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danielv835

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pf_coach_v0.1

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User (socaldad): "[original thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/2wf675/good_perf_review_good_company_profits_but_a_0/)\n\nThis post was from the middle of 2015. Most of the replies said the best way to get a raise would be to change companies. I stayed with that same company at that time, because I couldn't convince myself to make a move to another company. After getting a 0% raise in 2015, the company gave me a 3% raise for 2016, again with a good performance review. I decided at that point to apply elsewhere, and I was recently hired by another company. I got a 15% raise, and my commute went from 45 minutes (one-way) to 10 minutes. I should have made the jump sooner." Self: "I want to do this but a) I don't have a lot of experience, and b) my company is paying for me to go to college (UK college, not US college).\n\nI'm 28-years old but this is my first full time job and I've only been doing it for three years. And were I to leave the company I would surely lose the college education. Plus in order for them to pay the fees I had to sign an agreement that stated that if I leave within five years of completing the course then I have to pay the company back in full. It would take a really, really great offer for me to leave, but without experience and qualifications that's just not going to happen. All I can do is continue to pursue my education. Once I complete this course (it's a two-year course and I only began it in September) I'm going to try to pursuade my boss to put me on the next level up, and then once I complete that course the next level up from there, and so on and so forth." KyloZae (KyloZae): "Good Luck "

User (socaldad): "[original thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/2wf675/good_perf_review_good_company_profits_but_a_0/)\n\nThis post was from the middle of 2015. Most of the replies said the best way to get a raise would be to change companies. I stayed with that same company at that time, because I couldn't convince myself to make a move to another company. After getting a 0% raise in 2015, the company gave me a 3% raise for 2016, again with a good performance review. I decided at that point to apply elsewhere, and I was recently hired by another company. I got a 15% raise, and my commute went from 45 minutes (one-way) to 10 minutes. I should have made the jump sooner." Self: "Since 2009 I've almost tripled the salary I was making then my hopping around a decent bit.\n\nThere's no sense in being loyal to a company, since there's no reason for them to be loyal to you. The days of being a "lifer" are over, since there's not many companies that offer pensions as a retirement option anymore." mambouli (mambouli): "On the other hand, my wife has been with her firm since she got out of college. She's a licensed assistant that makes roughly $90k/yr (financial services). She starts at 9, leaves at 4, gets taken on fancy, boozy lunch at least once or twice a ~~year~~ week. Has unlimited sick days.... [Edit : forgot about this one : 6 weeks vacations!]Sometimes, it's good to stay!\n\nI often remind her that even if she could jump ship for an extra $10k-$15k; those perks and that work environment are priceless. " Self: "I just took a 7% pay cut in order to cut my commute from 22 miles one way to 5 miles round trip, so I entirely understand that pay is not the only factor, but I only agreed to a pay cut because the commute was so much better and the total compensation package with bonuses/pto/insurance is higher than my base salary at my current job." Aeroxin (Aeroxin): "I'm currently driving 180 miles roundtrip every day for my job. It was rough at first, but now it's not so bad. I enjoy the time to listen to podcasts. Still, a 44 mile roundtrip commute would be incredible." hab136 (hab136): "180 miles, 5 days a week, 50 weeks a year, costs you $24,300 per year in car costs (at $0.54/mile). Gas/oil/tires, repairs from wear and tear on your car, and depreciation (a car with more miles is worth less). It's something to consider when choosing jobs."

User (socaldad): "[original thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/2wf675/good_perf_review_good_company_profits_but_a_0/)\n\nThis post was from the middle of 2015. Most of the replies said the best way to get a raise would be to change companies. I stayed with that same company at that time, because I couldn't convince myself to make a move to another company. After getting a 0% raise in 2015, the company gave me a 3% raise for 2016, again with a good performance review. I decided at that point to apply elsewhere, and I was recently hired by another company. I got a 15% raise, and my commute went from 45 minutes (one-way) to 10 minutes. I should have made the jump sooner." Self: "I actually used my old address on my resume & when i was offered the job they offered to 'allow me to work on the train' 45 min in and out - meaning I arrive late & leave early. \n\nI actually live 2 train stops away (maybe 10 minutes or so). \n\nBecause of this, I work my fucking ass off b/c the position is too good to give up.\n\nThis allows me a few things: a good salary, avoiding heavy traffic, and b/c I said before I work my ass off: I do work a lot more from home than I did at my previous job (where I just did the 9-5). Plus, this gives me the opportunity to work remote more often."

User (socaldad): "[original thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/2wf675/good_perf_review_good_company_profits_but_a_0/)\n\nThis post was from the middle of 2015. Most of the replies said the best way to get a raise would be to change companies. I stayed with that same company at that time, because I couldn't convince myself to make a move to another company. After getting a 0% raise in 2015, the company gave me a 3% raise for 2016, again with a good performance review. I decided at that point to apply elsewhere, and I was recently hired by another company. I got a 15% raise, and my commute went from 45 minutes (one-way) to 10 minutes. I should have made the jump sooner." Self: "This is why we should always be looking. Being loyal to a company almost never pays off. We are mercenaries, and the highest bidder should win." benny_mod (benny_mod): "> Being loyal to a company almost never pays off.\n\nHowever being loyal to a worthy boss is. If you like the person you work for form a good relationship with them and keep in touch. You never know when they may start their own company or move to a good company and want to bring you with them. \n\nMy boss and I want to start a consulting firm. Be loyal to worthy people not a corporation because it is only people that can care about you. " Xandamere (Xandamere): "I love this comment. I have great relationships with a couple of past bosses, one of whom hired me again at a great role, and others who I know would do so if the right fit presented itself. \n\nBuild up relationships with people who are in positions to influence your career. "

User (socaldad): "[original thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/2wf675/good_perf_review_good_company_profits_but_a_0/)\n\nThis post was from the middle of 2015. Most of the replies said the best way to get a raise would be to change companies. I stayed with that same company at that time, because I couldn't convince myself to make a move to another company. After getting a 0% raise in 2015, the company gave me a 3% raise for 2016, again with a good performance review. I decided at that point to apply elsewhere, and I was recently hired by another company. I got a 15% raise, and my commute went from 45 minutes (one-way) to 10 minutes. I should have made the jump sooner." Self: "I was promoted in October. I did not get a raise, when I asked my manager why I'm giving so much praise and "promotions" why wasn't it rewarded with a raise. \n\nThe response I got was well, now that you're in a higher position, the cap on your salary is higher which will make it easier to give raises in the future. \n\nThat really pissed me off. I know my current salary is not at the cap for my previous position. This was just a way to deflect my frustration and substitute it with hope. \n\nWell that really motivated the shit out of me to get a new job. There is nothing they could do from that moment to change my mind, I took it personal. \n\nI am close to accepting a position for 40% more than I was making. I mean it's insane how cheap my company was but it was my first job out of college so I just stuck with them. By loyalty was not rewarded, and seriously you need to at least shop around to ensure you are getting fair market value.\n\nI can't stop grinning at the thought of putting my 2 weeks in. " Franklo (Franklo): "how long were you at the first job for?" Self: "5 years, I also just got my PE which is a big deal in the engineering world " Franklo (Franklo): "huh. I'm 4 months in my first job at an MEPT firm. honestly, after analyzing the career paths I don't really see myself staying in the industry for more than 5 years, but i'm worried about going too deep into an industry hole. There's not even a guarantee that it'd be any different in any other industry"

User (socaldad): "[original thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/2wf675/good_perf_review_good_company_profits_but_a_0/)\n\nThis post was from the middle of 2015. Most of the replies said the best way to get a raise would be to change companies. I stayed with that same company at that time, because I couldn't convince myself to make a move to another company. After getting a 0% raise in 2015, the company gave me a 3% raise for 2016, again with a good performance review. I decided at that point to apply elsewhere, and I was recently hired by another company. I got a 15% raise, and my commute went from 45 minutes (one-way) to 10 minutes. I should have made the jump sooner." Self: "Since 2009 I've almost tripled the salary I was making then my hopping around a decent bit.\n\nThere's no sense in being loyal to a company, since there's no reason for them to be loyal to you. The days of being a "lifer" are over, since there's not many companies that offer pensions as a retirement option anymore." mambouli (mambouli): "On the other hand, my wife has been with her firm since she got out of college. She's a licensed assistant that makes roughly $90k/yr (financial services). She starts at 9, leaves at 4, gets taken on fancy, boozy lunch at least once or twice a ~~year~~ week. Has unlimited sick days.... [Edit : forgot about this one : 6 weeks vacations!]Sometimes, it's good to stay!\n\nI often remind her that even if she could jump ship for an extra $10k-$15k; those perks and that work environment are priceless. " Self: "I just took a 7% pay cut in order to cut my commute from 22 miles one way to 5 miles round trip, so I entirely understand that pay is not the only factor, but I only agreed to a pay cut because the commute was so much better and the total compensation package with bonuses/pto/insurance is higher than my base salary at my current job." Aeroxin (Aeroxin): "I'm currently driving 180 miles roundtrip every day for my job. It was rough at first, but now it's not so bad. I enjoy the time to listen to podcasts. Still, a 44 mile roundtrip commute would be incredible." Self: "If my 22 mile commute didn't take 90 minutes each way...more in inclement weather (it took two and a half hours to get to work on Tuesday) I wouldn't mind. \n\nI'm assuming that if you're doing 90 miles one way it's not hindered terribly by rush hour or you **really** love where you live and or work. " Aeroxin (Aeroxin): "It takes about 90 minutes for me as well, but I definitely sympathize with you there. I live in a fairly rural area so I didn't even think about how 22 miles could be pretty terrible in a more densely populated area." Self: "22 miles wouldn't be so bad if I didn't live in an area that's a) notorious for having aggressively terrible traffic, and b) there was some form of mass transit available from my house to my office, but I live in one suburb and work in another, far removed from even our poor local excuse for mass transit.\n\nI'm looking forward to having a 5 mile round trip commute SO MUCH I can barely express it in words." Tw1987 (Tw1987): "I feel you. Part of the reason why I want to leave my job. 30 miles for an hour and a half on a good day sucks. 2 1/2 hours coming home during rush hour. I just go to the bar and drink a cold one. But it sucks because I have to go to sleep by the time I get home or shortly after."

User (socaldad): "[original thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/2wf675/good_perf_review_good_company_profits_but_a_0/)\n\nThis post was from the middle of 2015. Most of the replies said the best way to get a raise would be to change companies. I stayed with that same company at that time, because I couldn't convince myself to make a move to another company. After getting a 0% raise in 2015, the company gave me a 3% raise for 2016, again with a good performance review. I decided at that point to apply elsewhere, and I was recently hired by another company. I got a 15% raise, and my commute went from 45 minutes (one-way) to 10 minutes. I should have made the jump sooner." Self: "The shorter commute is worth quite a bit in my opinion. That's a lot of hours of your life you get back. " k7eric (k7eric): "No kidding. Who here wouldn't jump for joy if they found out they are now earning an extra 5 hours of PTO per week...which is pretty close to the same thing as dropping a 40 min commute to 10. " Carbon_Dirt (Carbon_Dirt): "Not just that, but being able to swing by home over lunch is a blessing in and of itself.\n\nI used to have a half-hour commute and an hour-long lunch. Always just went out for lunch or if I brought my own I just sat in the break room, bored. Now I live about five minutes away; I come home, grab a quick sandwich, and take my dog for a half-hour walk so he's not restless when I get home. Or maybe change over some laundry if need be, maybe grab a shower if I worked hard in the morning, whatever. I dread the day when I have to switch jobs, and would probably consider moving again just to keep this convenience." -TempestofChaos- (-TempestofChaos-): "The savings from eating at home would cover even a loss of income,,really. $5/day adds up fucking quick"

User (socaldad): "[original thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/2wf675/good_perf_review_good_company_profits_but_a_0/)\n\nThis post was from the middle of 2015. Most of the replies said the best way to get a raise would be to change companies. I stayed with that same company at that time, because I couldn't convince myself to make a move to another company. After getting a 0% raise in 2015, the company gave me a 3% raise for 2016, again with a good performance review. I decided at that point to apply elsewhere, and I was recently hired by another company. I got a 15% raise, and my commute went from 45 minutes (one-way) to 10 minutes. I should have made the jump sooner." Self: "Welcome to my world. Four years no raise. They just gave us a "raise" starting next week because of the new overtime law (basically they figured out it would be cheaper for us to have a higher salary). The "raise" was just a CYA (maybe COA, hmm?)" sexynerd9 (sexynerd9): "The new ot law didn't got into effect December 1st\n" Self: "Doesn't matter, half the country's employers still made their adjustments. It's not changing back now, even if the law doesn't end up happening. " sexynerd9 (sexynerd9): "We didn't make adjustments since we knew Trump won. "

User (socaldad): "[original thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/2wf675/good_perf_review_good_company_profits_but_a_0/)\n\nThis post was from the middle of 2015. Most of the replies said the best way to get a raise would be to change companies. I stayed with that same company at that time, because I couldn't convince myself to make a move to another company. After getting a 0% raise in 2015, the company gave me a 3% raise for 2016, again with a good performance review. I decided at that point to apply elsewhere, and I was recently hired by another company. I got a 15% raise, and my commute went from 45 minutes (one-way) to 10 minutes. I should have made the jump sooner." Self: "Since 2009 I've almost tripled the salary I was making then my hopping around a decent bit.\n\nThere's no sense in being loyal to a company, since there's no reason for them to be loyal to you. The days of being a "lifer" are over, since there's not many companies that offer pensions as a retirement option anymore." mambouli (mambouli): "On the other hand, my wife has been with her firm since she got out of college. She's a licensed assistant that makes roughly $90k/yr (financial services). She starts at 9, leaves at 4, gets taken on fancy, boozy lunch at least once or twice a ~~year~~ week. Has unlimited sick days.... [Edit : forgot about this one : 6 weeks vacations!]Sometimes, it's good to stay!\n\nI often remind her that even if she could jump ship for an extra $10k-$15k; those perks and that work environment are priceless. " femtester (femtester): "$90k?? How long has she been working at her company? I'm in the wrong line of work ..." mambouli (mambouli): "15 years. We're in Canada by the way, but you shouldn't just appy the current exchange rate to try to determine what $90k is worth. It's pretty much equivalent to the US in terms of local buying power. Two years ago, the exchange rate with US was on par.\n\nSo while she's "just" an assistant, she's also fully licensed to be a discretionary portfolio manager. As in you can give her money to manage and she won't need your approval for every trade, as would need a broker with less certification.\n\nBut she's just an assistant, because it's much better for her to have a very comfortable base salary and take a cut of her bosses commissions. Trying to run her own book, working fully off commission is almost impossible. She doesn't know many people who'd give her over $500k to manage. Which is pretty much the minimum account for customers at her firm." MisterMoosers (MisterMoosers): ""It's pretty much equivalent to the US in terms of local buying power."\n\nnot at all, the cost of living is so much ridiculously higher in Canada. " mambouli (mambouli): "I disagree.\n\nSome things are a bit more expensive, but a lot of things are insanely cheaper that it makes up for it. Especially when you are in the province of Quebec like us.\n\nI'm finishing a graduate diploma at McGill University. Tuition was $500 per semester. It cost me overal $2,500 to complete this graduate diploma. That was also pretty much the cost of my bachelor degree. From a great, internationally known school.\n\nI have a daughter in daycare. It costs us $220 per month. And it's a great daycare.\n\nThe hospital bill, for when she was born, was $120 or so, for the private room for 3 nights, because we didn't want a free shared room.\n\nAnd then my wife got 1 year of Maternity Leave, paid by the government, at 65% of her salary. Her job was guaranteed when se went back.\n\nFood and gas is more expensive.\n\nHousing varies so much throughout the US and Canada that it probably shouldn't be considered. But we're in Montreal, which has probably some of the lowest housing cost of all major North American cities." MisterMoosers (MisterMoosers): "As a Canadian who now lives in the US, as long as you have health insurance, its much, much cheaper to live here. \n\n\nMontreal is still much more expensive than a lot of areas here for housing. "

