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At this factory of Will & Baumer, immense quantities of candles are made for sareamental purposes of the Roman Catholic Church, which prefers them of pure beeswax. Some are of immense size, but all are not made of pure beeswax. Paradline is used very largely for the purpose, and the small candles for lawn-fetes and Christmas times, variously colored, are probably wholly paraffine, because that article costs less than half as much as beeswax.

how to detect duplicated wax.

We have already mentioned the fact that beeswax is lialle to aduliteration with paraffine or eeresin, and sometimes with ordinary bee - keepers, after brinstoning their old grease or fat. Some unscrupulous box-hive "skeps," and melting up the wax,*ad just enough tallow to increase the weight, because grease is cheap compared with the ordinary product of the hive. But such adulterations are very easily detected, both by smell and sight. The cakes have a greasy smell and feeling; and when subjected to the float test, presently described, they will immediately rise to the top of the liquid. Paraffine and eeresin adulterations are not so easily recognized; but nearly all pure bees

## WAX

Melaining wax from utensils.

Perhaps the readiest means is to immerse them in boiling water until all the wax is thoroughly melted off, then drain, while kept hot, until the wax which adheres to them when being lifted from the water is thoroughly melted, and can be wiped off with soft newspaper. Where the article can not be easily immersed,benzine or a solution of sal-soda will readily dissolve the wax so it can be cleaned off with a cloth. Benzine dissolves wax almost as readily as water dissolves sugar.

_Caution in handling weak.--_We have spoken about order, care, and cleanliness, in handling honey, candy, etc.; now, friends, it is a much more serious thing to dauh melted wax about the house, on the carpets and on your clothes, than it is to dauh either honey or candy. You can very easily spoil a dollar's worth of clothing while fussing with 10 cents' worth of wax, as we know by experience. When you commence, bear this in mind, and resolve that you are going to have things clean and neat at every step, no matter what the cost. Newspapers are very cheap, and it takes but a minute to spread them all around the room where wax may be dropped.

**WEIGHT OF BEES.** Some very interesting experiments were conducted by Prof. B. F. Koons, of the Agricultural College, Storrs, Ct., to determine the weight of bees and the amount of honey they can carry. The results of these experiments were given in _Gleanings in Bee Culture;_ and the article is so valuable we have thought best to preserve it in permanent form :

Some two years ago, in a leisure hour I went to my aplary and captured one outgoing bee from every hive and subjected them to the funes of cyanide of potassium for a few moments to render them inactive, and then weighed each bee upon our chemical balances\(-\)a pair of scales so dellectely adjusted that it is an easy matter to weigh the one-millionth part of a pound or the one-thousmouth part of a bee. From the weight of each separate bee it was a very simple problem in arithmetic to compute the number of bees in a pound. The results showed that mine, which perhaps are a fair average in size and weight, ran from 411 to 5690 in a pound. These results you published in _Gleanings_, and there expressed a wish that I would also determine the amount of honey carried by a homing bee. In any research for the weight of bees I took this just leaving the hive, which naturally would represent the normal weight, without extra honey or pollen.

During the present summer, when the bees were very active, I have undertaken to carry out your request as to the amount of honey carried by a bee.

**WIGTH OF BEES.** :

By method was this : From the chemical laboratory I secured a couple of delicate glass flasks with corks, marking them A and B. Each was very carefully weighed, and the weight recorded. I then went to a hive, and, with the aid of a pair of delicate plates, or pieces, I captured a number of incoming bees and dropped them into flask A. I then secured about an equal number of outgoing bees in flask B. These were then taken to the laboratory immediately, and each flask again weight-d, after which the bees were carefully counted and released. This operation was repeated quite a number of times, not on the same day, but as opportunity offered, and when the bees were bringing in an abundance of honey. I captured from 20 to 15 bees for each flask at each trip, aiming to hive, as a early as might be, the same number in each flask on any particular trip. I always weighed the flasks before starting out, test some little bit of soil or stain, or even moisture on the glass, would render the results less accurate; I also always allowed any moisture condensed upon the inside of the flasks, while the bees were confined, to evapo's rate before weighing for another trip. I then treated my results as follows : From the weight of flask and bees I deducted the weight of the flask; the remainder I divided by the number of bees confined on that trip. This gave me the average weight of the bees captured at that time. The average weight of the bees in flask A, or loaded bees, was always greater, as it should be, than the average weight of the bees in flask B, or unloaded bees. The difference between these two weights gave me the average amount of honey carried by that lot of bees.

