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160 (#216) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING mohair twist-may certainly be produced by twisting, and for a limited variety of fancy patterns, from time to . time, will be in demand; but saving for a short period recurring about every seven years* such effects are rarely called for. Usually twisting would spoil the two or three types of fancy woollen yarns to be presently described, but it is, of course, conceivable that in very special cases fancy single woollen yarns might be combined in two - fold or three - fold effects for very special novelties. Winding.There is much to be urged against changing the form of yarn when once spun. On the other hand, there is often a limit to the size of bobbin or spool upon which a yarn may be directly spun, and if the yarn from three spinning mule spools can be wound on to one shuttle spool the stoppages for shuttling of the loom by which the yarn is to be woven will be reduced from three to one. There is, however, a limit to the size of the shuttle. The “for” and “ against ” will again prove a useful method of consideration. For Winding. Against Winding. Three spools on to one shuttle Extra cost. spool; the time saved in Mixing of doffings possible. weaving Yarn looked over; knotted Mixing of wound and un- and slubbed. wound or double-wound spools possible. For warping it is desirable to Softer tension. obtain the necessary Bobbin breadths less marked length per cheese and on the lists. thus ensure regular ten- sioning throughout the warping operation. * The periodicity of colour recurrence is said to be about 7 years, but no facts supporting this length of period are available. 160

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161 (#217) ############################################ WINDING FANCY WOOLLEN YARNS For hosiery it is absolutely No knots. necessary to obtain the long continuous lengths required in cone-cheese form. It may be taken as a maxim that if there is reason to suspect any difference in the nature of the blend spun, means should be taken effectually to mix the yarn produced in the creel when used for warp, and to weave in order-spindle by spindle and doffing by doffing—if for weft, employing a loom box mixing apparatus if possible. Unless yarns are going to be most thoroughly mixed in the subsequent operations—and this is possible only in the case of warping and not always then-it is better to consider that :- (a) There will be a slight difference between the product of spindle and spindle ; (6) There will be a marked difference between the product of doffing and doffing ; and to subsequently treat yarns with these differences fully in view. The several types of winding machines are treated in Chapter XIII. Fancy Woollen Yarns.-Fancy woollen yarns may be produced by one or more of the following methods :- 1. By structural irregularities (carding or spinning) in the single yarn ; 2. By “nicker," "fleck" or "slub" additions on the card to the single yarn ; 3. By sectional feed and irregular doffing or some such carding arrangement, yielding "random” effects; 4. By fancy twisting conveniently studied under :- (a) Irregular or “cloud” twists; L 161

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162 (#218) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING (6) Knop twists ; (c) Three-fold corkscrew and other twists ; (d) Fancy loops produced by three-folding at two operations ; (e) Spaced knop and loop yarns ; (6) Metal and gimp twists. Structural irregularities may be produced by : (a) Irregular feeding of the rings of the ring doffer ; or by irregularities introduced into the film just before the tapes receive it in the case of tape condensers”; (6) Irregularities in the rings of the last ring doffers ; or in the grooved roller breaking-up mechanism of the tape condenser. “Nickers," "flecks," or slubs may be dropped, regularly or irregularly, on to one or other of the rollers of the condenser, or even of the intermediate, the exact position and roller chosen being decided usually experi- mentally, on the actual card as set for the blend-by the extent to which mixing is desired. Usually the "nicker" or "slub" should be sufficiently carded to incorporate it firmly into the body of the thread, but not so that it loses its identity in the body of the thread. Several other types of fancy twists may be con- veniently studied by reference to Chapter X. Perhaps the most effective of woollen fancy yarns is the “ random yarn so much employed in the hosiery trade. The method of producing this yarn is very simple. A ball and creel feed is employed and, to illustrate the method simply, may be considered to feed into the card inch stripes of two colours-say tan and French-grey. Thus on the last swift the film presented to the ring doffer is an inch by inch film of tan and French-grey. 162

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163 (#219) ############################################ RING TWISTING If the doffers are of the simple type the top doffer will take, say, the tan and the bottom doffer the French- grey stripe fairly exactly. To produce the variegated random effect required : (a) The rings on the doffers must be waved so that they encroach upon more than one of the stripes presented to them; or better still (6) Both ring doffers, clothed with ordinary rings, may be given a side-ways traverse so that they doff” the swift partly from one coloured stripe and partly from the other coloured stripe. This arrangement is so simple that it is frequently employed in mills spinning hosiery yarns, and would no doubt prove very efficient for mills spinning the simpler fancy yarns for the costume and mantle trades. The Ring Twisting Frame.The ordinary prin- ciples of ring spinning are usually employed for twisting woollen yarns, see Chapter IX, p. 244, but the following points should be specially considered :- 1. Woollen yarns usually being thick as compared with worsted yarns, the frame should be strongly built and all the parts on the heavy side. 2. Pitch of spindles, size of rings and length of tension should be arranged for the largest possible bobbin or tube. The range of counts to be twisted should be carefully borne in mind. 3. All additions such as for clouding, knopping, etc., should be strongly built yet delicately balanced. 263

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164 (#220) ############################################ CHAPTER V SETS OF WOOLLEN MACHINES—WOOLLEN YARN COSTING THE woollen and worsted industries have developed on quite distinct lines, with the result that while one industry has maintained itself as an interdependent industry the other has severely sectionalized itself. Thus in this country there are few woollen spinning firms whose final product is the yarn-almost all firms have linked up with their spinning plants weaving and usually finishing or partially finishing (scouring and milling) plants. On the Continent-possibly owing to the developed skill in fine wool yarn spinning (woollen and worsted)—woollen yarn spinning has long been an established industry. It will be obvious that sets of machinery will be designed and organized according to whether the yarns produced are to be placed directly on the market or handed forward to the weaving department to be con- verted into cloth. In the first case, standard styles of yarns will probably be produced “day in day out," while in the latter case the machinery must be more flexible and capable of producing all the varieties of yarns the cloth constructor may demand. Similarly with yarn costing. The worsted yarn spinning concern may organize its costing on a truly scientific basis and may work down to at least the im- portant details; whereas the yarn costing in a mill which further converts the yarn into cloth is a much 164

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164 (#223) ############################################ SETS OF WOOLLEN MACHINES more complex and less satisfactory matter. In York- shire, in the case of large firms, it is usually taken for granted that no section can be worked economically unless it is organized as a separate and independent department; and it is probable that this is the correct line to take wherever possible with just this limitation- the cloth constructor must ask for and be supplied with the yarns he desires. The opposite method of the yarn constructor throwing his yarn at the cloth constructor and the cloth constructor just having to accept that which the spinner supplies is so wrong, that it is con- ceivable that if this method were maintained our industry might in the future be seriously affected. Reference to Chapter XII, dealing with the same attitude but further developed-in the case of the worsted in- dustry, should here be made. Sets of Woollen Machinery.-Sets of woollen machinery usually consist of 1. Blending machinery, blending-room and storage; 2. Carding sets with storage, if necessary, for con- densed sliver ; 3. Mules to follow the carding; or woollen spinning frames ; 4. Winding and twisting machinery with yarn storage. Of these four, the second, carding, is the controlling section, so that in the woollen trade the term "sets of machines" invariably implies number of complete sets of carding. All the other machinery--preceding and succeeding-is arranged in accordance with the cards. As a rule the blending-room is so much on the top of the carding that, as only one is required, no economy can be effected by further consideration ; but in large concerns where more than one room is necessary, it will 165

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164 (#224) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING be safe to arrange for one blending-room and equipment for every ten or twelve cards. Thus the single blending- room equipment here portrayed may be followed by twelve cards and the necessary spindles to consume the production of these cards. It should be noted, however, that cards dealing with coarser material and condensing to thicker counts will usually consume more material than cards dealing with fine material and condensing to fine counts. In the worsted industry cross-bred cards are made to turn off up to 70 lb. per hour, while some botany cards are only turning off 20 to 30 lb. per hour! Ir the woollen industry 72-in. carders turn off from 30 lb. to 80 lb. per hour with a variation of at least 50 per cent. between individual firms dealing with the same class of wool. In Fig. 52 an American woollen plant is illustrated, this being housed in a storied building. This par- ticular plant was running on fine hosiery yarns, in some cases randoms”-and it is safe to argue that the carding surface arranged for is not sufficient to meet the requirements of Yorkshire woollen manu- facturers. The following particulars respecting this plant should be studied : (a) Cubical content of material store-room; (6) Area of blending-room; (C) Cubical content of mellowing-room ; (d) Conveyer system from blending-room to cards; (e) Arrangement of building to suit cards; W) Cylinder lifting and card-grinding arrangements ; (g) Storage of condensed slivers in both card-room and mule spinning-room ; (h) Arrangement of winding and twisting machinery ; © Yarn storage and conditioning. * * Not included in the plan. 166

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164 (#225) ############################################ 10 9 8 LO 7 Bobbins etc. Storage for Condenser Bobbins etc. 16 5 IL TUTTO 4 3 2 1 2dles each 10 Mules 80 feet 400 Spindles each

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165 (#227) ############################################ SETS OF WOOLLEN MACHINES 1 This plant may be calculated on the basis of 40 lb. per hour per card, and the mule spindles given are based upon spinning 40 skeins Yorkshire woollen yarns. In Fig. 53 a ground-floor plan of an up-to-date woollen mill is given. In this case a heavier feed of the cards is possible, as a thicker count of yarn (10 skeins to 20 skeins) is to be spun. In the case of mungo, shoddy, etc., each set of cards should be designed with sufficient carding surface to card up thoroughly blends in which the waste structure has not been thoroughly disen- tangled, or, should extreme mixtures be required, to effect perfect mixing of either colours or different materials. The particulars already given for the previous plan should be made the basis of study for this plan also. It will be noticed how much better this plan lends itself to the satisfactory arrangement and extension of the machinery and also to the firm, rigid fixing which is so necessary in the case of cards. The control of lighting and driving is also so much better that, wherever possible, it is obvious that this scheme should be adopted. In order to give some idea of woollen-mill design Figs. 53a, 53b, and 53c are given. It is impossible here to go into such matters as (a) Selection of site and preparation of the ground for building; (6) Types of building materials; (c) Types of floor ; (d) Types of roof and roof-spans ; (e) Types of drive ; () Control of lighting and cleaning (floors, walls and windows); (g) Power and water supply and drainage ; 167

[[25, 26, "Textile Machine Part"]]

166 (#228) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING (h) Possibilities of extension under an organized scheme of development. These and many other matters should be fully taken cognizance of by those who wish to have a really efficient organization with possibilities of extension, still main- taining the desired organization. Not less important are the estimates of costs and returns for given expen- ditures. The mistake is too often made, however, of saving capital expenditure at the expense of efficient production; and as, roughly, £1,000 worth of machinery will turn over £50,000 of material per annum, the folly of making this mistake is very evident. Woollen Yarn Costing-In woollen spinning the conditions of running and output vary so much from time to time that the only safe and satisfying method to adopt is to- (a) Perfectly organize returns of all expenditure; (6) Perfectly organize returns of all produce ; (c) Perfectly organize returns of all income ; (d) Carefully work out (i) cost per yardage ; (ii) income against expendi- ture. Every three months * the figures so obtained should be carefully analysed and acted upon. It may be taken for granted that any returns which are not useful—directly or indirectly-are a waste of time and may be dispensed with. Thus what the woollen spinner really needs is- (a) A current method of costing his yarns to enable him to give immediate quotations of price; (b) An exact method of costing his yarns obtained by taking total expenditure and total output over a given period—say three months-and dividing the one by the other ; * In some sections even daily returns may be instituted. 168

[[85, 85, "Textile Machine"]]

171 (#233) ############################################ WOOLLEN YARN COSTING I2 O 74 6 S Blend B s. d. 125 lb. Mungo at 6d. per lb. 62 6 48 lb. Cotton Laps at 3d. per lb. 173 lb. yielding 150 lb., costing. 5}d. per lb. Thus by employing a more expensive material- cotton laps at 3d. as against waste cotton at ijd.- a marked saving on the cost per lb. of the blend results owing to the better cotton carrying more of the mungo through the carding to the spinning. Blend B will actually deliver a greater weight of condensed sliver and of better spinning quality than Blend A, and in the long run will prove to be much more economical. Finally, note should be made of the utilization of waste products in a woollen mill. The outstanding example of the utilization of a waste product is the income of about £80,000 per annum the Bradford Cor- poration receives from the re-claimed oil from wool- combers' suds. In the woollen mill the “fly”-tech- nically termed "fud "-may prove a not inconsiderable source of income, and it seems more than probable that much oil in the atmosphere and saturating the walls and floors might well be re-claimed and utilized. But it is quite possible that in the near future woollen mills may be kept as clean and tidy as the best cotton mills. Certainly the gain in efficient working will be much more than can possibly accrue from the utilization of any conglomeration of fibre or oil wastes. 171

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172 (#234) ############################################ CHAPTER VI THE BASIC PRINCIPLES INVOLVED IN WORSTED DRAWING THE somewhat complex series of operations to be studied under the heading “Worsted Drawing" will best be understood by treating these operations under the following headings :- 1. The basic principles involved ; 2. The clothing (mechanical) of the basic principles ; and 3. The study of the various types of worsted drawing machines. Chapters VI, VII, and VIII are respectively de- voted to these three different aspects of the problems now to be faced. It is fundamentally important to note that worsted drawing involves (a) The feeding of a sliver or slivers into the gill-box or the drawing-box; (6) The passage of the sliver or slivers through the gill-box or the drawing-box; and (c) The delivery of the sliver or slivers from the gill- box or the drawing-box in an efficient manner, and convenient form for subsequent treat- ment. It will be well to remember, in the first place, that in the early days of the worsted industry there was no such thing as worsted drawing-combing (as a prepara- 172

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173 (#235) ############################################ PRINCIPLES IN WORSTED DRAWING tion for spinning) and spinning were the two processes commonly employed. It was only when the necessity arose for speeding-up spinning that it was discovered to be economically sound more satisfactorily to prepare the combed slivers for the final spinning operation. It is, therefore, not surprising to find that in both the worsted and woollen industries the machines employed to pre- pare the sliver for spinning are derivatives of the actual spinning machines—the drawing-box in the case of worsted spinning and the billey (or “roving-mule”) in the case of woollen spinning. Incidentally the ques- tion arises as to whether, in view of the extensive plants now employed as a preliminary to spinning, the preparation of slivers has not been overdone-whether some modification in the actual spinning process might not do away with much of the cumbersome plant at present deemed necessary for sliver preparation in the case of both worsted and woollen yarn spinning. A second type of machine is employed in worsted drawing, viz. the gill-box. This machine probably takes its origin in some form of combing operation, and, being especially suited in its early form for long fibres, most likely came into the worsted industry from the flax industry. Even to-day it is absolutely unknown in the cotton industry, but with the refinements recently introduced (the O.P.S. Gill-box, for example), it is quite conceivable that a use may be found for it in treating the longer cottons. Again, French spinners dealing with fine botany wools appear to have felt the necessity for carrying the gilling principle right throughout the drawing processes, and so have introduced, in place of the English straight-barred gill, the circular gill or porcupine.” The possibility of fitting every drawing-box up to the mule with a porcupine " has had a marked effect on > 173

