Patent GB-501977-A (GB)
Title: Improved process for producing crepe effects in textiles
Filed: 1937-09-08
Abstract: 501,977. Artificial threads &c. I. G. FARBENINDUSTRIE AKT.-GES. Sept. 8, 1937, No: 24494. Convention date, Sept. 30, 1936. [Class 2 (ii)] Artificial crÛpe yarns are obtained by spinning solutions containing a hydrophobe organic cellulose derivative and a hydrophil polymeric component, and the yarns are subjected to a high crepe twist. Instead of the hydrophil component there may be present in the spinning solution a polymeric component which becomes hydrophilic when the yarns obtained from the solution are subjected to hydrolysis, alkylation, amination, or other treatment. The hydrophil component may contain salt-forming acid or basic groups. The artificial threads immediately after production may be given the crepe twist in one or more stages preferably after being dressed with linseed oil. Before twisting they may be treated with a hydrophil agent such as soap, borax, triethanolamine, sodium acetate, or tetramethylammonium acetate, in the case of threads having latent acid groups (anhydride groups). In the case of threads having basic groups, the pretreatment is effected with acids having hydrophil anions, e.g. lactic, tartaric, citric, or hydrothiocyanic acid or a salt thereof. Twisting may be effected in a moist atmosphere or in presence of steam. The hydrophil properties may be diminished or temporarily annulled by treating the threads with various reagents; thus artificial threads of cellulose acetate containing a mixed polymerizate of maleic anhydride and a vinyl compound are treated with cation-active textile assistants such as an aqueous solution of dodecyl-trimethyl-ammonium chloride, octadecyl-trimethyl-ammonium chloride or octadecyl - trimethyl - ammonium acetate. Cellulose acetate threads containing polyacrylic #-diethylamino ethylamide may be treated with sodium laurate or sodium dodecyl sulphate. For producing the crepe effects, the goods may be suspended in book form in an alkaline liquid containing soap and borax, and The temperature may then be raised or the goods may be passed into a hotter bath to complete the ereping. The crÛping or shrinking effects mav be localized if the substances which develop the hydrophil character are printed as a pattern on the materials. In an example, a solution of cellulose acetate containing a mixed polymerizate from vinyl chloride and maleic anhydride is dry spun and the filaments are wetted in the spinning cell with a solution of triethanolamine in crystal oil. The threads are sized with a solution of linseed oil, blown rape oil and crystal oil and then twisted to an extent of 1,600 or more turns per metre. The crÛpe twisted threads are incorporated as weft in a crepe warp of cellulose acetate. The crÛpe effect may be obtained by treatment with a solution of soap and urea. The weft is readily dyed with basic dyestuffs. In another example, a weft consisting of alternate pairs of right and left twist CrÛpe threads of cellulose acetate containing a mixed polymer of vinyl methyl ether and maleic anhydride is woven into a warp of cellulose acetate. A crust crepe pattern is impressed on the fabric which is then de-sized with a soap solution. A crepe shrinkage is produced at the same time. The material is dyed with Cellitone fast blue B, soured, brightened with octadecyl-trimethylammonium chloride sodium acetate, and acetic acid, and stretched. In another example, a warp of cellulose acetate sized with glue and urea, is woven alternately with right and left crÛpe twisted threads consisting of cellulose acetate and polyvinyl chloroacetate. The fabric is passed through calenders and suspended for amination of the artificial resin in an atmosphere of pyridine. It is then subjected to the crepeing action of a warm solution of acetic acid. In another example, a cellulose acetate crepe warp is woven with right and left crepe twisted threads of cellulose acetate containing a mixed polymer from vinyl methyl ether, and maleic anhydride, and polyvinyl chloroacetate. The crepe thread is aminated by pyridine vapour before weaving. Crepeing is effected by means of a hot solution of soap. Specifications 455,602, 455,849, 459,711, and 502,907 are referred to.