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Q: Should I use the adapter or the battery? I want to know when my MBP's battery was fully charged it's better to unplug my adapter and use my battery power or still let use adapter power?
I somewhere read that when MBP's battery was fully charged it's just use adapter for power and don't use battery, if it's true it didn't hurt adapter and reduce it's lifetime?
I have Macbook Pro 13" dual core(2.53)
A: Read what Apple has to say about notebook batteries:
*
*Apple’s Batteries Page
*Apple’s Notebook Batteries Page
EDIT for the lazy(es) who don’t want to read the links:
*
*lithium-ion batteries need to be fully discharged and recharged at least once a month. Go ahead and create an iCal reminder…
*Leaving it plugged won’t affect it, as long as you remember to do (1) every 30 days.
*If you have to “store” and put your battery away for more than six months, you should definitely store the battery with a 50% charge. Reasons are listed in the corresponding link.
*Pay attention to temperatures, they can damage and severely hamper battery operation.
I hope this makes everybody happy.
Now… as a final note: the new unibody stuff coming from Apple doesn’t have removable batteries, however, the battery design is the same… those are lithium-ion batteries, no matter how fancy they make it look. Macbooks do not have a nuclear core in there, so the same rules apply, except that… well, you can’t remove it for storage, so more than ever, remember the 30 day rule.
A: I think the rules regarding battery management are related to the model MBP you have. The new unibody MBPs have much better battery management, and those batteries don't fall for the same ills that plagued the previous pre-unibody models.
I've had a unibody MBP at work since they were first released, I keep it plugged in all day, every day, and the battery has been fine when I go my meetings throughout the week. I have a pre-unibody MBP at home and I've burned through two batteries in less than four years.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3455",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "12"
} |
Q: A standard way of dealing with a system crash / freeze Is there a best-practice way of dealing with a system crash or a system freeze? I know of the "force-quit" keyboard shortcut. But what if it doesn't work?
I just bought a MacBookPro and I am switching from Linux. In Linux there is a possibility to shutdown the X window system, and log in from a text console, or one can communicate with the kernel directly via magic SysRq-key, and for example, remount a hard disk read-only or reboot the system.
A: If force-quitting doesn't work you have a few options:
*
*Sit it out and wait for the Mac to churn through whatever it is stuck on (this doesn't always work, but I've had beachballs go away over time).
*Trying opening Activity Viewer and see if you can kill the process there. Same caveat as above.
*Force-shutdown the Mac by holding the power button for seven seconds. This always works.
The relationship between Mac OS X and the Unix underpinnings aren't the same as they are between X window/GNOME and the kernel. It isn't nearly as open, so there is really no messing with the kernel near as I can tell in Mac OS X. I usually go the route I mentioned above and as long as I maintain the system properly and regularly I always seem to get back on my feet without any problems.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3458",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How to format the OS X installer USB stick that comes with MacBook Air? When you purchase a new MacBook Air they give you a mini-USB drive that is used to reinstall OS X and iLife '11.
How can I format this USB stick and put whatever I want on it?
The option to format is not available in Disc Utility and the USB stick mounts as a CD.
Note: I realize what the disk is used for and what Apple says on their FAQ. My question isn't "What do you think about formatting the USB?" it is "How can I format the USB?" The answer may be that it is impossible.
A: From Apple's MacBook Air: Frequently Asked Questions about Software Reinstall Drive:
Note: The MacBook Air Software Reinstall Drive is read only. You cannot erase it, reformat it, or reuse it as a general purpose USB storage device.
Honestly, thumb drives are dirt cheap these days—why would you want to lose your only way to reinstall your OS?
A: It most definitely is possible to reformat these drives and they are awesome 8GB USB ThumbDrives, once you do. However, I did it by accident, playing with the partition tables in Mac OS X Terminal (Command Line) and haven't replicated the process yet.
If this sounds too good to be true, check out this little video, I just posted to YouTube: MacBook Air Software Reinstall Drive - HACKED
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3466",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: Google Pinyin for iPhone Is there a Google Pinyin app for iPhone? Current pinyin on iPhone is really bad.
A: Currently, no. Google has only released the Pinyin app with support for Windows. A Mac OS X beta did come out last year, but it hasn't been released publicly, and as far as I know, there's no support for mobile devices.
Source
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3468",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Trigger an Automator action with a sound Is there any way to trigger an Automator action with a sound? I'd like to be able to record a sound and trigger an action every time my computer's microphone receives the sound.
A: Mac OS X comes with speech recognition (check System Preferences > Speech panel) but it can't easily recognize a generic sound, only built-in commands.
Now, it is possible to make an automator action or script that is triggered by an arbitrary phrase. However, if by "sound" you mean a beep, blip, crash or other sound that can't be recognized as a string of phonemes (ie. speech in english or possibly another language) then we're into serious Objective C programming territory here.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3470",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Group Contacts to Send Sms Instead of specifying each number one by one, is there anyway I can specify a group when sending sms?
For your info, I am using the contacts synced from Gmail, not the iPhone's built-in address book.
A: There's an app called Smart Group that might accomplish what you want to do.
A: When you create an SMS, you can specify the individuals to send to. Once sent you can see the group in your list of messages and send another message to that group. Unfortunately this is as elegant as the bundled functionality for grouping contacts gets without installing 3rd party apps.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3474",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Keychain prompt - Switch to other window via keyboard Whenever the Keychain prompt pops up, the window has the focus, and I haven't found a way to switch away from it via the keyboard. I know entering my password dismisses the window, but sometimes I'm just browsing the web, and Mail.app will trigger that window, forcing me to change focus.
Is there any way to switch out of that window via the keyboard?
A: I'm afraid as a security precaution it is not allowed to be switched away from the password prompt. Otherwise malicious apps will be given chance to record your inputs.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3476",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: How can I download podcasts directly to my jailbroken iPhone? With a jailbroken iPhone 4.x, is there a way to download podcasts (about 60-100megs in size via an rss feed -- they are not in the iTunes store) directly to the phone without syncing?
Ideally, I'd like them to appear in the standard iTunes player on the phone with the other podcasts synced from my PC, but if this isn't possible, perhaps another app is available?
Similar question here, but I'm jailbroken.
A: Get safari download manager from cydia so that you can download it and ifile which lets you play it.
A: Instacast for iPhone is a great podcast subscribing and listening app.
It is available in the iPhone app store so there is no need to jailbreak your phone.
It allows over the air syncing either from podcasts available via itunes or directly using a rss feed.
Instacast
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3477",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Is it possible to upgrade iOS without connecting the device to a computer? Is it possible to upgrade the iOS version and apps on an iPhone without connecting it to a computer and going through iTunes?
A: Devs still have to upgrade through iTunes, Xcode only lets you put other apps on your phone. So no, there really isn't another way.
A: Well, you can connect it to an Apple computer running Xcode and upgrade it there. But most non-developers would find that more horrible, not less.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3478",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: What is the best iCharger that charges from AA batteries? I will be leaving on a vacation soon to a place where there are several days between power outlets. What charger should I use to charge/run my iP(ad/hone)?
A: I’ve had “decent” experience with this one with an iPhone 3GS.
I’ve brought that one after reading from someone who actually tested it; you can find his little post: Here.
I didn’t test with all those batteries, but I can say that a pack of 4 AA batteries will charge the iPhone from 10-20% to 100%, but the batteries were drained in the process. An expensive idea… but a life saver if you really need it.
But for long trips away from power
sources, non-rechargeable lithium AAs
are by far the best
A: Pre-built Mintyboost for iPhone. Takes two AA's, and will re-charge your iPhone 4. Will not charge the iPad, but if you go to the project page, they describe the method they used to reverse engineer how much power it takes to charge an iPad.
A: After searching the net for a while it seems like current solutions will not charge an iPad with AA batteries. The iPad battery is rated at 25Wh so anything less then that will not even give you 1 full charge. Folowing @Martíns link I found the Tekkeon myPower ALL Plus MP3450, rated at 50Wh. It is quite expensive (currently at $160), but it should provide 17 extra hours of use.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3485",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "0"
} |
Q: Second gen nano won't connect to computer I have a second gen nano that will not charge or connect to the computer. I see it charging when the screen is on, but when it goes to sleep, it stops charging. I've left the thing on overnight and it's on half battery life. Usually you'll see the little battery with the lightning bolt over it when it's sleeping and charging. That will come up once in a while but promptly go away again.
So I figure the thing's shot and I need to immediately get the music off of the ipod. I try plugging the thing into my Windows 7 computer and it tells me that the device driver cannot be found. I go through everything that Apple tells me to do (reinstall driver, a whole bunch of USB stuff) to no avail. iTunes won't recognize it unless the computer recognizes it so I can't put it into disk mode to get the songs off.
This is my last step before taking it to an Apple store; any suggestions?
A: You seem to have done everything you can before resorting to really trying to restore it (which will wipe it). Bear in mind that an Apple store will probably wipe it or (if under warranty) replace it.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3487",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Why are the iPad games Epic Citadel and Gravity HD crashing on startup? I've got 2 iPad games that crash (vanish from the screen) on startup. The games are Epic Citadel and Gravity HD. Both apps go through the loading sequence then the screen goes black and returns back to the main iPad screen. I have tried reinstalling Epic Citadel with no luck. I don't want to delete and reinstall Gravity HD as I would lose where I am up to. I have raised a support call with the latter game but have not heard anything (2 weeks ago). Any ideas on what to do?
A: Try rebooting the iPad to free up some memory. Hold the lock button until the "slide to power off" slider comes on, slide it, then turn the iPad back on.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3491",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Log out other user w/o first switching to that user My wife use separate accounts and quick user switching on a MBP running 10.6. Sometimes I want to log her out to free up some RAM, but I'd like to avoid logging in as her, logging out, then logging back in as me.
I have seen a terminal solution... is there a better way? Thanks!
A: I think the simplest way of doing it is :
sudo killall -9 -u wifes_name
A: Using the Terminal, you can kill her loginwindow process and any programs she has open will be closed... but this will cause her to lose any unsaved work she has! In fact, this is the very reason you need to log in as her to log out: When you log in as her, all her programs again have access to the GUI, so they can prompt you to confirm closure, save changes or take other action before logging out.
If you're sure that she only has things like a web browser, iTunes, etc open, not Pages, Word, Photoshop, or anything else with documents, then you could try from the terminal:
kill `ps awwwwux | grep her_short_username | grep loginwindow | grep -v grep | awk "{ print \$2 }"`
On OSX 10.10.4: (slight edit from last comment):
export pn=`ps awwwwux | awk '/her_short_username/ && /loginwind[o]w/ { print $2 }'`
sudo kill -9 $pn
A: You can use the Activity Monitor to log another user out by killing their login process:
*
*Run Activity Monitor
*In the filter at the top-right, type loginwindow
*Click the row with the user's name in the User column
*Click Quit Process, then Force Quit, and type your password.
This is just a nicer(?) GUI version of Josh's answer.
Before step 2, you can review the other user's running processes to see if they are running any apps that might lose data on logout.
A: This command is simpler than the one suggested and it will have the desire result to kill all the user's processes (I had to run it twice)
sudo pkill -9 -u user
If you just want to kill the loginwindow process for that user you can do the following:
sudo pkill -9 -u user loginwindow
A: In my opinion, the possible loss of data far outweights the possible gain in RAM.
Moreover, it has been a long time since Unix was able to swap memory to disk when a process was idle.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3492",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "39"
} |
Q: What's a good iPhone app that will let me view files on my network? I'm looking for an app which provides functionality similar to Apple Finder's "SHARED" feature, or Microsoft Windows Explorer's Network Neighborhood. Basically, I should be able to use my iPhone to access shared files on computers that are on my same network. Any suggestions?
Specifications:
*
*Doesn't require software to be downloaded/running on any of your machines. The only piece of software the solution requires is the iPhone App.
*You should only be able to access files that are shared on the network.
*You should be able to access files on network drives that aren't connected to computers (e.g. NAS).
*Doesn't require jailbreaking the phone.
Examples of things I'm not looking for:
*
*A screen sharing solution (e.g. remote desktop, logmein, etc.), this violates #1 and #2 above.
*Far Finder: violates #1 and #2, possibly #3 as well.
A: I think NetPortal by Stratospherix may do what you want. I use their FileBrowser for iPad, but I haven’t tried NetPortal, which is their iPhone version. They also have a free NetPortalLite version.
(Sorry, I don’t have the rep to include more than one hyperlink.)
A: You are going to need an AFP or SMB client then - thats what the machines themselves are doing. I don't think there are any AFP or SMB clients in the app store - therefore you may have to jailbreak your phone to use one - and after a few searches, still don't know if there are any available (I do however find a lot of options for mounting your iPhone on your Mac).
A: You can try LogMeIn. It's a service for the Mac that sits in your menu bar and an application for the iPhone that gives you VNC/RDC-like access to your Mac. I've had great success with it in the past and the free service is really easy to use.
A: Remote file browser, works well.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3495",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "8"
} |
Q: In OS X is it possible to specify which network connection an app uses? My ethernet connects to the LAN, my airport connects to a different network (it's another mac sharing a VPN connection). I want all apps except the iPhone Simulator to connect via the LAN.
Is this possible?
A: The main way you would have to go about this is probably using ipfw command line, although I really don't have much experience with it. You could make custom routing rules to do what you need to do.
Some other options:
*
*If the app was trying to use something specificially on that network, it should route that way. As in, if you local network is 192.168.x.x, and your remote is 10.0.x.x, if you try to access something on 10.0.x.x, it should route that way.
*Another idea that comes to mind (Which really just jumps around the problem) would be to have an applescript that changed the order of interfaces when you needed it. Your mac should be using whatever is at the top of the list as its primary network in preferences. If you drag airport up, it would use that as the main network. Maybe scripting this would be easy to do and a quick change when you need to test something in simulator.
A: You might want to try Little Snitch.
I'm not sure it has this feature since I haven't used it in a while, but it's worth the try.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3496",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "12"
} |
Q: Changing yahoo messanger's status using mac terminal Does anybody know how I can change my yahoo messenger's status using a command in mac terminal !? Or anything except the regular way to change it !?
thanx
A: You could try to see if "Automator" would allow you to automate it, but I don't see any cmd line parameters to messenger on the mac.
A: Yahoo Messenger doesn’t provide an automation mechanism, however not all is lost. You can set set a keyboard shortcut for the statuses (they are in the menu) so you could do this:
Go to System Preferences, Keyboard -> Keyboard Shortcuts, then from the list select “Application Shortcuts" then click “+” to add a new one.
Select Yahoo Messenger and type the name of the command exactly as it appears in the yahoo statuses menu. It is case sensitive. A simple typo will cause the shortcut to fail.
I.e.: “Busy" is not the same as "busy”.
Then set a key combination:
Look at mine:
DRAWBACK: You need to have Yahoo active (i.e. focus) so the menu displayed belongs to yahoo. That means is not a “global shortcut”.
PLUS: This method is useful for any other application/Command.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3497",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: What Are The Signs of RAM (Slot) Failure? I've recently attempted to install 2 sticks of 2GB RAM into my MacBook Pro, but unfortunately had jammed one stick in the lower RAM compartment (Apparently I forgot to enter it at 45°) and had a rough time getting it out.
The RAM stick is busted and had to replace it, but I'm quite sure the slot might suffered a bit.
What are the signs of RAM failure?
A: A hosed slot (other than the obvious visual short circuit if the metal connectors are in contact with each other) will possibly cause the machine not to start.
It can as well damage the memory stick (short circuit) when the computer is turned on with a stick in it.
If the voltage mess is big enough, in theory it could damage more than that (i.e the board).
Electricity in electronics is very delicate and if the wrong current or voltage flows to the wrong place, bad things happen.
Or… maybe nothing happens. Use a magnifier to see if the pins are aligned. If you see some in contact, it’s best to remove the battery and unplug the laptop and try to separate the pins that are in contact, even if you have to sacrifice the slot forever.
Repairing that is probably expensive (800++ u$) because you need to change all the mother board.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3499",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: How to view Adobe Photoshop PDFs on my iPad I'm attempting to deploy a PDF I created in Photoshop on my iPad using the PDF Pro app. When I view a text PDF, everything works flawlessly - however, when I put my image-loaded PDF on the device, it fails to load (and, if it matters, displays a completely wrong file size next to it). I'm willing to use other means, but I need to be able to view PDF's with images ASAP for a company meeting tomorrow.
How am I able to get this to work?
A: Photoshop PDFs are a bit wonky even outside the iPad, and I have found it best to flatten and place them in InDesign and output a PDF from there. Even so, the iPad's PDF support is limited and searching the web for "iPad PDF viewing" yields a lot of reviews for PDF-reading applications.
In the end, however, it would be best here to have a Plan B (i.e., laptop and projector) if this so important. PDF support for the iPad still has a long way to go.
A: You can now get Adobe Reader for iPad. It is the best software for displaying everyday PDFs.
