The Express.
London, England, 1851-05-24 00:00:00

LONDON, SATURDAY EVENING, MAY 24, 1851.

INTENTS OF THE GLASS PALACE.

of two sizes at 121.125.

and IW. 164. each respectively.
1..* In our notice on Saturday lust of the " woollen and
worsted goods," we inadvertently omitted to prefix the
name of Messrs. Brown and Foster, a. the exhibitors of
some Talpalque or goat's-hair cloth; cloth made of China
grass; some beautiful specimens of embroider•, &r., of all
of which we spoke in high terms of enninendation. The
same firm also exhibit the " commodore drill," some very
►eautiful fabrics for waistcoats, and a variety of new at-
terns for trowsers.

SHAWLS.
Without desiring to attach tho smallest blame
either to individuals or to '„tie superintendents of
departments we cannot but regret the unsatisfactory
manner in which the Grer.t Exhibition catalogue has
been prepared and arran•ga It would surely have
been better to have delayed its publication for a few
days, or to have streerseded the first issue by an
amended edition, ;.n preference to disseminating
hundreds of thou..ands of most erroneous and indeed
nearly useless vo%umes.
To prevent increasing the confusion to which the
above untowr.rd circumstance necessarily gives rise,
we shall cemtinue to notice the textile tissues and
fabrics in the order in which they arc found in
Messrs. Spicer and Clowes's work, though the refer-
ences there are only calculated to mislead, and,
we propose, in pursuance of that intention, to
invite our readers to follow us from the re-
gion :pf worsted and woollen at the south side
of the nave to the shawl department, situate
in the south-west gallery of the transept. The
different cases here arc many of them of tasteful
structure, and their contents are prettily arranged
and grouped so as to be displayed in a good light,
. and with some regard to the harmonious juxtaposition
. of colours. . . . .

SILVER WORK.
The brilliant array of wrought, chiselled, and
embossed silver-work now collected throughout the
principal compartments of the Great Exhibition,
seems to indicate that this noble art has been shorn
of none of its pristine lustre, since the days when
kings and princes, popes and cardinals, were sole
patrons of the handicraftsman. Precisely three
centuries have elapsed aim* the art of chisel-
ling silver was at its zenith. On looking
round and seeing the prodigious number and
beauty of the works exhibited, one almost
fancies that the many hammers which b,at
in such unison at the command of Cellini in the
" Petit Nesle," had never ceased to resound on the
banks of the Stine. England, on her side, strives
with the wondrous aid of science to keep up the
..lusion, particularly by the dazzling brightness with
which she invests the precious metals. In both Eng-
..,

