The Express.
London, England, 1854-01-10 00:00:00

THE EXPRESS, TUESDAY VINING, JANUARY 10, HIM -

DEPUTATION TO TILD FOREIO#I
. • - • JIZNISTIR.
.
A depattation flaw the Ihntestant Alliance Ma an
ietei•iiree with the Earl of Clarandoe, at the Fezeign-
ea* 'yeeterday, to resent • immortal, adapted at the
public meeting lately held upon the ',object of the liberty of
British protestants in foreign countries in respect to this oxen
:one of their religion. The deputation consisted of the fel-
, lowing gentlemen :—The Earl of Shaftesbury, the lien. A.
Kinusird, M.P., Sir J. Dean Paul, Bart., Mr. Thomas
Chambers, M.P., Hon. Copt. F. Maude, Admiral Vernon
Harcourt, Capt. John Trotter, General /Vince', Mr. T. L.
Donaldsoe, Col. Alexander, Mr, P. F. O'Malley, Q. C.,
Rev. Dr. Cumming, Mr. J. Cook Evans, Rev. W. Chal-
mers, Rev. Dr. Thomson, Mr. John Bridges, Rev. Dr.
Mr. R. B. Seeley, Rev. W. 11. Rule, Mr. J.
Clalow Rigg, Bev. T. Nolaa, Mr. J. balance, Mr. James
Spicer, Mr. R. J. Snipe, Mr. J. *Gregor, Captain
The Earl of Stitrtasetne hiving introduced the depu-
tation, proceeded to read the mammal,which stated,
—That the committee eves anxious to ell attention to the
fact, that, under the law reowily prethellited, which
Miss Cusingbame has bees accused of hauler violated,
British subjects residing or travelling iu the Tema died
aims, will NW be exposed to the most veneliens
ego
preemie, peamedings, in case of any alleged menlibdoiinn
ef
"gather at variance with the religion of the WM&
"Aeeldinit to certain articles of the new criminal eels,
is pselealeat should give utterance, even in conversation,
er by do abllbra of a familiar letter, or by the gift of a
esibillileiseek to say sentiment or conviction offensive to
the Rena priesthood, the civil authorities are empowered,
le remeit him to prison, there to await his
Mild by a secret examination, according to forms
inquisitorial;ttsasuWlly and, if adjudged guilty, to be
pnalhilled with a long term of confinement (from sue le Mi
yam/ with hard labour. One article of the said sele
newly includes all foreigners under i's penalties. And en
old law of the Tuscan government has bees second, re-
-441 by a decree of the Greed Duke, veld* seaelpae
iseth Sees who shall be convicted by any TIMM and ell
thienco towards the religion of the state. The amain
see fully aware of the justice and importunes of the genetal
principle that it pertains to the sovereignty ofevery state to'
make its own laws and to prescribe the conditions upon
which it admits foreigners to visit or reside within its tard-
ier, ; but they submit that amicable relations with any
state involve reciprocal conditions, and that, without gees-
-tioning the right of legislation, this country has an un-
doubted elaim to require on its part, as a term of continued
amity, that all British subjects shall be allowed the free
exercise of their religion, such as is guerenteed to indivi-
duals of every country or creed visiting or residing in the
British dominions." After some remarks on the tendency
of papal policy of several European courts, went on to say :
" In Portugal, by a decree of the 10th of December last,
a new penal code was promulgated, which is in direct vio-
lation of the constitutional Charter, and by which the fol•
lowing offences are declared to subject the offender to awl
and from one year to three years' imprisoment, we. :—L
Injuring the established religion publicly, in any dogma,
act, or object of worship, by deed, or word, or publicatioe
in say form. 2. Attempting by similar means to peopepaie
d..ctriniss contrary to the catholic dogma as defined by
tba
church. 3. Attempting by any means to make proselytes
or converts to a different religion or Sect condemned by the
church. 4. Celebrating public acts of a worship other
than that of the said catholic religion. As this code extends
also to Madeirs, it will threaten the safety of many British
subjects. In Spain, the committee need only refer to the
recent refuel of the government to allow to
British Protestants even the use of a burial-
ground, except on the intolerant and insolent condition,
that no religious service wha'ever should he used at the is-
lernmat, end that all publicity shall be avoided in conduct-
is/ the burial. In the Island of Malta, though a British
penemion, a new code has been sent home for her Ma.
peep% approval, by one article of which, ' whosoever
ebeedd outrage the objects of worship of the Roman catholic
religion, within or without the places of worship,' would
be liable to imprisonment for a period of from one to three
