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2019-06-04T17:28:53.913

|heated-bed|

<p>I have a <a href="https://whambamsystems.com/flexible-build-system" rel="nofollow noreferrer">WhamBam build system</a> on order. A magnet attaches (glues down I think) to the Aluminium printing bed (or add a glass sheet? Separate question), then PEX material on flexible steel sheet gets slapped down for the print surface. </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lplp5.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="WhamBam build system"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lplp5.jpg" alt="WhamBam build system" title="WhamBam build system"></a></p> <p>I have been printing PLA on a cold PEI sheet from Vertex, using 4 binder clips to hold it in place vs peeling the backing off and sticking it down. The print job wants to keep heating the bed to 60&nbsp;°C, I turn it down, a couple minutes into a job it cranks it back to 60&nbsp;°C and I turn it down again. A few times I missed the second turn on, and the PEI has been kinda warped now (or maybe it's just the plastic over the sticky backing), and has also peeled off some surface chunks in the middle, so we've been trying to print around the damaged section. The warping has now made the PEI unusable, so I'm hoping the WhamBam arrives soon.</p> <p>We've been printing for a couple of weeks now (I printed a chess set, largest has 4&nbsp;cm diameter and is 10&nbsp;cm tall, some pieces on blue tape, some on the PEI) and are starting to venture into our own designs.</p> <p>Intended project is box tops &amp; bottoms that are ~90&nbsp;mm x 65&nbsp;mm x different heights with openings. We tried one on blue tape (a bottom with no openings) and ended up chiseling it off the bed with a steel putty knife (I don't recall if heat was on or not). We tried a top with openings on the PEI, missed that the heat had turned back on, but between the bed not quite level (forgot to re-check it) and the PEI being warped we killed it after the openings were printed around. It was not going to be usable, but we did print enough to be able to confirm the opening spacings (needs work still) so it was not a total loss. Came off the PEI easily (&lt;2&nbsp;mm thick when we stopped), we managed to miss the damaged parts mostly.</p> <p>So the question: when the WhamBam arrives, is it better to print PLA at 60&nbsp;°C, or do I keep playing the game of turning it down (and saving the waiting time of it heating up)?</p>

10176

Printing PLA on PEX surface - is heated bed needed?

<p>Received and installed the WhamBam system, and it works great! Have been letting it heat to 60C, which I'm pretty sure is not making it all the way thru the magnet, flex steel plate, and the PEX surface, but parts are adhering great and pop right off the PEX just by the act of picking up the plate, even a large box bottom (~68mm x 95mm) came off so easily I thought it had lost adhesion - my wife printed several items earlier and they came off the same way. I am impressed with the system!</p> <p>We had lost a blade off the hot end fan (and turns out it was 3 blades), initial prints had failed to adhere on the PEX, the PLA didn't appear to be extruding properly, and the fan irregularity was very irritating. Internet searches indicated the plastic melting temp was not accurate enough. Replaced the fan and every print since has been great.</p> <p>EDIT 6/14/2019 Here is a youtube clip of a freshly printed door knob (screen door latch) coming off a 60C bed, no problem!</p> <p><div class="youtube-embed"><div> <iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/a7nms-t8peQ?start=0"></iframe> </div></div></p> <p>And a larger box, ~65 x 98mm, that popped right off.</p> <p><div class="youtube-embed"><div> <iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ku-fMtnlXhQ?start=0"></iframe> </div></div></p>

2019-06-05T15:32:24.787

|marlin|troubleshooting|electronics|stepper-driver|

<p>I have been looking in the Marlin firmware for about an hour or two now to find what pins I should use for UART for my tmc2208 drivers and I have come up with nothing.</p> <p>Does anyone know what they are or how to assign them? BTW, I am using the regular version of the RUMBA board not the RUMBA+ version.</p> <p>For somereason i didn't put that i want to control my stepper motor drivers through uart they are tmc2208</p>

10182

What pins do I use for UART control on a RUMBA board for tmc2208?

<p>The <a href="https://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/2/24/RRD-RUMBA_SCHEMATICS.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="RUMBA schematic">RUMBA schematic</a> is available on the <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/RUMBA" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RUMBA wiki</a>. </p> <blockquote> <p><a href="https://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/2/24/RRD-RUMBA_SCHEMATICS.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="RUMBA schematic"><img src="https://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/2/24/RRD-RUMBA_SCHEMATICS.png" alt="RUMBA schematic" title="RUMBA schematic"></a></p> </blockquote> <p>From the schematic, I see that UART3 (with +5V logic levels, not RS232) is presented on the EXP3 connector. I don't know if Marlin firmware can be controlled through a UART other than UART0, which is converted to USB through an FDDI chip. The Arduino bootloader is not expecting another UART, so you may still need to program it through the USB port (and UART0).</p>

2019-06-07T17:01:41.877

|legal|

<p>What's the legal status of Chinese 3D printer part clones such as Hiwin linear rail clones or E3D hotends?</p> <p>While it's clear that Chinese clones are certainly sub-par in quality, no question, what I wonder is whether they violate any laws (they don't use brand names or claim to be the genuine product). </p> <p>In particular, I’m interested whether it is in any way illegal to order such parts in the U.S. </p> <p>Given that there's hardly any 3D printer that doesn't contain at least one Chinese part, I really think this is on topic. </p> <p>I also don't seek legal advice but any information other 3D printer users on here have.</p>

10200

3D printer part clones from china - legality

<p>This question is really a legal question, and could apply to any cloned parts/devices rather than being 3D printer specific, and a generic counterfeit consumer goods based question should be asked on <a href="https://law.stackexchange.com">SE.Law</a>. However, as you rightly state, a lot of 3D printers from China may contain (whether knowingly sourced or not by the manufacturer¹) counterfeit parts, be that ICs, hotend designs (i.e. E3D clones), controllers (i.e. Arduino Mega boards or stand-alone non-RAMPS Arduino shield boards),or what have you. As such this is an issue that may be faced by any unwittingly innocent consumer.</p> <p>Prefacing any statement with <em>I am not a lawyer</em> (IANAL), these sections from Wikipedia entry on <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Counterfeit_consumer_goods" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Counterfeit consumer goods</a> might help answer your question:</p> <ul> <li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Counterfeit_consumer_goods#Growing_problem" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Growing problem</a> as will this </li> <li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Counterfeit_consumer_goods#United_States_2" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Enforcement- US</a>. </li> </ul> <p>In short, if they have a mind to, Customs could seize it at the border; if your house was raided (for whatever reason) law enforcement could seize your printer (although this seems unlikely, unless they were explicitly raiding your house for knock-offs); <em>and</em> (more worryingly) there is a proposal to fine those people who purchase knock-offs.</p> <p>Of course this is not the only legal issue that may be encountered when buying Chinese devices/parts from less-than-reputable suppliers o eBay or AliExpress, for example, what if:</p> <ul> <li>it breaks and what legal recourse do you have as a consumer; </li> <li>it produces a poor quality or dangerous print; </li> <li>it explodes, what legal recourse do you have; </li> <li>and so on, etc. </li> </ul> <p>These questions lead into rather murky grey and legally complex areas, and really would need to be dealt with by a legal professional (solicitor/lawyer).</p> <hr> <h3>Other Stack Exchange posts worth reading</h3> <p>These deal more with quality not legality but see </p> <ul> <li><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4209/can-cheap-hotend-parts-sourced-from-china-actually-produce-good-prints">Can cheap hotend parts sourced from China actually produce good prints?</a>, and; </li> <li>Vaguely related - <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/409/what-are-the-pros-and-cons-of-collecting-parts-yourself-versus-getting-a-diy-ki/4218#4218">What are the pros and cons of collecting parts yourself, versus getting a DIY kit and then modifying it?</a></li> <li>Also, which respect to the electronics: <ul> <li><a href="https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/55214/some-arduino-components-seem-ridiculously-cheap/55234#55234">Some Arduino components seem ridiculously cheap</a> and;</li> <li><a href="https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/71/compatibility-between-arduino-and-arduino-clones/76">Compatibility between Arduino and Arduino clones</a>.</li> <li><a href="https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/23736/arduino-clone-a-request-for-the-usb-device-descriptor-failed/66672#66672">This answer</a> to <a href="https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/23736/arduino-clone-a-request-for-the-usb-device-descriptor-failed">Arduino Clone - A request for the USB device descriptor failed</a> interestingly points out that if the device is licensed appropriately (CC, open-source, etc.) then they may not be any legal issues at all related to cloning (but not counterfeiting - See <a href="https://arduino.stackexchange.com/questions/294/whats-the-difference-between-a-clone-and-a-counterfeit-arduino">What's the difference between a clone and a counterfeit Arduino?</a>.</li> </ul></li> </ul> <hr> <p>¹ A bone fide low end oscilloscope manufacturer got stung by a batch of fake regulator ICs just last year, see <a href="https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/jye-tech-dso150-oscilloscope-troubles/msg2315163/#msg2315163" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Re: JYE Tech DSO150 oscilloscope troubles</a></p>

2019-06-08T17:20:02.833

|stl|python|

<p>Given a 3D boolean array representing voxels, how can it be converted to a 3D-printer-ready file?</p> <p>The end-goal I would like to achieve is to print the 3D shape that the numpy array represents (<code>True</code> coding for <em>fill this voxel</em>, <code>False</code> for <em>leave it empty</em>).</p> <p>For example, the array</p> <pre><code>[ [ [T, T, T], [T, F, T], [T, T, T] ], [ [T, F, T], [F, F, F], [T, F, T] ], [ [T, T, T], [T, F, T], [T, T, T] ] ] </code></pre> <p>would encode a <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Void_Cube" rel="nofollow noreferrer">level-1 Menger sponge</a>.</p>

10205

Convert a 3D NumPy array of voxels to an STL file

<p>You can try <code>mayavi.mlab</code>:</p> <h2>Usage</h2> <pre><code>from mayavi import mlab import numpy as np def draw3d_mayavi(array, path): mlab.contour3d(array.astype(np.int32)) # a window would pop up mlab.savefig(path) mlab.clf() # clear the scene to generate a new one </code></pre> <p>mayavi's recontruction is meant for generating 3D heatmap models of the array, so you have to put in a numeric one with 1s and 0s.</p> <h2>Note</h2> <p>There are some drawbacks:</p> <ol> <li><p>A window will pop out, you have to clear it in your code if you want to make multiple models.</p> </li> <li><p>The model reconstructed is .obj and can be very large. If you look closer at the model, you'll see that on the boder the mesh gets 3 layers. I guess the program assumes there to be some gradient.</p> </li> <li><p>The <code>contour3d</code> function can set <code>line_width</code>, but I don't see any sense of using it for binary data.</p> </li> </ol> <p>Yet, mayavi is very quick, at least compared with voxelfuse. Maybe some post-processing is needed to solve the size problem.</p> <h2>Doc</h2> <p>This function also enables setting color and opacity, etc. See <a href="https://docs.enthought.com/mayavi/mayavi/auto/mlab_helper_functions.html#contour3d" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Plotting functions - contour3d</a>:</p> <blockquote> <h3>contour3d</h3> <pre>mayavi.mlab.<b>contour3d</b>(<i>*args, **kwargs</i>)</pre> <p>Plots iso-surfaces for a 3D volume of data supplied as arguments.</p> <p><strong>Function signatures:</strong></p> <p><code>contour3d(scalars, ...) contour3d(x, y, z, scalars, ...)</code> scalars is a 3D numpy arrays giving the data on a grid.</p> <p>If 4 arrays, (x, y, z, scalars) are passed, the 3 first arrays give the position, and the last the scalar value. The x, y and z arrays are then supposed to have been generated by <em>numpy.mgrid</em>, in other words, they are 3D arrays, with positions lying on a 3D orthogonal and regularly spaced grid with nearest neighbor in space matching nearest neighbor in the array. The function builds a scalar field assuming the points are regularly spaced.</p> <p><strong>Keyword arguments:</strong></p> <ul> <li><p><code>color</code> the color of the vtk object. Overides the colormap, if any, when specified. This is specified as a triplet of float ranging from 0 to 1, eg (1, 1, 1) for white.</p> </li> <li><p><code>colormap</code> type of colormap to use.</p> </li> <li><p><code>contours</code> Integer/list specifying number/list of contours. Specifying a list of values will only give the requested contours asked for.</p> </li> <li><p><code>extent</code> [xmin, xmax, ymin, ymax, zmin, zmax] Default is the x, y, z arrays extent. Use this to change the extent of the object created.</p> </li> <li><p><code>figure</code> Figure to populate.</p> </li> <li><p><code>line_width</code> The width of the lines, if any used. Must be a float. Default: 2.0</p> </li> <li><p><code>name</code> the name of the vtk object created.</p> </li> <li><p><code>opacity</code> The overall opacity of the vtk object. Must be a float. Default: 1.0</p> </li> <li><p><code>reset_zoom</code> Reset the zoom to accomodate the data newly added to the scene. Defaults to True.</p> </li> <li><p><code>transparent</code> make the opacity of the actor depend on the scalar.</p> </li> <li><p><code>vmax</code> vmax is used to scale the colormap. If None, the max of the data will be used</p> </li> <li><p><code>vmin</code> vmin is used to scale the colormap. If None, the min of the data will be used</p> </li> </ul> <p><strong>Example</strong> (run in <code>ipython --gui=qt</code>, or in the mayavi2 interactive shell, see <a href="https://docs.enthought.com/mayavi/mayavi/mlab_running_scripts.html#running-mlab-scripts" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Running mlab scripts</a> for more info):</p> <pre><code> def test_contour3d(): x, y, z = np.ogrid[-5:5:64j, -5:5:64j, -5:5:64j] scalars = x * x * 0.5 + y * y + z * z * 2.0 obj = contour3d(scalars, contours=4, transparent=True) return obj ``` </code></pre> </blockquote>

2019-06-08T18:59:01.807

|wanhao|underextrusion|

<p>I have a Monoprice Maker Select V2.1 (rebadged Wanhao Di3) with a microswiss all metal hot-end and machined lever and extruder plate. It had been printing very consistently for months with this set up - through 5 or 6 kg of filament - until a couple of weeks ago when it has started to under-extrude and then stop partway into a print, after about 30-40 minutes. It seems to clog and grind the filament, skipping steps. I first assumed this was heat-creep, and so disassembled the extruder, cleaned the heatsink and applied new thermal paste before reassembling, but to no luck. I also tried new fans on the cold-end but this didn't help either.</p> <p>Other things I have tried:</p> <ul> <li>various models - point at which the extruding stops seems based on length of time printing, not z position, suggesting to me that it is not an wires/electronics issue or an issue with the file.</li> <li>various layer heights</li> <li>various temperatures</li> <li>dust filter</li> <li>various filaments (changing reels of similar filament, different colours and brands, although all PLA)</li> <li>cleaned, and subsequently replaced extruder gear to rule out wear to that</li> <li>inserted washer under lever spring to add tension</li> <li>clearing the nozzle (cleaning filament, atomic pulls and drill-bit)</li> </ul> <p>I've now run out of ideas of what could be causing the issue and what to try. What other issues could cause the above symptoms or, if it is heat-creep, how else could I solve the issue?</p>

10209

Wanhao i3 stops printing after about 40 minutes

<p><strong>The nozzle was not seated properly</strong></p> <p>Having failed to identify the problem with my current mods installed on the printer, I decided to remove everything and return the printer to factory condition to identify the problems. In particular this included replacing the all-metal hotend, and I took the opportunity to replace the insulation on the heater block too. </p> <p>On removing the insulation from around my heater block, I discovered a mass of burned-on plastic that had oozed out from around the thread of the nozzle and collected under the insulation, showing that it clearly was not screwed in tight enough. After thoroughly cleaning out the heater block, replacing the insulation and reinstalling the nozzle - and ensuring it was tightly seated against the tube - I have been able to print without issue. </p>

2019-06-09T00:20:51.997

|3d-design|print-material|material|

<p>I noticed foot arches are already digitized, but custom arch supports are usually expensive. PLA and ABS aren't the best material for printing arch supports, especially if they replace the shoe's innersole. </p> <p>Is there a more flexible material for 3D printing that could be used for making custom orthotics?</p>

10214

Material for printing orthotics

<p>Armadillo by Ninjatek is perfect with 100&nbsp;% infill and 6 layers 6 walls and 6 the other thing? As a foot pharmacist I can say the cost is associated with the education as pedorthic modalities are different to each person. Ideally it would be easy to 3D print arch supports, but it would also be easy to "hurt" the person wearing them. buy a book on pedorthics before u wear them!</p>

2019-06-11T05:04:22.853

|prusa-i3|marlin|bed-leveling|bltouch|alunar-m508|

<p>In the process of updating my printer (Alunar M508), I decided to add "Auto Bed Leveling" using a BLTouch sensor. After doing a lot of Googling:</p> <ol> <li><a href="https://github.com/skryshtafovych/alunar-prusa-i3-marlin-i3-firmware" rel="nofollow noreferrer">I found firmware</a> that will upload and work with printer in default configuration (without BLTouch)</li> <li>Adding BLTouch configuration, the software compiles and updates the printer, I see all new options in menu and BLTouch on "power on" does a self test. </li> </ol> <p>I know I have configured the power to the device correctly 2 power sources and ground but where I'm having issues is in identifying <code>Servo0</code> and <code>ZMax/Min</code> on my board. So far the black and white wire are connected to Z axis "end stop" but I cannot identify where to connect the orange signal wire to. I cannot find pinout anywhere of this board. <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ynqs.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4ynqs.jpg" alt="LSEE 3D v1.0 board and peripherals"></a></p>

10226

How to connect BLTouch sensor to Alunar M508 using LSEE 3D v1.0 board?

<p>The LSEE 3D is basically a <a href="http://greatprinterstore.blogspot.com/2016/10/cheap-lsee-3d-v10-version-mainboard.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RAMPS board</a> (your linked source also shows that the used <code>MOTHERBOARD</code> is a RAMPS board: <code>#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_RAMPS_14_EFB</code>), this implies that all pins of your board are the same as a RAMPS board. To connect the 3 pin header of the BLTouch sensor you need to connect the red wire to +5&nbsp;V and the black wire to ground; the orange wire needs to be connected to an available PWM pin. As the LSEE board does not have many exposed (free) pins for you to use, you need to re-use one of the existing PWM pins that you do not use. An example is the pin nr. 2. From the <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/pins_RAMPS.h" rel="nofollow noreferrer">pins_RAMPS.h file</a> you see in the limit switches section:</p> <pre> // // Limit Switches // #define X_MIN_PIN 3 #ifndef X_MAX_PIN #define X_MAX_PIN 2 #endif</pre> <p>It appears, from the image, that your board does have max limit end stop switches header pins available. What you could do is use the <code>X_MAX_PIN</code> for the BLTouch sensor.</p> <p>This implies that you need to assign the servo pin to pin nr. 2.</p> <p>From the servos section of the same <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/1.1.x/Marlin/pins_RAMPS.h" rel="nofollow noreferrer">pins_RAMPS.h file</a> you see that the servos are either connected to pin 7 or pin 11 (depending on the board, your linked sources use the 1.4 version). </p> <pre> // // Servos // #ifdef IS_RAMPS_13 #define SERVO0_PIN 7 // RAMPS_13 // Will conflict with BTN_EN2 on LCD_I2C_VIKI #else #define SERVO0_PIN 11 #endif</pre> <p>Using the linked sources, the 11 should be replaced with a 2. This implies that you can connect the orange wire to the "signal" pin of the X_MAX end stop connector.</p>

2019-06-11T13:39:43.343

|y-axis|bearing|monoprice-maker-select-plus|

<p>I have a Monoprice Maker Select Plus, where I'm doing the <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07B251KBS" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Gulf Coast Robotics carriage plate</a> upgrade. I was watching through an installation video just to find any &quot;gotchas&quot; I might want to watch for, and the guy in video <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GOHkaqd4inA" rel="nofollow noreferrer">recommends removing one of the carriage bearings</a>, going from 4 to 3. The idea is to get quieter, smoother travels, with less weight on the belt.</p> <p>Has anyone else here done this for this model printer? Or for the very-similar Maker Select v2/2.1? Are there any downsides I should watch for? Everything I know seems to indicate 3 bearings are just better (the whole &quot;3 points define a plane&quot; thing), but if it's that simple, why go to the cost of shipping with 4?</p> <p><strong>Update</strong></p> <p>I did end up making the switch, and it has worked well. One thing I've noticed is markedly increased ringing/ghosting. However, it should also be noted I switched to a stronger (heavier) build plate at the same time, and that likely is also contributing.</p>

10231

3 vs 4 bearings for y axis travel

<p>Ideally you would use three bearings opposed to four. In principle you will only need 3 fixtures to get a stable reference frame. Look at how most Prusa i3 "X" carriages are constructed, they also have just three bearings.</p> <p>Three bearings are way more easy to line out (especially with tight tolerance bearings), with four bearings you will get binding much more easy than with three.</p> <p>I've been using three linear (<a href="/q/6298/">self printed tight tolerance acetal/POM</a>) bearings on the moving bed (Y direction) for quite some time on a Prusa i3 type of printer made from 2040 Aluminium profiles.</p> <hr> <p><em>A similar reasoning applies to fixating the heated bed/glass slate, only three screws are necessary to define the reference plane. This is how my CoreXY heated bed is connected to the "Z" platform (a slate of glass is perfectly flat as a result of the production process).</em></p>

2019-06-12T07:55:33.040

|software|laser|linux|

<p>I am searching for a Linux software to control the 3000 mW laser engraver depicted below. It's a common model you'd find on AliExpress, Banggood, etc. under different brand names.</p> <p>I have already tried <a href="https://github.com/AxelTB/nejePrint" rel="noreferrer">nejePrint</a>, <a href="https://github.com/LaserWeb/LaserWeb4/wiki" rel="noreferrer">LaserWeb</a>, and <a href="https://github.com/camrein/EzGraver" rel="noreferrer">EzGraver</a>, but they don't work. Any ideas?</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kHoYY.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kHoYY.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

10238

Linux software for laser engraver

<p>The best is <a href="https://grid.space/kiri/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Kiri Moto</a>.</p> <p>I use CNC and the stack idea is very comfortable. Laser and FDM, SLA are available as well.</p>

2019-06-12T14:38:44.383

|ultimaker-cura|nozzle|

<p>The <a href="https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52340-quality" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ultimaker Cura documentation</a> says</p> <blockquote> <p><strong>Tip:</strong> If you use an unavailable third party nozzle size, set the line width to equal the nozzle size.</p> </blockquote> <p>I sliced an object with a 0.3&nbsp;mm line width. When the nozzle size is 0.4&nbsp;mm, the results are <em>almost</em> the same as when the nozzle is 0.3&nbsp;mm. The filament usage is slightly different and the gcode files have similar, but different, coordinates throughout.</p> <p>What does <strong>nozzle size</strong> really do besides suggest the line width?</p>

10244

What does nozzle size affect besides line width in, e.g., Ultimaker Cura?

<p>Searching the <a href="https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine" rel="nofollow noreferrer">CuraEngine source</a>, the only places I can find where nozzle size is used directly involve some arcane logic for merging of infill lines, such as:</p> <p><a href="https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/blob/05e93dabce9e863b8742fd69ed87717e1594e7a9/src/MergeInfillLines.cpp#L124" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/blob/05e93dabce9e863b8742fd69ed87717e1594e7a9/src/MergeInfillLines.cpp#L124</a></p> <p>So essentially, yes, nozzle size mainly serves as a default value for the line width settings.</p> <p>However, in general it's not always possible for line width different from nozzle size to be honored.</p> <ul> <li><p>For line widths smaller than the nozzle, motion along a path where the material being deposited has proper adhesion is required to stretch the material and prevent it from retaining the width extruded from the nozzle, and small lines already printed are likely to be damaged by the nozzle when attempting to print additional small lines in their vicinity. In particular, you won't be able to print small details significantly below the nozzle size just by extruding less material.</p></li> <li><p>For line widths larger than the nozzle, compression against an existing surface is required to prevent the extra material from just sagging down rather than expanding horizontally. In particular, line widths wider than the nozzle are unlikely to work right in the presence of overhangs.</p></li> </ul> <p>Also, as noted by Tim Kuipers in comments, there are places outside the source, but rather in the json-based configuration tree, where nozzle size plays a role in the defaults and warning ranges for other parameters. Those are mostly line widths, but</p> <blockquote> <p>The nozzle size can affect the values of the following settings besides line width in <code>fdmprinter.def.json</code>: Outer Wall Inset, Outer Wall Wipe Distance and Minimum Support XY Distance. Other than that it only influences the conditions under which setting-values give you a warning.</p> </blockquote>

2019-06-12T21:25:41.080

|large-format|

<p>Recently on one of her videos a YouTuber stated that prints from large format printers are more brittle than if you were to print them in parts and glue them together. This seems to contradict the testimonials from the customers of a large format printer, who say that they get good prints from those printers (which print have a print area of a meter square). </p> <p>Would a print form a larger format printer be more brittle than a print made of smaller pieces super glued together?</p> <p>(with all other aspects being equal e.g. the nozzle, the temps, the material and the shape of the object).</p> <p>The YouTube didn't cite any source information to back up her claim.</p>

10250

Are large format prints more brittle?