User (socaldad): "[original thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/2wf675/good_perf_review_good_company_profits_but_a_0/)\n\nThis post was from the middle of 2015. Most of the replies said the best way to get a raise would be to change companies. I stayed with that same company at that time, because I couldn't convince myself to make a move to another company. After getting a 0% raise in 2015, the company gave me a 3% raise for 2016, again with a good performance review. I decided at that point to apply elsewhere, and I was recently hired by another company. I got a 15% raise, and my commute went from 45 minutes (one-way) to 10 minutes. I should have made the jump sooner." Self: "This is why we should always be looking. Being loyal to a company almost never pays off. We are mercenaries, and the highest bidder should win." benny_mod (benny_mod): "> Being loyal to a company almost never pays off.\n\nHowever being loyal to a worthy boss is. If you like the person you work for form a good relationship with them and keep in touch. You never know when they may start their own company or move to a good company and want to bring you with them. \n\nMy boss and I want to start a consulting firm. Be loyal to worthy people not a corporation because it is only people that can care about you. " mejelic (mejelic): "This is 100% true. It all comes back to, "Who you know"" stacktion (stacktion): "I just got a job because I fixed a guys phone 5 years ago. He happened to be a recruiter for a big company and I kept in contact. For the most part I've gotten interviews because I know people who work at the place. " nia817 (nia817): "This might be a stupid question, but how did you stay in contact with him? Like as friends?" stacktion (stacktion): "Through linkedin haha by stay in contact it was more like didn't lose his info in case I needed it some day. "

User (socaldad): "[original thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/2wf675/good_perf_review_good_company_profits_but_a_0/)\n\nThis post was from the middle of 2015. Most of the replies said the best way to get a raise would be to change companies. I stayed with that same company at that time, because I couldn't convince myself to make a move to another company. After getting a 0% raise in 2015, the company gave me a 3% raise for 2016, again with a good performance review. I decided at that point to apply elsewhere, and I was recently hired by another company. I got a 15% raise, and my commute went from 45 minutes (one-way) to 10 minutes. I should have made the jump sooner." Self: "Since 2009 I've almost tripled the salary I was making then my hopping around a decent bit.\n\nThere's no sense in being loyal to a company, since there's no reason for them to be loyal to you. The days of being a "lifer" are over, since there's not many companies that offer pensions as a retirement option anymore." mambouli (mambouli): "On the other hand, my wife has been with her firm since she got out of college. She's a licensed assistant that makes roughly $90k/yr (financial services). She starts at 9, leaves at 4, gets taken on fancy, boozy lunch at least once or twice a ~~year~~ week. Has unlimited sick days.... [Edit : forgot about this one : 6 weeks vacations!]Sometimes, it's good to stay!\n\nI often remind her that even if she could jump ship for an extra $10k-$15k; those perks and that work environment are priceless. " groovyfinch (groovyfinch): "Some of my best life moves have been to leave for a job where I'd make less money and have a significantly happier life both in and out of the office."

User (socaldad): "[original thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/2wf675/good_perf_review_good_company_profits_but_a_0/)\n\nThis post was from the middle of 2015. Most of the replies said the best way to get a raise would be to change companies. I stayed with that same company at that time, because I couldn't convince myself to make a move to another company. After getting a 0% raise in 2015, the company gave me a 3% raise for 2016, again with a good performance review. I decided at that point to apply elsewhere, and I was recently hired by another company. I got a 15% raise, and my commute went from 45 minutes (one-way) to 10 minutes. I should have made the jump sooner." Self: "Since 2009 I've almost tripled the salary I was making then my hopping around a decent bit.\n\nThere's no sense in being loyal to a company, since there's no reason for them to be loyal to you. The days of being a "lifer" are over, since there's not many companies that offer pensions as a retirement option anymore." mambouli (mambouli): "On the other hand, my wife has been with her firm since she got out of college. She's a licensed assistant that makes roughly $90k/yr (financial services). She starts at 9, leaves at 4, gets taken on fancy, boozy lunch at least once or twice a ~~year~~ week. Has unlimited sick days.... [Edit : forgot about this one : 6 weeks vacations!]Sometimes, it's good to stay!\n\nI often remind her that even if she could jump ship for an extra $10k-$15k; those perks and that work environment are priceless. " Self: "I just took a 7% pay cut in order to cut my commute from 22 miles one way to 5 miles round trip, so I entirely understand that pay is not the only factor, but I only agreed to a pay cut because the commute was so much better and the total compensation package with bonuses/pto/insurance is higher than my base salary at my current job." hab136 (hab136): "That reduction in commuting is worth about $5k of car expenses ($0.54/mile). If you make less than $75k, you actually came out ahead." Self: "My current job would have me (counting commute time) occupied for 55/hours a week (at least!). My new job is going to cut that down to 42 hours. If you take that into account, the new job is an $11/hour raise because I'm wasting less time commuting. That's not counting the gas savings and car wear and tear."

User (socaldad): "[original thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/2wf675/good_perf_review_good_company_profits_but_a_0/)\n\nThis post was from the middle of 2015. Most of the replies said the best way to get a raise would be to change companies. I stayed with that same company at that time, because I couldn't convince myself to make a move to another company. After getting a 0% raise in 2015, the company gave me a 3% raise for 2016, again with a good performance review. I decided at that point to apply elsewhere, and I was recently hired by another company. I got a 15% raise, and my commute went from 45 minutes (one-way) to 10 minutes. I should have made the jump sooner." Self: "The shorter commute is worth quite a bit in my opinion. That's a lot of hours of your life you get back. " Matazat (Matazat): "Plus gas money!" wrongnumber (wrongnumber): "Might go through mufflers quicker though, as the muffler doesn't have time enough to warm condensation out. " Talindred (Talindred): "I'm about 10 minutes from work... my car is warm by about minute 5 and I haven't had any muffler issues in the 12 years I've had it... I think quick trips to the corner for smokes or gas might cause this but 10 minutes should be ok." wrongnumber (wrongnumber): "Okay cool i remember a thread about someone going through mufflers being 15-20 drive from work, could have been the type of car though. " Talindred (Talindred): "Maybe.... Toyotas just seem to last forever :)"

User (socaldad): "[original thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/2wf675/good_perf_review_good_company_profits_but_a_0/)\n\nThis post was from the middle of 2015. Most of the replies said the best way to get a raise would be to change companies. I stayed with that same company at that time, because I couldn't convince myself to make a move to another company. After getting a 0% raise in 2015, the company gave me a 3% raise for 2016, again with a good performance review. I decided at that point to apply elsewhere, and I was recently hired by another company. I got a 15% raise, and my commute went from 45 minutes (one-way) to 10 minutes. I should have made the jump sooner." Self: "This is why we should always be looking. Being loyal to a company almost never pays off. We are mercenaries, and the highest bidder should win." pinkycatcher (pinkycatcher): "It depends, over the past 4 years I've gotten 3 raises, 13%, 17%, and 15%. On top of that the management is great, the people are really good, and it's a good environment where I get to have a lot of say and do a lot of things.\n\nI know my bosses don't expect me to be around forever, but they're doing a good job keeping me here. I'd really only move for a 30%+ bump in pay, and that's about the bottom of what I would accept. \n\nI think you should always take a step back and look at your company before you decide to be loyal or not. \n\n " westhoff0407 (westhoff0407): "Damn. Where are you working?? Are they hiring?" Cainga (Cainga): "% increase is kinda worthless without knowing the salary. He could have been a temp that started at $12 an hour. \n\nAfter getting laid off from company A I eventually found a job paying 50% more at company B. However in the transition I actually had a paycut for a few months while I was searching for the real job. So my transition job to final company B was like a 100% increase. "

User (socaldad): "[original thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/2wf675/good_perf_review_good_company_profits_but_a_0/)\n\nThis post was from the middle of 2015. Most of the replies said the best way to get a raise would be to change companies. I stayed with that same company at that time, because I couldn't convince myself to make a move to another company. After getting a 0% raise in 2015, the company gave me a 3% raise for 2016, again with a good performance review. I decided at that point to apply elsewhere, and I was recently hired by another company. I got a 15% raise, and my commute went from 45 minutes (one-way) to 10 minutes. I should have made the jump sooner." Self: "The shorter commute is worth quite a bit in my opinion. That's a lot of hours of your life you get back. " k7eric (k7eric): "No kidding. Who here wouldn't jump for joy if they found out they are now earning an extra 5 hours of PTO per week...which is pretty close to the same thing as dropping a 40 min commute to 10. " Carbon_Dirt (Carbon_Dirt): "Not just that, but being able to swing by home over lunch is a blessing in and of itself.\n\nI used to have a half-hour commute and an hour-long lunch. Always just went out for lunch or if I brought my own I just sat in the break room, bored. Now I live about five minutes away; I come home, grab a quick sandwich, and take my dog for a half-hour walk so he's not restless when I get home. Or maybe change over some laundry if need be, maybe grab a shower if I worked hard in the morning, whatever. I dread the day when I have to switch jobs, and would probably consider moving again just to keep this convenience." Cainga (Cainga): "That sounds extremely rare and fortunate. Most good career jobs aren't going to be within 10 mins of your house. Throw in a spouse and nearly impossible for two people to get that short of working and living downtown. "

User (socaldad): "[original thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/2wf675/good_perf_review_good_company_profits_but_a_0/)\n\nThis post was from the middle of 2015. Most of the replies said the best way to get a raise would be to change companies. I stayed with that same company at that time, because I couldn't convince myself to make a move to another company. After getting a 0% raise in 2015, the company gave me a 3% raise for 2016, again with a good performance review. I decided at that point to apply elsewhere, and I was recently hired by another company. I got a 15% raise, and my commute went from 45 minutes (one-way) to 10 minutes. I should have made the jump sooner." Self: "I was promoted in October. I did not get a raise, when I asked my manager why I'm giving so much praise and "promotions" why wasn't it rewarded with a raise. \n\nThe response I got was well, now that you're in a higher position, the cap on your salary is higher which will make it easier to give raises in the future. \n\nThat really pissed me off. I know my current salary is not at the cap for my previous position. This was just a way to deflect my frustration and substitute it with hope. \n\nWell that really motivated the shit out of me to get a new job. There is nothing they could do from that moment to change my mind, I took it personal. \n\nI am close to accepting a position for 40% more than I was making. I mean it's insane how cheap my company was but it was my first job out of college so I just stuck with them. By loyalty was not rewarded, and seriously you need to at least shop around to ensure you are getting fair market value.\n\nI can't stop grinning at the thought of putting my 2 weeks in. " Cainga (Cainga): "Really there isn't much of a reason to be loyal to a company anymore. Pensions are gone. You take 401ks with you. The only thing is maybe if there is a payback period on a benefit if you don't stay long enough. And most cases the salary bump will probably cover those repayment costs in a year or two anyways. "

User (socaldad): "[original thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/2wf675/good_perf_review_good_company_profits_but_a_0/)\n\nThis post was from the middle of 2015. Most of the replies said the best way to get a raise would be to change companies. I stayed with that same company at that time, because I couldn't convince myself to make a move to another company. After getting a 0% raise in 2015, the company gave me a 3% raise for 2016, again with a good performance review. I decided at that point to apply elsewhere, and I was recently hired by another company. I got a 15% raise, and my commute went from 45 minutes (one-way) to 10 minutes. I should have made the jump sooner." Self: "Since 2009 I've almost tripled the salary I was making then my hopping around a decent bit.\n\nThere's no sense in being loyal to a company, since there's no reason for them to be loyal to you. The days of being a "lifer" are over, since there's not many companies that offer pensions as a retirement option anymore." mambouli (mambouli): "On the other hand, my wife has been with her firm since she got out of college. She's a licensed assistant that makes roughly $90k/yr (financial services). She starts at 9, leaves at 4, gets taken on fancy, boozy lunch at least once or twice a ~~year~~ week. Has unlimited sick days.... [Edit : forgot about this one : 6 weeks vacations!]Sometimes, it's good to stay!\n\nI often remind her that even if she could jump ship for an extra $10k-$15k; those perks and that work environment are priceless. " Cainga (Cainga): "Company A I worked for I got 8 sick days a year that rolled over that was plenty. I ended up getting laid off and lost them all. I also just hit 5 years and got screwed out of a 3rd week of vacation I just earned since they prorated it. And I lost banked vacation days too. \n\nNow at company B I'm back down to only two weeks of vacation and sick days don't roll over. \n\nI feel my job is secure at company B but that doesn't mean I won't go search for company C. Especially since my skills and experienced have greatly increased but not my salary or benefits. "

User (socaldad): "[original thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/2wf675/good_perf_review_good_company_profits_but_a_0/)\n\nThis post was from the middle of 2015. Most of the replies said the best way to get a raise would be to change companies. I stayed with that same company at that time, because I couldn't convince myself to make a move to another company. After getting a 0% raise in 2015, the company gave me a 3% raise for 2016, again with a good performance review. I decided at that point to apply elsewhere, and I was recently hired by another company. I got a 15% raise, and my commute went from 45 minutes (one-way) to 10 minutes. I should have made the jump sooner." Self: "It should also be noted that there are other things besides money (salary, bonuses, raises, company match 401K are all included in this for the sake of the discussion) that bring value to employment. Quality Of Life topics often get undervalued. Do you like/respect your boss? Does your boss and the company treat and respect employees like humans? Is the company culture good? Are other people happy at the job and behave positively at work? How long/difficult is your commute? What are the long term possibilities for circumstances to improve?\n\nI've found that having a good relationship with your boss, and feeling like the company respects me as a human are very valuable. " Cainga (Cainga): "Hours worked too which is often overlooked. I lawyer might pull in 150k but has to work 70 hour weeks. "

User (socaldad): "[original thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/2wf675/good_perf_review_good_company_profits_but_a_0/)\n\nThis post was from the middle of 2015. Most of the replies said the best way to get a raise would be to change companies. I stayed with that same company at that time, because I couldn't convince myself to make a move to another company. After getting a 0% raise in 2015, the company gave me a 3% raise for 2016, again with a good performance review. I decided at that point to apply elsewhere, and I was recently hired by another company. I got a 15% raise, and my commute went from 45 minutes (one-way) to 10 minutes. I should have made the jump sooner." Self: "Since 2009 I've almost tripled the salary I was making then my hopping around a decent bit.\n\nThere's no sense in being loyal to a company, since there's no reason for them to be loyal to you. The days of being a "lifer" are over, since there's not many companies that offer pensions as a retirement option anymore." alander4 (alander4): "Depends where I guess. I'm a "lifer" at Walmart. I make about 50k a year and have 6.5 weeks of PTO a year, which will increase to 7.5 in another 2 years when I hit my 20 year mark. You can carry over up to 2 weeks so at one point I can have 9.5 weeks of PTO. It's the only place I've ever worked and I started in high school. Worked my way through several different positions and levels of hourly and management. I have a 2 year degree but didn't continue on when I realized I enjoy what I'm doing right now, plus the PTO is insane. Soon I'll be able to take a week off almost every month of the year except nov dec busy months. I'm pretty glad I stayed where I did. Also they match 6% of my 401k and 15% of my stock purchases up to $180 matched by them. " jbrowncph (jbrowncph): "Yeah, but you've been with the company 20 years and you're stuck at 50k? No thanks." residentchubbychaser (residentchubbychaser): "$50k is enough to live comfortably (unless you have a lot of kids or something), and that amount of PTO leaves a ton of time to devote to hobbies and interests. Not everyone is in it just for money. It does sound like they're getting "raises" (in the form of benefits, like PTO) by staying there, so it's up to personal taste." jbrowncph (jbrowncph): "Eh, I wouldn't want to live on that kind of money, especially after devoting what more than likely amounts to more than a quarter of my life to one place." Cainga (Cainga): "What area do you live in? With a spouse household income would be close to 100k. Obviously not fancy downtown apartment type of money but that is still a lot better than most Americans. " jbrowncph (jbrowncph): "This thread is about loyalty and getting what you're worth from a company. If you spend that much of your life in any company, you're worth more than what this guy is making in my opinion. Yours may vary."

