 
Frommer's Puerto Rico

11th Edition

by John Marino

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John Wiley & Sons, Inc.

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Back Cover Photo: Colorful buildings in San Juan's Old Town ©Brian Jannsen / Alamy Images

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Note About Maps

This guide contains dozens of maps of varying sizes and complexity.  If you find it hard to read a map on your device, use the zoom function to enlarge.  You can also download and/or printout PDFs of all of the maps in this guide.  Go to www.frommers.com/go/ebookmaps and click on the title of your guide. 

List of Maps

Puerto Rico

Suggested Puerto Rico Itineraries

San Juan Orientation

Old San Juan Hotels & Restaurants

Puerta de Tierra, Miramar, Condado &   
Ocean Park Hotels & Restaurants

Isla Verde Hotels & Restaurants

Old San Juan Attractions

San Juan Attractions

Attractions Near San Juan

Ponce

Mayagüez

Western Puerto Rico & the Northwest Coast

Eastern Puerto Rico

Vieques & Culebra 

# Frommer's Puerto Rico®, 11th Edition

**Table of Contents**

 Chapter 1: The Best of Puerto Rico

The Most Unforgettable Puerto Rico Experiences

The Best Beach Experiences

The Best Snorkeling and Diving

The Best Golf Courses

The Best Day Hikes

The Best Family Experiences

The Most Romantic Moments

The Best Ways To See Puerto Rico Like A Local

The Best Places To Get Away From It All

The Best Historic Sites

The Best Food and Drink Experiences

The Best Offbeat Experiences

 Chapter 2: Puerto Rico In Depth

Puerto Rico Today

A Changing Economy

Relationship with the United States

Governmental Structure

The Tourism Industry

Crime and Unemployment

The 51st State? 

Looking Back: Puerto Rico History

In the Beginning

Spain, Syphilis and Slavery

Pirates and Pillaging Englishmen

A Dutch Threat

A Catholic Crusade

From Smuggling to Sugar

More Smuggling

Rising Power

The Last Bastion

A Revolt Suppressed and Slavery Abolished

The Yanks Are Coming!  The Yanks Are Coming! 

A Dubious Prize

From Harvard to Revolution

Shooting at Harry

Give Me Liberty or Give Me Statehood

Puerto Rico Population and Pop Culture

Languages

Religions

Eating and Drinking

Appetizers and Soups

Main Courses

The Aroma of Coffee

Rum: Kill-Devil or Whiskey-Belly Vengeance

When to Go

Climate

The "Season"

Puerto Rico Calendar of EventsJanuary

Year-Round Festivals

Responsible Travel

 Chapter 3: Suggested Puerto Rico Itineraries

The Regions in Brief

San Juan

The Northwest: Arecibo, Rio Camuy, Rincon and More

Dorado and the North Coast

The Northeast: El Yunque, a Nature Reserve andFajardo

The Southwest: Ponce, Mayagüez, San German and More

The Southeast: Palmas del Mar and More

The Offshore Islands: Culebra, Vieques and More

 Chapter 4: San Juan Hotels and Restaurants

Orientation

Arriving by Plane

Visitor Information

City Layout

Neighborhoods in Brief

Getting Around

Where to Eat

San Juan's Best Dining Bets

Old San Juan

Puerta de Tierra

Condado

Miramar

Santurce and Ocean Park

Near Ocean Park

Isla Verde

Near Isla Verde

Hato Rey

Cataño

Where to Stay

San Juan's Best Lodging Bets

Old San Juan

Condado

Miramar

Santurce and Ocean Park

Isla Verde

 Chapter 5: San Juan Attractions

Seeing the Sights

Forts

Churches

Museums

Historic Sights

Historic Squares

Parks and Gardens

Sightseeing Tours

Especially for Kids

Diving, Fishing, Tennis and Other Outdoor Pursuits

The Beaches

Sports and Other Outdoor Pursuits

Shopping

Antiques

Art

Books

Carnival Masks

Cigars

Clothing and Beachwear

Coffee and Spices

Discount Stores

Gifts and Handicrafts

Jewelry

Lace and Linens

Leather and Equestrian Accessories

Malls

Markets

San Juan Nightlife

The Performing Arts

The Club and Music Scene

The Bar Scene

Hot Nights in Gay San Juan

Casinos

 Chapter 6: Near San Juan

El Yunque

Getting There

Visitor Information

Exploring El Yunque

Where to Stay

Luquillo Beach

Getting There

Hitting the Beach

Great Golf

Watersports

Sports and Adventure

Where to Stay

Where to Eat

Dorado

Getting There

The Beaches

Where to Eat

Where to Stay

Arecibo and Camuy

Getting There

Exploring the Area

Where to Eat

Karst Country

Getting There

Central Mountains

Where to Stay

The Southern Route to the Mountains

 Chapter 7: Ponce and the Southwest

Ponce

Essentials

Seeing the Sights

Beaches and Outdoor Activities

Shopping

Where to Eat

Where to Stay

The Southwest Coast

Guánica

La Parguera

Boqueron

San German

Where to Eat

The Southern Mountains

 Chapter 8: Mayagüez and the Northwest

Mayagüez

Essentials

Exploring the Area

Where to Eat

Where to Stay

Mayagüez Nightlife

Rincon

Surfing and Other Outdoor Pursuits

Where to Eat

Rincón Nightlife

Where to Stay

Aguadilla and the Northwest

Essentials

Watersports and Other Outdoor Pursuits

The Western Mountains

 Chapter 9: Eastern Puerto Rico

Fajardo

Getting There

Outdoor Activities

Where to Eat

Where to Stay

Ceiba and Naguabo

Getting Around

Where to Stay

Palmas del Mar

Getting There

Beaches and Outdoor Activities

Where to Eat

Where to Stay

The Southeast

Where to Stay and Eat

 Chapter 10: Vieques and Culebra

Vieques

Essentials

Nature Reserve

Beaches

Adventure Tours

Natural Attraction

Historic Site

Where to Eat

Shopping

Art Galleries

Vieques Nightlife

Where to Stay

Culebra

Essentials

Beaches

Adventure Tours

Where to Eat

Where to Stay

 Chapter 11: Planning Your Trip to Puerto Rico

Getting There

By Plane

Getting Around

By Plane

By Car

By Public Transportation

Tips on Where to Stay

Hotels and Resorts

Puerto Rican Guesthouses

Paradores

Villas and Vacation Homes

Rental Agencies

Tours

The Active Vacation Planner

Boating and Sailing

Camping

Deep-Sea Fishing

Golf

Hiking

Outdoor Adventure

Scuba Diving and Snorkeling

Surfing

Windsurfing

Food and Wine Trips

Guided Tours

Volunteer and Working Trips

Walking Tours
About the Author

John Marino has written extensively about Puerto Rico and the Caribbean for the Washington Post, The New York Times, Reuters, and other publications.  He lives in San Juan with his wife and son. 

How to Contact Us

In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more.  We're sure you'll find others.  Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions.  If you were disappointed with a recommendation, we'd love to know that, too.  Please write to:

Frommer's Puerto Rico, 11th Edition  
John Wiley & Sons, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774  
frommersfeedback@wiley.com

Advisory & Disclaimer

Travel information can change quickly and unexpectedly, and we strongly advise you to confirm important details locally before traveling, including information on visas, health and safety, traffic and transport, accommodations, shopping, and eating out.  We also encourage you to stay alert while traveling and to remain aware of your surroundings.  Avoid civil disturbances, and keep a close eye on cameras, purses, wallets, and other valuables. 

While we have endeavored to ensure that the information contained within this guide is accurate and up-to-date at the time of publication, we make no representations or warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of this work and specifically disclaim all warranties, including without limitation warranties of fitness for a particular purpose.  We accept no responsibility or liability for any inaccuracy or errors or omissions, or for any inconvenience, loss, damage, costs, or expenses of any nature whatsoever incurred or suffered by anyone as a result of any advice or information contained in this guide. 

The inclusion of a company, organization, or website in this guide as a service provider and/or potential source of further information does not mean that we endorse them or the information they provide.  Be aware that information provided through some websites may be unreliable and can change without notice.  Neither the publisher nor author shall be liable for any damages arising herefrom. 

Frommer's Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations

Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system.  In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly.  Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional).  Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see). 

In addition to the star-rating system, we also use eight feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists.  Throughout the book, look for:

  special finds—those places only insiders know about

  fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun

  kids—best bets for kids, and advice for the whole family

  special moments—those experiences that memories are made of

  overrated—places or experiences not worth your time or money

  insider tips—great ways to save time and money

  great values—where to get the best deals

  warning—traveler's advisories are usually in effect

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:

AE American Express   
DISC Discover   
V Visa  
DC Diners Club   
MC MasterCard

Travel Resources at Frommers.com

Frommer's travel resources don't end with this guide.  Frommer's website, www.frommers.com, has travel information on more than 4,000 destinations.  We update features regularly, giving you access to the most current trip-planning information and the best airfare, lodging, and car-rental bargains.  You can also listen to podcasts, connect with other Frommers.com members through our active-reader forums, share your travel photos, read blogs from guidebook editors and fellow travelers, and much more. 
Chapter 1: The Best of Puerto Rico

It's only the size of Connecticut, but Puerto Rico pulsates with more life than any other island in the Caribbean.  Whether it's the beat of bomba y plena, salsa, or reggaeton, there's a party going on here 24/7.The 3.8 million people who live here have perfected the art of having fun on their dazzling island, and visitors are free to join right in.  Puerto Ricans love their island and take pride in showing off its charms, which makes them among the world's great hosts.  Especially on weekends, there seems to be something going on just about everywhere—whether it's an art fair in Old San Juan, a pig roast in the rural mountain area outside town, or a volleyball competition or free concert on the beach in Isla Verde.  More so than on any other island, visitors are more likely to rub elbows with locals in Puerto Rico because so many of them are out enjoying themselves.  For island hotels and restaurants, local residents are an important and loyal part of their clientele. 

Puerto Rico is blessed with towering mountains, rainforests, white sandy beaches along Caribbean shores, and a vibrant culture forged from a mix of Caribbean, Hispanic, African, and U.S. influences.  Culture vultures will find a wealth of historic buildings and monuments, many of them dating back some 500 years to the Spanish conquistadors.  There are three world-class museums and a thriving gallery scene in San Juan.  The city is more intimate but just as exciting as Miami or Las Vegas, and the sophisticated fashion sense of the city and its inhabitants will genuinely impress visitors.  San Juan's nightlife, dining scene, casinos, and live-performance calendar are just as noteworthy.  Add some of the best golf and tennis in the West Indies, posh beach resorts, tranquil and offbeat inns and guesthouses, and you've got a formidable attraction. 

Good service, once notoriously lacking in Puerto Rico, has been improving for several years now.  You'll still find both not-so-benign neglect and outright gruff service, but the majority of hotel and restaurant employees are absolutely delightful these days. 

Puerto Rico is a crowded island, which makes for some traffic congestion, especially during the morning and afternoon rush hours, but visitors won't really notice except during holiday weekends.  There are country and coastal retreats where visitors can escape the masses, but you are never too far away from anybody in Puerto Rico. 

Tourists are generally safe, and crime in a tourist district is rare.  But homeless drug addicts and mentally ill beggars are a common sight in San Juan.  There are also unfortunate problems with littering and treatment of animals—but great strides in these areas are being made.  Most of Puerto Rico's crime and social problems remain largely invisible to tourists. 

A clue to the Puerto Rican soul is reflected in the national anthem, "La Borinqueña," which describes the island as a "flowering garden of exquisite magic . . .  the daughter of the sea and the sun."  Get to know this garden and the people who call it home. 

The most Unforgettable Puerto Rico Experiences

• Hiking & Bird-Watching at El Yunque (  787/888-1880): Thirty minutes by road east of San Juan in the Luquillo Mountains and protected by the U.S. Forest Service, El Yunque is Puerto Rico's greatest natural attraction.  It sprawls across 28,000 acres (1,133 hectares) of the rugged Sierra de Luquillo mountain range, covering the areas of Canóvanas, Las Piedras, Luquillo, Fajardo, Ceiba, Naguabo, and Río Grande.  There are some 240 species (26 endemic) of trees and plants found here and 50 bird species, including the rare Puerto Rican parrot (scientific name: Amazonavitatta), which is 1 of the 10 most endangered species of birds in the world.  Visitors and families can walk one of the dozens of trails that wind past waterfalls, while the island's colorful parrots fly overhead.  You can hear the song of Puerto Rico's coquí, a small tree frog, in many places.  See "El Yunque," in chapter 6. 

• Exploring Old San Juan: The city's restored historic district is one of the best living examples of Spanish colonial architecture in the Americas, and the area is chock-full of oceanfront fortresses, Gothic cathedrals, turn of the century residences, and smart Art Deco commercial buildings.  Several plazas feature gorgeous statues and streaming fountains, and there are gorgeous oceanfront and bayside promenades.  Yet, Old San Juan is very contemporary, with avant-garde cuisine, art, and performances emanating from its restaurants, galleries, and clubs.  It's a shopper's delight and attracts people from all over the world, which also adds to its cosmopolitan attraction. 

• Descending into the Río Camuy Caves (  787/898-3100): Some 2 1/2 hours west of San Juan, visitors board a tram to descend into this forest-filled sinkhole at the mouth of the Clara Cave.  They walk the footpaths of a 170-foot-high (52m) cave to a deeper sinkhole.  Once they're inside, a 45-minute tour helps everyone, including kids, learn to differentiate stalactites from stalagmites.  At the Pueblos sinkhole, a platform overlooks the Camuy River, passing through a network of cave tunnels.  See "Arecibo & Camuy," in chapter 6. 

• Take in the View at Las Cabezas de San Juan Nature Reserve (  787/722-5882): This 316-acre (128-hectare) nature reserve about 45 minutes from San Juan encompasses seven different ecological systems, including forestland, mangroves, lagoons, beaches, cliffs, and offshore coral reefs.  Tours led by park staff end with a climb to the top of the still-working 19th-century lighthouse for views over Puerto Rico's eastern coast and nearby Caribbean islands.  One of the finest phosphorescent bays in the world is located here, and local tour operators take you in a kayak or electronic boat to experience the animals' glow firsthand during nighttime tours.  See the box, "To the Lighthouse: Exploring Las Cabezas de San Juan Nature Reserve," in chapter 9. 

The best Beach Experiences

White sandy beaches and idyllic offshore islands are what put Puerto Rico on tourist maps in the first place.  The best beaches are labeled on the "Puerto Rico" map. 

• Best for Singles (Straight & Gay): Sandwiched between the Condado and Isla Verde along San Juan's coast, Ocean Park is a wide beach fronting a residential neighborhood of beautiful homes.  A favorite for swimming, paddle tennis, and kite surfing, the beach is also a favorite spot for young and beautiful sanjuaneros to congregate, especially on weekends.  Knowledgeable tourists also seek out Ocean Park, which has several guesthouses catering to young urban professionals from the East Coast, both gay and straight.  There definitely is a South Beach/Río vibe here, but it's decidedly more low-key and Caribbean.  It's a good spot for tourists and locals to mix.  There are a few beachfront bar/restaurants housed in the guesthouses, good for a snack or lunch or cold drink.  See "Diving, Fishing, Tennis & Other Outdoor Pursuits," in chapter 5. 

• Best Beach for Families: Luquillo Beach, 30 miles (48km) east of San Juan, has better sands and clearer waters than most in San Juan.  The vast sandy beach opens onto a crescent-shaped bay edged by a coconut grove.  Coral reefs protect the crystal-clear lagoon from the often rough Atlantic waters that can buffet the northern coast, making Luquillo a good place for young children to swim.  Much photographed because of its white sands, Luquillo also has tent sites as well as picnic areas with changing rooms, lockers, and showers.  See "Luquillo Beach," in chapter 6. 

• Best for Swimming: Pine Grove Beach, which stretches between the Ritz-Carlton and the Marriott Courtyard at the end of Isla Verde near the airport, is a crescent, white-sand beach, whose tranquil, blue waters are protected by an offshore reef from the often rough Atlantic current.  By the Ritz-Carlton and the Casa Cuba social club to the west, the water is completely sheltered, and a long sandbar means shallow water stretches a long way offshore.  Here the waves are well formed but never too big, which makes it a perfect spot to swim and learn to surf.  Outside San Juan, the best beaches for swimming are probably Guánica's Playa Santa and Caña Gorda beaches in southwest Puerto Rico.  The water is extremely warm and absolutely calm year round, and both spots boast wide, white-sand beaches with vistas of nothing but Caribbean Sea and hilly coastline. 

• Best for Scenery: In the southwestern corner of Puerto Rico, Boquerón Beach and its neighboring area brings to mind a tropical Cape Cod.  The beach town of Boquerón itself, filled with colorful scenery, stands along the coast just beside the beach running along a 3-mile (4.8km) bay, with palm-fringed white sand curving away on both sides.  The water is always tranquil, making it perfect for families and swimming.  There's fine snorkeling, sailing, and fishing as well.  The beach here is also one of the Puerto Rico's state-run public beaches, with lifeguards, lockers, bathrooms, showers, a cafeteria and sundries shop, and picnic tables and barbecue pits.  The village is a ramshackle collection of open-air establishments along the coast selling seafood and drinks.  Fresh oysters are shucked on the spot and doused with Tabasco.  Try the fried fritters filled with freshly caught fish or Caribbean lobster.  There are plenty of interesting photo ops at this beach and its adjacent town.  See "The Southwest Coast," in chapter 7. 

• Best for Surfing: The winter surf along Puerto Rico's northwest coast is the best in the region.  Generally regarded as one of the best surf spots across the globe, it draws surfers from around the world.  Rincón is the center of the island surf scene, but it extends to neighboring Isabela and Aguadilla.  Dubbed the "Caribbean Pipeline," winter waves here can approach 20 feet (6.1m) in height, equaling the force of the surf on Oahu's north shore.  Rincón became a renowned surfing destination when it hosted the 1968 world surfing championships.  Famed surfing beaches in town include Puntas, Domes, Tres Palmas, and Steps.  In Aguadilla, surfers head to Gas Chambers, Crash Boat, or Wilderness; in Isabela, preferred spots include Jobos and Middles.  The best time to surf is from November through April, but summer storms can also kick up the surf.  In the summer season, however, when the waves diminish, these northwest beaches double as perfect spots for windsurfing and snorkeling, with calm waters filled with coral reefs and marine life.  See "Rincón," in chapter 8. 

• Best for Windsurfing: Puerto Rico is filled with places for windsurfing and, increasingly, kite surfing.  San Juan itself is a windsurfer's haven, and you'll see them off the coast from Pine Grove beach near the airport all the way west to where Ocean Park runs into Condado at Parquedel Indio.  Punta Las Marías, between Ocean Park and Isla Verde, is a center of activity.  The Condado Lagoon, just behind the oceanfront strip of hotels, is also popular for windsurfing. ( It's increasingly popular with kayakers too.)  The northwest, from Rincón to Isabela, is another center for windsurfing, with strong winds throughout the year. 

• Best Beaches for Being Alone: Puerto Rico is filled with isolated sandy coves and virgin white beaches accessible only by dirt roads that only the locals seem to know about.  The best, all guaranteed to delight the escapist in you, stretch between Cabo Rojo (the southwesterly tip of Puerto Rico) all the way east to Ponce.  Guánica has several, including Las Paldas and La Jungla, which are empty except during holiday weekends.  In Fajardo, a 2-mile (3.2km) hike from the Seven Seas Public Beach will reward you with the breathtaking El Convento Beach, along the miles-long undeveloped coastline stretching between Fajardo and Luquillo.  Besides the governor's official beach house, a rustic wooden cottage, there is nothing but white-sand beach and pristine aquamarine waters.  The area is a nesting site for endangered sea turtles, and there is excellent snorkeling just offshore, where the water is rife with unspoiled coral reefs and marine life.  Environmentalists hope to turn the area into a nature reserve, but two hotel projects are also planned for the area.  The government has indicated it wants to develop small-scale, low-impact tourism for the area.  Vieques and Culebra, the Spanish Virgin Islands, also have their fair share of deserted, out-of-the-way beaches.  Because access to many of these is limited, due to poor roads, it is necessary to bring supplies, including fresh drinking water.  See the box, "Puerto Rico's Secret Beaches," in chapter 7. 

• Best for Snorkeling: On the main island, the best spot for snorkeling is probably Fajardo's El ConventoBeach (mentioned above).  The southwest, from Guánica through Boquerón, also has excellent snorkeling with plenty of reefs and marine life right offshore.  In the summer, once the big surf quiets down, several beaches in the northwest, from Rincón to Isabela, also boast good snorkeling.  Steps is one of the best spots.  The islands of Vieques and Culebra also have great snorkeling.  On Vieques, try Media Luna, Navio, Red, and Blue beaches on the eastern side, and in the west, Green Beach.  Culebra's most popular beach, Flamenco, is picture perfect and has very good snorkeling, but a 20-minute hike from its parking leads to the Playa Tamarindo and Playa Carlos Rosario, beaches enveloped by a barrier reef.  A quarter-mile (.4km) to the south is a place called "The Wall," which has 40-foot (12m) drop-offs, rainbow-hued fish, and other delights. 

The best Snorkeling & Diving

With the continental shelf surrounding it on three sides, Puerto Rico has an abundance of coral reefs, caves, sea walls, and trenches for divers of all experience levels to explore.  See "The Active Vacation Planner," in chapter 10. 

• Metropolitan San Juan: This easy beach dive off the Condado district in San Juan is not as spectacular as other dives mentioned here, but it's certainly more convenient.  Lava reefs sculptured with caverns, tunnels, and overhangs provide hiding areas for schools of snapper, grunts, and copper sweepers.  In the active breeding grounds of the inner and outer reefs, divers of all levels can mingle with an impressive array of small tropical fish—French angels, jacks, bluehead wrasse, butterfly fish, sergeant majors, and more—along with sea horses, arrow crabs, coral shrimp, octopuses, batfish, and flying gurnards.  Visibility is about 10 to 20 feet (3–6m).  The Condado reef is also ideal for resort courses, certification courses, and night dives.  See "Diving, Fishing, Tennis & Other Outdoor Pursuits," in chapter 5. 

• Mona Island: Mona Island, 40 miles (64km) west of the city of Mayagüez in western Puerto Rico, is the Caribbean version of the Galápagos Islands.  Renowned for its pirate tales, cave-pocked cliffs, 3-foot-long (.9m) iguanas, and other natural wonders, its waters are among the cleanest in Puerto Rico, with horizontal visibility at times exceeding 200 feet (61m).  More than 270 species of fish have been found in Mona waters, including more than 60 reef-dwelling species.  Larger marine animals, such as sea turtles, whales, dolphins, and marlins, visit the region during migrations.  Various types of coral reefs, underwater caverns, drop-offs, and deep vertical walls ring the island.  The most accessible reef dives are along the southern and western shores.  There are a number of outfits operating trips from the west coast of Puerto Rico.  The boat ride now takes about 3 hours through the often rough Mona Passage.  See the box, "Mona Island: The Galápagos of Puerto Rico," in chapter 8. 

• Southern Puerto Rico: The continental shelf drops off precipitously several miles off the southern coast, producing a dramatic wall 20 miles (32km) long and teeming with marine life.  Compared favorably to the wall in the Cayman Islands, this Puerto Rican version has become the Caribbean's newest world-class dive destination.  Paralleling the coast from the seaside village of La Parguera to the city of Ponce, the wall descends in slopes and sheer drops from 60 to 120 feet (18–37m) before disappearing into 1,500 feet (457m) of sea.  Scored with valleys and deep trenches, it is cloaked in immense gardens of staghorn and elkhorn coral, deep-water gorgonians, and other exquisite coral formations.  Visibility can exceed 100 feet (30m).  There are more than 50 dive sites around Parguera alone.  See "The Southwest Coast," in chapter 7. 

• Fajardo: This coastal town in eastern Puerto Rico offers divers the opportunity to explore reefs, caverns, miniwalls, and channels near a string of palm-tufted islets.  The reefs are decked in an array of corals ranging from delicate gorgonians to immense coral heads.  Visibility usually exceeds 50 feet (15m).  Divers can hand-feed many of the reef fish that inhabit the corals.  Sand channels and a unique double-barrier reef surround Palomino Island, where bandtailed puffers and parrotfish harems are frequently sighted.  Cayo Diablo, farther to the east, provides a treasure box of corals and marine animals, from green moray eels and barracudas to octopuses and occasional manatees.  See "Fajardo," in chapter 9. 

• Humacao Region: South of Fajardo are some 24 dive sites in a 5-mile (8km) radius off the shore.  Overhangs, caves, and tunnels perch in 60 feet (18m) of water along mile-long (1.6km) Basslet Reef, where dolphins visit in spring.  The Cracks, a jigsaw of caves, alleyways, and boulders, hosts an abundance of goby-cleaning stations and a number of lobsters.  With visibility often exceeding 100 feet (30m), the Reserve offers a clear look at corals.  At the Drift, divers float along with nurse sharks and angelfish into a valley of swim-throughs and ledges.  For the experienced diver, Red Hog is the newest site in the area, with a panoramic wall that drops from 80 to 1,160 feet (24–354m).  See "Palmas del Mar" in chapter 9. 

Puerto Rico offers top-notch snorkeling even though freshwater run-offs from tropical outbursts feeding into the sea can momentarily cloud the ocean's waters.  In most places, when conditions are right, visibility extends from 50 to 75 feet (15–23m). 

One of the best ways to experience this wonderful sport, even if you are staying in San Juan, is to take one of the day trips on one of the several luxury catamarans plying the waters off the coast of Fajardo, which make for some of the finest snorkeling in the Caribbean.  They usually anchor on the beach of a small cay for lunch and some sunbathing and swimming.  Transportation from San Juan area hotels is often provided.  It's worth the trip even if you don't want to snorkel.  There are a number of reputable operators (see "Watersports," in chapter 9). 

• Mona Island: This remote island off the west coast of Puerto Rico (see "The Best Scuba Diving," above) also offers the best snorkeling possibilities.  The reefs here, the most pristine in Puerto Rico, are home to a wide variety of rainbow-hued fish, turtles, octopuses, moray eels, rays, puffers, and clownfish: the single largest concentration of reef fish life in Puerto Rico.  However, you must bring your snorkeling equipment to the island, as there are no rentals available once you are here.  See the box, "Mona Island: The Galápagos of Puerto Rico," in chapter 8. 

• Caja de Muertos: The best snorkeling off the coast of Ponce is on the uninhabited coast island of Caja de Muertos (Coffin Island).  This island got its name from an 18th-century French writer who noted that the island's shape resembled a cadaver in a coffin.  Over the years there have been fanciful legends about the island, including tales of necrophilia, star-crossed lovers, and, of course, piracy.  Several outfits will take you to this remote spot for a full day's outing, with plenty of snorkeling.  See "Ponce," in chapter 7. 

• La Parguera: The reefs surrounding the offshore cays just off La Paguera in southwest Puerto Rico are another fine spot for snorkeling.  Several boat operators right in town will either rent you a boat with a guide or drop you off on one of the islands and return at a prearranged timed. 

• Fajardo: On the eastern coast, the clear waters along the beachfront are the best on mainland Puerto Rico for snorkeling.  The best beaches here for snorkeling are in walking distance from the Seven Seas public beach: Playa Escondido and Playa Convento.  The snorkeling at Las Cabezas de San Juan nature refuge is also spectacular.  See "The Best Beaches," earlier in this chapter, and "Fajardo," in chapter 9. 

• Vieques& Culebra: For a quick preview of the underwater possibilities, refer to "The Best Beaches," earlier in this chapter.  For more information, see chapter 10. 

The best Golf Courses

• Río Mar Beach Resort & Spa: A Wyndham Grand Resort (Río Grande;   787/888-6000), two world-class golf courses are located here in the shadow of El Yunque rainforest along a dazzling stretch of coast.  The entire 6,782 yards (6,201m) of Tom and George Fazio's Ocean Course has seaside panoramas and breezes, and fat iguanas scampering through the lush grounds.  The other course, a 6,945-yard (6,351m) design by golf pro Greg Norman, follows the flow of the Mameyes River through mountain and coastal vistas.  The resort is a 30-minute drive from San Juan on the northeast coast.  Wind is often a challenge here. 

• Dorado Beach Resort & Club (Dorado;   787/796-8961 or 787/626-1006): With 72 holes, Dorado has the highest concentration of golf on the island.  The legendary Dorado Beach and Cerromar hotels, run by Hyatt, are now gone, but the four courses and other facilities—spectacular tennis courts, pools, and beaches—live on.  There are two luxury hotels on the site now under development.  Of the courses, Dorado East is the favorite.  Designed by Robert Trent Jones, Sr.,  it was the site of the Senior PGA Tournament of Champions throughout the 1990s.  True tennis buffs head here, too.  The Dorado courts are the best on the island. 

• El Conquistador Resort & Golden Door Spa (Fajardo;   787/863-1000): This sprawling resort on Puerto Rico's northeast corner is one of the island's finest tennis retreats, with seven Har-Tru courts and a pro on hand to offer guidance and advice.  If you don't have a partner, the hotel will find one for you.  There are also outstanding golf facilities as well. 

• Palmas del Mar Country Club (Humacao;   787/285-2221): Lying on the east coast on the grounds of a former coconut plantation, the Palmas del Mar resort boasts the second-leading course in Puerto Rico—a par-72, 6,803-yard (6,221m) layout designed by Gary Player.  Some crack golfers consider holes 11 through 15 the toughest five successive holes in the Caribbean.  There's also an 18-hole championship-caliber course designed by Rees Jones.  The Palmas del Mar Tennis Club meanwhile boasts the largest facilities in the Caribbean, and it has recently begun to host large-prize pro tournaments. 

• Trump International Golf Club (Río Grande;   787/657-2000): Located on 1,200 acres (486 hectares) of glistening waterfront, there are two recently improved 18-hole golf courses designed by Tom Kite that allow you to play in the mountains, along the ocean, among the palms, and in between the lakes.  Its bunkers are carved from white silica sand.  Real estate magnate Donald Trump, in conjunction with local developer Empresas Díaz, Inc., is in the initial stages of developing some 500 luxury residences here. 

The best Day Hikes

Take a hike.  Puerto Rico's mountainous interior offers ample opportunity for hiking and climbing, with many trails presenting spectacular panoramas at the least-expected moments.  There are also awesome beachfront and coastal trails around the island.  See "The Active Vacation Planner," in chapter 11, for detailed information. 

• El Yunque (  787/888-1880 for information): Containing the only rainforest on U.S. soil, the El Yunque National Forest east of San Juan offers a number of walking and hiking trails.  The rugged El Toro trail passes through four different forest systems en route to the 3,523-foot (1,074m) Pico El Toro, the highest peak in the forest.  The El Yunque trail leads to three of the recreation area's most panoramic lookouts, and the Big Tree Trail is an easy walk to gorgeous, refreshing La Mina Falls, the perfect picnic stop.  Just off the main road is La Coca Falls, a sheet of water cascading down mossy cliffs.  See "El Yunque," in chapter 6. 

• Guánica State Forest (  787/724-3724 for information): At the opposite extreme of El Yunque's lush and wet rainforest, Guánica State Forest's climate is dry and arid, the Arizona-like landscape riddled with cacti.  The area, cut off from the Cordillera Central mountain range, gets little rainfall.  Yet it's home to some 50% of all the island's terrestrial bird species, including the rare Puerto Rican nightjar, once thought to be extinct.  The forest has 36 miles (58km) of trails winding through four forest types: Tabonuco Forest, Palo Colorado Forest, Sierra Palm Forest, and Dwarf Forest, which create a magnificent tangle of vegetation, ranging from tall-treed-canopy, to low-lying upland swamp trees, to palms, to a sweep of dwarf evergreens that look like bonsais. 

• Mona Island: Off the western coast of Puerto Rico, this fascinating island, noted for its scuba-diving sites, provides hiking opportunities found nowhere else in the Caribbean.  Called the "Galápagos of Puerto Rico" because of its unique wildlife, Mona is home to giant iguanas and three species of endangered sea turtles.  Some 20 endangered animals also have been spotted here.  Eco-tourists like to hike among Mona's mangrove forests, cliffs, and complex honeycomb of caves, ever on the alert for the diversity of both plant and animal life.  There are 417 plant and tree species, some of which are unique and 78 of which are rare or endangered.  More than 100 bird species (2 unique) have been documented.  Hikers can camp at Mona for a modest fee, but they will also have to hire transportation to and from the island.  See the box, "Mona Island: The Galápagos of Puerto Rico," in chapter 8. 

The best Family Experiences

Puerto Rico has a bounty of attractions, natural wonders, and resorts that welcome families who choose to play together.  Here are some of the best. 

• Stay at a Kid-Friendly Resort: Whether you are in San Juan, the East, or the West, there are great places to stay for kids.  Caribe Hilton (San Juan;   877/GO-HILTON [464-4586], or 787/721-0303) has a Kidz Paradise center with games, toys, beach items, and sports stuff for children free of charge available 9am to 5pm through a lending desk.  There's a full recreational program with indoor and outdoor activities and a free welcome gift for children 12 and under.  Kids will keep busy with a video arcade, bicycle rentals, gym, tennis courts, and watersports equipment rentals.  The hotel's family policy grants free stays to children 17 and under when staying in their parents' room, one free babysitting service, free meals to children under 5, and free breakfast and discounts on other meals for children 5 to 12.  The whole family will love the Marriott Courtyard Aguadilla (Aguadilla;   787/658-8000) with its pool, aquatics playground, and spacious guest rooms.  It's near some of the prettiest beaches on the island, and right around attractions such as the Camuy Caves, Arecibo Observatory, local water park, and ice skating rink.  Beautiful beaches ring the coast here from Isabela to the east and Rincón to the west.  El Conquistador Resort & Golden Door Spa (Las Croabas;   800/468-5228 or 787/863-1000), located 31 miles (50km) east of San Juan, offers Camp Coquí on Palomino Island for kids.  The hotel's free water taxi takes children to the island for a half- or full day of watersports and nature hikes.  The Coquí Waterpark also adds to the family appeal.  Boasting several pools (including its main 8,500-sq.-ft. ( 790 sq.-meter) main pool, several slides, a rope bridge, and a winding river attraction), this resort has some of the best facilities and restaurants in eastern Puerto Rico and all of the Caribbean. 

• Having Adventures in Old San Juan: Whether you are in San Juan, the East or the West, there are great places to stay for kids.  Caribe Hilton (San Juan;   877/GO-Old San Juan) Kids Tour.  Your kids will love Old San Juan, as long as you take them to the places they will want to go.  For toddlers and the under 10-set, the Museo del Niño (Children's Museum) offers lots of fun, from the rooftop nature exhibits to the padded play area with dress-up costumes.  Exploring the Old City's two fortresses are also fascinating experiences for teens and younger children, and the grounds of El Morro is one of the most perfect spots to fly kites you are likely to find.  A replica of The Bounty, parked year-round at Old San Juan Bay, is another great adventure.  The Ben & Jerry's shop is an obligatory stop, but there are several other ice cream and frozen yogurt shops that have popped up across the city. 

• Hitting the North Coast's Attractions: A series of attractions along the north coast to the west of San Juan make for great family outings.  An hour west of San Juan, the Arecibo Observatory is the world's largest radar/radio-telescope, used to search for signs of intelligent life as well as earth-threatening asteroids.  With its huge dish and suspended cable bridges springing from the lush, mountainous terrain, the structure itself is just as fascinating as the work inside, and the visitor's center and other facilities brings the importance of this facility to the fore.  Further west is the Río Camuy Cave Park, a world of subterranean marvel, with surging underground rivers and intricate cavern networks.  But you'll also want to make a stop in Arecibo en route, your best spot for a fine meal at either Pichholo or Salitre.  The kids will also enjoy the Arecibo Lighthouse & Historic Park (Hwy.  655, El Muelle, Barrio Islote, Arecibo; www.arecibolighthouse.com   787/880-7540).  The park is housed in a 114-year-old lighthouse and offers visitors replicas of slave quarters, a pirate ship, cave, and other exhibits. 

The most Romantic Moments

The pungent tropical breeze, gorgeous beaches and gardens, and elegant hotels, restaurants, and nightclubs make Puerto Rico a perfect spot for romance. 

• Getting a Taste of Old San Juan Romance: Stay at Hotel El Convento, where newlyweds can sleep in and spend their afternoons wandering the Old City or lolling around the rooftop splash pool, with its sweeping vistas of San Juan Bay and the bluff overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.  There are bougainvillea and tropical flowers hanging from seemingly every window and terrace, as well as colorful, restored Spanish colonial architecture everywhere you turn.  You'll feel spoiled by your room's marble bathroom and elegant bed. 

• Escaping at an Idyllic Western Estate: With private plunge pools and oceanfront terraces, the Horned Dorset Primavera in Rincón is the most romantic hotel on the island, and one of the most in the Caribbean.  A small, tranquil estate on the Mona Passage in western Puerto Rico, this pocket of posh guarantees privacy.  Luxurious accommodations, beautiful natural surroundings and amenities, and wonderful gourmet food and libations create an atmosphere where all whims are fulfilled.  The west coast beach town will also seduce couples, who can ride horses on the beach at sunset or watch whales breach offshore, as well as undertake any other quintessential Caribbean experience that may pop into mind. 

• Relaxing in Tropical Paradise: A trip to Vieques is a trip back in time, and couples can lose themselves in tropical splendor at the Inn on the Blue Horizon, a property on an oceanfront bluff overlooking the idyllic south coast of Vieques and the neighboring village of Esperanza.  Relax with the sea breeze in the sumptuous furnishings of the main building's open-air atrium, or watch the sunset at the circular Blue Moon Bar, which overlooks the striking coastline.  The pool sprawls across the horizon with the beach and ocean beyond it, but the private rooms feel like home (somebody's extremely well-appointed home), with beautiful cotton linens, antique furniture, and art.  You'll spend your days in your jeep, exploring secluded beaches or the hilly, forested interior of the island, and your nights tasting from the surprising culinary delights and interesting bars of Vieques. 

• Getting a Secluded Massage: Nothing feels closer to the Garden of Eden than a couples massage at the Reméde Spa at the gorgeous St. Regis Bahía Beach.  This secluded world, bordered by a meditation lagoon and fire garden, is encompassed by separate massage villas, where beauty potions are crafted from local elements and treatments range from caressing mud baths to full-body massages. 

• Taking a South Coast Lover's Retreat: The south coast city of Ponce offers the perfect backdrop to the story book romance of your life.  So take that horse-drawn carriage ride around Plaza Las Delicias, and maybe steal a kiss while cooling off with some tropical ice cream cones on one of its shady park benches.  Stroll down Paseo Arias, the historic sector's "lover's lane," and the splendid bedrooms and baronial, wood-carved dining room in the Serralles rum dynasty's mansion on a hill overlooking the city.  Day trips to great beaches and natural areas are another reason you and your lover can hang your hat in Ponce. 

The best Ways To See Puerto Rico Like A Local

• Hanging Out in Santurce: San Juan's "downtown," the place to shop and bop, had its heyday in the 1950s but has been on a steady rise in the last several years.  The area is home to important cultural institutions, like the Luis A. Ferré Performing Arts Center and the Puerto Rico Art Museum, and a growing number of new restaurants, cafes, and shops has brought new energy.  Yet the place is still largely off limits to most visitors.  So after visiting the museum, have an economic and tasty lunch at one of the fondas along Avenida Ponce de León and its side streets.  Another option is to head to Plaza del Mercado, with a great tropical fruit and other merchandise market, and a bunch of local restaurants and bars surrounding it.  You'll meet more locals than visitors, and on Thursday and Friday nights, join the party scene. 

• Joining in a Local Festival: Regardless of when you are visiting Puerto Rico, chances are there is a Fiestas Patronales taking place in 1 of the island's 78 towns, which rage on for several nights.  Each town's government throws an annual weeklong celebration of food, music, fun, and games, and town halls have been won and lost over the quality of the annual parties.  Long ripped from their religious origins, the annual festivals may be named after their town's patron saint, but the main features are free live-music performances by top salsa and local performers, rides and games for the kids, and food and drink kiosks for the entire family.  There are other festivals, like the annual Flower Festival in Aibonito and the annual Coffee Festival in Maricao.  A requisite at all big festivals is an area for island artisans, with the finest in Puerto Rico traveling across the island to show their wares. 

• Taking a Sunday Drive: It doesn't matter where you go in Puerto Rico, everywhere people are just taking drives for fun on Sunday afternoons, from the oceanside boulevard of Old San Juan to the bayside drive in the western city of Mayaguez.  It could be along the coastal Pinones road, lined by wooden shacks selling fresh coconut milk, fried codfish fritters, and fish kebabs, to the El Yunque rainforest, or south from San Juan to the mountain lechoneras of Cayey serving roast pork, blood sausage, and other hearty jibaro fare, or the wooden seafood restaurants fronting the water in the south coast town of Santa Isabel.  There are endless other possibilities, all of which will have as many local drivers out for a Sunday afternoon drive, stopping here and there, for this or that.  If you have the right attitude, you will have a glorious afternoon.  Just don't expect to get anywhere too fast.  There is no reason at all that you should want to. 

• Getting Friendly with Locals: Viernes Social (Social Fridays) is an island-wide tradition of schmoozing, drinking, dancing, and eating after work on Fridays that is faithfully adhered to by workers across the social strata and from Mayaguez to Humacao, and San Juan to Ponce.  Regardless of where you are, a neighborhood gas station or an open air comida criolla cafe, chances are it will have turned into a lively mix of laughter and story telling, dancing and flirting if it is anytime after 4pm on Friday afternoons.  Make sure you go out for sundown cocktails on Fridays if you want to mix it up with the locals, which is always a good idea in Puerto Rico. 

The best Places To Get Away From It All

• Gallery Inn at Galería San Juan (San Juan;   787/722-1808): This legendary bohemian property overlooks an oceanfront bluff adjacent to the centuries-old San Cristobal.  An art studio and gallery, this charming colonial inn has sculpture gardens and flowery courtyards and plush accommodations, some of which has the space and views to stay in for days, without ever feeling hemmed in. 

• Vieques & Culebra: Puerto Rico's offshore islands—still relatively undiscovered by the modern world—remain the best place to get away from it all, with neither traffic lights nor fast food restaurants.  Vieques, which attracts visitors with its gorgeous stretches of sand with picnic facilities and shade trees, is an ideal retreat for snorkelers and tranquility seekers.  The beaches are nearly always deserted, even though they are among the Caribbean's loveliest—rent a jeep because you will have to travel though wilderness to get to many of them, with three-quarters of the island protected by the Fish & Wildlife Service.  Smaller and even less developed Culebra has a wildlife refuge, coral reefs, and Playa Flamenco, another of the Caribbean's finest beaches.  And is it ever sleepy here!  Culebra, without a doubt, is your best choice of location if what you really want is to do nothing more complicated than luxuriate on the beach and swim or snorkel.  See chapter 10. 

• The Guánica Dry Forest: This dry forest and the surrounding coastal region is an area of rare and heart-stopping beauty, with several gorgeous beaches and beautiful forested trails, where rare plant-life and birds are a common site.  There are sleepy inns and hotels, from the rather plush Copamarina Beach Resort (Caña Gorda;   787/821-0505) to the rambling group of beach bungalows and upscale villas scattered across a coastal hillside that comprises Mary Lee's By the Sea (www.maryleesbythesea.com;   787/821-3600).  Sleepy Guánica, the landing site of the Americans during the 1898 invasion which wrested control of the island from Spain, offers historic charm as well.  Days are long and hot in the southwestern region, but nights are just as long and quiet. 

• Casa Isleña Inn (Rincón;   787/823-1525): Located on a beautiful beach in the Puntas sector of this west-coast surf capital, this casually elegant inn is a great value of surprising quality.  A contemporary Ibero-Caribbean theme runs throughout its rooftop, beachfront, and garden terraces, and inspires its colorfully painted architecture and the furnishing of its spacious, comfortable guest rooms.  The only drawback is you might find it difficult to ever leave, as it has one of the best pools in town in front of some of the nicest beach.  But with a new tapas bar now open, you might not have to.  In the off-season in early summer, the place is blissfully empty save a handful of other guests. 

The best Historic Sites

• The Historic District of Old San Juan: There's nothing like it in the Caribbean.  Partially enclosed by old walls dating from the 17th century, Old San Juan was designated a U.S. National Historic Zone in 1950.  Some 400 massively restored buildings fill this district, which is chockablock with tree-shaded squares, monuments, and open-air cafes as well as shops, restaurants, and bars.  If you're interested in history, there is no better stroll in the Caribbean.  It continues to be a vibrant cultural center and enclave of the arts and entertainment, as well as one of the region's culinary capitals.  See "Seeing the Sights," in chapter 5. 

• Castillo de San Felipe del Morro (Old San Juan): In Old San Juan and nicknamed El Morro, this fort was originally built in 1540.  It guards the bay from a rocky promontory on the northwestern tip of the old city.  Rich in history and legend, the site covers enough territory to accommodate a 9-hole golf course. 

• The Historic District of Ponce: Second only to Old San Juan in terms of historical significance, the central district of Ponce is a blend of Ponce Creole and Art Deco building styles, dating mainly from the 1890s to the 1930s.  One street, Calle Isabel, offers an array of Ponceño architectural styles, which often incorporate neoclassical details.  The city underwent a massive restoration preceding the celebration of its 300th anniversary in 1996.  See "Ponce," in chapter 8. 

• Museo de Arte de Ponce (Ponce): This museum has the finest collection of European and Latin American art in the Caribbean.  It reopened in late 2010 following a three-year renovation that expanded exhibition space and overhauled the public areas and other facilities.  The architecture, as well as the collection, now heralds both the classical and the modern.  The modern additions flow into the original museum structure, which has been called the "Parthenon of the Caribbean."  The permanent collection is now arranged by theme, rather than by date and school, which makes a visit to the museum livelier than the more academic arrangement typical in other museums. 

• The City of San Germán: Founded in 1512, this small town in the southwestern corner of Puerto Rico is Puerto Rico's second-oldest city.  Thanks to a breadth of architectural styles, San Germán is also the second Puerto Rican city (after San Juan) to be included in the National Register of Historic Places.  Buildings, monuments, and plazas fill a 36-acre (15-hectare) historic zone.  Today's residents descend from the smugglers, poets, priests, and politicians who once lived here in "the city of hills," so-called because of the mountainous location.  See "San Germán," in chapter 7. 

• Iglesia Porta Coeli (San Germán): The main attraction of this ancient town is the oldest church in the New World.  It was originally built by Dominican friars in 1606.  The church resembles a working chapel, although mass is held here only three times a year.  Along the sides of the church are treasures gathered from all over the world.  See "San Germán," in chapter 7. 

• Puerto Rico Museum of Art (San Juan): This museum features interesting traveling shows and a growing permanent collection emphasizing local artists in impressive surroundings—a restored 1920s classic in Santurce.  There are beautiful botanical gardens outside, and a theater exhibits cutting-edge films and performances of all types.  There are day workshops, open to the public, and children's activities held here nearly every weekend; and the museum is home to one of the island's top few restaurants, Pikayo, which takes Puerto Rican cuisine to artful new heights. 

The best Food & Drink Experiences

• Chowing Down on Puerto Rican Road Food: No other place offers as many roadside treats as Puerto Rico.  There's something good to eat around virtually every turn in the road.  Some favorites include the barbecued chicken stands along Route 116 in Guánica, the pizzerias lining the northwest coast from Arecibo to Mayagüez, and the simple seafood restaurants fronting the quaint and picturesque harbor of Naguabo on the east coast.  And you can't really forget Puerta de Tierra's oceanfront El Hamburger, or the taco joints along the old Caguas highway.  Also try Piñones, east of Isla Verde (which has probably the largest concentration of frituras, fried beach snacks, near San Juan).  Farther east, the cluster of food stands near the Luquillo public beach and Highway 3 are legendary for their seafood, as well as barbecued chicken.  Make sure to try an arepa, a light flour pastry often filled with ceviche but also made with coconut flavor and eaten plain with coffee for breakfast.  For succulent roast pork, chicken, and turkey, head to a string of open-air restaurants specializing in criolla barbecue in the mountain town of Guavate, about a half-hour south of San Juan. 

• Dining at an Avant-Garde Restaurant: Puerto Rico's capital has long been a melting pot of some quality international fair as well as of the island's surprisingly satisfying and flavorful comida criolla.  Recently, the city's dining scene has gotten significantly better, with a growing crop of celebrity chefs and up-and-coming surprise talent putting in some awesome performances in city kitchens.  Aguaviva is an ultramodern, sleekly tropical restaurant as cutting edge as its "seaside Latino cuisine," with a buzzing blue interior.  Parrot Club (San Juan;   787/725-7370) sets the standard in style and service.  Budatai (Condado;   787/725-6919) serves Puerto Rico's best Asian-Latino cuisine in a luxurious and stylish dining room and outdoor terrace.  Pikayo (at the Condado Plaza Hotel & Casino, Condado;   787/721-6194) has a menu as artful as its setting, a fusion of Caribbean, European, and Californian influences.  At Perla (Condado;   787/721-7500) diners eat within a shimmering, seashell-shaped room on the beach, and the food lives up to the awesome setting. 

• Enjoying International Cuisine: You may be in the Caribbean, but you can get Spanish, Italian, Chinese, and Sushi cuisine in San Juan that rivals your favorite spots back home.  Bistro de Paris (Santurce;   787/998-8929) is a Parisian-style bistro that serves up the best French cuisine and serves as the stomping grounds of the island's moneyed class.  There are plenty of really great tapas restaurants in the city, but none is in as beautiful a setting as El Picoteo (at El Convento Hotel Old San Juan;   787/723-9202).  Classic Spanish tapas, from spicy potatoes to garbanzo salad to octopus ceviche, are served amid the blooming bougainvillea.  Enjoy the sangria while you overlook either the hotel's interior courtyard or the parade of partygoers along Calle Cristo. 

• Sipping a Piña Colada: After a day on the beach, make sure you spend at least one afternoon throwing back a piña colada or two.  A refreshingly sweet piña colada is one of the finest libations you will likely try anywhere, especially after lots of fun and sun on the beach. 

The best Offbeat Experiences

• Diving off Mona Island (Mayagüez): Surrounded by some of the most beautiful coral reefs in the Caribbean, Mona Island has the most pristine, extensive, and well-developed reefs in Puerto Rican waters.  In fact, they have been nominated as a U.S. National Marine Sanctuary.  The tropical marine ecosystem around Mona includes patch reefs, black coral, spore and groove systems, underwater caverns, deepwater sponges, fringing reefs, and algal reefs.  The lush environment attracts octopi, lobster, queen conch, rays, barracuda, snapper, jack, grunt, angelfish, trunkfish, filefish, butterfly fish, dolphin, parrotfish, tuna, flying fish, and more.  The crystal waters afford exceptional horizontal vision from 150 to 200 feet (46–61m), as well as good views down to the shipwrecks that mark the site—including some Spanish galleons.  Five species of whales visit the island's offshore waters.  See the box, "Mona Island: The Galápagos of Puerto Rico," in chapter 8. 

• Spending the Evening in Glowing Waters: Puerto Rico has the incredible blessing of possessing three rare bioluminescent bays, when there are just handfuls of such spots around the world.  At any time, except when there's a full moon, you can kayak through glowing waters lit by dinoflagellates called pyrodiniums (whirling fire).  These creatures light up the waters like fireflies, and swimming among them is one of the most unusual things to do anywhere—truly a magical, almost psychedelic experience.  It's estimated that a gallon of bay water might contain about three-quarters of a million of these little glowing creatures.  While Vieques is the best site, the bay in Fajardo is also adjacent to a protected area, and outfitters run kayak trips from the harbor at the Las Croabas fishing village. 

• Channeling Your Inner Boricua: Politics rivals looking good as the national sport here, so going to a campaign rally during election season, which will include live music and much drinking, can be a truly offbeat and mind-blowing experience.  However there is no better way to experience the passion and pride of the Puerto Rican people up close and personal than watching a boxing match or beauty pageant with a local favorite in contention at a local bar or restaurant.  And Puerto Rico is as good at looking good as it is in boxing.  Five island beauties have won the Miss Universe title, and the island has produced a long line of boxing champions, including current contender Miguel Cotto, and Felix "Tito" Trinidad before him.  However, there's a fiesta here regardless of who wins.  Whether in victory or defeat, the sound of music and laughter take precedence. 

• Participating in a Turtle Watch: This is just one of the tremendous nature experiences you can have in Puerto Rico, whether you go with a small community group or at the plush St. Regis Bahia Beach.  There are also opportunities for bird watchers to participate in surveys, as well as fantastic forest hikes in the lush hilly interior and the drier coast to get off the beaten path. 
Chapter 2: Puerto Rico In Depth

Puerto Ricans are intensely proud of their culture, a rich brew of Taíno Indian, Spanish, African, and American influences, and most relish showing off the best of it.  Yet visitors will be just as struck at the worldliness of most Puerto Ricans as they are by the beat of salsa music, the symphony of flavor in a seafood stuffed mofongo, or the long line of master island painters, print makers, and song writers.  That too results from its historic forging from several distinct world cultures. 

For more than a century, Puerto Rico's political life has been dominated by its century-old ties to the United States.  Those ties have been largely beneficial, and most Puerto Ricans cherish their U.S. citizenship and want to maintain the current political relationship, either through continued commonwealth status or statehood.  A smaller percentage favor outright separation from the United States to make Puerto Rico a sovereign nation (the pro-independence party gubernatorial candidate usually gets 5% of the vote).  Yet the relationship with the United States is also the source of island society's central anxiety, which centers on the need for a permanent political status. 

Millions of Puerto Ricans have flocked stateside over the last 70 years in search of economic and educational opportunities and an improved quality of life, and they continue to do so.  In fact, Puerto Ricans living stateside now surpass the number living on the island: roughly four million.  But for most stateside boricuas, their allegiance still belongs to their island homeland, which means frequent trips during vacations and holidays.  A sizeable number of Puerto Rican passengers are on most planes from the U.S. arriving at Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport in San Juan.  They will burst into applause upon touchdown on Puerto Rican soil.  Many others return to Puerto Rico after retiring. 

The first wave of island migrants during the 1940s and 1950s largely settled in and around New York, and came seeking blue-collar jobs and the hope for a better future for their families.  Today, the typical migrant is more likely a highly educated professional moving to south or central Florida pursuing greater career advancement opportunities and an improved quality of life. 

Puerto Rican writer René Marqués, who came of age in the 1940s and 1950s when Puerto Rico was modernizing into an industrial economy and getting a big dose of U.S. influence, spoke of the dual nature of his island, which nevertheless contributed to its uniqueness. " Puerto Rico has two languages," he claimed, "and two citizenships, two basic philosophies of life, two flags, two anthems, two loyalties." 

Puerto Rico Today

Puerto Rico often makes headlines in U.S. news media, and daughters and sons of the island, from pop star Ricky Martin to actor Benicio Del Toro, have given U.S. and world audiences a taste of the enormous talent of this small island, which is also evident in the storied ledger of island baseball sluggers and boxing champs, from Roberto Clemente to Felix Trinidad.  Of course, the news is not always good, and recent struggles with both crime and economic issues have also drawn headlines. 

Puerto Rico, however, also draws attention because it is among the most developed destinations in the Caribbean and a true regional hub for transportation and telecommunications, with a modern infrastructure and a diversified economy. 

A Changing Economy

Puerto Rico is the easternmost of the Greater Antilles and the fourth largest island in the Caribbean after Cuba, Hispaniola (which comprises the Dominican Republic and Haiti), and Jamaica.  The island is located at the crossroads between North and South America, at just 3 1/2 hours airtime from New York, 60 minutes from Caracas, and only 4 days sailing from Atlantic ports in the U.S. and ports in the Gulf of Mexico.  The Puerto Rican territory includes three other small islands, Vieques, Culebra, and Mona, as well as numerous islets. 

Some 3,725,000 people live in Puerto Rico, approximately one-third of them within the San Juan metropolitan area.  The island, with an area of 3,435 square miles (9,000 sq.  km)—110 miles long by 39 miles wide—has a mountainous interior and is surrounded by a wide coastal plain where the majority of the population lives.  Rainfall averages 69 inches (175 cm) per year and year-round temperatures range from 74°F (23°C) in the winter to 81°F (27°C) in the summer. 

The island actually lost population during the last 10 years, one of a handful of U.S. jurisdictions to do so, according to the latest U.S. Census figures.  It's a sign of the island's long-standing recession, which began in 2006 and was just beginning to lift at the start of 2012.  With more than 4 million Puerto Ricans living stateside, it is now the first time there are more Puerto Ricans living in the continental U.S. than on the island. 

Relationship with the United States

Puerto Rico came under the European sphere of influence in 1493, when Christopher Columbus landed here.  Shortly thereafter, the island was conquered and settled by the Spaniards.  It remained a Spanish possession for 4 centuries. 

The territory of Puerto Rico was ceded to the United States upon signature of the Treaty of Paris, on December 10, 1898, a pact which ended the Spanish-American War.  Puerto Ricans have been citizens of the United States since 1917.  In 1950, after a long evolution toward greater self-government for Puerto Rico, the Congress of the United States enacted Public Law 600, which is "in the nature of a compact" and which became effective upon its acceptance by the electorate of Puerto Rico.  It provides that those sections of existing law, which defined the political, economic, and fiscal relationship between Puerto Rico and the United States, would remain in full force.  It also authorized the people of Puerto Rico to draft and adopt their own Constitution.  The Constitution was drafted by a popularly elected constitutional convention, overwhelmingly approved in a special referendum by the people of Puerto Rico, and approved by the United States Congress and the president of the United States, becoming effective upon proclamation of the governor of Puerto Rico on July 25, 1952.  Puerto Rico's relationship with the United States is referred to herein as commonwealth status. 

The United States and the Commonwealth of Puerto Rico (the "Commonwealth") share a common defense, market, and currency.  The Commonwealth exercises virtually the same control over its internal affairs as do the 50 states.  It differs from the states, however, in its relationship with the federal government.  The people of Puerto Rico are citizens of the United States but do not vote in national elections.  They are represented in Congress by a Resident Commissioner who has a voice in the House of Representatives but no vote.  Most federal taxes, except those such as Social Security taxes, which are imposed by mutual consent, are not levied in Puerto Rico.  No federal income tax is collected from Puerto Rico residents on income earned in Puerto Rico, except for certain federal employees who are subject to taxes on their salaries.  The official languages of Puerto Rico are Spanish and English. 

Governmental Structure

The Constitution of the Commonwealth provides for the separation of powers of the executive, legislative, and judicial branches of government.  The governor is elected every 4 years.  The Legislative Assembly consists of a Senate and a House of Representatives, the members of which are elected for 4-year terms.  The highest court within the local jurisdiction is the Supreme Court of Puerto Rico. 

Puerto Rico constitutes a District in the Federal Judiciary and has its own United States District Court.  Decisions of this court may be appealed to the United States Court of Appeals for the First Circuit and from there to the Supreme Court of the United States. 

Its progress and relative economic strength compared to Caribbean nations has stemmed from its economic diversity.  The $93.3-billion economy is comprised of manufacturing (41.5%); finance, insurance, and real estate (17.7%); trade (12.7%); government (9.6%); transportation and public utilities (6.5%); construction and mining (2.1%); and agriculture (0.5%). 

Puerto Ricans' annual income is among the highest in Latin America, and their average life expectancy has risen to 73.8 years.  The island's economy began evolving from its agricultural base in the 1950s when the Operation Bootstrap industrialization program began attracting stateside manufacturing plants.  The sector, powered by Puerto Rico's unique political status that allows firms to escape federal taxation, grew to represent nearly half of the island.  The demand for an educated workforce has resulted in at least 12 years of schooling for ordinary workers.  More importantly, the solid manufacturing industry sparked the growth of a whole host of professional services on the island, including legal, financial, engineering, and accounting, so that today Puerto Rico remains a regional center for most professional services.  The island has a number of universities, including the highly regarded University of Puerto Rico, with specialized programs in engineering, medicine, law, and increasingly research and development in a number of fields, including the life sciences. 

Manufacturing, for so many years the workhorse of the island economy, has been hit by competition from low-cost destinations, as well as high local utility, shipping, and other fixed costs. 

The sector's decline began in 1996, when a 10-year phase-out of U.S. industrial tax breaks began.  This marked the end of 75 years of federal incentives that attracted stateside industries and helped make Puerto Rico the Caribbean's industrial powerhouse.  Puerto Rico nevertheless continues to produce about half the prescription drugs sold in the United States. 

In response to the industrial exodus, the government is trying to entice existing high-tech industry to stay through an increased focus on research and development.  Another target is an island life-sciences research and manufacturing sector through joint private-industry and university ventures. 

A big strategy will also compensate for the loss in manufacturing by increasing other economic drivers, from agriculture to shipping to increased professional services, which could include anything from healthcare to finance. 

The Tourism Industry

Tourism, which represents about 6% of the gross national product, is a small but important economic segment, and a good source of employment, especially for the island's well-educated, worldly, bilingual youths.  The current administration, as with past administrations, wants to double the size of tourism to 12% of the economy. 

At once both labor-intensive and environmentally friendly, tourism is seen as a partial answer to the slowdown in the manufacturing sector.  Still, there are challenges: A Cuban reopening to the American tourism market could steal business from Puerto Rico, which saw its tourism industry's growth fueled enormously by the embargo imposed on Castro's communist government.  Before Fidel Castro took over Cuba in 1959, Americans by the thousands flocked to Havana, and Puerto Rico was a mere dot on the tourist map. 

Others say the island could still prosper with an open Cuba because the local tourism product is top of the line, aimed at the most wealthy and discriminating of travelers.  They also predict Puerto Rico tourism industry players will have a role in an open Cuba. 

Regardless, the tourism industry has been a perennially important part of the island's economic success, and it is poised to take on an even more significant role in the future.  The industry will redirect its focus, providing more opportunity for those interested in ecotourism, and smaller scale projects, diverging from the oceanfront resort tourism of Condado and Isla Verde, which still define the Puerto Rico experience for most visitors.  The effort to diversify will result in more boutique properties, secluded beach getaways, and mountain eco-lodges, which is good news for travelers here. 

Crime & Unemployment

Even with its advanced economy, Puerto Rico struggles with an unemployment rate surpassing 14% in recent years and a per capita income about half the level of the poorest U.S. state, Mississippi.  Its bloated government bureaucracy is an increasing problem, responsible for deficit spending and high local taxation. 

Mirroring the U.S. mainland, rising crime, drugs, AIDS, and other social problems plague Puerto Rico.  Its association with the United States has made it a favorite transshipment point for drug smugglers entering the U.S. market (because once on the island, travelers don't have to pass through Customs inspectors again when traveling to the United States). 

The drug problem is behind much of local violent crime, including killings that have pushed the local murder rate to among the highest in the United States. 

Other violence and social ills associated with drugs have also beset the island. 

Although the drug issue is of epidemic proportions, you can visit Puerto Rico and be completely unaware of any criminal activity.  Tourist areas in San Juan (including Old San Juan, Condado, and Isla Verde) are generally free of violent crime and theft, and efforts in the past 20 years to resolve the drug and crime problem have helped make safer streets. 

The 51st State? 

The New Progressive Party wants to make Puerto Rico the 51st state, but the opposition is strong, both on the island and in Congress.  A nonbinding referendum in 1998 stayed the New Progressive's bid for statehood.  Another status vote is set for November 2012 but again will not bind the United States to abide by its results. 

The other major party, the Popular Democratic Party, backs the continued commonwealth status, while the Puerto Rican Independence Party typically achieves less than 5% of popular support in gubernatorial elections.  These three parties have dominated island politics of the last 6 decades. 

See "Give Me Liberty or Give Me Statehood" for more. 

Looking Back: Puerto Rico History

In the Beginning

Although the Spanish occupation was the decisive factor defining Puerto Rico's current culture, the island was settled many thousands of years ago by Amerindians.  The oldest archaeological remains yet discovered were unearthed in 1948.  Found in a limestone cave a few miles east of San Juan, in Loíza Aldea, the artifacts consisted of conch shells, stone implements, and crude hatchets deposited by tribal peoples during the first century of the Christian era.  These people belonged to an archaic, semi-nomadic, cave-dwelling culture that had not developed either agriculture or pottery.  Some ethnologists suggest that these early inhabitants originated in Florida, immigrated to Cuba, and from there began a steady migration along the West Indian archipelago. 

Around a.d.  300, a different group of Amerindians, the Arawaks, migrated to Puerto Rico from the Orinoco Basin in what is now Venezuela.  Known by ethnologists as the Saladoids, they were the first of Puerto Rico's inhabitants to make and use pottery, which they decorated with exotic geometric designs in red and white.  Subsisting on fish, crab, and whatever else they could catch, they populated the big island as well as the offshore island of Vieques. 

By about a.d.  600, this culture had disappeared, bringing to an end the island's historical era of pottery making.  Ethnologists' opinions differ as to whether the tribes were eradicated by new invasions from South America, succumbed to starvation or plague, or simply evolved into the next culture that dominated Puerto Rico—the Ostionoids. 

Much less skilled at making pottery than their predecessors but more accomplished at polishing and grinding stones for jewelry and tools, the Ostionoids were the ethnic predecessors of the tribe that became the Taínos.  The Taínos inhabited Puerto Rico when it was explored and invaded by the Spanish, beginning in 1493.  The Taínos were spread throughout the West Indies but reached their greatest development in Puerto Rico and neighboring Hispaniola (the island shared by Haiti and the Dominican Republic). 

Ponce de León: Man of myth & legend

For an explorer of such myth and legend, Juan Ponce de León still remains an enigma to many historians, his exploits subject to as much myth as fact. 

It is known that he was born around 1460 in San Tervas de Campos, a province of Valladolid in Spain, to a noble Castilian family.  The red-haired youth grew into an active, aggressive, and perhaps impulsive young man, similar in some respects to Sir Francis Drake in England.  After taking part in Spain's Moorish wars, Ponce de León sailed to America with Columbus on his second voyage, in 1493. 

In the New World, Ponce de León served as a soldier in the Spanish settlement of Hispaniola, now the island home of Haiti and the Dominican Republic.  From 1502 to 1504, he led Spanish forces against Indians in the eastern part of the island, finally defeating them. 

In 1508, he explored Puerto Rico, discovering gold on the island and conquering the native tribes within a year.  A year later, he was named governor of Puerto Rico and soon rose to become one of the most powerful Europeans in the Americas.  From most accounts, Ponce de León was a good governor of Puerto Rico before his political rivals forced him from office in 1512. 

At that time, he received permission from King Ferdinand to colonize the island of Bimini in the Bahamas.  In searching for Bimini, he came upon the northeast coast of Florida—which he at first thought was an island—in the spring of 1513.  He named it La Florida, because he discovered it at the time of Pascua Florida or "Flowery Easter."  He was the first explorer to claim some of the North American mainland for Spain. 

The following year he sailed back to Spain, carrying with him 5,000 gold pesos.  King Ferdinand ordered him back to Puerto Rico with instructions to colonize both Bimini and Florida.  Back in Puerto Rico, Ponce de León ordered the building of the city of San Juan.  In 1521, he sailed to Florida with 200 men and supplies to start a colony.  This was to be his downfall.  Wounded by a poison arrow in his thigh, he was taken back to Cuba in June 1521 and died there from his wound. 

Legend says Ponce de León searched in vain for the so-called Fountain of Youth, first in Bimini and later in Florida.  He never once mentioned it in any of his private or official writings—at least those writings that still exist—and historians believe his goal was gold and other treasures (and perhaps to convert the natives to Catholicism). 

His legacy lives on at the Casa Blanca in Old San Juan.  Casa Blanca is the oldest continuously occupied residence in the Western Hemisphere and the oldest of about 800 Spanish colonial buildings in Old San Juan's National Historic Zone.  In 1968, it became a historic national monument.  Today the building is the site of the Juan Ponce de León Museum.  The conquistador's carved coat of arms greets visitors at the entrance. 

Taíno culture impressed the colonial Spanish, and it continues to impress modern sociologists.  This people's achievements included construction of ceremonial ballparks whose boundaries were marked by upright stone dolmens, development of a universal language, and creation of a complicated religious cosmology.  They believed in a hierarchy of deities who inhabited the sky.  The god Yocahu was the supreme creator.  Another god, Juracán, was perpetually angry and ruled the power of the hurricane.  Myths and traditions were perpetuated through ceremonial dances (areytos), drumbeats, oral traditions, and a ceremonial ballgame played between opposing teams (10–30 players per team) with a rubber ball; winning this game was thought to bring a good harvest and strong, healthy children.  Skilled at agriculture and hunting, the Taínos were also good sailors, canoe makers, and navigators. 

About 100 years before the Spanish invasion, the Taínos were challenged by an invading South American tribe—the Caribs.  Fierce, warlike, sadistic, and adept at using poison-tipped arrows, the Caribs raided Taíno settlements for slaves (especially female) and bodies for the completion of their rites of cannibalism.  Some ethnologists argue that the preeminence of the Taínos, shaken by the attacks of the Caribs, was already jeopardized by the time of the Spanish occupation.  In fact, it was the Caribs who fought most effectively against the Europeans; their behavior led the Europeans to unfairly attribute warlike tendencies to all of the island's tribes.  A dynamic tension between the Taínos and the Caribs certainly existed when Christopher Columbus landed on Puerto Rico. 

To understand Puerto Rico's prehistoric era, it is important to know that the Taínos, far more than the Caribs, contributed greatly to the everyday life and language that evolved during the Spanish occupation.  Taíno place names are still used for such towns as Utuado, Mayagüez, Caguas, and Humacao.  Many Taíno implements and techniques were copied directly by the Europeans, including the bohío (straw hut), the hamaca (hammock), the musical instrument known as maracas, and the method of making bread from the starchy cassava root.  Also, many Taíno superstitions and legends were adopted and adapted by the Spanish and still influence the Puerto Rican imagination. 

Spain, Syphilis & Slavery

Christopher Columbus became the first European to land on the shores of Puerto Rico, on November 19, 1493, near what would become the town of Aguadilla, during his second voyage to the New World.  Giving the island the name San Juan Bautista, he sailed on in search of shores with more obvious riches for the taking.  A European foothold on the island was established in 1508, when Juan Ponce de León, the first governor of Puerto Rico, imported colonists from the nearby island of Hispaniola.  They founded the town of Caparra, which lay close to the site of present-day San Juan.  The town was almost immediately wracked with internal power struggles among the Spanish settlers, who pressed the native peoples into servitude, evangelized them, and frantically sought for gold, thus quickly changing the face of the island. 

Meanwhile, the Amerindians began dying at an alarming rate, victims of imported diseases such as smallpox and whooping cough, against which they had no biological immunity.  The natives paid the Spanish back, giving them diseases such as syphilis against which they had little immunity.  Both communities reeled, disoriented from their contact with one another.  In 1511, the Amerindians rebelled against Spanish attempts to enslave them.  The rebellion was brutally suppressed by the Spanish forces of Ponce de León, whose muskets and firearms were vastly superior to the hatchets and arrows of the native peoples.  In desperation, the Taínos joined forces with their traditional enemies, the Caribs, but even that union did little to check the growth of European power. 

Because the Indians languished in slavery, sometimes preferring mass suicide to imprisonment, their work in the fields and mines of Puerto Rico was soon taken over by Africans who were imported by Spanish, Danish, Portuguese, and British slavers. 

By 1521, the island had been renamed Puerto Rico (Rich Port) and was one of the most strategic islands in the Caribbean, which was increasingly viewed as a Spanish sea.  Officials of the Spanish Crown dubbed the island "the strongest foothold of Spain in America" and hastened to strengthen the already impressive bulwarks surrounding the city of San Juan. 

Pirates & Pillaging Englishmen

Within a century, Puerto Rico's position at the easternmost edge of what would become Spanish America helped it play a major part in the Spanish expansion toward Florida, the South American coast, and Mexico.  It was usually the first port of call for Spanish ships arriving in the Americas; recognizing that the island was a strategic keystone, the Spanish decided to strengthen its defenses.  By 1540, La Fortaleza, the first of three massive fortresses built in San Juan, was completed.  By 1600, San Juan was completely enclosed by some of the most formidable ramparts in the Caribbean, whereas, ironically, the remainder of Puerto Rico was almost defenseless.  In 1565, the king of Spain ordered the governor of Puerto Rico to provide men and materials to strengthen the city of St. Augustine, Florida. 

By this time, the English (and to a lesser extent, the French) were seriously harassing Spanish shipping in the Caribbean and north Atlantic.  At least part of the French and English aggression was in retaliation for the 1493 Papal Bull dividing the New World between Portugal and Spain—an arrangement that eliminated all other nations from the spoils and colonization of the New World. 

Queen Elizabeth I's most effective weapon against Spanish expansion in the Caribbean wasn't the Royal Navy; rather, it was buccaneers such as John Hawkins and Sir Francis Drake.  Their victories included the destruction of St. Augustine in Florida, Cartagena in Colombia, and Santo Domingo in what is now the Dominican Republic, and the general harassment and pillaging of many Spanish ships and treasure convoys sailing from the New World to Europe with gold and silver from the Aztec and Inca empires.  The Royal Navy did play an important role, however, as its 1588 defeat of the Spanish Armada marked the rise of the English as a major maritime power.  The Spanish then began to aggressively fortify such islands as Puerto Rico. 

In 1595, Drake and Hawkins persuaded Queen Elizabeth to embark on a bold and daring plan to invade and conquer Puerto Rico.  An English general, the Earl of Cumberland, urged his men to bravery by "assuring your selves you have the maydenhead of Puerto Rico and so possesse the keyes of all the Indies." 

Confident that the island was "the very key of the West Indies which locketh and shutteth all the gold and silver in the continent of America and Brasilia," he brought into battle an English force of 4,500 soldiers and eventually captured La Fortaleza. 

Although the occupation lasted a full 65 days, the English eventually abandoned Puerto Rico when their armies were decimated by tropical diseases and the local population, which began to engage in guerrilla warfare against the invading army.  After pillaging and destroying much of the Puerto Rican countryside, the English left.  Their short but abortive victory compelled the Spanish king, Philip III, to continue construction of the island's defenses.  Despite these efforts, Puerto Rico retained a less-than-invincible aspect as Spanish soldiers in the forts often deserted or succumbed to tropical diseases. 

A Dutch Threat

In 1625, Puerto Rico was covetously eyed by Holland, whose traders and merchants desperately wanted a foothold in the West Indies.  Spearheaded by the Dutch West India Company, which had received trading concessions from the Dutch Crown covering most of the West Indies, the Dutch armies besieged El Morro Fortress in San Juan in one of the bloodiest assaults the fortress ever sustained.  When the commanding officer of El Morro refused to surrender, the Dutch burned San Juan to the ground, including all church and civil archives and the bishop's library, by then the most famous and complete collection of books in America.  Fueled by rage, the Spanish rallied and soon defeated the Dutch. 

In response to the destruction of the strongest link in the chain of Spanish defenses, Spain threw itself wholeheartedly into improving and reinforcing the defenses around San Juan.  King Philip IV justified his expenditures by declaring Puerto Rico the "front and vanguard of the Western Indies and, consequently, the most important of them and most coveted by the enemies of Spain." 

Within 150 years, after extravagant expenditures of time and money, San Juan's walls were almost impregnable.  Military sophistication was added during the 1760s, when two Irishmen, Tomas O'Daly and Alejandro O'Reilly, surrounded the city with some of Europe's most up-to-date defenses.  Despite the thick walls, however, the island's defenses remained precarious because of the frequent tropical epidemics that devastated the ranks of the soldiers; the chronically late pay, which weakened the soldiers' morale; and the belated and often wrong-minded priorities of the Spanish monarchy. 

A Catholic Crusade

From the earliest days of Spanish colonization, an army of priests and missionaries embarked on a vigorous crusade to convert Puerto Rico's Taínos to Roman Catholicism.  King Ferdinand himself paid for the construction of a Franciscan monastery and a series of chapels, and he required specific support of the church from the aristocrats who had been awarded land grants in the new territories.  They were required to build churches, provide Christian burials, and grant religious instruction to both Taíno and African slaves. 

Among the church's most important activities were the Franciscan monks' efforts to teach the island's children how to read, write, and count.  In 1688, Bishop Francisco Padilla, who is now included among the legends of Puerto Rico, established one of the island's most famous schools.  When it became clear that local parents were too poor to provide their children with appropriate clothing, he succeeded in persuading the king of Spain to pay for their clothes. 

Puerto Rico was declared by the pope as the first see (ecclesiastical headquarters) in the New World.  In 1519, it became the general headquarters of the Inquisition in the New World. ( About 70 years later, the Inquisition's headquarters were transferred to the well-defended city of Cartagena, Colombia.) 

From Smuggling to Sugar

The island's early development was shackled by Spain's insistence on a centrist economy.  All goods exported from or imported to Puerto Rico had to pass through Spain itself, usually through Seville.  In effect, this policy prohibited any official trade between Puerto Rico and its island neighbors. 

In response, a flourishing black market developed.  Cities such as Ponce became smuggling centers.  This black market was especially prevalent after the Spanish colonization of Mexico and Peru, when many Spanish goods, which once would have been sent to Puerto Rico, ended up in those more immediately lucrative colonies instead.  Although smugglers were punished if caught, nothing could curb this illegal (and untaxed) trade.  Some historians estimate that almost everyone on the island—including priests, citizens, and military and civic authorities—was actively involved in smuggling. 

By the mid-1500s, the several hundred settlers who had immigrated to Puerto Rico from Spain heard and sometimes believed rumors of the fortunes to be made in the gold mines of Peru.  When the island's population declined because of the ensuing mass exodus, the king enticed 500 families from the Canary Islands to settle on Puerto Rico between 1683 and 1691.  Meanwhile, an active trade in slaves—imported as labor for fields that were increasingly used for sugar-cane and tobacco production—swelled the island's ranks.  This happened despite the Crown's imposition of strict controls on the number of slaves that could be brought in.  Sugar cane earned profits for many islanders, but Spanish mismanagement, fraud within the government bureaucracy, and a lack of both labor and ships to transport the finished product to market discouraged the fledgling industry.  Later, fortunes were made and lost in the production of ginger, an industry that died as soon as the Spanish government raised taxes on ginger imports to exorbitant levels.  Despite the arrival of immigrants to Puerto Rico from many countries, diseases such as spotted fever, yellow fever, malaria, smallpox, and measles wiped out the population almost as fast as it grew. 

More Smuggling

As the philosophical and political movement known as the Enlightenment swept both Europe and North America during the late 1700s and the 1800s, Spain moved to improve Puerto Rico's economy through its local government.  The island's defenses were beefed up, roads and bridges were built, and a public education program was launched.  The island remained a major Spanish naval stronghold in the New World.  Immigration from Europe and other places more than tripled the population.  It was during this era that Puerto Rico began to develop a unique identity of its own, a native pride, and a consciousness of its importance within the Caribbean. 

The heavily fortified city of San Juan, the island's civic centerpiece, remained under Spain's rigid control.  Although it was the victim of an occasional pirate raid, or an attack by English or French forces, the outlying countryside was generally left alone to develop its own local power centers.  The city of Ponce, for example, flourished under the Spanish Crown's lax supervision and grew wealthy from the tons of contraband and the high-quality sugar that passed through its port.  This trend was also encouraged by the unrealistic law that declared San Juan the island's only legal port.  Contemporary sources, in fact, cite the fledgling United States as among the most active of Ponce's early contraband trading partners. 

Rising Power

During the 18th century, the number of towns on the island grew rapidly.  There were five settlements in Puerto Rico in 1700; 100 years later, there were almost 40 settlements, and the island's population had grown to more than 150,000. 

Meanwhile, the waters of the Caribbean increasingly reflected the diplomatic wars unfolding in Europe.  In 1797, after easily capturing Trinidad (which was poorly defended by the Spanish), the British failed in a spectacular effort to conquer Puerto Rico.  The criollos, or native Puerto Ricans, played a major role in the island's defense and later retained a growing sense of their cultural identity. 

The islanders were becoming aware that Spain could not enforce the hundreds of laws it had previously imposed to support its centrist trade policies.  Thousands of merchants, farmers, and civil authorities traded profitably with privateers from various nations, thereby deepening the tendency to evade or ignore the laws imposed by Spain and its colonial governors.  The attacks by privateers on British shipping were especially severe because pirates based in Puerto Rico ranged as far south as Trinidad, bringing dozens of captured British ships into Puerto Rican harbors. ( Several decades earlier, British privateers operating out of Jamaica had endlessly harassed Spanish shipping; the tradition of government-sanctioned piracy was well established.) 

It was during this period that coffee—which would later play an essential role in the island's economy—was introduced to the Puerto Rican highlands from the nearby Dominican Republic. 

Despite the power of San Juan and its Spanish institutions, 18th-century Puerto Rico was predominantly rural.  The report of a special emissary of the Spanish king, Marshal Alejandro O'Reilly, remains a remarkably complete analysis of 18th-century Puerto Rican society.  It helped promote a more progressive series of fiscal and administrative policies that reflected the Enlightenment ideals found in many European countries. 

Puerto Rico began to be viewed as a potential source of income for the Spanish Empire rather than a drain on income.  One of O'Reilly's most visible legacies was his recommendation that people live in towns rather than be scattered about the countryside.  Shortly after this, seven new towns were established. 

As the island prospered and its bourgeoisie became more numerous and affluent, life became more refined.  New public buildings were erected; concerts were introduced; and everyday aspects of life—such as furniture and social ritual—grew more ornate.  Insights into Puerto Rico's changing life can be seen in the works of its most famous 18th-century painter, José Campeche. 

The Last Bastion

Much of the politics of 19th-century Latin America cannot be understood without a review of Spain's problems at that time.  Up until 1850, there was political and military turmoil in Spain, a combination that eventually led to the collapse of its empire.  Since 1796, Spain had been a military satellite of postrevolutionary France, an alliance that brought it into conflict with England.  In 1804, Admiral Horatio Lord Nelson's definitive victory for England over French and Spanish ships during the Battle of Trafalgar left England in supreme control of the international sea lanes and interrupted trade and communications between Spain and its colonies in the New World. 

These events led to changes for Spanish-speaking America.  The revolutionary fervor of Simón Bolívar and his South American compatriots spilled over to the entire continent, embroiling Spain in a desperate attempt to hold on to the tattered remains of its empire.  Recognizing that Puerto Rico and Cuba were probably the last bastions of Spanish Royalist sympathy in the Americas, Spain liberalized its trade policies, decreeing that goods no longer had to pass through Seville. 

The sheer weight and volume of illegal Puerto Rican trade with such countries as Denmark, France, and—most importantly—the United States, forced Spain's hand in establishing a realistic set of trade reforms.  A bloody revolution in Haiti, which had produced more sugar cane than almost any other West Indies island, spurred sugar-cane and coffee production in Puerto Rico.  Also important was the introduction of a new and more prolific species of sugar cane, the Otahiti, which helped increase production even more. 

By the 1820s, the United States was providing ample supplies of such staples as lumber, salt, butter, fish, grain, and foodstuffs, and huge amounts of Puerto Rican sugar, molasses, coffee, and rum were consumed in the United States.  Meanwhile, the United States was increasingly viewed as the keeper of the peace in the Caribbean, suppressing the piracy that flourished while Spain's Navy was preoccupied with its European wars. 

During Venezuela's separation from Spain, Venezuelans loyal to the Spanish Crown fled en masse to the remaining Royalist bastions in the Americas—Puerto Rico and, to a lesser extent, Cuba.  Although many arrived penniless, having forfeited their properties in South America in exchange for their lives, their excellent understanding of agriculture and commerce probably catalyzed much of the era's economic development in Puerto Rico.  Simultaneously, many historians argue, their unflinching loyalty to the Spanish Crown contributed to one of the most conservative and reactionary social structures anywhere in the Spanish-speaking Caribbean.  In any event, dozens of Spanish naval expeditions that were intended to suppress the revolutions in Venezuela were outfitted in Puerto Rican harbors during this period. 

A Revolt Suppressed & Slavery Abolished

During the latter half of the 19th century, political divisions were drawn in Puerto Rico, reflecting both the political instability in Spain and the increasing demands of Puerto Ricans for some form of self-rule.  As governments and regimes in Spain rose and fell, Spanish policies toward its colonies in the New World changed, too. 

In 1865, representatives from Puerto Rico, Cuba, and the Philippines were invited to Madrid to air their grievances as part of a process of liberalizing Spanish colonial policy.  Reforms, however, did not follow as promised, and a much-publicized and very visible minirevolt (during which the mountain city of Lares was occupied) was suppressed by the Spanish governors in 1868.  Some of the funds and much of the publicity for this revolt came from expatriate Puerto Ricans living in Chile, St. Thomas, and New York. 

Slavery was abolished in March 1873, about 40 years after it had been abolished throughout the British Empire.  About 32,000 slaves were freed following years of liberal agitation.  Abolition was viewed as a major victory for liberal forces throughout Puerto Rico, although cynics claim that slavery was much less entrenched in Puerto Rico than in neighboring Cuba, where the sugar economy was far more dependent on slave labor. 

The 1895 revolution in Cuba increased the Puerto Rican demand for greater self-rule; during the ensuing intellectual ferment, many political parties emerged.  The Cuban revolution provided part of the spark that led to the Spanish-American War, Cuban independence, and U.S. control of Puerto Rico, the Philippines, and the Pacific island of Guam. 

The Yanks Are Coming!  The Yanks Are Coming! 

In 1897, faced with intense pressure from sources within Puerto Rico, a weakened Spain granted its colony a measure of autonomy, but it came too late.  Other events were taking place between Spain and the United States that would forever change the future of Puerto Rico. 

On February 15, 1898, the U.S. battleship Maine was blown up in the harbor of Havana, killing 266 men.  The so-called yellow press in the United States, especially the papers owned by the tycoon William Randolph Hearst, aroused Americans' emotions into a fever pitch for war, with the rallying cry "Remember the Maine." 

On April 20 of that year, President William McKinley signed a resolution demanding Spanish withdrawal from Cuba.  The president ordered a blockade of Cuba's ports, and on April 24, Spain, in retaliation, declared a state of war with the United States.  On April 25, the U.S. Congress declared war on Spain.  In Cuba, the naval battle of Santiago was won by American forces, and in another part of the world, the Spanish colony of the Philippines was also captured by U.S. troops. 

On July 25, after their victory at Santiago, U.S. troops landed at Guánica, Puerto Rico, and several days later they took over Ponce.  U.S. Navy Capt.  Alfred T. Mahan later wrote that the United States viewed Puerto Rico, Spain's remaining colonial outpost in the Caribbean, as vital to American interests in the area.  Puerto Rico could be used as a military base to help the United States maintain control of the Isthmus of Panama and to keep communications and traffic flowing between the Atlantic and the Pacific. 

Spain offered to trade other territory for Puerto Rico, but the United States refused and demanded Spain's ouster from the island.  Left with little choice against superior U.S. forces, Spain capitulated.  The Spanish-American War ended on August 31, 1898, with the surrender of Spain and the virtual collapse of the once-powerful Spanish Empire.  Puerto Rico, in the words of McKinley, was to "become a territory of the United States." 

Although the entire war lasted just over 4 months, the invasion of Puerto Rico took only 2 weeks. " It wasn't much of a war," remarked Theodore Roosevelt, who had led the Rough Riders cavalry outfit in their charge up San Juan Hill, "but it was all the war there was."  The United States had suffered only four casualties while acquiring Puerto Rico, the Philippines, and the island of Guam.  The Treaty of Paris, signed on December 10, 1898, settled the terms of Spain's surrender. 

A Dubious Prize

Some Americans looked on Puerto Rico as a "dubious prize."  One-third of the population consisted of mulattoes and blacks, descended from slaves, who had no money or land.  Only about 12% of the population could read or write.  About 8% were enrolled in school.  It is estimated that a powerful landed gentry—only about 2% of the population—owned more than two-thirds of the land. 

Washington set up a military government in Puerto Rico, headed by the War Department.  A series of governors-general were appointed to rule the island, with almost the authority of dictators.  Although ruling over a rather unhappy populace, these governors-general brought about much-needed change, including tax and public health reforms.  But most Puerto Ricans wanted autonomy, and many leaders, including Luís Muñoz Rivera, tried to persuade Washington to compromise.  However, their protests generally fell on deaf ears. 

Tensions mounted between Puerto Ricans and their new American governors.  In 1900, U.S. Secretary of War Elihu Root decided that military rule of the island was inadequate; he advocated a program of autonomy that won the endorsement of President McKinley. 

The island's beleaguered economy was further devastated by an 1899 hurricane that caused millions of dollars' worth of property damage, killed 3,000 people, and left one out of four people homeless.  Belatedly, Congress allocated the sum of $200,000, but this did little to relieve the suffering. 

Thus began a nearly 50-year colonial protectorate relationship, as Puerto Rico was recognized as an unincorporated territory with its governor named by the president of the United States.  Only the president had the right to override the veto of the island's governors.  The legislative branch was composed of an 11-member executive committee appointed by the president, plus a 35-member chamber of delegates elected by popular vote.  A resident commissioner, it was agreed, would represent Puerto Rico in Congress, "with voice but no vote." 

As the United States prepared to enter World War I in 1917, Puerto Ricans were granted U.S. citizenship and, thus, were subject to military service.  The people of Puerto Rico were allowed to elect their legislature, which had been reorganized into a Senate and a House of Representatives.  The president of the United States continued to appoint the governor of the island and retained the power to veto any of the governor's actions. 

From Harvard to Revolution

Many Puerto Ricans continued (at times rather violently) to agitate for independence.  Requests for a plebiscite were constantly turned down.  Meanwhile, economic conditions improved as the island's population began to grow dramatically.  Government revenues increased as large corporations from the U.S. mainland found Puerto Rico a profitable place in which to do business.  There was much labor unrest, and by 1909, a labor movement demanding better working conditions and higher wages was gaining momentum. 

The emerging labor movement showed its strength by organizing a cigar workers' strike in 1914 and a sugar-cane workers' strike the following year.  The 1930s proved to be disastrous for Puerto Rico, which suffered greatly from the worldwide depression.  To make matters worse, two devastating hurricanes—one in 1928 and another in 1932—destroyed millions of dollars' worth of crops and property.  There was also an outbreak of disease that demoralized the population.  Some relief came in the form of food shipments authorized by Congress. 

As tension between Puerto Rico and the United States intensified, there emerged Pedro Albizu Campos, a graduate of Harvard Law School and a former U.S. Army officer.  Leading a group of militant anti-American revolutionaries, he held that America's claim to Puerto Rico was illegal, as the island had already been granted autonomy by Spain.  Terrorist acts by his followers, including assassinations, led to Albizu's imprisonment, but terrorist activities continued. 

In 1935, President Franklin D. Roosevelt launched the Puerto Rican Reconstruction Administration, which provided for agricultural development, public works, and electrification.  The following year, Sen. Millard E. Tidings of Maryland introduced a measure to grant independence to the island.  His efforts were cheered by a local leader, Luís Muñoz Marín, son of the statesman Luís Muñoz Rivera.  In 1938, the young Muñoz founded the Popular Democratic Party, which adopted the slogan "Bread, Land, and Liberty."  By 1940, this party had gained control of more than 50% of the seats of both the upper and lower houses of government, and the young Muñoz was elected leader of the Senate. 

Roosevelt appointed Rexford Guy Tugwell governor of Puerto Rico; Tugwell spoke Spanish and seemed to have genuine concern for the plight of the islanders.  Muñoz met with Tugwell and convinced him that Puerto Rico was capable of electing its own governor.  As a step in that direction, Roosevelt appointed Jesús Piñero as the first resident commissioner of the island.  In 1944, the U.S. Congress approved a bill granting Puerto Rico the right to elect its own governor.  This was the beginning of the famed Operation Bootstrap, a pump-priming fiscal and economic aid package designed to improve the island's standard of living. 

Shooting at Harry

In 1946, President Harry S. Truman appointed native-born Jesús Piñero as governor of Puerto Rico, and the following year the U.S. Congress recognized the right of Puerto Ricans to elect their own governor.  In 1948, Luís Muñoz Marín became the first elected governor and immediately recommended that Puerto Rico be transformed into an "associated free state."  Endorsement of his plan was delayed by Washington, but President Truman approved the Puerto Rican Commonwealth Bill in 1950, providing for a plebiscite in which voters would decide whether they would remain a colony or become a U.S. commonwealth.  In June 1951, Puerto Ricans voted three to one for commonwealth status, and on July 25, 1952, the Commonwealth of Puerto Rico was born. 

This event was marred when a group of nationalists marched on the Governor's Mansion in San Juan, resulting in 27 deaths and hundreds of casualties.  A month later, two Puerto Rican nationalists made an unsuccessful attempt on Truman's life in Washington, killing a police officer in the process.  And in March 1954, four Puerto Rican nationalists wounded five U.S. Congressmen when they fired down into the House of Representatives from the visitors' gallery. 

Despite this violence, during the 1950s Puerto Rico began to take pride in its culture and traditions.  In 1955, the Institute of Puerto Rican Culture was established, and 1957 saw the inauguration of the Pablo Casals Festival, which launched a renaissance of classical music and a celebration of the arts.  In 1959, a wealthy industrialist, Luís A. Ferré, donated his personal art collection toward the establishment of the Museo de Arte de Ponce. 

Give Me Liberty or Give Me Statehood

Luís Muñoz Marín resigned from office in 1964, but his party continued to win subsequent elections.  The Independent Party, which demanded complete autonomy, gradually lost power.  An election on July 23, 1967, reconfirmed the desire of most Puerto Ricans to maintain commonwealth status.  In 1968, Luís A. Ferré won a close race for governor, spearheading a pro-statehood party, the Partido Nuevo Progresista, or New Progressive Party.  It staunchly advocated statehood as an alternative to the island's commonwealth status, but in 1972, the Partido Popular Democrático, or Popular Democratic Party, returned to power; by then, the island's economy was based largely on tourism, rum, and industry.  Operation Bootstrap had been successful in creating thousands of new jobs, although more than 100,000 Puerto Ricans moved to the U.S. mainland during the 1950s, seeking a better life.  The island's economy continued to improve, although perhaps not as quickly as anticipated by Operation Bootstrap. 

Puerto Rico grabbed the world's attention in 1979 with the launching of the Pan-American Games.  The island's culture received a boost in 1981 with the opening of the Center of the Performing Arts in San Juan, which attracted world-famous performers and virtuosos.  The international spotlight again focused on Puerto Rico at the time of the first papal visit there in 1986.  John Paul II (or Juan Pablo II, as he was called locally) kindled a renewed interest in religion, especially among the Catholic youth of the island. 

In 1996, Puerto Rico lost its special tax-break status, which had originally lured U.S. industry to the island. 

A flare-up between the U.S. Navy and Puerto Ricans, especially the islanders of Vieques, burst into the headlines in 1999.  Islanders vehemently protested the Navy's use of Vieques for ordnance testing, which they'd done since 1947. 

In 2001, Sila M. Calderón was inaugurated as Puerto Rico's first female governor.  The daughter of a rich entrepreneur whose holdings include ice-cream factories and hotels, she was raised to a life of privilege.  As head of the Popular Democratic Party, she took office and immediately angered Washington by advocating that the U.S. Navy halt bombing on Vieques.  She also opposes statehood for Puerto Rico. " When I was a little girl, everybody who had power were men," the new governor told the press. " Now girls know that it is very normal for power to be shared by men and women." 

In 2003, the U.S. Navy closed its Roosevelt Roads Naval Station on the island of Vieques in the wake of massive protests.  With the closing, more than 6,000 people lost their jobs and the island itself suffered a falloff of $300 million a year in income.  Puerto Rican leaders are hoping to fill the economic gap with tourism. 

The former naval base has been turned over to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service for use as a nature refuge, as the landmass is the home to several endangered species, both plant and animal. 

In December 2005, the Bush administration asked Congress to set another vote to allow the citizens of the overpopulated island to decide on their future: to opt for statehood or else full independence.  Statehood would bring the right to vote in U.S. elections, and full independence would require some islanders to relinquish their American citizenship. 

President Barack Obama has also called on Congress to authorize a vote on Puerto Rico's status, but it failed to act on legislation introduced in 2010 that would have done just that.  Puerto Rico will hold a local status vote in November 2012.  It was pushed by the administration of Gov. Luis Fortuño, a pro-statehood Republican who took office in 2009. 

Because of the economic challenges of full independence, only a small number of Puerto Ricans back full independence.  As a state, Puerto Rico might alter the balance of power between Democrats and Republicans. 

Of course, one option still remains on the table and that is for Puerto Rico to continue as a commonwealth of the U.S. At present, Puerto Rico has no voting representation in Congress.  On the other hand, islanders pay no federal income taxes and, yet they benefit from billions in federal social programs. 

Puerto Rico Population & Pop Culture

The inhabitants of Puerto Rico represent a mix of races, cultures, languages, and religions.  They draw their heritage from the original native population, from Spanish royalists who sought refuge here, from African slaves imported to work the sugar plantations, and from other Caribbean islanders who have come here seeking jobs.  The Spanish they speak is a mix, too, with many words borrowed from the pre-Columbian Amerindian tongue as well as English.  Even the Catholicism they practice incorporates some Taíno and African traditions. 

Nearly four million people live on the main island, making it one of the most densely populated islands in the world.  It has an average of about 1,000 people per square mile, a ratio higher than that of any of the 50 states.  There are nearly as many Puerto Ricans living stateside as there are on the island.  If they were to all return home, the island would be so crowded that there would be virtually no room for them to live. 

When the United States acquired the island in 1898, most Puerto Ricans worked in agriculture; today most jobs are industrial.  One-third of Puerto Rico's population is concentrated in the San Juan metropolitan area. 

When the Spanish forced the Taíno peoples into slavery, virtually the entire indigenous population was decimated, except for a few Amerindians who escaped into the remote mountains.  Eventually they intermarried with the poor Spanish farmers and became known as jíbaros.  Because of industrialization and migration to the cities, few jíbaros remain. 

Besides the slaves imported from Africa to work on the plantations, other ethnic groups joined the island's racial mix.  Fleeing Simón Bolívar's independence movements in South America, Spanish loyalists headed to Puerto Rico—a fiercely conservative Spanish colony during the early 1800s.  French families also flocked here from both Louisiana and Haiti, as changing governments or violent revolutions turned their worlds upside down.  As word of the rich sugar-cane economy reached economically depressed Scotland and Ireland, many farmers from those countries also journeyed to Puerto Rico in search of a better life. 

During the mid–19th century, labor was needed to build roads.  Initially, Chinese workers were imported for this task, followed by workers from countries such as Italy, France, Germany, and even Lebanon.  American expatriates came to the island after 1898.  Long after Spain had lost control of Puerto Rico, Spanish immigrants continued to arrive on the island.  The most significant new immigrant population arrived in the 1960s, when thousands of Cubans fled from Fidel Castro's communist state.  The latest arrivals in Puerto Rico have come from the Dominican Republic. 

Islanders are most known for their contributions to popular music, and visitors here will no doubt see why.  Sometimes, the whole island seems to be dancing.  It's been that way since the Taínos, with music an important aspect of their religious and cultural ceremonies. 

The latest musical craze born in Puerto Rico is reggaeton, an infectious blend of rap, reggae, and island rhythms, often accompanied by x-rated hip shaking.  Daddy Yankee put the music on the world map with his hit "Gasolina"; other well-known island artists in the genre are the duo Wisin y Yandel and Don Omar.  Vico C is a local rapper credited with being a pioneer for today's reggaeton stars. 

Puerto Rico is still dominated by salsa, a mix of African, Caribbean, and North American rhythms.  Salsa bands tend to be full orchestras, with brass sections and several percussionists.  The beat is infectious and nonstop, but salsa dancing is all about smooth gyrations and style. 

The late Tito Puente, a Latin Jazz master, was instrumental in the development of the music along with singer Ismael Miranda.  Puerto Rican salsa won world-wide fame in the late 1970s and early 1980s through groups such as the Fania All Stars, who paired Héctor Lavoe, Rubén Blades and Willie Colón, and El Gran Combo, who still performs today after 40 years together.  Famous contemporary practitioners are Gilberto Santa Rosa and Marc Anthony.  Actress and singer Jennifer López, Anthony's ex-wife, is another of Puerto Rico's most famous descendants.  Their pet project, the biopic "El Cantante," based on Lavoe's life, was filmed in Puerto Rico and New York in 2007. 

Jennifer López is not the only borinqueña to make a mark on the world stage: a total of four Puerto Rican women have won the Miss Universe competition, most recently Zuleyka Rivera in 2006. 

The most famous Puerto Rican singer, however, is pop star Ricky Martin, who continues to be a hometown favorite and sells out shows during his frequent island performances. 

Puerto Ricans have also made their mark in professional sports, particularly baseball.  The most famous, of course, was Roberto Clemente, who is still a local legend and a role model for young ball players.  Current professional baseball players from Puerto Rico include Jorge Posada, Carlos Delgado, Carlos Beltrán, Iván Rodríguez, and the Molina brothers, Bengie and Yadier. 

Languages

Spanish is the language of Puerto Rico, although English is widely spoken, especially in hotels, restaurants, shops, and nightclubs that attract tourists.  In the hinterlands, however, Spanish prevails. 

If you plan to travel extensively in Puerto Rico but don't speak Spanish, pick up a Spanish-language phrase book.  The most popular is Berlitz Spanish for Travelers, published by Collier Macmillan.  There's also Frommer's Spanish Phrasefinder, a pocket guide with basic phrases to help you try to blend in with the locals. 

Many Amerindian words from pre-Columbian times have been retained in the language.  For example, the Puerto Rican national anthem, titled "La Borinqueña," refers to the Arawak name for the island Borinquén, and Mayagüez, Yauco, Caguas, Guaynabo, and Arecibo are all pre-Columbian place names. 

Many Amerindian words were borrowed to describe the phenomena of the New World.  The natives slept in hamacas, and today Puerto Ricans still lounge in hammocks.  The god Juracán was feared by the Arawaks just as much as contemporaries fear autumn hurricanes.  African words were also added to the linguistic mix, and Castilian Spanish was significantly modified. 

With the American takeover in 1898, English became the first Germanic language to be introduced into Puerto Rico.  This linguistic marriage led to what some scholars call Spanglish, a colloquial dialect blending English and Spanish into forms not considered classically correct in either linguistic tradition. 

The bilingual confusion was also greatly accelerated by the mass exodus to the U.S. mainland.  Thousands of Puerto Rican migrants quickly altered their speech patterns to conform to the language used in the urban Puerto Rican communities of cities such as New York. 

Religions

The majority of Puerto Ricans are Roman Catholic, but religious freedom for all faiths is guaranteed by the Commonwealth Constitution.  There is a Jewish Community Center in Miramar, and there's a Jewish Reformed Congregation in Santurce.  There are Protestant services for Baptists, Episcopalians, Lutherans, and Presbyterians, and there are other interdenominational services. 

Although it is predominantly Catholic, Puerto Rico does not follow Catholic dogma and rituals as assiduously as do the churches of Spain and Italy.  Because the church supported slavery, there was a long-lasting resentment against the all-Spanish clergy of colonial days.  Island-born men were excluded from the priesthood.  When Puerto Ricans eventually took over the Catholic churches on the island, they followed some guidelines from Spain and Italy but modified or ignored others. 

Following the U.S. acquisition of the island in 1898, Protestantism grew in influence and popularity.  There were Protestants on the island before the invasion, but their numbers increased after Puerto Rico became a U.S. colony.  Many islanders liked the idea of separation of church and state, as provided for in the U.S. Constitution.  In recent years, Pentecostal fundamentalism has swept across the island.  There are some 1,500 Evangelical churches in Puerto Rico today. 