<p>I'd recommend getting the object to fit together by design, rather than glue - though I tend (if the item is never to be disassembled) use Zap-a-gap - that stuff sticks like crazy though you must not squeeze the parts together but let it naturally sit.</p>

2019-06-15T20:37:43.283

|3d-models|

<p>A fillet is like a rounded corner but on the inside of the corner.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XDTnd.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XDTnd.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>Does it make a difference (structurally) to use fillets on a 3d printed part?</p>

10272

Should I include fillets on my 3d printed parts?

<p>Fillets in X-Y plane (i.e. between two vertical surfaces) work great for 3D prints and increase the strength a lot. They usually also improve the print quality, because the print head can keep a constant speed in the curve instead of slowing down to a sharp corner.</p> <p>However fillets that extend in Z direction (i.e. between a vertical and a horizontal surface) suffer from layer artifacts. Sometimes they can look worse than a sharp corner would. While they do still increase the strength significantly, they are not as strong as similarly sized fillets in X-Y plane are.</p>

2019-06-17T13:50:30.493

|creality-ender-3|petg|

<p>We've been doing some printing with PETG filament on Ender 3 Pro printer and the result were awful: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1k0ej.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/1k0ej.jpg" alt="Overview of failed PETG prints"></a></p> <p>Here are settings we used:</p> <ul> <li>Extruder: 240&nbsp;&deg;C</li> <li>Bed: ~70&nbsp;&deg;C (&plusmn; 10&nbsp;&deg;C)</li> <li>Speed: 80&nbsp;mm/sec</li> </ul> <p>There are a few types of problems that we had:</p> <ol> <li><strong>Initially filament did not stick to the bed</strong> - those 3 items in the middle of the picture are example of this issue. This got fixed by increasing temperature of bed to 80&nbsp;&deg;C.</li> <li><strong>At some point a piece would get dis-attached from the bed and would move around together with the extruder around</strong> - two prints in the upper right corner of the picture were cancelled for this reason.</li> <li><strong>Models are very rough, like a cheaply made snowball</strong> - that tiny model in the upper left is suppose to be a cattle-bell. Could you tell?</li> </ol> <h2>Additional info</h2> <p>Filament that we used indicated</p> <ul> <li>extruder temperature 230-240&nbsp;&deg;C</li> <li>printing speed 40-90&nbsp;mm/sec</li> <li>no info about bed temperature </li> </ul> <h2>Question(s):</h2> <ul> <li>What are some optimal, tried and tested options for printing PETG? _{(Temperatures, speed, etc)}</li> <li>What are some caveats/difficulties of working with PETG to look out for? _{(For example, I've read that PETG likes slower speeds. Is that true?)}</li> <li>Is it possible that the model of 3D printer does not work well with this type of filament? _{(I don't have much experience printing so I can't know)}</li> </ul>

10288

How to work with PETG? Settings, caveats, etc

<p>I use a fine round brass brush, similar to what you would use to clean a gun barrel, to keep my nozzle clean. The brass is softer than the nozzle material, so it doesn't damage it, and the bristles grab strings easily - you barely have to touch them.</p> <p>I'm using SUNLU PETG filament in my Ender 3. It sticks VERY well to the &quot;Creality Original Ultra Removable Magnetic 3D Printer Build Surface&quot;. I'm set at 70 °C on the bed. Get your height set well. I had a ton of issues with nothing sticking until I got it dialed in. Now, it almost sticks too well. I often have to remove the magnetic sheet in order to get larger prints off it.</p>

2019-06-17T21:50:17.157

|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|nozzle|

<p>When printing objects higher than approximately 8-10&nbsp;cm, sometimes nozzle hits the printed model and knocks over it. After 7-8 hours of printing that's really annoying. I'm using Creality Ender 3 Pro with Ultimaker Cura. How can I avoid this problem?</p> <p>As a note; it happens with thick, wide models without support structure too. I'm using Ender 3 Pro's stock magnetic bed.</p> <p>Here are some photos of printed model.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0hIqg.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Failed print - photo#1"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0hIqg.jpg" alt="Failed print - photo#1" title="Failed print - photo#1"></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HNiG4.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Failed print - photo#2"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HNiG4.jpg" alt="Failed print - photo#2" title="Failed print - photo#2"></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y841k.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Failed print - photo#3"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y841k.jpg" alt="Failed print - photo#3" title="Failed print - photo#3"></a></p> <p>I use Esun PLA+, the part was on baseplate without any loss of contact. It was like one layer missed its coordinates and then all corrupted.</p> <p>I think it's not related with bed adhesion because for example for this model, it didn't knock over the model.</p> <p>There is no roof for the model, I think it doesn't need any support structure. <a href="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/35/b4/84/0c/45/74441e4966d7cc6caac1adbd2795375f_preview_featured.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Here</a> you can see the expected finished one: </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/U1nzR.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Expected finished print"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/U1nzR.jpg" alt="Expected finished print" title="Expected finished print"></a></p>

10298

How to avoid nozzle from hitting the model?

<p>It seems the problem was because of Z-axis leveling (level of the X-axis), I found out that the right side was more than 3-4&nbsp;mm below the left side when the Z-axis height exceeds around 8-10&nbsp;cm. Below 8-10&nbsp;cm, the two sides were even. I calibrated the X-axis by turning the eccentric nuts of the wheels and tighten them. I will try printing soon with some test objects.</p>

2019-06-18T17:52:56.797

|filament|3d-models|safety|food|

<p>I've recently bought myself a preassembled Prusa i3 MK3S printed and made my first projects. One of them was making a cup with my name on it. I want to use it to drink tea, water etc. I know, however, that I need to chose my filament wisely, as using the wrong one might be unsafe. I know that PLA for example is Polylactic acid which is a safe substance and occurs naturally in our body. Another thing is the dye, which can is a chemical substance I know nothing about. Do You recommend any specific type/model? Thanks.</p>

10303

Which 3D filament is 100% (or close to being so) food safe and non toxic?

<p>I think this site will answer some questions about food safe 3D printing: <a href="https://all3dp.com/1/food-safe-3d-printing-abs-pla-food-safe-filament/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">12 Vital Facts About Food Safe 3D Printing</a></p> <p>PLA is not a good choice for hot substances because it will deform at hot water temperatures which is no good for a cup (very dangerous!)</p> <p>I would recommend a filament like PETG, PETE, HDPE, and LDPE: <a href="https://www.custom-pak.com/what-plastics-are-approved-for-food-contact-applications/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">What Plastics Are Approved for Food Contact Applications?</a></p> <p>Those types of plastic require very high printing temperatures and an all metal hot end. You don't want PTFE in your hot end when printing at those temperatures (265&nbsp;°C) as it will emit toxic gasses.</p> <p>I've seen food safe filaments for sale so it might be best to search Google for one of them to use.</p> <p>Please keep in mind that printing anything will cause voids and gaps that will allow bacteria to grow. Personally I don't think I would want to risk it for daily use items but a coffee/tea cup might be alright. This is covered in the first link.</p>

2019-06-19T14:41:55.013

|print-quality|autodesk|

<p>In regards to a part that I'm having printed remotely (by two processes:- stereolithography and laser sintering), I've been advised by the 3d printing company that 'the triangulation of the file is rather rough'. </p> <p>In this particular instance, it probably doesn't matter, but for the future, are there any tips to improving 'triangulation' when generating forms in AutoCAD?</p> <p>Note, AutoCAD's FACETRES variable is set to 10. </p>

10310

Improving triangulation on AutoCAD-generated stl files

<p><a href="https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/autocad-forum/stl-files-resolution/td-p/6591803" rel="nofollow noreferrer">This thread</a> and <a href="https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/autocad/learn-explore/caas/CloudHelp/cloudhelp/2016/ENU/AutoCAD-Core/files/GUID-2DF46705-EE9E-409F-86B5-ED391CE207DC-htm.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this article</a>, both on Autodesks website, suggest altering the <code>FACETRES</code> system variable to <code>10</code> to achieve a higher-quality .stl export.</p> <p>Alternatively, you can use the <code>3DPRINT</code> command for <code>FACETRES</code> to be increased automatically, which will then offer an .stl export or to send the file directly to a 3D printing service.</p>

2019-06-20T03:58:03.767

|3d-models|

<p>I am printing a small cylinder, but when the object is finished, it's smaller than the measures I used when create the model.</p> <p>I used thincerkad to make a simple model, the measures are:</p> <ul> <li>width: 90 mm</li> <li>height: 2 mm</li> </ul> <p>After the print was done, the actual dimensions were:</p> <ul> <li>width: 70 mm</li> <li>height: 2 mm</li> </ul> <h3>Pictures</h3> <p>First attempt</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ESch8.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ESch8.jpg" alt="one"></a></p> <p>The smaller object that's in the drawn circle was the first one printed, the dimensions I used were:</p> <ul> <li>width: 110 mm</li> <li>height: 2 mm</li> </ul> <p>Then I printed it again, and the result was:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TAAPI.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TAAPI.jpg" alt="Two"></a></p>

10317

Why is the printed object smaller than original model?

<p>Let's do the math, you printed something of size 9&nbsp;cm and got a size of 7&nbsp;cm. This implies that the scale equals <span class="math-container">$\frac{7}{9}=0.778$</span>. In order to print it at the correct size, you should have printed the object at scale <span class="math-container">$\frac{1}{0.778}=1.286$</span>; so 28.6&nbsp;% bigger, i.e. <span class="math-container">$1.286\times9=11.6$</span>&nbsp;cm. You printed at 11&nbsp;cm, so the print should become smaller than the pencil drawn circle on the paper. This is actually what you see in the image you supplied.</p> <p>This can imply 2 things, you either scale the prints incorrectly to export to stl (but that is unlikely because the Z height is correct), or the steps per mm are incorrectly set in the firmware of your printer. The rotation of the steppers (usually 200 steps) need to be translated into linear movement; this depends on the used pulleys mounted on the steppers (typically used pulleys are: 16 or 20 teeth for belt driven X and Y axes).</p> <p>Calibrating the steps per mm of the extruder is answered in <a href="/a/6484/">this answer</a>. For the X and Y axis this works the same. If you have a Marlin based printer firmware, send G-code <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M503:_Print_settings" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>M503</code></a> to the printer over a terminal interface as e.g. OctoPrint, Pronterface (as part from Printrun: 3D printing host suite), Repetier-Host have, you can obtain the current values from the reply; these are listed under M92.</p> <p>That value for X and Y needs to be multiplied by 1.286 (as an example) to get the correct dimensions. You do this by sending G-code <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M92:_Set_axis_steps_per_unit" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>M92</code></a> like <code>M92 X100.00 Y100.00</code> (see <a href="/a/10318">this answer</a> that explains which values you should use based on pulleys you use, either 80 or 100) to the printer, to keep these values they need to be stored in memory using G-code <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M500:_Store_parameters_in_non-volatile_storage" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>M500</code></a> (note that the values 100.00 should be replaced by the values you get by multiplying the return values for X and Y from <code>M503</code> by the 1.286 multiplication factor, only if the error is systematically increasing with print dimensions, otherwise stick to the calculated values from e.g. the Prusa belt calculator). </p> <p>Without the proper steps per mm, you will not be able to use the full potential of the bed. An alternative as scaling your prints by the appropriate scaling factor will only help if your scaled print is smaller than the bed size divided by that scaling factor, so no use of the full bed. Rather fix the firmware to fit the actual mechanical layout.</p>

2019-06-20T19:33:42.107

|print-quality|3d-models|3d-design|graphics|

<p>Is there a good rule of thumb for small type on 3d printed pieces?</p> <p>Minimum type size? Good typeface for accurate reproduction?</p>

10323

Rule of thumb for small type

<p>I've had better luck with fonts that are heavier, usually sans-serif, and usually bold-face. All-caps can help, too, if it makes sense at all for the text. <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_(typeface)" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Impact</a> is one widely-available example, though it's far from perfect and rarely has the look I want. I also usually need to turn on the "Print Thin Walls" setting in Cura when handling smaller text.</p> <p>When looking at how small you can get, we'll start with font sizes. It would be easy to get lost here in a discussion of points and measurements. The thing is, font sizes describe the <em>vertical height</em> of the characters. For 3D printing, I believe you'll do better paying more attention to the <em>horizontal width</em> of your text. Most characters are taller than they are wide, so if you can produce legible horizontal features, you can probably handle the vertical features, too. </p> <p>I'll use the letter "H" as an example here, because it shows the full size of the box for a typical character. Specifically, since I'm talking about horizontal features if you look at the bottom of the H, it has a three sections: leg, then gap, then leg. Also notice the gap is about 3 times the size of the legs (you can see this better if you zoom in close). This varies by font, but 3:1 is good average ratio. That gives us 5 units of width for the character itself. Additionally, you want to allow some spacing between individual characters; not every character needs it next to every other character, but I find it useful to allocate a 6th unit here. </p> <p>Now consider those 6 units in the context of your nozzle size. With a typical .4 mm nozzle, that means the smallest size character you can legibly produce is about 2.4 mm across. Of course, most fonts are not monospace, where a character might be larger or smaller, but I believe this makes a useful average. Count the number of letters in a line of text you want to print, multiply by 2.4 mm, and that's the minimum amount of horizontal space you need. </p> <p>If you really want to push things, a font specifically designed for 3D printing should theoretically be able to work in terms of 3 nozzle units wide + an extra gap between certain letters. But this is all theory, and for the minimum of what's possible. When you also start to think about what actually looks good, especially if you want to show features like serifs, the real world can really mess this up. In practice, <em>I've found I need to go significantly larger even than the 6 unit / 2.4 mm option...</em> but maybe I've just used the wrong font. You can always try a test print of your text in a small rectangle, to make sure it will be legible before using in a larger object.</p>

2019-06-21T10:59:30.733

|print-quality|3d-models|

<p>I'm not talking about making something that's outright disproportionate of course. I've been working in Blender and I've use Absolute grid Snap to snap my vertices to the grid. The problem is that it (didn't seem) to always work perfectly for centimeters, and seemed to work better for meters. (edit: I've learned what the problem was and it was simply the placement of the vertices in side view, being at slightly different elevations. I'm going to emphasize that the difference was very slight. It was just enough to show up in the measurements. When I switched from front view to side view I was able to adjust the elevation to the grid and that fixed the problem.)</p>

10331

How precise do models need to be for 3D printing?

<p>After some trouble shooting I realized what was wrong, and now it seems more like a non issue if anything. There's actually nothing wrong with the grid, and the vertices were snapped to it appropriately in top view. The problem was that that my vertices were not at the same elevation (in side view). The two seemed very close to being snapped appropriately on the grid in side view which is why it wasn't immediately obvious. </p>

2019-06-22T14:14:05.373

|marlin|bed-leveling|bltouch|

<p>I just installed my (v3) BLTouch with a vanilla version of Marlin (1.1.9) on my Ender 3 and everything seems to work fine (including auto home) except the probing. It repeatedly does the first three probes (successfully) but then tries the fourth and fails. Even when disabling the axis movement (X/Y stepper motors) the issue persists, which would indicate that it is not a bad connection or physical location dependent. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot?</p> <p>On second thoughts, it seems that it now fails inconsistently, so it is probably a wiring issue, although there is still the issue of it not retracting before printing and not leveling well when it does (although those issues would be more appropriate for a separate question), among other things.</p> <p>&lt;Edit: Resolved, I both replaced the BLTouch and updated my firmware, but I believe it was the latter that fixed it.&gt;</p>

10345

BLTouch Probing Fails Intermittently

<p>Reviving old thread...</p> <p>I have same problem on Ender-3 V2 and two BLTouch sensors. So far, Oscar's idea of screwing in the T10 Torx screw on the BLTouch seems to be working. When the torx screw is screwed in you can see the tip of the probe being pushed out a bit. Evidently, there is a magnet in the BLTouch and there is some metal part on the probe that is attracted to the magnet. When the probe gets close enough to the magnet it snaps to the upper (stowed) position. The Torx screw adjusts the position of the magnet. By screwing the Torx in the magnet is closer to the probe and the probe snaps to the magnet sooner.</p> <p>The BLTouch firmware can detect when the probe has been been snapped up by the magnet. Apparently, the firmware will only probe downward a limited amount. If the probe is not snapped to the magnet by the end of that travel the firmware will abort the probe. My guess is that from the factory the BLTouch is adjusted at the ragged edge of the firmware's detection travel. By screwing it in a bit it the probe stays within the firmware's travel limit.</p> <p>Since I haven't disassembled either of my BLTouchs this is mostly speculative. Caveat emptor.</p> <p>BTW, my printer is connected to Octoprint on Android tablet. Disconnecting the Octoprint and USB cable didn't help.</p>

2019-06-22T17:32:17.743

|print-quality|creality-ender-3|microstepping|

<p>Note: The "TL smoothers" referred to in the question title are an arrangement of 8 diodes that presumably both provide a voltage drop to address the minimum current output issue of some stepper drivers described in <a href="https://hackaday.com/2016/08/29/how-accurate-is-microstepping-really/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">How Accurate Is Microstepping Really</a>, and provide flyback protection and protection of the driver from currents induced by moving the motor in the unpowered state.</p> <p>Now, on to the question:</p> <p>I put together a simple test part to test Y (or X) axis microstepping accuracy:</p> <p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/siHlD.png" alt="Test part design - OpenSCAD screenshot"></p> <p>Every 1mm in the Z direction, the face steps inward 1/80 mm (corresponding to my printer's [micro]steps per mm setting) in the Y direction and 1 mm in the X direction (to clearly show where the steps happen).</p> <p>Here are the results (two runs, near-identical output):</p> <p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HyDve.jpg" alt="Photo of test prints lying down"> <img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5hJWJ.jpg" alt="Photo of test prints upright"></p> <p>Several of the steps are missing entirely, and it's the middle vertical surface, rather than the side two stepped-vertical surfaces, that shows a step-like texture.</p> <p>Note that layers have been printed counter-clockwise, but the design with steps on both sides is to try to reduce the impact of print orientation so as not to depend on what the slicer decides to do. Print speed was 30 mm/s for outer walls, with outer walls set to be printed first so they're not affected by already-printed inner ones.</p> <p>This looks to me like an indication that microstepping is not working accurately, and seems to agree partly with this article: <a href="https://hackaday.com/2016/08/29/how-accurate-is-microstepping-really/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://hackaday.com/2016/08/29/how-accurate-is-microstepping-really/</a></p> <p>Would TL smoothers improve this? My printer is an Ender 3, seemingly the latest revision at the time it was sold (December 2018) based on the bed and other aspects. Some threads I found suggested that this was a problem with older Ender 3s that was fixed in later revisions and that TL smoothers won't help, but it looks to me like it's not fixed.</p> <p>Update: With settings adjusted for 0 jerk and 50 mm/s² acceleration in the outer walls, I got a somewhat improved result:</p> <p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CtoxR.jpg" alt="New test print (lower) compared to old (upper)"></p> <p>All steps are clearly visible, but at the reduced and more varying speed, artifacts of the extruder motor accuracy (or maybe just bowden latency) are much worse, and at the steps the "overshoot and bounce back" effect is still happening. Is this consistent with a situation where the TL smoothers I asked about could benefit?</p> <p>Update 2: I've further tested with leaving acceleration at default (500 mm/s²) and just disabling "jerk", i.e. "instantaneous" change in speed. The results are at least as good as the above with slow acceleration. What strikes me most is that the "overshoot then bounce back" happens outward from the model on <em>both</em> edges, rather than inward on the righthand side where the (CCW moving) nozzle is turning inward. Could this indicate that there's no microstepping accuracy problem at all, and that the artifact is purely from excess extrusion as the corner is turned?</p> <p>Updated pic (new one below):</p> <p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jeGq0.jpg" alt="Old test piece above, new with default accel and 0 jerk below"></p>

10346

Does this microstepping test result indicate need for TL smoothers?

<p>The missing/inaccurate microsteps seem to be a bug/feature of Marlin:</p> <blockquote> <pre><code>// Moves (or segments) with fewer steps than this will be joined with the next move #define MIN_STEPS_PER_SEGMENT 6 </code></pre> </blockquote> <p>I'm not sure what the logic for this was in the stock firmware, which I originally performed the tests with, but with Marlin 2.0 I was completely missing the first 5 steps on the right (positive X) side. Changing the value to 1 mostly fixed the problem, but there was also a corresponding bug/feature in Cura:</p> <blockquote> <pre><code> "meshfix_maximum_deviation": { "label": "Maximum Deviation", "description": "The maximum deviation allowed when reducing the resolution for the Maximum Resolution setting. If you increase this, the print will be less accurate, but the g-code will be smaller. Maximum Deviation is a limit for Maximum Resolution, so if the two conflict the Maximum Deviation will always be held true.", "type": "float", "unit": "mm", "default_value": 0.05, "minimum_value": "0.001", "minimum_value_warning": "0.01", "maximum_value_warning": "0.3", "settable_per_mesh": true } </code></pre> </blockquote> <p>The deviation should be set less than a single microstep, so 0.0125 mm.</p> <p>With both of these fixed, I've got a perfect print:</p> <p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/EWggG.jpg" alt="successful print with each microstep visible"></p> <p>Sliced printing direction was counter-clockwise for all layers. The steps on the left side are where the slicer decided to put the layer seams (perhaps I should retry forcing it to put the seam somewhere else, or even using vase mode) so they have a little extra bulging from slight ooze during the Z move that you can clearly see from the lighting, but the steps on the right side are dimensionally near perfect.</p> <p>I think I can safely say any past problems were the fault of firmware and slicing software, not anything physical/electrical/electronic.</p>

2019-06-22T19:50:22.753

|print-quality|prusa-i3|3d-models|petg|

<p>I am using a new Prusa i3 MK3S 3D printer kit. I print lots of things using PLA and PETG. </p> <p>After a week of great performance I noticed that when printing some objects with PETG filament I often encountered a problem when there's <strong>intense stringing, infill gaps, artifacts, the object sometimes detaches from the plate.</strong> I use the Prusa Slicer and Cura and print with the temperature 230/90&nbsp;°C, speed max. 300&nbsp;%.This problem occurs rather regardless of which infill methods I choose. I see this problem more often when printing models sliced with Cura. Sometimes everything goes fine, but most of the time I need to stop the print due to the model collapsing, detaching from the surface, its parts collapsing due to infill gaps. The printer sometimes makes some 'clicking, cracking' sounds when printing with PETG. <em>My filaments come from Fiberology</em>.</p> <p>Surprisingly, I have run the selftest, XYZ, Z calibrations and all the other ones without any errors. The wizard told me that the axes are perpendicular and it gave me congratulations. All the other tests went nearly perfect as well. </p> <p>I do not encounter any problems using PLA, just with PETG. I try to maintain the filament properly (keep it away from moisture, in a closed box). Sometimes (rarely) <strong>I get crashes. The filament often builds up on the hotend and I remove it.</strong></p> <p>I do not know what to do, the build went very well and there are no errors, even though I am a new user and this is my very first 3D printer. I have searched the web and I haven't found people reporting this exact same thing.</p> <p>Could You help me? What can I do to improve the quality of the prints, perhaps maintain PETG better <strong>(maybe I'm doing something wrong) and most importantly, solve the problem</strong>? </p>

10347

Prusa i3 MK3S 3D printer PETG printing problems

<p>You might try printing with Prusa's recommended settings. They tend to be hotter and slower than I expected.</p> <p>I have made several pet-G prints with the same machine you have. </p>

2019-06-22T22:06:22.017

|3d-models|3d-design|fdm|

<p>I've always been wondering about the actual accuracy of 3D printing devices. When looking for the perfect machine to buy, I looked at the speed, price, filaments supported etc, but also accuracy. I once asked somebody who could give me some advice on what to look at. </p> <p>One of the things I was told about was that many printers don't necessarily have that crazy precision of 0.05&nbsp;mm (50 micron). Another person told me something different - he said most of those printers actually were capable of putting out 50 micron layer height. How is it really? </p> <p>Another thing is that the official slicers for those machines also claim that this precision is real, for instance the PrusaSlicer v2.0. </p> <p>There are many high-end, very expensive machines and even they sometimes claim their resolution is worse than 50 microns.</p>

10349

Do 3D printers really reach 50 micron (0.05 mm) accuracy?

