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## 10.3 The Alexander plan of uniting weak colonies. |
During the year 1905, and again in 1906 and 197, a good deal of interest was manifested through _Gleunings in _Isc Culture_ in the Alexander plan of uniting a weak colony to a strong one in the spring. Many of those who followed the method were very successful. A few, however, failed. To these latter we will refer later. The Alexander plan of uniting is given by Mr. Alexander himself as follows after he had carefully revised it: |
\[egin{array}{l}\mbox{\it alexander method of bridging ep wfax colonies in early spring.}\end{array}\] |
About six or seven days after taking your bees from their winter quarters, pick out and unurk all weak colonies, also your strongest ones, marking an equal number of each; then all weak colonies that have a patch of brood in one comb about as large as your hand. set all such on top of a strong colony with with a queen-escaliber between, closing up nil entrance to the weak colony except through the excludor. Then there are those that are very weak that have only a queen, and perhaps not more than a handful of bees with no brood. Fix these last named in _this way_ : Go to the strong colony you wish to get them over, and get a frame of brood with its adhering bees, being sure not to take their queen; then put the queen of the weak colony on this comb to nith the strange keeps, and put it into the weak thio; leave them in this way about half a day; then set them on top of the strong colony where you got the breed with a queen-escaliber between. Do all this with very little smoke, and avoid exiting the strong colony in any way. If a cool day, and the bees are not flying, I usually leave the strong colony uncovered, except with the excluder, for a few hours before settling on the weak colony. The whole thing should be done as quietly as possible, so that nolt or colony hardly realizes that it has been touched. When the weak colony has been given some treods, and put on top in this careful and still manners hardly one queen in a hundred will be lost, and in about 30 days each hive will be crowded with be es and maturing brood. Then when you wish to se a rate then, set the strongest colony on a new star and give it also some of the bees from the hive that is left on the old stand, as a few of the working force will return to the old location, especially if they are black bees or degenerate Italians. |
In every case that has come to my notice where this method has been reported a failure it has been from one of two euses--either lack of brood in a weak colony to hold the queen and her few bees in the upper hive, or smoking the strong colony so that, as soon as the weak one was set on top, the bees from below would rush up and sting every one above. Therefore avoid using smoke or doing any thing to excite the strong colony. |
If done in a careful manner the bees in the lower hive never seem to realize that any strangers have been put above them, and they all work'in harmony to rather. |
At the outset we spoke of those who met with failure in following the method. As Mr. Alexander says, the difficulty doubtless arose from the fact that they failed to put brood along with the weak nucleus to hold the queen and her few bees, or else the uniting was so clumsily done that it stirred up both lots of bees, with the result that they came together before they had the same ascent; and the queen, having a strange odor, was killed. (See Introduction.) Mr. Alexander's injunction is to put the bees together (see arefully that the clusters do not really unite for some two days, at which time there is a peaceful union, and the two queens go on laying so as to make up one ronsing colony,which can be divided, making twostrong colonies where before there would have been only one, since the nucleus left to itself would have died. |
Where one desires to proceed with extreme caution he is advised to put a wire-cloth screen between the two lots of bees at the time of uniting, and keeping it there for two or three days, after which its place is taken by a perforated zinc honey-board. In this connection we would remark that the wire-cloth screen should be mounted in a wooden frame about \(\sharp\) inch thick, and of the same outside dimensions as the hive. |
While this plan of uniting contemplates performing the act in early spring, something can be done at it in the fall. Mr. Josiah Johnston, in a communication sent to _Gleanings in Ike Culture_ in 1907, tells how he unites on the Alexander plan in the fall. |
Some have had trouble in following the Alexander plan of building up weak colonies. I think the trouble in many eases is due to rousing up the bees and getting them uneasy before the weak colony is put over the strong one. Then the two colonies have war for a while. I always use wire cloth between the two hives and never have any trouble from the lower colony going up and killing the bees in the upper hive. For some time I have wintered my weak colonies this way, on the summer stands. Last winter I had several weak colonies, and I put them all over strong colonies, making an entrance in the back with my knife through the hand-hole of the upper hive. This should be just large enough to allow two or three bees to pass out at a time. This is done on some cloudy day after very cold weather comes and the bees have quit flying. |
Last year I had a weak swarm of bees. There was just one frame of bees and a young queen. I put this frame of bees in with nine frames of honey, and put the frames in a hive and set it on top of one of the strongest colonies I had, and in February they got pretty strong, and I left them on till April ; and when I set them off I had two strong colonies. |
