The Express.
London, England, 1853-10-22 00:00:00

sely beset. There were several heavy des in the
wk,i8"7,41, one, fell eta miles in sorb, passed at the rate of
"12 41;°t. everything isupeoing its progress, and
.„„,.Ls ,; Fortunatel e there was but young
pea -tes opposite We, which yielded to the pressure;
hod it *theme's occurred the vessel must inevitably have
,„; e.undt r. la the afternoon secured to a moderate
et P..", drawing 8 fathoms, which appeared to effer a
&it to,e, awl from which we Stewards parted;
etc es. era us to our furthest N.E. po itioa. lat. 73.7 N.,
iit,lo W., beck round the Princess Kryal I.lsuds.
peeve.! the largest 'whin :AO yards to let. 72.49 N., long.
tie W retuning song the coast of Prince Albert'.
Ler& and lineliy fre.C.ng in at lat. 72.50 N., long. 117,66
• open the 39th of September, during which eircumnavi-
g,,,os se received many severe nip', and were frequently
e thee to the shore, from which our deep friend kept
a, cif To avoid eeparAteou we had secured with two
aides (gee thaws), two 6 and two 5-inch hawsers.
• ,•
~,,,,opmed position rendered every pr. caution mem-
soy we cot upon deck • 12 months provision., with tents,
seam clothing, ace., and issued to each person a pair et
carpet hoots arid blanket beg, that in the
• ncy making, it imperative to quit the Treed! we
ci ght not be so destitute. The Bth of October our per-
r:. sous terminated with • nip that lifted the vessel a foot,
seal heel. d her 4 degrees to port, in consequence of* large
t ,hate. getting beneath her, in which poestion we quietly
r..=, lied. A., however, there was a probability of t 'nag
tl.!. an upon the ice, it was requisite that a smooth
~e should be made to receive the nail,
• ii was accomplished with much facility by
flettog the hammocks along the edge of tke
tic for about 160 yards, and 20 in breadth. This dose, and
~,ry indication of the pick being now thoroughly
cot/rated, with a temperature of 7 minus, we completed
',wising over, and other arrangements for our winter quar-
ters. As the weather upon the 10th was calm lied fine,
and the ice quiet, at 8.30 cm. left the ship, accr mpahied
by Lieut. Cersewell, Dr. Armstrong, and Mr. Miertsclaing,
with a party of seamen, carrying a pole, dtc., to plant upon
the shores of Prince Albert's Land, which we proceeded
to take peosereion of in the name of her molt gracious
.jeaty. This accompli-hed, we walked to the highest hill
ob.ereable at the distance of five miles, to an elevation of
1,500 feet, which gave an extended view is every direction.
'1 he country was very Lilly, with deep ravines and large
Isles This appears the general character of the land on
Imth shores. The course of the water Collards the N.B.
we were t.oliolll to trace, hoping to see an opening into
harrow's Strait. In this we were disappointed, from the
n.+ry low points Mt ing, rendering it impossible to
se:tit...it the Lind from theses, both teing frosen. On our
return we had the mortification to bud that the lend and
see ice had separated about 100 yards along the whole line
of coast. We walked by its margin for some miles, hoping
to meet with • loose piece of ice ti terry us across ; but
night closing rapidly, suljeeted as to so many falls, owing
the inequalities of our road not being distiognisheble, we
errs' comeiled to halt, anti commence firing to attract
attention, but our distance from the ship was too far to
render our signals of any utility. At 8.30 p.m., Mr. Court,
with out of the many parties that were searching the ice is
a:: threctione, fortunately saw our flashing and made fur it;
to.t, umuspecting our &demise was created by open water,
had no host ; immediately osereiete, he met with • party
which bed two of Helkett's. These were 0002 launched,
only getting through the pancake ice, which was by this
Hine as inch thick, was attended with great difficulty. The
se.. ice also rapidly mining to the northward, the boats after
escb tacit bad to be carried south before being launched,
so as to imam their reaching the only spot from which the
ray to be relieved could embark. This,operation coos-
emceed at 10.30 p.m., and by midnight we were all over,
and reached the .hip at 2.39 •.m., all parties meeticg with
heavy fats, but receiving no accideat of consequence. I
cannot refrain from noticiag the excellency of Ilalkett's
boats, or speak in too high terms of the ingenuity of their
inventor. These admirable little articles were mileted em
breed, sad with the greatest facility carried ups • mamm's
shoulders over ice which, from its exceed,* illeragiaeles
etberiboat could by any possibility bare IN. ris espies
without being sniashd. By their means ahoy ray Mae
a:weed, who were without tents clothing, feel, amielms.
