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How to Make a Tortillon | Have you ever been in the middle of drawing something, only to realize you didn’t have an easy way to neatly blend your work? If so, then you need to try using a tortillon. A tortillon is a cylindrical tool artists use to smudge or blend marks made by a variety of materials, including charcoal, crayon or pencil. And luckily for you, it’s very easy – and cheap – to make a tortillon at home.
1. **Gather your supplies.** To create the tortillon, you will need a blank piece of copy paper (recommended size A4) a ruler, a pencil and a pair of scissors. You will be able to create two usable tortillons for every one piece of copy paper you prepare.
A4 paper is 210mm wide and 297mm long (approximately 8 1/4 x 11 3/4 inches.)
2. **Draw a straight line.** To do this, measure 1” down the side of your paper and mark it with your pencil. Flip your paper and measure 1” down on the other side. Connect your ruler between the two pencil markings and draw your straight line.
3. **Cut your paper.** Following the straight line you’ve drawn down the center of your paper, cut the paper into two halves. To learn how to cut a straight line on paper using scissors, read this article.
4. **Roll your paper.** Grasp the narrowest end of your paper in your hands. Roll the paper evenly and medium tightly towards the other edge of the paper. Be careful not to roll too tightly, as this can result in a more finely tipped tortillon.
If you are struggling to roll your tortillon, try positioning it on a flat surface and rolling it using a similar motion to that of a rolling pin. Don’t worry if you struggle for a while; creating a usable tortillon takes time and practice.
5. **Form the pencil shape.** To accomplish this, you will need a thick wire, knitting needle or something similarly sized and shaped. Using your tool, push the center of the tortillon out until it has assumed the shape of a pencil.
6. **Secure the tortillon.** Take a small piece of tape and use it to reinforce the tortillon. Make sure to trim any extra paper or tape from the top, as this will get in the way of blending and could potentially ruin your shading.
7. **Clean your tortillon.** Tortillons will last for a long time, provided you care for them. To clean your tortillon, rub it against a rough surface until the outer layer is scraped off. Medium sandpaper is a great tool for cleaning your tortillon.
When blending lighter areas, use a clean tortillon. When blending darker areas, use a dirty tortillon.
8. **Trim the frayed paper.** Using craft scissors, clean off the excess paper from your tortillon. Go slowly, and try to recreate the rounded point you had after initially creating the tortillon.
9. **Organize tortillons by color.** If you continuously clean your tortillons, you will find they have a much shorter shelf life. To avoid this, try organizing your tortillons by the color lead they have on them. If you continue to use the correct shade of tortillon when you are blending, you will not have to clean them as often and the tortillon will last much longer. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Tortillon", "language": "en"} |
How to T‐Streak (Microbiology) | In nature, bacteria are found on practically every surface imaginable and unfortunately rarely exist in isolated populations containing a singular species of bacterium. This presents microbiologists with an interesting challenge obtaining isolated colonies of bacteria in a method that is both simple and rapid. The three sector streak or commonly referred to as the “T-Streak” is a basic, yet crucial skill used by microbiologist on a daily basis to isolate, identify, and study colonies of bacteria.
1. **Flip to the back of a sterile petri dish containing agar.** Draw a line starting slightly above the center point. Continue drawing the line until you hit the back plate's edge.
2. **Draw another line starting from the left side of the back plate until you hit the other side.** This new line should be perpendicular to the original line, intersecting it at the starting point. The back plate of the petri dish should now be divided into three sectors, appearing as a large “T”.
3. **Label the back plate of the petri dish with relevant laboratory information such as your initials, date, time and culture source.**
4. **Begin by connecting the Bunsen burner to a fuel source and igniting it.**
5. **Insert the loop into the flame at a vertical angle.** The object is to have the inoculation loop be slightly above the inner blue cone of the flame. Hold it there for several seconds.
6. **Remove the loop from the flame.** At this point, the loop is sterile and extremely hot.
The inoculation loop must be cooled, or else the residual heat will kill any bacteria taken from the culture.
7. **Cool the inoculating loop.** Lift the lid of the petri dish just enough to insert the loop. Touch the outer edge of the nutrient agar. A sizzling sound should be heard upon first contact. Continue holding the inoculation loop against the surface for several seconds.
8. **Remove the inoculation loop from the petri dish.** Avoid touching any other surface at this point, doing so will recontaminate the inoculation loop.
9. **Hold the sterile inoculation loop.** Open the source of your culture such as broth culture.
10. **Insert the loop into the culture, swirling the contents to insure even distribution of bacteria within.** Do this for several seconds.
11. **Remove the loop and recover the original sample.**
12. **Select a colony or section of the sample.**
13. **Remove the cover from the agar plate and scrape up the selected specimen with the inoculation loop.**
14. **Place the cover of the plate back on.**
15. **Lift the lid of the petri dish just enough to insert the loop.** Beginning in the top sector of the “T’, lightly drag the inoculation loop across the surface of the nutrient agar in a zigzag pattern. It is important to stay within the region in which you are currently inoculating.
16. **Re-sterilize the inoculation loop now that the first sector of the “T” has been inoculated.** Follow the method described in Sterilizing the Inoculation Loop. Remember to cool the inoculating loop on the edge of the nutrient agar that has not been contaminated with the original culture!
17. **Rotate the petri dish 90 degrees and lift the lid just enough to insert the loop.**
18. **Start in the first sector.** Lightly drag the inoculation loop across nutrient agar toward the second sector.
19. **Continue into the second sector.** Lightly drag the inoculation loop across the nutrient agar in a zigzag pattern.
20. **Re-sterilize the inoculation loop now that the second sector of the “T” has been inoculated.** Follow the method described in Sterilizing the Inoculation Loop. Remember to cool the inoculating loop on the edge of the nutrient agar that has not been contaminated with the original culture!
21. **Rotate the petri dish 90 degrees and lift the lid just enough to insert the loop.**
22. **Start in the second sector.** Lightly drag the inoculation loop across the nutrient agar towards the third sector.
23. **Continue into the third sector.** Lightly drag the inoculation loop across the nutrient agar in a zigzag pattern. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/T%E2%80%90Streak-(Microbiology)", "language": "en"} |
How to Smoke Trout | Smoked trout offers a variety of unique flavors to pair with your meals. Maple, hickory, and alder are just a few of the common smoking flavors. Learning how to smoke your own trout will give you the freedom to experiment with different seasonings and smoke flavors within the comfort of your home and at a fraction of the cost of store-bought smoked trout. With a smoker, wood chips, and some boneless trout fillets with the skin, you will be able to learn how to successfully smoke trout yourself.
1. **Rinse the boneless trout fillets and rest them in a glass baking dish.** As you rinse the boneless fillets under cool water, use your fingers to remove any remnants that are stuck to the fillet from the gutting and bone removal process. Gently shake excess water from the fillets, and place them into a glass baking dish.
Place the fillets skin side down into the baking dish to make it easier to marinate.
2. **Marinate the fillets overnight in olive oil, chopped garlic, and dried rosemary.** Coat the fillets with 2 US tbsp (30 mL) of olive oil, 4 cloves of chopped garlic, and 1 1/2 tbsp (2.55 g) of chopped, dried rosemary. Use your fingers to rub the seasonings into the meat. Then, cover the baking dish and set it in the refrigerator so the fillets can marinate overnight.
If you do not want to season your fillets before smoking them, then proceed to soak the fillets in brine after rinsing them.
3. **Mix 1 US quart (950 mL) of water with 1/2 cup (150 g) of kosher salt.** Pour the water into a large container that can hold about 4 US quarts (3,800 mL). Add the kosher salt, and use a spoon to stir the water for 1-2 minutes or until the salt is completely dissolved. This will create a basic brine that will moisten and add flavor to the trout.
Sweeten the brine by stirring in 1/2 cup (100 g) of brown sugar.
4. **Submerge each of your fillets in the brine and refrigerate them for 3 hours.** Arrange your trout fillets so that all of them are submerged within the brine. Then, place a cover on the container and set it in the refrigerator to marinate for at least 3 hours.
5. **Rinse the fillets under cool water to remove the brine.** Take a fillet out of the container with the brine, and rinse it under cool water until any excess brine has been removed. Then, use a paper towel to gently dry off the fillet.
Discard the brine by pouring it down your kitchen sink, and then thoroughly rinse your sink with hot water.
6. **Spread the fillets out on a baking rack, placing the skin against the rack.** Take each fillet and place them on a baking rack. Make sure the skin side of the fillet is against the rack, as this will help expedite the drying process.
If you do not have a baking rack large enough to support all of the fillets, use 2 smaller baking racks instead. Smaller baking racks might also be easier to place inside your refrigerator if it is filled with food.
7. **Refrigerate the fillets on the baking rack for 21-24 hours to dry them.** Rest the baking rack in a spot of your refrigerator where the fillets won’t be disturbed. Leave the fillets overnight or for a full 24 hours so they can dry. The skin on the fillets will be shiny or slightly sticky when ready.
If the skin does not seem shiny or sticky, then continue to refrigerate the fillets until the skin appears shiny. The tackiness is key to getting the smoke flavor to adhere to the meat.
To make the baking rack easier to transport, set it inside of a baking sheet. This will also keep the raw fish from contaminating other items in your refrigerator.
8. **Turn on your smoker and bring the temperature to 150 °F (66 °C).** Use charcoal or whatever means required to heat your particular smoker. Refer to the manufacturing directions on how to heat and use your specific smoker.
You can purchase a smoker in the outdoors section of your local department store, or online with major retailers.
9. **Soak approximately 1 lb (0.45 kg) of wood chips in cold water for 30 minutes.** Use a scent of wood chips that appeals to your particular tastes. Then, pour the wood chips into a large bowl filled with cold water and allow them to soak for at least 30 minutes. The water will saturate the wood chips and help produce smoke when heated.
For a mild smoky flavor, use alder, pecan, oak, or apple wood chips.
For a strong smoky flavor, use mesquite, hickory, or maple wood chips.
10. **Rest the fillets on the smoking rack so the skin is against the rack.** Do not overcrowd the smoker. Otherwise, the trout may not smoke properly. Leave about ⁄4 in (0.64 cm) between each fillet.
Season the fillets with freshly, ground black pepper to taste if desired.
To help create a natural separation between the fillets, individually rest your fillets into a small well or dish made out of a piece of aluminum foil. Then, place the fillets onto the smoking rack. The aluminum foil will also conduct heat around the meat. This is not necessary, but it can be useful if you have a lot of fillets to fit on the smoking rack.
11. **Add a handful of the soaked wood chips into the smoker to flavor the meat.** Place a handful of the chips into your smoker as directed by the manufacturing instructions. This usually includes dispersing the wood chips over the hot coals or rocks in the smoker, or filling a heat box or pan with the wood chips.
You can add more wood chips throughout the smoking process to increase the amount of smoky flavor produced.
12. **Smoke the covered trout for 2.5-3 hours to cook and flavor the meat.** Use a meat thermometer to check the internal temperature of the fillets. When cooked, the internal temperature will be 165 °F (74 °C), and the meat will have darkened in color.
Avoid smoking the trout longer than 4 hours. Otherwise, you may dry out the meat.
13. **Remove the fillets from the smoker and let them rest for 20 minutes.** Carefully, use a pair of heat-resistant tongs to transfer the smoked trout from the smoker and onto a serving plate. Then, allow the trout to rest for approximately 20 minutes before serving or eating.
Squeeze fresh lemon juice onto the smoked trout before serving. The tart flavor of the lemon will complement the smokiness of the trout.
14. **Store any leftover smoked trout in the refrigerator for about a week.** Place the leftover smoked trout into a sealable container. Then, store the container in the refrigerator and enjoy eating it over the next week.
Reheat the trout in a pan over a medium heat or enjoy eating it chilled. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Smoke-Trout", "language": "en"} |
How to Make a Peach Color | When you’re working on an art project and you need the perfect shade of peach, making it yourself is your best option. Whether you’re working on someone’s skin tone or adding peaches to a fruit tree, blending your own color lets you control the shade, tone, and hue. In this article, we’ll tell you exactly how to make a peach color with paint, colored pencils, or food coloring so you can finish up your art project fast.
1. **Start with red, yellow, and white.** These are the 3 primary colors that make up peach. Pour a dollop of paint onto your easel or a flat surface so you can mix them together easily.
If you already have orange paint premixed, you can use it instead of red and yellow.
You can mix each color in equal proportions, or play with having a bit more of one or two of the colors to achieve the precise shade of peach you want.
2. **Mix red and yellow together to make orange.** Grab a paint brush or a pallet brush and mix a little bit of red and yellow together. You’re going for a light orange, so add more yellow if you need to.
3. **Add a large dollop of white to lighten the orange to peach.** Once you’ve got an orange color, use your brush to add a hefty dollop of white paint. Keep stirring your paint together, and add more white until you’re satisfied with the peachy color.
4. **Add more white or yellow to lighten the color.** More yellow in your mixture will result in a coral, fruity color, similar to an unripe peach. Or, add white to lighten it without changing the tint.
5. **Add more red to darken the color.** Maybe you’re going for a more rusty, orange peach color. Use your brush to add a small dollop of red to darken your color. Remember, red goes a long way, so start small and work your way up.
6. **Start with a very thin layer of red.** Use a red colored pencil to shade your area, but use a very light hand. You’ll be layering other colors on top, so gently press the pencil down onto the paper.
7. **Add a thin layer of yellow on top.** Red and yellow mix to make a very light orange or peach color. Grab your yellow colored pencil and very lightly add a layer on top of your red color.
8. **Keep layering until you reach your desired color.** Use the red pencil again, then the yellow again, and then the red again. You can keep adding layers until you get the perfect shade of peach that you love.
9. **Add white for a more opaque color.** If your peach color is a bit too transparent for your liking, grab a white colored pencil and go over the area. The white will blend all of the colors a bit more and make them harder to see through.
10. **Start with plain white batter or frosting.** Peach dye shows up the best when you start with a white base. Either whip up a batch of buttercream frosting or make some white vanilla cake batter to start out with.
11. **Add 50 drops of red food coloring.** Don’t be alarmed—50 drops is only about ⁄2 tsp (2.5 mL)! The red will create the base of the peach color.
12. **Mix in 45 drops of yellow food coloring.** You can use a spoon or a whisk to blend your 2 colors together. After mixing, you’ll notice them become a light orange or peach color for the perfect decorative element.
13. **Warm hues make a warm peach.** If you’re looking for a bright, inviting peach color, choose warm reds (like cadmium red or scarlett) and yellows (like Indian yellow or cadmium yellow) to make your peach base. Warm colors often portray optimism and happiness in art and design.
A warm peach typically makes a great skin color, especially if your subject has warm undertones.
14. **Cool hues make a cool peach.** Maybe you want a cooler, softer peach color to use in your work. In that case, gravitate toward cool yellows (like lemon yellow or yellow light) and reds (like crimson or rose) to make your peach. Cool tones often have a calming, relaxed feel to them.
15. **Mix warm and cool hues to mute the peach color.** Is your peach too vibrant or bright? In that case, try mixing a cool red and a warm yellow (or vice versa). The result will be a more muted peach color that doesn’t stand out as much. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Peach-Color", "language": "en"} |
How to Allow Pop–ups | This wikiHow teaches you how to allow pop-up ads and notifications in your web browser. While sometimes irritating, pop-ups may be essential for certain websites to function properly. Nearly all web browsers disable pop-ups by default, but you can disable pop-up blocking on all major web browsers except for Firefox on Android phones and tablets. If you've installed a third-party pop-up blocker, you'll need to remove it as well, as it may also be blocking pop-ups.
1. **Open Google Chrome .** It's the red, yellow, green, and blue sphere app icon.
2. **Click the menu ⋮.** It's the three vertical dots at the top-right corner of Chrome.
3. **Click Settings.** It's near the bottom of the menu.
4. **Click the Privacy and security tab.** It's in the left panel.
5. **Click Site Settings.** It's in the right panel under "Privacy and security." Additional options will expand.
6. **Click Pop-ups and redirects.** It's under the "Content" header toward the bottom of the page.
7. **Select Sites can send pop-ups and use redirects.** This is the first option at the top of the page. As long as this option is selected, websites can show pop-ups in Chrome.
If you'd rather just allow pop-ups on some sites, click next to "Allowed to send pop-ups and use redirects" at the bottom of the page, enter the website's main URL (e.g., https://www.wikihow.com), and then click .
You can also unblock pop-ups from a specific site when viewing a website that tries to display one. When a pop-up is blocked, you'll see "Pop-up blocked" and icon that looks like a window with a red-and-white X in the address bar. When the window opens, click and choose . Refresh the page so the settings take effect.
8. **Open Google Chrome .** Tap the Chrome app icon, which is the yellow, blue, and red sphere in your app list.
9. **Tap the three horizontal dots at the bottom-right corner of Chrome.** A menu will expand.
If you just want to unblock pop-ups from a single site, open the page that displays pop-ups, tap at the bottom, and then tap .
10. **Tap Settings.** It's at the bottom of the menu.
11. **Scroll down and tap Content Settings.** This option is near the bottom of the menu.
12. **Tap Block Pop-ups.** If you see "Off" next to "Block Pop-ups," pop-ups are not currently blocked. But if you see "On," tap this option to continue.
13. **Tap the blue "Block Pop-ups" switch to disable pop-ups.** The switch will turn white or gray, which means pop-ups are no longer blocked.
14. **Tap Done.** It's in the top-right corner of the screen. This saves your changes.
15. **Open Google Chrome .** Tap the Chrome app icon, which is a green, yellow, blue, and red sphere.
16. **Tap the three-dot menu ⋮.** It's in the top-right corner of the screen next to the address bar.
If you just want to unblock pop-ups from a single site, open the page that displays pop-ups, tap at the bottom, and then tap .
17. **Tap Settings.** This option is near the bottom of the menu.
18. **Tap Site Settings.** You may have to scroll down a little to see this option.
19. **Tap Pop-ups and redirects.** This displays the pop-ups control switch.
20. **Toggle the "Pop-ups and redirects" switch to the On position .** This allows pop-ups in Google Chrome.
If the switch is already on (blue), there's no need to make any changes.
21. **Open Microsoft Edge.** You'll find its blue-green wave icon on your Windows Start menu or in your Mac's Applications folder.
22. **Click the three horizontal dots ⋯.** It's at the top-right corner of Edge.
23. **Click Settings.** This option is at the bottom of the menu.
24. **Click Cookies and site permissions.** This tab is on the left side of the Settings page.
25. **Scroll down and click Pop-ups and redirects.** You'll find this under "All permissions" in the right panel.
26. **Click the blue "Block pop-ups" switch .** The switch will turn white, which tells Edge to allow pop-ups.
If you want to allow pop-ups from a particular site, just click next to "Allow" and enter the site's URL (e.g., https://www.wikihow.com).
27. **Open Safari.** Click the compass-shaped Safari app icon in your Mac's Dock to do so.
If you just want to enable pop-ups for a particular website, go to that website now. Once the site is open, continue to the next step.
28. **Click the Safari menu.** This menu item is in the top-left corner of the screen. A drop-down menu will appear.
29. **Click Preferences….** It's near the top of the drop-down menu. Doing so prompts a window to open.
30. **Click the Websites tab.** This is the globe icon at the top of the window.
31. **Click Pop-up Windows.** It's at the bottom of the left panel.
32. **Select Allow from the "When visiting other websites" menu.** This menu is at the bottom-right corner of the screen. When selecting this option, all pop-ups will be allowed through Safari.
If you just want to enable pop-ups for one website, click the menu to the right of its name in the "Currently Open Websites" panel and select .
33. **Open your iPhone's Settings .** This is the gray gear icon on your home screen or in your App Library.
34. **Scroll down and tap Safari.** It's about a third of the way down the Settings page.
35. **Toggle the "Block Pop-ups" switch to the Off position .** It's in the "GENERAL" section. Turning this switch off allows all pop-ups through Safari.
36. **Open Firefox.** You'll find it in your Windows Start menu or your Mac's Applications folder.
If you just want to unblock pop-ups on a specific website, go to that website. When it tries to show a pop-up, you'll see a yellow bar running along the top of the browser that says "Firefox prevented this site from opening (number of) pop-up windows." To allow pop-ups from this site, click the button on the yellow bar and select .
37. **Open your Firefox Settings.** The steps are a little different depending on your operating system:
Click the three horizontal lines at the top-right corner and select .
Click the menu in the menu bar and select .
38. **Click the Privacy & Security tab.** It's on the left side of the window.
39. **Uncheck the "Block pop-up windows" box.** This option is near the bottom of the "Permissions" section in the right panel. Removing the checkmark allows pop-ups to come through in Firefox.
Alternatively, you can click to the right of the "Block pop-up windows" box, type in a website's address, click , and click to allow pop-ups for a specific site, but not your entire browser.
40. **Open Firefox on your iPhone.** Tap the Firefox app icon, which is the orange fox wrapped around a purple globe.
There is no longer a way to allow pop-ups in the Android version of Firefox. This is because the latest versions of Firefox disable the advanced configuration editor. If pop-ups are necessary, use Google Chrome.
41. **Tap the three horizontal lines ☰.** This icon is at the bottom of the screen. This displays the menu.
42. **Tap Settings.** This is the gear icon at the bottom of the menu.
43. **Tap the blue "Block Pop-up Windows" switch .** This disables pop-up blocking, allowing you to see pop-ups when browsing with Firefox. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Allow-Pop%E2%80%93ups", "language": "en"} |
How to Treat Sudden Cardiac Arrest | Sudden cardiac arrest is the leading cause of death among adults over the age of 40 in the United States and other countries. About as many people die each year from SCA as die from Alzheimer's disease, assault with firearms, breast cancer, cervical cancer, colorectal cancer, diabetes, HIV, house fires, motor vehicle accidents, prostate cancer and suicides combined. However, with cardiopulmonary resuscitation (CPR) and the use of an AED, survival rates increase to 38%. Learn how to treat sudden cardiac arrest so that you will know what to do in an emergency.
1. **Watch for a sudden collapse or fainting.** Someone who has just experienced cardiac arrest may lose consciousness and fall to the ground without warning. If you notice someone collapse or faint, go over to the person right away.
2. **Check for a pulse** If someone has just had sudden cardiac arrest, then that person will not have a pulse. Check the person’s radial or carotid pulse to see if you can detect anything.
The radial pulse is located on your wrist just under the base of the thumb/palm. Feel around the person’s wrist, using your index (first finger) and middle finger on one hand until you find the pulse. If you can't feel a beating pattern than there is no pulse.
The carotid pulse is located on the neck. The carotid arteries are just underneath the jaw on both sides of the neck. Press the same two fingers on one side of the neck in the soft hollow area just beside the person’s Adam’s apple.
3. **See if the person is breathing correctly** A person who has experienced a sudden cardiac arrest will either be gasping for air or not breathing at all. "Look, listen, and feel" if the person is breathing or not. Watch for lung movement to determine if the person is getting any oxygen. Keep in mind that time is critical and every minute that the person is without oxygen increases his risk of permanent brain damage.
Place your hands, palms down, on the person’s chest. Then, check to see if you can feel or see a rise and fall of the chest indicating breathing. An alternative method is to listen for breathing by placing your ear close to the person’s mouth.
4. **Determine if the person is alert.** A person who has had sudden cardiac arrest will not be alert either. This means that if you say something to the person, she will not respond or make any sign that she has heard you.
Medical practitioners and first-responce assistants suggest using the C.O.W.S system: an you hear me? pen your eyes! hat's your name? queeze my hand (gently place your hand on their palm)!
5. **Tell someone to call 911 or call yourself if no one else is around.** This should be your first priority. Someone who has suffered sudden cardiac arrest will need immediate medical attention and will need to be taken to a hospital for the best chances of survival. Make sure that you call for help right away or have someone else do so.
Do not just shout for anyone to call 911. If there are other people around, select one person, look him in the eye, and tell him to contact emergency services. Say something like, "You, the man in the red shirt! Call 911 now!"
6. **Locate an AED.** If you are somewhere that might have a public AED (cardiac defibrillator), ask someone to try to locate it and bring it to you. If one is available right away, then use it. An AED can analyze the heart rhythm, deliver life-saving shocks, and provide instructions as well as images to help you revive the person.
7. **Check for breathing and a pulse again.** Quickly check the unconscious person’s pulse and breathing again to see if she has resumed breathing or if you can detect a pulse. If not, then you will need to start CPR.
Cardiopulmonary resuscitation allows manual compression of the heart to pump blood and manual assisted breathing to get oxygen to the person. Those who have no pulse and/or are not able to breath on their own require immediate CPR.
8. **Position the victim.** Make sure the person is lying face up. You will need to be able to press on the person’s chest and deliver breaths, so turn the person over if he is not lying face up.
If you suspect head and/or neck injury, do not move the person. This may result in paralysis or other serious complications. Provide as much aid as you can without moving the person.
9. **Get yourself into position.** Before you start delivering CPR, take a moment to make sure that you are in the right position. Place the heel of one of your hands on the center of the chest over the lower part of the bony center (breastbone). Place the heel of the other hand over top on the first hand. Straighten your arms and make sure your shoulders are directly over your hands.
10. **Begin compressions** Once you are in position, you can begin compressions. Push down hard and fast. Your compressions should press down a minimum of two inches on the chest and allow for full chest recoil as well.
Your pace should be such that you are delivering about 100 compressions per minute. An easy way to keep this pace is to deliver compressions to the beat of the song "Stayin' Alive."
11. **Deliver two breaths of air after every 30 compressions.** You should count your compressions so that you know when to deliver the two breaths. Before delivering the two breaths, tilt the person’s head by back slightly by placing the palm of one hand on the forehead and using your other hand to lift the chin. Once the head is tilted, pinch the person’s nose, cover the person's mouth with yours, and blow until you see the chest rise. Give the person two breaths. Each breath should take one second to deliver.
After completing 30 compressions, deliver the two breaths and then deliver 30 more compressions. Keep repeating the cycle until help or an AED arrives.
If you are not certified in CPR, you can skip the breaths. The emphasis for a bystander is on delivering chest compressions.
CPR is exhausting and can be intense (you may break the person's ribs while delivering compressions). It's okay to trade off with someone else if you become exhausted — it doesn't help if you are too tired to deliver CRP properly.
If you suspect head or neck trauma it is best not to perform the tilt technique, instead a jaw thrust should be performed so as not to aggravate the neck. Place the palms of your hand over the person’s cheek bone and place fingers under the angle of the jaw and lift the jaw upward.
12. **Understand what an Automated external defibrillator (AED) does.** The heart pumps blood or beats due to an internal electrical system. This allows the heart to beat at a constant rhythm. When this system malfunctions or stops, the heart stops beating or beats irregularly losing its rhythm. An AED is a portable device that checks the heart rhythm and can send an electric shock to the heart to try to restore a normal rhythm if necessary.
If an AED is available, then use it immediately! If it is not available, then continue CPR until it is or until help arrives.
It is safe to use an AED on a pregnant woman. Defibrillation does not transfer any significant electrical current to a fetus.
The AED machine only delivers a shock once it has analyzed the heart rhythm and determines if it is needed. If so, it will prompt everyone to stand clear of the person receiving the shock and not to touch them. However, you should still screen to make sure no one is in contact with the person before pressing the “shock” button by yelling "Clear!"
13. **Find someone who knows how to use an AED if possible.** A defibrillator works best when used by someone with proper training. In situations where lots of people are around, ask if anyone knows how to use a defibrillator. If no one is available, do not panic. The machine gives directions and voice prompts once it has been turned on, so that anyone can use it.
14. **Check for puddles or water near the person.** Water conducts electricity, so it is a bad idea to use an AED in wet conditions. You may end up shocking yourself and others as well as the victim. If you notice that the person is lying in or near a puddle, then move the person to a dry area before using the AED.
15. **Turn on the AED and follow the instructions it gives.** Although having some training in how to use an AED is ideal, the device will give you step-by-step instructions on how to use it. You'll hear voice prompts and/or see prompts on a screen. Follow the instructions carefully.
A 911 operator may also be able to help guide you as you use the device. If you are not sure how to work the AED and no one else is around, call 911 and ask for guidance.
16. **Expose the person's chest and attach the sensors.** If the person's chest is wet, dry it off. AEDs have sticky pads with sensors called electrodes. Apply the pads to the person's chest as pictured/described in the instructions or as described by the voice instructions.
Place one pad on the right center of the person's chest above the nipple.
Place the other pad slightly below the other nipple and to the left of the rib cage.
17. **Press the AED's "analyze" button.** The “analyze” button will check to see if the person has a pulse. Before you press the button, make sure no one is touching the person. Stay clear and instruct others to do the same while the machine checks the person's heart rhythm.
18. **Deliver a shock when the machine instructs you to.** If a shock is needed, the AED will let you know when to deliver it. Before you push the AED's "shock" button, stand clear of the person and make sure that others are clear as well.
19. **Resume CPR after the shock has been delivered.** After a shock has been delivered by the AED, resume CPR for two minutes. Give 30 compressions followed by two breaths. After two minutes of CPR check the neck artery for a pulse. If no pulse is present, press the “analyze” button to analyze the heart rhythm again and if a shock is advised deliver shock by pressing the “shock” button.
Repeat this process until help arrives or pulse returns. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-Sudden-Cardiac-Arrest", "language": "en"} |
How to Make Anise Tea | Anise tea is a herbal tea made from the plant Pimpinella anisum. It is also known as aniseed and is a spice native to the Eastern Mediterranean and South East Asian regions. Some of the things it is thought to be helpful for include the digestive system, colic, bronchitis, and nausea but don't substitute it for proper medical treatment; it's a gentle soothing aid, not a solution to serious complications. What makes this tea worthwhile making is its taste which is aromatic, sweet, and akin to licorice. It makes a warming, fragrant and spicy tea that is comforting.
1. **Boil the kettle.** Place 1 teaspoon of dried anise leaf or 3 teaspoons of fresh, crushed anise leaf or leaves into one cup of boiling water.
2. **Allow to steep for a few minutes.** It is now ready to serve.
3. **Boil the kettle.**
4. **Crush or grind 1 tablespoon of anise seeds.** A mortar and pestle is a good instrument for this purpose.
5. **Add 2 cups of boiling water to a saucepan.** Add the crushed seeds. Simmer gently for 5 to minutes.
6. **Serve.** It is now ready to serve as it is. However, you may wish to add milk, as with ordinary tea.seeds:
7. **Crush the anise seeds if you haven’t done so already.** This releases their fragrant oils and makes certain that the tea will taste marvelous.
8. **Place the crushed anise seeds into the intended mug or cup.**
9. **Pour the boiling water into the cup.**
10. **Allow to steep for 10 to 15 minutes.** Yes, the tea will cool but the flavor depth will benefit greatly from a long steeping time. Once it is has steeped sufficiently, it is ready to serve.
11. **Substitute the water in any of the above recipes with warm milk.** Anise tea can be particularly delicious if it is brewed using warm milk instead of the water. Made with milk, it is an ideal drink to enjoy just before going to bed, as anise is reputed to induce sleep. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Anise-Tea", "language": "en"} |
How to Care for Your Ball Python | Ball pythons are a very popular choice for many people who are looking for a pet snake. Like all snakes, ball pythons will require you to be fully committed to their care. These snakes will live for up to thirty years and you must maintain a very specific environment to keep them healthy. Properly caring for your ball python can be very rewarding and will give them a comfortable life.
1. **Be aware of their size.** All snakes, including ball pythons, will grow quite a bit over the course of their lives. Ball pythons in particular will grow quite large and will require a proper living environment as they do. You should be prepared for this before you attempt to care for a ball python.
Female ball pythons will grow to around 3' to 5' in length, males to around 2' to 3'.
You will need to provide enough space for a fully grown ball python.
You will need to feed a snake of this size large rodents. If you are not sure about the appropriate size for your snake, you can see a rat size chart for that.
2. **Understand the long-term commitment.** Caring for any animal is a serious commitment. You will need to feed, clean and maintain the health of your ball python over the course of its entire life. Make sure you are ready for a long-term commitment before deciding to care for a ball python.
Ball pythons have lived up to 40 years.
Generally, ball pythons will live between 20 to 30 years.
3. **Look to purchase a ball python.** Once you've decided that you can provide proper care for a ball python it's time to go find your new friend. Thankfully, ball pythons are very popular amongst pet owners and they are easy to find in most pet stores. Start looking for a ball python that is right for you once you feel prepared to care for it.
Reptile breeders will likely have ball pythons available.
Attending a reptile expo can also help you find your new ball python.
Ball pythons should already be eating and well fed before you buy them.
4. **Know how to handle a ball python.** Snakes aren't used to being held in the wild. As a result, you will need to know when it's acceptable to hold your snake and when it will only cause stress. Take a look at some of these key ideas when considering if it's the right time to interact with your snake:
Allow your snake to eat one meal in its new home before trying to handle it. Wait at least a week before handling new snakes. Don't be afraid to hold the snake after that week.
Young snakes should be held no more than once a week.
Adult snakes can be held around once a week.
Don't interact with your ball python after it's eaten. Wait around two days after your snake eats to make sure it is comfortable.
5. **Be attentive.** If you plan on caring for a ball python, you will need to be dedicated to maintaining and protecting its health. Keeping your snake healthy will require you to watch its behavior and actions for any changes or indications of illness. Keep an eye out for some of these common signs of illness:
A ball python should normally sit in a coil. Snakes that lay straight out or keep their head up may be ill.
Ball pythons that spend a lot of time soaking may be ill or uncomfortable.
In the case of respiratory issues, your snake may wheeze or have mucus come out from its nose.
Runny or bloody stool can indicate a digestive issue. Snakes who don't void after ten days may be constipated.
Refusal of food may indicate an infection.
6. **Ensure the python can stretch out in the cage.** Ball pythons will need just the right amount of room to feel comfortable. Cages or enclosures that are too large or too small will stress the snake out and make its life uncomfortable. Keep these tips in mind when you are looking for a new home for your ball python to enjoy:
The container needs to be long enough that an snake can completely stretch out in it.
Mesh cage lids can work. However, it can be difficult maintaining humidity levels in the cage.
For younger snakes, you will need to find a smaller enclosure.
7. **Spot clean often.** It's important to keep your snakes enclosure very clean. Keeping the cage clean will help keep your ball python happy and healthy. Part of your regular cleaning routine should include spot cleaning. Spot cleaning will allow you to keep up with any messes and require you to fully clean the cage less often.
Remove any waste from your snake every day.
Any other obvious messes left in the cage should be removed.
8. **Clean the cage thoroughly.** A big part of caring for your ball python is fully cleaning its enclosure. It's generally recommended that you fully clean the cage and everything in it once a month. Totally cleaning the cage will help keep your snake healthy and prevent any health issues over time.
Take your snake out of the enclosure during the time you are cleaning.
Remove everything in the cage for cleaning. Any sticks, hiding boxes, or other decorations will need to be cleaned.
You can clean the cage with a water and bleach solution. Make sure the bleach content is only 5%.
Wait for the cage to fully dry before putting it back together and reintroducing your ball python.
9. **Ensure the snake can't escape.** Snakes are well known for being escape-artists. You will need to make sure that your ball python's cage is secure, keeping it safely inside. Keep some of these things in mind when securing your snake's cage:
Any doors or openings need to be closed and locked.
Lids need to be secure. Your snake shouldn't be able to push the lid away from the cage.
Make sure there are no small gaps or openings that your snake can escape from.
10. **Keep a temperature gradient.** In a natural environment, your snake will move between areas that have different temperatures. Snakes are cold-blooded and the temperature will change their level of activity. To replicate this, you will need to maintain your ball python's enclosure with a temperature gradient.
The basking area should be 88 to 96 degrees Fahrenheit.
The overall temperature of the cage should be 78 to 80 Fahrenheit.
Use two thermometers to monitor both the cool and warm areas of the cage.
You can heat the cage with under-cage warming pads or heating lights.
11. **Consider additional lighting.** Supplemental lighting can be used in your ball python's enclosure. However, it is not a requirement. If you want to use additional lighting, try using a full-spectrum UV light. Consider adding supplemental lighting to help make your enclosure feel even more natural and comfortable.
Use 12 hour cycles of lighting. Keep the light on for 12 hours during the day and off for 12 hours at night.
Do not leave the light on at night. Leaving the light on too long will stress your snake out.
12. **Maintain the right humidity.** Creating and maintaining the right level of humidity is very important for your snakes health. Humidity will help keep your snake healthy and allow them to easily shed their skin. Always keep a close eye on the humidity levels in the cage to best care for your ball python.
Humidity needs to be between 50% to 60%
13. **Provide a quality substrate.** Your ball python will need to have the right substrate in order to be comfortable and safe in its home. Certain substrates will work better than others, keeping your ball python happy and making the enclosure easier to clean. Take a look at some of the following examples of substrates to learn what's okay to use:
Aspen shavings will work well.
Cypress mulch is okay to use.
Most other mulch based substrates can be a good pick.
Never use substrates that contain cedar or pine.
14. **Provide hide boxes.** Your ball python will want a place to hide and be alone. If your snake is forced to be left out in the open, it will become nervous and stressed out. Always provide a hide box for your ball python to help them feel comfortable and at home.
Make sure you clean the hide box whenever you clean the cage.
You can buy premade hide boxes from pet stores.
Make your own hides by cutting a small, round door out of a plastic Tupperware container or bowl.
15. **Find the correct size prey.** It's important that you provide the right size prey to your ball python. Prey that is either too small or too large will present problems for your snake. Always make sure that whenever you introduce prey into the cage that it's the correct size.
Prey should be no bigger than the widest part of the snake.
Prey that is too large can cause injury to your snake.
Prey that is too small may not provide enough nutrition.
16. **Do not touch the snake after feeding.** Snakes need time to be alone and digest their meal after they've eaten. Disturbing or handling your snake after a meal can cause them to regurgitate that meal. Always wait at least one full day before handling your ball python after they've eaten.
17. **Remove uneaten food after every feeding.** If your snake doesn't eat a prey item, you will need to remove it. Leaving dead or living prey items in the cage can pose health hazards to your snake. Always remove old prey items from the cage to best care for your ball python.
Feeding pre-killed items to your snake is safer. However, these items will decompose and need to be removed if left uneaten.
Feeding live prey animals can bring harm to your snake. Mice or rodents have been known to attack and kill ball pythons.
18. **Feed on a schedule.** It's important that you stick to a schedule when feeding your ball python. The regularity will benefit your snake and will allow you to notice if your snake has any changes in its appetite. Try to follow these basic feeding schedules to best care for your snake's dietary needs:
For adult ball pythons, offer food once every one or two weeks.
For young ball pythons, offer food once or twice a week.
Appetites may change normally over the year. Colder months usually result in lowered appetites.
19. **Provide water.** Your ball python will also need a place to find water in their enclosure. Providing water will give your snake a place to relax and enjoy a good soak. Keep some of these tips in mind when providing water for your ball python:
Young snakes should only have about 1” of water.
Make sure the container can't be tipped over.
Water temperature should be between 72 and 79 degrees Fahrenheit.
Your snake will often defecate in the water. Change the water at least once a week. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Care-for-Your-Ball-Python", "language": "en"} |
How to Sell a TV | If you bought a new TV and you don't have any use for your old one, selling it is a great way to get rid of it and make money. Selling a TV is easiest to do locally, like through Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist, so you don't have to ship it. When you sell the TV, make sure you ask for a reasonable price and list all of the details. With competitive pricing, your TV will sell quickly!
1. **Locate the model number on the back of the TV.** All TVs have a specific model number so stores and manufacturers know what features each one has. Look on the back side of the TV near where the cables plug in. The model number will be either on a sticker or printed directly on the TV. Write down the model number so you don't forget it.
You can also find the model number if you have the TV's original packaging or instruction manual.
2. **Look up the current selling price of your TV online.** Type the model number of your TV into a search engine to see what the price is new. Many times, the price of the TV will drop from the original list price within a few months.
Many websites track the Amazon selling prices so you can easily see how the price has changed over time.
CRT TVs that are boxy and have tubes inside them may not have a current list price since they aren't made anymore and not many people are trying to buy them.
3. **Set the price of your TV at 20-30% off of the current selling price.** Take the current list price of the TV and multiply it by 0.2 or 0.3 to find the discount. Subtract that amount from the list price to find the asking price for your TV. You can start listing your TV at a higher price and always negotiate down if you want.
For example, if your TV's current list price is $200 USD, the amount you would subtract would be $40 USD for 20% and $60 USD for 30%. List your TV between $140-$160 USD.
Don't base your selling price off of what you originally paid for the TV. The older a certain TV model is, the cheaper it will be.
4. **Compare your price to similar items on online marketplaces.** Go on websites like eBay or Craigslist and look up your TV by the model number. Look at what other sellers are asking for their TV and what others have sold for recently. If you want to price your TV so it's more likely to sell, set it equal to or just below what other people are asking for.
Checking online marketplaces is best for old CRT TVs that may not have current list prices.
5. **Choose to sell the TV locally to avoid shipping costs.** Shipping a TV can be expensive and it could get damaged in transit. Avoid selling on sites like eBay or through Amazon. Instead, look for local online marketplaces, such as Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace. That way, you can have other people come to pick up the TV from your home rather than delivering it.
Facebook marketplace requires you to make an account.
6. **Write a description of the TV's size and features.** Be sure to include the model number of your TV in the description so other people can look it up easily. Be sure to include the dimensions of the TV, how old it is, the brand, and any damage it may have. Fill out the description in detail so buyers know exactly what to expect from the purchase.
For example, you may write something like: “Samsung QN65Q6FN 47” 4K Smart TV from 2016. Includes remote, instruction manual, and original box. Has a small scratch on the side, but doesn't affect the picture.”
Avoid listing only the brand and size since there are many different TVs that have the same dimensions but have different features.
7. **Take pictures of your TV to show its condition.** Use your phone or a digital camera to take high-quality photos of the TV so buyers can see exactly what it looks like. Make sure to include a picture of the ports on the back of the TV so people know what they can or cannot plug into it. If you listed any damage on the TV, take a picture showing the extent of it.
Avoid using marketing photos or pictures of just the box since it may look like you're trying to scam buyers.
8. **List an email or phone number so buyers can reach out to you.** Include a phone number and email address where buyers can reach you if they're interested in the TV. Ask them to reach out to you with any inquiries or if they want more information if they need it. Once you've listed the information, the item will be visible in the marketplace.
If you don't want to give out your main email or phone number, consider making a second email account or getting a disposable cell phone.
9. **Be willing to negotiate the price with a buyer.** Choose a price that is the lowest you'll accept for your TV. That way, if someone asks if you're willing to sell it for cheaper, you can tell them a price within that range to accept. If a buyer asks for a lower price, you can still try to ask them for more money, especially if you just listed the TV or it's below your minimum.
For example, if you're asking $160 USD for your TV, you may accept anything as low as $140 USD.
Don't list the TV for the lowest price you can or else buyers will try to ask for less.
10. **Ask for cash only for the transaction.** Be upfront and ask for payment in cash so you don't get scammed by the buyer. Make sure you have enough cash on you in case you need to make change for them.
Don't take personal checks or money orders for your TV since they could be scams.
You may also take digital payments through apps like Venmo or Paypal since you'll receive the funds immediately.
11. **Let the buyer see try the TV to make sure it works.** If the buyer is interested in your TV, see if they want to come test it before they pick it up and pay for it. Keep the TV plugged in so the buyer can look at the picture and see how it works. If they're happy with it, ask them to pay for it to complete the sale.
Have another person with you when the buyer comes over so you don't have to be alone with them. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Sell-a-TV", "language": "en"} |
How to Deal with Oppositional Defiant Disorder | Oppositional defiant disorder (ODD) occurs in children, and affects six to 10% of all children. It can be challenging to parent a child with ODD, as it may feel like there’s a constant power struggle and you just can’t seem to get along. It’s important to understand your child and to make any necessary adjustments in how you approach managing behavior.
1. **Identify symptoms of ODD.** Children with ODD tend to exhibit certain behaviors that identify ODD, usually beginning in preschool and almost always presenting before the early teen years. While all children experience behavior difficulties, a child with ODD will display a "frequent and persistent pattern" of hostile and disobedient behavior. If you identify four or more of the following behaviors in your child that cause problems at home, school, and other environments, which have lasted six months or more, take your child to a therapist to see if he fits a formal diagnosis:
Loses temper often
Argues frequently with adults
Refuses to comply with requests from adults
Deliberately annoys people, is easily annoyed by others
Blames others for his mistakes or misbehavior
Is angry or resentful
Is spiteful or vindictive
2. **Notice a tendency toward victimhood.** Children with ODD often experience themselves as victims, and believe that their actions of punching a wall or hurting another child are justified. Remind the child that she is allowed to feel angry, resentful, and upset. She may even be a victim in a situation. However, often the reaction is more severe than the original offense.
3. **Discuss your child's reactions.** While your child may be rightfully upset, he is in charge of his behaviors and reactions. Nobody made him react in a harmful or negative way; he chose it. Acknowledge that bad things happen, but that it’s his decision how to respond to things, even when something unfair happens.
Ask your child, “If someone is mad at you, is it okay if she hits you? What about if you’re mad at someone? Can you hit him? What’s the difference?”
4. **Acknowledge the need to be in control.** Children with ODD often will go to extreme lengths to feel in control. You may start by discussing your child hitting his sibling, and end up in a power struggle about something unrelated. Instead of engaging the struggle, disengage from the situation. You can steer the conversation back to the original point, or you may choose to walk away.
Recognize when your child is arguing to defend himself or whether it is coming from a place of wanting power.
5. **Talk about constructive ways to handle a difficult situation.** Your child doesn't just need to know how not to respond, but how to respond well. You can discuss or even role-play situations to help them learn constructive responses. Talk about...
Taking deep breaths or counting to calm down
Setting boundaries, such as "I need some alone time" and "Please don't touch me."
Using "I" language
What to do when someone else doesn't respect their boundaries or feelings
Getting help when they are upset or confused
6. **Learn how to communicate effectively with your child.** When trying to communicate with your child — whether it be a request, a reprimand, or praise — there are ways to communicate that are helpful and productive, and ways that will impede communication and possibly trigger bad behavior.
Try to communicate calmly, clearly, and using short, to-the-point explanations. State what you want and expect using direct language.
Make eye contact and maintain relaxed or neutral facial expressions, gestures, and posture.
Ask your child questions and listen to his answers. Discuss what is happening in the present, not things he did in the past, and try to be solution-oriented.
Do not lecture your child, yell, name call, bring up old problems, make assumptions about your child or his behavior, or use negative body language.
7. **Respond without anger.** While it’s difficult to remove your own emotions from a situation, do your best to respond to your child without anger. State what has happened, why it’s not okay, and what needs to change. Follow through with any consequences relating to the behavior. Then, remove yourself from the situation and don’t engage in any conflict.
If you find yourself becoming angry, take some deep breaths to help center yourself, or repeat a phrase that helps you such as “I am calm and relaxed”. Take some time before responding in order to avoid saying anything you may regret.
8. **Step away from the blame game.** Don’t blame your child (“My child is ruining my life. I have no time for myself because I’m always disciplining her”) and don’t blame yourself (“If only I was a better parent, my child wouldn’t act like this.”) If you find yourself caught up in these thoughts, take a step back and acknowledge how you are feeling. Remember that your child is not responsible for your emotional well-being; only you are responsible for how you feel.
Take responsibility for your own feelings and actions, and show yourself to be a role model for your child.
9. **Be consistent.** Inconsistent parenting can be confusing for a child. If a child sees an opportunity to get something that they desire, they will most likely take it. They may try to wear down your defenses in order for you to give in and say yes. When in conflict, be consistent in how you respond. Be clear in your expectations and strong in your willpower to enforce the guidelines.
Create a positive behaviors and consequences chart, which lets your child know what will happen with certain behaviors. Being clear and consistent is helpful for knowing what to expect for both you and your child. Reward good behavior and respond to bad behavior with appropriate consequences.
If your child tries to wear you down, be clear. Say "No means no" or "Do I look like the kind of dad who will change his mind if you keep asking?" Try a simple, business-like response, such as, "This is not up for discussion," or, "I'm not arguing over this. This discussion is over."
10. **Adjust your thoughts.** If you come into a discussion assuming your child is trying to annoy you or cause a problem, this will color how you respond. It’s natural to push back when someone pushes against you, even when it’s your child. Don’t expect your child to correct these behaviors on his own, he needs guidance. When you start to have negative thoughts about your child, replace them with more positive ones.
If you find yourself thinking, “My son is always trying to start a fight and never knows when to let go”, replace that thought with, “Every child has strengths and difficulties. I know with my consistent effort, I will help my child build the skills he needs to express himself productively.”
11. **Identify family and environmental stressors.** Consider what sort of home life your child has. Is there constant fighting or is a family member struggling with substance abuse problems? Do you spend very little time with your child, or does she watch excessive amounts of TV or play video games for hours? Identify both obvious and more subtle ways the home environment may be negatively affecting your child, then work to change those things.
Consider limiting TV or gaming time, having mandatory family dinners, and seeking counseling if you and your partner are constantly fighting. If there is substance abuse or a mental health disorder in the family, help that person begin treatment.
Other potential environmental or family stressors include economic stress, parental mental illness, severe or harsh punishment, multiple moves, and divorce.
12. **Help identify emotions.** Your child may experience anger or frustration but not know how to express these emotions in a positive or constructive way. If you notice your child is angry, label the emotion for them. Say, “It seems like you’re angry.” Identify feelings in others and in yourself. Say, “Sometimes I feel sad, and when I feel sad, I don’t want to talk to people and I keep my head down.”
Talk about how feelings can be expressed. For instance, say, “How can you tell when someone is upset? When do you notice when someone is happy? What does it look like when someone is mad?” Talk about ways that your child experiences and expresses emotions.
13. **Emphasize the importance of boundaries and respect.** Make it clear that both your child and other people have the right to set boundaries, and to have others respect those boundaries. Learning the basics of consent can help your child recognize why hitting, poking, or kicking others is not okay.
Enforce others' boundaries as needed. For example, "Your sister said she doesn't want a hug, just a high five. It's important to respect that."
Enforce your child's boundaries as well. For example, if another child plays with your daughter's hair, even after your daughter has asked them to stop, give the other child a stern look and say that this is not okay.
14. **Begin treatment as soon as possible.** Children with ODD can improve — studies have shown up to 67% of children diagnosed with ODD will be symptom-free within three years if they receive treatment. The sooner you address and begin to treat ODD and any co-existing conditions, the better your child's chances are of improving.
Unfortunately, 33% of children diagnosed go on to develop Conduct Disorder (CD). This is considered a more serious disorder that can lead to antisocial behavior (such as cruelty toward people or animals, initiating physical fights, arson, and/or forcing someone into sexual activity).
15. **Seek a therapist for your child.** If you’re having problems getting along with your child, chances are your child is struggling, too. While outwardly your child may be misbehaving, inwardly they may not know how to express their wants and desires in a way that is easily received. A therapist can help your child express himself in a more conducive way. They can help your child understand emotions, express emotions in a constructive way, and work through anger.
Behavior therapy serves to help children unlearn negative behaviors, and replace them with more positive behaviors. Therapy often involves parents to help enforce the new learned behaviors at home.
Therapy may help your child learn problem solving skills, empathy, social skills, and help reduce aggressive behaviors.
See if there is a social-skills program at the child's school or somewhere nearby. This program helps teach children to interact with their peers in a more positive way as well as help them improve school work.
16. **Treat co-occurring mental health conditions.** Often, children with ODD will also have another emotional problem or disability, such as anxiety, depression, or ADHD. If you suspect your child may have one of these disorders, make an appointment with a therapist in order to discuss a possible diagnosis. A child will not make progress with his ODD unless the co-existing disorder is treated as well.
17. **Attend parent-management training programs and family therapy.** While you may have found it less difficult to handle your other children and their problems, you may find yourself at a loss in how to parent your child with ODD. You may find it helpful to adjust your approach to parenting altogether. A parenting class can be beneficial in creating structure to your approach to parenting.
You may learn different ways to approach your child’s behavior, systems for managing behavior, and find support with other parents who are struggling with their kids.
Family therapy can help the entire family learn how to interact positively with the person with ODD, and can give other family members a voice. It can also help educate family members about ODD.
18. **Listen to teens and adults who experienced ODD.** Learn about what their parents did that helped them the most, and what they would like you to know as a parent. Because they have been in your child's position, they can offer great insight on how to handle things well.
19. **Join a parent support group.** A support group can offer help in a way that other resources cannot. Meeting with other parents who encounter similar struggles can be a relief as well as a way to share struggles and inspirations. You can begin friendships with other parents who encounter similar difficulties, and offer support to one another.
Check out online resources as well, such as Incredible Years, Center for Collaborative Problem Solving, and Parent-Child Interaction Therapy (PCIT).
20. **Supplement treatment with medication if necessary.** Medication alone is not a suitable treatment for ODD, but it can help treat co-occurring mental health conditions or reduce some of the more severe symptoms of ODD. Make an appointment with a psychiatrist and discuss whether or not medication is the right choice for your child.
Before pursuing medication, consider the following: whether the child has had a physical and psychiatric evaluation, if all other treatments have been attempted, possible side effects (weight gain, affecting growth, etc.), how medication will be given at home and at school, how to talk to the child about the medication and side effects, how to monitor for side effects. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Deal-with-Oppositional-Defiant-Disorder", "language": "en"} |
How to Make Your Own Lint Roller | Hair, dust, fur, and lint are everywhere. No house is so clean that it doesn't contain any, and no dryer is so effective to pluck it all out of your laundry. Lint rollers are great from removing these specks from your otherwise clean clothes, but if you don't have one, there are ways to make your own.
1. **Obtain the necessary materials.** You will need:
A cylindrical object. A cardboard tube may be the best option, but a thick wooden dowel would work as well. The circumference should be several inches in length; if the cylinder is too small it will not work as a roller.
Tape. Nearly any type of tape will do. Masking tape is probably closest to the sticky paper used on most lint rollers. Wide rolls of tape are the easiest to use, but any can be made to work.
Scissors (if the tape does not come with a cutting tool).
2. **Pull some of the tape from the dispenser roll.** Just pull 5–6 inches (12.7–15.2 cm) of tape loose at once. Do not cut it yet.
3. **Clasp the tape onto the roller.** Use a portion of the sticky side of the tape to attach it to the cylinder. After it is secure, gently wrap the tape around the cylinder in the opposite direction (glue side out). You may need to hold the tape in place with your finger for the first few moments after you change directions.
Leave the ends of the cylinder exposed. You can hold onto it at these ends.
If you are using narrow strips of tape, start by attaching the tape near one end of the cylinder, and then with each wrap move the tape further down toward the other end. After you approach the end of the side opposite to the one you started on, you can reverse the process. It will work best if you make sure there is a slight overlap as you wrap the tape around in order to stick the tape to itself.
4. **Wrap as much tape as you want around the cylinder.** You may find it most efficient to wrap an entire roll of tape at one time, enabling you to use the roller for quite some time before you will have to repeat this process again.
5. **Use your new lint roller.** Run the roller over the fabrics that need cleaning. As the exterior layers of tape become covered in lint, you can peel them off and expose the fresh layers below.
6. **Hold the fingers of your of your hands tight together.** You will substitute your hand for the roller.
7. **Wrap your hand in adhesive tape.** Keep the sticky side facing out.
You will probably only want to wrap it around your hand between 1 1/2 to 2 times. You need just enough so that the tape makes solid contact with itself. This is obviously a method of convenience (how long would you really want a tape roll on your hand anyhow?), so there is no need to use too much at a time.
Do not wrap the tape too tightly (you will see why in a moment).
8. **Run your hand over the lint-covered clothes.** The tape should stick to the fabric and roll around your hand as it goes (and this is why you shouldn't wrap it too tight).
9. **Discard of the tape when it becomes covered in lint.** You can repeat the process as many times as needed, and do so on very short notice. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Your-Own-Lint-Roller", "language": "en"} |
How to Make an Applique | Appliqués are the perfect way to jazz up plain articles of clothing, or make old clothes into something fresh and fun. They can also be used to make personalized gifts like t-shirts, tote bags, or caps for friends or loved ones. You can make an applique out of any design you can think up, so the sky’s the limit! Once you know how to make a basic design, you can combine layers to create more intricate ones.
1. **Pre-wash and iron all of your fabric.** This includes the fabric that you will be using for your appliqué as well as the item you will be attaching the appliqué to. The only instances where you should not wash the fabric is if you are using a non-washable material, such as felt or silk.
Wash the fabric first, then dry it. Iron it last to remove all wrinkles.
2. **Choose and create your design on a sheet of paper.** You can draw the design by hand, or use a stencil. You can even print the design off of the computer. Simple designs work the best for appliqués, especially if this is your first time making one.
Try to use a thick paper, such as cardstock. It will make tracing easier.
If you are doing letters, words, or numbers, reverse your design; it will come out the right direction in the end.
3. **Cut the design out.** You are now ready to start tracing it onto your interfacing. If your design has multiple layers of colors, such as a target sign, you will need to trace each color separately.
4. **Buy iron-on adhesive meant for appliqués.** There are lots of different types of iron-on, fusible interfacing. You must get the kind that has adhesive on both sides. When you buy it, one side will already have the adhesive visible; the other side will have paper on it.
5. **Trace your design onto the paper side of the interfacing.** If you can't tell which side is the paper side, look for the smooth side. The rough side is the glue side.
Use a fabric pen or pencil for this step to reduce the risk of ink bleeding/transferring onto the fabric.
You will eventually peel the paper side away, then iron the appliqué to your project.
6. **Cut the design out outside the lines you drew.** Do not cut along the lines just yet. Instead, cut at least ¼ inch (0.64 centimeter) outside the lines. You will be trimming the interfacing down further once you iron it to the fabric.
7. **Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of fabric.** Turn the fabric so that the wrong side is facing up. Place the interfacing down on top, glue-side-down. Press the interfacing with a hot, dry iron for 5 to 8 seconds.
Double-check the instructions on your interfacing to find out what heat setting you should use.
Some types of interfacing require that you cover it with an ironing cloth (ie: tea towel) first. Double-check the label!
8. **Cut the appliqué out.** Allow the appliqué to cool first. Once it is cool to the touch, cut it out along the lines that you drew.
9. **Peel away the paper backing.** Don't worry if the paper backing tears. The adhesive part of the interfacing should already be stuck to the fabric. Once you have the backing removed, your appliqué is ready to use!
If you are making a multicolored appliqué, now is the time to make the other shapes and colors.
10. **Place the appliqué onto the desired item.** You can apply appliqués to anything that can be ironed, from t-shirts to backpacks to tablecloths. Try different arrangements to figure out what placement you like best.
11. **Iron the appliqué according to the instructions on the package.** Each brand will be a little different, but in mot cases, you will have to cover the appliqué with an ironing cloth (ie: tea towel), then press it with a dry iron for 10 to 15 seconds.
If you have to use a damp ironing cloth, iron the appliqué again without the cloth to dry up any excess moisture.
12. **Pin a sheet of stabilizer to the back of the fabric, if needed.** If you will be doing a dense embroidery stitch, such as scalloped or satin, you should pin a sheet of stabilizer to the back of the project. If you will be doing a simple stitch, such as a straight, zigzag, or blanket, you do not need to add any stabilizer.
13. **Sew around the appliqué using your sewing machine.** A simple straight stitch will work for most designs, but you can also use a blanket stitch, a zigzag stitch, a decorative stitch, or even a satin stitch if you want to be fancier. Backstitch at the start and end of your sewing so that the stitches don't come undone.
You can match the thread color to the appliqué, or you can use a contrasting color.
If you are doing a zigzag stitch, match sure that you sew right up to the edge of the appliqué; don't sew over the edge.
If you will be satin stitching, consider doing a zigzag stitch for the first round.
14. **Add more layers, if needed you are sewing a multicolored appliqué.** If you cut your design apart into individual shapes/colors, you will need to repeat the entire process for each color/layer. Iron and sew each color/layer separately. Remember to match the thread to the different colors.
15. **Remove the stabilizer, if you added it.** How you remove it depends on the type you used. Some are water-soluble and dissolve when you wash the garment. Other have to be torn away.
16. **Trim off the excess threads.** If you ant to, you can also iron the project for that final touch. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Make-an-Applique", "language": "en"} |
How to Surprise Your Girlfriend | Whether you’re planning for her birthday, celebrating your anniversary, or just showing your love and appreciation, a fun surprise for your girlfriend is always a good idea. It’s easy for a couple to get so caught up in their lives that they forget to show their love for each other. That’s why we’ve compiled a list of cute and romantic surprises that you can use to wow your girlfriend and make her feel special.
1. **Your girlfriend will love a sweet hand-written note.** Sit down and write about all the things you love about her, and don’t be afraid to get specific! When you’re done, seal it inside an envelope and give it to her when she least expects it.
Don’t live near your girlfriend? No problem! Send her your letter in the mail for a lovely surprise.
You could also write little notes and leave them throughout your house! Try putting a few love notes in her coat pocket, her coffee cup, or underneath her pillow.
2. **Let her lounge in a warm bathtub full.** Run a bath full of warm water, and don’t forget a body-safe bath bomb! Light a few candles in the bathroom and leave some soap on the side. Let her soak for as long as she wants, and bring her a snack if she gets hungry.
Play her favorite music or read her a book while she sits in the bath.
3. **A mix of her favorite songs is sure to make her smile.** Curate a playlist on Spotify or YouTube full of songs you think she’d like (or ones that remind you of her). Send it to her or play it for her the next time you see her to watch her face light up with joy.
This is a great long distance gift idea! Since you can send a playlist anywhere, you don’t have to be in-person to give her this gift.
4. **This romantic date is super easy to do.** Pick your girlfriend up and drive to the highest spot near you, but don’t tell her where you’re going! Park in a spot where you can see the sunset clearly, then sit back and watch as it sets.
Don’t forget to bring a few snacks!
5. **Let your girlfriend relax by taking on some of her tasks.** If you know your girlfriend has been super busy with work or school, surprise her by doing the dishes, folding some laundry, or vacuuming the house. She’ll probably be super grateful, and you two can relax together afterwards.
You could also run an errand for her if she hasn’t had time, or go pick up some groceries for her.
6. **A public display of affection lets your girlfriend know you love her.** If you don’t usually engage in PDA, try surprising your girlfriend with a quick kiss or a hug the next time you two are out. If she likes PDA, she’ll be happy that you’re showing her affection where other people can see.
If you or your girlfriend aren’t into PDA, that’s totally fine! Pick a different surprise that she’ll like instead.
7. **Show off your chef skills and make your girlfriend happy.** Head to the store and buy all the ingredients for something delicious that your girlfriend will love. Surprise her by cooking her a full meal, and don’t forget to clean the kitchen afterward!
Try making pasta, lobster, or steak.
8. **If you’re a morning person, use your time to surprise your GF.** Wake up before she does and whip up something delicious, like pancakes, eggs, or bacon. Present it to her in bed on a tray so she can eat yummy food while she wakes up.
Pair your meal with a cup of coffee or tea to make it extra special.
9. **Move your lunch or dinner outside to make it extra special.** Pack up all the things you’ll need for a meal, and bring along a big blanket to sit on. Spread your food out at the park or in your backyard and enjoy a meal with a view!
If the weather is crummy or you don’t feel like going out, have a picnic inside instead! Spread out a big blanket in your living room and eat off of paper plates to make things feel special.
10. **Surprise her with something yummy that she’ll really like.** Grab her a delicious dessert or make her a nice dinner, then leave it in the fridge. Put a note on the outside that says “Open me!” When she comes home, she’ll probably be really excited about her special surprise.
You could also grab her a milkshake, a coffee drink, or some ice cream.
11. **If she forgot to bring food to work, take her something delicious.** Text or call her ahead of time to make sure it’s okay, then show up with her favorite food. If she has time, you could even sit and eat with her for an impromptu date while she’s on her lunch break!
Try packing a sandwich, some chips, and a drink for an easy lunch option that she’s sure to love.
12. **Give her something warm and cozy to fall asleep with.** If your girlfriend’s on her period or it’s just chilly outside, fill up a hot water bottle with water and place it on her side of the bed. When she comes in the room, let her know that it’s there for her to cuddle with as she drifts off to dreamland.
You could also use an electric heating pad.
13. **Use your trade skills to create something special for her.** If you’re good with your hands or you know how to do a craft, try creating something! A special gift that was made with love is sure to make her smile, and it doesn’t have to be perfect.
For instance, if you’re good at woodworking, you could make her a cutting board or a nice wooden box.
If you know how to knit, you could try making her a hat or a cozy scarf.
14. **Walk her down memory lane from the beginning of your relationship.** Head into Google Slides or PowerPoint and put together a few minutes of pics of the two of you. Start at the beginning of your relationship and keep going all the way up until the present to reminisce about sweet memories together.
If physical photos are more your thing, get a bunch printed out and go through them in-person together instead.
15. **Give her a gift she can hang on her wall.** Find a good picture of the two of you, then get it printed out at your local print shop. Pick up a nice frame and wrap it up, then hand off your surprise when she least expects it.
You can get photos printed fairly cheaply at most drug stores.
16. **Compile a ton of fun memories into one sweet book.** Get some photos printed out and then glue or tape them into a scrapbook. Fill it with your fondest memories, and don’t forget to make it look nice! When you give it to her, you can spend some time flipping through the pages together.
Use stickers, patterned paper, and Washi tape to make your scrapbook extra special.
17. **This classic gift makes almost every girl smile.** If it’s a special occasion or you just want to show your GF some love, stop by a florist and grab a bouquet of flowers. Give them to your girlfriend to cheer her up and make her happy.
To make those flowers last, buy a vase and keep them in water.
18. **Show your girlfriend that you remember everything she likes.** Grab a gift bag and fill it with fun goodies, like snacks, treats, and makeup. When she receives her gift, she’ll be so happy that you remembered her favorite things!
You could also buy notebooks, pens, stickers, nail polish, or stuffed animals.
For some cheap and easy gift ideas, visit the dollar section of your local home goods store.
19. **Relieve her stress and make her feel relaxed.** Have your girlfriend lay down and slowly massage her legs, her feet, her back, and her shoulders. If you really want to make things calming and cozy, light a few candles and turn on some soothing music.
Use some lotion to make your massage extra sensual and smooth.
20. **Get your GF in the mood with some new underwear.** If you want to surprise her with a sweet but sultry gift, pick out some lingerie that you think she might like. When she opens it, tell her how excited you are to see her in it the next time you two get intimate.
In a long distance relationship? No problem! Order her some lingerie online and have it delivered to her home.
21. **Make your home extra relaxing with dim lighting.** While your girlfriend is gone, turn down the lights and light a bunch of tea lights (or turn on battery-powered lights). When she comes home, have some relaxing music playing so she feels calm and tranquil.
This is also a good way to set the mood before getting intimate with her.
22. **Make your next time in the bedroom extra special.** While your girlfriend is out of the house, get some rose petals and sprinkle them on top of the bed. Add a few in the pathway leading up to the bedroom, then light a few candles. When she comes home, she’ll be surprised by all the planning that went into this romantic gesture.
Dim the lights and play some mood music to really get the vibes right.
23. **Book a day at the spa to let your girlfriend relax.** If it’s in your budget, call a local spa or salon and sign your GF up for a massage, a facial, and a pedicure. Drop her off for a wonderful day of relaxation with no obligations.
Don’t have a spa day in the bank? That’s okay! You can pamper your girlfriend at home. Buy a few face masks, some nail polish, and some fancy lotion, then offer her the same services that a salon would.
24. **Plan a romantic treasure hunt that ends in a candlelit dinner.** Write out cute clues that lead her around town, and leave little gifts at each one. At the end of the night, meet up with her and have a romantic dinner, just the two of you. Use clues like:
“I’m in the kitchen, and you’ll never eat me, but the dog sure loves to greet me.” (The clue is in or near dog food).
“Turn out the lights in the room and go rest your head on me. I’ll help you fall fast asleep.” (The clue is under her pillow).
25. **Relive your fondest memories by taking her out for the “first” time.** Think about where you two went when you first met. Then, take her out on the same (or extremely similar) date, down to what you eat! Reminisce about all the fun times you’ve had, and don’t forget to share your “first” kiss all over again.
26. **Surprise your girlfriend with a hotel or an Airbnb.** Make reservations for somewhere nearby, like at the beach or in the mountains. Ask her to clear her schedule, but don’t tell her why! Then, you two can take a romantic road trip and spend the weekend together just relaxing.
Make sure you double check her schedule before making any plans. Otherwise, there could be scheduling conflicts.
27. **Celebrate your girlfriend with her friends and family.** If your girlfriend’s birthday is coming up or she just achieved one of her goals, plan a huge party, but don’t tell her about it! Invite her closest friends and family members, then have them jump out when she least expects it.
Get your girlfriend out of the house by taking her on a shopping spree. Have a friend decorate the place while you’re gone, then come home to a party that your girlfriend will never forget.
28. **What’s something your girlfriend has always wanted to do?** If you really want to surprise her, make plans to check off that one thing she’s had in mind for years. It might take some planning, so start early!
If she’s always wanted to go skydiving, sign her up for a lesson.
If she’s always wanted to travel overseas, buy plane tickets for the two of you. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Surprise-Your-Girlfriend", "language": "en"} |
How to Retrain a Cat to Use the Litter Box | Has your cat stopped using the litter box? Understanding the reason for avoiding the litter box is critical to correcting your cat's behavior. The underlying cause is often a source of stress, such as a change in the household. Medical problems are another common culprit if your cat suddenly stops using the litter box, especially in senior cats.
1. **Move the litter box to the right location.** Cats may stop using the litter box after a scary experience in the area, such as a loud noise or harassment by another pet. They may also dislike the spot you chose after moving the litter box, or moving to a new home. Keep the litter box in a quiet, low-traffic spot where the cat can see people coming. Choose a room with at least two exits so the cat doesn't feel cornered.
Keep litter boxes away from food and water bowls. Cats do not like to combine these two areas.
Signs that your cat may have had an unpleasant experience in the litter box including running quickly in and out of the litter box, or using an area near the litter box. Try moving the box to a new room if you notice this.
Keep at least one litter box on every floor of a multistory home.
2. **Play with toys near the litter box.** Play with your cat in the same general area as the litter box. Leave toys (but not food) in the room so the cat spends time there and develops positive associations.
You can bring the cat to the litter box to investigate on its own, but do not drop it inside or reward it with treats for using it. These tactics can backfire by making the cat uncomfortable or afraid. Unlike dogs, cats should choose the litter box on their own, especially if they used one in the past.
3. **Keep the litter box clean.** If your cat perches on the edge of the box or eliminates right next to it, the box might be too dirty for it. Remove clumps and top up with fresh litter at least once a day, preferably twice. Rinse the litter box once a week with baking soda or unscented soap.
If you use non-clumping litter, change the whole box every couple days to prevent odor build up, which can drive away the cat.
Do not clean the litter box with scented products. Do not use a disinfectant unless it is specifically made for litter boxes, as many of them contain chemicals toxic to cats.
4. **Switch to new litter gradually.** If you bought a different kind of litter, introduce it slowly. Mix a little of it in with the old type, and gradually increase the proportion each time you change the litter box. Cats usually find it easier to adjust to unscented litter with a similar texture to their old litter.
If the old type of litter is no longer available, buy two or three new types. Put them in separate litter boxes side by side and let the cat choose its favorite.
Try adjusting the depth of the litter, especially if it has a different texture than the cat is used to. Many cats prefer a shallow layer of litter, less than two inches (5 cm.) deep. Long-haired cats often like an extra-shallow layer so they can dig to the floor of the box.
5. **Troubleshoot new litter boxes.** If your cat hasn't responded well to a recent litter box replacement, try these adjustments to make it more appealing:
Some cats prefer covered boxes, and other prefer open trays. Try adding or removing the hood.
Remove plastic liners from the litter box. These can snag a cat's claws.
Most cats adjust well to self-cleaning litter boxes but not all. There is a risk of an anxious cat being frightened by the motor, and refusing to use the box as a result. If in doubt it’s best to stick with a regular litter box.
If the box is smaller than the old one, you probably need to replace it with something larger. A large box with low sides works best; some people use a plastic sweater box.
6. **Clean up urine and feces with an enzymatic cleaner.** When the cat fails to use its litter box, clean the area with an enzymatic cleaner designed for cat urine (or a 10% solution of enzymatic washing powder in water). Rinse with cold water. This removes the smell of urine that can attract a cat to return to the same location.
For best results, lightly spray the area with rubbing alcohol after the water has dried. Scrub gently and let it air dry.
7. **Make soiled areas less appealing.** If your cat has developed a habit of going in certain locations, block its access to those areas, or find temporary ways to discourage it until it has relearned good habits:
If the cat uses a dark hiding spot, install a bright light, preferably motion-activated.
Make rugs or other areas unpleasant to stand on with tin foil or double-sided tape.
If the cat urinated on curtains, pin them up out of reach until the cat is back to using its litter.
Cover targeted furniture with plastic sheets or shower curtains.
Fill bathtubs and sinks with a shallow layer of water when not in use.
8. **Place litter boxes in the problem areas.** One solution is to give in to your cat's preferences and add new boxes in the areas it's using as a bathroom. Clearly this isn't ideal if your cat is using the center of the living room rug, but it's worth considering if the cat is soiling an out-of-the-way corner of your house.
Another option is to move the cat's food bowl to this location. Most cats will not eliminate and eat in the same place.
9. **Use your cat's preference to your advantage.** If none of these adjustments work, you may have to resort to a slower transition. For example, if your cat prefers to urinate on carpet, place a piece of similar carpet in the litter box. If the cat is willing to use that option, add a small amount of litter on top of the carpet the next day. Continue adding more litter and replacing the carpet when it gets too dirty, until the cat is transitioned to litter completely.
You may have to confine the cat to a non-carpeted area of the house for a while to get this option to work, or to roll up your carpets temporarily. Confinement can backfire if the cat is stressed or bored.
Similarly, if your cat is indoor/outdoor, or if your cat used to eliminate mostly outside, add garden soil or sand (without any fertilizer) to the box. Again, transition slowly from sand/soil to litter by adding small amounts of the new substrate to the preferred substrate a little at a time.
10. **Spay or neuter your cat.** This is not a requirement for litter training, but it does make urination outside the litter box much less likely. Unneutered males are especially likely to spray urine when they're stressed, not getting along with another male, or demonstrating their availability to a female cat.
The sooner this happens, the more likely the behavior will stop. If it goes on too long, the habit can persist even after surgery.
11. **Reduce stress in your cat** Just like humans, cats may experience stress from changes in their environment or schedule. Your cat may stop using the litterbox after a person or other animal leaves the household, or when a new one moves in. Some cats even respond badly to redecoration. Here are a few ways to help:
Provide private places where the cat can be on its own, including hiding spots and high perches.
If your cat is allowed outside, let it come and go whenever it likes.
Let your cat initiate contact, and be calm and consistent in your response. Some cats are stressed because they aren't getting enough playtime, while others dislike being pet or picked up whenever the owner feels like it.
If the cat's behavior continues, consult a veterinarian or animal behaviorist.
12. **Respond to vertical spraying.** If your cat backs up against a vertical surface, wiggles its tail, and releases a spray of urine, your cat is spraying. If you don't see it in action, look for roundish areas of strong-smelling urine a little higher up than the height of your cat's rear end, with streak marks running down to the baseboard or floor. Any cat can perform this territorial behavior, but it is most common in unneutered, male cats. Here's how to respond if your cat is spraying:
Spraying is often a response to stress or the presence of other cats. Follow the advice above to address this.
Spraying can be a response to a new neighborhood cat, especially if the spray is focused on a door, window, or air vent. Try to keep the cat out of your yard, or close the blinds so your cat can't see it.
About 30% of cats that vets examine for spraying have a medical condition. It's a good idea to have your cat examined, especially if you cannot find a solution.
13. **Replace small boxes as a kitten grows.** If you adopted your cat as a kitten, it may need a larger litter box once it grows up. The cat should be able to turn around comfortably, and still be able to find a clean spot if you miss a cleanup.
Cats dislike change, and may take a while to adapt to the new box. Follow the instructions above if problems continue.
14. **Clip away matted fur in long-haired cats** Some long-haired cats dirty the fur around their rear when they eliminate. This can cause painful or unpleasant experiences that the cat learns to associate with the litter box. If you notice this happening, carefully clip away matted fur from the area.
15. **Minimize damage when the owner is away.** Some cats react poorly when their owner is away. They may try to urinate somewhere with a strong scent of the owner, usually the bed. Instruct the pet sitter to keep the bedroom door shut, and provide extra litter boxes so the cat can always reach one without walking by the pet sitter.
If possible, hire a pet sitter the cat already knows, or at least introduce them before you leave.
16. **Improve behavior in multi-pet households.** Urine marking is a common reaction to conflict with another cat or dog, which can happen even if the animals got along in the past. For best results, make sure each animal can access resources without approaching the other:
Keep one litter box for each animal, plus one extra. Put each one in a separate location with at least two exit routes if possible.
Give each animal its own bed and food bowl. Keep these resources away from litter boxes and from each other.
Provide plenty of perches and hiding spaces for each cat.
17. **Separate animals if bad behavior continues.** If your cat still won't use the litter box, or still acts aggressive to the other animal, try a stricter method of separation. This is often necessary when bringing a new cat into the household:
Separate the cats into rooms with a closed door in between, so they do not see each other. Gather each cat's facial pheromones (forehead, cheeks, chin) on a small sock or gauze pad and put each sock in the others' space. Then, brush each cat to collect their facial pheromones and place one cat's pheromones on the other, creating a group scent.
Swap spaces so they can smell each other's scent in the environment.
Introduce them carefully, providing a high place and hidey holes for escape if one is aggressive to the other.
Consult a cat behaviorist if the cats simply can't get along.
18. **Assess whether your cat is having a hard time urinating.** If you see your cat straining while trying to urinate, or spending a long time trying with no result, take your cat to the vet immediately. Male cats in particular can develop urinary conditions where the urethra (the tube from the bladder to the penis) narrows or gets blocked. Typically small amounts of urine can pass until the cat is completely blocked and cannot urinate at all. This is a life threatening situation and needs immediate medical care. Blockages can also occur in the intestinal tract.
Some cats with a urinary infection or blockage spend a lot of time trying to urinate, licking their genitals, or crying at their owner.
19. **Evaluate whether your cat is having fecal issues.** Fecal constipation does occur in cats and can lead to chronic issues requiring special diets and laxatives. Diarrhea is not uncommon either, including chronic diarrhea related to inflammatory bowel disease. Any of these conditions are uncomfortable for the cat and may cause the cat to be afraid of the litter box or unable to get to the litter box in time to avoid an accident.
Many cats with inflammatory bowel disease only have occasional symptoms for no obvious reason. Appetite changes, lethargy, vomiting, or increased hairball production can be signs of intestinal discomfort.
20. **Improve physical access to the box.** If your cat is older or has an injury, it may not be able to get into the litter box as comfortably as it once could. Does your cat limp, need help jumping up to a chair or bed, have episodes of shaking legs, or seem painful around its spine or tail? If so, take the cat to the vet immediately! You may be able to make the cat more comfortable by getting a litter box with lower sides, or with a "doorway" cut into the side. You may need to consider a larger box so that the cat can turn around easily once inside.