**Mine are Italian and hybrid bees, but I made no attempt to determine the difference in the amount carried by the different swarms or breeds. I kept no record of the swarms except that I guarded against going to the same hive for a second lot of bees. A considerable difference does appear, but probably that arises in part from the abundance or scarcity of honey on any particular day when the colony was visited. My aml was to secure reliable results, as nearly as possible representing the average amount of honey carried by bees.**

**The following is the result of weighing several hundred each, of returning and outgoing bees. The smallest number of bees necessary to carry one pound of honey, as shown by my results, is 10,151 : or, in other words, one bee can carry the zebra (one ten thousand one hundred and fifty-fourth) part of a pound of honey; and the largest number, as shown by the results, required to carry a pound is 45,692 and the average of all the sets weighed is 20,167 : Perhaps, then, it is approximately correct to say that the average load of a bee is 10,167 : this measure is 20,600 bees in it, and each one makes one trip a day, they will add the bound to their stores. Of course, not all the bees in a colony leave the hive, the nurses remaining at home, hence necessitating more trips of those which do "go a field."

I also repeated my observations of two years ago on the weight of bees, and found that my numbers ran from 369 to 5495 in a pound, and the average about 480, the same as in my former test. I likewise secured the following on the weight of drones: Of a dozen or more weighed, the largest would require 180s to make a pound, and the smallest 2122, or an average of about 200s drones in a pound, over a against nearly 2000 workers. B. F. Koons, Agricultural College, Storrs, Ct., Sept. 3, 1895.

## Weight of Bees.

In a nutshell, and speaking in round numbers, we may say that it takes 4800 bees to make a round; and that, while 10,000 bees may carry a round of nectar, twice that number, or 20,000, is probably more nearly the average. During basswood bloom, the first figure should be considered as the nearer correct one because the bees drop down at the entrance; but from almost all other sources of nectar the twenty-thousand mark is the one to accept.

Let us now look at these interesting figures in another way: A bee _can_ carry half its weight in nectar; and perhaps, under certain circumstances, a trifle more; but, generally speaking, one-fourth its weight is the amount. A single strong colony has been known to bring in a trifle over 20 lbs. of nectar from basswood in one day;* but usually four or five pounds is considered a _remarkably big_ day's work. If we figure that there were, say, in the first instance (20 lbs, per day), 8 lbs. of bees, there would be 38,400 bees. If 20,000 of these were field-bees (estimating 10,000 necessary to carry a single round of basswood nectar), those bees must have made forty trips. On the same basis of calculation, a colony of equal strength that brought in 5 lbs. would make one-fourth as many trips, or an even ten. This would leave for each trip one hour for ten hours; or, in the ease of 20 lbs. a day, twenty minutes.

Both Profs. Gillette and Lazenby, the former of the Colorado Experiment station and the latter of the Ohio Experiment Station, conducted a series of experiments which closely approximate figures of Prof. Coons, so we are sure they are correct.

**WHEAVOOLIES, TO STRENGTH.** See Unitino, sub-head AlexanderPlan; also Nucleus.

**WHEAVOOD** (_Liriodcarbon Tulipifera_). This is often called the tulip-tree, we suppose from its tulip-shaped flowers.

After writing the foregoing, we concluded we did not know very much about the whitewood, especially the blossoms. So we traveled off into the woods, where we found a tree; but there were only buds to be seen, not blossoms. It must be too early in the season; but hard! whence come those sounds of humming-birds and humming bees? Whence, too, that rare and exquisite perfume? We

_Remarkably big_ day's work. If we figure that looked higher, and, away in the nisty top of the tree discerned, by the light of the setting sun, multitudes of bees flitting about. Oh that we were just up there! We looked at the rough trunk of the tree, and meditated that we were boys no longer, but forty years of age, or would be in a few months more. We might get up to that first limb: after a good deal of kicking and pulling, we did. The next was a harder pull yet; but soon the limbs were thicker, and finally we began to crawl upward with about as much euse as our year-and-a-half-old baby goes upstairs whenever she can elude maternal vigilance. Up, up, we went, until, on looking down, we really began to wonder what that blue-eyed baby and her momma would do should our clumsy boots slip, or a dead limb break unexpectedly. Now we were at the very summit of the tree, and, oh what a wonderful beauty we saw in those tulip-shaped blossons that peeped from the glossy-green foliage all about us! No wonder there was humming. Bumble-bees, gaudy-colored wasps, yellow Italians, and last, but not least, beautifully plumaged humming-birds, were all rejoieing in a feast of sweets. Every now and then one of the latter pansed before our very face, and, as he swung pendulumed in mid air, winked his bright little eyes, as much as to say, "Why, what on earth can _you_ be doing away up here in our domain?"

