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Q: How do I use AUNetSend in GarageBand '09 I found this thread, about how to use AUNetSend waaaaay back in 2005- http://www.macjams.com/forum/viewtopic.php?forum=6;showtopic=28700
Double click on any instrument track in GarageBand to open up "Track Info" screen. Choose an additional effect from the area below "Compressor" (it should say "None") Go all the way down to your Audio Unit Effects and you should see "AUNetSend" and "AUNetReceive". Depending on who is doing wha,t if you are the sender, the other person has to pick the "AUNetReceive" option. Now since I don't have Tiger, this is were I get lost and don't know how this actually works from here, but if 2 people would like to experiment and fill in the blanks I'm sure a lot of people would really appreciate it!
How do I do this today? Well... should I say how do I do this a month ago, since I haven't upgrade to iLife '11 yet.
A: Assuming you’re using GarageBand ’09 (I think it’s the same in iLife ’11), you can still follow those very same instructions.
AUNetSend is an audio unit that uses Bonjour to send a stream of data in the format that you specify.
You can then modify the properties of the “send”:
The “listening” side should be using AUNetReceive…
I haven’t really tried this since the age of dawn, but assuming both Macs are in the same network, it would be more or less straightforward.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4040",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: How to ensure that spotlight indexes my entire drive? Spotlight, is a fantastic tool. Took some years, but now I use the command line tools and it's awesome. However today, I found that spotlight does not index /System (!) I'd like spotlight to index everything and that way I can cobble together a nifty IDS solution.
How can I index every single thing on my drive? Querying the last modified time would help a lot in security.
EDIT: Simply for reference.
mdutil -pEsa -i (on|off) volume ...
Utility to manage Spotlight indexes.
-p Publish metadata.
-i (on|off) Turn indexing on or off.
-E Erase and rebuild index.
-s Print indexing status.
-a Apply command to all volumes.
-v Display verbose information.
NOTE: Run as owner for network homes, otherwise run as root.
EDIT: Upon further investigation, the tool I wanted was radmind
A: From a great deal of research, and looking around, I have some data on this issue:
By default, spotlight will not index certain folders:
*
*/System
*/usr
*hidden files or directories.
*Other user files.
To add a file path to spotlight you can run
mdimport -r /path
man mdimport
has the information on that.
Now, since I am aiming for a poor mans IDS out of all this stuff, this desire being driven by the knowledge that Spotlight indexes my drive all the time, which is what would happen anyway with other host based IDS there were some considerations and other tools to involve.
Considerations:
Spotlight will only show you what your user should see
That's what the documentation says. I can see stuff I installed as root, but I can't see my other user. However,I can see /usr /usr/libexec and the /System tree. That'll do.
Hidden files and folders do not show up in the search
This will be good when the RIAA remotely scans your drives for music without proper credentials ( Trust your feelings you know this to be true. ) but is not the greatest news in this case.
To conclude, there is a lot of stuff to do to use this tool effectively. The secret is that Apple signs everything digitally.
man codesign
will tell you about
codesign -v file
which should return nothing if the file is unmodified. Note that this is not a checksum but a digital certificate from Apple, so only big money will allow this to be faked.
I of course meant to say that it will be quite secure, and easily detectable if a binary program is changed.
Won't stop everything, but it will allow me to periodically bark
"Did anything just change?" , run a spotlight search on the "kMDItemKind" attribute , pipe it through codesign -v and see if something did change, or search on modification time or whatever.
To address the userland statement above, I can check to see I have the same spotlight ( I have copied codesign to my recovery media. ) intact spotlight means that I can trust it to do it's ordinary tasks. Using the mdimport -r /path is indeed a better idea, since that will exit if run as root.
Certainly there is a question of security here, but as mentioned above, spotlight indexes a bunch of things, and shows you what you should see. Your little sister will not be able to find your collection of late 1990 artistic nudes, nor will you be able to find her secrets, but root should be able to see everything. There is a straightforward system of authorizations in OS X that govern which right a program can have, but since this is virtually unknown to most, they simply type in a password when a box comes up to authenticate something they have downloaded, and it installs as root. A certain search engines software does exactly this. Hell, the system is actually more secure than before, I ran the old python importer, and it failed, because it asked for my admin password and tried to run mdimport -r as root! I had to run it myself.
(Oh it's very nice with the python files, lovely really)
Hope this helps somebody else.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4042",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "10"
} |
Q: Where are the good docs? I have been reading the OSX security pdf from the apple site, it describes how to ensure Snow Leopard can be brought up to the Common Compliance standard.
Entirely different than the diffident documentation available from the "help" system.
I love it. What I don't love however, is the degree to which I had become complacent, treating the laptop as a secured place with a great UI to do my work. I found out today, for example, that Spotlight seems to not index /System, which is lunacy, that is the most important place to keep an eye on files!
Where is detailed documentation like this pdf available for the core system?
EDIT: Am I asking on the wrong site of the increasingly fragmented stack empire? There is no tag for 'documentation', or 'howto'?
EDIT: Found them. Developer tools,
com.apple.adc.documentation.AppleSnowLeopard.CoreReference.docset
That's the goodstuff. How to master the system, not just play with it.
A: I believe that you’re not asking in the wrong place, you’re really not asking a question. What you define like “The Good Docs” is completely subjective. The guide you linked clearly says:
Important: This document is intended for use by security
professionals in sensitive
environments. Implementing the
techniques and settings found in this
document impacts system functionality
and may not be appropriate for every
user or environment.
If you’re using this guide, you
should be an experienced Mac OS X
user, be familiar with the Mac OS X
user interface, and have experience
using the Terminal application’s
command-line interface. You should
also be familiar with basic networking
concepts. Some instructions in this
guide are complex, and use could cause
serious effects on the computer and
its security. These instructions
should only be used by experienced Mac
OS X users, and should be followed by
thorough testing.
So clearly these “good” documents are not that good for everybody. In any case,
Spotlight doesn’t index /System because that could be a security problem on its own (it would need permissions to do that, a set of permissions that you don’t want to give to a userland daemon running all the time, with access to a UI). Why would a regular user want to keep an index of /System remains a mystery to me, it only has things that are for the System and not for the user to find and manipulate.
You can, however, use the terminal to touch that if that’s what you want, but no user should ever attempt to land in /System, it can only break so many things…
Where did you get the idea that
*
*/System is the most important place to keep an eye on files ?
*Spotlight is a tool to keep an eye on files?
The place to keep an eye on files is in your very own /Users/YourFolder, because that’s all the access you should have (to write that is).
Spotlight is an indexing/searching tool, not a tool to monitor files that may seem suspicious in reserved system places.
All in all, if you still want those docs, I’m sure that most of them will be available in the developer’s area of Apple’s website. (developer.apple.com). You can create a free account and start from there.
On the other hand, if you are a “security professional” then you are using the wrong tools for your job. Spotlight is ok as it is, if anything, you might want to restrict it. I’m sure that if you make spotlight run as root it will eventually index that, but of all the possible ideas that come to my mind, that is probably one of the worst security ideas ever conceived. There’s a reason why root user is disabled by default, there’s a reason for sudo and there’s a reason for normal accounts. Use them wisely, use them in peace.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4043",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Why is my MacBook Pro constantly losing the wifi connection with my WRT150N router? My Macbook is constantly losing its wifi connection. Sometimes it has trouble connecting, other times it connects, but I obtain a server not found error. It seems to work reasonably well at work, but it can't obtain a connection at home even when I am extremely close to the router. Until recently, I used to only have wifi connection problems occasionally. My android phone seems to be able to connect to wifi without problem.
A: If you are certain that your Wi-Fi connection works fine when you are somewhere else, there might be signal or compatibility problems between your router and your Macbook Pro. Contrary to popular belief, wi-fi connections are not a voodoo thing, and they just involve radio waves, just like a cellphone and any other wireless device.
Reasons for a Wi-Fi connection being lost could be quite a lot, but usually interference and signal noise are the two primary factors. Where some devices are able to “maintain” the connection (despite the possible errors), others simply fail and drop it more often.
Wi-Fi is designed to continue working despite “small interruptions” (albeit with a decrease in performance due to ‘retries’), but sometimes this is not possible and connections get dropped.
Sometimes the problem relies in the encryption. When the network is not open and it’s traffic is encrypted, this “overhead” causes more drops than the usual.
Possible solutions are resetting the router to factory settings and reconfiguring it, changing the channel from Auto to something allowed in your country, making sure your Operating system / Computer has the latest drivers/patches/etc. and there isn’t really much else you can do.
You can try moving your router to another physical position.
I’ve read a few posts about that specific router model and Macbooks having problems, so also assume there might be a problem with that model (or some revision of the router) and OS X.
You can always try to see if the Console has some relevant error messages (/Applications/Utilities/Console.app).
A: Try using iStumbler to detect and identify neighboring and overlapping wireless access points (WAPs). It's likely an interference issue that can be solved with vigilance. You need to find out what channels your neighbor's WAPs are using, and then switch your router to use the least crowded channel you can find.
Ideally you want to use channels 1, 6, or 11. These are the channels that have the most leeway when it comes to other channels interfering with their signal. Wifi devices operating on a particular channel can interfere with other devices operating on channels up to 5 steps away. The amount of interference grows logarithmically with signal strength and channel proximity.
For example, if you are using channel 1 and your nearest neighboring wireless network is also using channel 1, you are receiving a large amount of interference. If you are on 1 and the other network is on 6, the interference is negligible. However, if you are on channel 1 and your neighbor is using channel 3, you are likely still on the receiving end of a huge amount of interference depending on their WAPs signal strength.
iStumbler will give you information about the signal strengths emanating from the other interfering WAPs, and from there you can infer the best channel to use. You may need to periodically perform the same task as your neighbors change their wifi channels.
A: I also have the same issues but with WRT160N.. I will try to reset it to factory settings and will test it again.
@Martin Thanks for the answer, I have one Q. I setup my router when I had a Windows Laptop, then I moved to new place and bought MacBook. Is reset thing is same both pn PC & Mac ?
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4044",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Simple way to see a list of installed iOS apps with their storage space size? The storage on my iPhone is nearly full. Most of the space is used by apps. I'd like to see which apps consume the most space on my device.
Is there a way to get a list of the apps with their corresponding used space? By "used space I mean the installation size (bonus for added user data).
A: iTunes will give you the list of apps you have including size (and can order these by size to make the space hogs apparent). Unfortunately it will not show you the user data size, nor will it just show you the installed apps
A: You can get both the app size as well as that of the data it stores without jailbreaking by using the free application iPhone Explorer (Mac and PC). For data you'll want to open the app folder and then look in its Documents and Library folders (primarily... there may be some data stored in tmp as well, but it never gets backed up and the device will empty it automatically when it needs space).
A: iOS 5 has now introduced a new feature under Settings > General > Usage that perfectly displays the amount of data taken up by every app on the device, sorted by top offenders.
A: You can also see it in itunes when your iPhone or Ipad is connected on the apps tab
There you can sort on size.
This is easier as you can see if the app is installed on the device or only available in itunes.
You can also remove the installed check box, so at the end of the list Sync and its all sorted
A: I managed to get a in-depth view of what is using storage space, but it's really non-trivial to do.
Basically:
*
*Jailbreak Device
Then:
either:
*
*Install iOS SMB server (You have to add an additional Repo to Cydia - It's Here)
*Mount iOS device on desktop over SMB
or:
*
*Purchase iFile, which has a WebDAV server built into it.
*Run WebDAV server on iDevice
*Mount WebDAV server on desktop. I did it on windows using NetDrive. I'm not sure what to use on OS X
Finally:
*
*Run a disk space visualization tool on the mounted filesystem. I use Disk Inventory X on OS X and WinDirStat on Windows.
Unfortunately, for some bizarre reason, all applications are in folders named using GUIDs, rather than the software name, so you have to actually explore large folders to figure out what app the folder contains. Fortunately, it's generally pretty obvious what the app is, since come of the subfolders seem to have to be the app name.
Alternatively, iFile automatically cross-references the app name with the folder name for you, so you can determine what each folder is using ifile as well.
On the whole, if all you need to do is see what apps are taking up what, it's probably not worth the effort. On the other hand, if you have already jailbroken (Which you should do anyways - it gives access to many great utilities), it's fairly simple to do.
Also, iFile is probably one of the most useful apps for an iOS device. I highly recommend it.
A: FYI, using iTunes as described above doesn't work if you don't keep your apps in iTunes! I stopped doing that long ago, after I realized how much space they were taking up on my Mac.
Since you can always download an app later, I didn't see any reason to take up all that space on my Mac.
I hope this info helps anyone like me who doesn't actually have all their apps on their computer.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4048",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "30"
} |
Q: Why can't I delete messages from my IMAP account on my iPhone 4? I have an iPhone 4 and have set up mail with an IMAP account. When I delete a message a popup says Unable to move message - The message could not be moved to the trash folder.
How can I fix this?
A: Maybe the trash folder is not correctly set on your iPhone.
Depending on the email-provider, you may have to choose the correct "deleted" folder in your account settings on the iPhone.
(maybe the translations are not literally, i am using a German iPhone):
Go to "Settings" -> "Mail, contacts ...", choose your IMAP account, choose "account info", look at the bottom and choose "advanced".
Here you can choose which folder is your trash folder.
A: I was having a problem deleting an email that said "this message has not been downloaded from server." I couldn't move it to Trash either, even after affirming the prompt to "download message from server." I finally forwarded it to myself and was prompted to download message before sending. I answered yes. I then deleted the forwarded message and the original troublesome message and all is well.
A: I had this problem and the following fixed it on my iphone 6.
go to mail
then mailboxes
find "trash" and make sure the box is checked.
Solved my problem.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4049",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: Can iPhone 4 use GPS when out of cell tower range? There seems to be some dispute on whether the iPhone can still get a GPS signal when out of cell tower range, see this archived Apple support thread, for example.
I had a friend out in the woods hunting this weekend, and he said that he couldn't get a location via gps, it was just giving errors.
Does this depend on how the app is coded? Are there specific location-aware mapping apps (like the built-in maps tool) that someone can firm either do or don't work properly with no wireless signal?
Update: I guess its kind of obvious that it entirely depends on how the app is designed. The built-in maps app tries to download map tiles from the internet, and won't be able to do that, so that probably explains his errors.
So my underlying question really is: If I'm going camping, do I need to buy a dedicated "wilderness" GPS like one of these? Or is there an iPhone app that can do the same things when away from a wireless/cell signal?
A: This summer I took some photos out of cell range and they were all geotagged so it's definitely possible to use GPS out of cell range, but some apps (like the Maps app) use a data connection to get map tiles and routing data, so those features wouldn't work if you're not in range of either cellular data or wifi.
A: Some of the GPS applications like Tom-Tom or Navigon store the data on the phone and will work without any data signal. However, they're optimized highly for roads and may not help in the wilderness. Also the dedicated "wilderness" GPS might manage better battery life, the iphone doesn't last long when running the GPS in my experience.
A: I browsed the "Navigation" category on the app store, and "MotionX GPS" and "GPS Kit" are two of the popular apps that claim to support this kind of use, including offline downloading of map packs. (Anyone have any experience with these apps?)
So it appears that this is at least hypothetically possible using the iPhone hardware. Obviously, battery life for an extended trip could be an issue.
A: Yes, GPS still works, but that only helps if you preload a map
Knowing where you are by GPS depends on your phone being able to see the satellite signals; cell towers are irrelevant. GPS signals can be blocked by tall objects (so might not work in a ravine or between tall buildings) and possibly in dense tree cover.
Being able to download a map while on the move depends on being connected to WiFi or the phone network so you won't be able to do that if you are far from a cell tower. But some apps (I have RouteBuddy atlas) allow you to download full maps to the phone before you travel so they can still tell you where you are when you are otherwise out of contact.
GPS is much more accurate that cell tower location but is also slower. Celltower approximate location speeds up the GPS but doesn't make it more accurate.
A: Most phones use the cell network to get a rough a idea of where you are (I say rough, but really it cuts it down to a tiny area compared to the size of the Earth aka the coverage of GPS) then use GPS to get the exact location. So if your out of cell range it can take something like up to 20 minutes to get the location (although that was on a Samsung phone and I noticed the iPhone is faster at GPS anyway)
The Apps have a accuracy setting so it's possible that if the accuracy is not accurate enough to use GPS it won't find your location, however I would've thought it would find your location with GPS once it realizes there's no data connection.
Turning my iPhone onto AirPlane mode (effectively taking it out of range of any data connection) and then going onto the default maps app and finding my location takes a while, and switching app while it takes this long makes it timeout.
A: Provided the Location Services are enabled on the phone, GPS will always be able to be used for locating your phone.
Outside of connectable cell tower and wifi range you'll be limited to GPS accuracy (approx 50 to 100 metres) because you won't have internet access for your phone to find out where the towers/wifi access points are to improve your position accuracy (down to say 10 metres).
The problem your friend had is they were in the woods, but GPS is line of sight only. When you're inside (and not next to a window) your phone is only using cell towers and wifi to locate itself, likewise when you're under trees or otherwise cannot see the sky, you lose the GPS signals.
GPS signals are very easily reflected by buildings, trees, etc, so in a city with buildings all around you or with trees or mountains around you, you may either lose sight of the GPS satellites or receive signals that have bounced off nearby buildings/mountains/etc which will be misleading/confusing for the GPS locator in the phone. In such cases, it either won't give you a location, or may give you the incorrect location due to what is called "multipath" error in GPS (i.e. the signal hasn't just travelled directly to you like the algorithm assumes).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4053",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "11"
} |
Q: Unexpected files showing up with tar on OS X 10.6.4 When packing and unpacking a tar file on OS X today, I find myself looking at things like:
tar tzf ../tanuki-3.5.6.tar.gz
./._.
./
./._bin
I don't think I've ever seem these extra files starting with a '.' before. If I x the file, ls -a does not show them. What are they?
A: They're resource forks. The Mac's filesystem supports multiple forks, and some Mac files have two, a data fork and a resource fork. Most file systems don't support multiple forks, so tools will split the resource fork into a separate file prefixed with ._.
A: I think you'll find that those files (or directories) came packaged within the .tar.gz file. Not normal, but any file can go into a tar.
A: Behaviour
For the sake of clarity about the issue, the following MWE illustrates what is happening:
cas$ tar --version
bsdtar 2.6.2 - libarchive 2.6.2
cas$ mkdir o
cas$ touch o/a o/b
cas$ tar cv o > /dev/null
a ./._o
a o
a o/._a
a o/a
a o/._b
a o/b
So each file and directory has a ._ file added to the tar file in the same directory, as mipadi said. This tar, let's call it mactar, avoids collisions by ignoring files beginning ._ in the input, e.g, with:
mkdir p && touch p/._a p/._b
cas$ tar cv p p/._b > /dev/null
a ./._p
a p
the existence of the p/._a file is simply ignored by tar, and so is the p/._b file, even though that is explicitly included in the CLI invocation. Thus, no collisions can occur.
Controlling tar
If you have a Unix background, you likely are unhappy about this behaviour. The mactar lacks the expected documentation: the man page is for the regular Free BSD tar and does not mention this idiosyncrasy.
However, the generation of the files for the meta forks can be disabled by setting an environment variable, so: export COPYFILE_DISABLE=true.
History
I'm not quite clear on the timing, but OSX began with the regular Free BSD tar, then Apple circulated an additional utility, tar_hfs that was the ancestor of mactar, and then, I think with Leopard, changed /usr/bin/tar to be mactar.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4056",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: What does "iTunes err = -3259" mean? I am downloading some iTunes U content in iTunes and am getting
stopped (err = -3259)
on a number of the downloads. I was hoping to find a list of err codes, but no luck. Found a lot of forum posts for other error numbers, but not that one.
Any help?
A: I turned off "Allow simultaneous downloads" and now it is consistently downloading without a problem.
A: As I search some I find that it happen because of antivirus:
What seemed to work for me was
disabling anti-virus software during
the load process. I killed my
antivirus and then hit refresh on all
of the podcasts that failed with err =
-3259 and they all finished successfully.
Long term I think we need to get apple
to resolve this issue, but in the
meantime you can temporarily disable
your anti-virus, complete your
downloads and then bring the
anti-virus back up.
And some where said that it because parental control:
Some of our users are reporting that
unchecking Podcasts from the Parental
Controls preference pane has resolved
the issue. For some of our customers,
simply going into: Edit - Preferences
- Parental Control and unchecking Podcasts
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4063",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: iPod Touch Updates Since I've upgraded from an iPod classic to a Touch, I've had a number of times when I've synced with iTunes and tracks have not been correctly updated, that is, they have not been marked as played that day, even when they have been played (all the way through).
Further, I've downloaded some tracks from a course on iTunesU, but they do not show in the playlist on my iPod Touch (despite being in the playlist on iTunes).
I'm running iTunes 10.10.54 and 4.1 of the firmware. Does anyone know if either of these are known issues, or has anyone experienced similar issues.
A: I have been asking the same question in other forums about resetting play counts when syncing.
One of the strong theories is that it is an iTunes bug caused when you recreate your library in iTunes 10 from a previous iTunes 9 file (which is what I did). Unfortunately though there is no obvious solution yet.
I have tried to solve to problem by installing a fresh copy of iTunes 9 on a separate PC and importing my existing library via the iTunes Music Library.xml file.
Unfortunately the trick for recreating the library by using the XML does not seem backwards compatible. Even if I modify the Application Version at the beginning of XML file it is not recognised by iTunes 9 and is overwritten by a new, clean iTunes Music Library.xml file.
It seems like a bug I'll have to live with until Apple fix the problem - I have submitted a bug report via their iTunes website.
Here is the thread from the apple.com forums - http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2697318
*edit*
The latest version of iTunes (10.1.2) seems to have fixed the play count reset bug.
A: These should really be seperate questions - one for the iTuensU, one for the track playdate.
As for iTunesU issue, when you plug the iPod in there is a tab for iTunesU - you may need to check that the correct items are checked to sync.
A: For iTunes U: Make sure it's getting synced, (as Samuel said). Also, if they're videos, look for a Video Playlists section under Videos. That might let you play them from that playlist.
The reason you may have to do this: Apple wants to allow you to watch music videos/iTunes U videos without the video. This makes more sense for music videos: You get the song, and they video. You can play the song without draining the battery from the video.
A: It's generally a good idea to run the latest version of iOS unless you're a jailbreaker.
To check out iTunesU content, go into the iPod or Music app and select "More" on the bottom right-hand corner. iTunes U should be in that list.
(Why do people say right-hand, not just right? It's not like hands are any different than other things, direction wise. Oh well.)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4067",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Caps lock key response delay on Apple Wireless Keyboard I've noticed a semi-handy feature on Apple Wireless Keyboard: quick pressing the caps lock key won't enable the caps lock, it needs a determined push. Benefits are obvious, it prevents accidental all-caps text when you actuALLY INTENDED TO PRESS 'A'.
Is there a way to hack this around? Adjust it or remove it completely? I like the idea, but for me it is more of a speed bump than a seat belt.