An overweight cat may not fit comfortably in the box any longer. Get a larger box and place the cat on a diet. Consult with your veterinarian about safe weight loss strategies for your cat.
21. **Talk to your veterinarian to rule out other medical problems.** Urinating outside of the litter box often results from a feline medical issue, including urinary tract infections, diabetes mellitus, chronic renal disease, hyperthyroidism, bladder inflammation with or without urinary crystals, and intestinal issues (IBD). When in doubt, have a veterinarian conduct a medical checkup.
Observe your cat so you are prepared to answer your veterinarian's questions. Possible questions include: Does the cat urinate right by the litter box or further away? How large is the spot of urine? Does the cat ever try to urinate in the litter box? Does the cat vocalize when urinating? Is there an increase in water consumption? Can you tell if the urine is almost clear, normal color, or dark? How frequently is the cat urinating?
Even if there is no medical cause, your vet could prescribe anti-anxiety drugs to prevent spraying. This is not a guaranteed or risk-free solution, so talk to your vet about the pros and cons. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Retrain-a-Cat-to-Use-the-Litter-Box", "language": "en"} |
7 Things to Do with Old Speaker Magnets: Disposal, Repurposing, and More | Are you trying to figure out what to do with some old speaker magnets? If you've salvaged the magnets from some dead speakers or have stumbled upon a trove of rare earth magnets, you're probably wondering if they're worth any money or can be reused. This wikiHow article will give you idea for ways to reuse, upcycle, sell, and dispose of ferrite, alnico, and neodymium speaker magnets.
1. **Speaker magnets are far more powerful than your average magnet, so handle them with care.** While you're deciding what to do with your speaker magnets, there are a few things to keep in mind:
Keep speaker magnets separated to avoid collision, which can happen quickly (and with a lot of force). A quick collision of two large speaker magnets could not only pinch the skin, but also cause the magnets to break into fragments that can wind up in your eyes.
Don't allow children to handle speaker magnets.
Assess nearby metal objects, especially with neodymium speaker magnets. If close enough, metal objects could come flying at the magnet without warning.
Magnets will interfere with your GPS and smartphone and can also demagnetize your credit card strip.
Never bring a magnet around someone with a pacemaker, as magnets could cause implanted medical devices to stop working.
Avoid drilling into magnets, as magnetic dust can be highly combustible.
2. **Depending on the type of magnet, there may be a market for it.** Most speakers have one of three types of magnets: ferrite, alnico and neodymium. While ferrite is a ceramic-like material common in cheaper speakers (and not worth trying to sell), both alnico (aluminum, nickel, and cobalt) and neodymium are rare-earth magnets that are considerably more expensive.
Check the rate per pound at your local scrapyard for alnico or neodymium magnets, or list them on eBay to put some money in your pocket.
If selling your speaker magnets isn't your thing, try listing them on your neighborhood freecycle group.
It's difficult to identify which type of magnets you have by sight, so look up the speaker model to find out for sure.
3. **Need to free up kitchen counter or drawer space?** Mount your old speaker magnets on a solid strip of wood to create a kitchen utensil rack. You can hang this rack in your kitchen and use it to hang metal utensils like knives, spatulas, and ladles. You could also craft a wall-mounted tool holder in the garage or a spice rack above the stove! Just be sure to use nails or screws to mount your wall rack, as adhesives might not be strong enough to support heavier objects.
4. **All you'll need is some copper wire, tape, a plastic cup, and your speaker magnet.** For a quick and easy science experiment, you can reuse any speaker magnet to make your own speaker. We'll even show you how to do it!. It's easier than you'd think, and you can even use it with your aux cord to listen to music from your iPhone, Android, or computer.
5. **Slide a speaker magnet in your pocket and throw away that toolbelt.** When you have a strong but small magnet in your pocket (like a neodymium magnet from a small premium speaker or tweeter), any metal tool will stick to it on the outside of your pants. If you're worried about weighing down your pockets, you could affix one or more small neodymium speaker magnets to a leather toolbelt instead.
6. **Use rare earth magnets to create a fun science experiment for kids.** Because iron is magnetic, you can use a neodymium speaker magnet to show kids that their breakfast cereal contains iron particles. Crush up one serving of iron-fortified cereal into a fine powder, pour it into a resealable bag, and fill the bag halfway with warm water. Seal the bag, swish around the cereal until dissolved and then open it and place the magnet inside. When you pull the magnet out, you'll see black particles on the magnet.
Don't allow your child to handle the magnet, and keep the magnet away from other magnets and metals during the experiment.
Another fun idea for magnetic science is to make a simple compass using a paperclip, cork, and a bowl of water.
7. **Unfortunately, it's not possible to recycle rare earth magnets curbside.** For now, the best way to dispose of speaker magnets properly safely is to do so through a metal scrapyards or e-waste disposal service. These organizations are able to recycle (in some regions) or safely demagnetize and dispose of rare earth magnets in accordance with federal laws. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/What-to-Do-with-Old-Speaker-Magnets", "language": "en"} |
How to Become the Longest Snake in Slither.io | Want to get up to a big size in Slither.io? Keep on reading this article to find out which method best suits you!
1. **Stick to the edges of the the arena, staying away from the middle.** To start with, look at the map in the bottom right hand corner of the screen. You can see the map is circular and has many dots inside of it. The biggest white dot is you. The map is sectioned off into four quadrants, try moving your snake to the edge of a quadrant so you can be far away from other snakes.
2. **Collect the dots.** Feed them to your snake to make it bigger. This is not only the safest way, but it is the most time-consuming method. So it is suggested that you only use this method if you want a longer game of Slither.io.
3. **Know when to best use this method.** Going to the center of the map is less time-consuming but your risks of crashing are higher.
4. **Advance to the center of the map.** To start off with, look at the map in the bottom right hand corner of the screen and follow it to where the the four quadrants meet. The snakes you are looking for may not be in the exact center, but should be very close. As soon as you see a huge snake, you know you are there.
5. **Get into the middle of the action.** At this point you should still be a small snake so it will be easier to navigate. You don't have to kill any snake just yet, others will do it for you. Once you see a snake nearby being killed, collect some mass so you get longer then leave the center of action. Now you should be a good size but on the outside of the chaos.
6. ** Collect mass from outside of the chaos.** It's not as plentiful as on the inside, but you can be more careful and in less danger from the outside.
7. **Avoid dying by swerving and circling.** Kill the smaller snakes and any bigger snake that is practically right in front of you. Try to avoid making it obvious your trying to kill them. Suddenly speeding up is a clear giveaway and they will either kill you or get away.
8. **Look at your map and get to the center.** On the way there, pick up any dots you can find. Once this is done and you are at the center of the map, locate the biggest snake.
9. **Follow it as closest as possible.** This can mean traveling with the snake along their side or following their tail. Either way, you wait for them to die.
10. **Collect the mass of the large snake when they die.** Don't let anyone get in front of you, this method is dangerous. Collect as much as you can from the dying snake, then find another big snake. Do this as many times as you want to until you are the biggest snake, then move to another method.
11. **Use one of the previous methods to develop a long snake.** Once you are happy with your size, find a snake that is smaller than you. Try to get as close to it as possible without being killed.
12. **Cut them off from any escape.** If you kill them there, collect their mass and move on to another snake. If they don't die, they will turn to try to get away. Keep cutting it off and make a ring around it to prevent escape.
13. **Keep circling around the trapped snake.** Make the circle smaller and smaller until the snake inside has no where to go and touches the side of your snake. Once it touches your side, the loot is all yours, as no one else can take it. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Become-the-Longest-Snake-in-Slither.io", "language": "en"} |
How to Get Rid of Hornets | If you've noticed hornets buzzing around your yard and want to get rid of them, track them back to their nest. Spray the nest at night with an aerosol insecticide labeled for wasps and hornets. Be sure to wear thick protective clothing when you approach the nest, and avoid getting too close to it. If the nest is a safe distance from your home, consider leaving it alone. Hornets eat other insects and pollinate flowers, so they're an important part of the ecosystem.
1. **Scout for small nests on your property in the early spring.** Hornet nests are small and easier to remove in the early spring. A nest that's around the size of a ping pong ball probably only contains a queen and unhatched eggs, so you can just spray it down with a hose.
You'll need insecticide to get rid of a larger nest. By summer, nests can grow to the size of a basketball and contain thousands of hornets.
2. **Wear protective clothing when you search for and treat the nest.** At a minimum, wear a thick, long-sleeved shirt, pants, thick leather or rubber gloves, and boots. Coveralls can add extra protection, and a beekeeper's veil can protect your head and face.
If you can't access a veil, you should wear protective goggles and a hat that covers your ears.
To prevent hornets from getting into your clothing, use rubber bands or duct tape to secure your sleeves to your gloves and your pants to your boots.
3. **Lure and track the hornets if you don't know the nest's location.** If you've seen hornets buzzing but aren't sure where the nest is, observe which direction they fly. When they find food, hornets collect what they can and bring it back to the nest.
Try leaving out bait, such as pieces of fruit or meat, then watch it from inside your home. When hornets show interest, look for the direction they fly away, then follow them. Eventually, you should be able to track down the nest.
4. **Place a marker 15 to 20 ft (4.6 to 6.1 m) away from the nest.** A hornet's nest is gray or beige, shaped like a rounded teardrop, and can be as large as a basketball. They usually hang from trees, but you might find one on the ground. Once you find the nest, stay a safe distance away, and mark your spot so you can find the nest later.
While you're at the nest, see if you can find the opening. Hornet nests usually have a single small opening toward the bottom. You might want to use binoculars to look for the hole so you don't have to get too close.
You'll need to apply insecticide at night, so mark your spot with a brightly colored flag that you'll be able to see in the dark.
5. **Purchase an aerosol insecticide with a 15 to 20 ft (4.6 to 6.1 m) range.** Find a pressurized can of aerosol insecticide labeled for wasps and hornets at a home improvement store or garden center. Check the label, and make sure that it produces a solid stream that reaches at least 15 ft (4.6 m).
You'll need a long-range aerosol insecticide so you can target the nest without getting too close.
Read the instruction label and use your product as directed.
6. **Treat the nest with insecticide at night.** The best time to treat a hornet nest with insecticide is around 2 hours after dusk. Hornets are least active at night, and most of the workers return to the nest after dusk.
Since they remain active after sunset, European hornets are an exception to this rule. For this species, the best time to spray is just before sunrise when it's still dark.
European hornets can grow over 1 in (2.5 cm) in length, and have a reddish-brown head and thorax (the middle section of the body). Other wasps and hornets don't have this reddish-brown coloring.
7. **Use a flashlight with a red filter to find the nest.** Hornets have trouble seeing red light, so secure a sheet of red cellophane over your flashlight with a rubber band. That way, you'll be able to see where you're going without disturbing the nest.
You'll attract unwanted attention if you use an unfiltered flashlight.
Remember to wear protective clothing when you approach the nest. Keep in mind treating a hornet or wasp nest yourself is risky, and protective clothing does not make you invincible.
8. **Aim the insecticide stream at the nest's opening.** When you locate your marker and find the nest, try to track down the opening. Again, binoculars can help you get a good view without getting too close. When you find the opening, spray a steady stream of insecticide at it for at least 5 to 10 seconds.
The goal is to keep the nest intact as you soak the opening. That way, any hornets that come out and try to attack with come into contact with the insecticide.
Do your best to hold the stream for several seconds, but don't stick around longer than necessary. If you hear angry, swarming hornets, cover your head with your hands and run toward shelter.
9. **Check the nest after at least 1 day, and reapply insecticide if necessary.** Wait 24 to 48 hours, then head back to the nest to check your work. If you see any remaining active hornets, go back to the nest after dark and apply more insecticide.
Larger nests might take 2 or 3 applications. When you're sure the nest is vacant, swat it down from a tree branch or, if it's on the ground, cover it with soil.
10. **Caulk** In the late winter or early spring, survey your home and any other structures on your property, such as sheds. Check for cracks in the siding, roof line, eaves, and soffits, and seal any openings you find with waterproof caulk.
Use ⁄8 inch (0.32 cm) gauge wire mesh to cover any large openings or vents.
11. **Eliminate sources of food and water.** Avoid leaving out food or containers that held food, especially meat and other sources of protein, fruit, and sugary drinks. Ensure hoses and other water fixtures don't leak, and promptly remove any puddles of water that collect in your yard.
Additionally, if you have any outdoor pets, don't leave food outside for them. Food and water will attract hornets.
12. **Keep your garbage and recycling bins tightly sealed.** It's especially important to keep trash and recycling bins tightly covered if they hold food waste or containers that held sweet beverages. You should also check the bins' exteriors routinely for spilled food or liquid. Hose down your bins thoroughly if you notice any residue.
13. **Fill rodent burrows and crevices with soil.** Burrows and other nooks and crannies can attract ground-nesting hornets and wasps. Check your yard in the early spring, and fill in any crevices you find.
Continue to check for holes throughout the spring and early summer. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Get-Rid-of-Hornets", "language": "en"} |
How to Learn Computer Networking | Computer networks play a fundamental role in many aspects of our daily lives, from our homes to workplaces to public spaces. Though computer networking may seem like a vast and confusing topic, you can begin learning how to navigate the field by starting with the basics and then taking your learning further at your own pace. If you’ve always been curious about how to get started and are hoping to get a run down of what computer networking is, you’ve come to the right place!
1. **Computer networking:** computer networking refers to connecting two or more computers to share files or other resources. Computers can be connected either by wires or wirelessly (i.e. through WiFi). Once computers are connected, they can communicate in many useful ways that are essential for everyday life—such as sending emails, printing documents, sharing audio and video, shopping online, and even just searching the internet. There are many types of computer networks, which serve different purposes and are used in different contexts.
Computer networks can be built from hardware, like cables, optical fibers, and routers.
Computer networks can also consist of software, like operating systems.
Computer networks follow protocols (sets of rules about how data should be sent and received) to communicate.
2. **LAN (local area network):** a LAN connects computers over shorter distances or smaller areas, such as a school or office building. A LAN tends to be less expensive because it is built from cheaper hardware like ethernet cables, and also provides higher security and speed. They are normally privately owned.
A WLAN is the wireless version of a LAN.
Many computer networks are defined by geographical range.
3. **WAN (wide area network):** a WAN connects computers over wider distances, like from state to state or continent to continent. In fact, the internet is the largest WAN and connects billions of computers worldwide! Another example of WAN usage is when a main office connects with branches around the country. A WAN tends to be more expensive, requires more security measures, and is collectively owned.
Most WANs are made of interconnected LANs.
WANs are often used in business or corporate contexts.
4. **MAN (metropolitan area network):** a MAN connects computers within a metropolitan area like a city. They are usually bigger than LANs but smaller than WANs. Since they are smaller than WANs, they tend to be faster. Cities and governments typically manage MANs—for instance, to monitor traffic and handle accidents.
MANs are also made of interconnected LANs.
5. **PAN (personal area network):** a PAN is used to serve just one individual, like yourself; for example, if your smartphone, tablet, and laptop all connect and share data between each other— like when you sync photos across all three—then they make up a PAN. PAN networks usually use Bluetooth because it provides convenient, short-range communication.
PANs can be either wired (e.g. through USB) or wireless (e.g. Bluetooth).
A WPAN is the name for a wireless version of a PAN.
6. **IP address (Internet Protocol address):** an IP address is a unique number that each device connected to a network has. An IP address works to identify what the host network is and where that specific device is located on the host network, which helps facilitate communication between devices so that information gets to the correct place.
You can think of an IP address as being like a mailing address.
7. **Nodes:** a node is a connection point inside the network that receives, sends, creates, and stores data. A node can process and send information to any other node. Nodes also require you to provide identification before receiving access to the information, like an IP address.
For example, computers and printers both count as nodes.
8. **Router:** a physical or virtual device that sends info between networks in the form of data packets. It helps direct traffic so that information can reach its destination in the best way. Routers should be distinguished from switches, which send information between nodes in a single network.
For example, a router would be active when you want to print a document (it would make sure your document gets to the printer and not your speaker).
A router would also be active when you look up something on Google (it would make sure your search gets to Google’s servers).
9. **P2P (peer-to-peer) architecture:** in computer networking, architecture means the physical and logical framework of the network. Under the first type, which is called P2P, the two connected computers are “peers” and have equal powers. Because of this, there is no need for a central server, and both of the computers can share resources with each other.
P2P networks tend to be less expensive to implement.
10. **Client-server architecture:** in a client-server network, one computer is a “client” (the computer that requests or needs to access a service) and the other is a “server” (the computer that provides or responds with the service). Resources aren’t shared, and clients in the network have to communicate with other clients through the server.
Client-server networks are also called tiered models.
Client-server networks tend to be more expensive to implement.
11. **Sign up for an online course.** There are numerous online courses available (some free, others paid) if you’re interested in learning more widely and deeply about the many components of computer networking—such as more network types, architectures, and security features. These courses will provide you with opportunities to try hands-on projects and receive feedback on your work, and most don’t require any experience. You can pick a program that best suits your learning goals.
Some examples of online course options include Coursera (https://www.coursera.org/learn/computer-networking) and MIT’s OpenCourseWare program (https://ocw.mit.edu/courses/electrical-engineering-and-computer-science/6-829-computer-networks-fall-2002).
By signing up for an online course, you may also have the opportunity to interact with others who are interested in the same topic. If something is stumping you, you can ask your peers for assistance.
12. **Take in-person classes.** If in-person classes relevant to computer networking or are available and accessible near you, they can be another great option to dive further into the field of computer networking. You can try going to the website of the local institution where you’d like to take in-person classes and look up their course offerings, which are often listed online.
If you are a university student, you may be able to take relevant classes as part of your tuition even if it’s not your main field of study. You could even audit a course (attending a class without receiving a grade) if you have less time or don’t want to negatively impact your GPA. However, you should check with your college about the specific policies.
If you’re not a college student, you may still be able to take classes through your local college on a course-by-course basis (for instance, as an extension student), but you will likely have to pay for them—again, check with your institution about what options are available to you.
13. **Watch educational videos.** Videos can be an extremely useful way to visually see and learn how computer networking is implemented, and there are many excellent tutorials and video series available online, such as on Youtube. These videos also cover a wide range of information, from the basics to more advanced concepts.
14. **Read up on essential materials.** Aside from structured courses and videos, there are also many books and websites that provide detailed and useful information about computer networking. These materials can either serve as a jumping-off point, or a way to supplement what you have learned through other means.
Check out our articles on Computer Networking for more information!
IBM and Microsoft both also give an overview of computer networking and explain some key terms and concepts on their respective websites. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Learn-Computer-Networking", "language": "en"} |
How to Restring a Floating Bridge (Floyd Rose) | The design of the floating bridge, or Floyd Rose bridge, enables you to incorporate various effects in your playing style without knocking the strings out of tune. The process of restringing a guitar with a floating bridge is a little more complicated than restringing any other guitar. However, once you get the hang of it, you'll be able to do it without any problems.
1. **Place your guitar on a flat, clean surface.** Lay down a towel or soft cloth on your table or counter to protect your guitar's body from scratches. If you have a headstand, you can use that to hold the neck for added stability.
Set up your work station by laying out your tools. You'll need Allen wrenches for the nut plates and saddle, wire cutters, and a string winder. You may also want to gather cleaning supplies so you can clean your guitar after removing the old string.
2. **Take off the locking nut plates using an Allen wrench.** The locking nut plates hold the strings in place. Turn your Allen wrench slowly to loosen the plates before removing them. Put the plates in a safe place so you don't lose them.
Your guitar likely came with a set of Allen wrenches designed specifically for this use. If not, you can find a set at most music or guitar shops, or you can order one online.
3. **Unwind the string at the tuning peg.** Turn the tuning peg slowly to release tension in the string before taking it out. If you need to remove multiple strings, only remove and replace one string at a time. If you take all of them off, your bridge may not have the same tension when you replace them, and you'll have a hard time tuning your guitar.
A string winder will make this process faster and smoother. If you don't have a string winder, you can turn the tuning peg with your fingers.
If the string is broken, hold the broken end as you turn the tuning peg. This will unwind the top of the string and keep the broken end from getting tangled in the other strings.
4. **Pull the string out of the peg.** When you've unwound the string completely, carefully pull the string to remove it completely from the tuning peg. Take care not to poke yourself with the sharp end of the string.
If the string isn't broken, you may want to stick the sharp end in an eraser or wrap some tape around it. That way you won't have to worry about it poking or scratching you as you work.
5. **Loosen the saddle with an Allen wrench.** Don't loosen all the saddles, only the one that corresponds to the string you want to remove. There is a small metal block in the bridge that keeps the string tight. Keep an eye out for it as you loosen the saddle.
If the block does come out, put it somewhere safe so you don't lose it. You'll have to put it back in when you replace the string.
It can help to count the number of turns you made with the Allen wrench to loosen the bridge. You can use that number when you tighten it back up to avoid over-tightening it.
6. **Pull the other end of the string out of the bridge.** Wrap the string into a neat coil. If the string was broken, you'll have 2 coils of string. Twist the sharp ends around and dispose of the string safely.
You may want to wrap tape around the sharp ends to hold the coil together and keep the sharp points from coming loose.
7. **Clean your fretboard with an oil soap or fretboard cleaner.** While a string is off, take the opportunity to clean the fretboard beneath it. Use a soft, lint-free cloth to gently rub the cleaner into the wood. Avoid getting the cleaner on any of the other strings.
You can also polish the frets using the same oil soap. Once you're done cleaning, wipe away any excess with a dry paper towel.
8. **Buy replacement strings of the same gauge.** If you don't know what gauge your old strings are, take your guitar into a music shop and have a tech look at them. If you look for your guitar on a string package, that only tells you that those strings are appropriate for your guitar. There's no guarantee those were the strings you had.
If you want to use a different gauge, you'll need to replace all of your strings, not just the one that's broken. Changing the gauge of your strings will alter the balance between the nut and the bridge, which can destroy your guitar's intonation. Talk to a guitar repair expert before you attempt to do this on your own.
9. **Use wire cutters to snip off the ball end of the replacement string.** The ball end of standard guitar strings won't fit in a Floyd Rose bridge. Cut off the ball end as well as the part of the string just above the ball that is tightly twisted. Make sure your cut is even and clean.
If you're changing more than one string, only cut the ball end off of one string at a time. Since the ball ends are color-coded, this is the only way to know for sure which string is next (unless you're really familiar with the thickness of the strings).
10. **Secure the new string at the bridge.** Insert the string into the saddle at the bridge, then tighten the bridge with your Allen wrench. If the small metal block fell out when you loosened the saddle, set it back into place before tightening the bridge.
Take care not to over-tighten the bridge, or you could damage your guitar. If you counted turns when you loosened it, use the same number of turns to tighten it back up.
11. **Insert the other end of the string in the tuning post hole.** Pull the string up the neck of your guitar, making sure it runs over the correct nut slot. Put the end through the post hole and kink the string over itself to lock it in place.
Line up your postholes with the nut, so you can slide the string straight through to the other side.
Leave some slack so the string can wrap around the post several times. This will help keep the string from slipping.
12. **Wrap the string around the tuning post.** Using your string winder or your fingers, carefully turn the tuning peg to bring the string back to tension. Be careful not to wind it too tight, or the string may snap.
Each new wrap of the string should be below the previous wrap. This also helps keep your strings from slipping out of tune.
Bring the string slightly up to tension, but don't try to tune it until you've checked the bridge.
13. **Adjust the bridge if you're changing to a different gauge of strings.** Open the back of your guitar with a Phillip's head screwdriver to access the bridge's springs. Slowly adjust the tension on the springs until the bridge is level again.
A heavier gauge string will cause your bridge to lean forward, while a lighter gauge string causes it to sink back. This can badly affect your guitar's playability. If the bridge is tilted forward, turn the claw screws clockwise to tighten the springs. If the bridge is tilted backward, turn the claw screws counterclockwise to loosen them.
Turn the screwdriver a quarter-turn at a time, and then check to see whether it's even. You don't want to go too far in the opposite direction.
14. **Tune your guitar.** Start from the sixth string and move to the first, getting your guitar in tune. Once it's in tune, check the position of the bridge again and make sure it's still parallel to the body of the guitar.
If the bridge is tilting forward or backward, adjust the tension in the springs from the back of your guitar. You'll probably need to tune your guitar again after doing this.
15. **Pull the string gently away from the fretboard to stretch it.** Take the new string between your thumb and fingers. Start at the bridge and stretch a few times going down the neck of the guitar. Stretch the string about a finger's thickness away from the fretboard.
New guitar strings have a hard time staying in tune unless they've been stretched properly. If you skip this step, your new string won't stay in tune.
16. **Retune your guitar after stretching the strings.** After stretching new strings, your guitar will be out of tune again. Go back through the process of tuning your guitar using the tuning pegs at the headstock.
You may want to play a little bit to help break the new strings in as well. After playing, check to make sure they're staying in tune and the bridge is still balanced. Make adjustments as needed.
17. **Set the fine tuners to the middle of their adjustment range.** Once your guitar is tuned, turn your fine tuners to the middle. This gives you room to adjust your strings flat or sharp after you've locked the nut.
Strum your guitar again to make sure it's in tune. Check the balance of the bridge. These small rechecks will help your guitar's new strings stay in tune.
18. **Lock the Floyd Rose nut.** Take the locking plates you removed from your guitar and place them back on your guitar. Use the Allen wrench to tighten them back into place. Make sure the strings are all in the appropriate notches.
Don't over-tighten, but make sure the strings are flattened out again. The locking plates help keep the strings from slipping when you use your whammy bar.
19. **Fine-tune your guitar before playing it.** After you've locked the nut, don't touch the tuning pegs at the headstock again. This will snap your string and could damage your guitar. Use the fine tuner knobs at the bridge to bring your guitar up to pitch.
Check the balance of the bridge again. Make sure it's sitting parallel to the guitar with the strings tuned.
If your action (space between the strings and the fretboard) is too high or too low, you may also want to make adjustments for that. You can adjust the action by turning the bridge pivot screws or "rocker screws" using an Allen wrench. Adjust slowly, checking after each quarter-turn. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Restring-a-Floating-Bridge-(Floyd-Rose)", "language": "en"} |
How to Cram for a Test | Have you have been too busy or simply procrastinated getting ready for a test? While cramming probably won't get you an "A," it can definitely save you from an "F." Follow the suggestions below and get ready for a long, hard night.
1. **Make good notes.** If you have minimal time to study for an exam, having good notes and note-taking skills will be essential for getting the most out of the night before.
Find out what you really need to study. If your teacher holds a review session before the exam, take advantage of the opportunity. You'll find out what topics the teacher thinks are important and you'll have an opportunity to ask questions (although if you're having to cram, you probably have a few too many questions at this point). Many teachers hand out study guides, so be sure to use them. While they probably won't cover everything that will be on the test, you'll at least be able to focus on the key topics.
Get out your lecture notes. Assuming you attended class regularly, you should have some notes to look over. If you don't have any notes, try to get copies from a classmate. Your class notes are a treasure trove of important knowledge because your teacher covers what he or she thinks is most important.
2. **Note the important concepts.** As you go through your notes, find important definitions, concepts and equations. If you don't know them by heart, write them down on a separate piece of paper—your cramming notes—or on small note cards. This will help you identify what you need to know, and you'll have a handy set of flash cards.
The act of rewriting may also help you memorize the content. If you're a good visual learner, then this will definitely help. If you're a good auditory learner, meaning you learn by hearing, recite the words as you write them down on the note cards.
If you have enough time, consider rewriting your note cards several times. It may seem like overkill, but if you're trying to learn facts and information, it's very helpful. If you're trying to learn equations or more practical applications, this repetition is not as useful.
3. **Study effectively.** You obviously won't have time to cover everything that might be on the test, but you can narrow down what will likely be covered and find ways to best focus on these concepts.
Identify key topics. Go through your study guide and your cramming notes and look up the important or most repeated topics in your textbook. Scan the key sections of your text and write down any new information you find that seems important. The idea here is not to write down everything, but rather to identify the specific ideas, facts or equations that are likely to be on the test and focus on those topics as much as possible.
Look at the beginnings and ends of textbook chapters. The first page of a chapter often identifies key points that will aid your understanding of the material. The last couple of pages will often summarize the chapter, define or highlight key terms, and, in the case of math texts, list important equations.
Contemplate possible essay questions (if applicable) and how you would answer them. By now you should have at least a light grasp on the material. Think about the overarching concepts involved and outline (preferably on paper) your approach to essay questions.
4. **Do a light run-through.** This is where the rubber starts meeting the road. Soak up all the information you've furiously assembled, test yourself, and evaluate quickly how you might have done. This should tell you what areas of study you still need to focus on.
Review your flashcards or cramming notes first. Go through the key topics quickly. If you feel you understand and can remember a certain topic or equation, cross it off the list or set that flashcard aside. If you come up with additional questions, look them up in your notes or online (just make sure to use a reliable website).
Test yourself. If your teacher handed out a practice test, do it now. If not, do the practice tests or review questions at the ends of your textbook chapters. Only do the questions that are directly relevant to the concepts you've identified as important. Don't spend a lot of time on each question. If you get stuck on a question, note it and come back to it after you grade your test.
Grade your self-tests. Be honest with your grading. If you're not, you will only hurt yourself when it comes to the actual test. Look at the questions you got wrong and compare those to your cramming notes or flashcards. You may need to make some new flashcards or revisit some of the concepts you thought you knew.
5. **If facts aren't sticking, and studying isn't going well, try some memorization strategies.** The brain never forgets. Forgetting a piece of information is either the failure to properly store it, the failure to recall it, or the failure to store it in a way that it can be found. Practice some simple memorization techniques to help you supercharge your last-minute cram session.
Try using a mnemonic device. That's just a fancy word for "memory device," meaning a quick and simple way to remember something. Remember when your teacher taught you ROYGBIV to help you remember the sequence of colors in the rainbow? Making something into an acronym, like "ROYGBIV," is a mnemonic device.
Try using "pegs" to hang the information on. It could be making the information into a rhyme, relating it to an image you're familiar with, or telling yourself a story about it you know you'll remember. Try to take information that's digested with one sense (words are digested through sight) and try to digest it in another.
Try chunking. This just means organizing something under a category. For example, if you're studying Finance, try to group stocks, bonds, funds, etc. under one big category, securities, and understand what that category means. Organize key ideas under concepts.
6. **Pack up and get some sleep.** Sometimes, you just don't have enough time for sleep, but do try to get as much sleep as possible before your test. It's a good idea to get the bulk of your cramming in before going to bed and then get up with enough time to review a bit more. If you pull an all nighter, you will be tired and more prone to making careless mistakes on the test.
Studies indicate that loss of sleep erodes memory performance. Not only this, lack of sleep will make last-minute bits of information more difficult to recall. So focus on cramming as much as possible before getting sleepy and go to bed at an early hour.
7. **Get a light, balanced breakfast at least an hour before the test.** Avoid eating only carbohydrates, and instead grab a meal that is high in protein (eggs), omega-3 fatty acids (salmon), fiber (black beans), or fruits and vegetables.f
Some "super foods" that help increase brain function and longevity include: blueberries, salmon, nuts and seeds, avocados, pomegranate juice, green tea, and dark chocolate. You may consider chomping down on one or two of these as part of your breakfast.
8. **Plan a study session.** Study in the car or on the bus with a friend. Get a few friends together the hour before the exam and quiz each other on key concepts. You want the information to be as fresh as possible in your mind. Be sure not to let the study session devolve into social hour.
9. **Review all your cramming notes or flashcards one more time.** Right before the test, go through every one of your flashcards or notes, even if you think you have memorized them. You want everything to be fresh in your mind when you take the test. If you are having some trouble remembering a certain definition or equation, write it down six or seven times in a row. That should firmly imprint it on your brain.
10. **Identify a particular piece of information which is most important for the test and which you really need to remember.** Make sure you do not take an info longer than three to four words/one formula at a time. Stare at your most important piece of information for at least 1–2 minutes. Concentrate well. Rewrite as the exam approaches to maximize memorization.
11. **Get to the exam room early and visit the bathroom.** Get to the exam room at least 5 minutes before the test, and make sure to hit the little girls' or boys' room before you settle down into your seat. You don't want to worry about nature's call while you're taking a test. After that, settle down, relax, and be confident. Visualize success. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Cram-for-a-Test", "language": "en"} |
How to Add More Fiber to Your Diet | Are you getting enough fiber in your diet? You might be surprised at how much fiber you need each day. On average, adult women need to consume about 25 g of fiber daily and adult men need to consume about 38 g of fiber daily. Reaching your daily fiber goals can help maintain the health of your digestive tract, manage a healthy weight and lower the risk of certain cancers (like colon or rectal cancer) heart disease and diabetes. However, it can be challenging to find the right mix of foods to meet your daily fiber needs. Following these steps can help you get much closer to your goal.
1. **Eat 100% whole grains.** Whole grains are a healthful and fiber-rich food group that can help you meet your daily fiber needs. Aim for 3-5 servings of 100% whole grains each day.
Whole grains are minimally processed and contain all 3 parts of the grain: the germ, endosperm and bran. The bran is the portion of the grain containing the most fiber.
One serving of grains is 1 ounce. Aim to have a source of whole grains at most or all of your meals.
Examples of whole grain foods include: brown rice, quinoa, oatmeal, millet and corn.
2. **Vary your protein sources.** Protein is an essential nutrient to your diet. In addition to animal-based protein sources (like chicken, dairy or beef), there are a variety of protein-rich foods that are also fiber-rich foods called legumes. These can help you meet your daily fiber goal. Legumes are vegetables that contain a relatively high amount of fiber. They include: lentils, beans and peas.
Specific types of legumes include: black beans, chick peas, split peas, navy beans, edamame/soy beans, fava beans, kidney beans and black-eyed peas.
Legumes are a very healthful addition to your diet. In addition to being a great source of protein and fiber, they are also fairly high in folate, potassium, magnesium and iron.
Animal products do not contain fiber.
3. **Eat a fruit or a vegetable at each meal.** Fruits and vegetables can also help you meet your daily fiber goal. Aim to include a fruit or vegetable at each meal and snack.
Top sources of fiber in the fruit group include: raspberries, strawberries, pears, apples and oranges.
Top sources of fiber in the vegetable group include: artichokes, broccoli, brussels sprouts, turnip greens, okra and potatoes with skin.
4. **Eat more seeds, nuts, and legumes.** Like beans, nuts are a tasty way to get additional fiber into your diet. Aim to add a serving of nuts a few times a week.
Peanuts, pistachios, pecans, sunflower seeds and almonds are especially great sources of fiber. A 1/4 cup of almonds has 4 grams of fiber in it.
Nuts also provide a healthy dose of protein and omega-3 fats.
5. **Take a fiber supplement.** Consuming the recommended 25 or 38 g of fiber daily can be a challenge. If you're having trouble meeting this goal on a regular basis, you may want to consider adding a fiber supplement to your daily routine.
There are many different types of fiber supplements available. Generally, they're functional fibers, a type of fiber derived from plants that's beneficial to your health.
Supplements may come in the form of powders, oils, capsules or chewable tablets. In addition, many processed foods contain added fiber. For example, soy milk or orange juice with added fiber.
Note that many health professionals recommend consuming as much fiber as you can from natural sources (like whole grains or vegetables). Always check with your doctor before adding any type of supplement to your diet.
6. **Drink 64 oz clear of fluids daily.** Water doesn't have any fiber added. However, with additional fiber in your diet, it's also very important to drink adequate amounts of fluids daily. Inadequate water consumption when increasing fiber can result in constipation.
64 oz of water daily is a general rule to help you consume enough water. However, the Institute of Medicine recommends about 9-13 cups of fluids daily.
Fiber works best when combined with water. It will absorb water and help make your stools soft and mobile.
Drink water consistently throughout the day. Keeping a water bottle with you at all times to measure how much you need to drink can help.
7. **Add fiber to your diet slowly.** Aim to add about 5 g of fiber daily until you reach your goal. Adding too much fiber too quickly can result in some gastrointestinal stress like loose stools, constipation, painful bowel movements, bloating or gas.
Keep track of how much fiber you're eating and how much more you need to consume by keeping a food journal or using a food journal app. These can help you tally up your total fiber intake each day.
8. **Leave the skin on your fruits and vegetables.** Incorporating more fruits and vegetables into your diet will add fiber. However, if you eat the skin on many fruits and vegetables, you can maximize the amount of fiber from that food.
For example, don't peel apples before you eat them or if you're eating potatoes, try to leave the skin in the dish (such as if making baked or mashed potatoes).
Eating fruits with seeds is also a great way to consume more fiber. Berries are among the highest in fiber due to their miniature seeds that are consumed when eating them whole.
9. **Replace refined, processed grains with whole wheat products.** Whole grains offer more fiber to your diet. Slowly swap out any refined grains you eat with 100% whole grains.
Try 100% whole wheat pasta or pasta made from brown rice or quinoa. If you don't like the taste, mix it with a little regular pasta.
Have brown or wild rice instead of white rice. Alternatively, try some barley, quinoa or millet.
Instead of white bread products, use 100% whole wheat bread. If you like to eat toast in the morning, make it whole wheat bread. Alternatively, there are brands of bread and English muffins that have 5 or more grams of fiber per slice.
Check to make sure processed foods like bread or pasta are 100% whole grain by reading the food label. The first ingredient should be 100% whole grain flour. No other refined or enriched flours should be listed.
10. **Eat a wholegrain or high fiber cereal for breakfast.** If you can get a fiber-packed breakfast routine going, it may help you easily reach your daily fiber goal. If you don’t like the taste of these, don't worry; you can mix in half a cup of bran cereal with whatever other cereal you like.
Eat a cereal with 5 or more grams of fiber per serving. Read the food label to check how much fiber is in one serving (or however many servings you'll be eating) of that food.
Cereals like oatmeal or a bran-based cereal are good options to start with.
Substitute old fashioned steel cut oats for microwave instant oatmeal for an additional 2-4 grams of fiber per serving.
If you have a favorite cereal you just can't let go of, add few tablespoons of unprocessed wheat bran or mix it with a high fiber cereal.
Make sure your breakfast also includes protein to ensure that the high carb count in fiber rich foods doesn't cause a blood sugar spike/drop and cravings later in the day.
11. **Cook or prepare foods and recipes with high-fiber ingredients.** Try changing up some of your recipes or meals to include more whole grain or high-fiber foods.
Bake muffins that incorporate crushed bran cereal or unprocessed wheat bran.
Add fruits like berries, raisins, or bananas to your cereal or yogurt to increase your fiber by 1-2 grams.
Substitute oat, flax or whole wheat flour for white flour in baked goods for an additional 1-2 grams of fiber per serving.
If you're making pancakes or waffles from scratch, substitute wheat bran for a third of the all purpose flour.
Add crushed bran cereal or unprocessed wheat bran to casseroles, salads, cooked vegetables, and baked products (meatloaf, breads, muffins, casseroles, cakes, cookies).
Add beans and lentils to salads, soups or stews for an extra boost of fiber.
12. **Choose high fiber snack foods.** Including fiber-rich food choices for snacks will also help you meet your daily goal.
Fiber rich snacks include: carrots and hummus, a handful of edamame, raisin and nut trail mix or popcorn.
You can also try pre-packaged foods that contain high amounts of fiber as well. Granola bars and dry cereal can be a great high-fiber snack.
13. **Prepare international recipes.** A variety of international cuisines focus on whole grains and legumes – both of which are high in fiber. Foods like Indian, Lebanese or Mexican feature beans, lentils and rice.
Try a few online websites for recipes or purchase a cookbook to have on hand at home.
When preparing international dishes, always choose whole grains. A recipe may call for white rice, but use brown rice instead.
14. **Add frozen vegetables to soups.** A quick and healthy way to boost fiber intake is to add frozen vegetables to any soups you are preparing. This is a low calorie way to add more bulk to your diet and vegetables are low calorie and healthy as well.
Toss in a few handfuls of frozen broccoli, cauliflower, carrots or peas a few minutes before the soup is finished cooking and you’ll have a nutrient packed low calorie meal in minutes.
15. **Add flaxseeds to yogurt.** Another great way to increase fiber in your diet is to start adding flaxseeds to your bowl of yogurt or cereal in a morning. Flaxseeds are a rich source of fiber, plus they are loaded in essential fatty acids which are imperative for good health.
Flaxseeds help to control your blood sugar levels as well, so that you don’t suffer an energy crash shortly after eating.
Add flaxseeds to your smoothies for extra fiber.
16. **Add some berries into your protein shake.** Blackberries particularly are high in fiber, so if you can add a half cup to some protein powder, skimmed milk, yogurt and a few ice cubes, you will have a very nutritious dense shake in minutes that is protein rich as well as high in fiber.
Berries are also rich in antioxidants, which help promote general health.
Add chia seeds for extra fiber and omega fatty acids. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Add-More-Fiber-to-Your-Diet", "language": "en"} |
How to Play "Mother May I" | Mother May I (sometimes called Captain May I) is a familiar childhood game that is easy and fun for kids of all ages. The game is usually played with young children, but it can be a great game for the entire family to play too.
1. **Gather a group of people together.** Although you can technically play Mother May I with only three people, it will be more fun if you have more.
One benefit of Mother May I is that it’s a game that works for the whole family. Young children enjoy it, but grandparents have also been known to participate too!
However, the game is generally recommended for children between the ages of 4 and 9. The game is popular with adults because it teaches children manners.
Mother May I is a game of imagination. You need more than 2 people to play it, though. The game works best with fewer than 10 participants.
2. **Designate someone as “mother.”** One player needs to be given the mother designation, and it doesn’t matter whether it’s a girl or boy.
The game is sometimes called “Captain May I” with the word mother replaced with the word captain at all times. If the “mother” is a male, you could use the word captain and call the children "crew members."
Everyone else, no matter their actual age, receives the designation of the “children” in the game. It can be fun for actual children to get to play the mother and vice versa. As an alternative, you could use the name of the player designated as the person in charge for “mother.”
The goal of the Mother May I game is for the children to reach the mother first on the other side of the room, lawn or field. Whichever child reaches the mother first wins the game and then, in turn, is designated as the mother, and the game starts all over again.
3. **Stand on the opposite sides of the room.** Alternatively, stand on the opposite sides of a field or in the back or front yard.
The mother should be far enough away to make the game interesting but close enough that the children can hear the mother and vice versa. The mother should stand about 10–20 feet (3–6 m) away from the children.
The mother should stand facing away from the line of “children” and selects a child either at random or in order. Mother May I can be played either indoors or outdoors.
The game is also a great way to get children interacting with each other and adults, and to get them moving around and outside.
4. **Take turns asking a question.** Each one of the “children” takes turns asking a question of the mother. The question must start with the phrase “Mother may I _____________?”
Each child player must fill in the blank in the sentence with a suggested movement. A child could ask, “Mother, may I take three steps forward?”
If a child forgets to say “mother may I” before the question, the child has to return to the starting line. Some people also make the rule that a certain maneuver (say baby steps or somersaults) can only be used once per round.
The entire point of the game is to ask creative questions. Use your imagination!
5. **Develop interesting steps.** To make the game more exciting, you should mix up the questions that you ask, when you are in the child role.
For example, you could ask to take giant steps forward or baby steps forward. Other steps that can be taken include scissor steps (jumping while crossing and then uncrossing your feet), cartwheels, or bunny steps (hopping).
Ask to run forward for a certain number of steps or to walk like a crab. Frog hops involve the child going on on all fours and hopping forward.
Be aware that some grandparents might have physical limitations when it comes to running and kneeling, though.
6. **Respond to the question.** The person designated as the “mother” in the game then responds to the child’s question.
The mother must reply “yes, you may” or “no, you may not, but you may take ________ instead.” The mother should fill in the blank with another suggestion. The child must do what the mother says. The goal is to lead the child closer or farther away from the goal.
The mother can alter, but otherwise stick with the child’s suggestion. For example, the child could ask to walk forward 5 giant steps, and the mother could reduce it to 2. The mother could ask the child to run backwards instead of forward. Run until the mother says “stop.”
The game can be played slightly differently, with the mother giving the child a command, such as taking 5 baby steps forward, and the child then must respond “Mother, may I?” to which the mother says yes or no or alters the suggestion.
7. **Make Mother May I a team game.** Although the game is traditionally designed for individual play, some people turn it into a game of teams.
To do this, divide the children into teams of any number, perhaps into pairs or sets of three. Any number will work, really, although it gets complicated if the teams grow too big.
The team must choose the request for the mother together, such as “Mother, may we take five giant steps forward?”
Feel free to add your own creative twists to the game. You don’t have to play it the way it’s historically done. For example, some people change “Mother” to “Your Majesty” for princess parties.
8. **Add conditions to the request.** When playing as teams, it can be more fun to divide the teams, so everyone on a team doesn’t get to move for each question.
The mother could add conditions to the request to accomplish this, such as, “If you’re wearing red, you may take five giant steps forward.”
The goal of the game remains the same: The children must reach the mother first. In the case of teams, all team members have to reach the mother before the team can win.
The game gets boring if the mother just says yes or no all of the time. Adding conditions makes the game more interesting.
9. **Add other twists to the game.** Don't think you can only play the game the traditional way. Add your own twists and originality to it.
Another fun change to the game is to play music while the children are playing it, and to request or have the children request to use dance moves to reach the mother.
The mother could wear a special hat or other costume item that will make it more fun for the children to play the mother.
Children could disguise their voices to make it harder for the mother to know which child she is responding to. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Play-%22Mother-May-I%22", "language": "en"} |
How to Get Rid of Plantar Warts (Verrucas) | The newest research on plantar warts suggests that many different treatments can be effective, including some that you can try at home without the care of a physician. These warts occur on the bottom of the foot, which can make walking uncomfortable, but they're benign, so experts think it's typically okay to start with over-the-counter remedies like salicylic acid gels or patches. If that doesn't take care of the problem, a healthcare provider can help you figure out which treatment methods are best for you.
1. **Recognize the limits of home remedies.** Although treatments at home are effective, they will usually take many months to be effective. If you want your warts to disappear faster, it's best to seek the care of your doctor. Permanent eradication may still take a long time, even when warts are treated by a doctor.
Plantar warts will often disappear on their own and will not leave a scar; however, this can take several months to happen. The warts may be painful, making walking difficult.
2. **Prepare your plantar wart before treatment.** Soften the top of the wart by soaking your foot in warm water for several minutes. Then take the excess skin off the top with a pumice stone or nail file. Be sure that you don't use this stone or file for anything else, ever, as you can transfer the virus to other areas of the body.
Removing the top layer of dead skin will help the product to go deeper into the wart.
3. **Try a salicylic acid treatment.** There are a variety of topical (on the skin) over-the-counter products, such as Compound W, that treat plantar warts using salicylic acid. Treatments come as liquid, gel or patches. Follow the directions on the package to successfully remove your plantar wart.
Salicylic acid treatments are not painful but it can take several weeks for full results to appear.
4. **Try duct tape.** Duct tape should be cut to the size of the wart and placed over the top of it for up to six days. On the seventh day, remove the tape, soak the foot for five minutes in warm water to soften the dead skin on the top, and then use a pumice stone or nail file to buff off the top layers of the wart. Replace the duct tape for another six days.
Do not use the pumice stone or nail file for any other purpose.
This process can take several weeks to see results.
It is not known why this process is thought to work, but many have good results using this method.
5. **Investigate home-freezing compounds.** The freezing process works to close off the blood supply to the wart. There are over-the-counter medications you can use at home to freeze the wart, including Compound W Freeze Off and Dr. Scholl's Freeze Away. Follow the directions on the product you are using.
Freezing at home will be uncomfortable and some will consider it painful. A doctor can use a local anesthetic to freeze the wart deeper.
6. **Determine if it's time for a physician's care.** While plantar warts are often treated successfully at home, there are times when you may need treatment from your physician. Visit your doctor if any of these complications occur:
If the wart does not go away after treatment or if it appears to go away but returns quickly.
If the wart grows larger quickly or appears to cluster. In this case, it may be a Mosaic wart.
If the wart starts bleeding or you have more pain after treatment.
The area becomes red, swollen, or starts draining pus. This indicates that the area has become infected.
If you are a diabetic, have peripheral vascular disease, or have coronary artery disease. If you suffer from these medical conditions it is important that you but get them treated by a podiatrist who will monitor your peripheral vascular supply to the feet. These conditions increase the risk of infection or tissue death because of poor blood supply.
7. **Talk with your doctor about stronger acid peels.** Salicylic acids sold over the counter are peeling agents used to reduce the size of the wart. When home treatments are not effective, your physician can use stronger acid peels including bichloracetic acid or trichloroacetic acid.
These treatments require several return visits and you may be asked to use salicylic acid between doctor treatments.
8. **Discuss cryotherapy with your doctor.** Similar to using a freezing compound at home, cryotherapy uses liquid nitrogen to freeze the wart tissue. After the treatment, a blister forms, heals, and then falls off, taking with it all or part of the wart.
This option is painful and not generally used on young children. Your physician may use a local anesthetic depending on the size of the area being treated.
Cryotherapy can require several sessions with your doctor for full effectiveness.
9. **Talk with your physician about laser treatments.** There are two laser procedures used for wart removal. In the first, the laser cuts the growth away from the skin and in the other, the laser cauterizes the blood vessels that feed the wart, killing it.
Laser surgery can be painful and may require a longer time period for healing. It is done on an outpatient basis using local anesthesia.
10. **Discuss the use of immunotherapy with your doctor.** In this process, the doctor will use an intralesional injection of antigens into the wart. In other words, they inject toxins into the wart that stimulate your immune system to fight the virus.
This treatment is reserved for warts that are stubborn or have been very resistant to other treatment modalities.
11. **Discuss surgical options if your wart has not responded to other types of treatments.** Podiatrists may choose to use a technique that involves cutting away the wart. The doctor uses electric needles to kill the tissue around the wart and entirely remove the wart. The process can be painful and often results in scar tissue; however, it is effective and often has successful long-term results.
NEVER try to cut away a wart at home. This can lead to bleeding and infection when it isn't done with the proper tools and in a sterile environment.
12. **Figure out if you are at risk of acquiring plantar warts.** The wart is the result of exposure to human papillomavirus (HPV). There are over 120 different strains of HPV, only five to six of which are responsible for plantar warts. The virus is caught through exposure to skin scales that are infected by the virus.
Athletes who shower in common areas are at higher risk due to the increased number of people sharing the area, usually without protection over the feet. For instance, swimmers, both indoors and outdoors during the summer months, are at increased risk if they use communal showers and tiled areas around the pool; however, this includes all individuals who use a gym area locker room, shower cubicles, or hot tub areas where people usually walk barefoot.
Individuals who have cracked or peeling skin on the feet give the virus good entry into the body. Also, individuals whose feet remain moist or sweaty throughout the day will have an increased risk as the skin breaks down from overexposure to moisture increasing the risk the virus can gain entry to the body.
Individuals who have had plantar warts once are at higher risk of having them again. For instance, individuals who pick at a wart can spread the virus more easily to other parts of the body.
Individuals who have a compromised immune system from illnesses such as mononucleosis, Epstein-Barr virus, cancer, cancer treatments used for individuals with psoriatic arthritis, or individuals with HIV or AIDS.
13. **Look at the area you suspect is a plantar wart.** It should be a small area of skin that is hard and flat with a rough surface and defined boundaries. Although a plantar wart may start out looking like a callus, warts are caused by an infection. There are two ways the plantar wart may infect your foot: either as a solitary wart or as a cluster, called mosaic plantar warts.
A solitary or single wart will increase in size and may eventually multiply into several solitary warts that are satellites of the original wart.
Mosaic plantar warts are a cluster of warts without clear skin between them. They are not satellites of each other, but rather grow very close together and appear to be one rather large wart. Mosaic warts are more difficult to treat than solitary warts.
14. **Assess secondary symptoms.** Is the area painful? While plantar warts may look like calluses on the bottom of the feet, they are painful when standing and are painful when they are squeezed.
Look for black specks inside the thickened skin. These are often called wart “seeds” but are actually small clotted blood vessels inside the wart.
15. **Watch for spreading.** Warts are contagious between people and on your own body. Three small plantar warts on the bottom of your foot can quickly spread to 10 satellite warts, making the situation more difficult to treat.
As with most medical conditions, the earlier you find a wart and start treatment the easier it is to experience successful results.
16. **Prevent another infection of plantar warts.** After treatment and resolution, you are more at risk for another infection with HPV, which causes plantar warts. To begin with, wear flip-flops or other waterproof shoes in public areas, showers, locker rooms, saunas, pools and hot tubs. Also, keep your feet clean and dry. Change your socks daily and use foot powder if your feet are sweaty.
Use coconut oil on your feet in the evening before bed to prevent cracked and peeling skin. Use a pair of clean socks after applying a dime size amount of coconut oil to each foot.
17. **Avoid spreading your warts to others.** Do not scratch or pick at a wart you already have. This can spread it to other parts of your body or to others.
Do not touch other people's warts and do not wear socks or shoes that belong to other people.
Wear flip-flops or other waterproof shoes in the shower at home when you have warts to prevent the spread to other family members.
Keep clothing, towels, and socks off the floor in public locker rooms and pool areas. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Get-Rid-of-Plantar-Warts-(Verrucas)", "language": "en"} |
How to Treat a Stubbed Toe | Though they are often a frustrating, painful injury, most stubbed toes are not serious. However, in severe cases, an injury that at first seems to be an ordinary stubbed toe may actually be something more serious, like a toe fracture or ligament sprain. Since these problems carry the risk of complications like osteoarthritis, knowing how to recognize (and treat) both types of stubbed toe can be a valuable first-aid skill.
1. **Check the condition of the toe immediately after the injury.** The first step to treating a stubbed toe is to see how bad the damage is. Carefully and gently remove the shoe and sock on the injured foot. Examine the injured toe, taking care not to injure it further by handling it roughly (a friend can help here). Look for the following signs:
A "bent" or "misaligned" appearance
Bleeding
A broken or misplaced nail
Bruising
Heavy swelling and/or discoloration
Depending on which (if any) of the above signs you see, the treatment for your toe can differ. See below for specific suggestions.
If it is too painful to remove your shoe and sock, you probably have a fracture or sprain in your toe and/or foot. This is not a dangerous condition, but you should still see a doctor to receive treatment.
2. **Clean and disinfect any abrasions or cuts.** If you notice any spots on the toe where the skin has been broken, you will want to clean them promptly to avoid infection. This includes cuts, scrapes, abrasions, and breaks in the nail. Carefully wash the toe with soap and warm water. Dry the toe gently with a clean cloth or paper towel, then rub a little anti-bacterial cream onto any breaks in the skin. Protect the toe with a clean bandage.
Replace the bandage every day as the toe heals.
See How to Clean a Wound for step-by-step information.
3. **Apply ice to reduce swelling.** Most stubbed toes will be followed by at least a little painful swelling. This can make the toe awkward, unwieldy, and even more vulnerable to pain. Luckily, it's easy to reduce the swelling with a cold compress. There are many ways to do this — for instance, you can use a gel ice pack, a bag of ice or even an unopened bag of frozen vegetables.
Whatever you use for your cold compress, wrap it in a towel or rag before pressing it into the skin. NEVER put your ice pack directly on your skin. Direct, prolonged ice-on-skin contact can further damage the skin, making your injury worse.
For the first 24 hours after you stub your toe, you should ice it for 20 minutes every waking hour. After that, you’ll only need to ice it two to three times a day until the pain subsides.
See our article on cold compresses for more detailed information.
4. **Avoid putting pressure on the toe.** Even mundane, day-to-day activities can be painful when you're walking on a stubbed toe. To reduce further pain and swelling, try to shift some of your weight to your heel as you walk and stand. This can be a difficult balance to strike, as putting all of your weight on your heel can make walking awkward and cause soreness over time. Try to take just enough pressure off of your toe to avoid pain when walking.
Once the swelling has subsided in your injured toe, light cushioning (for instance, a gel insole) can help minimize pain from walking.
If the pain in your toe doesn't subside after an hour or two, you may want to take a break from physical activities like sports, etc. for a few days until you no longer feel pain. Additionally, keeping it elevated with a pillow while laying down can help reduce both pain and swelling.
5. **Make sure your shoe has enough space for the toe.** Tight shoes can make a painful, swollen toe even more irritated. If you can, wear a loose, comfortable pair of shoes after your injury to protect the toe from more pressure. If you don't have a replacement pair of shoes available, you can try loosening the laces.
Open-toed shoes like sandals and flip-flops can be the best choices of all — not only do they put no pressure on the top and sides of the toe, but they also allow easy access for cold compresses, bandage changes, and so on.
6. **Treat lingering pain with over-the-counter medications.** If the pain from the stubbed toe doesn't subside on its own, over-the-counter (OTC) painkillers can be a good temporary solution. Here, you have many choices. Acetaminophen (paracetamol) and non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) like ibuprofen (Advil, Motrin) or naproxen (Aleve, Naprosyn) are both available in many varieties from nearly any grocery store or pharmacy.
Be sure to follow any and all dosage instructions on the medicine's packaging. Even (OTC) medicines can have dangerous side effects when taken in large doses.
Do not give aspirin to children.
7. **Support your toe by buddy taping.** Wrap tape around your stubbed toe and the toe next to it to give it a “buddy” for support. You can place a small piece of cotton in between your toes to prevent the area from becoming too moist.
Change the cotton daily.
8. **Elevate especially bad toes.** Another great way to reduce swelling is to elevate the injured toe above the body when you are sitting or resting. For instance, you might try propping it up on a stack of pillows when you lay down. Putting a swollen injury above the rest of your body makes it more difficult for the heart to pump blood to it. This causes blood to gradually flow out of the swollen area, reducing swelling. While it's basically impossible to do this while standing and walking, it's smart to take the time to elevate your injured toe whenever you plan on sitting or laying down for a long time.
9. **Be wary of lingering pain and inflammation.** As noted in the introduction, most stubbed toes are not serious injuries. Thus, a good indication that your stubbed toe is something more serious is if it does not seem to get better right away. Pain that doesn't get better in the same amount of time as an ordinary bruise is often a sign of an underlying problem that requires special treatment. Specifically, be on the lookout for the following signs:
Pain that doesn't lessen within an hour or two
Pain that fully returns whenever pressure is put on the toe
Swelling and/or inflammation that makes it difficult to walk or wear shoes for a few days
Bruise-like discoloration that doesn't go away within a few days
10. **Look for signs of fracture.** Especially-bad stubbed toes often result in a fracture (a break in the toe's bone). In this case, it's usually necessary to receive an X-ray, cast, or foot brace. Signs of a fracture include:
An audible "crack" or "pop" at the time of injury
A toe that visually appears "bent," "kinked," or "crooked"
Being unable to move the injured toe
Prolonged pain, inflammation and bruising.
Note that many broken toes don't prevent the injured person from walking. Being able to walk isn't a sign that a toe isn't broken.
11. **Look for signs of subungual hematoma (blood under the nail).** Another injury that's common from a stubbed toe is for blood to gather under the toenail. The pressure between the built-up blood and the nail can lead to prolonged inflammation and swelling, making recovery a long, uncomfortable process. In this case, a doctor can make a small hole in the nail, allowing the blood to drain and relieving the pressure. This procedure is called a trephination.
12. **Check for breaks in the nail.** A toe injury that causes part or all of the nail to detach from the nail bed can be extremely painful. While treatment at home may be possible in some cases, seeing a doctor will give you access to treatments for reducing pain, protecting the wound, and fighting infection that may not be available to you otherwise.
In addition, if an injury is serious enough to break your nail, it is possible that it has also caused a fracture or another problem that requires a doctor's help.
13. **Watch for signs of infection.** You can usually heal a stubbed toe at home just fine, but you should always be on the lookout for signs of infection. If you notice increased pain, redness, swelling, numbness, tingling, or a fever, see your medical provider as soon as possible.
14. **If the toe injury appears serious, see a doctor.** All of the problems mentioned above — toe fractures, hematomas, and nail breakages — are good reasons to see a doctor. A medical professional can use X-ray machines and other equipment to accurately diagnose your problem. In addition, doctors and nurses have the training necessary to instruct you how to protect your toe as it heals. Again, it's important to remember that most stubbed toes won't require medical attention. However, if you have reason to believe that yours is serious, don't be afraid to make an appointment.
Always follow your doctor's advice over advice you find online. If anything your doctor tells you contradicts something you've read in this article, listen to your doctor. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-a-Stubbed-Toe", "language": "en"} |
How to Introduce Yourself in Japanese | So you've just met someone who speaks Japanese, and you want to show respect to Ye Olde Nippon by making formalities in their mother tongue. It doesn't matter if it's a co-worker, exchange student, neighbor, or mutual friend – and it also doesn't matter whether or not they speak any English. Here are some quick rules of thumb that should help you make a good first impression.
1. **Say "Hajimemashite."** This translates to "Nice to meet you," or to something similar to "Let's begin a friendship." Pronounce it (ha-she Exchanging a "Hajimemashite" is usually the first step to introducing yourself in Japanese. "Hajimemashite" is a conjugation of "hajimeru," which is a verb meaning "to begin".
2. **Choose your greeting according to the time.** It is acceptable, though less common, to substitute these greetings for a "Hajimemashite." In Japanese, there are three basic ways to say hello: ohayou, konnichiwa, and konbanwa. Much like English-speakers say, "Good morning," "Good day," and "Good evening," the Japanese use different greetings to distinguish each time of day.
"Ohayou" (pronounced just like "Ohio") means "good morning" and is used pretty much anytime before noon. To make it more polite, say "ohayou gozaimasu" (go-zah-ee-MAHS).
"Konnichiwa" (KO-nee-chee-wah) means "good afternoon" and is also a standard hello. It can be used between noon and about 5 PM.
"Konbanwa" (kon-BAHN-wah) means "good evening," and is used between 5 PM and midnight. If you want to mix things up, you can say the Japanese equivalent of "Greetings," which is aisatsu (AH-ee-saht-soo).
3. **Introduce yourself.** The most common and simple way to introduce yourself in Japanese is the phrase "Watashi no namae wa ___ desu." (wah-TAH-shee no nah-MAH-eh wah ___ dess). It means "My name is ___." If you're using your full name, say your surname first.
For example: "Watashi no namae wa Miyazaki Hayao desu," means "My name is Hayao Miyazaki."
Bear in mind that Japanese people rarely use "watashi" in conversation. When introducing yourself, you can omit the "watashi wa" if you're comfortable trying to sound like a local. "Anata," which means "you," is similarly avoided. Thus, you can simply say "Joe desu," to tell someone that your name is Joe.
4. **Say "Yoroshiku onegaishimasu," to end your initial introduction.** Pronounce it (yor-OH-she-koo oh-nay-guy-ee-shee-mass). This translates roughly to "Please be nice to me." It may not be common to say something like this in English, but it is a very important phrase to remember when introducing yourself to native Japanese speakers. This is usually the last phrase that Japanese people use when they introduce themselves.
For a more casual form, you can just say "Yoroshiku." In almost all cases, however, you should err on the side of the more formal, more polite form.
If you're introducing yourself casually to a young person of similar social standing, you can omit almost all of the extra words. Simply say, "Joe desu. Yoroshiku," to mean "I'm Joe. Nice to meet you."
5. **Explain more about yourself.** You can use the "Watashi wa ___ desu" form to share other qualities, like age, nationality, or profession. "Watashi wa Amerikajin desu," (wah-TAH-shee wah a-mer-i-cah-shin dress) means "I am American." "Watashi wa juugosai desu," (wah-TAH-shee wah ju-u-go-sigh dress) means "I am fifteen years old."
6. **Start with a polite icebreaker.** The Japanese equivalent of "How are you?" is "Ogenki desu ka?" (oh-GEN-kee dess kah). However, this is an actual inquiry into the person's health. If you'd rather avoid a response, say "Otenki wa ii desu ne?" (oh-TEN-kee wah EE dess neh), which means "The weather's nice, isn't it?"
7. **Respond.** If you said "Ogenki desu ka," be ready to respond to their reply. When you ask this question, the person will most likely respond either "Genki desu," (GEN-kee dess) or "Maamaa desu" (MAH-MAH dess). The former means "I'm fine," and the latter means "I'm so-so." Either way: they will then ask you "Anata wa?" (ah-NAH-tah wah), which means "And you?" When they say this, you can respond "Genki desu, arigatou," (GEN-kee dess, ah-ree-GAH-to), which means "I'm fine, thank you."
You could also replace "arigatou" with "okagesama de" (oh-KAH-geh-sah-mah deh) which means basically the same thing.
8. **Know how to apologize.** If there's ever a time when you don't know what to say (or don't know what the person just said) don't be afraid to apologize and say so. You can do this in English, if you must, and use apologetic body language, but it wouldn't hurt to learn how to say sorry in Japanese. If need be, say "gomen nasai"（ごめんなさい）(goh-mehn nah-SAH-ee), which means "I'm sorry." | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Introduce-Yourself-in-Japanese", "language": "en"} |
How to End a Letter in Spanish | You may need to write a letter in Spanish to inquire about a job, confirm a hotel reservation, or simply catch up with a friend. The way you write your letter depends on the purpose of the letter and who will receive it. Generally, Spanish writing is more formal than English writing. To end a letter in Spanish, write an appropriate closing sentence at the end of the body of your letter. Then add a final greeting before your name.
1. **Let the recipient know you look forward to hearing back from them.** Quedo a la espera de su respuesta means "I'm looking forward to your answer." This is a good closing sentence for a formal letter in which you need a response from the recipient.
You can also use the closing sentence Espero su respuesta, which means "I await your reply."
2. **Offer assistance or further information in your closing sentence.** Por favor no dude en contactarme si necesita más información is a formal sentence that means "Please do not hesitate to contact me if you require any further information."
You could also use the similar sentence Cualquier cosa estoy a su disposición, which means "I am available should you have any questions."
3. **Thank the recipient in your closing sentence.** Use the phrase Gracias por su asistencia con este asunto if the purpose of your letter was to bring a matter to the recipient's attention. This is a formal sentence that means "thank you for your assistance in this matter."
For more specific expressions of gratitude, use muchas gracias por su ayuda ("thank you for your help") or muchas gracias por su tiempo ("thank you for your time").
4. **Use atentamente or cordialmente as a basic final greeting.** These Spanish final greetings are similar to "sincerely" or "sincerely yours" in English. You can also say muy atentamente, which means "very sincerely."
Saludos cordiales or un saludo cordial are more formal ways to say "cordial greetings." This final greeting may be appropriate if you're writing to someone older than you, or someone in a position of authority.
The phrase Le saludo atentamente means "I attentively send greetings," and is considerably more formal than the other options. Use it if you're writing to someone in a position of authority.
Cordialmente is typically considered a colder final greeting. It can be used if you are writing a complaint letter or expressing displeasure about something. However, you might not want to use it for more positive letters.
5. **Thank the recipient in your final greeting if you haven't already done so.** You may have included a word of thanks in your closing sentence. If you didn't, a final greeting such as gracias y saludos ("thank you and greetings") expresses your gratitude toward the recipient.
You could also write muchísimas gracias, which means "thank you very much."
6. **Let the person know you look forward to hearing from them.** If you want the person to write you back, close your letter with the sentence Espero saber de ti pronto, which means "I look forward to hearing from you soon."
You can also use the phrase Escríbeme pronto, which simply means "write back soon."
If you only want to hear back from the person when they have further information or news about something, you can write Escríbeme cuando tengas más información, a sentence that means "Send me news, when you know anything more."
7. **Send greetings to someone other than the recipient.** Sometimes you want to acknowledge someone else close to the recipient of the letter, such as a partner, spouse, or close friend. Do this by writing Saluda a Maria de mi parte, which means "Say hello to Maria for me." Substitute the name "Maria" for the name of your own friend or loved one.
For close friends or family members, you might also say Envía cariños a Maria y diles cuánto los extraño, a sentence that means "Give my love to Maria and tell them how much I miss them."
If there is someone in your life whose greetings you want to pass along, you can use the phrase Maria te envía muchos cariños, which means "Maria sends her love."
8. **Use a friendly final greeting, such as Cariños, before your signature.** The greeting Cariños means "best wishes" or "kindest regards," and is a common informal greeting used between friends, family, and colleagues.
You can also use the final greeting Mis mejores deseos, which means "all the best."
If you're not extremely close to the recipient of the letter, you might use un saludo or saludos. These final greetings simply mean "greetings" or "cheers."
9. **Choose a more affectionate greeting if you're close to the recipient.** If you're writing to a close friend or family member, a greeting like cariños might seem cold. There are more affectionate final greetings you can use instead, such as besos y abrazos ("hugs and kisses").
There are numerous ways to express affection using similar words. For example, you might say un abrazo ("a hug"), un fuerte abrazo ("a big hug"), un beso ("a kiss"), or besos ("kisses").
If you want to say "with love," use the phrase con amor. You can also use con cariño, which means "with affection."
10. **Write more formally if the recipient is in a position of authority.** Use the formal second-person pronoun usted (or ustedes, if your letter is addressed to more than one person) when writing to someone older than you, or who is in charge of something.
If you're making a request or seeking confirmation of something, you would almost always use formal language. For example, if you're writing a letter to confirm your hotel reservations, write formally.
11. **Take an informal tone if you know the recipient well.** If you're writing to someone younger than you, or to a close friend or family member, you'll typically use informal speech. Address them with the second-person pronoun tú.
If your letter is addressed to more than one person, use the second-person plural pronoun ustedes – unless you're writing to someone in Spain. Spaniards use an informal second-person plural pronoun, vosotros.
You may want to maintain a formal tone if the recipient is significantly older than you, even if you know them well. For example, if you were writing a letter to your grandmother, you would probably use usted rather than tú in your letter, even if you were very close to her. She is older, and the formal pronoun indicates respect.
12. **Keep business letters courteous and professional.** A more formal tone is appropriate for business letters, even if you're writing to a friendly colleague. If the letter has a business purpose, it may be shared with others you don't know, or kept in business records.
Keep personal inquiries or information out of a business letter. For example, if you're writing to a co-worker you're friends with about a work-related matter, you wouldn't ask them about their plans for their upcoming birthday.
13. **Adjust your tone to reflect your familiarity with the recipient.** If you're writing a personal letter, you may use more casual and affectionate language – even if you're using formal pronouns. However, if the person you're writing to is a stranger, you would typically refrain from being causal or affectionate.
While the specific words are different, the same concept applies in English. You wouldn't write a letter to a company asking for a job and sign it "with love." Likewise, when ending a letter in Spanish, choose a closing that falls in line with the purpose of your letter and your familiarity with the recipient.
14. **Use a more formal tone whenever you have doubts.** Spanish is generally a more formal language than English. If you can't decide what tone to use, err on the side of formality. No one will fault you for writing too formally. However, a letter that's too casual could send the wrong impression.
For example, if you used the pronoun tú in a cover letter to apply for a job, you'd likely not get called for an interview – even if you were highly qualified for the position. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/End-a-Letter-in-Spanish", "language": "en"} |
How to Stop Feeling Like Your Life Isn't Good Enough | In an age when money, fame, and good looks are idolized, it can be hard to feel great about life when you don't have these things. Feeling down about your life doesn't have to be a bad thing; it can actually be a useful motivator to help you get the life you always wanted. However, you must understand that satisfaction in your life must come from within, not without. Look inwards to start seeing the potential your life has right now.
1. **Be nice and kind** Believe it or not, this can be the first step to feeling your own power. If you don't see yourself as worthy or good enough, you might not recognize the effect you can have on others. Truth is, no matter who you are, you have the power to positively (or negatively) impact the world. Your lousy mood can be contagious; however, happiness and positivity are, too. Research shows that doing something kind for someone else increases the 'feel-good' chemical in our brains, known as serotonin. So, even when you're not feeling too great, try to be nice to others - you'll feel better in the process.
Take a moment to make eye contact. Ask others how they're doing or offer a sincere compliment. Try to remember names and ask friends or coworkers about their loved ones.
Give people the benefit of the doubt. You don't know what's happening in their lives. You might be the one and only person to treat them like a human being today. You may not realize how just one kind word or smile - even from a stranger - can lift someone's spirit.
2. **Fake it until you make it.** Going through the motions of feeling happy and content can actually lead to contentment. Just as doing something kind for others can make us feel better about ourselves, pretending that we are in a great mood can, too.
If you wake up one morning feeling particularly low, try to stop the cycle by channeling positive energy. Look in the mirror and smile at yourself. It may feel silly, but it works. When you go out into the world and others ask you how you're doing, answer as if it's the best day of your life. Say things like "I'm having a marvelous day" or "The day just keeps getting better and better."
Projecting happiness can result in a self-fulfilling prophecy. After you've spent an hour or so smiling and commenting on how great a day you're having, you'll eventually find that you really are having a good day. In fact, research shows that just faking a smile and arranging your facial expression in this way can invoke some of the same autonomic changes that a genuine smile can deliver. For example, holding a pencil in your teeth activates the smile muscles, and, in time, you will find that you are feeling calmer and more happy.
3. **Learn to value deeper virtues.** Sometimes you may undervalue all the good things in your life because you are focusing on superficial possessions like a car, your looks, or your house. Superficial things can be fleeting. Fortunes can be lost. Nonetheless, some traits like love, honor, integrity, and honesty are enduring. Learn to appreciate natural beauty, good character, true friendship and your family.
Develop a list of positive adjectives that describe yourself and the people around you. Reliability, trustworthiness, compassion. All of these are terrific traits that may go overlooked. Identify what you value in yourself and other people, and then make an effort to notice when these traits are being displayed in yourself and in others.
Try to compliment others on their values rather than their looks or possessions (you can still do this but also include some value-based compliments). Say to a friend, "I really appreciate how I can always depend on you to be honest with me. Even when your opinion differs from mine, I can count on you to be straightforward. Thanks."
4. **Change your self-talk.** How you're feeling about yourself and your life may come down to what you're telling yourself in your head. Your self-talk can make or break you. Positive self-talk brings confidence, increased self-efficacy, and a greater mood. Negative self-talk, on the contrary, results in a vicious cycle of depression, anxiety, and poor self-esteem. Follow these strategies to transform your self-talk:
Avoid all-or-nothing thinking, like that you need to change your whole life—instead, think about one or two specific areas of your life where you feel the most dissatisfied. Then, think about whether there's anything you can do to improve those areas.
Be conscious of your thoughts. Ask yourself whether they make you feel better or worse?
When you identify a negative thought, work to change it into a more positive statement. For example, consider these thoughts: "I am worthless. I will never find a job I like." They are clearly negative and block future growth and opportunities. Alter such statements into more positive, hopeful thoughts like: "I have many talents and gifts. I must find a job or past-time that enables me to further develop my talents."
Talk to yourself how you would talk to a dear friend. You would not belittle or criticize a dear friend. You would show this person compassion and recall positive characteristics the person is discounting. Show yourself the same compassion.
5. **Reflect on your positive attributes.** When you compare your life to that of others, you downplay your own accomplishments. Comparison is the thief of joy. And, you will never feel like your life is amazing, if the standard you are measuring your own success by is that of someone else's. There will always be someone else who is smarter, faster, or richer. Still, there is only one you. Take a moment to recognize all the wonderful things you bring to the table.
After considering some of your strengths, write them down on little pieces of paper. Tape a few to the mirror so that you can see them as you get ready each morning. Put one in your wallet and in your car's sun visor. Think of these as little reminders of all you have to offer.
If you find it difficult to identify your strengths, do a self-exploration activity to uncover them. Grab a pen and paper and reflect for a few minutes on a good experience that has happened in your life. Think about how you handled this experience and how your excellence was demonstrated. Consider which activities and projects you enjoy doing most. These are those that portray your strengths.
6. **Stop glorifying celebrities.** When you compare yourself to other people and their lifestyles, it is very easy to get caught up in thinking they have it better than you. First, it's unrealistic to compare your life to another person's, and second, you have no idea what their lives are really like beyond the glitz and glam. Outward appearances can mask an incredible amount of pain, debt, sorrow, anger, frustration, loss, boredom and who knows what else. Don't believe the hype. Famous people are still people.
7. **Recognize that all humans are flawed.** As described above, all people have both desirable and undesirable traits. When you find yourself dwelling on your own flaws, but overestimating everyone else's strengths, you need to stop and perform a reality check. Examine your self-talk and listen closely to what you are telling yourself. Challenge irrational or negative thoughts like "Everyone seems to have nice clothes but me." If you look around yourself, you are certain to find an exception to such a statement.
8. **Enrich your life.** One reason you may not feel good about your life is because you are not putting all of your skills and talents to use. Find ways to be purposeful in your life. For instance, if you enjoy creating music, offer to perform for a religious or nonprofit organization.
On the contrary, you might feel dissatisfied with life because you are not being challenged. Think about ways you can kick your life up a notch, whether that is by learning a new language, picking up a new hobby, or teaching others skills you've already mastered.
In addition to challenging you, hobbies help you to strengthen social bonds and enhance your self-esteem and self-efficacy.
9. **Cultivate a grateful heart.** Gratitude is the one thing that most people who feel a low sense of self-worth lack. If you can look outside your own world, and see how good you really have it, you will feel much more like your life is worthwhile. If you don't have a terminal illness, have had something to eat today, and have a bed to sleep in tonight, materially speaking, you have it better than 70% of all the people in the whole world.
Start a gratitude journal or download an app on your smart phone to regularly record all the things you are thankful for. Do this regularly to start seeing all the positives in your life.
10. **Notice small, yet meaningful moments in your life.** Think back on times when you felt truly alive and meaningful. Maybe you were there to support a friend going through a hard time, or maybe you made someone else feel special and loved. Recall the feelings you experienced during these moments. Notice that you have significant things happening in your life on a regular basis that point to your value.
11. **Realize that being a part of your family is important.** You may not have family, in this case, you must cherish the relationships you have with close friends. If you have children, a spouse, parents, siblings, or best friends you are highly fortunate. Scientists have discovered that those without rich social relationships have a 50 percent higher likelihood of premature death.
Since maintaining healthy relationships with family and friends is integral to your long-term health, do what you can to strengthen these connections. Let friends and family know you appreciate them and the roles they play in your life.
12. **Help others.** There is nothing that will make you feel like you are valued, needed, and essential like volunteering to help and serve others who are less fortunate than you. Help the elderly, coach at an after-school children's center, feed the homeless, help build a home for someone (Habitat for Humanity), or collect toys for orphanages at Christmas time.
Volunteering allows you to: reduce stress, exercise your usefulness, strengthen your immune system, and make a difference in your community. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Stop-Feeling-Like-Your-Life-Isn%27t-Good-Enough", "language": "en"} |
How to Add Shimmer to Fondant | When decorating cakes, a shiny fondant ribbon can add beauty and elegance to your creation. Creating the sheen on fondant is easy if you have the right tools and supplies. Here are the steps to add shimmer to fondant.
1. **Buy an appropriate dusting powder to create your shiny fondant.** Different types of dusts will produce different levels of shine for your rolled fondant. The grain size of certain dust powders may be larger than others.
2. **Use a clean makeup brush, such as one for applying blush, to dust your fondant with powder.** Other alternative brushes you can use are a small paintbrush or an airbrush.
3. **Pour about a 1/4 tsp.** (1.25 ml) of dusting powder into a small bowl or cup. Do this carefully and try not to breathe or inhale the powder.