or to any way provided to withstand the severities an pltr
ate.t, with the thermometer 8 degrees 'aims. Tee mos.
queues' to them might have been veep serious; •as it wee,
however, the sane:Mien of Prince Albert's Land to the
British crows was wandered to have terminated so fa-
ererebly, that I directed as extra supper and allowases et
grog to be issued to my energetic crew as • reward for their
eight hours rigorous exertions.
Sting dissansded with the view obtained from Prime
Albert's Lead respecting the eaten we were now in as to
their CIAMPIiOII with Banow's &mite, which would settle
the gaieties of • serth-west pemage, I determined to pa-
ced is that direction with • travelling party, although
rather late is the seam, as soon as I felt that the vessel
might be safely quitted, which I judged would occur after
the Imolai spring tides, if at that period there was no cam
moon snag the ice. Accordingly, upon the 21st, every-
thing beiag favourable, I stetted with Mr. Court, seemed
muter, sad the following men—Robert Calder, ciptata of
the 'arcade ; Robert Tiffany, captain of the 'maintop;
Michael Flinn, quartermaster; George Brows, A. 8.;
▪ Tuesson, captain of the foretop; and James Sans-
dots, private, Royal Marines. The ice, for two miles from
the ship, was so rough that Lieutenant Haswell, and the
whole of the ship's company, teem occupied is carrying the
sledge sad different articles of lading. At 8 cm. thesledge
was finally packed, when, with the fati party in charge
of Mr. We memo (mate), accaccompaniedgue
d by Dr. Armstrong,
a. an amateur, we set off to the north-east; at noon, the
fatigue party, having taken as eight mile*, were directed to
return. Soda alter quitting us we got among very difficult
ice. The sledge was broken, but, quickly fishing it, pro-
ceeded. Calm tuastely, sanely ea hour had elapsed, when
in crossing • floe, the inequalities of which were impercep-
tible, it came down with such • crash that it broke into
pieces. Ibis was unlucky, but, pitching our tent, Mr.
Court sad Peter Thomson (captain of the foretop) started
for the skip, when they arrived at 7.30 p.m., and rejoined
the neat day at 2 p.m. with • fresh and larger sledge mad
• fatigue party, with Mr. Wyasiatt to carry the_demaged
sae beck. (This party, epos my return, I found did sot
get on board until the following dab bilignest•lert bl
heavy stow drift, bat having a Mat sad pro net
safer.) As soot as the new sowieve were refreshed, the
sledge was packed, sad by 3 p.m. were again off, COntiatting
our tours*, without soy further disaster, until 3 45 p.m. of
the 26A, when we had the extreme tgothisition of pita-
ieg our test upon the shores of Barrow's Straits, in lat. 73.31
M., long. 114.39 W. (chronometer), biog. 114.14 W. lune;
nearly on the line, as represented in the charts, where Sir
Edward Parry has very correctly marked the loom of the
land. Upoa the following morning, before el-arise, Mr.
Court and myself ascended • small hill about ei/0 ft in
height, so that we could onaniand an extensive view of 40
or 60 miles. The extreme point of Prince Albert's Lend
bete lat. 78 E. true, about 36 miles,;the farthest land aertbs
N N.E., 8 mike. The Melville Island shore could net be
discovered, but is that direction the ice appears to be veley
heavy, and this floes exceedingly large. While we mein
making these observations, the crew were busily=
erecting • basin about 15 feet above the water (w
been named Prima of Wales's Strait, in honour of his/liege
Might's), is Willett a copper cylinder was deposited. The
spot is so conspicuous, that any person pasmeg deal die
shore must remark it. All being completed by 10 ohm of
the 27th we turned for the ship, arriving upon the mersag
of the 31st, having in nine days made in a direct line MB
wiles by observations, with a temperature between 7 sad'
15 degrees. From the afternoon of the 30th the weather,
which had boon overcast, suddenly brightened, showing the
Princess Royal Islands, ditteut about 12 miles. At 3 p.m.