tat ea Under these circumstances (continued the =emo-
tion the Committee of the Protestant Alliance feel impelled
to nitwit to her Majesty's goverrment, through your lord-
ship, that the time is come for making a determined stand
agaiest these aggressive and hostile demonstrations (of Po-
pery). They urged that arrangements be made '• with a
view to the establishment of a better understaading with
the governments of Tuscany, Portugal, and Spain, on the
opiate referred to, and also tolls* prevention of intolerant
enactments in the Island of Malta ; in adopting which
coarse, the committee are coefident that her Majesty's go-
vernment will have the support of parliament and secure
the grateful respect of all her Majesty's loyal protestant
subjects."
The Esti of Clarendon said that he could usen the
deputation that the very important memorial just read
wield receive his best attention, and that be would oom-
eiemieste with his colleagues respecting it. The depute-
d's 'weld not expect him at the present moment to disease
tbeleemal particulars therein alluded to, but he would
mI the word with respect to Portugal, as he had thought
ils matter of justice to the government of that couatry to
Mae inquiries after what had been stated. When the
thesis( of the Protestant Alliance was held lately in Free •
Hell, be (Lord Clarendon) was of course not Loan
unties tO what took place. The answer to his inquiries
wen nee we all, he thought, should be pleased with,
cumin, that although there were severe enactments in
ilethial on the subject of religion, they are not now
rat is practice, he referred to a despatch latet)
resolved from Sir Richard Pakenham, in which
was stated that British protestants were not
the least interfered with in the freest exercise of
lair religion, although it must be confessed that the Roman
esthetic religion being the religion of the state, any dissent
hem it was regarded with disapproval, nor could the peo-
ple view with friendly eyes any active system of prosily-
ItheL As to Toothy, what was said in the memmial, was
perfectly true and just. He (Lord Clarendon) did not
*Mk we should have any cause to complain again, there
bed been that manifold and earnest (amnion of protestant
*MSS which could not but produce the best effects. Oa
111" part of the government, nothing should be left undone
Mlle's matters with respect to which the prevailing and
rep. opinions had been expressed.
The Earl of SnerrxenulT remarried that the depute-
lien could not possibly expect his lordship to say more.
The Earl of Ct./Ammon observed that even in oar ova
Mesta books there were laws upon the subject of religion
WOW doubt seven, but happily quite obsolete. He be-
ihnielhat there were equally severe laws in the Portuguese
ode, and if such were put in practice there would at ones
be good grounds to justify our remonstrance.
The Hoe. ARTHUR KINNAIRD said that of all the im-
portant subjects treated of in the memorial the minds of
British protestant" were being aroused, and that foreign
pliellielnele were also uniting with them—that a large ease-
dation tof this purpose wee in course of oeganisation, and
IA wee of extreme importance that our position should be
dearly understood.
Mr. Ceimainne inquired whether his lordship was aware
=hat bad been done concerning the new penal cede pro-
pmed fee Malts, which Lord John Russell had, upon a mo-
des made by his friend Mr. Kinnard, and occonded by
himself, stated should be submitted to the law *Seen?
The Earl of CLARRIIDON replied that he was sorry not to
be obis to give any informations es that pint, which was a
mime within the province of the thledliethee.
Dv. Teoxson begged le mull bin beiddp's attention
to the parsec-sties slyiembesi alt Pwaspl. It was true
Met there are ray difplikaliblb less apes our statute-
begbe, bat them pressibis emenlinents were of ancient
tbatea mad we awn wM Othilais liner laws existed in
Ilosupiob beg es lig mum aill PM is sebsisitica. The
ithieethe enestaist bewther emetheinel el iv the memo.
*I was net the old law but as entirely new one not yet
ennelened by the Cortes, but already sanctioned by the
einedis.
lb. led et CL.ILRINDON asked if this new law was
Mee severe than those at present in force.
The Rawl of SHILTTISDURT replied it would be undoubt-
severe.
yri of CLAIR:KROH them referred to several pans
glee meemelieL and promised to consider with attention
We ildbenition jest laid before him is reference to the new
code for Portugal and the other subjects referred to.
The deputation, having thanked his lordship gratefully
for his Mad reception and attention, then withdrew.