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174 (#236) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING the principles of working the slivers through French sets of drawing-boxes. The Drawing Mechanism.-The first principles of worsted drawing, then, to be dealt with will have immediate reference to the three types of worsted sliver- preparing boxes, viz. The ordinary gill-box; The ordinary drawing-box; and The porcupine-box (or French drawing-box). In each of these types of machine there will be front-rollers to be run as quickly as possible, in order that as great a weight of sliver as possible may be delivered ; and back-rollers which will be run just so much below the front roller speed that the right draft or extension may be given to the slivers under treatment. In the ordinary gill-box the slivers are supported between the back and front rollers by a series of pinned fallers controlled on the screw-thread principle (see “ Wool Carding and Combing," p. 201). In the ordinary drawing-box the slivers between back and front rollers are supported and in part con- trolled by the carriers, the action of which must be carefully studied. In the case of the French drawing-box the slivers are supported by the porcupine, which may be regarded as a continuous gilling arrangement. It should be remarked here that in the ordinary drawing-box twisted slivers may be treated, but in the gill-box, and in the French drawing-box, twist is un- thinkable and probably impossible. The importance of this limitation will be apparent when English and French methods of sliver treatment come to be con- trasted. 174

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176 (#238) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING Botany 2" to 4" 6 or 7 . . thus reasonable to infer that fineness and length of fibre are factors to be taken into consideration. Then if the following lengths are taken as the average for the respective tops, as analysed on the Schlumberger machine : Length Fineness Lustre 7" to 9" 1/500" to 1/800" Cross-bred 4" to 7" 1/800" to 1/1000' 1/1000" to 1/1300" the reason for 5 or 6 operations for lustre and demi-lustre wools ; cross-bred wools; and 7 or 9 botany wools will be apparent. It must be conceded, however, that this is empirical and not scientific, and that a research involving the higher mathematics is here called for, and possibly in the near future will be undertaken. The problem of " draft and doublings "may now be clearly stated. Taking a 256 dram for a 40-yd. (4 oz. for 10 yd.) top and working to a 4-dram roving (which again would be given a draft-without doubling-of 4.5 to obtain 1/30's count), the problem involved may be set out as follows : Top I 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 operations Weight in drams. 256 4 Draft Doublings. (5) (5) (5) (4) (4) (3) (3) (2) (2) It will here be noted that if the doublings are given the total draft required may be readily obtained. Thus, if working empirically the doublings given in brackets are adopted, then the total draft will be 64* X5X5X5 X 4 X 4*3*3* 2 X 2 = 45920 and 45920 5.5 equal drafts for the nine operations for a 4 dr. roving. * 256 4 - 64 dominant draft. 176

[[51, 52, "Textile Machine"]]

180 (#242) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING exceeding the draft; but, probably, no disadvantage will thereby accrue. The full particulars for the list given on p. 175 may now be worked out for a set of botany (English) drawing a 8 b1 CLA (d) 8 88 Fig. 54.-Illustrating the Principles of Doubling in Worsted Drawing machines for twisted slivers. Thus the draft for, say, a 3 in. average fibre length will be- 20" 6.6 maximum draft. 3 Thus doublings from, say, six downwards may be employed. These must now be balanced with the 180

[[53, 55, "Textile Machine"]]

183 (#245) ############################################ PRINCIPLES IN WORSTED DRAWING -- 1 - D seven ch efi ag, the pinoys de past List VII.--WORSTED COUNTS OF YARN FOR FRENCH DRAWING MACHINERY. Sliver from Heilmann Comb, 0.07. Sliver from Finishing Gill-box, 0.07 DRAWING BOXES. Worsien Count of Yarn. Double Drafter. Drafter. Reducer. Finisher. Spinning Dr:aft. I 2 3 4 6 II 1:53 1.66 WARPS 38's 40's 44's 47's 50's 53's 56's 60's 62's 62's 72's 80's 82's 85's 86's 94's *090 *090 090 090 *094 •100 103 III *119 IOI •118 •125 *131 •138 •144 150 088 088 089 .088 •088 094 100 100 *100 103 •103 III III •125 •125 •138 440 440 440 .440 -440 •470 *505 •500 532 440 500 :561 :561 •625 •625 690 .720 •781 .781 905 •840 940 905 1.00 954 | 1•06 IOI 1:13 I 09 I.19 1.16 1.23 I.20 1:35 I.01 I.13 I.19 I'31 I.30 I'44 I.34 1:47 1:42 1.53 1.47 1.60 1.57 1.69 I.20 I'35 I.44 1:50 1.63 172 1.81 I.94 2'05 I.72 I.97 2:15 2.25 2:35 2.40 2.60 1078 I'91 2:05 2 20 2.29 2:40 2:56 2.20 2.50 2.75 2.81 2.94 3.06 3.20 1.56 1.69 1.84 1.97 2.10 2:25 2:38 2.50 2.61 2.25 2:56 2.81 2.94 3.05 3:16 3:40 1.81 1.94 2:12 2:25 2:40 2•бо 2.72 2.91 3:04 2:56 2.97 3.25 3:35 3:50 370 3.25 3.51 3.81 4.06 431 4.63 4.88 5.20 5.45 4.63 5:30 5.80 6.00 6.25 6.25 6.50 II.7 II'4 II.5 II.6 II.6 1104 II.5 II 5 II 4 13:4 13.6 13.6 13:7 13.6 WEFTS 14 I 3.88 14:5 Approximate Doublings Approximate Drafts I 13 10-15 4X4 4 4.75 I 4.20 2 4:20 4 4.75 3 4.5 3 4.5 4 4 75 4.75 3 4.5 183

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184 (#246) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING LIST VIIA.-WEIGHIS OF SLIVERS (DRAMS PER 40 YDS.) FOR FRENCH DRAWING MACHINERY. Sliver from the Heilmann Comb weighs 4 oz. (256 drams) per 10 yards. Sliver from Finishing Gill-box weighs oz. (256 drams) per 10 yards. DRAWING BOXES Finisher. Spinning Draft. I 2 4 5 6 4.80 1107 11:4 II.5 11.6 II.6 II.4 II.5 II.5 11.4 13.4 13.6 13:6 137 13.6 14.1 14:5 38's 204 203 41.5 25.4 23:5 153 I 2.0 11.S 10:1 5.63 40's 204 208 41.5 23.5 20.5 13:5 II O 10.8 9:44 5 20 44's 204 208 41.5 21.8 19.5 127 10:3 3.95 8.65 47's 204 208 41.5 20:5 18:3 12.2 9.60 9:30 8:14 4.50 So's 196 209 41.5 19.2 18.2 II.2 9 05 8.72 7.63 4'24 53's 184 195 39.0 18.1 16.2 10.6 8.32 8.14 7.03 3.95 56's 179 183 36.5 17.0 15:4 10:1 8.00 7.70 6.72 3.75 60's 165 183 36.0 15.8 143 9:40 7.64 7:32 6.30 3:53 62's 154 183 34.5 15.3 13.6 9.00 7:15 700 6.03 3:36 62's 183 178 41.5 18.1 16.2 10-6 8.32 8.14 7.15 3.95 72's 156 178 36.5 15.5 14.0 9.30 7•32 7.16 6.17 3:45 80's 147 165 14.1 12.7 8.50 6.66 6.50 5.65 3:15 82's 140 165 32:6 13:7 12:4 8.29 6:51 6:23 5.46 3:05 85's 133 147 293 12.9 I 2.0 7.80 6.00 5.24 2.93 88's 128 147 29.3 12 5 II.4 7.61 5.98 5.79 4.95 2.93 94's 123 133 26.5 11.7 10.9 7:05 5.72 5.38 2.82 Approximate Doublings I 16-18 4 I 2 3 3 Approximate Drafts 10-15 | 4X4 4.20 4.75 4.5 4.5 4.75 4.75 4'5 * A Gill-box process usually precedes this, particularly in the case of mixtures. The following are the conversion methods employed to effect this change :- I Worsted Count to oz. per 10 yards Worsted Count X 3.5 18.3 Worsted Count to drams per 40 yards Worsted Count. Worsted Count of Yarn. *Double Drafter. Drafter. Reducer. WARPS 32.6 4.75 4:20 WEFTS 6:24 4.82 184

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185 (#247) ############################################ PRINCIPLES IN WORSTED DRAWING rollers. As a rule it may be taken that the slivers are so firmly gripped by the drafting rollers that there is no slip. Under these conditions there is no half-way house-the fibres are either under the control of the back rollers or of the front rollers, and if there is any question the front rollers assert their strength and the fibres are extended or broken. If, however, the grip of, say, the back rollers is inefficient, then whatever the dis- tance apart may be the front rollers will take off the fibres at different tensions and there is a chance of a looped yarn being produced ; and similarly with a defective grip of front rollers. Thus the following con- ditions of roller-gripping are possible, and the results in each case should be thought out, or, better still, experimented with :- Back rollers failing to grip Front rollers gripping; gripping failing to grip; failing to grip failing to grip; gripping gripping. The last is, of course, the correct condition, and every box should be designed and clothed to effect this. Given, then, the last condition, what possible settings of the ratch” are there? There are three possible settings of the ratch for any given length of fibre, viz. 1. Front rollers taking control of fibre before back rollers release fibres (A); after back rollers re- lease fibres (C); 3. just as back rollers release fibres (B). (See Fig. 55) It is obvious that with modern tops, which may be 60 2. 1 185

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186 (#248) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING composed of fibres from 2 in. to 5 in. or from 3 in. to 12 in. in length, the third condition-which is un- doubtedly the correct condition cannot be other than approximated to. A B. 8 8 8 C Fig. 55.- Illustrating Ratching in Worsted Drawing (But here again the art of worsted drawing comes in, and thoughtful experiment will be the dominant factor in the making of the worsted drawing overlooker- or may we not say engineer ? In French drawing-boxes the "ratch" is usually taken to be the distance from the back rollers to the porcupine (see Figs. 62 and 66a). Drawing Twist-In English drawing machinery the slivers are supported between the back and front 186

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187 (#249) ############################################ ING PRINCIPLES IN WORSTED DRAWING in. to s un other rollers either by fallers or carriers. Fallers naturally eliminate the necessity for or the possibility of twist support; but carriers offer little or no obstruction to twist support and twist-fibre-control. Thus it comes about that it is customary to add such twist to slivers coming from any given box as will best ensure perfect delivery from the box, and more particularly ensure the control of these slivers during entry into and drafting in the succeeding box. In open drawing the twist added is designed to ensure strength of sliver for winding on to the bobbin and yet not to interfere with the fibres sliding upon one another. Usually the twist will be decided to ensure efficient control during drafting, this being ample to ensure efficient "winding on" and "drawing off.” It is much to be regretted that so little is known about the frictional co-efficients of fibres, since the amount of twist may obviously be varied in accordance with the friction of fibre on fibre. Thus to satisfactorily control Alpaca slivers much more twist must be inserted than in drawing wool slivers of a similar thickness, while for Ovibos -apparently a very slippery fibre--less twist is needed.* From recent researches carried out in the University of Leeds two results obtained have a bearing on this present problem. It has been found that to obtain the maximum strength for any yarn or sliver an ex- terior fibre angle of about 25° is necessary. The discovery also has been made that unless an angle approximating to 25° is obtained, under con- tinuous strain such as during weaving, there may be slipping of the fibres one upon the other. It will, therefore, be obvious that in drafting, an exterior fibre angle under 25° must be given, and that * The “spring” of Alpaca and the “ plasticity" of the Ovibos fibre is probably the explanation. ) 187

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188 (#250) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING T = TT I 2 д the slipping of the fibres upon one another without breakage should be attained if by any means possible: the addition of oil may be one means-drawing in water, if mechanically possible, another means. The formula given to hold a rope tight round a post is— T, TI = e 2nTM, in which tension on slack side ; T the tension on the tight side when rope or sliver is about to slip; = number of turns of belt on the pulley or roller in no. of rollers worsted spinning, -1 -) ; the co-efficient of friction between belt and the pulley. With knowledge of the strength of the sliver being dealt with and of the type of holding rollers, no doubt on these lines the turns per yard, per foot or per inch might well be worked out. But the working would be somewhat complex. The factors involved in deciding the desirable twist for drafting worsted slivers are certainly many, and their bearings upon one another are somewhat difficult to define and to group into a useful formula. It might be taken, for example, that fibre length should be made the basis. If it were then discovered by experiment that the longest fibres should make, say, three turns round the sliver (see Fig. 38), then for thin slivers (for the finisher and roving boxes) the formula would roughly stand- 3 fibre length turns per I". But in deciding the twist for a sliver it may be deemed necessary to maintain the same relative twist * in the drafted sliver, and as diameters decrease as v draft, Angle of exterior fibres. 13 188

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191 (#253) ############################################ PRINCIPLES IN WORSTED DRAWING It should here be noted that while for open drawing a maximum amount of twist may be necessary--although from the point of view of rollers, power consumed, etc., a minimum amount would obviously be desirable-in the case of cone drawing the only twist absolutely necessary is that to ensure the sliver being satisfactorily drawn off the bobbin when being fed in to the succeeding box, although frequently more twist than this will give better drafting fibre-contact. Thus twist will be a function of fibre friction on fibre ; bobbin friction on bearings (type of creel) ; thickness of sliver ; speed of draw-off of sliver ; maximum and minimum diameters of bobbin. These points being decided experimentally would no doubt lead to a method or rule superior to the present almost pure empiricism. Selection of Sets of Gill- and Drawing-boxes. The first principles involved in the selection of gill-boxes as against drawing-boxes or in designing suitable com- binations of gill-boxes and drawing-boxes will be best considered when dealing with drawing and spinning for the coloured trade. It should here be noted, how- ever, that if several qualities of white (undyed) tops are to be mixed together-and this is the best method employed in Yorkshire to maintain a standard quality year in and year out--then perfect mixing is just as important as in mixing black and white tops : imperfect mixing will eventually result in defective streaky pieces. That the streakiness does not appear until the pieces are piece-dyed does not exonerate the spinner from responsibility in causing the defect. 191

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192 (#254) ############################################ CHAPTER VII WORSTED DRAWING MACHINES—THE CLOTHING OF BASIC PRINCIPLES The mechanical clothing of the principles dealt with must now be carefully considered. There are four distinct types of machines employed in the conversion of the comparatively thick "top into the comparatively thin and level “ roving," from which the worsted spinner may produce a fine, level thread. These are- 1. The gill-box (Figs. 56 and 57); 2. The open drawing-box; 3. The cone drawing-box (Fig. 61); and 4. The French drawing-box (Figs. 62, 63, 66 and 66a). Under extraordinary circumstances it may be necessary to employ combinations of these machines. For example, a set of French drawing-boxes treating open slivers may culminate in a cone roving-box pre- paring slivers for spinning on the cap, ring or flyer frames. Under these circumstances it will be necessary to introduce into the cone roving-box a control ” for the control of the untwisted fibres between back and front rollers. Cases such as this, however, are so rarely to be met with, and are so readily solved in view of sound knowledge of the principles already dealt with that they do not here call for further com- ment or treatment. porcupine- 192

