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Q: Round iPod connector My car stereo claims to support my iPod touch, and has an iPod connector that is round. The car is second-hand, and no cable was supplied. It isn't the specific adapter shown below - nor indeed that specific ipod, but it is the same connector - and simply, I don't recognise it.
Searching for "round ipod cable" hasn't been fruitful. is this a common/known connector type?
A: My first thought on seeing that was that it looks like a 9 pin DIN connector. So I did a quick Google and it looks like there are such things as 9 pin DIN to iPod leads. This lead for example looks to match (though the picture quality is rubbish so it's hard to tell).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2170",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: I updated my iPod touch (3g) to the iOS 4, but my hard drive filled up 1/2 way through Part way through the iOS 4 update on my touch 3g my c: reached capacity. After clearing off some space I restarted iTunes. Now iTunes (and my touch) think that the latest version is installed. The touch still works fine, and it thinks it's running version 4, but it doesn't have any of the version 4 features! Is there anyway to force it to install version 4 again without doing a restore?
A: Since yesterday there is the iOS 4.1 update. Maybe this can be installed without problems. Or, you should be able to reset the iPod (use the link "restore iPod" under "search for updates", maybe different words, I'm using German iTunes).
BTW: You didn't try to update your iPod Touch to iPhone 4 but to iOS 4 ;)
A: Warning: I am not a qualified Apple support rep, so I'm not sure if the method prescribed here will work (i.e., caveat emptor), or put your phone in deeper trouble, but try this link, which has directions and links to the 4.0 "Gold Master" firmware.
Once you do this, if it works, when you update, also click on your iTunes iPod Touch "Summary Tab" button: "check for update" so you can then download and install iOS4.01 (which fixes a critical security vulnerability).
A: Put it into DFU mode.
Try this link for more info.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2172",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Is it possible to upgrade my jailbroken iPod Touch 2G to 4.0 (not 4.0.2) without losing data? I am currently considering update my second generation iPod Touch to the 4.0 firmware (not 4.0.2 because I need to jailbreak it). I know that if I update the firmware, I will lose the jailbreak. But is it possible to update it without losing music/videos/apps/etc?
All the instructions I found involve going into DFU mode, and afaik, you lose all your songs/data when you go into DFU mode.
I have my SHSH on file with Cydia, so that is not a problem.
A: As far as I'm aware, if you make a full backup through iTunes, do the upgrade, and restore your data, you will retain the valid apps' data only.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2176",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Is there an iPod locator? I know the iPhone does that, using me.com, but I don't know anything similar for iPods. I have an iPod touch and, sometimes, I forget where I leave it, only knowing it's on my house.
If it was my cell, I would dial the number and listen. Is there a similar app for iPods?
A: Your question and Webs' answer answer the question. With me.com, you can send an instant message to your iPod touch. Surely it needs WiFi turned on to receive the message. Additionally you can make the iPod beep for 120 seconds, and you can lock or reset it from remote.
A: My guess is that most locating apps work using location services. Location services works by either triangulating the cell phone over cell connection or GPS. The iPod does not have a GPS or cell radio in it.
I have heard of location services using WiFi location, but then you would need location services installed and my guess is that it is not installed on the iPod. However, if it is, then you could connect to WiFi, turn on location, download an app to find your device, and then find it over WiFi. But accuracy is going to be hindered greatly using location over WiFi. Not to mention you would have to have the WiFi radio on to even find the device in this scenario. Which is impractical and not a good idea for good battery life.
Another option would be an app that when activated turns on the speaker of the iPod and beacons. But you would need a way to remotely turn this feature on. The only options here are Bluetooth and WiFi. Again the idea is hindered by needing one of those two radios always on. Which is impractical.
Probably the best options is one of those key finders. Key Ringer (http://www.keyringer.com/) is one such company. But the downside is you will need one of those bulky devices always attached to the iPod.
A: MobileMe does this for iPod touches (if you have a paid account). You can also send a message and this will make a sound (if your iPod volume is high enough).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2178",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Do you still need to convert video for iPhone 4 (and now iPod Touch) Short of the filetype (alot of what I have I don't believe is supported by either device) Do I need to convert movies specifically for them? Or can I load them as is?
A: iTunes will convert some file types for you. For those you want to convert yourself (custom resolution, bitrate, etc) I like to use Handbrake. I'm also experimenting (right this moment actually lol) with AVIDemux.
But to answer your question, I guess it depends on what the original file type is. Here is the spec sheet from Apple.
Video formats supported: H.264 video
up to 720p, 30 frames per second, Main
Profile level 3.1 with AAC-LC audio up
to 160 Kbps, 48kHz, stereo audio in
.m4v, .mp4, and .mov file formats;
MPEG-4 video, up to 2.5 Mbps, 640 by
480 pixels, 30 frames per second,
Simple Profile with AAC-LC audio up to
160 Kbps per channel, 48kHz, stereo
audio in .m4v, .mp4, and .mov file
formats; Motion JPEG (M-JPEG) up to 35
Mbps, 1280 by 720 pixels, 30 frames
per second, audio in ulaw, PCM stereo
audio in .avi file format
A: Try an app called OPlayer. It plays just about anything, straight from a webserver or iTunes file transfer.
A: PunyVid
Converts videos specifically for iPhone/iPod.
A: There is an iphone-app called yxplayer that can play many more video formats than are supported natively by iTunes/iPod/iPhone. However, playback often judders, the UI is quite minimalistic, and it does not remember last playback position etc.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2181",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "-1"
} |
Q: How do I get good quality photos onto an iPod Touch? When I sync my photos with the iPod Touch, the photos are put on as very low quality. They do not even look good at full screen size and do not cope with zooming in to see details.
I can't find a setting in iTunes to control how match it compresses the photos.
A: You may want to try a re-sync if you recently updated to iOS 4.x
This resolved the issue for a user here:
http://forums.macrumors.com/showpost.php?p=10844169&postcount=2
this happened to me when I first upgraded my 3GS from 3.1.3 to 4.0, the moment the upgrade was complete, I unplugged my phone to browse the new features and I quickly noticed all my photos were low res, so I plugged my phone back to computer and hit sync, this time iTunes said "Optimizing Photos". Once that was complete, photos were back to normal.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2186",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Is it possible to download a podcast directly to an iPod Touch without jailbreaking? Specifically with the iPod Touch that was released in September 2010, is it possible to download a podcast directly to the unit. The answers that I've found so far involve jailbreaking, which I'm not interested in doing.
I would like to avoid having to use my main computer at all for managing podcasts, if possible.
A: You could always use a third party app like PodCaster.
A: On the iPhone which is more or less the same thing; in the iTunes application there is a podcast section under "More"
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2188",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "-1"
} |
Q: Does performance degrade between iOS 3.1 and 4.1 for the iPod Touch 2nd gen? I noticed a considerable performance degradation when updating to iOS 4.0; enough to downgrade back to 3.1.x. Has that issue been completely resolved in 4.1? Having to downgrade again would be a pain.
A: I've made the updates, and I didn't notice anything about a performance degradation.
A: I've finally gotten around to trying the 4.1 upgrade, and the responsiveness seems perfectly acceptable now.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2191",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Is there a battery conditioner for an iPod touch? My iPod Touch's battery is not performming as well as it should. I've had it for a while. Is there such thing as a battery conditioner that might help get the battery performance better?
A: Probably it's just getting old. Rechargable batteries wear out over time. About the best you can do is run the battery all the way down to 0%, such that it wont even turn on, and then charge it all the way back up to 100%, without unplugging it, leave it connected to the charger for several hours even after it's back to 100%. Repeat this a couple times, and see if it helps (no promises though).
A: Although this doesn't really answer your question so much, I thought I would add to what NJD said as it's important to understand where "conditioning" IS useful.
The only consumer batteries that really benefit from "conditioning" are lead-acid batteries (think: car starter, marine/RV, and motor scooter batteries.) Putting a lead-acid battery thru a reconditioning cycle can "de-sulfate" the plates in the battery giving it back some of its lost capacity.
NiMH and Li-Ion cells don't benefit from "conditioning". You'd just be putting your battery thru an extra deep discharge and charge cycle.
(Although, as NJD pointed out, doing this with a Li-ion battery can sometimes give a more accurate indication of actual run-time due to the recalibration of the circuitry that accompanies the Li-ion battery. It still doesn't improve the battery itself.)
A: The iPod Touch has a lithium-ion battery, which really does not need to be conditioned like the older battery technologies did.
In fact, completely discharging a lithium-ion battery too often can severely shorten its life, so I wouldn't recommend doing a full discharge too often. And I wouldn't recommend using something that goes outside the normal voltage range of the battery either.
Discharging occasionally, perhaps once every 30 charges, can help to calibrate the battery so that it can given a better indication of run-time.
Apple recommends discharging completely about once a month.
Lithium-ion has a limited life-span anyway, typically 300-500 cycles; and they degrade over time too. How quickly they degrade depends on how hot they've been stored.
(See Battery University for more information on this)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2192",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: How do I stop my iPod from playing audio books when I 'Shuffle Songs' On my main menu in my iPod, I frequently click 'Shuffle Songs' to play randomly through my songs. It manages not to include my podcasts but every once in a while will play a chapter from an audio book.
Is there a way to stop the Audio Books from mixing in with the music?
I have an iPod nano if that matters.
A: Audiobooks and podcasts are special categories in iTunes and on the iPod that won't mix into your music. If you manually add or rip them to your iTunes library, you will probably need to change their "Media Kind" to separate them from your music:
*
*Shift select a group of Audiobook tracks
*Choose "Get Info"
*Go to the "Options" Tab
*Change the list select for "Media Kind" to "Audiobook"
*click "Okay" to keep the changes
There is only 1 thing you can change about your music library while using just your iPod: the on-the-go playlist.
A: In iTunes, view info on the problem audio books and ensure "skip when shuffling" is checked.
A: There is a different file extension for Apple Audio Codec (AAC) files when they are audio books. If you use them, it will save you from having to flag anything specially, and it will be excluded from shuffle play automatically without you having to flag it as in the other answers.
*
*.m4a is used for music only, although
this is not carefully observed
enough.
*.m4b is used for books, and podcasts, and anything that needs to
remember a "bookmark". The b is for
bookmark, not for book.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2199",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: Can I take a hard drive from an iPod Video and put it in an older iPod? My 80gb iPod Video just died, and I'm pretty sure the hard drive still functions. If I buy an older black-and-white iPod, can I throw in the hard drive and expect it to Just Work?
A: Probably not.
You might have "form factor" issues, for one. But also, the two devices probably have different hardware, thus the software on the drives is probably incompatible.
Assuming that you don't have problem #1 (form factor), you'd still need to find a way to copy the image from the "older black-and-white iPod" over the 80GB drive before installing it back into the good iPod.
I think there are guides out there for this, but you're going to have to look around. I would start at the awesome DIY Fix-It site: http://www.ifixit.com/Guide
Otherwise, you may want to consider getting your iPod Video repaired: http://www.ipodrepair.com/
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2203",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Alpine CDE-102 keeps iPod awake until battery drains I have an Alpine CDE-102 w/iPod cable (professionally installed) with which I use with an old 5th gen iPod Video 30gb. My goal is to just leave the iPod in the glove compartment and only remove it once a week or so to sync.
The problem is that when I turn the car off the iPod doesn't go to sleep, it just stays paused in the low power mode (display dimmed but not off). It will stay this way until the battery drains.
I found that if I just switch the lock switch to unlocked and back to lock while leaving the iPod connected to the stereo, this "wakes" the iPod up and allows it to then go to sleep shortly thereafter without disrupting the "pause". I should note that I do not have any issues with the iPod going to sleep when it is not connected to the Alpine.
After playing with it some more, I discovered how to get it to sleep without touching the iPod. If I just turn the car off after running the engine, the iPod does as described above (paused but not sleeping). However, if I then turn the car back on to accessory (without starting the engine) and wait a couple of seconds for the stereo to begin to initialize (the 'Alpine' name appears on the display) and then turn the car off the iPod will go to sleep. There is something about just turning the engine off that leaves the iPod in an unsleepable pause.
Turning the car back on is a little awkward, but less annoying than opening the glove box and flipping the lock switch back and forth.
Has anybody else has similiar issues and found a better solution?
A: I've found that with my 5thGen iPod (30GB Video, same as yours) that if I hold down the "pause/play" button, it goes into a deep-sleep mode (display off). Then I quickly push the "lock" switch so that I don't turn it back on.
This seems to work well for keeping my iPod charged up.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2205",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: How do I take apart an Apple iPod Connector? The cable, not the part on the actual iPod.
A: Joke: it's easy to take it apart. Do you need it to be usable afterwards?
Thomas' suggestion is a good bet, but the pliers will likely damage the connector (the gray plastic).
But if you only care about the connector and not the housing (the white plastic), then you could cut the housing open without touching the connector itself.
It depends on what you want to do after you've taken it apart, but you don't mention that.
A: I actually had an issue with mine where I wanted to take it apart as well. The Apple brand cables don't seem to be very well-suited for travel, as the wire has detached from the connector on a few of mine.
Anyway, it looks like you may be able to CAREFULLY take a pair of pliers and pull the connector out of the plastic molding (on the iDevice side, not USB). I haven't tried it, so I'm not sure...let me know what you think.
Dunno if you're still interested in this, but I came across this one you can buy disassembled.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2207",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: How can I prevent my iPod from downloading album art? I have a first-gen iPod Nano 4GB. I live having album art in my iTunes library on my nice, big, fat, PC hard drive. However, I don't really need it on my iPod. I'd like to maximize the amount of music I can fit on there.
So, how much space is that album art taking up, anyway? Can I keep it from getting on the device without having to delete it all from iTunes?
A: There used to be an option in iTunes 8 that allowed toggling of album artwork on devices. This was removed in iTunes 9.
I also have your model Nano and would like to disable the artwork - only recourse for us is to leave feedback :(
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2210",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: What are some cheaper alternatives to Airport Express that allow music streaming? I have a Windows desktop and laptop (no Macs) and an Airport Express for listening to music in the living room. I also have sets of speakers in two other rooms. I don't want to spend another $200 just to redirect sound to other rooms.
Is there a cheaper alternative to Airport Express that would allow me to stream music from iTunes (on a Windows computer) to these distant speakers?
(I intend to control the music playlist/volume remotely via a mobile device)
A: Unfortunately, there aren't any products other than the Airport Express that are compatible with iTunes music streaming (unless something new has come out recently). However, it's usually very easy to find a used model online for much less; I was able to pick up two of them on Craigslist for about $30 apiece. They may not be the latest model, but if all you're interested in is streaming music, then any model will work just fine.
A: Yes - there are all sorts of wireless systems that work by plugging a cable into your mac's headphone port. The griffin iMic and others let you add another output via USB. Don't overlook Bluetooth audio like Belkin and others make.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2212",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: How can I turn off the photo preview when I plugin in my iPhone on my PC? When I plug in my iPhone 3GS into my Windows XP machine, it automatically opens up Word and displays a preview of all my photos from my phone.
I believe I may have accidentally selected an option to always do that. How do I turn it off?
A: *
*Connect your phone to the computer.
*In Windows, click Start > Settings > Control Panel > Scanners and Cameras.
*Right-click on "Apple iPhone" > Properties.
*Click the tab "Events".
*Click the radio button "Take no action". Then OK.
Now when you connect the phone, nothing should happen.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2214",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Can you FaceTime over 3G with jailbroken iPhone 4? Can you FaceTime over 3G with jailbroken iPhone 4?
If so, can you FaceTime in following situations?
*
*A initiates FaceTime over 3G with jailbroken iPhone 4. B is also on 3G with jailbroken iPhone 4.
*A initiates FaceTime over 3G with jailbroken iPhone 4. B is also on 3G with non-jailbroken iPhone 4.
*A initiates FaceTime over wifi connection. B is on 3G with jailbroken iPhone 4.
*A initiates FaceTime over wifi connection. B is on 3G with non-jailbroken iPhone 4.
A: Yes to all of your questions.
The Jailbreak app My3G tricks your iPhone into thinking it is on WiFi, enabling you to use FaceTime over 3G.
Source: http://www.macrumors.com/2010/08/02/facetime-over-3g-comes-to-jailbroken-iphone-4s/
A: Just to update an old question, this is now a carrier issue - most carriers either allow Facetime over cellular or have an option to pay for it.