4. **Use a small paintbrush, the kind used by artists, to mix the powder in the bowl or cup with a few drops of a clear alcoholic spirit or flavor extract.** Vodka or gin can be used as well as clear vanilla or lemon extract.
5. **Apply the paint to your fondant with the mixing brush.**
6. **Dampen the surface of your fondant by brushing water or another liquid over it if using Wilton's Primary Shimmer Dust.**
7. **Sprinkle the Primary Shimmer Dust from its jar onto the damp fondant.**
8. **Shake off the excess powder and reserve it for decorating other fondant pieces.** | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Add-Shimmer-to-Fondant", "language": "en"} |
How to Play with Your Pet Rat | Rats are really intellegent creatures and enjoy lots of play time. It is important that you play with your rats, otherwise they get bored, and may bite you gently. This article will help you with ideas to play, and keep your rats busy.
1. **Hide treats for your rat to find.** Stash small pieces of food in your pockets or the folds of your clothing and let your rat search for them. They’ll have a ball clamoring all over you to try to sniff out the tasty morsels.
Fruits and veggies such as peas, carrots, potatoes, squash, strawberries, grapes, and apples, along with items like whole nuts and seeds, make great treats for domesticated rats.
You can also use strips of colored paper or small shiny objects to tantalize your pet rat if you’ve already fed it for the day.
2. **Play peek-a-boo with your rat.** Set your rat directly across from you on the floor or a tabletop, then quickly duck out of sight. It will scamper around excitedly when you suddenly reappear. Change up your hiding place every so often to keep it guessing.
Your rat may come looking for you if it becomes curious enough, turning it into a game of hide-and-seek.
Peek-a-boo is a fun and simple way to interact with your rat at any time, whether it’s in or out of its cage.
3. **Show your rat some affection.** Set aside a few minutes each day to make your pet feel loved. Stroke its fur slowly or turn it over and rub its belly with the pads of your fingers. Some rats also love a good scratch behind the ears, under the chin, or just above the tail. All of them relish physical contact and attention.
Hold your rat close to you while you pet it. Being able to feel the warmth of your body will help it relax and strengthen your bond.
If your rat is extra happy, it may even return your affection by licking you like a dog!
4. **Wrestle with your rat.** Gently push, grab, and roll your rat over, or pretend that your hand is another rat and chase it around. This is a great way to help your pet work off excess energy. Don’t forget to let it win every now and then!
Be careful not to get too rough. Rats are delicate creatures, and you could accidentally hurt them if you use too much force.
If your rat begins moving frantically or appears overstimulated, put it back in its cage until it calms down.
5. **Toss your rat onto a cushioned surface.** Pick your rat up and drop it onto a pillow or mound of blankets from a short distance. Chances are, it’ll come scurrying back for more. It may sound strange, but rats enjoy getting thrown around a little, similar to puppies and kittens.
Try to make sure your rodent buddy lands on its feet to avoid a bumpy landing.
6. **Fill your rat’s cage with toys.** Toys for rodents come in all kinds of different forms, from running wheels and tunnel blocks to ropes and rubber chew toys for nibbling. A couple of these toys can provide your pet with hours of entertainment. Best of all, they’ll fit right inside your rat’s cage without taking up too much space.
A hanging ball feeder can double as both a source of food and an engaging plaything.
If you don’t feel like making a trip to the pet store, try making your own toys out of materials like discarded cardboard, plastic drink bottles, and PVC pipe.
Make sure to switch out your rat’s toys on a regular basis so that they will always have something different to play with.
7. **Set up a maze or obstacle course.** Use small cardboard tubes and boxes to build structures for your rat to explore. You’ll be amazed by how long it will amuse itself by crawling, climbing, and finding new ways to overcome obstacles.
Stack flat materials on top of one another to create multi-level structures.
Empty product packages are perfect for converting into tunnels and chambers.
8. **Place some shredded paper in your rat’s cage.** Tear up a paper towel or shopping bag and drop the pieces into your rat’s cage. It will quickly get to work finding hiding places for them.
If you don’t feel like shredding paper for hours on end, simply leave a box of tissues inside your rat’s cage for it to busy itself with.
Giving your rat a few bits of paper to horde will make it feel like you’re sharing your treasures with it.
9. **Make a digging box for your rat.** Fill a small container with sterile potting soil and place it in one corner of your rat’s cage. Digging is so much fun for rats that they’ll often forget about everything else around them.
Bury tiny toys and treats in the container and send your rat on a scavenger hunt.
Your rat will be pretty dirty when it’s done playing. It may be a good idea to give it a bath before holding it or letting it run around your home.
10. **Give your rat a friend to play with.** Get a second (or more) rat to keep your pet company. Rats are very social creatures and need cagemates. Even if you played with them all day they would still need another rat.
11. **** Don’t keep male and female rats caged together once they’re more than about 5 weeks old. This is around the time that they begin producing—if you’re not careful, you could end up with a litter of pups on your hands!
12. **Teach your rat to come when called.** Set your rat down a few paces away and coax it toward you with a handful of treat while saying its name repeatedly. Once it reaches you, reward it with a treat and belly scratch. After a few attempts, it should begin to respond consistently, even without the promise of a treat.
Move your hand a little further away each time so you rat has more distance to travel. Eventually, it will learn to come to you from all the way across the room.
13. **Create a play environment in a closed-off area.** Take your rat to an open room where it can run around to its heart’s content. Keep the door to the room closed at all times while your pet is playing, and be sure to block off access to electrical outlets and air vents to protect it from harm.
This can be a good opportunity to play a few of your rat’s favorite games, like chase or hide and seek.
If you have other pets, make sure they’re crated or secured in another room while your rat is out and about.
14. **Let your rat roam freely when you’re too busy to play.** If your rat is well-behaved, you may be able to simply turn it loose and trust it to stay nearby while you’re working, studying, or watching TV. Trained and older rats tend to be especially reliable, and usually won’t venture too far from your side.
Try not to ignore your rat for too long. Take a break every now and then to see what it’s up to and show it some attention.
15. **Take your rat outside for some fresh air.** Place your furry friend in a carrier or simply hold it in both hands while you go for a stroll. Remember, rats are wild animals, so it’s important for them to spend time in their natural habitat. Just be careful not to let your pet get loose, or you may never see it again!
Petting your rat gently while your walk will help keep it calm and prevent it from trying to struggle free.
If you’re handy with building materials, you might be able to section off a part of your yard to keep your rat contained while it frolics outdoors. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Play-with-Your-Pet-Rat", "language": "en"} |
How to Look up a Bible Verse | People quote the Bible in a variety of contexts. If you want to be able to look those quotes up, you’ll need to understand the way the Bible is organized. It’s also possible to look up quotes without knowing their location. Simply knowing a couple of words from a verse can be enough to help you locate it if you know how.
1. **Identify the book of the verse.** When Bible verses are listed, the first thing you’ll see is the name of a book. Use the table of contents in your Bible to locate that book within it. The table of contents is at the beginning of the Bible. Locate the name in the table of contents and turn to the page associated with the start of the book. The name of the book might be abbreviated or spelled out completely. Some books include:
Exodus (Ex)
Genesis (Gen)
Numbers (Num)
2. **Identify the chapter.** After the book name, you’ll see two numbers. The first number is the chapter. For example, in “John 3:16”, “3” is the chapter number. Look at the verse and determine which chapter it is from in the book.
Some people may cite Bible verse using abbreviations and Roman numerals. For example, Lev. xx:13 is the same as Leviticus, chapter 20, verse 13.
Locate that chapter within the book. You may be able to find the location of that chapter in the table of contents. If not, you can thumb through the specific book until you see that chapter.
As with other books, it should clearly say, “Chapter __” at the beginning of each chapter.
In addition, many versions clearly say, <Book name> <Chapter>:<Verse> at the top of each page indicating the first verse on that page. Some also note the last verse on the page.
3. **Identify the verse number.** The second number after the book name is the verse number. This number should come after a colon (:). In the case of John 3:16, 16 would be the verse number.
If you're looking up a longer passage, there may be two numbers, separated by a hyphen (-). For example, in John 3:16-18, you're looking for verses 16,17, and 18.
4. **Locate the verse within the chapter.** Once you’ve found the chapter, go through it until you find the verse. The verses go in numerical order, just like chapters. There should be a small number at the beginning of each sentence or a small group of sentences. This is the verse number. If you're looking for multiple verses, such as John 3:16-18, 17 and 18 would follow directly after 16.
5. **Choose a concordance.** A concordance is a book that lists every instance of a word’s appearance in the Bible. This is a great tool if you remember the verse, or part of the verse, but you don’t know which book or chapter it came from.
Concordances can be found through religious retailers or online. Your church may also have one that you can borrow.
6. **Search for a word from the verse.** Remember an important word from the verse. Look it up in the concordance the same way that you would look it up in a dictionary. Concordances are alphabetized.
Choose a distinctive word that may have limited occurrences, such as “flood,” “mountain,” or “rubies.” If you choose something like “love” or “evil” you’re likely to find an enormous number of results.
7. **Search for other words if necessary.** If you find too many results, or you don’t see the verse you’re looking for, try searching for another word. For example, if you remember the phrase, “love must be sincere” and you searched “love” but found too many results, try looking up, “sincere.”
8. **Locate the verse from the concordance list.** The concordance will list all of the places where that word is found in the Bible. A complete concordance will give you some context so that you can be sure it’s the verse you’re looking for.
Use the location that the concordance gives you (for example, Romans 12:9) to look up the complete verse and its context in your bible.
9. **Try another translation if necessary.** Concordances are specific to translations. If you can’t find the verse you’re looking for, try a concordance for a different translation. For example, if your Bible translated a word to the English word “praise," but your concordance is for a Bible that translated that word as “worship,” it will be impossible to look up the verse.
10. **Search the verse number online.** Choose a search engine, or go to a website dedicated to Bible study. Type the name of the book and the chapter and verse numbers into the search engine.
Type the verse number in the generally accepted format if you can. For example, you'll get more accurate results if you type, "John 3:16," than, "Chapter 3 16 John."
11. **Remember what you can about the verse.** Do you remember a certain phrase of the verse? Maybe you remember one or two words and the name of the book it came from. Even if you can’t remember very much, you can likely still look up the verse.
12. **Enter what you know into a search engine.** Type in everything you can remember. You should also include the words “Bible” and “verse” to make sure that you get results that are relevant to your search.
Your search terms may be something like, “Bible verse about wives in Psalms,” or “Bible verse chapter 7 desert.”
13. **Use a site designed for Bible searches.** There are plenty of sites online that catalog Bible verses by subject or by book. You can use one of these websites to search for the verse. Type in a keyword or a subject. You may also be able to do an advanced search by book or chapter.
These online tools can be great ways to find other verses that may be relevant to you or helpful in your studies or prayers.
14. **Search related words.** If you can’t remember any exact words from the verse, or your search is not going well, search related words. For example, if you searched for “stars” and didn’t find anything, you could search for “night” or “sky” or “heavens” to see if the verse shows up. It’s possible you’re using a different translation or that you misremembered details about the verse. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Look-up-a-Bible-Verse", "language": "en"} |
How to Do Laundry at a Laundromat | If you’ve never used a laundromat, don’t worry—the process is fairly simple and you’ll get the hang of it in no time. To start, get a cloth laundry bag, as opposed to a hard plastic or metal basket, since the cloth bag will be much easier to carry and maneuver on your way to the laundromat. Fill it with your laundry after you’ve sorted it and take it to the laundromat with your laundry detergent and fabric softener. Find an unoccupied washer and dryer and complete your laundry the way you normally do after paying for each machine that you’re using.
1. **Find a laundromat in your area to make carrying your clothes easier.** If you don’t know where your closest laundromat is located, look online to find a laundromat that won’t require a lot of travel. Hauling your clothes all over the place is a pain, so go to the laundromat closest to you unless you have unique requirements or a vehicle that you can drive to the laundromat.
If you’re carrying a lot of laundry, don’t risk your back by walking to the laundromat if it’s farther than 1 block away.
Laundromats tend to be busier on the weekend. If you want the best chance of getting an open machine, do your laundry during the week.
Some laundromats are open 24 hours a day. Look for a laundromat that is always open if you want to do your laundry late at night or early in the morning.
2. **Separate your colors and whites and layer them in your laundry basket.** Some people will wash whites on one night and return to the laundromat the next day to wash their colors. Many people simply use 2 machines to wash their colors and whites at the same time. Either way, sort your laundry into 2 separate piles based on the color. Put your whites at the bottom of the laundry basket and place your colors on top. Alternatively, you can get 2 laundry bags to keep your clothes sorted as you travel. This way, you won’t need to waste time separating your clothes at the laundromat.
You can put a sheet of cardboard or some other kind of divider in between your colors and whites if you want to make retrieving each set of clothes from a single basket easier.
If you’re walking to the laundromat, a cloth laundry bag will be easier to carry than a hard-plastic or metal bin.
If you’re really dedicated to washing materials properly, read each tag on your items of clothing for washing instructions and sort lighter colors from your darks. Wash your jeans separately, and keep delicate fabrics together for a separate load.
3. **Bring change with you to operate the washing machines and dryers.** The machines at laundromats are almost always coin-operated. Loads typically cost $0.50-2.00 depending on where you live and the size of the machine that you’re using. Take a bag full of change with you to the laundromat to operate the machines.
Newer laundromats may have machines that take credit and debit cards, but these machines are pretty rare. Don’t assume that you’ll be able to use a card without contacting the laundromat first.
4. **Bring your laundry detergent, dryer sheets, and fabric softener with you.** Laundromats typically sell detergent, dryer sheets, and fabric softener, but the prices are much higher than they normally are at a grocery or corner store. To save money, bring laundry detergent and any fabric softener with you to avoid needing to buy them at the store.
5. **Find a washing machine that is unoccupied and check inside the drum.** Once you walk into the laundromat, look for a washing machine that isn’t in use. When you find one, put your laundry basket down and open the door. Look inside to ensure that the last person to use the machine hasn’t left anything behind.
Smell the drum before using it. If it smells like bleach, avoid putting non-white clothing inside.
Some laundromats offer several sizes of machine. If your laundromat does, feel free to grab a bigger machine if you think it’ll save you some time. Larger machines are typically designed to hold twice as many clothes as a standard machine.
Try to avoid grabbing a machine next to an in-use machine in case the other person is planning on using multiple machines.
If there is something in the machine and there’s a clerk at the laundromat, turn the lost item into the clerk. If there isn’t an employee there, leave the forgotten item on top of the machine.
6. **Use 2 washing machines if you’re washing colors and whites separately.** If you have 2 loads of laundry to do, look for 2 empty machines that are right next to one another. If the laundromat is completely packed though, it is considered bad etiquette to take up 2 machines. Avoid loading the machines past the rim of the drum. If you do, your clothes won’t get properly cleaned and you may damage the machine.
It is not ideal to use 2 machines that are located in different parts of the store. If someone tries messing with your laundry, you want to be there.
7. **Load your clothes and add your detergent.** Once you’ve selected a machine, load your clothes into the drum. If you’re using multiple machines, load both machines at the same time. Add detergent based on how big your load of laundry is. The average load of laundry is 6–7 pounds (2.7–3.2 kg) and will fill 3/4 of a standard machine. Fill the cap halfway with detergent for an average load and adjust accordingly if you have more or less laundry to do.
There are usually instructions on the container of laundry detergent that suggest how much soap you should use. There are also hash marks on the inside of the cap indicating what a full or half load is for your particular detergent.
If you’re using pods, put 1 pod in with each load, regardless of how many clothes you’re washing.
Many people prefer to use less soap. If you want to cut back on soap, fill your cap so that it’s 1/8 full. This is usually 2 tablespoons (30 mL) for a standard detergent.
Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding fabric softener. Typically, you fill the cap either halfway or to the rim and add it directly to your laundry.
8. **Insert your coins and turn the dial to your preferred setting.** Once your clothes are loaded, insert coins into the slot on the machine. Turn the dial to the cycle that you want to run and press the “Start” button or pull the dial out to initiate the cycle. For a standard cycle, use the “Standard,” “Normal,” or “Cotton” setting.
If you’re washing sensitive fabrics or expensive items, use the “Delicates” setting.
“Permanent Press” is designed to wash jeans or clothes that wrinkle easily.
Some machines have separate cycles for whites and colors. Use these settings if they’re available and you’ve sorted your laundry by color.
9. **Wait for the cycle to finish.** Bring a book, handheld game, or newspaper if you want to distract yourself while the clothes are drying. Alternatively, use your time to get some work done, answer emails, or finish homework. Stay in the laundromat if you want to assure that nobody messes with your clothes and your cycle runs through to completion.
10. **Find an unoccupied dryer nearby and inspect it.** Often, there’s a dryer attached to each laundry machine at the laundromat. If there isn’t, you’ll need to move your clothes, though. Either way, once you find an unoccupied dryer, open it to inspect the drum and look for forgotten items of clothing. Take a sniff to see if the drum smells moldy or wet. If it does, the machine is likely not working properly. Find a different dryer if this is the case.
Like the washing machines, you can use multiple drying machines at the same time if you’re drying multiple loads.
11. **Load your clothes into the dryer.** Dry each individual load of clothing in separate dryers. Remove your wet clothes and transfer them to your dryer. When you finish loading the clothes, put your coins into the corresponding slot to turn the machine on.
12. **Insert coins and select your dryer setting before starting the cycle.** Use the standard cycle for a standard wash load. Use the “Delicate” or “Low Heat” setting for sensitive fabrics. If there’s a timed cycle, use 45-60 minutes based on the size of your load. Pull the dial out or press the “Start” button to initiate your cycle.
Some machines allow you to adjust the amount of heat that you use to dry your clothes. The more heat that you use, the more likely your clothes are to shrink—especially if they’re made out of cotton.
If you aren’t sure if you can machine dry a particular item of clothing, read the tag. There are washing and drying instructions on most clothing tags.
Feel free to add dryer sheets or dryer balls to your dryer if you want to keep your clothes wrinkle and static free.
13. **Wait for the drying cycle to finish.** Once your drying cycle starts, you’ll have another 30-60 minutes to kill. Continue reading your book, answering emails, or catching up on homework. Stay nearby to ensure that nobody interrupts your cycle.
If you felt comfortable leaving during the wash cycle, there’s no reason you can’t leave again. Feel free to go grab a cup of coffee or hang out at a nearby store.
14. **Remove your clothes and fold them if you’d like.** When the dryer finishes running, open the door and remove your clothes. You can fold them if you’d like, but there’s no rule that you have to do it at the laundromat. It’s totally up to you whether you want to fold your clothes before putting them back in your laundry basket and going home. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Do-Laundry-at-a-Laundromat", "language": "en"} |
How to Deal With Being Rejected by Your Parent | There’s no argument: rejection hurts. The pain felt after being rejected by a person who is naturally supposed to accept you, however, is an altogether different pain. When a parent rejects you, you may feel insecure and angry—and that’s perfectly normal! Learn to cope with these painful feelings by reacting in a healthy way and working to overcome any negative effects of your parent’s rejection. You may also reach out to others around you for encouragement and support.
1. **Share your disappointment with your parent.** Odds are, if your parent rejected you, you may not have gotten the opportunity to fully tell your side of things. If so, find a way to express your feelings to your parent. You might do this by asking to meet in person, calling them, or composing a letter or email.
Tell them how disappointed and hurt you feel about their rejection in as much detail as you can. If they are open to listening, you might use this opportunity to share your story. For example, if they rejected you because of your religious choices, you might explain why you chose a specific religion.
How you choose to share your feelings depends on your ongoing relationship with your parent. If you have become estranged, a letter or email may be the best method.
2. **Grieve.** Being rejected by a parent hurts. Pretending like it doesn’t will only delay your recovery. Allow yourself to feel those feelings however they come. You might need to cry, journal, listen to music, or watch a movie that matches the emotions you’re experiencing.
If you don’t want to spend too much time wallowing, give yourself a deadline. For instance, you might say, “In a week, I will try to pull myself together.”
Setting a deadline doesn’t mean you will have fully processed all your grief. It simply pushes you to return to your life despite the pain.
3. **Talk to someone you trust.** Ask for the ear of someone who cares about you. Maybe that’s a friend, a sibling, a teacher, or your other parent. Tell this person how you’re feeling.
If you’re not sure how to approach the subject, you might start with something like, “Hey, Randy. Can we talk? I’ve been feeling really rejected by dad and I thought maybe you would understand.”
4. **See if you can stay with other family.** If you're living with a parent who rejects you, staying with them may only complicate matters. They may treat you unfairly or ignore you completely. Talk to your other parent, other relatives, and friends and see if you can bunk with someone else for a short while.
If you are being physically abused, you may be able to locate a shelter in your community for adolescents and young adults who need to leave home.
If you are an adult, you might choose to get distance from a parent who rejects you by moving to another city or further away from your hometown.
Your chosen family, whomever they may be, can offer an opportunity to build a new, happier, healthier, and more emotionally stable life.
Always refrain from any situation where love is conditional, limited, or based on negative judgement.
5. **Find an outlet for anger.** Children and adults who are rejected by their parents may deal with anger problems and aggression. Counteract these negative effects by finding positive ways to manage your anger.
You might pick up a new physical activity, such as running or boxing. Other ways to express anger might be through creative pursuits like dancing, painting, or writing.
6. **Own your story.** Rejection can make you question yourself and your decisions. You might also feel ashamed. Work to overcome this by taking ownership of your story and your experience. Don’t feel like you need to hide or change who you are because of the rejection.
Start by writing a narrative. Detail all the events that led up to the rejection and how they have affected you. Try to include any thoughts and feelings relating to the event. Write the narrative through your own eyes as opposed to your parent’s.
Once you’ve written your story, share it with others. Try starting with a best friend, a favorite teacher, or a school counselor. If you're an adult, share your story with a partner or close pal.
7. **Repeat loving affirmations.** You’ll have many relationships throughout your lifetime, but the most constant relationship you’ll ever have is with yourself. That’s why self-love can be a powerful tool for dealing with rejection.
Try repeating a loving affirmation daily, such as “I am at peace with all that has happened and all that will happen because everything is working towards my greatest good.”
When you repeat affirmations that reinforce self-love, it may feel strange at first. However, over time, you might find yourself reciting them more loudly and confidently. You might even come to believe them.
8. **Don’t take responsibility for the rejection.** After being rejected by a parent, you might experience a great deal of insecurity in your relationships and life in general. One way to overcome insecurity is by boosting your optimism and learning to look on the bright side of things.
One trick for developing optimism is recognizing that you aren’t always responsible for how things turn out.
Do your best to remind yourself that any rejection or judgement is more about the person who rejected you. If a parent has been critical or rejects you, stop trying to gain their approval. Instead, let them come to you if they want to build a relationship later in life.
For example, you can’t control how your parent acts; you can only control your own behavior. In other words, don’t blame yourself for how they treated you. It’s a parent’s job to be loving and accepting. If they don’t do their job, it’s not your fault.
9. **Build healthy ways of relating to others.** The insecurity that follows parental rejection can affect the way you relate to friends, other family, and future romantic partners. You might be tempted to isolate or push others away out of fear of being abandoned or rejected.
Firstly, don’t depend on others to build your self-worth. Whether someone calls or doesn’t calls, likes you or not, you are always worthy. Remembering this will reflect positively on your relationships.
Secondly, take your relationships slowly. Give them time to naturally develop without you assuming anything or trying to force them to be something they’re not. Be mindful of your relationships with others and cut off needy behaviors as soon as you notice them.
10. **Build community with others like you.** One of the best ways to deal with rejection is to find your tribe. Identify others who share your interests, values, and beliefs and forge relationships with these people. When you do this, you will feel more confident about yourself and your story.
Connect with others by joining clubs and organizations in your local community and online.
11. **Reach out to other family members.** Just because one person in your family rejected you, doesn’t mean everyone will. Get in touch with your other parent (unless they rejected you, also), siblings, aunts, uncles, and grandparents. If these people are willing to support you, let them.
12. **Join a support group.** As hard as it is to believe, there are others who have gone through similar experiences as yours. Search online or in your local area for support groups that help you connect with these people. You may find a new support system and an outlet for coping by meeting with others who’ve gone through what you have.
For instance, if your parent rejected you because of your sexual orientation, you might search for a support group for youths who recently came out of the closet.
13. **See a therapist.** There are a range of negative effects from parental rejection, such as anger, insecurity, or depression. In the weeks, months, and years that follow, you may need help coming to terms with the rejection and owning your story. A professional mental health therapist can help you do this.
Ask your family doctor or the members of your support group for suggestions of therapists in your area.
If you are a student, you might also talk to your school counselor. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Deal-With-Being-Rejected-by-Your-Parent", "language": "en"} |
How to Recover from a Relationship With a Sociopath | The American Psychiatric Association defines a sociopath as someone with an antisocial personality disorder, who has a disregard for moral and legal cultural standards. Even though they often come across as charming and sociable individuals, sociopaths generally demonstrate a severe lack of empathy for others, and typically does not feel guilty about their actions. A sociopath may repeatedly lie and manipulate others for their own gain. Recover from a relationship with a sociopath by establishing distance, giving yourself time and seeking therapy.
1. **Acknowledge what you have lived through.** One of the first steps to recovering from a relationship with a sociopath is to fully acknowledge what you have been through. It’s important to try and reflect on your experience to help you understand what happened and how you can move on from it. A relationship with somebody who demonstrates symptoms of antisocial personality disorder can be incredibly difficult, as this person will typically feel little or no guilt about their actions or how they have hurt you.
A sociopath will also feel no empathy towards you, and will blame you for your situation. He may even appear to take satisfaction in your pain and distress.
It’s important to try and recognise these practices and diagnose the behaviour.
Doing this will help you understand that you were not at fault or responsible for his behaviour.
2. **Validate your emotions.** Once you have begun to acknowledge the situation you have been in, you can acknowledge the emotions that you may have been suppressing or your former partner may have undermined or invalidated. If you are frustrated, feel regret, and maybe a bit foolish about having been taken advantage of, accept these emotions and recognise that they are an entirely reasonable response.
Acknowledging emotions will help you to come to terms with what has happened, and learn to trust your emotional responses.
A sociopath who lacks guilt or empathy can undermine your own emotional awareness and destabilize your sense of self.
Understanding that emotional reactions are normal, and your formers partner’s aren’t can help you to recover from the relationship.
3. **Get some distance.** Getting some real distance between you and your ex is essential. It allows you to recover from the relationship by helping you to extricate yourself and have time to reflect and rebuild. A sociopath may be less likely to make the effort to follow somebody if they move away, so consider getting out of town for a while and staying with a friend or relative.
Going to another place can have a transformative effect, and allow you to see things anew.
You might find it helpful to delete all contact information and disconnect yourself from social media.
4. **Have secure boundaries.** A crucial part of recovering from your relationship is having clear and firm boundaries that separate you from your former partner. Your ex may not respect the boundaries that you establish, so create boundaries for yourself that you will not cross. Having a clear understanding of where you won’t go and what you won’t do is essential to maintaining the distance necessary to recover.
You could write down things that you will not do, such as answer his calls or contact him in any way.
In part, setting boundaries is about helping you unlearn the dysfunctional patterns of your previous relationship.
You might find it useful to imagine a physical boundary between yourself and your ex. Build a wall in your head and see all of his hurtful comments and actions rebound off it.
5. **Don’t be a victim.** Affirm to yourself that you will not be a victim anymore. The relationship has ended and you are moving on. Embrace that, and repeat it to yourself again and again. Repeating positive statements and affirmations helps you to expose negative reactions or beliefs that may have become normal or dominant, and replace them with positive ones.
Spend some time thinking about yourself and who you are. Think about what you want to do, where you want to go, and what you want to achieve.
Your former partner will not have shown any empathy towards you during your relationship, so now show yourself empathy.
Understand the difficulties you have been through, but assign them to the past and create a positive image of your future.
6. **Seek support from friends and family.** Your relationship will have lacked empathy and understanding, so it’s important that you spend time with people who will show you empathy. This will help you to validate your feelings and come to terms with what you have been through. Friends or family may be the best people to talk to. Be sure you are comfortable talking about your relationship, and completely trust who you are talking to.
Try to talk to friends who are not experiencing any relationship problems of their own.
Spend time with friends or family that are positive and will help you think about the future as well as reflecting on the past.
Consider seeing a counsellor to get some expert help that will be completely independent of your relationships.
7. **Recognise indicators of antisocial personality disorders.** You can learn from the experience and take these lessons on with you through your life. When you reflect on your experiences in the relationship, try to identify and diagnose behaviour that is indicative of an antisocial personality disorder. Sociopaths are generally unashamed of what they do and how they make you feel, and will sometimes happily admit to hurting people emotionally, physically or financially. They often blame the victim of this abuse, saying that he was just naive. If you can recognise these factors it will help you to spot them in the future. Some of the key signs of a sociopath are:
The person behaves in hurtful ways and expects you to act as if nothing happened.
He manipulates people, directly or indirectly.
He treats you very differently at different times for no reason.
He is comfortable lying to get off the hook.
He externalizes blame, not taking responsibility for his actions and their consequences.
He sometimes seems to enjoy manipulating and hurting people.
8. **Know that it is not about you.** You will at some point ask yourself what you could have done differently and whether what happened is your fault. The more you learn about antisocial personality disorders the more you will understand that sociopaths are likely to feel no remorse about what they do, and may even take pleasure in manipulating you and hurting you.
Sociopaths can be very skillful manipulators. The way he acts is down to him, not to you.
He may have been very charismatic and effective at faking emotions, such as guilt.
While it may be hard for you to tell what he was doing, sociopaths are generally fully aware of the pain they are causing.
This awareness separates sociopaths from people with other personality disorders.
9. **Seek therapy.** Consider getting professional help in overcoming your relationship with a sociopath. Find a therapist who understands sociopathic behaviour. You will want to talk to a counsellor who understands the psychiatric disorder and can help you move on. Before you schedule an appointment, ask the therapist if he or she has a background in, or experience with, people who have been involved with sociopaths.
Look for groups or support among other victims. The best people to understand what you are going through are those who have gone through it as well.
Ask your therapist to refer you to a support group, or check online for forums dedicated to victims.
10. **Go slow in new relationships.** If you have been in an abusive relationship with a sociopath, it’s important to give yourself time to heal and truly come to terms with it. Be cautious of jumping into any new relationships too soon, and be aware of any warning signs. Think about how you got involved with your former partner and be aware of any similarities with a newly developing relationship. Some warning signs to keep an eye out for include:
Does he recognise how his actions impact on others, and take responsibility for this?
Does he blame others for their situation?
Can he make a genuine and sincere apology?
Can he admit to making a mistake? | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Recover-from-a-Relationship-With-a-Sociopath", "language": "en"} |
How to Hide Man Boobs | The dreaded “man boobs” can occur in men for a number of reasons. No matter the cause, the effect is often embarrassing. Fortunately, it’s possible to keep your gentlemanly curves more or less out of sight by making a few simple adjustments to your wardrobe. Start by pulling on a compression shirt or buying your favorite undershirts a size small. Make sure your outer layer is relaxed but not too loose, and go with thick, sturdy woven or textured fabrics in dark colors whenever possible. It’s also a good idea to stay away from low necklines, overly large patterns, and accessories like necklaces that might draw unwanted attention to your chest area.
1. **Invest in a compression shirt.** Many men’s clothing companies sell athletic compression shirts made from materials like spandex and neoprene that offer a snug, stretchy fit. These undergarments are designed to provide added stability for the tissue around the torso. For this reason, they make a great base for any outfit that you don't want your midsection mounds to butt in on.
Compression shirts come in tank, tee, and long-sleeved styles, which makes them more versatile for pairing with various looks.
“Manssieres” are another type of undergarment that are similar to compression shirts. These only cover the chest, however, hence the play on the word “brassiere.”
2. **Size down your undershirts.** If you’re not willing or able to shell out the money for a specialty compression top, another option is to buy your first layer one size smaller than you ordinarily would. The resulting fit will keep everything neatly contained without pinching or leaving you gasping for air.
Look for undershirts made from blended fabrics, such as cotton and elastane. These won’t stretch out the way 100% cotton garments will.
If you have a hard time wearing conventional sizes, consider having your t-shirts or tank tops tailored so that they’re tighter under the arms and looser towards the waistline.
3. **Select shirts with an in-between fit for optimum concealment.** Too-tight tops will show off what you most want to keep under wraps, while overly loose ones often look frumpy and unfashionable, and may suggest that you’ve got something to hide. Your best bet is to pick out shirts that follow your body’s natural contours without squeezing them.
For best results, remember to combine your main upper body clothing items with a restrictive undershirt.
Steering clear of ill-fitting clothing is one of the most critical yet frequently overlooked style considerations when it comes to suppressing the secret of your man boobs—it’s not all about what you wear, but also how it wears you.
4. **Throw on an extra layer if the weather allows.** Coverage is your friend. Pulling a sweater, flannel, button-up, or light jacket over your shirt is one of the quickest and easiest ways to battle man boobs in the cooler months. The rationale here is pretty self-explanatory: the more you have on, the less visible your lumpy bits will be.
Another benefit of layers is that they allow you to add some stylish complexity to your outfit and personalize your look even more.
Make sure you choose outerwear that’s both subtly obscuring and seasonally-appropriate. There’s no sense in making yourself suffer just to keep one part of your body under wraps.
5. **Stick to dark colors.** Dark-colored clothing is well known for having a slimming effect. But as an additional bonus, they help cut down on the contrast between your shirt color and the surrounding light, eliminating those tell-tale lines and shadows that threaten to give away the shape of your chest.
Black, charcoal gray, and navy blue are faithful standbys not only for men with more mammary meat but for most social occasions, as well.
Don’t feel like you’re locked into darker shades only. A light gray or pastel shirt will still do a better job of minimizing the appearance of man boobs than a plain white one will.
6. **Wear thick, textured fabrics whenever possible.** Canvas, denim, wool, corduroy, leather, and anything else that’s crease- and wrinkle-resistant will generally be a safe choice. Since heavier materials don’t drape limply the way thin, lightweight ones, they’ll do you the favor of “smoothing out” your torso.
Like dark colors, fabrics with lots of surface texture also help prevent light-related reveals.
7. **Opt for woven garments over knit ones.** Soft knitted garments have a tendency to cling in all the wrong places, which is the last thing you want when you’re trying to keep your moobs incognito. Sturdy woven fabrics, on the other hand, lie flat and hang further away from the body. They typically also lend a sleeker, more put-together appearance, making them a win-win.
When dressing yourself for work or a formal engagement, keep in mind that twill, Oxford, and flannelette shirts are more flattering for a full-chested figure than poplin or sheer fabrics.
The stiffer your shirt is, the more of a shield it will provide. It may not be as conducive to comfort, but it’s effective nonetheless.
8. **Pick out small or complex patterns that camouflage your contours.** Patterned shirts can be something of a double-edged sword—the right ones deftly distract from what’s beneath while the wrong ones highlight it. As a rule, you want to favor patterns that are smaller and closer together, as these run more visual interference.
Narrow vertical stripes and miniature all-over-print designs are especially useful for creating a lean, streamlined profile.
9. **Deck yourself out with accent pieces that lure eyes elsewhere.** Use bold, colorful, and extravagant accessories as a kind of fashion diversion. A flashy wristwatch or pair of two-toned shoes can provide an alternative focal point and keep your midline hidden in plain sight.
Some other items you might put to your advantage include vintage-inspired hats, stylish eyewear, and functional props like bags and briefcases.
Try not to make yourself look too ridiculous. The idea behind strategic accessorizing is to trick the people around you into focusing on other things. Dressing like a rodeo clown may accomplish this, but not in the way you want.
10. **Avoid attracting unnecessary attention to your chest area.** Make sure there’s nothing going on in the pec-portion of your outfit that might make someone stop and take notice. Low necklines, accessories like necklaces and chains, and even poorly-positioned breast pockets and logos could all inadvertently draw an onlooker’s gaze.
If you prefer to leave your dress shirts undone around the neck, be careful not to button them too low, or set out a crew neck undershirt to wear with them. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Hide-Man-Boobs", "language": "en"} |
How to Create Papier Mâché | Looking to make your own paper mâché craft? Papier-mâché (pap-yay mash-ay) or paper mâché (paper mash-ay) is an easy to make, hard material that can be used to cover various surfaces. You can use it in arts and crafts to make various sculptures, fruit bowls, puppets, dolls, and much more. The surface is easy to paint, allowing you to add patterns, bright colors, and interesting designs to your finished product. We've put together a tutorial on how to make paper mâché that can be used for any project that you have in mind.
1. **Clear an area and gather the materials you'll need to do papier-mâché.** Papier-mâché can get a bit messy (like any DIY worth your time), so to protect your grandma's beloved dining table, lay down a few newspapers or other scrap material to keep clean up at a minimum. While you are grabbing newspaper, also get a hold of:
A bowl or large container
Flour, wallpaper powder/paste, or white glue
Water
Your base structure
Paintbrush
Newspaper (for your project -- not for clean-up duty)
2. **Tear the newspaper into long strips.** The ideal width would be around one inch (2.5 cm) thick, but each project requires different shapes and sizes. In addition, you will want to go around your project three times, so tear quite a pile. Don't opt for the scissors -- a torn edge blends better than a cut edge.
There is no wrong size your strips could be. In fact, if you want to add volume to your structure by molding the strips, you will need different sizes. So tear away freely.
3. **Choose your method to make papier mâché.** A few slight variations will result in the same product. Use what you have at your disposal.
Glue mixture: Pour 2 parts white glue and one part water into a mixing bowl. These quantities can be changed to suit the size of your project. Or, if you have a stronger bonding glue, 1 part white glue and 1 part water will do the trick.
Flour mixture: Combine 1 part flour with 1 part water. Easy as pie! (But also liable to mold. Use caution!) For super large and intense projects, you may want to substitute white glue for the water.
Wallpaper powder: Pour 2 parts wallpaper powder and one part water into a mixing bowl. This method is good if you're thinking seriously long-term -- it can last years.
4. **Blend your choice of mixture.** Do this using a paintbrush, a mixing spoon or mixing stick. Blend until it forms a smooth consistency.
If it's too thin or thick, adjust accordingly. Add more adhesive base if it's too thin, water if it's too thick.
5. **Find a surface you want to papier-mâché.** Examples include a balloon, cardboard or a molded figure. In addition, you can papier-mâché two objects together to form a creation! The mixture will take to anything.
If you're using a balloon, consider painting it with cooking oil beforehand -- that way, when it's dry, you can slide it out easily.
6. **Dip a strip of newspaper into the mixture.** You're going to get your fingers messy! The messier you get, the better job you're doing.
7. **Remove any excess mixture.** Do this by lightly sliding two fingers from the top to the bottom of the strip of paper. Hold it over the bowl so it drips back into the container.
8. **Lay the strip over the surface or figure.** Smooth it out, using either your fingers or a paintbrush. Be sure to get as many of the creases and bumps out as you can. You are aiming to get a very smooth surface for painting and decorating.
If you'd like to create a shape (a face, say), bunch the strip into the form you want, place it on your surface, and then layer another strip on top to smooth it out. This can create volume, texture, and detail quite easily.
9. **Repeat laying strips.** Do this until the entire surface or figure is covered three times over. This is especially important if you're removing the base when it's dry -- it needs to be sturdy and hold its own.
Put your first layer on horizontally, the second vertically, and so forth. It will help show you where you have been before and strengthen the piece.
10. **Place the object on a covered surface to dry.** It will need a day or so to completely dry, depending on the size of your piece. Leave it untouched until tomorrow, then see if it's ready for painting.
11. **Start coloring.** Paint or decorate as desired. Enjoy! (And be sure to tell everyone you did it yourself.)
Some schools of thought say to start with a white primer. If you're using a light color on the piece, you may want to use this method (otherwise some print may stick out). Make sure not to cover to top part in order to take the balloon out. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Create-Papier-M%C3%A2ch%C3%A9", "language": "en"} |
How to Recognize Feline Heart Disease | Cats suffer from heart disease just like any other species. However, cats are adept at hiding the early warning signs. Their laid-back lifestyles and talent for sleeping tend to mask symptoms that would be evident in more active animals. Additionally, the symptoms of heart disease are very similar to lung disease. It's important to be vigilant in identifying any health issues in your cat and to bring your cat to the veterinarian as early as possible.
1. **Notice if your cat seems lethargic.** When their heart is struggling, it tends to make the cat lethargic. This is because even a slight increase in activity, such as walking or going up stairs, places increased demands on the circulatory system.
Heart failure in cats can be caused by value issues, heart muscle problems, electrical conduction problems, hyperthyroidism, and congenital problems.
If the circulation is inadequate, then the cat feels light-headed, dizzy, and weak. This causes the cat to learn it's best not to move around much, so it tends to rest instead.
2. **Feel for an abnormally high respiratory rate.** Another early warning sign of heart disease is if the cat breathes more quickly, even at rest. This is known as an increased respiratory rate. The cat breathes more quickly because of fluid accumulation in the lungs, which makes it hard for your cat to absorb oxygen. In order to get enough oxygen, the cat has to take more breaths.
If you are suspicious about your cat breathing quickly, watch it while it's resting and count the number of breaths taken in one minute. Repeat this several times to be certain that you are getting a true figure. You will need to take this information to your vet, since it's normal for cats to hyperventilate at the vet's office, making it hard to take an accurate reading.
The normal respiratory rate in the cat is between 20-30 breaths a minute. More than 35-40 breaths a minute at rest is considered high, and over 40 requires a vet's attention.
3. **Look for panting.** Another sign of trouble is mouth breathing or panting. It is unusual for a cat to breathe through its mouth unless it is very stressed or has been playing vigorously.
Mouth-breathing is your cat's attempt to get more oxygen because not enough is getting absorbed.
4. **Watch out for the "air hunger" position.** If the cat is short of air, it may adopt the "air hunger" position. The cat crouches on its belly with its head and neck extended in a straight line. The elbows are held away from the chest in order to expand the chest as much as possible with each breath.
5. **Know that a poor appetite is a cause for concern.** Many cats with heart disease have poor appetites. When the cat swallows, it has to stop breathing. If the cat is having trouble breathing, then it won't stop breathing long enough to eat.
6. **Take note of any fainting.** Sadly, as feline heart disease progresses the signs and symptoms become more severe. One late-stage symptom of heart disease is fainting. The cat may have fainting episodes when the circulation cannot maintain blood supply to the brain.
7. **Look or feel for fluid in the belly.** Another sign of advanced heart failure is fluid building up in the belly as a result of fluid changes in the cat's blood vessels, which can allow fluids to leak into the body.
The belly may swell and fill like a water balloon.
8. **Know that hind-leg paralysis is a possibility.** Another very serious sign of heart failure is hind limb paralysis. In the advanced stages of heart failure, blood clots develop. A common place for blood clots in cats is the point where the main artery to the back legs divides in two. The clot blocks the circulation to the back legs, leaving them paralyzed.
9. **Bring your cat to the vet for a physical exam.** If you notice any of the above-mentioned symptoms, then get your cat checked out by a veterinarian. As part of the examination, the vet will listen to the cat's heart with a stethoscope. Based on what they find, the vet will suggest the most appropriate tests.
10. **Expect the vet to assess your cat's breathing.** To get an overview of how sick the cat is, the veterinarian may ask to watch the cat as it rests in a basket or box before the exam, which allows the vet to observe the cat's breathing before the stress of an exam.
The vet will count the respiratory rate and assess how the cat is breathing.
11. **Check for abnormal breathing.** With a healthy cat, it is sometimes difficult to see the chest moving in and out. If the cat is having difficulty breathing, either because of heart or lung issues, the chest moves in an exaggerated in-out movement which is clear to see.
Another hint that points toward abnormal breathing is if the cat's tummy is going in and out with each breath. This is known as "abdominal breathing" and is a sign that the cat is struggling to draw air into the lungs.
It's important to note that cats rarely cough as a result of heart disease, unlike dogs.
12. **Inform the vet about any history of heart murmur.** Your vet will want to know if the cat has previously been diagnosed with a heart murmur. If your cat had a heart murmur, it is considered a pre-exisiting condition that could cause heart disease.
Your cat may have developed a heart murmur later in life, so a clean medical history does not mean that your cat can't have an issue now.
13. **Allow the vet to listen for heart murmurs.** The veterinarian will listen to the cat's heart in order to assess whether a murmur is present or not and how loud the murmur is. The vet will also check the heart rhythm and rate.
Heart murmurs are common in cats with heart disease. However, a heart murmur does not mean that your cat definitely has heart disease.
14. **Ask the vet about the cat's heart rate.** The heart rate is an important guide as to whether the heart is struggling or not. A cat's normal heart rate is approximately 120-140 beats per minute.
A stressed cat will have a faster heart rate, meaning that the vet's measurement could be high. While a cat is at the vet, most vets consider up to around 180 beats per minute to be normal. Out of the vet's office, 180 beats is very concerning.
A cat's heart may be beating fast to maintain circulation if its heart is failing.
15. **Ask the vet about the cat's heart rhythm.** An abnormal heart rhythm is a warning signal that the heart is struggling. A healthy heart rhythm falls into one of two patterns.
First, the beat is regular with exactly the same time interval between beats. Second, the cat's heartbeat is synchronized with its breathing.
An abnormal heart rhythm is erratic.
16. **Make sure the vet checks the cat's mucous membrane color.** A cat's gums should be a healthy pink color, just like our own. The veterinarian checks the gum color for indications of circulatory problems.
If the heart is failing and the circulation poor, the gums tend to be pale or even white. However, this sign is not exclusive to heart disease and gums can be pale because of anemia or pain.
17. **Observe as the vet checks the cat's jugular vein distension.** The vet may do something that looks pretty odd, which is to wet the fur on the cat's neck with surgical spirit or rubbing alcohol. She does this in order to see the outline of the jugular veins which contain blood returning to the heart.
These veins run up the neck, and if the heart is struggling, blood tends to accumulate downstream of the heart and cause the jugular veins to distend.
18. **Expect additional tests to make a diagnosis.** It is likely that additional tests will be needed to confirm a strong suspicion of heart disease, to work out the cause, and to gauge the severity of the illness.
The tools most commonly used in the diagnosis of feline heart murmur are a specialized blood test (proBNP), chest radiographs, and cardiac ultrasound.
Aside from an X-ray, only an animal cardiologist will perform these tests.
19. **Allow the vet to perform a Pro BNP blood test.** This blood test measures the levels of "cardiac bio markers" in the blood. Cardiac biomarkers are proteins that are released from distressed heart muscle cells.
The results are allocated to one of three groups: low indicates heart disease is not causing the cat's clinical signs, normal range means heart disease is less likely at that time, and high means the cat has significant heart muscle damage.
Your vet may use Pro BNP blood testing to eliminate heart issues as a cause of symptoms or to monitor your cat's condition once treatment has begun.
Your vet may also do a blood test to check for kidney disease, liver disease, or hyperthyroidism. If your vet suspects one of these conditions, they may also do a blood pressure test.
20. **Let the vet take radiographs of the cat's chest.** The veterinarian takes two views of the cat's chest: one from above and one from the side. This gives a cross reference as to the size and shape of the heart.
Radiographs can be of limited value because one of the common feline heart conditions, hypertrophic cardiomyopathy (HCM), involves the heart muscle thickening inwardly. Because x-rays only show the heart silhouette, rather than what's going on inside, HCM can be missed with radiography alone.
However, radiographs are useful to look for fluid in the lungs, such as pulmonary edema, which can indicate a failing heart, and also to rule out other conditions such as feline asthma or lung tumors.
21. **Give the vet permission to do heart ultrasound scans.** This is the gold standard for identifying and diagnosing heart disease in the cat. A cardiac scan allows the operator to visualize the chamber of the heart, to watch the heart contract, to follow blood flow through the heart, and to check the health of the heart valves.
Ultrasounds also detect problems such as fluid in the sac around the heart, which can go undetected on X-rays.
Ultrasounds also allow the vet to measure the dimensions of the different heart chambers so that they can decide if the heart is functioning appropriately. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Recognize-Feline-Heart-Disease", "language": "en"} |
How to Get a Fishing Job in Alaska | Thanks to TV shows like Deadliest Catch and Alaska Fish Wars, interest in the Alaskan fishing industry has never been higher. But where does a prospective Alaskan greenhorn begin if they want to either work for a summer on a boat or start a full-fledged career? It turns out that they can start right here. Prepare yourself for challenges and start your job search so that you can get your feet wet in the Alaskan fishing industry.
1. **Establish your objectives and set your schedule accordingly.** Are you trying to start a full-fledged career, or are you more interested in getting a short-term entry level job and seeing how things go? While there are thousands of crew positions available in Alaska during the summer and demand for hard-working people is high, you don't have a chance of getting hired if you can't set aside significant time in your schedule.
Typically you will need a minimum of two months clear to land an entry level job in Alaska. Most entry-level jobs for those with little or no experience are on salmon boats called trollers, gill netters, and purse seiners.
The salmon season begins in May and extends into the fall. The longer your availability is within this window, the more likely it is that you will find a job.
2. **Build muscle and endurance.** All jobs in the Alaskan fishing industry, and especially entry level jobs, are strenuous and grueling. You will be placing yourself in a highly stressful and demanding environment. A fishing boat is not a place where you can work yourself into shape. You'll need to be fit in advance.
When getting in shape for a fishing job, it is best to focus on building up functional strength. Being able to run ten miles or bench press 250 pounds won't do you as much good working 18 hour days on a fishing boat as core stability and overall functionality.
3. **Develop mental and emotional strength.** Understand that your body won't be the only thing that will be tired at the end of an 18-hour day. Your mind will be worn out and your emotions frayed. As is frequently illustrated on TV shows that deal with the Alaskan fishing industry, the captain and rest of the crew can be particularly hard on green hands. Learn to deal with stress accordingly.
Different people prepare themselves in different ways mentally and emotionally. Find a way that works for you.
Focus on developing both a learning attitude and a thick skin when it comes to criticism.
4. **Assess your financial situation.** As the old saying goes, sometimes it takes money to make money. As you'll discover on your job search, it can be very difficult to land a guaranteed job in advance prior to going to Alaska. Many job seekers have to move to a fishing hub first, and look for a job in person. You'll need to have the financial wherewithal to secure yourself housing and cover basic expenses if you opt for this route.
Even if you don't move to Alaska without a job, planning to get a job in Alaska could compromise your ability to take a local job, possibly leaving you stuck at home without a summer job at all. Don't put all your eggs into one basket unless you can afford to have them broken.
5. **Find potential employers.** This process is probably going to be different than most job searches you have done in the past. As many boats are independent businesses, much of the hiring in the Alaskan commercial fishing industry is done by boat captains rather than an HR and recruiting department. There are very few resources for greenhorns looking for deckhand jobs - much of the hiring is done in-person and by word of mouth.
There are some jobs you might be able to see on Alaska Job Finder that have been made available online.
Alaskan Leader Fisheries also has occasional job listings and an application process for potential job seekers.
Another website that has good resources and guidance for job seekers is Alaska Fishing Jobs Network.
6. **Contact the employers that you have found.** This is easier said than done. Many potential employers might not even have email, relying instead on older technology like telephones and fax machines.
If you lack a fax machine, you can send a fax online.
Be aware of time zone differences when calling potential employers. Most of Alaska is in UTC -0:900, which is one hour behind Pacific Time and 4 hours behind Eastern Time. The Western Aleutian islands portion of Alaska is an hour further behind.
7. **Ask employers you contact for additional leads and references.** Many employers that you contact will either be fully staffed or not interested in hiring a green hand. However, much of the hiring in the Alaskan fishing industry is done by word of mouth and referral, and many positions won't be listed anywhere. A captain with a fully crewed boat may know of another captain in desperate need of a deckhand. If you establish good rapport with someone that doesn't have a spot for you, ask if they know of and can refer you to someone that may need your help.
8. **Consider going to Alaska and looking for a job in person.** Dutch Harbor, Kodiak, and Naknek are fantastic places for a greenhorn to get started, though there are plenty of others as well. As many positions are not listed online many people are better off going an Alaskan fishing industry hub and looking for a job in person. This may be the only way to have a chance to meet a boat captain and ask them for a job. If you are unsuccessful getting a job as a deckhand, it is considerably easier to get a job in a seafood processing plant. Processing plants usually pay decent wages and are the first step in the door for many people in the fishing industry. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Get-a-Fishing-Job-in-Alaska", "language": "en"} |
How to Make Sashimi | Sashimi is made from fresh fish that you slice into delicate, bite-sized pieces. People often plate sashimi with a variety of fresh vegetables and other complements to accent the colors and flavors of the fish. If you want to create your own gourmet sashimi at home, visit your local fresh fish market to get started!
1. **Purchase 4 oz (110 g) each of sushi grade salmon, tuna, and yellowtail.** The fish you use to make sashimi needs to be incredibly fresh. Go to a fish market and purchase sushi grade salmon, tuna, or yellowtail. Do not buy fish that is not considered safe to eat raw!
If there is no fish market in your area, try visiting an Asian market that has a seafood counter or ask the employees at your grocery store’s fish counter if they have any sushi grade fish available. Keep in mind that this usually just means the fish was previously frozen to kill any parasites.
Tell the fish monger or fish counter employee that you are making sashimi and ask them to cut it into a sashimi block so that you only have to purchase what you need to make sashimi.
2. **Choose fresh vegetables to pair with sashimi.** Sashimi is often served with a selection of fresh raw vegetables to complement the flavors of the fresh fish. Pick up a few fresh, whole veggies at the market when you purchase the fish. Some good options include:
Daikon radish
Cucumber
Carrots
Avocado
Shiso leaves
3. **Select condiments to flavor the sashimi.** You can enjoy your sashimi plain, or you can add condiments to flavor the fish. Some good options include:
Lemon slices
Pickled ginger
Wasabi
Soy sauce
4. **Cook 8 oz (230 g) of sushi rice** Rice is optional for sashimi, but it is a nice complement. Cook the rice according to the package’s instructions. Then, let the rice cool completely before using it. Mold the rice into 1 in (2.5 cm) sized balls.
You may season the rice with 1 teaspoon (5 mL) of rice vinegar, ½ teaspoon (3 g) of salt, and ¾ of a tablespoon (12 g) of sugar if desired, or leave it plain.
5. **Get a very sharp knife.** Your knife needs to be razor sharp to cut sashimi properly. Choose the sharpest knife you have or sharpen a knife before you cut the sashimi if needed.
Avoid using a serrated knife since this will rip and tear at the fish. The goal is to cut the fish in a single motion and to keep the edges as smooth as possible.
6. **Coat the block of tuna with sesame oil and cilantro and sear it.** This is optional, but it is a nice way to add flavor to the fish. Coat the outside of the block of tuna with sesame oil and then press it into fresh chopped cilantro leaves. Heat a non-stick frying pan over high heat and place the tuna onto the pan. Let the block cook on the first side for 15 seconds, and then rotate the block 45 degrees to turn it onto the next side.
Continue to rotate the block and cook for 15 seconds on each side until all 4 sides of the block have been cooked. Then, remove the block of fish from the pan and place it back onto your cutting board.
If desired, you may do this for the salmon and yellowtail as well, or you may only sear the tuna.
7. **Cut the fish into 0.25 to 0.5 in (0.64 to 1.27 cm) slices.** Place each of your raw or seared blocks of fish onto a clean cutting board. Then, begin cutting a block into slices. Cut straight across the fish with 1 motion. Repeat to the end of the fish block.
When you cut the salmon, hold the knife at a 45 degree angle to the cutting board. Then, cut the fish down towards the board at the angle to create slices that are slightly angled. Make sure to cut with the grain so that each slice will have several lines running across it.
Do not saw back and forth across the fish! This will rip the fish and it may ruin the shape of your slices. If the knife is not sharp enough to cut the first slice with 1 motion, sharpen it or get a new knife.
8. **Arrange the slices so they are in an overlapping row.** Once you have finished cutting the fish into slices, place it into a slightly fanned out stack. The slices should appear to be overlapping each other like a hand of poker cards or dominoes that have fallen over.
Do this for each type of fish.
9. **Shred daikon radish, carrots, and cucumber.** Use a cheese grater to shred your fresh vegetables. Place the shredded veggies into a bowl or plastic bag and store them in the refrigerator until you are ready for them. Put 1 pile of each kind of shredded veggie you are using on the plate.
If you are only using 1 type of veggie, then place it in the center of the plate.
If you are using 2 or more kinds of shredded veggies, arrange them in a row in the center of the plate.
10. **Slice lemon, avocado, and cucumber 0.25 in (0.64 cm) thin.** Cut the lemon, avocado, and cucumber into very thin slices. Then, arrange these so that they are slightly fanned out and position them in front of the shredded veggies.
Try to arrange the items so that they contrast with the colors of the other items. For example, place the lemon next to the daikon, the avocado next to the shredded cucumber, and the sliced cucumber next to the shredded carrots.
11. **Lay the fanned out sashimi slices on top of the shredded veggies.** Once you have finished arranging the veggies and other additions in a pleasing manner, add the sashimi slices to the plate. Place the sashimi slices so that they are halfway between the beds of shredded veggies and the sliced sashimi complements.
Consider the color of the fish when choosing where to place it. For example, you might place the red tuna on top of the white daikon radish, the orange salmon on top of the shredded cucumber, and the white yellowtail on top of the shredded carrots.
If you are serving your sashimi slices on rice balls, place individual slices of sashimi onto each of the rice balls or keep the rice separate and combine the rice and fish as you eat 1 piece at a time.
12. **Add some ginger, shiso leaves, and a ball of wasabi if desired.** These are traditional condiment items that you can add to the plate. Place these along the edges of your sliced sashimi complements so they will be easy to access.
For example, place the ball of wasabi next to the lemon slices, the pickled ginger next to the avocado, and the shiso leaves next to the cucumber slices.
13. **Pour 2 fl oz (59 mL) of soy sauce into a small bowl.** Soy sauce is also a traditional condiment for sashimi. Place it into a bowl and position the bowl on the edge of the sashimi plate for easy dipping.
After you have your soy sauce on the plate, the sashimi is ready to eat! Serve it immediately! | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Sashimi", "language": "en"} |
How to Get Fit for Soccer | Soccer is an intense and demanding sport. To be a good soccer player, you need to be in top physical condition. While practicing with a team and engaging in competitive play can raise your level of fitness, it’s also important to do some extra conditioning on the side. By building up your stamina, improving your agility and fine-tuning your footwork, you’ll be able to perform better during games and even stay fit during the off season.
1. **Run to improve your cardiovascular conditioning.** Go at a moderate pace until you start to get tired, then take a short rest break before resuming your run. You can also structure your run in intervals, running for 3-4 minutes, walking or resting for 2-3 minutes, then running for another 3-4 minutes and so on. By running frequently and increasing your distance over time, you’ll develop the endurance you need to keep you in the game.
Running laps on a track can help you keep up with your time and distance. Schools, churches and recreation centers sometimes open their tracks for community use.
2. **Sprint to build speed.** Sprints are essential for being a successful soccer player, as they require high levels of power and control. Measure out a set distance (it’s best to start with a distance between 30-50 meters) and get into a starting position. When you’re ready, explode forward and run to the endpoint as fast as you can.
Since sprints are extremely tiring, they should be scheduled at the beginning of the workout right after your warmup.
As your fitness improves, you can work up to greater distances like the 100 or 200 meter sprint. Longer sprints bridge the gap between intensity and endurance.
3. **Do strength training 3-4 days a week.** While speed and agility are key attributes in soccer, it’s also important to be strong. Be sure to incorporate regular muscular exercise into your routine. You can employ calisthenics like pushups, pull ups, air squats and lunges, or lift weights if you have access to a gym. Try to do some form of resistance exercise every other day.
Bodyweight exercises can be performed almost anywhere, which means you won’t need to rely on any specialized equipment.
When lifting weights, keep the intensity high and number of repetitions low to build strength.
4. **Emphasize your core muscles.** You use the muscles of your core to run, stop, change direction, and shoot, so pay special attention to them. Sit-ups, crunches, leg lifts, V-ups and bicycles are all excellent exercises for strengthening the core. Try to do half an hour of core training at least twice a week. This can come near the end of practice or serve as its own separate workout.<
Squeeze your stomach tightly throughout the movement to get the most out of each exercise.
Work on your core and your returns at the same time by heading a ball tossed by a friend at the top of each sit up.
5. **Run suicides.** Suicides combine explosive power with the dexterity. Set down markers at regular distances going down the field or track. Sprint from your starting point to the first marker, then immediately turn around and return to the start. From there, sprint to the second marker, then back to the start, then to the third marker and so on.
When you're first getting the hang of suicides, run through one full circuit, then pause to catch your breath. Work up to the point where you can complete multiple circuits without stopping.
A few rounds of suicides are enough to wear out even the most experienced players, so try not to overdo it.
6. **Do high knees.** Stand with one foot on the ground and bring your other knee up to waist level. In one smooth motion, lower your raised foot to the ground and quickly lift the opposite knee. High knees teach you to pick your feet up higher when you run, making your steps more springy and preventing you from getting tripped up. They're also a good dynamic core exercise.
You can perform high knees for time, a set distance or simply as a warmup.
7. **Train with the agility ladder.** Stretch out the agility ladder on a flat patch of ground, then run from one end to the other using different footwork patterns. Make sure you only set your feet down in the open spaces between the rungs. The agility ladder calls for precise foot placement and increased concentration, which will both come in handy during a scrimmage.
For example, you could span the ladder by shuffling sideways, skip every other rung or use alternating steps and leaps like in hopscotch.
Run rounds on the agility ladder in between other drills and exercises.
8. **Practice penalty kicks.** At the end of your workout, cool down by taking a few free shots at the goal or another target. Shoot from different angles and positions to simulate the conditions of an actual game. Kicking is one of the most fundamental skills in soccer, so there’s no substitute for old fashioned repetition.
Aiming at a small target, like a goal post or a square tacked to the net, can help you refine your accuracy.
Complete a minimum of 30 kicks with each leg. Learning to shoot with both legs will make you more versatile.
9. **Bring the proper equipment.** Before you start practicing, you should double-check to make sure you have everything you need. Wear comfortable, loose-fitting clothing for ease of movement and bring plenty of water. You might also want to use additional training equipment, like shin guards, a towel or a stopwatch.
Make sure you’re staying hydrated throughout your workout, especially when it’s hot outside.
Practice in a pair of soccer cleats to get used to the feel of maneuvering in them during games.
10. **Warm up thoroughly.** Start by running in place to get your body loosened up. Follow this with a few minutes of light jogging and some sit-ups, air squats or dynamic stretches. This will activate your muscles. Warm up for at least 10 minutes, or longer on early mornings and cold days.
Your warmup should be vigorous enough to get your blood pumping and your muscles warm and relaxed.
A proper warmup will also help reduce soreness from previous workouts.
11. **Stretch out your muscles.** Go through a full-body stretching session. Begin with the legs, hips and ankles, but don’t forget to also limber up your back, shoulders, wrists and neck. Stretching improves your mobility and makes sprains and strains less likely. It's very easy to pull something if you haven’t stretched enough.
Hold the stretch in the deepest range of motion you can for several seconds.
The quadriceps and hamstrings are the two biggest muscles in the leg and should receive the most attention while stretching.
Dynamic stretches, or stretching while in motion, mimic the kinds of movements found in soccer. Examples of dynamic stretches are swing kicks, side bends and toe touches.
12. **Practice your ball handling skills.** Move on to some basic technical exercises. Useful handling drills include dribbling, juggling and passing to yourself. These exercises dial in your focus, coordination and reaction time by forcing you to keep your eye on the ball.
Work on ball handling for 10-15 minutes at the beginning and end of each practice session.
Equipment like ropes and cones will allow you to map out your handling drills more effectively. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Get-Fit-for-Soccer", "language": "en"} |
How to Know if Your Toe Is Broken | A toe fracture is a common injury that can be caused by dropping something on your foot, kicking something, or just severely stubbing your toe. You can hurt your toe without actually breaking it, so sometimes it’s tough to determine how serious the injury is. Luckily, there are several ways that you can find out whether or not your toe is broken.
1. **Assess your pain level.** If your toe is fractured, it's going to hurt when you put your weight on it, or when pressed on. You will probably still be able to walk, but moving around might make the pain worse. The presence of pain does not necessarily mean that the toe is broken, but persistent pain can be an indication of a fracture or break.
If putting weight on your toe is excruciatingly painful, you might have a bad break. In this case, you should see a doctor right away. Minor fractures aren't as painful, and may not need medical treatment.
Tingling in addition to pain could indicate a fracture. See a doctor right away.
2. **Examine the size of your toe.** Is it swollen? This is a common indication that you might have a fracture. If you merely stub your toe badly, it will throb for a while and then the pain will go away without swelling occurring. A fractured toe is very likely to swell.
Place the injured toe near the corresponding healthy toe on your other foot. If the injured toe looks much bigger than the healthy toe, you might have a fracture.
3. **Look at the shape of your toe.** When you compare your hurt toe to the corresponding toe on your other foot, does it look misshapen or out of joint? If so, you likely have a severe break and need to see your doctor right away. A minor fracture may not change the shape of a toe.
4. **Check for discoloration.** Fractured toes, unlike stubbed toes, usually end up with bruising and discoloration. Your toe may look red, yellow, blue, or black. In addition, it may bleed. All these are indications that the toe may be broken.
If you can see that the toe bone has broken through the skin, it's definitely broken, and you should see the doctor immediately.
5. **Touch the toe.** If you can feel the bone moving inside, or if any movement in the toe feels odd (in addition to feeling painful!), then it is likely that the toe is broken.
6. **Know when to see a doctor.** If the pain, discoloration, and swelling persist for more than a couple of days, you should go to the doctor. You will likely need an X-Ray to verify the break. In many cases, the doctor will tell you to stay off your toe and just let it heal. However, some severe breaks may require further medical intervention.
If the pain is so severe that you can't walk on the toe, see your doctor right away.
If the toe looks like it's pointing in the wrong direction or is otherwise badly misshapen, see your doctor right away.
Seek emergency services if the toe is cold or tingling, or it turns blue due to lack of oxygen.
7. **Care for your toe until your doctor's appointment.** Fill a plastic food storage bag with ice cubes, wrap it in a dishcloth, and place it on the injured toe. Do this in 20-minute increments until you can get to the doctor. The ice will help reduce swelling and stabilize the toe. Keep your foot elevated as much as possible, and don't attempt to walk far on it.
Don't leave the ice in place for more than 20 minutes, as it may damage your skin if you leave it there too long.
You can take an analgesic like ibuprofen or aspirin to ease the pain.
8. **Follow your doctor's orders.** During your doctor's visit, the doctor will take an x-ray and then give you instructions on how to care for your toe. In some cases, the doctor will realign the bone. In severe cases, surgery may be needed to place pins or screws in the toe to keep the bones in place.
9. **Rest the broken toe.** Don't do the activity that caused the injury in the first place and avoid other activities that place pressure on your toe. Light walking, swimming, or biking may be fine, but avoid running or playing contact sports for several weeks. Continue resting the toe for the amount of time prescribed by your doctor.
When you're at home, keep your foot elevated to help with swelling.
After several weeks of healing, gradually begin using your toe again, but don't overdo it. If you feel pain or stress, take a step back and rest your foot.
10. **Change your bandages if necessary.** Most toe fractures and breaks do not require a cast; instead, the doctor will show you how to "buddy tape" your broken toe to the toe next to it. This keeps it from wandering out of place and getting reinjured. Ask your doctor or a nurse to show you how to properly change the tape and gauze every few days to keep the area clean.
If you lose feeling in the taped toes or they change in color, the tape is probably too tight. Remove it immediately. Ask your doctor for guidance in reapplying the tape.
Diabetics should not tape their toes. Instead, special flat-footed orthopedic shoes should be worn, as prescribed by your doctor.
11. **Care for severe breaks according to your doctor's guidance.** If your break is severe enough to require a cast, brace, or special walking shoes, you'll probably have to rest it completely for 6 to 8 weeks. Breaks that require surgery may have even longer healing periods. You may need to have several doctor's visits in the meantime to make sure it's healing properly.
Be sure to follow the doctor's orders when caring for a severe injury. Ignoring doctor’s orders can cause an injury to take much longer to heal than necessary. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Know-if-Your-Toe-Is-Broken", "language": "en"} |
How to Level Dirt | Leveling is the first step in many lawn-improvement projects, such as building a deck, paving a patio, or putting in a vegetable garden. “Level” isn’t the same thing as “flat,” however, which is why it’s important to ensure that you’re building up the soil in your work area evenly. One tried-and-true way to do this is to drive a series of stakes into the ground around your planned leveling site and run string around them to create a consistent level-grade line. You can then snap on a line level for a useful visual reference that will tell you exactly how much soil you need to add or take away from each area along your line.
1. **Measure and mark the area if you intend to build on it.** Use a tape measure or spool of string to map out the length and width of your planned structure. Drop colored survey flags at the corners of your leveling site to indicate where its outer perimeter lies. You can also mark your site with a little spray paint, or objects you find in the vicinity, such as large stones or sticks.
Plan on making your leveled site slightly bigger than the structure or feature that will be going on it to give yourself a little more margin of error.
It may be okay to skip this step if you’re only leveling your site for aesthetic reasons and aren't going to be using it for any specific purpose
2. **Eliminate all potential obstacles from your leveling site.** Go around and manually remove any vegetation, rocks, large debris, or other materials you find littering the ground. In order to get the area as level as possible, it’s important to start with a patch of ground that’s totally clear.
Be sure to pull on a thick pair of gardening gloves to protect your hands while you work.
Don’t worry about the holes left behind from digging up small trees and other plants. You’ll be filling these in along with the rest of your site.
Consider hiring a tree removal service to deal with large trees that you can’t easily take down and uproot yourself.
3. **Dig up the sod covering your work area.** No matter how you plan on using your site, you’ll need to get the grass out of the way before you can proceed. Use a shovel to manually remove the top 1–3 inches (2.5–7.6 cm) of sod wherever you intend to level. Alternatively, you can slice the turf into 1 ft (0.30 m) x 2 ft (0.61 m) strips using an edger or sharp spade, then loosen each strip with your shovel.
Dampening the grass on your leveling site with a hose may make it easier to pry up in neat, intact sections.
There’s no need to remove your sod by hand if you’re going to be breaking up your soil with a tiller. One of the many advantages of this tool is that the spinning blades automatically turn living plant matter like grass into mulch.
Assuming you’re not in any particular hurry, it’s also possible to kill off the grass in your work area using slower, less labor-intensive methods like smothering or applying herbicides.
4. **Acquire enough soil to build up your site as needed.** For smaller leveling tasks, such as filling in gulches and depressions, you might pick up a few bags of topsoil from your local gardening center, or transplant soil from an unused part of your surrounding property. For larger projects like building a deck or patio, it will help to use a motorized tiller to break up the soil on your work site and make it easier to relocate.
You can rent a motorized tiller at any major home improvement center. This piece of equipment can save you a considerable amount of time and energy breaking up and blending soil, sifting out rocks and debris, and cutting through underground roots.
5. **Drive a stake into each corner or edge of your leveling site.** Use the dimension markings you made earlier for reference. Position your stakes 1–2 feet (0.30–0.61 m) beyond your planned perimeter. This will give you room to dig without disturbing the stakes, which you’ll be using to gauge the level of the ground.
You’ll find landscaping stakes in a variety of materials at any hardware store or gardening center. You can use stakes of any size, so long as they're tall enough to mark your intended level-grade line.
6. **Connect each neighboring pair of stakes with a length of nylon string.** Tie one end of the string to the upper portion of your first stake. Then, unravel the spool as you walk to the next stake, snip the string, pull it taut, and tie it off. Repeat this process for each stake in your planned boundary line.
Be sure to tie each length of string as tight as possible. If one of your strings sags, it may throw off your readings once you attach a level.
Nylon is much stronger than other common string materials like cotton or jute, which makes it less likely to sag or break.
7. **Attach a string line level to the center of your first section of string.** A string line level is a type of spirit level designed to be fitted horizontally onto a marking string. Simply align the slots on either side of the level with the string and snap it into place. Be careful not to tug on the string as you set up your level, or you could accidentally pull your stakes out of alignment.
A good level line will only run you around $2-3, and is a handy tool to have around for a variety of projects.
8. **Adjust each section of string so that it’s perfectly level.** Once you’ve got the level in position, slide the ends of the string up or down until the bubble rests directly in the center of the transparent chamber. Then, remove the level, attach it to the next section, and make any necessary adjustments. When you’re finished, the strings should form a perfectly level plane over the surface of your lawn.
To make more precise micro adjustments when lowering the string, try tapping the stake on the higher side deeper into the ground instead of going to the trouble of moving the string itself.
Establishing a level with your string first will give you a helpful visual reference that you can check while adding or reshaping the dirt at your work site.
9. **Till the area inside your level-grade line or fill it with transplanted soil.** If you’re using a motorized tiller, go over the exposed dirt a few times, churning it up enough to allow you to spread it easily. If you’ve opted to bring in soil from an outside source, you'll need to dump it into your leveling site in multiple wheelbarrow loads or shovelfuls.
If you plan on cultivating the ground you’re leveling, consider mixing your soil with 1 part compost and 2 parts sand to introduce beneficial nutrients and make it less vulnerable to compaction.
To level the ground around smaller holes, depressions, and ditches, disperse your soil equally over each of the spots you want to fill, leaving the surrounding surface uncovered.
10. **Spread the soil until it’s roughly even with your level-grade line.** Use a shovel, landscaping rake, or flat spade to gradually redistribute the soil from higher areas to lower areas until your entire site has a uniform appearance. As you work, keep an eye on your string lines for reference.
Measure noticeably high or low patches along your level-grade line with a tape measure to get a better idea of how much soil you’ll need to displace.
This step is simple but time-consuming, so be patient and focus on getting every part of the soil as flat and smooth as possible.
To deal with large areas more systematically, draw out your leveling site as a grid, using the stakes you put down earlier to represent the criss-crossing lines. Measure and mark high and low spots within the squares based on how much soil they need to gain or lose.
11. **Check the level of your work site with a scrap board and a carpenter's level.** Lay the board down flat near the center of the site and set the level on top. If the bubble is poised directly between the indicator lines, the ground is perfectly level. Otherwise, continue spreading and smoothing until it is. Be sure to check the level in multiple spots to confirm that it's the same all around.
If the bubble is higher on one side of the level, it means that the terrain slopes downward in the opposite direction.
Using a board as a buffer will give your level a flatter surface to rest on than the soil itself, which will naturally be a little inconsistent.
12. **Tamp down the newly-spread soil to prevent it from shifting.** Go over your work area 2-3 times with a water-filled roller or hand tamper to gently compact the soil. If you’re spot-leveling small patches, walking over the reshaped terrain will also do the trick. Just be careful not to disturb the surface of the soil with your feet.
Ask about renting a roller or another tamping tool of choice when you go in to reserve your motorized tiller.
13. **Water the area lightly to help the dirt settle.** Use a gardening hose or watering can to moisten the dirt between your string lines. This will encourage it to stick together and speed up compaction and solidification. Add enough water to darken the soil, but watch out for streaming or standing water.
Oversaturating the soil could result in runoff, uneven drying, or other issues that could end up undoing all your hard work.
14. **Repeat the process if necessary to build up the soil to your leveling line.** After raking, tamping, and watering, you may discover that the surface of your soil has dropped below the string. If this happens, you’ll need to run through the same steps using smaller amounts of soil until you make up the difference. When you’re done, pull up your stakes and move on to the next phase of your project.
If you plan on replacing the strips of sod you dug up earlier, make sure the dirt remains 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) below the bordering grass. Otherwise, the grass will end up being too high in the area you just leveled.
You can also top off the soil with a thick layer of sand or decomposed stone if it will be supporting a weight-bearing structure, such as a deck, patio, or raised flower bed. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Level-Dirt", "language": "en"} |
How to Sell on Amazon | Amazon is the world's largest online retailer, which makes it the ideal market for selling your books and other items. Selling on Amazon is perfect for individuals who want to make a little money while selling the things they no longer need. If you want to know how to sell on Amazon, just follow these steps.
1. **Click on the "Your Account."** drop-down box on the Amazon homepage. You can find this option under your name on the top right-hand side of the page.
2. **Click on "Your Seller Account."** This can be found near the top of the menu on the right column on the page.
3. **Click "Start Selling."** This will take you to a new page where you can choose which type of seller you are. Click this option under "Individual Sellers" or "Professional Sellers," depending on the type of seller you'd like to become. Individual Sellers tend to be free from selling fees (with the exception of commission Amazon takes from each order) while the Professional Sellers are fee-based and tend to mostly be used by those who own (rather profitable) offline stores otherwise.
4. **Type in the relevant information.** The next page will take you to a page where you can write down your seller information, such as your credit card information (that will be used in the event the direct deposit from your funds has been released and you'll need to refund an order without selling other items), seller (business) name, and billing address.
5. **Verify your phone number.** Just type in your phone number, press "Call now," and type the 4-digit pin you're given into your phone after you receive and automated phone call.
6. **Click "Register and Continue."** This should finish setting up your seller account.
7. **Log in to your Amazon account.** If you haven't already created an Amazon account, then go to the log-on page, type your email address in the email box, click no to the password available; click the Submit button then follow the prompts for other information. You'll have to provide your name, email address, and a password you'd like to use. This will only take a few minutes.
8. **Search for the item you want to sell on the Amazon website.** Search Amazon's database by selecting the category that you think best fits your item and by using keywords. Keywords could include the name of the item, title of the book or film, as well as the edition of the product. You can also search by ISBN, UPC or ASIN. It is vital that you find the exact version and format of your item, so that customers receive exactly what they ordered. Be warned: unsatisfied customers will dish out bad reviews for poor service.
Amazon will also provide a list of recent items you purchased through its database, so if you'd like to sell one of those items, you can select it from the list.
9. **Click "Sell yours here" once you've found the item.**
10. **Select the condition of your item.** Choose from a list of different condition types, which range from new to used to collectible. Select the condition which best reflects the condition of your item. Although you can sell some items under a "Collectible" listing, most sellers choose the Used-Like New, Used-Very Good, Used-Good, or Used-Acceptable listings. Certain terms and conditions exist for selling things under Collectible that you can find when you try to sell these types of items.
11. **Add a condition note, about your exact product.** The condition note allows you to add extra information about the condition of your item. Use this to inform customers about details which are not already explicit in the description given by Amazon. You may also like to add a note about your service. Examples:
No box, cartridge only
Instructions are not included
Few scratches on front cover and disc
First class delivery
12. **Select a price for your item.** You can set your item at any price but you have more chance of selling if you set your price below Amazon's selling price and that of competing individuals.
13. **Select the quantity of the particular item you have at hand.** Select how many of this item you would like to sell. For individual sellers, this will usually remain at 1.
14. **Select your shipping methods.** This section allows you to expand your shipping zone to multiple countries and via multiple methods other than the "Standard shipping". Expedited shipping is also offered to all sellers, but that includes additional responsibilities. If you're an individual seller, it's easier to keep your shipments to your own country.
15. **Click "Submit listing."** This will put the item on sale on Amazon. If you don't have a seller account yet, then you'll have to create the account and then submit the listing. If you want to know how to create a seller account, just follow the steps in the next section.
16. **Go to your Seller Account.**
17. **Click "View your recent Marketplace orders."** You can find this option under the "Manage Your Orders" heading.