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193 (#255) ############################################ WORSTED DRAWING MACHINES 1. The Gill-box.-The careful study of the pre paring gill-boxes, strong gill-boxes and finisher gill- boxes (" Wool Carding and Combing," p. 200) will have cleared the way for here studying just those special points which the worsted drawer must perfectly apprehend. Gill-boxes may be studied under the following heads :- (a) Ordinary gill-boxes; (6) Extraordinary gill-boxes, these being 1. Expanding screw-thread gill-boxes ; 2. Double sets of fallers gill-boxes; 3. Double or treble thread gill-boxes ; 4. The O.P.S. gill-box; and 5. The intersecting gill-box. To illustrate the ordinary gill-box in a multiple form Fig. 56 is given. In this figure, four heads economically controlled are shown, the following calculations being arranged to illustrate clearly without further details the principles of driving and calculation involved. Total Draft : Surface speed of front rollers : 50 m/m x 35 x 65 x 70 = 6.26 Surface speed of back rollers : 50 m/m x 65 x 17 x 23 Back Draft : Speed of Fallers 70 x 65 x 25 x 11 m/m Surface speed of back rollers : 50 m/m x tt x 23 x 17 x 18 = I'13 Front Draft : Surface speed of front rollers : 50 m/m x + x 35 x 18 Speed of Fallers : 65 x 25 x 11 m/m 5:54 Total Draft : I.13 X 5:54 = 6.26 It will be useful to calculate the gauge-point so that either N 193

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194 (#259) ############################################ WORSTED DRAWING MACHINES 1 ( = 35 35) = Therefore if this be taken as the G.P. the calculation stands- Draft G.P. Change wheel, and change wheel x G.P. =Draft. 6.26 and (35 X :179 = 6•26) •179 This is an interesting example of the use of reciprocals which should be thoroughly apprehended ; and then one or other of the two possible G.P.s always employed. The following are the calculations for all the speeds and drafts directly from the pulley shaft (40 wheel) : Back Roller : 40 X 17 X 23 X 50 X 22 70 x 65 x 70 x 7 x 1000 = .0077 of a metre. Fallers : 40 X 25 X II =.00873 of a metre. 70 X 18 X 1000 Front Rollers : 40 X 35 X 50 X 22 =.0483 of a metre. 70 x 65 x 7 X 1000 Winding-on : 40 X 35 X 22 X 22 X 100 X 22 =·0298 of a metre. 70 X 65 X 25 X 40 X 7 X 1000 Front Roller Speed .0483 Front Draft Faller Speed 00873 = 5:53 Back Draft Faller Speed .00873 = I'13 Back Roller Speed 0077 Front Roller Speed 0483 Total Draft 6•27 Back Roller Speed 0077 For any given or suitable speed of the pulley shaft there will be no difficulty in calculating (a) Take-in of back rollers in metres ; (6) speed of fallers in metres traversed or in fallers per minute ; (c) delivery of front rollers in metres per minute. 195

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194 (#260) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING The design of box for running a large number of fallers a minute must be carefully studied-if, say, only 100 per minute are required, design of cams, etc., is not so important, but in such a box as the 2-spindle gill where above 300 fallers a minute (= 300 inches moved per minute with 1 in. pitch) may be desirable, every endeavour must be made to obtain perfect control by good design in the parts controlling the fallers or faller-locking " cannot be avoided. The advantage of the circular gill (the porcupine) is here in evidence. The porcupine is frequently run at over 200 in. per minute on its working circumference. * * V. Of the extraordinary gill-boxes, type 1 has never been employed as other than a preparatory gill-box, and owing to its tendency to "faller-mark" the sliver has failed to make good; and type 2 is only found to be useful in the early stages of preparing wool -say for the first two operations in preparing wool for combing by preparing gill-boxes—the lack of control exercised by the fallers over fibre-straightened slivers being obvious in this and even in the single-set of faller gill-boxes (" Wool Carding and Combing," p. 207). The employment of double or treble screw-threads referred to under (3) is worthy of more careful considera- tion, for by this means fallers may be traversed rapidly under good mechanical control, and yet the sliver may be well supported by the necessary number of fallers between back and front rollers. The O.P.S. box referred to under (4) is one of the most interesting recently introduced. In Fig. 57 the plan of a double-head box of this description is given. The calculations for this box may be briefly set out as follows: 196

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197 (#263) ############################################ WORSTED DRAWING MACHINES 5 16 Total Draft : Surface speed of front rollers: " x 50 x 35 x 90 X 100 7:59 Surface speed of back rollers : 21" x 24 x 48 x 18 x 30 Back Draft : Speed of Fallers : x 2 (double thread) x 18 x 90 X 100 Surface speed of back rollers : 23" x T X 18 x 18 x 30 I 32 Front Draft: Surface speed of front rollers : " X TT X 50 x 35 x 18 5.73 Speed of fallers : " x 2 x 24 x 48 x 18 Total Draft I.32 X 5.73 7:56 Speed of Fallers : Revs. of main shaft (240) X 38 X 18 X 2 minute : per 332 fallers per minute. Gauge Point : I X 100 X 90 One rev. of B.R. gives revs. of back shaft 5 B 55 X 18. 30 X 18 16.7 I X 48 x 24 One rev, of F.R. gives = 33 teeth moved. 35 Therefore Teeth for I rev. of F.R. 33 Rev. of back shaft: = 2 teeth in change wheel 16.7 for no draft. 2 X 21" Correction for sizes of rollers : 6.7 teeth in change wheel for no draft. And for draft (7.59) Teeth for no draft" (67) draft required (7.59) = teeth in change wheel (50) Therefore G.P. - 6.7 and G.P. x Draft Change wheel (6.7 x 7.59) 50 197

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199 (#265) ############################################ WORSTED DRAWING MACHINES For a draft of 7.59 for one revolution of back shaft, therefore -1519 = 6-7 sections (or teeth) change wheel for no draft, , I X 7.59 teeth per section and * 50 change wheel •1519 Now .1519 is the reciprocal of 6.7 I 50) = '1519 6.7 Therefore if this be taken as the G.P. the calculation stands- Draft G.P. Change wheel and change wheel x G.P. = Draft. 7:59 and (50 x •1519 = 7.59) •1519 This corresponds with the example given on p. 194. It should be noted here that it is usually necessary to check calculations similar to this by direct experi- ment. In the case of this particular box owing to slight differences the G.P. is 106. As illustrating the difference that this makes 50 X •106 = 5.3 Draft There are three specially interesting features in this box 1. The front rollers are extraordinarily small, thus favouring the control and satisfactory treat- ment of the shortest wools ; 2. The front rollers are spirally grooved ; 3. The fallers have a half-fall action favouring the reduction of the distance between the wool in the faller and the wool under the control of the front roller to a minimum. A variation of the ordinary gill-box is to be found 199

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200 (#266) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING 18" and 18 34" pitch 35 CW. FR (600 70 IA (2) 4p TAE 674 BR 0 40 170 26 62 20) 6%" 6/" Fig. 58.-The Two Spindle Gill-box 200

[[33, 35, "Textile Machine"]]

201 (#267) ############################################ WORSTED DRAWING MACHINES in the two-spindle gill-box in which the slivers on emerging from the front rollers are slightly twisted (see p. 200), and wound on to a bobbin. In Fig. 58 this machine is illustrated diagrammatically in elevation and plan. The calculations involved are so similar on the one hand to those involved in gill-box calculation and on the other hand to ordinary drawing-box calcu- lations that a brief statement of the calculations in- volved is all that is necesary: Back Roller Speed : 500 x 61 x 40 x 17 x 20 x 3 x tt 12 X 70 X 70 X 70 98 inches per minute. Faller Speed : 500 x 64 x 40 18 x ** =I12 inches per 12 X 70 X 18 minute. Front Roller Speed : 500 x 64 x 40 x (35) * If x tt 12 х 70 х бо - 477 inches per minute. Spindle Speed : 500 x 61 x 8 x 20 x 5 82 revs. per 12 x 63 x бо х 62 minute. Total Draft 484 • 98 4.87. Draft between Back Rollers and Fallers = 112 ; 98 = I'14 Draft between Fallers and Front Rollers = 484 • 112 =4'32. The Gauge Point should be worked out with the (35) wheel as the change wheel. 82 X 12 The turns per foot = 2:06 turns per foot. 484 The mangle lifter-plate control should be especially noted. The control of the lifter-plate to effect the re- 65 * A double-threaded screw is employed here, hence double the number of supporting fallers for the required faller speed. 201

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202 (#268) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING quired distribution of the yarn on the bobbin is very important in both drawing and spinning (see p. 247). The intersecting gill-box referred to under (5) is a box employed on the Continent in the gilling of fine wools prior to French drawing. The construction and action of this type of box will be realized from Fig. 59, kindly supplied by Messrs. Greenwood and Batley, Ltd. For some reason or other this box does not seem to find much favour with British spinners. This should certainly be inquired into. 2. The Open Drawing-box-This box consists of back and front rollers with carriers supporting the slivers as they pass from back to front rollers. It is made to several dimensions according to (a) the weight of sliver to be controlled ; () the length and strength of the wool forming the slivers under treatment. The sizes of the bobbins are an important factor, and must be carefully considered (see p. 241). The following calculations with reference to this type of box may be usefully considered :- I. Total draft of box. 19. Carrier drafts and setting. 2. Speed of spindles. 3. Twist. 4. Draft gauge point.” 5. Twist "gauge point." The theory of carrier setting cannot be gone into here, but it should be firmly kept in mind that the wool is always running at one of two speeds-back roller 202

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203 (#271) ############################################ WORSTED DRAWING MACHINES 1 speed or front roller speed and the carrier should be set and speeded with this firmly in mind.* It should be noted that in the drawing-boxes the limit of production due to limit in spindle speed is reached. It is an interesting question to decide exactly where this takes place. The winding of the sliver on to the bobbin due to the washer-retardation of the bobbin as compared with the speed of the flyer is an interesting operation which should be perfectly visualized. It will thus be realized that the revolutions of the spindle go into (a) the sliver as twist; and (6) coils on the bobbin for winding-on. Thus a sliver may be drawn from a bobbin in three ways I. Straight with bobbin revolving. In this case the twist in the sliver is- Revs. of spindle - coils on bobbin. 2. Off one end when the twist in the sliver is - Revs. of spindle 2 (coils on bobbin). 3. Off the other end when the twist in the sliver is - Revs. of spindle + 2 (coils on bobbin). Knocker-off Motion.--In order to balance up acci- dental differences in the weights of slivers it is necessary to have on certain boxes knocker-off motions which stop the box when a previously decided length of sliver * The musk -ox fibre is again a useful example. It carries long hairs (12 in.) of the outer-coat and as the under-coat fibres are only 6 in., the difficulties of ratching and carrier setting are very great. It is found best to ratch to the longest fibres (12 in.) and put a heavy metal carrier to control the bulk of the fibres at 6 in. 203

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204 (#272) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING has been wound on to each bobbin. The bobbins are then weighed on such a balance as that illustrated in Fig. 60, and as the wood bobbins themselves weigh the same, and the lengths of sliver upon these are the same, any differences there may be are due to irregu- larities in sliver. The bobbins are then balanced up against one another and irregularities thus corrected. It is a matter of opinion how often during the drawing processes this should be done. The same idea may also be applied to gill-boxes so that two types of knocker-off motion are in use, viz. 1. The gill-box knocker-off for shorter lengths of thick slivers; and 2. The drawing-box knocker-off for longer lengths of finer slivers. Each motion includes ingenious features which should be thoroughly studied, the first employing the equivalent of the “hunting tooth” and the latter the advantage of a worm and worm-wheel. 3. The Cone Drawing-box.-As fully explained in the succeeding chapter, the basic difference between the cone and open types of drawing-boxes is in the method adopted of positively controlling the speed of the bobbin (a) to "lead” on the spindle-speed in order to take up exactly the sliver delivered by the front rollers and to obviate possible rupture of sliver; and (6) to change this " lead ” according to the bobbin change in circumference, i.e. to change its number of revolutions as it increases in diameter in order to maintain a constant surface or " taking-up” speed. 204

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205 (#273) ############################################ TO WEIGH 50Ls. AVERY NO SPRINGS SEX Fig. 60.-Automatic Bobbin Weighing Machine (50 lbs.)

[[12, 14, "Textile Machine"]]

207 (#275) ############################################ WORSTED DRAWING MACHINES It will further be realized that the variable bobbin speed may involve- (c) a variable, positive but delicate control of the lifter-plate action, in order that a solid, level bobbin may be built up, this being made the basis of the exact changes required, these changes being directly or indirectly effected by the cones ; and (d) variation as required in the indirect action of other parts of the cone-box-such as in the twist inserted --made possible through the delivery with which even fine rovings can be laid on the bobbin with practically no strain at all. The cone drawing or roving box, although not as complex as the mule, has already been treated in nomograph form so that all that need further be illus- trated here is the general plan of a typical box in order that the criticisms which are made in the succeeding chapter may be fully appreciated. In Fig. 61 a plan of such a box is given, by means of which the following prime functions may be realized- I. The constant drive of the front rollers ; 2. The constant drive of the flyers; NOTE : (I) and (2) being constant maintain a constant delivery and twist to the sliver being treated. 3. The direct drive to the bobbin back through the crown wheel; and 3a. The modification of the direct drive of the bobbin by the crown wheel driven through the cones ; а. 205

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208 (#276) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING 72 teeth . . » H I J K L M N 52 50 22 6" 2' = 21 Wheel Let on to Bevel Wheel 50 Spindle Shaft End Wheel Spindle Shaft Wheel Skew Gear Wheel Top Cone Diameter - Bottom Cone Diameter Change Wheel on Bottom Cone On Short Bevel Wheel Shaft To Drive Jack Wheel Jack Wheel Wheel on Jack Shaft Wheel on End of Bobbin Shaft Wheel on Bobbin Shaft Skew Gear on Bobbin Sock . 1 P Q R CHO T - 0 o 75 30 125 72 52 50 22 O . . T U . A B D F 360 x 42 x 30 x 32 Speed of front rollers = 50 X 52 X 120 С E G 46-5 r.p.m. = A R J Speed of spindles 360 x 72 x 50 1132 r.p.m. 52 X 22 Ι K A B D L N P Speed of crown wheel 360 x 42 x 30 x 6" x 21 x 30 50 X 52 X 2 X 75 X 125 С E M Q = 35.1* r.p.m. 75 X A R T Speed of bobbin (351 X 2 360) x 72 x 50 1353 .r.p.m. 52 X 22 S U 4. The French Drawing-box.—This type of draw- ing-box is so likely to become important in the near future that two examples are here given. * The student or overlooker may with advantage add the teeth numbers to each of the respective toothed wheels on the diagram (Fig. 61). 208

