Patent GB-191309842-A (GB)
Title: Buttonhole Cutting and Stitching Machine.
Inventor: FAIRWEATHER WALLACE
IPC: D05B37/02
Filed: 1913-04-26
Granted: 1914-06-26
Abstract: 9842. Fairweather, W., [Singer Manufacturing Co.]. April 26. Button-hole sewing-machines.-In a machine in which the button-hole cutting and stitching mechanisms are adapted to be coupled to independent driving means, the order of the cutting and stitching operations may be reversed, so that the button-hole slit may be cut either before or after the stitching as desired. The invention is described as applied to a machine of the type represented in Specification 9841/13 wherein the cutting position for the work-holder is between its stitching position and the retracted position of the travelling cutting-device. Fig. 21 shows the arrangement of the machine diagrammatically. The stitching-mechanism is operated by a shaft 6 driven by a pulley 57 through an automatic clutch, and is of the type described in Specification 9460/12. The cutting-mechanism is operated by a shaft 77 driven independently of the shaft 6 by a pulley 99 through an automatic clutch, and is of the type described in Specification 9159/12. To provide for the different types of buttonhole required, the cutter-carrying block is equipped with interchangeable cutters or punches as described in Specification 11,671/14. The starting-rod 127 is adapted to be shifted axially by the starting-treadle, and the position of the lever 131 on the end of the rod determines the order of cutting and stitching. In the position shown, cutting precedes stitching, but when the rod 127 is rocked by turning the lever 131 down against the stop 140, stitching precedes cutting. When cutting is to precede stitching, the axial movement of the rod 127 trips, by the arm 129, the automatic clutch in the pulley 99, and one revolution is imparted to the cutteroperating shaft 77, thus effecting the cutting of the slit. Just before the conclusion of this action, a cam 208 on the shaft 77 trips a lever 207, and brings a continuously reciprocating pawl 158 into operative relation with an adjustable rack-bar 148, the function of which is to rotate the feed-wheel 29 so as to bring the work rapidly into stitching position. At the end of its travel, the bar 148 trips the lever controlling the clutch on the shaft 6, and puts the stitching- mechanism into operation. The stitching- mechanism is stopped automatically at the end of the retrogade movement of the work-holder in the stitching of the second side of the buttonhole, a lug 245 on the work-holder tripping a lever 233. The return of the feed-wheel and work-holder to initial position is effected by a pawl 255 which comes into operation when the stitching-mechanism stops. The pawl 255 is actuated by a continuously running shaft. When the starting-rod 127 is set so that stitching shall precede cutting, the arm 129 is ineffective and the axial movement of the rod under the action of the starting-treadle operates a lever 196 to trip the detent holding up the continuously reciprocating pawl 158. As before, the rack-bar 148 brings the work quickly into stitching position, and starts the stitching- mechanism in operation. At the end of the stitching, the pawl 255 brings the work-holder back to initial position, whereupon a pawl 125 actuates a lever 123 to throw in the clutch of the shaft 77, and so bring about the operation of the slit-cutting mechanism. The tripping- devices are described in detail in the Specification. In lieu of a single starting-device two starting-devices may be employed, and the starting-rod may be connected with the cutting- devices so that the shifting of the starting-rod to determine the order of cutting and stitching will also select the appropriate cutter.