We picked off the great orange-colored, mottled blossons, and looked for the honey. We presume it was the wrong time of day to expect much; but inside, those large petals seemed to be distilling a kind of dark dew that the birds and insects were licking off. It tasted to us more like molasses than honey. In the cut our engraver has tried to show you what we saw in the tree-top.

As the sun had gone down, we commenced in a rather undignified way to follow suit, and, after resting a little, lumped home. Although stiff and sore, we carried an arndful of whitewood blossons to surprise the good folks who, probably, had never dreamed of the beanties to be seen only in the tree-tops

Our friends in the South have a great deal to say about what they call "polar honey;" and, if we are correct, the poplar is the same tree which we call whitewood. It blossons with them in April and May. We know what time it blossons here, for we thought about its being the 27th of May, when sliding down out of that tree. Shortly after, we received some bees from G. W. Gates, of Bartlett, Tenn. The combs were filled, even bulged out with a dark honey, such as we have described, and the bees had built fins of snow-white comb on the cover of their shipping-box. From this we infer the honey must be yielded in great abundance in those localities. We have seen it stated that the large flowers sometimes yield a spoonful of honey each. As the tree is often used for ornament, we make the following extract from _Fuller's Forest-Tree Cultivist_:

Lewes smooth, on slender petioles, partially three-lobed, the middle one appearing as though cut off; flowers about two inches broad, bell-shaped, greensils yellow, marked with orange; seeds winged, in a large cone-shape cluster which falls apart in autumn. The figure shows a single seed as it appears when separated from the mass. It blossons in May and June, and the seeds ripen in late summer or early autumn, and should be swn as soon as ripe, in good, moderately dry soil. They may remain in the seed - bed two years if desirable, but should receive a slight protection the first winter; tree of large size, sometimes 100 feet light, with a very straight stem; wood light color, greenish white, soft and light, not hard enough to receive a polish. It is much used in cabinet work, and for making panels for centrifuges, and for any inside work where toughness or a hard surface is not required. There is perhaps no native wood that will shrink more in seasoning than whitewood, for it not only shrinks sidewise but endwise as well; yet when once thoroughly sensed it remains fixed, and does not warp or twist like many of the hard and tough kinds of wood. There is also much difference in the character of the wood coming from different sections of the country, and mechanics who are conversant with the various kinds and localities will readily tell whether specimens came from the West or East. The latter is of a light greenish color, grain not so smooth and soft, and sometimes rather tough. The wood is but little used, except for the purposes mentioned above, and consequently it is only large trees that are of much value. It is one of the most beautiful ornamental trees we possess, growing in a conical form, and production an abundance of beautiful tulip-shaped flowers in spring. The roots are soft and sponge-like, and it requires great care in removing to insure success.

The question is often asked, "Is whitewood good for bee-hives?" It may do for sections and brood-frames, but it is very unsatisfactory for hives, for the reasons given in this extract.

**Willlow** (_Salix._) We have had little or no experience with this shrub. It does yield honey and pollen in some localities, and we can do no better than to copy an article with engrivings, from the pen of G. M. Doolittle, as given in _Gleenings in Bee Culture_, p. 486, Vol. XVII.:

Among the pollen-bearers we have several kinds of what is known here as "passy willow" (_Salix_) which put out their blossoms quite irregularly, some are a month earlier than others, and some of the buds on the same bush are ten days later than others. The kinds which seem to attract the bees most are the black willow, upon which the klimar-nock is budded, and those which produce a long cono-like flower similar to the black willow. The ice compusing cut gives a fair representation of the latter, a week or so after it is through blossoming and has partially gone to seek. From these two kinds the bees obtain large quantities of pollen, but, so far as I can ascertain, no honey. As this pollen comes the first of any which we have which amounts to any thing, I, I escent it of great value to the lees. Skunk cabbage gives pollen a little earlier, but we do not have enough of it to amount to much, compared with what these-willows give. The flowers are of a rich orange color, having a center out of which spring but dreaded little thread-like filaments, upon which the pollen is supported. It is very in interesting to see the bees work on these flowers, as you can see their motions plainly, for the tree or bush does not grow so high but that some of the lower limbs are about on a level with the eye. Here is a peculiarity of the willows, for all those in this section which give pollen grow in bush form, while all of those which yield honey grow to be quite large trees, often reachingsix feet in circumference.