OPENING OF THE MARYLEBONE FREE LIBRARY.
Yesterday meraing the reading rooms of this institution,
built the Mt ef tie kind established in the =strophe,
wife weed Mt Ike tr_atnitoste admission of the public, at
. Bier-read. The books are arranged
druid Oa isms is a. Mt Gear of the house, tables being
pissed Is dm NEM Ise *a esavenienee of seeders. The
mom of die beiludia Y kW. hat weans of any locality
isstrreemergrdlwesei *se amiss to the books. The library
abort 6,000 volumes, comprising works in
alltmem=litterature, mad endeavours are making to
Jaime ft number. During the day a considerable
umber s availed themselves of the m:vantages of

LEIIERS FROM THE SEAT OF WAR.
(rams ova @racist colleen/v*lmm.
stiulllde, DEC. 14.
,We left Varna on the morning of the 11th, is the
midst Ilia slight shower of snow, which had already
ileihs, we were told, in large quantities further in-
-111111,71.0 travelled post—the only way in which
sae eau travel in Turkey, unless he mounts haste of
his testni. But any one who supposed this mode of
locomotion/ me to have mach in common with that
known by &similar name in England would find him-
self very wa•
wa mistake*. Instead of a yellow chahe
drawn by tire smart hacks, and driven by &postillion
clothed in inexpressible* of unexceptionable white-
ness, awaiting him at the door on rising from his
coffee and rolls, to whirl him on along smooth and
level roads, to a thousand inns with smiling land-
ladies, pleasant parlours, rosy port, and savoury
capons, • few sorry hacks, with bed halters, are all
that he can count en. When one resolves to make a
journey he sets about his preparations with as much
solemnity and deliberation as our forefathers might
be supposed to hare displayed in the days of Eliza-
beth. He sends to the postmaster and orders
horses for himself and his party, if there be
a party ; and if not, for himself alone ;
to be ready on a certain day, at a certain hour. He
packs his personal effects in saddle-bigs, or at least
in such • form that pack-horses can carry them. He
clothes himself in furs, lambskin, wolfs in, or fox-
skin, and puts on heavy boots. If be be a Turk or
a foreigner, he sticks pistols in his belt, and girds on
a sabre, more as a warning to evil-disposed persons
than in the expectation of having actually to
make use of them, for the maxim, " Si via pacem,"
Bzo., is one that commends itself to the common sense
of every one. If he be a Ettropeaz, also, or at least
• wise European, he places an English saddle, of no
great value, or a French or German one of still len,
upon the animal which is to have the honour of con-
veying bim, knowing that the saddles of true be-
lievers are anything but pleasant seats for gbiaours.
If, in addition to all this, ho is a person of some con-
sideration, or thinks himself so, he sends his compli-
ments to the pasha of the place, and begs him to send
two of his guards to escort him safely to his destina-
tion. These two worthiesmake their appearance under
the name of kavasses, dressed in the old Turkish
turban, girdle, pistols, sabre, and all, mounted on
ponies, and breathing vengeance and slaughter
against all who shall in aught impede the passage of
their protege, the intensity of their devotion being
measured by the amount of backsheeeh they think
they are likely to receive at the end of the journey.
The traveller ales takes care to provide himself with
a Parkere or passport, and a firman from the Pacha
addressed to the governors and officials of the various
towns through which he will have to pass on his
route, praying them to furnish him with horses,
quarters, and all other things of which he may stand
in need. With all these precautions and appur-
tenances, he will find posting in Turkey, if not so
comfortable or so speedy as in England, at least as
safe and certainly cheaper. It has also the charm of
novelty. For each horse which he may require for
himself, his servants and baggage, and for the horse
ridden by the astresdji or postilion, who acts as guide
and groom, he pays two piastres and a half per
hour. Hours in Turkey are not merely measures
of time, but of distance also. The number of
hours from one place to another, or in other words,
the length of time which the post horses take to tra-
verse tbe intervening space, at an average or usual
speed, has been fixed from time immemorial. Adria-
nople, for instance, is 44 hours distant from Constan-
tinople; Shillala 20 hours from Varna, &c. ; so that
though one spent double that length of time on the
road, he pays just the same. The highest rate of
speed which the post-horses attain, is never greater
than 6 miles an hour in summer, and 41 in winter;
but [(thief; the stoppages into account, we mar set
down an hour as equal to three English miles. With
the maintenance of the horses on tho way, the tra-
veller has strictly nothing to do, but in reality they
generally obtain barley at the houses where he stop,