User (socaldad): "[original thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/2wf675/good_perf_review_good_company_profits_but_a_0/)\n\nThis post was from the middle of 2015. Most of the replies said the best way to get a raise would be to change companies. I stayed with that same company at that time, because I couldn't convince myself to make a move to another company. After getting a 0% raise in 2015, the company gave me a 3% raise for 2016, again with a good performance review. I decided at that point to apply elsewhere, and I was recently hired by another company. I got a 15% raise, and my commute went from 45 minutes (one-way) to 10 minutes. I should have made the jump sooner." Self: "I've turned down jobs that were 40k more year because I have a 7 minute commute\n"

User (socaldad): "[original thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/2wf675/good_perf_review_good_company_profits_but_a_0/)\n\nThis post was from the middle of 2015. Most of the replies said the best way to get a raise would be to change companies. I stayed with that same company at that time, because I couldn't convince myself to make a move to another company. After getting a 0% raise in 2015, the company gave me a 3% raise for 2016, again with a good performance review. I decided at that point to apply elsewhere, and I was recently hired by another company. I got a 15% raise, and my commute went from 45 minutes (one-way) to 10 minutes. I should have made the jump sooner." Self: "Since 2009 I've almost tripled the salary I was making then my hopping around a decent bit.\n\nThere's no sense in being loyal to a company, since there's no reason for them to be loyal to you. The days of being a "lifer" are over, since there's not many companies that offer pensions as a retirement option anymore." alander4 (alander4): "Depends where I guess. I'm a "lifer" at Walmart. I make about 50k a year and have 6.5 weeks of PTO a year, which will increase to 7.5 in another 2 years when I hit my 20 year mark. You can carry over up to 2 weeks so at one point I can have 9.5 weeks of PTO. It's the only place I've ever worked and I started in high school. Worked my way through several different positions and levels of hourly and management. I have a 2 year degree but didn't continue on when I realized I enjoy what I'm doing right now, plus the PTO is insane. Soon I'll be able to take a week off almost every month of the year except nov dec busy months. I'm pretty glad I stayed where I did. Also they match 6% of my 401k and 15% of my stock purchases up to $180 matched by them. " weehawkenwonder (weehawkenwonder): "Ahh a WalMart employee! My understanding is that they are a great company to work for *if* you're not an hourly employee. Certainly, your benefits make staying long term very attractive and leaving foolish. From my conversations w employees at local stores, there have been recent layoffs which were completely unexpected. Given the waves of layoffs, are you concerned about what future holds?" alander4 (alander4): "Salaried and hourly have their benefits, but I'd say hourly is where you get more spoiled with time off etc. I've never heard of anyone being layed off at Walmart and I'd be surprised if they ever do that. We're pretty much hiring year round and there are always about 50 people you could do without due to their performance/attendance so they kind of weed themselves out."

User (socaldad): "[original thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/2wf675/good_perf_review_good_company_profits_but_a_0/)\n\nThis post was from the middle of 2015. Most of the replies said the best way to get a raise would be to change companies. I stayed with that same company at that time, because I couldn't convince myself to make a move to another company. After getting a 0% raise in 2015, the company gave me a 3% raise for 2016, again with a good performance review. I decided at that point to apply elsewhere, and I was recently hired by another company. I got a 15% raise, and my commute went from 45 minutes (one-way) to 10 minutes. I should have made the jump sooner." Self: "Since 2009 I've almost tripled the salary I was making then my hopping around a decent bit.\n\nThere's no sense in being loyal to a company, since there's no reason for them to be loyal to you. The days of being a "lifer" are over, since there's not many companies that offer pensions as a retirement option anymore." alander4 (alander4): "Depends where I guess. I'm a "lifer" at Walmart. I make about 50k a year and have 6.5 weeks of PTO a year, which will increase to 7.5 in another 2 years when I hit my 20 year mark. You can carry over up to 2 weeks so at one point I can have 9.5 weeks of PTO. It's the only place I've ever worked and I started in high school. Worked my way through several different positions and levels of hourly and management. I have a 2 year degree but didn't continue on when I realized I enjoy what I'm doing right now, plus the PTO is insane. Soon I'll be able to take a week off almost every month of the year except nov dec busy months. I'm pretty glad I stayed where I did. Also they match 6% of my 401k and 15% of my stock purchases up to $180 matched by them. " jbrowncph (jbrowncph): "Yeah, but you've been with the company 20 years and you're stuck at 50k? No thanks." alander4 (alander4): "I've made a lot more money with Walmart and chose to step down to work less hours. Once I got married I really changed my priorities and realized that I would much rather work 40 hours or less and enjoy my free time with friends and family, versus being salaried and working a ton of hours but making a lot more money. That being said I'm in the midwest, cost of living is low, and I'm able to live comfortably at this range or I wouldn't have made that decision."

User (socaldad): "[original thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/2wf675/good_perf_review_good_company_profits_but_a_0/)\n\nThis post was from the middle of 2015. Most of the replies said the best way to get a raise would be to change companies. I stayed with that same company at that time, because I couldn't convince myself to make a move to another company. After getting a 0% raise in 2015, the company gave me a 3% raise for 2016, again with a good performance review. I decided at that point to apply elsewhere, and I was recently hired by another company. I got a 15% raise, and my commute went from 45 minutes (one-way) to 10 minutes. I should have made the jump sooner." Self: "Since 2009 I've almost tripled the salary I was making then my hopping around a decent bit.\n\nThere's no sense in being loyal to a company, since there's no reason for them to be loyal to you. The days of being a "lifer" are over, since there's not many companies that offer pensions as a retirement option anymore." alander4 (alander4): "Depends where I guess. I'm a "lifer" at Walmart. I make about 50k a year and have 6.5 weeks of PTO a year, which will increase to 7.5 in another 2 years when I hit my 20 year mark. You can carry over up to 2 weeks so at one point I can have 9.5 weeks of PTO. It's the only place I've ever worked and I started in high school. Worked my way through several different positions and levels of hourly and management. I have a 2 year degree but didn't continue on when I realized I enjoy what I'm doing right now, plus the PTO is insane. Soon I'll be able to take a week off almost every month of the year except nov dec busy months. I'm pretty glad I stayed where I did. Also they match 6% of my 401k and 15% of my stock purchases up to $180 matched by them. " KiBps (KiBps): "If you had switched companies you could have made a lot more money." alander4 (alander4): "Not interested in more money at this time, more interested in having as much time off as I can possibly have. I've made more money before and as they say, money does not buy happiness."

User (socaldad): "[original thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/2wf675/good_perf_review_good_company_profits_but_a_0/)\n\nThis post was from the middle of 2015. Most of the replies said the best way to get a raise would be to change companies. I stayed with that same company at that time, because I couldn't convince myself to make a move to another company. After getting a 0% raise in 2015, the company gave me a 3% raise for 2016, again with a good performance review. I decided at that point to apply elsewhere, and I was recently hired by another company. I got a 15% raise, and my commute went from 45 minutes (one-way) to 10 minutes. I should have made the jump sooner." Self: "This is why we should always be looking. Being loyal to a company almost never pays off. We are mercenaries, and the highest bidder should win." pinkycatcher (pinkycatcher): "It depends, over the past 4 years I've gotten 3 raises, 13%, 17%, and 15%. On top of that the management is great, the people are really good, and it's a good environment where I get to have a lot of say and do a lot of things.\n\nI know my bosses don't expect me to be around forever, but they're doing a good job keeping me here. I'd really only move for a 30%+ bump in pay, and that's about the bottom of what I would accept. \n\nI think you should always take a step back and look at your company before you decide to be loyal or not. \n\n " enraged768 (enraged768): "I have the same thing where I work. I get a pay raise of ten percent every two years and a 3% to 5% raise every year automatically. It's a pretty nice job and a good boss. " Love_LittleBoo (Love_LittleBoo): "It sounds like you guys are being underpaid..." enraged768 (enraged768): "I make 54k right now. It's middle class I think." wesnothplayer (wesnothplayer): "The real question isn't what you make but how it compares to the market rate. If you're getting raises that big chances are you're below market by a fair amount or your company is way better towards their employees than average.\n\n" enraged768 (enraged768): "It's based on the schools that I complete. I program PLC's for a living and must complete a certain amount of my schools every two years to get the raise. Once I complete all the schools I move into the next pay bracket and the whole thing starts over. It's basically me working through the ranks while also gaining schools that make me better at my job. " Love_LittleBoo (Love_LittleBoo): "Oh, PLCs like manufacturing? I bet they're treating you like the regular engineers in the industry.\n\nJust so you know, if you have a decent language set and swapped industries you'd probably be making at least 20-30k more.\n\nBut it can be very nice to put in the time and be on the sliding scale, established pay raises for anyone that wants them can be quite nice. What schools do they have you doing?" enraged768 (enraged768): "I go to SEL classes , Schneider classes, some unity pro classes, and then i also do IT work for them as well so they've been paying for me to work through the Cisco pipeline. All the level one techs get CNAA certified before moving to level two. I'm taking an advantage class next week actually. Just a week long water cooling control school."

User (socaldad): "[original thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/2wf675/good_perf_review_good_company_profits_but_a_0/)\n\nThis post was from the middle of 2015. Most of the replies said the best way to get a raise would be to change companies. I stayed with that same company at that time, because I couldn't convince myself to make a move to another company. After getting a 0% raise in 2015, the company gave me a 3% raise for 2016, again with a good performance review. I decided at that point to apply elsewhere, and I was recently hired by another company. I got a 15% raise, and my commute went from 45 minutes (one-way) to 10 minutes. I should have made the jump sooner." Self: "The shorter commute is worth quite a bit in my opinion. That's a lot of hours of your life you get back. " FiercelyFuzzy206 (FiercelyFuzzy206): "This is the biggest reason I stay where I am. Sometimes paycheck isn't the only thing you need to check out. Id gladly take less pay for better benefits it closer location. "

User (socaldad): "[original thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/2wf675/good_perf_review_good_company_profits_but_a_0/)\n\nThis post was from the middle of 2015. Most of the replies said the best way to get a raise would be to change companies. I stayed with that same company at that time, because I couldn't convince myself to make a move to another company. After getting a 0% raise in 2015, the company gave me a 3% raise for 2016, again with a good performance review. I decided at that point to apply elsewhere, and I was recently hired by another company. I got a 15% raise, and my commute went from 45 minutes (one-way) to 10 minutes. I should have made the jump sooner." Self: "A lot of companies have shifted to equal pay structures across the board. That very well might be why. The people complaining about the 20% pay difference between men and women (and not being intelligent enough to understand that data) have largely taken away people's ability to get a raise at a larger company."

User (socaldad): "[original thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/2wf675/good_perf_review_good_company_profits_but_a_0/)\n\nThis post was from the middle of 2015. Most of the replies said the best way to get a raise would be to change companies. I stayed with that same company at that time, because I couldn't convince myself to make a move to another company. After getting a 0% raise in 2015, the company gave me a 3% raise for 2016, again with a good performance review. I decided at that point to apply elsewhere, and I was recently hired by another company. I got a 15% raise, and my commute went from 45 minutes (one-way) to 10 minutes. I should have made the jump sooner." Self: "Since 2009 I've almost tripled the salary I was making then my hopping around a decent bit.\n\nThere's no sense in being loyal to a company, since there's no reason for them to be loyal to you. The days of being a "lifer" are over, since there's not many companies that offer pensions as a retirement option anymore." mambouli (mambouli): "On the other hand, my wife has been with her firm since she got out of college. She's a licensed assistant that makes roughly $90k/yr (financial services). She starts at 9, leaves at 4, gets taken on fancy, boozy lunch at least once or twice a ~~year~~ week. Has unlimited sick days.... [Edit : forgot about this one : 6 weeks vacations!]Sometimes, it's good to stay!\n\nI often remind her that even if she could jump ship for an extra $10k-$15k; those perks and that work environment are priceless. " Kermit43093 (Kermit43093): "What do you mean by licensed assistant? I am also in the financial industry. I work operations at a middle market bank." mambouli (mambouli): "I mean she's fully licensed to trade on the market. She's CIM, which means she can be a discretionary portfolio manager. \n\nBut she doesn't have millions under management because she doesn't have that kind of network. \n\nSo she works for a team of brokers. She runs the administrative side of the business while they focus on business development. " Kermit43093 (Kermit43093): "I only ask because she's in a REALLLLLY good position in terms of salary and workload. My starting right now is 65k and I slave 60 hours a week. Definitely gonna be looking into other options in couple years. "

User (socaldad): "[original thread](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/comments/2wf675/good_perf_review_good_company_profits_but_a_0/)\n\nThis post was from the middle of 2015. Most of the replies said the best way to get a raise would be to change companies. I stayed with that same company at that time, because I couldn't convince myself to make a move to another company. After getting a 0% raise in 2015, the company gave me a 3% raise for 2016, again with a good performance review. I decided at that point to apply elsewhere, and I was recently hired by another company. I got a 15% raise, and my commute went from 45 minutes (one-way) to 10 minutes. I should have made the jump sooner." Self: "This is why we should always be looking. Being loyal to a company almost never pays off. We are mercenaries, and the highest bidder should win." gonzobon (gonzobon): "My company rewards us for loyalty. Large 401k match that vests a little more each year up to 5 years. Bonuses every 6 months that go up with tenure. The longer you stay, the harder it gets to leave. And the wage is nice. After a certain time period you start getting lots of other perks that amount to a decent chunk of change."

