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Q: Performance hit of installing a new hard drive in a MacBook Pro I have a MacBook Pro 5,3 with a 7200 rpm 500 GB hard drive. I am running out of space and I have been considering upgrading with Western Digital's 1 TB laptop hard drive. I am just curious if I am going to get a big hit to my performance.
This is the hard drive I am looking at:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136545
A: ATTENTION
You do not specify a MacBook pro, but mine (pre-unibody) it ca not take those drives as you can read it has 12.5mm height and the maximum of a MBP Drive is 9.5mm
That is why several 500Gb drives did not fit MBP's and the one you are mentioning will never fit your laptop.
added
Currently, the max capacity on a 9.5mm Hard Drive is 750Gb (WD Scorpio Blue 5400rpm), and SSD is 480Gb (OWC SSD Extreme Pro) --> I bought mine here but 240Gb, it's superb!
to learn how to swap them (unibody, late 2008 models), see this OWC video and if you want to check the performance from an SSD and a HHD, please check this video.
my own SSD:
A: If the new drive is also 7200 rpm, what you’re going to get is usually a faster drive, more modern with (possibly) more internal cache which could lead to a slight improvement. In any case, the difference between 7200 and 5400 rpm is not that much. There is a difference and you will notice it in certain things, but there are other factors that will affect performance way before the disk in a day to day usage. Unless all you do is write/read files from the disk, get the bigger disk you can afford. Of course you can always get a 2TB external FW drive and store all the junk there, while still having plenty of room in the internal drive.
Or you could get a smaller 128/256 SSD super faster drive and store most of your stuff in your external 500rpm drive (in a USB External Enclosure for 10 bucks), but leaving your OS in the internal super fast SSD.
Options… options… :)
In any case, always get as much ram as you can afford.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2454",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How to sync two iPhones to the same Mac and to Nike+? The two iPhones appears in iTunes but the run data is not synced with Nike+
A: Humm, this is weird, mine does ok, but I never tried with both on iTunes... always one of a time.
I did found several forum discussions regarding the out of sync with Nike Plus, and this is from Aug 26th and already have 8 pages :o
it describes plenty of out of sync workouts (maybe it's an app bug)
http://forums.nike.com/thread.jspa?threadID=28016
probably is a good idea to post on Nike forum as well.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2456",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: What to do with broken iPhone 3G? A friend order an iPhone 4 to replace his iPhone 3G which has a cracked screen. He offered it to me.
I have AT&T on a family plan with no text or data. What should I do with the phone?
I'm open to suggestions, but I'm considering...
*
*fixing the screen and then selling it. I'd put that money towards purchasing the iPhone 4 with a data plan.
*fixing the screen and keeping it.
*selling without fixing the screen.
I guess I could keep it without fixing the screen too, but...
A: You can buy very cheap screen replacements on ebay (about AU$30). I have fitted one of these myself, it is not too hard.
A: I sold mine without fixing it and got a nice price on ebay.
A: use it as a External HardDrive.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2457",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: How to find songs on iPod I recently downloaded a YouTube playlist, ripped the audio, and added it to my iPod/iTunes library. Currently the songs are in my "Recently Added" playlist, but once they disappear from there, I don't know I'll find them.
I've checked if the name of the playlist (also the name of the directory the files are stored in) is being used as either the album name or artist name, and it's not.
A: Choose the track in iTunes and choose get info (cmd-I)
The summary tab gives a description of the track including album, artist etc and the full path in the filesystem
The info tab gives the details of the album, artist, album artist ie what artist appears in the iTunes listing
The sorting tab might also be of interest for this issue
These artist and albums will also be the ones used on the iPod
Also you can change the recently added playlist to include more tracks by changing the number in the definition of the smart playlist
A: Your best bet is to create a Smart Playlist called “Recently Added” (or similar) with the following rules (adjust to your likings):
note: the “media is not podcast” is my own thing, you can remove that, but it’s pretty straightforward.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2460",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Disconnecting an iPhone from Exchange while preserving data If an iPhone is configured to sync with Exchange, what's the best way to break that connection while preserving all the contact and note data on the phone? Is it enough to remove the Exchange account and then sync with Outlook directly? Or are there other gotchas with that?
A: You can't; Exchange is an all-or-nothing deal. The only way to keep the data would be to export it to another service (e.g., MobileMe, Yahoo, Gmail, whichever works), break the connection, and then reimport the data into your regular contacts.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2469",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: How do you prevent an iPod Classic (and other iPods) from losing ratings on sync On a number of occasions I have synced my iPod after several months of ratings only to have all of my meticulously applied stars get erased from the iPod Classic.
I switched from the more convenient Manual mode to Automatic management but it still seems to wipe my ratings. The ideal behavior would be to have iTunes sync the new stars back to my library. Why wouldn't this happen?
A: Im not sure this is default behavior. I use stars and smart playlists to actually help manage things (smart playlist to delete songs, and then rate things with 5 stars that need to be 'processed'). I sync usually once a week, and it always syncs these changes back and forth.
Its supposed to sync all the songs in recently played to update their metadata (like playcounts) as well. Maybe if you don't sync for months, that playlist doesn't show everything, and therefore looses some of your ratings?
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2473",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Office '08 Can't Read Chinese Characters in Windows-Created Docs? One of my friends had recently purchased a MacBook Pro 13" and had been astounded to find that he couldn't read some of his old documents that were in Chinese in Office 2008.
All the characters had been reduced to little square blocks like [].
A: He needs to make sure that he has the correct fonts installed—Office is trying to display the document, but couldn't find the necessary characters.
It's possible that the previous owner of the MBP deleted fonts he didn't use, or that those particular documents used a font that didn't come with the OS.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2474",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Mac or Macintosh Commercially speaking they are the same, as stated by Wikipedia, but what should be the correct way to name our precious personal devices?
A: Im pretty sure Mac is the preferred term now, and usually when they are being discussed, the type of Mac is usually mentioned (iMac, Mac Pro, etc). Professionally they are usually addressed as Macs vs Macintosh as well. Either way you would be right.
Though, on some of the newest packaging, my new iMac box said 'Apple Macintosh' on it. And in some of the paperwork, they use Macintosh and Mac interchangeably.
A: The Menu says "About this Mac", but the default name for the primary drive installed in the machine is "Macintosh HD" (even on machines with SSDs), so Apple hasn't completely done away with the term "Macintosh".
A: In the October 4, 2011 Special Event, Apple CEO Tim Cook introduced the sales figures for computers by calling it the Macintosh (source: http://www.apple.com/apple-events/october-2011/). He subsequently referred to it as the Mac, but if the company CEO still uses the term "Macintosh" I'd say the name is not defunct.
A: Mac or Macintosh are the same thing. I’ve got a Mac Computer or I’ve got a Macintosh Computer are the same. As long as you don’t use MAC instead of Mac. You can also say I’ve got an Apple computer.
A: Apple no longer calls them Macintosh, just "Mac" for the entire range of devices, and "iMac" "MacBook", "Mac Mini" etc for the specific devices. So, unless you're talking about an old model that actually has "Macintosh" in the name, I'd say "Mac" is to be preferred.
A: I have noticed for many years that people who do not own or use a Macintosh (and aren't quite sure what one is) refer to them as a "MAC" in all capital letters, whereas people who actually use one always refer to it as "Mac".
This is an easy way to tell whether or not the person whose article or post you are reading has any idea about what they are saying.
"MAC", on the other hand, is an acronym for "Machine Access Code address" and refers to the unique hardware identifier of every Ethernet and WiFi network card in the world. So every (networked) computing device has its own MAC whether it's a PC, a Mac, an iPhone, or something else.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2476",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "10"
} |
Q: How hard can it be to add a "rotate" action? Can you guys teach me how to rotate an image so that when sent by email we actually send it in the right rotation?
A: Edit: As of 2016 this functionality is now part of iOS's native photo app
The following information pertains an iPhone, but I assume the iPad is identical in terms of features.
Short Answer: You can’t rotate photos in the default iOS’s Camera Software; you need to install a third party utility, like PS Express (recommended and free):
A: You can do this in the iOS photos app by tapping on the edit button on the toolbar at the bottom when viewing a photo, then choosing crop/rotate, then rotate.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2479",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Which songs in my iTunes library are DRM protected? Is there an easy way to obtain a list of all songs in my iTunes library that are protected by DRM?
A: If you want to see this information without excluding the other songs, you can modify the view options
and add the "Kind" information column.
In this column you will see the information you need.
A: Create a smart playlist and use "kind contains protected" as the first rule.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2482",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "11"
} |
Q: Is it possible to show multi-level threads in Mail.app? I like the threaded view for mail.app, but it only groups the messages per thread. In other words, there's only two levels: the original messages, and all the replies that came after that.
Is it possible (perhaps via plugin?) to show a multi-level view of the e-mail thread in mail.app?
A: I'm sorry; that's not possible.
A: As an alternative to the lack of Mail features (good threading being one of those), you can try any of the following, which I’m sure you already know:
*
*Postbox: Lots of features, multiplatform, not free.
*Thunderbird: Very decent mail client, free and also multiplatform.
*Mailplane: If you like Gmail but don’t want to lose OS X features, Mailplane is a very decent alternative combining the best of gmail with a respectable OS X integration.
*Sparrow: A new alternative (only for gmail) that is growing in popularity for its ease of use and iPad-like interface. Although it only works for gmail, the plan is to expand it. Still very beta. Still free. Worth to follow around and check every now and then.
*There may be others but these are the most known/used (excluding Mail.app of course). Eudora is also popular, but I believe it’s a little bit outdated.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2484",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: How to convert a pdf file into a text file? Is there an easy way to extract plain text from a pdf file?
On *nix systems I used to have a command ps2ascii that would do the job, but it seems that this command is not installed by default on my Mac.
What would be the easiest way to extract text from a pdf file or, alternatively, how to get ps2ascii on my system?
A: Adobe Reader has a "Save as Text…" option under the File menu. Easiest way.
A: The following python script will output the text from a PDF document to a .txt file. (Note: There is no guarantee that the text is necessarily in 'logical' human readable order, due to the way that data is held in the PDF format.)
The script will create text files for any PDF files supplied as arguments to it on the command line (e.g. pdf2txt.py myPDF.pdf), or you can use in Automator's "Run Shell Script" action, setting the shell type to python and Pass input to "As arguments".
#!/usr/bin/python
# coding: utf-8
import os, sys
from Quartz import PDFDocument
from CoreFoundation import (NSURL, NSString)
NSUTF8StringEncoding = 4
def pdf2txt():
for filename in sys.argv[1:]:
inputfile =filename.decode('utf-8')
shortName = os.path.splitext(filename)[0]
outputfile = shortName+" text.txt"
pdfURL = NSURL.fileURLWithPath_(inputfile)
pdfDoc = PDFDocument.alloc().initWithURL_(pdfURL)
if pdfDoc :
pdfString = NSString.stringWithString_(pdfDoc.string())
pdfString.writeToFile_atomically_encoding_error_(outputfile, True, NSUTF8StringEncoding, None)
if __name__ == "__main__":
pdf2txt()
A: I’m not aware of any OS X native utility that does that, however, you can install most of the unix/linux commands with any of these three methods:
Homebew: Homebrew is the easiest and most flexible way to install the UNIX tools Apple didn't include with OS X.
Fink: The Fink project wants to bring the full world of Unix Open Source software to Darwin and Mac OS X.
Macports: The MacPorts Project is an open-source community initiative to design an easy-to-use system for compiling, installing, and upgrading either command-line, X11 or Aqua based open-source software on the Mac OS X operating system.
Homebrew is the “new kid on the block” and promises to solve the “problems and limitations” that the other two have (whatever those problems may be). I suggest you take a look at all of them and use what you consider most flexible/simple for your needs.
There is, however, an app (Payware) that used to do that (I don’t know if it still does it). I’m talking about DEVONthink, and you can try a demo for a few days.
update: According to this post, you could install DevonThink (trial version) and extract the ‘pdftotext’ binary "which is free, of course" [sic] out of the bundle.
A: If you don't mind using a GUI, you can select text from a PDF opened with Preview.app
A: ps2ascii is a part of Ghostscript, which can be installed on Mac OS X (and it might already be by default from the factory).
A: Use Online document converters like Saaspose.PDF that can convert your PDF file to a TXT-based document. And because its a cloud API, there is no need to download or install anything.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2487",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "11"
} |
Q: Start/stop internet sharing from a script? Is there a way to start/stop internet sharing from the command line or maybe an apple script?
The thing is that I move around my laptop between home and work. At one place I get wireless internet (and thus I have to disable internet sharing), and at the other I get internet from an ethernet cable and set up the computer to share the internet to other devices by creating a small wireless network.
But it's getting a bit tedious having to go into System Preferences and start/stop the internet sharing every time I switch locations, so I would like to have a quick command or script to launch and do the switch on demand.
Any hints or ideas?
A: One way of doing this is by GUI scripting—System Preferences doesn't have any Applescript support by default.
tell application "System Preferences" to set current pane to pane "com.apple.preferences.sharing"
delay 1
tell application "System Events" to tell process "System Preferences"
click checkbox 1 of row 8 of table 1 of scroll area 1 of group 1 of window "Sharing" -- change to row 10 if you are using anything before Snow Leopard
delay 1
if (exists sheet 1 of window "Sharing") then
click button "Start" of sheet 1 of window "Sharing"
end if
end tell
ignoring application responses
tell application "System Preferences" to quit
end ignoring
A: I had far better results (for an already configured sharing setup) on 10.11.6 with the simple variations...
sudo launchctl start com.apple.NetworkSharing
and
sudo launchctl stop com.apple.NetworkSharing
respectively.
A: Definitive workaround to wifi-sharing constant breaking down in MacosX
I have found a system that finally works and when, less frequently wifi sharing breaks, it manages to recover it automatically in a minute.
The solution is a ~/Library/LaunchAgents/com.me.wifisharingup.plist daemon with the next contents:
<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<!DOCTYPE plist PUBLIC "-//Apple//DTD PLIST 1.0//EN" "http://www.apple.com/DTDs/PropertyList-1.0.dtd">
<plist version="1.0">
<dict>
<key>Label</key>
<string>com.juanfal.wifisharingup</string>
<key>ProgramArguments</key>
<array>
<string>/Users/mi/bin/wifisharingup.sh</string>
</array>
<key>Nice</key>
<integer>1</integer>
<key>StartInterval</key>
<integer>60</integer>
<key>RunAtLoad</key>
<true/>
<key>StandardErrorPath</key>
<string>/Users/me/Library/Logs/wifisharingup.err</string>
<key>StandardOutPath</key>
<string>/Users/me/Library/Logs/wifisharingup.out</string>
</dict>
</plist>
You can see, each minute it runs the simple script that follows. Be careful making the previous plist be owned by the root and launch it with:
sudo chown root com.me.wifisharingup.plist
sudo launchctl load /Users/me/Library/LaunchAgents/com.me.wifisharingup.plist
The script it launches each minute (don't forget to make it executable) is:
#!/bin/sh
if [[ ! `ipconfig getifaddr en1` ]]; then
/usr/sbin/networksetup -setairportpower en1 off
/usr/sbin/networksetup -setairportpower en1 on
echo `date` >> "/Users/me/Library/Logs/wifisharingup.err"
else
touch "/Users/me/Library/Logs/wifisharingup.out"
fi
I think the simple periodically (each minute) call to ipconfig getifaddr en1 refreshes something in what is the wifi sharing daemon. Whatever it is, any moment the wifi sharing fails, it looses the self assigned IP address, and then, ipconfig getifaddr en1 fails, so my script totally resets wifi, making it rebuild its previous status and recovering the wifi-sharing.
It has been working for days so far inside a MacMini without keyboard, mouse or monitor, but only plugged into the Ethernet and giving my wifi gadgets access to the world.
A: To start Internet Sharing from the CLI:
sudo launchctl load -w /System/Library/LaunchDaemons/com.apple.InternetSharing.plist
To stop, change the load to unload.
Note that if you have the pref pane open when you run this you will not see the change take effect immediately (the UI won't update), but it does work.
A: I took a cue from mankoff's answer and wrapped it up in an AppleScript. I'm using this script from Automator so that I can easily use it as a service and give it a keyboard shortcut.
Toggle Internet Sharing:
register_growl()
try
if isRunning("InternetSharing") then
do shell script "launchctl unload -w /System/Library/LaunchDaemons/com.apple.InternetSharing.plist" with administrator privileges
if isRunning("InternetSharing") then
error "Internet Connection Sharing was Not Disabled"
else
my growlnote("Success", "Internet Connection Sharing Disabled")
end if
else
do shell script "launchctl load -w /System/Library/LaunchDaemons/com.apple.InternetSharing.plist" with administrator privileges
if isRunning("InternetSharing") then
my growlnote("Success", "Internet Connection Sharing Enabled")
else
error "Internet Connection Sharing was Not Enabled"
end if
end if
on error errMsg
my growlnote("Error", errMsg)
end try
on isRunning(processName)
try
return 0 < length of (do shell script "ps ax | grep -v grep | grep " & processName)
on error
return false
end try
end isRunning
on register_growl()
try
tell application "GrowlHelperApp"
set the notificationsList to {"Success", "Warning", "Error"}
register as application "Toggle Internet Connection Sharing" all notifications notificationsList default notifications notificationsList icon of application "Sharing"
end tell
end try
end register_growl
on growlnote(growltype, str)
try
tell application "GrowlHelperApp"
notify with name growltype title growltype description str application name "Toggle Internet Connection Sharing"
end tell
end try
end growlnote
A: I use the following script to toggle internet sharing on an early 2011 MacBook Pro / 10.11.3 El Capitan, so with newer hardware you might get away with shorter delays. It adopts ideas from several scripts posted for this purpose (localisation, turning wifi on/off using networksetup, close System Preferences when done).
tell application "System Preferences"
activate
reveal (pane id "com.apple.preferences.sharing")
set localized_window to the localized name of the current pane
end tell
tell application "System Events" to tell process "System Preferences"
delay 1
repeat with r in rows of table 1 of scroll area 1 of group 1 of window localized_window
if (value of static text of r as text) starts with "Internet" then
set sharingBool to value of checkbox of r as boolean
select r
if sharingBool is true
do shell script "/usr/sbin/networksetup -setairportpower en1 off"
else
do shell script "/usr/sbin/networksetup -setairportpower en1 on"
end if
click checkbox of r
end if
end repeat
delay 1
if (exists sheet 1 of window localized_window) then
click button "Start" of sheet 1 of window localized_window
end if
end tell
ignoring application responses
tell application "System Preferences" to quit
end ignoring
A: Here’s a version (in AppleScript) that works for me in macOS 13.0 Ventura:
do shell script "open -b com.apple.systempreferences /System/Library/PreferencePanes/SharingPref.prefPane"
tell application "System Events"
tell its application process "System Settings"
repeat until window "Sharing" exists
end repeat
tell window "Sharing"
set checkboxControl to checkbox "Internet Sharing" of group 1 of scroll area 1 of group 1 of group 1 of group 2 of splitter group 1 of group 1
tell checkboxControl
click
its value as boolean -- wait untill the appearance of checkbox in the UI actually changes (for visual feedback)
delay 0.3 -- wait a bit more
end tell
end tell
end tell
end tell
tell application "System Settings" to quit
A: You might want to take a look at this (possibly off topic for Stack Overflow) question and its answer: How to start/stop Internet Sharing using AppleScript.
do shell script "/bin/launchctl load -w /System/Library/LaunchDaemons/com.apple.InternetSharing.plist" with administrator privileges
A: The really easy way to do it is to combine @Philip's answer with the NetworkLocation application. NL can tell where you are, and automatically run an AppleScript when it senses you've changed locations.
