 
# Contents

  1.  How to use
  2.  Introduction to Mexico City
  3.  Central Mexico City
  4.  Bosque de Chapultepec
  5.  South of the centre
  6.  North of the centre
  7.  Arrival and departure
  8.  Getting around
  9.  Information and tours
  10.  Accommodation
  11.  Eating
  12.  Drinking and nightlife
  13.  Entertainment
  14.  Shopping and markets
  15.  Sport
  16.  Directory
  17.  Mexico Basics
  18.  Maps
  19.  Small print

  1.  How to Use
  2.  Table of Contents
  3.  Cover
  4.  Start of Content

# HOW TO USE THIS ROUGH GUIDES SNAPSHOT

This **Rough Guides Snapshot** is one of a new generation of informative and easy-to-use travel-guide ebooks that guarantees you make the most of your visit.  An essential tool for pre-trip planning, it also makes a great travel companion when you're on the road. 

Introduction to Mexico City is a good place to start, with an overview of the city's big attractions and a list of highlights.  From the **table of contents** , you can click straight to the main sections of the guide, which includes features on all the major sights.  You'll find practical information on the country as a whole, including details on flights, in Mexico Basics.  Shorter **contents** lists appear at the start of every section in the guide to make chapter navigation quick and easy.  You can jump back to these by tapping the links that sit with an arrow icon. 

Detailed area **maps** can be found in the guide and in the dedicated map section, which also includes a full country map, accessible from the table of contents.  Depending on your hardware, you can double-tap on the maps to see larger-scale versions, or select different scales.  There are also thumbnails below more detailed maps – in these cases, you can opt to "zoom left/top" or "zoom right/bottom" or view the full map.  The screen-lock function on your device is recommended when viewing enlarged maps.  Make sure you have the latest software updates, too. 

Throughout the guide, we've flagged up our favourite places \- a perfectly sited hotel, an atmospheric café, a special restaurant - with  .  You can select your own favourites and create a personalized itinerary by **bookmarking** the sights, venues and activities that are of interest, giving you the quickest possible access to everything you'll need for your time away. 

# INTRODUCTION TO MEXICO CITY

Highlights

Brief history

One of the world's mega-cities, with over 25 million people occupying a shallow mountain bowl at over 2400m above sea level, Mexico City has to be seen to be believed.  Spreading out beyond the federal district (Distrito Federal) which is supposed to contain it, the city has a vibe which is at once both edgy and yet laid-back and cosmopolitan at the same time.  Despite its terrible pollution, the capital is a fun place to be, and nowhere near as intimidating as you might expect.  It's also very easy to find your way around, with an efficient metro system, and generally easy-to-navigate grid of streets. 

On arrival you may brace yourself for the city's hard edge, but be prepared to be lulled by it.  Mexico's capital may initially seem to lack the colour and charm of some of the country's smaller towns, but it can be pretty too, and there's certainly no denying its dynamism.  The city centre still retains its colonial feel, its streets bustling with the comings and goings of daily commerce.  The fact that different products are sold in specific areas – stationery here, electrical fittings there – sometimes makes it seem like a giant market.  To the west, steel and glass take over from brick and stone as tradition gives way to modernity, but in the suburbs, in laid-back _barrios_ like San Ángel and Coyoacán, there's as much charm as in any small Mexican town, and a surprising number of little squares overlooked by old churches amid leafy residential backstreets.  For many Mexicans, in fact, the city's most important site is the **Basilica de Guadalupe** , sited in the suburbs to the north of town.  To the southwest, meanwhile, is Chapultepec Park and some of the biggest attractions you'll want to see, notably the outstanding **Museo Nacional de Antropología**.  Even in the centre, around the garden known as the **Alameda** in particular, there's music, art ( **Diego Rivera** and **Frida Kahlo** , as well as their contemporaries) and colour enough to seduce you, and the hustle and bustle only seem to amplify it.  While the outer edges of the city are largely shantytowns, built piecemeal by migrants from elsewhere in the country, hidden among them are a number of gems, such as the **pyramids** of Tenayuca, Santa Cecilia Acatitlán and Cuicuilco, and the canals of **Xochimilco**. 

As much the heart of the modern capital as it was of the Aztec civilization that once thrived here, the **Zócalo** , or main square, is the place to get your bearings.  Immediately to its west, in the streets between the Zócalo and the Alameda, is the main **commercial area**.  Beyond that, the city streches northward and southward, its urban area now extending beyond the political boundaries of the **Distrito Federal** which is supposed to contain it (in the same way that the DC is supposed to contain the city of Washington).  It's crisscrossed by a series of axes ( _ejes_ in Spanish), of which the north–south _eje central_ (central axis, aka Lázaro Cárdenas) is plied by a very useful trolleybus linking the northern and southern bus terminals.  Roughly parallel with it, 1km or so over to the west, **Avenida de los Insurgentes** also bisects the city more or less from north to south, and is said to be the longest continuous city street in the world, linking the centre to **San Ángel** and **Coyoacán** , and the **University City** , all at the southern end of town.  Even more important from a tourist perspective is **Paseo de la Reforma** , which runs diagonally across the city, northeast to southwest, connecting the centre with **Chapultepec Park**. 

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< Back to Introduction to Mexico City

TRAJINERAS BOATS, XOCHIMILCO GARDENS

## Highlights

1 The Zócalo Mexico City's huge central square, surrounded by the cathedral, Aztec ruins and the Palacio Nacional. 

2 Palacio de Bellas Artes Not only an architectural masterpiece in its own right, with a smashing Art Deco interior, but also home to some of the city's most impressive murals. 

3 Museo Mural Diego Rivera Rivera's most Mexican mural, depicting just about everybody from Mexican history, all out on a Sunday afternoon stroll in the Alameda. 

4 Museo Nacional de Antropología The country's finest museum, with displays on all of Mexico's major pre-Columbian cultures. 

5 Coyoacán Visit the houses where Frida Kahlo and León Trotsky lived, spend an evening checking out the local bars, then come back for the colourful Sunday market. 

6 Museo Dolores Olmedo Patiño A huge collection of works by Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. 

7 Xochimilco Ride the ancient waterways on flower-festooned boats. 

8 Plaza Garibaldi The frenetic site of massed mariachi bands. 

9 La Merced Explore Mexico City's largest and most vibrant market. 

Highlights are marked on the Mexico City and Central Mexico City maps. 

< Back to Introduction to Mexico City

# FINDING YOUR STREET

Many **street names** are repeated over and over in different parts of Mexico City – there must be dozens of thoroughfares called Morelos, Juárez or Hidalgo, and a good score of 5 de Mayos.  If you're taking a cab, or looking at a map, be clear which area you are talking about – it's fairly obvious in the centre, but searching out an address in the suburbs can lead to a series of false starts unless you know the name of the official **colonia** , or urban district (abbreviated "Col" in addresses outside the centre), that you're looking for.  If you're going to be spending much time in the city, and are likely to be visiting places out of the centre, consider investing in Guia Roji's _Ciudad de México_ street atlas, which is available at bookshops and street stalls all over town, and covers every street of the city and its suburbs, with an index. 

### Brief history

The **Aztecs** (or, to use their own name, the Mexica), an ambitious and flourishing culture, founded their capital of **Tenochtitlán** in 1325 on an island in the middle of a lake, at a spot where their god Huitzilopochtli told them they would find an eagle devouring a snake atop a nopal cactus.  It was from here that their empire grew to cover the whole of central Mexico.  This empire was already firmly established when **Hernán Cortés** and his troops arrived in November 1519.  The Aztec emperor, **Moctezuma II** (Montezuma), a broodingly religious man, apparently believed Cortés to be a reincarnation of the pale-skinned, bearded god Quetzalcoatl.  Accordingly, he admitted him to the city – fearfully, but with a show of ceremonious welcome.  The Spanish repaid this hospitality by taking Moctezuma prisoner.  They then attacked the great Aztec temples, killing priests and placing Christian chapels alongside their altars. 

Growing unrest in the city at the emperor's passivity, and at the rapacious behaviour of his guests, led to **rebellion**.  In June 1520, Moctezuma was killed – according to the Spanish, stoned to death by his own people while trying to quell a riot – and the Spaniards fled the city with heavy losses on what they called **Noche Triste** (Sad Night).  Cortés and his surviving followers escaped to Tlaxcala to regroup.  In May 1521, with numbers swelled by indigenous allies, and ships built in secret to attack by water, the Spaniards laid **siege** to Tenochtitlán, landing on the south of the island and fighting their way north through the city, street by bloody street.  The Aztec emperor **Cuauhtémoc** was finally captured on August 13, 1521, and subsequently tortured to try to find out where his supposed treasure was hidden.  He was finally executed four years later in Honduras. 

# TENOCHTITLÁN – THE CITY THAT WALKED ON WATER

And when we saw all those cities and villages built in the water, and other great towns on dry land, and that straight and level causeway leading to Mexico, we were astounded.  These great towns and cities and buildings rising from the water, all made of stone, seemed like an enchanted vision from the tales of Amadis.  Indeed, some of our soldiers asked whether it was not all a dream. 

Bernal Díaz, _The Conquest of New Spain_

The Aztec capital of **Tenochtitlán** was built on an island in the middle of a lake traversed by great causeways, a beautiful, strictly regulated, stone-built city of three hundred thousand residents.  The Aztecs had arrived at the lake around 1325, after years of wandering and living off what they could scavenge or pillage from settled communities.  According to legend, their patron god Huitzilopochtli had ordered them to build a city where they found an eagle perched on a nopal cactus, and devouring a snake.  It is this legend that is the basis of the nopal, eagle and snake motif that forms the centrepiece of the modern Mexican flag. 

The lake proved an ideal site: well stocked with fish, it was also fertile, once the Aztecs had constructed **chinampas** , or floating gardens of reeds.  These enabled them to grow crops on the lake, as a result of which they were self-sufficient in food.  The lake also made the city virtually impregnable: the **causeways** , when they were completed, could be flooded and the bridges raised to thwart attacks (or escape, as the Spanish found on the Noche Triste). 

The island city eventually grew to cover an area of some thirteen square kilometres, much of it reclaimed from the lake, and from this base the Aztecs were able to begin their programme of **expansion** : initially dominating the valley by a series of strategic alliances, war and treachery, and finally, in a period of less than a hundred years before the brutal Spanish Conquest of 1521, establishing an empire that demanded tribute from, and traded with, the most distant parts of the country.  Yet almost nothing of this amazing city survived the Conquest. " All that I saw then," Bernal Díaz later wrote of his account of Tenochtitlán, "is overthrown and destroyed; nothing is left standing."  It is only relatively recently – particularly during construction of the Metro, and with the 1978 discovery of remains of the Templo Mayor beneath the colonial Zócalo – that a few remains of Tenochtitlán have been brought to light. 

The city's defeat, moreover, is still a harsh memory: Cortés himself is hardly revered, but the natives who assisted him, in particular La Malinche, the Veracruz woman who acted as Cortés' interpreter, are non-people.  Tributes to Moctezuma are rare, though **Cuauhtémoc** , his successor who led the fierce resistance, is commemorated everywhere; Malinche is represented, acidly, in some of Diego Rivera's more outspoken murals. 

#### Spanish and post-colonial Mexico City

The Spanish systematically smashed every visible aspect of Aztec culture, as often as not using the very stones of the old city to construct the new.  The **new city** developed slowly in its early years.  It spread far wider, however, as the lake was drained, filled and built over.  Pestilent from the earliest days, the inadequately drained waters harboured fevers, and the native population was constantly swept by epidemics of European diseases.  Many of the buildings, too, simply began to sink into the soft lake bed, a process probably accelerated by regular earthquakes. 

By the third quarter of the nineteenth century, the city comprised little more than the area around the Zócalo and Alameda.  Chapultepec Castle, Coyoacán, San Ángel and the Basilica of Guadalupe were still surrounded by fields and the last of the basin's former lakes.  From late 1870 through to 1911, however, the dictator Porfirio Díaz presided over an unprecedented, and self-aggrandizing, **building programme** that saw the installation of trams, the expansion of public transport and the draining of some of the last sections of the Lago de Texcoco, which had previously hemmed the city in.  These all fuelled further growth, and by the outbreak of the Revolution in 1910, Mexico City's residents numbered over four hundred thousand, regaining for the first time in four centuries the population level it had held before the Conquest. 

#### The modern city

During the Revolution, thousands fled to rapidly industrializing Mexico City in search of jobs and a better life.  Between 1910 and the mid-1940s the city's population quadrupled and the cracks in the infrastructure quickly became gaping holes.  Houses couldn't be built quickly enough to cope with the seven-percent annual growth, and many people couldn't afford them anyway, so **shantytowns** of scrap metal and cardboard sprang up.  Most neighbourhoods had little or no water supply and sanitation was an afterthought.  Gradually, civic leaders tried to address the lot of citizens by improving the services and housing in shantytowns, but even as they worked, a new ring of slums mushroomed just a little further out.  This expansion badly strained the transport system, necessitating the construction of a **Metro** system in the late 1960s. 

Urban growth continues today: some statisticians estimate that there are a thousand new arrivals each day, mainly from high-unemployment rural areas, and the urban area now extends beyond the limits of the Distrito Federal and into the surrounding states.  Despite the spread, Mexico City remains one of the world's most densely and heavily populated cities, with an unenviable list of major social and physical problems, including an extreme vulnerability to earthquakes – the last big one, in 1985, killed over nine thousand people, made one hundred thousand homeless and left many of the city's buildings decidedly skewed. 

#

For details on getting to Mexico City and travelling across the rest of Mexico, as well as information on entry requirements and currency, plus public holidays, festivals and outdoor activities, turn to the Mexico Basics section. 

< Back to Introduction to Mexico City

# CENTRAL MEXICO CITY

The Zócalo

North of the Zócalo

East of the Zócalo: along Calle Moneda

South of the Zócalo

West to the Alameda

The Alameda and beyond

Paseo de la Reforma and around

Zona Rosa

Roma and Condesa

Polanco

The heart of Mexico City is the **Zócalo** , built by the Spanish right over the devastated ceremonial centre of the Aztec city of Tenochtitlán.  Extraordinary uncovered ruins – chief of which is the **Templo Mayor** – provide the Zócalo's most compelling attraction, but there's also a wealth of great colonial buildings, among them the huge **cathedral** and the **Palacio Nacional** with its striking **Diego Rivera murals**.  You could easily spend a couple of days in the tightly packed blocks hereabouts, investigating their dense concentration of museums and galleries, especially notable for works by Rivera and his "Big Three" companions, David Siqueiros and José Clemente Orozco. 

West of the Zócalo the _centro histórico_ stretches through the main commercial district past the **Museo Nacional de Arte** to the sky-scraping **Torre Latinoamericana** and the **Palacio de Bellas Artes** with its gorgeous Art Deco interior.  Both overlook the formal parkland of the **Alameda** , next to which you'll find a number of museums, including **Museo de Tequila y Mezcal** , which tells the story of Mexico's best-known liquors, and the **Museo Mural Diego Rivera** , with the artist's famed _Sueño de una Tarde Dominical en la Alameda_.  Further west, the **Monumento a la Revolución** heralds the more upmarket central suburbs, chiefly the **Zona Rosa** , long known as the spot for plush shops and restaurants, though that title has largely been usurped by swanky **Polanco** and hipper **Condesa**. 

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# MÉXICO, MEXICO CITY AND EL DF

For clarity, we've referred to Mexico's capital as **Mexico City** throughout this Guide, though Mexicans frequently refer to it simply as **México** , in the same way that Americans refer to New York City as New York.  It's a source of infinite confusion to visitors, but the country took its name from the city, so "México" can mean either, and in conversation it most often means the latter.  The capital is also referred to as **El DF** ("El Day Effay"), short for "Distrito Federal".  The title **Ciudad de México** is used much less commonly, usually in an official context.  The country as a whole is generally called 'La República', while any area that lies outside Mexico City and Mexico State that envelops it can be referred to as "La Provincia" (The Province), although this is not a term which is appreciated by those who live there. 

## The Zócalo

Catedral Metropolitana

Templo Mayor

Palacio Nacional

Gran Hotel Ciudad de México

Nacional Monte de Piedad

Metro Zócalo

The vast paved open space of the **Zócalo** – properly known as the Plaza de la Constitución – was once the heart of **Aztec Tenochtitlán** , and is today one of the largest city squares in the world after Beijing's Tiananmen Square and Moscow's Red Square.  The city's political and religious centre, it takes its name from part of a monument to Independence that was planned in the 1840s for the square by General Santa Anna.  Like most of his other plans, this went astray, and only the statue's base (now gone) was ever erected: _el zócalo_ literally means "the plinth".  By extension, every other town square in Mexico has adopted the same name.  It's constantly animated, with pre-Hispanic revivalist groups dancing and pounding drums throughout the day and street stalls and buskers in the evening.  Stages are set up here for major national holidays, and, of course, this is the place to hold demonstrations.  Over one hundred thousand people massed here in March 2001 to support the Zapatistas after their march from Chiapas in support of indigenous people's rights; in July 2006 the square proved too small to contain the millions of demonstrators who gathered to challenge the result of that year's presidential election, a contest widely believed – especially in the left-leaning DF – to have been fixed.  Spreading out from the Zócalo, the crowds reached as far as Paseo de la Reforma. 

Though you're not guaranteed to see any protests, among the Zócalo's more certain entertainments is the ceremonial **lowering of the national flag** from its giant pole in the centre of the plaza each evening at sundown (typically 6pm).  A troop of presidential guards march out from the palace, strike the enormous flag and perform a complex routine, at the end of which the flag is left, neatly folded, in the hands of one of their number.  With far less pomp, the flag is quietly raised again around half an hour later.  You get a great view of this, and of everything else happening in the Zócalo, from the rooftop terrace restaurants in the _Hotel Majestic_ and _Gran Hotel Ciudad de México_ on the west side of the square. 

Weekends in the Zócalo see a small tourist market on the west side of the cathedral, offering the same knick-knacks you'll see at most tourist sites around the country.  Witch doctors also patrol the area offering pre-Hispanic cleansing rituals.  During the week tradesmen offering freelance work occupy this bit of pavement; they don't appreciate having their photos taken. 

# COUGHS AND ROBBERS – SELF-PRESERVATION IN MEXICO CITY

Mexico City comes with an unenviable reputation for overcrowding, grime and crime, and to some extent this is deserved.  Certainly there is **pollution**.  The whole urban area sits in a low mountain bowl that deflects smog-clearing winds away from the city, allowing a thick blanket of haze to build up throughout the day.  Conditions are particularly bad in winter, when there is no rain, and pollution levels (reported daily in the English-language newspaper, _The News_ ,  thenews.com.mx) tend to peak in the early afternoon.  In response, the **Hoy No Circula** ("Don't drive today") law prohibits car use from 5am to 10pm for one day in the working week for vehicles over six years old, the day depending on the car's numberplate.  Nonetheless, those prone to **respiratory problems** may have some difficulty on arrival, due to the city's air quality and altitude. 

The capital is where the Mexican extremes of **wealth** and **poverty** are most apparent, with shiny, valet-parked SUVs vying for space with pavement vendors and beggars.  Such financial disparity fuels **theft** , but just take the same precautions you would in any large city; there is no need to feel particularly paranoid.  Keep your valuables – especially credit or debit cards – in the hotel safe (even cheap hotels often have somewhere secure; muggers who catch you with an ATM card may keep hold of you till they have extracted enough cash with it), don't flash large wads of money around and keep an eye on your camera and other valuables in busy market areas.  At night, avoid the _barrio_ known as **Doctores** (around the Metro station of the same name, so-called because the streets are named after doctors), and the area around Lagunilla market, both centres of the street drug trade, and therefore opportunist crime.  Note that mugging is not the only danger – abduction for ransom is increasingly common too. 

**Taxis** have a bad reputation and, though drivers are mostly helpful and courteous, there are reports of people being robbed or abducted (often in stolen taxis).  If possible, get your hotel to call you a cab (more expensive), or call one yourself, for example from one of the firms.  If you do have to hail a cab in the street, always take one whose registration, on both the numberplate and the side of the vehicle, begins with an L (for "libre" – to be hailed while driving around), and which has the driver's identification prominently displayed.  Better still, find a taxi rank and take a _sitio_ taxi that can be traced to that rank (with a number beginning in R, S or T, and again with the driver's ID prominently displayed).  Do not take taxis from the airport or bus terminals other than prepaid ones, and avoid taking those waiting outside tourist spots. 

### Catedral Metropolitana

North side of Zócalo • Daily 8am–8pm (discretion is required during services); guided tours hourly • Free; tours M$20 • Metro Zócalo

Mexico City's cathedral holds the distinction of being the largest church in Latin America.  Like so many of the city's older, weightier structures, it has settled over the years into the soft, wet ground beneath – the tilt is quite plain to see, despite extensive work to stabilize the building.  The first church on this site was constructed only a couple of years after the Conquest, using stones torn from the Temple of Huitzilopochtli, but the present structure was begun in 1573 to provide Mexico City with a cathedral more suited to its wealth and status as the jewel of the Spanish empire.  The towers weren't completed until 1813, though, and the building incorporates a plethora of architectural styles.  Even the frontage demonstrates this: relatively austere at the bottom where work began soon after the Conquest, it flowers into full Baroque as you look up, and is topped by Neoclassical cornices and a clock tower.  If you want to climb the clock tower, join one of the guided tours that start from the information desk to the right as you enter. 

Inside, although the size of the cathedral is striking, the chief impression is that it's a rather gloomy space, with rows of dimly lit side chapels.  It is enlivened mostly by the **Altar de los Reyes** , a vast gilt _reredos_ built of wood between 1718 and 1737.  It's located behind a main altar that features effigies of European kings and queens as well as two early eighteenth-century oil paintings, the _Asunción de la Virgen_ and _Adoración de los Reyes_ by Juan Rodríguez Juárez.  Fans of ornate handiwork will also appreciate the detailed work in gold and wood on the central _coro_ (choir). 

#### Sagrario

Next door to the cathedral • Daily 8am–8pm (no entry wearing caps, shorts, miniskirts or dark glasses) • Free

The **Sagrario** , despite its heavy, grey Baroque facade and squat, bell-topped towers, feels both lighter and richer inside, with exuberant churrigueresque decoration and liberal use of gold paint.  It was originally built as the parish church, and performs most of the day-to-day functions of a local church, such as baptisms and marriages. 

### Templo Mayor

Seminario 8 • Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • M$64; video M$45 •  templomayor.inah.gob.mx • Metro Zócalo

Just off the Zócalo, down beside the cathedral, lies the entrance to the site where the **Templo Mayor** has been excavated.  Although it had been worked out by the beginning of the twentieth century that Tenochtitlán's ceremonial area lay under this part of the city, it was generally believed that the chief temple, or Teocalli, lay directly beneath the cathedral.  Archeological work only began in earnest in 1978 after workmen uncovered a huge stone disc, weighing over eight tonnes, which depicted the fall of **Coyolxauhqui** , goddess of the moon.  The disc's symbolism indicated that it must have lain at the foot of the city's Teocalli, which would have been topped by a double shrine, dedicated to the sun god **Huitzilopochtli** and the rain god **Tlaloc**.  The nineteenth- and twentieth-century buildings on the site were therefore cleared away, and excavation began. 

#### The temple remains

Entering the site, you'll be able to see the bare ruins of the foundations of the great temple and one or two buildings immediately around it.  The excavations are highly confusing since, as was normal practice, a new temple was built over the old at the end of every 52-year calendar cycle (and apparently even more frequently here), resulting in a whole series of temples stacked inside each other like Russian dolls – there are seven here.  Look at the models and maps in the museum first and it all makes more sense. 

Of the seven reconstructions of the temple, layers as far down as the second have been uncovered, though you can only see the top of the structure as the bottom is now well below the water table.  Confusing as it is trying to work out what's what, it's a fascinating site, scattered with odd sculptures, including some great serpents, and traces of its original bright paintwork in red, blue and yellow.  Seeing it here, at the heart of the modern city, brings the ceremonies and sacrifices that took place rather close to home.  It's also worth walking past here in the evening when the **floodlit pyramid ruins** can be seen from the surrounding streets. 

#### Museo del Templo Mayor

The **museum** of the Templo Mayor, entered through the site on the same ticket, helps set the temples in context, with some welcome reconstructions and models of how Tenochtitlán would have looked at its height.  There are some wonderful pieces retrieved from the site, especially the replica **tzompantli** (wall of skulls) as you enter, the eagle in Room 1 with a cavity in its back for the hearts of sacrificial victims, a particularly beautiful _pulque_ god statue and, of course, the huge **Coyolxauhqui stone**, displayed so as to be visible from points throughout the museum.  The museum's design is meant to simulate the temple, so you climb through it to reach two rooms at the top, one devoted to Huitzilopochtli, the other to Tlaloc, in the same way that the temple was originally topped by two shrines, one for each god. 

The best items are towards the top of the museum, including some superb stone masks such as the one from Teotihuacán, black with inset eyes and a huge earring, typical of the objects paid in tribute by subject peoples from all over the country.  On the highest level are two magnificent, full-size terracotta eagle warriors and numerous large stone pieces from the site.  The descent back to the ground level concentrates on everyday life in Aztec times – with some rather mangy stuffed animals to demonstrate the species known to the Aztecs – along with a jumble of later items found while the site was being excavated.  There are some good pieces here: look for the superb turquoise mosaic, little more than a handspan across, but intricately set with tiny pieces forming seven god-like figures; and the two large ceramic sculptures of **Mictlantecihtli** , the god of death, unearthed in 1994 from tunnels excavated below the nearby Casa de las Águilas. 

# COYOLXAUHQUI AND HUITZILOPOCHTLI

 **Coyolxauhqui** was the daughter of Coatlicue, the mother goddess who controlled life and death; on discovering that her mother was miraculously pregnant, Coyolxauhqui vowed to wipe out the dishonour by killing her.  Before she could do so, however, **Huitzilopochtli** sprang fully armed from Coatlicue's womb, and proceeded to decapitate and dismember his sister (who is therefore always portrayed with her head and limbs cut off) and threw her body down a mountain.  He then drove off the four hundred other brothers who had gathered to help her: they scattered to become the stars.  The human sacrifices carried out in the temple – meant to feed Huitzilopochtli, the sun god, with the blood he needed to win his nightly battle against darkness – were in part a re-enactment of this, with the victims being thrown down the steps afterwards. 

### Palacio Nacional

East side of Zócalo, but public entrance from Moneda • Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • Free, but ID required to enter; locker for bags M$20 in coins • Metro Zócalo

The east side of the Zócalo is entirely taken up by the more than 200m-long facade of the **Palacio Nacional**.  The so-called New Palace of Moctezuma stood here and Cortés made it his first residence.  From 1562 the building was the official residence of the Spanish viceroy, and later of presidents of the republic.  The present building, for all its apparent unity, is the result of centuries of agglomeration and rebuilding – the most recent addition was the third storey, in 1927.  It still holds the office of the president, who makes his most important pronouncements from the balcony – especially on September 15, when the **Grito de la Independencia** signals the start of the country's Independence celebrations. 

#### Diego Rivera's murals

The chief attraction in the Palacio Nacional is the series of **Diego Rivera murals** that decorate the stairwell and middle storey of the main courtyard.  Begun in 1929, the murals are classic Rivera, ranking with the best of his work.  The great panorama of Mexican history, _México a Través de los Siglos_ , around the **main staircase** , combines an unbelievable wealth of detail with savage imagery and a masterly use of space.  On the right-hand wall Quetzalcoatl sits in majesty amid the golden age of the Valley of México, surrounded by an idealized vision of life in Teotihuacán, Tula and Tenochtitlán.  The main section depicts the Conquest, oppression, war, Inquisition, invasion, Independence and eventually Revolution.  Almost every major personage and event of Mexican history is here, from the grotesquely twisted features of the conquistadors to the national heroes: balding, white-haired Hidalgo with the banner of Independence; squat, dark Benito Juárez with his Constitution and laws for the reform of the Church; Zapata, with a placard proclaiming his cry of " _Tierra y Libertad_ "; and Pancho Villa, moustachioed and swaggering.  On the left are post-Revolutionary Mexico and the future (as Rivera envisaged it), with Karl Marx pointing the way to adoring workers.  Businessmen stand clustered over their tickertape in front of a somewhat ironic depiction of the metropolis with its skyscrapers and grim industrial wastes.  Rivera's wife, the artist Frida Kahlo, is depicted, too, behind her sister Cristina (with whom Rivera was having an affair at the time) in a red blouse with an open copy of the Communist Manifesto. 

A series of smaller panels was intended to go all the way round the upper (now middle) storey, an over-ambitious and unfinished project.  The uncoloured first panel lists the products that the world owes to Mexico, including maize, beans, chocolate, tobacco, cotton, tomatoes, peanuts, prickly pears and _chicle_ (the source of chewing gum).  The remainder of the completed paintings reach halfway around and mostly depict the idyll of aspects of life before the Conquest – market day, dyeing cloth, hunting scenes and so on.  The last (completed in 1951) shows the arrival of the Spanish, complete with an image of La Malinche (the Maya woman widely perceived to have betrayed native Mexicans by shacking up with Cortés) bearing Cortés' blue-eyed baby – the first Mexican _mestizo_. 

#### Other attractions

Also on the Palacio's middle storey is the chamber used by the Mexican Legislature from 1845 to 1872, when it was presided over by Benito Juárez, who lived in the palace until his death.  The room houses the original copy of the 1857 Constitution, which was drawn up there, but is frequently closed for renovations. 

Before leaving the building, it's worth taking a moment to wander around some of the other **courtyards** (there are fourteen in all), and through the small floral and cactus **gardens**. 

### Gran Hotel Ciudad de México

16 de Septiembre 82 •  granhoteldelaciudaddemexico.com.mx • Metro Zócalo

Located at the southwest corner of the Zócalo, the **Gran Hotel Ciudad de México** is well worth a visit to admire the opulent lobby with its intricate ironwork, cage-lifts and wonderful Tiffany stained-glass dome.  Indeed, it's worth going up to the third and fourth floors for a closer look at the ceiling.  Like the _Majestic_ in the same block, the _Gran Hotel_ has a terrace restaurant with great views over the Zócalo. 

### Nacional Monte de Piedad

Monte de Piedad 1, at corner of the Zócalo and 5 de Mayo • Mon–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat 10am–3pm • Metro Zócalo

On the west side of the Zócalo, arcades shelter a series of shops, almost all of which sell hats or jewellery.  For an unusual shopping experience, though, you can't beat the **Nacional Monte de Piedad** , just to the north.  This huge building, supposedly on the site of the palace in which Cortés and his followers stayed as guests of Moctezuma, is now the National Pawn Shop, an institution founded as far back as 1775.  Much of what is pawned here is jewellery, but there's also a wide variety of fine art and sculptures, and just about anything that will command a reasonable price.  From time to time they hold major auctions to clear the place out, but it's worth coming here just to take in the atmosphere and watch the milling crowds. 

< Back to Central Mexico City

## North of the Zócalo

Plaza Santo Domingo

Museo de la Medicina

SEP

Museo de la Caricatura

ENP (Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso)

Museo de las Constituciones

Plaza de Loreto and around

Just a couple of blocks north of the centre the vast openness of the Zócalo gives way to a much more intimate section of small colonial plazas and mostly eighteenth-century buildings.  It is still an active commercial area, and is packed with a variety of interesting sights, including ornate churches, small museums and some very fine Rivera and Siqueiros **murals** , all of which can be seen in a few hours. 

# DIEGO RIVERA

 **Diego Rivera** (c.1886–1957), husband of **Frida Kahlo**, was the greatest of _Los Tres Grandes_ , the "Big Three" Mexican artists – the other two being **José Clemente Orozco** and **David Siqueiros** – who interpreted the Revolution and Mexican history through the medium of enormous murals, and put the nation's art onto an international footing in the first half of the twentieth century.  His works remain among the country's most striking sights. 

Rivera studied from the age of 10 at the **San Carlos Academy** in the capital, immediately showing immense ability.  He later moved to Paris, where he flirted with many of the new artistic trends, in particular Cubism.  More importantly, though, he and Siqueiros planned, in exile, a popular, native art to express the new society in Mexico.  In 1921 Rivera returned from Europe to the aftermath of the Revolution, and right away began work for the Ministry of Education at the behest of the socialist Education Minister, poet and presidential hopeful José Vasconcelos.  Informed by his own Communist beliefs, and encouraged by the leftist sympathies of the times, Rivera embarked on the first of his massive, consciousness-raising **murals** , whose themes – Mexican history, the oppression of the natives, post-Revolutionary resurgence – were initially more important than their techniques.  Many of his early murals are deceptively simple, naive even, but in fact Rivera's style remained close to major trends and, following the lead of Siqueiros, he took a scientific approach to his work, looking to industrial advances for new techniques, better materials and fresh inspiration.  The view of industrial growth as a panacea (particularly in the earlier works of both Rivera and Siqueiros) may have been simplistic, but the artists' use of technology and experimentation with new methods and original approaches often had startling results. 

## RIVERA AND TROTSKY

Communism continued to be a major source of motivation and inspiration for Rivera, who was a long-standing member of the Mexican Communist Party.  When ideological differences caused a rift in Soviet politics, he came down on the side of **Leon Trotsky** 's "revolutionary internationalism".  In 1936, with Trotsky running out of countries that would accept him after seven years on the run from Stalin's henchmen, Rivera used his influence over Mexican President Lázaro Cárdenas to get permission for Trotsky and his wife Natalia to enter the country.  They stayed with Diego and Frida rent-free at their Coyoacán house before Trotsky moved down the road to what is now the **Museo Casa de León Trotsky**.  The passionate and often violent differences between orthodox Stalinists and Trotskyites spilled over into the art world, creating a great rift between Rivera and ardent Stalinist Siqueiros, who was later jailed for his involvement in an assassination attempt on Trotsky.  Though Rivera later broke with Trotsky and was eventually readmitted to the Communist Party, Trotsky continued to admire Rivera's murals, finding them "not simply a 'painting', an object of passive contemplation, but a living part of the class struggle". 

## FOLLOWING THE RIVERA TRAIL

There is a huge amount of Rivera's work accessible to the public, much of it in Mexico City, but also elsewhere around the country.  The following is a rundown of the major Rivera sites, approximately ordered in accordance with their importance within each area. 

## NEAR THE ZÓCALO, THE ALAMEDA AND CHAPULTEPEC

Palacio National Major murals right in the heart of the capital. 

SEP There are many of Rivera's early murals around the courtyards of the Ministry of Education. 

Palacio de Bellas Artes Rivera's monumental _El Hombre en Control del Universo_ (and others), as well as murals by his contemporaries. 

Museo Mural Diego Rivera One of Rivera's most famous murals, _Sueño de una Tarde Dominical en la Alameda_ , is on display here. 

Museo de Arte Moderno Several quality canvases by Rivera and his contemporaries. 

Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso (ENP) One relatively minor Rivera mural. 

Museo Nacional de Arte A handful of minor canvases. 

## THE SUBURBS

Cárcomo de Dolores Two murals on water-related subjects by a lake in the Bosque de Chapultepec. 

Estadio Olímpico Mosaic relief depicting the relationship between sport and the family. 

Museo Dolores Olmedo Patiño A massive collection of Rivera works from almost every artistic period. 

Museo Frida Kahlo Just a couple of Diego's works displayed in the house where he and Frida spent some of their married life. 

Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo Diego's and Frida's pair of houses designed by Juan O'Gorman. 

Museo Diego Rivera Anahuacalli Large Maya-style house built by Rivera and housing his collection of pre-Columbian sculpture. 

Teatro de los Insurgentes Mosaic depicting the history of Mexican theatre. 

## OUTSIDE THE CAPITAL

Palacio de Cortés, Cuernavaca.  Early murals on a grand scale. 

Museo Robert Brady,  Cuernavaca.  A few paintings by both Frida and Diego. 

Museo Casa Diego Rivera,  Guanajuato.  Relatively minor works and sketches in the house where Diego was born. 

### Plaza Santo Domingo

Metro Zócalo

Beside the cathedral, Calle Monte de Piedad runs three blocks north (becoming República de Brasil) to the little colonial plaza of **Santo Domingo**.  In the middle of the square, a small fountain plays on a statue honouring La Corregidora, a heroine of Mexico's Independence struggle.  Eighteenth-century mansions line the sides of the plaza along with the fine Baroque church of Santo Domingo, built on the site of the country's first Dominican monastery.  Under the arcades you'll still find clerks sitting at little desks with ageing electric typewriters, as you will in most large Mexican cities – carrying on the ancient tradition of public scribes, their main function is to translate simple messages into the flowery, sycophantic language essential for any business letter in Spanish, but they'll type anything from student theses to love letters.  Alongside them are street printers working with antiquated hand presses, churning out business cards, forged documents and invitations on the spot. 

### Museo de la Medicina

Brasil 33, on northeast corner of Plaza Santo Domingo • Daily 9am–6pm • Free •  55 5623 3123 • Metro Zócalo

The **Museo de la Medicina** occupies grand rooms around a courtyard that was once the headquarters of the Inquisition in New Spain.  It was here that heretics were punished, and although the cruelty of the Inquisition is often exaggerated, it was undoubtedly the site of some gruesome scenes.  The extensive museum kicks off with interesting displays on indigenous medicine, religion and herbalism, often with reference to infirmity, in sculpture.  It is surprising how often skin diseases, humped backs and malformed limbs crop up in pre-Columbian art: note the terracotta sculpture bent double from osteoporosis.  The progress of Western medicine from colonial times to the present is also well covered, with an intact nineteenth-century pharmacy, a complete radiology room from 1939 and an obstetrics and gynaecology room filled with human embryos in bottles.  A "wax room" upstairs shows full-colour casts of various skin ailments, injuries and infections – the diseased genitalia are always a hit with local schoolkids.  As you leave, don't forget the "exhibit of the week" room by the entrance. 

### SEP

Brasil 31 (with another entrance at Argentina 28) • Mon–Fri 9am–6pm • Free • Metro Zócalo

From the Plaza de Santo Domingo, República de Cuba runs a block east to the **Secretaría de Educación Pública (SEP)** , the Ministry of Education building, where, in 1923 and 1924, Rivera painted his first **murals** on returning from Paris.  Don't be put off by the tight security – simply proclaim the word "murales" and you'll be shown straight through. 

The driving force behind the murals was **José Vasconcelos** , a revolutionary Minister of Public Education in the 1920s but better known as a poet and philosopher, who promoted educational art as a means of instilling a sense of history and cultural pride in a widely illiterate population.  He is the man most directly responsible for the murals in public buildings throughout the country.  Here, three floors of an enormous double patio are entirely covered with frescoes, as are many of the stairwells and almost any other flat surface.  Compared with what he later achieved, Rivera's work is very simple, but the style is already recognizable: panels crowded with figures, drawing inspiration mainly from rural Mexico, though also from an idealized view of science and industry. 

The most famous panel on the ground floor is the relatively apolitical _Día de los Muertos_ , which is rather hidden away in a dark corner at the back.  Continuing clockwise, there are equally striking images: _Quema de Judas_ and _La Asamblea Primero de Mayo_ , for example, and the lovely _El Canal de Santa Anita_.  On the first floor the work is quite plain, mostly in tones of grey – here you'll find the shields of the states of Mexico and such general educational themes as _Chemistry_ or _Physics_ , mostly the work of Rivera's assistants.  On the second floor are heroic themes from the Revolution.  At the back, clockwise from the left-hand side, the triumphant progress of the Revolution is traced, culminating in the happy scenes of a Mexico ruled by its workers and peasants. 

### Museo de la Caricatura

Donceles 99 • Daily 10am–6pm • M$20 • Metro Zócalo

The **Museo de la Caricatura** is a museum of Mexican cartoons and caricatures.  Located in a particularly fine example of an eighteenth-century nobleman's dwelling, complete with central courtyard, it exhibits a selection of work from Mexico's most famous caricaturists, but without a strong sense of Mexican history and a comprehensive grasp of Spanish much of the impact is lost.  It's still worth nipping in to see a small selection of bizarre nineteenth-century prints of skeletal mariachis by **José Guadalupe Posada** , a great influence on the later Muralist movement, and to take a break in the museum coffee shop in the central patio. 

### ENP (Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso)

Justo Serra 16 • Tues 10am–7.30pm, Wed–Sun 10am–5.30pm • M$45, free Tues • Metro Zócalo

As in the SEP, José Vasconcelos was largely responsible for the murals which adorn the interior of the eighteenth-century **Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso** (also called the Escuela Nacional Preparatoria, or **ENP** ), a building also notable for its imposing colonial facade on Justo Serra, facing the north side of the Templo Mayor.  Many artists are represented here, including Rivera and Siqueiros, but the most famous works are those of **José Clemente Orozco** , which you'll find on the main staircase and around the first floor of the main patio. 

#### Museo de la Luz

San Ildelfonso 43 • Mon–Fri 9am–4.30pm, Sat & Sun 10am–4.30pm • M$35 • Metro Zócalo

Housed in part of the northern wing of the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso, with its entrance on San Ildelfonso, the **Museo de la Luz** is a kind of hands-on celebration of all facets of reflection, refraction, iridescence and luminescence, spread over three floors.  Good Spanish is essential if you want to learn anything, but it's fun just playing with the optical tricks and effects, and exploring the use of light in art. 

### Museo de las Constituciones

San Ildelfonso (cnr Aztecas), almost diagonally opposite the Museo de la Luz • Tues–Sun 10am–6pm • Free • Metro Zócalo

The former Templo de San Pedro y San Pablo, built for the Company of Jesus between 1576 and 1603, was later used as a library, military college and correctional school, and was eventually taken over by the university.  The interior decoration – plain white, with the arches and pilasters painted in floral designs by Jorge Enciso and Roberto Montenegro – was, like those in SEP and the ENP, influenced by Vasconcelos.  The church has since been turned into the **Museo de las Constituciones** , with exhibits and explanations in Spanish on the string of constitutions which Mexico has had since Independence, but the murals will be of far more interest to most visitors, particularly Montenegro's almost pre-Raphaelite 1922 _Tree of Life_ , at the far end of the building as you enter. 

### Plaza de Loreto and around

Three blocks northeast of the Zócalo • Metro Zócalo

The **Plaza de Loreto** feels a world apart.  It is a truly elegant old square, entirely unmodernized and flanked by a couple of churches.  On one side is the **Templo de Loreto** , with its huge dome leaning at a crazy angle: inside, you'll find yourself staggering across the tilted floor. ** Santa Teresa** , across the plaza, has a bizarre cave-like chapel at the back, entirely artificial.  North of the Templo Loreto is a large and not especially exciting covered market, the **Mercado Presidente Abelardo Rodriguez** , inside most entrances of which is a series of large murals dating from the 1930s by an assortment of artists including Antonio Pujol and Pablo O'Higgins. 

< Back to Central Mexico City

## East of the Zócalo: along Calle Moneda

Museo de la SHCP

Casa de la Primera Imprenta

Centro Cultural Ex-Teresa Arte

Museo Nacional de las Culturas

Santa Inés

Museo José Luis Cuevas

Academia de San Carlos

Templo de la Santísima Trinidad

 **Calle Moneda** , running east from the centre, is one of the oldest streets in the city, and it's fascinating to wander up here and see the rapid change as you leave the immediate environs of the Zócalo.  The buildings remain almost wholly colonial, prim and refurbished around the museums, then gradually become shabbier and shabbier.  Within four or five blocks you're into a very depressed residential area, with street stalls spreading up from the giant market of La Merced, to the south. 

### Museo de la SHCP

Moneda 4 • Tues–Sun 10am–5pm • Free • Metro Zócalo

Just a few steps from the Zócalo, the **Museo de la SHCP** occupies the former archbishop's palace and presents Mexican fine art from the last three centuries in rooms surrounding two lovely open courtyards.  The building was constructed over part of Tenochtitlán's ceremonial centre, the Teocalli, and excavations have revealed a few foundation sections for the Templo de Tezcatlipoca pyramid that once stood here.  Notice the short flight of stairs, a jaguar carved in high relief and a series of anthropomorphic sculptures. 

### Casa de la Primera Imprenta

Licenciado Primo Verdad 10 (at Moneda) • Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat 10am–3pm • Free • Metro Zócalo

The **Casa de la Primera Imprenta** occupies the house where the first printing press in the Americas was set up in 1535, though the only indication of this is the model of the press that sits close to the entrance.  Archeological finds unearthed during restoration work are displayed in one room; other rooms house temporary exhibits. 

### Centro Cultural Ex-Teresa Arte

Licenciado Primo Verdad 8 • Daily 10am–6pm • Free • Metro Zócalo

You'll feel as if you aren't on solid ground the moment you step into the **Centro Cultural Ex-Teresa Arte** , one of the city's most subsided buildings which exhibits art and photography inside a Spanish imperial stone church.  The exhibitions are put on by a non-profit organization funded by the National Institute of Fine Arts, which are usually interesting but make rather poor use of the dizzying space. 

### Museo Nacional de las Culturas

Moneda 13 • Tues–Sun 10am–5pm • Free • Metro Zócalo

The **Museo Nacional de las Culturas** occupies the sixteenth-century Casa de la Moneda, the official mint until 1848 and later the National Museum, where the best of the Aztec artefacts were displayed until the construction of the Museo Nacional de Antropología.  Now immaculately restored, it houses a collection devoted to the archeology and anthropology of other countries.  With rooms of exhibits set around a quiet patio, it is more interesting than you might guess, though still somewhat overshadowed by so many other high-class museums in the city. 

### Santa Inés

Moneda 26 • Daily 9am–6pm • Free • Metro Zócalo

The eye-catching blue and gold **dome** of the church of **Santa Inés** is the church's only striking feature, and there's little else to admire apart from the delicately carved wooden doors.  Painters Miguel Cabrera and José Ibarra are both buried somewhere inside, but neither is commemorated in any way. 

### Museo José Luis Cuevas

Academia 13 • Tues–Sun 10am–6pm • M$20, free Sun • Metro Zócalo

The church of Santa Inés' former convent buildings have been transformed into the **Museo José Luis Cuevas** , an art gallery with changing displays centred on the 8m-high bronze, _La Giganta_ , designed by Cuevas.  The only permanent collection is one room full of erotica ranging from pre-Hispanic sculpture to line drawings, some by Cuevas. 

### Academia de San Carlos

Academia 22, on the corner of Moneda and Academia • Mon–Fri 9am–7pm • Free • Metro Zócalo

The **Academia de San Carlos** still operates as an art school, though on a considerably reduced scale from its nineteenth-century heyday; inside are galleries for temporary exhibitions and, in the patio, copies of classical sculptures. 

### Templo de la Santísima Trinidad

Santísima 12 • Metro Zócalo

The **Templo de la Santísima Trinidad** , from which the street takes its name, boasts one of the city's finest Baroque facades, floridly decorated with saints and cherubs.  As with many old colonial churches in the city centre, its soft footing has caused it to slump, and its sideways list has become so serious that it is now closed for strengthening work, though you can still admire the exterior. 

< Back to Central Mexico City

## South of the Zócalo

Suprema Corte de Justicia

Museo de la Ciudad de México

The church and hospital of Jesús Nazareno

Pino Suárez and Zócalo Metro stations

Claustro de la Merced

Museo de la Charrería

South of the Zócalo, Pino Suárez leads down to meet Izázaga, which marks the southern edge of the city centre proper.  The area to the east of Pino Suárez is largely a market area, and leads over to the wonderful **La Merced** market, while both Pino Suárez and Izázaga have a couple of sights that are worth a brief foray. 

### Suprema Corte de Justicia

On the corner of the Zócalo • Mon–Thurs 9am–2pm, Fri 9am–1.30pm • Free, but ID required to enter • Metro Zócalo

A colonial-style modern building houses the **Suprema Corte de Justicia**.  Inside are three superb, bitter murals by Orozco named _Luchas Proletarias_ ( _Proletarian Struggles_ ), _Las Riquezas Nacionales_ ( _The Nation's Riches_ ) and _La Justicia_ ( _Justice_ ).  The last, depicting Justice slumped asleep on her pedestal while bandits rob the people of their rights, was, not surprisingly, unpopular with the judges and powers that be, and Orozco never completed his commission here. 

### Museo de la Ciudad de México

Pino Suárez 30 • Tues–Sun 10am–5.30pm • M$24, free Wed •  cultura.df.gob.mx • Metro Zócalo

A couple of blocks south of the Zócalo, the **Museo de la Ciudad de México** is housed in the colonial palace of the Condes de Santiago de Calimaya.  This is a fabulous building, with carved stone cannons thrusting out from the cornice, magnificent heavy wooden doors and, on the far side, a hefty plumed serpent obviously dragged from the ruins of some Aztec temple to be employed as a cornerstone.  The rooms are mostly given over to temporary exhibits on all manner of themes, but on the top storey is the preserved studio of the landscape artist **Joaquín Clausell** , its walls plastered with portraits and little sketches that he scribbled between working on his paintings. 

### The church and hospital of Jesús Nazareno

On the west side of Pino Suárez • Daily 9am–5pm • Metro Pino Suárez

A memorial marking the spot where, according to legend, Cortés first met Moctezuma, is where you'll find the church and hospital of **Jesús Nazareno**.  The **hospital** , still in use, was founded by Cortés in 1528.  As such, it's one of the oldest buildings in the city, and exemplifies the severe, fortress-like construction of the immediate post-Conquest years.  The **church** , which contains the remains of Cortés and a bronze plaque to the left of the altar with the simple inscription "H.C. (1485–1547)", has been substantially remodelled over the years, its vaulting decorated with a fresco of the Apocalypse by Orozco. 

### Pino Suárez and Zócalo Metro stations

More or less opposite Jesús Nazareno is a small open space and an entrance to a bookshop-lined subterranean walkway, the **Tunel del Libro** , between Zócalo and Pino Suárez Metro stations, where there's a café and a space for silent reading. ** Zócalo station** has models of the Zócalo at different times in the past in its main concourse, and old pictures of the famous square reproduced on its platforms. ** Pino Suárez station** , meanwhile, has a whole **Aztec shrine** in the middle of it.  Uncovered during the station's construction, it has been preserved as an integral part of the concourse, and you'll pass right by it if changing lines here.  Dating from around the end of the fourteenth century, the shrine was dedicated to Quetzalcoatl in his guise of Ehecatl, god of the wind. 

### Claustro de la Merced

Uruguay 168 • Metro Merced or Pino Suárez

Heading east from Pino Suárez along Salvador or Uruguay takes you to the giant **market** area of La Merced.  If you walk on Uruguay you'll pass a beautiful cloister (claustro), all that remains of the seventeenth-century **Convento de la Merced** , the subject of extensive recent restoration work. 