However as @Philip Regan has pointed out, Photoshop PDFs are a bit funny outside Photoshop
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3502",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Where do the Notes associated with Gmail accounts get synced to on iPod touch? I noticed that notes, like Calendars, get synced with a Gmail account on the iPod touch.
But where do they get synced to? Where can I access them online?
A: There's a difference between syncing with iTunes and over the air sync.
If you set up your Gmail account to use over the air sync then when you open up the Notes app (on the iPod), you should notice a back button on the top left that allows you to change which account you use for notes. If you choose your Gmail account and start creating notes, you will start seeing them appear in your Gmail account, under the "Notes" label. This sync happens automatically once you press the "done" button on each note (as long as you have an internet connection).
This has nothing to do with iTunes sync.
You will only see notes that you create under this account in Gmail. You will not see all of your old notes. For that, see this question.
A: It syncs the notes from the Notes application on your iOS device to the Notes using a special mailbox on the Mail Accounts you have enabled (eg. your Gmail account here). They should appear in the Notes section in Mail.app on your Mac or in a label called "Notes" on Gmail.
A: add notes to your email address
ex : if your email is sam@gmail.com just type sam+notes@gmail.com and send it
then you can filter it in your inbox with label NOTES
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3504",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Can I install Windows 7 on a MacBook Air without a SuperDrive? Is it possible to install Windows 7 as a second OS on a Macbook Air with no access to a superdrive? And if it is, how?
A: The most straight forward method to actually getting this done is to get your hands on an external DVD drive that connects via USB but is not the point of your question.
Yes it is possible; you'll need to get your copy of Windows 7 DVD put onto a USB thumb drive. (There are several guides available online - I've not done it myself so I can't recommend one)
Another alternative requires a lot of extra work and is really designed if you're planning to image or install on multiple MacBook Airs; it's possible to NetBoot your MacBook Air using the USB Ethernet adapter. (Source) This requires either a rigged out version of Mac OS X or Mac OS X Server handy. With DeployStudio you can install a pre-made image of Windows 7 that way.
A: I created a bootable USB stick with my Windows Vista DVD. I followed the instructions on Install Win 7 on MacBook Air from a USB drive.
A: Even better way is to use VirtualBox to install windows or other OS on mac book.
You can always delete it when you want. With a little loss in speed, you gain a lot.
See : http://www.virtualbox.org/
I had blogged on how to install ubantu Linux with VirtualBox. Installing windows is no different.
*
*http://pyfunc.blogspot.com/search/label/VirtualBox
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3505",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: Can I set OS X to automatically open ICS files in iCal? Can I configure OS X so that the default open action on an ICS files is to open it in iCal?
A: If you highlight the file in the finder, press command-i to open the file info dialog. Change the entry "Open with" to "iCal" (select "other" and browse for iCal if it is not listed). Press the button "change all" to make "open in iCal" the default action.
A: Take a look at this Apple StackExchange question and answer.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3509",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: Is there a widget for Mac OS X dashboard that has bigger sticky notes? Is there a widget for Mac OS X dashboard to write down notes?
N.B. What I use now are yellow small sticky notes (I'm using 8 on several spots on the scren).
I really love them, but sometimes it would be useful to enlarge them and make them bigger rather than put several of them into one.
A: I had the exact same problem, and thus i created "Bigger Notes" widget.
You can find it here:
https://github.com/fauria/bigger-notes
Hope it helps.
Regards.
A: UPDATE: KNotesWidget link is broken. I searched and found it here.
Perhaps you’re looking for KNotesWidget. (link is broken)
Provides an alternative to Apple’s stickies widget with more functionality:
*
*unlimited text size
*resizeable
*collapseable
*allows instant spawn of another k-note
A: Unfortunately I haven't come accross anything like Stickies on OS X.
I'm writing this in the hope a Mac developer researching the topic sees an opportunity.
Features from Stickies that I am missing:
*
*Toggle Stickies on and off with a global keyboard shortcut.
*I don't want to go through the Dashboard, I want Stickies to pop on my desktop on command!
*Set an alarm for any Sticky. Awesome for reminders, or daily tasks. The Sticky note goes to "sleep" (it hides) and will pop on your desktop at the required time. You can even have it play a sound and animate!
*Simple auto formatting of links. You can drag the browser's uri to a Stickies. You can click links in Stickies to open in browser. Great for keeping lists of articles to read (why would I create a new online account, or use a browser extension when I can freely edit my list anyway I want? Not to mention it is saved somewhere on my harddrive that I can easily read without the application running, and backup).
*If the text gets long, a scrollbar appears. You can choose how much screen estate to use for your Stickies.
*You can easily set the title of the Stickies.
*You can manage the Stickies, hide ones you don't want to see now, and bring them back later. So in effect it also works as a small notes database, but it is primarily a great scratchpad.
*Being able to hide a Stickies is great because sometimes you may want to keep a Stickies visible while working on something, and you might want to hide others which get in the way.
*Stickies had awesome shortcuts like: bring back all "hidden" stickies in view.
*They were not as pretty as OS X Stickies, but you could set transparency and colours freely.
In general I find Mac apps to be superior in usability and looks, but this is one type of app where nearly every attempt I've seen on OS X veers towards "personal wiki" (too much), or online synching (don't need), or just plain clunky (dashboard widget).
I used Stickies on Windows for YEARS. I would totally pay 20 € or more for that on OS X.
A: I know this is old but Ill add one that I just found in case people are still looking at this. It's called WikityWidgets I have yet to use it because I just downloaded it but does look like it will be pretty good.
A: I'm using SimpleNote on my Mac and iPhone for pretty much all my note-taking. It automatically syncs notes between computers/devices, so might not be for you if you only want local notes. I find it's really convenient for accessing my notes everywhere, though.
It doesn't look like big sticky notes, instead you get a list view of your notes with a preview, from which you can open the entire note. I find it really pretty, but it might not be the aestethic you're after.
Edit: Forgot to mention that I use the DashNote widget on my Macs. There are other options as well, but they mainly come as stand-alone programs.
A: http://junecloud.com/software/dashboard/notefile.html
Just what you asked for. Its much better than the default stickies.
A: I use Tomboy notes. It's similar to stickies, but with some nice extra features.
*
*Link notes together simply by typing a previous notes title in your current note
*Recently accessed notes are quickly accessible
*You can 'pin' notes so that they are always quickly accessible
*Create multiple notebooks
Searching notes and linking related notes together is really easy. The only feature I think it's lacking is a way to sync with my iPhone.
A: Check out Secret NotePad. It looks like you can resize it, lock it, and apply various styles to it. It also looks pretty nice.
A: Don't use stickies, especially the widget ones that come with the computer because if you click the checkmark box they disapear and you loose all your information. Unless there is a majic way of recovering the data.
A: Simple Antnotes (https://apps.apple.com/us/app/simple-antnotes/id846599902?mt=12) is a good one.
Pros:
1. A nice interface with a widget. A click will bring it all and another click will hide it all. No accidental delete. Easy to use hide options.
2.Resize, start on login options.
3."Make on top" option with a nice pin button. (ONE THAT IS REALLY HELPFUL)
4."Make translucent on inactive", "Hide on inactive" options.
Cons:
Looks like there is only mac app and there is no iOS app. so no sync.
They have a pro version also.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3514",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "13"
} |
Q: Photos not appearing on iPhone I have an iPhone 3G, whenever I add a photo into a folder in iTunes, and then I sync it to my iPhone, the photo doesn't appear at all in the folder on my iPhone.
Why is it doing this? The image is JPEG image type.
A: There could be any number of issues here; not enough room on the device, corrupt image(s), adding photos in the wrong place... Since I can't know what your exact issue is without more details, I will offer up a suggestion for a "flow" that works for me.
*
*I sync photos from various cameras (including iPhones) to iPhoto
*In iPhoto, I have setup a Smart Folder that has at least a Date filter of Last X Months where X is something you can specify depending on how far back in time you want to sync over to your iPhone
Once it is setup, iPhoto will show you the photos that match that filter
*Finally, in iTunes, you will connect your iPhone, select it in the iTunes window and using the tab bar at the top, select Photos. Turn on Sync Photos from iPhoto, select Selected albums, events and faces, and automatically include no events (note: include whatever events you want there, I include none). Then scroll down in the Albums list until you see the Smart Folder that you created in iPhoto and put a checkmark next to it.
Then the next time you sync your iPhone with iTunes, it should sync over all the photos in that Smart Folder. If it is too many, you can reduce the time frame that you pull photos from or use tags in iPhoto to mark some pictures to exclude and then include that information in your Smart Folder setup (telling that folder to exclude those tags).
If this is not the kind of information that helps you, then post some more info about the issues you are having so we can try to answer those specific issues directly.
Good luck!
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3518",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Suggestions for an iPhone app for contacts I am looking for an iPhone app for our sales team that would allow them to do the following:
*
*Group contacts into custom groups
*Add meeting notes against a contact
*Locate contacts on a map (optional provide directions from current location)
*Store extra images such as business card against a contact
*Doesn't screw up Outlook contacts
A: Here's one that appears to do what you want, and happens to be free:
http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/ycontacts/id340140852?mt=8
A: You might need to use something like Bento or FileMaker.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3519",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Voice memos not being deleted from iTunes I have iTunes (10.0.1) syncing with my iPhone (4.1) with the Voice Memos option enabled.
I created a single voice memo. I synced the phone and the voice memo transferred correctly. I then deleted it on the iPhone and synced again. iTunes still has the voice memo in the "Voice Memos" playlist. Additionally, when I click the iPhone's "Voice Memo" playlist in iTunes, I see the one file there, but it has an exclamation mark near the number.
I have 2 questions:
*
*What does this exclamation mark mean? There seems to be no way to get more info about it.
*How can I get iTunes to delete the voice memos when I delete the on the phone?
A: A workaround that I found, is to go to iTunes Music library, find the voice memo, and then manually delete it from there. After you sync, the Voice Memo playlist will be deleted from underneath your iPhone (in iTunes), so you won't see that file that had an exclamation mark anymore.
A: Right click on the mouse and you should be able to see delete.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3522",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Can I hide the "All on My iPhone" option in iPhone's Contacts app? I'm using Gmail for Contacts, Notes, Calendar, and Mail sync.
Since I only have one account, most of these apps don't have the top level selection page which let's you choose which account to use. They always use my Gmail account, which is exactly what I want.
The one exception is Contacts, which allows me to tap "Groups", and then has an option "All on My iPhone". I want to disable this feature, so that I don't accidentally add contacts that aren't synced with Gmail. The Notes and Calendar apps do this perfectly... I can only add notes and appointments to my Gmail account, not to the phone itself.
I'm using Gmail's Exchange sync, by the way.
A: Unless you manually go to that "All on My iPhone" section and add a contact, contacts would be created by default on the account you're viewing, i.e. Gmail. Just keep the Contacts app viewing only the Gmail contact list and you should be fine.
iOS5 now has a Default Account option under Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Contacts (section) (Credit to Peter for the update)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3527",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Search tool for Safari I'm using Keywurl now, but since Safari 5.0.1 there are also supported extensions for search. I'd like to add any search url format and assign it to a shortcut.
e.g. g macbook air is google "macbook air", w ipod is google "site:en.wikipedia.org ipod" etc.
Any good suggestions?
A: I know what you want because I had that in Opera a long time ago, but then I switched to Mac full time and dropped Opera. Safari lacks in that aspect.
I don’t know if there’s a specific extension for that, but you might want to take a look at tools like LaunchBar ($$) or Quicksilver (Free).
I use Launchbar and I type ‘goo’ and then whatever I want to type and enter. I Have searches for StackOverflow, Wikipedia, Amazon, etc. You can add whatever you want.
After some time doing that, it becomes extremely much more natural, because you can invoke either of those from anywhere in the system. You just invoke Launchbar, goo + xxxxx and you’re done.
Give it a try, I believe is a much more natural workflow than having to find safari, going to the search box and typing there.
A: Glims, a Safari plugin (not to be confused with an extension), will do what you want and more and allow you to customize the experience.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3535",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Can I use multiple gmail-based accounts with the same username (but different domains) with Mail.app & IMAP? A recent mail file corruption has led me to finally putting Eudora to bed. Since my personal email has been backed by gmail for a few years, and my work email is a Google apps email account, I figured I'd take advantage of server-based storage to not worry about fixing Eudora mail files, but just use IMAP to sync up with the servers in Apple mail and be done with it.
Well, my personal account and my company account are both the same user name, i.e. username123@gmail.com, and username123@company.com. (Not real.) And it seems like this is causing a collision in Mail.app. On editing the initial mail config setup, I get an error: "Invalid Directory: The account path /Users/.../Library/Mail/IMAP-username123@imap.gmail.com is already being used by the account Company Mail".
I was concerned by this, but it did seem to be busily downloading mail into the "All Mail" folder for the new account, so I let it run. But, yeah, it seems broken. What should be individual inbox folders for each account show all the same sets of messages. That's no good.
A funny thing is that I've had these same two accounts on my iPhone, with IMAP, and it keeps them straight!
So, am I doomed to not being able to use Apple Mail in this scenario?
Update: Today, the two inboxes look separate, after a restart of Mail overnight. However, I still get the same error when I try to change the personal account to send through an alternate server, so I think there is still a problem here.
A: Follow these steps:
*
*Open Mail and delete each of the conflicting accounts. Close Mail.
*Go to ~/Library/Mail/ and make sure any IMAP-username123@imap.gmail.com folder has been deleted. If there is any such folder left, delete it now.
*Open Mail and create one of the accounts and let Mail load your messages. Close Mail.
*Go to ~/Library/Mail/ and verify that a folder called IMAP-username123@imap.gmail.com has been created.
*Open ~/Library/Preferences/com.apple.mail.plist. If you have installed Xcode, this file will open with Property List Editor. Otherwise you can download a free trial of PlistEdit Pro to open this file. Using a plain text editor with .plist files is more difficult.
*With the .plist file open, click the disclosure triangle for MailAccounts. Here you will find Item 0, Item 1, etc.
*If you click the disclosure triangle for each of the Item headings, you will find that one of them has the value username123@gmail.com or username123@company.com for the AccountName key, depending on which account you created in step 3.
*Change the value for AccountPath for this Item so that the path will not collide with that of the next account you are to create.
*Save and close the .plist file.
*Open Mail and let it reload your messages. Close Mail.
*Go to ~/Library/Mail/ and verify that a folder with the path value you provided in step 8 has been created. Delete the old folder called IMAP-username123@imap.gmail.com.
*Open Mail and create the remaining account normally and let Mail load your messages.
A: You could try setting one up as POP but leave the messages on the server, and the other as IMAP.
A: I have seven Gmail accounts set up on Apple Mail via IMAP, running OS X Mountain Lion. I had no problems setting up any of them except one. Long story short, the fix was easy. I turned off the 2-step security verification in the Google account settings. That was it!
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3536",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Exporting iTunes smart playlist definitions I have 30 or so smart playlists defined in iTunes on the PC. What I'd like to do is export all of these definitions. To clarify, I don't want to export the songs in each of these playlists, I want to export the definition (e.g. "Artist contains Foo").
I have a lot of conditions defined for each playlist, and would prefer a solution that doesn't involve manually performing the same steps 30 times. For example, if I could export registry settings, this would be the best solution.
A: If you select a smart playlist, then choose File > Library > Export Playlist... and choose the XML file format, you can then use the corresponding Import Playlist... command from another iTunes library to import the smart playlist definition.
Unfortunately, iTunes only lets you select one playlist at a time, so there's no way to select multiple playlists and export them at the same time. You can do the "Export Library..." which does everything, but then you have all sorts of extra stuff you don't want.
If you're comfortable hacking around a bit though, you could export the whole library, then use PlistEdit Pro to edit the file and remove all the playlist and track dictionaries that you don't want, leaving just your smart playlists. Then you'd have all the playlist definitions in a single file that you can import into another iTunes library.
A: After rebuilding my SmartLists for the seemingly 100th time, I had to find a better way. I came up with a solution, but it takes some pre-planning - you have to export your lists as XML before you lose them. I then remove all song references from the XML file so the file only contains the SmartList parameters. Then when I need to restore the list (like after an update/upgrade), I simply import the XML file. Here are the instructions to save copies of your lists:
*
*Right-click on your SmartList and choose Export, then be sure to select XML as Save As Filetype.
*Open the .XML file with a text editor and search for <key>Playlists</key>. Set the cursor at the beginning of that line, then use your slide-bar to scroll all the way to the top. Select all lines from where you started up to the line that has <key>Tracks</key> , then delete those lines. (Deletes the <dict></dict> section under Tracks.)