Milan, III. Josiah Johnston. |
**V.** |
**VETHS.** The necessity of using face detectors will depend largely upon the race of bees to be handled. To deal with hybrids, Cyprians, or Holy-Lands, we would recommend one to wear a veil. With pure Italians it is not so necessary; still we always prefer to have one handy. Its use in any case gives the apiarist a sense of security to enable him to work to much better advantage than he would if continually in fear of every cross bee that chanced to buzz near his eyes. |
The two great objections to the use of veils are that they necessarily obstruct the vision more or less, and obstruct the free circulation of air in hot weather, and thus tend to make the wearer sweaty and uncomfortable. |
The very _nicest_ veil is one made entirely -- holding is used one can raise or lower and of silk -- tulle, although somewhat expensive. The material is so fine that a whole veil of it can be folded to go in a small vest-pocket. We carry one of these constantly during the working season of the bees, and it is always ready for an emergency. It neither obstructs the vision nor prevents the free circulation of air on hot days. A cheaper one, though not so light nor cool, is made of great-adine with a facing of silk tulle net sewed in. The grenodine is strong, and the brussels-net facing obstructs the vision but little if any. The top of the veil is gathered with a rubber cord, so that it may be made to fit closely around the crown of the hut. |
Our boys wear a broad-brimmel cloth hat, costing about 20 cents each. These hats are very light, will fit any head, and can be folded and put in a cout-pocket. The under side of the brini is green; the upper side of the crown is a drab color. This broad brini is supported and held out by means of a steel hoop; and when the veil is placed over the hat and properly drawn down it can not touch the face or neck, and hence leaves no possible chance for stings. During hot days when bees require the most attention in the apiary, a cout or vest is simply intolerable. In the absence of either one of these garments the corners of the veil may be drawn under the suspenders. The four plates herewith show successively this manner of drawing the veil under the suspenders, and its position when in use. The last view of the series shows how easily it can be drawn out from under the suspenders and raised above the hat while not in use. Many apiarists work a good part of the time with the veil raised. When the suspender method ofveil must be drawn down as shown in the view at the extreme left, or No. 1. |
The one to the extreme right shows a good method of fastening by means of a long string, inserted in the bottom edge of the veil. The ends are crossed in front of the waist, brought to the rear, pulled clear around to the front again, and tied. This holds the veil very securely as shown, and some seem to prefer it. An objection is that one can not very well push his hand up under the veil to get at his face to wipe off the perspiration as he can where rubber cord is used as shown, or where the edges of the veil are tucked under the suspenders. It is very important to have a protection that will secure freedom and ready access to the face. While a stray bee may get under without much danger of being stung, it is annoying to have it crawl around promiscuously. With the veil properly adjusted, one can easily reach his hand up under, pick up the bee, and at the same time be very little disconnected in this work. |
The next illustration shows a wire-cloth-screen headgeur that is used by some of on again. The muslin skirt fits loosely yet fairly snugly around the shoulders and neck. |
There are many practical bee men who prefer wire-cloth head-protectors to any thing else. When first used they seem a little awkward; but the extreme comfort that one enjoys more than compensates for its apparent outlandishness. The one shown in the ent uses a strip of wire cloth approximately a foot wide and a yard long. A yard of muslin completes the material required. Where one uses a coat, the skirt of this head protection can readily be tucked inside; but even without coat or vest, the loose folds of the cloth fit with a fair degree of snugness around the shoulders and neck. |
One of our boys has used with much satisfaction a sort of chopping-bowl or basket inverted. It is a hat that is worn in India and other hot countries, and is slowly working its way into this country, particularly in the South. It is made of palm-leaf, and it is |
supported above the head in the manner shown above. The cut will render further description unnecessary. |
As light breezes can circulate above and around the head, it is perhaps the coolest sun-shade of any herein illustrated and described. If you can not secure one of these, and would like to get the ventilating feature, take an ordinary palm-leaf hat several sizes too large. On the inside of the hat-bab sew four or five \(
atural\)-inch corks that have been cut in halves lengthwise. These, if spaced at regular distances, will keep the hat from the head, and permit ventilation. |
We have before remarked that one object to bee-veils is the obstruction to the eyesight. To overcome this, Mr. John C. Capehart, of St. Albuns,West Va., glue:l a piece of glass in front of the veil. The difficulty with this was, that the glass would hardly ever be in range with the eyes, on account of its weight, and then it would be covered with steam from the breath; and,worse than all, it would get broken. The brussels net is open to none of these objections, and is almost as transparent as glass itself. |