A: 3G Unrestrictor does this as well, and it's available in Cydia, so you don't have to put Rock on your phone.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2216",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: iPhone 3GS on T-Mobile Connecting to iTunes Question I just purchased iPhone 3GS. Currently it is running Version OS 4.0.1. Now if I update my iTunes on my Mac and plug then connect the iPhone to the Mac to sync it then will it brick or not.
I need the latest version of iTunes on my Mac for iPhone development but I don't want to push the latest version of OS to my iPhone or else there is a danger of bricking the device!
Can someone please enlighten me with this?
A: Upgrading iTunes will not force you to upgrade iOS on your 3GS.
Upgrade your iTunes with 3GS disconnected. And when you connect your 3GS to iTunes it will say that an update is available and ask you "Download?" or "Download and Install?" From here, you can choose to just download the new iOS upgrade and not install.
This downloaded file will come in handy when you want to upgrade to jailboken version of that new iOS.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2219",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "-1"
} |
Q: Why can't I add or edit contacts on my new iPhone 4? On my new iPhone 4, I can add a new contact after talking to them (Add as new contact) but I cannot otherwise add new contacts, or edit existing ones.
It looks like a bug. Is there a way to work around it, or do I have to wait for Apple to fix their issue? The phone is not jailbroken.
A: You can use the Contacts application provided in the iPhone 4, and create/edit contacts in there.
A: What's preventing you from doing so?
The ability to add and edit contacts from the phone app is still available. I tested this just now on mine.
A: It seems that the problem occurs when adding contacts to these phones after updating to IOS 5 (the + sign on the corner right is missing). IOS 5 added iCloud and if your contacts are not turned ON from the iCloud settings, you won't be able to add, edit or delete contacts.
The Fix: turn ON your iCloud contacts settings from Settings > iCloud and you should see your + sign on the corner back again.
A: I had the exact same problem. Go to settings, then iCloud, go to the 'contacts' switch and set it to 'on' and it will fix your problem immediately.
A: just go to settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > if there is a accont (hotmail, g mail etc.) just delete the account and then automatically you can start adding contacts
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2224",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: iPhone 3GS, ATT MicroCell, iOS 4.0.1, failure to connect I was a very happy customer of my microcell until the upgrade to 4.0 and the subsequent patch. Now, at best, I can force an M-cell connection by flipping to airplane and back. I have completely reinitialized the M-cell. Is there way way around this except to whine to AT&T and wait for someone to fix something?
A: Try resetting your network settings. Many iPhone connectivity issues can be resolved with that.
A: I have had 3 MicroCells from ATT. The first lasted 29 days and then could not be re-synced, the second lasted 6 days and could not be re-synced. The third could not be re-synced from the outset. I finally took it back for credit. The serial numbers for all three were close enough together to be from the same manufacturing batch. I believe there is a component failre -- of the infant mortality variety -- in the cell circuit. In all three the GPS sync was not a problem.
A: Most recent advice from AT&T for iPhone 4 (assuming 3G, 3Gs, and 4Gs) and MicroCell connectivity.
*
*Unplug MicroCell for 30 seconds.
*Plug it back in.
*Turn off iPhone for 30 seconds.
*Turn it back on.
*Reset Network Settings on iPhone. (Under Settings -> General -> Reset Network Setting) This will cycle the iPhone (turn it on and off automatically) WARNING: Resetting this will require you to rejoin your network (if wireless) and to re-enter your password for the network. Make sure you have it before you do this!!!
*Wait until Friday when AT&T will call me back and explain why the iPhone won't force connect to the MicroCell when I get back to my house. Or when a random 1 bar of edge network signal is picked up and permanently disconnects it.
At the end of the day, the only success I've had is putting your phone into Airplane mode for a second and then turning Airplane mode off.
Take it or leave it, this is the best I've got right now.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2227",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: iPhone backlight blinks on then goes out. What are my options? This morning I woke up to find my iPhone dark. If I pressed the home button to turn on the screen, the backlight would flash on briefly and then die. I've turned it on and off, done a hard reboot (home+lock), and I'm in the process of trying a restore.
Has anyone ever seen a similar issue?
The phone was purchased last June with a contract from ATT from an Apple store. If I take the phone in, will they fix it or replace it?
What should I do next?
A: You should take your phone in. They will fix it if they can and it's cheaper for them than giving you a new.
If you try to fix it yourself they can put the blame on you, so don't touch the hardware.
A: It may be your proximity sensor. It's what causes the backlight to turn off when you put the phone to your face and turn back on when you move away. I was told that that's one of the few things Apple Care does actually cover.
But before you take it in, do you have a bumper on your iPhone? If so, it may be covering the sensor, which, while facing the phone, is just to the left of the earpiece. If your bumper (or maybe a dirty screen protector) is covering it, that may cause the screen to stay dark.
Hope this helps!
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2230",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Is iOS 4.1 faster than iOS 4.0 on the iPhone 3G? There are numerous questions (and good answers!) about the fact that iOS 4.0 is horribly slow on an iPhone 3G.
How about iOS 4.1? Does anybody have any positive experiences to share? I'm staying on 3.1.3 for a long time still, or until any new v4.x isn't any slower.
A: The rumours are that it is much faster: http://thenextweb.com/apple/2010/07/27/does-ios4-1-fix-slow-iphone3g-units-yes/
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2233",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: How can I install .deb files for Cydia manually (without wifi)? as I already said here my wifi is not working so I need to install Cydia .deb files like SBSettings, Installous, Winterboard etc. manually...well I did, but they wont work properly. I got some .deb files from various website, added them on my device in the cydia install folder, so far so good. I restarted my iphone, the icons showed up (Installous, winterboard) but when I open up Cydia and go to the packages they have a redish background (something like "hey there is something wrong"). Is something wrong with the files or the manual install is not good?
SBSettings -> Respring works, "more" work, the toggle icons don't show up (wifi, bluetooth, openSSH etc).
Installous -> Added some .ipa files to my device, they show up on download tab on my device but no icons show up (they are blank). I hit install but i get an error like "Error building SBCache" then "Installed" but they are not installed.
Winterboard -> works.
So any solution to that problem?
3G 16GB - 3.1.2 - 05.13.04
A: You can add .deb files and install apps from apptrackr, etc.. using the app iFunbox. I actually just used it the other day to locally upload my custom sms-tone pack. So download your needed .deb files from online, then transfer and install them via the program iFunbox.
http://www.i-funbox.com/
A: This might be because certain Cydia apps have other requirements. When you download an app from Cydia it checks to make sure that you have the foundational files for that app to work installed, if not then it installs them itself. If you don't have those, some .deb files might not work properly.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2237",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: How can I watch MegaVideo/DivX videos on my jailbroken iPhone 3G? I'm looking for a way to play megavideo (flash) and divx on my iPhone 3G which is jailbroken. Flash seems to require 3G S and above (like everything these days sigh)
Should I be able to do this, I will be able to replace my Sky box with my iPhone, as I can get live TV on there through TV catchup and access my iTunes library, I just need to be able to stream flash and divx and I'm set.
I've tried imobilecinema and that didn't play any audio or video and openstream (vlc4iphone) didn't work either.
A: Flash does not run on any version of the iPhone. You can try using a program like Air Video which will live transcode your DiVX files into a format the iPhone will play back using your computer.
As for playing it natively on your iPhone, VLC (Video Lan Client) is working on a native client but it's not available in the App Store yet.
A: You can try yxplayer on Cydia.
It's a pretty robust app which supports multiple formats.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2238",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Gmail on iPhone app : pictures broken The native Gmail iPhone 4 app on my phone behaves weird, it is not showing pictures that come as attachment, when I click on the picture it starts downloading the picture but it displays those classic picture not available pic with a question mark. I tried deleting account and adding it again still no luck..
Any clue?
I'm on iOS 4.1
A: I haven't found anything that officially says there's an iPhone file-size limitation, but I have noticed that over 3G, some larger pictures will not download to my mailbox. Try over WiFi or get 3G Unrestrictor and see what happens.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2239",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: What can I do once my jailbroken iPhone gets a data plan attached by AT&T? I noticed my phone bill had a data plan attached this month to my jailbroken iPhone -- is there any way to get around this?
A: You're going to have to talk to AT&T and have them remove the data plan, unless you're under contract for a data plan (as all new iPhones are) they should be able to take it off your next bill. Jailbreaking really doesn't have anything to do with this.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2241",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Sand in iPhone 3G S The volume controls on my iPhone 3G S are pretty hard lately. It works, but I need to press very hard on them to change volume. I am afraid that some sand went inside, but I am not sure about that.
Any hint to fix it?
Thanks!
A: Buy a couple cans of compressed air, hold one right side up and spray into any areas you think sand crept into. See if that helps.
You could also try going to AT&T or an Apple store, maybe they would do a free cleaning?
If not you can hunt around Google for articles on how to open up your iPhone and give it a full cleaning. FYI, you can damage the phone and void your warranty doing this so just beware what you are doing.
A: DON'T press those volume buttons anymore until you have fixed the problem! Continuing to press the buttons will only make it worse, and you risk seriously damaging the electronics.
From your description it sounds like the hardware underneath the volume switch is broken. It will not get better, only worse over time. I'd suggest to have the phone serviced as long as it's otherwise still in good condition, or give up and replace it sooner than planned.
You could also try to repair it yourself by opening it up and cleaning that switch, but it might not even be possible, and worse: you risk breaking your phone. Have it serviced instead.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2243",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Do I need a screen protector for my new touch-screen smartphone? With my old dumbphone I never really worried about the screen, but my new iPhone 4 has a pretty gorgeous screen that I certainly would never want to come to harm. So I was wondering how many people out there use a screen protector, and what your experience has been.
Specifically:
*
*Do you use a screen protector for your smartphone?
*Do they interfere with touch-sensitivity of a touch-screen?
*Are all screen protectors created equal? Are there "good" ones and "bad" ones?
*Are they more resistant to fingerprints than the glass?
*Do they get grimey/dirty/cloudy?
*Are they harder to clean than the glass, or do you just replace it?
*How often would you need to replace it?
*With glass on the back of my iPhone4, do I need one on the back as well? Or is that just stupid?
I guess the most important question is:
*
*Do they really protect the screen in any meaningful way? Or do they just make you feel better?
A: I'm afraid I'm going to have to disagree with sebastiaan on almost all points, just to complete the spectrum :)
*
*Yes, I've almost always had a screen protector on my smartphone.
*Sometimes the screen protector interferes with the touch screen. Depends on the quality of the touch screen, and the screen protector but in most cases you might notice a slight change in responsiveness.
Are all screen protectors created equal? Are there "good" ones and "bad" ones?
*Very yes. Some are just clear stickers, others (like my favorites Invisible Shield) are the same material used to keep dust from messing up helicopter blades)
*Sometimes. This goes along with the quality of the screen protector. But in most cases there will be less fingerprint smudging.
*They can get dirty if they're low quality, or not applied carefully. Usually lint or dirt will get its way into the edges and start to peel it off. How well this works depends on the screen protector and the surface you apply it to. But if you're just covering the screen you should be fine.
*Usually just wiping it on my pants will get rid of most day to day dirt on it. The big advantage is that if you get something stuck on it, you can scratch it off without worrying about your screen!
*I had a full body protector on a blackberry tour for nearly a year before it started to peel off, and it really only started to come off on the curved surfaces. I pulled off alot of the body protector, but left the screen protector on, and it's still going strong.
*The invisible shield (I swear I don't work for them) can be bought as a full body kit, considering the shape and material of the iPhone4 I would say it's not stupid. You want to protect the phone to keep it looking nice, then treat the front like the back, since they're essentially the same thing.
A: *
*No, I hate screenprotectors
*Most of them really don't
*There are certainly bad ones, that are hard to apply or peel off easily, I've even had one that would blur the screen
*Only the ones that blur your screen ;-) They have a slightly matte finish so fingerprints won't be as obvious
*Yes, yes, and yes.
*I suggest you just replace them, they're not that expensive
*I believe it is all stupid...
They just make you feel better. The glass on the new iPhone is incredibly difficult to scratch, and even the older ones hardly scratch at all. I suggest you stop caring so much about a little scratch, the device is supposed to be used. You'll hardly notice it if there even ARE tiny scratches.
If you want to protect it, what you really need to worry about is the thing breaking after you drop it, try a protective case instead. :-)
A: I did not use one for my iPhone as the screen is glass and hard to scratch.
I am using one for my Nexus One because the screen is plastic and probably easy to scratch. Since putting the screen protector on I have stopped using the case. I am using the Invisible Shield that Alex likes.
A: I would have said no, you don't need a screen protector on your phone. I've never used one on the iPhone, Palm Treo, Nintendo DS, etc.
Then my wife dropped her iPhone and the screen cracked. We're going to get her a screen protector now, so she can keep using the phone without worrying about it scratching her.
A: I see that you have marked as an accepted answer. However, there is another proof that screen protectors these days have more essentials than Corning Gorilla Glass that protects well from scratches. As I took some few research, I found some useful benefits why people prefer screen protectors in the following:
*
*Prevents heavy scratches
*Easier to clean fingerprints
*Can resist screen breakage from an impact
Not all the times that glass technology always invulnerable to scratches. When it say "scratch resistant" it means no scratches in a certain number of times. Also, like other usual glasses do, it breaks like fragile glass when it falls. You may check the Upgrade Your Life blog post about useful truth about screen protectors, including some video and descriptions and find out what I really mean.
A: The Glass is pretty scratch resistant. Yes they do protect the screen a bit. I like my device to be like they designed it. So do not want to add layers and bult to screen. My one compromise is that I always use a "bumper" cover. the glass on Iphone front and back is tough, but eventually in a two year that you normally use a phone you will eventually drop it. Cracked glass normally goes with a otherwise functioning device, but it is definately not nice.
I have also found that some covers which are supposed to protect the phone, eventually gets some dust between the cover and device. Do that and the device will look worse than the unprotected oen in the end.
If you are very disciplined and careful... go naked
If you like me tend to be clumsy (over a two year period) ... get some edge protection.
A: If you get a nice warm feeling from knowing that your phone is mint underneath that scratched scratch-protection then get a cover and/or screen protector. Otherwise don't bother.
I used a Zagg InvisibleShield on my iPhone 3G from the beginning. Result: The phone is scratchless but the shield needs regular replacement. This might be useful if I'd ever sell the phone, but when passing the phone down in the family, it doesn't add value.
Exception: old devices with delicate plastic touchscreens: it's a good idea to use a screen protector here simply because the stylus will scratch the plastic screen. Here, it's a good idea to replace the screen protector every year or so. But today's devices have much tougher screens, and who owns and uses a device for more than two years anyway? (I do, personally, but most people replace their stuff too often to care about short-term wear.)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2246",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "14"
} |
Q: What is the best method to apply a screen protector to a touchscreen? Installing a screen protector on a touchscreen is not always easy. Bubbles and dust can make your screen look horrible. What is the best method/procedure you have found to apply a screen protector?
A: First I make sure the screen is completely clean using a micro-fiber cloth, then I use a credit card with the cloth wrapped around to press the screen protector tightly as soon as it touches the screen.
The trick is to press, making a forward/backward movement, the protector against the screen as soon as it touches it, removing any bubbles in the process. So don't try to put the protector all at once.
A: I live in a dry climate, so preventing dust from settling on the screen during application is one of the biggest concerns. Another is in getting it aligned just right. Here are some additional steps have used to get the absolute best results.
Note: this involves using water and electronics together, so you must be very careful to use the absolute minimum amount of water and the absolute maximum amount of care. It could void your warranty, ruin your device, and/or inflict serious personal injury. Perform at your own risk!
Supplies
*
*Unopened screen protector
*A shower or bathroom you can steam up (dry/dusty climates)
*Microfiber cloth (I like the 3M Microfiber dusting cloth I picked up at the Grocery store)
*Canned air (just in case)
*Fine mist water sprayer (the InvisiShield screen protectors from Zagg come with a great sprayer filled with what I can only guess is distilled water)
*Small squeegee or something like it (credit card, etc.)
Procedure
*
*Steam up your bathroom or shower by running very hot water in your shower. This will help ensure airborne dust is minimized
*Wash your hands throughly to remove oils from your fingerprints.