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208 (#279) ############################################ WORSTED DRAWING MACHINES . . . Fig. 62 is a plan of the first drawing-box as con- structed by Messrs. Platt Bros., Oldham. As the calcu- lations for such a box are fully given when dealing with the finisher-box the following particulars only are given here, and these may, of course, be verified by calcula- tions based on the figures given on the plan. Ist Draft: carrier on back roller I 03 2nd Draft : porcupine on carrier I•036 3rd Draft: front roller on porcupine 3.909 4th total draft: I•03 X 1.036 X 3.909 = 4:17 The surface speeds for one revolution of the main shaft are- I. Back roller 0142 2. Carrier •01464 3. Porcupine 01517 4. Front rollers •0593 5. Rubbing leathers · *057 6. Winding-on : .056 These figures are interesting as illustrating the various tensions desirable in the meches as they pass through this type of box. In Fig. 63 the plan of a finisher French drawing- box is given, from which the following details may readily be studied Surface speeds for I revolution of the main shaft : 98 x 55 x 38 x 40 x ot 1. Back rollers : 0191 metre. 100 X II2 X 120 X 1000 98 x 55 x 38 x 40 X 40 X 2. Ist carrier : 100 X 112 X 120 X 38 X 1000 •0196 metre. 98 x 55 x 38 x 40 x 27 x tt 3. 2nd carrier : •016 metre. IOO X II2 X 120 X 31 X 1000 98 x 55 x 38 x 31 x 49 x 38 x * 4. Porcupine : 100 X II2 X 120 X 102 X 26 X 1000 =*0104 metre. . 209

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208 (#280) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING 100 X 1000 98 X 22 X TE 5. Front rollers : •0677 metre. 98 x 22 x 75 x ot 6. Rubbing leathers 100 x 78 x 1000 = .065 metre. 98 x 22 x 30 x 34 x 110 x tt 7. Winding-on = .056 100 x 78 x 29 x 60 X 1000 metre. From these particulars the following drafts may be calculated :- 1. Between back rollers and ist carrier : Ist carrier ·0196 = 1.026 draft. Back roller, .0191 2. Between ist carrier and and carrier : 2nd carrier = .016 .852 draft (retardation) ist carrier, .0196 3. Between and carrier and porcupine: Porcupine = .0104 = .623 draft (retardation) 2nd carrier, .016 4. Between porcupine and front rollers : Front rollers •0677 6.5096 draft Porcupine, 0104 5. Between front rollers and rubbing leathers : Rubbing leathers = .065 = .957 draft (retardation) Front rollers, *0677 6. Between rubbing leathers and winding-on : Winding-on = .0556 = .861 draft (retardation) = Rubbing leathers, .065 These details along with such details in the con- struction of the machine as are necessitated by special movements—the rubbing leathers and the balling-head, to wit-should be carefully studied. Note should be made that not only may these following-on drafts be required but also intermediary drafts, as, for example, between the front rollers and the winding on which stands- •0556 = .82 draft (retardation) •0677 The total draft will be- 1•026 X •852 x .623 x 6.5096 = 3.554 total draft 210

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211 (#283) ############################################ WORSTED DRAWING MACHINES This may be checked by- Front-roller speed 0677 Back-roller speed = 3:55 total draft. 0191 Such points as the method of measuring the diameter of the porcupine (and even of the direction of point and running of the porcupine) and the tensions necessary to give the best results should be very carefully con- sidered. In the French roving-box there is a balling-head specially designed to lay the meshes closely side by side from start to finish of each ball (Fig. 66a). The satis- faction and inspiration of efficient work which is thus en- sured is by no means to be ignored, although it is natural for the ordinary overlooker to wish for a mechanism which he can start up without any difficult calculation or the exercising of his possibly lethargic judgment. The following particulars respecting French drawing- boxes may be especially useful in view of the increasing importance of French drawing. Porcupines for French drawing-boxes : Complete Particulars for French drawing machines. PORCUPINES FOR FRENCH DRAWING-BOXES No. of rows of pins. Pins in one row. Birmingham wire gauge. = Set over in mms. (width). = Diameter of shaft. F = Diameter at base of porcupine in mms. G Diameter of fange of porcupine in mms. A B C D E Operation A B C D E F G ist Drawing Box 2nd 3rd 36 47 84 Iña Ito ITE 60 60 бо 4th 20 22 23 25 26 27 44 48 50 40 36 42 44 47 54 240 80 80 70 70 70 IP 52 62 72 5th 6th 17 IM 48 48 48 A 38 The above particulars are for Messrs. Platt Bros.' machines. 2II

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212 (#284) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING The following are particulars controlling the output of the five typical French Drawing Boxes Machine Front Roller Cir. cumference Revs. of Front Rollers Yards per Minute I 2 86 263 71 in. 43 in. 36 in. 3} in. 2# in. 340 358 380 18 33 35 33$ 31 oooo 5 The combination of these individual machines into satisfactory sets of drawing is dealt with in Chapter XI. 212

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213 (#285) ############################################ CHAPTER VIII THE STUDY OF THE VARIOUS TYPES OF WORSTED DRAWING MACHINES THE comparative method of study is here so much to be preferred that no apology is offered for not treating each type of box, with all its details, separately. Vol- umes might be filled with details of drawing machines, but such would only lead to confusion. The critical study of all worsted drawing machines may best be undertaken under the usual simple scheme already employed, viz. :- (a) Creels and sliver feeding appliances ; (6) Passage through the machine mechanisms; and (c) Delivery mechanisms. (a) Creels and Sliver Feeding Appliances.-Slivers may be fed into machines (a) positively, as in the case of the woollen mule ; or (b) by being drawn in from either cans or bobbins or staves, this being the usual method employed in worsted drawing and spinning. For delicate untwisted slivers, positive surface de- livery or drawing-in from delicately balanced bobbins, staves or balls must be adopted. As a rule it will be found that to obtain a satisfactory delivery from a worsted drawing or spinning frame is more difficult than to obtain a satisfactory feed. It is nevertheless most important that there should be no straining of the slivers during the feeding, since irregu- 213

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214 (#286) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING larities introduced there will not only make control of the delivery difficult, but will result in defective slivers and ultimately in an irregular thread. A review of present-day practice with reference to delivery into spinning machines almost completely demonstrates the principles involved. Thus the follow- ing varieties are to be noted :- (a) The woollen mule—surface delivery without any tension ; (b) The French drawing frame-pull from lightly held (upright) balls on staves ; (c) The cone drawing-box-pull from more heavily held (horizontal) or lightly held (upright) bobbins; (d) The open drawing-box-pull from heavily held (horizontal) bobbins. In the case of (a) there must be no strain on the sliver at all. In the case of (6) the arrangement shown results in a draw into the back rollers with practically no straining of the sliver. In the case of (c) as little twist as possible is often inserted during the delivery of the slivers so that as a rule the twist is calculated to ensure a feed without straining of the sliver, and for this pur- pose the upright position of the bobbin is better than the horizontal position of the bobbin, although the horizontal position is more frequently adopted. In the case of (d) the twist is inserted to ensure fibre-control during drafting, and is usually such that the horizontal position of the bobbin may be adopted without fear of any straining of the slivers. Investigations into the strain on a given sliver under the different forms of sliver delivery here referred to, might well be taken in hand. Whatever form may be decided upon in taking 214

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215 (#287) ############################################ TYPES OF DRAWING MACHINES slivers from any machine due deference must be paid to their feed into the next machine. In balling slivers for strong or finishing boxes, or in adopting balling- heads rather than can-deliveries for the gill-boxes of drawing sets of machinery, care must be taken to avoid feathering ”—that is, a roughing-up of the fibres from the edges of the slivers and incorporation into the earlier unwound coils from the ball. Thus the tendency of the wool composing certain slivers to cling (no doubt due to treatment in the earlier processes) may necessitate different forms of delivery and feed. "Can "-delivery for open slivers is usually satisfactory, but it entails additional expense in comparison with ball delivery. In the case of French drawing machinery, if the rubbers are acting efficiently, ball or cheese delivery should be absolutely efficient. The ingenious French method of winding two slivers into one ball of course gives double the pulling-off strength and in the case of the finer meches undoubtedly helps to obviate strained and irregular slivers. Floor space available is another factor to be taken into account—but nothing can com- pensate for inefficiency in either taking-out of or feeding- into worsted drawing machines. (6) The Passage through the Machine Mechan- isms. The parts of the machine here involved arem 1. Back rollers and their control; 2. Fallers, porcupines or carriers; and 3. Front rollers. The construction of the back rollers must be thought out with a clear insight into their functions. Obviously they must- Draw-off the sliver or slivers from the feed mechanism regularly and positively ; 215

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216 (#288) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING Hold the fibre very firmly and yet without any likelihood of grinding or cutting; Present the fibres to the front rollers (aided by fallers, porcupines or carriers) in such a way that they control the fibres until the front rollers take hold and draw the fibres out at the increased drafting speed ; and finally The speeding must be readily under control so that according to the qualities of wool to be treated the drafts required may be readily obtained along with satisfactory control of the fibres composing the slivers. In studying pairs of rollers in combination it will be necessary to consider- The material and build of rollers (top and bottom); The surfaces of rollers (flutings, milled sur- face, etc.); The nature of roller coverings and the method adopted of roller covering ; The sizes and relative sizes of rollers (top and bottom), and The weighting-simple and complex-of rollers. Finally, with reference to drawing boxes it will be necessary to consider- The relative sizes of back and front rollers ; The adjustment of back and front rollers and gills, porcupines or carriers to control drafting; and The angle of roller inclination and the angle of delivery of the sliver to the spindle. The casting of rollers either singly or on a central shaft, the building up of the larger rollers and the turning, for truth of "surface,” of all rollers must be passed over here, but definite reference must at least be made to the materials of which rollers consist. Those accustomed to work woollen mules know that 216

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217 (#289) ############################################ TYPES OF DRAWING MACHINES wool will wear iron. Again those who have had to deal with nicked ” or irregularly worn rollers know to their bitter cost how wool may wear rollers. Of course wrong setting of rollers may make irregular wear of rollers almost inevitable, but with rollers made out of suitable metal it would seem possible to give the worsted drawer easier control of the fibres he has to treat without leaving the fear of the irregular wear of rollers all the time at the back of his mind.* Thus it would seem that here is a field for useful research in which technologist, engineer and metallurgist should combine. Rollers may be made with plain, milled or fluted surfaces. Which of these surfaces is adopted will depend upon the work the roller has to do. As all rollers should nip the wool without rubbing or cutting it, it will be evident that- The nature of the surface of the roller, and The weighting of the roller must between them ensure the required firm nip. Thus, smooth-surface rollers would apparently offer less re- sistance to slipping than rough-surface rollers, rough- surface would control less than, say, one smooth and one fluted roller acting together, one leather-covered smooth roller and one shallow fluted roller would control still better, while two deep-fluted rollers acting together with a leather sheet in between or two leather covered rollers would act better still. Again, hard and soft covered rollers must be carefully studied in view of the work to be done. A careful examination of pairs of rollers in drawing boxes makes it evident that there are three conditions of control exercised :- the • Under certain circumstances it is desirable to traverse sliver to ensure approximately equal wear across the surface of the rollers. 217

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219 (#291) ############################################ TYPES OF DRAWING MACHINES All these frictions give rise to electrification, but if the roller * fibre friction gives rise, say, to negative electrification of the sliver and the fibre x fibre gives rise to positive electrification, then the one may neu- tralize the other. The interesting researches conducted by Dr. Shorter at the University of Leeds on behalf of the University and the British Research Association for the Woollen and Worsted Industries have shown that even the nature of the guide or roller round which the wool passes has an electrical effect, and may add to or take from the tendency of slivers so passed to electrification. The electrical natures of chrome leather and tan leather are so different that it will not do to use either indiscriminately. It is also well to note that certain firms place on the market neutralizing (con- ducting) roller-coverings. These, however, usually con- tain a good conductor (glycerine), and as this becomes sticky in a moist atmosphere their use is very limited. Examination of worsted drawing machines will reveal the fact that rollers for controlling long fibres are soft covered as against rollers controlling short fibres being hard covered. That is to say, that the covering for long wool drafting rollers is first a layer of felt cloth and then the leather outer covering. The reason for this would seem to be that length of grip (roller contact) should bear some relationship to the length of fibre being treated—long fibre, long grip; short fibre, short grip. But again almost rule-of- thumb methods are being employed—there is here also again much room for research. The relative sizes of back and front rollers and their weighting is again a matter of much interest. With the thick, inert slivers entering the back rollers it will be evident that dead weighting will be the best, this resulting in fibre weighting fibre. But if the natural 219

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220 (#292) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING 60 arc weight of the top roller is not sufficient, then rather than add a complex weighting system it may be better to add a third roller in which the tension on the sliver will be increased probably according to the formula given on page 188. With front roller control the con- ditions are very different. To obviate wildness of the fibres as they enter the front rollers (the change of speed of fibres being in proportion to the draft and coming on suddenly) the faller or carrier should be able to act as close up to the front roller as possible. But to effect this small front rollers are desirable. But as the speed of the fibres is to be suddenly increased a powerful nip is necessary. Even mechanical weighting fails to control long wool fibres (over 3 in.) unless acting with, say, a 3 in. or 4 in. roller to give the necessary of contact.” Thus a compromise is arrived at-the metal fluted bottom front roller (driven) is made as small as possible, and the leather covered top roller is made sufficiently large (say 6 in. to 8 in.) to assure a reasonably long arc of contact, and weighted by either springs or hung-on weights. Again this problem has never been satisfactorily faced, little better than rule-of-thumb methods, which have been found by practice to give good results, being adopted. The further adjustment of back and front rollers to control drafting will be best studied by reference to Figs. 58 and 69. It will at once be noted that while in gill-boxes the drive is from the back to the front (more speed of front rollers, i.e. more teeth in change wheel giving more draft), in drawing-boxes it is usual to drive from the front to the back (more speed of back rollers, i.e. more teeth in change wheel giving less draft).* The setting of the carriers between the back > * The reason for this should be clearly thought out. 220

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221 (#293) ############################################ TYPES OF DRAWING MACHINES and front rollers is a problem probably changing with every blend being treated. With the present-day possibilities in perfect blend analysis, however, it should be possible to bring this "setting” down to basic prin- ciples. (c) Delivery Mechanisms-Slivers may be taken from worsted drawing boxes under four conditions :- I. Perfectly open and unconsolidated ; 2. Twistless but consolidated by rubbing; 3. Lightly twisted ; and 4. Heavily twisted. As a rule it is found necessary even with compara- tively thick slivers to consolidate slightly by running them through a revolving funnel or over slightly con- solidating and efficiently delivering guiding plates. Rubbing leathers, however, allow the consolidation of quite fine slivers, say, 1 or 2 drams per 40 yd.-so that such may readily be wound up and subsequently deliv- ered into the back rollers of the succeeding box as already described. When an actual twisting of the sliver is required as in (3) and (4), then the flyer and bobbin system-the old flax wheel spinning system-may be resorted to. This, as already implied, necessitates- (a) Positive drive of flyer and pull-round of bobbin* by the sliver extending from the flyer nozzle to the bobbin ; this necessitating sufficient twist to withstand any strain which may arise at any period of the process from empty to full bobbin; and (6) Positive drive of both flyer and bobbin to obviate any straining of the slivers, under which cir- cumstances condition (3) is readily obtained. * The bobbin being slightly retarded by washers. 221

