The Express.
London, England, 1865-08-31 00:00:00

'BESS, THURSDAY E

foifisPrzet4T,
• •.*:llFroai 1040
jte! wee:her * been WereLl e lately
has lillffiriedE of elldi dielou`ty le. *Se wed
lellettes are mat suitable ; but, an our leaders 4 Winn are
sitber travelling or preparing to do so, the mate/tale made
up for them have been whet are called " etoffee de demi.
salmon," snob se mohair, poil de olievre, alpaca, linos, fou-
lard, silk poplinettes, sad even needing. Tolle, tarlatans,
gam de °heathery, grenadine, and the muslin Lad other
light materials, see kept for in-door and evening toilettes ;
but, of course, Amid the weather become warmer, we may
hope for their reempeerame out of daces.
Dresses are made as long and so full as ever ; and, as we
mainland last month, if looped up, the under petticoat
should not be many inches from the ground, except foe
very young ladies. Coloured petticoats will be much wore
at the esa.eide. When the deem is worn ors the above the
skirt may be festooned all round ; but for merely walking
dress on the promeaules, it is worn looped up at each side
of the frost breadth only.
The newest and most sliest way of fastening the dress
is by straps of velvet or sills attached rotted the waist by a
bead and booklet. They fall over the skirt, and have a
patent book at the sod. Eyes are fastened to the seams of
the skirt, and whet not required to be looped, the drape—
generally five in number—are allowed to hang loosely on
the skirt, forming every pretty anemone If made in black
velvet and ornamented with beads or button, they oan be
worn with different dreams. The one we saw was of black
velvet piped with white ; at the waist it was about an i nch
and a half wide ; and increasing gradually in width, till at
the end it was five inches. The strap was poiatei at the
end, and trimmed all the way up with graduated more
buttons.
Many ladies who do not etre for the incumbrenee of two
skirts, trim their single one so as to produce the appear-
ance) of a double skirt or turtle. This is sadly done by
putting a flame on the beat breadth, with buds of
trimming down the treat breadth seems, sad °entitling
them round the skirt. In other cases the trimming Is pat
on in the cisme manner; but the flounce, on the oontrary,
is put on all the except the front me. Either of
them styles gives quite the appearance of an over sad
uuder skirt.
Paletots of the same material as the dresses with which
they are wore, are still mal. without sleeves. This is •
fasbies likely te matinne, as it wee very inoonvenient to
have to wear one sleeve above soother. Some **tote are
made without sleeves even when they are of • different
material Lod colour to the dregs with which they are worn ;
but though it is our duty to threnkle this hellion as having
midi its appears/see, dill it does not at all meet with our
spprobation.
Small circular owed are worn, specially by quite young
ladies. When made of the same material as the dress they
have a very ladylike and distingee apposessee. The half-
fitting piston are made rather shorter than they have
been lately, and perhaps • tries closer to the figure ; many
of them an made open at the back of the skirt, and
fastened by buttons.
A few et these *leeks are worn with • bead and bookie,
or sash outside, bat this is • fashion only adopted by ladies
who have not • just appreciation of the difference between
the two words, eccentric sad ffistingui%
Lattice omelets worm over white bodice ere still in great
favour, and certainly are most elegant adienets to • dies
they are geeerally laced on each side under the arms.
White bodies are very much worn and are as pretty and
ecrevenient • fealties as any Introdueed ' • they are merle in
• variety of material', according to the style of dress
adopted. White llama bodies triunesd with sorrow
velvet ribbons, and fastened by buttons of the same colour,
are p
excessively rett. The str'ped loom bodies are
also mach in favour,y black and white being the favourite
colours.
Strips are as much In favour, either for petticoats,
demote, at cloaks. We have seen two or three very pretty
anima emotions with sleeves, and either with or without
hoods. They are preferable without the latter, as • hood,
if made in a striped materiel, destene the correct line.
The prettiest sea-side petticoats we have seen are made
of a white woollen material, very datable end soft, with
bands of colour. One, with which we were much pleased,
had • violet band about four inches wide, about three
inches above the hem. This band was embroidered i•
vine leaves sad grapes ; the leaves wan of white silk, and
the grapesforesed ey bunches of small white buttoae.
Them pontoons should seldom be more than four yards
round, es they are rather heavy, and, if hingiog In folds,
would spoil the shape of the crinoline and the set of the
deem
The most useful petticoats are the whin, trimmed with
black, as they can be won with my colour.
The food between the chapeau Empire and the chapeau
Fermium is at last nearly decided in favour of the former—
not the hideous shapes first introduced under that name,
but an elegant and simple modification. The real chapeau
Empire, elegantly wore, preemies very much the appear-
ance of a small cottage ounet. only not covering the face
so much as the sbspe known by that name. The certain
a small straight band.
Same few milliners have attempted an imitation by the
means of a straight ribbon felled on the bonnet ; but this
has a very wee sad homemade apex:wee" sad is
never likely to be adopted by anyone with pretension to
taste. la
The chapeau Empire is more elegant In straw than
any other material, though the form can be applied to any
article of which hoenete are usually made. The Famine
boomt has by se memo disappeared from the bornoo of
fashion, especially for young liaise, for whom the Empire
form is, pulley*, rather too matronly.
lists now worn have not undergone much 'iterative in
shape, though there is more variety than ever in ornament-
ing this, he feathers are often placed with the points to
the front of the bat ; they are always worn partly
over the orown,
The Moissonneuse bat, with the blood brim, Is generally
trimmed with wild flowers, fruit, or straw tassels ; the
latter are not ecresiderad so cheesy as either fruit or dowers.
Them trimmings are generally accompanied by long ends of
ribbon or velvet floating at the back.
Long tulle veils are excessively homevecient to weer
with • bat, as they are difficult to arrange gracefully,
while the small mask veils, as they are calla
keep in their place. We shall be very sorry them
dethroned, though it would not be for long, as the ficetieg
weds are very inconvenient in wet or windy weather. The
letter are generally made gene plain, sometimes even
without any hem ; towards the autumn they will very
likely be hemmed, with • ribbon run in, which will help to
keep the veil ro its place.
Small veils of bleak lace or spotted tulle are still worn
trimmed with beads, but we are happy to find that the
rage for gold spangles, crescents, and coins, lately worn on
Ones articles, is much on the decrease ; scything so exces-
sively showy was course adopted by the vulgar directly—
a fact at say time sufficiest to induce its discontinuities by
• lady of good taste.