*After you shut off the water, bring your supplies in.
*Clean the screen using the microfiber cloth. Inspect it carefully. Use the canned air if necessary. No dust should be visible at all.
*Peel off the backing of your screen protector (don't touch the back, handle only with the sites)
*Spray a very fine mist of water to the sticky side of the screen protector. This will make it easier to align your screen protector precisely.
*Position the screen protector at one end, using the squeegee lightly as you go to push out bubbles. The water will form a thin film that makes it much easier to push out bubbles to the edge.
*Once everything is in place and you have inspected for dust, use the squeegee and the microfiber cloth to push out bubbles and the thin water film to the edges. Use the microfiber cloth to absorb water as it squirts out from under the protector, especially around buttons, case edgings, seams, and and other openings.
*Sometimes, a small bit of water is trapped under the screen protector, but in my experience it goes away after a couple of days in a dry climate.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2250",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: Is it my imagination or do iPods charge faster using a car charger? Maybe I'm crazy, but it sure seems like when I plug my electronics (iPhone, iPod, etc.) into a car charger it gets up to a full charge MUCH faster than if I use a regular charger and an outlet.
Do these devices charge faster from car adapters, or am I imagining this? If so, why?
A: The answer to this question is that "it depends" and it is actually quite possible that your car charger is charging your devices faster than the AC charger you use at home. In both cases, there is significant power available at the source to do the charging relative to the number of watts being used to charge the device. That is, both the AC wall outlet and the cigarette lighter socket are both going to have "hundreds" of WATTS available if not more whereas the device being charged is only going to be consuming maybe "tens" of WATTs at the most during peak charging rates.
Therefore what makes the difference is the amount of power being OUTPUT by the particular charger itself....you just need to check the ratings of the charger and see how much power than can each OUTPUT. The output power is simply VOLTS times AMPS for the DC power that your device is likely to be using.
Some wall chargers that are very inexpensive have very small power supplies in them and only put out a limited amount of charging current at the rated charging voltage for your device. Others may be quite a bit beefier and will be output up to or above the maximum the device will take. Similarly for the car adapter.
Given that the DC source from the car is directly available and a very low cost regulator can be used to generate a regulated charging voltage without having to convert using a switching power supply from an AC line, it seems more than likely that you have a car charger that charges quicker than your home unit. Also, it is possible that the device accepts a variable input DC voltage and can take the 9V to 12V range from the car directly. In this case, it is quite possible that the car charger will end up delivering significantly more charging power than the AC charger.
A: The amount of power you draw from cars is quite limited, so it must be your imagination. The reason is probably because you are doing something instead of going back and forth checking. So it's more your sense of time that's different.
A more detailed explanation:
Typically what you get from a car at it's raw state, is something like 9-12 volts. What you get from your house is around 200-300 Volts, it depends where in the world you live. When you're changing a small gizmo, like iphone/ipad, that has a small power usage, 9-12 volts is just fine. However if you were to charge a laptop you would see what I mean. You would have to convert the 9-12 volts to 200-300, (a factor of 20-30) and would thus have to decrease the amperage with the same factor. The result would be that your laptop could hold power for a longer period of time, but would eventually go flat.
So there is a limit to how much power (Walt) you can draw from a car, and it will always be a lot lower than what you can get at home. If you are a skilled electrician you could raise the amount of power by accessing the car battery directly.
Now why isn't it a lot faster to charge your iphone at home?
Well it easily could be, but charging a battery at a very high pace, will also create a lot of heat. Apple have probably taken this into consideration when they created the charger for the iPhone. A balance between having a low charge time, without heating the battery too much which could risk the health or just the durability of the phone.
A: I'll disclaim this post by stating upfront I am no sort of electrical engineer, but two things stick out to me as possibilities:
*
*Phones operate on DC power. Any charging effort has to ensure the power is being delivered in DC form. This means charging from the AC outlet has to do a conversion, where as the power from the outlet on your car only has to be regulated. Which brings me to my second point..
*The power from your car is already in DC form. If regulated correctly, it should be no different from the wall charger. If you're seeing drastically different charging times I would suspect either the wall charger is limited to prevent too much heat buildup, or your car charger is allowing more direct charging to occur (maybe at the expense of your battery?)
Maybe batteries are 40VDC in Denmark, but they are (mostly) 12VDC in the US (which seems to be where the OP is from). Any car should have more than enough power to charge a phone. My Blackberry charger is only 5V 700mA. My truck has 12v with 30amp circuits... if not regulated I would probably have a fireball on my hands in a matter of seconds. ;)
Just something to consider...
A: My iPhone charges twice as fast when being charged with a 3rd party after market charger in the car (DC), as opposed to the Apple AC charger.
In my case DC is definitely faster
A: My experience is the car charger I use restores my iPhone battery at a FAR GREATER speed than does any device at home: my USB charger in the wall, my USB charger at my computers, and my iHome and other stereo docks. It's not even close—maybe as much as 4 or 5 times fewer minutes to full recharge.
A: Ok... I'm going to put this in simple terms... most car chargers, especially the cheaper ones, don't have voltage regulators on them. This WILL cause them to charge your phone faster. Some CHEAPER chargers don't have them either and will do the same. HOWEVER, you should know home chargers are designed to be slower and "trickle charge" your battery because this is safer. Speed charging damages the battery in time and will limit your battery's charge capacity even though it will read full. If you look on your home charger it will state this.
For example: my home charger says on it,
input 100-240v
Output 5.1v
Why would my BRAND NAME MOTORLA CHARGER want to lower the voltage output? Because it prolongs battery life. This link has a little more tech talk in it on the subject... slightly. http://chris.pirillo.com/are-mobile-car-chargers-good-for-phone-batteries/
A: I think it's because we're charging straight from USB and there's no Adapter involved. May not be how we're intended to charge...
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2253",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Can I buy songs from iTunes within my iPhone appplication? I'm new to iPhone development and sorry if my question sounds stupid. Just wondering is it possible that I can buy songs from the iTunes using my iPhone application I just saw some apps doing the same.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
A: As far as I know, no you can't. Buying music from the iTunes Store is limited to the iTunes application. You can use a link which will pass the user to iTunes to look at that particular song but they can't buy it from within your application.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2261",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Autotiling for Mac OS X I love the big screen on the iMacs, but having to shape the applications so they don't overlap is not optimal. Is there a way to have an autotiling feature, so that with the touch of a (configurable mouse) button the windows get tiled automatically ?
A: Although your question is not an exact duplicate, it basically covers Window Management, so I suggest you take a look at this and this.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2265",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Jailbreak iPhone for non-US country Am I able to get a new iPhone 4 for non US Country (India). My plan is someone coming from US can bring to one to India. Is this possible to do?
A: iPhone is being sold without any contract in any western european country that sells them, because they are now required to do so. In fact, Apple itself sells the iPhone 4 without a contract.
In the USA, however, things are different, and you have to have a 2 year AT&T contract.
In Spain, the Online Apple Store sells the iPhone completely contract-free, as you can read in this text (in Spanish), however they only ship within Spain. I assume other Apple Stores in Europe follow the same practice.
Regarding the Jailbreak, you should read this.
A: you must note that Apple produce iPhone in 2 way.
*
*Normal Mode that @Martin told above.
*Unlocked Factory
if you tell your friend(family) that bought you "unlocked factory" iPhone for you yes it work fine for you in India. and if they bought normal iPhone if you jailbreak it, you must able to use it with other simcard.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2266",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "-1"
} |
Q: How can I use my iPod touch as an external disk? I have a 2nd generation iPod touch (8GB), but I don't know how to make it work as an external disk. I think I saw a checkbox somewhere but I can't find it anymore.
I've searched the Web, but the way it should work (as a check box on the front page of iTunes when the iPod is connected) doesn't work for me...
Am I missing something or is this not possible anymore? I had an iPod nano that worked in the manner described.
Edit: I would like it to work with a Mac, a PC, the USB port of a DVD player, etc. (as with my good old nano)
A: I don't think it is possible using iTunes.
You can try iPhone Explorer, though (which is free), or Phone Disk
A: You’re correct that other iPods had the ability to “Enable Disk Mode”, however:
Other iPod’s have Disk Mode where you can use the iPod as a hard drive. However, the iPod Touch doesn’t have this mode. There is currently no way to get it to show up in the Finder on a Mac or on the Windows Desktop. You are only able to use the iPod Touch within the iTunes application. (source)
Not all is lost, as there are some utilities that may do it.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2267",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Where can I learn about programming my Jail broken iOS device? I'd like to do some R&D pushing the boundaries of iOS devices. Is there a how-to guide or private API documentation?
Is there a Stack Exchange site for this?
A: There is a Stack Exchange proposal but it's lacking support:
[...]for iOS developers who require
help and advice when using
undocumented iOS APIs. Developers who
discover private iOS APIs and need a
place to document them.
http://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/18154/ios-private-apis
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2269",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Does anyone have experience with buying an officially unlocked iPhone 4 in the US? Does anyone has experience buying an iPhone 4 to be unlocked (oficially by Apple) in the US?
iPhones are unlocked by Apple, after you request the unlock to your carrier (once you have paid the subsidy). Since Apple Stores allow buying iPhones at full price now (for gifts, for example), can I buy an iPhone in an Apple Store and immediately after call AT&T to unlock it?
This should be both legal and possible. Heck, even Apple could offer it in their stores. Does anyone have experience with this? Any tips on how to ask for the unlock to AT&T?
A: No, this isn't possible to do through official channels. The officially unlocked phones are unlocked from the manufacturer; this isn't possible to do after the phone has been provisioned (otherwise the iPhone hacking community would be all over this avenue rather than going after security holes in the baseband to achieve the same effect). Because if their agreement with AT&T, Apple does not sell these units in the US, and every distributor outside of the US has to agree not to sell the units to US customers.
A: Given what Adam said, your best bet to get an officially unlocked iPhone is (probably) through another country. I don't know about the Western hemisphere countries, but in Europe unlocked iPhones can be purchased in UK, France, Italy, and in several other countries. (In some places only through the Apple online store, in others also through brick-and-mortar Apple or non-Apple stores.)
One quite simple way would be this:
*
*Get an UK "address" from Borderlinx
*Order the phone from Apple Store UK to that address (pay normally with your credit card). Note the FAQ which beautifully explains that it's SIM-free.
*When Borderlinx gets the shipment they charge you for delivery (don't know about US but to Finland it's about $40) and when you've paid, they ship it to you (with UPS or DHL or similar service).
UK is a bit far from you, so consider checking some nearby countries first for similar services. (Or if you have friends/relatives in some country with unlocked iPhones that's of course even better.)
(UK + Borderlinx is a really popular method right now for getting an unlocked iPhone 4 where I live (as testified by e.g. this 45-page forum thread at local Apple fanboy site). Lots of people hate the SIM-locked & expensive Sonera deals we have.)
A: I live in US and have been an AT&T customer for many years and requested that they unlock my iPhone4 as I travel and they refused. So when iPhone4S arrived, I purchased an unlocked phone directly from Apple. It costs a bit more BUT the benefits are astounding. I travel around the globe and have purchased micro sims in Singapore (Singtel), Dubai (du) and Europe (Ortel)and the 3G plans are excellent and what is really irritating is that the data plans are very cheap compared to US. Does an unlocked phone work, yes.. can you buy them .. yes.
HOWEVER, if you are looking for a "jailbroken" unlocked phone, thats a different story. But if your need is similar to mine, Apple's unlocked phone is the way to go. Good travels.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2276",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Mac HDD Firmware for non-Mac-HDDs? First of all: I use a MacBook (white) 13.3" 2Ghz (It says it's a MacBook3,1).
There was an 80GB HDD (Hitachi) built in, which just turned out to be a little too...
Well, it's not enough anymore.
So I cloned the drive with Carbon Copy Cloner (can recommend it by the way) to a 250GB FUJITSU MHY2250BH.
Now it has been my understanding that I need a special Mac Firmware for the drive to use certain features, for example the HDD temp display the iStat dashboard widget usually gives me. Google couldn't come up with anything useful so far, so here's what the question actually is about:
Can I get the drive to be "fully functional", e.g. with some Firmware upgrade or something else?
If I am completely wrong with any of my assumptions – pointing that out would be an acceptable answer, too.
EDIT: Just to specify: The HDD itself works, but there are some minor inconveniences left:
The system boots slowlyer and iStatPro can't display the HDD's temp.
A: You do not need a special OSX firmware to use a different internal disk. Just plug it in and all will work.
A: When you say it boots slower, is it noticeably so? My guess might be a slower speed HDD or maybe just from accumulated cruft that you haven't noticed until switching drives? After using CCC your HDD is good to go, doesn't require anything else.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: iPhone App for Displaying Email on a Locked Screen with Exchange Support I have an app, "mail notifier" that sends notifications to my phone when I get a new email, it does not support Exchange though.
Is there an app that is similar that does support exchange, maybe an app that does 'local' notifications so there is not a reoccurring cost?
A: iOS 5 has added this feature to operating system, and no app is needed to accomplish this task.
A: LockInfo
LockInfo gives you access to your information where you need it, when you need it. You can view your new emails, upcoming calendar events, unread SMSs, missed calls and much more on your lockscreen, SpringBoard or even within any application on your iPhone, iPod Touch or iPad.
A: You can try Boxcar.
You'll have to trust them, though, since the way to get visual notification for new mail is to forward all your mail to a @boxcar.io address generated only for your account.
Then, everytime you'll get a mail, it will be forwarded to your Boxcar address and pushed to your iPhone.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Why are the iOS keyboard settings changing on their own? I have an iPod Touch -- my first iOS device -- and I'm trying to figure out how to set up the keyboard layouts, because I'm going to be typing almost exclusively Japanese.
I went into the preferences, added the Japanese 10-key, added the Chinese (traditional) handwriting recognition, and removed all the others. (I'm indifferent to the emoji keyboard layout, since it doesn't ever seem to appear, even when it's in the list.)
After a few minutes of using my iPod, the keyboard settings will have automatically changed. The Japanese romaji keyboard will have been added, and the Chinese handwriting will have been replaced with the English keyboard.
I find this confusing and frustrating. If I add these extra keyboards myself, then it doesn't muck up my preferences, but then I have a bunch of extra keyboards I'll never use, including the default keyboard.
I've been trying for a couple days to find a pattern (a particular app or operation that causes the keyboards to spontaneously change), but I've not found a smoking gun yet. One symptom is that when the keyboards change, when I go into the preferences, it's back at the top of the main screen, instead of wherever I was last (regardless of whether I was in the keyboard settings or not) -- but I don't know the significance of that.
So a few questions about this:
*
*Is this new in iOS 4 or 4.1? Is it the sort of thing that Apple would recognize as a bug and fix in 4.2 (or even 4.1.x)?
*Is there a workaround? (I'm completely new to iOS so I haven't figured out all the workarounds for the OS bugs here yet!)
*Is there a way to set the default keyboard? (This wouldn't be nearly as bad if I could make the Japanese 10-key the default keyboard, but whenever 'English' is in the list, it makes itself the default, no matter where it is in the preferences list.)
Thanks!
A: I bit the bullet and upgraded to 4.2. After upgrading, I removed all but the 2 'keyboard' layouts I wanted.
I've been running it for a whole day now, and it hasn't spontaneously changed my keyboard settings. I'm going to call this one a bug in 4.1 that got fixed in 4.2.
Yay!
A: Try resetting your settings (note just your setting, not setting & content) My friend's iPod Touch also kept resetting its music settings, resetting all settings solved that. Note resetting settings will remove any clocks you added to the clock app and remove any timers you had running.
Reset can be found in the settings app -> general -> reset (right at the bottom) -> reset all settings (the first one)
| {
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} |
Q: Switch between ringer and vibrate based on schedule? Certain times of the week I would like the phone to be on vibrate and other times of the week I want it to be on ringer. I would like to setup a schedule for these changes to happen automatically. Can this be done? If not natively is there an app that can do this?
A: Auto Silent on Cydia (jailbreak).
| {
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
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} |
Q: 8 GB on MacBook Pro (13", 2.26 ghz) The Apple specs say the 13" MacBook Pro supports up to 8GB of RAM. I have a 2.26GHz 13" one, and would really want to use this.
Has anyone tried this before? What is the maximum memory recommended, to be "safe"?