*Look for the line with <key>Playlist Items</key> . Skip the next line ( </dict> ), then click at the beginning of the next line. Scroll to the bottom of the file, then select all lines down to the third line from the bottom ( </array> ). Remove those lines. (Deletes the Playlist Items <array>)
Doing this reduces the XML file size (2k to 3k depending on the complexity of your list), and stores only the parameters of your SmartList, not the actual songs list. Importing these XML files will rebuild your song list, and this hasn't failed me yet. Remember to include these files with your backups so that you can recover these lists if your hard drive fails. Also remember to repeat the process if you ever change the parameters of your SmartList.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3537",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "11"
} |
Q: How do I get a refund on an iOS app I just bought? I just bought an iPhone app knowing that it may or may not provide the feature which was the entire reason for me buying it. I figured I could always get a refund if it doesn't do what I want. It doesn't. But now I've realized I don't know how to get a refund. Is it possible?
A: In iTunes, go to Store ->View My Account ->Purchase History. Select Report a Problem. Fill out the form explaining what happened, and Apple will get back to you with information about whether your refund has been approved or denied.
A: I have not had success with "Reporting a problem," because my requests have been ignored in three different cases now.
Here's my workflow that has worked for me each time:
*
*Purchase App
*Find something wrong with App
*Report a problem (it will be ignored, but do this just to say you did)
*Contact credit card provider and dispute the charge with your reasons (mine are usually "software did not work at all" or "as promised")
*Wait 3-5 business days
*Credit card provider resolves dispute, issues refund
*Apple disables AppleID due to "security risk" of account access
*Contact apple support by emailing or asking for a phone call
*Wait 1-2 business days for response
*Kindly explain what happened, they respond by following a walkthrough of re-enabling your account after verifying security questions
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3540",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "9"
} |
Q: Is there an app that will make my (jailbroken) iPhone vibrate when a call is answered? I have an jailbroken iPhone and I want it to make a little vibration when the other participant answer the call so I don't have to hold it near to my ear while the phone is dialing.
I found this feature in MCleaner app from Cydia but it costs too much and have a lot of other features that I don't need. Is there a better way to do that?
A: As someone who is involved in some iPhone developing, I can tell you that you can’t do that with the official SDK, so unless you find another Jailbroken app, there’s no “official” way to do it.
A: Get Phone Buzzer from Cydia, it works brilliantly, and its free.
A: Hey make sure in your settings that you have a vibration selected.... I thought I had the same issue until I realized that a type of vibration wasn't selected.
jonlo
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3543",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Why does my iPhone 4 get so hot during charging? My iPhone 4 gets hot as the battery is charged. To compound the issue, I think I bought a cheap case that traps heat, which in turn makes the phone even hotter -- you can feel the heat if you hold it in your hand while it is charging. When you stop charging it, the excess heat goes away.
My question is: does this damage the hardware? Also, to reduce the heat, I put the phone on the floor (which is cooler) and I found that the device was not as hot as before (previously I had put the phone to charge on a wooden table). I am unsure as to whether my measure helps in elongating the battery life and protecting the electronic components.
A: FYI, iPhone 4 does have heat sensors and if it gets dangerously hot it will show a black screen with a yellow warning sign and shut down. It's perfectly reasonable to be concerned and take the measures you have to increase heat dissipation, but batteries warming on charging is quite normal. I wouldn't worry unless the iPhone displays an overheating warning consistently.
A: The charging process heats the device (phone/laptop/or any other battery), make sure that it’s relatively acceptable. If in doubt take it to an Apple Store together with your charger to compare with others. If you live in a very hot place, it might be safer to help dissipate heat by using the floor or any other metal surface.
If it gets too hot, the battery will not be happy and will “last less”.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3545",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Anyone have any experience installing Corsair CM3X4GSD1066 memory on a Macbook Pro mid 2009? Is the memory compatible for use in the mid-2009 aluminum unibody MBP?
Reference: http://www.corsair.com/products/valueselect/default.aspx#notebook
The specification is compatible, but from my research, there are at least two conflicting user reviews on this matter:
*
*Amazon product page, which said that it is compatible, but failed after five months.
*newegg product page which says that it is not compatible, however it does not specify the MBP in detail.
Sorry I can't provide links for newegg & amazon page, don't have enough rep.
Thanks in advance.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3546",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: iPhone 4 requires recalibrating the compass almost every time I use it My iPhone 4 asks me to recalibrate the compass by using a figure 8 motion almost every time I use it.
I'm wondering if this happens because my phone is defective, or if other people are having the same issue.
A: According to an Apple support article:
After updating or restoring your device, you may notice that the recalibration alert appears more frequently. This is expected behavior, because the calibration database is being recreated. The frequency diminishes over time as you calibrate the device for various locations.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3552",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: How to Repair 15" Mac Book Pro Core 2 Duo 2.16 Ghz That Won't Power On? I'm attempting to revive a non-working 15" Core 2 Duo Mac Book Pro purchased early 2007. The laptop suddenly powered off (or so I was told). Attempting to power on gives only a few signs of life.
*
*Magsafe lite works when power cord plugged in
*Hard drive spins up when power button pressed
*No chime, no back light, no power button light, no fans
*Holding the power button for 5 seconds will spin-down the hard drive
*After drive spinds down, hitting power will turn it back on.
Please give me your best suggestions on getting this system booting again.
In attempts to fix, I've reseated the RAM and most internal connections. I'm willing to replace any internal components if economically viable.
Update: a reset of the system mgmt controler brought the fans back online
A: In the absence of “chime” there are three things to blame: RAM, GPU or Board/CPU.
I know because I had the same problem throughout the years with different Macs (and even Powerbooks). Try removing some RAM and putting some other modules, also remove the battery as suggested by Philip in the comments.
Using an external display may help identify screen problems too.
And finally an Apple Store, even if it’s out of warranty, will diagnose the box (sometimes for free, it depends) sometimes for a small fee. Bear in mind they will always go for the brute force route: “you have to replace X,Y,Z”, 1000 u$s. Thanks for Coming, Bye. ;)
A: In order of desperation:
*
*Press Cmd+Alt+power for 3 seconds to start it. If you get a chime you're back in business.
*Reset the pram: Turn on the computer and immediately press Cmd+Alt+P+R. Keep it pressed until you hear two chimes.
*Reset the System Management Controller: Unplug power, remove battery, press start button for 5 seconds. Put the power back on, press the power button. You should have a chime or a series of loud beeps.
If nothing works, you have a motherboard issue. Loud beeps indicate a number of issues depending on the number of beeps. A chime and nothing displayed is most likely a display issue.
Reminder: The Altkey, also called option key, is the one with the mark ⎇ and the label Alt. The command key has the mark ⌘ and is labeled cmd.
A: The thing can't get through post and not giving audible signals?
I would say RAM is on the lowest end but remove it and check if it starts beeping and flashing sleep LED?
If no then it is usually water damage or more usually X1600/GF8600 GPU problem.
No sense to go to Apple Service Provider with that. You might try local repair shop though if quote on finding a short on LB or reballing/replacing GPU be moderate.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3553",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: iPhone picture privacy app I am looking for a picture privacy app supporting the following features:
*
*Unlimited number of "vaults" (note: only one vault is bad, one real vault plus one fake vault is bad as well, only an unlimited number really allows to hide vaults and to use the app with several groups of people)
*Folder support per vault
*Full screen mode
*Picture zoom
*Picture slideshow and manual forward/backward with low decoding delay
*Mass upload
*Great, well designed, visually appealing user interface
Do you have any idea or recommendation?
Thanks!
A: If you're looking for privacy, I've heard about an app called Ben the Bodyguard that's going to be released soon. Judging from their intro page, it will probably meet your "well designed UI" requirement.
Apart from 3rd party apps like that one, iOS is not really designed for multiple users. Use a lockscreen PIN and don't share the phone if you want privacy in the meantime.
A: I believe My Eyes Only Photo matches your list.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3554",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Double contacts after syncing with Outlook I have duplicate contacts in my iPhone, not knowing their source or how to safely delete them.
I synced my iPhone contacts with Outlook via iTunes. I have 220 contacts in Outlook. I estimate 100 of these are duplicates in the iPhone i.e in both the Contact and Phone app. They are apparently exact duplicates.
The strange thing is that the duplicate ones do not get synced to Outlook so there are no duplicate contacts there.
I don't know which of two contacts is linked to the respective Outlook contact, so I fear that simply deleting one contact may delete it in Outlook as well, which would be bad.
Does anyone have any ideas on the cause and cure for this behaviour?
A: I fixed this by manually setting the "middle name" to "A" on all Outlook contacts, then synced with the iPhone, then manually deleted all contacts without an "A" middle name on the iPhone, then removed the "A" middle names in Outlook and then synced with the iPhone again.
Drawbacks: lots of manual work and loosing the middle name content (luckily not used in my contacts).
Using the middle name is good because it is shown in list view on the iPhone, so one can quickly see what must be removed without looking at details.
A: I encountered the exact same problem but with Address Book, to the point where I had duplicate contacts both on the phone and in Address Book. To get around it, I went through Address Book, deleted all of the dupes (and they were all exact duplicates), and then synced Address Book for the iPhone with Address Book on my Mac such that it deleted all of the contacts on the phone and just started fresh. I still have no idea how it happened so I'm not sure how to prevent it from happening again beyond tying the contacts to Address Book from now on, though that's not how I like to handle things. Syncing is a hard thing to program, but I would think Apple would be better at it than this.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3555",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Prevent disk reordering on boot I have 3 physical drives in my Mac Pro with OSX 10.6.4. Occasionally after rebooting the machine, the disk numbering changes such that the /dev/disk# does not reference the same drive as it did before the reboot.
Example
/dev/disk0 -> 64GB SSD drive
/dev/disk1 -> 640GB Hitachi
/dev/disk2 -> 160GB WD (BootCamp)
After rebooting the mapping might be
/dev/disk0 -> 160GB WD (BootCamp)
/dev/disk1 -> 640GB Hitachi
/dev/disk2 -> 64GB SSD drive
Even more confusing is that the remapping is not consistent. For most stuff this is irrelevant. However I also have Parallels installed to allow access to the BootCamp partition from within OSX. Parallels uses the /dev/disk# path in it's configuration file so, after rebooting OSX I launch Parallels and it tells me that the disk is no longer present.
Is there a way to tell OSX to always assign a given drive to /dev/disk0?
A: There does not seem to be a way to specify a device for a given drive. Your best bet might be to not auto-mount, then use a LaunchAgent to mount them in the order you want with a pause between each mount, and see if it works that way. This method might get messed up if you have a USB key or something else that auto-mounts available to the system when you boot.
A: One trick I've used to solve your Parallels use case is to have the config file point to a symbolic link file, and then update the symlink to point to the correct device before starting the vm.
If you're comfortable writing scripts, you could use a shell script like this to determine the device name and update the symlink based on the volume name:
BOOTCAMP_DEVICE=`mount | grep BOOTCAMP | cut -f 1 -d ' '`
ln -f -s $BOOTCAMP_DEVICE path_to_symlink
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3561",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: How can I print a PDF X-1A from a iWork Pages document? In order to use my university's printing shop, they said they need a PDF x-1a format.
I noticed in Pages that I can print as "Save as PDF-X" but a little googling says this is not exactly the PDF x1a format, but another one. Googling did not turn up exactly how to get the x-1a format.
A: If they can take PDF-X1/a, then they can take any of the others as well; you shouldn't have any problems.
PDF-X1/a was simply the first in a long line of iterations of a new PDF schema that basically does a lot of preflighting for you (it's one of the best things to happen in the printing industry in a long time). It means your document is "press ready", which mainly applies to SWOP presses but can apply to small printers as well.
As a footnote to all of that... You can also output press-ready PDFs using the Mac OS X-supplied "Save as PDF" button in the print dialog box from just about any application.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3563",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: What is the most classic keyboard shortcut for switching between input sources (languages)? What is the most classic/used keyboard shortcut for switching between input sources (languages)?
Except for cmd+space of course which is used by Spotlight.
A: If you want your shortcut don't interfere with spotlight you can use option + cmd + space or something else.
but as you said cmd + space is really good as myself use this and replace control + space for spotlight, and use option + space for QuickSilver.
A: I use option
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3566",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: iTunes: Prevent store from loading on start? I'm running Mac OS X 10.5.8 and iTunes 10.0.1.
When I start iTunes, iTunes loads the iTunes Store. How can I stop iTunes from loading the iTunes Store upon start?
Note: I still want to have access to the iTunes Store.
A: iTunes loads the most recent view on startup. Selecting anything other than iTunes Store or Ping in the left sidebar before closing iTunes means that the store will not load on startup. The store will then first load when you select iTunes Store or Ping.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3567",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: iPod headphone jack only driving one side - is there an easy way to fix this? My iPod is out of warranty (30gb older model) and recently one side of the audio dropped out.
If I manipulate the connector I can get both sides. The phones are not the issue - they work on all other devices.
The local Apple store was unhelpful.
Has anyone else had this issue and been able to fix it?
It appears just to be a mechanical connection in the jack.
it is the 5th gen ipod with video/color
A: I believe your iPod’s audio jack might be failing. If you really like your iPod and want to “repair it”, you can. Google for iPod 5th gen spare parts and you’ll find tons.
For exmaple: This one has a iPod 5g 30gb Audio Jack for $35. They also have the “right tools”. I have no experience with either, but I know people who has fixed iPhones and stuff like that by simply buying the pieces.
They claim:
Is the audio port / headphone jack of your 5th generation iPod Video only working out of one channel or the other? Are the plastics cracked or broken and your headphones held in place with duct tape? Order this part to replace your connector or open a repair order below and let our qualified technicians repair or replace your connector to get you back in stereo!
And they also offer a service where you can send the iPod and they will do it for you.
Of course, there might be others that do the same.
A: You can always order an actual new headphone jack replacement piece. That is how I fixed my first connector issue. However, the connection went back to only one side (maybe a year and a half later). I opened up the ipod and left it running with the headphones in the jack. The wires leaving the jack inside the ipod were the actual problem. I simply moved the wires until the audio played from both headphones and taped it into place. As of yet it is still working. It might be worth giving it a shot if the only other options are replacing the jack or the whole ipod.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3571",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: I uninstalled an app. How do I get it back?
Possible Duplicate:
How can I find out which apps I have already downloaded on my iPhone?
The knowledge base mentions that you get to reinstall the app for free... once you find it again on the store, which is no easy task. There are dozens of apps, all alike the one that was installed.
Is there a way to have a list of apps you have bought? At what point of the purchasing process does this dialog appear? Does a price tag appear for already purchased items? If so, does this message appear after you single tap on the price tag, or do you need to risk a double tap?
A: On iTunes, under iTunes Store > Account > Purchase History, you've got a list of all your iTunes Store purchases.
If you already bought an app, it still appears with the price on the Store. Last time I checked, I had to risk re-buying to see it was free since I already bought it.
Hope that helps!
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3572",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Keys not registering on the iPhone while typing fast, does it happen to you or just me? I've tried this on all major OS versions of the iPhone, and on an iPhone 3G and 4. It's been around for at least a year.
I've noticed that when I'm typing really fast (over 70 wpm) on a portrait keyboard, sometimes a key will not register as being touched. I think what's happening behind the scenes is that the fingers are moving so fast that it thinks that it's the same finger that moved from one side of the keyboard to the other in a dragging motion. (Normally when you drag a key, it won't send the first key you were on and will only send the last key you released on.)
This only happens when you are typing a word where the letters alternate between the left and right fingers such that both are touching the screen at the same time. One word that it happens on is the word with where the t does not get registered and you end up with wih.
Here's how it's supposed to work:
*
*You press your left thumb down on the t, the popup appears showing that you're going to send a t, a click sound plays. Note: the finger hasn't released the t yet, and the t hasn't been sent yet.
*You press your right thumb down on the h, the t is sent, the popup appears showing that you're going to send an h, the click sound plays.
*If you move your left thumb, around the keyboard, nothing happens since it's considered a dead touch (my terminology). You must release this finger before it will register again. When it is released, nothing happens. Again, this is correct behavior.
*When you release your right thumb on the h, the h is sent.
What I believe it is registering when the bug happens is the following:
*
*It detects a tap down on the t, plays a sound, shows the t popup, but doesn't send it yet.
*It detects that the finger has moved to the h, and shows the h popup.
*It detects that your finger was released, and it sends the h key.
Notice how in the second scenario the t key was never sent and that it thinks that it's one finger rather than two. Notice, also, that in the first scenario you hear two click sounds and in the second, you only hear one. This is actually the way I know when the bug happens, by listening for missed click sounds.
Although the example I gave with the word with may seem like it's much more likely since the t and h keys are very close by, this is actually not the case, and it frequently happens even with letters that are on opposite sides of the keyboard, such as n and d.
Note that it never happens when I type slow, since I believe touches are processed much more accurately when they aren't being sent fast. This bug doesn't happen too often (e.g. 1-5% of the time), but it's still annoying.
I'm wondering if this is a known bug or not. Has anyone else noticed this behavior? Before reporting it to Apple, it would help if I knew if other people have this issue too.
A: I don't know that I would classify this as a bug. In OS X, Apple has the Key Repeat Rate setting in the Keyboard preference pane which is a similar idea. Apple currently provides no way to adjust the speed at which key press (more correctly, release) events are registered globally in iOS.