I have checked the keyboard preferences and the usability preferences as well. Keyboard delay is off and repeat delay is at minimum. There are no delay on other keys (well, except the eject key, but it requires even more determined press), and there is no delay when turning the caps lock off.
I'm on a Snow Leopard Lion and the wireless keyboard came with the mid-2010 iMac.
EDIT: It seems like the functionality is in the driver rather than in the keyboard itself. When using the keyboard in Windows 7 the caps lock key works in a regular manner. The drivers that Windows uses are standard HID Keyboard drivers provided by Microsoft.
A: Sadly, ends up the delay is built into the keyboard hardware, so it’s still there even if you remap the Caps Lock key to some other function, such as Control.
A: My main answer:
Apple deems this a feature, as documented in their knowledge base. Apple does not document how to disable the delay.
In my experience, if you remap the caps-lock key on Mac OS X (in System Preferences .. Keyboard .. Modifier Keys), and e.g. map it to Control, then the delay goes away while I am logged into Mac OS X. So as koiyu suggests in the comments here, it seems like there is some variation available between the hardware and the keyboard driver.
Remaining questions:
My own problem is that the delay remains when I boot into Ubuntu Linux, and in that context, even when I remap the Caps Lock key to Control, the delay is still present. So the vanilla keyboard driver provided on Ubuntu Linux still suffers from the delay.
So my questions at this point:
*
*How is it that the standard Windows 7 driver has no delay and the Linux driver does have the delay?
*How can one replicate disabling the delay in the context of a Linux installation atop the laptop?
A: If you have both a laptop and external mac keyboard, turning on the caps lock on both of them might work. That's because you'll trick the mac keyboard into thinking its turning the caps lock off, which has no delay. This is probably only useful if your caps lock key is something that's not caps lock, so you are always pretending to "turn off" the caps lock, when instead the key is remapped to something else.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: How to backup data for Shazam app from iPhone 3GS NOTE : I just want to backup only the data associated with Shazam app, not the full iPhone backup.
Apple recently swapped my iPhone 3GS due to some issues on the speaker, but I am having issues with 3G and WiFi after the swap. When I go and visited the Genius Bar, he suggested to restore the iPhone and set it up as a New iPhone, and not to restore via a backup copy of iPhone.
But the real problem is all the existing data is lost when I do this. So I want to take a backup of Shazam app and when I setup new iPhone, I can put this data back into the app.
How can I do this ?
A: I think there is no way to achieve this without jailbreaking the device.
I've just checked the Apple developer tools, but they only allow you to get the content of apps that you developed yourself, not apps downloaded from the AppStore. And even with these you can only backup, but not restore :-(
I'm pretty sure it's possible on a jailbroken phone, but I have no expertise in that field, so I can't tell how.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
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"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: What do I type to produce the command symbol (⌘) in Mac OS X? What combination of keys do I press to produce the command symbol (⌘) on Mac OS X?
(I copied the above symbol from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Command_key.)
A: This is the simple way on how to do it.
*
*Download BetterTouchTool
*Open the application
*Select 'keyboard'
*Click Add New Shortcut
*Set keyboard shortcut to 'Option+C'
*Set trigger predefined action to 'Paste predefined text'
*Copy '⌘' into the box.
*Click Ok
Now whenever BetterTouchTool is open all you have to do is press 'Option+C' and it automatically types the '⌘' symbol.
You only have to do steps one to eight once.
A: I also found it hard to find a straight answer for this, so I just went into System Preferences > Keyboard > Text and created a use symbol and text substitution option where when I type (cmd) it replaces it with the command symbol.
A: For what it's worth (on OSX and maybe Windows): In Libre Offices's Writer I found the symbol as the 5th entry in both the LiHei Pro and LiSong fonts.
A: The Mac Characters popup is definitely the straightforward solution if you need to insert some chacters once in a while. But if you regularly need to use Unicode characters which are not present on your keyboard then a radical solution would be creating your own keyboard layout with Ukelele that will map those characters to your physical keys.
The app is only used to create an OSX compliant layout file (XML or bundle) which can then be added via Preferences > Keyboard > Input Sources > ＋.
With Ukelele you can clone your existing standard keyboard (File > New from current input source), and remap any of the keys to your liking.
In the default keyboard layout holding the Option key ⌥ in combination with any letter/symbol key will insert extended math characters which normally are never used, e.g. œ∑´®†¥¨ˆøπ“‘«æ…¬˚∆˙©ƒ∂ßåΩ≈ç√∫˜µ≤≥÷¿˘¯Â˜ı◊Dz¸ÅÍÎÏ˝ÓÔÒÚÆ»’”∏؈¨Áˇ‰„„. Holding down Shift+Option will give you yet another set of special characters.
With Ukelele you can remap Option+key and Shift+Option+key to anything you like including Unicode emoji characters.
Here is an example of assigning ⌘ to the Option+c combination:
You can pick the required character for mapping using the built-in Characters app as explained in other answers.
Note: If you have a non-US keyboard (i.e. non-ANSI) you might need to set the correct type under View > Keyboard Type > Coding: ISO
While this might be overkill for a single character, it actually makes sense when you want to tweak other things on your keyboard and have complete control.
Once you have created your custom layout you can use it on any number of macs by simply copying it to ~/Library/Keyboard\ Layouts and then adding it in Preferences without the need to use any third party apps. The layout can be installed directly from Ukelele via the File > Install option. Once installed you still need to add it manually via Preferences > Keyboard.
Disclaimer: I am not affiliated with the app author. I simply found the app very useful in solving some issues with my keyboard which had some keys in the 'wrong' place.
A: How to type the modifier key glyphs on MacOs:
*
*"control+command+space" in any application
*type "up arrowhead" to find: ⌃ (control)
*type "option" to find: ⌥ (option / alt)
*type "place of interest" to find: ⌘ (command / super)
*type "upwards white arrow" to find ⇧ (shift)
A: If you're just looking for the Unicode versions of Mac OS X keys, you can use this Apple support document to copy and paste them:
Mac keyboard shortcuts
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201236
*
*⌘ Command (or Cmd)
*⇧ Shift
*⌥ Option (or Alt)
*⌃ Control (or Ctrl)
More generally, Mac OS X provides a pane to insert special characters. You'll find it under Edit -> Emoji and Symbols in any program that takes text input. The Command key symbol can be found by searching for it's name "place of interest". To insert the character, double click it.
If you're really hardcore and are looking for a way to type the character by entering the Unicode hex code, this is possible:
*
*Go into System Preferences -> Keyboard -> Input Sources, click "+", scroll to "others", select "Unicode Hex Input" and click "Add"
*From the input source selector in the menu bar, select "Unicode Hex Input"
*To enter a Unicode character, hold down option and type the 4-digit hex code for the character and it will be inserted. In this case, it would be option+2318.
A: If you are using keyboardmaestro simply create a macro in the Global Macro Group (if you want to have the macro available globally) as follows:
*
*Create new macro
*Give the macro a name like "insert ⌘"
*Add "Typed String Trigger": =cmd
*Add "New Action" and choose "Insert Text by Pasting"
Now whenever you type the string "=cmd" a "⌘" will be inserted.
A: For future reference, you can copy and paste from here:
⌃ <- Control
⌥ <- Option aka alt
⌘ <- Command
⇧ <- Shift
These are rendered like this:
A: You can also add Your favourite characters to "press and hold" key behaviour.
Here's explanation how to do it on apple stackexchange: How to add characters to the press and hold character picker in OS X Lion?
Keep in mind that this is done inside System directory, so be careful and remember that there's a chance of losing Your setup after upgrading the OS.
A: An answer for OSX Lion (circa 2014):
You can also type ⌘+^+Space (aka Cmd-Ctrl-Space) to bring up the characters menu, then start typing to search, and search for place of interest, then press enter to start selecting them, then tab to the correct result, then enter again to insert it.
Sounds like a lot, but it can really be narrowed down to ⌘+^+Space, typing pla, and then two presses of Return.
A: If you have TextExpander, one can also make a snippet for it, ala Dr. Drang.
He also has a Keyboard Library with snippets for a host of keyboard symbols available.
A: With the document open, place the cursor where you want the symbol,
Open the Character Viewer as described above. Type "Place of Interest" in the character viewer search field. It shows up on at the bottom of the window. Double click it and it shows up where you placed your cursor. Save it to your favorites in the Character Viewer window to make it easier to find next time.
This under OS 10.9.1 "Mavericks"
A: For my money, PopChar remains the best character/glyph selector utility for finding, browsing, and pasting characters into text.
It has been a Mac essential since the 90s at least.
https://www.ergonis.com/products/popcharx/
A: [Answer for people who type Japanese text]
Japanese IMEs are surprisingly good at finding characters.
If you are already routinely typing in Japanese, then the easiest way the get the ⌘ character is to type k o m a n d o, then press tab and return to select the character in the suggestions popup that appears:
That's 9 keystrokes but:
*
*Much easier to remember than an hexadecimal code (plus you don't need to remember how to enter hexadecimal codes)
*You don't need to install or configure anything that you don't have already.
*You don't need to start any program.
*IMEs spend a lot of effort making sure they are usable absolutely everywhere, so it works in any text field of any program.
A: If you writing out keyboard shortcuts for Mac users, I'd recommend using the Apple Style Guide (https://help.apple.com/asg/mac/2013/) way of doing this so whatever you write is consistent with other Apple documentation. In this case you would type out Command rather then use the ⌘ symbol. So, for example Paste would be:
Command-V
Alternately you could use Key Graphics.
command+V
The thing is if you are typing it out always use Command.
A: I normally use "SHIFT + ALT + K" to generate a Symbol.
Instead of using a ⌘ Symbol whenever writing anything which requires keystrokes / shortcuts because for most of the time that I have been using Apple computers it was called the "apple key" . (and the symbol physically written on the key was a and not a ⌘)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4074",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "273"
} |
Q: Is it possible to know what changes have been included in an OS X Update? My computer just downloaded an OS X update. Is it possible to know what's been changed?
A: Apple provides support articles with a high-level overview of the changes in an operating system update. For example, here's the one for Mac OS X 10.6.5:
What's included?
General fixes and improvements
*
*Improves reliability with Microsoft Exchange servers.
*Addresses performance of some image-processing operations in iPhoto and Aperture.
*Addresses stability and performance of graphics applications and games.
*Resolves a delay between print jobs.
*Addresses a printing issue for some HP printers connected to an AirPort Extreme.
*Resolves an issue when dragging contacts from Address Book to iCal.
*Addresses an issue in which dragging an item from a stack causes the Dock to not automatically hide.
*Resolves an issue in which Wikipedia information may not display correctly in Dictionary.
*Improves performance of MainStage on certain Macs.
*Resolves spacing issues with OpenType fonts.
*Improves reliability with some Bluetooth braille displays.
*Resolves a VoiceOver issue when browsing some websites with Safari 5.
*Improves Bluetooth pairing with Magic Trackpad.
*Resolves performance issues with third-party displays that use InstaPort technology.
*Add SSL support for transferring files with iDisk.
*Resolves an issue when opening 4-up Photo Booth pictures in Preview.
*Addresses keyboard responsiveness issues in the Dock when Spaces is turned on.
*Resolves an issue syncing Address Book with Google.
*Fixes an issue when replying to a Mail message sent by a person whose name contains certain characters such as é or ü.
*Improves performance for users bound to an Active Directory domain.
*Improves reliability of Ethernet connections.
*Systems with a Mac Pro RAID Card (Early 2009) installed can now be put to sleep. For more information, see Mac Pro RAID Card (Early 2009): Enabling system sleep.
*Improves reliability of fibre channel connections, resolving a potential Xsan volume availability issue.
*Adds RAW image compatibility for additional digital cameras.
*Security improvements; for information about the security content of this update, please visit this article.
| {
"language": "en",
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Q: How do I view a song's composer on my iPod touch? Is there any way of viewing the composer of a particular song in the Ipod Touch? I know you can sort songs by composer, but what I want to do is while listening to a particular album (classical music), view the composers of the different songs.
A: There's a small app you can find here
Don't worry, it's all Japanese. But the app works really fine and reads all (!) ID3 tags of the current song playing.
Since I am listening preferably to classical music, too, I hate iTunes non-existent ability to show all relevant tag information.
A: I don't think this is possible in the default 'Music' app which is quite simple and straightforward. The only solution would be to add the composer to the track's title but I suppose you already thought about this one...
Finding another app for paying music but with more options would be another solution. Are you open to having another application for playing music?
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
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} |
Q: In iOS 4.2, how do you search within a web page in Safari? I already have it installed (the gold master), but I can't for the life of me figure out how to search a page.
A: Searching in a page has been added on to the Google (or whatever you use) search facility. Just tap the search field and enter your search term. Instead of launching the search, scroll down to the bottom of the suggested searches and there will be a section labeled "On This Page". Tapping "Find "___________"" will launch the in-page search feature.
A: An unofficial method is to use the "Find In Page" bookmarklet. Available here.
| {
"language": "en",
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} |
Q: Why does the Finder run at such a low process priority? I'm at a bit of a loss about this.
I'm running a big import in aperture, and it's causing my system to slow down to a complete crawl, basically rendering it unusable for anything, even browsing the web. Since this seems a bit unnatural, I spent a little time looking around.
Running ps -Al shows that, apparently by default, the Dock, Finder, and SystemUIServer all seem to run at a priority far lower then userland applications. While user applications typically have a priority of 33, the Dock, Finder, etc have a priority of 53.
The end result, is ANY processor intensive task completely clobbers the UI, and renders the system unusable until it finishes.
Anyways, using renice -20 -p <prid> bumps them up to the same priority as the rest of the userland UI, and results in not having to wait 1-3 seconds (!) for the UI to respond to something as simple as a mouse click.
Thad said, I have two questions:
Is there any reason I shouldn't be altering the thread priority of the finder like this?
Is there any way to make the priority change persistent, e.g. so it stays that way after reboot.
A: I'm not sure anyone short of Apple's own developers would be able to answer this question, Finder's inner secrets are their domain. If you do think there are some noticeable lag problems with the UI you might want to submit a bug report to Apple about it.
Judging from the sound of things (processes intentionally taking up all resources) this is a bit of an edge case for memory management. I've yet to see a system perform at their best without somewhere around 10-20% resources free, as a buffering aid.
Just curious, what are these processes you're running?
A: "I'm running a big import in aperture, and it's causing my system to slow down to a complete crawl"
Then Aperture is (probably) the program you want to renice, not the others. The processes you mentioned are tuned relative to average user applications, so that user applications get higher priority and remain responsive, since they are what users use most of the time.
Your case is the less-common one, where an application is performing a long-term, intensive task and the user wants to do something else at the same time. By default, it's the user's applications that get priority so that these intensive tasks get more resources and complete sooner.
For every user that complains that other applications aren't being responsive enough, there is another user complaining that the active application isn't running fast enough.
If you are running a long, resource intensive task and you know you want it to have lower priority so you can use other processes while the task completes—and you don't mind if the intensive task takes longer—you should lower the priority of the process running the intensive task.
As for your second question, there are several possible solutions for making the renice more automatic. For example, you could create a script applet that runs Aperture at a lower priority and use that to start Aperture. Or you could start Aperture via a shell script stored in a *.command file (however, that will open Terminal and run the command in a terminal window, which may not be what you want). Each of these is a little involved. If you would like examples, I can see about providing them later.
A: I posed a similar question - long ago, on ServerFault - though not as specifically focused on the Finder (although I DO find the Finder to be intolerably slow, as well). How to permanently “renice” a process on Mac OS X (or iOS, etc)? Not much info was gleaned there - as to a good way to do this… or as to why it is such..
I still think about this often, and there are actually a few ways to muss with the "basics" if you so dare. As previously mentioned, you can do various shell chicanery.. but a good place for such misdeeds are the various /etc/rc* boot routines.. which are already up in there.. setting all sorts of arbitrary (apple-defined) system parameters for you. either edit those, or lookup how to add your own routines to the boot process.
also, if you really want to make your head explode..
sudo sysctl list and it's key to pandora's box, aka /etc/sysctl.conf
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "13"
} |
Q: Is this nice extension of Mac OS 9 still available on OS X? There was an extension on Mac OS 9 system that I could not live without : This extension offered the following feature :
When a "Choose a file / folder" dialog box appeared, you were able to click on a "visible" opened window to make the selection box "jump" to that particular place in the tree structure of the disk (on the network).
Is there something like this on OS X ?
A: Not exactly the same but if you drag any file or folder to the dialog panel then it will jump to the location of the dropped item
A: You are looking for Default Folder X.
| {
"language": "en",
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} |
Q: Run Command Line Script from Finder's contextual menu I have a shell script that deletes exif data from images.
I would like to right-click the folder with the images and execute the command from the context menu. How can I do this?
The Shell script is:
exiftool -all= -overwrite_original test
where test is the dir with the images
A: If you're using Snow Leopard, you can create a Service, and it'll show up in a submenu of the contextual menu (as well as in the Services submenu of the Finder menu). To do this:
*
*Run /Applications/Automator.app
*Choose the Service template
*Set the Service Receives Selected pop-up (above the workflow column on the right) to "Files and Folders"
*Find the Run Shell Script action in the second column (the search field at the top can help), and drag it to the workflow column
*Set the action's Pass input: pop-up to "as arguments"
*In the template script that appears, replace echo "$f" with exiftool -all= -overwrite_original "$f" -- the script should now look like this:
for f in "$@"
do
exiftool -all= -overwrite_original "$f"
done
*Save the Service with some descriptive name
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4092",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: Changing sort options in icon view Is there any way to sort files in any way other than NAME while in ICON view? This is typically when in a file dialog (i.e. browser upload window) there are no options for sorting by Last Modified or similar, you have to be in DETAIL view for that.
Please see this screen shot as an example: http://cl.ly/0w0f3L0z3z0Q2n2E042F
A: No.
I would suggest heading to http://bugreport.apple.com and filing a bug there. Apple does base, in part, what they do on the number of similar bug reports they get. If enough people want this same enhancement and file bug reports, there is a good chance Apple will get it done.
A: File dialogs have had a pop-up menu for changing the arrange by mode since Lion:
There's still no way to change the sort by mode in icon view or column view. And the shortcuts for changing the sorting modes don't do anything.
| {
"language": "en",
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"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: How to back up Windows 7 on Boot Camp to a Mac-formatted external drive? I have MacBook Pro with latest Snow Leopard on it. I just bought an Iomega eGo external HDD for Time Machine backup.
I also run Windows 7 on Boot Camp partition and I normally use Parallels 6 to run it, but I noticed that Time Machine does not backup Boot Camp partition.
I went to Windows 7 Backup and Restore tool to see if I can backup Windows separately but it didn't recognize my Iomega HDD probably because it's Mac-formatted.
I discovered MacDrive that allows Windows to work with Mac-formatted disks. I'm wondering if that will allow me to use Windows Backup and Restore tool to backup to Iomega HDD.
Will it work?
What is your Boot Camp Windows 7 on-site backup strategy? I'd like to avoid buying another external HDD for Windows...
A: Using Snow Leopard Disk Utility, I made three partitions on an external hard drive:
*
*HFS+ for Time Machine
*MSDOS, subsequently converted to NTFS, for Windows 7 backup
*EXFAT for shared media e.g. iTunes Library
I have not yet made a final decision about what backup package to use for Windows 7. At the moment, I'm using Microsoft's Windows 7 backup solution, with manual image files, and trying to keep any data files in the Cloud.
I do not yet have even 10 days experience with this setup.
A: I keep my documents on the Mac side as I'm pretty much only using Parallels to run my BootCamp install, so that way they're backed up. I don't really mind doing a fresh reinstall of windows if something goes wrong.
A: WinClone
Saves your whole Windows installation as an image that you can restore later. Excellent for backing up and restoring Windows bootcamp installations, but the developer is gone, but the software may still work though.
Some people say it works on Snow Leopard, while it doesn't. I'm planning on using it in a hard drive upgrading, but that's just me. Should work fine though.
A: I'm using iPartition and Disk Utility for this. Makes sparse images (i.e. doesn't copy empty space from Windows side). Could be more automated, but I'm pleased.
See my blog from 2/2011 on this:
http://openduck.blogspot.fi/2011/02/backing-up-boot-camp-partition-with.html
| {
"language": "en",
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"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Can iOS 4 connect automatically to a closed network with a hidden SSID? Problem: (stressing the "automatically" in the question title).
I add the hidden network by selecting "other" and entering the SSID. There is no security right now in order to simplify troubleshooting. When the iPod 4 sleeps, goes out of range or the wifi radio is turned off and then on, the iPod will not re-connect to the hidden SSID once within range again. Strange, considering I reset the network configurations before setting up the 1 and only network the iPod 'knows' as well as having installed a configuration profile on the iPod with the wi-fi settings for this hidden SSID. Nothing i try seems to get the iPod to connect automatically. The hidden SSID does appear in the list of networks when I go into wireless settings, but thats not good enough - the iPod needs to connect to the hidden network without any user intervention.
I should mention the router is a cisco aironet 1100 series AP. The AP has 2 SSIDs: the hidden network and a "Guest" network, and it is broadcasting the Guest network. The Subnets are different, in case anyone was wondering. Also, No, i cannot broadcast the hidden SSID; I'm not looking to change the network settings.
The iPod is running iOS 4.1(8B117) and is a 4g model.
Thanks,
Austin
A: *
*Note -- I haven't tested this or worked with a similar configuration *
It isn't clear from your description -- does the iPod auto connect to the "Guest" network?
If it does, in the Wi-Fi settings I would (in the WiFi settings) turn "Ask to Join Networks" off then tell the machine to forget the "Guest" network, then connect to the hidden network again and then sleep the device and see if it reconnects to the hidden network.
Or -- Go to Settings then General then Reset and then Reset Network Settings, then power off and power on the device, then reconnect to the hidden network.
Or -- you could also try Apple's iPhone Configuration Utility, which allows you to set profiles for iOS devices. I haven't messed with this at all, but some folks have mentioned it as a fix.
A: Okay, so this solved the issue for me. Could ber completely wrong because my fix isnt ipod/Iphone related, although the same proplems described above have happened to my ipod.
*Please note: Precedure will vary for other routers. These instructions are specific to Netgear DGN2000 Wireless-N Router with Built-in DSL Modem.
Step 1. Using your computer, log into your routers login/Manager page. my default login address is * http://192.168.0.1 *
Step 2. Under setup (on the left hand side) click Wireless Settings.
Step 3. In the first section under "Wireless Network" there is a sub-heading "Mode".
Select the desired wireless mode. The options are:
* g & b - Both 802.11g and 802.11b wireless stations can be used.
* g only - Only 802.11g wireless stations can be used.
* b only - All 802.11b wireless stations can be used. 802.11g wireless stations can still be used if they can operate in 802.11b mode.
* Up to 130 Mbps - Wireless stations that support up to 130 Mbps can be used, such as the WN511B. In this case, your router will transmit two streams with different data in the same channel at the same time.
