The Express.
London, England, 1865-09-30 00:00:00

power accorded them 1 Would they be wise, would
they be moderate/ On that all depended ; and un-
fortunately
it must be acknowledged that the ex- \
perience of the past could hardly make men hopeful.
Yet in spite of all this, of the vital questions which
have been thrown out, and are now waiting to be
solved, the social, merry, good-tempered, cheerful,
witty, amusement-loving Viennese does not belie
his nature, but is carried away by some exhibition
specially adapted to his taste ; just as in the old
times, when he ate, and drank, and danced without
thinking, or being allowed to think, about the fate
of nations, or of his own empire either, where
Metternich ruled, and ruled singly and supreme.

YORKSHIRE JOTTINGS.

(JZOY ♦ 001EIBPOND11111%)

WHITBY.
If Pickering were in Germany, or if Grathland
Mill, Groemont, Levishatu, and Sleights—villages
on the line running from Pickering to Whitby—
were all in some faraway Swiss canton, they would
be as household words to the enterprising British
tourist. Artists would make pilgrimages to paint
them, poets would versify, and prose word-spinners
dilate upon.the rotaantie beauty of Shair approaalam,
and the exquiidis variety of theiz scenery. AB it*
how' many people know that in a railway ride of a
dozes miles they may be carried through ravines
and gorges, by crags and waterfalls, past woods and
rocks which may be compared to the much vaunted
Rhine with positive disadvantage to the latter
Directly the floe old ruins of Pickering Castle
are passed, the railway traveller finds himself in a
deep valley, with lofty hills on both sides of him,
which, changing their character every few minutes,
present with each change some new euchantment,
or some novel combination of natural beauty.
For the extent and variety of its loveliness this
Vale of Pickering is literally without an English
rival. Portions of Wales, such as the pass of
Llanberris--of Scotland, as 'the least smiling part
of the Trossachs—of Ireland, as the Eagle's Nest at
Killarney or the Gap of Duulow, 'come irre-
sistibly to the mind at the train goes on,
for the many sharp curves end steep gradients of
this line seem to have been specially constructed for
giving its passengers exquisite views. What is
probably due to engineering necessity might be
fairly attributed to artistic design, while in the ap-
parent closing in of the mountains, and in the
seeming inipoesibllity of gaining an outlet from the
frowning mass of wood Slid rock which now and
again welds itself together as if to oppose further
progress, and in its sudden expansion, and in the
increased beauty of the view, the visitor is con-
stantly reminded of the surprises common in
lake and river scenery. Up to this time autumn
has laid a gentle hand upon the leaves, and the
great mass of the foliage waving on the hill-sides or
bending gracefully from banks and fields, to be
reflected by the waters of the placid Esk, is bright
and green. Here and there, however, may be seen
a rich inane of radiant yellow or mellow brown,
while the dusky red of the withered fern leaves
supplies the place of heather-blossom, and gives
full warmth of colour to the picture. Now rushing
through glorious woods where the suutight comes
,tjanciug down through leaves and branches to light
up countless grassy dells, 711 say brllffifeh
Puck might make merry and Titania sleep ; now
tearing along a monster ravine where the sombre
stunted mountain firs line the way until they meet
huge masses of jagged rock which stand out
prominently clear against the bright blue sky ;
now turning corners of startling sharpness, so as to
cross a trout-stream where monster boulders are
lying round in picturesque confusion ; now puffing
by sloping wastes of heath, and fern, and moor,
where brown contends with green at the barren
ground, and where the horned mountain sheep may
be seen perched on dangerous pinnacles, or gazing
with melancholy eyes, like so many ecape-goats in
the wilderuess--and now passing. as if disdainfully,
the quaint stone-quarries, the few homely cottages,
with their exceptional bits of cultivation, and the
rugged lumps of unhewn, uncultivated rock, the
train at length emerges into the open, and after a
mile or two of commonplace fields and hedges of
stone fences, with queer castellated tops, of woods,
and walls, comes suddenly upon Whitby Harbour,
with its abominable adjuncts of foul water, thick
mud, and unpleasant smells.
If all strangers could be temporarily deprived of
the organs of sight and smell, it is possible that
their first impressions of Whitby would be that it
was not a very unpleasant place. Without this
deprivation, they must almost necessarily pass the
time occupied in gaining the West Cliff from the
station in complaining of its aroma and denouncing
its streets. Narrow, steep, uncleanly, and uninte-
resting, the latter are yet marvellous specimens
of architectural ingenuity. The houses in
them seem to consist of front kitchens and
back doors, while in their utter absence of
view, and in their palpable incommodiousness they
significantly illustrate the position of Whitby
before railways were, and when Mr. George Hud-
son had not come into his kingdom. Even now,
the people who build lodging-houses evidently
labour under the delusion that it is a disadvantage
to face the sea, and with acre after acre of eligible
sites vacant on the cliffs, terraces and parades are
run up whose windows command a prospect which
for beauty, variety, and extent of range may be
equalled in any of the back streets of Islington or
Camden-town. But none of these remarks apply
to the crescent and houses which front the bay. The
view from their windows is magnificent, while in
the splendid expanse of smooth firm sands, in fine
bold sea and headlands, in cliffs, and inland drives,
Whitby has many advantage,' not united elsewhere.
The grans-covered promenade of the Went Cliff—
the only part of the town pleasantly eligible for a
summer eojourn—divides with the pier the atten-
tions of visitors. The sea view from it is ex-
tensive and grand, but as it is situate on the top of
precipitous cliffs, leadiug abruptly down to the
sands—a distance of some hundreds of feet—which
are not even guarded by a hand-rail, this prome-
nade and playground looks perilously unsafe for
children. Indeed Whitby seems strangely chary of
protecting its guests from sudden death. There
are portions of the churchyard over which one
might topple with marvellous ease, and where no
power on earth could save the life of him who
fell. Still, for quiet people who are content with
the paths provided for them, for thole) who keenly
appreciate line scenery, and who have a stern con-
tempt for the frivolities of ordinary sea-side life,
Whitby is a charming place enough. The old town
and its aromas _ need never be visited, sad even