As throughout Latin America, the practice of Catholicism in Puerto Rico blends native Taíno and African traditions with mainstream tenets of the faith.  It has been said that the real religion of Puerto Rico is espiritsmo (spiritualism), a quasi-magical belief in occult forces.  Spanish colonial rulers outlawed spiritualism, but under the U.S. occupation it flourished in dozens of isolated pockets of the island. 

Students of religion trace spiritualism to the Taínos, and to their belief that jípia (the spirits of the dead—somewhat like the legendary vampire) slumbered by day and prowled the island by night.  Instead of looking for bodies, the jípia were seeking wild fruit to eat.  Thus arose the Puerto Rican tradition of putting out fruit on the kitchen table.  Even in modern homes today, you'll often find a bowl of plastic, flamboyantly colored fruit resting atop a refrigerator. 

Many islanders still believe in the "evil eye," or mal de ojo.  To look on a person or a person's possessions covetously, according to believers, can lead to that individual's sickness or perhaps death.  Children are given bead charm bracelets to guard against the evil eye.  Spiritualism also extends into healing, folk medicine, and food.  For example, some spiritualists believe that cold food should never be eaten with hot food.  Some island plants, herbs, and oils are believed to have healing properties, and spiritualist literature is available throughout the island. 

Eating & Drinking

Some of Puerto Rico's finest chefs, Wilo Benet and Alfredo Ayala, have based their supremely successful careers on paying gourmet homage to their mothers' and grandmothers' cooking.  A whole new generation of rising culinary artists is following in their footsteps by putting Puerto Rico's comida criolla at the front and center of their Nuevo Latino experimentation. 

Comida criolla, as Puerto Rican food is known, is flavorful but not hot.  It can be traced back to the Arawaks and Taínos, the original inhabitants of the island, who thrived on a diet of corn, tropical fruit, and seafood.  When Ponce de León arrived with Columbus in 1493, the Spanish added beef, pork, rice, wheat, and olive oil to the island's foodstuffs. 

The Spanish soon began planting sugar cane and importing slaves from Africa, who brought with them okra and taro (known in Puerto Rico as yautia).  The mingling of flavors and ingredients passed from generation to generation among the different ethnic groups that settled on the island, resulting in the exotic blend of today's Puerto Rican cuisine. 

Its two essential ingredients are sofrito, a mix of garlic, sweet peppers, onion, and fresh green herbs, and adobo, a blend of dried spices such as peppercorns, oregano, garlic, salt, olive oil, and lime juice or vinegar, rubbed on pork or chicken before it is slowly roasted.  Achiote (annatto seeds) is often used as well, imparting an orange color to many common Puerto Rican dishes.  Other seasonings and ingredients commonly used are coriander, papaya, cacao, níspero (a tropical fruit that's brown, juicy, and related to the kiwi), and apio (a small African-derived tuber that's like a pungent turnip). 

The rich and fertile fields of Puerto Rico produce a wide variety of vegetables.  A favorite is the chayote, a pear-shaped vegetable called christophine throughout most of the English-speaking Caribbean.  Its delicately flavored flesh is often compared to that of summer squash.  Native root vegetables such as yucca, breadfruit, and plantain, called viandas, either accompany main meals or are used as ingredients in them. 

If you're in Old San Juan and are looking for a noshing tour of the local cuisine, we highly recommend Flavors of San Juan (www.flavorsofsanjuan.com;   787/964-2447). 

Appetizers & Soups

Lunch and dinner generally begin with hot appetizers such as bacalaitos, crunchy cod fritters; surullitos, sweet and plump cornmeal fingers; and empanadillas, crescent-shaped turnovers filled with lobster, crab, conch, or beef.  For starters, also look to tostones or arepas, baked flour casseroles, stuffed with seafood or meat.  Fried cheeses in dipping sauces made with tropical fruit are another option. 

Soups are also a popular beginning, with a traditional chicken soup caldo gallego being a local favorite.  Imported from Spain's northwestern province of Galicia, it is prepared with salt pork, white beans, ham, and berzas (collard greens) or grelos (turnip greens), and the whole kettle is flavored with spicy chorizos (Spanish sausages).  Sopón de pescado (fish soup), is prepared with the head and tail intact and relies on the catch of the day.  Traditionally, it is made with garlic and spices plus onions and tomatoes with the flavor enhanced by a tiny dash of vinegar and varying amounts of sherry.  Variations differ from restaurant to restaurant.  Recently, thick comfort soups made with viandas, such as plantain or pumpkin, have been taking a flavorful stand at many nuevocriolla restaurants. 

There are also ever-present accompaniments at every Puerto Rican meal.  Yucca is often steamed then served in olive oil and vinegar with sweet roasted peppers and onions.  Fried plantain disks called tostones accompany most meals.  The plantains are also smashed with garlic and other seasonings and cooked into a casserole called mofongo.  White rice and delicious stewed pink beans, called arroz y habichuelas, are also ever-present side dishes to most main meals.  Another is arroz con gandules, stewed rice with pigeon peas. 

  Strange fruit

A variety of starchy root vegetables and fruits form a staple of island cuisine, not just in Puerto Rico but throughout the Caribbean.  While cassava is native to South America, plantains and bananas are from Asia and yams from Africa. 

Breadfruit stems from the South Pacific and its most legendary sailing adventures.  During Capt.  James Cook's explorations of the South Pacific in the late 1700s, West Indian planters were intrigued by his accounts of the breadfruit tree, which grew in abundance on Tahiti.  Seeing it as a source of cheap food for their slaves, they beseeched King George III to sponsor an expedition to bring the trees to the Caribbean.  In 1787, the king put Capt.  William Bligh in command of HMS Bounty and sent him to do just that.  One of Bligh's lieutenants was a former shipmate named Fletcher Christian.  They became the leading actors in one of the great sea yarns when Christian overpowered Bligh, took over the Bounty, threw the breadfruit trees into the South Pacific Ocean, and disappeared into oblivion. 

Bligh survived by sailing the ship's open longboat 3,000 miles (4,830km) to the East Indies, where he hitched a ride back to England on a Dutch vessel.  Later he was given command of another ship and sent to Tahiti to get more breadfruit.  Although he succeeded on this second attempt, the whole operation went for naught when the West Indies slaves refused to eat the strange fruit of the new tree, preferring instead their old, familiar rice. 

Descendants of those trees still grow in the Caribbean, and the islanders prepare the head-size fruit in a number of ways. 

In Puerto Rico, tostones (fried plantain slices) accompany most meat, fish, or poultry dishes, while cassava escabeche is the most frequent compliment to Puerto Rican barbecued chicken and roast pig.  But pana, or breadfruit, is also served here as in the rest of the region in similar ways. 

Main Courses

Stews loom large in the Puerto Rican diet, and none larger than asopao, a hearty gumbo made with either chicken or shellfish.  Every Puerto Rican chef has his or her own recipe.  Asopao de pollo (chicken stew) takes a whole chicken, which is then flavored with spices such as oregano, garlic, and paprika, along with salt pork, cured ham, green peppers, chili peppers, onions, cilantro, olives, tomatoes, chorizo, and pimientos.  For a final touch, green peas might be added.  Seafood lovers will adore versions using lobster or shrimp.  The most basic version simply uses rice and pigeon peas, a healthy, more economical alternative that loses little on the flavor front.  Stews are usually cooked in a caldera (heavy kettle).  Another popular one is carne guisada puertorriqueña (Puerto Rican beef stew).  The ingredients that flavor the chunks of beef vary according to the cook's whims or whatever happens to be in the larder.  These might include green peppers, sweet chili peppers, onions, garlic, cilantro, potatoes, olives stuffed with pimientos, or capers.  Seeded raisins may be added on occasion. 

While mofongo is a dependable side dish, it also takes center stage at many meals when it is formed into a hollow casserole and stuffed with seafood (shrimp, lobster, or the catch of the day) or chicken in tomato sauce.  It's called mofongorelleno.  Pastelones de carne, or meat pies, are the staple of many Puerto Rican dinners.  Salt pork and ham are often used for the filling and are cooked in a caldero (small cauldron).  This medley of meats and spices is covered with a pastry top and baked. 

Other typical main dishes include fried beefsteak with onions (carne frita con cebolla), veal (ternera) a la parmesana, and roast leg of pork, fresh ham, lamb, or veal a la criolla.  These roasted meats are cooked in the Creole style, flavored with adobo.  Chicharrónes—fried pork with the crunchy skin left on top for added flavor—is very popular, especially around Christmastime.  Puerto Ricans also like such dishes as seso sempanados (breaded calf's brains), riñones guisados (calf's kidney stew), and lengua rellena (stuffed beef tongue).  Other meats tend to be slowly grilled or sautéed until tender. 

Both chicken and fish are important ingredients made dozens of different ways.  Two common ways of serving them are al ajillo, in a garlic sauce, or a la criolla, in a tomato sauce with pepper, onions, and Spanish olives.  Puerto Ricans adore chicken, which they flavor with various spices and seasonings.  Arroz con pollo (chicken with rice) is the most popular chicken dish on the island, and it was brought long ago to the U.S. mainland.  Other favorite preparations include pollo al kerez (chicken in sherry), pollo en agridulce (sweet-and-sour chicken), and pollito sasados a la parrilla (broiled chicken). 

A festive island dish is lechónasado, or barbecued pig, which is usually cooked for a party of 12 to 15.  It is traditional for picnics and alfresco parties; one can sometimes catch the aroma of this dish wafting through the palm trees, a smell that must have been familiar to the Taíno peoples.  The pig is often basted with jugo de naranja agria (sour orange juice) and achiote coloring and then rubbed with garlic and adobe.  Slow roasted, lechón done right is juicy and just melts in the mouth.  Green plantains are peeled and roasted over hot stones, then served with the barbecued pig.  A sour garlic sauce called aji-li-mojili, made from garlic, whole black peppercorns, sweet peppers, lime, and olive oil, sometimes accompanies the pig.  Pasteles, a kind of Puerto Rican turnover, are also popular at Christmas.  A paste is formed from either plantain or yucca, which is then filled with seasoned beef or chicken.  After it is shaped into a rectangle, it is wrapped in plantain leaves and tied up.  They are then boiled and unwrapped, served steaming hot. 

Local cuisine relies on seafood, with red snapper (chillo) and dolphinfish (dorado) most likely to be offered as fresh catches of the day.  Shellfish, especially conch (carrucho), squid, and octopus, are also frequently used in dishes.  Mojo isleno is a delicious oil-and-vinegar-based sauce from the south-coast town of Patillas that is poured on fresh grilled fish.  The sauce is made with olives and olive oil, onions, pimientos, capers, tomato sauce, vinegar, garlic, and bay leaves.  Caribbean lobster is usually the most expensive item on any menu, followed by shrimp.  We find it lighter but just as sweet as the more common Maine lobster.  Puerto Ricans often grill shrimp (camarones) and serve them in an infinite number of ways.  Another popular shellfish dish is jueyes (crabs), which are either boiled or served inside fried turnovers. 

Puerto Ricans love salted codfish, with codfish fritters being one of the more popular beach snacks, always available during festivals.  A better way to experience this staple is serenate de bacalao, in which the cod is served in an olive oil and vinegar dressing with tomato, onion, and avocado.  It's a popular Easter dish. 

Many tasty egg dishes are served, especially tortilla española (Spanish omelet), cooked with finely chopped onions, cubed potatoes, and olive oil. 

The Aroma of Coffee

Puerto Ricans usually end a meal with a small cup of the strong, aromatic coffee grown here, either black or with a dash of warm milk.  Although the island is not as associated with coffee as Colombia or even the Dominican Republic, it has been producing some of the world's best for more than 300 years.  It's been known as the "coffee of popes and kings" since it was exported to Europe's royal courts and the Vatican in the 19th century, and today Puerto Rico continues to produce some of the world's tastiest. 

Coffee has several degrees of quality, of course, the lowest-ranking one being café de primera, which is typically served at the ordinary family table.  The top category is called café super premium.  Only a handful of three coffees in the world belong to super-premium class: Along with Puerto Rico's homegrown Alto Grande, coffee beans sought by coffee connoisseurs around the world include Blue Mountain coffee of Jamaica and Kona coffee from Hawaii. 

A wave of boutique high-quality local coffee brands have popped up more recently, including Yauco Selecto, with a new generation of farmers catering to the booming worldwide demand for gourmet coffee.  Alto Grande Super Premium has been grown in Lares since 1839, in the central mountains known as one of the finest coffee growing areas in the world.  Yacuo Selecto, grown in Yauco on the southern slope of the Cordillera Central, also traces its roots to this period when island coffee was courted by royalty.  Other coffee-growing towns are Maricao, in the western mountains, and Adjuntas, at the island's heart. 

You can ask for your brew puya (unsweetened), negrito con azúcar (black and sweetened), cortao (black with a drop of milk), or con leche (with milk). 

Rum: Kill-Devil or Whiskey-Belly Vengeance

Rum is the national drink of Puerto Rico, and you can buy it in almost any shade.  Because the island is the world's leading rum producer, it's little wonder that every Puerto Rican bartender worthy of the profession likes to concoct his or her own favorite rum libation.  You can call for Puerto Rican rum in many mixed drinks such as rum Collins, rum sour, and rum screwdriver.  The classic sangria, which is prepared in Spain with dry red wine, sugar, orange juice, and other ingredients, is often given a Puerto Rican twist with a hefty dose of rum. 

Today's version of rum bears little resemblance to the raw, grainy beverage consumed by the renegades and pirates of Spain.  Christopher Columbus brought sugar cane, from which rum is distilled, to the Caribbean on his second voyage to the New World, and in almost no time rum became the regional drink. 

It is believed that Ponce de León introduced rum to Puerto Rico during his governorship, which began in 1508.  Under his reign, landholders planted large tracts with sugar cane.  From Puerto Rico and other West Indian islands, rum was shipped to colonial America, where it lent itself to such popular and hair-raising 18th-century drinks as Kill-Devil and Whiskey-Belly Vengeance.  After the United States became a nation, rum was largely displaced as the drink of choice by whiskey, distilled from grain grown on the American plains. 

It took almost a century before Puerto Rico's rum industry regained its former vigor.  This occurred during a severe whiskey shortage in the United States at the end of World War II.  By the 1950s, sales of rum had fallen off again, as more and different kinds of liquor had become available on the American market. 

The local brew had been a questionable drink because of inferior distillation methods and quality.  Recognizing this problem, the Puerto Rican government drew up rigid standards for producing, blending, and aging rum.  Rum factories were outfitted with the most modern and sanitary equipment, and sales figures (encouraged by aggressive marketing campaigns) began to climb. 

No one will ever agree on what "the best" rum is in the Caribbean.  There are just too many of them to sample.  Some are so esoteric as to be unavailable in your local liquor store.  But if popular tastes mean anything, then Puerto Rican rums, especially Bacardi, head the list.  There are 24 different rums from Puerto Rico sold in the United States under 11 brand names—not only Bacardi, but also Ron Bocoy, Ronrico, Don Q, and many others.  Locals tend to like Don Q the best. 

Puerto Rican rums are generally light, gold, or dark.  Usually white or silver in color, the biggest seller is light in body and dry in taste.  Its subtle flavor and delicate aroma make it ideal for many mixed drinks, including the mojito, daiquiri, rum Collins, rum Mary, and rum and tonic or soda.  It also goes with almost any fruit juice, or on the rocks with a slice of lemon or lime.  Gold or amber rum is aromatic and full-bodied in taste.  Aging in charred oak casks adds color to the rum. 

Gold rums are usually aged longer for a deeper and mellower flavor than light rums.  They are increasingly popular on the rocks, straight up, or in certain mixed drinks in which extra flavor is desired—certainly in the famous piña colada, rum and Coke, or eggnog. 

Dark rum is full-bodied with a deep, velvety, smooth taste and a complex flavor.  It can be aged for as long as 15 years.  You can enjoy it on the rocks, with tonic or soda, or in mixed drinks when you want the taste of rum to stand out. 

When to Go

Climate

Puerto Rico has one of the most unvarying climates in the world.  Temperatures year-round range from 75° to 85°F (24°–29°C).  The island is wettest and hottest in August, averaging 81°F (27°C) and 7 inches (18cm) of rain.  San Juan and the northern coast seem to be cooler and wetter than Ponce and the southern coast.  The coldest weather is in the high altitudes of the Cordillera, the site of Puerto Rico's lowest recorded temperature—39°F (4°C). 

The Hurricane Season

The hurricane season, the curse of Puerto Rican weather, lasts—officially, at least—from June 1 to November 30.  But there's no cause for panic.  In general, satellite forecasts give adequate warnings so that precautions can be taken.  The peaks of the season, when historically the most damaging storms are formed and hit the island, occur in August and December. 

If you're heading to Puerto Rico during the hurricane season, you can call your local branch of the National Weather Service (listed in your phone directory under the U.S. Department of Commerce) for a weather forecast. 

It'll cost 95¢ per query, but you can get information about the climate conditions in any city you plan to visit by calling   800/WEATHER (932-8437).  When you're prompted, enter your Visa or MasterCard account number, and then punch in the name of any of 1,000 cities worldwide whose weather is monitored by the Weather Channel (www.weather.com). 

The "Season"

In Puerto Rico, hotels charge their highest prices during the peak winter period from mid-December to mid-April, when visitors fleeing from cold northern climates flock to the islands.  Winter is the driest season along the coasts but can be wet in mountainous areas. 

If you plan to travel in the winter, make reservations 2 to 3 months in advance.  At certain hotels it's almost impossible to book accommodations for Christmas and the month of February. 

A second tourism high season, especially for hotels and destinations outside San Juan, does take place in July, when most islanders take vacation. 

Saving Money in the Off Season

While winter rates are still higher than summer rates at most properties, Puerto Rico is slowly becoming a year-round destination.  Many hotel properties are moving towards a pricing scheme of charging a weekday and a weekend rate. 

However, there still is an off season, which runs from late spring to late fall, when temperatures in the mid-80s Fahrenheit (about 29°C) prevail throughout most of the region.  Trade winds ensure comfortable days and nights, even in accommodations without air-conditioning.  Although the noonday sun may raise the temperature to around 90°F (32°C), cool breezes usually make the morning, late afternoon, and evening more comfortable here than in many parts of the U.S. mainland. 

Dollar for dollar, you'll spend less money by renting a summer house or fully equipped unit in Puerto Rico than you would on Cape Cod, Fire Island, Laguna Beach, or the coast of Maine. 

The off season in Puerto Rico—roughly from May through November (rate schedules vary from hotel to hotel)—is still a summer sale, with many hotel rates slashed from 20% to 40%.  It's a bonanza for cost-conscious travelers, especially families who like to go on vacations together.  In the chapters ahead, we'll spell out in dollars the specific amounts hotels charge during the off season. 

But the off season has been shrinking of late.  Many hotels, particularly outside of San Juan, will charge full price during the month of July and summer holiday weekends.  Some properties, particularly guesthouses and small hotels in vacation towns such as Vieques and Rincón, have dispensed with off-season pricing altogether. 

In San Juan, a trend among smaller properties is to charge higher rates on weekends and holidays than during the week, rather than seasonal fluctuations in price. 

Other Off-Season Advantages

Although Puerto Rico may appear inviting in the winter to those who live in northern climates, there are many reasons your trip may be much more enjoyable if you go in the off season:

• After the winter hordes have left, a less-hurried way of life prevails.  You'll have a better chance to appreciate the food, culture, and local customs. 

• Swimming pools and beaches are less crowded—perhaps not crowded at all.  Again, some areas will be extremely crowded in July and on summer holiday weekends. 

• Year-round resort facilities are offered, often at reduced rates, which may include snorkeling, boating, and scuba diving. 

• To survive, resort boutiques often feature summer sales, hoping to clear the merchandise they didn't sell in February to accommodate stock they've ordered for the coming winter. 

• You can often appear without a reservation at a top restaurant and get a table for dinner, a table that in winter would have required a reservation far in advance.  Also, when waiters are less hurried, you get better service. 

• The endless waiting game is over: no waiting for a rental car (only to be told none is available), no long wait for a golf course tee time, and quicker access to tennis courts and watersports. 

• Some package-tour fares are as much as 20% lower, and individual excursion fares are also reduced between 5% and 10%. 

• All accommodations and flights are much easier to book. 

• Summer is an excellent time for family travel, not usually possible during the winter season. 

• The very best of Puerto Rican attractions remain undiminished in the off season—sea, sand, and surf, with lots of sunshine. 

Off-Season Disadvantages

Let's not paint too rosy a picture.  Although the advantages of off-season travel far outweigh the disadvantages, there are nevertheless drawbacks to traveling in summer:

• You might be staying at a construction site.  Hoteliers save their serious repairs and their major renovations until the off season, when they have fewer clients.  That means you might wake up early in the morning to the sound of a hammer. 

• Single tourists find the cruising better in winter, when there are more clients, especially the unattached.  Families predominate in summer, and there are fewer chances to meet fellow singles than in the winter months. 

• Services are often reduced.  In the peak of winter, everything is fully operational.  But in summer, many of the programs, such as watersports rentals, might be curtailed.  Also, not all restaurants and bars are fully operational at all resorts.  For example, for lack of business, certain gourmet or specialty dining rooms might be shut down until house count merits reopening them.  In all, the general atmosphere is more laid-back when a hotel or resort might also be operating with a reduced staff.  The summer staff will still be adequate to provide service for what's up and running. 

Holidays

Puerto Rico has many public holidays when stores, offices, and schools are closed: New Year's Day, January 6 (Three Kings Day), Washington's Birthday, Good Friday, Memorial Day, July 4th, Labor Day, Thanksgiving, Veterans Day, and Christmas, plus such local holidays as Constitution Day (July 25) and Discovery Day (Nov 19).  Remember, U.S. federal holidays are holidays in Puerto Rico, too. 

If you are bothered by crowds, avoid visiting beach towns outside San Juan, including Vieques and Culebra, during Easter week and late July, when they are filled with local vacationers. 

Puerto Rico Calendar of EventsJanuary

Three Kings Day, islandwide.  On this traditional gift-giving day in Puerto Rico, there are festivals with lively music, dancing, parades, puppet shows, caroling troubadours, and traditional feasts.  January 6. 

San Sebastián Street Festival, Calle San Sebastián, in Old San Juan.  Nightly celebrations with music, processions, crafts, and traditional foods, as well as graphic arts and handicraft exhibitions.  For more information, call   787/721-2400.  Mid-January. 

February

San Blas Half Marathon, Coamo.  International and local runners compete in a challenging 13-mile (21km) half-marathon in the hilly south-central town of Coamo.  Call Delta Phi Delta Fraternity (  787/509-6375) or go to the webpage www.maratonsanblas.com.  Early February. 

Coffee Harvest Festival, Maricao.  Folk music, a parade of floats, traditional foods, crafts, and demonstrations of coffee preparation in Maricao, a 1-hour drive east of Mayagüez.  For more information, call   787/838-2290 or 787/267-5536.  Second week of February. 

Carnival Ponceño, Ponce.  The island's Carnival celebrations feature float parades, dancing, and street parties.  One of the most vibrant festivities is held in Ponce, known for its masqueraders wearing brightly painted horned masks.  For more information, call   787/284-4141.  Mid-February. 

Casals Festival, Performing Arts Center in San Juan.  Sanjuaneros and visitors alike eagerly look forward to the annual Casals Festival, the Caribbean's most celebrated cultural event.  When renowned cellist Casals died in Puerto Rico in 1973 at the age of 97, the Casals Festival was 16 years old and attracting the same class of performers who appeared at the Pablo Casals Festival in France, founded by Casals after World War II.  When he moved to Puerto Rico in 1957 with his wife, Marta Casals Istomin (former artistic director of the John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts), he founded not only this festival but also the Puerto Rico Symphony Orchestra to foster musical development on the island. 

Ticket prices for the Casals Festival range from $15 to $75.  A 50% discount is offered to students, people 60 and older, and persons with disabilities.  Tickets are available through the Luis A. Ferré Performing Arts Center (  787/620-4444), Ticket Center (  787/792-5000), or the Puerto Rico Symphonic Orchestra in San Juan (  787/721-7727). 

Information is also available from the Casals Festival (www.festcasalspr.gobierno.pr;   787/721-8370).  The festivities take place from late February to early March. 

March

Emancipation Day, islandwide.  Commemoration of the emancipation of Puerto Rico's slaves in 1873, held at various venues.  March 22. 

April

Saborea, El Escambrón Beach, San Juan.  A weekend culinary extravaganza every April sponsored by the Puerto Rico tourism board, Saborea brings together island flavors and chefs and draws global culinary stars.  Call   787/751-8001, or visit www.saboreapuertorico.com.  April 6-7, 2013. 

Good Friday and Easter, islandwide.  Celebrated with colorful ceremonies and processions.  April 8 to 10, 2011. 

José de Diego Day, islandwide.  Commemoration of the birthday of José de Diego, the patriot, lawyer, writer, orator, and political leader who was the first president of the Puerto Rico House of Representatives under U.S. rule.  April 17. 

Sugar Harvest Festival, San Germán.  This festival marks the end of the island's sugar harvest, with live music, crafts, and traditional foods, as well as exhibitions of sugar-cane plants and past and present harvesting techniques.  Late April. 

May

Condado Culinary Fest, Av.  Ashford, Condado.  Restaurants and cafes along oceanfront drive take the tables and chairs outside and offer special promotions on culinary creations and libations.  There's music, art and other entertainment along the way.  Very similar to the SoFo festival in Old San Juan and a very good time.  Call San Juan Department of Tourism & Culture at   787/721-0169 or 787/722-7079. 

Puerto Rican Danza Week (Semana de la "Danza" Puertorriqueña), Convento de los Dominicos, Old San Juan.  This week commemorates what is, perhaps, the most expressive art form in the Puerto Rican culture: danza music and dance.  Throughout Danza Week, live performances and conferences are held at Convento de los Dominicos's indoor patio.  The building is located on Old San Juan's Cristo Street.  For information, call   800/866-7827 or 787/721-2400.  Second week of May.

Heineken JazzFest, San Juan.  The annual jazz celebration is staged at ParqueSixto Escobar.  Each year a different jazz theme is featured.  The open-air pavilion is in a scenic oceanfront location in the Puerta de Tierra section of San Juan, near the Caribe Hilton.  For more information, check out the website www.prheinekenjazz.com, which has schedules and links to buy tickets and package information.  End of May through the beginning of June. 

June

San Juan Bautista Day, islandwide.  Puerto Rico's capital and other cities celebrate the island's patron saint with weeklong festivities.  At midnight, sanjuaneros and others walk backward into the sea (or nearest body of water) three times to renew good luck for the coming year.  San Juan hosts several events, from music fests to sports events, for several days before and after the holiday.  June 24. 

Aibonito Flower Festival, at Road 721 next to the City Hall Coliseum, in the central mountain town of Aibonito.  This annual flower-competition festival features acres of lilies, anthuriums, carnations, roses, gardenias, and begonias.  For more information, call   787/735-3871.  Last week in June and first week in July. 

July

Luis Muñoz Rivera's Birthday, islandwide.  A birthday celebration commemorating Luis Muñoz Rivera (1829–1916), statesman, journalist, poet, and resident commissioner in Washington, D.C. July 20. 

El Gigante Marathon, Adjuntas.  This 9 1/4-mile (15km) race starts at Puerta Bernasal and finishes at Plaza Pública.  For more information, call   787/829-3310.  Sunday before July 25.  It will take place July 2 1, 2013. 

Loíza Carnival.  This annual folk and religious ceremony honors Loíza's patron saint, John (Santiago) the Apostle.  Colorful processions take place, with costumes, masks, and bomba dancers (the bomba has a lively Afro-Caribbean dance rhythm).  This jubilant celebration reflects the African and Spanish heritage of the region.  For more information, call   787/876-1040.  Late July through early August. 

August

Cuadragésimo Cuarto Torneo de Pesca Interclub del Caribe, Cangrejos Yacht Club.  This international blue-marlin fishing tournament features crafts, music, local delicacies, and other activities.  For more information, call   787/791-1015.  Mid-August. 

International Billfish Tournament, at Club Náutico, San Juan.  This is one of the premier game-fishing tournaments and the longest consecutively held billfish tournament in the world.  Fishermen from many countries angle for blue marlin that can weigh up to 900 pounds (408kg).  For specific dates and information, call   787/722-0177.  Late August to early September. 

October

La Raza Day (Columbus Day), islandwide.  This day commemorates Columbus's landing in the New World.  October 10. 

National Plantain Festival, Corozal.  This annual festivity involves crafts, paintings, agricultural products, exhibitions, and sale of plantain dishes; neuvatrova music and folk ballet are performed.  For more information, call   787/859-3060.  Mid-October. 

November

Start of Baseball Season, throughout the island.  Six Puerto Rican professional clubs compete from November to January.  Professionals from North America also play here.  The city's Hiram Bithorn Stadium is also a frequent host for Major League Baseball series; in 2010, it was host to several New York Mets–Florida Marlins games. 

Festival of Puerto Rican Music, San Juan.  An annual classical and folk music festival, one of its highlights is a cuatro-playing contest. ( A cuatro is a guitarlike instrument with 10 strings.)  For more information, call   787/721-5274.  First week in November. 

Jayuya Indian Festival, Jayuya.  This fiesta features the culture and tradition of the island's original inhabitants, the Taíno Indians, and their music, food, and games.  More than 100 artisans exhibit and sell their works.  There is also a Miss Taíno Indian Pageant.  For more information, call   787/828-2020.  Second week of November. 

Puerto Rico Discovery Day, islandwide.  This day commemorates the "discovery" by Columbus in 1493 of the already inhabited island of Puerto Rico.  Columbus is thought to have come ashore at the northwestern municipality of Aguadilla, although the exact location is unknown.  November 19. 

December

Old San Juan's White Christmas Festival, Old San Juan.  Special musical and artistic presentations take place in stores, with window displays.  December 1 through January 12. 

Puerto Rico Heritage Artisans Fair, San Juan.  The best and largest artisan fair on the island features more than 100 artisans who turn out to exhibit and sell their wares.  The fair includes shows for adults and children, and traditional food and drink.  It's held at the beautiful Luis Muñoz Rivera Park in Puerta de Tierra and is sponsored by the government.  December 12 through 13. 

Las Mañanitas, Ponce.  A religious procession that starts out from Lolita Tizol Street and moves toward the city's Catholic church, led by mariachis singing songs to honor Our Lady of Guadalupe, the city's patron saint.  The lead song is the traditional Mexican birthday song, Las Mañanitas.  There's a 6am Mass. For more information, contact Ponce City Hall (  787/284-4141).  December 12. 

Lighting of the Town of Bethlehem, between San Cristóbal Fort and Plaza San Juan Bautista in Old San Juan.  This is the time that the most dazzling Christmas lights go on, and many islanders themselves drive into San Juan to see this dramatic lighting, the finest display of lights in the Caribbean at Christmas.  During the Christmas season. ( See www.sanjuan.pr for information on days and times.) 

Hatillo Masks Festival, Hatillo.  This tradition, celebrated since 1823, represents the biblical story of King Herod's ordering the death of all infant boys in an attempt to kill the baby Jesus.  Men with colorful masks and costumes represent the soldiers, who run or ride through the town from early morning, looking for the children.  There are food, music, and crafts exhibits in the town square.  For more information, call   787/898-4040.  December 28. 

SoFo Culinary Festival, Old San Juan.  Held twice a year, in the summer and autumn, during which restaurants on La Fortaleza Street open their doors to offer food and live music.  Mid-August and mid-December.  Call San Juan Department of Tourism & Culture at   787/721-0169. 

Year-Round Festivals

In addition to the individual events described above, Puerto Rico has two yearlong series of special events. 

Many of Puerto Rico's most popular events are during the Patron Saint Festivals (fiestas patronales) in honor of the patron saint of each municipality.  The festivities, held in each town's central plaza, include religious and costumed processions, games, local food, music, and dance. 

At Festival La Casita, prominent Puerto Rican musicians, dance troupes, and orchestras perform; puppet shows are staged; and painters and sculptors display their works.  It happens every Saturday at Puerto Rico Tourism's La "Casita" Tourism Information Center, Plaza Darsenas, across from Pier 1, Old San Juan. 

For more information about all these events, contact the Puerto Rico Tourism Company (  800/866-7827 or 787/721-2400), La Princesa Building, Paseo La Princesa 2, Old San Juan, PR 00902. 

For an exhaustive list of events beyond those listed here, check <http://events.frommers.com>, where you'll find a searchable, up-to-the-minute roster of what's happening in cities all over the world. 

Responsible Travel

Puerto Rico is still struggling to find a balance between development and protecting its beautiful natural resources, a none-too-easy task on a small tropical island of 4 million residents. 

Finding the right path towards sustainable development, however, is now a core concern of the tourism industry, government officials, and community and environmental groups.  Gone are the days of uncontrolled beachfront development, constructing on flood zones, and allowing industry to flout environmental rules.  Yet, there's a fierce debate over the specifics of the evolving sustainable development vision between environmental groups and development interests. 

All sides, however, agree that protecting Puerto Rico's natural resources is essential to future prosperity.  Hotels, restaurants, and tour operators have all taken note, and have introduced water conservation measures, green gardening techniques, increased use of locally grown produce, and guided tours given with a deep knowledge and respect of island culture and history.  Water conservation, embracing greener forms of energy production, and protection of the island's coast and waterways are all current drives by broad sectors of island societies. 

Visitors can help by visiting and supporting island nature reserves and beaches.  Also, stay at a resort and play golf at a course that takes water-conserving gardening measures and recycles its waste water.  Take a tour with a company that uses best practices like focusing on local culture and the environment and economically benefits the community, like Acampa Nature Adventure Tours (www.acampapr.com).  For more information, contact the Puerto Rico Hotel & Tourism Association (www.prhta.org), which is a member of the World Heritage Alliance (which promotes such cultural and environmental tourism) and promotes green practices by industry members.  Another source is the government Puerto Rico Tourism Company (www.prtourism.com). 

The Puerto Rico chapter of the Sierra Club (www.puertorico.sierraclub.org) is a great resource for environmental information on Puerto Rico, including marine corals, sea turtles, and endangered birds, and delivers up-to-the-minute news on current environmental battles, such as the drive to protect a miles-long stretch of beachfront between Luquillo and Fajardo known as the Northeast Ecological Corridor. 

The website also has a large excursions and events section with information on fairs, turtle and rare Puerto Rican parrot trips, and visits to nature reserves.  There is something going on every weekend. 

Most of the site is in Spanish, except for the excellent section on the ongoing battle to preserve the Northeast Ecological Corridor (www.sierraclub.org/corridor), a nesting ground for endanger sea turtles that stretches across 7 miles of virgin white beachfront in the shadow of El Yunque Rainforest. 

Animal lovers can give some love and help find new homes for dogs and cats rescued from the streets or abusive homes through the Save a Gato (cats; www.saveagato.org) or Save a Sato (dogs; www.saveasato.org) foundations.  The groups are looking for volunteers to transport pets to new homes by taking them on flights back home.  You can also adopt yourself, or just contribute to the groups' rescue efforts.  As the proud padre of a bona-fide sato and gato, I'll argue they are the most loveable pets in world. 

More sustainable Travel Resources

In addition to the resources for Puerto Rico listed above, the following websites provide valuable wide-ranging information on sustainable travel. 

• Responsible Travel (www.responsibletravel.com) is a great source of sustainable travel ideas; the site is run by a spokesperson for ethical tourism in the travel industry.  Sustainable Travel International (www.sustainabletravelinternational.org) promotes ethical tourism practices, and manages an extensive directory of sustainable properties and tour operators around the world. 

• Carbonfund (www.carbonfund.org), TerraPass (www.terrapass.org), and Cool Climate (<http://coolclimate.berkeley.edu>) provide info on "carbon offsetting," or offsetting the greenhouse gas emitted during flights. 

• Greenhotels (www.greenhotels.com) recommends green-rated member hotels around the world that fulfill the company's stringent environmental requirements.  Environmentally Friendly Hotels (www.environmentallyfriendlyhotels.com) offers more green accommodation ratings. 

• Volunteer International (www.volunteerinternational.org) has a list of questions to help you determine the intentions and the nature of a volunteer program.  For general info on volunteer travel, visit www.volunteerabroad.org and www.idealist.org. 
Chapter 3: Suggested Puerto Rico Itineraries

Puerto Rico may be a small island, but with its diverse geography and abundance of natural and cultural attractions, visitors rarely see all it has to offer, which takes some doing.  You won't find a more vibrant city than San Juan, with its cutting-edge culinary and clubbing scenes; and its beaches (and year-round temperatures) put those of Miami and South Florida to shame.  Puerto Rico is always hot, and it has those postcard perfect white-sand beaches lined with palm trees and sparkling blue sea that are the real draw for any visit to the Caribbean. 

You can explore Old San Juan; discover that unspoiled beach town or remote mountain village; or go big-wave surfing, spelunking, or deep sea fishing.  There are world-class performances and thriving locals arts and music scenes, as well as the most varied dining of any Caribbean destination.  With all that going on, it will take some planning to get the most out of your stay, no matter how long that is. 

We list a "Puerto Rico in 1 Week" tour and a "Puerto Rico in 2 Weeks" tour, for those with more time.  Of course these itineraries can also be customized for shorter stays and special interests.  If you've been to Puerto Rico before and have already visited San Juan and El Yunque, you'll find a number of new ideas, such as the pastoral Panoramic Route, the lure of the Spanish Virgin Islands, and the beaches of the west coast, from Guánica in the southwest through Isabela in the northwest. 

Puerto Rico has an advanced highway system, but if you go the least bit off the beaten path (and sometimes you won't have much choice, if you want to see anything other than urban centers), you will venture on to some narrow, swooping rural highways offering difficult driving conditions.  Take along a detailed road map, and remember to blow your horn as you turn dangerous curves in the mountains. 

The itineraries that follow take you to some major attractions with some surprise discoveries.  The pace may be a bit breathless, so skip a town or sight occasionally for some chill-out time—after all, you're on vacation. 

One thing to keep in mind, you can base yourself out of San Juan for longer time periods, seeing much of the island in separate day trips from the capital.  See chapter 1, "The Best of Puerto Rico," for some ideas. 

Puerto Rico is a natural travel hub to the Caribbean, and too many visitors skip it altogether en route to other sun-bleached spots.  There are, however, Caribbean connoisseurs who have combined their vacations with a few day layovers in San Juan for decades, and now love the city like an old friend, having come to know it a bit better over time.  This is also another great way to experience Puerto Rico. 

So remember, use any of these itineraries as jumping-off points for your own custom-made trip that more closely matches your interests or schedule. 

The Regions in Brief

For a small island, Puerto Rico is a big place, with astounding geographic diversity squeezed into its 110×35-mile (177×56km) landmass.  Beautiful beaches encircle its coastline, which fronts both the rough Atlantic, making for among the biggest waves in the region, and the tranquil waters of the Caribbean Sea, a sailor's and diver's paradise. 

Puerto Ricans are great hosts, eager to entertain and intensely proud of their island's natural beauty, their culture, and their achievements as a people. 

Note About Maps

This guide contains dozens of maps of varying sizes and complexity.  If you find it hard to read a map on your device, use the zoom function to enlarge.  You can also download and/or printout PDFs of all of the maps in this guide.  Go to  www.frommers.com/go/ebookmaps and click on the title of your guide. 

Puerto Rico

San Juan

The largest and best-preserved complex of Spanish colonial architecture in the Caribbean, Old San Juan (founded in 1521) is the oldest capital city under the U.S. flag.  Once a lynchpin of Spanish dominance in the Caribbean, it has three major fortresses, miles of solidly built stone ramparts, a charming collection of antique buildings, and a modern business center.  The city's economy is the most stable and solid in all of Latin America. 

San Juan is the site of the official home and office of the governor of Puerto Rico (La Fortaleza), the 16th-century residence of Ponce de León's family, and several of the oldest places of Christian worship in the Western Hemisphere.  Its bars, restaurants, shops, and nightclubs attract an animated group of fans.  In recent years, the old city has become surrounded by densely populated modern buildings, including an ultramodern airport, which makes San Juan one of the most dynamic cities in the West Indies. 

The Northwest: Arecibo, Rio Camuy, Rincon & More

A fertile area with many rivers bringing valuable water for irrigation from the high mountains of the Cordillera, the northwest also offers abundant opportunities for sightseeing.  The region's districts include the following:

Aguadilla Christopher Columbus landed near Aguadilla during his second voyage to the New World in 1493.  Today the town has a busy airport, fine beaches, and a growing tourism-based infrastructure.  It is also the center of Puerto Rico's lace-making industry, a craft imported here many centuries ago by immigrants from Spain, Holland, and Belgium. 

Aricebo Located on the northern coastline a 2-hour drive west of San Juan, Arecibo was originally founded in 1556.  Although little remains of its original architecture, the town is well known to physicists and astronomers around the world because of the radar/radio-telescope that fills a concave depression between six of the region's hills.  Equal in size to 13 football fields and operated jointly by the National Science Foundation and Cornell University, it studies the shape and formation of the galaxies by deciphering radio waves from space. 

Rincon Named after the 16th-century landowner Don Gonzalo Rincón, who donated its site to the poor of his district, the tiny town of Rincón is famous throughout Puerto Rico for its world-class surfing and beautiful beaches.  The lighthouse that warns ships and boats away from dangerous offshore reefs is one of the most powerful on Puerto Rico. 

Rio Camuy Cave Park Located near Arecibo, this park's greatest attraction is underground, where a network of rivers and caves provides some of the most enjoyable spelunking in the world.  At its heart lies one of the largest known underground rivers.  Aboveground, the park covers 300 acres (121 hectares). 

Utuado Small and nestled amid the hills of the interior, Utuado is famous as the center of the hillbilly culture of Puerto Rico.  Some of Puerto Rico's finest mountain musicians have come from Utuado and mention the town in many of their ballads.  The surrounding landscape is sculpted with caves and lushly covered with a variety of tropical plants and trees. 

Dorado & the North Coast

Dorado, directly east of San Juan, is actually a term for a total of six white-sand beaches along the northern coast, reached by a series of winding roads.  Dorado is the island's oldest resort town, home to storied golf courses, casinos, and resorts, the oldest of which is being transformed into a sumptuous Ritz Reserve property that perfectly suits its coastal plantation setting. 

Several large hotel resorts have opened along the northwest of San Juan all the way down through Mayagüez.  Rincón, Aguada, Aguadilla, and Isabella all have large hotels.  The area offers beautiful beaches, natural wonders, and interesting attractions such as the Arecibo Observatory and the Río Camuy Cave Park. 

The Northeast: El Yunque, a Nature Reserve &Fajardo

East of San Juan (see above) is a beautiful world of rain forest, stunning coastal waters, nature reserves, and posh resorts.  Several world-class golf courses are located here, and there are ample sailing and watersports activities.  It's home to both a rainforest and a bioluminescent bay, not to mention one of the largest leatherback turtle nesting areas on U.S. soil. 

El Yunque The rainforest in the Luquillo Mountains, 25 miles (40km) east of San Juan, El Yunque is a favorite escape from the capital.  Teeming with plant and animal life, it is a sprawling tropical forest (actually a national forest) whose ecosystems are strictly protected.  Some 100 billion gallons of rainwater fall here each year, allowing about 250 species of trees and flowers to flourish. 

Fajardo There are still small and sleepy areas of this town, founded as a supply depot for the many pirates who plied the nearby waters, but it has also grown up and is home to world-class resorts and attractions.  There are several marinas in town, and the waters off its coast are a sailor's paradise, with beautiful offshore cays and coral reef. 

Las Cabezas Nature Reserve About an hour's drive from San Juan, this is an important and beautiful coastal natural reserve.  Established in 1991 on 316 acres (128 hectares) of forest, it has mangrove swamp, offshore cays, coral reefs, freshwater lagoons, and a rare, bioluminescent bay—a representative sampling of virtually every ecosystem on Puerto Rico.  There are a visitor center, a 19th-century lighthouse (El Faro) that still works, and ample opportunity to forget the pressures of urban life. 

El Conquistador Resort & Golden Door Spa in Fajardo near Las Croabas, a fishing village on the northeastern tip of Puerto Rico's north coast, has a commanding perch overlooking the place where the Atlantic and Caribbean meet. 

It has a water park and private island paradise with sandy beaches and recreational facilities.  Challenging El Conquistador are the Rio Mar and Gran Melía properties in Río Grande, which are also top-of-the-line resorts. 

The Southwest: Ponce, Mayagüez, San German & More

One of Puerto Rico's most beautiful regions, the southwest is rich in local lore, civic pride, and natural wonders. 

Boqueron Famous for the beauty of its beach and the abundant birds and wildlife in a nearby forest reserve, this sleepy village is now ripe for large-scale tourism-related development.  During the early 19th century, the island's most-feared pirate, Roberto Cofresi, imperiled the residents' lives along the Puerto Rican coastline from a secret lair in a cave nearby. 

Cabo Rojo Established in 1772, Cabo Rojo reached the peak of its prosperity during the 19th century, when immigrants from around the Mediterranean, fleeing revolutions in their own countries, arrived to establish sugar-cane plantations.  Today, cattle graze peacefully on land originally devoted almost exclusively to sugar cane, and the area's many varieties of exotic birds draw bird-watchers from throughout North America.  Even the offshore waters are fertile; it's estimated that nearly half of all the fish consumed on Puerto Rico are caught in waters near Cabo Rojo. 

La Paraguera Named after a breed of snapper (pargos) that abounds in the waters nearby, La Parguera is a quiet coastal town best known for the phosphorescent waters of La Bahía Fosforescente (Phosphorescent Bay).  Here, sheltered from the waves of the sea, billions of plankton (luminescent dinoflagellates) glow dimly when they are disturbed by movements of the water.  The town comes alive on weekends, when crowds of young people from San Juan arrive to party the nights away.  Filling modest rooming houses, they temporarily change the texture of the town as bands produce loud sessions of salsa music. 

Mayagüez The third-largest city on Puerto Rico, Mayagüez lies on the middle of the west coast, with beautiful beach areas to its north and south.  While the city lacks its own beach, it is home to a few top quality hotels and has numerous attractions, including a zoo and botanical garden, so it's a good place to explore the west coast.  Its history of disaster—including a great fire in 1847 and a 1918 tsunami—has allowed the city to forge a unique architectural identity, a blending of the distinct styles in vogue during the different eras of rebuilding the city has undergone throughout its history.  Mayagüez recently underwent a facelift for the 2010 Central American & Caribbean Games which took place in the summer of 2010, which included new sports facilities, a sprucing up of public areas, and a new waterfront park.  The city has a renovated historic district surrounding Plaza Colón, its main square that has a monument to Christopher Columbus.  The town is known as the commercial and industrial capital of Puerto Rico's western sector and has a large University of Puerto Rico campus, which also helps spark the local cultural and entertainment scene. 

Ponce Puerto Rico's second-largest city, Ponce has always prided itself on its independence from the Spanish-derived laws and taxes that governed San Juan and the rest of the island.  Long-ago home of some of the island's shrewdest traders, merchants, and smugglers, it is enjoying a renaissance as citizens and visitors rediscover its unique cultural and architectural charms.  Located on Puerto Rico's southern coast, about 90 minutes by car from the capital, Ponce contains a handful of superb museums, one of the most charming main squares in the Caribbean, an ancient cathedral, dozens of authentically restored Colonial-era buildings, and a number of outlying mansions and villas that, at the time of their construction, were among the most opulent on the island. 

San Germán Located on the island's southwestern corner, small, sleepy, and historic San Germán was named after the second wife of Ferdinand of Spain, Germaine de Foix, whom he married in 1503.  San Germán's central church, Iglesia Porta Coeli, was built in 1606.  At one time, much of the populace was engaged in piracy, pillaging the ships that sailed off the nearby coastline.  The central area of this village is still sought out for its many reminders of the island's Spanish heritage and colonial charm.  With a large university and historic district, and its ideal location, the town is beginning to wake up to its tourism potential after a long sleep.  Several fine restaurants have opened recently, and the pace of renovation in the old district is on the rise. 

The Southeast: Palmas del Mar & More

Southeastern Puerto Rico has large-scale tourism developments but is also home to the island's wildest and least developed coastline, which runs from Guayama—which has one of the most picturesque town centers on the island—to the steep cliff sides of Yabucoa. 

Coamo Although today Coamo is a bedroom community for San Juan, originally it was the site of two different Taíno communities.  Founded in 1579, it now has a main square draped with bougainvillea and one of the best-known Catholic churches on Puerto Rico.  Even more famous, however, are the mineral springs whose therapeutic warm waters helped President Franklin D. Roosevelt during his recovery from polio.  The springs were also said to inspire the legend of the Fountain of Youth, which in turn set Ponce de León off on his vain search for them, leading him north to Florida. 

Humacao Because of its easy access to San Juan, this small, verdant inland town has increasingly become one of the capital's residential suburbs. 

Palmas del Mar This sprawling vacation and residential resort community outside Humacao has great golf, tennis, and other amenities.  The Equestrian Center at Palmas is the finest riding headquarters in Puerto Rico, with trails cutting through an old plantation and jungle along the beach. 

Called the "New American Riviera," Palmas del Mar has 3 miles (4.8km) of white-sand beaches and sprawls across 2,800 acres (1,133 hectares) of a former coconut plantation—now devoted to luxury living and the sporting life.  There are several different communities within Palmas, with both luxury homes and townhouses, as well as hotels and time share and vacation club rentals.  The resort is ideal for families and has a supervised summer activities program for children ages 5 to 12. 

The Offshore Islands: Culebra, Vieques & More

Few norteamericanos realize that Puerto Rico is host to two offshore island towns, which are among the most beautiful and, until recently, undiscovered locations in the Caribbean.  Neither Vieques nor Culebra has a traffic light or fast food restaurant, and neither is likely to get either soon, despite the world-class lodging and tourist facilities beginning to appear on both islands, which have become known as the Spanish Virgin Islands. 

Puerto Rico also has several islands within its jurisdiction that are intriguing nature reserves. 

Culebra & Vieques Located off the eastern coast, these two islands are among the most unsullied and untrammeled areas in the West Indies, even though Vieques is being belatedly discovered.  Come here for sun, almost no scheduled activities, fresh seafood, clear waters, sandy beaches, and teeming coral reefs.  Vieques is especially proud of its phosphorescent bay, Mosquito Bay, which is among the world's best.  Each island town has miles of coastline and sailing and snorkeling offshore.  Although the sister Spanish Virgin Islands remain laid back, they have become increasingly sophisticated in lodging and dining options, which today are top-notch. 

Mona Remote, uninhabited, and teeming with bird life, this barren island off the western coast is ringed by soaring cliffs and finely textured white-sand beaches.  The island has almost no facilities, so visitors seldom stay for more than a day of swimming and picnicking.  The surrounding waters are legendary for their dangerous eddies, undertows, and sharks. 

Much closer to the coast, just off Rincón, is Desecheo, another nature reserve with great beaches and great diving offshore. 

Cayo Santiago Lying off the southeastern coast is the small island of Cayo Santiago.  Home to a group of about two dozen scientists and a community of rhesus monkeys originally imported from India, the island is a medical experimentation center run by the U.S. Public Health Service.  Monkeys are studied in a "wild" but controlled environment.  They provide scientific researchers both insight into their behavior, as well as a source of experimental animals for medical research into such maladies as diabetes and arthritis.  Visitors are barred from Cayo Santiago, but you can often glimpse the resident primates if you're boating offshore. 

Puerto Rico in 1 Week

If you budget your time carefully, you can see some of the major highlights of Puerto Rico in just 1 week.  Naturally, most of your time will be spent in San Juan, the capital, but you'll also have time to visit El Yunque (a rainforest) and a beautiful beach, probably Luquillo right to the east.  There also will be time for days spent in Ponce, Puerto Rico's second city, the beautiful beaches of the southwest, the historic town of San Germán, and a side trip to an offshore island or the northwest coast.  Start: San Juan. 

Suggested Puerto Rico Itineraries

Days 1 & 2: San Juan ★★★

Take a flight that arrives in San Juan as early as possible on Day 1.  Check into your hotel and, if it's sunny, head for the pool or beach directly, stopping only for maybe a pick-me-up coffee and a pastry to go.  As surely as there will be hours of sunshine every day on your trip here, at certain times of the year, it can also cloud up for a few hours, so we always recommend enjoying the sun while it's shining (even if it's for an hour or so). 

After a quick swim and some sunshine, you can still spend the afternoon in Old San Juan, enjoying some sightseeing and shopping.  A 2-hour walking tour covers the important churches, forts, and other highlights.  Add another hour or so because you'll want to shop while you explore, and probably stop for refreshment—a rum drink or fresh fruit frappe—at one of the Old City's famous watering holes.  The city is also one of the shopping meccas of the Caribbean, with bargains galore, lots of local arts and crafts, and high-profile retail shops. 

Visit one of the area's many fine cafes and restaurants for an early dinner.  Then return to your hotel for an early evening and a well-deserved rest. 

On Day 2, with shopping and sightseeing behind you, prepare for a full day in the sun.  Most hotel and resort pools are great, and the beaches in San Juan are glorious white-sand, turquoise-water affairs.  For many visitors, that's why they came to San Juan in the first place.  Depending on the location of your hotel, the finest beaches are Condado Beach, Isla Verde Beach, and Ocean Park Beach.  Enjoy the watersports activities along the beaches of the Greater San Juan area.  See the "Diving, Fishing, Tennis & Other Pursuits" section.  Of course, there's nothing wrong with spending a day at the beach. 

Make it a point tonight to enjoy some of the nightlife of the capital, either bar-hopping, taking in the club or music scene, or going casino gambling.  San Juan is one of the nightlife capitals of the Caribbean.  There's likely a lot going on right around your hotel; Old San Juan, Condado, and Isla Verde are centers of activity.  See the "San Juan After Dark" section. 

Day 3: El Yunque ★★★ & Luquillo Beach ★★★

While still based in San Juan, drive east for 25 miles (40km) to El Yunque for a morning visit.  This 28,000-acre (11,331-hectare) attraction is the only tropical rainforest in the U.S. National Forest Service system.  Stop first at El Portal Tropical Forest Center for maps and guidance.  You're faced with a choice of hiking trails or else driving through.  Unless you engage in extensive hiking, you can see some of the forest's greatest beauty in time for lunch. 

After a visit to the rainforest, head north toward the town of Rio Grande and follow the signs to Luquillo Beach in the east.  There are many roadside signs and kiosks where you can enjoy a tasty but inexpensive lunch.  Shaded by tall coconut palms, the beach is crowded on weekends.  Surfing, kayaking, diving, and snorkeling are just some of the activities you can enjoy here, along with the golden sands of the beach itself.  There are also refreshment stands and a bathhouse, as well as toilets.  Return west to San Juan for a final night. 

Days 4 & 5: Ponce & the Southwest Coast ★★

Leave San Juan on the morning of Day 4 and drive 75 miles (121km) southwest to the city of Ponce, the island's "second city."  Take Route 1 south to Highway 52, and then continue south and west to Ponce, following the road signs.  Allow at least 1 1/2 hours for the drive.  Once in Ponce, check into a hotel for 2 nights. 

For orientation and to see the historic city, see "Walking Tour: Ponce" which includes a stopover at Parque de Bombas, the famous firehouse, on the city's gorgeous central plaza.  You can spend another few hours strolling through the historic downtown, visiting museums and cathedrals.  Another of Ponce's chief attractions, which can easily absorb 2 hours of your time, is the Museo de Arte de Ponce, which recently underwent a beautiful makeover. 

After some shopping and a local lunch in the old town, continue on one of the beach towns to the west, along Route 116: Guánica, La Parguera, or Boquerón.  Heading to the coast today will mean more time for fun in the sun the next day because Ponce has no real beach.  The only reason to stay in Ponce is to go out for a great meal and enjoy the entertainment at the Ponce Hilton, maybe squeezing in a round of golf or some pool time in the afternoon before dinner. ( If it's a weekend, there could be a concert at the nearby La Guancha, a public marina and boardwalk where harborfront restaurants serve up local treats and drinks.) 

Guánica's three lodging options—Copamarina Beach Resort, Mary Lee's By the Sea, and Hotel 1812—are among the best in their class for the region, and the town has seven spectacular beaches.  La Parguera and Boquerón are considered the "Cape Cod of Puerto Rico," with ample simple, clean lodging options, from small hotels to guesthouses. 

If you head out of Ponce on Day 4, you will also be able to spend 2 hours in the afternoon exploring the Guánica State Forest, the best-preserved subtropical ecosystem on the planet.  There are 750 plants and rare tree species that grow here, and many trails descend to the beautiful coastline.  Grab a fresh seafood meal at a local restaurant by your hotel, which may be accompanied by live music. 

On Day 5, you'll want to head to the beach because the finest on the island are all around you.  In Guánica, go to Caña Gorda or Playa Santa; your best bet in La Parguera is to take a boat to Mata La Gata islet offshore, while the public beach at Boquerón has tranquil waters, white sand, and a healthy grove of palm trees running behind the beach. 

In the afternoon, take a drive to the historic city of San Germán or farther on to Mayagüez.  Make sure to drive by El Faro de Cabo Rojo, a lighthouse at Puerto Rico's southernmost corner, for a look.  It's on a dramatic, blissfully isolated coastal perch. 

In San Germán, the town's major attractions, including Iglesia Porta Coeli and San Germán de Auxerre, are in its historic downtown, a beautiful array of Spanish colonial and turn-of-the-20th-century buildings.  If you go to Mayagüez, visit its beautiful downtown plaza, and then either its zoo or botanical gardens.  Have dinner before heading back to your hotel. 

Day 6: Mountain Retreat ★★

It's time to head up to the mountains, because you can't spend a week in Puerto Rico without spending a night at one of its country mountain retreats. 

You can visit the Toro Negro Forest Reserve, a 7,200-acre (2,914-hectare) park straddling the highest peak of the Cordillera Central, north of Ponce.  Visit Lake Guineo or take a hike to the beautiful Juanita waterfalls.  You should also have time to visit the other area forest reserve, Monte Estado State Forest in Maricao.  There are fine country inns near both reserves.  Most also offer traditional Puerto Rican fare.  Have a restful night in the clean mountain air. 

Day 7: Rincón & the Northwest ★★★

Get up early and begin driving up the west coast north of Mayagüez to Rincón.  After checking in at a hotel, hit one of the town's famous beaches.  If you surf or windsurf, today's the day for it because you are in the surfing capital of the Caribbean.  If it's summer, and the surf is down, then the snorkeling is great.  Most hotels and guesthouses have fine pools as well. 

If it's winter, consider spending some time whale-watching, as it's the season they breach right offshore.  It's also possible to rent a boat to take you to Desecheo Island (just offshore) or the much longer trek to Mona Island, some 40 miles off the coast.  Called "the Galápagos of the Caribbean," the island is inhabited by giant iguanas and three species of endangered sea turtles, among other rare plant, animal, and marine life. ( If you want to squeeze this in on a 1-week trip, it would be best to eliminate the mountain retreat or the second day in the southwest.) 

Rincón has a number of fine bars and restaurants, with great food and live entertainment.  So make sure you have a great meal and some fun on your final night.  And you'll want to be sure to watch the sun go down, which is a beautiful thing on the west coast of Puerto Rico. 

The following morning, you'll find that it's only a 98-mile (158km) drive northeast back to San Juan, the hub of all the island's major transportation.  The nearby Aguadilla airport, however, also has international flight service, so you could squeeze in some more beach time or another attraction (say the Camuy Caves or the Arecibo Observatory) if you do not have to return to San Juan before flying out. 

Puerto Rico in 2 Weeks

This tour, the longest in this chapter, is also the most recommended.  It encapsulates the very essence of the island—it's "Puerto Rico in a Nutshell."  Because of the island's small size, you can visit not only its three major cities (San Juan, Ponce, and Mayagüez) but also its greatest attraction, the El Yunque rainforest; its finest beach, Luquillo; its offshore islands, Vieques and Culebra; and even its most intriguing man-made attractions, such as the alien-hunting Arecibo Observatory.  To start, follow the first 3 days of the "Puerto Rico in 1 Week" itinerary above (San Juan on Days 1 and 2, El Yunque and Luquillo Beach on Day 3), then head to Las Croabas to begin Day 4.  Start: San Juan. 

Days 1, 2 & 3: San Juan, El Yunque ★★★ & Luquillo Beach ★★★

Follow the first 3 days of the "Puerto Rico in 1 Week" itinerary above. 

Day 4: Las Croabas & Palmas del Mar

The northeast corner of Puerto Rico is a water- and sports-enthusiast's dream, with sailing, golf, and all sorts of outdoor pursuits.  It's not cheap, but it's worth every cent to check into El Conquistador Resort & Golden Door Spa for the day, taking advantage of its vast array of facilities and restaurants, as well as its water park, health club, spa, children's programs, and watersports equipment. 

Using the resort as a base, you can explore Las Cabezas de San Juan Nature Reserve, with its famous lighthouse, "El Faro," and untrammeled tropical forest and beaches.  There's a marina on site and several more in town, including the Puerto del Rey (the Caribbean's largest and most modern marina).  There a beautiful white-sand, public beach, Playa Seven Seas, and a short hike from here is Playa Escondido (Hidden Beach) and Playa El Convento, the start of a 7-mile undeveloped strip of land.  for more coverage of these sandy strips. 

The resort has several fine restaurants, and the village of Los Croabas, a quaint fishing port, has several simple but high-quality seafood restaurants. 

Another option would be to continue driving south along the east coast to Humacao and the nearby resort of Palmas del Mar, where you can participate in the best-organized sporting activities in eastern Puerto Rico, ranging from vast tennis courts to scuba diving and golf, along with deep-sea fishing (see coverage beginning on ).  Palmas also has 3 miles (4.8km) of exceptional white-sand beaches, all open to the public.  There are also a large number of places for lunch and dinner at the resort and a good, affordable seafood restaurant serving freshly caught fish. 

If you can't afford the prices of these large resorts, there are several smaller inns throughout this area, from Luquillo to Naguabo. 

Days 5 & 6: Vieques ★

Regardless of where you are based for the night, arrive early at the port of Fajardo on Puerto Rico's eastern coast for a 1-hour ferryboat ride to the island of Vieques, the largest of the so-called Spanish Virgin Islands (it is, in fact, a U.S. territory).  Check into a hotel here for 2 nights.  Resorts and small inns come in all price ranges (coverage of hotels begins on ). 

A stopover in Vieques might be the most idyllic spot in your vacation, as the island offers 40 beautiful, white-sand beaches, all open to the public.  See "The Best Beaches."  Lazy days in the sun aren't the only activities on the island.  You can tour the luminous waters of Phosphorescent Bay, join mountain-bike excursions, go fishing from a kayak, take snorkeling trips, or go scuba diving.  Fort Conde de Mirasol Museum is an interesting museum housed in a historic fort, and federal authorities operate two wildlife refuges on former military lands.  At night, Vieques offers a wide range of bars and good restaurants, the best available on any of Puerto Rico's offshore islands. 

Day 7: Culebra ★

From Vieques, you can also ferry over to close-by Culebra, which is far more offbeat and undiscovered than Vieques.  Though still undeveloped, Culebra facilities have seen substantial upgrades in recent years, and there are many more quality rooms available over the last few years. 

Like Vieques, Culebra is chock-full of white-sand beaches, and you can explore the Culebra Wildlife Refuge.  Also snorkel here, or kayak, fish, sail, or hike.  The best way to explore the island is to rent and drive a jeep—although most visitors prefer to hang out for the day on one of Culebra's beaches.  The main beach is the mile-long (1.6km) Flamenco Beach, an arcing cove with vibrant water and clean sand.  The next morning, return by ferry to the port of Fajardo for a continuation of the tour. 

Day 8: San Juan ★★★

On the morning of Day 8, leave Culebra by taking a ferry back to the port of Fajardo.  From here, drive west to San Juan for an overnight stopover.  Because the city is so vast and so filled with amusements, try to use the time to mop up all the shopping, attractions, and nightlife options you missed on your first visit.  See chapter 6 for all the possible options, including outdoor pursuits, awaiting you. 

Day 9: Ponce & the Southwest ★★

On the morning of Day 9, leave San Juan and drive south to Ponce, the chief city on the southern coast.  Follow the suggestions as outlined in Day 4 and Day 5 of "Puerto Rico in 1 Week" (see above). 

Day 10: Mountain Retreat ★★

Follow the suggestions for Day 6 of "Puerto Rico in 1 Week," above. 

Day 11: Rincón & the Northwest ★

For suggestions, refer to Day 7 in "Puerto Rico in 1 Week," above.  However, save a separate day for Isla Mona (see below), which richly deserves it. 

Day 12: Isla Mona ★★★

Boat excursions over to this island are not as organized as they should be, but it's worth the trouble to get to Mona, even enduring a difficult sea crossing across Pasaje de la Mona.  Most visitors use Mayagüez (covered earlier) as their base for exploring Mona Island, returning to the mainland for the night.  Other, more adventurous travelers camp out on the island.  Lying some 50 miles (80km) off the Puerto Rican mainland, Mona has been called the Jurassic Park of the Caribbean. 

A nature reserve since 1919, Mona has been uninhabited for the past half-century except for day-trippers.  Every species from fish-eating bats to wild goats and pigs live here.  And of course, the giant iguanas.  The environment is beautiful, but potentially hostile because of its wildness.  Department of Natural and Environmental Resources rangers are on hand to offer advice and guidance.  There are toilets and saltwater showers at Playa Sardinera, but visitors need to bring fresh water.  You can go camping, but the itinerary assumes you'd rather return to the comfort of a hotel room in Mayagüez. 

Day 13: Mayagüez & the Northwest

Squeeze in some chill time by the pool in this west-coast suburban city.  Go explore the beautifully restored downtown area.  Highlights include the elegant central Plaza Colón, dominated by a monument of Christopher Columbus, surrounded by 16 bronze statues of courtly ladies, and the historic Yaguez Theater, City Hall, and Post Office.  Two huge fires and an earthquake at the turn of the 20th century destroyed much of the city three different times, but there's much fine architecture from the 1920s and later. 

You'll also want to visit the city's zoo, Puerto Rico National Parks Zoo, or its Tropical Agriculture Research Station, next to the Mayagüez Campus of the University of Puerto Rico.  Anyone can walk through this site for botanical research, whose grounds feature towering bamboo, wild fruit trees, and the various plant species grown here. 

After lunch, as you head north out of the city, drive by its historic harbor and warehouse district with a restored Customs House from the 1920s. 

You'll be going to the beautiful towns of the northwest coast, most probably Isabela, with abundant affordable lodging options right near the coast, about 30 miles (48km) north.  It's so close, you'll have time for a quick swim at whatever beach is right outside your hotel or at its pool.  There are no bad beaches here. 

A kind of alternative-lifestyle vibe accompanies the town's surf culture, so the young and young at heart will find great entertainment and live music at area bars. 

Day 14: Arecibo ★, Indian Ceremonial Park & Rio Camuy Caves ★★★

As you head east for your return to San Juan, you can take in three wonders of Puerto Rico.  The Observatorio de Arecibo, the world's largest and most sensitive radar/radio-telescope, searches the night sky for extraterrestrial life in the universe beyond.  In Karst Country, the Caguaña Indian Ceremonial Park in Utuado was built by the Taíno Indians a thousand years ago.  The grandest attraction of all, the Rio Camuy Caves, contains the third-largest underground river in the world.  With proper timing, all three of these attractions can be explored in 1 day, with time still left for the final drive back into San Juan.  Arm yourself with a good map and explore the coverage of these attractions in chapter 7 before heading here. 

Following your visits, continue to San Juan, at a distance of some 68 miles (109km) to the west.  But remember, it's probably also possible to book a flight into San Juan and out of Aguadilla, especially during the winter high tourism season.  Again, this would buy you another afternoon on the beach at Isabela. 

Puerto Rico for Families

Puerto Ricans love their niños, and places all over the island are kid-friendly.  The nature of the island itself, with its parks, beach-studded seaside resorts, and amusement centers, virtually invites you for a family outing.  Because of islanders' welcoming attitude toward children, you will meet a lot more Puerto Ricans on your trip if you are traveling with children.  And remember, don't forget that picnic lunch.  Start: San Juan. 

Days 1 & 2: San Juan ★★★

Old San Juan has more to offer children than any other Caribbean capital.  The massive wall of the square-mile Spanish colonial enclave joins the two historic fortresses that were built at the land and sea entrances to the city.  Children will enjoy exploring the tunnels, vaults, look-out points, dungeons, and ramps of Castillo de San Felipe del Morro (the must-visit of the two) and Fort San Cristóbal.  And the grassy fields surrounding El Morro are a favorite spot for kite-flying.  You can buy a kite at the street-side refreshment carts outside the park's entrance.  You'll also want to visit Museo del Niño (Children's Museum, ), with interactive exhibits, a rooftop nature center, play areas, and a theater.  It's right in the middle of major sites, next to Hotel El Convento and Catedral de San Juan.  The historic city's plazas are also a playground for kids, who love feeding the pigeons in Plaza de Las Armas and running through the shooting fountains at Plaza Quinto Centenario.  Skateboarding is also popular at some of the plazas. 

There's a free trolley to ride, a dirt-cheap ferry that goes across the bay and back in about a half-hour, and even horse and buggies to rent.  Abundant high-quality Puerto Rican, Mediterranean, Asian, and European cuisines are available at Old City restaurants, so a nice lunch is in order.  For recommendations on flavorful food at good prices, see chapter 5.  Make sure to take a break at Ben & Jerry's, with free Internet, DJ music, books, magazines, big tables and chairs, and, oh yes, those baked goods and that ice cream. 

Afterwards, walk off lunch by doing some shopping and maybe taking in a few more sights.  Another option is to take a cab back to the hotel for some sunshine and a swim before sunset. 

The next day, you'll want to take your kids to the beach.  Depending on where you are staying, that will likely be Condado, Ocean Park, or Isla Verde.  And of course, kids prefer some of the resort pools, many of which cater to them with slides, tunnels, and spray-and-play areas. 

If you don't want the little ones in the sun too long, take a cab to Plaza las Américas, the largest mall in the Caribbean.  There's a multiplex cinema, several restaurants, a food court, and lots of great shops for kids (Discovery, a Border's with a reading room, Game Stop, and so on). 

Day 3: El Yunque ★★★ & Luquillo Beach ★★★

While still based in San Juan, journey east for a day or two of the island's biggest attractions: El Yunque rainforest and the island's most famous and best beach, Luquillo.  For suggestions, refer to Day 3 of "Puerto Rico in 1 Week," earlier in this chapter. 

Days 4 & 5: Ponce & the Southwest Coast ★★

On the morning of Day 4, leave San Juan early for a scenic drive southwest to the second city of Ponce, a distance of 75 miles (121km).  Stop at the historic downtown area, concentrating on the ring of sites surrounding Plaza las Delicias, the central plaza dominated by a huge lion statue.  Kids will enjoy the 1883 Parque de Bombas, a strangely shaped, black and red, wooden firehouse.  After stretching your legs, it's time for lunch. 

If your kids are just as happy at a hotel pool as a beach, then you can stay the night in Ponce, which lacks a good swimming beach.  After some fun in the sun and dinner, you can take a stroll on the boardwalk along a public harbor called La Guancha.  This is like a more wholesome version of New York's Coney Island and is often mobbed with families.  Food stands sell local delicacies and snacks, and there are often free concerts and other events with family appeal.  It's particularly lively on weekends and holidays. 

But unless there is some event or other compelling reason to stay in Ponce, I'd recommend heading out straight after lunch to Guánica, the first of a string of beach towns 21 miles (34km) west of Ponce that makes a good base to explore the southwest regardless of your budget. 

En route, you can drive the family through parts of the Guánica Dry Forest, an internationally protected biosphere that's home to 100 rare bird species and unique vegetation that gives it its distinctive stunted forest look.  There's still plenty of time for the beach after checking in.  You might consider taking a 15-minute boat ride to Gilligan's Island (yes, the same name as that old TV sitcom).  Part of the forest reserve, the island is one of a series of mangrove and sandy cays off the Caña Gorda peninsula.  Kids have a blast in the shallow water surrounding it and the saltwater canals that cut through the island. 

Have dinner at your hotel or head down to the main harbor in downtown Guánica.  A string of simple seafood restaurants front the water, serving up freshly caught fish criollo style. 

The next day, take a scenic drive west along the green Lajas Valley, with the towering Cordillera Center looming dramatically over it in the distance.  Your destination is the palm-fringed public beach at Boquerón, whose calm, warm waters are perfect for families.  A big, wide beach, Boquerón offers plenty of room for all sorts of beach play as well as picnic tables, barbecue pits, and roofed shelters.  The facilities also include showers and changing rooms, as well as restrooms.  There are numerous hotel rooms for all budgets here, or you could stay a second night in Guánica. 

After showering up and changing from the beach, take a short drive to the nearby fishing village of La Parguera.  Restaurants in town cater to families with freshly caught seafood and local Puerto Rican food.  There are also food stands selling everything from pizza and fried chicken to fresh seafood salads and turnovers made with lobster and conch.  There are video game arcades and other activities for kids.  After dinner and a stroll, take a 90-minute boat trip through the glowing waters of the bioluminescent bay.  Boats leave frequently from the docks in town. 

Day 6: Aguadilla

On the morning of Day 6, head to the northwest coastal town of Aguadilla, which has an enormous number of reasonably priced hotels perfect for families.  You'll have time to visit picture-perfect Crash Boat Beach.  The town is also popular with kids, as it has Las Cascadas Water Park and Aguadilla Ice Skating Rink, undoubtedly the only rink of its kind in Aguadilla. 

Day 7: Arecibo ★, Indian Ceremonial Park & Rio Camuy Caves ★★★

For your final day, you can take in three major island attractions before your drive east back to San Juan and its transportation hub.  If you choose to fly directly out of Aguadilla, you will buy an extra afternoon in the region. 

For details, refer to Day 14, under "Puerto Rico in 2 Weeks." 

Driving Tour: La Ruta Panoramica in 2 Days

"The Panoramic Route"—called La Ruta Panorámica by Puerto Ricans—winds its way through the Central Mountains in the heart of the island for some 100 miles (161km).  This is the most scenic drive in the Caribbean.  The mountains are the home of the jíbaro, the country farmer whose way of life is fast disappearing in modern Puerto Rico.  The agricultural life and ways of the jíbaro, which have inspired some of the most important works of literature and a whole genre of country music, still live on in the central mountain towns, however, and this route is the most comprehensive way of seeing them.  Expect winding, twisting roads, and don't forget to blow your horn as you turn blind curves.  After rainstorms, there are frequent washouts.  Although locals speed by you as if in a race car, it's advisable for newcomers to go no more than 25 mph (40kmph).  In spite of some difficulties, it's worth the effort to cross through the Cordillera Central's dramatic peaks and valleys.  The Cordillera mountains rise more than 4,000 feet (1,219m) in some places.  You'll pass by Cerro de Punta, which, at 4,389 feet (1,338m), is the highest in Puerto Rico.  These mountains have helped define Puerto Rico.  Start: Drive from San Juan. 

Day 1: From Carite Forest ★ to Jayuya

Leave San Juan early in the morning for the drive south, taking Highway 52 to exit 32, which will take you to Route 184, also heading south.  Stay on 184 as it cuts right through the most scenic parts of the Carite Forest Reserve.  Roadside grills tempt with the succulent lechón (roasted pig) sold at the area's famous lechoneras.  Sanjuaneros flock here on weekends to enjoy the cool mountain breezes, the grills, and even dance halls that line Route 184.  There are also cool swimming holes throughout the forest and recreation areas.  For more information, refer to Carite Forest Reserve. 

Highway 184 leads into Route 179, which you can follow out of the forest reserve (signposts lead to Lago Carite, the largest lake in the forest).  To continue west along the route, follow the signs northwest to the town of Cayey, one of the larger towns in Puerto Rico's central mountains. 

Once at Cayey, follow Route 1 south to Route 7722.  On Route 7722, turn right onto Route 722 which leads directly into Aibonito, at 2,500 feet the highest town in Puerto Rico, and one of the prettiest. 

Before town is the Mirador Piedra Degetau, an observation tower with a picnic area from which you can see both the Atlantic Ocean to the north and the Caribbean Sea to the south, not to mention the vast expanses of Puerto Rico visible to the west and east. 

You'll feel you've wandered back in time upon arriving in Aibonito, a former vacation retreat for the wealthy, which is still marked by their majestic homes, as well as coffee plantations.  The town is known as a flower growing center of the island, and has an annual flower festival that is always worth a visit, as there is plenty of local food, live music, and other entertainment. 

Beyond Aibonito, the Panoramic Route traverses the spine of the Cordillera Central for the next 30 miles, offering awe-inspiring vistas along the way.  You'll pass the Cañon de San Cristóbal, a canyon that cuts 700 feet (213m) through the mountain chain, offering waterfalls and steep cliffs.  Three rivers surge through its ravines.  The Conservation Trust of Puerto Rico has purchased surrounding lands to protect this natural wonder and is working on establishing interpretive trails and an observation center.  At its present level of development, we recommend it only for experienced hikers. 

Beyond the canyon, the route continues towards Toro Negro Forest Reserve, a lush cloud forest, and Lake Guineo, the highest lake in Puerto Rico.  The forest is also home to Cerro de Punta, at 4,390 feet high, Puerto Rico's highest peak.  Stop inside the forest at the Recreativa Doña Juana, a picnic area beside a swimming pool fed by mountain streams.  The restaurant here serves good Puerto Rican barbecue.  The nearby Visitor Center, at Route 143, Km 32.4 (  787/867-3040), offers you a trail map; it's open daily from 8am to 4pm.  There are no supplies in the park, so bring mosquito repellent and bottled water. 

At the eastern side of the forest is the famous Doña Juana Waterfall (Rte.  149, Km 41.5), cascading 120 feet (37m) over a rock-strewn cliff. 

Head for the remote mountain town of Jayuya, surrounded by big green mountains, to the country inn Parador Hacienda Gripiñas.  From Route 143 cut north along Route 149, and then turn west at the junction of Route 144 signposted into Jayuya.  The inn is a wonderful place to relax and cool off from the Caribbean heat.  The town is also a great place to explore the island's Taíno past.  Make sure to visit La Piedra Escrita (the Written Rock), a huge boulder beside a stream with Taíno petroglyphs carved into it, and the Cemi Museum (Rte.  149, Km 9.3), which has a nice collection of Taíno jewelry and artifacts. 

Day 2: Utuado, Adjuntas & Maricao

Leave Jayuya in the morning, cutting south on Route 44, then northwest along Route 140 (which becomes Rte.  111), following the signs into the town of Utuado, site of another well-known parador, Casa Grande Mountain Retreat, which is another option for a stopover.  For more details on the town. 

With its Spanish-styled central plaza, Utuado still reflects its colonial roots, but it is also one of the spots in Puerto Rico that most embraces its Taíno past.  Most visitors arrive here to explore the Indian Ceremonial Park at Caguaña, a 1,000 year old Taíno site that was used for recreation and worship.  There are ancient bateyes (ball courts) and stoned monoliths covered with petroglyphs.  This is the largest site of Taíno ruins in Puerto Rico. 

You can easily wander around for an hour or two before heading on towards Adjuntas, the heart of coffee country, which you get to by taking Route 10 south.  Adjuntas is known as "the town of the sleeping giant" because of its silhouette created by the enveloping mountains.  In addition to coffee, it is also an important producer of oranges. 

Also worth a visit is Lago Dos Bocas, a beautiful lake surrounded by forest.  Free ferries ply the lake, and you can take a ride to one of the rustic cafes along the shore.  The lake is stocked, so it's a nice spot to fish as well. 

There is a tangle of roads leading here through the mountains to Maricao, a beautiful mountain town of huge coffee plantations, and the last stop along the route.  Travel along Route 129 to Route 111, and then continue along Route 128 until Route 431.  From there, it's on to Route 4431, Route 124, and finally Route 120 into town.  This winding road changes its number so many times, you'll lose track; follow the signposts to Maricao and not the route numbers, and you won't go wrong. 

Maricao's Monte del Estado Forest, is the largest state forest on the island, and you can spend all day exploring it.  The coffee-producing town is the smallest municipality in Puerto Rico.  It lies at the far western end of Ruta Panorámica, and is an idyllic retreat for exploring, as it's surrounded by mountain gorges, old bridges, terraced houses, rushing streams of cold water, and enough switchback roads to challenge the most skilled of alpine drivers. 

The forest has swimming pools fed by mountain streams, a picnic area, and a campground with cabins for rent.  It's a perfect spot to have lunch surrounded by mountain peaks.  On hot days, the forest pools, fed by mountain streams, are particularly refreshing.  Locals will do their own cooking on site, but you can also bring food from any restaurant in town, such as El Buen Café (  787/838-4198), right on the main plaza, which serves up cheap and flavorful sandwiches and plates of comida criolla, local island dishes. 

There is a Visitor Center at Route 120, Km 16.2 (  787/873-5632), which will provide maps of the forest and even hook you up with a private guide if you want to do more extensive exploring.  Hours are daily 8am to 4pm.  If you climb Torre de Piedra, a stone observation tower, you can take in a panoramic sweep of the entire western half of Puerto Rico.  It is open daily from 8am to 4pm (free admission). 

You'll probably stay for lunch, but since the closure of Parador Hacienda Juanita, a parador-restaurant that operated for many years out of a converted, 160-year-old former coffee plantation, the best option for a hotel is to barrel on west down to Mayagüez, or head to the beach towns to the north or west.  It's a 2-hour drive from Mayagüez to San Juan, a distance of 98 miles (158km) up the west coast and across the north coast. 
Chapter 4: San Juan Hotels & Restaurants

All but a handful of visitors arrive in San Juan, the capital city.  It is the political base, economic powerhouse, and cultural center of the island, home to about one-third of all Puerto Rico residents.  With Isla Verde's palm-fringed aquamarine coast, the Spanish colonial romance of Hotel El Convento, and the modern elegance of Condado's oceanside boulevard, San Juan offers big-city fun and the pleasures of a tropical retreat.  It takes in stride all it has to offer: postcard-perfect beaches, thriving arts and nightlife scenes, and sophisticated dining.  A great place to party, there are also cultural treasures, the gothic San Juan Cathedral, or the gardens of Casa Blanca.  Top sport-fishing grounds and surf breaks are right offshore. 

Things to Do Explore sentry-towers and dungeons at El Morro fortress, which rises above the swirling Atlantic from the rocky base of Old San Juan, where the stone streets, lined with Spanish colonial balconies dripping with bougainvillea, are chock-full of cultural sites.  Puerto Rican masters Francisco Oller and Rafael Tufino congregate at Santurce's Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico.  Life really is a beach here: watch kiteboarders catch air at low-key Ocean Park, or parasail above the beautiful crowd on Isla Verde's golden sands. 

Shopping Old San Juan's narrow streets bustle with boutiques and funky shops, factory outlets, and exclusive galleries.  Known for its jewelry, the city's local artwork, whether contemporary prints or antique santos wood carvings, is also competitively priced and top notch.  Plaza del Mercado, Santurce's traditional marketplace, sells tropical fruit, santeria potions, and classic salsa and bolero recordings.  Plaza las America, the Caribbean's largest, has Macy's, P.F. Chang's, and all the amenities of a village. 

Restaurants & Dining Be sure to taste comida criolla's warm flavor at a San Juan fonda, but there's more than tropical comfort food here.  Peruvian ceviche houses, French bistros, and sushi emporiums blanket San Juan, home to the restaurants of celebrity chefs Wilo Benet, a guest Top Chef judge, and Roberto Trevino, an Iron Chef competitor, who take traditional Latino food to new heights.  There's plenty to eat in the well-worn tourist areas, but much of the culinary action is in downtown Miramar and Santurce and the Hato Rey financial district. 

The second-oldest city in the Americas (behind Santo Domingo in the Dominican Republic), the charming historic district Old San Juan has some of the best examples of Spanish colonial architecture in the hemisphere, as well as stunning Art Deco and other buildings from the early 20th century.  From La Fortaleza (the governor's mansion) to the two old Spanish forts to the Catedral de San Juan, the wonders of the city are a short walk from each other. 

New San Juan has its charms as well, particularly evident in its more storied residential architecture in Santurce, Miramar, and Río Piedras.  The coastal areas are more modern, where parts of Condado and Isla Verde feel like a more intimate Miami Beach, with rows of luxury hotels and condominiums and fat golden beaches.  The two main beach districts have low-key corners, however, and the residential Ocean Park community separates them.  A few guesthouses are scattered amid the luxury homes fronting San Juan's best beach. 

There are crime and traffic problems, and the effects of a long recession have taken their toll, with shuttered businesses and vacant, newly built luxury condominiums.  After 6 years, the economy is picking up, and improvement projects will soon increase San Juan's appeal. 

The waterfront district from Old San Juan to the Miramar Convention District is slowly being renovated, with a bayside park on the edge of Old San Juan set to open in 2012.  With an urban train system, a coliseum, and a state-of-the-art convention center, San Juan is moving toward the future.  New projects promise to take the mass transit line farther west along the northern coast and farther into metropolitan San Juan, connecting the financial district with the urban downtown Santurce area, the developing Convention District, and onward to Old San Juan. 

Visitors can pretty easily live off the bus and Urban Train system and get where they want to go throughout the tourism districts of Isla Verde, Condado, and Old San Juan, as well as in the other main San Juan districts: Miramar, Santurce, Hato Rey, and Río Piedras.  Taxis are plentiful and economically priced. 

Old San Juan is a 7-square-block area that was once completely enclosed by a wall erected by the Spanish centuries ago.  The most powerful fortress in the Caribbean, this fortified city repeatedly held off would-be attackers.  By the 19th century, however, it had become one of the Caribbean's most charming residential and commercial districts.  Today, it's a setting for restaurants, shops, and a large concentration of art galleries and museums.  Most of the major resort hotels are located nearby, along the Condado beachfront and at Isla Verde (see "Where to Stay," later in this chapter).  But the Old City has several first rate hotels and inns, as well. 

Orientation

San Juan Orientation

Arriving by Plane

Visitors from overseas arrive at Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport, the major transportation center of the Caribbean.  The airport is on the easternmost side of the city, conveniently located near the Isla Verde, Condado, and Old San Juan tourist districts. 

The airport offers services such as a tourist-information center, restaurants, hair stylists, coin lockers for storing luggage, bookstores, banks, currency-exchange kiosks, and bars.  There are also a number of shops selling souvenirs and local rums and coffees for last-minute shopping for gifts for folks back home. 

Getting from the Airport to the City

By Taxi Some of the larger hotels outside San Juan send vans to pick up airport passengers and transport them back to the property, but they charge separately for this service.  In San Juan, you'll probably opt to take a taxi to your hotel (buses at 75¢ are cheap but not very timely or practical).  Dozens of taxis line up outside the airport to meet arriving flights, so you never have to wait.  There are set fares for destinations within San Juan; for other destinations, the cost of the trip should be determined by the taxi meter.  The island's Puerto Rico Tourism Company (Transportation Division;   787/999-2100 or 253-0418) establishes the flat rates between the Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport and major tourist zones: From the airport to any hotel in Isla Verde, the fee is $10; to any hotel in the Condado district, the charge is $15; and to any hotel in Old San Juan, the cost is $19.  Taxi service from the airport is quite well regulated, with a dispatcher handing you a ticket detailing your costs.  These also include baggage costs (50¢ for each of the first three bags, then $1 per bag), and a 10% to 15% tip is expected. 

Travel time can vary widely, depending on traffic conditions, with late-afternoon and early morning traffic jams common during commuting hours Monday through Friday.  With no traffic delays, Condado is only a 12-minute drive from the airport, but if you get stuck in one of the island's legendary tapones, as traffic jams are called here, it could take up to an hour.  Old San Juan, the farthest destination, is about a 20-minute ride without traffic. 

By Limousine There are more than enough reputable limousine rental companies to choose from, but arrangements must be made beforehand, since limousines don't sit at the airport like taxis.  You must arrange pickup in advance, or call once you get in.  A simple pickup from the airport to your hotel ranges in cost from $100 to $125.  Most vehicles fit six passengers comfortably.  Your driver will meet you outside the baggage-claim area. 

By Public Car Public cars, called públicos, are either vans or large sedans that are shared by passengers.  The ride can sometimes be crowded and take longer the more passengers there are.  They are a bargain for budget travelers who have to travel a distance from the airport and do not want to rent a car.  It will cost you $20 to get to Ponce and $10 to Caguas, plus baggage fee.  You'll probably have to take a public bus to pick up the público line, however. 

By Car All the major car-rental companies have kiosks at the airport.  Although it's possible to rent a car once you arrive, your best bet is to reserve one before you leave home.  They provide transportation to your car.  See the "Getting Around" section of chapter 11 for details. 

To drive into the city, head west along Route 26, or the Baldorioty de Castro Expressway, which cuts just south of San Juan's Atlantic coastline.  Immediately to your right, you will see an Isla Verde exit, and soon the towering oceanfront condominiums of Isla Verde are visible to the right.  The road cuts through the Santurce section at the heart of San Juan.  You'll see exits for Condado.  All hotels have parking lots open to the public, and several lots are visible from the main roads in the area—both Ashford Avenue and Isla Verde Avenue in Condado.  The road then passes by the Condado Lagoon and crosses into Puerta de Tierra near the Caribe Hilton.  The road at this point becomes Avenida Muñoz Rivera, as it passes a beautifully landscaped park of the same name on one side, followed by the El Escambrón public beach.  The Third Millennium Park is on the opposite side.  The road then climbs a bluff overlooking the Atlantic coastline, offering a dramatic view of waves crashing against the rocky shoals. 

Here, you will pass the capitol building on your left, and then the historic Spanish fortress Fort San Cristóbal at the entrance of Old San Juan.  If you continue straight down into the city along Calle San Sebastián, the northern border of Plaza Colón, you will find parking at La Cochera near Plaza de Armas, which is the closest to the center of the historic district.  Another option is to turn right and take the northern coastal road to Ballaja, where there is parking.  If you plan on visiting the San Sebastian Street area or El Convento hotel, these two options work best. 

If you plan on hanging around the jumping SoFo section near La Fortaleza, you may want to head straight at the stop sign in front of Plaza Colón, taking the street that passes beside the Tapia Theater.  Right behind the theater, where the road intersects with Calle Recinto Sur, is the large Paseo Portuario parking garage (  787/722-2233).  Bear right for the entrance.  Farther down the one-way street is the city-run Doña Fela parking garage (no phone).  Another option at Plaza Colón is to turn left at Plaza Colón as if exiting the city.  Take your first two rights, which will turn you around again past the Treasury Building, and park your car in another Covadonga Parking Garage (  787/721-6911) on the left.  Operating hours vary, but they are open at least until midnight during weekdays and 3am weekends.  Prices vary, with municipal-run lots cheaper than private lots, but figure on paying $1 per hour at municipal lots and up to $3.50 at private lots. 

By Bus Those with little luggage can take a bus at a cost of 75¢. You need to hop on the B40 or the C45, taking it one stop to Isla Verde.  From there, you can take the A5, which runs through Isla Verde, swings towards Condado near Avenida de Diego, and then heads into Old San Juan.  To go farther into the Condado, you should switch to B21 at the Parada 18, or Stop 18, bus transfer station, or get off at the Calle Loiza and Avenida De Diego stop and transfer there. 

Visitor Information

The Puerto Rico Tourism Company office at Luís Muñoz Marín Airport (  787/791-1014) is open December to April daily from 9am to 10pm, and May to November daily 9am to 8pm.  In Old San Juan, the Tourism Company operates an information center at La Casita, at Plaza de la Darsena, Old San Juan, near Pier 1, where the cruise ships come in (  787/722-1709).  This office is open Saturday through Wednesday from 8:30am to 8pm, Thursday and Friday 8:30am to 5pm. 

City Layout

Metropolitan San Juan includes the walled Old San Juan at the end of a long peninsula, Puerta de Tierra, the narrow bridge of land between San Juan Bay and the Atlantic Ocean that connects the Old City with the rest of San Juan.  You can take a bridge into Condado, a narrow strip of land between the ocean and a lagoon, or continue on to the beautiful residential Miramar neighborhood, where the once seedy waterfront section is being revamped into the world-class Convention Center District and related leisure development.  The city also includes Santurce, its traditional downtown area, which has also been experiencing revitalization in recent years, with large theaters and old apartment buildings being polished up so that the sector is starting to shine again like it did in its 1940s heyday.  The Hato Rey financial district has taken on an almost futuristic look with its elevated Tren Urbano and distinctive Puerto Rico Coliseum, which has something exciting going on just about every week.  Río Piedras is both the site of the University of Puerto Rico and one of the best street markets in the Caribbean. 

The Condado strip of beachfront hotels, restaurants, casinos, and nightclubs is separated from Miramar by a lagoon.  Isla Verde, another resort area, is near the airport, which is separated from the rest of San Juan by an isthmus.  Ocean Park is a charming residential neighborhood between the two that has a great beach. 

Finding an Address Finding an address in San Juan isn't always easy.  You'll have to contend not only with missing street signs and numbers but also with street addresses that appear sometimes in English and at other times in Spanish.  The most common Spanish terms for thoroughfares are calle (street) and avenida (avenue).  When it is used, the street number follows the street name; for example, the El Convento hotel is located at Calle del Cristo 100, in Old San Juan.  Locating a building in Old San Juan is relatively easy.  The area is only 7 square blocks, so by walking around, it's possible to locate most addresses.  Also, sanjuaneros, for reasons I've yet to determine, still use the stop numbers, or paradas, from a trolley that stopped running back in the 1950s as a reference point for directions.  For example, parada 18 is at the heart of Santurce.  In general, the higher the stop number, the farther its distance from Old San Juan. 

Street Maps ¡Qué Pasa!,  the monthly tourist magazine distributed free by the tourist office, contains accurate, easy-to-read maps of San Juan and the Condado that pinpoint the major attractions. 

Neighborhoods in Brief

Old San Juan Home to among the hemisphere's finest restorations of Spanish colonial fortresses and buildings, the Old City is all the more beautiful for its dramatic location sprawled across a headland on the western end of an isleta, or peninsula that splits the roaring Atlantic Ocean from San Juan Bay.  It's encircled by water; on the north is the Atlantic Ocean and on the south and west is the tranquil San Juan Bay.  The historic Spanish wall built to hold off attacks still circles the city, which is filled with beautiful churches, shady plazas, majestic promenades, and wonderful residences and gardens.  It's a robust cultural and commercial district with theaters, galleries, clubs, bars, and restaurants, and some of the most interesting shops in the region.  There are fine lodgings with sundecks and pools, so you can work on your tan and stay in the city if that's your thing. 

Puerta de Tierra Translated as "land gateway," Puerta de Tierra lies just east of the old city walls of San Juan.  It is split by Avenida Ponce de León and interconnects Old San Juan with the Puerto Rican "mainland."  Founded by freed black slaves, the settlement today functions as the island's administrative center and is the site of military and government buildings, including the capitol and various U.S. naval reserves.  It is dominated by the green Luis Muñoz Rivera Park, and the oceanfront Third Millennium Park and adjacent El Escambrón public beach.  Its southern end is home to a rough and tumble neighborhood with a few interesting eateries. 

Miramar Miramar is an upscale residential neighborhood, with a small business district and a large port across San Juan Bay.  It has two marinas where fishing boats and yachts lie at anchor.  The whole harborside area is being redeveloped, spearheaded by the state-of-the-art Puerto Rico Convention Center and the Sheraton Puerto Rico Convention Center Hotel.  Adjacent luxury retail, office, and residential units are scheduled, as government planners look to renovate the bayside coast all the way to Old San Juan.  It's also the site of Isla Grande Airport, where you can board flights to the islands of Vieques and Culebra. 

Condado Linked to Puerta de Tierra and Old San Juan by a bridge built in 1910, the Condado is back in vogue again, something it has been, off and on, since being known as the "Riviera of the Caribbean," in the 1920s.  It roared back to life in the 1960s and 1970s and has done so again today.  Several restored hotels and other properties have undergone dazzling renovations along this district wedged between the Atlantic Ocean and the Condado Lagoon, with the most recent being the Legendary Vanderbilt Hotel in 2012.  One of the most coveted neighborhoods in Puerto Rico, there are resort-style hotels and charming guesthouses tucked away along quiet streets and right on the beach. 

The beautiful oceanfront Window of the Sea Park is at the center of the area; it opens onto the Atlantic Ocean and is fronted by gleaming townhouses and luxury towers, home to glamorous residences, restaurants, and designer fashion stores.  These include Gucci and Salvatore Ferragamo, luxury condos, and Budatai, one of the island's best restaurants.  The former La Concha has opened next door after a 10-year renovation, and luxury condos are being built in the former Vanderbilt hotel nearby.  Luxury hotels and more modest guesthouses fill the sector, as do wonderful restaurants of all types. 

One central road, Avenida Ashford, runs through Condado, which, at night especially, still evokes something of Miami Beach, with its restored Art Deco properties and modern luxury condos and hotels.  The area is popular with locals, the gay community, and visitors. 

Ocean Park Dividing the competitive beach resort areas of the Condado and Isla Verde, Ocean Park is a beachfront residential neighborhood with probably the prettiest and most low-key beach in San Juan.  The beaches are wide here, and the sun beats down on the beach longer because there are few large condominiums.  It's great for windsurfing and kite-sailing, games of paddle ball, and body surfing.  The tree-covered streets are filled with beautiful suburban homes, a charming mix of Malibu, Spanish, and Caribbean influences. 

The white, arching Ultimate Trolley Beach delineates the border between Ocean Park and Punta Las Marias.  Adjacent to that, the neighborhood of Santa Teresita, with its share of equally stunning residences, has an equally nice park, Barbosa Park.  The park is usually filled with soccer and basketball players.  There are tennis courts, a baseball field, and a track, which are always a beehive of activity. 

The beach disappears into a rock formation at Punta Las Marías, which is a gated community open to pedestrian visitors during the day.  But unless you're a windsurfer using one of the neighborhood's famed launching points, your experience of the area will likely be confined to the string of fine restaurants along Calle Loíza, right before it turns into Avenida Isla Verde.  The neighborhood is also popular with the gay and lesbian community, residents and visitors alike. 

Isla Verde East of the Condado, en route to the airport, Isla Verde—technically a part of the municipality of Carolina but in spirit more a part of San Juan—is larger than the Condado and probably has more hotels.  Here there is also an oceanfront row of luxury condos and hotels along a main oceanfront boulevard.  But where Condado may score higher with its restaurants, shops, and its older and more artful architecture, Isla Verde wins hands down in the beach department—you'll find a wide, clean, white-sand beach running the full length of the neighborhood just off its main strip.  The main road here is called Isla Verde Avenue.  Pine Grove Beach, a favorite with sailors and surfers, is located east of where the main beach ends.  After Isla Verde is a municipal public beach and then the undeveloped area of Piñones, with its rural coastal charms. 

Don't come here for history or romance.  Two features put Isla Verde on the tourist map: some of San Juan's best beaches and its most deluxe hotels.  This district appeals to travelers who like a hotel to offer everything under one roof: entertainment, vast selections of dining, convenient shopping, pools, and an array of planned activities. 

Hato Rey The city's financial district, the Wall Street of the West Indies, occupies several streets.  There are high-rises, a large federal complex, and many business and banking offices. 

The sector has been transformed by the Puerto Rico Coliseum and the Tren Urbano, which snakes through the towers of capitalism on elevated tracks.  The new arena gets top acts (it's had the Rolling Stones, Paul McCartney, and Britney Spears).  There's also the Fine Arts Cinema, with art and foreign films, luxury seats, gourmet food, and yes, beer and wine. 

The sector also contains the huge Luis Muñoz Marín Park, with miles of cycling and jogging paths, picnic areas, and fields, interrupted by scores of small ponds and islands of tropical vegetation.  The park also features a top-notch amphitheater and a cable car ride. 

Rio Piedras South of Hato Rey and Santurce, this is the site of the University of Puerto Rico, whose buildings look like an Ivy League school except for the tropical vegetation.  It's dominated by the landmark Roosevelt Bell Tower, named for Theodore Roosevelt, who donated the money for its construction.  It's a top-notch institution than can boast beautiful grounds as an added attraction. 

There's also a large shopping area surrounding the Río Piedras Marketplace (selling fresh fruit and vegetables) and the pedestrian walkway Paseo de Diego, lined with shops, eateries, and bargains galore.  The shops attract travelers from across the Caribbean. 

The UPR Botanical Gardens are located here as well, with a beautifully arranged array of tropical trees and plants. 

Suburban San Juan The San Juan sprawl has enveloped surrounding towns, reaching all the way down south into Caguas.  Neighboring Bayamón, Guaynabo, and Carolina are practically considered part of the city, however.  Guaynabo and Caguas have fine arts centers with top-name acts and full cultural performances, while Bayamón has such family activities as a bicycle linear park (a long, winding bike path along the Bayamón River) and the Luis A. Ferré Science Technology Park.  Visitors will also likely go to Cataño to visit the Bacardi Rum Plant.  It's a modest community built right across the bay from Old San Juban. 

Getting Around

By Taxi There is a flat-rate system for most destinations within San Juan, which is effective, and if you're caught in impenetrable traffic, it might actually work to your advantage.  The island's Puerto Rico Tourism Company (Transportation Division;   787/999-2100 or 253-0418) establishes flat rates between well-traveled areas within San Juan.  From Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport to Isla Verde, $10; to Condado, $15; and to Old San Juan, $19. 

There are also set fees from the cruise-ship piers outside of Old San Juan to set destinations: Isla Verde, $19; Condado, $12; and Old San Juan, $7.  You will also be charged $1 per bag.  Metered fares start off with an initial charge of $1.75, plus $1.90 per mile, and a 10¢ charge for each 25 seconds of waiting time.  Tolls are not included in either fare.  Normal tipping supplements of between 10% and 15% of these fares are appreciated. 

But while meters are supposed to be used, on most trips outside the zoned rates, drivers will probably offer you a flat rate of their own devising.  San Juan cabbies are loath to use the meter, more to do with ripping off the house or the taxman than the customer because more often than not, the quoted price is fair.  But feel free to refer to the established flat rate (if it applies) or ask him to turn on the meter.  Drivers normally comply immediately.  If they refuse, you can get out and refer the driver to the Tourism Company Transportation Division numbers cited above.  But if the quoted price seems fair (use the $19 flat rate for the airport to Old San Juan as a guide), it's probably easier to go ahead and pay it. 

Taxis are invariably lined up outside the entrance to most of the island's hotels, but if they're not, a staff member can almost always call one for you.  If you want to arrange a taxi on your own, some reliable operators in San Juan are Metro Taxis (  787/725-2870 or 725-3280), the Rochdale Cab Company (  787/721-1900), and the Major Cab Company (  787/723-2460 or 723-1300). 

You no longer have to negotiate a fare with the driver, usually at a flat rate, for trips to far-flung destinations within Puerto Rico.  There are also now established fees for taxi rides from San Juan to island destinations.  Some examples, from San Juan: Fajardo, $80; Ponce, $125; and Mayagüez, $160.  The complete list is available at the Puerto Rico Tourism Company website (www.seepuertorico.com/sites/default/files/media/assets/pdf/PRTC-Rates.pdf). 

By Bus The Metropolitan Bus Authority (  787/767-7979 for route information) operates buses in the greater San Juan area.  Bus stops are marked by upright metal signs or yellow posts that say parada.  The bus terminal is the dock area in the same building as the Covadanga parking lot next to the Treasury Department.  Fares are 75¢. Three routes are particularly useful for tourists, those that carry San Juan passengers from Old San Juan to other San Juan tourism districts: The A5 goes to downtown Santurce, Ocean Park and Isla Verde; the B21 down Condado's Ashford Avenue and then on to downtown San Juan, the city's financial district Hato Rey and the Plaza Las Americas mall; and the C53, which heads to the Convention Center District, then down Condado's oceanfront drive and on into Isla Verde.  Call for more information about routes and schedules.  The private MetroBus operates a few key express routes from Old San Juan to Río Piedras for 50¢.