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222 (#294) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING The action of flyer and bobbin must be perfectly understood-actually felt-by the worsted drawer as he watches his spindles or he will rarely work to the best advantage. This action should be studied at three stages, viz., (a) In its simple form ; (6) In its simple form combined with the condition necessitated by the increase in diameter of the bobbin due to the layers of twisted sliver laid upon it; and (C) In its most complex form in which the basic principle is to be applied with due reference to increase in the diameter of the barrel of the bobbin (leverage) and also to the action of the lifter-rail which from beginning to end should lay the coils of sliver-if possible--closely against one another from the commencement of the empty bobbin to the completion of the full bobbin. The basic idea of the spindle and flyer will readily be understood by reference to Figs. 64 and 65. There are here three possible activities- 1. The sliver may be held taut, when on rotating the flyer the bobbin will be pulled round by the sliver passing from the flyer to the bobbin, and twist will be inserted into the sliver, which twist will distribute itself from the point where the sliver is held on the bobbin to the point where the sliver is next held say the nip of the front rollers ; 2. If on rotating the flyer the sliver is delivered sufficiently quickly the flyer will simply wrap the sliver round the bobbin, the bobbin standing still and no twist being inserted. 222

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223 (#295) ############################################ TYPES OF DRAWING MACHINES 3. If now (1) and (2) be combined it will be found to be quite possible to deliver the sliver at such a rate that :- (a) the bobbin being braked by washers on the spindle and always tending to lag behind will, by lagging behind, wind up upon itself any sliver that may be delivered to it; and further, just so far as the condition of sliver- delivery necessitates, will follow the spindle in its revolution, thus putting in twist. The actual twist is decided by the delivery of sliver in relation to the revolutions of the flyer minus the revolutions necessary for winding-up.” Thus the total turns of the flyer from the beginning to the end of any given bobbin are absorbed in- (i) Twist in the yarn-say 98 per cent. of the total revolutions; and (ii) Coils of yarn on the bobbin-say 2 per cent. of the total revolutions. By pulling the yarn off one end of such a bobbin the whole of the revolutions of the flyer may be transferred into twist in the yarn; or by pulling off the other end of the bobbin the revolutions of the flyer represented by the coils of yarn on the bobbin may be again sub- tracted from the twist, thus- total revolutions of Ayer - coils of yarn on bobbins length in inches turns per i in. The action of flyer and bobbin illustrated in terms of the revolution of the flyer as the unit is illustrated in Fig. 64. The action of flyer and bobbin illustrated in terms of the revolution of the bobbin as the unit is illustrated in Fig. 65. a 223

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224 (#296) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING If it be now taken for granted that each coil of sliver is laid by the lifter action quite close to its neigh- bour then it will be evident that after the first layer b d e 1925 *244 NI Fig. 64.-The positions are drawn in terms of the Flyer with Flyer leading Bobbin 193 A 1223 b 1 去 ​1253 B ! 3 a с . b d Fig. 65.-(A) The positions are drawn in terms of the Bobbin with Flyer leading Bobbin. (B) The positions are drawn in terms of the Bobbin with Bobbin leading Flyer has been well and truly laid on the barrel of the bobbin, the diameter of the barrel will be Diameter of the barrel + 2 (diameter of the sliver) and on the completion of the second layer, the con- dition will be 224

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225 (#297) ############################################ TYPES OF DRAWING MACHINES diameter of the barrel +4 (diameter of the sliver) ; for 3rd layer of the barrel + 6 (diameter of the sliver) ; for 4th layer of the barrel + 8 (diameter of the sliver); and so on. From these diameters the increase in circumference may readily be calculated. Now if the sliver could be fed to the bobbin at an increased rate exactly coinciding with the increase in the circumference of the bobbin, the flyer continuing to revolve at the same rate, the bobbin would also continue to revolve at the same rate. But the actual turns would be the same, therefore fewer turns per inch per unit length. Further, the varied delivery of the sliver would necessitate such complexities that it is apparently not to be thought of—a uniform delivery of the sliver is invariably adopted. Now this means that as the bobbin—layer by layer—increases in circumference it must more and more nearly approach the flyer in speed. The difference between open and cone" drawing may now be readily understood. In "open" drawing the bobbin is so tensioned that while it will not over-run” it will not strain the sliver in its “ lagging behind.” But to ensure this, as already noted, considerable twist must be put into the sliver. Careful consideration of the conditions prevailing at the start and at the finish of the finer drawing or spinning frames will reveal an added difficulty. In "cone ” drawing the bobbin may be positively driven at the calculated rate of increase, or decreased as required. By this means- (a) strain is taken off the sliver and levelness so far as possible ensured ; b) much or little twist may be inserted ; (c) bobbins of any desired size may be employed. P 225

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226 (#298) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING For reasons which may be readily thought out, the control of the bobbin in cone drawing is utilized to drive it faster than the flyer-considerably faster at the commencement of a draw and gradually slower and slower as it increases in diameter. Examination of the “open” and cone ” drawn slivers usually reveals the latter as more open and some- times more regular. But in comparing the two systems the fundamental questions are- 1. Is twist control during drafting an advantage or a detriment ? 2. If twist control is an advantage, to what extent does it (a) strengthen the sliver so that no straining takes place during either delivery or feed ? (b) allow the use of reasonably large bobbins ? (c) ultimately lend itself, if required, to the pro- duction of a full, lofty-handling hosiery yarn ? If twist control were always perfectly decided and exercised it is probable that cone drawing would show little, if any, advantage over open drawing, save in the possibility of employing larger bobbins for the finer slivers. The deterrent complexities of the " cone-box" as compared with the open-box” will be fully realized on referring to pp. 204 to 206. One other matter still requires consideration, viz., the laying of the coils of sliver one against the other by the action of the lifter-plate or rail. It is obvious that here there are three possibilities 1. To lay the coils of sliver exactly side by side. 2. To make no attempt to lay the coils of sliver side by side. 226

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227 (#299) ############################################ TYPES OF DRAWING MACHINES 3. To attempt approximately to lay the slivers side by side. In order to effect (1) it will be necessary to slow down the lifter motion from the first accurate setting to com- pensate for the additional length of sliver per coil- that is, according to the increase in the circumference of the bobbin which will be As r[a + 2 (nt)] : Tea where a = the diameter of the bare barrel of the bobbin and n = the number of coils already placed upon the bobbin, t = the thickness of the sliver. Example If a = 1" (diameter of barrel of bobbin) n = I" and t = "" then As re[a +2 (nt)] : Ta :: Initial speed of lift : speed of lift for 2nd travers = As a [I + 2(1 * £)]: 3.1416 X I = As 3.1416 [1 + 1) :3.1416 As 6•2832 : 3.1416 :: Initial speed of lift : speed of lift for 2nd traverse. This illustrates another of the difficulties involved in cone drawing, for not only must the bobbin be posi- tively driven faster and faster when flyer leads bobbins, or slower and slower when bobbin leads flyer, but the speed of the lifter-plate or rail must be slowed down exactly according to the increased length of the coils being placed upon the bobbin. To effect (2) little forethought will be necessary. The movement of the lifter-plate or rail may be started (a) to lay the coils of yarn actually overlapping one another ; (6) to lay the coils of yarn exactly side by side ; (c) to lay the coils of yarn well apart. . The number of layers to be placed on the bobbins SO 227

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228 (#300) ############################################ lo 18. Reller stand for Sloveng Hame. Fig. 66.-Section of a French Drawing-Box

[[14, 15, "Textile Machine"]]

229 (#301) ############################################ TYPES OF DRAWING MACHINES O Fig. 66a.-Section of a French Finishing Roving Frame with Conical-ended Bobbin 229

[[17, 18, "Textile Machine"], [12, 15, "Textile Machine"]]

230 (#302) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING will decide the relative positions of the last or outer coils on the bobbin. In (c), for example, if an ascer- tainable number of coils n only be placed on the bobbin the coils will be laid exactly side by side* ; but if N +M coils are placed on the bobbin then overlapping of the coils must occur. In the light of the principles here at issue the speed of the lifter in both drawing and spinning machines should be adjusted. It should also be noted that the finest French roving-box and the best thread- winders placed on the market are designed to so vary the traversing of the roving or thread, running on to the barrel or spool driven at a fixed speed, that the layers of roving or thread are laid side by side from the commencement of building of the ball or spool to the completion. With reference to (3), all that need be remarked is that in all textile processes the textile engineer should be clear as to whether he is or is not getting the result sought for. A habit of “ chancing " things is to be strongly deprecated. The final mode of delivery to be dealt with is that employed in the French drawing-boxes (see Figs. 66 and 66a). In this case the basic idea is to ball the sliver on to a "stave " so that without twist it will draw-off well. The slivers on emerging from the front-rollers are rubbed, and thus consolidated, between one or two pairs of rubbing leathers (similar in construction and action to the rubbers employed on the woollen condenser) and then wound, by surface friction, on to staves run horizontally on drums, at a regular rate, a reasonably firm ball of sliver being thus produced. To facilitate both winding-on and pulling-off it is usual to run two slivers together, any tendency the two slivers may have * It is reasonable to expect an overlooker to work to these con- ditions, as he thereby turns off neat-looking full bobbins. 230

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231 (#303) ############################################ TYPES OF DRAWING MACHINES (a) Motor Drive (b) Two-Spindle Gill Box (Loaded) (c) Two-Spindle Draw Box (Loaded) namammarmurhemmmmmmm (d) Four-Spindle Draw Box (Loaded) (e) Flyer Spinning Frame (Loaded) (f) Cap Spioning, Frame (Loaded) (c) Worsted Male Spinoing (Loaded) Fig. 67.-Tachograph Records - 231

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232 (#304) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING to cling together being altogether outweighed by the doubling of the strength of the sliver which traverses the ball during formation and must serve for the pulling of the ball round during the feed into the succeeding box. In the following list comparative particulars of drawing sets for Open, Cone, and French drawing are given- CONTRASTING OPEN, CONE, AND FRENCH * DRAWING PLANTS Type of Machine turned off Drams Weight Total Capital Space Cost of H.P. Cost of OCCU- Build per weekt Roving Machines 1 pied ings I quired te- sq. ft. Open Drawing 4,500 lb. Cone French 4,500 lb. 3,920 lb. 3.5 3.5 5.2 £1,120 £1,950 £1,620 1:496 £305 1,450 £296 1,453 £295 20 27 16 In Fig. 67 are given tracings of Tachograph Records illustrating speed variations in the several types of drawing and spinning machines. Irregularities, as in the case of the mule, are inevitable, but strong endeavour should be made to reduce such variations to a minimum. The reading of what these irregularities mean is very interesting and if successfully achieved may lead to marked improvements in the running of plants. In reading this chapter the worsted drawer will perhaps feel too much is left undecided or even unstated. The truth is that there has been issued too much merely descriptive information; this work and particularly this chapter is a protest against merely rule-of-thumb methods and a plea for the scientific investigation into the many problems here only too casually treated. * Originally appearing in “ The Textile Mercury." † 55$ hours. Pre-war costs. 232

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233 (#305) ############################################ CHAPTER IX WORSTED SPINNING PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE THE worsted drawer starts with the "top," and in order that he may produce a level roving knows that he must start with a well-combed “top” free from the blemishes of broken and short fibres, neps, bits of vegetable matter and any irregularities. Similarly the worsted spinner starts with the “roving," and in order that he may produce a level, sound yarn knows that he must start with a level roving capable of being extended to the count of yarn to which he desires to spin without showing "twittiness,” irregular twisting, or any other of the defects which may be associated with the spun thread. Just as the worsted drawer will, if possible, keep clear of drawing newly combed tops (called “hot” tops), so possibly may the worsted spinner keep clear of newly drawn rovings.* The probable reason for this, viewed in the light of recent researches, is that while the wool fibre is very stable—much more so than has been realized until recently-all drafting pro- cesses do tend very slightly to elongate it and to take out the natural curl of the fibre and thus make it unstable, as it were alive." In addition to this arti- ficially developed physical instability there is the * It is interesting to note that this remark applies only to oil- combed and drawn, twisted slivers treated on the English system; the French drawer, dealing with a dry, untwisted sliver, does not hesitate to spin straight from the roving frame. 233

[[255, 256, "Textile Machine"]]

237 (#309) ############################################ PRINGIPLES AND PRACTICE Example : A (48's quality) cross-bred roving is to be spun to the maximum count. What is the maximum spinning draft which may be employed, the average fibre length being 6" ? 1 + 3.14 X Vo = 8.7 draft required. This rule may also safely be applied to shorter stapled wools. As a rule for these the draft so ascertained will not be the maximum. Especially may the drafts for short fibre be increased when mule spinning is in ques- tion. Under these circumstances the formula given for maximum "drawing draft " then applies. Thus with a 2" fibre = 5.4 draft under the last given rule. But under the drafting rule using F (the average fibre) 31.4 F This latter method may safely be adopted in worsted mule spinning It la IOTT 15.7 draft. 2 With the draft decided the weight of roving to spin to any given count is also readily decided, for Count of yarn = Count of roving required. Draft decided upon Unfortunately count of yarn is given in yards per pound and rovings must be stated in drams per 40 yards. Thus the count of roving required must be further dealt with as follows :- 256 x 40 18-3 dram roving, and as C. of R. C. of R. X 560 C. of R. Count of yarn required is therefore the problem and Draft decided on formula will stand- 237

[]

238 (#310) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING To ascertain roving required from which to spin any given count of yarn, having given the draft 18.3 Count on Yarn = Dram Roving (40 yd.) Draft decided on Example : A draft of 8 is to be given in spinning a 48's count of cross-bred yarn. What roving should be made from which to spin ? 18.3 18:3 48 = 3:05 dram roving. 6 * } (6 The roving twist will have been decided by the rule already given, and as in both frame and worsted mule spinning there is no drafting-twist other than that already in the roving, it will now only be necessary to decide the "angle of twist” required in the yarn and to insert the turns per inch necessary to give this required angle (as shown in Chapter XII, p. 292). It should be remembered, however, that following a line of research conducted by Mr. Foster Pickles and Mr. Hartley at the University of Leeds, the twist- angle for the greatest strength is that of 22° to 25° given by the rule- D Cotangent of Twist Angle, or D TC X Cot. of Twist Angle T, when reciprocal diameter, ratio of circumference to diameter; and = turns per inch. ' bad spin " it may be necessary to twist up to TE X T D = TT T 1 In a 238

[[91, 91, "Textile Machine"], [94, 94, "Textile Machine"]]