### Museo de la Charrería

Isabel la Católica 108 • Mon–Fri 11am–5pm • Free • Metro Isabel la Católica

On the south side of Izázaga, at Isabel la Católica, a handsome colonial building holds the **Museo de la Charrería** , dedicated to all things cowboy, with a collection that includes old photographs, some of them inevitably rather camp, as well as sketches, watercolours, costumes, spurs and brands. 

< Back to Central Mexico City

## West to the Alameda

Along Madero

Torre Latinoamericana

Palacio de Bellas Artes

Correo Central

Palacio de Minería

Museo del Ejército y Fuerza

Torture and Capital Punishment Exhibition

Museo Nacional de Arte

The streets that lead down from the Zócalo towards the Alameda – **Tacuba** , **5 de Mayo** , **Madero** , **16 de Septiembre** and the lanes that cross them – are the most elegant and least affected by modern development in the city, lined with ancient buildings, traditional cafés, and shops and mansions converted into offices, banks or restaurants.  At the end of Madero, you come to the outer edge of the colonial city centre, and should find yourself, by contrast, standing between two of the most striking modern buildings in the capital: the **Torre Latinoamericana** and the **Palacio de Bellas Artes**.  Though it seems incredible when you compare them, they were completed within barely 25 years of each other. 

### Along Madero

On **Madero** you'll pass several former aristocratic palaces now given over to a variety of uses.  At no.  27 stands a slightly dilapidated mansion built in 1775 by mining magnate José de la Borda for his wife and presided over, on the corner of Bolivar, by a statue of the Virgin of Guadalupe.  Still further down Madero, at no.  17, you'll find the **Palacio de Iturbide** (Metro Allende), currently occupied by Banamex and thoroughly restored.  Originally the home of the Condes de Valparaíso in the eighteenth century, it was, from 1821 to 1823, the residence of the ill-fated "emperor" Agustín de Iturbide.  Nowadays it periodically houses free art exhibitions laid on by the bank.  In the next block, the last before you emerge at Bellas Artes and the Alameda, the churrigueresque church of **San Francisco** (Metro Bellas Artes) stands on the site of the first Franciscan mission to Mexico. 

#### Casa de los Azulejos

Madero 4 • Metro Bellas Artes

The sixteenth-century **Casa de los Azulejos** (House of Tiles), now a branch of the Sanborns department store chain, is so-called for its exterior, swathed entirely in blue and white tiles from Puebla that were added during remodelling in 1737.  The building survived a gas explosion in 1994 – though there was quite a bit of structural damage, luckily no one was hurt, and one of the most famous features of the building, the giant Orozco mural on the staircase, suffered few ill effects.  Inside you'll find a restaurant in the glassed-over patio, as well as all the usual shopping. 

### Torre Latinoamericana

Lázaro Cárdenas 2 • Daily 9am–10pm • M$60 •  torrelatino.com • Metro Bellas Artes

The distinctly dated steel-and-glass skyscraper of the **Torre Latinoamericana** was completed in 1956 and, until a few years ago, was the tallest building in Mexico and, indeed, the whole of Latin America.  It has now been outdone by the World Trade Center (formerly the _Hotel de México_ , on Insurgentes) and doubtless by others in South America, but it remains the city's outstanding landmark and a point of reference no matter where you are.  By world standards it is not especially tall, but on a clear day the views from the 139m observation deck are outstanding; if it's smoggy you're better off going up around dusk, catching the city as the sun sets, then watching as the lights delineate it far more clearly.  Having paid the fee, you're whisked up to the 36th floor where another lift takes you to "El Mirador", a glassed-in **observation area** with coin-operated telescopes on the 42nd and 43rd floors, and an outdoor terrace on the 44th floor. 

### Palacio de Bellas Artes

Av Juárez (at Lázaro Cárdenas) • Museum Tues–Sun 10am–6pm; main theatre tours Mon–Fri 1pm & 1.30pm • Museum M$49, free Sun or when there is no special exhibition on; main theatre tours free; M$30 to take photos, even with a phone •  palacio.bellasartes.gob.mx • Metro Bellas Artes

Facing the Torre Latinoamericano across Avenida Juárez, there's an equally impressive and substantially more beautiful engineering achievement in the form of the **Palacio de Bellas Artes**.  It was designed in 1901, at the height of the Díaz dictatorship, by the Italian architect Adamo Boari and built, in a grandiose Art Nouveau style, of white marble imported from Italy.  The construction wasn't actually completed, however, until 1934, with the Revolution and several new planners come and gone.  Some find the whole exterior overblown, but whatever your initial impressions, nothing will prepare you for the magnificent interior – an Art Deco extravaganza incorporating spectacular lighting, chevron friezes and stylized masks of the rain god, Tlaloc. 

Much of the interior splendour can be seen any time by wandering into the amazing Art Deco **foyer** (free) and simply gazing around the lower floor, where there is a good arts bookshop and the _Café del Palacio_ restaurant.  Some of the finest interior decor in the building is generally hidden from view in the **main theatre** , an important venue for classical music, opera and dance, but it can be seen, without attending a concert, if you join a tour, on which you'll be shown the amazing Tiffany glass curtain depicting the Valley of México and volcanoes, as well as the detailed proscenium mosaic and stained-glass ceiling. 

#### Museo del Palacio de Bellas Artes

If you want to see more of the building, you might consider visiting the art museum on the middle two floors, the **Museo del Palacio de Bellas Artes**.  In the galleries here you'll find a series of exhibitions, permanent displays of Mexican art and temporary shows of anything from local art-school graduates' work to that of major international names.  Of constant and abiding interest, however, are the great murals surrounding the museum's central space.  On the first floor are _Nacimiento de la Nacionalidad_ ( _Birth of Our Nationality_ ) and _México de Hoy_ ( _Mexico Today_ ) – dreamy, almost abstract works by **Rufino Tamayo**.  Going up a level you're confronted by the unique sight of murals by **Rivera** , **Orozco** and **Siqueiros** gathered in the same place.  Rivera's _El Hombre en Control del Universo_ ( _Man in Control of the Universe_ ), celebrating the liberating power of technology, was originally painted for Rockefeller Center in New York City, but destroyed for being too leftist – arch-capitalist Nelson Rockefeller objected to Rivera's inclusion of Karl Marx, even though he was well aware of Rivera's views when he commissioned the work.  This is Rivera's own copy, painted in 1934, just a year after the original.  It's worth studying the explanatory panel, which reveals some of the theory behind this complex work. 

Several smaller panels by Rivera are also displayed; these, too, were intended to be seen elsewhere (in this case on the walls of the _Hotel Reforma_ , downtown) but for years were covered up, presumably because of their unflattering depiction of tourists.  The works include _México Folklórico y Turístico_ , _La Dictadura_ , _La Danza de los Huichilobos_ and, perhaps the best of them, _Agustín Lorenzo_ , a portrayal of a guerrilla fighter against the French.  None of them was designed to be seen so close up, and you'll find yourself wanting to step back to get the big picture. _ Catarsis_ , a huge, vicious work by Orozco, occupies almost an entire wall, and there are also some particularly fine examples of Siqueiros' work: three powerful and original panels on the theme of _Democracía_ and a bloody depiction of the torture of Cuauhtémoc in _El Tormento de Cuauhtémoc_ , and of the same Aztec ruler's heroism in _Apoteosis de Cuauhtémoc_ ( _Cuauhtémoc Reborn_ ).  The uppermost floor is devoted to the **Museo de la Arquitectura** (same ticket and hours), which has no permanent collection, but frequently has interesting exhibits. 

### Correo Central

Corner of Tacuba and Lázaro Cárdenas • Mon–Fri 8am–5.30pm, Sat 8am–1.30pm • Metro Bellas Artes

The **Correo Central** is the city's main post office.  Completed in 1908, it was, like the Palacio de Bellas Artes, designed by Adamo Boari, but in a style much more consistent with the buildings around it.  Look closely and you'll find a wealth of intricate detail on the facade, while inside it's full of richly carved wood. 

#### Museum of Naval History

On the fourth floor of the Correo Central • Tues–Fri 10am–4.30pm, Sat 10am–1.30pm • Free • Explanations in Spanish only

Naval buffs will enjoy the **Museum of Naval History** , featuring models of old ships, a reconstruction in miniature of Cortés' waterborne battle against the Aztecs on the Lake of Texcoco, plus photos and artefacts of the 1914 US occupation of Veracruz. 

### Palacio de Minería

Tacuba 5 • Museo Manuel Tolsá Wed–Sun 10am–6pm; guided tours Sat & Sun 11am & 1pm • M$15 •  palaciomineria.unam.mx

The **Palacio de Minería** is a Neoclassical building which was built right at the end of the eighteenth century.  It was designed by Spanish-born Manuel Tolsá, who is the subject of the devotional **Museo Manuel Tolsá** (accessed from a door to the east of the main entrance) – a couple of rooms of paintings and architectural drawings, strictly for fans only.  The exterior of the palacio makes an interesting contrast with the post office and with the Museo Nacional de Arte directly opposite, and the main entrance has some impressively large meteorites on display. 

### Museo del Ejército y Fuerza

Filomeno Mata 6 • Tues–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 10am–4pm • Free

The Convento de las Betlemitas, a small seventeenth-century convent, now houses the **Museo del Ejército y Fuerza** (Army Museum).  Its exhibits are a mix of vintage weapons, flags, uniforms and paintings (plus a few photos) of battles and patriotic heroes, notably the Niños Héroes.  Aside from diehard Mexican patriots, the museum will mostly appeal to weapons buffs. 

### Torture and Capital Punishment Exhibition

Tacuba 15 • Daily 10am–6pm • M$60 • Metro Bellas Artes

The macabre **Exposición de Instrumentos de Tortura y Pena Capital** exhibits instruments of torture and execution from the time of the Inquisition onwards.  Kicking off with instruments of public humiliation, such as an old pillory, it swiftly moves on to fiendish implements of torture, methods of applying the death penalty and instruments used specifically on women.  Skeletons and dummies of the victims add to the gruesomeness. 

### Museo Nacional de Arte

Tacuba 8 • Tues–Sun 10.30am–5.30pm • M$37, free Sun, photo permit M$5 •  munal.com.mx • Metro Bellas Artes

The **Museo Nacional de Arte** is set back from the street on a tiny plaza in which stands one of the city's most famous sculptures, **El Caballito** , portraying Carlos IV of Spain.  This enormous bronze, the work of Manuel Tolsá, was originally erected in the Zócalo in 1803.  In the intervening years it has graced a variety of sites and, despite the unpopularity of the Spanish monarchy (and of the effete Carlos IV in particular), is still regarded affectionately.  The latest setting is appropriate, since Tolsá also designed the nearby Palacio de Minería.  The open plaza around the sculpture is now often the scene of intense pre-Columbian drumming and dancing, which usually draws an appreciative crowd. 

Though the museum is the foremost showcase of Mexican art from the 1550s to the 1950s, with a collection of over a thousand pieces, its interest is mainly historical.  Most of the major Mexican artists are represented, but with essentially mediocre examples spiced only occasionally with a more striking work.  It's worth coming here to see something of the dress and landscape of old Mexico, and also some of the curiosities, but don't expect masterpieces. 

Temporary displays take up the ground floor (along with a good bookshop and café), leaving the two floors above for the permanent collection. 

#### The top floor

To follow the displays in chronological order, start on the **top floor** , where rooms 1 to 14 cover **pre-Independence art** , the earliest works indistinguishable from those of Inquisition Spain – lots of saints, virgins and gory martyrdoms.  José de Mora's 1719 _Señor de Chalma_ in room 10 – a crucifixion scene apparently copied from a painting in Chalma that was later destroyed by fire – seems to give the first hint of an emerging Mexican style. ** Nineteenth-century art** starts in rooms 15 to 19 – **José Maria Obregón** 's depiction of the medieval Italian painters Giotto and Cimabue in room 17 may interest art historians – and continues on the middle floor. 

#### The middle floor

As the nineteenth century progresses, Mexican themes take hold, with paintings like Obregón's _El Descubrimiento del Pulque_ ( _The Discovery of Pulque_ ) and _La Fundación de México_ in room 20. ** José Maria Velasco** 's landscapes of the Valley of México in room 22 abandon the history in favour of contemporary Mexico, and in the same room, an illustration of the Zócalo in the early nineteenth century by the British artist and traveller John Phillips is interesting more for historical than artistic reasons. 

Room 27 heralds the **twentieth century** , with paintings like the macabre 1914 _Paisaje de Zacatecas con Ahorcados II_ ( _Zacatecas Landscape with Hanged Men II_ ) by Francisco Goitia.  That room, and the next, also have a handful of minor works by **Diego Rivera** , but the cubist works by him in room 31 are a lot more interesting.  Indeed, room 31 marks the climax of the collection, with strking works by Rivera's fellow muralists **David Siqueiros** (such as _Accidente en la Mina_ ), **José Clemente Orozco** ( _Cabeza Flechada_ or _Head Shot Through with Arrows_ ) and a self-portrait by **Juan O'Gorman** , as well as Rivera's excellent portrait of Adolfo Best Maugard.  Siqueiros' full-length portrait of art patron Maria Asúnsolo coming downstairs, in room 30, is also not to be missed. 

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP PALACIO DE BELLAS ARTES; MARIACHI IN PLAZA GARIBALDI; DRIED CHILE PEPPERS FOR SALE AT LA MERCED

< Back to Central Mexico City

## The Alameda and beyond

Museo de Tequila y Mezcal

Museo de la Estampa

Laboratorio Arte Alameda

Museo Mural Diego Rivera

From behind Bellas Artes, Lázaro Cárdenas runs north towards the **Plaza Garibaldi** through an area crowded with seedy cantinas and eating places, theatres and burlesque shows.  West of the Palacio de Bellas Artes lies the **Alameda** , first laid out as a park in 1592, and taking its name from the _alamos_ (poplars) then planted.  The Alameda had originally been an Aztec market and later became the site where the Inquisition burned its victims at the stake.  Most of what you see now – formally laid-out paths and flowerbeds, ornamental statuary and fountains – dates from the nineteenth century, when it was the fashionable place to stroll.  It's still popular, always full of people, particularly at weekends, but it's mostly a transient population – office workers taking lunch, shoppers resting their feet, messengers taking a short cut and street vendors selling T-shirts. 

### Museo de Tequila y Mezcal

Plaza Garibaldi • Mon–Wed & Sun 1–10pm; Thurs–Sat 1pm–midnight • M$50 •  mutemgaribaldi.mx • Metro Garibaldi or Bellas Artes

The Museum of Tequila and Mezcal (MUTEM) tells the story of Mexico's best-known liquors, as well as that of Plaza Garibaldi and its mariachis.  Explanations are in Spanish and English, with lots of old photos.  It's one of those museums that would be equally good as a book – there aren't any exhibits as such, apart from a large variety of agave plants – and the very limited free samples aren't worth getting excited about either, although the rooftop bar is good.  It nevertheless makes for a fun half-hour's worth of information, and if you come here on a Friday or Saturday night, you can spill out into the square afterwards to sample the liquors in question to the sound of mariachi musicians. 

### Museo de la Estampa

Hidalgo 39 • Tues–Sun 10am–5.45pm • M$10; free Sun • Metro Bellas Artes

On the north side of the Alameda, Avenida Hidalgo traces the line of an ancient thoroughfare, starting from the Teatro Hidalgo, right opposite Bellas Artes.  To the west, a little sunken square by the church of Santa Vera Cruz, the **Museo de la Estampa** , is dedicated to engraving, an art form taken seriously in Mexico, where the legacy of José Guadalupe Posada is still revered.  There is no permanent collection, but you may expect anything from engravings and printing plates from pre-Columbian times to the modern age, including works by Posada. 

### Laboratorio Arte Alameda

Dr Mora 7 • Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • M$19; free Sun •  artealameda.bellasartes.gob.mx • Metro Hidalgo

The **Laboratorio Arte Alameda** is an art museum built into the glorious seventeenth-century monastery of San Diego.  The cool, white interior is filled with temporary exhibitions of challenging contemporary art.  They're all superbly displayed around the church, chapel and cloister of the old monastery. 

### Museo Mural Diego Rivera

Corner of Balderas and Colón • Tues–Sun 10am–6pm • M$21; free Sun; photo permit M$5 •  museomuraldiegorivera.bellasartes.gob.mx • Metro Hidalgo

One of the buildings worst hit by the 1985 earthquake was the _Hotel del Prado_ , which contained the Rivera mural _Sueño de una Tarde Dominical en la Alameda_ ( _Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in the Alameda_ ).  The mural survived the quake, and was subsequently picked up in its entirety and transported around the Alameda – it can now be seen in the **Museo Mural Diego Rivera** , at the western end of the park.  It's an impressive work – showing almost every famous Mexican character out for a stroll – but one suspects that its popularity with tour groups is as much to do with its relatively apolitical nature as with any superiority to Rivera's other works.  Originally it included a placard with the words "God does not exist", which caused a huge furore, and Rivera was forced to paint it out before the mural was first displayed to the public. 

Panels at the back of the sala housing the mural (Spanish on one side, English on the other), and also a leaflet available at the entrance (M$10), explain every character in the scene: Cortés is depicted with his hands stained red with blood; José Guadalupe Posada stands bowler-hatted next to his trademark skeleton, _La Calavera Catrina_ , who holds the hand of Rivera himself, portrayed as a 9-year-old boy; Frida Kahlo stands in motherly fashion, just behind him. 

< Back to Central Mexico City

## Paseo de la Reforma and around

Church of San Hipólito

Panteón de San Fernando

Museo Nacional de San Carlos

Monumento a la Revolución

 **Paseo de la Reforma** is the most impressive street in Mexico City, lined by tall, modern buildings.  It was originally laid out in the 1860s by Emperor Maximilian to provide the city with a boulevard to rival the great European capitals, and doubled as a ceremonial drive from his palace in Chapultepec to the centre.  It also provided a new impetus, and direction, for the growing metropolis.  The original length of the broad avenue ran simply from the Bosque de Chapultepec to the junction of Juárez – at 5km a very long walk, but there are plenty of buses and _peseros_ – and although it has been extended in both directions, this stretch is still what everyone thinks of as Reforma. 

" **Reforma Norte** ", as the extension towards Guadalupe is known, is just as wide (and the traffic just as dense), but is almost a term of disparagement. ** Real Reforma** , however, remains imposing – ten lanes of traffic, lines of trees, grand statues at every intersection and perhaps three or four of the original French-style, nineteenth-century houses still surviving.  Twenty or thirty years ago it was the dynamic heart of the growing city, with even relatively new buildings being torn down to make way for yet newer, taller, more prestigious towers of steel and glass.  The pulse has since moved elsewhere, and the fancy shops have relocated, leaving an avenue now mostly lined with airline offices, car rental agencies and banks, and somewhat diminishing the pleasure of a stroll. 

### Church of San Hipólito

Corner of Reforma and Puente de Alvarado • Mon–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 6am–5pm • Free • Metro Hidalgo

The church of **San Hipólito** was founded by the Spanish soon after their eventual victory, both as a celebration and to commemorate the events of the Noche Triste.  The present building dates from 1602, though over the years it has been damaged by earthquakes and rebuilt.  It now lists very visibly to one side. 

# PUENTE DE ALVARADO

West of Reforma, Calle Hidalgo becomes the **Puente de Alvarado**.  This was once one of the main causeways leading out of Tenochtitlán, across the lake which surrounded it, and was the route by which the Spanish attempted to flee the city on **Noche Triste** (Sad Night), July 10, 1520.  Following the death of Moctezuma, and with his men virtually under siege in their quarters, Cortés decided to escape the city under cover of darkness.  It was a disaster: the Aztecs cut the bridges and, attacking the bogged-down invaders from their canoes, killed all but 440 of the 1300 Spanish soldiers who set out, and more than half their native allies. ** Greed** , as much as anything, cost the Spanish troops their lives, for in trying to take their gold booty with them they were, in the words of Bernal Díaz, "so weighed down by the stuff that they could neither run nor swim". 

The street takes its name from **Pedro de Alvarado** , one of the last conquistadors to escape, crossing the broken bridge "in great peril after their horses had been killed, treading on the dead men, horses and boxes".  In 1976, a **gold bar** like those made by Cortés from melted-down Aztec treasures was dug up in Calle Tacuba.  It's now in the Museo Nacional de Antropología.  Without doubt, it was part of the treasure being carried by one of the conquistadors attempting to flee the city – a treasure which, as in all good treasure stories, ended up putting a curse on its robbers. 

### Panteón de San Fernando

Plaza San Fernando • Tues–Sun 9am–7pm • Free • Metro Hidalgo

The Baroque eighteenth-century church of **San Fernando** , by the plaza of the same name, was once one of the richest churches in the city.  Stripped over the years, it is now mostly of interest for its _panteón_ (graveyard), last resting place of **Benito Juárez** and many of his colleagues in the reform movement, whose names will be familiar from the streets which now bear them: Ignacio Zaragoza, Guillermo Prieto, Miguel Lerdo de Tejada, Melchor Ocampo, Ignacio Comonfort. 

### Museo Nacional de San Carlos

Puente de Alvarado 50 • Daily except Tues 10am–6pm • M$31, free Sun •  mnsancarlos.com • Metro Revolución

Where Puente de Alvarado meets Ramos Ariza, the **Museo Nacional de San Carlos** houses the country's oldest art collection, begun in 1783 by Carlos III of Spain, and comprising largely European work of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries with some notable earlier and later additions.  Major names are largely absent, but look for the delicate _San Pedro, San Andrés y San Mateo_ by fifteenth-century Spanish painter Maestro de Palaquinos, portraits by Reynolds, Rubens and Hals and a luminous canvas of Breton women by the sea ( _Mujeres Bretones a la Orilla del Mar_ ) by another Spaniard, Manuel Benedito y Vives.  Travelling exhibitions are also frequently based here. 

### Monumento a la Revolución

Plaza de la República; mirador entrance from west side • Mon–Thurs 10am–6pm, Fri & Sat 10am–10pm, Sun 10am–8pm • M$40; free Wed • Metro Revolución

The vast **Monumento a la Revolución** was originally intended to be the central dome of a new home for the Cortes (parliament), though its construction was interrupted by the Revolution and never resumed – in the end they buried a few heroes of the Revolution under the mighty columns (including Pancho Villa and presidents Madero, Carranza and Cárdenas) and turned the whole thing into a memorial.  An **elevator** has now been added to take you up to the **mirador** at the top.  The views aren't as good as from the Torre Latinoamericano, but you can see out to the edge of the city, especially to the north and west. 

#### Museo Nacional de la Revolución

Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • M$24, free Sun

Underneath the monument, the **Museo Nacional de la Revolución** tells the history of the Revolution through archive pictures, old newspapers, films and life-size tableaux.  Part of the museum is devoted to the construction of the monument itself.  Other sections cover the Porfirio Díaz dictatorship, the various stages of the revolution, and how it broke down into civil war, resulting in the emergence of a new constitution and republic. 

< Back to Central Mexico City

## Zona Rosa

El Ángel

Museo de Cera and ¡Aunque Ud.  No lo Crea! 

Colonia Cuauhtémoc

To the south of Reforma lies the **Zona Rosa** (Metro Insurgentes), a triangular area bordered by Reforma, Avenida Chapultepec and, to the west, Chapultepec Park.  You'll know you're there as the streets are all named after famous cities.  Packed into this tiny area are hundreds of bars, restaurants, hotels and shops, all teeming with a vast number of tourists and a cross section of Mexico City's aspiring middle classes.  Until the 1980s this was the city's swankiest commercial neighbourhood, but the classiest shops have moved to Polanco and many of the big international chains have relocated to the out-of-town shopping centres that have sprung up around the Periférico.  Though there's no shortage of good shops, and the selection of restaurants, cafés, clubs and bars in the Zona Rosa is respectable, it has lost its exclusive feel.  It does however claim to have an _ambiente joven_ (young vibe), and it's certainly popular with young people, as well as hosting Mexico City's **gay village** , which is located around the northern end of Amberes.  Otherwise, there isn't much you'd come here especially to see.  One historical figure who stayed here was **Pancho Villa** , quartered, when his troops were in town, at Liverpool 76. 

### El Ángel

Paseo de la Reforma at Florencia and Rio Tiber • Mon–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat & Sun 10am–3pm; elevator Mon–Fri 10am–6pm; Sat & Sun 10am–1pm • Free, but ID needed for the lift • Metro Insurgentes or Sevilla

The column of **El Ángel** , officially known as the **Monumento a la Independencia** , was built in 1910.  In its base you can visit a room containing the skulls of Independence heroes Hidalgo, Aldama, Allende and Jiménez, and at weekends you can take a lift to the top of the monument, but it's a popular ride, so expect queues (the line snakes around from the door in the plinth).  You can go up on weekdays, but you'll need to request permission from the _delegacion's_ offices beforehand: a tedious exercise that requires around an hour and your passport. 

### Museo de Cera and ¡Aunque Ud.  No lo Crea! 

Londres 6 • Daily 11am–7pm • One museum M$70, joint ticket for two museums M$130 • Metro Cuauhtémoc

The Zona Rosa's only real attraction is the **Museo de Cera** (Wax Museum), located on its eastern fringes.  Thoroughly tacky, with a basement chamber of horrors that includes Aztec human sacrifices, it shares its site with the Mexican branch of **Ripley's Believe It or Not Museum** (called in Spanish "¡Aunque Ud.  No lo Crea!"),  which displays such marvels as flea costumes and hair sculpture. 

# GLORIETAS

The length of Reforma is punctuated by **glorietas** – roundabouts at the major intersections – each with a distinctive statue, providing easy landmarks along the way.  The first, if heading southwest from the Alameda, is the **Glorieta Colón** , with a statue of Christopher Columbus.  Around the base of the plinth are carved various friars and monks who assisted Columbus in his enterprise or brought the Catholic faith to the Mexicans. 

The Plaza de la República is just off to the north.  Next comes the crossing of Insurgentes, nodal point of all the city's traffic, with **Cuauhtémoc** , last emperor of the Aztecs and leader of their resistance, poised aloof above it all in a plumed robe, clutching his spear, surrounded by warriors.  Bas-relief engravings on the pedestal depict his torture and execution at the hands of the Spanish, desperate to discover where the Aztec treasures lay hidden. ** El Ángel**, a golden winged victory atop a 40m column, is the third to look out for, and the place to alight for the centre of the Zona Rosa. 

### Colonia Cuauhtémoc

The northern side of Reforma, where the streets are named after rivers (Tiber, Danubio and the like), is a much quieter, posh residential area officially known as **Colonia Cuauhtémoc** , though it's usually just bundled in with the Zona Rosa.  Here you'll find some of the older embassies, notably the US embassy, on Reforma, bristling with razor wire and security cameras. 

#### Museo Venustiano Carranza

Río Lerma 35 • Tues–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 9am–5pm • M$42, free Sun, video permit M$45 • Metro Insurgentes

Near the British embassy in Cuauhtémoc is the **Museo Venustiano Carranza**.  Carranza was a Revolutionary leader and president of the Republic who was shot in 1920.  The building was his home in Mexico City and contains exhibits relating to his life and to the Revolution. 

#### Parque Sullivan

Just north of the junction of Reforma and Insurgentes

 **Parque Sullivan** hosts free open-air exhibitions and sales of paintings, ceramics and other works of art every Sunday (roughly 10am–4pm); some of them are very good, and a pleasant holiday atmosphere prevails. 

< Back to Central Mexico City

## Roma and Condesa

Parque México and around

Getting to Roma and Condesa

South of the Zona Rosa lie the residential districts of **Roma** and **Condesa** , full of quiet leafy streets once you get away from the main avenues that cut through.  Both suburbs were developed in the 1930s and 1940s, but as the city expanded they became unfashionable and run-down.  That all changed in the 1990s when artists and the bohemian fringe were drawn here by low rents, decent housing and proximity to the centre of the city.  Small-time galleries sprang up and the first of the bars and cafés opened. 

Condesa, in particular, is now one of the best areas for good eating in the city, and definitely the place to come for lounging in pavement cafés or dining in bistro-style **restaurants**.  The greatest concentration is around the junction of Michoacán, and Tamaulipas, but establishments spread out into the surrounding streets, where you'll often find quiet neighbourhood places with tables spilling out onto the pavement.  Sights in the usual sense are virtually nonexistent, but you can pass a few hours just walking the streets keeping an eye out for interesting art galleries, which seem to spring up all the time.  The leafy thoroughfare of Nuevo Leon bisects the _colonia_ , with the leafy Parque México to the east, which is a popular haven from the raucous city outside the limits of the circular Avenida Amsterdam, where jogging and café culture are the main order of business. 

### Parque México and around

 **Parque México** , officially Parque San Martín, is a large green space virtually in the heart of Condesa that was set aside when the owners of the horse track sold it to developers back in 1924.  The streets around the park, especially Avenida México, are rich in 1930s architecture, showcasing Mexico's own distinctive version of Art Deco. 

# GETTING TO ROMA AND CONDESA: ROMA AND CONDESA

By metro The Metro system gives Condesa a wide berth, with line 1 skirting the north and west while line 9 runs along the south side.  For more direct access to Condesa's main restaurant district take line 1 to Juanacatlán, and cross the Circuito Interior using the nearby footbridge.  This brings you onto Francisco Marquez, which leads to the restaurants – a 10min walk in all.  Alternatively, take line 9 to Chilpancingo. 

By metrobús Take line 1 to Sonora or Campeche. 

On foot It is easy enough to walk to Condesa south from the Zona Rosa (Metro Insurgentes, Sevilla or Chapultepec). 

< Back to Central Mexico City

## Polanco

Sala de Arte Público David Siqueiros

High-priced high-rise hotels line the northern edge of Chapultepec Park, casting their shadow over the smart suburb of **Colonia Polanco**.  Along the _colonia's_ main drag, **Presidente Masaryk** , the beautiful people drive by in their Porsches and Lexus SUVs on their way to the Fendi or Ferragamo stores, and Polanco also has great dining, but otherwise, unless you've got brand-name shopping in mind or need to visit one of the district's embassies, there's not much reason to come out this way.  In recent years something of a culinary renaissance has occurred to the north of **Parque Lincoln** , where three blocks of restaurants serve up varying qualities of world cuisine to a predominantly expat community. 

### Sala de Arte Público David Siqueiros

Tres Picos 29 • Tues–Sun 10am–6pm • M$12, free Sun • Metro Polanco

The only tourist sight in Polanco is the **Sala de Arte Público David Siqueiros** , a small but interesting collection of the great muralist's later work, including sketches he made for the Polyforum murals.  They're all displayed in his former residence and studio, donated (along with everything in it) to the people of Mexico just 25 days before his death in 1973. 

If it is not already playing, ask to see the hour-long **video** (in English) on his life and work made just before his death, and watch it surrounded by his murals, which cover just about every piece of wall space. 

< Back to Central Mexico City

# BOSQUE DE CHAPULTEPEC

Essentials

Primera Sección and around

Museo Nacional de Antropología

Museo de Arte Moderno

Museo Rufino Tamayo

Segunda and Tercera secciónes and around

The **Bosque de Chapultepec** ( chapultepec.org.mx) is a vast green area, about a thousand acres in all, dotted with trees, museums, boating lakes, gardens, playing fields and a zoo.  It provides an escape from the pressures of the city for seemingly millions of Mexicans, with the result that the most visited areas get a heavy pounding and some areas are occasionally fenced off to allow the plants to recover. 

Most of the Bosque is taken up by **Chapultepec Park** , which is divided into three sections: the easternmost **Primera Sección** , or First Section, is home to the points of greatest interest, including the zoo; the **Segunda Sección** , or Second Section, is mostly aimed at kids, with an amusement park, technology museum and natural history museum; and the **Tercera Sección** , or Third Section, is currently being re-landscaped. 

### Brief history

The rocky outcrop of **Chapultepec** (Náhuatl for "hill of the locust"), from which the entire area has taken its name, is mentioned in **Toltec** mythology, but first gained historical significance in the thirteenth century when it was no more than an anonymous island among the lakes and salt marshes of the valley.  Here the **Aztecs** , still a wandering, savage tribe, made their first home, though it proved to be temporary when they were defeated and driven off by neighbouring cities.  Once **Tenochtitlán** 's power was established they returned here, channelling water from the springs into the city, and turning Chapultepec into a summer resort for the emperor, with plentiful hunting and fishing around a fortified palace.  Several Aztec rulers had their portraits carved into the rock of the hill, though most of these images were destroyed by the Spaniards soon after the Conquest. 

# ESSENTIALS: BOSQUE DE CHAPULTEPEC

## OPENING HOURS

Chapultepec is a big place with a lot to do.  You could easily spend a couple of days here and still not see everything, but if you are selective you can cover the best of it in one tiring day.  It can be tempting to visit on Sun, when some of the museums are free, and the park is at its vibrant best.  However, if you want to be able to move freely it's worth coming during the week. 

The Primera Sección The Primera Sección and its museums are only open during the daytime, and are closed on Mon.  The Museo de Arte Moderno and Rufino Tamayo museums are free on Sun; the Museo Nacional de Antropología used to be, but no longer is.  The entrances to these museums are grouped together along Paseo de la Reforma, less than a 15min walk from Chapultepec Metro station, but you may prefer to catch a _pesero_ ("Auditorio", "Reforma km 13" and others) along Reforma. 

The Segunda and Tercera Secciónes These secciónes – though not the attractions inside them – are open all the time. 

## ACCESS

How you approach the Bosque depends on what you want to see first. 

The Primera Sección The easiest access to the First Section of the park is via the Metro Chapultepec station, from where you follow the crowds over a bridge across the Circuito Interior (inner ring road).  Straight ahead you'll see the Niños Héroes monument and the castle containing the Museo Nacional de Historia.  What you may be more interested in taking in along with Section One are the Museo Nacional de Antropología, the Museo de Arte Moderno and the Museo Rufino Tamayo, all officially outside of the Primera Sección yet still surrounded by parkland.  You're unlikley, however, to fit all of these into one day. 

The Segunda Sección Visitors with kids may want to head straight for the Second Section, either picking up a _pesero_ along Constituyentes (routes 2, 24 and others) from Metro Chapultepec, or going direct to Metro Constituyentes and walking from there. 

< Back to Bosque de Chapultepec

## Primera Sección and around

Monumento a los Niños Héroes

Museo de Caracol

Museo Nacional de Historia

Lago Chapultepec

Parque Zoológico de Chapultepec

Los Pinos and around

Casa Luis Barragán

Tues–Sun: summer 5am–6pm; winter 5am–7pm • Free • Metro Chapultepec

The **First Section** of the park is dominated by **Chapultepec Hill** , crowned by Emperor Maximilian's very peaceful-looking "castle".  Also in the First Section is the **zoo** and the nearby **boating lake** , All week, but especially on Sundays, the area around these attractions is full of vendors selling souvenirs, snacks and sweets. 

### Monumento a los Niños Héroes

Directly opposite the park's main entrance, coming in from Chapultepec metro station

This strange, six-columned monument is dedicated to the **Niños Héroes** : cadets who attempted to defend the castle (then a military academy) against American invaders in 1847.  According to the story, probably apocryphal, the last six flung themselves off the cliff wrapped in Mexican flags rather than surrender. 

### Museo de Caracol

Near the top of Chapultepec Hill • Tues–Sun 9am–4.15pm • M$39, free Sun

The modern **Museo de Caracol** is devoted to "the Mexican people's struggle for Liberty".  Its full name is the Museo Galería de la Lucha del Pueblo Mexicano por su Libertad, but it's colloquially known as the "shell museum" for the snail-like spiralling route through the displays.  These trace the history of the constant wars that have beset the country – from Independence, through the American and French interventions to the Revolution. 

### Museo Nacional de Historia

At the top of Chapultepec Hill • Tues–Sun 9am–5pm • M$51, free Sun •  mnh.inah.gob.mx • Land trains from the bottom of the hill run every 15min, costing M$13 for the round trip

The castle which today houses the **Museo Nacional de Historia** was built in 1785 as a summer retreat for the Spanish viceroy.  Until then it had been the site of a hermitage established on the departure of the Aztec rulers.  Following Independence it served as a military school, but the present design was dictated by Emperor Maximilian, who remodelled it in the image of his Italian villa. 

The setting is very much part of the attraction, with many rooms retaining the opulent furnishings left behind by Maximilian and Carlota, or by later inhabitants with equally expensive tastes, notably Porfirio Díaz.  Rivalling the decor is a small group of carriages, including the fabulously pompous Cinderella-goes-to-the-ball state coaches favoured by Maximilian.  A collection of furniture, glassware and medals leads on to the main attraction of the lower floor, a series of ornate rooms viewed from a black-and-white tiled terrace that affords great views over the park and city.  Peer into Maximilian's office, games room and drawing room, all gilt and dark wood, then move on to Carlota's bedroom and a gorgeous tiled bathroom. 

There are several murals here as well, including a number of works by **Orozco** and **Siqueiros** , but the ones by **Juan O'Gorman** most directly attract attention for their single-minded political message. 

### Lago Chapultepec

On the south side of Reforma, opposite the Museo de Antropología • Boat rental M$60–100/hr for 1–5 people, depending on the size of the boat

If you like messing about in **boats** , you'll probably enjoy **Lago Chapultepec** , a boating lake where you can rent vessels of various sizes and while away a leisurely afternoon.  A smaller lake, just across the path from the Monument to the Niños Héroes, is used for radio-controlled boats. 

### Parque Zoológico de Chapultepec

At the western side of Lago Chapultepec • Tues–Sun 9am–4.30pm • Free •  sedema.df.gob.mx/zoo_chapultepec

The **Parque Zoológico de Chapultepec** occupies a large area in the centre of the park and is divided up into climatic zones (desert, tropical, temperate forests, etc), some of which work better than others.  Enclosures are mostly open air and tolerably large, though the animals still look bored and confined, and you wonder about their sanity on a Sunday afternoon when half of Mexico City's children seem to be vying for their attention.  Probably the most satisfying sections are the most archetypally Mexican: the desert zone, and the enclosure of **xoloitzcuintles** , the hairless dogs that represent the last surviving of four pre-Columbian breeds. 

All the big beasts make an appearance, too: tigers, bears, lions, bison, camels, giraffes, hippos, elephants and the ever-popular **giant pandas**.  The zoo is inordinately proud of these, evidenced by the posters around town that advertise new baby bears when they are born – in fact, this was the first place in the world to breed giant pandas in captivity. 

### Los Pinos and around

The street which heads south from Metro Auditorio, Calzada Chivatito, changes its name about halfway to Molino del Rey, after the major battle fought here during the Mexican–American War.  Near its southern end is **Los Pinos** , the president's official residence, which is strictly off-limits.  A couple of footbridges lead across the _periférico_ (Blv López Mateos) to the park's Second Section. 

### Casa Luis Barragán

Francisco Ramírez 14 • Appointment only Mon–Fri 10.30am, 11.30am, 12.30pm, 3pm & 4pm, Sat 10.30am & 12.30pm • M$150 •  55 5515 4908,  casaluisbarragan.org • Metro Constituyentes

Outside the park limits, south of Avenida Constituyentes, the **Casa Luis Barragán** is a 1948 modernist house designed by Mexican architect Luis Barragán, all whitewash and right angles.  Nowadays, it's used for modern art exhibitions. 

< Back to Bosque de Chapultepec

## Museo Nacional de Antropología

Pre-Classic

Teotihuacán

Toltec

Mexica (Aztec)

Oaxaca

Gulf of Mexico

Maya

Northern and western societies

The Ethnography Section

Tues–Sun 9am–7pm • M$64, video M$45 •  mna.inah.gob.mx

The park's outstanding attraction – for many people the main justification for visiting the city at all – is the **Museo Nacional de Antropología** , one of the world's great museums, not only for its collection, which is vast, rich and diverse, but also for the originality and practicality of its design.  Opened in 1964, the exhibition halls surround a patio with a small pond and a vast, square concrete umbrella supported by a single slender pillar around which splashes an artificial cascade.  The halls are ringed by gardens, many of which contain outdoor exhibits. 

The entrance from Reforma is marked by a colossal statue of the rain god Tlaloc – the story goes that its move here from its original home in the east of the city was accompanied by furious downpours in the midst of a drought.  Just east of the museum is a large open plaza, at one end of which is a small clearing pierced by a 20m pole from which **voladores** "fly".  This Totonac ceremony is performed several times a day, and loses a lot of its appeal through its commercial nature – an assistant canvasses the crowd for donations as they perform – but it is still an impressive spectacle. 

# NAVIGATING THE MUSEO NACIONAL DE ANTROPOLOGÍA

The museum's rooms, each devoted to a separate period or culture, are arranged chronologically in an anticlockwise pattern around the central courtyard.  As you come into the **entrance hall** there's a small circular space with temporary exhibitions, usually very interesting and devoted to the latest developments in archeology; here too is the small **Sala de Orientación** , which presents an audio-visual overview of the major ancient cultures.  Off to the left you'll find the **library** and a **shop** selling postcards, souvenirs, books in several languages on Mexican culture, archeology and history, and **guidebooks** (two sizes, in Spanish, English, French or German; M$78 and M$299), which provide photographs and descriptions of most of the important pieces. ** The ticket office** , and the **entrance** to the museum proper, is by the huge glass doors to the right, where you can also rent headsets, which effectively take you on a **tour** of the museum's highlights in Spanish, English or French for M$75 (and you have to deposit a piece of ID as security); they're very cursory, but you do get around the whole museum with some form of explanation.  Labelling of individual items is mostly in Spanish, though the general introduction to each room is accompanied by an English translation. 

## THE COLLECTION

A complete tour of the museum starts on the right-hand side with three **introductory rooms** giving an overview of indigenous culture, an introduction to anthropology and a history of the peopling of the Americas.  These rooms are followed on the right-hand side by halls devoted to the **Pre-Classic** , **Teotihuacán** and **Toltec** cultures.  At the far end is the vast **Mexica** (Aztec) room, followed around the left wing by **Oaxaca** (Mixtec and Zapotec), **Gulf of Mexico** (Olmec), **Maya** and the cultures of the **north** and **west**.  Every hall has at least one outstanding feature, but if you have limited time, the Aztec and the Maya rooms are the **highlights** ; what else you see might depend on what area of the country you plan to head on to.  The upper floor is given over to **ethnography collections** , which are devoted to the life and culture of the various indigenous groups today; stairs lead up from each side.  Downstairs, behind the hall given over to the cultures of the north and west, is a very welcome **restaurant**. 

### Pre-Classic

The **Pre-Classic** room covers the development of the first cultures in the Valley of México and surrounding highlands – pottery and clay figurines from these early agricultural communities predominate.  Notice especially the **small female figures** dated 1700–1300 BC from Tlatilco (a site in the suburbs), which are probably related to some form of fertility or harvest rites.  The influence of the growing Olmec culture begins to be seen in later artefacts, including the amazing **acrobat** vase, also from Tlatilco.  With the development of more formal religion, recognizable images of gods also appear: several of these, from Cuicuilco in the south of the city, depict **Huehueteotl** , the old god or god of fire, as an old man with flames on his back. 

### Teotihuacán

The next hall is devoted to **Teotihuacán** , the first great city in the Valley of México.  A growing sophistication is immediately apparent in the more elaborate nature of the pottery vessels and the use of new materials, shells, stone and jewels.  There's a full-scale reproduction of part of the **Temple of Quetzalcoatl** at Teotihuacán, brightly polychromatic as it would originally have been.  It contains the remains of nine sacrificial victims dressed as warriors, complete with their funerary necklaces: a relatively recent confirmation of human sacrifice and militarism at Teotihuacán.  Nearby is a reconstruction of the inside courtyard and central temple of an apartment complex bedecked in vibrant murals representing ritual life in the city, including _El Paraíso de Tlaloc_ , a depiction of the heaven reserved for warriors and ball-players who died in action. 

### Toltec

The **Toltec** room begins with reproductions of vibrant red and blue murals from Cacaxtla near Tlaxcala and then objects from Xochicalco, a city near modern Cuernavaca, which flourished between the fall of Teotihuacán and the heyday of Tula.  The large stone carvings and pottery show a distinct Maya influence: particularly lovely is the stylized stone **head of a macaw** , similar to ones found on Maya ball-courts in Honduras.  Highlights of the section devoted to Tula are the weighty stone carvings, including one of the Atlantean columns from the main temple there, representing a warrior.  Also of note are the **Chac-mool** , a reclining figure with a receptacle on his stomach in which sacrificial offerings were placed, and high up, above a large frieze, the **standard bearer** , a small human figure that acted as a flagpole when a standard was inserted into the hole between its clasped hands.  Overlooking some human remains, there's an exquisite little mother-of-pearl-encrusted sculpture of a **coyote's head** with teeth made of bone and a bearded man (possibly a warrior in a headdress) emerging from its mouth. 

### Mexica (Aztec)

Next comes the biggest and richest room of all, the **Mexica Gallery** , characterized by massive yet intricate stone sculpture, but also displaying pottery, small stone objects, even wooden musical instruments.  Facing you as you enter is the **Ocelotl-Cuauhxicalli** , a jaguar with a hollow in its back in which the hearts of human sacrifices were placed (it may have been the companion of the eagle in the Templo Mayor museum; the two were found very close to each other, though over eighty years apart).  Among the hundreds of other powerful pieces – most of the vast Aztec pantheon is represented – snakes, eagles and human hearts and skulls are prominent.  Among the statues is a vast image of **Coatlicue** , goddess of the earth, life and death, and mother of the gods.  She is shown with two serpents above her shoulders, representing the flow of blood; her necklace of hands and hearts and pendant of a skull represent life and death respectively; her dress is made of snakes; her feet are eagles' claws.  As a counterpoint to the viciousness of most of this, be sure to notice **Xochipilli** , the god of love, flowers, dance and poetry.  You'll come across him, wearing a mask and sitting cross-legged on a throne strewn with flowers and butterflies, in the section to the left of the entrance as you come in.  Also impressive is a reconstructed version of **Moctezuma's headdress** , resplendent in bright blue quetzal feathers, and a **gold bar** lost by one of Cortés' troops during their attempted escape on "Noche Triste". 

#### Piedra del Sol

The room's undoubted highlight, directly opposite the entrance, is the enormous 24-tonne **Piedra del Sol** , the Stone of the Sun or Aztec Calendar Stone.  The latter, popular name is not strictly accurate, for this is much more a vision of the Aztec cosmos, completed under Moctezuma only a few years before the Spanish arrived.  The stone was found by early colonists, and deliberately reburied for fear that it would spread unrest among the population.  After being dug up again in the Zócalo in 1790, it spent years propped up against the walls of the cathedral.  In the centre is the sun god and personification of the fifth sun, Tonatiuh, with a tongue in the form of a sacrificial knife and claws holding human hearts on each side, representing the need for human sacrifice to nourish the sun; around him are symbols for the four previous incarnations of the sun – a jaguar, wind, water and fiery rain; this whole central conglomeration forms the sign for the date on which the fifth world would end (as indeed, with the Spanish Conquest, it fairly accurately did).  Encircling all this are hieroglyphs representing the twenty days of the Aztec month and other symbols of cosmic importance, and the whole thing is surrounded by two serpents. 

### Oaxaca

Moving round to the third side of the museum, you reach the halls devoted to cultures based away from the highlands, starting, in the corner of the museum, with the **Zapotec** and **Mixtec** people of **Oaxaca**.  Although the two cultures evolved side by side, the Zapotecs flourished earlier (from around 900 BC to 800 AD) as accomplished architects with an advanced scientific knowledge, and also as makers of magnificent pottery with a pronounced Olmec influence.  From around 800 AD many of their sites were taken over by the Mixtecs, whose overriding talents were as craftsmen and artists, working in metal, precious stone and clay.  The best site in the country for both these cultures is Monte Albán. 

The Zapotec collection demonstrates a fine sense of movement in the human figures: a reproduction of part of the carved facade of the Temple of the Dancers at Monte Albán; a model of a temple with a parrot sitting in it (in the "Monte Albán II" section); vases and urns in the form of various gods; and a superb jade mask representing the bat god Piquete Ziña. 

### Gulf of Mexico

Next is the **Gulf of Mexico** room, in which are displayed some of the treasures of **Olmec** art as well as objects produced in this region during the Classic period.  The Olmec civilization is considered the mother culture of Mexico for its advanced development as early as 1500 BC, which provided much of the basis for the later Teotihuacán and Maya cultures.  Olmec figures are delightful, but have many puzzling aspects, in particular their apparently African features, nowhere better displayed than in some of the famed **colossal heads** dating from 1200–200 BC, long before Africa is supposed to have had any connection with the Americas.  Many of the smaller pieces show evidence of deliberate deformation of the skull and teeth.  The statue known as "the wrestler" (though labelled in Spanish only as " _hombre barbado_ "), with arms akimbo as if at the point of starting a bout, and the many tiny objects in jade and other polished stones are all outstanding.  The later cultures are substantially represented, with fine figures and excellent pottery above all.  The two most celebrated pieces are a statue of **Huehueteotl** (though labelled only as a " _dios viejo_ ") looking thoroughly grouchy with a brazier perched on his head, and the so-called **Huastec Adolescent** , a young Huastec Indian priest of Quetzalcoatl (perhaps the god himself) with an elaborately decorated naked body and a child on his back. 

### Maya

The hall devoted to the **Maya** is the most varied, reflecting the longest-lived and widest-spread of the Mesoamerican cultures.  In some ways it's a disappointment, since their greatest achievements were in architecture and in the decoration of their temples – many of which, unlike those of the Aztecs, are still standing – so that the objects here seem relatively unimpressive.  Nevertheless, there are reproductions of several buildings, or parts of them, friezes and columns taken from them and extensive collections of jewellery, pottery and minor sculpture.  Steps lead down into a section devoted to burial practices, including a reproduction of the Royal Tomb at **Palenque** with many of the objects found there – notably the prince's jade death mask. 

#### Temple of Paintings

Outside, a trio of small temples from relatively obscure sites is reproduced, the Temple of Paintings from **Bonampak** among them.  The three rooms of the temple are entirely covered in frescoes representing the coronation of a new prince, a great battle and the subsequent punishments and celebrations.  They are much easier to visit than the originals and in far better condition. 

### Northern and western societies

As a finale to the archeological collections on the ground floor, there's a large room devoted to the north and the west of the country. ** Northern** societies on the whole developed few large centres, remaining isolated nomadic or agricultural communities.  The small quantities of pottery, weapons and jewellery that have survived show a close affinity with native peoples of the southwestern USA.  The **west** was far more developed, but it, too, has left relatively few traces, and many of the best examples of **Tarascan culture** remain in Guadalajara.  Among the highlights here are some delightful small human and animal figurines in stone and clay, a Tarascan Chac-mool, a jade mask of Malinaltepec inlaid with a turquoise and red-shell mosaic, and a two-storey reconstruction of the houses at Paquimé in the Chihuahua desert. 