The pussy willow naturally grows on low swumpy ground; but with a little culture to start, it will grow readily on dry ground. It grows readily from cuttings put in the ground in early spring, as do all of the willow tribe. The above are often set down as "honey-plants" but, according to Quing and my own observation, they produce no honey. As they grow plentifully about here, I have made close observation regarding them. To be sure, the bee is continually pokrine its probes: into the blossoms-the same as it does when seeking for honey; but after killing many bees and dissecting them, I have been usually to find the least bit of honey in their sas. This, when bees are at work on any of the honey-bearing flowers, never falls to reveal any honey they are getting.

honey-producers.

Of these we have three kinds-- the golden willow, the white willow, and the veeping willow, and they are of value as honey-producers in the order named. The veeping willow blossoms about three days earlier than the others, which would make it of more value to the bees, even did it not yield honey quite so profusely, if there were enough trees to keep the bees busy; but there are very few trees of this kind about here to render it of any account. None of the three willows mentioned here give any pollen that I ever could discover, for none of the bees at work on these trees ever have any of it in their pollen-baskets. If there is any species of willow which yields both honey and pollen, I am not acquinated with it. The flowers are similar to those which grow on th3 birch and poplar, being of a long tag-like shape, as large as a state pencil and from one to two inches long. Those on the golden willow are the largest, and yield honey abundantly.

The engravings presented herewith so nearly represents the golden willow that any one should know if it is connection with its yellow bark, which distinguishes it from the other kinds of honey-yielding willow, as all of the rest, so far as I know, have a light-green bark. When these willows are in bloom, and the weather warm, the bees rush out of their hives at early dawn, and work on it all day long as energy is they do on clover or password. The blossoms often secrete honey so profusely that it can be seen glistening in the morning by holding the blossom between you and the sun,while the trees resound with that dull busy hum from morning till night, so often heard when bees are getting honey. As this is the very first honey of the season, I consider it of the greatest value to the bees, for brood is now crowded forward with great "ivim," giving us the bees which work on white clover, while the honey often helps very greatly in picking out the depicted stores of the hive. These willows blossom a little in advance of the hard map, yet hold out equally long; and from the fact that, when I kill a bee at work on these willows is always find honey in its sas, while when I do the same to a bee at work on the maple I never find any, I have been led to think that perhaps those reporting honey from munples might be mistaken, and that the honey really came from the willows. Again, maple blossoms only every other year with us, while the willows never fail; and I have noticed for years that I get fully as much honey in the years when the munples do not bloom as when they do. From the few trees along a small Creek near here, my bees frequently make a gain of from six to ten pounds of honey while the willows are in bloom, and one season they ma'e

Bordolino, N. Y., G., M., Dolittle,Willlow-Herb. Often called fire-weed, sometimes Indian pink, and rose bay. The scientific name is _Epilobian engustification_. Its growth is confined to the lumhering regions of Northern Wisconsin, Minnesota, Michigan, Canada, Washington State, and Maine, upon areas that have been burned over, hence the name "i fireweed." After forest fires it seems to spring up spontaneously, monopolizing the soil to itself. Sometimes it grows in localities never so devastated.

It is a handsome plant, usually only a single stalk growing from two to six feet high. The flowers are dark pink, arranged in clusters around the stalk. As the season advances, the first bloom goes to seed; and as the stalk extends upward, more blossoms appear, so the plant keeps in bloom from July till frost. Thus appear on each stalk buds, blossoms, and seed-pods at the same time.

Willow-herb, or fireweed, yields quantities of white honey. Some of it is so light-colored as to be actually as clear and limpid as water, having flavor simply superb\(-\) at least so we thought after eating some at one of the Michigan conventions which we attended at Grand Rapids. Mr. Hutchinson styles it the whitest and sweetest honey he ever tasted, and says the flavor, while not very pronounced, is suggestive of spice. The quality of the honey, its unfailing supply from year to year, following right after clover and basswood, and blooming from then on till frost, make it one of the most valuable honey - plants known. Unfortunately its growth is confined almost exclucomb honey per colony, unoccupied fields will soon be covered by bee-keepers, after the manner of the rush of the gold-seekers to the Klondike.

For the fine illustration on previous page we are indebted to the editor of the _Beekeepers' Review_. The picture was taken when the willow-herb was out in all its glory. In the background appear the straight black shafts of dead pine-trees that stand out alone as the only survivals of their class from the fires. While we can not but delation. Some very important information is given under Enthances,and it would be advisable to re-read that article before one takes up the matter further here. For management of bees in the spring, see Sprino Management. For a consideration of the different sizes and shapes of frames for wintering, see Hives. For the discussion of double-walled or chaff hives, see Hives.