<p>A <strong>resolution</strong> (sometimes called "accuracy" for marketing purposes) of 0.05 mm means that if you produce a bunch of 10 mm dice and a bunch of 10.05 mm dice, then the 10.05 mm ones will be statistically larger. Note that dice don't have to actually be anywhere near 10 mm, nor does a random die from the 10.05 mm pile have to be larger than a random die from the 10 mm pile.</p> <p>A <strong>repeatability</strong> (aka "repeat accuracy") of 0.05 mm means that in the experiment above every die from the 10.05 mm pile have to be larger than every die from the 10 mm pile. Note that your dice still don't have to be anywhere near actual 10 mm.</p> <p>A <strong>precision</strong> (aka trueness) of 0.05 mm means that in the experiment above the average size of a 10 mm die should be within 9.975..10.025 mm. Note that individual dice don't have to be within that interval.</p> <p>Finally, the <strong>general accuracy</strong> (as defined in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Accuracy_and_precision#ISO_definition_(ISO_5725)" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ISO 5725</a>) of 0.05 mm means that every 10 mm die should be within 9.975..10.025 mm.</p> <p>To sum it up, the statement from your question is true for the "commercial accuracy", but not for the general definition of accuracy. For example <a href="https://theorthocosmos.com/dimensional-accuracy-3d-printers/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a> is an article comparing accuracy of 3D printers in dental applications (so we're talking high-end machines), with <em>average</em> accuracy ranging from 0,05 to 0,1 mm and <em>absolute</em> accuracy in range of 0,11 to 0,17 mm. </p>

2019-06-24T04:56:35.640

|hotend|fdm|

<p>To minimize retractions and travel when printing several objects, some slicers produce gcode for sequential deposition when each object is built in a traditional manner bottom up layer by layer before starting a new object. Of course, there are limitations caused by the hotend geometry <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZW17O.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZW17O.png" alt="from simplify 3d website"></a> :</p> <p>So bulky hotends don't allow for this trick to be used wen sequential pieces are closer than several centimeters. If there where hotends with minimal end effector geometry (needle like, much like drill bit on CNC) we might even do things like spiralizing contours of a single object. This has also potential for other tricks like producing interlacing layers for better layer bonding etc. I wasn't able to find any ongoing work on minimal geometry hotends. Any links? And what might be the challenges in making one? heatblocks and heating cartridges are out of the question but nichrome wire and a fast PID heat controller might do the job.</p>

10360

Needle Hotend for nonplanar printing

<p>Yes, using a needle to extrude will result in a smaller diameter extrusion. All that is needed is to find a one with a suitable bore size. The problem however is in generating enough hydraulic pressure, needed to extrude hot plastic through a nozzle of that size. If you can form an extruder that can, then go for it. The second problem is that the thin wall of such a nozzle won't have the same "ironing" effect that current nozzles have. From the picture referenced below you can see the nozzle hole and then a ring of metal around it. That ring flattens the filament out into the desired layer which helps with layer adhesion. With out it, the filament might not even stick to the previous layer, or the bed.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HP4n0.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HP4n0.jpg" alt="E3D V6, 0.4 mm DIAMONDIZED™ 3D Printer Nozzle from 3dpc.tech"></a></p>

2019-06-24T18:58:46.250

|firmware|

<p>In 3D printing firmware and slicers, jerk settings are expressed in units if mm/s. This is contrary the physical definition of jerk, which is in units of mm/s³, being the second derivative of speed with respect to time (or the third derivative of position). What is the reason for this discrepancy and how does one interpret jerk in this contect?</p>

10369

Why does jerk have units of mm/s rather than mm/s³?

<p>In step based motion control, the time between two steps is calculated directly from velocity. If that time is not constant then you are accelerating or decelerating based on a specified acceleration. The next time between steps is calculated from the current velocity based on the desired acceleration. However when moving 2 or 3 axes at once, this can result in very poor and slow performance when moving through complex curves composed of many small moves, because by the math one axis always needs to slow down too much if no jerk is involved. When doing motion calculations for step based systems, actual jerk m/s³ directly translates into how much velocity 'error' is acceptable in calculation of the next velocity (m/s) to allow turning lo angle corners more quickly, but without missing steps or stalling motors. This velocity error comes directly from the actual jerk between two steps and it does have physical meaning, (and the proper units). Also, low power microprocessors can do the math fast enough, which is not the case if square and cube roots get involved.</p>

2019-06-24T19:23:53.813

|firmware|makerbot|usb|mightyboard|x3g|

<p>I've recently purchased a Makerbot Replicator Dual clone made by CTC. I'm in the process of upgrading/adding a few parts to it, but noticed that I can't control or print via USB.</p> <p>The machine prints perfectly from an SD card and I can see information in the terminal from the printer via USB in RepG and through OctoPrint - Such as M105 - but can't send any .x3g files to print or upgrade firmware (I wanted to flash Sailfish 7.7 eventually).</p> <p>To clarify;</p> <p><strong>In Octoprint</strong></p> <ul> <li>Temperature auto-reporting is working</li> <li>Can send M105, M27, etc.. &amp; get response</li> <li>Can select .x3g files from the SD card to print &amp; the printer starts</li> <li>Can upload files (.stl, .x3G, .gco etc..) to Octopi, but even the .x3g files wont actually start on the printer.</li> <li>Tried sending <code>M140 T0 S200</code> &amp; <code>M106 T0 S100</code> which received OK response, but there was no change reported, or indeed actually happening with the tool</li> </ul> <p><em>Terminal Output from OctoPrint at connection:</em></p> <pre><code>Changing monitoring state from &quot;Offline&quot; to &quot;Opening serial port&quot; Connected to: &lt;octoprint_GPX.gpxprinter.GpxPrinter instance at 0x6c9a02d8&gt;, starting monitor Starting baud rate detection... Changing monitoring state from &quot;Opening serial port&quot; to &quot;Detecting baudrate&quot; Trying baudrate: 115200 Recv: start Send: N0 M110 N0*125 Changing monitoring state from &quot;Detecting baudrate&quot; to &quot;Operational&quot; Recv: Makerbot v7.4 Send: N0 M110 N0*125 Recv: echo: gcode to x3g translation by GPX Recv: SD card ok Recv: T:27 /0 B:21 /0 T0:27 /0 T1:26 /0 @:0 B@:0 Recv: T:27 /0 B:20 /0 T0:27 /0 T1:26 /0 @:0 B@:0 Recv: T:27 /0 B:21 /0 T0:27 /0 T1:26 /0 @:0 B@:0 Recv: ok Send: N1 M115*39 Recv: ok PROTOCOL_VERSION:0.1 FIRMWARE_NAME:Makerbot FIRMWARE_VERSION:7.4 FIRMWARE_URL:https://support.makerbot.com/learn/earlier-products/replicator-original/updating-firmware-for-the-makerbot-replicator-via-replicatorg_13302 MACHINE_TYPE:r1d EXTRUDER_COUNT:2 Send: M21 Recv: ok Recv: SD card ok Send: M20 Recv: ok Recv: Begin file list Recv: 2GB Recv: System Volume Information Recv: mesh_bed.stl Recv: xyzCalibration_cube.x3g Recv: CTCB_3DBenchy.x3g Recv: 3DBenchy.x3g Recv: ActiveCoolingDuct.x3g Recv: CTCB_ActiveDuctD4_UN.x3g Recv: UK_TROLLEY_TOKEN.x3g Recv: mesh_bed.x3g Recv: z-axis-support.x3g Recv: bed-screws.x3g Recv: spool_nut.x3g Recv: 2016_spool.x3g Recv: 2016_spool_no_raft.x3g Recv: ActiveDuctD4_UN.x3g Recv: Z_Axis_Support_Ends.x3g Recv: End file list Send: M105 Recv: ok T:27 /0 B:20 /0 T0:27 /0 T1:26 /0 @:0 B@:0 Send: M105 </code></pre> <p><strong>In ReplicatorG</strong></p> <ul> <li>The software connects to the board via USB and recognises that it is a Mightyboard running f/w 7.4</li> <li>Reports that it is an unvarified board</li> <li>Cannot use the GUI control tab to send commands to the printer</li> <li>Cannot send sliced .x3g files over USB, console shows a time out error instantly</li> <li>Saving .x3g to SD card does work</li> </ul> <p>Is my Mightyboard just a dud, or is there something I can do to try and fix it?</p> <p>The reason I want to try and solve this now, is that I'm planning on adding active cooling and LED lighting control so don't really want to do all that just to find out that I need to replace the board soon.</p> <hr /> <h3>Additional info</h3> <p>Some information meaning that the current firmware and board is reported, as well as current temperatures of the extruders and heat bed. I can print .x3g files from the SD card, but I can't send G-code commands or .x3g files through USB.</p> <p>I have just tried a few G-code commands through OctoPrint terminal with mixed results. <code>M105</code> works, <code>M140</code> &amp; <code>M106</code> don't.</p>

10371

Can't control printer via USB

<p>You can find gcode information at the <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RepRap wiki</a>. The obvious other thing to try is <code>G1 X10</code> for a move.</p> <p>Octoprint prints by sending the individual file's gcode one line at a time over USB. It appears that the firmware on your printer might not respond to any 'action' commands over gcode, rather than any fault as such with your hardware/software setup.</p> <p>Although your board reports a specific firmware version, it is impossible to know if that firmware was corrupted, or patched by the vendor (and no change reflected in the revision print). Thus, your best option to regain full control might be to flash your own firmware using low-level access. I'm guessing that will require an <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/In-system_programming" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ICSP</a> lead.</p> <p>The fact that USB works, and the printer works, tends to suggest that the board is properly functional.</p>

2019-06-25T07:49:58.890

|prusa-i3|3d-models|abs|enclosure|

<p>ABS is a very strong material, but it also has some downsides. One of them, which is the necessity of having a printer with enclosure, completely discouraged me from using it, as it would be a waste of money. This is quite sad, because I cannot make prints that will be able to withstand a large load of tension without breaking. </p> <p>Is there any way to print ABS without any enclosure? Maybe there are several types of this material and some are easier to print?</p>

10375

Is there a way to print with ABS without enclosure?

<p>I print ABS in my basement in an unenclosed Prusa3D i3m3s, just as I print other filaments. Perhaps an enclosure would be helpful, but I don't have problems as it is. Your experience may vary.</p> <p>Before that I printed ABS on a large home-brew delta machine. No problems related to lack of enclosure.</p> <p>Before that I printed ABS on a Thing-o-Matic, also with no problems.</p> <p>I'm not saying that every print was perfect, but in the first two (chronologically) cases, the enclosure was not the largest contributor to print artifacts.</p>

2019-06-25T18:53:03.010

|anet-a8|

<p>My anet A8 stepper drivers get very hot after some time printing, so I decided to install a 5V fan to cool them down. I had the idea to get a 12V to 5V regulator to connect a 5V fan, but then i found this image:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ryeyj.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ryeyj.jpg" alt="anet a8 mainboard"></a></p> <p>(source: <a href="http://lokspace.eu/anet-a8-wifi-mod/" rel="noreferrer">lokspace.eu</a>)</p> <p>It looks like the Anet A8 has an ICSP and Serial header that can deliver 5 or 3.3 V directly from the board. Is this correct? If it is, how many amps can i get from this pin? Can I connect a 5V fan directly here?</p> <p>Thanks and sorry for my bad English.</p>

10384

Getting 5V directly from the Anet A8 mainboard

<p>You would be better to use a 12V fan. </p> <p>The 5V is for powering logic. It should not have motor loads, even fan motor loads, applied to it. You will not be saving power over using a 12V fan. According to @Tom 's answer, the 5V is derived through a linear regulator. </p> <p>A linear regulator has the property that the current drawn from the regulator at 5V will equal the current drawn by the regulator at 12V. <span class="math-container">$7/12$</span>'ths of the power will be lost in the regulator chip as heat, which may cause the chip to overheat if there is not enough cooling margin in the thermal design.</p> <p>If you use a 12V fan the current consumption of the fan for the same cooling capacity will be lower, and you won't waste more energy dropping the voltage.</p> <p>May I ask how hot the steppers are? Too hot to comfortably hold for more than a few seconds may still be completely acceptable for motors. So hot that the plastic holding them melts is too hot for the mounting, but may still be ok for the motor. So hot that they cause burns with 5 second contact is probably too hot.</p> <p>If the motors are too hot, it might be better to check the current the motor drivers are programmed to deliver (either through software configuration or a potentiometer -- I don't know the printer). Getting the current right is a better fix that managing the excess heat. It may also improve the linearity of microstepping and improve print quality.</p>

2019-06-26T11:47:10.083

|ultimaker-cura|creality-ender-3|calibration|nozzle|

<p>I've done calibration test with "Concentric circle test" (<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11895" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11895</a>) and at specific points there are little bumped points on the print. Also Thingiverse page of the test mentions about these.</p> <p>How can I solve this problem?</p> <p>My printer is Creality Ender 3 Pro, I use Esun PLA+ with 210 celcius extruder and 60 celcius bed temperature.</p> <p>Here is the printed object, both are same print, just took photo on different base.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/53vd2.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/53vd2.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/eqnA7.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/eqnA7.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

10390

How to solve spillage problem?

<p>I've not sliced the part in question, but the over extrusion mentioned in the third point (at change of direction/layers) is referring to ooze. </p> <p>This is a result of the hydraulic pressure in the melt zone, and results in over extrusion at any point when the print head is moving slowly (and a corresponding under-extrusion once motion resumes). It can be compensated for by <strong>retraction</strong> and <strong>coasting</strong> settings.</p> <p>This effect will probably not be visible in the print you have here, there are other effects which are causing more significant defects.</p>

2019-06-27T23:05:15.583

|replacement-parts|part-identification|

<p>How should I describe this part which looks like a small gear so that I can research replacements?</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/51BdD.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/51BdD.jpg" alt="image of a pulley"></a></p> <p>This came with my FLSUN 3D printer, which may be based on a Prusa design.</p>

10410

What part is this? Circular threading spool gear, about 10 mm diameter

<p>This is a timing belt pulley.</p> <p>Specifically, is a GT2 timing pulley, 2&nbsp;mm pitch (between teeth), 6&nbsp;mm wide. The drive diameter is measured by the number of teeth (16 in this case) , the shaft diameter (bore) is measured in mm.</p> <p>The 'GT2' part refers to the tooth profile, some other examples are shown half way down <a href="https://www.pfeiferindustries.com/timing-belt-identification-and-replacement" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this page</a>.</p>

2019-06-28T17:00:23.707

|z-axis|endstop|tevo-tarantula|

<p>I burnt the Z- port for the Z endstop. Can I use the Z+ port? I'm using Jim Brown's Marlin firmware. </p> <p>Any help to change that is highly appreciated. I know nothing about code. Sorry for my ignorance. I'm new on this 3D printing universe.</p>

10420

Tevo tarantula Z- port burnt

<p>Assuming <a href="https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula/blob/EasyConfig-2.0.x/config/default/Configuration.h#line585" rel="nofollow noreferrer">line 585</a> of <a href="https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula/blob/EasyConfig-2.0.x/config/default/Configuration.h" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Configuration.h</a> looks like this</p> <pre><code>// Almost all printers will be using one per axis. Probes will use one or more of the // extra connectors. Leave undefined any used for non-endstop and non-probe purposes. #define USE_XMIN_PLUG #define USE_YMIN_PLUG #define USE_ZMIN_PLUG //#define USE_XMAX_PLUG //#define USE_YMAX_PLUG //#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG </code></pre> <p>That is to say, if the Maximum endstop ports/plugs aren't currently being used, then you could just redefine the pin used by <code>ZMIN</code> (Z-) to be that currently being used by the <code>ZMAX</code> (Z+), in the appropriate <code>pins_XXXX.h</code> file (contained within <a href="https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula/tree/EasyConfig-2.0.x/Marlin/src/pins" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MarlinTarantula/Marlin/src/pins/</a>), where <code>XXXX</code> depends upon which board you have (I don't know what board your printer has).</p> <p>For example, if you have a RAMPS board then in <a href="https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula/blob/EasyConfig-2.0.x/Marlin/src/pins/pins_RAMPS.h" rel="nofollow noreferrer">pins_RAMPS.h</a> at <a href="https://github.com/JimBrown/MarlinTarantula/blob/EasyConfig-2.0.x/Marlin/src/pins/pins_RAMPS.h#line79" rel="nofollow noreferrer">line 79</a> you would change</p> <pre><code>// // Limit Switches // #define X_MIN_PIN 3 #ifndef X_MAX_PIN #define X_MAX_PIN 2 #endif #define Y_MIN_PIN 14 #define Y_MAX_PIN 15 #define Z_MIN_PIN 18 #define Z_MAX_PIN 19 </code></pre> <p>to become (note the change in the last two lines)</p> <pre><code>// // Limit Switches // #define X_MIN_PIN 3 #ifndef X_MAX_PIN #define X_MAX_PIN 2 #endif #define Y_MIN_PIN 14 #define Y_MAX_PIN 15 #define Z_MIN_PIN 19 #define Z_MAX_PIN 18 </code></pre> <p>Then compile and reflash the firmware.</p> <p>Obviously you would then plug the Z_MIN (Z-) wire from the endstop into the Z_MAX (Z+) port.</p>

2019-06-29T19:30:49.533

|ultimaker-cura|pla|stability|

<p>I have issues with this overhang:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7dMhQ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Damaged overhang"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/7dMhQ.jpg" alt="Damaged overhang" title="Damaged overhang"></a></p> <p>The whole part always breaks in this overhang during the print.</p> <p>I tried to increase the count of wall lines and decrease printing speed, but none of those things help. Do you have any idea how to fix it? Is possible to create support inside a model to print this overhang?</p> <p>(I´m using Cura 4.1.0.)</p> <p>I´m using 3 wall´s lines and 15% gyroid infill. My bed has 70&nbsp;°C and nozzle 205&nbsp;°C. I am using PLA Prusament galaxy black. The part is oriented the right way. By overhang I mean damaged part above holes.</p>

10426

Damaged overhang

<p>When you get upwards facing things failing it can be because the slicer has too few top layers which makes angled faces have gaps. While you may think it is a wall the slicer sees it as top layer. Try increasing the number of top layers and check in the preview how it appears.</p> <p>Infill will normally support those faces so no separate support is needed. Just make sure you have enough top layers that no gaps form, 3-5 layers should be alright.</p>

2019-06-29T20:29:18.267

|filament|pla+|

<p>I've seen conflicting advice on the correct printing temperature for Microcenter's house-brand Inland PLA+, particularly after a supplier change announced in April 2018.</p> <p>There's an <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/89grfm/psa_on_our_micro_center_inland_filament/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">official post from Microcenter</a>, where they state that their PLA+ from both the suppliers they use prints best from 215-225&nbsp;&deg;C. (The label on the spool specifies 205-225&nbsp;&deg;C).</p> <p>However, I've run a series of Benchy prints with recently-purchased white inland PLA+ at different temperatures (with a Lulzbot SL toolhead and 0.1&nbsp;mm layer depth, slicing by Cura LE 3.6.10 after repairing the STL with <a href="https://tools3d.azurewebsites.net" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Microsoft's repair tool</a>, movement 30&nbsp;mm/sec), and my experience is very different:</p> <ul> <li>220&nbsp;&deg;C has very severe stringing and blobbing, including blobbing on top surfaces. The text on the base is not visible at all.</li> <li>215&nbsp;&deg;C has substantial stringing and blobbing, particularly on inside surfaces, but not on the roof of the boat (except the prow). The text on the base is partially visible.</li> <li>210&nbsp;&deg;C looks very good; there are some tiny blobs on the nameplate and the inside door, and no stringing. This was the first one that didn't require a razor blade to remove from the PEI surface. The text on the base is very clear.</li> <li>205&nbsp;&deg;C looks great.</li> </ul> <p>Is something wrong with my equipment, such that it's printing with a higher temperature than it reads? Is Microcenter's advice off? Could I have a batch that behaves differently than is expected for the same filament in general?</p> <p>More to the point -- what advice do others have to get good results with Inland PLA+?</p>

10427

Inland PLA+ stringing badly at manufacturer-recommended temperature ranges

<p>Even as PLA+ contains some additives, each printer is different. We usually never know what the actual temperature of the printhead is, but if your printer prints good at 205 °C, despite the manufacturer claiming you should use a little more temperature, use it. It might be the perfect combination of temperature and speed for <strong>your</strong> printer. Your printer is not the benchmark machine the manufacturer of the filament used, and we have no idea what speeds they used if they had an enclosure and what style of hotend they used.</p>

2019-06-30T10:04:45.887

|troubleshooting|print-failure|rafts|monoprice-select-mini|

<p>I just set up a refurbished <a href="https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=29417" rel="nofollow noreferrer">MP Select Mini V2</a> and tried to print the test file included by the manufacturer, <code>cat.gcode</code>, from the included SD card. I printed in PLA (I think; the unlabeled sample included with the printer) at the default extruder temperature, 190&nbsp;°C. The print bed was set to 50&nbsp;°C.</p> <p>It appeared to print the raft fine, and then a couple of layers of the cat. At this point I walked away, and when I came back a few minutes later here's what I found:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UuaCr.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UuaCr.jpg" alt="Printer with awful mess"></a></p> <p>The raft is still stuck to the bed, but the layers of cat that were printed fell off the base and onto the floor. Here's what I picked up off the floor, (next to the detached raft):</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/omh6M.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/omh6M.jpg" alt="Raft and mangled print"></a></p> <p>The raft was stuck on the bed just fine, so I don't think it's an adhesion issue. The bed and the desk the printer is sitting on are both very close to level (things don't slide or roll off). There's no breeze and I'm certain nothing bumped or touched the printer while it was running.</p> <p>This is my first attempt at a print so I obviously have no idea what I'm doing. I'm planning to set up a camera to record the next attempt. What other troubleshooting can I do? What is the likely cause of this problem?</p>

10432

Why did my print fall off its raft?

