The Express.
London, England, 1853-10-22 00:00:00

THE NORTII-I{ES2' PASSAGE.

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We continue oar publication of the despatches
received by the Admiralty relative to the discovery
of the North-West Passage :

Her Majesty's Discovery Ship Investigator,
clf Cape Bathuret, Pala Sea, August 30,
111.50, in lat. 70 23 N., long. 128 33 W.

Sir,—ln accordance with the intention expressc l at the
conclusion of my last lever, I proceeded in the first whale-
boat, accompanied by Dr. Armstrong and Mr. Miertsebing,
followed by Lieutenant Cresswell and a party of officers in
in a cutter, briuging a variety of presents. We were met
upon landing by two women,who greeted us very cordially,
and through the medium of the interpreter, acquainted me
that the remainder of the tribe were at Cape Bathurst,
catching whales, which was at no great distance, and
they would be our guides. Gladly availing ourselves
of this apparently fortunate incident, the boats were
directed to Full along shore, while we, a•cending
the cliff, reached a fine level plain, extending
several miles north and south, rich with verdure,
and abounding in moss. We preferred walking, hoping
to meet some reindeer, for which the pasture was excellent,
bat mile after mile was walked without any appearance of
the fishing party. Arriving after the expiration of three
hours in a small bay, we were, however, gratified at being
told this wis the spot where two boats, the year before last,
had pitched their tents for the night (Sir J. Richardson),
and we had to go a very little further. Or. reaching the
next bay we found there two tent', which our guides said
belonged to them, but the Cape or any appearance of the
tribe could not be seen. We declined going any; further,
as, in consequence of the wind falling light, the veuel was
by this time hull down. We were then kindly invited to
become partakers of their tents, and go on the nex, morn-
ing, which hospitable offer was not accepted ; but, bartering
several articles in exchange for salmon, and making them a
few presents, we returned on board, when at 10.30 p.m. it
becoming dark and foggy, and getting into 31 fathoms, we
anchored for the night.
August 31st, at daylight, found that we were between the
mainland and Bailey's Islands, about a mils from the latter,
the weather still foggy, with a moderate N.W. breeze, but,
determined, if possible, to discover the fishing party, at 7.30
cm. I left the ship, with Mr. Miertseting and Dr. Arm-
strong
in the cutter, and after coasting about 10 miles, dis-
covered, upon the extremity of Cape Bathurst, a large en-
campment,
consisting of 30 tents and nine winter houses,
numbering a little over 300 people. Upon landing upon a
very low isthmus, which connects within a few yards the
islands end mainland, we remarked a commotion at the vil-
lage. and a number of men rushed down the cliffs, launched
their kyacks, and crossed to meet us; hauling these light
and elegant skiffs on the beach, they advanced with knives
drawn and bows bent, evidently prepared for hostilities.
Finding by our gestures that our intentions were amicable,
their bows were returned to their sealskin cases, but the
knives they still retained. The interpreter told them that
out visit was friendly, and that they should put away their
knives. " Yee," said they, " when you do your guns." To
be allowed to carry the musket appeared a great favour, for
which they presented you with their knife, as a token of
friendship. We remained upwards of an hour; during the
greater part of the time, Mr. Miertaching was in earnest
conversation with the chitf—a fine, intelligent, middle-aged
man—upon the necessity of his forwarding our despateues
to the Mackenzie, which he promised most faithfully to
perform, for which he was to c.ceive • musket and ammu-
nition, and, upon his delivering the packet, a further
reward equal in value to a silver fox skin. He, however,
said that their tribe du not trade with the Mackenzie, but
with another further south, who in their turn nettle with
the Indiums who are in the service of the Hudson's Bay
Company; so, as they have to pass through three t-ibes of
the heathen before they come into the hands of civilized
man, I think it extremely probable that they may never
reach their destination. Mr. hliertsching, from his know-
ledge of the Esquimau: character, thinks otherwise, and
imagines that the chief will himself carry them. The perfect
case with which this gentleman understands and converses
with these interesting people surprises them very much ;
they were most anxious for him to remain, promising to be
very kind. The chief presented his daughter, a very pretty
girl of about 15, who should be his wife • tents and all
appurtenances were to be added. While these negotia-
tions were going forward, upwards of 100 persons bad de-
scended from the village; with such a concourse I did nut
think it prudent to open the bag containing the presents,
well Knowing their cupidity is easily excited by the display
of such valuables, when they are nut to be relied on. We
consequently returned to the boat. When the chief was
instructed in the use of his gun, he showed himself an apt
pupil, and when the ammunition was given into his
hands, expressed himself very much gratified at the
gift, and walked towards the village with his chief
men. A lino was then made on the beach, which
the recipients of gifts were hot to pass (and this they
perfectly understood); the interpreter then commenced
the distribution. For a little time order was main-
tained, but the fair se: becoming clamorous and closing
round, the line was brokon, sod to prevent being driven
into the water we were compelled to retreat to the boat,
which was laying aground about twenty yards from the
beach. By this manceavre, we escaped from all that had
not on wrstqutight boots, but still about forty surrounded