I left the sledge, with the intentian of getting early en
board, to have everything in readiness for the comfort of
the party, anticipating their arrival at 9 p.m. Unfortu-
nately the weather became again foggy about 6 p.m., fol-
lowed soon by darkness, constituently my way was speedily
let, compelling to weeder about the fioe during the
night, with • temperature from 5 to 16 degrees minus, when
at 7 the next morning had the mortification to find that I
had passed the vessel 4 miles, which I reached by 8.30 cm.,
and immediately despatched a party to mist Mr. Court,
who was at 6 miles distance, having most judiciously en-
camped about 7 miles from the ship, when the 41 become
too dense to travel.
I was agreeably surprised to learn from Lieutenant
Newell that is the WA • pasty, consistlag of Messrs.
Sainsbury. Paine, Miertakiag, and Newton, while sport-
Mg cattle,nce Albert's Lead, had encountered • herd of
musktwo bulb, • cow, an heifer and a calf, sad
meet adroiy shot the whole, whisk yielded 1,29616. of ex-
cellent nutritious meat ; • supply Missopperease and unex-
pected may be regarded as • east favourable tersaisation
to our swot's operations, in which we have bees nearly
enabled to carry out verbatim their lordships' instractioss,
in reaching the ece by the Ist of August, and establishing
a position war Bank's Land, which service has been per-
formed nader circumstances over which we eoald exercise
but little costal. oar only credit eonaistimg in seising the
advantages that an Invisible Power scattered along oar
road, through fields of ice, where all henna exertion would
have bees equally unavailing as the feebleness of • child to
edema tr one yard.
The wister—that dreary period of the voyage which I
had looked leeward to with much approbe
mildly away. theme beteg very little mow or wind, without
ear sanitary sestabelag as the slightest degree impaired, for
which hspasael sedge these vases—via :
1. The spirits and cheerfulness of the men ;
2. Thee ei every ernes of provisions ;
3. The free Of the fewer deck ;
4. The extreme alleallbm of Dr. Armstrong (upon our
monthly aspeetiem) Webs NM of the sew.
So that the mesa anima bend us in a most healthy
and ellaieat essdleism. Aseneb. urea the 3rd, we
ammenad our dada W taking a 30-bee
whale-beat to the Bard Meads, where It b
my inteatim to leave meeillite maims for all hulk
that et the sop of the be. Amid the vessel Me
fortunately get crashed, we map have a Maine, to M
back apes, which will amble as to roma Ilse raver with-
out hazard of starvation; this du beimg nenellealas as
well as the transporting another w beiges see of
llialketes to the eaters shore, MOM Ea Miss, be the
facility of allowing the travellise pedlss elm the
coast, shield the kw break up end essay Me MINI away
daring their alma ; all arrasseisesle bass sew mite Ise
the start of the meshing parties, and the 'maths: b66ll6Mmeg
very (avowable. wen the 18th of April throe wine Igo
.patched eader Lisa. ifiesmsell. O.E. there ; Unit. Cr....
well, N.W. shoes ea Wyssiatt (mate), N.B. ahem
with six weals/ prewleless east.
At I a.m. May 6.—Mr. Wymaiatt (mate) brokenhis ehteseester at the &Ism of 126 blithe ship,
returned, but all beim* rag audition they were com-
pleted to 30 days' pwiMsss mai et 6 gm, teem agais as
rasa. At the seise thee. tee boas* mike with tents,
It., left the ship—See twee& die ef the Meelle, as 110••
deer had has sees. bidmmeodpl rmigsnawl fear hares
shut. This early Whales of ISeeh prevision is • subject

of deep congratulative, independent of the very healthy
ad exciong occupation of the crew, who are all eager for
the sport
May 20.—Lieutenant Cromwell retuned in consequence
of the bites of two of the mem, having reacted let.