One useful route is the A5, which hits downtown Santurce, Avenida de Diego near Condado, then goes along Loíza Street and down Isla Verde's oceanfront drive where all the hotels are located.  You can switch to the B21 at De Diego Street, if you want to go down Condado's main drive, Avenida Ashford. 

The B21 runs from Old San Juan to Condado, while also servicing Plaza Las Americas.  The privately run MetroBus runs express buses between Old San Juan and Río Piedras, with stops in Hato Rey and Santurce. 

Any bus marked ATI hooks up with the Tren Urbano, probably at its Sagrado Corazón Station, which is its last stop into the city.  The Urban Train ticket has been slashed in half to 75¢ to encourage ridership and put it on par with bus rates; and riders get one free transfer between the two systems per ticket. 

On Foot This is the only way to explore Old San Juan.  All the major attractions can easily be covered in a day.  If you're going from Old San Juan to Isla Verde, however, you'll need to rely on public transportation. 

By Trolley When you tire of walking around Old San Juan, you can board one of the free trolleys that runs through the historic area.  Departure points include the Covadonga, La Puntilla, Plaza de Armas, and the two forts, but you can board along the route by flagging the trolley down (wave at it and signal for it to stop) or by waiting at any of the clearly designated stopping points.  Relax and enjoy the sights as the trolleys rumble through the old and narrow streets.  The city has also begun operating a trolley along Loiza Street near Ocean Park, in Río Piedras and other areas. 

By Limousine San Juan has nearly two dozen limousine rental companies, so there are more than enough reputable companies to choose from.  There is a wide range of luxury vehicle rentals, called limosinas (their Spanish name), available, from Lincoln Town Car limousines to deluxe stretch Hummers.  A simple pickup from the airport to your hotel ranges in cost from $100 to $125.  Rentals for other standard trips range from about $70 to $125 per hour, with most cars seating six passengers comfortably.  Many firms use drivers who hold tour-guide permits, and limousine operators often give tours of Old San Juan, El Yunque, or other sites to small groups or families.  If the driver or another guide leaves the vehicle to tour a specific place by foot, it will cost another $15 to $25 hourly. 

By Rental Car See "Getting Around," in chapter 11, for details—including the benefits of car travel as well as the special challenges driving poses in Puerto Rico. 

By Ferry The Acuaexpreso (  787/729-8714) ferry connects Old San Juan with the industrial and residential community of Cataño, across the bay.  Ferries depart daily every 30 minutes from 6am to 9pm.  The one-way fare to Cataño is 50¢. Departures are from the San Juan Terminal at Pier 2 in Old San Juan.  However, it's best to avoid rush hours because hundreds of locals who work in town use this ferry.  The ride lasts 6 minutes.  Service on a second route between Old San Juan and the Hato Rey financial district has restarted with a $1 fare.  Ferries run from 6:30am to 6:30pm Monday through Thursday and 6:30am to 8:30pm Friday through Sunday.  The Hato Rey ferry terminal, adjacent to the Puerto Rico Coliseum and the Urban Train line, is being transformed into an entertainment and retail complex set to open in late 2012. 

By Public Car Public cars, called públicos, are either vans or large sedans that are shared by passengers.  Though they can be crowded and uncomfortable, more often than not, they are quite comfortable and spacious.  And they are a bargain for budget travelers who have to travel a distance from the airport and do not want to rent a car.  Most public cars travel set routes at prices far below what taxis would charge.  You should consider taking one from the airport if you're traveling on a budget to areas outside of San Juan. 

In San Juan, público departure and arrival points include the airport, right outside Old San Juan near Plaza Colón, and by the Río Piedras public marketplace.  Every town on the island has at least one area where públicos congregate. 

If you are traveling out on the island, you also can look them up in the telephone book and Yellow Pages under la linea, which are public cars that will pick you up where you are staying and bring you to a specific destination at an agreed-upon price.  A 2-hour drive from San Juan to Guánica costs $25 one-way.  Because you travel with other passengers, you may have to wait until the driver takes them to their destinations first.  He will pick up and drop off passengers according to what is best for his route and schedule. 

By Bike Rent the Bicycle, Calle Del Muelle, Capitolio Plaza 205, San Juan (  787/602-9696), is at the entrance of the Old San Juan bayside waterfront.  They rent bikes for $27 per day ($19 for half a day) and also conduct several tours throughout San Juan (the Piñones boardwalk tour is probably the best bet at $52).  Paradise Rentals (in Old San Juan at Pier 2 and in Condado at Condado Village, 1214 Ashford Av.;    787/413-2222) rents electric bicycles, or E-bikes, which allow you to decide whether to pedal or not.  Three hours costs $50, with each additional hour $15.  Guided tours (Old San Juan for an extra $25) and self-guided audio tours (for an extra $15) are available.  Bicycles are $35 per day and $10 per hour.  Scooters cost $75 for 3 hours for the driver and an extra $35 per passenger. 

San Juan Mass-Transit: Tren Urbano

Tren Urbano links San Juan to the Hato Rey financial district and Rio Piedras, home to the University of Puerto Rico, the Medical Center, and an increasing number of research and science facilities.  It goes on to the western suburbs of Guaynabo and Bayamón.  The system provides an easy mode of transportation through the most congested areas of metropolitan San Juan.  During rush hour (5–9am and 3–6pm), the train operates every 8 minutes; otherwise, it runs every 12 minutes.  There is no service daily from 11:20pm to 5:30am.  The fare is 75¢ one-way and includes a transfer to buses.  It's a beautiful ride and gives tourists a different experience of the city; the train passes on an elevated track through the modern, Hato Rey financial district, plunges underground in Río Piedras, and then snakes through upscale suburban neighborhoods, with tropical foliage and pools in many backyards.  The fare includes a transfer because a special class of buses has been created to link up with particular Tren Urbano routes.  The train and accompanying buses keep special expanded schedules during big events, such as festivals in Old San Juan.  They also extend schedules when big acts play at the Puerto Rico Coliseum or big events take place at the Convention Center.  The Metro Urbano, a bus rapid transport project, is slated to open in late 2012, connecting to Tren Urbano's westernmost station in Bayamón and taking passengers to suburbs farther west.  Other BRT routes are in the development stages.  For more information, call   866/900-1284, or log onto www.dtop.gov.pr/transporte_urbano/index.asp. 

  San Juan

Airport See "Arriving by Plane" and "Getting from the Airport to the City," earlier in this chapter. 

American Express Call the company's local toll-free customer service line:   800/327-1267. 

Banks Local banks have branches with ATMs in San Juan that function on U.S. networks.  Branches are open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 4pm, with select branches open Saturday 9am to noon.  Bank branches in malls are open Saturday 8:30am to 6pm and Sunday 9am to 3pm. 

Bus Information See "Getting Around" section.  For information about bus routes in San Juan, call   787/294-0500 or 250-6064. 

Car Rentals See "Getting Around," in chapter 11.  If you want to reserve after you've arrived in Puerto Rico, try Avis, Budget, or Hertz, or the local agencies Charlie Car Rental or Target Car Rental. 

Consulates Many countries maintain honorary consulates here, mostly to try to drum up mutually beneficial trade on the island, but they can be of assistance to travelers.  Great Britain's consulate has moved from San Juan to Palmas del Mar in Humacao.  It is located at Calle Mónaco 243.,  Palmas del Mar, Humacao (  787/850-2400; britishconsulatesanjuan@yahoo.com), and is open by appointment.  The consulate for Canada is at Av.  Ponce de León 268, Ste.  1111, Hato Rey (  787/759-6629 canadaprvi@aol.com), and is open only by appointment. 

Currency Exchange The unit of currency is the U.S. dollar.  Many large banks provide currency exchange at some branches, and you can also exchange money at the Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport.  See "Money & Costs," in chapter 11. 

Drugstores One of the most centrally located pharmacies is Puerto Rican Drug Co., Calle San Francisco 157 (  787/725-2202), in Old San Juan.  It's open Monday to Friday from 7:30am to 9:30pm, Saturday 8am to 9:30pm, and Sunday 8:30am to 7:30pm.  Walgreens, Av.  Ashford 1130, Condado (  787/725-1510), is open 24 hours.  There are also other Walgreens throughout the city, one in practically every neighborhood.  There are other locations in Old San Juan, Miramar, Isla Verde, and on Calle Loiza near Ocean Park.  CVS/pharmacy, Paseo Gilberto Concepcion de Gracia 105 (  787/725-2500), is located near the cruise-ship docks in Old San Juan and is open 7am to midnight daily. 

Emergencies In an emergency, dial   911.  Or call the local police (  787/343-2020), fire department (  787/343-2020), ambulance (  787/766-2222), or medical assistance (  787/754-2550). 

Eyeglasses Services are available at Pearle Vision Express, Plaza Las Americas Shopping Mall (  787/753-1033).  Hours are Monday to Saturday from 9am to 9pm and Sunday from 11am to 5pm.  Tropical Vision, Calle La Fortaleza 308 (  787/723-5488), is located in Old San Juan. 

Hospitals Ashford Presbyterian Community Hospital, Av.  Ashford 1451 (  787/721-2160), maintains a 24-hour emergency room. 

Internet Access Try CyberNet Café, Av.  Ashford 1128 (  787/724-4033), on the Condado; it charges $3.50 for the first 20 minutes, $2 for every 15 minutes extra.  Open Monday to Saturday 9am to 11pm, Sunday 10am to 11pm.  There is another branch in Isla Verde (Av.  Isla Verde 5980;   787/728-4195).  If you have a laptop or other wireless device, there are Internet hotspots throughout the city at food courts in malls, Starbucks, Burger King, McDonalds, and historic plazas in Old San Juan.  Most hotels and guesthouses also have Wi-Fi service for guests. 

Police Call   787/343-2020 for the local police. 

Post Office In San Juan, the General Post Office is at Av.  Franklin Delano Roosevelt 585 (  800/275-8777 or 787/622-1758).  If you don't know your address in San Juan, you can ask that your mail be sent here "c/o General Delivery."  This main branch is open Monday to Friday from 5:30am to 6pm, Saturday from 6am to 2pm.  A letter from Puerto Rico to the U.S. mainland will arrive in about 3 to 4 days.  See chapter 11, "Fast Facts," for more information. 

Restrooms Restrooms are not public facilities accessible from the street.  It's necessary to enter a hotel lobby, cafe, or restaurant to gain access to a toilet.  Fortunately, large-scale hotels are familiar with this situation, and someone looking for a restroom usually isn't challenged during his or her pursuit. 

Safety At night, exercise caution when walking along the back streets of San Juan, and don't venture onto the unguarded public stretches of the Condado and Isla Verde beaches at night.  Few muggings take place in tourist areas, but the usual precautions exercised in any city apply at night. 

Salons Most of San Juan's large resort hotels, including the Condado Plaza, the Marriott, and the Sheraton Old San Juan Hotel, maintain hair salons.  Los Muchachos, in Old San Juan, has an army of stylists cutting and sprucing walk-in traffic as well as appointments. 

Taxis See "Getting Around," earlier. 

Telephone, Computer & Fax There are international call, Internet, and fax and mail services available at stores near the cruise-ship docks (catering mostly to crew).  Long distance calling cards are widely available in drugstores and variety shops.  For more information, see "Staying Connected," in chapter 11. 

Where to Eat

San Juan's fine dining scene is the most varied and developed in the Caribbean.  City restaurants serve up excellent Spanish, French, American, Italian, Chinese, Mexican, and Asian cuisines.  For more on Puerto Rican food, see "Eating and Drinking," in chapter 2. 

While tasty Puerto Rican food has always been widely available on the island, in recent years, it has moved front and center, as many of the island's most talented chefs are bringing their native cuisine to new heights at some of its trendier eating establishments. 

Yet a big part of the island's culinary appeal is its diversity.  San Juan has some of the best steakhouses in the world (BLT Steak, the Palm, Morton's of Chicago, plus a number of superb local Latino steakhouses specializing in grilled meats).  Seafood plays a big role in many restaurants, as expected, but what may surprise the visitor is the quality and variety of Asian, Lebanese, Arabian, and cutting-edge Peruvian restaurants there are, to name a few. 

The resort hotels along Condado and Isla Verde house excellent restaurants, among them some of the island's finest.  But you will miss out on some unique and memorable dining experiences if you don't search beyond the hotel establishments. 

Spanish panaderías, or bakeries, have fresh baked goods, fat deli sandwiches, and traditional Spanish entrees such as caldo gallego and arroz con pollo.  You get strong and tasty Puerto Rican coffee, fresh juices, and frappes as well.  Fondas, basic restaurants with just a counter or a few tables, serve tasty local food at rock-bottom prices.  The city is one of the fast-food capitals of the world, with all the familiar American brands, but also more obscure regional favorites.  Street-food aficionados will also find solace in San Juan. 

The restaurants listed in this chapter are classified first by area and then by price, using the following categories: Very Expensive, dinner from $50 per person; Expensive, dinner from $35 per person; Moderate, dinner from $25 per person; and Inexpensive, dinner under $25 per person.  These categories reflect prices for an appetizer, a main course, a dessert, and a glass of wine. 

For much more on Puerto Rico's food scene, see chapter 2. 

San Juan's Best Dining Bets

• Best Splurge: Housed in a beautifully renovated building across the street from the Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico, Bistro de Paris takes elements of a classic Parisian bistro and kicks up the comfort level several notches.  This is classic French cuisine with innovative flourishes, prepared and served with love and precision by talented chefs and a near-perfect waitstaff.  Perla Restaurant, at Hotel La Concha, is a luminous, seashell-shaped restaurant, a delicate world of hand-blown glass lanterns and exotic furnishings—the perfect canvas for seafood and dancing. 

• Most Romantic: Try authentic Spanish tapas at El Picoteo, at Hotel El Convento, which spills along beautiful terraces and the interior courtyard of Old San Juan's most stunning historic property.  The restaurant boasts a choice of 80 kinds of tapas (the 35 we've tried did not disappoint, and we intend to work our way through the rest) as well as Spanish favorites like paella.  Set against a background of Spanish colonial facades and blooming tropical flowers, the food is as flavorful as the surroundings are stunning. 

• Best Bang for Your Buck: Bebo's Café has good comida criolla, plus steaks, sandwiches, and fruit frappes at incredibly low prices.  That's why it draws crowds despite its rather slow, if well-intentioned, service.  It's open all the time, nearly.  In Condado, Cafe Angel also serves tasty local food and U.S. standards at bargain-basement prices; while in Isla Verde, the go-to local option is Mi Casita, which also serves tropical comfort food and is easy on the wallet. 

• Best Service: Parrot Club wows taste buds with its modern interpretation of Puerto Rican specialties, but the service here is as noteworthy as the food.  The perfect repertoire of Puerto Rican and Spanish recipes is complemented by an always friendly, knowledgeable, and efficient staff that's genuinely happy to see you. 

• Puerto Rican Food: For uncut comida criolla just like abuela makes, go directly to El Jibarito in Old San Juan, or venture out to La Casita Blanca, where you can eat in a casa del campo right here in Santurce. 

• Best Tapas: Toro Salao serves classic Spanish tapas with modern twists, but it's still the type of place in which Don Ernesto would have felt right at home, with octopus ceviche, paella, and sangria.  El Picoteo, mentioned above, also serves authentic tapas from a Spanish colonial terrace overlooking a courtyard and the ever-interesting crowd on Calle Cristo.  Not to be outdone, Bar Gitano (.)  in Condado also combines a great authentic tapas selection, top-notch sangria, and other bar selections, and has the best servers in the business. 

• Best for Families: In the InterContinental San Juan Resort & Casino, Ciao Mediterranean Café offers an excellent and reasonably priced menu.  Many tables are placed on a private boardwalk adjacent to the beach.  Pizza and pasta are favorite dishes, and you can also choose from a large selection of other Mediterranean fare. 

• Best Late-Night Dining: With an after-hours menu that's available until dawn, Tantra is the place to go when midnight munchies strike.  This is where your waitress and bartender go when they get off of work.  Try some tandoori chicken kebabs, coconut sesame shrimp in a mango peach salsa, or fried calamari in tomato masala sauce.  Although the kitchen officially closes at 2am, it stays open until the crowd stops asking for more.  It's a good place to find out what's going on around town as well. 

• Best Steaks and Burgers: At BLT Steak, French chef Laurent Tourondel reinvents the American steakhouse with the classic cooking techniques of his homeland, serving up aged beef, other meats, and fresh seafood.  Sauces, sides, and desserts are all heavenly remakes of your father's favorite food, and it still tastes good today. 

• Best Burgers: El Hamburger is a smoky wooden shack with a great view of the crashing Atlantic and the juiciest, tastiest burgers in town.  It's no frills and full flavor, with golden fries, rings, and freezing cold beers and soft drinks.  With palm trees outside and classic salsa on the jukebox, this is the real local burger joint, packed from noon to midnight. 

• Best Seafood: Vibrant Aguaviva creates delicious seafood dishes at the coolest corner in Old San Juan, where Fortaleza Street meets Plaza Colon.  For a great seafood lunch, Tasca del Pescador in Santurce serves the best fish in town at reasonable prices, but it's lunch only. 

Old San Juan

Old San Juan Hotels & Restaurants

For the locations of Old San Juan restaurants, see the "Old San Juan Hotels & Restaurants" map. 

Very Expensive

Aquaviva ★ LATINO/SEAFOOD This cool, turquoise-colored restaurant has shimmering stained-glass aquaviva (jellyfish), bioluminescent drinks, and a sleek raw bar.  The raw bar offers oysters and ceviches, including the extraordinary spicy tomato mahimahi, and a citrus grouper with yellow aji peppers.  The hot (fried oysters, coco-flavored shrimp, crab fritters, codfish puffs, and fried calamari) and cold (a dozen oysters, chilled mussels and shrimp, and a ceviche selection) appetizer towers are great for small groups.  The best main courses include grilled guava mahimahi, wild salmon in a spinach guiso with white corn arepas and tomato marmalade, and fried whole red snapper with chicarron butter and lobster mofongo. 

Calle Fortaleza 364.    787/722-0665.  Reservations not accepted.  Main courses $17–$34, Towers $36-68, Ceviche Tasting: $17 for 2.  AE, MC, V. Lunch daily 11am–4pm; dinner Mon–Wed 6–11pm, Thurs–Sat 6pm–midnight, Sun 4–11pm.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

Marmalade Restaurant and Wine Bar ★★ INTERNATIONAL Chef-owner Peter Schintler is a culinary globetrotter who blends flavors from China to France into his distinct culinary brand.  The ultracontemporary restaurant, wine bar, and lounge suits the menu, which its creator calls "California-French" or "Cuisine de Terre."  The restaurant is a labor of love, and it's evident in the flavors and attention to detail.  The spicy chorizo and smoked chicken paella bites and the red snapper citrus avocado ceviche are great starters.  Follow up with such stunners as grilled, macadamia-nut tuna and beef tenderloin with a roasted mushroom and cheese gratin, and this may be one of the best meals you'll have on your trip.  There's a popular tasting menu with wine pairings.  The kitchen is as consistent as it is inventive. 

Calle Fortaleza 317.    787/724-3969.  Main courses $25–$36.  AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 6pm–midnight; Fri–Sat 6pm–2am; Sun 6–10pm.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

Expensive

Carli's Fine Bistro & Piano ★ INTERNATIONAL This stylish restaurant serving up fine cuisine and music is owned by Carli Muñoz.  That gold disc you see hanging in the restaurant is from Carli's past role as a pianist for the Beach Boys.  Nowadays, he entertains his dinner guests nightly with a combination of standards, romantic jazz, and original material on his grand piano, or along with a small jazz combo.  Diners can sit outside on the Plazoleta, where they can enjoy a panoramic view of the bay, or they can eat inside against a backdrop of tasteful decor of terra-cotta walls and black marble tables.  There is a wide selection of tapas and appetizers, including a plantain-crusted calamari in a dark sesame sauce.  Entrees include a salmon and shrimp linguini in a creamy brandy sauce, rosemary jus lamb chops, and blackened ahi tuna with Cajun spices.  The bar, with its mahogany and brass fittings, is an ideal spot to chill out.  The concert starts every night at 8pm. 

Edificio Banco Popular, Calle Tetuán 206, off Plazoleta Rafael Carrión.    787/725-4927.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $14–$36.  AE, V. Mon–Fri 3:30–11pm; Sat 4–11:30pm.  Bus: M2 or M3. 

J Taste JAPANESE Delicious sushi, teppanyaki, teriyaki, and tempura dishes, and absolutely charming service.  This place is smartly minimalist.  Different meats, such as breaded pork, BBQ eel, or beef are served with rice in hot ceramic pots with different seasonings, and there are adventurous noodle dishes, from shrimp tempura soup to pan-fried noodles with chicken.  There are great soups and salads, edamame, grilled pepper tuna, and beef skewers to start.  A specialty is the beef and seafood meals cooked on an antique stone right at your table, and the teppanyaki chefs are first-rate showmen and chefs.  With really wonderful service and a great ambience, this place delivers on all levels. 

Calle Recinto Sur 307.    787/724-4003.  Reservations not necessary.  Main courses $12–$32.  AE, MC.  Mon–Thurs noon–11pm; Fri–Sat noon–midnight; Sun noon–10pm.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

Parrot Club ★ NUEVO LATINO/CARIBBEAN This bistro and baris bright and colorful, as inventive as its Nuevo Latino cuisine, which, like the setting, delivers a new take on Puerto Rican and Cuban traditions.  Latin cookery, a delicious blend of Spanish, Taíno, and African influence, combines with genuinely friendly and efficient service to set it apart from much of the competition.  Start out with coriander crab fritters accompanied by Caribbean tartar sauce or the stewed beef and root vegetable nachos.  Ceviche lovers might opt for the excellent tuna, salmon, and mahimahi ceviche, with lime and charred tomato.  Main-course standouts include grilled churrasco with yellow tomato chimichurri and sautéed potatoes, and the plantain-crusted mahimahi with sweet yellow pepper beurre blanc sauce and Peruvian potatoes.  You have to try the "Parrot Passion" drink, made from lemon-flavored rum, triple sec, oranges, and passion fruit. 

Calle Fortaleza 363.    787/725-7370.  Reservations not accepted.  Main courses $10–$23 lunch, $18–$29 dinner.  AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–4pm and 6–11pm.  Closed 2 weeks in Sept. Bus: Old City Trolley. 

Sofia Italian Kitchen & Wine Bar ITALIAN This trattoria transports you to Rome with its courtyard, arched doorways, exposed red brick, and mahogany bar.  While the spot is still a charmer, the service and kitchen have been a bit erratic, although at last check they had both been on the rise.  The quintessential Italian cuisine, as well as photographs and pop-art paintings, pay homage to the gorgeous Sophia Loren, with lush, delicate designer pizzas; lusty pastas such as the seafood linguini in a light tomato sauce; entrees such as pork tenderloin in gorgonzola and pear-walnut sauce; as well as several excellent steak and seafood dishes. 

Calle San Francisco 355.    787/721-0396.  Reservations recommended at night.  Main courses $18–$27, pastas $17–$24, pizzas $14–$16.  AE, DC, MC, V. Mon 4–10:30pm; Tues–Thurs and Sun noon–10:30pm; Fri–Sat noon–11pm. 

Toro Salao ★ SPANISH TAPAS With a dark wood interior and a Spanish colonial facade, bullfighting posters, and splashes of red, this is the kind of place Ernest Hemingway would have written home about.  Toro Salao, "the salty bull" in Spanish, is another restaurant by Emilio Figueroa and Gigi Zaferos (owners/creators of the Parrot Club, Dragonfly, and Aguaviva, among others) that seamlessly matches the cuisine with the restaurant ambience.  There's something for everyone, so it's a great place to bring the whole family.  Gorge on flatbread pizza with artichokes and Mediterranean olives; a papas bravas (spicy potatoes) redux that isn't overly spicy; and seared octopus with sun-dried tomato vinaigrette.  There's nothing better than the crisp and clean mussels in a chunky green salsa and the sweet veal meatballs with romesco sauce and plantains.  Full meals include paella seafood with chicken and sausage, seared pork with coriander mojo, and classic churrasco.  Order a pitcher of sangria, among San Juan's finest.  There are several inventive varieties, including a tropical fruit version, which add flavor without ever losing the essence of this Spanish tavern standard. 

Calle Tetuan 367.    787/722-3330.  Reservations not accepted.  Tapas $6–$25; main courses $16–$25.  AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 6pm–midnight.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

Trois Cent Onze (311) FRENCH Occupied for years by the photography studio that developed many of Puerto Rico's earliest movies, the building that now houses the premier French restaurant in Old San Juan revealed its hidden treasures when it was renovated to a restaurant.  Buried beneath layers of bad architecture and tastelessly-executed interior design, they discovered some of the most beautiful Moorish–Andalusian tile-work in San Juan's Old City.  Because of those tiles, and because of the delicate Andalusian-style iron rosette above the door, they wisely decided to retain the area's Moorish embellishments during the reconfiguration of their restaurant's decor.  What you'll get today is Casbah-style atmosphere, complete with a zinc bar near the entrance, a soaring and richly beamed ceiling, and decor reminiscent of old Tangiers.  Colors, textures, and flavors combine here to produce an irresistible array of dishes. 

Calle Fortaleza 311.    787/725-7959.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $24–$35.  AE, MC, V. Tues–Thurs noon–2:30pm and 6:30–10pm; Fri–Sat noon–2:30pm and 6–11pm; Sun noon–10pm.  Bus: Old City Trolley, T2, or 2. 

  The Intoxicating Aroma of Local Coffee

A coffee break in Old San Juan might last an afternoon.  Taza (cup) after taza of Puerto Rico's rich brew will make you desert Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee or Hawaiian Kona forever.  The rich local coffees are from beans grown in Puerto Rico's lush, mountainous heartland, in towns such as Adjuntas and Jayuya, Maricao, and Las Marías.  There are a growing number of fashionable cafes that offer fine local coffees, as well as gourmet brands from around the world.  However, just about anywhere you go that serves coffee will serve a rich local brew (including Starbucks, McDonald's, and Burger King!).  Try Caficultura (  787/723-7731), a gorgeous new spot on a shady corner of Plaza Colón; the Cuatro Sombras (Calle Recinto Sur 259;   787/724-9955), a great cafe and microroastery; or the Cuatro Estaciones (Plaza de las Armas; no phone), the outdoor cafe on the western end of Old San Juan's central plaza, adjacent to the State Department. 

Joaquin Pastor grows delicious coffee on his farm in Ciales, harvests, and then hand roasts the beans before bringing it to his Old San Juan cafe, Finca Cialitos (Calle San Justo 150;   939/207-9998).  This award-winning coffee is grown on the northern outskirts of the Toro Negro cloud forest, and is as rich as the landscape in which it was born.  Get immersed in the coffee-making process and enjoy the final, perfect result of a coffee made with pure passion and hard work.  It's all about customized care, which brings out the coffee's natural characteristics, drawn from its particular region,according to Joaquin. 

Outside the Old City, right in the heart of the Santurce Arts District, is Hacienda San Pedro (Av.  De Diego 318, Santurce; www.cafehsp.com;   787/993-1871), which roasts on site the delicious coffee grown at the owners' family plantation in Jayuya.  When ordering, ask for café con leche (with milk), puya (unsweetened), negrito con azúcar (black and sweetened), or cortao (black with a dash of milk). 

Moderate

Al Dente SICILIAN/ITALIAN This friendly and accommodating bar and Italian bistro is bathed in scarlets and blues, a cool respite from the steamy Old San Juan streets that has made it a fixture for 2 decades.  The bistecca alla Fiorentina is delicious, as is the homemade ravioli, calamari with polenta, and arancini di spinachi fritti (an old Sicilian specialty and one of the restaurant's bestsellers—spinach balls with rice, ricotta cheese, and pink sauce).  The chicken contadina is also a great dish.  The kitchen can hit an occasional sour note in its execution, but most diners leave happy. 

Calle Recinto Sur 309.    787/723-7303.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $16–$29.  AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–10:30pm; Fri–Sat 11:30–11pm.  Bus: Old Town Trolley. 

Bodega Chic ★   FRENCH BISTRO This small French/Algerian bistro blends delicious Mediterranean and Caribbean herbs and flavors, reasonable prices, and unpretentious friendly service.  Chef and partner Christophe Gourdain trained with chef Jean-Georges Vonegerichten, and he learned well.  Start out with the baked goat cheese croustillant with eggplant caviar and the grilled calamari.  The hangar steak with sautéed potatoes and string beans is as close to perfection as the fresh mussels Provençal.  The braised lamb shank is also worth a try, and the roasted chicken breast in curry banana sauce is much better than it sounds.  The high-ceilinged dining room and small adjacent bar room open out onto Calle Cristo just around the corner from the popular Calle San Sebastián.  There's homey local memorabilia plastered on the walls. 

Calle Cristo 51.    787/722-0124.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $15–$26.  AE, MC, V. Tues–Fri 6pm–midnight; Sun 11:30am–4pm.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

Café Berlin INTERNATIONAL This central European-style cafe is housed in a comfortable room with huge glass windows overlooking the charming Plaza Colón, and there's also a sidewalk cafe in front.  It feels like a bit of Vienna, with its tiny marble-top tables, transplanted to the tropics.  There are big breakfasts and tasty entrees and sandwiches, with an emphasis on healthy and fresh ingredients, including several vegetarian choices.  The stewed eggplant in criollo sauce and the salmon tropical (with mango and balsamic vinegar sauce) are excellent, and the grilled tofu kebabs with guava barbecue sauce and the grilled vegetable parrillada are as scrumptious as the real thing.  There are also delicious salads and fresh fruit frappes, as well as a beautiful bar with a nice collection of Bavarian beer.  Breakfasts offer fresh fruits and healthy cereals to full platters of fried eggs, potatoes, and sausages; and for dessert, how about hazelnut soy ice cream? 

Plaza de Colón 407.    787/722-5205.  Main courses $11–$30; breakfast $3.50–$12.  AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–10pm; Sat–Sun 8am–10pm.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

Café Puerto Rico CREOLE/PUERTO RICAN This small and friendly restaurant offers flavorful bargains and outdoor seating right on Plaza de Colón.  Inside, there are ceiling fans, beamed ceilings, and tile floors, and the constant whir of a blender mixing up tropical fruit drinks.  The menu features hearty regional fare.  Tasty options include whole red snapper, paella, and chicken and rice.  Of course, if you're getting hungry during a day of strolling Old San Juan's winding streets, don't wait for dinner—you'll enjoy a lunch break here, too.  A great spot for reasonably priced tropical drinks, sangria, and wine. 

Calle O'Donnell 208.    787/724-2281.  Main courses $10–$21.  AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–3pm, 5:30–10:45pm; Sun noon–9pm.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

Caficultura ★ CAFE/BISTRO This beautiful "espresso bar and marketplace kitchen" on Plaza Colón is a fitting temple to the richness of Puerto Rican coffee, and also offers fresh and flavorful food.  A "less is more" approach is evident in everything from its stonewashed walls and tiled floors, wooden doors and furnishings, to its select and satisfying menu of Puerto Rican coffee, beer, wine, and alcoholic beverages.  You can always get a cortadito (espresso topped with steamed milk) or some guayaba cake.  Breakfast options include smoked ham and eggs, coconut French toast, and fruit salads.  Gourmet sandwiches are offered for lunch, including roast beef loin with baked tomato and caramelized onion or turkey breast with manchego cheese and bacon and spring salad.  On weekend evenings, the menu includes things like a juicy churrasco with sautéed vegetables and pasta as tasty as it is unusual, and a penne with chicken and broccoli in manchego cheese and root vegetable cream sauce.  The baristas and waitstaff are charming..Like the best of Old San Juan, Caficultura pays homage to Puerto Rican tradition while staying very current. 

Calle San Francisco 401, Plaza Colón Old San Juan.    787/723-7731.  Reservations not necessary.  Evening tapas $3.50–$18, lunch $6.25–$12, breakfast $2.75–$8.50.  AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 8am–5pm; Fri–Sun 8am–10pm.  Bus: Old San Juan Trolley 5 cierre 8. 

Dragonfly ★★ LATIN/ASIAN FUSION One of San Juan's hottest restaurants, the place has been compared to both an Old San Francisco bordello and a Shanghai opium den.  These descriptions evoke as much the lusty appeal and addictive power of Dragonfly's cuisine as the red-walled interior, a world of fringed lamps and gilded mirrors behind beaded curtains.  It's good for a late meal, as the portion sizes, called platos, or plates, are somewhere between appetizers and entrees.  The Asian marinated churrasco with wasabi fries and the amarillo (sweet plaintain) dumplings in citrus dipping sauce are must-haves.  Other standouts: halibut in miso honey sauce with yucca-bacon croquettes, tempura rock shrimp tacos, and Chino Latino lo mein with Puerto Rican fried chicken chunks.  This is the island's first Latin–Asian menu, and it remains one of the best anywhere.  There is a lounge, full sushi bar, and a small dining room. 

Calle Fortaleza 364.    787/977-3886.  Reservations not accepted.  Main courses $12–$25.  AE, MC, V. Mon–Wed 6–11pm; Thurs–Sat 6pm–midnight.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

El Patio de Sam AMERICAN/PUERTO RICAN Established in 1953, this legendary establishment often misses on its main dishes, but its burgers and finger food are the perfect complement for this legendary hangout, which lives off its intriguing conversation and great local art.  The juicy burgers are the mainstay.  It's not that the arroz con pollo (chicken with rice Puerto Rican style), Latino style steaks, and paella are bad, just uninspired.  Hipsters from Hunter S. Thompson to Allen Ginsburg have all hoisted a few back here.  Their renowned auras influence the atmosphere of the place, as does the great music (anything from Latin jazz to ballads) on Friday and Saturday night and the prints by some of the island's best artists of the last 50 years.  Right across the street from Plaza San José, there's always a party going on.  The front bar area is a bit cramped, but the main dining room is in the huge, airy covered courtyard in the back. 

Calle San Sebastián 102 (across from the Iglesia de San José).    787/723-1149.  Sandwiches, burgers, and salads $9–$11; platters $13–$35.  AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily noon–midnight.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

El Picoteo ★★   SPANISH Spilling across a front and interior terrace overlooking the courtyard of the historic El Convento Hotel, this is the best place in the Old City to savor some drinks and tapas while watching the action near Calle San Sebastián.  On most nights, there's a parade of people walking up and down Calle Cristo in front of the restaurant as they go back and forth to the bars and restaurants just up the hill.  The spicy potatoes (papas bravas), shrimp in garlic sauce, and the brick oven pizza are all great, and there are also full meals, such as seafood paella.  With 80 tapas to choose from, there's also real Spanish flavor here, in such dishes as garbanzo salad, sausages, various ceviches, fresh octopus, and the best selection of cheese in the city.  The setting amid Spanish colonial facades and wildly blooming bougainvillea is one of the Old City's most charming.  It's equally inviting for a weekend lunch.  Try the champagne-laced sangria. 

In El Convento Hotel, Calle del Cristo 100.    787/723-9202.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $6–$32; paella $20–$35.  AE, MC, V. Tues–Sun noon–midnight.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

Inarú PUERTO RICAN/CARIBBEAN This beautiful restaurant looks to match the soul of comida criollo with other regional traditions, and while it may not exactly fulfill this lofty culinary proposition, it offers a tasty culinary experience to guests nonetheless.  The coconut shrimp grow from a sofrito base, and the red snapper, salmon, and chicken entrees are married to local flavors like cassaba and other root vegetables, dark rum, and island vinaigrette.  Classic goat stew and a fisherman's broth of clams, mussels, scallops, and lobster were among the recent specials.  This may not be a first choice for lunch or dinner in Old San Juan, but you'll enjoy the meal here just the same, and will likely return your next time in town.  Don't come here if you are in a hurry—service is friendly and warm, but timed for a lingering stay. 

Recinto Sur 311.    787/236-7407.  Reservations not necessary.  Main courses $15–$34.  AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

Melao CARIBBEAN This bayside spot on the outskirts of the Old City has created its own brand of local fusion cuisine that is super flavorful and mellow on the wallet at the same time.  The menu offers gourmet-upped pub fare and entrees on par with the much more pretentious and expensive restaurants in the Old City.  The place doesn't close till their customers say it's okay.  There are changing variations on red snapper and pork loin, lamb chops, and classic pastas; starters such as lobster ravioli and codfish kisses; and absolutely delicious desserts, such as crème brûlée and pistachio cheesecake.  The pizza, burgers, and finger foods are also two cuts above the ordinary.  Beverages include wonderful mojitos, fresh fruit frappes, and blender drinks.  It's great to see so much being done in a small space, which has a breezy outdoor bayside terrace for dining.  There is often live music on Saturday nights. 

Cond.  Capitolio Plaza, Ste.  201, Calle del Muelle, Viejo San Juan.    787/721-7160.  Reservations not necessary.  Main courses $7.95–$25.  Mon–Tues 11am–3pm; Wed–Fri 11 am–10pm; Fri 11am–11pm; Sat 3–11pm.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

Old Harbor Brewery Steak and Lobster House AMERICAN San Juan's only microbrewery also has top-drawer tavern fare in an upscale mariner setting.  Brewmaster Brad Mortensen handcrafts five distinct house beers, as well as seven seasonal beers, on the premises in state-of-the-art brewing facilities.  The restaurant specializes in top-quality steaks and fresh Puerto Rican spiny lobster.  Caribbean lobster is lighter than Maine lobster, and the version served here is among the best on the island (go with the citrus beurre blanc sauce rather than the coconut, almond-spiced rum).  The rich French onion and lobster bisque soup are rich and hearty, and rather a rarity in the Caribbean.  The Santo Viejo pilsner and Old Harbor pale ale are first rate.  The restaurant dates to the 1920s, when it housed the New York Federal Bank, and it was beautifully restored before opening.  A classic tavern setup surrounds the elegant brew vats, but the place is formal, with fully dressed tables, classic black and white tiles, and metal and wood finishings. 

Calle Tizol 202 (near Recinto Sur).    787/721-2100.  Reservations recommended.  Platters and main courses $14–$38.  AE, MC, V. Daily 8am–7pm.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

Patio del Nispero INTERNATIONAL Set in a beautiful courtyard surrounded by the soaring atrium of Old San Juan's most historic hotel, this restaurant is a charming oasis of calm and quiet.  It gets its name from a towering century-old fruit tree in the patio, which is filled with verdant plants thriving under the direct sunlight of the open sky.  No one will mind if you order just a drink (the daiquiris are excellent) or a cup of coffee while resting after a tour of the Old Town or the cathedral next door.  It's breakfast and lunch only, and offerings include everything from Eggs Benedict to banana nut pancakes, gazpacho soup to American burgers, and daily specials of Puerto Rican and Italian comfort food.  This is also a nice spot to take a break after a day of shopping.  Formal events and parties are held here in evenings. 

In the El Convento hotel, Calle del Cristo 100.    787/723-9020.  Reservations not necessary.  Sandwiches $7.50–$24.  AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 9am–3:30pm.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

Raíces ★ PUERTO RICAN Don't let the apparent touristy trappings fool you; it's not the cheapest meal in town, but it's among the tastiest and most authentic, and we recommend it for a big taste of Puerto Rican cuisine.  The rustic Puerto Rican setting—beautifully outfitted with local arts and crafts—is complemented by the folkloric dress of the waitresses and waiters.  It's a perfect fit for its location near the cruise-ship docks, but the first location was in Caguas, which is decidedly untouristy.  The "typical festival" combines a number of classic island treats, such as meat turnovers, stuffed fried plantain fritters, codfish fritters, and mashed cassava, but you'll also want to try the delicious plantain soup.  The stuffed mofongo entrees are the real specialty here; along with the typical stuffed chicken or shrimp, the options range to breaded pork, skirt steak, and Creole-style mahimahi.  If you want hearty fare, the chicken or shrimp asopao is another option.  The coconut flan and guava cheesecake do not disappoint.  Traditional Puerto Rican music further enhances the experience. 

Calle Recinto Sur 315.    787/289-2121.  Reservations not necessary.  Main courses $10–$26.  AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–4pm and 6–11pm; Sat 11am–11pm; Sun noon–10pm.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

Tantra   INDO-LATINO Here you can sway to world music, enjoy the culinary cultural clash, and forget what country you are in.  Set in the heart of "restaurant row" on Calle Fortaleza, this restaurant on the first floor and courtyard of a Spanish colonial mansion is decorated in Asian colors and handicrafts with Hindu and Buddhist imagery.  The ethnic setting fits the sophisticated fusion of Latino with South Indian cuisine, a blend of slow-cooked tandoori with Puerto Rico–derived flavors, from chef and owner, India-born Ramesh Pillai.  The sesame masala–crusted tuna sushi with peanut sauce is as good as it sounds; other raves include fried-coconut and sesame jumbo shrimp with Indian noodles, and rice and chicken rolls with passion-fruit sauce.  The house tandoori chicken sticks to tradition but then throws in manchego and mozzarella cheese, guayaba fruit, guava-flavored dip, and naan.  There are also belly-dancing shows on many nights.  Because the kitchen stays open late on weekends, it's also a place for drinks and late-night snacks for local hipsters and tourists on the prowl.  The bar is often packed till the wee hours.  An appropriate way to begin a meal here is to order one of the best martinis we've ever had—a concoction flavored with cinnamon and cloves. 

Calle Fortaleza 356.    787/977-8141.  Reservations only for groups.  Main courses $13–$25.  AE, MC, V. Sun–Thurs noon–midnight; Fri–Sat noon–1:30am.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

Vaca Brava ★ STEAK/PUERTO RICAN Few places could have filled the void, and 13,500-square-foot interior, left by the closing of the former Old San Juan Hard Rock Cafe better than this big-hearted jibaro steakhouse.  Now if you fret over details, and want a refined menu and conversation for dinner, this ain't your spot; but if big flavorful platters, friendly service, and loud live jazz and pop music sound appealing, you'll have a great time here.  The standard cuts, from the churrasco to the rib-eye, will satisfy most, but it's the brontosaurus-sized, grilled-meat platters, which will take well more than one person to down, that draw the long lines and large groups.  The toten de la vaca is a tower of chicken breast wrapped in churrasco and bacon, while la vaca arropa is a paella with different cuts of steak and meat.  Start out with plato de la vaca, a mix of fried Puerto Rican turnovers, and if you are with a group, you can wash it back with a minikeg of Medalla, the local light beer, which is brought right to your table.  If you haven't done enough damage yet, end it all with the fried flautas filled with cheesecake and ice cream.  This spot was born in the mountain town of Barranquitas, but many tourists who ventured there complained about the long drive and longer lines.  Now that Vaca Brava is in Old San Juan, it's easy to try the steak that Adam Richman of Man vs. Food flew down here to tame. 

Calle Recinto Sur 253.    787/723-3700.  Reservations not accepted.  Main courses $13–$35; platters $30–$53.  AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–11pm, Thurs–Sat 11am–midnight, Sun 11am–10pm.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

Verde Mesa ★ HEALTHY GOURMET This restaurant aims to change the world "a mouthful" at a time, and after an easygoing meal here, you'll become a believer.  High-quality, fresh, local food is served in a beautiful, pastoral dining room.  Everything here is crafted by hand, from the breads to the sauces to the salads, and artfully prepared to bring out the full flavor.  The couple behind the restaurant treats guests like treasured friends over for dinner.  Don't expect to eat in a hurry, but if you want to relax and enjoy healthy food without sacrificing its deliciousness, this is the place.  A large variety of daily specials are on offer, but specialties include the Verde Mesa rice sautéed with vegetables, walnuts, and cranberries, or the couscous Niçoise, with tuna, olives, and asparagus.  Start out with the ratatouille, or have the most delicious eggplant salad you will ever eat.  There are excellent teas and fruit drinks, and the desserts are also great, from the carrot cake with Estragon glaze to the homemade chocolate mousse. 

Calle Tetuán 254, Old San Juan.    787/306-4668.  Main courses $12–$24.  MC, V. Mon–Sat 6–10pm.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

Inexpensive

Ben & Jerry's   ICE CREAM/CAFE This is a great place, not just for the young, but the young at heart.  Decorated in early college dorm room style, it's the perfect place to put some Cherry Garcia, Chunky Monkey, and Imagine Whirled Peace in your mouth.  You can also have meals, with stuff like sandwiches, wraps, and salads.  There are also great baked breads, cakes, cookies, and other goods, local coffee, and fruit drinks.  And then there's the free Wi-Fi, a house computer, and cool music and magazines.  Check for special events, such as story readings for children. 

Calle del Cristo 61.    787/977-6882.  Ice cream and meals $3.95–$9.95.  Sun–Wed 11am–10pm, Fri–Sat 11am–11pm Bus: Old City Trolley. 

Cuatro Sombras CAFE An excellent local cafe and microroastery that serves a rich, medium-bodied coffee from the southwest mountain town of Yauco, plus panini, croissants, and specialty coffee drinks.  The coffee is roasted right on site, and the aroma allows you to start enjoying the coffee from the second you enter. 

Calle Recinto Sur 259, Old San Juan.    787/724-9955.  Pastries and snacks $3–$10.  MC, V. Mon–Fri 8am–7pm, Sat–Sun 10:30am–6pm.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

El Jibarito   PUERTO RICAN This is a bustling local restaurant beloved by many sanjuaneros for making food like their mothers used to make.  Its walls hold scenes of Old San Juan streets and the Puerto Rican countryside, which along with the rich flavors of the food served here, pay tribute to the backgrounds of owners Pedro and Aida Ruiz.  This is a pleasant Old City dining room with reasonable prices, friendly service, and a tasty cube steak with onions, conch salad, oven-baked grouper, fried red snapper in garlic, as well as stuffed mofongo and other local specialties.  Side orders could include rice and beans, fried plantains, and island staples such as rice and gandules or a whopping portion of mofongo (chopped plantains with oil and seasonings).  There is no better way to end a meal here than a slice of coconut flan.  It's an unpretentious place, with polite and helpful service. 

Old San Juan, Calle del Sol 280.    787/725-8375.  Reservations not necessary.  Main courses $8–$25.  Sandwiches, snacks available.  AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 10am–9pm.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

Puerta de Tierra

Puerta de Tierra, Miramar, Condado & Ocean Park Hotels & Restaurants

For the locations of restaurants in Puerta de Tierra, see the map "Puerta de Tierra, Miramar, Condado & Ocean Park Hotels & Restaurants." 

Expensive

Lemongrass Restaurant PAN ASIAN Ensconced in a modern Zen-inspired structure, overlooking the lush grounds and ponds of a remote section of Puerto Rico's oldest resort, this restaurant is the perfect setting for local culinary star Mario Pagan's Asian Latino musings.  You can watch the graceful swans from the main lounge or outside garden terrace while devouring entrees with a delicate arrangement of flavors, such as the sea scallop and lamb cakes with caramelized sesame mustard sauce, the churrasco and cilantro pesto with wonton chips, or the shrimp lo-mein in green mango sauce.  There's also a sushi bar, with incredible combinations such as truffled crab and green papaya or tempura lobster and avocado, as well as a champagne lounge and standard bar.  The setting is impressive, and the restaurant has a modern yet natural minimalism that puts the surroundings on full display.  Be prepared to linger; this is a very good place for a romantic meal. 

Puerta de Tierra, Caribe Hilton, Calle Los Rosales.    787/724-5888.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $27–$33.  Daily 5:30–10:30pm.  AE, MC, V. Bus: B21. 

Morton's of Chicago ★ STEAKHOUSE Morton's famous steaks are served in a dazzling room overlooking the ocean, with service that matches the setting.  The chain of gourmet steakhouses was founded in 1978 by Arnie Morton, former executive vice president of the Playboy empire.  Beef lovers, from Al Gore to Liza Minnelli, know they'll get quality meats perfectly cooked at Morton's.  Carts laden with everything from prime Midwestern beefsteaks to succulent lamb or veal chops are wheeled around for your selection, but prime rib lovers will want to try it here; a 24-ounce porterhouse is another specialty worthy of the hype.  Fresh and delicious seafood and vegetable dishes, shellfish, and chicken, round out the menu.  Nothing beats the house shrimp cocktail or smoked Pacific salmon for starters.  For dessert, gravitate to one of the soufflés, such as raspberry or Grand Marnier.  There are frequent specials and a beautiful bar known for its stiff drinks and smart conversation. 

In the Caribe Hilton, Calle Los Rosales.    787/977-6262.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $28–$60.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5:30–11pm Sun 5:30–10pm.  Bus: B21. 

Inexpensive

El Hamburger ★   LIGHT FARE This no-frills burger stand offers tasty grilled burgers and hot dogs, cold beer, and perfectly golden french fries and onion rings.  From its perch overlooking the Atlantic on the oceanfront drive into San Juan, the grill has become a late-night local favorite for those leaving the bars of Old San Juan, and is also popular for a bite during work or after the beach.  A really good, cheap opportunity to soak up some real local atmosphere, the ramshackle wooden establishment is the kind of burger joint that has disappeared throughout much of the United States with the advent of the modern fast-food restaurant.  One of its joys lives on here with a selection of condiments—from onions to relish, to thick tomatoes, to pickles—which is brought to your table with your burger.  There's a patch of palm trees on the undeveloped coastal bluff across the street, and the ocean breeze flows all through the white wooden building.  It's always packed, but service is still super fast and the conversation animated.  The jukebox blasts salsa hits of yesteryear. 

Muñoz Rivera 402.    787/721-4269.  Reservations not accepted.  Burgers from $3.50.  Cash only.  Sun–Thurs 11am–11pm; Fri–Sat 11am–1am.  Bus: A5, M1. 

Condado

For the locations of Condado restaurants, see the map "Puerta de Tierra, Miramar, Condado & Ocean Park Hotels & Restaurants." 

Very Expensive

Budatai ★ LATIN/ASIAN Puerto Rico's "Iron Chef" mixes local flavors with Asian ingredients to deliver one of San Juan's finest dining experiences.  Beautifully situated in an Art Deco town house overlooking the oceanfront Windows to the Sea park, Budatai's muted brown interior is as stylish as the designer boutiques surrounding it.  With wall-sized windows inside and a rooftop terrace, diners have great views and are pampered with oversized tables and leather chairs.  Chef Roberto Trevino, who fell just short against Mario Batali on the Food Network's Iron Chef America (the secret ingredient was catfish), reworks the Nuevo Latino and Asian fusion concepts he developed at Old San Juan's Parrot Club, Dragonfly, and Aguaviva restaurants and kicks up the portion sizes.  The soy-glazed salmon with coconut hash main course artfully balances the salty and sweet, while the veal sirloin with lobster-mashed Asian potatoes is as rich as it sounds.  The waitstaff is friendly, efficient, and knowledgeable about the menu and extensive wine list.  The second-floor bar and lounge is a hot spot for the city's young and beautiful, especially on weekends. 

Av.  Ashford 1056, Condado.    787/725-6919.  Main courses $24–$40.  AE MC, V. Mon–Wed 11:30am–11pm; Thurs–Sat 11:30am–midnight; Sun 11:30am–10pm.  Bus: A5, C53. 

Casa Lola Criollo Kitchen ★ PUERTO RICAN The food and setting here provide a modern update on classic Puerto Rican culture, cutting edge nuevo Puerto Rican cuisine in a vibrant restoration of a turn-of-the-last-century mansion on the Condado Lagoon.  The restaurant is huge, with porch dining and outdoor balcony areas, while the main dining room is a mix of purple, mahogany, and muted green-gold tones, with bejeweled portraits by local artist Carlos Mercado.  The menu is daring and the portions big.  Reinventions that work include chicken and rice meatballs, fried cheese in a sweet lechosa sauce, arepas with garlic shrimp, Mexican steak and crab pâté, and fried shark cubes in a local hot sauce and lime.  The pork chop (chuletón), with a cilantro lime rice and tomato demi-glaze sauce, is as tasty as it is thick, and the filet mignon, served with mashed apio, eggplant caviar, and "Barcardi ocho," an aged reserve rum sauce, captures the spirit of the spot.  It's stylish and tasty, but pricey.  The four-course $25 lunch, which includes a local beer, is the most affordable way to enjoy this restaurant. 

Ave.  Ashford 1096, Condado.    787/998-2918.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $28–40.  AE, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–1am.  Bus: B21. 

Niché   LATIN FUSION This small restaurant inside an Asian garden makes a big impression.  Its spare design, employing natural wood, glass, and metal, makes it feel much bigger than it is, and the short menu hits its targets right on.  You stroll through the lobby of the quiet guesthouse on a residential block steps from the choicest beach in Condado to get here, leaving the impression you've stumbled onto a fabulous dinner party.  The Kobe pork chop is served with spinach, roast peppers, provolone, and black truffle fries, and the mustard-crusted rack of lamb is just as glorious.  Start out with the lobster mango salad or coconut curry shrimp.  Breakfasts range from New York City–style bagels to a basil, goat cheese, and shallot omelet to a build-your-own breakfast pizza. 

At the Acacia Boutique Hotel, Calle Taft 8.    787/727-2023, ext.  129.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $32–$48, breakfast $5–$24.  AE, MC, V. Daily 6–11pm.  Bus: A5. 

Perla ★ SEAFOOD This seashell-shaped restaurant on the beach shimmers with light.  It's the perfect setting for Dayn Smith's "urbane" cuisine, with a menu that skims effortlessly from Arctic char to lamb chops.  The dining room is infused with an ocean motif, with blue light reflecting on its pale furnishings and ceiling, as its windows curve along the outlines of its shell facade to look out on surrounding reflecting pools and the Atlantic; you you may find yourself floating through your meal.  Start out with the scallops, sausage and mushroom appetizer or the grilled coconut curry prawns over a risotto cake.  I find it impossible not to eat seafood here, whether it's the seared tuna in spicy peppercorn sauce or its signature surf and turf, with a filet mignon served in a bacon port reduction and a lobster tail in a classic berre blanc sauce.  However, there are great alternatives from lamb chops with lentil stew to roasted duck breasts.  The place isn't cheap, but you'll have a memorable meal here, for its unique setting as much as the food. 

At Hotel La Concha, Av.  Ashford 1077,   787/721-7500, ext 6800.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $25-60; AE, MC, V. Sun-Thurs 6pm--10pm; Fri-Sat 6pm-11pm.  Bus: B21, C53. 

Pikayo ★★★   PUERTO RICAN FUSION This is an ideal place to go to experience the next generation of Puerto Rican fusion cuisine.  Pikayo not only keeps up with the latest culinary trends, but it also often sets them, thanks to the inspired guidance of owner and celebrity chef Wilo Benet.  Formal but not stuffy, and winner of more culinary awards than virtually any other restaurant in Puerto Rico, Benet makes Pikayo all about bringing his hometown cuisine to new glories.  No appetizer has ever disappointed, from escargot in a wild mushroom fricassee, tuna "pegao" in a chipotle chili sauce, and cheese empanadillas with truffle mojito.  The adventure continues through the main courses, with salmon in a tomato puree and black olive tapenade, and veal scaloppine with sweet pea risotto in a marsala wine sauce. 

At the Conrad Condado Plaza, Ashford 999.    787/721-6194.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $34–$42.  AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 6–11pm.  Bus: B21, C53. 

Expensive

Bar Gitano ★ SPANISH TAPAS With a brick and wood interior, a long bar, tributes to bullfighters, and castanets on its walls, this authentic tasca serves tapas, paella, and other Spanish classics straight up and rarely misses.  The thing to do here is get a pitcher of sangria and sample many small dishes, such as the Romesco meatballs, stewed clams and mussels, spicy potatoes, stuffed sweet peppers, and inventive Spanish flatbread pizzas.  If you can make it beyond the tapas, there is a short selection of delicious entrees.  If the weather is fine, you should dine on the front terrace, the perfect spot to people-watch on Condado's main drag, unless it's Sunday night, when live flamenco is performed. 

Av.  Ashford 1302.    787/294-5513.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $21–34; tapas $4–17.  AE, MC, V. Mon–Wed 11:30am–11pm; Thurs–Sat 11:30am–midnight; Sun 11:30am–10pm.  Bus: A5 and B21. 

Bodega Compostela ★ TAPAS/WINE CELLAR At this modern refined wine and Spanish tapas place, diners walk through the wine cellar, with a translucent floor over corks, to a long bar area or retreat back to the dining room.  There are over 50 tapas, or appetizers, served here, ranging from crispy goat cheese–mesclun salad to lentil stew with chorizo and pancetta to octopus carpaccio with sun-dried tomatoes.  Seafood selections are plentiful, but there are plenty of other gorging possibilities: red pepper stuffed with barbecued Spanish sausage, and potato stuffed with lamb shank confit.  For those wanting more traditional meals, Compostela offers the outstanding dishes grounded in Spanish traditions that garnered it such a strong reputation over the years when it was a formal Spanish restaurant, such as seared tuna with apple julienne and couscous, or a large platter of rice with veal, pork, sausage, rabbit, and chicken for two.  There's a daily dessert special.  The wine cellar, comprising some 10,000 bottles, is one of the most impressive in San Juan. 

Av.  Condado 106.    787/724-6099.  Reservations required.  Tapas $3–$26; main courses $34–$45.  AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–3pm; Mon–Sat 6:30–10:30pm.  Bus: M2. 

Perurrican ★★ PERUVIAN The dining room here is quite nice, but you'll want to eat on the oceanfront terrace, where the salt and sound of sea spray only heighten the flavors of the ceviches and other seafood platters that are at the heart of the menu of creative Peruvian cuisine.  It may be difficult to pass up the fried mahimahi in criolla sauce and the calamari in cevichera sauces, but the appetizer menu is so deep (scallops au gratin, grilled mahimahi and steak skewers in Peruvian red pepper sauce, and exotic Peruvian delicacies that hit on the first try) that you may want to make a meal out of it.  There are also several ceviche, Peruvian fried rice, whole fish, and saltado (a stir-fry served over French fries and white rice) selections, as well as a full section of traditional entrees.  It's a good spot to try tacu tacu, a delicious rice, bacon, and bean dish that can be eaten as a side or as a main dish with seafood, steak, or chicken.  The food is as good as the view, making this one of the best oceanfront dining experiences in the city. 

Ave.  Ashford 1045, San Juan Beach Hotel, Condado.  www.perurrican.com.    787/725-3030.  Reservations not necessary.  Main courses $13–$30.  AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon 11:30am–9pm, Tues–Thurs 11:30am–10pm, Fri 11:30am–11pm, Sat noon–midnight, Sun noon–10pm.  Bus: B21 and C53. 

Ristorante Tuscany NORTHERN ITALIAN A consistently delicious Northern Italian restaurant known for its tasty menu, and more recently, its value-packed early bird special.  While critics say the menu and decor is dated, this stuff does not go out of style: classic osso buco with saffron pasta, roasted chicken stuffed with spinach and ricotta cheese, grilled filet mignon with barolo sauce, and thyme-and-fennel–crusted rack of lamb with vegetables in zinfandel sauce.  The risottos prepared al dente in the traditional northern Italian style are among the island's finest, and the cold and hot appetizers are meals unto themselves. 

In the San Juan Marriott Resort, Av.  Ashford 1309.    787/722-7000.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $18–$29.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 6–11pm.  Bus: B21. 

Ummo Restaurant ARGENTINE GRILL The dark wood and stone interior perfectly suits this sizzling Argentine restaurant specializing in parrilladas (grill platters) of steak, chicken, blood sausage, and pork cutlets.  There's also tasty Italian food, grilled fish, vegetable platters, and a good wine collection.  For starters, the house specialties are antipasto platters for couples or groups, with assorted meat, cheese, and seafood combinations.  There's often a singer/piano player performing inside, as well as the soccer game of the moment playing on the slick flatscreen televisions by the bar.  The front terrace is a pleasant place for a meal, if it's not too sultry, and you can watch the crowd saunter down Ashford Avenue.  A grilled steak or chicken platter might be more satisfying than a mixed grill platter, which tend to be heavy on the grilled sausage and pork cuts.  Everyone can find something they like here, and the restaurant strikes a really great balance between the formal and relaxed in its ambience. 

Av.  Ashford 1351, Condado.    787/722-1700.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $17–$32; mixed-grill platters (parrilladas) $36–$44 (for 2), $72–$88 (for 4).  AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–1 am.  Bus: B21. 

Moderate

Most main courses in the restaurants below are at the low end of the price scale.  These restaurants each have only two or three dishes that are expensive, almost invariably involving shellfish. 

Great Taste ★★ CHINESE This is the place where the island's Chinese community goes for dim sum, and with good reason, as this restaurant has been serving up among the best Chinese food on the island for decades.  It also has a sushi bar.  Set in a 1970s glass and aluminum condominium, the dining room is spacious, comfortable, and bright, with Japanese prints, huge lobster tanks, and an enviable view over the Condado lagoon.  Come here for the Chinese; everything you try, from the cashew chicken to the Peking duck, to the shrimp in lobster sauce, to the sizzling black pepper steak, is excellent.  If dim sum's your thing, this is the best on the island, with sticky rice in lotus leaf, skewered beef, and steamed vegetable dumplings.  Sunday specials attract droves of diners with a refined sense of what good dim sum is all about. 

Av.  Ashford 1018.    787/721-8111.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $8–$45.  AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–midnight.  Bus: B21, C53. 

The Greenhouse INTERNATIONAL Its endless menu has made this a Condado institution since opening in 1973.  You can truly have it all here: from juicy Kobe burgers to baked salmon, from French onion soup to western omelets and brick-oven pizza.  Don't expect to be wowed by the service or the decor, but the deft kitchen manages to hit its marks despite the variety.  The crowd is always interesting, regardless of the hour, and there is now outdoor seating.  The place is usually packed, and it's a favorite late-night haven to satisfy the most varied of hunger pangs. 

Av.  Ashford 1200.    787/725-4036.  Main courses $8–$39.  AE, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11:30–2am; Fri–Sat 11:30–4am.  Bus: B21. 

Oceano ★ INTERNATIONAL You might think you are in South Beach at this ultramodern, elegant restaurant-lounge-bar, which is at the vanguard of both style and technology, with a cutting-edge sound and lighting system.  The breeze and bright hues of its cherished beachfront location are ever present inside the main lounge, interior dining area, and on the beachfront deck—the perfect spot to take a break from the beach for lunch or to drink in the sunset and some spirits afterward.  The ambience takes such hold that you're liable to stay for something to eat regardless of the hour of your visit, and it's always a good idea, because the short menu, which trots the globe but keeps it simple, is tasty.  Go for the coconut lime over passion-fruit ceviche, while the Middle Eastern is one of the best of the inventive pizzettas.  The jerk chicken with papaya salsa is more sweet than spicy (but very tasty), and Oceano's version of a tripleta (a triple meat sandwich sold from roadside lunch trucks across the island) is a whole lot healthier and tastier.  On the downside, service could be more attentive. 

2 Calle Vendig.    787/724-6300.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $15–$22.  AE, MC, V. Sun and Tues–Wed noon–midnight; Thurs noon–2am, Fri–Sat noon–3am.  Bus: B21 and C53. 

Inexpensive

Bebo's Café   PUERTO RICAN/AMERICAN Tasty comida criolla at low prices make this a favorite with locals, so the crowd more than makes up for the otherwise sterile environment.  Everybody comes here.  The daily specials are heavy on comfort foods (roast pork, baked turkey, stewed chicken) and are the real bargains, but if you have not tried stuffed mofongo, this is a great place to do so.  There's a full bar, excellent fresh fruit frappes and local coffees, as well as standard American fare such as club sandwiches and burgers.  CNN en Español or the sports event of the moment is broadcast from a huge flatscreen TV in one of its dining areas.  The local desserts, tropical flans, tres leches, and cheesecakes are wonderful.  Service is often off the market, but who cares when it's always well intentioned?  The vibe's as good as the value. 

Calle Loiza 1600, Santurce.    787/726-1008.  Reservations not accepted.  Main courses $6.95–$25.  AE, MC, V. Daily 7:30am–12:30am.  Bus: A5. 

Café del Angel CREOLE/PUERTO RICAN The place looks transported from Miami's Flagler Street in 1950, and the terrace furniture won't compel you to get Architectural Digest on the phone.  If indeed there is an "angel," as the cafe's name suggests, it is in the kitchen.  Serving tasty food at affordable prices, this place has been in operation for about 2 decades.  Service is efficient in a relaxed atmosphere that can seat 100, with paintings and figures of its namesake angels all around.  Get real island flavor here: traditional mofongo relleno, which is a casserole of sautéed, mashed plantain, stuffed with shrimp, chicken, beefsteak, or lobster.  The fresh garlic bread is a nice touch. 

Av.  Ashford 1106.    787/643-7594.  Main courses $7–$20.  AE, DC, MC, V. Wed–Mon 11am–10pm.  Bus: B21. 

Cielito Lindo   MEXICAN This place has retained its low prices and utter lack of pretension throughout the years, even as its popularity as one of the city's best Mexican restaurants has grown.  It moved into a bit swankier digs next door, but is still casual, perfect for families and those who wish to remain in beach attire.  The place is mobbed, especially on weekends, with those looking for heaping portions of well-prepared Mexican standards: steak or chicken fajitas; Mexican-style strip steak sautéed with green peppers and onions, covered with tomatoes and spicy gravy; chicken enchiladas covered with cheese and sour cream; and several kinds of tacos. 

Av.  Magdalena 1108.    787/723-5597.  Main courses $5–$20.  AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–11pm; Sat–Sun 5–11pm.  Bus: B21 or C10. 

Danny's International Restaurant PIZZA/CAFE Don't expect much atmosphere here, but the front terrace is a good place to watch the street parade down Condado's main drag.  The pizzas are thick and tasty, and there's an extensive selection, including the "mariscos," which has mussels, calamari, shrimp, octopus, and a special sauce; and the bomba, with local sausage, olives, hot peppers, and blue cheese.  There's also a complete menu of hot Italian subs, cold subs, a variety of cheese steaks, burgers, and club sandwiches.  The place is also one of the better restaurants serving American-style breakfasts near major area lodgings, such as the Marriott and the Ambassador, and guesthouses such as El Canario.  Tables are spread throughout a single dining room, and there's a round bar filled with newspapers and outfitted with televisions you can eat in front of from morning to night. 

Av.  Ashford 1351.    787/724-0501 or 724-2734.  Reservations not accepted.  Main courses $8.50–$15.  AE, MC, V. Daily 7am–1am.  Bus: B21, C10. 

Pinky's CAFE/DELI This ever mobile wrap shop may have finally found a permanent home on Condado's main strip, still serving the delicious wraps, fruit frappes, and gourmet subs that made Pinky's famous overnight.  The toughest thing is deciding between the likes of the Surfer (turkey, mozzarella, basil, tomato, onion, and pesto mayo), the Pink Sub (turkey, salami, mozzarella, basil, olive, tomato, and onion), the pork and sweet plantain wrap, the upscale sashimi-grade tuna with wasabi mayo and salad combo, or the filet mignon and grilled-onion sandwich.  There are tasty, filling breakfasts.  It's a big hit with local students. 

Av.  Ashford 1451, Ste.  100-B, Condado.    787/222-5222.  Wraps and specialty sandwiches $3–$11, breakfast $2–$11.  MC, V. Daily 7am–9pm.  Bus: A5, M1. 

Rao's by Piccolo e Posto ★★ ITALIAN This low-key, New York–style Italian restaurant serves up wondrous food at reasonable prices with a smile.  The chefs work from an open kitchen that backs the attractive dining room, and field both questions and shout-outs.  The big room is very 21st century but traditional all at once, and hits an intoxicating level of casual elegance.  If your wait person seems a bit slow, don't worry, they take a team approach here, ensuring impeccable service for all, as well as everybody getting to know each other.  The grilled vegetable (pepper, eggplant, zucchini) salad is extraordinary, as is the house-grilled chicken, with feta cheese, sundried tomato, and basil, and the lengthy pasta menu has everything from gnocchi nikitine to penne putanesca.  They get the details right in standards like fried calamari and veal marsala, and take them to a new level.  With pizzas, steaks, fresh fish, and plenty of vegetarian options, there's something for everyone. 

Av.  Ashford 451, Ste.  619.    787/919-0020.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $16–25, pasta $13–18.  AE, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11:20am–10:30pm, Fri–Sat 11:30am–midnight.  Bus: B21. 

Via Appia ★ PIZZA/ITALIAN A favorite of sanjuaneros with a craving for Italian, Via Appia offers praiseworthy food at affordable prices.  Its pizzas are among the best on the island, and basic pasta dishes such as baked ziti, lasagna, and spaghetti taste like somebody's Italian grandmother prepared them.  However, the restaurant really shows its stuff with such dishes as clams posillipo, veal and peppers, broiled sirloin with red-wine mushroom sauce, and the delectable chicken Français.  The house sangria is tasty and packs a punch, and the house wine helps keep a meal here in the budget category.  There is a wine bar and more formal dining room, as well as the original delilike main room, but the place to sit is on one of the two terraces fronting the establishment. 

Av.  Ashford 1350.    787/725-8711.  Pizza and main courses $9–$30.  AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–11pm; Sat–Sun 11am–midnight.  Bus: A5, C53, B21. 

Miramar

For the locations of restaurants in Miramar, see the map "Puerta de Tierra, Miramar, Condado & Ocean Park Hotels & Restaurants." 

Expensive

Bartola Cocina Mexicana ★   MEXICAN This small neighborhood restaurant in Miramar serves perhaps San Juan's best Mexican food at rock-bottom prices.  Hidden away in a commercial building housing the area's main Banco Popular branch, everything from the tortilla soup to the huaraches al pastor to the enchiladas verdes is authentic; and the clean, well-lit dining room and kitchen would make Hemingway relax.  The alambre de bistec (grilled steak with chopped onion, pepper, and bacon) is as excellent as the grouper ceviche, and there are plenty of vegetarian selections. 

Av.  Ponce de Leon 701, Edif.  Centro de Seguros, Ste.  108, Miramar.    787/963-1298.  Main courses $11–$14.  MC, V. Mon–Wed 11am–3pm, 5:30–10pm; Thurs–Sat 11am–11pm.  Bus: A5. 

road food: Restaurants on Wheels

Long before the current food truck trend gripping metropolises across the United States, Puerto Ricans were munching down tripletas (steak, roast pork, and ham and cheese sandwiches) and platefuls of stewed rabbit and rice and beans from lunch trucks and roadside kitchens built from converted school buses.  Hard core road-food aficionados, who don't mind a little car exhaust with their lunch, might want to scout out the culinary offerings weekdays along the marginal roads surrounding both sides of Kennedy Avenue, which snake through automobile dealers and swampland, as well as the rough and tumble ports area. 

Most visitors, however, will want to stick to the new generation of gourmet food trucks, which are upscaling the experience for the mainstream, serving tasty food at affordable prices, ranging from $3 to $12. 

The famed churrasco sandwich at El Churry, Avenida Isla Verde, Punta Las Marias (in front of Pepin Cafe;   787/525-2552; Wed 7pm–2am; Thurs–Sat 7pm–4am), has been drawing sanjuaneros with late-night munchies for years now.  Grilled in the Argentine style, it's served with lettuce, tomatoes, ketchup, and mayo, of course, with the obligatory order of fries and a soda included. 

Relatively new to the late-night scene, Los Monkeys, at the Shell Station on the corner of Avenida De Diego and Calle Wilson, Santurce (Thurs–Sat evenings until 4am), serves up killer gourmet burgers and a luscious tripleta, among other options.  There's always good music and happy people.  Across from the open-all-night Supermax, it caters to the crowd stumbling out of the nearby Plan B and Bar Bero bars. 

El Naqui, PR-24, near Metro Office Park, Guaynabo (  787/407-3737; Mon–Fri 11am–3pm, Sat noon–4pm), serves scrumptious grilled Asian steak kebabs, grilled honey garlic, bourbon-smoked ribs, and hand-cut fries with garlic and fresh herbs, along with daily chef specials. 

There are several food stands and trucks set up beside Plaza Darsenas in Old San Juan along the bayside boulevard where the cruise-ship docks start.  They sell everything from fresh fruit frappes to fried codfish fritters to tasty Mexican food. 

Santurce & Ocean Park

For the locations of restaurants in Santurce and Ocean Park, see the map "Puerta de Tierra, Miramar, Condado & Ocean Park Hotels & Restaurants." 

Very Expensive

Bistro de Paris ★★ FRENCH This classic Paris bistro sits across from Puerto Rico's beautiful art museum.  It updated its menu in 2012, but kept signature dishes like the trout filet in Meuniere sauce and the steak au poivre, to appease its huge local following built up over the years.  It is considered by many to be Puerto Rico's best French restaurant.  The restrained beige-and-green bistro has a front terrace under shaded awnings, a dining room surrounded by huge glass windows and doors, and comfortable chairs and tables.  The new menu mixes in things like roasted lamb sandwiches and white-tuna Mediterranean burgers, along with more salad, appetizer, and pâté selections.  The renovated entree selections include porcini-stuffed spring chicken with dauphine potatoes, or a duck breast with a honey pine-nut sauce.  The crème brûlée is fantastic, but the warm apple tart reigns supreme. 

Plaza de Diego, Av.  José de Diego 310.    787/998-8929.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $23–$38; weekend brunch $5–$19.  AE, MC, V. Mon–Wed 11:30am–11pm; Thurs 11:30am-1am; Fri–Sat 11:30am–1am; Sun 11am–10pm.  Bus: A5. 

Expensive

Pamela's ★   CARIBBEAN FUSION The food here matches its impressive setting on a white-sand beach free of the high-rises that dominate much of the city's coast.  It's simply the best place to eat on the beach in San Juan, with a menu that takes flavors from distinct Caribbean cuisines and wraps them around classic continental fare.  The result is appetizers such as guava-toasted sesame-chicken satay, smoked-chicken sour-apple spring rolls, and spicy Jamaican jerked calamari.  Main courses include sundried tomato escabeche codfish, the blackened dorado with mango relish, and the massive N.Y. steak, crusted with a plantain and manchego coating.  Diners can eat in a courtyard, marked by hand-painted tiles and stone fountains, or take a table under a palm tree outside and listen to the rumble of the ocean.  Tasty snacks, sandwiches, salads, and a full-service bar make this a great spot for a beach break, too.  You can get a table right on the beach, beneath palm trees right outside the guesthouse. 

In the Número 1 Guest House, Calle Santa Ana 1, Ocean Park.    787/726-5010.  Reservations recommended.  Lunch $8–$24; main course $25–$29.  AE, MC, V. Daily noon–3pm and 7–10:30pm.  Tapas daily 3–7pm.  Bus: A5, C53. 

Moderate

Boulangerie Tradición Francaise & Bistro   FRENCH This French country cafe is on the edge of a pretty but cramped residential Santurce neighborhood, a few blocks from Condado beach.  The heavenly bread and baked goods (fruit and tiramisu tarts, Napoleons, almond-stuffed croissants, and cakes) draw crowds.  The French roast coffee is superb, as are the tasty and hearty breakfasts and weekend brunches, which draw crowds out the door on Saturdays and Sundays.  There are equally compelling gourmet sandwiches and pasta dishes for lunch, and the dinner entrees are top-drawer French executions of excellence: bouillabaisse, steak au poivre, and fresh dorado (mahimahi) in a Dijon mustard sauce.  There's a nice little wine selection and Orangina, the taste of European summer.  You must get dessert, even if you get it to go. 

Calle Taft 174.    787/721-6272.  Main courses $15–29, sandwiches $6.25–$11, breakfast $3.50–$13.  AE, MC, V. Tues–Sun 7am–10pm.  Bus: A5. 

Piropo   TAPAS This fashionable tapas bar at the Plaza del Mercado in Santurce spills from an attractive interior bar and lounge onto a huge back deck that's open-air but protected from the elements at the same time.  Chow on stuffed sweet peppers, risotto croquettes, churrasco, and ceviche, while mingling with the ever-interesting crowd.  Take a swing around the string of bars surrounding the Plaza del Mercado up the street on a Thursday or Friday night, either before or after getting some sustenance here. 

Calle Iturriaga 1361.    787/723-5577.  Reservations not accepted.  Tapas and entrees $7–$24.  MC, V. Wed 1–3pm, 7pm–4am; Thurs 6pm–4am, Fri 1pm–4am, Sat noon–2pm, 6pm–3am, Sun 1pm–3am.  Bus: A5. 

Repostería Kasalta ★ SPANISH/PUERTO RICAN This is the most widely known of San Juan's cafeterias/bakeries/delicatessens.  You'll enter a cavernous room flanked with sun-flooded windows and a long row of display cases filled with seasonal pastries, then cold cuts and cheeses, and finally rows of ceviche and chicken salad, roasted peppers, and other delicacies.  You order at the counter then bring the food back to one of the many tables.  The place is packed from early morning through the afternoon, which testifies to its quality breakfasts, sandwiches, and other meals.  Knowledge of Spanish is helpful but not essential.  Among the selections are steaming bowls of Puerto Rico's best caldo gallego, a hearty soup laden with collard greens, potatoes, and sausage slices, served in thick earthenware bowls with hunks of bread.  Also popular are Cuban sandwiches (sliced pork, cheese, and fried bread), steak sandwiches, a savory octopus salad, and an assortment of perfectly cooked omelets.  Paella Valenciano is a Sunday favorite. 

Av.  McLeary 1966.    787/727-7340.  Reservations not accepted.  Full American breakfast $3.50–$8.50, soups $3–$6, sandwiches $4.50–$15, entrees $5–$22.  AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 6am–10pm.  Bus: A5, C53. 

Tasca del Pescador   SEAFOOD All our sanjuanero friends swear this is the best seafood in town, and they are right.  Don't expect anything fancy here, but you can't find fresher fish in town than the catch of the day at this small lunch spot beside the Santurce Plaza del Mercado traditional food market.  It's as chilly as an ice cooler inside, but the outdoor seating can be scorching on hot days.  Pick your poison 'cause the seafood's served up right, with the flavors (mostly criolla) aimed at enhancing not hiding that raw ocean taste.  Get the whole red snapper if you want to feast like a local, but the dorado and other fish served here are just as fine.  You'll get island sides like fried plantains or mofongo. 

Calle Dos Hermanos 178.    787/721-0995.  Reservations not accepted.  Entrees $12–$24.  MC, V. Tues–Sun 11am–6pm.  Bus: A5. 

Under the Trees HEALTHY GOURMET/CARIBBEAN With delicious sandwiches and wraps, inventive local entrees, and European classics, this is a great spot for a meal.  The restaurant is within a modern tropical garden that's filled with ambiance.  This is one of the better of the growing number of restaurants looking to deliver healthy food without sacrificing the flavor.  You can get a sit-down meal or serve yourself from the gourmet kitchen bar, best for building your own salads and pastas.  If you are willing to eat healthy and want a good meal, come here.  Alongside the salad bar, panini, wraps, and soups, there's also a mojito bar and a good wine selection.  A mofongo stuffed pork chop, a 16-ounce rib eye, and fried calamari, among other items, will also endear this spot to those looking to engage in some culinary sinning. 

Doubletree by Hilton, Av.  José de Diego 105.    787/721-1200.  Main courses $10–$27; weekend brunch $5–$19.  AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–11pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–1am; Sun 11am–10pm.  Bus: A5. 

Near Ocean Park

For the locations of these restaurants, see the map "Puerta de Tierra, Miramar, Condado & Ocean Park Hotels & Restaurants." 

Expensive

Che's ARGENTINE This established Argentine steakhouse is in a low-key, airy spot that could be in southern California.  It has among the best churassacos, grilled flank steak, and other cuts in the city.  If you're not in the mood for beef, there's really good pasta, seafood, and chicken dishes as well.  There's nothing fancy here, but the quality is top drawer, and its unpretentiousness is refreshing.  The meats here are very tender and well flavored, and the chimichurri sauce is the city's best. 

Calle Caoba 35.    787/726-7202.  Reservations recommended for dinner.  Main courses $15–$30.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11:30am–10:45pm; Fri–Sat noon–midnight.  Bus: A5. 

Moderate

La Casita Blanca ★   CREOLE/PUERTO RICAN It's a worthwhile trip off the beaten path to get to this restaurant, which serves up traditional comida criolla with a traditional Puerto Rican countryside experience.  Dig into carne guisado y arroz con gandule (stewed beef and rice with pigeon peas) or serenata delbacalao (salted codfish in a ceviche sauce).  There's everything from pigs' trotters in a Creole sauce to stewed rabbit and veal with sautéed onions.  Eating here is like having a meal on the back porch of a country home.  The staff is amazingly friendly and genuinely welcoming of guests, so it's a great experience for visitors to the island, and locals will feel transported back to an idyllic past.  Plan on taking a taxi both to and from here, as Villa Palmeras is not a neighborhood you want to walk through. 

Calle Tapía 351.    787/726-5501.  Main courses $9–$23; Sun buffet $12–$15.  MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–6:45pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–9:30pm; Sun noon–4:30pm.  Bus: C10 or C11. 

Isla Verde

Isla Verde Hotels & Restaurants

For the locations of restaurants in Isla Verde, see the map "Isla Verde Hotels & Restaurants." 

Very Expensive

Alfredo's ITALIAN/STEAKHOUSE There's certainly nothing unusual about a restaurant in classic quarters serving up a refined Italian and steakhouse menu, and, in this case, even the name is to be expected.  This restaurant actually delivers, however.  There's a full line of steaks and chops in Creole, guava, BBQ, or chimichurri sauce.  Pastas include lobster ravioli in a garlic rosemary veal au jus, and incredible penne with spicy Italian sausage, onions, tomatoes, and roasted peppers.  There are basic soups and salads and a small appetizer menu with eggplant alla parmigiana, tuna carpaccio, fried shrimp, and a mixed antipasto platter, with roasted vegetables, cheeses, and prosciutto.  The desserts are also luxurious. 

In the InterContinental San Juan Resort & Casino, Av.  Isla Verde 187.    787/253-1717.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $15–$30.  AE, DC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 6–10pm; Fri–Sat 6–11pm.  Bus: A5. 

BLT Steak ★★ STEAKHOUSE French chef Laurent Tourondel takes the American steakhouse to new highs with an awesome selection of Black Angus, prime, and Kobe beef, as well as chicken, lamb, veal, and fresh fish.  It's the best steakhouse fare you can imagine, prepared by a chef with the talent to match the quality of the ingredients.  The signature steak is a bone-in sirloin for two, which is among the finest cuts on the island.  The sautéed Dover sole is an old-school classic that hits its mark.  Steaks are served with a selection of sauces including chimichurri, béarnaise, peppercorn, and horseradish.  The blueberry-lemon pie makes for a refreshing finale. 

In the Ritz-Carlton San Juan Hotel, Spa & Casino, Av.  de los Gobernadores (State Rd.)  6961, no.  187, Isla Verde.    787/253-1700.  Reservations required.  Main courses $22–$88; fixed-price menus $45–$75.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 6–10:30pm; Fri–Sat 6–11pm.  Bus: A5. 

La Piccola Fontana NORTHERN ITALIAN Just off a luxurious wing of El San Juan Hotel, this classically formal restaurant serves generous platters of well prepared food.  Be forewarned that prices are steep, but its service enjoys a fine reputation.  The food is straightforward, generous, and extremely well prepared.  You'll dine in one of two neo-Palladian rooms whose wall frescoes depict Italy's ruins and landscapes.  Menu items range from the appealingly simple (grilled filets of fish or grilled veal chops) to more elaborate dishes such as tortellini San Daniele, made with veal, prosciutto, cream, and sage; or linguine scogliere, with shrimp, clams, and seafood.  Grilled medallions of filet mignon are served with braised arugula, Parmesan cheese, and balsamic vinegar. 

In El San Juan Hotel & Casino, Av.  Isla Verde 6063.    787/791-0966.  Reservations required.  Main courses $29–$75.  AE, MC, V. Daily 6–11pm.  Bus: A5, C53. 

  Dining with kids

Puerto Ricans love children and are more likely to bring them out to dinner than in many other countries.  As a result, most restaurants are used to dealing with children and are prepared to handle them.  Likewise, large family groups going out to restaurants are very common.  The Ciao Mediterranean Café, right on the beach in Isla Verde, is a great place for lunch, especially if you are enjoying the beach.  Pizzas, pastas, salads, and sandwiches are offered at reasonable prices.  The buffets on offer at the La Vista Restaurant and Ocean Terrace (Marriot Hotel Stellaris Casino;   787/723-7000) are good for a family splurge, with enough variety to meet everyone's taste.  The buffets change nightly, and there are breakfast and lunch buffets as well.  It's hard to do better than Bebo's Café for a family outing.  There's great local food, and basic American fare to satisfy all wishes.  There's a full bar and range of fruit frappes, great desserts, and the price is right.  In Old San Juan, both El Jibarito and Raíces are family friendly and local, and the Parrot Club has the tastiest kid's menu in town. 

Expensive

Koko CARIBBEAN The menu boldly charts a modern Caribbean cuisine, forged from down island, Puerto Rican, and other Pan-Caribbean influences.  The matted natural interior, which meshes the look and feel of lush vegetation and flowing water, coconut shells, and palm fronds, aims to be the perfect setting for the food.  The seared halibut with coconut risotto, the guava-braised short ribs, and the passion fruit–glazed duck are all delicious.  There's a great seafood bar, and dazzling apps such as crab fritters and ginger pork croquettes.  There's also a lounge and rum bar here, and it draws a crowd well into the evening.  Saturday nights feature live Latin jazz, and Sunday evenings feature a magic show with a special fixed-price menu. 

At El San Juan Hotel & Casino, Av.  Isla Verde 1660.    787/791-7078.  Reservations not accepted.  Main courses $23–$46.  AE, MC, V. Daily 4pm–midnight.  Bus: A5. 

Yamato JAPANESE The artfully simple decor at Yamato shows the kind of modern urban minimalism that you might expect in an upscale California restaurant.  Separate sections offer conventional seating at tables; at a countertop within view of a sushi display; or at seats around a hot grill where chefs shake, rattle, and sizzle their way through a fast but elaborate cooking ritual.  Many visitors include at least some sushi with an entree such as beef sashimi with tataki sauce, shrimp tempura with noodle soup, filet mignon or chicken with shrimp or scallops, or several kinds of rice and noodle dishes.  Aficionados rave about the sushi cuts and quality, and the chefs at the grill put on quite a show. 

In Wyndham El San Juan Hotel & Casino, Av.  Isla Verde 6063.    787/791-1000.  Reservations recommended.  Sushi $2.50–$3 per piece; sushi and teppanyaki dinners $25–$43.  AE, MC, V. Daily 6pm–midnight.  Bus: A5. 

Moderate

Brother Jimmy's BBQ   AMERICAN/STEAK El San Juan Hotel sure showed it was secure enough in its poshness to open up its 8,000-square-foot roof to this fun, relaxed establishment, drawing both a sports crowd and family dining for weekend lunches and early evening dinners.  This southern barbecue joint/sports bar, decorated like a frat house, features the Swamp Water Cocktail Bar, specializing in specialty drinks, a few dozen flatscreen TVs, and one massive 25×25-ft.  television, where big games (and movies at certain times) are shown.  The place to "put some south in your mouth," there are St. Louis–style ribs of all types, cider-glazed pork chops, country-fried steak, and all sorts of chicken and burgers.  Sides include corn fritters, fried green tomatoes, and biscuits and gravy; and you can always start off with some stuffed jalapeños, fried okra or pickles, hot wings, or spinach and artichoke dip.  The food's great, even if the mechanical bull does not thrill you. 

In El San Juan Hotel & Casino, Av.  Isla Verde 6063.    787/791-1000.  Main courses $13–$24.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 5pm–midnight; Sat–Sun noon–midnight.  Bus: A5. 

Inexpensive

Ciao Mediterranean Café ★   MEDITERRANEAN This is one of the most charming restaurants in Isla Verde, with a roofed bar and dining area beside the hotel's gorgeous pool area, and tables running along a boardwalk fronting Isla Verde's best beach.  It's draped with bougainvillea and shaded by towering palm trees, and the prices are not bad given the astounding setting.  Pizzas and pastas are popular here, and there's also grilled shrimp and an excellent calamari dish.  Compared to most of the restaurants around here, this cafe serves lighter fare that kids go for, especially in its selection of pizzas and pastas.  It's a great spot for lunch, if you're out on the beach—even if you are not staying here. 

In the InterContinental San Juan Resort & Casino, Av.  Isla Verde 5961.    787/791-6100.  Reservations recommended for dinner.  Pizzas and salads $8–$20; main courses $12–$20.  AE, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–11pm.  Bus: A5. 

Mi Casita PUERTO RICAN This local restaurant serves big platters of inexpensive, tasty Puerto Rican food and American-style breakfasts with strong Puerto Rican coffee.  When it gets packed at lunch, your meal might take a while, but service is always with a smile and the shrimp mofongo, arroz con pollo, and fried snapper are as tasty as they are authentic.  The big menu (also with sandwiches and other standards) is wide enough to endear itself to the entire family, and the price is always right.  This is your go-to value option any time of day if you are staying in Isla Verde, and it's right across the street from the InterContinental and Old San Juan hotels. 

Plazoleta Isla Verde, Av.  Isla Verde.    787/791-1777.  Main courses $8.95–$21.  MC, V. Daily 7:30am–10:30pm.  Bus: C53, A5. 

Metropol CUBAN/PUERTO RICAN/INTERNATIONAL This local restaurant has the longest menu in town, offering Cuban food as well as Puerto Rican and Dominican fare.  The classic, Havana black-bean soup is expertly prepared, along with Cornish game hen stuffed with Cuban rice and beans, beef hash Latino style, and lobster or chicken asopao.  Rice and beans, fried rice, and yucca and plantains in varying forms accompany most meals, and there's no other way to finish but with a flan.  Big, tasty portions and low prices keep this place a hit after all these years. 

Club Gallistico, Av.  Isla Verde.    787/791-4046.  Main courses $11–$31.  AE, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–11:30pm.  Bus: C53, A5. 

Panadería España Repostería LIGHT FARE The Panadería España makes San Juan's definitive Cuban sandwich—a cheap meal all on its own.  The biggest sandwich weighs 3 pounds (1.5 kg).  Drinks and coffee are dispensed from behind a much-used bar.  You can purchase an assortment of gourmet items from Spain, arranged as punctuation marks on shelves set against an otherwise all-white decor.  The place has been serving simple breakfasts, drinks, coffee, and Cuban sandwiches virtually every day since it opened, around 1970. 

Centro Comercial Villamar, Marginal Baldorioty de Castro.    787/727-3860.  Soups and tapas $4–$6; sandwiches $5–$8.  AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 6am–10pm.  Bus: A5. 

Near Isla Verde

For the location of this restaurant, see the map "Isla Verde Hotels & Restaurants." 

Soleil Beach Club Piñones   CARIBBEAN When it opened in 1997, Soleil was a pioneer in operating a fine-dining establishment among the barbecues, wooden shacks, and open-air bars of the Piñones dining scene.  More than 15 years later, Soleil still rules from its roost amid the sand dunes and palm trees of the undeveloped beach it fronts.  Soak in that breeze and listen to those waves from a table or the bar on the oceanfront terrace, and have a predinner drink as the sun goes down.  The food here's as good as its rustic beachfront surroundings.  The surf and turf pairs Argentinean style skirt steak with shrimp, baby octopus, mahimahi, cuttle fish, and Spanish chorizo.  The halibut is served in a beurre blanc sauce and cassava mofongo.  This is the best oceanfront dining in San Juan, and one of the best in Puerto Rico.  Today, the restaurant hosts corporate dinners and special events, with facilities for concerts and live shows, a dance floor, and DJ area.  There's also Wi-Fi service here. 

Soleil Beach Club, Carretera 187, Km 4.6, Piñones.    787/253-1033.  Reservations recommended.  Dinner main courses $13–$39; lunch specials $7–$10.  AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–11pm; Fri–Sat 11am–2am.  Call ahead to arrange free transportation to and from your hotel in the Soleil Beach Club van. 

Hato Rey

El Cairo Restaurant ★   MIDDLE EASTERN This is one of the best of the many fine Middle Eastern and Lebanese restaurants found in San Juan.  The service here is among the friendliest in the city, and we love the hand-carved wooden chairs with pharaoh heads, Persian rugs, and colorful Arabian veils hanging from the ceiling.  With the fine food and sizzling belly-dancing shows, it adds up to the seductive world of a harem.  The appetizers—baba ghanouj, falafels, hummus, and tabbouleh among others—are all really tasty, and the kebabs are perfectly grilled and perfectly seasoned.  The grilled lamb shank, stuffed grape leaves, curry dishes, and keiba (ground beef) dishes are equally delicious.  A real surprise is the wonderful grilled salmon.  Don't leave without trying the baklava; there's a reason it's the oldest dessert in the world.  On Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights, a great belly-dancing show starts at 8pm. 

Calle Ensenada 352 (corner Av.  Franklin Delano Roosevelt).    787/273-7140.  Reservations recommended on Fri–Sun evenings.  Main courses $12–$30.  AE, MC V. Sun and Tues–Thurs noon–10pm; Fri–Sat noon–11pm.  Bus: B21. 

Il Nuovo Perugino Enoteca ★★ ITALIAN With a slight name change from the original Il Perugino, one of the city's finest restaurants moved from Old San Juan to the swanky modern Popular Center in Hato Rey.  It still serves the extraordinary cuisine inspired by chef and owner Franco Seccarelli's homeland of Umbria.  The menu changes but homemade pastas may include Italian classics such as spinach and ricotta gnocchi with fresh tomatoes, black tagliatelle and scallops, and thin pasta with pancetta, tomatoes, and onions.  Homemade desserts are also delicious, and there's a large wine collection.  Service is impeccable and friendly. 

Popular Center, Atrium Second Floor, Hato Rey   787/722-5481.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $25–$41.  AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat from 4:30pm.  Bus: B21. 

Cataño

Don Tello ★   PUERTO RICAN This authentic, family-run restaurant lost nothing when it moved from Santurce to Cataño, the town across the bay from Old San Juan.  The traditional comida criolla is inspired, and you'll find such gems as grilled mahimahi in a plantain sauce and the house chicken stuffed with meat, cheese, and vegetables.  There's a variety of stuffed mofongo, asopao, and other Puerto Rican classics such as grilled red snapper, local paella, grilled churrasco, and chuletas kan kan (breaded and fried pork chops).  The restaurant overlooks San Juan Bay and the view to Old San Juan across it.  It's a good place to stop after taking the Bacardi tour, before returning on the ferry.  There are excellent tropical fruit frappes. 

Av.  Las Nereidas 36, Cataño.    787/788-1951.  Reservations suggested.  Main courses $7.95–$40.  AE, V, MC.  Tues–Sat 11am–10pm (sometimes later); Sun noon–8pm.  Old San Juan Ferry. 

Where to Stay

Whatever your preferences in accommodations—a beachfront resort or a place in historic Old San Juan, sumptuous luxury or an inexpensive base from which to see the sights—you can find a perfect fit in San Juan. 

In addition to checking the recommendations listed here, you might want to contact a travel agent; there are package deals galore, which can save you money and match you with an establishment that meets your requirements.  Before talking to a travel agent, however, you should refer to our recommendations about how to select a room in Puerto Rico. 

Not all hotels here have air-conditioned rooms.  We've pointed them out in the recommendations below.  If air-conditioning is important to you, make sure "A/C" appears after "In room" at the end of the listing. 

San Juan's Best Lodging Bets

• Best Splurge: The choice is simple.  If you want the beach, it comes with pampering at the Ritz-Carlton.  If you are in the mood for Old World charm, it's Gran Hotel El Convento, with blooming flowers and elegant Spanish colonial facades every way you turn. 

• Most Romantic: Travel back in time with your lover from a four poster bed at Gran Hotel El Convento, a blooming world of courtyards and rooms with views of centuries-old fortresses and cathedrals.  The only real spot that can compete for passion is The Gallery Inn, which has suites with hot tubs on garden terraces and balconies overlooking the Old City's Spanish colonial skyline or the undulating Atlantic coast. 

• Best Bang for Your Buck: Of the budget options in Old San Juan, it's Hotel Plaza de Armas, mostly because it sits at the direct heart of the Old City.  In Condado, it's tough to beat the prices at Caribe Inn, which is centrally located and steps from the great beach behind the Marriott Hotel.  There are some budget options in Isla Verde, but they really can't compete with the charming guest houses in neighboring Ocean Park, which offer a kind of Caribbean Martha's Vineyard experience, where the palm trees are the tallest objects around, the sand is white, and you can dine gourmet with sand between your toes.  Your best bet is probably Hosteria del Mar, which has the most budget rooms on offer right on the beach, the best in San Juan. 

• Best Service: The workers at Marriott San Juan Stellaris Casino are the friendliest folks in town.  They really want to help you enjoy your vacation and are full of valuable tips on everything you might want to do. 

• Best for Families: It's hard to beat the Caribe Hilton for families, with its private beach, robust children's program, watersports and activities offerings, plus a range of dining options on site.  The surrounding area has a great park and beach and you can walk to Condado over a new bridge during the day.  The Marriott Courtyard Isla Verde Beach Resort is also good for families.  A bit easier on the pocket than other beachfront properties, it's on a great beach, with areas for watersports and protected stretches great for small children. 

Taxes & Service Charges

All hotel rooms in Puerto Rico are subject to a tax that is not included in the rates given in this book.  At casino hotels, the tax is 11%; at noncasino hotels, it's 9%.  At government-sponsored country inns, called paradores puertorriqueños, you pay a 7% tax.  Some hotels add a 10% service charge; if not, you're expected to tip for services rendered.  Once confined to the larger properties, a growing number of hotels (including high-end guesthouses) are also applying a resort fee or hotel fee, which can range from 8% to 20% of the cost of your room per night.  The fees are ostensibly to offset the costs of facilities, such as a pool or health club, but it is also a way of hoteliers trying to keep their listed prices as low as possible.  We've listed the specific fees for each property here for the first time because of the prevalence of this practice, and the hefty rates some properties are charging.  When you're booking a room, it's a good idea to ask about these charges anyway. 

Old San Juan

Old San Juan, home to some of the most exquisitely restored Spanish architecture in the hemisphere, still plays a central role in the life of contemporary San Juan.  Lodging options include boutique hotels and basic budget rooms and everything in between. 

Best for: Visiting art and antiques galleries, historic and cultural sites, shopping, dining, and nightlife. 

Drawbacks: Beaches are a cab or bus ride away and there are no good resort-style pools in the Old City. 

Expensive

Chateau Cervantes This 12-unit boutique hotel seamlessly blends the colonial charm of its 16th-century quarters with ultramodern interiors by local designer Nono Maldonado.  The Old World charm of Hotel El Convento (see below) is still the Old City's most impressive lodging option; this is an impressive upscale alternative.  The hotel's high ceilings, arched doorways, windows, and wrought-iron balcony railings are quintessential Old San Juan, but Maldonado, working from a gold and muted gemstone palette, has remade the guest rooms into a plush world of velvet and silk.  Paintings by island artist Carlos Dávila add to the decor, and the small bathrooms are lined with marble.  Despite the comfort of the beds and furnishings, a 200-square-foot (19-sq.-m) room (standard) is too small for most travelers, so budget for a junior suite.  Only the presidential suite has a full bathtub.  The hotel is located on one of Old City's busiest streets in the midst of many bars and restaurants, so weekend noise levels bother some guests.  Rates include continental breakfast at Panza restaurant on its ground floor, which serves creative international cuisine in a chic setting. 

Calle Recinto Sur 307, Old San Juan, PR 00901.  www.cervantespr.com.    787/724-7722.  Fax 787/289-8909.  12 units.  Standard suites $182–$239; junior suite $225–$328; master suite $326–$477; presidential suite $863–$1,099.  Rates include taxes and hotel fee.  AE, MC, V. Parking is at public lots across the street.  Amenities: Restaurant; smoke-free rooms.  In room: A/C, TV/CD/DVD, hair dryer, Wi-Fi.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

Hotel El Convento ★★★ One of the most charming historic hotels in the Caribbean, the hotel gives guests that quintessential Old San Juan experience.  Constructed in 1651 as the New World's first Carmelite convent, it has since lived many lives (as a dance hall, a flophouse, and parking lot for garbage trucks); it became a hotel in 1962, and has since been restored to its past glory, while being injected with an urban, up-to-date feel, very much like Old San Juan itself.  Its fourth-floor rooftop has a small pool, adjacent Jacuzzi, and a big sun terrace with blessed views of the nearby Catedral de San Juan, as well as views of the bay and the Atlantic.  The lower two floors feature a collection of shops, bars, and restaurants, all worth staying for a while.  The midsize accommodations include Spanish-style furnishings, throw rugs, beamed ceilings, paneling, and Andalusian terra-cotta floor tiles.  Each unit contains king-size, queen-size, or two double or twin beds, fitted with fine linens.  The small bathrooms, with tub/shower combinations, contain scales and second phones.  Room no.  508 is a corner room with panoramic views. 

Calle del Cristo 100, San Juan, PR 00901.  www.elconvento.com.    800/468-2779 or 787/723-9020.  Fax 787/721-2877.  68 units.  Winter $240–$330 double, $645 suite; summer $160–$250 double, $525 suite.  Hotel fee 18%.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking $20.  Bus: Old City Trolley.  Amenities: 4 restaurants; 3 bars; fitness center; Jacuzzi; small rooftop plunge pool; Wi-Fi; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer. 

Sheraton Old San Juan Hotel & Casino This may be convenient for cruise-ship passengers wanting to spend a few nights in San Juan before or after a cruise, but don't expect Old City charm.  Backed by buildings erected by the Spanish monarchs in the 19th century, the hotel sits on the bay coast, where it hosts the city's busiest and most modern cruise-ship terminals, which are nearby.  On days when cruise ships pull into port, the hotel's lobby and bars are likely to be jammed with passengers stretching their legs after a few days at sea.  Most of the lobby level here is devoted to a mammoth casino.  Take a pass on the hotel restaurants; you are steps from SoFo (S. Fortaleza St., near Plaza Colón), which has some of the finest eateries in the city.  The small pool area seems even more cramped as it is surrounded by high walls, which also cut down on the limited sunbathing space. 

Calle Brumbaugh 100, San Juan, PR 00902.  www.sheraton.com.    800/325-3535 or 787/721-5100.  Fax 787/721-1111.  240 units.  Winter $189–$319 double, $289–$499 suite; off-season $169–$199 double, $219–$379 suite; presidential suite $669–769.  11% resort fee.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $21.  Bus: Old City Trolley.  Amenities: 2 restaurants; 3 bars; casino; fitness center; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; room service; smoke-free rooms; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar. 

Moderate

Casablanca Hotel This is a funky and beautiful inn, with a North African air, that makes perfect sense in the Old City's bustling retail area, with passengers and merchandise arriving from ships docking in the nearby bay.  The lobby and public areas have beautiful mosaic tile, a mix of restored antiques, contemporary furnishings, bold artwork, and wrought-iron lanterns.  Deluxe rooms have satellite TV and step-out balconies, and superior rooms also carry sofas and reading areas.  The guests are as eclectic as the interiors, and both make for a great experience.  You are in the middle of SoFo, with great places to eat from dawn to past midnight just steps from your front door, along with all the area nightclubs, bars, museums, and other attractions.  There's a lot of space to hang out and meet other guests.  The rooftop is a pleasant enough place to work on a tan.  You'll leave feeling as though you've gotten a lot for your money here.  If you don't need a beach, and you can't afford El Convento, this is a great option. 

Calle Fortaleza 316, San Juan, PR 00901.  www.hotelcasablancapr.com.    787/725-3436.  Fax 787/725-3435.  35 units.  High season $125–$255, low season $104–$213.  Prices include taxes, continental breakfast.  AE, MC, V. Bus: Old City Trolley.  Amenities: Reading lounge, free pass to nearby gym; rooftop terrace and stone plunge pools; Wi-Fi.  In room: A/C, TV, iPod dock and sound system. 