239 (#311) ############################################ PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE this angle, but usually the twist will be below this, and in the case of lustres, etc., yarns, as low as possible. Generally speaking for worsted yarns the twist-angles will be Drafting twist 4° to gº Hosiery twist 8° to 16° Normal twist 16° to 24° To decide the lowest possible twist would require knowledge of frictional coefficients on each type of material, effects of twist on strength, weaving strength required, etc. etc. Here again is a large field for research. To decide the arrangement of fibres in the thread is really to select the type of spinning-frame or mule. For all frames direct the fibres away from the spindle during twisting and consequently the fibres have a given "inclination." This is clearly shown by making a warp with, say, 200 threads with fibres pointing in one direction and 200 threads with the fibres pointing in the other direction. The cloth made from this will show stripes just like a "chain-harrowed " grass field. . If in mule spinning the slivers were delivered and the carriage arrived at the extremity of its traverse without any twist being put into the yarn, and then the yarn were twisted, it is quite possible that the fibres would radiate out from the central core of the thread without any specific direction. But, again, this experiment has probably never been tried the insertion of the twist and the slight gain of the carriage in normal worsted- mule spinning will probably be quite sufficient, as a rule, to give a distinct inclination to the exterior fibres. Speed of spin also appears from the following record to affect the fibre arrangement, and it is possible the 239

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240 (#312) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING coming research experiments in photography and the stroboscope may help to reveal the basic differences in flyer, cap, ring and mule spinning. The Construction of Spinning Frames. — The creels and feeding arrangements for these machines are similar to those already described. Care should be taken, however, to select delicate feeding appliances, as the slivers here termed “rovings” are now becoming very thin and may easily be strained. The drafting arrangements are very similar to those employed in drawing, but again, as the rovings when drawn out to the thread-sliver state are very delicate, the most perfect control possible is needed at the nip of the front rollers. This means small rollers and a close working of the last set of carriers into the nip of the front rollers. The extent to which the twist in the roving here introduces or controls agitation is worthy of observation and consideration. The number and arrangement of the carriers must be such that while they do not bind the fibres too strongly, they do present the slowly delivered fibres from the back-rollers to the quickly revolving front rollers in such a way that the fibres going at, say, seven times the speed do not unduly roughen the fibres still coming forward at the slower speed, nor other fibres already travelling riding at approximately the greater speed. The question of wood or metal carriers must be decided with mental vision of the constraint or lack of con- straint on the fibres, following the use of either the one or the other (see p. 203). It is in the delivery mechanisms that the greatest differences between spinning frames are to be noted, although with a given type of delivery mechanism cer- tain styles of rollers will often be found simply because or 240

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241 (#313) ############################################ PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE -- certain mechanisms are specially suited to the spinning of specific types of yarns, thus (a) the flyer frame is usually employed for long lustre wools ; and sometimes for fine Botany wools ; (b) the cap frame is usually employed for cross-bred and Botany wools; (c) the ring frame is usually employed for fine Botany wools. d) the mule is usually employed for fine and short Botany or for fine cross-bred wools. The characteristic features of each of the machines under (a), (b) and (c) are shown in Fig. 68. The action of the flyer and bobbin will be understood from what has already been stated about the flyer action with reference to open and cone drawing. It has ap- parently been found impossible to construct a cone spinning frame, and therefore the size of the spinning bobbin is limited to- Spool Bobbin 54" x 2" 4" x 2" for 8's to 32's, 41" x 11" 31" x 1}" for 32's to 56's, and 31" 3" X I}" for fine Botany spinning; 5" X 1" In the case of the flyer frame, the weight of the flyer and the speed at which the bobbin when full must follow the flyer reduces the maximum speed of this frame to about 2,500 revolutions per minute. By employing specially constructed spindles greater speeds than this have been obtained, but it is more usual to run at slower speeds, thereby producing a more lustrous yarn showing less of a “ beard” on the bobbin. The beard on the bobbin will be indicative of roughness of yarn and will also be detrimental in running the yarn off the bobbin, as well as being unsightly. The modification of the lifter Q 241

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242 (#314) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING RING U b Fig. 68.-The three types of Frame Spinning Spindles o 幕 ​'FLYER CAP a 242

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243 (#315) ############################################ PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE > heart-wheel action (Fig. 72A, p. 249) will bind in the beard of the bobbin, but will not result in a smarter yarn being spun. This gain, however, is usually well worth considering. It will be noted that the spindle speed in all spinning frames is the limit of production, the delivery of the front rollers being controlled to give the required turns per inch of twist. This necessitates the back-rollers being driven from the front rollers or else every modifica- tion in the twist would be accompanied by a modifica- tion in the draft. From the plan of the flyer frame given in Fig. 69 the necessary changing for draft will be realized, and also the conditions of regulating the twist. The cap spindle (Fig. 68b) is in a manner the reverse of the flyer, the bobbin being driven and winding the the yarn--as delivered from the front rollers-upon itself by the action of the air friction and possibly the friction of the yarn on edge of the cap. Thus in this type of frame the spindles must be driven at a high speed (at least 4,000 revolutions per minute and up to 7,000), otherwise the yarn will be softly and insecurely wound on to the spool. This is probably the most "natural" method of all the spinning methods. It is curious to note that while cap spinning has become the method of spinning par excellence for fine Botany and cross-bred yarns it has never proved successful for cotton yarns. This fact again suggests how little is really known about spinning principles, It is obvious that the shape of the cap will be varied to meet two exigencies, viz. : shape of bobbin ; delicacy of thread frictioning. The double-headed bobbin will require a cap shaped 243

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244 (#316) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING as 1, Fig. 70, the weft spool 2, Fig. 70; while 4, Fig. 70, , will tend to leave the “ballooning" thread during spinning entirely in the air and not on the slope of the cap, which may be the position with other shapes of cap. The question, "Why not the converse form for the cap?" may well be asked here. In Fig. 68c the ring spindle arrangement is illus- trated. In this case the ring acts as the definite re- tarding agent. The psychological outlook of the student is well tested by Drawing and Spinning Draft calculations ! especially if he has previously been dealing with Gill- box drafts. For he must throw over his mind on to another“ tack," and unless he is very careful his previous experience will lead him to incorrect results, and, worse still, to a vague outlook on the problem to be solved. The following is a good line to take (see Fig. 69) Basis : 4" front roller 100 draft-revolution for revolution. 1 1" back roller But if F. R. wheel (59) drives B. R. wheel (100), then the draft is increased thus 4" Х 1}" 59 and the double-stud intermediate acts in the same way. Thus the full Draft calculation stands 4" X 100 X 100 6.5 draft. 11" x I 59 X 84 The (59) wheel is the Change Wheel. It will be noted that more gives less”-i.e. that more teeth in the change wheel give quicker running of the back- rollers, and thus less draft. The carrier-drafts may be calculated on similar lines, thus- N 244

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246 (#320) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING a 381•0 Draft (6-5) -50 the change wheel required to give a draft of 6-5. From Fig. 69 the Twist Calculation will be readily worked out, and here also complete control must be attained. The most see-able" method to adopt here is to start from the revolutions per minute of the main shaft and from this obtain (a) The revolutions per minute of the spindles (or flyers), and (6) The inches delivered per minute by the front rollers. Then it will be evident that ő = the turns per inch in the yarn (theoretical). This calculation stands as follows- 1250 x 53 x 10 = 2290 revs. per min. of spindle. .24 Xit 1250 x 53 x 6 x 34 x 4 x at 184 inches of yarn per 24 X 15 X 268 min. delivered by F.R.'s. 2290 = 12.4 turns per inch (theoretical). 184 But it will be noted in this calculation that the numbers 1250, 51 and 24 come in both fractions, and cancel one another. Thus the more direct method is the following, based upon one revolution of the cylinder shaft. 10" - 8 turns of the spindle. it 6 X 34 X 4 X * •63 inches of yarn delivered. 15 X 268 8 .65 12'4 turne per inch (theoretical). 246

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247 (#321) ############################################ PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE An important distinction should be drawn between calculated and actual twist. In fact with reference to all textile machinery there is room for much research on the reason for the marked difference between the theoretical and actual results obtained. An approx- imation of theoretical and actual results should be diligently sought for. With reference to all these spindles and their equip- ment the following points should be specially noted :- 1. the driven parts_flyer or spindle-should be well designed to stand running for years at normal speeds and easily oiled ; 2. the driven parts should be driven under con- ditions which will ensure absolute regularity of running from day to day and week to week -chain drives wherever possible ; 3. the system of control adopted should be certain, easy to manipulate, and should give no occa- sion for the taking-in of grit or for the splash- ing of oil on to the yarn during spinning; 4. the lifter-or ring-rail-should be under delicate control-positive or negative and it should be impossible for it to give any other distribu- tion than that demanded from it* ; 5. the system of yarn-control due to the relation- ship of front rollers and spindles should be such as to give the necessary support to the thread during twisting, and to direct it satisfac- torily to its position on the spool or bobbin. Lifter Motions. The distribution of the delivered thread on to the spool, bobbin or tube is a fascinating * The problem of obtaining a stationary ring-rail in ring spinning is of much moment. Reference is made to this type in Chapter IV. 247

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250 (#326) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING (2) the gradual but permanent fall of the bobbins (without any interference with the 2" pick) as soon as the required built-up diameter has been attained. The action of the mechanism (Fig. 72) to give these two controls will readily be understood. For if the action of the “heart" be followed through, it will be found to give the 2" pick wherever the lifter plate with its bobbins may be (within its limit of movement). Further it will be realized that if the hand-wheel (1) be turned, then, through the screw (f), it will directly elevate or depress the bobbin-rail (g, g), according to the direction of rotation. Thus the slow rotation and withdrawal of this screw (f) from beginning to end of the spin-after the base layers of yarn have been laid on the spool-lowers the spools so that the yarn from the edge of the cap (), from the eye of the flyer, or from the traveller of the ring, is guided higher and higher upon the spool barrel until the required bulk of yarn has been well and truly built upon the spool. It will now be realized that in starting the building of the spool - (3) a short pick must be employed, gradually in- creasing to the long (2") pick; and (4) a suppression of the permanent fall of the bobbins until the 2" pick is attained. It will be noted that (3) is obtained by starting the friction roller (c) at the top position on the "monkey" (d), in which position it conveys the smallest possible traverse to the spool, and gradually increases this as it is lowered through (1) and (e) until it gives the full traverse (or 2" pick). It will be noted that (4) is the result of inactivity of the traversing screw (f) until the friction-roller (c) is in the position to give the full pick (2"). 250

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251 (#327) ############################################ PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE In a mechanism of this type there are so many interesting matters to be studied that the student is Ulkely to overlook the dominant question--viz. what type of a bobbin or spool build is required? A strong warning must be given against this probable mistake. The technologist must decide the type of build he re- quires, and the mechanic must be required to give this. The question may be asked what difference does the winding of the yarn on to the spool, for example, make, so long as it is well wound ? All the difference between success and abject failure! This may seem to be a strong statement to make, but it is absolute fact. The length of the pick and the concomitant length of yarn for each pick decides the variations in tension on the yarn as it is drawn from the spool by the travers- ing of the shuttle during weaving, and this decides the perfection or otherwise of the fabric produced. Prob- ably every width of cloth (in the loom) and possibly every weave should be traversed for specially. Here is room for beautifully delicate researches on "tension- ing " for which it will be necessary to make much more refined "tension indicators” than have been produced up to the present. Mechanical Doffing Methods. -- In the case of Distaff and Wheel spinning one spinner or spinster con- trolled one spindle completely. With the introduction of Billeys and Jennies in which one man or woman controlled from sixteen to sixty spindles, "pieceners and “ doffers " came into being, and as the piecening and doffing were quite simple operations requiring deft fingers and little bodily strength, it was but natural that this work should be relegated to children. If the pleasures which children have experienced in being skilfully useful were placed against the pains which 251

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252 (#328) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING ) they have experienced in being unfairly treated, it is questionable on which side the balance would weigh down. However this may be, some day soon will be illustrated to us the beautiful finger and wrist action involved in both piecening and doffing. In view of the historical development of spinning, it is not strange to find that until recently all spinning frames were built to the stature of the child. Half-time labour is, however, rapidly disappearing throughout the industrial districts, and some means must obviously be found to do the work, particularly “ doffing,” up to the present carried out by the "half-timer.” There are three conceivable methods of doffing, viz. 1. Hand Doffing-unit method (a) Periodic ; (6) Continuous. 2. Hand Doffing-multiple (mechanical) method (a) Periodic; (6) Continuous. 3. Automatic Doffing (not attempted so far). Reasoning the matter out carefully, it is evident that almost any mechanical doffer of the second class will be more complex than the machine from which it doffs, and consequently one would expect the frame to be designed to the doffer and not the doffer to the frame. This line is almost taken in the mechanical doffers of most recent construction. There is, however, a more fundamental line of reasoning than this which cannot well be pursued here. Dealing now entirely with the second class, it will be noted that there are the two types of doffer in evidence, viz., (a) Doffers designed to doff from the normal spinning frame; (6) Doffers and spinning frames designed with doffing fully in view. 252

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252 (#329) ############################################ 1 Fig. 73.—The Arnold-Forster Mechanical Flyer Doffer

[[6, 9, "Textile Machine"]]

253 (#331) ############################################ PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE Up to the present mechanical doffing has only been applied to the Flyer and Cap frames, and as the former presented fewer difficulties it has been tackled first. RAFO avec Fig. 73a.--Section of the Arnold-Forster Mechanical Doffer (Made by Messrs. Hall and Stell) Mr. Percy Clough's flyer doffer was certainly one of the first, and it is interesting to note that it is still running. It probably owes its success to the fact that it modifies nothing in the normal flyer frame, 253

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254 (#332) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING so that in no sense does it interfere with the produc- tion of the finest lustre yarns on the "open-top" spindle. Mr. Arnold-Forster's flyer doffer (as made by Messrs. Hall and Stell) came next. In this case the spindle was modified, being top driven with its bottom end sup- ported in the frame. This has proved markedly successful in all cases save possibly that of the finest lustre spinning. The Aked-Prince-Smith flyer doffer (Figs. 74a and 74b) is even more drastic than the Arnold-Forster, not only employing the top driven spindle, but also separ- ating the spindle from the flyer. This introduces two difficulties, viz., the extra friction on the bobbin of a stationary spindle and the difficulty of obtaining a bearing which will reasonably withstand the stress of the flyer-drive. It presented one great possibility, however, of which full advantage was taken. At this stage it became evident that the idea of doffing from the spinning spindles and refilling with empty bobbins or spools might be supplanted by doffing by the "rail," i.e., removing a rail of full bobbins from the spinning position and putting in its place a rail of empty bobbins. Thus the two types of doffing are :- 1. Bobbin Interchanging Doffing. 2. Spindle Rail Interchanging Doffing. A further development of the latter method by Mr. N. R. Newsholme for both flyer and cap mechanical doffers makes perhaps the simplest and most effi- cient doffer. It may almost be described as another type, e.g. 2(a). Spindle Rail (Fixed Path) Doffing. With all the doffers included in types I and 2, either 254