The ability to type over 70 wpm on the portrait iPhone keyboard is something most of us are unable to achieve, so it's unlikely it would be addressed by Apple.
A: It used to happen to me all the time. You either have to use less area on your finger to tap the keys, or be more nimble in releasing.
A: I have this issue. I searched for this exact description to see if other people were experiencing this problem.
Using iPhone typing test - http://www.iphonetypingtest.com/test.html I got a best score of around 62 wpm. Some of that may be due to failed autocorrect (a gripe for another day).
I'm fairly sure I lift my thumbs from the screen clearly so I'm not actually dragging my thumb.
The biggest issue is when it doesn't register punctuation - a comma, say - and then I "spacebar" to get back to the alpha screen and it types numbers!
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3573",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: iPhone Case program It was my understanding that iphone case program closed on 30 September, however I downloaded the app for it anyway, and ordered a case just to see if it would work, and well it let me login (I had the wrong email address entered in so I never got the email telling it been dispatched) and select a case and well it arrived today.
So is the case program still on or is it just luck.
A: The free case program is valid for iPhone 4s that were purchased before or on September 30, 2010. The customer is required to apply within 30 days of his or her iPhone 4 purchase. This means you will have been able to order a free case after September 30, as long as you purchased your iPhone before or on September 30, and ordered the case within 30 days. You must have had good timing. For customers who purchased an iPhone 4 on September 30, October 30 should be the final day it is possible for them to order a free case via the case program app. However, Apple is still offering to provide users experiencing antenna issues with a free Bumper case if they call AppleCare.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3577",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: What is the data type of background images in a Pages template? I am trying to teach myself graphic design. The templates in Pages are really nice, but I want to be able to make my own. I was stripping apart a brochure template ("Elegant Brochure"), and found that most of everything on the page was a text box or an image. Once I removed all of those elements there was still a pattern in the background. When I clicked on it, I noticed "x's" on the corners that were immobile instead of the usual white boxes for manipulating images or text boxes. I clicked on the inspector and noticed that these were actually jpegs, but I don't know how to remove them, or in the case of wanting to make my own brochure layout, insert background pictures like that that will stay immobile.
A: After flipping through "iWork:The Missing Manual" and digging a little deeper, I discovered that those watermark style background images were immobile because they were "Locked." So I clicked "Unlock" in the Arrange menu, and then I could delete or manipulate those images.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3580",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Watch a video while it downloads in iTunes 10 Previously when downloading an iTunes U video I could double click it and the video would start playing while it is downloading. But now after updating to iTunes 10 it doesn't seem I can do that? Is it just me or have Apple gone backwards on this.
A: As of iTunes 12, you cannot watch a movie while it is downloading. This is a pretty recent change, but has been proven and is 100% reproducible. You have to wait for the movie or TV show to finish downloading. (Trying to play before it finishes downloading shows a black screen, until download is finished -- then play begins as usual). This is a real shame and makes no sense, given that an Apple TV can actually play while streaming... but, guess that's different software. (Netflix for the win!)
A: I'm not sure whether this was available for iTunes U items before, but it definitely isn't available now. As a compromise, you can stream an iTunes U item directly from its listing in the iTunes Store. And yes, you would still have to download it separately if you want to keep it.
A: You was previously able to watch while downloading, not to mention it takes over a couple hours to download even with top notch internet.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3582",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: Is there a good command-line ID3 tool for OS X? Anyone know of a command-line* ID3 tool, with support for ID3v2, that you can get working on Mac OS X with reasonable effort? It should support both reading and writing tags.
(* I want to be able to call it e.g. from some Python scripts, so a GUI tool won't do.)
The id3tool utility is otherwise good, but doesn't support ID3v2 (and thus doesn't play that well with iTunes). I had to compile it from source, but that was pretty straightforward on a Mac with Xcode & developer tools (including, notably, a C compiler). Anyway, I'd especially like something with similar command-line options as id3tool. Here's an example of tagging one file:
id3tool -t "Song Title" -r Artist -a "Album Name" -c 2 track-02.mp3
A: The python module Mutagen is shipped with the command-line ID3 tool named mid3v2 replacement for id3lib's.
From the usage documentation :
You can set the value for any ID3v2 frame by using '--' and then a frame ID.
For example:
mid3v2 --TIT3 "Monkey!" file.mp3
would set the "Subtitle/Description" frame to "Monkey!".
A: If you have Homebrew installed (highly recommended), you can just do:
brew install id3lib
This installs several id3 command-line tools, including id3tag, id3convert, id3cp and id3info. No need for python or perl scripting; just use regular shell commands.
Usage: id3tag [OPTIONS]... [FILES]...
-h --help Print help and exit
-V --version Print version and exit
-1 --v1tag Render only the id3v1 tag (default=off)
-2 --v2tag Render only the id3v2 tag (default=off)
-aSTRING --artist=STRING Set the artist information
-ASTRING --album=STRING Set the album title information
-sSTRING --song=STRING Set the title information
-cSTRING --comment=STRING Set the comment information
-CSTRING --desc=STRING Set the comment description
-ySTRING --year=STRING Set the year
-tSTRING --track=STRING Set the track number
-TSTRING --total=STRING Set the total number of tracks
-gSHORT --genre=SHORT Set the genre
-w --warning Turn on warnings (for debugging) (default=off)
-n --notice Turn on notices (for debugging) (default=off)
A: You may want to try id3v2. It's based on the id3lib that Huyz mentioned, but seems to be a better command line tool than those with id3lib. It easily dumps the ID3V2 tags from iTunes produced MP3s, but not iTunes produced M4A files (as with Apple Lossless).
If you need M4A files, another option is ffmpeg. Its ffprobe command line tool prints out metadata in the files and I believe you can write metadata via ffmpeg. It works with both MP3 and M4A files produced by iTunes. ffprobe may not show all metadata; mp4v2 is another good option.
All three programs are easily installed via Homebrew. Right now (Jan 2012) ffmpeg requires gcc to compile, so brew install --use-gcc ffmpeg.
A: Having had various 'abort trap' type issues with id3v2 I discovered eyeD3, which is a python module also existing as a command line tool. It seems to be more recently updated than some of the other programs mentioned above.
A: There is always AppleScript. I'm not a big fan of it, but iTunes is scriptable and you can manipulate all the mp3 tags from there. You can invoke Applescript from the command line using osascript.
A: This site: http://dougscripts.com/itunes/
has many good command line scripts and tools that layer on top of itunes to do things with your music library. Some of them may do what you want. Some of the tools are free and some are licensed.
A: since you're comfortable with cli and Python, I can recommend some Perl modules on CPAN. MP3::Tag, (as well as MP3::Tag::ID3v1 and ::ID3v2 and ::Utils), MP3::Info, MP3::ID3Lib are all available for reading and manipulating ID3 tags.
If you go to search.cpan.org and search for "MP3", you'll find a world* of options!
(* Where "world" is a small, limited set of options...)
A: This old thread at Mac OS X Hints looks like it might be a good place for you to start. It's from 2003, so I'm not sure if the tool they're talking about is still being developed. You also may have to compile it yourself.
A: There's an OS X compatible version of the id3lib library available here on GitHub. It claims to support both ID3v1 and ID3v2.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3585",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "54"
} |
Q: How can I write files to iPod's internal disk on Windows? when trying it I get the "can't do that" icon
How can I copy new photos to the iPod?
A: Got it
I used iPhoneBrowser and I could easily add photos to iPod Touch Library :)
But there is a problem, with this, I don't get the photos/videos on the PhotosApp on the iPod Touch :(
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3587",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: How to recover a deleted file on Mac OS X? We have tried Boomerang but it does not find the deleted file.
The file was deleted 3 days ago. I would think it is recoverable, but Boomerang does not show it.
Any help would be appreciated.
A: PhotoRec is the best tool I've found for recovering files. It does have some baffling limitations however, like the fact that it can't recover .dmg files. It's a command line program but still very easy to use. And it's free :)
This step-by-step guide on their wiki makes it even easier.
A: I use Data Rescue software for when there isn't a backup. It's not scammy, it does the job (very well IMO), and doesn't damage drives like some other tools will do.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3591",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: Can I print to an Airport-shared printer from Linux? from iOS? I'm considering buying an Airport Express for wifi in my house. I'll plug my printer into the USB port, so I can print from my Mac over wifi.
Two related questions:
*
*Will I be able to print from my Linux box, which is connected via ethernet to the same router as the Airport Express will be? (In the past, I've just plugged the USB cable into whichever machine, Mac on Linux, needed to print, so it certainly does support the printer.) My thinking is that, if I can reach it over the network, I can print to it, but it's not clear from the documentation if it allows printing from the ethernet port, or if it only uses that for WAN communication.
*Will I be able to print from iOS 4.2 from my iPod Touch? There's not much AirPrint documentation yet -- really just a press release. But it's not clear to me what it allows. It says you can print to any shared printer, but then says HP's new printers will be the first to support it. Which is it? Can I print to my HP printer that's shared over an old-fashioned Airport Express?
Thanks!
A: I found a document called the "AirPortExpressSetupGuide.pdf", which has an answer to the first part of my question:
All of the compatible computers on
the AirPort network, both wireless and wired, can print to it.
So there seems to be no restriction on where you can print from.
iOS seems to have removed the ability to print to any printers except the 2 new ones HP is selling, so that's out. Oh well.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3592",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Do I need a serial number to reinstall Mac OS X? I need to reinstall the OS but here's the issue: I don't have the original disc that came with the computer in question. However, I have a disc that came with another computer. Is it possible to install Mac OS X on the first computer using the disc I have? Do I need a serial number for this?
A: The only Mac OS X that does have serial numbers is Server versions 10.6 and earlier. They know are licensed for 10 or unlimited users.
The only problem you may run into is that if you are trying to do the reinstall with a system disk rather than a plain old Mac OS disk.
Say that other computer is a iMac and you are using the system disk from that one (one of those gray disks). The installers do have a little bit of code in them that check machine types, and may not let you install. Or, you may be able to install the OS, but none of the other applications (mainly iLife, etc).
This is not to hard to get around, since the main installer is what is checking - if you dig down on the disk, you can find the actual installer, which should work.
A: Mac OS X doesn’t have (nor had in the past) Serial Number or “Legit Purchase” mechanism. You can buy/borrow/lend/steal/copy a copy of Snow Leopard (or any other edition) and install it on any number of Machines.
Technically this is possible, however, according to the EULA and all the legal stuff, you can’t; in any case, the operating system doesn’t have any copy-protection mechanism.
EDIT: Bear in mind that a plain OS X Snow Leopard disk is not the same as a recovery disk. Although a recovery disk contains the OS, it is usually tied to a particular model, so if you try to recover a Macbook Pro with the iMac recovery disk, that might not work. (This has happened to me in the past trying to recover the other way around, a friend’s iMac’s HDD failed and he replaced it but couldn’t find his recovery disk. We tried to use my Macbook Pro’s disk but it wouldn’t work. The same with my Mac Pro.
Going to an Apple Store will possibly help in that case. In the end I found my Snow Leopard’s original disk and we used that to install his iMac.
A: There's no serial number to enter when installing Mac OS X.
A: No you don't need a serial number to do a re-install. Just your login information for your Apple account.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3596",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "17"
} |
Q: How to edit a text file on an iDisk using the iPhone? Are there any apps which allow me to edit text files on an iDisk? I don't need anything fancier than a notepad with the ability to open/save iDisk files.
I understand that Notes.app is basically the same thing, and it might be considered if nothing better is available.
A: Notes.app stores its messages on a mail server, basically as a specially formatted mail message.
If Apple ever brings Pages to the iPhone, then you may be able to do this. Im pretty sure with the latest update for Pages on the iPhone lets you open and modify items on your iDisk.
QuickOffice for the iPhone may let you edit docs, it says that it can save to your iDisk, so you may be able to open the files there and edit and save back to iDisk.
There are quite a few apps that do let you edit text files and save them to a Dropbox account, which (outside of mobile me) is much more popular. I have used a few of these, and would recommend an application called PlainText.
Finally, one of the nicest and most straightforward note apps for the iPhone I think is Simplenote. Its now free, and syncs notes to its server. You can then edit these online, on your mac, etc.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3599",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Equalizing volume of different songs in itunes I have enabled the option to equalize volume but it doesn't seem to do anything. Neither does it work for itunes, nor for the songs on my ipod. Is there some option/setting I am overlooking?
A: I use an external tool (MP3gain) for this. It works fine without touching the mp3 coding. The linked one is windows only, but there is also a Mac version, if I remember correctly.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3600",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Free tool to create a screencast to upload on hosting video platforms I would like to make a small video tutorial of a web application I deployed recently.
Could you recommend some free programm to record screencast easily, ready to upload to video hosting platforms like youtube?
A: For some reason, it was difficult to find this question, but I'm glad sentinel pointed out the solution I ended up using as well, which is QuickTime Player.
What I'd like to add is how to capture system audio as well. This is in Mountain Lion (10.8).
There's a free, open-source tool called SoundFlower which creates a virtual input/output audio device. After installation, go into ‘System Preferences’ -> ‘Sound’, and from the ‘Output’ tab select the ‘SoundFlower (2ch)’ device. (If your application allows it, you may also change the output device just in the application you're recording.)
Now, in QuickTime Player, open a new screen recording, and click the little down arrow on the right side of the window. From this drop-down menu, also select the ‘SoundFlower (2ch)’ device. Now record as normal.
The only problem with this solution is that you won't hear the application's sounds anymore, even though they're now being recorded. But there's a solution for that too: a multi-output that outputs to both your normal output and the virtual SoundFlower device.
Launch ‘Audio MIDI Setup’, either using Spotlight, or look in /Applications/Utilities/. Click the plus-button at the bottom left of the list of audio devices, and select ‘Create Multi-Output Device’. Now, with the new device selected, check the ‘Use’ boxes for your normal output device and the SoundFlower device.
On the left, expand the ‘Multi-Output Device’ and make sure there's a small clock icon next to your normal output. If not, right click it and select ‘Use this subdevice as the master clock’.
Now you can set this device as your output, either straight from Audio MIDI Setup by right clicking it and selecting ‘Use this device for sound output’, or by selecting it in ‘System Preferences’ -> ‘Sound’ from the ‘Output’ tab. You'll both hear and record system sound now.
A: This can be accomplished with QuickTime Player in Snow Leopard. From the File menu, select New Screen Recording. When you have finished recording, the video file will be opened for playback and from the Share menu, you can select YouTube....
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3602",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: How can I choose to unrar with the default application? I recently installed unrar for Mac Os X but i found it useless sometimes and bug-full.
So i uninstalled unrar. Now if i open a .rar file, another application (VLC) open it.
But i want the default unrar application to manage .rar files. How can i do that? If i select the "Open with" options and i look for that application in the applications folder i cant find it.
A: There's no default application to handle .rar file on Mac OS X.
You might want to try The Unarchiver. It can open many format besides rar files.
Then once you installed it, open its preferences and select all the file format you want him to manage.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3606",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: Is there a way to snooze the reminder for a calendar event on iPhone? Is it possible to snooze a reminder for a calendar event when the reminder shows up? I have my calendar set up through an exchange server and would like a snooze feature so I can be reminded of the event 2 or 4 hours after the original notification. If this is not possible is there a good app for recurring events with push notification?
A: This is not supported by the default calendar app at the moment. An app called Calendar Alarm from the App Store might be what you're looking for. Its listed features include:
*
*Works seamlessly together with all
iPhone supported calendars (Google
Calendar, CalDAV, Outlook, Exchange,
iCal).
*Snooze function with intervals of your choice.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3608",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: Bluetooth Not Available? Mac OS X 10.6.4, MacBook Pro, Apple Magic Trackpad.
The trackpad is unresponsive. Right-clicking on the Bluetooth icon in the menu bar shows me gray text that says "Bluetooth not available".
I don't see a system preference item in which to fight with this, but I don't see anything relevant.
A: According to this article, resetting the System Management Controller might to the trick.
Here's how to Reset the SMC on Apple's support site.
A: Under System Preferences there should be a bluetooth preference pane. Make sure it's set to 'on' and 'discoverable'.
A: In terminal, also remove the com.apple.driver.AppleBluetoothMultitouch.trackpad.plist and com.apple.driver.AppleBluetoothMultitouch.mouse.plist files from ~/Library/Preferences.
cd ~/Library/Preferences
rm com.apple.driver.AppleBluetoothMultitouch.mouse.plist
rm com.apple.driver.AppleBluetoothMultitouch.trackpad.plist
Then restart.
That fixed it for me.
A: Resetting the NVRAM as described here solved the issue for me:
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204063
A: Had this problem since 2015 and I have tried just about everything suggested by this thread similar ones. The only solution I have come across that works 100% for me is by going to System Preferences -> General -> unchecking Allow Handoff between this Mac and your iCloud devices
It has been a month of observing this problem that occured daily and never had an issue afterwards. Hope this might help some of you out there.
