Patent GB-962584-A (GB)
Title: Method and apparatus for manufacturing garments of any size or shape, and applications thereof
IPC: A41H1/00
Filed: 1961-10-26
Abstract: 962,584. Measuring apparatus for pattern drafting. A. LEVY. Oct. 26, 1961 [Oct. 26, 1960; March 8, 1961], No. 38429/61. Heading A3V. [Also in Division G2] A method of manufacturing a garment from a photographic study of the outlines and shapes of the body of the customer along several distinct and previously defined planes consists in visibly representing reference points and lines on the surface of the body; calculating the true distance on the surface of the body between reference points on the basis of the photographic study; determining from these true distances the appropriate distances between given points on the garment pattern; preparing the pattern point by point either manually or by a graphical or cutting out method controlled in accordance with the last-mentioned determination step; manufacturing the garment on the basis of this pattern; and checking the garment during manufacture and before delivery by means of measurements obtained by calculation from the same true distances of the final distances that should exist between the points on the garment that correspond to the particular determinate points on the pattern, due allowance being made for the differences which exist between the pattern and the garment. The differences between the garment and the body it is to cover are taken account of in calculating the distances between points on the pattern by means of multiplicative and additive arbitrary constants selected in accordance with the manufacturing technique, the design and fabric used, and the customer's tastes, while in the calculation of the verification dimensions there are employed arbitrary constants depending on the width of the seams, the type of lining used, and the draw-in or stretch. Apparatus for carrying out the method comprises a photographic study station (Fig. 1) for taking photographs of the customer along distinct and previously defined planes, the customer mounting a revolving plate 2 in front of a cross-ruled back drop 8 and pressing his heels against the diametrically disposed bar 37 of a Tee 3, the station being provided with means for ensuring correct positioning of the customer, means for visibly representing reference points and lines on the surface of the customer's body, and calculating and drawing or cutting out devices operated in accordance with the distances between reference points indicated in the photographs. For representing reference points and lines on the customer's body, he wore (a) a two-way stretch overgarment 5 shown in detail in Fig. 2 bearing contrasting tacking stitches and to which coloured tapes 34 are secured to indicate the armpits (Fig. 13), the garment being held in place as shown in Fig. 13 by flexible tapes 15, 16, 17 of a fabric having hook-like fibres which adhere to ordinary fabrics; (b) elastic arm bands 32; and (c) a belt 33 around the seat. The height of the armpits is determined independently by means of a pair of telescopically mounted crutch-like members spring-urged upwardly and pivoted at their lower ends to a base board (Fig. 3, not shown) to allow for measurements on bodies of different widths. For positioning the customer at the photographic station, in addition to the Tee there is provided a vertically adjustable back rest 50 (Fig. 5) or 60 (Fig. 6) and on this is supported a spring-urged arm 64 carrying a disc 65 (Fig. 8) which is located between the shoulder blades. For determining the height of the body crutch, a spring urged telescoping bar carrying a cross piece 41 is mounted on the stem 47 of the Tee. The photographic record comprising front, side and rear profiles is produced by rotating the plate 2 and employing either contact-making members 9 (Fig. 1) or 67 Fig. 5, or the occultation of fixed photo-cells by a protruding bar secured against the subject's back e.g. bar 50 or 60 to effect triggering of the camera, the subject being illuminated by lamps behind opaque screens 7. Reference is made to using a punched card controlled or other electronic computer for making the calculations of the true distances between points on the body and allowing for the arbitrary constants which affect the values used in marking or cutting out the pattern.