Two methods of wintering ises.

There are two methods in vogue. One is called the indoor and the other the outdoor plane. Which one the reader shall use depends entirely on locality. Where the winters are extremely cold, with _continuous_ freezing weather prevailing through December, January, February, and March, without any warm days intervening, the indoor or cellular plan of wintering bees is the one usually followed. In other places, say fifty or one hundred miles south of the great lakes, or where there is an occasional warm day, say one or two a month when bees may fly, the outdoor method of wintering in double-walled hives, or in single-walled hives with winter cases, is the plan generally in vogue. Throughout the Southern States the plain single-walled hives are warm enough without extra protection.

Indoor wintering in the colder localities does not require double-walled hives or winter cases; but when bees are set out in the spring, some protection should be provided.

Although cellar wintering requires less expensive hives, it involves more skill--especially so if the cellar or winter repository

## 6 Wintering

does not afford all the favorable conditions. Indeed, some have wintered their bees win-Just what these are will be referred to later. While the outdoor method, on the other hand, demands double-walled hives, winter cases, or something to protect the hives on their summ r stands, it does not require that degree of skill made necessary when the bees are confined in the cellar. Therefore, the majority of beginners, especially where the climate is not severe, are by all means advised to winter outdoors.

With either the indoor or outdoor plan it is fair to state that, after a very severe winter in which the mercury plays below the zero-point for weeks at a time, and when spring is very late, with a warm spell followed by a very severe cold one, losses are likely to be heavy, even among the most experienced bee-kepers. But these losses can to a very great extent be minimized, even in bad years, provided one makes a study of his locality, regarding this general subject of wintering. It will, therefore, be the object of this article to set forth as nearly as possible some of the difficulties to be encountered, in order that the reader may intelligently undertake the problem. It is well to state, though, that the very severe winters referred to do not occur more than one in 10 or 20 years, when for some reason the whole year seems to be thrown entirely out of balance; but at all other times, if one follows carefully the directions here given his losses will not exceed ten per cent, and he may keep them down as low as two per cent.

## 7 Wintering

This is the simpler and easier plan for most beginners to follow, and the principles involved help to lay the foundation for the more difficult problem of indoor or cellar wintering. The prime requisite for both methods of wintering is a large force of young bees reared during the latter part of summer or early fall. A colony made up of old wornott bees with very few young, no matter how strong, will be almost sure to succumb before spring, or reach such a weakened condition as to become practically worthless. As a general rule, in the Northern States brood - rearing ceases right after the honey-flow.

This is perfectly normal where there is no late summer or fall pasturage like buckwheat; but during the latter part of August and the early part of September, breaking should begin again: and unles there are natural sources of nectar the bees will require feeding with thin syrup given in small quantities daily to stimulate. See Feeding. This stimulative feeding should be continued long enough to get a lot of brood in the hive so there will be a strong force of young bees to go into winter quarters. In many localities colonies will be able to gather enough nectar daily to supply themselves with young bees without any

Figure 3: Our top packing consists of a tray filled with planer-shavings.

## 4 Wintering.

special feeding. So far the scheme of raising a large force of young bees is an important requisite for either method of wintering, but especially important where bees are wintered outdoors subjected to extremes of temperature requiring a large consumption of stores in order to keep up necessary heat.

It is unwise to attempt to winter bees outdoors in single-walled hives north of 40 degrees north latitude. While the colonies may come through after a fashion, the shock of the exposure will be so great that they probably will not be good for much to gather honey.

It is, therefore, important that the hives be protected from high winds, and that the walls surrounding the hive be double and warm. Special double - walled hives are manufactured, having the space between filled with chaff, planer-shavings, leaves, or other suitable material. (See Hives for detail of construction.) The cover or roof should also be double so that the heat of the cluster will not too readily radiate away, thus causing a great consumption of stores in order to keep up the necessary animal heat; for it should be remembered that, the warmer and better protected the cluster, the less honey they require to eat. It is desirable to have the bees, so far as possible, enter a quiet state of sleep, or semi-hibernation, that practically amounts to a condition of suspended animation. But an extremely cold spell will make it necessary for this cluster to unfold and consume its stores in order to keep up the temperature. When, therefore, a colony is so poorly protected that it has to overeat in order to keep warm, their intestines become distended, and dysenter or purging is almost sure to follow. This occurring in mid-winter or early spring means the death of the colony, as there is no cure for it but warm weather.