User (hahahoss): "I'm curious about what collection of degrees would be the most beneficial (the most appealing to an employer looking at my resume) for what they cost. I know cost varies depending on the institution but no matter where someone goes, undergrad is less expensive per credit hour than graduate which is less than doctorate and somewhere in the high end cost range is M.D. and J.D.\n\nI'm about to have my bachelor's with a double major in philosophy and linguistics. I've taken the lsat and could get into an average/bottom tier law school. Or I could get a second bachelors in something marketable. Or I could pursue a master's in philosophy or linguistics or a dual masters for both. Or I could just stop since I didn't major in something marketable to begin with and just do roofing the rest of my life with a big chunk of my income going to pay back my undergraduate student loan.\n\n I have to start applying soon and I'm unsure of what route would be best. I appreciate any and all advice or input. " Self: "What do you want to do, and how can your current degrees get you there?" User (hahahoss): "After studying philosophy it's really hard for me to answer the question of what I want to do, which is honestly part of the problem. I'll be happy with anything I do, which is how philosophy will help I guess but Idk about linguistics, which I love. The only ways my degrees can help me that I think of is if I continue my education and contribute to those fields of study, get a teaching certificate to teach reading and language arts in grades 6-12, or pursue law school. I feel like there are so many options and I be cool with any of them, so I'm trying to look at them practically and financially. " pentillionaire (pentillionaire): "honestly, i would really recommend not getting either of those degrees and studying them on your own if you love them because the fact is they really aren't financially practical. there is nothing wrong with not going to college and a lot of times it's actually the dumb move" User (hahahoss): "That's the perspective I would've followed four years ago if I had it but I'll be done with undergrad next semester so it's too late to quit now. Academic philosophy is self defeating but linguistics is a tough science with a lot of potential for new discoveries. If I could go back I would've gone to trade school for welding but shoulda, woulda, coulda. "

User (hahahoss): "I'm curious about what collection of degrees would be the most beneficial (the most appealing to an employer looking at my resume) for what they cost. I know cost varies depending on the institution but no matter where someone goes, undergrad is less expensive per credit hour than graduate which is less than doctorate and somewhere in the high end cost range is M.D. and J.D.\n\nI'm about to have my bachelor's with a double major in philosophy and linguistics. I've taken the lsat and could get into an average/bottom tier law school. Or I could get a second bachelors in something marketable. Or I could pursue a master's in philosophy or linguistics or a dual masters for both. Or I could just stop since I didn't major in something marketable to begin with and just do roofing the rest of my life with a big chunk of my income going to pay back my undergraduate student loan.\n\n I have to start applying soon and I'm unsure of what route would be best. I appreciate any and all advice or input. " Self: "To my knowledge, average to below average law schools do not promise a high-enough salary payoff to justify the tuition. My friends who went to those types of law schools are drowning in ~$150k+ student loan debt and only net ~$50k a year. \n\nI recommend working for a bit, experiencing your career prospects, and then choosing an advanced degree (if any). Advanced degrees are generally more expensive, and should not be entered into lightly. " User (hahahoss): "This was really helpful and was the type of info I was shooting for with this post. Thanks a bunch. \n\nQuestion: by advanced degree do you mean anything beyond a bachelor's? Would a masters be considered an advanced degree? " Self: "You're welcome! And yup - anything beyond a Bachelor's is an advanced degree. "

User (hahahoss): "I'm curious about what collection of degrees would be the most beneficial (the most appealing to an employer looking at my resume) for what they cost. I know cost varies depending on the institution but no matter where someone goes, undergrad is less expensive per credit hour than graduate which is less than doctorate and somewhere in the high end cost range is M.D. and J.D.\n\nI'm about to have my bachelor's with a double major in philosophy and linguistics. I've taken the lsat and could get into an average/bottom tier law school. Or I could get a second bachelors in something marketable. Or I could pursue a master's in philosophy or linguistics or a dual masters for both. Or I could just stop since I didn't major in something marketable to begin with and just do roofing the rest of my life with a big chunk of my income going to pay back my undergraduate student loan.\n\n I have to start applying soon and I'm unsure of what route would be best. I appreciate any and all advice or input. " Self: "Have you considered a master's in IT or CS? Some are easy to get into and could have a high starting salary. You can also go the certification route and with a bachelors a lot of doors will be open to you. " User (hahahoss): "What does VS stand for?"

User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "After working as a criminal lawyer for 12 years I'm completely burned out, so I want to stop practicing law and do something else. Is it a good idea to start a business or should I be investing? Do you have any other ideas about what can I do with my money?" Self: "My cousin stopped after 10 years and became a truck driver"

User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "After working as a criminal lawyer for 12 years I'm completely burned out, so I want to stop practicing law and do something else. Is it a good idea to start a business or should I be investing? Do you have any other ideas about what can I do with my money?" Self: "Well what do you love to do?" User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "I enjoy managing people, organizing them, streamlining the work, finding proper specialists to do the specific task. Making a team or organisation more efficient is extremely delightful for me." Chuck_Peligro (Chuck_Peligro): "One of the Bobs, eh?"

User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "After working as a criminal lawyer for 12 years I'm completely burned out, so I want to stop practicing law and do something else. Is it a good idea to start a business or should I be investing? Do you have any other ideas about what can I do with my money?" Self: "Sounds like you're pushing 40ish. With $1M "in the bank" (does that mean retirement accounts?), no debts, and owning a home, you are in prime FIRE territory. I would head over to /r/financialindependence and check out what's over there.\n\nPersonally, I would consider taking a break to travel and then return to working three or so days a week while pursuing a hobby with my 4-day "weekends."" AutoModerator (AutoModerator): "/r/financialindependence is a subreddit for people who are or want to become Financially Independent (FI), which means not having to work for money. Closely related is the concept of Retiring Early (RE), leaving one's job and pursuing other activities with your time.\n\nThe moderators of /r/financialindependence [have asked that people not post general personal finance or investing questions there](https://www.reddit.com/r/financialindependence/comments/3dm8yc/meta_read_this_before_posting/).\n\n*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/personalfinance) if you have any questions or concerns.*"

User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "After working as a criminal lawyer for 12 years I'm completely burned out, so I want to stop practicing law and do something else. Is it a good idea to start a business or should I be investing? Do you have any other ideas about what can I do with my money?" Self: "Well what do you love to do?" User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "I enjoy managing people, organizing them, streamlining the work, finding proper specialists to do the specific task. Making a team or organisation more efficient is extremely delightful for me." JKaps9 (JKaps9): "How do you feel about process management for a B4 accounting firm? We could use some serious efficiencies"

User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "After working as a criminal lawyer for 12 years I'm completely burned out, so I want to stop practicing law and do something else. Is it a good idea to start a business or should I be investing? Do you have any other ideas about what can I do with my money?" Self: "as a lawyer i doubt 40k/year will cut it for you. invest it, find something else you like to do, etc, but grow that money somehow."

User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "After working as a criminal lawyer for 12 years I'm completely burned out, so I want to stop practicing law and do something else. Is it a good idea to start a business or should I be investing? Do you have any other ideas about what can I do with my money?" Self: "Have you considered looking for clinical law professor positions? In a role like that, you would manage a clinic and mentor students, usually representing clients with misdemeanor charges in a local court. I know you're burned out with your current practice, but this would likely improve your lifestyle and stress levels while making use of your developed expertise.\n\nUniversities are often great places to work. Also, if you have kids, many universities offer tuition waivers for dependents of employees.\n\nThe pay would likely be decent but significantly lower than your current income. That said, you have a lot of savings that can be used for additional income, and you kept your spending far below your income for the past several years."

User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "After working as a criminal lawyer for 12 years I'm completely burned out, so I want to stop practicing law and do something else. Is it a good idea to start a business or should I be investing? Do you have any other ideas about what can I do with my money?" Self: "Well what do you love to do?" User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "I enjoy managing people, organizing them, streamlining the work, finding proper specialists to do the specific task. Making a team or organisation more efficient is extremely delightful for me." CrappyOrigami (CrappyOrigami): "If you have money to power your retirement, think about non profits. They need dedicated managers and process people. They also tend to be very nice places to work. The only downside is that they tend to not pay very well. But, in your case, that wouldn't matter. " Dm1120 (Dm1120): "Upper management in a non-profit is often just as stressful or worse than in a for profit company. Still probably less stressful than being a criminal lawyer. " CrappyOrigami (CrappyOrigami): "Oh definitely... Didn't mean to downplay that. But, there are different kinds of stresses. It's just that NPOs need good people and they do provide some secondary benefits in that you are serving your community. "

User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "After working as a criminal lawyer for 12 years I'm completely burned out, so I want to stop practicing law and do something else. Is it a good idea to start a business or should I be investing? Do you have any other ideas about what can I do with my money?" Self: "You can afford to take a few months off, and then figure out your next move. "

User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "After working as a criminal lawyer for 12 years I'm completely burned out, so I want to stop practicing law and do something else. Is it a good idea to start a business or should I be investing? Do you have any other ideas about what can I do with my money?" Self: "I would quit work. Take some time off maybe 6 months to a year and do cool stuff like travel, read and whatnot, live thrifty though. I would take that time to think about what I would want to do in the future. Once I was done with taking time off I would take an entry level job doing something in the field that I enjoy. (ex. my wife like gardening and she would love to get a job in a nursery). The point of the entry level job is that it is sort of like an education that you get for doing work. Beats school since you get paid."

User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "After working as a criminal lawyer for 12 years I'm completely burned out, so I want to stop practicing law and do something else. Is it a good idea to start a business or should I be investing? Do you have any other ideas about what can I do with my money?" Self: "Move the money to investment accounts if it's literally sitting in your bank. Keep maybe 50k around or some amount if you plan on making a big purchase sometime soon, if not.. just keep 20k for an emergency. \n\nIf you want to manage people, is there any possibility of getting that kind of position at your current company? If not, maybe go for an MBA.\n\nYou can start a business if you want. Should only really do this if you think you have a good business model and the self discipline to run and build a business.\n\nWhat are your goals? Are you just looking to work in something more enjoyable / pay doesn't matter? Are you looking to retire in x years? or so y in z years? Have kids? Travel the world? Find some goals and milestones and make a plan.\n\nSay I wanted 2 mil by the time I was 50, in order to meet this goal I'd need to do a, b and c. If I want a kid, then I need to save 10k for medical costs. If I want to travel the world for a year, I'd need to save up 20k to go where I want and do what I want."

User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "After working as a criminal lawyer for 12 years I'm completely burned out, so I want to stop practicing law and do something else. Is it a good idea to start a business or should I be investing? Do you have any other ideas about what can I do with my money?" Self: "And here i am at 40 trying to restart my carrier with all my health problems :( "

User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "After working as a criminal lawyer for 12 years I'm completely burned out, so I want to stop practicing law and do something else. Is it a good idea to start a business or should I be investing? Do you have any other ideas about what can I do with my money?" Self: "Well what do you love to do?" User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "I enjoy managing people, organizing them, streamlining the work, finding proper specialists to do the specific task. Making a team or organisation more efficient is extremely delightful for me." shaggz235 (shaggz235): "Maybe make a company to streamline struggling law firms since that is what you are familiar with. On the plus side you wont have to practice law"

User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "After working as a criminal lawyer for 12 years I'm completely burned out, so I want to stop practicing law and do something else. Is it a good idea to start a business or should I be investing? Do you have any other ideas about what can I do with my money?" Self: "Well what do you love to do?" User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "I enjoy managing people, organizing them, streamlining the work, finding proper specialists to do the specific task. Making a team or organisation more efficient is extremely delightful for me." mikejc (mikejc): "Look up organizational change management. There is an entire industry built around this. Being that they are typically in consulting roles, it would be a good part time opportunity to work smaller projects and take time off to enjoy life if you don't need to maintain a full time salary."

User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "After working as a criminal lawyer for 12 years I'm completely burned out, so I want to stop practicing law and do something else. Is it a good idea to start a business or should I be investing? Do you have any other ideas about what can I do with my money?" Self: "Well what do you love to do?" User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "I enjoy managing people, organizing them, streamlining the work, finding proper specialists to do the specific task. Making a team or organisation more efficient is extremely delightful for me." Pixelplanet5 (Pixelplanet5): "you sound like the perfect person for consultant jobs like McKinsey.\n\nJust make sure that you never tell the truth and preset possible savings far beyond whats possible.\nOnce the money is in hand over the project to the new guy and let him deal with the problems.\n\nBut seriously, you sound like its your thing if you can live with promoting lies and putting peoples jobs on the line to present short term savings.\n" Koalachair (Koalachair): "People have been saying this all over the place. Looking for a good job with any degree? Try management consulting at Baine, BCG or McKinsey! Do y'all know how hard it is to consult for those shops? Someone who enjoys managing teams and process efficiency can't just waltz into a top 3 consulting firm." Pixelplanet5 (Pixelplanet5): "We have multiple people working at our company right now who previously worked for consulting companies. \nThey're all good yes but not like they're exceptional and also the most companies want fresh people that don't request huge salaries "

User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "After working as a criminal lawyer for 12 years I'm completely burned out, so I want to stop practicing law and do something else. Is it a good idea to start a business or should I be investing? Do you have any other ideas about what can I do with my money?" Self: "Let me hold a couple dollars..."

User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "After working as a criminal lawyer for 12 years I'm completely burned out, so I want to stop practicing law and do something else. Is it a good idea to start a business or should I be investing? Do you have any other ideas about what can I do with my money?" Self: "Well what do you love to do?" User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "I enjoy managing people, organizing them, streamlining the work, finding proper specialists to do the specific task. Making a team or organisation more efficient is extremely delightful for me." jeezmyeyesarefucky (jeezmyeyesarefucky): "Absolutely business. Alan Sugar said the best investments on the planet are people. If your skills are in managing them effectively, you should be managing. Doesn't really matter what area you're in, look for inefficiency (or something you're interested in, but you need some inefficiency) and exploit it. Employ people to exploit it for you. \n\nedit: as painful as it is to quote someone who's now the UK equivalent of Donald Trump, the guy used to be legit. " GeoStarRunner (GeoStarRunner): "Is potus not a legit or impressive position any more?" justanotherchimp (justanotherchimp): "Not really, no."