Gallery Inn at Galería San Juan ★   Staying at this rambling, 300-year-old inn overlooking Old San Juan's northern sea wall makes you feel as if you were staying at the fantastic home of some incredibly interesting friends.  Created by Jan D'Esopo and Manuco Gandia out of their home and Jan's art studio, the inn offers sweeping sea views and vistas across the Spanish colonial cityscape that extend all the way down to San Juan Bay.  Verdant courtyards, interior gardens, and patios and terraces appear around every bend.  Chattering tropical birds and murmuring fountains complete the atmosphere in the Caribbean's most whimsically bohemian hotel.  Built in 1700, the former aristocratic Spanish family home is now filled with Jan's clay and bronze sculptures and statues, original silk screens, paintings, and prints on display.  The least expensive doubles are fairly roomy and attractively furnished, with good beds.  The rooftop Wine Deck has the best view in Old San Juan.  Classical music concerts are often held in the Music Room and are free for guests.  A small pool has also been added to the property.  Attention lovers: the honeymoon suite has a Jacuzzi on a private balcony with a view of El Morro and the city's ocean coast. 

Calle Norzagaray 204–206, San Juan, PR 00901.  www.thegalleryinn.com.    866/572-ARTE (2783) or 787/722-1808.  Fax 787/977-3929.  22 units (some with shower only).  $140–$265 double; $280–$395 suite.  11% hotel fee.  Off-season specials available.  Rates include continental breakfast.  AE, DC, MC, V. 5 free parking spaces, plus parking on the street.  Bus: Old City Trolley.  Amenities: Breakfast room.  In room: A/C, hair dryer. 

Hotel Milano There's not much that's remarkable about this hotel built from a 1920s warehouse, except clean, modern facilities at a good price in a great location, right near all the restaurants and bars along South Fortaleza Street.  You enter a wood-sheathed lobby at end of Calle Fortaleza before ascending to one of the clean, well-lit bedrooms.  The simple, modern rooms have cruise-ship-style decor and unremarkable views, and there's excellent Wi-Fi access.  The rooftop terrace has outstanding views, and is a great spot to relax or enjoy the $5 continental breakfast.  The best rooms are on the upper floors overlooking the street.  This hotel is well-located in SoFo, home to some of Puerto Rico's best restaurants. 

Calle Fortaleza 307, San Juan, PR 00901.  www.hotelmilanopr.com.    877/729-9050 or 787/729-9050.  Fax 787/722-3379.  30 units.  Winter $105–$185 double; off-season $95–$145 double.  9% hotel fee.  Continental breakfast $5.35.  AE, MC, V. Bus: Old City Trolley.  Amenities: Rooftop terrace cafe; Wi-Fi; smoke-free rooms; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer. 

Villa Herencia Hotel ★★   Stay here if you are looking for Old World elegance and personal, polite service.  Beautifully decorated with eclectic furnishings on the most charming street in Old San Juan, this spot is right next to Hotel El Convento and costs much less.  There are outdoor baths on the roof and a gorgeous view.  The formal dining room, fountains, and courtyards add to the feeling of a lost romantic world you are recapturing.  The canopy beds in the deluxe rooms alone make it worth the extra price. 

Caleta Las Monjas 23, San Juan, PR 00901.  www.villaherencia.com.    877/722-0989.  9 units.  Winter $150–$250 double; off-season $125–$225 double.  9% hotel fee.  Continental breakfast $5.35.  AE, MC, V. Bus: Old City Trolley.  Amenities: Rooftop terrace.  In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer. 

Inexpensive

Da House  This has the feel of a European hostel, with bright, sunny, affordable rooms and a young and creative clientele, all on top of the legendary Nuyorican Café.  The rooftop sun deck is a great place to chill out with lounge chairs and a hot tub.  The downstairs cafe is a great venue for theater and music (it can be quite loud, so if you don't want to be in the middle of a nightlife scene, this is not your place).  The cafe in the lobby, which has Wi-Fi, is a good spot to pick up insider tourist tips.  Great art adorns the guesthouse, and the staff is friendly and helpful.  Rooms are clean and comfortable. 

Calle San Francisco 312, entrance down Callejon de la Capilla, San Juan, PR 00901.  www.dahousehotelpr.com.    787/366-5074 or 977-1180.  Fax 787/722-3379.  30 units.  $91–$167 double.  Rates include taxes.  AE, MC, V. Bus: Old City Trolley.  Amenities: Pizza restaurant; bar; music and theater nightclub.  In room: A/C, Wi-Fi. 

Hotel Plaza de Armas This renovated apartment building at the center of Old San Juan gives you a sense of how sanjuaneros live in the historic quarter, with rooms wrapped around a prominent interior courtyard.  It's right on Old San Juan's central Plaza de Armas, also home to San Juan City Hall and the Puerto Rico State Department.  Like those at Hotel Milano, these are clean, comfortable rooms in the heart of the city.  Visitors here know what to expect, and they leave satisfied.  There are several spots for a meal nearby, including an open-air cafe on the plaza serving tasty local coffee, as well as two drugstores, a supermarket, and a Marshall's department store—plus this is conveniently near all Old San Juan attractions.  The entire plaza has Wi-Fi access, and a free continental breakfast is served in the lobby.  The downside: there's no pool or sundeck here. 

Calle San José 202, San Juan, PR 00901.  www.sanjuan-plazadearmashotel.com.   877/722-9191.  Fax 787/725-3091.  30 units.  Winter $159–$181 double; off-season $126–$159 double.  Rates include taxes.  AE, MC, V. Bus: Old Town Trolley.  Amenities: Onsite bistro, smoke-free rooms; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi. 

Room with a Local's View: apartment Rentals

Despite the explosion of Old City hotel and guesthouse rooms over the past few years, one of the best ways to experience the city remains getting a furnished apartment for a short-term rental.  Many are restored, historic quarters with beautiful rooftop terraces or verdant interior courtyards, or both.  During your vacation, you'll get a great sense of what it feels like to live in this enchanted city, and you'll normally save money (especially if yours is a large group). 

Prices range from $500 weekly for a basic studio to $2,500 weekly for a three-bedroom, restored colonial beauty with rooftop terrace and ocean views.  Short-term rentals are assessed a 7% tax, and many require a minimum 3- or 4-night stay.  Cleaning fees are also assessed, which can range from $50 to $75. 

The expert in Old City short-term rentals is Vida Urbana, Calle Cruz 255, Old San Juan, PR 00901 (www.vidaurbanapr.com;   787/587-3031), a spinoff of Caleta Realty, a veteran in this field.  Years ago, I found a three-bedroom apartment through Caleta, a place near Catedral de San Juan, with huge adjoining living and dining rooms and a rooftop terrace running the length of the apartment.  We loved it.  We had a reception there, and a group of about eight friends stayed there for the week.  A comparable apartment would cost around $1,500 for the week today.  There are two lovely apartments for rent above the gallery and gift shop Bóveda, Calle Cristo 209, Old San Juan, PR 00901 (www.boveda.info;   787/725-0263), with artful, bright decor in a restored colonial building, complete with interior garden courtyard and balconies with double-door entrances.  A cool tropical vibe flows through the duplex ($1,000 weekly) and studio suite ($500 weekly). 

In Condado and Isla Verde, rates range from $525 a week for a studio to $2,250 a week for a deluxe, modern, three-bedroom condo.  San Juan Vacations, Cond.  Marbella del Caribe, Ste.  S-5, Isla Verde 00979 (www.sanjuanvacations.com;   800/266-3639 or 787/727-1591), is the biggest name in the business.  We've also worked through Ronnie's Properties, Calle Marseilles 14, Ritz Condominium, Ste.  11-F, San Juan, PR 00907 (www.ronniesproperties.com). 

Stay in Puerta de Tierra only if you have a desire to be at the Caribe Hilton.  When you stay in Puerta de Tierra, you're sandwiched halfway between Old San Juan and the Condado, but you're not getting the advantages of staying right in the heart of either. 

Best for: Families and other visitors who want a "resort" type of vacation and plan to spend as much time as possible at the Caribe Hilton, which has great facilities and a private beach, as well as the mammoth Luis Muñoz Rivera Park and the Third Millennium Park, which are beautiful places during the day but mostly deserted at night. 

Drawbacks: The neighborhood is not safe to walk around at night, requiring a rental car or taxi for anyplace you want to venture off the grounds. 

For the location of hotels in Puerta de Tierra, see the map. 

Caribe Hilton ★★★ The hotel that first put Puerto Rico on the world tourism map when it opened in 1949 is still one of the most up-to-date spa and convention hotels in San Juan.  This deluxe beauty, which was kept new with several dazzling renovations over the years, has a private beach and huge tropical garden and sits on a choice piece of Atlantic coastline outside Old San Juan. 

Rooms have been substantially upgraded, with larger-than-expected bathrooms with tub/shower combinations, as well as comfortable, tropical-inspired furniture.  In the Caribe Terrace Bar, you can order the bartender's celebrated piña colada, which was once enjoyed by movie legends Joan Crawford and Errol Flynn.  An oceanfront spa and fitness center, Las Olas, features such tantalizing delights as couples massages, body wraps, hydrotherapy tub treatments, and soothing cucumber sun therapies. 

Calle Los Rosales, San Juan, PR 00901.  www.caribe.hilton.com.    800/445-8667 or 787/721-0303.  Fax 787/725-8849.  812 units.  Winter $311–$499 double, $499–$2,564 suite; off-season $224–$283 double, $412–$2,474.  Rates include taxes and resort fee.  Children 16 and under stay free in parent's room (maximum 4 people per room).  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $20; self-parking $15.  Bus: A5, B21.  Amenities: 5 restaurants; 2 bars; babysitting; children's activities and playground; health club; room service; smoke-free rooms; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi. 

Condado

A wave of renovation has polished this landmark of the island's Tropical Modernism movement into San Juan's answer to South Beach, with designer boutiques and trendy restaurants, upscale jewelers and spas along Ashford Avenue, and its gorgeous beachfront filled with beautiful people and fashionistas. 

Best for: Those who want to mix their fun in the sun with some cosmopolitan shopping, dining, and partying.  The area draws a young crowd and gays and lesbians.  It has good bus connections into Old San Juan, and taxis are plentiful. 

Drawbacks: The surf can become rough, and the beach is shorter and narrower than those at Ocean Park and Isla Verde. 

For the locations of hotels in Condado, see the map. 

Very Expensive

Conrad Condado Plaza Hotel & Casino This is one of the busiest hotels on Puerto Rico, with enough facilities and restaurants to keep visitors occupied, but its tiny beach at the mouth of the Condado lagoon is not what most vacationers have come to the Caribbean for.  While the casino, clubs, and restaurants are top rate, the public area's stylings reach for glamour, but just seem dated and tacky despite a $65 million make-over.  The hotel is not a favorite of business travelers, tour groups, and conventions for nothing, however.  The spacious rooms with deluxe beds and plush furnishings are bright and airy, with private balconies and deluxe modern bathrooms.  The property sprawls across Ashford Avenue, home to one of the city's most popular casinos, and some of its finest dining spots: the Eight Noodle Bar, a favorite late-night snacking spot for San Juan's party set, and renowned Puerto Rican chef Wilo Benet's signature restaurant Pikayo.  President Barack Obama stayed here when he campaigned on the island in the late spring of 2008. 

Av.  Ashford 999, San Juan, PR 00907.  www.condadoplaza.com.    888/722-1274 or 787/721-1000.  Fax 787/721-1968.  570 units.  Winter $249 double, $289–$599 suite; off-season $169 double, $229–$569 suite.  14% resort fee.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $21; self-parking $16.  Bus: C53, B21.  Amenities: 5 restaurants; 3 bars; casino; children's activities; health club; 3 Jacuzzis; 3 outdoor pools; room service; smoke-free rooms; spa; 2 tennis courts; watersports equipment; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar. 

La Concha: A Renaissance Resort ★★ This hip, stylish hotel allows guests to keep one foot firmly in the sands of a fine beach and the other smack in the middle of one of San Juan's most fashionable shopping and nightlife areas.  The reopening of this hotel—50 years to the day from when it first opened to rave reviews in December 1958—completed the renovation and comeback of Condado, with oceanfront rooms that feel as if they are part of the horizon, and a multilevel infinity pool area and adjoining beaches that form a dreamscape in which guests can willfully lose themselves.  The water motif extends to the cascading fountain at its entrance, the fountains surrounding an open-air deck, and views of the sea from every vantage point.  The lobby's Italian marble, white furniture, and huge window to the sea also pull the resort's exteriors and interiors together.  This was perhaps the most iconic example of the Tropical Modernism style forged in San Juan when it first opened, and its recent renovation has spearheaded an updated revival.  Its domed seashell structure, which sits on the beach surrounded by water, is home to the amazing Perla Restaurant, and a cafe rambles through the multilevel pool area, where tapas and wine are served under the stars and towering palms.  The lobby bar, casino, and club are hotspots driven by Latin and electronica dance rhythms.  Guest rooms have the latest high-tech gadgets; understated natural wood and beige interiors form a canvas for the beautiful views and tropical prints on the walls. 

Av.  Ashford 1077, San Juan, PR 00907.  www.laconcharesort.com.    877/524-7778 or 787/721-7500.  Fax 787/724-7929.  248 units.  Winter $199–$239 double, $259–$589 suite; off-season $183–$223 double, $249–$459 suite.  16% resort fee.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $25; self-parking $18.  Bus: C53, B21.  Amenities: 6 restaurants; 2 bars; 3 pools; room service; Wi-Fi; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, flatscreen TV, hair dryer, music players for any format. 

San Juan Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino ★★ This centrally located hotel is on one of the Condado's nicest beaches and within walking distance of two parks and the best restaurants in the sector.  The tallest building on the Condado, this 21-story landmark packs lots of postmodern style and has an open, comfortable lobby area.  A hit with families and kids, it has extensive children's activities and a pool with two water slides.  It also has a jumping casino and lobby area, the scene of big band and Latin jazz performances.  Even the sports bar by the pool is active with sports fans from up and down the East Coast.  The guest rooms are generally spacious, with good views of the water, and each comes with a tiled bathroom with a tub/shower combination.  The pastel tones of the comfortable bedrooms are a bit too washed out for our taste, but that's the only legitimate gripe about this property.  Junior suites have a living area with a sofa bed.  We can't say enough about its great location in the best part of Condado, which is not immediately apparent to visitors.  It's an easy walk to anywhere you want to go.  And the staff is among the friendliest in town. 

Av.  Ashford 1309, San Juan, PR 00907.  www.marriott.com.    800/228-9290 or 787/722-7000.  Fax 787/722-6800.  525 units.  Winter $359–$409 double, $434–$484 suite; summer $259–$289 double, $299–$339 suite.  Resort fee 16%.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $20; self-parking $16.  Bus: B21, A5.  Amenities: 3 restaurants; 3 bars; babysitting; casino; health club; Jacuzzi; 2 pools; room service; sauna; 2 tennis courts; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi. 

Expensive

Doubletree by Hilton San Juan Though it's 3 blocks from the city's best beach and within walking distance of the best clubs and restaurants in Condado, this may still seem too far for many guests who want to wake up looking at the beach and would rather stroll than take a cab back to the room at night.  The property had been a hit with travelers when it had bargain rates, but a recent renovation pumped up the price.  The renovation has increased the comfort of the guestrooms, however, and public areas have been transformed into lovely places to linger.  The hotel sits on a major bus line, so getting to most major San Juan attractions is a snap, even if you don't rent a car.  There are two good on-site restaurants, and the adjacent Gallery Plaza also hosts a few fine restaurants.  The area in general is chock-full of reasonably priced restaurants.  It's also 2 blocks from the Puerto Rico Museum of Art, and close to most attractions in Condado, Santurce, and Miramar.  Still, at these prices, you may prefer to stay right on the beach. 

Av.  José De Diego 105, Condado, San Juan, PR 00914.  www.doubletree1.hilton.com.    787/721-1200.  Fax 787/721-3118 (reservations).  184 units.  Winter $149–$229 double; summer $129–$199 double.  Resort fee 19.62%.  Rates include continental breakfast.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $20; self-parking $5.  Bus: A5 or B21.  Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; small health club; Jacuzzi; room service; outdoor pool; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer. 

Radisson Ambassador Plaza Hotel & Casino   This property is not a big enough bargain to get you to stay here.  There are better bargains to be had, or you could pay a bit more and get a whole lot more.  It lacks the resort amenities associated with the Hilton, the Condado Plaza, the Ritz-Carlton, and the Hotel El San Juan, as well as a sense of whimsy and fun.  Accommodations are in a pair of towers, one of which is devoted to suites.  Each unit has a balcony with outdoor furniture.  The beds are fitted with fine linens, and each bathroom has generous shelf space and a tub/shower combination. 

Av.  Ashford 1369, San Juan, PR 00907.  www.radisson.com.    800/333-3333 or 787/721-7300.  Fax 787/723-6151.  233 units.  Winter $179–$246 double; off-season $156–$239 double.  11% hotel fee.  AE, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $15; self-parking $13.  Bus: B21 or C10.  Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; babysitting; casino; health club; rooftop pool; room service; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer. 

Moderate

Comfort Inn This family-oriented hotel has small, bland hotel rooms and a small swimming pool, but offers good rates and is near a great beach and the center of Condado.  Each room has either one or two queen-size beds, and each has a tub-and-shower bathroom.  Some rooms have sofas that convert into beds for children.  It's near the area's best beach right behind the La Concha hotel, as well as a newly renovated oceanfront plaza with open-air restaurants and lots of nice spots to hang out on one of the benches.  The rules (no bicycles, no ball games, no pets, no fun) will likely bug your kids if you have them.  That aside, the beach beside the hotel is fantastic for families, with vendors selling ice cream, cold drinks, and snacks.  The beach is wide and partially shaded by a palm grove, and waters are partially protected by a set of breakers. 

Calle Clemenceau 6, Condado, San Juan, PR 00907.  www.comfortinn.com.    800/858-7407 or 787/721-0170.  50 units.  $119 double, $189 suite.  $5 per person hotel fee.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking $15.  Bus: B21 or C10.  Amenities: Outdoor pool; computers with high-speed Internet; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer. 

Inexpensive

Acacia Boutique Hotel ★   This charming inn is steps from Condado's prettiest beach on a shady residential street.  Originally built in 1948, the stucco-covered building with vaguely Spanish-colonial detailing has bright and cheery guest rooms and several fabulous places to just hang out, including a rooftop terrace.  The lobby and the highly-recommended restaurant Niché have granite walls, tiled floors with mood lighting, and are connected by an interior tropical garden.  Each unit has simple furniture and a small shower-only bathroom.  There's a whirlpool and sun deck.  A sister property of At Wind Chimes Inn, guests here can also use the facilities of the nearby guesthouse, which has an interior patio, cafe-bar, and small pool. 

Calle Taft 8, Condado, San Juan, PR 00911.  www.acaciaseasideinn.com.    787/725-0668.  Fax 787/728-0671.  15 units (shower only).  Winter $85–$210 double; summer $135–$165 double.  5% service fee.  AE, DISC, MC, V. Parking $10.  Bus: A5 or B21.  In room: A/C, TV, fridge (in some). 

Aleli by the Sea   This is a lone budget holdout in a sea of expensive hotel options.  Right on the Condado, it's a weathered guesthouse that opens onto the beach 1 block off Ashford Avenue.  Most of the bedrooms, which are small to midsize, overlook the ocean.  It's a spartan spot, with rattan furnishings and cramped shower-only bathrooms.  The second-floor sun deck overlooks the ocean, the perfect spot to watch the sunsets, but there are no great comforts. 

Calle Seaview 1125, Condado, San Juan, PR 00907.    787/725-5313.  Fax 787/721-4744.  9 units (shower only).  Winter $65–$100 double, off-season $55–$90 double (plus $9.45 per night service charge per room)Taxes not included..AE, DISC, MC, V. Limited free parking.  Bus: B21 or C10.  Amenities: Communal kitchen.  In room: A/C, TV, ceiling fan, no phone. 

Atlantic Beach Hotel With the pink piano in the lobby long gone, this five-story hotel still welcomes its core gay clientele but is also reaching out to "open-minded" straight couples and business travelers looking for clean, comfortable, attractive rooms right on the beach at a good price.  The property has undergone a renovation; beds and furnishings are comfortable, and the small guest rooms and common areas have all been redone in a handsome, subdued style, much like the new direction the property has taken.  However, the renovation work was still ongoing in 2012, so you may want to inquire beforehand as construction noise can detract from your stay.  Some of the rooms are smaller than others, so paying a little more will get you more space plus a beach view.  The lobby has been renovated and the bar-cafe on the back deck is a charming spot.  The spacious apartments are a good alternative for business travelers or small groups, and are one of the best bargains in the Condado. 

Calle Vendig 1, Condado, San Juan, PR 00907.  www.atlanticbeachhotel.net.    787/721-6900.  Fax 787/721-6917.  36 units (all with shower only), 6 apts.  Winter $89–$109 double; off-season $69–$89 double; apts.  $750–$1,250 weekly.  9% hotel fee.  AE, DISC, MC, V. Limited parking ($10 per night).  Bus: B21.  Amenities: Restaurant; bar; beach chairs and umbrellas; Wi-Fi; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV. 

At Wind Chimes Inn ★   This restored and renovated Spanish manor, 1 short block from the beach and 3 1/2 miles (5.6km) from the airport, is one of the best guesthouses in Condado.  Upon entering a tropical patio, you'll find tiled tables surrounded by palm trees and bougainvillea.  There's plenty of space on the deck and a covered lounge for relaxing, socializing, and eating breakfast.  Dozens of decorative wind chimes add melody to the daily breezes.  The good-size rooms offer a choice of size, beds, and kitchens; all contain ceiling fans and air-conditioning.  Beds are comfortable and come in four sizes, ranging from twin to king-size.  The shower-only bathrooms, though small, are efficiently laid out.  Families like this place not only because of the accommodations and the affordable prices but because they can also prepare light meals here, cutting down on food costs. 

Av.  McLeary 1750, Condado, San Juan, PR 00911.  www.atwindchimesinn.com.    800/946-3244 or 787/727-4153.  Fax 787/728-0671.  22 units (all with shower only).  Winter $105–$185 double; off-season $85–$155 double.  5% service fee.  AE, DISC, MC, V. Parking $10.  Bus: B21 or A5.  Amenities: Bar; outdoor pool; room service; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, ceiling fan, TV, kitchen (in some). 

Canario Boutique Hotel ★   This little bed-and-breakfast, originally built as a private home, is one of the best values along the high-priced Condado strip.  The location is just 1 block from the beach (you can walk there in your bathing suit).  This well-established hotel lies directly on the landmark Ashford Avenue, center of Condado action, and is close to casinos, nightclubs, and many restaurants in all price ranges.  Although surrounded by megaresorts, it is a simple inn, with rather small but comfortable rooms, with good maintenance by a helpful staff.  All units are smoke-free and have small, tiled, shower-only bathrooms.  You can relax on the hotel's patios or in the whirlpool area, which is surrounded by tropical foliage.  There is no elevator.  Affiliated with the nearby El Canario by the Lagoon and El Canario by the Beach, which are also recommended, this is the most charming of the three El Canario properties.  El Canario by the Sea is right around the block. 

Av.  Ashford 1317, Condado, San Juan, PR 00907.  www.canariohotels.com.    800/533-2649 or 787/722-3861.  Fax 787/722-0391.  25 units (all with shower only).  Winter $105–$149 double, $395 suite; off-season $85–$115 double, $375 suite.  5% hotel fee.  Parking $18 daily.  AE, DC, MC, V. Bus: B21 or A5.  Amenities: Patio, whirlpool.  In room: A/C, ceiling fan, TV. 

Casa del Caribe   Don't expect the Ritz, but if you're looking for a bargain on the Condado, this is it.  This renovated guesthouse was built in the 1940s, later expanded, and then totally refurbished with tropical decor.  A very Puerto Rican ambience has been created, with emphasis on Latin hospitality and comfort.  On a shady side street just off Ashford Avenue, behind a wall and garden, you'll discover Casa del Caribe's wraparound veranda.  The small but cozy guest rooms have ceiling fans and air conditioners, and most feature original Puerto Rican art.  The bedrooms are inviting, with comfortable furnishings and efficiently organized bathrooms.  The front porch is a social center for guests, and you can also cook out at a barbecue area.  The beach is a 2-minute walk away, and the hotel is also within walking distance of some megaresorts, with their glittering casinos. 

Calle Caribe 57, El Condado, San Juan, PR 00907.  www.casadelcaribe.net.    787/722-7139.  Fax 787/723-2575.  13 units.  Winter $85–$125 double, $396 suite; off-season $65–$99 double, $375 suite.  5% room service fee.  Rates include continental breakfast.  AE, DISC, MC, V. Parking $10.  Bus: B21.  Amenities: Smoke-free rooms; 1 room for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, ceiling fan, TV, kitchen (in some). 

Holiday Inn Express This seven-story, white-painted structure offers a desirable Condado location but without the towering prices of the grand resorts along the beach.  The hotel is about a 2-minute walk from Condado Beach and is convenient to Old San Juan (a 15-min.  drive) and the airport (a 20-min.  drive).  Most accommodations have two double beds (ideal for families) and ceiling fans, and each has a small bathroom with tub and shower.  Many open onto balconies with water views.  There's a small pool with a nice shaded area as well.  It's close to the renovated La Concha and the Window of the Sea Park beside it.  For years, I avoided this area beside the Condado Lagoon, which suffered from the closure of La Concha and neighboring hotels, as well as sewage backups during heavy rains.  This problem has abated, and with the new hotel now opened, this area of Avenida Ashford is now home to top-name designer boutiques and great restaurants of all price ranges.  So we're hot on this 'hood again, making this one of your better budget options. 

Calle Marinao Ramirez Bages 1, Condado, San Juan, PR 00907.  www.ichotels.com.    888/465-4329 or 787/724-4160.  Fax 787/721-2436.  115 units.  Winter $169–$179 double; off-season $129–$139 (weekend surcharges apply).  $5.50 service fee.  Rates include continental breakfast.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking $15.  Bus: B21.  Amenities: Health club; pool; whirlpool; Wi-Fi.  In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer. 

Miramar

Miramar, a residential neighborhood, is very much a part of metropolitan San Juan, and a brisk 30-minute walk will take you where the action is.  Regrettably, a good beach is about a mile away.  It's also home to the new Convention Center District, two marinas, and a commuter airport. 

Best For: Visitors who come to Puerto Rico to attend an event at the Convention Center located here. 

Drawbacks: It's far from the beach, has few hotels and rooms, and few tourist attractions or amenities except for a string of fine restaurants and some interesting shops. 

For the location of hotels in Miramar, see the map. 

Marriott Courtyard San Juan Miramar   This handsome, budget-friendly, family-owned hotel only makes sense if you plan to rent a car and drive to a different destination every day; as well, if you're tied to the nearby Convention Center, this is a viable budget alternative.  Otherwise, if your main priority is the beach, this hotel is probably too far away.  Because the Condado Lagoon and the Baldorioty De Castro Expressway are between the hotel and the beach, you'll walk about 45 minutes to reach many favorite spots.  The hotel is in upscale Miramar, with great restaurants, fun shops, and an art-film movie house.  The restaurants attract area doctors, lawyers, and politicians for lunch, and a broader cross-section of sanjuaneros for dinner.  The pool area is small but sunny, and the public areas have wireless Internet access.  The guest rooms are of good quality, if uninspired. 

Av.  Ponce de León 801, San Juan, PR 00907.  www.marriott.com.    800/289-4274 or 787/721-7400.  Fax 787/722-1787.  140 units.  Winter $209–274 double; off-season $129–154 double.  9% hotel fee.  Top rate includes children 12 and under.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking $15.  Bus: 1, 2, A3, or A5.  Amenities: 2 restaurants; babysitting; health club; room service; outdoor pool; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV/DVD, hair dryer, movie rentals. 

Sheraton Puerto Rico Hotel & Casino This new property is an integral part of the Puerto Rico Convention District, and it seems as if you can see the imposing yet graceful Convention Center arch out any window you look.  The two properties embrace big spaces with glass, open to the amazing sky and the futuristic yet tropical landscape surrounding it, and even a bit of the Atlantic Ocean crashing in the distance.  The hotel facilities, which include the island's largest casino and a fabulous health club and spa, are first-rate, but this is still primarily a convention hotel, appropriate for those who plan on spending a lot of time at the adjacent Convention Center.  The good news is the property will probably surpass most guests' expectations.  The public interiors are subdued and stylish, and the good taste extends to the guest rooms, which are more comfortable and spacious than the average hotel room, especially the hotel beds.  It's within a mile of most good city beaches, as well as Old San Juan and Plaza Las Americas, but that mile feels a lot longer when you are on vacation.  You are better off at one of the resorts right on the Condado or Isla Verde beaches than staying here, unless you are spending your mornings at the Convention Center. 

200 Convention Blvd.,  San Juan, Puerto Rico 00907.  www.sheratonpuertoricohotelcasino.com.    866/932-7269 or 787/993-3500.  Fax 787/993-3505.  503 units.  Winter $229–$259 double, $329–$439 suites; off-season $219–$249 double, $319–$429 suite; $1,399–$2,409 San Juan suite; $3,099–$3,199 presidential suite.  Resort fee 14%.  Children 16 and under stay free in parent's room (max.  4 people per room).  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $22; self-parking $16.  Bus: C53.  Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; babysitting; casino; health club; room service; complete spa; smoke-free rooms; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi. 

Santurce & Ocean Park

Santurce is the traditional downtown area of San Juan, and Ocean Park is a beautiful oceanfront neighborhood wedged in between the Condado and Isla Verde tourism districts.  Santurce has been undergoing a revival, with Art Deco theaters and beautiful apartments being renovated; it's now the home to the city's best museums, performing arts center, and increasingly, among its best clubs and pubs.  Ocean Park is a beautiful neighborhood, filled with palm trees and gorgeous homes, and has the city's most charming beach, fronted by low-slung homes and guest houses rather than the towering luxury condominiums and resorts that line Condado and Isla Verde.  There are no suitable hotel rooms in downtown Santurce, but Ocean Park has some of the best guesthouses in the city. 

Best For: Visitors who want to feel the sand between their toes as much as possible, and prefer an intimate inn to a big hotel or resort. 

Drawbacks: No resort-style swimming pools.  The area is quiet at night and you need a cab to go to Condado, Isla Verde, or Old San Juan after sundown. 

Moderate

Hosteria del Mar ★ This guesthouse offers medium-size, oceanview rooms on one of the city's best beaches.  Those on the second floor have balconies; those on the first floor open onto patios.  The close-to-nature tropical guesthouse has an inviting beachfront dining area.  Suites and efficiencies are available.  Room 201 has a king-size bed, private balcony, kitchenette, and a view of the beach; it's a private getaway.  There's no pool, but you are right on the beach.  Uvva is one of the hardest-working restaurants in town, open from 8am to 10pm, and it doesn't just serve food.  It goes beyond basic breakfast and lunch choices, also throwing in some cutting-edge, creative world cuisine.  On a beachfront street completely enveloped by a canopy of trees, this is one of San Juan's most charming spots.  Given the setting, the place is simple, but puts out its own elegance and warm hospitality. 

Calle Tapía 1, Ocean Park, San Juan, PR 00911.  hosteria@caribe.net.    877/727-3302 or 787/727-3302.  Fax 787/268-3302.  27 units.  High season $139–$179 double, $229 apt.;  off-season $99–$139 double, $179 apt.  $10 resort fee.  Children 11 and under stay free in parent's room.  No parking.  Dogs under 40 pounds allowed in room for $25 per night.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Bus: A5.  Amenities: Restaurant; room service.  In room: A/C, TV, kitchenette (in 3 units), Wi-Fi. 

Número 1 Guest House ★★   This is the best of the small-scale, low-rise guesthouses in Ocean Park.  A massive renovation of this 1950s private beach house transformed the place into the closest thing in Ocean Park to the kind of stylish boutique hotel you might find in an upscale California neighborhood.  Much of this is thanks to the hardworking owner, who cultivates within her walled compound a verdant garden replete with splashing fountains, a small swimming pool, and manicured shrubbery and palms.  Stylish-looking bedrooms (all of which are smoke-free) contain tile floors, wicker or rattan furniture, comfortable beds, and tiled, shower-only bathrooms.  The restaurant, bar, and outdoor cafe attract an interesting crowd, as does the guest house.  This is more low-key than Condado and Isla Verde, but the beach and the crowd are prettier, and the chatter over sunset drinks much more interesting. 

Calle Santa Ana 1, Ocean Park, San Juan, PR 00911.  www.numero1guesthouse.com.    866/726-5010 or 787/726-5010.  Fax 787/727-5482.  13 units (shower only), including economy, oceanview, junior suites, and apts.  Dec 15–Apr 30 $149–$299; May 1–July 31 and Nov 1–Dec 14 $99–$259; Aug 1–Oct 31 $89–$199.  Hotel fee 15%.  Rates include continental breakfast.  AE, MC, V. Bus: C53, A5.  Amenities: Restaurant; bar; outdoor pool; limited room service; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, ceiling fan, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi. 

Inexpensive

Oceana Hostal Playero   Yeah, it's a block from the beach, but it's the best beach in the city—so you might say that's better than beachfront at another beach.  In any case, this B&B deserves to be better known.  With the recent closing of the nearby L'Habitation (still up for sale), Oceana is the best bargain in Ocean Park.  It's a comfortable, snug nest with helpful, friendly staff and clean, newly renovated rooms.  All units have small refrigerators and tiled bathrooms with either a tub or a shower.  The entire property is a Wi-Fi zone, and there's complimentary breakfast on the outdoor patio.  There are small pool and sundeck areas.  The PuraVida restaurant lounge serves good local and vegetarian cuisine.  The most recent renovations have greatly improved this guesthouse since the days of the old Beach Buoy Inn, and the price is still nice. 

Av.  McLeary 1853, Ocean Park, San Juan, PR 00911.    787/728-8119.  Fax 787/727-5748.  17 units (some shower only, some tub only).  Winter $134 double, $197–$242 suites; off-season $109 double, $179–$229 suites.  $10 per night hotel fee.  Rates include continental breakfast.  MC, V. Free parking.  Bus: A5 or A7.  Amenities: Restaurant; 1 room for those w/limited mobility, Wi-Fi.  In room: A/C, TV, fridge, no phone. 

Tres Palmas Inn   Across the street from the ocean, this apartment-style guesthouse overlooks a windswept stretch of beach at the eastern end of Ocean Park, right before it disappears into the rocky coastline along Punta Las Marías.  The beautiful beach at Ultimo Trolley is a block west, and the hotel's pool is located in a secluded courtyard.  You can also relax on the rooftop sun deck while soaking in the whirlpool.  The medium-size bedrooms are simply but comfortably furnished, with rather standard motel items.  Each guest room has a private entrance and a ceiling fan, and most have small refrigerators.  Larger rooms also have small kitchens, and each unit has a small, tiled bathroom with either a tub or a shower.  We have friends who love this place and always stay here on annual visits to the island. 

Ocean Park Blvd.  2212, San Juan, PR 00913.    888/290-2076 or 787/727-4617.  Fax 787/727-5434.  www.trespalmasinn.com.  18 units (some with shower only, some with tub only).  Winter $136–$225 double; off-season $109–$180 double.  Rates include continental breakfast.  AE, MC, V. Bus: A5 or A7.  Amenities: Internet access; pool; sun deck; 2 whirlpools; 1 room for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, fridge (in some), kitchen (in some), hair dryer. 

Isla Verde

The fat golden beach is mighty fine, and the top hotels fronting it, such as the Ritz-Carlton, El San Juan, and InterContinental, have verdant pool areas, large pools, watersports of all sorts, and lounge chairs along the beach.  The great restaurants and clubs at the hotels alone make Isla Verde a great nightlife spot, but there are numerous stand-alone restaurants, pubs, and clubs of top quality.  It's the nearest vacation spot to the airport.  Its main drag is filled with U.S.-based or -styled stores and restaurants, and there are many local spots as well. 

Best For: Visitors who want to stay at a resort-style hotel; spend as much time on the beach as possible; and want to be entertained and wined and dined near their hotel. 

Drawbacks: Isla Verde is the least cultural part of San Juan, and Avenida Isla Verde is like many other overdeveloped roadways in the U.S., with strip malls and towering condominiums.  If you want to discover what Puerto Rico is like, you have to leave the neighborhood. 

Very Expensive

El San Juan Hotel & Casino: The Waldorf Astoria Collection ★★   Despite formidable competition by the Ritz-Carlton for elite and sophisticated travelers, this posh resort still has the power to dazzle.  The beachfront hotel is surrounded by 350 palms, century-old banyans, and gardens.  It lies on a 3.2km-long (2-mile) golden sandy beach with aquamarine water that is the finest in San Juan.  Lined with luxury hotels and condominiums, the beach is always full of activity and has great watersports activities. 

The lobby is the most opulent and memorable in the Caribbean.  Entirely sheathed in red marble and hand-carved mahogany paneling, the public rooms stretch on almost endlessly.  A rich diversity of dining options add up to high-quality food.  With live music and DJs playing at nightclubs nearly every night, and a beautiful casino, El San Juan is still the place to be seen in the city. 

The large, well-decorated rooms are outfitted with the latest in high tech.  The Vista guest rooms are bright and tropical, while the Lanai rooms are imbued with honey-hued woods and rattans, with darker wooden doors, windows, and other furnishing.  Bathrooms have all the amenities and tub/shower combinations; a few feature Jacuzzis.  The oceanfront Lanai rooms overlook the fern-lined paths of the resort's tropical garden. 

Av.  Isla Verde 6063, San Juan, PR 00979.  www.luxuryresorts.com.    787/791-1000 or 888/579-2632.  Fax 787/791-0390.  382 units.  Winter $229–$629 double, $769–$2,549 suite; off-season $179–$559 double, from $689–$2,299 suite.  Resort fee 14%.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $20; self-parking $16.  Bus: A5, C53.  Amenities: 7 restaurants; 4 bars; babysitting; casino; children's programs; health club; 2 outdoor pools; room service; sauna and steam room; spa; tennis courts; watersports equipment/rentals; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV w/in-house movies, hair dryer, iPod docking station, minibar, Wi-Fi. 

InterContinental San Juan Resort & Casino ★ This may not be the trendiest spot along Avenida Isla Verde, but it's a great place to play by day or night.  The pool area and the cafe overlooking the beach are among the finest spots on the island.  It fronts one of the city's prettiest and most active beaches.  The comfortable, medium-size rooms have balconies and terraces and tastefully conservative furnishings.  Executive Club–level rooms carry additional features, such as complimentary meals and drinks.  The oceanside Ciao Mediterranean Café is one of the best spots in the city for an afternoon drink, lunch, or snack.  Sit on a table along the boardwalk overlooking the beach in the shade of towering palm trees.  Guests will want to venture elsewhere for nightlife, however, which is all nearby. 

Av.  Isla Verde 5961, Isla Verde, PR 00979.  www.ichotelsgroup.com.    800/468-9076 or 787/791-6100.  Fax 787/253-2510.  402 units.  Winter $239–$288 double, $297–$810 suite; off-season $179–$198 double, $234–$618 suite.  16% resort fee.  Children 15 and under stay free in parent's room.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $25; self-parking $20.  Bus: A5, C53.  Amenities: 3 restaurants; lounge; babysitting; health club; pool; room service; sauna; scuba diving; whirlpool; Wi-Fi; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar. 

Ritz-Carlton San Juan Spa & Casino ★★★ This deluxe hotel dazzles guests but also remains surprisingly relaxed, intimate, and amiable.  Set on 8 acres (3.2 hectares) of prime beachfront, within a 5-minute drive from the airport, it appeals to business travelers and vacationers alike.  The decor reflects Caribbean flavor and Latin culture, with artwork by prominent local artists, and an emphasis on Continental elegance, with public areas made opulent with wrought-iron balustrades and crystal chandeliers. 

The large guest rooms are outfitted with beautiful furniture and fine linens, plus marble bathrooms with tub/shower combinations, scales, bathrobes, and deluxe toiletries.  Rooms have ocean views or the gardens of nearby condos.  Preferred accommodations are in the ninth-floor Ritz-Carlton Club, which has a private lounge and personal concierge staff. 

The scope and diversity of dining here is second only to that at the El San Juan Hotel & Casino (see above), and as for top-shelf dining venues, the Ritz-Carlton has no equal.  Renowned gourmet chains BLT Steak and Il Mulino of New York are both located here.  The hotel also houses one of Puerto Rico's largest casinos, and it's most stylishly elegant.  This is a great spot for families, with a full range of children's activities and a great beach for kids, with lots of watersports options for active families. 

Av.  de los Gobernadores (State Rd.)  6961, No.  187, Isla Verde, PR 00979.  www.ritzcarlton.com.    800/241-3333 or 787/253-1700.  Fax 787/253-1777.  416 units.  Winter $529–$769 double, $789–$2,012 suite; off-season $299–$599 double, $759–$1,759 suite.  Resort fee 16%.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $25; self-parking $17.  Bus: A5.  Amenities: 5 restaurants; 3 bars; nightclub; babysitting; Caribbean's largest casino; children's program; health club; large pool; room service; spa; 2 tennis courts; rooms for those w/limited mobility; Wi-Fi.  In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar. 

  family-friendly Accommodations

At Wind Chimes Inn Families like this hotel not only because of the accommodations and the affordable prices, but also because they can prepare meals here, cutting down on food costs. 

Caribe Hilton This hotel is known for its children's programs.  Its supervised Kids' Klub provides daily activities—ranging from face painting to swimming lessons—for children 5 to 12 years of age.  With a gorgeous pool and private beach, it's perfect for families. 

Hampton Inn  For families seeking the kind of lodging values found on the mainland, this new hotel is highly desirable, as many of its rooms have two double beds.  There's also a beautiful swimming pool in a tropical setting.  Suites have microwaves and refrigerators. 

InterContinental San Juan Resort & Casino  This hotel began a children's program last year that leaped into the lead of San Juan hotels.  The Planet Trekkers Kids Club is environmentally friendly, leading children through activities such as watching the migration of an adopted sea turtle, Naya, on its migratory path from Panama to Puerto Rico.  The program is just plain fun, with outdoor sports and pool activities, indoor games competitions, and movie and disco nights.  It lets parents enjoy their stay, too. 

Ritz-Carlton  For the family seeking an upmarket resort with lots of facilities, this is among the top choices.  There's a full range of children's activities: arts and crafts, bowling, sandcastle sculpting, sports, board games, and Spanish lessons.  It's also a great place for active families, with plenty of watersports opportunities.  Lessons and rentals are available for surfing, windsurfing, kite surfing, and sailing. 

Expensive

Courtyard by Marriott Isla Verde Beach Resort ★   This charming property is on a beautiful beach at the end of Isla Verde, with the public beach just to the east, and Pine Grove beach, popular with surfers and sailors, just to the west.  Meals and drinks are served on a wraparound veranda, and there are comfortable hammocks and beach chairs beside the pool and the beach in front.  Updated comfort makes it suitable for business travelers, families, or the random vacationer.  The 12-floor hotel rises on the site of the old Crowne Plaza.  It's a big, bustling place with many amenities and midsize and well-furnished bedrooms.  Art Deco furnishings dominate, and there is plenty of comfort.  The casino and lobby restaurants are filled with the sounds of Latin rhythms at night.  The pool and beach are great for kids.  They can get surf lessons down the beach on foam boards designed for beginners.  The proximity of the airport brings some noise, and the hotel's price tag has been on the rise. 

Boca de Cangrejos Avenida 7012, Isla Verde, PR 00979.  www.sjcourtyard.com.    800/791-2553 or 787/791-0404.  Fax 787/791-1460.  293 units.  Winter $199–$285 double, $335–$385 suite; off-season $165–$240 double, $290–$340 suite.  16% hotel fee.  Valet parking $20; self-parking $15.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Bus: M7.  Amenities: 3 restaurants; ice-cream parlor; bar; casino; kids' club; fitness center; pool; room service; high-speed Internet.  In room: A/C, TV, minibar, hair dryer. 

Embassy Suites Hotel & Casino This all-suite hotel is 2 blocks from the beach, but it tries to compensate with a water world of waterfalls and reflecting ponds set against a backdrop of palms, as well as a large aquarium.  The excellent accommodations are comfortably furnished and roomy, with bedrooms separated from the living rooms.  Each has a wet bar, a tub/shower combination bathroom, two phones, a safe, and a dining table.  The most spacious suites are those with two double beds; each of the smaller suites is furnished with a king-size bed.  The best view of the water is from units above the third floor.  Two restaurants are on the premises, including the Embassy Grill, a low-key indoor/outdoor affair, and an independently managed Outback Steakhouse branch.  There's also a small-scale casino on the property. 

Calle José M. Tartak 8000, Isla Verde, San Juan, PR 00979.  www.embassysuites.com.    800/362-2779 or 787/791-0505.  Fax 787/991-7776.  299 suites.  Winter $239 1-bedroom suite, $329 2-bedroom suite; off-season $199 1-bedroom suite, $299 2-bedroom suite.  Rates include breakfast and free happy hour 5:30–7:30pm.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $20; self-parking $16.  Bus: A5 or B21.  Amenities: 2 restaurants; 3 bars; small casino; health club; pool; room service; rooms for those w/limited mobility; Wi-Fi.  In room: A/C, TV, wet bar, fridge, hair dryer, microwave. 

San Juan Water Beach Club Hotel ★ This contemporary boutique hotel is a refreshing change from the mega-chain resorts of San Juan, even if guests find signs of wear and tear.  Avant-garde but never off-putting, the illuminated lobby might recall 2001: A Space Odyssey, but it's still warm and friendly.  Behind glass are "waterfalls," even on the elevators, and inventive theatrical-style lighting is used to bring the outdoors inside.  The one-of-a-kind glass art doors are from Murano, the famed center of glassmaking outside Venice.  A drawback is that rooms are smaller than most, and so is the closet and dresser space.  The hotel overlooks Isla Verde's best beach area.  Unique features are the open-air 11th-floor exotic bar with the Caribbean's only rooftop fireplace.  There's a rooftop pool and sundeck; it's like swimming in an ocean in the sky.  This hotel is super pet friendly; it offers four-legged friends complimentary doggie bags and their owners welcome drinks.  Grooming, walking, and massage services are available. 

Calle José M. Tartak 2, Isla Verde, Puerto Rico 00979.  www.waterclubsanjuan.com.    888/265-6699 or 787/253-3666.  Fax 787/728-3610.  84 units.  Winter $177–$203 double; off-season $140–$165 double.  Hotel fee 14%.  Parking $15 daily.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Bus: A5, B21.  Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; fitness center; Jacuzzi; outdoor rooftop pool; room service; smoke-free rooms; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, high-speed Internet, minibar. 

Moderate

Hampton Inn   Located across the busy avenue from Isla Verde's sandy beachfront, it is far enough away to keep costs down but within a leisurely 10-minute walk to beaches, casinos, and nightlife.  Two towers, with four and five floors, hold the well-maintained, well-furnished, and comfortable bedrooms.  There's no restaurant on the premises and no real garden; other than a whirlpool and a swimming pool with a swim-up bar, there are very few facilities or amenities.  Because of its reasonable prices and location, however, this Isla Verde newcomer could be a good choice.  Families are especially fond of staying here, despite the fact that there are no special children's programs; many of the rooms have two double beds, and suites have microwaves and refrigerators. 

Av.  Isla Verde 6530, Isla Verde, PR 00979.  <http://hamptoninn3.hilton.com>.    800/HAMPTON (426-7866) or 787/791-8777.  Fax 787/791-8757.  201 units.  Winter $169 double, $179–189 suite; off-season $149 double, $159–$199 suite.  Rates include breakfast bar.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking $10.  Bus: A5 or C45.  Amenities: Bar; babysitting; health club; high-speed Internet, pool; whirlpool; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, fridge (in suites), hair dryer, microwave (in suites). 

Howard Johnson Hotel A good choice for the money, this hotel rises eight stories above the busy traffic of Isla Verde, offering comfortable but small bedrooms, furnished simply with bland, modern furniture.  They're done in typical motel style, with small but serviceable tub-and-shower bathrooms.  Many guests carry a tote bag to the beach across the street, and then hit the bars and restaurants of the expensive hotels nearby.  There's a restaurant and a pool. 

Av.  Isla Verde 4820, Isla Verde, PR 00979.  www.hojo.com.    787/728-1300.  Fax 787/727-7150.  115 units.  Winter $196–$231 double, $249 suite; summer $137 double, $176 suite.  AE, MC, V. Parking $7.  Bus: A5.  Amenities: 2 restaurants; health club; pool; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer. 

Inexpensive

The Coquí Inn   The beach is about a 10-minute walk, and you have to cross Baldorioty de Castro Expressway to get to Isla Verde's main drag and the beach (via pedestrian bridge), but the inn is a real deal, and just over the bridge is the nicest part of Isla Verde.  This property incorporates three former guesthouses in the area (the Mango Inn, Green Isle Inn, and Casa Mathiesen).  Guests get access to three pools, each with terraces with lounge chairs and umbrellas, and an Asian restaurant and American–Puerto Rican cafe.  You'll find free Wi-Fi, public computers, a video-game room, and movie rentals.  The rooms are summery, simple, and comfortable, with tiled tub-and-shower bathrooms. 

Calle Mar Mediterraneo 36, Villamar, Isla Verde, PR 00979.  www.coqui-inn.com.    787/726-4330 or 787/726-8662.  Fax 787/268-2415.  54 units.  $69–$79 double.  AE, DISC, MC, V. Free parking.  Bus: A5.  Amenities: Restaurants; bar; shared areas w/microwaves and fridges; 3 pools; rooms for those w/limited mobility; Wi-Fi.  In room: A/C, TV, kitchenette (in some). 
Chapter 5: San Juan Attractions

The Spanish began to settle in the area now known as Old San Juan around 1521.  At the outset, the city was called Puerto Rico ("Rich Port"), and the whole island was known as San Juan.  The streets are narrow and teeming with traffic, but a walk through Old San Juan—in Spanish, El Viejo San Juan—makes for a good stroll.  Some visitors have likened it to a "Disney park with an Old World theme."  Even fast food restaurants and junk stores are housed in historic buildings.  It's the biggest and best collection of historic buildings, stretching back 5 centuries, in all the Caribbean.  You can do it in less than a day.  In this historic 7-square-block area of the western side of the city, you can see many of Puerto Rico's chief sightseeing attractions and do some shopping along the way. 

On the other hand, you might want to plop down on the sand with a drink or get outside and play. " Diving, Fishing, Tennis & Other Outdoor Pursuits," later in this chapter, describes the beaches and sports in the San Juan area. 

Seeing the Sights

Old San Juan Attractions

Forts

Castillo de San Felipe del Morro ★★★   Called "El Morro," this fort stands on a rocky promontory dominating the entrance to San Juan Bay.  Constructed in 1540, the original fort was a round tower, which can still be seen deep inside the lower levels of the castle.  More walls and cannon-firing positions were added, and by 1787, the fortification attained the complex design you see today.  This fortress was attacked repeatedly by both the English and the Dutch. 

The U.S. National Park Service protects the fortifications of Old San Juan, which, together, have been declared a World Heritage Site by the United Nations.  With some of the most dramatic views in the Caribbean, you'll find El Morro an intriguing labyrinth of dungeons, barracks, vaults, lookouts, and ramps.  Historical and background information is provided in a video in English and Spanish.  The nearest parking is the underground facility beneath the Quincentennial Plaza at the Ballajá barracks (Cuartel de Ballajá) on Calle Norzagaray.  Park rangers will lead hour-long tours for free, although you can also visit on your own. 

The park, along with Fort San Cristóbal (see below), form the San Juan National Historic Site.  The forts are connected by ancient underground tunnels, but today two modern trolleys ferry visitors back and forth.  The walk, however, is beautiful along the oceanfront Calle Norzagary.  A museum at El Morro provides a history of the fort through exhibits of historic photographs and artifacts, written orientations, and a video presentation.  A guided tour is offered hourly, but informational brochures allow you to walk around on your own while learning the story.  There's also a gift shop.  Make sure to walk out on the northernmost point, a narrow wedge overlooking the waves crashing into the rocky coast.  The promenade circling the base of the fort is also worth exploring.  The grounds of El Morro are a great spot to fly a kite, and families and children are out every weekend doing so.  An annual festival is in March.  You can buy a kite at stands right in front of the fort, or at Puerto Rico Drug or Walgreens on Plaza Colón.  There's a parking garage near its entrance. 

At the end of Calle Norzagaray.    787/729-6960.  Admission $3 adults (16 and older) for one fort, $5 for both, $2 for seniors, free for children 15 and under.  Daily 9am–6pm.  Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year's.  Parking: 1st hour free, $2 hourly thereafter.  Bus: A5, B21, or B40. 

Fort San Cristóbal ★★★ CASTLE Construction on this huge fortress began in 1634.  The structure was reengineered in the 1770s, and is one of the largest ever built in the Americas by Spain.  Its walls rise more than 150 feet (46m) above the sea—a marvel of military engineering.  San Cristóbal protected San Juan against attackers coming by land as a partner to El Morro, to which it is linked by a half-mile (.8km) of monumental walls and bastions filled with cannon-firing positions.  A complex system of tunnels and dry moats connects the center of San Cristóbal to its "outworks," defensive elements arranged layer after layer over a 27-acre (11-hectare) site.  You'll get the idea if you look at the scale model on display.  Like El Morro, the fort is administered and maintained by the U.S. National Park Service.  Be sure to see the Garitadel Diablo (the Devil's Sentry Box), one of the oldest parts of San Cristóbal's defenses, and famous in Puerto Rican legend.  The devil himself, it is said, would snatch away sentinels at this lonely post at the edge of the sea.  In 1898, the first shots of the Spanish-American War in Puerto Rico were fired by cannons on top of San Cristóbal during an artillery duel with a U.S. Navy fleet.  Park rangers lead hour-long tours for free here, too, but wandering on your own is fun. 

In the northeast corner of Old San Juan (uphill from Plaza de Colón, on Calle Norzagaray).    787/729-6960.  Admission $3 adults (16 and older) one fort, $5 both forts, free for children 15 and under.  Daily 9am–6pm.  Bus: A5, B21, or B40; then the free trolley from Covadonga station to the top of the hill. 

Churches

Capilla de Cristo CHURCH Cristo Chapel was built to commemorate what legend says was a miracle.  In 1753, a young rider lost control of his horse in a race down this very street during the fiesta of St. John's Day and plunged over the precipice.  Moved by the accident, the secretary of the city, Don Mateo Pratts, invoked Christ to save the youth, and he had the chapel built when his prayers were answered.  Today it's a landmark in the old city and one of its best-known historical monuments.  The chapel's gold and silver altar can be seen through its glass doors.  Because the chapel is open only 1 day a week, most visitors have to settle for a view of its exterior. 

Calle del Cristo (directly west of Paseo de la Princesa).    787/722-0861.  Free admission.  Tues 8am–5pm.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

Catedral de San Juan ★★ CATHEDRAL The spiritual and architectural centerpiece of Old San Juan began construction in 1540 as a replacement for a thatch-roofed chapel that was blown apart by a hurricane in 1529.  Chronically hampered by a lack of funds and a recurring series of military and weather-derived disasters, it slowly evolved into the gracefully vaulted, Gothic-inspired structure you see today.  Among the many disasters to hit this cathedral are the following: In 1598, the Earl of Cumberland led the British navy in a looting spree; in 1615, a hurricane blew away its roof; in 1908, the body of Ponce de León was disinterred from the nearby Iglesia de San José and placed in a marble tomb near the transept, where it remains today (see the box "Ponce de León: Man of Myth & Legend," in chapter 2, for more about Ponce de León).  The cathedral also contains the wax-covered mummy of St. Pio, a Roman martyr persecuted and killed for his Christian faith.  The mummy has been encased in a glass box ever since it was placed here in 1862.  To the right of the mummy is a bizarre wooden replica of Mary with four swords stuck in her bosom.  After all the looting and destruction over the centuries, the cathedral's great treasures, including gold and silver, are long gone, although many beautiful stained-glass windows remain.  The cathedral faces Plaza de las Monjas (the Nuns' Square), a shady spot where you can rest in front of Hotel El Convento. 

Calle del Cristo 153 (at Caleta San Juan).    787/722-0861.  Free admission.  Mon–Sat 8am–4pm; Sun 8am–2pm.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

  Joggers' Trail or Romantic Walk

El Morro Trail, a jogger's paradise, provides the Old City's most scenic views along San Juan Bay.  The first part of the trail extends to the San Juan Gate.  The walk then goes by El Morro and eventually reaches a scenic area known as Bastion de Santa Barbara.  The walk passes El Morro's well-preserved walls, and the trail ends at the entrance to the fortress.  The walkway is designed to follow the undulating movement of the ocean, and sea grapes and tropical vegetation surround benches.  The trail is romantic at night, when the walls of the fortress are illuminated.  Stop at the tourist office for a map, and then set off on the adventure. 

Museums

San Juan Attractions

Many of the museums in Old San Juan close for lunch between 11:45am and 2pm, so schedule your activities accordingly if you intend to museum-hop. 

Felisa Rincón Museum de Gautier MUSEUM The most heralded woman of modern Puerto Rico served as the mayor of San Juan for 22 consecutive years, between 1946 and 1968.  The museum that commemorates her is in a 300-year-old building a few blocks downhill from San Juan's cathedral, near one of the medieval gates (La Puerta San Juan) that pierces the walls of the Old City.  The interior is devoted to the life and accomplishments of Felisa Rincón de Gautier, and proudly displays some of her personal furniture and artifacts, as well as 212 plaques, 308 certificates of merit, 11 honorary doctorates, and 113 symbolic keys to other cities, such as Gary, Indiana, and Perth Amboy, New Jersey.  Her particular areas of influence included child welfare and elementary education.  Photographs show her with luminaries ranging from Eleanor Roosevelt to the pope.  The oldest of nine children, and the daughter of a local lawyer and a schoolteacher, she shouldered the responsibilities of rearing her younger siblings after the death of her mother when she was 12.  Today the museum illuminates Doña Felisa's life as well as the reverence in which Puerto Ricans hold their most celebrated political matriarch.  As such, it's a quirky, intensely personalized monument that combines a strong sense of feminism with Puerto Rican national pride. 

Caleta de San Juan 51, at Recinto Oeste.    787/723-1897.  Free admission.  Mon–Fri 9am–4pm.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

Luis Muñoz Marín Foundation CULTURAL INSTITUTION A 30-minute drive south of San Juan, this museum offers a chance to visit the former home of the island's most famous governor, Luis Muñoz Marín.  As the first elected governor of Puerto Rico, Muñoz Marín enjoys somewhat the same position in Puerto Rican history that George Washington does for the mainland United States.  A documentary acquaints you with the governor's life and achievements.  You can walk through Marín's study and library and view his extensive art collection, and later you can relax in his tropical garden and gazebo.  There's an historic archive; the shop and the grounds surrounding the foundation have been restored recently. 

Marginal Rd.  877, Km 0.4, Trujillo Alto Expwy.    787/755-7979.  Admission $6 adults, $3 children and seniors 60 and older.  Tours Mon–Fri (reservations required) 10am and 2pm, Sat–Sun 10:30am and 1pm.  Bus: C31 or public car from Plaza Colón (easier). 

Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico ★★ ART MUSEUM Puerto Rico's most important art museum since opening in 2000, it was constructed at a cost of $55 million and is a state-of-the-art showcase for the island nation's rich cultural heritage, as reflected mainly through its painters.  Housed in a former city hospital in Santurce, the museum features both a permanent collection and temporary exhibitions.  Prominent local artists are the stars—for example, Francisco Oller (1833–1917), who brought a touch of Cézanne or Camille Pissarro to Puerto Rico (Oller actually studied in France with both of these impressionists).  Another leading star of the permanent collection is José Campeche, a late-18th-century classical painter.  The museum is like a living textbook of Puerto Rico, beginning with its early development and going on to showcase camp aspects, such as the poster art created here in the mid–20th century.  All the important modern island artists are also presented, including the late Rafael Tufiño and Angel Botello, Arnaldo Roche Rabelle, and Antonio Martorell.  The building itself is a gem, and you have to stroll through the relaxing botanical gardens behind. 

Av.  José de Diego 299, Santurce.  www.mapr.org.    787/977-6277.  Admission $6 adults; $3 students, seniors, and children; free for children 4 and under and seniors over 75; free for all on Wed 2–8pm.  Tues and Thurs–Sat 10am–5pm; Wed 10am–8pm; Sun 11am–6pm.  Bus: A5 or B21. 

Museo de Arte e Historia de San Juan MUSEUM Located in a Spanish colonial building at the corner of Calle MacArthur, this cultural center was the city's main marketplace in the mid–19th century.  Local art is displayed in the east and west galleries, and audiovisual materials reveal the history of the city.  Sometimes major cultural events are staged in the museum's large courtyard.  English- and Spanish-language audiovisual shows are presented Tuesday to Friday every hour on the hour from 9am to 4pm.  Some of the city's finest young artists show here. 

Calle Norzagaray 150.    787/724-1875.  Free admission, but donations accepted.  Tues–Fri 9am–4pm; Sat–Sun 10am–4pm.  Bus: To Old San Juan terminal; then the Old City Trolley. 

Museo de las Américas ★ MUSEUM This museum showcases the artisans of North, South, and Central America, featuring everything from carved figureheads from New England whaling ships to dugout canoes carved by Carib Indians in Dominica.  It is unique in Puerto Rico and well worth a visit.  Also on display is a changing collection of paintings by artists from throughout the Spanish-speaking world, and a permanent collection called "Puerto Rican Santos," donated by Dr. Ricardo Alegría.  Make sure to see the Indigenous Peoples of the Americas exhibit. 

Sala Cuartel de Ballajá, at Calle Norzagaray and Calle del Morro.    787/724-5052.  Admission $3 students with ID, $2 children 12 and under, students and seniors 65 and up.  Tues–Sat 9am–noon and 1–4pm, Sun noon–5pm.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

Museo de Pablo Casals MUSEUM This museum is devoted to the memorabilia left to the people of Puerto Rico by the musician Pablo Casals.  The maestro's cello is here, along with a library of videotapes (which can be played upon request) of some of his festival concerts.  This small 18th-century house also contains manuscripts and photographs of Casals.  The annual Casals Festival draws worldwide interest and internationally known performing artists; it's held from the end of February through early March. 

Plaza San José, Calle San Sebastián 101.    787/723-9185.  Admission $1 adults, 50¢ students and children.  Tues–Sat 9:30am–4pm.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

Historic Sights

In addition to the forts and churches listed earlier, you might want to see the sites described below. 

San Juan Gate, Calle San Francisco and Calle Recinto Oeste, built around 1635, just north of La Fortaleza, several blocks downhill from the cathedral, was the main point of entry into San Juan, if you arrived by ship in the 17th and 18th centuries.  The gate is the only one remaining of the several that once pierced the fortifications of the old walled city.  For centuries, it was closed at sundown to cut off access to the historic Old Town. ( Bus: Old City Trolley.) 

Plazuela de la Rogativa, Caleta de las Monjas, a little plaza with a statue of a bishop and three women, commemorating one of Puerto Rico's most famous legends.  In 1797, from across San Juan Bay at Santurce, the British held Old Town under siege.  That same year they mysteriously sailed away.  Later, the commander claimed he feared that the enemy was well prepared behind those walls; he apparently saw many lights and believed them to be reinforcements.  Some people believe that those lights were torches carried by women in a rogativa, or religious procession, as they followed their bishop. ( Bus: Old City Trolley.) 

The city walls around San Juan were built in 1630 to protect the town against both European invaders and Caribbean pirates.  The city walls that remain today were once part of one of the most impregnable fortresses in the New World and even today are an engineering marvel.  Their thickness averages 20 feet (6m) at the base and 12 feet (3.7m) at the top, with an average height of 40 feet (12m).  At their top, notice the balconied buildings that served for centuries as hospitals and also residences of the island's various governors.  Between Fort San Cristóbal and El Morro, bastions were erected at frequent intervals.  The walls come into view as you approach from San Cristóbal on your way to El Morro. ( Bus: Old Town Trolley.) 

San Juan Cemetery, on Calle Norzagaray, officially opened in 1814 and has since been the final resting place for many prominent Puerto Rican families.  The circular chapel, dedicated to Saint Magdalene of Pazzis, was built in the 1860s.  Aficionados of old graveyards can wander among marble monuments, mausoleums, and statues, marvelous examples of Victorian funereal statuary.  Because there are no trees, or any other form of shade here, it would be best not to go exploring in the noonday sun.  In any case, be careful—the cemetery is often a venue for illegal drug deals and can be dangerous. ( Bus: Old City Trolley.) 

Alcaldía (City Hall) GOVERNMENT BUILDING The City Hall, with its double arcade flanked by two towers resembling Madrid's City Hall, was constructed in stages from 1604 to 1789.  Still in use, this building today contains a tourist-information center downstairs plus a small art gallery on the first floor. 

Calle San Francisco.    787/724-7171.  Free admission.  Mon–Fri 8am–5pm.  Closed holidays.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

Casa Blanca HISTORIC HOME Ponce de León never lived here, although construction of the house—built in 1521, 2 years after his death—is sometimes attributed to him.  The work was ordered by his son-in-law, Juan García Troche.  The parcel of land was given to Ponce de León as a reward for services rendered to the Crown.  Descendants of the explorer lived in the house for about 2 1/2 centuries, until the Spanish government took it over in 1779 for use as a residence for military commanders.  The U.S. government also used it as a home for army commanders.  On the first floor, the Juan Ponce de León Museum is furnished with antiques, paintings, and artifacts from the 16th through the 18th centuries.  In back is a garden with spraying fountains, offering an intimate and verdant respite. 

Calle San Sebastián 1.    787/725-1454.  Admission $3.  Wed–Sun 8am–4:30pm.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

El Arsenal ARCHITECTURE The Spaniards used a shallow craft to patrol the lagoons and mangroves in and around San Juan.  Needing a base for these vessels, they constructed El Arsenal in the 19th century.  It was at this base that they staged their last stand, flying the Spanish colors until the final Spaniard was removed in 1898, at the end of the Spanish-American War.  Changing art exhibitions are held in the building's three galleries. 

La Puntilla.    787/723-3068.  Free admission.  Wed–Sun 8:30am–4:30pm.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

La Casa del Libro MUSEUM This restored 19th-century house shelters a library and museum devoted to the arts of printing and bookmaking, with examples of fine printing, which date back 5 centuries, and some illuminated medieval manuscripts. 

Calle del Cristo 255.    787/723-0354.  Free admission.  Tues–Sat 11am–4:30pm.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

La Fortaleza MUSEUM The office and residence of the governor of Puerto Rico is the oldest executive mansion in continuous use in the Western Hemisphere, and it has served as the island's seat of government for more than 3 centuries.  Its history goes back even further than that to 1533, when construction began on a fortress to protect San Juan's Spanish settlers during raids by Carib tribesmen and pirates.  The original medieval towers remain, but as the edifice was subsequently enlarged into a palace, other modes of architecture and ornamentation were also incorporated, including baroque, Gothic, neoclassical, and Arabian.  La Fortaleza has been designated a national historic site by the U.S. government.  Proper attire is required (informal okay). 

Calle Fortaleza, overlooking San Juan Harbor.    787/721-7000, ext.  2211.  Free admission.  30-min.  tours of the gardens and building (conducted in English and Spanish) given every half-hour.  Mon–Fri 9am–3:30pm.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

Museo Nuestras Raíces Africanas MUSEUM Set within the Casa del Contrefueras, this museum documents the African contribution to the sociology of Puerto Rico.  You'll find a series of tastefully arranged art objects, including musical instruments, intricately carved African masks, drums, graphics, and maps that show the migratory patterns, usually through the slave trade, from Africa into Puerto Rico.  There are graphic depictions of the horrendous disruptions to families and individuals caused by the slave trade during the plantation era. 

Plaza San José, Calle San Sebastián.    787/724-4294.  Admission $3 adults; $1 seniors, children, and students; free for ages 12 and under.  Wed–Sun 8am–4:30pm.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

Teatro Tapía THEATER Standing across from the Plaza de Colón, this is one of the oldest theaters in the Western Hemisphere, built about 1832.  In 1976, a restoration returned the theater to its original appearance.  Much of Puerto Rican theater history is connected with the Tapía, named after the island's first prominent playwright, Alejandro Tapía y Rivera (1826–82).  Various productions—some musical—are staged here throughout the year, representing a repertoire of drama, dance, and cultural events. 

Av.  Ponce de León.    787/721-0180.  Prices vary.  Access limited to ticket holders at performances (see "San Juan After Dark," later in this chapter).  Bus: A5, B21, any other to Old San Juan Station. 

Taking Day breaks

You'll probably want to plan on a good lunch during a full day of sightseeing and shopping in Old San Juan (see chapter 5), but the Old City has other ways to take a break than from a trip to the restaurants and cafes listed in the previous chapter, whether for a refreshing drink or snack, a quick boxing lesson, or a complete facial. 

Anam Spa Cocktail Lounge Calle Cristo 259 A-1, Corner Calle Tetuan, Old San Juan.    787/962-4579.  Doll yourself up while kicking back at this unique spot with a great ambience inside a restored Spanish colonial overlooking San Juan Bay.  Have a drink and spoil yourself to a manicure, pedicure, or other beauty treatment ($45–$25), or the all-over body massage which costs $1 per minute.  First drink is free.  This spot is as fun as it is unique.  The staff really wants you to enjoy yourself.  Open daily 11am to 7pm. 

Marilyn's Place Calle San Francisco 100, Old San Juan.    787/724-0444.  This sidewalk cafe behind the State Department on Plaza de Armas is the perfect spot for a drink and snack to take a break from shopping and sightseeing.  Refreshing tropical drinks and tasty tapas, plus the interior is a shrine of sorts to the incomparable beauty of Marilyn Monroe.  Open Monday to Thursday 11am to 9pm and Friday to Sunday 11am to 11pm. 

Tanamá Juice Bar & Fitness Studio Calle Recinto Sur 305, Old San Juan.    787/510-5268.  Great tropical juices, smoothies, and other drinks, daily vegetarian lunch from noon to 4pm, and a full range of fitness classes, including zumba, pilates, boxing, dance, and yoga for kids.  Also meditation and massage services.  A great spot to take a break from your vacation for a little enlightenment.  Open Monday to Saturday 7am to 9pm. 

Historic Squares

In Old San Juan, Plaza del Quinto Centenario (Quincentennial Plaza) overlooks the Atlantic from atop the highest point in the city.  A striking and symbolic feature of the plaza, which was constructed as part of the 1992–93 celebration of the 500th anniversary of the discovery of the New World, is a sculpture that rises 40 feet (12m) from the plaza's top level.  The monumental sculpture in black granite and ceramics symbolizes the earthen and clay roots of American history and is the work of Jaime Suarez, one of Puerto Rico's foremost artists.  From its southern end, two needle-shaped columns point skyward to the North Star, the guiding light of explorers.  Placed around the plaza are fountains, other columns, and sculpted steps that represent various historic periods in Puerto Rico's 500-year heritage. 

Sweeping views extend from the plaza to El Morro Fortress at the headland of San Juan Bay and to the Dominican Convent and San José Church, a rare New World example of Gothic architecture.  Asilo de Beneficencia, a former indigents' hospital dating from 1832, occupies a corner of El Morro's entrance and is now the home of the Institute of Puerto Rican Culture.  Adjacent to the plaza is the Cuartel de Ballajá, built in the mid–19th century as the Spanish army headquarters and still the largest edifice in the Americas constructed by Spanish engineers; it houses the Museum of the Americas. 

Centrally located, Quincentennial Plaza is one of modern Puerto Rico's respectful gestures to its colorful and lively history.  It is a perfect introduction for visitors seeking to discover the many rich links with the past in Old San Juan. 

Once named St. James Square, or Plaza Santiago, Plaza de Colón at the main entrance to Old San Juan is at times bustling and busy, but also has a shady, tranquil section.  Right off Calle Fortaleza, the square was renamed Plaza de Colón to honor the 400th anniversary of Christopher Columbus' so-called discovery of Puerto Rico, which occurred during his second voyage.  Of course, it is more politically correct today to say that Columbus explored or came upon an already inhabited island.  He certainly didn't discover it.  But when a statue here, perhaps the most famous on the island, was erected atop a high pedestal, it was clearly to honor Columbus, not to decry his legacy.  There are some benches beside a newspaper stand in a shady part of the plaza that make a great place to sit.  You can grab something cool to drink from a corner store. 

Plaza de Las Armas is located at the heart of Old San Juan.  The main square is home to San Juan City Hall, built in 1789 as a replica of the Madrid City Hall, and the Puerto Rico State Department, in a beautiful colonial building from the 18th century.  The plaza also has a fountain (which, unfortunately, is usually not working), with four statues representing the four seasons, and some gazebos and a cafe.  The Cuatro Estaciones, or Four Seasons, cafe is a nice spot for a strong cup of coffee or a cold drink.  In a recent renovation, large trees were planted in the plaza, which provides blissful shade in several spots. 

The Paseo de la Princesa is a wide bayside promenade with outstanding views.  The walkway runs along the bay beneath the imposing Spanish colonial wall that surrounds the Old City.  It takes its name from a prominent building along it, La Princesa, a former prison in the 1800s that has been blissfully restored and now houses the Puerto Rico Tourism Company Headquarters.  The sexy fountain at its center, "Raíces" or "Races," shoots powerful streams of water over the bronze naked Adonises and Amazon warrior goddesses riding huge horses and fish, so you'll get wet if you get too close.  Spanish artist Luis Sanguino undertook the work as part of the 500th anniversary of San Juan's founding.  The statue is meant to show the Taíno, African, and Spanish roots of Puerto Rico and its people.  Farther along, the promenade bends around the bay and passes a shaded area before heading down to San Juan Gate.  The new El Morro trail, which goes around the base of the fortress, is actually an extension of this promenade.  There are food and drink vendors and often artisans selling their crafts, especially at the start of the route near the cruise-ship docks.  Enter near the cruise-ship docks at the corner of Recinto Sur and Calle La Puntilla or via the San Juan Gate (Calle San Francisco and Calle Recinto Oeste). 

Parks & Gardens

Bahía Urbana PARK/GARDEN This long-term development project aims to remake the coastline of San Juan Bay between Old San Juan and the Convention Center in Miramar from a seedy waterfront into a vibrant tourism and entertainment mecca, with world class hotels, high-end retail and residential spaces, and an open shoreline with waterfront restaurants, promenades, and yacht moorings.  The first step towards this vision will be a renovation of the decaying port zone surrounding piers 7 and 8 in Old San Juan into a bayside park, surrounded by water and green areas and connected to Old San Juan via a pedestrian bridge.  Expected amenities include an observation balloon, a trapeze school, and the homeport for the HMS Bounty tall ship.  The park's slated opening in late 2012 will be followed by a splash park and play and sports area adjacent to the Club Naútico marina. 

Jardín Botánico PARK/GARDEN Administered by the University of Puerto Rico, Jardín Botánico is a lush tropical garden with some 200 species of vegetation.  You can pack a picnic lunch and bring it here if you choose.  The orchid garden is exceptional, and the palm garden is said to contain some 125 species.  Footpaths blaze a trail through heavy forests opening onto a lotus lagoon. 

Barrio Venezuela (at the intersection of rtes.  1 and 847), Río Piedras.    787/765-1845.  Free admission.  Daily 6am–6pm.  Bus: 19. 

Luis Muñoz Marín Park ★   PARK/GARDEN This 140-acre (57-hectare) park is the best-known, most frequently visited children's playground in Puerto Rico—although it has equal appeal to adults.  Conceived as a verdant oasis in an otherwise crowded urban neighborhood, it's a fenced-in repository of swings, jungle gyms, and slides set amid several small lakes and rolling green fields.  Here you'll also find an incomparable view of San Juan.  A small-scale cable car carries passengers aloft at 10-minute intervals for panoramic views of the surrounding landscape ($2 per person). 

Av.  Piñero, at Hato Rey.    787/763-0787.  Free admission for pedestrians; parking $3 Wed–Sun 8am–6pm.  Bus: B-17. 

Luis Muñoz Rivera Park PARK/GARDEN This 27-acre (11-hectare) park, frequently confused with Luis Muñoz Marín Park (see above), is a green rectangle in the middle of Puerta de Tierra.  You'll drive by the seaward-facing park on your way to San Juan.  It was built 50 years ago to honor Luis Muñoz Rivera, the Puerto Rican statesman, journalist, and poet.  It's filled with picnic areas, wide walks, shady trees, landscaped grounds, and recreational areas.  There's a children's playground that's filled with fun on weekends.  Its centerpiece, El Pabellon de la Paz, is sometimes used for cultural events and expositions of handicrafts.  A new pedestrian and bicycle path connects the park with the oceanfront Tercer Milenio, or Third Millennium Park, across Avenida Muñoz Rivera.  The Commonwealth Supreme Court is located at the eastern side of the park. 

Btw.  aves.  Muñoz Rivera and Ponce de León.    787/721-6133.  Free admission; parking $3.20.  Daily 24 hrs.  Bus: A5. 

Parque Central Municipio de San Juan SPORTS COMPLEX This mangrove-bordered park was inaugurated in 1979 for the Pan-American Games.  It covers 35 acres (14 hectares) and lies southeast of Miramar.  Joggers appreciate its labyrinth of trails, and a long boardwalk runs along mangrove canals.  Recently renovated, it boasts 20 tennis courts, four racquetball courts, a full track-and-field area with stadium bleachers, a cafe, and children's play area (just look for the huge jacks sculpture).  A golf course is being developed on an adjacent former landfill and a brand-new Olympic standard diving and swimming arena was completed several years ago.  Fat, huge iguanas slither from the mangrove-choked channels and into the park's pathways. 

Calle Cerra.    787/722-1646.  Free admission for pedestrians; parking $2.  Mon–Thurs 6am–10pm; Fri 6am–9pm; Sat–Sun 6am–7pm.  Bus: A1. 

  The Best Places to See Puerto Rican art

With its dozen or so museums and even more art galleries, Old San Juan is the greatest repository of Puerto Rican arts and crafts, although the city's single most important museum is probably the Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico in downtown Santurce.  In the Old City, galleries sell everything from pre-Columbian artifacts to paintings by such well-known artists as Angel Botello, who died in 1986, and Rafael Tufiño, who died in 2008.  There's also contemporary traditional crafts, such as santos, the hand-carved wooden saints the island is known for.  Galleries also show a large cast of talented established and up-and-coming contemporary artists. 

Art openings at galleries are usually big affairs, with wine and cheese receptions, and occasionally live music or theatrical performances.  Bars and restaurants get into the act and hold art shows or performances. 

A cluster of galleries is spread along Calle Cristo and Calle San José, which is 1 block east.  For specific galleries, see "Art," later in this chapter.  The Galería Nacional, or National Gallery, located inside Old San Juan's Antiguo Convento de los Dominicos, a restored former convent, has exhibits from the Institute of Puerto Rican Culture's vast holdings.  It displays many of the most important works by Puerto Rican painters, from José Campeche and Francisco Oller to Rafael Tufiño and the generation of painters from the 1950s (  787/977-2700).  Another good place to see Puerto Rican art is the Museum of History, Anthropology & Art (  787/763-3939).  Because of space limitations, the museum's galleries can exhibit only a fifth of their vast collection at one time, but the work is always top-notch.  The collection ranges from pre-Columbian artifacts to works by today's major painters. 

Santurce, however, is equally important as the Old City, now that it has some of the island's top museums.  The grandest repository of art in San Juan is at the Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico, which is a virtual textbook on all the big names in the art world who rose from Puerto Rico, often to international acclaim.  The gorgeously restored building is also part of the appeal, as are the adjoining sculpture and botanical garden.  The Museo de Arte Contemporáneo (  787/977-4030; avs.  Ponce de León and Robert H. Todd) is also an exceptional museum in a restored brick schoolhouse, showing contemporary art from Puerto Rico, but also from throughout Latin America and the Caribbean. 

Outside San Juan, the greatest art on the island can usually be seen at the Museo de Arte de Ponce.  In addition to such European masters as Reubens, Van Dyck, and Murillo, the museum features works by Latin American artists, including Diego Rivera.  Puerto Rican artists who are represented include José Campeche and Francisco Oller.  The museum reopened in 2010 following a $30-million renovation, which doubled exhibition space and incorporated climate-control systems and other design features aimed at protecting its vast collection, representing the principal schools of American and European art of the past 5 centuries, as well as a growing number of contemporary artists from Puerto Rico and the Caribbean region. 

Marking its rebirth is "Brushstrokes in Flight," a 25-foot-high, majestic and colorful sculpture by Roy Lichtenstein at its entrance.  The Lichtenstein Foundation, with the support of the artist's widow, Dorothy Lichtenstein, donated the monumental piece to the Ponce Art Museum. 

Sightseeing Tours

If you want to see more of the island but you don't want to rent a car or manage the inconveniences of public transportation, perhaps an organized tour is for you. 

Rico Suntours, Calle Pesante 15, San Juan (  787/722-2080), and Travel Services, Inc., Calle Loiza 1199 (  787/982-1200), are two of the largest tour operators and destination management companies in Puerto Rico, managing a range of tours for groups and individuals, and able to custom-make tours as well.  They both have several volunteer-tourism offerings, whether you want to serve homeless dogs or stray people living on the streets, or pitch in with a community project in the adjacent coastal community of Loiza.  Castillo Sightseeing Tours & Travel Services, 2413 Calle Laurel, Punta La Marias, Santurce (  787/791-6195), maintains counters at the Ritz-Carlton San Juan, the Verdanza Hotel, and ESJ Towers.  With a fleet of air-conditioned buses, the company's tours include pickups and drop-offs at hotels as an added convenience. 

Sunshine Tours (  787/647-4545) and Amador Island Tours (  787/397-1881) have similar offerings.  One of the most popular half-day tours departs most days of the week between 8:30 and 9am, lasts 4 to 5 hours, and costs about $59 per person, $77 if you take one of the more extensive hiking tours.  Leaving from San Juan, it tours along the northeastern part of the island to El Yunque.  Another favorite is a city tour of San Juan that departs daily around 1pm.  The 4-hour trip costs around $59 per person and includes a stop at the Bacardi Rum Factory.  Other trips include the Arecibo Observatory and the Camuy Caves, as well as snorkeling and offshore beach excursions on plush catamarans. 

Few cities of the Caribbean lend themselves so gracefully to walking tours.  You can embark on these on your own, stopping and shopping en route.  The best, of course, is a walking tour of Old San Juan.  There are several suggested routes from which to choose, or you could go and get lost and cover the entire mile-square historic sector. ( See the "Old San Juan Attractions" map.)  There are also guided tours available.  One of the most informative is by Legends of Puerto Rico (www.legendsofpr.com;   787/605-9060), which hosts personalized tours, specializing in entertaining cultural and nature adventure tours.  Sunshine Tours (www.puerto-rico-sunshinetours.com;   787/698-9667) also has experienced, knowledgeable guides.  San Juan Oculto, or Hidden San Juan (www.fusamp.org;   787/748-7248; $20 suggested donation), is a monthly walking tour through Old San Juan to visit important, and largely unknown, architectural and historic buildings and other works.  The project is undertaken in coordination with the University of Puerto Rico's School of Architecture. 

For a fantastic overview of authentic Puerto Rican cuisine, we highly recommend the walking/noshing tour, Flavors of San Juan (www.flavorsofsanjuan.com;   787/964-2447; dinner $80, lunch $70; no children under 18; daily 2-hour tours at 5pm).  Itineraries vary, but samples may include tostones, mofongo, tapas at a Spanish restaurant (where the owner serenaded us a cappella), rum or beer samples, and possibly a mojito and French fries at tour guide Leslie Padró's favorite French bistro.  Padró is a former CNN staffer from Atlanta, and she kept this tour informative and relaxed, as if sharing her local finds with friends.  Book in advance. 

Especially for Kids

Puerto Rico is one of the family-friendliest islands in the Caribbean, and many hotels offer family discounts.  Programs for children are also offered at a number of hotels, including day- and night-camp activities and babysitting services.  Trained counselors at these camps supervise children as young as 3 in activities ranging from nature hikes to tennis lessons, coconut carving, and sand-sculpture contests. 

Teenagers can learn to hip-hop dance Latino-style with special salsa and merengue lessons, learn conversational Spanish, indulge in watersports, take jeep excursions, or scuba-dive in some of the best diving locations in the world.  All the major hotels have full children's programs, so it might depend on what you are looking for.  Top city hotels such as InterContinental San Juan Hotel & Casino, the Ritz-Carlton San Juan, the San Juan Marriott & Stellaris Casino, and the Caribe Hilton have great pool facilities for kids, day-camp activities, watersports, and other sports equipment, play areas for little kids, and video arcades or other activities for teens. 

Children love El Morro Fortress (see "Forts," earlier in this chapter) because it looks just like the castles they have seen on TV and at the movies.  On a rocky promontory, El Morro is filled with dungeons and dank places and also has lofty lookout points for viewing San Juan Harbor.  The grounds make for great kite flying.  The city's historic plazas offer their own possibilities, such as running through the gushing fountains of Quincentennial Plaza or feeding the pigeons at Plaza de Armas. 

Luis Muñoz Marín Park (see "Parks & Gardens," above) has the most popular children's playground in Puerto Rico.  It's filled with landscaped grounds and recreational areas—lots of room for fun in the sun.  And kids love the short cable-car ride. 

Kids—from teens to toddlers—love the Caribbean's largest mall, Plaza Las Americas (www.plazalasamericas.com;   787/767-5202), especially on a rainy day, which has all the familiarity of the mall back home, with its movie theaters and food courts, but is probably a whole lot more glamorous. 

Museo del Niño (Children's Museum)   In the late 1990s, the city of San Juan turned over one of the most desirable buildings in the colonial zone—a 300-year-old villa directly across from the city's cathedral—to a group of sociologists and student volunteers.  Jointly, they created the only children's museum in Puerto Rico.  Through interactive exhibits, children learn simple lessons, such as the benefits of brushing teeth or recycling aluminum cans, or the value of caring properly for pets.  Staff members include lots of student volunteers who play either one-on-one or with small groups of children.  Nothing here is terribly cerebral, and nothing will necessarily compel you to return.  But it does provide a play experience that some children will remember for several weeks. 

Calle del Cristo 150.    787/722-3791.  Admission $5 adults, $7 children 15 and younger.  Tues–Thurs 9am–3:30pm; Fri 9am–5pm; Sat–Sun 12:30–5pm.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

The Cathedral of rum

Called "the Cathedral of Rum," the Bacardi Distillery at Rte.  888, Km 2.6, at Cataño (  787/788-1500), is the largest of its kind in the world.  Reached by taking a 20-minute ferry ride across San Juan Bay ($1 each way), the distillery produces 100,000 gallons of rum daily.  At the site, you can go to the Casa Bacardi Visitor Center, Carretera 165, Cataño (  787/788-8400), for free 90-minute tours Monday to Saturday from 9am to 4:30pm, Sunday 10am to 3:30pm.  You are taken on a visit of seven historical displays, including the Bat Theatre, and the Golden Age of the Cocktail Art Deco bar. 

Upon entering the first floor, you'll get a glimpse of what rum production was like a century ago, including oak barrels used in the aging process and an old sugar-cane wagon.  On the fifth floor, you'll enter the Hall of Rum, with a collection of beverages made by the corporation over a period of years.  You'll then witness "the birth of rum"—the fermentation processes of molasses (it takes 100 gal.  of molasses to produce one barrel of rum). 

You'll visit the Bacardi Family Museum, and you can watch a short video about the bottling process.  At the end of the tour you can sample the product.  Try Morir Soñando ("To Die While Dreaming"), which mixes orange and pineapple juices, coconut milk, and Bacardi Orange. 

Diving, Fishing, Tennis & Other Outdoor Pursuits

Active vacationers have a wide choice of things to do in San Juan, from sunning on the beach to kite sailing to surfing.  There are numerous land sports to do under the sun, such as tennis and bicycle touring.  Most beachside hotels, of course, offer on-site watersports activities, which are also available for nonguests (see chapter 4). 

The Beaches

Some San Juan beaches can get crowded, especially during summer and holiday weekends, but for most of the week, they are deliciously roomy.  It's rare to find yourself alone on a beach in San Juan, but if you do, be careful.  Petty crime is a reality you need to keep in mind.  The city beaches are actually very safe, friendly, and well-protected places.  They are also surprisingly pretty; Ocean Park and Pine Grove are among the most charming beaches in all of Puerto Rico, for example. 

All beaches on Puerto Rico, even those fronting the top hotels, are open to the public.  Public bathing beaches, with lifeguards and facilities, are called balnearios and charge for parking and for use of lockers and showers.  Beach hours in general are 9am to 5pm in winter, to 6pm off-season.  Most balnearios are operated by the Puerto Rico National Parks Company, with others operated by island municipalities.  For all balnearios, entrance is free but the parking carries a fee.  So even when the beaches are closed, you can still enjoy them.  There just won't be facilities open, lifeguards, or, in some cases, available parking. 

There are two public beaches in the San Juan area with lifeguards, changing rooms, and showers.  El Escambrón public beach (Av.  Muñoz Rivera, Pda.  8—that is, parada, or stop 8—Puerta de Tierra;   787/721-6133; Wed–Sun and holidays 8:30am–5pm; parking $5) is right next to the Caribe Hilton and surrounded by two sprawling parks.  There's a great swimming beach protected by reefs and rock formations jutting out of the water.  The famed El 8 surf spot is just to the west, however.  There's good snorkeling around the rocks with lots of fish.  There's a snack bar and a full-scale restaurant located here.  The other public beach is Isla Verde public beach (Av.  Los Gobernadores, Carolina;   787/791-8084; Tues–Sun 8:30am–5pm; parking $4), a huge expanse of white sand and tranquil waters between Isla Verde and Piñones.  There are lifeguards; changing rooms, bathrooms, and showers; picnic areas and barbecue grills; and an on-site restaurant. 

Famous with beach buffs since the 1920s, Condado Beach ★★ put San Juan on the map as a tourist resort.  Backed up against high-rise hotels, it seems more like Miami Beach than any other beach in the Caribbean.  All sorts of watersports can be booked at the activities desks in the hotels.  A small beach near the Condado Plaza hotel is the only one with lifeguards, who are on duty from 8:30am to 5pm.  There are also outdoor showers.  The beaches in the rest of the Condado are much nicer, but because there are no lifeguards and the surf can get rough, particularly by the San Juan Marriott, swimmers should exercise caution.  There are powerful riptides here that have been responsible for past drownings.  There are no public toilets here.  People-watching is a favorite sport along these golden strands, which stretch from the Ventana del Mar Park to beyond the Marriott.  The best stretch of beach in the Condado runs from the Ashford Presbyterian Hospital to Ocean Park.  The area behind the Atlantic Beach Hotel is popular with the gay crowd; the beach farther along, with Marriott guests and surfers, is also pretty but has extremely rough waters at times. 

One of the most attractive beaches in the Greater San Juan area is Ocean Park Beach ★★, a mile (1.6km) of fine, gold sand in a neighborhood east of Condado.  This beach attracts young people, travelers looking for a guesthouse rather than the large hotel experience, and those looking for a big gay crowd.  The beach runs from Parquedel Indio in Condado all the way to the Barbosa Park in the area known as El Ultimo Trolley, and offers paddle tennis, kite-boarding, and beach volleyball.  You can grab lunch and refreshments from several area guesthouses, and vendors walk up and down the beach, selling cold beer, water, and soft drinks, and even snacks such as fried seafood turnovers.  Farther east, there's no real beach at Punta Las Marías, but it's one of the favorite launch points for windsurfers. 

Isla Verde Beach ★★ is the longest and widest in San Juan.  It is ideal for swimming, and it, too, is lined with high-rise resorts a la Miami Beach.  Many luxury condos are on this beachfront.  Isla Verde is good for watersports, including parasailing and snorkeling, because of its calm, clear waters; many kiosks will rent you equipment, especially by the El San Juan.  There are also cafes and restaurants at hotels and more reasonably priced individual restaurants nearby. 

Isla Verde Beach extends from the end of Ocean Park to the beginning of a section called Boca Cangrejos.  The most popular beach is probably behind the Hotel El San Juan and the InterContinental San Juan hotels.  But Pine Grove beach, behind the Ritz-Carlton, is a great swimming beach and very popular as well, particularly with surfers and sailors. 

Sports & Other Outdoor Pursuits

Adventure Two adventure areas in the San Juan suburbs are worth a visit.  Go flying through the trees on a zip-line at La Marquesa Original Canopy Tour Park, La Marquesa Forest Reserve, Guaynabo (  787/789-1598 or 444-0110).  Costs vary depending on group size but run around $99 per person including transportation to your hotel.  The rate without transportation is $75.  You'll get a bird's view of a tropical forest as you soar along suspended cables, from 10 to 70 feet (3–21m) high, traversing across 14 different platforms during the thrilling 2-hour tour.  Speed demons, here's your shot at an adrenalin rush; but if you'd rather take it easy, you can control your speed with a grip.  Being 50 feet (15m) up and leaping through the air is a rush, even with the harness strapped to the cable and the redundant safety features.  Skateboarders can get their ya-yas out at Moisty Skate & Family Park, Av.  Zafiro (Rte.  34), Caguas, (  787/903-0504 or 903-6064), but there is so much more at this 40-acre (16-hectare) park in the suburb south of San Juan.  Take Luis A Ferré Expwy.  52 S., and get off at Exit 18 for Aguas Buenas and turn right at Rte.  196.  Founded by an island skateboard champion, the ramps and skate areas are challenging.  There are also water slides, a wave pool, adventure rope course, go-karts, gotcha paint-ball course, and an inflatable park for young children.  You pay for parking and then for each activity.  Equipment rental and skate-park entrance is $15, while the wave pool is $8 for adults and $5 for children.  Go-kart rides are $6 a shot. 

Bike Rentals The best places to bicycle are in city parks such as Luis Muñoz Marín (Hato Rey) and Luis Muñoz Rivera (Puerta de Tierra).  You can make it from Condado to Old San Juan driving mostly through the latter park.  There are also bicycle trails; I recommend the coastal boardwalk running along Piñones, which is beautiful and safe, especially on the weekends, if a little beat up.  There are bike rentals available in the area during weekends, although most San Juan streets are too crowded for bicycle riding.  Rent the Bicycle, Calle Del Muelle, Capitolio Plaza 205, San Juan (  787/602-9696), is at the entrance of the Old San Juan bayside waterfront.  It rents bikes for $27 per day ($19 for a half-day) and also conducts several tours throughout San Juan (the Piñones boardwalk tour is probably the best bet).  Rentals are available at Hot Dog Cycling, Av.  Isla Verde 5916, La Plazoleta Shopping Center (  787/721-0776), open Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm.  Charges for rentals are $15 per half-day, $25 for a full day. 

Paradise Rentals (in Old San Juan at Pier 2 and in Condado at Condado Village, 1214 Ashford Avenue;   787/413-2222) rents bicycles and electric bicycles, or E-bikes. 

Cruises For the best cruises of San Juan Bay, go to Caribe Aquatic Adventures (see "Scuba Diving," below).  Bay cruises start at $25 per person. 

Deep-sea Fishing ★ Deep-sea fishing is top-notch here.  Allison tuna, white and blue marlin, sailfish, wahoo, dolphinfish (mahimahi), mackerel, and tarpon are some of the fish that can be caught in Puerto Rican waters, where 30 world records have been broken.  Charter arrangements can be made through most major hotels and resorts.  The big game-fishing grounds are very close offshore from San Juan, making the capital an excellent place to hire a charter.  A half-day of deep-sea fishing (4 hours) starts at around $650, while full-day charters begin at around $1,050.  Most charters hold six passengers in addition to the crew. 

There are three marinas in the San Juan metropolitan area, with fishing charters and boat rentals available at all three.  The Cangrejos Yacht Club (  787/791-1015) is right near the airport on Rte.  187, the road from Isla Verde to Piñones, while the two other marinas are next to each other near the Condado bridge and the Convention Center in Miramar: San Juan Bay Marina (  787/721-8062) and Club Nautico de San Juan (  787/722-0177). 

Benitez Fishing Charters can be contacted directly at P.O. Box 9066541, Puerto de Tierra, San Juan, PR 00906 (  787/723-2292 [until 9pm]).  The captain offers a 45-foot air-conditioned deluxe Hatteras called the Sea Born.  Capt.  Mike Benítez is the most experienced operator in San Juan sailing out of Club Nautico.  His crew is knowledgeable and informative, and the Sea Born is plush and comfortable.  Fishing tours for parties of up to six cost $642 for a half-day excursion, $1,017 for a full day, with bottled water and all equipment included. ( See "Scuba Diving," below, for another deep-sea fishing option.)  Another veteran outfit is Castillo Fishing Charters (  787/726-5752), that has been running charters out of the San Juan Bay Marina since 1975.  Capt.  Joe Castillo runs the company with his son José Iván and daughter Vanessa, and they all know their stuff.  The Legend, a 48-foot Hatteras, is also an excellent vessel built for fishing and comfort.  Rates are $700 for a half-day (8am–noon or 1–5pm) and $1,100 full day (8am–4pm). 

Golf The city of San Juan has opened the San Juan Golf Academy and Driving Range (Marginal Av.  Kennedy, entrance to San Juan Obras Publicas department;   787/771-8962 or 480-4580; $5 for 50 balls, $10 for 100 balls, clubs are also available; Tues–Sat 7am–9pm, Sun and holidays 11am–6pm).  Besides the driving range, there are putting greens and chipping ranges. 

In the San Juan suburb of Bayamón is the 9-hole Río Bayamón Golf Course (  787/740-1419), a municipal course.  Greens fees are $25 and include a cart, and rentals range from $15 for a simple set to $35 for a professional set. 

The Berwind Country Club (  787/876-5380) in Loiza is the nearest full-size course to the city.  Built on a former coconut plantation, it's a beautiful place, with ocean views, towering palms, and frenzied tropical foliage.  Experts say the course is quite challenging, with plenty of water hazards and three of the toughest holes to finish on the island.  Greens fees are $25 Monday through Wednesday, $35 Thursday through Sunday and holidays; regular greens fees start at $50, and special rates, during twilight and certain weekday hours, can drop it to $35.  On Saturdays until noon, the course is reserved for members. 

The island's best golf courses are within a short drive of San Juan, including those clustered around Dorado to the west and Río Grande to the east (see chapter 6). 

Horse Racing Great thoroughbreds and outstanding jockeys compete year-round at Camarero Racetrack, Calle 65 de Infantería, Rte.  3, Km 15.3, at Canovanas (  787/641-6060), Puerto Rico's only racetrack, a 20-minute drive east of the center of San Juan.  Races begin at 2:45pm Monday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and holidays.  There are from seven to nine races daily, and bets include Win, Place, the "Exacta," Daily Double, Trifecta, Superfecta, Pick Six, and Pick Three.  The clubhouse has a fine-dining restaurant, the Terrace Room, that serves good steaks, seafood, and local cooking.  The grandstand has free admission. 

Running The cool, quiet, morning hours before 8am are a good time to jog through the streets of Old San Juan.  Head for the wide thoroughfares adjacent to El Morro and then San Cristóbal, whose walls jut upward from the flat ground.  The seafront Paseo de la Princesa, at the base of the governor's mansion La Fortaleza, is another fine site.  San Juan Central Park (Calle Cerra; exit from Av.  Muñoz Rivera or Rte.  2;   787/722-1646) has an excellent professional track in an outdoor track-and-field stadium with bleachers.  There is a similar setup at Parque Barbosa right off the beach in Ocean Park.  Condado's Avenida Ashford and the hard-packed sands of Isla Verde are busy sites for morning runners as well.  The renovated Dos Hermanos bridge connecting Condado to Puerta de Tierra has plenty of room for joggers and cyclists. 

Scuba Diving In San Juan, the best outfitter is Caribe Aquatic Adventures, Calle 19 1062, Villa Nevarez (www.diveguide.com/p2046.htm;   787/281-8858).  Its dive shop is open daily from 9am to 9pm.  This outfitter will take you to the best local dive sites in the Greater San Juan area.  A local dive in Puerta de Tierra costs $60.  Other dives cost $125 per person, and a resort course for first-time divers costs $145, half-day lesson $95.  Escorted dive jaunts to the eastern shore are also offered.  Snorkeling lessons or tours lasting 1 hour and including basic equipment go for $55. 

Another good outfitter is Ocean Sports.  Its main office is Av.  Isla Verde 77 (  787/268-2329), but it also has other offices.  It offers diving courses and scuba diving and snorkeling trips in San Juan, off the east coast, even out to Mona Island.  A two-tank dive off the east coast will run from $95 to $150.  There are kayak and snorkeling trips around San Juan. 

Snorkeling Snorkeling is better in the outlying portions of the island than in overcrowded San Juan.  But if you don't have time to explore greater Puerto Rico, you'll find that most of the popular beaches, such as Luquillo and Isla Verde, have pretty good visibility and kiosks that rent equipment.  Snorkeling equipment generally rents for $15.  If you're on your own in the San Juan area, one of the best places is the San Juan Bay marina near the Caribe Hilton. 

Watersports desks at the big San Juan hotels at Isla Verde and Condado can generally make arrangements for instruction and equipment rental, and can also lead you to the best places for snorkeling, depending on where you are in the sprawling metropolis.  If your hotel doesn't offer such services, you can contact Caribe Aquatic Adventures (see "Scuba Diving," above), which caters to snorkelers and scuba divers alike. 

Still, even if you are staying in San Juan and want to go snorkeling, you are better off taking a day trip to Fajardo, where you'll get a real Caribbean snorkeling experience, with tranquil, clear water, and stunning reefs teaming with tropical fish.  Several operators offer day trips (daily 10am–3:30pm) leaving from Fajardo marinas (most likely Villa Marina or Puerto del Rey), but transportation to and from your San Juan hotel can also be arranged.  Prices start at around $69 per person, or $99 including transportation to and from San Juan.  Even if you don't particularly want to snorkel, the trips are still worth it for a day of fun in the sun.  The trips usually take place on large luxury catamarans, holding about 20 passengers or more.  Most have a cash bar serving drinks and refreshments, a sound system, and other creature comforts.  Typically, after a nice sail, the cat will weigh anchor at different snorkeling spots and then in sheltered waters near one of the scores of small islands lying off Fajardo's coast, the perfect spot for a swim or sunbathing.  Most trips include lunch, which usually is served on a beach.  The boats know the best reefs and hot spots for bigger fish, and will plan the trip according to weather conditions and other variables.  A huge reef extending east to Culebra protects the ocean off Fajardo's coast, which makes for calm seas with great visibility. 

Inquire at your hotel desk about operators providing service there.  There are many reputable companies.  My friends and I have all been satisfied with Fajardo Tours Traveler (  787/863-2821), East Island Excursions (  787/860-3434), and Catamaran Spread Eagle (  787/887-8821).  Erin Go Bragh Charters (  787/860-4401) offers similar day trips aboard a 50-foot sailing ketch, which is an equally pleasurable experience. 

  Swimmers, Beware

You have to pick your spots carefully if you want to swim along many San Juan beaches, especially Condado Beach.  The waters at the beach beside the Condado Plaza Hotel are calmer than in other areas because of a coral breakwater.  The beach near the Marriott is not good for swimming because of rocks, a strong undertow, and occasional rip tides.  There are no lifeguards except at public beaches.  Ocean Park is better for swimming, but can still be hazardous when the tides kick up.  Isla Verde beach is generally much calmer, especially at its eastern end.  The surf off Piñones, farther east, may be the most treacherous of all. 