### The Ethnography Section

The **Ethnography Section** is on the upper floor.  You must cross the courtyard back towards the beginning of the museum before climbing the stairs – otherwise you'll go round in reverse order.  The rooms relate as closely as possible to those below them, showing the lifestyle of surviving indigenous groups today through photographs, models, maps and examples of local crafts.  Regional dress and reproductions of various types of huts and cabins form a major part of this inevitably rather sanitized look at the poorest (and most oppressed) people in Mexico, and there are also objects relating to their more important cults and ceremonies. 

FROM TOP QUETZALCOATL, MUSEO NACIONAL DE ANTROPOLOGÍA; "DREAM OF A SUNDAY AFTERNOON IN ALAMEDA PARK" IN THE MUSEO MURAL DIEGO RIVERA

< Back to Bosque de Chapultepec

## Museo de Arte Moderno

Permanent collection

Paseo de la Reforma, some 300m east of the Museo Nacional de Antropología • Tues–Sun 10.15am–5.30pm • M$25, free Sun

The **Museo de Arte Moderno** consists of two low circular buildings dedicated to twentieth-century Mexican and Latin American art.  The majority of the galleries, along with a separate gallery reached through the **sculpture garden** , are devoted to temporary and touring exhibitions, which are usually well worth inspection. 

### Permanent collection

The **permanent collection** is exhibited only in Sala D, which does not hold all of it, so the works are rotated regularly.  Among them, all the major Mexican artists of the twentieth century are represented.  Of works by Siqueiros, the most powerful is _Madre Campesina_ , in which a peasant woman carries her child barefoot through an unforgiving desert of cacti.  Diego Rivera's portrait of his second wife, Lupe Marín, was painted in 1938, long after their divorce.  The eponymous fruit-seller in Olga Costa's _Vendedora de Frutas_ is surrounded by bananas, sugar cane, watermelons, pumpkins, pawpaws, soursops and _mameyes_ , all painted in vibrant reds and yellows – about as Mexican a subject as you could want. 

#### Las Dos Fridas

The museum's star attraction must be Frida Kahlo's _Las Dos Fridas_ , which stands out even among the museum's fine representative selection of haunting and disturbing canvases by Kahlo.  One of her earliest full-scale paintings, it depicts her on the left in a white traditional dress, her heart torn and wounded, and her hand being held by a stronger Frida on the right, dressed in modern clothes and holding a locket with a picture of her husband Diego Rivera as a boy.  As the works are rotated, not all of these will necessarily be on display at any one time. 

< Back to Bosque de Chapultepec

## Museo Rufino Tamayo

Paseo de la Reforma • Tues–Sun 10am–6pm • M$25, free Sun •  museotamayo.org

Hidden among trees across the street from the Museum of Modern Art is the **Museo Rufino Tamayo** , another fine collection of modern art – this one with an international focus.  The modernist structure was built by the artist Rufino Tamayo, whose work in murals and on smaller projects was far more abstract and less political than the Big Three, though he was their approximate contemporary and enjoys a reasonable amount of international fame.  There is much of his own work here, and exhibits of his techniques and theories, but also a fairly impressive collection of European and American twentieth-century art – most of it from Tamayo's private collection.  Artists represented may include Picasso, Miró, Magritte, Francis Bacon and Henry Moore, though not all of these are on permanent display.  First-rate contemporary international exhibits usually find their way here and sometimes take over the space of parts of the permanent collection. 

< Back to Bosque de Chapultepec

## Segunda and Tercera secciónes and around

Segunda Sección

Panteón Civil de Dolores

Tercera Sección

Over the years, new sections of parkland have been added to the west of the original Bosque de Chapultepec.  These are occasionally still referred to as the **Nuevo Bosque de Chapultepec** , but are more commonly known as the **Segunda Sección** and **Tercera Sección**.  With very few places to cross the _periférico_ , it is difficult to reach the newer parts of the park from the old.  It is far better to make a separate visit to these sections, especially if you've got kids. 

### Segunda Sección

There are few compelling reasons to visit either section for adults, though the Second Section is an enjoyable area to stroll about, and a good deal quieter than the main section of the park.  Approaching the Second Section from Metro Constituyentes, follow Avenida Constituyentes west for a few metres and then cross it on a footbridge. 

#### Mexico en Miniatura

Just inside the Segunda Sección's main entrance on Constituyentes • Daily 10am–5pm • M$10

All that's now left of the rather tacky Mexico Magic fun park is **Mexico en Miniatura** , a collection of 150 models of "the most emblematic monuments of the republic" created by artist Pedro Ramírez Vásquez.  Sights represented here include all the famous pre-Hispanic ruins, plus colonial and modern attractions from around the country, including Mexico City's Zócalo, the Palacio de Bellas Artes and archeological sites from Teotihuacán to Chitchén Itzá. 

#### Papalote Museo del Niño

Constituyentes 268 • Mon–Wed & Fri 9am–6pm, Thurs 9am–11pm, Sat & Sun 10am–7pm • Museum M$120; cinema M$99; museum and cinema combination ticket M$175; music-and-visuals dome M$99; museum and music-and-visuals dome combination ticket M$175; museum, cinema and music-and-visuals dome combination ticket M$189 •  papalote.org.mx

If you turn right after coming in through the Segunda Sección's main entrance on Constituyentes, you'll come to the **Papalote Museo del Niño** , a kind of cross between an adventure playground and a science experiment, with loads of fascinating hands-on experiments, plus an IMAX cinema and a music-and-visuals dome.  Adults may feel as if they have entered some sort of psychotic kindergarten, but if you have kids, it will keep them entertained. 

#### La Feria

Tues–Sun 10am–8pm • Entry packages M$90–190; all packages include some but not all rides

 **La Feria** is the city's premier fun park.  Here you'll find assorted rides and sideshows, easily the best of which is the old-fashioned wooden roller coaster ( _montaña rusa_ ).  For adrenaline-fiends, there's also a newer and more exciting roller coaster, right by the entrance.  The cheaper entry packages mostly include children's rides (with 1.40m height restrictions), but fewer adult ones. 

#### Museo de Historia Natural and Cárcomo de Dolores

Tues–Sun 10am–5pm • M$45; free Tues; M$12.50 to bring in a camera

The **Museo de Historia Natural** consists of ten interconnecting domes filled with displays on nature and conservation, biology and geology, including rundowns on Mexico's mineral wealth, flora and fauna.  Modern and well presented – and with the obligatory dinosaurs – it is again particularly popular with children, but the educational value of the explanations will be lost if you don't speak Spanish. 

The ticket for the Museo de Historia Natural also entitles you to visit the **Cárcomo de Dolores** , near the Lago Menor lake, a gazebo containing two murals by Diego Rivera: _El Agua, Origen de la Vida_ and _El Fuente de Tlaloc_. 

### Panteón Civil de Dolores

On Constituyentes, between the second and third sections of Chapultepec Park • Daily 7am–5pm • Free • Pesero (route #24 to "Panteón Dolores") from Metro Chapultepec or along Av Constituyentes

The **Panteón Civil de Dolores** is a huge cemetery, Mexico City's answer to Père Lachaise or Highgate.  Among those buried here are Diego Rivera, José Clemente Orozco and other illustrious Mexicans.  There's an information office at the main gate (closed at weekends) where you can ask for directions to specific graves. 

### Tercera Sección

The **Tercera Sección** of Chapultepec Park lies 1km west of the Second Section, beyond the Panteón Civil de Dolores cemetery.  It formerly hosted a number of weekend amusement park-type attractions, but those are all now closed, and the space is now used mainly by joggers who live in the surrounding neighbourhoods. 

< Back to Bosque de Chapultepec

# SOUTH OF THE CENTRE

Getting to the southern suburbs

Insurgentes

San Ángel

Coyoacán

El Pedregal

Calzada de Tlalpan

Xochimilco

Mexico City spreads itself furthest to the south, where a series of old villages has been swallowed up by the urban sprawl.  These harbour some of the most enticing destinations outside the centre, including the colonial suburbs of **Coyoacán** and **San Ángel** , the archeological site of **Cuicuilco** and the canals of **Xochimilco**. 

# GETTING TO THE SOUTHERN SUBURBS

It's not at all difficult to get out to any of the sights outside the city centre on public transport, but getting from one to the other can be tricky if you're cutting across the main north–south routes.  In fact, there is easily enough to see out this way to justify a couple of separate trips, thereby avoiding the slightly complicated matter of traversing the area.  And while none of the connections you have to make is impossible, it's worth taking a few short taxi rides between them, from San Ángel to Coyoacán, for example, or from Coyoacán to Rivera's Anahuacalli Museum.  If you want to see as much as possible in a day or even an afternoon, you might consider hiring a taxi to take you round the lot; if you bargain, this may not be as expensive as it sounds. 

To San Ángel and the University City The best approach is along Insurgentes Sur, plied by the Metrobús.  There are also plenty of _peseros_ from the bus stands by Metro Chapultepec or Tasqueña for services along the Calzada de Tlalpan and to the southwest of the city, above all to Xochimilco.  If you'd rather stick to the Metro, take line 3 to Miguel Ángel de Quevedo, between San Ángel and Coyoacán. 

To Coyoacán If you don't fancy walking from San Ángel, buses head down Altavista by the _San Ángel Inn_ ; from the centre, buses leave from Metros Chapultepec, Insurgentes or Cuauhtémoc.  In each case look for "Coyoacán" or "Colonia del Valle/Coyoacán".  There's also a trolleybus which runs in both directions along Lázaro Cárdenas.  Metro line 3, too, passes close by, though note that Viveros station is considerably closer to the action than Coyoacán station: from Viveros, walk south on Av Universidad, then turn left (east) to reach the centre.  If you're coming straight from the centre of town down Cuauhtémoc or Lázaro Cárdenas, it makes sense to visit the Kahlo and Trotsky museums first, in which case you'll want to get off the bus immediately after passing under Av Río Churubusco.  The Metro stops are slightly more distant, but a good approach is to take line 2 to General Anaya and walk west past the Museo de las Intervenciones and the Trotsky and Frida Kahlo houses. 

< Back to South of the centre

## Insurgentes

Polyforum Siqueiros

Plaza México and around

Teatro de los Insurgentes

 **Insurgentes** , the most direct approach to the suburbs, is interesting in its own right: leaving behind the Glorieta de Insurgentes (the roundabout at Insurgentes Metro station), it runs almost perfectly straight all the way out to the university, lined the whole way with huge department stores and malls, cinemas, restaurants and office buildings.  A little under halfway to San Ángel, you pass on the right the enormous **World Trade Center** , crowned by _Bellini_ , an expensive revolving restaurant. 

### Polyforum Siqueiros

Insurgentes Sur 701 (cnr Filadelfia) • Daily 10am–6pm; sound-and-light show Sat & Sun noon & 2pm • M$15; sound-and-light show M$30 •  55 5536 4520 to 24,  polyforumsiqueiros.com.mx • Metrobús Poliforum

The exterior of the garish **Polyforum Siqueiros** is plastered in brash paintings by David Siqueiros and some thirty other artists.  Inside, it contains what is allegedly the world's largest mural (about 4500 square metres), painted by Siqueiros alone, entitled _La Marcha de la Humanidad en la Tierra y hacia el Cosmos_ ( _The March of Humanity on Earth and Towards the Cosmos_ ).  For the full impact of the changing perspectives and use of sculptural techniques, try to see the **sound-and-light show** with taped narration (in Spanish) by Siqueiros.  Elsewhere, the building houses visiting art exhibitions and a sizeable display of expensive crafts for sale. 

### Plaza México and around

Off Insurgentes to the west • Metro San Antonio or Metrobús Ciudad de los Deportes

 **Plaza México** is the largest bullring in the world, with a capacity of 48,000.  You can't actually see it from Insurgentes, but it's only a ten-minute walk along San Antonio.  Hard by is the **Estadio Azul** , a 65,000-seat football stadium that is Cruz Azul's home ground. 

### Teatro de los Insurgentes

Just before San Ángel • Metrobús Teatro Insurgentes

The facade of **Teatro de los Insurgentes** is covered in a huge mosaic designed by Diego Rivera depicting the history of Mexican theatre, and assorted historical figures.  At the top are the insurgents ( _los Insurgentes_ ) of Mexico's War of Independence: Hidalgo, Morelos and Benito Juárez on the left, and Zapata on the right. 

< Back to South of the centre

## San Ángel

Plaza San Jacinto

Museo del Carmen

Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo and the San Ángel Inn

The upmarket colonial suburb of **San Ángel** lies 12km southwest of central Mexico City, clustered around the point where Insurgentes Sur and Revolución almost meet, linked by the 200m-long Avenida La Paz.  With its markets, ancient mansions and high-priced shops – Cartier, Italian designer furniture and the like – around flower-draped patios, San Ángel is a very exclusive place to live.  It also makes an inviting place to visit, packed with little restaurants and cafés where you can sit outside and watch the crowds go by.  Whether you choose to visit on Saturday (market day) or one of the quieter days of the week, consider sticking around until evening to blow an appreciable wad of cash on some of the finest dining in the city. 

### Plaza San Jacinto

San Ángel is especially appealing on Saturdays when the delightful **Plaza San Jacinto** is taken over by **Bazar Sábado** , a lively outdoor art market.  Initially, the Saturday market was based in one of the mansions on the square, which still opens every weekend selling upmarket crafts and artworks, but nowadays there are stalls in all the surrounding streets, complete with fairground rides. 

# A WALK FROM SAN ÁNGEL TO COYOACÁN

The most enjoyable way to take in San Ángel and Coyoacán on the same day is to put an hour or so aside and **walk** between the two.  The most pleasant route (see map), through quiet streets past some of the city's prime real estate, starts at the main junction in the centre of San Ángel where Revolución passes the Museo del Carmen.  From here, follow La Paz northeast and cross Insurgentes to reach the **Jardín de la Bombilla** , a small park centred on a blockish concrete **monument** to General Alvaro Obregón, who was assassinated here in 1928, soon after being re-elected as president.  Revolutionary workers (holding a corn cob, oak leaves, a hammer and a sickle) flank the monument, and you can duck inside to see the bronze statue of Obregón. 

On the east side of the park, cross Chimalistac and walk through the tiny Plaza Frederico Gamboa, overlooked by the sixteenth-century **Capilla de San Sebastián Martir** , with a statue of the Virgin of Guadalupe above the door.  When you reach the other side of the square, take a left (you're now headed north) and cross Miguel Ángel de Quevedo, passing **Parque Tagle** on your left, then turn right into Arenal.  This leads you across Universidad to the **Capilla de San Antonio de Padua** , a little red chapel sited attractively next to a small stone bridge. 

Continue east on the peaceful, cobbled Francisco Sosa, one of the most beautiful streets in the city, and also one of the oldest.  Peer over the high walls lining the street to catch a glimpse of some gorgeous residences – the only way to get any closer to these houses is to visit the **Museo Nacional de la Acuarela** , Salvador Novo 88 (daily 10am–6pm; free;  acuarela.org.mx), a small museum inside one.  Devoted to watercolour painting, the collection includes some architectural and graphic art as well.  Look for work by early twentieth-century painter Saturnino Herrán, and don't miss the temporary exhibits in a separate gallery reached through a small sculpture garden. 

Ten minutes' walk further along Francisco Sosa brings you to the **Plaza Santa Catarina** , a tranquil square overlooked by a mustard-yellow church and with a couple of restaurants.  From here it is a short walk to Coyoacán's Plaza Central, reached through a twin-arched gateway. 

If you're still in a walking mood, you could continue along Avenida Hidalgo to the Museo Nacional de las Intervenciones and General Anaya metro station. 

#### Casa del Risco

Plaza San Jacinto 15 • Tues–Sun 10am–5pm • Free •  isidrofabela.com • Metrobús Dr Galvez

Plaza San Jacinto is surrounded by San Ángel's oldest mansions, notably the eighteenth-century **Casa del Risco** , housing a collection of mostly European antique furniture and paintings put together by twentieth-century diplomat Isidro Fabela.  There's an extraordinary fountain in the central patio made from seashells and old porcelain plates and cups, broken and whole. 

### Museo del Carmen

On Revolución just south of its junction with La Paz • Tues–Sun 10am–4.45pm • M$46, free Sun • Metrobús Dr Galvez

San Ángel takes its name from the former Carmelite Convent of San Angelo Mártir, which is now run as the **Museo del Carmen**.  Its three brightly coloured, tiled domes preside over this part of town and add the final touch of grace to what is a lovely example of early seventeenth-century architecture.  The church is still used but the rest of the convent has become a museum where just walking through the maze of monks' cells, rooms and courtyards is pleasurable enough, though there's also an extensive collection of colonial religious paintings and furniture.  Just about everyone wants to make their way to the crypt to see the dozen **mummies** , found here by troops during the Revolution and thought to be eighteenth-century nuns and monks, now displayed behind glass.  Elsewhere, check out the extensive displays on daily life in New Spain and a collection of eighteenth-century oils by Cristóbal de Vallalpando. 

### Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo and the San Ángel Inn

Diego Rivera 2 • Tues–Sun 10am–6pm • M$20, free Sun

From central San Ángel, it's just over half a kilometre along Altavista to the **Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo** , a pair of modernist houses built for Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo in 1931–32 by the leading contemporary architect, Juan O'Gorman.  Tucked behind an organ cactus fence opposite the prestigious _San Ángel Inn_ restaurant sits a small compound with a large maroon-coloured house (Diego's) and a much smaller blue abode (Frida's), connected by a rooftop causeway.  From 1933 to 1941 they both stayed here, living and working apart yet still near enough to visit each other and for Frida to deliver Diego's meals.  In both buildings the walls are concrete, the floors are wooden and many of the windows go from floor to ceiling – very advanced for the early 1930s and especially for Mexico.  Indeed, the whole set-up is in such contrast to the Blue House in Coyoacán that it is hard to imagine that the houses were inhabited by the same people. 

Diego's studio contains some of his painting materials, along with personal items, reproductions of some of his work and some large papier-mâché skeletons.  Temporary exhibits take up much of Frida's house, though there are a couple of fine portraits of her taken by photographer Nikolas Muray, with whom Frida had an affair in the late 1930s, and some of Frida's own _ex voto_ paintings of her debilitating accident. 

< Back to South of the centre

## Coyoacán

Plaza Central

Plaza la Conchita

Museo de Culturas Populares and around

Museo Frida Kahlo

Museo Casa de León Trotsky

Around 3km east of San Ángel lies **COYOACÁN** , another colonial township that has been absorbed by the city.  Even before the Conquest it was a sizeable place.  Originally the capital of a small lakeshore kingdom, it was subjugated by the Aztecs in the mid-fifteenth century.  Cortés based himself in Coyoacán during the siege of Tenochtitlán, and continued to live here while the old city was torn down and construction began on the capital of Nueva España.  The focus of the area is the spacious **Plaza Central** , but no visit to Coyoacán is complete without strolling out to the northern reaches of the suburb to the two main sights, the **Frida Kahlo** and **Leon Trotsky museums**. 

### Plaza Central

Coyoacán's **Plaza Central** is one of the city's main stomping grounds for artists, artisans and musicians.  It is actually made up of two adjoining plazas – **Plaza Hidalgo** and the **Jardín del Centenario**.  Bars and cafés ring the plaza, and on the south side of Plaza Hidalgo is the sixteenth-century **Church of San Juan**.  On Sunday, there's a market in the Plaza Central, and the area is taken up by stalls and various rock, folk and reggae bands.  It's far and away the most fun place in the city to buy your souvenirs (T-shirts make good buys here, some of them hand-painted), though a lot of things can be found cheaper elsewhere. 

#### Palacio Municipal

On the north side of Plaza Hidalgo • Palacio Municipal daily 9am–8pm; tourist office daily 9am–8pm •  55 5658 0221

The small **Palacio Municipal** (also known as the Casa de Cortés) is said to have been commissioned by Hernán Cortés himself.  Inside the _palacio_ are two **murals** by pupils of Rivera's – one by Aurora Reyes depicting the Conquest, and one by Diego Rosales showing the torture of Cuauhtémoc.  The latter is particularly apposite since it was in Coyoacán that the Aztec leader was tortured and finally killed.  The murals aren't usually open to the public, but if you ask at the **tourist office** in the same building they might let you take a peek at Reyes's mural, in the Sala de Cabildos, a municipal office.  The other mural is in the _capilla_ (registry office), which is generally only open if there's a wedding on – should you stumble upon one you can discreetly put your head round the door for a quick look. 

### Plaza la Conchita

Southeast of Coyoacán's main square, Calle Higuera leads down to the small but pretty Plaza la Conchita.  On the east side of the plaza, the **Capilla de la Concepción** still has traces of the original red paint on its facade, and is currently undergoing much-needed restoration work.  Overlooking the square from the other side, on the corner with Higuera, the distinctive red **Casa de la Malinche** at Vallarta 47 (not open to the public) is the house in which Hernán Cortés installed his Maya mistress – and where he allegedly later murdered his wife shortly after her arrival from Spain. 

### Museo de Culturas Populares and around

Av Hidalgo 289, just off Plaza Hidalgo • Tues–Thurs 10am–6pm, Fri–Sun 10am–8pm • M$11, free Sun

The **Museo de Culturas Populares** has colourful displays on popular cultural forms, mostly dolls, masks and costumes.  Avenida Hidalgo also leads to the Museo Nacional de las Intervenciones – to find it, continue down Avenida Hidalgo for about 300m, and bear left down General Anaya, which leads directly to the museum (crossing División del Norte on the way), a fifteen- to twenty-minute walk. 

### Museo Frida Kahlo

Londres 247, at Allende • Tues 10am–5.45pm, Wed 11am–5.45pm, Thurs–Sun 10am–5.45pm • Mon–Fri M$120, Sat & Sun M$140; ticket also valid for Museo Anahuacalli; audio guide M$35 •  museofridakahlo.org.mx • Metro Coyoacán

The **Museo Frida Kahlo** is just a few minutes' walk from the centre of Coyoacán.  The appropriately named Blue House was the Kahlos' family home and this is where Frida was born and spent most of her life, sporadically with husband Diego Rivera, who donated the house to the nation shortly after her death.  It was during Frida and Diego's tenure here in the late 1930s that they played host to the newly arrived **Leon Trotsky** and his wife.  Trotsky, ever fearful of assassins, apparently expressed his concern about the ease of access from a neighbouring property, and in a typically expansive gesture Diego simply bought the other house and combined the two.  Continually at the centre of the capital's leftist bohemian life, Diego and Frida hosted a coterie of artists and intellectuals at this house; D.H. Lawrence was a frequent visitor, though he had little political or artistic sympathy with Kahlo, let alone Trotsky. 

#### Galleries

Several rooms have been set aside as **galleries**.  The first features around twenty relatively minor (and less tortured) examples of Frida's work, from some of her early portraits through to her final work, _Viva la Vida_ , a still life of sliced watermelons.  She painted it in 1954, when the pain and trauma of her recent leg amputation had taken their toll on her painterly control, if not her spirit.  Look too for a beautiful charcoal self-portrait from 1932 and the more political _El Marxismo Dará la Salud a los Enfermos_ ( _Marxism Will Give Health to the Sick_ ) from 1954.  A room full of Frida's signature **tehuana dresses** leads to more paintings, including over a dozen by Rivera, such as _Paisaje de la Quebrada_ , which shows a rock face at Acapulco into which Diego painted his own face in purple.  Alongside are several works by Velasco and Orozco, as well as a Klee and a Tanguy. 

#### Interior and artefacts

Other sections of the house faithfully show the artesanía style that Frida favoured.  Witness the blue and yellow kitchen with "Diego" and "Frida" picked out in tiny ceramic mugs on the wall.  Its extraordinary decoration continues with bizarre papier-mâché animals and figures, and an impressive collection of _retablos_ around the stairway.  This leads up to Frida's airy studio where her wheelchair is artfully set next to an easel and, of course, a mirror.  Diego's influence in the house is seen more through his interest in Mexico's pre-Hispanic culture.  Artefacts are scattered throughout the house and a small collection is displayed in the courtyard on a two-step pyramid he had constructed there. 

### Museo Casa de León Trotsky

Río Churabasco 410 • Tues–Sun 10am–5pm • M$40, camera M$15 • Metro Coyoacán

Trotsky's House, or the **Museo Casa de León Trotsky** , where the genius of the Russian Revolution and organizer of the Red Army lived and worked, is about four blocks away and represents virtually the only memorial to Trotsky anywhere in the world.  After Lenin's death, Trotsky was forced into exile and condemned to death, and as increasing numbers of countries refused him asylum he sought refuge in Mexico in 1937, aided by Diego Rivera (at the time an ardent Trotskyite), who petitioned President Lázaro Cárdenas on his behalf.  Here Stalin's long arm finally caught up with him, despite the house being reinforced with steel gates and shutters, high walls and watchtowers.  Today the fortified building seems at first a little incongruous, surrounded by the bourgeois homes of a prosperous suburb, but inside it's a human place, set up as he left it, if rather dustier: books on the shelves, his glasses smashed on the desk and all the trappings of a fairly comfortable ordinary life – except for the bullet holes. 

< Back to South of the centre

## El Pedregal

Getting to El Pedregal

University City

Estadio Olímpico

Around 2km south of San Ángel, Insurgentes enters the great lava field of **El Pedregal** , which gets its name from the vast lava flow that spreads south of San Ángel through the University City and beyond.  Craggy and dramatic, it was regarded as a completely useless stretch of land, the haunt of bandits and brigands, until the early 1950s, when architect Luis Barragán began to build extraordinarily imaginative houses here, using the uneven lava as a feature.  Now it's filled with an amazing collection of luxury homes, though you'll unfortunately be able to see little of what is behind the high walls and security fences even if you drive around.  El Pedregal is also home to the **university campus** , the **Olympic Stadium** (Estadio Olímpico) and **Cuicuilco** , the oldest pyramid in central Mexico. 

# GETTING TO EL PEDREGAL

By bus/pesero/Metrobús Getting to the Pedregal area is easy, as it's reached from San Ángel by just about any bus or _pesero_ heading south along Insurgentes.  All stop outside the Olympic Stadium, right opposite the university library, and many (try those marked "Villa Olímpica", "Cuicuilco" and "Tlalpan") continue on to the pyramid at Cuicuilco, visible on the left just after you pass under the _periférico_.  Metrobús line 1 also plies the same route. 

By metro The university can also be reached on Metro line 3, but note that Copilco is the most convenient station, Universidad much less so as it brings you out at the back of the campus, from where you have to walk all the way through – past the _frontón_ courts and medical faculty – to reach the library. 

< Back to El Pedregal

### University City

To the east of Insurgentes is the **University City** (Ciudad Universitaria).  After over fifty years of use, the campus is beginning to show its age, and while it's no longer the avant-garde sensation it was when it opened, it remains a remarkable architectural achievement.  The whole thing was built in just five years (1950–55) during the presidency of Miguel Alemán, and is now one of the largest universities in the world, with some three hundred thousand students and staff.  It's also the oldest on the American continent: granted a charter by Philip II in 1551, the University of Mexico occupied a succession of sites in the city centre (including the Hospital de Jesús Nazareno and what is now the Escuela Nacional Preparatoria), was closed down several times in the nineteenth century and was finally awarded its status as the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México (UNAM) in 1929. 

# FRIDA KAHLO

Since the 1970s, **Frida Kahlo** (1907–54) has been considered Mexico's most internationally renowned artist, outshining even her husband, Diego Rivera, who recognized her as "the first woman in the history of art to treat, with absolute and uncompromising honesty, one might even say with impassive cruelty, those general and specific themes which exclusively affect women".  Julie Taymor's 2002 biopic _Frida_ , starring Salma Hayek, further consolidated her role as a **feminist icon**.  Her work is deeply personal, centred on her insecurities and her relations with her family, her country and her politics. " I paint myself," she said, "because I am so often alone, and because I am the subject I know best."  Her relatively short painting career was never prolific and the largest collection of her work is at the **Museo Dolores Olmedo Patiño**. 

## EARLY LIFE

The daughter of a _mestizo_ Mexican mother and Hungarian Jewish father, Frida was born in the Blue House in Coyoacán (now the **Museo Frida Kahlo**).  When she was 6, she battled a bout of polio that left her right leg withered.  She rebounded and, as a precocious 14-year-old at Mexico City's top school, first met **Diego Rivera** (twenty years her senior) who was painting a mural there.  She shocked her friends by declaring that she wished to conceive his child "just as soon as I convince him to cooperate", but they didn't meet again for many years. 

## MARRIAGE TO RIVERA

At 18, and already breaking free of the roles then ordained for women in Mexico, Frida had begun to pursue a career in medicine when she suffered a gruesome **accident**.  The bus she was riding in was struck by a tram, leaving her with multiple fractures and a pelvis skewered by a steel handrail.  It was during the months she spent bedridden, recovering, that she first took up a paintbrush.  Later in life, she reflected "I had two accidents in my life.  One was the bus, the other Diego."  After her recovery she fell in with a left-leaning bunch of artists, free-thinkers and Communists where she again met Rivera.  Within a year they were married: she a striking, slender woman of 21; he a massively overweight man twice her age with a frog-like face and an unparalleled reputation for womanizing.  Diego went about his affairs quite publicly (including briefly with Frida's sister, Cristina).  He was furious when Frida took up with other men, but her several affairs with women seemed to delight him.  After her death he wrote, "Too late now, I realized that the most wonderful part of my life had been my love for Frida." 

## ARTISTIC CAREER

Encouraged by Diego, Frida pursued her **painting** career.  Over half of her canvases are **self-portraits** : imbued with sophisticated personal symbolism, with themes of abortion, broken bones and betrayed love explored through the body set in an unlikely juxtaposition of elements. 

In 1932 Frida miscarried and was hospitalized in Detroit where she painted _Henry Ford Hospital_.  This disturbing depiction of her grief shows her naked body lying on a bed in an industrial wasteland, surrounded by a foetus, pelvic bones and surgical implements all umbilically tied back to her.  After returning to Mexico, her circle of friends expanded to include Trotsky (with whom she had a brief affair), Cuban Communist Julio Antonio Mella and muralist David Siqueiros (later implicated in an attempt to kill Trotsky).  By now Frida and Diego were living in paired houses in San Ángel, which allowed them to maintain relatively separate lives.  In 1939 they **divorced** , a devastating event Frida recorded in _Autoretrato con el Pelo Cortado_ ( _Self-Portrait with Cropped Hair_ ), in which her trademark long tresses and indigenous _tehuana_ dresses (both much loved by Diego) are replaced by Diego's oversized suit and cropped hair.  They **remarried** a year later, with Frida insisting on financial independence and a celibate relationship. 

The injuries from her accident dogged her throughout her life, and as her physical condition worsened she found solace in her work (as well as in drink and painkilling drugs), painting _La Columna Rota_ ( _The Broken Column_ ) in 1944, with her crushed spine depicted as an Ionic column.  Despite increasing commercial and critical success, Frida had only one **solo exhibition** of her work during her lifetime, in Mexico City just a year before she died.  In her later years she was wheelchair-bound, but continued the **political activism** she had always pursued, and died after defying medical advice and taking part in a demonstration against American intervention in Guatemala while she was convalescing from pneumonia in July 1954.  By this stage, she knew she was dying; defiantly, on her last work, she daubed the words "Viva la Vida" – "Long Live Life". 

#### The Library

Ciudad Universitaria • Daily 8.30am–9.30pm • Metro Copilco (south down Cerro del Agua from the station, bearing right after the campus entrance gate, and it's over to the left after 500m)

The campus is dominated by the astonishing, rectangular twelve-storey university **library** , each face of which is covered in a mosaic designed by **Juan O'Gorman** – mostly natural stone with a few tiles or glass to supply colours that would otherwise have been unavailable.  Representing the artist's vision of the country's progression through history, the focus of the larger north and south faces is on pre-Hispanic and colonial Mexico; on the west wall are the present and the university coat of arms; on the east, the future is ranged around a giant atom.  It's remarkable how these have been incorporated as an essential feature of the building – at first it appears that there are no windows at all, but look closely and you'll see that in fact they're an integral part of the design, appearing as eyes, mouths or as windows of the buildings in the mosaic. 

#### The rest of the campus

More or less opposite the library are the long, low **administration buildings** ( _rectoría_ ), with a **giant mural** in high relief by Siqueiros (or a "sculptural painting", as he called it), intended to provide a changing perspective as you walk past.  At the front of the _rectoría_ are the university theatre and the **Museo Universitario de Ciencias y Artes** (MUCA; Mon–Sat 10am–6pm; free), the latter a wide-ranging general collection, with interactive scientific exhibits, plus displays on contemporary art and culture.  Behind them spread out the enormous grounds of the main campus, starting with a large esplanade known as the Plaza Mayor, with sculptural groups dotted around a shallow artificial pond.  Towards the back of the _rectoría_ are more murals, adorning the **Faculties of Science and Medicine** ; continue past these to reach another grassy area with the **Botanical Gardens** and several large walls against which the students play _frontón_. 

# THE ASSASSINATION OF TROTSKY

The first attempt on Trotsky's life, in his house at Coyoacán, left more than seventy scars in the plaster of the bedroom walls.  At 4am on May 24, 1940, a heavily armed group led by painter David Siqueiros (who had been a commander in the Spanish Civil War and was working under the orders of the Stalinist Mexican Communist Party) overcame the guards and pumped more than two hundred shots into the house.  Trotsky, his wife and son survived only by hiding under their beds.  After this, the house, already heavily guarded, was further fortified.  Unknown to all, though, the eventual assassin had already inveigled his way into the household, posing as a businessman being converted to the cause.  Although he was never fully trusted, his arrival at the house on the afternoon of **August 20** , with an article that he wanted Trotsky to look over, seemed innocuous enough.  Trotsky invited him into the study and moments later the notorious **ice pick** (the blunt end), which had been concealed under the killer's coat, smashed into Trotsky's skull.  He died some 24 hours later, in the hospital after an operation failed to save his life.  The killer, who called himself Frank Jackson and claimed to be Belgian, served twenty years in jail, though he never explained his actions or even confessed to his true identity, **Jaime Ramón Mercader del Río**. 

### Estadio Olímpico

Directly across Insurgentes from the university library

The sculptured oval of the one-hundred-thousand-seat **Estadio Olímpico** was built in 1952.  Its main facade is decorated with a mosaic relief by Diego Rivera designed to represent the development of human potential through sport.  Most taxi drivers will tell you that the stadium was deliberately designed to look like a giant sombrero, but this, sadly, is not the case; it's undeniably odd, though, half sunk into the ground as if dropped here from a great height and slightly warped in the process. 

< Back to South of the centre

## Calzada de Tlalpan

Museo Nacional de las Intervenciones

Museo Diego Rivera Anahuacalli

Museo Dolores Olmedo Patiño

Along with Insurgentes, the other main approach to the south is the **Calzada de Tlalpan** , which runs south from the Zócalo more or less in parallel with Metro line 2 (initially underground, then running down the middle of the road) and subsequently the Tren Ligero, almost all the way to Xochimilco. 

The two train lines provide the easiest access to some fine museums – including Diego Rivera's Anahuacalli and the wonderful Museo Dolores Olmedo Patiño.  The Tren Ligero passes the giant **Estadio Azteca** football stadium on its way to the canals of Xochimilco, and Metro line 2 also provides alternative access to the eastern end of Coyoacán. 

### Museo Nacional de las Intervenciones

20 de Agosto and General Anaya • Tues–Sun 9am–6pm • M$46, free Sun • Metro General Anaya (exit to the west of the Calzada de Tlalpan and 5min walk along 20 de Agosto); for the Trotsky and Frida Kahlo museums, take General Anaya, cross División del Norte and go straight ahead for about 500m, by which time Anaya has merged into Hidalgo; for central Coyoacán, continue straight on (see map); for the Trotsky Museum, take a right down Morelos (not signposted) opposite Hidalgo 62

The **Museo Nacional de las Intervenciones** occupies the old Franciscan **Convento de Churubusco** , which owes its present incarnation to the 1847 battle in which the invading Americans, led by General Winfield Scott, defeated a Mexican force under General Anaya – another heroic Mexican effort in which the outnumbered defenders fought to their last bullet. 

The building itself is a stunner, especially if you arrive at the darkening of day as the lights are coming on in the gardens.  The exhibits, all on the upper floor, may not mean a great deal unless you have a reasonable grasp of Mexican history.  They're labelled only in Spanish – and not very fully at that – and are dedicated to the history of foreign military adventures in Mexico: skeletons in the cupboards of Britain, Spain, France and the US are all rattled loudly.  One section is devoted largely to the Mexican–American wars – with a very different perspective from that of the Alamo.  Much of what's on show, however, comprises paintings of generals and flags, and unless you're a history buff you might better spend your time in the pleasant surrounding gardens.  Apart from the Metro, the museum is also accessible by _pesero_ ("Gral Anaya") from Coyoacán: pick it up by the market at the junction of Allende and Xicoténcatl. 

### Museo Diego Rivera Anahuacalli

Museo 150 • Wed–Sun 11am–5pm; guided tours only, every 30min until 4.30pm, except on Fri, when the last is at 4.15pm • M$80 or free with ticket from Museo Frida Kahlo •  museoanahuacalli.org.mx • Tren Ligero Xotepingo; from the station, follow the signs to the Calle Museo exit, double back at the bottom of the steps and take the first left down Museo; after 100m, cross División del Norte, and it's about 500m ahead on your right

It's a ten-minute walk from the Tren Ligero station at Xotepingo to the bizarre **Museo Diego Rivera Anahuacalli** , designed and commissioned by Diego Rivera to house his huge collection of pre-Hispanic artefacts.  It's an extraordinary blockish structure, started in 1933 and worked on sporadically until Rivera's death, then finished off by Juan O'Gorman and opened in 1963.  Inspired by Maya and Aztec architecture, this sombre mass of black volcanic stone is approached through a courtyard reminiscent of a Maya ball-court.  The exquisite objects in the collection form part of a thoroughly imaginative exhibit: one small chamber contains nothing but a series of **Huehueteotls** , all squatting grumpily under the weight of their braziers, and the studio has ball-player and animal displays. 

The **ground floor** is devoted to objects from the main cultures of the Valley of México – Teotihuacán, Toltec and Aztec – which provided Rivera with an important part of his inspiration.  On the **middle floor** , rooms devoted to the west of Mexico (arguably the best such collection in the country) surround the huge airy space that Rivera planned to use as a studio.  It's been fitted out with portraits and sketches, including preliminary studies for _El Hombre en Control del Universo_ , his massive mural in the Palacio de Bellas Artes.  On the **top floor** are more Aztec objects, along with pottery and small figures from Oaxaca and the Gulf coast.  Up here you can also get out onto the **rooftop terrace** , from where there are magical views of Popocatépetl and Ixtaccíhuatl, both of which seem really close here, their snowy peaks glistening on less smoggy days. 

Walking through the dark recesses of the museum, note the ceilings, each with individual mosaic designs, and even the floor of the rooftop terrace, which is inlaid with snake, dog and frog forms, distinct but barely noticeable if you're not looking for them.  As you leave the main museum, you'll see a low building diagonally to the left, which houses temporary exhibitions and is worth a visit if only to get a sense of the underlying volcanic rock – part of El Pedregal – which was hewn away to provide building materials for the museum. 

### Museo Dolores Olmedo Patiño

Av México 5843 • Tues–Sun 10am–6pm • M$75, free Tues •  museodoloresolmedo.org.mx • Tren Ligero La Noria; from the station, go straight ahead from the exit and take the first left – the museum is a 2min walk on your left

Just round the corner from La Noria Tren Ligero station, the **Museo Dolores Olmedo Patiño** sits amid peaceful and beautifully tended grounds where peacocks strut, oblivious of the busy streets outside, and houses the largest private collection of Diego Rivera's work.  It's built into a seventeenth-century mansion, donated in 1994 by the elderly Dolores Olmedo, a wealthy collector and longtime friend and patron of Rivera's.  Over the years she amassed over 130 of his works, all of which are on display here.  They span his career, from his Cubist period in the early twentieth century through self-portraits (exhibiting varying degrees of flattery) to 25 sunsets painted in Acapulco from the balcony of his patron's house.  The collection is immensely varied, making this perhaps the best place to get a true sense of just how versatile a master he was.  Look particularly for three large and striking nudes from the early 1940s, and sketches for his famous paintings of calla lilies. 

Rivera's work is reason enough to come here, but the museum also has an outstanding collection of two dozen paintings by **Frida Kahlo**.  With the works arranged in approximate chronological order, it is easy to see her development as an artist, from the Riveraesque approach of early works such as 1929's _The Bus_ , to her infinitely more powerful self-portraits.  Many of her finest works are here, including _Henry Ford Hospital_ , _A Few Small Pricks_ , _La Columna Rota_ and _Autorretrato con Mono_ (Self-Portrait with Monkey), the latter featuring Mexico's most distinctive canine breed, the grey-skinned Xoloitzcuintle, of which Kahlo kept several as pets.  To see these hairless pre-Columbian dogs in the flesh, wander out into the garden where a few are still kept.  There's also a portrait of Kahlo by Rivera elsewhere in the museum, in a pastiche of her own style. 

Though easily overshadowed by the Rivera and Kahlo pieces, there is also a worthwhile collection of wood-block prints done by **Angelina Beloff** , Diego's first wife, featuring scenes from Mexico and her native Russia. 

< Back to South of the centre

## Xochimilco

Essentials

Tren Ligero Xochimilco

The **floating gardens** adjoining the suburb of **Xochimilco** offer an intense carnival atmosphere every weekend and are likely to be one of your most memorable experiences of the city.  Considerable effort has been expended in recent years to clean up the canals and maintain the water levels that had been dropping here, so Xochimilco ("place of the flower fields" in Náhuatl) looks set to remain the most popular Sunday outing for thousands of Mexicans.  It's also the one place where you get some feel for the ancient city and its waterborne commerce, thriving markets and dazzling colour – or at least an idealized view of it.  Rent any of the colourful boats and you'll be ferried around many kilometres of canals, continually harangued by women selling flowers, fruit and hot food from tiny canoes, or even by larger vessels bearing marimba players and entire mariachi bands who, for a small fee, will grapple alongside you and blast out a couple of numbers.  The floating gardens themselves are no more floating than the _Titanic_ : following the old Aztec methods of making the lake fertile, these _chinampas_ are formed by a raft of mud and reeds, firmly rooted to the bottom by the plants.  The scene now appears like a series of canals cut through dry land, but the area is still a very important gardening and flower-producing centre for the city.  If you wander the streets of Xochimilco town you'll find garden centres everywhere, with wonderful flowers and fruit in the **market** that enlivens the town centre for much of Saturday (though whether it's healthy to eat food raised on these dirty waters is open to question). 

Off the huge central plaza is the lovely sixteenth-century church of **San Bernardino** , full on Sundays with a succession of people paying homage and leaving offerings at one of its many chapels; in the plaza itself there are usually bands playing or mime artists entertaining the crowds. 

# ESSENTIALS: XOCHIMILCO

## GETTING THERE

For the easiest approach to Xochimilco, take the Metro to Tasqueña station (line 2) and the Tren Ligero (light rail, identifiable by a separate icon) from there to Xochimilco (end of the line); there are also buses and _peseros_ from Tasqueña as well as buses direct from the city centre, down Insurgentes and around the _periférico_ or straight down the Calzada de Tlalpan.  On Sun many extra services are laid on.  To get a boat, go straight ahead from the Tren Ligero station exit and follow the "embarcaderos" signs (about a 10min walk). 

## BOAT HIRE

 _CostLanchas_ (launches) currently cost M$350 for up to twenty people – the official price should be posted up at the _embarcadero_ (dock), and it's probably best to avoid _embarcaderos_ where it isn't.  There's a long tradition of milking tourists here, so be certain of what you've agreed on before parting with any money.  Remember that there are likely to be sundry extras, including the cold beers thoughtfully provided by the boatman, and any flowers, food or music you find yourself accepting on your way. 

Trips You'll be encouraged to go for two hours, but try to avoid paying upfront or you're likely to get only an hour and a half, which will include a visit to the garden centre of their choice.  The boatman won't like it, but you can always take your business elsewhere.  Also, be clear which boat you are getting or you are liable to be shuffled to an inferior and less attractive model. 

When to go You can rent a boat on any weekday for a little less-crowded cruising, but Sun is by far the most popular and animated day; Sat is lively, too, partly because of the produce market. 

< Back to South of the centre

# NORTH OF THE CENTRE

Plaza de las Tres Culturas

Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe

Museo de los Ferrocarrileros

Tenayuca

Santa Cecilia Acatitlán

Compared to the southern suburbs, the area north of the city centre has less to offer, but two sites of compelling interest – the emotive **Plaza de las Tres Culturas** and the great **Basílica de Guadalupe** – are worth an afternoon of your attention.  Further out, and harder to get to, you'll find the pyramids of **Tenayuca** and **Santa Cecilia Acatitlán** , the city's two most dramatically preserved remains of Aztec architecture (though strictly speaking outside of the Distrito Federal). 

## Plaza de las Tres Culturas

The ruins of Tlatelolco

Church of Santiago Tlatelolco

Eje Central trolleybus (get off at Flores Magón), or Metro Garibaldi (cross Reforma then 400m north up Lázaro Cárdenas), or take a northbound bus or _pesero_ along Reforma Norte to Glorieta Cuitlahuac

The **Plaza de las Tres Culturas** is the site of the ancient city of Tlatelolco, located to the north of Tenochtitlán.  Today, a lovely **colonial church** rises in the midst of the city's **excavated ruins** , exemplifying the second of the three cultures from which the plaza takes its name.  The **modern buildings** that surround it – mostly a rather ugly 1960s housing project but including the Ministry of Foreign Affairs – represent the third culture.  The area's most striking modern building, 1km west of the plaza at the junction of Flores Magón with Insurgentes Norte, is the triangular **Torre Insignia** , which dates from 1962. 

### The ruins of Tlatelolco

Daily 8am–6pm; guided tours Mon–Fri 9am–2pm, in English by arrangement in advance • Free •  55 5583 0295

The ancient ruins of **Tlatelolco** were once the core of a city considerably more ancient than Tenochtitlán, based on a separate but nearby island in the lake.  For a long time, its people existed under independent rule in close alliance with the Aztecs of Tenochtitlán, but it was by far the most important commercial and market centre in the valley; even after its annexation to the Aztec empire in 1473, Tlatelolco retained this role.  When **Cortés** and his troops arrived, they marvelled at the size and order of the Tlatelolco market.  Cortés himself estimated that some sixty thousand people – buyers and sellers – came and went each day, and Bernal Díaz wrote:

We were astounded at the great number of people and the quantities of merchandise, and at the orderliness and good arrangements that prevailed...every kind of goods was kept separate and had its fixed place marked for it...Some of the soldiers among us who had been in many parts of the world, in Constantinople, in Rome, and all over Italy, said that they had never seen a market so well laid out, so large, so orderly, and so full of people. 

In 1521 the besieged **Aztecs** made their final stand here, and a plaque in the middle of the plaza recalls that struggle: "On the 13th of August 1521", it reads, "defended by the heroic Cuauhtémoc, Tlatelolco fell under the power of Hernan Cortés.  It was neither a triumph nor a defeat, but the painful birth of the mixed race that is the Mexico of today."  The ruins are a pale reflection of the ancient city – the original temples, whose scale can be inferred from the size of the bases, rivalled those in Tenochtitlán.  The chief temple, for example, had reached its eleventh rebuilding by the time of the Conquest – what you see now corresponds to the second stage, and by the time nine more had been superimposed it would certainly have risen much higher than the church that was built from its stones.  On top was likely a double sanctuary similar to that on the Templo Mayor of Tenochtitlán.  The smaller structures include a square **tzompantli** , or wall of skulls, near which nearly two hundred human skulls were discovered, all with holes through the temples – presumably the result of having been displayed side by side on long poles around the sides of the building. 

### Church of Santiago Tlatelolco

Adjacent to the Tlatelolco ruins – though still in use and not considered part of them – is the **Church of Santiago Tlatelolco**.  Erected in 1609, it replaced an earlier Franciscan monastery, parts of which survive, arranged about the cloister.  In the early years after the Conquest, the friars established a college at which they instructed the sons of the Aztec nobility in European ways, teaching them Spanish, Latin and Christianity.  Bernardino de Sahagún was one of the teachers, and it was here that he wrote down many of the customs and traditions of the natives, compiling the most important existing record of daily Aztec life in his famous _Historia General de las Cosas de Nueva España_. 

# THE TLATELOLCO MASSACRE

The Mexican state showed its most brutal side in the Plaza de las Tres Culturas on October 2, 1968, when troops and tanks were **ordered to fire** on an almost 250,000-strong **student demonstration**.  It was the culmination of several months of student protests over the government's social and educational policies, which the authorities were determined to subdue, with only ten days left before the Olympic Games opened in the city.  Records of the death toll vary from an official figure at the time of thirty to student estimates of more than five hundred, but it seems clear today that hundreds is more accurate than tens.  Mexican philosopher Octavio Paz saw the violence as part of the cycle of history – a ritual slaughter to recall the Aztec sacrifices here – but it's perhaps better seen as an example of at least one thread of continuity between all Mexico's civilizations: the cheapness of life and the harsh brutality of their rulers.  Paco Ignacio Taibo II's book, _68_ , which is available in English translation, analyzes the incident in detail. 

< Back to North of the centre

## Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe

The main church

The church museum

Capillas on the hill

Half a kilometre east of Insurgentes on the Eje 5 Norte • Museum Tues–Sun 10am–6pm • M$10 • Metro La Villa Basilica; also accessible by bus or _pesero_ north along Reforma, or by trolleybus along Reforma from Metro Hidalgo (direction "Indios Verdes")

The **Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe** is in fact a whole series of churches, chapels and shrines set around an enormous stone-flagged **plaza** and climbing up the rocky hillock where the miracles that led to its foundation occurred.  It is Mexico's most important religious site, and is visited by millions of pilgrims from all across Latin America every year.  Indeed, its religious significance predates the arrival of Christianity, as it was previously a shrine to the Aztec mother goddess Tonantzin.  The first church here was built in 1533, but the large (and massively subsided) Baroque basilica you see straight ahead of you as you come through the main entrance to the plaza was completely reconstructed in the eighteenth century and again remodelled in the nineteenth and twentieth. 

Around the site, there swirls a stream of humanity – pilgrims, sightseers, priests and salesmen offering candles, souvenirs, pictures of the Virgin, snacks and any number of mementos.  On **December 12** , the anniversary of the second apparition, their numbers swell to hundreds of thousands (newspaper reports claim millions).  You'll see the pilgrims on the approach roads to the capital for several days beforehand, many covering the last kilometres on their knees in an act of penance or devotion.  For others, though, the day is more of a vast fiesta, with dancing, singing and drinking. 