<p>It looks to me as the model did not have enough surface contact with the raft.</p> <hr> <p>This can be caused by to big of a gap between raft and model set in the slicer or because of Underextrusion. The part itself does not look underextruded, at least not a lot, so I would say that the slicer settings were not ideal.</p> <p>I would suggest you slice a part by yourself and test the printer again.</p> <p>From personal experience a skirt or brim works better with PLA and uncomplicated models.</p> <p>For general bugfixing, explanation of slicer settings and anomalies the Simplfy3D hompage is a great resource.</p> <p>Here is an article about <a href="https://www.simplify3d.com/support/articles/rafts-skirts-and-brims/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Rafts, Skirts and Brims</a> and <a href="https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here the general guide page for print quality.</a></p> <hr> <p>Your printing temperature is a bit low but shouldn't be the cause for the problem. Maybe check the specs on the PLA you used. Your bet temperature seems to be fine as the raft did adhere well.</p> <hr>

2019-06-30T18:54:04.080

|extruder|endstop|axis|

<p>I'm working on something that I'll share once it's done (then hope it's not a disaster and actually useful to someone).</p> <p>It requires a stepper to rotate a part by a certain amount of degrees, which I plan to achieve by using E1 and simply issuing an appropriate <code>G0</code> command.</p> <p>The issue I'm having is that I would need Marlin, upon start to check if the part is actually rotated to the 0 deg position.</p> <p>I suspect that there is no way to i.e. use an unused Z max pin and issue something like the well known <code>G28</code> or like Duet3D does with <code>G0/1 S</code> parameter. Is there maybe a hack I can apply with a filament run out sensor as that axis endstop?</p>

10438

Home E / extrude until endstop is triggered

<p>You should be able to adapt the "Dual X Carriage" feature for your project.</p> <p>That allows a second print head (on the X axis) to move independently of the "main" X axis motor - and it can also be homed against its own endstop.</p> <p>You can enable this feature in the <code>configuration_adv.h</code> file under "Dual X Carriage".</p> <p>By default, all "Dual X/Y/Z axis" features use the first free extruder stepper driver - which would be E1 in your case.</p> <p>You would have to adjust the <code>X2</code> parameters to allow you to zero the motor on the endstop (<code>X2_MIN_POS 0</code>, <code>X2_HOME_DIR -1</code>, <code>X2_HOME_POS X2_MIN_POS</code>), as well as setting the default mode to "<code>FULL CONTROL</code>" (<code>DEFAULT_DUAL_X_CARRIAGE_MODE DXC_FULL_CONTROL_MODE</code>).</p> <p>As far as I understand, you can then use <code>T0</code> and <code>T1</code> to change between both "X axes", with <code>T0</code> selecting your real X axis, and <code>T1</code> your custom stepper motor.</p>

2019-06-30T18:54:10.533

|print-quality|

<p>I'm printing part for a chess board from a set on Thingiverse, expanded a little to 50&nbsp;mm square. After the 3^rd layer, I'm seeing what looks like raised ripples, and you can feel them with a finger too. I didn't see this when printing just 4 pieces earlier. PLA at ~200&nbsp;&deg;C, bed is PEX/flex steel/magnet/AL.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TK9ZG.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TK9ZG.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>The initial layer also had some streakiness (?) after the 1^st layer.</p> <p>Odd, as the bed tests out as pretty level using the paper under the nozzle test.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYaQp.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYaQp.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <hr> <p>Looking much better now that the infill is starting. Will have to look into calibrating the extruder when this print finishes. Printed a 6 hour iPhone stand yesterday, turned out really nice.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/abdqo.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/abdqo.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <hr> <p>Top layer is nearing done (looks like top layer is finishing, then the lip to go for the edge of the board) and all signs of the rippling are gone. Will check the 'level' again before we start on the light color squares.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Obcff.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Obcff.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>

10439

Ripple in layers

<p>Printing some more parts tonight. Looks like solution is better bed "leveling" (tramming, or basically squareness between X, Y, and Z axis). Getting it dialed in to the correct height, 1/4 turn of a bed leveling screw at a time.</p> <p>Also ordered some metal (stainless steel) shims so we can get and check the bed level more accurately than "this index card plus a little bit" as the card measures ~0.16mm and we want 0.18mm to 0.2mm or maybe 0.22mm it seems.</p>

2019-07-02T02:34:32.817

|print-quality|troubleshooting|monoprice-select-mini|

<p>The printer is <a href="https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=21711" rel="nofollow noreferrer">"Monoprice MP Select Mini 3D Printer V2"</a>.</p> <p>This is how my printed fan part looks like:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BG8lC.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BG8lC.jpg" alt="Printed fan part"></a></p> <p>These printers are notorious for their Z lead screw assembly (M4 bolt &amp; nut) so I installed flex coupler and aligned the M4 bolt and motor shaft so that the wobble is minimal. It is still there, but I don't think this amount of wobble would produce something like what I experience. Please check out the <a href="https://photos.app.goo.gl/XTdaZMjGvCgwsZ9W7" rel="nofollow noreferrer">timelapse video</a> at the end.</p> <p>I also tightened up Z guide rails (no rattle, very little slop)</p> <p>Moreover the banding appears to be less pronounced and have alot greater period for vase prints <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dJBLe.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dJBLe.jpg" alt="Vase print; extruded ellipse printed along Y axis"></a></p> <p>(this is extruded ellipse printed along Y axis). I tried:</p> <ol> <li><p>slowing down print by 50&nbsp;% - no effect on banding. </p></li> <li><p>monitored hotend temperature with external probe on the heater block (-+5&nbsp;&deg;C)</p></li> </ol> <p>The banding appears to be almost exclusively in Y axis direction; for example, the same ellipse printed along X axis: <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ko1pr.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ko1pr.jpg" alt="Vase print; extruded ellipse printed along X axis"></a></p> <p>Now, same ellipse in layered mode (seam side) printed along Y axis <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xaXJd.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xaXJd.jpg" alt="Layered print; extruded ellipse printed along Y axis"></a></p>

10460

Help diagnose Z-banding

<p>This differs from the traditional banding as observed from Z wobble induced banding as e.g. explained in <a href="/a/5824">this answer</a>.</p> <p>Your banding patterns clearly seem to form diagonal bands, this is most probably a combination of the lead and the full rotation of the stepper. The most logical explanation is that the layer shifts as a whole in X-Y direction (when seen against the print height, this movement is concentric seen from the top). This means that the next layer is positioned over the previous layer in a concentric pattern. This hints to some sort of defect in your X/Y-plane assembly and should be investigated further. </p> <p>This is difficult to visualize, but this sketch shows the issue for some layers:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5CzDk.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Diagonal Z banding by concentric consecutive offsets"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5CzDk.png" alt="Diagonal Z banding by concentric consecutive offsets" title="Diagonal Z banding by concentric consecutive offsets"></a></p> <p>This could be related to the belts of the X and Y-axis, play on the drive pulleys, non-straight lead screw, guide rods with play, play in general, <a href="https://hackaday.io/project/14823-monoprice-select-mini-maximum-3d-printer-mods/log/51880-dont-go-wobbly-on-me-now" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Z-stepper alignment to the threaded rod</a>, etc. Considering the amount of <a href="https://www.mpselectmini.com/thingiverse/z-axis-stabilizers" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Z-wobble fixes</a> shared by the unofficial MP Select Wiki, the best place to look for is the Z-stepper to lead screw coupling.</p>

2019-07-03T14:24:33.327

|printer-building|desktop-printer|

<p>There are several cantilever-style printers around like <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printer-Cantilever-20-C3Dtc/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">some DIYs</a> (2018), the <a href="http://www.tronxy.com/x-series/tronxy-x1.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">TronXY-X1</a>, the <a href="https://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=15365" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Monoprice Select Mini</a>, Tiertime's <a href="https://shop.tiertime.com/product/cetus-3d-printer-mk3/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Cetus line</a> and the 2019 <a href="https://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-mini/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Prusa Mini</a>^{links for information, no affiliation}.</p> <p>While the specs of the printers are very different, what are the main benefits, tradeoffs and drawbacks that are <strong>inherent in the design</strong> compared to a more traditional Core-XY or Prusa/Portal design?</p>

10472

What are the tradeoffs of a cantilever printer design?

<p>Cantilever printers constrain the X-axis carriage only on one side and have a free hanging side. This means, that the X-beam has to be rather sturdy and is limited in length, making them usually quite small machines. </p> <p>Another tradeoff stemming from this source is, that they have to stiffen this one connection as much as possible. Any play on the connection leads to increasingly large errors the further the printhead is out from the Z-Axis and can lead to bad prints, banding and total failures of prints. This behavior, at least on the TronXY-X1, is sometimes called Z-Wobble and has brought up some aftermarket modifications. For example, <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2275654" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this bracket</a> constrains the movement of the X-cantilever.</p> <p>While all axis would be affected by bad constraints, a cantilever suffers the most: The cantilever (if not well constrained) can deflect in both XY and XZ plane, pretty much opening a cone with the tip at the leadscrew nut. A one side-leadscrew portal design can only deflect in the XZ plane, opening an angle along with the center in the leadscrew nut. A double leadscrew design has, constrains both ends of the X-axis and prevents deflection but could suffer from bending the portal bar.</p> <p>The main benefit of a cantilever design is that being of a rather simple design with few moving parts, understanding as well as repairing and modifying the motion control system is fairly easy. The ease of access and low component number also allows reducing manufacturing costs to some degree.</p> <p>Another thing of note is, that these printers usually have a fairly small form factor, allowing them to be used in small workshops without taking up too much space. However, their build-volume to occupied-volume ratio usually is not as good as other designs - printers with a much larger build volume just get a much better ratio there.</p>

2019-07-04T16:04:27.483

|smoothing|asa|

<p>When I print parts in ABS, acetone vapour smoothing is a good technique to get a smooth finish. Is there an equivalent solvent or process for parts printed in ASA? Ideally I'm looking for something as easy to obtain as acetone, and not so awful a chemical that I wouldn't want to work with it, but I'd still be curious to learn about less friendly solvents.</p>

10487

What solvents are appropriate for smoothing/finishing ASA?

<p>From <a href="https://www.simplify3d.com/support/materials-guide/asa/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Simplify3D - ASA</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>ASA can be smoothed using controlled exposure to acetone vapors (a process called “vapor smoothing”).</p> </blockquote>

2019-07-06T21:38:16.237

|warping|tpe|

<p>I'm attempting to print some flexible TPE filament. But I failed to imagine TPE was this difficult to print.</p> <p>Specs of the shop-brand filament:<br> Red 1.75&nbsp;mm TPE (+-0.05&nbsp;mm).<br> Hardness: 45D.<br> Print temperature: 220-260&nbsp;&deg;C with 0-95&nbsp;&deg;C bed.</p> <p>I'm trying to print <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1936797" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this</a> on my original Prusa i3 MK3S with powder coated sheet with 0.20&nbsp;mm layer with PrusaSlicer 2.0.0.</p> <p>What happens? After 3 or 4 layers, the print warps a lot and detaches from the plate. The object is 40&nbsp;mm long. The next image shows the print detaching from the build plate as well as a skirt of two layers height:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/yfIFS.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Image of detached TPE print from build plate"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/yfIFS.jpg" alt="Image of detached TPE print from build plate" title="Image of detached TPE print from build plate"></a></p> <p>I've tried warmer/colder, more/less fan, faster/slower. I went down to 1&nbsp;mm³/s, which is 7&nbsp;mm/s. For reference, PLA prints 15&nbsp;mm³/s.</p> <p>I readjusted my z-cal, and when I test print a first layer with TPE it's difficult to remove from the bed.</p> <p>I also attempted the glue stick on smooth PEI sheet. Worked until the first few layers of infill, then it still warped.</p> <p>Do I have bad filament with too much shrink, poor settings or is this 45D just too soft for my MK3s? </p> <p><em>Bonus pile of failures:</em><br> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ufVcO.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Image of failed TPE prints from build plate"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ufVcO.jpg" alt="Image of failed TPE prints from build plate" title="Image of failed TPE prints from build plate"></a></p>

10508

TPE warping problems

<p>I had a devil of a time getting this "greasy" tpe85a to print from filaments.ca. Buried in the comments there:</p> <p>85A TPE Warping issue:</p> <p>Mesa K wrote on Filaments.ca to try the following:</p> <blockquote> <p>"Adhesion: this stuff does not stick to Prusa's smooth PEI sheets at all, it also did not stick to masking tape either. The solution I found was to tape a piece of printer paper to the bed (I used packing tape for this, but I would recommend masking tape or something else easier to remove). I didn't have a glue stick or kapton tape to try, but those may work too."</p> </blockquote> <p>That's right, printing on a sheet of printer paper creates amazing adhesion for this stuff. I suspect it to be a bit of a "greasy", oily filament at temp. When you drop a piece of popcorn on a sheet of paper, it leaves a grease slick. It is a permanent stain. So if this filament is a bit greasy (but much higher viscosity than melted butter ;-] ), literally, at temp, the paper would actually act as an absorbent material, and even as a degreaser on the point of contact with the filament.</p> <p>I am printing a phone case. I assume you have used a sheet of paper on top of this sheet of paper and leveled the bed perfectly using the paper as feeler gauge method, or all the rest of this advice is useless. Because of the close tolerances I use on the first layer, this is critical.</p> <p>Tips: Print a huge 1&nbsp;cm brim in case you have to do last ditch intervention on the print. The brim is to prevent warping from the contact surface, but also as a place to tape the print down from the topside in case it decides to warp no matter what you try.</p> <p>Extrusion: I am using a creality CR10V2 I converted to direct drive with a 0.2&nbsp;mm nozzle. I replaced the stock stiff spring with a pair of ballpoint pen springs I hotglued together. ( I am kind of a barbarian.....) They put just enough tension on the tensioner wheel to reliably push the filament without it sticking to the drive gear. (Single drive gear extruder)</p> <p>Set Cura to extrude at 112&nbsp;% or in that range. It will not blob at that rate, but will have a nice fat line laid down. It created blobs for me at 115&nbsp;% extrusion, so avoid going to 145&nbsp;% like I tried at one point. Nice to know my ballpoint pen printer can do that....</p> <p>The initial layer height will be set to 0.12&nbsp;mm, with following layers set to 0.19&nbsp;mm.</p> <p>The wall width will be 0.2&nbsp;mm and that "excess" in the above calc fills gaps and binds two side by side lines together.</p> <p>This stuff also contracts if the adhesion sucks, so extrude extra and it will not contract lengthwise so badly.</p> <p>Heat:</p> <p>Extruder: 220&nbsp;&deg;C. My filament seems to get more plastic-y at higher temps. Lower temps made a softer, more flexible material. Also, printing at a lower temp reduces contraction related warping.</p> <p>Heat Bed: 85&nbsp;&deg;C. Keep it there the whole print. This stuff likes the warm and contracts less if kept warm the whole print. I tried starting at 85&nbsp;&deg;C and letting it cool after the first layer to 40&nbsp;&deg;C, and all 4 sides came loose from the painters tape surface. Keep it hot!</p> <p>Increasing your fan speed seems to help it contract as soon as it is laid down, laying a bead that has already contracted somewhat by the time it is embedded in the layer.</p> <p>Other tips: Printing infill at 25&nbsp;mm/s was too fast. I have it making nice prints at 18&nbsp;mm/s throughout the print. TPE prints slow. Fails print slowly too. Lots of beautiful failures on the path to success... Knowledge gained from watching the machine print.</p> <p>The above guidelines will help you get prints without glue, sometimes with a bit of tape around the brim if it is really cranky. Good luck, very tricky material to work with on large surface area prints.</p>

2019-07-07T18:04:14.470

|prusa-i3|

<p>I recently discovered this kit after reading this Instructables, <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Adding-More-Extruders-to-Any-3d-Printer/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Adding More Extruders to Any 3d Printer</a>: </p> <blockquote> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lq4uQ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="New CNC Shield v3 engraving machine / 3D Printer / + 4pcs A4988/DRV8825/AT2100 Driver Expansion Board for Arduino"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lq4uQ.png" alt="CNC Shield v3 engraving machine / 3D Printer / + 4pcs A4988/DRV8825/AT2100 Driver Expansion Board for Arduino" title="New CNC Shield v3 engraving machine / 3D Printer / + 4pcs A4988/DRV8825/AT2100 Driver Expansion Board for Arduino"></a></p> </blockquote> <p>I'm pretty sure I can use this kit with my board since it uses the same drivers as mine. But that's for motors, not fans. And while I know G-code pretty well, I'm not sure how I would use this to activate and deactivate a fan from G-code. There is probably a better way to do this.</p> <p>The board I am using is from an FLSUN Large Scale 3D printer. Here is a picture of the board: </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bq8w1.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="FLSUN printer board"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Bq8w1.jpg" alt="FLSUN printer board" title="FLSUN printer board"></a></p> <p>There appears to be only one labeled pin for the fan. BUT even if there are other pins that I don't recognize, they would have to be controlled by a micro controller (G-code commands). There appear to be a bunch of un-used pins in the bottom right of the board. But if this board just can't do it, there is a newer board here: [link removed]. </p> <p>It does seem like it is using Arduino and the newer board might have extra pins for a fan. But at that point, would it be easier (cheaper) to just control the fan from the extruder extender kit? Would I just set it as an extruder with a really high filament extrusion speed and send appropriate G-code commands when needed to run it at max voltage?</p> <p>I know on my Lulzbot Mini there is a "parts cooling" fan which allows you to cool off the layers as your structure rises vertically. This is a fan I want. The parts cooling fan <em>must</em> be controlled by the micro controller. It only comes on when printing vertically.</p> <p>I would like to actually add two fans like this to my 3D printer. One of them is a >= 5&nbsp;V cooling fan like above. Another is a regular 12&nbsp;V cooling fan for an extra extruder that I am adding.</p>

10513

How can I add an extra fan, controlled by a microcontroller, to my board?

<p>You can use the <code>M42</code> g-code to manually set any supported digital pin, which can then be used to either enable one of the on-board MOSFETs (D7, D8, D9, D10) or an external MOSFET. For example, <code>M42 P9 S255</code> would enable the parts cooling fan at 100&nbsp;%.</p> <p>You should never run any fan or heater directly off of a microcontroller pin (the ATmega2560 on your board supports up to <strong>40&nbsp;mA</strong>. Standard 5&nbsp;V fans I found online tend to draw <strong>100&nbsp;mA</strong> or more).</p> <p>Your board supports up to four switchable "power" outputs - bed, heater 0, heater 1 and FAN. Depending on what you use so far, one of those may be usable for your fans.</p> <p>Note that on-board MOSFETs usually switch the ground side of the connected device. This means that you for your 12&nbsp;V fan, you can connect it directly to one of those connectors. The 5&nbsp;V would have to receive +5&nbsp;V from elsewhere (like the +5&nbsp;V pins near the bottom right mounting hole), but you can still control the fan by connecting its ground lead over one of the on-board MOSFETs.</p> <p>If four MOSFETs are not enough for you, the L298N module provides an easy way to control four additional fans, while using normal digital pins to control the L298N.</p>

2019-07-07T18:41:11.547

|slicing|dimensional-accuracy|

<p>This basic question has been bothering me for a while.</p> <p>Let's say I'm printing an object of height 20.1 mm with 0.2 mm layers. What will the slicer do? in other words, how will it print the last layer? Since I'm printing with 0.2 mm layers, my object will be printed in 11 layers, but the last one would make my object 20.2 mm high. Is there some sort of compensation (in Slic3r or Cura for example), or will I just get an inaccurate object?</p>

10515

Object's height not a multiple of layer height

<p>Slicers will round off to the next nearest layer, so 20.2&nbsp;mm in your case. However, you can get to 20.1&nbsp;mm if you use a 0.3&nbsp;mm first layer.</p>

2019-07-08T14:34:07.763

|octoprint|speed|

<p>Newbie alert...<br> On my Ender-5, when I go into the "Tune" menu during a print and adjust the "Speed" value, that value will later be shown in the display next to a label saying "FR". I can also adjust that value by simply turning the knob during printing (and thus started to think of it as the "speed dial" ;) ).</p> <p>As far as I was able to tell so far, the "FR" percentage value is being applied to all four stepper motor movements and thus allows me to slow down or speed up printing on-the-fly, e.g. to make up for sub-optimal speed settings chosen during slicing (after all, I'm still learning).</p> <p>I only recently learned that FR is actually short for "Flow Rate" (or is it "Feed Rate"?) and that seems to imply that this is probably about more than just motor speed... Also, there seems to be no equivalent to the Speed setting in Octoprint: All I have on the Control tab are two distinct sliders for "Feedrate" and "Flowrate". Would I always have to move both to achieve the same effect?</p> <p>Can anyone clarify? What implications of changing FR/Speed might I be missing?</p>

10524

What exactly is the relationship between Flow/Feed Rate and (Print) Speed?

<p>By turning the knob in the main screen, you're adjusting "feed rate". This is essentially a factor that all g-code speed settings are multiplied with - "speed dial" seems an appropriate name for it.</p> <p>"Flow rate" is something different altogether - this is multiplied with the extrusion commands. It has the same effect as changing your extruders steps-per-mm. You can adjust under- / overextrusion with this on the fly.</p>

2019-07-10T04:48:36.217

|g-code|slicing|

<p>Recently (in 2017) there was <a href="https://m.box.com/shared_item/https%3A%2F%2Fumich.box.com%2Fs%2Fn9cvs27ckehdr64gzv5igtmboykymgk6" rel="nofollow noreferrer">a paper</a> that got some publicity by researchers who are using a B spline algorithm to reduce vibrations in 3D printers. But before them, a B Spline implementation seems to have been first been made open-source by an alias named DeepSoic <a href="https://hackaday.io/project/7045-splinetravel" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>. I would like to be able to print faster using the method described in the <a href="https://3dprint.com/195734/um-update-algorithm/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">research paper</a>, through post-processing G-code. I'm pretty sure these two sources use basically the same technique but I could be misunderstanding things.</p> <p>Basically instead of stopping and starting for travel moves, speed changes are done in a curvy fashion, so the head never stops and the printer never shakes. This makes the print smoother and also faster. I think printing 10 times faster is something that is really awesome once you try it. Laser cutting relies on cubic splines for a different reason; to create curves in space. But it seems like these techniques are doing something unique to to 3D printing -- using them to adjust head acceleration/de-acceleration to create smoother movement arcs of the print head. Since laser cutters have a constant head movement, this technique wouldn't help them much.</p> <p>The downside seems to be that it makes way more G-code commands, overloading the USB port, since it's sending all the points on a curve so quickly. I'm assuming a smart person today would really only use it through an SD card (which has disadvantages) or if they bought a 3D printer with a free Wi-Fi module thrown in (which also has disadvantages). Maybe a high baud rate helps.</p> <p>I was wondering if there are any more established ways to use this obviously extremely important and beneficial and simple algorithm. Initially I was thinking that this is obviously something that should be added as a checkbox in a slicer, and not something to be implemented in Marlin. But after writing this post I realized that a Marlin implementation would allow you to use this technique over USB, but only if the slicer steedleaders are also using its special G-codes for this optimization. I don't care if it's a post-processing technique like the research paper's or a special Marlin-friendly version, I just want to use this technique even if I have to use this Huawei Wi-Fi module.</p> <p>Basically I would like to know the best way to get started using this technique through a slicer or other software.</p> <hr /> <p>I think there is a miscommunication between users of CNC laser cutters and users of 3D printers. In laser cutting the arcs are used to define the path of the cut, which would be equivalent to filament extrusion. In laser cutting, the motion of the laser itself is constant. But in 3D printing, arcs can be used to smooth the speed of the printhead as it moves across the perimeter, and then to infill. It is using arcs for controlling the head well which isn't a problem in laser cutting. Since it's about the head movement, and not the model itself, I don't see how the STL file really matters.</p> <p>It's really about using an arc to set head speed (a first derivative of position). Not anything about the shape of the model (which would just be position). At least that's my interpretation.</p> <p>The Wi-Fi module is interesting because it receives an IP address from my router, then my router stops listing it as a connected device. But it still connected, because I can access it wirelessly. I am going to look into it more once I can fix some other problems with this dual-head. But so far there's a reason to think it might be backdoored.</p>

10538

How to post-process G-code to make prints faster using splines and arcs?

<p><em>I would have liked to answer linking to credible official sources, but I cannot add references either on direct B-spline printing. So I'm writing down my thoughts. I've familiarized myself in B-splines to understand what they are and read into the 2 references given by the OP.</em></p> <hr /> <p>Basically, the printer software only allows printing of straight lines. Yes I know we can give orders to the printer to print a curve (using <code>G2</code> or <code>G3</code>), but these eventually will be converted to printing straight lines. There is no ready made printer firmware available to print cubic curves directly to my knowledge. If it would be possible, these curves should eventually be translated into smaller straight lines by the firmware of timed stepper rotational output. These extra calculations would demand a considerable effort of the printer board processor, most probably far more an 8-bit processor would be able to handle.</p> <p>Comparing the <a href="https://m.box.com/shared_item/https%3A%2F%2Fumich.box.com%2Fs%2Fn9cvs27ckehdr64gzv5igtmboykymgk6" rel="nofollow noreferrer">paper released in 2017</a> to the <a href="https://hackaday.io/project/7045-splinetravel" rel="nofollow noreferrer">G-code pre-processing software</a> reveals that although both seem to refer to B-spline techniques, they are implemented differently. For example, the pre-processing software aims to reduce the linear travel moves by replacing these with B-spline curves (and not affect the actual print object), while the paper focuses on the optimization of the actual printing curves being optimized by B-spline curves (also using a pre-processor). Both eventually would need to create a multitude of small straight lines to have the printer be able to actually print the object as there is no 3D printing firmware solution to print curves. Do note that the method in the paper has been <a href="https://3dprint.com/195734/um-update-algorithm/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">questioned by the RepRap community</a>, which demonstrated that they could print the same object way faster than the B-spline optimized example. Furthermore, do note that the Marlin community is probably moving in that direction as can be seen from e.g. <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/8308" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this feature request</a> and <a href="http://marlinfw.org/meta/gcode/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this G-code meta overview</a>; G-code instruction <code>G5</code>.</p> <p>So, both methods rely on pre-processing G-codes by identification of sliced coordinate (print) moves, translation into Bézier/B-spline curves for (print) moves, which eventually are translated into normal <code>G0/G1</code> (print) moves. It does not appear that the Marlin community/developers are aiming to implement Bézier or B-spline curves soon. This implies that if you want to pursuit printing B-splines, you need to make your own pre-processor, or dive into Marlin C++ development; an 8-bit based printer board would not be sufficient indeed like the OP mentioned, up-scaling to 32-bit or interfacing with USB might be the only solution.</p>

2019-07-10T07:36:56.617

|3d-models|legal|

<p>If a customer sends me a non-commercial 3D model to print, am I allowed to charge money for the 3D printing process? I understand I cannot charge anything for the model nor offer it as a part of my business.</p> <p>I cannot download the model myself, print and sell it, but if the customer downloads it and sends it to me for me to print it, is it a violation of the license or not?</p>

10540

Printing non-commercial model to make money

<p>I agree that intellectual property is complex. I am not a lawyer, but have been in the middle of patent and copyright actions.</p> <p>In my non-legal opinion, you are providing a printing service for which you are free to charge your customer whatever you agree on. You are not responsible for the disposition of the resulting objects. You do not know how your customer intends to use them. They may be using them for commercial or non-commercial activities. They may have a license to use them in a way that is unknown to you, and, again IMO, they have no obligation to disclose their relationship with the IP holder. That license could be part of their trade advantage.</p> <p>If the customer asks you to work with the design to make changes, and the license prohibits derivative works, I would be careful.</p> <p>Never-the-less, the smell test always applies. If it seems to be illegal, unethical, or immoral, you might choose to forgo the customer and avoid any possibility of being tainted by their activities, if it should turn out that they are behaving badly.</p>

2019-07-10T21:25:07.453

|print-quality|prusa-i3|3d-models|petg|underextrusion|

<p>PET-G is the main filament I use. I can achieve high quality of my prints with my Prusa i3 mk3s printer. Recently however, I've recently changed my nozzle from the default 0.4mm to the 1.2mm. I watched the online video tutorial on how to do it properly and did the whole process carefully. </p> <p>Temperature: 250&nbsp;&deg;C/100&nbsp;&deg;C Speed: max 200&nbsp;%, but results are the same even all the higher ones&nbsp;. Layer height: 0.35&nbsp;mm</p> <p>With my first print (and the next ones too) on the new nozzle I noticed lots of under-extrusion with infill (holes). LOTS of stringing although I've increased retraction. What's the reason ? </p>

