Patent GB-190823965-A (GB)
Title: Improvements in Sewing Machines.
Inventor: BULASKY LOUIS
Filed: 1908-11-09
Granted: 1909-04-01
Abstract: 23,965. Bulasky, L. Nov. 9. Hat - sewing machines; overedge stitching; cords, applying.- A machine is described for sewing wire to the edges of hats by means of zigzag stitches, and is adapted for sewing the wire to the hat near the edge, as shown in Fig. 7, or against the edge, as shown in Fig. 8, in which case the stitches first enter the material and then the wire covering, or as shown in Fig. 9, in which case the stitches first enter the material and then pass outside the wire, the edge being afterwards bound over. Needle-bars, vibrating laterally.-The needle-bar c reciprocates vertically in a frame d which is oscillated about a vertical axis by means of a member g sliding in guides and operated by a cam e<1> secured to a gear-wheel, which engages a pinion e<3> of half the size, on the main shaft b. The cam e<1> engages a stud f<1> on a slotted regulating-lever f, which is connected by a link f<2> and block f<3>, to give an adjustable throw to the slide g. The slide g is connected to the needle-bar frame by a ball-andsocket joint. A projection g<5> on the lower end of the slide g enters the groove k<2>, Fig. 12, of a hub k' slidingly mounted on the hollow main shaft b. A finger k<3> on the hub k<1> engages a lug k<4> on an inner shaft k. The lug k<4> moves in a slot b<6> in the hollow shaft k, and the shaft k, which carries the looper i on the hub i<1>, is thus rotated and at the same time reciprocated longitudinally in conjunction with the needle. Governing needle thread.-To relieve the tension on the thread when the needle approaches the lower end of its stroke, short shaft c<2> is provided in the frame d, To one end of this shaft is secured an arm c<3> carrying a pad c<4>, which normally presses the thread against the guideplate c<5>, being held thereon by a spring c<7> cooperating with an arm c<6> secured to the other end of the shaft c<2>. The descent of the needle-bar b<4> withdraws the pad slightly by co-operating with a cam-projection c<8> on the arm c<6>. The usual thread tension-device is mounted on the slide g, and therefore moves in synchronism with the frame d. Work-supports; guiding materials.-Instead of having a wide opening in the throat-plate to accommodate the lateral movements of the needle, the plate is provided with a depending lug which engages in a groove i<2>, Fig. 12, in the looper hub, by which means the throat plate is moved in synchronism with the needle and looper. The work guide is adapted for the different kinds of work required and for wires of different thicknesses. It comprises a plate o, Figs. 1 and 4, adjustably secured to the machine base, upon which is pivoted a bent guide p<2> having a finger p' to lie under the edge of the hat. The guide is held down by a spring. Two outside guides q,r are also slidingly mounted on the plate o, the former having a lip q<1> to rest against the outer side of the wire, when the wire is to be stitched upon the brim as in Fig. 7. The guide r, which has a limited sliding movement and is fixed by a screw stud, is held out of operative position by a pawl s except when the wire is to be stitched against the brim, in which case a spring holds the lip of the guide yieldingly in position so that it may move slightly to the right as the needle descends into the wire covering, as in Fig. 8. Feed.-The usual four-motion feed may be imparted to the dog h<1>, the to-and-fro movement by an eccentric h<5> on the main shaft acting through a link and a feed-arm, and the vertical movement by a fork embracing another eccentric on the shaft b. To compensate for wear on this fork, the eccentric may be replaced by a two-part sleeve h<9>, Fig. 10, and one member h<10> of the fork being made detachable, so that its surface in contact with the other part may be filed off and the two parts of the sleeve thus forced closer together when the member h<10> is replaced. In order to obtain two or three fastening-stitches at the end of a seam, the feed-dog h', Fig. 15, may be thrown out of operative position. For this purpose the dog is mounted on an arm h<12> pivotally mounted on the arm h<2>, the dog being normally held in operative position, against the action of a spring, between the latch disks h<15>, h<18> secured on a shaft h<17>. To throw the feed-dog out of action, a hand-lever h<22> is moved over and operates, through a sliding shaft h<21>, a fork h<20> and an arm h<19> to turn the shaft h<17>, a cut-away portion h<16> of the disk h<15> then allowing the spring to release the dog.