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since, so that the "cheese" will be very thin on one edge and very thick on the other. If this were the ease there would, of course, be too much wax left in the thick portion. To get the best results the cheeses should not be over an inch or an inch and a half thick after pressing. |
Cleaner work can be done |
by an intermittent than by continuous steady pressure; and so, whether using a lever or screw it is well to relieve the pressure about every ten minutes, allowing the cheese two or three minutes in which to become thoroughly saturated again with boiling water. Pressure should be applied slowly at first in order to avoid bursting the burlap. |
With the outdoor-kettle plan the wax will be disculored on account of the long-continued heat unless it is dipped off the surface of the water almost as fast as it rises. About three hours of intermittent pressure for one batch of combs in a kettle will render out the wax. |
Steam-presses. |
Methods of rendering wax, embodying the principle of applying great pressure to combs surrounded by steam, are quite old, both in this country and in Germany, where they originated. In many ways steam-presses have advantages over other methods; but the quality of wax is usually not so good, because of the high temperature to which the comparatively thin surfaces of melted wax are subjected; although the wax, as it leaves the refuse, falls down out of the way so that the work can be much more conveniently carried on, since there is no great depth of water in the way. |
A steam-press of popular design is shown in Fig. 7. Steam is generated under the false bottom G, of the compartment II, and, passing upward through an opening in the center of the false bottom, surrounds the combs beneath the plumger in the perforated metal |
Figure 5: -Hesshiser hot-water wax-press. |
Figure 6: - Use of the lever in pressing wax. |
Wax. |
handling and with little extra trouble ; or the "cheeses " of cappings, pressed nearly dry of honey, may be stored away to be rendered into wax at a more convenient time later. |
These presses are also very useful in pressing honey from broken combs, unfinished sections, etc., and rendering the pressed comb into wax. |
Mr. Edward G. Brown, of Sergeant Bluff, Iowa, has described an excellent plan for rendering wax on a large scale, making use of an open press heated with a steam-jet. Where one has access to steam this is a very practical method. His plan in full is as follows : |
The wax-rendering apparatus which I use is somewhat beyond the reach of many bee-keeppers; but it gets the wax, and I think a little newer all of it, than must of the various outfits in use. I will give the figures of the wax rendered, and later describe the apparatus. |
The best results which we have secured were from a lot of combs, many of which were 25 years old. There were 409 of these combs in the lot, and we obtained 166 lhs of wax, or a little over 4 lhs, of wax to every 10 combs. There were two working at the job, and the total time for rendering, including flying up the boiler, etc., was a little less than five hours. We have made a few full-day runs on combs varying In age from one to twenty-five years, and the results average about 250 to 35 lhs of wax to the thousand combs. In a day we can usually render from 80 to 100 combs, the number depending, of course, upon the condition of the combs, etc. When I buy old combs I usually figure on about 25 lhs, of wax to the live of ten combs, Langstroh size. |
In the last two years we have rendered something like 800 or 900 combs on account of fuel brood, and was for the first time. |
I believe that this is the only way to eradicate the disease completely from a yard when it once gets a start. There is just one other way; and that is, to build a bonfire and burn up all the supplies, etc., in connection with the yard. Incidentally the latter plan is somewhat expensive, for it leaves the apriatst at the foot of the ladder, ready for a new start. |
The figures given above may seem a little large to some; but the apparatus is of fair size, and requires two to work it at full speed, and a part of the time there were three of us. Our work-shop is an old cheese-factory which I also use for storage room; and the heat for the wax-rendering is furnished by a half-order from which I also get the power for running my buzz-saws, as I make all my own llores and heavier supplies. |
The engraving shows the various parts of the tank, which is 2 ft, wide, 7 ft, long, 16 in deep. It is divided into two parts, as shown, both parts being lined with galvanized iron, and fitted with a cover of the same material. Each part is about half filled with water; and steam for boiling the water is introduced by means of a 3-inch pipe, on the under sides of which holes are drilled so that, when the steam is turned on, the contents of the tank are kept in motion. Each division of the tank has a separate pipe controlled by a valve so that heat can be applied when wanted, and as hard as desired. The press as shown in the second engraving is made from an old cheese-press. The construction is sufficiently c car, hence no detailed description is necessary. A pipe is arranged under the press in such a way that steam |
Figure 7: \(-\)German steam wax-press. |
When rendering, the tanks are filled about half full of water brought to a boil by the steam. The larger compartment is then filled with combs still in the frames. About 50 frames of combs can be put in at once. The cover is then shut down and the steam turned on. From three to five minutes is required to do the work, and when the contents are |