Mr. Walter S. Pouder made an improvement on this by substituting celluloid film such as is used for photographic film negatives. While this overcomes the objection of weight it does not prevent the moisture of the breath from accumulating on it. So far we have found nothing better nor as good as silk tulle. |
Mr. Martin and Mr. Cogrshall both make use of sleeve-protectors. They will be found exceedingly useful for protecting the hands and wrists, and also prevent their getting daubed. |
THE globe bee-veil. |
This is a veil that has had a very large sale, and is preferred by a great number, |
because it is large enough to extend down over an ordinary hat or cap: and it is so constructed that it can not possibly get against one's face at any point. Sometimes an ordinary veil will touch one's nose or the back of his neck. At these points a bee can, if it will, insert its sting through the meshes of the veil. The globe veil is made so as to fold up compactly and can be carried in the pocket. With cross bees to handle, this is by all odds the best veil in the lot. |
Mrs. R. H. Holmes, of Shoreham, Vt., uses a bee-hat like that shown in the above cut. It is simply a straw hat with a broad rim, the veil being made of mosquito-bar, and the facing of brussels net. A strip of cloth lines the lower edge of the veil, and is made just large enough to fit snugly around the shoulders. \(\lambda\) couple of cloth straps hitched to buttons pass under the arm-pits, and button on behind. While this arrangement is good, the rubber cord and safety-pin is better. |
How to get along without a veil. |
It is a very great convenience to be _able_ to dispense with a veil altogether, when circumstances permit it. The only obstacle is natural dread that a bee may possibly sting the face if it has a chance. |
This fear will wear off as you become more and more accustomed to handling bees. When without a veil, if a bee comes up, and, by its hun, reveals anger, to not dodge nor strike at it, but control the muscles of the face as perfectly as though you were not at all aware of its presence. A little wine of the check or of the eye encourages its lighting qualities. A careless, indifferent behavior, on the other hand, shows you are not afraid, and it therefore very sensibly concludes that there is no use in wasting a sting for nothing. Sometimes we put our hand up to the face when one of these rascals persists in its annoyance. Should it actually begin to sting, smash it. In your community you will probably acquire the reputation of a bee-keeper, and, as such, when suddenly called upon to hive a swarm of bees without preparation for a neighbor, it would be a little unbecoming, and perhaps a little humiliating, for you to show signs of fear. You should learn to "astonish the natives"?"arehanded and bare-faced, and you need not incur risk, either, if you manage rightly. |
Wee drees or clothing for bee-kepepies. |
Under the head of Gloves, following in its alphabetical order, will be found some long-sleeved gloves or gamnitles that reach away up above the elbows. Many bee-keepers use these to keep bees from getting up the sleeve, and at the same time protect the wrists, especially the inside fleshy portions of them where they are very sensitive. Others carry this same principle further, combining the gloves and headgear all in one. |
The accompanying illustrations show the outfit worm by Mr. David Coggshall, of West Groton, N. Y. The lower part of the blouse is taken up by a string hemmed in at the lower edge, which is drawn and tied. When not desired to use the well it is pulled down from the hat as shown in the second illustration. |
As for pants, one can get a pair of overalls at any clothing-store, and it is suggested skirts or walking costume. Such a dress, with high-topped shoes, makes a very neat and becoming outfit. Some women go so far as to dress in what are called "divided skirts," the lower parts of which are fastened below the knee; and a few go even a little further and wear regular man's attire, and one can scarcely blame them for so doing. |
**VENTILATION.**: Bees get it, ordinarily, through the entrance, and through the cracks and creviees which are generally found in even the best-made hives, providing the hive is properly constructed in other respectsconsidered under the head of Winetzing. We do not believe in holes made in different portions of the hive, and covered with wire cloth, because the bees persistently wax it over, when they get strong enough. If we omit the wire cloth, they will, in time, build the holes up, by much labor, with walls of propolis, until they have effectually stopped the inconvenient drafts that the improved (?) ventilators would admit at all times through the hive. During extremely hot weather, a powerful colony may need more air than is afforded by an ordinary entrance, especially if the hive stands exposed to the sun. In such a case we much prefer giving the bees shade to cutting ventilation-holes, which the bees soon begin to use as entrances; for when the hot weather is over, and it is desirable to close these entrances, you confuse and annoy the bees by so doing. On this account we would give all the ventilation that a strong colony might need to keep them inside at work in the boxes, by simply enlarging the entrance. This can be done very readily with the Dovetailed or Danzenbaker hives, and in summer we make it a practice to give abundant entrance. See Entrances. The ghalf live with its entrance 12 in, by 1 in, has always all the ventilation