A: I fixed it by
*
*shutting down the machine
*removing battery
*keep power button pressed for 10 sec
*start machine again
A: I have fixed by the same method as above. shut down, remove battery, hold down power button for 10 seconds, replace battery and re-start
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3610",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Is this crash normal? My Snow Leopard crashed while I was switching from Itunes to the browser.
Basically everything got stuck and a the current song second started to run in loop.
Is that normal ? Can it happen very rarely ? Or should I worry ?
thanks
A: You should worry if it happens to you periodically. If it happened only once, my guess is one of the background process Mac OS X runs from time to time got stuck for a moment.
BTW, when you say "crash", did you have to reboot your computer? Or did it just got stuck for a period of time?
Anyway, if it crashed, the best you could do is send the crash report to Apple when prompted and check the Usual Suspects:
*
*Background processes => System Preferences > Account > Login Items (remove the one you don't need.
*Check how much free space you have left and start removing the files you don't need
*Maybe try to reindex your hard drive
A: This is definitely not normal.
I started having this problem after I installed "Lion". It happens often, more than several times a day - it freezes, and the only solution is to push the turn off button, turn off the computer, and turn it on again.
I did many researches on this issue, also went to the "Apple" store's "Genius" bar where they reinstalled my operating system which did not help at all. They also checked my hardware and said that everything is okay.
In my opinion, these might be "Lion's" issues, because lots of people have the same problem, and the problem mainly occurred after the "Lion" install. However, it seems that "Apple" does not even try to fix this issue, or even if they do, they are doing it poorly.
Moreover, you might find this useful:
"Start up Issues/ Slow speed issues/ coloured beach ball:- (Regular
House keeping stuff to clean the computer)
*
*Reset the SMC (Reset System Management Controller)
For iMacs:- Kindly turn off the computer.
Remove the power chord from the main plug.
Press the Power button (at the back of the iMac for 5 seconds).
Reconnect the power cable to the socket and then turn it back on.
For laptops (mac book, mac book air, mac book pro)
*
*Press "left Shift", "left Control", "left Alt" and "Power button' for 5-10 seconds, while the computer is turned off.
*Do a PRAM Reset
(As soon as you start the computer, press and hold the 4 KEY
COMBINATION till you hear 3 successive starting chymes. The keys are
" COMMAND" "ALT" "P" and "R")
*
*Do a Safe Boot As soon as you start the computer, press and hold the "Shift key" for 4-5 minutes, till you see a blue screen. (login
window)
*
*Trash the caches from Home Folder/ Library/ Caches
*Trash the caches from Mac HD/Lib/Caches
*Trash the start up items from Mac HD/Library/Startup items
-Trash the updates from Mac HD/Library/Updates
*Delete the Login items from System Pref/Accounts/Login Items
*Trash Launch Daemons from Home Folder/Library
*Trash Launch Agents from Home Folder/Library
*Reset safari, empty caches, delete cookies,
-Restart the Computer"
P.S.: forum to discuss about this issue: https://discussions.apple.com/thread/2768351
I hope this helps.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3613",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Is there any known problem of using SIMBL? As the title, is there any known problem of installing SIMBL on my Mac? For example performance degradation, security problem, or anything else.
A: Your question is too generic if anything. SIMBL have been the cause of past problems, specially when Snow Leopard was out; the infamous “blue screen of death” that made Windows very famous, affected OS X for a little bit on some machines that had “hacks” like SIMBL (But it was usually caused by APE if I am not mistaken)
With that said, it’s possibly “impossible” to measure if there’s any performance degradation or “anything else”.
I’ve used SIMBL for a few years and I have no idea if I had run into issues that wouldn’t have been caused should I not have it, however, for the most part it performs ok. There are a lot of plugins already written, one of them being the excellent Total Finder by BinaryRage. I’d say that if there’s a problem with SIMBL, it would be most of the times, caused by a bad plugin that is doing “more than it should”.
With that said, I doubt Apple likes it when it’s time to diagnose a problem. ;)
When you create a Plug-in using SIMBL, there are a few recommendations that a lot of developers do not follow and that is what usually causes the problem. Most notably is the Version Checking. You are “entitled” to make sure that the version of the application you’re going to “hack”, is compatible with whatever you’re going to do. A lot of developers never did this in the past and the results were headaches for everybody.
Suppose you’re patching Safari 1.0. A software update comes and it’s now Safari 1.1 and your plug-in doesn’t work. You shouldn’t try to patch that version of Safari until you fix your plugin. Failure to perform that check caused innumerable failures and rage wars :)
You can try it and if you detect issues, removing SIMBL later is pretty simple.
But after a few long years of having it, I can tell you that it’s relatively safe; with that in mind, understand that SIMBL allows other applications to “inject” code into other Cocoa applications. A malicious user could attempt to cause damage though it.
You should keep an eye in the SIMBL Bug List to make sure you don’t come across something that affects you and -of course- use known plug-ins and not something that came from “p0rn.com”. ;)
Now if you’re super worried about all you install and do, then stay away from it. :)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3616",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Do Macs store a serial number on the disk? About a year ago, I sold my old MacBook Pro. Last week I got a call from the buyer who said that it had been stolen and he didn't have the serial number — and did I have it?
I haven't been able to find it anywhere. It's not registered under my Apple ID (not sure it ever was). It was originally purchased from Amazon, and they don't put serial numbers on their receipts. I'm still looking for the original box.
OTOH, I do still have a disk image that I made of the drive immediately before I reformatted it, prior to the sale.
Is the serial number stored anywhere on that disk image?
What I've tried:
*
*Searching my current MBP for my current serial number
I figured that if I could find a file with the current serial number, the old disk image might have that same file with the old number.
*Searching for old system profiler reports
Sadly, I couldn't find one.
Anyone have any other ideas?
A: Apparently the only ways to find out a Mac's serial number (if you don't have the Mac physically present) are:
When you had the Mac, you:
*
*Registered it with Apple (check your support profile at apple.com)
*Ran and saved a copy of System Profiler's output
Without the Mac:
*
*Have a sales receipt from a retailer that puts the serial number on their receipts
*Purchased it from a retailer that keeps track of serial numbers
*Find the box the Mac came in
Thankfully, after I posted this question, the buyer was able to find the original box, which gave him the serial number.
But the actual answer to the question is: No, Macs do not normally store their serial number in a disk file.
A: The computer’s “Serial Number” is not stored in the software, but the hardware as far as I can remember (because there’s a method in the Cocoa SDK to read it).
You can also ask the OS to tell you the Serial Number by going to /Applications/Utilities/Terminal.app and executing:
ioreg -l | grep IOPlatformSerialNumber
This value, is stored in some form of nonvolatile memory on the motherboard, because you can wipe your hard drive completely clean, and the results will always be the same, until you have to change your board.
All that said, the vendor should have the serial number of the machine it sold, and Apple will know that the serial number went to X vendor. They have a decent control about that as far as I know.
So if you have the receipt from Amazon, then you can try contacting them about the issue.
A: Hold your breath... MACs actually DO store serial number on the hard drive. After finding MAC address from my backup, I proceeded further and found the serial number itself in the same WirelessDiagnostics archive.
Inside the archive there is a wifi-BPpiyL.log file which should contain the following lines:
<airportd[30]> _initSystemGlobals: Model name = <your model name>
<airportd[30]> _initSystemGlobals: Model number = <your model number>
<airportd[30]> _initSystemGlobals: Serial number = **<your serial number>**
I checked in Apple.com, and that was a valid S/N which showed the legitimate information about my stolen MacBook. Granted I've performed wireless diagnostics in the past and that's where these files came from, but it proves that if you have some kind of a backup, you have the chance in finding your S/N in it.
A: Well, I had my Mac stolen and could not find the Serial No in the backup. The Mac used to be registered in my Apple ID, but is not any more. However, it still is in "Find My Mac", where I locked it.
Apple support wouldn't give me the serial number, saying they don't have it. However, when the police asked them which computers were tied to my Apple ID, they gave out the serial numbers.
So it seems to me that Apple does still have them, but is more cooperative with law enforcement than customers.
A: I know this is old, but I'm sure lots of people are being redirected here from Google.
OS X may not have the serial number of it's device stored anywhere, but chances are you can find your MAC address, which, just like the serial number, uniquely identifies your machine. One example where the MAC is being stored in OS X would be wireless_diagnostics-ilTACd.log which is located inside Wireless diagnostics archive (if exists).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3617",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "11"
} |
Q: Why won't Netflix play videos on my iPad? Go to watch any video instantly. Click on play video. It'll say that it's preparing to load. Then it switches to the video screen for half a second, then back to the preparing to load screen, then dumps me back to the browsing for instant videos screen. So the video never played at all.
Any idea on how to fix this?
A: I managed to resolve this by changing my DNS server to Google's 8.8.8.8. Not ideal, but it worked. Still, any ideas why this is happening?
A: This happened to me when I upgraded my router to dd-wrt firmware. If you did this, then you have two choices.
*
*Change your ipod (ipad) DNS settings to Google as suggested above with 8.8.8.8 or
*Disable dnsmasq for both DHCP and DNS. This could cause you to be vulnerable to a rebind attack. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DNS_rebinding
Here is a post on the dd-wrt forum
http://www.dd-wrt.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=481907
Good luck
A: Development versions of DD-WRT now include an option to disable the dns-rebind protection in DNSMasq. This solves the problem. OpenWRT has the same problem as DD-WRT, since it uses the same DNSMasq package.
In OpenWRT, you can edit the /etc/ppp/options.pptpd file and remove the stop-dns-rebind line, or just comment it out with a #.
Note that while you will still be vulnerable to a dns-rebind attack, so are almost every home and small-office router on the planet, so you will be in good company! :)
A: I haven't seen this issue myself, but perhaps the iPad app is behaving strangely under 4.2.1 in regards to multi-tasking? Try "killing" the app in the recently used apps menu, and see if that fixes it.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3618",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Is there a good application for Mac to manage subscriptions billings? Is there a good software for mac to manage subscriptions billings ?
I need to be payed regularly by my customers.
I need warnings service sending emails to them and me.
And I need to automize the payment process.
A: It’s not 100% clear what is the meaning of “automatize the payment process” but a very popular Mac application for billings is called… Billings.
There are a few “comparison” reviews out there and you will not have a hard time finding there. Some are more extense (and outdated) and others are short and concise. There are also some round-ups about invoicing apps (which are usually married with billings apps).
I personally use GrandTotal ($) because I needed an Invoicing app for my little company. You can try most if not all of the applications for a few days before deciding which one is for you (or usually which one is “the closest” to what you want, because they all have stuff you don’t need and lack something you wish they had…).
A: Probably the best solution would be something online like toggle.com.
Personally, I would say your best bet, however, would be MarketCircle Billings. It's an nice app that has an iPhone companion. It's about $40 online and you can get it from the Mac App Store.
A: I use Billings reoccurring invoice feature, but it doesn't integrate payment solutions.
Some Googling found these two links:
http://www.the10most.com/entrepreneurs/10-easy-recurring-billing-solutions.html
http://web.appstorm.net/roundups/15-great-apps-for-your-business-subscription-needs/
JBilling, though complex, could run locally on Apache on your Mac if you so desired, or hosted elsewhere and seems that is has lots of cool features.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3620",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: CheckPoint VPN for Mac OS X Has anybody been able to use a VPN connection to CheckPoint from a Mac?
My test until now:
*
*Tried the standard Html page to login, no success because the java applet cannot be loaded
*Downloaded a full featured Checkpoint client, no success (connection not made)
*Tried IPSecuritas, same results
Until now the most interesting result were installing the SNX client from CheckPoint and then creating a .snxrc profile, after that snx is able to connect like so
snx
Check Point's Mac SNX
build 800005012
Please enter your password:
SNX - connected.
Session parameters:
===================
Office Mode IP : 192.168.1.173
DNS Server : 172.16.0.190
Secondary DNS Server: 172.16.0.191
Timeout : 12 hours
Problem is that at this point it seems to connect (because IP address are correct and also because if I provide a wrong password it give me the correct unsuccesful logon message) but if I do a ifconfig I see that the interface created from Checkpoint do not have an IP address and also if I try to add one using ifconfig I'm not able to ping any machine on the remote network
ifconfig en7
en7: flags=8862<BROADCAST,SMART,RUNNING,SIMPLEX,MULTICAST> mtu 1350
ether 54:55:43:44:52:00
Check Point Virtual Network Adapter
Any idea about I can assign a proper IP address to the interface so that I can use the remote network?
Regards
Massimo
A: I was able to run the client making some modification to the wireless router configuration:
*
*The DHCP server now gives addresses that start with 192.168.2 instead of the old 192.168.1
*The subnet mask of the local IP address is now 255.255.0.0
*You run OSX in 32 bit mode keeping the 3 key pressed during boot
After these changes the subsequent call to SNX (configured as described above) was able to associate the proper IP address (that in my configuration was 192.168.1.33, last number changes from connection to connection) to the en7 interface created by SNX and so I've a valid IP address for the router on the 192.168.2 network and one for the office on the 192.168.1 network.
I'm still convinced that something can be done using also the ifconfig command to properly assign IP address, but for now having a connection it's enough for me, I'm posting the result of ifconfig if someone can describe me how to proceed:
en7: flags=8863<UP,BROADCAST,SMART,RUNNING,SIMPLEX,MULTICAST> mtu 1350
ether 54:55:43:44:52:00
inet 192.168.1.33 netmask 0xffffff00 broadcast 192.168.1.255
Check Point Virtual Network Adapter
See also http://www.phillo.it/?p=13
Regards
Massimo
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3624",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: MacBook keyboard mod? Is it possible to mod the MacBook keyboard to be backlit? Is there any website or business that can help or would do it for me?
A: you can always try to find yourself from this FlickR Photos and set it up :)
Flickr SET
Flickr SET SlideShow
How I used the backlighting from a macbook air, to give my white macbook a backlit keyboard.
You couldn't just change the whole keyboard, they're not compatible, but the lighting sheet fits.
Then you have to get nearly 16 volts from a step-up-converter to power the 5 white LEDs and add some electronics for switching it on/off and regulate the keyboard-brightness by the screen-brightness.
If you wanna have a backlit keyboard and think about doing it on your own: forget it and buy a new macbook with integrated backlight.
You would almost destroy your macbook in the process...
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3625",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Why does iTunes ask me to verify an email account that's already verified? I recently changed my email address that I use as my apple ID to log in to itunes. So I got an email to verify it by clicking on a link, which I did.
And it seems to have worked, sort of: on my ipad and iphone, I'm in business, and can buy apps, etc.
But on my mac, when I try to login to the store in itunes, I get this:
When I click ok, it takes me to the verification page, but the page seems to imply that I both need to verify my address and that it's already verified:
Any ideas? I'm not sure I can go much longer without Ke$ha's latest.
A: Well, I haven't figured out what was causing the problem, but did find a way to solve it:
*
*Go to the my account page for your Apple ID Account and click "Change Account Information".
*Change your email address from the one you want to use to any other address (to be safe, it's probably preferable to use one you can access, but it's not crucial, as long as you can remember it easily, because you're going to change it right back.
*Once it confirms that it's changed it, go right back in and change it back to the one you started with.
This will essentially "clear" the previous verification for the address, eliminating the disconnect where itunes wants you to verify, but you can't, because all the other apple clients know that you already have. You'll get a fresh verification email, and (at least in my case) you'll be back in business.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3627",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Is decreasing speaker volume of my iMac a Hardware Problem My iMac is just less than 1 year old. I have ran the diagnostic that came with Apple Care and found no problem. Recently, I notice that the max speaker volume of my iMac decreased after I switch on the machine on for quite some time. If I leave the iMac off a few days, the volume will sort of reset again but it is not as loud as before. I believe this problem has nothing to do will software settings in OSX as I have tried all those settings. Any recommendation, send the iMac back to Apple?
A: I recommend you make sure it’s not a perception issue and that the sound you’re using to test the volume is always the same.
Perhaps making a short “video” with another device of both moments (when it’s high and when it’s not), might help you make sure that this is not a crazy thing on your part. If the camera is left in the same place and the conditions are more or less the same, you should be able to clearly hear both videos and see a volume difference.
If you are sure that the volume tends to “go down” and is not a software issue, then take the machine to Apple as soon as possible, because I’ve never heard of decreasing speaker volumes. :)
A: I've seen the same thing on my MacBook. Unfortunately it's getting old and certainly out of warranty so it'd probably cost more to repair it than to just buy a new one (which would be faster/thinner, to boot).
I assume it's a hardware issue, because I can't imagine this being caused by software. I figure maybe somebody dropped a crumb in the keyboard and it landed in just the right (or wrong) place.
If you have a spare bootable hard disk, you could try booting from that. Otherwise, yeah, have Apple take a look (er, listen) at it.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3631",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Quick Look won't play sound of .avi files When I want to use Quick Look to quickly check if an .avi file is corrupt, or if the quality is alright, it does not play the sound anymore.