* Up to 270 Mbps - Wireless stations that support up to 270 Mbps can be used, such as the WN511B. Your router will run in channel expansion mode to achieve 270Mbps. This mode will support 40MHz or 20MHz bandwidth. The router will transmit data with expansion or no expansion frame by frame to avoid interference from other APs/clients data transmission.
The default is "Up to 130 Mbps", which allows all 11b and 11g wireless stations. The NETGEAR WN511B runs at 126 Mbps or 270 Mbps when accessing this router.
Mine was set on "Up to 270 Mbps" mode. the iPod/iPhone's do not support this mode very well.
THe best choice i found was the "Up to 130 Mbps" mode.
My iPod connected straight away and has worked perfectly with my hidden network.
Step 4. Be sure to save and apply your settings.
If this helps anyone, please post a reply. Interested to know if this is "one" solution to what could be one of many problems on this topic, actually works for others.
<3 Dallen :]
A: Interesting scenario, I don’t believe there’s an existing easy solution to this problem. Part of the problem in solving this particular issue, is that the iPod (and its iOS) are fairly closed environments where you can hardly modify anything beyond what the UI offers. If the device is not reconnecting (despite having knowledge of the network), there’s no magic option to “flip” and expect it to work; especially considering that you’ve stated that nothing on the networking side should/must be changed. Even if changing certain network parameters in the router were allowed by you, I don’t recall anything that could help you there. You might want to try (for the sake of testing) disabling the “other” network, or little things like that. Not because you will necessarily reach a solution, but at least you might find the root of the problem or the cause and either find a workaround or… spiritually deal with it. ;)
| {
"language": "en",
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} |
Q: Safari has some strange colors now Safari has suddenly started showing some strange GUI colors on the bookmarks screen. They seem to have started shortly after applying the latest iTunes update, although not IMMEDIATELY after (a few hours, and only after rebooting my machine). This is what it looks like now (I have not changed any settings):
Is there a way to make it appear normal again?
EDIT:
I have uninstalled, rebooted, and even tried removing all apple settings from my "AppData" directory. Nothing is helping so far.
A: I don’t have a lot of Windows Expertise, but I assume that uninstalling Safari (and iTunes) and try installing them from scratch (after a nice reboot), might fix it.
A: I'm not a Windows 7 user, but I'd guess Safari is inheriting these colours from your appearance settings in your control panel, especially if you've deleted AppData/reinstalled.
Have a try playing with your Display Control Panel (especially the window appearance settings) to see if that fixes things, maybe Safari is using non-standard windows' colours for its bookmark background.
Windows XP's Advanced Appearance Window:
A: Its due the the color management profiles on various screens. A fix can be found at http://support.microsoft.com/kb/939395
*
*Click Start, type Color Management in the Start Search box, and then press ENTER.
*In the Color Management dialog box, click to select the Use my settings for this device check box.
*In the Profiles associated with this device list, click the color profile that you want to remove, and then click Remove.
*Note If you receive a warning message, click Yes.
*Close the Color Management dialog box and then restart the computer to apply the setting.
I also found if you just delete the other one, then re-add sRGB IEC61966 2.1, and set it as default, you don't even have to reboot and it just works. and it solved the same issue I was seeing in other Applications, but mostly Safari
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4102",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Is it possible to upload files to a website from Safari on iPhone? I'm trying to upload a photo from my iPhone 4 to a website. However, the browse button to display the select file dialog is disabled. Normally this works fine on my Windows PC. Should I be able to select image files to upload from Safari on iPhone?
A: Specifically the browse button is disabled because there isn't a file browser (like Windows Explorer/Finder) on the iPhone. Most people don't notice that, because the iOS is designed around avoiding the need for a user interface to the iPhone's file system.
For simplicity's sake file management is turned into a programing problem instead of a user problem. For security's sake applications can't directly access the documents of other applications.
As Jawa mention, a lot of sites have iPhone applications to allow uploads.
A: No, uploading from mobile Safari is not possible. That's why about every other site that utilizes user uploads (e.g. Flickr, Facebook, Picasa) have either made their own upload app for the iPhone, or there are some apps that can handle many sites, such as Pixelpipe.
A: As of iOS 6, Mobile Safari now supports file (image) uploads, from the Camera Roll, albums, and photostreams. Note that iOS 6 is only available for the iPhone 3GS and newer.
A: You can't upload files using mobile Safari.
Even though, you can either use iCab Mobile browser which support file upload or can use native iOS applications which are seamless integrated with a webspage. Here are some of them:
QuickPic
Aurigma Up
A: You can enable the browse button in Mobile Safari using a Cydia App: Safari Upload Enabler.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4104",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "11"
} |
Q: Rhapsody + Mac OS X I've been using the music service Rhapsody for over a month now, and I really like it on my iPhone. Unfortunately, I spend most of my time in front of my computer, programming. I'm kind of so-so on the web client for Rhapsody, and I particularly would like to be able to download songs to my Mac. I don't have access to a (legally obtainable) copy of any version of Windows, so VirtualBox/Parallels/etc. is out. Wine doesn't really work with the Windows Rhapsody client. Has anyone else encountered and/or solved this problem? Switching from Rhapsody to some other service isn't really an option either, since so far, at least, no other "all-you-can-eat" music service has an iPhone app with downloading allowed.
A: Spotify has all that, but I’m not sure if you can use it in your country. Have you tried it?
UPDATE I found out that you’re in the USA, and Spotify only works in a few European Countries… unless you’re a “Premium” user; the catch is that you need to create your account from within Europe. I.e.: if you are european and want to travel, you can “take your music with you”… if you’re not a free user. Otherwise you can only use Spotify for 14 days until you return to your country. sorry about that.
A: What about Napster? They have an iPhone and a web client and their pay scheme and service is similar to Rhapsody:
Find your favorite music in Napster’s
catalog of 9 Million songs. Buy songs
on your phone, they will be sent to
your computer so you can transfer them
to your phone, MP3 player, or iPod®
Listen without downloading on any
connected computer—PC or Mac, desktop
or laptop. Get instant music at home,
at work, at a friends house, at a
party... you get the picture.
Pricing plans:
http://www.napster.com/index.html?darwin_ttl=1290019245&darwin=s1010B®flow_id=s1010B&naps_app_id=0
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4108",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How Do I Transfer A Project File Created Using iMovie 7 To A Hard Drive? I've made a movie project in iMovie 7, but it's taken 3GB of space on my hard drive and I am lacking space right now, so I need to move it out onto a external hard drive.
How can I do this?
A: I’m not sure I understand you… you created a Movie Project in iMovie 7 (which if I’m not mistaken is the iLife ’08 version) and now you want to move it to an external drive?
You don’t mention your Mac OS X’s version but that shouldn’t really make much of a difference.
Ok should the above be correct, you have to locate your project in your hard drive. It will be probably located in your Movies folder. Assuming you have connected your external drive and the drive is ready to use (i.e. Partitioned and Formatted) for OS X, you simply have to open two Finder Windows (use CMD + N to open a new finder window).
After you have the two Finder windows, navigate one to where you see the project in your /Movies folder. and in the other Finder, go to your external drive.
Click in the iMovie project and Drag it to the other finder window (don’t release the mouse/trackpad button). When you reach your external drive, release it.
It will be copied, not moved. When the copy is over, simply drag the old one to the Trash. :)
I’m sorry if this sounds too simple (or too complicated), the thing is that the nature of your question could be as simple as “how do I copy a file in OS X” or as complicated as “I got a new hard drive and I want to use it”. Both things are not complex, but the instructions for each are completely different. :)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4110",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Apple TV (2nd generation) - video quality seems poor I thought I'd switch from a Mac Mini to the new Apple TV (2nd generation) as my primary video device.
Unfortunately I find the video quality disappointing: Text (menus, etc.) is shimmery, and video seems coarse, like broadcast TV. I've tried it with an iTunes rental, with Netflix, and with a movie streamed from a computer. The results were poor each time. I switched back and forth between the Apple TV and the Mac Mini to confirm, and the image is indeed much sharper on the Mini.
The Apple TV is connected via HDMI to a Sony KLV-S32A10 32" LCD with 1366x768 native resolution.
Is this normal?
A: The problem was with the TV settings - it has three "Picture modes": vivid, standard, and pro. It was set to vivid, which adds artificial sharpening. With this set to "Pro", it looks terrific.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4122",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: Mute specific program Is there any way to mute a specific program? I want to be able to mute Firefox.
A: Here an answer from our friends over at SuperUser.
TL;DR: You can, but only with some extra software. They suggest AudioHijack Pro
A: AudioHijack is the only software I've found that can route application sound. If you are looking to capture/block sound from Chrome/Chromium you are out of luck though. AHP cannot handle that software yet due to the way Chrome's processes are spawned on the fly.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4124",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "11"
} |
Q: What are the folders in OS X that I should know about? I just got my first Mac (a MacBook Pro) last Sunday and I am LOVING everything about it so far! But, I am a little confused about the folders in OS X.
Please go through the folders I should know about, and the folders I shouldn't worry about (or should stay away from). I have a little Linux knowledge to go off of, but things are still different enough that I'm disoriented.
I'm running the latest, at this time of writing, version of OS X 10.6.5 Snow Leopard. But if any folders have changed over the past few versions, please note them! :)
A: I’m going to resume them by memory, so future edits will probably fix all the mess I might type now. :)
The file structure of OS X resembles a typical Unix/Linux operating system (which in fact is the root of it all), albeit with some “Apple” differences. Some of those differences have aliases to keep the “unix” heart happy, but some are simply modified to be used as such.
In short here are the major “folders” in your file system:
*
*/Applications : This one is self explanatory, all your Mac’s apps should go there (unless you have an app that you want to be visible for only one user…). Normal users can read, “admins” can also drop things in there.
*/Developer : if you install Xcode and the developer libraries, this folder will magically bring the unicorns for developing awesome Cocoa apps, iOS apps and dashboard widgets among other things. Otherwise the folder doesn’t even exist.
*/Library : Shared libraries, and files necessary for OS X to actually function. Preferences, settings, app stuff, browser plug-ins (or more specifically, how to get rid of Adobe’s Flash) ;) You usually don’t tamper around here, but it’s normal if you want to clear some Apps settings, fix something, remove or install browser plugins, extensions, etc. Sometimes you will venture into /Library. Handle with care and always backup before breaking stuff here. It would be hard to destroy an OS X install by tampering /Library, but it’s possible…
*/Network : All network libraries, servers, devices, etc. You shouldn’t be here unless you know what you’re doing and want to bypass GUI utilities. In almost 7 years of OS X, I’ve never touched this directory.
*/System : Everything that OS X needs to properly function is here. I’d say that you shouldn’t touch anything or problems will arise.
*/Users : This is the equivalent to Unix and Linux's /home directory. And here you will have sub directories for each of your users: /Users/John, /Users/Doe, etc. Inside your home folder you will have a “similar” structure. See later for more /Users’ love.
*/Volumes: Mounted stuff/devices and volumes, real or virtual (think of CDs, DMGs, samba shares, etc), get their own “directory” here. So if you mount a smb share called MyShare, you can ‘cd /Volumes/MyShare’ to access it from the Command Line. The Finder will happily hide this from you (unless you set it to show invisible files I think).
*/bin : What else can be said about bin that you don’t know already from your Linux knowledge. Same thing. If you install ‘git’ for example, it will go to /usr/local/git… so you get the idea. Obviously all the essential common binaries are here too. Think the command ‘ls’… it’s there, in all its glory.
*/etc : Oh the great “etcetera”… Just like any other Unix, local system configs and… etcetera. It’s “similar” to any other unix, with some Apples. But the purpose is the same and some of the files (rc.local for example) exist. Go ahead and take a look, but if you break it, you have to pay for it. (OS X uses ‘launchd’ to launch stuff, so google for that if you want to -for example- start a subversion daemon at startup, forget all you knew about runlevels). Otherwise, get insurance between tweaking too much in there, because it’s not covered by Apple Stack’s Exchange damaging policy ;)
*/dev : honoring it’s “unix” background, the device files representing peripherals are here. Who touches this anyway…
*/usr : I googled for a good description of this and came up with a clever one:
"Second major hierarchy, includes
subdirectories that contain
information, configuration files, and
other essentials used by the operating
system”
*/sbin : Also coming from the Unix nature of OS X, the system binaries, and administration utilities. These are not the droids you’re looking for, move along, move along.
*/tmp : The one and only temp directory! Batteries not included. Note that this is not the “trash”. This is the real Unix temp. Unless you like being around waste, you shouldn’t have to wander around there. Cron jobs will keep it clean (tho it doesn’t hurt to restart your OS X every now and then).
*/var : Var is for variable data. Logs, and stuff that will “vary” during the operating system operation. You rarely walk through these rapidly changing places, but sometimes you have to hunt for logs or errors. Bring and umbrella there, it changes very often…
Ok and what’s with this /Users thing?
The Users folder contains your ‘home’. You have easy to identify folders (i.e.: if you can’t identify what Music, Documents, Movies, Downloads, Desktop and Pictures are for, then the problem might lie elsewhere), but at the same time, there are notable “duplicates”. What? Yes. You have a Library and an Applications folder here too!
I believe you’re already guessing what is all this about. Yes, all application settings that are for the user only will go in here (to ~/Library). That means that, although OS X will first look at /Library, if you install a (for example) browser plug-in in your ~/Library (instead of /Library), it will be found, but only by you. My ~/Applications folder is barely empty, it contains some Steam (games) in there, apparently they go there and not /Applications. (I just checked, i didn’t know that, so go figure how often I use my home’s App folder).
update: Apparently this Application folder in your home directory doesn’t exist by default, but you can always create it and drop applications you want to keep for yourself. If you have no permissions to install stuff in /Applications, you can always use a private copy of an app in your ~/Applications folder.
Things not mentioned above that you might have
*
*/opt : (tional). As its name implies, it’s sometimes used by daemons as a place to store suff (but it’s usually optional, so you can put those things elsewhere). I remember that when running Subversion daemons, I had that directory and the repos would go to /opt/svn/repositories, but that was just me… never trust me.
*/private : The best way to understand why we have this strange directory here, is to simply go ahead and read it from an expert (or read it directly from the question in Apple SE.):
…and I quote:
"AIUI it's a holdover from NextStep
(which OS X is based on), and NextStep
did it to support NetBooting. The idea
was that you could boot from a
network-hosted volume (probably
read-only, and certainly shared with
other computers), and early in the
boot process mount a local (writable)
volume on /private; as g mentioned,
this allowed runtime-modification of
/var and /tmp, as well as per-computer
settings in /etc.
This isn't needed anymore, as Apple's
current NetBoot system uses a shadow
disk image to store changes anywhere
on the boot volume. But some
programs/docs/etc now assume the files
live under /private, so it'd be too
much trouble to switch them back…”
So there it is, this is more or less the OS X’s file hierarchy. Don’t drink and drive around it, it’s more fragile than what it looks.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4125",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "16"
} |
Q: Textmate: removing sidebar on the left Is there a way to remove this sidebar from Textmate?
A: From the View menu, select Gutter, and click to uncheck all of the selected view options there, i.e. Foldings, Bookmarks, Line Numbers, and Soft Wrap Indicators. Once all of the above are unchecked, the gutter will disappear.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4127",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: Easiest way to deploy a slideshow/video onto multiple iPads and have it play by clicking on 1 icon Looking to set up approximately 10 iPads for a presentation where each one has a single icon on the main screen that then immediately loads a slideshow/video.
Challenges/thoughts:
*
*Would prefer the video to be saved locally to the iPad so we aren't dependent on the video loading from a shared Internet connection.
*Preference is that they click an icon and the video autoloads full screen, would prefer not to have load/select a specific video file and hit play
*Ideally want there to be a custom icon on the desktop for this video : this, I assume may require a safari bookmark saved to the home screen (which requires the video to be hosted...)
*What is required to initialize 10 iPads at once? Each will need to be synced to iTunes I assume? Will they then need to be reset to work in the future with each individuals computer/iTunes?
*If the video is stored locally, I was thinking I would use oPlayer or VLC so that the file doesn't have to be synced via iTunes - it can just be stored within the iPad filesystem
A: For reference, the iOS SDK (in case you decide to create a small application that plays the quicktime video), can only read stuff that is:
*
*Inside the Application’s bundle
*the “temp” application’s user’s document directory (not shared between apps)
*Use the APIs to read the user video/audio library.
Number 1 and 2 would require that you create an iOS app that includes the video as a resource (which will -depending upon the video’s size-, make it a huge app)
Also creating an APP and deploying it, requires an Enterprise Licensing from Apple (so you can deploy to your company iP/ads/ods/hones). So I don’t think thats a good (and cheap) idea.
Using option number three you could go with VLC or something but they would have to pick the video from a library.
what would I do?
I’d set up a wi-fi network, with a local webserver that hosts the page. Then create a webclip on the iPads. All hardcoded. The WebClip could point to a real webpage, but a DNS “forging” inside your closed network could point it locally while they are there. This way, when they leave, if they take the iPads with them, the link will continue to work when they regain internet, as the DNS will be correct and point to the “external” website.
If the network is “closed” you can set it up in advance. A good 11n router should handle that.
No syncing, no weird app, no need to tamper each individual’s ipods…
Any catches?
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4132",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: "Remove personal information" default save in Office for Mac 2011? Is anyone aware of a way of setting Office for Mac 2011 to automatically use the "remove personal information" option on every save?
A: The best way I can see of doing this is to modify or create a new blank template with the setting baked in.
*
*File -> New From Template -> Blank
Document
*Make Privacy changes as
before
*Save as Word Template (This will normally appear under my Templates, but I presume you could overwrite the existing Blank template, wherever it is located).
*Then when creating a new document, use the new template you created.
Jonathan
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4134",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Why do I get a plain blue screen when I connect my Mac Mini to an external monitor? I have one of the new mac mini's and run multiple users on it. At any time up to 5 users may be logged in. I have a keyboard and monitor that I connect to alot of machines so very often the mini has no monitor plugged in. When I connect my monitor - Dell Monitor, VGA to HDMI adapter that came with mini - I get just a plain blue screen. It looks like the blue that you see when the mac is switching users.
I've turned off all the energy saver options thinking that it might be going to sleep and not awaking. Any other ideas as to what might be causing this and how I can prevent it? Every time I connect my monitor I need to reboot to use the mini.
Update: I've tried a couple of more things - I turned off the screen saver also, I tried connecting to the machine using LogMeIn (http://logmein.com) all with similar results. It's as if when a monitor is not attached the mac stops outputting display. It is still running, I just can't get the display to work.
Update - this what I get when I SSH in and do a top command:
Macintosh-5:~ litmus$ top
Processes: 134 total, 2 running, 132 sleeping, 590 threads 10:39:24
Load Avg: 0.48, 0.46, 0.24 CPU usage: 1.87% user, 4.22% sys, 93.89% idle
SharedLibs: 4872K resident, 11M data, 0B linkedit.
MemRegions: 15034 total, 760M resident, 47M private, 228M shared.
PhysMem: 411M wired, 787M active, 382M inactive, 1580M used, 467M free.
VM: 335G vsize, 1042M framework vsize, 41811(0) pageins, 0(0) pageouts.
Networks: packets: 17481/3381K in, 18709/11M out.
Disks: 20134/790M read, 4894/76M written.
PID COMMAND %CPU TIME #TH #WQ #POR #MREG RPRVT RSHRD RSIZE VPRVT
547 top 6.4 00:00.26 1/1 0 24 43 1064K+ 264K 1640K+ 19M
538 SyncServer 0.0 00:00.12 5 3 42 87 1328K+ 5452K- 5988K 16M-
537 PubSubAgent 0.0 00:00.03 4 2 58 65 1528K+ 1412K- 3356K 33M+
521 SyncServer 0.0 00:00.13 3 1 39 83 1268K+ 5440K- 5924K 15M-
520 PubSubAgent 0.0 00:00.04 4 2 55- 65 1532K+ 1400K- 3384K 33M+
513 bash 0.0 00:00.02 1 0 17 24 256K 244K 920K 17M
512 sshd 0.0 00:00.05 1 0 11 68 284K 2492K 728K 584K
506 sshd 0.0 00:00.13 2 1 37 68 492K 2492K 4720K 796K
500 cupsd 0.0 00:00.06 3 1 48 68 1344K 328K 2916K 41M
497- LMIPSUser 0.0 00:00.03 9 0 44 55 452K 248K 1240K 31M
484 CCacheServer 0.0 00:00.00 2 2 35 53 604K+ 320K- 1648K 33M+
483 AppleVNCServ 0.0 00:00.01 4 1 46 56 884K 276K 3708K 31M
478 Litmus Test 0.7 00:01.61 10 3 148 118 47M+ 6116K 51M+ 77M
477- LogMeInGUI 0.0 00:00.09 4 1 84 82 1168K 5544K 3832K 31M
A: Finally figured this out. The issue had to do with the fact that I am using multiple users and Fast User Switching.
You can read more details about it in this thread: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2177922&start=15&tstart=0
The gist is that each user has it's own loginwindow process running. These multiple loginwindow process' reek havoc with any method of remote controlling the mac -VNC, Apple Remote Desktop, LogMeIn even unplugging/plugging in a monitor is affected.
So you need to kill all loginwindow processes before connecting.
To do this:
*
*Connect via ssh
*issue a ps auxwww|grep loginwindow to find the current loginwindow processes that are running - there will be one for each user + one for console
*for each process call sudo kill -9 pid where pid is the process id
* note: you do not need to kill the loginwindow for console
Much thanks to Martin Marconcini who led me down the path of investigating the running processes via SSH.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4138",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How do I change the location of macOS screen captures? As a developer, I take a lot of screen captures. I often take screen shots to share with Stack Exchange members in chat.
The problem is my Desktop is so cluttered with screen captures that they're now overlapping! I'd like to save all screenshots in a dedicated folder or directory.
In macOS, how do I change the default location where screen captures are saved?
These are the screen shots taken with CommandShift3 or CommandShift4 keyboard shortcuts.
I would prefer a solution which doesn't require installing any software.
A: As of macOS 10.14+, you don't need any specific software or scripts. The default screenshot location can be changed in the Screenshot app UI:
*
*Enter Screenshot mode:
*
*Press Command+Shift+5
*Press the Touchbar's Screenshot button
*Go to the floating screenshots options window.
*Select Options > Save to > Other Location...
*Choose a new screenshot location.
Select "Options" here:
Now all screenshots will be stored at the chosen location.
A: According to this page...
defaults write com.apple.screencapture location <path>
Also, to turn on/off shadow:
defaults write com.apple.screencapture disable-shadow -bool true
defaults write com.apple.screencapture disable-shadow -bool false
And to change file type:
defaults write com.apple.screencapture type <format>
You'll want to
killall SystemUIServer
to make the commands take effect.
A: If you use TinkerTool you can change the location that screen capture will saved:
And also you can Add control to the two shortcuts above to place the screen shot on the clipboard instead of saving it to the desktop., and paste it in image Editor like Acorn.
A: I realize this question was asked years ago...
Nonetheless, I arrived here yesterday trying to fix the names (base filenames) of the screencapture PNG files.
Later I found the answer I needed, so I offer it here for future visitors.