for which he. pays, amongst ocher things. The Pacha's
harasses ride their own horses, but invariably expect
a small fee at the end of the journey.
So much for the means of conveyance. Owing
to delays of one sort or another, we did not
get away from Varna until near morn,
which of course made it necessary to stop two'nights
on the road. Our course for the first fifteen miles
lay along the shores of fresh water, a lake called
Deena Visite, which extends in narrow stripe from
Varna, in a direction almost doe west. Its eastern
extremity is separated from the harbour of Varna
merely by a narrow bank or bar of sand, not over a
gamer of a mile broad. A canal one mile long, cut
through this, would enable vessels of the largest ton-
nage to enter the lake, which affords anchorage close
to the shore throughout its whole extent. If such a
work as this were executed, it would form the most
magnificent port in the world. The water is of
great depth, of a deep blue colour, and the clearest I
ever saw. It is at no point more than an English
mile in breadth, and the shores present an admirable
site for a great commercial town. The road on the
right bank runs along an undulating plain, in some
places rather thickly covered with brushwood, but
generally so even and smooth, that there is
hardly any portion of it over which the
most timid rider might not gallop at full
speed. It is bounded about five miles to
the northward by • low range of hills, which
shelter it admirably from the cold winds that
in throe regions come down laden with the biting
keels et the Russian steppes, and form a picturesque
bukgreand to the picture. Towards the western
end this plain is broken and intersected by high
yiakisodleftyprecipices, in some eases thickly wooded,
wills) overhang the water with veil, fine effect.
the opposite shore the range of hills, known as
itirli t tie Bin, rang the whole way,and from the
water's edge to the summits is covered with timber
et
the finest growth. The soil throughout is a rich
black loam, and being unencumbered by any of the
eistaaiss in the shape of stones, trees, &c., which in
ether pleses cost the farmer so much toil and annoy-
ance, needs but to be ploughed and sown to furnish
an abundant yield of any European crop.
At present, if I remember rightly, there
Ma net more than two small and poor nil-
rin its whole extent ; the inhabitants
eihish draw a scanty subsistence from a patch of
seldvation in the neighbourhood of their dwellings,
which they exhaust by a succession of crop., and
then abandon for some other spot, until it recovers
half. Game abounds throughout. flocks of
wild ducks sported and dabbled in thwater, not
ten yyards from our horses' feet, and partridges by
ran about on the sward, unscared by our
epprseeth, and in blissful ignorance of everything
appertaining to fowling pieces and pointers. I saw
no hares, but I am told they are equally numerous
and wild boars may be plentifully .found in the wood"
by any one whose Indian experiences incline him
towards the noble sport of "pig sticking." I have
seen a great deal of fine scenery, and of this very
kind too, but very little which could equal the
presented by the southern shore of
lake, as we pursued our course along the
northern. The deep blue of the water, through
which the pebbles down in its clear depths shone
with a silvery hue, was every moment placed in glo-
rious contrast with the sombre colours of the woods
en its basks, clothing the hills above like a pall, by
tillig of sembias breaking through the snow clouds.
asedest slim* reigned on all sides. Now and
then it was broken by the screams of the wild geese,
cutting their way southward; but, with this excep-
tion, our voices or the clatter of our horses' hoofs were
the only sounds to be heard. At about 10 miles
distance from Varna, the lake dwindles into a rivulet
which runs for about a mile through a narrow valley,
shut in by high and abrupt eminences, and then
opening out again into another broad expense of
water. The view at this point is magnificent, and is
alone worth the journey from Varna. At various I
points along the road, generally in some sequestered'
dell, but always sufficiently conspicuous, handsome
I fountains of white stone stand by the wayside,
I erected by Mossulmsn piety to refresh the weary
I cattle of the passer by in the hot months of sum-
mer. All of them bear some inscription taken from
the Koran—generally the famous aphorism 'of the
prophet, "Water giveth life to everything."
- A Bulgarian peateht seldom passes one of these
without unyoking his oxen and letting them drink
their till. 'rho clumsy waggon, the breath of the
settle hanging in wreaths over their heads in the
clear, frosty air ; the many hued glitter of the icicle*,
which hung around the trough, and the rude but
hardy air of the driver, with his sheepskin coat and
ponderous turban, or, if a Nub, equally ponderous