Spas & Fitness Centers The Ritz-Carlton San Juan Hotel, Spa & Casino ★, Av.  de los Gobernadores 6961, No.  187, Isla Verde (  787/253-1700), set a new standard of luxury in San Juan hotels.  That special treatment is no more evident that at its spa, with state-of-the-art massages, body wraps and scrubs, facials, manicures, pedicures, and a salon guaranteed to make you look like a movie star.  In an elegant marble-and-stone setting, there are 11 rooms for pampering, including hydrotherapy and treatments custom-tailored for individual needs.  The 12,000-square-foot (1,115 sq.  m) spa features a 7,200-square-foot (2,195 sq.  m) outdoor swimming pool, male and female steam baths, a sauna, and a whirlpool.  There's also a complete fitness center with free weights and weight machines, cardiovascular equipment and aerobics, and personal trainer services.  Treatment specialties include the latest in skin, touch, and soak therapies, and wellness salon services.  Caribbean fruits and flowers, and botanical treatments culled from El Yunque rainforest are employed in the treatments.  Two house specialties are the detoxifying coffee body scrub and coconut milk moisturizing session, or a rainforest stone massage with passion fruit oil.  Specialty sessions range in price from $130 to $275, depending on length and technique. 

The 12,000-square-foot (1,115m sq.)  Olas Spa at the Carib Hilton, Calle Los Rosales (  787/721-0303), offers everything from traditional massages to more exotic body and water therapies, using such products as honey, cucumber, sea salts, seaweed, or mud baths.  You can choose your delight among the massages, including one called "Rising Sun," a traditional Japanese form of massage called shiatsu that uses pressure applied with hands, elbows, and knees on specific body points.  Among body wraps is one known as Firm Away, a super-firming, brown and green algae body cocoon therapy for a soft, toned, and smooth skin.  Other services include manicures and pedicures, a full-service hair salon, and many day-spa packages.  There's also an adjacent gleaming and modern health club with machines, weights, all sorts of classes, and everything else you might need, with in-house personal trainers.  The spa is in a really beautiful setting.  There are lengthy and pricey specialty treatments, such as the 4-hour Agua ($350), which includes a sea detox and elixir, a facial, hydrotherapy, seaweed body wrap, aromatherapy, deep cleansing, and more. 

The InterContinental San Juan Resort & Casino, Av.  Isla Verde 5961 (  787/791-6100), also recently got into the spa game, with a nice facility adjacent to its beautiful pool area that has breathtaking ocean views.  The masseuses, trained locally and throughout the world, are among the best in San Juan, with the spare tropical setting as mellow as the house Swedish massage.  The Caribbean Wrap aims to improve skin condition over the long haul, while the After Sun Pampering Massage looks to improve its elasticity and smoothness.  There's also a 24-hour health club and gym with the usual top notch equipment and services, plus those beautiful ocean views. 

El San Juan Hotel & Casino, Av.  Isla Verde 6063 (  787/791-1000), offers a stunning panoramic view of San Juan and a relaxing environment offering fitness evaluations, supervised weight-loss programs, aerobics classes, a sauna, a steam room, and luxury massages.  A daily fee for individual services is assessed if you want special treatment or care. 

Another option is Zen Spa, Av.  Ashford 1054, Condado (  787/722-8433), which has a full range of massages, facial treatments, body wraps, and therapeutic services.  It's open 8am to 7pm weekdays, 9am to 6pm weekends.  Specialty massages, which start at $55 for 25 minutes, include a detoxifying massage and a combo Swedish and Shiatsu massage. 

International Fitness ★, Av.  Ashford 1131, Condado (  787/721-0717), is air-conditioned, well equipped, and popular with residents of the surrounding high-rent district.  Besides weight and cardio machines, there is TRX, zumba, pilates, spinning, body combat, and other fitness classes.  Entrance costs $15 for a gym visit, $18 to take a class.  A 3-day visit is $40, 5-day $65, or $80 for a week.  Hours are Monday to Thursday 5am to 10pm, Friday 5am to 9pm, and Saturday 9am to 7pm; closed Sunday. 

Liv Fitness Club, at Gallery Plaza, Calle Loiza, Condado (  787/998-4553), is 1 block away from the oceanfront.  This stylish, popular health club with a view charges $25 for walk-ins.  There are free weights, machines, rows of cardio equipments and studios hosting 50 classes weekly, included in the price of admission, like yoga, African dance exercises, kickboxing, and sheer spinning insanity. 

SURFING & PADDLEBOARDING Velauno, Calle Loíza 2430, Punta Las Marías in San Juan (www.velauno.com;   787/728-8716), has paddleboard rentals and gives tours and lessons.  Prices are $100 for the first person's first hour, and $50 for each additional hour, while additional persons pay $50 the first hour and $25 each additional hour. 

Former pro surfer William Sue-A-Quan and a few associates give lessons through his Walking on Water Surfing School (www.gosurfpr.com;   787/955-6059), working right on the beach at Pine Grove and also offering lessons through the Ritz-Carlton.  He's a great teacher, and takes on students as young as 5 and as old as 75.  Another pro, Carlos Cabrero, teams up with personal trainer, Victor Tort, to teach beginners and to train practitioners to become experts.  He operates his Puerto Rico Institute of Surf Kinesiology (prisksurf@gmail.com;   787/728-3377 or 222-4555) out of his Tres Palmas surf shop in Ocean Park, but usually surfs off "the point" in Condado behind Ashford Hospital.  It's the best shop in town if you are actually interested in surfing equipment or other equipment like boogie boards and skateboards.  There's no skimping on the fashion.  They operate an excellent summer surf camp, which kids can attend for weeklong stints. 

Tennis Most of the big resorts have their own tennis courts for their guests.  There are 20 public courts, lit at night, at San Juan Central Park, at Calle Cerra (Exit F on Rte.  2;   787/722-1646), open daily.  Fees are $4 per hour, 6am to 10pm.  There are also four racquetball courts here.  The Isla Verde Tennis Club (  787/727-6490) is open all week, weekdays from 8am to 10pm, Saturdays from 8am to 7pm, and Sundays from 8am to 6pm.  Courts cost from $15 to $20 hour, and semi-private lessons at $60 per hour. 

KITE BOARDING & Sailing Kite boarding has long supplanted windsurfing along the San Juan coastline from Isla Verde through Ocean Park.  Kite-boarding advice and lessons are available at Velauno, Calle Loíza 2430, Punta Las Marías in San Juan (www.velauno.com;   787/728-8716).  Their instructors will also rent equipment, with prices starting at about $75 daily.  A 2-hour beginner's lesson costs $150. 

  Downtown Caribbean

Sanjuaneros would never brag that their island city is the capital of the Caribbean, and in many ways it isn't, largely perhaps because residents are too busy looking northward to the U.S., rather than to opportunities with regional partners. 

In many ways, however, San Juan can stake claim as one of the Caribbean's most vibrant and beautiful urban centers, with beaches and weather to put South Florida to shame; a lively music, arts, and performance and cultural scene; and an entertainment infrastructure that includes a world-class coliseum, convention center, and smaller amphitheaters and stages.  Puerto Rican royalty (from Benicio del Toro to Marc Anthony and J-Lo to Ricky Martin) are regularly jetting in, but it's the local talent that will more likely wow visitors. 

The Puerto Rico José Miguel Agrelot Coliseum (500 Av .Arterial B, Hato Rey;   787/265-4736; box office Mon–Fri 10am–5pm), known locally as "the Coliseo," has hosted major performers like Shakira, Britney Spears, Paul McCartney, the Rolling Stones, Elton John, the Police, and Billy Joel, and it regularly gets top-name Latino acts.  The Puerto Rico Convention Center (100 Convention Blvd.,  San Juan;   800/214-0420) is attracting all sorts of national groups as well as other entertainment events.  CIRCO, an annual art fair, is getting serious attention, and the center is also the host of an annual fashion week with shows by local and international designers.  The Puerto Rico Tourism Company has held an annual New Year's Eve party here that is broadcast live on Spanish-language television and features some of the top names in Latino music.  Both venues have cafe-bars that have become hangouts for young urban professionals to let loose after work, especially on Thursday and Friday nights.  A redevelopment of the ferry terminal into an entertainment and restaurant complex will be completed this year adjacent to the Coliseum, which will increase the options and make connecting with the Convention Center District and Old San Juan easier than ever. 

Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico is a showcase of island art, but also hosts top-rate traveling exhibitions and has such amenities as a 5-acre (2-hectare) sculpture and botanical garden, and a 400-seat theater, named for Raúl Juliá, the late Puerto Rican actor. 

Old San Juan has its SoFo, a once abandoned sector of La Fortaleza Street that is now buzzing with activity, home to some of Old San Juan's best restaurants, bars, and clubs.  A play on the name of New York City's SoHo, SoFo purportedly refers to South Fortaleza Street.  The name has stuck, even though it's geographically inaccurate, as the area is actually East Fortaleza Street.  The Parrot Club is the original hot spot of the neighborhood, opening more than a decade ago with its brash and flavorful Nuevo Latino cuisine in a land of crusty Chinese restaurants and delis, run-down tourist shops, and dusty fabric stores.  Today, these run-down businesses have been renovated.  The area is a center for world cuisine, where you can find everything from French Trois Cent Onze to Indian Tantra to Asian Fusion Dragonfly. 

Naturally beautiful Ocean Park, dotted with a few low-key guesthouses and restaurants, attracts an eclectic set of trendsetters: students, surfers, gay people, and urban creatives from the East Coast who prefer its low-lying skyline and laid-back ambience over the big resorts and condos of Condado and Isla Verde. 

The Condado, however, has undergone its own revival, with the renovation of La Concha hotel, the opening of some of the city's best restaurants (such as Budatai and the relocated Pikayo), the establishment of an oceanfront park, and a string of boutiques of the world's top names in fashion and jewelry. 

The Plaza de Mercado de Santurce (near Calle Canals and Av.  Ponce de León) is a traditional food market and a great place for tropical fruits and vegetables; and there's a bunch more oddities, such as old Puerto Rican music recordings, herbs, and religious artifacts involving santería.  There are several good restaurants in the surrounding neighborhood (José Enrique's and La Tasca del Pescador) and several bars.  The neighborhood is a swirl of activity from early in the day through late evening.  On Thursday and Friday nights, large crowds gather as the streets are blocked off from traffic.  Several spots have live music.  It's a favorite after-work spot for locals and a lot of fun.  Just join the crowd and meander from one spot to the next.  Seafood fritters, chicken kebabs, and meat turnovers are sold from street vendors, and there is music everywhere. 

The city also has several beautiful green parks with loads of activities during weekends.  A plan to connect them via bicycle and pedestrian pathways is underway.  It will build on the Parque Lineal Marti Coli, which stretches for nearly 2 miles (3.2km) along Caño de Martín Peña, from Hato Rey to Parque Central.  Eventually this bicycle path will reach a distance of nearly 12 miles (19km), linking the Old City with Río Piedras.  Biking, hiking, and jogging pathways are planned; one day bikers will be able to go along the breadth of San Juan without having to encounter traffic.  In the meantime, enough trails have been completed for a memorable stroll. 

At night, in Old San Juan at Nuyorican Café, there's the sounds of salsa and Latin rhythms with an African beat, while Il Jazz Club in Condado serves up Latin jazz and related rhythms. 

Shopping

Because Puerto Rico is a U.S. commonwealth, U.S. citizens don't pay duty on items brought back to the mainland.  And you can still find great bargains on Puerto Rico, where the competition among shopkeepers is fierce.  Even though the U.S. Virgin Islands are duty-free, you can often find far lower prices on many items in San Juan than on St. Thomas.  A local 7% sales and use tax is levied on most goods and services. 

  Know When the Price Is Right

The only way to determine if you're paying less for an item in San Juan than you would at home is to find out what the going rate is in your hometown.  Obviously, if you can find items in San Juan cheaper than back home, go for it.  But know the prices before you go.  Otherwise, you could end up lugging merchandise back on an airplane when the same item was available at about the same price, or less, where you live. 

The streets of the Old City, such as Calle Fortaleza, Calle San Francisco, and Calle del Cristo, are the major venues for shopping.  After years of trying, local restrictions on operating hours of stores, aimed at protecting small businesses and the religious nature of Sundays in Roman Catholic Puerto Rico, were finally relaxed in 2010.  Shops and stores are now free to open any time except between 6am and 11am Sunday mornings.  In general, malls in San Juan are open Monday to Saturday 9am to 9pm and Sunday from 10am to 7pm.  In such tourism districts as Old San Juan and Condado, most stores still close by 7pm, but Old City shops remain open late whenever cruise ships are at harbor.  There are now more 24-hour grocery stores and pharmacies, and Walmart has instituted the concept at a few stores in suburban San Juan. 

Native handicrafts can be good buys, including needlework, straw work, ceramics, hammocks, and papier-mâché fruits and vegetables, as well as paintings and sculptures by Puerto Rican artists.  Among these, the carved wooden religious idols known as santos (saints) have been called Puerto Rico's greatest contribution to the plastic arts and are sought by collectors.  For the best selection of santos, head for Galería Botello (see "Art," below), Olé, or Puerto Rican Arts & Crafts (see "Gifts & Handicrafts," later in this chapter). 

Condado also has a lot of interesting shops, most of which line Avenida Ashford, along with the restaurants, hotels, and luxury condominiums. 

Puerto Rico's biggest and most up-to-date shopping mall is Plaza Las Américas, in the financial district of Hato Rey, right off the Las Américas Expressway.  This complex, with its fountains and modern architecture, has more than 200 shops, including great local boutiques and the biggest names in retail and fashion.  The variety of goods and prices is roughly comparable to that of large stateside malls.  There are also several top-notch restaurants, a full cineplex, plus art galleries and food stores.  If you want a break from the sun (or if it's raining), there are entertainment options here for all. 

Unless otherwise specified, the following stores can be reached via the Old City Trolley.  Likewise, store hours are noted only when they stray from those mentioned above. 

Antiques

El Alcazar   Established in 1986 by retired career officers with the U.S. Army and the U.S. Department of State, this is the largest emporium of antique furniture, silver, and art objects in the Caribbean.  There is a massive inventory at the main location, on Calle San José between Calle Luna and Calle Sol, but the collection of art and antiques of owners Sharon and Robert Bartos takes up other nearby locales as well.  You'll find antique silver, crystal, delicate porcelain, glittering chandeliers, Russian icons, and objects of religious devotion such as santos.  Some of the objects, especially the 1930s-era dining-room sets, whose chair backs are composed of wood medallions held in place by woven canes or wicker, derive from Puerto Rico.  The majority of the objects, however, are culled from estates and galleries throughout Europe.  Calle San José 103.    787/723-1229. 

Art

Butterfly People Butterfly People is a gallery in a handsomely restored building in Old San Juan.  Butterflies, sold here in artfully arranged boxes, range from $35 for a single mounting to thousands of dollars for whole-wall murals.  The butterflies are preserved and will last forever.  The dimensional artwork is sold in limited editions and can be shipped worldwide.  Most of these butterflies come from farms around the world, some of the most beautiful hailing from Indonesia, Malaysia, and New Guinea.  It's open Saturday and Sunday from 10am to 6pm.  Calle Cruz 257.    787/723-2432. 

Galería Botello ★ A contemporary Latin American art gallery, Galería Botello is a living tribute to the late Angel Botello, one of Puerto Rico's most outstanding artists.  Born after the Spanish Civil War in a small village in Galicia, Spain, he fled to the Caribbean and spent 12 years in Haiti.  His paintings and bronze sculptures, evocative of his colorful background, are done in a style uniquely his own.  This galería is his former colonial mansion home, which he restored himself.  Today it displays his paintings and sculptures, showcases the works of many outstanding local artists, and offers a large collection of Puerto Rican antique santos, hand-carved wooden statues of the saints.  Calle del Cristo 208.    787/723-9987. 

Galería Exodo This exciting gallery, which showcases work from young contemporary island and regional artists, is where, according to the gallery, "rigid notions like purity, tradition, and dogmas walk hand-in-hand with mixtures, innovation, and experimentation."  Centered in Puerto Rico and the wider Spanish Caribbean, the island also ventures into Haiti, the wider Caribbean Basin, and even to the U.S. Over 40 artists, from Cuba to Mexico, showcase work here.  Calle Cristo 200B.   787/725-4252. 

The Gallery Inn The Gallery Inn also serves as a gallery of the sculpture and paintings of Jan D'Esopo, a Connecticut-born artist who has spent decades living in Puerto Rico, most of the time in this beautiful rambling home overlooking the Old San Juan oceanfront.  Many of her fine pieces are in bronze.  In the Gallery Inn, Calle Norzagaray 204.    787/722-1808. 

Haitian Gallery This is the best store in San Juan, now with two locations, for Haitian art and artifacts.  Its walls are covered with framed versions of primitive Haitian landscapes, portraits, crowd scenes, and whimsical visions of jungles where lions, tigers, parrots, and herons take on quasi-human personalities and forms.  Most paintings range from $20 to $350, although you can usually bargain them down a bit.  Look for the brightly painted wall hangings crafted from sheets of metal.  Also look for satirical metal wall hangings, brightly painted, representing the tap-taps (battered public minivans and buses) of Port-au-Prince.  They make amusing and whimsical souvenirs of a trip to the Caribbean.  Open daily from 10am to 6pm.  Calle Fortaleza 206.    787/721-4362.  The other location is at Calle Fortaleza 367.    787/725-0986. 

Obra Galería Alegría   A bit off the well-worn gallery route, along Calle Cristo and Calle San José, this gallery is worth searching out for its representation of such important masters as Lorenzo Homar; Domingo García; Julio Rosado del Valle; and younger, accomplished, contemporary artists such as Nick Quijano, Jorge Zeno, and Magda Santiago.  The gallery was started by José Alegría, with the assistance of his uncle Ricardo Alegría, the founder of the Institute of Puerto Rican Culture.  It's open Tuesday through Saturday from 11am to 6pm.  Calle Cruz 301 (corner Recinto Sur).    787/723-3206. 

Books

La Tertulia A bookstore with a wide selection of books and music in a large, beautiful setting, La Tertulia carries the latest hits in Spanish and English, plus nonfiction, fiction, and classics in both Spanish and English.  It's open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 10pm and Sunday from 10am to 8pm.  Recinto Sur 305, Old San Juan.    787/724-8200. 

The Poet's Passage   This charming and beautiful bookstore, gallery, cafe, and poetry and art resource center is run by the enchanting Lady Lee Andrews, an Old San Juan poet, and her husband, the painter Nicolas Thomassin.  Their work is on sale here as are the replicas of Old San Juan facades and doors they create.  Many of Andrews' poems have been woven into paintings and other artwork.  It's open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 10pm and Sunday from 10am to 8pm.  Calle Cruz 203, Old San Juan.    787/567-9235. 

Carnival Masks

La Calle ★ Every Puerto Rican knows that the best, and cheapest, place to buy brightly painted carnival masks (caretas) is in Ponce, where the tradition of making them from papier-mâché originated.  But if you can't spare the time for a side excursion to Ponce, this store in Old San Juan stocks one of the most varied inventories of vegigantes in the Puerto Rican capital.  Depending on their size and composition (some include coconut shells, gourds, and flashy metal trim), they range in price from $10 to $2,500 each.  Side-by-side with the pagan-inspired masks, you'll find a well-chosen selection of paintings by talented local artists, priced from $25 to $2,800 each.  Calle Fortaleza 105.    787/725-1306. 

  Carnival masks

The most popular of all Puerto Rican crafts are the bright and festive caretas—papier-mâché masks worn at island carnivals.  They may be a tangle of horns, fangs, and bulging eyes, but with their carnival colors and the laughing, costumed revelers, called vegigantes, who wear them, they are more about announcing party time than trying to be scary.  The vegigantes wear bat-winged jumpsuits and roam the streets either individually or in groups. 

The origins of these masks and carnivals may go back to medieval Spain and/or tribal Africa.  A processional tradition in Spain, dating from the early 17th century, was intended to terrify sinners with marching devils, in the hope that they would return to church.  Cervantes described it briefly in Don Quixote.  Puerto Rico blended this Spanish procession with the masked tradition brought by slaves from Africa.  Some historians believe that the Taínos were also accomplished mask makers, which would make this a very ancient tradition indeed. 

The predominant traditional mask colors were black, red, and yellow, all symbols of hellfire and damnation.  Today, pastels are more likely to be used.  Each vegigante sports at least two or three horns, although some masks have hundreds of horns, in all shapes and sizes.  Mask-making in Ponce, the major center for this craft, and in Loíza Aldea, a palm-fringed town on the island's northeastern coast, has since led to a renaissance of Puerto Rican folk art. 

The premier store selling these masks is La Calle.  Masks can be seen in action at the three big masquerade carnivals on the island: the Ponce Festival in February, the Festival of Loíza Aldea in July, and the Día de las Máscaras at Hatillo in December. 

Cigars

The Cigar House This retail outlet has a great selection of cigars, including Puerto Rican–based jibarito cigars, but it sells quality Dominican brands as well.  It's a no-frills cigar shop with a nice selection.  Calle Fortaleza 257.    787/723-5523. 

The Doll House This shop shares space with the Cigar House and it now sells souvenirs, "no dolls!"  and has a pretty cool collection of tropical tchotchkes.  Calle Fortaleza 257.    787/721-6245. 

Don Collin's Cigars This is the main store of this locally produced brand of cigars, hand rolled on the island from locally grown tobacco and wraps, and sometimes mixed with fine tobacco from the Dominican Republic and elsewhere.  There are nine varieties, and five-count and nine-count variety packs are available.  Open daily from 9am to 8pm.  Calle Cristo 59.    787/977-2983. 

Clothing & Beachwear

Costazul This surf shop stocks major brands of beachwear, surf wear, sunglasses, and bathing suits for men, women, and children.  The prices are not bad, and the merchandise is top rate.  Worth a stop if you really need something for the beach.  Calle San Francisco 264.    787/722-0991. 

Hecho a Mano ★ Beautiful ethnic clothing for women, using island fabric but also that from Guatemala, Indonesia, India, and Africa.  Styles range from willowy dresses and wraps in tribal patterns, to more modern, tropical-fashion party dresses.  It has gorgeous clothes, plus handmade jewelry and other interesting finds.  The ambience in the store is wonderful, complete with incense, world music, and the beautiful sales staff outfitted in the store's fashions.  Founded in 1993, the company prides itself on its dealings with its artisans and its efforts to undertake practices and designs in harmony with nature.  Now with 12 locations, including Condado and Plaza Las Américas.  Old San Juan location open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 7pm, Sunday from 11am to 5pm.  Calle San Francisco 260, Old San Juan.    787/722-5322. 

Mrs. and Miss Boutique The home of the "the magic dress," which is crafted in Morocco of a silky-looking blend of rayon and cotton, in 10 different colors or patterns, each of which can be worn 11 different ways.  There are much better deals on the sarongs and long dresses, sometimes from Indonesia.  Calle Fortaleza 154.    787/724-8571. 

Nono Maldonado Named after its owner, a Puerto Rico–born designer who worked for many years as the fashion editor of Esquire magazine, this is one of the most fashionable and upscale haberdashers in the Caribbean.  Selling both men's and women's clothing, it contains everything from socks to dinner jackets, as well as ready-to-wear versions of Maldonado's twice-a-year collections.  Both ready-to-wear and couture are available here.  Av.  Ashford 1112   787/721-0456.  Bus: A7. 

Polo Ralph Lauren Factory Store   It's as stylish and carefully orchestrated as anything you'd expect from one of North America's leading clothiers.  Even better, its prices are often 35% to 40% less than in retail stores on the U.S. mainland.  You can find even greater discounts on irregular or slightly damaged garments, but inspect them carefully before buying.  The store occupies two floors of a pair of colonial buildings.  Calle del Cristo 201.    787/722-2136. 

Ruedo This funky vintage clothing and accessory shop in the Old City has some great stuff, much of it appropriately aimed at the tropics.  It's open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 10pm and Sunday from 11am to 8pm.  Calle Sol 201, Old San Juan.    787/466-3068. 

Wet Boutique The ever-chic Erika has been selling the sexiest swimsuits in town for decades.  There's a wide selection of top-name bikini and one-piece designs, plus upscale beach accessories.  Calle Cruz 150, Old San Juan.    787/722-2052. 

Coffee & Spices

Cafe Hacienda San Pedro This casual coffee shop across the street from the Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico serves up delicious cups of hand-roasted coffee grown on the Hacienda San Pedro in Jayuya.  The owner's family has been growing this delicious coffee for a century.  You can buy packages of it to take home.  A must-stop if you are visiting the museum.  Open Monday through Friday 6:30am to 6pm, Saturday 9am to 3:30pm.  Av.  De Diego 318, Santurce.    787/725-7744. 

Corné Port-Royal Chocolatier A purveyor of the finest chocolate in the World: Belgian chocolates, pralines, and truffles.  The smell of warm chocolate hits you as soon as you enter.  They also sell gourmet coffee, cookies, and jellies.  With a multilingual owner, and visitors from around the world popping in, you are as likely to hear French or German as English or Spanish.  Open Monday through Saturday 10am to 6pm.  Calle San Justo 204, Old San Juan.    787/725-7744. 

The Coffee of Kings & Popes

Of all the coffees of Puerto Rico, the best is Alto Grande, which has been a tradition in Puerto Rican households since 1839.  Over the years, this super-premium coffee has earned a reputation for being the "coffee of popes and kings," and is hailed as one of the top three coffees in the world.  A magnificently balanced coffee, Alto Grande is a rare and exotic coffee with a sweet, pointed aroma and a bright sparkling flavor.  The bean is grown in the highest mountains of the Lares range.  This coffee is served at leading hotels and restaurants in Puerto Rico.  Should you develop a taste for it, it is also available at most groceries in Puerto Rico and through various specialty stores throughout the United States. 

Besides Alto Grande, there are other well-known specialty brands, such as Yauco Selecto, and an avalanche of boutique coffee blends have popped up recently.  Among my favorites is Finca Cialitos (www.fincacialitos.com), which has rich, complex flavor that becomes familiar fast.  It is grown by Joaquin Pastor in Ciales, Puerto Rico.  Also worth a try is Hacienda San Pedro (www.cafehsp.com), another hand-roasted coffee that is sold from a shop of the same name in Santurce.  Coffee lovers might want to try Joaquin's gourmet coffee and a few more of the new small labels, which manually roast their coffee to maximize flavor.  The regular Puerto Rican coffee—Café Crema or Yaucono, for instance—is also quite good. 

Finca Cialitos This cool cafe is an altar to the rich coffee grown, harvested, and hand-roasted by Joaquin Pastor from his family farm in Ciales.  The hard work is all about bringing to the fore the delicate characteristics imbued into the coffee from the land and rain in the hills surrounding the Toro Negro River in the heart of Puerto Rico where it is grown.  Open Tuesday through Saturday 9am to 6pm.  Calle San Justo 204, Old San Juan.    939-207-9998. 

Spicy Caribbee This shop has the best selection of Puerto Rican coffee, which is gaining an increasingly good reputation among aficionados.  We love the jerk rub, banana ketchup, mango chutney, and all the fiery sauces, such as mango pepper or green fire.  There are also such delicacies as rum balls, great colorful recipe books, wonderful music, and handicrafts.  The flavors of the Caribbean flow through this shop in many ways.  Calle Cristo 154.    787/725-4690. 

Discount Stores

Marshalls This store, part of the U.S. discount chain, is one of the best in the whole Caribbean.  Thousands of sanjuaneros flock here for the cut-rate prices on designer clothes, housewares, home furnishings, and shoes, plus a variety of other merchandise.  There's also an incredible amount of quality stuff at good prices for the traveler: from bathing suits to shorts to sandals to luggage to sunglasses.  In fact, this is probably your best bet for an affordable bathing suit.  In Plaza de Armas, across from the City Hall, at Calle Rafael Cordero 154, Old San Juan.    787/722-3020. 

Gifts & Handicrafts

Art-Furniture-Art Located at La Cochera parking garage in the heart of the historic zone, this gallery of fine-art furniture and furnishings is a cool respite and well worth a look.  Designer Diana M. Ramos began making reproductions and originals of classic Caribbean plantation furniture and more traditional Spanish colonial work, but has now moved on to creating spare, modern pieces.  Both are still on display and for sale in what are essentially limited editions.  Their common traits are the artistic standards brought to them through their organic form and creativity.  Calle Luna 204, Old San Juan.    787/722-4181. 

Barrachina   The birthplace, in 1963, of the piña colada (an honor co-claimed by the staff at the Caribe Hilton), Barrachina's is a favorite of cruise-ship passengers.  It offers one of the largest selections of jewelry, perfume, cigars, and gifts in San Juan.  There's a patio for drinks where you can order (what else?)  a piña colada.  There is also a Bacardi rum outlet (bottles cost less than stateside but cost the same as at the Bacardi distillery), a costume jewelry department, a gift shop, and a section for authentic silver jewelry, plus a restaurant with nightly flamenco shows.  The city's most famous tourist trap but worth at least a look and a piña colada, even though I'm in the Hilton camp.  Calle Fortaleza 104 (btw.  Calle del Cristo and Calle San José).    787/725-7912. 

  shopping for Santos

The most impressive of the island's crafts are the santos, carved religious figures that have been produced since the 1500s.  Craftspeople who make these are called santeros; using clay, gold, stone, or cedar wood, they carve figurines representing saints, usually from 8 to 20 inches (20–51cm) tall.  Before the Spanish colonization, small statues, called zemi, stood in native tribal villages and camps as objects of veneration, and Puerto Rico's santos may derive from that pre-Columbian tradition.  Every town has its patron saint, and every home has its santos to protect the family.  For some families, worshipping the santos replaces a traditional Mass.

Art historians view the carving of santos as Puerto Rico's greatest contribution to the fine arts.  The earliest figures were richly baroque, indicating a strong Spanish influence, but as the islanders began to assert their own identity, the carved figures often became simpler. 

In carving santos, craftspeople often used handmade tools.  Sometimes such natural materials as vegetable dyes and even human hair were used.  The saints represented by most santos can be identified by their accompanying symbols; for example, Saint Anthony is usually depicted with the infant Jesus and a book.  The most popular group of santos is the Three Kings.  The Trinity and the Nativity are also depicted frequently. 

Art experts claim that santos-making approached its zenith at the turn of the 20th century, although hundreds of santeros still practice their craft throughout the island.  Serious santos collectors view the former craftsmen of old as the true artists in the field.  The best collection of santos is found at Puerto Rican Arts & Crafts . 

Some of the best santos on the island can be seen at the Capilla de Cristo in Old San Juan.  Perhaps at some future date, a museum devoted entirely to santos will open in Puerto Rico. 

Bóveda ★ This long, narrow space is crammed with exotic jewelry, clothing, greeting cards with images of life in Puerto Rico, some 100 handmade lamps, antiques, Mexican punched tin and glass, and Art Nouveau reproductions, among other items.  Calle del Cristo 209.    787/725-0263. 

Ecléctica Two spacious locations in the Old City offer teak furniture, artisan jewelry, textiles, hammocks, lamps, and other home furnishings and handicrafts.  There's a nice mix of Spanish colonial and Asian-Caribbean style running through most items.  With "style and harmony" as its motto, this shop has beautiful stuff for the home as well as gourmet items.  From soap and candles to kitchen utensils, there are some beautiful things here for homebodies, or those who want to get a gift for one.  Calle O'Donnell 204, Plaza Colón.    787/721-7236.  Also at Calle Cruz 205, Plaza de Armas.    787/725-3163. 

Mundo Taíno Get a taste of the beauty of Puerto Rican culture, in this appropriately bright and friendly shop with local jewelry, statues, prints, fabrics, and other handicrafts, plus music and literature.  You can also get a CD with rainforest sounds, gourmet coffee, local sweets, rum, and other delicacies.  A young, helpful, and friendly staff who know their stuff work here.  Calle San José 151, Old San Juan.    787/723-2214. 

Olé ★ Browsing this store is a learning experience.  Even the standard Panama hat takes on new dimensions.  Woven from fine-textured paja grass and priced from $20 to $1,000, depending on the density of the weave, the hats are all created the same size, and then blocked—by an employee on-site—to fit the shape of your head.  Dig into this store's diverse inventory to discover a wealth of treasures—hand-beaten Chilean silver, Peruvian Christmas ornaments, Puerto Rican santos—almost all from Puerto Rico or Latin America.  Calle Fortaleza 105.    787/724-2445. 

Puerto Rican Arts & Crafts ★ Set in a 200-year-old colonial building, this unique store is one of the premier outlets on the island for authentic artifacts.  Of particular interest are papier-mâché carnival masks from Ponce, whose grotesque and colorful features were originally conceived to chase away evil spirits.  Taíno designs inspired by ancient petroglyphs are incorporated into most of the sterling-silver jewelry sold here.  There's an art gallery in back, with silk-screened serigraphs by local artists.  The outlet has a gourmet Puerto Rican–food section with such items as coffee, rum, and hot sauces for sale.  A related specialty of this well-respected store involves the exhibition and sale of modern replicas of the Spanish colonial tradition of santos, which are carved and sometimes polychromed representations of the Catholic saints and the infant Jesus.  Priced from $50 to $1,100 each, and laboriously carved by artisans in private studios around the island, they're easy to pack in a suitcase because the largest one measures only 12 inches (31cm) from halo to toe.  Closes at 6pm Monday through Saturday and 5pm Sunday.  Calle Fortaleza 204.    787/725-5596. 

Vaughn's Gifts & Crafts This store offers crafts from Puerto Rico and elsewhere, but specializes in straw and Panamanian hats.  It's quite a large collection for the tropical hat collector, plus other colorful crafts from the island and elsewhere in the region.  Calle Fortaleza 262.    787/721-8221. 

Jewelry

Bared & Sons Now in its 4th decade, this is the main outlet of a chain of at least 20 upscale jewelry stores on Puerto Rico.  On the ground floor are gemstones, gold, diamonds, and watches.  One floor up, there's a monumental collection of porcelain and crystal.  It's a great source for hard-to-get and discontinued patterns from Christofle, Royal Doulton, Wedgwood, Limoges, Royal Copenhagen, Lalique, Lladró, Herend, Baccarat, and Daum.  San Justo 206 (at the corner of Calle Fortaleza).    787/724-4811. 

Emerald Isles This jewelry boutique in the Old Town is smaller than other entities that specialize in colored gemstones, but because of its much lower overhead, its prices can sometimes be more reasonable.  It specializes in Colombian emeralds, already set into silver or gold settings or waiting for you to select one.  But as long as you're in the shop, look also at the unusual inventories of contemporary reproductions of pre-Columbian jewelry, some of it gold-plated and richly enameled.  Many of these pieces sell for around $50 each, and some of them are genuinely intriguing.  Calle Fortaleza 105.    787/977-3769. 

Reinhold Jewelers ★ This is one of Puerto Rico's top shops featuring work by local and world-renowned jewelry designers.  Its main location, and the adjacent David Yurman design boutique, spread across two locations at the ground floor of Plaza Las América inside one of its main entrances.  Gaze through the beautiful windows at the dazzling creations inside.  There's also a location at El San Juan Hotel Gallery.  With two prime retail locations in San Juan, this store offers creations by internationally renowned jewelry designers and is probably both the most respected and dazzling shop in town.  It's also known for its top service and its annual holiday catalog for clients.  Home to Tiffany & Co., David Yurman, Robert Lee Morris, Vera Wang, Mikimoto, John Hardy, and Lisa Jenks.  Plaza Las Américas 24A, 24B, Hato Rey.    787/554-0528.  Other location at El San Juan Hotel Gallery, Isla Verde.    787/796-2521. 

Venetian Jewelers This thriving jewelry store in the Old City has a beautiful collection and carries such items as Sophia Fiori's award-winning diamond rings, including blue diamonds, Phillip Stein watches, Kabana's mother of pearl, and House of Taylor.  Calle Fortaleza 259.    787/722-6960.  A second location is at Calle Tanca 252.    787/724-1211. 

A Dying Art: Old Lace

Another Puerto Rican craft has undergone a big revival just as it seemed that it would disappear forever: lace.  Originating in Spain, mundillos (tatted fabrics) are the product of a type of bobbin lace-making.  This 5-centuries-old craft exists today only in Puerto Rico and Spain. 

The first lace made in Puerto Rico was called torchon (beggar's lace).  Early examples of beggar's lace were considered of inferior quality, but artisans today have transformed this fabric into a delicate art form, eagerly sought by collectors.  Lace bands called entrados have two straight borders, whereas the other traditional style, puntilla, has both a straight and a scalloped border. 

The best outlet in San Juan for lace is Linen House. 

Lace & Linens

Linen House This unpretentious store specializes in table linens, bed linens, and lace, and has the island's best selection.  Some of the most delicate pieces are expensive, but most are moderate in price.  Inventories include embroidered shower curtains, lace doilies, bun warmers, place mats, and tablecloths that seamstresses took weeks to complete.  Some astonishingly lovely items are available for as little as $30.  The aluminum/pewter serving dishes have beautiful Spanish-colonial designs.  Prices here are sometimes 40% lower than those on the North American mainland.  Calle Fortaleza 250, 104.    787/721-4219 or 725-6233. 

Leather & Equestrian Accessories

Coach Here you can find fine leather goods, from belts to bags to purses.  This outlet sells discontinued products, so you can find some real bargains.  Calle Cristo 150.    787/722-6830. 

Dooney & Bourke Factory Store Leather lovers will also want to pass through here, especially for the buttery smooth women's handbags.  You can find bargains on its complete line of high-quality leatherwear, which also includes briefcases, wallets, and belts.  Real bargains on first-rate products.  Calle Cristo 200, Old San Juan.    787/289-0075. 

Lalin Leather Shop Although it lies in an out-of-the-way suburb (Puerto Nuevo), about 2 miles (3.2km) south of San Juan, this is the best and most comprehensive cowboy and equestrian outfitter in Puerto Rico, probably in the entire Caribbean.  Here you'll find all manner of boots, cowboy hats, and accessories.  More important, however, is the wide array of saddles and bridles, some from Colombia, some from Puerto Rico, with both cost-conscious and extravagant prices.  Even the highest-priced items cost a lot less than their U.S. mainland equivalents, so if you happen to have a horse or pony on the U.S. mainland, a visit here might be worth your while.  If you decide to make the rather inconvenient pilgrimage, you won't be alone.  Regular clients come from as far away as Iceland, the Bahamas, and New York.  Everything can be shipped.  Av.  Piñero 1617, Puerto Nuevo.    787/781-5305 or 749-4815.  Bus: B17. 

Malls

Belz Factory Outlet World The largest mall of its kind in Puerto Rico, and the Caribbean as well, opened in 2001 in Canóvanas, east of San Juan en route to El Yunque.  Totally enclosed and air-conditioned, it re-creates the experience of strolling through the streets of Old San Juan, sans the traffic and heat.  Five interconnected buildings comprise the mall, with dozens of stores from Nike to Gap, from Dockers to Levi's to Maidenform, from Samsonite to Guess, and from Papaya to Geoffrey Beene.  The factory-outlet pricing is on everything, including the movies.  Hwy.  3 18400, Barrio Pueblo, Canóvanas.    787/256-7040.  No bus. 

Plaza Las Américas ★ The island's first big mall and still the largest in the Caribbean, Plaza, as it is known by locals, is a world unto itself.  Even by U.S. standards it's a remarkable place with top-name retailers, full-service restaurants, a Cineplex, two food courts, a spa, and hair stylists.  Restaurant tenants include P.F. Chang's China Bistro.  Retail outlets include Macy's, Armani Exchange, Banana Republic, and Guess, as well as high-quality designer boutiques, with over 300 stores in all.  There is also a U.S. post office, branches of all major island banks, and a full medical and office center.  There are often shows and special events—from boat and racecar exhibits to fashion shows and concerts—taking place along its hallways.  There's action from morning to night, and it's a quick trip from any San Juan hotel.  Av.  Franklin Delano Roosevelt 525, Hato Rey.    787/767-5202.  Bus: B22. 

Markets

Plaza del Mercado de Santurce ★ Puerto Rico shows its Latin American side with this traditional marketplace, rescued in a recent renovation from an offbeat curiosity to a rich and integral part of the life of San Juan.  There are all sorts of local fruits and vegetables; "botanicas" hawking everything from medicinal herbs to Puerto Rican bay rum; small fondas serving up typical Puerto Rican dishes, including roast pork; and you can also order the best mango, papaya, or banana frappes on the island.  The surrounding seafood and comida criolla restaurants are some of the best in the city, at affordable prices, and the streets are closed to traffic weekend evenings; it is often the hottest spot to go in town.  Calle Dos Hermanos at Calle Capitol, Santurce.    787/723-8022.  Bus: A5. 

San Juan Nightlife

San Juan nightlife comes in all varieties.  From the vibrant performing-arts scene to street-level salsa, and with casinos, discos, and bars, there's plenty of entertainment available almost any evening. 

Island nightlife begins very late, especially on Friday and Saturday nights.  Hang out until the late, late afternoon on the beach, have dinner around 8pm (9 would be even better), and then the night is yours.  The true party animal will rock until the broad daylight.  Many bars and nightclubs are open until 2am during the week, and 4am on weekends.  Many clubs and some bars are closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. 

¡QuéPasa!,  the official visitor's guide to Puerto Rico, lists cultural events, including music, dance, theater, film, and art exhibits.  It's distributed free by the tourist office.  Local newspapers, such as the English-language weekly Caribbean Business (which carries a daily website at www.caribbeanbusinesspr.com), often have entertainment information and concert and cultural listings, as do the English-language Puerto Rico Daily Sun and the Spanish-language El Vocero, El Nuevo Día, and Primera Hora daily newspapers.  Also check the Ticketpop website (www.ticketpop.com), which lists upcoming major acts. 

The Performing Arts

Centro de Bellas Artes In the heart of Santurce, the Performing Arts Center is a 6-minute taxi ride from most of the Condado hotels.  It contains the Festival Hall, Drama Hall, and the Experimental Theater.  Some of the events here will be of interest only to Spanish speakers; others attract an international audience.  Av.  Ponce de León 22.    787/724-4747 or 725-7334 for the ticket agent.  Tickets $40–$200; 50% discounts for seniors.  Bus: A-5, M1. 

Teatro Tapía Standing across from Plaza de Colón and built about 1832, this is one of the oldest theaters in the Western Hemisphere (see "Historic Sights," earlier in this chapter).  Productions, some musical, are staged throughout the year and include drama, dances, and cultural events.  You'll have to call the box office (Mon–Fri 9am–6pm) for specific information.  Av.  Fortaleza at Plaza Colón.    787/721-0180.  Tickets $20–$30, depending on the show.  Bus: Old San Juan bus station, trolley. 

The Club & Music Scene

Aché   This is your best opportunity to listen to real local live salsa, rumba, bomba, and plena music performances, which have the audience clapping their hands, chanting, and moving their feet.  Don't worry if you don't know what it all means, you won't miss the feeling of the beat.  The spot attracts university students, older Afrocaribeno music aficionados, and curious tourists.  The music and atmosphere are tops and so is the short Puerto Rican tapas menu, with fried chicken, arepas, and flatbread pizzas.  The entrance is free, making this spot a bargain, even with the short cab ride from Condado and Ocean Park area hotels and guest houses.  Open Thursday through Sunday from 7pm.  Calle Diez de Andino, Santurce.    787/410-3280.  Bus: A5. 

Club Brava and Ultra Lounge ★ This club is part of the reason the El San Juan has a reputation as the city hotel with the best nightlife.  The young and privileged, local celebs, and urbane visitors mix it up on the club's dance floor to a soulful mix of house, reggaeton, and Latin music styles.  The nightclub is designed in the form of a circle, with a central dance floor and a wraparound balcony.  There's also a laid-back lounge area for conversation and table service.  One of the best sound systems in the Caribbean, its stage is often the scene of memorable performances.  The dress code is "fashionably elegant" and management requests that you dress to impress.  Open Thursday through Saturday from 10pm until 5am.  In El San Juan Hotel & Casino, Av.  Isla Verde 6063, Isla Verde.    787/791-2781.  Cover hovers around $15, depending on event; free for guests of El San Juan Hotel (just show room key).  Bus: A5. 

Club Lazer This Old San Juan Club has been hopping for nearly 2 decades through various transformations.  A huge cavernous place in the middle of town, there's salsa and other tropical music Friday nights and reggaeton Saturdays.  Sundays, ladies night, are particularly jamming.  The club opens at 10pm Friday through Sunday and attracts a large local crowd as well as regular customers who work on the cruise-ship lines, and young people from throughout the world.  Calle Cruz 251, Old San Juan.    787/722-7581.  Cover charges range from $10–$15. 

Il Jazz Club ★ This is a great spot in the heart of Condado that brings top local Latin jazz acts, as well as some inventive shows from visiting musicians from New York and other cities.  This small amiable spot is doing much to keep San Juan's long-standing, but sporadically endangered, tradition of live jazz performances alive.  The food's also mighty fine, with great appetizers ($9–$16) like antipasto platters and risotto croquettes, and such classic entrees ($16–$29) as beef tenderloin with mushrooms, and a seafood fettuccini in marinara sauce.  Open Tuesday to Sunday from 5pm to 2am.  Av.  Ashford, Condado.    787/200-9008. 

The Latin Roots ★ This mammoth lounge and dinner club is the spot to hear salsa and other Latin rhythms.  You can take salsa dance lessons, eat fine Puerto Rican cooking, and listen to Latin big bands performing that brash tropical sound every night.  The establishment is decorated with photographs and memorabilia from the golden days of salsa and pays tribute to some of the greats of tropical music.  This is the place that San Juan needed, as it guarantees an opportunity to listen to and dance salsa.  An impressive spot with its own store.  Edificio Galeria Portuario, Recino Sur y Calle Comercio, Old San Juan.    787/977-1887. 

Lupi's Mexican Grill & Sports Cantina Occasional Latin pop and hot salsa at this Mexican pub and restaurant, with a heaping of local flavor thrown in.  Yankees fans will want to know that former ace Ed Figueroa owns the spot.  Familiar dishes, such as fajitas, nachos, tacos, and burritos, are served, as well as seafood and local platters.  There are plenty of televisions to see the game of the moment.  There are both Isla Verde and Old San Juan locations.  Isla Verde: Av.  Isla Verde, Km.  187.    787/253-1664.  Old San Juan: Recinto Sur 313.    787/722-1874. 

Nuyorican Café ★★ When the Rolling Stones played the new Coliseum during their last world tour, Mick Jagger and Keith Richards came straight here to listen to the salsa.  The house band, the Comborican, burns down the house whenever it takes the stage.  There's also Latin jazz and reggae, theatrical performances, art exhibits, and a damn good kitchen (the pizza is one of the island's best).  Recent performers have included the top names in Puerto Rican music, including Pedro Guerra, Roy Brown, Alfredo Naranjo, Cultura Profética, and salsa greats Bobbie Valentín, Ray Santiago, Polito Huerta, Luis Marín, Jerry Medina, and Tito Allen.  The cafe also hosts special weeklong musical festivals and has put on long-running performance art and theatrical programs, usually earlier in the evening before the bands get going.  Also some very fine rock en Español.  The bar is open until at least 3am.  Calle San Francisco 312 (entrance down the alley), Old San Juan.    787/977-1276 or 366-5074. 

Music While You Munch

Several restaurants in Old San Juan, and elsewhere throughout the city, have live music on certain days of the week.  Knowing the schedule could help you decide on where to eat dinner.  The Parrot Club has live Latin jazz and salsa a few nights weekly, as does Bar Gitano in Condado and Koko in Isla Verde.  Café Concierto (www.carlicafeconcierto.com;   787/725-4927) has live jazz nightly at 9pm, while Barrachina Restaurant has a live flamenco music and dance show nightly.  La Playita in Isla Verde hosts weekend troubadours and has a breathtaking view over the sea, while Condado's Yerba Buena, Av.  Ashford 1350, Condado (  787/721-7500) has Latin Jazz on Monday nights and Cuban salsa Fridays. 

The Bar Scene

Unless otherwise stated, there is no cover charge at the bars recommended below. 

Amadeus Bistro Bar There's great food and live music nightly Monday through Friday at 7pm.  It's mostly Spanish ballads and other bohemia performed piano-bar style.  Near the financial district, federal court, and other important office buildings, the place caters to the local professional crowd.  Av.  Chardón 350, Hato Rey.    787/641-7450.  Bus: B21. 

The Brick Haus A pub open to the wee hours serving good old "gringo Rican" cuisine.  There's a big-screen television for sports events (even if it's poker) and great grub, such as steaks, fish, Mexican, burgers, and sandwiches.  A favorite with coast guard personnel and their local girlfriends.  Calle O'Donnell 359, Old San Juan.    787/723-1947.  Bus: Old City Trolley. 

Eight Noodle Bar Chinese Right outside the entrance to San Juan's liveliest casino, this Asian bar serves up classic Chinese that tastes straight from New York City's Chinatown: sticky rice, dumplings, all kinds of noodle dishes, scallion pancakes, pork pot stickers, delicious shrimp tempura, and walnut chicken.  The small spot draws partiers from across Condado into the wee hours of the morning, as well as the casino refugees.  It is a great spot, open daily from 4pm to 4am.  Av.  Ashford 999, Condado Plaza Hotel, Condado.    787/723-8881. 

El Batey   Graffiti and business cards cover the walls of this dive bar with a great jukebox and a view of the procession up and down Calle Cristo during weekend nights.  Drawings of the legends of this storied watering hole are hung in its main room.  There's always somebody to talk to at the bar, which draws an eccentric local crowd and independent-minded visitors.  Patrons play chess and backgammon as well.  The jukebox has great classic and psychedelic rock, some great Sinatra, and some priceless jazz standards by the likes of Duke Ellington and Charlie Parker.  A haven for hipsters living in or strolling into town for decades.  Calle Cristo 101.    787/725-1787.  No bus. 

El Patio de Sam Come here for a drink and a snack on your bar-crawl through Old San Juan.  A guitar player entertains weekend evenings, and there are always interesting folks hanging out.  One of the city's most popular late-night joints with a good selection of beers.  Open daily noon to 1am.  Calle San Sebastián 102.    787/723-1149.  Bus: Old Town Trolley. 

El San Juan Hotel & Casino Lobby Bar This beautiful bar, one of the nicest in the entire Caribbean, lures hotel guests and well-heeled locals who vie to look as fabulous as the setting; they make up at least a quarter of the business at this fashionable rendezvous.  Set in an oval wrapped around a sunken bar area, amid marble and burnished mahogany, it offers a view of one of the world's largest chandeliers.  After 7pm on Monday through Saturday, live music, often salsa and merengue, emanates from an adjoining room.  Watch the models strut by, the honeymoon couple, or the table of high rollers from New York having a drink before trying their luck again.  This is still a place to be seen in the city.  Open daily 6pm to 3am.  In Old San Juan Hotel & Casino, Av.  Isla Verde 6063, Isla Verde.    787/791-1000.  Bus: A5. 

Ficus Mexican Bar &Grill This modern, open-air cafe is a favorite happy hour watering hole for sanjuaneros, surrounded by the illuminated convention center and a huge fountain in an unending dance of liquid and light.  Churrasco tacos, jalapeño poppers, and shrimp fajitas are among the south-of-the-border tapas that are on offer here.  DJs and other performances on weekends.  Thursday through Saturday 5pm to 2am, Sunday 2pm to 10pm.  At the Puerto Rico Convention Center, 100 Convention Blvd.,  Miramar.    787/641-7722. 

La Sombrilla Rosa  A nice neighborhood bar with daily happy hours, a relaxed atmosphere with friendly staff and patrons, and good music.  Weekdays, until 3pm, it serves flavorful comida criolla at prices ranging from $5.50 to $8.  Basic stuff such as steak and onions and grilled chicken, everything with rice and pink beans and tostones.  At night, there are often beer and drink specials, music on the sound system, sports on TV, sometimes live performances, and always interesting people from the neighborhood.  Open from 9:30am to 3pm for lunch, then from 7pm to at least 3am nightly.  Calle San Sebastián 154.    787/725-5656.  Bus: Old Town Trolley. 

Mist The rooftop bar at the Water Club boutique hotel has a tasty Spanish-Italian fusion tapas menu and great views.  Redone in a simple tropical style to make way for the rooftop pool, we still love this place even though it's as far away from Wet, its previous incarnation, as you can get.  In the San Juan Water & Beach Club, Calle José M. Tartak 2.    787/728-3666.  Bus: A5. 

The birth of the Piña Colada

When actress Joan Crawford tasted the piña colada at what was then the Beachcombers Bar in the Caribe Hilton, Calle Los Rosales (  787/721-0303), she claimed it was "better than slapping Bette Davis in the face." 

One story has it that the famous drink is the creation of bartender Ramon "Monchito" Marrero, now long gone, who was hired by the Hilton in 1954.  He spent 3 months mixing, tasting, and discarding hundreds of combinations until he felt he had the right blend.  Thus, the frothy piña colada was born.  It's been estimated that some 100 million of them have been sipped around the world since that fateful time. 

Monchito never patented his formula and didn't mind sharing it with the world.  Still served at the Hilton, here is his not-so-secret recipe:

2 ounces light rum

1 ounce coconut cream

1 ounce heavy cream

6 ounces fresh pineapple juice

1⁄2 cup crushed ice

Pineapple wedge and maraschino cherry for garnish

Pour rum, coconut cream, heavy cream, and pineapple juice in blender.  Add ice.  Blend for 15 seconds.  Pour into a 12-ounce glass.  Add garnishes. 

The folks at Barrachina, meanwhile, insist a bartender employed with the restaurant, Ramón Portas Mingot, developed the drink that put the island on the world cocktail map. 

Pa'l Cielo   This "chinchorro glorificado," a kind of glorified greasy spoon, serves tasty food in a bright, tropical, funky setting and plays host to some great bands.  The result is it's one of the most popular spots in town for the young, creative crowd.  There's tasty Latin and regional flair, with some Asian and Middle Eastern influences mixed in, plus tasty pizzas and salads.  The music often impresses, as does the crowd.  There's everything from Latin jazz-standard singers to Spanish punk bands.  A great place to mix with locals.  Open Wednesday to Saturday 5pm to 2am, and Sunday 4pm to 1am.  The kitchen closes at 11pm Wednesday and Sunday, and midnight Thursday to Saturday.  Calle Loiza 2056.    787/727-6798.  Bus: A5. 

Plan B   Okay pizza, calzones, and pub fare, plus loud live music nearly every night (often '80s rock), draws a lively crowd at this amiable spot.  Prices are good and the service friendly.  A favorite watering hole for young professionals on the prowl and rock fans.  Open Tuesday to Sunday 5pm to 2am.  Calle Loiza 509.    787/993-5468.  Bus: A5. 

Solera ★★ Having some drinks and tapas off the lobby of this renovated beauty of a hotel is a great way to taste the essence of San Juan nightlife.  The sophisticated but comfortable setting spills from the lobby to a multilevel pool area, and you can sit on beautiful, tropical furnishings under the stars and amid lush vegetation, or within the marble cool of indoors.  The sangria here is delicious; and there are also pitchers of mojitos and other drinks to go down with such delicacies as coconut calamari sticks, juicy Asian churrasco, paella, and sushi rolls.  The lobby bar is the spot for the young and beautiful, and the adjacent casino never closes.  Av.  Ashford 1077, San Juan.    787/721-7500.  Bus: C53, B21. 

  Romantic Sunsets

There is no better place on a Sunday night from 5:30 to 7pm to watch the sun set over Old San Juan than at Paseo de la Princesa.  In this evocative colonial setting, you can hear local trios serenade you as the sun goes down.  Or walk around and follow it along around the base of El Morro.  A great place to share the moment with your lover. 

Hot Nights in Gay San Juan

San Juan has probably the largest and most influential gay community in the Caribbean, and Puerto Rico is largely accepting and supportive of it.  That was evident when Ricky Martin officially came out of the closet in 2010, and he was embraced with waves of support from his island fans.  So visitors seeking gay- and lesbian-friendly establishments will find ample choices and have lots of opportunities to interact with locals and visitors alike.  Some discos, known for the hot music and dancing, also draw straight couples as well.  Many mainstream restaurants and nightclubs have core gay clientele as well, especially in the Condado, Santurce, and Old San Juan areas. 

Circo Bar A stylish spot that is probably the number-one gay bar for men in San Juan.  The DJs pump up the house while the crowd gets loose on the dance floor.  There are also dance and video bars, a lounge to kick back in, and an outdoor smoking bar.  The crowd does not begin forming until after midnight, when the boys behind the bar rip off their shirts and the party really gets going.  A few blocks from Condado's main tourism drag, it's a quick cab ride away and there is private, secure parking.  No cover charge.  There are also shows and karaoke depending on the night.  Open daily 9pm to 5am, even holidays.  Calle Condado 650, Condado.    787/725-9676.  Bus: B21. 

Krash Klub This two-level nightclub is still the city's biggest gay club, with cutting-edge music and bathrooms with creative decor.  The festive dance club draws a party crowd, and you might think for a moment you're inside one of those converted warehouse clubs in downtown New York or L.A. Gorgeous people and a smart-looking spot.  Don't bother coming before midnight.  Open Wednesday to Sunday 10pm to 3 or 5am.  Av.  Ponce de León 1257, Santurce.    787/722-1131.  Cover $5–$10, more for special events.  Bus: 1. 

Tia Maria's Liquor Store This is not a liquor store, but a bar that caters to locals and visitors alike.  The place has a very welcoming and unpretentious attitude, attracting both men and women.  Don't come here for entertainment, but to hang out with the locals.  It's best to come here during early evening happy hours, which attract an after-work professional crowd.  Near many other gay discos.  Open Monday to Thursday and Sunday 11am to midnight; Friday to Saturday 10am to 2am.  Av.  José de Diego 326 (near the corner of Av.  Ponce de León), Santurce.    787/724-4011.  Bus: B1. 

La Rumba Party Cruise

The trouble with most nightlife venues in San Juan is that the real parties in conventional nightclubs begin at hours so impossibly late that the average visitor will tend to be deep asleep by the time the dance floors at city clubs begin getting filled up.  So if you love to salsa and merengue, but if you maintain relatively conservative ideas about your bedtime, consider the La Rumba Party Cruise as a viable option.  It all takes place aboard a neon-lit two-level minicruiser that's moored most of the time to a point near Old San Juan's Pier 1 (Plaza Darsenas).  Schedules vary according to business, but cruises tend to last 2 hours each, and depart every Friday at 10:30pm, 12:30am, and 2:30am; Saturday at 9:30pm, 11:30am, 1am, and 2:30am; and every Sunday at 7:30, 9:30, and 11:30pm.  You can get onboard about an hour before departure, shaking your booty to Latino music as the boat sits in port, music blaring, waiting for other clients.  Cruises cost $14 per person (tax included), with children's rates $7 and seniors $10.  There's a cash bar on board selling beer for between $4 and $6 each, depending on the brand.  There's a sightseeing benefit to the experience as well: En route, as it chugs out to sea, participants garner sea-fronting views of both of San Juan's 18th-century forts and the coastline of Isla Verde.  For reservations and more information, call   787/375-5211, 263-2962, or 525-1288. 

Casinos

Many visitors come to Puerto Rico on package deals and stay at one of the posh hotels at the Condado or Isla Verde just to gamble. 

Nearly all the large hotels in San Juan, Condado, and Isla Verde offer casinos, and there are other large casinos at some of the bigger resorts outside the metropolitan area.  The atmosphere in the casinos is casual, but you still shouldn't show up in bathing suits or shorts.  Most of the casinos open around noon and close between 2 and 4am.  Guest patrons must be at least 18 years old to enter. 

The 18,503-square-foot (1,719-sq.-m) Ritz-Carlton Casino, Avenue of Governors, Isla Verde (  787/253-1700), combines the elegant decor of the 1940s with tropical fabrics and patterns.  It features traditional games such as blackjack, roulette, baccarat, craps, and slot machines.  In Old San Juan, you'll have to try your luck at the Old San Juan Hotel & Casino, Calle Brumbaugh 100 (  787/721-5100), where five-card stud competes with some 240 slot machines and roulette tables.  There's a stately gaming parlor just off the lobby at the El San Juan Hotel & Casino (one of the most grand), Av.  Isla Verde 6063 (  787/791-1000); and the Condado Plaza Hotel & Casino, Av.  Ashford 999 (  787/721-1000), remains one of the city's busiest and most exciting casinos.  La Concha's (  787/721-7500) Casino del Mar is right off the hotel's jamming lobby, and it's in keeping with its vanguard mix of high-tech and sleek design. 
Chapter 6: Near San Juan

Within easy reach of San Juan's cosmopolitan bustle are superb attractions and natural wonders.  With San Juan as your base, you can explore the island by day and return in time for a final dip before dinner and an evening on the town.  In fact, travelers looking to have an extended vacation in Puerto Rico may consider cutting back on hotel expenses by renting a furnished condo on one of San Juan's beaches or a high-ceilinged historic rooftop apartment in the Old City.  San Juan, with its historic sites, gorgeous beaches, and vibrant cultural activities and nightlife can easily keep you occupied for 2 weeks or more.  But the lure of a long-term rental in the city increases exponentially when you realize how many beautiful places there are to see and how many great things there are to do within a leisurely day trip. 

Conversely, travelers looking for the ultimate Caribbean vacation experience, but who also appreciate San Juan's cosmopolitan charms, will find some of Puerto Rico's best resorts within an hour's drive of San Juan.  In Río Grande, there's the Río Mar Beach Resort and Spa, a Wyndham Grand Resort, and the Gran Mélia Golf Resort & Villas. 

To the west, there are two vacation and golf clubs operating out of the grand old facilities of the former Hyatt resorts on a breathtaking oceanfront coconut plantation.  Plans are underway to develop two new ultraluxury resorts on the property.  Another fine option is the Embassy Suites Dorado Del Mar Beach & Golf Resort.  Its stunning setting and facilities (including a Chi Chi Rodriguez golf course) live up to its resort billing. 

Also, road improvements have cut the travel time from San Juan to other destinations and resorts covered in subsequent chapters.  For example, you can get from San Juan to Fajardo and its mammoth El Conquistador Resort & Golden Door Spa in 45 minutes.  Even the sprawling Palmas del Mar vacation community, with hotels, luxury villas, and vacation homes, approaches the 1-hour day trip test.  While it's halfway down Puerto Rico's East Coast, it's accessible through two major highways.  And Ponce is now a 90-minute drive, making it possible to visit the city in the morning, hit the beach in Guánica for 3 hours, and return to San Juan in the early evening. 

Many of Puerto Rico's must-see sites lie much closer to San Juan, however.  A bit more than an hour west of San Juan is the world's largest radar/radio-telescope, Arecibo Observatory.  After touring this awesome facility, you can travel west to nearby Río Camuy Cave Park, for a good look at marvels below ground.  Here you can plunge deep into the subterranean beauty of a spectacular cave system carved over eons by one of the world's largest underground rivers.  The caves are part of a wider natural wonderland known as Karst Country, which you can also further explore, as well as an adjacent section of the central mountains laced with beautiful lakes. 

Just 35 miles (56km) east of San Juan is El Yunque National Forest, the only tropical rainforest in the U.S. National Park System.  Named by the Spanish for its anvil-shaped peak, El Yunque receives more than 100 billion gallons of rainfall annually.  If you have time for only one side trip, this is the one to take.  Waterfalls, wild orchids, giant ferns, towering tabonuco trees, and sierra palms make El Yunque a photographer's and hiker's paradise.  Pick up a map and choose from dozens of trails graded by difficulty, including El Yunque's most challenging—the 6-mile (9.7km) El Toro Trail to the peak.  The best one is probably the hike to La Mina Falls, a 45-minute walk through plush jungle, with interpretative nature signs explaining the foliage along the way.  The trail ends at a beautiful spot where waterfalls crash into a wondrous natural pool in the mountain stream below.  At El Yunque is El Portal Tropical Center, with 10,000 square feet (929 sq.  m) of exhibit space, plazas, and patios.  This facility greatly expands the recreational and educational programs available to visitors.  La Coca Falls and an observation tower are just off Rte.  191. 

Visitors can combine a morning trip to El Yunque with an afternoon of swimming and sunning on tranquil Luquillo Beach.  Soft white sand, shaded by coconut palms and the blue sea, makes this Puerto Rico's best and best-known beach.  Plan on having lunch, sampling local delicacies at a group of food kiosks right beside the public beach. 

Fajardo, and its beautiful Caribbean coast, is about 15 minutes farther east.  As noted previously, sailing and snorkeling trips off Fajardo are an easy day trip from San Juan through one of the luxury catamaran outfits that include transportation to and from San Juan area hotels (see chapter 6).  Or you could visit undeveloped stretches of Fajardo beachfront, around Las Cabezas de San Juan nature reserve and Seven Seas public beach, on your own (see chapter 10). 

Many visitors overlook trips to San Juan suburbs in the capital's backyard.  Bayamón has a great science park and zoo, Guyanabo has an interesting sports museum, and Caguas a sprawling skate park and entertainment complex, and a botanical and cultural garden. 

Central mountain towns, such as Cayey and Aibonito, are also accessible by day trip from the capital.  Having a lunch of roast pork and other Puerto Rican delicacies and breathing in the clean mountain air is reason enough for a drive from the capital.  A favorite spot is Guavate, a 45-minute drive south, where open-air barbecue restaurants are lined along a country road with a mountain stream of the Carite Forest as a backdrop. 

Attractions Near San Juan

El Yunque ★★★

25 miles (40km) E of San Juan

The El Yunque rainforest, a 45-minute drive east of San Juan, is a major attraction in Puerto Rico.  The El Yunque National Forest is the only tropical forest in the U.S. National Forest Service system.  The 28,000-acre (11,331-hectare) preserve was given its status by President Theodore Roosevelt.  Today the virgin forest remains much as it was in 1493, when Columbus first sighted Puerto Rico.  Visit during the week, if possible, because weekends can be very crowded along popular trails and natural attractions. 

Getting There

From San Juan, take Rte.  26 or the Baldorioty de Castro Expressway east to Carolina, where you will pick up Rte.  66 or the Roberto Sánchez Vilella Expressway.  The $1.50 toll road will take you farther along Rte.  3, putting you in Canóvanas.  Go right, east, on Rte.  3, which you follow east to the intersection of Rte.  191, a two-lane highway that heads south into the forest.  Take 191 for 3 miles (4.8km), going through the village of Palmer.  As the road rises, you will have entered the Caribbean National Forest.  You can stop in at the El Portal Tropical Forest Center to pick up information (see below). 

Visitor Information

El Portal Tropical Forest Center, Rte.  191, Río Grande (  787/888-1880), an $18-million exhibition and information center, has 10,000 square feet (929 sq.  m) of exhibition space.  Three pavilions offer exhibits and bilingual displays.  The actor Jimmy Smits narrates a documentary called "Understanding the Forest."  The center is open daily from 9am to 5pm; it charges an admission of $3 for adults and $1.50 for children under 12. 

El Yunque is the most popular spot in Puerto Rico for hiking; for a description of our favorite trails, see "Hiking Trails."  Hikers will find useful information at any of the park's visitor information centers or at the El Yunque Catalina Field Office, near the village of Palmer, beside the main highway at the forest's northern edge (  787/888-1880).  The staff can provide material about hiking routes, and, with 10 days' notice, help you plan overnight tours in the forest.  One-hour tours are given subject to staff availability from 10:30am to 3:30pm; they cost $5 for adults and $3 for children 12 and under.  Group tours are available, but reservations must be arranged in advance. 

Exploring El Yunque

Encompassing four distinct forest types, El Yunque is home to 240 species of tropical trees, flowers, and wildlife.  More than 20 kinds of orchids and 50 varieties of ferns share this diverse habitat with millions of tiny tree frogs, whose distinctive cry of coquí (pronounced "ko-kee") has given them their name.  Tropical birds include the lively, greenish blue, red-fronted Puerto Rican parrot, once nearly extinct and now making a comeback.  Other rare animals include the Puerto Rican boa, which grows to 7 feet (2.1m). ( It is highly unlikely that you will encounter a boa.  The few people who have are still shouting about it.) 

El Yunque is the best of Puerto Rico's 20 forest preserves.  The forest is situated high above sea level, with El Toro its highest peak.  You can be fairly sure you'll be showered upon during your visit, as more than 100 billion gallons of rain fall here annually.  However, the showers are brief, and there are many shelters.  On a quickie tour, many visitors reserve only a half-day for El Yunque.  But we think it's unique and deserves at least a daylong outing. 

Hiking Trails The best hiking trails in El Yunque have been carefully marked by the forest rangers.  Our favorite, which takes 2 hours for the round-trip jaunt, is called La Mina & Big Tree Trail, and it is actually two trails combined.  The La Mina Trail is paved and signposted.  It begins at the picnic center adjacent to the visitor center and runs parallel to La Mina River.  It is named for gold once discovered on the site.  At La Mina Falls, there is a great waterfall and natural pool where you should take a dip.  The mountain stream seems freezing at first, but becomes absolutely refreshing nearly instantaneously.  Beyond the falls, the Big Tree Trail begins (also signposted).  It winds a route through the towering trees of Tabonuco Forest until it approaches Rte.  191.  Along the trail you might spot such native birds as the Puerto Rican woodpecker, the tanager, the screech owl, and the bullfinch. 

Those with more time might opt for the El Yunque Trail, which takes 4 hours round-trip to traverse.  This trail—signposted from El Caimitillo Picnic Grounds—takes you on a steep, winding path.  Along the way you pass natural forests of sierra palm and palo colorado before descending into the dwarf forest of Mount Britton, which is often shrouded in clouds.  Your major goal, at least for panoramic views, will be the lookout peaks of Roca Marcas, Yunque Rock, and Los Picachos.  On a bright, clear day, you can see all the way to the eastern shores of the Atlantic. 

Driving Through El Yunque If you're not a hiker but you appreciate rainforests, you can still enjoy El Yunque.  You can drive through the forest on Rte.  191, which is a tarmac road.  This trail goes from the main highway of Rte.  3, penetrating deep into El Yunque.  You can see ferns that grow some 120 feet (37m) tall, and, at any minute, you might expect a hungry dinosaur to peek between the fronds, looking for a snack.  You're also treated to lookout towers offering panoramic views, waterfalls, picnic areas, and even a restaurant. 

Where to Stay

Ceiba Country Inn If you're looking for an escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, this is the place for you.  This small, well-maintained bed-and-breakfast is located on the easternmost part of Puerto Rico (you must rent a car to reach this little haven in the mountains).  El Yunque is only 15 miles (24km) away, and San Juan is 40 miles (64km) to the west.  The rooms are on the bottom floor of a large, old family home, and each has a private shower-only bathroom.  They are decorated in a tropical motif.  There's a bar with a television, free Wi-Fi in the lounge and Spanish patio, and a library. 

Rd.  no.  977, Km 1.2 (P.O. Box 1067), Ceiba, PR 00735.    888/560-2816 or 787/885-0471.  Fax 787/885-0475.  9 units (all shower only).  $93–$105 double.  Rate includes breakfast.  AE, DISC, MC, V. Free parking.  Amenities: Bar (guests only); patio for outdoor entertainment.  In room: A/C, fridge, ceiling fan. 

El Yunque Rainforest Inn   The Inn serves healthy breakfasts, has a great library with books and movies, a Wi-Fi connection, and house computer.  Most importantly, you'll get to breathe in fresh air and really relax.  The Lost Machete Trail is a challenging hike through the Inn's 5-acre rainforest plot, descending down along a jungle stream to a beautiful waterfall.  This is private property in the midst of the federal rainforest reserve, so you will likely encounter very few people, if anyone at all.  There are also massage and other spa services.  El Yunque Caribbean National Forest surrounds the property, so you are at a perfect vantage point to explore.  There are only three lodging options.  The Chalet is a two-bedroom suite; the Villa has an elegant lodge feel (complete with a fireplace) and is the nicer of the offerings for couples.  There is also a villa that sleeps four and up and has a pool.  Upon reserving, you'll get specific directions e-mailed to you, but from Hwy.  3, take the exit for Rte.  956, which is before the Palmer exit that you take for the forest reserve.  Follow signs for Galateo.  Turn right on Rd.  no.  186.  The inn is on your right. 

Rd.  no.  186 (P.O. Box 2087), Río Grande, PR 00745.  www.rainforestinn.com.    800/672-4992 or 787/378-6190.  Fax 787/885-0471.  3 villas.  High season $150–$475, low season $145–$425 depending on villa.  Rate includes breakfast.  AE, DISC, MC, V. Free parking.  Amenities: Bar (guests only); patio for outdoor entertainment.  In room: A/C, fridge, ceiling fan. 

Luquillo Beach ★★★

31 miles (50km) E of San Juan

Luquillo Beach is the island's best and most popular public stretch of sand.  From here, you can easily explore El Yunque rainforest (see above). " Luquillo" is a Spanish adaptation of Yukiyu, the god believed by the Taínos to inhabit El Yunque. 

Getting There

If you are driving from San Juan, take Rte.  26 or the Baldorioty de Castro Expressway east to Carolina, where you will pick up Rte.  66 or the Roberto Sánchez Vilella Expressway.  The $1.50 toll road will take you farther along Rte.  3, putting you in Canóvanas.  Go right, east, on Rte.  3 into Río Grande.  The entrance to El Yunque is on the right, and just beyond is the left turn to the Wyndham.  The Gran Melía Puerto Rico is also off Hwy.  3. 

A hotel limousine (  787/888-6000) from the San Juan airport costs $225 per carload to the Wyndham Río Mar Beach Resort and Spa.  A taxi costs approximately $70.  Hotel buses make trips to and from the San Juan airport, based on the arrival times of incoming flights; the cost is $28 per person, each way, for transport to El Conquistador; $25 per person, each way, to the Wyndham. 

Hitting the Beach

Luquillo Beach ★★, Puerto Rico's finest beach, is palm-dotted and crescent-shaped, opening onto a lagoon with calm waters and a wide, sandy bank.  It's very crowded on weekends but much better during the week.  There are lockers, tent sites, showers, picnic tables, and food stands that sell a sampling of the island's frituras (fried fare), especially cod fritters and tacos.  The beach is open from 8:30am to 5pm, Wednesday through Sunday, plus holidays. 

You can also snorkel and scuba dive (see below) among the living reefs with lots of tropical fish.  Offshore are coral formations and spectacular sea life—eels, octopuses, stingrays, tarpon, big puffer fish, turtles, nurse sharks, and squid, among other sea creatures. 

Great Golf

The Río Grande–Fajardo area has become the golf hot spot in Puerto Rico, which itself is known as the Ireland of the Caribbean because of the number and quality of its greens.  Tom Kite and Bruce Besse designed two 18-hole courses for the Trump International Golf Club Puerto Rico, 100 Clubhouse Dr., Río Grande 00745 (  787/657-2000), adjacent to the well-recommended Gran Melía Puerto Rico (see below).  You face a spectacular vista of fairways, lakes, and the Atlantic beyond, with two courses with their own character, which fan out from the Caribbean's largest clubhouse, which has been redone in the regal style of the Trump name.  Luxury vacation villas, condominiums, and a beach club are being developed by Trump and his local partner Arturo Díaz. 

The St. Regis Bahia Beach Plantation Resort and Golf Club, Rte.  187, Km 4.2 (  787/857-5800), with greens fees weekdays at $225 and weekends at $275, was given a renovation by Robert Trent Jones, Jr. The breathtaking 7,014-yard course, sprawling across some 480 acres (194 hectares) of lush beachfront, runs from the tip of Loiza River to the mouth of the Espíritu Santo River, overlooking a verdant green valley of El Yunque rainforest.  The golf gets high marks, and the new luxury St. Regis resort only makes this spot all the better.  Jones' father, Robert Trent Jones, Sr.,  designed the legendary Dorado Beach East golf course, and brother Rees Jones undertook the Palmas del Mar's Flamboyán course in 1999. 

The Wyndham's Río Mar Beach Resort (see below) has two world-class courses that stretch out in the shadow of El Yunque rainforest along a dazzling stretch of coast.  The entire 6,782 yards of Tom and George Fazio's Ocean Course has seaside panoramas and breezes, and fat iguanas scampering through the lush grounds.  The other course, a 6,945-yard design by golf pro Greg Norman, follows the flow of the Mameyes River through mountain and coastal vistas.  Greens fees are $165 for guests, $200 for nonresident walk-ons.  El Conquistador's golf offerings in nearby Fajardo are also well regarded (see chapter 9). 

Watersports

Watersports kiosks at both the Wyndham Rio Mar Beach Resort and the Gran Melía Puerto Rico resorts have everything from Hobie Cats ($100 per hour) to sea kayaks ($10 per hour) for rent.  Both properties have lots of beach and watersports activities on site, but your best bet for scuba diving and snorkeling is to head farther east to Fajardo for a scuba trip or a day-sailing and snorkeling adventure.  Dragonfly Adventures (  787/649-8040 at Gran Melía and 787/637-8600 at Rio Mar) arranges tours from either property to make it easy.  There's a kayak eco-adventure, day-long snorkeling trip with picnic lunch and a sailing trip to Culebra on offer.  Sea Ventures Dive Centers (  800/739-3483 or 787/863-3483) at Fajardo's Puerto del Rey Marina is among the best bets for scuba diving.  A two-tank discover dive package costs $150, while a two-tank dive for certified divers is $119 (both rates include gear). 

Sports & Adventure

Hacienda Carabalí, Rd.  no.  992, Km 4, Luquillo (  787/889-5820 or 889-4954), is a 600-acre (243-hectare) ranch in the foothills of El Yunque rainforest that gives horseback riding, mountain biking, and all terrain vehicle tours on trails running through the rainforest, along river banks, and the ocean coast.  There's also a go-kart track and restaurant with entertainment.  A 2-hour horseback-riding tour costs $60 per person; the ATV tours are $75 for the driver and $45 for the passenger, while bicycle rentals are $40 per person.  The go-kart track costs $7 for a short ride ticket.  Soar through the rainforest with the folks from Yunque Zipline Adventure (  787/242-3368), a fabulous, fun 3-hour tour costing $65 per person.  The course is beautiful and includes the island's longest zip-line at 850 feet (259 m).  The tour also involves rappelling, so a moderate degree of physical fitness is required.  There is a morning tour (leaving at 9am) and an afternoon tour (leaving at 2pm). 

Where to Stay

Gran Melía Puerto Rico ★★★   This pocket of posh on the Miquillo de Río Grande peninsula is an all-suite luxury resort spread across 40 acres (16 hectares) of lush gardens and tropical forest and a mile of white-sand coastline.  From watersports to two 18-hole golf courses, the resort has everything on-site, including whirlpool baths and massage tables.  Spa treatments revitalize and rejuvenate.  You can also wander the globe in the widely varied restaurants, ranging from Italian to Southeast Asian. 

Signature suites are divided among 20 elegant two-story bungalows.  Rich mahogany pieces and elegant fabrics are used throughout.  If you can afford it, opt for a Royal Service Suite; some even have a private Jacuzzi facing the Atlantic.  The marble bathrooms are sumptuous. 

There's a lot to do here.  The world-class golf courses are adjacent to the property at the Trump International Golf Club Puerto Rico, there's a full-service spa, a slew of watersports possibilities, and a Kids Club that will keep your young ones happy and busy.  The staff is great at organizing water polo and beach volleyball games, and you can take salsa and merengue dancing lessons by the pool.  It's a big reason why this resort is a cut above some competitors, and why you will have so much fun here. 

Coco Beach Blvd.  1000, Río Grande, PR 00745.  www.grand-melia-puerto-rico.com.    866/436-3542 or 787/809-1770.  Fax 787/809-1785.  582 units.  High season $278 double, $403–$466 suite, $1,663 oceanfront villa; off-season $194 double, $248–$327 suite, $1,164 oceanfront villa.  $16 per person resort fee.  AE, DISC, MC, V. Parking $16 daily.  Amenities: 6 restaurants; 3 bars; babysitting; fitness center; 2 golf courses; gym; kids' clubs; 2 outdoor pools; room service; spa; sauna; 3 lit tennis courts; smoke-free rooms; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, kitchenette, minibar, hair dryer. 

The Río Mar Beach Resort & Spa, a Wyndham Grand Resort ★ This is a great spot to have fun in the sun and relax, but if you're expecting roaring nightlife or a cultural experience, stay elsewhere.  The resort lies between the El Yunque rainforest and the Atlantic coastline.  One of its championship golf courses, designed by George and Tom Fazio, crisscrosses the dramatic coastline, while the other, by Greg Norman, winds through lush tropical forest.  Watersports offerings include sailing, snorkeling, scuba, parasailing, windsurfing, kite boarding, and others.  There are also other sports activities, such as volleyball and water polo, and lots for children to do, including the Iguana Club for kids and a game room.  There's a kids' pool next to the adult pool, which are both right near the beach.  And you can actually fulfill a Caribbean dream and go horseback riding through the rainforest and along the beach. ( We highly recommend this.) 

Landscaping includes several artificial lakes situated amid tropical gardens.  Guest rooms overlook either the palm-lined Atlantic or the green mountains of the rainforest.  The style is Spanish hacienda with nods to the surrounding jungle; unusual art and sculpture alternate with dark woods, deep colors, rounded archways, big windows, and tile floors.  In the bedrooms, muted earth tones and natural woods add to the ambience.  Bedrooms are spacious, with balconies or terraces, and good mattresses, plus tub/shower combinations in the large bathrooms. 

The resort has ample meeting space, and the number of conventions held here is cause for complaint for some visitors.  There's not much going on at night except the lobby bar and the hotel's 6,500-square-foot (604-sq.-m) casino.  The restaurants include Italian, Latin American, Asian, steak, and seafood for fine-dining choices, and three different cafes.  We especially like Palío, but it's on the expensive side, which is the case with most of the resort restaurants. 

Río Mar Blvd.  6000, Río Grande, PR 00745.  www.wyndhamriomar.com.    877/636-0636 or 787/888-6000.  Fax 787/888-6600.  600 units.  High season $269–$329 double, off-season $205–$265 double.  Resort fee 11%.  Children ages 5–17 staying in parent's room $85, including meals and activities; free for 4 and under.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. 19 miles east of Luís Muñoz Marín International Airport, with entrance off Puerto Rico Hwy.  3.Valet $20; self-parking $15.  Amenities: 8 restaurants; 4 bars; casino; children's programs; deep-sea fishing; health club & spa; horseback riding nearby; outdoor pool; room service; sailing; 13 tennis courts; smoke-free rooms; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, high-speed Internet access. 

St Regis Bahía Beach ★★★   This spectacular resort improved Puerto Rico's standing by a lot in the luxury game when it opened, the first of a series of five-star properties being developed on the island.  An intoxicating mix of old-world, luxury elegance and natural beauty, the plantation-style property sits on 483 acres (195 hectares) of former coconut plantation and native maritime forest, which is filled with lakes and gardens and runs along an undeveloped coastline.  Hundred-foot- (30m) tall palm trees tower overhead, and seagrape, flamboyan, and almond trees flourish here.  This is a best practices hotel from both the upscale service and eco-friendly perspectives, and it delivers on both.  You can partake both in the afternoon iced tea ritual and the nightly champagne sabering (a classic St Regis ritual where a saber is used to uncork the champagne), or get pampered with butler service.  The resort, the first Certified Gold Audubon Signature Sanctuary in the Caribbean, arranges for conservation activities involving the endangered sea turtles, which nest on the beaches fronting the resort (which has a larger-than-normal coastal setback out of respect for the nesting grounds).  There's a gorgeous collection of mostly local paintings and other artwork hanging throughout the property, including Arnaldo Roche Rabell's masterful vision of the birth of Loiza and Rio Grande that hangs above the St. Regis Bar.  Service is warm and genuine and pretty efficient as well.  You can also ride bicycles or jog along resort pathways, and resident guides give nature and wildlife hikes.  A boat house and watersports kiosk provide paddleboards, kayaks, and small sailing boats for use in the lakes and river canals, and you can also fish along them.  The gorgeous freeform pool area is great for the whole family, and the Reméde Spa unfolds in separate massage villas along a peaceful lagoon and fire garden, offering a full array of pampering options from mud baths to full body massages.  The setup, which is perfect for couples as well, also includes saunas and plunge pools.  The beauty treatments are tailored from indigenous and cultural influences and use native ingredients like coconut and sugar cane.  There's an adjacent 1,000-square-foot (93 sq-meter) health club with cardio-exercise and strength-training machines and a separate yoga and pilates studio.  Kids will love S'mores and Stories, at an outdoor fireplace, and the Iguana Club.  Even basic rooms, with foyers, private terraces, and huge marble bathrooms with oversized tubs and mirrors that double as flatscreen TVs, feel like elegant villas, not just rooms.  From the cherry wood furnishings to the Egyptian-cotton linens to the state-of-the-art entertainment technology, the eye for detail is impressive.  The Robert Trent Jones, Jr. golf course is as challenging as it is beautiful, and there are tennis facilities, with lessons at $100 per hour. 

Rte.  187, Km.  4.2, Rio Grande, PR 00745.  www.bahiabeachpuertorico.com.    787/809-8000.  Fax 787/809-8025.  139 units.  Double: high season $1,000–1,150 double, $1,550–$2,000 suite, $3,500 Governor's Suite; off-season $700–$850 double, $1,100–$1,500 suite, $2,600 Governor's Suite.  $60 resort fee.  AE, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking only $22 guests, $28 nonguests daily.  Amenities: 3 restaurants; 3 bars; butler service; fitness center; golf course; kids' clubs; outdoor pool; room service; sauna; spa; 2 lit tennis courts, smoke-free rooms; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, kitchenette, minibar, Wi-Fi (free). 

Where to Eat

Brass Cactus   AMERICAN/REGIONAL On a service road adjacent to Rte.  3 at the western edge of Luquillo, within a boxy-looking concrete building that's in need of repair, is one of the town's most popular bar/restaurants.  Permeated with a raunchy, no-holds-barred spirit, this amiable spot has thrived since the early 1990s, when it was established by an Illinois-born bartender who outfitted the interior with gringo memorabilia.  It's a great American-style pub, where you can hear rock 'n' roll or catch a game on television.  Menu items include king crab salad; tricolor tortellini laced with chicken and shrimp; several kinds of sandwiches, burgers, and wraps; and platters of churrasco, T-bone steaks, chicken with tequila sauce, barbecued pork, and fried mahimahi.  We love the barbecue here, especially the ribs in Jack Daniels sauce.  Portions are large. 

In the Condominio Complejo Turistico, Rte.  3, Marginal.    787/889-5735.  Sandwiches, burgers $6.95–$8.95; main courses $15–$29.  MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–midnight; Fri–Sat 11am–2am. 

Fern ★ INTERNATIONAL Like other celebrity chefs, Jean Georges Vongerichten weaves local flavors into his offerings at Fern, which also offers guests highlights from some of the chef's other international and U.S. menus.  Start out with Thai-steamed mussels or a black truffle and Fontina cheese pizza, and move on to the Parmesan-crusted, lemon-basil chicken, the veal Milanese in arugula and dried cranberries, or the baked cod in chili glaze with Swiss chard.  Try the six-course tasting menu with wine pairing.  Its sleek, natural wood interior is the perfect foil to the view of the coast from the interior and exterior dining areas.  Fern has a lively wine collection, and the bar experts craft tropical cocktails.  The Fern breakfast is an upscale version of the full diner breakfast (eggs, bacon, potatoes, toast, coffee, juice) with some fresh fruit salad thrown in. 

At the St. Regis Bahia Beach Resort, Rte.  187, Km.  4.2, Rio Grande, PR 00745.    787/809-8000.  Reservations required.  Main courses: breakfast $12–$28, dinner $18–$56.  AE, DISC, MC, V, DC.  7am–11:30am daily; Mon–Thurs 6–9pm; Fri–Sat 6–10pm; Sun brunch noon–4pm. 

Molasses AMERICAN/PUERTO RICAN The straightforward but tasty fare served from the Bahìa Beach golf clubhouse restaurant is enhanced by the gorgeous setting, a handsome dining room surrounded by lush mountains, rainforest, and dazzling coast.  For lunch, there are inventive takes on Puerto Rican classics like stuffed mofongo, arroz con pollo, and fried whole red snapper; inventive sandwiches like the calamari po' boy (with spicy mustard and tomatoes on focaccia); and a house pasta that will satisfy anyone.  The place doesn't exactly let its hair down at night either.  The dinner menu adds grilled steaks, lobster, and fresh fish to the mix, sticking closely to its country club roots, and a few other dishes like an osso buco and a pulled pork pastelon (a fried casserole with sweet plantains and yucca).  The setting and execution nonetheless charm.  An early Continental breakfast and other options are available in the lounge before tee-off. 

At the St. Regis Bahia Beach Resort, Rte.  187, Km.  4.2, Rio Grande, PR 00745.    787/809-8000.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $24–$42.  AE, MC, V. Wed–Sun 11:30am–5pm; Mon–Thurs 6–9pm; Fri–Sat 6–10pm. 

Palio ★ ITALIAN This intimate, elegant, richly decorated restaurant is the perfect setting for its classic Northern Italian fare, and the kitchen here cuts close to culinary tradition.  Everything here is satisfying: the butternut squash sage ravioli, the grilled lemon swordfish with capers, and the lamb loin, crusted with pesto and goat cheese and topped with roasted artichoke, zucchini, and tomatoes.  Get a good bottle of wine and start off slow with the house antipasto.  It's not over until the terrific tiramisu. 

In the Wyndham Rio Mar Beach Resort and Golf Club, 6000 Rio Mar Blvd, Rio Grande, PR 00745.    787/888-6000.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $22–$52.  AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 6am–11pm. 

Sandy's Seafood Restaurant & Steak House ★   SEAFOOD/STEAKS/PUERTO RICAN Huge platters of fresh, tasty seafood have made this nondescript, concrete-and-glass restaurant near the town square famous.  Set about a block from the main square of the seaside resort of Luquillo, it was founded in 1984 by Miguel Angel, aka Sandy.  Most platters, especially the daily specials, are huge.  They include fresh shellfish served on the half-shell, asopaos, four kinds of steak, five different preparations of chicken (including a tasty version with garlic sauce), four kinds of gumbos, paellas, a dozen preparations of lobster, and even jalapeño peppers stuffed with shrimp or lobster. 

Calle Fernandez García 276.    787/889-5765.  Main courses $8–$25; lunch special Mon–Fri 11am–2:30pm $5.  AE, MC, V. Wed–Mon 11am to btw.  9:30 and 11pm, depending on business. 

Dorado ★

18 miles (29km) W of San Juan

Dorado—the name itself evokes a kind of magic—is a small town with some big resorts, a world of storied luxury hotels and villas unfolding along Puerto Rico's north shore west of San Juan.  For decades, the Hyatt Cerromar and Dorado Beach formed the epicenter of this stunning coastal stretch of rolling palm groves and white-sand beaches.  Currently, vacation and golf clubs are operated on the former site, and there are plans to renovate the old resort buildings and reopen as a luxury resort. 

The site was originally purchased in 1905 by Dr. Alfred T. Livingston, a Jamestown, New York, physician, who developed it as a 1,000-acre (405-hectare) grapefruit-and-coconut plantation.  Dr. Livingston's daughter, Clara, widely known in aviation circles as a friend of Amelia Earhart, owned and operated the plantation after her father's death.  It was she who built the airstrip here.  In 1955, Clara Livingston sold her father's 1,700-acre (688-hectare) Hacienda Sardinera to the Rockefeller family.  Her former house, now called Su Casa, served as a golf clubhouse in the '70s and restaurant from 1982 to 2006, and remains on the property.  In 2006, 48 years after Laurence Rockefeller officially opened the hotel, the resorts that had made Dorado synonymous with upscale tourism closed their doors.  It brought an end to a legendary resort—with a list of clients including former presidents John F. Kennedy, Dwight Eisenhower, Gerald Ford, and George H. W. Bush, as well as athletic greats Joe Namath, Mickey Mantle, and Joe DiMaggio, and actresses Joan Crawford and Ava Gardner.  The golf and tennis courses are still functioning, and two upscale resorts are being developed on the beautiful site. 

Getting There

If you're driving from San Juan, take Expwy.  22 west.  Take Exit 22-A to get on Rte.  165 north to Dorado.  Alternately, you can take the meandering coastal route along Hwy.  2 west to Rte.  693 north to Dorado (trip time: 40 min.)  You'll pass a couple interesting beaches and coastal lookouts, as well as fine spots to eat. 

The Beaches

If you take this latter route, you'll want to detour down Rte.  870 in the Palo Seco area of Toa Alta.  This narrow road runs through the middle of a narrow peninsula famous for the restaurants serving seafood and Puerto Rican cuisine running along it.  At the end of the road is the Parque Nacional Isla de Cabra (Rte.  870, Toa Baja;   787/384-0542; Wed–Sun and holidays 8:30am–5pm; parking $3), a fascinating spit of land at the mouth of San Juan Bay that has an incredible view of the Old City.  The water here is not great for swimming, but there are play areas and green picnic areas with great views.  There are also small restaurants and bars, everywhere a great coastal view and the whole area with great breezes.  The area was a former leper colony built by the Spanish and then was a shooting range and training area for many decades for the police.  There is a small fort within the park called El Cañuelo that was built to protect the entrance of the Bayamón River and back up the much larger El Morro across the bay, by providing crossfire to invading ships.  This is a favorite picnic area for Sundays and a good spot to ride a bike or fly a kite. 

There are also a few fine bathing beaches along this route before getting to Dorado.  The best is probably Cerro Gordo public beach (Rte.  690, Vega Alta;   787/883-2730), along with the Manuel "Nolo" Morales public beach along Dorado's "Costa del Oro," or "Gold Coast" (  787/796-2830).  Both charge $3 per car parking fee and keep the same hours as other public beaches and parks, Wednesday through Sunday and holidays, 8:30am to 5pm. 

Where to Eat

El Vigia   PUERTO RICAN En route to Dorado from San Juan, stop by this down-to-earth restaurant with a great ocean view.  It's the first restaurant on the main road into Isla de Cabras, which is lined with similar establishments, so you can try your luck farther on as well.  Under new management, this unpretentious place serves great seafood and Puerto Rican cuisine.  On nice days, you can eat on a wooden deck with the waves crashing against the rocks below, and, if you go there on a weekend, you may be able to enjoy some live music and karaoke.  There are about 50 different items—plenty of seafood, steaks, and Puerto Rican food—on the menu.  You can't go wrong with the mofongo stuffed with stewed conch or shrimp, or the mixed seafood Puerto Rican stew, asopao.  There's also a delicious surf and turf, with a filet mignon and lobster tail.  We love the red snapper Creole style, which is in a light, sweet tomato sauce.  There are plenty of nonseafood dishes, a mix of Puerto Rican and American fare.  The house sangria is tasty and has a kick. 

Calle Manuel Enrique 130, entrance Isla de Cabras.    787/788-5000 or 405-1597.  Main courses $11–$40.  AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–9pm. 

Made in Puerto Rico PUERTO RICAN This recently-opened theme restaurant is a throwback to simpler times, when a home-cooked meal brought the entire family, and often a few stragglers, to the dinner table.  The restaurant evokes the Puerto Rico of yesteryear, complete with servers dressed in traditional costumes and old-time decorative elements.  The menu incorporates typical dishes from different parts of the island: fried fritters and turnovers from Piñones, stewed and fried chicken from Aibonito, mahimahi from Ponce, and pork chops from Yauco.  The restaurant is open every day for lunch and dinner.  On Sunday, there is a buffet-style lunch set up on the open terrace overlooking the Dorado valley, and off-the-menu dinner is served after 6pm. 

Made in Puerto Rico, Rte.  693, Km 8.5, Dorado.    787/626-6666.  Main courses $12–$20.  AE, MC, V. Tues–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11am–11pm; Sun 11am–9pm. 

Zafra Restaurant NEW WORLD CUISINE The recently remodeled restaurant features a main dining room and veranda overlooking the lush valley surrounding the Plantation Clubhouse and the mountains looming in the distance over perfectly manicured greens.  The restaurant boasts a new Caribbean menu that features the freshest seasonal ingredients infused with international flavors.  Appetizers include fresh ceviche, conch turnovers in sofrito sauce and salmon gravlax, while main-dish options list tuna on spinach in a tomato vinaigrette, lamb chops, or rib-eye prepared with different sauces to taste.  The upscale eatery is part of the Dorado Beach golf complex, and is a great spot for lunch on a drive out west for Sunday brunch, or for a good meal after a round of golf. 

Dorado Beach Resort & Club, 500 Plantation Dr., Ste.  1, Dorado, PR 00646.    787/626-1054 or 626-1031.  Main courses $19–$36.  AE, MC, V. Fri–Sun 7am–11am; daily 11am–5:30pm; Wed–Sun 6–10pm; bar service daily 11am–close. 

Where to Stay

Dorado's lodging options were severely limited when the two Hyatt properties shut their doors, but staying at the former Hyatt resort is still possible, and the Embassy Suites property is a unique, all-suites resort with great facilities. 

  World-Class golf at the Former Hyatt Dorado

The Hyatt Dorado Beach and Hyatt Cerromar hotels closed in 2006, but their world-class golf courses have remained open and a limited number of resort residences are available for rental at Plantation.  For December 2012, the newly constructed Ritz-Carlton Reserve Dorado Beach Hotel will be opening on the site of the old Hyatt Dorado Beach.  The resort's existing amenities are among the finest within any Caribbean resort destination: 3 miles of beaches; 72 holes of Robert Trent Jones, Sr.  golf courses; 11 miles of Rockefeller nature trails; the Watermill water park; the Dorado Beach Fitness, Wellness, and Tennis Center; and Zafra (in the golf clubhouse) and West Beach dining venues.  Additional amenities come online with the hotel opening in December 2012—Wind and Waves Center; Ambassadors of the Environment program from Jean Michel Cousteau; Spa Botanico; West Beach Club, and dining venues from Jose Andrés.  If golf is your game, Dorado Beach Resort has you covered.  The courses, designed by Robert Trent Jones, Sr.,  match the finest anywhere.  They are now operated by the Dorado Beach Resort & Club.  The two original courses, known as East and West, were carved out of a jungle and offer tight fairways bordered by trees and forests, with many ocean holes.  The East Course reopened in November 2011 after a renovation by the designer's son, Robert Trent Jones, Jr. The Sugarcane and Pineapple (Top 50 in Caribbean) courses feature wide fairways with well-bunkered greens and an assortment of water traps and tricky wind factors.  Each is a par-72 course.  The longest course is 7,047 yards.  The club also features a caddie program to help you get the most out of your game.  On the Pineapple and Sugarcane courses, regular greens fees are $139, the West course is closed for renovations and the East course is $250.  Courses are open daily from 7am until dusk.  Golf carts are included.  There are plenty of opportunities for a post-game meal in Dorado afterwards, including the onsite restaurant Zafra (  787/626-1054).  Tip: Ask about rates for game play that starts after 1:30pm, which is sometimes marked down significantly. 

Embassy Suites Dorado del Mar Beach & Golf Resort ★ This beachfront property in Dorado lies less than 2 miles (3.2km) from the center of Dorado and within easy access from the San Juan airport.  It is the only all-suites resort in Puerto Rico, and it has been a success since its opening.  The property offers two-room suites with balconies and 38 two-bedroom condos. 

The suites are spread over seven floors, each spacious and furnished in a Caribbean tropical motif, with artwork and one king-size bed or two double beds.  Most of them have ocean views.  Each condo has a living room, kitchen, whirlpool, and balcony. 

Although the accommodations are suites or condos, one bedroom in a condo can be rented as a double room (the rest of the condo is shut off).  Likewise, it's also possible for two people to rent one bedroom in a condo, with the living room and kitchen facilities available (the other bedroom is closed off).  Because condos contain two bedrooms, most of them are rented to parties of four. 

The hotel attracts many families because of its very spacious accommodations.  It also attracts golfers because of its signature Chi Chi Rodriguez par-72, 18-hole golf course set against a panoramic backdrop of mountains and ocean.  The property is also a draw for those wanting to gamble a few bucks at the Oasis Casino, which recently got a $450,000 upgrade, with new machines and tables. 

Dorado del Mar Blvd.  210, Dorado, PR 00646.  www.embassysuitesdorado.com.  dorpr_ds@hilton.com.    787/796-6125.  Fax 787/796-6145.  174 units.  $170–$250 suite; $260–$485 1-bedroom condo; $360–$560 2-bedroom condo.  A 12% resort fee is applicable to the quoted rates.  High-speed Internet access, all local calls, 1-800 calls, incoming/outgoing faxes, B&W copies, and 1 hour of tennis, among other offers subject to availability.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $19; self-parking $11.  Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar & grill; fitness center; golf; pool; massage; room service; tennis court; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, kitchenette, wet bar. 

Arecibo & Camuy ★

68 to 77 miles (109–124km) W of San Juan

Getting There

Arecibo Observatory lies a 1 1/4-hour drive west of San Juan, outside the town of Arecibo.  From San Juan, head west along four-lane Rte.  22 until you reach the town of Arecibo.  At Arecibo, head south on Rte.  10; the 20-mile (32km) drive south on this four-lane highway is almost as interesting as the observatory itself.  From Rte.  10, take Exit 75-B and follow the signposts along a roller-coaster journey on narrow two-lane roads.  First you will go right on Rte.  652 and take a left on Rte.  651.  Proceed straight through the intersection of Rte.  651 and Rte.  635, and then turn left at the cemetery onto Rte.  625, which will lead you to the entrance of the observatory. 

On the same day you visit the Arecibo Observatory, you can also visit the Río Camuy Cave Park.  The caves also lie south of the town of Arecibo.  Follow Rte.  129 southwest from Arecibo to the entrance of the caves, which are at Km 18.9 along the route, north of the town of Lares.  Like the observatory, the caves lie approximately 1 1/2 hours west of San Juan. 

Exploring the Area

To get to the Observatorio de Arecibo, take Expwy.  22 heading east.  Take Rte.  129 south toward Utuado.  Go left on Calle 1 and take a right on Rte.  651.  At Rte.  635, take a left, and then go left on Rte.  625, which you will follow to the entrance of the observatory. 

Dubbed "an ear to heaven," Observatorio de Arecibo ★★ (www.naic.edu;   787/878-2612) contains the world's largest and most sensitive radar/radio-telescope.  The telescope features a 20-acre (8-hectare) dish, or radio mirror, set in an ancient sinkhole.  It's 1,000 feet (305m) in diameter and 167 feet (51m) deep, and it allows scientists to monitor natural radio emissions from distant galaxies, pulsars, and quasars, and to examine the ionosphere, the planets, and the moon using powerful radar signals.  Used by scientists as part of the Search for Extraterrestrial Intelligence (SETI), this is the same site featured in the movie Contact with Jodie Foster.  This research effort speculates that advanced civilizations elsewhere in the universe might also communicate via radio waves.  The 10-year, $100-million search for life in space was launched on October 12, 1992, the 500-year anniversary of Columbus's arrival on the shores of the New World. 

Unusually lush vegetation flourishes under the giant dish, including ferns, wild orchids, and begonias.  Assorted creatures, such as mongooses, lizards, and dragonflies, have also taken refuge there.  Suspended in an outlandish fashion above the dish is a 600-ton (544,311kg) platform that resembles a space station.  This is not a site where you'll be launched into a Star Wars journey through the universe.  You are allowed to walk around the platform, taking in views of this gigantic dish.  At the Angel Ramos Foundation Visitor Center, you are treated to interactive exhibitions on the various planetary systems and introduced to the mystery of meteors and educated about intriguing weather phenomena.  The observatory is about to undergo a significant facelift through the construction of a hotel and planetarium to the tune of $50 million.  The work is not expected to interrupt visitor traffic to the facility. 