If you hate the names looking like:
Screen shot 2011-07-05 at 5.38.53 AM
Then you can fix it in three steps:
First, run:
defaults write com.apple.screencapture name "screenshot"
Or use any word you want as a replacement for the default "Screen shot."
Then (bust out your superuser/sudo privileges and) edit this file:
/System/Library/CoreServices/SystemUIServer.app/Contents/Resources/English.lproj/Localizable.strings
If your computer is not localized to use the "English.lproj", then locate the appropriate lproj in that same Resources folder.
Here is what to edit in Localizable.strings:
/* Format screencapture file names */
/* "%@ %@ at %@" = "%1$@ %2$@ at %3$@"; */
"%@ %@ at %@" = "%1$@_%2$@_%3$@";
Keep the left-hand-side as "%@ %@ at %@" and alter the right-hand-side (after the equals sign) to your liking. In the above snippet, underscores are used where previously whitespace was used.
Lastly, of course:
killall SystemUIServer
I found this info on this webpage, and it works for me on 10.6.
A: Apple's answer:
Where to find screenshots
By default, screenshots save to your desktop with the name ”Screen Shot [date] at [time].png.”
In macOS Mojave or later, you can change the default location of saved screenshots from the Options menu in the Screenshot app. You can also drag the thumbnail to a folder or document.
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201361
A: Use the screen shots from Preview. You can save to any place you like, change the screenshot's name or file type. It is under Previews File menu.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4139",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "23"
} |
Q: Where does Command-Shift-3 or Command-Shift-4 (for taking screen captures) originate from? I know that on Mac OS X, you can take a screen capture of the entire screen with Command+Shift+3 and you can take a screen capture of just a selection (or a window) with Command+Shift+4. Is there a rationale for this keyboard combination? What is the history of that command? Where does Command+Shift number originate from?
A:
What’s an FKEY?
FKEY’s (Function Keys) are resources containing executable code that are called upon by hitting the keys Command-Shift-# (any number 0-9) at the same time. In the standard System file there are two FKEY’s; with an ID#3 and #4 that are used to dump the current screen or window onto disk or printer.1
So far as I can remember/find, screenshot commands were first added to the OS itself in System 6.2
1 Text and image from FKEY that runs other FKEYs! by John Holder (MacTech magazine, 1988)
2 Further reading/references: Mel's Macintosh Universe: Macintosh Plus and a forum posting from 2003, How do I take a screen shot (the latter of which features some guy named Chealion).
A: Dori's answer was correct, but I figured I'd add just a little more history. Early Mac Keyboards did not contact Function Keys (F1 through F12 etc). In place of Function Keys, they allowed the user to type Command+Shift+1 through Command+Shift+9.
Prior to Mac OS X, the system software contained a "Suitcase" called "System". This was the heart of Mac OS classic, and contained the code necessary to boot and run the machine. However this code was not located in the data fork of the file, it was located in the proprietary Mac OS Resource Fork which is set up like a database -- every resource has a type, which is a four byte value, and an ID.
Prior to Mac OS 9, all application code was in resources of type CODE. In the system suitcase, there was a special resource of type FKEY. These were essentially just CODE resources, with the exception that FKEY resources 0 - 9 would be executed when the corresponding Command+Shift+number key was pressed.
If I recall correctly, the Command+Shift+1 FKEY ejected the floppy and the Command+Shift+2 FKEY ejected the floppy in the second drive (external or of a two-floppy Mac (e.g. some SE/30s)). But there were software developers out there who made FKEYs. I remember as a kid having all the open FKEY "slots" filled. One let me draw freehand on the screen (my love for freehand circles started early :-) and one put the Mystery Science Theater 3000 characters at the bottom of my screen.
A: Apple Technical Note OS01, dated "Mar 01 1985", describes the mechanism of command-shift-1 through command-shift-4. Originally, 3 took a screenshot to disk, and 4 sent a screenshot directly to the printer.
They didn't all use FKEY. 1 and 2 were processed by GetNextEvent, but captured by the system. 3 and 4 used the FKEY defined in the System file. 5 through 9 were available for the user, via FKEY. 0 doesn't seem to have been supported.
According to Wikipedia's table of release dates, this technote was written just before System 2.0 was released. They also claim (without reference) that System 2 introduced this shortcut for screenshots. Perhaps Apple wrote the technote prior to the actual release.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: How can I unmount a drive every time I reboot? As relates to an answer to a previous question, I'd like to unmount a built-in hard drive every time I boot up. (Or alternately arrange for it not to be mounted). How do I do this?
A: The following Hint on Mac OS X Hints details a way to do this. Basically you'll create (or modify) the file /etc/fstab and add a line similar to:
UUID=F0E430C1-5558-3BB3-9FA9-6904B663FEEA none hfs rw,noauto
The actual UUID will vary, you can find the UUID for your disk in system.log:
In Mac OS X Panther, Disk Utility and the diskutil command doesn't display the UUID value. But if you look in the system.log file, when the disk is mounted, you can see something similar to this (line breaks added for narrower display):
… localhost diskarbitrationd[87]: disk1s9 hfs
77F3E84D-E0ED-3194-96A5-BED10893FFF4 FireWire HD
/Volumes/FireWire HD
… localhost diskarbitrationd[87]: disk1s10 hfs
F0E430C1-5558-3BB3-9FA9-6904B663FEEA Mac OS X Disc
/Volumes/Mac OS X Disc
The string before the volume name is the UUID for the disk.
A: Use a LaunchAgent (see Lingon) that runs at boot to unmount. If it runs too quickly, add a wait/pause/sleep. The action that unmounts can be in whatever you preferred scripting/automation language is (bash (hdiutil), Automator, AppleScript, etc.)
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: How do I enable the Java console in Firefox? I'm using MacOSX 10.5.8 and the default Java provided by Apple (e.g. /usr/bin/java -> /System/Library/Frameworks/JavaVM.framework/Versions/Current/Commands/java). My web browser is Firefox 3.6.12.
I'd like to view the Java console to debug some Java applets which I access with Firefox.
How can I enable the Java console?
A: This is not done via any Firefox configuration option, but an account wide Java setting:
Open the Java Preferences utility which you can find in Applications -> Utilities.
There, under the Advanced tab, and "Java console", choose "Show console".
| {
"language": "en",
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} |
Q: How do you connect the new MacBook Air to the Cinema Display? The MacBook Air has the magsafe and a USB port on one side of the chassis and the mini display and another USB port on the other side of the chassis. Does the 3-port cable for the Cinema Display work, seeing as how the magsafe and the mini display are on opposite sides instead of all lined up like on the MacBook Pro? If so, is it graceful or ungainly?
A: Yes, it works, but it's not graceful, it's ungainly:
Source: Apple Insider
A: I didn't know myself, but a little google-fu revealed the
answer (hat tip: AppleInsider, scroll down for image on page.)
| {
"language": "en",
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} |
Q: Driving down the road and GPS works on iPod? I was riding in the car today and the as I was traveling home, decided to pull up maps on the iPod. I know that GPS isn't used by iPod and uses wifi to triangulate it's position. However I wasn't connected to any wifi as I was traveling through town and my iPod kept up with my position? How?
A: I'm guessing, since I couldn't find any confirmation, but the iPods use the Skyhook network, which is basically a big database of wifi access points and their approximate location. Since you wouldn't have been connected to a network, (here's the guess) the geolocation service must've cached some amount of the database for your general area.
A: I don't think you have to have a WiFi connection for it to triangulate off of WiFi signals. As long as you have WiFi turned on, the iPod can see the WiFi networks within range. It doesn't have to be connected to any of them.
note: the following is mostly speculation
The iPod has a WiFi receiver in it that's on all the time (unless you purposely turn it off). The receiver is constantly listening for WiFi signals. If you open your Settings and look at WiFi you'll see a list of WiFi access points that are within range. Your iPod might not be connected to any of them but it knows their name (more importantly the unique SSID) and it knows how strong the signal is.
The iPod also stores a database of the locations of known SSIDs. Then it does some fancy calculations. So, if it knows that SSID A's signal is stronger than SSID B's signal it assumes you're closer to A. With enough signals around you, it can make a pretty good approximation of your location.
Even moving quickly, it can sense changes in signal strength as you move and recalculate your position. In a town/city you'll likely have a lot of known signals. Try driving out on a remote highway. You'll likely lose any position information.
| {
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} |
Q: iOS apps take up more space than advertised? I would like to download "RAGE HD" which the App Store says is "643 MB", but after clicking "BUY NOW" there is a message:
There is not enough space to download "RAGE HD". Please delete some photos or videos.
But my "About" screen says I have "898 MB" available. How much extra space should I need to be able to download this game?
A: You have to take into account that the exact number is an approximated value and that the device needs additional space to install the application. I’m guessing that although the application says it’s 643Mb, it really uses some more when it gets installed. You’re really pushing the limits of your iOS there :)
A: Due to the way items are synced to the iPod and iPhone, you need a bit more space than the size of the app. So although the app may only take up 643MB, you'll actually need more to sync it.
A: I don't know the answer to your question in general, but as far as RAGE HD goes (all numbers on my Mac):
Size shown in Finder: 779.7 MB
Size shown in iTunes (Library > Apps): 743.6 MB
Size needed to install on my iPad (Devices > my iPad > Apps): 1.18 GB
I think that's your answer, there ↑
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
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} |
Q: User defined menu shortcut doesn't work with Safari I want to add a shortcut to "refresh" the web page in Safari (5.0.2).
I added a shortcut definition in the System Preferences.
I disabled the usage of the Fonction keys by the System.
I have "F5" shown next to "Reload Page" menu item. But, this does not work.
What went wrong ?
A: As other commenters have said, it works once the menu has been shown at least once. Safari seems to build its menus differently from other apps, and seems to do it dynamically when you open them the first time. Hence, the system has no way to know that such a Refresh menu item exists unless you've tried opening the menu once.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: How to disable all notifications in MS Office 2008, Entourage? The subject says it all, but for further explanation, MS Office has this (what I consider annoying feature) of notifying me of pretty much anything that happens in Entourage—emails, calendar events, and the like. This is similar to the new "My Day" feature but the notifications pop-up in the lower-right corner of the screen.
I use one particular installation for developing scripts and I don't need to notifications. I don't even need Entourage, for that matter, but the install is managed by my IT department, not me. I've looked through everything I can think of to turn off all of the notifications, and the only way I have managed to completely stop them is to zip up the Entourage application. But that results in every other application in the Office suite to state on start up that there is a problem with the Office database (but then they work normally otherwise) and the update application won't allow updates to happen because it can't find the correct installation.
Does anyone know of a way to completely turn off all the little pop-up notifications that Entourage seems to foist on me?
A: If you remove the Microsoft Database daemon from login and do not open Entourage you should receive no notifications.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
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"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Is adding a GPS cradle to the iPod touch worthwhile? I am looking for a GPS that will guide me on hikes and travel from point A to point B without loss of signal in remote areas. I have found this accessory for the iPod touch that enables GPS location services. I am looking for other users EXPERIENCE (not opinions) of this accessory and their personal thoughts on using it or other solutions that I can use my iPod as a location/directional device.
My iPod touch is a 3rd gen, however I feel that this is something that would be desired for all gen's (at least for the 4th as well)
A: No info to report on the cradle you linked to, but several Bluetooth models work fairly well. Apple apps work the best but some third party mapping apps don't use the GPS as well as the onboard one for the iPhone. Others resist installing as the developers require iPhone or iPad with GPS to install.
It would be best to contact the developer of your mapping app of choice and see what they recommend.
http://www.gns-gmbh.com/ - tested that for a day so it worked but I can't recommend it for the field without more time with it.
XGPS 150 - this worked well but I ultimately sold it since I don't want a short days GPS but a whole weekend to a week so I'm back using my garmin that is all in one and takes AA batteries.
| {
"language": "en",
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"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Does the iPhone support the camera connection kit in 4.2? I know that the camera connection kit accessory has so far only worked on the iPad. I assume that this is the case because the iPad was running a special version of iOS 3, but seeing as iOS 4.2 is now in GM for both iPhone and iPad, I'm wondering if Apple has extended support for this accessory to the iPhone as well.
A: You can use the CCK to export photos off an iPhone and import them to the iPad (which isn't new), but no one has yet been able to get the CCK to hook an iPhone up to anything else.
A: They are already working on the iPhone 4 (but only on the iPhone 4, not on previous models) as of iOS 4.0. I guess they are also compatible with the iPod touch 4G.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
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"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: How to stop an iPhone 3G from using cell data, ever? My wife has inherited my iPhone 3G and it's using a few megabytes of GPRS data every month even though she doesn't deliberately use any services that cost mobile data. The problem is that she doesn't have a data plan, so these few MB's cost as much as a few gigabytes would with a data plan.
1: How can I set up the iPhone 3G (OS 3.1.3) so that it absolutely never sends or receives any data except on wifi?
2: Also, what is sending/receiving this GPRS data if it isn't the user? My wife never launches the web browser or other Internet-needing apps.
Please don't simply suggest the obvious get a data plan because my wife doesn't want one. She wants to use the thing as a cell phone and for text messaging, but certainly absolutely positively no Internet or e-mail or whatever, except when she's on our home's wifi.
I thought I had thoroughly turned off mobile data. Here's what I've done so far (written from my memory, might be inaccurate):
Settings > General > Network:
- enable 3G = off
- cellular data = off
- data roaming = off
SBsettings:
- 3G = off
- data = off
- bluetooth = off
- location = off
Based on all this, the damn thing should only use wifi, but somehow it uses GPRS data anyway. Argh!
Solution:
Well, I didn't manage to turn off the mobile data usage despite all your very useful and helpful suggestions. Instead, I spoke with the provider and they offered me 8 months of 1GB-per-months for free, and after that I'm free to cancel it or continue at €7 per month (or whatever the rate will be at that time). They also gave me the money back for the data costs on the last bill. Very good customer service, thank you tele.ring of Austria.
A: That's pretty bizarre. This should have done it:
*
*enable 3G = off
*cellular data = off
*data roaming = off
The only thing I can think of is perhaps visual voicemail? If you have this turned on and it's working then it's using data. Try turning it off. If not, then I'm not really sure what the problem could be, but I suggest calling up your carrier and asking them to block data on their end so that you don't get charged for it.
A: It is possible to have a voice-only no-data iPhone.
Be careful about trying to set this up yourself on the phone. Phones have been known to use data (and get charged) even when all phone options have been set to not use data.
Your best bet is to call the carrier and ask them to disable all data from their end.
A: Changing the APN (if you have access to those settings, AFAIK some carriers block that specific menu) to some random set of chars (fake APN) will disable all data communications. However, everytime you try to access internet, the iPhone will pop up a message saying that you are not subscribed to a cellular data service.
You can also change it to a fake one even if your carrier disallowed access to that setting, by visiting http://www.unlockit.co.nz/ using your iPhone and letting it install the fake settings for you.
A: I can add a few things that bothered me when I did the same.
*
*I had to go to the network settings of the carrier and remove the user/pass for the “EDGE” network. Inserting bogus information prevented the iPhone from connecting at all.
*Voicemail. Here in spain we have visual voicemail (and so do other EU countries as well). I disabled the voicemail too (there is a ## command you can type, ask in your company).
Despite having everything disabled, the phone, notably mail, tried to do things, but after #1, it started failing (giving me an annoying popup that it couldn’t connect). So I went ahead and obliterated Mail settings, and such.
Since then it has been silent. ;)
A: You can switch mobile data off in Settings.
Go to Settings > General > Network and set the Mobile/Cellular Data switch to the 'Off' position
See this Apple Support note for exactly what turning off Cellular Data affects.
A: Actually there's one thing you can do, and that's mess up with carrier settings. APN is the keyword here. Under Settings / General / Network you should have a menu Cellular Data. If you don't (and you probably do not) have it, search for APN on cydia. You should find something there to enable it. Then just clear up all fields in that menu.
Another option would be going to www.iphone-notes.de/mobileconfig or other similar websites on your iphone and install a invalid carrier setting. I'm not sure this would do the trick, but with the proper custom .mobileconfig I'm sure you could.
Good luck! ;)
A: In my country (Australia) we are able to ask the mobile provider to disable data on our accounts to ensure we cannot use any at all, and thus cannot be charged for it unwillingly. It might be worth calling up the provider and asking if they can disable the data service.
A: If your wife hast set up an email account: are the "fetch" settings set to "manual"?
A: Try turning off location services and see if it helps. If I remember correctly, the iPhone 3G has assisted GPS, so it might be using a data connection to help with satellite acquisition.
"Standalone" or "Autonomous" GPS operation use radio signals from satellites alone. A-GPS additionally uses network resources to locate and utilize the satellites faster as well as better in poor signal conditions. [...] An Assisted GPS system can address these problems by using data available from a network.
A: You could call your carrier and tell them to block all data from the SIM card.
A: Put it in Airplane mode! Works for me.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "17"
} |
Q: Spaces makes dialogs disappear I'll be working in a space, and then something starts bouncing in the dock (like Mail), so I switch to that space, and I see a dialog for a split second, but then it disappears. I try moving the main window, to see if the dialog went behind it or something, but it isn't there. While I can move the main window, I cannot interact with it because the dialog is modal. If I switch to a different space then I see the dialog again for just a split second.
Eventually if I switch spaces enough times the dialog will stop disappearing. I haven't found any pattern that works reliably. Another solution is to disable spaces, close the dialog, and then enable spaces and move everything back to the correct windows again.
It is rather annoying. It happens with multiple applications too. I've tried selecting the application by clicking on it in the dock, or switching to the space, and I get the same behavior.
The question is: Is there an easy way to get to the dialog box, or to keep spaces from doing this? Thanks!
A: A bit better of a workaround is to hide the app with the dialog, then showing it again. That typically puts the dialog on top of the z axis, I noticed. Still annoying. The OS-X window manager is the worst PoS I've ever worked with. And just because Steve "believes" in the 1983 Mac window policy...
A: I've reported this bug at the Genius Bar at my local apple store, where I was told it was a known issue, to which they had no good solutions. I wish they would fix it. :(
The best I've come up with so far, and it's risky, is to use apple script to tell the application in question to quit. That causes another modal dialog to pop up, and when I dismiss that one, the one that first came up shows up next. The risk is that the app will just quit. (It might also just ignore it... results seem to vary by application.)
To tell an application to quit via Apple script do this from a terminal window on the same space as the application:
osascript -e "tell Application \"NameHere\" to quit"
| {
"language": "en",
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Q: How can I make VLC output its sound through USB headphones? Whenever I plug-in my earphones with a round connection into my MacBook Pro, the sound automatically switches to them. Whenever I plug my headphones with a USB connection (Logitech USB ClearChat Comfort Headset) and I am playing sound in iTunes, the sound automatically switches. Whenever I plug in my headphones and VLC is playing, the sound continues to play through the speakers. Is there any way to make VLC work with my USB headphones?
Update: It seems that the headphones don't work properly with Skype either.
A: VLC can't switch audio interfaces on-the-fly. You either have to stop playing media entirely, and go into the preferences and change it, then start playing your media again; or, the slightly easier way:
*
*Kill VLC
*Plug in headphones (and ensure they become the primary output sound device, hold option and click the sound icon in your menu bar, select usb headphones if necessary)
*Start VLC
Assuming VLCs preferences are still set to use the Default Audio Device for output, then it'll use them when you start playing content again.
A: Ask and you shall receive...
I logged this as a bug on VLC and they delivered within 2hrs!
https://trac.videolan.org/vlc/ticket/9231
A: Since you're getting iTunes and system sounds through the headset, it should be set as the default audio device, but check the the Sound Preferences pane to make sure. After this, try restarting VLC to get it to use the new default audio device. This should also work for Skype, however Skype should have options in the preferences menu that will let you choose the audio output/input device. Unfortunately there doesn't seem to be any similar option in VLC.
A: Exiting VLC player, and then changing the default Sound Output to Logitech USB Speakers worked for me. So long as the Logitech speakers are plugged in before you open VLC player and System preferences are set correctly then VLC should play through the Speakers.
I know a lot of people use VLC player instead of Quicktime, because some Windows files don't play sound on Quicktime, but work perfectly on VLC player. Although this may have changed since Snow Leopard and the latest version of Quicktime.
Hope this helps.
Toria
A: Hmm, I can switch audio devices in VLC on the fly without problems:
It defaults to the device defined in the system settings on startup.
A: I've just solved the problem like this (without killing the app): I went into the Bluetooth settings (long click on the main icon in the main settings of my smartphone) and saw that "Media audio - Connected to media audio" was checked. I unchecked it, checked again, and yey, the sound is coming from the loudspeaker, finally :) I hope I won't have to do this every time though :/
| {
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"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: Decreasing Image Size with Minimal Quality Loss? I have a few scanned in images of some some pages that I need to digitise. They're each roughly around 5.1MB with 600 DPI, but I can't really afford to have scans so large because I only have around 16GB to last for another 7 months.
I want to decrease the image size but I need to have minimal quality loss of the image. Can this be done?
A: Just use Preview, and select Adjust Size from the Tools menu.
A: Are you referring to the dimensions of the image (ex. 400px x 600px) or the size of the file?
Some image formats use smaller file sizes just because it's in the nature of the format. For example, PSDs tend to be larger then PNGs, etc. I personally use the PNG format for my images, since the images still look nice without being too bulky in size.
A good tool for resizing images or converting them to different types is Image Tool (http://mac-free.com/download/Image-Tool.html) and it's free as well. Hope this helps.
| {
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} |
Q: How do I change the playback speed in iTunes? On the iPhone I can speed up the playback of podcasts to 2x.
Is there a way to do the same in iTunes?
A: There is a Mac menubar app, that allows you to change the playback speed in iTunes. http://wetfish.de/
A: This is not natively possible in the Mac version of iTunes (nor Windows for the matter). You don’t mention if you have OS X or Windows. If you have the former, you have two choices:
1) If the podcast is an MP3 file, you can convert the file to an AAC file in iTunes (with an extension of m4a.) and then change the extension to m4b; the file becomes an audiobook which can be played faster if I am not mistaken.
2) Another alternative is to hear it in Quicktime, which has speed controls: Right click the file in iTunes and choose "Show In Finder”. Option-click the file (right click) and select “Open With…”, select QuickTime. Once in Quicktime option-click the "Accelerate" button to change the playback speed.
A: The way I did it was (windows 7 not sure how it would work on mac) copy and paste the podcast from itunes into my doccuments and then open the podcast in VLC (http://www.videolan.org/vlc/download-windows.html) i assume there is a download for Mac as well. VLC has speed controls and plays every type of file as far as im aware. Under the playback options it has a speed setting.
NB VLC also good for vidoes with out of sync A/V as has sync settings.
A: You can use Winamp or Windows Media Player and the Chronotron plugin to change tempo or pitch.
A: Soundforge nits free and it will change tempo without changing pitch. It works well.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "29"
} |
Q: "not supported on this architecture" error (git) I'm trying to install the Gitx Git client on my friend's mac and it seems to install fine but when I run it I get the following error:
You cannot open the application "GitXStable" because it is not supported on this architecture.