Is there a way to enhance Quick Look with "proper" divx capabilities, to prevent mishaps like this?
On a related note: I would enjoy .mkv-support, too, if anyone has an idea how to integrate that.
EDIT:
jmlumpkin got it right, Perian solved the problem. I can now quickcheck .avi files again, properly.
Thank you for the quick answer, I would upvote, but it says I need 15 rep first :/
A: Quick Look won't let you do this. Mainly because the core audio/video stuff behind quicktime doesn't support it.
The easiest way to do this would honestly be to use VLC. This supports both file types you mention.
The other way is to check out Perian, which gives you a bunch of extra codecs.
Personally, I would try the VLC way first. You won't be able to view these items with quickview or preview.app, but VLC handles pretty much any file type I have ever thrown at it.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3637",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: iPad calendar only sees 2 of 4 GMail calendars, what have I configured wrong? I have 4 calendars in my GMail Calendar account, two of these have been imported, they are shared by other people.
Basically, I have this:
*
*My personal calendar
*Week numbers for norway (since GMail Calendar doesn't show week numbers)
*One imported from an organization I have some work for
*One with TV Shows I follow every week
When I connect my GMail account on my iPad, the first, and the third, is shown, but not the second, nor the fourth. I'd like the fourth as well on my iPad.
I've looked through the configuration for all the calendars on my GMail account, but I can't see anything that differs from the one that is listed, and the one that isn't.
What else should I look at?
A: You can set up a CalDAV account to sync all your Google calendars. The following information is provided by Google and can be found here:
To sync with your device, follow these steps:
*
*Open the Settings application on your device's home screen.
*Open Mail, Contacts, Calendars.
*Select Add Account...
*Select Other.
*Select Add CalDAV Account.
*Enter your account information:
*
*In the Server field, enter [ google.com ]
*In the Username field, enter your full Google Account or Google Apps email address.
*In the Password field, enter your Google Account or Google Apps password.
*In the Description field, enter the name you'd like to appear on the account.
*Select Next at the top of your screen.
After you've completed setup, open the Calendar app on your device and syncing will automatically begin.
By default only your primary calendar will be synced to your device. You can sync additional calendars by visiting the following page from any web browser:
*
*https://www.google.com/calendar/iphoneselect
(Google Apps users can go to https://www.google.com/calendar/hosted/your_domain/iphoneselect, replacing 'your_domain' with your actual domain name.)
Select the calendars you'd like to sync, and click Save. The selected calendars will display on your device at the time of the next sync.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3638",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Keeping music only on iDevice and not in the iTunes Library it syncs with Is it possible to sync music onto the iPhone and then delete it from the iTunes Library to save hard drive space, without having it be automatically removed in a later sync?
A: Yes. When you have the device plugged in, click on its icon in the navigation bar on the right, then in the main part of the window turn on manual management for the various types of content as shown across the top of the window.
It is, however, a very good idea to have some kind of a back up of your iDevice's content somewhere in case something bad happens with the device. External Firewire and USB hard drives can be had very extremely cheap.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3640",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: iPhone - "Edit User Dictionary" is missing Initially I had 5 keyboards
English
Spanish
Emoji
Japanese (Ten Key)
Japanese (Romaji)
I added a couple words to my User Dictionary. Later I realized that I do not use the two Japanese ones very much, so I removed them. After doing that, the "Edit User Dictionary..." option completely disappeared from my Keyboard Settings menu. When I put Japanese (Romaji) back on, the option reappears.
I tried deleting the few words I had entered and removing the unwanted keyboard again, still the option does not appear. I am thinking the dictionary database may have been built to correspond only with the keyboards I had when I initially edited the dictionary, and now it won't rebuild or something.
Anyone else seen this?
Thanks!
Thomas
A: Womp womp...that was easy. Maybe next time, I'll read my search results BEFORE hitting submit on SE sites. Well here is the answer. Hope this helps someone. Apparently, "Edit User Dictionary" is only enabled for certain languages...with English not being one? ::shrugs:: whatever.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3642",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Open iTunes when iPhone is connected on a Mac I remember that during the installation of iTunes (while I was upgrading it on my Mac) it asked if I want to install an application so that iTunes can be opened when my iPhone is connected. Initially I didn't want this so I answered "No". Now I want this behavior, but have no idea where that option is.
How can I get iTunes to start up when my iPhone is connected?
I tried disabling/enabling the option "Open iTunes when this iPhone is connected" in my iPhone's Summary page on iTunes, but it doesn't help. I believe it needs that application it wanted to install initally.
The option to disable auto sync was enabled in the settings, but now I disabled it.
A: Go to System Preferences → Accounts, and view your Login Items. One of them should be
iTunesHelper.
If iTunesHelper is missing from Login Items, here's how to add it:
iTunesHelper is located inside the iTunes.app bundle, at
/Applications/iTunes.app/Contents/Resources/iTunesHelper.app/
*
*Navigate into the iTunes.app package; in Finder, Right-click iTunes.app and select Show Packaged Content to get inside it. (Or use Terminal to navigate and then open Finder with open .)
*Locate iTunesHelper.app, and drag it to the Login Items pane.
*Logout or even restart may be required for changes to take effect.
Whew, that was weird. I'm glad I got it added back too. :-)
(Alternatively you could reinstall iTunes, but the above is much quicker and easier.)
These forum threads were helpful:
*
*How to prevent iTunes from opening when iPhone connected
*iTunesHelper is gone in login items...
A: You could try turing the option on in the summary panel when you have your iphone selected under devices. Otherwise uninstall and reinstall probably will work. On windows you might have a registry entry but I have not dug around in there looking for itunes prefs.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3644",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: VMware: Shared folders on mac not updated on the virtual machine I'm using vmware on mac to emulate Ubuntu.
When I change shared folders files on OSX I don't see the changes (automatically updated) in Ubuntu...
When I added the folder, everything was visible and it perfectly worked, but when I edited some files, these become red in the Ubuntu terminal, and I cannot see the new versions of them (even if I restart Ubuntu, I guess the only way is to remove and add the shared folder again).
Any help ?
A: I've solved. The problem was that I was using symbolic links applied to the files instead of the parent folder.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3646",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: refresh Preview from command line I have a workflow (LaTeX editing in Emacs) which produces PDFs that I then examine in Preview. Preview is smart enough to re-load the PDF when it changes, but it only does so when I click on the application and bring it to the foreground.
Is there a way to tell Preview to re-load the document (and stay in the background) using the command line?
Edit: To follow up, I'm perfectly happy to do a little AppleScript hacking or whatever (I've never used AppleScript, but it can't be too hard).
A: No simple solution that I can think of.
*
*You can switch to using Skim, or another PDF previewer that supports the behavior you seek.
*You can "open file.pdf" to refresh and bring Preview to the foreground, and then another command to bring your editor or terminal in front of it (open file.pdf; open -a Terminal.app).
A: If you want to use Applescript to bring Preview to the front, then all you need is this line:
tell application "Preview" to activate
You could also use the osascript command in the command line to run that script as well. There are specific things to look out for (escaping quotes and handling multiple lines). Examples on its exact use abound and it has its own man page.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3650",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "16"
} |
Q: What's a good Mac equivalent of WinMerge? WinMerge is an excellent and very powerful file merging tool, but as the name would imply, it's Windows only. What's a good equivalent on the Mac?
A: A modern, powerful, but paid (currently Mar-2013 $69.99) file merging application for OS X is Kaleidoscope. It handles folders, files, and even images. Ad copy from the page:
Compare text in Blocks, Fluid and Unified layouts in both Two-Way and Three-Way modes. Quickly navigate and search through the most readable diff you've ever seen.
A: Araxis Merge (http://www.araxis.com/merge_mac/index.html) is the gold standard in this area and has a similar cost (what is the weight of bits?). There are Windows and Mac versions, and it is truly excellent if you find yourself spending a lot of time doing multiway diffs and merges (more common in these days of distributed version control systems).
The pricing starts (as of Sept 2011) at $129.
A: You can use FileMerge, Apple's diff solution. It's free and it comes with every Mac OS X install.
The only downside is that you have to install the Developer Tools. You can find them on your DVD install that came when you bought your Mac (Snow Leopard or earlier). You can also get the developer tools from the App Store if your version of the OS supports that.
Then, you can find it at /Developer/Applications/Utilities/FileMerge.app
A: I've found the following applications:
*
*FileMerge (opendiff)
It's no longer bundled with Xcode Command Line Tools, you must install Xcode from either the App Store or the Apple Developer Website.
*DiffMerge
*Pretty Diff
Open sourced beautifier and language aware code comparison tool for many languages.
*Meld
Can be installed using Homebrew via command: brew install meld
*TkDiff
Can be installed using Homebrew via command: brew install tkdiff
*TextWrangler
*VisualDiffer
Available on the App Store
*Kaleidoscope
Commercial with free trial.
*Araxis Merge
Commercial with free trial.
*KDiff3
No longer in Homebrew, it has not been developed/updated since 2014.
See also:
*
*Comparison of file comparison tools at Wikipedia
for the full list.
*What file comparison tool can I use under OS X?
*Portable, free, cross-platform, GUI-based prose-friendly plain-text diff and merge tool?
*Code compare and merge tool for Mac OSX
A: Maybe you will find the app SourceTree interesting: http://www.sourcetreeapp.com/ SourceTree is a free Mac client for Git and Mercurial version control systems. Therefor it isn't a general purpose diff or merge tool but it is worth mentioning it.
A: There's an application called SemanticMerge for Mac.
SemanticMerge, as the name says :-), is a tool able to merge based on code structure instead of blocks of text. It basically means it parses the code first and then merges based on methods, classes and so on, so it is quite refactor friendly since it can match methods/functions even when they've been moved to different locations within the file.
At the time of writing this, Semantic supports .NET, C, Java, C++ and JavaScript.
A: Beyond Compare is now in beta for the Mac. It's the best diff/merge program I’ve used on Windows and is definitely worth checking out.
http://www.scootersoftware.com/support.php?zz=kb_mac
A: Perforce, a source control application, has a free * diff and merge tool that is cross platform and works fine on my mac. It's called P4Merge.
http://www.perforce.com/product/components/perforce-visual-merge-and-diff-tools
It presents file-diffs very nicely and handles three-way merges like a champ. As a long-time WinMerge user I was very happy with it. Its use of little gem-like icons in a 3-way merge takes some getting used to. One icon is for my change, one for their's, and one for the common ancestor. Once you get that straight it was very helpful.
* it was free, but may now be subject to Perforce's licensing. Perforce in-general is restricted to a certain number of users and/or files unless you buy it. However, these restrictions only make sense when using their server-side software. These client-only tools can't really be licensed like that. I'll update if I ever hear back from the company on this matter.
A: Agree with the recommendation for FileMerge.app. You also have the free, cross-platform DiffMerge program, but I like FileMerge better.
A: Stumbled upon this thread today and thought I'd contribute this new cross-platform OSS diff tool that supports file and directory comparision. It is a good alternative to WinMerge for Mac.
http://meldmerge.org/
Meld is a visual diff and merge tool targeted at developers. Meld helps you compare files, directories, and version controlled projects. It provides two- and three-way comparison of both files and directories, and has support for many popular version control systems.
Meld helps you review code changes and understand patches. It might even help you to figure out what is going on in that merge you keep avoiding.
A: I use VisualDiffer.
It's not as good as WinMerge, but pretty close and very cheap (only $34.99 at the moment!). It is promising.
Here's a screenshot.
A: I am a Mac user attached to elegance and esthetics as a significant factor in productivity for cognitive reasons. A fully native and elegant Human Interface is for me of paramount importance.
I tried many contenders (Araxis, P4Merge and many others). I purchased several. I loved Changes for a long while. Now my favorite is Kaleidoscope. It provides 3-way merge, it can compare images in a smart way, it has a slick and elegant interface.
When an application claims to be cross-platform, that rings an alarm bell. More often than not, it means an ugly, non-native interface. Having to cringe when working is not my idea of having fun at work.
A: Meld is a good option..
steps to install meld on Mac :
*
*Install MacPorts:
Installation information can be found in : MacPort installation
Before installing MacPort, you have to install Xcode and the Xcode Command Line Tools if your computer doesn't have them.
*Open your terminal and execute following commands
i) Installing rarian :
"sudo port install rarian"
II) Installing meld :
"sued port install meld"
*Configure the dbus service to start at boot
I) sudo launchctl load -w /Library/LaunchDaemons/org.freedesktop.dbus-system.plist
II) launchctl load -w /Library/LaunchAgents/org.freedesktop.dbus-session.plistdf
*Add LC_ALL variable to the .bash_profile file at your /home directory
export LC_ALL=en_US
*Type meld command in the terminal and the application will be launched for you.
getting-meld-work-on-mac-os-x
A: Changes - http://connectedflow.com/changes/
A: Seems like there were plans to make WinMerge 3 available for Mac too:
*
*http://forums.winmerge.org/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=231
*https://bitbucket.org/grimmdp/winmerge/issue/4/mac-os-x-use-winmerge-in-menu
I haven't made my choice for Mac. But on Windows I use WinMerge, on Linux Meld (which is also available for Mac), currently using twdiff, I already tried FileMerge.app, and going to try DiffMerge.
A note about Meld:
Meld does work on OS X and Windows, but there are no all-in-one packages for those systems available at the moment. On OS X, Meld is available from MacPorts or Fink.
A: My favorite free solution for merging the contents of files is KDiff3. KDiff3 can do two-way and three-way merges, has a decent GUI and has some pretty powerful features to assist with the merge.
My favorite non-free, but inexpensive ($30-ish) solution for merging the contents of files is Beyond Compare 3. Yes, Beyond Compare 3 is only available as a native Windows or Linux app, but I run it in WiNE via the easy to use Wineskin Winery app.
When it comes to merging the content of directories both KDiff3 and Beyond Compare 3 can do it, but IMO KDiff3 is not very usable in this regard. Fortunately Beyond Compare 3 excels at directory merges, even on OS X.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3653",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "76"
} |
Q: My iPod touch takes gigantic videos; how come it takes such tiny photos? Is there any way to take higher resolution pictures with it? The videos are massive!
A: No, you can't currently.
Im assuming this is a 4th gen iPod Touch - since its the only one with a camera. It can do 720p videos, but it looks like they also limited the picture size to be about the same. This was a large complaint when the new Touch was announced, since the iPhone now has a 5mp camera.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3657",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Is there a simple way to compare apps in my iTunes library with those actually installed on my iPhone? Thanks to the appshopper.com RSS feeds, I've downloaded a lot of free apps: some good, many forgettable. Is there a simple way to see a list of uninstalled iPhone apps so I can re-evaluate and delete a lot of the duds?
I've seen programs that scan my iTunes library for apps (though some of them miss a lot of results), and IIRC it's possible to read an iTunes-managed iPhone backup to see which apps are installed there.
So, are there any existing utilities that do this? Failing that, I'll upvote/accept an answer that points me in the right direction to create such a utility myself.
A: Two possible answers...
Assuming you've not actively deleted them from iTunes as well as from your iPhone...
*
*Upgrade to iTunes 10.x if you haven't already
*Plug your iPhone into your Mac, open iTunes, sync it.
*Click on the iPhone in the side bar and go to the Apps tab
You'll see that some apps are checked and others are not. This is an indicator of whether or not they're installed on the device.
Pretty sure this got introduced in iTunes 10.x (hence the first step)
Assuming you don't delete your old emails... (e.g. Archive in GMail)
The iTunes store should have emailed you summaries of the apps you've purchased (even the free ones) shortly after their 'purchase', so, if you have an email account where you've kept those emails, you could search through them to get a list of each app you've purchased from the iTunes store.
A: drfrogsplat hit the nail on the head. Some other things of note are:
*
*If an App in is iTunes but not on your iPhone, you can delete it from there without ever having to bother your iPhone. As far as the iPhone is concerned, that app already doesn't exist.
*If an App is synced to your iPhone, if you delete it from either one when not connected for syncing, then it will be copied back across during the next sync. I've had a lot of apps "come back from the dead" in this fashion. If you want to delete apps that are synced the easiest way to be rid of them for good is to connect the iPhone to iTunes and then delete it from the App tab, then sync.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3660",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: Switching between windows with cmd-tab
Possible Duplicate:
Best app to switch between all open windows (Witch alternatives)
In Microsoft Windows Alt+Tab combination switches between all windows from all applications. In Mac, Cmd+Tab only switches between applications, and when you want to switch between windows in single application, you have to use Cmd+`. I'm used to Windows behavior and I like it more. Is it possible to configure Cmd+Tab to switch between all windows from all applications?
A: There is no built-in way to do it, but Exposé (Wikipedia link) is pretty good.
Alternatively there are some third-party apps which are might help.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3661",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: adjust battery-warning-level of magic mouse How can I adjust the level at which Mac OS warns me about the battery of my magic mouse?