A hive having double walls well packed, with warm cushions on top, and a good cover, makes about as good a winter home as it is possible to construct. A tray containing chaff, planing-hill shavings, or forest-leaves resting under the telescope cover keeps the top warm. A large cushion may be used instead but is not so good.

Because double - walled hives are somewhat expensive, many bee -keepers start with single-thickness hives, intending to winter, perhaps, indoors. How shall they be prepared and yet

Figure 4: The super-cover is made of three-eighths lummer, tin-bound at the ends. This should be cooled down by the bees to insure good wintering at Medina, and covered with the tray shown in Fig. 3.

Figure 5: Manner of pouring in feed from a common watering-plot into a Dolittle division-board feeder. After sufficient syrup is given, the feeder is removed, the combs are shoved over, a division-board is inserted, and hive closed for winter, give as good results, practically, as can be obtained from the more expensive double-thickness hives? Very good outside winter cases are obtainable from supply-manufacturers, large enough to telescope down over the hive. The cover of the single-walled hive, if it projects over, as most of them \(\mathrm{d}lpha\), should be removed, and what is known as a thin super-coverthat is, a thin board of the same width and length as the hive, substituted. Several folds of newspaper, old carpeting, or any other suitable material, should be laid crosswise and lengthwise over the top of the hive. Enough of them should be put on so that, when the

## Wintering.

winter case is put on, it will telescope over, crowding the folds of newspaper or other packing material neatly around the inner

iii, linseed oil. In the spring one can examine his bees by loosening the bowknot of the string, lifting off the paper cover, and finally the packing under it. After examination, the paper can be readjusted as before, with the packing material underneath.

In cold localities this packing should not be less than two inches thick. If one can not secure enough newspapers perhaps he can contrive some scheme for using old carpeting or grain-sacks, especially such as are unfit for any other purpose. He can usually obtain quite a quantity of these by going to the farmer or miller; and he may (and probably will) receive free all he can take away.

## A Winter case made of second-hand wrapping-paper as used at media.

In selecting a roofing-paper for the purpose, avoid the heavy grades, as they are expensive, and do not fold readily; and, when folded, they will break on removing the string. A greased manilla paper, about like flour-sacking, gives very good results; any paper which will stand weather, and yet fold up flat again in summer after the cold winter weather and spring are over, will answer.

Some use, in place of the string to fasten the paper down, strips of wood tacked on; but a string is just as good, much cheaper, and quicker to apply; and, what is more, it does not in the least disturb the colony to tie it on the hive.

Another method of protecting the single-walled hives is to get some old drygoods-boxes. Pile straw on top of the hives, then push the large box back over the hive. Jut

## Wintering.

As these boxes are of such varieties of shapes and sizes they are not usually very satisfactory; and, besides, they do not shed rain unless covered with roofing-paper.

Another scheme is to put the hives in a row under a shed, leaving the point of least exposure in front. Straw is then packed in between the hives and in the rear, after wh!ch it is covered with boards to shed water.

### Wintering.

We seek at a time, upward ventilation through convenient in summer, and therefore one is strongly urged to adopt the winter-case plan if he can not afford double-walled chair halves.

sealed covers or absorbing cushions over the cluster of bees.

There has been considerable discussion in the bee-journals over the question of whether there should be loose porous absorbing cushions or other material placed above the cluster of bees so that the moisture from a cluster can pass up into the packing, or whether, on the other hand, the top of the hive should be sealed tight, and packing placed on top. In the milder climates it seems to be pretty well proven that the water-case plan is indeed covered with boards to shed water, and we seek at a time, upward ventilation through porous packing would probably be safer, for bees must have air.

When the top of the hive is closed tight, the moisture from the bees collects on the under side of the cover, drips down, and passes out at the entrance. The absorbing cushions, on the other hand, in our climate

winter their bees in double-walled ten-ment hives. As the name indicates, it consists of two or more hives all under one roof. Of course, one double-walled hives large enough for four or five colonies can be made cheaper than four or five single hives, and this is one factor in their favor. Another is, that two or more colonies together conserve heat. But the objection to these big lives is that they are large, unwieldy, and not suitable for out-apacity work on account of difficulty in transportation. The point covers are heavy and awkward to lift or slide off. It is for this reason that so few bee-keepers, comparatively, use ten-ment hives.

WINTERING IN CELLIARS OR SPECIAL REPOSITORIES.