Ideas?
A: Intel application on a PowerPC Mac. Or vice versa. See if you can find an "Universal Binary" version of the application, which will run on either platform.
This link has a Universal Binary version: http://frim.frim.nl/GitXStable.app.zip
A: I recommend you to use this version of GitX. Here is the direct link to download.
Supported architectures are ppc7400, i386, x86_64.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
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} |
Q: How can I disable "Top Sites" in Safari/Webkit completely? First of all, I need to clarify: I do not mean turn off the viewing of top sites in the browser, or the switch for it. I've done that. However, even after the recent 5.0.3 update, Safari constantly pulls webpage previews down and into my ~/Library/Caches/com.apple.Safari/Webpage\ Previews directory. I picked 686 MB out of there just this am, and had to remove write access to that directory to stop it.
Now, running
defaults read -app Safari
Returns:
{
AutoOpenSafeDownloads = 0;
BookmarkSourceSelectedIndex = 0;
BookmarksCollectionsIncludeAddressBook = 0;
BookmarksCollectionsIncludeRendezvous = 0;
BookmarksFlowToListHeightRatio = "-1";
BookmarksMenuIncludesBookmarksToolbar = 0;
BookmarksMenuIncludesRendezvous = 0;
BookmarksSidebarWidth = 194;
BookmarksToolbarProxiesWereConvertedForSafari4 = 1;
CachedBookmarksFileDateNanoseconds = 0;
CachedBookmarksFileDateSeconds = 1289982977;
CachedBookmarksFileSize = 1400;
ConfirmClosingMultiplePages = 0;
ConvertedNewWindowBehaviorForTopSites = 1;
DidPromptToFetchRecentHistoryPreviews = 1;
DownloadsClearingPolicy = 1;
DownloadsPath = "~/Downloads";
DownloadsPathWasConverted = 1;
"ExtensionSettings-com.hoyois.safari.clicktoflash-GY5KR7239Q" = {
H264autoload = false;
H264behavior = "\\"none\\"";
};
HasPendingDefaultSearchProvider = 0;
IncludeDevelopMenu = 1;
InputFieldWidthRatio = 2;
LastDisplayedWelcomePageVersionString = "4.0";
NSNavLastRootDirectory = "~/Documents";
NSPreferencesContentSize = "{668, 282}";
NSPreferencesSelectedIndex = 4;
"NSTableView Columns Activity Viewer Outline" = (
<040b7374 7265616d 74797065 6481e803 84014084 8484084e 53537472 696e6701 8484084e 534f626a 65637400 8584012b 07616464 72657373 86>,
317,
<040b7374 7265616d 74797065 6481e803 84014084 8484084e 53537472 696e6701 8484084e 534f626a 65637400 8584012b 06737461 74757386>,
75,
<040b7374 7265616d 74797065 6481e803 84014084 8484084e 53537472 696e6701 8484084e 534f626a 65637400 8584012b 0473746f 7086>,
18
);
"NSTableView Hidden Columns Activity Viewer Outline" = (
);
"NSTableView Sort Ordering Activity Viewer Outline" = (
);
"NSToolbar Configuration BrowserWindowToolbarIdentifier" = {
"TB Display Mode" = 2;
"TB Icon Size Mode" = 1;
"TB Is Shown" = 1;
"TB Item Identifiers" = (
BackForwardToolbarIdentifier,
InputFieldsToolbarIdentifier
);
"TB Size Mode" = 1;
"TB Visibility Priority Values" = {
BackForwardToolbarIdentifier = (
999
);
InputFieldsToolbarIdentifier = (
1000
);
};
};
"NSToolbar Configuration NSPreferences" = {
"TB Display Mode" = 1;
"TB Icon Size Mode" = 1;
"TB Is Shown" = 0;
"TB Item Identifiers" = (
General,
Appearance,
Bookmarks,
Tabs,
RSS,
AutoFill,
Security,
Extensions,
Advanced
);
"TB Size Mode" = 1;
"TB Visibility Priority Values" = {
};
};
NSUserKeyEquivalents = {
"Select Next Tab" = "@~\\U2192";
"Select Previous Tab" = "@~\\U2190";
};
"NSWindow Frame BrowserWindowFrame" = "20 43 1024 716 0 0 1280 778 ";
"NSWindow Frame Downloads" = "44 224 350 327 0 0 1280 778 ";
"NSWindow Frame NewBookmarksSheet" = "540 502 242 204 0 0 1280 778 ";
"NSWindow Frame Preferences" = "42 100 593 390 0 0 1280 778 ";
"NSWindow Frame WBCookies" = "328 218 625 407 0 0 1280 778 ";
"NSWindow Frame WBDatabases" = "428 288 424 337 0 0 1280 778 ";
NewBookmarksLocationUUID = "E5A9993E-07EA-4AFA-841F-70455377066D";
NewTabBehavior = 1;
OpenWindows = (
BrowserWindowController
);
ProxiesInBookmarksBar = (
);
RSSBookmarksInBarAreSubscribed = 0;
RSSBookmarksInMenuAreSubscribed = 0;
RecentSearchStrings = (
"chromium nightly download",
"webkit based browsers",
"webkit.org",
"Top sites safari"
);
RegisteredSafariSyncClient = 1;
RegisteredSafariSyncClientInSafari31Location = 1;
RemoteConfigurationLastUpdateFailed = 0;
RemoteConfigurationLastUpdateTime = "311383403.200184";
ShowStatusBar = 1;
SuccessfulLaunchTimestamp = "3.119792e+08";
TabCreationPolicy = 2;
TopSitesGridArrangement = 2;
WKNERunState = 2;
WarnAboutFraudulentWebsites = 0;
"WebKit Web Inspector Setting - lastActivePanel" = elements;
WebKitDeveloperExtrasEnabledPreferenceKey = 1;
WebKitRespectStandardStyleKeyEquivalents = 1;
WebKitTabToLinksPreferenceKey = 1;
}
Remember, I removed write access to the directory, in order to be able to paste:
1
0-11-20 12:53:02 PM [0x0-0x39039].com.apple.Safari[483] ImageIO: could not open '/Users/kb/Library/Caches/com.apple.Safari/Webpage Previews/.9F81E709EBF2C27F0422C0C85AE027AC.png-gNmU'
Which are now filling my logfiles.
Now, I disabled access to the web via Little Snitch before with this program, and quite noticeably the constant chatter from my laptop died right down.
How can I turn off Top sites in safari, ie, stop it from downloading all these idiotic, unwanted, performance killing, space using previews?
Mac OS 10.6.5 , Safari 5.0.3, Same issue with WebKit.
EDIT: Just for completeness, I just reset Safari. Behold! All my history appears to be gone, and yet, this site instantly recognized and logged me in! Unacceptable.
This is the exact same behaviour that caused me to do the action I am about to repeat: Blocking all access from the web via the Snitch. How sad. Hopefully someone can help.
A: There was a way to disable TopSites, but I don’t know if it still works:
defaults write com.apple.Safari DebugSnapshotsUpdatePolicy -int 2
to prevent safari from creating the previews (and using a placeholder).
To undo the above, you need:
defaults delete com.apple.Safari DebugSnapshotsUpdatePolicy
Other than that, there is nothing else you can do.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4180",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: Boot MacBook Pro into non OS X operating system from external harddisk I have a MacBook Pro and an external HDD with Ubuntu, I can use this HDD to boot other machines into Ubuntu but no amount of pressing option would make my MacBook Pro think that the drive is bootable.
Is there a setting or an option that I have missed?
A: The problem is that “other machines” (namely PC computers) use BIOS and Macintosh computers use EFI. Rather than boring you with the details, let’s just say that in order for your “EFI” to find your Ubuntu partition, you have to perform some magic.
The instructions for doing that are everywhere, (for example: here). I believe that you need to install rEFIt in order to have an “EFI” compatible bootloader.
TL;DR version: A Mac won’t boot directly into another operating system’s boot (GRUB/LILO/WINLOADER/ETC), you need an “EFI” compatible loader (enter rEFIt).
I hope this points you into the right direction.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4181",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Why does Microsoft Messenger 8.0 crash when I open a new chat window? Microsoft Messenger For Mac 8.0 crashes sometimes when I try to open a new chat window.
Moreover there is no any error logged in Console.
My system is Mac OS X 10.6.5 at a Mac Book Pro.
Find the screenshot showing the problem here:
Any suggestions?
A: It’s a typical BAD_EXEC. This could be related to two main things:
*
*A bug in the program. The Mac programming framework (Called Cocoa) and the programming language used to develop most Mac programs (Objective-C) are very tricky with memory handling. A simple mistake could lead to unpredictable and unexpected crashes that seem to follow no “pattern”. It’s very common, it happens in the best software shops and until the vendor fixes the memory leak, there is nothing you can do (other than send them the bug report and pray).
*If this behavior is exhibited by more software, there might be a problem with your hardware memory (RAM). Faulty RAM sticks are know to have caused this type of errors in a more or less unpredictable way. Programs start crashing and with time, new ‘problems’ arise, until the machine might eventually become almost unusable.
What can you do?
A simple test may be conducted by creating a new blank user in your computer, restarting your computer and using Messenger from the new user. This will rule any possible software problem with your user. If Messenger works fine under the new account, then further analysis of yours will lead us to try to find what’s interfering with MSN.
If it fails to work under the new account too, then the problem lies either in the MSN, Your OS X in general (weird but possible, usually a new user fixes 90% of the problems), or, worst case scenario, in your Hardware.
I suggest you try to above and take an action course. As a last resort, don’t hesitate taking the machine to an Apple Store/Genius Bar for further analysis. They will be able to provide you with much more information that what we could from here.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4184",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: I forgot the passcode for my iPad restrictions. How can I disable them? I added restrictions to my iPad and I forgot the passcode for them, now what? Is there a way to remove it without resetting the device?
A: The short answer is no.
The long answer is wipe the device and then start over. If you have a backup, hopefully it's from before the restrictions were set.
A: There's a tool that can recover the restrictions passcode from a device backup, called pinfinder. Download the tool at the pinfinder github page, make an unencrypted backup and follow the instructions.
A: According to Apple:
If you lose or forget your Restrictions passcode, you'll need to erase
your device and then set it up as a new device to remove the passcode.
Restoring the device won't remove the passcode.
So apparently restoring from a "pre restrictions" backup won't help either.
A: Alternatively one can use Forgot iPhone via iCloud to Erase their phone if the problem is similar to this
This will wipe your entire data and you can setup your iPhone as new.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4185",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "11"
} |
Q: How do I get my books on the iBook store? How do I get my books on the iBook store?
A: There is a portal on iTunes Connect which allows you to publish your books. There is a bit of a writeup about the process here.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4187",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: OS X Package Management I'd like to know if anyone out there has done a comprehensive comparison of the various package manager solutions available for OS X.
More specifically, I'm looking for:
*
*A list of all the major package managers (ie. MacPorts, Fink, etc)
*A pros and cons list or comparison matrix (either self-written or a web link to one)
*Information about any caveats for particular systems
*Information about possible incompatibilities or reasons for not having multiple package managers installed simultaneously
*Subjective reasons why you think one is better than another
Update Nov 29, 2010
Chiggsy gave a great answer but I would really love some more input on this. I've been using MacPorts recently and it seems to be pretty well done. I like that its command line options work in a similar fashion to subversion and that it has an interactive mode.
A: Homebrew
*
*Easy to use
*Always up-to-date
*Easy to extend (Github-based)
A: Good question:
For me, macports is the one.
Why? I'll bypass a lot of stuff and cut right to the chase:
The party is over with regard to malware, trojans and the like. Paging through the last security update, there were some vulns that were from the summer although the cure only came last week. Redownload the developer tools, recompile your macports install, and you have a functioning toolchain that is not dependent on Cupertino, since the Dev Tools from your install disk will serve. Who uses an old version of Openssh? Now it does take some care and feeding, like running port selfupdate every day, and the big tip is to check
port variants
so if you have a python dependency, you can run
port install python +no_tkinter
and avoid the agonizingly long Tk install, which would be most unwelcome on a Quartz architecture anyway.
With this, you can freely run software update and not have your stuff break, since it does not depend on anything but the compiler from apple. I've used it for a long time, and although I tried some others, namely Homebrew, I think that depending on apples versions means inheriting their security flaws. Remember that PDF hole on the iphone? I deploy on Linux anyway, so for me, macports tree is the 'office' and my budding MacOS dev career is 'home'
Just an opinion, but the separate tree for all the code is a big plus for me.
A: The dark horse package manager for OS X is of course:
*
*darwinup
It's seldom used and sparsely documented, but it does ship from Apple and managed packages on OS X/Darwin.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4188",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: What tools allow for creation and editing of a PDF document on OS X? I would like to create a PDF document with images, text and table of contents.
I have also other PDF documents that I would like to merge in this new PDF.
Do you know some tools/software for creating PDFs?
A: You can actually merge multiple PDFs right from Preview.app. Just open two PDFs in two separate windows, turn on the sidebars, and drag pages from one sidebar to the other. This won't provide you with a table of contents, but you can always just make something in TextEdit, export it as a PDF, then add it to the beginning of the document.
A: I use Adobe InDesign for this kind of thing... more flexible than AcrobatPro. Allows total control over what you import into the pdf (text,images, other pdfs, etc.) and the ability to create clickable TOCs. If you are going to do a lot of this, or a lot of print, it is worth the investment.
A: PDFPen and PDFPenPro from Smile Software have many capabilities and are quite affordable.
A: fast free way:
*
*Print each file as PDF:
File->Print->save as PDF
*
*Use this free utility to merge PDF's to one PDF file
http://lifehacker.com/279571/merge-multiple-pdfs-with-combine-pdfs-21
Otherwise use Adobe Pro for Mac
A: Microsoft Word 2011 does a solid job of creating content and saving to PDF.
File > Save As then change Format to PDF.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4192",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: RSS reader for iphone I'm looking for an RSS reader that has push notifications but I can also filter the RSS feed, like there's an RSS feed I need to subscribe to but I only want to be notified about posts that contain a certain word in the title.
A: The suitable named Push Reader app seems to be what I'm looking for, it has push notifications that we filtered by keywords, not exactly sure where the keywords are used to filter (like body or title etc) but as far as I can see it's pretty good.
Edit: it filters by keyword at least in the title. I just got a push notification telling me I have homework ;)
A: There are no RSS readers for iOS which match your feature set yet, however there might be some in the future.
A: you can try Pulse app for iPhone. here is the location http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/pulse-news-mini/id377594176?mt=8
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4195",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Pages for iOS won't let me insert or replace pictures (images) When i click on the "insert stuff" button, the window pops up with the tabs that let me pick pictures, shapes, tables, etc.
If I select a table, shape, or anything but a picture, I can pick a specific one, and it appears in the doc, as it should. But if i pick pictures, I get to pick from my albums, images, etc, but when I select one, nothing happens - the thumbnail gets darker to reflect that I clicked it, but the app just hangs - no image appears in the doc.
The same thing occurs if I use a pre-made template with a pic in it - I can click on the embedded image icon, and get to my images to pick one to select the generic one, but nothing happens when I pick one.
Any ideas? I already tried a reset.
A: Either Pages can't read the type of image file you are trying to use, or there will be a bug fix in later update. Try holding your'e finger over the screen and moving it about, the image might be there just pulling a little trick on you.
A: Another possibility is a corrupted plist file. Quit Pages.
Go to Preferences in your Library folder and delete com.apple.iWork.Pages.plist and relaunch Pages.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4196",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: What's the little plastic clip on the headset good for? On my iPhone headset (the one that came with the device, as well as the in-ear buds) there's a little piece of plastic that slides on the cable to one earbud, and can clip onto the other cable.
*
*It's not large enough to accommodate the headset cable below the split, so it can't be used to somehow hold the cable in place when it's curled up.
*It's not tight enough to stay in place if I slide it nearer the earbud, so it can't be used to essentially move the point where the cable splits closer to the earbuds.
*It's not tight enough to really hold on to the other earbud cable. It takes nearly no effort at all to pull the cables apart.
What in the world is it good for?!?
A: It's good for avoiding tangles when you're not using your earbuds, or when you are using them, from preventing you from tearing your earbuds. (When you're jogging or whatever.) That extra clip is the first thing to give when you pull them apart. If that wasn't there, the next thing to pull would be the splitter. Then you'd have half a pair of earbuds.
A: The usages you described are the correct ones. The Headphones ones are really lame, but it does its job on the Macbook’s power bricks. I made a pic for you:
I can’t find my iPhone earbuds, but the idea “is more or less the same”.
A: I actually find it very useful to clip around the buttons on my dress shirt. Depending on the amount of slack I want, I can pin it around different buttons.
It creates enough slack in the lines/wires that go to the ears:
*
*reduction in cord noise carrying up into ear-buds
*the mic in the right wire stays away from your body (better pickup and less noise
*if the earbuds fall out of your ear, they don’t drop all the way to the floor
It works perfectly (see yellow arrow in picture):
A: The little clip holds the headphones, if gently, to your head notwithstanding some head movement. It has a more secure feel and holds the microphone closer to your throat for better sound on the other end. I do wish, however, that the clip held the opposing cord more firmly.
A: I have the same question, but I found another use just now, I clip that on the left earpod so it would be easier for me to pick next time…
A: You can use the little clip to hold the end of your earphone, when you wind it up.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4198",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "15"
} |
Q: Is there a way to number list items in reverse order in Pages '09? I want to create an ordered list in Pages '09 with decreasing numbers, like:
4. Most Recent Item, 2010.
3. Another Item, 2009.
2. An Old Item, 2008.
1. Oldest Item, 2007.
But it looks like there is no option to do this, but prefix items with numbers manually myself.
Does anyone know how to do this automatically with Pages '09?
A: Nope, you can only tell Pages to start at a number, and it will add +1 to that number. Pages ’09 doesn’t have the option to perform a reverse numbered list.
However, a “workaround” exists by using an old school table.
*
*Click on the table icon on the toolbar to create a table.
*Resize the table to your preferred size (Inspector > Table > Table: for better control on the cell’s size).
*You will need two columns, the first column will be for the “numbers” and the second one will be the item itself.
*Type the highest number in the 1st column/first row and the next number in the first column, second row. (see image)
*Drag the little white dot downwards and the sequence will be automatically completed.
*Modify the table properties in the inspector to remove the borders.
*Silently grin because nobody will know this is a table… you can make evil sounds too.
If you need more rows later, you can add them, modify the first two items in the “sequence” and re-drag to regenerate the new sequence, for the same price.
Additional Info
This “automcomplete the secuence” magic also works for other datatypes, for example: Letters (try a, b, … drag).
8. Don’t forget to profit!
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4208",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: I wish I could get a new Finder window launched if I double-click the Finder icon in the dock. Is this possible? I wish I could get a new Finder window launched if I double-click the Finder icon in the dock. I'm not sure if this would be possible with an Automator script, or if I would have to try to program some type menubar software or something. Any ideas?
thanks!!
A: Hyperdock will let you do something similar. It doesn't seem to support double clicking, but I have my system set up so a middle-click on the finder icon opens a new window.
It's also an awesome dock enhancement, and brings the dock much closer to the usability of the windows taskbar (i.e. you can switch to a specific other window without having to use expose or alt-tab).
A: The following AppleScript does what you want:
on run
tell application "Finder"
make new Finder window
activate
end tell
end run
Open Script Editor in the /Applications/AppleScript folder, and paste the above in to a new script. Save it somewhere as a "File Format: Application" with "Stay Open" not checked.
Then drag that application to your Dock. When you click it, the Finder will be brought to the front and with a new finder window.
The disadvantage is, this takes about 1.5 - 2 seconds to run on my machine. I could probably tweak it by making the script stay open and watch for being brought to the front... You might also get better performance by saving it as a normal script in your "Scripts" folder and putting it in the scripts menu.
A: All you're trying to do is open a new Finder window, yes?
Why not just right-click on the Finder icon in the Dock and choose "New Finder Window"?
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4210",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: Looking for a good iPhone photo viewer I'm looking for a photo viewer that would sync with multiple (sub)folders on my computer HD (some of which are not in my MyPhoto folder), and would have a feature to do a slideshow on the iPhone.
A: Have you considered Dropbox?
It allows for any folder structure you like, and has a decent photo viewing and slideshow capability. And it's free up to a certain size, although depending on the size of your library, you might need to pay.
It's great at a Ton of other things, too.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4211",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Possible to Hide Mac Partition When in Windows? I've found out that if I install Windows 7 and use the Snow Leopard Boot Camp drivers (Which I need for the graphics chipset drivers.), the Mac partition appears and is read-only. I'm quite concerned about this, because if my Windows partition is infected with malware, it could be a possibility that the hackers could take data from my Mac partition, even if it was read-only.
Is there any way to turn off Mac partition support while booted in Windows?
A: I'm not a windows guy, so the steps are probably different but this SuperUser question asks how to disable a partition under Windows XP. The steps may be similar under Windows 7:
You could remove the drive letter
assignment for the specific
partition(s):
*
*Go to Control Panel > Administrative Tools > Computer
Management
*Expand Computer Management (Local) > Storage > Disk Management
*Right click the specific partition you like to hide and select "Change
Drive Letter and Paths"
*Select the drive letter shown, click "Remove" and click "OK"
A: From a theoretical standpoint, even if you delete the Boot Camp drivers and/or remove the drive letter, a virus could still interface with the disk at very low level and read your data. From a practical standpoint, this is unlikely to happen as there is much more low-hanging fruit for hackers.
Still, if you want to run Windows on your Mac without the possibility, even theoretical, of the compromised Windows system being able to access your Mac data, you have essentially two options:
*
*Run Windows in a VM and only allow it access to its virtual disk
*Turn FileVault on for your user account
For the latter option the theoretical virus could still access your applications and general system settings, but it would not be able to access any user data without the FileVault password.
A: Remove the following keys from the Windows Registry (backup first) to disable the Apple HFS driver:
Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\AppleHFS]
"Type"=dword:00000002
"ErrorControl"=dword:00000001
"Start"=dword:00000000
"Group"="File System"
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\AppleMNT]
"Type"=dword:00000002
"ErrorControl"=dword:00000001
"Start"=dword:00000000
"Group"="File System"
You can use the same registry fragment above to restore HFS functionality if you forgot to backup your registry before making any changes.
A: I’m sure someone with more Windows experience will provide a better alternative here, because if that is possible, it’s only possible through a Windows setting/hack/etc. I’m sure you can find the HFS+ driver and uninstall it from windows… but I don’t use bootcamp. :(
A: In Windows, you can go into Disk Management and choose "Change Drive Letter and Paths..." and then Remove the existing drive letter. Then it won't show up in My Computer etc.
A: I hid my mac partition (macbppkpro) in windows this way:
*
*Boot in Mac
*Open SystemPreferences(Apple Icon on Topleft Corner)
*Go to "Security and Privacy"
*Click on "FileVault" tab
*Click on the Lock Icon - "Bottom left corner"
*Supply your credentials
*"Turn on FileVault" button enables - now click on it to encrypt your mac drive. this might take approximately two hours depending on the size of partition. Once the encryption in done restart and boot in windows. You will not see the Mac partition. its not detectable. Mac partition can only be seen when you boot in OS X
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4215",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: How can I convert a Word (.doc or .docx) file to a PDF on an iPad? I would have thought this was one of Goodreader's many tricks, but it doesn't seem to be the case.