18. **Locate the order.**
19. **Verify that the status is complete.** This means your item is ready to be shipped. Click the order number of the item.
20. **Access the Order Detail page.**
21. **Verify the method of shipment.**
22. **Print a packing slip and address label.** You can do this by clicking the "view your current orders" link in your seller account and then clicking on the "print packing slip" link next to your order. The packing slip provides the address the item is to be sent to and a summary of the order.
23. **Package the item.** Your item needs to be packaged well so that it stays in good condition on its journey to your buyer. The order summary should be placed within the package and the address should be stuck or written on the outside.
24. **Mail the item.** You can send your order however you want. Remember that the quicker the customer receives their item, the better the review they are likely to give you.
25. **Confirm shipment.** Back on the "view your orders" page, click the "confirm shipment" button and type in the delivery information.
26. **Receive payment.** Only once shipment has been confirmed will the buyer's account be charged. For legal reasons, first time sellers have to wait 14 days before money is disbursed to their accounts. After this period, you are allowed to request one disbursement per day.
27. **Visit your seller account.** The seller account link is in the "your account" page on the right hand side. Your seller account page lists all the links that you need for your selling needs. These are the main links you will be using as an Amazon seller:
View your current inventory. This feature will help you see how many items you're selling.
View your orders. This link will help you see your existing orders.
View your payments account. You can track your payments from existing orders here.
28. **Change or add to your account information by using the "seller account information" link.** Use this link to update any account information that would be relevant for Amazon or for your buyers.
29. **Search for a specific order.** If you're wondering about the status of a specific order, you can use the search box to look for it.
30. **Wait for an item to be sold.** When one of your items is sold, you will receive a confirmation email from Amazon giving the details of the order. How long you have to wait will depend on the popularity of your item. Popular items will sell in a matter of a few hours (assuming the price is set just right to the buyer).
31. **View your ratings and feedback routinely.** This feedback is a valuable tool after you've sold your item. The more ratings you have and the better they are, the more likely future customers will be to buy from you. Review ratings on the "view your ratings and feedback" page in your seller account.
32. **Sell more items.** Continue to create more listings for items you'd like to sell, and continue to provide your buyers with stellar customer service.
33. **Issue a refund for an order, should the need arise.** In the unlikely event that a customer is dissatisfied by your service and you agree to give a refund, you can give a full or part refund on the "issue a refund for an order" page in your seller account. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Sell-on-Amazon", "language": "en"} |
How to Use a Ruling Pen | Ruling pens are an effective tool for creating beautiful drawings and calligraphy. Using the pen requires a bottle of ink to dip the tip into. Then you can create a variety of marks by turning the screw to adjust the prongs or holding the pen at a different angle. With some experimentation and perhaps a ruler for guidance, a ruling pen will provide your work with its own unique flair..
1. **Get a bottle of ink.** Go to the arts and crafts store and find bottled ink. India ink is a strong, black ink commonly used with ruling pens, but feel free to try other colors as you please. At home, you can dip the pen directly into the ink bottle or pour out the ink into a container.
Oil paint also can be used with ruling pens. You’ll need to mix the paint with mineral spirits and a medium such as linseed oil to make it more fluid first.
2. **Dip the pen into the ink.** Dip the pen tip about .5 inches (1.3 cm) into the ink. When you draw it back, you should see a bead of ink between the prongs. Dipping the pen means you’ll also get unwanted ink on the outside of the prongs, but this can be fixed before drawing.
3. **Scrape ink between the prongs with a paintbrush for control.** Roll a paintbrush in the ink, then scrape it against the inside of the prongs. It’ll give you more accuracy when filling the pen, so you won’t get any ink on its outside. That means there's no need to wipe down the pen with a paper towel or worry about smearing.
4. **Blot the outside of the pen with a paper towel.** If you notice ink on the outside of the prongs, wipe it off before drawing, unless you want some unintentional smears. Fold up a square of paper towel and dab the prongs. Be careful not to disturb the ink between the prongs!
5. **Get thick paper to hold the ink.** Ruling pens put down a lot of ink, so you’ll need special paper to absorb it. The best paper for your project has tooth, which means it feels rough. Cold press watercolor paper and paper made with more than 25% cotton handles ruling pens well.
6. **Hold the pen upright for thinner letters.** Hold the pen as you normally would between your thumb and index finger. For thinner lines, tilt the the pen upwards so that only the prong tips touch the paper. The pen will leave behind thin but dark lines for detailed drawings and smaller letters.
7. **Use the pen’s broad edge to create thicker letters.** Relax the pen so that the rest of the metal touches the paper. This causes the pen to put down more ink, producing thicker, more dramatic shapes and letters. The size of these marks depends on how long the edges of the prongs are.
8. **Change your hand angle to vary your writing.** As you draw, you’ll notice that how you hold your hand changes the marks the pen leaves. Raising your hand makes thinner characters and lowering your hand makes thicker ones. By altering your positioning as you draw, you can make your work appear more dynamic by changing the thickness of the lines.
9. **Practice on scrap paper first.** To develop familiarity with the pen, try drawing on scrap paper before attempting to ink your official artwork. With practice, you’ll get used to adjusting the pen to achieve the kind of shapes you want and how to achieve your desired effects.
10. **Refill your ink often.** Soon enough you’ll notice that what you draw looks a little dim. Letters and shapes take up a lot of ink. Be ready to dip the pen back into the ink after you finish writing a letter or two. It’ll keep your letters and shapes looking evenly-colored throughout your work.
11. **Twist the pen’s screw to adjust the line width.** Above the pen’s prongs, you’ll see a screw that you can use to adjust the prongs. Turn the screw to change the size of your lines. Moving the prongs closer together means you’ll get a thinner line.
12. **Rest the pen body against a straight edge.** Any standard straight edge or ruler you have on hand can be used here, but you’ll need to be careful. Lean the pen against the straight edge, keeping the prongs away from it. Angle the pen so the tips hit the area you wish to color.
The pen’s point must not be up against your straight edge. When you do this, the ink travels under the edge and smears.
You can buy rulers or French curves that have beveled or elevated edges. The raised edge means that the pen won’t smear even if you hold it flat against the implement. Find these at office supply stores.
13. **Move the pen across the paper to draw the line.** Hold the pen so that the flat parts of the prongs face to the right and left. Touch the pen’s tips to the paper. Now all you have to do is drag the pen across the page. As long as your hand doesn’t slip, you’ll have a crisp, thin line.
14. **Let the lines dry in air.** Ruling pens put down a lot of ink or paint, so your lines can take a while to dry. It’s not uncommon for paint to take up to 30 minutes to dry. Be careful and avoid working too close to your lines until you’re certain they’re dry.
15. **Get a compass with a ruling pen attached.** Compasses are often used in mathematics and drafting to draw perfect circles. You can typically find ones with ruling pens at a low price in office supply stores. If you order an old drafting tool set, you’ll probably find one of these in there too.
16. **Fill the prongs with ink.** Fill the ruling pen with ink as you normally would. You can dip it in ink or brush on the ink with a paintbrush. Make sure you wipe off any ink outside the prongs with a paper towel.
17. **Adjust the compass screw for circle size.** In addition to adjusting the pen’s screw for line width, you’ll need to adjust the compass to make it work properly. Look under the head of the compass for a screw that shortens and widens the gap between the legs. A larger gap means your circle will be bigger.
18. **Mark the center of the circle.** Some compasses come with a pencil tip. If yours doesn’t, get a pencil or similar implement to note where the center of your circle will be. To get an even circle, you’ll need to keep the compass rooted to this point.
19. **Spin the compass to create the circle.** Place the free end of the compass on the center mark, then gently rest the ruling pen on the paper. Make sure the ruling pen always touches the page. Hold the compass still as you spin it in place. When finished, you’ll have the perfect circle. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Ruling-Pen", "language": "en"} |
How to Use a Food Dehydrator | Food dehydration is a popular form of food preservation, and it has been for centuries. Modern cooks have the benefit of electric dehydrators that can hasten the process of removing moisture from food, often preserving food within 12 hours or less. Dehydrated foods are also considered to be part of the raw food movement, since the water is removed from a raw food at very low heat, leaving many of the nutrients and enzymes intact. This article will show you how to use a food dehydrator on fruits, vegetables, meat and herbs.
1. **Clean all areas carefully, wash all counters with antibacterial spray and rinse.** Wear gloves so oils from your hands do not transfer to the food.
2. **Clean and dry fruit.** Cut using a sharp knife or mandoline.
3. **Mix lemon, lime or pineapple juice with water, in a ratio of 1 to 4.** This is called a citrus bath. It is used with some fruits and vegetables to lock in enzymes and avoid browning of the produce's flesh. Bananas and apples should be soaked for 5 minutes in a citrus bath, shaken off, and then placed on the dehydrator's trays. Strawberries and cherries do not need to be pretreated.
Use an apple peeler to peel apples before hydrating, if you plan on dehydrating a lot of apples. They will allow you to slice them easily and cut the amount of time it will take you to dry your batch.
Pit cherries and cut in half before dehydrating. They can take between 12 and 20 hours.
Dry cranberries by freezing them, boiling them and then laying them out on the dehydrator.
4. **Place evenly on the drying fans/racks, so they do not overlap.** Plug in the dehydrator, cover and set the temperature. Fruit is usually dried at temperatures between 54 and 63 degrees Celsius (130 to 145 degrees Fahrenheit).
Drying times vary between dehydrators. The more liquid content the fruit have, the longer they will take. Oranges, tomatoes, lemons and bananas usually take 10 hours or longer. These are great to dehydrate overnight.
Dry fruits with equal time. They will not leech flavors from each other.
5. **Store your dehydrated fruits and vegetables in jars or airtight plastic bags, since oxygen makes them spoil more quickly.** Place them in a cool, dark pantry to ensure they cannot be spoiled by sunlight or heat.
6. **Make fruit leather by mixing fruits and vegetables with a little water in a blender.** Spread the mixture on plastic wrap at 43 to 48 degrees Celsius (110 to 118 degrees Fahrenheit) for 4 hours. When the leather is dry on the bottom side, peel it off the plastic wrap and put it with the opposite side down on the fan of the dehydrator. Dry for 1 to 2 more hours, until it is at your desired consistency.
7. **Clean and dry your vegetables.** Vegetable dehydration is common with gardeners who like to preserve the excesses of their harvest for the winter months.
8. **Cut vegetables into uniform slices.** Use a mandoline or a meat slicer to achieve this easily. It is important to have uniform slices so that they take the same amount of time to dry.
Many vegetables need to be pre-processed in order to avoid a change of color. Steam broccoli, eggplant and carrots for a short time.
Blanche summer squash, cauliflower, potatoes, sweet potatoes or carrots until they are soft but still crisp. To blanche means to plunge something in boiling water for a few seconds or minutes, then put them on ice. This locks in enzymes and starches so it will contain the same enzymes and be nutritious when it is rehydrated. You do not need to pre-process zucchini. Spray lemon juice on carrots to keep the color.
9. **Place vegetables evenly on the racks, without overlapping.** Dehydrate using temperatures between 54 and 63 degrees Celsius (130 and 145 degrees Fahrenheit).
To create roasted flavors in your peppers, cut them in half, broil them until they start to blister, cool and then dehydrate them skin side down.
10. **Dehydrate garlic and onions separately.** Other vegetables will absorb the flavor if you dry them together.
11. **Cut meat**
12. **Choose a meat marinade.** Most recipes have a high salt content combined with combination black pepper, brown sugar and sauces.
13. **Mix the marinade ingredients separately.** Spread the marinade generously, on all surfaces of the meat. Store in a covered glass dish for 12 hours.
14. **Place strips on the dehydrator racks, without overlapping.** Dry for 4 hours at 60 to 70 degrees Celsius (140 to 160 degrees Fahrenheit). Check jerky. Dry for the remainder of the time at 54 degrees Celsius (130 degrees Fahrenheit). Jerky is done when it cracks, not breaks, when you bend it.
Jerky will last between 1 and 2 months, but can be frozen to last longer.
15. **Wash and dry your herbs.** Remove thick stems.
16. **Place your herbs on the drying rack without overlapping.** If you are drying seeds, place them on cheesecloth in the dehydrator.
17. **Dry for 4 hours or less.** Check the herbs often, as they are delicate. When they are crisp and dry, remove them. Store in an airtight container for use up to a year after they are dry. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Use-a-Food-Dehydrator", "language": "en"} |
How to Remember the Colors of the Rainbow | Some people have a hard time remembering the colors of the rainbow. However, a few simple memory tricks can help you better remember the colors. If you need to remember the colors for a test or quiz, mnemonic devices and other means of memorization can come in handy. You should also work on memorizing when you're energized and refreshed as this will help you remember better.
1. **Try Roy G Biv.** Try to remember the name of an imaginary person called Roy G. Biv. The letters in this name correspond to the order of the colors of the rainbow. The letters break down like this:
stands for Red
stands for Orange
stands for Yellow
stands for Green
stands for Blue
stands for Indigo
stands for Violet.
2. **Use the Richard of York Device.** If you struggle to remember Roy G. Biv, try remembering the sentence "Richard Of York Gave Battle In Vain." The first letter of each word in the sentence corresponds to a color of a rainbow. Try repeating this sentence to yourself if you're struggling to remember the rainbow's colors.
3. **Invent your own mnemonic device.** If you have trouble remembering established mnemonic devices, try inventing your own. A mnemonic device that's reflects your personal interests may be more meaningful to you than other devices. Pick a sentence that where the first words starts with R, the second starts with O, the third starts with Y, and so on.
For example, if you're interested in video games you can use the phrase "Really Offensive YouTube Games Built Into Videos."
4. **Use your visual memory.** If you establish a visual memory linked to the colors of the rainbow, this can help. If you're a more visual learner by nature, a visual memory may help you remember the colors of the rainbow. Try to think of a distinct image associated with each color.
For example, as red is the first color of the rainbow, try imaging a group of runners in a race. The runner with red hair can be finishing first.
If you need to remember orange is followed by yellow, you can imagine an orange cat being followed by a lighter, yellow cat.
Keep going through the colors of the rainbow, creating visual associations for each color.
5. **Write out the colors.** Simple repetition is often key to memory. Try getting a pen and paper and writing down the colors of the rainbow over and over again. This will help you commit the colors to memory.
Pay attention while you're writing as this will be most effective. As you write down the colors of the rainbow, say the colors to yourself and be aware of what you're writing.
6. **Memorize the colors in chunks.** It can be hard to memorize information all at once. If you're struggling to remember all the colors of the rainbow, break it into chunks. For example, you can remember red, orange, yellow. From there, try to remember blue, green, indigo, and violet.
If you prefer, you can also do smaller chunks. For example, remember red and orange, then blue and indigo, and so on.
You can use other memory techniques to remember your chunks. For example, you can think of a mnemonic device for "red, orange, yellow" or try writing these words down over and over again.
7. **Try to foster an interest in the colors of the rainbow.** You're likely to better remember information that interests you. If you're trying to remember the colors of a rainbow for a test, try reading up on rainbows. Learn about how a rainbow is formed, how long they last, what conditions can cause a rainbow, and so forth. If you're interested in rainbows, it may be more interesting to remember the colors of the rainbow.
8. **Study the colors in the afternoon.** Some studies suggest people study more effectively in the afternoon. Even if you see yourself as strictly a morning or night person, try studying in the afternoon if you're struggling. You may find you will recall the colors better.
9. **Get enough sleep.** If you're memorizing the colors of the rainbow for a test, get enough sleep in the days leading up to the test. Quality sleep can affect your memory and concentration. In addition to helping you remember the colors of the rainbow, solid sleep can help you recall other information for your test as well. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Remember-the-Colors-of-the-Rainbow", "language": "en"} |
How to Buy School Supplies | Shopping for school supplies can be stressful for both the seasoned shopper and the beginner. Working parents or guardians have to fight the crowds that gather on weekends or after the end of the workday. Even worse, the cost of school supplies steadily increases every year, costing families an average of just under $100 in 2015. The good news is that you don’t have to stress out or go bankrupt. By spacing out your purchases and practicing a few money-saving hacks, you can survive the back-to-school madness.
1. **Get a list from your child’s school.** Don’t rely on your child for a list of what they need for school. If a list isn’t available on the school’s website, ask the teachers if they can send you a list or give you some ideas. As a last resort, department stores sometimes have lists of common school supplies on their websites.
2. **Know the difference between requests and requirements.** Before you panic over the long supply list on the school’s website, realize that many of the items are merely requests. One good rule of thumb is to avoid items the list specifically forbids. Use your best judgment as to which items your child might need.
3. **Purchase writing supplies.** Elementary teachers usually prefer their students to use #2 (HP) pencils with erasers. Students in middle- and high school usually use ballpoint pens. Stick to black or blue ink. Most students will also need notebooks or loose-leaf paper. Check the supply list for whether you should buy wide-ruled or college-ruled paper.
Children in elementary school usually need pencil bags or boxes to store their supplies for writing and art.
Most classrooms have pencil sharpeners, but it’s always a good idea to check the supply list in case your child’s teacher requires individual pencil sharpeners.
Middle- and high-school students might need highlighters for studying and general note-taking.
4. **Buy folders.** Whether students use notebooks or loose-leaf paper, they still need folders for the documents they receive in class. Buy one folder for each class, each in a different color or pattern. That way, your child can pattern- or color-code each folder by class (red for English, green for math, rainbow stripes for science, etc.).
5. **Purchase a day planner.** Students in middle school and high school usually need day planners to keep track of their classes and after-school activities. Look for planners organized by the academic year, as opposed to the semester. This way, your child will stay organized from the first day of school in the fall to the last day of school in the spring.
6. **Buy art supplies.** Children in elementary school usually need art supplies for a variety of activities. Buy one box of crayons, colored pencils, or washable markers. Other common materials you need to purchase are safety scissors and glue. Purchase glue sticks for younger students more likely to make a mess.
7. **Purchase personal supplies.** Elementary school teachers usually request one or two boxes of facial tissues per student. Hand sanitizer also comes in handy during cold and flu season. Aim for one 8-ounce (about 237mL) bottle for the classroom and one travel-sized bottle for the backpack.
Students in middle school and high school need supplies for their lockers. Common supplies include plastic shelves, mirrors, and magnets. The school supply list should mention if a combination lock is required.
8. **Buy a sturdy backpack or book bag.** Thanks to block scheduling, many older students take only two to four classes at a time. However, textbooks haven’t gotten any lighter. Buy a bag that can carry at least two to four hardcover textbooks, a large notebook or binder, and a pencil bag.
9. **Buy a calculator.** High school students (or advanced middle school students) taking algebra, geometry, or calculus usually need calculators. Advanced math classes require specs beyond the basic calculator you use to balance your checkbook. The two most common kinds of calculators required by algebra and geometry students are:
Scientific calculators perform the functions students study in Algebra I and Algebra II. The average scientific calculator costs between $15 and $30.
Graphing calculators are required for advanced calculus classes. Graphing calculators are more expensive, costing $100 and up.
10. **Purchase a computer.** High school students will likely need a laptop or tablet computer for their assignments. Unless school officials specify certain brands, either a Mac or a Windows computer should be fine. Word processing software, such as Microsoft Word or Open Office Writer, is a must for papers and other homework assignments. If your child needs any specialty programs (such as Photoshop for a graphic design class), the school should note them on the supply list.
Buy your computer only from reputable sources, such as Simply Mac or Best Buy. Consider an extended warranty if it fits your budget.
11. **Buy external storage.** Even students who use their laptops and tablets at school need flash drives for printing their documents. Buy a smaller (4 GB) flash drive for storing basic word documents or spreadsheets. If you child is taking classes in graphic design or computer science, opt for a larger flash drive of about 16 to 32 GB.
12. **Sort out what you already have.** Check the closets, attic, or junk drawer for supplies from past school years. Chances are you have a few pens, pencils, sheets of loose-leaf paper, or coloring supplies lying around. If you have older children heading off to college, ask them if they wouldn’t mind giving their locker accessories to their younger sibling(s).
Try to find substitutes for more expensive items. For example, if your kindergartener needs an art smock, substitute an old, oversized button-down shirt.
Swap meets are another great way of accessing gently used supplies, such as binders, backpacks, locker organizers, and flash drives.
13. **Stick to basics and generics.** Choose folders, notebooks, or binders in basic colors or designs. That folder or notebook featuring Batman or Yoda might be cool this year, but it will also cost more than a folder with solid colors or abstract non-commercial designs. Don’t worry about brand names, even if the school list mentions them. Generic labels are just as good for a fraction of brand-name costs.
14. **Take advantage of discounts.** Check newspapers, store circulars, and websites for coupons. Look for items that offer rebates, and mail the rebate form as soon as possible. If you belong to a rewards site like MyPoints, shop through the website to earn points or cashback.
Cash in your points at rewards sites for gift cards or prepaid debit cards. These are usually available in denominations of $25 to $100. Use them when buying school supplies.
15. **Buy used electronic, or out-of-copyright textbooks.** Check bargain websites like Alibris or Half.com for steeply discounted used textbooks. E-book versions of required textbooks could also save you money since printing costs are not a factor. Required reading for humanities or social sciences classes might be available as free out-of-copyright PDFs from sites like Internet Archive or Project Gutenberg. Ask your instructor if they allow these older editions.
16. **Buy refurbished.** Refurbished computers run as smoothly as brand new ones for a fraction of the cost. However, you should do your homework first. Only buy refurbished products from trusted retailers like Apple or Best Buy, which offer warranties and free repairs on known issues.
17. **Buy a little at a time throughout the year.** There’s no rule that you have to buy school supplies in July and August. Each time you’re shopping for groceries or picking up a prescription, stop by the school supply aisle to look for unannounced discounts on commonly required supplies. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Buy-School-Supplies", "language": "en"} |
How to Do Automatic Writing | Automatic writing can be used as an exercise to help you increase your creativity or improve your writing, but it can also be used as an exercise in channeling more subconscious thoughts or communicating with other entities. Whatever your use for automatic writing, it can be a great exercise to transfer what's in your head to the page without inhibitions.
1. **Decide on a medium.** Do you want to use a computer for your automatic writing session or do you want to use pen/pencil and paper? This is completely based on your personal preference. Some would argue that pen and paper is the only good way to use automatic writing, but if you can type faster than you can write (and you're more comfortable with it), it may be more helpful to use a computer.
You can also try out each medium to see which one you prefer, or you can change between the two if you like.
2. **Give yourself a question or topic that you want to write about.** If you are practicing automatic writing to improve your creativity, or to help yourself get started on a writing assignment, then it will be helpful to have a prompt of some sort.
You could, for example, write about something that has been on your mind a lot lately, or about a dream you had recently that stands out in your mind. Perhaps a problem you have, or something you are excited about. Maybe you have an idea for a story in mind, in which case you can use that as your topic. If you haven't quite fleshed out in your mind all the details of the story you'd like to write, you can simply write about all the different ideas and pieces of the story that you do have.
You could, for example, answer the “5 W's” about your topic. That is, Who? What? When? Why? How? Or you could just have the topic you want to write about in mind.
3. **Set a timer.** 10 minutes should be a good starting point. Setting a timer will help you avoid wondering if you've been writing for long enough.
Remember that 10 minutes is merely a suggested starting point. If you want to write for longer, then do so. If you set your timer for 10 minutes, but you feel like you have more to write, you should keep going until you feel that you've gotten it all out.
On the other hand, you should not stop writing until the 10 minutes are up. Even if you feel that you have run out of things to write. Keep trying, and eventually your hand will write something. Remember, you can write anything, even if it's a wild tangent from your topic or only loosely related.
4. **Close your eyes if you can.** Traditionally, a key part of practicing automatic writing is to close your eyes while you write. This prevents you from thinking about something you previously wrote, or from correcting something you have written.
If you feel that you will be tempted to peek at your work during this exercise, you might also consider putting on a blindfold while you work, and / or recording your thoughts (orally) on your phone or computer, for later transcription.
If you find that you cannot write with your eyes closed, then do it with your eyes open, but remember that you are not allowed to stop writing to change what you have written. Do not cross anything out, do not erase, do not stop. If your mind suddenly changes directions, then simply start writing whatever it is you are thinking, even if it means starting a new sentence in the middle of a different one.
5. **Do a calming activity if you don't like closing your eyes.** You can listen to instrumental music, meditate, or listen to a guided meditation before and/or during your automatic writing session. This will relax you and make it easier for the words to flow.
You might meditate before your writing session, then listen to instrumental music while you write.
6. **Start writing.** Write whatever comes in to your mind as it comes into your mind. Ideally, it will be related to your topic, but if it is unrelated, you should still write it.
Pay absolutely no attention to grammar, spelling, sentence structure, style, or anything that you would normally be worried about when writing. These things are of absolutely no importance in automatic writing.
7. **Relax.** After you have completed a round of writing, stop your writing, and give yourself a break for a few minutes.
8. **Read what you have written.** Now you should go back to what you have written and read through it. Don't judge yourself harshly. What you have written may not make any sense at all, and it definitely won't be pretty.
9. **Highlight or circle anything that is interesting to you.** As you are reading, you may find things that you find particularly interesting. You should make note of these by highlighting them or circling them to come back to.
Using these ideas, you can complete another round of automatic writing, if you feel that you want to continue the exercise.
10. **Continue with your writing.** If, after using automatic writing you feel that you are ready to move on to the next step in your writing process, then do so. On the other hand, if you feel that you have moved forward, but still haven't gotten what you wanted out of the exercise, feel free to repeat as often as necessary.
11. **Find a place that is free of distraction.** You will need a comfortable place, where you won't be interrupted in order to use automatic writing in a more spiritual way.
You do not have to do this exercise for any particular amount of time, so there is no need to set a timer. However, some recommend setting aside 30-45 minutes to do your writing.
12. **Decide on how you will write.** Are you more comfortable writing with pen and paper, or do you prefer typing on a computer? This is completely based on your personal preference. While there are those that argue that it is best to use pen and paper, you should generally stick to what you are more comfortable doing.
If you're not sure how you want to do it, try doing it both ways and choose whichever is more comfortable for you.
If you use a computer, use whatever word processor you most typically use (e.g. Microsoft Word, NotePad, TextEdit on Mac, etc.)
13. **Clear your mind.** Do your best to clear your mind of all thoughts, for example, about things you have to do later in the day, things you are worried about, etc.
If you are particularly stressed, upset, angry, or worried about something, then put off your session for another time. It will be difficult to clear your mind if you have a big issue you are focused on.
Take a few deep breaths, try focusing on the air going in and out of your nostrils, and how it feels. Is it cold going in and warm going out? Is it shallow or deep? Clearing your mind is a skill that you must practice. As you practice more, you will improve.
14. **Call on the entity you wish to channel.** This might be “spirit guides”, “angels”, or “my higher self”, for example. If you wish to do this, you can do it by praying to them or through meditation.
Some suggest that this is a good idea, while others leave it out altogether. Do what feels right for you.
15. **Close your eyes.** Keeping your eyes closed will allow you to let your mind communicate more directly with your hand(s), and keep you from judging what is coming out on the paper or screen.
For this method, it is absolutely imperative that you have your eyes closed. If you feel afraid to close your eyes, then focus your eyes on the wall in front of you. Although you may end up with nothing more than marks on a page, you will improve with time. If the entity you are channeling wishes to write words and sentences, then they will do so.
16. **Put your pen to the paper.** If you are using a computer, put your hands on the keyboard as though you were about to type something.
17. **Let your hands do what they want.** Type, write, or draw whatever comes into your mind. If you are using paper, this may mean drawing symbols or doodles.
If you want to have questions answered when channeling entities, you can also do this. Begin by writing down the question you want answered, and then letting your hand freely guide you to the answer.
Don't try to interpret anything that you are drawing, writing, or typing as it is happening. Simply let it happen. Your mind may try to come back into control, but do your best to simply let the thoughts flow freely.
Only you will be able to know when an automatic writing session is over. Keep going for as long as it feels comfortable, and stop if/when it begins to feel negative or uncomfortable.
18. **Take a deep breath.** When you are finished with your session, take a few deep breaths to come back to yourself. If you wish, you can thank the entity you have channeled.
19. **Look over what you have written.** At this point, you can see what has come out on the page/screen. Hopefully you find something that makes sense for you. If not, try not to worry. Put it away for the day, and try again tomorrow. This is a skill that takes a lot of practice.
Remember that even if you are not able to achieve the result you desire, automatic writing is still great for strengthening your creativity.
20. **Keep copies of the writings.** Over time, you may see patterns, ongoing messages or other connections that are worth piecing together. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Do-Automatic-Writing", "language": "en"} |
How to Make No Sew Curtains | Need a quick set of curtains but not keen on having to fiddle with sewing or patterns? Here's an easy way to create a seamless set of curtains without sewing––great for beginners and those setting up home for the first time.
1. **Find a flat bed sheet with a wide top hem.** Depending on what look you want, you will need one twin-sized sheet, two twin-sized sheets, or one full-sized sheet. A twin-sized sheet will measure 66 by 96 inches (167.64 by 243.84 centimeters). A full-sized sheet will measure 81 by 96 inches (205.74 by 243.84 centimeters). Listed below are some options to get you started:
Get two twin-sized sheets (one per panel) if you want very full curtains.
Cut a twin-sized sheet in half to make two panels, if you want skinny curtains.
Cut a full-sized sheet in half to make two panels if you want standard curtains.
2. **Wash, dry, and iron the sheets to get rid of any shrinking, wrinkles, and fold lines.** Be sure to wash the sheets according to the directions on the package or tag. If you lost the package and can't find the tag, use a cool wash cycle, and a normal dry cycle. Iron the sheets once they are dry.
3. **Cut the sheet in half lengthwise, if needed.** If you want to turn one bed sheet into two thinner panels, fold the sheet in half and line up the edges. Press the fold with an iron, then cut along the fold.
4. **Consider hemming the cut edges for a cleaner finish.** Most sheets won't fray after you cut them, but you will get a nicer finish if you hem it. Fold both raw edges inward, towards the wrong side of the fabric, twice by ½ inch (1.27 centimeters). Press the fold flat with an iron, then insert some iron-on hem tape inside the hem. Following the instructions on the package, press the hem flat again to seal it.
Because of the length you are working with, you might find it easier to insert and iron 10 inch (25.4 centimeters) long sections of iron-on hem tape at a time.
When you are done, flip the curtain over so that the right side is facing you, and press the hems flat for 3 to 5 seconds. This helps seal the iron-on hem tape further.
5. **Using a seam ripper, open both ends of the top hem on each side of the sheet.** This will create the holes through which the curtain rod will slide––do not unpick any other part of the hem's seam, just the sides.
Consider leaving the top hem alone, and using clip-on curtain rings to hang the sheets onto the curtain rod instead.
6. **Tuck the ripped seams inside the hem for a cleaner finish.** Press flat with an iron, but do not use any iron-on hem tape.
7. **Pass the curtain rod through the hems and hang your instant curtains.** If you decided to use curtain rings, simply clip them onto the top hem, and pass the curtain rod through the rings.
8. **Place the curtains to either side of the window.** If you have a very high ceiling, hang the curtains higher up, and pull them to the outer edges of the window (as opposed to the inner edges).
9. **Use matching ribbons as tiebacks.** To prevent fraying of the ribbons, cut each end diagonally.
10. **Measure your windows to decide how large your want each curtain panel to be.** The curtains can fall just past the bottom of the window, or they can fall all the way down to the floor.
11. **Choose your fabric, then wash, dry, and iron it, if necessary, to get rid of any shrinking and wrinkles.** Some fabric types cannot be washed, so read the side of the bolt when buying your fabric; it will tell you how to wash the fabric.
12. **Cut each panel 12 inches (30.48 centimeters) longer and 2 inches (5.08 centimeters) wider than you want them to be.** You will need this extra fabric for the seam allowances.
13. **Fold the bottom hem up by ½ inch (1.27) centimeters, and press it flat with an iron.** Make sure that you are folding towards the wrong side of the fabric. For extra support, insert some iron-on hem tape inside the hem before you iron it.
14. **Fold the bottom hem up again, this time by 5 inches (12.7 centimeters).** Insert a strip of iron-on hem tape before you press the hem down, then follow the instructions on the package when ironing it. Make sure that the top edge of the tape aligns with the folded edge of the hem. Folding the hem twice like this gives you a cleaner finish, and you won't have to worry about any fraying edges showing.
You might find it easier to insert and iron 10 inch (25.4 centimeters) long sections of iron-on hem tape at a time.
15. **Fold each side hem over twice by ½ inch (1.27 centimeters), and press flat with an iron.** Once again, make sure that you are folding towards the wrong side of the fabric. Insert a piece of iron-on hem tape inside the second set of hems you are folding. For extra support, you can insert some iron-on hem tape inside the first set of hems as well.
16. **Fold the top hem down by ½ inch (1.27 centimeters), and press flat with an iron.** Once again, make sure that you are folding towards the wrong side of the fabric. For extra support, insert some iron-on hem tape inside the hem before you press it with an iron.
17. **Fold the top hem down again, but this time by 6 inches (15.24 centimeters), and press flat with an iron.** Insert a strip of iron-on hem tape before you press the hem down. Make sure that the top edge of the tape aligns with the top, folded edge of the hem.
18. **Flip the curtain so that the right side is facing you, and press the hems flat for 3 to 5 seconds.** This will help fuse the iron-on hem tape inside the hems further.
19. **Leave the top hem alone if you want to slide it onto the curtain rod, or use clip-on curtain rings.** This is the easiest and simplest way of hanging curtains.
20. **Consider attaching some tabs to make a self-pleating curtain.** Flip the curtain so that the back is facing you. Cut 3½ inch (8.89 centimeters) long strips of 2 inch (5.08 centimeters) wide ribbon. Space the ribbons 4 inches (10.16 centimeters) apart. Glue the top of each ribbon strip to the top of the curtain. Glue the bottom of each ribbon 3 inches (7.62 centimeters) from the top of the curtain, creating a bulge. Slide the panels onto the curtain rod.
Choose a ribbon color that matches your curtain color.
21. **Hang your curtains.** Take the curtain rod off the wall, and attach the curtains. When you are done, place the rod back onto the wall. Position the panels to either side of the window, and tie them back with pieces of matching ribbon, if desired. If you have a very high ceiling, you may want to hang the curtains higher up, and pull them to the outer edges of the window (as opposed to the inner edges) instead.
If you are using curtain rings, clip them onto the top hem, and pass the curtain rod through the rings.
If you are using ribbon tabs, pass the curtain rod through the tabs.
If you are using just the hem, pass the curtain rod through the wide, top hem. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Make-No-Sew-Curtains", "language": "en"} |
How to Get Your Ex Girlfriend Back | Relationships often end in a whirlwind of doubt and bitter accusation. You probably said a few things you didn't mean, and she fought back. Now that you've had a little bit of time to think about what's been lost, you know you want her back. If you put your heart and mind to it, you might be able to win her over all over again. Fixing whatever went wrong in the first place can be all it takes to prove that you've changed.
1. **Get your life back on track.** So you've been in a relationship for some time, and maybe your girlfriend has just broken it off. It's a sad and lonely time for you right now, but focus on the things you can change about yourself before you move back on to her.
Girls want to see self-improvement from guys. Maybe your girlfriend complained about something you did while you two were in your relationship. Maybe there's something that you know you can improve simply because it will make you a better person. Well, now's the time to strike. Cut your video game playing down to a reasonable time, if that's what she wants, or start wearing cleaner clothes when you're around her. If you focus on being a better person while apart, you can go back to her with the "evidence" that you're a new guy.
Recover emotionally. You don't stand a chance of getting your ex back if you're not emotionally calm and controlled. Women dislike needy, clingy, desperate men - so you need to pull your own life together before attempting to draw her back into it. Like it or not, showing her that you can deal with life on your own will attract her back to you. That's because girls like men who are self-sufficient and independent. So go out to the gym, visit the movies with friends, or start an adventure. If you're having a great time, she'll want to be there with you.
Get some new clothes. New times call for new duds. It's a subtle change in you, but the importance will be clear to her: your new outer shell will signal deeper changes underneath. Get that new shirt that you've been wanting to buy, or those new pair of jeans. Looking sharp is an important aspect of physical attraction, and if she sees you looking great in unfamiliar clothes, she'll sense that there's been forward movement, if not wholesale change.
2. **Get the right attitude.** Getting your ex-girlfriend back starts with finding the right attitude. Girls, for the most part, want to see mature, independent guys who like to have fun and know what they're good at. We know that's a lot to work, so start small if you're feeling overwhelmed.
Stop being jealous. Being jealous will get you nowhere. Jealousy is associated with fear and anxiety, two unattractive traits to have. Plus, what you're non-verbally telling her is that you want to control her. No one wants to be controlled. So learn to fight your jealousy if you can, and focus on being non-threatening. You'll get more bees with honey than you will with vinegar.
Act like nothing's wrong. Even if your guts are tumbling like clothes in a washing machine, try not to let her know. She's probably not going to want you back if you're acting depressed, mopey, or sulky. Make sure you're laughing and genuinely trying to have a good time. You might find that you've become a happier person along the way. If you are feeling depressed, surround yourself with friends or family. Don't wait alone in a corner and just hope for her to come back to you.
Develop a playful sense of humor. What do girls say they look for most in guys? A sense of humor and a playful attitude These two traits are attractive because they tell other people that we're youthful and not aggressive. So learn a few jokes if you can (friends are always good to try them out on) and keep the ones that work and throw away the ones that don't. Learn to make fun of yourself a little, in a confident way — not a mopey way. And, for goodness sake, be playful, especially when you're around her. Tease her lovingly, or play a small prank on a friend. You'll notice the difference in her.
3. **Leave her alone.** At least for a little while, give her some time to think about the relationship. If you had a great relationship, she'll think about all the good things that you did for her and feel the absence of you in her life.
Cut off all communication. Maybe you don't talk to her for a couple weeks, or perhaps a month. This is tough and it will hurt, but really it's killing her more. This will also let your tempers cool down if things were heating right when you broke up. It's a good idea to always move slowly. If no one cheated or there was no abuse, things probably can be worked out.
You need to give her space for three reasons: 1) People simply need space; if you can't give her any space, maybe that's something you can work on to show her that you've changed. 2) She'll get an opportunity to realize how good you are; not that she doesn't know this already, but she may not feel it in her bones. 3) You'll show her how independent you are on your own; the "rebel" is so attractive to women because he's totally on his own and doesn't need other people. That said, be a friend and keep in touch regularly so you don't leave her mind.
4. **Start talking to another girl.** Don't do anything with her, but strike up a friendship. You want to raise your own stock by showing her that other girls like you and are attracted to you.
Don't get this step confused with pursuing another girl. You want to hang out and talk, do fun things together, but not hook up. If you hook up with another girl, your chances of getting back together with your ex are greatly diminished.
Go out with a group of girls. Show your ex that attentive girls like being around you. These girls will be your wing-women. If you can pull together a big group of popular, intelligent, smart girls, chances are your ex is going to feel more interested, maybe without even noticing it.
5. **Tap your inner alpha male.** The alpha male, in nature, is the male in a group of primates that has the highest rank, and gets his pick of the females.
Most girls are attracted to the alpha male for deep biological reasons: They believe he can provide for them better, protect them better, and give her biologically fit children. Even if you don't think that alpha males are your ex's type, subtle changes might work on her: pump out your chest a bit, make an effort to work out your arms and thighs, and project strength.
6. **Give her an apology.** Whether you broke up with her, or she broke up with you, an apology is almost always in order. An apology shows her that you're capable of swallowing your ego, and that you care enough to tell her you were wrong. If done correctly, an apology will work wonders.
Send her flowers. Girls love flowers, for reasons men still don't know. They die after a week, and they just sit around gathering dust. Well, odds are your ex probably loves them, because they smell pretty and look good and she gets to show them to her friend and brag about how much someone cares for her. You want to be that someone.
Send her a letter. Girls also love letters, because they take a lot of time and you have to express your feelings. Start off by saying something like: "I know this letter doesn't fix what's broken between us, and maybe it never will. But I want you to know that I care deeply about you, and I always will. That part has never changed. The part that's changed is that I realize how stupid I was to let you go."
Tell her in person, asking directly without playing games. Set a time to meet in a public place, or a place that you know she'll feel comfortable in. When the time is right, say: "I know I made some mistakes during our relationship, and I wanted to take full responsibility for those. I shouldn't have done [whatever it is you did] to you, and I feel horrible now. But the biggest mistake I made was losing you. I don't expect anything from you, I just want you to know that."
7. **Slowly work up to friendship.** Maybe some trust was broken in your relationship, and now it's time for you to start repairing it. Trust for girls is a big thing. You want to show her that she can trust you again, that you are worthy of her trust.
Do something nice for her without expecting her to pay you back. If she's studying late for an exam, pop by with her favorite tea or coffee and let her know that you know she's going to kill it tomorrow. If one of her friends gets in an accident, stop by and pay your respects (the friend will definitely let your ex know you stopped by). If your ex mentions she wanted to see a movie, buy her two tickets for her and her friend to see, and don't butt in. Your time will come soon.
Go out for coffee or tea together. Ride your bikes into town. Hang out at the pool. Have conversations about things both of you find funny, or like talking about. Remember to act confident, be funny, and get that playfulness out so that she can see it.
8. **Tell her you still have feelings for her.** Once you've apologized and become her friend again, you can finally tell her you want her back. Try to pick a romantic spot to do this, and try to tell her when it's just you two. It won't hurt if you're looking your best.
Be honest about how you feel, within reason. Don't tell her what she might have done wrong in the relationship. Instead, focus on you. Let her know that you've thought a lot about where things went wrong, and show her all the ways in which you've changed. Tell her how you've become more patient, more forgiving, more aware of your own shortcomings, and be sure to back it up with action. If you say you've become more forgiving, be able to show her that you're not as quick to point out other peoples' faults.
You can say something like: "After we broke up, I realized I was looking for love in the wrong places. I realized that you gave me exactly what I need, and it's really a shame that I had to realize that after we broke up. But I realize it now, and I'd be stupid not to try to get you back, because you're exactly what I need."
Or you can say something like: "You may not like it, but most of what I do now, I do it for you. You've made a better person. I understand what it means to care for someone now that I've been with you. I want to share that with you again, this time better. Because I can't deny that I still have feelings for you. I'd be lying to myself and lying to the world."
Assure her that you both can fix the issues that led to your breakup. Remember why you guys broke up in the first place, so you can learn from your own mistakes. Have a plan ready, and discuss that plan with her. It's no use in getting back together if you go through the same issues all over again. If you didn't listen to her feelings enough, be sure that you're listening when you tell her you like her. If you didn't get along with her friends, make an extra effort to get along with them. Have a plan to attack what's likely to go wrong, and you'll impress the socks off of her. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Get-Your-Ex-Girlfriend-Back", "language": "en"} |
How to Load a Grease Gun | Grease guns are used to apply viscous lubricant onto moving mechanical parts, used commonly in machine shops and garages. Properly lubricating moving metal parts helps to increase the service life of machines and avoid abrasions. Grease lubricant is applied with a grease gun, available at most hardware and auto parts stores. Loading one can be a bit messy, but uncomplicated, whether you've got a cartridge loader or a reservoir-style grease gun.
1. **Separate the grease gun head from the barrel.** If you have access to bulk grease in large containers, grease guns can be loaded more efficiently. To get started, unscrew the head from the cap. The head is the part with the handle and applicator tube attached. Unscrew the two pieces of the grease gun and separate them.
Make sure that the handle on the back of the barrel, which is the handle of the piston rod, is fully depressed into the barrel, or you risk sucking some grease through the gun during the process, accidentally.
2. **Insert the open end of the barrel into a container of grease.** Fill the barrel by holding the open end of the barrel down into the container of grease and slowly drawing back on the plunger rod to fill the reservoir, pulling grease back into the barrel.
Bulk grease containers are available at hardware stores and auto parts stores, widely, and are commonly used in garages in place of smaller cartridges. If you're a serious mechanic, this might be a good option for you.
3. **Remove the barrel from the grease.** When the plunger rod has been fully withdrawn, lift the open end of the barrel out of the container of grease. Rotate the barrel to break it free from grease that may cling to the barrel. Use a cloth or rag to wipe excess grease from the end of the barrel.
4. **Reattach the barrel of the grease gun to the head of the grease gun.** Different grease guns will work in slightly different ways. For some, it might be a matter of screwing the end cap on, while others need the nozzle screwed on. Either way, engage the threads and turn until the joint is fully seated.
5. **Test the dispensing of the grease.** Press on the handle of the piston rod and squeeze the trigger of the grease gun until delivery of grease is seen at the end of the grease gun applicator tube. Wipe excess grease from the dispensing tip and the body of the grease gun. Use a cloth or rag to wipe the gun down and clean it to prepare for use.
6. **Unscrew the cartridge cap.** Cartridge-loaders are made of two basic parts: the cartridge of grease itself, housed in a similarly-sized and shaped housing, and the dispenser or nozzle, from which the grease is extruded. To remove the cartridge, you'll basically just unscrew the cap that the cartridge is in by turning it clockwise while turning the dispenser nozzle counterclockwise. It might be screwed on kind of tight, so use some elbow grease.
7. **Pull back on the metal handle.** On the end of the barrel where the cartridge is held, opposite the nozzle, you should see a plunger rod that’s used to push on the cartridge and force the grease out. Continue to pull until the plunger rod is withdrawn fully from the barrel.
On some grease guns, pulling back should make the cartridge eject automatically. Depending on how much gunk is built up on the inside, it may come out all or halfway. Before you remove it, though, you need to secure the rod in place.
8. **Secure the piston rod and remove the cartridge.** On most grease guns, you should be able to move the piston rod sideways slightly, into a slot in the barrel so that it cannot move forward. On some grease guns, the retracted piston rod will latch into the fully retracted position, and a release tab is provided on the end of the barrel to allow the piston rod to move again.
When you've secured the rod in place, you can pull the empty cartridge loose and discard it.
9. **Prepare the new grease cartridge for loading.** Cartridges are typically available at hardware and auto parts stores. Typical sizes are 14 oz. (414 ml) and 16 oz. (473 ml) cartridges. Before you load one in, it's a good idea to clean up the gun slightly to get it ready for a new cartridge. Wipe the end of the barrel with a cloth or rag. This will remove excess grease that may have leaked out during removal of the spent grease cartridge.
Before inserting a new cartridge, remove the plastic cap from one end of the new cartridge, so the grease can flow out normally.
For lots of people, storing grease cartridges upside down is a good way of getting it to settle on the right side, near the nozzle. If it hasn't been stored upside down, shaking it hard once or twice toward the cap can help to settle it in the direction you want, before inserting it.
10. **Insert the cartridge into the barrel.** Insert the end of the cartridge that had the plastic cap on it first. Push it fully in, so that the end of the cartridge seals with the end of the barrel. Remove the metal seal from the exposed end of the cartridge. Discard the metal seal.
11. **Reattach the barrel to the head of the grease gun.** Screw it on part way, two full rotations, without screwing it down tightly. Release the piston rod from the retracted position and push it into the barrel while simultaneously pumping the handle of the grease gun nozzle. This helps to work air through the mechanism and get the grease started. Stop when grease begins to appear at the dispensing head nozzle.
Continue screwing together the head and barrel. Push on the piston rod to ensure that it is fully engaged in the replacement grease cartridge. Pump the handle make sure that grease is being delivered. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Load-a-Grease-Gun", "language": "en"} |
How to Sew Oven Mitts | Oven mitts are essential for cooking, whether you are baking, grilling, or sautéing something on high heat. You can create your own pair of oven mitts using the printed cotton fabrics of your choice. This makes a great gift for the culinary enthusiast in your life! Sewing oven mitts is an easy sewing project that even a sewing novice can complete and it should only take about an hour.
1. **Choose a natural fabric in the print and color of your choice.** You will need about 0.25 yd (0.23 m) of this fabric. You can use any type of heat resistant fabric on the outside of the oven mitts. Make sure to choose a fabric that will not melt. Avoid synthetic fabrics and opt instead for a natural fabric, such as 100% cotton.
Choose a printed fabric that features kitchen or food related images, such as chili peppers, cupcakes, or flames.
Try holiday themed printed fabrics, such as candy canes, holly, or snowflakes for Christmas or winter holiday oven mitts.
2. **Select an insulating fabric for the inside of the oven mitts.** You will need 0.25 yd (0.23 m) of a thick insulating fabric for the interior of the mitts. Make sure to choose an insulating material that is heat resistant, such as cotton batting. Do not use polyester batting.
Depending on the thickness of the insulation fabric, you may need more than 1 layer per side of the oven mitts. Compare the thickness of the fabric to the thickness of a pair of pre-made oven mitts, or just double the insulating fabric if you are unsure. It is better to have too much insulation than not enough.
3. **Get 0.25 yd (0.23 m) of double fold bias tape to accent the oven mitts.** You will have some raw edges to cover around the opening of your oven mitts. Bias tape is ideal for this part of sewing oven mitts. You can purchase bias tape in many different colors and prints.
Choose bias tape that is about 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5.1 cm) wide. This will ensure that there will be at least 0.5 in (1.3 cm) on either side of the mitt edges.
4. **Trace an oven mitt or your hand onto paper to make a pattern.** You do not need to purchase a pattern for an oven mitt. You can simply trace the edges of an existing oven mitt or your hand onto a regular piece of 8.5 by 11 inches (22 by 28 cm) paper. Make sure to leave about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) of space around the edges if you are tracing an oven mitt and 1 in (2.5 cm) if you are tracing your hand. After you finish tracing the mitt or your hand, cut along the lines.
If you are tracing your hand, keep your fingers together and your thumb out to the side of them. Your thumb should be at about a 45 degree angle from your hand to ensure that there is plenty of room for the space beside your thumb and fingers.
5. **Align the paper pattern on the fabric as desired.** Fold 1 of your fabric pieces so that it is doubled, and place the oven mitt pattern over the folded fabric. If your fabric is printed, then you will need to consider how you want it to look on the outside of the oven mitts. Try different placements of the pattern on the fabric to see what you like best, and then pin the pattern in place.
For example, if the pattern has stripes, consider if you want them to go vertically, horizontally, or diagonally across the mitts.
If you are using a solid fabric for your oven mitts, then you do not need to worry about this.
6. **Trace around the edges of the oven mitt with chalk or a fabric marker.** Hold the oven mitt in place while you trace it. Then, remove the oven mitt pattern from the fabric after you have traced all the way around it.
Repeat this 1 more time for the printed fabric and 1 time for the insulation fabric using the same pattern. You will need 4 of the printed oven mitt fabric pieces and 2 of the insulation pieces.
7. **Use a sharp pair of scissors to cut out your fabric pieces.** After you have traced the pattern onto the fabric pieces, cut along the lines to create the oven mitt pieces. You should have 4 exterior fabric pieces and 2 interior insulation pieces when you are done.
These pieces will create 1 oven mitt. Cut out another complete set of fabric pieces if you want to make a pair of oven mitts.
8. **Stack 2 sets of fabric pieces in the order you will sew them together.** After you have all of the required fabric pieces for creating your oven mitt, stack the pieces to create a fabric sandwich. On the bottom, place 1 of the oven mitt printed fabric pieces with the print side facing down. Place a piece of insulation over that. Then, place another piece of the printed fabric on top with the print side facing up.
Repeat this fabric sandwich for the other side of the mitt so that you have a total of 2 stacks.
9. **Sew diagonal lines across the fabric pieces if desired.** This is optional, but you can easily create a quilted effect if you are using fabric that is not pre-quilted. To do this, sew diagonal lines across your mitts going in both directions. You may want to mark the lines on your fabric with a piece of chalk to ensure that they are even and straight.
Start in 1 corner of the mitt and draw a diagonal line 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5.1 cm) from the corner going from 1 edge to the other.
Then, move the fabric up 1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5.1 cm) from the line you just drew and draw another diagonal line parallel to it.
Repeat all the way across the fabric stack, and then sew straight across each of the lines. Cut the thread after you sew across each line.
Then, sew another set of diagonal lines starting from the opposite corner of the mitt so that they will cross the first set of lines.
Repeat this process for your other fabric stack.
10. **Sew a piece of bias tape to the straight edge of 1 fabric stack.** There will be a raw edge at the bottom of each of your fabric stacks, where the opening to your oven mitts will be. To cover this, take a piece of the double fold bias tape that is the same length as this edge and wrap it around the edge of the fabric. Sew along the edges of the bias tape to secure it in place.
Repeat for the other stack.
11. **Place 1 stack on top of the other 1 and pin along the edges.** Once you have both of your fabric stacks secured and the ends are covered with bias tape, place 1 stack on top of the other so that all of the edges of the pieces are lined up. Then, insert a few pins into each of the edges to secure the stacks together. Do not pin along the area that will be the open end of the oven mitts.
Insert the pins going from the outer edge of the fabric to the inside of the mitts. This will make them easier to remove while you sew them.
12. **Sew a straight stitch 0.25 inches (0.64 cm) from the edges.** Use your sewing machine’s straight stitch setting to sew along the edges of the mitts. Make sure to leave the bottom edge open. This is the edge where you attached the bias tape.
The straight stitch setting is usually #1 on sewing machines. Check your instruction manual if you are unsure about how to set your machine to the straight stitch setting.
13. **Cut the excess fabric around the raw edges of the mitt.** To ensure that you will be able to wear the mitts comfortably, you may need to trim some of the excess fabric. Use a pair of sharp scissors to trim excess fabric along the stitching.
The thumb may benefit most from having some fabric removed since it is a smaller area and any excess fabric may make it feel tight.
Be careful not to cut through the stitching.
14. **Turn the oven mitt right-side out.** After you have finished trimming the excess fabric, invert the oven mitt and try it on! Use your fingers to press the fabric out from the inside, especially around the tips of the mitt finger and thumb sections. After you have done this, your oven mitt is finished and ready to use! | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Sew-Oven-Mitts", "language": "en"} |
How to Sell Gold Jewelry | How can you sell your gold jewelry without getting ripped off? The world of buying and selling gold can seem intimidating, but we’ll teach you how to sell your jewelry in a smart, savvy way. We’ll go over the pros and cons of selling to jewelry stores, pawnshops, professional gold buyers, and online services. Then, we’ll let you in on how much much money you can expect to get from selling your gold jewelry and how to get the highest possible price.
1. **Get an offer from a jeweler for a safe, convenient option.** This is a quick way to make a deal in person and walk away with cash, but you may not get as much money from a jewelry store as you would if you chose to sell to a gold buyer. They also don't have calibrated scales checked by the Weights and Measures Division, which means they might not calculate payment accurately. Lastly, a jeweler might try to convince and pressure you to purchase an item in their store, even if you’re only trying to sell your jewelry.
To make sure they’re reputable, check out your local jeweler’s credentials online. See if they’re part of a trade group like the American Gem Society, Jewelers of America, the GIA, or the Jewelers Vigilance Committee.
Then, look the business up with the Better Business Bureau (BBB) and check out online reviews.
Shop around. Always get multiple quotes before selling your jewelry. Different stores may offer lower prices than others, depending on how much of a cut they take and whether they can recognize special pieces.
2. **Go to a pawnshop to get cash fast.** The positive side of pawnshops is that you can walk out the door with cash in hand within 10 minutes. The downside is that pawnshops rarely have the equipment to properly measure gold, and they won’t give you the best price. It’s best to avoid this option and shop around a little more, unless you’re pressed for time and need cash right away.
3. **Sell to a gold buyer for the best price.** Find a local gold buyer by checking online reviews and searching the business up in the BBB directory. Their scales are calibrated by the official Weights and Measures Division to ensure you have a fair and accurate reading. Buying gold is their only business, so unlike jewelry stores, they aren’t motivated to sell you another piece of jewelry. Gold buyers are typically licensed by the Department of Justice as well as with their local police departments to help recover any stolen gold they encounter.
Avoid “hotel buyer” scams. These companies come in for 1 day only to try to buy gold as cheap as possible and take advantage of customers. Trust a company that at least has a presence in your local community with a good reputation.
4. **Sell to a reputable gold-buying website for a fair, easy option.** Online gold buyers will pay you in the form of a check or wire transfer. All you have to do is pack your jewelry with the insured shipping label they send and wait for your payment, CashforGoldUSA.com is considered one of the most reputable sites, and they’ll pay you within 24 hours of receiving the envelope. If you also have gold coins, you can visit GoldBroker.com or American Bullion.
Find out how long you have to evaluate the offer, and see if the company allows you to return the money in exchange for your jewelry if you’re unhappy with the offer.
Only mail your gold in an insured package with tracking.
As with brick-and-mortar businesses, look up the gold-buying service in the BBB or through the Jewelers Vigilance Committee website.
5. **Determine if your gold is worth more than just melt value.** Most gold jewelry gets melted down when it’s sold, and you should expect to be paid about 70-80% of the melt value. That difference is due to the buyer’s cut of the profits and the cost of melting down the piece. But if your jewelry is a designer piece (like Cartier or Tiffany’s), or an antique piece, you should expect more than 80% of the melt value. If anyone offers you scrap gold prices for a designer piece, don’t accept the deal.
A good point of reference a gold buyer uses is, "What will this cost me to remake this item brand new?" They won’t pay much over the melt price unless it's a very intricate piece.
Designer pieces will be compared to other designer pieces that have sold on sites like eBay and Worthpoint. Remember when you look at the selling price that these sites take a cut between 10-15%.
You don’t need to get an official appraisal from a jeweler. An appraisal is something you pay a jeweler for so you have paperwork to insure your items. Appraisals are often way above what you paid for your jewelry. If you want to know the true resale value of your gold jewelry, see what a buyer will actually offer.
6. **Sort your gold by purity.** By organizing your gold before your visit, you’ll save yourself and the gold dealer time. Use a magnifier to check the little labels on the gold for "10k," 14k," and so on. This number refers to the karat, which tells the percentage of the gold piece that is pure gold. The higher the number (up to 24k), the purer the gold. Separate the jewelry by karat, and then place the jewelry into separate bags or containers.
Remove as many of your items in your collection that are imitation gold. The best way to start this process is with a strong magnet.
Anything that sticks to the magnet is very, very likely not solid gold, and you shouldn’t include it when you bring your gold to a buyer.
7. **Measure the weight of your gold.** It’s easiest to measure in grams, plus the price of gold is often listed as the price per gram. However, many gold buyers will use a special weight system called a pennyweight or a troy ounce. If they use a different measurement, just make sure you get paid by the right unit. For instance, if they measure by the pennyweight but pay you by the gram, you’re getting ripped off. Use these conversions below to double check that you and your buyer are weighing your gold the same:
1/20th of a troy ounce is 1 pennyweight.
1 ounce is 0.911 troy ounces.
1 troy ounce is 31.1035 grams.
8. **Calculate how much you’ll get when you sell your gold.** To find the current gold price, visit https://www.kitco.com. The price that a gold buyer will give you for your jewelry is based on the price of gold for that day. However, keep in mind that price is based on 24 karat gold, which is 100% pure. To find the price for your piece, multiply the price of gold for that day by the percentage of your gold’s purity (check out common percentages below). Then multiply that number by your gold’s weight in grams.
10 karat gold has 41.7% gold content, 14 karat has 58.5% gold content, 18 karat has 75% gold content, and 24 karat is pure gold.
For example, if you have a 14k gold chain, "14k" means it’s 58.5% pure.
Calculate the price based on the purity: If the price per gram that day is $57.44 per gram, at most you would get 58.5% of $57.44 ($33.6 for each gram).
Factor in the weight: If your 14k gold chain weighs 6.8 grams, it would be worth at most $33.6 x 6.8 (which is $228.48 total).
Consider the melt value: You can expect a potential buyer to offer you between 50%-80% of the $228.48 due to their fees and the price of melting the gold down. That means you’d expect a price of $114.24-$182.8.
If your jewelry has precious or semi-precious stones, the weight of those will be deducted and not paid in gold weight. As an example, if your ring weighs 3 grams with a large amethyst, they will pay you based on 2 grams of gold and factor 1 gram for the amethyst stone.
9. **Get at least 3 quotes from buyers on the phone.** Tell buyers exactly how much weight you have of each karat of gold and ask for a total payout amount. Be wary of companies that only quote a "price per gram" because they may only be referring to 24 karat gold.
Always try to get a price by asking "What will the total payout be when I walk out the door?"
If any place won't give you a phone quote with an adequate description of what you have, they’re probably hiding their prices because their payouts are terrible.
Do your research before you go to the place that gave you the best phone quote. Check them out on Google, Facebook and Yelp.
10. **Let your chosen buyer evaluate the piece in person.** A gold buyer with a business license must have a physical location, so don’t trust “mobile services” and “gold exchange parties.” Wait for the buyer to make the first offer. If they ask, “How much do you want for this?” say something like, “I’d love to hear your opinion on what it’s worth, given its quality.”
Don't let them take your gold to the "back" or out of sight. This shouldn't be necessary and should make you uncomfortable. Ask that your gold is tested in front of you, or find a different buyer.
If you leave and their offer goes up by double or triple, DO NOT go back, that’s a classic rip-off strategy.
Many places might need to take a sample of your gold before making a formal offer, but make sure they get your permission to take a file to your jewelry if you aren't sure about selling it. If they don’t get your permission before taking a sample of your gold, find a different buyer.
11. **Sell your items.** Any legitimate gold buyer will require a signature, ID Card, and potentially a thumbprint. These are required and anyone who doesn't do this could be operating illegally, and you should avoid those places. Most places will pay you by check, PayPal, Venmo, Zelle, Cash App, Apple Pay, wire transfer, or cash.
Be sure they don’t measure by the pennyweight but pay you by the gram.
Be careful walking out of gold stores carrying a lot of cash. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Sell-Gold-Jewelry", "language": "en"} |
How to Kill Sod Webworms | If you spend a lot of time making your lawn look nice, it can be frustrating when pests damage your grass. Sod webworms are a type of moth that live in turfgrass. Although the adult moths won’t damage your lawn, the larvae can be extremely destructive, leaving large bare patches of grass. Luckily, it’s easy to get rid of sod webworms yourself.
1. **Water your lawn regularly.** Sod webworm caterpillars build their webs in the layer of dry thatch that forms between grass and the earth. Most light to moderate infestations of sod webworms can be managed by irrigation of the turf.
How often you water your grass will depend on the climate where you live. However, if the weather is hot and dry, you may need to water your lawn for as much as an hour a day.
2. **Spread endophyte-enhanced turfgrass seed on your lawn.** Endophytes are a special kind of fungi that live in grass. They are usually not harmful, but they can repel insects such as sod webworms. Just sprinkle the seeds into your existing grass and water the area until the grass takes root.
You can buy this special grass seed at most garden supply stores.
Follow all label instructions, especially if you have livestock which will be eating the grass. Excessive consumption of endophytes can be harmful to certain animals.
3. **Spread the nematodes Steinernema spp.** . Nematodes are an organic solution to getting rid of sod webworm caterpillars. These tiny organisms use the caterpillars as a host, leading to their death. All you have to do is sprinkle them into the grass near the affected areas.
You can purchase beneficial nematodes from specialty garden centers. However, be sure to check the expiration date, as nematodes have a very short shelf life.
4. **Apply an insecticide in the early evening to treat a severe infestation.** If you are noticing extensive grass damage, you may need to use an insecticide. Effective insecticides include those containing acephate, bendiocarb, or carbaryl.
Watering the grass before you apply an insecticide will help the chemicals penetrate the grass better. It will also force the caterpillars to the surface of the grass.
You can use either a spray or a granular insecticide. If you use a spray solution, apply at least 15–25 gallons (57–95 L) of insecticide for every 1,000 square feet (93 m) of grass.
If you use a granular insecticide, apply it with a fertilizer spreader. Follow the label’s irrigation instructions: usually granular insecticides are followed by about an hour of watering to ensure the granules get down into the turf.
5. **Watch for pale-brown moths on your lawn at dusk.** Adult sod webworms are most active on warm evenings, especially during July and August. They are easily identified by their prominent snout and the jerky movements they make as they fly.
Seeing a few adult sod webworms doesn’t necessarily mean you need to treat your lawn. However, if you see a large number of them, you can assume they will produce a large number of larvae. It's the sod webworm larvae, or caterpillars, that cause damage to your grass.
6. **Look for brown, cut patches in your grass.** As the larvae feed on your grass, you will begin to see small patches appear. It will appear that the grass has been cut or sheared.
Damage from sod webworm caterpillars can be up to the size of a baseball on your lawn. If an infestation is particularly bad, however, these patches may join together, creating even larger brown patches.
The brown patches may sometimes have visible pencil-sized holes due to birds searching for the webworm larvae.
Since sod webworm larvae live in the dry thatch beneath grass, damage appears most frequently on slopes and banks that are hard to irrigate.
7. **Examine your turf for webs and fecal pellets.** Sod webworm larvae create silky tunnels, or webs, to protect themselves. In addition, they leave frass, or soft green fecal pellets, on grass stems. These will both be visible when you examine the grass.
8. **Flush out the larvae with soapy water.** Dilute 2 tablespoons (30 mL) of dish detergent in 1 gallon (3.8 L) of water. Spread the mixture over a 2 ft × 2 ft (0.61 m × 0.61 m) area near the outside of the dead patches of grass.
The soap will irritate the caterpillars, forcing them to the surface of the grass. This will allow you to see the extent of the infestation.
If you have 10-15 larvae present, you should treat the area with an insecticide.
If there are only a few larvae, you can use a rake to destroy them. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Kill-Sod-Webworms", "language": "en"} |
How to Do a Round Off in Gymnastics | The round off is a common skill in gymnastics for most tumbling passes. It can help if you’ve already learned How to Do a Cartwheel or how to Do a Handstand. The whole move only takes a few seconds, and prepares you for more advanced sequences that you can learn by taking gymnastics lessons.
1. **Find your dominant side.** You’ll step off from, and land on your dominant leg. It’s helpful to know which side of your body is your dominant side. Generally, it’s the hand you write with or kick a soccer ball with.
This is the side you’ll want to use when you step off for your round off.
2. **Practice the quarter-turn action.** The quarter-turn action is the beginning step of a round off before your last foot even leaves the floor. It helps to make sure you have the hip movement and hand placement right before moving into the rest of the round off.
Your hands will form a diamond shape in the space between your forefingers and thumbs. This is for stability and safety. It’s a good idea to practice hand placement before tackling the whole move.
Since your hips will be rotating, it's a good idea to practice the rotation motion.
To practice the quarter-turn:
Face forward with your legs together, arms by your sides.
Bend your dominant leg and lean forward with your weight on that leg.
Reach your other leg behind you. Your torso should be parallel to the ground.
Reach your arms out straight above your head.
Place your dominant hand down onto the ground and rotate your hips, lifting the opposite leg high into the air.
3. **Get a running start.** With your dominant leg, start running into your round off. The momentum of starting with speed helps to get your legs into the air easier.
Just before you start the round off, make sure you have a hurdle run. That means you’ll make a short skip with both legs bent before leaping into the round off.
Keep your head tucked in, rather than up or out. This avoids an unnecessary arch in your back.
4. **Step into the round off.** After you’ve taken a step with your dominant leg (the skip from your running start), put your arms straight up in the air and step down onto the ground with that dominant foot.
Keep your leg bent while you step down.
As you’re stepping down with your dominant leg, the other leg should be coming up behind you.
Your hands should be out in front of you, palms open, waiting to catch your controlled fall.
5. **Control your form.** For this part of the move, it’s important to keep your form controlled so you don’t injure yourself or wobble. This will speed up your learning and reduce practice time.
Rotate your hips about 90 degrees.
Make sure your back is straight as you step into the round off.
Keep your eyes forward and down.
As you reach your hands out in front of you, mold them into the T position so they’re ready for landing.
Think quickly, you only have a few seconds to complete the entire move.
6. **Bring your legs up.** As your body rolls forward, bring your back leg up over your head while reaching your non-dominant hand closer to the ground. Lift the dominant leg that’s touching the ground, straightening it.
This all happens in one swift motion.
Aim your non-dominant hand to land right next to your dominant hand. You want your forefingers and thumbs to be touching.
As you bring your back leg up, keep your leg straight and strong.
7. **Place your hands on the ground.** Set your non-dominant hand down on the ground next to your dominant hand, with the diamond shape between them.
Make sure your back and hips are straight, feet pointed.
8. **Pull your legs together.** Now that both hands are on the floor supporting your weight, pull your legs together so that they’re touching.
Pull your legs together just before they’re vertical in the air.
Keep your legs high in the air as you pull them together. Don’t lower or tuck them just yet.
9. **Rotate your hips.** With your legs pulled together in the air, rotate your hips about 90 degrees. As you do this, your hands will start to come up off the ground. Your feet begin to make their way toward the ground behind you.
You’re positioning yourself to land with both feet on the ground.
Stop rotating when your body is aligned and you’re facing the direction you started from.
You’re doing this as you’re in the air landing, so make your rotation as smooth as possible.
10. **Land on your feet.** Push off with your hands, curving your back a little bit. Land on the ground with both feet at the same time. Bring your arms up over your head, next to your ears.
Push through your shoulders, not your elbows.
When you land, bend your knees a little bit to absorb some of the shock of the landing. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Do-a-Round-Off-in-Gymnastics", "language": "en"} |
How to Play Rugby | Rugby is a complicated, intense game, which consists of 15 players on each team on a field of 100 meters long and 70 meters wide.
The basic rules are not so difficult that you need a lifetime to learn them, however you still need a couple of hours game-time to be able to understand the structure and game-play of Rugby.
The concept of a game of Rugby is simple: two teams try and gain the most points in 80 minutes by trying to score points in the other team's half. The ball can never be passed forward only backwards or perpendicular, a team can only advance by passing or kicking the ball.
Any team can win the ball at any time, this is usually done by the forward pack which consists of 8 players, You also have a Back-line which consists of 7 Players.
The forward pack is made up by Two Props(1 and 3), one Hooker(2), Two Locks(4-5) and Three Loose forwards(6,7,8).
The Back-line is up made up by the Scrum Half(9), Fly-Half(10), Left-wing(11)Inside-center(12), Outside-Center(13), Right-Wing(14) and the Full-Back(15).
The details of the game, however, may need some explaining.
Note: This article is about playing the most common form of rugby, Rugby Union.
1. **Win by scoring more points than your opponent.** Score tries by carrying the ball into Your opponent's try-zone, ( penalty tries can also be awarded from any infringements from the opposing team.) A try is worth 5 points.
When a try is scored an opportunity is given to the scoring team to make a conversion kick which is worth 2 points.
The other way of gaining extra points for Your team is with penalty kicks, this is awarded when a member of the opposing team breaks a rule or if the play of the game is stopped by more than one member of that team. a Penalty kick is worth 3 Points.
The last method of gaining points is with a drop-goal attempt, the ball is played backwards to a back-row player who then attempts to place the ball in between the uprights during ongoing game play, this is also worth 3 points.
2. **The field is cut in half, and at each end is a 10-meter zone known as the "try-zone."** If you get the ball into your opponent's try zone you get 5 points, as well as a chance to attempt a conversion kick for an extra 2 points. The winner is the one who scores the most points in 80 minutes of play.
You have to touch the ball down to score in rugby. That means after you've entered the try zone the ball must be placed on the ground to score.
You can also kick the ball through the uprights during free play (with a drop-kick only) or after the referee awards your team a penalty (place kick) for 3 points.
3. **Understand that the ball can only be thrown backward or sideways.** To score tries, offense teams form big horizontal lines, passing sideways and backward until they expose a hole in the defense and push forward. This is the big rule to remember when playing rugby. You cannot pass the ball forward with your hands or it is an automatic penalty. Whenever passing, you usually pass the ball across your body to get power and throw the ball diagonally to your teammate.
Dropping or bobbling the ball counts as a forward pass if it hits your hands then hits the ground in front of you.
You can, of course, carry the ball forward. However, any passes by the hand cannot be forward.
4. **Kick it forward to pass to yourself or your teammates.** While you cannot ever throw a ball forward, you can kick it forward at any time. Once you kick the ball, any teammate that was behind you when you kicked it can run forward and get the ball without a penalty. Kicks are a great way to surprise a defense, or boot the ball way down the field to get your team out of trouble.
Players can even kick it to themselves, chipping it over an opponent and running around to pick it up.
You cannot kick the ball to a teammate who is already further down the field than you unless you run past them at some point. If a player was behind you at any time after your kick they can touch the ball. If not, they are offside.
5. **Tackle the ball carrier to stop the opponent's attack.** Rugby defense is all about making tackles. You can only hit the player currently holding the ball, and you cannot block or screen the other team or other players. When you tackle an opponent, your goal is to bring them to the ground as quickly as possible, preferably with teammates around to quickly help win the ball. General tackling rules include:
You must tackle someone below shoulder height.
You must wrap your hands around the player, not just spear them with your shoulder.
You cannot pick up and drop players, especially on their head or neck.
Once down, you must return to your feet before trying to win the ball from someone you've tackled.
6. **Form rucks whenever someone gets tackled to keep possession of the ball.** When a player goes down, they must release the ball. From there, either team can fight to win the ball off the ground and take possession. This usually takes place as a "ruck." A ruck is when 1-3 players from each team lock into one another, right above the ball (and tackled player), and push each other back and forth in an attempt to win possession. One player on each team stands behind the ruck and grabs the ball when it appears behind their rucking teammate's back foot. Because the tackled player can put the ball down wherever they want, the team that had the ball first usually controls it. There are a lot of rules and strategy for contesting a ruck, but some basic reminders include:
A ruck is when at least two players lock shoulders above the ball and try and push the opponent away from the ball. You cannot reach in to grab the ball or push off the ground with your hands.
For safety reasons, you must enter a ruck straight up and lock in with the other team. You must be perpendicular to the end line, and your body must be straight over the ball. You cannot run into a ruck diagonally or from the side.
Once a ruck is formed, you must stay behind the back foot of your final teammate until the ball comes out, no matter what team gets it. The entire space of the ruck is a "neutral zone" that no players can enter it.
7. **Form scrums to contest penalty calls.** When a penalty (such as passing it forward) is called for your team, you get several options of restarts, depending on the foul. One of the most common is a scrum, where both teams form into battering rams and connect over the ball. A scrum is essentially a test of strength. In a scrum, 8 players from each team weave themselves together in rows to create a unified mass. The two teams then go head-to-head, each pushing against the other, with a tunnel formed on the ground in between them.
In a scrum, one team throws the ball in the center of the two teams and they push and hook each other to try and win the ball.
Scrums suck all the biggest players to one area of the field, leaving the other seven players with much more free space. If your team wins it, you're often off for a big gain.
Scrums are perhaps the most dangerous aspect of rugby, and you should not try them without a coach and well-trained, athletic players.
8. **Use line-outs to restart the ball after it leaves the sidelines.** If a ball goes out of bounds the referee will call for a line-out. A line-out is like a throw-in in soccer, except the ball must be thrown straight forward. Each team forms a line on the field around the thrower. The team that did not touch the ball last gets to throw it in. They then toss the ball straight in between the two teams, who lift each other up to try and win the ball. The game then restarts as normal.
Teams often use signals and codes to win their own line-outs. Basically, a thrower will signal to their team when they will throw it, and their teammates will hoist a player into the air, out of reach of the other team, to grab the ball quickly.
9. **Recognize the difference between forwards and backs on a team.** Each team is made up of two smaller sections, each with their own positions and strengths. Forwards take part in the scrum, and this is the only real difference between them an backs as far as rules go. However, forwards and backs have evolved their own specialties on the field, making each vital to success:
These are the big guys -- the bruisers and muscle-men who power the scrums and win most of your rucks. Forwards generally take short, powerful runs with the ball, pass less, and do the majority of tackling and defense. Generally thicker and stronger.
The runners and speedsters. Backs form a long diagonal line on offense and pass the ball quickly down the line, to the outside of the field, where they can take on a defender 1v1. On defense they form a wall across the field to prevent enemy backs from breaking through. Generally quicker, backs are good kickers, have solid passing skills, and tons of speed/endurance.
10. **Watch professional rugby to discover complex rules, strategies, and nuance.** Watch local and professional teams’ matches or practices in order to see how the game is played. You can also watch matches on television or recordings such as DVDs. Watching how a game is played in real life or through recordings allows you to see the intricacies of the sport.
There are a lot of small rules, specific situations, and intricacies to rugby that are impossible to learn without playing or watching. Ask questions of fans and/or the referee when confused, and keep learning each game each time you play.
11. **Throw with speed and accuracy by spinning the ball.** A good rugby throw is powerful and quick, which protects your teammate from a nasty tackle as they watch the ball approaching them. Practice throwing to your side, not in front of you. To get a good throw, use both hands and focus on accuracy first, hitting your teammates right in the chest every time. Once you feel accurate you can start working on a professional-looking spin. To throw from the right hand:
Start with the ball horizontally in front of you. Place your right hand on the back third of the ball, so your palm faces down and your thumb towards your target. Place your left hand on the bottom left half of the ball, thumb pointing left.
Bring the ball to your right side, keeping the point of the ball still roughly pointing at your target.
Using your left hand for aim and right for power, bring the ball across your body and towards your target.
As your hands are almost extended, curl your right hand back towards you, spinning the ball.
Release the ball with both hands simultaneously, rotating your wrist completely over on the follow-through. Both arms should be fully extended and pointed at your target, and your arms should stay low, around belly height. the whole time.
12. **Tackle with your whole body, not just your arms.** Tackling is a skill that can be developed over a lifetime, but the basics are simple. You want to let your whole body do the work, not just your arms, to protect yourself and to ensure that you bring the guy down. Practice doing the following steps near simultaneously -- keeping your head up, driving with the shoulder, wrapping your arms, and driving to the ground:
Set up on the balls of your feet. Make sure you are in a good athletic position for the hit -- knees bent, muscles relaxed, on your toes.
Keep your head up and aim for their thighs/stomach. Keep your head up to see contact coming and line up the hit. This is a crucial step for safety.
Aim to make contact with your shoulder right at their upper thigh. Slide your head next to their butt to keep it safe and drive in with your shoulder.
Wrap your arms around their thighs and pull back. Pull their thighs into a deep hug -- this causes them to lose balance easily.
Drive with your legs to bring them down. Once you've got your head in place and your arms wrapped, you want to push with your legs to bring them down.
13. **Attack rucks to shift the balance of momentum in the game** A ruck is your regular chance to keep or steal possession, and a good rucker is an invaluable asset on the team. If you see a teammate go down with the ball and you're nearby, try and be the first one in the ruck. Set one foot over the ball so that it is underneath you, then lean down into a low athletic position. When you've made contact with someone, win rucks using strength and leverage:
Get underneath the opponent and push up and out. If you can get your shoulders or head under their chest, you can push them up to throw them off balance, then back to remove them from the ruck.
Push teammates from behind to win contested rucks. If it looks like your team needs a boost, push your ruck through like a minor-scrum. Remember, however, that committing more than 2-3 people to a ruck leaves a lot of holes in the defense if you lose.
Keep your feet moving through the ruck. To really crush rucks, chop your feet and push forward with every step. Imagine running straight through the player to the other side. This is called "clearing" a ruck, and it opens up a lot of space. If you're on defense and you can clear a ruck, even if you can't win the ball immediately, you'll throw the other team into disarray.
