Patent GB-732210-A (GB)
Title: Process for the manufacture of permanent local mechanical effects on crepe fabrics
IPC: D06Q1/02
Filed: 1953-09-28
Abstract: In a process for patterning crepe fabrics, e.g. of rayon, using mechanical treatment such as friction calendering and embossing, the fabric is first impregnated with a solution of a softener, dried under tension, locally printed with a solution of a synthetic resin precondensate, subjected to the mechanical treatment, heated at a temperature exceeding 100 DEG  C. to cure the synthetic resin precondensate and then subjected to a wet treatment and dried.  Dyes, colour pigments, or compounds forming such substances, and/or metal powders may be added to the synthetic resin precondensates.  The wet treatment may consist in washing in water or in a treatment with a weak solution of a swelling agent, e.g. an alkali hydroxide solution. Several examples of the process are given.  In one example a crepe de chine fabric of viscose rayon is pretreated and bleached in conventional manner, and then softened by impregnation with a solution of a softener and dried at a maximum width by being stretched in the longitudinal direction and tentered.  The fabric is then printed with a preparation consisting of 175 parts of methylol melamine precondensate, 90 of water, 10 of a cation-active hydroxy alkylamine fatty acid ester, 5 of ammonia, 500 of alkagum, 10 of ammonium thiocyanate and 50 parts of a colour pigment.  The fabric is then dried at 35 DEG  C., friction calendered at 180-200 DEG  C., cured for 4 minutes at 140 DEG  C., washed and dried.  Shiny-coloured printing effects on a white ground are obtained.  In another example instead of using a friction calender, the fabric is hot-pressed in an embossing calender, cured, washed, subjected to a treatment with caustic potash solution for 3 minutes, and rinsed in hot and cold water. Coloured relief patterns on a crepe white ground are obtained. The fabric may be printed in different areas with solutions of synthetic resin precondensates containing dyes of different colours, e.g. on a green dyed fabric, black print and silver print effects are produced.  The softener may consist of a solution of 15 grammes per litre of a mixture of sulphonated fat and a fatty alcohol sulphonate.ALSO:In a process for patterning crepe fabrics, e.g. of rayon, using mechanical treatment such as friction calendering and embossing, the fabric is first impregnated with a solution of a softener, dried under tension, locally printed with a solution of a synthetic resin pre-condensate, subjected to the mechanical treatment, heated at a temperature exceeding 100 DEG  C. to cure the synthetic resin precondensate and then subjected to a wet treatment and dried.  Dyes colour pigment, or compounds forming such substances, and/or metal powders may be added to the synthetic resin precondensates.  In one example the fabric was printed with a preparation consisting of methylol melamine precondensate, hydroxyalkylamine fatty acid ester, ammonia, alkagum (carob bean meal), ammonium thiocyanate, water and colour pigment.  In another example the preparation consists of polymethylol melamine precondensate, crystal gum, gold bronze, ammonia, water and a catalyst (triethanolamine glycolate).  In a further example the fabric was printed with a two-colour pattern using preparations one consisting of dimethylol melamine precondensate, carob bean meal, silver bronze powder, diethyl tartrate, ammonia and water and the other consisting of the same resin precondensate, cetyl sulphate, ammonia, carob bean meal, ammonium phosphate, colour pigment and water.