it seems to require, because the sum can never strike directly on the walls of the apartment containing the bees and honey. During winter this 12x1 inch should be cut down to about 2x 5 inch, if the colony is a fairly average one. If weak, contract to one inch wide. In very cold zero weather put snow over the entrance, or, if none, then loose sawdust, as, in severe weather, bees do not need much air; but when it warms up, clear out the dead bees with a hooked wire. Too much ventilation of bees in winter is too much of a good thing. The ghalf cushions placed over the bees in winter are kept over the surplus frames for the greater part of the time in summer, to confine the heat during |
## Ventilation |
cool nights; and from their porous nature they allow of the escape of more or less air that comes in slowly through the entrance, the honey-boxes having no other covering than the wide frames that hold the sections and these same chaff cushions. We have obtained more surplus honey with this arrangement than with any other, and are firmly persuaded that a great loss of honey often results from allowing so much draft of air through the hive that the bees can not work the wax, except during extremely warm weather. To test this matter we covered a large colony in the house-apjury with woolen blankets while they were gathering clover honey, to induce them to remain in the boxes, even after the weather had turned quite cool. So long as the blankets remained on, the bees did remain in the boxes working wax; but as soon as the blankets were removed, each time the experiment was tried they retreated to the body of the hive. The same thing was tried with thin-walled hives out of doors. |
smothering bees by closing the entrance. |
Although bees manage to get along with even a very small entrance, we should be very careful about closing the entrance entirely, in warm weather, even for only a few minutes. Many are the reports we get almost every season, of bees destroyed by simply closing their entrance while undertaking to stop swarming for a few minutes, until some other colony can be attended to. See Swarning, Enthances, and Robning, especially the last head, _How to Stop Robbing._ |
When bees have the swarming fever, as a general thing they are gorged with honey and in a feverish state. They are like a man who has been taking violent exercise after a hearty meal, and require more than an ordinary amount of air. Their breathing-tubes are in different parts of the body, under the wings and on each side of the abdomen (see Anatomy of the Bee); hence as soon as the entrance is closed, and they crowd about it the heat of so many becomes suffocatin\({}_{\mathcal{L}}\) in a very few minutes; the honey is involutarily discharged, wetting themselves and their companions, thus most effectually closing their breathing-tubes in a way that causes death to ensue very quickly. We have known of heavy swarms being killed in the short space of fifteen minutes, when the hive was thus closed on them. The heat generated by the snottering mass often becomes great enough to melt down the combs, enveloping bees, brood, honey, and all, in a mass almost scadding hot. Bees are sometimes smothered in this way, in extremely hot weather, even when they have very large openings covered with wire cloth. In fact, we have once or twice had bees, shipped by railroad, in July and August, get hot and smoother, when the whole top of the hive was covered with wire cloth. We took a lesson from this, and put wire cloth over both top and bottom of the hive, and then put inch strips across, so the hive could not be put in such a way as to cover the bottom. When thus prepared, we have sent the heaviest colonies, during the lottest of summer weather, in hives full of honey, and had no trouble. See Moving Bees. |
how bees do their own ventilating. |
If you watch a colony of bees during a warm day, you will see rows of bees standing around the entrance, and far inside of the hive, with their heads pointing one way, all making their wings go in a peculiar manner, much as they do in flying; but instead of propelling their bodies along, they propel the air behind them, and a pretty strong " blow " they get up too, as you may tell by holding your hand near them. Well, if the air is very hot and close inside the hive, so that there is danger of the combs melting down, they manage to send cooling currents clear to the furthest parts of the hive, and even up a small hole into honey-boxes, when made after old-fashioned patterns. This idea is not by any means new, and those who have invented patent ventilators will tell us, with a very fair show of reason, how many bees are thus employed blowing through the hive, that might just as well be out in the fields gathering honey. We once thought so, and that ventilators were needed; but after watching the matter longer, we concluded the harm done by excessive heat was far less than that from cold drafts when they were not needed, and that it is better to let a few of the bees waste some time in the middle of the day than to have comb-building stopped entirely at night, on account of drafts caused by these thoroughly ventilated hives. The most prosperous colony we ever owned was one that was so completely enveloped in chaff that they sent a stream of warm air out of their hive during frosty nights in March, strong enough to melt the frost about one side of the entrance. Of course, a stream of cold air went in at the opposite side as fast as the warm air went out. When we can get a hive into this condition of things they always prosper; and it is on this account that we would have no other arrangement for ventilation than that furuished by the entrance. See Wintering. |
