Patent GB-507680-A (GB)
Title: Improvements in or relating to a method of and apparatus for assembling the outer fabric and lining fabric of a necktie or the like ready for stitching
IPC: A41D25/00
Filed: 1938-02-11
Abstract: 507,680. Sewing neckties. STEVENS' A. H. (American Machine & Foundry Co.) Feb. 11, 1938, No. 4351. [Classes 112 and 141] A device for assembling the'lining and outer fabric of a necktie ready for stitching comprises mechanical means for folding the fabric and imposing the lining in a predetermined position on it ; the assembled fabric and lining may, while held in position in the device, be secured to a stitching frame for transfer to a sewing- machine. The device, shown in plan in Fig. 9, comprises a pair of end plates 25 connected by a horizontal plate 38, and a pair of brackets 28 pivoted to the end plates at 61 and carrying a plate 29 and a triple assemblage of plates 30<1>; a pair of plates 30 are slidably mounted on the plates 30<1> and carry rollers 34 engaging cam tracks 35 on the plates 25 so that the plates 30 are moved relatively to the plates 30<1> as the assembly carried by the brackets 28 is swung on its pivots. A work-holding member 63 is carried by arms 60 detachably mounted on the pivots 61, and is normally held against the brackets 28 by spring catches 66. In the normal position of the device, the plate 29 is horizontal and in line with the plate 38, these plates being separated by a narrow slot in line with a pair of vertical slots 36 in the end-plates 25 ; plates 50, 51 secured to the plates 29, 38 respectively are cut away to form a template to receive the tie fabric. The middle plate of the assembly 30<1> is cut away to form a template against which the folded edge of the tie fabric has to lie to bring the stitching line into a straight line. The folding of the. fabric is effected by a wire or other flexible or suitably - shaped rigid member attached to bars 41 sliding in guides on the end-plates 25, the wire sliding along the slots 36 and between the plates 29, 38 to draw the middle line of the fabric into the space between the outer plates of the assembly 30<1>; the bars 41 are operated by racks and toothed segments from a shaft 45 having return springs 47 and an actuating lever. The assembly 28, 29, 30, 30<1> is then turned down to the position shown, the plates 30 being slid outwards by means of the cam track 35 so that a template cut in the upper plate 30 to receive the tie lining L lies correctly positioned above the edge of the folded outer fabric T. A bar 97 carrying a series of spikes is then inserted into guides 98 on the plates 30 and pressed down through a slot 95 in these plates to pin the lining L to the fabric T as shown and to fix them to the workholder 63 by spring-catches on the ends of the bar 97 entering sockets in the work-holder. The assembly is then turned back to the initial position, the member 63 being held down by spring-catches 91 on the base of the device and thus released from the catches 66 so that the work-holder and assembled fabrics can be readily removed to the sewing-machine; the work-holder is formed with teeth for spacing the stitches. The swinging movements of the assembly are limited by stops 6S, 69.