10546

PET-G under-extrusion after changing the nozzle to a 1.2 mm d. one (Prusa i3 mk3s and PrusaSlicer v2.0)

<p>Piecing this answer together from the comments on OP's post. Myself and R.. noted that a layer height of 0.35&nbsp;mm, nozzle width of 1.2&nbsp;mm, and a fairly high feedrate (200&nbsp;% according to OP, no reference to what 100&nbsp;% is), is an exceptionally large amount of plastic to try and melt through almost any hotend on the market except possibly the Volcano, or the high-throughput version of the Mosquito. </p> <p>OP responded that lowering the layer height to 0.2&nbsp;mm seemed to fix the issue. That's still an impressive amount of plastic, but it's a 43&nbsp;% decrease in total flow compared to 0.35&nbsp;mm layer height. </p>

2019-07-11T08:44:58.130

|pla|adhesion|build-plate|

<p>Am just wondering if any conclusions can be drawn from this:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0RNE3.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Photo of poor adhesion"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0RNE3.png" alt="Photo of poor adhesion" title="Photo of poor adhesion"></a></p> <p>Three corners are solid, but not the one in the centre of the plate.</p> <p>The bed was levelled before printing (and checked afterwards also). Even though the photo may <em>appear</em> to show a slant or lower corner (where the print is coming off), there is not. The bed is level, relative to the extruder, at room temperature.</p> <p>The temperature of the bed is about 70&nbsp;°C. I get inconsistent readings (with laser thermometer) but to the finger it feels about the same everywhere.</p> <p>It's a glass bed, presumably with some coating. Is it degraded? Local temperature variation? Any ideas anyone?</p>

10550

Build plate adhesion, PLA

<p>I cleaned the bed with acetone and it seems to have helped, so presumably it was just a build-up of something.</p>

2019-07-12T22:32:49.220

|ultimaker-cura|slicing|

<p>I am trying to slice a model that is half a mm less than max width, but not successful.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/puSzw.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/puSzw.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>What am I missing? Is there some minimum value less than maximum allowed, or something?</p> <p><strike><strong>Edit</strong>: after changing the width to 220 in machine settings, slicing works.</strike> This is a dangerous thing to do, as it <em>could</em> damage the printer.</p>

10565

Using maximum width when slicing in Ultimaker Cura

<p><a href="/a/10566">This answer</a> already addresses that Ultimaker Cura "eats up" platform space for e.g. skirt, brim, raft, dual extruder, deposition of priming blob, prime towers, etc. Disabling those features will reclaim platform space so you can print larger prints. <strong><em>However, that will only work when your printer is correctly configured!</em></strong> E.g. the center of the bed needs to be the center of the center in the slicer which needs to have the specific sizes of the bed dimensions. Note that increasing the bed size past the actual dimensions is not considered to be a nice solution, it is an easy work-around that gives you extra space in X⁺ and Y⁺, i.e. it does not center this newly created space, furthermore, this can destroy your printer is there is tight space left on those axes! Let's illustrate that with an example, if you have a 200x200&nbsp;mm build plate and want to slice something of size 200x200&nbsp;mm, this should be centered around (100, 100), if you change the bed size to 220x220&nbsp;mm, Ultimaker Cura will center the print around (110, 110) which means that the print maximum coordinates are 210&nbsp;mm; this is outside the bed area and potentially can destroy your printer!</p> <p>What you should check is if the physical center of your bed actually is the center as defined by the firmware of the printer (surprisingly, many of the cheaper printer have this incorrectly configured). The answers on question <a href="/q/6375"><em>"How to center my prints on the build platform?"</em> (Re-calibrate homing offset)</a> describe how you could do that.</p>

2019-07-13T14:26:33.847

|marlin|firmware|knowledgebase|

<p>Standard Marlin has one problem: when the power suddenly is gone, the print is gone. Prusa and many china printers however come with "Power Loss Recovery" or "Power Out Protection" or similar. But especially China printers come without <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8466/what-is-thermal-runaway-protection">Thermal Runaway Protection</a>, so in order to make the printer safe, one often has to get rid of TRP (in the basic shape it comes).</p> <p><strong>How can the PLR be turned on?</strong></p>

10571

How to activate Power Loss Recovery in Marlin?

<p>Marlin firmware has such a feature that can be enabled to resume printing after a power outage.</p> <p>To enable power-loss recovery you should send</p> <pre><code>M413 S1 </code></pre> <p>to the printer using a console (e.g. using Pronterface, OctoPrint, Repetier-host, etc.) or put commands in a text file with extension <code>.g</code> that can be printed from SD card. To disable power-loss recovery send/print:</p> <pre><code>M413 S0 </code></pre> <p>To report the state of the power-loss recovery, send through a console:</p> <pre><code>M413 </code></pre> <p>This will result in a returning message in the console of e.g. <code>This Power-loss recovery ON</code>.</p> <p>To retain the setting, you can use <code>M500</code> to store it in memory.</p> <hr /> <p>If you enable <code>M413</code> in Marlin firmware, the printer will write a resume printing file to SD card e.g. every layer.</p> <p>From <a href="http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M413.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">M413 - Power-loss Recovery documentation</a> I quote:</p> <blockquote> <p>Enable or disable the Power-loss Recovery feature. When this feature is enabled, the state of the current print job (SD card only) will be saved to a file on the SD card. If the machine crashes or a power outage occurs, the firmware will present an option to Resume the interrupted print job. In Marlin 2.0 the <code>POWER_LOSS_RECOVERY</code> option must be enabled.</p> <p>This feature operates without a power-loss detection circuit by writing to the recovery file periodically (e.g., once per layer), or if a <code>POWER_LOSS_PIN</code> is configured then it will write the recovery info only when a power-loss is detected. The latter option is preferred, since constant writing to the SD card can shorten its life, and the print will be resumed where it was interrupted rather than repeating the last layer. (Future implementations may allow use of the EEPROM or the on-board SD card.)</p> </blockquote> <p>This means if you cut the power you can resume the print layer, the only problem is that the part must remain attached to the plate, if it comes loose it is hard to resume printing. This feature is now commonly found on printers these days.</p> <p>The regular pause and resume functionality of the printer will not work when the power is cut over night, i.e. no recovery file is written in such a case.</p>

2019-07-13T14:49:41.060

|g-code|software|knowledgebase|usb|

<p>I read that G-code commands can be sent through a console/terminal over USB. What is a console/terminal and how do you use that?</p>

10573

What is a printer console/terminal?

<p>In addition to <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/10574/5740">this answer</a>, the OctoPrint 3D print server software contains a terminal which you can use to send G-code commands from a browser:</p> <h2>OctoPrint</h2> <p>In the bottom string input box (under the check mark items) you put in a G-code command, which will be send to the printer when you hit the <em>Send</em> button. If the printer gives a reply to that command, it will be displayed in the log window above the check mark interface items.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8X5EO.png" rel="noreferrer" title="OctoPrint terminal interface"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/8X5EO.png" alt="OctoPrint terminal interface" title="OctoPrint terminal interface"></a></p>

2019-07-14T02:53:25.627

|print-quality|pla|warping|

<p>I've been trying a lot of different things to combat corners curling upward in the first few tens of layers after the bottom skin. To be clear, I'm not talking about corners of the first layer printed on the bed, but rather the points of the outline in layers above the base where direction of print motion changes discontinuously (discrete corner) or abruptly (turn with very tight curvature). Here's an image I found (not mine) that demonstrates:</p> <p><img src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hxUDhy07rC8/T8k0-UdTcqI/AAAAAAAAAdk/bfGQ9W-4N40/s1600/IMG_9471.JPG" alt="print with curled corners next to one without"></p> <p>And a pic during print of the type of curling I'm talking about:</p> <p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/WJHAs.jpg" alt="curling corners during printing"></p> <p>And some previous worse prints:</p> <p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/6w6kC.jpg" alt="2 dodecahedra with very warped edges, one with minor distortion to one edge, shown bottom-up"></p> <p>My go-to worst test case for this now is a 20mm tall hollow dodecahedron with 0.8mm shell (hollow geometry, not just empty infill; 0% infill on a non-hollow model does even worse, shown above). For everything else I've tried, I've mostly been able to sovle the problem with combinations of</p> <ul> <li>Improved cooling fan duct</li> <li>Lowered bed temperature or unheated bed (but this is a tradeoff; it seriously hurts first layer quality and increases risk of non-adhesion)</li> <li>Disabling Cura's overhang detection mode (non-uniform print speed causes a <strong>huge</strong> increase in the curling due to latency of extrusion rate response)</li> <li>Increasing motion acceleration limits or decreasing speed limits (also mitigating the latency in extrusion rate response)</li> </ul> <p>but I can't get all 5 edges of the worst-case dodecahedron completely warping-free without just heavily slowing down the print; during print it's obvious that the curling at the corners in each layer is the source of the warping. Increasing Cura's <code>cool_min_layer_time</code> to 10 seconds (default is 6, and I usually get by fine with 3-4.5 for most things) mostly but not entirely solved it, and going much slower than that seems likely to introduce other surface artifacts from extremely slow extrusion.</p> <p>Are there any additional tricks I'm missing for solving this? I'd like something that's easy to leave on all the time or at least to automate, as opposed to hacks like adding in a junk tower off to the side to waste time between layers.</p> <p>My printer is an Ender 3 with stock gear except for improved fan duct. The problem was worse with the stock fan duct.</p>

10583

How do you solve PLA corner-curling short of printing really, REALLY slow?

<p>While I tried a lot of things to solve this, including tuning temperature, fan, speed, etc., ultimately the single biggest factor that causes or prevents it is the state of Cura's <em>Outer Before Inner Walls</em> (<code>outer_inset_first</code>) option. With outer walls first, I don't have the problem at all. With the default (inner walls first), I have it to varying degrees depending on geometry and a lot of other factors.</p> <p>I don't have a good explanation for why this happens so I'm asking a new question about it.</p>

2019-07-14T04:20:17.843

|z-probe|

<p>So I am really fed up with inductive probes. The one I am using keeps getting shifted slightly every time I switch nozzles or run an oozy print. That means I have to autolevel again, then manually set a Z-offset (as I would have anyway if I didn't have an inductive probe).</p> <p>On my Lulzbot Mini there is a different scenario. There are four washers at each part of the bed. The nozzle is "grounded" so that when the Mini touches the washers, a current is created that seems to act as the Z-stop. Surprisingly there isn't much out there for a DIY implementation of this.</p> <p>Since I have an aluminum bed (and aluminum is conductive), I am thinking of doing the following:</p> <p>1) Put one wire from the Z-stop ground pin to the aluminum bed. Make sure it is away from the wires for the heater / thermister (?)</p> <p>2) Put one wire from the Z-stop 5V into the heating block of my nozzle.</p> <p>When the nozzle probes the bed, a current will be created from the 5V heating block, through the conductive nozzle, into the conductive bed, to the Z-stop ground.</p> <p>I'm always unsure when it comes to circuitry. Will there be any dangerous interference from this technique from, say, the bed heating circuit? I'm not sure what kind of protection circuitry are on each of the Arduino's pins, and I'd rather not fry my board if this sounds like a bad idea to someone.</p> <p>I figure most people don't do this because they have sheets of PEI or some other non-conductive material on their bed. I can use PET tape but still leave holes in the tape for this autobed leveling probe. It would be really great if it worked and wasn't dangerous. </p> <p>I shouldn't even need the third pin?</p>

10585

Wiring Z-stop directly to hot end and aluminum bed / spacers

<p>This will not work reliably.</p> <p>I know, I have tried it, for a couple of years, with poor consistency.</p> <p>Now, I will tell you that it worked better than the parallax IR sensors. It worked better than trying to slam the head into the bed and listen for the click.</p> <p>I used the brass nozzle and the aluminum bed as a switch to detect the bed position.</p> <p>I used ABS slurry on the bed. With a 100°C bed the ABS was soft enough for the nozzle to make contact. Elmer's Glue for PLA also was soft enough.</p> <p>But, with the elasticity I had in the synthetic Z-axis of the delta machine, the time delay to much the bed adhesive out of the way, and the general problem of trying to conduct electricity through an aluminum oxide layer, I had variability of about 0.1 mm, which was far to much to give a reliable first layer.</p> <p>To "level" the delta bed, I would touch each point several times (with a clean bed) and fit my leveling function to the noisy data. For finding my zero reference at the beginning of a print, I would touch off three time and only use the third one. This helped, but it was still super noisy.</p> <p>I have subsequently incorporated a strain gauge in the triangular delta-bit. It gives much more accurate contact information and is not effected by the bed glue not does the aluminum oxide layer cause problems.</p>

2019-07-14T11:06:39.267

|ultimaker-cura|g-code|knowledgebase|

<p>I have a model that contains a cavity, into which I want to insert a piece of metal, so I can use a magnet to stick to the print. How can I introduce a pause into the G-code without manipulating it manually in Ultimaker Cura?</p>

10587

How to pause a print to insert something in a cavity using Ultimaker Cura?

<p><a href="/a/10588/">This answer</a> already explains how you insert the G-codes to enable a pause into your model. But, <strong>this will only work if the printer supports the G-codes that are inserted by Cura</strong>. E.g. <a href="/q/11236">this question</a> shows that this does not always work!</p> <p>To pause the printer you would need to resort into other methods, e.g. a manually inserted <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G4:_Dwell" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><code>G4</code> (Dwell)</a> would be a viable solution as shown in <a href="/a/11242">this answer</a>.</p>

2019-07-15T03:37:23.467

|openscad|

<p>I'm new to OpenSCAD, but I can only get default parameters working for simple values. </p> <p>I'm wondering if there is any way to achieve the following, where I have some parameters available to the module caller but by default they are derived from other parameters. </p> <p>I had expected this to work - I thought the compiler to be able to resolve these variables in-scope during compilation since everything here is deterministic - so perhaps I'm just missing some syntax? If not, is there some better way to achieve this?</p> <pre><code>module clasp(length=20, pin_radius=5, mouth = pin_radius * 0.9, inner_radius = pin_radius + 0.25, outer_radius = inner_radius * 1.4, ) { ... do the work ... } </code></pre> <p>Unfortunately this approach leaves mount/inner/outer all <code>undef</code>. </p>

10593

Handing OpenSCAD module parameters derived from other variables

<p>This seems to be a limitation of the language. One workaround that's only moderately ugly is, in the body of the module:</p> <pre><code>mouth = is_undef(mouth) ? pin_radius * 0.9 : mouth; </code></pre> <p>etc. If you'll only be using the file via a <code>use</code> directive in other files, another approach is file-scope variables. These can be overridden when the module is called, just like module parameters, and they do not provide or take values for/from the calling file's file-scope variable namespace.</p>

2019-07-15T03:56:21.063

|print-quality|infill|

<p>While printing PET-G (@ 220&nbsp;&deg;C nozzle and over 58&nbsp;&deg;C bed temperature), the outlines always print fine but the infill keeps shoveling. Could I be printing too hot or too cold? I am using a 0.8 mm nozzle. </p> <p>Shoveling is when the plastic is over extruding to the point at which it starts piling up in the path of the nozzle, usually resulting in an uneven surface. Visually, it manifests like a snow plow shoveling snow. I tried adding an image, but, the filament is black so that turned out to be a difficult task.</p> <p>This reason why this is a problem is because the nozzle hits those peaks while printing, which seems to be causing the print to detach from the bed. I've also noticed the print curling up at the edges, but I think that's a separate problem.</p> <p>I am printing at 3000&nbsp;mm/min. The outline, and the infill is 80&nbsp;% of that. The layer height is 0.6&nbsp;mm</p>

10594

Infill keeps "shoveling", but perimeters are fine

<p>Normally, what you're calling shoveling is caused by having the bed too high - when you deposit enough material for a space that should be the nominal layer height high, but significantly less volume is available, it has nowhere to go but up around the edges of the nozzle.</p> <p>However, in your case your temperatures are also seriously wrong for PETG. The normal recommended range of nozzle temperature for PETG is 230-250&nbsp;°C, and in my experience, you need the full 250&nbsp;°C to have any hope of printing fast. At 220&nbsp;°C I'm really surprised you're not having problems with underextrusion instead.</p> <p>The bed temperature is likely even more important. Minimum bed temperature for PETG is 80&nbsp;°C. If the material is hitting a 58&nbsp;°C bed as it comes out, it's likely to cool way too fast. This may lead to what you call shoveling (especially if you see both pits and ridges rather than just ridges), but even if not, it's going to prevent the material from bonding to previously laid down lines, so that your print will end up more brittle than PLA.</p> <p>One additional detail I initially missed involves your 0.8&nbsp;mm nozzle. It might be hard for the hotend to keep up with properly melting that much PETG at normal print speeds. As noted in the comments, a 50&nbsp;mm/s linear extrusion rate with an 0.8&nbsp;mm nozzle is equivalent, in volumetric extrusion rate, to a 200&nbsp;mm/s linear extrusion rate with a typical 0.4&nbsp;mm nozzle, which would be extremely fast for PETG. It's unlikely that any hotend except a "volcano" or similar (with extended melt zone length) could keep up with raising that much material to 250&nbsp;°C that quickly.</p>

2019-07-15T04:27:54.393

|ultimaker-cura|3d-design|slicing|

<p>Goal : create a pair of bevel gears for 90 degrees angle axles.</p> <p>Context : the gears are designed with an OpenSCAD library (<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1604369" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1604369</a>, function 'pfeilkegelradpaar'), then I try to modify them using TinkerCAD.</p> <p>The problem : When printing the STL exported from OpenSCAD, everything seems fine. But when I import the STL in TinkerCAD, there is a separation where the angle changes, and I cannot seem to find a configuration that works.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cKsOx.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/cKsOx.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>Also, when previewing with Cura (tried with the older v14 as well as the latest v4), I get the same behavior : the exported STL creates a solid object, while the STL from TinkerCAD (even if not modified, just imported and exported) has a 'gap' of about 8 layers.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/S5ioP.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/S5ioP.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>And, of course, everything fails afterwards.</p> <p>Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.</p>

10595

Bevel gears 3D model

<p>I don't know how to explain how the problem is occurring with the STL post-processing tools you are using. </p> <p>Try loading the STL directly into a slicer and view the result, then slice and view the toolpath. It is always helpful to eliminate steps in an attempt to narrow down where the problem is generated.</p> <p>Were I to try to patch the OpenSCAD model, I would create a hub component that overlays where the crack is found. This would be small cylinder with a hole that overlays the hub.</p> <p>I have had success adding elements and holes to existing OpenSCAD models and imported STL files using OpenSCAD.</p>

2019-07-15T05:07:36.373

|replacement-parts|part-identification|

<p>How should I describe this part which looks like a threaded flange so that I can research replacements? It is the gold piece in the middle of each photo. It is used to create a bed raiser in the FLSUN Cube 3D printer.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iNRcM.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/iNRcM.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UGmZd.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UGmZd.png" alt="enter image description here"></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lUqe9.png" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lUqe9.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>It gets attached to a motor using a flexible bearing</p>

10596

What is this called? A tube flange bearing threaded for threaded pushrod

<p><em><a href="/a/10597/">This answer</a> already describes the name of the "golden" component you are after, this answer expands upon that answer to note that there are various nuts with different thread sizes that look virtually the same, it would be a pity to order the incorrect one.</em></p> <hr> <p>Note that this trapezoidal lead screw nut is made from brass (e.i. in your image, but these nuts are also available in POM/Delrin) and needs to have exactly the same screw threads as your lead screw has. A much used lead screw is using the following designation <code>Tr8x8(p2)</code> ( for a full description of what that means look into <a href="/a/5668/">this answer (Anet A8 lead screw threads)</a>). Do note that there are many lead screw nut sizes, buying the wrong one will not fit the current lead screw.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TBUwh.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Example of various lead size lead screw nuts"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/TBUwh.png" alt="Example of various lead size lead screw nuts" title="Example of various lead size lead screw nuts"></a></p> <p>From the image you supplied it looks as if that is the same lead screw as used in the linked answer of the Anet A8 lead screw. To verify this, you could measure how much the nut advances on a full rotation of the nut, if it is 8&nbsp;mm, buy the <code>Tr8x8(p2)</code> if e.g. 4&nbsp;mm, buy the <code>Tr8x4(p2)</code>. Note that if you are going to buy a new nut, you could opt for a nut that has no backlash, <strong>BUT</strong>, be sure that it would fit the acrylic hole and you have enough space as its height is larger, or be prepared to modify the acrylic part or reconstruct a new one (it wouldn't be a bad idea to do that anyways, acrylic is known for cracking under applying force such as screws and nuts). Note that an anti backlash nut must be used as depicted below.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fgEd9.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="image of an anti backlash lead screw nut"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fgEd9.png" alt="image of an anti backlash lead screw nut" title="image of an anti backlash lead screw nut"></a></p>

2019-07-15T09:06:13.603

|printer-building|power-supply|

<p>I would like to make a 24&nbsp;V (3D printer board and shield) setup, as opposed to the usual 12&nbsp;V, and to do so I had been considering using the Taurino Power board, or the clone Eruduino. However, I just found this board:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FoUYh.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Re-ARM microcontroller, with SD card slot"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FoUYh.jpg" alt="Re-ARM microcontroller, with SD card slot" title="Re-ARM microcontroller, with SD card slot"></a></p> <p>The specifications state a DC input of up to 36&nbsp;V:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UX1QF.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Specifications"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/UX1QF.png" alt="Specifications" title="Specifications"></a></p> <p>Does anyone know whether that <em>really</em> means it can handle 24&nbsp;V in the same manner as the Taurino/Eruduino? If so, then that looks like a double win: not only 24&nbsp;V support, but also a faster processor. Anyone have experience with this board?</p> <p>I was thinking of using with a RAMPS1.6 Plus (maybe), or just a regular RAMPS 1.4 (<a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_24v" rel="nofollow noreferrer">hacked to support 24&nbsp;V</a>). I'm just shopping about, and I thought that if I was going to spend £14 on an Eruduino, then I just as well spend that money on something better.</p> <p>It does work with Marlin apparently, as some of the customer reviews would suggest, but none of the reviews that I could find referred to a 24&nbsp;V setup (heated bed etc.), hence my question.</p>

10601

Is this re-Arm controller actually 24 V capable?

<p>For completion, I've just seen this, <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/9wfrmk/can_a_ramps_16_support_24v/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Can a ramps 1.6 support 24v?</a> (which basically confirms the 24&nbsp;V support of the Re-ARM board) although it isn't particularly useful w.r.t. the RAMPS 1.6 side of things, although I would imagine the the <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_24v" rel="nofollow noreferrer">24&nbsp;V RAMPS hack</a> would still apply.</p> <p>In addition, Alex Kenis does a great review, and he has successfully tried it with 24&nbsp;V, watch <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-wekOqM5gY" rel="nofollow noreferrer">32-bit series part 4: Re-ARM board "review?"</a>. Whilst the RE-ARm offers a lot of advantages, some of the main down points to be aware of are:</p> <ul> <li>No 5&nbsp;V <em>analogue inputs</em>, they are 3.3&nbsp;V, so the endstops use 3V3 logic (not a problem from mechanical switches, but 5&nbsp;V optical endstops will have a problem</li> <li>Some of the pins of the Mega are missing from the Re-ARM.</li> </ul>

2019-07-16T07:02:36.777

|printer-building|power-supply|

<p>One of the main hacks for converting RAMPS 1.4 boards to use with 24 V, as stated in <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_24v" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RAMPS 24V</a>, is replacing the polyfuses, principally <code>F2</code> (MF-R1100), with wire and using an inline (car blade or wire) fuse on the heatbed wire (or between PSU and RAMPS) instead¹. However, that is for the RAMPS 1.4 boards.</p> <p>As <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.5" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RAMPS 1.5</a> notes (as well as 0scar's answer to <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5623/ramps-1-4-1-5-or-1-6">RAMPS 1.4, 1.5 or 1.6?</a>):</p> <blockquote> <p>The RAMPS 1.5 uses small surface-mounted fuses rather than the large yellow fuses prone to breakage on the RAMPS 1.4. The downside is that replacing the fuses becomes much more difficult.</p> </blockquote> <p>Are these SMD fuses rated the same voltages, or greater? Yes, this could be a bit like asking &quot;How long is a piece of string&quot; as it depends upon the manufacturer, but does anyone know what voltage <em>should</em> they be rated for?</p> <p>Ultimately, if they are both rated at greater than 24 V, then there should be no need to replace them.</p> <p>The <a href="https://discuss.toms3d.org/hardware-f6/ramps1-4-or-ramps1-5-or-ramps-1-6-t481.html#p2786" rel="nofollow noreferrer">answer</a> on this thread, <a href="https://discuss.toms3d.org/hardware-f6/ramps1-4-or-ramps1-5-or-ramps-1-6-t481.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Re: Ramps1.4 or Ramps1.5 or ramps 1.6???</a> states:</p> <blockquote> <p>OK the ramps 1.6 can only handle 12v OR 24V</p> </blockquote> <p>so, that would imply that the intention for 24 V support was there, although, unfortunately, the poster does not post their reference.</p> <p>However, the <a href="https://github.com/bigtreetech/ramps-1.6/blob/master/Ramps1.6/hardware/R6Schematic%20diagram.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PDF</a> of the RAMPS 1.6 schematic shows the same rated fuses as the RAMPS 1.4</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hbPML.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/hbPML.png" alt="RAMPS 1.6 Power section" /></a></p> <p>Nevertheless, that seems like a straight forward copy and paste from the RAMPS 1.4 schematic as it clearly references the MF-R500 PTC, and obviously SMD fuses have been used instead - or are the part numbers the same for the SMD fuses..? I had a google but couldn't see MF-R500 SMD fuses (maybe I didn't look hard enough?).</p> <hr /> <h3>Footnote</h3> <p>¹ This is because the 11 A fuse is only rated to 16 V. Note that <code>F1</code> (MF-R500) is rated for 5 A at 30 V, and as such is sufficient for 24 V operation.</p>

10611

Is it necessary to replace the SMD fuses in RAMPS 1.5 or greater, for use with 24 volts?