the
cap, in tinny instances formed en admirable scene probably about 30 mike, and it is tit fur cultivation
I for an artist to depict. The building of these bean- I throughout, the greater portion being, in eta :-
tains is brie of the Mahommedan works of charity the highest degree fertile. It partakes iu nn
which assist in opening the gates of heaven. They measure of the nature of all land adjoiniee
are so many proofs_ of the Prophet's sagacity, and it Danube from Belgrade to the Black Sea, and is
is not a little sinr, that every act which his die- marshy and wet in spring, and is baked by the
turn has made praisaworthy, possesses more or less of excessive heat in summer. Tut the vegotosee
wsitive and solid utility, save only the pilgrimage to ' astonishingly rapid iu its growth, and fe;
Mecca. Vain repetitions, and bodily torture or con- I persons who only witness tie parched appears"-
! tortions, wherever practised, are corruptions intro- I presented by the plains in the autumn nod asotee
dueed by the dervishes, and find no sanction in the would believe that astonishingly luxuriant grope
Koran. Hospitality to the stranger and wayfarer, cha- flourish and come to maturity in the earlier month
City to the poor, and kindness to the lower animals, of summer. As a corn country, it has probably an
are all injunctions worthy of a purer faith and a equal in the world; and yet I may safely venture o
holier origin. Accordingly the burning heats of the assert that not one-hundredth part of it is eaohyes'r
east, in which Mahommedanism took its rise, are brought under cultivation. The peasantry, in slims
mitigated be the piety of its wealthy votaries, whose have little inducement to grow more of any ern;
benevolence makes fountains bubble in arid wastes, than will supply their own wants, and these of re
and lonely fastnesses for the refreshment of the way- neighbouring town. There arc no roads and no effi.
barer; and the dogs and pigeons even are carefully cient means of forwarding their surplus to the Dante
I fed in most Mussulman towns, by the ministers of or Varna. Most English n heelbarrov, a would son.
the Mosque, as a part of their sacred duty. The tain fully hall as large a load as their miserable be-
road was throughout simply a track for pack-hordes, Tale waggons, which, besides, can only creep dans
bat along which a light carriage, as well as the rude at the rate of about one mile per hour. The Danit;
we gone of the peasantry may, in fine weather, one would think, should be the great highway foe
oaks its war. For a short distance from Varna, transporting the products of the countries oar its
mar which it crosses the famous battle-field on banks to the sea; but it must be remembered that
width Ladislaus 11. of Hungary met with a from the month of November to the early past °May
1 else and a grave from the Turks, it is toler- the ice renders it no longer navigable; and even if
ably hard, though terribly rugged but: when- this were not the case, the stupidity of the diploma/Jo,
ewer it passes through cultivated ground, or across who committed the task of keeping the mouths dear,
a marsh, which is sometimes the case, it partakes in to RUSIlia, would render its water equally useless for
every respect of the nature of the adjoining terrain, the purposes of commerce. The great aim of 14,4
with such additional softness, of course, as the traffic for many years past has been to luster discontent,
may be expected to occasion. It is, in short, nothing and support abuses in the neighbouring states.
MOM or less than a short and direct track across the Nothing can be further from her purpose than to
country, and the goodness or badness of its condition assist either the Bulgarians or Watlachians in finding
is entirely the work of Dame Nature, who, by-the- a market for their produce. She, therefore' anticsbye,
bye, with all her accomplishments, has the reputation the Danube to be blocked up, and throws the blame
of being the worst road maker in the world. on the Porte. The true way to turn the ialinense
Towards nightfall we reached the extremity of the natural advantages of Bulgaria to account would
lake, and entered a hamlet known as Devna Mills, be to run a railway from Varna along tho shor6i of
composed of the flour mills themselves, ten in num- the Devna Lake to Shumla, and thence anerweids
ber, belonging to a Turkish company of four partners, he extended to Belgrade. Engineering difficulties
and worked by a stream which flows into the lake. there are none. The line would probably ti the
We here stopped at a coffee-house, in order cheapest in the world, for it could be carried the
to partake of a cup, and smoke a chibouk, whole way almost along a dead level. It, in addi-
having previously sent a Kansa to secure tion to this, the lake was connected with the sea,
lodging for the night in the village of Devon, about by a canal, in the way I have mentioned, \'area would
a mile and a half further on. A Turkish coffee-house become the great entrepot for the supply of ferlign
in the country exactly corresponds with a village commodities to the whole of Bulgaria, and perhaps
alehouse in the country, but is in many respects so even to Servia and Bosnia, and would in return export
different that a description of it may not be unim enough corn each year, to render European fames,
each
tereating. The person who keeps it is mostly the and dearthe, now of so frequent occurrence, all but
keeper of a khan also, that is, of two or three empty impossible. The people would be rendered indepea-
rooms and a stable, which he lets for the accommo- dent of the Danube, and furnished at all seasons of
dation of travellers at a low rate.; Adjoining the khan the year with a cheap and speedy means of comma-
is the cafe, generally a small room, with a passage, nication with thesea and the capital, whilethe latter
about as wide as a church aisle, running up the would be brought at least three days nearer to Paris
middle. On each side of this is a raised platform, and London. It is a folly to urge the present want
or dais, railed off into square partitions, and covered of traffic, as an objection to such a scheme, as we all
with straw mats; and perhaps, if the proprietor be know that railways create) traffic, make roses spring
a little pretentious, with a few pieces of carpet also. in deserts, and cause hamlets to rise into flourishing
In the centre of each of these divisions is a mongol, towns with a rapidity all but miraculous. If Tar-
or earthenware pan filled with charcoal embers, and key is ever really and truly to be regenerated,