**VINGGAR.** This is one of the legitimate products of honey ; and when properly made it has a quality quite superior to any other vinegar, especially for making pickles. It will not die, nor lose its strength like most other vinegars; and one can have light or dark vinegar by taking light or dark honey to make it from--at least so says l. R. Murphy, of Fulton, Ill., who has made and sold large quantities of honey vinegar. Speaking of pickles made of honey vinegar, Mr. G. W. Gates, of Bartlett, Tenn., says: " We have used no other for two years ; and nearly every one who tastes our pickles asks my wife for her recipe for making them. When told that we use nothing but honey vinegar, they are surprised." Mr. E. France, of Platteville, Wis., asked the wife of one of the merchants why she always bought his vinegar ; and her reply was, that the stuff from the store always ate up her pickles ; but that, when she uses honey vinegar, her pickles keep, and have a beautiful fine flavor. |
Notwithstanding the fact that vinegar from honey is the finest in the world, the very low price of the ordinary product from cider makes it impossible to get a very high price for honey vinegar. The length of time it takes to make it, and the quantity of honey required, would make the vinegar too high-priced to compete with the other kinds on the market. But every bee-keeper always has some poorer grades, some from broken combs, washings from honey-barrels, honey-cans, etc., that will be practically wasted unless made into vinegar. Mr. E. France always uses the washings of his honey-barrels ; and this sweetened water he converts into vinegar. When we can utilize honey that would practically all go to waste, and convert it into cash, we are just that much ahead. |
honey vinegar, how to make. |
The honey - water and honey - washings should be put into a burrel with the top head taken out. To determine whether the water is sweet enough, drop in a fresh egg. If the egg will just float so as to leave a spot above the liquid, about as big as a ten-cent piece, then it is " all right," according to E. France. Another bee-keeper, Mr. G. D. Black, of Brandon, Ia., uses an ordinary hydrometer, which he says he bought for 35 cents. When this sinks into the liquid so the scale registers at 11, it is of the right consistency. Next cover the top of the barrel with cheese-cloth, and let it stand in a warm place where it can work and sour. In winter it should be put into the cellar. It will take anywhere from one to two years to make good vinegar. But the process can be greatly hurried by putting in "mother " from another barrel. |
**VIRGINQUENS.** See Queens. |
**W.** |
**WATER FOR BEES.** That bees need water has been pretty well demonstrated; but the best means of supplying them is not very satisfactorily settled. The amount of water required depends largely on rearing brood in considerablequantities, and whether their food is old, thick (possibly candied) honey, or new honey right from the fields. The latter contains usually a large quantity of water that must be expelled before the honey can be ripened. See Honey; also Centilation. While the bees are gathering this thin, raw nectar, as a matter of course they want less water, if any at all, besides what the honey affords them. This new honey is frequently so thin that it runs like sweetened water out of the combs when they are turned horizontally, and tastes like it. The excess of moisture is probably--for we do not have positive proof on the matter--expelled by the strong currents of air the bees keep circulating through the hive to take up waterly particles and speedily reduce the honey to such a consistency that it will not sour. If you examine a hive very early in the morning during the height of the honey season you will find the blast of air that comes out, quite heavily charged with moisture; and when the weather is a little cool, this moisture often condenses and accumulates on the alighting board until it forms a little pool of water. Where the alighting-board was of the right shape to retain water, we have seen it so deep as to drown bees passing out. These bees, it would seem, at least were in no need of water. |
Admitting that bees need water at other times, how shall we give it? If there is a creek or a pond within a few rods of the apiiry do not fuss to make any watering-place, as, nine times out of ten, bees will ignore what we prepare for them. But where there is no water-trough, creek, or pond within easy reach it may be well to give the bees two or three watering-places in or near the quiary. The best arrangement is a grooved board having an inverted glass or stone jar on it, as seen in the accompanying illustration. The water will run down and fill the grooves as fast as the bees remove it, on the atmospheric principle; but as it is difficult to make such a board, one can, in lieu of it, over the whole thing. The water will bubble out immediately till the plate has a depth of water of about \(\pm\) inch, or whatever the thickness of the stieks is. Set the device in a convenient spot near the apiary; and to prevent the bees drowning lay little strips of wood in the water. If previously salted a little, this water serves as an additional attraction. |