### The main church

To the left of the great plaza as you come in from Calzada de Guadalupe is the modern home of Juan Diego's cloak with the image of the Virgin on it.  This huge, round modern **church** was built in 1976, with space inside for ten thousand worshippers and for around four times that when the great doors all round are thrown open to the crowds, as they are pretty much every Sunday.  You'll find it crowded whenever you visit, and there seems to be a service permanently in progress.  The famous **cloak** , framed in gold and silver, hangs above the main altar.  To prevent anyone lingering too long at the spot right underneath, you must board a travelling walkway and admire the image as you glide respectfully by. 

### The church museum

Around the back of the Baroque basilica, the **Museo de la Basílica de Guadalupe** contains a large collection of _ex voto_ offerings, and some of the church's religious art treasures, including a series of slightly insipid early eighteenth-century canvases by José de Ibarra and more powerful oils by Miguel Cabrera and Cristóbal de Villalpando. 

### Capillas on the hill

From the plaza you can walk round to the right and up the hill past a series of little chapels associated with the Virgin's appearance.  Loveliest is the **Capilla del Pocito** , in which there is a well said to have sprung forth during one of the apparitions.  Built in the eighteenth century, it consists of two linked elliptical chapels, one smaller and one larger, both with colourful tiled domes and magnificently decorated interiors.  On the very top of the hill, the **Capilla de las Rosas** marks the spot where the miraculous roses grew. 

< Back to North of the centre

## Museo de los Ferrocarrileros

Alberto Herrera • Daily 10am–5pm • Free • Metro La Villa Basilica

If heading to the Basilica from La Villa Basilica Metro station, train buffs will want to stop off first at the **Museo de los Ferrocarrileros** , a small railway museum in the former train station of La Villa, just outside the Metro station to the east of Calzada de Guadalupe.  Inside are exhibits in Spanish on the trade in _pulque_ (the station was on the Mexico City–Veracruz railway, an important route for transporting it), but of most interest are the old locomotives standing outside, which enthusiasts will definitely want to see, although you can't climb onto them. 

< Back to North of the centre

## Tenayuca

The site

Just off Av de los Cien Metros • Tues–Sun 10am–5pm • M$50, video permit M$45 • "Ruta 88" _pesero_ northbound from Metro Deportivo 18 de Marzo (5 blocks west of the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe) or La Raza (40min, but not all go to the _pirámide_ of Tenayuca, so check first) or "Tenayuca" _pesero_ northbound from Lázaro Cárdenas; some bus tours visit Tenayuca and Santa Cecilia on their way to Tula and Tepotzotlán

The 20m-high pyramid in the main square at **Tenayuca** , a suburb just outside the city limits, is another site that predates Tenochtitlán by a long chalk.  Indeed, there are those who claim it was the capital of the tribe that destroyed Tula.  In this, its history closely mirrors almost all other valley settlements: a barbarian tribe from the north invades, conquers all before it, settles in a city and becomes civilized, borrowing much of its culture from its predecessors, before being overcome by the next wave of migrants.  There's little evidence that Tenayuca ever controlled a large empire, but it was a powerful city and provides one of the most concrete links between the Toltecs and the Aztecs. 

# THE VIRGIN OF GUADALUPE

The **Virgin of Guadalupe** , Mexico's first indigenous saint, is still the nation's most popular – you'll see her image in churches throughout the country.  The Virgin's banner has been fought under by both sides of almost every conflict the nation has ever seen, most famously when Hidalgo seized on it as the flag of Mexican Independence.  According to the legend, an Aztec Christian convert, **Juan Diego** , was walking over the hill here (formerly dedicated to the Aztec earth goddess Tonantzin) on his way to the monastery at Tlatelolco one morning in December 1531, when he was stopped by a brilliant vision of the Virgin, who ordered him, in Náhuatl, to go to the bishop and tell him to build a church on the hill.  Bishop Juan de Zumarraga was unimpressed until, on December 12, the Virgin reappeared, ordering Diego to gather roses from the top of the hill and take them to the bishop.  Doing so, he bundled the flowers in his **cloak** , and when he opened it before the bishop he found the image of the dark-skinned Virgin imprinted into the cloth.  Today Diego's cloak hangs above the altar in the gigantic modern basilica, which takes its name from the celebrated (and equally swarthy) Virgin in the monastery of Guadalupe in Spain. 

### The site

The pyramid that survives dates from the period of Aztec dominance and is an almost perfect miniature replica of the great temples of Tlatelolco and Tenochtitlán.  Here the structure and the monumental double stairway are intact – only the twin sanctuaries at the top and the brightly painted decorations would be needed for it to open for sacrifices again tomorrow.  This is the sixth superimposition; five earlier pyramids (the first dating from the early thirteenth century) are contained within it and are revealed in places by excavations which took place in the 1920s.  Originally there was a seventh layer built on top, of which some traces remain. 

The most unusual and striking feature of Tenayuca's pyramid is the border of interlocking stone **snakes** that must originally have surrounded the entire building – well over a hundred of them survive.  Notice also the two coiled snakes (one a little way up the north face, the other at the foot of the south face) known as the "turquoise serpents".  Their crests are crowned with stars and aligned with the sun's position at the solstice. 

< Back to North of the centre

## Santa Cecilia Acatitlán

Tues–Sun 10am–5pm • M$60, video permit M$45 • _Pesero_ route #88, and also #79, continues from Tenayuca to Santa Cecilia Acatitlán; alternatively, it's a 20min walk, or short taxi ride, from Tenayuca, or a short ride on feeder bus #R10 from San Rafael station on the suburban train line from Buenavista; to return to the city, catch a _pesero_ to Metro Deportivo 18 de Marzo (lines 3 & 6)

The pyramid at **Santa Cecilia Acatitlán** is much smaller and simpler than that at Tenayuca, but it's been wholly restored and is remarkably beautiful with its clean lines.  When first encountered by the Spanish, this was a temple with a double staircase very similar to the others, but the outer structure was stripped away during excavation to reveal an earlier, well-preserved building inside.  It's a very plain structure, rising in four steps to a single-roofed shrine approached by a ramped stairway.  The studded decorations around the roof represent either skulls or stars.  You approach the pyramid through a small museum in a colonial house, whose displays of finds from the site and elsewhere include an Aztec incense burner and a reconstructed nineteenth-century kitchen; in the garden just outside, you are greeted by a large, inanely grinning stone skull. 

< Back to North of the centre

# ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE: MEXICO CITY

By plane

By bus

By train

Being dropped unprepared into the vastness of Mexico City may seem daunting, but it's not hard to get into the centre, or to a hotel, from any of the major points of arrival.  The only problem is likely to be hauling large items of luggage through the invariable crowds – take a cab if you are at all heavily laden, but make sure it's a prepaid "authorized" taxi. 

# AUTHORIZED TAXIS

The airport and all four bus terminals have a system of **authorized taxis** which **guarantee the clients' safety** , and all have booths selling rides inside the terminal buildings.  The authorized system is the same wherever it operates from – you'll find a large map of the city marked out in zones, with a standard, set fare for each; you pick where you're going, buy a ticket at the booth, then walk outside and present the ticket to one of the waiting cabs.  One ticket is good for up to four people to one destination.  The driver may drop you a block or two from your hotel rather than take a major detour through the one-way systems (best to accept this unless it's very late at night), and may occasionally demand a large tip, which you're in no way obliged to pay. 

## BY PLANE

Mexico City's airport (Terminal 1  55 2482 2424, Terminal 2  55 2598 7000,  aicm.com.mx) is surprisingly central, just 6km east of the Zócalo (if you're sitting on the left-hand side of the plane the views as you come in to land are amazing).  Most hotels are used to late arrivals, so don't be overly concerned if your flight gets in late at night, though it is wise to have somewhere booked in advance for your first night.  There are two terminals, on opposite sides of the airport, and quite a long way from each other by land; most airlines use Terminal 1, which is rather more convenient than the new Terminal 2. 

Facilities Wherever you come in, you'll find several ATMs and numerous _casas de cambio_ , open 24hr and with reasonable rates for US dollars (rates vary, so shop around), though not always such good rates for travellers' cheques or other currencies (they'll usually take Canadian dollars, pounds sterling, euros, and sometimes Swiss francs, Japanese yen and some Latin American currencies).  There are also plenty of pricey restaurants and snack bars, car rental agencies, a post office, internet cafés and 24hr left luggage lockers. 

Information There are several airport enquiry desks dotted around, and tourist information kiosks in Terminal 1, Sala A (daily 9am–6pm;  55 5786 9002), and Terminal 2 near exit gate 2 (daily 9am–9pm;  55 2598 3532), which are helpful but have a limited range of information, and only cover Mexico City. 

Transfers between terminals To get from one terminal to the other, there's a monorail service called Aerotrén (upstairs from Sala D in Terminal 1, upstairs in Sala M in Terminal 2), but only passengers with boarding passes are allowed to use this.  Otherwise there are red buses (daily 4am–1am; M$15) from exit gate 6 (Sala D) in Terminal 1 and exit gate 4 in Terminal 2. 

Taxis The only way to get into town is by prepaid authorized taxi, and there are desks for these in both terminals.  Prices vary slightly from firm to firm, so it's worth comparing rates before choosing; current rates are around M$290 to the Zócalo and Zona Rosa, M$270 to Condesa/Roma and M$319 to Polanco.  The authorized airport taxis have a monopoly on arrivals and it's illegal for regular taxi drivers to pick up passengers at the airport, so don't bother trying to flag one down.  Getting from town back to the airport is simpler.  Any taxi driver will make the trip, and you can expect to pay around M$100. 

Metro Metro Terminal Aérea, line 5, calls at Terminal 1.  Come out of the doors at the end of Sala A, then follow the covered walkway for 200m. Note that large bags are banned on the Metro.  From Terminal 2 (but not in the other direction), the inter-terminal bus stops at Hangares metro station, but in fact the nearest metro station is Pantitlan (out of the airport precincts and then take a left along the main road for 500m, or hop on a _pesero_ ), far more convenient than Hangares because it is on four different lines, but not a good area to be with your baggage at night. 

Metrobús Line 4 of the Metrobús, which takes two east–west routes through the city centre to TAPO, serves both airport terminals, charging M$30 for the journey, and without baggage restrictions.  At the airport you can pick it up from exit gate 6 (Sala D) in Terminal 1 and exit gate 4 in Terminal 2. 

Pesero The main road outside Terminal 2 can be reached by _peseros_ bound for Pantitlan from Rayón at Reforma (Metro Garibaldi, lines B & 8).  From the terminal, head out to the main road to pick up a _pesero_ to Metro Garibaldi. 

Intercity buses If you don't want to stop in Mexico City, there are first-class buses from the airport straight to Cuernavaca, Pachuca, Puebla, Toluca and Querétaro.  The bus stops are upstairs from Sala E1 in Terminal 1 and at exit gate 4 in Terminal 2. 

Car rental Desks are located in zones E1 and E2 of Terminal 1, and on the main concourse of Terminal 2.  The cheapest deals are with local firm Gold Car Rental (located in Terminal 1, zone E1,  55 2599 0090,  intgold@avantel.net).  International franchise chains represented at the airport include Avis ( 55 5762 3688 or  01 800 288 8888,  avis.com.mx), Budget ( 01 800 700 1700,  budget.com.mx), Europcar ( 55 5786 8264 or  800 201 2084,  europcar.com.mx), Hertz ( 01 800 709 5000,  avasa.com.mx), National ( 55 5703 2222 or  01 800 716 6625,  nationalcar.com.mx) and Sixt ( 55 5784 3011,  sixt.com.mx).  Rental cars are exempt from the Hoy No Circula one-day-a-week driving restriction.  For cheaper rentals head to Av Baja California, where Royal Rent a Car (C Medellín 350,  55 5574 4080,  royalrent.com.mx) and Eclipse (Baja California 111,  55 5564 6489,  eclipserent.com) have more competitive deals than the international companies. 

Airlines Aeromar, Reforma 505 (ground floor)  55 5256 0877 or  01 800 237 6627; Aeroméxico, Juárez 76,  55 5512 4000 or  01 800 021 4000; Air Canada, Manuel Avila Camacho 1 8°, Lomas de Chapultepec  55 9138 0280 or  800 719 2827; Delta, Masaryk 513, Polanco  55 5279 0909; Iberia, Ejercito Nacional 436 9°, Polanco  55 1101 1515; Lufthansa, Paseo de las Palmas 239, Lomas de Chapultepec  55 4738 6561; United, Andres Bello 45, Polanco  55 5283 5500 or  01 800 900 5000; VivaAerobus, Mesones 47 and other locations including Central de Autobuses del Norte  55 4777 5050. 

Destinations The further the destination is from Mexico City, the more sense it makes to fly there; you won't gain much flying to cities that are only a few hours away by road, and much more expensive by air, but if you're heading to places like Tijuana or Cancún, the plane will not only be faster, but much cheaper too.  Flights are likely to be cheapest if you can book them a few weeks ahead.  The following domestic airports are served by direct flights from Mexico City: Acapulco (6–10 daily; 55min); Aguascalientes (5–9 daily; 1hr 5min); Bajío/León (6–8 daily; 55min); Cabo San Lucas (4–7 daily; 2hr); Campeche (3–4 daily; 1hr 40min); Cancún (30–37 daily; 1hr 30min–2hr 10min); Chetumal (1–2 daily; 1hr 50min); Chihuahua (6–8 daily; 2hr 10min); Ciudad Carmen (3–6 daily; 1hr 30min); Ciudad Juárez (3–6 daily; 2hr 20min); Ciudad Obregón (2–3 daily; 2hr 25min); Ciudad Victoria (3–5 daily; 1hr 30min); Colima (2–5 daily; 1hr 25min); Cozumel (4 weekly; 2hr); Culiacán (10 daily; 2hr); Durango (3–4 daily; 1hr 40min); Guadalajara (26–33 daily; 1hr 10min); Hermosillo (7–9 daily; 2hr 40min); Huatulco (3–7 daily; 1hr 10min); Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo (4–7 daily; 1hr); La Paz, Baja California Sur (4 daily; 2hr 20min); Lázaro Cárdenas (1–2 daily; 1hr 15min); Los Mochis (1–2 daily; 2hr 15min); Manzanillo (4–6 daily; 1hr 40min); Matamoros (1–2 daily; 1hr 25min); Mazatlán (3–4 daily; 1hr 40min); Mérida (12–14 daily; 1hr 40min); Mexicali (2–3 daily; 3hr 35min); Monterrey (23–37 daily; 1hr 30min); Morelia (4–6 daily; 50min); Nuevo Laredo (1–3 daily; 1hr 40min); Oaxaca (7–10 daily; 1hr); Puerto Escondido (1–2 daily; 1hr 30min); Puerto Vallarta (6–10 daily; 1hr 30min); Reynosa (4–6 daily; 1hr 35min); Saltillo (2–7 daily; 2hr); San Luis Potosí (5–9 daily; 1hr 10min); Tampico (5–9 daily; 1hr); Tapachula (3 daily; 1hr 40min); Tepic (1–2 daily; 1hr 25min); Tijuana (12–15 daily; 3hr 35min); Torreón (4–5 daily; 1hr 40min); Tuxtla Gutiérrez (8–11 daily; 1hr 25min); Veracruz (6–12 daily; 50min); Villahermosa (5–12 daily; 1hr 20min); Zacatecas (3–4 daily; 1hr 20min). 

< Back to Arrival and departure

## BY BUS

There are four principal long-distance bus stations in Mexico City, one for each point of the compass, though in practice the northbound terminal handles far more than its share, while the westbound one is tiny.  All have Metro stations pretty much right outside, as well as authorized taxis. 

Destinations The list opposite indicates which destination is served from which station, but if you're uncertain which bus station you should be leaving from, any taxi driver should know which terminal to take you to.  The further a destination is from Mexico City, the more likely it is that the long and arduous bus ride will cost you more than the plane fare, so it's worth checking the price of a flight before you book that _camión_. 

Facilities The terminals have guarderías (left luggage offices, often expensive, especially at TAPO and Taxqueña), post and telephone offices, ATMs and a tourist information kiosk. 

Tickets It's rare not to be able to get onto a bus at short notice, but it can be worth booking in advance for long-distance journeys or for express services to popular destinations at busy times – that way you'll have a choice of seat and be sure of getting the fastest service.  Ticket Bus ( 55 5133 5133 or toll-free on  01 800 009 9090,  ticketbus.com.mx) – with offices at TAPO bus station (Tunnel 1), Isabel la Católica 83 in the centre, Hamburgo 254 (at Sevilla) in the Zona Rosa and Masaryk with Hegel in Polanco, among other places – can book tickets for a small fee with many but not all bus lines. 

#### TERMINAL DEL NORTE

From anywhere north of Mexico City, you'll probably arrive at the Terminal del Norte, Av de los Cien Metros 4907.  The largest of the city's four stations, it handles direct routes to and from the US border, and services to every major city north of Mexico City, including the fastest services to Guadalajara and Morelia.  There's a Metro station right outside the entrance (Metro Autobuses del Norte; line 5), and trolleybuses just outside, which head down the Eje Central (Lázaro Cárdenas) to Bellas Artes and on to the Central de Autobuses del Sur.  Alternatively, if you head four blocks east, you come to Insurgentes, where you can catch the Metrobús Line 1.  If you want to get a taxi, go to the kiosk selling tickets for authorized taxis, which cost about M$160 to the Zócalo and Alameda, M$120 to the Zona Rosa and M$200 to Polanco (all plus M$40 surcharge 10.30pm–6.30am).  If you arrive late at night and don't want to search for a hotel in town, there are places nearby. 

#### TERMINAL DE AUTOBUSES DE PASAJEROS DE ORIENTE (TAPO)

Buses from points east (including a number of places that you may think of as south, such as Chiapas or the Yucatán), will usually drop you at the Terminal de Autobuses de Pasajeros de Oriente, known as TAPO, which is located on Av Ignacio Zaragoza.  It has a Metro station (Metro San Lázaro; lines 1 and B) just down a connecting tunnel, which also leads you to the stops for city buses and _colectivos_ plying Zaragoza towards the Zócalo and the Alameda, as well as Metrobús line 4.  In the same tunnel, opposite the Metro entrance, is a sales desk for the authorized taxis, which cost M$150 to the Zócalo and Alameda, M$160 to the Zona Rosa and M$180 to Polanco (all plus M$20 10.30pm–6.30am). 

#### CENTRAL DE AUTOBUSES DEL SUR (TAXQUEÑA)

Buses from the Pacific coast (Cuernavaca, Taxco and Acapulco in particular) generally arrive at the Central de Autobuses del Sur (Tasqueña or Taxqeña), Av Tasqueña 1320, outside which is a big terminus for local buses and _peseros_ ( _combis_ ) to the centre and points south of town, and a Metro station (Metro Tasqueña; line 2).  To find the Metro, head right as you leave the terminal, and you'll see the sign.  Alternatively, to your left, on Av Tasqueña, trolleybuses head up the Eje Central (Lázaro Cárdenas) to Bellas Artes, and on to the Terminal del Norte.  Authorized taxis cost M$140 (M$180 9pm–6am) to the Zócalo, Alameda or Zona Rosa, and M$200 (M$240) to Polanco. 

#### TERMINAL PONIENTE (OBSERVATORIO)

Buses from places west of Mexico City, especially services passing through Toluca, but also Jalisco, Michoacán and the western part of the State of Mexico, terminate at the Terminal Poniente (Observatorio), at the junction of calles Sur and Tacubaya.  To get the Metro (Metro Observatorio; line 1), leave from the exit in the middle of the terminal, where it makes a bend (next to the authorized taxi kiosk), and the entrance is straight ahead, hidden behind the market stalls.  Authorized taxis cost M$120 to Polanco, M$140 to the Zona Rosa and M$150 to the Alameda and Zócalo (M$40 surcharge 9pm–6am).  Buses (signed "Metro Observatorio") head south on Reforma to the terminal, or pick up from the stands by the entrance to Chapultepec Park. 

#### OTHER STOPS

Apart from the major terminals listed above, there are large open-air bus stops at the end of all the Metro lines such as Indios Verdes (line 3) or El Rosario (lines 6 and 7), with slow services to places up to an hour or so outside the city limits.  For destinations in the capital's hinterland it can sometimes be quicker to leave from these.  Obviously, the best way into town from these places is by Metro. 

#### DESTINATIONS

(N = Terminal del Norte; S = Central de Autobuses del Sur/Taxqueña; E = TAPO; W = Terminal Pte/Observatorio) Acapulco (S, 55 daily; 6hr); Aguascalientes (N, 29 daily; 6hr); Amecameca (E, every 15min; 1hr 15min); Campeche (E, 7 daily; 17hr); Cancún (E, 7 daily; 24hr); Chalma (W, every 20min; 2hr 30min); Chetumal (E, 2 daily; 18hr); Chihuahua (N, 22 daily; 18hr); Chilpancingo (S, 28 daily; 3hr 30min); Ciudad Juárez (N, 16 daily; 24hr); Ciudad Obregón (N, at least hourly; 26hr); Colima (N, 6 daily; 11hr); Córdoba (E, at least hourly, more at weekends; 4hr); Cuautla (S, every 10min; 2hr; E, every 10min; 3hr); Cuernavaca (S, every 15min; 1hr 30min); Dolores Hidalgo (N, every 40min; 4hr); Durango (N, 9 daily; 12hr); Guadalajara (N, hourly; 6hr; W, 14 daily; 7hr); Guanajuato (N, 11 daily; 5hr); Guaymas (N, 12 daily; 27hr); Hermosillo (N, hourly; 32hr); Ixtapa (S, 5 daily; 10hr); Ixtapan de la Sal (W, hourly; 2hr); León (N, 1–2 hourly; 5hr); Los Mochis (N, at least hourly; 21hr); Malinalco (W, 2 daily 10am & 3pm; 2hr 30min, or via Chalma); Manzanillo (N, 4 daily; 12hr); Matamoros (N, 10 daily; 14hr); Matehuala (N, 13 daily; 7hr); Mazatlán (N, hourly; 15hr); Mérida (E, 5 daily; 28hr); Mexicali (N, 22 daily; 30hr); Monterrey (N, 17 daily; 12hr); Morelia (W, every 30min; N, hourly; 4hr 30min); Nuevo Laredo (N, hourly; 15hr); Oaxaca (E, 22 daily; 6hr); Orizaba (E, at least hourly, more at weekends; 4hr); Pachuca (N, every 10min; 2hr); Palenque (E, 1 daily; 13hr); Pátzcuaro (W, 10 daily; N, 8 daily; 7hr); Playa del Carmen (E, 4 daily; 22hr); Puebla (E, every 20min; N, hourly; 2hr); Puerto Escondido (S, 6 daily; E, 1 daily; 15hr); Puerto Vallarta (N, 7 daily; 12hr); Querétaro (N, every 15min; 2hr 40min); Saltillo (N, 10 daily; 10hr); San Cristóbal de las Casas (E, 8 daily; 17hr); San Luis Potosí (N, hourly; 5hr); San Miguel Allende (N, every 40min; 4hr); Taxco (S, 13 daily; 2hr 30min); Tehuacán (E, hourly; 4hr); Tehuantepec (E, 6 daily; 10hr); Teotihuácan (N, every 15min; 1hr); Tepic (N, hourly; 12hr); Tepoztlán (S, every 40min; 1hr 15min); Tijuana (N, hourly; 42hr); Tlaxcala (E, every 20min; 1hr 40min); Toluca (W, every 5min; 1hr 30min); Tula (N, every 40min; 1hr 30min); Tuxpan (N, hourly; 4hr); Tuxtla Gutiérrez (E, 14 daily; 14hr); Uruapan (W, 16 daily; N, 8 daily; 6hr 30min); Valle de Bravo (W, every 20min; 3hr); Veracruz (E, at least hourly, more at weekends; 7hr); Villahermosa (E, 20 daily; 11hr); Xalapa (E, at least hourly; 5hr); Zacatecas (N, 14 daily; 8hr). 

< Back to Arrival and departure

## BY TRAIN

Following privatization, intercity passenger train services ceased to run, and the only service now running out of Buenavista station (on Mosqueta by Insurgentes Nte; metro or metrobús Buenavista) is a suburban train ( fsuburbanos.com) to Cuautitlán in México state. 

< Back to Arrival and departure

# GETTING AROUND

By metro

By Tren Ligero

By bus

By trolleybus

By metrobús

By pesero

By taxi

By car

By bicycle

For all its size and frantic pace, once you're used to the city, it is surprisingly easy to get around, with an efficient and very cheap public transport system as well as reasonably priced taxis.  You'll probably want to **walk** around the cramped streets of the centre, but remember the altitude – walking gets tiring quickly, especially for the first day or so.  If you're heading for Chapultepec or the Zona Rosa, you're better off taking the **bus** or **Metro** – it's an interesting walk all the way down Reforma, but a very long one.  As for the outer suburbs, you've got no choice but to rely on public transport.  You'll save a lot of hassle if you avoid travelling during **rush hour** (about 7–9am & 6–8pm). 

## BY METRO

Mexico City's Metro system ( 55 5709 1133 ext 5051 or 5009,  www.metro.df.gob.mx) is French-built, fast, quiet and efficient, though in some respects not tremendously well designed: interchanges can be very long, and the system seems to be configured so that journeys often require two legs.  It can also get pretty crowded, and at peak hours stations designate separate entries for women and children (look for the "Mujeres" signs), who have exclusive use of the front two cars. 

Tickets Tickets cost M$3 and are sold individually.  There's no discount for bulk purchases, though to save time queuing and messing about with tiny quantities of change it makes sense to buy several at a time. 

Luggage In theory you're not allowed luggage of any size on the Metro (the official limit is 80cm x 50cm x 30cm), but in practice you can get away with carrying a big bag if you board at a quiet station at a calm time, and these days even a backpack seems to be tolerated at busy times.  The first train leaves from each end of the line at 5am on weekdays (6am Sat and 7am Sun), with the last train at midnight. 

Orientation There aren't always maps of the system on platforms, and certainly not on the trains, where you'll just find pictographic representations of the line you are on, along with the stations where you can transfer to other lines.  The map opposite details the system, but it's wise to work out before you set off which way you'll be travelling on each line, and where to change.  Direction is indicated by the last station at either end of the line (thus on line 2 you'll want either "Dirección Cuatro Caminos" or "Dirección Tasqueña").  To find your connection at interchange stations, follow the "Correspondencia" signs. 

< Back to Getting around

## BY TREN LIGERO

Tren Ligero (light rail) runs south from Tasqueña (the southern terminus of line 2) as far as Xochimilco, entirely above ground.  It requires a different ticket from the Metro system – when you change at Tasqueña you'll need to buy a Tren Ligero ticket (good for any one-way journey) from the ticket window or the machines on the concourse (M$5). 

< Back to Getting around

## BY BUS

Buses in Mexico City are very efficient, if you know where you're going.  Fares are M$3–6, depending on the route and the length of your journey.  Destinations are displayed in the front window, which is somewhat more helpful than looking for route numbers, since the latter are not posted up and rarely used, and some buses terminate before the end of the route.  One of the most useful routes is along Reforma, and the area just by Chapultepec Metro station at the entrance to the park is also a major bus terminus, from where you can get to almost any part of the city.  Note that during rush hour it can be almost impossible to get a bus: once they're full, they simply don't stop to let passengers on.  In 2008, the city government introduced pink buses for women only, mostly to tackle the problem of groping on public transport; the women-only buses are easily recognizable from their colour, and say "Servicio Exclusivo Mujeres" on the front, but most women of course just take whatever bus turns up first. 

< Back to Getting around

## BY TROLLEYBUS

There are also trolleybuses running in both directions along Lázaro Cárdenas (the "Eje Central", or Central Axis) between Terminal del Norte and Central del Sur (Tasqueña), as well as on some other major routes.  There's a flat fare of M$4, and they don't give change. 

< Back to Getting around

## BY METROBÚS

On four routes, there is a service called Metrobús ( metrobus.df.gob.mx), an articulated bus with its own dedicated lane, and fancy bus stops that look more like stations.  The most useful route is line 1, which plies Insurgentes from pretty much one end to the other.  Also useful is line 4, which runs east–west and serves the airport.  Except for the airport service (which costs M$30), there's a flat fare of M$5, but in order to use the metrobús, you have to buy a card (M$15 including one journey) from a machine at one of the stations on lines 1, 2 or 3.  You charge up the card with credit at the same machines.  Stations on line 4 don't have machines, but there should be attendants on hand who will sell you a card.  You can also obtain and charge cards in branches of 7-Eleven or the similar chain Extra.  The system is rather inconvenient if you just want to take the odd journey (especially as the machines don't give change, like rejecting coins and often have a queue, and credit has been known to mysteriously vanish from the cards), but there's no other way to pay the fare. 

< Back to Getting around

## BY PESERO

Running down the major through routes, especially on Reforma and Insurgentes, you'll find _peseros_ ( _colectivos_ ), which are smaller and faster but charge more than the bus (if less than a regular taxi) and will let you on and off anywhere along their set route.  They're mostly thirty-seater buses or VW vans, usually green with a white roof, and with their destination displayed on the windscreen – drivers of the smaller vehicles may sometimes hold up a number of fingers to indicate how many free seats they have.  Like buses, _peseros_ have route numbers, but routes often have branches, and a vehicle may start or finish in the middle of a route rather than at the end, so again it's more helpful to check the destination in the window.  One of the most useful routes runs from Chapultepec Park via Av Chapultepec to the Zócalo. 

< Back to Getting around

## BY TAXI

Ordinary taxis (usually red and gold) come in a variety of forms (some are still VW beetles, though these are fast disappearing) and there have been robberies at the hands of the drivers, so you should think twice before taking one, especially if you are on your own.  If you do decide to, it's best to take one from a taxi rank ( _sitio_ ) rather than hail one in the street.  From the airport or bus terminals, always use a prepaid authorized taxi, and never go with a driver who accosts you on arrival with the offer of a cab.  Legitimate taxis other than authorized prepaid ones should have a meter – make sure it's switched on.  Red-and-white radio taxis, which you have to call by phone, charge slightly more, but in general work the same way. _ Taxis de turismo_ lie in wait outside hotels and charge rates at least triple those of ordinary taxis; in the normal course of events you should avoid them, but they do have a couple of advantages, namely that the drivers know the tourist sights, and should speak English – they can be worth it if, for example, you want to go on a tour for a few hours, in which case, with some ferocious haggling, you might even get a bargain.  If you need to phone a taxi, try Servitaxis ( 55 5272 1123) or Taxi-Mex ( 55 5634 9912) or, to the airport, one of the firms listed on.  It can be difficult to get a taxi in the rush hour. 

< Back to Getting around

## BY CAR

Rental cars are available from the airport and elsewhere, but it is generally better to wait until you are ready to leave the city before renting.  There are thousands of agencies throughout the city, and the small local operations are often cheaper than the big chains.  Either way, renting a car isn't going to be cheap, and a car can be a liability while you're in the city.  Expect to pay M$400–800 a day for the cheapest car with tax, insurance and unlimited mileage, more in July and Aug; the usual deal for a week is that you pay for six days and get the seventh free.  The major operators have offices at the airport and in the Zona Rosa, and some of the smaller companies do too. 

If you already have a car, choose a hotel with secure parking and leave it there for the duration of your stay, except possibly to do a tour of the south of the city.  Driving in the city is a nightmare, compounded by confusing one-way and through-route systems and by the near-impossibility of finding anywhere to park.  Also note that the "Green Angels" who operate on highways do not operate within Mexico City. 

< Back to Getting around

## BY BICYCLE

On Sun mornings, many streets in the city centre are closed to motorized traffic so that cyclists have exclusive use of the roadways. 

< Back to Getting around

# INFORMATION AND TOURS

Tourist offices

City tours

## TOURIST OFFICES

Mexico City tourist office The DF government's tourist authority maintains a useful website ( www.mexicocity.gob.mx), in Spanish and English, with excellent background information, advice, tips and patchy listings, and you can call them on  55 5212 0259, or toll-free from outside the city on  800 008 9090.  They also maintain tourist information booths at the airport, at all four bus terminals, and dotted around town.  None have much printed material to take away, but the staff are usually very helpful and well versed in the ways of the city.  The most central is in the Zócalo between the cathedral and Monte de Piedad (daily 9am–6pm;  55 5518 1003; Metro Zócalo). 

SECTUR The Mexico City branch of SECTUR (Mexican federal government's tourist office) is at Presidente Mazaryk 172, Polanco (Mon–Fri 8am–6pm; call 24hr on  55 3002 6300 or  078; Metro Polanco).  It's flush with handouts about Mexico City and the country as a whole, but inconveniently sited a long way from where you're likely to be spending your time. 

< Back to Information and tours

## CITY TOURS

Sightseeing tours that take in the city and often include the surrounding area are available from most of the more expensive hotels, while the DF government runs an hour-long city-centre tour on buses in the style of old trams leaving from Juárez by Bellas Artes (Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 2–5pm; M$50), though the commentary is in Spanish only. 

Turibus  55 5141 1360 ext 2000,  turibus.com.mx.  One of the best independent tour operators, running open-top double-deckers on two routes: a northern route taking in the city centre, and a southern route that heads down Insurgentes Sur to Coyoacán and the University.  You can get on and off the bus at any stage en route; stops for the northern route include the Zócalo (República de Brasil, on the west side of the cathedral), the Benito Juárez Monument on the south side of the Alameda and El Ángel on Reforma; at Las Cibeles (Plaza Madrid) in Roma, you can change from the northern to the southern route.  Both run daily (every 30–40min, 9am–9pm) and tickets cost M$140 weekdays, M$165 weekends (M$210/245 for a two-day ticket).  Each circuit takes around 3hr, and the commentary comes in a choice of languages including English. 

< Back to Information and tours

# ACCOMMODATION

Hotels

Hostels

 **Accommodation** in Mexico City ranges from budget **hostels** to some of the swankiest **hotels** in the country, but the best-value places can fill up quickly, so **booking ahead** is always a good idea.  Most places have 24hr reception desks and are geared for late arrivals and early departures, and, with reasonably cheap taxi fares into the Zócalo or Zona Rosa, it seldom makes financial sense to stay near the bus stations or airport.  However, if you arrive especially late or are just in transit and need a place to rest up for a while, there are places to stay that are very handy for the **airport** and **Terminal del Norte**. 

## HOTELS

#### AROUND THE ZÓCALO

Azores Brasil 25  55 5521 5220,  hotelazores.com; Metro Allende or Zócalo; map.  Well-situated modern hotel with small but clean and comfy rooms around a central atrium, each en suite and with TV, though only one room on each floor has an outside window.  M$420

Catedral Donceles 95  55 5518 5232, toll-free from US or Canada  1 866 291 2312,  hotelcatedral.com; Metro Zócalo; map.  Very presentable mid-range place.  All rooms have TV and telephone, and some even have a jacuzzi.  Internet access is available, and there's a good restaurant and a terrace overlooking the cathedral.  M$875

 Gillow Isabel la Católica 17  55 5518 1440,  hotelgillow.com; Metro Allende; map.  Friendly and good-value mid-priced hotel with carpeted rooms, in-house travel agency and leather sofas in the public areas.  Cable TV, wi-fi and the expected amenities in rooms (it's worth paying a little extra for a larger room with a small patio or seating area).  Ten percent discount for cash payment.  M$820

Gran Hotel Ciudad de México 16 de Septiembre 82  55 1083 7700,  granhoteldelaciudaddemexico.com.mx; Metro Zócalo; map.  The city's most famous hotel, situated right on the Zócalo with sumptuous public areas, and a selection of rooms and suites, some of which are gorgeously deluxe.  Breakfast included and does significant discounts if you book in advance, particularly via the website.  M$3770

Isabel Isabel la Católica 63  55 5518 1213 to 7,  hotel-isabel.com.mx; Metro Isabel la Católica; map.  Good-value hotel offering services such as taxis and laundry, plus a restaurant and bar.  Rooms (with or without bathroom, the latter on the roof), though a little bit sombre, are quite spacious with TV and safe.  Rooms at the back are quieter.  It's worth booking a few days ahead.  M$350

Juárez Callejón de 5 de Mayo 17 1°  55 5512 6929,  hoteljuarez@prodigy.net.mx; Metro Allende or Zócalo; map.  Very central, clean and good-value budget tourist hotel, but not recommended for lone women travellers.  Avoid room no.  4, which is next to the hotel's main water pump.  M$270

Majestic Madero 73  55 5521 8600,  hotelmajestic.com.mx.  Metro Zócalo; map.  This luxury Best Western hotel on the Zócalo is rather stately and has bags of character.  It's considerably cheaper than many of the places in the Zona Rosa and has many of the same facilities.  Some rooms have Zócalo views, as does the _La Terraza_ restaurant on the top floor.  Breakfast included.  M$1620

Montecarlo Uruguay 69  55 5518 1418; Metro Zócalo; map.  Good-value cheapie with a touch of faded glory, and once briefly inhabited by D.H. Lawrence.  Quiet and comfortable with a garage and a beautiful inner courtyard that is a little out of keeping with the rather small and dark en-suite rooms.  M$350

República Cuba 57  55 5512 9517; Metro Allende; map.  Old and fairly dingy but also very cheap hotel (especially for two people sharing a double bed) on a quiet street.  All rooms are en suite and some have TV.  M$170

San Antonio Callejón de 5 de Mayo 29 2°  55 5518 1625; Metro Allende or Zócalo; map.  Quiet, friendly place hidden away in a side street between 5 de Mayo and La Palma.  Standards are high considering the price, with light, airy, spotless rooms, good firm beds, decent sheets and free bottled water.  It's worth paying the M$30 difference for an en suite.  M$350

Washington 5 de Mayo 54 &  55 5512 3502; Metro Allende or Zócalo; map.  Good-value hotel very near the Zócalo.  The cheapest rooms are pretty poky, but they're all decent, and come with a nicely tiled bathroom, cable TV, phone and wi-fi.  It's worth asking for a corner room, which is bigger and better, with outside windows, for only M$20 more.  M$380

Zamora 5 de Mayo 50  55 5512 8245,  hotelzamora1@gmail.com; Metro Allende or Zócalo; map.  One of the more basic downtown hotels.  The low prices, excellent location, free wi-fi and friendly management make the occasional noise, threadbare towels and variable cleanliness acceptable.  You'll pay M$50 extra for a private bathroom.  It's very popular so you may have to book ahead at busy times.  M$180

#### AROUND THE ALAMEDA

Fleming Revillagigedo 35  55 5510 4530,  hotelfleming.com.mx; Metro Juárez; map.  A charcoal, grey cube on the outside, with salmon-pink, carpeted rooms on the inside: the decor at this business-style hotel is a little bit stuck in the 1980s, but it's comfortable enough and there's room service, wi-fi and a bar and restaurant.  M$525

 Hotel de Cortés Hidalgo 85  55 5518 2181,  boutiquehoteldecortes.com; Metro Hidalgo; map.  Very classy boutique hotel in a building dating from 1620, but with rooms that are super-modern and stylish, with wooden deck floors throughout (even in the shower).  The hotel also has a spa and fitness centre, a Spanish–Mexican restaurant, two bars and free wi-fi.  M$2150

Managua Plaza de San Fernando 11  55 5512 1312; Metro Hidalgo; map.  Good-value if functional place with a cafeteria that does room service, and rooms with TV, bathroom and free bottled water, all in a quiet location facing the Jardín de San Fernando.  M$200

Pánuco Ayuntamiento 148  55 5521 2916; Metro Juárez; map.  Clean and good value.  Located in a drab part of town a little distance from the most popular tourist areas, though tolerably close to the Zona Rosa.  The carpeted rooms each have a writing desk and TV – and a lot of fake marble.  Parking and a restaurant on site.  Often full Fri and Sat.  M$280

#### AROUND THE REVOLUTION MONUMENT

Casa Blanca Lafragua 7  55 5096 4500 or  800 200 2252, in the US & Canada  1 800 905 2905,  hotel-casablanca.com.mx; Metro Revolución; map.  Attractive but rather impersonal modern high-rise hotel with perfectly decent rooms at prices a good deal lower than a lot of the Zona Rosa places.  There's even a rooftop pool, a gym, business facilities and a restaurant.  Wheelchair-friendly with an adapted room.  Breakfast included.  M$1160

Manalba Antonio Caso 23  55 5566 6066,  hotelmanalba@hotmail.com; Metro Revolución; map.  Squat and ugly from outside but tastefully decorated within.  Good-value rooms all come with cable TV and purified water, though you might want to spend M$120 extra for a more spacious double (with the standard two double beds) or for twin beds and a jacuzzi.  M$695

#### THE ZONA ROSA, ROMA AND CONDESA

 La Casona Durango 280, at Cozumel  55 5286 3001,  hotellacasona.com.mx; Metro Sevilla; map.  In an early twentieth-century building at the northern end of Condesa, _La Casona_ has an understated, if slightly quirky, European-style elegance, with polished wooden floors, antique furniture, a piano in its lounge and quite a collection of art – including masks, original cartoons and paintings.  The rooms are all different, with an aesthete's attention to detail, and it has a good restaurant.  Breakfast included.  M$2450

Geneve Londres 130  55 5080 0841 or  800 900 0000, from the US & Canada  1 800 714 6549,  hotelgeneve.com.mx; Metro Insurgentes; map.  A large, century-old, but thoroughly modern hotel right in the heart of the Zona Rosa with an understated, elegant feel.  Rooms are comfortable if unspectacular, with cable TV and mini-bars, but the facilities are excellent, and include the lovely Salon Jardín with its stained glass and iron roof, a restaurant, gym, spa and on-site _Sanborns_ restaurant.  The lobby has interesting exhibits on the hotel's history and past clients, who have included Marlon Brando, William Randolph Hearst and Charles Lindbergh.  Breakfast included.  M$1580

Hotel Del Principado Londres 42  55 5533 2944 or  800 830 6040,  hoteldelprincipado.com.mx; Metro Insurgentes; map.  The double rooms (with two double beds) are rather more spacious and get rather more light than the one-bed rooms (in which it's worth asking for a king-size bed, as these cost no extra), but all have a TV and phone, and there's free wi-fi, parking facilities and a laundry service.  Breakfast included.  M$890

 Maria Cristina Rio Lerma 31, Cuauhtémoc  55 5703 1212,  hotelmariacristina.com.mx; Metro Insurgentes; map.  A lovely little colonial-style hotel near the Museo Venustiano Carranza.  Popular with European visitors, the rooms are bright and quiet, though without the wood panelling and blue tiles of the public areas.  Standard rooms have fans, deluxe rooms have a/c. M$850

Posada Viena Marsella 28, at Dinamarca  55 5592 7312 or  800 849 8402, in the US  1 888 698 0690,  posadavienahotel.com; Metro Cuauhtémoc or Insurgentes; map.  Lovely fresh and bright rooms decorated in rustic Mexican style, with ceiling fans though no a/c, at this comfortable but unpretentious four-star.  The room price is the same for double, king-size or twin beds.  M$685

Roosevelt Insurgentes Sur 287  55 5208 6813,  hotelroosevelt.com.mx; Metro Insurgentes; map.  The 1938 Art Deco exterior of this mid-range hotel on the edge of Condesa has been spruced up, and the interior and rooms have been intelligently and stylishly modernized with tasteful use of grey, pink and brick-red.  There's also satellite TV, wi-fi and a decent downstairs restaurant.  M$730

Segovia Regency Chapultepec 328  55 5525 0388 or  800 007 3845,  hotelsegovia.com.mx; Metro Insurgentes; map.  Reliable high-rise hotel with parking facilities.  The carpeted rooms aren't huge, though they're certainly not spartan either, and all have a/c and wi-fi.  It's often fully booked with business regulars, so reserve ahead, especially during the week.  M$625

#### POLANCO

Busue Eugenio Sué 45  55 6650 5916,  busue.mx; Metro Polanco; map.  Very stylish boutique hotel a short walk from Mexico City's hottest shopping district.  Mega-bathrooms and king-size beds throughout; even a deluxe room (the most basic option) comes with butler service.  Supremely comfortable beds, jacuzzi, high-speed internet, fax machine, satellite TV, stereo, music library and free daily international paper.  There's also a superb restaurant and bar on site.  US$226 (M$3860)

Hyatt Regency Campos Elisos 204  55 5083 1234,  mexicocity.regency.hyatt.com; Metro Polanco; map.  Not the most expensive high-rise business hotel in the city but as luxurious as you could want, with an indoor pool, rooftop tennis courts, gym and acres of glass and marble.  US$380 (M$6490)

#### THE AIRPORT AND AROUND

Hilton Mexico City Airport Airport Terminal 1  55 5133 0507 or  800 003 1400, in the US  1 800 HILTONS,  hilton.com; Metro Terminal Aérea.  An elevator from Sala G (upstairs from Sala E3) takes you up to this efficient upmarket hotel which occupies much of the terminal's third floor with its restaurants, bars, gym and well-appointed, though not especially large, rooms (some with runway views).  The multichannel TV even has in-house movies and flight information screens.  The rack rate may apply when demand is high, but rates are usually substantially lower (sometimes by as much as half) at weekends in particular.  US$174 (M$2975)

Hotel Aeropuerto Blv de Puerto Aéreo 380  55 5785 5851,  55 5784 1329; Metro Terminal Aérea.  The cheapest of the hotels near the airport, with well-maintained rooms (some with runway views); all have TV and phone, plus there's room service from the on-site restaurant.  The hotel is a taxi ride from Terminal 2, but just a short walk from Terminal 1 (follow signs from Sala A to the Metro, and cross the busy road using the footbridge).  M$640

NH Aeropuerto Airport Terminal 2  55 5786 5750 or  800 903 3300,  nh-hoteles.es; Metro Hangares.  A very sleek, modern hotel, with extremely spacious public areas.  The large rooms are equipped with either a king-size bed or two double beds, and the five-star facilities include a pool, gym and fitness centre.  An elevator takes you from the ground floor of the terminal to the sixth floor, where the hotel is located.  M$1699

Ramada Aeropuerto México Blv de Puerto Aéreo 390  55 5133 3232 or  800 062 1218,  ramadamexico.com; Metro Terminal Aérea.  Attractive business hotel with lower prices than the big airport hotels but still with most of their features and facilities.  It's located next to the _Hotel Aeropuerto_, a short walk from Terminal 1, so it is barely worth using the hotel's free airport transfer, unless you're going to Terminal 2, or if you suffer from impaired mobility (the hotel is wheelchair-friendly with an adapted room).  Breakfast included.  M$1928

#### TERMINAL DEL NORTE AND AROUND

Brasilia Av de los Cien Metros 4823  55 5587 8577 or  800 503 5212,  hotel-brasilia.com.mx; Metro Autobuses del Norte.  Good-value business-style hotel (though sometimes a bit snooty towards backpackers) just 150m southeast of the bus station (turn left as you exit and it's straight ahead of you), where you can get a peaceful sleep in comfortable, carpeted rooms with cable TV and phone.  There's a decent if slightly pricey restaurant on site, parking facilities and even room service.  You'll pay M$100 extra for a/c. M$600

Cartagena Av de los Cien Metros  55 5368 3527; Metro Autobuses del Norte.  A hotel/motel a block from the terminal, this option is a secure and comfortable building which takes reservations a week in advance and offers discounts if you pay in cash.  M$490

< Back to Accommodation

## HOSTELS

#### AROUND THE ZÓCALO

Hostal Amigo Isabel la Católica 61  800 746 7835 or  55 5512 3496,  hostalamigo.com; Metro Isabel la Católica; map.  Backpackers' hangout with eight- to ten-bed dorms, some with outside windows, but there are lockers (bring your own padlock), several private rooms (not cheap), free internet, a luggage deposit, a bar, a kitchen and communal areas.  The hostel also runs tours, some of which are free to guests.  Breakfast and dinner included.  Dorms M$190, doubles M$490

Hostal Moneda Moneda 8  55 5522 5803; Metro Zócalo; map.  Convivial hostel with eight-bed dorms, a couple of lounges (one with TV), a decent kitchen, a bar and a panoramic rooftop terrace where the buffet breakfast is served.  Private rooms are also available, but pricey.  Make a reservation if you are to arrive after 11pm.  Half board included in price.  Dorms M$165, doubles M$465

Hostel Catedral Guatemala 4  55 5518 1726; Metro Zócalo; map.  Large, secure and efficiently run modern place behind the cathedral.  Open 24hr, it has spotless six-bunk rooms, most with private bathroom, and some private rooms.  There's an on-site travel agency, internet access, a café and bar, free coffee all day, Spanish classes available and a rooftop terrace with fabulous views.  The only drawbacks are the small kitchen, limited communal areas and noise.  Bring your own lock for the lockers, and consider bringing earplugs too.  If you pay for four nights at once, the fifth is free.  Discount with HI card.  Breakfast included.  Dorms M$190, doubles M$312

Mexico City Hostel Brasil 8  55 5512 7731,  mexicocityhostel.com; Metro Zócalo; map.  Great location and decent enough eight- or twelve-bed dorms, as well as wi-fi and free internet access, but the small, dark, private rooms are seriously overpriced, and you may have to go up or down a floor to find a bathroom.  Breakfast included.  Dorms M$200, doubles M$500

#### AROUND THE REVOLUTION MONUMENT

 Casa de los Amigos Ignacio Mariscal 132  55 5705 0521,  casadelosamigos.org; Metro Revolución; map.  The community-oriented, Quaker-run _Casa_ , on a quiet street in the house where José Clemente Orozco spent the last decade of his life, pitches itself as a guesthouse, though it still has eight- and four-bed dorms as well as a few singles and doubles.  Clean and comfortable with a good kitchen (breakfast available), a meditation room/library and occasional film screenings, it's popular with long-stay guests (minimum two-night stay).  No alcohol and no smoking.  Dorms M$100, doubles M$300

#### ROMA & CONDESA

Hostel Home Tabasco 303, Roma  55 5511 1683; Metro Sevilla; map.  This small twenty-bunk hostel in a quiet street is called " _Home_ " because it was originally a family house.  It's a little distant from the main sights, but has, as it advertises, a "chilled atmosphere", a kitchen and free internet, and is open 24hr.  As well as the six- and eight-bunk dorms there's a sunny lounge and a small kitchen.  Breakfast included.  Dorms M$170, doubles M$450

Stayinn Barefoot Juan Escutia 125, Condesa  55 6286 3000; Metro Chapultepec; map.  This multi-storey building around a sunken courtyard is a good catch-all budget option for those wanting to stay close to the action in Condesa.  Decor is modern and dorms and private rooms are simple and elegant.  Also has a lively bar at the entrance which doubles up as a reception during the day.  Dorms M$250, doubles M$500

< Back to Accommodation

# EATING

Cafés, cheap eats and snacks

Restaurants

There are reasonably priced restaurants, cafés, _taquerías_ and juice stands on every block.  The choice of where to eat ranges from traditional coffeehouses to fast-food lunch counters, taking in expensive **international** and rock-bottom **Mexican** cooking along the way, as well as food stalls in **markets** throughout the city: Merced is the biggest, but not a terribly pleasant place to eat.  At the back of Plaza Garibaldi, there's a whole market hall given over to nothing but food stands, each vociferously competing with its neighbours.  Mexico City also abounds in **rosticerías** , roast chicken shops, serving tasty set meals and crispy chicken with beer in a jolly atmosphere.  More so than anywhere else in the country, Mexico City is flooded with **chain restaurants** , both American franchises and slightly classier Mexican chains such as _Sanborns_ and _VIPS_ ; on the whole, you're much better off with a comida corrida.  Top-class restaurants are mostly concentrated in **Polanco**. 