In discussing methods for wintering bees outdoors, we have already given some principles that apply to cellar wintering. In the first place, we may say that bees do not require more than 10 or 15 lbs. of stores per colony, although it is an advantage to have more, because it is difficult to feed bees in the spring. With a strong force of young bees and good stores we are well equipped to winter bees in the cellar, provided we have reasonable control of temperature and means for ventilation. Before we go into the general subject of cellar wintering it is perhaps, important to specify two or three important requisites for a good bek-cellular.

First is the _control of temperature_. The ideal temperature is about 45 degrees F. It may go up to 50 or it may go down to 40; where possible the extremes should not exceed these figures. A greater variation early in the winter does less harm than later. As the winter approaches spring it becomes increasingly important that the temperature be held as nearly as possible at 45. If it goes too high the windows should be opened at night--never in day time--to let in air, and closed just before daylight. If it becomes too cold, so the temperature goes down below 40, or near freezing, artificial heat must be used. To that end a small stove connected with a chimney may. be used to advantage. Build just enough fire to raise the temperature to 45 or a little more. As a general thing it will not be necessary to have a stove; for enough bees in the cellar will keep up the temperature by their own body heat. If a repository during the winter can not be kept cool enough by opening the windows at night, and closing them in the morning, it goes to show very plainly that the bee-keep-er had better adopt outdoor wintering, as his climate is not cold enough to keep a cool cellar. A cellar that has a tendency to be too warm most of the time is a very poor place in which to winter bees. But one where the temperature can be kept uniformly at 45, not varying more than two or three degrees through the day, will not require much ventilation. Such a cellar must be mainly under ground, and should have double doors to shut out frost, as well as double windows, if any.

It is important that the cellar be kept dark at all times; and by _dark_ we mean absolutely so, without any light penetrating anywhere.

It is important, also, that the cellar be reasonably dry, although bees have wintered fairly well in damp cellars. If it is damp, the bottom muddy, and the temperature down much below 45, the effect on bees would not be satisfactory.

Ventilation.

Authorities are not all agreed as to whether a bee-cellar should be ventilated or not. The question of air change depends almost entirely on the temperature of the cellar and its control. If the mercury can be kept uniformly at 45 throughout the entire winter with not more than two or three degrees variation it may be said that very little ventilation of the cellar will be needed; but if it has a tendency to go to 50 or more, then down, and especially if the bees begin to roar, showing uneasiness, then it is _very_ important to let in large quantities of fresh air by opening the cellar-windows at night, or through sub-earth ventilators, as used by some. But if windows are opened they must be closed before daylight in order to shut out light. Some have found it bette: to let fresh air into an outer cellar and from there into the inner cellar where the bees are. It has been argued that air directly from outdoors has a tendency to stir up the bees; yet we have not found it so. Our experience is that, when bees are uneasy by being too warm, it is also because the air is foul. The obvious remedy is to let in cool air from the outside to reduce the temperature, and at the same time supply fresh oxygen.

Celars should be large in proportion to the number of bees kept in them. A room 12 by 12, and 7 feet deep, will winter 50 colonies much better than it will 100. Ten colonies will come through in better condition than 50. The reason of this is simply a question of pure air. In some cases one may have access to a larger cellar that opens up into other compartments. If these compartments are not used, leave the doors open so that the air of the entire cellar can be available for the bees. A bee-cellar only 10 by 10,7 feet deep, should not be used to win-winter more than 100 colonies, and will give better results with 50. A larger number may, of course, be crowded in, and will winter properly if enough ventilation can be given both day and night, keeping the temperature down to about 45.

sub-earth ventilators.

The sub- ventilator should be from four to six inches in diameter, made of tile, about 100 feet long, and from four to six feet below

## Wintering

The surface of the ground. The outer end is brought to the surface of the ground, and the inner opens near the bottom of the cellar. Cold air entering the ventilator is warmed in passing under ground; and until it enters the cellar, not only supplying the latter with pure air, but at the same time raising its temperature several degrees.

special restostories or a cellar under the house.

The ordinary cellar under a dwellinghouse often affords excellent condtions for wintering bees. Where a furnace is used to warm the house it should be shut off from the bee part by means of a brick wall having a door. Should the bee cellar get too cold the temperature can be raised by opening the door leading into the furnace-room. When it gets too warm, one can open an outside window; or, perhaps, better still, swing wide the cellar-door leading into the furnace, and thence, when tempered, into the bee-room.