<p>I found that at least the following two RAMPS 1.6 derived boards are 24 V capable without modifications:</p> <ul> <li>Bigtreetech RAMPS 1.6 Plus (see the PCB layout picture in <a href="https://www.roboter-bausatz.de/3080/ramps-1.6-plus-3d-drucker-steuerung" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this offer</a>)</li> <li>King Print RAMPS 1.6 Plus</li> </ul> <p>This information is so far only from webshop offers, so might not be the most reliable (and I did not test it myself yet). If somebody can find a confirmation from the manufacturer's spec documents, please let me know.</p>

2019-07-18T20:06:52.717

|resin|

<p>Do the properties of 3D printer resin allow it to stick to copper clad surfaces when cured? I am interested in turning my filament based 3D printer into a photo plotter with a laser that can cure a thin layer of resin coated onto a copper surface.</p>

10623

Can the resin from Resin based 3D printers be used to make printed circuit boards?

<p>Brushed aluminum is a common bed surface for resin based printers. The aspect of the aluminum that is important to the print is the adhesion, hence the roughness of brushed aluminum. It has to be sufficient to hold the print in place, but not so extreme as to cause destruction on removal.</p> <p>In the case of copper as a print surface, one would certainly want some mechanical adhesion in the form of surface roughness. You've not specified the forces that would be applied to the copper once cured. If you do not plan to manipulate the copper surface in an excessive manner, it's likely that it would adhere. It's also just as likely to pop free if the plate or surface is flexed. I've seen no reference online to copper coated print beds. This would lead me to believe that it was tested and rejected as suitable for 3D printing, but not necessarily unsuitable for your purposes.</p> <p>This is one of those situations where testing is warranted and not particularly difficult to accomplish. You can purchase UV curing resin, build a tin to hold the copper surface and pour the expected layer thickness. Leave it in the sun and let nature's UV do the curing.</p> <p>Consider if you have not yet done so to research safety practice for handling this substance. Wear gloves and eye protection, cover any exposed skin surfaces and have good ventilation.</p>

2019-07-19T15:07:26.323

|print-quality|pla|troubleshooting|extrusion|

<p>I have a Duplicator i3 mini, which has yet to make it a month without breaking. This time it is extra broken because the filament is not extruding properly. the most successful print I've had yet had about a centimeter before turning into an absolute mess. I have a picture. It was not stringy, and had the exact shape i was trying to print, but was like a frame of a sort. I am printing with matterhackers MH build series PLA, which has worked before this started happening. What should I do? What troubleshooting steps should I take?<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZZzyt.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZZzyt.jpg" alt="It&#39;s a mess"></a></p>

10629

Why is my 3D printer not extruding properly?

<p>Underextrusion and clogs can also be caused by insufficient temperature in the hot end. You've not reference your temperatures, so consider to use a test model and print at different temperatures. Too low temps can result in the problem you present, while too hot temps will increase stringing and peculiar blobs on the print. </p> <p>If your slicer changes print speed at the layer of destruction, it may also be too fast, which is related to temperatures. Simplify3D allows speed variation as well as temperature variation at selected layers, but it requires deliberate action on the part of the operator.</p>

2019-07-20T15:43:58.080

|3d-design|print-orientation|

<p><strong>Please Note:</strong> This question is <em>not</em> about the design. It's about deciding print orientation <em>after the design</em>. </p> <p>I have a small, but complex piece which I need to print. Here are two images of different orientation for you:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jpi84.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/jpi84.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FPuGb.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/FPuGb.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>No matter how I orient it, it will require a support structure. Any which way I print it, I believe there will be pros/cons to doing so. My question is, <strong>Is there a thought process for how to orient the part for printing?</strong> What are some of the things to consider when deciding print orientation? </p> <p>Note-1: For a size reference of the part, looking at the second image, it is approximately 60&nbsp;mm from the top of the long bottom part with the two "claws" point down, to the top of the vertical piece which has the two larger chamfered holes in it. In the same image, the left part will be at the bottom when put into use, though will be suspended (the chamfered holes will have wood screws in them, with a block of wood on the other side from the chamfers.</p> <p>Note-2: For this example, I will be using Priline PLA filament on an Anet-A8 printer. </p>

10636

How to decide print orientation?

<p>(Love the question and here is my 2 cents).</p> <p>Firstly, you want to minimize supports. Even if you have dissolvable supports, you would still want to minimize the usage.</p> <p>For Example:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LoQCE.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/LoQCE.jpg" alt="Smartphone and tablet Stand by bq3D"></a></p> <p>At first glance of the finished object, it is not obvious at what angle it was printed. Upon close inspection the overhang in the part is designed such that it can be printed without supports. This brings me to my first point:</p> <p><strong>Design with fabrication in mind</strong></p> <p>I've often designed myself into a corner with parts that are complex and are impossible to print properly; or they use up too much filament in the supports. To this end I try to <em>think about the shadow</em> that the part will cast on the bed if there was a light source directly over head. I often orient the part so that it will </p> <p><strong>Cast the smallest possible shadow.</strong></p> <p>Then there are the features. Does the hole need to be round? Does this flange need to be strong? If so then I try to ensure that the feature is oriented in the XY plane as much as possible, because the Z axis is the weakest. Therefore if you have a hole, and it needs to be strong, then it should be printed perpendicular to the Z axis.</p>

2019-07-21T01:48:04.343

|software|linux|

<p>I have a da Vinci miniMaker and am trying to find a way to get XYZware on my computer which is running Ubuntu Linux 19.04. On the XYZprinting website I found references to a version build for Ubuntu, but it was an outdated version with no download link. If anyone knows any way to print to any XYZ 3D printed on Ubuntu, it would be appreciated if you could let me know.</p>

10641

Using a XYZ printer on Linux

<p>XYZprinting is a company known for vendor lock-in (even filament), so it's not surprising that their software's Linux support is bad, but apparently it is possible to ditch their XYZware and get it to print gcode from whatever slicer you like. Check out the <a href="https://github.com/reality-boy/miniMover" rel="nofollow noreferrer">miniMover</a> repository:</p> <blockquote> <p>This is a project that lets you send GCode to an XYZ da Vinci prniter. It will also convert from a .3w file to .gcode and back, and can monitor and setup the printer as well. This works with newer printers that implement the version 3 serial protocol. These include the Nano, Mini W, miniMaker and Jr. line of printers among others.</p> </blockquote> <p>You'll also need to setup a profile for your printer in a slicer (I'd recommend Ultimaker Cura), but it looks like the thread linked from the README has information on settings needed.</p>

2019-07-21T02:57:43.977

|ramps-1.4|ramps|

<p>In the RAMPS v1.4 board, it seems like the X, Y, and Z motors all use at least one analog pin, while the extruder motors are entirely digital. See just the top left block of this photo:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0OSvc.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="RAMPS 1.4 connectors"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0OSvc.png" alt="RAMPS 1.4 connectors" title="RAMPS 1.4 connectors"></a></p> <p>Is there any advantage to using analog vs. digital pins in the motors?</p> <p>As far as I can tell the traditional thermistors have to be have an Analog pin input because of the way they are read and processed. The MOSFETs for the heated bed and hot ends (and fans) should be digital because of the way transistors work. The end-stops are also digital because they are on-off switches.</p> <p>But besides that, I can't tell if there is any other requirements or advantages to using some pins in analog / digital, especially for the motors which have seemingly contradictory pin assignments.</p> <p>There are also three digital pins I don't recognize: MISO, MOSI, and SCK.</p> <p>Right now I'm looking to add 2 new motors using 8 total pins (6 Digital pins, 2 for ground). It seems to me I could use any combination of the D pin available in the image: </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0bG7m.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="Pin connection diagram AM350 v.9.5.1"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/0bG7m.jpg" alt="Pin connection diagram AM350 v.9.5.1" title="Pin connection diagram AM350 v.9.5.1"></a></p>

10643

Digital vs. analog pins

<p>"Analog pin" is misleading nomenclature. Every pin is a digtal pin, but some digital pins happen to also be connected to the analog-to-digital converter and can thus <em>also</em> handle measuring analog signals.</p> <p>Every analog pin can also serve as a perfectly good digital pin. The reverse is not true; if something requires an analog pin you cannot use a digital pin. The only things that require analog pins are the thermistors, for the rest (motors, MOSFETS, endstops,...) you can use either a digital pin or an analog pin.</p>

2019-07-22T03:57:56.643

|troubleshooting|ramps-1.4|wiring|

<p>I'd like to add an extra motor to my board and I'm not sure where I went wrong. The motor will be used to spin a rotating wheel/carriage of potential hot ends to switch to. Because it's just a motor it doesn't need a heatrod or a temperature sensor. </p> <p>I had just a MKS_BASE 1.0 board, so I purchased a RAMPS 1.4 board from <a href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Printer-RAMPS-1-4-Controller-Board-for-Arduino-Stampante-Reprap-Prusa-Mendel/303099940701?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&amp;_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Ebay</a> to be its extender.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ucxb5.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="RAMPS 1.4 board"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ucxb5.jpg" alt="RAMPS 1.4 board" title="RAMPS 1.4 board"></a></p> <p>(( **Warning ** this board is cheap because it was improperly produced and is a fire hazard: <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4</a> . I recommend using a CNC shield instead ))</p> <p>This red board is meant to fit an Arduino Mega, but I figure I can use the extra pins on the MKS_BASE1.0 and connect them with jumper wire to the RAMPS 1.4 board. It made sense in case I want to add other things to the original MKS_BASE 1.0 board (like more hot end heater cartridges). </p> <p>I connected the 5V and one GND pin from my MKS_BASE 1.0. I also connected some of the SERVOS pins from the MKS_BASE 1.0: D37 is the 'Dir', D35 is the 'Step', and D17 is the 'Enable'. I also connected the 12V power supply to the RAMPS 1.4 board too.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YlGDW.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer" title="RAMPS 1.4 board pinout"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/YlGDW.png" alt="RAMPS 1.4 board pinout" title="RAMPS 1.4 board pinout"></a></p> <p>When it came time to modify Marlin everything was a bit annoying because although Marlin makes it easy to add more extruders, adding just motors is a little more difficult. I had to change the number of extruders to be 3 (from dual extrusion to dual extrusion + extra motor), enable an extra temperature pin (which i am leaving empty) and also modify the pins.h file. </p> <p>I probably wouldn't have had simulate this motor as an extruder if I knew the raw Arduino commands for spinning a motor using calls to <code>D37</code>, <code>D35</code>, and <code>D17</code>, so I figured simulating an extruder would be better, but now I'm second-guessing that decision.</p> <p>Here's my modification to pins.h:</p> <pre><code>#define E2_STEP_PIN 35 #define E2_DIR_PIN 37 #define E2_ENABLE_PIN 17 #define HEATER_2_PIN 17 //#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 3 in Configuration.h #define TEMP_2_PIN 3 // Marlin 0-indexes these pins, so "2" is actually for the "3"rd extruder </code></pre> <p>First thing I have to do is allow for cold extrusions by using M302 S-80. The other (real) extruder motors will all move after this command, so I have that part working.. . </p> <p>In Repetier-Host I am just selecting Extruder 3 and trying to "push filament" through it but the motor isn't moving. I'm using an A4988 stepper driver on a Kysan 1124090. Actually, I did this whole process with two motors because I wasn't sure whether the hardware itself would be an issue, so with another set of pins I'm using a Suncor Motor and it also doesn't respond and I also don't know why.</p> <p>It would be really helpful to debug if I could run a single G-code command just to get the motor running at a speed, and take that out of the equation. it doesn't have to be a command to an "extruder" but just a command to a pin out, like <code>M42 D35 S100</code> (but I don't know the raw command for just testing a motor's connections). </p>

10647

Where did I go wrong by trying to add an extra motor to my board?

<ul> <li><p>I got it to work using a CNC shield. Still haven't figured out the RAMPS 1.4 board.</p></li> <li><p>It doesn't work using D1 and D2 inside Aux-1 because they are used in serial communication to an LCD. So every time you send a command over USB, they get clogged. I ended up using ports 4, 5, and 63 and it works perfectly (no pin mapping needed like in other answer). </p></li> </ul> <pre><code> #define E4_STEP_PIN 4 // D4 #define E4_DIR_PIN 5// D5 #define E4_ENABLE_PIN 63// D63 </code></pre>

2019-07-22T20:16:19.893

|print-quality|ultimaker-cura|pla|troubleshooting|creality-ender-3|

<p>I just recently got an Ender 3 and have been trying to learn the do’s and don’ts. My first model looked like it had under extrusion and stringing, but my second model looks like it has frequent “scratches” along the sides. I printed it with two materials, a white sample PLA that came with, and a black Sunlu PLA.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3G5La.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3G5La.jpg" alt="Print showing lines on side of print"></a></p> <p>I could use some insight on how to improve it, I’m seeking to make some fairly smooth looking models similar to Fat Dragon games.</p>

10656

Models are printing with a scratch on the side

<p>The vertical lines you are referring too are the result of <a href="https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/vibrations-and-ringing/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">ringing or vibration</a>. This is commonly encountered with high print speeds, high acceleration values or if a sudden change in direction takes place.</p> <p>This can be solved by printing slower, decreasing acceleration values and checking for mechanical issues. E.g. the belts may be too flexible (or contain a tension spring) or there may be a loose part somewhere. </p>

2019-07-22T21:46:15.727

|diy-3d-printer|

<p>I would like to know if it is possible to change the rollers for linear rails, just replacing or some calculation should be done and take some precautions.</p> <p>In my case, I have a Core XY DIY printer.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BQFCz.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/BQFCz.jpg" alt="1"></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pWe7H.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/pWe7H.jpg" alt="2"></a></p> <p>I was reading about need to migrate of 8 Bits to 32 Bits, because for get better resolution, results and should be update more things, like add autolevel, etc.</p>

10659

Changes rods for linear rails

<p>I've seen mods for the Hypercube (and Hypercube Evolution) using linear rails (e.g. <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2839395" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this mod</a>), so yes that is possible. You need to redesign a few parts and make sure you have the correct length, but that shouldn't be too difficult.</p>

2019-07-23T21:52:28.887

|troubleshooting|

<p>Recently I have been getting some layer shifting starting at layer one. I have had layer shifting at higher layers due to various reasons but mainly for the belts being too loose. But now I am reading that layer shifting can also be caused by belts being too tight.</p> <p>The <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/Shifted_layers" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RepRap wiki</a> page for layer shifting simply gives the mechanical reason for this as "binding". Can anyone explain what binding means? I thought it meant that the rails were crashing into something but apparently it doesn't. Then I thought it meant that the X and Y axes weren't perfectly perpendicular. </p> <p>Does it mean that the "teeth" of the belts stay "stuck" to the gear for too long when moving in one direction? Why would this happen in one direction and not the other? Because the pulleys/gears are at different heights? Or just because of the belts being tighter? Or one of these reasons?</p> <p>Just trying to understand what its happening so I can debug it for my particular 3D printer. </p>

10669

What is stepper motor binding? (When belts are too tight)

<p>I think the RepRap wiki is using the word "binding", which translates to <em>"stick together or cause to stick together in a single mass"</em> (from Google dictionary), to indicate that some sort of friction is experienced (as you experience when things are sticking together).</p> <p>When there is too much tension in the belt, pulleys and bearings experience a larger radial force stressing the balls of the bearings and pulley shafts. This causes extra friction for the stepper motor to overcome (as the friction force, tangential, is related to the radial force); this means that the stepper has to work harder and can skip steps (for more insight please read below).</p> <hr> <p>While ball bearings are used to <em>reduce</em> friction (opposed to a bush bearing), each ball has a little friction from a couple of sources according to <a href="https://www.amroll.com/friction-frequency-factors.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this reference</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>The sources of this friction are: slight deformation of the rolling elements and raceways under load, sliding friction of the rolling elements against the cage and guiding surfaces. </p> </blockquote> <p>These effects are generally captured in a single friction coefficient called "&mu;". The relation between friction force (tangential) and bearing loading (radial) is written by <span class="math-container">$$P_{friction}=P_{load} \times \mu$$</span> so the higher the belt tension (<span class="math-container">$P_{load}$</span>), the higher the frictional force (<span class="math-container">$P_{friction}$</span>), the harder the stepper has to work.</p>

2019-07-25T01:21:10.733

|print-quality|

<p>See the pictures below. I have a severe under extrusion when the printer starts the outer wall, which is resolved by the time it finishes the outer wall. It starts the layer in the same place every time, so it results in this vertical line, on one side of which is fine (where it finishes the layer) and the other side has bad gaps and the wall is much thinner.</p> <p>In this picture, the problem is on the outer wall (see red outer line, the print head is moving counter clockwise.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CEcrn.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/CEcrn.png" alt="G-Code visualization" /></a></p> <p>And here is the print showing the issue. Just fine on one side, but terrible on the other, precisely where it starts the layer. Strangely, this only occurs on the layers with infill. The top layers seem fine (despite starting in the same place). I have disabled retraction with no effect.</p> <p>Here you can see it start at the tip and get gradually better as it progresses. <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lzzPE.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/lzzPE.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>Here you can see that by the time it finishes, it's just fine, and also what a contrast is between the start and end. That should be a flush edge, there. <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RvFSs.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RvFSs.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>Another view <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5qkZW.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5qkZW.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>Is there some setting that I should be tweaking? I've exhausted my own ideas of different tweaks to no avail.</p> <p>The printer is a Monoprice Maker Select V2. I'm using Ultimaker Cura 4.1.0.</p> <hr /> <ul> <li>Material: PLA</li> <li>Layer height: 0.24 mm (in the pictures, but replicated with 0.16 mm also)</li> <li>Temp: 205 °C, here (but tweaking this hasn't had any effect)</li> <li>Retraction: Disabled</li> </ul> <p>This doesn't happen on layer changes. Although it does line up with the Z seam, you can see from the G-code visualization below that the outer wall is the very last thing it does. The issue occurs at the start of the outer wall (still on the same layer) that it has the issue, but by the time it ends the wall (just before switching layers) it is fine.</p> <p>I've tweaked a few other settings, one by one, and seeing if any have any effect. So far, not really:</p> <ul> <li>Outer Wall Wipe: 0.2 (default), 0.8, 0.0</li> <li>Jerk Control - Wall Jerk max velocity change, 5 mm/s</li> <li>Outer Wall before inner (Yes instead of No)</li> <li>Wall Line Count (3 instead of 2): This improves it some, but I suspect just by making it a little more difficult to see</li> </ul> <h2>What have I done since...</h2> <p>I reset all settings in Cura to a default &quot;Draft&quot; setting and then set layer height to 0.24 mm, and turned off Infill. Then I have tried prints with different settings for &quot;Retract Before Outer Wall&quot; and printing temperature.</p> <p>Here are those results:</p> <p>These pics seem to suggest a very clear lag in extrusion. 1 and 2 are different temps. 2 and 3 are different retraction.</p> <p>205 °C, 0 % Infill, Retract Before Outer Wall: Off <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fX7K1.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/fX7K1.jpg" alt="205 Celsius, 0 Infill, Retract Before Outer Wall: Off" /></a></p> <p>195 °C, 0 % Infill, Retract Before Outer Wall: Off <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dDMOa.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/dDMOa.jpg" alt="195 Celsius, 0 Infill, Retract Before Outer Wall: Off" /></a></p> <p>195 °C, 0 % Infill, Retract Before Outer Wall: On Note: the retraction setting resulted in a noticeable pause before printing the outer wall. Retraction distance is 6.5 mm, and this is not a Bowden fed device. <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DUyRn.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/DUyRn.jpg" alt="195 Celsius, 0 Infill, Retract Before Outer Wall: On" /></a></p> <p>There doesn't seem to be anything strange about the G-code, either. Here are the <code>G0</code> travels just before the outer wall followed by the wall.</p> <pre><code>... G0 F7200 X106.319 Y93.413 G0 X106.26 Y93.909 G0 X107.213 Y93.658 G0 X107.8 Y92.542 G0 X107.286 Y90.844 G0 X107.509 Y90.394 ; (outer wall of outside) G1 F1328 X107.985 Y90.707 E116.98713 G1 X108.38 Y91.128 E117.01098 G1 X108.658 Y91.623 E117.03444 G1 X108.813 Y92.18 E117.05833 G1 X108.832 Y92.751 E117.08193 G1 X108.713 Y93.315 E117.10575 G1 X108.463 Y93.837 E117.12966 ; (first curve complete, on to straightaway) G1 X99.631 Y107.716 E117.80936 G1 X98.912 Y108.59 E117.85612 ... </code></pre> <h2>Even more done...</h2> <p>These are retraction off, and 205 °C</p> <p>If I set the &quot;print speed&quot; in Cura to 20 mm/s (normally 60 mm/s), the outer wall speed is reduced from 30 mm/s to 10 mm/s. The result is quite good. <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MUGcj.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/MUGcj.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>If I leave the &quot;print speed&quot; at 60 mm/s and adjust only the outer wall to 10 mm/s, it's still quite good. <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/m07QN.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/m07QN.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>So it seems like an acceleration thing. If I can figure out how to get it to slow down in just the right spots or compensate in some way, then perhaps I can make this problem go away with minimal sacrifice in total speed.</p>

10680

Under extrusion when starting outer wall

<p>What worked for me was enabling <code>outer wall wipe distance</code> to around 3 mm, that's all that I enabled and it instantly fixed it, no prime amount or anything, just outer wall wipe distance</p>

2019-07-25T02:54:18.877

|fusion360|autodesk|

<p>I have a 3D printer hooked up with Fusion 360. I have a 3D drawing in Revit. What format should I export to in order get from Revit to Fusion 360?</p>

10681

Export Revit file for Fusion 360 3D Print

<p><strong><a href="https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/revit-products/learn-explore/caas/CloudHelp/cloudhelp/2019/ENU/Revit-AddIns/files/GUID-93AE8701-3958-43E9-8D95-0C1650B88061-htm.html" rel="nofollow noreferrer">In Revit</a></strong></p> <p>Use STL Exporter 2019 to customize and export your Revit model to an STL file.</p> <ol> <li>Click Add-in tab -> STL Exporter panel -> STL Exporter.</li> <li>On the General tab, specify your STL file options.</li> <li>On the Categories tab, specify which element categories will export to the STL file.</li> <li>Click Save to create the STL file.</li> </ol> <p><strong><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4zgLqG68E0" rel="nofollow noreferrer">In Fusion 360</a></strong></p> <ol start="5"> <li>Click on a valid project then click the Upload button. Then, click the Select files button and navigate to the STL you wish to import. <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JO4WT.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/JO4WT.png" alt="upload button"></a></li> <li>After selecting the STL file you want to convert, click the Upload button, this time the one in the lower-right corner of the file upload window. Then, the STL file you selected will be imported into Fusion 360. The process can take a few minutes. <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VTBXk.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/VTBXk.png" alt="browse and open"></a></li> </ol>

2019-07-25T08:46:26.333

|pla|heated-bed|petg|creality-ender-5|

<p>I'm printing on an Ender 5 with the default flex/magnetic build surface. I read that PLA and PETG may sometimes be printed without any bed heating at all and also that bed heating is the main contributor to the power consumption of a printer.</p> <p>As I do see that bed heating definitely helps with the first layer adhesion I did not want to turn it off completely, but I did start experimenting with turning off bed heating after all solid bottom layers have printed (using the ChangeAtZ script in Cura) and so far I haven't seen any negative effects, especially no warping (I am usually printing with a brim or raft; I think that might also help in that regard).</p> <p>Am I missing something? Why is <em>anyone</em> keeping the bed heated for an entire print?</p>

10683

Why keep the bed heated after initial layer(s) with PLA (or PETG)?