I think it's required software if you have a laptop—otherwise, it's a PITA to always have to manually reset several settings whenever I change locations.
A: Slightly different than the other applescript posted (I think in a better way but…). Having options sometimes can help.
tell application "System Preferences"
activate
reveal (pane id "com.apple.preferences.sharing")
end tell
tell application "System Events"
tell process "System Preferences"
try
click checkbox of row 11 of table 1 of scroll area of group 1 of window "Sharing"
if checkbox of row 11 of table 1 of scroll area of group 1 of window "Sharing" is equal to 1 then
repeat until sheet of window 1 exists
delay 0.5
end repeat
end if
if (sheet of window 1 exists) then
click button "Start" of sheet of window 1
end if
tell application "System Preferences" to quit
activate (display dialog "Internet Sharing preferences sucessfully flipped")
on error
activate
display dialog "something went wrong in automation but you are probably in the right menu…"
return false
end try
end tell
end tell
A: Before/after any configuration the interface or interfaces involved in sharing need to be turned off/on with:
networksetup -setairportpower en1 off
then on. (networksetup -setairportpower en1 on)
My wifi was listed as en1, to lookup yours use networksetup -listnetworkserviceorder. More to the point, when starting internet sharing you will need to add more detailed NAT functionality then just setting the enabled bit.
NAT is turned on/off with bit: -int 0 = off
-int 1 = on
The only thing that is written in /Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration/com.apple.nat.plist with
defaults write /Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration/com.apple.nat\
NAT -dict Enabled -int 0
is
<!DOCTYPE plist PUBLIC "-//Apple//DTD PLIST 1.0//EN" "http://www.apple.com/DTDs/PropertyList-1.0.dtd">
<plist version="1.0">
<dict>
<key>NAT</key>
<dict>
</dict>
<key>Enabled</key>
<integer>1</integer>
</dict>
</dict>
</plist>
You will need to change your plist file to look like the following:
<!DOCTYPE plist PUBLIC "-//Apple//DTD PLIST 1.0//EN" "http://www.apple.com/DTDs/PropertyList-1.0.dtd">
<plist version="1.0">
<dict>
<key>NAT</key>
<dict>
<key>AirPort</key>
<dict>
<key>40BitEncrypt</key>
<integer>1</integer>
<key>Channel</key>
<integer>0</integer>
<key>Enabled</key>
<integer>0</integer>
<key>NetworkName</key>
<string>FancyHostNome</string>
<key>NetworkPassword</key>
<data>
</data>
</dict>
<key>Enabled</key>
<integer>1</integer>
<key>NatPortMapDisabled</key>
<false/>
<key>PrimaryInterface</key>
<dict>
<key>Device</key>
<string>en4</string>
<key>Enabled</key>
<integer>0</integer>
<key>HardwareKey</key>
<string></string>
<key>PrimaryUserReadable</key>
<string>InfiniBand</string>
</dict>
<key>PrimaryService</key>
<string>XXXXXXXX-XXXX-XXXX-XXXX-XXXXXXXXXXXX</string>
<key>SharingDevices</key>
<array>
<string>en1</string>
</array>
</dict>
</dict>
</plist>
As you can see my plist NAT file may need a little customization to fit your needs.
A: Since the GUI scripting solution posted previously requires international users to adjust the window and button names, I came up with a version that works with any system language. It also works for the other sharing option, and gives localized feedback about the sharing state. I use two different Automator services based on this, one to toggle file sharing and one to toggle internet sharing.
tell application "System Preferences"
set current pane to pane "com.apple.preferences.sharing"
set localized_window to the localized name of the current pane
set localized_app to (localized string "System Preferences")
set localized_ok to {localized string "OK"} -- File sharing
set localized_start to {localized string "START"} -- Internet sharing
end tell
delay 0.3
tell application "System Events"
tell process "System Preferences"
click checkbox 1 of row 8 of table 1 of scroll area 1 of group 1 of window localized_window
delay 0.2
select row 8 of table 1 of scroll area 1 of group 1 of window localized_window
-- change row numbers to the service you want toggled
if (exists sheet 1 of window localized_window) then
try
click button (localized_ok as string) of sheet 1 of window localized_window
on error
click button (localized_start as string) of sheet 1 of window localized_window
end try
end if
set sharing_state to the value of item 1 of static text of group 1 of window localized_window
end tell
tell application "System Preferences" to quit
display notification sharing_state with title localized_app
-- display notification exists since OS 10.9, for older systems use:
-- display dialog sharing_state buttons {localized_ok} default button 1 with title localized_app giving up after 1.5
end tell
A: Modified one of the scripts above to toggle Internet Sharing on OSX MOJAVE (10.14), it works:
tell application "System Preferences"
activate
reveal (pane id "com.apple.preferences.sharing")
delay 0.3
set current pane to pane "com.apple.preferences.sharing"
delay 0.3
set localized_window to the localized name of the current pane
set localized_app to (localized string "System Preferences")
set localized_ok to {localized string "OK"} -- File sharing
set localized_start to {localized string "START"} -- Internet sharing
end tell
delay 0.3
tell application "System Events"
tell process "System Preferences"
click checkbox 1 of row 7 of table 1 of scroll area 1 of group 1 of window localized_window
delay 0.2
select row 8 of table 1 of scroll area 1 of group 1 of window localized_window
-- change row numbers to the service you want toggled
if (exists sheet 1 of window localized_window) then
try
click button (localized_ok as string) of sheet 1 of window localized_window
on error
click button (localized_start as string) of sheet 1 of window localized_window
end try
end if
set sharing_state to the value of item 1 of static text of group 1 of window localized_window
end tell
tell application "System Preferences" to quit
display notification sharing_state with title localized_app
-- display notification exists since OS 10.9, for older systems use:
-- display dialog sharing_state buttons {localized_ok} default button 1 with title localized_app giving up after 1.5
end tell
A: /usr/bin/defaults write /Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration/com.apple.nat NAT -dict Enabled -int 0
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2488",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "25"
} |
Q: Why can Mac OS X 32-bit access all 4GB of memory, while Windows 32-bit can't? I don't understand why Mac OS X 32-bit kernel can access all 4GB of memory (and even more) while Windows 32-bit can only work with ~ 3,3 GB, and for using more than 4GB you need 64-bit Windows. Even when 32-bit Windows runs on Mac hardware with > 4GB mem, it still doesn't use it all. Sorry for talking about Windows on this site :-), I would just like to understand the difference.
A: via http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Physical_Address_Extension
To use PAE, operating system support is required. Intel versions of Mac OS X support PAE. The Linux kernel supports PAE as a build option and most major distributions provide a PAE kernel either as the default or as an option. FreeBSD and NetBSD also support PAE as a kernel build option.
Microsoft Windows implements PAE if booted with the appropriate option, but current 32-bit desktop editions enforce the physical address space within 4GB even in PAE mode. According to Geoff Chappell, Microsoft limits 32-bit versions of Windows to 4GB due to a licensing restriction, and Microsoft Technical Fellow Mark Russinovich says that some drivers were found to be unstable when encountering physical addresses above 4GB.
A: From here: http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/231766-45-windowsxp-recognizing
"Windows XP Professional 32-bit is limited to 4GB of address space. If you have 4GB of RAM installed, it will not show 4GB within Windows. What you'll probably get is the size of your pagefile subtracted from the 4GB.
Some of this address space is reserved for hardware and the OS... so you'll never have access to the full 4GB anyway. If you want to access 4GB+ of RAM... your best solution is to pick up XP Pro 64-bit... but that will only work if your P4 CPU has EMT64."
A more detailed answer can be found at: http://www.codinghorror.com/blog/2007/03/dude-wheres-my-4-gigabytes-of-ram.html
A: Recommended reading: Road to Mac OS X Snow Leopard: 64-bits, Santa Rosa, and more (and the rest of Prince McLean's Road to Snow Leopard series). If you don't want that much reading, I'll summarize:
First, you have to realize that OS X doesn't have a single 32/64-bit mode switch like Windows does; It'll happily run 64-bit apps under a 32-bit kernel, or vice versa, and both of those are independent of what the physical memory subsystem can support. Mind you, the bitness of apps and kernel do impose memory limits: an app running in 32-bit mode can only address 4GB of virtual memory no matter how much is installed/supported in the machine (although a Mac with lots of RAM can run several fully-resident 4GB processes at once); and if the kernel is in 32-bit mode it can only allocate up to 4GB for its various data structures (page table, process table, open file table, etc). This is already a bit different from the way Windows does it, as it shares address space between the kernel and the running process, so they each only get 2GB. The advantage of the Windows method is that it doesn't require a cache flush to switch in and out of the kernel, making it faster. But OS X only needs to flush the cache if both the program and kernel are in 32-bit mode; if either is 64-bit, they share space and avoid the speed penalty.
Now, on to the question you're asking about: physical RAM limits. Many early Intel Macs actually have the same ~3GB memory limit that 32-bit Windows has, for the same reason: some of the 4GB physical address space is taken up by memory mapped I/O, especially the video card. Some later Macs used the Santa Rosa support chipset, which allowed them to put the I/O in a separate address space, and use up to 4GB of physical RAM. Higher-end (/even newer) Macs have PAE, which allows much more physical RAM. Rumor is that Windows doesn't support PAE in most of their 32-bit OSes because of driver compatibility problems. Apple controls most of the relevant drivers anyway, so they made it work; if the hardware supports it, the OS just uses it.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2498",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: Reduce colors from Millions to Thousands I was trying to run a Keynote presentation on a secondary display and Keynote told me that I didn't have enough video RAM and either needed to reduce the resolution or number of colors from Millions to Thousands. I know how to change the resolution, but how do I change the number of colors?
Thanks!
A: For some reason, the option to change color depth was removed in Snow Leopard. SwitchResX can still do it I think, but that's shareware (10-day demo).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2503",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Run Keynote Presentation in a Window Is there a way to run a Keynote presentation in a window instead of fullscreen? I changed the resolution to one smaller than my display, and it displays it centered. I need it in the upper left corner of the screen to record it with Camtasia.
A: The latest update of keynote allow you to do play the presentation in a window.
Upgrade your keynote to 10.1 and simply play your slideshow via play-> play slideshow in screen.
10.1Jul 9, 2020 • Use the new “Play Slideshow in Window” option to have access to other applications while presenting locally or via
video conferencing.
A: You can export it as a QuickTime movie and choose the Manual Advance Playback mode. It will behave exactly as a Presentation (click to advance and so on) and you will not loose any of the effects (animations, transitions, etc).
Once you have it in Quicktime then you can just present it in a window. Make sure you select Full Quality so you get the best possible movie out.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2504",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "15"
} |
Q: HDR photos on iPhone 3GS with iOS4.1 I've just installed iOS 4.1 on my iPhone 3GS, and want to try the new HDR feature in the Camera App... But it doesn't seem to be available.
Is it possible to use it in the 3GS? Do I need to do anything else?
A: Sorry, the HDR feature added in iOS 4.1 only works on iPhone 4.
Take great photos that capture a wider range of light intensity using the new high dynamic range (HDR) setting on iPhone 4, which automatically combines multiple exposures into a single HDR image.
If you want to take HDR photos on your 3GS, there's an app for that: Pro HDR.
A: The HDR feature is for the iPhone 4 only. I believe it requires the higher-quality camera of that version.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2507",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Where can I get install discs for OS X 10.5 to max out a Powerbook G4? Over the past year, my dad's Powerbook G4 (OS X 10.3) lost the ability to run any usable version of firefox or other end of life PPC software. Apple customer service wouldn't sell him a copy of 10.5 and told him to search ebay for copies of OS X 10.5, 8 months after releasing 10.6. We've been watching ebay and the price just keeps climbing above the original price.
I told him to buy a copy of 10.6 and the license should allow for installing older versions. He took it to a 3rd party Mac dealer and they said they couldn't install 10.5 if he doesn't own a 10.5 license (which no one will sell anymore). Does the OS 10.6 license cover older versions of OS X? Can 10.5 be obtained for the original price anywhere?
A: Firstly, I'm not sure where you heard that 10.6 shipped less than six months ago. It actually shipped in August 2009, making it over 12 months old.
Old system software tends to sell at a premium. I'm not sure why, but it may be at least partially because Apple no longer produces them. However, as Apple only sells 10.6 as a stand-alone OS (that is, it doesn't sell upgrade versions, just full) you can legitimately buy 10.5 from anyone with a copy who has since upgraded to 10.6.
There are plenty of places to buy 10.5 if you're willing to shop around. Keep an eye on this search and this search and see what turns up. For instance, this eBay sale is currently going for $40.
A: No the 10.6 license doesn't cover 10.5, and no, you won't find it anywhere for the original price.
I'm assuming his powerbook is running 10.4? To be perfectly honest, 10.5 runs like crap on a G4. I have a 1.67 PBG4 and firefox runs so slow that it's unusable. Take a look at the PPC optimized builds of firefox at http://firefoxmac.furbism.com/. Or try Opera, it's been much better for me.
Stick with 10.4, 10.5 will slow him down even worse!
edit
Since apparently I can't read, this answer may not have much relevance. However, I'd still advise against moving up to 10.5. If you can get your hands on 10.4, I think that would be the way to go. Firefox and most other apps are still supporting 10.4.
A: So Apple will actually sell you a copy of OS X 10.5, Leopard, for $130 through 1-800-MY-Apple. They just tell you to look at eBay first, and will push back a few times before relenting and offering to sell you the upgrade.
Not everyone you talk to at Apple may know this, so you may have to talk to more than one rep. One of the leads at the local apple store knew this.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2514",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How can I burn a CD from iTunes and include CD track names and cover art image I want to burn a CD from iTunes and include a picture of my own as the cover art. So then when people stick the CD into their computer, it shows a picture in iTunes in the cover art section.
A: You can't.
CD do not contain any image anywhere. What happen when you insert the CD is that iTunes looks at the number of songs, their length, the length of silence between song and derives a number from it. It then asks the iTunes Store to find if a CD with this pattern exists. If it does the iTunes Store returns the cover art and all the metadata about the CD (Artist, album name, song names...).
For CDs you burned yourself you can't provide this information to iTunes just from the CD. Unless you find a label to release your CD to the masses and then Apple will add it to its list.
A: There is a format called CD-Text that allows you to include track data (but not cover art, AFAICT), and iTunes lets you enable that format as an option. In the screenshot bmike posted, you can see "Include CD Text" as an option under Audio CD--that's how to enable this. I just tried it on my machine and the option is grayed out--apparently not all drives can write this format.
This wikipedia article has more information and lists a number of programs that can burn the format.
Whether the recipients of the disc can do anything useful with the extra information is another question.
A: If you burn the songs as a Data Disc or a MP3, iTunes includes the music files with the correct tags. If your songs have artwork embedded into the song files, your friends will get all the information and artwork you have prepared for them without needing iTunes to retrieve the artwork as a second step.
There are many tutorials and scripts on the internet to help you through the process. Just embed, and change the export options to keep your artwork with the music.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2515",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: How can I get boot details when booting from Snow Leopard DVD? I'm running into a situation where I need to repair my main partition but I can not get my machine to boot off the Snow Leopard DVD. It will boot up, let me choose my language, then go to the "Preparing Installation" (I think that's what it says) screen just before you get to the install wizard and utilities. After that the screen goes gray and then the machine cuts off, black screen, no lights, no power.
Also I seem unable to boot into an Ubuntu install cd (which seems to hang up) or into Safe Mode via holding Shift at startup (which gives me folder with a question mark in it).
Does you guys know any way I can get details about what's going on to see what the problem is? The disc I'm using is the 10.6 Snow Leopard DVD when it first came out (no idea if newer burns have updated versions).
Specs:
*
*2008 unibody MacBook Pro 15" 4 gb
*1067 DDR3
*2.53 Core 2 320 gb HD
*10.6.4 OS X (upgarded install from the original 10.5)
I'm tempted to just try installing 10.5 fresh and see if I can do the upgrade, or find out how to get a detailed boot from the Ubuntu install disc.
EDIT: Just as a note, I can boot fine off my 10.5 install disc that came with my laptop originally. I'm just not sure if any changes between then and 10.6 would make using those disk utilities a bad idea. I know the versions are different. Also the memtest utility was successful off the Ubuntu disc, but it just sort of hangs up during the boot process.
A: There should be a point—after you choose the language, but before it starts trying to install the OS—where you see a Utilities option in the menu bar.
Do you get to this point? If so, what happens when you choose Disk Utility?
There's more information about this at Using Disk Utility to Repair a Disk (University of Wisconsin).
OK, now it's a different question, so here's my different answer:
If repairing your main partition is what you want to accomplish, why not just run Disk Utility off the 10.5 system disk?
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2517",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: What do I need to connect a second monitor to my MacBook Pro? I would like to use my MacBook Pro with a second monitor. What do I need to be able to do this?
A: Your MacBook Pro could have various display ports depending on its vintage:
*
*Dual-Link DVI for the oldest models
*Mini DisplayPort on the 15" from late 2008, on the 17" since early 2009
Both can drive a monitor in analog mode (via a VGA port on your monitor) or in digital mode (via a DVI port). Most monitors, except really ancient ones, have both connectors. The quality of the image beeing better with a DVI connection I recommend you go this route.
All monitors are shipped with a DVI/DVI cable, if not go get one at your nearest cheap PC place. For old MacBook Pro that's all you need. For more recent models you need to add a adapter. Apple has one, but I don't like it: It's really short and put pressure on the port when the computer is used on a support. Not to mention ugly. I bought on ebay a 6 foot Mini DisplayPort/DVI cable for cheap, it's all digital so you don't need huge shielding and "super copper wire balanced to give you the best image". Around 10 quids.
Note: Smaller models like the MacBook and the Macbook Air came with different ports: A mini DVI or a micro DVI. For the people reading this with a non "pro" model, make sure you check for those as well...
PS: You can find pictures of the various ports by searching for their names on Wikipedia. I wanted to put the links directly, but apparently I do not have enough reputation to post more than one link:(
A: What MacBook Pro do you have?
Chances are good that all you'll need is:
*
*another monitor
*a Mini DisplayPort adapter cable
If the monitor has DVI in, that adapter needs to be Mini DisplayPort to DVI. If VGA, it needs to be Mini DisplayPort to VGA—and so on. But that should be all you need.
Edited to add:
Apple has some good pages:
*
*Monitor and Display Adapter Table
*How to identify MacBook Pro models
They should help you identify what you have and what you need.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2520",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: How often is Shift, Control, Alt or Command combined with the secondary click? One option I have for activating expose is to combined Shift, Control, Alt or Command with a secondary click. I am wondering if any of these combinations are likely to interfere with any useful commands on the Mac. Do any of these combinations already do anything useful?