During the year 1005 we rendered about 150 bbs of |
www, and in 1908 nearly 1100 lbs, so we think we have |
had quite an opportunity for testing the apparatus thoroughly. |
## 5 Unheated presses |
Mr. C. A. Hatch, of Wisconsin, was probably the first one to make |
extensive use of this method of wax-rendering. He |
had used for a short time |
a press designed by W. W. |
Cary, of Massachusetts, in |
which the combs were |
pressed while submerged |
in hot water; but he |
believed that he could |
improve on this plan by |
applying pressure in a different receptacle without |
the use of so much hot |
water. While there may be |
hundreds who used a similar plan before this, Mr. |
Hatch is probably the first |
one in this country to bring it to the notice of the public. Later Mr. F. A. Gennill, of Ontario, Canada, |
also used such a press, which finally came to be |
known as the Hatch-Gennill |
wax - press. This is |
shown in Fig. 9. |
Wax-presses very similar |
to the Hatch-Gennill have |
been constructed and used |
by various bee-keepers all |
over the country. Since |
Figure 9: The original Hatch-Gennill wax-press. |
the essential features of this method have been in use so long it is very evident that the unheated press has merit. The authors of this work have rendered large quantities of wax, and have made many experiments which all go to prove that the unheated press is a most desirable one for the average bee-keeper. |
Mr. F. A. Salisbury is an enthusiastic advocate of the unheated press. The form which he likes best is shown in Fig. 10. It will be seen that the loss of heat is prevented by having no circulation of air; hence, since wood is an excellent non-conductor, the combs remain hot for a considerable length of time. The construction is sufficiently clear from the illustration. |
Another form is that shown in Fig. 11, representing a press constructed by Mr. John Rockwood, of Utah. |
The particular form of unheated press preferred by the authors is shown in Fig. 13. It will be noticed that a round can, constructed of tin, is used instead of the square wooden box and tray shown in Fig. 9. The principal reason for this change is that it is easier to keep the cheese from bursting out sidewise when a round box or can is used, for the square box tends to bulge out in the middle, thus allowing the burlap to burst. If a round can is used, the pressure sidewise is always in a direction directly away from the center, and the horizontal pressure is thus equalized. With the round can the cheeses do not chill so quickly as they do in the square box, for the reason that they are more compact, and there is always less chance for cold air to circulate around under the cheese. Mr. Hatch now uses two screws instead of one, for he believes that he can get more pressure with the two; but it is doubtful if two screws are necessary, since one screw will exert more pressure than is needed, and is, besides, more easily handled. |
It will be noted in Fig. 13 that the screw extends down into a hole in the center of the east-iron follower. If the screw simply rests on the top, the follower shows a great tendency to go down sidewise, especially if one is not exceedingly careful to place the melted comb evenly in the can. It is easy to see that, when the follower does not go down straight, one side of the cheese will be much thicker than the other, and contain quite a good deal of wax after the work is done. With this arrangement the follower must go down straight unless the screw bends; but there has never been any trouble from that source. The circular follower above the cheese must be deleted, as shown on the under side, to aid the wax and water in running off. |
With this press, since there is no heat applied to the combs during the pressing, it is well to do the work in warm weather, or in some room that can be kept warm by the heat of the stove used; for when the air is hinges should be screwed to the front edge, as shown, in order to allow it to be tipped up on edge when necessary, to let the wax and water drain out. It is best to have the back of the press a little higher than the front at all times. |
To begin the work, your about two pulfuls of water into the boiler and set it on the stove. As this comes to a boil, keep adding old comb, stirring frequently. As much as half a barrel may be melted in one boiler at a time, or even more if necessary; but it is best not to have too much comb in proportion to the water used, since this plan is essentially a washing-out process; and good results, therefore, can not be secured when there is not enough water. Keep stirring the contents of the boiler until it has all been heated through thoroughly and has boiled until the wax has been reduced and the melted comb is of the consistency of mush; then push the boiler to the edge of the stove, where it will keep hot, but where the wax will not burn or become discolored from too high a temperature. Next put the wooden plug in the spout or tube at the bottom of the wax-press can; and after putting folded-up burlap and follower in the can, fill it with hot water. This is done to heat thoroughly the press and all the parts that would come in contact with the cheese, in order to prevent unnecessary chilling. Then remove |
Figure 14: Showing can slid forward on the platform and the burlap spread out ready for the melted comb. |
Figure 13: Style of unheated press preferred by the authors. |
