The Express.
London, England, 1868-09-29 00:00:00

P.481110N8 FOR OCTOBER.

(Prom Le Met.)
Tho long continuance of warm and genial
weather with which we have been favoured has caused the
sea-ssde season to be unusually prolonged, and has con-
sequently retarded the consideration of autumn and winter
novelties.

Shot coloured materials continue in vogue, and are
likely to be in great favour during the winter. Plaids are
also worn, the whole dress being made of the same
material. Fine woollen plaids are very suitable for the
sea-side. The form is very pretty. A paletot or loose
baaquine, with a large round pelerine, with a seam down
the beck to shape it to the figure. The pelerine is
trimmed round with a fringe to match the colours of the
plaid. Sometimes this is worn over a black skirt, or a
plain colour in harmony with the predominant colour in
the plaid.

Foulards will nevor ceaae to be worn. They are light,
yet firm. The foulard japonaia can be worn in 'armor
and autumn, and forma a complete costume. The under-
skirt trimmed with a flounoo. Short upper skirt. A
narrower flounoe and baaquine en paniors over all. A
pclertne " Montespan," or crowed [John, is worn over tho
body.

Cacheinires and poplins are abo being adopted for the
cooler days. They aro made in all shades, and aro very
beautiful.

The display of really autumn and winter materials is
very small at present, but some few specimens have been
seen, sufficient to inform us that velvet, satin, plush,
cachemire, splendid ladles, with stamped velvet in pat-
terns over this elegant material, and the plaids, half satin
and half plush, will be the novelties of the winter season.
We are returning to flounces and broche stuffs of the
time of Louis XV. And the bretelles of velvet, lace, and
fringe, with tassels, joined by stnipe across the back and
front, have also reappeared. Square low bodies, over a
high one in a lighter shade, are very becoming. The
"Pompadour" style is much worn.
The dresses are made round for walking, and with
trains for evening and dinner toilet. The style for autumn
is the upper skirt en tunique and puffed. Thu lower
skirt is tnmmed with a crossway flounce, with a heading
of satin lozenges, plush, satin braid, or gauffered velvet.
The upper skirt is a tunique, gathered up, and plaited on
the hips and behind, forming a large puff, sometimes like
a scarf, at others like the Perrette. The sleeves are
trimmed with bands of satin from tho wrist to the elbow.
The "Marie Antoinette" sleeves are trying for the asceu-
deney.
We observe that the sleeves of another colour than the
dress are more in fashion. The sleeves are always the
colour of the under-skirt, such as blue taffetas skirt and
shores, top skirt and low body black silk; pelenue of
black taffetas, trimmed with pipings of taffetas.
The apron is always to be seen, with the back of the
tunique so arranged as to form a floating scarf. Largo
puffs, with bows and tuyaux. The front is invariably
plam in this style of costume. Even the trained skirts
ere ornamented with tournure, basquine, or camargo.
There are some very pretty passementeriee being made for
the coming season, to be employed on the !abhors of the
skirts.

Bretelles of crochet and guipure de passementerie will
be used to trim the bodies of all kinds of dresses. The
Scotch plosives and Scotch velvet and satin are already
much in favour. Braids also are in great variety ; and
long and broad plaid satin Bothell are wont with black or
grey walking costume* and white evening dresses.
Close bonnets are Makinga partial reappearance. Black
lace, with broad strings and diadem of flowers and leaves,
will be worn this autumn. The fanchon is a kind of puff,
covering the back of the hair, and falls forward in front to
shade the face—a much more becoming coiffure for ladies
who have passed the first youthful bloom and freshness.
Hats are worn in all forma. The " Chasseur" is of
black, maroon, silver-grey, or violet felt, and very suit-
able for riding. The black felt is trimmed with a white
feather and violet velvet ; the maroon with a golden
pheasant's feather ; the sliver-grey with a silver speckled
feather ; the violet with a peacock's feather and bow of
violet velvet. The greater number of small hate are turned
up on the sides, and much trimmed with flowers and
feathers.