The " Journal and Correspondence of Miss
Berry, edited, with Introduction and Notes, by Lady
Theresa Lewis," is to be published in the approaching
month.
The new work on the " Comparative Anatomy
end Physiology of the Vertebrate Asimals," by Professor
Owen, is expected to be ready for publication in the month
of Ozteber.
An authorised English translation of " Mozart's
Lettere, edited by Dr. Rohl, sod Imuslited by Lady
Waltzer," will be ready in October.
In October Messrs. Longman will publish "The
Temporal Mission of the Holy Ghent, or Ramos and Rave-
lotion," by the Right Rev. H. E. Maiming. D.D. This
work will treat of the relations of the Holy Spirit to the
Church, to the Science of Theology, the Letter of the Holy
Scripture, the Interpret►tlon of Scripture, and the Tradi-
tion of Dogma.
A new work, entitled the "Treasury of Botany,"
will be published by Mean. Loogmsa in the month of
September, under the )drat-editorship of Professor Lindley,
sad Thomas Moore, F.L.S., Curator of the Botanic
Garden, Chelsea ; assisted by Professor Balfear ; the
Rey. M. J. Berkeley, F.L.S.; John Bull, F.A.S.;
the Rev. 0. A. Johns, F.L.S.; J. T. Etyma F.L.S.;
Maxwell T. Masters, M.D., F.L.S. ; Dr. Berthold Seamans,
W. Ca-ruthers, F.L.S., and other practical botanists.
The American poet, William Cullen Bryant, bas
purchased the homestead in his native town of Cummiog-
ton, Hampshire °musty, Mess., sod is refitting it for a sum-
mer reeideara, He has been spending a pert of the summer
there.

The proposed memorial to the late Captain Spoke
is to be a granite obelisk, similar to the on erected to the
memory of Lieutenant Bella. at Greenwich. Sir R. I,
Morobisoo, Colonel Rigby, and the Right Ron. N. N. Ad-
dington, Memo. F. Calton, and C. R. Markham, have been
appointed an execrative committee in order to carry oat the
usetseary arrangements. An additional sem is still re-
quired to complete the 1210011031110 i, sad se very little mosey
I has hitherto ben transmitted from India, owing, it is bsi
heard, totbe want of dee loforrnation on the subject, ap-
' peals have been made to the of oars of the Indian army.
Mr. Smyth, director of the regimental band of
the Royal Artillery at lised-qnsrlere. Woolweek, wee yester-
day ordered by telegram from the Hone Guards to satemble
him corps, coosistieg of 70 performers, and praised with the
shortest possible delay to Portsmouth, to take part I. the
eatertaiement now being given to our aIIM, the French
egesdreo.