A: If you have network access you could send it to Google Docs (upload, email, whatever) and then fetch the PDF from there.
A: You could open it in pages and then export to .pdf.
Source: Experience and Apple Website
A: I went through this same hassle and it prompted me to write a tutorial on it. A summary:
*
*Preview the attachment in the Mail app.
*Open the attachment from Mail into GoodReader.
*Connect GoodReader to Google Docs.
*Upload your doc from GoodReader to Google Docs.
*Open up the Google Docs site in Safari.
*Open your Word file in Safari in Google Docs.
*Switch to the desktop version of the Google Docs site.
*Download the file as a PDF.
A: Simple, local, free solution on the device - no online cloud services required
The solution is to open the file in the App Microsoft Word available in the Apple Appstore.
Then in the MS Word iOS App, when the document is opened, goto "Print" - "in another App" and Word will convert the docx document to a pdf and open it in another app. (This seems to work even with the free readonly version of MS Word)
A: Get Notability - connect to Google Docs, it will convert on opening the file into a PDF all on your ipad, no need for a desktop.
A: Tried the notability way. It worked. Thanks Anthony.
The steps I followed on iPad-
*
*Download Notability (I already had it for work reasons. It costs $2.99)
*Sync Notability to Google Drive
*Open Word Document from email in Notability. It auto-converted the document to Pdf.
*Email the document back from Notability to Email as Pdf.
Additional steps I followed since I needed to sign and date the document-
*Open the document from email in GoodReader (Already had it for work
reasons. Costs $4.99)
*Sign and date the document in GoodReader and email to the recipient.
A: Probably the easiest way to convert a Word Document to a PDF is to use Word Online, part of the free Office Online suite from Microsoft.
Once your .doc or .docx file is open, you just select "Download as PDF" and you have your PDF file.
This solution requires no 3rd party apps and does everything within the browser for free.
A: If you have a .docs on a computer, upload to google drive, open it on iPad, download the file and follow the steps below on "If you are accessing a online .docs"
If you are accessing a online .docs
*
*Open the file online on iPad
*Hit share button on upper-right
*Find print
*After the print window pops up, pinch out (Like zoom out a map) on the preview
*You will have a file now that is still named "SOMETHING.docs" but once you hit the share icon again and import it to another app, you will have a PDF file
If you are using the word app
Open the document, hit the "document with 3 dots" icon on the upper left, hit print, follow step 4 and beyond above.
A: Easiest way that I've found if you're using the Microsoft Office App for iPad.
1) File
2) Print
3) Open in Another App
4) Import to iBooks
It will automatically save as a PDF file in iBooks. From there you can choose to print or email the PDF. You can also connect iBooks to your iCloud Drive and have it saved there as well.
Hope this helps! =]
A: IPAD - How to change a .DOCX file into a word or PDF format so you can read it as if it were in WORD. First from the email you receive it from , Open the Doc., download it into "drive" that's the Icon that is shaped like a triangle, (the YELLOW , GREEN , BLUE icon). called "DRIVE" that's it! It will automatically download it as a .pdf so you edit it, move it, and view it better. From "Drive" you can Down load your now .pdf file into Word, Adobe etc. and rename it.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4219",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: When will Endnote X4 for Mac be compatible with Word for Mac 2011? In the meantime, how can one manage?
A: According to their website:
EndNote X4 is not compatible with Word 2011. The compatibility of Word 2011 with EndNote X4 will be addressed in a free update. Please register your software to be informed when EndNote X4 is compatible with Word 2011.
On their message board, this message says:
The schedule has changed since then so I cannot provide a firm ETA, other than we're now targeting the first quarter of 2011.
From the later comments in that thread (and other threads in their forum), there appear to be a lot of unhappy customers.
Your other options appear to be:
*
*Use X4 with MS Word 2008 (and thankfully, you can run 2008 and 2011 apps at the same time)
*Use X4 with Pages '09
*Use X3 with MS Word 2011
*Apply to beta test the Word 2011 version of X4
*Don't use Endnote; instead just use Word 2011's built-in tools
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4221",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Constrain Columns of Files in Finder to only 3? I like how in Finder, they only have 3 columns of files before the files wrap to a new row. However, when I lend out my USB to some friends, they don't have "Snap to Grid" enabled, which causes them to "add" in the 4th column, which messes up the view of the USB. Every time this happens, I have to manually drag everything back. This is quite time consuming and fine if I only have to do this once. However, I lend out my USB multiple times every week. It's quite a headache.
Is there a way to force Finder to constrain the columns of files to only 3 columns?
A: The setting your refer to, is stored in a hidden Finder file called .DS_STORE
This file is obviously overwritten by your friend’s Mac who obviously uses different settings.
As far as I know, there’s no way (other than perhaps making the file .DS_STORE read only in the USB so your friend’s Mac cannot write the “new annoying settings” to it).
You’ll need to jump into the Terminal (/Applications/Utilities/Terminal.app)
Connect your USB Drive, open Terminal.
In Terminal, type:
cd /Volumes
ls
You should see your own Macintosh HD (or whatever name your internal drive(s) have) and the USB drive (with the name it might have).
Cd into the USB drive like:
cd MyUSBDrive
if the drive has spaces in its name, you must enclose it between quotes
For example:
cd “My Strange USB”
Once in there, you can perform an ‘ls’ to view the contents of the USB. Do that to make sure it’s the right one. Else go back to cd /Volumes and start over :)
Now adjust the settings in the finder the way you want them.
Done?
Now to change the permissions in the USB drive:
sudo chmod 444 .DS_Store
NOTE: The above command might ask you for your password, that is ok. The password won’t be seen when you type it. Just type your password and press enter. Remember the commands in Terminal are case sensitive.
What does that do?: chmod is a command that changes the permissions of files and/or directories. In this case, since the file is a hidden file from the finder, we have to do the job from the terminal (which can always see hidden things). The numbers (444) are read only for everybody.
If you don’t know what chmod does or how it works (or why 444) I recommend you take a look at the help (man page) for the command. In Terminal type:
man chmod
Will this work?
To be honest, I don’t know. I believe it will, but I’m not sure if ACLs are preserved in USB devices. If the USB is formatted with FAT32 (they usually are so Windows can read/write) the above might not work.
Other than that, there’s no magical way to tell finder do this, and do it this way. Because if there’s a .DS_Store file, Finder will read settings from there.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4223",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Why 3G Consume More Battery than Wifi? From what I can recall, both 3G and Wifi should consume about the same about of battery when in operation. However, my field testing seems to indicate that 3G is more battery consuming than Wifi.
Is this result general? If yes, why this is so?
A: First of all, all wireless systems use the most power when transmitting, ie actively powering the antenna to upload data.
Now, just think of the ranges the different systems have to bridge. WiFi works well for like 30 meters, or 100 meters outdoors. Usually, the nearest cell tower is considerably farther away than those 100 meters, therefore, 3G needs more power than WiFi.
Add to this that 3G is capable of opening multiple connections at once, and the fact that 3G autmatically boosts power output on weak signals, 3G needs more power.
A: RotHorseKid is mostly right, however it's not quite as simple as distance — the operating frequency and bandwidth also affect the power usage.
The wikipedia page on dBm provides some approximate power levels for various transmitters, including:
*
*Maximum output from a UMTS/3G mobile phone as anywhere from 125 mW to 2 W (for various power classes — I'm not sure where the iPhone 4 fits, nor any of the iPhones)
*Typical laptop wifi transmission power of 32 mW (and I'm fairly sure the iPhones are below most laptops) with a maximum allowable power of 200 mW
*Bluetooth output is 1.3 mW, 2.5 mW or 100 mW depending on range (1m, 10m 100m)
Now it's not quite that simple, since the transmitters won't be 100% efficient, and there's associated electronics required for the communications to work (on top of the EM transmissions). Such electronics tend to use more power when they run at higher frequencies, and higher potential bandwidth will require a higher frequency (i.e. the supporting electronics of wifi probably uses more power than the supporting electronics of 3G, which in turn probably uses more power than the supporting electronics of Bluetooth).
At a guess, I'd say the supporting electronics would use between 10-100 mW (perhaps someone knows the actual comms chips and can provide specs?), so depending on the power class of the iPhone, it'd be comparable, but I'd still expect 3G to use significantly more power than wifi (and, anecdotally, my iPhone gets hotter when using 3G compared to wifi, which backs this up too).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4224",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: How can I change the VoiceOver language for a song on my 6th gen iPod Nano? Is it possible to change language used for reading song album/artist/title for certain songs? I.e. when I use slovak as default iPod nano language, but I have songs with english titles, I would like to hear those in english. I think this was available for previous iPod nanos, but I cannot find it in iTunes when syncing songs to 6th gen nano.
Update: This is how Options panel looks when I right-click on song stored on my iPod Nano (6th gen):
VoiceOver language is not there :-(
A: Right click on the song (you can select more than one), select "Get Info", choose the Options tab, and pick English for the voice over language.
If you don't see this in your info panel it means that the VoiceOver Kit is not installed: Follow the instructions on this KB Article to download and install it.
However those instructions do work on the Shuffle and the 5th generation Nano, but I just tried my daugther's 6th generation Nano and the check box is not there. Sorry.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4226",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: What's a reasonable approach for managing apps, associated with one iTunes account, on several iOS devices? I have an iPhone 4, an iPad, and an iPhone 3G repurposed as a "touch" for a little one. The short of it is, there are apps I have on my iPhone 4 that I don't want on my iPad, and some on the old 3G that I don't want on either. What's one to do?
I've tried managing by hand which apps sync on which device, but this information gets lost periodically, which means a huge app dump across the iPad and iPhone 4.
What would seem most effective is, while the "purchased" app pool would be common, each device would have a derived subset of this pool (so they wouldn't have to re-purchase), and so would/could never inadvertently sync apps from another device pool.
I suppose the checkboxing of each app approximates this, but it's very frustrating when this information is lost.
Any help for this? Thanks!
A: You can uncheck "Automatically sync new apps" in iTunes. This will avoid the situation where iPhone apps that you don't want to use on your iPad wind up getting synced over. Other than that, the only current solution is to manually check off each app you want on each device.
A: The real question would seem to be - how does that information get lost? I sync between three devices, an iPhone, iPad, and Touch also - I've not had it lose track of which apps were on which system. How does that happen?
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4227",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Is iOS 4.2 faster than 4.1 (iPod Touch)? I've read that iOS 4.2 is faster on the iPhone 3G -- they're making a big deal out of this.
Is this performance improvement limited to the 3G? I have an iPod Touch 4gen and I'm wondering if I'll see any difference.
There's no features of iOS 4.2 that interest me, so I wouldn't bother with the upgrade, but if it also gave me improved performance, I might.
Thanks!
A: Having used 4.2 GM on my iPhone 4 for a couple of weeks now I personally find it much much better at managing and minimising memory usage (regular checks using iStat). This should translate to better performance on older devices with limited RAM as less RAM to flash swapping will be required.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4229",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: How can I see the system status during boot? I would like to monitor the messages generated when I boot my Mac, similar to what you on a *nix box. Is there key-combo to press/hold that will let me do this?
A: You have to press cmd + v upon startup to see the boot output. Press this right after the chime.
If you want to make that permanent, you should probably do something along the lines of:
sudo nvram boot-args="-v"
To undo the above:
sudo nvram boot-args=
in the Terminal. (/Applications/Utilities/Terminal.app)
note: I haven’t tested the above commands, but I’m sure a google query will help you there if you want to make it permanent.
A: If you want to see the boot messages after the boot occurred, log in and run sudo dmesg in Terminal.app.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4232",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: Mail.app doesn't delete the draft email after I have sent it I use Mail.app to access my Gmail account and it doesn't delete the draft email - which is created automatically - after I have sent it. How do I correct this?
A: See point #18 on this TidBITS article on making Mail.app and Gmail IMAP co-exist happily -- hopefully it will help?
(I have not yet taken all the recommendations they give, but the longer I go on using both, the more I turn back to this to help file off the rough edges.)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4233",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Does upgrading iOS change my IMEI? Does upgrading iOS change my IMEI? I was told not by AT&T not to remove my SIM card or certain restrictions that they had placed on the iPhone, at my request, would be lifted. I want to know if upgrading my iOS is like removing the SIM card. I think this was because the IMEI number changes when the SIM card is removed from the phone.
Does upgrading iOS change this number?
A: The IMEI is kind of like a MAC address for the cellular network only. It is nearly impossible to change it, you can only spoof it on a software level. So the answer is, No, your IMEI will never change unless you really really want it to. Removing the SIM card shouldn't change the IMEI either...
A: The IMEI shouldn’t change when you upgrade the phone, at least here in Europe. Mine is still the same.
Update: Upon some reading around, it turns out that if you “hack” your phone, (maybe in the past), an update would change some IMEIs, and AT&T would therefore invalidate the SIM. Be careful with what you do :)
A: No, upgrading the OS doesnt change the IMEI by default, there are hacks available to do it, but its illegal and hence, not recommended.
A: No. Upgrading iOS won't change the IMEI of your iPhone.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4238",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Does iOS 4.2 improve performance on the iPhone 3G? I've "inherited" an iPhone 3G from a friend who upgraded to iPhone 4. He had complined about the slowness of iOS 4. Although I personally have no problems with it, I was wondering if iOS 4.2 offers any noticeable performance improvement. Does iOS 4.2 improve performance on the iPhone 3G?
A: From the iLounge article
Thus far iOS 4.2 appears to perform as
well as iOS 4.1 did under similar
conditions. Performance even on older
devices such as the iPhone 3G is the
same as iOS 4.1 and thus far we
haven’t observed any significant
changes in battery life.
A: It actually seems faster than 4.1 to me on my 3G.
A: My iPhone 3G has become slower in some occasions with iOS 4.2 especially when pasting an address from Mail to Maps.
A: I have an iPhone 3G that I use for testing. 4.2.1 seems insanely slow on it, but maybe that's just because I've gotten so used to the speed of the 3GS and iPhone 4 over the past two years and forget what the "normal" speed of a 3G should feel like.
A: IOS4.2.1 is better than 4.1 for sure!!! I did not use yet the 3gs nor the iphone4, and got through every iOS "upgrade" available starting 3.1.3 , 4.0 , 4.0.1, 4.1 and probably yhe last one for the 3G 4.2.1 ! almost as fast as the 3.1.3 ,and with all the advantages of the 4.x ( folders, ibooks, faster maps, faster jawa, geo-tagging new caracters for notes, easier copy paste ((i think...)), etc. deffinatley a good option to upgrade! you will not be sorry!!!
A: My wife's 3GS which has 3.1.3 runs much faster than my 3GS with 4.3.5(BL1). However I cannot backup her unit in newly purchased MacBook Pro with Lion, but I can backup mine. I see it as Apple's way to force us to upgrade to their latest iOS even if that means to sacrifice performance. I don't like that at all, therefore I chose to backup 3.1.3 to a WinXP machine.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4239",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Concisely starting Mac OS apps from the command line I do a fair amount of work in the command line, and I find myself defining a lot of aliases of the form:
alias skim='/Applications/Skim.app/Contents/MacOS/Skim'
Is there a way to add magic such that asking for executable "foo" automatically uses executable /Applications/Foo.app/Contents/MacOS/Foo? This is on OS X 10.6.
(I'm aware that I could do open foo.pdf, but Skim is not the default PDF reader, and I'd like a general solution - in some cases, it's not appropriate to set the application in question as the default handler for the file.)
A: You don't need anything fancy, you already have the answer. Try:
open /Applications/Foo.app bar.pdf
on edit
In light of the comments below, I think my answer would still be relatively similar... I would make a function that overrides open, does a pushd to /Applications, calls /usr/bin/open $appName.app $args, does a popd and returns.
I suck at shell scripting but something like below which covers special cases and keeps you using pretty much the same syntax as apple provided for open. I like to keep my environment as clean as possible.
I'm sure the syntax is from outer space:
function open($appName, $args)
{
#if we are calling open without a path like /Applications/TextEdit.app AND
# $appName ends in '.app'
if (!hasParent($appName) && isApp($appName))
{
pushd /Applications
/usr/bin/open ${appName}.app $args &
popd
return
}
#otherwise, use open as normal
/usr/bin/open $appName $args
return
}
on second edit
looking @mankoff's comment on the original question, most of the stuff in the above function would probably be a waste of time since you could just use open -a $appName. So mankoff probably has the easiest solution and should change his comment to an answer ;)
A: There are two solutions that I can think of:
The easier way - Using the Info.plist file in each .app Contents directory, create an index of the value for the keys CFBundleExecutable. Then add a short alias that calls a script (perl, python, whatever) with the name of an executable and the arguments you'd like to pass.
Your index would be pairs of executable names and paths to those executables. You'd have to write a recurring scheduled script to keep this updated.
You'd end up being able to call:
f foo file.txt
where f is an alias to a script that checks your index for an executable named foo.
All in all, not a lot of work to get the functionality you'd like.
The harder way - Extend your shell to supplement the handling of its command_not_found error. Essentially you would implement a Ruby style method_missing functionality within whatever shell you're using. When command_not_found was thrown, your method would check the executable names of your installed Applications.
A: Applescript to the rescue:
osascript -e 'tell application "iTunes"' -e "activate" -e 'end tell'
Replace the name of the application with the application you want to start and you're done. You can of course make it a shell function if needed:
function f() {
osascript <<EOF
tell application "$1"
activate
end tell
EOF
}
and use it that way:
f iTunes
I hate applescript, but it is useful sometimes, and I believe the only way to address an application simply by name on the command line. Everything else will require a full path.
A: Finally I got it:
Add this to your .bash_profile
function foomagick() {
rm -f ~/.foomagick.tmp
ls /Applications/ | grep "\.app" | grep -v iWork | while read APP; do
# clean it up
a=`echo $APP | sed s/\ //g`;
a=`echo $a | sed s/\'//g`;
echo alias ${a%.*}="'open -a \"${APP%.*}\"'" >> ~/.foomagick.tmp
done
source ~/.foomagick.tmp
rm ~/.foomagick.tmp
}
foomagick()
Now the following work:
Skim # open Skim.app
Skim foo.pdf
FireFox http://google.com
FireFox google.com # ERROR. Looks for local file.
Edit by Reid:
I implemented the above as a Python script that makes wrapper scripts instead of aliases. You will need to put ~/bin/mankoffmagic in your path. If you want the wrappers to be updated automatically, run it regularly from cron or somesuch.
#!/usr/bin/python
#
# This script automagically updates a set of wrapper shell scripts in
# ~/bin/mankoffmagic which call Mac apps installed in /Applications.
#
# Inspired by mankoff's shell alias posted on apple.stackexchange.com; see:
# http://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4240/concisely-starting-mac-os-apps-from-the-command-line/4257#4257
#
# Notes/Bugs:
#
# 1. Does not follow symlinks (aliases?)
#
# 2. Assumes that application names do not contain double-quotes.
#
# 3. Not very smart about finding the actual binary (it guesses). This is
# wrong sometimes, e.g. Firefox. Probably a deeper understanding of the app
# package structure would fix this.
import copy
import glob
import os
import os.path
import re
BINDIR = os.path.expandvars("$HOME/bin/mankoffmagic")
APP_RE = re.compile(r'(.*)\.app$')
STRIP_RE = re.compile(r'[\W_]+')
def main():
# We aggressively delete everything already in BINDIR, to save the trouble
# of analyzing what should stay
for f in glob.glob("%s/*" % BINDIR):
os.unlink(f)
# Walk /Applications and create a wrapper shell script for each .app dir
for (root, dirs, files) in os.walk("/Applications"):
dirs_real = copy.copy(dirs) # so we can manipulate dirs while looping
for d in dirs_real:
#print "checking %s" % os.path.join(root, d)
m = APP_RE.search(d)
if (m is not None):
#print "Found " + m.group()
dirs.remove(d) # no need to recurse into app
create_script(root, d, m.group(1))
def create_script(path, appdir, appname):
# remove non-alphanumerics and downcase it
wrapper = STRIP_RE.sub('', appname).lower()
wrapper = os.path.join(BINDIR, wrapper)
fp = open(wrapper, "w")
# Twiddle the comments in the script depending on whether you want to
# invoke the binary or use "open" -- the former lets you use any
# command-line args, while the latter is more Mac-like (app puts itself in
# the front, etc.)
fp.write("""
#!/bin/sh
exec "%s/%s/Contents/MacOS/%s" "$@"
#open -a "%s" "$@"
""" % (path, appdir, appname, appname))
fp.close()
os.chmod(wrapper, 0700)
if (__name__ == "__main__"):
main()
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4240",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "24"
} |
Q: whats the volume slider in the multitasking bar for? I have just upgraded to iOS 4.2.1 and I don't have an Apple TV so there's no Airplay button, however I still have a volume slider in the multitasking bar?
What volume does that change, and whats the point of it, I can just use the hardware buttons. (I'd much rather it was a brightness slider like there is on the iPad)
A: The volume changes the volume of the audio on your device, just like the hardware volume buttons do.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4242",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: iOS 4.2 - What's there for the iPhone 3GS? I have looked at iOS 4.2 wrap-ups and all I can see are features for iPad.
Besides AirPrint (which does not work with my printer), is there anything for the iPhone 3GS there?
A: Among other things:
*
*Free “Find my iPhone” (don’t need MobileMe) —> this requires an iPhone 4
*Safari allows you to search inside the page
*You can assign different SMS/MMS/ALERTS to different phonebook contacts
*AirPlay / AirPrint?
*A volume slider control in the Multitaskbar
*New icon for Voice Memos
-
Anything else?
UPDATE: There’s a trick to use the Find my iPhone in a 3GS or similar. I found out that if you create everything from an iPhone 4 (and/or presumably an iPod TOuch latest gen), you can later go to your 3Gs and enter the same data and it will work. :)
A: new Calendar application with among other things, new birthday icon
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4246",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: What devices can I Airplay to? With AirPlay will I be able to stream to iPhone, iPod Touch, and/or iTunes, or is it only to Apple TV and 3rd party speakers?
A: Yes.
Airplay is really a technology platform that allows for streaming media on a local network. It isn't concerned with the type of device that is producing the media or consuming it.
To start with, support may be limited and may not come from Apple. However, certainly that will change with demand. For example:
*
*There is an iOS app called AirPlayer which allows streaming of media to an iPhone/iPod/iPad.
*There is a Mac proof-of-concept app also called AirPlayer which allows streaming of media to a Mac.
A: Looks like Banana TV is a currently shipping Mac app (not just a proof-of-concept) that will play Airplay video or images from your iPhone/iPad.
(TUAW review)
A: Airserver allows you to stream Airplay audio and video from your iOS device to your Mac. Works great.