A: Interference depends entirely on the application you are in when you use that combination of keys. Based on my experience, the only applications that get into that deep of a combination of keys (shift+control+cmd+[...]) are very robust like those found in Microsoft Office and the Adobe Creative Suite.
A: I've never seen those combos used in a Mac application, and I pay close attention to keyboard/mouse shortcuts. I think you're safe.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2522",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: What does "Sound Check" in iPod settings do? On my iPhone (though I'm sure it's on iPods and iPads as well), under the iPod settings, there's a toggle "Sound Check". What does it do?
A: It enables what basically is just normalization. It scans the library for track volume information, and updates the normalization metadata if necessary. It also honors it, of course.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2525",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: Sync iTunes U between 2 Macs via an iPod Is it possible to download lectures (from iTunes U) with iTunes on Mac A, sync an iPod to Mac A, then carry that iPod to Mac B, and finally watch them on Mac B?
That's what I have been doing with my previous iPod (not an iPod Touch) because it allows me to use it as a USB hard drive. Now that I'm using an iPod Touch (which doesn't allow me to see what's inside), I wonder if I can use syncing to do the same job.
A: Actually, there is a way you can sync your device to more than one iTunes library in different computers. The trick is making the device believe that it is the same library.
Each library has an associated identifier. By modifying one of the libraries and putting the id of the other, you will accomplish that.
In order to do so, select one of the computers, the one that you are currently syncing with, and find out its identifier. Look for a file called iTunes Music Library.xml. In a Mac, this file is in the ~/Music/iTunes directory (though I think it can vary depending on what version of iTunes it was created with). In a PC, I guess it must be somewhere under the My Documents folder.
Open it with a text editor and find out a line which reads like
<key>Library Persistent ID</key><string>XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX</string>
where the XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX will be the identifier for that library.
Now, on the second computer, find out the same file, and, after making a backup (just in case), and making sure iTunes is not running, copy the identifier to a new document, because we'll need it shortly, and then replace it with the identifier from the first computer. Now, we're halfway done. The following step is the difficult one.
With a hex editor (which is an editor that allows editing the bytes of a binary file; my PC using mates recommend Ultraedit, while I on the Mac like HexFiend), open a file called iTunes Library in the same directory (remember, make a backup first), and do a search for the same string (or rather, byte string) that you copied and replace it with the new one from the first computer.
After performing these steps, you should be able to sync both computers with the same device without problems.
A: It won't let you sync, but you should be able to connect the iPod touch to Mac B and still see the iPod under devices in iTunes. If you hit the expansion triangle (twistie? whatever it's called) it should show you the playlists on that iPod and let you play them through iTunes.
A: Syncing an iPod/iPhone to iTunes is a one-to-one relationship between the two. Syncing on iPod with an iTunes install essentially ties it to that iTunes. Syncing later to a different iTunes install invariably results in the "delete all data" dialog.
| {
"language": "en",
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"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: How do I move a contact on the iPhone from one group to another? I have about 20 contacts on my iPhone that is in the wrong group. How can I move them to another group?
A: Orbicontacts worked very well for me, and it is free
A: I have been using Copytrans Contacts - the difference between this app and I would say most of the rest is that:
*
*You can use it to add/edit/remove contact groups on your iPhone via your computer
*
*You can easily move iPhone contacts between groups via drag/drop
A: The Speed Names app will do it. How could they have missed doing this in iOS 5?
All those clever people at Infinite Loop and no one wants to move a contact from one group to another? Or perhaps they have no friends?
A: I had the same problem. I found this page looking or a solution. I wasn't satisfied with the above. So I did the following:
*
*Email the contacts to yourself (share contact).
*In the contacts app, make sure you are in the proper group (for me, my gmail account with exchange)
*Import the contact. It should be adde to the group you selected in the previous step.
*Now go check the contact is in the correct group, and if so, delete the one in the old group.
A: it will work to email yourself the contacts but you need to be sure to first go to the settings menu/mail,contacts,calendar/look down the menu under contacts for default account and set it to exchange. then it will save the contacts you email yourself in exchange.
A: You need to use your AddressBook application for that and sync the iPhone again.
There is no Group support but for reading on iOS.
*
*you can't create groups
*you can't move to and from groups
*you can only create a contact in a group if a group exists
－ Windows user can edit your group through iCloud.com/contacts
A: There are several apps that can do this, for example VisuContacts.
A: ContactMover costs $4.99 and EasyGroup crashes. Though the interface is terrible, HachiContact works and is free. Oh, and it hasn't crashed on me yet.
I've been able to add groups, remove groups, and even move contacts between groups. I still don't understand why this functionality isn't built into the iPhone OS.
A: The [ContactMover][1] iPhone app does this. [1]: http://www.immense.net/contactmover/
A: This is similar to Jason's answer but quicker as it's more integrated.
You'll need two Apple devices (such as an iPhone and an iPad or possibly a Mac). I've gone into details but it's actually easy and reliable.
In the following instructions we'll be moving contact(s) from source group 'A' (selected on the iPhone) to target group 'B' (on the iPad). It doesn't matter which device is used for what role; in the end, both devices can still show contacts from both groups, if so desired.
*
*Ensure iPhone and iPad both have Bluetooth enabled. On both devices go to Settings -> General -> AirDrop and ensure either "Contacts Only" (or "Everyone") is selected.
*iPhone: open Contacts, click on 'Groups' (top left) and select only group 'A'; do the same thing on the iPad but select only group 'B'.
*iPad: go to Settings -> Contacts and make sure group 'B' is set as "Default Account".
*iPhone: select a contact you want to transfer, tap "Share Contact", then select your iPad with the AirDrop symbol (blue circles over white background).
*iPad: click "Save" on the top right hand corner of the contact card that has just appeared.
*(optional but advisable): iPhone, click 'Edit' on top-left of the contact card you have just transferred, scroll to the bottom of the card, press 'Delete' and confirm deletion. If you don't do this, you'll end up with duplicates (one in each group 'A' and 'B').
*Repeat steps 4, 5 and 6 ad nauseam.
Once you're done transferring the contacts, you may re-select the groups you care about in the Contacts app of both devices (step 2). It may also be worth checking that the Default Account (step 3) is set to something sensible on all your devices if you find that new contacts land in the wrong group.
These instructions refer to iOS 15; this likely works similarly on older and newer versions.
A: I am using a free iPhone application to manage groups of contacts.
http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/easy-group/id461469079?l=fr&ls=1&mt=8
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2529",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "38"
} |
Q: Lilliput USB mini Monitor & Mac monitor limit I love the idea of the Lilliput 7" USB mini Monitor (found via the Stack Exchange API Contest).
However, I already have a 'normal' second monitor connected to my Macbook, would the Lilliput break the 2 monitor limit and not work? Or is USB different?
A: I also have a second monitor attached to my MB Pro (big 25" Cinema display), and there's no conflict between it and the Lilliput. However, the only Snow Leopard driver I've found so far is beta, and the Lilliput gets all sqwinched up in portrait mode. Also, haven't found a touch driver yet. :P
Otherwise, works great!
A: Assuming the drivers work/exist as per "Compatible with certain Mac OS X 10.4.11 or later (Intel CPU only), Windows XP, Vista and Windows 7" then "No extra video card required: the Lilliput USB display has a built in video card that runs over any USB 2.0 connection"
It should theoretically become a second or third (Nth) monitor depending how many are already hooked up.
A: MacBooks can drive more than two monitors. The "two monitor limit" is because there is 1 attached to the laptop and 1 additional physical port.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2534",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: How to copy SMS messages from a Nokia phone (or Nokia PC Suite backup) to iPhone? What if I have a Nokia PC Suite backuped file which contains all the SMS and want to copy them to the new iPhone?
A: Please check iNoki at: http://www.nokisoft.com/inoki. It's an iPhone app which can extract and import data in .NBU file created by Nokia PC Suite. All phonebook, sms, calendar, photo, audio, videos can be imported.
AppStore link: http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/inoki/id438619967?ls=1&mt=8
SMS is viewable in iNoki instead of native SMS app - for apple has no official API to insert into native SMS db.
A: I can provide half an answer. I'm not sure how to get the SMS out of the Nokia backup, but you won't be able to copy them to the new iPhone directly. You'll need to write a script to translate them to the iPhone format. I provide instructions below how to reverse engineer the iPhone SMS DB.
The iPhone SMS DB is sqlite3. If your iPhone is jailbroken, you can get and view the DB on the phone itself (install terminal) or on your desktop:
# get it local
scp iphone:/var/mobile/Library/SMS/sms.db ./
# dump to ASCII
sqlite3 sms.db .dump > sms.db.sql
# edit it
emacs sms.db.sql
# Re-db
cat sms.db.sql | sqlite3 sms2.db;
# Put it back on the iPhone
scp sms2.db iphone:/var/mobile/Library/SMS/sms.db
If your phone is not jailbroken, you can operate on the backup up SMS DB, replace the backup locally and then restore the iPhone. The backup is located in:
~/Library/Application Support/MobileSync/Backup/<long_hex_string>/
And, in my case, and according to various web sources, is named:
3d0d7e5fb2ce288813306e4d4636395e047a3d28
Although comments below indicate that may not always be the name of the file. Run the sqlite3 command above to dump this to ASCII to understand the format, then replicate this format with whatever tools you want from your Nokia DB.
*
*Here are some instructions on how to migrate your SMS in the reverse direction for Android: http://android.riteshsahu.com/tips/import-sms-iphone-android
*An iPhone database extractor: http://insend.de/
A: The program inoki has marketing material that shows it might work for your problem:
*
*You can copy the .NBU files to iNoki's folder using iTunes file sharing. You can also invoke iNoki to open the .NBU file from Email or in your Dropbox.
*
*
*you could find details at http://www.nokisoft.com/inoki/
Declaration : I do not guarantee success for this process as I am not the owner and I do not have relations to this website.
I'm only answering thi question because I have had a hard time looking for the solution to this myself. The free version probably won't work other than to see if it can get a few records as there is alsoo a paid version that costs USD19.99 through the APPSTORE ishttp://itunes.apple.com/us/app/inoki-lite/id461608906?mt=8
A: Though its difficult method, I just want you to know it exists in the worst case. You can also do it manually by exporting the messages from C:\Users[USERNAME]\AppData\Local\Nokia\Nokia Suite (the name of the db might be like sms_db.sqlite). There are many tools to read SQLite db like MesaSQLite for Mac and a firefox plugin for Firefox browser.
Then using the same tool import it into the iPhone SMS DB.
I have already written how to deal with iPhone SMS DB here
| {
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Q: Create a bookmark to a webpage through non safari browser? Is it possible to create a shortcut or bookmark to a webpage directly from an iPad's main page
which opens in a non-Safari browser.
i.e. Readledocs or GoodBooks?
A: As I know, now there is no way to do this
| {
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Q: Can I manually re-calibrate the iPhone 4 compass? My iPhone 4's compass is off to a significant enough degree that it's annoying... is there any way to manually re-calibrate the compass?
I have, of course, done the "figure 8" (whatever action that was supposed to elicit) when I first set up the phone, and again whenever the phone prompts me to (which is very rare). What I'm looking for is a setting/menu/option by which I can call up that re-calibration interface, instead of waiting for it to prompt me.
A: There is no setting in the standard iOS that allows this. The easiest way to bring that recalibration screen back up is to briefly put a magnet near your phone.
A: Update:
You don't need to wait to be prompted to do the "figure eight thing". You can do it any time to recalibrate the compass.
The compass is really sensitive to outside influences. For example it is useless in my girlfriends BMW. It is consistently off by 135 degrees and doing the figure 8 doesn't make any difference. It's more of a toy than something you would want to depend on.
A: It may be better to get the real compass and not depend on smart phones. This is because all smart phones (iPhone, Samsungs, and others) all have same issue.
| {
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Q: How can I run an application full screen on a second screen? I want to run games on my additional screen, how can I do this? By default they run on the built-it screen.
I'm using a MacBook Pro running Snow Leopard.
A: Real FullScreen applications will normally run on the Primary Display and they will rarely allow you to configure that. Some applications, however, are running in a “false” full screen, and are just “maximized” applications on top of everything, including the dock and the MenuBar. Some of the latter can be moved by applications like SizeUp and similar (note the usage of the word ‘some’).
In order to change what your primary display is, you have to go to System Preferences -> Display and the click on the “Arrangement” Tab. And then you have to click and drag the white menubar to the display you want to make primary. Take a look at the attached picture. Remember you have to click on the white square representing the Menu Bar and drag it to the other.
The consequences of doing that is that your Dock and your Menu Bar will be moved onto the other Display.
A: use your external monitor as main
apple-> system Preferences-> Displays
Make sure red border pointed to external monitor
and you should good to go:)
| {
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Q: What's the proper way to pronounce "Mac OS X"? I was inspired by the question Mac or Macintosh.
What's the proper way to pronounce "Mac OS X"? I've heard the following things used to refer to the operating system on the Macintosh:
*
*"Mac OS Ten" ("OS" is said like "AHSS")
*"Mac OS Ex" ("OS" is said like "AHSS")
*"Mac Oh-Ess Ex"
*"Mac Oh-Ess Ten"
*"Darwin" (People use this to refer to the operating system. Is this correct?)
A: Try typing
say Mac OS X
in Terminal. You'll hear what Apple thinks about it.
Hint: It's "mac oh es ten"
A: According to Apple
The current version of Mac OS is Mac OS X (pronounced "Mac O-S ten"). ... . Major releases of Mac OS X include versions 10.0, 10.3, and 10.4. There are also updates (sometimes called "dot" releases) for each major release, such as versions 10.2.8 and 10.4.2.
This does present a problem because it isn't correct to write Mac OS X.6. All references to Mac OS X 10.6, are easier to pronounce as "Oh Ess [Ex] ten dot/point six," rather than saying, "ten," twice.
As for Darwin,
The Darwin layer of Mac OS X comprises the kernel, drivers, and BSD portions of the system [...]. Mac OS X extends this low-level environment with several core infrastructure technologies that make it easier for you to develop software.
Apple purchased NeXT for their XNU kernel, which is a hybrid kernel forked from CMU's Mach microkernel. BSD is an implementation of Unix originally released through UC Berkley. Aqua is the rendering engine for the user interface. The Apple Finder is a system application that always runs for user access to files and the desktop. OS X is the sum of these and other parts.
A: starting with mountain lion it's no longer "mac os x"
it will be just "OS X" pronounced o s ten.
A: From: http://support.apple.com/kb/TA22541
The current version of Mac OS is Mac OS X (pronounced "Mac O-S ten")
A: Mac Oh-Ess Ten
"Darwin" (People use this to refer to the operating system. Is this correct?)
Only partially. Darwin is the open-source unix-derived foundation of the operating system upon which GUI-goodness, frameworks, application environments, core services and other proprietary bells and whistles are laid.
A: They call it Macaussexx on the Dev Show (it's a joke though).
A: I know what it's supposed to be, but every time I speak it, it comes out of my mouth like "Mac Oh-Ess Ecks".
A: Apple uses different names for different versions of the Mac operating system, as well as gradually migrating from version number to preferring version names. The Apple Style Guide shows how to write them, but not how to pronounce them. Combining that with various other sources, I get:
*
*10.0 through 10.7: Write "Mac OS X", and pronounce it "Mac O-S ten" (source, from SpecKK's answer). Include the version number only, as in "Mac OS X 10.7" (presumably pronounced "Mac O-S ten ten point seven").
*10.8 through 10.11: Write "OS X", and pronounce it "O-S ten" (source: Craig Federighi). Use the code name, version number, or both, as in "OS X El Capitan 10.11" (pronounced "O-S ten El Capitan ten point eleven").
*10.12 or later (at least through 11.2): Write "macOS", and pronounce it "mac O-S" (source: Craig again). Again, use the code name, version number, or both, as in "macOS Sierra 10.12" (pronounced "mac O-S Sierra ten point twelve").
A: Part of me asks "How is this even a real question or up for debate*?", but of course the confusion was set in prior versions of Mac OS 8 and 9 have one obvious pronunciation.
The way that Apple Employees pronounce (and nearly all Mac fans agree) is that the X represents 10 exclusively and should not be spoken or expanded into the letter "X"
Mac Oh Es Ten
* That were actually labelled as Mac OS 8 & 9 and not as Mac OS IX & Mac OS XIII. Perhaps that is one reason there is a debate. Also, the infrequent use of Roman numbers in applications apart from clock faces. Perhaps the Mac OS X brand was in reference to the X "hipness" of Next and Unix as Apple replaced their previous OS architecture with one based on Next/Unix heritage.
A: When I was a kid developer, we were still using latin numerals so it wasn't hard to see OS 9 moving aside for OS X pronounced "Ten" but with a latin numeral "X" to honor the new Unix core.
| {
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Q: How can I check via software if my iPhone is unlocked? I have a carrier-unlockable iPhone. That means they sell it locked but will unlocked upon request.
As is generally the case with carriers, mine is a sack of incompetence. I requested the unlock and got many different responses and directionless guidance in the process. I have reason to believe it may be the case that they did attempt to unlock it at some point.
I'd like to know how I can check wether my device is still carrier-locked or not.
I'm on a Mac, and I'm enrolled in the iPhone developer program. It would be of more general use to have an answer that doesn't depend on the latter, tho.
While "just pop in a SIM card from another carrier" is a technically feasible answer, I'd rather have one that doesn't involve my getting off my chair.
A: So in the end I had to do the SIM card dance.
In fact, it seems what the carrier does is mark your phone as allowed for unlock.
Then, the first time you put a SIM card from another carrier, you must connect to iTunes, which will then perform a series of annoyances and alerts and whatnot, and only then your device will be truly unlocked. You need an internet connection for this process.
I know this is a terrible answer to my own question.
A: As far as I can tell there's only two was to do this:
*
*Put a SIM card in from another network.
*Call your operator and trust their answer.
The Google doesn't offer much more help than this either.
A: How many Apple devices do you have? If you have 100+ iOS devices or 50+ Macs you can apple for an Apple Direct Service account which would give you access to GSX (Apple's service platform for 3rd parties) to check the activation profile (and whether it's locked or not) of iOS devices. It even comes with an API.
Apart from that, no. There isn't a way to determine in with software only.
A: Check (1P) Part No. on the box
Locked
Germany - T-Mobile
MC603DN/A – 16GB Black
MC605DN/A – 32GB Black
Japan - Softbank
MC603J/A - 16GB Black
MC605J/A - 32GB Black
Spain - Movistar, Orange, Vodafone
MC603Y/A – 16GB Black
MC605Y/A – 32GB Black
United States - AT&T
MC608LL/A - 16GB Black
MC610LL/A - 32GB Black
Apple
MC318LL/A - 16GB Black
MC319LL/A - 32GB Black
Unlocked
Australia
MC603X/A - 16GB Black
MC605X/A - 32GB Black
Canada
MC603C/A - 16GB Black
MC605C/A - 32GB Black
France
MC603FB/A - 16GB Black
MC605FB/A - 32GB Black
Hong Kong
MC605ZP/A - 32GB Black
MC603ZP/A - 16GB Black
Italy
MC603IP/A - 16GB Black
MC605IP/A - 32GB Black
New Zealand
MC603X/A - 16GB Black
MC605X/A - 32GB Black
Singapore
MC603ZA/A - 16GB Black
MC605ZA/A - 32GB Black
Sweden
MC603KS/A – 16GB Black
MC605KS/A – 32GB Black
United Kingdom
MC603B/A - 16GB Black
MC605B/A - 32GB Black
A: Now there are online portals which tell you if your iPhone is locked or unlocked that too for free. All you need is to put your IMEI number and check for details. One such place to find the status is http://iosbasics.com/iphone-operator-check
| {
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Q: Is there a way to export my highlighted bookmarks in iBooks? I don't see any native functionality to export highlighted notes made from within iBooks
Is there a third-party tool that will allow this?