I always have a lack of batteries, so I would prefer if the battery warning comes up at 15 or 20%, so I could work the rest of the day with the almost empty batteries and put them in the charger before I go to sleep.
Right now, if the warning occurs in the morning I have a problem.
I tried to steal the batteries out of my girlfriends camera or her wireless keyboard, but she does karate and defends her batteries.
Buying another set is not an option.
A way to get the battery level via applescript, shellscript, automator, whatever would be applicable too.
A: This thread has some scripts that can help you.
It seems that you wrap the results of this shell snippet in a nice AppleScript:
ioreg -c BNBMouseDevice | grep BatteryPercent
A: In my macOS Sierra 10.12.6, there is no BNBMouseDevice. Script which works for me is:
ioreg -c AppleDeviceManagementHIDEventService -r -l | grep BatteryPercent | sed 's/[^[:digit:]]//g'
Source: Check the battery level of connected bluetooth headphones from the command line
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3663",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "10"
} |
Q: Where does OS X store the profile photo it takes when you first create an account? When you first create your OS X login account it takes a picture of you. Where does that picture get stored? I can't find it in ~/Pictures or ~/Library.
A: Unless your account is a network account from a server such as OSX Server using directory services (or AD on Windows or LDAP on *nix), then it gets stored in the plist file that stores the local directory services data on your Mac.
Before Lion, these files were simply text formatted xml files stored as shortname.plist in the directory /private/var/db/dslocal/nodes/users
The image is encoded as a JPEG file under the key:
<key>jpegphoto</key>
<array>
<data>
/9j/4AAQSkZJRgABAQAAAQABAAD/4QBARXhpZgAATU0AKgAAAAgAAYdpAAQA
AAABAAAAGgAAAAAAAqACAAQAAAABAAACAKADAAQAAAABAAACAAAAAAD/2wBD
If you selected a stock picture instead of a custom one, you may be able to locate that file with the following command:
dscl . -read /Users/shortname Picture
The system also caches more than a handful of previous pictures so you can usually go back to a favorite picture using the system preference graphical tools. If your plist is stored in binary format, you may use a command like this to dump a xml version of the binary file to /tmp:
plutil -convert xml1 shortname.plist -o /tmp/shortname.plist
A: The photo can be found in the /Library/Caches folder, if you haven't cleared this folder yet.
Otherwise, I recommend typing:
dscl . -read /Users/short_username JPEGPhoto | tail -1 | xxd -r -p >
/PATH/TO/accountImage.jpg
on one line in a Terminal window, from Chealion's brilliant answer here. In the above example, a JPEG copy will be saved to /PATH/TO/accountImage.jpg.
A: take a look in ~/Library/Images/iChat Recent Pictures
A: open finder, click: command,shift,G
type:
~/Library/caches/com.skype.skype
then click the folder that is titled as your user name.
then click the SKAvatar Cache folder.
it should be the first image.
Good luck!
A: Get image from profile
*
*Open new terminal window
*Add the following command
dscl . -read $(pwd) JPEGPhoto | tail -1 | xxd -r -p >
$(pwd)/Pictures/profile-photo.jpg
Put image into profile
*
*Open the “Users & Groups” preference panel as usual
*Drag and drop an image file into the existing profile picture thumbnail
*Adjust as necessary and click “Done” to set the image as the profile picture
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3664",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "10"
} |
Q: Is it possible to restart an application using AppleScript? I want to restart Safari and reopen it with some tabs that I specify.
A: An alternative method is to use Safari's built-in "Reopen All Windows from Last Session" feature:
tell application "Safari"
quit
end tell
delay 2 -- Wait for Safari to close
tell application "Safari" to activate
tell application "System Events"
tell process "Safari"
click menu item "Reopen All Windows From Last Session" of menu "History" of menu bar 1
end tell
end tell
A: To save windows/tabs from a session and be able to reopen them, there's a solution here: http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20030913153245341
Be sure to read the comments, apparently there have been several updates to the scripts. Edit: Just use Chealion's answer, much smoother.
If you just want to open a certain set of tabs, you can use this script:
tell application "Safari"
set urllist to {"http://google.com", "http://stackoverflow.com", "http://apple.stackexchange.com"}
repeat with i from 1 to number of items in urllist
set URL of document 1 to item i of urllist
if i is less than number of items in urllist then
my new_tab()
end if
end repeat
end tell
on new_tab()
tell application "Safari" to activate
tell application "System Events"
tell process "Safari"
click menu item "New Tab" of menu "File" of menu bar 1
end tell
end tell
end new_tab
Just list the addresses of the pages you want to open between the {} on line 2. Each address within "" and separated by ,.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3665",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "7"
} |
Q: New folders are created in root instead of currently selected folder When I click on a folder and choose File->New Folder the folder is created in the root directory of my current view instead of the currently selected (highlighted) folder.
How do I make it so when I create a new folder it will create the folder inside of the current highlighted directory?
A: You can't. Finder creates new folders in the folder currently being displayed, not the folder you've highlighted. First you have to display the folder you want the new one in - double click it, then create the new one.
A: Open the folder you want to create the new folder in first (double-click). Then choose File->New Folder or Shift-Cmd-N.
A: There's no built-in way to do that in Finder (as of macOS 12 Monterey, 2021), but you can create a custom Automator action instead. This will provide a right click menu item, as well as a keyboard shortcut, to create a folder under the selected folder in Finder.
See the detailed steps at this answer.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3667",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "5"
} |
Q: How do I use Mac's Preview application text speech feature? How could I let Preview start speaking a selected paragraph? I found the speech menu item in the edit menu but this starts speaking from the beginning of the document!
A: There is a convenient way of making your Mac speak any selected text.
*
*Open System Preferences.
*Select Speech.
*Select the Text to Speech tab if it is not already selected.
*Check the box for Speak selected text when the key is pressed and provide a key combination of your choice.
You can now use the key combination to speak selected text system-wide.
A: I read the above comment and tried to follow the instructions I was unsuccessful (as I didn't highlight the text). Although, having now solved the issue you need to highlight the selected text and then press the key combination (mine is ctrl+s).
Now I use it on all applications including preview, Microsoft Word, chrome etc. I love it.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "16"
} |
Q: Help Creating a Smart Playlist I am hoping someone can help me with a smart playlist creation question.
I have two smart playlists (A and B)
*
*Playlist A contains songs that are
"singles" (meaning I don't have the
full album) and are not in playlist B
*Playlist B contains songs in my
Library that are rated 5-stars
I would like to create playlist C that includes all songs for a specific genre in playlist A and B.
This sounds simple, but if an artist is in Playlist A and B, I can't get the songs in Playlist B to appear.
A: Before creating a playlist, you have to separate the items into very small pieces, otherwise, you risk contradicting yourself.
Playlist A contains songs that are
"singles" (meaning I don't have the
full album) and are not in playlist B
Why are you using “not in playlist B”? I assume you want to have a list of ’singles’ that are 1-4 stars rated. Why not add that to the conditions?
Now your “A" list should be the same as before, but doesn’t mention B at all.
Now you happen to have a list “B” that has 5 rated songs (the good ones!).
And now you want your less than 5 rated singles (A) of “XX Genre”, and your 5 star ones…
As easy as it sounds, in practice it’s more difficult… because what sounds like “this and that” is not really like that.
Let me try to replicate.
My “A” playlist is (I’ve used Track = 1 but I’m sure your condition to determine singles is different and I’m taking 0,1,2 and 3 stars)
My B playlist is easier:
Now I have a C one… that contains tracks from A that have a “Rock” genre:
We’re getting close!
Now we need to group B and C into a single D playlist to enjoy the Joy of single Rocks and 5 start songs!
Here’s our D list:
And that’s it. Now two things are important:
*
*This song must always be in any playlist or you’re doing it wrong.
*If you also want to include the “genre” in the B playlist (is not clear), then modify B playlist to also have a “rock” genre.
Ahhh the joy of playlists. :)
EDIT: You specified two pseudo-contradictory things, but here’s the idea:
Playlist B contains songs in my Library that are rated 5-stars
cannot be intersected with:
all songs for a specific genre in playlist A and B.
In order to achieve that, you’ll have to modify (or create a B2) list that is:
*
*Match All of the following rules:
*“Rating is *****”
*Genre is “Rock”
You can’t modify a previous list from a new. This is not a relational database. Smart lists only work as far as simple pascal logic goes. True/False/Intersection/Union…
If you don’t want to change your B playlist (because you use it for something else), go ahead and create B2 and make it include “all from B” and “Genre is rock” and use that B2 in your final “D” creation, much like we created the “C” list, which is pretty much “A” with Rock Genre.
A: *
*You state that C should be an intersection of D (genre) and A and B.
*You define A as a subset of NOT B.
Assuming you don't have songs twice, once in single form rated <5* and once in album form rated 5*, I think that the two statements above define C as the null set.
Perhaps C should be D AND (A OR B).
A: Try creating new playlist P0 = songs in A + songs in B, and then P1 = P0 AND (Genre = ...).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3678",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: How to share an iTunes library with other user accounts on the same machine? I would like to share the iTunes library my the account of my wife.
But (in importance order):
*
*files should not be duplicated
*playlist and rating are user dependent
*podcast are user dependent
Then, she will managed her ipod with her account.
A: There's an app called PowerTunes that will keep all of the meta-data for a library synchronized between multiple users on a machine. Playlists, ratings, play counts -- all of that stuff that isn't just the physical files. It'll obviously keep all of the iTunes instances for all users aware of all the current physical files on disk too.
A: I was going to start explaining you what you can (and can’t) do or how hard was this going to be, but a single google query lead me to this excellent thread an Apple forum.
I’m going to quote the relevant part, but I suggest you read it all because there’s more information there and more “why” questions.
We assume you have copied all the music to a Central location (be it a machine or a NAS drive or whatever), so somewhere in the network or your harddrive all your music files (library) are accessible to your wife and you (and theoretically both can write to that location, important when adding files).
It doesn’t matter if they are in different computers or just accounts.
With that in mind:
*
*Each future user of the library should launch iTunes with the Option key held down and Create Library. (A blank one).
*With this new iTunes window open, go into iTunes Preferences and UN-check "Keep iTunes Music folder organised" and "Copy files to iTunes Music folder when adding to library".
*Then, they must add the music to the Library, selecting the tracks from the folder where all the music is stored (the common place mentioned above), which will import all the tracks into this new Library without copying the files again (hence why step #2).
*From this point they can create their own playlists and stuff and they can even check the things they unchecked in step #2, in case they decide to add new tracks (see drawback), you’ll want to have them in the central location.
From this point they both have a Library.XML (stores playlists, tracks location, etc.) and that library.xml points to the physical mp3/4 on the “common location” (tracks are not duplicated as you requested).
DRAWBACK (and the fact that there’s no better solution):
If either user of the library adds new music, regardless of the “keep music organized” and “copy files” checkboxes, the other user(s) are not going to see the changes. The reason being that they are modifying their local copy of the library “xml” (which is where all the playlist and stuff is stored).
If USER1 adds 1 track, USER2 will have to find the track in the library and manually add it to his/her own library.
As you can see, iTunes was not really designed for multiuser.
Go ahead and read the post, it will give you more pros/cons and maybe other ideas.
EDIT: one way to know “what is new” in the library folder (where the music is actually stored) would be to create a smart folder that shows files added in the last “xx” days (for example). :)
A: You should make ~/Music/iTunes/ a symlink to a shared location accessible to all users of the computer.
A: The best way is to sign in to iTunes match on both accounts. They will then keep in sync. You will have the same playlists on both though.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3682",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "16"
} |
Q: Is there a way to fix these scratches on my MacBook Pro's screen? I have the Mid-2010 13" MacBook Pro. Sadly, the Keyboard Keys have caused some scratches in the screen, which is annoying as hell. (Yes, I know, I should use the white buffer sheet that came with it)
Is there a way to fix these scratches? Or so I need a really expensive replacement screen cover?
A: I'm surprised no else one has said it yet:
This is a nearly brand-new MacBook Pro still covered by warranty.
There is absolutely no reason that your keyboard keys should damage the display like that. This is a design flaw that has existed in their laptops at least as far back as the PowerBook G4. The keys should not touch the screen when the lid is closed under any circumstances, but they invariably do.
I have to clean my screen every few days to get rid of the keyboard imprints, but luckily have taken no damage to the screen (probably only because I use the awesome Moshi keyboard cover, which also saved my MBP from a hot tea disaster).
Take it to Apple and make them fix it under warranty!
A: If it’s only the glass and you don’t want apple to do it for you (and charge you accordingly) you can do it yourself. Get one of these (make sure it’s the right model for your macbook) and start unscrewing stuff :)
Remember that Apple does not sell these parts and therefore these are “copies” of it. According to every vendor “they are the same, they look the same, you won’t notice the difference”. But… they are vendors. I don’t have experience with these things.
This Google Query may bring other results. It’s not impossible (I have opened a Macbook Pro Unibody) but it requires patience and the right tools. Check iFixIt for pictures of stripped Macbooks and possibly guides on how to “open them”. More specifically, check this area, where it explains how to change the front display glass.
Bear in mind that doing any of this will break your warranty. Unless you pay Apple to do it (and charge you accordingly).
I’d first go to an Apple Store and “ask” what are the options, they may be “cool” and give you a hand.
A: This might sound crazy, but I've fixed nasty scratches in CDs and DVDs with plain toothpaste. Not minty-gel-crystal-whitening-all-in-one toothpaste, just plain, humble, white chalk, flouride toothpaste (some do still exist in the major chain stores). Just a small amount buffed in with a cotton wash cloth did the trick. Maybe that would work here?
A: I had a scratch on my 27" Mac monitor. It is a glass screen and unfortunately the scratch was right in the middle and very distracting.
I too was very leery about putting toothpaste on my precious screen, but after googling around I was not getting any better answers so I decided to give it a try.
I took a little bit of toothpaste. It was not the "simple" kind of toothpaste mentioned above but one of the ones with all the other stuff added. I suspect the kind of toothpaste does not matter.
I used a piece of white computer paper to rub the toothpaste on the scratch. One YouTube video that I saw said paper worked better than tissue so I went with that. And the verdict? It works! If I look very closely I can still see the scratch but it is way better now.
It took me about of 5-10 minutes of rubbing. I went pretty slow because I was paranoid that I was going to screw up my screen, but there do not seem to be any ill effects.
I strongly recommend you give this a try. Note that this will only work with glass screens.
A: This happened to me on two other notebooks. Fixing this is a pain and it's costly. Tried buffing, but it was not exactly successful. Replacing the screen was traumatic for me and expensive. I suppose that's why it was traumatic...
Although this might be considered a shameless plug, I created a product to prevent this stuff. Just launched it on IndieGoGo: igg.me/at/scudo
It's made from authentic Ultrasuede and called Scudo. The SRP is only $15, and just $10 during the campaign. This is about the only kind of thing that will prevent this from happening.
I hope this helps in the future. I really empathize with the angst.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Offline furigana for iOS Is there any software to compute and display furigana completely offline?
It doesn't have to be integrated with any existing app. A new standalone app I type into is fine.
A: You have several apps available on the App store now - just search for Furigana.
I have a friend that likes this one, but YMMV:
*
*Furigana Reader - https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/furigana-reader/id529433422?mt=8
It does not work offline, so it doesn't meet your requirements unless you fail to find any offline software and can relax that constraint.
A: I'm a little confused here. You want an app that you can type kanji into and get the kana in return. But the only way to type kanji into the iPhone is by typing it phonetically, which gives you the kana for free, essentially.
There are a number of self-contained Japanese dictionary apps for the iPhone. Most of them use the EDICT dictionary. I've got one that can import EPWING-formatted dictionaries, and have imported Kenkyusha's New Japanese-English Dictionary into it.
This seems like the closest to what you want. I think. I get the impression that it has the dictionaries built-in, but I could be wrong.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3686",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Are there keyboard shortcuts for Home, End, PageDown, and PageUp in OS X? How do I set keyboard shortcuts for Home, End, PageDown, and PageUp on a 13" MacBook Pro? Are there default keyboard shortcuts? Or can I do it with Automator (and if so, how)?
I want them to work the same way that Home and End do on all Windows apps.
I also want general solution I get that Kyle Cronin♦ was do the same in some apps, but what about others? is there any tricky solution?
A: You can do page up/down and home/end on a Macbook keyboard by using the fn and the arrow keys:
fn+↑ is PageUp
fn+↓ is PageDown
fn+← is Home
fn+→ is End
A: I found another solution for you while I was playing around with KeyRemap4MacBook. Check out the settings pictured below. See anything you like? :)
A: On my MBP it's:
CMD + FN + <- for HOME
and
CMD + FN + -> for END
A: ⌘+→ works like a PC's End (moves the cursor to the end of the line). ⌘+← works like a PC's Home (moves to the beginning of the line). ctrl+A and ctrl+E (Emacs-style keybindings) work in most OS X applications as well.