14. **Always be in a position of support for teammates.** Rugby is not an individually dominated sport. Even the best player will be unable to do anything without the support of teammates, as there are very few times a solo athlete has space or time to make a play themselves. On both defense and offense you should be in the best possible place to support your teammates, no matter what:
On defense, you need to be in a horizontal line with your teammates, sliding left and right to close up any holes the opponent might try to push through. Once a teammate makes a tackle, you should either jump in the ruck if it is open or winnable or slide to either side of the teammate to make sure the other team doesn't exploit the gap while he is down from the tackle,
On offense, you need to spread out, forcing the other team to cover many angles. When a teammate is running, make sure you are always behind them and they have 1-2 people in passing range. If they get tackled, they may try a quick pass to you as they go down, leaving you plenty of time to run.
15. **Find a large, flat field.** Rugby can be played in any large field, so long as it is relatively flat and evenly sized. The size of the field will largely depend upon how seriously you intend to play. If you wish to simply play the game with a few friends, a local park with any large field may be enough. However, if you wish to play a proper match, you will need a field with two uprights for the extra point. Contact your local Parks and Recreation department or a local rugby club to find out about proper fields in your area.
As long as you can mark out try-zones for each team, any rectangular patch of grass should be fine.
Though the dimensions are slightly different, an American football field can fill in for a rugby field in a pinch.
16. **Form two even teams of players.** There are three commonly played forms of rugby, where the biggest difference is in the number of players. Real games have 15, 10, or 7 players on each team, but you can play with as many players as you want if you're just with friends. Each player should have:
Athletic shoes, preferably with cleats in the bottom.
Light, breathable clothing.
Mouth guards and/or head protection, if desired.
Water.
17. **Decide which forwards will play which positions in the scrum.** Forwards are generally placed in position based on the scrum, and their positions does not necessarily impact where they will be during the rest of the game. What matters most is your scrum position:
The first row contains three players: the loose head prop and the tight head prop, who grip the hooker in between them.The role of the hooker is to gain possession of the ball during scrums and usually throw the ball in at line-outs. The role of the loose and tight head props is to support the hooker during scrums, support other players during line-outs and provide strength during rucks and mauls. The props are your two biggest players.
The second row consists of two locks. These are the tallest players in the team and are generally used in line-outs to gain possession of the ball. They drive their shoulders into the props and are the engines of your scrums and rucks.
. The back row of forwards consists of three players: two flankers and the eight-man. They clasp onto the two sides and back and control the direction of the scrum, as well as the ball if it squeezes out. Generally these three are your fastest forwards, as they can quickly dart off the scrum when play restarts.
18. **Build up your line of backs based on speed and ball handling ability.** Backs need to be good with their hands, and the best players need to be the first ones touching the ball. To visualize your back line, imagine the ball on the right side of the field. Each player will be 10-15 feet diagonally to the left of the other, starting with the scrum-half:
They start the ball from a ruck or scrum, pulling it out and determining the first player to get the ball. They must be light, small, and have considerable endurance to reach every ruck or scrum first. Most importantly, they need to see the whole field and distribute the ball accordingly.
The quarterback for the backs. They run most of the kicking and run plays, like skipping a pass or fake passes, to try and break down the opponent's defense.
There are two of them, and they are good overall players who can tackle well on defense, run and pass well in the middle, and kick if need be. They get the ball often and challenge the opponent's back line.
Two wings that stay on each side-line, these are usually the fastest players. Your goal is to get them the ball on the outside, where they can hopefully outrun the opponents wing for massive gains.
She/he sits 15 meters or so behind the line, ready to get an opponent's kick, make a last-second tackle, or sprint forward to unexpectedly join the offense and overload a team. Must be versatile, able to kick and catch, and fast.
19. **Designate a referee to enforce penalties.** There are several ways in which a penalty may be earned, and it is impossible to play the game and keep an eye out for every infraction. Minor infractions will likely result in a scrum being awarded to the other team. Others may cause a referee to take more serious action, giving a penalty kick, a "back ten" (when the team gets 10 meters to run the ball for free), or removing a player for some time.
Common offenses include incorrect tackling, collapsing a scrum or ruck by leaving your feet, holding the ball when on the ground, and entering rucks incorrectly.
The team awarded the penalty has several options. They can take a kick or punt, which will allow them to gain field position. They can take a penalty kick at the uprights for a chance at 3 points, or they can take a scrum, all in the location of the penalty.
20. **Warm up your whole body before playing to avoid dangerous injuries.** A game of rugby is physically intense, and you're incredibly prone to injury if you don't prepare. A good warm-up increases blood flow and prepares your muscles for the beating to come. A good, simple warm up to start with would include:
Running is an excellent way to warm up for rigorous physical activity. Begin by walking briskly for 5 minutes, followed by 10 minutes of light jogging to prepare yourself for running.
Run with high knees, kick your ankle with your heel with each step, do some lunges, jump in place, swing your arms, and skip. These exaggerated, mobile stretches loosen your muscles more effectively than static stretching.
Pass with a partner, take some kicks, and do some light rucking. Get used to rugby specific actions, even tackling at half-speed. Your forwards should do some practice scrums and lineouts, and your backs should get used to passing in a line.
Hydration is essential in physical activity. In order to combat the loss of and increased use of water during exercise, it is important to stay well hydrated throughout the day but especially right before activity. The other essential nutrients used and expelled by your body during exercise are salt and potassium, eating lean meats, fruits, vegetables, and sports drinks/food.
21. **Start the game with a kickoff.** This is traditionally started by a coin toss, in order to determine which team will have first possession of the ball. You can toss coins or decide who starts in some other manner. Positioned at the center of the field, the team which has first possession will then kick the ball towards the opposition.
Most rules state that this must be a drop-kick. It needs to go 10-meters before the ball can be played.
If you are on the kicking team, you cannot pass the kicker until the ball has left his foot.
After your team scores a try, the other team must kick it off to you again. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Play-Rugby", "language": "en"} |
How to Plan a Study Day | As a student, juggling study time with your other priorities can be a real challenge. However, successful students know the importance of planning a study day, which can help you retain the necessary information in an effective, organized way.
1. **Set priorities.** It is easy to become overwhelmed when studying, especially when you have a very limited amount of time. Determine study topics in highest need of studying and in least need of studying.
Create a study checklist. Make a column listing the reading, assignments, lecture notes and handouts that were covered in class. Next, highlight the areas where you are the weakest. In addition, highlight areas that received the most attention during instruction.
Identify areas in your notes where you have vague or insufficient information. Review a classmate’s notes to help fill in these gaps.
Setting priorities are important, but be sure to not over prepare. Avoid trying to study all of the material covered in class. Your instructor will most likely test you on the most important ideas and concepts, so focus your attention on this.
2. **Choose your study area wisely.** Where you study is as important as what you study. You need to study in a place that is free from distractions and conducive to learning.
Choose a place to study that is free from TV or computer distractions. Also, don’t study around people who will distract you with off topic conversation. Consider studying at quiet places such as a library, coffee shop, or on campus study lounge.
Sit in a straight back chair where you can maintain good posture and that isn’t too relaxing to avoid possibly falling asleep.
Lighting and temperature are important too, so choose a well-lit area with cooler temperatures. It is difficult to focus when studying in a place that’s too hot.
3. **Gather everything you need.** Make sure you are adequately prepared for studying by having all of your necessary resources and materials. This will prevent you from having to search for these things and wasting precious study time.
Bring all necessary textbooks, calculators, notes, and writing utensils such as highlighters, pens and pencils. Bring along some music if you find that helps you when studying.
Consider using only paper-based resources and materials and leaving your laptop and other electronic devices behind. It is too tempting to become distracted with emails, social media, and online games.
4. **Map out your time.** You need a plan for how you will use your study time. Determine the amount of time you will spend studying each specific subject. Next, determine the topics that you will study, and split the time accordingly.
For example, maybe you are devoting two hours to study for an English class. You might want to devote 30 minutes to studying grammar, 30 minutes to studying literature, and one hour to writing topics.
Study the most difficult subjects and topics at the time you are most alert and attentive. The easier subjects won’t require as much energy.
5. **Take breaks.** Your brain needs time to process and rejuvenate when obtaining a significant amount of information. Avoid studying for longer than 2 hours at a time without taking a break. Ideally, take short 5-minute breaks after each hour of studying and longer breaks after longer stretches of studying.
Plan to take a break for a certain amount of time and stick to that schedule. If you don’t, you may lose focus.
For example, if you plan on studying for 6 hours, take a 30 minute break at the halfway point.
Reward yourself during breaks. Grab a quick snack during your short 5-minute breaks, and do something enjoyable during your longer break. You’ve earned it.
6. **Stay committed.** There are probably a lot more things you would like to do instead of studying. However, honor your study time by setting strict time limits and sticking to them.
Set an alarm or alert to help you keep track of time. You can also simply write the times down and post a list where it is easily visible.
7. **Create an outline.** An outline is a useful way of focusing your attention on just the most important information. With an outline, you capture only the most important words, thus allowing you to retain what matters the most.
If you’re doing a literary or rhetorical analysis or revising your own work, create a reverse outline. Make 2 columns and put the topic of each paragraph on the left-hand side. Briefly explain how the paragraph pertains to the focus or argument of the text on the right-hand side.
When creating an outline, make sure to put the information in your own words. This will make the information more meaningful and easier to recall. If you are copying someone else’s outline, also use your own words. Otherwise, you are likely to forget the information.
8. **Rewrite your notes.** It might seem like a waste of time, but rewriting your notes helps you to retain information. Why? The brain processes writing as a top priority, therefore allowing you to retain more information.
Like outlining, make sure you take notes using your own words as well. Also, try and make connections to the information in your notes. For example, connect what you’ve read to something in your own life or to something you’ve read before.
9. **Use memory games (mnemonic devices).** Remember how you used the sentence “every good boy deserves fun (or fudge)” to learn the notes EGBDF in music class? This type of mnemonic device and many others are useful in retaining information while studying.
Create acronyms as a way of retaining information. For example, the acronym H.O.M.E.S is used to remember the 5 Great Lakes (Huron, Ontario, Michigan, Erie, Superior).
Use word and picture associations to recall what you study to connect new words and definitions to words and images that you can easily recall.For example, if you wanted to remember the definition of a waxing moon, you might picture yourself waxing your car, which increases the car’s shine. Therefore, a waxing moon is a moon whose illuminated surface increases.
10. **Engage your senses.** You probably recognize that you have a preferred way of learning. For example, you might prefer auditory learning activities such as listening to a lecture, or perhaps you prefer visual activities such as reading notes. However, the more senses you involve in learning, the more information you will retain.
When reviewing a concept, try to incorporate reading, writing, listening, and speaking throughout your study time. For example, if you were reviewing the parts of the body, you would not only read the definition and function of each part, but also draw a diagram and discuss the importance of each part with a study partner.
11. **Create study flashcards.** Flashcards are an easy to make and an effective method for recalling and retaining information. They are also easily portable, so you can take them with you to review at anytime you want.
Create term flashcards by placing the term on one side and the definition on the other side. For math flashcards, write the math problem on one side with examples on the other. To study an illustration, on one side draw a picture with an arrow pointing to the area of focus, and the answer on the other side.
12. **Study with others.** Do you ever notice how more motivated you feel when exercising with others? Oftentimes, studying with others can be a morale booster as well. Be sure to have a clear plan when working with a study group to maximize its benefits.
Ideally, keep your study group to about 3 to 6 people. Choose academically conscientious group members who have a track of record of focusing in class, taking notes, and performing well on exams.
Be sure to set some group ground rules and expectations that all group members agree on. Also, set clear goals and objectives to help your study group remain focused.
As a group, determine the structure of your study session. Decide how much time you will study and how much time will be devoted to various tasks. Two to three hours should be sufficient.
Spend the first half of your study session clearing up any confusion or misunderstandings that individual group members have about the material. This will allow for other group members to clarify any problems or misconceptions.
To clarify misunderstandings of specific study questions, check to make sure group members understand what the question is asking, the concepts being addressed in the question, and the steps taken to solve the problem.
13. **Remind yourself of your goals.** Don’t forget to see the forest through the trees. Your goal for studying extends well beyond passing the exam or test. Your long-term goal is to graduate, or land that dream job, or to get the certification necessary for that promotion you’ve always wanted. Keeping the ultimate goal in mind will help you to remain focused.
Use the Pomodoro technique to assist you in breaking down your work into manageable chunks so you stay motivated. Do this by setting a timer for 25 minutes to complete a chunk of work, and then taking a break right afterwards. This way, you have a chance to frequently celebrate these mini successes.
14. **Exercise with friends.** Spending an entire day of studying without engaging in some physical activity is a sure way to go stir crazy! You can avoid this dilemma by scheduling some time to exercise with some friends.
Schedule an hour in your study day to meet up with friends for some swimming, biking, or playing basketball. Not only will this get you up and moving, but it also gives you some much-needed time to socialize. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Plan-a-Study-Day", "language": "en"} |
How to Cook Herring | You've probably seen pickled or cured herring, but might not know how to cook this popular fish. For an easy, flavorful dinner, mix together an herb filling and stuff the fillets with it. Set the stuffed herrings over sautéed onions and bake them until they're golden. You can also grill the herrings over high heat and serve them with a quick butter and vinegar sauce. If you prefer a crispy fish, coat the herring in breadcrumbs and fry them in a little butter.
1. **Preheat the oven and clean the herring.** Turn on the oven to 450 °F (232 °C). Take 6 herring and use the blunt side of a knife to rub against the scales. The scales should flake and fall off. Slice each herring from its anal fin up towards its head. Use a small spoon to scoop out the guts of the fish and discard them. Rinse the herring.
Most herring fillets are sold with the heads already removed. If your herring still have heads, use a sharp knife to cut them off.
2. **Sauté the onion over medium heat.** Set a skillet on the stove and put 2 tablespoons (28 g) of the butter into it. Turn the heat to medium and add 1 chopped onion. Stir and sauté the onion for about 7 minutes so it becomes soft.
3. **Stir together the herb filling.** Mince 2 cloves of garlic and 1 shallot. Place the garlic and shallot in a mixing bowl along with ½ cup (15 g) of chopped fresh herbs. Stir the mixture until the herbs are evenly distributed.
You can use a variety of herbs for a richer flavor. Try mixing dill, mint, cilantro, rosemary, parsley, chives, or thyme.
4. **Spread the sautéed onion in a baking dish with lemon slices.** Transfer the sautéed onions to the bottom of a large baking dish. Spread the onions evenly. Slice 2 lemons and place half of the slices over the onions.
5. **Stuff the herring with the herbed filling.** Hold a cleaned herring in the palm of one hand and use a spoon to stuff the herbed filling into it. Fill each of the herrings until you've used all of the herbed filling.
6. **Arrange and season the herring in the dish.** Lay each stuffed herring on top of the onions in your baking dish. Sprinkle salt and pepper according to your taste over the fish. Melt the last 2 tablespoons (28 g) of butter and drizzle it over the herring. Arrange the rest of the lemon slices on top.
7. **Bake the herring for 20 minutes.** Put the dish of herring in the preheated oven and bake the fish for 20 minutes with the lid off. The fish should be completely heated throughout. Consider serving the fish with boiled new potatoes or rice.
Avoid storing leftover baked herring because the stuffing will become soggy.
8. **Heat the grill to high heat.** If you're using a gas grill, turn it on to high heat. If you're using a charcoal grill, prepare a chimney full of briquettes. Dump the hot, ashy coals into the center of the grill's grate.
9. **Oil and season the herring.** Get out eight 3-ounce (75 g) herring fillets and brush them with 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of sunflower or vegetable oil. The oil will prevent them from sticking to the grill. Sprinkle a little salt and pepper over the fish according to your taste.
10. **Lay the herring on the grill and cook the fish for 2 to 3 minutes.** Place the herring fillets on the hot grill grate so the skin is facing up. Put the lid on the grill and cook the fish until it's completely cooked throughout. This should take 2 to 3 minutes.
11. **Heat a cider vinegar and butter sauce.** While the fish grills, measure 1/4 cup (60 ml) of apple cider vinegar into a small saucepan. Turn the heat to high, so it comes to a boil. Cut 3/4 cup (175 g) of chilled unsalted butter into small pieces and add a few of the pieces at a time to the hot vinegar. Whisk the mixture until the butter melts and becomes a smooth sauce. Season it with salt and pepper according to your taste.
12. **Serve the grilled herring with simple sauce.** Use a fish spatula to lift the grilled fish off of the grill. Place 2 herring fillets on each serving plate and drizzle a few spoonfuls of the simple sauce over the fish. Serve the fish while it's hot.
Consider serving the grilled herring with potato salad or boiled new potatoes.
If you'd like to store the leftover herring in the refrigerator, place it in an airtight container and use it within a few days.
13. **Dry the herring and combine the flour with the breadcrumbs.** Get out 2 herring fillets and pat them dry on both sides using paper towels. Set a shallow plate or bowl on your work surface and measure 1/4 cup (30 g) of flour and 1/4 cup (25 g) of breadcrumbs into it. Stir the flour and breadcrumbs until they're combined.
14. **Coat the herring in the dry mixture and season the fish.** Lay each of the fillets in the dry breadcrumb mixture. Turn the fillets over so they're completely coated with the breadcrumbs. Sprinkle the fish with salt and pepper according to your taste.
15. **Heat butter in a heavy skillet.** Place 2 tablespoons (28 g) of butter into a heavy 10-inch (25-cm) skillet. Melt the butter over medium-high heat until it begins to foam up a little.
16. **Add the herring and cook it for 3 minutes.** Slowly lower the coated herring fillets into the skillet. Cook the herring for 3 minutes without turning or moving the fish.
17. **Turn the herring and cook the fillets for another 3 minutes.** Use a fish spatula or turner to carefully flip both of the fillets over. Let them cook for another 3 minutes. They should be golden brown on both sides.
18. **Serve the crispy fried herring.** Lay a paper towel on a plate and transfer the fried herring to the plate. To serve the fish, consider placing the fillets on a piece of bread. Serve the fish with tartar sauce, sliced red onion, and a wedge of lemon.
Avoid storing leftover fried fish because it will become soggy. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Cook-Herring", "language": "en"} |
How to File a Small Claims Lawsuit in Ohio | In Ohio, each county or municipal court has a small claims division where relatively minor disputes can be resolved quickly and inexpensively. Although you can be represented by an attorney, the simplified procedures and relatively informal nature of the court means most people can handle a small claims case on their own. If you want to file a small claims lawsuit in Ohio, your claim can be for money only, and must total $3,000 or less.
1. **Make a final effort to resolve the dispute.** Depending on the facts of your case, you may want to send a written demand letter to the other party before you file a small claims lawsuit.
Small claims courts don't require you to send this letter or to submit proof that you sent this letter. However, doing so may save you a trip to the courthouse.
In your letter, summarize the basic facts of the dispute, the amount you believe the person or business owes you, and why you believe you are entitled to that money. Provide the person with your contact information and a deadline to respond to your letter before you file your lawsuit in small claims.
Make a copy of your letter before you send it so you have a copy for your records, and mail it using certified mail with returned receipt requested so you know when the person receives your letter.
2. **Make sure you have the right court.** The court in which you file your lawsuit must have jurisdiction over both the subject matter of your case and the person you're suing.
A particular small claims court generally has jurisdiction if the incident that gave rise to your claim occurred in the city or county where the court is located.
The court also has jurisdiction if one or all of the people you want to sue live in the county or the city where the court is located – regardless of where the incident that gave rise to your claim took place. If you're suing a business, the court in the county where the business is located has jurisdiction.
For this reason, it may be that you could file your claim in several different courts. When this is the case, you can choose whichever court is more convenient for you.
If you're unsure about the territorial boundaries of a court's jurisdiction, particularly if there are two courts in relatively close proximity to each other, you should call the clerk's office and ask about that court's territory relative to the address you have for the location where the incident took place or where the person you want to sue lives.
Keep in mind that you can only seek money in small claims court. If you want to sue a person to get a court order for him or her to do something, or stop doing something, you must file your lawsuit in the general court of common pleas. A small claims court cannot, for example, issue a restraining order, or require someone to return property.
3. **Check the statute of limitations.** Ohio state law provides deadlines after which you cannot sue someone to recover damages.
For the most common small claims lawsuits such as personal injury or property damage, the statute of limitations is two years from the date of the incident that gave rise to your claim.
If you're suing someone for breach of a written contract, you may have as long as 15 years from the date of the breach. If it's only an oral contract, you must file suit within six years of the date of the breach.
4. **Get information about the person you want to sue.** If you want to file a claim in small claims court, you must have the correct legal name and address of the person you're suing.
You may sue an individual over the age of 18 or a business, including a corporation, a limited liability company, and certain partnerships, in small claims court.
If you intend to sue a business, you must first determine how the business is organized. You can do this by visiting the Ohio Secretary of State's website or calling the office at 614-466-2655.
You must find out if the person you want to sue is on active military duty. The court will ask about the defendant's military status, and if he or she is currently serving active duty there are particular rules that must be followed to comply with federal law.
Since the court will have to notify the defendant that he or she is being sued, you must have a full legal name and address where notice can be delivered. If the court cannot provide the person you're suing with notice of the claim against him or her, your lawsuit cannot proceed.
5. **Get forms for small claims court.** Each small claims court has fill-in-the-blank forms you can use to file your claim.
If the court in which you plan to file your claim has forms available online for download, it's a good idea to get a copy of these forms ahead of time so you understand the type of information you will need and can find it before you begin.
You also should consider calling the court where you plan to file your claim before you go to find out what the fees are and if any additional documents or information are required.
6. **Gather information about the dispute.** Before you fill out your small claims forms, take a moment to compile any documentation or other evidence you have to support your argument.
If there were any witnesses to the incident that gave rise to your dispute who you would like to call to testify on your behalf, make sure you have their full legal names as well as a phone number and address where they can be served with a subpoena.
Make copies of any documents or other information you plan to file with the court so you have them for your records. You can find out from the court clerk whether you must file originals or can file copies.
7. **Fill out your forms.** You must fill out the forms completely and accurately if you want your claim to be heard in small claims court.
State the nature of your dispute plainly, along with any relevant details or circumstances. Stick to the facts of the case, and attach documents if necessary.
If you're filling out the form by hand rather than typing it, make sure your handwriting is neat and legible.
You must state the amount of your claim. If you want to include interest and reimbursement of court costs, you must state this on your claim form. Keep in mind that these amounts do not go toward the calculation of the $3,000 maximum for small claims.
In addition to the claim form, some courts require a cover sheet or other forms. All of these forms should be included when you file your forms.
Make sure you make copies of your forms before you file them. You'll need a copy to have delivered to the person you're suing as well as an additional copy for your records, since the clerk will keep the originals for the court's files.
8. **File your forms with the clerk.** You must file your forms with the small claims court to initiate your action.
When you file your forms, the clerk will schedule an initial hearing date for your claim. That date will generally be sometime between 15 and 40 days of the date you file your claim.
You generally must pay filing fees when you file your claim, which vary depending on the court in which you file. You should call the clerk's office ahead of time to find out what the fees are, but expect them to be around $100, although they may be less.
If you can't afford the fees, you may be able to have them waived. You must fill out an affidavit disclosing details about your finances, including your income and assets, and whether you receive public benefits. If the court accepts your affidavit, you won't have to pay court fees to file your claim.
Keep in mind that you can add court fees to your claim and have them reimbursed if you win. However, you must specifically state on your claim form that you want reimbursement of court fees.
9. **Have the defendant served.** The person you're suing must have legal notice that you have filed a claim against him or her.
Typically the court will take care of service for you by mailing your claim forms along with a summons to the person or business you're suing using certified mail with return receipt requested. The return receipt constitutes legal proof of service.
Other methods of service include personal service by a sheriff's deputy or private process serving company.
Your filing fees include the cost of one type of service for up to three defendants.
10. **Wait for the defendant's answer.** Some jurisdictions require the defendant to submit a written response to your claim.
If the defendant has any claims against you, he or she may include those in any response. Those claims may be connected to the same incident that gave rise to your claim, or involve an entirely different incident. For example, you may sue your former roommate for unpaid rent and utilities, and he may counterclaim that you damaged some of his personal property.
If the defendant doesn't have any counterclaims, he or she typically is not required to file an answer, but may do so anytime within seven days of the hearing date.
11. **Decide whether you want to use mediation.** Many courts in Ohio have a mediator available to assist you in resolving your dispute amicably without going to trial.
Some courts also may require you attempt mediation before you have a court hearing. If mediation is required, the court clerk will let you know when you file your claim.
The mediation hearing is even less formal than a small claims court hearing, and the mediator works with you and the defendant to reach a compromise on the claim.
The proceedings of a mediation hearing are confidential, whereas if you go to court the proceedings will be a matter of public record.
If you settle your claim before the hearing is settled, whether through mediation or independently, you must provide the court with written notice that the case has been settled. The court will enter the settlement in the case's file and dismiss the case.
Since many courts offer mediation services for free, you may want to consider using a mediator before you file your claim. You can always file a claim after the session if you aren't able to reach a settlement.
12. **Prepare your witnesses.** If you plan on calling witnesses to testify on your behalf, you should make sure they understand why you're asking them to testify and the types of questions you will ask them.
Be sure to talk to them and make sure they're willing to appear and testify for you. A witness you force to come when they don't want to be there may do you more harm than good.
Take time to find out what each witness knows and how he or she will respond to questions. Generally, you don't want to ask a witness questions at a hearing if you don't know what the answer will be.
Keep in mind that the person you're suing also will be able to ask questions to any witness you call to the stand You may want to brainstorm questions the defendant might ask and discuss how your witness might answer.
Sometimes a witness may be unwilling to testify unless required to do so, or may need proof that his or her presence is required to have an absence from work excused. In these situations you can ask the clerk to issue a subpoena. Make sure you have the correct name and address where the subpoena can be delivered.
13. **Organize your evidence.** To prepare for your hearing, make sure you have all your evidence together and have arranged it so you can find what you need easily and with minimal disruption to the court.
Write an outline of the events that led to your dispute with the defendant so you have a cohesive statement to present to the court. Then you can organize your facts and evidence in the chronological order that the events unfolded.
Check with the court clerk before your hearing date to find out how many copies you'll need of each document you plan to present as evidence. Typically you must have at least one copy for the magistrate and one copy for the defendant, plus a copy for yourself.
Make sure everything you intend to enter as evidence is allowed by the court. Some types of evidence such as affidavits from witnesses are not allowed. Rather than presenting an affidavit, the court generally prefers witnesses to be present in the courtroom and give live testimony so they can be cross-examined by the other side.
Check with your witnesses shortly before the hearing to make sure they will be there and know where the hearing will be held. You may want to make arrangements to meet your witnesses at a central location the morning of the hearing and travel to the courthouse together.
14. **Appear on your hearing date.** Make sure you arrive at the courthouse at least 30 minutes early so you have time to go through security and find the courtroom where your hearing will be held.
Keep in mind that if you don't appear on your hearing date, your claim will be dismissed, regardless of how strong your arguments are and how much evidence you have.
On the other hand, if the defendant does not appear, you may win your claim by default. However, you still will have to prove to the court that you're entitled to the specific amount of money you listed in your claim.
Your case likely will be one of many being heard by the magistrate that day, so take a seat in the court's gallery and wait until your name is called before you approach the front of the courtroom.
Make sure you dress in clean, neat clothing that is relatively conservative. While you don't have to wear a suit, extremely casual clothing such as tank tops or flip flops are not appropriate for court.
15. **Present your case.** Since you initiated the claim, the magistrate typically will call upon you to talk about the claim first.
Using the outline you prepared, tell the magistrate the facts of your case in a brief and organized way. As you reach points where you have evidence or witnesses, you can enter those as evidence. Then proceed to your next point.
While you present your case, speak only to the magistrate – don't speak directly to the defendant or get into an argument with him or her. The magistrate will understand if you are nervous, but try to speak slowly and clearly.
If the magistrate asks you any questions, stop what you're saying and answer the question as completely as you can.
16. **Listen to the other side.** After you've finished presenting your case, the person you're suing will have the opportunity to present his or her defense.
The defendant may present facts or statements with which you disagree. He or she may even lie. It's important that you don't interrupt him or her, argue, or lose your temper. As long as you have solid evidence of your claim, the magistrate will be able to tell who is in the right.
If the defendant has any witnesses, you will have the opportunity to cross-examine them. Pay attention to the testimony and take notes if anything strikes you as important and you want to ask questions about it, but don't interrupt the defendant's questioning of his or her own witnesses.
17. **Receive the magistrate's decision.** When both sides have concluded their presentations, the magistrate will make a ruling regarding whether you are entitled to the money you've claimed.
The magistrate may make his or her decision immediately after the hearing has concluded, or may choose to look over the evidence and paperwork submitted and issue a written decision later. In that case, you'll be notified by the court when the decision has been entered.
If the magistrate rules in your favor, you must collect your judgment from the defendant. The clerk will have forms available that you can fill out to begin collection proceedings.
If the magistrate decides against you, or if you disagree with any aspects of the ruling, you have 14 days after the decision is entered to file a written objection. The clerk has forms you can fill out to object to the magistrate's ruling. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/File-a-Small-Claims-Lawsuit-in-Ohio", "language": "en"} |
How to Read a Galileo Thermometer | Galileo thermometers are glass tubes filled with floating colorful spheres. They’re based on Galileo Galilei’s invention, the thermoscope. Changing temperatures cause the colorful orbs to either sink or float inside the glass tube. You can tell the temperature by reading the medallion on the middle floating sphere, if there are clusters of spheres at the top and the bottom of the tube, or with a few other tricks, depending on the configuration of the spheres.
1. **Identify the temperature stamped onto each medallion.** The thermometer consists of a glass tube filled with a clear liquid, in which colored glass spheres float. Each sphere has a metal medallion hanging from it. The medallions are different weights, which makes the spheres float or sink different amounts.
Look closely at each metal medallion. You will see a temperature engraved onto it.
Different Galileo thermometers have different ranges of temperatures that they can report. For example, many have a range of 60 °F (16 °C) to 100 °F (38 °C) and won't tell you the temperature if it's higher or lower than those values.
2. **Note that the spheres sink when it's hot out and float when it’s cool.** The Galileo thermometer works because of the principle of buoyancy, which states that objects that are denser than their surroundings sink, and objects that are less dense than their surroundings float. The temperature surrounding the thermometer will make the liquid in the thermometer more dense as it cools, or less dense as it heats up. The spheres will sink when the temperature is hot, and float when the temperature is cool.
The spheres also contain liquid, but it changes density much less rapidly than the clear liquid in the thermometer, so it isn’t affected by the temperature change.
The spheres are different colors just to look beautiful.
3. **Hang the thermometer from a hook to find out the air temperature.** You can hang the thermometer inside or outside. The key is to not hold the thermometer in your hands because your hands will warm it up and give a skewed reading. The spheres in the thermometer take a few minutes to float to the correct places.
Keep in mind that Galileo thermometers are not super precise. They’ll be able to tell you roughly the temperature of the room, within 4 °F (−16 °C). Their main benefit is that they're beautiful, with all those floating glass spheres.
4. **Place the thermometer in a beaker of water to test the water temperature.** This is a good way to demonstrate using the thermometer, especially if you’re doing it in a classroom. Full a big beaker with water that’s either colder or warmer than the ambient temperature of the room. Then put in the Galileo thermometer.
Using a beaker of water is great for a classroom demonstration because the temperature change between the air and the water makes for a dramatic show.
5. **Read the temperature of the sphere floating in the middle of the tube if there is one.** Sometimes a cluster of spheres floats by the top of the tube, and a cluster sinks to the bottom, while one sphere hangs in the middle. If that’s the case, read the temperature tag on the middle sphere.
This is the most common scenario.
6. **Average the lowest and highest spheres if there isn't one in the middle.** In some cases, there will be 2 groups of spheres hanging out, 1 in the top of the tube and 1 in the bottom. If that’s the case, read the temperature of the lowest sphere in the top group and the highest sphere in the bottom group. Take the average by adding them together and dividing by 2. That’s your temperature.
For example, if one sphere says 72 and one says 68, your average temperature would be 70.
7. **Mark the temperature as colder than the highest sphere if they all float.** When the outside temperature is quite cold, all of the spheres will float toward the top of the tube. Read the temperature on the highest of the floating spheres. The ambient temperature is colder than that reading.
The spheres float because the liquid inside the tube becomes denser than the spheres.
8. **Note that the temperature is hotter than the lowest sphere if they all sink.** The Galileo thermometer doesn’t measure accurately at really high temperatures. All the spheres will sink toward the bottom of the tube, and all you’ll know is that the temperature is hotter than the one on the medallion of the lowest sphere.
The spheres sink in high temperatures because as the liquid in the tube heats up, it becomes less dense than the spheres. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Read-a-Galileo-Thermometer", "language": "en"} |
How to Remove Static from Polyester Clothes | Polyester is a common synthetic material used to make durable, strong, and long-lasting fabrics. Many clothes and home goods like blankets, sheets, and duvets are made with some percentage of polyester. However, sometimes polyester clothes can carry a static charge, which causes the clothing to cling to your skin. Static electricity is the accumulation of an electrical charge, but it can be prevented or removed by using a variety of methods that neutralize the electrical ions. If you neutralize the static cling using dryer sheets, fabric softeners, wire hangers, lotion, water, or other everyday items, you can reduce static cling in polyester clothing.
1. **Pour fabric softener to the wash.** Polyester clothes can typically be washed at home in warm water unless otherwise specified on the tag. Next time you are washing your polyester garments, add a capful of your favorite fabric softener to help reduce the build-up of static. The fabric softeners are positively charged, so they will bond with the negative charge found in the polyester clothes, which helps balance and neutralize static buildup.
2. **Use a dryer sheet.** The friction created when garments rub together in a dry environment, like a tumble dryer, can cause electrical charges to cling to the fabric, which creates static electricity. To help minimize static, add a couple of dryer sheets to your tumble dryer. As the sheets heat up, they release an oil that lightly coats the polyester clothing. This lubrication helps minimize the amount of friction, which reduces static cling.
Be sure to dry polyester garments at a low temperature.
3. **Add a few dryer balls.** When added to the dryer, wool dryer balls can help clothes dry more quickly and help reduce static cling by preventing the clothes from sticking together. As they move around, the balls help separate the clothing and expose them to the dry air. This separation also reduces friction, thereby minimizing static.
Dryer balls aren’t as effective if they are added to a large load of clothes. Make sure you only add them to small and medium loads so they have room to move around.
Add three large dryer balls per load.
If you don't have a dryer ball, add a tennis ball or two to your tumble dryer to get the same effect.
4. **Hang your clothes to dry.** Skip the dryer all together and air dry your polyester clothes to prevent the buildup of static electricity. Allowing polyester clothing to air dry won’t damage the garments, so clip the garments on a clothes line to dry in the sun, or drape the clothes over a drying rack indoors.
5. **Spray aerosol hairspray onto your garment.** If your polyester garment is holding a static charge, turn the garment inside out. Grab a can of aerosol hairspray and hold it about eight inches away from the polyester garment. Spray the hairspray onto the garment to alleviate the static cling. This helps reintroduce moisture in the fabric, which can help break up static charge.
6. **Moisturize with lotion before wearing a polyester garment.** Dry skin carries a positive charge and polyester carries a negative charge. As your skin rubs against the polyester garment, it creates static electricity. This is common in the winter when skin tends to be drier. Alleviate the charge by moisturizing before getting dressed.
7. **Rub a dryer sheet over your clothes.** Dryer sheets are great for eliminating static in the tumble dryer, but they can also be used to remove static after the clothes have already dried. Grab a dryer sheet and glide it over the polyester garment to remove some of the static cling.
8. **Clip a safety pin along the hem of your polyester clothes.** If you are at the office and your polyester garments are clinging to you, use a safety pin to remove the static buildup. Clip a safety pin inside the lining of your garment along the hem or a seam so you do not damage the clothing. The metal in the pin will act as a grounding device, which neutralizes the static charge in your clothes.
9. **Rub a wire hanger over your clothing.** If you have a wire coat hanger, you can use that to remove static cling. Simply rub the wire hanger over the affected area to break the charge. Like the safety pin, the metal hanger neutralizes the buildup of electrical ions on your clothing, removing the static cling.
If you notice your garment as a buildup of static before putting it on, run a wire hanger over it to remove the charge.
10. **Use water to remove static.** Lightly dampen a washcloth or your hands with water. Glide the washcloth or your damp hands over the garment. The water will neutralize the static charge and remove the cling. Plus, because polyester dries quickly, you won’t have damp clothes for too long.
11. **Touch grounded metal.** If you are out and about and your polyester garment has a static cling, look for a metal pole, pipe, or lamppost that you can safely reach. Simply hold onto the metal pole. The metal will help remove the static charge from your clothing.
12. **Run a humidifier in your home.** A humid environment can help reduce static cling and static shocks. A static charge can be dispelled more quickly when there are more water particles in the air to break it up. Buy a humidifier from your local pharmacy or department store to help eliminate static cling in your polyester garments. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Static-from-Polyester-Clothes", "language": "en"} |
How to Play the Jew's Harp | The Jew’s harp, also known as a mouth harp and jaw harp, is a simple instrument dating back from 4th century BCE. Playing the Jew's harp takes a lot of practice and dedication. The Jew’s harp can be used in a wide variety of folk music, but can also be used in experimental projects.
1. **Position your hand.** Use your non-dominant hand (right hand for lefties) to grip the Jew’s harp. Make a “C” shape with your thumb and index finger. This will be where you hold the frame of the harp. Align the circular portion of the Jew’s harp with your hand’s “C” shape.
The harp is composed of a circular frame and two long arms that secure the reed.
2. **Grip the harp.** Use a light grip with your thumb and index finger around the frame. Make sure that the trigger is facing away from your face. The trigger is the part of the harp that protrudes from the reed in the center.
If your harp is rounder than your grip, use your middle finger and index finger to grip the shaft. Then hold the frame secure by using your thumb.
3. **Position it in your mouth.** Open your teeth about ⅜” apart and insert the arms of the harp against your teeth. Again, position the harp so the reed’s trigger is facing away from your face. The key is to rest the beveled edge of the harp firmly against your teeth. Do not put your teeth on top of the beveled edge. Press the Jew’s harp firmly against your teeth. It is essential, for the sake of your teeth, that you use firm pressure.
If you do not position the harp in the right position, you could chip your tooth.
4. **Curl your lips.** To get a good sound out of the harp, the harp must be touching your teeth. The opening must be clear for the reed to produce tones. Curl your lips slightly over your teeth and onto the frame. Be sure to keep the pathway of the trigger clear.
5. **Practice plucking.** Use your dominate hand to pluck the trigger lightly. It is essential that you do not use a powerful pluck in the beginning. This is when you’re the most susceptible to chipping a tooth. To avoid damaging your teeth, keep a firm pressure between the harp and your teeth. Pluck the trigger inwards or outwards depending on your preference.
An inward pluck is when the trigger is plucked in the direction of your mouth.
An outer pluck is when the trigger is plucked away from your mouth.
Find a comfortable pluck. Some Jew’s harpist use their index finger to pluck while others use their whole hands. Figure out what is comfortable for you. Try plucking a rhythm and repeat that rhythm. This will help you develop your comfortability with plucking.
6. **Open your throat.** To get the most amplified sound out of the Jew’s harp, you must open your throat. It's common to open your throat if you are chugging a liquid. Do this same technique with your throat while playing the Jew’s harp.
7. **Change the shape of your mouth.** Try modifying the shape of your throat. You do this in everyday speech. Imagine you’re saying the vowels: a, e, i, o and u. These shapes will all give you different tones. Practice a consistent pluck while changing the shape of your mouth.
You can reach a higher pitch by widening your mouth. Similarly, you can reach a lower tone by narrowing your mouth.
8. **Move your tongue.** Your tongue also plays a part in altering the sound of a Jew’s harp. Experiment with different positions for your tongue. Try flickering your tongue to the back of your throat for a nice effect.
9. **Modify your breathing.** Different breathing variations will modify your tone. Breathing out while playing will create a loud and buzzy sound. Breathing in will create a softer buzzing sound. Use these techniques as accents. Breathe through your nose during normal play.
10. **Practice your repertoire of sounds.** Continue to experiment with different combinations of the above techniques. Once you begin to feel comfortable with different sounds, try to develop a melody out of the Jew’s harp. It will take a lot of practice to play cohesive melodies on the Jew’s harp.
You won’t be able to play distinct melodies until you’ve mastered all the basics.
Try something experimental on the Jew’s harp. Try whispering words while playing. Play around and try to have fun with it.
11. **Play notes on the harp.** Differentiating notes on purpose is difficult for both players and listeners. The particular note you produce depends on the quality and make of your Jew’s harp. Play notes by playing open and closed sounds. Open sounds are all the sounds you’ve produced thus far. Closed sounds are achieved by closing your throat, or your glottis. Then use air pressure to open your glottis by saying “A.”
This will produce an overtone which is essential for playing different notes.
Use a tuner while you are practicing to see if you are able to hit a perfect note. Then practice the other techniques and adjust your mouth till those sounds create a different note.
Again, playing intentional notes is difficult for the Jew’s harp.
12. **Seek out recordings.** There are plenty of recordings that feature a Jew’s harp. It is typically used in old time folk and country music, but it is native to eastern European folk music. Listen to these popular recordings featuring a Jew’s harp:
We’re Allowed by The Odd Tones
Bumblebees Can Fly by Gorgon Frazier
Mouthing Off by Wayland Harman
13. **Watch videos.** Search through the internet for a wide range of different players with unique styles. Watch the videos with your Jew’s harp in hand to try out new techniques. Videos of other players can inspire you to become a better harpist.
Youtube.com has plenty of videos by pros and amateurs. There are even how to videos that can help improve your sound.
14. **Purchase a good Jew’s harp.** A common reason for a lack in interest in playing a Jew’s harp is playing a cheap harp. The popular Snoopy’s mouth harps may be cheap and the most accessible, but they don’t sound good. Spend an extra ten dollars on a better Jew’s harp.
Some harps are even sold by the key like A, C or D. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Play-the-Jew%27s-Harp", "language": "en"} |
How to Write a Settlement Agreement | A settlement agreement is a legally binding contract meant to resolve a dispute between yourself and another party so you do not have to go through the judicial process (or extend the judicial process if you are already in court). Settlement agreements are powerful documents so you should be careful to draft and execute them with precision and care. In order to create an effective settlement agreement, you will have to understand your state's contract law, contemplate the contract, write the contract, then execute the contract. Follow the steps in this article and adapt where necessary in order to create the best settlement agreement possible.
1. **Decide whether you have the need for a settlement agreement.** A settlement agreement is a legally enforceable contract. They can be used in a variety of situations where two parties are in dispute about something and they wish to compromise on how that dispute will be resolved. A settlement agreement will act as a "release," which means that in exchange for some act (often the payment of money), one person will give up their legal claim against another person.
For example, if your garage is damaged when your neighbor backs into it with their car, you might agree to settle this dispute and release your neighbor from any legal liability if he or she agrees to pay for the repairs to your garage.
Some of the most common situations in which a settlement agreement is utilized include: disputes over damaged property; employment disputes between employers and employees; marriage disputes; and medical malpractice disputes.
2. **Determine whether you have the ability to enter into a settlement agreement.** You will need to decide if you have the legal capacity to enter into a valid contract, which involves knowing what you are getting yourself into by entering into the agreement. A settlement agreement should be in writing. Also, you will want to know what is needed to create a legally binding contract. Those requirements include:
An offer. This is what one party proposes to do, pay, etc.
Acceptance. This is the willingness to be bound by the terms of the offer.
Valid consideration. This is something of value that the promisor receives from the promisee in return for the promise. It can be tangible or any type of benefit. For example, if you offer to sell your car to your brother for $4000 and he accepts, the $4000 is the consideration. To be valid, consideration must be reasonable and agreed on by both parties without coercion.
Mutual assent. Both parties must accept the offer without being forced to do so by coercion or any other means. For example, if you agreed to give a robber all of your money so that he does not shoot you, there is no mutual assent even though there is an offer and acceptance.
A legal purpose.
A settlement agreement must also not be "unconscionable." This means that it cannot be illegal, fraudulent, or criminal. For example, you could not agree to settle a lawsuit in exchange for six pounds of cocaine, because the sale of cocaine is illegal in the United States.
3. **Ensure the terms and provisions you want to put in your contract comply with your state's laws.** If you are unable to determine whether your contractual provisions will comply with state law, you may want to consider hiring or consulting an attorney.
In general, any contract lawyer or lawyer practicing in the field your dispute arises in (e.g., property law, tort law, family law) will be able to help you determine if your settlement agreement is likely to be valid.
4. **Agree on a statement of the dispute.** Both parties are likely to have a differing view of the dispute. Before writing your settlement agreement, you must come to an agreement of the factual terms of the dispute.
A mediator may be helpful in determining this.
5. **Negotiate consideration.** The consideration is what one party is going to receive in return for giving up any possible legal remedy. You will also want to determine how the compensation will be turned over (i.e., all at once or over time).
For example, payment arrangements and logistics should be hammered out before you write the settlement agreement.
6. **Determine whether one party will have to admit liability.** This is likely to be a point of contention in some settlement agreements. Some parties will be willing to settle only if they do not have to admit to liability or wrongdoing. This is very common in corporate settlements.
For example, if you are agreeing to settle with a corporation whose hair dye turned your hair green and made it fall out, the corporation could agree to the settlement agreement as long as the settlement is not construed as admission of fault or wrongdoing on their part.
7. **Negotiate any conditions.** Sometimes, a conditional settlement agreement may be desirable. For example, this is the case where an action must be performed in order to resolve the issue, but that action will take time to complete. It is not usually desirable in situations where something may not be completed by a certain date, such as keeping a trade secret confidential. In this case, you should negotiate an unconditional settlement agreement, which takes effect after a certain number of days.
8. **Negotiate the scope of the release.** You must negotiate the scope of the release in the agreement to determine which claims will be resolved, and whether any future claims are also resolved by this settlement agreement. You can negotiate a provision stating that the settlement agreement applies to all claims arising out of the dispute, whether they are current or not yet realized, or the settlement may resolve just one aspect of a suit or a single claim. This will depend on your needs.
9. **Title the document.** Begin your settlement agreement by titling the document in a way that informs the reader about what the agreement is.
Depending on the case, it may also require a caption or style of the case to be added. For example, if it is part of ongoing litigation, it may need to include the names or identifiers of all plaintiffs, and this information could change as the case develops.
10. **Identify the parties.** You should write a paragraph that introduces the parties to the agreement (who is involved in it) and defines their roles. You should include names and addresses, as well as a statement that the parties named have the capacity and authority to enter the agreement.
The statement may also state that the parties named have the capacity to bind a company or entity, if this applies. For example, if your settlement agreement is with a small business, the small business owner could agree to serve as the binder for his company.
For example, a common introductory paragraph looks like this: "This [Confidential] Settlement Agreement and Release (this “Agreement”) is entered into as of [DATE] by and between (a) [NAME OF PARTY A] (“DEFINE PARTY A”) and (b) [NAME OF PARTY B] (“DEFINE PARTY B”). Collectively, [PARTY A] and [PARTY B] shall be referred to as the “Parties”." When you define the parties, you will describe one party as the one being released from legal liability, and you will describe the other party as the one granting the release.
11. **Provide a description of the dispute.** In this section you will need to describe the "who," "what," "when," "where," and "how" of the dispute. It is important to do this so both parties are in agreement about what specific act is being discussed in the agreement and what is being settled. Without this provision, a court will have a tough time upholding and enforcing your settlement agreement in the event it is breached or you have to get it approved.
If you are settling a medical malpractice dispute, you may write a scenario that explains: who the patient was and who the doctor or doctors were; what happened that caused the dispute, (e.g., the doctor left a sponge in the patient's abdomen after the surgery); when the dispute occurred, (e.g., on March 5, 2014 at approximately 12:15 p.m. while the patient was in surgery); where the dispute occurred (e.g., at the doctor's office, located at a certain address); and how the dispute occurred (e.g., the doctor was not paying attention and forgot about the sponge and the patient found out when they started having pains in their side).
Be as detailed as possible and include any information you may think is relevant to the agreement you are creating.
12. **Include a statement about what one party is going to receive in return for the release of the other party from any and all legal liability.** This section will include the required consideration, which is necessary to spell out in order to have a valid contract.
The type of payments that can be contracted for are wide-ranging and will depend on what the dispute was that led to the settlement agreement you are creating. Compensation could be in the form of money, repairs, replacements, or even promises. Compensation cannot be anything illegal, fraudulent, or criminal.
If you are entering into a settlement agreement as a result of property damage, your provision may state: "Party A agrees to release Party B from liability so long as Party B compensates Party A in the form of $500 in order to repair the broken fence." Also, instead of including a dollar amount, the provision may state that Party B will be required to repair the broken fence his or herself in order to be released from liability.
If you are executing a settlement agreement as a result of something like trespassing, you may include a provision stating Party A agrees to release Party B from liability so long as Party B never trespasses again. You may then include a sentence stating that if Party B does trespass again, the settlement agreement will be null and void and Party A will be free to pursue legal action.
When you are drafting this provision, be sure you are confident in the consideration you are receiving or giving up. Settlements are legally binding contracts and you will likely be stuck with the compensation you agreed to, even if you find out later it is grossly inadequate or extremely over the top. For example, if you agree to compensate someone $500 for the damage you caused to their vehicle, and they later find out the actual cost of repair was $5,000, they will likely be stuck with the $500 you provided and they will not be able to collect more.
13. **Include a statement regarding the scope of the claims to be settled.** During negotiations, you should have determined with the other party whether the settlement agreement will resolve all claims, including unknown and future claims, or whether it will cover only a certain claim. In general, it is advisable to resolve all claims, including unknown and future claims, with your settlement agreement.
You should look to include a provision that looks something like this: "Claimant and Employer hereby mutually release and forever discharge each other and each of their affiliates, subsidiaries, parent corporations and their respective agents, present and former directors, officers, executives, employees, predecessors and/or successors in interest, attorneys, heirs and assigns, from any and all matters, claims, complaints, charges, demands, damages, causes of action, debts, liabilities, controversies, judgments and suits of every kind and nature whatsoever, arising out of the same subject matter or occurrence as this claim/cause of action, as of the date of this Agreement, foreseen or unforeseen, known or unknown, including but not limited to, those arising out of Claimant’s employment with Employer and, if applicable, the termination of such employment." This specific clause is tailored to an employment dispute, but you can change the wording and the parties in order to make it fit your needs.
Not all settlements will resolve any and all claims arising from the dispute. Make sure to negotiate a clear statement of scope.
14. **State the conditions clearly.** Sometimes, a conditional settlement agreement may be desirable. For example, this is the case where an action must be performed in order to resolve the issue, but that action will take time to complete. It is not usually desirable in situations where something may not be completed by a certain date, such as keeping a trade secret confidential. In this case, you should negotiate an unconditional settlement agreement, which takes effect after a certain number of days.
For example, if a contractor you hired ruined your attic through faulty building, a settlement agreement could negotiate your waiving your right to sue conditional on the contractor replacing the attic at no cost and passing a building inspection within one month. If the condition is not met, the settlement agreement is nullified.
You might want to include language such as the following: "All Parties agree and understand that this agreement on behalf of [PARTY A] is subject to approval of the conditions stipulated herein before it can be binding upon the [PARTY B]. Counsel for the Parties agree that they will recommend to approve this agreement and will make his/her best effort to secure that approval and to secure that approval at the earliest reasonable date." Then you would spell out the exact conditions that will satisfy the agreement.
15. **Spell out whether the release will include any admissions of fault or liability.** Oftentimes, when parties are agreeing to settle a dispute through a mutual agreement as opposed to going through the judicial process, the party providing the settlement payment will not want to admit any liability or fault. If you have previously negotiated this, provide a clause, like the one below, that allows the party in the wrong to compensate the other party without having to admit any wrongdoing.
If you plan on including a provision agreeing that the settlement will not include any admissions of fault or liability, you may want to use the following language: "The Parties acknowledge that the Settlement Payment was agreed upon as a compromise and final settlement of disputed claims and that payment of the Settlement Payment is not, and may not be construed as, an admission of liability by [PARTY B] and is not to be construed as an admission that [PARTY B] engaged in any wrongful, tortious or unlawful activity. [PARTY B] specifically disclaims and denies (a) any liability to [PARTY A] and (b) engaging in any wrongful, tortious or unlawful activity."
16. **State whether the settlement agreement will be confidential.** Making your settlement agreement confidential ensures that neither party can discuss or reveal any of the terms of the settlement to the world. This type of provision comes up most in business settlements where one company is often involved in litigation and settlement, and does not want other potential litigants to know the usual terms of their agreements. It may also come up in medical settlements where a doctor wants to restrict the patient's ability to reveal what happened and how much the doctor paid out.
If you wish to include a confidentiality provision, it may look like this: "The terms and conditions of this Agreement are absolutely confidential between the parties and shall not be disclosed to anyone else, except as shall be required by law. Any disclosure in violation of this section shall be deemed a material breach of this Agreement."
17. **Include a provision about the dismissal of any ongoing litigation.** If you are in the middle of litigation when you decide to settle and create a settlement agreement, be sure you include a provision ensuring that both parties will dismiss the litigation and not move forward with it.
If you are in this situation, consider using this language: "[PARTY A] and his/her/its counsel shall take whatever actions are necessary to ensure that the Litigation is dismissed in its entirety as to all defendants named therein, with prejudice and without costs or fees, within [NUMBER] days of his/her/its/their receipt of the Settlement Payment. [PARTY B] will cooperate with [PARTY A] in securing the dismissal of the Litigation as appropriate."
It is highly advisable to have your settlement agreement approved by the court. This constitutes a court order, which is far easier to enforce than a simple contract. Especially if you are not certain whether the other party will abide by the terms of your agreement, you should present the settlement agreement to the court for approval.
18. **Ensure the settlement agreement includes your basic boilerplate provisions.** Towards the end of your contract you will include any standard provisions that are usually found in contracts. Most of these provisions you can simply take from a form contract you find, but make sure you read over them and ensure they say what you want them to. Some of these provisions may include:
Severability provisions;
Modification provisions;
Indemnification provisions;
Choice of law provisions; and
Entire agreement provisions.
19. **Provide an area for signatures.** At the very end of the contract you will make space for all parties to sign the contract. This area should have spaces for your signatures and dates.
20. **Offer your contract to the other party.** Once you have written your settlement agreement you will offer it to the other party. Assuming that your negotiation process went smoothly, both parties should be satisfied. However, the other party has several options once presented with the agreement:
The other party may accept the offer in full. In this instance, you will then sign the contract and start performing.
The other party could reject the offer in full. If this is the case, you will have to write a more acceptable settlement agreement or go to court. If you have already been through negotiation, this is unlikely.
The other party might try to negotiate some of the terms of your settlement agreement. If this happens, you will negotiate with the other party until you both reach an acceptable agreement. You may have to make minor changes to wording or terms to satisfy both parties.
21. **Present your settlement agreement to a judge.** If your settlement agreement is part of litigation (i.e., you have been in court and maybe the judge asked you to try to negotiate a settlement), you may be required to present your settlement agreement to the judge in order to have him or her sign off on it. Even if you are not required to get a court's approval, you may want to think about doing so, if it is a possible option, because a court order is much easier to enforce than a contract.
This option may not be possible if you are settling a dispute outside of the judicial process.
22. **Sign your contract and begin performing.** When you and the other party are satisfied with the document, you will both sign it and begin performance in the manner you both agreed upon. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Write-a-Settlement-Agreement", "language": "en"} |
How to Make Stud Earrings | Stud earrings are quick and easy to make. You can find unique beads, buttons, and charms to create one-of-a-kind stud earrings for yourself, for your friends, or to sell. You will need to get some special materials together before you start, and then you can create all kinds of different stud earrings.
1. **Gather your materials.** Making stud earrings is easy once you have assembled your materials. Check out your local craft store for earring flatbacks, earring décor pieces, and jewelry glue. Before you get started, you will need:
Stud earring flatbacks
Earring décor pieces, such as beads, buttons, pennants, etc.
Jewelry glue (or super glue)
Paper towels
Toothpick
2. **Apply glue to the earring flatback.** Use the toothpick to apply a dot of glue to the stud earring flatback. You don’t need a large amount of glue, just enough to cover the surface of the earring flatback.
Superglue also works if you are in a hurry. If using superglue, then you can apply the earring glue directly onto the earring flatback with the tube. Only use a small amount and be careful not to get any on your skin or other surfaces.
Be sure to work over a paper towel to avoid getting glue onto your table and other surfaces.
3. **Press earring décor onto the earring flatback.** Take the piece you want to mount on the earring back and press it onto the glue on the earring flatback. Hold the pieces firmly together for a minute to give them a chance to bond. Then, place the earring on your paper towel to dry the rest of the way.
If the earring piece you have added has a flat surface, such as a button or flat pennant, then place the earring face down rather than on its side.
4. **Allow glue to dry.** Leave the earrings alone to dry for a few hours or overnight. It is important to let them dry completely before you wear them.
If you used superglue, then your earrings will be ready after just a few minutes. However, you may still want to leave them be for up to an hour to let the glue dry and bond completely.
5. **Look for beads and buttons in craft stores.** Craft stores are the best place to find all kinds of different beads, buttons, and other cool things to make into stud earrings. Look for items that have a flat surface on one side. This will make it much easier to attach the items to the earring flatbacks.
If using buttons for your earrings, you may want to paint over the button with some clear nail polish before gluing it onto the stud flatback. This will make the button shiny if it is a matte button. Let the nail polish dry completely before gluing it onto the stud.
6. **Use clay to make your own designs.** If you want to create your own beads to glue onto the earrings, then clay beads are a great option. Try getting some air drying clay in your local craft store and then shape the clay into bead to glue onto your earring flatbacks. You can use multiple colors of clay to create interesting designs in the clay.
7. **Make a pair of bow earrings.** You can tie ribbon into a bow and then glue the bow onto a flatback for a cute pair of bow earrings. Look for ribbon that is narrow enough to tie into a small bow. Then, tie two equal length pieces of ribbon into bows and glue them onto the earring flatbacks.
8. **Create a pair of holiday themed earrings.** If you want to make a special pair of earrings for a holiday, such as St Patrick’s day, Halloween, or Christmas, then you can look for holiday themed pieces to glue onto stud earring flatbacks. Craft stores are the best place to find these kinds of items.
For example, you could glue a four leaf clover charm onto an earring flatback for St. Patrick’s Day, or glue a jack-o-lantern piece onto an earring flatback for Halloween. You can make yourself a pair of holiday themed stud earrings for every holiday of the year!
9. **Try using old jewelry.** If you don’t want to buy any new beads or other notions to turn into earrings, then you can also convert your old, unwanted jewelry into stud earrings. Try taking apart old necklaces and bracelets and using the beads and charms to create stud earrings.
Be sure that you no longer want the item and that it is something you can break apart before you try to harvest the beads and charms from a piece of jewelry.
Use scissors to cut the string holding the beads and charms together.
Break apart the old jewelry over a bowl or other container to ensure that the beads do not go everywhere. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Stud-Earrings", "language": "en"} |
How to Stop Feather Plucking in Parakeets | Parakeets make great pets, but sometimes they may pluck their feathers. This behavior is not healthy and may be a sign of anxiety or an underlying medical issue. By ruling out medical causes and reducing your parakeet’s stress, you can minimize this undesirable habit and keep your pet happy.
1. **Take your parakeet to an avian veterinarian.** As soon as you notice your parakeet feather plucking, make an appointment with your veterinarian. Write down when the feather plucking started and how long it’s been going on so you can relate the information. Note any changes in your bird’s diet or environment that have accompanied the behavior.
Write down a summary of your bird's living conditions, such as whether they are solo or have a partner, the size of their cage, the cage's location, their toys, their diet, and how much time they spend in the light or the dark.
Look for an avian vet, as they have specialized skills and equipment for running diagnostic tests and treating parakeets.
2. **Give your vet a full medical history of the parakeet.** Sometimes stress from an underlying illness can cause your parakeet to pluck its feathers. Especially if your vet does not know your bird well, have records sent over from any previous vet practices so your doctor has a complete picture of your pet’s health. It can also be helpful to tell the doctor about any ongoing health issues and related medications your parakeet is taking.
3. **Ask for a thyroid test.** Hypothyroidism is a major cause of feather plucking in parakeets. Your vet can test for hypothyroidism by taking a small blood sample from your parakeet’s wing. If it’s found that your pet has an underactive thyroid, it can easily be treated with medication.
Your vet may also recommend blood tests to check your bird's liver and kidney function, as organ failure and the build-up of toxins can cause discomfort, which the bird will try to relieve by plucking.
4. **Tell your vet if the parakeet has been exposed to toxins or allergens.** Parakeets have very sensitive respiratory systems, so even common household substances, such as cleaning solutions, and foods, such as milk, can cause stress and health problems. Let your vet know if your parakeet has been exposed to any toxins or allergens so that they can determine appropriate testing.
Fumes from nonstick pots and pans are toxic to birds, so consider if your bird has been nearby while a nonstick pot or pan was in use.
5. **Discuss your parakeet’s diet.** Not getting enough nutrients can stress your parakeet and cause feather plucking. Many seed-only diets are high in fat and do not provide balanced nutrition. Your vet can advise you on what dietary changes, if any, should be made based on your current feeding regimen.
Try to reserve seeds and nuts for training purposes rather than full meals unless your vet advises otherwise.
6. **Consider behavior-modification medication.** If your parakeet’s feather plucking is severe, it may be causing small tears in its skin. Any cut or tear in the skin has the potential for infection and is a danger to your pet. In cases like these, your vet may advise you to use psychotropic medication to modify your pet’s behavior.
If your parakeet’s feather plucking is aggressive, a protective, cone-shaped collar may be an alternative to medication. Your vet can advise on whether this makes sense for your bird.
7. **Place your parakeet in a separate, dark room for sleep.** Parakeets need 10-12 hours of uninterrupted sleep a night. If your pet is plucking its feathers, simply covering the cage at night may not be enough. Create a dark, cozy environment in a quiet room so your parakeet can de-stress and get enough sleep.
A routine may be comforting for your parakeet. Set a calendar reminder for yourself so you put your pet to bed at the same time every night.
8. **Bathe your parakeet up to once a day.** Parakeets are a small species of parrot, which typically enjoy rain showers in the tropical rainforest. To stimulate your parakeet and help it relax, consider a daily spray bottle bath. Use lukewarm tap water in a spray bottle to gently dampen your parakeet with a fine mist. Take care not to spray the parakeet in the face. If your parakeet enjoys being handled, gently use a clean washcloth to dry it in short strokes in the direction of the feather growth.
Never use soaps or a hair dryer on your parakeet. It is not necessary, and you can irritate its delicate skin.
It is fine to let your parakeet air-dry.
Avoid using cold water to bathe your parakeet, as it may lower your bird’s body temperature too much.
9. **Consider getting your parakeet a cage-mate.** Parakeets are social birds, and feather plucking can result from loneliness or sexual frustration. If you’ve ruled out a medical cause for the feather plucking, it is safe to get another parakeet to keep yours company. Take steps to slowly introduce the two birds through separate cages before placing them in the same space. Always take care to supervise new birds when they are together.
Feather plucking can be hereditary, so it may make sense to get another parakeet of the same sex if you do not wish to breed more parakeets with this issue.
10. **Address any new changes in your typical routine.** Parakeets may become stressed and feather pluck as a result of a change in their environment. Whether it is a new cage, new family member, or new food, think about any environmental changes that accompanied the start of your parakeet’s feather plucking. Where possible, try to revert to your pet’s normal routine to reduce stress.
If stress is unavoidable, try to comfort your pet and help it feel relaxed. If you’ve moved to a new house, for example, make sure your parakeet’s favorite perch and treats are available to help it feel at home.
11. **Rotate toys to stimulate your parakeet’s mind.** Parakeets need mental stimulation just like you, and feather plucking may signal that your pet is bored. Try rotating your parakeet’s toys to keep things interesting. Providing food-puzzle toys can also challenge your parakeet and keep it engaged.
Though it’s not a traditional toy, if you are gone most of the day, your parakeet may enjoy listening to voices on the radio.
12. **Give your parakeet a new view to keep it engaged.** Boredom can be a cause of feather plucking, so experiment with new scenery to excite your pet. Moving your parakeet to a windowsill can provide a fascinating new point of view outside. If it’s chilly by your window, turn on the TV for some digital scenery instead.
Spend time every day talking to, training, or playing with the parakeet in order to give it some social interaction. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Stop-Feather-Plucking-in-Parakeets", "language": "en"} |
How to Teach Vowels | Whether you’re teaching young children, non-native English speakers, or adult learners, vowels can present interesting and unique challenges. To help your students, make sure they understand what a vowel is. Help them as they pronounce and read different types of vowels, such as long and short vowels or dipthongs. Games, songs, and other activities can make the lesson more exciting and educational.
1. **Define the difference between vowels and consonants.** Tell your students that a vowel is a sound made by blowing air out of the mouth without closing your mouth or teeth. Next explain that a consonant is a sound made by moving part of the mouth, lips, tongue, or teeth. Use examples to illustrate the difference.
For example, ask your students to say "e" together. Explain that their mouth, tongue, teeth, and lips did not move. Next ask them to pronounce “b.” Ask them what they did with their mouths. They should respond that they briefly closed their lips.
It may take a few tries or lessons before your students understand the concept, especially if they are young. Keep going and provide plenty of different examples.
2. **Show the 5 vowel letters in the English language.** Write A, E, O, U, and I up on a whiteboard or on a piece of paper. Tell your students that these 5 letters can be combined to pronounce different sounds.
As you show each vowel letter, ask the class or student to repeat after you. This will help teach them how to pronounce each vowel. Keep repeating several times for each vowel, and reinforce the lesson on different days.
3. **Tell the students that y can sometimes act as a vowel.** The letter y can present a challenge for students learning vowels. Sometimes y is a vowel and sometimes it is a consonant.
Y is used as a vowel instead of a long i or long e at the end of words. Boy, pay, fly, busy, many, and my are all good examples of this.
Y is a consonant when it comes at the beginning of words, such as yacht, yellow, or yes.
While y is most often found as a vowel at the end of words, some older words are exceptions. This includes myth and hymn.
4. **Describe what vowel digraphs and diphthongs are.** Vowel digraphs are 2 vowel letters written together. When you pronounce these 2 letters, you make a single vowel sound, called a diphthong. There are 8 diphthongs in the English language, but there are 18 different digraphs to spell them.
The different digraphs are ai, ay, ee, ea, ie, ei, oo, ou, ow, oe, oo, ue, ey, ay, oy, oi, au, and aw.
Show each digraph written on a card with a picture of a word that uses that digraph. For example, show "B" on a card with a picture of a boy. This can help visual learners grasp the lesson.
Digraphs that end in y or w tend to come at the end of words.
Some words have 2 vowels in a row, but these vowels are pronounced separately. These include chaos and violet. Remind your students are not diphthongs because they are not pronounced together as 1 sound.
5. **State that every word in the English language contains at least 1 vowel.** This is helpful if your students are learning how to write or spell. Remind them that they always need a vowel if they’re spelling a word.
6. **Ask the students to repeat the vowel after you.** Do 1 vowel at a time. Start by saying the vowel sound. Ask your students to repeat it after you. Do this 2-3 times or more until your students have mastered the sound before moving onto the next vowel.
Speak slowly as you do this. This is especially important for non-native speakers or adult learners who may not be able to tell the difference between vowels.
Repeat this exercise over several different lessons on different days to reinforce it.
7. **Isolate the vowels in the word.** Say a simple, 1 syllable word. Write it down in front of the students. Ask your students to say only the vowel in the word. Remind them not to use any consonants.
For example, say the word “cat.” Ask your students to say the vowel in the word, which is a short a.
It may take students a few tries before they start doing it on their own. If they’re struggling, help them out by sounding out the word.
It’s important to both write and say the word so that your students start to connect the letter to the sound.
8. **Share examples of short vowels.** Short vowels typically appear at the beginning of words or sometimes in the middle. Give your students words that contain short vowels to help them recognize how they sound. Some great examples include:
Short a: map, pal, cat, dad
Short i: pin, mint, still, fill
Short o: con, lot, dot, hop
Short u: pun, nut, bun, hub
Short e: pen, let, get, send
9. **Introduce long vowels once they have mastered short ones.** To help students remember the difference, tell them that a long vowel states its name. In other words, a long a is pronounced like the letter a, as in lake or tape. Some examples you can use include:
Long a: bake, fake, date, state
Long i: fine, mine, shine
Long o: rope, dote, note
Long u: mute, cute, rude, dune
Long e: me, he, she, theme
10. **State that a “silent” e at the end of a word makes the previous vowel long.** Students may struggle with the difference between words like rat and rate or hop and hope. Make sure they understand that an e at the end of a word means that the first vowel before it becomes long.
Use examples like hat and hate, cap and cape, dot and dote, and ball and bale.
Once the students understand the concept, try giving them the words that don’t end in e, like tap, bat, and far. Ask them how it would be pronounced if you added an e at the end.
11. **Introduce diphthongs 1 at a time.** Since there are so many diphthongs and digraphs, it is best is to teach them separately. Organize diphthongs that sound alike together, and teach them in groups. Teach each group of diphthongs on different days. Show your student examples of the correct usage in each case.
For example, teach oi and oy together. Remind your students that oy is often used at the end of words while oi appears in the middle of words. Use examples like toil and toy or coin and coy to show the difference between these 2 digraphs.
For diphthongs that sound the same, use words and pictures to show their proper usage. For example, help students memorize the difference between meat and meet or read and reed.
12. **Practice using vowel flash cards.** Each card might show a word with the vowel highlighted. Ask the student to say the vowel and then see if they can read the whole word. If they are struggling, ask them to sound out each letter in the word.
Make your own flash cards by writing down words on note cards. Make sure to use both simple vowels, such as cat and dad, and vowel digraphs, like neat and read.
Add pictures to the flashcard to help students remember vocabulary.
You can also buy flashcards at bookstores or anywhere school supplies are sold.
Ask students to practice flash cards in groups. If you have a mixed class, be sure to put non-native speakers in groups with native speakers to help them learn more quickly.
13. **Record students pronouncing each vowel.** Use a phone, computer, or tape recorder. Afterwards, let the student listen to how they sound. If they are struggling, state the correct way to pronounce the vowel and record them again.
For non-native English speakers, let them listen to a recording of a native speaker before listening to their own recording. Ask them what they notice between the native speaker’s vowels and their own.
14. **Ask young students to play a phonics game on a computer or tablet.** These games make learning fun! The program may ask students to recognize the right vowel or to match vowels with similar sounds. Some great games include:
Phonics Hero
Phonics Bloom
Hooked on Phonics
Reading Rockets
15. **Show the students a vowel chart.** A vowel chart groups words according to their vowel sounds. Words with similar vowel sounds are put together in the chart. These words are generally simple words with only 1 or 2 syllables. Find a premade chart online or make your own.
Better yet, ask the students to make their own chart. Give them several words with different vowel sounds. Ask the students to organize the words by their vowel sounds.
16. **Sing songs to help non-native speakers learn pronunciation.** Songs often require that the singer lengthen the vowels as they sing. If you’re teaching an ESL class, singing can help your students master their pronunciation. Some great songs for this exercise include:
Old MacDonald
Row, Row, Row Your Boat
Where is Short E?
Apples and Bananas | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Teach-Vowels", "language": "en"} |
How to Confess to Your Crush | If you have a crush on someone, it can be scary to think about telling them how you feel! However, if you hope to move the relationship to the next level, it's something you'll have to do sooner or later. Luckily, by getting comfortable with your crush and thinking of creative ways to confess how you feel, you help calm your nerves enough to take on the conversation!
1. **Write a note** Notes are one of the most common and effective ways to confess a crush. It tends to be less awkward than in-person confessions, giving you some space and comfort if the person doesn't feel the same way. Write a short note confessing your crush, and pass it to the person in person, or put it in their locker.
Make sure your note is hand-written, legible, and relatively short and to the point. It doesn't need to be clever, or overly romantic. Just cut to the chase: "I've always noticed that you seem really sweet, kind, and cute. I'd love to get to know you better, because I really like you."
When you want to confess to your crush, in person is always better than just over a text, or online. A note is a good balance, because it can be personal, but also gives you some space if you're nervous. If all else fails, having a conversation on the phone, or via Skype is always preferable to texting it.
2. **Introduce the idea without saying anything.** In some cases, your actions can make your crush more obvious than saying, "You know, I really like you." If your crush gradually becomes aware that you like them, it'll be more natural and clear than having to say so bluntly.
Go out of your way to talk to your crush and "accidentally" bump into them in the hallway. Change your routes so you see them regularly, and always make a point of saying hi.
Always make eye-contact. Don't shy away from it, like you're embarrassed. Make eye contact and smile flirtatiously when you see the person you're crushing on.
Show an interest in what they do and what they are like. Try to get to know your crush as a friend first, before you confess anything. It may grow naturally.
3. **Ask for help with something.** One great way to start a conversation or to get your crush talking is to ask some help with something simple. Depending on who your crush is and what they're like, this can get you into some flirtatious conversations.
Ask for help with a homework assignment for a class that you're in together. Start with a compliment, like, "You seem so smart in this class. Do you think we could talk a little sometime about this assignment? I need some help."
Asking for help will make them think respectfully of you, and they'll think you're honest enough to ask for help on something. Also, them helping you will make their overall feelings for you kinder.
Pretend you lost something. "Hey, have you seen a book around here? I just had it..." When your crush helps out, say, "You're so sweet..."
4. **"Accidentally" slip it out to someone else.** In some cases, a rumor started could actually work to your advantage. If you tell a friend that you've got a major crush on someone, and that gets around to a friend of your crush, which gets around to your crush, you might have done the job without really doing anything at all. Then they'll know, and talking will be a lot easier.
Tell a couple of your friends, and don't be embarrassed about it. If it spreads, you can always deny it later. If you never actually said anything, there'll be no evidence that you did anything embarrassing, or got rejected.
Never deny it, if you're really interested in someone. Why would you care if someone knew you liked somebody? That's nothing to be embarrassed about.
5. **Find reasons to invite the person out.** The scariest thing is not knowing how your crush feels about you. It's a lot easier to confess a crush bluntly if you're pretty sure that your crush likes you back. One great way of figuring this out is to invite your crush to some kind of event, like a party, or an after-school activity, which isn't necessarily a date.
Keep an eye out for things your crush might enjoy going to: "I know you really like Marvel movies, so I thought you might want to come see the new Iron Man, because my dad gets extra tickets. I was just curious, thought you might appreciate them."
If your crush gets really excited, or seems really flattered and really wants to go with you, take it as a good sign and take the next step when you get a chance.
6. **Flirt** Be friendly and flirty whenever you get the chance. This can do a whole lot more to communicate a crush than saying so out loud. Talk to your crush the same way you might mess around with your friends, or other people you're comfortable around. Just be yourself.
Tease your crush in a friendly way. Find funny reasons to let your sense of humor out when you talk to them. Instead of saying, "Hey, how are you today?" say something like, "I'm thinking of organizing a jailbreak from school. Need an accomplice. What do you say? In or out?"
There's not much romantic about the phrase, "I have a crush on you." Instead of telling someone, make it obvious that you're interested, so it will become unnecessary to say out loud.
7. **Don't wait.** The best time to confess a crush? Right now. There's no use in waiting, because you're only giving your crush the opportunity to start dating someone else, or find someone else to crush on and forget about you. If you know someone and like them, the perfect time is now.
The only time you should wait is when your crush is currently dating someone. Telling someone that you like them while they're in a relationship can make things kind of complicated. It's best to find someone else to crush on for a while, and return to the person later when they're single.
8. **Try to stay calm and cool.** Despite what you may think, telling someone that you like them shouldn't be a big deal. Even if they don't feel the same way, it'll be such a nice thing to say! Especially if you approach them in a calm and cool way, being gentle and humorous in your approach. Make it easy and try to take the pressure off yourself.
Build yourself up before you do it. Look in the mirror and say, "I got this. I'm a cool person my crush should want to be with." Then go put yourself out there.
Look your best on the day you decide to do it. Wear clean, stylish clothes that fit you well and flatter you, and make sure you're fresh-breathed and clean-haired.
9. **Introduce yourself, if necessary.** If you don't know your crush very well, it can be kind of difficult to confess a crush. The last thing you want to do is to take the risk of saying so and having them say, "Wait, who are you?" If you're not sure whether or not the person knows you, go up to them and introduce yourself.
It doesn't have to be complicated: "Hey, I don't know if you know me real well. We're in the same grade, I think we had Mr. Robinson's class last year? Well, I've wanted to tell you something for a while..."
10. **Talk one-on-one, in person.** The best way to have this conversation is in private. It's important that both of you feel as comfortable and calm as possible, to avoid making this a super-big-deal, but it's also good to have a little privacy so it's less embarrassing.
Passing between class periods can be a great time to catch someone really quickly. Right after class or when you're leaving the same class is a good time, too. Or, you could try to sit together on the bus. Just hang back and say, "Hey, can I talk to you for a minute?"
Never go up to a crush while they're in a big group, or try to confess in the middle of the lunch room while everyone can hear you. It can be really awkward if it doesn't end up going well. It's a private conversation, so do it one-one-one.
11. **Have a specific date or event in mind to follow up with.** If you say, "I like you" and your crush says, "I like you too," then what? Are you just going to say, "Well....cool." No! It's important to have a specific date in mind so you can follow up.
If a dance is coming up, say, "Cool, I hoped maybe we could go to the dance together. Would you like to?" If there's nothing school related, or you're not in school, say, "I hoped we could get a bite to eat sometime. Want to go for pizza this Friday? Say around 7?"
In some cases, it might be better to not rush it. Don't expect much of an answer if you tell someone that you like them. They may want to think about it for a while. That's a good thing. Don't worry about waiting.
12. **Cut to the chase.** The big moment doesn't have to be a big deal. There's no point in making it complicated, or super-creative, when the content is "I like you." Just introduce yourself, smile, and say, "You know, I've wanted to say this for a long time. I've always noticed you, and you seem really cute and sweet. I find myself thinking about you. I like you a lot."
Don't follow a "script" when you try to talk. Lots of people who feel awkward in this situation think it will be better if they're reading from a script, but that'll just make you sound like a robot. Talk naturally, as if you were talking to one of your oldest friends.
13. **Don't worry about rejection.** You know what? It happens. It's happened to everyone. Being rejected might sting a little at first, but it's a whole lot better than wondering what might have happened if you'd have said something, but didn't. You'll grow up, you'll move on, and so will your crush. Just get out there and go for it.
If you get rejected, just smile and say, "Well, I'm glad to know at least. Have a good rest of your week." Never complain, scoff, or do anything dramatic. Even if you're feeling upset, at least you know now and can move on.
14. **Befriend them online first, if you haven't already.** One good way to do a little research and get to know someone before you confess a crush is to be friends on Facebook, or follow them on Twitter. If you're waiting, stop waiting and reach out online first to make contact. Having a couple of online chats can help break the ice when you finally talk in person.
To get a conversation started when you're in person, you can bring stuff up that you already talked about online, or reference something that everyone saw on Facebook that day. Good ice-breaker.