A: I have a 2.4-GHz 13-inch MacBook Pro, which is virtually the same as your model. It has 8GB of RAM. No problems thus far.
| {
"language": "en",
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} |
Q: How do I get Google Notifier (Mac) to report the number of new messages in Priority Inbox? I'm using Google Notifier for Mac 1.10.6.879 and I want it to report the number of new messages in Priority Inbox. Previously, I had Notifier report the number of unread messages that had a certain label assigned to it (it was a quasi-Priority Inbox). I set up the notifier by going into terminal and typing:
defaults write com.google.GmailNotifier Label -string "LABEL"
When I substitute out LABEL for Priority Inbox, it doesn't provide an accurate unread count:
defaults write com.google.GmailNotifier Label -string "Priority Inbox"
Doesn't it make complete sense that Google Notifier and Priority Inbox should work together?!
A: I think that the label GMail uses for the Priority Inbox is "Important". Have you tried using that?
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: What causes the "Unable to download application" error on an iPod Touch? On some wireless networks, whenever I try to download or update an app I get the following message:
Unable to download application.
<Your App> will be available for download when you log in to the
iTunes store on your computer.
I assume it is some kind of firewall issue. Assuming it is, does anyone know what firewall ports are required to download apps via WIFI to an iPod Touch?
A: I had this twice on my iPod touch.
When it happened first, there was not enough free memory on the iPod.
The second time it was an app (yxplayer) not designed for the iPod. I even could not install it after I had downloaded it in iTunes. If I remember correctly iTunes told me that this app can not be run on an iPod touch. After i "upgraded" my iPod to an iPhone 4, I could install the app without any problems.
A: Try Settings > Store (near the bottom) > View Account. I think that if your Apple ID hasn't been recorded, then you will see the prompt to do so, otherwise, you'll just see "View Account" and "Sign Out".
UPDATE: The one other thing I think you should try is make sure your iPhone has the latest iOS it can support. There shouldn't be any need to open/close ports for the App Store on the network; it should just be like any other http traffic. I used to sometimes have the problem you are having, but I haven't in quite a long time and casual observation through other forums shows that you aren't the only who has had this problem, and an upgrade to the latest OS was the fix.
A: From the following source:
Have you ever had this error message on your iPhone while trying to download an application or a game: Unable to download application.
There is a pretty easy fix for this and here is how it works:
Simply double tap the icon of the application that gives you trouble and wait for a few seconds. It should then be available.
If it does not work, the problem may also be that the app didn’t get downloaded completely. So, remove it and try downloading it again. I found it much better to download app over wifi, rather than 3G.
A: It happened to me today when my app was approved and available in store. I got same message. The reason it was happening for me because i was using same Apple ID which i used for submitting app. I changed the apple ID and it downloaded without any issues.
A: I juSt received the same message when an app I was attempting to download required a newer version of iOS than I have. found another app that was compatible and had no problems. worth considering...
| {
"language": "en",
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"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Script doesn't find file Suppose my_folder contains my_script and my_program. my_script tries to run ./my_program -myoptions. It works when I cd into the directory, but not when I double click on it.
Here is the output:
CasebashMac:~ chris$ /Users/chris/Programs/synergy-1.3.1\ 2/work_comp_server ; exit;
/Users/chris/Programs/synergy-1.3.1 2/work_comp_server: line 1: ./synergys: No such file or directory
logout
How can I fix this?
A: "./synergys" is a path relative to the directory which you are currently in. To fix this you will need to specify an absolute path, for example:
/users/chris/Files/synergys
Obviously change it to a path that actually exists :)
Might be overkill, but there is a wikipedia page about paths:
Path_(computing)
| {
"language": "en",
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"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Migrating from MacPorts to Homebrew. Is there any specific advice in how to minimize disruption? I want to stop using macports, and use homebrew instead, I have been reading on their approach and it makes more sense to me.
Now, I don't care much about having to reinstall my packages, even if some of them might not exist yet -- apparently, creating a new formula is straightforward.
But I'm a bit concerned about data which is installed in system-owned directories, like the data in MySQL or PostgreSQL. I'd like a bit of advice on how to proceed so as to have the less amount of problems migrating data from one installation to another.
I'm also curious about start scripts for daemons. Macports have complicated wrappers for launchd, but I don't know how homebrew manages that aspect. Can anyone clarify this for me?
Also, any generic advice you can provide regarding this migration will also be welcome. Things to look for, what to avoid, etc.
A: A bit off-topic but wanted to share my experience on this topic.
About 6month / a year ago, I decided to do some cleanup and uninstalled port and fink to the benefit of brew, which I prefer.
Today... Got the three again. Why?
*
*brew as my main source
*port provides MANY more packages than brew and I needed some of them (like wireshark+nox11)
*fink for some rare packages (I think I only reinstalled it for some dpkg utils)
Just my 2 cents, not everyone needs these packages. But before uninstalling port, check twice the packages you need ;)
A: Moving data is dependant on the application that manages it, e.g. if it's a database you could do a dump and restore it on the new installation, if it's a configuration file just copy it, etc.
HomeBrew packages create the config files for launchd in the Cellar (read: formula's install dir) and at the end of the install process display an how-to install those files (the caveats method in formulas source) which generally is a simple cp and launchctl sequence.
Creating formulas is indeed easy, and the developers will happily accept your new or updated formulas. The process is,
In summary: fork, clone, create, commit, push, audit (new-formula)
Last but not least: take a look at the wiki.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "12"
} |
Q: Is there a functional Jailbreak for iOS 4.1 on an iPhone 3GS? I have an iPhone 3GS running 4.0.1 that is currently Jailbroken (using the Jailbreakme.com vulnerability a while back). While I don't care about any ability to unlock my phone - I'm quite happy with AT&T - I do have LockInfo and one or two other jailbreak apps installed that I quite like. I'd like to update to 4.1 for the new features like GameCenter etc., but as far as I know, I'll lose my jailbreak if I do this.
Is there a working easy jailbreak for 4.1 at this time? If not, is one expected soon?
A: My understanding is that there currently is not one, although rumours abound that one is coming up soon. The best place for "official" information is the iPhone Dev-Team. More direct/recent updates can be found by following various team members on Twitter. MuscleNerd is a good example. If other legitimate groups released anything solid, you will hear about it through them anyway (as is the case here: Chronic Dev Team seem reliable too). There are already fake sites springing up in anticipation of the next release; the important thing is not to use anything that hasn't been confirmed by them or that you have to pay for.
Additionally, if you have saved your SHSH blobs using Cydia on an already-jailbroken phone or The Firmware Umbrella, you can downgrade and jailbreak the old version. Normally this means you can upgrade using PwnageTool without losing your jailbreak, although I don't think the Dev-Team has released something compatible with 4.1 yet.
UPDATE
There is now a full jailbreak for 4.1 and later on 3GS. BigBoss maintains a jailbreak table which may be useful for updates at-a-glance. My understanding is that all current devices are now able to be jailbroken forever (greenpois0n/limera1n exploit), but iPhone 4 and later model 3GS are sometimes tethered on iOS new releases (as of this edit: not tethered on 4.1, but currently - hopefully not for long - tethered on 4.2)
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
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} |
Q: How are images stored on the hard drive of an iPhone? If I were to examine my iPhone's hard drive, in what format would I find the images in the Photos app stored?
Are they in a big .sqlite database file? Or are they stored as individual files such as .jpg?
I'm looking for the extension used (e.g. .sqlite, .png, .jgp, etc.).
A: All the images are stored as jpegs in various locations. The camera roll, for example, is stored in /private/var/mobile/Media/ (unless they've moved it).
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Can I use the iPad Camera Kit to move photos onto an SD card? Can the iPad Camera Kit be used to move or export photos onto an SD Card? I'd like copy photos from my iPad onto a memory card for a digital photo frame.
A: you can read this nice article of what can you do with such connector
in sum, you can:
*
*Attach USB Keyboards
*USB Audio Devices (like an usb wireless headphones)
*Attach a USB Microphone
*Removing Items from a Camera or SD Card
*Importing Photos from your iPhone or iPod touch
*External Hard Drive Support (Jailbreak hack needed)
*USB Hubs - Multi-device hookup
A: Apple only allows importing files. You are not able to export to a SD card.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Is it possible to have the iPhone automatically open iTunes/sync on one computer and not on others? I want to be able to plug my iPhone in to my main computer and have a fire-and-forget sync happen with iTunes automatically. But leaving the box(es) ticked about doing this appears to be a device option, not a computer option. Thus, when connecting to another PC (e.g. just to charge, or grab a photo), I have to wait whilst iTunes starts up and the device does some strange mini-sync (that doesn't seem to actually do anything other than lose track marks, scrobbles etc.). Have I got something set wrong?
Both the main machine used for syncing and the second machine this is most often a problem on are Windows machines. However, I have also seen it happen on a Macbook Air.
The situation which I envisage is:
*
*Computer A is synced to iPhone A
*Computer B is synced to iPhone B
*User A wants to be able to plug in to computer A, triggering an automatic backup and sync
*User B wants to be able to plug in to computer B, triggering an automatic backup and sync
*However, User A wants to be able to plug in to Computer B (e.g. to charge, to look at photos) without starting iTunes starting or performing any kind of sync whatsoever.
*Likewise for User B on Computer B (or Computer C,D...)
A: iTunes/iPhone syncing is done on a "per Mac" basis. In iTunes Preferences, go to Devices, and check the box for "Prevent iPods, iPhones, and iPads from syncing automatically". This will prevent iTunes from opening when a device is plugged in.
UPDATE: There used to be in previous versions of iTunes, in the old "Syncing" Preferences, a way to disable automatic syncing and that prevented iTunes from even opening. But it seems they have changed the behavior because searching for answers on other sites yield the same behavior but in previous versions of iTunes. I set this preference ages ago, so the preference must be holding over.
In response to your comments:
iTunes still starts, still does some
kind of mini-sync, but doesn't
recognise the name of the phone or
allow access to its contents.
Are you sure you are syncing with the iTunes install you originally started with? Syncing is strictly a one-to-one relationship for iPhones and iTunes. Once you sync an iPhone to an iTunes install and wish to sync with a different one (like on another Mac), you are then forced to clear the phone and start anew.
My iTunes behaves the way you are describing, but when I plug in my iPhone, I get the "mini-sync" you mention because that's the device registering with the OS and iTunes that it exists and iTunes puling needed info to interact with it. Can't really get around that one.
it would prevent the machine being
used at all for syncing, no?
No. You could still sync if you wanted, but that's if you are syncing with the iTunes install that recognizes the phone. Otherwise, see my comment above.
BTW, save the downvoting for the really egregious answers. Downvoting costs points. Otherwise, just leave it alone.
| {
"language": "en",
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} |
Q: What kinds of things should I do to maintain the performance of my iMac? I've recently switched from PC to Mac. So far, so good!
With my PC, I had a variety of tasks I'd regularly perform to keep my PC running well:
*
*Run CCleaner to clean up all the cruft (temporary files, hidden caches, etc.) that browsers leave behind
*Run CCleaner to clean the registry
*Run AdAware to clean up tracking cookies, etc.
*Run MalwareBytes malicious software removal tool
*Run Microsoft's malicious software removal tool to backstop malwarebytes (hoping that at least one of them would find the hard-to-catch stuff)
*Run MacAfee's virus scanner (This software never did anything but give me headaches. But it's popularity made me uncomfortable just deleting it)
*Run a disk defragmenter
There's probably a few more I'm forgetting too.
Obviously, PCs are high-maintenance. Maybe my list was overkill - I tend to do that, but since I use a computer to make a living, I want it to perform as well and reliably as it can.
So, now I use a new iMac. While I'm hoping the list is shorter than the PC list, is there anything I should do to keep it performing optimally?
A: *
*Set up Time Machine the first time you start you Mac,
*Set up Software Update so that your system is always up to date.
*A shutdown once in a while should clean most of little garbage but you will have to perform it anyway with some software updates.
and
*
*Never log in with administrative privileges unless you have a serious reason to do so.
A: Aside from the advice given by mouviciel, you’ll need to perform certain tasks. The good news is: it can happen automatically.
I suggest you get an utility either the free Onyx or the excellent (but Shareware) Cocktail. In a couple of minutes of experimenting with the options you can set that up to run automatically.
Most of the cleaning tasks will be performed automatically. Of course, Time Machine and Software Updates are a good idea too. There are other utilities and you can probably find them with a simple Google query.
A: I will try to hit your points one by one. Truthfully, I've been running OS X for almost 6 years and from my experience, I have not seen any degradation of performance over time. But for what it's worth, I am quite obsessive over the quality of my system, from performance to security, so this is an area I've actually researched and continue to have a thumb in. Even TRIM support for SSDs is a mixed bag.
*
*Run CCleaner to clean up all the crap (temporary files, hidden
caches, etc.) that browsers leave behind
While having orphaned caches and preference files won't slow down your Mac, some don't like leaving cruft behind as it can take up valuable HD space. Apps like AppZapper and AppCleaner remove these files and may be something you wish to take a look at. Personally I use AppZapper.
*
*Run CCleaner to clean the registry
Mac OS X does not contain a registry. All preference files (which house your personal settings) are located in your users Library/Preferences folder. Letting them accumulate over time will not have a negative impact on your systems performance (see above).
*
*Run AdAware to clean up tracking cookies, etc.
Again, this will not adversely affect a system's performance, but you are certainly welcome to keep Safari free of garbage. Personally, I use Jar to achieve this. It is quite good, but unfortunately has not seen an update in quite a while. However, it is the cleanest and simplest app (there are others, but they require 3rd party plug-ins that may hurt your systems performance and stability) in this department.
*
*Run MalwareBytes malicious software removal tool
Unnecessary on OS X. It has a native system to handle "malware" and while there has been only one documented case that has made it's way into the wild (with relative success), this still remains very much a non-issue on OS X. You can read more about the malware Mac Defender, and what Apple did about it. Malware remains a point of contention because it cannot be installed without some level of user interaction (unlike Windows).
*
*Run Microsoft's malicious software removal tool to backstop
malwarebytes (hoping that at least one of them would find the
hard-to-catch stuff)
Again, not necessary. See above.
*
*Run MacAfee's virus scanner (This piece-of-crap software never did
anything but give me headaches. But it's popularity made me
uncomfortable just deleting it)
You'll be happy to discover that OS X does not contain viruses or requires any utility to protect it from such threats. Do not be bought into the FUD by those that would have you consume resources by installing anti-virus software for your Mac (yes, some exist). The most common argument is that it creates a protective barrier that may not be that useful on OS X, but will prevent the spread to machines running Windows. This is a non-starter because all Windows systems already contain anti-viruse software to protect them, ergo, they do not require an additional barrier.
*
*Run a disk defragmenter
Not required. Apple has actually archived their document covering this topic as defragmentation and file optimization on OS X is no longer an issue. You can find it here. In a nutshell, it is not something a user should ever worry about. Disregard those that would have you install or copy your data to and fro in a vain attempt to "optimize" your files. OS X simply does not suffer from the problems that plague Windows in this department.
A: No one's mentioned it but it's generally worthwhile making sure the space remaining on the primary OS drive is at least 10% of the drive space, this is mostly so the OS has room to work in.
Apparently (I've never sat and verified it) leaving items on your desktop will be viewed by the OS as an item to be loaded into memory, so try keep your desktop free (which is always a good thing anyway) to keep it running nice and clean.
Remember to trash your cache files every 3 months or so.
After a while go to Disk Utility and repair permissions, it's a bit of a waving a headless chicken over your computer but they can occasionally cause some issues.
Go to the Spotlight settings and disable anything you're not interested in.
And finally just plain old kill the Dashboard, unless you have some specific love for it.
| {
"language": "en",
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"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Using My Mac as a webserver for my VMware VM So, I have my Mac running VMware Fusion and I have a Windows XP VM running.
Currently the VM Network setup is NAT, my Mac is already setup as a web server.
I'd like to be able to access the Mac from the vm via the web browser (for some testing).
If the VM is set to use NAT is there a standard IP address I can use from the VM to get to the Mac regardless of what network I might be on? I might be at work and have an IP address of 10.1.. or I might be at home and have an IP address of 192.168..
What are my options?
Update:
At work I am on an AD domain
When I switch to Bridged networking I can see my Mac from the VM using my Mac's IP address.