Visiting hours depend on the season: From January 16 through May 31 and August 1 through December 14, the facility is open to the public on Wednesday, Sunday, and holidays, 9am to 4pm, and is closed Monday and Tuesday.  During the summer season (June–July) the observatory is open Monday through Sunday, 9am to 4pm.  The winter season schedule (Dec 15–Jan 15) is Monday through Sunday, 9am to 4pm.  There's a souvenir shop on the grounds.  Plan to spend about 1 1/2 hours at the observatory (Rte.  625 final, Arecibo; www.naic.edu;   787/878-2612; admission $10 adults, $6 seniors and children). 

Parque de las Cavernas del Río Camuy (Río Camuy Caves) ★★ (  787/898-3100) contains the third-largest underground river in the world.  It runs through a network of caves, canyons, and sinkholes that have been cut through the island's limestone base over the course of millions of years.  Known to the pre-Columbian Taíno peoples, the caves came to the attention of speleologists in the 1950s; they were led to the site by local boys already familiar with some of the entrances to the system.  The caves were opened to the public in 1986.  You need at least 2 hours for an adequate experience, but the more adventurous can take full-day tours exploring a part of the mysterious world with private tour operators. 

Today, visitors explore most sites via the park trolley: a 200-foot-deep (61m) sinkhole, a chasm containing a tropical forest, complete with birds and butterflies and a huge water fall, and the entrance of Cueva Clara, the park's premiere cave, a 45-minute odyssey through a fascinating underworld of stalactites and sculpted cavern walls.  Tres Pueblos Sinkhole is 65 feet (20m) wide and 400 feet (122 m) deep; it's named for its location at the border of the towns of Camuy, Hatillo, and Lares (north at Km 2 on Rte.  129, from Rte.  111;   787/898-3100; Wed–Sun and holidays 8am–5pm; admission $15 adults, $10 children 4–12; parking $3–$4, depending on vehicle). 

Back down in Arecibo, a fun and interesting stop, especially if you are traveling with children, is the Arecibo Lighthouse & Historic Park (Hwy.  655, El Muelle, Barrio Islote, Arecibo; www.arecibolighthouse.com;   787/880-7540).  Housed in a lighthouse built by the Spanish in 1898, this "cultural theme park" takes visitors on a history tour of Puerto Rico.  But it's a very tactile tour, where you can actually walk through many of the exhibits.  It really interests kids; it definitely found the kid in us!  The slave quarters were riveting, the mammoth pirate ship was thrilling, and then there was the pirate's cave, with its alligators and sharks.  Bring sun block, hats, and comfortable shoes and clothes.  Tickets are $10 adults, and $8 children and seniors.  The park is open 9am to 6pm weekdays and holidays, and 10am to 7pm on weekends.  Parking costs $2. 

Another unique place to visit while in Arecibo is the island's last remaining drive-in movie theater.  About an hour's drive from San Juan, the Auto Cine Santana (Exit 63 toward Rte.  2, left on Rte.  662;   787/881-7869), is a family-owned business that has been keeping alive the tradition of watching movies under the stars since 1957.  For just $2 per person, it is a great alternative for a night out.  Snack bar selections go beyond your typical popcorn, candy, and soda to include alcapurrias and fried turnovers, and a variety of fresh fruit juices.  The featured films aren't usually blockbusters and are often dubbed in Spanish with English subtitles.  The movie schedule is Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, at 8pm; Saturday and Sunday at 7:30 and 9:30pm. 

Where to Eat

If you want to eat before heading back to the city, Arecibo is a good place, with several fine restaurants.  The hands-down best, however, is the nearby Salitre Mesón Costero (Rte.  681, Km 3.8, Barrio Islote, Arecibo;   787/816-2020).  You can taste the salt of the sea in the breeze blowing through this charming oceanfront restaurant's terrace dining area and in the smacking fresh seafood served here.  The dining room has big windows overlooking the coast, and there's also a comfortable bar.  This is a great place to watch the sunset.  The house specialty, a kind of criolla version of the classic Spanish seafood paella, called mamposteado de mariscos, has mussels; shrimp; and freshly caught fish, octopus, or calamari.  Its seafood-stuffed mofongo platters and the whole red snapper with tostones are hard to beat, but the mahimahi in parcha sauce came close. 

A little farther down the road is Picholo Restaurant (Rte.  681, Km.  0.3, Barrio El Pasaje, Arecibo;   787/878-2203), a typical Puerto Rican roadside restaurant that specializes in fresh seafood and traditional criollo fare.  The unpretentious, no-tablecloths, paper-napkin environment offers a menu of local dishes, from chicken and seafood asopao, to shrimp or lobster-stuffed mofongo, to a variety of fresh fish and shellfish options.  The restaurant's signature dish is the lightly breaded and fried marlin filet, caught fresh by the owners or brought in from the neighboring marina, on a bed of rice and beans.  And while the generous portions may be gut-busting, the prices are certainly pocket-friendly, between $7 to $45 for an entree, with lobster tails being on the higher end of the price range.  The restaurant is usually quite busy during the peak lunch hours, as there is always a lunch special, so there may be a bit of a wait for a table.  Picholo is open Monday through Saturday from 7am to 9pm, Sunday from 10am to 6pm. 

Karst Country ★★

One of the most interesting areas of Puerto Rico is the large Karst Country, south of Arecibo.  This other-worldly group of rock formations was created by the process of water sinking into limestone.  As time goes by, larger and larger basins are eroded, forming sinkholes.  Mogotes (karstic hillocks) are peaks of earth where the land didn't sink into the erosion pits.  The Karst Country lies along the island's north coast, directly northeast of Mayagüez in the foothills between Quebradillas and Manatí.  The region is filled with an extensive network of caves.  The world's largest radio/radar telescope dish, the 20-acre (8-hectare) Arecibo Observatory (see above), rests within one of these sinkholes. 

South of the Karst Country looms the massive central mountain region and Utuado at the heart of the massive Cordillera Central mountain range, which rides the island's back from east to west like an elevated spine. 

The Karst Country area was deforested in the late 1940s; alluvial valleys and sinkholes were then used for pastures, shifting cultivation, and coffee plantations.  In this region, most of the coffee sites were abandoned in the 1960s, and today most of these sites are covered with secondary forests.  The recovery of these forests has been very rapid because of a close seed source—trees left on the steep slopes—and the presence of large populations of dispersers, mainly bats. 

Getting There

The only way to explore the Karst Country, which is easy to reach from San Juan, is by car.  Leave San Juan on the four-lane highway, Rte.  22, until you come to the town of Arecibo, a 1 1/2-hour drive, depending on traffic.  Once at Arecibo, take Rte.  10 south, in the direction of Utuado. 

If you'd like a specific goal for exploring in the Karst Country, visit the Arecibo Observatory and the Río Camuy Caves, previewed above.  However, you can also spend a day driving at random, exploring lakes and forests at your leisure.  If you decide to go this route, make the commercial town of Arecibo your base.  Although not of tourist interest itself, it is the capital of the Karst Country and the starting point from which you can drive south along many interesting and winding roads. 

  Get a Good Map

Arm yourself with the most detailed map you can find at one of the bookstores in San Juan.  The free maps dispensed by the tourist office are not sufficiently detailed and do not show the tiny secondary roads you'll need to traverse for a motor tour of the Karst Country. 

From Arecibo, you can take Rte.  10 south in the direction of Utuado (see "Central Mountains," below), which serves as the southern border to Karst Country.  Along the way, you'll pass Lagos dos Bocas ★, one of the most beautiful lakes of the Karst Country, and a reservoir adjacent to the Río Abajo Forest.  Lagos dos Bocas, which lies 12 miles (19km) south of Arecibo, is in the mountains of Cordillera Central.  Along with a nearby lake, Lake Caonillas, it is the main source of water for the North Coast Superaqueduct, which provides water for north coast towns stretching from Arecibo to San Juan. 

Take time out at Lagos dos Bocas to ride one of the free government-operated launches ★ that traverse the lake.  Established as a taxi service for residents of the area, these launches can be used by sightseers as well.  The launches leave from a dock along Rte.  123 on the west side of the lake, with departures scheduled every hour unless the weather is bad.  It's a 30-minute ride across the lake to the other main dock.  On weekends, modest wooden restaurants around the lake open to serve visitors, and the launch makes stops at them.  Most have tasty snacks, fried turnovers, and the like, and cold drinks.  Rancho Marina is good for a typical Puerto Rican country lunch.  The launch will take you back to your car, and then you can continue your journey. 

You can head back down to Arecibo, and then take the expressway back to San Juan. 

Central Mountains ★

Utuado marks the southern border of Karst Country.  It's a municipality at the dead center of the island that sprawls across the spine of the Cordillera Central mountain range.  To experience the island's Central Mountains, continue driving up into the mountains above Lago dos Bocas.  After about 20 minutes you'll reach the Casa Grande Mountain Retreat, which is open from 5 to 8:30pm every day.  This establishment, a guesthouse and restaurant, serves upscale comida criolla—inspired dishes with vegetarian options.  Café Casa Grande spills from a dining room and patio to a veranda overlooking a lush mountain valley.  But you may want to spend the night if you dine too late.  The property is reached via curving country roads, which can be tough to handle at night. 

This is Utuado, a good base in the Cordillera Central massif overlooking the heartland of Karst.  Utuado is a stronghold of jíbaro (country folk) culture, reflecting the mountain life of the island as few other settlements do. 

Just south of here you'll hook up again with Rte.  111 going west to Lares.  You'll almost immediately come to Parque Ceremonial Indígena Caguana (Indian Ceremonial Park at Caguana; Rte.  111, Km 12.4).  The site is signposted and need not take up more than 30 minutes of your time.  Built by the Taíno Indians some 1,000 years ago, the site was used for both recreation and worship, and mountains near the Tanamá River encircle it.  You can still see the outlines of the ancient bateyes (ball courts), which are bordered by carved stone monoliths decorated with petroglyphs (see "Life After Death: Taíno Burial & Ceremonial Sites," below).  The best-known petroglyph is the much-photographed Mujer de Caguaña, a figure squatting in the position of an earth-mother fertility symbol.  There is a small and very minor museum of Indian artifacts and skeletons on site.  The site is open daily from 8:30am to 4:20pm.  Admission is $2 for adults, $1 children (ages 6–13), $1 for seniors 60 and older.  For more information, call   787/894-7325. 

From Lares, take Rte.  129 south to return to Arecibo, a good spot for a meal before taking the expressway back to San Juan. 

life after death: Taíno Burial & Ceremonial sites

The Taíno Indians who lived in Puerto Rico before Europeans came here were ruled by caciques, or chiefs, who controlled their own villages and several others nearby.  The Taínos believed in life after death, which led them to take extreme care in burying their dead.  Personal belongings of the deceased were placed in the tomb with the newly dead, and bodies were carefully arranged in a squatting position.  Near Ponce, visitors can see the oldest known Indian burial ground in the Antilles, the Tibes Indian Ceremonial Center. 

Even at the time of the arrival of Columbus and the conquistadores who followed, the Taínos were threatened by the warlike and cannibalistic Carib Indians coming up from the south.  But though they feared the Caribs, they learned to fear the conquistadores even more.  Within 50 years of the Spanish colonization, the Taíno culture had virtually disappeared, the Indians annihilated through either massacres or European diseases. 

But Taíno blood and remnants of their culture live on.  The Indians married with Spaniards and Africans, and their physical characteristics—straight hair, copper-colored skin, and prominent cheekbones—can still be seen in some Puerto Ricans today.  Many Taíno words became part of the Spanish language that's spoken on the island even today.  Hammocks, the weaving of baskets, and the use of gourds as eating receptacles are part of the heritage left by these ill-fated tribes. 

Still standing near Utuado, a small mountain town, Parque Ceremonial Indígena-Caguana (Indian Ceremonial Park at Caguana), Rte.  111, Km 12.3 (  787/894-7325), was built by the Taínos for recreation and worship some 800 years ago.  Stone monoliths, some etched with petroglyphs, rim several of the 10 bateyes (playing fields) used for a ceremonial game that some historians believe was a forerunner to soccer.  The monoliths and petroglyphs, as well as the dujos (ceremonial chairs), are excellent examples of the Taínos' skill in carving wood and stone. 

Archaeologists have dated this site to approximately 2 centuries before Europe's discovery of the New World.  It is believed that the Taíno chief Guarionex gathered his subjects on this site to celebrate rituals and practice sports.  Set on a 13-acre (5.3-hectare) field surrounded by trees, some 14 vertical monoliths with colorful petroglyphs are arranged around a central sacrificial stone monument.  The ball complex also includes a museum, which is open daily from 8:30am to 4:20pm; admission is $2 for adults, $1 children (ages 6–13), $1 for seniors 60 and older. 

There is also a gallery called Herencia Indígena, where you can purchase Taíno relics at reasonable prices, including the sought-after Cemis (Taíno idols) and figures of the famous little frog, the coquí.  The Taínos are long gone, and much that was here is gone, too.  This site is of special interest to those with academic pursuits, but of only passing interest to the lay visitor. 

Where to Stay

Casa Grande Mountain Retreat This parador, situated on 107 lush and steeply inclined acres (43 hectares) of a former coffee plantation in the Caonillas Barrios district, about 1 1/2 hours from San Juan, originated in the 19th century as a hacienda.  Thanks to Steve Weingarten, a retired lawyer from New York City, the isolated compound functions today as a simple, eco-sensitive hotel.  The cement-sided core of the original hacienda is on view in the lobby and in the likable eatery, which serves an array of well-prepared international and Puerto Rican Creole-style dishes.  Eat in the inside dining room, patio, or on the veranda.  Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.  Nonguests can eat here daily from 7:30am to 9:30pm. 

Accommodations lie within five wood-sided cottages (four units to a cottage, some of them duplexes) scattered throughout the surrounding acreage.  Each unit has deliberately simple, spartan-looking decor with exposed wood, airy verandas, a balcony, hammock, view of the mountains, and a small bathroom with shower.  None has TV, phone, or air-conditioning—as such, they're popular with urbanites who want to get back to nature, and some come here to brush up on yoga and meditation skills.  A nature trail is carved out of the surrounding forest.  Under separate management, a riding stable offers horseback riding a short distance away. 

P.O. Box 1499, Utuado, PR 00641.  www.hotelcasagrande.com.    888/343-2272, 787/894-3900, or 894-3939.  Fax 787/894-3900.  20 units.  $125 double.  9% resort fee.  AE, DISC, MC, V. From Arecibo, take Rte.  10 south to Utuado, then head east on Rte.  111 to Rte.  140; head north on Rte.  140 to Rte.  612 for 1⁄4 mile (.4km).  Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool, free Wi-Fi.  In room: Ceiling fan, no TV, no phone. 

The Southern Route to the Mountains

A much easier way to the Central Mountains from San Juan is to head south along the Luis A. Ferré Expressway, Hwy.  52, to Cayey and even farther up to Aibonito.  You can take an afternoon drive and have dinner as the sun sets in the mountains; from some vantage points, the view goes all the way to the coast. 

In fact, this path is well worn by sanjuaneros heading south with mountain air and food on their minds.  Their first stop is usually Guavate.  Take the exit for Rte.  184, which winds through rolling farmland and farther up along a mountain stream flowing through the lush Carite State Forest.  In addition to the eateries, the sector is famous for local arts and crafts and plants and flowers that are sold from stands along the roadway.  While the area began gaining fame years ago for a cluster of restaurants outside the natural reserve's main entrance, the string of lechoneras has now extended along the entire route from the expressway.  Indeed, Los Amigos, at the Expressway exit, is for those who want to dive in to the genuine experience, and make a quick escape. ( On Sun afternoons, especially around Christmas season, traffic is often clogged along the country road.)  It has among the best food we've had here, and though utterly drab (like a restaurant converted from a gas station), it draws a lively crowd from early on.  A merengue band was getting the party started right when we last stopped in around 2pm on a Sunday, when patrons were already burning up the dance floor in between the cafeteria and the food stands in front of the open-air fire pits where whole pigs, chickens, and turkeys were being slowly roasted Puerto Rican style. 

The best restaurants, however, have a certain rustic charm in addition to their utilitarian nature.  Some look like wooden tropical chalets with blooming flowers, while others are set in front of a stream gushing through a lush mountainside.  Our favorites include La Casa del Guanime (Rte.  184, Km 27.8;   787/744-3921), El Rancho Original (Rte.  184, Km 27.5;   787/747-7296), Los Pinos (Rte.  184, Km 27.7;   787/286-1917), and El Mojito (Rte.  184, Km 32.9;   787/738-8888).  The truth, however, is that we rarely have been disappointed in any of the restaurants we visited. 

Most have live music on weekend afternoons, so whether your taste runs from salsa to merengue to local jíbaro country music or to something more contemporary, it may play a big role in your choice.  Also, the road carves through a lush forest and a string of restaurants along its right-hand side is set in front of the mountain stream; several have dining rooms overlooking the stream and in the quieter ones its gurgling is the only music you'll hear. 

The atmosphere is important, but the main thing about Guavate is the food: roast pork and chicken, fried rice and pigeon peas, boiled root vegetables soaked in oil and spices, and blood sausage.  This is traditional Puerto Rican mountain food, but the level of the cooking keeps getting better every time we return.  The roast turkey is a healthy alternative to the pig; it has recently been showing up escabeche style, drenched in olive oil, garlic and onions, roasted peppers, and herbs—absolutely delicious. 

Just south of Guavate is the northern entrance to the Carite Forest Reserve ★, a 6,000-acre (2,428-hectare) reserve that spreads from Cayey to neighboring Caguas and San Lorenzo, and all the way down to Patillas and Guayama on the south coast.  The forest ranges from heights of 820 to 2,963 feet (250–903m) above sea level, and, from several peaks, you can see clear down to the south coast and Ponce.  The forest, with frequent rain and high humidity, is covered with Caribbean pine and has several ponds and streams.  Some of the forest's most interesting sites are near the northern entrance by Guavate.  On one peak is Nuestra Madre, a Catholic spiritual meditation center that permits visitors to stroll the grounds.  The large natural pond, called Charco Azul, is a favorite spot for a swim.  It is surrounded by a picnic area and campground.  There are over 50 species of birds in the forest. 

Guavate is just the start of Cayey, which is a beautiful town through which to take a drive.  Another mountain road with fine restaurants is found in its Jájome sector.  This is probably a better choice for visitors wanting a more refined dining experience than the raucous pig roasts in Guavaté.  To get here, take the main exit to Cayey, turn left on Rte.  1, and then exit on to Rte.  15 on the left and follow signs to the community.  From some spots, you can see all the way down to the south coast.  Two of these are the El Mesón de Melquiades (Rte.  741, Cayey; www.elmesondemelquiades.com,   787/738-4083) and the Sand and the Sea Inn (Rte.  715, Cayey;   787/738-9086).  The Mesón de Melquiades is a 40-year-old Jájome dining institution sitting on the edge of a breezy cliff that offers solid food and fine views, while the Sand and the Sea Inn has also been serving great meals in the countryside for decades.  The El Mesón's signature appetizer, the corned-beef stuffed alcapurria, is a must-try, while for a hearty lunch or dinner, the skirt steak with mamposteao rice and tostones or the homemade sancocho are the way to go. 

Farther up into the mountains is Aibonito, a pretty town overlooking the island's gorgeous green valleys.  From Rte.  15, take the exit to Rte.  14 and follow signs for Aibonito.  A good time to visit is during the annual Fiesta de las Flores at the end of June and beginning of July, a festival stretching across 2 weeks where local growers present some of the most beautiful flowers grown on the island, including the most regal of orchids.  However this mountain town, with its cool, crisp air, is worth a trip any time of the year. 
Chapter 7: Ponce & the Southwest

For those who want to see a less urban side of Puerto Rico, head south to Ponce and the breathtaking southwest, for great beaches, dramatic coastal bluffs, and green flatlands unfolding across the horizon to the foothills of the Cordillera Central mountain range.  Ponce is a great center for sightseeing, and you can take a side trip to the bonsailike Guánica State Forest; visit Puerto Rico's second-oldest city and site of the oldest church in the New World, San Germán; and venture north through the island's central mountains to the lush Toro Negro rainforest.  Both nature reserves are hits with hikers and bird-watchers. 

Founded in 1692, Ponce is Puerto Rico's second-largest city, and its historic sectors have been beautifully restored.  San Germán and Ponce are home to some of the finest historic architecture in the hemisphere. 

Ponce also attracts beach lovers.  No, there's no real beach in town, but to the west are the coastal towns of Guánica, La Parguera, and Boquerón, where the best swimming beaches on the island are located.  The southwest is where Puerto Ricans go for holidays by the sea.  This is the real Puerto Rico, which hasn't been taken over by high-rise resorts and posh restaurants. 

Puerto Rico's west coast mimics the U.S. southwest; cacti pop up from sun-baked rock crevices, while cattle graze in the rolling Lajas Valley in the shadow of the majestic central mountains.  All across the region, a beautiful western sunset settles over its charming beach towns, with their white sands and aquamarine waters, a quintessential corner of the Caribbean. 

Ponce ★★

75 miles (121km) SW of San Juan

Ponce

"The Pearl of the South," Ponce was named after Loíza Ponce de León, great-grandson of Juan Ponce de León.  Founded in 1692, Ponce is today Puerto Rico's principal shipping port on the Caribbean.  The city is well kept and attractive, with an air of being stuck in the past, a provincial colonial town.  On weekday afternoons, men dressed in starched guayaberas and hats play dominoes while uniformed school girls run along the large walkways. 

Its historic district underwent a $440-million restoration for 1992's 500th anniversary celebration of Christopher Columbus's voyage to the New World, and improvements have continued so that it is just as stunning 20 years later.  The streets are lit with gas lamps and lined with neoclassical buildings, just as they were a century ago.  Horse-drawn carriages roll by, and strollers walk along sidewalks edged with pink marble.  Contemporary Ponce has been restored to its former splendor, the city as it was at the turn of the 20th century, when it rivaled San Juan as a wealthy business and cultural center. 

Sitting in its sun-bleached plaza on a sunny afternoon, visitors may be struck by Ponce's heat, and the nearly always-dry weather conditions.  Threats of rain are most often held at bay by the Central Mountains; you can see the potential humidity condensing into a violet haze over them in the distance as the late afternoon finally begins to fade. 

Essentials

If you're driving, take Las Américas Expressway south to the Luis A. Ferré Expressway (Hwy.  52), then continue south.  Once you pass over the central mountain range and reach the south coast, you will continue west until Ponce.  The trip takes about 1 1/2 hours. 

Getting Around The town's inner core is small enough that everything can be visited on foot.  Taxis provide the second-best alternative. 

Visitor Information Maps and information can be found at the tourist office, Paseo del Sur Plaza, Ste.  3 (  787/841-8044).  It's open daily from 8am to noon, and 1 to 4pm. 

Seeing the Sights

Attractions in Ponce

Most visitors go to Ponce to see the city's historic section, with the city's whimsical architectural style beautifully renovated.  While the city dates back to 1692, its unique "Ponce Creole" architecture, mixing Spanish colonial, Caribbean, and contemporary influences, was mostly created from the 1850s through the 1930s.  The style is marked by the use of wide balconies, distinctive masonry work, and neoclassical touches: plaster garlands, punched tin ceilings, and stained glass panels.  Other architectural motifs such as metal grill work are present within specific geographic areas of the city.  The style takes European concepts but adapts them to the city's tropical climate by using pastel colors on building facades and adding high ceilings that help keep houses cool. 

The city's unique architecture was created during the years of Ponce's heyday, in the 19th century, when it trumped San Juan as the island's most important city and rose as a regional trading power.  Cut off from San Juan because of geographic barriers, Ponce's trade brought foreign influences and style, which shows in its architecture, as well as its wider culture, including music and cuisine. 

In addition to the attractions listed below, the weekday marketplace, open Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm, at calles Atocha and Castillo, is colorful.  Perhaps you'll want to simply sit in the plaza, watching the Ponceños at one of their favorite pastimes—strolling about town. 

Casa de la Masacre de Ponce ★ MUSEUM This small museum is a memorial to one of the bloodiest chapters of political violence in Puerto Rican history—the Ponce Massacre.  Police killed 19 people and wounded 100 during a Nationalist Party march in the city on Palm Sunday, March 21, 1937, after shots rang out.  Party members had planned a march to protest the imprisonment of their leader Pedro Albizu Campos, but authorities cancelled their permit under pressure from American colonial governor Blanton Winship.  The shooting occurred when protesters met up with a police blockade.  Protesters and bystanders were among the dead, which included a woman and a 7-year-old girl.  The remnants of the Nationalist Party still mark the occasion with a ceremony here each year, and it is an important date for independence supporters.  The museum is located at the site of the tragedy in a restored shoemaker's shop that used to be a meeting place for Nationalist Party members.  The museum also documents other episodes of the political persecution of island independentistas, including the infamous carpetas, the secret dossiers that a police intelligence unit, with the backing of U.S. government officials, kept on independence supporters over the course of decades.  The museum is a concise review of the political repression of independence supporters and will prove illuminating for many visitors. 

At calles Aurora and Marina, Plaza Las Delicias.    787/844-9722.  Free admission.  Tues–Sun 8:30am–4:20pm. 

Cathedral of Our Lady of Guadalupe ★ CATHEDRAL In 1660 a rustic chapel was built on this spot on the western edge of the Plaza Las Delicias, and since then fires and earthquakes have razed the church repeatedly.  In 1919, a team of priests collected funds from local parishioners to construct the Doric- and Gothic-inspired building that stands here today.  Designed by architects Francisco Porrata Doría and Francisco Trublard in 1931, and featuring a pipe organ installed in 1934, it remains an important place for prayer for many.  The cathedral, named after a famous holy shrine in Mexico, is the best-known church in southern Puerto Rico. 

At calles Concordia and Union.    787/842-0134.  Free admission.  Mon–Fri 6am–12:30pm; Sat–Sun 6am–noon and 3–8pm. 

El Museo Castillo Serralles ★ HISTORIC HOME Two miles (3.2km) north of the center of town is the largest and most imposing building in Ponce, constructed high on El Vigía Hill (see below) during the 1930s by the Serrallés family, owners of a local rum distillery.  One of the architectural gems of Puerto Rico, it is the best evidence of the wealth produced by the turn-of-the-20th-century sugar boom.  Guides will escort you through the Spanish Revival house with Moorish and Andalusian details.  Highlights include panoramic courtyards, a baronial dining room, a small cafe and souvenir shop, and a series of photographs showing the tons of earth that were brought in for the construction of the terraced gardens, a beautiful place to sit outside the castle that overlooks the city.  You'll need to take a taxi if you don't have a car. 

El Vigía 17.    787/259-1774.  Admission $8.50 adults, $4.25, seniors, children, and students. ( Admission includes all attractions on El Vigía Hill.)  Tues–Sun 9:30am–6:30pm (last tour 5:30pm). 

El Vigía Hill ★★ ICON The city's tallest geologic feature, El Vigía Hill (300 ft./91m) dominates Ponce's northern skyline.  Its base and steep slopes are covered with a maze of 19th- and early-20th-century development.  In addition to the castle, as soon as you reach the summit, you'll see the soaring Cruz del Vigía (Virgin's Cross).  Built in 1984 of reinforced concrete to replace a 19th-century wooden cross in poor repair, this modern 100-foot (30m) structure bears lateral arms measuring 70 feet (21m) long and an observation tower (accessible by elevator), from which you can see all of the natural beauty surrounding Ponce.  The cross commemorates Vigía Hill's colonial role as a deterrent to contraband smuggling.  In 1801, on orders from Spain, a garrison was established atop the hill to detect any ships that might try to unload their cargoes tax-free along Puerto Rico's southern coastline.  Make sure to take a break in the beautifully tranquil Japanese garden, with bonsai plantings and dry areas, and elevated bridges running between ponds and streams; it's a perfect spot for a break. 

At the north end of Ponce. 

Museo de Arte de Ponce ★★★ ART MUSEUM The museum is better than ever following a 3-year renovation, which expanded exhibition space and added art preservation studios, a library and classroom, and overhauled a theater, public areas, and courtyards.  Heralding a wave of 700 recently acquired works is Roy Lichtenstein's "Brushstrokes in Flight," a 28-foot-high painted metal sculpture that has been erected in front of the renovated museum.  It's the Pop Art exponent's largest public work in the region.  The original building, designed by Edward Durell Stone (the creator of the John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts in Washington, D.C.) is still a beauty.  Often called the "Parthenon of the Caribbean," it is home to more than 4,500 works.  Lord Frederic Leighton's "Flaming June" has become a museum icon.  Puerto Rico masters Francisco Oller and José Campéche share space with European masters like Gainsborough, Velázquez, and Rubens. 

The permanent collection is now arranged by theme, rather than by date and school.  Donated to the people of Puerto Rico by the late Luís A. Ferré, the former governor who founded the pro-statehood New Progressive Party, the collection represents the principal schools of American and European art of the past 5 centuries.  There are exceptional pre-Raphaelite and Italian baroque paintings, as well as work by other European masters and Puerto Rican and Latin American paintings, graphics, and sculptures. 

Av.  de Las Américas 23–25.  www.museoarteponce.org.    787/848-0505.  Follow Calle Concordia from Plaza Las Delicias 1 1/2 miles (2.4km) south to Av.  de Las Américas.  Admission $6.50 adults, $3.25 seniors, students, and children. 

Museum of the History of Ponce (Casa Salazar) MUSEUM Opened in the Casa Salazar in 1992, this museum traces the history of the city from the time of the Taíno peoples to the present.  Interactive displays help visitors orient themselves and locate other attractions.  The museum has a conservation laboratory, library, souvenir-and-gift shop, cafeteria, and conference facilities. 

Casa Salazar ranks close to the top of Ponce's architectural treasures.  Built in 1911, it combines neoclassical and Moorish details, while displaying much that is typical of the Ponce decorative style: stained-glass windows, mosaics, pressed-tin ceilings, fixed jalousies, wood or iron columns, porch balconies, interior patios, and the use of doors as windows. 

Calle Isabel 51–53 (at Calle Mayor).    787/844-7071.  Free admission.  Tues–Sun 8am–4:30pm. 

Museum of Puerto Rican Music MUSEUM This museum showcases the development of Puerto Rican music, with displays of Indian, Spanish, and African musical instruments that were played in the romantic danza, the favorite music of 19th-century Puerto Rican society, as well as the more African-inspired bomba and plena styles.  Also on view are memorabilia of composers and performers.  It is housed in one of the city's most beautiful private residences designed by Alfredo Wiechers and dating from the turn of the 20th century. 

Calle Isabel 50.    787/848-7016.  Free admission.  Wed–Sun 8:30am–4pm. 

Parque de Bombas ★★ ICON Constructed in 1882 as the centerpiece of a 12-day agricultural fair intended to promote the civic charms of Ponce, this building was designated a year later as the island's first permanent headquarters for a volunteer firefighting brigade.  It has an unusual appearance—with Moorish, Gothic, and Victorian influences, an intricate wooden structure painted black, red, green, and yellow.  A tourist-information kiosk is situated inside the building (see "Visitor Information," above). 

Plaza Las Delicias.    787/284-3338.  Free admission.  Daily 9:30am–6pm. 

Teatro la Perla THEATER This theater, built in the neoclassical style in 1864, remains one of the most visible symbols of the economic prosperity of Ponce during the mid–19th century.  Designed by Juan Bertoli, an Italian-born resident of Puerto Rico who studied in Europe, it was destroyed by an earthquake in 1918, and rebuilt in 1940 according to the original plans; it reopened to the public in 1941.  It is noted for acoustics so clear that microphones are unnecessary.  The theater is the largest and most historic in the Spanish-speaking Caribbean.  Everything from plays to concerts to beauty pageants takes place here. 

At calles Mayor and Christina.    787/843-4322.  Prices and hours vary. 

Nearby Attractions

Hacienda Buena Vista ★ HISTORIC SITE Built in 1833, this hacienda preserves an old way of life, with its whirring water wheels and artifacts of 19th-century farm production.  Once it was one of the most successful plantations on Puerto Rico, producing coffee, corn, and citrus.  It was a working coffee plantation until the 1950s, and 86 of the original 500 acres (35 of 202 hectares) are still part of the estate.  The rooms of the hacienda have been furnished with authentic pieces from the 1850s.  Hacienda Buena Vista is located in Barrio Magüeyes along the rural mountain road to Adjuntas.  You can also tour the shade-grown coffee plantation, sprinkled with fruit and wood trees, which is carved from lush tropical forest along the Canas River.  There is also a longer, 4-hour guided tour.  From Av.  de Las Américas, go west until Rte.  500, which you will take to Rte.  123 (Calle La Poncena), and turn left.  At km 16.8 you will find the Hacienda. 

Rte.  123, Barrio Magüeyes Km 16.8.    787/722-5882 (weekdays), 284-7020 (weekends).  Tours $7 adults (4-hour tour is $10), $5 children and seniors.  Reservations required.  2-hr.  tours Wed–Sun at 8:30am, 10:30am, 1:30pm, and 3:30pm (in English only at 1:30pm).  A 30-min.  drive north of Ponce, in the small town of Barrio Magüeyes, btw.  Ponce and Adjuntas. 

Tibes Indian Ceremonial Center ★ RUINS Bordered by the Río Portuguéz and excavated in 1975, this is the oldest cemetery in the Antilles.  It contains some 186 skeletons, dating from a.d.  300, as well as pre-Taíno plazas from a.d.  700.  The site also includes a re-created Taíno village, seven rectangular ball courts, and two dance grounds.  The arrangement of stone points on the dance grounds, in line with the solstices and equinoxes, suggests a pre-Columbian Stonehenge.  Here, you'll also find a museum, an exhibition hall that presents a documentary about Tibes, a cafeteria, and a souvenir shop.  Go east along Av.  de Las Américas until Av.  De Hostos, which turns immediately into Calle Salud.  Take a left at Calle Trioche and a right at Calle Mayor Cantera, which leads into the Carretera Tibes.  Go right on Rte.  503, then bear left to stay on the road. 

Rte.  503, Tibes, at Km 2.2.    787/840-2255.  Admission $3 adults, $2 children, $1.50 seniors.  Guided tours in English and Spanish are conducted through the grounds.  Tues–Sun 8am–4:20pm.  2 miles (3.2km) north of Ponce. 

Take a Break

Stop for an ice cream or drink at King's Ice Cream (  787/843-8520), right across the street from the Parque de Bombas on the city's main square, open from 9am to 11pm.  This institution has been scooping up delicious ice cream for decades.  The almond is wonderful, as are tropical fruit flavors parcha or tamarind.  It's closer to Italian gelato than U.S. ice cream.  Another option is a drink or sandwich at the Café Tomas/Café Tompy, Calle Isabel at Calle Mayor (  787/840-1965).  Divided into less formal and more formal sections, it is open daily from 7am to midnight.  For more information, see "Where to Eat," below. 

Beaches & Outdoor Activities

Ponce is a city—not a beach resort—and should be visited mainly for its sights.  There are no beaches within the city, but an offshore cay ringed with white sand and aquamarine waters filled with marine life is just a ferry ride away. 

About 30 minutes to the west, however, are some of Puerto Rico's best beaches.  They ring the coast from Guánica through Cabo Rojo. 

Because the northern shore of Puerto Rico fronts the often-turbulent Atlantic, many snorkelers prefer the more tranquil southern coast, especially the waters off the coast of La Parguera.  Throughout the southwest coast, water lovers can go snorkeling right off the beach, and it isn't necessary to take a boat trip.  Waters here are not polluted, and visibility is usually good, unless there are heavy winds and choppy seas. 

La Guancha is a sprawling boardwalk around Ponce's bayside harbor area near the Ponce Hilton.  Several eateries are located here, and it is the scene of free concerts and other events at night.  There's no beach, but during weekend afternoons children and their families come here to fly kites or ride bicycles.  Hundreds of yachts and pleasure craft tie up here, which is also home to the Ponce Yacht Club.  La Guancha is a relatively wholesome version of Coney Island, with a strong Hispanic accent and vague hints of New England.  On hot weekends, the place is mobbed with families who listen to merengue and salsa.  Lining the boardwalk are small establishments selling beer, party drinks, fried beach snacks, and souvenirs.  There is also a lookout tower here, which is worth a climb. 

A ferry runs from La Guancha to Caja de Muertos, or Coffin Island, an uninhabited cay that's covered with mangrove swamps and ringed with worthwhile beaches.  It's some of the best snorkeling in the southwest.  A 125-passenger ferry run by Island Venture (  787/842-8546 or 866-7827) provides transportation on weekends and holidays to and from the island.  It leaves at 8:30am and returns at 3:30pm.  Roundtrip fare is $19 for adults and $14 for children.  The outfit also runs scuba and snorkeling expeditions, which includes food and drinks, to the island and surrounding reefs.  Prices are $35 per person for snorkeling and $65 for scuba. 

Other private outfits will take passengers to the island, with some providing snorkeling equipment and even lunch to guests.  There are hiking trails, gazebos, and basic bathrooms, but no running water.  The island has an old lighthouse and a nice beach. 

The city owns two tennis complexes, one at Poly Deportivos, with nine hard courts, and another at Rambla, with six courts.  Both are open from 9am to 10pm daily and are lighted for night play.  You can play for free, but you must call to make a reservation.  For information, including directions on how to get there, call the city Sports and Recreation Department at   787/840-4400.  You can also find tennis facilities at the two following country clubs, which also offer golf. 

One of the south coast's finest and newest courses is the Costa Caribe Golf & Country Club ★ (  787/848-1000 or 812-2650), on the site of the Hilton Ponce & Casino (see below).  This 27-hole course charges from $89 ($79 for guests) to play 18 holes.  The beautifully landscaped holes—with commanding views of the ocean and mountain—are laid out in former sugar-cane fields.  The no.  12 hole, one of the most dramatic, calls for a 188-yard carry over water from the back tees.  Trade winds add to the challenge.  The three 9's can be played in 18-hole combinations, as conceived by golf architect Bruce Besse.  The greens are undulating and moderate in speed, averaging 6,000 square feet (557 sq.  m).  Golf carts are included in the greens fees, and both gas and electric carts are available. 

Another course, Club Deportivo del Oeste, Hwy.  102, Km 15.4, Barrio Joyuda, Cabo Rojo (  787/851-8880 or 787/254-3748), lies 30 miles (48km) west of Ponce.  This course is an 18-holer, open daily from 7am to 5pm.  Greens fees are $32 Monday through Thursday, $43 Friday through Sunday, and include a golf cart. 

Shopping

If you feel a yen for shopping in Ponce, there are many shops in the renovated downtown area that have local arts and crafts.  The Atochoa Pedestrian Mall runs along Calle Cristina just off the city's central Plaza Las Delicias.  It's been one of Ponce's main shopping areas for decades.  There's not a whole lot here, but it's fun to walk around, and the shops and offerings are a throwback to a simpler time. 

For artisans' work, try El Palacio del Coquí Inc., Calle Marina 9227 (  787/812-0216), whose name means "palace of the tree frog."  This is the place to buy the colorful vejigantes masks (viewed as collectors' items) that are used at carnival time.  Ask the owner to explain the significance of these masks. 

Utopía, Calle Isabel 78 (  787/848-8742), conveniently located in Plaza Las Delicias, has the most imaginative and interesting selection of gift items and handicrafts in Ponce.  Prominently displayed are vejigantes, brightly painted carnival masks inspired by carnival rituals and crafted from papier-mâché.  In Ponce, where many of these masks are made, they sell at bargain prices of between $20 and $500, depending on their size.  Other items include cigars, pottery, clothing, and jewelry; gifts imported from Indonesia, the Philippines, and Mexico; and rums from throughout the Caribbean.  Julio and Carmen Aguilar are the helpful and enthusiastic owners, who hail from Ecuador and Puerto Rico, respectively. 

The big mall in town is Plaza del Caribe, Hwy.  2 (  787/848-5566 or 848-1229), located right off Exit 104-B from the Luis A. Ferre Expressway (Hwy.  52).  A smaller version of Plaza Las Américas, there are still 140 stores, many of them similar to the San Juan mall, in more than 7,000 square feet (650 sq-meters) of shopping space.  If you are looking for it, you can find it here.  Plus there are lots of good places to eat. 

Where to Eat

Expensive

La Cava ★ INTERNATIONAL Smart modern decor combines with classic continental fare to deliver one of this southern city's best dining experiences.  Start out with lobster soufflé in creamy fontina cheese fondue, or the fresh blue point oysters in a cocktail sauce, and move on to the cashew-crusted sea bass, a sumptuous pork loin, or the grilled rib-eye steak with gorgonzola butter, fire roasted peppers, and polenta wedge.  Whatever you eat, save room for the pumpkin soufflé.  If you need a good meal in Ponce, you are guaranteed one here. 

In the Ponce Hilton, Av.  Caribe 1150.    787/813-5050.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $22–$32.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 6:30–10:30pm. 

Lola Eclectic Cuisine ★★ CARIBBEAN This gem in the heart of historic Ponce has a funky but chic dining room with high ceilings and a flowery Spanish colonial courtyard.  Live Latin jazz and Spanish pop is sometimes performed outside, while world-beat music tinkles through the bar and interior dining area, with bright but stylish decor bathed in a 1930s bohemian sensibility.  The grilled cowboy rib-eye is the best steak, and the sautéed halibut in a lemony green sauce is the best fish in downtown Ponce.  A lot of the dishes mesh classic Latino and Caribbean fare to other world cuisines, like Cuban stewed beef and fried sweet plantain egg rolls, and fried mahimahi bocadillos with a coconut, lime, and cilantro sauce.  There is other delicious stuff (like shrimp Lola, in a creamy garlic sauce with vegetable risotto) and classic Puerto Rican mofongo (stuffed with shrimp, chicken, or steak) and fried whole red snapper. 

Esq.  Calle Reina y Calle Union, Ponce.    787/813-5050.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $16–$29.  AE, MC, DISC, V. Sun–Mon 11:30am–9pm, Tues–Wed 11:30am–10pm, Thurs–Sat 11am–11:30pm. 

Pito's Seafood Café & Restaurant ★ SEAFOOD This is the best of the string of seafood restaurants along the undeveloped waterfront west of the city center.  The building has a handsome wooden structure on the water, with three different dining levels with open-air views of the sea.  There is a large and fine wine selection, with 25 bottles available by the glass, and a cigar menu available at a separate smoking bar.  The spot offers the freshest seafood prepared with the finest island and Spanish recipes.  A really great spot to experience the best Puerto Rican seafood meal of your vacation.  It's a great place to try grilled Caribbean lobster, which is lighter than its Maine cousin.  I've also tried the Ponce-style conch salad and mahimahi in mango curry coconut sauce.  The halibut filet sautéed with pesto and shrimp is as tasty as it sounds, but everything looks great.  If it's anything like mine have been, your meal will be as perfect as the view. 

Hwy.  2, Las Cucharas, Ponce.    787/841-4977.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $12–$35.  AE, MC, DISC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–10pm, Fri–Sat 11am–midnight. 

Moderate

La Montserrate PUERTO RICAN/SEAFOOD This is one of a string of seaside restaurants specializing in Puerto Rican cuisine and seafood lined along the beautiful coastline about 4 miles (6.4km) west of the town center.  This restaurant draws a loyal following, and has a large dining room overlooking the waterfront.  Specialties, concocted from the catch of the day, might include octopus salad, several different kinds of asopao, a whole red snapper in Creole sauce, or a selection of steaks and grills.  They also offer vegetarian dishes like the vegetables mofongo in a criollo sauce.  Nothing is innovative, but the cuisine is typical of the south of Puerto Rico, and it's a family favorite.  The fish dishes are better than the meat selections. 

Sector Las Cucharas, Rte.  2, Km 218.2.    787/841-2740.  Main courses $13–35.  AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm. 

La Terraza INTERNATIONAL This big and sunny restaurant has a dramatic view.  Two-story walls of windows sweep the eye out over the greenery of the hotel's garden.  At nighttime, there is a different themed special and a sprawling soup-and-salad bar (access to which is included in the price of any main course).  On the standard menu, there's a pepper-covered pan-seared sirloin steak, and a plantain-crusted grouper filet with garlic sauce.  The restaurant also serves breakfast buffets and weekend brunch buffets. 

In the Ponce Hilton, Av.  Caribe 1150.    787/259-7676.  Dinner main courses $24–$26, breakfast buffet $19, brunch buffet $22.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 6:30am–10:30pm. 

Inexpensive

Café Tomas/Café Tompy   PUERTO RICAN The more visible and busier section of this establishment functions as a simple cafe for neighbors and local merchants.  At plastic tables often flooded with sunlight from the big windows you can order coffee, sandwiches, or cold beer, perhaps while relaxing after a walking tour of the city.  The family-run restaurant in back is more formal.  Here, amid a decor reminiscent of a Spanish tasca (tapas bar), you can enjoy such simply prepared dishes as beefsteak with onions, asopao de pollo, buttered eggs, octopus salads, and yucca and Spanish ham croquettes. 

Calle Isabel 56, at Calle Mayor.    787/840-1965.  Café Tompy: breakfast $2.50–$6, main courses lunch and dinner $5–$10.  Café Tomas: main courses $10–$30 AE, MC, V. Daily 6am–11pm. 

Where to Stay

Expensive

Hilton Ponce Golf & Casino ★★ On a 30-hectare (74-acre) tract of land right on the coast, this is the best, full-service hotel in southern Puerto Rico.  A 10-minute drive from downtown, near the La Guancha waterfront district, the hotel has a 27-hole golf course, sprawling pool area, lush grounds, and spacious rooms, done up in attractive tropical style with great amenities and furnishings.  Even basic rooms have private balconies and roomy, gleaming bathrooms.  There's a playground and pool for the kids, great fitness and health club, a busy casino, and lively lobby area.  The resort has a top-rate business center and other services for business travelers.  The hotel restaurants are among the city's finest.  The Player's Lounge outside the casino has live music on weekends.  There are often weekend live concerts and other events at the nearby La Guancha. 

Av.  Caribe 1150 (P.O. Box 7419), Ponce, PR 00716.  www.hilton.com.    800/445-8667 or 787/259-7676.  Fax 787/259-7674.  153 units.  $199–$239 double; $449–$699 suite.  12% resort fee.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $15; self-parking $8.  Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; bikes; casino; children's program; fitness center; 27-hole golf course; playground; lagoon-shaped pool ringed w/gardens; room service; 2 tennis courts; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar..

Moderate

Holiday Inn Ponce The hotel is set on a hill overlooking the coast right near a string of popular coastal seafood restaurants.  There is a great view from the hotel rooms, but the place is outside the downtown area and is not close to a bathing beach.  The Tropical Casino is open 24/7 and has 346 machines and 10 tables.  Kids can hang out in the game room or the pool.  You are better off staying downtown if you want culture, and head to Guanica or Cabo Rojo if you want to hit the beach. 

3315 Ponce By Pass, Exit 221, El Tuque, Ponce, PR 00715.  www.holidayinn.com.    800/465-4329 or 787/844-1200.  116 units.  $149–$159 double includes breakfast.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free parking.  Amenities: Restaurant; bar with live music, gym; pool; room service; whirlpool; Wi-Fi.  In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer. 

Howard Johnson Ponce   This hotel, a 15-minute drive east of Ponce, has nice bedrooms that are comfortable and decked out with contemporary furnishings.  Each unit has a small tiled bathroom with tub/shower combination.  The prices appeal to families.  Unless you have kids, who will enjoy the pool, you are probably better off staying in town. 

Turpo Industrial Park 103, Mercedita, Ponce, PR 00715.  www.hojo.com.    787/841-1000.  120 units.  $115 double; $165 suite.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free parking.  East of Ponce on Hwy.  52, opposite the Interamerican University.  Amenities: Restaurant; bar/disco; gym; pool; children's wading pool, room service; whirlpool; Wi-Fi; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer. 

Meliá A city hotel with southern hospitality, the Meliá, which has no connection with the international hotel chain, attracts businesspeople and visitors who want to explore the city's historic offerings.  The location is a few steps away from the Cathedral of Our Lady of Guadalupe and from the Parque de Bombas (the red-and-black firehouse).  Although the more expensive Hilton long ago outclassed this old and somewhat tattered hotel, many people who can afford more upscale accommodations still prefer to stay here for its old-time atmosphere.  The lobby floor and all stairs are covered with Spanish tiles of Moorish design.  The desk clerks speak English.  The small rooms are comfortably furnished and pleasant enough, and most have a balcony facing either busy Calle Cristina or the old plaza.  Bathrooms are tiny, each with a shower stall.  Breakfast is served on a rooftop terrace with a good view of Ponce.  You can park your car in the lot nearby. 

Calle Cristina 2, Ponce, PR 00731.  www.hotelmeliapr.com.    787/813-5050.  Fax 787/841-3602.  73 units (shower only).  $100–$140 double.  Rates include continental breakfast.  AE, MC, V. Parking $3.  Amenities: Restaurant; bar; outdoor pool; room service; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, high-speed Internet. 

Ramada Ponce  Located right off the gorgeous Plaza Las Delicias, the main square of the restored historic district, this is an attractive, well-kept property in an excellent location.  It can be noisy on weekend nights, and in rooms by the ice machine; and the bathrooms, as well as the linens and other amenities and extras, could use updating.  If you want to spend time in historic Ponce, however, this is still a great option.  The onsite restaurant, Lola Eclectic Cuisine, is excellent, but the pool is small and lounging options beside it limited.  Of the 70 units, there are six historic rooms with 1882 architecture, which bring the beauty of the city to your bedside. 

Calle Riena, Ponce, PR 00731.  www.ramadaponce.com.    787-813-5050.  70 units.  $99–$129 double; $135–$150 suite.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free parking.  East of Ponce on Hwy.  52, opposite the Interamerican University.  Amenities: Restaurant; bar; fitness center; outdoor pool; room service; Wi-Fi in public areas; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, Internet. 

The Southwest Coast

The southwest corner of the island is where the locals go to kick back and chill out.  The area is a favored vacation spot for San Juan and Ponce residents, as well as a weekend getaway destination.  In fact, for many travelers the area will be too crowded during Easter week and the month of July, the height of the Puerto Rico tourism season.  Here are some of Puerto Rico's great beaches, notably Guánica and Boquerón Beach ★★, and a lot of mom-and-pop operations that offer nightly rentals and good seafood dinners. 

Southern Puerto Rico is increasingly gaining a reputation among scuba divers, although the outfitters are a bit lean here and not as well organized or plentiful as in the Cayman Islands.  The attraction is the continental shelf that drops off a few miles off the southern coast.  Within this watery range is a towering wall that is some 20 miles (32km) long and filled with one of the best assortments of marine life in the West Indies.  Diving is possible from the town of La Parguera in the west all the way to Ponce in the east.  The wall drops from 60 to 120 feet (18–37m) before it "vanishes" into 1,500 feet (457m) of sea.  With a visibility of around 100 feet (30m), divers experience the beautiful formations of some of Puerto Rico's most dramatic coral gardens. 

Bird-watchers should head to the Guánica State Forest, which is the sanctuary that has the greatest number of birds on the island.  For beachcombers, there are many hidden places, such as Gilligan's Island off the coast of the little village of Guánica.  For snorkelers, there are miles of coral reefs, awash with tropical fish, coral, and marine life.  The Cabo Rojo Lighthouse, south of Boquerón, offers views of the rocky coastline and a panoramic sweep of the Caribbean. 

Guánica

Guánica, on the Caribbean Sea, lies 73 miles (118km) southwest of San Juan and 21 miles (34km) west of the city of Ponce.  The Guánica Dry Forest and adjacent area is a UNESCO-designated world biosphere reserve.  The rare bonsailike forest is home to more than 100 species of migratory and resident birds, the largest number in Puerto Rico.  The beach at Guánica is pristine, and the crystal-clear water is ideal for swimming, snorkeling, and diving.  Directly offshore is the famed Gilligan's Island, plus six of Puerto Rico's best sites for night or day dives.  The area was once known for its leaping bullfrogs.  The Spanish conquerors virtually wiped out this species.  But the bullfrogs have come back and live in the rolling, scrub-covered hills that surround the 18-acre (7.3-hectare) site of the Copamarina Beach Resort, the area's major hotel (see below.) 

Guánica is adjacent to the unique Dry Forest and experiences very little rainfall.  Nearby mountains get an annual rainfall of 15 feet (4.6m), but Guánica receives only about 15 inches (38 cm).  This is the world's largest dry coastal forest region.  The upper hills are ideal for hiking.  Guánica was once the haunt of the Taíno Indians, and it was the place where Ponce de León first explored Puerto Rico in 1508.  One of his descendants later founded the nearby city of Ponce in 1692. 

It is also the site of the landing of the Americans in 1898 during the Spanish-American war that began Puerto Rico's century-long relationship with the United States.  You reach the harbor by taking the main exit to Guánica from Rte.  116 to Calle 25 de Julio.  A large rock monument on the town's malecón, or harbor, commemorates the landing.  The Williams family, descendants of a doctor who arrived with the troops and settled here after marrying a local girl, still live in one of the historic wooden homes along the waterfront.  The area has lots of seafood restaurants and bars, as well as snack vendors along a bayside promenade.  It is festive on weekend evenings. 

Hiking & Bird-Watching in Guanica State Forest ★★

Heading directly west from Ponce, along Rte.  2, you reach Guánica State Forest ★ (  787/821-5706), a setting that evokes Arizona or New Mexico.  Here you will find the best-preserved subtropical ecosystem on the planet.  UNESCO has named Guánica a World Biosphere Reserve.  Some 750 plants and tree species grow in the area. 

The Cordillera Central cuts off the rain coming in from the heavily showered northeast, making this a dry region of cacti and bedrock, a perfect film location for old-fashioned western movies.  It's also ideal country for birders.  Some 50% of all of the island's terrestrial bird species can be seen in this dry and dusty forest.  You might even spot the Puerto Rican emerald-breasted hummingbird.  A number of migratory birds often stop here.  The most serious ornithologists seek out the Puerto Rican nightjar, a local bird that was believed to be extinct.  Now it's estimated that there are nearly a thousand of them. 

To reach the forest, take Rte.  334 northeast of Guánica, to the heart of the forest.  There's a ranger station here that will give you information about hiking trails.  The booklet provided by the ranger station outlines 36 miles (58km) of trails through the four forest types.  The most interesting is the mile-long (1.6km) Cueva Trail, which gives you the most scenic look at the various types of vegetation.  You might even encounter the endangered bufo lemur toad, once declared extinct but found, thankfully, still jumping in this area. 

Scuba Diving, Snorkeling & Other Outdoor Pursuits

The best dive operation in Guánica is Island Scuba (  787/309-6556), which provides direct service to the Copamarina Beach Resort.  The company's Delta 38 sportfish power boat will pick up guests from the resort's long pier, where fishing is permitted.  A two-tank dive costs $110, plus $20 for full diving equipment.  The outfit is the closest to the spectacular diving sites around The Wall, a 22-mile-long formation, marked by canyons and crevices, at the edge of the continental shelf.  The area is filled with coral and schools of tropical fish.  The underwater wonderland lies 2 miles offshore. 

At one of the local beaches, Playa Santa, west of town, Pino's Boat & Water Fun (  787/821-6864 or 484-8083) will rent you a paddleboat or kayak at prices ranging from $15 to $25 hourly.  A banana-boat ride costs $8 per person, while water scooters cost $55 for a half-hour. 

One of the most visited sites is Gilligan's Island, a series of mangrove and sand cays near the Caña Gorda peninsula.  Part of the dry forest reserve, it is set aside for recreational use.  A small ferry departs from in front of Restaurant San Jacinto, just past Copamarina Beach Resort, every hour daily from 10am to 5pm, weather permitting; round-trips cost $7.  Ballena Beach is farther down Rte.  333, in the coastal border of the Dry Forest.  This is a beautiful beach, with huge palm trees and golden sand.  During winter storms, surfers flock here for rare, tubular waves. 

Where to Eat

Alexandra ★ INTERNATIONAL This is a genuinely excellent restaurant with a young kitchen team turning out delectable dishes that include freshly caught seafood.  One of the favorite dishes is the seafood paella.  The grilled fresh lobster and the lobster tail in Thermidor sauce are must-haves.  The grilled filet mignon in port wine and porcini mushroom sauce is served with local root-vegetables puree.  The interior is air-conditioned but tropical in its feel, providing a welcome dose of relaxed glamour. 

In the Copamarina Beach Resort, Rte.  333, Km 6.5, Caña Gorda (P.O. Box 805), Guánica.    787/821-0505.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $19–$40.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 6–10:30pm; Fri–Sat 6–11pm. 

The Blue Marlin ★ SEAFOOD The most established restaurant on Guánica's famous harbor, this is still the best place for local seafood.  Housed in a rambling plantation-style structure overlooking the pretty bay, there is a large but relaxed quiet dining area, with some tables on balconies overlooking the harbor, serving excellent local meals, with an accent on freshly caught seafood.  We love everything from the Caribbean lobster ceviche salad to the mofongo stuffed with mixed seafood (conch, octopus, shrimp, and red snapper) in a light tomato sauce.  But culinary landlubbers can find satisfaction here with the budget-priced comida criolla.  Even the pork chops are tasty.  There's an adjacent bar area with a jukebox playing all sorts of local hits—from reggaeton to classic salsa—and televisions tuned to sports or music videos.  The long rectangular bar not only overlooks the harborside drive, but also one of its sides is actually on the street.  Tasty snacks, such as seafood turnovers and fried fish fritters, are available, as well as more substantial menu items.  There's even a more informal outdoor terrace area with cafeteria-style booths perfect for families who want a quick snack after the beach and billiards. 

55 Calle Esperanza Idrach, malecón (waterfront), Guánica (at the end of Calle 25 de Julío), Guánica.    787/821-5858.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $9.50–$23.  MC, V. Tues–Thurs 4–9pm, Fri–Sat 5pm–1am, Sun 1–10pm. 

Bodegas Andreu Solé   ★★ WINERY/TAPAS If you think Puerto Rican wine sounds like a joke, you won't after visiting this restored plantation home on Ensenada Bay: a bodega on the grounds of what was once the largest sugar mill in the Caribbean, serving homegrown wine using tempranillo, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, and other grapes, and with an excellent Spanish tapas menu.  There is excellent live music on Friday and Saturday nights,from jazz to Spanish ballads to Puerto Rican folk music.  On Sunday, they are open from 2 to 6pm; with a visit to the bodega vineyard.  There is a bar and dining room inside, but most visitors stick to the tables outside overlooking the bay.  Diners can request the excellent house paella in seafood, meat, or vegetable varieties when making reservations.  Normally there is no admission, except for special functions featuring well-known acts, but, even then, admission prices generally hover around $10.  The house wines are grown from a vineyard in town and elaborated on premises.  I can vouch for the smoothness of the house red, which at $25 a bottle is also a bargain.  A wide-variety of boutique wines and handcrafted liquors, like coffee, passion fruit, mandarin, and mango, are also available here.  You can just stop in if you want to try the local wine, hear some music, and nibble on tapas, but reservations are required if you want a full meal. 

Rte.  3116, Km 2.5, Av.  Los Veteranos, Ensenada, 00647.    787/951-9622.  MC, V. Tapas $5–$10.  Fri–Sat 7pm–1am, Sun 2–6pm. 

Jibarito en Playa SEAFOOD/PUERTO RICAN This new restaurant is located in front of the bay at the eastern end of the town's harbor.  On weekend nights, locals twist to live music or sing karaoke over cold beer and seafood empanadillas.  A second floor bar has a killer view of the bay, dance hall, and pool tables.  There are new fresh fish specials every day, and standard favorites like the mixed seafood salad, with conch, octopus, shrimp, and lobster in a lime vinaigrette topped with tomatoes, cheese, and croutons. 

Ave.  Esperanza Idrach, in front of the malecón (waterfront), Guanica.    787/674-8892.  Main courses $7.50–$25.  MC, V. Wed–Sun 11am–9pm. 

The Palmas Café BEACH CAFE/PUERTO RICAN The poolside cafe is a great spot for drinks or a light lunch in front of the gorgeous coast and pool area, surrounded by the resort's low-slung Caribbean architecture, and wildly blooming flowers and towering palms.  Despite the casual setting, you can get seriously creative cuisine in addition to standard breakfast and lunch items, including mofongo stuffed with grouper in garlic and lemon sauce, chicken cracklings with spicy aioli and fried plantain, or breaded shrimp in guava sauce served with fried sweet potato. 

In the Copamarina Beach Resort, Rte.  333, Km 6.5, Caña Gorda (P.O. Box 805), Guánica.    787/821-0505.  Main courses $12–$20.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 7am–9:30pm. 

Where to Stay

Copamarina Beach Resort ★★   The Copamarina spreads out along a landscaped palm grove with gentle waters and offshore cays, a large pool, and shady grounds.  The attractively decorated units have tile floors, lots of exposed wood, and louvered doors with screens that open onto large verandas or terraces.  Everything is airy and comfortable.  Bathrooms are large and up-to-date.  The Bodyderm Spa specializes in massage and body treatments with relaxation techniques and healing touches for the body, mind, and spirit.  Spa appointments are available from 9am to 6pm.  The fine-dining restaurant, Alexandra, serves great food, and it's less formal than most San Juan restaurants of similar quality, and staffed by a hardworking crowd of young people.  The array of watersports and sports activities is incredible, and tours can be gotten to anywhere on the island, including next door at the Guánica Dry Forest Reserve.  The hotel also offers guests all-inclusive options.  Rent a car and try some of the local restaurants in Guánica and other coastal villages you will visit while staying here, and visit beaches throughout the area. 

Rte.  333, Km 6.5, Caña Gorda (P.O. Box 805), Guánica, PR 00653.  www.copamarina.com.    888/881-6233 or 787/821-0505.  Fax 787/821-0070.  106 units.  High season $235–$295 double; low season $190–$250 double; year-round $350–$400 suite, $850–$1,000 villa.  10% resort fee.  AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking.  From Ponce, drive west along Rte.  2 to Rte.  116 and go south to Rte.  333, then head east.  Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; health club; 2 outdoor pools; room service; spa; tennis courts; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, dataport, fridge, hair dryer. 

Mary Lee's by the Sea ★   Owned and operated by Michigan-born Mary Lee Alvarez, a former resident of Cuba and a self-described "compulsive decorator," this is an informal collection of cottages, seafront houses, and apartments, located 4 miles (6.4km) east of Guánica.  Five California-style houses are subdivided into eight living units, each suitable for one to three couples.  Rooms are whimsically decorated in an airy, somewhat bohemian way, with a sense of 1960s comfort and a sometimes-soothing sense of clutter.  Each unit has a small, tiled bathroom with a tub.  The entire compound, which grew in an artfully erratic way, is landscaped with flowering shrubs, trees, and vines.  Overall, the ambience is kind and low-key. 

There aren't any formally organized activities here, but the hotel sits next to sandy beaches and a handful of uninhabited offshore cays.  The management maintains rental boats with motors, two waterside sun decks, and several kayaks for the benefit of active guests.  Hikers and bird-watchers can go north to the Guánica State Forest. 

Don't come here looking for nighttime activities or enforced conviviality.  The place is quiet, secluded, and appropriate for low-key vacationers looking for privacy.  There isn't a bar or restaurant here, but each unit has a modern kitchen and an outdoor barbecue.  The rooms are serviced weekly, although guests can arrange daily maid service for an extra fee. 

Rte.  333, Km 6.7 (P.O. Box 394), Guánica, PR 00653.  www.maryleesbythesea.com.    787/821-3600.  Fax 787/821-0744.  11 units.  $110–$130 double; $140–$150 studio and 1-bedroom apt; $180–$225 2-bedroom apt; $300 3-bedroom house.  MC, V. From Ponce, take Rte.  2.  When you reach Rte.  116, head south toward Guánica.  The hotel is signposted from the road.  Amenities: Laundry service, barbeque.  In room: A/C, kitchen, no phone. 

Parador Guánica 1929   This charming property lies on one of the island's prettiest roads, enveloped by a canopy of trees as it winds along Ensenada Bay and a line of plantation homes atop a hill overlooking it.  Guánica's Ensenada sector was once the site of one of the largest sugar mills in the Caribbean, but it's been a bit of a ghost town since it shut down in the 1980s.  Shadows of its former opulence can be glimpsed in the sun-baked decaying structures throughout the area, as well as the few restored buildings, such as this immaculate hotel.  A classic Spanish-style plantation home, with a wide, wraparound veranda on each of its two levels, its rooms have subdued tropical decor and are comfortable and well equipped.  Breakfast is served on the downstairs side veranda overlooking the large pool area, with sun chairs on its surrounding deck.  The food at the on-site restaurant is only okay.  Prices at area restaurants are extremely competitive. 

Rte.  3116, Km 2.5, Av.  Los Veteranos, Ensenada, Guánica 00767.  www.tropicalinnspr.com.    787/821-0099 or 787/893-4423.  Fax 787/841-3602.  21 units.  $102 double.  Rates include continental breakfast.  AE, MC, DISC, V. Amenities: Pool; gym; playground w/basketball court; Wi-Fi in common areas.  In room: A/C, satellite TV, hair dryer, high-speed Internet, kitchen. 

  Puerto Rico's Secret beaches

Some of Puerto Rico's most beautiful and isolated beaches lie on the island's southwestern coast, on the Caribbean Sea, far from major highways.  Stretching between Ponce in the east and Cabo Rojo on Puerto Rico's extreme southwestern tip, these beaches flank some of the least densely populated parts of the island.  And because the boundaries between them are relatively fluid, only a local resident (or perhaps a professional geographer) could say for sure where one ends and the other begins. 

If you consider yourself an aficionado of isolated beaches, it's worth renting a car and striking out for these remote locales.  Drive westward from Ponce along Hwy.  2, branching south along Rte.  116 to Guánica, the self-anointed gateway and capital of this string of "secret beaches." 

By far the most accessible and appealing beach is Caña Gorda ★.  Set about a quarter mile (.4km) south of Guánica, at the edge of a legally protected marsh that's known for its rich bird life and thick reeds, Caña Gorda is a sprawling expanse of pale beige sand that's dotted with picnic areas and a beach refreshment stand/bar, showers, bathrooms, and other facilities.  Just beyond the public beach is the well-recommended Copamarina Beach Resort (  787/821-0505).  You can check in for a night or two of sun-flooded R&R. Even if you're not staying at the hotel, consider dropping in for a Cuba Libre, a margarita, or a meal. 

Farther along is Ballena Beach, which stretches for a mile or more along a deserted beachfront, protected by rocky bluffs and a grove of towering palm trees.  There are several other smaller beaches as Rte.  333 cuts farther into the dry forest and ends at an undeveloped parking area, adjacent to a foundation built right on the coast, with the sandy Tamarindo Beach beyond it.  Hills surround the area, covered by the dwarfed pines at the outskirts of the reserve. 

Another beautiful beach in town is Playa Santa, which also lies off Rte.  116 (the exit to Rte.  325 is signposted).  The white-sand beach has incredibly tranquil salty water, and there is a string of eateries serving snacks and cold drinks around a harbor beside it.  La Jungla and Manglillo are two other beautiful, undeveloped beaches bordering here, with great snorkeling because of coral reefs just offshore and interesting mangrove canals.  The road to Playa Santa first cuts through a section of undeveloped dry forest before ending at the beach town.  An unmarked dirt road on the left-hand side leads to another breathtakingly beautiful sand beach. 

In the very southwest sector of Puerto Rico are some relatively hidden and very secluded beaches, although getting to them is a bit difficult along some potholed roads.  Head west on Rte.  101, cutting south at the junction with Rte.  301, which will carry you to one of the most westerly beaches in Puerto Rico, Playa Sucia.  The beach opens onto Bahia Sucia ★, whose name rather unappetizingly translates as "Dirty Bay."  Actually it isn't dirty; it's a lovely spot.  Hikers willing to walk a while will also be rewarded for their efforts from the Boquerón public beach and over the bluffs bordering it. 

All these beaches might be hard to reach, but persevere and you'll be met with warm water and long, uncrowded stretches of sand, where towering king palms and salt-tolerant sea grapes provide an idyllic tropical backdrop for sun and surf.  Keep in mind that most of the beaches mentioned here have virtually no services or public utilities.  Pack what you'll need for the day—food, water, sunscreen, and so forth. 

La Parguera ★

This charming fishing village lies 78 miles (126km) southwest of San Juan and 26 miles (42km) west of Ponce, just south of San Germán.  From San Germán, take Rte.  320 directly south and follow the signposts.  Note that this route changes its name several times along the way, becoming Rte.  101, 116, 315, 305, and then 304 before reaching La Parguera—even though it's all the same highway. 

The name of the village comes from pargos, meaning snapper.  Its main attraction, other than its beaches and diving, is Phosphorescent Bay, which contains millions of luminescent dinoflagellates (microscopic plankton).  A disturbance causes them to light up the dark waters.  For dramatic effect, they are best seen on a moonless night.  Boats leave for a troll around the bay nightly from 7:30pm to 12:30am from La Parguera pier, depending on demand.  The trip costs $7.50 per person. 

Offshore are some 12 to 15 reefs with a variety of depths.  The Beril reef goes down to 60 feet (18m), then drops to 2,000 feet (610m).  This wall is famous among divers, and visibility ranges from 100 to 120 feet (30–37m).  These reefs also provide some of the best snorkeling possibilities in Puerto Rico.  Marine life is both abundant and diverse, including big morays, sea turtles, barracudas, nurse sharks, and manatees.  Paradise Scuba & Snorkeling Center, Hotel Casa Blanca Building, at La Parguera (  787/899-7611), offers the best diving and snorkeling.  A two-tank dive costs $100; a 3-hour snorkeling jaunt goes for $40 per person, with equipment included.  Lessons and a variety of trips like the 2 hour Bio-Bay trip for $30 (including snacks and beverages) are available. 

Where to Stay

Parador Villa Parguera ★   Although the water in the nearby bay is too muddy for swimming, guests can enjoy a view of the harbor and take a dip in the swimming pool.  Situated on the southwestern shore of Puerto Rico, this parador is favored by sanjuaneros for weekend escapes.  It's also known for its seafood dinners (the fish are not caught in the bay), comfortable and uncomplicated bedrooms, and location next to the bay's famous phosphorescent waters.  Each unit has either a balcony or a terrace.  Bathrooms are rather cramped but well maintained, and each has either a shower or a tub.  This place is more gregarious and convivial, and usually more fun, than the Porlamar, a few steps away. 

The spacious, air-conditioned restaurant, where the occasionally slow service might remind you of Spain in a bygone era, offers traditional favorites, such as filet of fish stuffed with lobster and shrimp.  Nonguests are welcome here, and there's a play area for children.  Because the inn is popular with local vacationers, there are frequent specials, such as a $425 weekend (Fri–Sun) special for two that includes welcome drinks, breakfasts, dinners, flowers, and dancing, along with a free show. 

There's a dock right outside the restaurant where boats tie up, which is convenient because the thing to do here is to hire a boat and explore the beautiful shallow coast replete with reefs and tropical sea life. 

Main St. 304 (P.O. Box 3400), Carretera 304, Km 303, La Parguera, Lajas, PR 00667.  www.villaparguera.net.    787/899-7777.  Fax 787/899-6040.  74 units (all with either shower or tub).  Sun–Thurs $97–$110, Fri–Sat $120–$165 double.  2 children 9 or under stay free in parent's room.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Drive west along Rte.  2 until you reach the junction with Rte.  116; then head south along Rte.  116 and Rte.  304.  Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV. 

Where to Eat

Besides the following recommendation, the formal dining room at Parador Villa Parguera (see "Where to Stay," above) also is an excellent dinner option. 

Aguazul   SEAFOOD/CREATIVE CARIBBEAN Chef Tamara Zoe has great stuff every day on offer: linguini in a tomato vodka sauce, cod in a black risotto, lobster crepes, or mustard-marmalade beef tenderloin.  There are glorious seafood risottos and a seafood mampositado, a Latin fried rice delight.  This is about the fanciest fare in town, and Chef Tamara and the rest of the gang will make you feel at home with personal, welcoming, and efficient service. 

Calle Reina y Calle Principal 304.    787/899-8014.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $12–$27.  MC, V. Daily 5–10pm. 

La Casita   SEAFOOD The town's most consistently reliable and popular restaurant dating back to the 1960s, it sits in a simple wooden building by the sea, with an interior of varnished pine, the perfect backdrop for platters of local and imported fish and shellfish.  Filets of fish can be served in any of seven different styles; lobster comes in five, and it's a great spot to try Caribbean lobster.  Mofongo is stuffed with crab, octopus, shrimp, lobster, or assorted shellfish.  Begin with fish chowder, a dozen cheese balls, or fish croquettes.  End with coconut-flavored flan.  A simple family spot, reflected in the service and decor. 

Calle Principal 304.    787/899-1681.  Main courses $12–$25 MC, V. Fri–Sat 4–9:30pm, Sun noon–8pm. 

Boqueron

Lying 85 miles (137km) southwest of San Juan and 33 miles (53km) west of Ponce is the little beach town of Boquerón.  It is just south of Cabo Rojo, west of the historic city of San Germán, and near the western edge of the Boquerón Forest Preserve. 

What puts sleepy Boquerón on the tourist map is its lovely public beach, one of the island's finest for swimming.  It is also known for the shellfish found offshore.  The beach has facilities, including lockers and changing places, plus kiosks that rent watersports equipment.  Parking costs $2.  On weekends, the resort tends to be crowded with families driving down from San Juan. 

The outfitter that offers the best scuba diving in the area is Mona Aquatics, on Calle José de Diego, directly west of the heart of town (  787/851-2185) near the town marina and Hotel Boquemar.  A two-tank dive off the coast's famed diving area costs $75 per person (equipment rental $51). 

From Boquerón, you can head directly south to El Faro de Cabo Rojo at the island's southernmost corner.  The century-old Cabo Rojo Lighthouse lies on Rte.  301, along a spit of land between Bahía Sucia and Bahía Salinas.  Looking down from the lighthouse, you'll see a 2,000-foot (610m) drop along jagged limestone cliffs.  The lighthouse dates from 1881, when it was constructed under Spanish rule.  The famous pirate Roberto Cofresi used to terrorize the coast along here in the 19th century and was said to have hidden out in a cave nearby. 

A Wildlife Refuge for Bird Fanciers

The area around Cabo Rojo, the Refugio Nacional Cabo Rojo (Red Cape National Refuge;   787/851-7297), attracts serious bird-watchers to its government-protected sector.  The refuge, run by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service, is on Rte.  301 at Km 5.1, 1 mile (1.6km) north of the turnoff to El Combate.  At the entrance to the refuge is a visitor center.  The only time you can visit the refuge is from 9am to 4pm Monday to Saturday; admission is free.  Migratory birds, especially ducks and herons as well as several species of songbirds, inhabit this refuge.  Birders have reported seeing at least 130 species.  Trails for bird-watchers have been cut through the reserve.  The best time to observe the birds is during the winter months, when they have fled from their cold homelands in the north. 

Where to Eat

Boquerón has great roadside food stands.  You can get everything from fresh oysters to hand-rolled burritos from vendors set up along the beach village's main drag.  Open air bars and restaurants also sell turnovers stuffed with fresh fish, lobster, or conch, as well as seafood ceviche salad in plastic cups. 

Galloway's ★ CREOLE/CONTINENTAL This is our favorite restaurant in Boquerón, right near the center of town but set back along the water.  Sit in the back dining room that is on a dock over Boquerón Bay.  It's a great spot for a fresh seafood meal as you watch one of those perfect western sunsets.  This is a casual spot, but the food is first rate.  Being right on the water, we can't help but take our seafood straight up—such as a whole fried red snapper or grilled Caribbean lobster.  While much of the menu is typical of the area, specializing in local cuisine and seafood, you'll also find great ribs, steaks, and pub fare.  The bar near the entrance is a good spot to mix with locals and ex-pats and pick up tips on area activities.  On weekends, there's sometimes live music. 

12 Calle José de Diego, Poblado de Boquerón, Cabo Rojo.    787/254-3302.  Main courses $11–$29.  AE, MC, V. Thurs–Tues noon–midnight. 

La Cascada CREOLE/CONTINENTAL One of the best restaurants in the area, this popular bar and restaurant is a meson gastronómico, a Puerto Rico Tourism Company program that sponsors local restaurants it deems of sufficient quality to cater to tourists.  Among its other virtues, La Cascada boasts an interior waterfall.  The day begins early here.  The chef's breakfast specialty is an omelet Cascada, with ham, tomatoes, onions, peppers, and cheese.  At dinner, many Creole recipes appear, such as mofongo relleno (stuffed mashed plantains); the plantains can be stuffed with lobster, shrimp, octopus, or conch. 

The meats, such as filet mignon, are imported but tasty.  Choose among five different sauces to be served with your lobster.  Other specialties of the chef include chicken breast stuffed with lobster or shrimp.  The tastiest appetizers are fish and cheese balls. 

In the Parador Boquemar, Carretera 101, Poblado de Boquerón, Cabo Rojo.    787/851-2158.  Breakfast $5–$10; main courses $12–$29.  AE, MC, V. Daily 7:30–10:30am; Thurs–Tues 5–9pm. 

Where to Stay

Bahia Salinas Beach Resort & Spa ★★   If you are looking for peace and quiet, are a nature lover or a bird-watcher, you will love this intimate inn, but if you want to eat at a different restaurant every night and hit the town afterwards, you are better off staying closer to the center of Boquerón.  Located in a remote area of Cabo Rojo, you'll need to drive to get into town at night.  The inn is located near the Cabo Rojo Lighthouse, which is at the southwest corner of Puerto Rico, an undeveloped coastal region with salt flats, a mangrove reserve, and a bird sanctuary.  Salt mineral waters, similar to those of the Dead Sea, supply water for the on-site Jacuzzi and for treatments at its Cuni Spa, which gives a full range of beauty and relaxation treatments.  There is ample opportunity for jogging and hiking in the natural surroundings as well as all sorts of watersports.  The beach here is not the best; you'll want to drive over to the public beach for a better beach, but the infinity pool area is lovely.  The hotel's Agua al Cuello restaurant is excellent and will keep you satisfied for a few nights running, and the bar makes great drinks.  The bedrooms are midsize to large, and are furnished in the so-called "hacienda" Puerto Rican style, which means wooden colonial-style furniture and four-poster beds.  The place is well run and maintained. 

Rd.  301, Km 11.5, Sector El Faro, Cabo Rojo, PR 00622.  www.bahiasalina.com.    787/254-1212.  Fax 787/254-1215.  22 units.  $159–$186 double.  Children 11 and under stay free in parent's room.  AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; high-speed Internet access; 2 outdoor pools; room service; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV. 

Cofresi Beach Hotel Set on the town's main road across from one of the area's best dive shops, this is a choice for clients who can live without maid service and other resort-oriented amenities—there is no full-time reception or concierge staff.  The apartments here have kitchens with cutlery, plates, and cooking equipment, durable furniture, and comfortable beds; each has a small, tiled bathroom with a tub and shower.  It's about as laissez-faire as they come. 

Calle Muñoz Rivera 57, P.O. Box 1209, Boquerón, PR 00622.  www.cofresibeach.com.    787/254-3000.  Fax 787/254-1048.  12 units.  $129 1-bedroom; $165 2-bedroom; $219 3-bedroom.  AE, MC, V. Amenities: Pool.  In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, kitchenette. 

Parador Boquemar This family favorite lies right at the heart of town by Boquerón Beach.  A recent renovation has spruced up the common areas and guest rooms, which gives them a more tropical feel, but the hotel still lacks character.  Despite the small units here, Puerto Rican families like this place a lot, causing readers to complain that children sometimes run up and down the corridors.  Rooms are simple but comfortable and clean.  This is not the place to stay if you are going for ambience, but it is a good deal at a great location.  Kids will enjoy the pool.  Stay here only if you plan to spend most of your time outside the hotel.  The hotel's restaurant, La Cascada, has good food, but again the atmosphere leaves much to be desired (see "Where to Eat," above). 

Carretera 101, Poblado de Boquerón, Cabo Rojo, PR 00622.  www.boquemar.com.    787/851-2158.  Fax 787/851-7600.  75 units (shower only).  $117–$133 double; $143 junior suite.  AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; outside pool; Wi-Fi in lobby; rooms for that w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, small fridge. 

Wildflowers The rooms in this guesthouse have charming classic furnishings, which are as comfortable as they are appealing, and all the modern conveniences you need.  Original work by local artists hangs throughout the premises, including inside guest rooms, which also adds tremendously to the ambience.  Near town and the beach, its proximity is also a plus, except during summer and holiday weekends, when the roving partygoers will keep you up until 1am.  The rooms are sizeable and can sleep up to four people. 

Calle Muñoz Rivera 13, Poblado de Boquerón, Cabo Rojo, PR 00622.  www.wildflowersguesthouse.com.    787/851-1793.  Fax 787/255-4096.  8 units.  Winter $100–$125 double; off-season $75–$100 double.  MC, V. Amenities: A/C, TV, small fridge. 

San German ★★

104 miles (167km) SW of San Juan, 34 miles (55km) W of Ponce

Only an hour's drive from Ponce and right near the beaches of the southwest coast, and just over 2 hours from San Juan, San Germán, Puerto Rico's second-oldest town, is a little museum piece.  It was founded in 1512 and destroyed by the French in 1528.  Rebuilt in 1570, it was named after Germain de Foix, the second wife of King Ferdinand of Spain.  Once the rival of San Juan, San Germán harbored many pirates who pillaged the ships that sailed off the nearby coastline.  Indeed, many of today's residents are descended from the smugglers, poets, priests, and politicians who once lived here. 

The pirates and sugar plantations are long gone, but the city retains colorful reminders of its Spanish colonial past.  Flowers brighten some of the patios here as they do in Seville.  Also like in a small Spanish town, many of the inhabitants stroll through the historic zone in the early evening.  Nicknamed Ciudad de las Lomas (City of the Hills), San Germán boasts verdant scenery that provides a pleasant backdrop to a variety of architectural styles—Spanish colonial (1850s), criolla (1880s), neoclassical (1910s), Art Deco (1930s), and international (1960s)—depicted in the gracious old-world buildings lining the streets.  So significant are these buildings that San Germán is included in the National Register of Historic Places. 

The city's 249 historical treasures are within easy walking distance of one another.  Regrettably, you must view most of them from the outside.  If some of them are actually open, count yourself fortunate, as they have no phones, keep no regular hours, and are staffed by volunteers who rarely show up.  Also, be aware that the signage for the historic buildings can be confusing, and many of the streets in the old town tend to run one-way.  Most of the city's architectural treasures lie uphill from the congested main thoroughfare (Calle Luna).  We usually try to park on the town's main street (Carretera 102, which changes its name within the borders of San Germán to Calle Luna), and then proceed on foot through the city's commercial core before reaching the architectural highlights described below. 

One of the most noteworthy churches in Puerto Rico is Iglesia Porta Coeli (Gate of Heaven) ★ (  787/892-0160), which sits atop a knoll at the eastern end of a cobble-covered square, the Parque de Santo Domingo.  Dating from 1606 and built in a style inspired by the Romanesque architecture of northern Spain, this is the oldest church in the New World.  Restored by the Institute of Puerto Rican Culture, and sheathed in a layer of salmon-colored stucco, it contains a museum of religious art with a collection of ancient santos, the carved figures of saints that have long been a major part of Puerto Rican folk art.  Look for the 17th-century portrait of St. Nicholas de Bari, the French Santa Claus.  Inside, the original palm-wood ceiling and tough ausubo-wood beams draw the eye upward.  Other treasures include early choral books from Santo Domingo, a primitive carving of Jesus, and 19th-century Señora de la Monserrate Black Madonna and Child statues.  Admission is $3 for adults, $2 for seniors and children over 12, free for children 12 and under.  The church is open Wednesday through Sunday from 8:30am to noon and 1 to 4:30pm. 

Less than 100 feet (30m) downhill from Iglesia Porta Coeli, at the bottom of the steps that lead from its front door down to the plaza below, is the Casa Morales (also known as the Tomás Vivoni House, after its architect), San Germán's most photographed and widely recognized house.  Designed in the Edwardian style, with wraparound porches, elaborate gables, and elements that might remind you of a Swiss chalet, it was built in 1913, reflecting the region's turn-of-the-20th-century agrarian prosperity. ( Note that it is a private residence and can be admired only from the outside.) 

The long and narrow, gently sloping plaza that fronts Iglesia Porta Coeli is the Parque de Santo Domingo, one of San Germán's two main plazas.  Street signs also identify the plaza as the Calle Ruiz Belvis.  Originally a marketplace, the plaza is paved with red and black cobblestones.  It is bordered with cast-iron benches and portrait busts of prominent figures in the town's history.  This plaza merges gracefully with a second plaza, which street signs and maps identify as the Plaza Francisco Mariano Quiñones, the Calle José Julian Acosta, and the Plaza Principal.  Separating the two plazas is the unused (and closed to the public) Viejo Alcaldía (Old Town Hall).  Built late in the 19th century, it's awaiting a new vision, perhaps as a museum or public building. 

San Germán's most impressive church—and the most monumental building in the region—is San Germán de Auxerre (  787/892-1027), which rises majestically above the western end of the Plaza Francisco Mariano Quiñones.  Designed in the Spanish baroque style, it was built in 1573 in the form of a simple chapel with a low-slung thatch roof.  Its present grandeur is the result of at least five subsequent enlargements and renovations.  Much of what you see today is the result of a rebuilding in 1688 and a restoration in 1737 that followed a disastrous earthquake.  Inside are three naves, 10 altars, three chapels, and a belfry that was rebuilt in 1939, following an earthquake in 1918.  The central chandelier, made from rock crystal and imported from Barcelona in 1866, is the largest in the Caribbean.  The pride of the church is the trompe l'oeil ceiling, which was elaborately restored in 1993.  A series of stained-glass windows with contemporary designs was inserted during a 1999 restoration.  The church can be visited daily from 8 to 11am and 1 to 3pm. 

A few lesser sights are located near the town's two main squares.  Farmacia Martin, a modern pharmacy, is incongruously set within the shell of a graceful but battered Art Deco building at the edge of the Parque Santo Domingo (Calle Ruiz Belvis 22;   787/892-1122).  A cluster of battered and dilapidated clapboard-sided houses line the southern side of the Calle Dr. Ueve, which rambles downhill from its origin at the base of the Iglesia Porta Coeli.  The most important house is no.  66, the Casa Acosta y Fores.  Also noteworthy is Casa Juán Perichi, a substantial-looking structure at the corner of Calle Dr. Ueve and Parque Santo Domingo, nearly adjacent to the Iglesia Porta Coeli.  Both houses were built around 1917, of traditional wood construction, and are viewed as fine examples of Puerto Rican adaptations of Victorian architecture.  Regrettably, both are seriously dilapidated, although that might change as San Germán continues the slow course of its historic renovations. 

To the side of the Auxerre church is the modern, cement-sided Public Library, Calle José Julia Acosta, where you might be tempted to duck into the air-conditioned interior for a glance through the stacks and periodicals collection.  It's open Monday through Thursday from 8am to 8:30pm, Friday from 8am to 6pm, and Saturday from 8am to 1pm and 2 to 4:30pm.  Behind the Auxerre church is at least one masonry-fronted town house whose design might remind you of southern Spain (Andalusia), especially when the flowers in the window boxes add splashes of color. 

Where to Eat

Restaurante L'Auxerre ★   This French restaurant is that rare eatery in downtown San Germán that actually lives up to its surroundings.  The artfulness of the cuisine in San Germán is as surprising as the historic district itself in a region of kitschy beach towns.  The menus change weekly, but Chef Pierre Saussy, who has worked with such names as Roger Verger to Rocco Dispirito, keeps his fine contemporary cuisine simple and on point, taking advantage of fresh seasonal ingredients.  Recent items include filet mignon with truffle potato pureé and roast asparagus, linguini with chicken in an almond and basil pesto, and roast mahimahi in a brown-butter caper sauce with potato purée.  It's also a perfect spot for Sunday brunch if you are in the area, with goat cheese and shrimp omelets and steak and eggs available.  The restaurant is inside a Spanish hacienda in the heart of the historic district.  Sit outside in the interior patio to soak up all its charm; the inside dining room is a bit cramped. 

Calle Estrella 16, San Germán.    787/892-8844.  Reservations recommended.  Entrees $14–$31.  AE, MC, V. Wed–Thurs 6–10pm; Fri–Sat 6pm–midnight; Sun 11am–4pm. 

Tapas Café ★   This charming restaurant is a favorite spot in the historic district of San Germán, an oasis of sophistication in the provincial countryside.  The interior dining room, with blue mosaic tiles, high ceilings, and whitewashed walls, offers a cool respite from the heat.  Portions are sizeable.  The seafood paella is loaded with prawns, mussels, and lobster, and the beef medallions in blue cheese did not disappoint.  Other menu items range from Spanish sausage sautéed in wine sauce to the classic soup caldo gallego to fried fish fritters. 

Calle Dr. Santiago Veve 50, San Germán.    787/264-0610.  Tapas $2–$15.  AE, MC, V. Wed–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm; Sun 11am–9pm. 

The Southern Mountains

The mountain towns surrounding the gorgeous Toro Negro Forest Reserve straddle Puerto Rico's highest peaks that run along the center of the island.  The area is included here because it is most accessible from the south, from Ponce and surrounding towns.  The mountain towns include Villalba, Orocovis, Adjuntas, and Jayuya, as well as parts of Utuado, Coamo, and Juana Díaz.  Even from Ponce, the best route to this region is to head east first along the coastal Hwy.  2 to neighboring Juana Díaz.  Then take Rte.  149 north through town and into the lush mountains of Villalba.  Continue straight until the intersection of Rte.  143 west to get to Toro Negro Forest Reserve (there's an entrance at Km 32.4). 

Toro Negro Forest Reserve ★ & Lake Guineo ★

North of Ponce, Toro Negro Forest Reserve ★ (  787/867-3040) lies along the Cordillera Central, the cloud-shrouded, lush central mountain chain that spans Puerto Rico's spine from the southeast town of Yabucoa all the way to outside Mayagüez on the west coast.  This 7,000-acre (2,833-hectare) park, ideal for hikers, straddles the highest peak of the Cordillera Central at the very heart of Puerto Rico, quite near the midway point between east and west coasts.  A forest of lush trees, the reserve also contains the headwaters of several main rivers and lakes, and has several crashing waterfalls.  The reserve lies at the borders of four mountain towns: Villalba, Jayuya, Adjuntas, and Orocovis. 

The lowest temperatures recorded on the island—some 40°F (4°C)—were measured at Lake Guineo ★, the island's highest lake, which lies within the reserve.  The best trail to take here is a short, paved, and wickedly steep path on the north side of Rte.  143, going up to the south side of Cerro de Punta, which at 4,390 feet (1,338m) is the highest peak on Puerto Rico.  Allow about half an hour for an ascent.  Once at the top, you'll be rewarded with Puerto Rico's grandest view, sweeping across the lush interior from the Atlantic to the Caribbean coasts.  Other mountains in the reserve also offer hiking possibilities.  The reserve spans several distinct types, including a sierra palm forest, which, in places, forms a complete canopy from the sun, and a mountainous cloud forest, with dwarfed, but vibrantly green plants and trees. 

The main entrance to the forest is at the Doña Juana recreational area, which has a swimming pool filled with cold water from the mountain streams, a picnic area, and a rustic campground.  An adjacent restaurant serves up Puerto Rican barbecued chicken and pork and other local delicacies.  Many hiking trails originate from this area.  One of the best is a 2-mile (3.2km) trek to an observation post and the impressive 200-foot (61m) Doña Juana Falls. 

Jayuya lies north of the reserve, but to access it, you must return east along Rte.  143 to Rte.  149, and take that north, farther into the central mountains to Rte.  144, which you'll take back west to access the town.  This is a beautiful area, filled with old coffee estates and lush mountain forest.  The local parador is a country inn built on the grounds of an old coffee plantation (Parador Hacienda Gripiñas; see below), which is one of the best places to stay in Puerto Rico's interior.  There's also a fine restaurant on the grounds.  Built by a Spanish coffee baron more than 150 years ago, the restored plantation home is surrounded by gardens and coffee fields. 

Jayuya is also known for the relics found here from Puerto Rico's Taíno past.  Off Rte.  144 is La Piedra Escrita, the Written Rock, a huge boulder beside a stream, with Taíno petroglyphs carved into the stone.  It's a wonderful picnic spot.  Jayuya also hosts an annual Indigenous Festival in November, which combines native crafts with music and food.  The Cemi Museum, Rte.  144, Km 9.3 (  787/828-1241), in town has a collection of Taíno pottery and cemís, amulets sacred to the island's indigenous peoples.  The adjacent Casa Museo Canales, Rte.  144, Km 9.4 (  787/828-1241), is a restored 19th-century coffee plantation home with interesting exhibits.  Both museums charge $1 for adults and 50¢ for children and are open from 9am to 3pm every day. 

Where to Stay & Eat

Hacienda Gripiñas ★ This restored plantation home is set amid 20 acres (8 hectares) of coffee fields and nature.  It's a charming respite from the 21st century.  Take a walk in the cool mountain countryside, then stake out a hammock or rocking chair on the porch or one of the many balconies and relax awhile.  First built in 1853 by coffee baron and Spanish nobleman Eusebio Pérez del Castillo, the former plantation home was turned into an inn in 1975 but retains the elegance and grandeur of its past.  A wide porch wraps around this restored plantation home, and there are gorgeous gardens and coffee fields surrounding it.  There are also reading rooms and common areas in which to lounge.  The sweet song of chanting coquíes, ubiquitous small Puerto Rican tree frogs, fills the air.  There is also an excellent restaurant on the premises and a pool.  A small trail from here leads to the summit of Cerro Punta, Puerto Rico's highest peak.  There are frequent specials with meals included that make sense for visitors because of the parador's isolation.  If you are looking for solitude, go during the week, and you will likely have the place to yourself and a few other guests and save a few bucks on your tab. 

Rte.  527, Km 2.5, Jayuya, PR 00664.  www.haciendagripinas.com.    787/828-1717.  Fax 787/828-1718.  18 units.  Mon–Wed $77–$99 double; Thurs–Sun $93–105 double.  AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; library; 2 pools.  In room: A/C, TV. 
Chapter 8: Mayagüez & the Northwest

Mayagüez lies in the middle of Puerto Rico's west coast, a major fun-in-the-sun zone, but it lacks its own quality beach.  Yet Puerto Rico's third largest city is close enough to several world-class beaches to make it worth a stay.  And it can offer guests different visions of the Caribbean vacation. 

To the north, along the northwest coast that stems from Rincón to Isabella, lie the Caribbean's best surfing beaches, which compare favorably to those of California and the East Coast.  These are the beaches we'll focus on in this chapter.  And to the south are equally attractive beaches with among the calmest waters in the Caribbean, offering excellent snorkeling, scuba, and sailing opportunities. 

The city is not as renowned for its historic sites, architecture, and attractions as San Juan or Ponce, but it has all three. 

Mayagüez is also close to the western mountains, especially Maricao, perhaps the prettiest of the mountain towns in Puerto Rico.  You can rent a cabin at the Monte del Estado national park, or just spend the day in its swimming pool fed by mountain streams. 

Throughout the northwest beach towns, there are a few top-level properties, several modestly priced and attractive hotels and guesthouses, and a few noteworthy paradores, privately operated country inns approved by the Puerto Rico Tourism Company that choose to participate in its joint promotion program. 

This western part of Puerto Rico contains the greatest concentration of paradores, along the coast and in the cool mountainous interior of the west.  They're a wonderful escape from pollution and traffic on a hot day. 

Mona Island can also be explored from the coast near Mayagüez.  It's one of the island's biggest adventure jaunts in Puerto Rico, and shouldn't be missed. 

Mayagüez ★

Mayagüez

98 miles (158km) W of San Juan; 15 miles (24km) S of Aguadilla

Approaching from the north, where Hwy.  2 swoops down along beautiful coastal overpasses, it's easy to dismiss Mayagüez at first glimpse as a rather drab commercial port city, but the so-called "Sultan of the West" tends to win over visitors who give it a chance to show off its charms. 

Despite outward appearances as a city, Mayagüez makes for a convenient stopover for those exploring the west coast. 

If you want a big-wave beach with dramatic coastal cliffs, you can head north to Rincón, Aguadilla, and Isabella (see Rincón, later).  And if you want white sand and palms, with tranquil aquamarine water, head south to Cabo Rojo, Lajas, and Guánica (see chapter 7). 

Famed for the size and depth of its harbor (the second largest on the island, after San Juan's harbor), Mayagüez was built to control the Mona Passage, a route essential to the Spanish Empire when Puerto Rico and the nearby Dominican Republic were vital trade and defensive jewels in the Spanish crown.  Today this waterway is notorious for the destructiveness of its currents, the ferocity of its sharks, and the thousands of boat people who arrive illegally from either Haiti or the Dominican Republic, both on the island of Hispaniola. 

Queen Isabel II of Spain recognized Mayagüez's status as a town in 1836.  Her son, Alfonso XII, granted it a city charter in 1877.  Permanently isolated from the major commercial developments of San Juan, Mayagüez, like Ponce, has always retained its own distinct identity. 

Today the town has been hit by the closure of its tuna packing industry (which once packed 60% of the tuna consumed in the United States) and its manufacturing plants, victims to the exodus of jobs to countries where labor can be bought at a cheaper price. 

But the town has a future in tourism and in some of the life science and high-tech manufacturing springing up around the fine University of Puerto Rico Mayagüez campus, which specializes in engineering and the sciences.  The university community adds much to the city's cultural life. 

The city spent some $400-million on public-works projects in preparation to host the 2010 Caribbean and Central American Games.  An outdoor natatorium on the UPR campus, an overhauled sports stadium and coliseum, and a pedestrian park unfolding along the city's west coast, are among the attractions left in the wake of the games. 

Essentials

Getting There Cape Air (www.flycapeair.com;   800/352-0714) flies from San Juan to Mayagüez four times daily (flying time: 40 min.).  Round-trip passage starts at $122 per person, and can run as high as $240. 

If you rent a car at the San Juan airport and want to drive to Mayagüez, it's fastest and most efficient to take the northern route that combines sections of the newly expanded De Diego Expressway, Rte.  22, with the older Rte.  2.  Estimated driving time for a local resident is about 120 minutes, although newcomers usually take about 30 minutes longer.  The southern route, which combines the modern Rte.  52 with transit across the outskirts of historic Ponce, and final access into Mayagüez via the southern section of Rte.  2, requires a total of about 3 hours and affords some worthwhile scenery across the island's mountainous interior. 

The Port of Mayagüez is also home to a cruise ferry that provides service with Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic.  A simple ferry passage costs $180 round trip (the boat has comfortable lounges with comfortable chairs).  A cabin will cost an extra $96 to $116 a night and can accommodate up to four, while suites run from $196 to $216.  Contact American Cruise Ferries (3 locations: Calle Concordia 249, Mayagüez,   787/832-4800; Cobians Plaza GM-05, Av.  Ponce de Leon, Parada 23, Santurce,   787/622-4800; and Terminal Don Diego, Av.  Francisco A. Camaño [Del Puerto], Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic,   809/688-4400). 

Getting Around Taxis meet arriving planes.  If you take one, negotiate the fare with the driver first, because cabs are unmetered here. 

There are branches of Avis (  787/832-0406), Budget (  787/832-4570), and Hertz (  787/832-3314) at the Mayagüez airport. 

Visitor Information The Mayagüez Municipal Tourism Development Office (  787/832-5882) can help orient visitors.  In Aguadilla, there is also a Puerto Rico Tourism Company office (  787/890-3315).  If you're starting out in San Juan, you can inquire there before you set out (see "Visitor Information," under "Orientation," in chapter 5). 

Exploring the Area

Mayagüez Attractions

The area surrounding the city's elegant central Plaza Colón is among the prettiest in the city, with several restored historic buildings.  A bronze monument of Christopher Columbus atop a globe surrounded by 16 female statues dominates the plaza, which is also marked by mosaic tiled walkways and gurgling fountains, blooming tropical gardens, and squat leafy trees. 

The neo-Corinthian Mayagüez City Hall and the Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria, which has gone through several incarnations since the first building went up in 1780, are noteworthy buildings right off the plaza. 

Make sure to stroll down nearby Calle McKinley, home to the fabulous, recently restored Yaguez Theater.  The neoclassical jewel served as both an opera and a silent movie house and is still in active use today.  Originally inaugurated in 1909, a fire destroyed the structure in 1919, but it was rebuilt.  The city's smashing Art Deco post office is also located here. 

Mayagüez's historic waterfront district, with a restored 1920s Custom House and rows of neat warehouses, is also worth a look.  The century-old University of Puerto Rico Mayagüez campus is also beautiful. 

To soak in the magical sunsets of the Puerto Rican west coast, either head to the hills surrounding the city or down to the new lineal coastal park that was built as part of multiple capital works projects for the city's hosting of the 2010 Caribbean and Central American Games. 

Juan A. Rivero Zoo ZOO This 14-acre (5.7-hectare) zoo recently underwent a $14-million renovation.  The African safari exhibit has lions, elephants, zebras, and rhinos, and jaguars are part of a Caribbean exhibit.  There's also a butterfly and lizard exhibit and gorgeous grounds.  The birdhouse has a fantastic elevated walkway where you look down on colorful tropical birds such as parrots.  There are also eagles, hawks, and owls.  You can see the entire zoo in 2 hours. 

Rte.  108, Barrio Miradero, Mayagüez Union.    787/834-8110.  Admission $10 adults, $5 children and seniors, free children 4 and under and seniors 75 or older.  Parking $3.  Wed–Sun and holidays 8:30am–4pm. 

The Tropical Agricultural Research Station PARK/GARDEN This is not a botanical garden but a working research facility of the U.S. Department of Agriculture.  It's located on Rte.  65, between Post Street and Rte.  108, adjacent to the University of Puerto Rico Mayagüez campus and across the street from the Parque de los Próceres (Patriots' Park).  At the administration office, ask for a free map of the tropical gardens, which have one of the largest collections of tropical plant species intended for practical use, including cacao, fruit trees, spices, timbers, and ornamentals.  There are lots of trees and a wide variety of plants.  A hacienda-style building houses the visitor's office.  The area is divided into fruit trees, a palm plantation, a bamboo forest, and a botanical garden.  There are labs, greenhouses, and other research facilities throughout the area. 

2200 Av.  Pedro Albizu Campos.    787/831-3435.  Free admission.  Mon–Fri 9am–5pm. 

Beaches & Watersports

Nearly the entire west coast has great beaches except for Mayagüez, but beach lovers might consider staying here if they want to explore several different beaches.  That's because the city perhaps alone puts visitors in such easy reach of the tranquil Caribbean waters to its south, or the rough surfing paradise to its north. 

Trips to either area, which can be combined with, say, a day of sailing and snorkeling or windsurfing lessons, can be arranged through either of the large hotels.  Or refer to the destination location either below (for the north) or chapter 10 for the south. 

Where to Eat

El Castillo INTERNATIONAL/PUERTO RICAN This is one of the best large-scale dining rooms in western Puerto Rico, as well as the main restaurant for the largest hotel and casino in the area.  The food has real flavor and flair, unlike the typical bland hotel fare so often dished up.  Known for its generous lunch buffets, El Castillo serves only a la carte items at dinner, including seafood stew served on a bed of linguine with marinara sauce, grilled salmon with a mango-flavored Grand Marnier sauce, and filets of sea bass with a cilantro, white-wine, and butter sauce.  Steak and lobster are served on the same platter, if you want it. 

In the Mayagüez Resort & Casino, Rte.  104, Km 0.3.    787/832-3030.  Breakfast buffet $13; Mon–Fri lunch buffet $16; Sun brunch buffet $27; main courses $14–$36.  AE, MC, V. Daily 6:30am–midnight. 