The chapeau "Freiachutz " is of grey felt. The crown
is rather high, with a narrow brim, trimmed with a
wreath of ostrich feathers the same shade m the hat. A
large bow of satin or velvet ribbon, with a little bird
nearly concealed in it.
The toque " Hongroise" is edged with feathers, fastened
with an aigrette and a small bird.
Black felt hat, with a buckle of stones, or representa-
tions of the head of a dog, fox, or stag, in gold, and oxy-
dine attributes of the chase.

It has become quite decided that there should be a
visible difference between the bonnet and coiffure de bal.
The new form, styled the "Berangere," is small, with •
raised crown, and the front larger than the diadem so
much worn. The chignon and curls are left free behind,
but the lace and strings, which are not tied but lightly
fastened, fall over the front of the body, forming quite
an ornament. Satin bows are worn on the bonnets
and give them a style in harmony with the dressed in
fashion. _ _

Black lace and coloured crape, to match or contrail
with the dress, are used for bonnets of the present sea-
son. Laos has the preference, as it is suitable with any
dress, by changing the dowers or feathers to match tho
colours on the dress.

We must not omit to mention that crinolines are still
Wean by en ladies who study grace iu the fall of the
dress. The indispensable increase at the top of the skirt,
through the rankers, compels the under-skirt to be sus-
tained, otherwise the very ungraceful appearance some-
times Ken of the lower part of the skirt clinging round
the feet is unavoidable. Of course, the size is greatly
modified, and the sign of good taste is discovered in the
proper isecautions of the crinoline to the height and site
of the wearer.

WEATHER ILEPOBT.-(I'HIS DAY.)

TVERDAT. SIFT. 29. 8 AJL

, Extreme. Bea
D. T. 'el W.
llto W. I H. I ta
it I IB Ir. D. • I
-- - -
Nairn 29.151 50 49 E. •6I 1 ' W. ebo, - 3
Aberdeen 29.121 .54 6.3 S. E. 1, 1 N.N.W. cx .0.16
Leith -
blurt&
Be.aboro, 29.11. 57 66 H.W. 6• 4 „El S.W. oe '0.99 4
Yarmouth /31.2111 60 liti 8. 6 6 B.W, 0.33
Nelda
Ardruman 29 ou f 55 r. 3 E. B.E. 3 4 • N.E. br . 0.40 3
Uretr.tholle 28.90 054 53 H. E. 3 B.E. ore _
liol)head 28.13111.56 5 4 8. 6 3 ; S. er, 0.96 -
Liverpool 19.06 157 64F.E. 3 3 ' H.E. co 5..00 8
Valenti& 28.76 1;61 53 W.H.W. 4 6 i ore 0.15 3
Cape Clear 28.76 1117 54 W.S.W. 8 9 S.W. re
.0.22 8
Roche's Pt 28 1.3 fr 4 H.W. 7 9 I S.W. H., 0.33 7
Penzance 29.11 411166 S.W. H 9'F. W. re . 0.21 7
Plymouth 29.20 1.56 55' S. W. s 9 S.W. c 0.38 8
Weymouth 29.26 r5B 56 S.W. I 8 :8I H.W. r 0.15 5
Porlemoutll 19.:a 11.157 W.S.W. 8 9 B.B' W. le 0.11 8
London 29.29 1.59 57' S.W. • 5 R H.W. t,re 814 -
C. Oria Nes 1'9.381'69 56' S.W. /4 S I H.W. ro !
Anat 29.31 Om bt B.W. 8 II 1 R9.E. ro 5
Lorient 29.40 189 67 W.M.W. 912 1W S.W. j !
Rochefort
bluetits • - S. 5 - - 4
Slzarla..lllg I - - - - -

igrus
Lyons
Toulon
Hriut'eroe

! I
W.S.W. to 0
H.N.W. 0 0.15 11

4.08 f
30.1 fin

0666'
61,64

3 6
1 1

Barometer corrected and reduced to 8l deg. M ee. level. The
letters r irieioai, f (falling), • (steady), indicate dinatioa of motion
of the mercury within Lea 14 how'. Thermometer exposed in
shade. Extreme form with Its direction during last 24 hours.
Z.—calm. Weather; ti.—blue sky ; a—clouds (detached) ;
2.--fog ; b.—hail ; I.—lightning ; (Lary) ; co.—overcast
(dull) ; r.—rain ; s.—snow ; t.—thunder. Rainfall, mow or hall
(melted), during last IS hours.. &a disturbance.