15. **Make sure your crush isn't seeing anyone.** One of the most important things to find out before you confess a crush is whether or not your crush is currently seeing anyone. If they are, it's probably a good idea to hang back, because you don't want to make things over-complicated for someone that you like.
Online is an easy way to check, or you can also just watch closely and see whether your crush seems to be committed. Talk to mutual friends or ask around.
16. **Talk to mutual friends about your crush.** Reach out to friends and acquaintances if you want to learn more about the person you're crushing on. Find a reason to hang out with people that are friends with your crush and just start asking about them. "What do they like? Do they like anyone? Do you think they'd be interested?" All good questions to ask.
Remember, if it slips out, that's not the worst thing to have happen. Might end up making your job and your stress a lot easier.
17. **Hang out in groups.** Find reasons to hang out with your crush, but not in the context of a date, or a one-on-one hang out. Get to know them better by inviting them to do things with your group of friends.
Organize a simple group hang-out, like a movie night at someone's house, or a group dinner somewhere, and invite your crush. If you're still worried about approaching your crush that way, have someone else ask.
If you find out you don't actually like them, good. At least you didn't confess a little crush and make a mistake for someone you don't actually have that much in common with.
18. **Pay attention.** If you want to learn more about someone and find out whether or not you might be good together, part of it is to just start opening your eyes a little. Who does your crush seem to enjoy hanging out with? What is their sense of humor like? What do they like to do in their free time? Spend some time paying attention and watching (not in a creepy way) to learn as much as you can.
Watch for signs of body language when you're around each other. If your crush starts using "closed" body language, arms crossed and not making eye-contact, it could be a sign she's not interested in you. You might save yourself some grief. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Confess-to-Your-Crush", "language": "en"} |
How to Treat Urinary Incontinence in Cats | It can be frustrating when your litter box-trained cat can no longer control their bladder. This condition, known as urinary incontinence, is often caused by obesity, medical issues like diabetes or bladder stones, or old age. Your cat can also develop urinary incontinence if they are prone to bladder issues or infections. If your cat displays any symptoms of urinary incontinence, you should see your vet right away. You can then take care of your cat at home or try surgical intervention to help treat this issue.
1. **Allow your vet to do a physical exam and run tests.** If your cat displays the symptoms of urinary incontinence, including an inability to urinate, bloody or cloudy urine, a loss of bladder control, or straining or crying out in pain when urinating, you should take them to the vet right away. Getting your vet to diagnose the issue will ensure your cat gets the right treatment. Your vet will do a physical exam of your cat, including looking at their abdominal area. They may also run several tests to determine the cause of your cat’s bladder problems.
Your vet may run a urinalysis, where they will test your cat’s urine for bacteria as well as red or white blood cells.
Your vet may also do an x-ray of your cat’s abdominal area to check for bladder stones. They may inject your cat with a special dye so the bladder is easier to see in the x-rays.
2. **Discuss your cat’s diagnosis.** There are several possible causes of urinary incontinence in cats and your vet will be able to tell you which one your cat is dealing with. You should discuss your cat’s diagnosis with the vet so you understand why they are having issues with their bladder. The possible causes of urinary incontinence include:
Feline diabetes: Your cat may have developed diabetes, which can cause them to drink large amounts of water. They may then try to use the litter box but fail to make it in time.
A urinary tract infection (UTI): Your cat may have a UTI, which will cause them to try to urinate but to no avail. If you think your cat as a UTI, get them to your vet right away.
Bladder stones: Some cats are prone to bladder stones, which can cause straining when they try to urinate, constant urination, blood in their urine, and a tender abdominal area.
Old age: Older cats may become senile and forget to urinate in their litter boxes. Senior cats also have weakened muscles, making it more difficult from them to control their bladder.
Obesity: Some cats who are overweight will have difficulty controlling their bladder. You may notice your cat appears overweight, especially if you cannot see their ribs.
3. **Find out your cat’s treatment options.** Your vet will outline your cat’s treatment options, based on their diagnosis. Your cat may require medication and diligent home care to ensure they recover. Your vet may also suggest surgical intervention if your cat’s situation is dire.
If your cat has diabetes, your vet will prescribe medication and dietary changes.
If your cat has a UTI, your vet will prescribe antibiotics that your cat must take until the UTI goes away.
If your cat has bladder stones, your vet may suggest surgery to remove the bladder stones. You may also need to adjust your cat’s diet.
4. **Give your cat the necessary medication** You should make sure your cat gets the medication prescribed to them by the vet, such as antibiotics for a urinary tract infection. Follow your vet’s instructions on dosage and make sure your cat consumes the medication.
If your vet prescribes medication in pill or capsule form, place the medication in the center of a small ball of canned cat food or a piece of cheese. Try to get your cat to swallow the small ball with the medication whole, as they may not want to eat it if they bite into the medication and it leaves a bad taste in their mouth.
You can also try to place the medication in your cat’s mouth directly, though you should use caution as you do not want to get bit by your cat. To do this, hold your cat’s head from the top with your non-dominant hand, placing your fingers around your cat’s cheekbones. Then, tilt their head back so their jaw falls open.
Use your dominant hand to put the medication far back on your cat’s tongue. Then, shut their mouth and stroke their head or blow in their face to encourage them to swallow the medication.
5. **Adjust your cat’s diet.** Your vet may recommend that you adjust your cat’s diet if they are diagnosed with diabetes or obesity. You should follow your vet’s recommendations and adjust your cat’s diet so they are not at risk of other worsening health issues. A change in diet can also help your cat gain better control of their bladder.
You should make sure you cat has access to fresh water on a regular basis, as this will allow your cat to drink the water and flush out their bladder.
6. **Keep your cat’s litter box clean.** You should also keep your cat’s litter box clean and dry to encourage them to go to bathroom. You may try to clean the litter box more than usual so your cat feels more comfortable urinating in their litter box.
If your cat is old and senile, you may place several litter boxes around your home so your cat also more opportunities to go to the bathroom in the litter box. You may also lead your cat to their litter box if they appear to have forgotten where it is located.
You may also keep your cat's litter box in a room that has hardwood, tile, or linoleum floors so that if they have an accident on the way to the litter box, it is easier to clean up.
7. **Put your cat in diapers.** If your cat does not seem to be able to go to the bathroom in their litter box, your vet may recommend the use of diapers. You may need to put your cat in diapers temporarily until they recover. This will prevent accidents on your furniture or your carpet.
8. **Schedule a follow up appointment with your vet.** You should schedule a follow up appointment with your vet so your cat can be examined again and tested for bladder issues. Your vet may do another urinalysis to determine if the treatment is working.
If your cat appears unresponsive to treatment, your vet may run additional tests to try to identify other causes of the urinary incontinence.
9. **Have your cat get surgery to remove obstructions in their bladder.** If your cat is diagnosed with obstructions in their bladder, such as bladder stones, your vet may recommend surgery to remove them. The surgery can be invasive and expensive, but it will effectively relieve your cat’s pain and discomfort.
The surgery to remove bladder stones is called a cystotomy. It is performed by making an incision through your cat’s belly and removing the stones from your cat’s bladder.
Keep in mind cats who develop bladder stones have a high risk of getting them again. Your vet may recommend medication or changes to your cat’s diet to prevent the bladder stones from coming back.
10. **Allow your doctor to repair your cat’s urinary tract.** If your cat’s urinary incontinence is due to damage to their urinary tract, your vet may suggest surgery to repair your cat’s urinary tract. Though the surgery may be costly, it may be necessary if your cat’s urinary tract is damaged.
11. **Help your cat recover after surgery.** Your cat may need some tender loving care after their surgery to ensure they recover well. You should limit your cat’s activity so they can heal. Keep your cat indoors, such as in a crate or a small room in your home.
You may also avoid giving your cat a bath so the incision area does not get wet. Try to examine the incision area often to ensure it is healing properly.
You may need to get a pet cone so your cat does not try to lick or pick at the incision area. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Treat-Urinary-Incontinence-in-Cats", "language": "en"} |
How to Make Ginger Shots | Whether you're fighting a cold, looking for a burst of energy, or trying to improve your immune system, ginger shots are a good idea. Blend fresh ginger root with intense flavors, such as turmeric, lemon, and black pepper. Then strain the liquid through a fine mesh strainer and enjoy a shot. If you'd always like to have ginger shots on hand, freeze the liquid in an ice cube tray and thaw a cube whenever you need a boost!
1. **Chop the ginger and apple.** Rinse a large piece of ginger root and 1 sweet apple, such as Honeycrisp, Gala, or Golden Delicious. Cut the apple into 4 equal pieces and place them in a blender. Then chop the ginger into rough pieces that are about ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) in size. Once you have 3 cups (150 g) of chopped ginger, put it in the blender with the apple pieces.
Since you'll be straining the mixture, there's no need to peel the apple or ginger. You also don't need to core the apple.
If you have a juicer, you can use it instead of the blender.
2. **Peel and cut 3 to 4 lemons.** Rinse the lemons and use a vegetable peeler to remove the tough rind. Then chop the lemons in half and add them to the blender.
Discard the lemon rind or use it in other recipes.
3. **Add turmeric root and black pepper to the blender.** Rinse 4 cups (200 g) of turmeric root and roughly chop them before putting them into the blender along with 1 pinch of ground black pepper. If you prefer an even spicier shot, add a pinch of ground cayenne pepper or cinnamon as well.
There's no need to peel the turmeric since you'll be straining the liquid and the roots are too small to peel easily.
4. **Blend the ingredients until they're smooth.** Put the lid on the blender and pulse the ingredients until the roots, apple, and lemons are combined. Continue to pulse the mixture until it's thick and smooth.
You may need to stop and scrape down the sides of the blender occasionally.
5. **Strain the ginger and turmeric mixture.** Set a fine mesh strainer over a clean bowl and pour the mixture into it. Use the back of a spoon to press the liquid through the strainer so the solids remain.
For even smoother shots, line the strainer with a piece of cheesecloth.
6. **Drink and store the ginger turmeric shots.** Transfer the liquid in the bowl to a storage container. Then pour some of it into a small shot glass and drink it, followed by a glass of water. Refrigerate the remaining liquid for up to 4 days.
You can drink as many ginger and turmeric shots a day as you like.
For longer storage, pour the liquid into a clean ice cube tray. Then defrost a cube whenever you'd like a shot. Freeze the shots for up to 6 months.
7. **Peel** Scrape a spoon against a piece of ginger root to remove the peel. Then chop the ginger into rough pieces that are about ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) in size. You should end up with 1/4 cup (15 g) of chopped ginger root. Place the ginger chunks into a blender.
8. **Squeeze 4 to 6 lemons to get ⁄2 cup (120 ml) of juice.** Rinse the lemons and cut each in half. Use a citrus reamer or juicer to squeeze the lemons until you get ⁄2 cup (120 ml) of juice. Then pour the juice into the blender with the ginger.
Although you could substitute bottled lemon juice, these usually contain preservatives and lemon oils.
9. **Blend the ginger with the lemon juice until it's smooth.** Put the lid on the blender and pulse the ingredients until the ginger is no longer chunky. You should see a thick, cloudy liquid in the blender.
If you want a slightly spicy flavor, add a pinch of cayenne pepper before you blend the mixture.
10. **Strain the mixture into a clean bowl.** Set a fine mesh strainer over a bowl and pour the ginger lemon mixture into it. Press the mixture with the back of a spoon, so the liquid is pushed into the bowl. The solid pulp will be left in the strainer.
Discard the pulp or add it to the next fruit smoothie you make.
11. **Drink and store the lemon ginger shots.** Pour the strained liquid into a small shot glass and drink up to 1 or 2 fluid ounces (30 or 59 ml) a day. Store the remaining liquid in an airtight storage container and refrigerate it for up to 1 week.
Keep in mind that the liquid will intensify in flavor the longer it's stored.
To freeze the shots for longer storage, pour them into an ice cube tray and freeze them for up to 6 months.
12. **Peel and chop the apples** Rinse and peel 4 apples before you remove the cores. Then chop each apple into 4 equal pieces and put the pieces into a blender.
13. **Grate the ginger root.** Get out a large piece or several small pieces of ginger root and peel them using a spoon. Grate the ginger against the small holes of a box grater until you get 4 tablespoons (15 g).
If you prefer, peel the ginger and push it through a garlic press instead of grating it.
14. **Put the ginger, water, and lemon juice in the blender.** Add the grated ginger to the blender with the apple pieces. Pour in 4 cups (950 ml) of water and 4 tablespoons (59 ml) of freshly squeezed lemon juice.
You'll get the most intense lemon flavor by using freshly squeezed juice instead of bottled lemon juice, which has additives and preservatives. You'll need about 2 lemons to get 4 tablespoons (59 ml) of juice.
15. **Blend the fruity ginger shots.** Cover the blender and pulse the ingredients until the mixture is smooth. It's alright if there's a little pulp in the liquid. You don't need to strain the liquid for these shots because you peeled the apples and ginger root.
16. **Pour the liquid into a shot glass and drink it.** If you like, refrigerate the leftover liquid in an airtight container for up to 1 week.
You can drink as many fruity ginger shots a day as you like.
For long-term storage, pour the shots into an ice cube tray. Freeze the shots for up to 6 months. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Ginger-Shots", "language": "en"} |
How to Build a Cabinet: An Easy Guide | Building your own cabinets can save you thousands of dollars, and it gives you more freedom over what the finished product looks like. Plus, building DIY cabinets actually isn't that complicated. To help you get started, we've put together a comprehensive guide to building cabinets that covers everything you'll need to know from start to finish. Keep reading to start building your own custom cabinets today.
1. **Measure the space where the cabinets will go.** Your cabinets may differ slightly depending on where you’re installing them. Grab a tape measure and write down the height, width, and depth of the space that you’re going to put your cabinets.
Focus on building for convenience instead of aesthetic appeal. Make sure the cabinets fit your space and store things within your reach.
Try to build with manufactured wood, which is easier to use than solid wood.
2. **Decide on the dimensions of each cabinet.** Standard cabinets are about 36 in (91 cm) tall, including countertops. The depth is typically around 24 in (61 cm), unless you’re building upper cabinets, in which case the depth is around 12 in (30 cm). Most cabinets sit on top of toe kicks that are 4 in (10 cm) tall and set in about 3 in (7.6 cm) from the front of the cabinet.
You can adjust these measurements slightly to fit your space if you need to. This is your project, so pick the dimensions that work best for your space.
If you'd like to save time, look into flat pack options. These contain pre-cut and drilled cabinet pieces that only require assembly.
3. **Choose between faceless and face frame cabinets.** Cabinets with a face frame are a bit more traditional. They have a wooden “frame” around the doors that provide an aesthetically pleasing finish to the cabinet. Faceless cabinets don’t have this frame, and are generally easier to make for beginners.
If you’re going to build cabinets with a face frame, prepare to buy a little extra wood and spend a little extra time on this project.
Faceless cabinets are also called European cabinets.
4. **Cut 3/4 inch plywood into manageable pieces.** The majority of the cabinet is going to be built using plywood. Head to your local hardware store and pick up some 3/4 inch plywood sheets, then use a circular saw or a track saw to cut them down into 23 in (58 cm) wide strips.
If you’re using a circular saw, make sure you have a straight edge to act as a guide as you cut through your pieces.
Always wear gloves, safety goggles, and ear plugs when using power tools. If you have long hair, tie it up so it doesn’t get caught in your tools.
5. **Cut 34.5 in x 24 in panels for the sides of the cabinet.** Cut out the side pieces out of 3/4" MDF, plywood, or an appropriate type of laminate using a band saw. As the sides will not be seen, the material appearance does not matter, only the strength and durability. These panels will be 34.5" high and 24" wide.
If you’re making upper or wall cabinets, the measurements should reflect your personal tastes. Standard depth is around 12-14". Height depends on how tall you want them to be and how high your ceilings are.
If you adjusted the measurements or your cabinets are a non-standard size, use your own size guidelines instead of the measurements provided here.
6. **Use a jigsaw to cut a toe kick into 1 corner.** Clamp the two panels that you just cut together and then use a jigsaw to cut a 3x5.5" toe-kick in one corner of the panels. This will be your bottom front corner.
If you are making upper cabinets, skip this step. You don’t need a toe kick for upper cabinets.
7. **Cut the bottom piece 24 in (61 cm) deep.** The bottom piece of your cabinet is dictated by the dimensions of your kitchen. Standard cabinets are 24 in (61 cm) deep, but the width depends on where you’re putting the cabinet. Once you’ve cut it to the right depth, cut the width as well.
Again, for wall cabinets, the depth will be somewhere between 12-14", not 24". Cut 2 of these pieces per cabinet for wall cabinets.
8. **Cut the front and back base panels.** Use 1x6 lumber and cut 2 pieces to the width that you cut your bottom panel. If you’re making wall cabinets, you can skip this step.
9. **Cut the top brace panels.** Cut 2 more pieces at the same width to hold the top ends together. Skip this step if you’re making wall cabinets.
10. **Cut the facing panels out of dimensional lumber.** The facing panels will be assembled like a picture frame and will be the main part of the cabinets that show. Since this is the case, you will want to use dimensional lumber in a wood that appeals to you in order to make these panels. Use your table saw to cut wood that will fit the dimensions of the front of your cabinet.
Good sizes to use, depending on the part of the face and the style you want, include 1x2, 1x3, and 1x4.
Since these pieces are like a “frame,” cut 2 pieces for the height of the cabinet and 2 pieces for the width of the cabinet.
11. **Join the base panels to the bottom structure.** Align and glue the base panels so that one flat face is flush with the back edge of the panel and the other is 3 in (7.6 cm) back from the front end. Then, using butt joints, screw through the cabinet base and into the edge of the panels. Pilot holes are a good idea here.
Butt joints are easy joints to make, even for beginning woodworkers. All you have to do is join your pieces together so they butt up against one another and sit flush with each other.
Using wood glue isn’t strictly necessary here, but it’s a nice way to reinforce the joints and keep your pieces together.
12. **Join the sides to the bottom piece.** Glue and then secure (again with butt joints) the side panels to the base and bottom structure, fitting the toe-kick in with the gap you made. Make sure all of the edges are flush.
To be sure that all the edges are flush, use clamps to hold your pieces in place, then use an angle measuring tool to measure each angle.
13. **Secure the top brace panels.** Next glue and secure (with butt joints) the back brace panel so that it will sit flat against the wall. Place the front brace panel so that it will sit flush with the countertop once the countertop is placed.
14. **Nail on a back panel.** Use a nail gun to attach a 1/2" plywood back panel. A thicker back panel will be needed for wall cabinets, like 3/4" MDF.
15. **Reinforce the joints with corner brackets.** Use screws to install corner brackets inside each of the joints. This will help keep the cabinet frame secure so it doesn’t wobble as you install the shelves or the face frame.
Use short screws so that they don’t poke through the back of the cabinet.
16. **Install the shelves using corner brackets.** Use 2 corner brackets per side, and install them on either side of the cabinet where you’d like the shelves to go. Slide in pieces of plywood to sit on top of the corner brackets and act as shelves.
If you’re building wall cabinets, wait to install the shelves until they’re up on the wall. That way, they won’t slide out during installation.
17. **Add the facing panels.** Assemble the facing panels into one unit like you would assemble a picture frame. You can use flat joints or you can miter them. You can use pocket holes, dowels, or mortise and tenon joints to join the pieces together. Nail and the countersink the nails to attach the completed face to the cabinet.
The facing panels sit in front of the cabinet itself but behind the door.
18. **Install the cabinets in their permanent location.** Screw through the back panel and into the wall studs to secure the cabinet in place. Upper cabinets may require more support, such as L brackets (than can be covered up by a backsplash), if you plan to put heavy items, like dishes, in the cabinet.
It’s important to attach cabinets to studs, even if they’re sitting on the ground. Otherwise, heavy items may tip your cabinets over and away from the wall.
19. **Install the doors using hinges.** Buy cabinet doors and install them using the hinges that are included. Once you add the doors, give your cabinets a nice finish with some wood polish before letting them dry.
You can also install drawers in your cabinets if you’d like to. However, creating drawers is a complicated process, and it’s not easy for a beginner to take on. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Build-a-Cabinet", "language": "en"} |
How to Make a Candle | Candles are handy for power outages, great for romantic evenings, complement any dinner table, and create a warm and cozy ambiance. Making your own candles is a fun do-it-yourself activity that you can do to create unique and customized gifts, holiday accents, or decorations. Candles are extremely versatile and provide you with many options in terms of color, scent, shape, size, and style. You can even make a candle out of vegetable shortening in a pinch, so don’t be afraid to experiment with different waxes, aromas, and styles.
1. **Choose a wax.** There are a few wax options for making candles, and beeswax, soy, and paraffin are among the most popular. Beeswax candles are a natural air purifier, but the wax has a high melting point and must be mixed half and half with an oil, such as palm, to lower the melting point.
Soy is a great vegetable wax option for candles and is readily available online or at craft stores.
Paraffin wax is a traditional choice for candles, but paraffin is a petroleum product and can contribute to poor air quality.
Another option is using leftover wax from other candles. Store the wax from candles you burn until you have enough to make a new candle.
Two cups (227.5grams) of wax will yield an eight-ounce candle.
2. **Gather your supplies.** Along with your wax, you will also need a wick, jar, double boiler, and a clean, dry towel. For a scented or colored candle, you’ll also need dye and fragrance.
Be sure to buy lead-free wicks. If your wick isn’t attached to a metal base (called a tab or sustainer), be sure to purchase one separately.
For the jar, you can use a recycled candle jar, mason jar, cleaned out glass jar from the kitchen (like a salsa jar), or even an old metal tin.
You’ll also need something to stir the wax and secure the wick tab in place, such as a spoon, chopstick, or skewer. You can also use a clothespin or pencil to secure the wick in place while the candle sets.
For scented candles, you can either use your favorite essential oils or fragrance oil. For colored candles, you can purchase dye chips, blocks, or liquid. Scents and dyes can be found at most craft stores or candle suppliers.
3. **Melt the wax.** Fill the bottom of the double boiler with about an inch (2.5 cm) of water. Place the top portion of the double boiler in position and put in your wax. Heat it over medium heat.
If your wax came in a large block, cut it into smaller chunks before melting it.
Always use the double boiler method to melt wax, and never try to melt the wax faster at a higher temperature. Wax has a low flash point and can catch fire.
If you don’t have a double boiler, you can place a large, heat-safe glass bowl on top of a metal saucepan and use it as the top portion of the double boiler.
4. **Stiffen the wick.** As the wax melts, hold the wick by the base and dip the wick in and out of the wax quickly. Straighten the wick and allow the wax to dry. This will keep the wick straight and make it easier to position in the bottom of the candle jar.
5. **Secure the wick in place in the jar.** Dip the base of the wick into the wax, pull it out, and then position the wick base in the bottom center of your candle jar. Use a spoon handle, chopstick, or skewer to press it down until the wax dries, holding the wick in place.
Lay a clothespin, chopstick, pencil, or skewer across the rim of the candle jar. If you’re using a clothespin, simply clamp the wick into place so it is straight and centered. If you’re using a chopstick, wrap the excess wick around the chopstick to keep it in place, straight, and centered.
6. **Color the wax.** Stir the wax every so often as it melts. As it’s continuing to melt, chop your dye block or chips into small chunks (if you’re using them). Consult the manufacturer’s instructions regarding how much to use based on the amount and type of wax you’re using.
Once all the wax has fully melted and it’s become a clear liquid, remove it from the heat. Add in the dye and stir until the dye has melted and been dispersed evenly throughout the wax.
7. **Add fragrance.** Once your wax is off the heat and dyed, allow it to cool for 20 to 30 minutes before pouring your candle or adding fragrance. This will prevent the wax from cracking down the center of the candle, and prevent the fragrance from burning off.
For an eight-ounce candle, add about 10 to 15 drops of fragrance and stir to evenly distribute the oil.
8. **Pour the candle.** Pour the wax into the jar, making sure you don’t pour wax all over the top of the wick. Fill the jar, leaving about one-quarter inch of space between the top of the wax and rim of the jar (this may not be necessary if you don’t have that much wax). Wrap the jar with the clean towel. This will prevent the wax from cooling too quickly, and prevent the candle from shrinking and cracking.
9. **Let the candle cure.** Let the candle set for about 24 hours. This will give the wax time to fully dry, and give the dye and fragrance time to bind with the wax.
Once your candle has cured, remove the towel, remove the clothespin, and trim the excess wick to one-half inch.
10. **Gather your supplies.** Most of the supplies you need to make a pillar candle will be the same as what you used for a candle in a jar. The main difference is that because a pillar candle stands alone, you will need a mold instead of a jar. A proper candle mold is ideal, but you can also use:
An old juice box or milk carton with the top cut off. Be sure to clean it with soap and water before reusing it as a candle mold.
A clean, empty juice tin
A muffin tin (to make votive candles)
11. **Prepare your wax.** Melt the wax in the double boiler. When it is fully melted, add the dye. After 20 minutes, add your fragrance. For a natural wax candle that isn’t dyed or scented, just set the wax aside for 20 to 30 minutes to cool.
You can determine how much wax you need based on the size of the jar you’re using.
12. **Prepare your wick.** For a proper candle mold that has a hole in the bottom, thread the wick through the hole, then insert and tighten the wick screw. Apply putty to seal the hole and prevent wax from dripping out.
With a DIY mold, dip the wick in wax to straighten it, then dip the base in the wax so you can glue it to the center base of the mold. Use a chopstick to press the wick tab into place.
For either mold type, keep the top of the wick in place with a clothespin or by wrapping it around a chopstick sitting across the mold rim.
13. **Pour the candle.** When the wax is ready and the wick in place, pour the wax into the mold. Leave a half-inch space at the top of the mold. Allow the wax to cool to a semi-solid state, then poke four relief holes around the wick with the chopstick.
These will allow air to escape and prevent cracking. Allow the wax to cool to room temperature.
14. **Fill the holes.** In the double boiler, reheat the remaining wax to a liquid state again. When it has completely liquefied and is good and hot, pour the wax into the top of the mold to fill the relief holes. Allow the candle to cool and cure.
15. **Remove the candle from the mold.** When the candle has set and cooled, it should slide out of the mold easily. In the event that it doesn’t come out, refrigerate the candle for 15 minutes, then try again. Trim the wick to one-half inch.
16. **Gather your supplies.** A makeshift DIY candle can be created using vegetable shortening, crayons for color, essential oil for aroma, and an old candle jar or mason jar.
Be sure to remove the paper from the crayons before using them.
You will also need a double boiler and spoon.
17. **Melt your shortening.** In a double boiler on medium heat, heat the shortening until it is completely liquid. Remove it from the heat.
18. **Add your color and scent.** Chop your crayon of choice into small pieces. When the shortening is still hot, add the crayon and stir until the color has saturated the shortening. Allow the shortening to cool for about 10 minutes, then add your fragrance of choice.
19. **Prepare the wick and pour the candle.** Prepare the wick as you did for the candle in a jar. When the shortening is ready, pour it into your jar, leaving about an inch of headspace at the top. Let the shortening cool to room temperature and set. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Candle", "language": "en"} |
How to Feed Your Shih Tzu | Feeding your new Shih Tzu can be simple, but it’s important to consider a number of important factors including the variety of food options, how much and when to feed your Shih Tzu, and whether to prepare your own pet food or purchase commercial brands for optimal nutrition. Regardless of what type of food you choose for your Shih Tzu, the most important thing is that your pup remains active and maintains a healthy weight.
1. **Determine your Shih Tzu’s weight.** It’s always best to have your veterinarian or groomer weigh the dog, since they have scales specifically created for this task. However, you can weigh your Shih Tzu at home with a method that is only slightly less accurate. Start by standing on a scale while holding your dog. Then, put the dog down, and weigh yourself again. The difference in these two weights should be your dog’s weight.
2. **Feed your Shih Tzu the appropriate amount of food.** This breed is prone to obesity, so it’s especially important to count calories. On average, older Shih Tzus and puppies need about 280 calories a day, adults need about 340 calories, and very active dogs need about 540 calories. You should be able to find the calorie information on the pet food bag. In most cases, this information is found either as part of the nutritional information or within the feeding guide. If you cannot find caloric information on the packaging, you may want to reconsider your choice of pet food, or contact the supplier directly.
A good equation to determine how much to feed your specific Shih Tzu is 35 times each pound of body weight equals the total number of daily calories. For example, a 9-pound Shih Tzu would need to consume 315 calories a day: 9 X 35 = 315.
Older dogs and puppies need to consume about 30 calories per pound of body weight. The same 9-pound Shih Tzu from the sample above would need 270 calories a day as a puppy and in their old age: 9 X 30 = 270.
Use these calculations as a good starting point or guideline, but they may not be quite right for your dog. Each week feel for your dog's ribs — they should be easy to feel without applying pressure, but they also shouldn't be jutting out of their fur. If you can't find the ribs, then cut the amount of food by 10%.
Dogs are considered senior after the age of seven, and should be considered puppies until they are one year old.
3. **Give your Shih Tzu food in the morning and evening.** Some Shih Tzus will thrive with one large meal, but typically, splitting their daily calorie allotment between a morning and evening meal is preferred. This keeps your pup’s belly full and minimizes the amount of blood sugar peaks and valleys, offering more consistent energy levels.
Until three months old, you can let puppies free feed. Provide them food equivalent to 30 calories per pound of weight, and let them graze throughout the day, unless they show signs of gorging. If your pup eats all of the food at once and is sick, you may need to split their meals up.
Between three months and one year old, feed your Shih Tzu three times each day. After the pup reaches one year of age, you can begin feeding them one or two meals a day.
4. **Avoid leaving large amounts of food out for your pet.** This is called free feeding, and after your Shih Tzu reaches three months of age, this may encourage overeating. As a breed, Shih Tzus are prone to being overweight, so it’s especially important to avoid overfeeding. Instead, portion out their food to split calories into two smaller meals spaced throughout the meal.
5. **Adjust the feeding schedule for older or less active Shih Tzus.** Once your pup reaches the age of seven it’s considered a senior. At this age, you’ll need to reduce their caloric intake. As they age, some dogs will not be able to eat very much at one time. Monitor their food consumption, and if you notice they just eat a few bites within 20 or 45 minutes, you can probably revert to free feeding.
If you have a less active dog, you will need to reduce intake to 30 calories per pound, but you should continue to feed them at regular intervals to avoid weight gain.
6. **Determine the nutrients necessary for optimal health.** Your pup needs to consume a variety of foods to achieve the optimal levels of health and vitality. The American Association of Feed Control Officials (AAFO) sets appropriate nutritional minimums and maximums for each necessary nutrient, but basically, you should ensure your pet has appropriate levels of protein, fatty acids, and vitamins and minerals.
Fatty acids are essential to ensure your dog has adequate energy. These can be derived from animal products; oils like cod liver, fish, and olive oil; and from seeds and nuts.
Carbohydrates provide an easily burned energy source for your pup, and should comprise a significant portion of your dog’s daily intake, especially if you have a very active Shih Tzu.
Vitamins and minerals are necessary in very small quantities, but you should make sure your Shih Tzu is receiving adequate levels of vitamins K and B, folic acid, and choline. Talk to your veterinarian to ensure you are including adequate sources of these vitamins or to get supplements to make up the difference.
7. **Prepare and freeze homemade dog food to preserve it.** There are numerous recipes available online free of charge as well as pet cookbooks and other resources available to help you make healthy foods for your Shih Tzu. Regardless of what recipe you choose, you may want to consider making large batches of one or two recipes and storing them in the freezer to extend the shelf life.
Prepare a month or more worth of food with two recipes at a time, and stagger your Shih Tzu’s meals each week.
8. **Include supplements in your Shih Tzu’s meal.** The American Association of Feed Control Officials (AAFO) recommends supplements be used sparingly as a well-balanced diet already includes many of these key nutrients. However, if you’re preparing your own foods, you need to make sure your Shih Tzu has adequate levels of vitamins B and K, folic acid, choline, and fatty acids.
Take into account those vitamins and minerals present in the meats, grains, and vegetables you use to make your dog’s food.
Then, add in supplements as necessary to ensure your pup is receiving appropriate levels of each.
Always consult your veterinarian before giving your Shih Tzu any supplements.
9. **Read nutrition labels.** The key information you're looking for is a label that lists a protein source derived from a quality source as the main ingredient. Quality is determined by sources of whole meat rather than meat by-products or plant-derived protein sources. Once you have determined the percentage of each key nutrient in your pet food (protein, fiber, fat, etc.), you should compare these to the standards set forth by the AAFO, American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA), and other organizations that assess the quality of foods.
Check for labels that indicate the food has been certified by the AAFO.
Make sure the pet food does not include large amounts of sodium, sugar, or chemicals. If you don't recognize the foods in the ingredient list, chances are the food is not of adequate nutritional quality.
10. **Look for high-quality ingredients.** The main difference between dog foods, besides price, is typically the quality of protein sources. You want to find ingredient lists that include whole meat sources. For other nutrient sources, avoid anything that uses modifiers in the description like derivatives, additives, or byproducts. For grains and other additions that provide carbohydrates, vitamins, and minerals, look for sources like oats, seaweed, and rice rather than cereals or wheat.
11. **Ensure your Shih Tzu's food has adequate protein.** This nutrient is essential in providing your dog with adequate energy and muscle and immune system sustaining amino acids. Puppies need foods that contain at least 20 to 25% protein, and adult dogs need between 15 and 20% protein foods. You should look for foods with high quality protein sources like chicken, beef, or fish.
12. **Find foods with appropriate fat content.** This is essential to ensuring your pup's ongoing health. While fat may sound unhealthy, it actually helps with the development of healthy brain tissue and provides an energy source for your pup. Puppies need between 5 and 10% crude fat in their diets, and adult Shih Tzus need foods that are about 5% fat. Fat can be derived from the meat source or from a supplement like fish oil.
13. **Feed your Shih Tzu the right amounts of bone health nutrients.** You'll need to ensure your pet receives calcium, phosphorous, and potassium from their foods. These nutrients aid in a number of health functions, but they are most essential in the development and maintenance of strong, healthy bones. These nutrients make up less than 5% of your pet's meals, but it's very important to make sure your pet food includes adequate amounts to meet your dog's needs. Typically, you'll need between half and one percent of each of these nutrients. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Feed-Your-Shih-Tzu", "language": "en"} |
8 Tips to Become a Qualified and Professional Ethical Hacker | In the last few decades, there's been an increasing demand for ethical hackers (also known as white hat hackers) as they protect the computer systems from dangerous intrusions. Ethical hackers are technically skilled IT pros with a strong desire to solve problems and prevent malicious hackers from causing damage to network systems. To be a professional ethical hacker you require motivation, dedication, initiative, self-education and formal training in ethical hacking.
1. **There are three types of hackers—White Hat, Grey Hat, and Black Hat.** Newbies who are keen to become a Black Hat need to keep in mind that "A day of glory is not worth years in prison".
2. **Ethical hacking can be lucrative in all sectors.** Seek positions with government organizations, banks, financial institutions, military establishments and private companies.
3. **Being a great hacker takes practice and commitment.** Read on your own to know the areas where you need to improve, and what you need to learn to refine your focus. Technology changes rapidly, and a good ethical hacker must be willing and eager to keep up with the new technological developments.
Stay connected to the hacker community by sharing technical information and ideas.
4. **Do not think of specializing in both the areas.** Though knowledge of both is required but the decision will help you to know where to begin. You must be aware of every function, every component of computer on which you will have to work on.
5. **Master one or more programming languages.** Languages such as C, Python, or Java are important for hackers. These programming languages can be learned by taking formal programming courses and reading books. It will help you to read and write code.
6. **Learn the UNIX operating system.** This operating system is regarded as the original operating system built by hackers. Also learn about Windows and Mac OSX.
7. **Enroll in security-related classes.** There are a wide variety of courses available for IT security professionals in "Ethical Hacking” or “Internet Security” which would help you to expand your knowledge in ethical hacking. Get certified as it would help you to succeed in the vanguard of your profession.
8. **Mess around with hardware and software.** Learn how to take control of the situations and how to prevent a computer from getting hacked. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Become-a-Qualified-and-Professional-Ethical-Hacker", "language": "en"} |
How to Write a Tragedy | Tragedy is a work of drama that involves some type of human suffering as its central premise. There are many types of tragedy, ranging from Greek tragedy to Elizabethan tragedy, and all the way through to contemporary dramatic fiction and theater. Most true tragedies show the audience a great hero's downfall, either caused by his own actions/inactions or by forces beyond his control. Tragedies were meant to purge the audience of the negative emotions that build up inside of us through a cathartic release of those feelings. Studying classic tragedies and learning the finer points of writing fiction can help you write your own great tragic play or novel.
1. **Read classic tragedies.** There have been many tragedies written throughout history, and each one reflects the time and place in which it was produced. Many scholars consider the epic works of Homer to be among the oldest examples of Greek tragedy, in which great heroes like Odysseus are faced with a series of misfortunes. But perhaps the most well-known tragedies are those penned by William Shakespeare, such as Hamlet or Julius Cesar, in which the hero almost invariably dies after tremendous suffering and misery.
Greek tragedies tended to address a single topic and its plot, while English tragedies (including the works of Shakespeare) usually have multiple storylines that are tied together through shared loss and suffering.
For a comprehensive collection of tragic works, consult your library, or search online. Many scholars and literary critics publish their own listings of what they consider the most important/influential works of literature.
2. **Learn the basic characters.** Though every tragedy is unique in its characters and plot points, there are some basic tropes of tragedy that tend to apply to all literary works in the genre. A tragedy generally involves either a tragic hero (often a person of great social importance), who suffers some great downfall and/or death as a result of some significant action or inaction, or the scapegoat (a person of low social importance), who is involuntarily thrust into tragic circumstances beyond his/her control. Most tragedies will have some or all of the following character types:
protagonist - the lead character, who is almost always a tragic hero
antagonist - any person or thing against which the protagonist struggles (often a villain, but not always)
foils/counterparts - side characters, often associated with the protagonist or antagonist, who reveal or complicate some key aspect(s) of the main characters
stock characters - often used to exaggerate or expand on some characteristic that arises in the rest of the tragedy
narrators/chorus - not necessarily present in every work of tragedy, but an important part of certain works, often used to communicate directly with the audience
3. **Analyze the tragic hero figure.** Nearly every tragedy has a tragic hero at its center. In early Greek tragedies that hero was often a god, but as the genre grew the tragic hero came to include war heroes and even royalty or political figures. The general rule for tragic heroes today is that the character must be morally strong and essentially admirable to the audience.
The tragic hero must experience some type of downfall (known as the "hamartia," or "tragic error"), often as a result of that character's hubris (often thought of as pride, though it also includes overstepping one's cultural/ethical limitations).
The tragic hero usually experiences some sort of insight or recognition of his tragic fate (called the "anagnorisis"). At this point he knows that there is no going back, and that he must let the tragic fate before him play out.
Above all else, the tragic hero should be pitiable. This is because he is destined to experience a downfall, and an audience would cheer or feel a sense of relief when a villain experiences misfortune. The true tragedy of a tragic work is that anyone could experience the sort of suffering that happens to the hero, and his downfall should purge the negative emotions of the audience.
4. **Study the tragic plot structure.** Just as every tragedy will feature unique characters that fall into a standard "type," so each plot may be unique and original, while still falling into a common formulaic structure. The essential elements of every tragedy include:
exposition - the essential "background" information, which may be delivered all at once in the beginning of the play or throughout the dramatic piece via dialogue and/or soliloquies
conflict - the tension that arises as a result of some conflict, usually between either character vs. self, character vs. character, character vs. environment, character vs. natural forces, or character vs. group
climax - the point in the play in which tension cannon be reversed and events must turn towards one of two outcomes
resolution/denouement - the unraveling or release of tension, often through the death of one or more characters in the play
5. **Understand the types of plot.** The plot structure of a tragedy typically relies on one of three types of plot. Those plot types are:
climactic - tension builds toward a single point (climax) before the resolution, usually through a linear structure comprised of causal actions
episodic - often composed of numerous short, fragmented scenes involving many characters and numerous threads of action to highlight various aspects of humanity
non-sequitur - inconsistent events involving existential, often under-developed characters engaged in something relatively meaningless, meant to highlight the absurdity of existence
6. **Choose a mode of storytelling.** Tragedies have traditionally been written and performed as plays. This dates back to the earliest tragedies, which were part of a Dionysian ceremony in which performers dressed as goats to reenact a hero's suffering or death. However, tragedies can also be written for a reading audience instead of a performance audience, which means novels/novellas and even young-adult fiction can all be classified as works of tragedy.
Which mode of storytelling you choose will depend on both your areas of strength/comfort as a writer and the nature of the story you'll be telling.
If you're equally experienced (or equally inexperienced) in both fiction and drama, try to choose a mode that fits your desired story. It may be easier to devise a storyline first without imposing the format of a play or a novel on your idea.
7. **Come up with a story.** Once you have a firm grasp on the nature of tragedies and their basic structural components, you'll need to create a basic outline of your plot. The plot of your tragedy will be the basic events and occurrences which will take place in your work. It should be about some basic idea, though ultimately the idea should come across through plot and character, rather than being simply "about" that idea. In other words, your story should mean something without coming right out and telling the audience what the story literally means.
If you are basing your tragedy on an existing myth, you'll be somewhat bound to the events of that myth, and will not be able to significantly deviate from the main plot points within that myth without your audience losing interest. You may, however, be able to radically reinterpret a myth whose outcome is vague or ambiguous.
Alternately, you may wish to create your own storyline from scratch, in which case you will not be bound by any canonical characters or events.
Choose a plot that will help you tell the story you feel compelled to write. Don't think of the plot as a restriction. Instead, think of it as a lens through which you can write about some struggle or aspect of humanity.
8. **Outline your plot** Once you have a basic story idea, you'll need to outline the plot for that story. The easiest way to do this is to write out a few basic aspects of your story, so that you can further develop those aspects and arrange them into a coherent storyline. A good place to begin is by outlining the following parts of your tragedy:
motivation - why the protagonist and antagonist do what they do in the story
basic structure - the overall events that make up your story, and the sequence in which those events occur and/or initiate other events that will take place
outcome - what will ultimately happen to resolve your story
subplots - any sub-story lines you'd like to complicate your story or further challenge your characters
9. **Create characters** Now that you've come up with a story and mapped out the basic structure of your plot, you'll want to create the characters who will act out your tragedy. You'll need the basic characters found in most tragedies, including a protagonist, antagonist, foil characters, and stock characters. At this point, you won't need to actually write dialogue for the characters, but you should be thinking about how they will play out on the page or on stage. You can keep track of these ideas by writing out a few sentences or a paragraph of notes on each major character.
Think about what kinds of characters would fill the roles created by your story.
Consider the relationships between each character. If they interact at all, or have any kind of knowledge of one another, they should have a clear and unambiguous relationship with one another. Common relationships typically fall into romantic, parent/child, sibling, friends, aggressor/victim, rival/adversary, boss/employee, or caregiver/receiver dynamics.
Remember to include a tragic hero. At this point you should decide what his general downfall will be, and what choices he will make that will lead him to his fate.
Consider making the characters question themselves, others, or their relationships with one another. You may also want to give them strong opinions, and use those opinions to further develop each character's personality and role.
Your characters should be realistic and human enough to be likable and relatable, but because you're writing a tragedy, you may want to make one or more of the characters somehow superior to humans. This can take the shape of exceptional heroism, great wealth/power, or it could mean that one or more characters are actually super-human (gods/goddesses, magicians, etc.).
10. **Flesh out the plot** By now you should have come up with a basic premise, outlined the series of events that will tell that story, and created characters to enact those events. Once this is complete, you'll need to expand your plot into a full, functional story. Depending on where your strengths lie, this may be the easy part for you, or the extraordinarily difficult part of developing a story.
Focus on the details. Details are what bring a story to life, but you also have to be careful not to weigh down your story with useless trivialities. When in doubt, think of the Chekhov's Gun principle: if you're going to include something (like placing a gun on stage), it must be relevant (for example, the aforementioned gun must be used in some significant way).
Make things more complex. That could mean simply adding some type of plot twist, but a more effective way to complicate the story would be to develop something really interesting and compelling about some of the main characters. That way they become more three-dimensional and in turn more human - remember, no living person is ever as simple as they might appear in a character description.
Think about the ways in which each character changes throughout the course of your tragedy. If any of the main characters emerges unchanged (other than, say, a villain who will never feel remorse for his actions), your tragedy is not developed enough.
Let your characters be emotional. Don't make them unrealistically emotional, but ensure that as they suffer on the page, their suffering is apparent and acknowledged by the audience.
11. **Develop the tragic hero's downfall.** You should already have a general idea of what will happen to the tragic hero and what series of events will lead to his fate. But as you go through the process of writing your tragedy, you should expand on that series of events and weave elements of the hero's demise throughout the book or play. This is the central element of a work of tragedy, and it requires consistency throughout the manuscript and sufficient time to develop and unfold on the page (or on stage).
If the hero's tragedy involves revenge, the reader/audience should understand the reasons for that revenge from the first few scenes or chapters. For example, in Shakespeare's great tragedy Hamlet, the audience is introduced to the ghost of King Hamlet in Act One, Scene One, and knows that his death will be a significant aspect of the play that follows.
All of the important characters who are relevant to the hero and his downfall should be introduced fairly early on in the tragedy. The play/novel should begin by giving expository information or contextual clues to explain the hero's situation, and should begin setting up the hero's rise to hubris and eventual downfall from the very start.
12. **Incorporate simile and/or metaphor.** Simile and metaphor have historically been tremendously important to any successful tragedy. They give further meaning to the words on the page or the actions on the stage, and they allow the reader/audience to feel involved in the story by deciphering your comparisons and reading into the "bigger picture" of your work.
Metaphors are comparisons between two things, while similes compare things using the words "like" or "as". All similes are metaphors, but not all metaphors are similes.
An example of a metaphor would be, "Her eyes shine into mine." The reader knows that a character's eyes do not literally emit light, and it's clear the author meant that a character has bright, captivating eyes.
An example of a simile would be, "As she cried, her eyes glistened like stars." Again, the reader knows that the character's eyes are not literally similar to a celestial body, but simile and metaphor both lend a poetic quality to the language used in a piece of writing.
13. **Create scenes** Scenes are the bread and butter of a tragedy. They are the framework in which everything happens, and each scene should have a clear beginning, middle, and ending that also contributes toward the overall storyline.
Every scene should have a basic buildup, action, climax, and resolution/wind down.
14. **Build tension.** As you expand on the plot, if you find yourself wondering whether the plot is meaningful enough, think about ways to raise the stakes. For example, if someone is afraid that her husband will be kidnapped and murdered, make it clear to the reader why that would be tragic. Has she lost someone important to her in the past? In the world you've created, would she be able to survive as a widow? All of these questions will make a difference between the audience thinking "That's unfortunate that her husband died" and "This is a tragic event that will probably lead to her own death."
Tragedies are full of horrible, disastrous events. Make it clear that the upsetting things that happen to your characters are horrible beyond the surface-level shock.
15. **Resolve the tension.** Just as every action must have an equal reaction, every tragedy's tension must have a resolution. You simply cannot leave critical events unresolved or end a tragedy without everyone's lives changing (usually by falling apart) in some way. All loose ends must be resolved, anything set in motion during the tragedy should come to pass, and the horrible things that happened in the play should lead to meaningful suffering/loss/death.
Let the resolution of tension lead into a natural ending place for the story. The plot will suffer if the story continues for any significant length after the tension has resolved, because there will no longer be any stakes driving the story or affecting the characters.
16. **Revise your work** Like any piece of writing, your tragedy will need to undergo a revision or two once it's finished. This may entail providing further details to develop a character, filling in plot holes, and adding/removing or re-writing scenes as needed. You can revise the manuscript yourself, or ask someone you know and trust for an honest evaluation of the manuscript.
Give yourself two to four weeks after finishing the manuscript before you attempt to revise it. It can be difficult to distance yourself from your work after only a few days, and because the story is still fresh in your mind you may overlook certain things that wouldn't make sense to an outside reader.
Try doing a read through before you sit down to make any actual changes. Just take notes on any sections that are confusing, underdeveloped, or unnecessary/irrelevant without stopping to revise. Then you can decide how to remedy those issues once you've gotten all the way through the manuscript.
As you read and revise, ask yourself whether the story makes sense as a whole, whether the plot is compelling/engaging, whether it flows smoothly or feels choppy, and whether the stakes are high enough for the characters involved to elicit an emotional response from your readers/audience.
Think about the impact the final product will have on your readers/audience.
Remember that the tragic hero should be a likable character with good, desirable qualities whose demise results from his/her own choices, whether those choices are actions or inactions. Will your hero's downfall ultimately cause the readers/audience to feel pity and fear? If not, you may need to make significant revisions to your manuscript.
17. **Edit at the line-level.** Once you've hammered out the larger issues within the manuscript during the revision stage, you'll need to do a thorough editing of the entire work. This may include checking spelling, ensuring subject-verb agreement, correcting for tense agreements, and taking out any "filler" portions of the manuscript.
Make sure that the way you choose your words and phrase your sentences is precise and meticulous. Cut out any unnecessary words ("filler"), confusing words/terms, and poorly-constructed sentences.
Avoid repeating the same words needlessly. It comes across as sloppy or weak. Instead, find new and interesting ways to say what you're trying to say.
Resolve any run-on sentences and any sentence fragments in your work. These can be confusing for readers/audience members, and may be difficult for actors to speak. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Write-a-Tragedy", "language": "en"} |
How to Avoid Bothering Your Busy Boyfriend | Do you wish your boyfriend had more time to spend with you? If your beau always seems to be busy with work, school, or other obligations, it can put a strain on your relationship, especially if you tend to call or visit him at inopportune times. Mismatched schedules don’t have to spell the end of your relationship, though. Keep your relationship strong and avoid annoying your boyfriend by communicating about your schedules, not acting clingy, and keeping yourself busy, too.
1. **Ask your boyfriend about his schedule.** Find out when your boyfriend is free and when he needs to be left alone to get things done. Learn what hours he works, when he’s at school, and what times he goes to sports practice or works on his hobbies.
Try to schedule daily phone calls or texts. Everyone can make some time in their day to reach out to the people they care about. If your boyfriend can’t do this, it may be a sign that he lacks interest.
You might want to make a copy of your boyfriend’s schedule so you won’t forget it. If he uses an online scheduling tool like Google Calendar, ask him to give you access to it.
2. **Talk with your boyfriend about when you should call and visit.** Don’t just guess when you should call or visit your boyfriend – discuss it ahead of time so you’ll know for sure. Ask him when he prefers to talk on the phone, and see whether he has any downtime during the day when you can come say hello.
For instance, maybe he’s free to have lunch with you once a week, or maybe he can talk on the phone with you when he gets out of class at 4 PM.
3. **Find creative ways to spend time together.** If your boyfriend is too busy to go on long dates with you every week, look for other reasons to get together. For instance, you could help him with yard work or go to the gym together in the mornings.
You can also join him for activities he’s already involved in. If he takes a cooking class on Monday nights, ask him if you can come, too.
4. **Make the most of your visits and calls.** If you can’t see your boyfriend often, focus on making your talks and visits fun and memorable when you do get together. Plan ahead, even if that just means renting a movie and cooking a nice dinner. If you’re worried you’ll forget to tell him things, write them down so you’ll have plenty to talk about next time you see each other.
5. **Resist the temptation to call too frequently.** If you know your boyfriend is busy, don’t call or text him, even if you miss him. If you interrupt him too often, you’ll seem clingy and he’ll get annoyed. Stick to the times you agreed on for talking and hanging out together.
Don’t initiate all your conversations. Give your boyfriend a chance to call you first sometimes, too.
If you’re really tempted to call or text but you know it’s a bad time, turn off your phone, or go somewhere and leave your phone at home.
6. **Limit contacting him on social media.** If your boyfriend is really busy, he may not have time to watch the adorable baby video you tagged him in, or to check out the list of artists for a local concert. Ask him what's a happy medium for social media activity and stick to it. Numerous Facebook and Instagram messages can distract him from school or work.
7. **Don’t assume something is wrong if you don’t hear from him.** There are all kinds of reasons your boyfriend might not call or text you back. Maybe he forgot to take his phone off silent mode after class, or maybe he got held up by something at work. Don’t panic or assume he’s being passive-aggressive with you – everything is probably fine.
Whatever you do, don’t send him a barrage of texts or calls. He’ll get back to you when he can. Find a way to distract yourself in the meantime.
However, if you don’t hear back from him within a week, it’s probably time to check on him to make sure everything’s ok.
8. **Respect your boyfriend’s free time.** Be easygoing and flexible, and don’t try to monopolize your boyfriend’s free time. His family and other friends are important to him, and he needs to spend time with them sometimes. He may also need regular time alone to recharge.
9. **Determine if you are compatible.** If your boyfriend never seems to make time for you, you may want to decide if that's the kind of relationship you were looking for. Some partners aren't simply cut out to be together. You might prefer a relationship in which your partner is more available to you--and that's not what you're getting with a boyfriend who's always busy.
Before you make a decision, you might first talk to him about your needs. You might say something like, "I really want to spend more time with you on the weekends, but your schedule is always jam-packed. Us not spending time together is really bothering me. Will it always be like this?"
If your boyfriend tries to make changes to better accommodate you in his schedule, then you might give the relationship another shot.
You might also look for other signs of incompatibility, like different values and beliefs.
10. **Reassess the relationship.** If you suspect that your boyfriend is using being busy as an excuse to push you away, he’s probably not the right person for you. He might be married to his job or goals, and unless you have a similar mindset, you’ll probably end up feeling unloved and neglected.
Sometimes people avoid their significant other because they don’t know how to break up. If you think this is what your boyfriend is doing, don’t drag things out. Be the more mature person and call it quits.
11. **Focus on your responsibilities.** Your boyfriend has priorities, and there’s no reason you shouldn’t have some, too. Keep yourself busy doing things you need to do. If you feel like you don’t have much to do, set some new goals or work on an area of your life that needs improvement.
For example, you can put extra effort into your work or studying, spend more time with your family, or catch up on chores around the house.
12. **Pick up some new hobbies.** Your boyfriend shouldn’t be the only source of fun in your life. Fill your time with things you enjoy, and if you don’t have many hobbies, go get some. Besides being happier, you’ll also be more attractive and interesting when you have a life outside your relationship.
For instance, you could start working out, learn a new language, write a novel, or pick up a craft.
Try visiting https://www.meetup.com, a platform that connects you to others in your area who also want to try new activities.
13. **Spend time with people who take your mind off your relationship.** Make time to see your friends regularly, and don’t just talk about your boyfriend with them. Do things related to your shared interests, like going to concerts, shopping, or watching movies. Spend less time with friends who are needy towards their own boyfriends, since their behavior may influence you.
14. **Respect your own time.** Your plans, goals, and friendships are just as important as your boyfriend’s, so don’t just drop everything the second he wants to see you. Make sure he respects your time as much as you respect his. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Avoid-Bothering-Your-Busy-Boyfriend", "language": "en"} |
How to Make Papier Mâché Planets | Arts and crafts projects can be a great way to educate children. Planets and the solar system are fascinating, but a topic so vast can quickly become overwhelming for a young learner. Using papier-mâché to create models of the planets is a fun, hands on way to allow young children to explore the universe.
1. **Create a work area.** Find a table or other flat area that can be easily covered to make as little of a mess as possible. Cover the area with newspaper to make for a quick and easy clean up. The adhesive used in papier-mâché can be difficult to remove from wood and other surfaces.
2. **Gather your materials.** You'll need some basic materials to get started. Papier-mâché doesn't require special supplies. You will need:
A large bowl for mixing your adhesive mixture.
A cup or two of water.
Newspapers torn into long, narrow strips. A good size to aim for is 2 to 3 inches wide and 6 to 7 inches long per strip.
Paint brushes.
Paint or markers to color the planets. In order to make the planets as realistic as possible you'll need all your basic colors handy: orange, yellow, blue, brown, green, red, gray, and white.
At least a dozen balloons, in case you need a few extra.
Ingredients for adhesive: you can use either white craft glue or flour and water.
Material for planet rings. Saturn, Jupiter, Uranus, and Neptune all have rings. You'll need a thin flexible wire or pipe cleaner to form rings, or you can just use construction paper.
3. **Mix your adhesive.** There are two easy ways to make an adhesive that you'll use to apply the newspaper strips to the balloons. You can either use a white craft glue base or a white flour base.
If you want to use glue, you can buy any basic white glue. Mix two parts glue to one part water in a bowl. You'll need several cups to make the entire set of planets.
If you don't have glue readily available, you can grab some white flour from your cupboard. Mix one part flour to one part water in a bowl. Make about two cups.
You'll want a consistency that resembles the thickness of glue, but not so thick that it does not spread easily over your newspaper strips. If it is too thick add more water. If it is too watery, add some more glue or flour.
4. **Inflate the balloons to proper size.** You will use ten balloons total. One balloon will represent the sun, and the other nine, the planets. In order from the sun, these are: Mercury, Venus, Earth, Mars, Jupiter, Saturn, Uranus, Neptune and Pluto (which has been demoted in status to a "dwarf planet"; after conducting your own research, you may choose whether or not to include it). Although you may not be able to get the scale exact, it will be useful for educational purposes to blow up the balloons so that their relative size matches the planets they represent. The biggest balloon will be the Sun, which is approximately ten times the largest planet Jupiter. For sake of scale, each planet can be roughly compared to the following objects:
Mercury — marble
Venus — walnut
Earth — golf ball
Mars — acorn
Jupiter — basketball
Saturn — soccer ball
Uranus — soft ball
Neptune — small grapefruit
Pluto — kidney bean
5. **Prepare the papier-mâché.** If you’ve never worked with papier-mâché before, it's both a fun and easy medium to work with. The process of making it is simple, but will almost certainly get messy. You will be dipping newspaper strips in your adhesive mixture and applying it to an object, in this case a balloon. Once the strips dry, you'll be left with hardened objects that will represent the planets.
Tear the newspaper into long, thin strips.
Use one strip at a time and get rid of excess adhesive from each strip over the bowl by running your fingers lightly over it. This will conserve your mixture but also make sure your planets are not too soggy.
6. **Add the papier-mâché to the balloons.** Drape the wet newspaper strips across the surface of each balloon. It may help to make two layers, one horizontal and one vertical, so you can be sure of full coverage. Balloons have a tend to wander if not held in place. If you have an extra pair of hands, have one person hold the balloon while the other applies the strips. Otherwise, you can put the balloon in a large bowl that will keep it in place or nestle it between two weighted objects, like some books.
In order to cover the tie end of the balloon, tape it down and then place a strip directly over the end.
Make sure there are no gaps between the strips. You want to cover the balloon completely.
Use your paintbrush to smooth the surface and get rid of excess glue from the newspaper strips. It's okay to leave some texture to the final product as this will make the balloons appear more realistic to the topography of a planet.
7. **Look for problem areas.** You won't want to peel off layers of dry, painted papier-mâché, so look for any issues after you place the strips.
If you see a strip that doesn't look right and it's not yet dry, simply remove it and reapply a new strip. You can do this after it's dry, but the strip may break apart and require a little more work.
8. **Allow the glue to dry.** Factors like humidity and room temperature can affect drying times. You may need to wait until the next day to proceed to the finishing touches. Using a gentle blowing fan may speed the process somewhat, as long as it doesn’t scatter the balloons around the room. It would be best if you have a drying rack, or an enclosed protected space to prevent the balloons from rolling around. Otherwise, the added weight of the glue should limit their movement on its own.
9. **Paint your planets.** Many of the planets of our solar system have bright, vivid colors. You'll want to be as accurate as possible if it's an educational project, but otherwise, have fun and be creative!
Mercury is typically a slight gray or blue.
Venus is a pale yellow.
Earth is mainly blue with white for clouds and green and browns land masses.
Mars is a reddish brown due to its rusty rocks and minerals.
Jupiter is orange with light white bands.
Saturn is a pale gold due to its high concentration of ammonia.
Uranus is a pale blue.
Neptune is also a light blue due to its high concentration of methane.
Should you wish to include Pluto, paint it light brown.
10. **Make planetary rings.** Saturn, Jupiter, Uranus, and Neptune all have rings. The easiest way to make rings is to use a thin wire purchased from any local hardware store. You can make a small hole in the dried exterior using the wire or a small knife. You'll want the hole to be on the side of the balloon and somewhat centered to make it as much like the real placement of the rings as possible. Put the wire through the hole and close the end to anchor it. Then form a circle around each ringed planet with the wire long enough to stretch the entire diameter. The wire will support itself and will simply need to be bent around each planet.
If you do not have wire, you can use construction paper. Cut the construction paper 2 to 3 inches wide and long enough to make it around the entire balloon. Glue the construction paper ring around each planet.
11. **Make a place to hang your planets.** If you want to hang your planets using fishing line or other string to give the allusion of a floating solar system, you'll need a place to tie the string. The easiest way to do this is to gently poke a hole in the hardened paper (being careful to not pop the balloon) and put a curved paper clip through the hole where string can be tied.
12. **Display your project.** One simple way to display your project is to use the paper clips you placed in earlier, tie fishing string and hang from something like a paneled ceiling, putting the planets in order so they realistically portray the solar system. You can also tie each planet to something simple like coat hangers that can be hung around the room, or make a wooden dowel that planets can be hung from.
The sun should be the first balloon, followed by each planet in order. The string should hang the planets low enough that they are visible to each child and readily able to be interacted with. Since it will be difficult to replicate the exact scale of each planet's distance from the sun, you should make them far enough apart to be clearly distinguished from one another. A good distance to shoot for would be 2 to 3 feet apart if you have plenty of space, otherwise use your space the best way you see fit.
13. **Use your completed project to educate children.** Point out the difference in sizes, colors, and so on. This is a great way to convey facts and to help children begin a journey of understanding our solar system better. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Papier-M%C3%A2ch%C3%A9-Planets", "language": "en"} |
How to Mix Aloe Vera Gel with Oils | You've probably used aloe if you've ever needed relief from sunburn, but did you know that it works for a variety of other conditions? Aloe is extremely versatile and can be used as an acne treatment and a moisturizer. If you want to make aloe even more effective, you can easily mix it with cosmetic and essential oils. Each oil has its own properties and uses, but we've picked a few of the simplest combinations you can try out to keep your skin and hair healthy!
1. **Mix aloe with coconut oil for a homemade conditioning mask.** Combine 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of aloe vera gel with 2 tablespoons (30 ml) of coconut oil. When you want to use it, wash your hair as you normally would first. Then massage the aloe and coconut oil into your scalp and work it down toward the ends of your hair. Keep the conditioner in your hair for 30 minutes before rinsing it out.
Use the hair mask up to twice per week.
Coconut oil already works great for moisturizing dry or frizzy hair, and adding aloe will only make it work more effectively.
You can also add 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of castor oil, a few drops of vitamin E oil, or a couple of drops of your favorite essential oil, like tea tree or lavender.
2. **Moisturize your face with aloe and jojoba oil.** Pour 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of aloe gel and 1 tablespoon (15 ml) of jojoba oil into a small dropper bottle. Screw on the cap and shake your bottle to thoroughly combine the ingredients. After you wash your face and pat it dry, put a few drops in your hand and rub the aloe and oil directly on your skin.
Aloe will also help treat acne if you use it twice a day.
Jojoba oil is already in a lot of moisturizers and acts as an anti-inflammatory, so it really helps soothe your skin.
Try adding about 6 drops of frankincense essential oil to give your moisturizer a pleasant smell.
3. **Use coconut oil and aloe as shave gel.** Coconut oil already moisturizes your skin and the addition of aloe can help prevent razor burn or irritation. Melt ⁄4 cup (59 ml) of coconut oil on your stove and stir in ⁄4 cup (59 ml) of pure aloe vera gel. When you’re ready to shave, just scoop some gel out and rub a thin layer over your skin. Let it sit for a few minutes before you start shaving.
You can store your homemade shave gel for up to 2 months at room temperature in a plastic container.
If your coconut oil hardens or separates, just put a lid on the container and hold it under hot water so it warms up again.
4. **Create insect repellent with aloe and olive oil.** Some studies have shown that aloe vera and olive oil applied to your skin can deter mosquitoes. Combine about 0.84 cups (200 ml) of olive oil with 3 tablespoons (44 ml) of aloe vera gel. You can mix the ingredients by hand or use a blender. Rub the mixture on your skin when you’re going outside so you don’t get bitten.
While it is rare, you may get irritated skin from the aloe. If you do, reduce the amount of aloe to 2 tablespoons (30 ml) instead.
5. **Try using castor oil and aloe gel as an anti-aging cream.** In a small bottle, combine 9 parts aloe vera gel and 1 part castor oil and shake it together. Keep the mixture in your fridge so it has even more of a cooling effect on your skin. Massage the oil and aloe directly into your skin, especially around your eyes, to help tighten and moisturize your skin.
Avoid using castor oil if you have fungal dermatitis since it could make your condition worse.
You can try adding more castor oil to thicken the moisturizer and help hold cosmetics better. The consistency just depends on your own personal preference.
Castor oil also has anti-inflammatory properties, so it can help shrink any stretch marks or wrinkles.
6. **Try tea tree oil with aloe to lighten scars and dark spots.** If you want to make your own face mask, try mixing 4 tablespoons (59 ml) of aloe gel with just 2 drops of tea tree oil. Apply the aloe mask to any blemishes and let it sit for about 10–15 minutes. Be sure to rinse your skin thoroughly and apply a moisturizer afterwards so your skin doesn’t dry out.
You can also blend in ½ of a peeled cucumber to add potassium and vitamin E to moisturizer.
Studies have shown that tea tree oil combined with aloe can effectively treat acne, scars, and dark skin.
7. **Mix peppermint oil with aloe gel for a daily hair moisturizer.** Scoop the gel out from 1 large leave of aloe vera and add it to a blender with 1 cup (240 ml) of water and 3–4 drops of peppermint oil. Blend the ingredients together and strain the mixture into a spray bottle. Spray your hair in the morning and evening to help keep your hair soft.
Keep the mixture in your fridge for up to 1–2 weeks so the aloe doesn’t spoil.
Some studies have shown that peppermint oil can help stimulate hair growth, so it works perfectly if you want to mix it into a moisturizer.
8. **Treat acne with a mix of aloe gel with basil oil.** Try adding about 5 drops of basil oil to 1 tablespoon of aloe gel to make a 2% mixture. After you wash your face, massage the basil and aloe mixture into your skin. Try to apply the serum twice a day in the morning and again in the evening before bed.
Basil essential oils have anti-inflammatory properties and improve skin conditions like acne, but aloe can make it even more effective.
9. **Soothe inflammation with aloe and lavender oil.** Just mix 1 drop of lavender oil in 1 teaspoon (4.9 ml) of aloe gel and stir it together. Put the gel in your fridge for 5 minutes so it has a cooling effect on your skin. Use a cotton swab to rub the gel onto your skin to get relief from inflammation.
This also works well on acne and rashes.
Lavender oil has a relaxing scent and some studies have found that it helps treat inflamed skin. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Mix-Aloe-Vera-Gel-with-Oils", "language": "en"} |
How to Understand Bright's Disease | Bright's disease is an older term for the broad diagnostic category now called glomerulonephritis. This is a condition with multiple underlying causes, all of which are characterized by injury and inflammation to the main (microscopic) filtration structure of the kidney called the glomerulus. Glomerulonephritis generally presents as a constellation of findings that include hematuria (blood in the urine either gross or microscopic), proteinuria (protein in the urine), edema (swelling of the body), and often hypertension (high blood pressure). Understanding what glomerulonephritis or Bright's disease is can help you determine whether you or someone you know may have a family history of kidney disease.
1. **Learn the contemporary terms.** Though initially named after the disease's discoverer, the term "Bright's disease" has largely been removed from contemporary medical literature and discussions of kidney disease — in fact, your doctor might not know what you are referring to if you use it. Instead, Bright's disease as a diagnosis has been superseded by the contemporary medical terms "nephritis" or "glomerulonephritis" (GN).
The term Bright's disease is most often found today by people researching their genealogy.
2. **Understand the underlying causes.** There are two types of GN: acute and chronic. Acute GN may be caused by some other illness like strep throat or granulomatosis with polyangiitis. Chronic GN can run in families, but often the cause is not known. A person may suffer an acute attack and then develop chronic GN later on. Other causes may include:
Lupus
Bacterial endocarditis
Viral infections (such as (HIV, hepatitis B, and hepatitis C)
Goodpasture's syndrome
Polyarteritis
Diabetic kidney disease
Focal segmental glomerulosclerosis
3. **Know the effects.** Chronic kidney diseases affect the kidney's ability to function at a normal, healthy level. The loss of kidney function has subsequent effects on the rest of the body, including the body's ability to:
Filter waste out of the blood
Maintain normal blood pressure
Produce vitamin D
Produce erythropoietin, which helps produce red blood cells
4. **Identify the symptoms.** GN has some variance of symptoms, depending on the particular causes and conditions of the disease; however, the typical symptoms include:
Pink or cola-tinted urine, caused by red blood cells in the urine
Foam in the urine caused by excessive protein content
High blood pressure
Fluid retention, especially in the face, hands, feet, and abdomen
Weight gain (mainly caused by fluid retention)
Fatigue, usually accompanied by anemia and/or kidney failure
5. **Get tested.** In addition to the presence of telling physical symptoms, there are a number of tests that can confirm a diagnosis of GN. Common tests include the following:
Urine analysis to check for red and white blood cells, increased protein levels, or increased levels of creatinine and urea
Blood tests to measure for levels of waste products like creatinine and blood urea nitrogen
Ultrasound
Biopsy of the kidney
6. **Recognize the stages of kidney disease.** Kidney disease is categorized as a chronic and progressive disease. Each stage of the disease is marked by its own symptoms and the gradual loss of kidney function, measured by the kidney's Glomerular Filtration Rate (GFR). The stages of kidney disease are:
Stage one — Marked by mild symptoms and normal GFR of at least 90 percent of normal kidney function.
Stage two — Marked by mild symptoms and reduced GFR, with the gradual reduction of kidney function to between 60 and 89 percent of normal function.
Stage three — Marked by moderate symptoms and significantly reduced GFR, with kidney function ranging between 40 and 59 percent of normal function.
Stage four — Marked by severe symptoms and drastically reduced GFR, with kidney function ranging between 15 and 29 percent of normal function.
Stage five — The kidneys operate at less than 15 percent of normal function.
7. **Treat underlying conditions.** Because many cases of GN are caused by underlying conditions, your treatment plan may include treating those conditions. This treatment plan will vary, depending on what conditions are causing your kidney disease. Talk to your doctor about your condition, and understand how it may impact your kidney health.
8. **Control the immune system.** Medications like corticosteroids can help decrease immune system responses like inflammation, which is a common problem for people with kidney diseases and disorders; however, corticosteroid use carries the risk of significant side effects, including increased appetite/weight gain, sudden and significant mood swings, delayed healing of injuries, weakened bones, diabetes, and high blood pressure.
9. **Take blood pressure medication.** Chronic kidney diseases often affect the body's ability to regulate its blood pressure. Because of this, many treatment plans include taking blood pressure medication. In addition to regulating the body's blood pressure, these medications can also reduce the amount of protein released through your urine, which may help you manage the symptoms of the disease.
Common blood pressure medications prescribed to treat kidney diseases like GN include benazepril (Lotensin), captopril (Capoten), and enalapril (Vasotec).
Some doctors may also prescribe angiotensin II receptor blockers like losartan (Cozaar) and valsartan (Diovan) to achieve similar results.
10. **Try water pills.** Diuretics like water pills can help reduce water retention. Decreasing water retention will help manage swelling in the body and can increase your kidneys' ability to function by increasing water output.
Common water pills prescribed for kidney diseases include furosemide (Lasix) and spironolactone (Aldactone).
11. **Use blood thinners.** Blood thinners, also known as anticoagulants, reduce your blood's ability to form clots, which may help prevent blood clots in your body (specifically the kidneys). This may help manage the symptoms of kidney disease and improve your kidneys' ability to function.
Common anticoagulants prescribed to treat kidney diseases include heparin and warfarin (Coumadin).
12. **Reduce your cholesterol.** The efficacy of taking cholesterol medication (also known as statins) for kidney disease is unclear; however, some studies suggest that taking cholesterol medications may help reduce the risk of death in some people.
Commonly-prescribed statins for people with kidney diseases include atorvastatin (Lipitor), fluvastatin (Lescol), and lovastatin (Altoprev, Mevacor).
13. **Make lifestyle changes.** There is no known way to prevent all types of kidney disease. But some studies suggest that practicing good hygiene — including engaging in safe sex and refraining from intravenous drug use — may help prevent viral infections (such as hepatitis and HIV) that could eventually lead to chronic kidney disease.
14. **Change your diet.** Some people find that making dietary changes can help manage some of the symptoms of GN. Common dietary recommendations for people with kidney diseases include:
Choosing lean protein over fatty proteins
Lowering the overall consumption of fat and cholesterol in the diet
Maintaining a low-salt diet
Reducing potassium in the diet
Maintaining a healthy, manageable body weight
Avoiding smoking | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Understand-Bright%27s-Disease", "language": "en"} |
How to Have a Great Morning and Night Routine (Girls) | Do you find that your days are chaotic and you can’t get off on the right foot or end in a peaceful way? Studies have shown that people who follow a daily routine are more likely to feel prepared and less stress about the day. By establishing a regular and predictable morning and evening routine, you can have a wonderful and easygoing day.
1. **Wake up to cheerful music.** Getting out of bed is often the hardest part of the day. Set your alarm to your favorite song. It will help you feel happy, and help you begin your day.
Figure out your wake up time based on what time you need to get to school or work and how long your routine may take. For example, if you have to be at work or school at 8 and it takes you an hour to get ready and a ½ hour to commute, you need to wake up no later than 6:30 am. Build in a cushion in case you run late.
Avoid using an alarm that plays loud and banging music or that has annoying high-pitched noises.
Open your eyes and let them get used to the light.
Sit up and then slowly get out of bed.
Try some light stretching or yoga to get your blood flowing.
2. **Eat breakfast daily.** Studies show that breakfast is an important meal because it gives you the energy and nutrients to get through your day. Eat a healthy breakfast every day to minimize the risk of having a mid-morning slump or low blood sugar, which can make you cranky.
Have 2-3 foods and include at least one item from the following groups: bread and grain, milk and milk products, and fruits or vegetables. For example, you could have a slice of toast, a cup of yogurt, a banana and cereal for a healthy breakfast.
Keep portable options like breakfast bars and fruit like apples and bananas for times when you’re running late.
Consider setting out breakfast items the night before. This can help streamline your routine.
3. **Take a shower** After a night of sleep and maybe sweating, not only can a shower clean you, but it may also help you wake up better. An evening shower, on the other hand, can help you decrease your stress level and sleep peacefully.
Use warm water between 36 and 40 degrees Celcius (or 95 to 105 degrees Fahrenheit) so that you don’t scald yourself. Check the temperature with a thermometer or stick your hand and foot in the water stream for a second.
Use a cleanser or soap that is gentle and has a neutral pH.
You may want to consider brushing your teeth in the shower to conserve water.
Dry yourself off completely.
4. **Apply skincare products and deodorant.** Once you’ve lightly patted your skin dry, you can apply skin products as you need them. They will keep your skin soft and may help control any acne you have. Deodorant keeps you smelling fresh and keeps body odor at bay.
Use a separate moisturizer for your face and body. The skin on your face is thinner and can be prone to breakouts. Make sure to use a product formulated for your skin type.
Apply any treatment creams for acne or other conditions before your moisturizer.
Consider warming the moisturizer between your hands or fingers before application. This may help it absorb more quickly.
5. **Put on “your face.”** If you wear any makeup, put it on your face once your moisturizer has soaked into your skin. Once you’ve finished your makeup you can do your hair.
Streamline your makeup routine so it is as light as possible. This can save you time and help you look natural.
Consider keeping your hairstyle as simple as possible, to help you save time. If you want to try something more elaborate, do a style that you can get easily overnight. For example, if you want waves or curls, you can either put your hair in a bun or braid it before you go to bed. After your shower, take it out and let your curls fall.
6. **Get dressed.** Put on your clothing and accessories for the day once you’ve got your makeup on and hair done. Getting your outfit together the night before can help save time and prevent a stressful situation where you don’t know what to wear.
Make sure your clothes are ironed or free of wrinkles. One easy way to release wrinkles is by hanging your clothes in the bathroom while you shower. The steam can help get rid of minor bumps and wrinkles.
Consider taking layers in case you go outside. For example, you might want to take a cute cardigan or jacket if you go out for drinks after class or work.
Put on any jewelry you’d like to wear.
Spray a nice, light perfume on yourself. It may help people remember you because studies have shown that scent is closely tied to memory.
7. **Gather items for your day.** If you are going to school or work, collect anything you need for the day. This might include a lunch, pens, your phone, or books.
Keep a list on the refrigerator or other place you can see so you know what you need every day. You can also keep notes in your phone.
Consider putting out most of your belongings the evening before so you don’t forget anything or cause yourself undue stress.
8. **Check yourself one last time.** Before you head out the door to tackle the day, give yourself one last check. This can help you see if your clothing doesn’t match, your hair is out of place, or you’ve forgotten any items you need for the day.
9. **Finish remaining work.** If you have any work from school or your job to do once you get home, finish it a few hours before you go to bed. This can help you relax and make it easier to get into your evening routine and fall asleep.
Get as much done at work or in school as possible so you can enjoy a more relaxed evening.
10. **Prepare for the next day.** Get your stuff together for the next day as much as possible. This can minimize your risk of being late and also help you have a stress-free morning, which will help you start the day out right.
Set out the clothing you want to wear or a couple of options. Make sure the clothes are ironed if necessary.
Pack your lunch or any snacks you’ll have.
Get breakfast items, such as bowls, foods, and glasses, ready. You may also want to set your coffee machine alarm so you have warm coffee when you get up.
11. **Create a cozy bedroom.** Get your room ready for bed a couple of hours before you plan to go to sleep. A cozy environment helps you fall asleep quickly stay asleep through the night.
Set the temperature between 60-75 degrees and open a window or run a fan to keep the air circulating.
Remove electronics from your room, which can stimulate and stress you.
Block out any sources of light. If you need a nightlight, consider a non-stimulating color such as red.
Fluff up your mattress, pillows, and sheets so it feels like a cloud.
12. **Stick to a fixed bedtime.** Aim to go to bed at about the same time every night. This helps regulate your body clock and can help you to have a more restful night.
Set your bed time so that you can get 7-9 hours of sleep a night and so you have time to shift into bedtime mode. For example, if you need to get up at 6:30am, you would need to be in bed by 11:30pm at the latest.
Start shifting into bedtime mode about 2-3 hours before your set bedtime.
13. **Shift into bedtime mode.** After a long day, your body needs time to relax and slow down. Give yourself at least an hour before your bedtime to help you relax and fall asleep more easily.
Avoid electronics or devices if you can because they may stimulate your brain, making it hard to relax and fall asleep.
Dim lights in your room to signal your brain and body it’s slowly time for sleep.
14. **Establish a bedtime ritual.** As your shift into bedtime mode, follow a pre-bed ritual. Try activities to relax and prepare you for bed.
Remove your makeup and wash your face with warm water.
Choose entertainment that you can do in dimmed light like reading or stroking your pet.
