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valley with a sea of vines and olives
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and beaches of earth pricked to blood by
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the hoe . Rising from the flecked sea are
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islands tapering to shipwrecked castles and
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towns , grey , rose-headed mariners clinging
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like limpets to the rock .
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There is a curd of morning smoke and
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a muffled bell taps the sky . Here we
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stopped , as in fine weather we always
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stopped . Down below is the village of
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Cagnes , but between are pockets of
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heat and cold like the hands of
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friends or strangers , and a flurry of
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early smells , the dark bosoms of
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beech and the thin pine fingers
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kissed by the sun .
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Then here was Nice , and the old holiday
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sea , blue as a new school exercise
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book . The same old Nice , creamy ,
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vulgar , out of time , bitter-sweet with
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the ghosts of dead monarchs and brilliant
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prostitutes , edging past grubby grandeur
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to the old sleeping port . This , and
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Paris , were my ruined pavilions , and I
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could catch the taste of dead dreams on
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my tongue like spray .
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We parked the Lambretta opposite the
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Negresco , and went to the beach to
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have a swim . Amazing bedlam rocked
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in our eyes . The sea boiled with waves ,
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they galloped to the walls and spumed
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over the Promenade des Anglais . A huge
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crowd had collected . There were firemen
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and policemen and ambulances , and the
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eyes of the spectators were hard with
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disaster .
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They all had that neat look of
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Mediterranean people to whom nothing
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could ever happen , the chosen sane , the
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uncuckolded , unrobbed , sheltered from
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disease and accident by doctors , God and
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the municipality . Yet , at any time now ,
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the bell would ring for them - the gilded
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love house , the mad grandmother or the
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bloody child at the crossroads .
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It was growing cold . We left the
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crowd and drove back to Vence .
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The cool evening perfumes stood
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beckoning at the corners of the roads .
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Mart is unable to smell ( her sense
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organs were impaired years ago ) , and
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I had to explain the low , sharp and
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sweet signals in the air . When we
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got back home we felt exhausted .
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London sickness ( a sense of guilt ,
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mingled with the memory of sandwiches
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We went straight to bed and slept until
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the turtle-doves drummed up the
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sun . The next morning , in the square
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opposite Pierre's , I read about the Nice
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beach catastrophe in the Patriote .
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Mart had been right , the body had been
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a woman's . It belonged to a Madame
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N. Enquiries had been made in the
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neighbourhood , and it transpired that
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Madame N's husband had made an
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arrangement with the dead lady's sister
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The sister , able to swim , had returned
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to the shore , but instead of returning
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to her brother-in-law ( with whom
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she had an illicit relationship ) , she
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went to her fiance*?2's house and
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confessed everything . Her fiance*?2
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reported her to the police , and then jumped
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off a cliff near Monte Carlo .
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The day I promised to take Catherine
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down to visit my young friend Philip
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at his school in the country , we were
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to leave at eleven , but she arrived
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at nine . Her blue dress was new ,
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and so were her fashionable shoes . Her
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hair had just been done . She looked
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more than ever like a pink and gold
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Renoir girl who expects everything from
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life .
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Catherine lives in a white house
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overlooking the sweeping brown tides
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of the river . She helped me clean up my
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flat with a devotion which said that
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she felt small flats were altogether more
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romantic than large houses . We drank
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tea , and talked mainly about Philip , who ,
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being 15 , has pure stern tastes in every-
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thing from food to music .
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Catherine looked at the books lying
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around his room , and asked if she
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might borrow the stories of Isaac Babel
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to read on the train . Catherine is 13 .
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I suggested she might find them dif-
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ficult , but she said , ' Philip reads them ,