# TOP 5 PLACES TO EAT TRADITIONAL MEXICAN FOOD

Los Girasoles

Restaurant Bar Chon

El Arroyo

Fonda San Ángel

San Ángel Inn

## CAFÉS, CHEAP EATS AND SNACKS

#### AROUND THE ZÓCALO

Café Emir Uruguay 45  55 5521 2669; Metro Zócalo; map.  Modernized café that's been operating since 1936 and serves good espresso, empanadas, cakes and even a range of baklava ( _dulce árabe_ ; M$13 a piece).  Mon–Fri 8am–9pm, Sat 10am–8pm, Sun noon–8pm. 

Café el Popular 5 de Mayo  55 5518 6081; Metro Allende; map.  A cheap place with an old-fashioned feel, serving simple food round the clock.  It's almost always crowded, and the turnover is pretty fast, with great breakfasts, coffee and snacks.  Meal deals include beef with fries, _refritos_ , scrambled egg, coffee and a roll, all for M$60.  Daily 24hr. 

 Café de Tacuba Tacuba 28  55 5521 2048; Metro Allende; map.  There's good coffee and excellent food at moderate prices ( _pollo al mole_ M$205, chiles stuffed with cheese M$172) at this famous cantina-style restaurant a world apart from the city life outside.  The locals have been packing it out since 1912, often bringing in mariachi bands off the street who will play continuously if paid enough.  Daily 8am–11.30pm. 

Dulcería de Celaya 5 de Mayo 39  55 5521 1787,  dulceriadecelaya.com; Metro Allende; map.  Founded in 1874, this is wonderland for sweet lovers, with real old-school fruit-based confectionery, including candied fruit, _dulce de membrillo_ (quince jelly), _camotes_ (sweet-potato candy), and limes stuffed with coconut.  Daily 10.30am–7.30pm. 

Jugos Canada 5 de Mayo 49  55 5518 3717; Metro Allende; map.  Very good torta and juice bar with decent prices, despite its central location.  A _vampiro_ (blood-like combination of orange, celery and beetroot juice) goes for M$28; _licuados_ start at M$27.  Mon–Sat 8am–10pm, Sun 9am–9pm. 

Pastelería Ideal Uruguay 74  55 5130 2170,  pasteleriaideal.com.mx; Metro San Juan de Letrán; map.  A cavernous bakery (made to look even larger by mirrors), with a huge range of cakes, biscuits and moulded gelatine confections, not to mention luscious chocolate cherries (M$20/100g).  Daily 6.30am–9.30pm. 

La Vasconia Tacuba 73  55 5521 0659; Metro Allende; map.  One of the best bread and cake shops in the centre, founded in 1870, with a huge range of rolls, biscuits, pastries and even lemon meringue " _pay_ " (M$25).  There's also an eating area where they serve breakfasts (M$50–90), snacks and main courses (a quarter of a roast chicken, for example, for M$30).  Daily 7am–9.30pm (restaurant 7am–9pm). 

#### AROUND THE ALAMEDA

Café del Palacio inside Bellas Artes  55 5518 5078; Metro Bellas Artes; map.  An elegant café-restaurant in Art Deco surroundings.  Enjoy limited views of Tamayo's murals as you eat amid business lunchers and pre-theatre diners.  The list of what's available isn't huge, but they change it fortnightly.  Typical dishes include _huachinango a la veracruzana_ (snapper in red chile sauce; M$180), or roast beef in balsamic sauce (M$180).  There's also a two-course _menu del Palacio_ (M$280).  Meals served daily 1–5pm, coffee served Mon noon–5pm, Tues–Sat 10am–7pm or later if there's a show. 

Cafetería el Cuadrilatero Luis Moya 73  55 5521 3060; Metro Balderas; map.  Like Mexico City's other wrestling cafés, _El Cuadrilatero_ ("the ring") is owned and run by Super Astro, an ex-wrestler, with wrestling masks framed on the walls along with photos of his glory days.  The food's good, including standard Mexican mains, burgers and tortas big enough for a wrestler or for two mere mortals.  The house speciality is a 1.3kg solid meat _gladiador_ sandwich – if you can eat it in 15min, it's free, otherwise M$210 (or get a smaller version for M$128).  Mon–Sat 7am–8pm. 

#### ZONA ROSA

Barro-Barroco Londres 211  55 5207 6433; Metro Insurgentes; map.  A small and peaceful café a little away from the main bustle of the Zona, serving coffee, breakfasts and meals at prices that are modest for the area.  Mon–Fri 8am–4.30pm. 

Blah Blah Café Florencia 44 (at Londres)  55 5514 6753; Metro Insurgentes; map.  Café, bar and Argentine grill, where an executive steak meal (12.30–8pm) will set you back around M$178, or you can have a lighter set meal for M$99, or a mixed grill for M$247.  Mon–Fri 11am–midnight, Sat noon–midnight, Sun noon–11pm. 

La Casa del Toño Londres 144  55 5386 1125; Metro Sevilla; map.  The spot for _pozole_ , an Aztec pork stew that many see as the ultimate hangover cure.  This 24hr branch of the city-wide chain serves up piping-hot bowls (M$85) of the delicious stuff along with tacos and other staples.  A very popular place for food following a party in the Zona Rosa.  Daily 24hr. 

El Trompito Londres 119-A  55 5511 1015; Metro Insurgentes; map.  If you're looking for a cheap snack amid the Zona's tourist traps, this modest little _taquería_ could be the oasis you need, with tacos ( _al pastor_ M$26), tortas (M$35–55) and _alambres_ (small kebabs; M$51–93) at reasonable prices in clean surroundings.  Mon–Sat 1pm–4am, Sun noon–9pm. 

#### CONDESA

Neve Gelato Cuernavaca 124 (at Michoacán)  55 5256 3345,  nevegelato.mx; Metro Patriotismo or Juanacatlán; map.  They do crêpes and cakes here, but what draws the crowds is the luscious ice cream in flavours fruity (soursop, black cherry, _mamey_ ) or nutty (toasted almond, amaretto, hazelnut, tiramisú).  One scoop for M$42, two scoops for M$61.  Daily 7am–10pm. 

Neveria Roxy Tamaulipas at Alfonso Reyes  55 5256 1854, Metro Patriotismo; map.  Located on a pretty corner, this classic of the Condesa has been serving up delicious ice cream and sorbet since 1946.  Two scoops (M$40) served in a cone, waffle cup or bowl are a delight on a hot day.  Also serves up big sundaes (M$38) and banana splits (M$75).  Daily 11am–9pm. 

#### POLANCO

La Ciudad de Colima Horacio 522, at Lamartine  55 5545 2719; Metro Polanco; map.  Good but overpriced _jugería_ with some unusual _jugos_ such as (depending on the season) starfruit ( _carambola_ ), kiwi, sapodilla ( _chicu_ ) and _mamey_.  Prices start at M$35.  Daily 7am–9pm. 

#### SAN ÁNGEL AND SOUTH

Café Solo Dios Plaza San Jacinto 2  55 5550 3302; Metrobús Dr Gálvez; map.  This popular hole-in-the-wall café and takeaway spot does great espressos, frappés and all the usual variations, all made from organic Chiapas beans.  Daily 7am–9pm. 

Crêperie du Soleil Madero 4-C  55 5550 2585,  creperiedusoleil.com; Metrobús Dr Gálvez; map.  Small and peaceful café that's good for an espresso, cakes and, of course, crêpes, both sweet (for example three berries, with blackberries, raspberries and strawberries for M$80) and savoury (try popeye, with creamed spinach and cheese for M$65).  Daily 8am–7pm. 

#### COYOACÁN

El Caracol de Oro Higuera 22  55 5658 9054; map.  Laid-back restaurant and juice bar serving salads, pasta dishes (such as vegetarian lasagne for M$85), chiles stuffed with various fillings (chile stuffed with cheese in mango sauce is M$75), breakfasts, tea, coffee and excellent juices and energy drinks.  There are always plenty of vegetarian options on the menu.  Mon–Sat 10am–10.30pm, Sun 10am–10pm. 

Le Caroz Allende 5, on Plaza Hidalgo  55 5554 6374,  lecaroz.com; map.  Coyoacán's excellent local bakery supplies a wide range of breads, luscious cakes, wobbly multicoloured jellies and a few savouries.  Their speciality is _pan dulce_.  Mon–Sat 6.15am–10pm, Sun 6.15am–9.50pm. 

La Vienet Viena 112, at Abasolo  55 5554 4623; map.  A good place for refreshments in between visits to the Kahlo and Trotsky houses, this small daytime café serves great coffee and cakes as well as breakfasts (until noon), lunch-time menus (M$140) and dishes such as _quesadillas sincronizadas_ (M$70) and _enchiladas suizas_ (M$85).  Mon–Fri 8am–9pm, Sat & Sun 9am–6pm. 

< Back to Eating

## RESTAURANTS

#### AROUND THE ZÓCALO

Casa de los Azulejos Madero 4  55 5512 1331; Metro Bellas Artes; map.  Flagship _Sanborns_ restaurant in a wonderful sixteenth-century building, with prime seating around a fountain in an enclosed three-storey courtyard.  The food is _Sanborns_ stock in trade of well-prepared Mexican staples, though a little overpriced.  Breakfasts are M$88–126, chicken fajitas M$125 and chicken tacos M$92.  Daily 7am–midnight. 

 Danubio Uruguay 3  55 5512 0912,  danubio.com; Metro San Juan de Letrán; map.  Established restaurant that has specialized in seafood since 1936.  A hearty _bacalao a la Vizcaina_ (Basque-style saltfish, in red pepper and tomato sauce) is M$280, or there's succulent seabass fillet stuffed with seafood for M$305.  Mon–Sat 1–11pm. 

Gili Pollos 5 de Mayo at Isabel la Católica 10  55 5254 4078; Metro Allende; map.  Is your Spanish up to the wordplay?  Either way this is the best rotisserie chicken spot in the centre.  With the sizzling birds seasoned a few different ways (roasted/BBQ/ _ranchero_ ) behind the metal counter, take a seat ringside, upstairs or grab tacos, tortas and whole (M$86), half (M$49) and quarter (M$28) chickens to go.  Daily 9am–9pm. 

 Los Girasoles Tacuba 8-A (at Plaza Manuel Tolsá)  55 5510 0630; Metro Allende; map.  One of the most appealing restaurants in the centre, with Mediterranean decor, a casual atmosphere and great food served at moderate prices, including burritos of _pibil_ pork (M$98), which you might follow with chicken in _mole poblano_ (M$156).  Opens earlier for breakfast on Sun.  Mon–Sat 1–11.30pm, Sun 10am–9pm. 

Hostería de Santo Domingo Belisario Dominguez 72  55 5526 5276; Metro Allende; map.  Full of character, this moderately priced restaurant in part of a former convent looks great, with decorations hanging from the ceiling, artesanía all over the walls and, usually, a pianist and singer in the corner.  But the food is not quite as good as they think it is; even their signature _chiles en nogada_ (M$195) is better done elsewhere.  There's a Sun buffet 9am–noon (including _chiles en nogada_ ) for M$130.  Daily 9am–10pm. 

Kam Ling Cerrada de 5 de Mayo 14  55 5521 5661; Metro Allende; map.  Straightforward Chinese food in seriously large proportions to eat in or take away.  There's a buffet for M$73, set menus (M$60–90) or individual dishes such as Cantonese-style squid with green pepper in black bean sauce (M$58), or chow mein of chicken, beef or pork (M$55), all washed down with huge pots of jasmine tea (M$20).  Daily 11am–10pm. 

Restaurant Bar Chon Regina 160  55 5542 0873; Metro Merced; map.  A veritable eating adventure, specializing in pre-Hispanic dishes, with starters such as _mescal_ worms (M$260), _escamoles_ (ant eggs; M$240) or _chapulines_ (grasshoppers; M$100), served with or without guacamole.  If you prefer a main course from outside the insect kingdom, there's frogs' legs (M$140), or crocodile steak in _mole verde_ (M$230).  Mon–Sat 11am–7pm. 

La Terraza 4th floor of Majestic  55 5521 8600; Metro Zócalo; map.  Restaurant with a terrace overlooking the Zócalo, although the view deteriorates significantly once you're seated.  The buffet breakfast (7am–noon; M$140 weekdays, M$170 weekends) is good, and in the evening there's à la carte dining with well-prepared Mexican standards such as chicken with a choice of _moles_ (M$140).  Daily 7am–11pm. 

Terraza 7th floor of Gran Hotel Ciudad de México  55 1083 7700 or  800 088 7700,  restauranteterrazaciudaddemexico.com.mx; Metro Zócalo; map.  High-class eating and unbeatable views over the Zócalo at this top-notch renovated rooftop restaurant bar, and on the way up you can even snatch a peek at the _Gran Hotel_ 's amazing Tiffany glass ceiling.  You could just pop up for one of their enormous cocktails (the house speciality is a gargantuan strawberry margarita for M$140), but then you'd be missing out on dishes like snapper steak in garlic with veg of the day (M$250) or _pollo en mole poblano_ (M$115).  Alternatively, drop by any time before 6pm at the weekend for a gluttonous M$290 buffet brunch.  Mon–Fri 1–11pm, Sat & Sun 9am–11pm. 

Los Vegetarianos (Vegetariano Madero) Upstairs at Madero 56  55 3521 6880; Metro Zócalo; map.  This sunny, spacious vegetarian restaurant lurks behind an unprepossessing stairway entrance but offers some of the best-value vegetarian food around, usually with piano accompaniment at lunch time.  The four-course _menu del día_ (M$75–110) is especially good value, though they also do great breakfasts.  Daily 8am–8pm. 

#### AROUND THE ALAMEDA

La Cocinita de San Juan Ernesto Pugibet 21  55 5512 5237; Metro Pino Suarez; map.  If you're after proper pre-Hispanic cuisine, including such delights as ant eggs ( _escamoles_ ), spiders, wild boar or crocodile (a real treat), this place beside the exotic meats market gets them all in fresh daily.  You can have your meat a number of different ways (tacos, tortas, myriad sauces), or opt for more traditional options like hamburgers or _mole_ , but the truly brave will go for the "mixed insects" (M$400).  Daily 10am–8pm. 

Oriental Dolores 27  55 5521 3093; Metro Bellas Artes; map.  A reasonable choice among the chop-suey houses in Mexico City's mini-Chinatown, serving the usual standards (apart from chow mein, which is inexplicably absent from the menu), as well as its own specialities such as chicken Canton (M$85) or steamed fish with ginger (M$170).  Daily noon–8.30pm. 

#### ZONA ROSA

Bistrot Mosaico Reforma 316  55 5525 8300; Metro Insurgentes; map.  A chain of French bakeries and restaurants, this Reforma-side locale serves up fresh bread and pastries out of the shop-front counter, while those looking for classic French cooking such as _bœuf bourguignon_ (M$160) won't be disappointed in the restaurant.  Also has a good selection of wines (around M$400 for a good bottle).  Daily 8am–11pm. 

Don Asado Rio Lerma 210, Cuauhtémoc  55 5533 9000,  donasado.com.mx; Metro Sevilla; map.  Uruguayan steak house serving wonderful chargrilled steaks, perfectly done to whatever turn you so desire.  A _tira de asado_ (a typical Uruguayan cut) will set you back M$140, or you can opt for a mixed grill for two at M$360.  Mon & Sun 1–8pm, Tues–Thurs 1–11pm, Fri & Sat 1–11.30pm. 

La Lanterna Reforma 458, at Toledo  55 5207 9969,  lalanterna.neositios.com; Metro Insurgentes; map.  Long-standing and convivial trattoria with an intimate and suitably Italian feel, enhanced by pasta freshly made in-house and combined with a choice of delicious sauces (M$151).  The _segundi piatti_ are equally wonderful, with _osso buco alla milanese_ or _saltimbocca alla romana_ for M$199.  Mon–Sat 1–11pm. 

Restaurante Vegetariano Yug Varsovia 3  55 5525 5330; Metro Insurgentes; map.  A worthy contact point for vegetarians and vegans, with breakfasts, salads (house salad M$51) and _antojitos_ in bright cheery surroundings.  There's a particularly good buffet lunch upstairs (1–5pm; Mon–Fri M$90, Sat & Sun M$100).  Mon–Fri 7am–9pm, Sat & Sun 8.30am–8pm. 

#### CONDESA

For serious dining, especially in the mid-range, head to Condesa, about 20min walk south of the Zona Rosa.  We've mentioned a few options in this area, but they are really just starting points, and the real pleasure is in simply wandering around and seeing what takes your fancy.  The two principal streets for hungry visitors are Tamaulipas and Michoacán on the west side of Nuevo León, and Amsterdam to the east, the circular road that runs around Parque México. 

Agapi Mu Alfonso Reyes 96  55 5286 1384,  agapimu.com.mx; Metro Juanacatlán or Patriotismo; map.  The best Greek restaurant in the city, but very low-key and affordable as long as you don't go too mad on the _retsina_ and Hungarian wines.  It's especially fun from Thurs to Sat, when there's live music and Greek dancing.  Moussaka (M$155) inevitably heads the list of main courses, followed by less well-known but equally delicious dishes such as _psári costas_ (fish wrapped in vine leaves in an egg and lemon sauce; M$140).  Mon & Sun 1.30–6pm, Tues–Sat 1.30–11pm. 

Bellini 45th floor, World Trade Center, Av de las Naciones  55 9000 8305,  bellini.com.mx; Metrobús Poliforum; map.  A posh revolving restaurant at the top of the city's third-tallest building, where business people come to impress their clients, and the romantically inclined enjoy candlelit dinners.  Dishes from an international menu are prepared to the highest standards and service is impeccable.  It's obviously not the cheapest place in town, but not stupidly expensive either: even at the top end of the menu, you can start with smoked salmon, caviar and avocado for M$215, followed by red snapper in lobster sauce for M$290.  On Sun there's a M$350 brunch until 2pm.  Mon–Sat 1pm–2am, Sun 9am–11pm. 

Bottega Culinaria Sonora 180  55 6434 9592; Metrobús Sonora; map.  A delicatessen with a kitchen offering some of the best food around Parque México, this relaxing spot is something of an oasis from the busier street a few metres beyond the chunky wooden tables.  Serves up excellent cronuts (a croissant-doughnut hybrid), strong coffee and very tasty sandwiches.  Mon–Sat 9am–midnight, Sun 9am–10pm. 

Café la Gloria Vicente Suarez 43  55 5211 4185; Metro Patriotismo or Juanacatlán; map.  Pleasant little bistro serving pasta dishes, salads or the likes of chicken with mushrooms, spinach and cream of _elote_ (corn), or _filet mignon_ (boh M$175).  Desserts include profiteroles, chocolate mousse or blueberry cheesecake.  Mon–Fri 1pm–midnight, Sat & Sun 10am–1am. 

Daikoku Michoacán 25  55 5584 9419; Metrobús Sonora; map.  The best sushi in Condesa, and possibly the city as a whole, Daikoku also serves up good ramen, sashimi, tempura and Japanese desserts for fair prices (around M$200/person).  Also has a cookery school upstairs where you can spend anywhere from an afternoon to three months learning the mind-bogglingly precise art of sushi.  Daily 1pm–12.30am. 

Fonda Garufa Michoacán 93  55 5286 8295,  garufa.com; Metro Patriotismo or Juanacatlán; map.  The original eatery of the colonia; the loyal regulars will tell it you was here before Condesa was cool, and it's no wonder it has such longevity.  Top-quality cuisine as well as pastries and excellent coffee.  Grab a street-side table or head for the balony upstairs and watch peaceful Condesa life go by as you tuck into excellent steaks (house steak M$190) or dishes such as salmon mayonnaise (M$180).  Daily 8am–1am. 

El Jamil Amsterdam 306 (at Celaya)  55 5564 9486; Metro Sevilla; map.  A good Lebanese restaurant with _mezze_ such as hummus or _babaghanouj_ (aka _moutabel_ – eggplant and tahini dip) for M$60, and mains such as _shish tawouk_ (charcoal-grilled chicken kebab) for M$155.  You can round it off with coffee and baklava, or sit outside and smoke a _sheesha_ (water-pipe).  Mon–Wed 1.30–11pm, Thurs–Sat 1.30–11.30pm, Sun 9am–8pm. 

Kitchen 6 Teotihuacan 14 at Amsterdam  55 5264 1748; Metrobús Sonora; map.  Build your own burger (around M$120) with the best ingredients, choosing everything from the bread onwards, at this stylish (although rather dark) restaurant with street-side tables and an extensive selection of craft beer.  The six-sauce fries (M$70) are also a good sharing option as well as sandwiches and salads for those looking for something different.  Daily 1pm–midnight. 

 Mercado Roma Queretaro 225  55 5564 1396  mercadoroma.com; Metrobús Sonora; map.  A big food hall with a collection of gourmet world cuisines ranging from fantastic shawarma to delectable tapas, with a friendly and attractive seating area at the back, ringed by various bars serving up craft beer, wines and the country's best mescal and tequila.  There's a mezzanine offering desserts and a rooftop bar with microbrewed beers and signature cocktails.  A very popular spot for the trendy crowd at weekends.  Daily 9am–6pm (ground floor), 9am–midnight (mezzanine and rooftop). 

Mibong Campeche 396  55 5211 2078; Metro Juanacatlán; map.  Serving authentic Southeast Asian food from an open kitchen with fresh ingredients, this pleasant restaurant is a popular lunch-time destination for Condesa residents.  The _phô_ soup (M$165) is particularly good, although you do the majority of the seasoning yourself.  Mon–Wed & Sun 1pm–12.30am, Thurs–Sat 1pm–1.30am. 

Second Amsterdam 76 (at Parras)  55 5553 3902; Metro Juanacatlán; map.  Relaxed, low-lit corner restaurant and café, open on both sides to pavement seating.  Salads, pasta dishes and mains such as chicken breast served with _al dente_ vegetables (M$82) are all well prepared.  Daily 11am–1am. 

Tandoor Amsterdam 72 (at Parras)  55 5553 9592; Metro Juanacatlán; map.  The best curry in the area, thanks largely to the fact they use a real _tandoor_ oven, is served up in this maharaja-style building with a pretty rooftop (the second-generation management have their roots in Pakistan).  The spices are authentic and you can expect to eat well.  Meals around M$300 per person, also does takeaway.  Mon–Sat 1pm–10.30pm, Sun 1–7pm. 

El Zorzal Cnr of Alfonso Reyes and Tamaulipas  55 5273 6023; Metro Patriotismo; map.  Argentine steakhouse serving up juicy slices of steer (a 300g churrasco, for example, for M$160), and _alfajor_ pastries or crêpes filled with _dulce de leche_ for dessert.  There's also a famous torta stand that operates on the same corner (look for the multicoloured umbrella and long queue) that serves up _chilaquiles_ and chicken sandwiches.  Mon–Sat 1pm–midnight, Sun 1–10pm. 

#### POLANCO

Bistro Charlotte Lope de Vega 341, at Presidente Masaryk  55 5250 4180, Metro Polanco; map.  Great little lunch-time bistro where the menu changes every fortnight or so and always offers an interesting and international selection (roast beef and Yorkshire pudding is not unknown, at M$285, even bangers and mash for M$146, or prawns provençale for M$184).  Mon–Fri & Sun 1–6pm. 

 Butcher & Sons Virgilio 8, at Parque Lincoln  55 5280 4247; Metro Auditorio; map.  This chain, which also has a stand in Mercado Roma, cooks up the best burgers (around M$140) in Mexico City, with fresh-baked buns, delicious patties and ingredient combinations named after rock stars.  It's worth waiting for a street-side table since the interior gets a little cramped.  Mon, Tues & Sun noon–11pm, Wed–Sat noon–1am. 

Denominación de Origen Hegel 406, at Presidente Masaryk  55 5255 0612; Metro Polanco; map.  Classy modern Spanish restaurant with a long bar, lots of whole hams and dishes like _bacalao a la vizcaína_ (saltfish Basque-style, in sweet pepper sauce; M$314), or a superb Andalusian _gazpacho_ (M$77).  Mon–Sat 1pm–midnight, Sun 1–5pm. 

Eltuca's Newton 116, at Lamartine  55 5545 8388 or 9; Metro Polanco; map.  Forget the rubbish they sell at the international junk-food chains: what you get here are proper burgers, made from sirloin steak and grilled over charcoal.  You don't get them flipped in an instant, but they're worth the wait.  A straight burger is M$55, and for non-carnivores there are salads, salmon-burgers (M$75) and veggie-burgers (M$75).  Home delivery available within Polanco.  Daily noon–10pm. 

#### SAN ÁNGEL AND SOUTH

The southern suburbs of San Ángel and Coyoacán are good hunting grounds and it is worth sticking around for your evening meal after a day's sightseeing. 

El Arroyo Insurgentes Sur 4003, Tlalpan, 6km south of San Ángel  55 5573 4344,  arroyorestaurante.com.mx; Metrobús Fuentes Brotantes; map.  Well off the beaten path, but worth the journey, this unusual restaurant has a small bullring (used by novice bullfighters in bloodless _corridas_ April–Oct) and almost a dozen dining areas that can jointly seat over 2500.  There's always a lively atmosphere, helped along by mariachis and other entertainment starting weekdays at 4pm, weekends at 5pm.  The Mexican food is good too – barbecued meats are the speciality, ordered by the portion or by the kilo (pork barbecued in maguey leaves goes for M$510 per kilo or M$260 a portion, a kilo being around four portions) – and they usually keep at least four types of flavoured _pulque_.  Daily 8am–8pm. 

Fonda San Ángel Plaza San Jacinto 3  55 5550 1641, Metrobús Dr Gálvez; map.  Moderately priced restaurant specializing in contemporary Mexican cuisine.  Start off with a "pre-Hispanic platter" of _escamoles_ (ant eggs), mescal worms and _chipulines_ (grasshoppers) for M$345, followed by _bacalao a la veracruzana_ (saltfish with onions and tomatoes) for M$170, or _lengua a la veracruzana_ (tongue prepared in a similar fashion) for M$150.  Mon–Sat 9am–midnight, Sun 9am–7pm. 

San Ángel Inn Diego Rivera 50, at Altavista  55 5616 2222,  sanangelinn.com; Metrobús Dr Gálvez; map.  Popular with visiting dignitaries and tourists, this late seventeenth-century former Carmelite monastery has been an elegant restaurant with a sumptuous garden setting since 1915.  The menu has European overtones, but is mainly Mexican, featuring starters such as _huitlacoche_ crêpes (M$115), and mains such as chiles stuffed with meat and cheese (M$160), plus fine wine or margaritas to accompany it.  Reservations required.  Daily 1pm–1am. 

Zeco Caffé Revolución 1382  55 5680 1092; Metro Barranca del Muerto; map.  Smart modern Italian establishment combining a café and spacious dining area.  It is a little inconveniently sited, but worth the journey for excellent risotto and pasta dishes (such as risotto with prawns, _nopales_ and green coriander for M$155) and a wide range of mains (such as roast goat for M$245).  It also doubles as a bar and bakery.  Mon–Sat 8am–midnight, Sun 8am–7pm. 

#### COYOACÁN

La Esquina de los Milagros Plaza Jardín del Centenario 18-B  55 5659 2454; map.  Elegant indoor dining with white tablecloths, or outdoors on decking on the main square, with dishes such as stuffed _chile poblano_ (M$120) or fish cooked in a banana leaf (M$135).  There's a lunch-time menu (1–5pm) for M$95, and live jazz music Thurs–Sat 9–11pm, with jam sessions on Mon from 8pm.  Daily 9am–midnight. 

El Tajín Centro Veracruzano, Miguel Ángel de Quevedo 687  55 5659 4447,  eltajin.com.mx; map.  Veracruz specialities at medium to high prices; the fish dishes, such as _huachinango a la Veracruzana_ (snapper in tomato, olive and caper sauce; M$200), and octopus in green herbs (M$185), are exquisite.  Mon–Fri 1–6pm, Sat & Sun 1–7pm. 

# PULQUE AND PULQUERÍAS

 **Pulque** is the fermented sap of the maguey cactus, a species of agave that grows in the countryside north and east of Mexico City.  A pre-Hispanic concoction traditionally considered to be a poor man's drink, _pulque_ had its heyday in the first half of the twentieth century – but as beer, wine and spirits became more affordable, _pulque_ 's stock went down.  At one time there were over 1400 **pulquerías** in the capital, but today owners estimate that there are only around a hundred or so left.  It's possible, however that Mexico City's _pulquerías_ may yet see a revival, as the drink has seen a rise in popularity of late among young Mexicans, particularly students interested in their cultural roots.  Regardless of demand, production continues much as it has done for centuries, with barrels being shipped daily to the capital. 

Unless you are looking for them, _pulquerías_ are hard to spot; they're concentrated in less salubrious areas of town mostly unvisited by tourists and often have no sign, just a pair of swinging doors guarding a dark interior.  Like cantinas, they are traditionally macho territory, and women are more likely to receive a respectful welcome when accompanied by male friends. 

These places are not set up for anything much more sophisticated than knocking back glasses of the slightly astringent, viscous green-white beverage, usually ladled out of barrels behind the bar.  The emphasis is as much on socializing as drinking, which is a good thing since most _pulque_ is only two to four percent alcohol and getting drunk requires considerable commitment, particularly since the thick liquid is extremely bloating.  The task is made easier when _pulque_ is blended with fresh fruit juices – pineapple, oats, guava and many others – _pulque_ flavoured in this manner is known as _curado_.  The most popular hunting ground is the **Plaza Garibaldi** , although there's a chance to try it on a night out in Condesa (see _Wichitos_). 

Los Duellistas Aranda 30; Metro Sam Juan Letrán; map.  During the day you are best off exploring the district south of Bellas Artes, where choices include this place which attracts a young clientele.  Mon–Sat 9am–9pm. 

La Hermosa Hortensia Plaza Garibaldi; Metro Garibaldi; map.  Always brightly lit and usually has several good flavours served up to a cross section of men and women, locals and foreigners.  Daily noon–midnight. 

La Risa Mesones 71, on the cnr of Callejón de Mesones; Metro Isabel La Católica; map.  Like the nearby _Los Duellistas_ , this _pulquería_ is another good daytime option, dating back to 1903.  Daily 11am–10pm. 

Wichitos Tamaulipas 104  55 5211 7098; Metro Juanacatlán; map.  The only Condesa _pulquería_ , serving up pure or _curado_ flavours including pineapple, oats and guava by the quarter (M$45), half (M$60) and whole litre (M$100).  Has a good food menu that tries to pack in the whole of Mexican rustic cuisine.  You can also try a sampler of three different _pulques_ for M$35.  Gets very lively at the weekends when crowds come for the regular drinks they also serve.  Mon & Sun noon–7pm, Tues & Wed noon–midnight, Thurs–Sat noon–2am. 

< Back to Eating

# DRINKING AND NIGHTLIFE

Bars

Live music venues

Clubs

Gay bars

 **Club** -oriented nightlife starts late, with live acts often hitting the stage after 11pm and few places really getting going before midnight.  Cuban music is particularly popular, and with Cuba just a short flight away, Mexico City provides a local but international proving ground for the island's talent. 

## BARS

Bars range from dirt-cheap _pulquerías_ and cantinas to upscale lounges and hotel bars.  As elsewhere in the country, cantinas and _pulquerías_ are still largely a male preserve.  More civilized bars, where you might sit around and chat, are relatively thin on the ground. 

#### AROUND THE ZÓCALO AND THE ALAMEDA

La Ópera 5 de Mayo 10, near Bellas Artes  55 12 8959.  Metro Bellas Artes; map.  The best watering hole downtown, in the grand tradition of upmarket cantinas with magnificent _fin-de-siècle_ decor – ornate mahogany panelling, a brass-railed bar, gilt-framed mirrors in the booths – and a bullet hole in the ceiling reputedly put there by Pancho Villa.  You also can dine here, but most people come for a fairly pricey beer, tequila or cocktails in the booths or at the bar.  Mon–Sat 1pm–midnight, Sun 1–6pm. 

Tio Pepe Independencia 26, at Dolores  55 5521 9136; Metro Bellas Artes; map.  Convivial cantina with moulded ceilings and wooden bar.  Minstrels frequently drop in to bash out a few numbers, and women are nowadays welcome, but may feel more comfortable in the saloon ( _La Mascota_ ) next door.  Mon–Thurs noon–10pm, Fri noon–11pm, Sat noon–9.30pm. 

#### ZONA ROSA, ROMA AND CONDESA

Wallace Tamaulipas 45, Condesa  55 5256 3534; Metro Chilpancingo; map.  A stylish whisky bar on a street with a number of cool options.  The island bar here has over 100 brands of whisky and can make just about any cocktail you request.  There's a chilled-out lounge upstairs, but reserve a street-side table ahead of time if you want to make the most of the street's party atmosphere.  DJs Thurs–Sat.  Daily 3pm–2.30am. 

#### SAN ÁNGEL AND COYOACÁN

La Camelia Madero 3 (by Plaza San Jacinto), San Ángel  55 5616 5643; Metrobús Dr Gálvez; map.  Early-evening boozing to recent US and Latin pop hits, either inside or out on the street, at this vintage cantina dating from 1931.  There's decent food and a traditional, if never raucous, cantina atmosphere.  Daily noon–11pm. 

La Guadalupana Caballo Calco 7, on Plaza Hidalgo, Coyoacán  55 5554 6253; map.  Rather a refined and classic cantina (established in 1932), and an excellent place to sink a few beers of an evening.  Mon–Sat 1pm–midnight. 

El Hijo del Cuervo Jardín Centenario 17, Coyoacán  55 5659 5196,  elhijodelcuervo.com.mx; map.  Dark and hip bar with seats overlooking the square and music that ranges from Latin rap to rock.  There's no cover charge, and a lively evening atmosphere.  Mon–Thurs 4pm–midnight, Fri & Sat 11am–2.30am, Sun 1–11.30pm. 

< Back to Drinking and nightlife

## LIVE MUSIC VENUES

The live music scene has broadened appreciably in recent years, and there are venues for all kinds of bands, offering anything from old-fashioned romantic ballads to cutting-edge alternative rock bands. 

#### AROUND THE ZÓCALO AND THE ALAMEDA

Zinco Jazz Club Motolina 20, at 5 de Mayo  55 5512 3369,  zincojazz.com; Metro Allende; map.  Small but congenial venue, really just a bar/restaurant with entertainment by local jazz bands, tucked away in the vaults beneath the Art Deco splendour of the Banco de México building.  Entry M$80–250, depending on what's on.  Wed–Sat (and sometimes Tues) 9pm–2am. 

#### ZONA ROSA, ROMA AND CONDESA

Cantina Bicentenario Vicente Suarez 42, Condesa  55 5553 5451; Metro Juanacatlán; map.  The most authentic cantina in trendy Condesa, this is the place to come for a real Mexican drinking experience.  Mariachi bands, micheladas and botanas are served up here with relish, no matter how messy you get.  Mon–Wed noon–midnight, Thurs–Sat noon–2am. 

Multiforo Alicia Cuauhtémoc 91, between Colima and Durango, Roma  55 5511 2100,  multiforoalicia.blogspot.mx; Metro Cuauhtémoc; map. " Who hasn't been to Alicia doesn't know rock music", they claim, which may be an exaggeration, but this is still the place to catch Mexico's latest rock _ondas_.  Most of the action is on Fri & Sat, from 8.30pm, but some shows start as early as 5pm.  Expect to pay M$70–150, depending who's on.  Hours vary according to programme. 

Pata Negra Tamaulipas 30, Condesa  55 5211 5563; Metro Patriotismo or Sevilla; map.  Music bar with an impressive selection of fine spirits and live acts, mainly rock, usually Mon, Tues & Sat, with DJs Fri and Sun.  No cover charge for the upstairs bar which has salsa classes on Wed and Sat at 8pm.  Main bar daily 1.30pm–2.30am (music from 8.30pm); upstairs bar Tues–Sat 9pm–3am. 

Ruta 61 Baja California 281, Condesa  55 5211 7602; Metro Chilpancingo; map.  This cosy little blues club has jam sessions on Wed (free), and live music Thurs–Sat (M$60–120 entry), with tables to sit at while listening (reservation advised).  Wed–Sat 8pm–2am; music starts at 10pm. 

# TOQUES: SUPERCHARGED NIGHTLIFE

When out drinking in Mexico City, it's not unusual to witness Mexicans electrocuting themselves for fun.  The traditional drinking game **Toques** sees individuals or groups forming a human chain, undergoing increasingly strong electrical currents until they can take no more.  The aim is to withstand the current as high up the voltage meter as possible before **shouting for mercy** , or "Ya!"  in Spanish.  The voltage starts at 20 and reaches a rare maximum of 120.  The difficult leap is from 95 volts to 110.  The men who offer this bizarre game patrol a route around the popular drinking areas (particularly the centre, Condesa, Roma, Zona Rosa) and identify themselves by clicking together the metal handles of their apparatus.  A game costs around M$20 and ends when you cry for mercy.  Groups play by linking hands (or touching any other bare bit of skin) to form a chain which can be broken by releasing any link.  Despite the screams it may elicit, the game is safe, although it should be avoided by anyone with a heart pacemaker. 

< Back to Drinking and nightlife

## CLUBS

Entry can be expensive, as much as M$300 for men (women often get in for much less or sometimes for free), though this is likely to include a drink, or even _bar libre_ , where your drinks are free for at least part of the evening.  Be aware that dress restrictions are still very much the order of the day here, and a lot of clubs won't let you in wearing jeans or trainers. 

Love Masaryk 169, Polanco  55 5254 3535; Metro Polanco; map.  A discotheque, like they used to make them, complete with dress-to-impress wardrobe rules, chic decor and lots of pretty young patrons shaking their booties to pop hits old and new, but unless you're a VIP, you'll need to reserve in advance (by phone or online) in order to get in.  Entry usually M$250 for men, free for women.  Wed–Sat 11pm–4.30am. 

Mama Rumba Querétaro 230, at Medellin, Roma  55 5564 6920 or  55 5564 7823; Metro Insurgentes; map.  Reservations are advised for this dance bar.  The Hispano-Afro-Caribbean rhythms pumped out by the Cuban house band get the small dancefloor packed, so come prepared to move your feet even if you don't know the steps.  Bands come on at 11pm.  Wheelchair access.  Wed–Sat 9pm–3am. 

El Vicio (formerly El Hábito) Madrid 13, Coyoacán  55 5659 1139,  elvicio.com.mx; Metro Coyoacán (800m); map.  Small and quirky fringe theatre and music club, with plays and live jazz.  Also on site are _Novo's_ restaurant and the Teatro la Capilla.  Hours vary according to what's on, but typically Wed–Sun 8.30am–2am. 

< Back to Drinking and nightlife

## GAY BARS

The Zona Rosa (pink zone) is Mexico City's gay zone, and in particular the northernmost section of Amberes between Hamburgo and Reforma, where you'll find a slew of gay and lesbian bars.  The listings magazine _Tiempo Libre_ also has a section on gay and lesbian events and locales. 

El Marrakech Generalito Filomeno Mata 18-H  55 5518 3711; Metro Allende; map.  One of the city centre's most popular gay spots away from the Zona Rosa, although straight people are also welcome.  There's a sweaty dancehall at the back which is definitely for those of rainbow flag persuasion, and lively karaoke on Sun.  Also does decent food until around 7pm.  Mon–Wed noon–11pm, Thurs–Sun noon–3am. 

Gayta Amberes 18  55 5207 7626; Metro Insurgentes; map.  Pumping house music, black lights and a generally garish ambience make this pretty loud all round for such a small venue.  Lesbians supposedly have their own smoochy pink section called the _Pussy Bar_ , although male-male and male-female couples can also be found there.  Mon–Thurs & Sun 1pm–midnight, Fri & Sat 1pm–2am. 

Papi Amberes 18 at Estrasburgo  55 5208 3755; Metro Insurgentes; map.  Billing itself as "the original fun bar", this is a place for kitsch pop music, drag acts, beer, cocktails and general hedonism, generally for boys rather than girls, but it's not as if they're fussy.  Mon–Wed & Sun 4pm–2am, Thurs–Sat 3pm–3am. 

Touch Amberes 11 at Reforma  55 3231 9728; Metro Insurgentes; map.  A multi-level club offering raucous karaoke on the ground floor, a disco playing classic hits in the middle and full-on rave/electro higher up.  There's a quieter terrace for smoking and chat on the top.  Tues–Sun 5pm–2.30am. 

< Back to Drinking and nightlife

# ENTERTAINMENT

Mainstream Hollywood **movies** make it to Mexico just a few weeks after their release in the US and often before they get a British or European release.  One of the largest concentrations of cinemas is along Insurgentes, where half a dozen multiplexes total around fifty screens in all, with prices around M$40–60.  While Mexican **theatre** tends to be rather turgid, there are often excellent **classical music** concerts and **opera** or **ballet** performances by touring companies.  The Palacio de Bellas Artes and the Auditorio Nacional are the main venues, but other downtown theatres, as well as the Polyforum and the Teatro de los Insurgentes, may have interesting shows.  For listings, see the weekly magazine _Tiempo Libre_ ( tiempolibre.com.mx). 

Casa del Lago Bosque de Chapultepec (by the lake, near entrance on Reforma)  55 5553 6362,  www.casadellago.unam.mx; Metro Auditorio; map.  Music, dance and film all feature among the cultural activities organized by the University (UNAM) at this beautiful lakeside mansion in Chapultepec Park, but the most popular events are the Sat afternoon classical concerts, which are listed on the website, and almost always free.  Sat afternoon concerts usually either noon–1pm or 1–2pm; times for other events vary. 

< Back to Entertainment

# SHOPPING AND MARKETS

Department stores

Crafts

Markets

English-language books and newspapers

The big advantage of **shopping** in the capital is that you can get goods from all over the country and, if you are flying out of here, you don't have to lug them around Mexico, though they will usually be more expensive than at the source.  An odd hangover from Aztec times is the practice of devoting a whole street to one particular trade, which occurs to some extent throughout the city.  There are blocks where you can buy nothing but stationery, while other areas are packed exclusively with shoe shops and still others only sell musical instruments.  Every area of the city has its own **market** selling food and essentials, and many others set up stalls for just one day a week along a suburban street.  Replica Mexican football shirts can be found in the _tianguis_ (street markets) on San Juan Letrán between Bellas Artes and Salto del Agua, or those in the streets north and east of the Zócalo. 

# MARIACHI IN PLAZA GARIBALDI

 **Plaza Garibaldi** (Metros Bellas Artes and Garibaldi) is the traditional final call on a long night around the capital's bars, and as the night wears on and the drinking continues, it can get pretty rowdy.  The plaza is on Lázaro Cárdenas, five blocks north of Bellas Artes in a thoroughly sleazy area of cheap bars, grimy hotels and several brightly lit theatres offering burlesque and strip shows.  Despite a high-profile police presence, **pickpockets** are always a threat and it's best to avoid coming laden down with expensive camera equipment or an obviously bulging wallet. 

Hundreds of competing **mariachi** bands gather here in the evenings, all in their tight, silver-spangled _charro_ finery and vast sombreros, to play for anyone who'll pay them.  A typical group consists of two or four violins, a brass section of three trumpeters standing some way back so as not to drown out the others, three or four men on guitars of varying sizes and a vocalist, though a truly macho man will rent the band and do the serenading himself.  Mariachis take their name, supposedly, from the French _mariage_ , it being traditional during the nineteenth-century French intervention to rent a group to play at weddings.  You may also come across _norteño_ bands from the border areas with their Tex-Mex brand of country music, or the softer sounds of **marimba** musicians from the south.  Simply wander round the square and you'll get your fill – should you want to be individually serenaded, pick out a group and negotiate your price. 

At the back of the square is a huge market hall in which a whole series of stalls serve simple food and vie furiously for customers.  Alternatively, there is at least one prominent _pulquería_ on the square, and a number of fairly pricey restaurant/bars, which try to drown out the mariachi bands with their own canned music, and tempt customers with their no-cover entry.  The last Metro leaves at midnight. 

## DEPARTMENT STORES

Liverpool Carranza 92 (across 20 de Noviembre from El Palacio de Hierro)  55 5133 2800,  liverpool.com.mx; Metro El Sagrario; map.  The original branch of a nationwide chain founded in the nineteenth century, which originally imported much of its stock from the English port from which it takes its name.  Mon–Fri 11am–8.30pm, Sat 11am–9pm, Sun 11am–7.30pm. 

El Palacio de Hierro 20 de Noviembre 3 (just south of the Zócalo)  55 5728 9905,  elpalaciodehierro.com.mx; Metro El Sagrario; map.  A department store whose original branch, established in 1891, is actually in colonia Roma (at Durango 230).  It's generally considered the most upmarket of Mexico City's department stores.  Mon–Fri 11am–8.30pm, Sat 11am–9pm. 

Sanborns Madero 4 (near the main post office)  55 5512 7882,  sanborns.com.mx; Metro Bellas Artes; map.  Sells books, maps and quantities of tacky souvenirs, and also has a sizeable pharmacy, as well as a good restaurant, all housed in the beautiful Casa de los Azulejos.  Daily 7am–1am. 

< Back to Shopping and markets

## CRAFTS

Central Artesanal Buenavista Aldama 187, just east of the former train station; Metro Buenavista; map.  Handicrafts from around the country in what is claimed to be Mexico's largest shop.  Rather pricey compared to the Ciudadela, and less characterful.  Daily 9am–6pm. 

Centro Artesanal de San Juan (Mercado de Curiosidades Mexicanas) About five blocks south of the Alameda along Dolores; Metro San Juan de Letrán; map.  Modern tourist-oriented complex that's possibly the least appealing of the major artesanía markets, though there are still deals to be had (particularly in silver), provided you haggle.  Mon–Sat 9am–7pm, Sun 9am–4pm. 

Ciudadela cnr of Balderas and Emilio Donde; Metro Balderas; map.  The best place in the capital to buy regional crafts and souvenirs from every part of the country.  If you forgot to pick up a hammock in the Yucatán or some Olinalá lacquerwork in Guerrero, fear not: you can buy them here for not a great deal more.  Bargaining has limited rewards.  Mon–Sat 9am–7pm, Sun 9am–6pm. 

FONART Juárez 89 (at Balderas)  55 5521 0171,  fonart.gob.mx; Metro Hidalgo; map.  FONART is a government agency that promotes crafts and helps the artisans with marketing and materials.  The fixed prices are usually higher than elsewhere, but it is worth visiting to check price and quality before venturing to the markets.  FONART also has outlets at Reforma 116 (at Milán; Metro Cuauhtémoc) and the airport (Terminal 2).  Mon–Fri 10am–7pm, Sat 10am–6am, Sun 10am–4pm. 

# BALLET FOLKLÓRICO

The **Ballet Folklórico** ( 55 5529 9320 to 22,  balletamalia.com) is a long-running, internationally famed compilation of traditional dances from all over the country, elaborately choreographed and designed, and interspersed with Mexican music and singing.  Despite the billing, it isn't really very traditional – although it does include several of the more famous native dances, they are very jazzed up and incorporated into what is, in effect, a regular musical that wouldn't be out of place on Broadway. 

The Ballet Folklórico perform in the **Palacio de Bellas Artes**, where the theatre is an attraction in itself.  Performances are on Sunday at 9.30am and 8.30pm, and Wednesday at 8.30pm.  You should try to book at least a couple of days in advance – **tickets** (M$300–800) are available either from the Palacio de Bellas Artes box office direct (Mon–Sat 11am–7pm, Sun 8.30am–7pm) or through Ticketmaster ( 55 5325 9000,  ticketmaster.com.mx) – or arrange to go with an organized tour, for which you'll pay a considerable premium. 

< Back to Shopping and markets

## MARKETS

Bazar Sábado Plaza San Jacinto, San Ángel; Metrobús Dr Gálvez; map.  Very popular open-air art and sculpture market that operates on Sat only, although pretty much the same market moves lock, stock and barrel the next day (Sun) to Parque Sullivan, just north of the Zona Rosa.  Sat 11am–5pm. 

Coyoacán markets Metro Viveros; map.  There are two interesting markets in Coyoacán: the daily market, three blocks up from Plaza Hidalgo, on Allende between Malintzin/Xicoténcatl and Plaza Hidalgo, is mostly given over to food, although it also sells crafts, clothing and other things; the Mercado de Artesanías, at Carrillo Puerto 25, is a covered market for crafts and street fashion formerly held on Sun in the main square.  Daily market 9am–7pm; Mercado de Artesanías daily (but biggest day Sat) 10am–9pm. 

La Lagunilla Spreading along Rayon, a couple of blocks north of the Plaza Garibaldi; buses ("La Villa") heading north on Reforma, or Metro Garibaldi; map.  Comes closest to rivalling La Merced in size and variety, but is best visited on a Sun when the _tianguis_ expands into the surrounding streets, with more stalls selling stones, used books, crafts and bric-a-brac.  Daily 10am–7pm. 

Mercado de Sonora Three blocks south of La Merced on Fray Servando Teresa de Mier; Metro La Merced; map.  This market is famous for its sale of herbal medicines, medicinal and magical plants, and the _curanderos_ (indigenous herbalists) who go there.  Nowadays you'll find anything from conjuring tricks and novelties to statues of underground religious figures such as La Santa Muerte and Jesús Malverde.  Mon–Sat 8am–7pm, Sun 8am–5pm. 

La Merced Corner of Izazaga San Pablo and Eje 1 Ote; Metro La Merced; map.  The city's largest market, a collection of huge modern buildings, which still can't contain the vast number of traders who want to set up here.  Almost anything you could conceive of finding in a Mexican market (and much more) is sold here, though fruit, vegetables and other foods dominate.  Even if you're not buying you could easily spend half a day browsing metre-diameter columns of _nopal_ leaves as high as a man, stacks of dried chiles and all manner of hardware from juice presses to volcanic-stone mortars known as _molcajetes_.  The Metro takes you right into the heart of things.  Daily 6am–6pm. 