A: yes there is, if you have a mac.
Get iExplorer here
http://www.macroplant.com/iexplorer/
plug in your iOS device and use iExplorer to
look in the books file and drag the following files to your desktop.
iBooks.plist and iBooksData2.plist
and this app
https://github.com/lgoss007/BookmarkExtractor
put the files in the appropriate spot and you can get your highlights
A: Sorry, but (at least currently) there's no way to do this.
A: 3rd party app Digested - does exactly what you need: "Quickly import bookmarks and notes from iBooks on iPhone, iPod, iPad, export to PDF and Evernote..."
A: You can do this on a per-book basis from within iBooks:
*
*Open the book
*Press the "list button" to bring up the Table of Contents
*Switch to the Notes tab
*Press the Share button
*Select Edit Notes
*Select All
*Share via email or some other app.
See this other question for how to do it on macOS.
| {
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Q: Where is the terminal application on the filesystem? I want to be able to launch a Terminal window using JiTouch, which allows me to make a gesture open a file, so I want to know the location of the Terminal app so that I can open it.
A: In macOS 10.15 Catalina, I found it in:
/System/Applications/Utilities/Terminal.app
This is how I found it:
*
*open Spotlight (Cmd+Space)
*type: Terminal (typing the full name ensures it's the first search result at the top)
*if not already selected, select (single-click) the Terminal.app found by Spotlight (should the first one in the list), after the app is selected, press the Cmd key, while holding that key the full path will be shown in the bottom-right corner of Spotlight
*alternatively continue with the following steps: hold the Cmd key, then hit the Enter key or double-click on the Terminal.app found by Spotlight
*that will open Finder and highlight Terminal.app
*if you drag Terminal.app into a text file, another terminal, or even a browser URL bar, it will show you the full path
(Funny enough, if you right-click and choose Get Info, it will show you as if it's actually just in /Applications/Utilities, e.g. without /System).
The difference between the two paths is significant when used in a shell or (I assume) programmatically, for example:
~ % file /Applications/Utilities/Terminal.app
/Applications/Utilities/Terminal.app: cannot open '/Applications/Utilities/Terminal.app' (No such file or directory)
~ %
~ % file /System/Applications/Utilities/Terminal.app
/System/Applications/Utilities/Terminal.app: directory
A: Is this all you want?
/Applications/Utilities/Terminal.app
| {
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Q: Unhide dock when key pressed I am currently hiding my dock. I would like to unhide it whenever a the fn key is pressed. Is this possible?
A: You can assign that fn to show/hide dock in Keyboard shortcuts, but you will override the original fn key.
Or you can create a Service in Automator that act upon a keystroke
use this action pack to act upon key and do what you want building up your workflow.
A: The fn key is a modifier key that lets you use a software function key F1-F19 when held down, instead of the built-in hardware F key functions (brightness, volume, etc.)
So it's not possible to use that particular key on its own as a keyboard shortcut, just as it's not possible to use the shift key on its own.
The best you can do is set the shortcut to F13 using System Preferences > Keyboard > Keyboard shortcuts, which on my particular keyboard is just above the fn key…
| {
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Q: Upgrade time machine storage? I'm going to buy 2T external HDD to replace my already full 1T HDD external. I want to keep the time machine backup data. In this case, is it just OK to copy all the time machine backup data in 1T HDD to 2T HDD?
A: I know this might be old, but here are the right steps to perform a Time Machine hard drive replacement preserving old backups, without having to use CCC or SuperDuper! (which I love, but are not needed).
I have a Mac Pro so to make things more complicated I added Two drives and created a RAID-1 (Mirror); once the mirror was working, I proceeded with these steps (sans the “plug drive”) ;)
The above comment is to demonstrate that the volume composition doesn’t affect this.
Like with any other Hard Drive operation, always make sure you have a backup or a way to restore your information in case something goes wrong. Read before you click “ok”. Use common sense and be careful.
You need to be familiar with Disk Utility (located in /Applications/Utilities/Disk Utility.app). It’s a very simple and straightforward application, but also very dangerous if you go coo coo and start clicking things without reading.
TIME MACHINE HARD DRIVE MIGRATION TO A NEW DRIVE PRESERVING BACKUP HISTORY
*
*Plug your new (presumably bigger) drive. Using Disk Utility, create the HFS+ Journaled partition (make sure you use GUID to avoid problems). Give it a name like: NewTM (you can change that later). (This may be obvious but if you have a Mac Pro, turn it off before inserting the drives…)
*Open the Time Machine configuration and turn off Time Machine.
*Unmount the Time Machine drive (the ‘old’) and mount it again. This causes the drive to be mounted as a regular drive and not have the “Time Machine” Green Icon. (This is important). You can do that from Disk Utility.
*Now go back to Disk Utility (/Applications/Utilities/Disk Utility.app) and click on the restore tab.
*You will see two boxes to type, but you can also drag and drop, so drag the “TimeMachine” (old) to the source box (the upper one).
*Drag the new “NewTM” partition to the target box (lower one).
*IMPORTANT: select “Erase Destination” so there’s a block level copy.
*Click restore and make sure that you have the right partitions (i.e.: read what you are being shown in the popup, it’s your last chance or you could erase your data.) When you’re satisfied, click ok to the popup and go cook. My 750gb took over four hours (and it was a SATA drive). Consider that USB drives (and even Firewire 800) are slower than any SATA internal drive. Some people reports this to take over five hours over USB for much smaller drives, so be patient.
Here’s how mine looked:
If everything went right, you should see two identical drives on your desktop, that is because the old drive was “fully duplicated” in the new one. The difference should be the free space, the new one should have more (if you are using a larger drive of course).
We’re almost done, but we need to activate Time Machine again.
*Unmount the old Time Machine drive. If you are unsure which one it is, check the free space and/or physically disconnect it; don’t worry, you’ll be able to use it again soon.
*Open the TimeMachine configuration screen again and press Change Drive. Select the new one (should be the only one called Time Machine). The disk should now turn “green” with the Time Machine icon. Congratulations, you’ve migrated your Time Machine.
What now?
Test it. Use Time machine to see if your files are there, recover some old files to see if they come, make sure everything is ok, you can reconnect your old drive and format it, or use it for furniture if you want.
If you previously had Spotlight configured to exclude your Time Machine, you might want to make sure that everything is ok. Maybe you’ll have to drag the Time Machine drive again. Just check it.
And that’s all. I hope you don’t destroy your data in the process. I came up with these steps by googling, experimenting and using common sense :) Hope it helps.
A: I did some searching and found this (the caveat being that this applies to 10.5):
Using the Restore feature in Disk Utility, you can "restore" the Time Machine disk to another disk and retain the history of changes. This could be useful if you've outgrown your Time Machine backup drive, and want to migrate your existing backups to a new, larger drive. You should turn Time Machine off before doing starting this process, of course.
Be aware that the disks will have the same name and information, so it might confuse Time Machine. For example, after I activated Time Machine on the newly-created disk, I plugged in the old disk, and it showed up as a Time Machine drive, but the backup failed. It's probably best to avoid having both of them plugged in. At the very least, rename one of them.
Perhaps more importantly, Carbon Copy Cloner 2.3 doesn't work correctly for cloning a Time Machine drive (I don't know about 3.x), as it doesn't copy hard links but rather, copies what the links point to. This results in a lot of copies of your system when the Time Machine database has been around for a while.
The common suggestion from that thread is for CCC is to a block-to-block copy of the old disk to the new disk.
A: SuperDuper! works fine for me. I just changed my Time Machine disk last week and history is still there.
A: I think if you do 2 below steps can do it:
*
*Turn Time Machine off before copy all time machine back up data to new HDD.
*Your new disk should have the same name(information) of old disk.
but general solution is to use Carbon Copy Cloner but somewhere I read that this was not work properly.
| {
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Q: Is there a QuickLook app that will highlight search terms within MS Word documents? I have a client with a large number of Word documents that he needs to be able to search. He's been using Spotlight and Quick Look, which has worked pretty well.
He asked me if there was a way to have the Quick Look image automatically highlight the search terms within the Quick Look preview.
I've been googling for a Quick Look plugin, but I haven't found one?
Does anyone here know of something like this?
A: This would require you to be able to pass parameters into Quicklook (the spotlight search terms) which I don't think is possible. You might be able to do this with Automator and a folder action.
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Q: Convert MKV to AVI What's the best solution to convert .mkv files to .avi ?
A: Try Any Video Coverter (Free Software)
Also you can download and add codec for extra format like WMA and RealVideo.
A: if you want to see this Videos on your Apple Mobile Devices (iPod Touch, iPhone or iPad) I would strongly suggest that you get your hands on Air Video
Then, download and install in your Windows or Mac the free server application and tell it to "see" all folders you have videos on.
you can now access from your mobile devices, all Videos ad if you have a good Dual Core 2 (or up) CPU in the machine you installed the "Server", you can see all videos with their "Live Conversion", in other words, you can see them 5 seconds after you tap PLAY, instead waiting for the conversion is ready.
pressing the Add to iTunes, it will convert and add to your iTunes list directly (if you want to see "offline" / not in the same WiFi as your server)
give it a try!
examples:
P.S. if you only wish to convert videos and add them into your iTunes list, just use the free Server Application, no need to have the AirVideo App, this is only required if you want to watch the videos on your devices.
A: How about Quicktime 7 Pro? Especially if you already have it...
A: MPEG Streamclip
My go-to application for all video conversion. I would highly recommend MPEG Streamclip. It should be able to handle what you want to do. And...it's free!
| {
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Q: Is there anywhere I can get a complete list of historical Safari release notes? I’ve done a bit of searching for specific Safari version numbers in support.apple.com. Quite a few versions have specific change notes, but it seems like often the versions bundled with major OS X releases aren’t given their own change notes.
*
*1.0: http://support.apple.com/kb/ht2964
*
*1.2: http://support.apple.com/kb/DL612 (Dave Hyatt also provided some more detailed notes on the old WebKit blog: http://weblogs.mozillazine.org/hyatt/archives/2004_02.html#004874)
*1.3.1: http://support.apple.com/kb/DL445
*1.3.2: http://support.apple.com/kb/DL403
*2.0.1: http://support.apple.com/kb/DL444
*3.1: http://support.apple.com/kb/TA25197?viewlocale=en_US
*
*3.1.1: http://support.apple.com/kb/DL78
*3.2.1: http://support.apple.com/kb/DL723
*3.2.3: http://support.apple.com/kb/DL820
*4.0.5: http://support.apple.com/kb/DL877
*
*4.1: http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1045
*4.1.2: http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1069
*5.0: http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1046
*
*5.0.2: http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1070
Also, sometimes Apple’s release notes can be a bit... terse.
I’m trying to figure out which versions of Safari introduced support for HTML5/CSS features.
Wikipedia’s got a great table of releases, but it is a bit vague on CSS improvements (e.g. “improved CSS support”).
A: Safari uses Webkit as it's rendering engine. If you're specifically looking for when it began to support HTML5/CSS3, it as a fully open-source repository where you can review changes commit by commit. As such, you can see the full comprehensive, intricately detailed history here: http://trac.webkit.org/timeline
A: The Wapedia table you point to appears to just be a less clear version of the Safari version history page on Wikipedia.
This particular search on "When can I use…" appears to display much of what you're looking for.
This page at findmebyip.com also has a good breakdown, although it's not as specific about particular browser versions.
A: This website may help you:
http://caniuse.com/
| {
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Q: Printers that Work With Mac OS X? I'm planning to purchase a printer + scanner soon and want to have one that will be able to work with Mac, as well as Windows machines. I am hoping for one that will have a wireless printing/scanning feature.
There are certain types of printers that I heard that work with Macs, but I'm not sure what differentiates them from other normal printers.
What's the difference?
A: Printers are easy, they mostly all work with Macs. Scanners are another story, and drivers for those used to be complex to find and use.
However 10.6 introduced far better support for scanners and a number of those now work just out of the box. I recommend you go for one listed as compatible if possible as an Apple maintained driver is more likely to keep working when you upgrade.
You can find the list of all printers and scanners supported out-of-the-box by Mac OS X 10.6 in this knowledge base entry.
A: Drivers.
The printers that will work with Mac will have OS X drivers. These days, it's rare to find a printer without a driver available.
I would start here:
http://www.macworld.com/products/printers.html
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2584",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Which ebook format do books from the iBooks Store use? What is the format of ebooks that the iBooks uses that allows page turning, white on black text, etc.? (I.e., the books you get from the store.)
A: Books sold by the iBookstore are in ePub format with a FairPlay DRM wrapper.
A: ePub, of course, is a supported format. Other supported formats are:
*
*ePub
*ePub with DRM
*PDF
*iBooks (Generated by iBooks Author)
Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IBooks#Formats
The iBooks app itself supports the same formats (from the iBooks FAQ):
iBooks supports the industry-leading ePub digital book file type. You can sync freely available ePub files to iBooks using iTunes, or purchase or download books from the iBookstore. iBooks also supports PDFs, which can be manually synced to iBooks. In addition to ePub and PDFs, iBooks 2.0 and later also provides support for the new iBooks format used in iBooks Author. Other digital book file types are not supported at this time.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2586",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: What ebook formats does iBooks support? What file formats of ebooks does iBooks support?
A: It supports ePub and PDF formats.
To import those formats you will need to add the ebook to iTunes and then either select automatic synchronization or drag them across manually and they will be added to your iBooks on the next sync.
If you have Dropbox for iOS you can also add files directly to iBooks from there.
A: iBooks supports the ePub file format, iBooks Author books, PDFs, MP3 audiobooks, AAC audiobooks, and Audible.com audiobooks.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2587",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "10"
} |
Q: Create new file from contextual menu Is there a program I can download to add an option to create a new file to the contextual menu of finder? NuFile doesn't seem to work in Snow Leopard.
A: If you are happy using a toolbar button instead of the contextual menu, you can use New Text File Here from Jonas Wisser. Just drop it into Finder's toolbar.
Note: As of OS X 10.11.4 this program no longer seems to be working.
A: Path Finder also adds a contextual option for creating new files, but it's shareware. Lots of other cool feature though.
A: New File Applescript with Toolbar Icon
Found this open source gem. Can either use the .App or add the Applescript manually. Will add a New File widget to the Finder toolbar.
A: This also works pretty well if you're willing to spend a bit of money:
https://langui.net/new-file-menu/
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2589",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "9"
} |
Q: How do I identify a MacBook Pro from its serial number? This article on identifying a MacBook Pro lists the serial number as one method of identifying it. However, the article it links to, doesn't explain how to identify it either. How can I identify a Macbook Pro from its serial number.
A: You can enter the serial number in Apple's Warranty coverage checker (if you don't remember the URL, there's a link to it in the "AppleCare and warranty" section of Apple's main support page. It'll tell you the model name, as well as the warranty status.
A: EveryMac has a serial number identification tool as well:
http://www.everymac.com/mac-identification/index-how-to-identify-my-mac.html
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2591",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: How can I increase the time before my external drive powers down? I have an external USB drive from LaCie that is connected to my MacBook Pro – almost all the time. So whenever I don't use it for a few minutes, it powers down. That means, it takes a few seconds to spin the disk up again if I need it.
Sometimes, other applications wake the drive up even when I don't want to, causing the applications to hang (i.e. wait for the drive).
How can I increase the time before the external drive powers down?
A:
Cocktail is an award winning general purpose utility for Mac OS X
This app does exactly what you are after (plus much much more), but it will set you back $15.
Alternatively, the command pmset appears to do this as well, but without the fancy GUI. For example pmset -c disksleep 60 will prevent all disks from spinning down within 60 minutes of activity when plugged in. You can change the -c part to specify a different power condition:
The -a, -b, -c, -u flags determine whether the settings apply to battery
( -b ), charger (wall power) ( -c ), UPS ( -u ) or all ( -a )
A: Keep Drive Spinning is a free alternative that does what you want.
A: The externals sleep routine is set by the drive's firmware. A few can respond to Energy Saver/Cocktail/pmset settings, most cannot. The only way to keep a drive is to have an app/script write to it at intervals. The video editing folks need this and their forums are where to look for answers.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2593",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: Need some suggestions setting up a Mac Mini I recently got a Mac from a friend. All it has is a power cable and a cable to connect it to the monitor. On the back, it says Mac mini 2.0/2x512/120 so I'm guessing that's 1 GB RAM, and 120 GB hard drive.
I was wondering what all I can upgrade in this Mac mini. All I've heard about this model is that it is the older mini version and replacing the RAM will be tough. Any suggestions? I'm looking for RAM+HDD+Keyboard and a Mouse in the most economical margins.
A: Firstly, WELCOME to Apple world :)
Now, this is not that hard, and you should think it's quite easy.
if you never worked on a Mac before, you should invest some minutes to see some basic stuff, how it used to work on Windows and how it does now on Mac, for example, take some nice video tutorials from Apple website
go to Apple.com -> click on Mac -> down there there is several video tutorials, see some.
Regarding UPGRADING your Mac Mini, you should check what model you have and have a look on MacSales Videos on how to replace the hardware
you will find all models in the Mac Sales Tech Support page
About what hardware you should fit into your new Mac Mini, using Mac Sales you can order the memory, harddrive (or SSD) and any Optical drive as well, if you outside US, (though I'm in Denmark, I buy stuff from them time to time) you grab the model number of what you wanted, and "fly" to a near store and buy it :)
I hope it helps.
Warning
You are trying to buy 8Gb of Ram, and your mac only support up to 4Gb, in witch 3Gb is addressable.
Please read the specifications of your model before you buy anything!
A: For discs I would not install inside but add a firewire external disk (your mini has FW 400). It might even run faster than the internal.
For memory I would get third party but see video tutorials on how to do it
To find the memory you need to know which mini you have info See on Apple's site support.apple.com/specs/#macmini enter the mini's serial number to get the correct one. I think from your comments(the disc size) it is 2007 or early 2009 - that does not take the memory you are looking at
For memory from crucial use their Crucial Memory Advisor tool and choose the correct version of the hardware
For mice, keyboards etc any USB one will do
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2597",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: iTunes U with non-Apple devices Is it possible to sync iTunes U feeds with non-Apple devices?
A: If you download classes from iTunes U, there are stored on your computer hard drive. Then You can handle those files to be sync with the device you think about, with the tool you uselaly use... There no big difference.
A: Isyncr allows syncing of iTunes (including iTunes U) with Android
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2598",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: How do I change the Icon for a USB device? My phone uses a standard icon when mounted. I just want to replace that icon with a custom one.