74 16. N ,lang 117 40 W., being absent 31 days; during the
poster pan of the time he was subject to strong N. W.w ends,
sweeping from the Polar Sea,through Barrow's Strait,which
Meting hiss in the face rendered it exceedingly difficult to
Walk against, the thermometer being frequently 15 d. below
zero; he, however, traced the coast line, which, for about
iS miles alums Bank's Land, wee very propiti-us, aver-
aging tree, 1,000 to 1,400 feet, from which it gradually
aped to a point trending to S.W., appareutly the eltirine
tithe land is that direction, as it ai ropily turned to south-
wards. An elevation of a thousand feet, aided by an ex-
'pleadingly clear atmosphere, left uo doubt in Lie mind but
that the Polar Sea was before his, and that Bank's Land iv
a part of Baring's Island. He was anxious to have made a
torth.r advance, and encamped during two days, with the
hopes that the invalids would recover, but, findin • them
getting much worse, he very properly deemed it advisable
ie reture with all haste to the ship. Before reaching her,
however, both bad to be borne upon the sledge, whicsi
threw the work upon fsur men; when, getting into heavy
snow, the officer had to fall in at the drat ropes • neverthe-
less, the working party arrived in most excellent health
and spirits. On the 21st a large bear was killed. Upon
examination of the stomach an extraordinary medley was
discovered, consisting of reasins, tobacco, pork, and adhe-
sive plaster, that I came to the conclusion that the Enter-
`prise must be near, the animal not having been seen before
sear our dirt heap, or were there any traces of him about
the ship. I therefore determined to send a party to the
S.W., the only direction we had no travellers, to satiety
myself upon the subject. Accordingly, at 6 p in., on the
22nd, Lieutenant Creabwell, with his party completed with
two fresh hands, was again despatched with provisions
until June 10. Upon the 24th the above mystery
was satisfactorily solved. Some see in pursuit of
a bear about half-a-mile from the ship picked up
a preserved meat tin, with articles in it identical with those
found in the stomach of the bear killed on the 2 lat ; the
foot prints of the animal were likewise abundant on the
snow, This evidence was perfectly conclusive as to the
locality where bruin had obtained his dainties. This being
the anniversary of the birthday of her Most Gracious Ma-
jesty, a royal salute was tired, and the colours displayed in
celebration of the event.
29:h.—Lieutenant liaseell and party returned all in the
most perfect health, having traced the rout towards %Vol- '
laston Land to Ist. 70 35 N., lea. 115 W., from which point
the day being remarkably clear, he observed the outline of I
load to the distance of full 40 miles trending to the S.W.,
bat having advanced 2.5 days, he considered it prudent ts
proceed no further. Two large inlets and a deep bay were
examined, besides an archipelago of small islands alocg the
northernmost shore of the southernmost inlet, which u
high, bold, end stratafied, each inlet trending to the,
Z.N.E., from 80 to 90 miles. The whole coast was strewed
with driftwood ; and many viatica of Esquimau:,
encampments were mat with, but of a very old date. Upon
returning he we. moat surprised to find a party, consisting
of IS natives, encamped upon the ice a few miles from the
N.W. point of the northernmost inlet in quest of seal., but
not understanding each other, no information could be ob-
tained. They exchanged a few presents, and upon that day
week he strived on board, having remained oat his 42days,
thereby fulfilling his instructions to the letter. In conse-
quence of the above, I immediately decided upon proceeding
to these people for the pinta of obtaining information
that might determine the question relating to the Prince
Albert, Wollaston, and Victoria lands, as to their forming
part of the American continent, or whether each was an
island, therefore, taking Mr. Miertsching (our invaluable
interpreter) And twelve days' provisions, at 6 p.m. we
started, and early upon June 3, fell in with them about
ten miles to the northward of the point where they '
were first met with ; they con /era freely with
the interpreter, giving every information we re-
quired, relative to the trending of the coast, au
few as they knew, which was some distance along r• Victoria"
fitted t this they did by treeing upon a large sheet of paper
whisk I brought for that purpose, continuing a sketch
which Mr. Martsching had made Era the ship to their
ate, which they immediately comprehended, and as they
were very particular in placing the awls of " Lutton" and
" Litton' with three smaller on.. net mentioned in the
chart, off Wollaston-laud, I am therefore fully persuaded
of its correctness, and only regretted that they could not go
further (a tracing of which accompanies this narrative).