User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "After working as a criminal lawyer for 12 years I'm completely burned out, so I want to stop practicing law and do something else. Is it a good idea to start a business or should I be investing? Do you have any other ideas about what can I do with my money?" Self: "What's your bank account number, I'll take care of it for you. "

User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "After working as a criminal lawyer for 12 years I'm completely burned out, so I want to stop practicing law and do something else. Is it a good idea to start a business or should I be investing? Do you have any other ideas about what can I do with my money?" Self: "Well what do you love to do?" User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "I enjoy managing people, organizing them, streamlining the work, finding proper specialists to do the specific task. Making a team or organisation more efficient is extremely delightful for me." DadGrocks (DadGrocks): "live off interest as suggested above and volunteer your passion(skills) to a charitable organization?"

User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "After working as a criminal lawyer for 12 years I'm completely burned out, so I want to stop practicing law and do something else. Is it a good idea to start a business or should I be investing? Do you have any other ideas about what can I do with my money?" Self: "Real estate. Buy 2-3 apartment buildings. if you hire a good property manager you'll have nice income stream and will have to work less hours "

User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "After working as a criminal lawyer for 12 years I'm completely burned out, so I want to stop practicing law and do something else. Is it a good idea to start a business or should I be investing? Do you have any other ideas about what can I do with my money?" Self: "You are burned out. I was burned out.\n\nThis is not so much pure financial advice as it is advice on how to get yourself mentally to a place where you might feel ready to make the right decision.\n\nTake 6-12 months. Set a budget. Live more simply. Learn some new recipes and cook. Watch some TV. Sit at a cafe or bar in the afternoon while reading a book. Walk the dog. Whatever it is you never had time for, do it. Not necessarily the expensive things. Simple things like "if I had more time I would go for a walk to the park", or the beach, hang out with friends more often, etc. \n\nNow you do have time. Enjoy the simple things in life for a bit.\n\nRemember how valuable time felt when you were a lawyer and you had little of your own? That is a non-financial deficit you need to work on.\n\nOnce that burned out feeling fades, you will start seeing more clearly and you will start to work out where to want to be.\n\n\n\n"

User (NoOneCaredWhoIWas): "After working as a criminal lawyer for 12 years I'm completely burned out, so I want to stop practicing law and do something else. Is it a good idea to start a business or should I be investing? Do you have any other ideas about what can I do with my money?" Self: "Start a business - and lose it all. 9 out of 10 businesses fail.\n\nYou have a million bucks and a paid-for house and are a lawyer.\n\nSo am I.\n\nKnow what I did?\n\nRETIRED. Early.\n\n" cstroDangerman (cstroDangerman): "i am thinking about starting a business myself, so i did some research. Vast majority of the failed businesses were trying to sell a bad product or had bad managment. Saying that you shouldnt start a business because most fail is dumb, its the stupid people who tend to fail"

User (senseik): "Hey y'all. I'm looking into getting a house, and I would like some opinions about it. \n\nI make $77k/yr with the potential to earn more at straight time for over time. This is a new position for me that I just started at the beginning of the month. Im hired full-time by a company that contracts out services. I'm not sure what job security will be like in this position but I think I would be able to find something else if this dries up. \n\nI currently live with my boyfriend and he would be coming with me but I would be financing the house on my own. I've been preapproved for $200k. \n\n By the time I'm looking to move i expect to have $20k in the bank. I'm looking at places from 130-160k and plan to put down 5%. \n\nWe would also plan to rent 1-2 rooms out for around $500-600/month, but that obviously isn't guaranteed as it relies on finding a renter. \n\nMy credit score is 695. I've got some old medical debt. If I wait I might could clear some of it up by paying for delete and get my credit score higher. However, this debt is years old and I was planning to wait for it to fall off of my credit report. \n\nWhat do you guys think? Will I be okay to buy in the next couple of months? I know the standard advice here is to save 20%, and I obviously don't have that. We are thinking we'll be around this city for about 5 years so it might not make sense to save for a year and then buy. \n\nThanks in advance for any input. " Self: "Wait until you have 20% for a down-payment. "

User (mizfku7): "I just started a sales job and my parents told me to keep track of the miles I drive while working. Is there any good apps that I can go back from the day before and plug in the miles I drove for business so I can write it off for tax returns. Want to get ahead of this and an easy to use app to help me with this Thanks!" Self: "I use fuel buddy on android. There's a free version but the paid version is only about five bucks. "

User (mizfku7): "I just started a sales job and my parents told me to keep track of the miles I drive while working. Is there any good apps that I can go back from the day before and plug in the miles I drove for business so I can write it off for tax returns. Want to get ahead of this and an easy to use app to help me with this Thanks!" Self: "Does your employer not reimburse you for mileage at all? I'm in sales as well and I get a little kickback per mile (very little). They also provide an app just called Mileage Tracker. Don't know if it's free for them or not.\n\nRemember to make business stops near home frequently. " User (mizfku7): "I get a gas allowance but thats about it. " Self: "If you're in the USA and they give you under the federal allowance (about 55 cents/mile I think). Then absolutely claim the miles. Anything between the federal and what they give you is tax deductible. \n\nGas allowance is about all I get too. It's a pain to deal with during taxes because you have to determine exact mileage driven and figure out what percentage is business or personal. But it's worth the effort." User (mizfku7): "Thanks for the reply. I did not know any of that so I really appreciate that."

User (bvlax2005): "Long story short: I used student loans to pay for college, however, an unexpected personal issue had me take time off from school. Initially I didn't think there would be an issue as student loans in the US have a six month grace period for you to return to school. However, things did not work out as planned and I have yet to return to school. \n\nThen the letters began... my grace period ended and they wanted payments. At the time I literally had no money after rent and food. I knew that they would extend your grace period if you made less than a certain amount and I knew I qualified. But a good dose of crippling anxiety made me panic and I ignored them. Eventually I tried getting a hold of them via email but I never heard back. \n\nNow it's been over a year and my student loans have been sold off to a debt collector. I am much more financially stable and would be able to make payments if the loans were still held by the Department of Education, but they aren't. Debt collector wants my $30k now. Their best "offer" was a three months payment plan... \n\nWhat can I do now? Is there anyway I can get the loan transferred back to the original holder? Or some other option? My credit is suffering massively and I simply don't have the money to pay in a lump sum. " Self: "You may find these links helpful:\n\n- [What's the best way to pay down my debt?](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/debt#wiki_what.27s_the_best_way_to_pay_down_my_debt.3F)\n- [Dealing with collections](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/collections)\n- [Credit Repair](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/credit_building#wiki_i_have_bad_credit.2C_and_i_am_looking_to_repair_it.)\n\n*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/personalfinance) if you have any questions or concerns.*"

User (bvlax2005): "Long story short: I used student loans to pay for college, however, an unexpected personal issue had me take time off from school. Initially I didn't think there would be an issue as student loans in the US have a six month grace period for you to return to school. However, things did not work out as planned and I have yet to return to school. \n\nThen the letters began... my grace period ended and they wanted payments. At the time I literally had no money after rent and food. I knew that they would extend your grace period if you made less than a certain amount and I knew I qualified. But a good dose of crippling anxiety made me panic and I ignored them. Eventually I tried getting a hold of them via email but I never heard back. \n\nNow it's been over a year and my student loans have been sold off to a debt collector. I am much more financially stable and would be able to make payments if the loans were still held by the Department of Education, but they aren't. Debt collector wants my $30k now. Their best "offer" was a three months payment plan... \n\nWhat can I do now? Is there anyway I can get the loan transferred back to the original holder? Or some other option? My credit is suffering massively and I simply don't have the money to pay in a lump sum. " Self: ">Is there anyway I can get the loan transferred back to the original holder?\n\nNope.\n\n>Or some other option?\n\nSee about taking a personal loan for the amount that you can pay over a longer period and paying off the amount in collection."

User (bvlax2005): "Long story short: I used student loans to pay for college, however, an unexpected personal issue had me take time off from school. Initially I didn't think there would be an issue as student loans in the US have a six month grace period for you to return to school. However, things did not work out as planned and I have yet to return to school. \n\nThen the letters began... my grace period ended and they wanted payments. At the time I literally had no money after rent and food. I knew that they would extend your grace period if you made less than a certain amount and I knew I qualified. But a good dose of crippling anxiety made me panic and I ignored them. Eventually I tried getting a hold of them via email but I never heard back. \n\nNow it's been over a year and my student loans have been sold off to a debt collector. I am much more financially stable and would be able to make payments if the loans were still held by the Department of Education, but they aren't. Debt collector wants my $30k now. Their best "offer" was a three months payment plan... \n\nWhat can I do now? Is there anyway I can get the loan transferred back to the original holder? Or some other option? My credit is suffering massively and I simply don't have the money to pay in a lump sum. " Self: "Way to late for you to do something about it now. Calculate the max you can afford per month and offer it to the collection agency as a payment plan.\n\nYou're going to have to negotiate something with them and convince them to give you a better deal."

User (bvlax2005): "Long story short: I used student loans to pay for college, however, an unexpected personal issue had me take time off from school. Initially I didn't think there would be an issue as student loans in the US have a six month grace period for you to return to school. However, things did not work out as planned and I have yet to return to school. \n\nThen the letters began... my grace period ended and they wanted payments. At the time I literally had no money after rent and food. I knew that they would extend your grace period if you made less than a certain amount and I knew I qualified. But a good dose of crippling anxiety made me panic and I ignored them. Eventually I tried getting a hold of them via email but I never heard back. \n\nNow it's been over a year and my student loans have been sold off to a debt collector. I am much more financially stable and would be able to make payments if the loans were still held by the Department of Education, but they aren't. Debt collector wants my $30k now. Their best "offer" was a three months payment plan... \n\nWhat can I do now? Is there anyway I can get the loan transferred back to the original holder? Or some other option? My credit is suffering massively and I simply don't have the money to pay in a lump sum. " Self: "Looks to me like there actually may be something you can do:\n\nhttps://studentaid.ed.gov/sa/repay-loans/default/collections" User (bvlax2005): "This is EXACTLY what I'm looking for. Thank you so very much. "

User (Solomon_Gunn): "As of now I mainly use it just for gas money or little things here and there, then pay it off entirely within the week. I'm still in the habit of just using my debit card or cash. Just want to get the best credit score as quickly as possible." Self: "You may find these links helpful:\n\n- [Credit-related wiki pages](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/index#wiki_credit)\n- [Credit Reports](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/credit_reports) \n- [FICO / Credit Scores](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/fico)\n- [Improving Credit Scores and Building Credit](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/credit_building)\n\n*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/personalfinance) if you have any questions or concerns.*"

User (Solomon_Gunn): "As of now I mainly use it just for gas money or little things here and there, then pay it off entirely within the week. I'm still in the habit of just using my debit card or cash. Just want to get the best credit score as quickly as possible." Self: "Stop paying off the card every week.\n\nWait for the statement to come in the mail.\n\nPay the statement balance by the statement due date once a month." yuseffuhler (yuseffuhler): "Idk why you got downvoted. Credit utilization is reported once a month. If it's almost always at zero, it'll be zero. Paying on time every month is the most surefire way to build credit. "

User (norn_necro): "I currently have a Discover it Card, with a credit rating 790 (according to them). I wanted to get another credit card eventually because some places I've been to don't accept discover. Is the chase freedom a good choice? Discover also does the rotating 5% rewards a quarter thing and i think its great. Plus they give $150 bonus if you spend $500 on your first 3 months\n\nI guess customer service is important. I've never had anything happen to me but if it were, it'd be nice to be with a company that provides good customer service. Any other cards you guys can recommend? I guess my main priorities for a card is the 0% APR for x months and customer service.\n\nedit:also looking at the chase freedom unlimited since it offer 1.5% on everything and I already have rotating 5% from my discover card" Self: "Why is your main priority 0% apr? Do you keep a balance?" User (norn_necro): "I plan on saving up for things in the upcoming months. I don't plan on keeping a high utilization rate, ill still be making payments on the card but just not in full so I can save up a bit. " Self: "If you want to save, then don't spend the money you can't afford. That's how people get into trouble with CC debts.\n\nThat being said, Chase Freedom is a good card. I used it for the 5% category."

User (mrdangdang): "It slipped my mind. I don't like autopay, but maybe I should enroll in that to ensure this doesn't happen again. Anyway, is this gonna screw with my credit, despite the small amount?" Self: "You may find these links helpful:\n\n- [What's the best way to pay down my debt?](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/debt#wiki_what.27s_the_best_way_to_pay_down_my_debt.3F)\n- [Dealing with collections](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/collections)\n- [Credit Repair](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/credit_building#wiki_i_have_bad_credit.2C_and_i_am_looking_to_repair_it.)\n\n*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/personalfinance) if you have any questions or concerns.*"

User (mrdangdang): "It slipped my mind. I don't like autopay, but maybe I should enroll in that to ensure this doesn't happen again. Anyway, is this gonna screw with my credit, despite the small amount?" Self: "Nope - only payments 30 days late or more gets reported." User (mrdangdang): "Oh, awesome. That's good news. \n\nThank you. \n\n\n" theryman (theryman): "They may try to charge you a late fee- usually 25-35 bucks. If they do, call them and they will probably waive it if this has not happened before." User (mrdangdang): "Thank you. I'll be sure to check for that. "

User (mrdangdang): "It slipped my mind. I don't like autopay, but maybe I should enroll in that to ensure this doesn't happen again. Anyway, is this gonna screw with my credit, despite the small amount?" Self: "I guess you were a day late and a .....$1.......38 short ?\n\nBa dam tsss"

User (mrdangdang): "It slipped my mind. I don't like autopay, but maybe I should enroll in that to ensure this doesn't happen again. Anyway, is this gonna screw with my credit, despite the small amount?" Self: "I bet a friendly call could get them to reverse the charges."