I'm opening a PNG image in Preview and copying the image, then pasting onto the icon in the Get Info window, but I get the system PNG icon instead of the image itself:
How do you use a custom image? OSX gives you no feedback on this at all.
Update: After some further investigation, it appears that the image is being set correctly in .VolumeIcons.icns
So for whatever reason, Finder is refusing to display it correctly. Is there some kind of icon format requirement that Finder isn't telling me?
Update: Now the cut-n-paste method works fine. I have not changed anything, so I have no idea what was wrong before. I can only chalk this up to a Finder bug.
A: just drag and drop :)
sometimes it does not work so, you do a simple:
*
*COPY: copy to clipboard the icon you want to use
*SELECT: select the icon you want to remove
*PASTE: paste it
A: Also you can use DiskUtility with Repair disk for USB memory.
Icon appears correctly.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2599",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Is there an iPhone 4 car kit for charging, music, and hands-free calls? Is there an iPhone 4 compatible Car Kit which supports charging, playing Music through the car stereo + Hands Free Calls?
I've looked at a few kits, eg from Parrot but not many (if any?) seems to be iPhone 4/iOS4 compatible?
I currently have my iPhone plugged into my stereo, but since I upgraded to iPhone it no longer charges which is why I need to upgrade.
Any suggestions welcome
A: If you already happy with your connection and the only main problem is the Not Charging part, I would strongly suggest that you contact the creators of your connector and ask for an upgrade as it is a simple power problem as the new iPhone 4 needs different Amps to charge correctly.
If you want a new connection, I know Dension is very good on this and integrates well with several brands of vehicles so you can use your radio to also see music details.
A: I have used this gadget very successfully: http://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Bluetooth-Hands-free-Transmitter-supported/dp/B000NVYVRO
Its a bluetooth A2DP hands free set and also has a USB port for charging your phone
A: ProClip has various solutions with cables, connectors, and specific car mounts. I've tried many of them, but use a TomTom car kit for navigation. But based on my experience ProClip is one of the best solution on the market today, with one minus: the price.
A: RoadTune Universal Hands-free Car Kit with FM Transmitter features a 1 Amp USB Car Charger and FM Transmitter which enables you to wirelessly transmit music and hands-free calls from your iPhone through your car's stereo system.
See also this video overview.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2609",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How can I boot in "Safe Mode" with rEFIt I would like to boot safe mode but I can't because of my rEFIt.
Holding the Shift button at startup has no effect, I just get the rEFIt menu and OSX starts to boot normally.
any ideas how to do it?
A: The question on this page appears to be the same issue. Someone responded with a detailed solution, which might work for you as well.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2610",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Scanning a ton of pictures I'm rather disappointed that iPhoto has no direct ability to import from a scanner. I'm reduced to scanning in Preview, which has a less awful UI for scanning than the program that came with my HP scanner, and dragging the resulting files into iPhoto.
Is there some better scheme that I've missed?
A: Send the photos to a scanning service, especially if you have "tons".
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2613",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Is there a way to change iPhone backup location? I don't have enough disk space on my PC to store whatever is backed up by iPhone. Is there a way to change location to where iPhone backs up the data? I want to back it up to my external hard drive.
A: It looks like you can if using Windows.
Is OS X the backups seems to be stored in the following location ...
~/Library/Application Support/MobileSync/Backup
... but I don't think you can change that location.
A: You can, however, drop a copy of that folder to your external drive - or include that folder in whatever backup/clone app you're using.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2614",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Change search Google in Safari to use Firefox Cmd+Shift+L searches for the selected text in Google using Safari. Can I change this to use Firefox instead?
A: You can create a new service with automator, use the "Run Shell Script" action, and use:
open -a FireFox "http://www.google.com/search?q=$1"
as the shell script text, then save it as "Open with Firefox" or whatever you like.
-or-
follow this summary from this thread:
*
*Download and Install OnMyCommand/OMCEdit
*Open OMCEdit
*Click on "Download Commands" then "Download"
*Go in "Command Library"
*Choose #22 and click on "Append to Command"
*Change the name if you want (in "Command Name")
*Write " Top Level " in location if you don't want a sub-menu, or choose a name for the sub-menu ("In On My Command" is the default)
*Save
*You're done!
A: What you need to do is create a new Automator service. Unfortunately, Firefox's AppleScript support sucks, so you'll have to do it manually.
You should be able to use a combination of the tips in this article and this comment, and the page Calavera linked to should give you a general idea of how to format the URLs.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2622",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Do iPhones fully sync with Google services and other Web apps? I'm looking for a smartphone: either an iPhone or an Android. Here are my requirements:
*
*Contacts must fully sync with Google Contacts. That means that whenever I add a contact in Gmail, it must show up automatically in the phone's contacts. The reverse must be true as well.
*Calendar must fully sync with Google Calendar.
*Access Google Docs easily, preferably without third-party apps.
*An app that makes use of Google maps for navigation.
*Good support for Chinese input software, including both pinyin and handwriting.
In short, I want a small device that allows me to access the Internet in any way at any time (I will get a phone plan that includes unlimited Internet access). All the data should be stored in the cloud rather than on the local device.
Can an iPhone do all the above? Or is an Android a better choice because the OS is done by Google?
Edit:
Another issue: how good is the iPhone's hardware? The hardware on my last smartphone (a Dopod with Win Mobile 5) fell apart ( both in terms of speed and hardware) after a year of use. Do iPhones have similar problems?
A: I have an iPhone 4. I love it. Google has a sync service for iPhone which will do #1 and #2. Your desire #3 is easily done through the browser. There's a built-in google maps app to fulfill your wish #4.
So, the iPhone can do what you want.
That said, it sounds like you want an Android.
EDIT, since you asked about hardware
After over 2 years of use, most of it without a case, except for a few minor scratches my iPhone 3G is fine. The only thing even close to degradation is a barely noticeable "stickiness" to the front main button.
My new iPhone 4 seems just as solidly built. I can't imagine these things falling apart without some sort of abuse.
A: I own both an iPhone 4 and a Nexus One.
iPhone
*
*Syncs with Google Contacts via the Address Book. You can set this option in iTunesitem
*Syncs with Google Calendar via iCal. You can set this option in iTunes
*You can access Google Docs through the
browser now that they support native
iPhone & iPad browsing. 3rd partyapps
provide a better experience
*There is a built in Maps application that does Google Maps well. No turn by turn navigation however.
*Not sure about Chinese input support
Note: Contacts/Calendar/Mail can all be synced to Google if you setup your account as an Exchange account. This is very simple to do.
Android
Syncs with Google Services right off the bat. I noticed the "experience" on the iPhone is richer.
It is up to you whether or not you prefer features, to user experience.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2624",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Can a Mac Pro drive more than 2 monitors? I have 3 Monitors which I would like to drive off a Mac Pro (that is not bought yet). The Monitors don't have DisplayPort though (and I had not much luck with the $100 adapters).
All 3 have DVI and 2 have HDMI as well (running at 2048x1152).
Would I have to get a configuration with 2x Radeon 5770? Can I use a Mini-DP-HDMI Adapter on it? (I successfully drive one of them on a MacBook Pro, I just don't know if the Mac Pro's 5770 are special)
A: If you look at the Apple Store page for buying a Mac Pro, you'll see it comes with the ATI Radeon HD 5770 1GB.
Under "Second Display," it says:
All Mac Pro graphics cards support up to three displays: two using Mini DisplayPort and one using DVI.
Under "Graphics," it says:
Configure your Mac Pro with two cards to power up to six displays simultaneously for visualization projects and large display walls.
If you click on the "Learn more" link under Graphics, it says:
ATI Radeon HD 5770
Ideal for motion graphics, 3D modeling, rendering, or animation, the ATI Radeon HD 5770 with 1GB of fast GDDR5 memory comes standard — and provides up to 5x more performance than previous Mac Pro standard graphics cards. It also includes two Mini DisplayPort outputs and a dual-link DVI port.
and
Dual-display and triple-display modes
Both ATI Radeon HD cards each have two Mini DisplayPort outputs and one dual-link DVI output for a total of three video ports. All three ports are available for simultaneous use, depending upon the type of connection…
Note: If you are using more than one Mini DisplayPort to Single-Link DVI adapter, only two displays are supported across the three ports. To connect up to two Mini DisplayPort displays and up to a 30-inch DVI display simultaneously, use the ports without any adapters. To connect two DVI displays, use the dual-link DVI port and the Apple Mini DisplayPort to DVI Adapter or the Apple Mini DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI Adapter (sold separately). To connect three DVI displays at once, you must use two Apple Mini DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI Adapters (sold separately). To connect up to three VGA displays simultaneously, use the Mini DisplayPort to VGA adapter and DVI to VGA adapters (sold separately).
However, based on this blog post, it's worth reading these two Knowledge Base articles before making a buying decision:
*
*Mac Pro: Supported display configurations
*Mac Pro: Issues with three displays and multiple DVI, HDMI connections
A: This is the information from Apple detailing the Mac Pro's tech specs:
Double-wide, 16-lane PCI Express 2.0 graphics slot with one of the following graphics cards installed:
*
*ATI Radeon HD 5770 with 1GB of GDDR5 memory, PCI Express 2.0, two Mini DisplayPort outputs, and one dual-link DVI port
*ATI Radeon HD 5870 with 1GB of GDDR5 memory, PCI Express 2.0, two Mini DisplayPort outputs, and one dual-link DVI port
Option to install two ATI Radeon HD 5770 cards
Support for up to six displays
Support for digital resolutions up to 2560 by 1600 pixels
Support for analog resolutions up to 2048 by 1536 pixels
Video adapters available for:
*
*Additional DVI output using Mini DisplayPort to DVI Adapter (optional)
*Additional dual-link DVI output using Mini DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI Adapter (optional)
*VGA output using Mini DisplayPort to VGA Adapter or DVI to VGA Display Adapter (optional)
So it looks like you might have to get some extra adapters, but it certainly seems like you should not have any problems, as long as you buy the extra stuff :)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2628",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Why is the message body not displayed in iPhone's mail app? The normal mail app correctly shows a list of mails in my mailbox including a preview of the message body. When I tap any of them, the mail opens and correctly shows the mail header (sender, subject, date etc.) but the message body is blank.
When I look at the same mailbox using Gmail webpage, I see the identical mails with message body intact so I know that it's not a problem with the mails or the mailbox itself.
I'm using not-broken iOS 4.1 on an originally Apple-unlocked iPhone 4.
I'm using Google's official setup for Google Apps on iPhone.
I've tried purging the mail/contacts/calendar settings and following Google's setup from scratch. The problem is still there.
How can I fix it so the message body is displayed?
Response to answer:
- This used to work flawlessly, but appeared recently, without any obvious change by me.
- It might have been broken by the 4.0.2-->4.1 upgrade?
- The problem appears on wifi and on GPRS/3G, in any location, and isn't related to download delays (keeping a "blank" message open for a minute doesn't make it appear).
- It also isn't fixed by rebooting the phone.
Follow-up:
This is very weird. It seems to break every few months but only lasts a few days, then magically starts working again. Before, during, and after these incidents, I just use my phone normally and don't mess with any network settings or phone settings. I honestly have no clue what's going on.
A: Has this setup ever worked?
Have you tried just using plain vanilla IMAP?
Is this possibly due to poor connectivity—maybe you have a weak network connection and it's just blank until the entire message downloads?
A: Sometimes force quitting the Mail app forces a reload of the message.
*
*press home to exit mail
*double tap the home screen button
*tap mail and hold until the icon shakes and a red minus sign shows on the multitasking icons
*then tap the minus sign on Mail
On iPad IOS 8:
*
*Press home to exit mail.
*Double tap the home screen button to show running apps.
*Scroll left or right to show the mail app.
*Swipe the mail app preview up and off the screen to end the app.
Launch Mail and cross your fingers. This worked for me on my 4s.
A: So i had this problem and i solved it. Basically you need to reset the settings of the network you are using i.e. Wifi or 3G. Once those specific settings are reset. Input any necessary APNs and usernames and passwords if required to access the net. Now restart your phone and then go to your mail program and Voila. It should be back to normal. It worked for me.
Einstein
A: I had this problem to, I restarted my iPhone and the problem went away.
A: The suggestion provided for Einstein solved my problem too (body of emails not showing).
Just to expand a bit on what I did to "reset" network settings, it was only a matter of going to: Settings/General/Network and there, turn "off" all the options ("enable 3G" and "Celular Data"). Then, just in case, before turning back on these options, I also went to Settings/Wi-Fi and turned that option off as well. After that, went back to Settings/General/Network and turned back on the options I had turned off.
The problem was solved right away, since I went to check emails immediately and found all emails had their body content available.
In case this doesn't work (I had tried other options I'd been suggested somewhere else), such as making sure the date of the device was right (which is another possible source of the "no email body problem", I adjusted email settings and had it show 5 lines of email preview (the max), which worked fine while I found the final solution written above. To do this, go to Settings/Mail, Contacts, Calendars and scroll down until you get to the email section, where you adjust the "preview" option to 5 lines.
I hope any of these solves your problem.
A: I used a combination but what worked was to go to Settings then General then down to Network and select Reset Network Settings. Let the phone restart and you will have to re-enter any passwords to wireless networks but all email issues were fixed
A: I ran into this problem today. But, shutting down and restarting my phone solved the problem. Very strange.
A: Shutting down, waiting for a minute, and turning my computer back on solved this problem for me.
A: It magically started working again after 5 days.
I've no idea why this problem started, and no idea what fixed it. But it was no dream!
A: I just had this problem with my iPhone running iOS 5.1. Killing mail and reopening it fixed it (for now at least).
A: The problem happened suddenly for me, but the restart solved it! I didn't need to do any resetting.
A: The problem is that you can't send emails when the phone is on 'vacation' mode! It's really annoying and defeats the purpose of having it on the phone .
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2629",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: Adding on my command to services menu or adding keyboard shortcuts OnMyCommand allows commands to be added to the shortcut menu. Unfortunately, I can't add them to the services menu or add a keyboard shortcut for them. Is this possible?
A: Use Apple's automator and save the result as a service. If you select the right conext for the service it will appear in the right click menu. You can add shortcuts to services using System Preferences > Keyboard > Keyboard shortcuts. Click somewhere to the right of the service name (near the right edge of the white box). A field appears and you can type a shortcut. This is not very intuitive.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2634",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Can you recommend a numeracy iphone application where you 'write' answers on the screen? I'm trying to find a numeracy/maths/times-tables application for my children in which you have to 'write' the correct answer. There are lots of multiple-choice type times-tables applications but I'm looking for the equivalent of the various "Brain Academy" type applications available on Nintendo DS.
Age from 6 to 10.
Thanks for any help.
A: Unfortunately, the only app that contains everything you want so far seems to be MathBoard, which is iPad-only (it does however, look really well done). I didn't see anything for the iPhone that uses writing input rather than a number pad or buttons.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2635",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Battery warning ''Service battery" Battery warning "Service battery". This warning have appeared in my MacBook Pro (2008) with Snow Leopard. Is there a way to find out what a reason of this warning, without apply to service centre?
A: This means your battery is at the end of its life. This happens to all batteries, sooner or later, depending on your type of usage and most importantly on the amount of cycles (i.e. full recharges).
Your battery will probably not last longer than one hour at this stage. You can of course try to train it by letting it drain the battery until the MacBook sleeps and then recharge it up to 100%, leave it recharged for at least a few hours, and then repeat this process a few times. By doing this, you sort of "reset" the battery and can get a few minutes more out of it. It helped me get at least 20 minutes more.
If OS X tells you to service battery, it means that you will need to buy a new battery if you want full capacity back. There is no warranty that would cover worn out batteries. I had had the same problem, but unless your battery has less than 200 cycles, this is absolutely normal and you should buy a new battery. Again, Apple will not replace your battery unless it's almost unused.
A: It's most likely because your battery is nearing the end of its useful life. Your battery has a maximum charge capacity that decreases with age and use. You can see the current capacity in Utilities --> System Profiler --> Hardware --> Power --> Full charge capacity (mAh):.
However, this doesn't tell you what your original Full charge capacity was. For this, you either need to look up the specs of your laptop, or use a utility like CoconutBattery.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2638",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "12"
} |
Q: Why won't iTunes update my iPod Touch from 4.0b to 4.1? My iPod Touch shows the icon for "I won't do anything until you connect me to iTunes." When I obey, iTunes tells me:
The software on the iPod has expired and must be updated to a newer version.
So I go to click the "Check for Update" button. But when I do, iTunes tells me:
This version of the iPod software (4.0) is the current version.
When I click the "Restore" button, iTunes tells me:
There was a problem downloading the software for the iPod. The requested resource was not found.
The current version on the iPod is 8A274b (4.0 beta), which has, of course, expired. I just updated iTunes, so I have the latest version of that. Does anyone know how I might fix this situation?
A: If you have the 4.0 beta, you are able to download the 4.1 GM from developer.apple.com and use Xcode's Organizer or iTunes (by holding the option key when clicking restore) to choose the correct version of iOS (which is on the disk image you downloaded) to reload onto the iPod.
A: If you are running the beta, then you more than likely have a provisioning profiles on the phone. Make sure all expired profiles are deleted and you have a current, valid one installed. I've had issues related to those in the past.
A: I'm loathe to post this here since it's related to a jailbroken write-up, but seeing as how you've really no alternative, you might want to try the following to downgrade:
http://www.mobile-geeks.com/downgrade-ios-4.2-previous-jailbreakable-version-5843/
Careful, though. This might brick it and then you'll really be in a mess.
After downgrading, I imagine the update process will get you correctly back to 4.1.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: What services that I can't use when I unsubscribe the mobile me? I've used mobile me(me.com) quite a while, but I happen to know and use DropBox.
DropBox is much better than iDisk in terms of easy of use, size, speed, and many things. I'm considering discontinue to use mobile me to switch to 50G option of Dropbox ($100/year), but before doing that, I need to know what services that I cannot use.
I need to use, even though I can live without them.
*
*email web check.
*bookmark and other items sync
Can't I use them I unsubscribe the me.com? What are the paid services that me.com provide other than iDisk?
A: According to the Terms of Service (number 10) you will not be able to use any of the services you are currently paying for after termination of subscription.
Upon termination of your account you lose all access to the Service and any portions thereof, including, but not limited to, your Member Account (any Sub-accounts thereunder), Subscriber ID, email account, iDisk, domains, iChat account and MobileMe Gallery albums.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: How can I enable invisible files with "Transmit" FTP client? How can I enable invisible files with "Transmit" FTP client ?
It asks me to show them only if I override one of them. I actually would like to always see them.
A: View > Show Invisible Files
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Is there a tool like Furigana that I can use on iOS Safari? On my iPod (iOS 4.1), I'm often browsing Japanese webpages, and while I can usually understand the meaning, I often don't know the readings, especially in new contexts.
For my desktop web browsers, there are various ways to get it to display furigana for the webpage you're looking at: the Furigana Inserter extension, a bookmarklet to hiragana.jp, etc.
Does iOS Safari support extensions, or bookmarklets, or any other mechanism by which I can have it add furigana? I can manually copy the URL, and go to hiragana.jp and paste it, and it looks great when it's all done, but the process is manual and slow. Alternatively, is there any built-in furigana support, for Safari or any other app? (If there is it's probably well-hidden, but it wouldn't be the first well-hidden part of iOS!)