of stone steps from the harbour. This ruin is more
than usually rich in superstitious traditions, and
mom than usually unfortunate in the treatment it
meets with. The old man who elects threepence
from each visitor for entering its precincts states
that the entrance fees go direct to " the family,"
in which case it may not be inappropriate to hint
1,
that, as a mere matter of business, such care should
be taken of this beautiful and venerable structure
as a showman gives to his puppets, or a peep-show
proprietor to his trashy views. At present it bears
the signs of unmistakeable neglect and un-
naturally accelerated decay, and as from
the number of people who sketch, idle,
and flirt in its grounds every tine day
through the fast departing mason, the copper taken
must amount to a considerable sum, the public
have, perhaps, a eight to ask "the family" to
adopt measures to preserve an edifice which is an
honour to Yorkshire, and au object of intense in-
terest to every dabbler in antiquarianism, every
lover of pure architecture, and to every reader of
Walter Scott.
Of Robin Hood's Bay, a so-called fishing village,
gig miles from Whitby, it would be, perhaps, kinder
to be silent. But the conventional talk concerning
this wretched place is so utterly fallacious, the kind-
hearted denizens of the towns near it having evi-
dently entered into an amiable conspiracy to foist
it off upon the unwary tourist as quaint, romantic,
interesting, and what not, that it becomes a duty
tosay in a few word' what it is, and what are the
precise attractions it offers to the visitor. Even the
usually correct guide-book published by Theakaton
quckes from what its author calls "a lively tourist"
his description of Robin Hood's Bay :
No place of human abode can be conceived more wild, in
its appearance than this village, whore the tidy tittle **di-
kes@ of tbs &berme@ are perched, like the nests of the tier
gulls, mime the cliffs. The communication from one
street to another is in some places so entirely cut off, that
access is obtained by a plank bridge, thrown over a gully.
Every individual dwelling is characteriatis of • sis-tarter
proprietor—him whom early habit has tanaht the true prin-
ciples of the eoonotoy of space and to whom the contrast
of rough and pestle& hours aired the mores endows* the
delights of home. Among suck a population, I had no rea-
son to repent my visit. ' Such is the precarious pc•ition hI
many of the howls among the crafty eminences, that one
is inclined to wonder that they have not long sines .been,
washed away. Some year@ ago a considerable number were
abandoned, sad aftenrards serially swept off by the waves ;
and now the sea has nadereatowithie rocks in many piano
'to each a degree, that, with an is-shore swell, the sounded ;
the Jumbling waters mumbles a distant discharge of

artillery.
Without being wholly and absolutely untrue, this
description conveys as opposite as idea of the place it
refers to as it would be possible to convey in word
Its appearance is not wild, and its edifices are
tidy. It has nothing characteristic of a seafaring'
proprietary that may not be found in the back-
alums of any fifth-rate seaport in the kingdom.
It is neither quaint, nor curious, nor picturesque,
~tinless dirt, and stench, and ugliness are meant by
those phrases. Its main street is inconveniently
Steep, and its squalid houses abut on to the sande ;
but neither of these remarkable facts justifies the
hyperbolic enthusiasm of those Oho advocate a pil-
grimage to its shores. That dissolute looking and
ill-conditioned cocks and bens should share its few
wretched lanes and alleys with children of preter-
natural ugliness, and that the filth and sewage of
the town should first trickle down the sides of its
houses and then lie exhaling foetid odours in an
open ditch ; that deal: fish and garbage lie steaming
in the sun because the inhabitants are too lazy or
too ignorant to remove them ; are not pleasant pe-
culiarities. Nor are they redeemed by any note-
worthy characteristics or picturesque costumes
among the people. The foul odours and miserable
narrow thoroughfares of an old-fashioned French
town are to be found here, without an atom of be
character or architecture which in Normandy ce
Brittany so often condones both, and yet with a
hardihnod.*witich
what! itpaii scut/mita by people who have seen
Whitechapel and visited the slums of Seven Dials.
The tradition that Robin Rood dwelt here, and
that his butts are on the cliff above, is not believed
in or talked about. It is the "quaintness "of the
place and the curiosity of its population which is
moulted on by everybody. All the men and women
we saw were as conventionally attired as tbe but.-
terman who sells us eggs, or the peasant whistling
at the plough. A black eye and a dirty shirt are
quaint, and the contents of a scavenger's cart if de-
posited in a dairy would look curious, but they would
be scarcely worth a journey to visit ; and though
from the formation of this filthy town you may look
down upon and into its miserable houses, much as
Gulliver did at Liffiput, even this pursuit becomes
monotonous after a time, and the deceived visitor
from Whitby, or elsewhere, who says in his heart,
" I'll be revenged for this disappointment !" cannot
do better than recommend the jaunt to the neat
person he meets. The bay itself is fine, but not
finer than several others on the coast.