A: For Eclipse it appears that these keys aren't even set to anything by default, at least in my installation. You probably need to set them in the preferences:
I don't know exactly where the end and home Windows-like functions are in this screen, I couldn't find anything yet that sounds like what they do. Something like "move cursor to end\beginning of line" was what I was looking for.
If you're talking about Safari's address bar, try ⌘+→ and ⌘+← for end and home. Those work in lots of other apps as well.
A: In Terminal, you can use ⌥ Opt+← for home and ⌥ Opt+→ for end. Although this is on a Swedish keyboard.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3687",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "67"
} |
Q: iPod touch stuck on restore screen My iPod touch (2G 32GB iOS 4.1) is stuck on this screen
(image from the iPhone restore assistant page). I guess that means that I need to sync with iTunes, but unfortunately when I try I get
There's no way I can enter the passcode, and (as far as I can see) there's no way I can reset the device without connecting it to iTunes somehow.
I have followed the troubleshooting steps on that page to no avail, and there's no mention of passcodes there. I've tried this on the usual sync PC and on my laptop. I'm hamstrung a little in that it's an old device and none of the side buttons work anymore so I can't try power off / reset but I've tried letting the battery run out and restarting it to no avail. I do still see pop-ups for my calendar appointments over the iTunes sync image. I've tried pretending the keypad is there and entering my passcode but no luck.
What does that screen mean? Is there any way to forcibly reset the software in iTunes even though it won't connect because of the passcode, or is there any way I can reset the software from outside iTunes? (I can't find anything on the Apple support website or in the manuals.)
I've seen this thread on MacRumours which has the same problem; it sounds like it was fixed by resetting the iPod. As above my top button is broken so I can't do that, but I did try letting it run flat which I assumed would do the same thing and that didn't help. There's also this thread in the Apple forums but there's no solution there: just that the restore worked the next day, whereas I can't even get that far.
A: It sounds like the home button still works, which is the only button you need to have iTunes recover the iPod for you. Note that recovering the iPod will wipe all of its data completely.
I tried this with an iPhone which I believe was in much worse shape than this and it worked. In my case my phone never got past the Apple logo and would shut down shortly after. Even a hard-drive restoration company wasn't able to access the data, yet the recovery through iTunes did work, so there is hope.
Apple calls this recovery mode.
All you need to do is press and hold the home button on the iPod while connecting it to the PC. iTunes should detect an iPod in recovery mode and allow you to recover the device (again, this wipes out all data completely).
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3689",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Are iPhone sim cards locked specifically to the iPhone hardware? I've got an iPhone 3GS, on the UK network of O2
Can I take that sim card out, and put it into another mobile device (not iPhone) ? I don't have a spare device to try this hence asking here
More importantly, would the sim card actually work in a non-iPhone device or is it locked for iPhone usage only?
Thanks
A: No SIM card is locked to any phone. The SIM card will work in any unlocked device supporting the frequencies used by the carrier that issued the SIM card.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3691",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Using External Monitor. Want Mouse to move Up/Down, not Left/Right? I've got an external monitor and want to be able to use the monitor above the laptop.
It seems I'm supposed to use "Spaces" to support an external monitor which I have done and I've set up two spaces for this. Unfortunately it seems that I'm only able to move between spaces by moving my mouse cursor from left to right instead of from top to bottom and vice versa. Given the layout of the monitors it is really unnatural to have to move from left to right in order to access monitors that are stacked. I can easily do this on my Dell laptop running Windows but is there a way to do it with my Mac's OS X? Stumped.
(source: mikeschinkel.com)
Thanks in advance for the help.
-Mike
A: You don't need to worry about Spaces for this. What you need to do is go into:
System Preferences --> Displays --> Arrangement
Drag the icon representing your external monitor to the top of the icon representing your macbook monitor:
You can also drag the bar representing your menubar/dock to whichever monitor you want to be your "main" display.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3694",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "14"
} |
Q: How do I move my menubar to an external monitor? I just asked this question (Using External Monitor and Spaces. Want Mouse to move Up/Down, not Left/Right?) and @calavera gave me a great answer, thanks!
But now I have another question. It seems that the menubar wants to stay with the laptop and doesn't seem to be possible to move to the external monitor. Am I beating a dead horse here or is it somehow possible to achieve the layout I'm looking for? See screenshot:
(source: mikeschinkel.com)
A: SecondBar is also an excellent free app that will add a second menu bar on the other monitor.
A: Try and drag the menubar icon you're pointing to in that screenshot to the other monitor. It's kind of hard to grab with the mouse pointer but it should work if you can click/drag that white space rather than the blue space representing the monitor.
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "9"
} |
Q: Since upgrading to version 10.0.1 of iTunes, playback is bumpy Since I upgraded to version iTunes (10.0.1), playback is bumpy and full of hiccups. Typically, for video playback the video will freeze for a second or two at random times, and then skip to the current location in time, meaning that content will be skipped over. This happens every time I play videos now, and it is seriously starting to annoy me.
For mp3 playback, sporadic hiccups seem to be happening as well, but with nowhere near the frequency of videos.
The videos I play are all content purchased from the iTunes store, typically TV shows in 'standard definition'.
I have (obviously) tried to close other resource-hungry apps etc, but that does not help. iTunes is typically at 5-15% processor usage when playing video.
I use Mac OS X 10.6.4 on a 2.53 Ghz Intel Core 2 Duo MacBook Pro with 4GB RAM. Hard drive has about 10 GB of free space.
Any ideas as to what is wrong here?
A: This might come a little bit as an obvious question but… have you restarted your box since you installed that? A zombie process could be causing delays in other areas.
Check with /Applications/Utilities/Activity Monitor.app and sort by CPU usage to see if there’s anything “red” (zombie) or any process not behaving.
In any case, a sane box restart (if you haven’t already) is usually a good advice. Turn the box off for a few secs and then turn it on again, the VRAM might be corrupted and a simple “restart” won’t always do the right thing. (It happens to me in the Mac Pro).
The reason for mentioning this is that your computer is more than capable to play videos.
Do you have Perian or any other third party codecs laying around that might interfere?
| {
"language": "en",
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"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
Q: Ripping a whole website to PDF Adobe Acrobat Pro allows the user to convert an entire website (or subset) to a PDF. Is there anything else available for OS X to do the same thing? I don't want to spend several hundred dollars.
Ideally, it would allow the user to rip a URL and all other URLs on the same "prefix" to a single PDF. For example, given the URL "http://example.com/a_web_page", it would pull "http://example.com/a_web_page/index.html", "http://example.com/a_web_page/a", "http://example.com/a_web_page/b", etc., but not "http://example.com/index.html" to a single PDF.
I have found whole books released under Creative Commons licenses as HTML pages (one per chapter, or section). I would like to capture the entire book to a single PDF to read on my iPad.
Thanks.
A: It doesn’t do “whole websites” because it would be hard for it to know “how deep” (tho I agree it could be configured in a way of: go down XX levels), but in any case, if your HTML pages contain a full chapter and assuming the books have about 20-30 chapters, is not that “bad”.
With that in mind, I have an inexpensive application that does this job, and it’s called Web Snapper.
What's so special about Web Snapper?
Web Snapper is drag and drop simple.
When you want to grab a page, you drag
the URL and drop it onto the drop zone
in Web Snapper (or the app icon in the
dock) – it really could't be any
simpler. With the 'Snapper, you can
save pages as scalable/vector PDFs (we
even preserve the links!), or in any
of the image formats that are
supported by MacOS X. If you want to
make a multi-page PDF - simply drag
and drop multiple URLs and then click
the "Save to Multipage PDF".
It may help you because the price tag is $15.
A: Out company developed a batch process for this at PDFmyURL - with this you can convert an entire website to PDF by using a simple API. If you have the sitemap you can just pass this to the API and otherwise you pass the list of URLs that need to be crawled.
The details are here
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3703",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "6"
} |
Q: What are the specific restrictions on downgrading an iPod Touch to previous iOS versions? We want to test our iOS app on a few devices (iPhone 3G and 4 - or equivalent iPod Touch), but we also need to ensure it will run on the major releases of iOS, maybe 3.0.x, 3.1.x, 4.0.x, etc - I'm a little rusty on the version numbers and who got free upgrades to what.
I've read Is there a way to downgrade a 2nd gen iPod touch from iOS 4 back to 3.1.3? but I'm still unclear whether or not we can just buy a single iPod Touch and downgrade and upgrade as necessary, or if we'd have to buy an iPod Touch per iOS version we want to test.
So, what are the specific restrictions placed on downgrading? Can we just get our devices into DFU mode and apply whatever version we want? I don't want to end up buying a lot of devices if we only need one each.
We don't need any phone-only hardware such as the microphone or sending SMSs, so that's not a factor.
Cheers!
A: (I'm not certain of this answer -- it's a somewhat educated hunch, based on using iPods for 10 years and Apple products for 25, and looking at wikipedia. If anyone knows from actual experience, use that answer instead.)
In general, I would guess that you can downgrade an iPod to the version of the OS that it was released with, but not earlier. So, for example, an iPod Touch 2g could probably be downgraded to iPhone OS 2.1, but not 1.1 (which wouldn't really matter since there was no App Store in 1.x!). Each iPod Touch gen-N ships with the N.1 release of iOS, about a month after the corresponding iPhone ships with the N.0 release.
An iPod Touch 2g should run all versions of iOS for the iPod Touch that have an App Store, though it doesn't support all the features of iOS 4. The hardware differences between iPod models might be a bigger issue for testing, e.g., older iPods don't have a built-in microphone.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3705",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "1"
} |
Q: Why does Safari on the iPhone sometimes display a broken play image for YouTube videos? Sometimes I get this "cannot play" image instead of a YouTube video. The video looks normal on a computer, so I'm not sure why this happens. Reloading the page in Safari doesn't help.
Here's the page I was visiting: http://www.boweryboogie.com/2010/11/basketball-diary-trick-shots-on-the-lower-east%C2%A0side.html#more-19961
A: You tube sends HTML5/H.264 video to Safari and devices that are unable to reproduce flash video, however, certain videos (those who have ADs and some other features, as far as I can remember)) are still not supported by YouTube in HTML5 format; that explains why you might experience some problems when using Safari and seeing an embedded video.
In those cases, it’s best to use YouTube’s native application for the iPhone to watch the video.
I have the HTML5 “lab” enabled in youtube and it clearly says that “videos that have Advertising will be reproduced using the Flash player instead”. The video you are showing in your example (this) has advertising in it, hence why mobile safari on the iOS can’t reproduce it.
In you want to know more about this HTML5 “trial”, you can find all the information on youtube’s HTML page.
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3707",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "4"
} |
Q: Why does my iPhone alarm go off one hour late? I live in Italy and since the summer time change; I cannot set up the alarm to ring at the appropriate time.
I need the alarm to ring at 6:30 am, but if i set the alarm to 6:30 it rings at 7:30 instead.
It's very annoying. I tried to delete every alarm i had set before and create new ones, but i doesn't change anything. How can i fix it?
A: I believe you’re a victim of the iPhone time bug. You don’t specify your iPhone model nor iOS version, but I’m sure you have the above mentioned problem:
Reports from around the world have exposed a daylights savings flaw in the iOS software, which is causing alarms to go off either an hour late or early, depending on where you live.
Google for more love in the subject.
A: I ran into the same annoyance myself, and stumbled into this workaround:
Edit the "Repeat" setting for your alarm, and set it either to "Every day" or "Never". Now the alarm goes off when it should, unlike when it's set to e.g. "Weekdays". Here's a screenshot — green works and red doesn't:
For more background info, I recommend these MacRumors articles:
*
*iOS 4.1 Daylight Saving Time Bug Strikes Europe
*Apple Support Acknowledges iOS 4.1 Daylight Saving Time Bug
The latter post contains Apple's recommended workaround (same thing as above, but with some additional information):
To resolve this behavior for existing alarms, set the repeat interval to Never. You will need to reset these alarms for each day you need them.
After November 7th, 2010, you can set your alarms to repeat again.
It's now past November 7, and I just verified alarm works correctly again, even if repeat is set to e.g. "Weekdays". Which is nice. But I hope they fix the bug once and for all before the next DST shift occurs!
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3711",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "11"
} |
Q: Reset Snow Leopard user accounts/preference My kids completely changed everything in their user account, what is the easiest way to reset everything to default (without reinstalling everything) including:
*
*Name of hard drive
*Menu items in Finder
*Dock size and items
*Size/appearance of things
*Even some applications have been moved from their original location
A: *
*Name of hard drive
Click enter, rename it
*Menu items in Finder
What do you mean by that?
*Dock size and items
Trashing ~/Library/Preferences/com.apple.dock.plist will do the trick
*Size/appearance of things
Trashing the .plist file under ~/Library/Preferences
*Even some applications have been moved from their original location
You'll have to move them back to /Applications manually.
In order for that not to be reproduced, you could try Parental Controls under System Preferences > Account and limit what they can do on their account.
A: In addition to Loïc’s excellent answer
Menu items in Finder
What do you mean by that?
I believe he means the Finder’s Sidebar and such. In order to reset those, thrash the following file and logoff (or restart):
~/Library/Preferences/com.apple.sidebarlists.plist
Even some applications have been moved from their original location
You'll have to move them back to
/Applications manually.
Yes, unless he has a Time Machine backup… which I believe he doesn’t. :)
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3720",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "2"
} |
Q: Alternatives to command line unzip? I've found that the command line unzip tool doesn't gracefully handle some of the files I'm unzipping: it makes a bunch of junk directories, and creates files whose resource forks aren't found. (Perhaps they were created strangely.)
$ unzip -d NEW-DIRECTORY ZIP
Anyways, using Archive Utility is a start, because I can run the following and it is close (and it doesn't mess up my files):
$ open -a "Archive Utility" ZIP
But this does not allow me to specify a new directory for the contents!! It automatically puts them in the current directory. :P
What are my alternatives?
A: The Unarchiver has a beta version of their command line utility available on their downloads page.
A: I saw this extremely helpful answer to a problem I was having unzipping applications on another board from user patashnik:
unzip doesn't handle the embedded resourceforks in ZIP files created by the Finder. If you want to unarchive those files from the CLI, use ditto:
ditto -V -x -k --sequesterRsrc --rsrc FILENAME.ZIP DESTINATIONDIRECTORY
If you want to unpack the archive in the current directory, use . as DESTINATIONDIRECTORY
A: "The Unarchiver" is a great tool, and I highly recommend it, both the GUI and the CLI tools.
That said, my unzip command is
ditto -xk foo.zip target_dir
where 'target_dir' is the directory where I want the files to appear (and it can be '.' if you want them to unzip right there).
Note that 'target_dir' will be created if needed.
Also note that ditto does not mind overwriting files, so use with care.
ditto on Mac OS X is designed to preserve resource forks, etc. so it is my preferred method of unzipping files, especially because it ships with OS X by default.
A: 7z can handle some oddly zipped files
brew install p7zip
7z x weirdarchive.zip
A: you can use also:
*
*yemuzip
and
*
*stuffit-expander (not free)
A: Springy is a very versatile unarchiver. Shareware - and worth it to me.
A: brew install unar
and then:
unar foo.zip
| {
"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3724",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "10"
} |
Q: How to ensure that all networking goes through my ssh proxy? I have a network location set up to ssh tunnel to my server. For now, just ssh -D type stuff. This works fine. I set up the tunnel from within my .screenrc. In other words, "screen" is the trigger to connect to my proxy. Before I type that I should not be able to go online. However, lynx and ping go through without problems. tunnel or not. This is disquieting.
How can I ensure all network traffic uses my Network settings, and not it's own? The only way packets should be leaving is via my DynamicForward port.
EDIT: The apple specificity comes with the Network settings, either accessed via System Preferences, or via networksetup.
OS X has both ipfw, and the application level firewall.
The appfirewall does not seem to stop things from going out. It stops connections to the system.
Ipfw does take precedence over the application firewall, apparently.
My SOCKS5 proxy is set up on a port, and I then give that port to in a network Location as the SOCKS5 proxy. This works fine. As I see it, programs should not get a choice about using the proxy, and indeed, if I turn it off, browsers can not access the web.
Linux and *BSD's do not have the various ( quite nifty ) things that OSX has in this regard. For them, it would be ipchains and ipfw, respectively.
I think I'm missing something. It should just work.
A: Assuming that ssh is running on localhost (or another machine on the local subnet), the easiest thing to do is to shut down your routes so that nothing can get outside. netstat -nr will show you your current routes. Mine looks like this:
Internet:
Destination Gateway Flags Refs Use Netif Expire
default 192.168.0.69 UGSc 93 4438 en1
192.168.0.69 is my default route. If I take that route out: route delete default 192.168.0.69 then I cannot get to any machine not wired to my network. Once screen sets up your proxy, you should have access back.
A: You may want to have a look at man networksetup to see if it could give you what you are looking for.
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"language": "en",
"url": "https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/3728",
"timestamp": "2023-03-29T00:00:00",
"source": "stackexchange",
"question_score": "3"
} |
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