I'm not too concerned at this point about whether it's built-in functionality, or whether it has to send my webpage unencrypted over the internet to a service. It would be really nice if it was local-only and secure, but at this point I'll take anything.
A: You can use a bookmarklet. Just sync your Safari or Firefox bookmarks with iTunes. Every bookmarklet you have on the desktop will be available on mobile Safari on the iPhone.
Or you can add the bookmarklet directly from within mobile Safari on the iPhone:
Step 1: Select the line bellow and copy it:
javascript:void(document.location='http://trans.hiragana.jp/ruby/'+escape(document.location))
Step 2: Navigate to hiragana.jp and tap on the '+' button to save a bookmark
Step 3: tap on the bookmarks icon then on 'Edit'
Step 4: Select the bookmark you just added
Step 5: tap on the address, then on the gray 'x' to clear the field
Step 6: tap that field again and select 'Paste'
Step 7: you're done
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: How to record the screen of an OpenGL application without stuttering? I'm currently recording videos of my screen using QuckTime Player and a MacBook Pro 13" (mid-2010) in a resolution of 640x480. The application I'm recording is called Synthesia (it is a game like Guitar Hero for piano) and is based on OpenGL.
Somehow all videos I record do have a subtile stuttering which I think is annoying (see an example here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEBAKQ4-Zcg).
Is there a program that will do a better job at recording my screen than QuckTime Player, or is it just my MacBook Pro that is not powerful enough?
A: The reason for the “stuttering” could be a combination of different factors.
First is of course your computer’s power and video card. The more power you have, the more the number of FPSs your computer can “record”.
Despite that, QuickTime is not known for its “fast” recording, so I suggest you give a try to different alternatives. This comparison is a little bit “outdated” because some (if not most) of the applications mentioned have been updated and have fixed or changed some of the problems they had, however, it should be a starting point for your final QUickTime Replacement. This other link has a very similar list, but rather than a review is a list with a short description of the products.
For reference, the most important Screen Capture tools for OS X (or to put it in another way, the “most used ones”) are (in no particular order): iShowU, Snapz Pro X, ScreenFlow and one that is missing from those lists (because it’s a new player in the Mac world): Camtasia for Mac (which I’ve been betatesting and it’s quite good and in par with the ones I’ve mentioned). Some features missing from Camtasia 1.0 have been addressed in an update and I know they are working on a newer version after getting tons of feedback in the Beta forums (which I can’t disclose because I participated).
I’ve personally tried those four I’ve mentioned (i have a Snapz Pro license) and I think they more or less are the same, but some were (when I tried them) faster than others but lacked certain features. All in all, the “best” doesn’t exist, they all have strengths and weaknesses so your best bet is to give them a try and see if one does the job.
Last but not least, remember that quality also plays an important factor in CPU overhead when recording, try to keep your CPU load low and reduce the recording quality as much as you can afford.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2653",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Is there a good, non-Google Reader RSS reader for iPhone/iPod? I'm looking for an app to read RSS feeds on my iPod Touch. I saw Reeder, but it looks like it only interoperates with Google Reader, as far as I can tell -- you can't just add an arbitrary RSS feed. Is there a good RSS reader that works without Google Reader?
A: NetNewsWire is a good reader and syncing with Google Reader is optional.
A: NewsRack is pretty solid, with a simple clean interface, and the ability to add feeds directly int he app- no Google reader required.
I use Reeder now, which I think has a nicer, slicker interface, but Reeder requires Google sync - you can't add feeds directly in the app. Before that, I was very happy with NewsRack.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2654",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Can I schedule startup and shutdown with different settings for weekdays and weekends? Everyday, I usually start my Mac Mini at 16:00 and shutdown it at 2:00 using the Energy Saver schedule settings.
I would like to be able to set a different behavior on the Weekends starting Mac Mini at 9:00 for example. Do you know any way to achieve that (third party software, cron job, superuser trick)?
A: Consider using DssW Power Manager. With Power Manager, you can create multiple separate start up and shut down times for weekdays and weekends.
Power Manager goes far beyond the capabilities of pmset. How to schedule your Mac to shut down (screen recording on YouTube).
Disclaimer: I work for DssW.
A: You don't need 3rd party software. The OS X utility pmset allows you to schedule sleep/wake taking day of week into effect. I haven't tested it, but it appears you cannot schedule multiple repeating events on different times. You'll need to use cron to complete this task.
from man pmset
Schedules the system to automatically wake from sleep on
July 4, 2009, at 8PM.
pmset schedule wake "07/04/09 20:00:00"
Schedules a repeating shutdown to occur each day, Tuesday through
Saturday, at 11AM.
pmset repeat shutdown TWRFS 11:00:00
A: For the shutdown part I can suggest Mac Shutdown X (shareware 20$), It is customizable using an easy to use setting setup panel (no coding or editing of script required).
A: This seemed to work for me:
sudo pmset repeat shutdown MTWRF 16:00:00
For shutting down every weekday. I bet amset instead of pmset would work for waking them up.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2655",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: How do I fix failed aliases? I had two external hard disks: External and Backup. External had many aliases which pointed to other files on the same disk. Backup was used to backup External.
External failed, and I now use Backup, which I have since renamed to External. Unfortunately, all those aliases now point to /Volumes/Backup/… and thus no longer work.
I don't want to have to fix them or recreate them one at a time.
Is there a way to fix all the aliases so that they point to /Volumes/External/… instead of /Volumes/Backup/…?
A: Here's my stab at solving this problem with Applescript. The following applescript will take selected aliases in the Finder and try and relink them to the new path replacing Backup with External in the POSIX path.
Hopefully it's straightforward. You could probably make it recursive to search for aliases in selected folders, but that's more work than I care to do -- and then there's the problem of dealing with aliases to folders. Things could get messy. ;-)
Hope it helps.
tell application "Finder"
set these_items to the selection
end tell
repeat with i from 1 to the count of these_items
set this_item to (item i of these_items) as alias
set this_info to info for this_item
if class of this_item is alias then
tell application "Finder"
set original_file to original item of this_item
set this_alias_file_name to displayed name of this_item
set container_folder to container of this_item
set the_path to the POSIX path of (original_file as alias)
set new_path to my replaceText("/Backup/", "/External/", the_path)
move this_item to trash
try
make new alias file at container_folder to (POSIX file new_path) with properties {name:this_alias_file_name}
on error errMsg number errorNumber
if errorNumber is -10000 then -- new original file not found, try relinking to old
try
make new alias file at container_folder to (POSIX file the_path) with properties {name:this_alias_file_name}
on error errMsg number errorNumber
if errorNumber is -10000 then -- old original not found. link's dead Jim
display dialog "The original file for alias " & this_alias_file_name & " was not found."
else
display dialog "An unknown error occurred: " & errorNumber as text
end if
end try
else
display dialog "An unknown error occurred: " & errorNumber as text
end if
end try
end tell
end if
end repeat
on replaceText(find, replace, subject)
set prevTIDs to text item delimiters of AppleScript
set text item delimiters of AppleScript to find
set subject to text items of subject
set text item delimiters of AppleScript to replace
set subject to "" & subject
set text item delimiters of AppleScript to prevTIDs
return subject
end replaceText
A: Name the disk back to Backup? Seriously, I think that would be the quickest way to solve the problem. Or you could write a shell script that recursively finds all aliase's pointing the "Backup" volume and recreate them to point to the new name...
edit
Check out http://sveinbjorn.org/osxutils_docs, mkalias in particular.
A: I recently had to solve the same problem, and wrote this ruby code to fix all aliases recursively.
I'll paste it here:
#!/usr/bin/ruby
# these are the folders containing all your images
if ARGV.size == 2
dir_base = ARGV[0]
alias_folder = ARGV[1]
else
puts "usage $0 dir_with_all_files sub_dir_containing_broken_aliases"
puts " or pass -d to use defaults: ~/img background"
if ARGV[0] && ARGV[0] == '-d'
dir_base = File.expand_path '~/img'
alias_folder = 'background'
end
end
# list of all alias file paths, dirs excluded
alist = Dir.glob("#{dir_base}/#{alias_folder}/**/*").
select{|w| w.scan('.').any? }
# a list of all file paths, alias fodler contents excluded
flist = Dir.glob("#{dir_base}/**/*").
reject{|w| w.scan("#{dir_base}/#{alias_folder}").any? }
# forcably create new aliases by overwriting old files
alist.each do |f|
flist.each do |w|
`ln -fs #{w.gsub(' ','\ ')} #{f.gsub(' ','\ ')}` if w.split('/').last == f.split('/').last
puts "linked #{w.gsub(' ','\ ')} to #{f.gsub(' ','\ ')}"
end
end
A: His problem is not with the name "Backup". Same happens to me with "Compare Files" contextual menu (I think that's the issue) and certainly with files opened from DreamWeaver.
There has been some change / fix in Apple OS because DW tries to open the same file in Chrome without "Volume" before the partition name, and the same file opened in Chrome reveals "Volume" which works.
So either Adobe or Apple made a change or made a fix on the way they point/call a partition other than the startup disk in that same drive.
So in the OP case, the name of the drive IS backup. The problem is the aliases have "Volume" added to it. I think at some point the startup disk was meant to NOT include "Volumes" and later they fixed it for the Finder and other obvious places but they didn't get to the aliases yet.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2656",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: Printing full calendar invitation? I use OS X Mail and iCal connected to my company's MS Exchange server. Sometimes a co-worker sends a calendar invitation (using Outlook) with lots of agenda details in it. I'm trying to find a good way to print that.
iCal has an option to print the day's events in list format, but the output is in two columns and a few of the lines write over each other and are completely unreadable.
If I try to print the invitation as it came to me in Mail, the output has an iCal icon showing the attachment -- not the contents of the attachment.
So, short of copy/paste into TextEdit, Word, etc, is there a clean way to print this?
I asked this on superuser a few months ago and got no answers at all. Are the apple fanboys more active here?
A: Better question: If the output from iCal was readable, would it be sufficient? The reason I ask, is because iCal word wraps within the two day columns, making the overlapping issue unusual. Perhaps the issue is with the iCal Application Support files or .plist
A: Would going into iCal's day view, taking a screenshot & printing be a good solution for your needs?
A: Revisiting this over a year and a half later...
This has been improved in iCal in OS X Lion. On the print dialog, there's an option to print only the selected event. Also, the day option or list option will print the full contents without messing up the formatting or overwriting other lines.
In other ways iCal in Lion is worse, but it's definitely better for printing calendar entries.
A: If we're talking about a single invite, and you wanted to go backwards in time and rely on paper (again) you could print the email invite. If you're wanting to print a collection of events you could make an applescript to do that quite easily. Drop the email onto your script have it open the attachment, screen shot the window of the appointment & overly that on top of the email. Screenshot the 2 together & print the png or drop it into a PDF to print it.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2657",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Why is Windows 7 giving me a software counterfeiting error? I have a legitimate copy of Windows 7 Ultimate installed via Bootcamp on my Macbook Pro. I also have Parallels 5 installed on my Mac OS X, which can boot up Bootcamp's partition of Windows 7.
I'm getting an error when I run Windows 7 on Parallels:
You may be a victim of software counterfeiting
It wants me to go online and resolve it. But I've already registered my copy of Windows 7 (I can't remember if I did it via Bootcamp or Parallels).
My question is: Does my single copy of Windows 7 only allow me to have it installed via Bootcamp or Parallels?
I only installed it once, and my copy of Parallels is booting my Bootcamp install. It's the same machine! I'm hoping I don't need to have 2 licenses of Windows 7 run it on my Macbook Pro!
A: I was able to get my Macbook Pro to run the same licensed copy of Windows 7 Ultimate on both Bootcamp and Parallels 5 by activating it on both. I was having trouble running and activating it on my Parallels VM which ran the Bootcamp install. So what I did was change the MAC address of eth0 to match the one from Bootcamp.
Once I changed that, I called Microsoft and activated via their automated system, which generated a set of numbers/code for me.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2659",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: How do you stop iPhoto/Aperture launching when you sync an iPad? How do you stop iPhoto/Aperture launching when you sync an iPad?
A: Open Image Capture, connect the iPad, select it when it appears in the list on the left. On the lower left will be a selector for what app to open when it connects, you can pick None.
A: http://www.tech-recipes.com/rx/4183/how-to-prevent-iphoto-09-from-opening-when-camera-is-connected/
These are the directions for blocking iPhoto.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2663",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Should I worry about my iPhone 4's loose back panel? A few weeks ago I got my iPhone 4 replaced by Apple because of a fault. The replacement now seems to have a loose back panel. If I try to slide it sideways it will move a bit. None of the other people I know with an iPhone 4 have encountered this and I'm not sure if I should be bothered taking it back to the store or just keeping it.
Should the loose panel be cause for concern, or is it nothing to worry about?
A: Considering how much an iPhone costs, take it back. If not for the fact that a loose panel will eventually expose the interior of the phone, thus requiring you to take it back anyway, then for the simple fact that we, as a customer base, expect better of Apple products.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2664",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: alternative keyboards I use the latest wireless keyboard for my iMac at home. Since I use it for programming most of the time, the little laptop style arrow keys are inadequate. Are there any GOOD alternative apple keyboards available?
EDIT:
Sorry Dori, I should have been more clear. I would specifically like a keyboard which is made for Apple, with the appropriate "command" and extra keys (like F13 - F15, and the volume keys).
A: Virtually all USB and Bluetooth keyboards work just fine with Macs.
There are about a zillion Mac-compatible keyboards, and just because one person loves a given model doesn't mean it will suit another (I still use my Apple Extended Keyboard, for instance). Some of the bigger makers in the field are Kensington, Logitech, Macally, Matias1, and Adesso.
What in particular (besides bigger arrow keys) matters to you? What do you hate? What do you love? Do you want wireless, or is USB ok?
You might want to check out these two Macworld articles:
*
*Review Roundup: Keyboards and mice
*Keyboards buying guide
1 I bought a Matias keyboard. I hated it. I don't recommend them.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2665",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Is there an app that will scan a document and upload it to Google Docs? Is there an iPhone app that allows me to take pictures of documents and then upload them to Google Docs?
A: Scanner Pro [iTunes link] from Readdle. According to the product's Web page, it integrates with Google Docs and
lets you use Google Docs OCR to convert scans into editable text files on your Google account.
A: DocScanner and Genius Scan will also provide this capability (along with upload to Evernote, DropBox, etc.).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2672",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Tool for creating .rar files on the Mac? Is there any good, free program for OS X that can create RAR files? Preferably with a GUI.
It seems there are plenty of options for extracting RAR files, but not that many for compressing them...
A: Download simplyrar it free and easy to use.
A: You can use command line rar for Mac OS X, but it doesn't have GUI. On the other hand, it's useful for scripting. (I feel that it should be mentioned here anyway).
A: SimplyRar (download) will do the trick.
A: It's not free, but Rucksack is a great app to create all kind of archives, ".rar" included.
A: BetterZip, it does rar's too, it's easy to use.
It does cost though.
A: Install WinRAR into a WineSkin wrapper. Works perfectly.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2674",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "20"
} |
Q: New powercord for MacBook I am considering going on eBay to try and buy a new powercord for my MacBook. I know that phones often advise that you only use the official charger, so I was wondering if the same warning applied for laptops and if so, I serious I should take the warning.
A: Apple owns a patent on the magsafe connector and hasn't licensed anyone else to make one, I'd be very wary of buying a third party one if you find one at all.
However, best I can tell a magsafe charger from any macbook seems to work with any other one, but if you get one with less wattage than your original it will charge slower.
A: I'm not sure about Laptop cables, but I've bought at least 3 camera battery chargers over the years from eBay, each one fused in a puff of smoke when plugged in, tripping my mains fuses.
I bought my 2nd MacBook cable direct from Apple. Expensive, but the peace of mind was worth it!
Incidentally, the 'Apple 60W MagSafe Power Adapter' works fine with my old 13" Black MacBook '4,1'.
A: Any mag-safe charger from Apple should be fine with a standard MacBook. If you have a MacBook Pro, you'll want the higher-rated charger (85W I think). I doubt there are 'legal' 3rd party ones out there, and to be honest even if I found one I'd avoid it and just stick with official Apple spares.
A: Actually you should be careful when using a charger that doesn't come with your laptop. Apple's official word on the matter is:
Make sure the proper wattage adapter for your portable computer is used.
Select the appropriate power adapter for your Apple portable computer. You can use a higher wattage power adapter, but you cannot use one with less wattage without potential operating issues. (here + discussion here).
In the good old days (Powerbooks) we used to get all sorts of odd logic board hassles when using the wrong charger. These days it does mean a slower charging time but it can also mean the (very) rare logic board damage or hardware funkiness.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How do you maximize windows? Unlike Windows, you cannot maximize a window in Mac with a click of the button. The little green (+) button next to the red and yellow buttons at the left of the windows does some strange stuff sometimes when you click it and doesn't do the expected operations.
How would you fully maximize a window on a Mac?
A: BetterTouchTool, if you have a macbook pro which has a multitouch pad (I'm betting you do), it lets you assign thing like Windows style maximise to the very top middle of your touch pad. But you don't have to use it like that, as it has an AeroSnap type feature, where you can just drag a window to the top of the screen and it will truly maximise, also dragging it to the left/right will make the window take up the left/right side of the screen.
I find the Mac version of maximise unsatisfactory for things like web page and xcode. And betterTouchTool has many good features.
A: I use an inexpensive app, Cinch from Irradiated Software. Whenever I need to maximize a window, I just drag it from the titlebar to the top of the screen, and Cinch takes care of resizing it for me. If I need to unmaximize, I just move it a little out of its position and it is restored to its previous state. I wish there were some way to do it (automatically) without extra applications, provided with the default system, but I know not of it.
A: Mac OS X does not have a button for maximizing windows, instead you should drag the bottom-right of the window to resize it to your prefered size.
And meanwhile the green plus button at the top-left resizes the window so that it fits the content of that window.
A: I use Spectacle. It's free and open source. The default key shortcut for maximizing windows is ⌘+F.
A: On Yosemite:
*
*Double click the window top bar (Like in MS Windows)
or
*
*Option-click the green dot in the top left.
On older OS X versions: Shift-click the green (+)
A: I use Moom for that purpose, also for rearranging and moving my windows between monitors. You basically get the same keyboard based window management that windows 7 users get, just a lot more configurable.
I have it setup so that Ctrl+ CMD + Left puts the window to the left side of the current display, Ctrl+ CMD + right to the right side, + Ctrl + CMD + Down to the next of my current monitors and finally Ctrl + CMD + Up to maixmize the window. Makes for some pretty quick and sleek work combinations (Two windows next to each other for comparision? 1 second, there you go :))
A: Download and use RightZoom. It overrides your green plus (zoom) button and works like Windows maximize. You can add it to your login items in your user account to run every time you start OS X.
A: I move the window to the top-left edge of the screen, and drag the window-sizing handle on the bottom-right corner of the window to the bottom-right edge of the screen.
I don’t have to do it very often, as windows seem to remember what size they were at.
A: For many applications (Safari, Mail, Terminal, ...), simply command-clicking the + button will maximize the window.