Palacio de las Flores Corner of Luis Moya and Ernesto Pugibet; Metro Salto de Agua or Balderas; map.  A small market selling nothing but flowers – loose, in vast arrangements and wreaths, growing in pots, even paper and plastic.  Similar markets can be found in San Ángel and Xochimilco.  Mon–Sat 8am–8pm, Sun 8am–2pm. 

# THE DEMISE OF HAGGLING

 **Haggling** for a bargain is no longer the thrilling (or daunting) prospect it once was in Mexico City.  The nation's increasing prosperity and sophistication means that most things have fixed prices.  As a tourist (and especially if your Spanish is poor) you can expect people to try to bump up the price occasionally, but on the whole what you see is what you pay. 

< Back to Shopping and markets

## ENGLISH-LANGUAGE BOOKS AND NEWSPAPERS

International weeklies are available downtown from newspaper stands (especially along 5 de Mayo).  Sanborns, dotted all over town, usually have a modest supply of English-language material, much of it business-oriented.  Terminal 1 at the airport has numerous small shops partly stocked with English-language magazines and airport novels, plus a few foreign newspapers. 

American Book Store Bolivar 23, Centro Histórico  55 5512 0306; Metro Allende; map.  Despite the name, their stock of books in English is limited and mostly business or computer-oriented.  OK for a few paperbacks, magazines and newspapers.  Mon–Fri 10am–6.45pm, Sat 10am–5.45pm. 

La Torre del Papel Callejón de Betlemitas 6a, beside the Museo del Ejército y Fuerza, near the central post office; Metro Bellas Artes; map.  Stocks up-to-date newspapers from all over Mexico and Latin America as well as a good showing of US, British, Spanish and Italian newspapers, plus magazines such as _National Geographic_ , _The Economist_ , _Entertainment Weekly_ and _Paris Match_.  Mon–Fri 8am–6pm, Sat 9am–3pm. 

# LA LUCHA LIBRE

Though its popularity has waned in recent years, **lucha libre** , or wrestling, remains one of Mexico's most avidly followed spectator sports.  Over a dozen venues in the capital alone host fights several nights a week for a fanatical public.  Widely available magazines, comics, photonovels and films recount the real and imagined lives of the rings' heroes and villains, though the nightly telecasts are now a thing of the past. 

Mexican wrestling is generally faster, with more complex moves, and more combatants in the ring at any one time than you would normally see in an American or British bout.  This can make the action hard to follow for the uninitiated.  More important, however, is the maintenance of stage personas, most of whom, heroes or villains, wear **masks**.  The _rudos_ tend to use brute force or indulge in sneaky, underhanded tactics to foil the opposition, while the _técnicos_ use wit and guile to compensate for lack of brawn.  This faux battle, not at all unlike WWE on-screen antics, requires a massive suspension of disbelief – crucial if you want to join in the fun. 

One of the most bizarre features of wrestling was the emergence of wrestlers as political figures – typically still in costume.  The most famous of these, **Superbarrio** , arose from the struggle of Mexico City's tenant associations for fair rents and decent housing (after the 1985 earthquake), to become part of mainstream political opposition, even challenging government officials to step into the ring with him, and acting as a sort of unofficial cheerleader at opposition rallies. 

The most famous wrestler of all time, however, was without doubt **El Santo** ("the Saint").  Immortalized in more than twenty movies, with titles such as _El Santo vs the Vampire Women_ , he would fight, eat, drink and play the romantic lead without ever removing his mask, and until after his retirement, he never revealed his identity.  His reputation as a gentleman in and out of the ring was legendary, and his death in 1984 widely mourned.  His funeral was allegedly the second best-attended in Mexican history after that of President Obregón. 

In Mexico City, fights can usually be seen on Tuesdays at the **Arena Coliseo** , Peru 77 (Metro Allende), and on Fridays at the **Arena México** , Dr Lucio 197 at Dr Lavista, Colonia Doctores (two blocks south and one east of Metro Balderas, but not a good area to be in at night).  Tickets are sold on the door. 

< Back to Shopping and markets

# SPORT

Horse racing and rodeo

Football

Bullfighting

 **Sport** is probably the city's biggest obsession, and while **football** , **wrestling** and **bullfighting** are the three leading lights, the sporting calendar doesn't stop there.  One sport that's missing is **Frontón**, which used to be played at Frontón México, on Plaza de la República, but it closed when the players went on strike in 1993, and has never reopened. 

## HORSE RACING AND RODEO

Hipodromo de las Americas Industria Militar, Lomas de Sotelo  55 5387 0600,  hipodromo.com.mx; Metro Cuatro Caminos; map.  Horse racing throughout the year, particularly Sat afternoons; buses and _peseros_ heading west on Reforma will take you there – look for "Hipodromo". 

Rancho del Charro Constituyentes 500 (near the Third Section of Chapultepec Park)  55 5277 8706,  asociacionnacionaldecharros.com; pesero (routes #2, #24 and others) along Constituyentes from Metro Chapultepec; map.  More exciting horse action in the _charreadas_ , or rodeos, put on here by amateur but highly skilled aficionados most weekends (often free); call or check their website to find out what's going on. 

< Back to Sport

## FOOTBALL

Fútbol (football, meaning soccer) is undoubtedly Mexico's most popular sport.  There are usually at least two games every Sun afternoon (Jan–June & Aug–Nov; check local papers for fixture details) and you can almost always get a ticket (M$100–1500) at the gate.  The exceptions are the big games such as major local derbies, and "El Clásico", when América host Chivas from Guadalajara, the biggest team from the country's second-largest city; if you want to be sure of a ticket, they can be bought in advance from Ticketmaster ( 55 5325 9000,  ticketmaster.com.mx). 

Estadio Azteca Tren Ligero or Ruta #26 ("Xochimilco") colectivo, both from Metro Tasqueña; map.  The big games are held at the 114,000-seat Estadio Azteca, which hosted the World Cup finals in 1970 and 1986, and is home to América (Las Águilas, or The Eagles), the nation's most popular and consistently successful club side.  Mexico City's other major team, Atlante (Los Potros, "the Colts"), shares the stadium with América. 

Estadio Azul Metro San Antonio or from Metrobús station Ciudad de los Desportes on Insurgentes; map.  Cruz Azul (known as Los Cementeros for having been started and still owned by a cement company to the north of the city) pack out Estadio Azul right by the city's main bullring. 

Estadio Olímpico "Tlalpan" bus from Metro Chilpancingo; map.  Elsewhere in the city, the university side, UNAM (Las Pumas), have a strong following at the Estadio Olímpico across the road from the university. 

< Back to Sport

## BULLFIGHTING

Plaza México Ciudad de los Deportes  lamexico.com; Metrobús down Insurgentes to Ciudad de los Deportes, or walk 10min east from Metro San Antonio; map.  This giant 48,000-seat arena is the largest bullring in the world, with elaborate posters around town and most major newspapers advertising upcoming events.  Look out too for the weekly coverage of the scene in the press during the season.  Tickets can be bought at the gate and you can pay as little as M$70 for general admission to sunny concrete benches far from the action.  Ten pesos more and you'll have the luxury of some shade, and from there prices rise rapidly the closer you get to the ring, reaching as much as M$700 for a front-row seat in the shade.  During the season (the longer temporada grande, late Oct or early Nov to early April, or the shorter temporada chica, July to early Oct) fights take place every Sun at 4pm. 

# BULLFIGHTING

Soccer and wrestling may be more popular, but there is no event more quintessentially Mexican than the **bullfight**.  Rooted in Spanish machismo and imbued with multiple layers of symbolism and interpretation, it transcends a mere battle of man against animal.  If you don't mind the inherent cruelty of the spectacle (essentially you're watching an animal being artfully tortured to death), it's worth attending a _corrida de toros_ to see this integral part of the Mexican experience.  It is a sport that transcends class barriers; every Sunday afternoon during the winter season men and women from all walks of Mexican society file into the stadium – though some admittedly end up in plush _sombra_ (shade) seats while the masses occupy concrete _sol_ (sun) terraces. 

Each _corrida_ lasts around two hours and involves six bulls, all from one ranch, with each of three matadors taking two bulls.  Typically there will be two Mexican matadors and one from Spain, which still produces the best performers.  Each **fight** is divided into three _suertes_ (acts) or _tercios_ (thirds), each announced by a trumpet blast.  During the first _tercio_ , several _toreros_ with large capes tire the bull in preparation for the _picadores_ who, from their mounts atop heavily padded and blindfolded horses, attempt to force a lance between the bull's shoulder blades to further weaken him.  The _toreros_ then return for the second _tercio_ , in which one of their number (and sometimes the matador himself) will try to stab six metal-tipped spikes (known as _bandilleras_ ) into the bull in as clean and elegant a manner as possible. 

Exhausted and frustrated, but by no means docile, the bull is now considered ready for the third and final _tercio_ , the _suerte de muleta._  The matador continues to tire the bull while pulling off as many graceful and daring moves as possible.  By now the crowd will have sensed the bravery and finesse of the matador and the spirit of the bull he is up against, and shouts of "¡Olé!"  will reverberate around the stadium with every pass.  Eventually the matador will entice the bull to challenge him head-on, standing there with its hooves together.  As it charges he will thrust his sword between its shoulder blades and, if it is well executed, the bull will crumple to the sand.  However barbaric you might think it is, no one likes to see the bull suffer and even the finest performance will garner the matador little praise without a clean kill.  Successful matadors may be awarded one of the bull's ears, rarely two, and perhaps two or three times a season the tail as well.  An especially courageous bull may be spared and put out to stud, a cause for much celebration, but this is a rare spectacle. 

< Back to Sport

# DIRECTORY

Banks and exchange ATMs are widespread.  If using a bank, note that many will only change money in the morning, and may not change currencies other than US dollars; Banamex is generally your best bet.  Most large hotels and shops will change dollar travellers' cheques and cash dollars, but the quickest and easiest places to change money are _casas de cambio_ , scattered all over town.  In the _centro histórico_ try CI Banco, Madero 27, at Bolivar (Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 10am–4pm), or Cambios Exchange, at Madero 13, near Gante (Mon–Sat 9.30am–7pm, Sun 10am–6pm).  You'll find several in the Zona Rosa, especially on Amberes, Londres and Liverpool, and a couple on the south side of Reforma, just south of the Monumento a la Revolución. 

Courier services DHL, Madero 70-C, Centro Histórico  800 765 6345,  dhl.com.mx; FedEx, Reforma 308, Zona Rosa (Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat 9am–2pm), and other locations ( 800 900 1100,  fedex.com/mx_english). 

Cultural institutes Several countries maintain cultural institutes and libraries for their nationals within Mexico City, often allowing short-term visitors to use some of their facilities.  They can also be useful places for contacts, and if you're looking for work, long-term accommodation or travelling companions, their notice boards are good places to start.  The US has the Biblioteca Benjamín Franklin, Liverpool 31, at Berlin (Mon–Fri 10am–7pm;  55 5592 3483,  usembassy-mexico.gov/biblioteca; Metro Cuauhtémoc); the UK has the British Council, Lope de Vega 316, Chapultepec (Mon–Fri 8am–7pm;  55 5263 1900; Metro Polanco). 

Embassies and consulates Australia, Rubén Darío 55, Polanco ( 55 1101 2200,  mexico.embassy.gov.au; Metro Auditorio); Belize, Bernardo de Gálves 215, Lomas de Chapultepec ( 55 5520 1274,  embelize@prodigy.net.mx); Canada, Schiller 529, Polanco ( 55 5724 7900, toll-free emergency number for Canadians  001 800 514 0129,  canadainternational.gc.ca/mexico-mexique; Metro Polanco); Guatemala, Explanada 1025, Lomas de Chapultepec ( 55 5520 6680,  embajadaguatemalamx.mex.tl); Ireland, Manuel Avila Camacho 76 3°, Lomas de Chapultepec ( 55 5520 5803,  irishembassy.com.mx; Metro Polanco or Auditorio); New Zealand, Jaime Balmes 8 4°, Polanco ( 55 5283 9460,  nzembassy.com/mexico; Metro Polanco); South Africa, Andrés Bello 10 9°, Polanco ( 55 1100 4970,  safrica@prodigy.net.mx; Metro Polanco); UK, Río Lerma 71, consular section at Rio Usumacinta 30, Cuauhtémoc ( 55 1670 3200,  ukinmexico.fco.gov.uk/en; Metro Insurgentes); US, Reforma 305 at Danubio, Zona Rosa ( 55 5080 2000,  mexico.usembassy.gov; Metro Insurgentes). 

Emergencies All emergency services (police, fire, ambulance)  080; police  060; fire department  068; Red Cross ambulance  065; Locatel, which gives information on missing persons and vehicles, medical emergencies, emotional crises and public services  55 5658 1111,  locatel.df.gob.mx; tourist helpline  55 5250 0123 or  55 5250 0151. 

Hospitals The American-British Cowdray Hospital (ABC) is at the junction of Observatorio and Sur 136, Col Las Américas ( 55 5230 8000,  abchospital.com; Metro Observatorio).  Embassies should be able to provide a list of multilingual doctors if necessary.  As for pharmacies, Sanborns offers a wide range of products at most branches, as well as dispensing some prescription drugs.  Other options include El Fénix, Madero 41 (at Motolinia;  55 5527 0060), and Isabel la Católica 15 (at 5 de Mayo;  55 5527 0060).  There are homeopathic pharmacies at Mesones 111-B (at 20 Noviembre;  55 5542 2755) and República Guatemala 16 (behind the cathedral;  55 5512 3527). 

Internet Cybercafés generally charge around M$10–15/hr.  Those in the suburbs (there are several in Xochimilco, for example) tend to be slightly cheaper than those in town.  In the centre, most places are closed at weekends; options include: Internet Express, ground floor, Centro Comercial Bialos, Donceles 87, on the corner of Brasil (Mon–Sat 10am–6pm; M$20/hr; Metro Zócalo or Allende); Lafoel Internet Service, Donceles 80, at Brasil (Mon–Fri 9am–9pm; M$25/hr; Metro Zócalo or Allende); Alegro, Tacuba 849 (Mon–Fri 9am–8pm; M$25/hr; Metro Allende).  In the Zona Rosa, there are several inside the roundabout at Glorieta Insurgentes, all charging around M$20/hr. 

Laundry Self-service launderettes are surprisingly rare in Mexico City, but most hotels should be able to point one out.  Options include: La Maquina, 2nd floor, Centro Comercial Bialos, Donceles 87, on the corner of Brasil (Mon–Fri 8am–6pm, Sat 9am–2pm); and Lavandería Automática Edison, Edison 91, at Arriaga, near the Plaza de la República (Mon–Fri 9am–7pm, Sat 9am–6pm; Metro Revolución). 

Left luggage Most hotels will hold your bags for the rest of the day after you've checked out, and some will allow you to leave excess luggage for several days, sometimes for a small charge.  All four main bus terminals and both airport terminals have left-luggage facilities, though prices vary vastly (the Central del Norte is the cheapest). 

Photographic supplies For specialist needs, head to C Donceles, between Republica de Argentina and Allende, or Foto Regis at Juárez 80, on the south side of the Alameda ( fotoregis.com). 

Post office The main post office is on Lázaro Cárdenas at Tacuba, across the street from Bellas Artes (Mon–Fri 8am–5.30pm, Sat 8am–1.30pm).  Branch offices (Mon–Fri 8am–4.30pm, Sat 8.30am–noon) can be found at Ponciano Arriaga 11, near the Revolution Monument, and Higuera 23 in Coyoacán, among other places.  For speedier and more reliable delivery (though a lot more expensive, of course), see "Courier services". 

Spanish courses There are many Spanish courses in the city, though most people prefer to study in such places as Cuernavaca, San Miguel de Allende and Guanajuato.  For those who prefer the metropolis, the most prestigious language school in town is the Universidad Autonomo's Centro de Enseñanza para Extranjeros, located at Universidad 3002 in the Ciudad Universitaria ( 55 5622 2470,  cepe.unam.mx).  Also worth checking out is  planeta.com/mexico.html, which has good links to Mexican language schools. 

Telephones Local, domestic long-distance and international phone calls can be made from any public phone with a phonecard.  Cheaper international calls can be made via the internet, though very few internet locales offer this service – those which do include a couple inside the roundabout at Glorieta Insurgentes.  Otherwise, a number of shops have public phones (for international services look for the blue "Larga Distancia" signs).  You can dial direct from most big hotels, but it will cost much more. _ Casetas de larga distancia_ are closing down in the face of widespread use of cardphones. 

Visas and tourist cards Should you lose your tourist card, or want an extension, apply, when your original length of stay is almost finished, to the Instituto de Migración, Ejército National 862, at the western end of Polanco (Mon–Fri 9am–1pm;  800 004 6264; _peseros_ from Chapultepec to Toreo run along Ejército Nacional).  Extensions are pretty much routine if the period is two weeks or less, and should take around half an hour; go to desk D23 – "Ampliación de Estancia".  Longer extensions will require copies, form filling and possibly an onward ticket or proof of sufficient funds. 

Travel agencies A particularly good firm for youth and student fares is Mundo Joven ( mundojoven.com), with offices at Guatemala 4 behind the cathedral ( 55 5518 1755), Eugenio Sue 342, at Homero in Polanco ( 55 5250 7191), and Terminal 1, Sala E2 in the airport ( 55 2599 0155). 

# FIESTAS IN MEXICO CITY

Día de los Santos Reyes (Jan 6).  Celebrations include a fiesta with dancing at Nativitas, a suburb near Xochimilco. 

Bendicíon de los Animales (Jan 17).  Children's pets and peasants' farm animals are taken to the cathedral to be blessed. 

Día de San Pedro (June 29).  Marked by traditional dancing in San Pedro Actopan, on the southern outskirts of the DF. 

Día de Santa Marta (July 25).  Celebrated in Milpa Alta, near Xochimilco, with Aztec dances and mock fights between Moors and Christians. 

Independence Day (Sept 15).  The president of the republic proclaims the famous Grito at 11pm in the Zócalo, followed by the ringing of the Campana de Dolores and a huge firework display. 

Día de Santa Cecilia (Nov 22).  Santa Cecilia is the patron saint of musicians, and her fiesta attracts orchestras and mariachi bands from all over to Santa Cecilia Tepetlapa, near Xochimilco. 

Día de la Señora de Guadalupe (Dec 12).  The saint's day of Mexico's favourite Virgin heralds a massive pilgrimage to the Basilica of Guadalupe, running for several days, with a more secular celebration of music and dancing. 

< Back to Directory

# MEXICO BASICS

Getting there

Entry requirements

Getting around

Accommodation

Crime and personal safety

Health

Food and drink

The media

Festivals

Sports and outdoor activities

Culture and etiquette

Shopping

Travelling with children

Travel essentials

This section has all the practical details you'll need on Mexico as a whole, including information on getting there, advice on getting around if Mexico is one stop on a longer trip, overviews of the accommodation and eating scenes and guidance on everything from internet access to time zones. 

## Getting there

Flights from the US and Canada

Flights from the UK and Ireland

From Australia, New Zealand and South Africa

Trains

Buses

Driving

Boats

The quickest and easiest way to get to Mexico is to fly.  If you're willing to have your journey take a little longer, it is also possible to travel overland from the US via train, bus or car, or by water – several cruise lines stop along the country's Pacific and (to a lesser extent) Caribbean coasts. 

To some extent, airfares to Mexico depend on the **season**.  Ticket prices to Mexico City and other non-resort destinations show little, if any, fluctuation.  Some fares though, especially to resort areas, do vary; they tend to be highest around Easter, from early June to mid-September and at Christmas and New Year.  Prices may drop during the "shoulder" seasons – mid-September to early November and mid-April to early June – and the best deals are usually available during the low season (November to April, excluding Christmas and New Year).  Flying at weekends can also sometimes add to round-trip fares; the round-trip prices quoted here assume mid-week travel and include tax. 

# A BETTER KIND OF TRAVEL

At Rough Guides we are passionately committed to travel.  We believe it helps us understand the world we live in and the people we share it with – and of course tourism is vital to many developing economies.  But the scale of modern tourism has also damaged some places irreparably, and climate change is accelerated by most forms of transport, especially flying.  All Rough Guides' flights are carbon-offset, and every year we donate money to a variety of environmental charities. 

### Flights from the US and Canada

From most places in North America, flying is the most convenient way to reach Mexico.  There are **flights** from just about every major **US** city, with the least expensive and most frequent leaving from "gateway" cities in the south and west, especially Dallas, Houston, Los Angeles and Miami.  If you live close to the border, it's usually cheaper to cross into Mexico and take an **internal flight**.  If it's a resort that you want, you may well find that one of the airlines offers an attractive deal including a few nights' accommodation. 

Aeroméxico ( aeromexico.com) flies direct to dozens of destinations in Mexico, and can make connections to many others.  The bigger US airlines – especially American Airlines ( aa.com), Delta ( delta.com), United ( united.com) and US Airways ( usairways.com) – have connections to Mexico City and the more popular resorts from all over the US.  Budget Mexican airlines, such as Viva Aerobus ( vivaaerobus.com), Volaris ( volaris.mx) and Interjet ( interjet.com), also run flights into Mexico from a handful of American cities. 

For the lowest-priced round trip to Mexico City or Cancún in high season, expect to pay around US$420–450 out of Dallas, US$450–500 from Miami, US$400–500 from Houston, US$550–650 from New York or US$400–500 from LA.  There are direct flights to many parts of Mexico from numerous other US airports, but adding a feeder flight from any US or Canadian city to one of the main gateways should be straightforward. 

There are fewer direct scheduled flights from **Canada** to Mexico, although Air Canada ( aircanada.com) flies to Mexico City from Toronto and Vancouver, and Aeroméxico flies there from Montréal.  Air Canada also serves Cancún from Toronto and Montréal.  However, the biggest choice of direct flights is offered by WestJet ( westjet.com), which does not serve Mexico City, but does have flights to Cancún and several other beach resorts from a number of Canadian airports, supplemented in some cases by Sunwing ( flysunwing.com), Air Transat ( airtransat.ca), and winter charter flights.  Flying via the US expands your options further. 

Typical lowest high-season round-trip fares to Mexico City or Cancún cost around Can$530–600 from Toronto, Can$550–620 from Montreal or Can$700–800 from Vancouver. 

< Back to Getting there

# ROUGH GUIDES ONLINE

Find everything you need to plan your next trip at  roughguides.com.  Read in-depth information on destinations worldwide, make use of our unique trip-planner, book transport and accommodation, check out other travellers' recommendations and share your own experiences. 

### Flights from the UK and Ireland

BA ( britishairways.com) has direct scheduled flights from London to Mexico City and Cancún; Virgin ( virgin-atlantic.com) has direct flights to Cancún.  There are also (generally cheaper) charter flights to Cancún from Gatwick, Birmingham and Manchester with Thomson ( thomson.co.uk) and Thomas Cook ( thomascook.com).  Flying from anywhere else in the UK or Ireland, or to any other destination in Mexico, you will have to change planes somewhere. 

Even from London, although a direct flight is easiest, it can be cheaper to take an indirect flight with a European or US carrier.  From other British and Irish airports, you can either fly via London with BA, or use a European or North American airline, changing planes at their hub cities (Air Europa, for example, codeshares with Aeroméxico via Madrid;  aireuropa.com).  Another possibility is to fly via the US and either continue overland or buy an onward flight once in the country.  LA and Houston are logical points from which to set off overland, and, along with Miami, have reasonably priced onward flights to several Mexican destinations. ** Prices** for scheduled return flights from London to Mexico City start at around £550 off-season, but can cost around £900 in August.  A charter flight to Cancún can cost as little as £450 in low season, but up to £800 in August, and your stay will probably be limited to one or two weeks. 

If flying via the US, it's worth checking if your transatlantic carrier has an **airpass** deal for non-US residents – most major US airlines do – by which you purchase coupons at a flat rate for a certain number of flights in North America (with a usual minimum of three).  Depending on the airline, the pass will usually also include one or more destinations in Mexico and Canada. 

< Back to Getting there

### From Australia, New Zealand and South Africa

The **high season** for flights to Mexico from the southern hemisphere is mid-June to mid-July and mid-December to mid-January, though prices do not vary vastly between seasons.  There are no direct flights to Mexico from Australia, New Zealand or South Africa, so you will have to change planes somewhere en route. 

From **Australia** , your widest choice of airlines is out of Sydney, where there are flights to Mexico with Delta ( delta.com) via LA or Houston, with United ( united.com) via LA, with Air Canada ( aircanada.com) via Vancouver, or with LAN ( lan.com) via Santiago de Chile.  United also serve Melbourne.  Otherwise, you can fly with Qantas ( qantas.com.au) from almost any Australian airport to LA, continuing to Mexico with an American or Mexican airline.  Prices start at around Aus$1500 for the round trip. 

From **New Zealand** , your choice is very similar: Air Canada via Vancouver, an American airline via LA or Auckland to LA with Air New Zealand ( airnewzealand.com), continuing with a Mexican or American airline.  From other New Zealand airports, you will probably need to change planes additionally at Auckland or Sydney.  Prices start from around NZ$1700 return. 

From **South Africa** , your most direct route is with Delta or United from Johannesburg via the US, or on SAA ( flysaa.com) in combination with an American or Mexican airline.  You can also fly with a European airline such as KLM ( klm.com), Lufthansa ( lufthansa.com) or British Airways ( britishairways.com) via their hubs in Europe.  From other South African airports, you'll usually have to fly via Johannesburg.  Fares start at around R14,000 return. 

< Back to Getting there

### Trains

US passenger **train** services reach the border at El Paso, on the LA–Dallas line.  El Paso is served by Amtrak's _Sunset Limited_ service three times weekly from New Orleans, Houston, Tucson and LA.  The _Sunset Limited_ also picks up Amtrak's _Texas Eagle_ (from Chicago, St Louis, Little Rock and Dallas) overnight at San Antonio.  The journey takes just over sixteen hours from LA, nineteen and a half from Houston, or – including an eight-hour layover in San Antonio – 26.5 hours from Dallas and 48.5 hours from Chicago. 

Arrivals on these services (around 8am from LA, 4.15pm from Chicago and New Orleans) give you time to cross the border, have something to eat in Ciudad Juárez and catch a bus on to Mexico City. 

Check current timetables with Amtrak ( 1 800 872 7245,  amtrak.com). 

< Back to Getting there

### Buses

US **bus** travel is pretty grim compared to the relative comfort of Amtrak, but you have a wider range of US border posts to choose from.  Count on at least 52 hours' journey time from New York to El Paso or twelve hours from San Francisco to Tijuana – and at least a further day's travel from either point to Mexico City. 

Greyhound ( 1 800 231 2222 or  1 214 849 8100,  greyhound.com) runs regularly to all the major border crossings.  Some of their buses will also take you over the frontier to a Mexican bus station, which saves a lot of hassle.  Greyhound agents abroad should be able to reserve your through tickets with their Mexican counterparts, which is even more convenient but involves pre-planning.  Additionally, many Mexican bus companies cross the border into the US, so that you can pick up a bus to Mexico City as far north as Houston or LA. 

More countercultural, and arguably better value, are overland tours from San Francisco with Green Tortoise Adventure Travel ( 1 800 867 8647,  greentortoise.com).  Converted school buses provide reasonably comfortable transport and sleeping space for up to 35 people; the clientele comes from all over the world, and communal alfresco cooking is the rule. 

# BORDER CROSSINGS

There are some forty **frontier posts** along the US–Mexico border.  Many of them are only open during the day, and are more or less inaccessible without your own transport.  For a full list, see  apps.cbp.gov/bwt.  The main ones, open 24 hours a day, seven days a week, are, from west to east:

San Diego, California (San Ysidro)– **Tijuana** , Baja California. 

Calexico, California– **Mexicali** , Baja California. 

Nogales, Arizona– **Nogales** , Sonora. 

Douglas, Arizona– **Agua Prieta** , Sonora. 

El Paso, Texas– **Ciudad Juárez** , Chihuahua. 

Laredo, Texas– **Nuevo Laredo** , Tamaulipas. 

Brownsville, Texas– **Matamoros** , Tamaulipas. 

## BORDER PRACTICALITIES

Crossing the border, especially on foot, it's easy to go straight past the immigration and customs checks.  There's a **free zone** south of the frontier, and you can cross at will and stay for up to three days.  If, as likely, you're heading further south, however, be sure to stop at the Mexican immigration office, pay the M$295 entry fee ( _derecho de no inmigrante_ ), pick up a **tourist card (FMM)** , and get it stamped and your bags checked.  Otherwise, you'll be stopped after some 20km and sent back to complete the formalities. 

## TROUBLED AREAS

The area bordering the US, particularly **Ciudad Juárez** , and also Tijuana, are some of the biggest hot spots in Mexico's **drugs war**.  Extra caution should be exercised when crossing this area, especially by car. 

< Back to Getting there

### Driving

Taking your own **car** into Mexico will obviously give you a great deal more freedom, but it's an option fraught with complications.  Aside from border formalities, you'll also have to contend with the state of the roads, the style of driving and the quality of the fuel. 

#### Licences and permits

Driving licences from the US, Canada, the UK, Ireland, Australia, New Zealand and most European countries are valid in Mexico, but it's a good idea to arm yourself with an **International Driving Licence** – available from motoring organizations such as the AAA in the US, the CAA in Canada or the AA in Britain.  If you fall foul of a Mexican traffic cop for any reason, show that first; if they abscond with it you at least still have your own licence. 

As a rule, you can drive in Baja California, western Sonora and the Zona Libre (the border area extending roughly 25km into Mexico) without any special formalities.  To drive elsewhere in Mexico, however, you must obtain a temporary **importation permit** (currently US$48.84) at the border, or online at  banjercito.com.mx (click on "Application for Temporary Import Permit for vehicles, boats and RVs"). 

To make sure you don't sell the car in Mexico or a neighbouring country, you'll also be required to post a cash bond, the amount of which will depend on the make and age of your vehicle, though it will be at least US$400 for a car less than five years old.  This can be done in cash (US dollars only), or with the credit or debit card of the owner of the vehicle (who must be present), at Banjército, the Mexican army bank, which has offices at border posts specifically for the purpose.  You'll need to show registration and title documents for the car, plus your driver's licence and passport, and you'll probably be asked to supply two photocopies of these as well as your tourist card. 

The permits are good for 180 days, during which time you can drive your car out of Mexico and return, but there are penalties in force if you exceed the limit, including forfeiture of your vehicle, and you must be sure to have your importation permit terminated when you finally do leave, or the authorities may assume your vehicle is still in the country; if you write it off while you are in Mexico, you need to inform Mexican customs and obtain permission to leave without it. 

#### Insurance

US and Canadian **auto insurance** policies don't cover Mexico, so you will need to take out a Mexican policy, available from numerous agencies on either side of every border post.  Rates depend on the value of the vehicle and what kind of coverage you want, but figure on US$10–20 or so a day for basic liability on a short trip.  To arrange a policy before leaving the US, call Instant Mexico Insurance Services ( 1 800 345 4701,  instant-mex-auto-insur.com), International Gateway ( 1 619 271 0572,  igib.com), Oscar Padilla Mexican Insurance ( 1 800 466 7227,  mexicaninsurance.com), or the acknowledged leader in the field, Sanborn's Insurance ( 1 800 222 0158,  sanbornsinsurance.com). 

To get discounts on insurance, it might be worth joining a travel club, such as Discover Baja Travel Club ( 1 800 727 2252,  discoverbaja.com) or Sanborn's Sombrero Club ( 1 800 222 0158).  These clubs typically also offer discounts on accommodation and free travel advice. 

The American and Canadian AAs produce road maps and route planners for travel to Mexico, and members may qualify for discounted insurance at affiliated border agencies, but their emergency/breakdown services do not cover you once you are inside Mexico. 

< Back to Getting there

### Boats

If you want to **sail** to Mexico in your own boat, similar conditions apply to those in effect for motor vehicles. 

Alternatively, you could take a **cruise**.  Several lines offer cruises on the Pacific coast, most popularly between LA and Acapulco, stopping at Los Cabos, Mazatlán, Puerto Vallarta and Zihuatanejo.  Others ply the Caribbean side out of Miami, taking in Cozumel, Playa del Carmen and other Mexican destinations.  Prices start at around US$500 per person for a week-long cruise, plus airfare to the starting point, and go (way) up from there.  Agencies specializing in cruises include those listed below. 

# AGENTS AND OPERATORS

Cathy Matos Mexican Tours UK  020 3592 6917,  mextours.co.uk.  A wide variety of tailor-made tours, including colonial cities, beaches, sightseeing and archeology, whale watching and destination weddings. 

Journey Latin America UK  020 3432 6049,  journeylatinamerica.co.uk.  Well-established Latin America specialists offering a range of itineraries throughout the country, including ones focusing on the country's Maya and Aztec heritage. 

My Mexico Tours US  1 831 476 9693,  mymexicotours.com.  A range of interesting small-group tours, on and off the beaten track, with an emphasis on getting to know the country. 

North South Travel UK  01245 608 291,  northsouthtravel.co.uk.  Friendly, competitive travel agency, offering discounted fares.  Profits are used to support projects in the developing world, especially promoting sustainable tourism. 

STA Travel UK  0871 230 0040; US  1 800 781 4040; Australia  134 782; New Zealand  0800 474 400; South Africa  0861 781 781,  statravel.co.uk.  Independent travel specialists, offering good discounts for students and under-26s. 

Trailfinders UK  020 7368 1200, Ireland  01 677 7888, Australia  1300 780 212,  trailfinders.com.  One of the best-informed and most efficient agents for independent travellers. 

Travel Cuts Canada  1 800 667 2887, US  1 800 592 2887,  travelcuts.com.  Canadian youth and student travel firm. 

USIT Ireland  01 602 1906, Northern Ireland  028 9032 7111,  usit.ie.  Ireland's main youth and student travel specialists. 

< Back to Boats

# CRUISE LINE CONTACTS

Carnival Cruise Lines US & Canada  1 800 764 7419, UK  0843 374 2272, Australia  1 300 385 624  carnival.com. 

Holland America US & Canada  1 877 932 4259, UK  0845 351 0557,  hollandamerica.com. 

Royal Caribbean Cruises US & Canada  1 866 562 7625, UK  0844 493 4005, Australia  1 800 754 500,  royalcaribbean.com. 

< Back to Mexico Basics

## Entry requirements

Tourist cards and the derecho do no inmigrante

Customs

Citizens of the US, Canada, the UK, Ireland, Australia, New Zealand, Japan and most EU countries do not need **visas** to enter Mexico as tourists for less than 180 days.  Other Europeans can stay for ninety days.  Non-US citizens travelling via the US, however, may need a US visa. 

Visas, obtainable only through a consulate (in person or by mail), are required by nationals of South Africa and many developing countries, as well as by anyone entering Mexico to work, to study or for stays longer than six months.  Business visitors usually need a Business Authorization Card available from consulates, but nationals of countries exempt from a tourist visa can enter on business for up to thirty days on a tourist card.  For more detailed information on who needs a visa, visit the website of the Instituto Nacional de Migración at  inm.gob.mx (click on "English" top right). 

# US VISAS

Non-US citizens travelling via the US may need a **US visa** , even if they will only be In the country in transit.  Citizens of the UK, Ireland, Australia, New Zealand and most Western European countries can enter under the Visa Waiver Program.  Apply well in advance at  esta.cbp.dhs.gov/esta.  South African citizens need to obtain a visa.  Visit the website of the US embassy in your country of residence for further details. 

### Tourist cards and the derecho do no inmigrante

All visitors, regardless of nationality, need a valid **passport** and a **tourist card** (or FMM – _Forma Migratoria Múltiple_ ).  The only exception applies to visits of less than three days to the 20km, duty-free strip adjoining the US border, into which you can come and go more or less as you please (though you still need a passport or photo ID).  Visitors entering by land and passing beyond this Zona Libre (you'll be sent back at a checkpoint if you haven't been through customs and immigration) are also required to pay a M$295 _derecho de no inmigrante_ entry fee, payable at a bank.  Some land crossings have a bank at the border post, otherwise you'll need to go to a bank to pay it before you leave Mexico. 

Tourist cards are otherwise free, and if you're flying direct, you should get one on the plane or from the airline before leaving.  A good travel agent should be able to arrange one for you, too, and they're also issued by Mexican consulates (every major US city and most border towns have one), in person or by post.  Finally, failing all these options, you should be able to get tourist cards at airports or border crossings on arrival.  However, if they've run out, you'll have to twiddle your thumbs until the next batch comes in, and if your passport is not issued by a rich Western country, you may encounter difficulty in persuading border officials to give you a card at all; it's therefore preferable to get one in advance.  Entering from Belize or Guatemala, it's not unknown for border posts to run out of tourist cards, or for officials to (illegally) demand a fee for issuing them.  To find the address of an embassy or consulate not listed below, see under "Representaciones" at  sre.gob.mx. 

Most people officially need a **passport** to pick up their tourist card, but for US and Canadian citizens entering by land, all that's required is proof of citizenship (an original birth certificate or notarized copy, for instance, or naturalization papers), along with some form of photo ID (such as a driver's licence).  Passports are still best, however. 

A tourist card is valid for a **single entry** only, so if you intend to enter and leave Mexico more than once you should pick up two or three.  On the card, you are asked how long you intend to stay.  Always apply for longer than you need, since getting an extension is a frustrating and time-consuming business.  You don't always get the time you've asked for, and at land borders with Belize and Guatemala they sometimes only give fifteen or thirty days (though they may give you more if you specifically ask).  Immigration officers sometimes ask to see bank statements or other proof of sufficient funds for your stay, especially if they judge that you do not look sufficiently wealthy (or are from a developing country). 

Don't lose the tourist card stub that is given back to you after immigration inspection.  You are legally required to carry it at all times, and if you have to show your papers, it's more important than your passport.  It also has to be handed in on leaving the country – without it, you may encounter problems and delays.  Note that, contrary to what crooked border officials may tell you, there is no exit fee when leaving Mexico. 

Should you lose your tourist card, or need to have it renewed, head for the nearest **immigration department office** (Departamento de Migración); there are branches in the biggest cities.  In the case of renewal, it's far simpler to cross any of Mexico's borders (or even fly to Cuba or Jamaica) for a day and get a new card on re-entry than to apply for an extension; if you do apply to the immigration department, it's wise to do so a couple of weeks in advance, though you may be told to come back nearer the actual expiration date.  Whatever else you may be told, branches of SECTUR (the tourist office) cannot renew expired tourist cards or replace lost ones – they will only direct you to the nearest immigration office. 

# MEXICAN CONSULATES AND EMBASSIES ABROAD

Australia 14 Perth Ave, Yarralumla, Canberra, ACT 2600  02 6273 3963,  mexico.org.au. 

Belize Corner of Wilson St and Newtown Barracks, Belize City  223 0193,  embamex.sre.gob.mx/belice. 

Canada 45 O'Connor St, Suite 1000, Ottawa, ON K1P 1A4  1 613 233 8988,  embamex.sre.gob.mx/canada; 2055 Peel, Suite 1000, Montreal, PQ H3A 1V4  1 514 288 2502,  consulmex.sre.gob.mx/montreal; 11 King St W, Suite 350, Commerce Court W, Toronto, ON M5H 4C7  1 416 368 2875,  consulmex.sre.gob.mx/toronto; 1177 W Hastings St, Suite 411, Vancouver, BC V6E 2K3  1 604 684 3547,  consulmex.sre.gob.mx/vancouver; 833 4th Ave SW, Suite 1100, Calgary, AL T2P 3T5  1 403 264 4819,  consulmex.sre.gob.mx/calgary. 

Cuba 518 C 12 (at the corner of Ave 7ma), Reparto Miramar, Municipio Playa, Havana  204 7722,  embamex.sre.gob.mx/cuba. 

Guatemala 7–57 2ª Av, Zona 10, Apartado Postal 01010, Guatemala City  2420 3400,  embamex.sre.gob.mx/guatemala; 5 C 17–24, Zona 3, Quetzaltenango  7767 5542 to 4,  consulmex.sre.gob.mx/quetzaltenango; 3-A Av 4-74, Zona 1, Tecún Umán  7776 8114,  consulmex.sre.gob.mx/tecunuman. 

Ireland 19 Raglan Rd, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4  01 667 3105,  embamex.sre.gob.mx/irlanda. 

New Zealand 185–187 Featherston St, Level 2 (AMP Chambers), Wellington  04 472 0555,  embamex.sre.gob.mx/nuevazelandia. 

South Africa Parkdev Building, Brooklyn Bridge, 570 Fehrsen St, Brooklyn, Pretoria 0181  012 460 1004,  embamex.sre.gob.mx/sudafrica. 

UK 16 St George St, London W1S 1FD  020 7499 8586,  embamex.sre.gob.mx/reinounido. 

USA 1911 Pennsylvania Ave NW, Washington, DC 20006  1 202 728 1600,  embamex.sre.gob.mx/eua; and in nearly fifty other US towns and cities, including these near the border:

Arizona 1201 F Ave, Douglas, AZ 85607  1 520 364 3107,  consulmex.sre.gob.mx/douglas; 135 W Cardwell St, Nogales, AZ 85621  1 602 287 2521,  consulmex.sre.gob.mx/nogales. 

California 408 Heber Ave, Calexico, CA 92231–2811  1 760 357 3863,  consulmex.sre.gob.mx/calexico; 1549 India St, San Diego, CA 92101  1 619 231 8414,  consulmex.sre.gob.mx/sandiego. 

Texas 301 Mexico Bvd, Suite F-2, Brownsville, TX 78520  1 956 542 4431,  consulmex.sre.gob.mx/brownsville; 2398 Texas Spur 239, Del Rio, TX 78840–8980  1 830 775 2352 or  1 866 701 7777,  consulmex.sre.gob.mx/delrio; 2252 E Garrison St, Eagle Pass, TX 78852  1 830 773 9255 or 6,  consulmex.sre.gob.mx/eaglepass; 910 E San Antonio Ave, El Paso, TX 79901  1 915 549 0003,  consulmex.sre.gob.mx/elpaso; 1612 Farragut St, Laredo, TX 78040  1 956 723 6369,  consulmex.sre.gob.mx/laredo; 600 S Broadway St, McAllen, TX 78501  1 956 686 0243,  consulmex.sre.gob.mx/mcallen; 127 Navarro St, San Antonio, TX 78205  1210 227 9145 or 6,  consulmex.sre.gob.mx/sanantonio. 

< Back to Entry requirements

### Customs

Duty-free allowances into Mexico include: 20 packets of cigarettes, 25 cigars or 300g of tobacco; three litres of alcoholic drinks or six litres of wine; two cameras; one laptop; and three mobile phones.  If you are carrying more than US$10,000 with you, you must declare it.  For full details, see  aduanas.gob.mx (click on "English" top right).  Leaving Mexico, note that it is illegal to take antiquities (including Aztec and Maya artefacts) out of the country, and penalties are serious. 

< Back to Mexico Basics

## Getting around

By bus

By air

By rail

By boat

By car

By bike

Local transport

Distances in Mexico can be huge, and if you're intending to travel on public transport, you should be prepared for some very long journeys.  Getting from Tijuana to Mexico City, for example, can take nearly two days nonstop by bus.  Although public transport at ground level is frequent and reasonably efficient everywhere, taking an internal flight at least once may be worthwhile for the time it saves. 

### By bus

Within Mexico, **buses** (long-distance buses are called _camiones_ rather than _autobuses_ in Mexican Spanish) are by far the most common and efficient form of public transport.  The legendary craziness of Mexican bus drivers is largely a thing of the past, and many bus companies have installed warning lights and buzzers to indicate when the driver is exceeding the speed limit (though these are often ignored by the driver).  In recent years the government has been trying to improve the safety record through regular mechanical checks and also with random alcohol and drug tests on the drivers. 

# BANDITRY: A WARNING

You should be aware when driving in Mexico, especially in a foreign vehicle, of the danger of **bandits**.  Robberies and even more serious assaults on motorists do occur, above all in the northwest and especially in the state of Sinaloa.  This was something tragically highlighted in late 2015 when two Australian travellers driving through Sinaloa were stopped, robbed and shot dead by a gang.  Robbers may try to make you stop by indicating that there is something wrong with your vehicle; they've also been known to pose as policemen, hitchhikers and motorists in distress, so think twice about offering a lift or a helping hand.  On the other hand, there are plenty of legitimate police checkpoints along the main roads, where you must stop, and increased security (to combat the drug cartels) has very much reduced hold-ups of buses.  Robbers mainly target cargo trucks rather than private cars, but it is nonetheless best to avoid driving at night, particularly in the north of the country, but also in Michoacán and Guerrero, on Hwy-200 along the Pacific coast from Jalisco to Oaxaca, and on Hwy-57 (Mexico City–San Luis Potosí–Matahuela).  It's always safer to use a toll ( _cuota_ ) highway than a free one.  The US State Department currently advises its citizens to avoid travelling at night on highways anywhere in the country. 

#### Classes

There are basically two **classes** of bus, first ( _primera_ ) and second ( _segunda_ ), though on major long-distance routes there's often little to differentiate them.  First-class vehicles have reserved seats, videos and air-conditioning (which can be fierce – you may want a jumper), though an increasing number of second-class lines have the same comforts.  The main differences will be in the number of stops – second-class buses call at more places, and consequently take longer to get where they're going – and the fare, which is about ten percent higher on first-class services (sometimes a lot more).  On important routes there are also **deluxe** , or **pullman** , buses, with names like _Primera Plus_ or _Turistar Plus_ and fares around thirty percent higher than those of first-class buses. 

#### Stations

Most towns of any size have a modern **bus station** , known as the **Central Camionera** or **Central de Autobuses**.  Don't let the word "central" fool you, as they are usually located a long way from the town centre.  Where there is no unified terminus you may find separate first- and second-class terminals, or individual ones for each company, sometimes little more than bus stops at the side of the road.  There is some form of baggage deposit (left luggage) office in most bus stations – usually known as a guardería, _consigna_ or simply _equipaje_.  Before leaving anything, make sure that the place will be open when you come to collect your bags.  If there's no formal facility, staff at the bus companies' baggage dispatching offices can often be persuaded to look after your things for a short while. 

#### Tickets

Always check your route and arrival time, and whenever possible buy **tickets** from the bus station in advance to get the best (or any) seats.  Alternatively, try the operator's website or an agent such as Ticketbus ( ticketbus.com.mx).  Prices are reasonable: a first-class ticket on the Cancún–Mérida route costs from M$370, for example.  While there are very rarely problems getting a place on a bus from its point of origin or from really big towns, in smaller, mid-route places, you may have to wait for the bus to arrive (or at least to leave the previous stop) before discovering if there are any seats – the increased prevalence of computerized ticketing is easing the problem. 

#### Timetables

Terms to look out for on the timetable, besides _local_ and _de paso_ (buses that originate in another destination), include _vía corta_ (by the short route) and _directo_ or _expreso_ (direct/nonstop – in theory at least). _ Salida_ is departure, _llegada_ arrival.  A decent road map will be extremely helpful in working out which buses are going to pass through your destination.   ticketbus.com.mx is a useful site for checking schedules. 

< Back to Getting around

### By air

There are more than fifty airports in Mexico with regular passenger **flights** run by local airlines, plus several smaller airports with feeder services.  The big company – formerly state-owned and with international as well as domestic flights – is Aeroméxico ( aeromexico.com), which connects most places to Mexico City, usually several times a day.  There are numerous other smaller and no-frills airlines such as Aeromar ( aeromar.com.mx), Interjet ( interjet.com.mx), Volaris ( volaris.com), Mayair ( mayair.com.mx), Viva Aerobus ( vivaaerobus.com) and AeroServicio Guerrero ( asg.com.mx), which also cover most major destinations.  Competition between the companies keeps prices steady and relatively low: a one-way trip between Mexico City and Cancún, for example, can cost as little as US$40. 

Internal **airfares** reflect the popularity of the route: the more popular the trip, the lower the price.  Thus the flight from Tijuana to Mexico City costs much the same as the much shorter but less popular flight from Tijuana to Chihuahua, but even the more expensive routes can be worthwhile for the time they save.  While the smaller airlines might be cheaper, there are few discounts and the price of a ticket on a particular flight doesn't normally vary from agent to agent. 

< Back to Getting around

### By rail

Since Mexico's railways were privatized in 1995, all passenger services have been withdrawn bar one suburban service out of Mexico City and a couple of tourist lines: the **Copper Canyon railway** in Chihuahua, an amazing scenic journey and one of the country's top tourist attractions, and the **Tequila Express** from Guadalajara. 

< Back to Getting around

### By boat

 **Ferries** connect Baja California with a trio of ports on the Pacific mainland: Santa Rosalía to Guaymas, and La Paz to Mazatlán and Topolobampo (for Los Mochis).  For information on schedules and fares see  mexbound.com/mexico-ferry.php.  There are also smaller boats to islands off the Caribbean and Gulf coasts: from Chiquilá to Isla Holbox, from Cancún to Isla Mujeres and from Playa del Carmen to Cozumel.  Though more expensive than they once were, all these services are still pretty reasonable. 

< Back to Getting around

### By car

Driving in Mexico requires care and concentration, and almost inevitably involves at least one brush with bureaucracy or the law (for details see the section on Insurance).  Hitchhiking is possible, but due to safety concerns, the scarcity of lifts and the vast distances involved, it's not recommended. 

#### Car rental

 **Renting a car** in Mexico is often an extremely good way of quickly seeing a small area that would take days to explore using public transport.  Always check **rates** carefully to make sure they include insurance, tax and the mileage you need.  Daily rates with unlimited mileage start at around US$50/£32; weekly rates usually cost around the same as six days.  In some resorts **mopeds** , **motorbikes** and even **golf carts** are also available for short distances, but most of the large, international companies don't deal with them because of the high frequency of accidents. 

#### Fuel

The government oil company, PEMEX, has a monopoly and sells two types of **petrol** : Magna Sin (regular unleaded), and Premium (high-octane unleaded).  Both of these cost slightly more than regular unleaded north of the border, at about M$13.50–15 per US gallon. 

#### Roads and traffic

Traffic circulates on the right, and the normal speed limit is 40km/h (25mph) in built-up areas, 70km/h (43mph) in open country and 110km/h (68mph) on the freeway.  Some of the new highways are excellent, and the toll ( _cuota_ ) superhighways are better still, though extremely expensive (check prices online at  sct.gob.mx, clicking on "Tarifas vigentes de carreteras").  Away from the major population centres, however, roads are often narrow, winding and potholed, with livestock wandering across at unexpected moments.  Get out of the way of Mexican bus and truck drivers – if you signal left to them on a stretch of open road, it means it's clear for them to overtake. 

Every town and village limits the speed of through traffic with a series of _topes_ (speed bumps) across the road.  Look out for the warning signs and take them seriously; the bumps are often huge.  It's wise to avoid driving at night, not only for road safety reasons, but also because of the threat of hold-ups.  Any good road map should provide details of the more common symbols used on Mexican **road signs**.  One convention of note: the first driver to flash their lights at a junction, or where only one vehicle can pass, has the right of way – you're not being invited to go first. 