Hives properly shaded to shut out the direct rays of light will permit the doors left open day and night. If the temperature in the bee part can thus be maintained approximately at 45, the conditions for wintering will be ideal; for a |perfect bee-cellar is one where the temperature can be held at about 45, and fresh air admitted every hour of the day. But if opening the cellar-door reduces the temperature that is otherwise uniformly at 45, or causes it to rise, it would be better to keep the bee-cellar closed\(-\)not because the ventilation does harm, but because the change of temperature does. House ceflars are very often too small, perhaps lack room to put bees and vegetables. And right here let us say it is a kind practice to put bees and garden truck together in the same room. They should be kept separate.

Objection has been raised that the noise overhead in the house cellar disturbs bees; but no absolute proof has been deduced to show this. We have had some excellent results in wintering in a bee-cellar under a machine-shop where rumbling machinery every now and then was accompanied by the bumping of heavy castings. We have never been able to discover that this noise interfered with good wintering in that cellar.

But where a house cellar is damp, too small, too cold, too warm, or too something else, it may be well to construct a special repository for the bees. This should be located in a side-hill if possible. A little later on we give illustrations of ceflars used by some extensive bee-keepers; also other schemes of ventilation.

## Arrangement of lives in a bee-cellar.

They may be piled up one on top of another in such a way that any one can be removed without disturbing more than the one or two above it. The reason for this will be apparent later. Strong colonies should be put in first, and placed on a 2x4 scantling. On top of these may then be placed the weaker ones. This has no special advantage except the convenience of having the heavy ones at the bottom and the light ones on top. The entrances of the hives should be left about the same as they were during the late fall\(-\)\(\lx@sectionsign\) deep by 8 inches wide. Some consider it essential to remove the bottoms of the hives entirely. Others consider it good practice to have a deep space under the frames by raising the hive off the bottom in front and supporting it there by a couple of blocks. But some disastrons results in wintering seem to show _us_, at least, that too much bottom ventilation is bad unless the cellar is kept at a temperature of about _do and thoroughly ventilated_. The bee is essentially a warm-blooded animal; and if large openings be used under the bottoms of the hives the cluster will come down to shut out the cold from the interior of the hive. We have uniformly secured the best results with a reasonably small entrance, or one about the size used during the fall or late spring. The larger the colony, of course the larger the entrance that will be required. In the case of a strong populous colony we would have the entrance \(\lx@sectionsign\) deep by the full width of the hive. The colonies of medium strength should have the entrance reduced accordingly.

inspecting the bees during mid-winter; and dead bees on the cellar: botton.

Experience has proven that, when the temperature is maintained at 45 degrees, very little attention need be paid to the bees, especially in the fore part of the winter. But during the last month or two of confinement the bees require watching more carefully; for if they get to roaring many of them will be lost. It then becomes necessary to make frequent examination to determine the temperature and the quality of the air. It will also be found, perhaps, that a good many deal bees will be found on the cellar bottom. This is not necessarily cause for alarm; because in normally good wintering the old bees will generally come out of the hive and die. Their bodies, however, should not be allowed to stench the living bees but

## Wintering.

should be swept up often and removed. A disposition to roar should be met by more ventilation, and at the same time the temperature should be reduced. If all the colonies in the cellar should become uneasy during mid-winter it is evident that something must be done at once or the whole lot of bees will be lost. They ought not to become uneasy until late in the spring. If they can not be quieted by infusions of fresh air it may be best to give the uneasy colonies a flight on the first warm day by setting them outdoors and letting them stay there for 24 hours or until they can clean themselves. Dysentery or diarrhea in the bee-cellar is generally the result of too much cold air or too high a temperature, either of which will induce too large a consumption of stores; and where bees are not able to void their foees, the intestines become distended, resulting in purging. A colony so affected should be removed as soon as a warm day comes.

When to put bees in the cellar, and when to take them out.

This is a question that depends entirely on locality. Most bees go into the cellar in the Northern States anywhere from the last of November until the first of January; but usually it is advisable to have all bees in before Christmas. As to when the bees should be taken out of the cellar, authorities differ. Some set them out in March, and then put on winter cases. See Spring Management. Others believe it is better policy to keep bees in late or until the last cold weather is past, and then set them out. We would advise taking the golden mean, waiting until the time natural pollen comes, or, in our locality, soft maples bloom. But when bees are uneasy in the cellar it is advised to set them out earlier than otherwise.

The usual plan for taking bees from a cellar in the spring is to wait until fairly settled warm weather has come, and then on some warm bright day all the colonies are removed at once. The great trouble with this method is that the bees are likely to become badly mixed, owing to their eager flight with outcarefully marking the location. This results in a bad state of affairs, and should be avoided.