The skilled eye of a connoisseur is not long in de- land and France will' be found tacit acknowledi-
tecting the excellence of the goods of Mr. It. Kerr, of meuts of the eminent fitness of the Renaissance
Paisley, which may be assumed as the most perfect styles of workmanship over all others especially the
specimens of this department of British art. One classical, which is just at present under a complete
cabinet, enclosing a neat model of a shawl weavers ban. If we inquire further into the possible
loom, contains some really beautiful productions causes, from which have arisen the present taste for
in great diversity of graceful patterns, chiefly imi- all that appertains to the sixteenth century, we find
tenons or combinations of the designs of Caslinicre. that, as has ever been the ease, the minor arts are in-
These are of course susceptible of endless variation, fluenced by the prevalent taste in architecture; as it
to suit the taste of different denominations of pur- is a fundamental principle of ornamentation that the
chasers. It is curious to observe the diversity in this component parts which serve to adorn any structure,
respect even in different parts of this metropolis. o'ol its furniture, should necessarily partake
Thus we have in this one case shawls intended for somewhat of its character. To Mr. Chenavard,
able
1 shops in the eastern and western districts of tronised by the late Duke of Orleans, and an
ILondon, not varying greatly in texture and architect, the French ascribe the honour of driving
quality, but !marvellously contrasting ill ex- them out of the classical slough in which
ternal appearance; whenceit would
.seent that Gallic art was so long imbedded. The British silver.
those who, in the eastern districts, array smith, on the contrary, has seldom allowed himself
themselves in this species of apparel, delight at the to be influenced by ate fluctuations of fashion, but
same time to deck their persons in dazzling hues ; has steadily, perhaps too steadily, adhered to time-
while, on the other hand, the fair denizens of the honoured traditions and old sculptural forms. We
western regions seek for quieter and less brilliantly fancy we recognise the hand of Flaxman even to this
coloured drapery. Every spectator of refined and day, with its pure but somewhat quaker-like concep-
cultic:dial taste would, in accordance with this view, tions. One cannot be too thankful that the human
immediately select from the extended bale of Mr. and vegetable kingdom should have been the only
Kerr's ('aslimere shawls, two perfectly snow-white, source of inspiration ; and it is difficult to conceive
with a delicate filagree border of green and rose, as all the vagaries and waste of metal, which the
the purest and most pleasing of the whole, thout straight lines of our perpendicular architecture
in all probability a much more rapid sale would and its Flamboyant traceries might have led
obtained for some of their gaudy neighbours. us to. But if timidity has hitherto been the
The cashmeres of Messrs. Morgan, of Paisley, may besetting ,A„. there is at present rather an
be classed next in order of merit to those of Kerr ; opposite tendency, which is evinced in the some-
indeed, it is only a very practised eye and hand that what audacious rejection of all wholesome rule. Sit-
would venture to assign precedence to the latter ver is expanded over large surfaces, and made to
house, so closely do these celebrated manufacturers branch in large chandeliers which would have made
vie one with another in the beauty and softness of the old artificers stare at the lavish expenditure of
their fabrics. Messrs. Robertson, of Paisley, exhibit the precious metal. We believe it is no exaggeration
cheaper qualities and showier patterns, as do Messrs. to say that the compartment of Messrs. Hunt and
Burgess, amongst whose shawls. we must not omit to Itoskell, late Story and Mortimer, alone contains no
notice particularly two; one with a white, the other less than three tons' weight of silver. Nowhere was
with a centre of cobalt blue, both surrounded by a the pressure greater throughout the whole of Satur-
deep border of Indian character and of very chaste day, arising in a measure from the 1* 'ted width of
design• the gallery, than round this compartment, which
Descending from these again, we come to a por- contains, besides jewellery, the precious stones ob-
tion of the southern wall, decorated by Messrs.. tained lately from the collection of 11. P. Hope,
Holmes, of Paisley, with every tartan, whether of e a.•
arl., at such an enormous outlay.
Highland or Lowland elan, from the Royal :quart It is almost a relief to turn from the precious
to the more homely Buchanan. The texture of these stones whose intrinsic value escapes mental evaluation,
shawls is fine, and we apprehend from their appear- to the more tangible merits of human workmanship.
luxe that they are woven from Scottish wool, Contrasted with the bright and finished groups in
with an admixture of Saxony; to the feel silver, two works, executed by A. Weide, in mingled
they are very light and warm, while the brilliancy iron and silver, stand out prinninently by their sub-
of their tones naturally attracts many beholdera• clued tones. The first is a shield, which; though' as
Among these, of course, are a large preponderance yet unfinished, promises to be a most exquisite piece
of our northern friends, many of whom we of traleesed workmanship. It represents Sluik-
observed indicating with pleasurable exultation the spore, Milto.:, and Newton. surrounded by their
chin-tartans they were proud to call their own. embodied emir:options. 'flu: style of the figures is al
Passing from the woven shawls we come to those singular medley of Raphael and Buonarroti's designs;
which have received their pattern by block-printing.Rua is, rather *calling to mind the conceptions of
Swaisland of Crayford, stands pre-eminent in this the great Italians than closely adhering to them.
department; the beauty and variety of his produe' The tame may be said of the " Vase of Etruscan
tions may indeed challenge ecanariso' ri with any form," also executed by the scum artist, and repre-
house. Messrs. Gen and Macheire have also brought sorting Jupiter hurling thunder at the Titanic host.
this branch of art to high perfection. The anatomy is worked our in a manner which
Of the cost of these articles we may give some would bear extension on the largest scale.
idea when we inform our readers that one set of yaws, salvers, and centre ornaments, presen-
blocks to produce a shawl exhibited (the value of
which is probably between 255. and 305.), cost the nation cups, &c.. fill up the remaining portion.
Messrs. It and S. Garrard shine in bellicose groups,
proprietor upwards of 5001. Nor are the new
patterns among the woven shawls brought out with- executed mainly in entire relief by the able designer,
Mr. Cotterill, who has identified himself with '
out a large expenditure. We understand that Mr.