Most large towns have extensive **one-way systems**.  Traffic direction is often poorly marked (look for small arrows affixed to lampposts), though this is less of a problem than it sounds: simply note the direction in which the parked cars, if not the moving cars, are facing. 

# ADDRESSES

In Mexico **addresses** are frequently written with just the street name and number (thus: Madero 125), which can lead to confusion as many streets are known only as numbers (C 17).  Calle (C) means "street"; Avenida (Av), Bulevar (Blv), Calzada and Paseo are other common terms – most are named after historical figures or dates.  An address such as Hidalgo 39 8° 120, means Hidalgo no.  39, 8th lfloor, room 120 (a ground-floor address would be denoted PB for _planta baja_ ).  Many towns have all their streets laid out in a **numbered grid** fanning out from a central point – often with odd-numbered streets running east–west, even ones north–south.  In such places a suffix – Ote (for _Oriente_ , East), Pte (for _Poniente_ , West), Nte (for _Norte_ , North) or Sur (South) – may be added to the street number to tell you which side of the two central dividing streets it is. 

Note that "s/n" is used in an address to indicate "sin número", meaning that the building in question does not have a street number. 

#### Parking

 **Parking** restrictions are complicated and foreigners are easy pickings for traffic police, who usually remove one or both plates in lieu of a ticket (retrieving them can be an expensive and time-consuming business).  Since **theft** is also a real threat, you should use a hotel with secure parking.  In Mexico City, residents' cars are banned from driving on one day of every week, determined by their licence number: the ban also applies to foreign cars, but rented vehicles are exempt. 

#### Breakdowns and accidents

Unless your car is a basic-model VW, Ford or Dodge (all manufactured in Mexico), **spare parts** are expensive and hard to come by – bring a basic spares kit.  Tyres in particular suffer on burning-hot Mexican roads, so you should carry at least one good spare.  Roadside _vulcanizadoras_ and _llanteros_ can do temporary repairs; new tyres are expensive, but remoulds aren't a good idea on hot roads at high speed.  If you have a breakdown on any highway between 8am and 8pm, there is a free mechanic service known as the **Ángeles Verdes** (Green Angels;  av.sectur.gob.mx).  As well as patrolling major routes looking for beleaguered motorists, they can be reached by phone on  078 or on local state hotlines, or by email at  angelesverdes@sectur.gob.mx, and they speak English. 

Should you have a minor **accident** , try to come to some arrangement with the other party – involving the police will only make matters worse, and Mexican drivers will be just as anxious to avoid doing so.  If you witness an accident, you may want to consider the gravity of the situation before getting involved.  Witnesses can be locked up along with those directly implicated to prevent them from leaving before the case comes up – so consider if your involvement is necessary to serve justice.  In a serious incident, contact your consulate and your Mexican insurance company as soon as possible. 

< Back to Getting around

### By bike

Mexico is not big on **cycling** , and with its vast size and the heavy and inconsiderate traffic in big cities, not to mention the danger of banditry, few tourists travel the country by bicycle.  The Yucatán Peninsula, being quite flat, lends itself to cycling, and bicycles can be rented in Campeche, Isla Mujeres, Playa del Carmen, Isla Cozumel and Tulum.  So does the area around Oaxaca, where you can also rent bikes.  Bicycle tour firms in Mexico include Bicicletas Pedro Martinez ( bicicletaspedromartinez.com), ¡El Tour ( bikemexico.com) and Backroads ( backroads.com). 

< Back to Getting around

### Local transport

 **Public transport** within Mexican towns and cities is always plentiful and inexpensive, though crowded and not particularly user-friendly.  Mexico City has an excellent **metro** system and there are smaller metros in both Guadalajara and Monterrey.  Elsewhere, however, you'll be reliant on buses (often a flat fare, though this varies from place to place).  Wherever possible we've indicated which bus to take and where to catch it, but often only local people will fully understand the intricacies of the system and you may well have to ask: the main destinations of the bus are usually marked on the windscreen, which helps. 

In bigger places _combis_ or **colectivos** offer a faster and perhaps less crowded alternative for only a little more money.  These are minibuses, vans or large sport utility vehicles that run along fixed routes to set destinations; they'll pick you up and drop you off wherever you like along the way, and you simply pay the driver for the distance travelled.  In Mexico City, _combis_ are known as **peseros**. 

#### Taxis

Regular **taxis** can also be good value, but be aware of rip-offs – unless you're confident that the meter is working, fix a price before you get in.  In the big cities, there are often tables of fixed prices posted at prominent spots.  At almost every airport and at some of the biggest bus stations you'll find a booth selling vouchers for taxis into town at a fixed price depending on the part of town you want to go to – sometimes there's a choice of paying more for a private car or less to share.  This will invariably cost less than just hailing a cab outside the terminal, and will certainly offer extra security.  In every case you should know the name of a hotel to head for, or they'll take you to the one that pays the biggest commission.  Never accept a ride in any kind of unofficial or unmarked taxi, and in Mexico City be especially cautious. 

< Back to Mexico Basics

## Accommodation

Hotels

Campsites, hammocks and cabañas

Hostels

Finding a room is rarely difficult – in areas that are not overly touristy the inexpensive places to stay are usually concentrated around the main plaza (the zócalo), with others near the market, train station or bus station (or where the bus station used to be, before it moved to the outskirts of town).  In bigger cities, there's usually a relatively small area in which you'll find the bulk of the less expensive possibilities.  The more modern and expensive places often lie on the outskirts of towns, accessible only by car or taxi.  The only times you're likely to have big problems finding somewhere to stay are in coastal resorts over the peak Christmas season, at Easter, on Mexican holidays and almost anywhere during a local fiesta, when it's well worth trying to reserve ahead. 

# PRICES QUOTED IN THIS SNAPSHOT

The hotel prices we quote in this Snapshot are for the least expensive room for two people in high season, at the time the Snapshot was researched.  Obviously the price may well have changed since then, and other options are usually available, including rooms with two beds, single rooms, dormitory accommodation in hostels and so on.  Where appropriate, we also give prices for some of these.  In instances where hotels quote in US dollars (particularly common on the Caribbean Coast), this price is given first with the peso equivalent (at the time of research) following in brackets. 

### Hotels

Mexican hotels may describe themselves as anything from _paradores_ , _posadas_ and _casas de huéspedes_ to plain _hoteles_ , all terms that are used more or less interchangeably.  A _parador_ is totally unrelated to its top-end Spanish namesake, for example, and although in theory a _casa de huéspedes_ means a small cheap place like a guesthouse, you won't necessarily find this to be the case. 

All rooms should have an official **price** displayed.  A room with one double bed ( _cama matrimonial_ ) is almost always cheaper than a room with two singles ( _doble_ or _con dos camas_ ), and most hotels have large "family" rooms with several beds, which are tremendous value for groups.  In the big resorts, there are lots of apartments that sleep six or more and include cooking facilities, for yet more savings.  A little gentle haggling rarely goes amiss, and many places will have some rooms that cost less, so just ask (" _Tiene un cuarto mas barato?_ "). 

**A/c** ( _aire acondicionado_ ) is a feature that inflates prices – it is frequently optional.  Unless it's very hot and humid, a room with a simple ceiling fan ( _ventilador_ ) is generally fine.  In winter, especially at altitude or in the desert, it will of course be **heating** rather than cooling that you want – if there isn't any, make sure there's enough bedding and ask for extra blankets if necessary. 

When looking at a room, you should always check its **insect proofing**.  Cockroaches and ants are common, and there's not much you can do about them, but decent netting will keep mosquitoes out. 

# ACCOMMODATION ALTERNATIVES

Useful websites that provide alternatives to standard hotel and hostel accommodation:

Airbnb  airbnb.com. 

CouchSurfing  couchsurfing.org. 

Homestay  homestay.com. 

Tripping  tripping.com. 

Vacation Rentals by Owner  vrbo.com. 

< Back to Accommodation

### Campsites, hammocks and cabañas

 **Camping** is easy enough if you are hiking in the backcountry, or happy simply to crash on a beach, but **robberies** are common, especially in places with a lot of tourists.  There are very few organized campsites, and those that do exist are first and foremost trailer parks, not particularly pleasant to pitch tents in.  Of course, if you have a van or **RV** you can use these or park just about anywhere else – there are a good number of facilities in the well-travelled areas, especially down the Pacific coast and Baja. 

If you're planning to do a lot of camping, an **international camping card** is a good investment, serving as useful ID and getting you discounts at member sites.  A range is available online. 

In a lot of less official campsites, you will be able to rent a hammock and a place to sling it for the same price as pitching a tent (around US$5–10/£6.25–6.50), maybe less, especially if you're packing your own hammock (Mexico is a good place to buy these, especially in and around Mérida in the Yucatán). 

Beach huts, or **cabañas** , are found at the more rustic, backpacker-oriented beach resorts, and sometimes inland.  Usually just a wooden or palm-frond shack with a hammock slung up inside (or a place to sling your own), they are frequently without electricity, though as a resort gets more popular, they tend to transform into sturdier beach bungalows with modern conveniences and higher prices.  At backwaters and beaches too untouristed even for cabañas, you should still be able to sling a hammock somewhere (probably the local bar or restaurant, where the palapa serves as shelter and shade). 

< Back to Accommodation

### Hostels

There are numerous hostels in Mexico, mainly concentrated in the more touristy areas.  Some eighteen are affiliated to Hostelling International ( hihostels.com); an HI card gets you a small discount, but is not essential.  HI-affiliated hostels, however, are not necessarily better than non-affiliated ones, of which there are many. 

< Back to Mexico Basics

## Crime and personal safety

Avoiding theft

Police

Drugs

Despite soaring crime rates and dismal-sounding statistics, you are unlikely to run into trouble in Mexico if you stick to well-travelled paths.  Even in Mexico City, which has a dangerous reputation, the threat is not that much greater than in many large North American and European cities.  Obviously there are areas in cities where you wander alone, or at night, at your peril; but the best precaution is common sense.  The narco war and the still-simmering conflict in Chiapas do not generally affect tourists. 

### Avoiding theft

 **Petty theft** and **pickpockets** are your biggest worry in Mexico, so don't wave money around, try not to look too obviously affluent, don't leave cash or cameras in hotel rooms, and deposit your valuables in your hotel's safe if it has one (make a note of what you've deposited and ask the hotelier to sign it if you're worried).  Crowds, especially on public city transport, are obvious hot spots: thieves tend to work in groups and target tourists.  Distracting your attention, especially by pretending to look for something (always be suspicious of anyone who appears to be searching for something near you), or having one or two people pin you down while another goes through your pockets, are common ploys.  Razoring of bags and pockets is another gambit, as is the more brutish grabbing of handbags, or anything left unattended even for a split second. ** Mugging** is less common than pickpocketing, but you should steer clear of obvious danger spots, such as deserted pedestrian underpasses in big cities – indeed, avoid all deserted areas in big cities.  Use ATMs in shopping malls or enclosed premises, and only in daylight when there are plenty of people around. 

**Robbery and sexual assault** on tourists by cab drivers are not unknown, and it is not a good idea to hail a cab in the street in Mexico City.  Instead, phone for a radio cab or, failing that, take the next best option and get a cab from an official _sitio_.  At night the beaches in tourist areas are also potentially dangerous. 

When travelling, keep an eye on your bags (which are safe enough in the luggage compartments underneath most buses).  Hold-ups of buses happen from time to time, and you may well be frisked on boarding to check for arms, since the bandits are most often passengers on the bus. 

Drivers are likely to encounter problems if they leave anything in their car.  The **vehicle** itself is less likely to be stolen than broken into for the valuables inside.  To avoid the worst, always park legally (and preferably off the street) and never leave anything visible inside the car. 

< Back to Crime and personal safety

### Police

Mexican **police** are poorly paid and **graft** is an accepted part of the job, though often difficult for foreign visitors to accept.  If a policeman accuses you of some violation (this is almost bound to happen to drivers at some stage), explain that you're a tourist, not used to the ways of the country – you may get off scot-free, but more likely the subject of a " **fine** " will come up.  Such on-the-spot fines are open to negotiation, but only if you're confident you've done nothing seriously wrong and have a reasonable command of Spanish.  Otherwise pay up and get out. 

These small bribes, known as _mordidas_ (bites), may also be extracted by border officials or bureaucrats (in which case, you could get out of paying by asking for a receipt, but it won't make life easier).  In general, it is always wise to back off from any sort of confrontation with the police and to be extremely polite to them at all times. 

Far more common than the _mordida_ is the **propina** , or tip, a payment made entirely on your initiative.  There's no need to do this, but it's remarkable how often a few pesos complete paperwork that would otherwise take weeks, open firmly locked doors or even find a seat on a previously full bus.  All such transactions are quite open, and it's up to you literally to put your money on the table. 

Should a crime be committed against you – in particular if you're robbed – your relationship with the police will obviously be different, although even in this eventuality it's worth considering whether the lengthy hassles you'll go through make it worth reporting.  Some insurance companies will insist on a police report if you're to get any refund – in which case you may practically have to dictate it to the officer and can expect little action.  Other firms may be prepared to accept that you were robbed and the theft was not reported to the police, but they are quite within their rights to demand that you do report it, and you will need to check with them.  The department you need in order to _presentar una denuncia_ (report the theft officially) is the Procuradoría General de Justicia. 

The Mexican **legal system** is based on the Napoleonic code, which assumes your guilt until you can prove otherwise.  Should you be jailed, your one phone call should be to your **consulate** – if nothing else, they'll arrange an English-speaking lawyer.  You can be held for up to 72 hours on suspicion before charges have to be brought.  Mexican jails are grim, although lots of money and friends on the outside can ameliorate matters slightly. 

< Back to Crime and personal safety

### Drugs

 **Drug offences** are the most common cause of serious trouble between tourists and the authorities.  Under heavy pressure from the US to clamp down on the trade, local authorities are particularly happy to throw the book at foreign offenders.  While the law has decriminalized small quantities of cannabis (up to 5g), cocaine (up to 0.5g) and heroin (up to 0.05g), if you're caught with quantities reckoned to be for distribution you can wave goodbye to daylight for a long time, and don't expect much help or sympathy from your consulate. 

Other naturally occurring drugs – Mexico has more species of psychoactive plants than anywhere else in the world – still form an important part of many indigenous rituals, most notably the **peyote cactus** (used primarily by the Huichols in the northern deserts).  Though the authorities turn a blind eye to indigenous use, use by non-indigenous Mexicans and tourists is as strongly prohibited as that of any other illegal drug, and heavily penalized.  Expect searches and even occasionally hotel raids by police if staying in areas known for peyote. 

# THE DRUGS WAR

Mexico is a major staging post on the **cocaine-smuggling** route from South America to the US, and use of cocaine is widespread and growing, with **crack** a blight in parts of the capital and some northern cities.  Also growing is the use of **methamphetamine** ("hielo"), which is manufactured in Mexico, especially in areas close to the US border. ** Heroin** is also manufactured in some northern states.  In this ever-growing and increasingly lucrative trade, powerful, well-connected cocaine- and methamphetamine-smuggling cartels, known as " **narcos** " have long fought over territory, with each gang having its own pet politicians and police in the states it controls. 

The situation changed radically in 2007 when President Felipe Calderón declared war on the _narcos_ , who turned their guns on the police and army as well as each other.  Innocent civilians often got caught in the crossfire, and thousands of people a year were killed in incidents related to the drugs war, with the biggest hot spots in areas bordering the US, and in major drug-producing states such as Sinaloa, though nowhere was safe. 

Calderón's successor, **Enrique Peña Nieto** , initially changed tack, setting up a national police force, the _gendarmerie_ , to tackle the problem.  However, a surge in violence in Michoacán soon forced him to send in the army again. 

Civicus, an international civil society NGO, stated in 2015: "Successive Mexican governments have ramped up the rhetoric about getting tough on drug trafficking.  The result has been an egregious and sustained assault on human rights: it is estimated that 100,000 people have been killed in the drug war, and a further 25,000 'disappeared'." 

## THE DRUGS WAR AND TOURISM

Tourists are not usually affected, but June 2009 saw tourist hotels hurriedly evacuated as a two-hour gun battle engulfed a section of Acapulco.  At the time of writing, in 2015, drug-related violence was a particular problem in the northern states of Sonora, Chihuahua, Coahuila, Nuevo Leon, Tamaulipas, Sinaloa and Durango, and also in Guerrero, Jalisco, Michoacán and Nayarit.  Armed clashes between security forces and drug groups may break out without warning, and you should exercise extreme caution outside of tourist areas in all of these states. 

< Back to Mexico Basics

## Health

Diarrhoea

Malaria and dengue fever

Other bites and stings

Altitude and heat problems

Hepatitis

Other diseases

Getting medical help

Most travellers visit Mexico without catching anything more serious than a dose of "Montezuma's Revenge".  You will still want the security of health insurance, but the important thing is to keep your resistance high and to be aware of the health risks linked to poor hygiene, untreated water, mosquito bites, and undressed open cuts. 

Lack of sanitation in Mexico is much exaggerated, but a degree of caution is wise.  Avoid food that looks like it has been on display for a while or not freshly cooked, and always peel fruit before eating it.  Avoid raw shellfish, and don't eat anywhere that is obviously dirty (easily spotted, since most Mexican restaurants are scrupulously clean).  Salads are healthy, but think twice before eating them if you have a sensitive stomach.  In general, keep an eye out for cleanliness of street stalls – beware of food that has been left out to breed germs rather than food that has been freshly cooked.  For advice on water, see "What about the water?". 

There are no required vaccinations for Mexico, but it's worth visiting your doctor at least four weeks before you leave to check that you are up to date with **tetanus** , **typhoid** and **hepatitis A** shots, as well as a **rabies** shot and **anti-malarial** pills if you're going to be in areas where they are recommended. 

For comprehensive coverage of the sort of health problems encountered by travellers, try the _Rough Guide to Travel Health_ by Dr Nick Jones – unfortunately now out of print, but still obtainable from some suppliers. 

### Diarrhoea

 **Diarrhoea** (Montezuma's Revenge, or simply _turista_ as it's also known in Mexico) is the medical problem you're most likely to encounter, and no one, however cautious, seems to avoid it altogether.  If you go down with a mild dose unaccompanied by other symptoms, it may simply be due to your body being unfamiliar with the local bacteria, but if your diarrhoea is accompanied by cramps and vomiting, it could be **food poisoning** of some sort.  Either way, it will probably pass of its own accord in 24 to 48 hours without treatment.  In the meantime, it's essential to replace the fluid and salts you're losing, so drink lots of water.  If you have severe diarrhoea, and whenever young children have it, add **oral rehydration salts** – _suero oral_ (brand names: Dioralyte, Electrosol, Rehidrat).  If you can't get these, dissolve half a teaspoon of salt and three of sugar in a litre of water. 

Avoid greasy food, heavy spices, caffeine and most fruit and dairy products; some say bananas, papayas, guavas and prickly pears ( _tunas_ ) help, while plain yogurt or a broth made from yeast extract (such as Marmite or Vegemite, if you happen to have some with you) can be easily absorbed by your body when you have diarrhoea.  Drugs like Lomotil or Imodium plug you up – and thus undermine the body's efforts to rid itself of infection – but they can be a temporary stop-gap if you have to travel.  If symptoms persist for more than three days, or if you have a fever or blood in your stool, seek medical advice (see "Getting medical help"). 

# WHAT ABOUT THE WATER? 

In a hot climate and at high altitudes, it's essential to increase **water** intake to prevent dehydration.  Most travellers, and most Mexicans if they can, stay off the tap water.  A lot of the time it is in fact drinkable, and in practice it may be impossible to avoid completely: ice made with it, unasked for, may appear in drinks, utensils are washed in it, and so on. 

Most restaurants and _licuaderías_ use **purified water** ( _agua purificada_ ), but always check; most hotels have a supply and will often provide bottles of water in your room.  Bottled water (generally purified with ozone or ultraviolet) is widely available, but stick with known brands, and always check that the seal on the bottle is intact since refilling empties with tap water for resale is common (carbonated water is generally a safer bet in that respect). 

There are various methods of **treating water** while you are travelling, whether your source is from a tap or a river or stream.  Boiling it for a minimum of five minutes is the time-honoured method, but it is not always practical, will not remove unpleasant tastes and is a lot less effective at higher altitudes – including much of central Mexico – where you have to boil it for much longer. 

## STERILIZATION AND PURIFICATION

 **Chemical sterilization** , using either chlorine or iodine tablets or a tincture of iodine liquid, is more convenient, but leaves a nasty aftertaste (which can to some extent be masked with lime juice).  Chlorine kills bacteria but, unlike iodine, is not effective against amoebic dysentery and giardiasis.  Pregnant women or people with thyroid problems should consult their doctor before using iodine sterilizing tablets or iodine-based purifiers.  Too many iodine tablets can cause gastrointestinal discomfort.  Inexpensive iodine removal filters are available and are recommended if treated water is being used continuously for more than a month or is being given to babies. 

**Purification** , involving both filtration and sterilization, gives the most complete treatment.  Portable water purifiers range in size from units weighing as little as 60g, which can be slipped into a pocket, up to 800g for carrying in a backpack. 

Another user-friendly alternative is a handheld ultraviolet (UV) water purifier such as Steripen ( steripen.com). 

< Back to Health

### Malaria and dengue fever

 **Malaria** , caused by a parasite that lives in the saliva of female _Anopheles_ mosquitoes, is endemic in some parts of Mexico.  Areas above 1000m (such as the capital) are malaria-free, as are Cancún, Cozumel, Isla Mujeres and all the beach resorts of the Baja and the Pacific coasts.  Daytime visits to archeological sites are risk-free, too, but low-lying inland areas can be risky, especially at night.  According to the US-based Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) the main risk areas are Chihuahua, Chiapas, Durango, Nayarit and Sinaloa, with rare cases in Campeche, Jalisco, Oaxaca, Sonora, Tabasco and the municipality of Othon P. Blanco in the southern part of Quintana Roo, bordering Belize.  Chloroquine (brand names: Nivaquin, Resochin, Avloclor, Aralen) is the recommended malaria prophylactic for travellers to Mexico; you need to start taking the pills one week before you arrive and continue for one month after you depart.  Chloroquine is unsuitable for sufferers from various complaints such as epilepsy and psoriasis but daily proguanil (brand name Paludrine) can be used in its place.  Consult a physician before beginning any course of medication; see  wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel for more information on malaria in Mexico. 

If you go down with malaria, you'll probably know.  The fever, shivering and headaches are like severe flu and come in waves, usually beginning in the early evening.  Malaria is not infectious, but can be dangerous and sometimes even fatal if not treated quickly, so you should seek medical help immediately. 

The most important thing, obviously, is to avoid **mosquito** bites altogether.  Though active from dusk till dawn, female _Anopheles_ mosquitoes prefer to bite in the evening.  Wear long sleeves, skirts or trousers, avoid dark colours, which attract mosquitoes, and put **repellent** on all exposed skin, especially feet and ankles, which are their favourite targets.  Plenty of good brands are sold locally, though health departments recommend carrying high-DEET brands available from travel clinics at home.  An alternative is to burn coils of **pyrethrum** incense such as Raidolitos (these are readily available and burn all night if whole, but break easily).  Sleep under a **net** if you can – one that hangs from a single point is best if you're going to buy one (you can usually find a way to tie a string across your room to hang it from).  Special mosquito nets for hammocks are available in Mexico. 

Another illness spread by mosquito bites is **dengue fever** , whose symptoms are similar to those of malaria, plus a headache and aching bones.  Dengue-carrying mosquitoes are particularly prevalent in urban areas during the rainy season and fly during the day, so wear insect repellent in the daytime if mosquitoes are around.  The only treatment is complete rest, with drugs to assuage the fever – and take note that a second infection can be fatal. 

< Back to Health

### Other bites and stings

Other biting insects can also be a nuisance.  These include bed bugs, sometimes found in cheap (and, occasionally, in not so cheap) hotels – look for squashed ones around the bed.  Sandflies, often present on beaches, are quite small, but their bites, usually on feet and ankles, itch like hell and last for days.  Head or body lice can be picked up from people or bedding, and are best treated with medicated soap or shampoo. 

**Scorpions** are mostly nocturnal and hide during the day under rocks and in crevices, so poking around in such places when in the countryside is generally ill-advised.  If sleeping in a place where they might enter (such as a beach cabaña), shake your shoes out before putting them on in the morning, and try not to wander round barefoot.  Some scorpion stings are dangerous and medical treatment should always be sought – cold-pack the sting in the meantime. ** Snakes** are unlikely to bite unless accidentally disturbed – walk heavily and they will usually slither away.  A fifth or so of Mexico's snake species are venomous, the most dangerous being rattlesnakes (cascabel, found in the north), coral snakes (coralillo, found particularly in Guerrero, Oaxaca, Veracruz and Chiapas) and the nauyacas (found mainly in the south and the Yucatán).  If you do get bitten or stung, remember what the snake or scorpion looked like (kill it if you can do so without receiving more bites), try not to move the affected part (tourniquets are not recommended due to dangerous risk of gangrene – if you do use one, it is vital to relieve it for at least ninety seconds every fifteen minutes), and seek medical help: antivenins are available in most hospitals.  Black widow spiders also exist in Mexico; tarantulas are more fearsome-looking, but a lot less dangerous. 

< Back to Health

### Altitude and heat problems

Two other common causes of health problems in Mexico are altitude and the sun.  The solution in both cases is to take it easy.  Arriving in Mexico City (2240m), in particular, you may find any activity strenuous, and the thin air is made worse by the high concentration of pollutants.  Allow yourself time to acclimatize.  If going to higher altitudes (mountain climbing, for example), you may develop symptoms of **Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS)** , such as breathlessness, headaches, dizziness, nausea and appetite loss.  More extreme cases may include vomiting, disorientation, loss of balance and coughing up of pink frothy phlegm.  A slow descent almost always brings immediate recovery. 

Tolerance to the sun, too, takes a while to build up: use a strong **sunscreen** and, if you're walking during the day, wear a hat or keep to the shade.  Be sure to avoid dehydration by drinking enough (water or fruit juice rather than beer or coffee, and aim to drink at least three litres a day), and don't exert yourself for long periods in the hot sun.  Be aware that overheating can cause **heatstroke** , which is potentially fatal.  Signs are a very high body temperature without a feeling of fever, accompanied by headaches, disorientation and even irrational behaviour.  Lowering body temperature (a tepid shower, for example) is the first step in treatment. 

Less serious is **prickly heat** , an itchy rash that is in fact an infection of the sweat ducts caused by excessive perspiration that doesn't dry off.  A cool shower, zinc oxide powder and loose cotton clothes should help. 

< Back to Health

### Hepatitis

 **Hepatitis A** is transmitted through contaminated food and water, or through saliva, and thrives in conditions of poor hygiene.  It can lay a victim low for several months with exhaustion, fever and diarrhoea, and can even cause liver damage.  The Havrix vaccine has been shown to be extremely effective; with a booster after six months, protection lasts for ten years. 

Hepatitis symptoms include a yellowing of the whites of the eyes, general malaise, orange urine (though dehydration can also cause this) and light-coloured stools.  If you think you have it and are unable immediately to see a doctor, it is important to get lots of rest, avoid alcohol and do your best not to spread the disease.  If medical insurance coverage is an issue, you can go to a pathology lab (most towns have them) to get blood tests before paying a greater amount to see a doctor. 

More serious is **hepatitis B** , which is passed through blood or sexual contact, in the same way as HIV, but more easily.  A hepatitis B jab is recommended if you will be in contact with those with weaker immune systems, for example, working around medical patients or with children.  Ideally three doses are given over six months, but, if time is short, there are other options that take one to two months, with a booster given after a year. 

< Back to Health

### Other diseases

Typhoid and cholera are spread in the same way as hepatitis A. **Typhoid** produces a persistent high fever with malaise, headaches and abdominal pains, followed by diarrhoea.  Vaccination can be by injection or orally, though the oral alternative is less effective, more expensive and only lasts a year, as opposed to three for a shot in the arm. ** Cholera** appears in epidemics rather than isolated cases – if it's about, you will probably hear about it.  Cholera is characterized by sudden attacks of watery diarrhoea with severe cramps and debilitation. 

Immunizations against **mumps** , **measles** , **TB** and **rubella** are a good idea for anyone who wasn't vaccinated as a child and hasn't had the diseases, and it's worth making sure you are covered for **tetanus**.  You don't need a shot for **yellow fever** unless you're coming from a country where it's endemic (in which case you need to carry your vaccination certificate). 

**Rabies** exists in Mexico and the rabies vaccine is advised for anyone who will be more than 24 hours away from medical help, for example if going trekking in remote areas.  The best advice is simply to give dogs a wide berth, and not to play with animals at all, no matter how cuddly they may look.  A bite, a scratch or even a lick from an infected animal could spread the disease – rabies can be fatal, so if you are bitten, assume the worst and get medical help as quickly as possible.  While waiting, wash any such wound immediately but gently with soap or detergent and apply alcohol or iodine if possible.  If you decide to get the vaccination, you'll need three shots spread over a four-week period prior to travel. 

< Back to Health

### Getting medical help

For minor medical problems, head for a **farmacia** – look for a green cross and the _Farmacia_ sign.  Pharmacists are knowledgeable and helpful, and many speak some English.  One word of warning, however: in many Mexican pharmacies you can still buy drugs such as Entero-Vioform and Mexaform (both used to treat diarrhoea), which can cause optic nerve damage and have been banned elsewhere; it is not a good idea, therefore, to use local brands unless you know what they are.  Note that the purchase of prescription drugs without a Mexican prescription is illegal; a US prescription will not suffice. 

For more serious complaints you can get a list of English-speaking **doctors** from your government's nearest consulate.  Big hotels and tourist offices may also be able to recommend medical services.  Every Mexican border town has hundreds of doctors (dentists, too) experienced in treating gringos, since they charge less than their colleagues across the border.  Every reasonably sized town should also have a state- or Red Cross-run **health centre** ( _centro de salud_ ), where treatment is free.  Treatment at health centres should be adequate for minor problems, but for anything involving an overnight stay, go to a private hospital (for which your travel insurance should cover you). 

# MEDICAL RESOURCES

Canadian Society for International Health  613 241 5785,  csih.org.  Has an extensive list of travel health centres. 

CDC  1 800 232 4636,  cdc.gov/travel.  Official US government travel health site. 

International Society for Travel Medicine US  1 404 373 8282,  istm.org.  Has a full list of travel health clinics. 

Hospital for Tropical Diseases Travel Clinic UK  020 3447 5999,  www.thehtd.org/travelclinic.aspx. 

MASTA (Medical Advisory Service for Travellers Abroad) UK  0330 100 4200,  masta-travel-health.com for the nearest clinic. 

Tropical Medical Bureau Ireland  1850 487 674,  tmb.ie. 

The Travel Doctor Aus  1 300 658 844,  traveldoctor.com.au.  Lists travel clinics in Australia, New Zealand and South Africa. 

< Back to Mexico Basics

## Food and drink

Where to eat

What to eat

Meals

Drinks

Whatever your preconceptions about Mexican food, if you've never eaten in Mexico, they will almost certainly be wrong.  Food here bears very little resemblance to the concoctions served in "Mexican" restaurants or fast-food joints in other parts of the world – you certainly won't find chile con carne outside the tourist spots.  Nor, as a rule, is it especially spicy. 

# SALSA

Most Mexican food is not in itself terribly spicy – the fire comes from the red and green salsa supplied as condiments on the table, and the salsa can be a good guide to the quality of a restaurant.  A place with a superior salsa on the table will probably serve up some decent food, whereas a place that takes no pride in its salsa is likely to treat its food in the same manner.  To a certain extent you can tell from the presentation: a place that has grubby, rarely changed salsa dishes probably just refills them from a supermarket-bought can, and will not take the same pride in its food as a _casero_ (home-cooking) restaurant that proudly puts its own salsa on the table in a nice bowl.  Usually you get a red salsa and a green one, and sometimes bottled hot-sauce condiments too. 

Nowadays, the red bowl may contain a **raw** , California-style salsa: tomato, onion, chile and coriander (cilantro) finely chopped together.  More common, though, are the traditional **cooked** salsas: either green or red, and relatively mild (though start eating with caution, just in case).  The recipes are – of course – closely guarded secrets, but the basic ingredients are tomato (the verdant Mexican tomatillo in green versions), onion and one or more of the hundreds of varieties of chile. 

### Where to eat

Basic meals are served at **restaurantes** , but you can get breakfast, snacks and often full meals at cafés too; there are **takeaway** and **fast-food** places serving sandwiches, tortas (filled rolls) and tacos (tortillas folded over with a filling), as well as more international-style food; there are establishments called **jugerías** (look for signs saying "Jugos y Licuados") serving nothing but wonderful _jugos_ (juices), _licuados_ (fruit blended with water or milk) and fruit salads; and there are **street stalls** dishing out everything from tacos to orange juice to ready-made vegetable salads sprinkled with chile-salt and lime.  Just about every **market** in the country has a cooked-food section, too, and these are invariably the cheapest places to eat, if not always the most enticing surroundings.  Big cities and resorts have international restaurants – **pizza** , **burgers** and **Chinese** food are ubiquitous, and **Argentine** restaurants are the places to go for well-cooked, quality steaks. 

On buses (especially second-class ones), people clamber on at stops with home-made foods, local specialities, cold drinks or coffee.  You'll find wonderful things this way that you won't come across in restaurants, but they should be treated with caution, and with an eye to hygiene. 

# SOME LIKE IT NOT SO HOT: THE MEXICAN CHILE

Mexican cooks use at least a hundred different types of **chiles** , fresh or dried, in colours ranging from pale green to almost black, and all sorts of different sizes (large, mild ones are often stuffed with meat or cheese and rice to make **chiles rellenos** ).  Each has a distinct flavour and by no means all are hot (which is why we don't use the English term "chilli" for them), although the most common, **chiles jalapeños** – which can be green or red, and are traditionally grown around the city of Xalapa – certainly are.  The hottest is the **habanero** , 25 times hotter than the **jalapeño**.  Far less intimidating is the **chile poblano** , a large, mild chile used in dishes such as **chiles rellenos** and **chiles en nogada** , a seasonal dish of stuffed poblano chiles in a white sauce made of walnuts and cream cheese or sour cream, topped with red pomegranate: the colours of the national flag. 

## MOLE

Chile is also the basic ingredient of more complex cooked sauces, notably **mole** , which is Mexico's version of a curry, traditionally served with turkey or chicken, but also sometimes with enchiladas (rolled, filled tortillas).  There are several types of _mole_ , the two most common being the rather bland _mole verde_ , and the far richer and more exciting **mole poblano** , a speciality of Puebla.  Half of the fifty or so ingredients in this extraordinary mixture are different types of chile, but the most notable ingredient is chocolate. 

< Back to Food and drink

### What to eat

The basic Mexican diet is essentially one of **corn** ( _maíz_ as a crop, _elote_ when eaten), supplemented by **beans** and **chiles**.  These three things appear in an almost infinite variety of guises. 

# CHOCOLATE

The Olmecs of the Gulf coast began mixing cacao beans into a bitter **chocolate** drink around three thousand years ago.  By the time Cortés and the conquistadors reached New Spain in the early sixteenth century, the use of cacao had spread to the Aztecs, who consumed _chocoatl_ cold and mixed with spices – this "drink of the gods" was said to be a favourite of Aztec emperor Moctezuma.  Chocolate remains a popular drink in Mexico today (now with lots of added sugar), but its most distinctive use is in **mole poblano** , a thick sauce of chocolate and chiles that accompanies otherwise savoury dishes – particularly chicken.  Though found all over the country, _mole_ remains a speciality of Puebla in central Mexico, where the dish originated in the colonial era. 

#### Beans and vegetables

 **Beans** ( _frijoles_ ), an invariable accompaniment to egg dishes – and pretty much everything else too – are usually of the pinto or kidney variety and are almost always served **refritos** , ie boiled up, mashed and "refried" (though actually it is the first time they're fried).  They're even better if you can get them whole in some kind of country-style soup or stew, often with pork or bacon, as in **frijoles charros**.  You'll find **corn** in soups and stews such as **pozole** (with meat), or roasted on the cob at street stalls.  Mexican **vegetables** include the green tomatillo ( _tomate_ , as opposed to _jitomate_ , which is an ordinary tomato), _nopales_ , which are prickly pear fronds (the fruit being a _tuna_ ), and _huitlacoche_ , a fungus that grows on corn.  You may also get to eat courgette flowers ( _flor de calabaza_ ), which are especially popular in quesadillas. 

# REGIONAL CUISINE

It's easy to think of Mexican food as one cuisine.  In reality, while there are common themes, each region has its own excellent specialities.  Here are a few regional highlights. 

## BAJA CALIFORNIA

In Baja, the sea is all around, so it makes sense that _mariscos_ (seafood) and _pescado_ (fish) dominate menus – the fish taco is an eternal favourite.  Northern Baja is home to Mexico's wine industry, and drinking wine with your meal is far more common here than elsewhere in the country. 

## THE NORTH

Dining in the north, where the land is too dry to grow produce, tends to revolve around grilled meat: the _asado_ (barbecue) is king. _ Cabrito asado_ (roast kid) is the classic dish, often served in gargantuan portions and accompanied only by tortillas and salsa.  These basic ingredients combine into burritos and fajitas, dishes that have travelled north of the border to become what most of the world thinks of as "Mexican food". 

## CENTRAL MEXICO

With fertile valleys and highlands that receive enough rain to sustain agriculture, central Mexico has the widest range of local ingredients.  This is the land of the avocado (and therefore guacamole) and the birthplace of tequila.  Mexico's second city, Guadalajara, excels with its _birria_ , a soupy stew, while coastal towns dish up tasty _camarones_ (prawns).  Further south, Oaxaca claims the country's finest tamales, stuffed cornmeal dough cooked in banana leaves. 

## THE YUCATÁN

Influenced by the flavours of the Caribbean, an abundance of tropical fruits and the all-powerful burn of the _habanero chile_ , Yucatecan cuisine is a world apart from that of central Mexico.  The most celebrated dish is _cochinita pibil_ , pork marinated in a _recado_ made from garlic, chiles, black pepper, cumin, cinnamon, oregano and vinegar, then wrapped in plantain leaves and grilled. 

#### Tortillas and tamales

As well as being eaten as a vegetable in its own right, corn is ground into flour for **tortillas** , basically flat maize pancakes (tortillas made of wheat flour, or _de harina_ , are rare except in the north).  The ground maize is combined with salt and water in a paste ( _masa)_ which is pressed or patted flat by hand, then heated on a _comal_ , a flat steel sheet.  While smarter restaurants serve bread rolls ( _bolillos_ ), a stack of tortillas is a common accompaniment in cheaper places, and they also form the basis of most **antojitos** (appetizers or light courses).  Simplest of these are **tacos** , tortillas filled with almost anything, from beef and chicken to green vegetables, and then fried (they're usually still soft, not at all like the baked taco shells you may have had at home).  With cheese, either alone or in addition to other fillings, they are called **quesadillas**. ** Enchiladas** are rolled, filled tortillas covered in salsa and baked; **enchiladas suizas** are filled with chicken and have sour cream over them. ** Tostadas** are flat tortillas toasted crisp and piled with ingredients – usually meat, salad vegetables and cheese (smaller bite-size versions are known as _sopes_ ).  Tortillas torn up and cooked together with meat and (usually hot) sauce are called **chilaquiles** ; this is a traditional way of using up leftovers.  In the north, especially, you'll also come across **burritos** (large wheat-flour tortillas, stuffed with anything, but usually beef and potatoes or beans) and **gorditas** (delicious fat corn tortillas, sliced open, stuffed and baked or fried).  Also short and fat are **tlacoyos** , tortillas made with a stuffing of mashed beans, often using blue-corn flour, which gives them a rather bizarre colour. 

Corn flour, too, is the basis of **tamales** – found predominantly in central and southern Mexico – which are a sort of cornmeal pudding, stuffed, flavoured and steamed in corn or banana leaves.  They can be either savoury, with additions like shrimp or corn kernels, or sweet when made with something like coconut. 

#### Meat, seafood and eggs

Except in the north, **meat** is not especially good – beef in particular is usually thin and tough; pork, goat and occasionally lamb are better.  If the menu doesn't specify what kind of meat it is, it's usually pork – even steak ( _bistec_ ) can be pork unless it specifies _bistec de res_.  For thick American-style steaks, look for a sign saying "Carnes Hereford" or for a "New York Cut" description (only in expensive places or in the north or at fancier resorts). ** Seafood** is almost always fresh and delicious, especially the spicy shrimp or octopus cocktails which you find in most coastal areas ( **coctél/campechana de camarón** or **pulpo** ), but beware of eating uncooked shellfish, even _ceviche_ (though the lime juice it is marinaded in does kill off most of the nasties). ** Eggs** in country areas are genuinely free range and flavoursome.  They feature on every menu as the most basic of meals, and at some time you must try the classic Mexican combinations of **huevos rancheros** (fried eggs on a tortilla with red salsa) or **huevos a la mexicana** (scrambled with onion, tomato and chile). 

#### Vegetarian food

 **Vegetarians** can eat well in Mexico, although it does take caution to avoid meat altogether.  Many Mexican dishes are naturally meat-free and there are always fabulous fruits and vegetables available.  Most restaurants serve vegetable soups and rice, and items like quesadillas, _chiles rellenos_ and even tacos and enchiladas often come with non-meat fillings.  Another possibility is **queso fundido** , simply (and literally) melted cheese, served with tortillas and salsa.  Eggs, too, are served anywhere at any time, and many _jugerías_ serve huge mixed **salads** to which grains and nuts can be added. 

However, vegetarianism, though growing, is not particularly common, and a simple cheese and chile dish may have some meat added to "improve" it.  Worse, most of the fat used for frying is animal fat (usually lard), so that even something as unadorned as refried beans may not be strictly vegetarian (especially as a bone or some stock may have been added to the water the beans were originally boiled in).  Even "vegetarian" restaurants, which can be found in all the big cities, often include chicken on the menu.  You may well have better luck in pizza places and Chinese or other ethnic restaurants. 

< Back to Food and drink

### Meals

Traditionally, Mexicans eat a light breakfast very early, a snack of tacos or eggs in mid-morning, lunch (the main meal of the day) around 2pm or later – in theory followed by a siesta, but decreasingly so, it seems – and a late, light supper.  Eating a large meal at lunch time can be a great way to save money – almost every restaurant serves a cut-price **comida corrida** (a set meal, changing daily). 

**Breakfast** ( _desayuno_ ) in Mexico can consist simply of coffee and _pan dulce_ – sweet rolls and pastries that usually come in a basket; you pay for as many as you eat.  More substantial breakfasts consist of eggs in any number of forms (many set breakfasts include _huevos al gusto_ : eggs any way you like them), and at fruit-juice places you can have a simple _licuado_ fortified with raw egg ( _blanquillo_ ).  Freshly squeezed orange juice ( _jugo de naranja_ ) is always available from street stalls in the early morning. 

**Snacks** mostly consist of some variation on the taco/enchilada theme (stalls selling them are called _taquerías_ ), but tortas – rolls heavily filled with meat or cheese or both, garnished with avocado and chile and toasted on request – are also wonderful, and you'll see takeout torta stands everywhere.  Failing that, you can of course always make your own snacks with bread or tortillas, along with fillings such as avocado or cheese, from shops or markets. 

At **lunch time** (around 1–5pm) many restaurants serve a comida corrida (known in smarter places as the _menu del día_ or _menu turístico_ ), usually consisting of three or four courses for US$5–8/£3.25–5.20 or less – sometimes even half that price.  A typical _comida_ will consist of "wet" soup, probably vegetable, followed by "dry" soup – most commonly _sopa de arroz_ (rice seasoned with tomato or chile), or perhaps a plate of vegetables, pasta, beans or guacamole (avocado mashed with onion, and maybe tomato, lime juice and chile).  Then comes the main course (usually meat or fish), followed by pudding, usually fruit, _flan_ or _pudin_ (crème caramel-like concoctions), or rice pudding.  Other Mexican desserts worth looking out for include meringue made with _pulque_, and _capirotada_ (bread pudding, especially popular during Lent). 

Some restaurants also offer set meals in the evening, but this is rare, and on the whole going out to **eat at night** is much more expensive. 

< Back to Food and drink

### Drinks

The basic drinks to accompany food are water or beer.  If you're drinking **water** , stick to bottled stuff ( _agua mineral_ or _agua de Tehuacán_ ) – it comes either plain ( _sin gas_ ) or carbonated ( _con gas_ ). 

#### Jugos, licuados and refrescos

 **Soft drinks** ( _refrescos_ ) – including Coke, Pepsi, Squirt (fun to pronounce in Spanish), and Mexican brands like apple-flavoured Sidral (which are usually extremely sweet) – are on sale everywhere.  Far more tempting are the real **fruit juices** and _licuados_ sold at shops and stalls displaying the "Jugos y Licuados" sign and known as _jugerías_ or _licuaderías_.  Juices ( **jugos** ) can be squeezed from anything that will go through the extractor.  Orange (naranja) and carrot (zanahoria) are the staples, but you should also experiment with some of the more obscure tropical fruits such as soursop or mamey. _ Licuados_ are made of fruit mixed with water ( **licuado de agua** or simply **agua de**...) or milk ( **licuado de leche** ) in a blender, usually with sugar added, and are always fantastic. ** Limonada** (fresh lemonade) is also sold in many of these places, as are **aguas frescas** – flavoured cold drinks, of which the most common are **horchata** (rice milk flavoured with cinnamon) and **agua de arroz** (like an iced rice-pudding drink – delicious), **de jamaica** (hibiscus) or **de tamarindo** (tamarind).  These are also often served in restaurants or sold in the streets from great glass jars.  Make sure that any water and ice used is purified – street stalls are especially suspect in this regard.  Juices and _licuados_ are also sold at many ice-cream parlours – _neverías_ or _paleterías_.  The ice cream, more like Italian _gelato_ than the heavy-cream US varieties, can also be fabulous and comes in a huge range of flavours. 

#### Coffee and tea

A great deal of **coffee** is produced in Mexico, and in the growing areas, especially the state of Veracruz, as well as in the traditional coffeehouses in the capital, you will be served superb coffee.  In its basic form, **café solo** or **negro** , it is strong, black, often sweet (ask for it _sin azúcar_ for no sugar), and comes in small cups.  For weaker black coffee ask for **café americano** , though this may mean instant (if you do want instant, ask for "Nescafé").  White is **café cortado** or **con un pocito de leche** ; **café con leche** can be delicious, made with all milk and no water (ask if it's "hecho de leche" – made of milk). ** Espresso** and **cappuccino** are often available too, or you may be offered **café de olla** – stewed in the pot for hours with cinnamon and sugar, it's thick, sweet and tasty.  Outside traditional coffee areas like Chiapas, however, the coffee is often terrible, with instant common. 

**Tea** (té) is often available too, and you may well be offered a cup at the end of a _comida_.  You may also be offered herb teas such as **manzanillo** (camomile) or **yerbabuena** (mint).  If you get the chance to try traditional **hot chocolate** ("the drink of the Aztecs"), then do so – it's an extraordinary, spicy, semi-bitter concoction, quite unlike the milky bedtime drink of your childhood.  Artisan chocolate shops sell the chocolate for this (you just add boiling water), and occasionally sell it as a drink too. 

#### Alcohol

You'll normally be drinking in **bars** , the least heavy atmosphere among which is in **hotel bars** , tourist areas or anything that describes itself as a "ladies' bar". ** Cantinas** are for serious drinking, traditionally macho places that were closed to women (they typically had a sign above the door prohibiting entry to "women, members of the armed forces and anyone in uniform").  Especially in big cities they are now more liberal, but in small, conservative places they remain exclusively male preserves with an atmosphere of drunken bonhomie and an undercurrent of readiness for a fight, where women may not be welcome and are sometimes still even banned. 

If you don't feel comfortable in bars, you can buy alcohol from most shops, supermarkets and, cheapest of all, _agencias_ , which are normally agents for just one brand.  For bottles you pay a deposit: to get it back, keep your receipt and return your bottles to the same store.  Bigger, 940ml bottles are known as _caguamas_ (turtles), or in the case of Pacífico, _ballenas_ (whales). 

##### Beer and wine

 **Mexican beer** ( _cerveza_ ) is mostly light lager ( _cerveza clara_ ) – usually light in flavour as well as colour.  Sol, Tecate and Dos Equis are typical brands; if you want something more flavoursome try Modelo, Bohémia or Corona, or a dark ( _oscura_ ) beer, of which the best are Negra Modelo, Indio and Bohémia Obscura.  Microbreweries are increasingly springing up.  Try a _michelada_ , a beer cocktail made by adding ice, lime and Worcestershire and Tabasco sauces to dark beer and rimming the glass with salt.  The milder _chelada_ is a light beer mixed with plenty of lime and salt, and both are refreshing on a sunny day. 

**Wine** ( _vino_ – _tinto_ is red, _blanco_ is white) is not seen a great deal, although Mexico does produce a fair number of perfectly good vintages.  You're safest sticking to brand names like Hidalgo or Domecq, although it may also be worth experimenting with some of the new labels, especially those from Baja California, such as L. A. Cetto, which are attempting to emulate the success of their neighbours across the border and in many cases have borrowed American techniques and wine-makers. 

# THE SODA TAX

Mexicans have dangerously sweet teeth: more than thirty percent of the population is obese, many more are overweight, and diseases like diabetes are rife. ** Sugary drinks** are one of the key causes: each Mexican drinks the equivalent of 163 litres of Coca-Cola a year – the highest rate in the world. 

In an attempt to tackle this expanding problem, the Mexican government introduced a ten percent " **soda tax** " in January 2014, plus additional taxes on high-calorie snacks like crisps and biscuits.  Six months later these policies were followed by wide-ranging restrictions on TV and cinema advertising of sugary soft drinks and high calorie foods. 

Early signs suggested that these steps were having a positive impact: sugary drink purchases had fallen six percent by the end of 2014, and the "soda tax" had raised more than M$18 billion in revenue.  Inevitably, however, there has been a **backlash**.  In late 2015, following fierce lobbying from multinational fizzy drinks manufacturers, the government agreed to halve the tax for sweetened drinks with a "lower sugar content". 

Campaigners and public health experts, by contrast, are urging the government to go further and instead increase the tax, abolish VAT on bottled water to make it cheaper than sugary drinks, and to provide free drinking water in schools, among other measures. 