I was hoping (and thinking) there would be an IP address that I could use regardless of where I am at.
A: Have you tried 'machinename.local?' (eg mymac.local)
I have a similar setup (and many many variations thereof) and usually the Windows VM can see the Mac via the address 'millie.local', where millie is the machine name.
If you go and look at the 'Sharing' tab of the System Preferences program, you should see what '.local' name your machine will appear as.
This doesn't work so well with Server 2003 (and presumably Server 2008) as .local has a different meaning with Windows AD networks, but it ought to be fine with XP.
A: This might be what you are looking for; originally found on this thread:
That is exactly what NAT does. It puts your virtual machine on
separate network, vmnet8. Go to Terminal and type ifconfig. You will
see the IP address for your host in vmnet8.
| {
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Q: How do I change Mac OS X's sleep behavior with respect to USB plugging/unplugging? If a USB device is plugged or unplugged, my MacBook Pro wakes up from sleep. Can this behavior be changed somehow? That is to say, I do not want my Mac to wake up when a USB device is unplugged.
A: The reason why the Mac awakes is because the USB device is drawing power from the Mac’s USB port. When you disconnect it, there’s a change in the voltage and the Mac awakes (same goes when you plug one).
Curiously, there’s a way to do it in Windows.
According to the guys at Super User, this is not possible on a Mac. At least not that we’ve discovered yet.
| {
"language": "en",
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"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Does anyone have any tips or best practices for using NFS mounted directories? Does anyone have tips for conveniently dealing with a variety of NFS mounted directories in Mac OS X?
When I drag them to the sidebar in finder they can't be renamed.
When I mounted them using "connect to server" they get mounted under /Volumes.
Alternatively I can access them using /net/host/export and they will get automatically mounted.
But there doesn't seem to be any way to visit a /net/host/export directory using the finder GUI. Although it seems I can use "open" from the command line to visit it and then drag it to the side bar.
So anyway. Any "best practices" out there?
I seem to have a choice to drag either /net paths to the side bar or to drag /Volume paths to the side bar. The finder seems to implement the auto-mount functionality when I click on /Volume-based sidebar links.
I could also create symlinks to /net paths and use those symlinks.
One of the core problems I have is that the /net paths (and the /Volume paths) are long and unfriendly. I'm looking for a way to "manage" these in a way that lets me use shortcuts or aliases of some kind.
I'm still collecting tips. When I get more, I'll come back here and rewrite this.
Basically /net paths are treated by the finder as local directories. In some ways it treats them as local (must use 'Goto' to open them) and in some ways it knows they are special (they don't show up in the "Mac HD" location).
If you have any other tips, please add them.
A: In Finder press:
*
*⇧+⌘+G to go to a directory. Since the automounting of /net is handled by the operating system (via Autofs, see the technical white paper) it will mount the share.
*⌘+K to open the Connections window, where you can even save your commonly accessed locations.
(see the Go menu)
But I don't think you can rename connections.
A: You can mount any NFS share using the fstab file (http://www.tuxfiles.org/linuxhelp/fstab.html). I found it to be the best alternative for mounting share so they appear in the top level of Finder (and also available in the sidebar), a feat impossible using autofs. Most importantly, it gives you the ability to add mount options like nolocks and rsize/wsize, which usually increase performance. YMMV.
A: Here is what I did with all network shares I use:
*
*Mounted all of them using Finder Go menu item "Connect to Server".
*Set checkbox "Connected servers" under Finder's Preferences General
tab. That makes all that shares appear on my Desktop.
*Created a folder "Network" inside my user folder (on the same level
as Documents, Movies, etc.
*Dragged all of the network shares from my Desktop inside that
folder.
*Dragged that "Network" folder on Finders Sidebar and also dragged it
into my Dock.
Now I have easy and quick access to all my network shares and they mount automatically. And I also renamed them to my taste to better reflect what they are about. Is that the thing you want to accomplish ?
Tips:
*
*One can have several such "Network" folders like Home and Work.
*One can create and put there Screen sharing and Remote Desktop
shortcuts as well.
*One can change their default "remote volume" icons to better
differentiate them.
*One can create new network aliases by dragging items from "Remote Volumes" section (Finder>Go>Computer.)
| {
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} |
Q: How do I write a script to disconnect all network drives? I work in a windows environment with active directory. Just logging out doesn't disconnect (unbind) the network drives. I need something more forceful, and faster than shutting down and restarting. Because if my mac awakes in another network without connection to the windows shares it gives me the spinning beach ball of death.
A: Are these shares automounted?
You could use AppleScript, or even bash quite effectively to do this using a Log Out Hook (or running manually):
tell application "Finder"
if ((count of disks) > 1) then
set drives to disks
repeat with drive in drives
eject drive
end repeat
end if
end tell
| {
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Q: Speeding up and improving directory listing from windows Servers? When I connect to windows servers (called PC-servers in OS X) getting the list of files in a directory is really slow (20-30s) in comparison to using a windows machine (<1s). Sometimes the files in a directory even disappear for a while! The network is not slow - copying files goes at 1Mbyte/s.
What can I do to improve this?
A: If you are using the Finder then try with another file manager or try run a ls in the terminal. Let us know if you are experiencing the same kind of delays using the command line.
Some good alternative file manager are muCommander and Midnight Commander. Try both.
A: I was able to speed up the directory listing by mounting shares via the command line, like this:
mount -t smbfs //user@server/sharename share
Where share is a directory in my home directory.
Somehow this is faster than mounting in the finder. Or is it ADmitMac slowing stuff down?
| {
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Q: What are the pros and cons of using iTunes to manage my iPod? I've heard people talking about using alternative software to manage their iPods.
My iPod came in the post today and I was wondering what the pros and cons of using iTunes (as opposed to popular alternative) were.
A: Pros: All works. Easy to use. Easy to Configure. Does Backups of your data. Allows iTS purchases. Handles everything for you. And every other iTunes feature that you might consider important (AirTunes for example).
Cons: iTunes might be a “heavy” application for some machines with limited RAM. Even if all you want is a music player, iTunes is all or nothing.
A: Itunes is far more integrated than anything you could imagine if you haven't used it with a music device, but on the other hand syncing is hardly necessary any more, you can do most operations over the net.
If you just want to manually dump a bunch of songs and movies onto your iThingy once in a while it doesn't matter much what you use, but if you are into regular synching with your computer and want it to manage music, movies and apps (backup, etc) as well as backing up your entire iDevice regularly then iTunes is really the only choice.
I guess I'd go with the non-apple solution first, give it a try for a month or so, then go 100% itunes (let it sync music, etc) for a bit. Compare and contrast. Shouldn't hurt too much to switch.
| {
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Q: What parts can you upgrade on a MacBook Pro? If I buy a MacBook Pro, what parts can I upgrade later?
Is it possible to upgrade to more memory? Is it possible to upgrade to another harddrive? e.g. to a newer SSD-drive? Anything else that is possible to upgrade?
A: In addition to Am1rr3za's answers (other than the CPU, which is soldered to the logic board), you can also convert the optical drive bay to a caddy which houses a second hard drive or solid state drive. This is a huge upgrade if you can stand being without an internal disc drive...
A: It depends on how much you care about your warranty.
If you want to keep your warranty valid, Apple says you can upgrade your hard drive and your RAM—and that's all.
To learn how to do it, here are Apple's user manuals and page references for the current (mid-2010) MacBook Pros:
*
*13" (pages 37-48)
*15" (pages 37-48)
*17" (pages 37-49)
A: Yes, you can upgrade some parts of your MacBook Pro:
*
*Upgrade your hard drive.
*Upgrade to more memory.
*You can also upgrade CPU and WiFi Card.
*You won't be able to upgrade the graphics card on the MBP. It's soldered onto the motherboard.
| {
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Q: Apple Battery Charger - does not charge to 100%? I have recently purchased the Apple Battery Charger and immediately charged the batteries that came with it. A few days later (3 or 4) I placed the batteries into my mouse and noticed that they only indicate about 75% full. Is this correct? Is the value being read wrong (they are actually 100% full) or do they not fully charge?
A: It’s hard to tell with this new product, that is really a normal battery charger. Rechargeable batteries should charge all the way to 100% especially when they are new. If you’re not getting a full charge, try depleting them all and fully charge them, see if that works. Otherwise, batteries may be defective or it could be a mouse/software misinterpretation.
| {
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Q: Can I use the same iTunes Library on both Mac OS and Windows? I'm running Boot Camp, and once in a while I'd like to listen to music under Windows too. Is there a way I can use the same library under both Mac OS and Windows? Just changing the "iTunes Music" folder in Windows iTunes' preferences won't do it.
A: If you have bootcamp 3.1 and install windows 7 with your bootcamp you can do it without problem but if you installed other type of windows I recommended you read this post.
Edited
1 trick is just dragged the iTunes library into the iTunes window on my bootcamp partition and left the files where they are on the mac disk and it works just fine.
| {
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Q: HID Compliant TouchScreen for OS X 10.6 Does anyone know of an HID-compliant touch screen that will work straight out of the box with Max OS X 10.6 without requiring any drivers to be installed?
A: Google found a couple of possibilities; I haven't tried them myself:
*
*NextWindow - Touchscreen 2700
*Planar Touch - Touchscreen LCD Monitor - PT1710mx 17" Monitor
There's the Wacom Cintiq; while I believe they need drivers I'm sure they'd be available close to day & date.
And an entirely different approach to take might be the Axiotron Modbook.
A: Would you be happy with an HID-compliant touchscreen running another OS (or OS X with drivers installed), and then a full-screen VNC to your driver-less OS X machine? You might not be able to tell the difference.
| {
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} |
Q: Note taking for school I'm considering getting a Macbook or a Macbook Pro (I use Windows on my desktop computer), and I'm thinking about how note taking could be done.
Most I'm thinking would use Microsoft Word/Pages, but OneNote seems to be loved a lot of people, especially for education purposes, and it's mandatory for use for people in Years 9 and 10 in my school thanks to the NSW Digital Education Revolution.
But OneNote isn't in Office 2008, nor is it in Office 2011. So what I'm asking is that if I take the plunge, will there be any alternatives, apart from the obvious of virtualisation, Wine or CrossOver? I'm fine with using Wine/CrossOver, it's just that I would be expecting a native experience to be better.
According to a friend of mine, Word has a notebook feature, although I can't find anything about it through Google.
A: Check out Evernote. There are Windows, Mac, iPhone, and web versions, and all your notes are synchronized to all your devices. You can even take pictures, include them in notes, and then search any text that was in the pictures.
A: Yes, Word 2008/Mac has a notebook view, which I think would work fine for you. The #1 thing I like about it is that it can record audio simultaneously with your note-taking, so you can go back and listen to just that snippet of whatever the professor said, based on the notes you took that moment.
Word 2011/Mac is coming out next month, btw, and I don't know for sure what will/won't be included/changed/updated.
If you need to synchronize documents among multiple machines, I highly recommend Dropbox.
A: It's not OneNote, but all my Mac friends seem to use OmniOutliner. If native experience is important to you, OmniOutliner is hard to beat.
Also, depending on what Mac you buy and when, Apple sometimes includes one or more of Omni's programs for free.
A: Without turning this into a “let’s list all the applications we can”, I’d venture and recommend you a couple of note taking applications with a radically different approach:
Voodoo Pad (and it’s Lite counterpart) have a very interesting concept of how your notes end up being some sort of “wiki” where certain words link to other ‘pages’ of your notes. It’s a very popular Mac application and even the Lite (free) version can be all you want. I suggest you take a look at its list of features.
A different approach is given by an application like Notebook, which also offers an interesting concept that mimics a “real” notebook but with the advantages of a Computer interface.
Finally there are two applications I like to keep around at all times for fast note taking that are “plain text” but insanely fast to launch/use:
One is Hog Bay Software’s TaskPaper and the other is Notational Velocity. Extremely simple but more efficient than a bunch of “TextEdit” files spread across the drive.
As already suggested, using Dropbox is always a good idea.
It has already been suggested but Evernote is a nice application (which I really never use), but has a lot of fans because of its features.
A: I use Pear Note on a daily basses to record all my lectures, it makes it easy to check though your notes and see what the tutor sad for each part.
| {
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Q: What is time machine backing up? Is there a way to find out what time machine is backing up?
My time machine has been running fine, but it suddenly started to back-up 20GB a few days ago when I have not changed that much since last back-up.
This morning it started to back-up 14Mb, but I have not used it since it's last back up at 00.01 am.
Thanks,
Linda
A: There are two tools I know of that do this: (1) BackupLoupe (which is a GUI application) and (2) timedog (command-line Perl script).
A: Mobile Time Machine and Time Machine in Lion: using Terminal to view activities
At any time
A command such as this will present a lightweight overview:
tail -f /private/var/log/system.log | grep -E 'backup|mtm'
During a backup
A command such as this will present detail:
sudo fs_usage cmd backupd
When you have finished
To interrupt a running command:
controlc
tmutil
From the manual page for tmutil in Mac OS X 10.7 (Build 11A511), the description:
tmutil provides methods of controlling and interacting with Time Machine, as well as examining and manipulating Time Machine backups. Common abilities include restoring data from backups, editing exclusions, and comparing backups.
Expect Apple to publish that manual page, and others for 10.7, at:
*
*API Reference: Mac OS X Manual Pages
A: TimeTracker is a quick-and-dirty application that displays the contents of your Time Machine backups, and shows what's changed since the previous backup.
| {
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} |
Q: "Winclone has been discontinued". Now what? I just replaced my old 320Gb HHD on my MBP with a 240Gb SSD and I did not wanted to transfer the hole drive as it would not fit, as I have more than 60Gb of music and 110Gb of Photos and HD Videos.
So I started "blank" and, might say, did a good job :o)
but I really want to have my Bootcamp partition on my SSD instead hooking up the HHD all the time, and was searching for a tool...
Carbon Copy Cloner sounded great but:
then searching the forums I got Winclone and that was exactly what I wanted, but ... again
*
*website is no longer available
*Goggle cache page reported: "Winclone has been discontinued"
What are my options now?
A: Good news is that CNET Downloads still have the file on their own server so, we can easily get it form there
Winclone 2.2 on CNET Downloads
and after that the beauty come to us!
Unfortunately, WinClone will not work under OSX Lion...
A: Winclone 3 is out. $19.99. Works with Windows Vista or 7. XP unsupported, but sometimes works. OSX 10.6+
http://twocanoes.com/winclone.php
| {
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Q: How can I change the title of a boot image? I have an external Hard Drive with two bootable partitions on it. The first is an image of a Mac OS X 10.6 Install DVD, and the second is an image of a Mac OS X 10.6.3 Install DVD.
When I plug the hard drive into a Mac Mini, and turn it on holding down the Alt key, I get the option to select which boot device to use. However both my bootable images are named "Mac OS X Install DVD".
How would I change the name of the bootable image?
I have already tried changing the partition names but this has no effect.
Any ideas?
Note: I originally asked this on SuperUser, but upon discovering this site, I asked it here also.
Edit: Here are some related pictures:
The Partition in Finder
Disk Information in Disk Utility
Volume Information in Disk Utility
A: Note that since a firmware update that came in with High Sierra (late 2017) the root of the drive is now a secondary source for the disk label files. The primary source is within a directory called:
.IABootFiles
For example, to hit both sources:
sudo bless --folder "/Volumes/Install macOS 10.12" --label "Install macOS 10.12"
sudo bless --folder "/Volumes/Install macOS 10.12/.IABootFiles" --label "Install macOS 10.12"
A: Unless I'm totally misunderstanding your question, this is pretty simple. You can change the volume name just by right clicking it in finder, choosing "Get Info", and modifying the "name and extension" field. Or slow clicking twice on the name of the volume as it appears on the desktop, and editing it just like any other file name... I do this all the time with bootable volumes and it works just fine.
Your installer doesn't have to be called "Mac OS X Install DVD". The installer doesn't care what you call it. Name one "Crap Bag" and the other one "Princess Consuela Banana Hammock"... no one will care and OS X will still install just fine.
edit:
I just tried this with a USB stick I created that has the 10.6.3 installer on it. I had already changed the name from "Mac OS X Install DVD" to "10.6.3 Installer minus Optional". I just changed it to "10.6.3 Banana Hammock" and when I booted with alt, that is what was displayed.