the wooden plug and draw off the water and your it into the second boiler on the stove, which, as before explained, should be used for melting up the second lot of comb in case it is necessary to do rapid work. Now slide the can forward on the platform, as shown in Fig. 14, and spread the piece of burlap over it. |
Dip about one gallon of melted comb _and water_ into the press and fold the burlap neatly over it. The wooden plug must be kept in the outlet tube in order that the water and wax may not run out. In dipping in the melted comb do not use a strainer or dipper with a wire-cloth bottom, for the idea is to transfer _plenty of water with the comb_ in order to keep the wax from chilling, and also to aid in washing it out. Use an ordinary dipper, then, of pretty good size. The square piece of burlap should be of such size that there will be plenty of room on top to keep the slumgum from washing out; but, on the other hand, there should not be so much as to make a great roll of useless cloth that will only be in the way. A foot on each site to fold over is enough if this burlap be folded over neatly, as one would fold paper in tying up a package; there is no need of nails for keeping the edges together. Place the clearest slowly, until the limit has again been reached. Then release the pressure as before, and after this turn the screw down again for the last time. This whole process |
Figure 13: All ready for pressure. |
Figure 12: The press tipped up on edge to allow the last of the wax and water to run out. |
Figure 14: The wooden plug and draw off the water and your it into the press and your it into the second boiler on the stove, which, as before explained, should be used for melting up the second lot of comb in case it is necessary to do rapid work. Now slide the can forward on the platform, as shown in Fig. 14, and spread the piece of burlap over it. Dip about one gallon of melted comb _and water_ into the press and fold the burlap neatly over it. The wooden plug must be kept in the outlet tube in order that the water and wax may not run out. In dipping in the melted comb do not use a strainer or dipper with a wire-cloth bottom, for the idea is to transfer _plenty of water with the comb_ in order to keep the wax from chilling, and also to aid in washing it out. Use an ordinary dipper, then, of pretty good size. The square piece of burlap should be of such size that there will be plenty of room on top to keep the slumgum from washing out; but, on the other hand, there should not be so much as to make a great roll of useless cloth that will only be in the way. A foot on each site to fold over is enough if this burlap be folded over neatly, as one would fold paper in tying up a package; there is no need of nails for keeping the edges together. Place the clearest slowly, until the limit has again been reached. Then release the pressure as before, and after this turn the screw down again for the last time. This whole process |
of pressing will take about ten minutes in all. While the pressure is still on the comb, remove the wooden covers from the can, and tip up the press as shown in Fig. 16, so that the water and wax may run out into a small tub or large patii on the floor under it. Leave the press turned over for a few moments until all of the water and wax drain out, and then tip it back to its regular position. An old sack or piece of carpet should be thrown across the top of the small tub to keep the wax from chilling until it is completed into the large can, as explained later. |
The screw should now be raised, the follower lifted out, and the burlap shaken into a box near by. |
If the piece of burlap is rubber, the pressure will take about ten minutes in all. |
While the pressure is still on the comb, remove the wooden covers from the can, and tip up the press as shown in Fig. 16, so that the water and wax may run out into a small tub or large patii on the floor under it. Leave the press turned over for a few moments until all of the water and wax drain out, and then tip it back to its regular position. An old sack or piece of carpet should be thrown across the top of the small tub to keep the wax from chilling until it is completed into the large can, as explained later. |
The screw should now be raised, the follower lifted out, and the burlap shaken into a box near by. |
If the piece of burlap is rubber, the pressure will take about ten minutes in all. |
For convenience this can should have a faucet or gate at the bottom so that hot water may be drawn off when it gets too full, th s hot water to be used over again in the next boiler of ca mb. It does not matter even if it is quite black and thick, for experience has shown that this dark-colored water does not discolor the wax. A piece of carpet should be kept over the top of this large can in order that the wax may not become chilled. At the end of the day, or whenever the work is over, the hot water may be drawn out until just before the wax begins to come. The wax may then be run out into suitable models, which, if made of metal, should be well moistened on the inside with soapsuds to prevent the wax from sticking. |