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255 (#333) ############################################ PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE OIL Fig. 74a Fig. 74b Figs. 74a and 74b.-The Aked-Prince-Smith Flyer Doffer Spindles 255

[[15, 18, "Textile Machine"]]

256 (#334) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING the full bobbins or the full bobbin spindle rails are transferred to doffing position out of fixed paths from spindles or lifter rods to receiving pegs placed in front of the frame; the empty bobbins or empty bobbin spindle rails are transferred to spinning position, from another set of pegs placed in front of the frame, to either spindles or lifter rods. For the first time in type 2(a) the rails both during spinning and doffing are worked on fixed slides from which it is impossible for them to deviate, the falling rail also balancing the rising rail during doffing. Mr. Newsholme claims to effect the doffing with five movements as against more than three times that number in the case of other frames; and it must certainly be conceded that a marked advance has been made in simplifying the machine. Cap frames do not lend themselves to mechanical doffing so effectively as flyer frames. Many attempts have been made to mechanically doff cap-spindle, and broadly the evolution has been similar to that observ- able in the case of the flyer frame. In applying the principle of Spindle Rail Doffing, type 2(a), Mr. Newsholme in the first type made construc- tion to include duplicate spindle rails, duplicate tubes and duplicate lifter plates. In the second type, the spindles are lowered out of the way, and duplicate rails (which are out of engagement during spinning) carry the duplicate set of tubes along fixed slides from spinning to doffing position and the reverse. In Fig. 73 the Arnold-Forster doffer is illustrated as being typical of the “individual spindle doffing type. In Fig. 74b the Aked-Prince-Smith Flyer doffer is > 256

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258 (#336) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING illustrated in its latest form. As designed in Fig. 74a it was found to interfere with the lustre of English and Worsted yarns; but it is claimed that the special construction shown in Fig. 74b overcomes this defect. In Fig. 75 Newsholme's Cap doffer is illustrated as being typical of the “rail spindle doffing " type. If these two main types are to be further modified it may be expected that such modifications will take the line of - (a) Mechanical doffer design being dominant, the whole spinning frame being designed to fit the doffer, and not, as in the present types, the doffer being fitted to the frame ; (b) True automatic doffing, which will probably only become possible when (a) is much further advanced than at present. Up to the present, continuous doffing either of spindles or rails has not been found satisfactory, but the idea should not be entirely ruled out: there may be possibilities for this in true automatic doffing. THE OUTPUT OF SPINNING FRAMES.- This matter has already claimed attention in Chapter IV; here only the two matters of doffing and cleaning time, and waste, call for comment. In worsted spinning, doffing and cleaning time call for a reduction from the theoretical production of a frame of from 5 per cent. to 10 per cent. The method of charting the theoretical production and the necessary deductions is worthy of careful study ; there are other methods than those illustrated in Chapter IV. The waste allowance will be markedly affected according to whether the roving is being spun out to its limit or not. This also should be charted,” and be incorporated in the final chart dealing with spinning- room production. 258

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259 (#337) ############################################ PRINCIPLES AND PRACTICE THE WORSTED MULE If the woollen mule needs a monograph so does the worsted mule. In fact, one has only to take up the astounding publications of some of the Continental firms to realize what amateurish publications are all too frequently issued in this country. The essential difference between the woollen and the worsted mule goes back to the character of the fibre spun on each- short and long respectively. Now the long fibre (and a short worsted fibre is usually long in comparison with a condensed woollen fibre), usually treated on the worsted mule :- (a) Allows of the introduction of roller-draft pre- vious to the spindle and carriage action; and (6) Limits the spindle-draft to a slight "gain ” of the carriage of from 1 in. to 2 in. Perhaps there should here be added - (c) The finest wool yarns-over roo's worsted count -are possibly best spun on the worsted mule, necessitating delicate delivery action and fine adjustments throughout. Everything follows from these three points. Draft- ing rollers are added-their action being controlled from the headstock—their size being such as to control the shortest possible fibres; as no draft-twist is needed there is no double-speed of the spindles, the usual speed of 4,000 to 5,000 revolutions per minute being main- tained throughout the draw; the front rollers deliver throughout the outward movement of the carriage, the arrival of the carriage at the end of its draw is the signal for the backing-off and the running-in ; and if each movement is carefully followed it will be found that easements and mechanical refinements are introduced 259

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260 (#338) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING such as are usually unknown to the ordinary woollen mule. In Fig. 76 an idea is given of the complication of the mechanism. As the worsted mule is almost entirely engaged on worsted counts, the pitch of the spindle is usually about If in., and from one headstock 900 spindles may be controlled. The production of the mule and its accom- panying French machinery is as follows Heilmann Comb: 160 lb. to 200 lb. (per day of 12 hrs.) Finisher Gill-box per head : 140 lb. to 150 lb.. ( ) Finisher Drawing-box (double sliver per head) : 9 lb. for 4.2 dram roving ) Mule: Warp Yarns : 3,800 to 4,000 yds. Weft Yarns : 4,100 to 4,200 yds. ( 260

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262 (#342) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING a are also liable to give rise to irregularities-usually “ repeating "irregularities—unless the greatest care is taken in the dyeing. Almost without exception yarn- dyeing is limited to worsted yarns, although it is evident that twofold woollen yarns might also be so treated. There is a form of cotton weft dyeing (specially employed for gabardines) which should here be noted. The yarn to be employed as weft is made into a warp of such a length that one thread will just fill a weft spool. It is then dyed in the warp form and subse- quently wound on to the weſt spool thread by thread, spool by spool. It is obvious in this case that the utmost care should be taken in dyeing the yarn in this form, since if this is “ended," i.e. if the tail-end of the warp is darker or lighter than the head-end, the piece will be “weft- barred,” for in the cloth the tail-end will finish a bobbin width and the head-end will start a bobbin width, so that tail-end and head-end will come against one another as a straight-edge in the cloth. To avoid this such a warp is usually doubled several times for dyeing treatment. Slubbing-dyed wool (6) will ultimately all be worsted yarns, the wool being dyed after combing,* and the yarn usually re-combed after dyeing.† Until quite recently slubbings have been dyed in the open "hank” form, but to-day many "tops” are dyed in the “top” form. When this latter method is adopted sometimes no second combing is deemed necessary- the tops are passed straight away through the gill- boxes to the drawing-boxes. Re-combing, however, is the usual method adopted in the worsted industry. Wool-dyeing (a) is almost invariably employed in * If dyed before combing too much felting takes place. † There will be small quantities of re-combing (coloured) noils. ( or 262

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263 (#343) ############################################ COLOURED YARN PRODUCTION the woollen industry for fancy goods, i.e. where piece- dyeing is not admissible, but it is rarely employed in the worsted industry-probably because the “felting” which results from dyeing loose wool would result in such a poor" tearage”-obviously the“ straightening” which follows from combing prevents felting. Note should now be made that there are three types of coloured yarns in everyday use, viz.- (a) Solids; (6) Mixtures (fibre and melange); (c) Twists. The production of solid coloured yarns will be well realized from the foregoing, but mixtures and twists must be further considered. Mixtures (6) may be almost solid colours with a "cast"; or true mixtures in which very different colours are blended together to give a fine spreckled appear- ance, which appearance, of course, merges into a solid colour some little distance away. In woollen and worsted yarns the mixture effect is most frequently due to differently coloured fibres Woollen mixtures being produced by mixing two or more differently dyed wools together in the fibre form, thus resulting in a fibre-mixture yarn; and Worsted mixtures being produced by mixing two or more differently dyed slubbings (i.e. tops) together, thus resulting in a fibre-mixture yarn. Given level, fast dyeing, in both cases there only remains the mixing, which must be most perfectly effected if level pieces are to be produced from these yarns. With worsted yarns-usually longer fibred than woollen yarns the difficulties of producing regular mixings are so great that sometimes mixing on the comb is resorted to notwithstanding the possibilities 263

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271 (#357) ############################################ CHAPTER XI SETS OF DRAWING AND SPINNING MACHINERY-CALCU- LATIONS FOR OUTPUT SETS of drawing machinery may be designed in accord- ance with (a) Type of machine-Open, Cone, French ; or (6) Type of material to be treated—English, Cross- bred, Botany, Hosiery, etc. Although, fundamentally, the material to be treated is the deciding factor, it may be well in the first place to have in view particulars of typical sets of machines, from the study of which to obtain suggestions that ultimately may be reasoned back to the basic principles involved. The following problems—involved in the foregoing and succeeding particulars-are worth reasoning out carefully - 1. The relative numbers of boxes, spindles and heads to follow one another in any or every set of drawing; 2. The methods of feed for the several distinctive boxes ; 3. The sizes of bobbins ; 4. The relative output, floor space, power consump- tion, and cost of typical sets of machines; 5. The method of arrangement of a drawing and spinning shed, and of typical sets of machines. 271

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272 (#358) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING 1. The balance of a set of drawing is primarily dependent upon the following factors : (a) Speed of delivery from preceding box to the box under consideration ; (6) Speed of intake or delivery of the box under consideration ; (c) The effects of doubling ; (d) The effects of drafting; (e) The effects incident upon the foregoing, such as twist, theoretical and actual speeds, etc.; () The effects of " doffing," " stoppages,” etc. The principles involved will be most clearly realized if in the first place (a) and (b) “ sliver speeds” are taken to be the same ; i.e. the speed which a sliver is delivered from a preceding box just feeds the speed of intake of the succeeding box. Under these circumstances the domin- ance or otherwise of draft over doublings in the succeed- ing box will decide the spindles of the succeeding box. There are three possible conditions :- 1. Doubling exceeding draft : say four slivers up with a draft of two; 2. Doublings and draft equal : say four slivers up with a draft of four ; 3. Doublings exceeded by draft : say four slivers up with a draft of eight. It will be obvious that, in the first case, the sliver de- livered will be half the lengths of the slivers going into the box, as graphically shown in Fig. 81 (a). In this case, if box I is a two-spindle box, box 2 need only be a one- spindle box—there would actually be reduction in the spindlage from first to last in a set of drawing designed on this basis. But the sliver would get thicker rather than thinner ; so that it may be taken that this method 272

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273 (#359) ############################################ PIANI SETS OF MACHINES may only be employed to a very limited extent in draw- ing boxes for "levelling” as distinct from “ reducing." Here again research is necessary to decide whether this method-draft less than doublings-does result in levelling ; some overlookers hold that too little draft is almost as unsatisfactory as too much draft. In the second case, it will be obvious that as doublings and draft exactly balance, the spindlage should be exactly the same from first box to last box. But there a I REV 2 REV etike 2YDS FOR 4 DRAMS-2 DRAMS PER YO E 3 Treen de 123 b 1 REV 4 REVS 4YDS FOR 4 DRAMS: I DRAM PER YO ke at 4 SUVERS TYD. LONG EACH I DRAM. PER YARD EACH dor Syarat с I REV BREVS 8 YDS FOR 4 DRAMS: Y2 DRAM PER YD IST - Fig. 81.-Illustrating principles of Doubling and Drafting in Worsted Spinning TA he i would be no reduction in the thickness of the sliver- it would come out of the last box the same thickness it entered the first box (Fig. 81 (b)). In the third method, the draft of eight would result in the sliver delivered by box 2 (Fig. 81 (c)) being double the length of that delivered by box 1; so that speeds of front rollers being the same the spindlage would have to be increased exactly in accordance with the dominance of draft over doublings, viz., as 4:8. ? 1 S 273

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274 (#360) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING Tentative Rule.--In any drawing boxes in sequence, the succeeding heads or spindles will balance the preceding heads or spindles if varied- As doublings in succeeding boxes : drafts in succeeding boxes. Example : Required the number of spindles in 4th box to follow one spindle in 3rd box, the 4th drawing box having doublings 4, draft 6. As 4 : 6::1:* = i} spindles in succeeding box required to keep up with preceding box (sliver speeds being the same in each case). Two points at once come into prominence here. In the first place, I} spindles is an awkward number to place in a box-the spindles or heads would probably be increased to two, or one head or spindle employed with the sliver speed increased 50 per cent. These points will be considered a little later, The second point is that usually it will be desirable to take a suitable number of spindles in one of the boxes, and to work out the heads or spindlage backwards and forwards in accordance with the above principle, and also in accordance with the further influencing factors still to be dealt with. As a rule, the first drawing-box-usually a four-spindle box-will be made the basis of the calculation. It should be noted that the rule given above will apply to any box in the set, the doublings and drafts of the boxes in between being the deciding factors. Thus with the following- Box 1 2 3 4 Doublings 4 4 3 Draft 4 5 6 6 the number of heads or spindles in box 4 to follow one head or spindle in box 1 will be : As (4 X 3 X 2) : (5 x 6 x 6) ::1:x = 7'5 spindles in box 4. 2 274

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275 (#361) ############################################ PL101 SETS OF MACHINES Thus an 8-spindle box would be employed but for the fact that there are other factors influencing the result still to be considered. ar ta ܘܬܗܘܢ ܀ ber nice ork cumplir umber be De The next factor will be best understood by elimin- ating drafts and doublings—by supposing that they are equal and thus neutralize one another—and considering the effect of length delivery (relative sliver speed) by preceding and succeeding boxes. Thus again three conditions may be supposed, viz. : I. Sliver speed of box 1 being greater than sliver speed from box 2; 2. Sliver speed of box 1 being equal to sliver speed from box 2; 3. Sliver speed of box 1 being less than sliver speed from box 2. In the first case the heads or spindles in the suc- ceeding box must be increased in proportion as box 1 dominates box 2. In the second case the heads or spindles in the preceding and succeeding boxes will be equal. In the third case the heads or spindles in the succeeding box would be less in proportion as box 1 is dominated by box 2. his domination we have already used to make up for the lack of a spindle in the example given on p. 274. Tentative Rule.-In any drawing-boxes in sequence the succeeding heads or spindles will balance the preceding heads or spindles if varied- As sliver speed of succeeding box : sliver speed of preceding box. Example : Required spindles in the 4th box to follow one spindle in the 3rd box, the relative sliver speeds of boxes 3 and 4 being as 1 : 2 respectively. As 2 :I:: 1 : x = spindle in succeeding box to keep up with preceding box. och CP t E DE . JUS BE 275

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276 (#362) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING a The same principle will hold good for a set of boxes, excepting that intermediate speeds must not be taken into account, the number of spindles being varied according to the sliver speeds of the first and the last boxes, even if several boxes come in between these. In the two following lists the delivery sliver speeds for lustre and cross-bred open sets of drawing are given. List IX : 32's TO 40's LUSTRE: PREPARED AND COMBED Dia. of Revs. Yds Box. Fr. Ri. per min. per min. 3' Double-headed Can Gill-box . 2 Spindle Gill-box Drawing-box Drawing-box Finishing-box Roving-box 82 90 70 62 50 40 21.5 23:5 36.6 32.5 26.2 21 6" List X: 44's TO 50's CROSS-END: CARDED AND COMBED Dia. of Revs. * Yds. Box Fr. Ri. per min. per min. Double-headed Can Gill-box 95 20.6 2 Spindle Gill-box IIO 24 Drawing-box 85 37 Drawing-box 72 31.4 Finishing-box бо Reducing-box Roving-box 16.6 NN outon 26 20 46 38 The above particulars show that the effects of sliver speed vary very much in any set. Thus between the can gill-box and the roving-box in the lustre set there is practically no difference, while between the can gill- box and the first drawing-box there is a very marked difference. The latter boxes in each set show the re- duction in "sliver speed delivery” to harmonise with the spindle speed-hence the present tendency to build lighter flyer or even ring roving-boxes. Note the effect of " twist control" on the size of the front rollers. 276