the cutter ; sad, although the crew were stationed round
her to prevent their getting on board, so eager and per-
severing were the women that several were lifted in, en-
deavouring to seize everything within their reach ; one of
them in the most dexterous manner slipped the compass
out of its box into the breast of herjacket, and with diffi-
culty it was recovered. It was only by great
.firmness and
stoppage of the supplies that reduced them to order, or
to quit the bust. The presents being at length dis-
tributed, and every one in good humour, we wished
them farewell, and commenced launching the boat, in
which operation they most vigorously assisted, end
17, in their fairy kyaeks escorted us to the ship,
arriving about a quarter Of an hour before we did—
except one, who having got some little distance off the
shore, encountered a fresh breeze and rough sea. We
shortened sail, and took boat and all in. The poor fellow
being drenched we offered him a little brandy, which he
drank at a mouthful, not being aware of its strength. He
suffered the sensation to subside without evincing (except
by his eyes watering) any symptom of vexation, and then
asked for water. Many came on board the ship, but one
only ventured below, who was exceedingly surprised to
find that we had not tents but houses (cabins), and said he
should have many wonderful things to relate when he
went home. This tribe is a fine intelligent race—cleanly,
handsome, and well grown ; and I deeply regret that so
little has been hitherto attempted in civilising them. I
sincerely hope that the day is not far distant when this in-
teresting people may be redeemed from their deplorable
state of heathen darkness.
At 5.40 p.m. we weighed, with a moderate b from
the S.W., and reached to the S.E. for the purpose of clear-
ing the Bailey Islands. At 9 tacked and stood to the
N.W., the wind becoming light and variable. During the
night we made but little progress . • and at 8 cm. on the
morning of September I observed Cape Bathurst, N.B. by
IL, 6 miles. In the course of the forenoon many kyacks
came off. The natives, now assured of our friendly intern-
lona, came oa board without the slightest reluctance, and
through the medium of the interpreter, acquainted us that'
during the night they had been preparing a feast, roasting
whale and venison, and had salmon, blubber, and other de-
licacies, besides plenty of skins ready at the tents, and
hoped we would coats on shore, which, indeed, I should
very much have enjoyed had the vessel been in a less preca-
rious position; but under the present circumstances it was
impossible, which it appeared that those on shore under-
stood, for in the afternoon a great many of both sexes
visited us • and, all being clamorous to get on board, we
were obliged to 'take their kyacks on deck. Seeing
their boats were in safety, they made themselves per-
fectly at home, examining every article of furniture most
minutely. The pictures an looking•glasses in the offi-
cers' cabins were objects of much admiration. Mane
were dancing with our men, and so mutually happy
wege all parties, that it was near six o'clock before I
could get them to leave to ship ; indeed, had not the inter-
preter told them that we were going towards the pack, gad
would not again come sear their tents, I very much ques-
tion if we should have got them away without compulsion.
We understood from them that the main pack is permanent,
leaving the shore above 12 or 14 miles. They desig-
nate it as the " land of the white bear," as it abounds with
those animals, which they appeared rather to dread, as,
when we stood towards the peck in the forenoon, they en-
treated not to be left there as they were fearful of the bear
now that so many of their women were with them. One
mother mentioned that she bad her little child carried away
Isg one of them a short time previous, while playing on the
shore a little distance from her. The poor creature shed
tears in relating the catastrophe. At parting several pre-
sents were bestowed upon them, which had the effect of
eliciting promises of friendship for us or any of our white
brethren who might come on their coast. These people
had no article of European manufacture, except • few
iron pots, which certainly they gave a very formidable
price for—no lees than five of the beet silver fox-skins for
each. The tribe leave the Cape about the 20th of Sep-
tember, when the ice is sulleleatly strong to bear their
sledges, for the purpose of bartering with the bordering
tribe; they then go to their winter louses Nome distance
inland, with the exception of • few families, who live the
entire year upon this bleak and inhospitable shore. Sep-
tember 2nd. Fine day, with light northerly wind ; ran along
the pack edge, the ice being heavy and impenetrable, .not a
drop of water to be seen from the mast-head among it ; the
water between it and the shore is practicable, although
encumbered with mach loose ice. Experienced a strong
current from the south-east, which set us to the westward
of the Bailey Islands. Upon the morning of the 3rd, the
wind gradually veered to the southward, bringing with it
a very dense fog, and, being at the time surronaded with
heavy too pieces and close sailing ice, through
which it was necessary to pursue our course, so that
every advantage might be taken of the favourable
breeze, the vessel occasionally came into violent collision.
At noon it cleared a little, when Trail Point bore S.S.W.
about seven miles; soucded in 65 fathoms (mud); the
nights having a few hours darkness, blue lights and rocket.
are fired for the purpose of attracting the attention of any
parties that might be returning from Wollaston or Victoria
Lando bound to the Meehan:ie.—September 4. Light va-
riable winds, with warm weather, the temperature ruing to
SI deg.; the water along shore free from ice; about four
miles to the westward:of the Horton, sounded is 83 fathoms,