Let it be distinctly understood as entirely unnecessary to go to all this trouble, providing bees can get water in abundance from some pump, creek, or pond, as mentioned. If, however, there are neighbors who complain about the bees congregating about their pumps or troughs, it may be well to fix up counter-attraettions such as jars of water slightly suited, to draw the bees away. In addition to this, take a pair of water and put into it a tablesponful of commercial carbonic acid. Stir it well, then spray or spatter this water around the pump of your neighbor who complains of your bees. As explained under Robbins, bees seem to have a great aversion to curbolic acid; and where a solution of it is sprinkled they keep entirely away. |
Wax. This is a term that is applied to a large class of substances very much resembling one another in external characteristics, but quite unlike chemically. The wax of commerce may be divided into four general classes: Beeswax, familiar to us all; mineral wax, or by-products from petroleum; wax from plants, and wax from insects other than bees. But the first two are by far the most important commercially, in this country. Of the mineral waxes we have what is most common, viz., parallel and eersin. Beeswax is the most valuable, and has a specific gravity of between 960 and 972, and melting-point of between 143 and 145- F. The mineral waxes vary so much in hardness, melting-point, and specific gravity, that it would be useless to name exact figures. As a rule, however, it may be stated that the fusing-point of paraffine is much below that of beeswax, while that of eeresin may be either above or below, or practically the same. In general, we may say that the specific gravity of both commercial jauridine and eeresin is below that of beeswax; which fact renders it an easy matter to detectudreation of beeswax with either paraffine or eeresin, by a method that will be explained further on, under the head of Adulteration of Beeswax. |
There are also known to commerce Japanese wax and Chiua wax, both of which may or may not be the product of insects or plants. As they are so much more expensive than either paraffine or eeresin, little fear need be entertained of their use as adulterants of beeswax. |
beeswax. |
For the bees and their keeper, no product has ever been discovered that can take the place of that which the bees themselves furnish. Real beeswax retains ductility and tenacity under greater ranges of temperature than any mineral, plant, or insect wax. Combs made from foundation containing 25 to 50 per cent of adulterations of paraffine or eeresin are very liable to melt down in the hive in hot weather. Paraffine is ductile enough to make beautiful foundation, but does not stand the heat of the hive. Ceresin, on the other hand, while more closely allied to genuine beeswax in point of specific gravity and fusibility, is too tough and brittle, under some conditions, for bees to work. Work it? Yes, they _eill_, and construct combs; and in Germany we understand that considerable eresin foundation has been and perhaps is being sold now; but our experience leads us to believe that it is poor economy, and will lead the bee-keeper or the poor bees to grief sooner or later. Practically, then, we can say that genuine beeswax is the only product that ought to go into foundation; and we are glad to say that it is the only article that foundation-makers in this country use. |
How bees "make" wax. |
If you watch the bees closely during the height of the honey-harvest, or, what is perhaps better, feel a colony heavily on sugar syrup for three days during warm weather, toward the end of the second or third day, on looking closely you will see little pearly disks of wax, somewhat resembling fish-scales, protruding from between rings on the under side of the body of the bee, which, examined with a magnifier, reveal little wax eakes of rare beauty. Sometimes, especially when the bees are being fed heavily, these wax scales full on the bottom-board and may be scraped up in considerable quantities, seeming for some reason not to have been wanted. During the seasons for natural eeretion of wax, where the colony has a hive affording plenty of room for surplus we believe wax seales are seldom wasted. At swarming-time there seems to be an unusual number of bees provided with them; for when bees remain clustered on a limb for only a few minutes, bits of wax are attached, as if they were going to start comb. When domiciled in their new hive, comes the time, should it please them, to show astonishing skill and dexterity in fabricating honeycomb. |
beeswax in the arts. |
Under the action of the United Stat s purefood law that went in effect Jan. 1, 1907, beeswax will have much larger use than ever. Indeed, there is already a notable increase in the price. Druggists (thousands and thousands of whom in the country formerly used paraffine, ceresin, and the like) will now be _compiled_ under the new law to use nothing but pure beeswax, and the amount will run up into the hundreds of thousands of pounds. But what use have druggists for wax? They require it in making plasters, certain kinds of ointments, and for certain medicines known to the pharmacopoeia. |
There has always been a large use for paraffine and eeresin in making candy; but now this must cease, while beeswax will be permitted as before. These two industries alone will increase the demand for the product of the hive to a great extent; and while we do not expect an immediate advance in the price of wax over and above what has already taken place, the time is not far distant when bee-keepers having dark honeys will do well to consider the possibility of making wax-production a business. |