Drink warm milk or herbal tea, like peppermint, lavender or chamomile to relax yourself.
Take a warm bath to further relax you and help you get drowsy.
Give yourself a massage. There is some evidence that massaging essential oils on to your feet or temples may help you relax and sleep. Make sure to brush your teeth thoroughly for at least 2 minutes.
Set your alarm.
15. **Tense your muscles in bed.** Using a relaxation drill of tensing your muscles can help relax you. This can rid you of any lingering stress as well as help you fall and stay asleep.
Tense each of your muscle groups tightly for five seconds starting with your feet and working towards your head. Release muscles after five seconds and take a deep breath before starting the next group.
16. **Stay in bed.** If you are overstimulated or not tired, get into bed at a set time every night. Getting into a cozy bed and bedroom environment can help you relax and fall asleep.
Get up if you can’t fall asleep within 20 minutes. Try doing something relaxing like reading in dimmed light or listening to white noise. Get back into bed after 20 minutes, and repeat the pattern until you fall asleep. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Have-a-Great-Morning-and-Night-Routine-(Girls)", "language": "en"} |
How to Use Chakra Stones | Do you feel like you could use a pick-me-up? Are your emotions and energy a little “off” recently? If so, you may want to experiment with chakra stones. You can use them to help you meditate, perform rituals with them, or even turn them into jewelry to bring them around with you all day. In this article, we’ll walk you through everything you need to know about chakra stones.
1. **Ask a friend to help you meditate.** It’s much easier to have someone lay the stones on you than it is to lay the stones on yourself. Ask someone that you trust, such as a close friend or family member, if they would be willing to meditate with you and lay the stones on your body.
2. **Find a private, quiet space.** Choose a time and place to meditate where there won’t be any distractions. Make sure to close the door and turn your phone off before starting.
Try meditating in a guest bedroom or a room/space where you can feel the energy to be relaxing. You can also try going outside if the weather is nice.
3. **Lay comfortably on your back.** Lay on a comfortable, flat surface in the space you’ve chosen to meditate in. A bed, couch, or carpeted floor are all good options.
4. **Focus on receiving each stone’s energy.** Have your friend place each stone on your body one at a time. The stones should be placed in the correct areas in order to stimulate your chakras. As each stone is placed on your body, focus on the color and energy of that stone. Visualize the energy penetrating into your body and being delivered to the particular chakra.
5. **Lay quietly for twenty minutes.** Once all of the stones are on your body, lay still for twenty minutes without moving or speaking. Keep your eyes closed and focus on taking deep breaths in through your nose and out through your mouth. Let any thoughts that pop into your head come and go; try not to hang onto them.
6. **Buy chakra stones online or at a crystal shop.** Going online is the easiest way to purchase your chakra stones. Search for “chakra stone kits” or “chakra stones” on reputable websites, such as Amazon.com or Etsy.com, and scan through the different options that come up. You can also go into a crystal or gemstone shop if you’d prefer to select all of your stones individually.
7. **Place a red or black stone on your groin.** You should start by putting a ruby, black tourmaline, or red jasper stone centered on your groin area. This area is known as the root chakra, which has influence over how grounded you feel and sexually comfortable you are.
You can also place this stone at your feet instead of on your groin.
8. **Put an orange stone on your pelvis.** Work your way up to the next chakra, which is the sacral chakra. Place an orange stone, such as amber or carnelian, on your pelvis. This chakra is mostly associated with emotional health and creativity.
9. **Set a yellow or gold stone just above your navel.** Next, place yellow apatite, citrine, or another similarly colored stone on the solar plexus chakra. This chakra is located just above your belly button and deals heavily with personal power.
10. **Place a green or pink stone over your heart.** Morganite and Dioptase are both good stone options for the fourth chakra, which is the heart chakra. This chakra handles your emotions of love and hate.
11. **Put a blue stone on your throat.** Rest a blue stone, such as larimar or lapis lazuli, at the center of your neck. This is where the throat chakra is located, which tends to be associated with truthful expression.
12. **Set a purple stone on your forehead.** Go with a Charoite or Purpurite stone for the third eye chakra. Place the stone on the center of your forehead close to your eyebrows. This chakra deals with your ability to ‘see’ in the psychic and spiritual sense.
13. **Press a white, clear, or violet stone against the top of your head.** Take an amethyst or nirvana quartz and gently press it against the top of your head. Then place the stone just above your head on the bed or floor. Knowledge and higher consciousness are impacted by the state of this chakra, called the crown chakra.
14. **Have someone remove the stones in reverse order.** Once you’re finished with the stones, they should be taken off of your body in reverse order. Start with the white stone at your crown area and work your way down the body.
15. **Stimulate the root chakra to deal with lack of control or discipline.** If you find yourself overreacting angrily to small things or unable to get a grip on your life, you might be having issues with your root chakra. Attempt to heal this chakra if you want to go from feeling spacey and disorganized to safe and secure.
Healing this chakra may also have positive effects on some physical issues such as chronic back pain, colon problems, and prostate problems.
16. **Heal your sacral chakra if you have little energy and motivation.** If you have problems with your sacral chakra, you may often find yourself lethargic and/or frustrated. You may also have issues with blame, guilt, money, or relationships, and have a “woe is me” attitude.
Problems with this chakra often result in physical issues such as bladder infections, irregular menstruation, and muscle tension.
17. **Gain power and confidence with a healthy solar plexus chakra.** You may be struggling with your solar plexus chakra if you often have nervous butterflies in your stomach. You may also be sensitive to others’ criticism and have difficulty with trust.
Healing this chakra may help with physical problems, such as eating disorders, indigestion, and arthritis.
18. **Radiate love with a healed heart chakra.** If you get too attached to others or can’t seem to connect with others enough, you may have a problem with your heart chakra. Healing this chakra may change your feelings of bitterness and loneliness to feelings of compassion, forgiveness, and hope.
Physical issues such as asthma, breast cancer, and heart disease are all associated with this chakra.
19. **Tend to your throat chakra to improve communication.** If you don’t often think before you speak or if you struggle to be articulate, you may need to work on your throat chakra. Struggling with this chakra sometimes means being unable to give your honest opinion or speak up for yourself.
Healing the throat chakra may help with physical conditions like chronic sore throat, dental issues or thyroid issues.
20. **Increase perceptiveness and openness with your third eye chakra.** If you don’t trust your “gut,” there might be something blocking your third eye chakra. Frequent nightmares indicate problems with this chakra as well. You may also find that you have trouble with feeling adequate and being open-minded.
This chakra is thought to have influence over dizziness, blindness, and neurological problems.
21. **Stimulate your crown chakra to work on ethics and spirituality.** You might need to heal your crown chakra if you feel lost, confused, and without purpose. This chakra is said to involve your personal values, faith, and your ability to see the ‘big picture.’
Healing your crown chakra may result in the improvement of chronic migraines and neurological disorders. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Use-Chakra-Stones", "language": "en"} |
How to Transfer Mineral Rights | Mineral rights are legal rights to any mineral on a piece of land. Minerals include gold, silver, coal, oil, and gas. If you want to transfer the rights to these minerals to another party, you can do so in a variety of ways: by deed, will, or lease. Before you transfer mineral rights, you should confirm that you own the rights that you seek to transfer.
1. **Understand the different types of mineral rights.** Generally, there are four types of mineral rights that you might own. They include:
The right to the oil, gas, or mineral deposits. This is the most expansive right to have. With this right, you can extract the minerals or contract with another party to extract them for you. You may own mineral rights in conjunction with the surface rights to the property, or you may own just the subsurface mineral rights (while someone else owns the surface of the land).
A lease agreement to the minerals. You may have contracted for a lease. A lease generally lasts for a specific set of time. While the lease is in force, you have the right to enter the property and determine if there are suitable minerals. You may also mine the minerals for the duration of the lease.
A right to royalties. You might have a right only to royalties on the sale of minerals, particularly when they are mined by another party operating under a lease. The lease agreement fixes the amount of the royalties.
A combination of the above.
2. **Identify why you want to transfer the rights.** People can transfer mineral rights for a variety of reasons. One common reason is that you want to sell the rights to another party for money. You can sell the minerals or lease them to another party. Also, if you already have a lease or right to royalties, you may want to assign them to another party in exchange for money.
Also, people who do not sell their mineral rights may want to transfer those rights to their heirs in a will or a trust. In this way, they can make sure that specific people receive the mineral rights.
3. **Confirm that you own the mineral rights.** Before transferring the rights, you should confirm that you actually own the rights that you want to transfer. If you want to transfer rights to the minerals themselves, then you must confirm that you own them. Although you might own the land that sits on top of the minerals, you should check that the mineral rights were not separated from the rest of the land at an earlier time.
To search for mineral rights, you will have to search the chain of title. As you search, you will look to see if mineral rights were severed from the land and transferred to someone else before you were deeded the property.
For more information on how to perform a title search, see Find Mineral Rights.
If you are trying to transfer a right to royalties or a lease, then you should look for a royalty or lease agreement. If you cannot find them, then contact the party you contracted with. That person is probably the owner of the surface land.
4. **Determine which minerals to transfer.** You might own many different kinds of minerals on a plot of land. You can choose to transfer rights to some minerals but reserve to yourself the rights to other minerals. Think about which minerals you want to transfer and which ones you want to keep.
5. **Seek the assistance of an attorney.** You should meet with an attorney to discuss transferring mineral rights. A qualified attorney will be able to advise you on the best way to transfer rights. An attorney can also advise you regarding whether you should transfer mineral rights at all. Since mining for minerals might impact the surface of the land, you might decide not to transfer any rights.
An attorney can also help draft any legal document that you will need. If you want to add mineral rights to a will, then the lawyer can draft a codicil to your will. An attorney may also draft a lease and help you in lease negotiations, especially if you are negotiating with a large corporation.
To find an experienced attorney, you should visit your state’s bar association, which should run a referral program. Look for an attorney who specializes in either mineral rights or in oil and gas. If you cannot find any attorney with those specializations, then seek someone experienced in land use or real estate law.
6. **Transfer by deed.** If you want to sell the mineral rights to another person, you can transfer them by deed. You will need to create a mineral deed and have it recorded.
You should check with the county Recorder of Deeds in the county where the land is located and ask if a printed mineral deed form is available to use. You can then fill it out with the necessary information.
If your county does not have a mineral deed form, then search on the internet for one. You can also ask an attorney to draft one for you.
Sign in front of a notary. You will need to have the deed notarized. There should be a notary at the Recorder of Deeds office. Be sure to bring sufficient personal identification, such as a valid driver’s license.
Record the deed. The Recorder of Deeds should then send copies to the person granted mineral rights by the deed.
7. **Transfer by will.** You can put mineral rights in your will. After your death, the rights will pass to the beneficiaries listed in the will. If no specific beneficiary is listed, then the mineral rights will pass to whoever is named the beneficiary of your residuary estate.
To draft a codicil to your will, see Write a Codicil. You are strongly encouraged to meet with a lawyer to look over your will and make sure that you have followed the proper formalities.
If you are interested in transferring your mineral rights to your heirs, then you should think about creating a family holding company and transferring the rights to the company, such as a limited liability company (LLC) or a partnership. Because this is a complicated process, you should talk with an estate planning attorney.
8. **Transfer with a lease.** If you want to lease mineral rights to a third party, then you will need to create a contract. With the lease, you as the owner grant to the lessee the right to develop and produce minerals on the parcel of land that is leased.
Leases typically include a “bonus” paid by the lessee to the owner when the lease is signed.
Leases also typically incorporate royalty provisions, under which the lessee will pay the owner money made from the extraction and development of the minerals. Should no minerals be extracted, then leases often contain provisions for the payment of rent.
Often, the lessee drafts the lease contract. However, if you are the owner and need to draft the contract, then consult with an attorney. The attorney can also help you value the worth of the minerals on your land, so that you can bargain for a fair royalty rate. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Transfer-Mineral-Rights", "language": "en"} |
How to Start Riding an ATV | Riding an all-terrain vehicle, or ATV, can be a fun and exciting way to explore the great outdoors. But, ATVs are powerful machines, and you need to know how to safely and properly ride one before you start blazing down an offroad trail. Be sure to have the proper safety equipment, choose an appropriate ATV to ride, and don’t try any tricks when you’re starting out. While you’re learning to ride, choose a wide-open space so you can practice picking up speed, shifting gears, and taking turns properly. For the best preparation, take a formal ATV riding course.
1. **Choose an appropriate ATV for you to start riding.** A sports quad is a good starter ATV for an adult who can reach the handlebars and gear shift in the footrest. A youth ATV is more appropriate for a younger person getting started because they’re lighter and shorter. You could also choose a utility ATV if you plan to use it for work purposes and you need to learn how to ride it.
Try sitting on an ATV to make sure it feels comfortable and you can reach all of the handles and gears.
Using an ATV that is too large, powerful, or unwieldy for you could result in an accident.
2. **Wear protective gear when you ride.** ATVs are powerful machines and can cause you serious injury if you’re in an accident. To better protect yourself, wear proper equipment. Before you ride, put on a pair of boots, gloves, safety goggles, and a helmet.
Wearing protective gear will reduce your chances of getting injured, especially if you’re new to riding.
Make sure the helmet and gear fit properly and allow you to see properly.
You can find ATV protective gear at ATV supply shops, at sports and outdoor stores, and online.
3. **Use nerf bars when you’re learning to ride.** Nerf bars are large foot pegs that fit onto your ATV to widen the footing area, which makes it easier for you to keep your footing, especially when you’re starting out. When you choose your ATV, go with one that has nerf bars or have them installed so you can learn to ride more safely.
You can find nerf bars at sports and outdoor stores, at ATV supply stores, and online.
Nerf bars also make it easier for you to learn how to turn, use the clutch, and shift gears.
4. **Keep both feet on the foot pegs at all times.** Your feet need to always be placed in the footing area of the ATV to ensure your safety. The footing area is where the clutch and the gear shift is located, so it’s important that you’re ready to shift gears if necessary. You could also get your foot or leg snagged on something when you’re riding if any part of your body is hanging out of the ATV.
Hanging a leg outside of your ATV can also shift your weight off-balance, which can cause the ATV to tip or you to fall off.
5. **Avoid riding on paved roads to avoid getting hit by a vehicle.** ATVs are meant to be ridden offroad, so driving them on a paved street or highway is actually bad for their tires. You could also accidentally be hit by a passing vehicle. Only ride on paved roads when you’re crossing them to get to the other side.
It’s also against the law in many places to drive an ATV on a paved road.
6. **Don’t attempt any wheelies when you start riding an ATV.** A wheelie involves leaning your weight back to lift the front wheels off of the ground, and they can easily result in the ATV flipping over onto you. When you’re starting to ride, don’t be tempted to try a trick that can result in serious injury.
7. **Check your local laws regarding ATVs before you ride.** Some locations may have designated areas for you to legally drive your ATV. You may also need to have a special license and proof of insurance in order to ride an ATV. Look online for your area’s rules and regulations about ATV riding.
Check your local government’s website for a list of rules regarding ATVs.
8. **Ride in an open area without any obstacles when you’re getting started.** Choose a large, flat, open space that’s free of any hazards or obstacles that you could run into to practice riding your ATV. The controls will take some getting used to, so avoid steep terrain or an area that has a lot of vehicles or objects that you would need to navigate around.
An empty field or a large backyard would work as a suitable practice area.
9. **Turn the key and press the start button to start the ATV.** Put the key into the ignition and turn it to the start position. Then, press the start button, which is usually located on the right side of the handlebars. When the engine starts, allow it to run for about a minute so it can warm up.
If you’re riding in cold weather conditions, allow the engine to run for 5 minutes so it can heat up before you ride.
10. **Pull the clutch handle to place the engine into neutral.** On the left handlebar is a lever called the clutch. Pulling the clutch puts the engine into the neutral gear, which allows you to shift gears as you build up speed. To start moving, engage the clutch with your left hand so you can put the engine into gear.
While you’re in the neutral gear, your ATV can continue to roll forward, but you will not be able to add any speed.
You need to place the engine into first gear in order to start moving.
11. **Use your left foot to raise the gear shift lever to shift into higher gears.** With the clutch engaged, use your left foot to shift gears by lifting the lever located in the left footrest. Then, release the clutch to place the engine into gear so you can keep moving. As you build up speed, shift into higher gears.
Practice riding around, then slowly increase your speed, and work to shift into higher gears to get used to riding.
12. **Downshift into lower gears as you slow down your ATV.** When you’re decreasing your speed, you also need to shift back into lower gears. Hold the clutch with your left hand and press down on the gear shift lever with your left foot, then release the clutch. You’ll feel the lever click down as you downshift.
Shift into lower gears one at a time to allow your engine to adjust to the lower speeds and gears.
13. **Start braking with your right hand and gradually add your left hand.** The brakes of an ATV are controlled by levers to the right and left of the handlebars. The lever to the right controls the rear brakes, while the lever to the left controls the front brakes. Always start braking the rear wheels first by squeezing the right handle, and add additional braking power by slowly squeezing the left handle.
If you squeeze both brakes at the same time, you may tumble forward over the handlebars.
Squeezing the left handle to brake the front wheels only can cause the ATV to flip over.
14. **Lean into turns to keep the ATV from tipping.** Shift your weight in the direction that you’re turning to distribute the weight and keep your ATV from tipping over. If you’re turning left, lean to the left side of the ATV. If you’re turning right, lean right. Work to get used to distributing your weight so you can take turns at higher speeds.
It can help to stand up from the seat so you can lean further if you’re taking a harder turn.
15. **Take an ATV riding course to receive formal training.** The best way to make sure you’re properly equipped to start riding your ATV is to take a course from an experienced rider who can show you the ins and outs of your ATV. Look online for classes in your area that you can sign up for to receive formal instruction.
Ask your ATV dealer if they provide instruction or can recommend a course.
You may be required to take a certification course in order to be legally allowed to ride your ATV. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Start-Riding-an-ATV", "language": "en"} |
How to Make a Seed Bomb | Seed bombs (also known as seed balls) aren't always the domain of guerilla gardeners – they're actually a great way to propagate seeds, especially on a large scale or in poor soils. Using richer soil balls gives the seeds a head start and reduces the need for chemical fertilizers. Here's a simple way to go.
1. **Buy or harvest your seeds** Buy or harvest quality seeds that you know will grow well over a large area or in poor soils, without needing too much attention. Don't choose any plants that will cause ecological or other damage such as weeds, invasive plants, or ones that have destructive root systems. If you're not sure, find out which plants are problem plants for your area or region; don't just rely on general information because some plants might be ideal in their local environment but a rampant pest in yours.
Consider the entire habitat when selecting the seeds. Do you want seeds that will create an entire new habitat or do you just want seeds that will provide a few varieties of crops or plants? Heather C. Flores suggests that you can use anywhere from one variety of seeds to one hundred different kinds.
2. **Soak the seeds for an hour or overnight in a warm, but not boiling, weak seaweed solution or compost tea.** Discard any seeds that still float – seeds that float are mostly broken or damaged seeds that won't grow or that will have weak genetic stock.
3. **Prepare the seed bombs.** There are four main ways to go about making the seed balls:
Method 1. Purchase or secure some rich loam soil, or other clay type soils that can form a stable ball. The soil should be suitable for plants to grow in; make sure it's not too acidic. Shape the pure loam into a golf-sized shape ball using water to make it pliable and insert the seeds into each ball as you go, or sprinkle seeds in prior to shaping balls if easier.
Method 2: Use semi-dry, living compost (not sterilised) and powdered red clay. Mix one part seed mix, three parts compost, and five parts clay. Shape into a round ball with your hands, adding enough water to make it pliable. It should have the consistency of cookie dough.
Method 3. Alternatively, save up small biodegradable cardboard cartons, such as egg cartons or find biodegradable netting, such as old cotton stockings. Fill the egg cartons with the preferred soil and seed mix as above methods outline. Pinch the tips over so that the contents won't fall out. With stockings, you can fill them with a seed and soil mix, then twist, tie and cut them out much like you'd do if you were making sausages.
Method 4. Mix sawdust on a ratio of 5 parts sawdust to 1 part seed with a rapidly biodegradable, non toxic and preferably food safe glue and a small amount of seaweed extract. The mix should not be wet, but moist enough to form a ball. It's better to make this version in small batches.
4. **Allow the seed bombs to dry out for 24 hours.** Arrange the seed bombs on a dry tarpaulin or on sheets of newspaper laid out in a sheltered area such as a shed.
Here they are ready for use.
5. **Plant the seed bombs.** If you have a plot with rows already dug for planting, install a ball every few feet (meters), (or as recommended by the seed producer), then cover over with existing soil.
If you are looking to re-vegetate open space with grass or tree seeds, just throwing the seed balls will create a more random, realistic landscape, then bury them sufficiently to retain the moisture for the seed.
If you'd rather store the seed bombs for a bit, keep them in a cool, dark, and dry place for no longer than several weeks. It is best to use them when fresh though, as the seeds might begin to sprout!
6. **Watch for the growth.** If made correctly, the seedling will be visible within 2-3 weeks, or quicker in warmer conditions. The process doesn't really speed up germination time dramatically, but when the seedling starts growing it has ample nutrients directly at its roots so will grow quicker and more healthily.
7. **Find good potting soil.** Moisten heavily.
8. **Fill individual spots in an ice cube tray half full of wet dirt.** Place 1-2-3 seeds in the middle. Cover to the top with very wet dirt.
9. **Freeze to as low a temperature as your freezer can be set for.**
10. **When frozen, take out "dirt/seed cubes".** Dip into an organic fertilizer to lightly coat the cube. Refreeze until very cold.
11. **Take out of the freezer.** Put into a small cooler with some dry ice.
12. **Go out and throw the cubes to places you want your plants to grow.** | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Seed-Bomb", "language": "en"} |
How to Build a Model Lung | Building a model lung is a fun way to participate in a science fair, complete an assignment for class, or simply learn more about how the human body works. Creating a model lung is simple, and uses materials that you probably already have sitting around in your home. To make a model lung, you’ll need a plastic bottle, some straws, a few balloons, hot glue, and a pair of scissors. A utility knife will also make cutting through your bottle cap easy.
1. **Punch a hole in the bottom portion of your bottle with scissors.** Use a utility knife to make a small incision, no bigger than 1 inch (2.5 cm) in the side of your plastic bottle, 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) above the bottom. The incision should be horizontal– in other words, perpendicular to the bottle’s length.
A 20 fluid ounces (590 ml) bottle works best, but you can use a slightly larger plastic bottle as well.
2. **Cut the bottle into two pieces horizontally with your scissors.** Insert one of the scissor blades into the incision that you made so that half of your scissors are inside of the bottle. Hold the bottle firmly in your non-dominant hand, and cut all the way around the side of the bottle with your scissors so that you end up with two halves—one half with the bottle cap and one half with the base. Discard the bottom half of your plastic bottle.
3. **Use your utility knife to cut an opening in the bottle cap.** Hold the bottle cap in place with your nondominant hand and carefully puncture the top of the bottle cap with the tip of your utility knife. Once the tip of the blade is inserted into the plastic, rotate the cap with your nondominant hand while you carve a small circle into the cap by holding the knife at an 80-degree angle.
You may need to use a drill bit to puncture your hole if the bottle cap is too thick for a utility knife. In this case, use clamps to secure the bottle cap in place. If you don't feel comfortable using a drill, ask an experienced adult for help.
You’ll be inserting a straw through this opening, so don’t make the hole too big!
4. **Test your bottle cap by trying to fit a plastic straw inside.** Take a plastic straw and try to squeeze it through your bottle cap. If the straw fits and doesn’t fall out of the opening, your bottle is ready to go. It’s okay if the straw is a little snug inside the hole. A tighter fit is going to be easier to work with than a looser fit.
5. **Cut a plastic straw in thirds with your scissors.** Hold the straw in your non-dominant hand and cut it in thirds. Cut at an angle that’s perpendicular to the straw so that the places where you cut are even and flat. Use your scissors to cut each end of the straw’s sections at a 45-degree angle to make them pointy.
6. **Slide the pointed edges of two pieces of straw into the bottom of a larger straw.** Squeeze the tip of each straw and slide each inside the same opening at the bottom of an uncut straw. The two smaller sections that you already cut will rely on the tension inside the opening to keep them in place. Make sure the sections of straw are resting at a 45-degree angle away from the larger straw and are symmetrical.
7. **Glue the junction where your three straws meet with a hot glue gun.** Put a piece of paper down before using hot glue to cover the junction where your three straws meet. This will ensure that no air escapes when you’re using your lung. Wait 2-3 minutes to let the hot glue dry.
You can use electrical tape or duct tape if you don’t have any hot glue. Just don’t wrap it so tightly that you constrict the movement of air in the straw.
8. **Add hot glue to the inside lip of two balloons and put them on the straws.** Put a dollop of hot glue inside each balloon near the top of each balloon’s opening. Slide them over each of the branching straws so that the longer length of straw is still open. Squeeze the section where you added hot glue against each straw for 15-30 seconds so that they’re sealed over the opening of each straw.
Blow into the open end of your straw to test it. If the balloons expand, you’re ready to continue. If you hear air coming out, identify the leak and cover it with hot glue.
You can also use rubber bands or tape to keep your balloons attached to the straw, but the seal may end up being too tight.
9. **Slide the open end of your straw through the bottle cap.** You may need to pinch the opening of your straw to fit it through the hole as you slide it up through the bottle cap. Slide it until each balloon is inside the case of your bottle. Screw the bottle cap tight if it wasn’t already screwed on, and seal the area where your length of straw and bottle cap meet with hot glue.
You’ll have a long length of straw sticking out through the top of your bottle cap. You only need 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) of straw sticking out to make your lung work, so feel free to trim the rest of it off with your scissors.
10. **Cut another balloon near the neck with your scissors.** Pinch the top of the balloon between your index and middle finger on your non-dominant hand. Pull-on the bottom of the balloon with your thumb and ring finger to stretch it out. With the scissors in your dominant hand, cut the balloon about 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) from the top near the section where the balloon’s neck begins to fan out.
11. **Slide the balloon that you cut over the bottom of your bottle.** Spread the balloon out with both hands and stretch it evenly over the bottom of the bottle. It may take a couple of attempts since the plastic and the balloon are both flexible. Use a rubber band or tape to secure the balloon to the bottle by wrapping it around the area where they meet.
12. **Pull on the skin of the balloon at the bottom to use your lung.** When you pull on the balloon that’s covering the opening on the opposite side of the bottle cap, you’ll notice that the two balloons inside inflate and deflate as you tug on it. This happens because the pressure inside of the bottle is pulling on the balloons and allowing them to take in air—just like your lungs! | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Build-a-Model-Lung", "language": "en"} |
How to Become a General Contractor in Florida | As a general contractor, you are responsible for supplying the material, labor, and equipment for a construction project. To become a general contractor in Florida, you must pass a state issued contractor exam and have at least 4 years of work experience. Though the contractor exam costs money to take, it can help you find positions as a contractor through construction companies. As a licensed general contractor, you can work legally in Florida and maintain a stable career.
1. **Be over 18 years old and pass a background check.** You must have a clean record and be of age to apply to be a general contractor in Florida. You will need to provide your fingerprints for the background check.
2. **Have at least 4 years of experience in contracting in the U.S.** You will need to provide the names, dates, and locations of your employers in the United States to prove your work experience. You must have at least 1 year of supervisory experience as a contractor to qualify for licensing.
You will also need to have a licensed architect, engineer, or building official attest to your work experience.
It helps to work at multiple companies so you can get work experience, see how companies run, and meet people in the industry.
3. **Maintain a net income of at least $2,500-$20,000 USD.** The amount required for your net income will depend on the level of classification you are applying for. You will need to provide bank statements and a credit score report from the last 12 months to prove your net income.
This qualification will illustrate to the Florida Contractor Board that you are in good financial standing.
4. **Get general liability insurance that covers bodily injury and property damage.** The liability insurance should cover at least $300,000 USD for bodily injury and $50,000 USD for property damage. This will ensure you are protected as a contractor in the event of an injury or incident.
You will need to have documents from your insurance provider to prove you are covered.
5. **Decide if you are going to apply for a certified or registered license.** A certified license is slightly more expensive to get but it allows you to work as a contractor anywhere in Florida. A registered license is cheaper to get and allows you to work in specific local jurisdictions in Florida only.
Most people get the certified general contractor license as it gives them more freedom to work anywhere in the state.
6. **Study for the contractor’s exam.** The exam consists of 3 parts and you will have 9 hours total to complete the exam. You must score at least 70% to pass the exam. You are allowed to bring several reference books into the exam with you that cover Florida building codes and other regulations. Buy these books in advance and review them so you are familiar with the content before you take the exam.
The 3 parts of the exam are: Project Management, Contract Administration, and Business and Finance. You should be able to answer the questions using your experience and knowledge as a contractor as well as the books you are allowed to bring into the exam.
Enroll in an online study course for the exam if you are worried about not passing it.
7. **Register for the exam online and pay the exam fee.** The exam is administered in February, April, June, August, October, and December. Go online to register for the exam and choose the exam date that works best for you here: http://www.floridaexam.com/. You must take the exam to get a certified or registered general contractor license.
The fee for the exam will be around $200-$250 USD. You can pay for the exam by credit or debit card.
8. **Take all 3 parts of the exam.** You must take the first 2 parts of the exam in person at a test center in Tallahassee, Orlando, or Miami. You must pass the final part of the exam on the computer at Pearson VUE. The exam is open book so be sure to bring all the necessary reading materials with you.
9. **Complete the application form for the license and pay the application fee.** Once you have passed the general contractor exam, you can then send in an application form for the license. You must also pay a fee of $150-$250 USD to apply for the license.
You can find the application form for the license here: http://www.myfloridalicense.com/dbpr/pro/cilb/documents/CILB5A_Certified_Contractor_Individual_General.pdf.
10. **Send in your completed exam, your application, and supporting documents.** Make sure you put supporting documents like your bank statement, credit score report, and proof of employment in with your completed exam and your written application. Send the packet and the application fee to The State of Florida, Department of Business and Professional Regulation, 1940 North Monroe Street, Tallahassee, FL 32399-0783.
Once your application has been processed and approved, you will get your proof of certification in the mail.
11. **Have proof of your certification on hand.** You should receive a certification card that shows you are a general contractor that has been approved to work in Florida. Show potential employers that you have your certification to boost your chances of landing a position. Note you have your certification on your resume and in your job applications so employers are aware of your status.
12. **Apply for positions online or in person through construction companies.** Look for openings for general contractors through construction companies in your area. Check for a call for contractors for major construction projects. Visit construction companies in person to look for a position or contact them via email.
Have copies of your resume on hand to give to employers so they can review your credentials.
13. **Renew your contractor license before the expiry date.** As a general contractor, you are required to take 14 hours of continuing education courses to maintain your license. You can then apply to renew your license before it expires so you can stay certified in Florida. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Become-a-General-Contractor-in-Florida", "language": "en"} |
How to Safely Transfer a Patient | Transferring a patient from a bed to a chair or a stretcher can be a challenge, as you will need to support them properly to move them. Patients who cannot walk or put weight on their legs will need to be transferred regularly at home and in a hospital setting. As a caretaker, you will need to transfer your patients correctly so they are not at risk of being dropped or injured further. Learning the correct techniques will make this a safe and routine process for you and the person you are caring for.
1. **Wash your hands with antibacterial soap and water.** Lather your hands with the soap and wash them for 40-60 seconds so they are clean. This will ensure you are touching the patient with clean hands and are not exposing them to any germs.
2. **Tell the patient you are transferring them.** Explain the steps you are going to take to transfer them to a chair or a stretcher. Be clear about each step and how you are going to move them or support them. This will prepare them for the move so they are not caught off guard.
For example, you may say, “I am going to transfer you to this chair, supporting you with my arms,” or “My assistant and I are going to move you to this stretcher, supporting you with a slide board so the transfer is smooth.”
3. **Identify the patient’s dominant side.** Hold the patient’s hands, placing 1 hand in each of their hands. Ask the patient to squeeze your hands as hard as they can. Notice if 1 side feels stronger in your hands.
You can also test their feet by gripping each of their feet between your hands. Ask the patient to press down on your hands like they are pressing the accelerator of a car. Notice which side feels stronger in your hands.
4. **Check that the transfer area is free of any obstructions or slipping hazards.** Look around the transfer area for any loose cords or tubes and adjust these items so they are not in your way. You want to have your feet firmly planted on the ground in the transfer area so you are not at risk of slipping or losing your footing.
You should be wearing non-slip shoes to ensure you have a solid grip on the floor.
If you are transferring a patient from a bed, check that the wheels on the bed are in the locked position so it does not move or shift when you transfer the patient.
If you are transferring a patient in their home, move any area or throw rugs that could cause you to trip.
5. **Place the chair next to the patient’s bed on their dominant side.** Make sure the chair is within arm’s reach of you so you can get to it easily. If you are using a wheelchair, make sure the wheels are locked and swing away the foot rests at the bottom of the chair so the patient can slide into it easily.
Putting the chair on the patient’s dominant side will help you move them more easily, as they will be able to put more strength into you as you transfer them.
If there is an arm guard on the bed, lower it so it is not in the way.
6. **Use your hands to roll the patient onto the same side as the chair.** Gently turn the patient so they are on their side, facing the chair. Ask them to keep their arms tucked into their chest or under their head so they feel supported.
Try to roll the patient as close to the edge of the bed as possible when you shift them onto their side.
7. **Swing the patient’s feet off the edge of the bed and move them into a sitting position.** Place 1 arm under the patient’s shoulders and 1 arm behind their knees. Bend your knees as you swing the patient’s feet off the edge of the bed. Shift your weight to your back foot and gently ease them into an upright sitting position, facing you.
8. **Lower the bed using the bed controls.** Shift the patient to the edge of the bed and lower the bed so their feet are touching the ground. Make sure you support the patient’s upper body with your arm as you lower the bed to ensure they do not fall forward.
9. **Put a gait belt on the patient if they cannot stay upright on their own.** If the patient has suffered a stroke or other issues that affects their motor functions, attach a gait belt around their waist. The gait belt will also give you a better grip during the transfer so the patient does not fall out of your arms. Wrap the belt around the patient’s waist so it is snug, but not too tight. Tuck any extra fabric at the end of the belt into the belt so it is not a tripping hazard.
Do not use the gait belt as a handle or a way to pick up the patient. It’s purpose is to create friction when you lift the patient so they do not fall.
10. **Lock your hands behind the patient or at the gait belt.** Stand as close as possible to the patient and reach around their chest with your hands. Lock your hands together behind the patient, at their mid back. If they have a gait belt on, you can hold the gait belt between your hands and line up your arms with the belt to create friction.
11. **Place the patient’s outside leg between your knees.** The patient’s outside leg will be the leg furthest from the chair. Position their leg between your knees for support and bend your knees, keeping your back straight. Tell the patient you are going to count to 3, and on 3 you are going to stand up and lift them.
Make sure the patient keeps their hands by their sides so they can support themselves when you lift them. If the patient has strength in their legs, instruct the patient to support their weight with their legs as you transfer them.
12. **Stand and lift the patient, pivoting towards the chair.** Count out loud, “1-2-3.” On “3,” slowly stand up, using your legs to lift the patient. As you lift the patient, ask them to push off the bed using their hands. Shift the patient towards the chair, making sure your back is aligned with your hips.
13. **Lower the patient into the chair.** Once the patient’s legs touch the seat of the chair, bend your knees and slowly lower them into the seat. Have the patient reach for the armrests to support themselves as you lower them down.
If you are lowering them into a wheelchair, you can then reposition the feet guards and instruct the patient to put their feet in the guards so they are well supported in the chair.
Confirm the move went well by asking the patient, “How do you feel?” or “Feeling okay in the chair?” If they answer “yes,” you can wheel them away in the chair or let them sit in the chair on their own.
14. **Park the wheelchair next to the bed.** If your patient can stand and bear some weight, they can do a pivot transfer. Explain to your patient that you are going to move from the bed to the chair, or from the chair to the bed, as the case may be.
Angle the wheelchair 30-45 degrees from the side of the bed.
Make sure the bed is lowered so that it is level with the chair.
Put the brakes of the wheelchair on.
Move the footrests out of the way.
15. **Help your patient sit up from the bed.** If your patient is moving from the bed into a chair, have them sit up. Ask your patient to roll onto their dominant side, facing you, as close to the edge of the bed as they can get.
Put a hand behind their shoulders so that it supports their neck and top vertebrae of their back.
Instruct the patient to push up on their elbows and hold the side rails. Keep your hand on their back so you support their neck and shoulders. Do not let the patient put an arm over your shoulders.
Shift your weight slowly from the foot nearest them to the back foot, while you grasp their outer thighs and assist them in swinging their legs slowly over the side of the bed.
Lifting with your thighs, slowly raise the patient to a sitting position. Ask your patient to push down on the bed with the arm that is against it. If they are stronger, let them push themselves up.
Observe your patient as they sit. If they seem dizzy or start tilting, steady them and let them sit unassisted again.
16. **Help your patient stand up.** If your patient is not dizzy or tilting, help them complete a pivot transfer. Put a gait/transfer belt on them. Help them scoot so that their bottom is at the edge of the seat or bed. Check that both feet are firmly on the floor.
Instruct your patient to push up with their hands, leaning forward over their feet. They can then swing their bottom onto the bed and sit down.
Make sure to keep a hold on the gait belt to prevent your patient from falling.
Offer words of encouragement as you go if the patient is new to this. You might say, "Nice and slow. Both feet on the floor. Great work."
If your patient is pivoting from a bed into a chair, have them put their hands on the armrests and lower themself down.
17. **Get 1 person to assist you.** You will need another person to help you support and lift the patient onto the stretcher. Ask a peer, friend, or family member to assist you. Have them stand on the opposite side of the bed so they can support the patient on the side opposite from you.
18. **Line up the stretcher with the patient’s bed.** Make sure the top of the stretcher lines up with the top of the patient’s bed. Check that the stretcher’s wheels are locked and that the patient’s bed’s wheels are locked as well. Then, raise the height of the patient’s bed so it is 1 to 2 inches (25 to 51 mm) higher than the stretcher.
If the head of the bed is raised, lower it so it sits flat.
19. **Shift the patient to the edge of the bed and roll them away from you.** If the patient can move on their own, ask them to shift to the edge of the bed. If they cannot move on their own, you may need to shift them using your hands and your assistant’s help. Guide the patient onto their side, facing away from you. Have the patient bend their legs and keep their arms across their chest as they lay on their side.
20. **Lower the guard on 1 side of the bed and place the slide board under the patient.** Make sure the slide board sits under the bottom sheet so the sheet and the patient are both supported by the board. Form a bridge between the bed and the stretcher with the slide board, positioning it so it sits halfway under the patient and halfway out onto the stretcher.
Adjust the bottom sheet so it sits over the slide board.
Make sure the area around the stretcher is free of any cords, wires, or tubes so you are not at risk of tripping.
21. **Roll the patient onto their back so they are supported by the slide board.** Ask your assistant to help you by rolling the patient away from them, onto the slide board. Make sure their back is firmly on the bottom sheet and the slide board so they are well supported.
Check that the patient’s knees are still bent and their arms are still firmly across their chest.
22. **Slide the patient onto the stretcher with the help of your assistant.** Tell the patient that you are going to slide them on the count of 3. Have the assistant lower the guard-rail on their side of the bed. Then, count out loud to “3.” On “3,” slide the patient across the slide board, onto the stretcher. Your assistant should slide the patient over on their side of the bed.
Check that you and your assistant have a good grip on the bottom sheet and the slide board when sliding the patient.
It may be necessary for the assistant to get onto the bed to slide the patient over. Make sure they position themselves on their knees on the bed, not on the slide board, to move the patient safely.
23. **Remove the slide board and position the patient comfortably on the stretcher.** Once the patient is on the stretcher, roll them over to their side so they are facing you and remove the slide board. Leave the slide board on their bed. Roll the patient onto their back and slide a pillow under their head so they can rest comfortably on the stretcher. Adjust the bottom sheet so it lays flat on the stretcher.
Raise the guards up on the stretcher so the patient is supported.
Ask them if they are feeling okay on the stretcher to ensure they are comfortable. You may ask, “How do you feel?” or “Feeling okay on the stretcher?” If they answer “yes,” you are good to roll them away on the stretcher. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Safely-Transfer-a-Patient", "language": "en"} |
How to Calm an Autistic Child | Autistic children are often overstimulated by things like touch, sound, and light. They can also become overwhelmed and frustrated by unexpected events, such as changes in routine. Because autistic children often struggle to understand or communicate their experiences, they may have meltdowns. During a meltdown, a child may scream, flail wildly, destroy property, or even respond violently to others. Autistic children can frequently become agitated, so it is important parents know how to calm them down. Every child is different so try several techniques to find the ones that work best for your child.
1. **Figure out what triggered the meltdown.** Finding the cause can help you keep them away from whatever is upsetting them. This is important in calming an autistic child. Observe your child and try to figure out the triggers for certain behaviors. If a parent or guardian is aware of the child’s triggers, they may be able to avoid it.
Keep a notebook to record the child's common triggers will help you to prevent triggering meltdowns. You might also consider using a smartphone app to log meltdowns and their causes.
Some common triggers for meltdowns in autistic children are changes or disruptions in their normal routine, overstimulation, frustration and communication difficulties.
Meltdowns are different from tantrums. Tantrums are thrown on purpose, as a power play, and will stop once you give in. Meltdowns occur when an autistic person becomes so stressed that they cannot control themselves, and they feel powerless and will not stop until it has run its course.
2. **Stick to a routine.** When there is a routine to be followed, the child can predict what will happen next. This helps to keep the child calm.
Illustrated schedules can help the child visually see the routine for the day or week.
If you know that there will be changes to the routine on a given day, make sure you take the time to prepare your child. Talk to them beforehand and communicate these changes clearly and patiently.
When introducing your child to a new environment, it best if you do it when there is less stimuli. This means bringing your child at a time when there is less noise or fewer people.
3. **Communicate clearly with your child.** Verbal communication is a source of frustration for many autistic children. Talk patiently, respectfully, and enunciate clearly.
Avoid shouting or adopting an aggressive tone, as it may worsen the meltdown.
If verbal communication is difficult for your child, try communicating through pictures or other forms of AAC.
Remember that communication goes both ways. Always listen to your child, and make it clear that you value and respect what they have to say. Ask them questions if you need clarification to prevent frustration-related meltdowns.
4. **Distract the child if you suspect the cause is emotional/psychological.** When your child is upset, you can sometimes calm them down by diverting their attention. Try playing enthusiastically with a favorite toy, watching a favorite video, or listening to a favorite song. If possible, involve their special interests.
Distraction won't always work. For example, questions about your sister's rock collections might distract from her fears about getting a flu shot, but it won't fix things if her problem is that her dress seam feels like fire ants on her skin.
Once the child is calm again, it is a good idea to talk to them about what made them angry or stimulated them in the first place. Ask them what happened and work together to find ways to prevent it from reoccurring.
5. **Change the child's surroundings.** Your child may be upset because they are hypersensitive and overstimulated. When this happens, it's a good idea to simply bring the child to a different environment, or to change the environment (e.g. turning off loud music), to reduce overstimulation.
For example, if your child experiences fluorescent lights as a trigger, it is better to take your child to a room with alternative lighting, rather than forcing the child to put up with it.
If the child is in a location where the environment cannot easily be changed, take precautions. For example, you could give your child sunglasses (to prevent hypersensitivity to light) or earplugs (to drown out noise) to wear in public places. Brainstorm precautions with your child.
6. **Give your child some space.** Sometimes, children just need time before they feel ready to re-engage. Try letting them sit for a while to calm down, usually in any area with limited sensory stimuli.
Consider safety. Never leave a young child alone and unsupervised, or lock someone in a room. Make sure the child is safe and able to leave if they want.
7. **After the meltdown, discuss it with your child.** Use a solution-based approach: instead of blaming or punishing your child, talk about ways to prevent meltdowns and better cope with stress. Try talking about:
What the child believes caused the meltdown (Listen patiently).
How similar situations can be avoided in the future.
More effective coping strategies (taking a break, counting, using deep breaths, asking to leave, etc.).
An escape plan to end future meltdowns.
8. **Apply deep pressure.** Autistic children frequently have sensory processing differences, which can be stressful or even painful. Applying deep pressure causes muscles to relax.
Try wrapping your child snugly in a blanket or lay several blankets across them. The weight of the blankets will create soothing pressure, but be sure not to cover their face to prevent interfering with breathing.
You can order or create tools designed to provide deep pressure online. Weighted blankets, toys, vests, and lap pads are all possibilities.
9. **Give your child a deep pressure massage.** Massage is a good way for you to interact with your child, while applying deep pressure, which may strengthen the parent-child relationship. Position the child between your legs. Cup your hands on the child’s shoulders and apply pressure. Then, move your hands slowly over their arms and shoulders.
If you do not feel comfortable, consider asking a massage therapist for tips. Or, ask someone you know who gives really good back rubs.
10. **Try a pillow press.** A pillow press is done by positioning the child on a soft surface such as a pillow or a couch cushion. Let the child lie or sit down, then use a second pillow or cushion to apply deep pressure to the torso, arms and legs in a slow pulsating manner.
Never cover the child's face to prevent accidental suffocation.
11. **Understand how vestibular stimulation exercises work.** The vestibular system contributes to balance and sense of spatial orientation. Vestibular exercises help to calm the child down using swinging or rocking motions.
Repetitive motions sooth and refocus the child's attention on their physical sensation.
12. **Swing back and forth.** Place the child in a swing and gently push them. Adjust the swinging speed, slowing down or speeding up, until your child is calm. If swinging seems to make things worse, stop.
It may be a good idea to install an indoor swing to best incorporate technique. This can be accessed no matter what the weather is.
Some children can swing themselves. In this case, gently suggest they go to their swing.
13. **Twirl the child in a chair.** Spinning is a stimulating vestibular exercise. This activity will likely stop a meltdown by diverting attention from the trigger and redirecting it to physical sensation.
Office chairs tend to work best because they swivel easily.
Make sure the child is firmly seated and spin the chair slowly to avoid injury.
Some children will prefer to leave their eyes open, while others may close them. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Calm-an-Autistic-Child", "language": "en"} |
How to Repair Woodpecker Holes in Cedar Siding | When it comes to preferred wood to peck, woodpeckers love soft siding material such as cedar. If the siding of your home happens to be made of this material and you live near a wooded area, it will probably experience woodpecker damage at some point. Luckily, repairing woodpecker damage is a very simple and straightforward process, and if you follow it up with preventative steps to deter future wood pecking, you can be quickly rid of woodpecker damage forever.
1. **Chisel out the back interior of the holes.** Use a small chisel to slightly enlarge the inside of the hole, so that the back side is larger than the hole opening. This will prevent your repairs from popping out of the siding.
If there is anything behind the hole to hammer a nail into, you can also use a nail to achieve the same effect. Leave the head of the nail slightly exposed so that your epoxy putty will lock onto it when it expands.
2. **Fill the siding holes with wood filler.** Use a putty knife to force the filler inside the hole, making sure to fill in the hole and to completely cover the opening. Scrape away any excess with the putty knife when you’re done and allow it to air dry.
Epoxy putty is a commonly recommended wood filler for use in repairing woodpecker damage.
Overfill the entire hole in your siding when applying the filler; it’s critical that you leave no void uncovered, and excess putty is easily removed.
Make sure you fill the holes in your siding on a day with good weather, so the filler has enough time to air dry.
3. **Sand the filler down to even level with the undamaged wood.** Wait until the filler is completely dry, then use coarse sandpaper to sand it down to fit with the rest of your siding. You should be able to run your fingers over your original and damaged siding and feel only a slight difference between them.
4. **Paint over the filler to match the undamaged siding.** Clear away any leftover sanding dust from the wall, then paint over the filled area in the same shade as the surrounding cedar.
Make sure you do this on a day with sunny weather, so that the paint dries quickly after you finish.
5. **Use a hole saw to cut a circular hole over the damage.** If the woodpecker hole is 2 inches (5.1 cm) or larger in diameter, it will require a bit more work. Cut a circular or square-shaped hole to make the repair work easier.
Be sure to remove wood pieces and detritus from the hole you’ve just created before proceeding.
6. **Fill the hole with foam sealant.** With larger holes, you’ll need to make sure you add insulation in the back to create a nice weatherproof seal. For best results, use a sprayable foam with minimal expansion.
Don’t fill the entire hole with foam; leave about an inch of depth that your patch will go over.
It’s critical that you add sealant to the hole to avoid the patch you place over it from falling into it.
7. **Cut a patch out of plywood slightly smaller than the hole.** The patch will need to fit snugly into the hole, so cut it just slightly smaller in diameter. Be sure to cut a piece with the right depth to match the hole.
Your patch can also be made out of ordinary lumber, though plywood is often recommended.
If the diameter of the patch is too large at first, use sandpaper to sand it down to an appropriate size.
8. **Use wood filler to place the patch inside the hole.** Place wood filler around the edges of both the patch and the hole, and fit the patch into place. Scrape off any excess wood filler.
This can be the same wood filler used to repair smaller holes.
Don’t worry if the patch slightly juts out from the hole; this is easily repaired.
9. **Sand over and paint over the patch to match the rest of the siding.** Clear away any sanding dust from the wall, then paint over the filled area in the same shade as the surrounding cedar.
Make sure you do this on a day with sunny weather, so that the paint dries quickly after you finish.
10. **Eliminate any insect infestations in your wood.** This is the most important step in woodpecker deterrence. Although woodpeckers drill holes in wood for a variety of reasons, they will be more likely to do so in your home if there is food readily available.
To treat a carpenter ant infestation, locate the ant nest and fill the entrance with a dust insecticide to kill all the ants and the egg-laying queen.
To get rid of carpenter bees, locate the small holes they’ve bored into your wood and hang traps directly over them. You can also use dust insecticide to fill the holes and kill any eggs that have been lain.
11. **Hang ceramic predators and shiny objects on your structure.** Visual deterrents can be an ever-present means of frightening woodpeckers away from your cedar siding. Hanging ceramic animals and reflective objects on your siding will make woodpeckers think a predator is nearby.
Prowler owls and hawks with reflective eyes are particularly effective at warding off woodpeckers, as these are their natural predators.
Hang aluminum foil or brightly colored strips of plastic along your siding for a low-cost visual deterrent.
12. **Fright woodpeckers away with loud noises.** After being repeatedly greeted with loud, jarring noises, woodpeckers will eventually learn not to drill holes in your siding. Hand-clapping, firing toy pistols, and banging garbage can lids can all be used to frighten away woodpeckers.
If your structure is in an area with neighbors living close by, consider getting their blessing first before using loud noises to deter woodpeckers, or rely solely on visual deterrents.
Unless you’re physically available to make jarring noises nearly every time the woodpecker shows up, this method will probably not be as effective as using visually frightening objects.
13. **Use suet or bird feeders to lure woodpeckers away from your structure.** You may be able to prevent woodpecker drilling in your cedar siding by offering a tempting alternative at a distance from your structure. Place bird feeders near trees or other wooden structures to encourage woodpeckers to take up residence elsewhere.
Though you can use a normal bird feeder, you’ll probably have more success using suet, a high-calorie bird food.
Every few days, place your feeder further and further away from your structure until the woodpeckers stop drilling in your siding.
Check on your suet every so often and make sure squirrels are not eating from it as well. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Repair-Woodpecker-Holes-in-Cedar-Siding", "language": "en"} |
How to Get Ready for the First Day of High School | Whether you’re a wide-eyed freshman or a seasoned senior, the first day of school can be exciting. It’s a chance to see old friends, make new friends, and get a fresh start academically. But that doesn’t mean it isn’t a little nerve-racking as well. Luckily, you can shake off a bunch of these nerves with a little bit of preparation. By getting as much out of the way as possible ahead of time, you’ll give yourself plenty of breathing room to make the most of your first day.
1. **Get plenty of notebooks, pens, and pencils for school.** If your teachers sent out syllabuses ahead of time, scan each document to find the list of required materials you need to purchase before school starts. You don’t necessarily need to bring everything with you on the first day of school, but you don’t want to end up running around after the first day to purchase all of the supplies you need.
You probably want to purchase one dedicated notebook and folder for each class as well. Beyond that, you may want to get some white-out, a mini-stapler, highlighters, an eraser, and a pencil sharpener.
The first year of high school is a great occasion for a new backpack! Get something spacious and comfortable that fits your style.
2. **Get your bag ready the night before so you don’t have to rush.** If the first day is going to be orientation, you probably don’t need all of your textbooks. However, you should at least pack a notebook and something to write with. Make sure you bring a spare phone charger in case your phone dies. You may also want to bring chapstick and feminine hygiene products if necessary.
If you know you’re going to get a locker on day one, feel free to bring all of your books and supplies. This way, you can store whatever you don’t need at school.
3. **Go through your closet and pull out what you’re going to wear.** If your school has a set uniform, pull it out and set it aside for the morning. If they don’t, make sure your clothes aren’t in violation of your school’s dress code. You can wear whatever you’d like, but try to choose a top and bottom that are going to be comfortable.
Look up the weather forecast. If it’s supposed to rain, make sure your outfit is appropriate for the weather. Grab an umbrella and rain boots if you need them.
Pick something that reflects your personality and sense of style.
If you aren’t sure what to wear, some sneakers, jeans, and a basic shirt is a safe, comfortable bet.
4. **If you need to pay for lunch, get your money the night before.** If your school wants you to bring your own lunch, pack it and toss it in the fridge before you go to bed. If your school offers free lunches for students, double-check to make sure. Having a plan for lunch will keep you from sitting around the cafeteria with nothing to eat.
If you’re packing your own lunch, keep it simple. A sandwich, piece of fruit, and a granola bar is a solid choice.
5. **Your high school likely sent out several emails about the first day.** Review any communications from your school regarding the dress code, schedule, and requirements for the first day back. Day one is almost always orientation, so read through their announcements and letters to get a sense for what that’s going to entail.
At orientation, you’ll probably tour the school, hear an introduction from your teachers and principal, and go through the key policies and norms.
This is especially important for virtual learning. Your school will likely send out instructions for setting up your video conferencing software. Complete these steps well before the first day of school.
If your school sent a handbook out with their rules and policies, scan through it. It may keep you from accidentally showing up in inappropriate clothing or something like that.
6. **If you’ve got your class schedule, review it before the first day.** You can even make a cheat sheet listing each class and classroom number. Having a sense for what your class schedule looks like will give you a feeling for what your average day is going to be like. This is especially helpful if you’re a freshman and this is your first time transitioning on your own from class to class.
Some schools give you your schedule on the first day after orientation. If you don’t have your schedule yet, don’t worry about it.
Note your lunch period. If it’s a little later in the day and you tend to get hungry mid-day, be sure to eat breakfast. Most high schools won’t let you eat before your lunch period.
7. **You may be excited or nervous, but try to get some rest.** If you’re running on fumes the first day, you may end up missing important information or nodding off. Aim to get at least 8 hours of sleep before the first day. This way, you’ll wake up refreshed, excited, and ready to go!
Set an alarm for the morning. If you’ve ever slept through an alarm, set 3-5 different alarms to go off relatively close to one another. Plug your phone in before you go to bed so that it charges overnight and doesn’t die.
If you know you need to be up at 6:30 am, try to go to bed by 10:30 pm at the absolute latest. The more sleep you can get, the better.
Try to avoid staring at your phone, playing video games, or watching TV in the 2-3 hours leading up to bed. Bright screens can trick your brain into thinking it’s daytime, which can make it harder to go to sleep.
8. **Rushing to get out the door on time is a rough way to start the day.** Give yourself at least 30 extra minutes in the morning to eat, shower, and get ready. A little extra time will keep things relaxed and put you in a better headspace on the first day of school. It’s also important to be a little early if you’re taking a bus, since missing your bus could make you late.
Do your absolute best to not hit the snooze button. It may be hard to get up early after a long summer of relaxation, but do your best to get up when the alarm goes off.
You can shower the night before if you want to save a little time in the morning.
Getting to school early will also give you a chance to make some friends or meet your teachers before school starts.
9. **Drink a glass of water, shower, and brush your teeth.** If you bought yourself some time by getting up early, this should be a relaxing, smooth process. Take a warm shower, have a nice, tall glass of water, and brush or style your hair. Throw on the outfit you set aside the night before and get out the door on time (or a little early)!
If you’re wearing any perfume or cologne, go easy on the stuff.
If you showered the night before, go ahead and skip the morning shower. You may still want to wash your face just to wake up, though.
Listen to some upbeat music while you’re getting ready if you want to start the day on a positive note.
10. **A healthy breakfast will help carry you through the day.** Grab some fruit, oatmeal, eggs, cereal, or yogurt. Choose something light that won’t bog you down or make you feel stuffed all morning. This way, you’ll be alert, comfortable, and energetic during your day.
Some schools offer breakfast in the morning. If your school has breakfast, feel free to skip eating at home. But make sure that you eat something! | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Get-Ready-for-the-First-Day-of-High-School", "language": "en"} |
How to Replace the Bridge on an Acoustic Guitar | Over time, the bridge on your acoustic guitar can get damaged, warped, or fall right off. Temperature and humidity are often to blame for a damaged bridge, since these factors affect the glue that holds the bridge in place. However, heavy use can also damage the bridge or cause it to pop off. Whatever the reason for your bridge troubles, don’t worry—you can replace the damaged bridge with a brand new one fairly easily at home!
1. **Unwind and remove the 6 strings from your acoustic guitar.** Turn each tuning peg clockwise on the guitar neck to loosen the string attached to it. Once the string is loose, unwind the string from the peg. Then, follow the string down to where it’s connected to the bridge with a bridge pin. Push the string slightly toward the pin to loosen it, then pull the pin straight out.
Bridge pins are wooden pieces that hold steel guitar strings in place on most acoustic guitars. Some acoustic guitars don't have them, but most do.
If your acoustic’s strings are threaded through the bridge instead of held in place by pins, you can just pull the string gently to remove it.
If you plan to reuse your strings, place them carefully to the side. You can toss out the old strings if you plan to install a fresh pair.
2. **Trace around the old bridge lightly with a pencil or X-ACTO knife.** Doing this will help you later when you go to position the new bridge in place on the guitar body. All you need to do is lightly trace around the bridge with a regular pencil or gently score around the bridge with an X-ACTO knife to mark the position.
If your original bridge has already fallen off, that’s okay! You can measure for the perfect placement later on. It’s also quite likely that the original bridge left a vague but visible outline on the guitar body.
3. **Place a heating pad over the bridge for 1-2 minutes to loosen the glue.** The easiest way to detach a glued bridge is to heat up the glue until it softens so you can pry the bridge off. Place a regular heating pad directly over the bridge and let it for a couple of minutes to get the glue under the bridge nice and soft.
Avoid heating the bridge for longer than 2 minutes at a time. Prolonged heat exposure can damage the guitar’s finish.
If you don’t have a heating pad, place a thick towel over the bridge and run a clothes iron over the towel to warm up the glue.
4. **Wedge a putty knife between the bridge and guitar body.** Once the glue loosens up, carefully insert a flexible, blunt putty knife between the body and bridge. If you can’t insert the putty knife completely from 1 side of the bridge to the other, apply heat to the area for another minute. Then, continue slowly working the knife under the bridge.
You may need to apply heat several times to wedge the putty knife completely under the bridge.
Work slowly and take care not to damage the finish with the putty knife.
5. **Lift the putty knife and pull away the dislodged bridge.** Continue wedging the putty knife under the bridge and applying heat until the glue loosens up enough to disconnect the bridge from the body. Then, use the putty knife to lift the bridge away from the body.
You can set the old bridge aside or discard it. Typically, it can't be reused.
If the bridge simply popped off by itself and it isn't damaged at all, you can glue it back into place rather than buy a replacement bridge. If the bridge is cracked or warped in any way, you need a new one.
6. **Scrape off the excess glue on the guitar body with a chisel.** After you remove the bridge, there will probably be some glue residue stuck to the guitar body. Gently scrape the surface where the bridge was previously glued to get rid of the residue. Wipe the surface with a microfiber cloth to remove any glue bits before you proceed.
If you don’t remove the old glue from the guitar body, the new bridge won’t adhere well to the surface.
Be careful not to dig into the guitar finish or accidentally slip with the chisel.
7. **Buy a replacement bridge that is similar in size and shape to the original.** For most acoustic guitars, you can buy a pre-made replacement bridge at any music store. There are a few different universal bridge styles, so be sure to buy one with the same dimensions and shape as the original bridge so everything fits correctly, including the bridge pins.
If the original bridge popped off on its own and isn’t broken or damaged, you can re-glue it in place. Sand the back of the original bridge to remove any glue residue.
8. **Line up the new bridge with the traced outline and clamp it in place.** Use the outline you traced earlier as your guide to line up the new bridge in the proper position. Position a deep C-clamp in the guitar’s center hole and clamp the bridge in place. Once everything looks right, release the C-clamp and pull the new bridge away from the guitar body.
A regular C-clamp is too small for this. You need a deep C-clamp.
It’s important to do a “dry run” before you glue anything to your guitar. A “dry run” simply means to clamp the bridge in place and make sure everything is just right before applying glue.
If you want to be extra careful, you can double-check the bridge positioning with a straightedge and a level.
9. **Set up a bowl of water, a few rags, and a screwdriver on your work surface.** Prepare your space before you start gluing so you don’t run into any issues once the glue starts flowing. Position a small bowl of water off to the side and stack a few rags and extra paper towels nearby. Make sure there’s a small screwdriver within easy reach, as well.
10. **Apply wood glue to the back of the replacement bridge.** Flip the new bridge over so the backside is facing up. Remove the cap from the wood glue and apply a thin layer generously over the entire back of the bridge. Don’t skimp on the glue! When you press the bridge into place, excess glue will squeeze out from underneath the bridge, which is normal.
This is why you have the bowl of water and rags nearby—to wipe that excess glue off.
11. **Press the bridge carefully in place on the guitar body.** Hold the bridge around the edges so you don’t disturb the glue or get it on your hands. Flip the bridge back over so the backside with the glue is facing down. Gently place the replacement bridge into position just like you did before.
12. **Use the C-clamp to clamp the bridge into place with light pressure.** Move the clamp into the guitar hole just like you did before. Gently clamp the bridge into place. You don’t need to use a lot of pressure on the clamp to get good compression.
13. **Dampen the rag and use it to wipe away excess glue that seeps out.** As the clamp presses down on the bridge, wood glue will squeeze out from beneath the bridge. Dampen a clean rag with water and wipe away the excess glue immediately before it starts to set. Then, wrap another dampened rag around the end of the screwdriver. Run the end of the screwdriver along the joint edges to remove excess glue.
The wrapped end of the screwdriver allows you to get into the joints where the bridge meets the guitar body. You want to bridge to lay flat, so it’s important to remove any excess glue before it sets.
14. **Leave the clamp in place overnight so the glue can cure.** Once the clamp is set, leave the guitar alone and avoid moving it. Make sure the guitar won’t be disturbed for the next 8 to 12 hours so the glue has plenty of time to set.
If possible, let the glue cure for a full 24 hours.
15. **Remove the clamp the next day and restring your guitar.** Carefully unscrew and remove the clamp after the glue fully sets. Be careful not to bump the finish with the clamp as you’re removing it—clamps are heavy! After the clamp is out of the way, you can put the strings back on your guitar and test out the sound! | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Replace-the-Bridge-on-an-Acoustic-Guitar", "language": "en"} |
How to Clean Engine Cylinder Heads | The cylinder head or heads make up a significant portion of your vehicle’s engine and plays an integral role in the internal combustion process. The cylinder head serves to control the intake of air and fuel as well as the expulsion of exhaust gasses. While cylinder heads are made up of numerous small components, cleaning a head is a fairly simple task. Just be sure it is completely disassembled and be careful not to damage the surface of the cylinder head during the cleaning process.
1. **Gather the necessary equipment.** Before getting started, you’ll need to gather the tools and equipment necessary to properly clean your cylinder heads. Much of what you’ll need can be found around the house, though you will also need to use a chemical parts or brake cleaner that can be purchased from your local auto parts store. You will also need access to warm water to soak the heads. Gather the following supplies before getting started:
Brake or parts cleaner
Canned air or access to an air compressor
Two large tubs or buckets
Paper towels or rags
Plastic scraper
2. **Ensure the head is completely disassembled.** When fully assembled, cylinder heads contain numerous small parts that need to be removed before the cleaning process can begin. Most cylinder heads contain one or two camshafts, intake and exhaust valves with supporting hardware, and likely some ignition components such as spark plugs or ignition coils. All of these parts must be removed and stored safely while cleaning the cylinder head.
Use care when removing the valve cover on the top of the cylinder head to prevent it from warping. Loosen all of the bolts first, then proceed to unscrew them the rest of the way.
Be careful not to lose any of the small pieces you removed.
Some components of the cylinder head may need to be pressed out of the head using a machine press. If you don’t have access to one, you may need to enlist the help of a machine shop.
3. **Put on the appropriate safety gear.** The process of cleaning your cylinder heads includes the use of chemical cleaning agents that are a serious hazard to your eyes and may irritate your skin due to prolonged contact. In order to protect yourself, make sure to wear appropriate safety equipment at all times while cleaning your cylinder heads.
Eye protection such as safety glasses or goggles should be worn at all times when working with chemical cleaning agents.
Chemical resistant gloves will protect your hands from being irritated by the brake or parts cleaner. If you use a non-spray parts cleaner that you fill the tub with, you may want to use gloves that extend to your elbow if possible.
4. **Determine what kind of material the heads are made out of.** Most cylinder heads are made of either iron or an aluminum alloy. Each material has its advantages and disadvantages in terms of the performance and lifetime of your vehicle, but more importantly, aluminum is a softer metal and may be more prone to damage in the cleaning process. To determine what kind of metal your cylinder heads are made out of, check in the service manual for your vehicle or use the following factors to help you decide:
Aluminum heads are much lighter than iron ones, both in weight and in color. Light grey heads are likely made of aluminum while darker colors may indicate iron.
Iron is prone to rusting, while aluminum is not. If there are signs of surface rust on the heads, they are made of iron.
A magnet will not stick to an aluminum cylinder head, but it will stick to an iron one.
5. **Use a plastic scraper to remove head gasket material.** There is a good chance that there will still be some head gasket material remaining on your cylinder head. The head gasket creates a seal between the head and engine block (also sometimes referred to as the “top” end and “bottom” ends). Scrape off any remnants of the gasket using a plastic scraper. Be extremely careful not to scratch or damage the “mating surface” of the cylinder head where the gasket material can be found. Any scratch or damage can cause leaks that will lead to gasket failure once the engine is assembled again.
Do not use a metal scraper or any tools that could feasibly damage the mating surface of the cylinder head.
Make sure to get all of the previous gasket material off of the head to allow for a proper seal when reinstalling.
6. **Place the cylinder head in the tub.** With the gasket material gone, place the cylinder head in the first tub. If you are using liquid parts cleaner, pour the parts cleaner into the tub with the cylinder head so you can use it as you clean. If you are using a spray cleaner, you will not need to fill the tub.
Be careful when moving the cylinder head around. There are studs and vacuum line nozzles that will likely be sticking out your cylinder head that can be damaged if banged against walls or tables.
Depending on the situation, you may need help moving the cylinder heads into and out of the tubs, as they can be rather heavy.
7. **Use parts cleaner and a rag to begin scrubbing the head.** Use a rag and the cleaning agent of your choice to scrub every portion of the cylinder head that you can access. Pour or spray cleaner into the areas of the cylinder head that you are unable to reach. The cleaning agent will break up most carbon deposits and burnt oil, but you may need to scrub a bit in some areas.
Do not use a steel tooth brush or anything else that could damage the mating surfaces of the cylinder head when scrubbing.
Take your time to ensure you clean every nook and cranny of the cylinder head.
8. **Fill the second tub with warm water.** After you scrub your cylinder heads, fill the second tub up with warm water. Make sure the tub is tall enough to allow the cylinder head to be completely submerged in water, then fill it with enough water to completely cover the head. You may want to do the following step outdoors or in a room with a drain.
Make sure the tub is large enough to allow the cylinder head to be completely submerged.
Use warm to hot water when filling the tub.
9. **Submerge the cylinder head in the water.** Place the cylinder head in the water filled tub gently. The water will make its way through the areas of the cylinder head you were unable to access with your rag as well as helping to remove the cleaning agent you used in the previous step. Aluminum heads can be damaged by prolonged exposure to caustic cleaners so rinsing them off is imperative.
Allow the head to sit in the water for a few minutes.
If the head isn’t completely submerged, add warm water until it is.
10. **Remove the head and use a rag to wipe it down.** After waiting a few minutes, carefully lift the head back out of the tub of water and place it on a stable counter. Use a clean rag to wipe the cylinder head down and remove as much water from it as possible. Make sure to wipe out any standing water that may collect in the nooks and crannies of the head.
You will not be able to completely dry the cylinder head with a rag, but removing the majority of the water will help it to dry faster.
Do not reuse the rag with a cleaning agent on it. Make sure it is a new, clean rag.
11. **Use a spray washer to clean the head.** If you have access to a spray washer, which is a specific type of equipment designed to clean automotive parts, you can do a more effective job of cleaning the external and exposed internal areas of the cylinder head. Like cleaning it by hand, spray washers do a poor job of cleaning the internal surfaces that are hard to reach, but can dramatically reduce the labor required to clean the rest of the cylinder head.
Spray washers are common in many professional garages and machine shops.
Smaller spray washers can be purchased at auto-parts stores, though the cost may be prohibitive if you do not intend to clean other parts.
12. **Have the cylinder head “hot tanked.”** Hot tanks are another type of specialized equipment used to thoroughly clean automotive parts. These tanks are filled with caustic cleaning agents that can reach all internal and external surfaces in the cylinder head. These tanks require significantly less labor than other cleaning options, as all you need to do is place the part in the tank and turn it on.
Hot tanks are usually found in professional machine shops.
You may opt to have your cylinder heads hot tanked after cleaning them yourself to ensure your heads are as clean as possible.
13. **Use compressed air to blow water out of hard to reach places.** After you’ve dried the cylinder head’s external surfaces with a rag, use a can of compressed air or an air compressor to spray out all of the narrow tunnels and openings in the cylinder head. This will dry the head as well as removing any dust or other debris that may have fallen into the head during the cleaning process.
Spray air into every opening you can find in the cylinder head to ensure there is no remaining moisture or debris anywhere in the head.
Make certain that there is no debris of any kind in the cylinder head. Even small amounts of debris can seriously damage the cylinder head once installed.
14. **Allow the head to dry completely.** Leave the cylinder head on a counter to dry completely. Place paper towels over the top of the head to ensure dust does not fall into and settle in the newly clean and debris free head.
Do not store a head while wet. Iron heads, in particular, will oxidize and rust if stored wet.
15. **Inspect the head for defects or damage.** Before re-assembling or storing your clean cylinder head, inspect it for any damage that may have resulted from the cleaning process or that may have occurred previously. Any cracks in the head will compromise its ability to function and blemishes, scuffs or scratches on the mating surface (the bottom of the cylinder head) will cause head gasket failure. If you notice any such damage, you may be able to have the cylinder head repaired at a machine shop, but you likely will need to purchase a new head.
If you notice the cylinder head is still dirty in some places during your inspection, begin the cleaning process again.
Remember that it’s better to be safe than sorry. Reassembly and installation of a cylinder head will require a significant investment of time. If you are concerned that the head is damaged, have it looked at by a local machine shop.
16. **Oil and bag the head for storage.** If you intend to store your cylinder head for a time before re-assembly, you will need to take preventative action to protect it from debris and oxidization while stored. Spray the head lightly with WD40 before enclosing it in a heavy duty plastic bag.
Seal the plastic bag by tying it off or stapling it shut to make sure dirt can’t fall into by accident.
Make sure you store the cylinder head in a safe place where it won’t be damaged. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Clean-Engine-Cylinder-Heads", "language": "en"} |
How to Become a Patent Lawyer | To become a patent lawyer in the U.S., one must register to practice law with the United States Patent and Trademark Office (USPTO). To register to practice law with the USPTO, a person must meet general requirements, such as possessing the requisite scientific and technical training, as well as a strong moral character. In addition, he must pass the Patent Bar, a multiple-choice exam administered by both the USPTO and the commercial test delivery provider, Prometric.
1. **Have US citizenship or reside legally in the US.** To register with the USPTO, one must be either a U.S. citizen or reside legally in the U.S.
If you are not a U.S. citizen, you will need to present proof that you reside legally and have permission to work in the U.S. This includes a copy of both sides of your work permit and all documentation submitted to and received from USCIS and the Department of Labor.
2. **Complete an undergraduate degree in a scientific field.** To register with the USPTO, one must possess the necessary scientific and technical training. This can be established in one of three ways. The most straightforward way to meet this requirement is to present an official transcript (with a university stamp or seal) showing that you were awarded a Bachelor's degree in one of the following subjects by an accredited U.S. college or university, or that you were awarded the equivalent to a Bachelor's degree by a foreign university in one of the following subjects:
Biology
Biochemistry
Botany
Computer Science: must be accredited by the Computing Sciences Accreditation Board (CSAB) or by the Accreditation Board for Engineering and Technology (ABET)
Electronics Technology
Food Technology
General Chemistry
Marine Technology
Microbiology
Molecular Biology
Organic Chemistry
Pharmacology
Physics
Textile Technology
Engineering: general, aeronautical, agricultural, biomedical, ceramic, chemical, civil, computer, electrical, electrochemical, engineering physics, geological, industrial, mechanical, metallurgical, mining, nuclear, petroleum
3. **Complete scientific coursework equivalent to an undergraduate degree in a scientific field.** If you do not have the required undergraduate degree, you can meet the scientific and technical training requirement by submitting official transcripts that show the completion of an undergraduate degree and one of the following four types of coursework:
24 semester hours in physics (only physics courses for physics majors will be accepted)
32 semester hours in a combination consisting of the following: 8 semester hours of chemistry or 8 semester hours of physics, and 24 semester hours in biology, botany, microbiology, or molecular biology.
30 semester hours in chemistry (only chemistry courses for chemistry majors will be accepted)
40 semester hours in a combination consisting of the following: 8 semester hours of chemistry or 8 semester hours of physics, and 32 semester hours of chemistry, physics, biology, botany, microbiology, molecular biology, or engineering.
4. **Pass the Fundamentals of Engineerings (FE) test.** If you do not have an undergraduate degree or equivalent coursework that meets the scientific and technical training requirement, you can still meet this requirement by presenting evidence that you passed the Fundamentals of Engineerings (FE) test.
If you wish to take the FE, contact the secretary of the State Board of Engineering Examiners in your state or jurisdiction.
The USPTO requires that you submit official results showing that you passed the FE test, as well as an official transcript showing the award of a Bachelor's degree.
5. **Meet good moral character requirements.** To register with the USPTO, you must show that you have good moral character. You will be found ineligible if:
You have been convicted of a felony, or a crime involving moral turpitude or breach of trust, unless more than two years have passed since you completed your sentence, deferred adjudication, probation or parole and you can show proof of rehabilitation.
You have been disbarred from the practice of law or other profession, or resigned a professional license in lieu of a disciplinary proceeding, unless more than five years have passed since the date of disbarment or resignation.
You have already been refused registration for failure to demonstrate good moral character unless more than two years have passed.
6. **Graduate from law school.** To register with the USPTO as a patent lawyer, one must already be an attorney. To become an attorney, one must be licensed to practice law by the Bar Association in his jurisdiction. In general, a person must obtain a Juris Doctor (JD) degree from an American Bar Association (ABA) approved law school in order to practice law.
To apply to law school, you will need to register with the Law School Admission Council (LSAC), take the Law School Admission Test (LSAT), gather your official transcripts from your undergraduate university, prepare a personal statement and apply to law schools online through the LSAC website.
The USPTO does not require that an applicant complete any particular coursework during law school. However, once you begin practicing patent law, it will be helpful to have taken courses in Intellectual Property, Trademark Law and Patent Law and have participated in any clinical programs that give you practical experience in the field of intellectual property.
Not all states require that a person have completed law school in order to practice law. In Virginia, Vermont, Washington and California, a person is eligible to become a lawyer if he has completed a legal apprenticeship and passes the state Bar exam.
If you are not an attorney, you can still register with the USPTO as a "patent agent" as long as you meet the technical and moral character requirements and pass the Patent Bar.
7. **Pass your state Bar exam.** Almost all jurisdictions require that a person pass a Bar exam before he can become licensed to practice law. The only exception is Wisconsin, which grants a "diploma privilege" to graduates of the University of Wisconsin Law School and Marquette University Law School, allowing them to become licensed in Wisconsin without passing the Bar exam.
The Bar exam is administered by individual states and jurisdictions within the U.S. To find out the contents of the exam and review the criteria for eligibility, visit the website of the Bar Association in your particular jurisdiction.
Generally, the Bar exam consists of two days of testing. The first day is devoted to a standardized multiple-choice test known as the Multistate Bar Examination (MBE). The second day is typically comprised of essay questions based on areas of law specific to that jurisdiction.
A separate multiple choice exam on ethical standards known as the Multistate Professional Responsibility Exam (MPRE) is also required by most jurisdictions. This exam can usually be taken earlier than the Bar exam.
8. **Apply to register with the USPTO.** To take the Patent Bar, you must first apply to register with the Office of Enrollment and Discipline (OED) at the USPTO. You will need to complete the "Application for Registration to Practice before the United States Patent and Trademark Office" (Form PTO-158) and send it to Mailstop OED, U.S. Patent and Trademark Office, P.O. Box 1450, Alexandria, Virginia 22313-1450, along with the following documents and fees:
Evidence of scientific and technical training, such as official transcripts showing a Bachelor's degree is an accepted scientific field or the completion of scientific coursework equivalent to an undergraduate degree accompanied by course descriptions.
If you are not a U.S. citizen, provide evidence that you reside legally in the U.S., including a copy of both sides of your work permit and all documentation submitted to and received from USCIS and the Department of Labor.
If you have a criminal history, provide a full explanation in writing of your arrests and convictions, a complete copy of all court records regarding each incident and any other documents requested in the section of the application that asks about your criminal history.
A cashier's or certified check, Treasury note, or United States Postal Service money order made payable to the Director of the United States Patent and Trademark Office for $240 (includes the application and registration fee). Note that if you have a criminal background a higher fee is required.
9. **Wait to receive your admission letter.** Once you have submitted your application to register with the OED, you will receive an admission letter with further instructions on the examination process. You will also receive a USPTO identification number. You will need to use this number in all future correspondence with the OED.
If you plan to register for the exam with the commercial test delivery provider, Prometric, you will need to provide your USPTO ID number during the exam registration process.
The admission letter will state the exact date by which you must take the exam (90 days from the date on which the letter was sent).
10. **Register for the exam.** The Patent Bar is administered by both the USPTO and a commercial test delivery provider, Prometric. The USPTO exam is given on paper, while the Prometric exam is computer-based. The USPTO exam is only offered once per fiscal year at the USPTO office in Alexandria, Virginia, while the Prometric exam is offered in a variety of locations at various times throughout the year.