They describe a large land opposite Wollastoa, called
" Nunavaksaraluk," this of coons is America, to which
they bad never been, as they only trade with the Esquimau:
be the 8 E., nor bad they the slightest article of Euroi can
manufacture about them; the use and eight of iron was
perfectly new, all their implements being copper, their 1
spears and arrows barbed with the same. The copper ore
Is ientarkably fine (but not observing any when at the tents,
the specimen was given me some time after quitting
them) ; unfortunately we lost the opportunity of inquiring
where it was procured, but I am inclined to think that it
comes from the south-east tribes, in their bartering transac-
tions, as the few and simple uraaments which they pno
goosed were of that metal, and obtained front thence. They
are a kind, simple, and purely pastoral tribe, devoid of the
lavish propensities which so strongly characterise those
”a the Mackenzie and Colville, where intercourse with
eivilised an has demoralised the savage. Upon displaying
the presents brought for time, the utmost propriety was
observed. Although, doubtless, all men were anxious to pu-
dgiest' in those treasures, there was not that eagerness to
seine which rendered our interchange with the other Esqui-
maim so troublesome; so far was it from these to do so,
that it was with difficulty we could persuade them to accept
without our receiving an equivalent, they inquiring of the
himpreter, after each article was given them, what we
wanted fur it. A piece of scarlet cloth, which I tied round
a girl's neck, remained there until we were going away,
when she nu up to Mr. Miertsching to ask what she was to
give in exchange, end, when assured it was a gift from the
chief, she gracefully acknowledged it with a smile. No
weapnne were remarked among them, incept for the chase,
their whole demeanour bespoke peace. They live near
their present locality the whole year, not going any further
to the northward, or do th&y believe that there are any
others in that direction ; but to the 8,E., along " Victoria '
and Tr Wollaston " sand, the coast is thickly populated. It
appears very extraordinary that they do not even poems
traditionary legends of their ancestors having been north,
where the numerous traces which we meet with upon both
sides of the straits, as well as on the large " Princess
Royal" island, show that at one period tha whole of this
NOS Blast have been densely populated; their language,
Mr. Miertsching observes, A identical with that spoken
upon the Labrador coast. At half-past 9we left this
late resting people and returned to the ship, which we
Moat at 7 p.m., of the bth, exceedingly gratified by
the mak of ear pleasant excursion, our only misfortune
being ainselho Mellott, my coxswain, having both feet
Maly frost-sipped. At five tin., of the 7th, Mr.
Wynniatt (mate) returned with his party, having been
60 days under the tent. From his exploration of a portion
of the south-eastern shores of Barrow's Strait, as far as
let, 72.6 N , lung. 107.42 W. (DM.), whence the land was
otmerved for about 16 miles trending to the N.E., after
immdieg Point Peel, lat. 73.21 N., long. 112.30 Mr., the
north-west point of Prince Albert's Lend, he reports it to
be in all respects, as to formation, the same as in this vici-
nity, fur the distance of about 40 miles, when, upon crossing
a deep inlet, the land then assumed a north-west aspect,
when it became high, precipitous, and m: harren. No drew-
. . .

wood of any description was met with, but the lee lay
against its base In heavy and unbroken masses. Furthest°
the eastward a lesser one was circumambulated, having in
it several smaller islands, with its southern shore formed of

stratified cliff, having an elevation of about SOO feet. Upon
the 10th, at 7.46 a.m., Lieutenant Creswell and party,
baring completed their 19 days, returned from their search
towards the B.W. (to let. 71.10 N., lung. 123 4 W.),
making in the segregate 60 under the tent, during which be
has coasted three sides of Baring's Island, from the north
shore of which he looked upon the Polar &a, and upon the
south walked 24 mike on it, both presenting the same
swaooth surface, which I consider to be attributable to the

long prevalence of north-easterly winds at the termination
of the navigable seems settirg the heavy ice which we
encountered, and saw resting upon the western side cf the
island, over to the American and Asiatic shore., which
may cause the great difficulty in rounding Point Barrow
late in the season. Unfortunately, the weather became
overcast, which limited his view to the northward, only
allowing him to observe that the toast was high and
bold. Upon this excursion he met with four partitions of
the ice, varying in breadth from 10 to 20 feet, apparently
' runnisCacroes the strait; but, being provided with one of
Halkett's valuable little boats, this obstacle, which would
otherwise have caused a detour of many miles, was easily
overcome. It Is impossible to recommend these boats too
highly upon a service of this description, where every article
of weight is objectionable. Their whole fitting is but 251 b.
