Patent GB-190514215-A (GB)
Title: Improved Machinery for Embroidering Fabrics with Pile-threads.
Inventor: KLEUTGEN FRANZ
Filed: 1905-07-10
Granted: 1905-11-16
Abstract: 14,215. Kleutgen, F. July 10. Pile fabrics.-Relates to machinery for embroidering a fabric with pile threads, in which the fabric is stretched between feed-rollers 138, 139 and the needles are moved into position, according to the pattern, by a jacquard apparatus. To each repeat there is a carriage 17 having a suitable number of hollow needles 27 carried by needle-bars 26, slidingly mounted in it. The carriages are mounted on rollers 18, 19, which run on a guide-bar 8. Each needle carries a separate thread, and is provided with a spring clamp 32 which clamps the threads fast to the fabric when the needle is being withdrawn. One needle only of each carriage is used at one time. Below the needle carriages is a shaft 61 carrying a corresponding number of drums 62 having converging fillets 63, so that when one of certain pins 45, carried by the needle-bars, is depressed by the jacquard, through a cord 47 and lever 43, that pin is guided by the fillet to the central gate, thereby moving the needle carriage sideways and bringing the corresponding needle into the working position. In that position, a lug 36 on the needlebar is in line with a projection 41 on a bar 40, Fig. 3, so that, as the slide 38 is reciprocated by a cam 108 and links 111, 113, 116, that needle will be carried forward to insert a thread in the fabric. The working position is shifted step by step by a longitudinal movement of the drums, and when the repeat is finished they are returned to the initial position at one movement. To do this, the shaft 61 is continued beyond the side frame. A gear-wheel 65, engaging with a pinion on the driving-shaft 66, is mounted loosely on the extension, and can be connected to the shaft 61, to drive it, by a dog clutch 72, which is splined to the shaft and controlled by a lever 92. Near the side frame 2, a crank 71 is splined to the shaft 61 and, step by step, rotates a star. wheel 76, which is mounted on a screwed spindle 74 and can be engaged with it by a sliding feather 83. A nut 84 on the spindle 74 is integral with a sleeve 86 confined between two collars 85 on a shaft 61, so that, as the nut is advanced from the left, it carries the shaft 61 with it. It is connected by a slotted plate 150 with the bar 40, which carries the driving-projections 41 so as to impart to them a corresponding movement. A bar 96 is fixed to the nut, and controls the clutches by levers 92, 93, 94 and a link 95. At the commencement of the repeat, the nut is at the left, and, through a spring 98, the bar 96 holds the feather clutch 81 in gear with the star-wheel 76 and the dog clutch 72 in gear with the spur-wheel 65. When the nut is at the end of its traverse, the rod 96 bears against a block 104, pushes out the rod 99, and disengages the lever 93 and plate 106, and permits a spring 97 to move the clutch levers over. Thereby the feather 83 is withdrawn from the star-wheal 76, and the shaft 61 and wheel 65 are disengaged and the sewing-mechanism stopped. The lever 93, operating the clutch 91, engages the wheel 65 with a spur-wheel 88, which drives, through an intermediate wheel, a pinion on the spindle 74, and the nut is returned to the initial position on the left, the clutch levers are released as before, the clutches 81, 72 are re-engaged, and the sewing and step-by-step motion of the shaft 61 are recommenced. The feed-rollers 138, 139 carry worm-wheels 142, and the worms 143 are linked together by rack-rods 145. They are rotated through a ratchet-wheel 146 by a rack-rod 148, which is engaged by an arm 150 on the return stroke of the nut 84. After insertion, the threads are cut by knives 118, against which they are pressed by plates 121, when engaged by the ends of pivoted bars 126. The knives are moved with the carriages by spring pins 119. These bars are carried by levers 127, which are reciprocated by a cam 135, and they engage the plates 121 when pulled into line with them by jacquard cords 130. On the side of the fabric opposite to the needles is fixed a grating composed of plates set perpendicular to the fabric and filled, excepting those parts opposite to the needles, with pieces of linings. Combs 162 are mounted on a shaft 161, and engage between the plates. They are reciprocated by a bell-crank cam-lever 160, and are moved upwards, as the work is fed, by a pin on the rack-rod 145, Fig. 5, which engages with levers on the shaft 161. They are held in the raised position by props which catch against pins in the frame until the next outward vibration of the combs. In modifications, the jacquard may be replaced by a cam machine, the carriages 17 may swing round a fixed point, and the needles may be solid, or, if hollow, the clamping-apparatus can be dispensed with.