User (mrdangdang): "It slipped my mind. I don't like autopay, but maybe I should enroll in that to ensure this doesn't happen again. Anyway, is this gonna screw with my credit, despite the small amount?" Self: "Here is a LPT, and i'll share it here because i'm banned from LPT. If you are not one to normally pay off your balance in full every month. Instead of waiting until it's due, as soon as you get your credit card bill in the mail (or online or whatever). Make the minimum payment right away. Then later on, towards the end of the month, pay as much as you can to knock that bill down some. If you do it that way you will always be ahead of the game, and not behind. " User (mrdangdang): "Thanks. I prefer to pay it all right away, I just forgot about that charge. : /"

User (mrdangdang): "It slipped my mind. I don't like autopay, but maybe I should enroll in that to ensure this doesn't happen again. Anyway, is this gonna screw with my credit, despite the small amount?" Self: "Nope - only payments 30 days late or more gets reported." User (mrdangdang): "Oh, awesome. That's good news. \n\nThank you. \n\n\n" theryman (theryman): "They may try to charge you a late fee- usually 25-35 bucks. If they do, call them and they will probably waive it if this has not happened before." DaveInPhilly (DaveInPhilly): "Yes, definitely call. Over the years I have done dumb things like forgetting to hit the submit button or something like that that resulted in the payment not going through. They always waived the late fee for me. \n\nAs long as your account is in good standing and it isn't a regular occurrence it should be an easy fix. "

User (mrdangdang): "It slipped my mind. I don't like autopay, but maybe I should enroll in that to ensure this doesn't happen again. Anyway, is this gonna screw with my credit, despite the small amount?" Self: "Yes, you should setup the autopay for minimum payment. You never forget to pay your credit card bill.... until you forget to pay your credit card bill.\n\nYou can usually setup the minimum payment to go out only if you haven't made a payment so far that month. This is great because if you already made a payment, nothing happens. However, if it is ever the case that you forgot to pay, the minimum payment will auto pay for you. Also, if you set the autopay to go out a few days before the payment is due, you will receive a email that the autopay went out. If you check your email daily, this will trigger you to pay off the remaining balance in case you had forgotten." User (mrdangdang): "This is great advice. Thank you. "

User (mrdangdang): "It slipped my mind. I don't like autopay, but maybe I should enroll in that to ensure this doesn't happen again. Anyway, is this gonna screw with my credit, despite the small amount?" Self: "Nope - only payments 30 days late or more gets reported." User (mrdangdang): "Oh, awesome. That's good news. \n\nThank you. \n\n\n" theryman (theryman): "They may try to charge you a late fee- usually 25-35 bucks. If they do, call them and they will probably waive it if this has not happened before." LacesOutLocke (LacesOutLocke): "Actually I used to work for a credit card call center and I don't think they can charge you a fee legally more than the principal balance... Don't quote me though. "

User (mrdangdang): "It slipped my mind. I don't like autopay, but maybe I should enroll in that to ensure this doesn't happen again. Anyway, is this gonna screw with my credit, despite the small amount?" Self: "Make sure they don't charge you a $30.00 late fee. If you call and talk to them they will reverse that charge assuming you have a solid track record of payment. I did the exact same thing, called the next day cause I was worried about my credit score. " 00__00__never (00__00__never): "Call them."

User (DepthPatrol): "After reading through what seems like hundreds of threads, I have come to the conclusion that my Roth IRA target date retirement fund has an expense ratio (1.35%) that is way too high. Granted, the amount in my Roth is by no means staggering, but the 8k I am actively contributing in there and growing seems at risk solely due to the ability to have it grow in a fund with lower expenses. I've called USAA before to work with someone to switch it to some vanguard funds or other available through USAA, but was talked out of it due to the negligible returns for switching. Can anyone offer advice on if it would be worth it to seek out a Roth IRA vehicle, probably a target retirement fund, that would net a lower expense to keep over time? Thanks for everyone's insight on this subreddit in advance, you all are incredible tools for learning!" Self: "You may find these links helpful:\n\n- [Retirement Accounts](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/index#wiki_retirement_accounts) (articles on 401(k) plans, IRAs, and more)\n- ["How to handle $"](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/commontopics)\n\n*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/personalfinance) if you have any questions or concerns.*"

User (DepthPatrol): "After reading through what seems like hundreds of threads, I have come to the conclusion that my Roth IRA target date retirement fund has an expense ratio (1.35%) that is way too high. Granted, the amount in my Roth is by no means staggering, but the 8k I am actively contributing in there and growing seems at risk solely due to the ability to have it grow in a fund with lower expenses. I've called USAA before to work with someone to switch it to some vanguard funds or other available through USAA, but was talked out of it due to the negligible returns for switching. Can anyone offer advice on if it would be worth it to seek out a Roth IRA vehicle, probably a target retirement fund, that would net a lower expense to keep over time? Thanks for everyone's insight on this subreddit in advance, you all are incredible tools for learning!" Self: "I can give you the math formula, but it's easy in Google Sheets or Excel to figure out the delta with something like\n\n =FV(6%-0.35%,30,-8000,-8000)-FV(6%-1.35%,30,-8000,-8000) => $104,511\n\nThat is, at a 6% return (we'll say on top of inflation to keep this in today's dollars), 1.35% vs 0.35%, with $8k in there now and $8k contributed per year (they are outflows - think they are leaving your wallet, so they're negative), over 30 years, the difference is $104,511. I'd say that's worth a phone call :)" DaveInPhilly (DaveInPhilly): "Wow, I really hope your math is wrong because that is just sickening. \n\nWe used to have Fidelity Target Date ETFs in our 401k but my company just changed the fund options. Now we have a handful of high ER funds. Fortunately they added a target date option after a bunch of people freaked out. They're Managed Retirement Trusts rather than ETFs but they still have pretty low ERs. " Self: "Haha, feel free to check it against any online calculator, [but I think I'm right](http://i.imgur.com/5zuYyTj.png). For what it's wroth, those numbers are all a bit extreme - you usually don't find 1% savings for the same type of fund, and it is 30 years with $248,000 invested overall."

User (DepthPatrol): "After reading through what seems like hundreds of threads, I have come to the conclusion that my Roth IRA target date retirement fund has an expense ratio (1.35%) that is way too high. Granted, the amount in my Roth is by no means staggering, but the 8k I am actively contributing in there and growing seems at risk solely due to the ability to have it grow in a fund with lower expenses. I've called USAA before to work with someone to switch it to some vanguard funds or other available through USAA, but was talked out of it due to the negligible returns for switching. Can anyone offer advice on if it would be worth it to seek out a Roth IRA vehicle, probably a target retirement fund, that would net a lower expense to keep over time? Thanks for everyone's insight on this subreddit in advance, you all are incredible tools for learning!" Self: "I can give you the math formula, but it's easy in Google Sheets or Excel to figure out the delta with something like\n\n =FV(6%-0.35%,30,-8000,-8000)-FV(6%-1.35%,30,-8000,-8000) => $104,511\n\nThat is, at a 6% return (we'll say on top of inflation to keep this in today's dollars), 1.35% vs 0.35%, with $8k in there now and $8k contributed per year (they are outflows - think they are leaving your wallet, so they're negative), over 30 years, the difference is $104,511. I'd say that's worth a phone call :)" User (DepthPatrol): "Mind blown. I need to get into the nitty gritty and start using worksheets to map my decisions like you just replied with. Thank you so much, I really appreciate the time you took to give me this advice. So I need to basically change the fund to something vanguard or total market tracking with the lowest fees and let it ride for a while. I'll be choosing those funds today and giving them a call :)" wijwijwij (wijwijwij): "Roth IRA can be held wherever you like as custodian. If your current custodian does not make it easy to access low cost mutual funds or ETFs, just do a trustee-to-trustee transfer to a different custodian, like Vanguard, Fidelity, Schwab, etc. \n\nThe transfer is not considered a distribution or contribition, and preserves the tax-advantaged nature of your balance in the account." User (DepthPatrol): "Thanks for the reply. I'm looking into vanguard as the holder and transferring it over this week :)"

User (DepthPatrol): "After reading through what seems like hundreds of threads, I have come to the conclusion that my Roth IRA target date retirement fund has an expense ratio (1.35%) that is way too high. Granted, the amount in my Roth is by no means staggering, but the 8k I am actively contributing in there and growing seems at risk solely due to the ability to have it grow in a fund with lower expenses. I've called USAA before to work with someone to switch it to some vanguard funds or other available through USAA, but was talked out of it due to the negligible returns for switching. Can anyone offer advice on if it would be worth it to seek out a Roth IRA vehicle, probably a target retirement fund, that would net a lower expense to keep over time? Thanks for everyone's insight on this subreddit in advance, you all are incredible tools for learning!" Self: "I was in the exact same situation as you are...USAA target managed fund for my Roth IRA I had for years..."discovered" Reddit's personal finance and read all about expense ratios and the like. I opened a new Roth IRA at Vanguard and had the USAA Roth transfered over to them. I didn't go with a target fund though...I decided on their Total Market US and International index funds with much lower expense ratios than the USAA target. The hardest part was getting over my fear that I was going to do something wrong and lose all my money...just open the Vanguard account online and follow the instructions. Or, just call them...they are really helpful and walk you through everything." User (DepthPatrol): "Thanks for the reply. Great to hear you had the exact same situation. I'm going to open an account with vanguard and have my direct deposits just fund it. Sounds easy enough though!" Self: "I'm not totally clear from your reply...but are you still going to move your USAA one to Vanguard? If not...keep in mind that you can only contribute a certain amount to IRAs in a given year. Also, if you have $10k in a single Vanguard fund you can get the admiral shares instead of investor shares which have an even lower expense ratio....so that USAA $8k plus your direct deposits could get you admiral shares pretty quickly. " User (DepthPatrol): "Yes I am planning on making a transfer from my USAA Roth IRA to Vanguard. Not sure which fund yet. But I assume I can choose whichever to begin and once my balance hits 10k+ I cn then transfer it into an admiral account of my choosing. Good call." wijwijwij (wijwijwij): "The transfer will take some time, since you will probably have to fill out some paperwork to mail in. Customer service reps can step you through the process.\n\nOnce your balance is in new account, you could buy ETFs that have expense ratios like the Admiral shares mutual funds, if you want, in your Roth IRA. For example, VTI, VXUS, BND. \n\nLater when your balance is high enough, you can sell the ETFs and buy mutual funds, with no tax consequences because it's in a Roth IRA."

User (PFThrowaway9090): "Hi PF,\n\nI've been presented with an interesting offer and would like some outside advice. \n\nI graduated last May, and have a good job paying 66k annually. I have no debts, a paid off car, and live with my mom while I save up money to move out. \n\nLast week, a family friend came into a large sum of money, large enough for him to buy a nice home in Florida and live out his days. He has a townhome here in suburban NY that he would like to sell as a result. Based on listings I've seen and realtors I've talked to, the fair market price for this property is between $275-285k. To avoid paying the 6% to a realtor and to help me out a bit, he's offered the place to me for $240k. \n\nHe's looking to move out in the spring, and by that time I'd have a bit above $50k saved up. If I put 10% down, here's what the numbers would look like monthly:\n\n*$1070 Principal and interest\n*$600 Property Tax\n*$67 Homeowners Insurance\n*$106 PMI\n*$375 HOA\n*TOTAL: $2217\n\nMy take home pay currently after 401k/Healthcare/Tax is $3850 per month, which would leave me a bit tight. A couple things to note, though, is that I'm expecting a 5% bonus in December and a similar percentage raise in the spring. Additionally, if I move to NY State where this townhouse is located, I would be exempt from state income tax because my company is part of the Startup NY program. This would effectively give me another 5-6% raise. \n\nWhat do you think? I know it's tight, but it seems like a great opportunity. " Self: "You might have incorrectly formatted line breaks. To create a line break, either put two spaces at the end of the line or put an extra blank line in-between lines. ([See Reddit's page on commenting for more information.](http://www.reddit.com/wiki/commenting))\n\nI have attempted to automatically reformat your text with fixed line breaks.\n\nYour text might contain incorrectly formatted list(s). To format a list properly, add a space between the bullet points and list items, and add a blank line before the start of the list.\n\n----\n\n> Hi PF, \n> \n> I've been presented with an interesting offer and would like some outside advice. \n> \n> I graduated last May, and have a good job paying 66k annually. I have no debts, a paid off car, and live with my mom while I save up money to move out. \n> \n> Last week, a family friend came into a large sum of money, large enough for him to buy a nice home in Florida and live out his days. He has a townhome here in suburban NY that he would like to sell as a result. Based on listings I've seen and realtors I've talked to, the fair market price for this property is between $275-285k. To avoid paying the 6% to a realtor and to help me out a bit, he's offered the place to me for $240k. \n> \n> He's looking to move out in the spring, and by that time I'd have a bit above $50k saved up. If I put 10% down, here's what the numbers would look like monthly: \n> \n> \n> * $1070 Principal and interest \n> * $600 Property Tax \n> * $67 Homeowners Insurance \n> * $106 PMI \n> * $375 HOA \n> * TOTAL: $2217\n> \n> My take home pay currently after 401k/Healthcare/Tax is $3850 per month, which would leave me a bit tight. A couple things to note, though, is that I'm expecting a 5% bonus in December and a similar percentage raise in the spring. Additionally, if I move to NY State where this townhouse is located, I would be exempt from state income tax because my company is part of the Startup NY program. This would effectively give me another 5-6% raise. \n> \n> What do you think? I know it's tight, but it seems like a great opportunity. \n>\n\n----\n\n^(I am a bot. Contact) ^[pentium4borg](https://www.reddit.com/user/pentium4borg) ^(with any feedback.)"

User (PFThrowaway9090): "Hi PF,\n\nI've been presented with an interesting offer and would like some outside advice. \n\nI graduated last May, and have a good job paying 66k annually. I have no debts, a paid off car, and live with my mom while I save up money to move out. \n\nLast week, a family friend came into a large sum of money, large enough for him to buy a nice home in Florida and live out his days. He has a townhome here in suburban NY that he would like to sell as a result. Based on listings I've seen and realtors I've talked to, the fair market price for this property is between $275-285k. To avoid paying the 6% to a realtor and to help me out a bit, he's offered the place to me for $240k. \n\nHe's looking to move out in the spring, and by that time I'd have a bit above $50k saved up. If I put 10% down, here's what the numbers would look like monthly:\n\n*$1070 Principal and interest\n*$600 Property Tax\n*$67 Homeowners Insurance\n*$106 PMI\n*$375 HOA\n*TOTAL: $2217\n\nMy take home pay currently after 401k/Healthcare/Tax is $3850 per month, which would leave me a bit tight. A couple things to note, though, is that I'm expecting a 5% bonus in December and a similar percentage raise in the spring. Additionally, if I move to NY State where this townhouse is located, I would be exempt from state income tax because my company is part of the Startup NY program. This would effectively give me another 5-6% raise. \n\nWhat do you think? I know it's tight, but it seems like a great opportunity. " Self: "You probably -could- you'll need to live frugally. I'd make sure to get an inspection before buying the place. That's a suspiciously large discount being offered. "

User (PFThrowaway9090): "Hi PF,\n\nI've been presented with an interesting offer and would like some outside advice. \n\nI graduated last May, and have a good job paying 66k annually. I have no debts, a paid off car, and live with my mom while I save up money to move out. \n\nLast week, a family friend came into a large sum of money, large enough for him to buy a nice home in Florida and live out his days. He has a townhome here in suburban NY that he would like to sell as a result. Based on listings I've seen and realtors I've talked to, the fair market price for this property is between $275-285k. To avoid paying the 6% to a realtor and to help me out a bit, he's offered the place to me for $240k. \n\nHe's looking to move out in the spring, and by that time I'd have a bit above $50k saved up. If I put 10% down, here's what the numbers would look like monthly:\n\n*$1070 Principal and interest\n*$600 Property Tax\n*$67 Homeowners Insurance\n*$106 PMI\n*$375 HOA\n*TOTAL: $2217\n\nMy take home pay currently after 401k/Healthcare/Tax is $3850 per month, which would leave me a bit tight. A couple things to note, though, is that I'm expecting a 5% bonus in December and a similar percentage raise in the spring. Additionally, if I move to NY State where this townhouse is located, I would be exempt from state income tax because my company is part of the Startup NY program. This would effectively give me another 5-6% raise. \n\nWhat do you think? I know it's tight, but it seems like a great opportunity. " Self: "If you are going to have 50k saved up, why not pay a larger down payment and avoid the PMI? \n\nAre property taxes really that high in NY? Jeez. \n\nAlso, the Insurance number looks low. I have a 250k insurance policy and my premiums are $138 a month. Maybe it's just higher in my state, I don't know. I've shopped around but haven't really found a better rate.\n\nThe real issue here is your income. You're going to have to sit down and make a mock budget to see how this would fit your lifestyle. There a lot of extra expenses that come with owning a home. Utilities/Phone/Garbage/Internet/Sewer/Groceries, and general upkeep, etc. Especially if it's an older home, you will need to keep a good emergency fund going for repairs.\n"