<p>its up to you do some own test and see how its working for you:</p> <ul> <li>yesterday decrease temp to 50* after some time no issue</li> <li>today decrease temp to 30* some small disform but its keep printing ok</li> <li>also you can add paper glue to bed</li> <li>keep in mind that when temperature decrease bed is moving down due to lost heat</li> <li>if is large print then its stay on bed, small print can detach when decrease temperature</li> </ul> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NlZyA.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/NlZyA.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p>

2019-07-25T18:04:30.363

|marlin|creality-ender-3|firmware|stepper-driver|

<p>I attempted upgrading my Ender 3 firmware to Marlin 1.1.9, and due to inability to find the directions about the Sanguino variant pin layout file, stupidly built with the "standard" (Arduino) file. Various stuff didn't work, and I figured out my mistake and rebuilt, but the extruder motor does not respond even after flashing back to the original firmware.</p> <p>Did I destroy the stepper driver with incorrect pin mapping? (Aside: if so, why just the extruder and not the others?) Is this fixable or should I just order a new motherboard?</p>

10690

Botched firmware upgrade - did I destroy the stepper drivers?

<p>About 15 minutes after posting this, it started working again. Either the driver had badly overheated and recovered after cooling down, or was never messed up and the firmware was just refusing to operate it with the nozzle cold. For the latter possibility, the stock firmware never had that behavior before, but maybe it's possible that some saved configuration to ignore nozzle-cold got lost in the flashing?</p>

2019-07-26T09:06:57.497

|diy-3d-printer|hotend|

<p>I'm trying to verify the correct hotend heater for a Reprap x400 Pro V3. I know a 12&nbsp;V 40&nbsp;W doesn't work. A working heater measures 4.4&nbsp;&ohm;, so I'm guessing it is a 12&nbsp;V 30&nbsp;W heater. </p> <p>When I tried replacing a non-functioning hotend heater on a German Reprap X400 V3 with a new 12V 40W heater that heater also wouldn't heat. My guess is the circuitry shut off due to overcurrent. The thermistor temperature didn't change from room temperature, and the heater was not hot to the touch. Afterward, I plugged in the heater measuring 4.4&nbsp;&ohm; and it worked. </p> <p>The 100k sensors worked properly. A functioning heater resistance measured 4.4&nbsp;&ohm;. The non-functioning heater measured 3.6&nbsp;&ohm;. The new 12&nbsp;V 40&nbsp;W heater measured 2.6&nbsp;&ohm;. Apparently, this model Reprap won't apply power to the heater if the resistance is wrong. I'm assuming this model needs a 12&nbsp;V 30&nbsp;W heater, but am trying to confirm this since I can't find a parts bill of material for this model. Used the following equation to estimate heater resistance (voltage^2)/power = resistance. This gives 4.8&nbsp;&ohm; for 12&nbsp;V 30&nbsp;W and 3.6&nbsp;&ohm; for 12&nbsp;V 40&nbsp;W.</p>

10695

Proper hotend heater for Reprap x400 Pro V3

<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5bOal.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/5bOal.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>The part causing the hot point failure was the connector for the heater and sensor. The connector showed no sign of burns on the heater pins, but the square tubes (see attached image) accommodating pins from the other connector had started to straighten out toward its original sheet metal state due to heating from current. Bending the tubes back in place allowed the connector to work temporarily and confirmed the failure cause. </p> <p>Details: After getting a 12 V 30 W heater, it also didn’t work. The hot point had stopped working because a wire brush had shorted across the heater terminals. Because a spare hot point worked, the failure wasn’t in the circuitry. The spare was a 12 V 30 W heater (from resistance measurements), while the heater on the failing hot point was a 12 V 40 W heater (from resistance measurements). This made me suspect that the heater resistance had shifted, and the circuitry shut off the heater. However, apparently both 12 V 30 W and 12 V 40 W heaters work on RepRap x400 V3. The brief short caused the bent sheet metal of the connector to start straightening back out of the bend. </p>

2019-07-30T19:14:31.660

|3d-models|stl|

<p>I converted the STL file through an online converter <a href="https://www.cadforum.cz/catalog_en/stl2dwg.asp" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.cadforum.cz/catalog_en/stl2dwg.asp</a></p> <p>(I work in the program autocad 2017) Now I open the resulting DXF and I don’t know how to work with it. How do I merge polygons into a whole model?</p>

10724

Getting started with converted STL to DXF

<p>I figured it out. Need to go: Network -> conversion to surface</p> <p>Then we get a surface that is already easy to work with.</p>

2019-07-31T19:08:50.730

|z-probe|bltouch|

<p>I was looking at a BLTouch probe, and saw the recent question about one with intermittent failure. That was kind of scary, where I might spend a bunch of money for something that would make my printer harder to use, rather than easier.</p> <p>But I was curious. I don't have any personal experience using these, but it seems like the probe would only be used during an initial level and when homing the Z axis. Thus, as long as the probe works most of the time, and failure to home properly doesn't damage your nozzle or print bed, maybe this kind of thing isn't too bad.</p> <p>Is this assessment of how the probe functions (that it's not really used after the start of a print) accurate?</p> <p>In the spirit of stack exchange, I'm not interested in the subjective issue of nozzle or print bed damage; I'm only asking about the objective assessment of how a probe is used by the printer.</p>

10728

Is a BLTouch probe used during a print after the first layer?

<p>Your assessment is correct, after probing before printing it deploys several times, after that it is stowed till the end of the print unless you call for deployment.</p> <hr> <p>The probe is used by G-code command <code>G29</code>; <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G29:_Detailed_Z-Probe" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this command</a> is used by a few printer firmwares to perform a bed probing sequence where, depending on the options set in the firmware, the surface of the bed is scanned by deploying the sensor at various locations. From these measurements, the firmware will determine the shape or tilt of the bed to compensate for deviations in Z height during the first couple of layers or millimeters of the print. Basically, it will keep your nozzle (approximately, as it is based on calculations) at the same distance all over the bed area.</p> <p>Once the print starts after the <code>G29</code> command, the sensor is stowed until the next print calls the <code>G29</code> command (or <code>M280</code> with arguments to deploy on Marlin/Duet/Smoothieware, or <code>M340</code> on Repetier firmware).</p>

2019-08-01T13:28:42.133

|print-quality|creality-ender-3|

<p>I was having some issues with printing, most noticeably in this picture:</p> <p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/oCKwkBj.jpg" alt="Noticeable layers in print" title="Noticeable layers in print" /></p> <p>The layers are very noticeable and sometimes have gaps, and the overhangs don't print very well (although the former is more of an issue). I just calibrated my E-steps so I don't think that is the issue. It was doing the same thing before I upgraded anything (i.e., I had issues on stock hardware).</p> <p>My printer is an Ender 3 with the metal extruder upgrade (which replaces the plastic parts as seen <a href="https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07B96QMN2" rel="nofollow noreferrer" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>), an E3D v6, printed fan duct (Bullseye), glass bed, BLTouch, and vanilla Marlin. Pictures of it are also in the below album. The printed upgrades were printed on a Prusa MK3S and don't have the same issue.</p> <p>I am using Hatchbox 1.75 mm gray PLA, printed at 215 °C with my bed at 60 °C. I am using Ultimaker Cura 4.1 but was also having the problems on an older version of Ultimaker Cura (maybe 3.6, but I can't remember which it was). The problems also existed with some Hatchbox 1.75 mm black PLA but I used the same roll on my Prusa MK3S without any issues, so I'm not sure if filament could be the cause (although it is a different printer so it's still a possibility).</p> <p>I have tried at different printing speeds and the problem still persists.</p> <p>I also recently tried varying the temperature during printing (first up to 222 °C then down to 200 °C) with no noticeable difference.</p> <p>Extra pictures <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mgsiC.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>.</p> <p>Model is part of <a href="https://www.printablescenery.com/product/sorcerers-tower/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Printable Scenery's sorcerer tower</a>.</p>

10738

Inconsistent Layer Issues

<p>The main issue here (the gaps between layers) was solved by reducing combing.</p> <p>Combing was enabled without a limit on the range so a max combing distance of 10&nbsp;mm was introduced. This prevented too much filament from oozing out during travels.</p> <p>The oozing filament was causing nothing to come out of the nozzle at the beginning of an extrusion, thus creating the gaps that were consistent in location.</p>

2019-08-02T06:19:05.233

|filament|metal-parts|

<p>I came across a new Steel infused PLA from <a href="https://colorfabb.com/steelfill" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Colorfabb</a>. On the store page someone had asked, what happens if it was exposed to water, would it rust. I am actually, not sure what would happen. I am interested what the effects of leaving in the elements a 3D printed object made of the 2 most common type of fused materials. </p> <ol> <li>Wood Infill</li> <li>Metal Infill (not stainless steel)</li> </ol> <p>Would it be preserved by the PLA coating it, or would, over time, rust and dissolve? Would the wood last forever, or will the print get discolored and become mulch? </p>

10742

What are the effects of the elements on 3D printed objects made with "infused" PLA

<p>The particles on the outmost part of the print which are exposed to air will rust. The ones inside will still be protected somewhat by the PLA. The rust color/effect is part of the idea, since it give certain prints an old look.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3d0ke.jpg" rel="noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/3d0ke.jpg" alt="ProtoPasta Iron-Filled Metal Composite PLA"></a></p> <p><a href="https://www.proto-pasta.com/products/magnetic-iron-pla" rel="noreferrer">https://www.proto-pasta.com/products/magnetic-iron-pla</a></p>

2019-08-04T22:26:06.673

|pla|extruder|bowden|retraction|creality-ender-5|

<p>I have an Ender 5 with an aluminum extruder that was printing beautifully for a few days after building it. I received a Capricorn bowden tube and new couplings as a gift, and replaced those, and now I have stringing issues I can't solve. </p> <p>I've been all over the map with settings (temps, speeds, z-hop, retraction, etc. etc.), I've swapped the tubes, the couplings, the filament, I've checked for clogs, and put clamps on the collars, but no matter what I do, the tube shifts in and out during retractions by about .25 - .5 mm. I suspect that has something to do with the stringing, as nothing else has solved it. </p> <p>Any suggestions are appreciated. I haven't made adjustments to the extruder, but I don't know if that's possible or necessary. I've never had a system using the bowden, so that part of 3d printing is new to me. I'm using 3d Solutech PLA.</p>

10754

Ender 5: Bowden tube shifts in/out of extruder during retractions

<p>If it's just the pressure fitting on the brass coupler that shifts in/out, or the PTFE tube shifting slightly in/out but remaining in the coupler, that shouldn't be a problem unless it's so loose it can come out entirely. The blue clips which should have come with the printer are intended to stop this motion or at least provide enough pressure to prevent it from falling all the way out.</p> <p>Regarding the small 0.25 - 0.5 mm of play, effectively it just means you lose that much length from your retractions, since part of the retraction goes into pulling the tube back into the coupler. When the retraction is reversed, the effective filament position should go back to what it was before the retraction. As long as your retraction amount is sufficient after the loss, it should not cause stringing.</p> <p>You probably need to look for another cause of your stringing.</p>

2019-08-06T15:12:19.663

|filament|print-material|material|filament-choice|

<p>In some situations it useful to have a material in which air passes but water, and water vapor, does not. Printing cell membranes or cases for something that must be immune to humidity changes (like something that holds a highly oxidative metal) are two examples. </p> <p><strong>Teflon</strong> (PTFE) is a material that has this property. But PTFE is horrendous to 3D print.</p> <p><strong>Silicone</strong> is another material that has this property. 3D printing silicone can be done with a syringe mechanism. But there are also thermoplastic rubbers (e.g. TPU, TPE) that are designed to mimic Silicone.</p> <p>Are there any filaments on the market which naturally form holes with the porous diameter for this feature? Is there any way to manipulate the diameter of this hole, even starting from pellets? Are some filaments more likely than others to have this feature?</p>

10762

What filaments allow air to pass but not water vapor?

<p>It is difficult enough to make 3D-printed objects water-tight (unless you paint them). Making them permeable to air but not water vapour is too big an ask, I think.</p>

2019-08-06T20:01:09.120

|electronics|

<p>Going from 12V electronics to 24V produces a reduction in the overall amount of heat generated in the electronics (that are not intended to get hot). These include the motors, drivers, mosfets and pcb traces.</p> <p>Why then given that 48V power supplies and electronic components cost exactly the same as their 24v counterparts, are there no 48V 3d printers?</p> <p>Is there a saftey aspect to 48V that needs to be considered? </p> <p>EDIT: Yes 48V fans cost a little more but it's not exorbitant. It seems odd to move from 12 to 24 to get half as much heat, when you could move from 12 to 48v and get a quarter as much heat.</p>

10765

Can 3d printers be operated at voltages above 24 volts?

<p>I believe the main issue is the voltage regulators and capacitors on your standard print main board are not rated for 48V. You can find some CNC shields that can handle up to 36V but these are lacking 3d printer features such as heater ports and only have 4 stepper slots. </p>

2019-08-07T01:33:39.507

|creality-ender-3|acceleration|layer-shifting|

<p>Recently my Ender 3 has developed a problem of skipping Y steps (layer shift in the Y direction), and it seems to be getting progressively worse. I'd never experienced layer shift before a few weeks ago when I tried some extreme accelerations (up to 3000 mm/s²), which mostly worked fine, but I stopped after getting a couple layer shifts, and now have X acceleration at 2000 mm/s² and Y acceleration back at the default of 500 mm/s².</p> <p>When the layer shifts happen, I usually hear "grinding" sounds that seem like they're coming from friction of the nozzle moving over the already-deposited material. Bed leveling/height is correct though.</p> <p>Magnitude of the layer shifts varies between 1 mm and 3 mm. They're all in the positive direction (layers shifts towards the back of the bed).</p> <p>Speeds are reasonable, 30 mm/s for outer walls, 60 mm/s for inner and infill, 120 mm/s for travel.</p> <p>Is there a likely mechanical or electrical cause for the onset of skipped steps/layer shift?</p> <p>Is it possible that the high X acceleration is what's allowing the very high travel speed to be achieved, and that such high travel speed is putting the nozzle on top of cold material that it drags on without giving it a chance to soften it first? Or is the printer underpowered such that there's insufficient current to provide the necessary Y motor torque while the X is under high acceleration? Lowering the X acceleration back to default (500 mm/s²) does seem to make it less likely or less severe, but it's still happening.</p>

10768

Ender 3 has developed a tendancy to skip Y steps

<p>While I first experienced layer shifts a couple times before upgrading, only while using <em>extreme</em> acceleration settings (3000 mm/s² is fairly extreme for moving the bed), their regular occurrance, which is near-constant with some files, seems to have started after I upgraded the firmware to Marlin 1.1.9. Reverting to the manufacturer's firmware, with no mechanical changes to the printer whatsoever, has the same file printing now with no layer shifts. So I think it's safe to say that this is a firmware problem - either a bug in Marlin, or a problem with the Ender 3 configuration headers for it. The bug tracker suggests this kind of thing is an ongoing issue; here are two among a <strong>large</strong> number of related bug tracker threads:</p> <ul> <li><a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/9768" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/9768</a></li> <li><a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/10446" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/10446</a></li> </ul> <p>I'll try the latest 2.0.x, and/or turning features off one at a time in 1.1.9, and see if I can isolate the cause, then open a new question about bugs in Marlin causing layer shifts if needed.</p>

2019-08-07T23:16:14.850

|marlin|creality-ender-3|firmware|layer-shifting|

<p>Since upgrading from the manufacturer's firmare to recent Marlin (first 1.1.9, then 2.0.x git HEAD), I've been having significant model-dependent (didn't happen for first few things I tried to print; other prints reproduce it reliably) layer shifting on the Y axis. It's always in the positive Y direction, usually by 1-3 mm at a time.</p> <p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Xdkv.jpg" alt="aborted prints showing layer shifts"></p> <p>I first suspected mechanical problems (see: <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/q/10768/11157">Ender 3 has developed a tendancy to skip Y steps</a>), but reverting the firmware confirmed that it's a firmware problem.</p> <p>A number of bug tracker entries for Marlin indicate that there are significant ongoing layer shift problems:</p> <ul> <li><a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/9768" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/9768</a></li> <li><a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/10446" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/10446</a></li> <li><a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12403" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12403</a></li> </ul> <p>But most end up getting closed. Some people say reverting to 1.1.9 from 2.0.x helped; others say 1.1.9 is EOL and to use 2.0.x. Is there a solution? How do I get a working version of Marlin (new enough to have Linear Advance 1.5, which was my motivation for upgrading) on Ender 3?</p>

10772

Y-axis layer shifts with recent Marlin on Ender 3

<p>Buried in a bug tracker entry for a seemingly unrelated issue, I found what seems to be the solution:</p> <blockquote> <p>@johanmga, I've discovered the velocity jumps here come from using "classic jerk" computations, and happen whether or not s-curve acceleration is enabled.</p> <p>Try uncommenting <code>//#define JUNCTION_DEVIATION</code> in Configuration_adv.h; that will disable classic jerk and use the junction deviation math instead.</p> <p>Also for reference, issue #12403 is actively tracking the layer shift issue (please comment there too if you have more information on problems/solutions), and #12540 is has more information on classic jerk vs. junction deviation.</p> </blockquote> <p><a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12491#issuecomment-443464603" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12491#issuecomment-443464603</a></p> <p>It seems that the "classic jerk" code no longer works and produces erroneous motion to the steppers under some conditions (dependent on G-code contents), whereas the Ender 3 default configuration file is still using it.</p> <p>With the default <code>JUNCTION_DEVIATION_MM</code> of 0.02, things worked right away, but printing was so slow that I could plausibly attribute it working just to the slowness. But increasing it up to 0.1 via the menus got the speed closer to what I'm used to, and it's still printing with no layer shifts.</p> <p>I've posted my results in the tracker in hopes that they'll lead to discovery of the root cause: <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12403#issuecomment-519305409" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12403#issuecomment-519305409</a></p> <p>Another issue on the tracker seems to have more detail:</p> <p><a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12540#issuecomment-442793326" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12540#issuecomment-442793326</a></p>

2019-08-11T11:17:25.210

|print-quality|pla|creality-ender-3|

<p>I just got my first 3D printer (Creality Ender 3) on Friday, 2 days ago. It works great, but for some reason I'm getting a lot of stringing on my prints, especially the ones where the extruder head has to move a long distance between columns/posts, etc.</p> <p>I'm using Hatchbox "True White" PLA, which has a recommended temperature range of 180-210&nbsp;&deg;C. I've tried printing at 200, 190, and 185&nbsp;&deg;C and didn't see much improvement. I've also made sure I've enabled the 'retract' setting in the slicer (4.5&nbsp;mm) and verified the printer is retracting when it should.</p> <p>I'm not sure what else I can try... any suggestions?</p>

10785

How to fight lots of stringing with PLA at low temperature (185 °C)?

<p>The way to optimise retraction is to use <a href="http://retractioncalibration.com/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">this retraction optimisation tool</a>, which tests various retraction distances and speeds.</p> <p>Remember to perform this calibration AFTER you set pressure or linear advance, which has a higher priority.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4D6Gr.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4D6Gr.jpg" alt="enter image description here" /></a></p> <p>You will be able to pick the settings which work the best for that filament brand and type. You will have to do it again if you switch material or brand.</p>

2019-08-11T20:18:15.967

|3d-design|fusion360|autodesk|

<p>I heard about the certification program from <a href="https://academy.autodesk.com/about-us/certification" rel="nofollow noreferrer">autodesk website</a>.</p> <p>How can I prepare and write this certification exam as a student? I already started using fusion 360 about a month.</p>

10792

How can I become a certified Fusion 360 user?

<p>Start with registering at their <a href="https://academy.autodesk.com/about-us/certification" rel="nofollow noreferrer">website</a> and go from there. There is a <a href="https://adsk-designacademy-content-live.s3.amazonaws.com/ACU_Fusion%20360_Exam%20Objectives.pdf" rel="nofollow noreferrer">PDF</a> of a list of things you have to have mastery in:</p> <blockquote> <ul> <li><p>SKETCHING</p> <ul> <li><p>Sketch Creation</p></li> <li><p>Create Dimensions</p></li> <li><p>Constraint selection and creation</p></li> <li><p>Edit a sketch</p></li> <li><p>Project Edges</p></li> <li><p>Edit a Sketch</p></li> </ul></li> <li><p>DRAWING</p> <ul> <li><p>Creating a Drawing View, Base, Projected, Section, Detail</p></li> <li><p>Add Annotations</p></li> <li><p>Editing a Created View</p></li> <li><p>Edit Border and Titleblock</p></li> </ul></li> <li><p>SCULPT</p> <ul> <li><p>Create a Form</p></li> <li><p>Edit a Form</p></li> <li><p>Thicken a Form</p></li> </ul></li> <li><p>DIRECT MODELING</p> <ul> <li><p>Feature Deletion</p></li> <li><p>Press &amp; Pull Tool</p></li> </ul></li> <li><p>ASSEMBLY MODELING</p> <ul> <li><p>Create and Manage Top Level Assembly and Subassemblies</p></li> <li><p>Create a Component From a Body</p></li> <li><p>Align and Assembly Joints</p></li> <li><p>Interference</p></li> <li><p>Rigid Groups</p></li> <li><p>Motion Studies</p></li> </ul></li> <li><p>ADVANCED MODELING</p> <ul> <li><p>Sweep and Loft</p></li> <li><p>Boundary Fill</p></li> <li><p>Split and Combine bodies</p></li> </ul></li> <li><p>PART MODELING</p> <ul> <li><p>Create extrude features</p></li> <li><p>Apply Fillets and Chamfers</p></li> <li><p>Create complex hole features</p></li> <li><p>Create revolve features</p></li> <li><p>Create a pattern of features</p></li> <li><p>Create a shell feature</p></li> <li><p>Create Construction Planes and Axes</p></li> <li><p>Inspect command; measure, and section analysis</p></li> </ul></li> </ul> </blockquote>

2019-08-12T12:03:33.250

|z-axis|creality-cr-10|

<h2>Problem</h2> <p>My CR-10 printer seems to be trying to print the model 4 or 5 layers too low. This means that for the first few layers, the printing nozzle is forced against the bed, preventing extrusion until the print reaches higher layers.</p> <h2>Outcome</h2> <p>This results in the bottom part of the print having the internal structure visible and the printing head deteriorating. I had to remove the old nozzle because it was clogged up with what I believe to be some residue that was picked up during preceding prints.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mUfsT.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/mUfsT.jpg" alt="A print showing the structure inside the model because of missing layers"></a> <em>note: On this print, the top part is almost-well printed. It cannot be seen in pictures, but I say "almost" because the well-printed part is still much thinner than expected. This is the result of my purposeful mis-leveling the bed so that the part where the printer "homes" is higher than the lower part. I did this to see if there was any obvious bending of the printing bed. Doesn't look like there is.</em></p> <h2>Fix attempts</h2> <ul> <li>I have tried to re-level the bed multiple times, but it doesn't matter as the "too low" effect is independent from the location on the bed.</li> <li>I have tried using the printer's built-in Z-offset but to no avail. This might be due to the fact that I control the print through Ultimaker Cura 4, so I tried looking for the Z-offset property in Ultimaker Cura and even though internet says it exists, I failed to find it.</li> </ul> <h2>History</h2> <p>The printer used to work perfectly well and I do not remember having changed anything before the problem arose. I recently changed the nozzle and made sure to tighten it as high as possible but the Z-offset problem still persists.</p>

10798

Printer head too low when printing

<p>TLDR; Make sure the bed isn't too high, the z-axis should reach the end-of-rail indicator without forcing against the bed</p> <hr> <p>So it appears I simply misunderstood (or mis-assumed) the way my printer works.</p> <p>For some reason I believed that it was the printing head, while auto-homeing, that was defining the "point zero" for the z axis. Didn't realize, even after disassembled the whole head block, that there was no such mechanism built in.</p> <p>While zeroing it before starting my on-going print I noticed the "click" of the end-of-rail switch for the z-axis while the head was forcing against the bed, desperately trying to reach that damn switch. Then it all clicked together ...</p> <h2>What happened:</h2> <p>For some reason a few weeks ago I decided to level the bed by raising the z-axis by spinning the its driving wheel <em>by hand</em>, taking it very far from the end-of-rail stopper. Ever since then I've been leveling the bed this way, not realizing I was preventing the head from reaching end-of-rail without having to force against the bed.</p> <p>So yeah, just took the bed as far down as possible, made the printer auto-home and leveled the bed from there, as it should be done, and my print is now going very well.</p>

