Patent GB-112638-A (GB)
Title: Method of, and Sewing Machine for, Attaching an Elastic Strip to Garments and the like.
Inventor: WEIS JOHN PETER
IPC: D05B35/06
Filed: 1916-10-18
Abstract: 112,638. Weis, J. P. Oct. 18, 1916. Sewing-machines; cords, braids, and the like, attaching; folding-devices.- Relates to a method of and means for attaching an elastic band to a piece of work, such as the waist band of a garment. The elastic band is fed, withcut tension, to and secured to some parts of the work and is fed under tension to other parts of the work without being positively secured to the work at these parts. The invention is described as applied to the insertion of an elastic band in a hem formed in the two sections A B, Fig. 6, of a garment. Over the part indicated at D of the section B the elastic band is fed with. out tension and is secured bv one of the rows of stitching securing the edge of the hem. From E to F, the band is fed under tension, and is loose in the hem, being fastened at F so as to pucker the material over this part. The corresponding parts of the section A are similarly formed. The mechanism for guiding the elastic band and forming the hem is shown in Fig. 7, 57 shows an adjustable guide for the edge of the hem which is formed by the folding-device 60. The elastic band 97 is passed through a slot 63, formed at 45 de-. grees in the top of a flattened guide tube 62 and thence to the stitching means. The tube 62 is carried on the end of a bar 64, guided by pins and slots on the work-plate and having a. downturned end 67 adapted to be engaged by a wedgeblock 68 against which it is held by a spring 99. The elastic band passes from the supply between a tension plate 86 and a plate secured to the front of the work-plate and through a slot 66, in the bar 64. The tension plate is secured to the fixed plate at 87 and is held to its work by a spring surrounding a rod passing through the hole 88 and provided with a head for adjusting the pressure. The tension is released by a wedge-finger 71 being forced between a projection 94 on the tensionplate and a similar projection on the fixed plate. The block 68 and finger 71 are fixed on a rod 69, pressed downwards by a spring, and upwards by a treadle-operated lever. To produce the part of the work shown at D, the rod 69 is forced upward so as to relieve the tension on the band 97 and move the guide 62 to the left in order to bring one edge of the band under one of the needles. The other part of the work from E to F is produced by allowing the rod 69 to descend, thus tensioning the band 64 and moving it out of the range of the needles. In a modification, the block 68 is omitted and the bar 64 fixed, the natural contraction of the elastic band when tensioned being relied on to take the band clear of the action of the needles. Feed by dogs; feed by devices engaging the upper surface of the work.-The machine employed has stitch-forming mechanism of ordinary type comprising two needles and a single looper. The feed consists of a lower feed-dog 20, Fig. 2, carried by a bar secured to a shaft 24 which is supported by a rocking frame 13 and is operated for reciprocating and vertical movements by connexions to eccentrics on the main shaft. 'The lower feed-dog co-operates with an upper feed-dog 27 which has two prongs, one operating in a recess in rear of the presser foot and directly in line with the stitching devices, and the other on the inside of the presser foot. This foot is secured to a shaft 25 supported in the end of a bar 23 which is secured to the shaft 24. The shaft 25 has a forwardly extending arm 34 which is connected by links 35, 36 to the ends of a plate 38 pivotally supported at 39 to a block 40 with an aperture for the passage of the presser-bar 22 and a slot straddling the presser-bar guide-bar 43. The block is pressed down by a spring surrounding the presserbar and abutting on an adjustable stop 46 and the block and is limited by a stop-pin 50 on the guide-bar. The mechanism provides simultaneous vertical movement in opposite directions of'the dogs 20, 27 tn clamp and release the work.