The refuse from the press, which has be en shaken out in a large box, _is not yet free from wax_, and this point should be plainly understood. We have found that one treatment as above described will remove only 90 per cent of the total amount of wax. The refuse will look perfectly clean and dry, and many will be deceived and throw it away, thinking it not worth a second melting; but from quite a good many samples that we have tested from different lots of refuse that have been sent in from other producers, we are very sure that there is a waste of from eight to ten per cent of the wax unless this refuse is run through the press again. For this reason, when a sufficient amount is accumulated it is well to put it back in one of the boilers and boil it again in water. The second treatment will take a little over half the time the first did, since rather more can be pressed at a time; but the average bee-keeper can well afford to do it. Wax from very old combs can be extracted in this unheated press, even though it is gone over twice, at the rate of about seven or eight pounds an hour, and the final waste need not be over three per cent. |
An important fact that must not be overlooked is that the quality of wax from this press is the very best. The cakes need only a little seraping on the bottom, to be ready for market. The color is good, so that there is no need of refining the wax afterward. If the combs were melted up without water, however, the wax would very probably be discolored from too high a temperature. |
The above plan sounds somewhat complicated, but it has been found to be no more so than most methods of rendering wax. Of course it is not possible to do work of this kind without making some muss, and it is |
Figure 17:Hateh's outdoor furnace for melting combs. |
always a good deal better if the work can be done in a basement or in a shed where it does not make so much difference if a little way is spilled. If the work is done in a kitchen, the floor should be well covered with newspapers, which can afterward be taken up and burned. When boiling comb in a boiler, great care should be exercised to prevent the wax from boiling over on the stove and possibly causing a fire. |
When diseased combs are rendered, every precaution should be taken to prevent bees from robbing. If the building can not be made be-tight, the work should be done at night, and every tool and utensil used should be thoroughly sealed again before daylight. The refuse from diseased combs should be burned or bur.ed immediately, and the water that was used should be poured where the bees can not possibly get access to it. |
How to render wax with home-made artificial-axes. |
The unheated press is not difficult to construct, as there are no materials used that could not be obtained easily. If one should have on hand an old hard-press he can make few changes and get along quite well by using it for rendering wax. See Fig. 18. Usually, however, the threads of the screw used in a hard-press are rather too course to give the pressure needed without making it necessary to exert a very great amount of strength in turning the screw. There are many erroneous ideas concerning the pressure which can be exerted by a screw. For instance, it is not the diameter of the screw that determines the pressure, but the pitch of the thread. Screws which can be lowered as much as half an inch in a single complete revolution will hardly be powerful enough for pressing out wax to the best advantage. It is better to have finer threads, so that less exertion is needed to do the work properly. If one wishes to construct a good wavness with as little trouble as possible he had better follow quite closely the design shown in Fig. 19. There are many things that must be taken into consideration in designing a wax-press; and we know that the one shown will be satisfactory, although, of course, it will not be quite so convenient as one made when the proper castings, etc, can be obtained. |
A bench-vise screw will answer the purpose if the thread is not too coarse. Two half-inch rods threaded on each end 1.oldIn a home-made press, since it is hardly practicable to construct any thing without too much expense that will keep the follower always at right angles with the screw, it is necessary to place the old comb evenly in the box so that the follower shall go down in fact, this home-made press is very similar to that one, except that it is simpler, stronger, and easier to construct. |
It must be borne in mind that, since there is no way to fill the pressing-box with boiling hot water and allow it to remain full until thoroughly heated, when starting work, boiling water must be poured over the box and contents until they are thoroughly heated; and then if the work is continuous the parts will not become cold enough to chill the wax. |
A plain square box would burst if the corners were not strengthened, hence it is necessary to bind them by nailing on pieces of very heavy tin or galvanized iron as shown. Thus reinforced the box is amply strong. |
screw pressure vs. level. |
\(\Lambda\) long heavy lever may be preferred in place of a screw, and in some places it may be easier to construct and operate. The same plan can be followed as that shown in Fig. 6. It is very necessary to guide the lever in some way in order to keep the pressure always vertically above the center of the pressing-box. It is much more difficult to handle a lever than a screw, for there is so much weight to manage. The argument is often advanced that the lever is preferable for the reason that the operator can leave it alone, knowing that the pressure will be applied constantly if heavy weights are hung on the end. While this point is valuable in connection with pressing combs submerged in boiling water, as shown in Fig. 6, it is of little advantage in the un |
Figure 19:\(ullet\)=\(\Lambda\) good design for a home-made unheated press. |
Figure 20:\(ullet\)=\(\Lambda\) good design for a home-made unheated press. |
