Patent GB-378054-A (GB)
Title: Improvements in or relating to the manufacture of fabrics having crepe or similar figured effects
IPC: D06C23/04
Filed: 1931-03-02
Abstract: Textiles, treating; cellulose esters or ethers, dyeing.--A process for the production of textile fabrics exhibiting cr<\>zepe or similar figured effects from medium or high twist yarns made of or containing cellulose acetate or other organic derivatives of cellulose, comprises subjecting the yarns, before or after weaving, to an embossing operation so as to distort the yarns or threads.  An enhanced cr<\>zepe effect is thus obtained, or alternately, yarns of lower twist than that required to produce a cr<\>zepe effect without further treatment may be employed.  For the woven fabric, an embossing roller having a raised surface corresponding to the surface of a cr<\>zepe fabric may be employed or surfaces consisting of a series of small intersecting geometrical figures such as circles, squares, triangles, &c., may be used, the usual finishing process in the latter case obliterating the figures and leaving the cr<\>zepe effect on the surface of the fabric.  The embossing devices, e.g. rollers, are adjustably spaced apart so as not to injure the fabric and may have intermeshing patterns thereon, which, however, do not actually contact with each other.  If the yarns, either warp or weft, are treated before weaving, the embossing devices may be similar to those used for the woven fabric or may consist of a series of regularly or irregularly disposed axial or diagonal ridges which flatten or corrugate the yarns.  The yarns may be produced as described in Specifications 357,576 and 357,577, [both in Group IX], and the embossing operation may be applied before, during, or after twisting.  Further, in order to improve the effect, yarns may be treated with swellable sizes such as are described in Specifications 352,000, 352,451, and 357,169, or swelling of the cr<\>zepe yarns may be resorted to as described in Specifications 348,589, 356,233, and 357,084.  Also, fabrics having alternate disposition of right- and left-hand medium or high twist yarns may be employed, or either the weft or the warp may have low twist yarns.  The fabrics or yarns may be treated with solvents or softeners for the cellulose derivatives before the pressing treatment, specified liquids for this purpose being acetone, alcohol, cyclohexanone, acetic acid, acetoacetic ester, lactic acid, ethyl lactate, diacetone alcohol, glycerine, and the mono- and di-ethers and esters of olefine and polyolefine glycols and glycerine, e.g. dioxane, ethyl glycol, ethyl glycol monoacetate, glycol monoacetate, the monoethyl ether of diethylene glycol monoacetate, monoacetin and diacetin. Non-plastifiers, such as triacetin and monomethylxylenesulphonamide, and lubricants, such as olive oil, oleic acid, and ammonium oleate, may be added to the softening liquid and water or benzene may be used as a diluent. Further, the fabrics may be subjected to the embossing treatment before or after dyeing or finishing, and in the first case the size used on the yarns may be such as to facilitate taking up the design, e.g. sizes containing glycerine, monoacetine or diacetine may be used. The yarns or fabrics treated may consist partly of natural or artificial filaments or fibres such as reconstituted cellulose, e.g. viscose, nitrocellulose and cuprammonium silk, natural silk, cotton and wool, and either the weft or warp may consist wholly of such yarns.