When not required they form a platform on the sledge to
stow the baggage , cad whenin use they are carried inflated
upon the top. Thus, on two occasions, they have been of
essential service, without the smallest inconvenience. Lisa-
temant Cromwell erected a aim, and deposited a cylinder
within It, upon a low beach near Cape Lambton ; be also
remarked the of Requiem's encampments upon
almost every pert of onset upon which be pitched his
tent for the sight, many of them thickly strewed with the
heads of meek oxen, which deans@ no paucity of those
animals upon these lands ; indeed, at the present:time, both
shores of the strait are covered with wildfowl of every de-
scription, musk oxen, deer, hares, ptarmigan, god golden
plover. This is certainly the most fertile part of the ruler
regions, and mast be the breeding place of those animals,
which fiad rich pasturage among its *Borba plains and
valley, unmolested by the Beitaiminn, the traces of whose
remains being overgrown with snow and rotten, have re-
ference to a time long anterior. This party, with much
spirit and zeal, performed their return journey cf upwards I
of 160 miles in nine days and a half, under circumstances
reflecting much credit upon them, the latene's of the season
being uafavourable to so rapid so advance. All being now
on bard and in excell.nt health, with the exception of
three of the travellers suffering from foot-nip', our `
season's operations may be considered to have terminated
fortunately, cad, from the close examination which has
been made over avast extent of coast, whine direct distance
by observation embraces 800 Riley, to which a third may !
be added for the devious windings of the coast-lice, without
observing the slightest vestiges of any spar or other indica-
tion of civilised man having reached these shorn. I am
fully confident that the missing expedition under Sir John
Franklin has
this direction, as some portion of the immense man of
stores, span, or fitments with which 'lons ships were pro-
vided mast have been picked up, when driftwood of very
inconsiderable dimensions did net escape observation. (A
chart, showing the extent of discovery and coarse of each
searching-party, amompanies this letter.)
am also of opinion that Prince Albert's Land is part of
the continent of America, and that Point Pool ft its north-

west extremity, sad that the land thence is continuous to
Caps Walker; the peculiar formation of its shores, from
Ike very deep inlets which run into the interior, give the
apposuraaos of straits which in reality do not exist, as was
appareatly the ease between Victoria sad Wool's,-
ton Lamle and which is very probably the same
between Cape Walker and North Somerset. My
opinion is strengthened by the Esquiroant upon
this coast speaking the same language as those of
Hudson's Straits, which Mr. Miertsehiag, the inter-
preter, thoroughly understands, and conversed fluently
with them, while with those of the Colville and Cape
Bathurst he found it sometimes difficult to do so. Conse-
quently, I think it very probable that the forefathers of
these have crossed from Hudson's Straits, and kept the
coast-line of Vicoria and Wollastou Land, and have thus
' retained the purity of their leogusge, which those upon the
north coast of America have lust, oy constant intercourse
with the Indians. I certainly should have considered it my
duty to seadeavour to decide this point by detaching a
boat through the Dolphin and tniuo Straits, but 1 feel as-
stared that service has been accomplished by Dr. Rae last
year, as he evidently was cot in this direction.
Dories/ the absence of the searching parties the refitting
of. the ship was carried en, under the direction of Messrs.
Ssinsbur) (mate) end Court (second mate), so that upon
their return little remained but to get the boats from the
eastern shore, and the tents and appurtenancc 6, which the
shooting parties had upon each side of the Strait on board,
the weather being unfavourable, and the state of the ice be-
coming too precarious to allow of any persons being so tar
distant from the ship. This being t fleeted, as also the re-
pairing and painting of a boat which is to be left with the
provisions at the large Princess Royal Island, completed
upon the 13th, we had the satisfaction of having every one
on board, with the vessel thoroughly refitted, caulked,
piloted, and watered, and is every respect as efficient for
the service we have to perform as toe day we quitted Ply-
mouth, with a trifling sick list, principally from the effects
of fruit-nips and foot soreness from the travelling. We
now await with no little anziety the disruption of these
mighty messes of ice by which we are encircled, and the
consequences depending upon that event, which cannot be
coutemplatsel without deep apprehension.

TIIE PROPOSED MONUMENT TO THE LATE
LIEUT. BELLOT.

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