Where to Stay

Holiday Inn & Tropical Casino This six-story hotel competes with the Mayagüez Resort & Casino, though we like the latter better.  The Holiday Inn is well maintained, contemporary, and comfortable.  It has a marble-floored, high-ceilinged lobby, an outdoor pool with a waterside bar, and a big casino, but it's a rather nondescript property, lacking the character of the competing Mayagüez Resort.  Bedrooms here are comfortably but functionally outfitted in motel style; they've recently been refurbished.  Each unit is equipped with a tiled bathroom with a tub/shower combination.  The restaurant serves Puerto Rican and International cuisine.  The lobby bar area is often fine, especially on weekends when there is live music. 

2701 Rte.  2, Km 149.9, Mayagüez, PR 00680-6328.  www.hidpr.com.    800/465-4329 or 787/833-1100.  Fax 787/833-1300.  142 units.  $100–$108 double; $128–148 suite.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; casino; gym; outdoor pool; room service; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer. 

Howard Johnson Downtown Mayagüez This converted monastery is a charming historic hotel right near Plaza Colón.  With its wide tiled walkways wrapped around an interior courtyard and Spanish colonial furnishings, this hotel is at home in the city's prettiest neighborhood.  The construction allows the breeze in and affords nice vistas of historic Mayagüez.  There's a pool in one courtyard and the hotel is outfitted with high-speed Internet and other modern amenities.  There's no restaurant on premises but there are several nearby, including the delectable Ricomini Café across the street, where you'll have your free continental breakfast.  It can get noisy on weekends. 

Calle Mendez Vigo Este 57, Mayagüez, PR 00680.  www.hojo.com.    787/832-9191.  Fax 787/832-9122.  35 units.  $100–$155 double.  Rates include continental breakfast at neighboring bakery.  AE, MC, V. Parking $4.  Amenities: Pool; 1 room for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, Internet access (in some rooms). 

Mayagüez Resort & Casino ★ This is the largest and best general hotel resort in western Puerto Rico, appealing equally to business travelers and vacationers.  Set atop a hill, it benefits from a country-club format spread of 20 acres (8 hectares) of tropical landscaping with trees and gardens.  The landscaped grounds have been designated an adjunct to the nearby Tropical Agriculture Research Station.  Five species of palm trees, eight kinds of bougainvillea, and numerous species of rare flora are set adjacent to the institute's collection of tropical plants, which range from a pink torch ginger to a Sri Lankan cinnamon tree.  The river pool is also set among palms and boulders.  There is high-speed Internet access throughout the property. 

The hotel's well-designed bedrooms open onto views of the swimming pool, and many units have private balconies.  Guest rooms tend to be small, but they have good beds.  The restored bathrooms are well equipped with makeup mirrors, scales, and tub/shower combinations. 

For details about El Castillo, the hotel's restaurant, see "Where to Eat," below.  The hotel is the major entertainment center of Mayagüez.  Its casino has free admission and is open 24 hours a day.  You can also drink and dance at the Victoria Lounge. 

Rte.  104, Km 0.3 (P.O. Box 3781), Mayagüez, PR 00680.  www.mayaguezresort.com.    888/689-3030 or 787/832-3030.  Fax 787/265-3020.  140 units.  $205–$275 double; $365 suite.  Resort fee $10 per night.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking $5.  Amenities: 2 restaurants; 3 bars; casino; babysitting; small fitness room; Jacuzzi; playground; children's pool; Olympic-size pool; room service; steam room; 3 tennis courts; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, high-speed Internet, minibar. 

Mayagüez Nightlife

Beer Garden Sport Bar Pub Overlooking Plaza Colon, this bar and pool hall draws a college and young professional crowd.  There is frequent live music on weekends, pool, sports on televisions, and great views from the balconies.  This is just one of many nightspots catering to the city's university population.  Open Monday to Saturday 7pm to 2am.  Calle Méndez Vigo at Plaza Colón, Mayagüez.    787/647-1967. 

El Casino At the completely remodeled casino at the Mayagüez Resort & Casino, with the adjoining Player's Bar, you can try your luck at blackjack, dice, slot machines, roulette, and minibaccarat.  Open 24 hours.  At the Mayagüez Resort & Casino, Rte.  104.    787/832-3030, ext.  3301. 

Fat Tuesday's It's always Mardi Gras at this chain pub that specializes in frozen daiquiris and letting the good times roll.  Open daily 5pm-2am.  At the Holiday Inn & Tropical Casino Mayagüez, Rte.  104.    787/833-1100. 

The Lobby Bar The spacious bar and lobby area gets busy around happy hour, especially when live music is performed on weekends.  The adjoining Tropical Casino is another reason to come here.  Open daily 5pm-2am.  At the Holiday Inn & Tropical Casino Mayagüez, Rte.  104.    787/833-1100. 

Mona Island: The galápagos of Puerto Rico

Off Mayagüez, the unique Isla Mona ★★★ teems with giant iguanas, three species of endangered sea turtles, red-footed boobies, and countless other seabirds.  It features a tabletop plateau with mangrove forests and cacti, giving way to dramatic 200-foot-high (61m) limestone cliffs that rise above the water and encircle much of Mona. 

A bean-shaped pristine island with no development at all, Mona is a destination for the hardy pilgrim who seeks the road less traveled.  It lies in the middle of the Mona Passage, about halfway between Puerto Rico and the Dominican Republic.  A pup tent, backpack, and hiking boots will do fine if you plan to forego the comforts of civilization and immerse yourself in nature.  Snorkelers, spelunkers, biologists, and eco-tourists find much to fascinate them in Mona's wildlife, mangrove forests, coral reefs, and complex honeycomb, which is the largest marine-originated cave in the world.  There are also miles of secluded white-sand beaches and palm trees. 

Uninhabited today, Mona was for centuries the scene of considerable human activity.  The pre-Columbian Taíno Indians were the first to establish themselves here.  Later, pirates used it as a base for their raids, followed by guano miners, who removed the rich crop fertilizer from Mona's caves.  Columbus landed in Mona during his 1494 voyage, and Ponce de León spent several days here en route to becoming governor of Puerto Rico in 1508.  The notorious pirate Captain Kidd used Mona as a temporary hideout. 

Mona can be reached by organized tour from Mayagüez.  Camping is available at $10 per night.  Everything needed, including water, must be brought in, and everything, including garbage, must be taken out.  For more information, call the Puerto Rico Department of Natural and Environmental Resources at   787/999-2200. 

There is a visitor's center on Mona, which includes living quarters for researchers and park rangers. 

To reach the island, contact Adventures Tourmarine, Rte.  102, Km 14.1, Playa Joyuda, Cabo Rojo (  787/255-2525).  Captain Elick Hernández operates boat charters to Mona with a minimum of 10 passengers, each paying about $150 for a round-trip day adventure.  Acampa Nature Adventures (Av.  Piñero 1221, San Juan;   787/706-0659) runs a 4-day, 3-night trip to Mona, which includes all equipment, meals, and guides.  The trips are run in groups with a 10-person limit.  Price depends on how many people are in the group.  San Juan dive shops, such as Ocean Sports, Av.  Isla Verde 77 (  787/268-2329), will also run dive trips off Mona Island.  However you plan to get there, make your reservations well in advance. 

Warning: The passage over is extremely rough, and many passengers prone to seasickness take Dramamine the night before the boat ride.  There is no bottled water on the island, so bring your own.  Also bring food, mosquito repellent, and even toilet paper.  Alcoholic drinks are forbidden.  While Mona's uninhabited landscape and surrounding turquoise water are beautiful, this can also be a dangerous, unforgiving place.  In 2001, a Boy Scout got lost and died from hypothermia; in 2005, a psychologist suffered the same fate. 

Rincon

100 miles (161km) W of San Juan; 6 miles (9.7km) N of Mayagüez

Western Puerto Rico & the Northwest Coast

North of Mayagüez lies the resort town of Rincón, the first of a string of beach destinations you'll encounter as you head north, but not the closest, as the town lies at the western end of a piece of land jutting off the coast. 

I always lose my bearings driving to and around Rincón, and any Google Maps or GPS system you are relying on will surely go haywire (basically giving a different direction each time you punch in the locations).  That's probably as it should be as you drive a jumble of circuitous country roads over the verdant spine of La Cadena Hills to reach the town, the center of which eludes most visitors, who head to the guesthouses and hotels along the coast.  Rincón sits on a flattened peninsula of land jutting off Puerto Rico's western coast, so there's water surrounding it on three sides, which has another confusing effect. 

Rincón long ago stopped being that sleepy coastal village attracting surfers and bohemian travelers from around the world.  They, of course, are still coming, but a building boom has brought a wave of new condo, hotel, and luxury vacation residence projects, which has attracted more and more visitors here over the last decade.  In fact, the town is beginning to worry about the pace of development and its effect on the beautiful natural resources here. 

There's still a lot of space to get lost in, though, with the surrounding hills on one side, and water on the town's other three borders.  Rincón dates from the 16th century when a landowner allowed poor families to set down roots on his land.  It was a sleepy agricultural town for centuries afterwards.  It eventually gained fame as the Caribbean's best surfing spot, a fact reinforced by its hosting the World Surfing Championship in 1968.  It remains the surfing capital of the Caribbean, a center for expat North Americans, and a tourist magnet. 

With over a dozen beaches in town, great surfing, sailing, and snorkeling, and an ever better nightlife and cultural scene, it's not hard to see why.  It continues evolving as a destination, reinforcing the fact it's one of the best stops to make in Puerto Rico. 

There was a time when nonsurfers visited Rincón for only one reason: the Horned Dorset Primavera Hotel, not only one of the finest hotels in Puerto Rico, but one of the best in the entire Caribbean.  Now there are several reasons for them to come. 

Surfing & Other Outdoor Pursuits

There are 8 miles (13km) of beachfront in Rincón, and each little spot seems to have its own name: Las Maria's, Indicator, Domes, the Point, Steps/Tres Palmas, Dog Man's.  The reasons behind the names are also varied.  One stems from the hulk of an abandoned nuclear power plant just off the beach, another for an old man who lived nearby. 

Part of the town's appeal is that it has both rough surfing beaches and tranquil Caribbean coastal areas.  Along the north side of Rincón, the Atlantic coast gets large, powerful waves, while other beaches are tranquil, perfect for snorkeling.  Yet many beaches provide both, depending on the time of year. 

During winter, uninterrupted swells from the North Atlantic form perfect waves, averaging 5 to 6 feet (1.5–1.8m) in height, with rideable rollers sometimes reaching 15 to 20 feet (4.6–6.1m).  In 2008, a rare winter storm created 25- to 30-foot (7.6–9.1m) waves here that had local surfers musing whether it was the biggest surf ever.  On the southern side of Rincón, the ocean is calm, and long, wide sand beaches unfold with swaying palm trees along them. 

The best surfing beaches include Las Maria's, Spanish Wall, and Domes near the town lighthouse on the north side.  Córcega is probably the best of the Caribbean beaches.  Some beaches, meanwhile, can show different faces at different times of the year.  For instance, Steps, which is also named Tres Palmas, is a great surfing beach in winter, but in summer is calm and one of the best spots for snorkeling.  It was recently named a natural marine reserve. 

Visitors need to proceed with caution during winter when venturing into the surf off Rincón, which can be particularly strong, with powerful riptides and undertows that routinely cause drownings.  This should not stop visitors from coming here, however.  The town has beaches with both tranquil and strong surf.  Just proceed with caution and ask locals about surf conditions. 

Windsurfing, and, increasingly, kite-boarding are also extremely popular here, with Sandy Beach a favored site because it does not have the rocks found on the ocean floor that some of the other beaches in the area have.  Also, from December to February, it gets almost constant winds every day.  Windsurfers wait on the terrace of Tamboo Tavern (see "Where to Eat," later in this chapter) for the right wind conditions before hitting the beach. 

Excellent scuba, snorkeling, parasailing, and sailing are also available in Rincón, making it one of the most active of Caribbean destinations. 

Endangered humpback whales winter here, attracting a growing number of whale-watchers from December to March.  The lighthouse at El Faro Park is a great place to spot these mammoth mammals. 

Rincón remains a mecca for surfing aficionados, but it's also a great place to learn the sport.  Learn from the best, local surfing expert Ramses Morales, through his Surf Lessons Puerto Rico & Adventure Co. (www.surflessonspuertorico.com;   787/617-4731).  Rates start at $75 for 2-hours, $100 for half-day, and $175 for a full day.  Private lessons start at $90.  Ramses is among the most respected local surfers, and he knows where the best spot from among the multitude of surf breaks on any given day, depending on the particular expectations of his clients.  He's great with beginners, but can also help kick up the game of the most experienced surfers.  He's a serious teacher, who places an emphasis on safety, and has certifications as a surf instructor and in first aid and rescue. 

The Rincón Surf School (P.O. Box 1333, Rincón;   787/823-0610) offers beginners lessons or can teach surfers how to improve their performance.  One lesson costs $95, and there are also 2-day ($180), 3-day ($260), and 5-day ($390) packages.  A private 2-hour lesson is $150, $75 each for two people.  The school also arranges surf vacation packages in conjunction with the Casa Verde Guesthouse.  Puntas Surf School (P.O. Box 4319, HC-01 Calle Vista del Mar;   787/366-1689 or 939/697-8040) is another great option.  It's run by Melissa Taylor and Rod Robertson, whose love of the sport is infectious; they say they can teach would-be surfers of any age, from 5 to 105.  Private lessons cost $50 per hour, $85 for 2 hours.  Group rates are $40 per person per hour, and package deals are also available.  Board rentals are $25 per day, $60 for 3 days, $100 for a week.  A professional photographer takes photos of lessons, which you can purchase after your lesson. 

You can't get closer to walking on water than on the 2-hour paddleboard tour run out of the Mar Azul Surf Shop (  787/823-5692; Rte.  413, Km 4.5, Bo Puntas).  When conditions are right, you can stare into the colorful world of coral reefs and tropical fish shimmering beneath the clear Caribbean sea that your board gently cuts through.  The West Coast Surf Shop, Muñoz Rivera 2E, Rincón (  787/823-3935), is another of the more established of the many surfing outfitters in town.  Both are open daily 9am to 6pm.  The shops rent surfing equipment and give lessons.  Hot Wavz Surf Shop, Maria's Beach (  787/823-3942), also rents long boards, as well as boogie boards.  Prices for board rentals start at around $25 daily.  Snorkeling gear can also be rented at these shops. 

Good snorkeling can be found just off the beach.  When conditions are right, Steps/Tres Palmas is a great spot.  Scuba divers and snorkeling enthusiasts will also want to head out to Desecheo Island, the large mass of land seen offshore from Rincón looking west.  A quick half-hour boat trip, the small island is a nature reserve with great coral formations and large reef fish.  Visibility is 100-plus feet (30m), and average water temperature is between 80° and 86°F (27°–30°C). 

A good scuba outfitter is Taíno Divers, Calle Black Eagle 564, Black Eagle Marina at Rincón (  787/823-6429), which offers local boat charters along with scuba and snorkeling trips.  The Desecheo day trip departs at 8am and returns at 2pm.  They offer a 6-hour snorkeling trip to Desecheo Island for $95, while a 2-tank dive is $129, plus $25 for equipment rental.  A beginner scuba course to Desecheo is $170.  Prices include gourmet sandwiches and drinks.  The outfit also runs half-day fishing charters for $1,200 and whale-watching expeditions and sunset cruises for $50. 

Makaira Fishing Charters (P.O. Box 257, Rincón;   787/823-4391 or 787/299-7374) offers fishing charters from a no-frills, tournament-rigged, 35-foot 2006 Contender that fits six comfortably.  Half-day rates are $575, full-day $850.  Moondog Charters (  787/823-3059) also runs fishing excursions and dive charters aboard a 32-foot Albermarle Express Sport Fisherman. 

Katarina Sail Charters (  787/823-7245) gives daily sailing trips aboard a 32-foot catamaran.  The day sail (from around 10:20am–2:30pm) consists of some fine cruising, a stop for a swim and snorkel, and then lunch.  It costs $70, $30 for children 12 and under.  The sunset sail ($50 for adults and $25 for kids) leaves at 4:30pm and returns after sunset about 2 hours later.  Watching the western sun set while sailing and listening to great music is wonderful, with rum punch, beer, and nonalcoholic drinks.  The vessel is also available for private charters. 

Most hotels on the beach have good watersports rentals, but we like Coconut Water Sports (  787/309-9328), over at Corcega Beach, on the town's southern Caribbean shore.  You can do it all, whether you want to jet ski ($55 a half hour), or paddle board or kayak ($15 per hour).  The banana boat ride ($11 per person) is 20 minutes of fun.  Flying Fish Parasail (www.parasailpr.com,   787/823-2359) runs parasailing trips ($60 per person) and snorkeling adventures out of the Black Eagle Marina.  Capital Water Sports Xtreme Rentals (  787/823-2789) at Sunset Village by the public beach also rents watersports equipment, including jet skis and small boats, and gives banana boat tow rides and runs water skiing trips. 

The most visible and sought-after whale-watching panorama in Rincón is Parque El Faro de Rincón (Rincón Lighthouse Park), which lies on El Faro Point peninsula at the extreme western tip of town.  Within its fenced-in perimeter are pavilions that sell souvenirs and snack items, rows of binoculars offering 25¢ views, and a stately looking lighthouse built in 1921.  The park is at its most popular from December to March for whale-watching, and in January and February for surfer gazing.  The park is locked every evening between midnight and 7am.  Otherwise, you're free to promenade with the locals any time you like. 

The park's snack bar is called Restaurant El Faro, Barrio Puntas, Carretera (Rte.)  413, Km 3.3 (no phone), which serves basic Puerto Rican fare and burgers.  Best for a drink or ice cream. 

Julie, at Pintos "R" Us (  787/361-3639), is Rincón's resident cowgirl, and she gives a beautiful 2-hour ride along beautiful beaches and coastal headland.  Julie and her gentle horses also ride through forest and along country roads that wind past cattle grazing on oceanfront plantation fields, as well as such local landmarks as the town's lighthouse and shuttered nuclear plant that today houses a museum.  The standard tour is 2 hours, but there are also half-day, full-day, and full-moon rides.  Prices range from $55 to $185.  Julie is a great tour guide, and because she knows everyone in town, you will meet a lot of them along the way.  Julie also runs a nonprofit to care for animals, including horses, who have been rescued from abusive situations.  Riders meet at the Black Eagle Marina for tours. 

The Rincón Town Skate Park (  787/823-2899) is an indoor skate park downtown that charges $3 per session and rents all needed equipment for $13. 

Work out at La Paz Pilates and Yoga Studio (  787/823-2885), a downtown studio offering both affordable group workouts and private lessons.  They also give and teach massage.  A great, well-run spot where everybody knows what they are doing.  It's located in the heart of downtown, next to the Post Office.  Classes are given in the morning and the early evening.  Drop-in rate for a class is $8, private lesson $45 per hour.  Receiving a massage is $45 for 30 minutes, or $75 per hour. 

Where to Eat

Very Expensive

The Blue Room ★ FRENCH/CARIBBEAN This French Caribbean Bistro at the gorgeous Horned Dorset has entrees every bit as breathtaking as the property's more acclaimed Restaurant Aaron, and more basic stuff of the finest quality.  It's much less buttoned down, and serves both French (coq au vin and lamb Provençal) and Latino (mofongo stuffed with shrimp and red snapper in green sauce) classics, plus casual fare such as delicious burgers, "four seasons" pizza, and coconut crab chowder.  I love the sides (ratatouille and green beans amandine) and the tropical sorbet trio. 

In the Horned Dorset Primavera Hotel, apt 1132.    787/823-4030.  Reservations recommended.  Entrees $26–$38; fixed-price dinner $78 for 4 courses, $110 for 9 courses; wine pairing $42–$84.  AE, MC, V. Wed–Sun 7–9:30pm. 

Restaurant Aaron ★★ FRENCH/CARIBBEAN The formal Restaurant Aaron may be the finest restaurant in western Puerto Rico—so romantic it draws guests from San Juan just for an intimate dinner.  A masonry staircase sweeps from the garden to the second floor, where soaring ceilings and a plush villa setting awaits you.  The kitchen has undergone some recent changes but the food has maintained its French tradition, and its grounding in Caribbean and native favors.  The menu changes all the time, but recent entrees have included seared mahimahi with parsnip gnocchi, tasso ham, and spaghetti squash; NY strip with blue cheese risotto and asparagus tips with a red wine jus; and a Caribbean lobster tail in a beurre rouge, with potato puree and green beans. 

In the Horned Dorset Primavera Hotel, apt 1132.    787/823-4030.  Reservations recommended.  Entrees $29–$36; fixed-price tasting menu $125 for 13 courses.  AE, MC, V. Wed–Sun 7–9:30pm. 

Expensive

Brasas Restaurant ★★ The inventive Caribbean fusion cuisine served here is one of the best meals in the Rincón area, and the setting and service only add to the pleasures of dining here.  So if you are staying at the Rincón Beach, you can eat here for several evenings without getting bored; and, if you are not, it is definitely worth a trip here for a great meal.  The menu is subject to change, but I've eaten from two versions and have yet to be disappointed.  You can start with gnocchi and pesto or mahimahi ceviche.  For entrees, there is veal grilled and served in a guava port sauce, filet in mustard caper sauce, and delectable tomato cognac sea bass.  The restaurant also serves a delicious breakfast, with everything from fresh fruit to breakfast ham and sausage to omelets and French toast.  Lunch—tasty gourmet salads and sandwiches mostly—is served at the poolside Pelican Café.  Brasas has an attractive Spanish-hacienda-style dining room, and outdoor dining in a flowery courtyard.  They also serve meals on a back deck made of dark wood and modern metal. 

Rte.  115, Km 5.8, Añasco, PR 00610.    787/589-9000.  AE, DISC, MC, V. Reservations recommended.  Main courses $18–$32; breakfast buffet $14.  Daily 6:30–10:30am and 5:30–11pm. 

La Ana de Cofresi ★ INTERNATIONAL The food here is better than you might expect: expertly prepared fine cuts of beef, fresh seafood, and Puerto Rican classics from asopao to mofongo.  The plantain-crusted dorado in cilantro cream sauce and the red snapper filet in Creole sauce are great, as is the grilled porterhouse.  Most diners will opt for the air-conditioned dining room, which overlooks the hotel's oceanfront deck, so as to be able to pay proper attention to their meal.  But you can also order off the menu from the adjacent outdoor Bohio bar and grill, which you might want to do if you are having too much fun at the bar, as we were during one Sunday afternoon happy hour.  The atmosphere is relaxed but the food is top notch.  Great service too. 

At the Villa de Cofresi Hotel, Rd.  115, Km 12.0, Rincón.    787/823-2450.  AE, MC, V. Main courses $14–$43.  Daily noon–10pm. 

The Lazy Parrot Restaurant ★★ INTERNATIONAL With an inventive menu and beautiful laid-back setting high up in this beautiful coastal village, this is one of Rincón's finest restaurants.  The menu mixes Caribbean and European flavors for optimal impact, and diners sit in an open-air terrace with panoramic views of the pool area, tropical garden, and green mountains.  I could not pass up the coconut red curry crab cakes with papaya slaw, or the fried calamari and roasted garlic in marinara sauce to start.  If you want meat, the grilled rib-eye in bordelaise sauce won't disappoint, and seafood lovers will lap up the Caribbean bouillabaisse (a mix of shellfish and mahimahi with avocado and local vegetables).  Everything I've tried here, including the penne pasta and coriander-crusted tuna, has been excellent.  The restaurant is only open during the winter high season. 

Rte.  413, Km 4.1, Barrio Puntas, Rincón, PR 00677.    787/823-0101.  AE, DISC, MC, V. Main courses $20–$36.  Daily 5:30–10pm. 

The Spot at Black Eagle ★ INTERNATIONAL The beauty of this place is precisely the contrast between the refinement of its cuisine, and the unvarnished waterfront setting, which is remarkably beautiful.  With a new outdoor bar and seating area, you can start digging into appetizers—crispy conch fritters or black bean cakes, the grilled wahoo taco or grouper tempura—over drinks and watch the sun go down.  The pork tenderloin, marinated in local flavors with a pumpkin-coconut glaze, and the flatiron steak with oyster mushroom and leek ragu, will satisfy landlubbers, but there are also tasty options from the sea like tamarind tuna and mahimahi in a spiced lobster sauce roux. 

At the Black Eagle Marina, off Rte.  413, Rincón, PR 00677.    787/823-3510.  AE, MC, V. Main courses $18–$36.  Wed–Mon 5:30–10pm. 

Moderate

The Rum Shack ★ CAFE/BAR The pool bar and cafe at the Lazy Parrot has much better food than you'd expect, perhaps Rincón's most consistently good meal.  It's also a delightful setting on a stone terrace, which draws an eclectic mix of customers into the evening.  The bar is a good place to pick up travel tips and meet other visitors and resident expats.  The food ranges from casual but tasty wraps, burgers, and burritos to churrasco and mahimahi entrees.  The appetizers really kick it, though—stuff like conch fritters in classic remoulade and grilled chicken kebabs. 

Rte.  413, Km 4.1, Barrio Puntas, Rincón, PR 00677.    787/823-0101.  AE, DISC, MC, V. Main course $18–$22, light fare $6–$12.  Daily 11am–11pm. 

Tamboo Tavern and Seaside Grill Restaurant AMERICAN-CARIBBEAN This tavern and restaurant at Beside the Pointe Guesthouse on Sandy Beach is the favored hangout for the young and beautiful beach crowd and surfing enthusiasts from the island and across the planet.  However, the food and setting are so good that everybody likes it here (I met the mayor one night).  It's a great place to eat, offering good food and a beautiful setting, no matter who you are.  Beachfront dining does not get more authentic than this.  Tables are stretched along a deck running along the beach, with tables spread out among the palm trees.  The ribs with guava barbecue sauce are a specialty, but if breathing in the sea and salt air has you craving seafood, there's grilled lobster, mahimahi in a tomato basil sauce, and daily fresh-catch specials.  Burgers, wraps, and salads are also available for lunch and dinner. 

Rte.  413, Km 4, Sandy Beach, Rincón.    888/823-8550 or 787/823-8550.  Reservations not accepted.  Main courses $12–$26 dinner; lunch items $7–$12.  MC, V. Bar daily noon–2am; restaurant Thurs–Tues noon–9:30pm. 

Inexpensive

Banana Dang!  ★ CAFE Great smoothies, expertly prepared gourmet coffee, and delicious handpicked teas will get you feeling higher.  Rincón may not be the center of the universe but since Banana Dang!  came to town, it has local baristas that can go head to head with any urban cafe from the west coast to the east.  It's where local surf legends come back down to earth after walking over waves, and it's where locals and visitors come to "drink, think, and link."  I thought the O-ranga Dang (orange juice, bananas, vanilla, and agave) was the thing, until I tried the Purple Dang (acai, bananas, strawberries, apple juice, and soymilk), the most refreshing smoothie ever.  The baked goods—chocolate banana bread, carrot muffins, and cranberry tea cake—are as impressive as the coffee and tea selection, and there are also panini and bagels.  There's also free Wi-Fi, newspapers and magazines, and a very positive community vibe.  Someone here knows the answer to just about any question.  And boy do these guys know all about bananas. 

Rte.  413, Km 4.1 (2 doors away from Lazy Parrot), Barrio Puntas, Rincón.    787/823-0963.  AE, MC, V. Smoothies $4, coffee and tea from $3, baked goods and panini $3–$5.  Wed–Mon 7am–4pm. 

La Rosa Inglesa ★★★ BRITISH BREAKFAST This British beauty wows you with warm service and an amazing view of a green valley and Caribbean coastline, and not long after taking your first bite, you'll be declaring your love.  You have to drive up a shudder-inducing steep hill to get here, and the food draws crowds of people—especially on weekend mornings, so come early.  While breakfast is officially on until noon, some stuff runs out early.  The Full Monty is classic British: eggs, stewed tomatoes and mushrooms, and bubbles and squeak (a baked mix of potato, cabbage, and onions).  Other house favorites include Dead Elvis French Toast ($7.50), with caramelized bananas, cinnamon, and syrup, and a turkey and sweet potato hash, with pancetta and rosemary ($8.50).  You can taste the labor of love that British chef Jethro puts into this amazing morning meal in every bite.  The cooking begins not long after most customers turn in for the evening, with the bread, sausages, and preserves made on site, and the vegetables slowly cooked until just right.  His wife, Ruth, oversees the cheery dining room, friendly staff, and angelic service.  There is great tea, coffee, and fresh squeezed juices.  A meal fit to start your day in paradise. 

Barrio Puntas, Carretera Interior 413, Km 2, Rincón.    787/823-4032.  MC, V. Breakfast $6.50–$11.  Reservations recommended.  Winter daily 8am–noon; summer has changing hours, call ahead. 

Rincón Nightlife

Happy hour starts in the late afternoon in Rincón, which is filled with great places to watch the sunset.  Join the surfers for a "sundowner" at Calypso's Tropical Bar, Maria's Beach (  787/823-1626), which lies on the road to the lighthouse.  Happy-hour specials are daily 5 to 7pm, and the bar stays open until the last customer leaves (usually long after midnight). 

One of the most simpático bars is Rock Bottom, adjoining Casa Verde Guest House along Sandy Beach Road (  787/823-3756).  It serves burgers and other stateside food.  The upstairs surfer bar is decorated with dozens of graffiti surfboards and has a tree-house feel to it.  Great piña coladas and daily drink specials.  The kitchen is open until 11pm, and the bar until 2am.  There are drink specials throughout the week. 

Esquire voted Tamboo Tavern (  787/823-8550) one of the best bars in America.  It's another surfer's bar in a tropical dream location right on Sandy Beach, and attracts the young and in shape.  The action percolates throughout the day, and really takes off as the sun begins to set.  Watch it from the terrace, or sit at the bar inside tapping your feet to rock en Español and progressive American music, or, increasingly, electronica.  There's live music most weekend nights.  The Rum Shack (  787/823-0101) is a good place to rub shoulders with local expats and a diverse group of travelers.  Don't miss the full-moon party or reggae nights if one is occurring while you are in town.  The Spot At Black Eagle (  787/823-3510) draws a mellow crowd at sunset and dinner, but later in the evening lets its hair down as a funky beach bar. 

Bohio Beach Bar (  787/823-2450), the oceanfront bar at Villa Cofresi, is one of the best spots to watch the sun go down, with a menu full of exotic tropical drinks, friendly bartenders, and a fun-loving crowd of locals and tourists.  The "pirate special" is a rum and coconut drink that will set you on an appropriate course.  Machete-wielding bartenders serve it in a coconut and ring a bell whenever one is ordered.  There are pool tables and a great jukebox, and sometimes live entertainment.  A fun spot, especially on Sunday afternoons.  There's a tasty bar menu with burgers, kebabs, sandwiches, and appetizers, and you can also order from the hotel's more formal restaurant. 

Where to Stay

Very Expensive

Horned Dorset Primavera ★★★ This is the most sophisticated hotel on Puerto Rico and one of the most exclusive and elegant small properties anywhere in the Caribbean.  The Relais & Châteaux property is set on 8 acres (3.2 hectares) and opens onto a secluded semiprivate beach.  Built on the massive breakwaters and seawalls erected as part of a century-old railroad, the hacienda evokes an aristocratic Spanish villa, with wicker armchairs, hand-painted tiles, ceiling fans, seaside terraces, and cascades of flowers.  The Primavera Suites and the Horned Dorset Residences ramble amid lush gardens.  Beautiful furnishings have been collected from all over the world, a tasteful meshing of Morroccan, Asian, and European pieces, with four-poster beds and brass-footed tubs (with showers) in marble-sheathed bathrooms.  Rooms are spacious and luxurious, with Persian rugs over tile floors, queen-size sofa beds in the sitting areas, and fine linens and tasteful fabrics on the elegant beds.  Some of the units have private plunge pools; others offer private verandas or sun decks.  Each contains high-quality reproductions of colonial furniture by Baker.  The hotel's two restaurants are excellent but quite pricey. 

Apt 1132, Rincón, PR 00677.  www.horneddorset.com.    800/633-1857 or 787/823-4030.  Fax 787/823-5580.  55 units.  Winter $596–$1,070 suites, $770–$1,385 residences; holidays $696–$1,270 suites, $970–$1,585 residences; off-season $360–$770 suites, $470–$880 residences.  15% hotel fee.  AE, MC, V. Free parking No children 11 and under.  Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; fitness center; kayaking (free); library; massage; 3 outdoor pools (1 infinity); room service.  In room: A/C, hair dryer. 

Expensive

Rincón Beach Resort ★ Romantic lovebirds and families check into this secluded hideaway.  At this beachfront resort, an open-air boardwalk stretches along the coastline at the end of an infinity pool.  It's perhaps the most welcoming place along the western coastline, with a sheltered beachfront.  The staff can help you arrange everything from watersports to golf.  Guests meet fellow guests in the lobby bar, and later enjoy a savory Caribbean cuisine in Brasas Restaurant, with its open-air terrace.  You're given a choice of oceanview or poolview units, and can also rent well-furnished one- and two-bedroom apartments.  The decor is tropical throughout, with vibrant colors.  It is in a remote location, far from the most traveled Rincón beaches and the center of town, but with a great restaurant, poolside bar and grill, watersports, and other activities, it does not matter.  Wherever you stay in this town, it's just a quick ride to surf, dive, or party.  Don't expect the clockwork efficiency of bigger resorts, but you won't miss it.  The staff is incredibly friendly and helpful, more than willing to fulfill any request, and you'll feel welcomed like a family member. 

Rte.  115, Km 5.8, Añasco, PR 00610.  www.rinconbeach.com.    866/598-0009 or 787/589-9000.  Fax 787/589-9040.  118 units.  Winter $260–$300 double, $355 junior suite, $459 1-bedroom suite, $650 2-bedroom suite; summer $210–$250 double, $315 junior suite, $405 1-bedroom suite, $575 2-bedroom suite.  Rates include continental breakfast.  AE, DISC, MC, V. Free parking.  2 restaurants; 2 bars; gym; outdoor pool; meeting space and business center, high speed Internet, data-modem ports, rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, fridge, Internet access, kitchenettes in suites. 

Rincón of the Seas Grand Caribbean Hotel ★ This lush beachfront property draws a wildly diverse crowd, from island reggaeton producers to families.  From Connecticut suburbanites to surf bums to yuppie Wall Street investment bankers, you can meet anyone here.  The amenities are not quite on par with the Rincón Beach, but it has fabulous gardens and palm trees throughout the property, as well as a great pool area, beautiful beach, and central location.  The place has got style, and there's always a party going on somewhere, but there's also always someplace where you can go to chill out.  Its lobbies, terraces, and guestrooms are a blend of classic Caribbean and Art Deco style, which keeps things a bit modern and playful.  The beach and the pool area are among the finest in the area, and the staff is almost as friendly and hardworking as the folks at the Rincón Beach, where the rooms are plusher.  The Art Deco suites here are beautiful, but steeply priced.  You get a lot of bang for the buck here, though.  The restaurant has excellent food, and the pool bar is too much fun. 

Rte.  115, Km 12.2, Rincón, PR 00677.  www.rinconoftheseas.com.    866/274-6266 or 787/823-7500.  Fax 787/823-7500.  112 units.  $165–$175 double; $295 Art Deco suite.  Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; outdoor pool; meeting rooms and ballroom; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, Internet access, kitchenettes in suites. 

Moderate

Casa Isleña Inn ★   This oceanfront hacienda-style property has bright Caribbean colors and Spanish tiles and woodwork.  This is a private, tranquil world that offers large and comfortably furnished guest rooms, gorgeous terraces and patios, a great pool, and adjacent beach.  The Olympic-size pool is surrounded by a sundeck with lounge chairs and a row of palm trees fronting the beach.  You can see humpback whales migrating offshore in the winter, and the view goes out to the Mona Passage and the Aguadilla Bay.  Breakfast is served on the veranda, where a fine tapas restaurant operates from 3 to 9pm Tuesday through Sunday.  If you like being left alone, this is a great spot. 

Barrio Puntas Carretera Interior 413, Km 4, Rincón, PR 00677.  www.casa-islena.com.    888/289-7750 or 787/823-1525.  Fax 787/823-1530.  9 units (shower only).  Winter $165–$205 double, off-season $125–$165 double.  Extra person $25.  MC, V. Free parking.  Amenities: Tapas restaurant, bar; 1 room for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, no phone. 

La Rosa Inglesa This British bed-and-breakfast offers three attractive units (one double, one suite for two to four people, and a larger apartment for four or more guests.  The best part of staying here is the awesome breakfast served, which is included in the price.  The rooms and grounds are attractive enough, with a pleasant pool and great views.  Driving back here after a night on the town might be a challenge. 

Barrio Puntas, Carretera Interior 413, Km 2, Rincón.    787/823-4032.  $115 double; $145 suite; $200 apt.  Rates include breakfast.  MC, V. Free parking.  Amenities: Restaurant serving breakfast; bar; babysitting; pool; room service; Wi-Fi (in lobby).  In room: A/C, ceiling fan, TV, fully equipped kitchen. 

Lemontree Waterfront Suites ★   Right on a narrow sandy beach, these spacious apartments with kitchenettes are for those who don't want to limit themselves to hotel rooms and meals.  With the sound of the surf just outside your private back porch, these well-furnished seaside units can provide a home away from home, with everything from ceiling fans to air-conditioning, from paperback libraries to custom woodworking details.  The suites are not fancy, but they are comfortable enough.  Families enjoy the three-bedroom, two-bathroom oceanfront suite called "Papaya;" "Mango" and "Pineapple" are ideal for two persons.  Each unit contains a midsize, shower-only bathroom.  The least expensive units, "Banana" and "Coconut," are studio units for those who want a kitchen but don't require a living room.  There are studio, one-bedroom, and two-bedroom units as well.  Spa treatments are available as well as scuba-diving lessons.  The cottages lie a 10-minute drive west of Rincón. 

Rte.  4290 (P.O. Box 3200), Rincón, PR 00677.  www.lemontreepr.com.    888/418-8733 or 787/823-6452.  Fax 787/823-5821.  6 units (shower only).  Winter $145–$265; summer $125–$225; fall $115–$200.  3-night special rates are also offered from $387.  AE, MC, V. In room: A/C, TV, kitchenette. 

Tres Sirenas Beach Inn ★   This sumptuous, regal B&B opens onto Sandy Bottom Beach, giving you a chance to live in a certain tropical elegant style.  It's casual but oh, so tasteful.  A boutique hotel, the complex is sometimes rented as a private oceanfront villa to a dozen or so guests (high season $870 per night; low season $800).  Otherwise you have a choice of two spacious and elegantly furnished bedrooms or else two apartments, all with a certain old–Puerto Rican charm.  The pool studio is ideal for families, as it accommodates two adults and two children, and features a private balcony.  Apartments sleep four and come with a loft and full kitchen.  Innkeepers Lisa and Harry are wonderful hosts, attentive but never intrusive, and breakfast is delicious. 

Sea Beach Dr. 26, Rincón, PR 00677.  www.tressirenas.com.    787/823-0558.  4 units.  Winter $180 double, $225 studio, $280–$320 apts for 4; $1,205 entire inn nightly, $8,435 weekly.  Off-season $170 double, $205 studio, $285 apts for 4; $1,100 entire inn nightly, $7,000 weekly.  AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking.  Amenities: Hot tub, outdoor pool, room service; smoke-free rooms, Wi-Fi.  In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, kitchenette, minibar. 

Inexpensive

Beside the Pointe Guesthouse This tiny guesthouse sits on a lovely spot on the beach and has a popular tavern, restaurant, and shop on the grounds.  With only a handful of rooms though, this is probably not for everyone.  The small rooms have been tastefully redone, and it's right on a gorgeous spot on sandy beach.  If you do stay, choose one of the three upper level units for more privacy, great views, and use of a common sundeck.  The bar has been voted one of America's best by Esquire magazine, and the restaurant has great food.  This popular spot can get crowded and noisy, especially on weekends. 

Carretera (Rte.)  413, Km 4, Sandy Beach, Rincón.  www.besidethepointe.com.    888/823-8550.  Fax 787/823-8550.  8 units.  Winter $110–$170 double, $185–$210 apt; off-season $85–$140 double, $165–$190 apt.  AE, MC, V. Free parking.  Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Wi-Fi (in lobby).  In room: A/C, TV, fridge, kitchenette (suites). 

The Lazy Parrot Set within an unlikely inland neighborhood, this place is nonetheless one of the best spots in Rincón to stay.  It's one of the only hotels on Carretera (Rte.)  413, the so-called "road to happiness" because it's the main road to town from the rest of Puerto Rico.  It looks like a nondescript storefront from outside, but climb its stairs and you enter an oasis of tropical tranquillity. " Value" rooms are located on the first floor.  They are clean, well-organized, and comfortable, if not overly large.  They have no view, but each either has a deck, patio, or balcony, and all have an attractive decor of light, natural colors.  The upstairs "panoramic" rooms have a view to the pretty Cadena Hills and the coast, and overlook the pool area.  These are also larger and have upgraded facilities such as flatscreen TVs.  Definitely pay the extra cost for an upstairs room if privacy is important to you.  The other rooms are close to the interior lobby and restaurant.  Behind the main building, you'll descend into an immense open, interior area overlooking the distant hills, where the sprawling pool and deck area are located.  There are also a store, the main office, and the Rum Shack bar-restaurant.  The Lazy Parrot restaurant has a dining room overlooking the pool area and interior courtyard and is among the best eateries in Rincón.  The Rum Shack, which serves light fare and drinks poolside, can be a lot of fun at night.  This is one of the better-managed properties in town.  Its inland location is not a drawback; you need a car rental anyway, as you will want to travel to a different beach each day.  The pool area is among the best in town. 

Rte.  413, Km 4.1, Barrio Puntas, Rincón, PR 00677.  www.lazyparrot.com.    800/294-1752 or 787/823-5654.  Fax 787/823-0224.  21 units.  $125 double value rooms; $165 double panoramic rooms (smallest room goes for $99 single or double).  Rates include continental breakfast.  AE, DISC, MC, V. Parking available across the street.  Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; pool; room service; Wi-Fi (in lobby).  In room: A/C, TV, fridge. 

Villa Cofresi   The staff at this clean, family-run hotel make their money the old-fashioned way: making guests feel welcome.  That warm hospitality will linger in your memory despite the hotel's many other attributes: clean and airy rooms with comfortable furnishings, a beautiful beachfront location and wonderful facilities, including an outdoor pool and sun terrace, lively bar, and excellent restaurant overlooking the coast and a game room.  The units have white-tile floors and small bathrooms with tubs and showers.  Most rooms have two double beds; some have two twin beds.  All are smoke-free.  The two units that tend to be reserved out long in advance are nos.  47 and 55, which have windows opening directly onto the sea.  The in-house restaurant serves hardy local cooking, such as mofongo stuffed with seafood, breaded scampi served either with Creole sauce or garlic, and very good steaks.  This beachfront bar/cafe is the place to be on sunny Sunday afternoons for a fun happy hour. 

Rte.  115, Km 12, Rincón, PR 00677.  www.villacofresi.com.    787/823-2450.  Fax 787/823-1770.  80 units.  $125–$175 double, $135–$165 suite; $170–$200 apt (2 bedrooms).  Free parking.  Amenities: Restaurant; bar; outdoor pool; room service; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer. 

Beach chic: Shopping in Rincón

Nothing heralds Rincón's arrival as a real tourism destination more than the fact that it is now safe to shop here.  It's still a west coast beach town, so surf shops still rule, but they are now as much about fashion as function.  Nothing shows that more than Natty Surf Boutique & Gallery (  787/823-7000, at Sunset Village), which has a large beach-fashion collection for women, an art gallery, other beach apparel, and surfboards.  Sunset Village is a modern beachfront structure, which is home to other shops and restaurants and is located right near the town's public beach.  It's located on Calle Cambija, next to Rincón public beach. 

Meanwhile, several properties, from higher-end guest houses to the larger hotels, have been upgrading their shops, stocking fashionable clothes, island fine art, gourmet foods, and coffee, jewelry, and much more beyond basic necessities. 

If you need anything, from a sarong to a pair of sandals, head to the Mango Beach Shop (  787/823-2100) in Puntas, and you will find it. 

A number of galleries have also sprung up in town, some of single artists, some serious fine-art ventures, and others a mix of original art and jewelry and fashion items.  The Playa Oeste Tropical Surf Art Gallery & Gift Shop (Carretera (Rte.)  413, Km 0.5;   787/823-4424), has fine art, photography, jewelry, and other crafts. 

Perhaps nowhere is the upgrading of the Rincón retail scene more evident than at its traditional town square, which now has free Wi-Fi along with the Catholic church, and some chic shops interspersed between the bakery, local restaurant, and bar.  Etnica, behind the Catholic church, Calle Sol 8 (  787/823-2077), has the wonder of an Arabian bazaar with world fashion finds, rugs and fabrics, jewelry, handbags and sandals, and lots of cool souvenirs.  In short, there's no real reason to travel to Mayagüez or Aguadilla to shop anymore. 

If you want to really shop till you drop, then go the distance to Barceloneta to the area's grandest shopping experience at Prime Outlets (  787/846-5300, 1 Prime Outlets Blvd.).  More than 90 stores, including Coach, Adidas, Kenneth Cole, and Ralph Lauren, offer factory outlet prices of up to 65% off from a beautiful mall that feels like a downtown village.  The outlet mall is open Monday through Saturday 9am to 9pm and Sundays 11am to 7pm.  To get there, take PR 2 (Highway 2) north to Arecibo, where you will get on the De Diego Expressway 22 towards San Juan.  Take the exit (salida) 55 in Barceloneta for the Prime Outlets. 

Aguadilla & the Northwest

Aguadilla is the biggest town on Puerto Rico's northwest corner, which is filled with great beaches and other natural blessings for an active vacation experience.  And it makes a good base from which to explore the area, with lots of hotels, restaurants, good infrastructure, a fairly large mall, and lots of attractions, such as a water park and golf course. 

Several airlines now run direct flights to the town's Rafael Hernández Airport, especially during the high season.  It's the island's second international airport after Luis Muñoz Marín in San Juan.  So visitors who want to spend their whole vacation in the west don't have to go through San Juan.  Puerto Rico's best surfing spots run from Rincón south of here, around the northwest corner to Isabela and points east along the north coast. 

The region also is near such major attractions as the Arecibo Observatory and the Río Camuy Cave Park (see chapter 6).  In addition to its coast, there are mountain forests and lakes nearby.  Aguadilla has an ice-skating rink, water park, and a very reasonably priced golf course, adding to its family appeal. 

Crash Boat beach is popular, and gets crowded on weekends, but during the week it's usually quiet and picturesque.  There are a few beach shacks and stands selling seafood, snacks, and cold drinks, and brightly colored wooden fishing boats are often parked on the beach.  There's a former Navy fueling pier on the beach, where aquamarine water kisses the white sand.  In winter, the northern end of the beach faces open water and is much rougher.  Waves at Aguadilla's beaches are among the fiercest in the island, carrying in them the full force of the Atlantic. 

Aguadilla is more than its beaches.  It's coming into its own in other ways.  With an international airport, several offshore companies with operations here, and a large U.S. Coast Guard presence, it's one of the island's more prosperous areas.  You can see this in the renovations taking place in Aguadilla's historic downtown waterfront district, and the continual growth in new hotels, restaurants, shops, and services for tourists each year. 

The Isabela coastline is also beautiful.  Narrow country roads weave between cliffs and white beaches, set off by dramatic rock formations and submerged coral reefs that send surf crashing skyward.  This is an area of salt-water wells and blowholes, through which dramatic eruptions of saltwater spew from submerged sea caves.  Several are found in the area known as La Princesa, and Jobos Beach is home to the most famous, El Pozo de Jacinto, which is located on a huge rock formation at the eastern end of Jobos Beach.  There is a local legend surrounding the sinkhole, where the strong ocean currents blast through the huge opening, so that it has become something of a tourist attraction.  Visitors should be warned, climbing out to see El Pozo can be very dangerous, as the rocks are slippery.  They also must respect the power of the sea, as local riptides have caused the drowning deaths of many area swimmers. 

Jobos Beach, the heart and soul of the Isabela-Aguadilla coastline, is a large beach with a famed surf break, which cuts from its eastern to western end, but swimmers can frolic along more protected areas along this mammoth shore.  There are also guesthouses and restaurants here, and on summer and holiday weekends it's got a party atmosphere. 

For many reasons, the eastern end of Jobos is the place to be.  An area at the base of the rock formation is partially sheltered from the strong ocean currents and is the best place for casual bathing.  Even if you want to surf, you can walk out to the end of the rock formation, as it's a point break here.  Surfers catch waves that crash at an angle towards the coastline, so the waves stretch across Jobos Beach as they make their way to shore.  Finally, this is the closest spot to the Sonia Rican Café (  787/872-1818), a beachfront dive serving the coldest beer, tastiest seafood, and comida criolla in the area; it's an institution in the northwest.  Have a cold beer at the beachfront bar (forget the inside dining room where T-shirts are required), and feel the bliss that gripped Anthony Bourdain during his lost weekend here.  The food is truly excellent, from the fried-fish turnovers to the seafood mofongo, and it's the perfect spot to find out whatever you want to learn about the area.  The bar is full of amiable characters, especially on sunny weekends, and there's brash salsa on the jukebox. 

Further east, Montones Beach has rock outcroppings and reefs that make a beguiling seascape and also protect the water from the raging surf in this area.  You won't find the restaurants and bars here that you will in Jobos, but you can find your own secluded spot on the beach. 

Area development, however, appears to be accelerating, and newly built condominiums and other properties have marred access to some beaches.  There are still miles of open beachfront though, and most development is confined to small hotels and low-slung villas. 

The good surfing, and increasingly the burgeoning northwest beach culture, extends east beyond Arecibo to Barceloneta and Manatí.  East of Isabela, steep cliffs drop in flat jagged lines to the rough surf along the rugged Atlantic coastline of Quebradillas.  Guajataca Beach, named after a powerful Taíno Indian chief, is a great spot, but think twice about swimming here.  The currents are extremely powerful and dangerous, and while surfers love it, casual swimmers should proceed with caution.  The white sand is as smooth as silk though, so it's a great spot for sunbathing and watching the surfers risking all and loving every minute of it.  It's also a great spot for seashell collecting.  The beach is also called El Tunel because there's a large abandoned railroad tunnel carved out of a mountain at the entrance to the beach.  It was once part of a railroad that ran all around the Puerto Rico coast to haul sugar cane.  There is a parking area here and a no-frills, open-air restaurant and bar.  It's a nice shady spot, a cool respite from the sun-bleached beach. 

Essentials

Getting There & Getting Around Both JetBlue and Continental have nonstop flights from East Coast destinations, particularly from New York and Florida, direct to the Rafael Hernández Airport (Antigua Base Ramey, Hangar 405, Aguadilla;   787/891-2226).  Many other flights offer connections from San Juan onto Aguadilla. 

There are branches of Avis (  787/890-3311), Budget (  787/890-1110), and Hertz (  787/833-3170) at the Aguadilla airport. 

If you're driving from San Juan, travel west on the De Diego Expressway, Rte.  22, then Rte.  2 (trip time: 2 hr.). 

Visitor Information There is a Puerto Rico Tourism Company office in Aguadilla for the whole northwest region, from Mayagüez in the south through Isabela on the north coast (  787/890-3315). 

Watersports & Other Outdoor Pursuits

While Rincón has wider name recognition, Aguadilla and Isabela have equally good surf spots.  In fact, the Puerto Rican Pipeline is actually composed of beaches in the three towns.  Gas Chambers, Crash Boat, Surfer's, and Wilderness rule in Aguadilla, while the preferred spots in Isabela include Jobos, Middles, and Shacks.  The best time to surf is from November through March, but summer storms can also kick up the surf.  In the summer season, however, when the waves diminish, these northwest beaches double as perfect spots for windsurfing and snorkeling, with calm waters filled with coral reefs and marine life.  The towns are quite close together, and the string of beaches through both really forms a single destination. 

Shacks draws snorkelers and scuba divers, who all converge on one section of the large beach filled with reefs and coral caverns that teem with rainbow-hued fish.  It's also the best spot in the area for kite-boarding and windsurfing. 

The good surfing extends east from Isabela to Arecibo, and beyond out to Barceloneta and Manatí, and really all the way into San Juan. 

Aquatic Dive and Surf (Rte.  110, Km 10, outside gate 5 of Rafael Hernández Airport, Aguadilla;   787/890-6071) is a full-service dive and surf shop, but it also rents equipment and gives lessons in scuba and surfing.  The outfit also runs mountain-bike excursions to the Guajataca Forest.  Prices depend on season and group size, but surf lessons cost from $50 to $65 for 1 1/2 hours, and a two-tank scuba dive is from $75 to $125.  Bicycle tours cost around $65 per person and last up to 3 hours.  Surf and scuba equipment rentals run from $20 to $45 per day, while bicycles are $25 per day. 

The Hang Loose Surf Shop (Rte.  4466, Km 1.2, Jobos Beach, Isabela;   787/872-2490; Tues–Sun 10am–5pm) is well stocked with equipment.  It gives surf lessons ($60 per hour private lesson) and rents boards for $25 daily.  The shop is owned by Werner Vega, a great big-wave rider, who is one of Puerto Rico's premier board shapers. 

Tropical Trail Rides (Rte.  4466, Km 1.9, Isabela,   787/872-9256) gives excellent horseback riding tours along the undeveloped Isabela coast.  The basic 2-hour tour ($50 per person) brings you through an almond forest, along deserted beaches, and explores an area of coastal caves.  This is the place to fulfill that horseback-riding-on-the-beach fantasy. 

The Northwest has more going for it than its beaches, however.  That's especially so with Aguadilla, which has converted many of the old facilities of the former Ramey Air Force Base and put them to good public use (such as developing an international airport on a portion of it).  Punta Borinquén Golf Club, Rte.  107 (  787/890-2987), 2 miles (3.2km) north of Aquadilla's center, across the highway from the city's airport, was originally built by the U.S. government as part of Ramey Air Force Base.  Today it is a public 18-hole golf course, open daily from 7am to 7pm.  Greens fees are a bargain at $20 per round; a golf cart that can carry two passengers rents for $30 for 18 holes.  A set of clubs can be rented for $15.  The clubhouse has a bar and a simple restaurant.  It's also a nice course with coastal views.  Parque Aquatico las Cascadas (Hwy.  2, Km 126.5, Aguadilla;   787/819-0950 or 819-1030) is a water park run by the municipality that the kids will love.  There are giant slides and tubes and the Río Loco rapids pool.  From May through September, it's open 10am to 5pm daily.  It opens again in winter on weekends from 10am to 5pm.  Tickets are $20 for adults and $18 for kids ages 4 to 12. 

You probably did not come to Puerto Rico to go ice skating, but you can do it at the Aguadilla Ice Skating Rink (Hwy.  442;   787/819-5555, ext.  221).  This is another city-run facility open from 10am to 6:30pm, and then from 7 to 11:30pm.  It's popular with kids and is a training facility for island figure skaters.  Cost is $10 per hour during the day and $13 per hour in the evening (including skates). 

Isabela enjoys a reputation for horse breeding.  This activity is centered on Arenales, south of the town, where a number of horse stables are located. 

Where to Stay & Eat

Marriott Courtyard Aguadilla   The whole family will love this hotel with pool, aquatics playground, and spacious guest rooms near some of the prettiest beaches on the island, and right around such attractions as the Camuy Caves, Arecibo Observatory, local water park, and ice-skating rink.  Beautiful beaches ring the coast here from Isabela to the east and Rincón to the west.  It's built on the old Ramey Air Force Base near a coastal suburb.  Great location and facilities make a good base to explore the northwest.  The hotel was built for the business people who visit the area's international manufacturing plants, and the related facilities are top rate.  The hotel restaurants are quite good, especially the friendly local services. 

West Parade/Belt Road Antigua Base Ramey, Aguadilla, PR 00603.  www.marriott.com.    800/321-2211 or 787/658-8000.  Fax 787/658-8020.  152 units.  $177–$209 double; $219–$283 suite.  AE, MC, V. Parking $8 daily.  Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; babysitting; fitness center; 2 pools; room service; Wi-Fi.  In room: A/C, TV, Internet access. 

Ocean Front Hotel and Restaurant   The rooms are Spartan, but when they front this beautiful of a beach, who cares?  About half the rooms here have an ocean view, so request one.  You stumble out of your room right onto the middle of Jobos.  The price is also right, and there is a beautiful sundeck and terrace, a great bar, and a good restaurant.  And you've got live music on weekends.  During the week, the sound of the sea and the smell of the surf guarantee you a great night's sleep.  Location, location, location! 

Carretera 4466, Km 0.1, Jobos Beach, Isabela, PR 00662.    787/872-0444.  Fax 787/830-2482.  25 units (shower only).  $85–$125 double; $125–$150 quad.  AE, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar.  In room: A/C, TV. 

One-Ten Thai   THAI This evocative, unpretentious restaurant serves delicious Thai food and handcrafted beers from around the world.  It also has on tap the Old Harbor brew made in Old San Juan.  The menu is split between stir fry platters, noodle dishes, and curry bowls, and my family and I love them all.  I literally had tears in my eyes the first time I discovered that quality Thai existed in Puerto Rico.  And I have been coming here to cry in my green or red curry whenever I'm in the area ever since.  The place is small and fills up on weekend evenings.  Another wonderful sign that suburban Aguadilla is getting more urbane.  Eat in or take out. 

Carretera 110, Km 0.1, Jobos Beach, Isabela, PR 00662.    787/890-0113.  Reservations not accepted.  AE, MC, V. Main course $10–$14.  Wed–Sun 5–10pm. 

Parador El Guajataca   Sure the view is great, but that's no reason to stay here or at the Parado Vistamar nearby.  Stop for lunch or a drink, for sure, but you are better off pushing on ahead to your ultimate destination.  The food is only okay, but it's served in a glassed-in dining room where all windows face the sea, which is the real reason to be here.  Both properties specialize in local weddings, and really don't offer the quality accommodations most visitors expect.  But the view is a killer. 

Rte.  2, Km 103.8 (P.O. Box 1558), Quebradillas, PR 00678.  www.elguajataca.com.    800/965-3065 or 787/895-3070.  Fax 787/895-3589.  38 units.  $130–$165 double.  AE, MC, V. From Quebradillas, continue northwest on Rte.  2 for 1 mile (1.6km); the parador is signposted.  Hotel advertises specials as low as $82.  Amenities: Restaurant; bar; 2 pools; room service.  In room: A/C, TV. 

Villa Montana Beach Resort ★   This breathtaking property is set on a 35-acre (14-hectare) beachfront plot.  The rooms and villas are spread across Caribbean-style plantation buildings with large verandas and balconies.  The buildings have cathedral ceilings, peaked tin roofs, and interior courtyards.  The facades use muted pastel colors, and rooms are beautifully decorated in a subdued tropical aesthetic using large terra-cotta tiles.  There are two beautiful pools and a 3-mile (4.8km) beach, where every watersport you can imagine is possible to practice.  You can also hike through tropical forests, ride horses, go biking, or use the climbing wall on the property.  There's a health club, spa, and sports facilities such as basketball courts.  Eclipse serves arty and tasty meals for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, while O is a tapas bar and lounge open in the evenings.  The grounds are lush and beautiful, and there are numerous tropical birds.  Guests can also have a picnic and bonfire on the beach here.  This is a place to kick way back. 

Carretera 4466, Km 1.9, Barrio Bajuras, Isabela, PR 00662.  www.villamontana.com.    888/780-9195 or 787/872-9554.  Fax 787/872-9553.  60 units.  $200–$400 double; $400–$600 villas.  AE, MC, V. Free parking.  Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; basketball, climbing wall; 2 pools; spa; tennis court; volleyball court.  In room: A/C, ceiling fans, TV, kitchenette (in villas). 

Villas del Mar Hau ★   Opening onto a long, secluded beach, this family-friendly parador complex is peppered with typical Puerto Rican country cottages in vivid Caribbean pastels with Victorian wood trim.  The location is midway between the west coast cities of Arecibo in the east and Aguadilla in the west, right outside the smaller town of Isabela.  Under the shelter of Casuarina pine trees, most guests spend their days lying on Playa Montones.  The huge tidal "wading" pool is ideal for children.  The place is unpretentious but not completely back-to-nature, as the beachfront cottages are well furnished and equipped, each with a balcony and with capacities for two to six guests.  Neighboring developments have grown up around this vacation compound, which has also expanded over the years.  Some rooms have ceiling fans, others have air-conditioning, and all units are equipped with small, tiled, shower-only bathrooms.  Since 1960, the Hau family has run this little beach inn.  The on-site restaurant is well known in the area for its seafood and meats. 

Carretera 4466, Km 8.3, Playa Montones, Isabela, PR 00662.  www.hauhotelvillas.com.    787/830-8315.  Fax 787/830-4988.  42 units (shower only).  Winter/weekends $150–$160 double, $185–$230 cottage; off-season/weekdays $100–$140 double, $165–$200 cottage.  AE, MC, V. Free parking.  From the center of Isabella, take Rte.  466 toward Aguadilla.  Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; barbecue area; horseback riding; pool w/snack bar; tennis; watersports/equipment rentals.  In room: A/C, TV (in most rooms), kitchenette. 

The Western Mountains

The west is also a good area to head up into the mountains, and Maricao, west of Mayagüez, is one of the prettiest of Puerto Rico's mountain towns.  You can reach Maricao from Mayagüez, but you'll have to take a number of routes heading east.  First take Rte.  106 east to Rte.  119.  Turn right onto Rte.  119.  Take this until the community of Las Vegas, then turn left on Rte.  357 toward Maricao, which you will reach when you intersect with Rte.  105.  The scenery is beautiful, but the roads are narrow and the going is slow.  It's quicker to head south along Hwy.  2 to Sabana Grande, and then take Hwy.  120 directly to Maricao. 

One of the nicest spots is the Monte del Estado National Park (Rte.  120, Km 13.2;   787/873-5632), a picnic area and campground in the Maricao Forest, with wonderful pools fed by mountain streams.  The stone observation tower, at 2,600 feet (792m) above sea level, provides a panoramic view across the green mountains up to the coastal plains, and you can see clear out to Mona Island.  Nearly 50 species of birds live in this forest, including the Lesser Antillean pewee and the scaly-naped pigeon.  Nature watchers will delight to know that there are some 280 tree species in this reserve, 38 of which are found only here.  The area has about 18 rivers and creeks running through the forest. 

Maricao is coffee country, and there are several plantations and historic plantation houses in the town. 

Nearby is Lares, which has a lovely central plaza with shady trees and scattered tropical gardens.  The plaza, La Plaza de la Revolucíon, is named after one of the few nationalist uprisings in Puerto Rican history.  El Grito de Lares ("The Cry of Lares") took place when hundreds of Puerto Rican patriots seized the town from the Spanish on September 28, 1868.  While a republic of Puerto Rico was declared, the Spanish quickly resumed control.  Today, thousands of independence supporters come here to commemorate the event each year on its September 28 anniversary.  Surrounded by mountains and green valleys, it is one of the island's prettiest towns, though it lacks hotels and attractions for tourists. 

From Isabela, you can visit Lago de Guajataca and the Guajataca Forest Reserve, which are located in the mountains south of town. 

Before heading into Bosque Estatal de Guajataca (Guajataca Forest) ★★, you can stop in at the Departamento de Recursos Naturales y Ambienta Oficina, Rte.  446, Km 9, Barrio Llanadas (  787/872-1045 or 787/999-2000), which is open daily 7am to 3:30pm.  The office has a stock of detailed hiking routes through the forest reserve.  Guajataca Forest sprawls across nearly 2,400 acres (971 hectares) of forestland, rising and falling at various elevations, ranging from 500 to 1,000 feet (152–305m) or more.  The woodland in the forest is punctuated by mogotes (tropical cone and tower karsts) and covered with 25 miles (40km) of hiking trails.  It is also home to the endangered Puerto Rico boa (you are unlikely to encounter one) and is the habitat of nearly 50 different species of birds.  The highlight of the forest is the Cueva del Viento, the "Cave of the Wind."  The hiking trails have been well marked by park rangers. 

Reaching the lake from the forest can be difficult.  Take Rte.  446 south until you reach Rte.  119.  The Lago de Guajatac ★, one of the most majestic bodies of water on Puerto Rico, is our favorite lake for some R&R on the island.  It is both a 4-mile-long (6.4km) body of water and a wildlife refuge.  For a scenic look at the lake, drive along its north shore, a haven for island freshwater anglers.  You can go fishing here, but you have to bring your own equipment.  The most sought-after fish is tucunare, with which the lake is stocked.  At the dam here, you can gaze upon an evocative "lost valley" of conical peaks. 

Where to Stay & Eat

Cafe Rustica PUERTO RICAN On the road out of Mayagüez, where Puerto Rico's famed Panoramic Route begins, this refined country kitchen delivers tasty local and continental fare in an attractive setting in the lush foothills of the Cordillera Central.  The house specialty is a chicken breast stuffed with lobster and shrimp and wrapped in bacon and a garlic cream sauce.  There are also grilled churrasco, fresh fish, and many other standards served up right here. 

Rte.  105, Km 9.1, Barrio Limón, Mayagüez.    787/834-5653.  MC, V. Reservations not accepted.  MC, V. Main course $8–$24.  Tues–Thurs 11am–2pm, Fri–Sat 11am–9pm, Sun 10:30am–9pm. 

Centro Vacacional Monte del Estado ★   Basic cabins sleep up to six and are outfitted with full kitchens, beds, chimneys, barbecue pits, and picnic tables.  The forest and views are beautiful, and there are thermal baths in the reserve near the cabins.  It's a great spot for bird-watching and hiking (see the description of the forest earlier in this chapter).  The basic units are equipped with a water heater and fireplace.  Each

Carretera 120, Km 13.2, Maricao.    787/873-5632.  24 units.  $65–72 cabins (4–6 people); $400–$600 villas.  MC, V. Free parking.  Amenities: Basketball court; game room with ping pong and billiards; 2 pools.  In-room: Kitchen. 
Chapter 9: Eastern Puerto Rico

The northeast corner of the island, less than an hour from San Juan, contains the island's major attractions: El Yunque rainforest, two of the world's rare bioluminescent bays whose waters glow at night, and several great beaches, including Luquillo Beach (see chapter 6 as well).  There are a variety of landscapes, ranging from miles of forest to palm groves and beachside settlements.  Here, you will find one of the best resorts on the island, El Conquistador Resort, which literally sits on the northeast corner of Puerto Rico, where the Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea meet. 

At Fajardo, a preeminent sailor's haven, you can catch ferries to the nearby island municipalities of Vieques and Culebra (see chapter 10).  The east coast city is actually the start of a chain of islands, moving onwards to the island towns and weaving along the neighboring U.S. and British Virgin Islands and beyond.  The area forms perhaps the greatest pleasure-boating area in the world. 

The Navy completed its exodus from Roosevelt Roads base south of Fajardo in 2004, and the government is proposing a massive tourism development, but for the moment Ceiba and Naguabo are sleepy, quaint towns that are worth a look. 

Halfway down the coast is Humacao, home to Palmas del Mar Resort, an ever-growing resort and upscale vacation-home community on a wildly gorgeous beachfront, with a Sheraton Five Points hotel.  Visitors can also rent private vacation homes and villas throughout the resort, which sprawls across 2,700 acres (1,093 hectares) and has a yacht club, equestrian center, the Caribbean's largest tennis center, a beach and country clubs, great beaches, and lush tropical grounds.  Plenty of watersports activities are available.  Luxury residences, used as both vacation properties and year-round homes, are divided into distinct communities.  Palmas also has its own school and post office. 

The José Celso Barbosa Expressway 53 heads south from Humacao and then joins Rte.  3, and turns the southeast corner of Puerto Rico towards Guayama and Puerto Rico's long Caribbean coast, which is actually at its prettiest at its eastern and western extremes. 

At Yabucoa, take the coastal Rte.  901, which switches back and forth along oceanfront cliffs and sleepy coastal villages, to experience one of the most breathtaking series of views on the island.  The road continues to hug the coast as it reconnects with Hwy.  3 and rounds the southeast corner of Puerto Rico to Guayama.  There are several nice beaches. 

This once important sugar town has long since been converted into an industrial and commercial center, but time stands still at its downtown plaza, which has beautiful Spanish colonial architecture, restored buildings, and a provincial air. 

Fajardo

35 miles (56km) E of San Juan

Eastern Puerto Rico

A huge submerged coral reef off Fajardo's coast protects its southeastern waters, which are also blessed by trade winds—a sailors' delight.  The Caribbean waters here are run through with coral and marine life, from barracudas and nurse sharks to shimmering schools of tropical fish, making this area a diving and snorkeling paradise. 

There are dozens of small islands off the coast of this eastern town.  Fajardo itself has untrammeled beaches surrounded by wilderness, with great snorkeling and scuba opportunities right offshore.  It also has a bioluminescent bay and other natural wonders.  Its unvarnished town center has atmospheric bars and cafetíns serving up cold drinks and tasty Creole cooking at bargain prices. 

There are seven marinas in town, and with reason: Fajardo is the first of a string of ports extending to Vieques and Culebra, the U.S. and British Virgin Islands, and the Windward island chain, the pleasure-boating capital of the Caribbean.  There are also gorgeous beaches, snorkeling spots, and untamed forest. 

Las Croabas, a seafront village within the municipality, is the site of the El Conquistador Resort & Golden Door Spa, a leader in luxury since its casino was used as the setting for pivotal scenes in the 1964 James Bond classic film Goldfinger.  Today, the Mediterranean-inspired fantasy resort has its own funicular, water park, several pools in a breathtaking setting, a marina, a private ferry, and private island with caverns, nature trails, horseback riding and watersports, plus classically beautiful beaches.  The resort is divided into a main hotel, an upscale Andalusian village, and two modern resort communities, all tied together with lush landscaping.  It also has full sports, spa, health, and beauty facilities. 

The resort sprawls across a dramatic cliff and down along a harbor area, overlooking the coast with an infinite view of water stretching out from all sides.  The back terraces and circular casino share the view, as do the leveled infinity pools stretching across the bluff.  The buildings are wrought with Mediterranean motifs, from blooming Spanish courtyards to elegant neoclassical facades and fountains.  A tramway takes guests down to sea level and the resort marina, and a ferry takes guests to the resort's beach on an offshore island. 

Las Croabas is a charming fishing village, with boats tied up at harbor and open-air seafood restaurants.  Many are clustered along Rte.  987 at the entrances of the Seven Seas public beach and Las Cabezas de San Juan Nature Reserve, over 300 acres (121 hectares) of dry forest, virgin coast, and mangrove swamp.  It also borders the exquisite bioluminescent bay, with glowing nocturnal waters.  The restored 19th-century lighthouse still functions.  The road ends in a circle, which wraps around a park at the village harbor.  Several operators rent kayaks for daytime snorkeling trips or evening trips to the bio bay at the adjacent nature reserve.  You can paddle across the bay and through mangrove canals to make it to the bio bay. 

To the lighthouse: Exploring Las Cabezas de San Juan Nature Reserve

Las Cabezas de San Juan Nature Reserve is better known as El Faro, or "the Lighthouse."  Located in the northeastern corner of the island, it is one of the most beautiful and important areas in Puerto Rico.  Here you'll find seven ecological systems and a restored 19th-century Spanish colonial lighthouse.  From the lighthouse observation deck, majestic views extend to islands as far off as St. Thomas in the U.S. Virgin Islands. 

Surrounded on three sides by the Atlantic Ocean, the 316-acre (128-hectare) site encompasses forestland, mangroves, lagoons, beaches, cliffs, offshore cays, and coral reefs.  Boardwalk trails wind through the fascinating topography.  Ospreys, sea turtles, and an occasional manatee are seen from the windswept promontories and rocky beach. 

The nature reserve is open Wednesday through Sunday.  Reservations are required; for reservations during the week, call   787/722-5882; during the weekend, reserve by calling   787/860-2560 (weekend reservations must be made on the day of your visit).  Admission is $8 for adults, $5 for children 13 and under, and $5 for seniors.  Guided 2 1/2-hour tours are conducted at 9:30, 10, and 10:30am, and 2pm (in English at 2pm). 

Laguna Grande, within the reserve, is one of the world's best bioluminescent bays, along with one on the neighboring island of Vieques.  The presence of multitudes of tiny organisms, called dinoflagellates, in the protected bay is responsible for the nocturnal glow of its waters.  They feed off the red mangroves surrounding the water.  Kayaking through the bay at night should be on your bucket list.  We highly recommend Las Tortugas Adventures, P.O. Box 1637, Canóvanas 00729 (  787/636-8356 or 809-0253; <http://kayak-pr.com>).  Gary Horne is one of the most experienced guides in Puerto Rico; he's a certified dive master and coast guard veteran.  There are two nightly tours of the bay at 6 and 8pm Monday through Saturday, which cost $45 per person—or daytime kayak and snorkel adventures for $75, which we highly recommend as well.  Another option is a kayak adventure along the Río Espirtu Santo, a beautiful river through El Yunque rainforest. 

Getting There

El Conquistador staff members greet guests at the San Juan airport and transport them to the resort.  Guests can take a taxi to the resort for $80, but that's more than the roundtrip fare aboard the plush resort shuttle from Luis Muñoz Marín Airport ($74 adults, $54 for children 12 and under—for hotel guests only).  If you're driving from San Juan, head east along the new Rte.  66 Corridor Noreste highway and then Rte.  3 toward Fajardo.  At the intersection, cut northeast on Rte.  195 and continue to the intersection with Rte.  987, at which point you turn north.  To fully enjoy all El Conquistador's offerings, you'll probably want to stay there for several days.  You might want to rent a car from Fajardo for only part of your stay, and take the shuttle to and from the airport. 

Outdoor Activities

In addition to the lovely beach and the many recreational facilities that are part of El Conquistador, there are other notable places to play in the vicinity. 

Some of the best snorkeling in Puerto Rico is in and around Fajardo.  Its public beach, Playa Seven Seas, is an attractive and sheltered strip of sand.  The beach lies on the southwestern shoreline of Las Cabezas peninsula and is crowded on weekends, but the snorkeling is fine, especially on its western and eastern extremities. 

At the western end of this beach and along a half-mile dirt path cutting though a wooded mount, you'll come to another path through shrub forest heading to Playa Escondido (Hidden Beach), a small white-sand cover with coral reefs in aquamarine waters right off this beach. 

If you continue straight for another mile, you will come to the gorgeous El Convento Beach, stretching out along the miles-long undeveloped coastline between Fajardo and Luquillo.  When the surf is calm, this is some of the best snorkeling off mainland Puerto Rico shores. 

The area has managed to ward off development despite the building craze taking place across much of the rest of Puerto Rico, with only a few unmarked dirt roads providing access, and paths such as the one from Seven Seas.  The area is a nesting ground for endangered sea turtles, and its waters teem with reefs and fish.  A small forest runs along much of the beach, and behind it stands the imposing El Yunque rainforest, looming over the white-sand beach and pristine blue waters.  About a mile down the beach is the governor's official beach house, El Convento, a rustic wooden cottage.  Just beyond the cottage is a great spot to snorkel.  The water plunges steeply just offshore and is pocked with large reefs, which draw even large fish close to shore. 

Environmentalists have pushed to protect this area from development, while developers want to build two large resorts.  The administration is currently drawing up boundaries of a proposed nature reserve, which is to allow some "low-impact" tourism back from the coast. 

To get here, you can hike from Fajardo's Seven Seas Public Beach, outside the resort just before Las Croabas village.  It's a 2-mile (3km) hike through a trail in the shrub forest on its eastern end to El Convento Beach, a miles-long stretch of largely untouched beachfront, home to sea turtles and reef-studded waters with great snorkeling.  The official vacation home of Puerto Rico's governor is the only development to speak of.  The dirt road leading to it is the only road near the beach, one of the reasons it has been able to escape the stampede of development that has remade most of Puerto Rico over the last several decades. 

Tennis The seven Har-Tru courts at El Conquistador ★★ are among the best tennis courts in Puerto Rico, rivaling those at Palmas del Mar. The staff at the pro shop are extremely helpful to beginning players.  Courts are the least crowed during the hottest part of the day, around the lunch hour.  If you're a single traveler to the resort and in search of a player, the pro shop will try to match you up with a player of equal skill. 

Watersports Several operators offer day sailing trips (10am–3pm) from Fajardo marinas, which include sailing, snorkeling, swimming, and a stop at one of the island beaches, where lunch is usually served.  It's the easiest way to really experience the Caribbean marine world while in Puerto Rico.  Prices, including lunch and equipment, start from $69 per person.  The trips are aboard luxury catamarans, with plush seating, a sound system, and other comforts, such as a bar.  Captains know the best spots, where reefs attract schools of feeding fish, depending on conditions.  These are among the most gin-clear and tranquil waters in Puerto Rico.  They are teeming with wildlife, including several species of fish such as grouper, but also lobster, moray eels, and sea turtles.  Among the local operators are Traveler Sailing Catamaran (  787/863-2821), East Island Excursions (  787/860-3434), Salty Dog Catamarans (  787/717-6378), and Catamaran Spread Eagle (  787/887-8821).  Erin Go Bragh Charters (  787/860-4401) offers similar day trips aboard a 50-foot sailing ketch. 

For scuba divers, La Casa del Mar (  787/863-3483 or 863-1000, ext.  7919) is one good option operating out of El Conquistador.  You can go for ocean dives on the outfitter's boats; a two-tank dive goes for $99, including equipment.  A PADI snorkel program, at $60 per person, is also available.  It's located at the marina.  Sea Ventures Dive Center (Rte.  3, Km 51.4, Puerto del Rey;   787/863-3483) has a $109 offer for a two-tank dive. 

Fajardo's seven marinas are proof that it is a sailor's paradise.  The most renowned is the Puerto del Rey Marina (Rte.  3, Km 51.4;   787/860-1000 or 801-3010).  The swankiest marina in Fajardo, it's a beautiful 1,100-slip facility south of town, the largest in the Caribbean.  It's like a city unto itself with restaurants, bars, and a host of other services.  Villa Marina Yacht Harbour (Rte.  987, Km 1.3;   787/863-5131 or 863-5011) is the other main marina in town, and is the shortest ride to the offshore cays and isolated white-sand beaches on the mainland.  Charters operate out of both.  There's a private 35-slip marina at the lowest level of the El Conquistador (  787/863-1000). 

Where to Eat

Expensive

Blossoms ★ CHINESE/JAPANESE Blossoms boasts some of the freshest seafood in eastern Puerto Rico.  Sizzling delights are prepared on teppanyaki tables, and there's a zesty selection of Hunan and Szechuan specialties.  On the teppanyaki menu, you can choose dishes ranging from chicken to shrimp, from filet mignon to lobster.  Sushi bar selections range from eel and squid to salmon roe and giant clams. 

Rte.  987, Km 3.4, in the El Conquistador Resort.    787/863-1000.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $18–$49.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 6–11:30pm. 

La Estación ★   BARBECUE This funky outdoor restaurant in a converted gas station is one of a myriad of beautiful results of the decades-long culture clash between Puerto Rico and New York.  The nuyorican barbecue served here is a down-to earth culinary proposition, and it's executed to smoky perfection, thanks to the natural charcoal barbecue method, fresh seafood, and fine cuts and delicious sauces.  A classically trained chef, Kevin Roth worked in hit restaurants in New York before opening up the Fajardo grill place with his partner Idalia García.  The green papaya salad and house Caesar salad (with Serrano ham and manchego cheese) are great openers, and shrimp kebabs, grilled mahimahi, and pork medallions are all excellent.  There's a different grilled fish and selection of fresh grilled vegetables daily.  You dine on terraces spreading out from the kitchen, which is in the old gas station, and there is also a bar on a huge cedar deck.  It's right on the road to Las Croabas. 

Rte.  987, Km.  4, Las Croabas, Fajardo.    787/863-4481.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $10–$30.  MC, V. Mon–Wed 5pm–midnight, Fri–Sun 3–10pm, Fri–Sat 5–11pm,. 

La Picolla Fontana ★ NORTHERN ITALIAN Dine by candlelight in a neo-Palladian ambience, and feel like Roman royalty.  The menu is straight-ahead, northern Italian cuisine, but it's prepared to perfection in a romantic room that drips old-time glamour.  It has the same great menu as the El San Juan location and the same sky-high prices.  Start out with sautéed clams in white wine and garlic sauce, escargot in butter or a Caprese salad, then move on to a shrimp fra diavolo or chicken saltimboca.  The pastas (from the penne with Mediterranean vegetables to the spinach taglioni in a porcini cream sauce) are wonderful, and so are the risottos. 

Rte.  987, Km 3.4, in the El Conquistador Resort.    787/863-1000.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $26–$55.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 6–10:30pm. 

Where to Stay

Very Expensive

El Conquistador Resort: The Waldorf Astoria Collection ★★   El Conquistador is a destination unto itself.  Its array of facilities sits on 500 acres (202 hectares) of forested hills sloping down to the sea.  Accommodations are divided into five separate sections united by their Mediterranean architecture and lush landscaping.  Most lie several hundred feet above the sea.  At the same altitude, a bit off to the side, is a replica of an Andalusian hamlet, Las Casitas Village, which seems straight out of the south of Spain.  These pricey units, each with a full kitchen, form a self-contained enclave. 

A short walk down the hill takes you to a circular cluster of tastefully modern accommodations, Las Olas Village.  And at sea level, adjacent to an armada of pleasure craft bobbing at anchor, is La Marina Village, whose balconies seem to hang directly over the water.  The accommodations are outfitted with comfortable furniture, tropical colors, and robes.  All the far-flung elements of the resort are connected by serpentine, landscaped walkways and by a railroad-style funicular that makes frequent trips up and down the hillside. 

One of the most comprehensive spas in the Caribbean, the Golden Door maintains a branch in this resort.  The hotel is sole owner of a "fantasy island" (Palomino Island), with caverns, nature trails, horseback riding, and watersports such as scuba diving, windsurfing, and snorkeling.  Free private ferries connect the island at frequent intervals, which is about a half-mile (.8km) offshore, to the main hotel.  There's also a 35-slip marina.  The hotel operates a well-run children's club with activities planned daily.  The resort has opened up a water park that's a hit with the kids (and the young at heart) with water slides, a lazy river, and a large pool.  It's on the harbor level, right by the water, below the pool's main deck. 

Av.  Conquistador 1000, Las Croabas, Fajardo, PR 00738.  www.elconresort.com.    888/543-1282 or 787/863-1000.  Fax 787/863-6500.  918 units.  Winter $239–$409 double, $818–$1,347 suites, $778–$1,478 Las Casitas villas; off-season $169–$289 double, $578–$867 suites, $379–$859 Las Casitas villas.  14% resort fee.  MAP (breakfast and dinner) packages are available.  Children ages 16 and under stay free in parent's room.  AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $21; self-parking $16.  Amenities: 12 restaurants; 8 bars; casino; nightclub; children's programs; dive shop; fishing; golf course; health club; 35-slip marina; 7 pools; room service; sailing; spa; 7 Har-Tru tennis courts; smoke-free rooms; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, minibar. 

Moderate

The Fajardo Inn ★   A good base for those visiting El Yunque, this inn is ideal for those who are seeking a location in the east and don't want to pay the prices charged at El Conquistador (see above).  Lying on a hilltop overlooking the port of Fajardo, this parador evokes a Mediterranean villa with its balustrades and grand staircases.  The midsize bedrooms, most of which open onto good views, are spotless, and each has a small shower-only bathroom.  The inn and its pool are handsomely landscaped.  The on-site Star Fish restaurant specializes in Creole and Continental cuisine, especially fresh fish, with indoor and outdoor dining.  The Blue Iguana Mexican Grill & Bar is a casual pub with good food.  Coco's Park is a new pool area with such activities as a beach pool, slide, Jacuzzi, tennis, basketball, and miniature golf.  It's separated from the rest of the hotel so as not to disturb the relative tranquillity of the rest of the grounds. 

Parcela Beltrán 52, Fajardo, PR 00740.  www.fajardoinn.com.    787/860-6000.  Fax 787/860-5063.  105 units (shower only).  $120–$180 double; $170–$300 suite.  9% resort fee.  AE, DISC, MC, V. 15-min.  walk east of the center of Fajardo.  Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; pool; room service; snorkeling and diving arranged; 1 room for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer. 

Top Caribbean spa: The Golden Door

Perched atop a stunning 300-foot (91m) bluff overlooking the Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, the Golden Door ★★ in Las Casitas Village complex at the Wyndham El Conquistador Hotel (  787/863-1000), is the most sophisticated, well-managed, and comprehensive spa in the Caribbean, and it is one of the finest in the world.  One of only three branches of a spa founded in Escondido, California, and today administered by the Wyndham group, it's devoted to the relaxation and healing of body, soul, and mind.  Spa rituals are taken seriously; New Age mysticism is gracefully dispensed within a postmodern setting that's a cross between a Swiss clinic, a state-of-the-art health club, and a Buddhist monastery.  Spa treatments begin at $115.  The spa is open daily from 9am to 6pm.  American Express, MasterCard, and Visa are accepted. 

Ceiba & Naguabo

South of Fajardo is Ceiba, the site of the former Roosevelt Roads Navy base, and the seaside fishing town of Naguabo.  Once dominated by the Navy presence, which set sail in 2004, the two towns are now sleepy places, waiting for government plans to transform the former military base into a new "Caribbean Riviera."  Today, you can come here to a nice seafood lunch at the town harbors or visit the south side of El Yunque rainforest. 

The local Ports Authority has taken over the former navy airport.  Visitors can catch flights to San Juan, Vieques, and Culebra, and other Caribbean islands from here. 

Naguabo's town harbor is fronted by modest seafood restaurants and is a great place to stop for a lunch on a sunny afternoon.  I've eaten at several of the numerous casual, open-air seafood restaurants, serving tasty, economically priced seafood and other local specialties, and have never been disappointed.  The 1917 revival mansion Castillo Villa del Mar, now a National Historic Monument, is at the harbor's southern end. 

Naguabo is also home to a charming guest house, Casa Flamboyant, nestled in the lush south side of El Yunque rainforest, about a half-hour drive along country roads from the town harbor. 

Getting Around

The Ceiba International Airport (  787/534-4101) has replaced the Fajardo and Humacao airports.  The Fajardo airport has closed and the Humacao airport is only used on weekends and holidays by local private pilots.  It is no longer certified for scheduled passenger or commercial travel.  The Ceiba airport hosts several small airlines serving Vieques and Culebra and other destinations.  All the small airlines—Vieques Air Link, Isla Nena, Air Flamenco—that served the islands from Fajardo now serve them from Ceiba.  To get here from Fajardo, take Expressway 53 south to exit 2 (the Puerto del Rey Marina exit) and pick up Hwy.  3 south.  Follow signs to the Ceiba airport until you exit on Tarawa Drive.  You'll pass a guardhouse at the entrance to the former base and proceed along the main road for the airport.  Parking runs about $10 daily. 

Where to Stay

Casa Flamboyant ★   This stylish Caribbean bed and breakfast ensconced in the south side of the lush El Yunque rainforest is a stunning find in southeast Puerto Rico.  Surrounded by lush jungle, just downstream from a gushing waterfall, the rooms have fantastic views of the rainforest and the Caribbean coastline.  Old world glamour and sumptuous bedding and furnishings add to the appeal.  Three rooms are available in the main house, all with private bathrooms.  The private Rainbow Room suite is set apart.  All the rooms have gorgeous, private views, either from terraces or balconies, and the pool, courtyards, and other common areas are also spectacular.  Hike through tropical forest right from the property, take a swim in a natural pool of a nearby river, or take a plunge in the waterfall just upstream from the B&B. The owner lives here with her dogs and serves an excellent, hearty breakfast. 

Off Rte.  191.  Mailing address: P.O. Box 175, Naguabo, PR 00718.  www.elyunque.com/flamboy.html.    787/559-9800.  Fax 787/559-9800.  4 units.  $200 double; $250 private suite.  AE, MC, V. 15-min.  walk east of the center of Fajardo.  Amenities: Pool; DVD, print and music library.  In room: A/C, flatscreen TV, CD player, DVD player, fridge. 

Palmas del Mar

46 miles (74km) SE of San Juan

Halfway down the east coast, south from Fajardo, lies the resort and luxury residential community of Palmas del Mar in the municipality of Humacao.  Here you'll find one of the most action-packed sports programs in the Caribbean, offering golf, tennis, scuba diving, sailing, deep-sea fishing, and horseback riding.  Palmas del Mar's location is one of its greatest assets.  The pleasing Caribbean trade winds steadily blow across this section of the island, stabilizing the weather and making Palmas del Mar ideal for many outdoor sports. 

But the quickest way to get here from San Juan is to head south to along Hwy.  52 and then east Hwy.  30 to Humacao. 

Palmas del Mar sprawls across 2,700 acres (1,092 hectares) of beautifully landscaped coast, a self-contained resort and residential community with several different luxury neighborhoods, ranging from Mediterranean-style villas to modern marina town houses.  On the grounds are six pools, two golf courses, 20 tennis courts, a fitness center, and a dive shop.  Fishing, bike or car rentals, babysitting, and horseback riding can be arranged. 

It's a town unto itself with a school, hospital, and post office, several restaurants, shops, and other facilities that any town center would have.  There's one existing hotel and two luxury properties under construction.  Several of the residences are available for rent through a vacation club or real estate office. 

Getting There

You'll want a rental car to get around anyway (unless you are content with a golf cart and staying within the resort).  If you're driving from San Juan, take Hwy.  52 south to Caguas, then take Hwy.  30 east to Humacao.  Follow the signs from there to Palmas del Mar.

A van ride to the San Juan international airport is $90 for the first three passengers, $25 per person for four or more.  For reservations, call   787/285-4323.  Call the resort if you want to be met at the airport. 

The Ceiba International Airport north of Humacao is the closest airport.  It's located at the old Roosevelt Roads Naval Base in Ceiba (see above). 

Beaches & Outdoor Activities

Beaches Palmas del Mar Resort has 3 exceptional miles (4.8km) of white-sand beaches (all open to the public).  Nonguests must park at the hotel parking ($2 per hour), and there are showers and bathrooms near the beach.  The waters here can get rough in winter but are generally calm, and there's a watersports center and marina. ( see "Scuba Diving & Snorkeling," below). 

Fishing Some of the best year-round fishing in the Caribbean is found in the waters just off Palmas del Mar. Capt.  Bill Burleson, based in Humacao (  787/850-7442), operates charters on his customized, 46-foot sport-fisherman, Karolette, which is electronically equipped for successful fishing.  Burleson prefers to take fishing groups to Grappler Banks, 18 nautical miles (33m) away, which lie in the migratory paths of wahoo, tuna, and marlin.  A maximum of six people are taken out, costing $680 for 4 1/2 hours, $840 for 6 hours, or $1,140 for 8 hours.  Burleson also offers snorkeling charter expeditions starting at $640 for up to six people for 4 1/2 hours or $840 for 6 hours. 

Golf Few other real-estate developments in the Caribbean devote as much attention and publicity to their golf facilities as the Palmas del Mar Country Club ★★ (  787/656-3020).  Today, both the older course, the Gary Player–designed Palm course, and the newer course, the Reese Jones–designed Flamboyant course, have pars of 72 and layouts of around 2,250 yards (2,057m) each.  Crack golfers consider holes 11 to 15 of the Palm course among the toughest 5 successive holes in the Caribbean.  The pro shop that services both courses is open daily from 6:30am to 6pm.  To play, the course costs $100 to $125 for guests of Villas at Palmas and Four Points by Sheraton, and $105 to $135 for nonguests. 

Hiking Palmas del Mar's land is an attraction in its own right.  Here you'll find more than 6 miles (9.7km) of Caribbean ocean frontage—3 1/2 miles (5.6km) of sandy beach amid rocky cliffs and promontories.  Large tracts of the 2,700-acre (1,093-hectare) property have harbored sugar and coconut plantations over the years, and a wet tropical forest preserve with giant ferns, orchids, and hanging vines covers about 70 acres (28 hectares) near the resort's geographic center. 

Scuba Diving & Snorkeling Some of the best dives in Puerto Rico are right off the eastern coast.  Two dozen dive sites south of Fajardo are within a 5-mile (8km) radius offshore.  See "The Best Scuba Diving" section, in chapter 1. 

Set adjacent to a collection of boutiques, bars, and restaurants at the edge of Palmas del Mar's harbor, Palmas Sea Ventures Dive Center ★, Palmas Del Mar Marina, 110 Harbor Dr. (  787/863-3483), owns a 44-foot-long dive boat with a 16-foot (4.9m) beam to make it stable in rough seas.  They offer both morning and afternoon sessions of two-tank dives (for experienced and certified divers only), priced at $119 each (equipment included).  Half-day snorkeling trips, priced at $60 per participant and departing for both morning and afternoon sessions go, whenever there's demand, to the fauna-rich reefs that encircle Monkey Island, an offshore uninhabited cay.  A discover course for beginners is $150. 

Tennis The Tennis Center at Palmas del Mar ★★ (  787/656-3025 or 656-9043), the largest in Puerto Rico, features 13 hard courts, 2 Omni courts, and 4 clay courts, open to resort guests and nonguests.  Fees for guests are $15 per hour during the day and $10 extra per court at night.  Fees for nonguests are $20 per hour during the day and $10 extra per court at night.  Within the resort's tennis compound is a fitness center, which has the best-equipped gym in the region; it's open Monday to Friday 8am to 8:30pm, Saturday and Sunday 7am to 7pm. 

Where to Eat

Thanks to the kitchens that are built into virtually every unit in Palmas del Mar, many guests prepare at least some of their meals "at home."  This is made relatively feasible thanks to the on-site supermarket at the Palmanova Plaza, which has well-stocked fresh produce and meats, a wide variety of goods, and excellent wine selection. 

Bistro Rico FRENCH Everyone enjoys Chef Daniel's take on informal bistro and cafe fare, with inventive sandwiches (smoked trout, grilled duck breast); bistro classics, such as grilled steak; and such things as an awesome house salad with artichokes and tomatoes, and veal burgers.  It's a good spot for a shrimp cocktail, crab salad, or other delicious appetizer as well.  It's located right by the water next door to Chez Daniel. 

Anchor's Village Marina at Palmas del Mar, Harbour Dr. 110, Ste.  5, Humacao, PR 00791.    787/850-3838.  Reservations required.  Main courses $28–$39 at dinner; $8.50–$20 at lunch.  AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–10pm. 

Blue Hawaii CHINESE This is the best Chinese restaurant in the region.  It combines Polynesian themes (similar to a toned-down Trader Vic's) with an Americanized version of Chinese food that's flavorful and well suited to Puerto Rico's hot, steamy climate.  The menu is huge, and includes grilled lobster with garlic-flavored cheese sauce; blackened salmon, and a wonderful beef teriyaki.  There's a superb house version of honey chicken.  It's in the courtyard of the resort's shopping center, with tables for alfresco dining.  There's also a dining room inside, and a small bar/lounge. 

In the Palmanova Shopping Center.    787/285-6644.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $15–$50.  AE, MC, V. Daily noon–10:30pm. 

Chez Daniel ★ FRENCH Faithfully executed classic French cuisine—bouillabaisse, onion soup, lobster, and chicken pies—is served at this restaurant along the Palmas del Mar Marina.  Normandy-born Daniel Vasse, the owner, along with his French Catalonian wife, Lucette, maintain a dining room that is the most appealing in Palmas del Mar. There's grilled asparagus and a delicious tomato and goat cheese tart to start, and the Marseille bouillabaisse, loaded with grouper, snapper, lobster, shrimp, and mussels, unless you want one of the delicious steaks.  The owner also opened The Tapas Bar next door, an informal tapas bar, open Wednesday to Sunday noon to 11pm.  There, you can pick from a raw bar with ceviche and sushi, but some other highlights include gazpacho, grilled fish, and mango and veal meatballs. 

Marina de Palmas del Mar.   787/850-3838.  Reservations required.  Main courses $28–$39 at dinner; $8–$19 at lunch; $45 Sun brunch (includes 1st drink).  AE, DISC, MC, V. Wed–Mon 6:30–10pm, Sun noon–3pm.  Closed June. 

  Where the Locals Go for Soul Food

To escape the confines of the resort for the evening, there are plenty of simple restaurants and seafront shacks serving up fresh and tasty seafood and comida criolla in atmospheric settings on the east coast.  Several such restaurants can be found in the Punta Santiago sector just off Hwy.  3.  Paradise Seafood, off Hwy.  3, on Calle Isidro Andreu, the main road in Punta Santiago Humacao (  787/852-1180), has been serving such food for 8 decades in an attractive, no-frills setting.  Memorable renditions of mofongo stuffed with seafood and hearty seafood stews, grilled fresh fish, baked lobster, and a wide variety of fish and shellfish served in tasty garlic, Creole, and citrus sauces. 

Where to Stay

Some of the nicest lodging options are the privately owned villas and vacation homes spread throughout the several luxury communities that comprise Palmas del Mar. Prices start as low as $175 nightly, and range all the way up to $1,000.  Weekly rates range from $1,375 to $5,000, with a typical resort and cleaning fee of $100.  The studios and villas at Villas at Palmas del Mar, 295 Palmas Inn Way, Ste.  6, Carretera 3, Km 86.4, Candelero, Humacao, PR 00791 (  787/850-0042; fax 787/852-0927), have long been favorites of vacationers with their resort-level accommodations.  But other rentals are available at Rentals in the Marbella Club, Los Lagos, Aquabella, and several other communities, and can be arranged through the Palmas del Mar Properties (www.palmasdelmar.com;   800/285-2700). 

Wyndham Garden Palmas Del Mar ★ A plethora of on-site activities may keep you from ever leaving the premises: championship golf courses, a country club, a casino and pool bar, along with an infinity pool, are just some of the offerings.  Furnishings are tasteful and exceedingly comfortable, typical of Sheraton's deluxe hotels.  Available extras include private balconies, luxury bathrooms, and work desks.  The hotel also offers business services for commercial travelers, plus a special pool for kids.  The hotel restaurant offers a varied international menu (some dine here every night), and you'll also find a wine and cigar bar.  Location is its real draw—it's right in the middle of Palmas del Mar, a world unto itself on the island's east coast. 

Candelero Dr. 170, Humacao, PR 00791.  www.starwoodhotels.com.    787/850-6000.  Fax 787/850-6001.  107 units.  Year-round $155–$275 double; winter $275–$295 suite, off-season $270 suite.  14% resort fee.. AE, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $15; self-parking $12.  Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; casino; fitness center; golf; kids' pool; outdoor pool; room service; scuba diving; tennis; smoke-free rooms; rooms for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer. 

The Southeast

More and more visitors are discovering the bewitching allure of Puerto Rico's wild and wooly southeast coast, with deep sand beaches, powerful waves, and cliffs cutting across the landscape straight down to the coast.  There are still empty beaches with lighthouses, but now there are more restaurants and lodging options than just a few years ago. 

In Yabucoa, you can also catch the start of the Panoramic Route, a tangle of narrow country roads crisscrossing Puerto Rico's mountainous interior from the east to west coasts (see chapter 4).  The coastal Rte.  901 cuts along steep oceanfront cliffs and descends into such sleepy coastal villages as Maunabo and Patillas.  Along the way is El Horizonte, where the food is as satisfying as the views.  At Punta Tuna, along this road in town, there is a beautiful lighthouse built in 1892 and a wide public beach beside it with restaurants, bathroom facilities, and an outdoor picnic area.  A better place to go swimming is Playa Emajaguas, a rare, wide, sandy beach in the area.  It does not get as crowded as Playa Lucía, farther down the road, right next door to a larger hotel. 

Beyond Maunabo, the main coastal road merges with Hwy.  3 as it passes through the pretty town of Patillas, which has one of the nicest resorts in the area.  Arroyo has the fine Centro Vacacional Punta Guiliarte, a National Parks Company public beach and vacation center. 

Off Rte.  3, Rte.  901 climbs steep oceanfront cliffs, cutting back and forth in switchbacks that afford outstanding views of the Caribbean and the islands in the distance.  The road again descends into Maunabo, a sleepy coastal village that, despite its charms, remains off the beaten path for most visitors to Puerto Rico.  At Punta Tuna, there is a beautiful lighthouse built in 1892 and a nice public beach beside it, with restaurants, bathroom facilities, and an outdoor picnic area.  The wide sand beach here is among the nicest in the region.  Elsewhere in town, the beaches are mostly deserted, used more by fishermen than beachgoers.  The sand is heavier, darker, and deeper than elsewhere in Puerto Rico, and the currents can be strong.  The beaches, protected by palm trees and bluffs, are beautiful, however. 

Where to Stay & Eat

Moderate

Caribe Playa Resort ★   This rustic beachfront resort has a bit of style and is beautifully situated among the swaying palm trees on an isolated, sandy beach that calls you to linger and relax on it.  There's a free-form pool and terrace area, and you can lounge on a chair along the beach or in a hammock strung from the trees.  The on-site restaurant serves pretty good local and international food from breakfast through dinner.  Meals are served on a terrace overlooking the ocean.  Surrounded by lush mountainsides, this is truly an isolated getaway, yet it's just an hour from San Juan.  The snorkeling is great just offshore.  I've always found the accommodations clean, though some rooms are so well decorated they feel boutique-y, while others feel dated and scream for a makeover.  All are beachfront with balcony or terrace view, so no room is bad.  A great property if you want to relax by the beach and not do much of anything.  There is on-site massage therapy ($35 for 30 min.;  $55 for an hour).  The resort also has plenty of beach towels, hammocks, and beach chairs. 

Hwy.  3, Km 112.1, Patillas, PR 00767.    787/839-7717.  www.caribeplaya.com.  34 units (shower only).  $130–$150 double.  AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool.  In room: A/C, TV, fridge. 

El Nuevo Horizonte   PUERTO RICAN/SEAFOOD With the best view in southeast Puerto Rico and great food, this restaurant in the coastal hills of Yabucoa is probably our favorite of the typical Puerto Rican eateries on the island.  Seafood is the star here.  The house special is the paella rey, or king paella, prepared to moist perfection and loaded with lobster, clams, shrimp, and mussels.  The stuffed mofongo with seafood is among the island's best, and the restaurant has a great stuffed lobster dish as well.  While the restaurant is simple, the view is outstanding.  The dining room is perched on a cliff overlooking the Caribbean, and you can see clear out to Vieques and the other islands.  The restaurant has an outdoor deck that serves drinks and food in a more informal environment with the same beautiful view. 

Rte.  901, Km.  8.8, Yabucoa.    787/893-5492.  Main courses $12–$45.  AE, MC, V. Thurs–Sat 11am–10pm; Sun 11am–8pm. 

Hotel Parador Palmas de Lucía ★   In the southeastern corner of Puerto Rico, where accommodations are scarce, this parador is a knockout discovery.  It lies at the eastern end of Ruta Panorámica, a network of scenic, winding roads along which you can take in some of the finest views in the Caribbean before coming to rest at Palmas de Luca, just steps from the pleasant sands of Playa Lucía.  This is one of the newest hotels in eastern Puerto Rico, filling a vast gap in accommodations in this remote part of the island.  The López family is your host, and their complex combines colonial styling with tropical decoration.  Each midsize bedroom is well furnished and has a poolview balcony and an efficiently organized, tiled, shower-only bathroom.  The López family, under its Tropical Inns Puerto Rico company, also runs two nearby small hotels we also recommend, Parador Costa del Marin Yabucoa and Mauna Caribe in nearby Maunabo.  All are clean, well managed, and surprisingly affordable for what you get. 