A: You can Airplay to Windows, Mac, Android, or Amazon Fire using Reflector 2. It claims to support sending rom iOS 9 devices also (but I personally haven't tested the iOS 9 support yet).
Reflector installs an app that acts as an AirPlay and Google Cast receiver. The app is available for Windows, Mac, Android, or Amazon Fire. Since Reflector supports receiving both AirPlay and Google Cast it can receive audio/video from iOS or Android.
It's from Squirrels, the same company that makes the excellent AirParrot app (which allows you send AirPlay audio and video from Windows and Mac to AirPlay and Google Cast).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4247",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: What has changed in iOS 4.2? iOS 4.2 has just been released, and I am wondering what exactly has changed? Can I assume that the changes are different for the iPhone, iPod, and iPad?
A: There were quite a few changes.
The biggest is that this is the first version of iOS 4 for the iPad, which brings multitasking, folders, unified inbox, air print, air play, and more.
This is also the unifying iOS so that the iPad and iPhone and iPod Touch are running the same OS now.
You can find an entire list at http://www.apple.com/ios/
A: Rene Ritchie, from the TiPb, has been posting really nice walkthroughs for each new iOS version, exploring the new features. I recommend them.
I bundled the walkthroughs for iOS 4.2 for iPhone/iPod and iPad here: http://j.mp/exr6un
A: *
*Multitasking on iPad
*Folders on iPad
*AirPrint
*AirPlay
*Find My iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch. (free)
Taken from iOS 4.2 Software Update site.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: iPod Touch (4gen) camera: video same resolution as still camera? I want to take a photo of something (an arm injury!), and I think it'll be hard to hold the camera in just the right place while I hit the touchscreen-shutter. But I could put it in video mode, and then pick out a good frame later.
Does the video taken by the iPod Touch have the same resolution/quality as a still frame captured by its camera?
A: It's a bit crazy, but on the 4th gen iPod touch the video is actually higher resolution than the still pictures:
Cameras, photos, and video
*
*Video recording, HD (720p) up to 30 frames per second with audio; still photos (960 x 720) with back camera
720p video is 1280x720, whereas the photos taken are only 960x720.
| {
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} |
Q: How to make new certificate recognised? We have a large number of Mac Minis that are running a piece of software that we have developed and have been distributed to various clients.
We recently updated our code signing certificate as the old one had expired. However, when we put a new version of the application which is signed with the new certificate on one of these machines, it pops up asking to 'Allow Once', 'Allow Always' etc.
Since we have to remotely update these machines, it is not practical to click 'Allow Always' and type in the password on all these machines. Is there a command line way to make the new certificate recognised so that if a machine is updated with a version containing the new certificate, it will run straight away?
A: Copy the certificate to the client (in DER or PEM format), then run:
sudo security add-trusted-cert -d /path/to/certificate
At least, that works for SSL certificates; I haven't tried it for code signing. You might need to add -p codeSign or something similar. Also, this sets a trust policy for the certificate, but doesn't actually add it to the system keychain. If you want it to appear there as well, you also need to run:
sudo security add-certificate -k /Library/Keychains/System.keychain /path/to/certificate
A: Turned out it wasn't a problem with the certificate after all, it was that the application signature used by parental controls changed when the certificate changed. This was fixed by manually editing the parental controls file to contain the new signature.
| {
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"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Should I Do Anything Extra to Protect IPhone After Going to Beach? My friend told me that the salt in the air on the beach will reduce the lifespan of iPhone.
Is it true? If yes, is there anything I can do to "clean up" the salt in my iPhone?
A: I think your friend is confusing sea shanties with reality. What old mariners call "salt air" is really just the smell of decaying seaweed and dead fish.
Salt, being a solid crystal, can't evaporate, so if there's any "salt in the air" it would be in the form of salt rocks flying around. I imagine that's probably a lot less likely than "sand in the air", since there's typically not a lot of unsequestered salt at the beach. Also, I put salt crystals in glass all the time (e.g., measuring cups), and have yet to see the salt scratch the glass at all, so I think the chances of this hypothetical "salt in the air" causing damage to an iPhone are practically nonexistent.
I would worry more about a seagull pooping on it.
A: Well, you iPhone is pretty well sealed. Unless you dropped the thing in the sand or ocean, you can probably just clean the outside with some safe cleaning product. (i.e. all purpose pledge, works for electronics, just spray onto rag first, then wipe phone).
A: While its true that cars and many other metal objects will rust faster near the ocean, the salt is hardly relevant for your iPhone unless you plan on leaving it exposed on the beach for a few months straight.
The oils/sweat from your hands and the general movements in and out of your bag/pocket/etc will clean up the minute amount of residual salt that might be on it (:
On top of that, I'm pretty sure its well sealed enough that, unless you actually had water spray directly on it or dropped it in the ocean, the insides will be fine and salt free.
Finally, the metal on the outside is stainless steel, which is very resistant to rust...
In short, "she'll be right mate".
(The first gen iPhones did have speaker/mic holes in the case that were perfectly sized to trap sand in the holes and you'd lose volume/clarity, but that's about the only real beach worry I can think of, and not an issue from the 3G onwards with their finer mesh on the speaker/mic).
A: Put the iphone in an unlubed condom. Navy Seals do this for their electronics. Works great.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Why won't my iPod Touch play in Bose SoundDock speakers anymore? I have owned and enjoyed the Bose SoundDock speakers for a number of years; during this time it has worked great with my iPod Mini, Video iPod, and iPod Touch. The speakers have an iPod dock that you seat the iPod in and the audio is played through the speaker.
These speakers predate the iPod Touch by many years and won't recharge the iPod Touch when plugged in. That's fine, I mention it because whenever I plug in the iPod Touch into the speakers the iPod Touch shows a message that recharging isn't supported.
Recently, when I dock my iPod Touch in the speakers the warning that it can't recharge comes up, but no sound is played through the speakers. Instead, the iPod Touch's existing speakers play the music. Plugging in my Video iPod still works as expected - the sound comes out of the Bose speakers.
I've tried undocking and redocking, wiggling it once docked, and so on, but I am unable to get the iPod Touch to play through the Bose speakers. Any idea what's going on here? This is frustrating since I use these speakers quite often...
EDIT: Some further clarifications. My iPod Touch is a 2nd-gen iPod Touch (if that matters). It is, and has for some time, running software version 4.1. I have not tried updating to 4.2 or restoring the iPod's original settings. Also, the speakers continue to work with my iPod Video, so I'm pretty certain the problem lies somewhere with the iPod Touch and not the speakers themselves.
A: Since it’s practically impossible to diagnose a problem like this without physical access to the iPod and the SoundDock, I’m going to give you a few ideas of what I’d try to do:
*
*If you have access to another iPod, try that of course, if that works, we’ve found a problem with your particular iPod.
*If you have access to another SoundDock… well, put your iPod in those and see if the problem lies in your SoundDock.
*Since the last two were two obvious (and you probably thought about them), let me tell you that you can go to an Apple Store with both devices and try the above combinations there. I’m sure that you will find another SoundDock in an Apple Store to try your iPod and that they also have iPods so you can try your Sound Dock. It doesn’t hurt to ask.
*In any case, the remaining obvious alternative is to restore the iPod, either to factory settings (and later using a backup) or to restore a backup (so you don’t lose everything).
*The final idea, is to try 4.2, but that should be the last step. You don’t want 4.2 to introduce new “undiscovered” problems on top of your old problem.
Sadly, there isn’t much else we can do from here. The can’t charge or incompatible device message is “ok” most of the time (I had that problem too with a car adapter), but it worked anyway.
I’m sorry I can’t come up with a better idea.
Just had this same problem... I fixed it by spraying a Contact Cleaner on my Ipod/ITouch.. and it works after... sometimes, Dust or Dirt will cause bad connection between the Unit and the Sound Dock Port *
A: This happened after I got my IPhone 4S. I made my IPhone 3G an IPod Touch and it played fine on the Bose Docking Speaker( I got the same pop up that said it wouldn't support recharging. But then today it just stopped playing Pandora. I just dicovered how to fix it, or at least it worked for me. Unplug the Bose unit from the wall and plug it back in.
Good Luck, mine's working again.
A: It might be useful to update to software version 4.2; that worked for my iPod Touch.
If that doesn't work, or introduces new problems, you can always revert to the old version of software.
My mom also had a similar problem, we tried upgrading the software but it didn't make any difference.
Finally, I looked in the docking point on the iPod Touch (on the bottom, where you dock it) and it was a little coated in dust, I just blew on it and then tried plugging it in again, it worked.
If none of these things worked, try calling the Bose tech support! It's free and I've found them quite helpful.
A: I had the same problem with my iPhone until I took of the protective case, then it seated in the dock just fine and I could play though the speakers.
A: There is a solution.
I have the same problem - my old iPod video charges & plays fine through the SoundDock, but my iPod Touch 4th gen and iPhone 4 both play but do not charge.
I have spoken to Apple and Bose separately, and they both said Bose can replace the docks' connector for an updated one that has a different pin configuration. They said this will allow the dock to play and charge all current Apple iPod/iPhone products. However, It costs £79 to do this. Not cheap, but better than having a redundant item gathering dust.
Just contact Bose directly (number on their website) and have the serial number of the SoundDock to hand, or take your SoundDock to an Apple store and they will sort it out for you (it will still cost £79)
Hope this helps.
Sean.
A: I unplugged the speakers from the wall and tried it again, which seems to have fixed my issue.
A: It's the software. My new iPhone doesn't work on the Bose dock. My old iPhone worked fine with the Bose until I updated the software.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: AirPlay for 3rd Party apps The experience I see thus far for AirPlay with 3rd party apps, on both iPhone and iPad, is that only the audio is output to the AppleTV but not the video. This is great for Pandora but not so good for any video app. Is this a bug with AirPlay or do the developers need to update their apps to support it properly?
A: According to John Gruber, this is not possible, unfortunately:
AirPlay is the killer feature for Apple TV. But perhaps we’d better keep that in the future tense for now: it’s going to be the killer feature for Apple TV. After installing today’s various software updates for iOS devices, the only apps I’ve seen where AirPlay works for video are the built-in iPod app (a.k.a. “Video” on the iPad and iPod Touch) and YouTube. In other apps, AirPlay is audio-only.
A: Word from the future: http://developer.apple.com/library/ios/#releasenotes/General/WhatsNewIniPhoneOS/Articles/iOS4_3.html
You'll note right up top that it's now totally possible for 3rd-party apps to spit video over AirPlay (as of iOS 4.3; been this way for some time now.).
A: Jobs stated in an email it will be available in 2011:
Q: [...] I just purchased
Apple TV and was wondering are you
ever going to make airplay video work
for videos in safari and 3rd party
apps? [...]
A: Yep, hope to add these features to
Airplay in 2011.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
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} |
Q: What are my options for full system (or at least home directory) encryption? I own a MacBook Pro, which is obviously a Laptop, so I want to protect myself in case it ever gets stolen.
On Windows I can use TrueCrypt to do a full system encryption, but would that also be a choice on Mac OS X?
I think that OS X contains a built-in encryption, but when it was released (10.2? 10.3?) I heard it had some really bad flaws that made it unusable.
Is that still the case? What are my options to encrypt either the full drive or at least my home directory?
A: Mac OS X comes with FileVault for encrypting your home directory. There isn't a whole lot of customization for it, but it does its job. There are a few downsides, though:
*
*FileVault does not play well with Time Machine backups. Time Machine can only back up the FileVault encrypted disk image when the user is logged out.
*As FileVault runs it tends to slowly consume disk space. This space is reclaimed at logout, but it can cause problems if your drive is nearly full.
These downsides are the result of FileVault being implemented as an encrypted disk image that is then mounted at login. However, as long as you make sure you regularly log out of your machine they shouldn't present that much of an issue.
It does appear that TrueCrypt is available for Mac OS X, but I've never used it and don't know how well it works.
A: PGP whole-disk encryption supports OS X (10.5 and 10.6, Intel CPUs only), including the boot disk.
A: The new Mac OS Lion supports whole disk encryption with the new Filevault2.
A: According to http://www.truecrypt.org/docs/sys-encryption-supported-os you can't use TrueCrypt to encrypt the OS partition on macs. No idea whether it can encrypt the user directory.
A: truecrypt 7.0a works like a champ on os x 10.6.6. It even works with etoken pro 64k! You can encrypt any container (basically like a disk image). However, I don't see any way to get it to encrypt the user directory.
| {
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} |
Q: After update (to 4.2) iOS says I have 723 songs, but iPod.app says "No Content" I have just updated to 4.2, and the space for my music is still taken according to iTunes, and the device "About" screen says I have 723 songs, but I cannot see it in the iPod app. I assume that another sync is required to activate the content again or something to that effect?
iTunes can see the content on my phone and even allow me to play it. I will attach some images to illustrate the issue. My photo library was updated and seems to work. I have also tried closing all apps, which did not help.
A: I am speculating, that this is what happened: I did the update on another computer (not the one my music is synced to), which invalidated the copy protection of my music library, so when I plugged my phone back into the machine where my music library is stored it did the deed for me. That is what seems to have happened anyway.
A: While Martin's answer is correct to bring back the songs, but here the songs are not lost/ disappeared from iPhone. There is a way to fix this.
After upgrading to 4.2.1, the songs are still there, but by somehow the songs are not shown in iPod.app. All I did is plug-in the headphones and click the middle button to play the songs. And it did worked.
No need to re-sync the songs.
A: To add to your own answer, you will have to re-sync with your library or reset some contents (via the correct iTunes).
A: found the answer with the second suggestion here.
A: Re-start touch (Hold home and off/on buttons) and sync again with iTunes, bingo!
| {
"language": "en",
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} |
Q: I have a 2009 MacBook Air, bought a year ago - will I notice much of a performance improvement if I buy the latest version (Late 2010)? Does the SSD make that much difference? The processor is not much beefier, what are the other factors I should consider/which have an impact? Anyone made the same upgrade and happy with a significant improvement? Or am I just wanting a new shiny thing?
A: The flash storage makes a huge difference (a fresh system boots in about 15 seconds, apps will start instantly etc.), and the new MBA does not need to throttle the CPU when it gets hot. So you will probably notice a big improvement. See Macworlds benchmark results, for example.
| {
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} |
Q: How secure is it to allow Safari to remember passwords on my iPhone? What key does it use to encrypt the stored passwords? If it uses the phone's unlock code, what key does it use for phones that don't have one set up?
If someone had access to the hard drive contents (e.g. by connecting it to a Linux machine), how easy would it be for them to decrypt the saved passwords?
A: Not a direct answer but I too had similar concerns. With IOS 4.2, they have enabled the remote wipe ability for all iphone4 users via MobileME. So at least, if you lose your phone, you can have it wiped out remotely.
A: According to an article on Yahoo News, there are known exploits for Apple's keychain, which would allow an attacker to gain access to passwords stored on the iPhone. I believe that Safari uses keychain to store the username/passwords you tell it to remember.
| {
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"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Is there a Mac OS X Terminal version of the "free" command in Linux systems? On Linux, I often use the free command to see the current amount of free and used memory in the system. For example:
$ free
total used free shared buffers cached
Mem: 7264256 1010952 6253304 0 371892 189088
-/+ buffers/cache: 449972 6814284
Swap: 8126456 28 8126428
It does not seem to exist when I enter free in Mac OS X's Terminal. Is there an alternative?
A: The command you need is vm_stat - similar to the traditional Unix tool vmstat but with a few MACH-specific differences. The man page is well written.
A: free="$(( $(vm_stat | awk '/free/ {gsub(/\./, "", $3); print $3}') * 4096 / 1048576)) MiB free"
A: #!/bin/bash
top -l 1 | grep PhysMem: | awk '{print $10}'
For Unix experts only:
top -l 1 | awk '/PhysMem:/ {print $10}'
A: It seems the reason it's slow is because top -l 1 always delays by one second after completing, the standard delay between refreshes. Adding -s 0 to the command makes it complete instantly:
top -l 1 -s 0 | grep PhysMem
Also, for clarity, I like showing each mem-component on its line, so I added 9 spaces for alignment with 'PhysMem: ' in the sed replacement string:
top -l 1 -s 0 | grep PhysMem | sed 's/, /\n /g'
A: Judging by your other question, I think you've found the use of the Activity Monitor utility to look at your memory status, right? Just for the record, it's in /Applications/Utilities/Activity Monitor.app.
A: You might try the command allmemory if you want a command line tool that reports extremely detailed memory usage.
A: The above is way too much effort for my liking, and it assumes that you have a fully fledged install too... If you've booted from a Mac OS X start up disk, then all the above solutions obviously won't work...
Just use the command "hostinfo", here's the output from my mid 2012 MBAir running Mavericks (10.9.1):
Mach kernel version:
Darwin Kernel Version 13.0.0: Thu Sep 19 22:22:27 PDT 2013; root:xnu-2422.1.72~6/RELEASE_X86_64
Kernel configured for up to 4 processors.
2 processors are physically available.
4 processors are logically available.
Processor type: i486 (Intel 80486)
Processors active: 0 1 2 3
Primary memory available: 8.00 gigabytes
Default processor set: 195 tasks, 961 threads, 4 processors
Load average: 1.61, Mach factor: 2.38
The good this about this command is that it comes preinstalled with the 10.9 installer too under /usr/bin, so it's very handy,
ideally, if you just want RAM then issue:
$ hostinfo | grep memory
Don't know if hostinfo exists on any previous OSes though...
A: Here's a simple one-liner to make the whole vm_stat output more human friendly:
$ vm_stat | perl -ne '/page size of (\d+)/ and $size=$1; /Pages\s+([^:]+)[^\d]+(\d+)/ and printf("%-16s % 16.2f Mi\n", "$1:", $2 * $size / 1048576);'
free: 2330.23 Mi
active: 2948.07 Mi
inactive: 1462.97 Mi
speculative: 599.45 Mi
wired down: 840.46 Mi
copy-on-write: 43684.84 Mi
zero filled: 385865.48 Mi
reactivated: 608.14 Mi
A: top -l 1 -s 0 | awk ' /Processes/ || /PhysMem/ || /Load Avg/{print}'
This should do nicely :)
A: I think these days, psutil and its meminfo.py script provide the most helpful memory-usage details. To try it:
pip install psutil
curl -O https://raw.githubusercontent.com/giampaolo/psutil/master/scripts/meminfo.py
python ./meminfo.py
The output it produces looks like this:
MEMORY
------
Total : 16.0G
Available : 5.5G
Percent : 65.8
Used : 13.5G
Free : 1.5G
Active : 7.4G
Inactive : 4.0G
Wired : 2.1G
SWAP
----
Total : 1.0G
Used : 33.5M
Free : 990.5M
Percent : 3.3
Sin : 15.9G
Sout : 71.6M
Notice the Available row, which shows an estimate of how much memory is actually available for starting new applications, without swapping.
I don’t know of any other MacOS utility providing that available-memory estimate.
For the sake of comparison: On a Linux system, the same sort of information is provided in the available column in output from current versions of free:
total used free shared buff/cache available
Mem: 7.8G 552M 182M 156M 7.1G 6.9G
Swap: 0B 0B 0B
Total: 7.8G 552M 182M
That available column in free output just comes from MemAvailable in /proc/meminfo. And on systems that have /proc/meminfo, psutil also just uses that to estimate available memory.
But MacOS doesn’t have /proc/meminfo, so to estimate the available memory in that case, psutil employs the same algorithm used on Linux to calculate MemAvailable for /proc/meminfo.
A: In case you're only really interested in swap usage (what would be the last line of output from free):
$ sysctl vm.swapusage
vm.swapusage: total = 64.00M used = 0.00M free = 64.00M (encrypted)
A: Bash commands "free like" for Mac OSX.
This is the second reissue of this post. At first, I got two -1. One because I was not describing in English, it is corrected. The other because I used gawk (which is not part of a standard OS X installation), it is also corrected, I now use awk. The -2 are still there ;-). The best is perhaps now to test and evaluate the commands it themselves?
I reviewed my first idea to build only one end-user oriented command with a friendly and highly configurable display, I made two:
*
*free-like.sh a script always oriented "end user", with more accuracy, a "friendly" and configurable display, but with more calculations and resource consumption,
*free-like-raw.sh, a command now oriented developer, sysadmin, etc.., with less computation and resource consumption, but also with less precision, less "friendly" display.
The data for the physical memory are extracted from the results of the command vm_stat (which returns the results in blocksize). The imprecision resulting from the transformation in bytes (number_of_blocks * block_size, the default value of the calculations) will be between 0 < the size of the block.
The data for virtual memory are taken from the top command. The imprecision here is linked to the unit of reference of the top command: kilo, mega, giga.
Calculations are made using awk that respects rounded (as opposed to bc). awk is also quicker than bc.
You can see the test script here: http://myblog.robert.sebille.name/article29.html#awk-bc
You can view the results of the commands in bytes (default), in kilo, mega or giga, with x decimal places in the case of free-like.sh and if you ask the display in mega ou giga.
The scripts are too long for a post, but you can find them on this article of my blog: http://myblog.robert.sebille.name/article29.html
The article is in french, but it display one example of display for each command and their integrated help (./free-like.sh -h and ./free-like-raw.sh -h), in english. These aids completely describe the commands. The article display also the codes.
English is not my mother language. If somebody wants to correct errors in the integrated help, he is welcome ;).
yours.
A: There is a terminal command similar to free on Mac OS X... it is called top
For further information you can check out this Apple Support document.
Mac OS X: How to View Memory Usage With the "top" Utility
A: This runs at my $PS1:
https://github.com/vigo/dotfiles-universal/blob/master/prompts/free_memory
(Ruby version: https://github.com/vigo/dotfiles-universal/blob/master/prompts%2Ffree_memory.rb )
A: If case you use fishshell on osx, along with fisher its package manager.
I wrote the following extension: https://github.com/fisherman/free
It's a complete redo of the free command for osx. See by yourself
> free
total used free appmem wired compressed
Mem: 8.00Gb 6.65Gb 1.95Gb 2.87Gb 2.09Gb 1.86Gb
+/- Cache: 1.24Gb 1.87Gb
Swap(43%): 2048Mb 877Mb 1171Mb
Load Avg: 1.63 1.95 1.95
A: You can try the memory_pressure command.
See the output of my system (i5, 4 GB RAM)
The system has 2147483648 (524288 pages with a page size of 4096).
Stats:
Pages free: 90009
Pages purgeable: 139593
Pages purged: 7496548
Swap I/O:
Swapins: 470466
Swapouts: 530913
Page Q counts:
Pages active: 407739
Pages inactive: 148277
Pages speculative: 16200
Pages throttled: 0
Pages wired down: 263064
Compressor Stats:
Pages used by compressor: 122815
Pages decompressed: 7327420
Pages compressed: 17625795
File I/O:
Pageins: 1538997
Pageouts: 86692
System-wide memory free percentage: 63%
A: There's no exact equivalent that's distributed with Mac OS X, but there are a couple other ways to get the information:
*
*system_profiler - Shows all of the Mac's System Profile info in the shell
*sysctl -a | grep mem or sysctl hw.memsize (total mem)
A: Just taking the solution from @zack and adding inactive and speculative blocks.