THE EVANGELICAL kmaarter..—The proceedings
were resumed in the theatre of the Royal lostitutioe, Hull,
on Thursday morning, and commenced with devotional ex-
ercises, in which the Revs. R. Belpre* Scarborough (char.
man), Leal Haddock, Rem Taylor, Bristol ; J. Smith,
Wishnick • E. Jukes, Hull ; and G. Sent, Newcastle,
took part: Conferee°, business was then transacted.
Os the motion of the Rev. Dr. Stems, seconded
by Mr. Hobert Baxter, the Hon. Lord Benholm•
was voted to the chair, and delivered an address.
Papers were afterwards ;sad by the Rev. T. D. H.
Battersby, M.A.,
and incumbent of Stht. Johneedn's,
of a Flak, on
"The privileges of believers, etronger
faith to obtain mightier results for the church and the
world • " and by the Bet. Professor M•Cosb, LL.D.,
Quesnis College, Belles, on "The broad and narrow
church in all denomination " lo the evening a meeting
was to be held to consider "The gospel in foreign cone-
tries," whoa represestatives from Holland, Italy, Francs,
Switzerland, and Swedes' were expected to be preeent, to
supply information on the following subjects :—L The
progress of the work of God in foreign lands. 2. The fifth
general °entrees°, of Christiana of all nations. to be held
in Hollaod next year. 3. Relic:one liberty in foreign coun-
tries, and recent notion taken is its defence.
INcont Tax.—A parliamentary return, issued
esterday, shows that 308,416 per
inea ain Great Britrio,
aving incomes amounting altogether to 95,844,2221. were
taxed under Schedule D for the year ending Sib April,
1864. The totals for the emendlog year were 293,468 pee-
sons. having an imams of 93,322,8641. Of the year ending
in 1864 it seems that the class of income zno,t numerous
wee that ranging between 1001. rail 200!. a veer. mum
such incomes were taxed and yielded 401.5•28/. locomen
between 2001. and 3001. numbered 41,5924. and yielded
268,475/. Incomes above three and under four hundred,
number 18,278, sod the next elan between four end five
handfed numbers only 9,313 ; bat the incomes between
5001. and 6001. number 7,097. This decrease on
the previous elms, it will be observed, is far lees
then the ethics ; as M persons in doubt about their in-
comes thought NW. a good rotted sum to put down. The
incomes between 9001. and 1,0001. numbered 941. yielding
25,570/. and thee, between 1,0001. end 20004 num-
bered 6,862, and yielded 254,744/. The incomes between
5,0001. and 10,0004 numbered 1,141, and yielded 105,7871. ;
between 10,0001. and 50,0004 numbered 731, and yielded
410.220!. ; and the Meows of 50,0001. and upwards num-
bered 91, and yielded 255,0554 The total number of
incomes taxed under Schedule E, for the year ending the
sth of April, 1864, were 103,577, and the amount taxed
18,474.0311. Them totals weft a decree*, on the returns
made for the previous year, is which the incomes Num-
bered 104,368, sad the amount taxed wee 19 463,0351.
In Ireland, 17.467 incomes, amounting to 4.368,6104, nem
taxed B
ret the year leading in 1864 ; and the previous
year's urn shows 17,4.38 incomes, amounting to
4,673,7431. This small decrease seems to have taken pine,
in no puticaler elites; and the same may be said et in-
-00111116 returned under Schedule D, which numbered in the
latter year 6,324, sad arnoonted to 1,152,7071., and
is the femme year mattered 6,242, bat amounted to
1,237,0461.
Euecnom EXPENSOL—A return ban just been
mode of the expenses incurred by the enedidates at the
late Grantham election. 11. r. J. H. Thorne!, M.P., ex.
needed 3961., et whin 231/. was paid to the election west
aedeolieiton. Mr. W. E. Welby, M.P., expended 2431., of
which 1061. was paid to emote. Mr. Tollemsehe, tits un.
- . . - the - claim being