There must be something not explained here that is causing this... maybe partition schemes other than GPT don't work this way?
on second edit:
What method did you use to put the images on the bootable partitions? I ask because I'm wondering if you just copied the images themselves rather than cloning or restoring them to the partitions.
I've never tested this, but I'm wondering if it's possible to have .dmg files that are bootable on a partition. The behavior that would arise would be in line with what you're describing. You could change the partition/volume name, but it wouldn't affect the name of the dmg file. Even if you changed the dmg file name, that wouldn't affect the name of the disk image (volume) contained within the dmg file.
If this is the case, I would think you could change the name by mounting the image in OS X, and then changing the volume name (the name of the volume that shows up on the desktop or in disk utility) that was mounted from the dmg or iso.
edit III
Below are the steps I used to create my installer image. The main difference is Carbon Copy Cloner. It may not work any better, but at this point it may be worth a try since mine has the behavior you would like to see.
*
*Inserted OS X Install DVD.
*In Disk Utility, clicked "New Image".
*Named it "Installer_image.dmg".
*Chose "compressed" and "none" for encryption, clicked save.
*Once complete, I mounted the image and deleted the optional folder.
*Right clicked the mounted volume, chose "Get Info", wrote down the exact amount of space used in the image for files and folders, and unchecked "Ignore Ownership on this Volume".
*Went back to disk utility, inserted my flash drive, and made a partition named "10.6.3 Install minus Optional" that was about 500MB larger than the disk image's used space.
*Did another "get info" on the new flash drive volume and unchecked the ignore ownership option.
*In Carbon Copy Cloner: as source, chose the mounted installer volume, target was the new flash volume. Chose "Backup Everything" and "Delete items that don't exist on the source". Clicked clone.
Afterwards, I am able to change the name of the flash volume, and whatever I change it to is what shows up in the boot menu.
A: This is an older post, but I came across it today and figured I'd share what I found.
The 'bless' command seems to make this work. First make sure the disk is mounted, find out which folder it is mounted to, and:
sudo bless --folder <mount_path> -label <desired_label>
For example:
sudo bless --folder "/Volumes/Mac OS X Lion Install ESD" -label "Lion Install"
Whatever you put for the label is what should show up at the choose disk screen when holding option during a boot.
Note that you'll probably want to do this in addition to renaming in Finder or Get Info just to keep them somewhat in sync and make them easier to identify in either case.
A: Do you ever try use rEFit:
rEFIt is a boot menu and maintenance toolkit for EFI-based machines
A: Installer media
devguydavid's answer definitely leads in the right direction, but probably only works for older installer media.
The other David's answer likely works for contemporary installer media, but I haven't verified it.
But what about boot volumes for permanant operating systems or non-macOS installers?
Non-installer boot volumes
To label any EFI boot volume, the bless command must be pointed to the folder containing the bootloader—boot.efi or bootx64.efi—in an EFI system partition (which may be the actual OS volume, or a separate volume dedicated to the task).
The exact location of the bootloader is ultimately arbitrary (i.e., one could move it around by changing settings in NVRAM), but it is typically one of a handful of locations, depending on the OS.
Locate the relevant bootloader
Run through the following conditions for the boot volume you want to change, then take note of the folder containing boot.efi or bootx64.efi.
*
*For standard installations of macOS:
*
*With an HFS+ startup volume format:
*
*boot.efi is in /System/Library/CoreServices on the startup volume.
*With an APFS startup volume format (generally macOS 10.13 or later when the boot volume is stored on an SSD):
*
*The bootloader is stored on the Preboot APFS volume (in the same actual disk partition as the boot volume).
*
*To mount this volume, run diskutil list, look for Preboot next to the name of your startup volume (Macintosh HD or whatever) and then run sudo diskutil mount diskXsY, substituting X and Y to specify the Preboot volume.
*boot.efi is in /Volumes/Preboot/<some-UUID>/System/Library/CoreServices
*
*where <some-UUID> is the longest filename shown by ls /Volumes/Preboot.
*(Source: Booting the Mac: bless, and what makes a volume bootable from Eclectic Light Co.)
*For Linux installations, installers or other live media:
*
*There is no definitive, uniform bootloader location for Linux OSs, but the following location is somewhat likely:
*
*In the EFI partition on the startup disk (the EFI system partition).
*
*Presumably (if you are running Linux on a Mac) you know how to mount this, but the gist is diskutil list followed by diskutil mount diskXsY, substituting X and Y to specify the EFI partition.
*bootx64.efi or similar is in /Volumes/EFI/EFI/boot. (Note that this is technically a fallback location—the actual firmware will likely be somewhere else, and you may have to do some poking around using bootoption as described below).
*(For an extremely informative deep dive into the standard EFI boot process, I highly recommend UEFI boot: how does that actually work, then? from Adam Williamson)
*For Windows:
*
*In the EFI partition on the disk where Windows was installed (mount it under macOS as you would for Linux):
*
*The EFI firmware (which Windows calls bootmgfw.efi) should be in /Volumes/EFI/EFI/Microsoft/Boot.
*Anything and everything:
*
*If you still can't find your bootloader, I recommend using bootoption:
*
*Run bootoption list and find the identifier for the boot entry you want to label. It should be BootXXXX where X is 0–9.
*Run bootoption info BootXXXX as appropriate. Look for a Partition UUID or a pair of Container Partition UUID and APFS Volume UUID. Also note the Loader Path.
*Run through each volume printed by diskutil list with diskutil info diskXsY until you find a matching Disk / Partition UUID or Volume UUID.
*
*For APFS volumes, consult Container Partition UUID to find the actual disk partition. The volume (in the container partition) containing the bootloader has Volume UUID = APFS Volume UUID.
*For all other volumes, look for a volume such that Partition UUID = Disk / Partition UUID.
*Finally, the bootloader is located at Loader Path on the volume you just identified.
*
*e.g., \<uuid>\System\Library\CoreServices\boot.efi, \EFI\ubuntu\shimx64.efi, etc., etc.
Change the label
OK! Knowling the location of the bootloader, we can now use bless to add or change its Boot Manager label:
sudo bless --folder <bootloader-folder> --label '<new-label>'
This creates the files .disk_label and .disk_label_2x in the bootloader folder.
The reason this process is so complicated is that the labels are actually stored prerendered in an extremely simple image format. This obviates the need for font rendering in the preboot environment.
A: Given that you can't change the name of the disk images, what you need to do is be able to tell which disk image is which. To what you're doing now, you'll need to add one extra step…
*
*Plug in the external HD.
*Boot the mini from its internal HD.
*Go to System Prefs > Startup Disk. Each bootable system listed should display its OS version. Choose the specific installer you want.
*Click the "Restart…" button.
| {
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} |
Q: Spelling correction on iPod Touch How do I keep iOS from replacing my typing with something else when a correction is proposed? If I do nothing (i.e., don't choose the proposed word) and continue typing, it replaces the word I typed!
Is this possible to have the opposite behaviour—that is, to have to do something to have what I typed modified?
A: Take a look at Apple's iPod touch iOS4 User Guide. In particular, page 31 has two helpful tips:
*
*To reject the suggested word, finish typing the word as you want it, then tap the “x” to dismiss the suggestion before typing anything else. Each time you reject a suggestion for the same word, iPod touch becomes more likely to accept your word.
*Turn auto-correction and spell checking on or off: Choose General > Keyboard, then turn Auto-Correction on or off. Auto-Correction is on by default.
| {
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Q: How do I kill the "server connections interrupted" window/process? When my MacBook wakes up, away from a network it was previously connected to, it shows the "server connections interrupted" window. When I click "disconnect all", I get a spinning beach ball of death. Restarting the finder doesn't help. Logging out and restarting is not possible anymore. The only thing I can do is a hard reset.
Or is there a way to kill the process from the terminal or from the activity monitor?
Strange fact: when the interrupted connection window is beachballing, I'm also unable to invoke the 'About this mac...' command in the apple menu. Nothing happens...
A: If the issue is not common enough to find a solution on the Apple Knowlegde Base then it is most probably a rare issue caused by a corruption in the operating system or a 3'rd party application. Under these circumstances I would recommend one of the following:
*
*Reinstalling OS X (after performing a backup, preferably with Time Machine).
*Find someone else with identical hardware and software to see if their laptop does the same thing under the same circumstances (might be a compatibility issue with your wireless access point or router?)
*Make a reservation at the Apple Genius Bar, they are great troubleshooters and will be able to tell you if there is something wrong with your laptop hardware or software.
*A lot of troubleshooting information can be written to the OS X Console. Just have it running (and visible) while replicating this issue and it might print some information related to the issue.
I hope one of those steps can help you diagnose the issue, as it does not seem to be common enough to find a single solution for :-)
UPDATE: Since it appears that you are running "ADMitMac" which probably integrates with OS X in a significant way, and considering your issues are network related, there is a rather large red flag surrounding this software. I would strongly recommend uninstalling it as a trial to diagnose the issues you are encountering.
A: Good advice has already been given, however, in order to determine if there’s a specific share causing the issue, I’d suggest two things:
1) Create a new blank user, connect from there and try to see if this new user exhibits the same problem/behavior.
2) Additionally, disconnect all shares and start connecting one by one and perform the voodoo magic to reproduce the “disconnect” dialog (with each individual connection). That way you could see if the problem only manifests in some connections but not others, or all.
Do you have any server log or anything that could be an indication of a process hanging or waiting for a server response that never comes? (already suggested)
UPDATE: Today I made a test. I connected my 10.6.4 to a Samba box running an ancient version of Fedora (probably 3-4 years old). And when I had the connection open, I halted the server to get the Server connections interrupted dialog:
Here’s how my dialog looked like:
public is the name of the share and nippur is the name of the server.
Now that’s why your dialog looked weird. Are you sure you’re running 10.6.x?
UPDATE 2: You’re running 10.6.4 but using ADMitMac, which "turns a Mac into a true Active Directory client”. I suspect that’s where the problem lies. I’d disable or remove that and start from there. I’m 99% sure that without it, the problem will go away. The problem will then turn onto a new question… why? But that’s an entire new world and only Console Logs will help (plus, of course, ADMicMac’s tech support).
A: Try killing /System/Library/LoginPlugins/FSDisconnect.loginPlugin as described at http://whatsamknows.tumblr.com/post/37368603810/get-rid-of-server-connections-interrupted
A: If you are running 10.2 or 10.0 then what you are describing appears to be covered by the Apple Knowledge Base Article TA21171 (Interruption of Server Connection Can Cause Computer to Stop Responding). The solution they outline in the article:
To resolve the issue, you may have to force restart your computer using the power or interrupt button.
Avoid the issue in the future by ejecting any shared volumes before taking the actions described above.
If you accidentally trigger this issue, restoring connectivity to the server might eliminate the need for a forced restart.
A: I haven't had problems with disconnected network drives, but I have seen myself the Finder error -10810 and have always just restarted my Mac (saving all work beforehand).
This thread here suggests though, that Finder will recover itself in a matter of few minutes so give that a try.
A: I have exactly same problem. I get this aprox 75% of time when I wake my MacBook Pro from sleep. Everything works thou, so if I click share it's up and running. I guess my problem is related that network hasn't really woken up from sleep and therefore I get this annoying message dialog.
So my preferably solution would be that message box would be ignored. Does anyone know a way to do this? Or maybe shell script which would kill this message box..
I'm running 10.6.4 and not running any third party Active Directory or Network software
*
*Kriz
| {
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Mouse recommendation for iMac I have a 20' aluminum iMac (the one that came with a Mighty Mouse).
The not-so-mighty mouse started to fail, and I'm tired of trying to clean its wheel.
What's the best mouse that looks good with an iMac? It can be either Bluetooth, or USB (a short cord would be great).
My current choice is the Magic Mouse, but its lack of middle button, to open tabs in Safari, may be a deal breaker.
A: The Magic Mouse.
Coming from a Mighty Mouse you will probably miss the side buttons and middle click (who wouldn't), but you are getting gestures on your mouse and no scroll ball to screw up.
There are even some 3'rd party apps to add extra gestures, and you might even be able to get your middle click back :-)
*
*MouseWizard
*BetterTouchTool
*sesamouse
*Multiclutch
A: I will answer here and not the topic mentionned by Dori because the OP specifically said "that looks good with an iMac?".
I'm using the Pro|Click mouse from Razer. Bought it a couple years ago. I fits nicely with the aluminium keyboard and iMac.
The photo I linked above gives you a more realistic feel for its color, it's not as white as the photos on Razer's site.
After two years use I can say I'm very happy with it. The fabric on the body is great, it's a little shiny and perfectly smooth. The wheel and sides give off a nice bluey light. Coincidentally I'm using the Creative Gigaworks T20 external speakers, which also have a bright blue led on the front. So in the evening, they go rather nicely together ;)
My only complaint is the fabric of the buttons. There are yellowish patches where I place my fingers. EDIT: Which can not be easily cleaned, I precise ;) Unfortunately because the buttons are made of a different type of plastic, slightly rubberish. Personally I don't understand why they use rubbery buttons like that, but it's not a big deal.
The mouse is also very good for gaming, which is something to consider if you have gaming sessions with bootcamp.
A: I'm not so sure about "looking good" but if you want a mouse that "works good" I'd suggest something that gives back some control over the acceleration of the cursor on the screen.
The Kensington Expert Mouse (yes, I know it's a trackball) Is I think one of the best options around. And as mentioned above it gives you fine control over acceleration.
| {
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} |
Q: iHome Mouse drivers for OS X I have an iHome wireless 5 button laser mouse model iH-M130ZR and I can't find any drivers to be able to program the buttons. By default, left/right/scroll clicks work, but I can't get any response from the other buttons. Does anyone know of a program or drivers that will let me take advantage of these other buttons? Even to just be able to use the side buttons for back/forward in browsing would be great.
A: I haven't tried it myself, but I've heard good things about USB Overdrive. While the name of the utility implies that it's USB-only, it also works for devices connected via Bluetooth.
Another possible option is SteerMouse.
| {
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Q: How do I calibrate the colors for two monitors for web development? I have a Mac Pro with a dual setup running an Acer P243w and Samsung SyncMaster B2430. I have attempted making my own profile but have difficulty matching them.
Is there any better way to make my monitors match color wise? Do you have any tips?
My problem is that I am creating interfaces and the coloring appears to be 'off', between the two.
A: There some hardward-based display calibrators that usually cost $80 and up. Some names are "Datacolor Spyder3Express", "LaCie Blue Eye", "PANTONE huey".
An important issue with calibration for the web is to:
*
*Calibrate with gamma 2.2. If you're on Snow Leopard, especially if you started with it on the Mac when you bought, then it will be gamma 2.2 already. But if you use Leopard or calibrated on it, you might have gamma 1.8, which is not standard for web (and doesn't fit Windows, which also has 2.2).
*Learna about sRGB color profile, which was build for CRT monitors back in the day. Many browsers don't support embedded color profiles for images (Safari does support, though), which means they'll render uncalibrated, which means they'll be rendered in your (and other visitors') monitor' profile, which might be close to sRGB.
*You should preferably export all your graphics without profile or with sRGB profile for them to display most propertly with all brosewrs.
*Calibrating with Mac OS X build-in software calibrartion is possible but might require several iterations to get right. If your display has non-LED backlighting you should let it work for about 10 minutes before calibrarting or otherwise judge its colors, while the lamp warms up.
*You're better off try to compare some images that have embeeded sRGB profile and the same that isn't and see if the colors match in browser.
Resources:
*
*A good place to test your monitor (but not calibrate color profile) is: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/
*sRGB and other color profile information: Has great tests with hover-switching images to see how different profiles and no-profile images display on your monitor. http://www.gballard.net/psd/srgbforwww.html
*The above website has specific instructions on calibrating a Mac: http://www.gballard.net/photoshop/hardware_calibrate_monitor.html
*Calibration theory and some test images (even though more photography oriented): http://www.normankoren.com/makingfineprints1A.html
*Some Mac OS calibration process tips at http://www.khulsey.com/monitor_calibration.html
Also, S-IPS panel monitors have more consistent color reproduction at different viewing andles. If you have regular TN monitors, you might have a problem see them both at the same color from the different angles that you see them, even if each one is calibrated 100% when viewed hean-on.
