeon on horseback, sad at
ten to but lined to play the general on a review day in the
Champ de Yarn
The Empress, who accompanied, or rather waited for, him
on hornbook, looked as little fitted for her position as bar
imperial hothead. The place for the beautiful Eugenie is an
was cio.iags, sad tier most becoming dine the height of
Paritian fashion. She is evidently • timid horsewoman and
therefore sorthearily devoid of ease and grace on horseback.
For the greater portion of the " fight " she o t almost mo-
tionlems on her horse, with • groom at its head, and when at
bet she cantered along the line, her action nod movement.
wen ill sad formal. The othip (ail of the van army
~,tying homewards wroth the hills and plains to the en-
eerit, with bands playing, colours flying, and sunahlth
wee perhaps as Ina a sight se any which the day
I benne selltriently interned, In the tonne eves of the
few hears I spent then, in the camp and its gossip, to feel
sheen roofed at learning this morning that the trophies •
and ornamental motions ef rock-work, green turf, end caw
materials, eurenownted by booth of the Emperor, of which I
spoke yesterday, had been all suddenly ordered to be re-
moved. There is socuthincalelost cruel In this piece of
martial interhrenoe, when-one mw the keen pleasure officers
and rem nits took in displaying their taste and in-
genuity. Some of the poor fellow, had worked hell
the sight, hoping to catch the 'tithe and approbation of the
Empees over their handiwork, and one ollicerhad thooseda la
producing a real chef drawn of art in the shape of an cam-
mental heath and pedestal, intended to serves. a temparesy
fountain. All is ruthlessly ordered to he swept away; sod
Gass& St. lean d'Angols, aeon of pat of the Emperor, gets
the relit—.man of anthers say that he and LOW/
Napoleon together plan the mancetirres, without consulting
say the else, sad a pretty mess they tusk* of It l—Gmerdiers.