A: I've assigned this script to ⌥⌘M. It doesn't work with all windows or with multiple displays though.
tell application "Finder" to set {0, 0, dtw, dth} to bounds of window of desktop
try
tell application (path to frontmost application as text)
if name is in {"Terminal"} then
error
else
set bounds of window 1 to {0, 22, dtw, dth}
end if
end tell
on error
tell application "System Events" to tell (process 1 where it is frontmost)
try
click (button 1 of window 1 where subrole is "AXZoomButton")
end try
end tell
end try
A: While pressing Alt, drag a corner of the window to that corresponding corner of your screen. It will expand the window in all directions, until the window takes up the full screen.
This is a simple way of doing it without having to download any additional programs, built right in to the OS, though it might be a bit more tedious. It works for all windows that can be resized, unlike some of the other solutions which work for specific apps.
A: DoublePane - $4.99 does that by Ctrl+Option+Up. This is also can be done with Spectacle which is free on MAS
A: If you are on macOS Sierra, you can do this: hold the Alt button and double click on the bottom left corner (or any other corner) of the screen to make the window take up the maximum amount of space with going into fullscreen mode.
A: Move the mouse to the corner of the window where it becomes a resizing arrow and option double click to fill the screen, WITHOUT going into full screen mode.
Double clicking on any side when the resize arrow is visible will move that side to the edge of the screen. Adding option affects the opposite side as well.
Both of these controls may be obscure / not in common use, but they are excellent.
A: Using Alt-Click on the green (+) maximizes most windows. But if also that don't fit your wishes, you could use the plugin sizewell.
A: For later versions of OS X (10.7+), hit the full-screen icon at the top right corner of the app's window.
A: By ignoring the meta keys, the green button's use is minimized.
You can define a shortcut for the Zoom function to toggle between Maximize and Normalize.
*
*System Preferences > Keyboard > Shortcuts > App Shortcuts
*If you don't see a shortcut for Zoom, click the + button
*Enter Zoom in the Menu Title field and a shortcut key combination (e.g. ⇧⌘M)
*Click Add to save the shortcut.
Now the ⇧⌘M combination should toggle the current window between Maximize and Normalize.
A: In previous version of OS X the Shift+Click option worked.
Currently in Yosemite if you haven't changed the default behavior, the green button is set to fullscreen not maximize so now the shortcut is:
Opt + Shift + Clicking the green plus (+)
A: You could try using Magnet app. It's a small app that basically gives you the functionality of window snapping on Mac (the same as you have in Windows). You can see how it works here:
Window snapping on Mac OS
A: *
*Move the mouse to a Safari window corner, you will see the resize arrow ⤢ ⤡.
* Option (Alt) ⌥ + double click
Window is maximised now :-)
A: Recently: Option (alt) + Green circle
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2680",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "58"
} |
Q: What would I lose from switching from iPhone 4+ e-reader to dumbphone+iPad I'm currently using an iPhone 4 and a cheap e-reader that was given to me as a gift. I don't think I can afford both an iPhone and an iPad, so I was considering switching to a dumbphone (non-smartphone) and an iPad. What features would i lose, or miss, from making this switch - specifically in the iphone-ipad part?
A: It seems to me that you would spend less money overall if you just kept the iPhone and got a wifi-only iPad rather than switching phones and plans (not including that nasty early termination fee on the iPhone contracts). That is what I have now and I really like it.
But, to answer your question specifically, even taking into consideration the iOS 4 release for iPad later this year, you will be missing, at minimum, all of the camera-related functionality of the iPhone, but then there is visual voicemail and easy (and cheap) email. That's a lot to give up all things considered.
A: The internet, and a pretty great camera, in your pocket.
A: In addition to the good answers already given, there's also:
*
*FaceTime
*Video
*Synchronization (you'd have to always manually update your phone contacts)
Also worth mentioning: if you buy a 3G iPad there's no monthly charge unless/until you sign a carrier agreement. IMO, you're always better off buying one with 3G if there's a >0% chance you'll need it someday. Yes, it's more money initially, but it's a one-time charge.
A: Split the question into two separate items and make a decision about them:
*
*(Why) Do you want an iPad?
*(Why) Do you want to replace your iPhone with a simpler one?
For instance, even if you get an iPad, it would still be convenient to keep the iPhone. Also, if you jailbreak your iPhone, you could broadcast your iPhone's Internet access as a local WIFI hotspot that your iPad could connect to = the cheaper WIFI-only iPad would suffice, rather than getting the 3G version when you're already paying for a 3G data plan for your iPhone.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Can I update my 4.0b iphone to 4.0.1, and not to 4.1? I am looking for a way to update my iPhone 3Gs to 4.0.1, and not to 4.1 so that I can jailbreak.
Can anyone help?
EDIT - I have now tried, and failed on two seperate machnines to restore from DFU mode to 4.0.1 The device is has 4 beta on it.
A: You can go to this website and download the correct firmware file to your computer. From there, plug your iPhone into your computer and shift-click (Windows) or option-click (Mac) the "Restore" button. From there, choose the firmware file your downloaded.
A: You can view information on jailbreaking iOS devices at Jailbreak Matrix and they include links to past firmware
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2694",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: My iPad keeps asking me for my iTunes account password It keeps asking me for my password, even when I'm using other apps such as Mail.
A: Try a reset - hold the home and power buttons down until the apple logo appears.
I had a similar problem when I'd downloaded an app update, but lost wifi, and it got caught in a loop, and the reset seemed to resolve it.
A: If a reset like Jaydles suggested doesn't work, syncing it to a computer with iTunes that has been registered with your account will resolve the issue.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2697",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: How to create a shortcut on the desktop to a selected folder In windows when right clicking a folder there is an option: send to -> desktop (create shortcut).
How can I do this on a Mac?
A: *
*Start automator
*Make new service
*Set it to receive files and folders in finder
*add the 'new aliases' command
*it's set to desktop by default
*save the service as 'send alias to desktop' and voila!
Now you have an extra option under the right click menu, and a service in the finder menu!
A: Alternatively, you can simply drag the folder to the desktop while holding the optioncommand keys…
If your windows are so cluttered that it is inconvenient, just make sure your Desktop icon is showing in the "Places" location on the Finder sidebar, and drag the item while holding optioncommand to that icon.
A: You can drag the proxy icon onto the desktop to create a shortcut.
| {
"language": "en",
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"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Macbook: Flashing Folder with Question Mark At Startup So, I've been hearing a clicking sound coming from my macbook for about a week now. The last few days the system has just been locking itself up when I try to type anything.
Now, at startup I see this:
I'm assuming that the clicking was "the click of death" and my hard drive is fried. Or am I wrong?
A: That's the most likely scenario.
Have you tried booting from a system disc? I'd recommend doing that, and then running Disk Utility and see what it says about the drive.
A: not necessary:)
your mac just cannot where your OS is,
check here and if not helps, reformat HDD and install fresh OS
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1440
A: My MacBook is an older one - OSX 10.5.8 . It has had the "folder of death" problem twice recently. The first time I tried all the "fixes" recommended but to no avail. I did not attempt wiping the HDD. I put it aside for a couple of weeks and was surprised to have it come good after that. Today it went bad again. The clicking noise sounded like the HDD was stuck somehow. So I gave it a thump on my knee and it booted normally. I don't know if this cure is repeatable or works in all cases but for me it put off the inevitable trip to the Apple store for a while.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2705",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Encoding video for the new (2010) Apple TV What applications are recommended for encoding existing videos from various sources (ripped DVDs, MKVs, AVIs ...) into a format playable by the new (2010) Apple TV?
A: Somebody's gotta make the first obligatory post recommending HandBrake—might as well be me.
A: The new Apple TV really doesn't really decode individual video codecs - it streams them from local and remote sources. I suspect, though I'm not 100% sure since I don't have mine yet, that if you're interested in streaming to your Apple TV from a local computer, you should convert to the standard formats well supported and playable by iTunes (h.264, quicktime) which will stream over the new(ish) airplay support.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2710",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Native Google Reader clients for OS X? Are there any good Google Reader clients for OS X?
A: Reeder for Mac is pretty awesome.
A: You can try Gruml. It's still in beta and hasn't convinced me to switch from the web version, but it's pretty nice.
A: There are several RSS readers and some can sync with google Reader
This includes
NetNewsWire
Other clients include
Vienna RSS
A: I just installed Cappuccino and it looks nice. Simple to use, fast and syncs with Google Reader.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2717",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: Best app to switch between all open windows After 4 years of being a Mac user, there is only one thing that I still miss from the Windows world, and that is being able to switch with a single keystroke between all open windows in the computer.
What is the best app or utility, free or not, for accomplishing that?
I've used Witch, but I never was completely satisfied with it. It's a bit slow and the switcher UI is not very pretty.
Do you know any alternative?
EDIT (2016): This question keeps getting views and upvotes after 6 years. When I asked this question in 2010 I was still transitioning from being a Windows user. Eventually, I got used to Mac OS X UI and nowadays I don't use any third party utility for managing app windows, just Mission Control and the native keyboard shortcuts. So, although this question is no longer relevant for me I hope it is useful to new Mac users making the switch (Including this comment).
A: I know it isn't a single keystroke but I like using the "App exposé" feature to navigate between the windows of the focused application :
*
*ctrl + down arrow (or three fingers down move)
*then left arrow or right arrow to navigate between windows (or click on the window you chose)
A: I've been using AltTab, an open source application, with success.
AltTab brings the power of Windows’s “alt-tab” window switcher to macOS.
Alt-Tab is open source software that can be built & installed locally, or can be installed directly from its website or through Homebrew:
brew cask install alt-tab
A: I'm guessing you're already aware, but for those searching the web there's always Ctrl+F4. No visual feedback, but it does switch between all windows for all apps (that are not hidden) with one command. Of course it's instant and so it doesn't reorder the list like ⌘+Tab does. I also got tired of Witch, but I decided that most of the time ⌘+` is all I need.
A: Senebier seems to be a good alternative to witch and it's free.
http://www.bicoid.com/app/senebier/index.html
A: https://contexts.co/
Contexts for mac is a competitor to Witch. As a long-time non-mac user looking for more intuitive window switching , I really like this app. It allows for switching between all the windows you have open, using your keyboard or your mouse.
There's also an optional side panel, which is somewhat a replacement for the Mac Dock. It can be configured to hide applications that don't have a window, and displays multiple icons for multiple windows. As such, irrelevant background applications are hidden and multi-window apps can be managed more easily.
If need be you can still use Apple's Native App-switcher (cmd+tab) to close/switch-to background/windowless applications without using the native dock.
A: *
*Quicksilver (or spotlight). You summon the App you are interested on, say Safari.
*Using Mission Control's Show application windows (you can assign a shortcut to this using the keyboard icon on the system preferences)
*Once all the application windows are being shown, you can type (there's no text field, you will just have to start typing) the title of the window you care. After a couple of keystrokes, your window will be selected.
At the beginning you'll be slow but as time goes by, you'll become pretty fast.
A: It's interesting - no one has mentioned Karabiner. it has ton of options for different things, the one I like called "Tab mode", where you can switch between apps by holding Tab key and using either arrows or HJKL keys (especially favored by Vim users). Tab+I to cycle through open windows of the current app.
I love Karabiner, it's the app that made me really, really hate Windows (occasionally I have to do things in Windows). However even with awesome AutoHotkey app I couldn't find a way to use keyboard there as Karabiner lets me on a Mac.
I encourage you to try Karabiner and explore vast amount of different options, trust me - it will change the way you use your keyboard.
A: An app I developed, Optimal Layout (14$), gives you keyboard commands to quickly switch and re-organize windows.
A: For those who don't know it, Ctrl+F4, Ctl+`, ... can be remapped in:
SystemPreferences=>Keyboard=>Keyboard Shortcuts=>Keyboard & Text Input
A: Command + Tab, combined with Command + `. Works great.
Let me explain:
*
*Command + Tab : Switch between different applications.
*Command + ` : Cycle between all open windows of the application you're focused on. (For example, if you have four Finder windows open, you can press Command + ` to move between the four windows.)
If this and other keyboard shortcuts seems to be broken, you probably have another keyboard-layout then US, The shortcuts actually aren't to the ` key but rather the key that would have ` on a US keyboard, to find what key this is on your layout, open the "keyboard viewer" and switch your layout to US, take notice on where the ` key is located, swich back to your normal layout and you can now use this button to switch windows.
On a swedish keyboard ` is the button next to 1 (§) on the small/laptop keyboard, and the key next to z (<) on the full size keyboard.
A: Hyperswitch is free and works well. It also looks nice.
Update: ...but unfortunately as of May 2021 the app is not being updated anymore and has no native Apple Silicon (M1) support.
http://bahoom.com/hyperswitch
A: Here's a list of all the options from this page:
["italicized & quoted notes are sourced from linked url"]
*
*Mission Control and native keyboard shortcuts: ⌘+tab or ⌘+` (backtick)
*AltTab ["macOS 10.12 to 12"] [$0 (free), open source]
*Witch ["v4.3.8 requires macOS 10.10 Yosemite or newer"] [$14]
*Hyperswitch ["Mountain Lion, Mavericks & Yosemite"; works on Sierra & High Sierra] [$0 Free] [window preview]
*Contexts ["v3.7.1 Works on Mojave & Catalina"] [$9 after Free trial]
*Optimal Layout [Snow Leopard or later] [$0 (free) but not currently actively developed]
*Karabiner - ["macOS 11.0 Big Sur,
macOS 10.15 Catalina"]
*Senebier ["10.4 or later", last update in 2012]
*Hammerspoon with hs.window.switcher [free and open source]
*Command-Tab Plus ["macOS 10.12 or later and is fully macOs Monterey ready", 13.75 €]
A: As mentioned in the question, Witch ($14) is one of the first window switchers and, IMHO, still one of the best.
I suspect @Sergio (questioner) main concerns have now been addressed in Witch. I think its actually one of the better looking ones, with lots of options for tweaking appearance (including themes). It also feels very fast to me.
All that said, I am not currently using Witch because it doesn't support searching the window names. For that I was using Optimal Layout and am now trying out Contexts (which seems very promising).
A: Been searching for a mac window swapper that INCLUDES MINIMIZED WINDOWS for ages. Little did I know, the function was already built into Quicksilver, sitting under my nose this whole time. It's an action called "show all windows," which I've set as a trigger ( ⌘` for proximity to ⌘⇥).
Quicksilver comes to the rescue once more (as usual).
A: See also this question, where I posted the same answer.
I am surprised / shocked that nobody mentioned hammerspoon. Aside, it can do much more than just window switching!
From its webpage:
This is a tool for powerful automation of OS X. At its core, Hammerspoon is just a bridge between the operating system and a Lua scripting engine. What gives Hammerspoon its power is a set of extensions that expose specific pieces of system functionality, to the user.
Using hs.window.switcher one just adds (as mentioned in the docs) to the init.lua
switcher_space = hs.window.switcher.new(hs.window.filter.new():setCurrentSpace(true):setDefaultFilter{})
hs.hotkey.bind('alt','tab','Next window',function()switcher_space:next()end)
hs.hotkey.bind('alt-shift','tab','Prev window',function()switcher_space:previous()end)
and one can happily switch between windows in the current space using alt+tab and alt+shift+tab.
EDIT:
In case it is rather slow, try turning of thumbnails and set the animation duration to 0.
switcher_space.ui.showThumbnails = false
hs.window.animationDuration = 0
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2718",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "227"
} |
Q: Time Machine with only one internal disk Is it possible to use the time machine backup system without an external (or second) HD?
I know that the protection to disk failure will not be guaranteed anymore, but the file accidental deletion, the wrong edit etc. will be avoided...
Is there a trick to make Time Machine believes that he has a disk dedicated for him to do the job ?
Note : The situation is using a laptop on travel.
A: You can partition the disk and run the OS on one partition and Time machine on the other.
Disk Utility can repartition without losing data. but as usual take a backup first.
A: Lion enables this quite easily (and by default in most cases). It's no where near as good as backing up to another drive since most failures of that drive will render the originals and backups equally inoperable.
Just issue sudo tmutil enablelocal if you think you have the room for this. The normal Time Machine preference pane should show local backups when the main volume isn't connected.
You may need to nominate another drive to be the "main" backup and then never connect it again. It's not 100% clear to me yet all the in-s and out-s of this.
| {
"language": "en",
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} |
Q: Downgrading iPhone 3G 4.1 to 3.X or 2.X my iPhone 3G with iOS 4.1 is really slow and I am tired of this stupid situation. I am considering downgrading somehow to old 3.X or even 2.X versions, so it can breath again. What do you think? How would yo do it and to what iOs version?
Thanks
A: Firstly, if you don't use spotlight (the search screen when you swipe right from Home) you can turn that off which should increase the performance of the iPhone.
Settings>General>Spotlight Search and then deselect all of the options.
If you still want to downgrade....
The iPhone isn't really designed to downgrade but there are ways to do it.
I had to down grade from the 4.0beta to 3.1.3 and followed this guide on The Unofficial Apple Weblog.
| {
"language": "en",
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"source": "stackexchange",
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} |
Q: How can I tell when it's a good time to buy a MacBook Pro? I want to know if a particular date (for instance, October 1, 2010) is a good date to go ahead and buy a Macbook pro, or whether I should wait few months for new models to come out. How can I figure out whether a computer I buy will soon become obsolete?
A: See the comments to improve the question, but Macrumors' buyers' guide always has suggestions if now is a good time to buy.
A: MacBook Pros aren't going to be updated until at least January, if you can wait 3 or 4 months, I suggest you do so.
However, if you need it before the end of the year, go for it. I doubt we'll see any major advancements anyway. You'll only miss out on slight speed bumps not a quantum computer.
| {
"language": "en",
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} |
Q: Creating a folder with one icon in iOS 4 Is it possible to create a folder containing a single icon? I guess you could drag one icon onto another, then remove the second one, but is there a more "elegant" solution?
A: You describe the only way to achieve this.
Create a folder by dragging one app on top of another, then drag one of them out of the folder again. It doesn't get any simpler than that.
A: Press any app icon until all of your icons jiggle. Drag any icon on top of the one you want to keep in the folder. If you want to name the folder do it now (see the word FOLDER at the top of the screen > on the right edge of that bar tap the tiny X to delete the word FOLDER > type in the name of your choice). Push the Home button to stop the jiggling. Now again press any icon until they all the icons jiggle. Drag the icon you do NOT want to keep in the folder to somewhere else on the screen. Push the Home button. Now you should have a folder with whatever you named it, and only the one icon you want inside that folder. (If you want to name or rename the folder later, push any icon until all the icons jiggle. Tap the folder you want to name. Tap the bar where it has the name or it says FOLDER. Tap the tiny X on the right side of the bar. Type the name of your choice. Push the Home button to stop the jiggling.
| {
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} |
Q: How can I copy the path of a file in Finder? How can I copy the path to a folder or a file? The Info Dialog doesn't allow me to copy the information that stands there ...
Is there an easy way to do this?
A: There are two ways I do this (and the info window is neither of them):
*
*Open the Terminal application and drag the item into the window, and a POSIX-style path will be displayed that you can copy and paste.
*Use Applescript...