And yes, it might take huge amount of time and a lot of disappointments, so be patient.
| {
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Q: Spaces and Expose Overview using the 2nd Monitor I have two monitors, and 9 (3x3) virtual desktops. When I invoke the Spaces overview mode of expose, everything gets pulled onto the primary display. It creates one overview with 3x3 desktops, although each desktop is a weird shape of two rectangles touching and offset, representing the two monitors.
I would much prefer to have both desktops used for this view, with a 3x3 display of the primary spaces on the primary display, and a 2nd 3x3 display of the secondary desktops on the second display.
Does anyone know of a defaults command or 3rd party app that supports this?
A: As far as I know, it’s not possible to show the Spaces Overview on both screens. It will always be shown in the primary display and the other will fade to black. I haven’t come across any utility that does that. Hyperspaces is nice, but it doesn’t do that. Although if you really use spaces, I’d recommend you give it a look. Read their blog and possibly ask the author if such thing would be possible for future versions. He’s working on version 2.0 at the moment and you never know… :)
A: Mission Control does this in Lion!
| {
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} |
Q: How can I stop iTunes 10 launching when pressing the Play/Pause buttons? When I'm watching a movie and I press the "play" button, iTunes 10 launches. How can I keep this from happening?
A: Just found this on Lifehacker. I think it's exactly what you're looking for. The post talks about a patch called MMFix, which changes the media control daemon to stop exactly this from happening. Apparently, it comes with a one-click installer.
And, if some reason you would like to remove the patch, just run the one-click installer again and the original rcd daemon will be restored.
(Works on OS X 10.7 Lion, too!)
A: MMFix hasn't been updated for Mountain Lion yet, but I did find this solution to work, run
launchctl unload -w /System/Library/LaunchAgents/com.apple.rcd.plist
in the Terminal.
A: iTunesPatch did the trick for me on OS X Yosemite.
Description from website:
The application will patch the Remote Control Daemon to prevent it from starting iTunes whenever you press the play button on the keyboard or an external remote control. This will only prevent iTunes from starting, all other functions (like play/pause while iTunes is running) will continue to work as before. The original file is backed up in case you would like to restore the original functionality.
| {
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} |
Q: What is the "Personal Photo Letter" intended for? Pages on the iPad has as one of its defaults the "Personal Photo Letter". What is the intent of this type of document?
A: As its name implies, the Personal Photo Letter, is a personal letter, that is, a letter written to a specific person, that also includes your photo along with your name.
It is like any traditional personal letter, only it has your photo in it.
There’s no real “intended for” situation where you must use that letter. Only when having your picture in it makes sense. I don’t know or I’m not aware of cases where using this type of letter is considered a requirement.
Sometimes when writing a resume you might want to include a presentation letter. Putting your picture there allows the reader to associate your face with the resume or CV. Other than that, I wouldn’t include a picture of me in a personal letter.
| {
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Q: Will a cloned hard drive function exactly as the original? If I buy a new hard drive and clone my original onto it (using Carbon Copy Cloner or something similar), will my computer function exactly the same as it did before? Will things like licensed programs not work properly? (I can't think of any reason they wouldn't, but you never know.)
A: Short answer: Probably
Long answer:
Technically speaking CCC and similiar tools do not make bitwise exact copies of volumes. There are detectable differences (for example, each disk will have different UUIDs). Having said that, I have never seen any software that depends on something like the disk UUID, but it is possible someone uses it as a part of a copy protection scheme or something.
One exception is Time Machine. Time Machine uses the UUID to identify the source disk. So in order for time machine to incrementally continue on your previous backup, you'll have to use the command sudo tmutil associatedisk -a.
A: As has been said, everything should work. It is easy to test this. Simply put the drive in an external enclosure, clone the current drive, then use Startup Disk utility in System Preferences to boot off of the new disk. This will allow you to verify that everything works as intended. If your original disk is mounted, you probably want to eject it to ensure the system is picking anything up off of that disk.
A: Yes, everything will work the same if you use software such as Carbon Copy Cloner and choose to move the entire hard disk to the new (or "other") one.
It is a great way to have a backup disk that will just work immediately in case if failure of the internal drive (this is how I do with my MacBook Pro), and it's a good companion (not substitute) of Time Machine.
A: Yes. I swap out drives all the time... it's basically transparent on a Mac. I've even booted my MacBook Pro's drive on my wife's MacBook Pro and vice versa. It takes a minute longer to boot as it reconfigures itself but once it starts you can't even tell the difference.
| {
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} |
Q: Battery or power adapter problem? I have a problem charging my battery.
When I plug my power adapter into my MacBook Pro, the power adapter's light turns green (it doesn't change to orange) and my monitor light turns on (which means the laptop is getting power from the adapter)—but the battery wouldn't charge.
However, when I use my friend's power adapter, my battery does charge.
Is there a problem with my power adapter or something else?
A:
PS: when I use my friend's magsafe it
charges my MacBook Pro.
Sorry if this is too obvious, but if your friend's magsafe charger indeed charges the battery without any problems, then it certainly seems like the problem is in your charger. (Somewhere in it; the cord, magsafe adapter, or some other part.)
| {
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} |
Q: Installing mc (midnight commander) without root access? How do I do that? The normal installers (with .pkg files) ask for an admin password. It is possible to run normal mac software without admin access, but how do I run and install this shell software?
A: You can compile it yourself or use HomeBrew, that doesn't require root access.
A: Compile it elsewhere on a Mac where you do have the necessary tools installed. Move the binary over to the other machine.
| {
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Q: iPad: getting back to initial screen after watching podcast I use the iPod application on my iPad to watch podcasts most days, but after watching a podcast it seems impossible to get back to the initial screen (which shows when the app is launched) without quitting the app and starting it up again. Is there some sort of secret to getting back the the initial screen?
A: You don't specify if it's an Audio podcast or a Video podcast.
in a Video Podcast, the iPod App quits and Video app lunches with the selected Video Podcast, so when you press the DONE button you are in the Videos app
iPod-app
on tap on the Podcast, opens in Videos app
Videos app http://www.balexandre.com/temp/2010-09-22_0911_001.png
so, you can't go back because you are actually in other app... though the new iOS 4.2 makes that easy ;)
| {
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} |
Q: How to convert iOS backup from 4.0 to 3.x Is there a way to convert an iOS 4 backup to format that was used in iOS 3.
I have an iPhone 3G and iOS 4 runs really slow on it. I have succesfuly downgraded the firmware back to 3.1.3 but now I can't restore data backup because the backup format is only for iOS 4. Any ideas?
Thanks!
A: No, there is no way to exchange backups for each major versions.
but you can give that a try, first you need to downgrade the firmware, and for the moment you can't downgrade from 4.x to 3.x as it already updated the baseband and there is nothing you can do now unless using hacker tricks that you need to find in specialized forums.
Then after update the device with the firmware, you just chose "restore backup" on your first connection to iTunes and pass the activation (if an iPhone)
Remember one BIG thing:
iPhone 3G runs iOS 4.0 really slow, but iOS 4.1 is sooo much faster! you should upgrade! I did and I was impressed with the speed, though now wife has it as I bought the 4th version of the iPhone.
| {
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} |
Q: How do I cancel a download in iTunes on the iPad? I have selected to download a few podcasts in iTunes on my iPad but have decided that I don't want them anymore (they're audio only and I would prefer to listen to them on my laptop instead). Is there any way of terminating/cancelling the download?
I have tried tapping, holding, and various other things in iTunes on the iPad but no luck.
Am I doomed to have to download the files and then delete them?
I ask because I'm in a country that does not have unmetered download internet plans.
A: you should be able to swipe from left to right along the item to get a delete button. The same way you used to have to delete on the iPhone before they added in multi-item delete.
| {
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} |
Q: Is there any way to set a MacBook Pro to not sleep when you close the lid? The most common use case I have for this is when I'm playing music over AirTunes, but don't want an open laptop laying around. Or when I'm syncing or downloading something.
This isn't the same as this question, which related to sleep vs. hibernation; I'm looking for a way to make it stay active with the lid closed.
A: The caffeinate command line utility (built in, at least in Mavericks and Yosemite) does just this. "man caffeinate" for more
A: You can use InsomniaX. It sits in your menu bar, and upon activating it, your laptop won't sleep if you close it.
A: I'd gladly comment on the question, but stackexchange "rep" policies do not allow me to comment. Therefore I drafted this "answer". Please bear with me! This answer aims to prevent you from going into the wrong direction.
If you open a terminal console and enter pmset -g pslog, you see what happens when you close the lid:
mc-dondon:~ dondon$ pmset -g pslog
Logging IORegisterForSystemPower sleep/wake messages
pmset is in logging mode now. Hit ctrl-c to exit.
16.11.13 01:28:57 MEZ
Currently drawing from 'AC Power'
-InternalBattery-0 55%; charging; (no estimate)
16.11.13 01:29:02 MEZ IORegisterForSystemPower: ...Sleeping...
If you google, you'll find a lot of pages which claim that pmset would do the trick. However, with respect to your question, pmset does not do the trick - at least not for me.
Neither "sudo pmset noidle" nor the often suggested "sudo pmset -a lidwake 0" will prevent the system to go to sleep when the lid is closed.
A: There's also the macosx-nosleep-extension alternative to insomniaX.
A: Without using any third-party software, Apple says you need to have an external keyboard, mouse, or trackpad (USB or bluetooth) to prevent the computer from going to sleep (Lion), or to awaken it from sleep (Snow Leopard and earlier), after the lid is closed.
It turns out that you can apparently connect any external USB device to wake it back up from sleep. I do this with a MacBook Pro that I use with Synergy so that I can use the keyboard and mouse on my Linux workstation to control my MacBook Pro with an external monitor and the lid closed. I just plug in my USB flash drive after I close the lid to wake the MacBook Pro and then I can start using it in clamshell mode with no external keyboard or mouse connected to the MacBook Pro.
A: Connect an external mouse or keyboard. Close the lid, then hit a key on the keyboard or click the mouse. This wakes the laptop from sleep even if the lid is closed.
A: I use Nosleep on My macbook pro. It sits in your menu bar and then you can double click it and once it turns blue, the laptop stays active when you put the lid down with the screen and backlight turning off.
A: This is a bit hacky but doesn't require any 3rd party software.
Opening a screen sharing session will prevent the target Mac from sleeping, even when the lid is closed and it's running on battery power. I'm referring to the built-in macOS screen sharing feature you can enable in Preferences -> Sharing. Once enabled, just open the "Screen Sharing" app on another Mac, findable via Spotlight, to connect and force the other computer awake.
As long as the screen sharing session is open the target Mac won't sleep. I can even use this trick to wake up a sleeping Mac, that's on battery with lid closed, assuming it's still listening on wifi in some lower power mode.
A: This isn't a perfect solution IMO, but it's the closest I've found without installing a third party program.
You can completely disable sleep using sudo pmset disablesleep 1. However, after doing this you can't even manually issue the Sleep command from the Apple menu. Sleep mode becomes completely disabled.
To allow sleep once more, use sudo pmset disablesleep 0.
| {
"language": "en",
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} |
Q: Is there a way to remove the artist name from a large number of titles in itunes? I have a few hundred mp3's which are labeled, e.g., "Rush - 01 - actual title of song". Is there a way to automatically remove "Rush - XX - " form the title names?
A: Try Doug's AppleScripts for iTunes . I think This one does it if not there will be something similar
A: On the payware (but excellent) side, you have Song Genie which will do all that for you.
A: MusicBrainz Picard can do file renaming and/or moving as it tags.
A: if you want pay some you can use Tune UP it's also compatible with iTunes.
and other choice for you is to use jaikoz.
A: A Better Finder Rename is a commercial product (US $20) that can, among many other features, batch-modify ID3 tags in your iTunes files. You can download a trial version and try it on a few files.
A: Another option might have been to use TriTag to assign new titles based on the names of the files.
Or run a temporary script like this in AppleScript Editor:
tell application "iTunes"
repeat with t in selection
set AppleScript's text item delimiters to " - "
set name of t to text item 3 of (get name of t)
end repeat
end tell
| {
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Q: When I put events on my MobileMe calendar, syncing causes numerous duplicates to appear Anyone encounter this, or know how to prevent it?
I'm syncing two MacBooks, an iPad and two iPhones.
Each entry appears one to five times once it syncs.
A: For each of the devices remove the MobileMe account and opt to delete all the data when asked (it usually asks if you would like to remove the data associated with that account). Then add back again and see if it continues.
| {
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Q: Are there headset adapters usable for MacBook Pros? I bought a headset, and it has a (obviously) male headphone input and microphone output. Problem is, MacBook Pros don't have a microphone input. Instead, they have an audio line in.
However, relatively recent MacBook Pros apparently combine the audio out with a microphone input, allowing, for instance, iPhone headsets to be plugged in the computer and work as expected.
So I was wondering if there were adapters that took the two jacks and merged them into a single, "iPhone-compatible" jack, that I could plug in the MacBook Pro.
A: Of course the combined jack on Macbook is analog, of course it accepts mic signals (works with apple and other brand headsets for iPhone, for example) and not just line in signals (you can even plug electric guitar with passive adaptor from iRig) and as Zneak properly points in his question, it would not be too difficult to make an adaptor that splits one headset jack on Macbooks into headphone and mic, which is also great if you want to use some top notch headset like Sennheiser PC 360. Unfortunately I was not able to find such a product, only a guide on how to make one.
Last but not least, USB headsets are in no way better. They only use extra CPU power, clutter USB ports and are only as good as the DACs, ADCs, headphone and mic they employ. Now these components are much better inside Macbook and good analogue headset...
The Headset Buddy at Amazon claims to do just this. But I am not sure how well it will work, as the headset pinout Apple uses in Macbook, iPhone or iPad is different from some other manufacturers (that is why you cannot use iPhone headset with, say Samsung Galaxy S)
A: Some two-plug headsets come with USB adapters, e.g., my current headphones (note the circled dongle).
You can also buy third-party USB adapters which should work (emphasis on the should), such as this USB 2.0 Virtual 7.1 Channel Sound Card Adapter.
However, I don't know of any adapter with standard two-plug headset jack inputs and a single-plug headset output—but I wish I did, as then it might also work for connecting standard two-plug headsets to iPhones and iPads.
A: The problem lies in the fact the “Mic” input in all the Macintosh line (Macbooks, iMacs, Mac Pro) is not a Mic input but a Line Input as it has been already stated.
A Line input expects a much higher signal than a typical microphone, so the signal is barely if at al heard if you plug a mic directly into that.
Then we have the impedance issue, the different impedance can be explained like… imagine a small water globe (the mic) hitting a brick wall (the line in). That’s what the sound coming from the Mic experiences when it “hits” the line in. It bounces back and nothing gets through.
As for your question, I am not aware of those, but you can get very cheap USB dongles that will let you connect both the headphones and the mic into a single USB. There are plenty, Creative Labs having one as far as I can remember. They are usually deprecated because most headphones for computing ARE USB directly, meaning they have the circuitry integrated.
A: Yes. As hinted by Kyle earlier, the "Headset Buddy" (about $15 from Amazon) works perfectly for this task. Using it you can use your normal microphone (and optionally headphones) by plugging them into the combined "headphone" port on the MBP (not the "audio in" port).
Note that on my MBP (Mid 2010) this functionality does not work under Windows XP or Windows 7. If you need a headset microphone under Windows, I would recommend a USB-Mic adapter instead, such as the Griffin iMic.
A: I have a USB -> female audio, that lets you plug either the male headphone jack or the male microphone jack into it, and then use the "official" female adapter on the laptop for the other. Would this help?
| {
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} |
Q: Decompressing .sit file I have recently downloaded a .sit archive file.
Is there a way to decompress it at the command line?
A: The Unarchiver
Includes a commandline tool. Can unpack some SIT files. I think I have experienced problems with a few SIT files though.
A: I’m sure that Stuffit Deluxe has two command line utilities called stuff and unstuff (they're in /usr/local/bin) as far as I can remember. But you need the Deluxe payware version.
If paying is not your idea, you could technically do the same using the free Stuffit Expander. You have to invoke it from the Terminal with something like:
osascript -e 'tell application "StuffIt Expander" to expand posix file “/path/to/full/file/compressedfile.sit”’
It might not be the best, but it should work.
| {
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"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: External disk stalls iMac I have a weird problem with an external disk connected to my 27" iMac running OS X 10.6.5.