User (PFThrowaway9090): "Hi PF,\n\nI've been presented with an interesting offer and would like some outside advice. \n\nI graduated last May, and have a good job paying 66k annually. I have no debts, a paid off car, and live with my mom while I save up money to move out. \n\nLast week, a family friend came into a large sum of money, large enough for him to buy a nice home in Florida and live out his days. He has a townhome here in suburban NY that he would like to sell as a result. Based on listings I've seen and realtors I've talked to, the fair market price for this property is between $275-285k. To avoid paying the 6% to a realtor and to help me out a bit, he's offered the place to me for $240k. \n\nHe's looking to move out in the spring, and by that time I'd have a bit above $50k saved up. If I put 10% down, here's what the numbers would look like monthly:\n\n*$1070 Principal and interest\n*$600 Property Tax\n*$67 Homeowners Insurance\n*$106 PMI\n*$375 HOA\n*TOTAL: $2217\n\nMy take home pay currently after 401k/Healthcare/Tax is $3850 per month, which would leave me a bit tight. A couple things to note, though, is that I'm expecting a 5% bonus in December and a similar percentage raise in the spring. Additionally, if I move to NY State where this townhouse is located, I would be exempt from state income tax because my company is part of the Startup NY program. This would effectively give me another 5-6% raise. \n\nWhat do you think? I know it's tight, but it seems like a great opportunity. " Self: "Well. You technically CAN buy it. \nLooks like it'll be tight, and homes generally come with A LOT of unexpected expenses. So probably get a professional to come check it out, make sure theres not anything you are gonna have to do that you can't afford. \nSeriously though, owning a place generally means expenses literally coming out of nowhere all the time. If it's going to be super tight financially, maybe consider renting out a room if there's an extra one. \nDon't spend ALL of your savings on the down payment either. \nAnd don't feel like you need to buy it just to help the friend out. That would be a looooong lasting mistake just for politeness. " Smitty_Oom (Smitty_Oom): "> generally means expenses literally coming out of nowhere all the time.\n\nAbsolutely, 100% true. Doesn't matter the condition/age of the house, either - shit is still going to happen. Sump pumps will quit and flood your basement, windows will spring a leak, siding will get loose in a storm, driveways will crack, etc etc etc... and that's not taking into account that you still have to pay for furnishing and updating."

User (PFThrowaway9090): "Hi PF,\n\nI've been presented with an interesting offer and would like some outside advice. \n\nI graduated last May, and have a good job paying 66k annually. I have no debts, a paid off car, and live with my mom while I save up money to move out. \n\nLast week, a family friend came into a large sum of money, large enough for him to buy a nice home in Florida and live out his days. He has a townhome here in suburban NY that he would like to sell as a result. Based on listings I've seen and realtors I've talked to, the fair market price for this property is between $275-285k. To avoid paying the 6% to a realtor and to help me out a bit, he's offered the place to me for $240k. \n\nHe's looking to move out in the spring, and by that time I'd have a bit above $50k saved up. If I put 10% down, here's what the numbers would look like monthly:\n\n*$1070 Principal and interest\n*$600 Property Tax\n*$67 Homeowners Insurance\n*$106 PMI\n*$375 HOA\n*TOTAL: $2217\n\nMy take home pay currently after 401k/Healthcare/Tax is $3850 per month, which would leave me a bit tight. A couple things to note, though, is that I'm expecting a 5% bonus in December and a similar percentage raise in the spring. Additionally, if I move to NY State where this townhouse is located, I would be exempt from state income tax because my company is part of the Startup NY program. This would effectively give me another 5-6% raise. \n\nWhat do you think? I know it's tight, but it seems like a great opportunity. " Self: "Well. You technically CAN buy it. \nLooks like it'll be tight, and homes generally come with A LOT of unexpected expenses. So probably get a professional to come check it out, make sure theres not anything you are gonna have to do that you can't afford. \nSeriously though, owning a place generally means expenses literally coming out of nowhere all the time. If it's going to be super tight financially, maybe consider renting out a room if there's an extra one. \nDon't spend ALL of your savings on the down payment either. \nAnd don't feel like you need to buy it just to help the friend out. That would be a looooong lasting mistake just for politeness. " User (PFThrowaway9090): "Understood. My girlfriend will most likely be living with me and makes a similar salary, so the bills would be split. I just wanted to make sure that I could afford it on my own first. \n\nRegarding the maintenance, the townhome was completely updated in 2013. New kitchen, flooring, boiler, carpet, basically everything. In addition, all exterior maintenance is covered by the HOA. " Smitty_Oom (Smitty_Oom): "Things still happen. My home was remodeled/updated in 2014, but I've still had various repairs/maintenance items that cost thousands of dollars. \n\nHaving a HOA will help, but you're paying $400/month for that, so it's still expensive in the end."

User (fantasticfore): "I saw a post yesterday about someone using gas gift cards to reap some benefits and budget. I was wondering if anyone has done the same for helping control their spending habits while keeping on budget. I understand it can be trivial but I also see some merit. " Self: "You may find these links helpful:\n\n- [Budgeting wiki page](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/budgeting)\n- [Spreadsheets section of the Tools wiki page](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/tools#wiki_redditor_created.3A)\n\n*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/personalfinance) if you have any questions or concerns.*"

User (fantasticfore): "I saw a post yesterday about someone using gas gift cards to reap some benefits and budget. I was wondering if anyone has done the same for helping control their spending habits while keeping on budget. I understand it can be trivial but I also see some merit. " Self: "I somewhat use this system but only for one specific event/purpose that I just started in the last few months. \n\nI get grocery points for buying food and these points either translate to free groceries or the ability to buy oodles of gift cards. What I have been doing is saving my points and then using them as my budget for gifts and donations. \n\nI either buy a gift card as the actual gift/donation or I use the gift card myself at the specific store to buy the gift. The point being that really the amount of free points I accumulate becomes my budget for the gift. \n\nI generally know how many points I accumulate on average each month so I can budget an amount per person and anything extra is a bonus, or if I come under then I just have to be a bit more frugal and find some sales/coupons. In 2017 I am going to test this for the entire year and see if I can accumulate enough (without changing my buying habits) to basically fund Christmas gifts and holiday donations. \n\nI wouldn't specifically buy gift cards to budget though. I would be concerned about losing the card, the complicated nature of having a number of cards for different stores and also I just think it would be harder to track your spending. "

User (fantasticfore): "I saw a post yesterday about someone using gas gift cards to reap some benefits and budget. I was wondering if anyone has done the same for helping control their spending habits while keeping on budget. I understand it can be trivial but I also see some merit. " Self: "When getting out of debt I used prepaid cards for grocery and gas purchases. I think the most beneficial use of this was in retraining my spending habits. I could just spend cash anywhere, but my grocery and gas money was already spent and I only had a specific amount of it. It made me think hard about what I really needed to last a month."

User (fantasticfore): "I saw a post yesterday about someone using gas gift cards to reap some benefits and budget. I was wondering if anyone has done the same for helping control their spending habits while keeping on budget. I understand it can be trivial but I also see some merit. " Self: "IMO it'd be easier and better to just go into a cash envelope budgeting system then to run around buying gift cards for all the stores you go to for budgeting purposes." User (fantasticfore): "Simplicity wins eh? Do you find yourself wanting to move the money around though? Or if its in the envelope, it's staying there until another time when you need to budget? " Self: "> Simplicity wins eh? Do you find yourself wanting to move the money around though? Or if its in the envelope, it's staying there until another time when you need to budget? \n\nI don't budget to be honest. I just toss everything onto my credit card for cashback and hope for the best. Generally being a non-spendy person it's been working out.\n\nI guess it depends on each personality.\n\nIf you're the type to "rob peter to pay paul" when it comes to shopping $$ vs grocery $$ vs gas $$ then maybe you do need to force yourself to stick to gift cards.\n\nBut at that point I would also recommend you read through this: http://www.wikihow.com/Build-Self%E2%80%90Control" Metta_wool_fleece (Metta_wool_fleece): "> Simplicity wins eh? Do you find yourself wanting to move the money around though? Or if its in the envelope, it's staying there until another time when you need to budget?\n> \n> I don't budget to be honest. I just toss everything onto my credit card for cashback and hope for the best. Generally being a non-spendy person it's been working out.\n> \n> I guess it depends on each personality.\n> \n> If you're the type to "rob peter to pay paul" when it comes to shopping $$ vs grocery $$ vs gas $$ then maybe you do need to force yourself to stick to gift cards.\n> \n> But at that point I would also recommend you read through this: http://www.wikihow.com/Build-Self%E2%80%90Control\n\nThat's a good link you provided " User (fantasticfore): "Agreed! Solid link. "

User (fantasticfore): "I saw a post yesterday about someone using gas gift cards to reap some benefits and budget. I was wondering if anyone has done the same for helping control their spending habits while keeping on budget. I understand it can be trivial but I also see some merit. " Self: "IMO it'd be easier and better to just go into a cash envelope budgeting system then to run around buying gift cards for all the stores you go to for budgeting purposes." User (fantasticfore): "Simplicity wins eh? Do you find yourself wanting to move the money around though? Or if its in the envelope, it's staying there until another time when you need to budget? " Self: "> Simplicity wins eh? Do you find yourself wanting to move the money around though? Or if its in the envelope, it's staying there until another time when you need to budget? \n\nI don't budget to be honest. I just toss everything onto my credit card for cashback and hope for the best. Generally being a non-spendy person it's been working out.\n\nI guess it depends on each personality.\n\nIf you're the type to "rob peter to pay paul" when it comes to shopping $$ vs grocery $$ vs gas $$ then maybe you do need to force yourself to stick to gift cards.\n\nBut at that point I would also recommend you read through this: http://www.wikihow.com/Build-Self%E2%80%90Control" User (fantasticfore): "Thanks for the link! :) It wasn't anything new but I loved the summary of all the strategies, good to have handy! Thanks :) \n"

User (fantasticfore): "I saw a post yesterday about someone using gas gift cards to reap some benefits and budget. I was wondering if anyone has done the same for helping control their spending habits while keeping on budget. I understand it can be trivial but I also see some merit. " Self: "Are you talking about store specific gift cards or generic "visa" type gift cards that can be used anywhere?\n\nIf it's store specific, then you're limiting yourself to spending x amount at specific stores. And potentially not taking advantage of the best possible prices available at other stores. I see that as being problematic.\n\nIf they're generic, well... I guess that's sort of a variation of the envelope system.. which has worked well for many people.\n\nJust make sure the cards don't charge fees. Gift cards are a massive business because most people either A) don't use them, or B) don't realize that some have fees and while they're not using them, those fees are being deducted and lowering the balance.\n\n\nI'd suggest reading up on the envelope system. The gist is that you literally chunk out your budgeted money rather than just doing it theoretically in a ledger. The most straightforward approach is its namesake. Get an envelope and write "Groceries" on it and put your grocery budget in it. Get another and write "Bills" on it and put your budget in it. "Gas", "Clothes", etc.\n\nA variation of that is to use a bank that allows you to have mutliple savings or checking accounts. My credit union let's me create additional accounts directly through their website. And I can nickname them. So I could have one that is "groceriers", "Gas", "vacation", etc. And then instead of literally putting my budgeted funds into an envelope, I could put the funds into those accounts. This is of course safer because you're not keeping cash around. On the other hand, it's a step towards the more theoretical, but the funds really are in those specific accounts and it's really no more or less easy to move money from one savings account to another than it is to move money from one envelope to another.\n\ni don't use this system personally, but that's the gist of it and it has worked well for many people." User (fantasticfore): "Thanks for all of this. Yes I was just looking at prepaid visas through banks or budgeting cash by gift cards. I'll look more into the envelope system, another redditor suggested as well. I wish my bank had the subaccounts for each section :( "

User (fantasticfore): "I saw a post yesterday about someone using gas gift cards to reap some benefits and budget. I was wondering if anyone has done the same for helping control their spending habits while keeping on budget. I understand it can be trivial but I also see some merit. " Self: "And lose just about all forms of protections even thought CFPB is supposed to manage it? On top of that, it's almost impossible to track the spending.\n\nYou are better off with cash.\n" User (fantasticfore): "Why is it hard to track the spending if it's used like cash? Can you elaborate. I understand the CFPB bit. " Self: "Let's say you have $100 GC for your supermarket. You shopped at the beginning of the week, spent $67.34. Now you have to remember you have $32.66 left. You go shopping again, you have to make sure what you buy is under the amount, but you have to account for tax. Or you bring another supermarket GC and hope the register let you use two of them. Easy enough, now imagine you got 5 places to keep track off. Then you have to make sure you bring the right cards. \n\nGas card is easy because gas pump automatically stops when you run out of money. It has increments of $0.01. You can leave the card in your card.\n\nIf you use Visa gift card, you face the same problem, just now you have even more difficult to track. " User (fantasticfore): "Ah I see! Yes that makes sense. The way I was imaging if I had to use this system was that I would buy as an example, $100 grocery store gift card for the month. So I know I can only spend $100 for this month. If I had to spend more, it would come out of another source like a credit card or cash, so lets say I had $10 left on the GC but spent $20. I knew I was overbudget so I take $10 out of my cash or use it on credit. My store allows multiple form of payments and as many cards as you like. Actually if anything, most stores I been at in general do that. That's why I was a bit confused when you said that. However keeping track of the balances can be tricky as you outlined. Thanks for clarifying. "

User (pfq9): "In 2015 I was relocated by my company (a very large Fortune 50) who payed for all of my moving expenses that totaled just over $11,000. I signed a relocation reimbursement agreement stipulating that if I were to leave the company within a year of relocation that I would agree to pay back the relocation money. I'm not disputing this fact at all. I was offed a game changing job in a new city at month 11 of 12 and had to take it. It was the right move as it was a six figure job and nearly doubled my salary just a few years out of college and put me on track to a career with excellent earnings potential. Fast forward to last week - I received a call from a collections agency collecting the debt. The long and short is that I do not have $11,000 to pay. I seriously doubt I would qualify for a $11,000 personal loan with a bank and am not sure what, if any, options I have. The past year I've been taking steps to build credit and I'm at approximately 760 so I do not want this to impact my credit. I asked the collections agency if there was a settlement amount and there is not. Does anyone have advice on how I can handle this situation? I've followed up with the originating company and haven't gotten any responses on how we can resolve it. Should I get a lawyer? I could probably manage *maybe* half of the debt but there aren't any payment options with the collections agency either. " Self: "You may find these links helpful:\n\n- [What's the best way to pay down my debt?](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/debt#wiki_what.27s_the_best_way_to_pay_down_my_debt.3F)\n- [Dealing with collections](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/collections)\n- [Credit Repair](http://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/credit_building#wiki_i_have_bad_credit.2C_and_i_am_looking_to_repair_it.)\n\n*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/personalfinance) if you have any questions or concerns.*"