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277 (#363) ############################################ ED SPAV SETS OF MACHINES for a sté must not being he first z iz betet The following rule takes both the foregoing factors nto account:- Rule.-As doublings in succeeding boxes : drafts of succeeding boxes. As sliver speed of last box : sliver speed of given box. :: Spindles in given box: spindles in required box, Example : The following doublings, drafts and sliver delivery speeds are employed. Find the spindles in the 8th box to follow 2 heads at the ist box. TelSITE D ARDUI List XI: 64's BOTANY: CARDED AND COMBED 00 Double-headed Can Machine. Dia. F.R. 40 # I 2 aw 36 Gill-box 130 22:6 24 2 basis 2 Sp. Gill-box 164 28.5 28 107 Ist Drawing 98 34 2nd Drawing 34 107 84 29.2 3rd Drawing 30 2:9 78 27.2 28 Finishing 4.65 | 10 62 21.5 20 Reducing 13 54 14.1 14 2 56 Roving 96 44 II.5 12 230 240 Cap Spinning Frame 3' (5000 13.9 14 I 1380 1500 spds.) The calculation for roving spindles to follow 2 heads can gill-box stands As (5 X5 X4 X4 X3 X 2 X 2) : (5 x6x6x6x6x6 x7) * and As 24 :: 2 : 4 = 230 roving spindles to follow 2 heads can gill-box 2 The individual calculations for this set are as follows: 2 spindle Gill-box : 5 x 24 x 2 I•7 spindles 5 X 28 I2 . the 7- arki 6 x 28 x 1.7 Ist Drawing-box: = 1•7 spindles 5 X 34 2nd Drawing-box: 6 X 34 X 1.7 = 2.9 spindles 4. X 30 نمی شه DIE 277

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278 (#364) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING 6 X 30 X 2.9 3rd Drawing-box : 4•65 spindles 4 X 28 6 x 28 x 4.65 Finishing-box : = 13 spindles 3 x 20 6 X 20 X 13 Reducing-box : 56 spindles 2 X 14 7 X 14 X 56 Roving-box : = 230 spindles 2 X 12 Spinning frame : 7 X 12 X 230 I X 14 1380 lap spindles One example will demonstrate that although all doublings and drafts between any two boxes must be taken into account only the delivery speeds of the two boxes concerned must be taken into account the inter- mediate delivery speeds having no effect. Example : Required spindles in reducing-box to follow 2.9 spindles in the 2nd drawing-box ? 29 x 30 x 6 x 6 x 6 - 56 spindles in reducing-box to 14 X 4 X 3 X 2 follow 2.9 spindles in and drawing-box. Over-all measurements and the weights of the re- spective flyers should be taken into account, as well as the empty and full weight of the bobbins and the relative leverage between nozzle and bobbin surface empty and full. Thus it is evident that here are many most interesting problems. It is, however, the textile engineer's job to face these problems : some have already been faced and the difficulties surmounted, but it is possible that even the cursory glance at drawing and spinning machinery taken in this book may prove useful to those engineers who are determined to act on the principle that "that which is not best is wrong. " 278

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279 (#365) ############################################ SETS OF MACHINES 61" 8.9 5}" 9.8 12.8 9.2 10:2 31" 31" 6 I.1 2.6 1.9 The worsted spinner working exactly in accordance with the principles laid down throughout this work will obtain the following results--- which the practical spinner will usually at once recognize as nothing more nor less than his own practical particulars. List XII Quality 28's | 32's | 36's 40's | 44's *44's 48'u Max. Countst 14's 19's 25's 30's 40's | 34's 36's Av. Fibre Length(Roving) 8" 7" 67" 81" 161" Spinning Draft 8.9 8.5 8.2 Roving (Drs. per 40 yd.). 8.8 6.5 5.4 4.5 4.6 4'2 Quality 50's, 56's , 58's 60's | 64's 70's 80's Max. Countst 38's 45's 52's 54's | 64's ' 76's 100's Av. Fibre Length(Roving) "5" 41" 41" 41" 3 Spinning Draft 7.8 7.5 75 73 6.6 6.4 Roving (Drs. per 40 vd.). 307 2:4 1.5 The above drafts are based upon the formula I + πVF but in many cases as a final spinning draft the formula I+VI may be employed; while for the final draft on the worsted mule the formula 30 F will not prove excessive. The worsted drawer, however, must use his judg- ment in deciding exactly what line to pursue, taking all the factors into account and weighing each. The question now arises—what number of spinning spindles will be required to follow the y roving spindles. This calculation may well be worked out on the theoretical basis already given, and then the theory criticised in the light of practical experience. Taking a 64's quality of material as a basis, the following par- * Carded qualities from here. † The counts are for the finest qualities of the wools in question-- a low 6o's (robo" diat.) will only spin to about 48's (see p. 230). TT 279

[]

280 (#366) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING ticulars for counts ranging from 10's to 8o's are worked out. All necessary details are included in the follow- ing list. 10 I2 20 II 2.2 2 2.6 18 / 19 1 1 1 I I List XIII Count of Yarn (Worsted) 10's, 15's, 20's 30's 40's 50's 60's 70's 80's* Turns per r' (189) 7 8 14 16 18 19 Calc. Sliver Speed (5,000 revs.) yds. per min. 20 17.5 14 11.6 10 8.7 7.8 7.3 7 Draft (1 + # WL). 6 6: 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 Dram Roving (40 yds.) 703 5.5 36 2-3 1.8 1.6,1.37 Roving turns per 1" (69 9 I'I 13 1.6 1.8 2.2 2.4 Calc. Slivers Speed (1,400 revs.) yds. per min. 43 35 30 24 21 19 16 15 Roving Spindles 1 I 1 Spinning Spindles . 12 to 14 throughout. These particulars must not be applied indiscrimin- ately, but are rather to be made the basis of criticism. Thus 43 yards per minute for an ii dram roving is a higher speed than any so far indicated. All the same, with an 11 dram per 40 yards roving the twist required for 6° is only .9, and with a spindle speed of 140 revs. per minute 43 yards per minute will be delivered. Is front-roller speed here the limit ? Or would the sliver stand the speed ? Why should this difference between theory and practice be ? * * * The matters referred to under 2 and 3 (p. 271) have already been referred to at length, but in passing it may be noted that the question of cans versus balling heads must be solved in the light of efficient delivery of slivers (without feathering at the edge), and economy of equipment it may often be better to pay for coiler cans rather than to risk inefficient conveyance of slivers from one box to another and inefficient delivery. The sizes of bobbins (or staves in the case of French drawing) is bound up with the question of horizontal or vertical delivery into the boxes, as well as with * Above 40's count an angle of 20° is best. 280

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281 (#367) ############################################ SAN List XIV.-PARTICULARS FOR PRODUCING A 24 DRAM (40 YDS.) ROVING OF 64's QUALITY (WARP) BALANCED FOR 2/34's, SPUN FROM 1/38's. Operation Machine I 7903 15.3 15 6.0 6.6 4 4 244 2:5" 2.5" 2 86.0 18.8 18 6.0 5.5 4 4 207 200 2 Double Head Can Gill-box 2, 2-sp. Gill-box 6-sp. Drawing-box 8-sp. Drawing-box 2, 6-spindle Weighing-box 14' X 9' 14' X 9' 4" 75.4 26.2 • 26 5-6 4 3:9 6*1 154 224 4 4" 73:1 25.5 25 5.6 4 5.68 I15 14' X 8" 266 5 4" 53:7 18.75 18 6:1 4 I2 12 76 250 13" X 90 6 1, 6-sp:} Finisher 4' 54.8 19.2 19 5.8 22*2 * 3 14** 39.5 372 II" X 6" 7 3, 20-sp. Ist Rover 62:1 21.7 21 5.6 3 37.2*2 60*2 22:0 648 8 6, 28-sp. 2nd Rover 4" 41.0 14:3 14 5.6 2 156 168 707 864 9' X 5' 7 X 4" 6'.X 31 9 12, 36-sp. Reducer 4" 31.3 10:9 Ιο 6:1 666*2 2 432*2 2:5 1,200 to 1,400 *1 The change from the gill-box to the drawing-box with carriers in the place of fallers. ** The increase in spindle speeds possibly accounts for these three discrepancies. The effect of adding or, subtracting even one sliver in doubling should be taken into account. 281

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282 (#368) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING the difference in control of bobbin between open and cone drawing. The necessary particulars are included in the following: f 4. The Relative Output, Floor Space, Power Con- sumption and Cost of Typical Sets of Machines.- Here there are so many possibilities of variation that one or two typical cases only may be considered. The most typical case will be that of a set of open drawing to work a typical 60's Botany top (say, 4 oz. per 10 yd.), the yarn required being anything from 1/20's to 1/48's with the corresponding twofold yarn. If the set is likely to be required for mixing several qualities in the grey or several differently coloured tops, three gilling operations will be required, viz.- Can Gill-box; Can Gill-box; 2-spindle Gill-box. The three gilling operations will be followed by seven drawing operations. The first of these drawing-boxes may be either a 2-, 4-, or 6-spindle drawing-box. Now although the 2-spindle box is made, a 6-spindle box is so obviously more economical that, in this case, this is made the basis of the set. The problem must now be faced of adjusting the production of (a) the preceding Gill-boxes and (b) the succeeding drawing-boxes to this "base-unit." To do this the following details are necessary (see List XIV, p. 281) The foregoing particulars should be carefully scru- tinized in the light of what has already been advanced. The effects of increasing or decreasing the number of doublings should be actually worked out and the results tabulated for future reference. Doffing and cleaning, etc., time should also be considered. Thus 282

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283 (#369) ############################################ SPIN OUTPUT, FLOOR SPACE, POWER TEER TE 422 Powe 7222 Herzi 02.2 Com ܐܐܐ will the worsted drawer not only be fully acquainted with the theoretical possibilities of his machine, but he will also know where they recede from the actual possibilities; thus may he be able to obtain the maxi- mum output with the greatest drawing and spinning efficiency. The twisting spindles will usually be decided by the rule Spinning spindles Ends folded together Twisting spindles. Sometimes owing to the superior speed of twisting spindles fewer may be required to follow the spinning. In flyer spinning, for example, followed by ring twisting the spindle speeds must be taken into account; thus- Spinning spindles x Spinning spindle speed Ends folded x Twisting spindle speed Approximate Twisting spindles required. The output of a set of drawing and spinning similar to the foregoing may readily be obtained from the foregoing particulars with allowances which should be actually ascertained for each set in each mill. The following may be taken as questionable bases :- Count] To's 15's 20's 30's 40's 50's 60's Efficiency 70 72 74 76 78 80 82 The calculation-based on the spinning of the Botany standard yarn, viz., 48's—will stand- a (yd. per min.) x 60 x 16 x 82 = b oz. per hour per 48 x 560 X 100 spindle. Thus for the full set of drawing and spinning for one hour the production could be- Xc (spindles) x 48 16 (oz. per lb.) d lb. per spindle per week. sobie 02 1 283

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284 (#370) ############################################ WOOLLEN AND WORSTED SPINNING The worsted drawer is strongly recommended to scheme out his sets of machines, drafts, doublings, etc., on the lines here indicated rather than to follow any empirical rules of which he has little or no intelligent grasp. See everything in the mind's eye but check the imagination-which sometimes may lead one wrong --by actual trial. But imagine !!! The following particulars respecting spinning plants are both interesting and illuminative. List XV.--CONTRASTING FLYER, CAP, RING AND MULE SPINNING PLANTS * Machine lb. sq. ft. 45 Flyer Frames Cap Frames Ring Frames Mules 4,000 4,500 4,500 3,920 5'2 2,400 £2,625 2,000 £410 35 1,800 £1,350 1,480 £300 58 3:5 2,000 £1,500 1,650 5'2 2,800 £1,480 5,000 £1,020 33 £335 a 5. The Method of Arrangement of a Drawing and Spinning Shed and of Typical Sets of Machines.- There are three methods of spacing out such sets of machines as those dealt with in the foregoing, viz. :- 1. To arrange the machinery as seems best and then to cover in with a suitable roof supported by pillars conveniently placed and flooring “aisled ” according to requirements; 2. To put up a shed or building and then arrange the machinery to put into this shed ; 3. To combine and adjust 1 and 2. * Originally appearing in the Textile Mercury. † Pre-war costs. 284

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285 (#371) ############################################ 1 DRAWING AND SPINNING MACHINERY Needless to say, 3 is much the best method. As a rule the shed and equipment will be worked out in the following order and finally the necessary adjustments made :- 1. Selection of sets of machinery in accordance with the nature of the material to be spun and the required output; 2. Arrangement of (a) the individual machines, (6) the sets of machines, and (c) drawing, spinning and twisting machinery to ensure the least possible handling of the material ; 3. The scheming of the roof with its supports if a shed and of the several floors if a storied building ; 4. The scheming of the drives and the power plant ; 5. Selection of the material and scheming of the surface of the shed floors ; 6. Arrangement of the trolley ways or overhead rails if required ; 7. Scheming of the heating and artificial lighting with water leads where necessary ; 8. Scheming of the ventilation and atmosphere control; 9. Scheming of such storage as may be necessary for (a) tops; (b) rovings; and (c) yarns ; 10. Scheming of yarn warehouse, packing, etc. Upon each one of these points a book could almost be written, and almost every section calls for research. If, for example, a spinner could depend upon the spinning room atmosphere for the con- ditioning of the yarns and never attempt to add condition locally, many most grievous and costly claims for damaged pieces would never arise. 285

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285 (#372) ############################################ Details of French Drawing Machinery Ist Drawing 2nd Drawing 3rd Drawing 8 Bobbins 8 Bobbins 12 Bobbins Reducer Slubber First Inter. Second Inter. Roving Finisher Roving 2 Front Back Front Back Front Back Front 11" 11" 13" I' it' 12 11" 11" Back Front Back Front Back Front Back Front Back Front Back 3" 6" 31" 6" 31" 6" 31" 6" 30" 3" 27" 3' 23" 3' 21" 3' 3' 21" 20 yards delivered per min. 20 yards delivered 20 yards delivered per min. 20 yards delivered per min. per min. 24 yards delivered per min. 24 yards delivered per min. 24 yards delivered per min. 24 yards delivered per min. 24-27 yards delivered per min. 16" long 16" long 16" long 8" long 8" long 8" long 8" long 8" long Gill Balling Diameter of bottom roller Diameter of top roller Speed of rollers 20 yards delivered per min. Size of le stayes 16" long Power consumed 1 h.p. 8" long I I I I I I I i

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