2019-08-12T18:03:16.770

|ultimaker-cura|pla|g-code|

<p>I am trying to print a <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2755765" rel="nofollow noreferrer">12 hole Ocarina</a> I found on thingiverse. When printing I have to stop it around 25-30 layers because the edge of the shell is higher then the infill. </p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kMrn5.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kMrn5.jpg" alt="Example 1"></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PVHAO.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/PVHAO.jpg" alt="Example 2"></a></p> <p><a href="https://www.codepile.net/pile/Z0Y3v986" rel="nofollow noreferrer">G-Code of first 30 layers</a></p> <p>I tried changing the infill, wall size, speed and retraction settings to no avail. The settings of the example print were:</p> <ul> <li>100% infill</li> <li>0.2mm layer height</li> <li>40mm printing speed (average)</li> <li>1mm shell thickness (results in 2 layers)</li> <li>Automatic infill patern</li> <li>Printed at 210C with 3mm PLA (<a href="https://www.conrad.nl/p/renkforce-pla300h1-filament-pla-kunststof-3-mm-grijs-1-kg-1093147" rel="nofollow noreferrer">like this one</a>)</li> <li>Printed on a RF1000</li> <li>Sliced with CuraEngine in Repetier-host V2.1.6.</li> </ul> <p>Does anyone know what might cause this and how I can prevent it from happening?</p> <p>Any help is greatly appreciated! :)</p>

10799

Raised shell edges on ocarina print. RF1000 sliced with Cura Engine

<p>I think the solution in your self-answer is just a partial mitigation for an underlying problem, and your expectations for output quality are way too low.</p> <p>From the pictures in the question, there's serious overextrusion and stringing going on. The stringing could be caused by a secondary problem (bad/insufficient retraction settings), but heavy overextrusion will cause there to be extreme residual pressure left between the extruder gear and the nozzle (especially in a bowden setup, though it's not clear what printer you're using or if it has a bowden tube) that retraction will be unlikely to sufficiently relieve, so it's also a characteristic consequence of overextrusion.</p> <p>As Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2 noted in a comment, having the filament diameter set to 1.75 mm while your printer actually uses 3 mm filament could cause this. Cura (especially CuraEngine invoked via command line rather than the GUI) is particularly bad about getting this wrong if you don't pass the options in exactly the right way.</p> <p>Note that lowering the infill percentage as you did would help get <em>somewhat</em> decent results with serious overextrusion, since the excess material has somewhere to go (into the unfilled part of the infill region). But you'll still be getting really bad (what I would call unacceptably bad) prints compared to what you could/should get.</p>

2019-08-19T10:04:58.590

|stl|openscad|

<p>I've tried to remix this model: <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:90933" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:90933</a> (Bauhaus chess set) by scaling it down and inserting little magnet holes into the pieces' underside. My SCAD file looks as follows:</p> <pre><code>difference() { scale([0.5,0.5,0.5]) import("Bauhaus2Set.stl"); translate([ 6, 11 ,0]) cylinder(h=20.5,r=2.5,center=true,$fn=20); // WTH? // King/Queen translate([ 6, 11 ,0]) cylinder(h=3.5,r=2.5,center=true,<span class="math-container">$fn=20); translate([-6, 11 ,0]) cylinder(h=3.5,r=2.5,center=true,$</span>fn=20); // Rooks translate([ 6,-11.5,0]) cylinder(h=3.5,r=2.5,center=true,<span class="math-container">$fn=20); translate([-6,-11.5,0]) cylinder(h=3.5,r=2.5,center=true,$</span>fn=20); [...] </code></pre> <p>Note the third line with "WTH?" - I've done quite some trial-and-error, and if I remove that line, then I don't get any subtracted holes anymore when I render the whole thing (F6). In preview (F5), the holes are always present, but in the final render, I need to include the larger subtracted cylinder or it won't work.</p> <p>The STL file seems to be fine in itself, what's going on here?</p>

10820

OpenSCAD weirdness with imported STL

<p>I see you've accepted cmm's answer, but I'd still like to take a stab at the mechanism of the failure based on your comment on it:</p> <blockquote> <p>Excellent explanation, thanks. The "WTH" cylinder is centered on the queen piece, and that has a sphere with lots of faces on top. So it looks like the "kink" is inside the queen where the sphere and the base cube overlap, and by accident, my trial-and-error removing of cylinders also removed just the right spot.</p> </blockquote> <p>My guess is that if you look at the triangle set of the STL file, you'll find the interior of the queen contains the parts of the cube that are inside the sphere and the parts of the sphere that are inside the cube; they may not even be clipped to meet each other properly where they cross each other's surfaces. Sadly there are lots of tools producing invalid STL files like this. The longer cylinder is probaly sufficient to overlap with where the cube and sphere cross, forcing OpenSCAD to break down the model in that region and recompute the mesh where the components overlap. Without that recomputation, the differences likely end up interacting with just the "sphere part" of the STL mesh.</p> <p>This explanation also seems to be consistent with the description of the thing on thingiverse:</p> <blockquote> <p>I much preferred the style of Bauhaus set that TeamTeaUSA's designed, but there was a lot of fiddling with the queen and the knight wouldn't print without supports. So I nestled the queen's sphere further into the body so it would print standing up, added supports for the knight and plated the whole thing.</p> </blockquote> <p>where it looks like the creator took someone else's STL files and moved parts around to create an overlap, likely without proper tooling that could regenerate a valid mesh.</p>

2019-08-20T13:23:04.320

|delta|

<p>I've had my anycubic kossel for a good while now, and whenever I print something, it seems like it falls out of calibration very quickly. The biggest example is that the prints tend to scale up as the print progresses, or maybe the print starts to drift, and comes out slanted. This seems to never happen in any similarly priced XYZ printers. Why is this? Do XYZ printers just have an inherent advantage over deltas? Perhaps Deltas have some precision loss?</p>

10825

Why are delta bots so finicky?

<p>user77232's points are valid but I have done several things to mitigate these issues on my Anycubic Deltas. </p> <p>First, both of my deltas have linear slide bearings. If your's has the bearing trucks that run in the extrusion slots this will lead to less precise operation and also is a source of wear over time. </p> <p>Second, be sure that the end stop micro switches are positioned precisely and that their fasteners are tight. You may also want to use a mild strength Loctite on their fasteners. When operated at high extrusion rates all components are subject to significant vibration.</p> <p>Third, I found that the universal joints are also a significant source of play. I remedied this to some degree by placing rubber bands across the arms at both ends so that the play was minimized. The rubber bands should be wrapped fairly tightly to perform this function. </p> <p>Forth, I try to tune the belt tension so that all of the belts have the same note when plucked. There are smart phone apps that will help do this. I believe that one that I use is from Gates, a premium manufacturer of drive belts. Also, over time belts stretch so you will need to retension them periodically.</p> <p>Fifth, run through the firmware calibration process regularly for both positional accuracy and for filament extrusion and retraction variables.</p> <p>I don't use my deltas much any more since purchasing a popular XYZ type printer but it cost me three times what they did and it still has issues from time to time.</p>

2019-08-21T18:12:22.117

|ramps-1.4|electronics|ramps|ramps-1.6|

<p>During the assembly of my printer, I accidentally shorted the RAMPS 1.4 board, looking for a replacement I found the RAMPS 1.6 which would eliminate the need for a MOSFET power module.</p> <p>My question is, could I simply replace the RAMPS 1.4 for the 1.6 or should I make any other modification?</p> <p>My printer is a Prusa i3 Graber Clone running Marlin</p>

10835

Replacing RAMPS 1.4 for 1.6

<p>RAMPS 1.6 is very similar to RAMPS 1.4. Most, if not all, of the changes are hardware improvements, without making the core functionality different. Looking at the incremental changes between versions:</p> <p>To quote from RepRapWiki: <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.5" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RAMPS 1.5</a></p> <blockquote> <p>The RAMPS 1.5 is a variation of the popular RAMPS boards that, like all other RAMPS boards, is plugged into an Arduino Mega for operation. The layout of the RAMPS 1.5 is virtually identical to that of the RAMPS 1.4. The only real difference between the two are the MOSFETs and the fuses.</p> </blockquote> <p>To quote from RepRapWiki: <a href="https://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.6" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RAMPS 1.6</a></p> <blockquote> <p>The RAMPS 1.6 is the second RAMPS iteration released by BIQU/BIGTREETECH. It replaces the original green power connector with a pair of screw terminals, adds a larger heatsink over the MOSFETS, and has a larger bed MOSFET. It maintains the surface-mounted fuses and flush MOSFETS of the RAMPS 1.5.</p> <p>Also, the positions of the D1 and D2 diodes have been swapped from the positions in RAMPS 1.4, the D1 diode is now the diode closest to fuse F2. The same is true for RAMPS 1.5, also manufactured by BIQU/BIGTREETECH.</p> </blockquote> <p>So, in short, yes, the RAMPS 1.6 <em>should</em> be a direct plug in replacement for the RAMPS 1.4.</p> <p>That said, you <em>may</em> be able to salvage your RAMPS 1.4, if you can locate the part that has given up the &quot;magic smoke&quot;. It could just be a blown capacitor, or diode. There have been <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/search?q=RAMPS">a number of questions</a> relating to that, so it might be worth searching for answers here, on SE.3DP¹.</p> <p>It is probably also worth reading <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5623/ramps-1-4-1-5-or-1-6">RAMPS 1.4, 1.5 or 1.6?</a></p> <hr /> <h3>Additional links</h3> <p>An interesting video, where a variety of RAMPS 1.4 boards are compared, is the first of a series, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pWdm_KwDvd4" rel="nofollow noreferrer">RAMPS series 1 of 5 - Intro and board comparisons</a> - although beware the loud music...</p> <p>There is also a RAMPS 1.6 Plus, and a RAMPS 1.4.2 which might be worth considering. I wrote up about these, briefly, <em>(disclosure) in my personal blog</em>, a couple of years ago: <a href="https://gr33nonline.wordpress.com/2016/11/16/3d-printer-control-boards/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">3D Printer control boards</a>.</p> <hr /> <h3>Footnote</h3> <p>¹ Such as <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3417/how-drastic-is-reversing-the-polarity-of-the-power-supply-to-a-ramps-board">How drastic is reversing the polarity of the power supply to a RAMPS board?</a>, which might be relevant in your case.</p>

2019-08-22T15:09:10.833

|ultimaker-cura|slicing|troubleshooting|

<p>I'm trying to print a supporting base which will house the spindle for an electrostatic rotor. It's basically just a truncated cone with a hole down it's center to house the spindle.</p> <p>For reasons that I cannot fathom, Ultimaker Cura keeps on adding an unrequested top/bottom layer (color-coded yellow in the screenshots) inside this hole, so instead of a single hollow cylinder of 10&nbsp;mm depth, the result is a hole only a few millimeters deep with another hollow cylinder behind it.</p> <p>Here is the intended model, note the open space for the hole at the top.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tUdBC.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tUdBC.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>Here is the inner view of the hole being printed as expected:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kXV5x.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/kXV5x.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>Finally, here is a layer view of the print a few millimeters from the final top layer with the unrequested top/bottom layer that covers the spindle hole:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yd8mn.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yd8mn.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>The STL file is on <a href="https://github.com/gearoid-murphy/3dprints/blob/master/spindle.stl" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Github</a> (with a built-in viewer).</p> <p>Can anyone help me understand why this is happening?</p>

10839

Ultimaker Cura is adding redundant top/bottom layers

<p>I had the same issue exporting from Sketchup to STL. I imported my STL to Tinkercad and then exported it again and it resolved my issue.</p> <p>Tinkercad is a free and online tool.</p>

2019-08-22T16:07:37.677

|3d-models|petg|food|

<p>I want to print a lemon squeezer and I would prefer to use PET-G. I don't know if it is safe to use, because lemons contain lots of citric acid. Does it dissolve PETG? I haven't found an answer anywhere on the Internet. There are generally few things that dissolve PETG. These are aromatic compounds like toluene, phenol etc.</p> <p>I know my model will be food safe, as PETG is food safe, I'm using one without a dye and my nozzle is made out of steel, not brass. I think bacteria growth inside little gaps/between layers is impossible, because the citric acid is quite strong and will kill nearly all of the germs.</p>

10840

Does acid dissolve PETG 3D prints?

<p>The PETG is food safe (plastic water bottles are made of them), however the colour additives may not be a) stable, or b) food safe. If you are going to make a lemon squeezer then I would suggest that you use a virgin material that is just pet-g with no additives.</p> <p>However, you could only ever use it one. Any food particles that get stuck in between the fine layers of the printed part, will cause bacterial growth. If the walls are porous then the juice can get inside of the part and create a breathing ground.</p>

2019-08-23T02:21:14.880

|marlin|

<p>Is there a command to show the compile date and time of the Marlin 2.0 firmware? Also, is there a way to show this info at boot up?</p>

10844

Show Build date and time in Marlin 2.0

<p>You can show the compile date and time during bootup by changing the constant STRING_SPLASH_LINE2 in Configuration.h:</p> <pre><code>#define STRING_SPLASH_LINE2 __DATE__ " " __TIME__ </code></pre>

2019-08-23T09:46:58.777

|3d-models|

<p>I'm trying to make a water insulated 1&nbsp;cm³ (1&nbsp;ml) transparent container and I bought some plexiglass, I cut and glued some pieces together but it looks really crappy and barely holds the water in. I was wondering, is there a transparent material (similar to plexiglass) that can order to 3D print the container out of it? Also, if 3D printing is not the best option, where can I order around a 100 pieces of 1&nbsp;cm³ transparent water insulating containers with caps?</p>

10847

Can I order a 3D print of a 1 ml transparent container?

<p>You could order an sla or dlp printed part(which would probably be more expensive, but also quite durable and a little more transparent). Or you could order an fdm printed T-glase print, which would come out pretty clear and not be quite as strong as sla, but still pretty good for holding water.</p>

2019-08-23T14:04:14.797

|creality-ender-3|repetier|

<p>Trying to set up Repetier host for Ender 3 on Debian.</p> <p>The <code>/dev/ttyUSBx</code> is found via <code>dmesg</code>, this value goes in <strong>config -> printer settings -> port</strong>.</p> <p>Printer connects fine, but commands do not send. Status reads </p> <pre><code>xx commands waiting. </code></pre> <p>I have tried all the various baud rate settings &lt;= 250k to no avail. </p> <p>Is there something else I should be trying, or what is the correct baud rate to set?</p> <p><code>dmesg</code>:</p> <pre><code>[2828465.418249] usb 1-13: USB disconnect, device number 77 [2828465.418480] ftdi_sio ttyUSB0: FTDI USB Serial Device converter now disconnected from ttyUSB0 [2828465.418492] ftdi_sio 1-13:1.0: device disconnected [2828469.171168] usb 1-13: new full-speed USB device number 82 using xhci_hcd [2828469.329014] usb 1-13: New USB device found, idVendor=0403, idProduct=6001, bcdDevice= 6.00 [2828469.329017] usb 1-13: New USB device strings: Mfr=1, Product=2, SerialNumber=3 [2828469.329018] usb 1-13: Product: FT232R USB UART [2828469.329020] usb 1-13: Manufacturer: FTDI [2828469.329021] usb 1-13: SerialNumber: A107MDUQ [2828469.332455] ftdi_sio 1-13:1.0: FTDI USB Serial Device converter detected [2828469.332485] usb 1-13: Detected FT232RL [2828469.332756] usb 1-13: FTDI USB Serial Device converter now attached to ttyUSB0 </code></pre> <p><code>lsusb</code>:</p> <pre><code>Bus 004 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0003 Linux Foundation 3.0 root hub Bus 003 Device 003: ID 0a5c:21e8 Broadcom Corp. BCM20702A0 Bluetooth 4.0 Bus 003 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub Bus 002 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0003 Linux Foundation 3.0 root hub Bus 001 Device 081: ID 18d1:4ee1 Google Inc. Nexus Device (MTP) Bus 001 Device 002: ID 1b1c:1b45 Corsair Bus 001 Device 046: ID 1b1c:1b50 Corsair Bus 001 Device 049: ID 14cd:1212 Super Top microSD card reader (SY-T18) Bus 001 Device 082: ID 0403:6001 Future Technology Devices International, Ltd FT232 Serial (UART) IC Bus 001 Device 060: ID 1908:0226 GEMBIRD Bus 001 Device 059: ID 046d:c52b Logitech, Inc. Unifying Receiver Bus 001 Device 058: ID 05e3:0610 Genesys Logic, Inc. 4-port hub Bus 001 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub </code></pre> <p><code>usb-devices</code>:</p> <pre><code>T: Bus=01 Lev=01 Prnt=01 Port=12 Cnt=02 Dev#= 82 Spd=12 MxCh= 0 D: Ver= 2.00 Cls=00(&gt;ifc ) Sub=00 Prot=00 MxPS= 8 #Cfgs= 1 P: Vendor=0403 ProdID=6001 Rev=06.00 S: Manufacturer=FTDI S: Product=FT232R USB UART S: SerialNumber=A107MDUQ C: #Ifs= 1 Cfg#= 1 Atr=a0 MxPwr=90mA I: If#=0x0 Alt= 0 #EPs= 2 Cls=ff(vend.) Sub=ff Prot=ff Driver=ftdi_sio </code></pre>

10853

Baud rate for Ender 3 on Repetier Host (Debian)

<p>Your firmware configuration may vary (probably worth checking what you have set), but from <a href="https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12174" rel="nofollow noreferrer">The Ender 3 configuration is set to 115200 baud rate #12174</a>, the standard baud rate seems to be 115200.</p> <blockquote> <p>I think the default Ender 3 configuration is aligned to the Ender3 official confg, which has 115200 so...</p> </blockquote> <p>Ah, but this is Marlin, and you're using Repetier. Hmmm, maybe ignore that then.</p> <p>According to <a href="https://forum.repetier.com/discussion/1455/recommended-baud-rate" rel="nofollow noreferrer">Recommended baud rate?</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>Normally 115200 or 250000 baud should work find and usb->serial latency is the bottleneck.</p> </blockquote> <p>Apart from that I don't know. Sorry. I might delete this answer, if it doesn't help.</p>

2019-08-25T10:41:21.610

|ultimaker-cura|anet-a8|adhesion|

<p>I have an Anet A8 and have a problem with my first layer. I printed nice prints but starting today the first layer is tearing in the middle:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4BiUc.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/4BiUc.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/L94tI.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/L94tI.jpg" alt="enter image description here"></a></p> <p>Any idea how to fix this?</p>

10858

first layer tearing

<p>I found the solution to be the exact opposite. My bed was too low (as in too far from the hotend). All the above mentioned aside, I did also drop the flow rate on the brim and initial layer by roughly 2-3 %. Now it prints perfectly again. (your mileage may vary)</p>

2019-08-26T16:57:33.060

|post-processing|

<p>On several occasions I've wanted lettering/numbering printed as part of a design, but with the ability to make it stand out more effectively in the printed object without having to do detailed manual finishing. Is there a good material which can catch in and fill sunken (depth 0.4&nbsp;mm, width 0.6-1.0&nbsp;mm) lines/strokes of alphanumeric characters without sticking to the surface (including fine layer ridges) of the print? My best result so far has been with crayon wax, but I wonder if there are more suitable materials. (Polymer clay, perhaps?)</p> <p>Results with crayons:</p> <p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/xLmJ6.jpg" alt="3D printed D20s with numbering filled with crayon wax"></p> <p>Durability is nice (and essential for some applications), but for many uses I have in mind it's not such a big deal. For example another place I've wanted clear text is on test panels to check nut/bolt thread sizes, in which case the text is unlikely to receive harsh treatment but any heat-based curing processes might effect the dimensional accuracy negatively. So both durable and non-durable solutions are interesting to me.</p>

10868

Finishing sunken text in 3D prints

<p>As suggested by Davo in a comment, nail polish works very well for this.</p> <blockquote> <p>I've seem people use fingernail polish before, wiping the excess off while it's wet.</p> </blockquote> <p>What works even better than wiping the excess off while it's wet is letting it fill up the pits and fully dry, then using acetone or other solvents to remove it from the non-sunken surface around the text. Acetone doesn't attack PLA, but I've found it does alter some PLA dyes, so alternate solvents might be preferable if that's a problem.</p> <p>Here's the result of my first test:</p> <p><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/tS1XR.jpg" alt="White D20 with red nail polish filling numbers"></p>

2019-08-26T20:33:08.357

|linear-motion|

<p>Take the standard Hiwin rail, as commonly used in 3D printers:</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/69Wy5.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/69Wy5.jpg" alt="Ebay Listing of Hiwin rail"></a></p> <p>They come in a max length of 2500 mm. Let's say I need twice that. If I connect two rails together end to end (as a "butt joint") and just bolt them into place, will it work as though it was one 5000&nbsp;mm rail? Or are we limited to whatever lengths the manufacturers put out.</p>

10870

Can linear guide rails be joined?

<p>The answer is yes; and it's a normal thing to do.</p> <p><a href="https://www.igus.com/info/linear-guides-butting-rails-together" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.igus.com/info/linear-guides-butting-rails-together</a></p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/izszZ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/izszZ.jpg" alt="DryLin® aluminum rails"></a></p> <p>Basically you should only do it with rails from the same manufacturer and you might have to file the mating surfaces, but butting them is altogether trivial. This method works with Drylin and UHMW-PE bearing surfaces as recirculating balls could get caught in the small gap that is left behind. This would cause the carriage to "jump" as it passes over the joint.</p>

2019-08-27T12:01:01.813

|ultimaker-cura|slicing|creality-ender-5|

<p>I bought Ender-5 and if I print sample model in bundle SD, it’s just perfect.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZzzdZ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZzzdZ.jpg" alt="sample_cat"></a></p> <p>But when I tested basic cube with raft, its base and top is just ugly. Even thought its 4 sides are perfect.</p> <p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XnIoQ.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/XnIoQ.jpg" alt="raft"></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SneQn.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/SneQn.jpg" alt="bottom"></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/C9LAW.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/C9LAW.jpg" alt="top"></a> <a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OeX3w.jpg" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/OeX3w.jpg" alt="side"></a></p> <ul> <li>Ultimaker Cura 4.2.1</li> <li>Bed temperature 45&nbsp;&deg;C</li> <li>Extruder temperature 200&nbsp;&deg;C</li> </ul> <p>Which setting(s) should I check futher?</p>

10874

Problem with first and last layers

<p>You may want to ensure that your filament diameter is correctly set in your printer's CURA profile, and that your hot end is at the correct temperature for the material you are using. Additionally, you should not need a raft to print the cube, and should be able to do without a raft or brim.</p>

2019-08-27T12:28:00.053

|filament|filament-choice|

<p>I'm looking to 3D print a structure that won't deform in high heat, up to about 220&nbsp;&deg;C. The filament itself can be 3D printed all the way up to about 380&nbsp;&deg;C. </p> <p>PEI seems like it could be a viable option. I found some <a href="https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/3dxtech-thermax-pei-175mm-05kg/sk/MHCFSNUC?rcode=GAT9HR&amp;gclid=CjwKCAjwqZPrBRBnEiwAmNJsNsqaaSEcWYtaTv1rIwDKuWgI9xCyinqDgV7bYUUO3zX7-pIA0gDPSBoCclYQAvD_BwE" rel="nofollow noreferrer">here</a>. This PEI filament specifies the glass transition temperature at 217&nbsp;&deg;C.</p> <p>Would this filament work? Are there any other types of materials that would fulfill this engineering requirement?</p>

10875

What is the 3D printer filament (or pellet) most resistant to bending at high heats?

<p>An easier but less simple solution might be to make a PLA 'pattern' that is the right size and shape, then use that to cast your item in aluminium (melting point ~ 660C) using the 'investment' or 'lost PLA' process.<br> Links:- <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-Lost-PLA-Investment-Casting-Aluminium/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">https://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-Lost-PLA-Investment-Casting-Aluminium/</a> <div class="youtube-embed"><div> <iframe width="640px" height="395px" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/qxj5eUkAFUI?start=0"></iframe> </div></div></p>

2019-08-27T16:45:03.360

|ultimaker-cura|flashprint|flashforge-dreamer|

<p>I recently bought a 3D printer called Dreamer NX from FlashForge. The dealer told me to use FlashPrint software that belongs to the FlashForge printer manufacturer. But, many people advise me to use Ultimaker Cura. Are there many differences between these two software packages?</p>

10880

Are there many differences between Ultimaker Cura and FlashForge FlashPrint slicers?

<p>Perhaps this is veering out a little bit from being an answer to the specific differences between software functionality, but one important difference that shouldn't be overlooked is that whatever you learn with Cura is applicable to <em>all FDM 3D printers</em>.</p> <p>Surely some setting tweaks you do might be specific to the properties of your particular printer, but a large amount of them, like choices of infill patterns, shells, adaptive layer heights, using secondary models as custom support and infill masks, breaking up models into multiple pieces for printing, etc. are completely printer-agnostic. If you learn to do these with software that's only usable (or at least only meant to be used) with your particular brand of printers, you'll have to translate/relearn if you later want to use a different printer, or help someone else who has a different brand of printer. If you learn with software that works with any printer, everything you learn is immediately applicable to different printers.</p>