##### Tequila, mescal and pulque

 **Tequila** , distilled from the cactus-like agave plant and produced mainly in the state of Jalisco, is the most famous Mexican spirit, usually taken with lime and salt, or a chile and tomato chaser called _sangrita_ , but _añejo_ or _reposado_ tequila (aged in the vat) should be sipped straight, and not wasted in cocktails such as margarita (tequila, lime juice and triple sec – considered a ladies´ drink).  Mexican law allows up to 49 percent cane or corn to be added to the agave from which tequila is made, so unless the label says "100% de agave", it won't be.  The proprietary brands, José Cuervo and Sauza, make bog-standard white tequilas as well as smoother, aged versions (Cuervo Tradicional and Sauza Hornitos), but connoisseurs prefer posher makes such as Herradura or Don Julio. " Gold" tequila contains extraneous colourings and is worth avoiding. 

**Mescal** (often spelled mezcal) is basically the same thing as tequila, but is made from a slightly different variety of plant, the maguey, and is younger and less refined.  In fact, tequila was originally just a variety of mescal.  The spurious belief that the worm in the mescal bottle is hallucinogenic is based on confusion between the drink and the peyote cactus, which is also called mescal, but by the time you've got down as far as the worm, you'll be too far gone to notice anyway. 

**Pulque** , a mildly alcoholic milky beer made from the same maguey cactus, is the traditional drink of the poor and sold in special bars called _pulquerías_.  The best comes from the State of Mexico, and is thick and viscous – it's a little like palm wine, and definitely an acquired taste.  Unfermented _pulque_ , called _aguamiel_ , is sweet and non-alcoholic. 

##### Other spirits and cocktails

Drinking other spirits, you should always ask for **nacional** , as anything imported is fabulously expensive. ** Rum** ( _ron_ ), **gin** ( _ginebra_ ) and **vodka** are made in Mexico, as are some very palatable **brandies** (brandy or coñac – try San Marcos or Presidente).  Most of the **cocktails** for which Mexico is known – margaritas, piñas coladas and so on – are available only in tourist areas or hotel bars, and are generally pretty strong. 

< Back to Mexico Basics

## The media

Newspapers

Television

Radio

The Mexican media can be very sensationalist, and news is mostly local, and often heavily slanted towards the government, but for Spanish-speakers there is an independent press, as well as some interesting programmes on TV. 

### Newspapers

Few domestic **newspapers** carry much foreign news, and the majority of international coverage does not extend beyond Latin America.  Most papers are lurid scandal sheets, brimming with violent crime depicted in full colour.  Each state has its own press, however, and they do vary: while most are little more than government mouthpieces, others are surprisingly independent. 

If you read Spanish you could try _Reforma_ ( reforma.com), which has a good reputation for independence and political objectivity, while the more left-wing _La Jornada_ ( jornada.unam.mx) is quite daringly critical of government and organized crime, and its journalists regularly face death threats as a result.  The press has gradually been asserting its independence since the mid-1990s, tackling such subjects as human rights, corruption and drug trafficking, though journalists still face danger if they speak out, not only from shady government groups but also from drug traffickers.  Reporting on links between the two is particularly dangerous.  At least 26 journalists have been killed in Mexico since 2009, according to press freedom NGO Reporters Without Borders, who rate it as one of the most dangerous countries in the world for journalists. 

< Back to The media

### Television

You can usually pick up a dozen channels in Mexico without cable or satellite.  Four are run by the main **TV** company, Televisa, and another couple by TV Azteca.  Canal 22 tends to show cultural programmes, though they are often rather dry.  Canal Once is the most original and independent channel, and frequently has something quite interesting on, especially late in the evening. ** Cable** and **satellite** are widespread, and even quite budget hotels offer numerous channels, many of them American. 

On Mexican TV you can watch any number of US shows dubbed into Spanish, but far and away the most popular programmes are the _telenovelas_ – soap operas that dominate the screens from 6pm to 10pm and pull in millions of viewers.  Each episode takes melodrama to new heights, with nonstop action and emotions hammed up to the maximum for riveted fans.  Plot lines make national news, and _telenovela_ stars are major celebrities, despite their ludicrously over-the-top acting styles. 

< Back to The media

### Radio

 **Radio** stations in the capital and Guadalajara (among others) have programmes in English for a couple of hours each day, and in many places US broadcasts can also be picked up.  Reactor (in Mexico City on 105.7MHz FM, and online at  reactor.imer.com.mx) plays a mix of music including modern Mexican sounds, and from México state, Radio Chapingo (1610kHz AM,  chapingo.mx/radiochapingo/live) plays the traditional music of indigenous ethnic groups as well as modern Mexican music of various genres.  If you have a short-wave radio, you can get the Voice of America ( voanews.com) and, at certain times, Radio Canada ( ici.radio-canada.ca). 

< Back to Mexico Basics

## Festivals

A festival calendar

Stumbling, perhaps accidentally, onto some Mexican village fiesta may prove to be the highlight of your travels.  Everywhere, from the remotest indigenous village to the most sophisticated city suburb, devotes at least one day annually to partying.  Usually it's in honour of the local saint's day, but many fiestas have pre-Christian origins, and any excuse – from harvest celebrations to the coming of the rains – will do. 

Even the tiniest village in Mexico has an annual fiesta.  They usually last at least a couple of days and often involve some blend of rodeos, bullfights, dancing, fried snacks, carnival rides, fireworks and processions around the church.  They offer a great opportunity to see indigenous dances – such as the **Danza de los Viejitos** (Dance of the Little Old Men) in Michoacán, or the feather-bedecked **quetzales** in Cuetzalan, Puebla.  Details of the most important local fiestas can be found at the end of each chapter, while the most important nationwide are listed below. 

In addition to these, there are plenty of lesser local festivals, as well as certain major festivals celebrated throughout the country.  Traditional dances and music form an essential part of almost every fiesta, and most include a procession behind some revered holy image or a more celebratory secular parade with fireworks.  No two fiestas will be quite the same.  The Catholic saints' calendar provides countless opportunities for celebrating, with many of the biggest events observed with a combination of religious fervour and all-out partying. 

### A festival calendar

# JANUARY

New Year Jan 1.  Still largely an occasion to spend with family, the actual hour being celebrated with the eating of grapes. 

Twelfth Night (Epiphany, Reyes) Jan 6.  Presents are traditionally given on this, the last day of Christmas, when the biblical Magi are believed to have arrived bearing gifts.  Nowadays, things are shifting into line with American custom, and more and more people are exchanging gifts on December 25 instead. 

Ortiz Tirado Music Festival late Jan. A festival of classical music held annually in Alamos, Sonora, in honour of opera singer Alfonso Ortiz Tirado (who died in 1960), draws leading classical musicians and singers from across the world. 

# FEBRUARY

Carnaval moveable.  The last week of taking one's pleasures before the forty-day abstinence of Lent, celebrated throughout the Roman Catholic world, but is at its most exuberant in Latin America.  Like Easter, its date is not fixed, but generally falls in February or early March, celebrated with costumes, parades, eating and dancing, most spectacularly in Veracruz and Mazatlán, working its way up to a climax on the last day, Mardi Gras (Shrove Tues).  Carnaval is celebrated most vigorously in the coastal cities, including Veracruz and San Miguel on Cozumel.  The city of Mazatlán claims to have the world's third-largest Mardi Gras party, after Rio and New Orleans. 

# MARCH

Festival Internacional de Guitarra late March or early April.  A celebration of guitar music held annually in Morelia, and attended by musicians from around the world. 

# APRIL

Semana Santa (Holy Week) moveable.  The country's biggest holiday, beginning on Palm Sunday and finishing a week later on Easter Sunday.  Still a deeply religious festival in Mexico, it celebrates the resurrection of Christ, and is also an occasion to venerate the Virgin Mary, with processions bearing her image now a hallmark of the celebrations.  Pilgrims converge on churches, and people re-enact the Passion of Christ.  The most famous staging is in Iztapalapa, outside Mexico City, where the event involves a cast of thousands, buckets of fake blood and more than a million spectators.  Transport is disrupted everywhere as virtually the whole country is on the move, and you will definitely need to plan ahead if travelling.  Many places close for the whole of Holy Week, and certainly from Thursday to Sunday. 

# MAY

Cinco de Mayo May 5.  Commemorating the 1862 Battle of Puebla, it's a public holiday in Mexico, but is actually celebrated more enthusiastically in the US, where many Gringos (who see the date as a chance to have a theme party involving sombreros, nachos and tequila) have come to believe that it's Mexico's equivalent of the US's July 4.  In Mexico it's not such a big deal, except in Puebla, where it is celebrated with an exuberant fiesta. 

# JUNE

Día de San Juan (St John's Day) June 24.  Celebrating the birth of the biblical St John the Baptist, but also handily close to the summer solstice, this is celebrated with bonfires, fairs, _charreadas_ (rodeos) and sometimes water throwing in towns and villages nationwide. 

# JULY

Día de Santiago (St James's Day) July 25.  An opportunity for a fiesta in many parts of the country, most notably in Chiapas, where big celebrations are held at San Cristóbal de las Casas. 

# AUGUST

Día de la Asunción (Assumption Day) Aug 15.  This is the day when the Virgin Mary is believed to have ascended to heaven, and although it isn't a public holiday, it's celebrated around the country, most notably at Oxkutzcab and Izamal in Yucatán, and Cholula in Puebla State. 

# SEPTEMBER

Independence Day Sept 16.  While Easter and Carnaval are popular, this one is more official, marking the historic day in 1810 when Manuel Hidalgo y Costilla issued the Grito (Cry of Independence) from his parish church in Dolores, now Dolores Hidalgo, Guanajuato, which is still the centre of commemoration.  You'll also find the day marked in the capital with mass recitation of the Grito in the Zócalo, followed by fireworks, music and dancing.  Nevertheless, in some ways it's more solemn than the religious festivals. 

Festival Internacional de Santa Lucía end of Sept and beginning of Oct. Formerly the Festival Cultural of Monterrey's Barrio Antiguo, showcasing local rock bands and other eclectic musicians, this festival has been reborn, having outgrown the confines of the Barrio Antiguo to become a citywide event.  It's now Mexico's third-biggest music festival after Guanajuato's Festival Cervantino and Alamos' Festival Ortiz Tirado. 

# OCTOBER

Festival Internacional Cervantino mid-Oct. Guanajuato's big, two-and-a-half-week music fest, dating back to the 1970s.  Every October, it brings together Mexican marimba legends, French jazz artists, choral music from England and international dance troupes. 

# NOVEMBER

The Day of the Dead (All Saints'/Souls' Day, and its eve) Nov 1–2.  Offerings are made to ancestors' souls, frequently with picnics and all-night vigils at their graves, and people build shrines in their homes to honour their departed relatives.  Sweetmeats and papier-mâché statues of dressed-up skeletons give proceedings a rather gothic air.  Head for cemeteries to see the really spectacular stuff, or to Pátzcuaro. 

# DÍA DE LOS MUERTOS

If visitors know just one Mexican holiday, it's probably the **Day of the Dead** , when families honour and remember those who have died.  Actually taking place over two days, November 1 and 2, it's an indigenous tradition unique to Mexico.  With a few exceptions (such as the beautiful torch-lighting ceremony and festive dances around Lago de Pátzcuaro), it's usually a private rite.  In every home, and in many businesses, people set up _ofrendas_ (altars) for the deceased: the centrepiece is always a photograph, lit by candles.  In addition to the photo, the person's favourite foods are also placed on the altar, as a way of luring the soul back to this world.  For the same reason, strong-scented, bright orange marigolds are often laid in a path leading to the altar, and resinous _copal_ incense is lit. 

On the streets, market stalls brim with eggy, orange-scented _pan de muertos_ and colourfully iced sugar skulls.  Families usually gather to eat dinner on the night of November 1, then visit gravesites, which are also cleaned and decorated.  Far from being a sad time, the Day of the Dead is an occasion for telling funny stories, bonding with family and generally celebrating life. 

# DECEMBER

Día de la Virgen de Guadalupe Dec 12.  Celebrations everywhere, and a huge day for pilgrims at the Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe in Mexico City, home of Mexico's most important Virgin (a manifestation, that is, of the biblical Virgin Mary), who appeared on this day in 1551. 

Christmas Dec 25.  A major holiday, with loads of people on the move and transport booked solid for weeks ahead.  Gringo influence is heavy nowadays, with Santa Claus and Christmas trees, but the Mexican festival remains distinct in many ways, with a much stronger religious element (virtually every home has a Nativity crib).  One of the more bizarre Christmas events takes place in Oaxaca, where there is a public display of Nativity cribs and other sculptures made of radishes. 

< Back to Mexico Basics

## Sports and outdoor activities

Spectator sports

You'll find facilities for golf, tennis, sailing, surfing, scuba diving and deep-sea fishing – even horseriding and hunting – at all the big resorts. 

 **Sport fishing** is enormously popular in Baja California and the big Pacific coast resorts, while freshwater bass fishing is growing in popularity too, especially behind the large dams in the north of the country. ** Diving** and **snorkelling** are big on the Caribbean coast, with world-famous dive sites at Cozumel and on the reefs further south.  The Pacific coast has become something of a centre for **surfing** , with few facilities as yet (though you can rent surfboards in major tourist centres such as Acapulco and Mazatlán) but with plenty of Californian surfers who follow the weather south over the winter.  The most popular places are in Baja California and on the Oaxaca coast, but the biggest waves are to be found around Lázaro Cárdenas in Michoacán.  A more minority-interest activity for which Mexico has become a major centre is **caving**.  With a third of the country built on limestone, there are caverns in most states that can be explored by experienced potholers or spelunkers. 

The Ministry of Tourism publishes a leaflet on participatory sports in Mexico, and can also advise on licences and seasons. 

### Spectator sports

Mexico's chief spectator sport is soccer ( _fútbol_ ).  Mexican teams have not been notably successful on the international stage, but going to a game can still be a thrilling experience.  The capital and Guadalajara are the best places to see a match, and the biggest game in the domestic league, "El Clásico", between Chivas from Guadalajara and América from Mexico City, fills the city's 150,000-seater Aztec stadium to capacity. ** Baseball** ( _béisbol_ ) is also popular, as is **American football** (especially on TV). ** Jai alai** (also known as **frontón** , or **pelota vasca** ) is Basque handball, common in big cities and played at a very high speed with a small hard ball and curved scoop attached to the hand; it's a big gambling game. 

**Mexican rodeos** ( _charreadas_ ), mainly seen in the north of the country, are as spectacular for their style and costume as they are for the events, while **bullfights** remain an obsession: every city has a bullring – Mexico City's Plaza México is the world's largest – and the country's _toreros_ are said to be the world's most reckless, much in demand in Spain.  Another popular blood sport, usually at village level, is **cock fighting** , still legal in Mexico and mainly attended for the opportunity to bet on the outcome. 

Masked **wrestling** ( _lucha libre_ ) is very popular in Mexico, too, with the participants, Batman-like, out of the game for good should their mask be removed and their secret identity revealed.  Nor does the resemblance to comic-book superheroes end in the ring: certain masked wrestlers have become popular social campaigners out of the ring, always ready to turn up just in the nick of time to rescue the beleaguered poor from eviction by various landlords or persecution by corrupt politicians.  For more on wrestling, see Lu Lucha Libre. 

< Back to Mexico Basics

## Culture and etiquette

Sexual harassment and discrimination

Tipping

Mexicans are generally very courteous, and in some ways quite formal.  It is common, for example, to address people as señor or señora, while being too brusque can give quite a bad impression. 

Most Mexicans are also quite religious, and about three-quarters are **Roman Catholic** ; you will often see little altars by the roadside, and many people cross themselves whenever they pass a church.  It is wise to avoid open disrespect for religion unless you are sure of your company.  While male travellers will find the country very easy-going, women may encounter a few difficulties arising from traditional Latin machismo. 

### Sexual harassment and discrimination

 **Machismo** is engrained in the Mexican mentality and, although it's softened to some extent by the gentler mores of indigenous culture, most women will find that a degree of harassment is inevitable. 

On the whole, most hassles will be limited to **comments** ( _piropos_ , supposedly compliments) in the street, but situations that might be quite routine at home can seem threatening without a clear understanding of the nuances of Mexican Spanish.  Avoid eye contact – wearing sunglasses helps.  Any provocation is best ignored – Mexican women are rarely slow with a stream of retaliatory abuse, but it's a dangerous strategy unless you're very sure of your ground, and coming from a foreigner, it may be taken as racism. 

Public transport can be one of the worst places for harassment, especially groping in crowded situations.  On the Mexico City Metro, there are separate women's carriages and passages during rush hours.  Otherwise, if you get a seat, you can hide behind a newspaper. 

Problems are aggravated in the big tourist spots, where legendarily "easy" tourists attract droves of would-be gigolos.  Away from resorts and big cities, though, and especially in indigenous areas, there is rarely any problem – you may as an outsider be treated as an object of curiosity, and usually such curiosity can also extend to friendliness and hospitality.  On the whole, the further from the US border you get, the easier things will become. 

The restrictions imposed on drinking are without a doubt irksome: women can now drink in cantinas, but even in so-called "ladies' bars", "unescorted" women may be looked at with suspicion.  Even in the roughest places, you are unlikely to be refused service nowadays, but whether or not you would feel comfortable drinking there is a different matter. 

< Back to Culture and etiquette

### Tipping

At expensive restaurants in tourist resorts, waiters and waitresses are used to American tipping levels (15–20 percent), but elsewhere levels are more like those in Europe (10–15 percent).  In mid-range and upmarket hotels, you will be expected to tip chambermaids (a few dollars, depending on the standard of the hotel and the length of your stay) and porters (10–20 pesos or a dollar is fine).  It is not usual to tip taxi drivers, but small tips are expected by petrol-station and car-park attendants and the bagboys at supermarkets (all of these will be happy with a few pesos of small change). 

< Back to Mexico Basics

## Shopping

Crafts

Markets

The craft tradition of Mexico, much of it descended directly from arts practised long before the Spanish arrived, is still extremely strong.  Regional and highly localized specialities survive, with villages throughout the republic jealously guarding their reputations – especially in the states of Michoacán, Oaxaca and Chiapas, as well as the Yucatán Peninsula.  There's a considerable amount of Guatemalan textiles and embroidery about, too. 

### Crafts

To buy crafts, there is no need to visit the place of origin – **shops** in Mexico City and all the big resorts gather the best and most popular items from around the country.  On the other hand, it's a great deal more enjoyable to see where the articles come from, and certainly the only way to get any real bargains.  The good stuff is rarely inexpensive wherever you buy it, however, and there is an enormous amount of dross produced specifically for tourists. 

**FONART shops** , in major centres throughout Mexico, are run by a government agency ( fonart.gob.mx) devoted to the promotion and preservation of crafts; their wares are always excellent, if expensive, and the shops should be visited to get an idea of what is available.  Where no such store exists, you can get a similar idea by looking at the best of the tourist shops. 

Among the most popular items are: **silver** , the best of which is wrought in Taxco, although rarely mined there; **pottery** , made almost everywhere, with different techniques, designs and patterns in each region; **woollen goods** , especially blankets, which are again made everywhere, and _sarapes_ from Oaxaca – always check the fibres and go for more expensive natural dyes; **leather** , especially tyre-tread-soled _huaraches_ (sandals), sold cheaply wherever you go; **glass** from Jalisco; **lacquerware** , particularly from Uruapán; and **hammocks** , the best of which are sold in Mérida. 

It is illegal to buy or sell antiquities, and even more criminal to try taking them out of the country (moreover, many items sold as valuable antiquities are little more than worthless fakes) – best just to look. 

< Back to Shopping

### Markets

For bargain hunters, the **mercado** (market) is the place to head.  There's one in every Mexican town which, on the traditional market day, will be at its busiest with villagers from the surrounding area bringing their produce for sale or barter.  Mercados are mainly dedicated to food and everyday necessities, but most have a section devoted to crafts, and in larger towns you may find a separate crafts bazaar. 

Unless you're completely hopeless at bargaining, prices will always be lower in the market than in shops, but shops do have a couple of advantages.  First, they exercise a degree of quality control, whereas any old junk can be sold in the market; and second, many established shops will be able to ship purchases home for you, which saves an enormous amount of frustrating bureaucracy. 

**Bargaining** and haggling are very much a matter of personal style, highly dependent on your command of Spanish, aggressiveness and, to some extent, experience.  The old tricks (never showing the least sign of interest – let alone enthusiasm – and walking away will always cut the price dramatically) do still hold true; but make sure you know what you want, its approximate value and how much you are prepared to pay.  Never start to haggle for something you definitely don't intend to buy – it'll end in bad feelings on both sides.  In shops there's little chance of significantly altering the official price unless you're buying in bulk, and even in markets most food and simple household goods have a set price (though it may be doubled at the sight of an approaching gringo). 

< Back to Mexico Basics

## Travelling with children

Children under the age of 18 can enter the country either with their own passport or on the passport of a parent with whom they are travelling, but if they are not accompanied by both parents, they will need written consent from whichever parent is not with them (or from both if they are on their own). 

Travelling with younger kids is not uncommon – most Mexicans dote on children and they often help to break the ice with strangers.  The main problem, especially with small children, is their extra vulnerability.  They need protecting from the sun, unsafe drinking water, heat and unfamiliar food.  Chile peppers in particular may be a problem for kids who are not used to them.  Diarrhoea can also be dangerous for younger children: rehydration salts are vital.  Ensure that your child is aware of the dangers of rabies and other animal-borne illnesses; keep children away from all animals and consider a rabies shot. 

For touring, hiking or walking, child-carrier backpacks are ideal: they can weigh less than 2kg.  If the child is small enough, a fold-up buggy is also well worth packing – especially if they will sleep in it while you have a meal or a drink. 

< Back to Mexico Basics

## Travel essentials

Costs

Electricity

Insurance

Internet

Laundry

LGBT travellers

Living in Mexico

Mail

Maps

Money

Opening hours

Phones

Photography

Senior travellers

Time

Toilets

Tourist information

Travellers with disabilities

### Costs

The developed tourist resorts and big cities are invariably more expensive than more remote towns, and certain other areas also have noticeably higher prices – among them the industrialized north.  Prices can also be affected by **season** and many hotels raise their prices during busy times of the year.  Summer, Christmas and Easter are the peak times for Mexican tourists, and areas like Acapulco and Cancún, which attract large numbers of overseas visitors, put their prices up during the high season.  Special events are also likely to be marked by price hikes. 

Nonetheless, wherever you go you can probably get by on US$450/£290/€403 a week (you could reduce that if you hardly travel around, stay on campsites or in hostels, live on basic food and don't buy any souvenirs, though this requires a lot of discipline); you'd be living well on US$650/£418/€582. 

As always, if you're **travelling alone** you'll end up spending more – sharing rooms and food saves a substantial amount.  In the larger resorts, you can get apartments for up to six people for even greater savings.  If you have an **International Student** or **Youth Card** , you might find the occasional reduction on a museum admission price, but don't go out of your way to obtain one, since most concessions are, at least in theory, only for Mexican students.  Cards available include the ISIC card for full-time students and the International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) for under-31s, both of which are available from youth travel firms such as STA Travel ( statravel.com).  A university or college photo ID card might even work in some places. 

Most restaurant bills come with fifteen **percent IVA** (Impuesto de Valor Añadido, or Valued Added Sales Tax) added; this may not always be included in prices quoted on the menu. ** Service** is sometimes added to bills; if not, the amount you tip is entirely up to you – in cheap places, it's typically 10–15 percent, but more like 15–20 percent in smarter venues.  For more details, see Tipping. 

< Back to Travel essentials

### Electricity

Theoretically 110 volts AC, with simple two-flat-pin rectangular plugs – most North American appliances can be used as they are.  Travellers from the UK, Ireland, Europe, Australasia and South Africa should bring along a converter and a plug adaptor.  Cuts in service and fluctuations in current sometimes occur. 

< Back to Travel essentials

### Insurance

There are no reciprocal health arrangements between Mexico and any other country, so travel **insurance** is essential.  Credit cards (particularly American Express) often have certain levels of medical or other insurance included, and travel insurance may also be included if you use a major credit card to pay for your trip.  Some package tours, too, may include insurance. 

Before paying for a new policy, it's worth checking whether you are already covered: some all-risks home insurance policies may cover your possessions when overseas, and many private medical schemes include cover when abroad.  In Canada, provincial health plans usually provide partial cover for medical mishaps overseas, while holders of official student/teacher/youth cards in Canada and the US are entitled to meagre accident coverage and hospital in-patient benefits.  Students in Canada and the US will often find that their health insurance policies extend over the holidays and for one term beyond the date of last enrolment. 

After exhausting the possibilities above, you might want to contact a specialist travel insurance company, or consider the travel insurance deal offered by Rough Guides.  A typical travel insurance policy usually provides cover for the loss of baggage, tickets and – up to a certain limit – cash or cheques, as well as cancellation or curtailment of your journey.  Most of them exclude so-called **dangerous sports** unless an extra premium is paid: in Mexico this can mean scuba diving, whitewater rafting, windsurfing and trekking, though probably not kayaking or jeep safaris.  Many policies can be chopped and changed to exclude coverage you don't need – for example, sickness and accident benefits can often be excluded or included at will.  If you do take medical coverage, ascertain whether benefits will be paid as treatment proceeds or only after your return home, and whether there is a 24-hour medical emergency number.  When securing **baggage cover** , make sure that the per-article limit – typically under US$1000/£640 – will cover your most valuable possession.  If you need to make a claim, you should keep receipts for medicines and medical treatment, and in the event you have anything stolen, you must make an official statement to the police and obtain a copy of the declaration ( _copia de la declaración_ ) for your insurance company. 

# ROUGH GUIDES TRAVEL INSURANCE

Rough Guides has teamed up with WorldNomads.com to offer great travel insurance deals.  Policies are available to residents of over 150 countries, with cover for a wide range of adventure sports, 24hr emergency assistance, high levels of medical and evacuation cover and a stream of travel safety information.  Roughguides.com users can take advantage of their policies online 24/7, from anywhere in the world – even if you're already travelling.  And since plans often change when you're on the road, you can extend your policy and even claim online.  Roughguides.com users who buy travel insurance with WorldNomads.com can also leave a positive footprint and donate to a community development project.  For more information, go to  roughguides.com/travel-insurance. 

< Back to Travel essentials

### Internet

 **Internet** cafés are easy to find in all the larger cities and resort destinations, and the level of service is usually excellent.  One or two offer cheap VOIP phone calls too.  In smaller towns and villages, such facilities are still rare.  Depending on where you are, internet access can cost anything from M$8 to M$25 an hour.  Major tourist resorts can be the most expensive places, and in these areas it's best to look for cheaper internet cafés around the town centre and avoid those in the luxury hotel zones.  Internet facilities in large cities are usually open from early morning until late at night, but in smaller towns they have shorter opening hours and may not open on Sundays.  Wi-fi (generally free) is widespread in hotels, hostels, restaurants, cafés and even town plazas. 

# USEFUL WEBSITES

Latin America Bureau  lab.org.uk.  Website of this well-respected UK-based charity with the latest news, analysis and information from across the region, including Mexico. 

Mexico Cooks!   mexicocooks.typepad.com.  This culinary blog will get your mouth watering with restaurant reviews, recipes and foodie news. 

The News  thenews.mx.  Handy English-language website with news, features and sports updates from across Mexico. 

The Yucatan Times  theyucatantimes.com.  English-language news site focusing on the touristy peninsula. 

Visit Mexico  visitmexico.com.  The country's official tourist website is worth a visit. 

< Back to Travel essentials

### Laundry

 _Lavanderías_ (laundries) are ubiquitous in Mexico, as the majority of households don't own a washing machine.  Most _lavanderías_ charge by the kilo, and for a few dollars you'll get your clothes back clean, pressed and perfectly folded in less than 24 hours.  Many hotels also offer laundry services that, although convenient, tend to charge by the item, adding up to a considerably greater cost. 

< Back to Travel essentials

### LGBT travellers

There are no federal laws governing **homosexuality** in Mexico, and hence it's **legal**.  There are, however, laws enforcing "public morality", which, although they are supposed only to apply to prostitution, are often used against gays.  1997 saw the election of Mexico's first "out" congresswoman, the left-wing PRD's Patria Jiménez, and in 2003 the federal parliament passed a law against discrimination on various grounds including sexual preference.  In 2005, however, a gay man from Tampico successfully claimed political asylum in the US after demonstrating the extent of persecution he faced in his hometown.  There have been more positive moves recently, though: in June 2015 the Supreme Court issued a "jurisprudential thesis" that changed the legal definition of marriage to include same-sex couples. 

There are a large number of **gay groups** and **publications** in Mexico.  The **lesbian** scene is not as visible or as large as the gay scene for men, but it's there and growing.  There are gay bars and clubs in the major resorts and US border towns, and in large cities such as the capital, and also Monterrey, Guadalajara, Veracruz and Oaxaca; elsewhere, private parties are where it all happens, and you'll need a contact to find them. 

As far as popular **attitudes** are concerned, religion and machismo are the order of the day, and prejudice is rife, but attitudes are changing.  Soft-core porn magazines for gay men are sold openly on street stalls and, while you should be careful to avoid upsetting macho sensibilities, you should have few problems if you are discreet.  In Juchitán, Oaxaca, on the other hand, gay male transvestites, known as _muxes_ , are accepted as a kind of third sex, and the town even has a transvestite basketball team. 

You can check the latest gay rights situation in Mexico on the International Gay and Lesbian Human Rights Commission website at  iglhrc.org, and information on the male gay scene in Mexico (gay bars, meeting places and cruising spots) can be found in the annual _Spartacus Gay Guide_ , available in specialist bookshops at home, or online at  spartacusworld.com. 

< Back to Travel essentials

### Living in Mexico

There's virtually no chance of finding temporary **work** in Mexico unless you have some very specialized skill and have arranged the position beforehand.  Work **permits** are almost impossible to obtain.  The few foreigners who manage to find work do so mostly in language schools.  It may be possible, though not legal, to earn money as a private English tutor by advertising in a local newspaper or at a university. 

The best way to extend your time in Mexico is on a **study programme** or **volunteer project**.  A US organization called AmeriSpan selects language schools in countries worldwide, including Mexico, to match the needs and requirements of students, and provides advice and support.  For further information, call (US or Canada)  1 800 879 6640 or  1 215 531 8001, or see  amerispan.com. 

Volunteers need to apply for a voluntary work visa (FM3), for which you will need to present a letter of invitation from the organization for which you are volunteering. 

# STUDY AND WORK PROGRAMMES

AFS Intercultural Programs  afs.org; US  1 800 237 4636,  afsusa.org; Canada  1 800 361 7248 or  1 514 288 3282,  en.afscanada.org; Australia  1 300 131 736,  afs.org.au; New Zealand  0800 600 300 or  04 494 6020,  afs.org.nz; South Africa  0861 237 468 or  011 431 0113,  afs.org.za; international enquiries  +1 212 807 8686.  Intercultural exchange organization with programmes in over fifty countries, including Mexico (but there's no branch in the UK). 

Casa Hoy Río Mexapa 130, Colonia Hacienda Tetela, 62160 Cuernavaca, Morelos, Mexico  777 176 7868,  hoycommunity-online.net.  A volunteers' hostel which can organize short-term community service activities as well as contacts with local activists and cultural immersion. 

Council on International Educational Exchange (CIEE) US  1 207 553 4000,  ciee.org.  Leading NGO offering study programmes around the world including Mexico. 

Earthwatch Institute UK  01865 318 838, US & Canada  1 978 461 0081, Australia  03 9682 6828;  earthwatch.org.  Matches volunteers with scientists working on particular projects, sometimes in Mexico, but it's not cheap: volunteers must raise a minimum contribution (average about US$3000) to the cost of research for each one- to two-week stint. 

Studyabroad.com UK  01865 318 838, US  1 484 766 2920,  studyabroad.com.  Language programmes, semester-long and year-long courses and internships in Guadalajara, Cuernavaca, Puebla and Mexico City. 

Volunteer South America  volunteersouthamerica.net.  A useful site with links to free and low-cost volunteering opportunities across Latin America, including Mexico. 

< Back to Travel essentials

### Mail

Mexican **postal services** ( _correos_ ) can be quite slow and unreliable.  Airmail to the capital should arrive within a few days, but it may take a couple of weeks to get anywhere at all remote.  Packages frequently go astray. ** Post offices** (generally open Mon–Fri 8am–4.30pm, Sat 8am–noon, sometimes longer at the central office in big cities) usually offer a **poste restante/general delivery** service: letters should be addressed to "Lista de Correos".  Mail is held for two weeks, though you may get around that by sending it to "Poste Restante" with "Favor de retener hasta la llegada" (please hold until arrival) on the envelope.  Letters are often filed incorrectly, so you should have staff check under all your initials.  To collect, you will need your passport or some other official ID with a photograph.  There is no fee. 

For personal mail, Mexican **addresses** begin with the street and house number.  The number goes after the street name (Juárez 123 rather than 123 Juárez), and is followed if appropriate by the floor or apartment number ( _planta baja_ means ground floor).  After that comes the _cólonia_ (the immediate neighbourhood), then the town, then finally the zip code and the state (on one line in that order – in the case of Mexico City, "México DF" is the equivalent of the state). 

Sending letters and cards home is also easy enough, if slow.  Anything sent **abroad** by air should have an airmail ( _por avión_ ) stamp on it or it is liable to go by surface mail.  Letters should take around a week to North America, two to Europe or Australasia, but can take much longer (postcards in particular are likely to be slow).  Anything at all important should be taken to the post office and preferably registered rather than dropped in a mailbox, although the dedicated airmail boxes in resorts and big cities are supposed to be more reliable than ordinary ones.  Postcards or letters up to 20g cost M$11.50 to North America or the Caribbean, M$13.50 to the British Isles, Europe or South America and M$15 to Australasia, Asia, Africa or the Pacific. 

The process of sending **packages** out of the country is drowned in bureaucracy.  Regulations about the thickness of brown paper wrapping and the amount of string used vary from state to state, but any package must be checked by customs and have its paperwork stamped by at least three other departments.  Take your package (unsealed) to any post office and they'll set you on your way.  Many stores will send your purchases home for you, which is much easier.  Within the country, you can send a package by bus if there is someone to collect it at the other end. 

< Back to Travel essentials

### Maps

Reliable options available outside of Mexico include Mexico road maps published by Globetrotter (1:3,500,000), GeoCenter (1:2,500,000), Hallwag (1:2,500,000) and Freytag & Berndt (1:2,000,000).  In Mexico itself, the best maps are those produced by Guía Roji, who also publish a Mexican road atlas and a Mexico City street guide.  Guía Roji maps are widely available – try branches of Sanborn's or large Pemex stations – and can also be ordered online at  tienda.guiaroji.com.mx. 

More detailed, large-scale maps – for hiking or climbing – are harder to come by.  The most detailed, easily available area maps are produced by International Travel Map Productions ( itmb.ca), whose Travellers' Reference Map series covers various regions of the country.  INEGI, the Mexican office of statistics, also produce very good topographic maps on various scales.  They have an office in every state capital (addresses on their website at  inegi.org.mx – click on "Productos y Servicios", then on "Atención a Usuarios" and finally select "Centros de Información INEGI").  Unfortunately, stocks can run rather low, so don't count on being able to buy the ones that you want. 

< Back to Travel essentials

### Money

The Mexican **peso** , usually written $, is made up of 100 centavos (¢, like a US cent).  Bills come in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $200, $500 and $1000, with coins of 10¢, 20¢, 50¢, $1, $2, $5 and $10.  The use of the dollar symbol for the peso is occasionally confusing; the initials MN ( _moneda nacional_ or national coin) are occasionally used to indicate that it's Mexican, not American, money that is being referred to.  Prices in this Snapshot are generally quoted in Mexican pesos (M$).  Note, however, that these will be affected by factors such as inflation and exchange rates.  Check an online currency converter such as XE ( xe.com) or OANDA ( oanda.com) for up-to-date rates.  At the time of writing, US$1 was worth approximately M$17, CAN$1 approximately M$12, £1 sterling approximately M$25 and €1 approximately M$19.  Some tour operators and large hotels quote prices in US dollars, and accept payment in that currency. 

#### ATMs

The easiest way to access your money in Mexico is in the form of **plastic** , though it's a good idea to also have some cash back-up.  Using a Visa, MasterCard, Plus or Cirrus card, you can withdraw cash from **ATMs** in most towns and tourist resorts.  By using these you get trade exchange rates, which are somewhat better than those charged by banks for changing cash, though your card issuer may well add a foreign transaction fee, and these can be as much as five percent, so check with your issuer before leaving home.  Local ATM providers may also charge a transaction fee, typically around M$30; generally speaking, rates and fees make it cheaper to use an ATM for more than around US$100/£65, but to change cash in a _casa de cambio_ for anything much less than that.  If you use a credit card rather than a debit card, note all cash advances and ATM withdrawals obtained are treated as loans, with interest accruing daily from the date of withdrawal.  Travellers' cheques are increasingly difficult to change in Mexico, but it is possible to get a **prepaid card** , like a form of travellers' cheques in plastic, which you charge up with funds at home and then use to withdraw money from ATMs – MasterCard, Visa and American Express all issue them.  Some ATMs in big city centres and resorts can issue US dollars as well as – or instead of – pesos. 

#### Banks and exchange

Banks are generally open Monday to Friday from 9.30am to 5pm, often with shorter hours for **exchange**.  Commission on currency exchange varies but the exchange rate is fixed daily by the government.  Not all banks can change money, and only larger branches of the big banks, plus some in tourist resorts, will change currencies other than dollars – and even then at worse rates than you would get for the dollar equivalent. 

**Casas de cambio** ( _forex bureaux_ aka _bureaux de change_ ) have varying exchange rates and commission charges, and tend to have shorter queues, less bureaucratic procedures and longer opening hours.  The exchange rates are generally better than at banks, but always worth checking, especially for travellers' cheques.  Some _casas de cambio_ will change only US dollars, but others take euros, Canadian dollars, pounds sterling and other currencies.  $100 bills usually attract a better rate than small bills.  Again, it's worth shopping around, especially if you intend to change a large sum.  Even in a _casa de cambio_ , you'll need your passport to change money. 

Guatemalan quetzales and Belizean dollars are best got rid of before entering Mexico; otherwise, your best bet for changing them is with tourists heading the other way – try  weswap.com, a useful website that allows travellers to swap foreign currency with each other.  It is a good idea to change other currencies into US dollars at home before coming to Mexico, since the difference in the exchange rate more than outweighs the amount you lose in changing your money twice.  In some touristy places, such as Acapulco and Tijuana, US dollar bills are almost as easy to spend as pesos.  If you're desperate, hotels, shops and restaurants that are used to tourists may change dollars or accept them as payment, but rates will be very low. 

< Back to Travel essentials

### Opening hours

It's almost impossible to generalize about **opening hours** in Mexico; even when times are posted at museums, tourist offices and shops, they're not always adhered to. 

The **siesta** is still around, and many places will close for a couple of hours in the early afternoon, usually from 1pm to 3pm.  Where it's hot – especially on the Gulf coast and in the Yucatán – everything may close for up to four hours in the middle of the day, and then reopen until 8pm or 9pm.  In central Mexico, the industrial north and highland areas, hours are more like the standard nine-to-five, and shops do not close for lunch. 

Shops tend to keep long hours, say from 9am to 8pm.  Museums and galleries open from about 9am or 10am to 5pm or 6pm.  Many have reduced entry fees – or are free – on Sunday, and most are closed on Monday.  Some museums close for lunch, but archeological sites are open all day.  For opening of post offices, see the section on Mail; for banks, see Banks and exchange. 

# USEFUL AND EMERGENCY NUMBERS

General emergency number  066

Police  060

Fire  068

Ambulance  065

Green Angels (tourist highway breakdown)  078

National operator  020

International operator  090

Directory enquiries  040

Tourist information  078

< Back to Travel essentials

### Phones

Local **phone** calls in Mexico are cheap, and some hotels will let you call locally for free.  Coin-operated **public phones** exist, but internal long-distance calls are best made with a **phonecard** (sold at newsstands and usable in public phones on almost every street corner).  Slightly more expensive, but often more convenient, are _casetas de teléfono_ (phone offices), mainly found at bus stations and airports.  Calling abroad with a phonecard or from a _caseta_ is expensive.  Some internet offices offer **VOIP international calls** , which may be cheaper, but the line will not be as good.  Skype is generally the best option. 

It is also possible to **call collect** ( _por cobrar_ ).  In theory, you should be able to make an international collect call from any public phone, by dialling the international operator ( 090).  If you have a calling card from your home phone company, you can use the company's toll-free number and have the call billed to you at home. 

Calling Mexico from abroad, dial the international access code ( 011 from the US or Canada,  00 from Britain, Ireland or New Zealand,  0011 from Australia,  09 from South Africa), followed by the **country code** for Mexico, which is 52.  Mexican **numbers** are ten-digit including the area code ( _lada_ ), which is usually three digits, although Mexico City ( 55), Guadalajara ( 33) and Monterrey ( 81) have two-digit area codes.  The number itself is usually seven digits, again excepting Mexico City, Guadalajara and Monterrey, where phone numbers have eight digits.  If dialling from abroad, you dial the area code immediately after the 52 for Mexico.  If dialling long-distance within Mexico, or from a mobile, you need to dial  01, then the area code and the number.  If dialling from a landline with the same area code, you omit it.  The area code for toll-free numbers is  800, always preceded by the  01. 

# DIALLING CODES

Mexico long-distance  01 \+ area code + number

US & Canada  001 \+ area code + number

UK  00 44 \+ area code (minus initial zero) + number

Ireland  00 353 \+ area code (minus initial zero) + number

Australia  00 61 \+ area code (minus initial zero) + number

New Zealand  00 64 \+ area code (minus initial zero) + number

South Africa  00 27 \+ area code (minus initial zero) + number

#### Mobile phones

To use a **mobile phone** in Mexico is expensive if you simply take your own phone and use it under a roaming agreement.  If you are there for any length of time, buy a prepaid phone (around M$500–800, including a varying amount of call credit).  You can buy a Mexican SIM-card (around M$100–200) to get a Mexican number for your own handset, but this involves registering your identity (so you'll need a passport, and you may need to go to the phone company's main office), something that doesn't always work for a foreigner, so make sure your mobile works before you leave the store.  Your phone charger will not work in Mexico if it is designed for a 220–240v electricity supply.  Calls from mobiles are pricey, and with a SIM-card from abroad you pay to receive as well as make international calls. 

Like landlines, Mexican mobile phones have ten-digit numbers, of which the first two or three are the area code.  Generally speaking, to call a mobile from a landline, first dial  044 if it has the same area code,  045 if not, or the international access code plus  52-1 if calling from abroad, and then the ten-digit number; note, however, that some mobile numbers work in the same way as dialling landline numbers – unfortunately, you cannot tell from the number alone how it will work. 

< Back to Travel essentials

### Photography

It's easy enough to get prints made from a **USB** stick in Mexico. ** Film** is also manufactured in the country and, if you buy it from a chain store like Sanborn's rather than at a tourist store, costs no more than at home.  Slide film is hard to come by, and any sort of camera hardware will be expensive. 

< Back to Travel essentials

### Senior travellers

Mexico is not a country that offers any special difficulties – or any special advantages – to **older travellers** , but the same considerations apply here as to anywhere else in the world.  If choosing a package tour, consider one run by firms such as Road Scholar ( roadscholar.org) or Saga ( saga.co.uk), which specialize in holidays for the over-50s. 

Do remember that Mexico's high altitude, desert heat and tropical humidity can tire you out a lot faster than you might otherwise expect.  As far as comfort is concerned, first-class buses are generally pretty pleasant, with plenty of legroom.  Second-class buses can be rather more boneshaking, and you may not want to take them for too long a journey. 

Senior citizens are often entitled to **discounts** at tourist sights, and on occasion for accommodation and transport, something which it's always worth asking about. 

< Back to Travel essentials

### Time

Five **time zones** exist in Mexico.  Most of the country is on GMT–6 in winter, GMT–5 in summer (first Sun in April till last Sun in Oct), the same as US Central Time.  Baja California Sur, Sinaloa, Nayarit and Chihuahua are on GMT–7 in winter, GMT–6 in summer (the same as US Mountain Time).  Baja California is on GMT–8 in winter, GMT–7 in summer, the same as the US West Coast (Pacific Time); and finally, Sonora is on GMT–7 all year round, and does not observe daylight saving time.  The state of Quintana Roo changed time zones in early 2015, moving to GMT–5 in winter and GMT–4 in summer, bringing it into line with Eastern Standard Time. 

< Back to Travel essentials

### Toilets

Public toilets in Mexico are usually decent enough, but in bars or hole-in-the-wall restaurants, they can be quite basic, and may not have paper.  It's therefore wise to carry toilet paper with you.  In bus stations, you usually have to pay to use them.  Paper should usually be placed in a bin after use, rather than flushed, as it may otherwise block the plumbing. 

Toilets are usually known as _baños_ (literally bathrooms) or as _excusados_ or _sanitarios_.  The most common signs are "Damas" (Ladies) and "Caballeros" (Gentlemen), though you may find the more confusing "Señoras" (Women) and "Señores" (Men) or even symbols of the moon (women) and sun (men). 

< Back to Travel essentials

### Tourist information

The first place to head for **information** , and for free maps of the country and many towns, is the Mexican Government Ministry of Tourism ( **Secretaría de Turismo** , abbreviated to **SECTUR** ;  sectur.gob.mx, with travel information at  visitmexico.com), which has offices throughout Mexico and abroad. 

Once you're in Mexico, you'll find tourist offices (sometimes called _turismos_ ) in most towns.  Each state capital will have one run by SECTUR, but most are run by state and municipal authorities; sometimes there'll be two or three rival ones in the same town.  Many tourist offices are extremely friendly and helpful, with informed staff and free information and leaflets by the cart-load, but others are barely capable of answering the simplest enquiry.  We have listed the most useful ones in the relevant city and regional sections throughout the Guide.  You can also call SECTUR toll-free round the clock in Mexico at  078 or  800 006 8839, or toll-free from the US or Canada on  1 866 640 0597, or from the UK  00 800 1111 2266. 

# GOVERNMENT TRAVEL ADVICE

Australian Department of Foreign Affairs  smartraveller.gov.au. 

British Foreign & Commonwealth Office  gov.uk/government/organisations/foreign-commonwealth-office. 

Canadian Department of Foreign Affairs  voyage.gc.ca. 

US State Department  travel.state.gov. 

< Back to Travel essentials

### Travellers with disabilities

An estimated five percent of Mexicans have some kind of significant disability, and Mexico has made massive advances in accessibility in recent years, although problems still remain.  Ramps and wheelchair accessibility are now the norm in public buildings, and braille is increasingly common on public notices too.  The real scandal so far as people with disabilities are concerned is the continued abuse of those confined to residential institutions or living on the street. 

Hotels vary, but, especially at the top end of the market, it shouldn't be too difficult to find accommodation and tour operators who can cater for your particular needs.  If you stick to **beach resorts** – Cancún and Acapulco in particular – and top-end hotels, you should be able to find places that are wheelchair-friendly and used to disabled guests.  US chains are very good for this, with Choice, Days Inn, Holiday Inn, Leading Hotels of the World, Marriott, Radisson, Ramada, Sheraton and Westin claiming to have the necessary facilities for at least some disabilities in some of their hotels.  Check in advance with tour companies, hotels and airlines that they can accommodate you specifically. 

Unless you have your own **transport** , the best way to travel in Mexico may be by air; buses still rarely cater for disabled people and wheelchairs.  Kerb ramps are increasingly common, especially in big cities, but less so in smaller places, where streets and pavements may not be in great nick, and people are not especially more likely to volunteer help than at home.  Depending on your disability, you may want to find an able-bodied helper to accompany you. 

# RESOURCES

Disabled Holidays UK  01457 833 444,  disabledholidaydirectory.co.uk.  UK travel agency specializing in holidays for people with disabilities.  Their website has a page on Mexico, with information on accessible hotels across the country. 

Mexico Accesible Mexico  322 225 0989, US  1 866 519 6165, Canada  1 877 839 3484,  accesiblemexico.com.  A Puerto Vallarta firm offering a range of services, from mobility equipment to wheelchair-friendly timeshares. 

< Back to Mexico Basics

# Maps

Mexico

Mexico City

Central Mexico City

Zona Rosa, Roma and Condesa

Chapultepec and Polanco

Coyoacán and San Ángel

Mexico City Metro

Map symbols

< Back to Maps

##  Small print

This ebook contains material published in print in June 2016 in the tenth edition of **The Rough Guide to Mexico** by

**Rough Guides Ltd**

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Rough Guides is represented in Canada by Tourmaline Editions Inc. 662 King Street West, Suite 304, Toronto, Ontario M5V 1M7

© Rough Guides 2016  
ISBN: 9780241239933

Maps © Rough Guides

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No part of this ebook may be reproduced in any form without the permission from the publisher except for the quotation of brief passages in reviews. 

The publishers and authors have done their best to ensure the accuracy and currency of all the information in the **Rough Guide Snapshot Mexico City** , however, they can accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by any traveller as a result of information or advice contained in the guide. 

This digital edition published 2016 by Rough Guides Ltd.  
ISBN: 9780241290699

Cover: Shrine of Our Lady of Guadalupe, Mexico city © 123RF/Alberto Loyo

##  Photo credits

All photos © Rough Guides except the following:

Corbis/Danny Lehman

Corbis/Frederic Soltan

Corbis/fstop/Paul Garnier

Getty Images/Harald Sund

Getty Images/LatinContent

Getty Images/Mark Hannaford

Robert Harding Picture Library/Glow Images

Robert Harding Picture Library/Oliviero Olivieri

## Help us update

We've gone to a lot of effort to ensure that this **Rough Guides Snapshot Mexico City** is accurate and up-to-date.  However, things change – places get "discovered", opening hours are notoriously fickle, restaurants and rooms raise prices or lower standards.  If you feel we've got it wrong or left something out, we'd like to know, and if you can remember the address, the price, the hours, the phone number, so much the better. 

Please send your comments with the subject line " **Rough Guide Mexico Update** " to mail@uk.roughguides.com.  We'll credit all contributions and send a copy of the next edition (or any other Rough Guide if you prefer) for the very best emails. 

Find more travel information, connect with fellow travellers and plan your trip on roughguides.com. 

## A ROUGH GUIDE TO ROUGH GUIDES

Published in 1982, the first Rough Guide – to Greece – was a student scheme that became a publishing phenomenon.  Mark Ellingham, a recent graduate in English from Bristol University, had been travelling in Greece the previous summer and couldn't find the right guidebook.  With a small group of friends he wrote his own guide, combining a highly contemporary, journalistic style with a thoroughly practical approach to travellers' needs. 

The immediate success of the book spawned a series that rapidly covered dozens of destinations.  And, in addition to impecunious backpackers, Rough Guides soon acquired a much broader readership that relished the guides' wit and inquisitiveness as much as their enthusiastic, critical approach and value-for-money ethos. 

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