To find out the date of the next USPTO exam, visit the USPTO website. To register for the exam, the process is identical to applying to register with the OED. The only differences are that you must register by the deadline required for your exam, include an additional fee of $450 and check the box in Line 8b of the application to indicate you wish to register for the USPTO exam.
To register for the Prometric administered examination, first apply for registration with the USPTO. Then, contact Prometric to schedule the exam by calling 800-479-6369 or visiting the company's website (http://www.prometric.com) and indicate you wish to take the exam sponsored by the USPTO. You will need to provide an eligibility ID provided to you by the OED in your admission letter.
11. **Find out what material is covered on the exam.** The material on the Patent Bar is constantly evolving to reflect changes in patent law. For this reason, it is critical that you find out what material will be covered on your exam.
Check the USPTO website for the source materials that will be tested on your exam.
Be careful about relying on old practice tests or outlines to study for the Patent Bar. The last time the source materials for the exam changed was in 2014, which means any materials before that date may not be reliable.
12. **Devise a study plan.** To prepare for the Patent Bar, you can either study on your own or enroll in a course.
If you choose to study on your own, you will save the money it would cost to enroll in a course. All of the material tested on the Patent Bar is publicly available in the Manual of Patent Examining Procedure (MPEP) and you can review it on your own. However, the MPEP is several thousands of pages long and therefore very overwhelming to a person who is approaching it for the first time. To make matters worse, some sections of the MPEP have not been updated to reflect changes in law and can mislead those preparing for the exam. For this reason, studying on your own can be very challenging. The first-time pass rate among those who attempt this method is only around 15%.
The alternative is to enroll in a reputable commercial exam prep course. The advantage to this approach is that you will be given study guides that highlight the most important information that will be tested on your exam and thousands of reliable practice questions that have been updated to reflect the test you will take.
13. **Enroll in a course.** If you choose to take a prep course, there are many to choose from, including:
The Practising Law Institute's (PLI) Patent Bar Review is the most commonly taken prep course. The course will provide you with a study guide that outlines all of the tested materials and access to a bank of practice questions that help you identify your strong and weak points. The test-takers who enroll in this course pass the exam on their first attempt 88% of the time. The disadvantage is the price, which is almost $2800 for non-students and almost $1900 for students.
PatBar Patent Review course is a cheaper alternative to PLI's Patent Bar Review. It costs between $600 and $900, depending on whether a discount is offered. Like PLI's course, PatBar also provides its students with concise and easily digestible outlines and practice questions that reflect the information on the exam. However, the PatBar website does not disclose the pass rate of its students so that is difficult to know whether it is as effective as PLI's Patent Bar Review.
Wysebridge Patent Bar Review is an even cheaper alternative, costing only $349. It aims to simplify the process of studying for the Patent Bar by targeting only the material you most need to know and boasts a pass rate of 83%, which it claims is higher than any other course offering a similar price. The course is conducted entirely online.
14. **Take the exam.** You must take your exam within 90 days of having received your admission letter from the OED.
If you are taking the Prometric administered exam, you must pay an examination administration fee of $160 before you get to the test center. If you are taking the USPTO administered exam, you will have paid the examination fee when you applied to register with the USPTO.
Arrive at least 30 minutes before the exam is scheduled to begin.
Bring a current, valid state or federal government issued ID, such as a driver's license or passport, to the test center. The name on your ID must match the name your name as it appeared in your application to register with the OED.
Do not bring reference materials or any notes or scratch paper with you to the test center. Reference materials will be given to you at the test center.
If you are taking the USPTO administered exam, bring at least two #2 pencils with you to the test center.
15. **Find out whether you passed the exam.** Results of the examination will be mailed to you soon after the date on which you took the examination.
If you take the computer examination administered by Prometric, you will receive unofficial results on the computer at the end of exam. Your official results will arrive by mail.
If you take the USPTO administered examination, you will receive your results by mail.
If you pass, you will receive instructions for completing the registration process so that you are fully licensed to practice patent law. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Become-a-Patent-Lawyer", "language": "en"} |
How to Take Better Notes | You already take diligent notes, but now you’re wondering how to up your note-taking game and start taking notes that are better and more useful for you. There are actually all kinds of note-taking methods and strategies you can use to make your notes as effective and clutter-free as possible, and we’ll show you how! We’ve also included some tips on the best ways to review your notes so you get the most out of them. Check out the steps below to get started.
1. **Gather your note-taking materials.** It may sound pretty basic, but it's really important to have all of your note-taking materials organized and ready to go before the start of any class, meeting or lecture.
If you're writing with paper and pens, make sure you have a notebook with plenty of blank pages and extra writing utensils. If you're using a laptop, make sure it's fully charged or that you can sit near a power outlet.
If you wear glasses, make sure you have them with you in case the teacher/lecturer writes down any important information on a black or whiteboard. If you bring your glasses, make sure to bring a small microfiber cloth so that you are able to clean them should the need arise. Also, remember to position yourself in an area of the room where you can effectively see and hear the speaker.
2. **Be sure to come prepared.** Before you come to a class, lecture, or meeting, make sure to review your notes from the last time round. This will bring you fully up to speed and ready to pick up where you left off.
If you were advised to do any background reading to prepare for the class, make sure that you read and annotated the assignment. This will help you to understand any themes, concepts or ideas that the teacher/lecturer is likely to present in class. A good idea would be to outline the section, article, or chapter before hand. Write your outline on one side of the paper so that you can add your class notes to the other side.
Remember the old adage "By failing to prepare, you are preparing to fail".
3. **Be an active listener.** When note-taking, many people make the mistake of mindlessly taking down every word, without really comprehending what is being said. Instead, make an effort to understand the topic while you're in class. Focus on what's really being said, then ask questions if you don't understand.
Determine the best time to ask questions, then raise your hand to get the instructor's attention. They'll appreciate that you're listening attentively and want to understand.
Do your best to understand the information during class so you won't have to work so hard during the review.
4. **Take notes by hand.** Although taking notes on your laptop is convenient, research shows note takers actually retain information better when they take notes by hand. This may be because people typing on a laptop tend to transcribe every word without understanding the meaning, while people writing by hand are forced to pick out relevant information in order to keep up.
If you do take notes by laptop, don't try to get down every word. Make sure you're understanding the meaning of what's being said.
5. **Don't be afraid to ask questions.** When you come across something you don't understand, don't just jot it down and tell yourself that you'll worry about it later -- ask the teacher/lecturer for clarification.
Think about it -- if you find something confusing now, you'll find it twice as confusing during your note-review later.
Don't be afraid to ask the teacher/lecturer to repeat themselves either -- particularly if you feel that they've said something important.
6. **Focus on key words and concepts.** The most important change you can make to improve your note-taking skills is to focus solely on taking down key words and concepts.
Write down individual words or key phrases that are most relevant to the topic at hand -- things like dates, names, theories, definitions -- only the most important details should make the cut. Eliminate all the filler words and secondary details -- if you wanted those things you could read a textbook.
. Why are you taking the class? Why are you attending the seminar? Why did your employer send you to the conference? While it may be your first instinct to try to write down what you hear or see verbatim, you have to remember that you are taking notes in order to learn something from them -- you're not writing a novella.
. Don't waste time writing down information that you already know -- this is useless to you and just wastes time. Focus on writing down any new information that you've never learned before -- this will give you the most value from your note-taking.
7. **Use the "question, answer, evidence" method.** This is a very effective method of taking notes, as it forces you to engage with the material as you write and allows you to describe the topic in your own words. This technique of paraphrasing information has been proven to help students understand and retain material much more effectively.
Instead of copying down line after line of information, listen carefully to what the speaker is saying and make an effort to understand the material. Once you've done that, formulate your notes as a series of questions raised by the material, then fill in your own answers.
For example, if the question was "what is the central theme of Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet?", the answer could be "more than a tragic love story, Romeo and Juliet is about the consequences of holding grudges".
Then underneath this answer, you can provide evidence for your conclusion by pointing to specific examples from within the text. This strategy allows you to record all of the relevant information, in a concise, easy-to-read format.
8. **Use shorthand.** The average student writes 1/3 word per second, while the average speaker speaks at a rate of 2/3 words per second. Therefore, developing your own system of shorthand writing can help you to write more efficiently and avoid falling behind.
Try writing things like "wd" for would, "cd" for could and "w/" for with. Write a plus sign for the word "and". Also try to abbreviate long words that appear again and again throughout the class or lecture -- for example, instead of writing "popular sovereignty" 25 times over the course of a history class, write "pop sov".
Of course, it's essential that you're able to decipher your own shorthand later on -- if you think you might have difficulty, try writing out a key on the inside cover of your copy.You could also go back and fill in the full-length version of the words after class.
If the speaker is still going too fast for you despite your shorthand, consider bringing a recording device to your next class -- this will allow you to listen a second time and fill in any gaps in your notes.
9. **Make your notes visually appealing.** You will be reluctant to go back and study your notes if they are messy, disorganized and difficult to read, so it's important that they look nice! Here are some tips on how to create more visually appealing notes:
. You'll find your notes much easier to read if you start on a fresh, blank page for each new class or topic. Put the date in the top right-hand corner and only write on one side of each page, especially if you're writing with very inky pens.
. Taking notes will be a complete waste of time if you can't read them afterwards! No matter how fast you write, make sure your writing is small, neat and legible, and avoid using cursive handwriting if possible.
. Line each page with a pen and ruler, giving yourself a wide margin on the left-hand side. This will prevent the page from becoming too overcrowded and will leave you space to write in any additional information once you review your notes.
. Things like arrows, dots and boxes, diagrams, charts, and other visual aids are often great ways to associate and remember key concepts, especially if you're a visual learner.
10. **Color-code your notes.** Many people find that adding a splash of color to their notes helps to make the information more readable and easier to retain.
This is due to the fact that color stimulates the creative side of your brain, making your notes more interesting and therefore easier to retain. Color-coding helps you to link color with memory, allowing you to remember the contents of your notes with relatively little effort.
Try using different colored pens for different parts of your notes -- for example, you could write questions in red, definitions in blue and conclusions in green.
You could also use a highlighter pen to highlight key words, dates, and definitions. Don't go overboard though -- you shouldn't mistake highlighting your notes for actual study.
11. **Take notes from your textbook.** After a class or lecture, you may want to supplement your notes with information from a textbook. Taking notes from a textbook is another skill worth mastering.
Before you jump straight into reading a text, preview the material to get a sense of what it's about. Read any introductions and conclusions, headers and sub-headers, and the first and last line of every paragraph. Also glance over any charts, illustrations or diagrams.
Now go back to the beginning of the text and read it thoroughly from start to finish. Once you have finished a paragraph, go back and highlight any key words, facts, concepts or important quotes. Look for visual cues in the textbook itself -- things like bold or italicized words and the use of color or bullet points are often used to highlight significant points.
Once you've thoroughly read the text, go back and make notes from the information you highlighted. Try not to copy full sentences from the text -- this simply wastes time -- and paraphrase using your own words where possible.
12. **Review your notes later in the day.** Reviewing your notes after class, or later the same day will help you to retain the information much more effectively. You don't need to study them intensely -- just spend 15 to 20 minutes going back over them each night.
Fill in any blanks. Use your review time to fill in any additional information that you remember from the class or lecture.
Write a summary. Another effective tool for committing your notes to memory is to summarize the information contained in your notes at the bottom of the page.
13. **Test yourself.** Test yourself on your understanding of the material by covering up your notes and trying to explain the topic to yourself -- out loud or in your head.
See how many of the important details you can remember, then read the notes again to recap on any information you might have missed.
Explain the material to a friend. Teaching or explaining the material to a friend is a good way to test whether you've fully understood the topic and whether your notes deal with the topic comprehensively.
14. **Memorize your notes.** You'll really see the benefit of having good notes when it comes to exam time and you have to memorize all of the material. If you have been consistently reviewing your notes for 20 to 30 minutes each night, you'll find the memorization process much easier. Here are some popular memorization techniques you can try:
If you have to memorize a chunk of text, one good technique is to read the first line a couple of times, then try to repeat it out loud without looking at the page. Read the second line a couple of times, then try to repeat the first and second line out loud, without looking at the page. Keep going in this fashion until you can repeat the entire chunk of text without looking at the page.
This method involves turning the information you have to memorize into a simple story that's easy to remember. For example, if you wanted to remember the first three elements of the periodic table (hydrogen, helium, and lithium) you could use the following story "(H)arriet and (He)nry went to the (Li)brary". The story doesn't need to make sense -- in fact, the sillier it is, the better.
Using mnemonic devices is a good way to remember lists of words in a particular order. To make a mnemonic, simply take the first letter of each word you wish to remember and come up with a short sentence where each word starts with those letters. For example, to remember the lines on a musical staff EGBDF you could use the mnemonic "Every Good Boy Does Fine".
For more detailed instructions on popular and effective memorization techniques, see this article. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Take-Better-Notes", "language": "en"} |
How to Grow Kohlrabi | Popular in Germany and India, the kohlrabi is named after the German words for cabbage (kohl) and turnip (rübe), and the crisp and versatile vegetable does resemble both its namesakes. This hardy biennial is often grown as an annual. It is easy to grow in mild climates, making it a unique and delicious addition to any garden. You can learn to plant and care for kohlrabi to give your crop the best possibility of success.
1. **Select a variety of kohlrabi.** Kohlrabi is a brassica, in the cabbage family. Increasingly popular, kohlrabi is also available in different varieties, all easy to grow, with slight variations in look and time to maturity. The biggest difference is whether or not you pick a green or purple variety.
Green kohlrabi varieties include the Korridor and the Winner, which mature quickly, in about 50 days, compared to about 60 for some other varieties. Bright lime-green in color, they make an attractive addition to a garden bed.
Purple kohlrabi varieties like the Azur Star and Kolibri are particularly bug-resistent, because of the purple leaves on the plant, which keep the insects away. Taste-wise, you won't notice much difference.
Storage varieties like Kossak, Superschmelz, and Gigante are, as you might guess, much larger than the regular varieties of kohlrabi. They'll last longer in the cellar or the fridge, prepared correctly. Taste-wise, these varieties are all very similar.
2. **Select a planting location for kohlrabi.** Kohlrabi should be planted in full sun, close to other roots, like potatoes, beets, onions. Kohlrabi are big drinkers and feeders, which means they'll need a good amount of water and fertile soil. It's usually recommended that you plant five or six cabbage-family plants for each member of the household. Sow three times the amount.
Kohlrabi should be kept in a separate part of the garden from pole beans, tomatoes, and strawberries.
3. **Prepare the soil for sowing.** Several weeks before the last frost of spring, Kohlrabi may be planted, which means you can start tilling your soil early. Kohlrabi should be planted in well-tilled soil enriched with compost. It's hardy in most conditions, though it excels in soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.8.
Good drainage is also helpful in avoiding rot and blight in your kohlrabi plants, so make sure you've got an area of the garden that doesn't collect water too much.
4. **Plant kohlrabi in cool weather.** Kohlrabi is a hardy grower that should be planted about a month before the last frost in spring. Ideally, you want the plant to mature before the temperature gets much over 75 F, which means you’ll want to plant it early, among your earliest sows, probably, in an area with a very hot summer. Kohlrabi will mature in 50-60 days.
If you live in a place with warm winters, it’s also common to plant kohlrabi in late autumn to harvest in early winter. The plant should be able to withstand autumn frosts.
If winter's running long, you can start kohlrabi in pots indoors and move the plants outside about a month before the first frost, then plant them after they have hardened.
5. **Plant seeds in an even row.** Kohlrabi seeds should be sowed in moist soil about a ⁄2 inch (1.3 cm) deep and an inch apart, a single seed in each hole. Use your finger to make a small indent in the ground, then cover the seeds loosely with soil. Leave at least an inch between each plant, which you'll thin out later.
Kohlrabi should be planted in rows, which should be spaced about a foot apart to give them room to spread out and mature.
6. **Weed carefully and regularly.** When you see your starts coming up, weed around them very carefully, paying special attention to milkweed, thistle, and any other local weeds. Kohlrabi are easily beaten out in the beginning, and have a shallow root structure, since the bulb is above ground. The most critical time for kohlrabi is in the first couple of weeks. Let them flourish, then thin them out.
7. **Thin successful seedlings about 5–8 inches (12.7–20.3 cm) apart.** After a couple of weeks, the plants should be about 6 inches (15.2 cm) tall and you can start thinning out the most successful of them to give them room to grow. Carefully dig up the plants and re-space them, so they're about 8 inches (20.3 cm) apart, moving some to other places in the garden if necessary.
The greens of young kohlrabi can be eaten raw, in salads, or can be thrown into stir-frys as any field green. It's a unique and nutrient-rich way of spicing up a meal.
8. **Mulch plants with compost.** Once the plants are 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) tall, you should provide them a bit of structure and nitrogen support. Pack some compost around the base of kohlrabi to help hold them up and inject some nutrients into the soil. This can be the big difference between healthy-looking big bulbs and woody inedibles.
9. **Water deeply and frequently.** Kohlrabi need lots of water, and do well in relatively mild or Mediterranean climates. If the soil is dry, under-watered kohlrabi will become woody and unpleasant to eat. If the split striations on the bulb start to look dry, increase your waterings.
When watering, water the soil around the base of each bulb, don't water on top of the plants, which can increase the possibility of rot. This goes for most cabbage.
10. **Watch closely for cutworms.** Kohlrabi and other cabbages are susceptible to cutworms, making it important that you stay on top of these pests as your plants mature. You'll notice holes in the leaves and egg clusters on the underside of the leaves. If you find this, move swiftly.
Wash leaves with egg clusters on them thoroughly, removing the eggs as you find them. It’s common to “collar” the leaf stems of the kohlrabi by tying them up to get the leaves off the ground. This can help to keep the infestation at bay. You can use Bacillus thuringiensis (or Bt) if you’ve got a serious problem.
Keep an eye out for rot, as well. “Cabbage yellows” is easy to recognize, due to the yellowish-brownish color the leaves will take on. Remove infected plants entirely.
11. **Harvest kohlrabi by pulling up the entire plant.** Kohlrabi is usually ready to be harvested after about 45-60 days. The stem should be about 2–3 inches (5.1–7.6 cm) in diameter, and the bulbs will be big and healthy-looking. The bulbs of different varieties will grow to different sizes, so you'll partially be using your judgment. If you let them go too long, kohlrabi will become slightly woody and unpleasant.
The length of time that it takes to grow depends on growing conditions and which variety you are growing.
12. **Enjoy kohlrabi raw or cooked** Kohlrabi have a crisp texture and a mild flavor that makes them a versatile and nutrient-rich food for your table. It's like a cross between a cabbage and an apple, sweet and savory at the same time. Roast it up with other root vegetables, bake and mash kohlrabi, or serve it in a mixed vegetable sauté.
Kohlrabi is eaten in Germany as a bar snack, dressed with salt, cut into slices, and served raw. It's maybe the best possible way to eat this crunchy vegetable, served with a mug of beer. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Grow-Kohlrabi", "language": "en"} |
How to Study Japanese Kanji Easy | Studying Japanese and then kanji can seem like a daunting task without knowing what to do. After building a solid foundation, studying, learning, and remembering kanji will be a breeze.
1. **Get equipped with study materials.** Before you start studying, make sure you have the right tools to study kanji efficiently and effectively. The physical tools you might need are simple but essential, and will include at least:
Writing utensil
Notebook
Index cards
2. **Download useful mobile apps.** There are many useful apps available apps for both iOS and Android which make studying kanji a lot more convenient, especially a dictionary app. Recommended and helpful Japanese apps include:
- Dictionary app - iOS
- Dictionary app - Android
- Simple kanji recognizer app - Android
- Translator app - iOS/Android
- Flashcard app with online database of existing flashcards sets - iOS/Android
- No-frills Japanese language textbook and resource - iOS/Android
- Dictionary app with handwriting kanji feature - iOS
- Kanji learning and practice app - iOS/Android
3. **Understand how kanji works.** Japanese kanji were first adopted over a thousand years ago from Chinese characters for use with the Japanese language. Since then, two simplified writing systems, hiragana and katana, have descended from Chinese characters. However, kanji is used with them in conjunction. Nouns and stems of adjectives and verbs are written with kanji, and there is often more than one reading of the same character.
4. **Learn Kanji by the radical.** Each character can be broken up into a set of radicals which are basically simpler, smaller characters.
The radicals are simplified from standalone characters, so sometimes you may have already learned some of the radicals.
Each radical has its own meaning.
These make complicated looking kanji easier to digest in simpler chunks.
5. **Tell a story with the radicals.** An effective strategy in studying is "telling a story" with the radicals, or coming up with a logical story between the radicals that creates the meaning of the whole kanji.
For example, the character above 男 (male), is made up of 田 (rice paddy) and 力 (power). An example story: a powerful male worker works in the rice paddy.
Mnemonics with kanji readings are also helpful.
6. **Practice writing kanji in a notebook.** Repeating the character over and over again feels repetitive, but will build muscle memory and comfort writing kanji in general.
Many kanji share radicals, so practicing one kanji can help you write other kanji.
7. **Make flashcards and use them often.** The cheapest, quickest way to review kanji is with flashcards. A common way is to have the kanji on one side, and meaning and reading on the back.
Study often instead of longer. Your brain benefits more from reviewing a little each day instead of marathon sessions.
Study kanji you aren't familiar with more often, but also studying familiar ones every once and awhile -- this is part of the proven spaced repetition system.
8. **Consider making a study group.** Find others also learning kanji to offer you tips and tricks for remembering them. Also, you can hold each other accountable while you study.
9. **Memorize it for good!** Make sure to keep up your studies to put the kanji in your long term memory.
10. **Consider getting a textbook or other learning resource.** These can offer guided kanji practice and learning that go along with relevant vocabulary and grammar. Putting kanji into practice is an excellent way to remember them, so working through a textbook can be very helpful. Popular textbooks include:
Genki I&II - Beginner
An Integrate Approach to Intermediate Japanese - Intermediate
The Kodansha Kanji Learner's Course: A Step-by-Step Guide to Mastering 2300 Characters - Kanji focused textbook, but contains useful help and essential vocabulary lists
WaniKani - online Kanji course/game that takes uses a spaced repetition system to teach 2000+ kanji from a base knowledge of zero (paid subscription)
11. **Read Japanese text for real-world practice.** This makes studying seem less like studying and is a more natural absorption of kanji. Start with Japanese children's books (that usually have furigana), and eventually work your way up to something more challenging like a newspaper or website. Anything that gets you using kanji will help! | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Study-Japanese-Kanji-Easy", "language": "en"} |
How to Get a TLC License | A TLC license enables you to transport passengers in taxis or cars with services such as Lyft and Uber. These licenses are only necessary in New York City and are obtained by applying online to the New York City Taxi & Limousine Commission. In addition to having a basic license, you are required to attend a couple of driving classes and submit medical documentation. Within 90 days, you too can be a licensed transport driver in the Big Apple!
1. **Upgrade to a Class E license.** A Class E license is required for taxi driving, so head to a branch of the Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV). Bring your old driver’s license to prove your identity and date of birth. They’ll then exchange your regular license for your new one.
You may need to get a vision test from a licensed medical provider. They check to see if you can read small or distant letters, like what appears on road signs.
You will have to pay a fee. The cost varies depending on the time left before your current license expires, but expect to pay between $20 to $30.
2. **Watch the sex trafficking awareness video.** The video is hosted on TLC’s website. Download the video here. Every TLC driver is required to watch this before applying for a license. There is no test, but the signature on your license signifies that you completed the video.
3. **Submit your TLC license application.** Find the TLC form online at https://www.nyc.gov/lars. Have your Class E license, a valid email address, and a Social Security number ready. All of these are necessary to complete your application.
4. **Pay the application fee.** You’ll have to pay a fee to submit your application. It’s quite pricey, setting you back about $252. Make sure you’ll have the time to complete all the necessary schooling and classwork in the next three months, since this fee is non-refundable.
5. **Upload medical and class completion documents within 90 days.** As soon as you submit your application, work on scheduling your medical tests and classwork. You will need to upload your defensive driving course certificate and driver medical form filled out by your physician. Submit all of these through the TLC Upload portal at http://www.nyc.gov/tlcup.
The driving school and testing facilities notify the TLC when you complete the wheelchair course, driver education course, drug test, and fingerprinting, so you will not need to provide that documentation yourself.
Come back to this page periodically to see if your documents uploaded correctly and were received by the TLC.
After submitting all required paperwork, go to nyc.gov/newdriverapplookup to check on your application. Your license will arrive within a month of completing your driver’s education exam.
6. **Take a defensive driving course.** This is the only course you can complete before submitting your TLC license application. It can be scheduled through the DMV or driving schools and may be completed online. Be prepared to spend 6 hours and between $30 and $40 in order to learn about traffic laws and safe driving.
If you have completed this class within the last 3 years, you won’t have to do it again. You will have to retake the class every 3 years to maintain your TLC license.
Within a week of completing the course, you will receive a certificate to upload to the TLC site.
7. **Complete wheelchair passenger assistance training.** This class will take you 3 hours and cost you $75. It can be taken from any TLC-approved schools listed on nyc.gov. When you’ve learned how to handle passengers with disabilities, you’ll receive a wallet-sized certificate to carry.
8. **Complete the TLC driver education course.** This class is your biggest time sink, taking up 24 hours of your time. For $175, you’ll learn the facts every driver needs to know, including local geography and map reading. You’ll also gain knowledge on how to speak to passengers. The course can be completed in-person through any TLC-approved school.
Visit http://www.nyc.gov/html/tlc/html/licenses/driver_education.shtml for a list of schools
You cannot finish the class until you have submitted your TLC application. You may be able to start it before then and submit your application when you're ready to take the exam.
9. **Pass the driver education course exam.** Driver education courses conclude with a knowledge exam. The exam is done in person at the same school where you attended the course. It’ll cost you another $75. To pass, answer 56 out of 80 questions to score a 70% or higher.
You are allowed to attempt the test as many times as necessary during the 90 days when your TLC application is valid.
Go to the TLC site to find free study guides!
10. **Print out the driver medical form.** Go to www.nyc.gov/html/tlc. Click the word “Licensing” on the sidebar, then find the ‘Apply for a License” header near the bottom of the page. Click on “Driver,” then the “Additional Forms” header to find the form. Your primary healthcare provider needs to fill out this form.
11. **Schedule a physical exam with a doctor.** Bring the medical form you printed earlier and have the physician complete it before you leave. The doctor will perform some basic tests such as checking your eyes and listening to your heartbeat to ensure you are able to drive safely.
Remember to submit this medical form online through TLC’s upload tool.
12. **Get a drug test.** Call 1-800-923-2624 or walk into a TLC-authorized testing location to schedule an appointment. This test will cost you $26. Failing the test means your TLC application will be denied immediately, so if you hear nothing from the testing company, that’s a good sign.
13. **Have your fingerprints taken.** This service comes with a fee of yet another $75. Go to the scheduling site at https://uenroll.identogo.com/workflows/15425Y to set up an appointment. Bring your driver’s license and dress for a photo. They’ll put your fingerprints on file and take your picture before you leave. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Get-a-TLC-License", "language": "en"} |
How to Make a Pillow Cover with a Zipper | Zippered pillow covers are a convenient way to update the look of a sofa or bed. You can revamp your existing pillows with new covers in an instant, and then remove the covers whenever you need to wash them. It’s easy to make zippered pillow covers with some fabric, a zipper, and a sewing machine, so make one for yourself or as a gift for a friend.
1. **Select fabric in the color and style of your choice.** You can use any kind of fabric you like, but a medium-weight fabric in a smooth texture is the easiest to work with. Select fabric in a print or color that appeals to you.
For example, you could choose a cotton or cotton-linen blend to make your pillow cover.
2. **Choose a zipper 4 in (10 cm) shorter than the length of your pillow.** This is the ideal length for creating a zippered opening on a pillow cover. Opt for a zipper that matches or complements the color of the fabric you are using as well, such as a light blue zipper with light blue fabric.
For example, if the pillow you are making will be 14 in (36 cm) long on the side that you want to add a zipper onto, then chose a zipper that is 10 in (25 cm) long.
3. **Select a pillow form in the desired dimensions.** You can purchase a pillow form in a craft supply store or use a pillow that you already have. Choose a pillow in the shape, size, and thickness that you want your pillow cover to be.
For example, if you want to create a square-shaped pillow that is 16 by 16 in (41 by 41 cm), then you will need to a pillow form in these dimensions.
4. **Cut 2 pieces of fabric 1 in (2.5 cm) smaller than your pillow form.** Measure the width and length of your pillow form and subtract 1 in (2.5 cm) from each measurement. Then, cut your fabric into 2 equal-sized pieces using these measurements. Cutting the fabric slightly smaller than the pillow form will help to ensure that the pillow looks plump in the pillow cover.
For example, if your pillow form measures 16 by 16 in (41 by 41 cm), then cut your fabric so that it is 15 by 15 in (38 by 38 cm).
5. **Stack the 2 pieces of fabric with the right (outer) sides facing each other.** Take the 2 pieces of fabric that you cut out and place 1 on top of the other. Lay the first piece with the right side facing up and the second piece with the right side facing down. Make sure that the edges are even on all sides of the 2 pieces.
If desired, you can insert a few pins to help keep the 2 pieces together. However, this may only be necessary if the fabric is slippery.
6. **Sew a straight stitch 2 in (5.1 cm) from each corner on 1 edge.** Take the 2 pieces to your sewing machine and set it to the straight stitch setting. Then, sew a straight stitch 2 in (5.1 cm) from 1 corner and repeat on the opposite end of the same edge.
Only do this for 1 edge of the pillow and leave the other sides open for now. This will create the opening for your zipper.
7. **Backstitch** To backstitch, press down on the lever on the side of your sewing machine. This will reverse the direction of the stitching so that you can sew backwards. When you reach the beginning of the seam, release the lever and continue sewing forward until you reach the 2 in (5.1 cm) mark. Then, backstitch again to finish the stitch.
Repeat this on both ends of the seam.
8. **Fold the fabric back along the opening and stitch it down.** After you finish sewing the other end of the pillow edge, open up the fabric with the raw edges of the fabric you just sewed facing up. Then, press down the fabric along the edges of the opening so that the raw edges will be hidden inside of the pillow cover. Sew a straight stich about 0.25 in (0.64 cm) from the raw edges of the fabric along the opening.
9. **Place the zipper onto the seam facing down.** Next, lay out the fabric with the wrong (inner) sides facing up and place the zipper face down over the opening. Line up the edges of the zipper with the opening so that the zipper pull is right at the top of the opening. Insert a pin at the top and bottom edges of the zipper to hold it in place over the pillow cover opening.
10. **Sew a straight stitch along the edges of the zipper and pillow cover.** Take the pillow fabric to your sewing machine again and sew along the edge of the zipper to attach it to the pillow cover fabric. Keep the stitches about 0.25 in (0.64 cm) or less from the zipper.
Be careful not to sew over any pins or you may damage your sewing machine.
Cut the excess threads after you finish sewing the zipper in place.
11. **Sew a straight stitch around the remaining edges.** Layer the 2 pieces so the right sides are facing inwards and line up the edges. Then, sew a straight stitch 0.5 in (1.3 cm) from the edges of the fabric going all the way around the remaining open sides of the cover material.
12. **Cut the excess fabric at the corners of the pillow cover.** After you finish sewing the other sides of the cover, use a pair of pinking shears or regular scissors to cut off about 0.25 in (0.64 cm) of excess fabric at each of the corners. This will help to reduce the bulk on the corners of the pillow after you invert it.
Be careful not to cut through the stitches at the corners of the pillowcase.
13. **Sew a zigzag stitch around the outside of the pillow seam.** Next, prevent the edges of the pillow cover from fraying by sewing a zigzag stitch all the way around the non-zippered edges of the pillow cover. Sew the zigzag stitch so that it comes to the raw edges of the fabric.
You may need to adjust your zigzag stitch settings to ensure that the stitch will not be too wide.
14. **Invert the pillow cover and put the pillow insert into it.** After you have finished securing the edges of the cover with a zigzag stitch, invert the pillow cover. Then, insert the pillow form into your cover and zip it up.
Your zippered pillow cover is complete! | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Pillow-Cover-with-a-Zipper", "language": "en"} |
How to Probate an Estate in Texas | Probating is the legal process of winding up the business affairs of a person who has passed away. This person is known as the Decedent or the Testator. Probate assets are given out according to the Testator’s will, including assets owned by the Decedent that have not been left to anyone in her will. The successful completion of probate hands out the Decedent’s assets among beneficiaries, creditors, and any others with a valid interest in her estate. If you understand the process and follow the right steps, you can learn the process of probating an estate in Texas.
1. **Know the process and its purposes.** The probate process is a court-supervised process that is designed to sort out the transfer of a Decedent’s property at her death. The basic process of probating an estate includes collecting all probate property of the Decedent, paying all debts, claims, and taxes owed by the estate, collecting all rights to income, dividends, and other money, settling any disputes, and distributing or transferring the remaining property to her heirs.
Through probate, there is an actual transfer of ownership of the Decedent’s property by proving her will to be valid in a court of law. The purpose of probating a will in a court of law in Texas is to protect the rights of the family, those entitled to receive property, and the creditors of the Decedent’s estate.
2. **Gather documents.** When someone close to you passes away, there are a number of administrative matters that should be addressed right away. Some of the more important things include beginning her funeral and burial arrangements and obtaining several copies of her death certificate. You can get these from the Texas Department of State Health Services Vital Statistics Unit.
You need to locate and gather important documents pertaining to the Decedent’s will, any trusts that may exist, stocks, bank accounts, and insurance policies.
3. **Notify others of the death.** There are certain people related to the Decedent's estate that need to be contacted when she dies. If she was eligible to receive Social Security, you need to contact the Social Security Administration to give notice of her death. You should give death notice to the administrator of her pension plan and you also need to notifying any life insurance companies of her death as well. The executor named in the will and the attorney who prepared it should also be contacted.
You should also consider contacting the trustee of any trust created by the Decedent and the attorney who prepared it.
The banks and financial institutions that she used also need to be notified of her death. This includes any credit card companies with which she had an account.
You also need to pay the medical bills, but before you do, you should verify that all insurance and Medicare claims have been processed.
4. **Learn about Muniment of Title.** One alternative to probate is Muniment of Title. This process exists for estates where the decedent has no unpaid debts. Administration therefore becomes unnecessary because there are no unpaid creditors.
Although the estate cannot have debts, there can be liens on real estate.
Muniment of Title is the only option for a will that hasn’t been probated within 4 years of the decedent’s death. However, there must be “good cause” for filing after 4 years (such as the will wasn’t found until then).
To initiate the Muniment of Title process, you must file a pleading in the probate court that there are no unpaid debts and that the decedent has either died within the past 4 years or that there is “good cause” that the will was not entered into probate earlier. You must serve a citation on all of the decedent’s heirs and include a clause that the will won’t be admitted into probate if the proponent of the will caused the delay.
Once the court issues its order, you can use that order to transfer property. In short, the order becomes the equivalent of a new deed to real estate.
5. **Consider Affidavit of Heirship.** This process allows you to avoid probate administration by transferring title to property, typically a homestead. It is used when no will exists. Even estates without wills must go through probate; using the Affidavit of Heirship will help you avoid that process.
Property cannot be transferred by Affidavit of Heirship if the property was used to secure a debt.
There is a uniform affidavit available here. The form asks for information about the decedent and the decedent’s family. It must be notarized and signed by two disinterested witnesses who are not heirs.
An affidavit form exists for a vehicle as well. It is form VTR-262 and is available at this website.
File the affidavit with the county clerk of the county where the property is located.
6. **Discuss informal family agreements.** Texas courts recognize that the estate belongs to the decedent’s heirs. Should they agree to a division of the property, then the courts will recognize and enforce that contract.
Informal settlements of estates typically happen when the estate consists only of personal property. Informal family agreements are not appropriate where the estate contains stocks, bonds, or bank accounts.
If the decedent left a vehicle, then the family can file an Affidavit of Heirship for the vehicle with the county tax assessor’s office.
Family settlement agreements can also be used when a party wants to contest the will. To avoid a will contest, the beneficiaries of the will agree to contract how the estate will be divided. Typically, they negotiate using attorneys. They agree not to probate the will and agree on how the property should be disposed.
7. **Determine the assets that exist.** The Decedent's estate consists of any real and personal property owned by her at the time of death. Real property includes land and improvements located on the land. Real property also includes oil, gas, and other mineral interests. Personal property is all property other than real property, including cash and bank accounts, clothing and personal effects, household furnishings, motor vehicles, stocks and bonds, and life insurance policies.
Personal property also includes any government, retirement, or employee benefits that she has.
8. **Decide what are probate assets.** Once the Decedent dies, you need to figure out which assets will pass through the estate. While a will helps distribute the Decedent's property once she dies, it does not control everything. Probate assets are those included in a will that transferred to an individual named in the will. These include assets and real properties titled in her name as well as personal property such as jewelry, furniture, and automobiles.
Bank accounts that are solely in her name, interests in a partnership, corporation, or limited liability company, and any life insurance policy or brokerage account that lists either the Decedent or the estate as the beneficiary are also probate assets.
Common types of property that pass through an estate include motorized vehicles such as cars, boats, and recreational vehicles, stocks, bonds, investment and retirement accounts, and real estate.
Make sure you know about all the bank accounts. Some have more than one bank and additional accounts such as certificates of deposit (CDs) and other investment accounts.
9. **Distinguish non-probate assets.** The Decedent’s estate may be comprised of non-probate assets as well. The distribution of these assets is not controlled by the Decedent’s will or estate. Non-probate assets include joint accounts or joint property with rights of survivorship. These assets also include accounts with designated beneficiaries, including IRAs, assets owned and accounts held with a pay-on-death (P.O.D.) or transfer-on-death (T.O.D.) designation, assets and properties held in trusts, and life insurance or brokerage accounts that list someone other than the Decedent as the beneficiary
In cases with rights of survivorship, the other joint owner becomes the full owner of the property despite what a Decedent leaves in her will.
10. **Calculate the value of the estate.** Once you have determined what property passes through the probate estate, add up the value of each item in order to get the total value of the probate estate. You should exclude the value of her primary home, any outstanding debts she had, and all property that is located outside the state of Texas.
All property passing through the estate that is in Texas should be included in your calculation of the value of the estate.
11. **Appoint an executor.** Once all the necessary people are notified and the assets are divided, the estate administration can begin. This is undertaken by the executor, which is named in the will. This process settles any outstanding needs of the estate. The executor pays the debts and claims against the estate, pays any of estate taxes, and distributes the remainder of the estate to those entitled to it. She also determines any heirs if the Decedent died without a will. Estate administration is required in most other circumstances, though it isn't used in small cases.
If the court appoints a representative because the will does not name an executor or there was no will, that person is called an administrator.
The executor or administrator has to be approved by the court and has legal obligations and duties to the court and those who receive property from the estate.
If the executor or administrator acts improperly, he or she may be held liable for any resulting damages to the estate, and his or her appointment may be terminated by the court.
12. **Administer an estate independently.** In Texas, there are two different methods of administering an estate. Independent administration is the management of the estate free of court involvement. After an independent executor or administrator is approved and an inventory of the estate assets is filed with the court, the executor or administrator can simply take care of the administration of the estate without any further court supervision. The independent executor or administrator is free to handle any debts, property disputes, and monetary needs of the estate.
The benefits of an independent administration are that it avoids the costs and delays associated with the other form of administration.
A Testator can provide for an independent administration of her estate by inserting in the will a clause such as: “I appoint _______________________ as independent executor of my estate to serve without bond, and I direct that no other action shall be had in the probate court in relation to the settlement of my estate other than the probating and recording of this will and the return of the any required inventory, appraisal, and list of claims of my estate.”
Even if an independent administration is not specified in the will, it can be granted by the judge if all heirs agree to it. Although a court usually permits independent administration, it has the power to deny the request.
13. **Have a dependent administration.** During a dependent administration, the court supervises the acts of the executor or personal representative. This requires that she get permission from the court prior to any tasks and she must report each task performed to the court. In these situations, the administrator must retain an attorney specializing in probate to spend significant time requesting court approval to sell assets and pay claims.
The administrator must also provide accounting reports and other information to the court about her administrative actions.
14. **Fill out the application.** Once you have the estate in order, you need to fill out an application for probate in Texas. Applications to the court for administration of an estate typically averages $251.00 to $273 in Texas, which is the cost of the filing fee. You can get these forms online or at the probate court.
15. **Wait for the hearing.** Once you file the application, Texas probate law requires that you wait approximately 2 weeks before you can have a hearing on the Application for Probate. During the 2 week waiting period, the County Clerk posts a notice at the courthouse that an application has been filed for probate. This posting serves as notice to anyone who might want to contest the will or administration.
If a contest to the Application for Probate is not filed within the noticed period of time, the Court can move forward in recognizing the validity of the will.
16. **Attend the hearing.** Once the waiting period has passed, a hearing will be held before the probate Judge. At the hearing, the Court acknowledges that the Decedent has died, that the Court has jurisdiction over the case for all administration procedures, the person applying to be the executor is qualified for the position, and the will was valid.
The judge usually rules in the favor of the executor, but it is up to the Judge to make the final decision.
17. **Hire an attorney.** Most Texas courts require an attorney to represent the executor of an estate. The local rules of most of the Courts hearing probate cases in Texas require that a person applying to administer an estate in probate court must be represented by an attorney so they can better understand all the intricacies of the position. Most Courts will not let a person serve as an independent executor without an attorney because many creditors and beneficiaries are affected by the probate process.
This stipulation protects the beneficiaries and executor because the executor has a duty to act for the benefit of the beneficiaries. The attorney can help make sure both parties are protected.
This also protects the executor or administrator when she performs important duties for all of the beneficiaries and heirs of the estate. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Probate-an-Estate-in-Texas", "language": "en"} |
How to Cure the Evil Eye | The evil eye is a popular belief that somebody can voluntarily or involuntarily bring disease and disgrace to another person by looking at them, usually brought on by envy. In some cultures, the belief is focused on children, where someone can inadvertently give a child the evil eye by complimenting them, as it draws in negative energy. If you think you or your child is suffering from the evil eye, you can use the methods below to help diagnose and cure it.
1. **Notice the symptoms.** The negative energy of an envious person can cause physical symptoms that are not related to a disease, such as weakness, eye infections, upset stomach, fever and nausea. Also, it is likely that the affected person will have personal, family or professional problems without any apparent cause.
2. **Follow the coal method.** This method is practiced in Eastern Europe. Simply drop a piece of charcoal into a pan of water. You can also use the head of a match that has burned. Sinking is a good sign, while floating means a person or child has been affected.
Usually a parent or healer performs these rituals, if the sufferer is a child. If not, the sufferer can perform them.
3. **Try the wax method.** Another method is to drip hot wax into holy water. Watch how the wax reacts. If it splatters, it means you or the child you are testing for have the evil eye. The same is true if it sticks to the side. People in the Ukraine employ this method.
4. **Try the oil method.** With this method, the person diagnosing the condition drops oil into water. If it forms an eye, the child is thought to have the evil eye. Another way is to pour oil over a lock of the affected person's hair into a glass of water (preferably holy water). If the oil sinks, then the person has the evil eye.
In turn, special prayers are said until the oil doesn't form an eye to cure it. The person dropping the oil is praying for the evil eye to leave the person. Some suggest there are special prayers for this process, which you can learn from a local healer.
5. **Try the touch method.** The easiest way to cure the evil eye, according to some, is to have the person who caused the evil eye touch the child. Since the evil eye is usually unintentional, the person should have no problem with simply touching the child. It doesn't matter where the child is touched. On the hand or forehead should suffice.
This belief is most prominent in Hispanic cultures.
Evil eye is supposedly caused (sometimes) by a person complimenting a child without touching him or her.
6. **Use an egg.** In Mexico and Latin countries, some parents use an egg. They pass the egg over the child's body, commonly a prayer is said along with this such as the Our Father, and then put the egg in bowl beneath the pillow. They leave it there during the night and check to see if the white is foggy in the morning. If it is, the child was affected by the evil eye. This method also cures the evil eye at the same time.
7. **Try hand gestures.** Some say that making certain gestures with your hand can ward off or cure the evil eye. One gesture is the mano cornuto, which is just a fist with the index and pinkie extended (horned hand). Point your hand down when making this gesture. Another is the mano fico, where you stick your thumb in between your index finger and middle finger (fig hand) in a fist.
Some Italians carry a little red horn (corna) around by wearing it or keeping it on a key chain. The horn is worn in place of making the horned hand sign.
8. **Find a six-sided mirror.** One method said to cure the evil eye is the use of a mirror to reflect back bad energy. This method is used in China. You simply hang the mirror in a front window or on the front door.
Some people in India also use mirrors to cure or ward off evil eye. However, instead of placing it in the home, small mirrors are sewn into clothes or worn on the body.
9. **Use a healer.** Folk healers often provide cures for the evil eye. If you don't feel confident in healing the evil yourself, you can try a healer, who will perform the rituals for you.
10. **Use a pink coral bracelet.** Some suggest that putting a pink coral bracelet on your child will help protect against the evil eye. Others suggest having the child wear a buckeye has the same effect.
11. **Try a red string.** In Jewish cultures, parents use a red string to fend off the evil eye. For instance, sometimes it's tied around a crib bar or the stroller handle.
12. **Have the baby wear a jet amulet.** In some Hispanic cultures, babies wear an amulet made of black jet. Often, it's shaped as a small fist. You may see it with red and black beads on a gold chain.
13. **Use the spit method.** When someone gives your child a compliment, you can try spitting over your left shoulder three times and then touching wood (or knocking your own head) three times. This method is most often used in Russia.
14. **Scatter salt.** One Sicilian method of protection is to scatter salt on the floor inside the front door or outside the house. The salt (with innumerable grains) is supposed to confuse evil-casters.
Another method Sicilians use is the urine method, where everyone in the house pees in a bucket. Then the urine is spilled in front of the house.
15. **Try an eye charm.** Many cultures use eye charms to protect against evil eye. You can wear one on a necklace, for instance, or use one as a key chains. In Turkey, these little charms are made out of blue glass, but other cultures make them out of other materials. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Cure-the-Evil-Eye", "language": "en"} |
How to Train a Dog | This wikiHow article takes you through everything you need to know about training a dog - including basic dog commands, potty training, crate training, leash training, obedience training, clicker training, and more.
1. **Manage your expectations and mood.** Not every training day is going to be perfect, but don’t get frustrated and don’t take it out on your dog. Adjust your own behavior and attitude to encourage your dog’s ability and confidence to learn. If you have a calm mood, generally your dog will, too.
If the dog becomes afraid of your bad mood, s/he will not learn anything new. S/he'll only learn to be wary and not trust you.
Dog training classes and a good trainer can help you improve your behavior which will translate to success with your dog.
2. **Keep your dog’s temperament in mind.** All dogs have different temperaments. Just like kids, different breeds learn differently and at different rates. Some dogs are stubborn and will challenge you at every turn. Others will bend over backwards to please you. You may need to adjust your training techniques to meet the need of your dog’s temperament.
3. **Give immediate rewards.** Dogs don’t understand long-term cause and effects. They learn fast. You must praise or reward your dog within of a desired behavior to reinforce that behavior. If you wait too long, s/he will not associate the reward with the action you asked him to perform.
Furthermore, you must make sure that your praise is fast enough to be accurate. Otherwise, you may reward behaviors that you don't want.
Imagine, for example, that you are teaching your dog the “sit” command. S/he sits for just a moment, but by the time you praise and reward him/her, s/he's started standing back up. In this case, you are rewarding the standing behavior, not the sitting behavior.
4. **Consider clicker training.** Clicker training is a method of delivering immediate praise with the help of a clicker. You can click faster than you can give a treat or pet your dog's head. As such, clicker training reinforces good behavior fast enough for a dog's learning speed. It works by creating a positive association between the click sound and rewards. Eventually, your dog will consider the sound of the clicker itself reward enough for good behavior. You can apply the principle of clicker training to any dog command.
Click the clicker device, then immediately give the dog a treat. This creates a positive association with the click sound. Later, that sound will “mark” a behavior as correct so the dog knows that s/he did something right.
When the dog performs a desired behavior, make the click sound, then give him a treat. Once s/he's performing that behavior consistently, you can give the behavior a command name. Begin tying the command and the behavior together with the help of the clicker.
For example, before you ever teach your dog the "sit" command, give the click sound, a treat, and praise when you find him/her sitting. When s/he begins sitting just to get the treats, start saying the word "sit" to get him/her into position. Pair it with the click sound to reward him/her. Eventually, s/he will learn that sitting in response to the "sit" command will earn him/her a click reward.
5. **Be consistent.** Your dog won’t understand what you want from him/her if his/her environment lacks consistency. Everyone who lives with your dog should understand and be on board with his/her training goals. For example, if you are training your dog not to jump on people, don’t let the kids allow the dog jump all over them. This will undermine all the training you’ve done.
Make sure everyone uses the exact commands your dog learns in training. S/he doesn’t speak English, and can’t tell the difference between “sit” and “sit down.” Using those terms interchangeably will only confuse him/her.
Because s/he won’t make a clear connection between a single command and a single action, his/her response to the command will be hit or miss.
6. **Always reward success and good behavior with praise, and sometimes a small treat.** Small treats help motivate your dog to learn his/her training. The treat needs to be small, tasty, and easily chewed. You don't want it to interrupt the training session or make them full too quickly.
Consider how long it takes to chew a hard treat versus a semi-moist treat like “Bill Jack” or “Zuke’s Mini Naturals.” Treats about the size of a pencil eraser head are enough to get the positive point across, and you don't have to wait long for your dog to eat it.
7. **Use "high value" treats when needed.** When teaching difficult or important a command, use a “high value” treat to raise the stakes for him/her. Examples include freeze-dried liver, roasted chicken breast chunks, or slices of turkey lunch meat.
As the dog learns the command, phase out the high value treats and bring them back as needed to advance your training, but always give him/her praise.
8. **Train on an empty stomach.** Don't feed as large a meal as usual a few hours before training your dog. The more your dog wants the treat, the more focused s/he'll be on the task s/he needs to perform to get it.
9. **Always end training on a positive note.** Even if the training session did not go well and your dog didn't catch on to a new command, end on something that you can praise him/her for. By ending the training session with a command s/he's already mastered, the last thing s/he remembers will be your love and praise.
10. **Discourage barking.** If your dog barks at you when you don't want him/her to, just ignore him/her until s/he stops, and then reward him/her with praise. Sometimes they bark at you for attention, while other times it may be out of frustration.
Do not throw a ball or toy. This only teaches him/her that if he barks, s/he'll get you to do something s/he wants.
Don't yell at the dog to be quiet, as this rewards him/her with attention.
11. **Take your dog on regular walks with a leash.** This is important not just for training, but for his/her physical and mental health. Depending on what breed of dog you have, he may need a lot of exercise to keep him/her happy and in shape.
12. **Discourage pulling.** Most dogs will pull on the leash when they're learning to take walks. When s/he starts pulling, stop immediately. Don't take another step until the dog comes to your side and focuses his/her attention on you.
13. **Change directions.** An even more effective method is to walk in the opposite direction and encourage your dog to come with you. Once s/he's caught up, praise and treat him/her.
14. **Make it fun to be by your side.** Your dog's natural impulse is to chart his/her own course and investigate his environment. You need to make walking by your side more appealing that that. Use an enthusiastic voice when changing directions, and lavish him with praise when he comes back to your side.
15. **Pair the behavior with a verbal command.** Once the dog walks consistently at your side, you can give the behavior a name, like “heel" or “let’s go.”
16. **Understand the value of the command.** The “come” is used whenever you want your dog to come to you. This command is potentially life-saving, as it can prevent your dog from running off if he gets loose.
17. **Prepare your dog for “come” training.** You always want to start training indoors (or in your fenced yard) with low distraction. Attach a 6-foot leash to your dog’s collar so that you have a way to keep his attention and prevent him from running away.
18. **Attract your dog’s attention.** You want to make him run toward you. You can do this with high-pitched noises associated with play, with a toy, with an excited clap, or just opening your arms. Running a short distance away from him and then stopping can also work, as dogs will naturally start to chase.
Use praise and your “happy voice” to encourage him to move toward you.
19. **Give immediate praise.** Sound your clicker, give him praise in your “happy voice,” and give him a treat when your dog reaches your side.
20. **Pair the behavior with the verbal command.** As your dog begins to realize he’ll be rewarded for coming to you, start giving the verbal command “come.” When he responds to the command, reinforce it in praise by pairing it with “good”: “good come!”
21. **Move the training to more public spaces.** Because the “come” command could save your dog's life, he must learn to respond to it even when he's distracted. Move the training sessions from your home or yard to a public park. There are more sights, sounds, and smells demanding his attention there.
22. **Increase the leash length.** You began training with a 6-foot leash, but you want your dog to come longer distances than that. Try attaching two leashes together to increase the distance.
23. **Work up to training your dog off the leash in a fenced environment.** This will teach him to come over long distances.
Ask someone to help with off-the-leash training. You can play “ping pong” and take turns calling the dog to each of you.
24. **Give enormous rewards.** Because this command is so important, the praise you give for performing it should be extravagant. Responding to the "come" command should be the best part of your dog's day.
25. **Do not create a negative association with this command.** No matter how upset you are, never reinforce the "come" with anger. Even if you're furious that your dog slipped the leash and ran free for five whole minutes, lavish him with praise when he finally responds to the "come." Remember that you're praising the last thing he did did, and the last thing he did was to come to you.
Don’t ever correct, yell, yank or in any way make coming to you a bad thing. You can undo years of training with one bad experience.
Never do something your dog won't enjoy after giving a "come." Though you may be tempted to give the command when you need to give him a bath, trim his nails, or cleans his ears, the "come" should always lead to joy.
If you have to do something your dog won't like, just go and get the dog yourself instead of giving the command. Praise the dog along the way for being calm and accepting of the task. You can use treats, of course.
26. **Go back to basics.** If you have a scare where your dog runs loose and ignores the "come" command, go back to leash training. Continue working on the leash until he responds reliably to the "come."
Don't rush the training on this command. It's too important to do half-heartedly.
27. **Reinforce the training throughout your dog’s life.** Because this behavior is so important, it must be reinforced throughout his entire lifetime. If you take off-leash hikes with your dog, keep treats in your pocket to reinforce the command.
You also want a command to let the dog know that it does not have to be right next to you all the time. Something like “free” is one way to phrase it, but the idea is that the dog can do what it wants and is not under command until you give it one.
28. **Keep the fun going.** You don’t want the dog to think that every time they come to you, the fun stops, someone puts on the leash, and they go back home. Otherwise, you will start to get less reliable and less happy “comes.” So, call the dog, praise them when they arrive and set them “free” to play again.
29. **Acclimate the dog to collar grabs.** This doesn’t have to be paired with any verbal commands. When the dog comes to you, grab his collar so he doesn’t grow skittish every time he feels someone touch it.
When you lean over to reward him for the "come," include grabbing the collar in your hand and petting around the neck as you give him his treat.
Once in a while, but not always, the leash should be attached when you grab the collar.
Also, you can always attach a short leash and let them “free” again. Leashes should mean fun things are about to happen and we get to go places. There is no room for harsh corrections.
30. **Understand the purpose of the "listen" command.** Also known as the "watch me" command, the "listen" is one of the first commands you should teach your dog. You'll use it to get your dog’s attention so you can give him the next command or direction. Some people just use their dog’s name instead of the "listen." This is especially useful if you have more than one dog. That way, each individual dog will know when you want it to focus on you.
31. **Prepare a handful of treats.** These may be dog treats you buy at the store, or hot dogs cut into small pieces. Choose a treat that you know your dog loves and will perform for.
32. **Stand near your dog.** Don’t engage with him, though. If he reacts to your presence, stand still and look away until he loses interest.
33. **Say "Listen" in a quiet but firm voice.** If you're using your dog's name instead of the "listen" or "watch me" commands, say his name instead. The tone and volume should be the same as if you were calling a person's name to get their attention.
34. **Don't raise your voice to get his attention.** Save the big booming voice for “life saving” situations, like if he escapes his fence or leash. If you rarely raise your voice, you'll get your dog’s undivided attention when you do need to yell. But if you are always “loud” to your dog, they will ignore that sound and tune it out. Shouting will no longer be regarded as something that commands special attention.
Dogs have excellent hearing — far better than ours. A fun twist on this command is to see how quietly you can whisper and have your dog respond. People will think you are the “dog whisperer” when you can get him to perform commands with hardly a whisper.
35. **Give an immediate reward for the desired response.** As soon as your dog stops what he's doing and looks toward you, praise him and give him a treat. Make the click sound before giving praise or a treat if you're using clicker training.
Remember that your response must be immediate. The faster you reward him, the better he'll understand the relationship between command, behavior, and reward.
36. **Discontinue treats eventually.** Once he's mastered the command, you shouldn't give him treats for performing it; however, you should still use your clicker or give verbal praise.
Weaning the dog off treats is important because he may start to expect treats all the time. You'll end up with a dog who only performs when you have food.
Praise your dog regularly even after he's mastered a command, but treat him intermittently. That's the way to keep it solid in his doggy vocabulary.
Once he's mastered command, you can use treats to shape the behavior to be faster or more accurate. He will soon realize that the treats come with the command or activity that follows the "listen."
37. **Get your dog into a standing position.** The purpose of the "sit" is get your dog to transition from standing to sitting, not just continue sitting. Walk into your dog or step away from him to get him into a standing position.
38. **Position yourself in his line of sight.** Stand directly in front of the dog so that his attention is focused on you. Let him see that you have a treat in your hand.
39. **Focus the dog's attention on the treat.** Begin with the treat held down at your side. Raise that hand in front of the dog’s nose to let him get the scent, then to above his head level.
When you hold the treat above the dog’s head, most dogs will naturally sit to get a better view of it.
40. **Give him an immediate treat and praise.** Follow the routine of clicker-treat/praise or just treat and praise. Say “good sit” when he's performing the behavior you are practicing. He may be slow at first, but more treats and praise will speed up his response.
Make sure that you do not praise him until his butt touches the ground. If you praise halfway through the sit, the dog will think that is what you want.
Also, make sure that you do not praise him for getting back up, or you will get that behavior instead of the sit.
41. **If your dog does not sit with the treat technique, you can use your leash and collar.** Stand next to the dog, facing the same direction as him. Place a little backward pressure on the collar to encourage a sit.
You may even need to encourage the sit by adding a little gentle scoop behind the dog’s hind legs. Gently lean the dog backward with the help of the collar while doing this.
As soon as he sits, give him immediate praise and reward.
42. **Don't repeat the command.** You want the dog to respond on the first utterance, not the second, third, or fourth. If the dog does not perform the behavior within 2 seconds of your command, reinforce the command with the help of your leash.
When you begin training a dog, never give a command that you are not in a position to reinforce. Otherwise, you risk training the dog to ignore you because there is no follow through from your end and the commands have no meaning.
Create a positive meaning for the dog with praise and consistency.
43. **Praise natural sitting behavior.** Look for times throughout the day when your dog just sits on his own. Praise that behavior, and pretty soon you'll have a dog that sits for attention instead of jumping or barking at you.
44. **Get your dog’s attention.** Get some food treats or a toy and find your dog. Hold the toy or treat in view so he focuses on you.
45. **Use the treat or toy to encourage your dog to lie down.** Do this by moving the toy or treat onto the ground in front of the dog, between his front legs. His head should follow it, and his body should follow shortly thereafter.
46. **Give immediate praise.** When the dog’s stomach is on the ground, lavish him with praise and give him the treat or toy. Be accurate with your praise, too. If you praise him halfway down or up, that is the behavior you will get.
47. **Increase your distance.** Once he’s learned the behavior with the promise of a treat below him, move a little farther away. The hand signal for “down” will become your flat hand — palm down — moving in a downward direction from in front of your waist to your side.
As the dog gets more consistent with the "down" behavior, add a verbal “down” or “lie down” command.
Always praise him immediately when his belly is on the ground.
Dogs read body language well and learn hand signals quite quickly.
48. **Lengthen the "down."** As he gets more reliable with “down,” pause a few seconds before praising and treating to encourage him to hold the position.
If he pops up to get the treat, do not give it to him, or you will be rewarding the last behavior he did before the treat.
Just start again, and the dog will understand that you want him all the way down on the ground, as long as you are consistent.
49. **Don't lean over your dog.** Once your dog has caught onto the command, stand up straight when giving it. If you loom over him, you'll have a dog that only lays down when you are leaning over him. You want to work on being able to get your dog to lie down from across the room, eventually.
50. **Begin doorway “wait”-training early.** Teaching a dog to respect the threshold is important. You do not want a dog that runs out the door every time it opens — that could be dangerous for him. Doorway training doesn't need to happen every single time you go through a doorway. But you should make the most of your training opportunities early in your puppy's life.
51. **Place the dog on a leash.** You should have him on a short leash that allows you to change his direction from a close distance.
52. **Walk to the door.** Bring the dog along with you on his leash.
53. **Give a “wait” command before stepping through.** If your dog moves to follow you when you step through the door, use the leash to stop his forward movement. Try again.
54. **Praise him when he waits.** When he realizes that you want him to stay in the door instead of walking through it with you, lavish him with praise and rewards for the "good wait."
55. **Teach him to sit in the threshold.** If the door is closed, you can even teach your dog to sit as soon as you place your hand on the doorknob. He'll then wait while the door is opened, and not cross the threshold until you release him. This training should be done on leash at the beginning, for his safety.
56. **Give a separate command to encourage him through the doorway.** You might use a "come" or a "free." Whatever command you use, it should be the only thing that allows your dog to exit your home.
57. **Increase the distance.** Practice leaving the dog at the threshold and do something on the other side. You might get the mail or take out the trash before you return and praise him. The idea is that you do not always call him across the threshold to meet you. You can also come back to him.
58. **Have him wait patiently while you prepare his meal.** There’s nothing more annoying than a dog who jumps and barks while you’re trying to prepare his meal. Instead, use the “wait” command he learned in doorway training to have him wait outside the threshold of the room where he's fed.
When you're ready, have your dog work for his food by commanding the dog “sit” and “stay” while you place the food on the ground.
Stand up and wait a few breaths before giving your release word. You can use “free” or you can create a new command for feeding time like “get your food” or “yummy.” Try to choose something you wouldn't accidentally say to other people, such as "time to eat," or, "let's eat," as this might falsely cue your dog that it's time for his dinner.
Eventually, he will sit on his own as soon as he sees his feeding bowl.
59. **Hand feed your dog.** At meal time, start feeding your dog out of your hand. Then use your hands to put the rest of the food in the bowl. This will put your scent on your dog’s bowl and also normalize having your hands around their bowl and food. This should help fix or prevent any food aggression tendencies.
60. **Teach your dog to “leave it.”** Teaching your dog to move his nose away from food and other items can be beneficial in a number of situations, including when food is accidentally dropped on the floor during family dinner or when your dog seems interested in picking up something potentially harmful during a walk. To teach this command, do the following:
Stage one: Hold a treat in your closed hand. The dog will probably lick, sniff, and paw at your hand in an attempt to get to the treat. Eventually, when the dog moves his nose away, praise him and give him the treat.
Stage two: Add in the words “leave it.” Say these words when your dog decides to move his nose away.
Stage three: Hold one treat in your palm in front of the dog and one behind you in the other hand. Instruct your dog to “leave it.” If the dog gets too close to the treat, make a fist to hide the treat and say “no” or “uh-oh” to show the dog that he won’t be rewarded or noncompliance. When he obeys the “leave it” command, give him the treat that’s behind your back.
Stage four: Place the treat on the floor. Move the treat from your palm to the floor. Continue to reward your dog with the treat you have behind your back.
Stage five: Put your dog’s leash on and walk past the treat on the floor. Command him to “leave it” without jerking the leash. If he eats the treat, go back to an earlier stage.
Stage six: Start using the “leave it” command outside of your home.
61. **Understand the command.** The “take” is used whenever you want the dog to take something you offer into his mouth.
62. **Give your dog a toy to play with.** Give him the verbal command “take” as you do so. As he takes the toy in his mouth, reward him for the behavior with praise. (Plus, he gets to play with the toy!)
63. **Transition to less rewarding objects.** It's easy for a dog to learn "take" when the object is so much fun! When he's mastered the connection between command and behavior, move on to boring objects. Examples might include newspapers, light bags, or anything else you might want him to carry.
64. **Pair “take” training with “drop it” training.** Once he takes the toy, use the command “drop it” to have the dog release the toy back to you. Give him a treat and praise when he releases the toy, then start again with “take.” You don’t want the dog to think that the fun stops every time he releases the toy.
Do not get into a tugging match with the dog. When you tug, the dog tugs back harder.
65. **Understand the value of the “stand” command.** The value of the "sit" and "wait" seem obvious, but you may not understand at first why the "stand" is an important skill to teach your dog. You won't use the "stand" every day, but you'll need it throughout the dog's life. For example, a dog who can stay calmly in a "stand" is the ideal patient at a vet clinic or client at a groomer's.
66. **Prepare for the training session.** Grab his favorite toy or prepare a handful of treats to both focus your dog's attention and reward him for learning the command. Put the dog in a starting "down" or "lie down" position when working with the "stand" command. He should move from lying down to standing up to get his toy or treats.
67. **Focus the dog’s attention.** You want to coax him into the standing position by having him follow the toy or treat. Hold the toy or treat in front of his face, at nose height.
If he sits, thinking that will earn him a reward, try again, but with the treat or toy slightly lower.
68. **Encourage the dog to follow your hand.** Flatten your hand with your palm down. If you're using a treat, hold it with your thumb against your palm. Start with your hand in front of his nose and move it away a few inches. The idea is that the dog will stand up while following your hand.
You may need to use your other hand to encourage him from underneath his hips to get the idea at first.
69. **Give immediate praise.** As soon as he reaches the standing position, praise and treat. Although you haven't yet started using the verbal "stand" command, you can use it in your praise: "good stand!"
70. **Add the verbal "stand" command.** At first, you will work only on getting your dog to stand by following the hand that holds his toy or treat. When he's mastered that concept, begin incorporating the "stand" command into the training sessions.
71. **Combine the “stand” with other commands.** There are many ways to combine commands. After getting your dog to "stand," you might add a “wait” or “stay” command if you want the dog to stand for longer periods of time. You can also follow with a "sit" or "down" to do some “doggy drills,” and gradually increase the distance between you and the dog. Eventually, you'll have your dog performing these commands from across the room.
72. **Understand the command.** The “speak” command teaches your dog to bark in response to your verbal cue. On its own, this command is something of a novelty. But in combination with the “quiet” command, it can help manage a barking problem in an overly vocal dog.
Take extreme caution when teaching this command. Inexperienced trainers sometimes find "speak" training spirals out of control. They end up with a dog who barks at them all the time.
73. **Clicker train your dog.** "Speak" training requires immediate praise, more so than other commands do. Teach your dog to associate the click sound with a treat by clicking and treating a few times in a row.
Continue this clicker training until your dog sees the click sound as a reward in and of itself. The treat will come later.
74. **Figure out when your dog barks most.** This will vary from dog to dog, so you have to observe your specific pet. He might bark most reliably when you withhold a treat, when someone knocks on the door, when someone rings the doorbell, or when someone honks a horn.
75. **Recreate the triggering event.** Once you’ve figured out what makes your dog bark, perform that action in front of your dog. The idea is to encourage him to bark on his own, then praise him for the action.
You can see how this might be dangerous in the hands of an inexperienced trainer.
That's why "speak" training is a little different from the other commands. You'll incorporate the verbal command from the very beginning. That way, the dog doesn't think you're praising him for his natural behavior.
76. **Use the verbal "speak" command from the beginning.** As soon as your dog barks for the very first time, give the verbal "speak" command, click, and give him a treat.
The other commands thus far have taught the behavior first, then added a command that preceded the behavior.
However, "speak" training gets out of hand too easily that way. The dog gets rewarded for barking at first.
Thus, it's better to associate the verbal command with the behavior already in progress. Never reward the dog for barking without the verbal command.
77. **Combine the “speak” with the “quiet” command.** If you have a dog who naturally barks too much, you might not think teaching him to "speak" is going to help your situation. However, if you teach him to "speak," then you can also teach him to "quiet." While you may not need the "speak" for a dog who barks too much, you definitely need the "quiet."
Once your dog has mastered the "speak," begin incorporating "quiet" into your training sessions.
Give the "speak" command.
However, instead of rewarding the "speak" (barking), wait until the dog stops barking.
Give the verbal "quiet" command.
If the dog remains silent, reward the "quiet" (no barking) with a click and a treat.
78. **Understand the value of crate training.** You might think it cruel to pen a dog up in a crate for hours at a time. But dogs are instinctively den animals, so confined spaces are not as oppressive to them as they are to us. In fact, crate trained dogs will seek out their crates as a source of comfort.
Crate training is a useful way to manage your dog's behavior when he's unsupervised for extended periods of time.
For example, many owners crate their dogs when they go to sleep or leave the house.
79. **Begin crate training young.** Although older dogs can be taught to enjoy their crates as well, it's easier to train a young dog.
If your puppy is a large breed, don't train him in a large crate that you think he'll grow into.
Dogs won't relieve themselves where they sleep or relax, so you need the crate to be appropriately sized.
If you use a crate that's too large, he might urinate in the far corner of it because he has so much space.
80. **Make the crate an inviting space.** Don’t isolate him in the crate immediately by locking the door the first time you get him to enter it. You want him to create a positive association with the crate, so that he enjoys his time in there.
When you begin the crate training process, place the crate somewhere the household gathers. The idea is to make the crate part of the social scene rather than a place of isolation.
Place a soft blanket and some of your dog's favorite toys inside the crate.
81. **Encourage him to enter the crate.** Once you've made the crate an inviting space, use treats to lure him inside. At first, place some outside the door so he can explore the exterior of the crate. Then, place treats just inside the door, so he will poke his head in to retrieve them. As he grows more comfortable, place the treats further and further inside the crate.
Do this until your dog enters the crate without hesitation.
Always speak in your "happy voice" when acclimating your dog to the crate.
82. **Feed the dog in his crate.** Once he's comfortable entering the crate for treats, reinforce the positive association with mealtime.
Place his dog bowl wherever he's comfortable eating. If he's still a little anxious, you might have to place it right by the door.
As he grows more comfortable over time, place the dog bowl further back into the cage.
83. **Begin closing the door behind him.** With treats and feeding, you'll find that your dog is growing more acclimated to being in the crate. He still needs to learn how to cope with the door being closed.
Begin closing the door at mealtime, when the dog too distracted by his food to notice what's going on at first.
Close the door for very short periods, lengthening the time as the dog grows more comfortable.
84. **Don't reward the dog for whining.** When a puppy whines, it may be adorable and heartbreaking, but when a grown dog whines, it can drive you nuts. If your puppy whines inconsolably, you may have left him inside the crate for too long. However, you cannot release him from the crate until the whining stops. Remember — every reward you give reinforces the dog's last behavior, which was whining in this case.
Instead, release the dog once he's stopped whining.
The next time you close the door on the crate, leave him in for a shorter period of time.
85. **Comfort your dog during long crate sessions.** If your puppy cries when he's alone in the crate, bring the crate into your bedroom at night. Have a tick tock clock or white noise machine to help the puppy get to sleep. Make sure that they have already eliminated outside and don’t need to urinate or defecate.
Young puppies should be crated in your room at night so that you can hear them tell you they need to go out in the middle of the night. Otherwise, they will be forced to mess in the crate. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Train-a-Dog", "language": "en"} |
How to Reduce Static Noise in a Microphone | There’s nothing more frustrating than setting a microphone up for an event or recording session only to find out that there’s some strange white noise crackling through the speakers. There a handful of reasons that a microphone will emit static sounds. The most common problem is that the gain, which is basically the mic’s sensitivity, is set too high on your amp or audio interface. However, ambient sound, bad cable connections, and moving air are also common culprits. Removing static is fairly easy so long as your equipment isn’t faulty and you can always edit static out after you finish recording if you’re on a tight schedule.
1. **Lower the gain on your amp, audio interface, or mic to remove static.** In the vast majority of cases, the gain setting is to blame for static noise. Find the “gain” or “input” knob on your amplifier, interface, or mic. Turn it down 1-2 dB (decibels) and talk into the mic again to see if it helps. Keep adjusting the sound until you find a level where the static noise is completely gone.
Gain is basically how sensitive your microphone is. The higher the gain, the louder the output volume of the microphone will be. If the gain is too high, the microphone will pick up background noise and amplify it into static.
There is no “correct” or universal setting when it comes to gain. It all depends on the power of the microphone, the microphone’s diaphragm, and the settings on your amplifier or interface.
An audio interface refers to any device that converts audio to a digital signal. If you record music at home, the audio interface is that box that your mic’s XLR cable plugs into.
2. **Push your headphone and mic cables in all the way to secure them.** Static is often caused by a jack or cable not sitting correctly in its port. Give the cables connecting your mic, headphones, computer, amp, or interface a quick push to make sure they’re plugged in all the way. If one the cables is jiggling a little, it may need to be replaced to remove the static.
If the static is in your headphones but it’s not present when you speak into the mic or record audio, the headphone jack is faulty. Just get new headphones and the static will go away.
3. **Position the microphone at least 10 ft (3.0 m) away from speakers, amps, or devices.** If you’re speaking into a mic and sending the audio out of an amplifier or speaker at the same time, changing where you stand will remove the feedback. Occasionally, the low- or high-frequency sounds from other electronics can trigger audio static. If there is a phone, TV, or other audio equipment near the microphone, move it.
Feedback is a result of the ambient noise being projected into the air and cycling back through the microphone. This happens over and over again until the resulting sound is the high-pitched feedback that sounds like fingernails on the blackboard.
Find out the right distance away from the microphone to record.
4. **Hold the mic 1–3 inches (2.5–7.6 cm) from your mouth when you talk.** The more space between your mic and your mouth, the more likely the mic is to pick up distorted sound in the air. Move the microphone closer to your lips to see if the static dissipates.
if the audio is too loud when you move the mic closer to your mouth, turn the gain down.
5. **Try different electrical outlets or USB ports to remove interference.** This is an uncommon solution, but it’s worth exploring before moving on. Turn your mic, speaker, amp, or audio interface off. Then, unplug every cord you’ve got plugged into a wall or USB port and put them into new outlets. Since some outlets and ports produce different currents, this may get rid of the static.
Just to clarify, if this works it isn’t because your wall outlets or USB ports are bad. It just means the electrical current clashed with something in your microphone or audio device.
6. **Soundproof your room** If you’re running into static and you record at home, soundproof the room. Either put soundproofing foam all over the walls or insulate the walls and floor with tapestries and carpets. You can also use soundproofing boards or hang curtains along the walls to reduce the sound in the room.
This will reduce the overall ambient sound in the room, which may cut down on the static you’re experiencing.
Usually, when you are recording vocals or something like that, you want to minimize reverberations and reflections.
So you can record in a closet with a bunch of clothes that can dampen the sound or record with a pop filter.
7. **Turn off any fans or AC units while recording to cut out excess noise.** Fans, air conditioning units, and heating vents pump air around your home, and this movement of air may trigger static sounds. The sound they make may also be picked up by the mic. Just shut your air conditioning, heat, or fans off when you’re recording.
Don’t run your washer, dryer, or dishwasher, while you record. Keep noises in other rooms to a minimum. A sensitive microphone may pick up small sounds from other rooms, even if you don’t notice them yourself.
8. **Put a pop filter on your microphone to remove static from your voice.** A pop filter refers to a small screen that covers your microphone to remove popping and hissing noises from p-, h-, and t-sounds. Buy a pop filter and attach it to the mic stand just below your microphone. Then, adjust the flexible part to place the fabric or metal filter in between your mouth and the mic.
Pop filters will remove any static triggered by the words you say into the mic.
If you record outdoors, get a windscreen. This is basically a big sock that goes over the microphone to filter out the sound caused by moving air.
9. **Use a DAW to edit your audio and remove static manually.** DAW is short for digital audio workspace. It refers to any program that edits and records audio. You can use the digital effects that come with most DAWs to edit the static out of your audio—either as you record or after you’ve finished recording. Download a DAW to edit your recorded audio.
Some popular DAWs include FL Studio, Sonus, Ableton, Reaper, and Cubase.
There are a handful of solid free options. WaveForm, Cakewalk, Adobe Audition 3, and Audacity are all free. If you have a Mac, GarageBand is a free DAW that comes with your computer.
10. **Put a noise gate on the audio to cut any quiet soundwaves triggering static.** A noise gate is an effect that controls and regulates volume in a recording. Open the “effects” tab in your DAW and select “gate.” Play the audio and adjust the “threshold” dial until the static disappears. You can achieve a similar effect by turning the “attack” down and increasing the “time” dial.
Some effect panels have a preset called “noise suppression.” If your noise gate has this preset, use that instead.
The gate basically looks at an audio clip and trims any sound that’s below your threshold setting. Since static is normally very subtle, it rarely has a loud soundwave. The gate will automatically cut anything below the volume you set the threshold at.
11. **Place a hard limiter on the audio if the static is caused by clipping.** A hard limiter is an effect that puts a cap on audio volume. If the static is caused by loud sounds, select “hard limiter” in your “effects” tab. Set the threshold to -1 dB or more while playing your audio. This will lower the volume of loud sounds to reduce any crackling noises triggered by high volumes.
This will lower the volume of the recording. You can compensate for the difference by turning up the overall volume of the master recording.
A hard limiter is basically the opposite of a gate. It looks at the peaks of each soundwave and checks to see if passes a certain threshold. If the static is caused by loud sounds, the hard limiter will greatly reduce the sound of the static.
12. **Open the sound settings in your computer’s control panel.** If you hear static whenever you use the built-in mic in your webcam or laptop, you can usually fix the problem in your computer’s settings. Pull up your computer’s control panel and click “Hardware and Sound.” Then, select “Sound” to open the audio devices tab.
13. **Select the recording tab and right click your microphone.** At the top of the audio devices page, there are 4 tabs. Select the second tab, labelled “Recording.” This will show you a list of every device capable of recording audio on your computer. If your mic is on, you will see the volume bar and green checkmark next to the device. Right click your mic.
14. **Click “Properties” and turn the “Microphone Boost” off.** On the pop-up menu, select “Properties” to pull up the mic’s settings. Check to see if there is an option labelled “Microphone Boost.” If you have the microphone boost option, turn it off or lower the volume on the boost to see if this resolves the problem.
Microphone boost is basically an artificial gain on your computer mic. Turning this off will typically resolve the static problem.
15. **Slide the microphone’s level up and click “Enhancements.”** Next, click the “Levels” tab at the top. Turn the volume slider on the microphone all the way up. If there is a button labelled “Enhancements,” click it to open the optional settings for your microphone.
Every version of Windows does not have the “Enhancements” button. If you don’t have it, don’t worry about it. Your problem should be resolved.
16. **Turn “Noise Suppression” and “Echo Cancellation” on.** In the “Enhancements” tab, there are a few options for the microphone. Make sure that both “Noise Suppression” and “Echo Cancellation” have checkmarks next to them. This will filter out any static sounds you experience.
If you still hear static, try updating the drivers for your webcam or microphone. If that doesn’t work, you probably need a new webcam or mic. | en.wikihow.com | {"url": "https://www.wikihow.com/Reduce-Static-Noise-in-a-Microphone", "language": "en"} |