bull fights, boar hunts, and hunting
meet-
Kerr entertained at one time the intention of ex-
hibiting a magnificent shawl; worth from the labour logs. Ever full of spirit, his groups are some-
times marred by a want of finesse in'
to be expended upon it at least 400/., but was de-
terred from doing so, in a great measure, in souse- detail-work; Mr. (lateral is too much at the mercy
lof the polisher; we need only point at the otherwise
quence of the heavy duty on pa lor, which would pleasant performance of the rider entrap
have ndered the pattern so costly, from the era- ping the I
re
wild home by the latsu. A perforated chandelier
!noise number of cards requisite to produce it. attracts as much notice by its size and polish as the I
Messrs. Jamison and Banks and Messrs. Webber a iieu,„„y
and Hairs have contributed some very flue silk testimonial" by its massive effect. In the
printed shawls. assembled
company are of engineers whose portraits
Messrs. Roxburgh have contrived a novelty for here gracefully collected together, we fancy we see
the heroes of speed, which has its tardy counterpart
this season, in the form of a circular shawl, which in the progresses of Omen Elizabeth, who is eve-
has a light and graceful aspect. Similar shawls of
this form arc to be obtained at Holmes's, in Regent- dentiv a favourite with the silversmith. There
are 'two effigies of her ; the first has been
street somewhat modernised by B. Marochetti, for Mrs.
Messrs. Kerr and Scott have two magnificent Hancock, who has other meritorious productions on
silken shawls, one white and one green, of new de- view, The next, of somewhat exorbitant dimensions
sign, but displaying the combination of many Indian for silver, has been worked under the direction of
patterns with which we an! familiar. Mr. Morel, from the great seal of the time. The
Messrs. Rowat, of Paisley, have some beautiful way in which the minutia of dress have been worked
latrge shawls, and Mr. John Baird, of the same show how far embossed work may go; those who
place, shows great taste and simplicity in the are curious in technical peculiarities may notice noti with
arrangement of his goods. They consist of white satisfaction that there is no trace of. subsequent
shawls of Chinese silk, delicately but most elaborately soldering, her Majesty being daintily fitted, as be-
embroidered by hand. Three dresses of fine French scented her precious person, on the barb or state
merino also similarly adorned. horse. Her weight is considerably above a thousand
Messrs. Forbes and Hutchison exhibit a beautiful ounces. Mr. Morel also exhibits a centre piece of
black shawl, embroidered with crimson, as well as children playing with panther, which displays
one of scarlet, and one of ultra-marine blue, both cm- all the fancy of Poussin in the juvenile attendants of
broidcred in white. Bacchus. The frosted imitation of the flesh texture is
novel and pleasing. Caps of agate and lapis-lazuli of
Messrs. Blakely, of Norwich, display some elegant
unusual dimensions, and convivial weapons show corn-
lace scarfs, and some shawls of beautiful design, but
blind taste and art.' As defenders of the powers of
we think that the patterns scarcely equal those from
electro-metallurgy, -, Messrs. Elkington and Mason, of
Scotland. course' reign supreme. It is well known that in
Every one passing through this portion of the cm- the ordinary methods of electro-plating it is usual
hibition pauses to admire, amongst
.the chan.ning to construct a plated article as far as possible from
specimens from 'Messrs. Towler, Carom'', and C. 0., of plated sheet metal, while the edges and ornamental
Norwich, a magnificent rich white silk grenadine, so parts are completed by soldering thereto parts either
beautifully embroidered that the work will bear the stamped in plated metal or in silver. By this method
searching scrutiny of a powerful lens. of manufacture the design must necessarily be
Mr. Hutchison, of Paisley, is the patentee of a limited, being confined to such ornamentul forms as
very ingenious machine, to be seen in this portion of could be produced by stamping or otherwise fashion. I
the "gallery , whereby patterns in cheeks, stripes, and ing sheets of metal. The pernicious process of gild-
tartans
may Ise coin'bined and displayed by means of ing by an amalgam. of mercury and gold is super-1
swing mirrors am: !dips of coloured glass. The scaled by the voltaic reduction of gold; and the
principle is a modification, or rather an extension, of voltaic precipitation is effected with far greater
the powers of the kaleidoscope ; adi Gertanaly the economy. than the mercurial process. Messrs.
results are must pleasing and satisfactory. Amongst ' Eit,meten and Co., though their patent has re-
its primary advantages we must count the cxtraor- ccivedwide eVension by tke grant of licenses even
divary facility with which the idea of a pattern can to French finns, ma:atem their supremacy, and
s
be momentarily realised and modified or changed. sorely puzzle their imitators by the great brilliancy
When finally approved of, it is moreover unncecs- of their gold and silver work. ut it m:' be dmbted
sary to paint the pattern upon paper, as brass scales whether the merits of the voltaic precipitation o.
affixed to the sides of the mirrors indicate at a glance metals are not more conspicuous in the larger scope
the exact number of threads of each colour, and how afforded in its application to sculpture. In this re-
many repeats are requisite for the breadth of the spect it is to be regretted that fitter models than the
web. It shows too, not only the repeats, but lively Cupids of Flamingo or the dull effigies lately
the whole breadth, and a considerable portion of applied to the houses of parliament were not se-
the length of the cloth at one view. The patterns lected. to inaugurate the processes of electro-
thus originated can be enlarged or diminished at bronzing. In the nave will be found a
pleasure. Another great ment of the invention is horse's head executed life size by electro-deposit ;it is
the surprising simplicity, ease of adaptation, and from the hand of Marochetti, and interesting by the
the perfect manner in which the effect of variation of its tone. It has always leen an acknow-
finished cloth, the crisp transparentcloth, surface of silk, ledged.fact in electro-metallurgy that the cost of the
and the soft opaque texture of wool, are severally reduction of iron; far more than counterbalanced the
rendered. It is not easy to calculate the importance original cheapness of the raw material : whether
to manufacturers of so simple an apparatus, giving, this is the case
.in the present instance we had no
ea it does, the means of realising without expense means of ascertaining. The East Indians, who on
any new idea that may occur, opening at the same Saturday laid bare the gorgeous
inlaid
of the
time a wide Acid fee the numb° of ingenuity. The e=
Lin of Onde, display in the gold ot their