#!/bin/bash
FREE_BLOCKS=$(vm_stat | grep free | awk '{ print $3 }' | sed 's/\.//')
INACTIVE_BLOCKS=$(vm_stat | grep inactive | awk '{ print $3 }' | sed 's/\.//')
SPECULATIVE_BLOCKS=$(vm_stat | grep speculative | awk '{ print $3 }' | sed 's/\.//')
FREE=$((($FREE_BLOCKS+SPECULATIVE_BLOCKS)*4096/1048576))
INACTIVE=$(($INACTIVE_BLOCKS*4096/1048576))
TOTAL=$((($FREE+$INACTIVE)))
echo Free: $FREE MB
echo Inactive: $INACTIVE MB
echo Total free: $TOTAL MB
A: As @khedron says, you can see this info in Activity Monitor.
If you want it on the command line, here is a Python script that I wrote (or perhaps modified from someone else's, I can't remember, it's quite old now) to show you the Wired, Active, Inactive and Free memory amounts:
#!/usr/bin/python
import subprocess
import re
# Get process info
ps = subprocess.Popen(['ps', '-caxm', '-orss,comm'], stdout=subprocess.PIPE).communicate()[0].decode()
vm = subprocess.Popen(['vm_stat'], stdout=subprocess.PIPE).communicate()[0].decode()
# Iterate processes
processLines = ps.split('\n')
sep = re.compile('[\s]+')
rssTotal = 0 # kB
for row in range(1,len(processLines)):
rowText = processLines[row].strip()
rowElements = sep.split(rowText)
try:
rss = float(rowElements[0]) * 1024
except:
rss = 0 # ignore...
rssTotal += rss
# Process vm_stat
vmLines = vm.split('\n')
sep = re.compile(':[\s]+')
vmStats = {}
for row in range(1,len(vmLines)-2):
rowText = vmLines[row].strip()
rowElements = sep.split(rowText)
vmStats[(rowElements[0])] = int(rowElements[1].strip('\.')) * 4096
print('Wired Memory:\t\t%d MB' % (vmStats["Pages wired down"]/1024/1024))
print('Active Memory:\t\t%d MB' % (vmStats["Pages active"]/1024/1024))
print('Inactive Memory:\t%d MB' % (vmStats["Pages inactive"]/1024/1024))
print('Free Memory:\t\t%d MB' % (vmStats["Pages free"]/1024/1024))
print('Real Mem Total (ps):\t%.3f MB' % (rssTotal/1024/1024))
As you can see, you can just call vm_stat from the command line, though it counts in 4kB pages, hence the script to convert to MB.
The script also counts up the "real memory" usage of all running processes for comparison (this won't match any specific value(s) from overall memory stats, because memory is a complex beast).
Here's an example of the output of the script on my system:
[user@host:~] % memReport.py
Wired Memory: 1381 MB
Active Memory: 3053 MB
Inactive Memory: 727 MB
Free Memory: 1619 MB
Real Mem Total (ps): 3402.828 MB
(very slightly adjusted to match the tab sizing on StackExchange ;)
A: vm_stat shows you in kilobytes.
The oneliner below shows in megabytes:
paste <(vm_stat | awk 'NR>1' | grep -o ".*:") <(for i in $(vm_stat | awk 'NR>1' | tr -d '.' | awk '{print $NF}'); do perl -e "print $i/1024" | awk '{printf "%0.2f", $0}'; echo; done) | column -s: -t
Returns:
Pages free 11.06
Pages active 798.25
Pages inactive 776.03
Pages speculative 9.15
Pages throttled 0.00
Pages wired down 303.27
Pages purgeable 0.95
"Translation faults" 82172.66
Pages copy-on-write 11629.60
Pages zero filled 27685.41
Pages reactivated 1450.70
Pages purged 91.66
File-backed pages 430.20
Anonymous pages 1153.24
Pages stored in compressor 481.75
Pages occupied by compressor 149.91
Decompressions 1277.92
Compressions 1622.33
Pageins 13198.02
Pageouts 66.61
Swapins 54.34
Swapouts 90.63
A: top or htop can also help to solve the problem .
A: This works with vanilla Mac OS 10.10 - 13.2, on both Intel and ARM Mac's, to get the amount of free memory in Mb, as defined as memory that the OS would page out and allocate to other processes if needed, plus unallocated memory:
page_sz=$(/usr/bin/memory_pressure |awk '/ pages with a page size of / { print $NF+0 }')
free_pages=$(/usr/bin/memory_pressure |awk '/^Pages free:/ { print $NF }')
inactive_pages=$(/usr/bin/memory_pressure |awk '/^Pages inactive:/ { print $NF }')
speculative_pages=$(/usr/bin/memory_pressure |awk '/^Pages speculative:/ { print $NF }')
free_mb=$(( (${free_pages} + ${speculative_pages} + ${inactive_pages}) * ${page_sz} / 1048576 ))
And, as a one-liner:
memory_pressure|awk '/ page size of /{z=$NF+0}/^Pages free:/{f=$NF}/^Pages inactive:/{i=$NF}/^Pages speculative:/{printf "%i\n",(f+i+$NF)*z/1048576}'
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4286",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "244"
} |
Q: PDF Searching/Http Syncing on iPad I have two requirements with handling PDFs on an iPad, but I can't seem to find one app that will solve the problem. I was hoping the iOS 4.2 update would address this, but it doesn't.
Here are my requirements:
*
*I need to be able to search for words in a PDF.
*I need to have this PDF sync to a HTTP url. That is to say, I want my PDF on my iPad to be the exact same (the latest revision) of my PDF on my HTTP server.
The ideal solution would be able to just use Safari and open up the PDF via Safari. However, with Safari, I can't search for text within a PDF.
Any thoughts on how I can solve my problem? Any apps out there that will do this? iBooks or Goodreader don't.
Thanks in advance.
A: DropBox and iAnnotate, and since iAnnotate supports DropBox you really only work with one program as requested.
| {
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: What does it mean if I have lots of "Inactive" memory at the end of a work day? After a day's of work at my MacBook Pro running Mac OS X 10.6.5, Activity Monitor shows that the majority of my computer's 8 GB of memory is "Inactive", and only a tiny sliver of the pie chart is "Free". This is even when I have closed all applications, with only the Finder running.
What does that mean? Is the "Inactive" memory taken up by something? Or is it actually still available for applications to use? Thanks.
A: This is most likely not a problem, and in fact is potentially speeding up your computer.
All (most?) operating systems utilise a Disk Cache, which stores some recently accessed files in memory so that repeated access of those files can be sped up. The disk cache on OS X is variable in size, and will appear as "Inactive Memory" being used.
If any program needs more memory, OS X will clear some of the disk cache (the least recently used files) to allow space for the program to run/expand.
I find that if I do a lot of compiling or photo-sorting (i.e. accessing thousands of files in succession) the disk cache will expand and use a lot of Inactive Memory. Provided its just this disk cache, its nothing to worry about.
If it is a background process or application that is expanding in its memory usage (but its pages are being marked inactive) then you'll be able to tell by checking for any programs with very high "Real Memory" usage in Activity Monitor. If there's nothing obviously large there (i.e. the total is a long way short of 8GB) then it'll be the file cache.
You should see that there's little if any Swap usage, and if you open a memory-intensive program the amount of inactive memory will decrease without having to swap to disk.
(I believe there was a bug in 10.4 or 10.5 for a while where it wouldn't always free up this memory very effectively, and would cause swapping despite having a large disk cache, but in my experience this appears solved in 10.6).
A: "Inactive" memory is available for use by other programs -- it's just caching programs or data that you recently used, in case you need them again. If you launch different programs or need different data, the cached memory will cleared and made available to your new workload as needed.
That's the theory, at any rate, and I believe it to be sound. However, I did find this reference to a "purge" utility someone wrote because they didn't think inactive memory was being released quickly enough.
For official documentation on the subject, read this (and search for "inactive").
A: OS X, like most modern operating systems, uses a virtual memory system for managing memory. Among other purposes, this allows the operating system to treat the computer as having an unlimited pool of memory. To achieve this, the OS will page unused parts of RAM out to a disk store known as the swapfile.
Of course, RAM is not unlimited, so OS X groups RAM into four categories: wired, active, inactive, and free. Wired memory is required by the operating system, and can never be paged out of memory. Active memory is memory used by currently-running programs. Inactive memory was used recently by programs which have now been terminated (or haven't been unused in a long time). Free memory is, as the name suggests, RAM that is not being used.
When you launch a program, it gets loaded into active memory. When you quit a program, however, it doesn't get removed from RAM; rather, it gets bumped into inactive memory. This is why it is often faster to re-launch a program -- it is still in RAM (try this with a big program like Firefox).
Once all your memory is used (free memory is 0), the OS will write out inactive memory to the swapfile to make more room in active memory.
If a program gets paged out to the swapfile, and you re-launch it, it'll get pulled from the swapfile into active memory.
So in short, you actually shouldn't care if your free memory is low. In fact, you want it to be low -- free memory is wasted memory (as the OS isn't using it for anything).
When examining how much memory your computer is using, you actually want to pay attention mostly to Swap used, which tells you the size of the virtual memory swapfile, and Page ins, which tells you how often the OS has to pull memory from the swapfile into active memory.
A: Starting with OS X 10.5 there are evident memory management problems in MAC OS X.
I finally managed to reproduce the problematic scenario, so i run the test and recorded the screen, into video.
MAC OS X Lion performance problem - broken memory management
I run the tar+bzip command, which is basic unix stuff, on the large amount of picture files, in my Pictures/ folder. Just before start, i run the "purge" command, to delete inactive/cached program data.
You can see on the video that free memory starts to drop very fast, and inactive is constantly rising. If you take a look at "bsdtar" command, it takes only a fragment of RAM, so the problem is not in this process. You cannot say that it is a program memory leak, because then the problem would not be in inactive ram, rather in active/wired.
When the free memory dropped below 100mb, i started some apps, like Safari, iPhoto and MS Word, and you can see in the video, that it takes even minutes to start an app, when normally (when there is free RAM), it would take some 3-5 secs to load.
I run the same scenario and the same commands on my Linux Centos 6 box, no problem there ! Memory usage is some 10-20mb, no problems with cache/buffer.
The memory management must be very broken in Mac OS X !
A: This discussion makes sense only if the statement that "your computer will run faster when free memory is low" - were true. Unless my Desktop Mac is wired weird, the minute my free memory (monitored) starts getting low, whatever program I am running at the time starts to bog down to the point where I can't do anything until it moves back up by itself or by my Free Memory intervention. I have an iMac 2118 (2006 or later) that maxes out at 3 GB RAM so I try to manage it when I can but this is very frustrating. Any thoughts?
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4288",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "22"
} |
Q: How do I boot into the EFI firmware shell? I'd like to experiment with the EFI shell on a MacBook Pro 2010 model. I am unable to find the keyboard sequence to hold on boot. Does someone know what the sequence is, do I need to boot from my Snow Leopard CD instead to access this or has the EFI shell been left out (I read that Intel makes it an optional component) ?
Thanks,
Scott
A: Yup, apparently it is missing and you have to install EDK to get it.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4294",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: What is the Steam gaming platform?
*
*What is Steam?
*Why should I buy the game on Steam instead from normal retailer?
*Can a game bought via Steam played independently?
A: What is Steam?
According to them, they are The Ultimate Online Game Platform. What this actually means is that they are a portal for you to buy, play and update games. With certain benefits. But “steam” is just that. They sell games (more on this later), they offer you a community where you can have Friends, Chat with them, unlock achievements, etc. If you’re a user of an iPhone/Pod/Pad that has GameCenter in it, think of Steam as a pseudo GameCenter.
Why Steam and not normal retailer?
The advantages of Steam are a few, and I couldn’t list them all because some things may not be better for everybody, but let’s just say that the strength of the platform and what makes it different from buying a boxed game could be summarized in a few bullets (in no particular order):
*
*Very easy to buy a game (and discover new ones)
*Instant buy, start downloading, no delivery costs.
*Automatic updates without having to worry
*If you buy a game on your Macintosh and one day decide to play it on your Windows computer, provided that the game is supported in that Platform, you can continue your game there, as if nothing has happened. You re-download the game in your Windows machine and voilá.
*Friends, Achivements, Progress… Steam as a platform sports game achievements that you unlock by playing.
*Discounts, sometimes you will get “cheaper” versions of the games or promos that you can take advantage of.
*More, I’m sure there are other advantages but think of an AppStore for games with a plus.
Can games be played independently?
Yes and no. I don’t believe you can copy that game over another machine (tho you could probably install steam on that machine and copy the game… I haven’t tried this). But you can play offline if you don’t have Internet.
Bonus: Is it worth?
If you have a Mac and like gaming, it’s definitely a big plus, as a lot of games get ported and put into the Steam network. If you’re in Windows, I believe the ease of use and “point and click” nature of the service make it worth. And also the fact that you don’t have to pay to use it. Did I mention it’s a free service? ;)
But Does it have Cons?
Some invaluable readers pointed out a few cons, which I will update (and I encourage everybody to contribute):
*
*When you start it, it automatically updates, giving you the sensation that the client is hang. Also if your network speed is not optimal, this process can demand a lot of time.
*If your network connection is not good, downloading three gigabytes of game might not be the best idea, given that you usually can’t start playing until almost most (if not all) the content is downloaded.
*In order to play offline, you have to log in, and tell steam “I’m going offline”, which kind of voids the possibility of an unexpected loss of connectivity or forgetting to do it before disconnecting for example.
*I didn’t mention this, but it’s important to note that not all the Windows games are available on Steam and not all work on OS X. Although decent amount (and growing) catalog is available, not every title is there.
UPDATE: There’s a dedicating gaming community in Stack Exchange for that. Don’t hesitate asking gaming questions there too, those guys may seem like gamers, but they aren’t playing at all ;)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4304",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Relative performance of 2006 Mac Pro and 2007 iMac I'm trying to evaluate a purchase but am having trouble finding apples-to-apples performance comparisons for these two machines. A year and and many details separate them. Are there any common benchmarks that consider disk and graphics performance? Which is preferable for software development (dual-head, but otherwise light on the GPU)?
Mac Pro (2006) [Detailed specs]
*
*Two dual-core Xeon processors at 2.66GHz (1.33GHz bus)
*3GB RAM
*NVIDIA GeForce 7300 GT with 256 MB RAM
iMac (2007) [Detailed specs]
*
*Core 2 Duo (obviously dual-core) at 2.4GHz (800MHz bus)
*3GB RAM
*ATI Radeon 2600 with 256 MB RAM
Both machines have their original hard drives (SATA).
Thanks in advance for your input.
A: Your question is somewhat difficult to answer, because not all is based upon “raw” performance.
I’d say that it would be better if you consider the following differences:
RAM
*
*MP(MacPro): Very easy to add and the limit is probably higher than what you can/Want to afford for the task you want to perform. Adding 8-12GB is probably “cheap”.
*iM(iMac): Probably more limited, tho not harder to change as far as I can remember, but if you need 12 GB you can’t achieve that with that (or any AFAICR) iMac.
HARD DRIVES
*
*MP: Although “external” drives are “ok”, having four internal SATA bays is godsend. Very easy to add/remove drives and to create a simple RAID1 if you wanna have a mirror “just in case”.
*iM: close to impossible (unless you have the right tools, time, patience and dedication) to change the internal drive, which is a “slower” 2.5 drive if I am not mistaken. Some “hacks” exist to replace the superdrive with another drive, but I don’t know if that Model fits.
Video
*
*MP: Tho I don’t know if the NVIDA is better than that particular ATI (tho I believe it is), the expandability of the MP is superior to the zero expandability of the iMac. You could add more cards to your MacPro for more than two displays if that’s what you want. But you have to get your own displays…
*iM: Zero. You can’t change or add another video card. You’re stuck with a very nice 24 inch display and an integrated iSight. The MacPro, will need displays (and webcams). The CONS here is that if you don’t like Glossy Displays… you’re out of luck :)
RAM Speed, Bus Speed, etc
All these things don’t really change your day to day workflow, yes, some Front Side Buses are faster than others, but in the end, the difference is probably not a decision factor. (given similar specs of course).
Connectivity
*
*Both machines have enough USB/FW ports I believe, tho the Mac Pro surely has some more, you will need more ports in the iMac if you use external drives (not that you have much choice there).
So which one do I chose?
The answer is, there’s no answer. You have to evaluate your priorities. I wouldn’t change my Mac Pro (early 2008) for a new iMac, because I already have two 27’’ screens, already have 4 drives in there (with some RAID going on) + an SSD for the OS and I have replaced the stock video card (NVIDIA) with an ATI (because my nVidia Failed and the ATI costed the same as the out of warranty nVIdia). My Mac Pro is going to turn 3 years soon and it works fantastically.
The iMac on the other hand, is a beautiful looking machine that if you use paired with a lot of BlueTooth stuff, makes your desk look very pristine. Sadly, I need storage, redundancy and multi-core for some of the things I do for a living, so the 8 cores of my Mac Pro are needed in my case.
I notice that the MultiCore is godsend sometimes, you see processes hanging there at 100% and the rest of the CPUs and cores take care. But of course, a normal World of Warcraft user wouldn’t even use 5% of all that.
I suggest you visit Anandtech’s Mac section if you want some benchmarks and reviews. It’s usually filled with good impressions and comments and sometimes comparisons. I don’t know if you’ll find an exact comparison between those two models, but you might come up with something similar.
My Personal Opinion
Get the Mac Pro if you’re going to develop and already have screens (or the budget to buy them), because in the future, when you want your time machine, your drive cloned, more space, etc., the Mac Pro is going to be much more helpful than stacking fragile external Firewire/USB drives.
UPDATE ON VIDEO
According to the experts (tegeril), the “ATI 2600 Pro is a substantially superior card to the Nvidia 7300GT”. You’ll have to find some benchmarking for that and of course evaluate if you’re going to need the extra power or the expandability is better.
A: There's a Mac-specific set of benchmarks called Xbench. If you have access to both machines, you can run it on them and see how they stack up.
If not, there's an online database at db.xbench.com, and there are probably other places around you can find Xbench scores.
Here's a couple that are pretty close to yours, though running different versions of Mac OS (not sure how much that matters):
*
*iMac, 2.4GHz, 3GB RAM
*MacPro, 2.66GHz, 3GB RAM
In this particular matchup, it's pretty even. The Xeon wins on threading (not surprising), while the iMac wins on hard disk (surprising, to me) -- though as Martin noted, it's easy to add more or better disks to a MacPro.
The decision probably comes down to form-factor, as much as anything else. Obviously people have been developing software on machines far slower than either of these for decades.
A: Also don't for get to check out Geekbench results. I find their results very valuable in determining overall system performance. FYI EveryMac.com has the average Geekbench results posted for almost every mac that can run the benchmark.
Apple iMac "Core 2 Duo" 2.4 24-Inch (Al) Geekbench result
Apple Mac Pro "Quad Core" 2.66 (Original) Geekbench result
In this case for raw performance the Mac Pro wins this contest hands down, go with the Mac Pro. I actually have the same Mac Pro, and it runs very well and was a very productive upgrade from a MacBook
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4311",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: How do I "copy image address" in iOS? On desktops, when web browsing you typically right click on an image and choose an item from a contextual menu to display/copy the image URL. In iOS, when you tap and hold down an image, an action sheet displays asking if you want to save the image, copy to the clipboard, etc. But what if you just want the URL?
If safari doesn't offer this functionality, is there a 3rd party browser that does? Specifically, one that works on the iPad.
A: Neither iOS Safari nor Opera Mini support this option. However, you can install the 'view source' iOS bookmarklet, as explained here:
*
*http://fettig.net/weblog/2007/07/02/view-source-for-safari-on-iphone/
And use it to look for the image link within the source you are visiting.
This may be cumbersome using older iOS versions, but it is much easier on iOS 4.2, using the 'Find text on webpages' feature which allows you to search for text using Safari's Search field (right of the navigation bar) to look for image extensons like .jpg, .png and .gif.
A: Tap, and hold the image; then choose "copy," open a new browser window, and paste into the address bar.
A: Tap and hold, and the 2nd option will be to open it in a new page. Tap that, and you'll get a new window. Tap the URL bar, and Copy.
A: [Note: this has only been tested on iOS 5.1.1 on iPad]
For a simple image, you can tap-and-hold it and select 'Copy'. This will copy the URL of the image which you can paste wherever you need it.
However, when the image is being used as a link to another URL, this method copies the linked URL only.
A method that always works is to use the Show Images Bookmarklet (from here - a useful resource any time you want a bookmarklet on iOS).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4312",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "9"
} |
Q: How tell Safari to open new tab instead of a window How do I tell Safari to always open links that want a new window in a new tab?
I know I can use cmd-click to do this but that's not what I want.
There has to be a setting somewhere?
A: You can use Safari preferences (⌘ ,) to change this setting, you can use automatically or always for opening pages in new tabs instead of new windows.
A: In safari preferences (command + ,) on the "Tabs" tab you can set this options.
Or you can right click the link and choose the option you want. Or depending on your current configuration command + click on the link could open the link on a new page or a new tab.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4314",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Is there any way to watch Hulu (or Hulu Plus) on the new Apple TV? I was hoping Airplay might do this, but when I turn it on in the Hulu Plus app, it only streams the audio to the ATV.
A: Unfortunately, it seems that AirPlay is audio only for third-party apps for the time being, and there's no other way to get Hulu Plus on the Apple TV.
A: When AirPlay support for Safari is added (supposedly in 2011 - see below), you may be able to do this.
http://www.macrumors.com/2010/11/30/steve-jobs-airplay-video-streaming-coming-to-safari-and-third-party-apps-in-2011/
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4320",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Keyboard rubber spacer broken I bought a wired aluminum keyboard in May this year. Today one of the rubber spacers pressed into the case and I can't get it out. As the keyboard is now extremely loud while typing and not even anymore, I'd like to have it replaced/repaired by Apple. Does anybody have experience with that problem? Is it a pain to get it repaired?
A: I don’t have experience with Apple Keyboard problems specifically, but this seems like a problem which Apple would fix by simply replacing your keyboard. Assuming that the spacer broke during normal usage, and that you are still within the original warranty period for the hardware, it’s far easier for Apple to replace the keyboard than to attempt to repair it.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4322",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Best resources on data recovery from corrupted OS X HFS+ partitions My Macbook Pro won't boot from it's hard disc. If I boot it from CD, the drive will only mount sometimes. Where should I go to get hints and tips on data recovery? What are the best tools that should be in my toolbox?
A: The best free solution I've found is TestDisk. I have no personal experience with it, but I've heard rave reviews.
You can also try Data Rescue 3, a paid solution. I've used an older version in the past with good results. Problem with this sort of solution is that they can only recognize certain formats of files. But there is an extensive list of files that it can recover.
Of course, the best tip I can give you for data recovery is keep regular backups -- especially for laptop computers!
A: I've had good experiences with DiskWarrior, both for file structure repair and data recovery.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/4326",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
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