It is a 1TB LaCie d2 Quadra and it is connected through Firewire.
I use this disk primarily for Time Machine backups, which works well and fast.
The problem is that when this disk wakes up, it locks up the complete iMac. While I hear the disk spin up my iMac is unresponsive. Then when the disk is ready, the iMac comes back to life.
What is going on here?
A: What is going on is that OS X (actually it’s the Finder and the I/O subsystem) is “waiting” for the drive to be readable.
Truth is, is not the “whole mac” but the Finder (and any Finder application) what freezes. For example, a Save/Open dialog, Time Machine starting, a Finder window, etc. However you can always cmd-tab and perform other actions.
There isn’t much you can do, except to tell OS X not to sleep your hard drives (or wait for the drive to spin up):
. Beware with that option, because it will mean that your hard drives are on all the time, thus degrading their lifespan.
I’m not 100% sure if that option affects Firewire/USB external drives, but I think it does.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2400",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Installing applications from disk images - what about the resources? I know that the way to install an application on Mac is to drag the icon from the disk image onto applications. Often these folders don't just contain an application but resources (such as a readme as well). How do I then access these resources later? Do I have to save the disk images as well? This seems kind of silly as then the default instructions for installing the application mean that you can't easily access the readme later (as the disk image has probably been saved to the downloads folder where it will eventually end up being deleted).
A: What I do in these cases (which I seem to run into fairly often lately) is create a new folder in Applications, and then drag everything from the disk image into that folder. It's one extra level, but it works just fine for almost every application.
A: As you have correctly guessed, those resources won’t be available unless the application provided an installer and/or a folder (for example World of Warcraft is a big folder with lots of things in there).
If the application is just a bundle you have to drag (like most), if you want to access any resource in the disk image at a later time, you will have to save it. There’s no other automatic way.
On the other hand if the application is a simple bundle you have to drag, there isn’t much “install instructions” you really need. When you don’t need the application anymore, you drag it to the trash.
Some applications include more stuff in the Disk Images, generating this type of confusion, but most software doesn’t have this problem, because it either has a pkg installer or a simple icon you have to drag and nothing more.
A: Things alongside the .app are sometimes aliases, sometimes duplicates of things within the .app
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2404",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: iPhone App for Weather Push Notifications Is there an app that sends weather alerts push notification to the iPhone? I have seen similar apps on Andriod but haven't seen one for the iPhone.
A: Yes... WeatherBug. I don't use it on my iPod but it works great on Android. Their product description page mentions the same functionality on iOS as on Android, i.e. National Weather Service (NWS) alerts.
On my Droid it pops up with a red triangle in the notification area when there's an alert.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2408",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Is it possible to hide the scrollbar in Terminal? In the 10.4 or maybe 10.5 versions of Terminal.app it was possible to hide the scrollbar completely. Does anyone know if this is still possible in the 10.6 version of Terminal.app?
A: As of OS X Lion 10.7 scrollbars can be hidden system-wide, including in Terminal, with
System Preferences > General > Show scroll bars
If you have a “touch” input device, like a trackpad or Magic Mouse, they are hidden by default.
A: You can copy the Terminal application from a previous version of the Mac OS X, or (if you are able) alter the file containing the user interface definition (the file ending in .nib or .xib).
A: There is not an easy way to remove the scrollbar from Terminal.app in 10.6. Your best option is to download iTerm which allows you to remove the scrollbar, and also gives you a bunch of other options that Terminal.app does not have.
A: Try LionScrollbars. It's the only thing that worked for me. Works like a charm under 10.8.2.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2409",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: Mail: Separate unread counts (badges) on dock icon for different accounts I have multiple accounts configured in Mail and I would like to see the separate unread counts in the dock icon.
I was looking at dockstar. When I google I see that another plugin Mailbadger is also available (the homepage is down for quite sometime now, and the download available via macupdate and others seem to be outdated)
Is there another/better app/plugin for customizing Mail's dock icons?
A: For all the software I searched and see the detailed specs, Dockstar is the best choice for the feature you are requesting.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2416",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: What is the best key remapper tool? I use international keyboards which have ` (~ with shift) next to Z key. I'm used to having `/~ key next to 1 (currently, this key produces § or ± with shift, which I don't use at all). My goal is to remap §/± key to `/~.
I have found several key remapping tools for Mac OS, so I want to ask which one do you have best experience with. (I use Mac OS X 10.6)
A: great question... I've been looking for a tool that will allow me to emulate TouchCursor for Windows on the mac for a long time. Tried Ukelele, DoubleCommand, and some others that I can't remember right now :) KeyRemap4Macbook seemed to be closest to what I needed, but I could never get around to configuring it how I wanted it. Your mileage may vary.
Check out this page that gives some of the aforementioned programs and start playing :)
A: Ukelele
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2417",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "9"
} |
Q: How can I allow incoming SSH (SCP) connections? How can I allow incoming SSH connections on my mac (Mac OS X 10.6.4) from other machines on the same network?
Every time I'm trying to scp something on the machine I get a Connection refused error.
A: In order to allow SSH incoming connections to your Mac, you need to enable Remote Login in Sharing Preferences pane.
Here’s a picture:
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2419",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "13"
} |
Q: What's the trivial difference between the 15" and 17" versions of the MacBook Pro? What can I ask on the phone to a Mac user who has a MacBook Pro (Alu), but doesn't know if it's a 15 or a 17 one (and don't have a tool to measure the screen)
What can I ask him to look at to tell me what version it is?
A: In the left corner of the top menu, pick the apple menu and select About This Mac.
In the About This Mac panel, click the More Info button. if you hover your mouse on Hardware you can see the general info about your macbook pro such 15" or 17".
As Dori said in comment above solution for before 2007 now choose Graphics/Displays from the left column, it does display the screen resolution.
A: If it's the unibody MacBook Pro, I believe the 15" has an SD card slot, and the 17" has an ExpressCard/34 slot. Also, the 15" only has two USB ports, whereas the 17" has three.
A: Might not be that Trivial, but the size between the side of the computer and the keyboard is larger in a 17’’ model:
MacBook Pro 15’’:
15'' http://www.sunsetmac.com/images/6615244.gif
MacBook Pro 17’’:
If the user fails to find the information as described above, you can tell him to count the number of holes (no measure required!) ;)
A: Max screen resolution in Displays preferences.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2421",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "11"
} |
Q: Make iTunes delete old listened podcasts (after a while) I would like iTunes to automatically delete the downloaded file after I had listened to it. Ideally I would like to be able to keep them for a few days after I had listened to it but it's not necessary.
Is this possible?
A: The way to control Podcast longevity is built into iTunes (although the options are limited).
Select “Podcasts” in iTunes and the Settings button should be visible in the lower part of the iTunes window:
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2426",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Italian language dictionary for Safari Is there a way I can add the italian language to Safari's built in spelling support?
A: Safari will use the language(s) that you have installed when you installed you operating system and it will try to automatically determine the language you’re typing in (provided a dictionary exists). Since you’ve mentioned Safari, I assume you are having a lot of red underlines when typing in forms in Italian.
Make sure you have Italian in your system (do you use the operating system in italian?) Do your applications open in Italian?
If you right click on a textbox in Safari and open the Spelling and Grammar palette:
You will get this:
Notice the “Automatic by Language”. I have italian there, and in fact, that list is ordered by the order of the languages in Language & Text preference pane.
Now if what you want to do is modify the built in Dictionary app to support other languages, I’ve done that in Leopard (added spanish) and I haven’t tried to do it again in Snow Leopard, but here is a very nice tutorial on how to do it.
A: Use cocoaspell to install spelling support for any language that is not preinstalled in your Mac.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2429",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: What setting causes OS X to let you resize windows behind the dock? I've set up my fair share of Macs over the years, but I've never been able to pinpoint what setting tells OS X that you're ok with being able to drag-resize a window vertically so that it goes behind the dock (assuming the dock is in its default position at the bottom of the screen), as opposed to only being able to resize it vertically so that it is touching the top of the dock's "space".
My work computer is a 21" iMac Core 2 Duo and it drives me crazy because I'll quickly drag-resize a window larger by pulling down and to the right but instead of staying locked vertically above the dock it'll slide behind it which I don't like so then I've gotta jiggle the window around to get it all back into visible space... my home computer (6 core tower) doesn't have this problem even though I've, from what I can tell, set it up nearly identically.
Both machines running the latest version of snow leopard.
Here's a video captured from my machine at home showing the window resize behaviour I prefer. If it helps at all I can do another one from my work machine tomorrow showing the windows resizing behind the dock.
A: No application will ever slide “on top” of the Dock. You can resize applications that might cover part of the dock and they will remain below the dock. If you move or hit the “zoom” button, the OS X window manager will automatically resize the window to remove the part that is covered by the dock.
A different behavior can be observed if the dock is set to “Auto-Hide” (cmd+alt+d). Since the Dock is now a “temporary visible” object, windows will cover and use that part, regardless of the Dock’s visibility at the time of the resize.
UPDATE: If the Dock is always visible, are you telling me that you can’t grab any window (in this example a Finder window) and drag it like in the picture? (The red arrow is the mouse pointer that the SSHOT didn’t capture). I was clicking and dragging below the dock.
UPDATE II: As we started investigating, turns out that the following is true:
If OS X has a secondary display attached and this display’s vertical resolution is higher than the primary display (where the menubar and dock are), then the Dock will let you resize “behind” it. I don’t have enough screen combinations to test exactly when this happens, but it’s clear to me that it only happens when there’s an external display.
Next is a shot of my arrangement. As you can see in the picture, the “gap” between the big wide screen and the vertical one on the right is what I think causes the Dock to behave like this. It appears as if the window manager takes the highest vertical size when determining the bounds. I don’t know if this is a feature or a bug.
UPDATE III*: Ok, for the sake of testing, I went ahead and modified my Screen’s arrangement (see picture). I exaggerated the placement because I wanted to make sure that there’s no weird offset acting. With the screens arranged like in the picture, my dock will not let me resize below it.
This possibly solves the “mystery” of why does this happen. I hope you can replicate it and/or find a way to work around the issue. For the record, I rarely run into this because I usually either auto hide the dock or use SizeUp to move/arrange my windows, and it doesn’t let me put windows behind the dock.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2430",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "19"
} |
Q: Is it possible to redefine what Keynote interprets as bold and normal for a particular font? When working in Keynote I like to use medium and light fonts instead of bold and normal. This causes me a problem because when I hit apple-b to embolden something I want the font to be switched to medium instead of bold, but the default is the bold font. Is there someway for me to either a) redefine what a particular presentation interprets as bold and normal or b) assign a different shortcut key to switch the font between medium and light?
UPDATE: An option c) occurs to me too: could I copy the whole font somehow and play around with its definition to replace normal with light and bold with medium?
A: To answer directly to your two questions:
a) No, you can’t redefine what is bold and what is normal as far as I know, Medium and Light are different styles than Regular and Bold and there isn’t a keyboard shortcut to set them (nor a menu item for that) and because of the latter, you can’t set a keyboard shortcut.
b) Because of (a), you can’t really do this.
A (lame) alternative is to use Copy Style cmd+alt+c and paste style cmd+alt+v. But that requires that you find a piece of text that has the same size/font.
Also having the Formatting bar visible makes it easier (albeit with the mouse) to change that: shift+cmd+R.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2431",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How to unlock an iPhone 3G with iOS 4.1? I have an iPhone 3G with 3.1.3 firmware. I want to upgrade it to 4.1, but I can't find information on how to then jailbreak it (I want it to work with any mobile provider).
Is there a way to jailbreak iOS 4.1?
A: There is not yet a readily available iOS 4.1 jailbreak. Your best bet is to jailbreak using jailbreakme.com and stay on 3.1.3. With the baseband in 3.1.3, you can still install ultrasn0w (required to unlock and work with any GSM provider)
Once the iPhone Dev Team has published an update to pwnagetool that works with iOS 4.1, it will be safe to upgrade. You can currently unlock iOS 4.1 with redsn0w, but that DOES NOT allow for unlocking via ultrasn0w.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2438",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Is there a cheaper alternative to cinema displays? Apple displays are great, except for the price.
I'm looking to replace my LG 19" display with a 24".
I can't find any screen that isn't overly widescreen, it's ridiculous ! Wide is good but too wide isn't useful, Apple 24" displays have the screen estate I'm looking for.
Dell used to do nice 24" (2408WFP) but they don't sell them anymore.
Is there any display out there which shares the ratio of Apple's cinema displays but also cheaper ?
A: How about Dell U2410. I use one at home and it is a great monitor.
A: Samsung P2770HD
27" and a resolution of 1920x1080. However only 16bits per pixel, so color banding is very visible. I recently bought one cheap. Happy about the size. Not too happy about the colors.
The Cinema displays can go up to 2560x1440 and has 24bits per pixel, so this Samsung display can only compete on size and price.
A: I'm not sure what you mean by "overly widescreen" - are you looking at these screens in person or on the web? How can you tell they're overly wide?
I'd be far more concerned with display quality than display sizing. The Dell screens I've used in the past have always been terrible at getting the color quality that a macbook pro screen has.
I'm currently using a Samsung 2333HD next to my MBP and it's a serious competitor to the apple display quality, in my opinion. To be fair, it's just under your specs at 23" but it's more than enough extra screen real estate for me and you'll surely be impressed if you're upgrading from a 19".
The newest apple display is 19.35"x25.7"x8.15" (and that's for a 27" screen) whereas the 2333HD is 16.5"x21.8"x8.5" (for 23") so very close to the same depth and 3"/4" less height/width for 4" less screen size. It's the same 16:9 aspect ratio, so you probably won't be disappointed by the width and, again, you definitely won't miss out on quality. Seems like it runs around $200 these days, I got mine for $150 on sale so you could probably search around a bit for a better price.
A: DELL U2410 is a good choice and new U2412M which use LED as backlight cost less energy.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2441",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Is there console mode in Mac OS X? Is there something like Linux console in Mac OS X? Like "terminal", but without running graphics environment.
A: Yes. At the login screen, login as >console with an admin password.
To get the user name field, open the Login Options in System Preferences and change the default login window display option:
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2443",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "22"
} |
Q: What is jail breaking
Possible Duplicate:
What are the benefits of iPhone jailbreak?
What is jail breaking? Why do people do it? What is the advantage and disadvantage?
A: IOS_jailbreaking
Jailbreaking is a process that allows iPad, iPhone and iPod Touch users to install homebrew applications on their devices by unlocking the operating system and allowing the user root access. Once jailbroken, iPhone users are able to download many extensions and themes previously unavailable through the App Store via unofficial installers such as Cydia, Rock Your Phone and Icy Installer. A jailbroken iPad, iPhone or iPod Touch is still able to use the App Store and iTunes.
It is mostly done to escape the restrictive nature of the App Store. Once you have jailbroken an iPhone you are free to install a lot of software that apple would not normally allow. Such as modifying the lock screen to display useful information, or enabling multitasking on an iPhone 3G.
A: Jailbreaking is to break out of the "jail" that Apple runs normal software in so you can do unauthorised modifications such as install your own applications or alter system components. Jailbreaking is often done by exploiting security issues in iOS and such are closed with the next software update.
If you jailbreak your iOS device the device is unsupported. While it's not illegal Apple has explicitly stated it's entirely your problem for any issues you cause. (The Genius bars won't touch a jailbroken phone unless it's been restored and the problems exists on a non hacked version of iOS).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2450",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How do I Convert FLAC files to ALAC for iTunes? I have a pretty large music library in FLAC, and I need to import it to my iTunes library somehow. I want to use the ALAC format to keep everything lossless so I can transcode to different lossy formats later if I need to.
A: I'm a fan of XLD and since the original question was posed it gained the drag-and-drop folder capabilities that the person asking the question as after. No need to install Growl to get it to work. It also handles embedded images in FLAC files when doing the conversion and will keep them in the ALAC output files.
A: Have a look at Max. Freeware and Open source. Has a GUI.
A: You could also use ffmpeg:
for f in *.flac; do ffmpeg -i "$f" -c:a alac "${f%flac}m4a"; done
find . -name \*.flac | parallel ffmpeg -i {} -c:a alac {.}.m4a
It preserves common tags, but it doesn't currently preserve artwork.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/2451",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "10"
} |
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