around this the guests sit, crosslegged, smoking railways and good roads will be the instruments.
solemnly, sipping slowly, and sometimes talking, but We reached Shumla early in the afternoon of the
always deliberately and one at a time -no pub- 11th inst., and found the snow about half a toot
lie-house brawls, nor yet the clatter and deep, the town crowded with troops, which put us to
buzz of a French cafe. Some men will the painful necessity of lodging tho first nightie a
lounge here all day long, in virtue of their having sort of stable loft in a Khan, through which the
ordered a cup of coffee on entering iu the morning. wind passed both by floor, wall, and roof, and it ass
The cup of coffee, be it remembered, is not the great with considerable difficulty that we found suitable
bowl of sooty-flavoured rubbish which is offered you quarters anywhere.
ander that name in a London coffee-house, nor yet
the delicious denti-'asst of the French capital, but
about a table spoonful of the soothing liquid—hot,
savoury, aromatic, in a cup of the smallest possible
dimensions, like a child's plaything, and without
handle or aught else to distinguish it from a slop
basin in miniature. One of these is handed to each
visitor on entering. On receiving it he produces
his chibouk, lights it at the brazier, and abandons
himself to the great solace of life, the dole° far niente.
But no Turk ever thinks of mounting the divan with-
out removing his slippers, though he is tolerant
enough to excuse all Franks who commit
a breach of etiquette by ascending, booted
spurred and all, as we did. Whether it was owing
to my previous fatigue and exposure to cold, I know I
not ; but I have seldom so thoroughly abandoned
myself to the enjoyment of the hour as when under
the soothing influences of the fumes of Turkish to-
bum and the gentle heat of the brazier as we
squatted around the fire in the Devna Mills coffee.
house, in the midst of a circle of bearded Osmanli.,
with pistols in their belt, who, after politely saluting
us, puffed away in solemn and decorous silence.
Equally silent was the kafedji, who, standing at the
upper end of the room before a blazing fire of char- i
coal on a hearthstone breast high, plied his calling,
with naked arms and naked breast, and handed
iround the coffee to his guests, looking like a huge
Cyclops as the firelight fell athwart hie swarthy fea-
tures and muscular form through the thick clouds of
tobacco smoke.
After a brief interval of rest we mounted once
more, and, galloping. across a stony plain, reached'
the village or Devoe just as the night fell. We pulled
up at the entrance, and in vain shouted for our
ksvass. " Hadji ! Radii!" cried we. " Iladji!
Hadji!" was re-echoed from the hill that towered
above us—for the kavasa was a Mussulman of the
first water, having made the pilgrimage to Mecca,
I and being ever after a holy man. The village dogs
barked fiercely, and the cold night wind blew still
more fiercely, and still for nearly a quarter of an
hour the hadji was invisible. We were beginning to
I fear that, having provided for his own comfort, he
was about to leave us to shift for ourselves, when the
worthy made his appearance on an eminence above
us, and began to shout with a vigour which made
ample compensation for his previous silence. Follow-
ing the sound we soon reached the spot where he
stood, and were speediiy shown into a thatched
cottage of small dimensions, but extraordinary clean.
The walls in the interior were white as snow,
there was en equally white ceiling, and an earthern
floor, pessingly smooth, and scrupulously well kept.
The good wife was already making preparations for
our arrival, and bid us welcoine,when we entered,with
a cordial smile that doubled the value of her words.
Barefooted, hsrdhanded, a white handkerchief tied
I round her head, the skirt of her gown pinned up
behind, with an honest, kindly, but weather-beaten
face, she would have paned is any part of Ireland
for " a daughter of the soil," as long as she desisted
from speaking. A fowl was speedily killed, plucked
before our eyes, and thurit into the pot ; we, to the
' meantime, squatting on a mat beside the fire, amok-
ing and watching the process of cooking with painful
solicitude. In due time it came to an end; the
animal was drawn forth, and dished on a huge flat
wooden platter, and being placed before us with a
little salt and a loaf of black bread, our pcnkuives and
a hearty goodwill accomplished the rest. To wash it
down we sent out for some wine, 'and for the sum
of four piastres received a bucketful, which so
mush resembled in taste a mixture of bad vinegar
and cayenne-pepper' that we contented ourselves
with a siagle sip. As soon as we had finished our
vapid we lay down on our mats, put our saddles
wader our heads, and, having thrown our coats over
as, were soon in dreamland. My latest waking
recollection was having seen the Chiajah, a head-
man of the village, busily engaged in quaffing the
wine which we had rejected, in company with our,
Mats and both of them at the same time making a
admits inspection of one of my boots, which seemed
to meet with their decided approval. We started at
daybreak on the following morning ; but finding it
impossible to reach Schumla that night, we stopped
about three in the afternoon at the village of Oonuaki,
five hours from our destination. It lies in a hollow
lin the centre of a great plain, and the inhabitants
seemed to employ themselves mainly in the cultiva-
I don of the vine. The same neatness, order, and
air of comfort which I have observed in all the
Turkish and Bulgarian villages prevailed in an equal
degree in this. Each house stands in a ring-
/nes, enclosing the farmyard, out-offices, and fre-
quietly& gardes, and everything wears an appearance
of cleanliness and order. I can safely say that neither
in France nor England, nor in Ireland, above all,
have I seen one tithe of the marks of social happiness
and domestic comfort and self-respect in the dwel-
-1 Hogs of the very poor which may be found in those
of Turkey, notwithstanding the many disadvantages
under which the lower classes labour in the last-
mentioned country. No filth or squalor ever appears
in a Bulgarian peasant's cabin, however rude its f'ur-
niture or humble the attire of its owner.
Our route over the entire distance from Devoe to
Shumla lay along an immense undulating plain,
about 40 miles in length, and extending from the
Little Balkan to the Danube, intersected merely
by one small line of hills. Its average breadth is