User (pfq9): "In 2015 I was relocated by my company (a very large Fortune 50) who payed for all of my moving expenses that totaled just over $11,000. I signed a relocation reimbursement agreement stipulating that if I were to leave the company within a year of relocation that I would agree to pay back the relocation money. I'm not disputing this fact at all. I was offed a game changing job in a new city at month 11 of 12 and had to take it. It was the right move as it was a six figure job and nearly doubled my salary just a few years out of college and put me on track to a career with excellent earnings potential. Fast forward to last week - I received a call from a collections agency collecting the debt. The long and short is that I do not have $11,000 to pay. I seriously doubt I would qualify for a $11,000 personal loan with a bank and am not sure what, if any, options I have. The past year I've been taking steps to build credit and I'm at approximately 760 so I do not want this to impact my credit. I asked the collections agency if there was a settlement amount and there is not. Does anyone have advice on how I can handle this situation? I've followed up with the originating company and haven't gotten any responses on how we can resolve it. Should I get a lawyer? I could probably manage *maybe* half of the debt but there aren't any payment options with the collections agency either. " Self: "If it has gone to a collection agency that means your old company most likely tried contacting you and you ignored them. Now that its at a collection agency you must deal with them and not the old company. \nYou say you doubt you qualify for a personal loan. Well go actually apply and see what happens. Otherwise this will affect your credit score. A lawyer won't help. You owe this money. "

User (pfq9): "In 2015 I was relocated by my company (a very large Fortune 50) who payed for all of my moving expenses that totaled just over $11,000. I signed a relocation reimbursement agreement stipulating that if I were to leave the company within a year of relocation that I would agree to pay back the relocation money. I'm not disputing this fact at all. I was offed a game changing job in a new city at month 11 of 12 and had to take it. It was the right move as it was a six figure job and nearly doubled my salary just a few years out of college and put me on track to a career with excellent earnings potential. Fast forward to last week - I received a call from a collections agency collecting the debt. The long and short is that I do not have $11,000 to pay. I seriously doubt I would qualify for a $11,000 personal loan with a bank and am not sure what, if any, options I have. The past year I've been taking steps to build credit and I'm at approximately 760 so I do not want this to impact my credit. I asked the collections agency if there was a settlement amount and there is not. Does anyone have advice on how I can handle this situation? I've followed up with the originating company and haven't gotten any responses on how we can resolve it. Should I get a lawyer? I could probably manage *maybe* half of the debt but there aren't any payment options with the collections agency either. " Self: "You have a 760 credit score and a six figure job. You'll get any loan you ask for (provided this is the only ding in your credit report). "

User (pfq9): "In 2015 I was relocated by my company (a very large Fortune 50) who payed for all of my moving expenses that totaled just over $11,000. I signed a relocation reimbursement agreement stipulating that if I were to leave the company within a year of relocation that I would agree to pay back the relocation money. I'm not disputing this fact at all. I was offed a game changing job in a new city at month 11 of 12 and had to take it. It was the right move as it was a six figure job and nearly doubled my salary just a few years out of college and put me on track to a career with excellent earnings potential. Fast forward to last week - I received a call from a collections agency collecting the debt. The long and short is that I do not have $11,000 to pay. I seriously doubt I would qualify for a $11,000 personal loan with a bank and am not sure what, if any, options I have. The past year I've been taking steps to build credit and I'm at approximately 760 so I do not want this to impact my credit. I asked the collections agency if there was a settlement amount and there is not. Does anyone have advice on how I can handle this situation? I've followed up with the originating company and haven't gotten any responses on how we can resolve it. Should I get a lawyer? I could probably manage *maybe* half of the debt but there aren't any payment options with the collections agency either. " Self: "This is a tricky one but you may be able to pull this off.\n\nWhat you absolutely need to do is get that $11,000 saved up. Once you do, try mailing your original company the check with a letter stating it's for the relocation reimbursement. HR debts are usually assigned, not sold. They may be able to just pull the debt back and all will be forgiven.\n\nIn the mean time, ask for verification of the debt from the collection agency. That should buy you some time. " User (pfq9): "Not sure I understand? Can you clarify? " Self: "I'd suggest reading a bit of the [PF Wiki](https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/collections)\n\nA debt verification letter stops them from filing a lawsuit or trying to collect until they have sent you written verification of the debt."

User (pfq9): "In 2015 I was relocated by my company (a very large Fortune 50) who payed for all of my moving expenses that totaled just over $11,000. I signed a relocation reimbursement agreement stipulating that if I were to leave the company within a year of relocation that I would agree to pay back the relocation money. I'm not disputing this fact at all. I was offed a game changing job in a new city at month 11 of 12 and had to take it. It was the right move as it was a six figure job and nearly doubled my salary just a few years out of college and put me on track to a career with excellent earnings potential. Fast forward to last week - I received a call from a collections agency collecting the debt. The long and short is that I do not have $11,000 to pay. I seriously doubt I would qualify for a $11,000 personal loan with a bank and am not sure what, if any, options I have. The past year I've been taking steps to build credit and I'm at approximately 760 so I do not want this to impact my credit. I asked the collections agency if there was a settlement amount and there is not. Does anyone have advice on how I can handle this situation? I've followed up with the originating company and haven't gotten any responses on how we can resolve it. Should I get a lawyer? I could probably manage *maybe* half of the debt but there aren't any payment options with the collections agency either. " Self: "> I was offed a game changing job in a new city at month 11 of 12 and had to take it. It was the right move as it was a six figure job and nearly doubled my salary just a few years out of college and put me on track to a career with excellent earnings potential.\n\nWhile its a little late , why did you leave at month 11 ? Whyfor did you not ask your new employer to wait a month ? A month is nothing when it comes to an actual career position as they want YOU , not just a body to fill a spot. \n\n>I seriously doubt I would qualify for a $11,000 personal loan with a bank and am not sure what, if any, options I have. The past year I've been taking steps to build credit and I'm at approximately 760 so I do not want this to impact my credit.\n\nAt 760 , you can most assuredly find someone willing to lend you 11 grand unsecured. May not be the best rate , but someone would be willing to do it. "

User (pfq9): "In 2015 I was relocated by my company (a very large Fortune 50) who payed for all of my moving expenses that totaled just over $11,000. I signed a relocation reimbursement agreement stipulating that if I were to leave the company within a year of relocation that I would agree to pay back the relocation money. I'm not disputing this fact at all. I was offed a game changing job in a new city at month 11 of 12 and had to take it. It was the right move as it was a six figure job and nearly doubled my salary just a few years out of college and put me on track to a career with excellent earnings potential. Fast forward to last week - I received a call from a collections agency collecting the debt. The long and short is that I do not have $11,000 to pay. I seriously doubt I would qualify for a $11,000 personal loan with a bank and am not sure what, if any, options I have. The past year I've been taking steps to build credit and I'm at approximately 760 so I do not want this to impact my credit. I asked the collections agency if there was a settlement amount and there is not. Does anyone have advice on how I can handle this situation? I've followed up with the originating company and haven't gotten any responses on how we can resolve it. Should I get a lawyer? I could probably manage *maybe* half of the debt but there aren't any payment options with the collections agency either. " Self: "My advice is to use that fancy new six figure salary to pay back the debt you owe. Did you think the first company was just going to forget about it?"

User (ProfPcrazy): "I'm wondering if it would be a good idea to set up an appointment with a financial advisor. My wife and I both have credit card debt as well as student loans. We have a one year old son and while we currently rent, we would like to eventually purchase a home. Both of us have limited knowledge about how to best manage our finances and I was thinking a financial advisor may help us get on the right track. Anyone have any experience using a financial advisor? Is it worth it? What would it typically cost? Any help would be greatly appreciated!" Self: "pay your credit card debt and never incur it again; there is no other advice until that is done"

User (ProfPcrazy): "I'm wondering if it would be a good idea to set up an appointment with a financial advisor. My wife and I both have credit card debt as well as student loans. We have a one year old son and while we currently rent, we would like to eventually purchase a home. Both of us have limited knowledge about how to best manage our finances and I was thinking a financial advisor may help us get on the right track. Anyone have any experience using a financial advisor? Is it worth it? What would it typically cost? Any help would be greatly appreciated!" Self: "Track your spending, use that to make a budget. Stick to the budget, paying off your credit cards as much as is reasonable. Once that's done, you can start saving for a house. Look into consolidating your student loans under a lower rate. That's pretty much all there is to it until you have a bunch of money in savings and you're thinking about investing. "

User (AntDPT): "My mom passed away earlier this year and left my dad in debt. He lives off of social security. She had a loan with a fairly high interest rate that she used part of their property as collateral. He owes a little over $6000 with a monthly payment of near $500. He is trying to get another loan to get a lower interest rate so he is able to afford the payment. I basically have to do it. The property used in the loan will be mine one day. Can anyone tell me about how big of a hit I am going to take on my credit score from this? Thanks!" Self: "If you have good credit, then none, in fact, your credit score will probably go up.\n\nIf you have shit credit, then you probably won't qualify for the loan or get bad interest rate." User (AntDPT): "My credit is average. My scores are in the low 700's with all 3 bureaus last time I checked. " Self: "Assuming you can pay the loan, you'll be ok. You'll see an initial dip, then it'll go back up."

User (AntDPT): "My mom passed away earlier this year and left my dad in debt. He lives off of social security. She had a loan with a fairly high interest rate that she used part of their property as collateral. He owes a little over $6000 with a monthly payment of near $500. He is trying to get another loan to get a lower interest rate so he is able to afford the payment. I basically have to do it. The property used in the loan will be mine one day. Can anyone tell me about how big of a hit I am going to take on my credit score from this? Thanks!" Self: "It's 12 payments. Why don't you just pay them and your dad can "owe" you the 6k."

User (AntDPT): "My mom passed away earlier this year and left my dad in debt. He lives off of social security. She had a loan with a fairly high interest rate that she used part of their property as collateral. He owes a little over $6000 with a monthly payment of near $500. He is trying to get another loan to get a lower interest rate so he is able to afford the payment. I basically have to do it. The property used in the loan will be mine one day. Can anyone tell me about how big of a hit I am going to take on my credit score from this? Thanks!" Self: "Why doesn't he just sell the property?" User (AntDPT): "That is where he lives. " Self: "> That is where he lives. \n\nSell the property and find a smaller/more affordable place with the proceeds of the sale. \n\nOr find a place to rent that is affordable on the social security he collects."

User (shirogohan): "Income\n1. 110k household salary p/y. Very good potential for 150k within 2 years.\n2. 18k savings (some for down payment).\n\nWe can afford the mortgage payment and all the bills on my salary alone and use my wife's salary as savings. We can save 2k per month.\n\nIf we wait 6 months we'd have 30k in savings, and in 12 months 42k in savings. Those would allow for a much better down payment and thus lower monthly payment and possibly no PMI. However, we lose 6 to 12 months of equity on rent money that is lost forever.\n\nIf we buy now, the monthly payment is higher and there is PMI but we can use part of the savings to pay more on the mortgage each month, eliminate PMI sooner, and build equity from now. Plus, it would be our home, no more living in rentals. On top of that, the wife's commute is 50 minutes each way per day, which would be cut to 30 minutes if we buy a house. 20 extra minutes each way is very significant, although it doesn't look that way.\n\nSo what do you guys think?\n\n" Self: "In your situation I don't think it makes sense to pay PMI. You'd technically be getting equity sooner but are paying for the ability to do so. If you just wait and make a larger down payment, you'll likely end up with more equity upon your purchase than you would have with extra payments + PMI anyway. You'd basically be paying for the right to build equity a year early, which I don't think makes sense. I can understand your wanting to quit paying rent and start building equity, but I think you would be better off waiting and not paying for the right to do so. 6-12 months will fly by. This is all my humble opinion and someone else may provide better insight than I. Best of luck to you." User (shirogohan): "Thank you for the advice. We are definitely considering that. I do have to stress the importance of my wife's commute. She's only been at the job for 3 months and is super stressed all the time. She can handle 30 minutes, but 50 is killing her and affecting the marriage, no joke. Also, PMI is $100. In 3 years that's only $3,600. If we use part of our savings for the next 3 years to pay more on the house each month, we can cancel PMI and only be down $3,600 over 3 years. It's the same savings we'd be using for down payment in a year anyway, so we just get the house sooner and the $3,600 in PMI are more than offset by the $6,000+ we would lose in rent staying an extra 6 months to 1 year." Self: "If there are more non financial factors influencing this decision, which only you can truly evaluate, then I don't think buying now is a crazy idea. Its definitely doable, I just think it makes more sense to wait from a pure financial standpoint. If you wait, you'll have more equity and lower down payments. You can still payoff the mortgage early and gain even more equity than you could by putting less down and making extra payments. In my opinion, buying now so you don't have to rent for another year would be like stepping over a dollar to pick up a quarter.\n\nJust make sure you're being brutally honest to yourself when evaluating each option. In situations like this, its easy to look at a situation though rose colored glasses. Make sure you're not only seeing things how you want to see them. "

User (shirogohan): "Income\n1. 110k household salary p/y. Very good potential for 150k within 2 years.\n2. 18k savings (some for down payment).\n\nWe can afford the mortgage payment and all the bills on my salary alone and use my wife's salary as savings. We can save 2k per month.\n\nIf we wait 6 months we'd have 30k in savings, and in 12 months 42k in savings. Those would allow for a much better down payment and thus lower monthly payment and possibly no PMI. However, we lose 6 to 12 months of equity on rent money that is lost forever.\n\nIf we buy now, the monthly payment is higher and there is PMI but we can use part of the savings to pay more on the mortgage each month, eliminate PMI sooner, and build equity from now. Plus, it would be our home, no more living in rentals. On top of that, the wife's commute is 50 minutes each way per day, which would be cut to 30 minutes if we buy a house. 20 extra minutes each way is very significant, although it doesn't look that way.\n\nSo what do you guys think?\n\n" Self: "The largest factor here is where? What has happened to housing prices in the last 6 months? Where are your interest rates today? Does the math say your savings will outpace the rising cost of housing, or are uncertain future interest rates enough to make your decision for you. \n\n That being said if I could save myself 10-15 min of traffic every day I personally would jump on it." User (shirogohan): "Rent at our place went from 740 to 1000 in 3 years. Mortgage would be 1100. By now it just makes sense to buy and gain equity. Housing prices in the area are slowly but surely going up. Our savings are the best they've been in our lives, and are looking steady, knock on wood. And I am truly afraid of interest rates being 5%+ in one year. Plus, the wife would save 40 minutes in total commute each day. That's more than 13 hours each month!" mlempic2 (mlempic2): "I would ignore the equity factor altogether. If I could knock 40 minutes off my commute everyday I'd gladly pay a little PMI"