The new pure-food law will have no effect one way or the other on the use of paraffine, ceresin, and the like in any compound or mixtures that do not belong either to the food or drug classes. Electrotypers can use a substitute for taking impressions, although the great majority, we understand, prefer pure beesvax, even at a higher price. Natural-wood finishers can still use paraffine and ceresin; but most of them assert that there is nothing to compare for that purpose with pure beesvax. The first mentioned gives a greasy, smeary finish, while the product from the hive yields a highly polished surface--one that stands wear as nothing else will; a finish cheaper than hard oil--not by the gallon, but to apply. |
The Roman Catholic Church uses large quantities of beesvax in the form of candles. She does not tolerate paraffine, ceresin, nor any of the mineral vaxes, all of which give off a nasty greasy odor, while burning, whereas candles made of beesvax leave a delightful perfume. Then, too, the burning of mineral wax causes a deposit that injures pictures, while beesvax mellows and preserves them. |
Certain grades of blacking, harness oils, and lubricants require pure beesvax in their manufacture. A blacking containing beesvax will with stand more dampness than that made of any other substance. |
The electrical-supply business is a consumer of our product. The windings of the wire are soaked in paraffine or beesvax--preferably the latter, because it seems less affected by extremes of heat and by moisture. Pattern-makers also use beesvax. The profession of dentistry consumes large quantities of pure wax every year to take impressions of the mouth. |
In all the arts, paraffine, ceresin, and certain other mineral vaxes can be used; but, if we are correctly informed, none of them have all the desirable qualities furnished by the product from the hive. |
\(WAX\)-\(RENDERING\). |
solar wax-extractors. |
It is said the sun wax-extractor was originated in California about the year I862. At that time it was used for extracting honey from the combs. The honey-extractor of today being then unknown, it is related that the early Californians extracted their honey largely by means of the sun's heat. They simply placed their cards of comb in large trays covered with glass, where old Sol, by the mere beuming of his countenance, did the work. As the combs melted, the honey and wax ran together into a receptacle. In the evening, the wax, by reason of its lighter weight, was hardening, and floated on the surface of the honey. The Californians thus practically accomplished two objects at one and the same operation--extracting both honey and wax--the latter already in marketable shape. As to the quality of the honey so separated from the combs, it is much better than one would suppose, but inferior to the ordinary extracted. Recently the use of the solar wax-extractor has been restricted to the melting of wax. |
To a casual observer it seems almost incredible that wax can be melted by the aid of the sun. It is well known to the bekeeper that little seraps of wax in summer weather will melt on a hive-cover exposed to the direct rays of the sun. If, therefore, we cover a shallow box with a sheet of glass, and place therein a piece of comb, it will utilize a much larger percentage of heat. Still further, by collecting more rays of the sun, and casting them into the box by means of a reflector (a sheet of tin, for example), a correspondingly greater increase of temperature may be expected. The reflector, however, is unnecessary, as sufficient heat is obtained without it. |
This machine has had a very large sale. Its general design is after a pattern made and used by the well-known bee-keeper G. M. Doolittle. The only objection to it is that it is rather small, but just the right size |
if old comb is simply melted in hot water or steam, these cocoons will become saturated with wax, making the loss very great. The following discussion, therefore, will have to do especially with the difficulties encountered in rendering wax from old combs. |
There are many different methods practiced by bee-keepers all over the world to obtain the wax from old brood-combs; and it is needless to say that, in many of them, |
the loss is considerable. One of the crudest methods is to throw the combs into a large iron kettle of water and then build a fire and boil the c'ntents for several hours, skimming the wax off the top of the water meanwhile. More comb is added from time to time, and |
the process is continued perhaps all day. Finally a piece of wire screen is weighted down on the refuse to keep it out of the way and facilitate dipping the wax. Careful experiments have shown that this method wastes from 25 to 40 per cent of the total amount of wax, while a great deal of time is required to clean and refine what little wax is secured. |
Another plan which has been advocated to some extent is that shown in Fig. 2. A |
sack of comb is held under the surface of the water, and agitated or punched with a stick for a long time until much of the wax is released and floats to the surface, where it may be dipped off. This method results in somewhat cleaner wax; but there is apt to be nearly equal waste to the plan before mentioned. |
There is another method that is used more, perhaps, than the two which have just been described. It is a somewhat better plan, for the amount of waste is not so great. It is shown in Fig. 3. |
In order to get the best results the weights should be arranged that they can be lifted up a few inches in order to give the refuse in the sack a chance to become saturated again with hot water. |
The weights should then be lowered, and this process kept up for several hours, the water meanwhile boiling vigorously. The wax should be dipped off almost as fast as it rises to the surface, in order to keep it from di-coloring due to long continued heat. |