LATEST FROM ABROAD.

INDIA AND CHINA.

THE OVERLAND Milt,

-4.--

(BY SUBMARINE AND EUROPEAN TELIORAPUO

TRIESTE, MON DAY.
The steamer Calcutta arrived at 9 o'clock a.m., in

16 hours from Alexandria, Jan. 4.

The India mail left this morning for London u:2l
dates from Calcutta Dec. 0 ; Madras, Dec. 10;
Shanghai, Nov. 19 ; Amoy, Nov. 18 ; Hong Hong,
Nov. 27 ; Singapore. Dec. 4 ; Penang, Dec. 6; Calle,
Dec.l3; Bombay, Dec. 14 ; Burmah, Nov. 20.
The intelligence from Burmah was most contradic-
tory. A report was current that the Burmese had
recaptured Pegu, and a combined movement against
the British was to take place on the 20th December;
whilst another statement was that the war ploy at
Ave is too weak to do anything.
The Russians are said to be at Khiva, and the
Peshawur force hasbeen increased to 13,500 men.

The Afredeea of the Kohat Pass have given in and
aeckpted our terms.
Trade in India was fair. Exchange at Calava,
12.1.

In China the insurgents have evacuated Amoy, and
the imperialists have made horrible massacre there,
Canton ia quiet. Exchange

(By sruMADI\B AND BEBOFBAN TELDOSAFIL)
MARSEILLES, *AD A'
The Indian Mail arrived at 5 o'clock p.m.