We are often asked how much was can be rendered from comb holding a given amount of honey; but it is quite difficult to answer such questions, as it makes considerable difference whether full sheets of foundation were used, and also whether such foundation was thick or thin. In general, however, we might say that it requires about 4 lbs. of wax in comb to hold 100 lbs. of honey; or, in other words, that a bound of new comb will hold about 25 lbs. of honey. |
A sixteen-ounce section of honey consists approximately of 14) ounces of honey--a little over one-half ounce of wax and about one ounce of wood. Fig. 21 shows the results after separating the honey, wax, and wood, in a sixteen-ounce section. Of course, these results, as before mentioned, are not always the same, and the different amounts vary considerably. |
On one occasion we melted over 600 lbs. of candied comb honey, Keeping careful account of the weights, we found that the percentages of honey, wax, and wood were approximately ss8, 5, and 7, respectively. |
How to refine wax with sulphuric acid. |
Wax eakes, as they are bought up, are usually of all grades and colors. The difference in color is due largely to the amount of impurities the wax contains. In all the years that we have been in the business we have found no practical or satisfactory way of bringing the wax to a yellow color--that is, to its original state of purity, except by treating it with acid. |
The method, in brief, is as follows : Fill a wooden tank or barrel a quarter full of water, and add cakes of wax until nearly full. The water is then boiled until all the wax is melted, when a quantity of commercial sulphuric acid is poured in, and the boiling continued until all is thoroughly mixed. The heat is then removed and the impurities allowed to settle. |
For a detailed account, it may be well to describe our own system of refining wax. |
Our tank is a little over 34 feet in diameter, and about 5 feet high. Water is run into it to a depth of 12 inches, and then 1500 lbs, of wax is thrown in, making it about full. The mass is then heated by means of a jet of steam from a pipe projecting down into the water from the top. When all the wax is melted, the acid is poured in. Dark wax to make brood foundation requires three joints of acid; but if light enough for surplus foundation, not more than 14 pints is used. If the wax is already of good quality, so small in amount as one pint of acid will answer. On the average, therefore, we use one qint of acid in 80 gallons of water for 1500 lbs, of wax. Soon after this is poured in, the color of the boiling wax will be seen to grow lighter, and, after a minute or so, the boiling is stopped. |
The steam-pipe is now drawn out, the tank covered with a cloth or carpet, and allowed to stand as long as the wax will remain liquid, or about 24 hours. At the expiration of this time the water and acid will have settled to the bottom by reason of their greater specific gravity; and the acid, in turn, having a greater specific gravity than that of water, will settle below the water; and the consequence is, that the wax itself, after being purified, is allowed to become thoroughly cleansed of any residue of acid, and the dirt accumulation, all have settled beneath the wax into the water. The melted wax is now drawn off from the top, and poured into any sort of receptacles with flaring sides. When the wax is nearly all removed or shows evidence of coming near the dirt, the rest is allowed to stand. As soon as it cakes in the tank it is lifted out, and the dirt clinging to the bottom scraped off. |
We do not recommend the use of acid for refining wax on a small scale, for, without proper receptacles and facilities for heating, the wax is more often injured than benefited. |
bleaching beeswax. |
There are methods by which beeswax can be bleached by the use of chemicals; but after some experimenting we have not been successful with any of them, and finally discovered that, for the economic uses of the bee-keeper, foundation made of bleached wax was no better than if as good as that having the natural yellow color, refined by the use of sulphuric acid as explained elsewhere. Yellow wax is more ductile, and therefore more easily worked by the bees; and even when used for section honey-boxes, the combs from yellow wax are about as white as those from the bleached; so that when exppel over, no one can tell the difference. But very often dealers have a call for bleached beeswax; and the only practical way of getting it is to convert the product into this sheets or small particles, and then subject them to the sun's rays for a suitable length of time. When sufficiently bleached it may be melted up and asked. |
The illustration given on next page shows how it is done at a large wax-working establishment where wax-bleaching is made a specialty. We refer to the firm that was formerly Eekerman & Will, of Syraeuse, N. Y., but now bearing the name of Will & Baumer. The wax is reduced to thin sheets or shreds, or, what is often done, is allowed to drop on a revolving cylinder, forming small chunks or drops, as it were, which immediately cool. These particles of wax, or thin sheets, are spread on canvas trays, and then exposed to the rays of the sun until they are bleached. When the wax is first put out it packs more or less small has to be frequently shovered with water, or raked over, to keep it loose so that the air and sun can get at it. If the process has been properly carried on, the inshed product, when caked,will be of a pearly whiteness. |