tents, crowns and horse trappings, ail that barbaric
splendour which charms the eye by the natural and
choice harmony with which colours are blended, regard-
less alike of the inroads of science on one hand, or cal-
culations of novelty on the other. The sceptre and
the fly-flap, as other accessories which fill their tent,
show that a spirit somewhat akin to that of the an-
cient Assyrians, is still ahroad among these Indians.
The transition from these vestiges of primitive
splendour to the nicer discriminations of the present
day is rather an abrupt one, but the same may be
said of every stride taken in the Great palace.
It is singular to find our neighbours, the French,
doing their utmost to extinguish the brightness of
the metals which the English handicraftsman does
his utmost to preserve. it is well known that not
only a certain dulness of tone is the natural COM-
quence of the continual hammering and oiling of
the silver necessary to bring it to completion; but,
not content with this, it has been the fashion, for
the last year or two, of oxidising most part of the I
silver-work, which thereby acquires preuciturcly the
sober and dusky veil which time has east over all the
brilliant sleights of hand bequeathed to us by the
artists of the sixteenth mutury. Greater durability. '
and a more permanent defence against the inroads of
time, are also said to be secured by the present pro
cow. The system adispassi••ssstaowtegat• • • Tianni, ?g the
groups into acids,whenee they emerge with their pre-
sent sombre hue. Mr. Froment Meurice continues to
attract crowds. A yet later installation is that of
Mr. Durand, whose " Thciere a grande reception"
must be accepted as the greatest compliment yet,
paid to England's favourite beverage. It consists of
seventeen' pieces, which combine chiseiing.
niello, and even oxidising. Though Diane de
Poiticisi has made way for an allegorical figure of
charityand her children,the whole work smacks of the
gusto prevalent in the reign of Francois 1., in the
imitation of the Florentine architecture and its in-
crustation of small figures. Thu whole design and
its adaptation to its purpose is excessively ingenious,
and was, we believe, originally designed by
Kingman. The Louis XV. stele, which the
French now desh,niate as "rocoi//;," is splendidly
represented. Mr. Durand exhibits a table-orna-
ment of assembled Cupids, with decorations
in this style, which shows how far a skilful hand
can reconcile one to the wildest vagaries of fancy.
The firm of ltudolphi seem to have made oxidising
their specialty, and scent bent on proving that the
process is equally well adapted for the largest or mi-
nutest proportions. A circular table, or " gueridon,"
ornamented with Cupids and slender leaves at the
base, the top part consisting of an inverted shield,
with the embossed head of Medusa. There is a sal-
ver with one of those nymphs Jean Goujun has made
us familiar with. M. (idiot makes the purpose of
his ornamental work at once plain by chiselling fish,
flesh, or fruit, with perfect freedom, decking his
richly worked specimens.