In 1901 Mr. T. J. Penniek, of Williston, Tenn., suggested the use of centrifugal force applied to hot slumgum just taken out of boiling water. It was his opinion that the free wax, when hot, would by this means readily separate from the solid matter in a very short time. Extensive experiments have developed the fact that there would be a great deal of wax which would not escape from the refuse, no matter how fast it might be whirled in an extractor, showing that even great centrifugal force could not separate the wax from the refuse. |
Wax nearest the outside might be thrown out; but that nearest the center would be held back and not allowed to escape. |
Mr. A. C. Miller, of Providence, R. I., some time ago devised an agitator and applied it to the rendering of wax. The old combs in such an agitator are thoroughly stirred and rubbed under hot water so that the wax is liberated and rises to the surface, |
Figure 3: A portable but wasteful and slow method of obtaining wax. |
Figure 2: A very crude and wasteful method of rendering. |
where it is drawn off through a point. As will be seen, this is somewhat similar to the plan shown in Fig. 2, before mentioned, although it would be, of course, a great improvement on that very crude method. |
From our experiments, and from reports we have received from hundreds of beekeepers, it would seem as though the wax-press were by all means the most satisfactory wax-extractor yet devised. We doubt |
whether any thing but pressure combined with heat can remove all of the wax. In saying this, we realize that there will probably never be a wax-extractor of any kind that will economically remove the last particle of wax; but if the amount of waste can be reduced to less than one per cent, the loss is an item that can be neglected. |
Before entering the discussion of wax-preses it may be well to add a word of caution to bee-keepers who are sure that the particular method they are using enables them to obtain all the wax or practically all-If the refuse, when they are done, has not been put through a well-constructed press we believe that there will be no way of determining the amount of waste, for it night contain as much as 20 per cent of wax and still look perfectly clean and show no traces of it when examined. On a small scale it is possible to get some idea of the amount of wax left in refuse by the following very simple plan: |
Thoroughly heat in boiling water the refuse to be tested, then allow it to cool slightly: seize a large handful, and squeeze it as much as possible in the fingers. If fine lines of wax appear in the creases between the fingers a good deal of wax is left--perhaps from five to ten per cent or more, depending upon the amount of wax shown. The hand will not be burned in the very short time necessary to make this test. But, as before stated--the most conclusive method of determining the waste is to run the _refuse_ through a well-constructed press. |
hot-water wax-presses. |
In these the pressure may be continued without the least danger of chilling the combs. This method has also a decided advantage in that the screw can be raised after having been turned down, and the cheese allowed to become saturated again with boiling water. The screw may then be lowered, and this hot water forced out of the refuse, carrying with it more of the wax. This operation must be repeated as often as found necessary by experience. It is thus seen that there is no disagreeable handling of the refuse until all the wax is out. Furthermore, the work, if necessary, may be confined to the one tank. |
Mr. Orel L. Hershiser, of Buffalo, N. Y., devised the hot-water press shown in Fig.5. The capacity of this is large, so that it is possible to obtain as much as 75 pounds of wax in one day over a common stove. One great objection to hot-water presses heretofore has been their relatively small capacity of wax per day. Mr. Hershiser, by making the press very large, overcomes this difficulty. |
The quality of wax from hot-water pre-ses is usually not very good, because of the long-continued high temperature. In the Hershiser press more hot water is introduced at short intervals into the lower part, causing the melted wax to overflow through the outlet at the top. In this way the wax is not left for any great length of time on the boiling water, so that the color is not darkened. |
Perhaps one objection to hot-water presses is the cost of the outfit; but for extensive bee-keepers we believe that they are the most practical, as somewhat cleaner work can be done, owing to the long-continued intermittent pressure on the refuse surrounded by hot water. In other words, old combs rendered in a hot-water press may be pressed as many as fifteen or twenty times, so that it is possible to reduce the final loss to only a fraction of one per cent. |
If one wishes to try the hot-water method by using an outlet constructed at home he can follow the plan shown in Fig. 6. An ordinary kettle may be used, although it would be advisable to have one with a flat bottom. As it would be rather difficult to construct a cross-beam over the kettle rigid enough to stand the pressure exerted by a |
Figure 4: an unhandy and unnatifactory plan. |
serve, a lever had better be used as shown, though some means will have to be employed to keep it from falling over sidewise, such as a loop around a tree or post. In using a lever it is important to have it so adjusted that the pressure will be uniform and directly downward. Any pressure exerted from a point not directly over the kettle will result in pressing the refuse to one |