...select an item in the Finder and run this...
tell application "Finder"
return info for selection as alias
end tell
...or create a droplet with this code...
on open theFile
set thePath to POSIX path of theFile
set the clipboard to thePath as text
end open
Add salt to taste.
A: The best and easiest way to do this is by creating a "copy path" service, very similar to the shift + Right-Click on a Windows machine.
If you frequently need to copy and paste file and folder paths, creating an Automator Service will make your life easier because the service then becomes accessible from the OS X Right-Click contextual menu, accessible from anywhere in the Finder.
Follow these steps to set it up (screenshots below).
*
*Launch Automator
*Create a new “Service”
*Use the search function to look for “Copy to Clipboard” and drag that into the rightsize panel of the Service Set ‘Service receives selected’ to “files or folders” and ‘in’ to “Finder”.
*Save the Service with a name like “Copy Path”.
The result:
You'll now have the textual path in your clipboard.
Sources: CNet,
OSX Daily
A: Right click on the file, hold down Alt/Option, and an item to copy file path will appear as Copy "<FILENAME>" as Pathname.
This is the easiest option for day to day usage, without involving Automator.
This seems to be a relatively new feature that was added in OS X El Capitan. (It also works on macOS Sierra).
A: Simply drag the file into text editor, and it will give you the full path for that file.
A: Method 1:
In macOS holding the ALT key(⌥) often shows extra options in context menus.
Copy "item" as Pathname.
Detail https://apple.stackexchange.com/a/318007/302207
Method 2:
If you use TotalFinder, you can Allow path copying from Context Menus
TotalFinder makes it really easy to capture a variety of path formats for a selected object. Right-click on any file or folder, select Copy Path, and select the path format you'd like copied to the clipboard.
TotalFinder setting path:
A: Starting in El Capitan (OS X v10.11), this is really easy:
*
*Select the item(s) in the Finder
*Press Command-Option-C (or hold the Option key down and choose Edit menu > Copy [whatever] as Pathname.
A: As already described by ayaz, the Get Info window (cmd+i) has the full path and will allow you to copy it. If you tripple click in the highlighted area (by the red rectangle) the selection will automatically expand to the whole path. cmd + c will suffice to copy it to the clipboard.
If you need the path to interact with the Terminal, you can always check one of the “zillion” answers in this Stack Overflow Question.
UPDATE: This method seems to be only valid for OS X 10.6.x, previous OS X versions used the non-POSIX path style that looked like path:to:file, whereas the POSIX would be path/to/file. If you are in something older than OS X 10.6, you will have to try one of the other methods described in the other answers (or upgrade to 10.6 ;)
A: This is how to create a Service to copy to the clipboard the selected paths in Finder:
*
*Open Automator. Press ⌘+N and choose Service.
*Set "Service receives selected files or folders in Finder.app".
*Drag the element "Run Shell Script" to the window.
Note: You can select this element if you go to the left of the window and click on Actions, Library, and type part of the name in the search box.
*Set "Shell: /bin/bash", "Pass input: as arguments" and type the following in the script box: for f in "$@" do echo "$f" done.
*Drag the element Copy to Clipboard.
*Save your service in ~/Library/Services/Copy POSIX Paths.workflow (or any other name you like).
Now you will be able to run this service if you right click an element and choose Services > Copy POSIX Paths. It will copy the file(s) selected in Finder to your clipboard. I tested this on Lion.
I got this tip from Kris Johnson's Blog.
A: I will move my comment over as an answer.
You should be able to copy the path to a folder/file by highlighting the value next to "Where:" in the info dialog and pressing CMD+c.
An easier alternative that requires less effort is right-clicking on that value, and clicking "Copy" in the drop-down that appears.
A: *
*Start automator
*Create a new service
*Set the service to acquire files and folder in the finder, and add the run applescript element
*Paste this script
on run {input, parameters}
set mylist to {}
repeat with elem in input
try
set the end of mylist to (POSIX path of (elem as alias))
end try
end repeat
set oldtid to AppleScript's text item delimiters
set AppleScript's text item delimiters to {return}
set flatlist to mylist as text
set AppleScript's text item delimiters to oldtid
tell application "Finder" to set the clipboard to flatlist
-- code below will also create an email with the path inside. delete it if you don't want that.
tell application "Microsoft Entourage"
set theMessage to make new outgoing message with properties {subject:myFileName, content:flatlist}
open theMessage
activate
end tell
end run
*Save the result as 'copy and email path' or something.
*Now check your ctrl-click menu and your services menu. Nice!
A: Sometimes the solution is so simple.
Just mark the file in the finder and then press Command-C. The path including the file name is copied to the clipboard and you can paste it in any application.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2731",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "28"
} |
Q: View PDF in Preview in Full Screen? Is there any way to view a PDF in Preview in Full Screen? Quick Look works, but it doesn't have the 'remembering the page you were looking at' feature that I like.
A: View > Slideshow (or Shift+Command+F).
A: Install MegaZoomer, it'll give you nice fullscreen viewing in Preview.
Update: Note that OS X Lion will give you this feature.
A: ctrl+cmd+f
by using this combination, you can also zoom in pages in fullscreen.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2732",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: How do I take a screenshot on the iPad? How do I create an image, containing a copy of the current screen display, on the iPad?
A: Press both the sleep/wake and the home button simultaneously, and release quickly. The screenshot will be taken (in any app) and saved as an image, available within the Photos app.
A: The Apple Pencil is the fastest way to screen shot an iPad since the buttons may be hard to reach. This also plays well into the new markup tools so you can quickly transform / edit and then share out that screen shot.
*
*swipe your Apple Pencil from the bottom-corner on either side of your iPad screen to take a screenshot
*you can also press the sleep/volume up buttons - release them together to snap
*you can also use accessibility + assistive touch to take a screenshot
Some great markup tips are at iMore: https://www.imore.com/screenshot-ipad
Apple’s markup guide is also quite helpful once you have your screenshot: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT206885
A: Press both the home button and the power button at the same time. This will save the screenshot to Photos. You can then edit the screenshot as you would a normal photo. I've noticed the screenshot comes in handy whenever you want to copy a photo, but are blocked from downloading it. :)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2737",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: How can I reduce the volume of music on my iPhone? Some songs on my iPhone are quite loud. I've got the volume on the lowest step, but it's still too loud.
I'm using Apple's in-ear headset; perhaps it's simply louder than the regular one. At least I can play music at a much lower volume with it, so the "perceived" volume of the songs is louder.
I have already turned on "Sound Check" in the Settings. That helped some already, but not enough.
How can I reduce the volume even further?
A: Without resorting to using an audio program to normalize the tracks (which you might eventually have to do if you want to make it “the right way™”), you can select the track(s) you want to lower in iTunes and CMD + i to “get info”, go to the Options tab and manually reduce the track’s volume.
You can have multiple track selections and the adjustment will apply to all the selected tracks.
I am not 101% sure if this is carried over the iPhone/iPad (although it should). If that’s not the case, you will need an Audio Editor like Amadeus Pro (there might be others, I happen to have that one and it’s very good, but might be overkill for what you need).
In your favorite editor, open the mp3 (or whatever format you have) and find the Audio Effect usually called Normalize and lower the dBs:
If you have to modify a lot of tracks, Amadeus Pro has a nice Batch Processor which is some sort of “automator” home made.
The powerful batch processor allows you not only to convert large numbers of files between any of the supported formats, but you can also instruct Amadeus Pro to apply any sequence of sound effects.
See how I have added a Normalize −15dB to the “actions”.:
note: I don’t work for HairerSoft or Amadeus. There might be other editors (some freeware) that do the same thing, but the idea is the same. I know this one does it and excellently because I have it. :)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2740",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: High volume battery for MacBook Pro Can you advise me of where or if it a high capacity battery exists to replace my pre unibody battery on a MacBook Pro?
A: A quick search turned up Fastmac replacement batteries which claim to
...replace the computer’s original battery with a larger capacity and longer lasting advanced power cell battery that utilizes TruePower technology. With up to 68% more capacity...
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2741",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: How do I keep my session when I reboot in OS X? When I reboot my machine, I'd like it to reopen all my programs and windows, and put them back in the same place, after restarting. how do I do this?
(I'm on 10.6, and use spaces)
A: ReLaunch does what you want. Also see a similar question on SuperUser.
The only major limitation of Relaunch is it does not (yet) support Spaces (virtual desktops).
A: You can start as many application at startup by adding them to your Account Prefs :
For the windows... I don't think there is an easy way to do it. But if it's some documents, you can added them the same way.
A: I started an Applescript to start up the applications that make the core of my day, though I need to add in more functionality like opening specific URLs and folders (though it wouldn't be hard, I just haven't had the time).
tell application "Firefox"
activate
end tell
tell application "Versions"
activate
end tell
tell application "NetNewsWire"
activate
end tell
I saved it as an application, named it "AM" and it sits on the far left of my Dock. I come into my office in morning, wake up my Mac, and click the icon.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2746",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Design Ebook Cover In Pages I have a pages document that I want to copy a JPG into and make the JPG take up the whole first page with no margins. Then I want the rest of the pages to keep their margins as I've already specified.
I have the jpg copied into pages, but I can't make it any bigger than the margins and there is still a header and footer.
Thanks in advance!
A: Are you talking about an actual ePub ebook that you create from a Pages Word Processing document, or just a PDF you create from a Pages document?
If you make the image floating or in the background, you can move it around without being hindered by the margins or other text. To make your object floating or in the background, open the Inspector window (with the blue "i" icon in the toolbar), then click on "Wrap inspector" (third button from the left), and choose your Object placement.
However, converting to ePub removes floating objects, so if you want that, you should edit your eBook (using sigil for example) to add the first page back in. This is not too hard if you know some HTML.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2747",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How to delete emails instead of archiving them on iPhone & iPad? This summer Apple changed built-in mail app to support "archive" button (at least for GMail and GApps-based accounts), but I have found that I need to delete emails much more often than archive them. Right now the only way to delete them that I know is moving messages into Trash folder, which is quite cumbersome. Is there a way to bring back "delete" instead of "archive" button or any other way to quickly delete messages?
A: Ok, for iPad users. I just literally solved this.
I spent around an hour (I know) going through various forums and posts until.
Go to settings> Mail,contacts,calendars > account> advanced> and change the check box from archived messages to delete.
You also have some options for changing the folder paths here, but don't worry about it.
Save the changes and click done. And next time you swipe away a message it would have a red box with trash instead of archive.
You are welcome.
Bye
A: One way to do this is to setup gmail using IMAP-setup instead of the normal Gmail-setup. That way you can configure if you want the messages to be archived or deleted when you push the trash-icon.
You can find Gmail IMAP settings instructions here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQ22euWXYog
A: Simply go to Settings -> Mail, Contacts, Calendars -> Your Gmail Account and turn "Archive Messages" to "Off".
A: For iOS 13 in 2019:
Settings > Passwords & Accounts > yourEmail@example.com
Then:
Account > Advanced > Mail > Advanced > Move Discarded Messages Into:
Then select Archive Mailbox or Deleted Mailbox
This changes the iOS 13 Mail bottom toolbar icon to an Archive box or Trash can, respectively:
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2751",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: Using TextFree with a Google Voice account that uses Google Apps account Is there any way to get TextFree working with a Google Voice account belonging to a Google Apps account?
I have been able to get it working with a Gmail account by simply adding the user@textfree.us address to the forwarding text message option in Google Voice. The problem with a Google Apps account is that it doesn't let you add additional email addresses to that list.
It won't let me forward to the phone number that TextFree gave me, since I must verify the phone with audio (as opposed to a text message), and TextFree doesn't let me answer phone calls.
Is there any other way to get the three services to work together?
A: The way I solved this was by waiting to be invited to the TextFree beta which has voice. It will allow you to accept voice calls, which is what is required by Google Voice to verify a phone number.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2753",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Where did Mail.app just put my email? Mail.app seems built to punish us for not having inbox-zero.
I hear a chime telling me new mail has arrived, but with a list of mailboxes that look like:
how can I possibly tell which one has new new mail, as opposed to the old new mail? Or better yet, is it possible to make an email's newness expire after a certain period?
A: Create a Smart Mailbox with "Message is Unread" and sort it by Date Received.
I have this setup as my default mailbox for processing my email. I also have the Mail.app dock icon badge set to point to this Mailbox so I can see how much unread mail I have, though in your case this won't be an advantage.
Pro Tip. Just mark all those messages as unread read. You're never going to read them.
A: When I used Mail, I had a lot of smart mailboxes, but one of the most used ones (and their main conditions) where:
UNREAD (message is unread)
TODAY (date received is TODAY)
YESTERDAY (date received is YESTERDAY)
WEEK (date received is within 7 days from now)
MONTH (date received is within 30 days from now).
FLAGGED (message is flagged)
And every year, I’d create a (new) one like this:
2010 (message is received between 1/1/2010 and 31 dec 2010).
2009 (like 2010, but with the correct dates)
etc.
Those ones were inside a folder. It allowed me to group messages by year, because sometimes I needed a message that I got in 2008…
Of course I’d add other conditions like not in spam/trash, etc. Sometimes you have to “nest” smartmailboxes. Like have one that is message is not in spam or thrash. And then a new smart mailbox that says: Message is not in + other conditions.
The reasoning behind all this smartmailboxing is that once you start getting thousands of emails, searching in mail is not fast. For that reason I switched to Gmail, but that’s just my personal preference.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2758",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Decimal comma in Spanish keyboard layout I have a Spanish layout keyboard (in Snow Leopard). Whenever I use the dot, or comma, in the numeric keyboad (right of the 0) it always shows a comma, but I'd prefer if it entered a dot, just like PCs do. Otherways, entering IP addresses, or decimal numbers when coding is a PITA. How can I do that?
I have tried altering my regional settings so that the decimal separator is a point and the thousands separator is a comma, but that doesn't seem to affect text entry.
I'd prefer changing some regional setting rather than remapping the keyboard, but I'll accept any answer that works - short of changing the regional layout of the keyboard, I really need my diacritics there.
A: You need to change the layout of your keyboard. Not to another one, but to a new one that has been modified by an utility like Ukelele (there might be others).
Download the tool, drag the App to your Application folder. Notice that in the Disk Image, there’s a folder called System Keyboards/Roman/, copy that to you desktop (it’s temporal).
Launch Ukelele and from the File menu select: “New based on…”
Open the file Spanish-ISO.keylayout (found in the Roman folder that you saved to your desktop).
You’ll see a big blue keyboard representing your current Spanish-ISO map (if you brought your computer in Spain, that’s they keyboard you should use).
Double click on the “,” that you want to modify (or any other key) and you’ll see this:
Replace the “,” with the “.” (dot). And go to Keyboard Menu -> Set Keyboard Name. Rename the Spanish - ISO to something like: Spanish - ISO2.
Now save it, the name will be Untitled, but you should put Spanish - ISO2.
Where do you save it?
According to Ukelele’s User Manual, you have different choices (and I suggest your read section 3.3 of the manual). Short answer is within the Keyboard Layouts sub-folder of the Library folder in your home folder. This can be created if it doesn’t already exist. If you do that, only your user will see (and be able to use) this Layout.
After installing the keyboard layout and logging out and logging in again, open the International pane of System Preferences (Language & Text on Mac OS X 10.6 (Snow Leopard) and later). On the Input Menu (Input Sources in 10.6 or later) tab, your new keyboard layout should be listed there. Enjoy your faster IP Address typing.
A: KeyRemap4MacBook solves this problem as well, without having to set up a completely different keyboard layout in Ukelele. Simply enable the "Swap Dot and Shift+Dot" option in the "Change Keypad Key" section.
A: In macOS Sierra, you have to Ctrl+Shift+, in numeric pad to obtain a regular dot.
Found this trying to do the same as everyone else and discovered it was different now.
Hope this helps.
UPDATE: in macOS Mojave, you can also use Ctrl+Alt+, in numeric pad to obtain a regular dot. I found some apps (I'm looking at you Slack) don't allow the original answer, but do the update.
A: Just discovered an alternative solution, and at least for me a much better one, which does NOT require keyboard remapping and works on other people's macs too:
press shift when you press the comma on the numeric keypad, it will be entered as a point (at least in snow leopard (osx 10.6))
(As I have a Belgian keyboard layout, I've used the keyboard remapping solution [using Ukulele] for some time, but it didn't play well with all applications, e.g. Eclipse)
A: David's answer was extremely helpful! Give a try to KeyRemap4MacBook
The app is clumsy & little buggy but does the job.
On my Spanish - ISO keyboard layout had to enable/change:
*
*KeyPad-Dot(.) to Command+X (Cut) with Italian (What?)
*KeyPad Comma(,) to Dot(.) on "Italian Pro Input Source"
A: You can also use a tool like Keyboard Maestro. I’ve set it up like this:
*
*Triggered by: The Hot Key Key Pad . is pressed
*Action: Insert Text ‘,’ by Pasting
It works surprisingly fast without having to create a new keyboard layout or remap keys.
A: I use the app Better Touch Tool that allows you to do so all sorts of customizations with gestures and the keyboard. I just added a keyboard assignment that essentially mapped shortcut "pad ," to "." and it works perfectly.
A: The app its now called Karabiner. I figure it out on spanish ISO but I think it can be applied to all layouts.
In the simple modifications tab, after you have set up the app:
*
*Select your target device on the list.
*Add item in the bottom left corner
*From Key: Keypad_period - To key: Period (.)
A: There is NO need for an external program.
Create a file named DefaultKeyBinding.Dict under ~/Library/KeyBindings/ (/Users/<username>/Library/KeyBindings/), create the KeyBindings folder if it doesn't exists.
Paste the text below inside the file, save it and restart/logout-login to make it work.
{
"#," = ("insertText:", ".");
}
Also, here is a gist with more configuration options.
A: Ctrl+, (just for the comma in numeric keyboard) yields to a . (dot) when in spanish layout.
Oddly enough this works in terminal and in some text editors (like textwrangler). MacVim, for instance, just renders a . when using , in numeric keyboard. And TextMate just ignores this modifier and prints a ,
... You know, the good thing about apple stuff is that it "just works".
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2767",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "12"
} |
Q: Are there any simple, zippered "sleeve" cases for the iPod Touch? I'm looking for a simple, zippered "sleeve" case for an iPod Touch (like a laptop sleeve, only smaller). I'm interesting in something styled like Case Logic's zippered digital camera cases, such as this one or this one. Those would be perfect, except the Case Logic website warns that they are too small to fit an iPod Touch (by about half an inch). I've looked at Incase's offerings, too, but they don't sell anything like these.
I'm primarily interesting in protecting the iPod's screen while carrying it in a pants or jacket pocket. Many of the iPod cases I've found either don't cover the screen, or are, frankly, kind of ugly and gaudy.
A: You might look at this one.
http://www.sfbags.com/products/iphone-cases/travelcase-iphone.php
I have a sleevecase from that same vendor for my MBP, and it's been great.
A: There's a lot of different options around out there. Here's two I've found:
*
*iHome NXT Protective Speaker Case for iPod
*Carrying Case for Apple iPod Classic / Nano / Touch / iPhone
And while you might not think of it, there are several possibilities on Etsy as well. If you find one there that's close to what you want but not quite right, you can always ask the maker if they do custom work.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2773",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
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