Palmas de Lucía, rtes.  901 and 9911, Camino Nuevo, Yabucoa, PR 00767.  www.palmasdelucia.com.    787/893-4423.  Fax 787/893-0291.  34 units (shower only).  $102 double.  AE, MC, V, DISC.  From Humacao, take Rte.  53 south to Yabucoa, to the end of the hwy.,  where you connect with Rte.  901 to Maunabo.  After a 2-min.  drive, turn left at the signposted Carretera 9911, which leads to Playa Lucía.  Amenities: Restaurant; bar; basketball court; pool.  In room: A/C, TV. 
Chapter 10: Vieques & Culebra

Just a short boat or airplane ride away are Vieques and Culebra, the two island municipalities that round out the Puerto Rico archipelago.  Their pristine white-sand beaches, breathtaking coastal views, and lush hillsides have earned these two small jewels bordered by the Atlantic their status as the Spanish Virgin Islands.  Still blissfully underdeveloped (without a fast-food restaurant or traffic light between them), Vieques and Culebra have been able to avoid the hustle and bustle of the main island, making them a haven for those looking to get away from it all. 

Beaches Vieques is visited mainly for its 40-odd white-sand beaches, which provide the perfect backdrop for every kind of watersports activity under the sun.  Sun Bay, a government-run, panoramic crescent of sand, is the beach to visit if you have only 1 day to spend on the island. 

Culebra's draw is undoubtedly its horseshoe-shaped Flamenco Beach, with silky white sand and sapphire waters that make it one of the most photographed and sought-after beaches in the Caribbean.  Zoni Beach, on the island's northeastern edge, is a snorkeler's paradise for its beautiful reefs just offshore. 

Things to Do Vieques, the larger of the two islands, offers more tourist facilities and options to eat, stay, and play than its smaller sister Culebra.  Vieques's two main towns, Isabel Segunda on the northern shore and Esperanza on the south, are where most of the action is.  The Fort Conde de Mirasol Museum and the Punta Mula lighthouse on the north are not only worth visiting for their historic value, but for the breathtaking views they offer as well. 

Culebra, on the other hand, has a more laid-back attitude, but compensates for what may seem like a lack of excitement with the spectacular quality of its turquoise beaches.  Dewey, Culebra's only town, is where you may head for a fresh seafood meal or cap off a day of taking in the sun with a cocktail. 

Eating & Drinking Just because Vieques and Culebra are surrounded by water doesn't mean eating is limited to seafood, which by the way, is as fresh as it can get.  To the delight of visiting foodies, the islands have quickly become a magnet for some of the tastiest cuisines, from criollo to fusion, at mostly reasonable prices.  In Vieques, the Next Course and El Quenepo are favorites, while in Culebra, Mamacita's and Susie's are the go-to places for a good meal and drink. 

Nature Despite being small, Vieques and Culebra both host expansive nature reserves that are open to the public.  The Vieques National Wildlife Refuge comprises 15,500 acres of mostly beachfront property that is home to a variety of tropical vegetation and the habitat of some endangered species such as the sea turtle, the manatee, and the brown pelican.  Another of Vieques' major attractions is Mosquito Bay, also called Phosphorescent Bay, which on cloudy or moonless nights takes on a unique glow created by tiny bioluminescent creatures when they swim about in their natural habitat. 

In Culebra, the Culebra Wildlife Refuge is one of the most important turtle-nesting sites in the Caribbean, and it also houses large seabird colonies, notably terns and boobies. 

Vieques ★

41 miles (66km) E of San Juan, 7 miles (11km) SE of Fajardo

Vieques & Culebra

About 7 miles (11km) east of the big island of Puerto Rico lies Vieques (Bee-ay-kase), an island about twice as large as Manhattan, with about 10,000 inhabitants and some 40 palm-lined white-sand beaches. 

From World War II until 2004, about two-thirds of the 21-mile-long (34km) island was controlled by U.S. military forces, both its western and eastern ends.  In the west, there was a base and munitions storage facility.  In the east, vast swaths of the wilderness and pasture land were leased for grazing to local cattle farmers, which created a buffer zone between the civilian population and the war games and bombing range farther out to the east. 

Unlike the U.S. military, the Spanish conquistadores didn't think much of Vieques.  They came here in the 16th century but didn't stay long, reporting that the island and neighboring bits of land held no gold and were, therefore, las islas inútiles (the useless islands).  The name Vieques comes from the native Amerindian word bieques, meaning "small island." 

The Spaniards later changed their minds and founded the main town, Isabel Segunda, on the northern shore.  Construction on the last Spanish fort built in the New World began here around 1843, during the reign of Queen Isabella II, for whom the town was named.  The fort, never completed, is not of any special interest.  The island's fishermen and farmers conduct much of their business here.  The Punta Mula lighthouse, north of Isabel Segunda, provides panoramic views of the land and sea. 

On the south coast, Esperanza, once a center for the island's sugar-cane industry and now a pretty little fishing village, lies near Sun Bay (Sombe) public beach ★.  Sun Bay, a government-run, panoramic crescent of sand, is the beach to visit if you have only 1 day to spend on the island.  It's a beautiful beach that tumbles endlessly along a graceful arc, blessed by palm trees and patches of scrub forest.  The ruins of the Playa Grande sugar plantation, once the center of life in Vieques, lie on former Navy lands near the southwest coast.  Playa Grande's former boulevard, once lined with stylish wooden mansions, continued to cut a swath through the dense dry tropical forest as a kind of civilized stronghold during the 6 decades of navy occupation.  Today you can visit the ruins, which have undergone some restoration work since the navy left.  Nearby Playa Grande beach is a long, palm lined, white sand beach, but the sea here can be rough and unpredictable, with killer rip tides. 

With 40 beaches, all sorts of watersports adventures are possible.  The island's varied terrain also offers plenty of land adventures.  Kicking back, however, continues to be the number-one pastime in Vieques. 

Essentials

Getting There Unless you're on a budget, skip the ferry and fly to Vieques, especially if your time is limited.  The extra money you'll spend will buy you another day on one of its beautiful beaches, which makes it worth it to fly.  Flights to Vieques leave from Isla Grande Airport near the heart of San Juan as well as the main Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport near Isla Verde.  Your best hassle-free option is Isla Grande.  Vieques Air Link (www.viequesairlink.com;   888/901-9247 or 787/741-8331) has the most flights and among the best prices.  It operates six flights from the smaller and more convenient Isla Grande Airport and three daily flights from LMM International.  The VAL flight from Isla Grande, about $132 round-trip, is the most reliable and convenient travel option to Vieques.  It's about half the rate from LMM International, which is $220.  Seaborne Airlines (www.seaborneairlines.com;   877/772-1005 or 787/292-6656) began service to coincide with the opening of the W Vieques Retreat & Spa in March 2010.  Round-trip from San Juan's Isla Grande Airport is $120.  Air Flamenco (www.airflamenco.net;   787/724-1818, 724-1105, or 721-0332) is another option, with regular daily flights and charter service from Isla Grande for $126, including tax.  Cape Air (www.capeair.com;   800/352-0714) is the newest option offering daily round-trip flights from LMM International to Vieques.  Passengers should go online to check for rates and flight availability. 

The Puerto Rico Port Authority operates two ferries a day to Vieques from the eastern port of Fajardo; the trip takes about an hour.  The round-trip fare is $4.50 for adults, $2 for children.  Tickets for the morning ferry that leaves Saturday and Sunday sell out quickly, so you should be in line at the ticket window in Fajardo before 8am (it opens at 6:30am) to be certain of a seat on the 9am boat.  Otherwise, you'll have to wait until the 3pm ferry if it's a weekend, or the 1pm on weekdays.  For more information about these sea links, call   800/981-2005, 787/863-0705 (Fajardo), or 741-4761 (Vieques).  Ferries leave Fajardo for Vieques at 9:30am and 1, 4:30, and 8pm during the week; 9am, and 3 and 6pm on weekends and holidays.  They return from Vieques to Fajardo at 6:30 and 11am, and 3 and 6pm weekdays; and at 6:30am and 1 and 4:30pm on weekends and holidays. 

Getting Around Public cabs or vans called públicos transport people around the island.  To fully experience Vieques, however, you should rent a jeep.  The mountainous interior, more than a dozen beaches, and the nature reserves on former military bases absolutely require it.  Publicos are economical, however, and can be used to and from the airport and ferry on the days you arrive and leave Vieques if you plan to veg at the hotel pool and beach those days, and you can cut down on car expenses. 

Most island rental companies offer economic Jeep Wranglers, Trackers, and similar vehicles, and prices generally range from $45 to $85 daily; but you can find even better deals, if you don't mind a beat up vehicle (and if it's just a Tracker to get you to the beach, you may not) or you rent for a week or longer.  Maritza Car Rentals (  787/741-0078) is the market leader, and Marcos Car Rental (  787/741-1388) is usually the best deal in town.  Marcos is not perfect but does bend over backwards to rectify errors.  Vieques Car Rental (  787/741-1037 or 435-1323) and Martineau Car Rental (  787/741-0087) are good bets, as are Acevedo's (  787/741-4380) and Chepito's (  787/741-8691).  Try to arrange a pickup at the airport; if the rental agency won't do it, your hotel probably will. 

Nature Reserve

The Vieques National Wildlife Refuge ★★★ is comprised of 15,500 acres (6,273 hectares)—much of it awesome beachfront property—relinquished by the U.S. Navy to the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service when the navy abandoned its Vieques training ground in 2003.  This is now the largest landmass of its kind in the Caribbean.  Refuge lands lie on both the eastern and western ends of Vieques.  In 2001, 3,100 acres (1,255 hectares) on the western end were already turned over to the refuge.  These tracts of virgin landscape contain several ecologically distinct habitats, including the island's best white-sand beaches along with upland forests and mangrove wetlands, the latter the habitat of some endangered species such as the sea turtle, the manatee, and the brown pelican.  Binocular-bearing bird-watchers also flock to the site.  The coastal area of the refuge is characterized by coral reef and sea-grass beds, and there are scores of beautiful beaches.  The refuge is open to the public and also contains a Visitor Center at Vieques Office Park, Rd.  200, Km 0.4 (  787/741-2138).  The refuge is open 7 days a week during daylight hours. 

Aficionados of Vieques praise the island for its wide profusion of sandy beaches.  Since the pullout of the U.S. Navy, some of the sites that were formerly off-limits have been made accessible to hikers, cyclists, bird-watchers, beachcombers, and other members of the public.  There are 40 beaches on this small island—that's a whole lot of endless afternoons of exploring. 

Beaches

Along the eastern end, the best beaches are Red Beach (Bahia Corcha), Blue Beach (Bahia de la Chiva), and Playa Plata.  To reach these, take the tarmac-covered road that juts eastward from a point near the southern third of Rte.  997.  Entrance to this part of the island, formerly occupied by the Navy, will be identified as Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre de Vieques, with warnings near its entrance that camping and littering are not allowed.  Drive for about a mile (1.6km) along this road, turning right at the sign pointing to Red Beach (Bahia Corcha).  En route, you'll have one of the few opportunities in the world to gun your rented car along the battered tarmac of what used to be a landing strip (a very long one).  Pretend, if you like, however briefly, that you're on a test track for the Indianapolis 500, naturally exercising all due caution.  The Fish & Wildlife Service has been doing improvement work at many of the beaches within the reserve and periodically closes off public access while work is ongoing. 

The crescent-shaped Red Beach, with wide-open views of the ocean, and Blue Beach, protected by mangroves and scrub trees, are two of the more beautiful east-end beaches.  There are signs, within the park, to minor beaches Playa Caracas, Caya Melones, and even Playuela, but the access roads are blocked off by the Park Service. 

Myriad coves, such as Playa Chiva, pepper the coastline between Blue Beach and the end of the line, Playa Plata, which is covered with sea grapes, scrub trees, and palmettos. 

Also near the border of the former eastern navy holdings is Sun Bay Beach, or Balneario Público Sun Bay.  Its entrance lies off the southern stretch of Rte.  997.  You'll recognize it by a metal sign.  Just beyond, you'll see a park dotted with trees, an absurdly large number of parking spaces (which no one uses), and a formal entryway to the park, which virtually everybody ignores.  Locals, as a means of getting closer to the water and the sands, drive along the access road stretching to the left.  It parallels a 3⁄4-mile (1.2km) stretch of tree-dotted beachfront, and they park wherever they find a spot that appeals to them.  If you continue to drive past the very last parking spot along Sun Bay Beach, a rutted and winding and very hilly road will lead, after a right-hand fork, to Media Luna Beach and Navio Beach, two beautiful and isolated beaches, perfect for snorkeling and evening barbecues.  A left-hand fork leads to the muddy and rutted parking lot that services Mosquito Bay (or Phosphorescent Bay).  Right beside Esperanza village is Playa Esperanza, which is a great place for snorkeling. 

Take a drive to the west end of the island to visit more beaches.  The former Navy base and ammunition storage post has two fine beaches: Green Beach, in the northwest corner of the island beside a nature reserve, which is the best spot for swimming and snorkeling.  On the south coast, another pretty beach lies beside the ruins of the Playa Grande sugar plantation.  You'll have to pass the eerie navy radar facility, a field of antennas, to get there, and the surf is generally rougher here, and more exposed to open ocean and sharks.  You are better off swimming at Green Beach. 

The beaches are beautiful, but the western end is more physically haunted by the island's military past.  Most of the eastern end remains off limits to people, as decades of bombardment from aircraft and offshore carriers have left it littered with unexploded ordnance. 

Adventure Tours

For a small island, Vieques offers big opportunities for diving, snorkeling, sailing, and a huge array of other watersports.  Natural conditions are incredible, and prices remain a bargain.  More and more operators are popping up each year, which should only improve the offerings and the value for customers.  Blue Caribe Kayaks, Calle Flamboyan 149 (El Malecón;   787/741-2522), is one of the most experienced and comprehensive watersports outfits on Vieques, with kayaking, snorkeling, scuba-diving, fishing, or swimming in the nighttime waters of Vieques's bioluminescent bays.  They've been doing it for more than a decade.  Kayak rentals are $15 an hour, $25 for a half-day, and $45 for a full day.  Snorkeling equipment (fins, mask, and snorkel) rent for $10 daily.  Guided snorkeling tours by kayak transport you for $35 through gin-clear waters, with stunning coral and brilliantly colored tropical fish, en route to an offshore cay with great beaches.  Tours last from around 3pm to sundown daily, as well as nighttime trips to the local bio bay ($30 per person), one of the world's best bioluminescent bays. 

If you want to go diving, the Vieques veteran is Nan-Sea Charters, Calle Flamboyan 149, Vieques (  787/741-2390), which brings an insider's knowledge to your dive experience. 

Abe's Snorkeling & Bio-Bay Tours (www.abessnorkeling.com;   787/741-2134) also offers competitive rates, hands-on inspection of marine critters, and some amusing storytelling, at least if you're with Abe.  The company offers several tours lasting between 2 and 4 hours, ranging in price from $35 to $80.  Children 4 and under go for free, while older kids up to 11 years old pay half-price for the expeditions.  Ask about full-day island tours. 

Black Beard Sports, Calle Muñoz Rivera 101, Isabela Segunda, Vieques (www.blackbeardsports.com;   787/741-1892), is a PADI dive center offering introductory dive trips and half-day open-water dives with equipment included for $150.  If you have your gear, the open-water dive is $110.  They also have class programs ranging from $120 to $400, and varying in skill level and duration.  Its downtown location in a restored Puerto Rican casita has a great sporting goods and sportswear shop.  They rent dive equipment, snorkels and fins, mountain bikes, kayaks, fishing gear and other stuff, even tents. 

A well-rehearsed outfit that's good at leading newcomers into the island's most savage landscapes is Vieques Adventure Company (www.bikevieques.com;   787/692-9162).  Gary Lowe and members of his staff lead mountain bikers on half-day ($95 per person) tours of obscure trails that are noteworthy for their panoramas and technical difficulties.  Use of a mountain bike, usually an aluminum-framed, 28-speed, state-of-the-art model, is included in the price.  You can rent one of these bikes, without the services of a trail guide, for $25 per day.  The company also rents sea kayaks ($45 daily).  Anglers will want to try a kayak fly-fishing tour at a price of $150 for a truly unique experience. 

Natural Attraction

One of the major attractions on the island is Mosquito Bay ★, also called Phosphorescent Bay, with its glowing waters produced by tiny bioluminescent organisms.  These organisms dart away from boats, leaving eerie blue-white trails of phosphorescence.  The Vieques Times wrote: "By any name, the bay can be a magical, psychedelic experience, and few places in the world can even come close to the intensity of concentration of the dinoflagellates called pyrodiniums (whirling fire).  They are tiny (1⁄500-in./.13cm) swimming creatures that light up like fireflies when disturbed, but nowhere are there so many fireflies.  Here a gallon of bay water may contain almost three-quarters of a million."  The ideal time to tour is on a cloudy, moonless night.  If the moon is shining on a cloudless night, you can save your money, as you'll see almost nothing.  Some boats go, full moon or not.  While it is no longer possible to swim in these glowing waters, boat operators usually stop in the middle of the bay to let visitors dip their feet to activate the organisms. 

Island Adventures (  787/741-0720) operates trips in Phosphorescent Bay aboard Luminosa.  These trips are not offered around the time of the full moon.  The charge is $40, and most jaunts last about 2 hours.  Similar tours are also offered on kayaks that cost $30, offered by both Blue Caribe Kayak (  787/741-2522), and Abe's Snorkeling & Bio-Bay Tours (www.abessnorkeling.com;   787/741-2134). 

Historic Site

Fort Conde de Mirasol Museum, Barriada Fuerte at Magnolia 471 (  787/741-1717), is the major man-made attraction on the island.  In the 1840s, Count Mirasol convinced the Spanish government to build a defensive fortress here.  Today the carefully restored fort houses a museum of art and history celebrating the story of Vieques.  There are Indian relics, displays of the Spanish conquest, and old flags of the Danes, British, and French.  The French sugar-cane planters and their African slaves are depicted, and there's even a bust of the great liberator Simón Bolivar, who once visited Puerto Rico.  A unique collection of maps shows how the world's cartographers envisioned Vieques.  The museum and fort are open Wednesday through Friday, 9am to 5pm, Saturday and Sunday 8:30am to 4pm.  Admission is $3, or free for ages 11 and younger. 

Where to Eat

Expensive

Carambola ★★ INTERNATIONAL Set in the lovely premises of the Inn on the Blue Horizon (see "Where to Stay," above), this is one of the best spots to eat on Vieques.  Also on-site is a bar that loyalists declare one of their favorites in the world, so consider starting your evening with a drink or two in the octagonal Blue Moon Bar.  Meals are served within the inn's main building or beneath an awning on a seafront terrace lined with plants.  I love the pork loin in rum chutney and the daily stuffed mofongo special.  Expect a crowd of fashion-industry folk, temporarily absent from New York and Los Angeles, and local residents, all mixing in ways that are gregarious, stylish, and usually a lot of fun.  There is also now a casual eatery on a cliffside deck run by the kitchen team. 

In the Inn on the Blue Horizon, Rte.  996, Km 4.3 (1 mile/1.6km west of Esperanza).    787/741-3318.  Reservations required.  Main courses $24–$33.  MC, V. Daily 8–10:30pm. 

El Quenepo CONTINENTAL This is the oldest restaurant in Esperanza, and the service you'll get here is among the most attentive on the island, so it's worth a splurge one night, even if the place feels as if it were dropped here from Cape Cod.  In general, the food is tasty; the seared tuna, pumpkin gnocchi, and lava rock churrasco are excellent, and the conch fritters and duck appetizer are a great way to get things going.  End it all with some pecan pie, vanilla cheesecake, or chocolate mousse. 

Calle Flamboyan 148, Barrio Esperanza.    787/741-1215.  Reservations recommended.  Dinner $9–$33.  MC, V. Dec-May Tues–Sun 5:30pm–10pm.  June-Sept Wed–Sun 5:30pm–9:30pm. 

miX on the Beach ★★ FRENCH CARIBBEAN Alain Ducasse's signature restaurant at the new W Vieques Retreat & Spa takes on gourmet beach food and results in a short but elegant and compelling menu that explores Latino-Caribbean flavors from a classic French perspective.  The chef's famed affection for the Mediterranean is evident in dishes like the artisanal pasta appetizer (with crushed zucchini and tomato marmalade) and halibut with eggplant caviar in a lemon garlic sauce; but the pork entrée takes its inspiration from the mountain towns of Puerto Rico, while the barramundi platter in a mango honeydew sauce cannot taste more Caribbean.  Ducasse's signature dish—the Cookpot—tenderly melds together the island's vegetables.  A breakfast menu offers straightforward but satisfying plates of French toast, egg platters, bagels and lox, and more.  Cocktails are top notch and usually include several types of rum. 

In the W Vieques Retreat & Spa, Rte.  200, Km 3.2, Vieques, PR 00765.  www.whotels.com/Vieques.    787/741-4100.  Reservations recommended.  Breakfast $6–$22; dinner $22–39.  AE, MC, V. Daily 7:30am–11am and 6–10pm. 

Next Course ★★ CARIBBEAN This is one of the newest additions to the Vieques food scene, tucked away just outside Esperanza—if you drive too fast, you may just miss it.  The restaurant's beautiful setting and relaxed atmosphere has made it a popular spot for locals and tourists alike who go for the fresh seafood, including lobster, crab, scallops and the sesame encrusted tuna steaks, as well as its variety of meat dishes.  The mixed drinks menu lists several popular cocktails, including the signature "Pain Killer," which has become a favorite among patrons.  The restaurant is open for dinner only, and reservations are highly recommended because although it is on the pricey side, it can get quite busy.  That's especially true if you're looking to dine "under the stars" at one of the tables on the outside patio. 

Rte.  201, Km 3.2   787/741-10288.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $22–$30.  D, MC, V. Fri–Wed 5:30–10pm. 

Veritas ★ INTERNATIONAL Set in the cool and breezy highlands of Vieques, on a verdant hillside with sweeping views of the island's interior, this restaurant is perched within a gracefully proportioned open-sided building that gives the impression of something midway between a simplified gazebo and a tree house.  Its bar offers great happy hour specials on Tuesday nights that draw a crowd.  The restaurant is under new ownership and its menu has been made over to reflect an eclectic mix of appetizers and entrees that includes garlic basil gorgonzola bread, build-your-own burgers, and Caribbean lobster mac and cheese.  The restaurant also prepares lunch picnic baskets, which it will drop off wherever you're staying, offering a broad selection of appetizers, salads, wraps, and even side dishes to enjoy at the beach or on your day's adventure.  Fridays are prime-rib nights, and gourmet pizza is served from 4pm to 7pm Saturdays. 

In the Crow's Nest hotel, Rte.  201, Km 1.6, Barrio Florida.  www.veritasvqs.com.    787/741-0011.  Reservations recommended.  Appetizers $6–$10; main courses $17–$24.  MC, V. Tues–Sun 5–10:30pm. 

Moderate

Chez Shack ★ INTERNATIONAL Chez Shack is a funky, brightly painted, rustic, wooden spot, with a small bar, no frills dining room, and great flavor.  Hugh Duffy, who has been operating such places in the Caribbean since Mama Cass waitressed at his Love Shack in St. Thomas, is often on hand spinning a tale.  The place is open only on Thursday to Monday, for barbeque night, so plan ahead to be there for the experience.  Menu items include tried-and-true favorites, many of which attract repeat diners who memorized the menu long ago.  Examples include baked crab, seafood cocktail, steaks, fish filets, and barbecued ribs.  The wooden shack is on the edge of a beautiful country road that runs through the island's central hills and the tropical forest. 

Hwy 995, Km 1.8 (NW of Esperanza; Airport Rd.).    787/741-2175.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $18–$22.  MC, V. Dec–Apr Thurs–Mon 6pm–10pm. 

Taverna ★ MEDITERANNEAN The spirit of the Mediterranean runs through this restaurant that is open just for dinner, offering creative Italian classics, including pasta, brick-oven pizza, and some fish specials.  The chicken Athena is sautéed with tomatoes, kalamata olives, and feta cheese; and the clams linguini is served with pancetta, garlic, and crushed red peppers.  The pastas and pizza are tasty. 

Calle Carlos Lebrum 453, right off the plaza Isabel Segunda.    787/741-7760.  Reservations recommended for dinner.  Main courses $10–$30.  AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri 5:30–9pm. 

Trade Winds Restaurant STEAK/SEAFOOD This restaurant beside the oceanfront esplanade in the fishing village of Esperanza serves excellent breakfasts in a great setting overlooking the sea.  Dinners are notoriously inconsistent.  Although the bar is a great place for an early evening drink along the harbor, you are better off having dinner elsewhere.  If you do have dinner, stick to the lobster and fresh fish specials; everything else, at best, is just okay.  For years, however, this has been the best place to have breakfast on the Esperanza strip.  There are delicious omelets and eggs Benedict, and there's no better spot to read the morning papers. 

In Trade Winds Guesthouse, Calle Flamboyan, Barrio Esperanza.    787/741-8666.  Reservations recommended.  Breakfast $4.50–$13; main courses $13–$28.  AE, MC, V. Thurs–Mon 8am–2pm; daily 5:30–9:30pm. 

Inexpensive

Bananas Restaurant INTERNATIONAL A reliable casual restaurant that serves tasty burgers, salads, steaks, and other entrees.  The simple wood bar and dining room fill a large room that opens up to Esperanza's pretty harbor and rows of tropical plants.  Bar food and cold drinks sums up the offerings here, but everything is quite nicely done, and the employees are friendly and informative.  The menu includes Caesar salads, grilled or jerk-marinated chicken; grilled pork chops; grilled fish; steaks; baby back ribs; pizzas; and sandwiches that include BLTs, burgers, and chicken-breast sandwiches.  Service is not speedy.  But, hey, you're in Vieques, who cares? 

Calle Flamboyan (El Malecón), in Esperanza.    787/741-8700.  Reservations not necessary.  Salads and sandwiches $5–$11; main courses $15–$17.  MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm (kitchen).  Bar is open later. 

El Patio Restaurant & Bieke's Bistro ★ PUERTO RICAN This simple and completely unpretentious restaurant serves an impressive number of locals and visitors 6 days a week from breakfast through dinner, often with lots of banter about island personalities and politics.  The home-cooked meals are flavorful and filling, and the place intensely local and friendly.  Breakfasts have such basics as oatmeal and ham and eggs, and there are several daily specials for lunch and dinner.  There are such basic items as steak and chicken, and Puerto Rican classics such as breaded chicken and rice and beans (which they rightfully brag are the best in town).  Steer towards the seafood, such as fresh grouper in sweet tomato sauce, the asopao de mariscos (seafood stew with fresh fish), marinated octopus, or conch salad. 

Calle Antonio G. Mellado 340 (Rte.  200, in Isabel Segunda).    787/741-6381.  Reservations not accepted.  Breakfast platters $1.50–$6; main courses $6–$25.  AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 7am–10pm. 

El Yate Bar & Restaurant ★ PUERTO RICAN Some of the best criollo food on the island is just a few feet away from the dock on Isabel Segunda, at this small, family-owned restaurant.  Its bright orange walls are hard to miss if you're coming on the ferry; and, if you happen to catch the last trip from Fajardo, this is the place to get a late-night bite.  The menu features lunch and dinner options such as fresh fried grouper and yellow-tailed fish to pork chops and cubed steak.  All of the entrees come with a small salad and a side dish of either rice and beans, tostones, sweet plantains, or French fries.  The dessert menu, while small, features a towering homemade coconut cheesecake that's the perfect ending to a satisfying meal.  The bar is open until midnight daily. 

Calle Rieckehoff (next to the Ferry Dock, in Isabel Segunda).  No reservations required.  Appetizers $5–$9; sandwiches $9–$12; main courses $8–$25.  Cash only.  Daily 8am–10pm.  Bar closes at midnight. 

Shopping

Exciting new shopping opportunities on Vieques have mushroomed in recent years in the wake of the navy exit and the ensuing tourist influx.  In general, the consumer products stores and the tourist and souvenir shops in both Isabel Segunda and Esperanza have gotten more sophisticated.  For the first time in years, the clothing stores in Isabel Segunda and Esperanza are actually in fashion.  Another place where the upgrade trend is also evident is in the quality of food and beverage offerings at grocery and convenience stores (which mirrors improvement in restaurant quality).  Foodies might want to pick up some of the local hot sauce, Coqui Fire Sauce (www.coquifire.com), which is available throughout the island in mango garlic, papaya lime, and Komodo dragon varieties.  When it comes to picking up unique gifts and trendy clothing, then you may want to swing by the Funky Beehive (  787/741-3192), a boutique on the corner of Muñoz Rivera and Antonio G. Mellado streets that features a hodge-podge of candles, jewelry, kitchen gadgets, and island wear. 

Art Galleries

Nowhere is the burst of creativity greater than in the growth of island art galleries.  A number of international artists have settled in Vieques, and together with the sizeable number of fine island artists, there is a particularly vibrant arts community.  Because the island is such an obvious influence on the artists, their work tends to reflect the beauty of Vieques.  The Vieques pioneer Siddhia Hutchinson is still going strong.  The Siddhia Hutchinson Fine Art Studio & Gallery, Calle 3, A15, Isabel Segunda (  787/741-8780), located between the lighthouse and the ferry dock, offers the owner's prints of local seascapes and landscapes, native flowers, fish, and birds for sale.  Ileana Jové's Glass Art, outside Isabel Segunda, Rte.  997, Km 1.5 (  787/741-4694), offers gorgeous jewelry and other mosaic works.  Ileana Jové herself is now a talented metal sculptress.  She rents two studios on her secluded property.  It's a beautiful setting housing her studio and gallery.  Caribbean Walk Gallery, Calle Antonio Mellado 357, Isabel Segunda (  787/741-7770), sells beautiful local crafts, paintings, and sculptures made by more than 30 local artists.  It also has some of the island works of talented landscape painter Ellie Harold, which are some of the most evocative of their kind of Vieques. 

Vieques Nightlife

This is still a relatively quiet place, but there are more places to party and the parties are getting more festive every year.  In general, there is still no place better than the Esperanza malecón on a Friday night, drinking cheap, cold beer and listening to some great music and conversation. 

Bar Plaza   The double doors are left wide open in this dusty bar with high ceilings and slowly whirring fans, which helps the clientele cool off with the icy cold beers.  You expect Hemingway to stumble out off this 1940s-era Spanish Caribbean tavern, which has thick cement walls that also help cool things down.  With posters advertising defunct products, the place feels frozen in time, like it could be in colonial Havana or Madrid during the Spanish Civil War.  There's a pool table in the corner, an old-fashioned cement trough that functions as the men's urinal, and staff and stoic regular patrons that indeed show their age.  No food of any kind is served—only drinks.  Beer starts at $2.50.  Open daily 9am to 9pm.  Plaza del Recreo, in Isabel Segunda.    787/741-2176. 

Duffy's This rustic tavern on the Esperanza waterfront has good food and a lively bar scene.  This spot is run by the son of the legendary Caribbean entrepreneur Hugh Duffy and draws a loyal local crowd and is a favorite with visitors, so it's a good place to mingle.  This place is more classic rock and burgers—don't come here expecting Puerto Rican food or serenity—but there are surprisingly good sandwiches (the Ruben) and seafood specials.  Duffy's Punch, the house dark rum punch, is worth a try, as is the Parcharita, a passion fruit drink.  The joint gets jumping on weekend nights.  The bar is open late every night.  Calle Flamboyán (El Malecón) Esperanza, Vieques.    787/741-7000. 

Lazy Jack's ★ This bar and pizza joint has a kitchen that's often the last to close in Esperanza, serving a big selection of frozen drinks and specialty beers; chances are you will wind up here at some point.  Sit on patio furniture outside or belly up to the bar.  This is an amiable expat spot, where it would not be surprising to hear that old Jimmy Buffett tune (even if it's just in your head).  There's always something going on—holiday parties, live music, Wii bowling tournaments, karaoke nights, etc.  Sit down here for a fine breeze and animated conversation, both available most of the time.  Open daily at noon.  Kitchen closes at 11pm except Friday and Saturday (11:30pm).  Bar is open late every night.  Calle Flamboyán (El Malecón) Esperanza, Vieques.    787/741-1864. 

Mar Azul Bar This colorful waterfront bar draws ex-patriots from the U.S. who have settled here, but it's also a hit with local viequenses and visitors.  As such, it's a great spot for travel tips (check out the bulletin board packed with useful info).  Overlooking the sound between the island and Puerto Rico's east coast, this waterfront pub is right next to the ferry, so is practically an obligatory stop.  The main room has a big square bar, with surrounding tables, and an outside deck has small tables overlooking the water that are made for couples wanting a more quiet drink together.  An adjoining room has pool tables and a jukebox.  There's basic pub fare, sandwiches and burgers, but the brisk demand is for rum punches and frozen piña coladas.  It's open Sunday through Thursday 11am to midnight, Friday and Saturday 11am to 2am.  On the Waterfront, adjacent to the ferryboat piers, in Isabel Segunda.    787/741-3400. 

Where to Stay

Expensive

Bravo Beach Hotel ★ In a secluded residential area, this boutique hotel, with its Frette linens and Philippe Starck designs, comes as a surprise—and a pleasant one.  Young couple Carl and Janna Halberg recently acquired and completely overhauled the oceanfront property, adding new amenities while keeping those that have kept guests coming back year after year.  Most of the bedrooms are within only 30 feet (9.1m) of the Atlantic with a good, white-sand beach.  Units open onto a private terrace facing the sea.  It's the little things that count here: an honor bar poolside, or the box lunch the staff will pack for you to take to the beach.  Rooms are decorated in a minimalist style, effectively using lots of white, draped plantation-era beds, and wicker furnishings.  On-site is a two-bedroom cottage, a vision in white, accented by bamboo and mahogany pieces.  You can even check your e-mail poolside, as there is free Wi-Fi available throughout the property for guests. 

North Shore Rd.  1, Vieques, PR 00765.  www.bravobeachhotel.com.    787/741-1128.  12 units.  $100–$225 double; $250–275 suites; $325–$375 villas (depending on high or low season).  Rates include continental breakfast.  MC, V. Amenities: 2 outdoor pools; smoke-free rooms.  In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minifridge. 

Malecón House ★ This chic seaside inn located in the hip seaside Esperanza village is among the newest hotels to join the island's portfolio of properties.  At first glance, the hotel is the embodiment of modern minimalist design, with its all-white facade and clean lines.  Its 10 rooms all have different names to reflect their personalities and follow pretty much the same style, featuring simple decoration and ranging in category from standard to premium.  Each room offers a full- or queen-size bed—some with an additional pullout sofa—sitting area, and walk-in shower.  Four of the rooms have a view of the Atlantic's crystal blue waters.  While the hotel does not have a restaurant, it does offer free continental breakfast of freshly baked muffins and scones, local fruit, and Puerto Rican coffee, which you can enjoy just before taking a dip in the pool. 

Calle Flamboyán 105, Vieques, PR 00765.    787/741-0663.  www.maleconhouse.com.  10 units.  $175–260 double.  Rates include continental breakfast.  MC, V. Amenities: Pool; rooftop terrace with tables and seating; smoke-free rooms, Wi-Fi (free, in common areas).  In room: A/C, ceiling fan, minifridge, no phone..

Hix House ★★   Angular and avant-garde, and minimalist to the point of looking almost barren, Hix House is one of the most iconoclastic and most admired pieces of eco-sensitive architecture in the Caribbean.  It is set on 12 acres (4.9 hectares) of land, formerly used for the cultivation of sugarcane, on a scrub- and tree-covered landscape on a hillside in the center of the island.  The inn consists of five separate buildings, designed with triangular, circular, or rectangular floor plans.  Each of them was created by the celebrated Toronto-based architect John Hix (a climate and design architect), who has won awards for his designs for low-maintenance houses in chilly Canada.  The 19 rustic loft apartments have huge open windows and no air-conditioning, and each is aggressively outfitted with mosquito netting, low-wattage lighting (brighter lights attract mosquitoes), and virtually indestructible furniture that's crafted either from poured and polished concrete or pressure-treated lumber.  The newest addition to the property, Casa Solaris, is the first all-solar hotel building that is entirely removed from the commercial electrical grid.  Casa Solaris will accommodate 16 guests in its six lofts. 

Other than yoga classes, conducted every morning from 9:30am to 11am, there's virtually nothing to do other than the entertainment you create yourself.  The pool and surrounding area is gorgeous and refreshing.  Rooms come with refrigerators that are stocked with milk, orange juice, eggs, cereal, freshly baked bread, and fruit.  None has a bathtub, and showers are artfully rustic affairs set within open-air concrete alcoves. 

Rte.  995, Km 1.5, Vieques, PR 14902.  www.hixislandhouse.com.    787/741-2302.  Fax 787/741-2797.  19 units.  Winter $345–$450 double; off-season $135–$310 double.  AE, MC, V. Amenities: Outdoor pool.  In room: Ceiling fans, stocked fridge. 

Inn on the Blue Horizon ★★ One of the finest places to stay on Vieques, it's located on a wide, flat bluff overlooking the beautiful southern coastline.  The Mediterranean-style main building has a huge main lobby, with an outrageously high ceiling, overlooking an infinity pool and blue horizon beyond.  The soaring living area of the airy seafront house opens onto a view of the Caribbean coastline, right at the property's edge. 

Three of the bedrooms are in the main house; a half-dozen others are in a trio of bungalows, each of which contains two spacious and comfortable units, each with a private balcony and sea view.  Airy and clean, they're outfitted with early-19th-century North American antiques and eclectic art from a variety of artists.  Two units contain tubs, and the rest are equipped with showers. 

Symmetrically positioned arbors are covered with cascades of bougainvillea, with a pool and lawns that slope gracefully down to cliffs at the edge of the sea.  The area is beautifully landscaped with bougainvillea and mosaic tile.  The sea adjacent to the hotel has a rocky coastline.  Although there's one nearby beach, you're better off visiting one of the dozens of fine local beaches.  The views from the circular bar and the cliffside bar and dining area are spectacular.  The restaurant, Carambola, is one of the island's most respected.  In addition to a great pool, there are two tennis courts (court charge is $10 per hour day for guests, $25 for nonguests). 

Rte.  996 (P.O. Box 1556), Km 4.3, Vieques, PR 00765.  www.innonthebluehorizon.com.    787/741-3318.  Fax 787/741-0522.  10 units (some with shower only).  Winter $160–$375 double; off-season $130–$260 double; holidays $200–$400 double.  5% resort fee.  AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; cafe/bar; gym; outdoor pool; tennis courts.  In room: A/C, hair dryer, no phone. 

W Vieques Retreat & Spa ★★★ The W arrived in Vieques in 2010, with the opening of the second W Retreat & Spa in the world. ( The first was in the Maldives.)  The W is where you stay to escape the hustle of the city, blending soft adventure with soothing relaxation for a unique experience, which begins as soon as you arrive in the W's branded airplane and relax at their welcome lounge at Vieques airport.  The W is very eco-friendly, with a rustic elegance and Mediterranean feel.  The property is blessed with two private palm-lined pristine beaches and tangles of mangroves stretching as far as the eye can see.  As soon as you enter the main building, you get the feeling it is outfitted for a world-class party, though it is perfect to relax and enjoy the gorgeous setting.  Most rooms and suites have views of the Atlantic Ocean with an open-air natural and ironic tub designed by Urquiola exclusively for the W. Outdoors: relax or watch the sunset on colorful, high-end furniture on the decks; lounge on the beach, a private black pool, or by either of its two infinity-edge pools (with very cool underwater tunes); or gather around a fire pit for long conversations after dusk while you sip rum cocktails.  Decompress before emerging reenergized for whatever lies ahead at AWAY Spa; and make sure you savor at least one meal at Alain Ducasse's miX on the Beach.  A very helpful staff and concierge will set you up with snorkeling and kayaking trips or kid-friendly excursions.  You might also consider a Jeep rental with brand new Jeeps available through the Avis counter on-property. 

Rte.  200, Km 3.2, Vieques, PR 00765.  www.wvieques.com.    787/741-4100.  Fax 954/624-1712.  156 units.  Winter from $469 double; off-season starting at $299 double.  $60 resort fee.  AE, DC, MC, V. Pets allowed.  Amenities: 3 restaurants; 3 bars; free airport transfers; bicycle rental; concierge; 24-hour health club; 2 infinity-edge pools; 24-hour room service; spa; tennis courts until sunset; watersports equipment.  In room: A/C, cable TV, CD/DVD, hair dryer, minibar and snacks, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi. 

Moderate

Crow's Nest ★ Set high on 5 acres (2 hectares) of forested hillside, about 1 1/2 miles (2.4km) west/southwest of Isabel Segunda, the grounds of this inn circle its beautiful pool area surrounded by hills.  The comfortable, attractive units all have cooking facilities.  Rooms are upscale, and each unit has a neatly tiled, shower-only bathroom.  Like most of the other hotels on the island, this one requires a car ride of around 10 minutes for access to the nearest worthwhile beach. 

Rte.  201, Km 1.6, Barrio Florida (P.O. Box 1521), Vieques, PR 00765.  www.crowsnestvqs.com.    787/741-0033.  Fax 787/741-1294.  17 units (shower only).  $146 double; $245 suite.  AE, MC, V. Amenities: Bar; pool; Wi-Fi.  In room: A/C, kitchen. 

Hacienda Tamarindo ★ Established in the late 1990s on the site of an expanded nightclub, less than a mile (1.6km) west of Esperanza, this inn has lots of flair, style, and pizzazz.  Vermont-born owners Burr and Linda Vail transformed a thick-walled, rather unimaginative-looking concrete building into a replica of a Spanish colonial hacienda.  The inn was built around a massive 200-year-old tamarind tree, whose branches rise majestically through the hotel's atrium.  Its production of fruit (Feb–Mar) is heralded with much excitement.  Rooms are stylish, tiled, and spacious.  Each contains an eclectic mishmash of art and dark-wood antiques, some of which were brought from Vermont.  Bathrooms are modern, clean, and well designed; some contain a tub, others a shower.  A new penthouse suite will open this summer, for guests who want more-spacious accommodations.  Although the inn is set about one-eighth mile (.2km) from the sea, there's access to a beach via a footpath, and there's a pool.  The restaurant and cafe at the Inn on the Blue Horizon lie within a 5-minute walk. 

Rte.  996, Km 4.5, Barrio Puerto Real (P.O. Box 1569), Vieques, PR 00765.  www.haciendatamarindo.com.    787/741-0420.  Fax 787/741-3215.  17 units (some with shower only, some with tub only).  Winter $195–$500 double, $245–$500 suite; off-season $150–$350 double, $180–$350 suite.  10% resort fee.  Rates include full breakfast.  AE, MC, V. No children under 13 off-season, under 17 in high season.  Amenities: Bar; pool; Wi-Fi.  In room: A/C, hair dryer, no phone. 

Inexpensive

Bananas Guesthouse On the island's south shore, on the main tourist strip of Esperanza and best known for its bar and restaurant (see "Where to Eat," below), this guesthouse has eight simple rooms.  Each has a ceiling fan; and some rooms are air-conditioned and have screened-in porches.  Book one of the air-conditioned rooms rather than those without, as a means of cutting down on heat as well as the noise from the outside.  Each unit has a bathroom with a tub.  The units are unadorned cubicles with little architectural interest; they provide shelter and calm, and a basic level of comfort.  The ambience is convivial, the staff friendly and accommodating.  The best room is the $100 unit with air-conditioning and a deck. 

Barrio Esperanza, 142 Calle Flamboyan (P.O. Box 1300), Vieques, PR 00765.  www.bananasguesthouse.com.    787/741-8700.  Fax 787/741-0790.  7 units.  $70–$100 double.  MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar.  In room: A/C (in 4 units), ceiling fans, no phone. 

Casa de Amistad (House of Friendship) Until it was radically renovated in 2002 by a likable former resident of Wisconsin and Minnesota, this boxy-looking, two-story cement building functioned as a battered and run-down boardinghouse that focused on cheap mattresses and bountiful meals for itinerant workers.  Today, in far better-maintained premises, something of the same spirit still prevails, albeit in cleaner, hipper, and more convivial circumstances, thanks to the owner's friendly sense of informality.  The house has a bar tucked away in one corner, a communal kitchen where residents are invited to prepare their own meals, a tiny "lending library" stocked with dog-eared paperback books, computer and television areas, free Wi-Fi, and a gift shop with the owner's artwork on sale.  Bedrooms are angular, tawny-colored units that are breezy and airy enclaves with simple but comfortable furniture and a sense of well-intentioned laissez-faire.  Although any hotel on the island genuinely welcomes gay and lesbian clients, this guesthouse is especially gay friendly.  The establishment's social center is within a cement-walled courtyard, around a very small, L-shaped swimming pool sheathed in cerulean-blue tiles. 

Calle Benitez Castaño 27, Vieques, PR 00765.  www.casadeamistad.com.    787/741-3758.  7 units.  Winter $80–$110 double, $110 suite; summer $75–$100 double; $100 suite.  MC, V. Amenities: Small outdoor pool; courtyard garden/sun terrace; communal kitchen; TV room; small gift boutique.  In room: A/C, ceiling fan, minifridge. 

The Great Escape ★   This attractive, well-maintained bed-and-breakfast occupies a pair of stark white concrete houses, set on the crest of a hill, in a rural neighborhood just north of Esperanza.  Your hostess is Danuta Schwartzwald, a Polish émigré who selected Vieques as a place to live after years of self-imposed exile in Switzerland.  You might feel just a wee bit isolated here, located as it is behind metal gates, at the end of a long, uphill, and rutted road from Rte.  201.  But the size and solid, surprisingly upscale furnishings—including some mahogany, four-poster beds; tiled floors; upscale bathrooms; and the sense of calm that reigns over the place, might eventually persuade you that, indeed, this is a desirable, although uneventful, place to stay.  No meals are served other than breakfast, but the staff and managers of this place will offer advice about nearby venues.  There are also one-bedroom to three-bedroom suites that fetch between $250 and $450. 

Barrio La Llave, directly off Rte.  201, 2 miles (3.2km) northwest of Esperanza, Vieques, PR 14501.  www.caribbeangreatescape.com.    787/376-4927.  11 units.  Winter $115 double; off-season $125 double; year-round $250 1-bedroom apts, $350 2-bedroom apts, $450 3-bedroom apts (3-day minimum rental required for all apts).  10% resort fee.  AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Pool; bar.  In room: Ceiling fan. 

La Finca Caribe Guest House & Cottages This bare-bones, eco-sensitive establishment caters to budget-conscious travelers and youthful adventurers.  Finca, a rustic estate, has as its centerpiece a guesthouse with a spacious porch, outfitted with hammocks and swinging chairs.  An admirably maintained garden wraps itself around the scattered components of the compound.  The rustic-looking outbuildings include a bathhouse, a communal kitchen, and two self-contained cottages suitable for up to three (the Casita) or two (the Cabanita) occupants.  There is also the Casa Nueva, perhaps the most upscale digs, built on a hill, which sleeps five.  The Cabanita is a cute one-bedroom cottage, and there is a beautiful family unit as well as larger buildings for groups.  Cottages have private decks and kitchens.  Another unit, the Family Cabana, which sleeps between two and six, has its own private bathroom and kitchen.  There's a pool on the premises and a crew of entrepreneurs that takes clients on bike tours to obscure parts of Vieques (see "Beaches, Diving & Other Outdoor Pursuits," later in this chapter).  La Finca is situated on a forested hillside 3 miles (5km) from Sun Bay. 

Rte.  995, Km 1.2 (P.O. Box 1332), Vieques, PR 00765.  www.lafinca.com.    787/741-0495.  Fax 787/741-3584.  10 units, 4 cottages.  Winter $97 double, $110–$195 cottage double, weekly cottages $735–$1,350; off-season $87 double, $100–$170 cottage double, weekly cottages $650–$1,190.  One-time "short-stay" fee of $30 for 3 days or less during off-season and 4 days or less during the high season.  Charge of $30 per person per additional guest in double-occupancy rooms.  MC, V. Amenities: Communal kitchen; pool.  In room: Kitchen (in cottages). 

Trade Winds Guesthouse Along the shore on the south side of the island, in the fishing village of Esperanza, this oceanside guesthouse offers 11 units, four of which are air-conditioned and have terraces; some others have terraces and ceiling fans.  Bedrooms are white-walled and durable, with absolutely no imagination in terms of decor; the units (all smoke-free) might remind you of a barracks.  They're almost equivalent to the rooms at Bananas, a few buildings away, but they're just a bit better.  Each unit has a small, tiled, shower-only bathroom.  Because of their low rates, they're usually booked solid, often with divers from the United States or residents of the Puerto Rican mainland who want low rates.  This place is well known for its hospitable ambience and its open-air restaurant overlooking the ocean (see "Where to Eat," below). 

Calle Flamboyan 107, Barrio Esperanza (P.O. Box 1012), Vieques, PR 00765.  www.tradewindsvieques.com.    787/741-8666.  Fax 787/741-2964.  11 units (shower only).  Year-round $98 double.  AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar.  In room: A/C (in 4 units), fan (in some), no phone. 

Culebra ★

52 miles (84km) E of San Juan; 18 miles (29km) E of Fajardo

Sun-bleached Culebra, 18 miles (29km) east of Puerto Rico's main island and halfway to St. Thomas in the U.S. Virgin Islands, is just 7 miles (11km) long and 3 miles (5km) wide and has only 2,000 residents.  The island is blessed by the persistent enchantment of the tropical weather, and the landscape is dotted with everything from scrub and cacti to Poinciana, frangipanis, and coconut palms.  It has stunning beaches and emerald waters, and some of the finest diving, snorkeling, and sailing in the region, not to mention a gorgeous countryside. 

This small island is all about having fun in the surf and the sun, but after a hard day at the beach, you can kick it back several notches and relax.  There are a growing number of chic vacation homes and upscale inns, and places to get a good meal.  But most visitors will want to save their energy for Culebra's white-sand beaches, clear waters, and long coral reefs. 

Culebra was settled as a Spanish colony in 1886.  Like Puerto Rico and Vieques, it became part of the United States after the Spanish-American War in 1898.  In fact, Culebra's only town, a fishing village called Dewey, was named for Admiral George Dewey, a U.S. hero of that war, although the locals defiantly call it Puebla. 

From 1909 to 1975, the U.S. Navy used Culebra as a gunnery range and as a practice bomb site in World War II.  Today the four tracts of the Culebra Wildlife Refuge, plus 23 other offshore islands, are managed by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service.  The refuge is one of the most important turtle-nesting sites in the Caribbean, and it also houses large seabird colonies, notably terns and boobies. 

Culebrita, a mile-long (1.6km) coral-isle satellite of Culebra, has a hilltop lighthouse and crescent beaches.  There are nearly two dozen other cays surrounding the island in the midst of stunning Caribbean waters. 

Essentials

Getting There Vieques Air-Link (  787/741-8331) flies to Culebra twice a day from San Juan's Isla Grande Airport.  Round-trip is $105.  We recommend flying, as you will spend the entire day traveling to get to the island otherwise.  Another option is Air Flamenco (  787/724-1818 or 721-7332). 

The Puerto Rico Port Authority operates one or two ferries per day (depending on the day of the week) from the mainland port of Fajardo to Culebra; the trip takes about an hour.  The round-trip fare is $4.50 for adults, $2.25 for children 3 to 12 (free for 2 and under).  For reservations, call   800/981-2005, 742-3161, or 863-0705 (Fajardo). 

Getting Around With no public transportation, the only way to get to Culebra's beaches is by bike or rental car. 

There are a number of little car-rental agencies on the island, mostly renting small jeeps or similar vehicles.  Prices range from $45 to $85 daily, and as low as $325 on a weekly basis.  Carlos Jeep Rental, Parcela 2, Barriada Clark, Dewey (www.carlosjeeprental.com;   787/742-3514), lies a 3-minute ride from the airport.  The outfitter rents jeeps and, with advance notice, will meet you at the airport.  When you drop off your rental, the staff will also drive you back to the airport.  Charging exactly the same prices is another reliable operator, Coral Reef, Carretera Pedro Marquez 3, Dewey (  787/742-0055).  A final option for vehicles is Willie's Jeep Rental, Calle Escudero, Barriada Clark, Dewey (  787/742-3537), lying a 5-minute walk from the airport.  Vehicles here also start at $45 per day. 

Bike riding is a popular means of getting around the island's hills, dirt trails, and bad roads.  You can rent mountain bikes at Dick and Cathy (  787/742-0062) or Culebra Bike (  787/742-2209 or 209-2543).  Just call to reserve, and they will deliver to your hotel.  You can also rent scooters from JM Rentals (  787/717-7583), Culebra Scooter Rentals (  787/909-1069), or Scooter Rentals (  787/742-0195 or 367-0219), starting at $25 for 8 hours. 

Beaches

The island's most popular beach is Flamenco Beach ★, a mile-long (1.6km) horseshoe-shaped cove on the northwestern edge.  It's a mile-long arc of the silkiest, lightest white sand you will ever see, fronting a sapphire covered sea.  It's one of the most photographed beaches on the Caribbean, and with reason. 

Walk over the hill beside the beach to Playa Carlos Rosario ★.  The sands here aren't quite as good as those at Flamenco, but the snorkeling is even better in these clear waters.  A barrier reef protects this beach, so you are almost guaranteed tranquil waters.  Snorkelers can also walk south from Playa Carlos Rosario for a quarter-mile (.4km) to a place called "the Wall" ★.  There are 40-foot (12m) drop-offs into the water where you are likely to see schools of fish gliding by. 

The isolated Zoni Beach is a 1-mile (1.6km) strip of sand flanked by large boulders and scrub.  Located on the island's northeastern edge, about 7 miles (11km) from Dewey (Puebla), it's one of the most beautiful beaches on the island.  Snorkelers, but not scuba divers, find it particularly intriguing; there are beautiful reefs just offshore but the surf sometimes makes underwater visibility a bit murky during rough weather. 

Adventure Tours

Known for its beautiful corals, unspoiled underwater vistas, and absence of other divers, Culebra is what the Caribbean used to be before crowds of divers began exploring the sea.  At least 50 dive sites, all around the island, are worthwhile.  Culebra Divers, Calle Pedro Marquez 138 (  787/742-0803, www.culebradivers.com), offers a resort course for novice divers, including training in a sheltered cove, and a tank dive in 15 to 20 feet (4.6–6.1m) of water ($125).  Full PADI certification costs $395 and includes five open-water dives.  You'll have to arrange to study the material before arrival, and you'll do the real practice once you are here.  Certified divers pay $98 for a two-tank open-water dive.  The outfitter rents equipment for $15 daily.  It's rare that more than six divers go out in one of these boats on any day.  Captain Bill Penfield gives tours on his Pez-Vela (  787/215-3809), a 33-foot sailing catamaran with room for six passengers.  Go on a snorkel/picnic, deep-sea fishing, or simply take a leisure sail to nearby islands, coves, and deserted beaches.  Bill is an excellent and professional captain who will provide you with a quintessential Caribbean experience, and customize the tour to the wants of the group.  Lunch, drinks, and snacks are included in a $125 per person rate.  Tours are given daily, and group rates are available.  Snorkel SVI-Culebra (<http://sites.google.com/site/culebraislandsnorkel>;   787/930-2111) offers kayak snorkel and fishing trips for $95 full day, $65 half-day from the island that traverse waters choked with tropical fish and reefs and venture on to deserted cays.  Newcomer Blue Culebra (www.blueculebra.com;   787/433-6964) offers snorkeling, kayaking, and even a "beach-hopping" tour for between $35 and $75 per person.  The price includes snorkeling gear and flotation devices if necessary, as well as water, juices, and light snacks. 

Where to Eat

Moderate

Dinghy Dock AMERICAN/CARIBBEAN/PUERTO RICAN For the best of laid-back tropical Culebra, head here.  The hangout lies on the banks of Ensenada Honda, just south of the Dewey drawbridge, and it has a dock where dinghies and other boats anchor.  Come here for the bar or the restaurant—or perhaps both—and meet the locals along with visiting boaters from the Puerto Rican mainland.  It's a great spot for a drink and to watch the sunset; there are great breakfasts, lunches, and dinners.  There are tropical fruit-flavored waffles for breakfast, freshly grilled tuna for lunch, and a lobster-and-rice dish for dinner. 

Punta del Soldado Rd.,  outside Dewey.    787/742-0233 or 742-0581.  Reservations not necessary.  Breakfast $5–$10; lunch $5.25–$15; main courses $14–$30.  MC, V. Daily 8–11am, 11:30am–3pm, and 6–9pm. 

Mamacita's ★ PUERTO RICAN A colorful spot right on the Dewey channel, this guesthouse/restaurant has fine food and a lively bar and dining area on its back patio.  On weekends and holidays, a great breakfast buffet is served.  We recommend the chicken, shrimp, and sausage carbonara, or the blackened dorado with scampi butter for dinner; the Mexican salad is a good choice for lunch.  There are some nice rooms here; two suites have kitchenettes, and the one on the top floor has a great view. 

Calle Castelar 64–66.    787/742-0090.  Reservations not required.  Lunch $6.50–$15; main courses $15–$25.  D, MC, V. Fri–Wed 11am–3pm and 6–9:30pm; weekend breakfast buffet 8am–11am. 

Susie's ★ TROPICAL FUSION This cute, homey spot serves up surprisingly creative and tasty fusion food, which relies on local herbs and produce.  The curried yucca soup and the salmon-and-potato-patty appetizer with hot Chinese mustard will wow you.  The coriander-crusted lamb chops served with saffron risotto and the sautéed shrimp with garlic and tarragon cream sauce are examples of the type of food that just was not possible to get in Culebra a short time ago.  There's a comfortable dining room, or eat out back overlooking the canal.  There's enough to try on the menu to warrant repeat visits. 

Calle Sardinas 2, Dewey.    787/742-0574.  Reservations recommended.  Main courses $7–24.  MC, V. Tues–Sun 6–9:30pm. 

Inexpensive

El Batey DELI Across from the harbor and cooled by its breezes, this pub has great burgers, tasty criollo dishes, and a fun bar.  The menu offers a variety of appetizers and entrees that is especially popular with the late-night crowd, as this spot remains open after most other places to eat on the island.  There's a daily lunch special during the week.  On Saturday nights, young folk come out to dance to salsa.  There are pool tables and live music on some weekend nights. 

Parque de Pelota, Rte.  250, Km 0.1.    787/742-3828.  Appetizers $5, burgers $4–$10, entrees $8–$17.  MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11:30am–midnight, Fri–Sat 11:30am–2am. 

Heather's Pizzeria PIZZA This is the best place to go for pizza on the island.  With its funky decor, it is a popular hangout for local expatriates.  In addition to those piping-hot pies, the kitchen also turns out an array of freshly made salads, pastas, and well-stuffed sandwiches.  The food here is quite good, and it's a fun, friendly place. 

Calle Marquez 14, Dewey.    787/742-3175.  Reservations not necessary.  Pizzas, sandwiches, and platters $9–$25.  MC, V. Thurs–Tues 5–10pm, bar open till 11pm.  Closed 1–2 weeks in Oct.

Zaco's Tacos MEXICAN The first thing that hits you when you walk into this Mexican cantina is the bright blue walls and the wrestling/sports decor.  Long-time Culebra residents—Zach, a self-professed Mexican food lover and his wife, Monica—have laid out a full menu of tacos, burritos, and carnitas that deserve nothing but rave reviews for their taste and creativity.  To wash it all down, a smoothie or cocktail will do.  Reasonable prices and a friendly wait staff keep visitors going back for seconds . . .  and thirds. 

Calle Marquez 21.  www.zacostacos.com.    787/742-0243.  Appetizers and main courses $2–$9.  MC, V. Sat–Wed noon–8pm, Fri 5–8pm. 

Where to Stay

Moderate

Bahia Marina ★★ These one-bedroom and two-bedroom villas are among Culebra's finest accommodations, with wonderful amenities in a setting of natural wonder.  The properties are built across a ridge bordered by a 100-acre (40 hectare) nature reserve and overlooking Fulladoza Bay and a beautiful coastline.  The villas are cheerful, comfortable, well maintained, and well equipped, and they all have two bathrooms and balconies with killer views and constant breezes.  The units are sufficiently large for a family of four to fit comfortably in a one-bedroom; all have well-equipped kitchens (not kitchenettes).  Units have cable television, DVD players, and comfortable furnishings.  There are three restaurants with bars at this property's clubhouse, and you can find some of the best food on the island here, especially the Dakity Restaurant and the Shipwreck Bar & Grill.  There is also a circular sundeck that provides panoramic views, and two pools on different levels.  It's not the Ritz, but the service is wonderfully earnest and the friendly staff members are more than happy to share their love and knowledge of the island with you.  A sailing catamaran offers a daylong sail, among the best adventures for vacationers.  This property may have a higher per-night charge than many guesthouse rooms, but you are getting more for your money here.  It's great for families or small groups, but it's a challenge to get anybody over the phone to make reservations. 

Rte.  250, Km 2.5, Fulladoza Bay, Culebra, PR 00775.  www.bahiamarina.net.    787/742-0535.  Fax 787/742-1100.  28 units.  $219–$295 double.  Rates include continental breakfast.  MC, V. From Dewey (Puebla), follow Rte.  250 (also called Fulladoza Rd.)  along the south side of the bay for 1 3/4 miles (2.8km).  Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; DVD library; 3 pools.  In room: A/C, TV, kitchen, Wi-Fi, no phone. 

Casa Yaboa Casa Yaboa is one of the newest additions to Culebra's boutique hotel portfolio.  The eco-friendly inn is owned and managed by the owners of Susie's Restaurant, and is located on a secluded 5-acre (2-hectare) property bordered by the soft coralline, sand, and rounded-pebble beach that is perfect for snorkeling, swimming, diving, and sailing.  This small hotel features just two units, the Bubi House and the Tree Nest cottage, built entirely from cedar trees.  The cottages include a small kitchen and dining room area, and spectacular views of Mosquito Bay.  Lounge chairs, hammocks, BBQ, gardens, and walking trails abound to please those looking for an adventure stay or who just simply want to relax under the shade of the countless trees. 

Rte.  250, Culebra, PR 00775.  www.casayaboaculebra.com.    787/340-7058 or 413-0310.  2 cottages (shower only).  Tree Nest $180, Bubi House, $220.  MC, V. Amenities: 10% discount at Susie's Restaurant; watersports/equipment rentals.  In room: TV (Bubi House), kitchen. 

Club Seabourne Overlooking Fulladoza Bay, this property is set in a garden of crotons and palms, at the mouth of one of the island's best harbors, Ensenada Bay, which is reached via a winding country road from town.  There are villas scattered across the hillside and some rooms inside a central structure with the restaurant, bar, and main lobby.  The pool is a plus, and the restaurant remains one of the best on the island, with fresh lobster, shrimp, snapper, grouper, and conch, as well as steaks.  The patio bar is a great spot.  Dive packages and day sails can be arranged at the office.  Rooms are big and airy, and have been recently upgraded with new furnishings and flatscreen TVs. 

Fulladoza Rd. ( P.O. Box 357), Culebra, PR 00775.  www.clubseabourne.com.    787/742-3169.  Fax 787/742-0210.  12 units (shower only).  Winter $185–$339 double, off-season $169–$219 double.  Rates include continental breakfast.  AE, MC, V. From Dewey (Puebla), follow Rte.  250 (also called Fulladoza Rd.)  along the south side of the bay.  It's 1 1/2 miles/2.4km from town.  Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool; 1 room for those w/limited mobility.  In room: A/C, TV, fridge, no phone. 

Tamarindo Estates On 60 lush acres (24 hectares) beside a private bay, this is a small, intimate Puerto Rican beachfront resort of kitchen-equipped cottages.  Living here is like occupying your second home.  There is a simple, even pristine, aura here, but comfortable nonetheless, with panoramic views from the roofed verandas.  Each unit has either one or two bedrooms.  The mecca of this nicely secluded place is a swimming pool with an ocean view and a roofed deck.  There is easy access to shoreline snorkeling in gin-clear waters.  The resort lies a 10-minute drive from town, and all cottages are screened and have ceiling fans.  Each cottage has a shower-only bathroom.  Housekeeping is not provided. 

Tamarindo Beach Rd.,  Culebra, PR 00775.  www.tamarindoestates.com.    787/742-3343.  Fax 787/742-3342.  12 cottages (shower only).  Winter $169 double, $335 quad; off-season $140 double, $240 quad.  AE, MC, V. Amenities: Pool; beach house.  In room: A/C, ceiling fans, TV, kitchen. 

Inexpensive

Casa Ensenada Waterfront Guesthouse This is a laid-back, tropical-looking house with relatively humble but clean and comfortable bedrooms.  Many guests begin their day by taking a kayak over to the Dinghy Dock restaurant for breakfast and later return to sunbathe on the patio.  In the evening, guests gather again on the patio for drinks and for barbecue—the catch of the day on the grill.  Each unit is midsize and has a tiled, shower-only bathroom.  All are smoke-free.  You can rent the Pequeño unit, which sleeps two in a double bed, or the Grande unit for four (two in a king-size bed in the master bedroom and two on a double futon in the living room).  The on-site Estudio unit sleeps four, in twin beds and a double futon. 

Calle Escudero 142, Culebra, PR 00775.  www.casaensenada.com.    787/241-4441 or 866/210-0709.  3 units (shower only).  Winter $125–$175 double; spring and summer $100–$150 double; fall $85–$150 double (taxes included in rates).  MC, V. Amenities: Bikes; library; watersports/equipment rentals.  In room: A/C, kitchenette. 

Posada la Hamaca ★   This was one of Culebra's original guesthouses, lying in town next to the Dewey Bridge.  Although competition has opened to challenge it, this place is still going strong and was recently spruced up to keep up its appeal.  Basic but bright and comfortable rooms are housed in a modest island home.  Although simply furnished, each of the rooms is well maintained and tidily kept, each with a private bathroom with shower.  Beach towels, coolers, and free ice are provided for beach outings.  You'll also find an exterior shower to wash the sand off your body before you enter.  Room no.  8 is the coziest nest and is often rented by honeymooners.  Some units are large enough to accommodate four guests, making them suitable for families.  One apartment is spacious enough to accommodate 8 to 12 guests. 

Calle Castelar 68, Culebra, PR 00775.  www.posada.com.    787/742-3516.  10 units.  Winter $89–$155; off-season $80–$139.  Prices cheaper if booked online.  MC, V. Amenities: Wi-Fi.  In room: A/C, TV, kitchenette (in some). 
Chapter 11: Planning Your Trip to Puerto Rico

Getting There

Puerto Rico's unique political situation makes it a hassle-free destination for U.S. travelers, who will basically be subject to the same strictures as interstate travel.  All you need is a government-issued identification.  You won't face any of the hassles of foreign government entry requirements and processes you would at many other Caribbean destinations.  Also, several major airlines offer direct flights to airports in San Juan and Aguadilla from major cities throughout the United States, especially from the East Coast, and beachfront guesthouses or big scale hotels are minutes from the airports.  Being part of the U.S. also means there are no currency exchange hoops to jump through and your bank card will work as easily here as it will at home. 

It's a 3 1/2-hour flight from New York City, and it's quick for carry-on passengers, who can be at their destinations minutes after touchdown. ( Baggage claim takes forever, and the airport is not being well maintained.) 

Getting to your destination fast is a big reason to visit Puerto Rico.  The country's ease of entry makes it a good alternative to not only Aruba or Cancun for that winter getaway, but a viable option to Vermont or New Hampshire for a long weekend getaway in October.  This chapter discusses the where, when, and how of your trip to Puerto Rico—everything required to plan your trip and get it on the road.  It's what you need to do before you go to make this largely hassle-free destination even more manageable. 

By Plane

Puerto Rico is by far the most accessible of the Caribbean islands, with frequent airline service.  It's also the major airline hub of the Caribbean Basin.  Because it's part of the United States, there are no hassles for U.S. travelers related to border entry, currency exchange, etc. 

Puerto Rico has 60 daily nonstop flights to and from 20 destinations in the continental U.S., the most in the Caribbean.  Seven regional airlines serve 22 Caribbean destinations with 87 daily nonstop flights, while seven airlines provide close to 70 weekly flights to seven international destinations. 

Airlines traveling to Puerto Rico include: American Airlines (www.aa.com;   800/433-7300 in the U.S. and Canada); Air Tran Airways (airtranairways.com;   800/247-8726); Delta (www.delta.com;   800/221-1212 in the U.S. and Canada); JetBlue (www.jetblue.com;   800/538-2583 in the U.S. and Canada); Spirit Air (www.spiritair.com;   800/772-7117 in the U.S. and Canada); United Airlines (www.united.com;   800/231-0856, or 800/864-8331 in the U.S. and Canada); US Airways (www.usairways.com;   800/622-1015 in the U.S. and Canada); Air Canada (www.aircanada.com;   888/247-2262); British Airways (www.britishairways.com;   800/AIRWAYS 247-9297] in the U.S. and Canada); Condor ([www.condor.com;   866/960-7915 in the U.S. and Canada, or +49 (0) 180 57/0-7202 in Germany); Iberia (www.iberia.com;   800/772-4642 in the U.S. and Canada, or 902/400-500 in Spain); LIAT (www.liatairline.com;   866/549-5428 from Puerto Rico and the U.S. Virgin Islands, or 888/844-5428 from most elsewhere in the Caribbean, or 268/480-5601 from elsewhere, including the U.S); Seaborne Airlines (www.seaborneairlines.com;   888/359-8687); and WestJet (www.westjet.com;   855/547-2451 in the U.S., or 888/937-8538). 

Getting Around

By Plane

Cape Air (www.flycapeair.com;   866/FLY-CAPEAIR [359-2273]) flies from Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport to Mayagüez, Ponce, and Vieques several times a day.  They also offer many flights daily to St. Thomas, St. Croix, and Tortola.  Seaborne offers service to several Caribbean islands and Vieques.  A handful of small airlines service Vieques and Culebra with small planes that seat about a dozen passengers. 

American Eagle (www.aa.com;   800/433-7300) is one of the leading regional air carriers in the world and a local leader with 37 destinations in the Caribbean and the Bahamas.  It's your ticket from San Juan to the greater Caribbean. 

By Car

There is good news and bad news about driving in Puerto Rico.  First, the good news: Puerto Rico offers some of the most scenic drives in all the Caribbean. 

Of course, if you want to stay only in San Juan, having a car is not necessary.  You can get around San Juan on foot or by bus, taxi, and in some cases, hotel minivan. 

Now the bad news: Renting a car and driving in Puerto Rico, depending on the routes you take, can lead to a number of frustrating experiences, as our readers relate to us year after year.  These readers point out that local drivers are often reckless, as evidenced by the number of fenders with bashed-in sides.  The older coastal highways provide the most scenic routes but are often congested.  Some of the roads, especially in the mountainous interior, are just too narrow for automobiles.  If you do rent a car, proceed with caution along these poorly paved and maintained roads, which most often follow circuitous routes.  Cliffslides or landslides are not uncommon. 

Some local agencies may tempt you with special reduced prices.  But if you're planning to tour the island by car, you won't find any local branches that will help you if you experience trouble.  And some of the agencies widely advertising low-cost deals won't take credit cards and want cash in advance.  Also, watch out for hidden extra costs, which sometimes proliferate among the smaller and not very well-known firms, and difficulties connected with resolving insurance claims. 

If you do rent a vehicle, it's best to stick with the old reliables: Avis, Budget, or Hertz.  Each of these companies offers minivan transport to its office and car depot.  Be alert to the minimum-age requirements for car rentals in Puerto Rico.  Both Avis and Hertz require that renters be 25 or older; at Budget, renters must be 21 or older, but those between the ages of 21 and 24 pay a $10 to $25 daily surcharge to the agreed-upon rental fee. 

Added security comes from an antitheft double-locking mechanism that has been installed in most of the rental cars available in Puerto Rico.  Car theft is common in Puerto Rico, so extra precautions are always needed. 

Distances are often posted in kilometers rather than miles (1km = 0.62 mile), but speed limits are displayed in miles per hour. 

International visitors should note that insurance and taxes are almost never included in quoted rental-car rates in the U.S. Be sure to ask your rental agency about additional fees for these.  They can add a significant cost to your car rental.  Note: In Puerto Rico, gasoline is sold by the liter, not by the gallon.  The cost of gasoline is often somewhat cheaper than in the United States.  Current prices are hovering around 98¢ a liter (3.78 of which make up a gallon).  Taxes are already included in the printed price.  One U.S. gallon equals 3.8 liters or .85 imperial gallons. 

By Public Transportation

Cars and minibuses, known as públicos, provide low-cost transportation around the island.  Their license plates have the letters "P" or "PD" following the numbers.  They serve all the main towns of Puerto Rico; passengers are let off and picked up along the way, both at designated stops and when someone flags them down.  Rates are set by the Public Service Commission.  Públicos usually operate during daylight hours, departing from the main plaza (central square) of a town. 

Information about público routes between San Juan and Mayagüez is available at Lineas Sultana, Calle Esteban González 898, Urbanización Santa Rita, Río Piedras (  787/765-9377).  Information about público routes between San Juan and Ponce is available from Choferes Unidos de Ponce, Terminal de Carros Públicos, Calle Vive in Ponce (  787/764-0540).  There are several operators listed under Lineas de Carros in the local Yellow Pages. 

Fares vary according to whether the público will make a detour to pick up or drop off a passenger at a specific locale. ( If you want to deviate from the predetermined routes, you'll pay more than if you wait for a público beside the main highway.)  Fares from San Juan to Mayagüez and from San Juan to Ponce range from $20 to $40.  Be warned that although prices of públicos are low, the routes are slow, with frequent stops, often erratic routing, and lots of inconvenience. 

Getting around San Juan is getting easier all the time.  You have two local bus lines, a publíco system that covers the entire metro area, and the Tren Urbano, a light urban rail system connecting Santurce with the Hato Rey financial district, the university and medical center districts, and important suburban locations in Bayamón and Guaynabo.  Tren Urbano riders can transfer free to city buses and vice versa. 

So if you are staying in San Juan, having a car is not necessary.  You can get around San Juan on foot or by bus, taxi, and in some cases, hotel minivan.  The Tren Urban, a light rail system connecting Santurce to the financial, university, and medical districts, and important suburban destinations in Bayamón and Guaynabo, is a great ride.  Prices were slashed in half to .75¢, on par with public buses, and riders can transfer into the bus system free of charge.  The integration is aimed at increasing ridership throughout the system, and ferries from Old San Juan to Catano and the Hato Rey financial district are also being integrated into the system. 

The train and accompanying buses cover virtually all of San Juan.  They keep special expanded schedules during big events, such as a festival in Old San Juan, and also for when big acts play at the Puerto Rico Coliseum, or the Tourism Company throws a New Year's Eve party at the convention center.  For more information, call   866/900-1284, or log onto www.ati.gobierno.pr. 

Taxis are also reasonably priced and work late into the evening in the city's major districts.  So they are your go-to option for a night of clubbing or to get home after a late night. 

Tips on Where to Stay

Hotels & Resorts

There is no rigid classification of Puerto Rican hotels.  The word "deluxe" is often used—or misused—when "first class" might be a more appropriate term.  We've presented fairly detailed descriptions of the hotels in this book, so you'll get an idea of what to expect once you're there. 

Puerto Rico has had a bum rap for bad service, but our experience is that service in hotels and restaurants has been on a dramatic upswing over the last decade.  There is still the slow tropical pace, what folks mean when they talk about "island time." 

Ask detailed questions when booking a room.  Entertainment in Puerto Rico is often alfresco, so light sleepers obviously won't want a room directly over a band.  In general, back rooms cost less than oceanfront rooms, and lower rooms cost less than upper-floor units.  Always ascertain whether transfers (which can be expensive) are included.  And make sure that you know exactly what is free and what costs money.  Some resorts seem to charge every time you breathe and might end up costing more than a deluxe hotel that includes most everything in the price. 

Also factor in transportation costs, which can mount quickly if you stay 5 days to a week.  If you want to go to the beach every day, it might be wise to book a hotel in Condado, Isla Verde, or Ocean Park and not stay in romantic Old San Juan, from which you'll spend a lot of time and money transferring back and forth between your hotel and the beach. 

The most important question to ask is if the property charges a hotel or resort fee, which can be hefty, as much as 16% of the cost of your entire stay.  Once the provenance of the biggest properties, the fee is also being employed by your better guest houses these days.  Knowing such fees is essential information when deciding where to stay, as it could make what seemed a good deal look suddenly otherwise.  The practice is largely confined to San Juan and resort properties out on the island, but make sure to verify (we've included the fee after the room rates in this guide). 

Most San Juan hotels are along beaches that can be exposed to strong Atlantic coast, but there are more protected areas along the northern coast, whether in Dorado, Rio Grande, or Fajardo, and along the Caribbean coasts in southern Puerto Rico, from Palmas del Mar and Vieques and Culebra in the east to Cabo Rojo and Rincón in the west. 

MAP vs. AP, or Do You Want CP or EP? 

All resorts offer a European Plan (EP) rate, which means you pay for the price of a room.  That leaves you free to dine around at night at various other resorts or restaurants without restriction.  Another plan preferred by many is the Continental Plan (CP), which means you get your room and a continental breakfast of juice, coffee, bread, jam, and so on, included in a set price.  This plan is preferred by many because most guests don't like to "dine around" at breakfast time. 

Another major option is the Modified American Plan (MAP), which includes breakfast and one main meal of the day, either lunch or dinner.  The final choice is the American Plan (AP), which includes breakfast, lunch, and dinner. 

At certain resorts you will save money by booking either the MAP or AP because discounts are granted.  If you dine a la carte for lunch and dinner at various restaurants, your final dining bill will no doubt be much higher than if you stayed on the MAP or AP. 

Some hotels are moving towards all-inclusive labeling that includes meals at different on-site restaurants, and perhaps other activities.  It is happening at both large resorts with numerous restaurants and guesthouses along isolated coast or mountain areas. 

These plans might save you money, but if, as part of your holiday, you like to eat in various places, you might be disappointed.  You face the same dining room every night, unless the resort you're staying at has many different restaurants on the dining plan. 

In San Juan, which is a fabulous culinary crossroads that can keep visiting gourmands satiated for weeks, they are a particularly bad idea. 

Puerto Rican Guesthouses

A unique type of accommodation is the guesthouse, where Puerto Ricans themselves usually stay when they travel.  Ranging in size from 7 to 25 rooms, they offer a familial atmosphere.  Many are on or near the beach; some have pools or sundecks, and a number serve meals. 

In Puerto Rico, however, the term "guesthouse" has many meanings.  Some guesthouses are like simple motels built around pools.  Others have small individual cottages with their own kitchenettes, constructed around a main building in which you'll often find a bar and a restaurant serving local food.  Some are surprisingly comfortable, often with private bathrooms and swimming pools.  You may or may not have air-conditioning.  The rooms are sometimes cooled by ceiling fans or by the trade winds blowing through open windows at night. 

For value, the guesthouse can't be topped.  If you stay at a guesthouse, you can journey over to a big beach resort and use its seaside facilities for only a small fee.  Although bereft of frills, the guesthouses we've recommended are clean and safe for families or single women.  However, the cheapest ones are not places where you'd want to spend a lot of time because of their modest furnishings. 

For further information on guesthouses, contact the Puerto Rico Tourism Company, La Princesa Building, Paseo La Princesa 2, Old San Juan, PR 00902 (  800/866-7827 or 787/721-2400). 

Paradores

In an effort to lure travelers beyond the hotels and casinos of San Juan's historic district to the tranquil natural beauty of the island's countryside, the Puerto Rico Tourism Company offers paradores puertoriqueños (charming country inns), which are comfortable bases for exploring the island's varied attractions.  Vacationers seeking a peaceful idyll can also choose from several privately owned and operated guesthouses. 

Using Spain's parador system as a model, the Puerto Rico Tourism Company established the paradores in 1973 to encourage tourism across the island.  Each of the paradores is situated in a historic place or site of unusual scenic beauty and must meet high standards of service and cleanliness.  Some of the paradores are located in the mountains and others by the sea.  Most have pools, and all offer excellent Puerto Rican cuisine.  Many are within easy driving distance of San Juan. 

Properties must meet certain benchmark standards of quality to be admitted to the program, so tourists feel comfortable staying at the property.  One complaint about the program is that variances in quality still range widely from one property to the next.  For more information, call   800/866-7827 or check out www.gotoparadores.com. 

Some of the best paradores are in western Puerto Rico (see chapter 9).  The Tourism Company also operates a similar program which promotes worthy local restaurants called Mesones Gastronómicos (  800/981-7575). 

Villas & Vacation Homes

There are also excellent vacation homes in resort communities such as Rincón and Vieques.  For luxurious Old San Juan apartment rentals, check Vida Urbana, Calle Cruz 255, Old San Juan, PR 00901 (  787/587-3031; www.vidaurbanapr.com).  Two short-term specialists in Condado and Isla Verde are San Juan Vacations, Cond.  Marbella del Caribe, Ste.  S-5, Isla Verde 00979 (www.sanjuanvacations.com;   800/266-3639 or 787/727-1591), and Ronnie's Properties, Calle Marseilles 14, Ritz Condominium, Ste.  11-F, San Juan, PR 00907 (www.ronniesproperties.com). 

Private apartments are rented either with or without maid service.  This is more of a no-frills option than the villas and condos.  An apartment might not be in a building with a swimming pool, and it might not have a front desk to help you.  Among the major categories of vacation homes, cottages offer the most freewheeling way to live.  Most cottages are fairly simple, many opening in an ideal fashion onto a beach, whereas others may be clustered around a communal pool.  Many contain no more than a simple bedroom together with a small kitchen and bathroom.  For the peak winter season, reservations should be made at least 5 or 6 months in advance. 

Travel experts agree that savings, especially for a family of three to six people, or two or three couples, can range from 50% to 60% over what a hotel would cost.  If there are only two in your party, these savings probably don't apply. 

Rental Agencies

Agencies specializing in renting properties in Puerto Rico include:

• VHR, Worldwide, 235 Kensington Ave.,  Norwood, NJ 07648 (www.vhrww.com;   800/633-3284 or 201/767-9393), offers the most comprehensive portfolio of luxury villas, condominiums, resort suites, and apartments for rent in the Caribbean, including complete packages for airfare and car rentals. 

• Hideaways Aficionado, 767 Islington St., Portsmouth, NH 03801 (www.hideaways.com;   800/843-4433 or 603/430-4433), provides a 144-page guide with illustrations of its accommodations, so that you can get an idea of what you're renting.  Most villas come with maid service.  You can also ask this travel club about discounts on plane fares and car rentals. 

Tours

Before you start your search for the lowest airfare, you might want to consider booking your flight as part of a travel package such as an escorted tour or a package tour.  What you lose in adventure, you'll gain in time and money saved when you book accommodations, and maybe even food and entertainment, along with your flight. 

One good source of package deals is the airlines themselves.  Also consult Vacation Together (www.vacationtogether.com;   877/444-4547), which allows you to search for and book packages offered by a number of tour operators and airlines.  The United States Tour Operators Association's website (www.ustoa.com) has a search engine that allows you to look for operators that offer packages to a specific destination. 

Travel packages are also listed on major Internet travel sites and in the travel section of the local Sunday newspaper.  Liberty Travel (www.libertytravel.com;   888/271-1584), one of the biggest packagers in the Northeast, is a bigger advertiser in print and other media, but its website typically has at least a half dozen deals to the island at any given time. 

Tour Scan Caribbean Vacations (www.tourscan.com;   800/962-2080) finds the best deals from the 10,000 vacation offers its Caribbean travel experts analyze.  You can see some results online. 

The Active Vacation Planner

There are watersports opportunities throughout Puerto Rico, from San Juan's waterfront hotels to eastern resorts and the offshore islands of Vieques and Culebra all the way to the Rincón on the west coast and Cabo Rojo in the south. 

Beach Warning

In San Juan, don't go walking along the beaches at night, even as tempting as it may be to do with your lover.  On unguarded beaches, you will have no way to protect yourself or your valuables should you be approached by a robber or mugger, which can happen.  The exceptions may be the beaches in front of Barbosa Park in Ocean Park and Parquedel Indio in Condado, which are lit up at night and draw many evening visitors.  Beaches on the island, especially in vacation towns such as Vieques and Culebra, Boquerón, and Isabela, are genuinely safer, but it's still a good idea not to stray too far off the beaten path. 

Boating & Sailing

The waters off Puerto Rico provide excellent boating in all seasons.  Winds average 10 to 15 knots virtually year-round.  Marinas provide facilities and services on par with any others in the Caribbean, and many have powerboats or sailboats for rent, either crewed or bareboat charter. 

Puerto Rico is ringed by marinas.  In San Juan alone, there are three large ones.  The upscale Club Nautico de San Juan (  787/722-0177) and neighboring San Juan Bay Marina (  787/721-8062) are adjacent to the Condado bridge and the Convention Center district in Miramar.  The other marina, the Cangrejos Yacht Club (Rte.  187, Piñones;   787/791-1015), is near the airport, outside Isla Verde at the entrance to Piñones. 

All three have several sailing charters and dive and fishing operators. 

Fajardo, on Puerto Rico's northeast corner, boasts seven marinas, including the Caribbean's largest, the Puerto del Rey Marina (Rte.  3, Km 51.4;   787/860-1000 or 801-3010), and the popular Villa Marina Yacht Harbour (Rte.  987, Km 1.3;   787/863-5131 or 863-5011), offering the shortest ride to the best snorkeling grounds and offshore beaches.  Other town marinas include Puerto Chico (Rte.  987, Km 2.4;   787/863-0834) and Puerto Real (Playa Puerto Real;   787/863-2188). 

Along the south coast, one of the most established and charming marinas is the Ponce Yacht & Fishing Club (La Guancha, Ponce;   787/842-9003). 

But marinas, both small and large, can be found throughout island coasts.  Check local listings for a "Club Nautico."  Those with pleasure crafts, sailing, and watersports offerings catering to tourists include Club Nautico de Boquerón (  787/851-1336) and Club Nautico de La Parguera (  787/899-5590), which are each located just outside their respective village centers. 

Several sailing and ocean racing regattas are held in Puerto Rico annually.  The east of Puerto Rico and the southwest are particularly attractive for sailors.  Fajardo is the start of a series of ports, extending from Puerto Rico's own offshore islands through the U.S. and British Virgin Islands to the east, which is probably the Caribbean's top sailing destination. 

The easiest way to experience the joys of sailing is to go out on a day trip leaving from one of the Fajardo marinas (with transportation from San Juan hotels often included).  The trips usually take place on large luxury catamarans or sailing yachts, with a bar serving drinks and refreshments, a sound system, and other creature comforts.  Typically, after a nice sail, the vessel weighs anchor at a good snorkeling spot, then makes a stop on one of the beautiful sand beaches on the small islands off the Fajardo coast.  Operators include Traveler Sailing Catamaran (  787/853-2821), East Island Excursions (  787/860-3434), Catamaran Spread Eagle (  787/887-8821), and Erin Go Bragh Charters (  787/860-4401). 

Also on the east coast is Karolette Charter, Palmas del Mar, Calle AB-12, Rte.  3, Km 86.4, Humacao (  787/637-7992 or 850-7442), which offers snorkeling trips for $107 per person, or charters for $640 for 4 1/2 hours or $840 for 6 hours. 

Out west, Katarina Sail Charters (  787/823-SAIL [7245]) in Rincón gives daily sailing trips aboard a 32-foot (9.8m) catamaran; there are both a day sail and a sunset sail on offer. 

For the typical visitor interested in watersports—not the serious yachter—our favorite place for fun in the surf is the aptly named San Juan Water Fun on Isla Verde Beach in back of the Wyndham El San Juan Hotel & Casino, Avenida Isla Verde in Isla Verde, San Juan (  787/644-2585 or 643-4510).  Here you can rent everything from a two-seater kayak for $30 per hour to a banana boat that holds eight passengers and costs $15 per person for a 20-minute ride. 

If you're staying in eastern Puerto Rico, the best place for watersports rentals is the watersports center at Rio Mar Beach Resort, 6000 Rio Mar Blvd.,  Rio Grande (  787/888-6000), with scuba and snorkeling trips, and a great selection of small boats.  WaveRunners cost about $100 per hour, and two-seat kayaks go for $35 per hour. 

In the southwest, Pino's Boat & Water Fun (  787/821-6864 or 484-8083) at Guánica's Playa Santa has everything from paddleboats or kayaks to water scooters for rent. 

Camping

Puerto Rico abounds in remote sandy beaches, lush tropical forests, and mountain lakesides that make for fine camping. 

Although it has been technically illegal to camp on beaches (except in designated areas) for the last decade, it is commonly done in off-the-beaten path coastal areas, especially in Guánica, Isabela, Fajardo, and the offshore islands of Vieques and Culebra. 

Also, there are more than enough campgrounds available in coastal areas, as well as in the mountains and local state forests and nature reserves. 

Some of the nicest campgrounds, as well as the best equipped and safest, are those run by the government Compañia de Parques Nacionales (Av.  Fernández Juncos 1611, Santurce; www.parquesnacionalespr.com;   787/622-5200). 

Six of the eight campsites it operates are located on the coast—at Luquillo, Fajardo, Vieques, Arroyo, Añasco, and Vega Baja.  It also runs two fine campgrounds in the mountain town of Maricao and in Camuy's Cave Park. 

Some of these are simple places where you erect your own tent, although they are outfitted with electricity and running water; some are simple cabins, sometimes with fireplaces.  Showers and bathrooms are communal.  To stay at a campsite costs between $15 and $25 per night per tent. 

Many sites offer very basic cabins for rent.  Each cabin is equipped with a full bathroom, a stove, a refrigerator, two beds, and a table and chairs.  However, most of your cooking will probably be tastier if you do it outside at one of the on-site barbecues.  In nearly all cases, you must provide your own sheets and towels. 

The agency, the National Parks Company, in English, also operates more upscale "vacation centers," which feature rustic cabins and more tourist-ready "villas," on par with many island inns. 

State forests run by the Departamento de Recursos Naturales y Ambientales also allow camping with permits.  Except for cabins at Monte Guilarte State Forest, which cost $20 per night, camping sites are available at $5 per person.  For further information about permits, contact the DRNA (Rte.  8838, Km 6.3, Sector El Cinco, Río Piedras;   787/999-2200). 

There are seven major on-island camping sites in the following state forests: Cambalache State Forest, near Barceloneta; Carite State Forest, near Patillas; Guajataca State Forest, near Quebradillas; Monte Guilarte State Forest, near Adjuntas; Susua State Forest, near Yauco; Río Abajo State Forest, near Arecibo; and our favorite, Toro Negro Forest Reserve, near Villaba, where you can camp in the shadow of Puerto Rico's highest peaks. 

It's also possible to camp at either of two wildlife refuges, Isla de Mona Wildlife Refuge, lying some 50 miles (80km) off the west coast of Puerto Rico surrounded by the rough seas of Mona Passage, and at Lago Lucchetti Wildlife Refuge, a beautiful mountain reservoir between Yauco and Ponce. 

Meanwhile, visitors can also camp at El Yunque National Forest (  787/888-1810), which is under the jurisdiction of the U.S. Forest Service.  There is no cost, but permits are required.  They can be obtained in person at the Catalina Service Center (Rte.  191, Km 4.3) daily from 8am to 4:30pm, and weekends at the Palo Colorado Visitor Center (Rte.  191, Km 11.9) from 9:30am to 4pm.  It's primitive camping within the rainforest. 

Deep-Sea Fishing

While fishing is good year round, the winter season from October to early March is among the best.  Blue marlin can be caught all summer and into the fall, and renowned big-game fishing tournaments take place in August and September. 

Charters are available at marinas in major cities and tourism areas.  Most boats range between 32 and 50 feet; fit six passengers; can be chartered for half- or full-day; and usually include bait, crew, and equipment. 

Big game fish are found close to shore across Puerto Rico, so you won't waste time traveling to fishing spots.  A mile off the San Juan coast, the ocean floor drops 600 feet (183m), and the awesome Puerto Rico Trench, a 500-mile-long (805km) fault that plunges to a depth of 28,000 feet (8354m), lies about 75 miles (121km) directly north.  It's a 20-minute ride to where the big game fish are biting, so it's possible to leave in the morning, make the catch of the day, and be back at the marina in the early afternoon. 

Deep-sea fishing is top-notch throughout the island.  Allison tuna, white and blue marlin, sailfish, wahoo, dolphinfish (mahimahi), mackerel, and tarpon are some of the fish that can be caught in Puerto Rican waters, where 30 world records have been broken.  Charter arrangements can be made through most major hotels and resorts and at most marinas.  The big game fishing grounds are very close offshore from San Juan, making the capital an excellent place to hire a charter.  A half-day of deep-sea fishing (4 hours) starts at around $550, while full-day charters begin at around $900.  Most charters hold six passengers in addition to the crew. 

In San Juan, experienced operators include Capt.  Mike Benítez at Benítez Fishing Charters (  787/723-2292), as well as Castillo Fishing Charters (  787/726-5752) and Caribbean Outfitters (  787/396-8346). 

Rincón also has a number of deep-sea fishing charters, such as Makaira Fishing Charters (  787/823-4391 or 299-7374) and Moondog Charters (  787/823-3059). 

In Palmas del Mar, which has some of the best year-round fishing in the Caribbean, you'll find Capt.  Bill Burleson (see "Palmas del Mar," in chapter 10). 

Golf

With nearly 30 golf courses, including several championship links, Puerto Rico is rightly called the "Scotland," or the "golf capital," of the Caribbean, especially because they have been designed by the likes of Robert Trent Jones, Sr.,  his son Rees Jones, Greg Norman, George and Tom Fazio, Jack Nicklaus, Arthur Hills, and Puerto Rico's own Chi Chi Rodriguez. 

Many of the courses are jewels of landscape architecture, running through verdant tropical forest and former coconut groves, or winding in dramatic switchbacks aside a breathtaking stretch of coast.  Year-round summer weather and mostly gentle breezes add to the joy of playing here. 

The bad news is it's often quite expensive to tee off in Puerto Rico, with prices starting at $120 and ranging up to nearly $200. 

There are some bargains, however, particularly the Berwind Country Club (  787/876-5380) in Loiza (the closest course to San Juan) and the Punta Borinquén Golf Club, Rte.  107 (  787/890-2987), 2 miles (3.2km) north of Aquadilla's center.  Berwind has a breathtaking setting on a former coconut plantation, while the Aguadilla course struts across a beautiful patch of coast. 

The legendary Dorado courses are 35 minutes west of San Juan at the Dorado Beach Resort & Club (  787/796-8961), the scene of world championships and legendarily difficult holes, making it still among the most challenging in the Caribbean.  Jack Nicklaus rates the challenging 13th hole at the Dorado as one of the top 10 in the world.  See chapter 6 for more details. 

Río Grande, however, is becoming as important a center for golf as Dorado.  The Wyndham Río Mar Beach Resort golf offerings (  787/888-7060) have world-class rainforest and coastal courses, designed, respectively, by Greg Norman and Tom and George Fazio.  The Trump International Golf Club (  787/657-2000) is actually four different 9-hole courses sprawled out across 1,200 acres (486 hectares) of coast.  Each course is named after its surrounding environment: the Ocean, the Palms, the Mountains, and the Lakes.  Also in town is the Bahia Beach course (  787/957-5800), recently renovated as part of a new St. Regis resort development, with some purists touting it as among the best yet. 

Also, on the east coast, holes 11 through 15 at the Golf Club at Palmas del Mar have been called the toughest 5 successive holes in the Caribbean.  At El Conquistador Resort & Golden Door Spa,the spectacular oceanfront resort at Las Croabas, east of San Juan, you play along 200-foot (61m) changes in elevation that provide panoramic vistas. 

There are now golf courses along the south coast, in Coamo and Ponce, as well as the southwest in Cabo Rojo.  These are a needed complement to the north-coast courses.  The Costa Caribe Golf & Country Club (  787/848-1000 or 812-2650), on the site of the Hilton Ponce Golf & Casino (see chapter 7), commands views of the ocean and mountains; while the Club Deportivo del Oeste, Hwy.  102, Km 15.4, Barrio Jogudas, Cabo Rojo (  787/851-8880 or 254-3748), is more no-frills. 

Hiking

The mountainous interior of Puerto Rico provides ample opportunities for hill climbing and nature treks.  These are especially appealing because panoramas open at the least-expected moments, often revealing spectacular views of the distant sea. 

The most popular, most beautiful, and most spectacular trekking spot is El Yunque, the sprawling "jungle" maintained by the U.S. Forest Service and the only rainforest on U.S. soil. 

El Yunque is part of the Caribbean National Forest, which lies a 45-minute drive east of San Juan.  More than 250 species of trees and some 200 types of ferns have been identified here.  Some 60 species of birds inhabit El Yunque, including the increasingly rare Puerto Rican parrot.  Such rare birds as the elfin woods warbler, the green mango hummingbird, and the Puerto Rican lizard-cuckoo live here. 

Park rangers have clearly marked the trails that are ideal for walking.  See "El Yunque," in chapter 6, for more details. 

A lesser forest, but one that is still intriguing to visit, is the Maricao State Forest, near the coffee town of Maricao.  This forest is in western Puerto Rico, east of the town of Mayagüez.  For more details, see "Mayagüez," in chapter 8. 

Ponce is the best center for exploring some of the greatest forest reserves in the Caribbean Basin, notably Toro Negro Forest Reserve with its Lake Guineo (the lake at the highest elevation on the island); the Guánica State Forest, ideal for hiking and bird-watching; and the Carite Forest Reserve, a 6,000-acre (2,428-hectare) park known for its dwarf forest.  For more details, see "Ponce," in chapter 7. 

Equally suitable for hiking are the protected lands (especially the Río Camuy Cave Park) whose topography is characterized as "karst"—that is, limestone riddled with caves, underground rivers, and natural crevasses and fissures.  Although these regions pose additional risks and technical problems for trekkers, some people prefer the opportunities they provide for exploring the territory both above and below its surface.  See "Arecibo & Camuy," in chapter 6, for details about the Río Camuy Caves. 

Outdoor Adventure

If you'd like to experience Puerto Rico on horseback, Hacienda Caribalí (www.haciendacaribalipuertorico.com;   787/889-5829 or 690-3781) offers 2-hour tours on majestic Paso Fino horses that take riders along the Mamayes River in the shadow of El Yunque rainforest for $60.  The 600-acre (243-hectare) ranch also offers four-wheelers and mountain bike tours, and has a go-kart track.  If you are way out west, check out Julie, the cowgirl of Rincón, at Pintos 'R' Us (  787/516-7090).  The 2-hour horseback ride tour ($55 per person) is a fabulous ride through gorgeous beach and coastal headlands, winding country roads, and forested mountain paths.  Julie is a friendly and fun guide, enthusiastic about the sport and the wonders of Rincón, and her horses are one smooth ride.  Tropical Trail Rides (www.tropicaltrailrides.com;   787/872-9256) gives beach tours on Paso Fino horses at a beautiful locale in Isabela, which also has cavernous cliffs and tropical forests, as well as at the 2,200 acre Hacienda Campo Rico in Carolina, in the San Juan metropolitan area.  There are a number of tours, including a sunset ride, but most last 2 hours.  Prices start at $40. 

Several other tour operators cater to special tastes, including Castillo Tours & Travel Service, 2413 Laurel St., Punta Las Marias, Santurce (www.castillotours.com;   787/791-6195), which is known for some of the best deep-sea fishing, rainforest, and catamaran tours. 

AdvenTours, Luquillo (www.adventourspr.com;   787/530-8311), features customized private tours that include such activities as bird-watching, hiking, camping, visits to coffee plantations, and kayaking. 

Eco Xcursion Aquatica, Rte.  191, Km 1.7, Rio Grande, Fajardo (  787/888-2887), offers some of the best rainforest hikes and mountain-bike tours, both for individuals and groups.  They also offer kayak tours to one of several Bioluminescent Bays ★★ in Fajardo, where you enter the water at dusk and paddle through calm water teeming with small marine organisms that respond to the slightest touch by glowing an eerie greenish yellow.  Las Tortugas Adventures, P.O. Box 1637, Canóvanas (www.kayak-pr.com;   787/809-0253 or 637-8356), also runs tours to Fajardo's bio bay, as well as river tours of the rainforest and Piñones wetlands, and kayaking/snorkeling trips to deserted beaches, rimmed with reefs and teeming schools of tropical fish.  Aventuras Tierra Adentro (www.aventuraspr.com;   787/766-0470) offers the best island adventure tours, focusing on hiking through virgin forests, rock climbing, or cliff jumping.  Four different adventures are offered, costing $150 to $170 per person, which includes transportation from San Juan.  Most of the jaunts take place on weekends. 

Scuba Diving & Snorkeling

Scuba Diving The continental shelf, which surrounds Puerto Rico on three sides, is responsible for an abundance of coral reefs, caves, sea walls, and trenches for scuba diving and snorkeling. 

Open-water reefs off the southeastern coast near Humacao are visited by migrating whales and manatees.  Many caves are located near Isabela on the west coast.  A large canyon off the island's south coast is ideal for experienced open-water divers.  Caves and the sea wall at La Parguera are also favorites.  Vieques and Culebra islands have coral formations.  Mona Island offers unspoiled reefs at depths averaging 80 feet (24m), with an amazing array of sea life.  Uninhabited islands, such as Icacos, off the northeastern coast near Fajardo, are also popular with snorkelers and divers alike. 

These sites are now within reach, because many of Puerto Rico's dive operators and resorts offer packages that include daily or twice-daily dives, scuba equipment, instruction, and excursions to Puerto Rico's popular attractions. 

Introductory courses for beginners start at $125, and two-tank dives for experienced divers begin at around $85, but most cost at least $125. 

In San Juan, try Caribe Aquatic Adventures, Calle 19 1062, Villa Nevarez (  787/281-8858), or Ocean Sports (Av.  Isla Verde 77;   787/268-2329). 

Diving off the east, southwest, or northwest coasts is more rewarding, however. 

In Rincón, there's Taíno Divers, Black Eagle Marina at Rincón (  787/823-6429), which offers trips to the waters surrounding Desecheo Island natural reserve. 

The ocean wall in the southwest is famous, with visibility ranging from 100 to 120 feet (30–37m) and reefs filled with abundant sea life.  Paradise Scuba Center, Hotel Casa Blanca Building, at La Parguera (  787/899-7611), and Mona Aquatics, Calle José de Diego, Boquerón (  787/851-2185), are two good operators in the area. 

In Guánica, Island Scuba (  787/309-6556) provides direct service to the Copamarina Beach Resort and also attends customers at its local site in Playa Santa.  It's actually the closest operator to many of the area's famed dive sites. 

The Dive Center at the Wyndham Rio Mar Beach Resort (  787/888-6000) is one of the largest in Puerto Rico. 

(See "Diving, Fishing, Tennis & Other Outdoor Pursuits," in chapter 5, for more details.) 

Elsewhere on the island, several other companies offer scuba and snorkeling instruction.  We provide details in each chapter. 

Snorkeling Because of its overpopulation, the waters around San Juan aren't the most ideal for snorkeling.  In fact, the entire north shore of Puerto Rico fronts the Atlantic, where the waters are often turbulent. 

Yet there are some protected areas along the north coast that make for fine snorkeling, even in surf capitals such as Rincón and Aguadilla.  Many of the best surfing beaches in winter turn into a snorkeler's paradise in summer when the waves calm down. 

The most ideal conditions for snorkeling in Puerto Rico are along the shores of the remote islands of Vieques and Culebra (see chapter 11). 

The best snorkeling on the main island is found near the town of Fajardo, to the east of San Juan and along the tranquil eastern coast (see chapter 9). 

The calm, glasslike quality of the clear Caribbean along the south shore is also ideal for snorkeling.  The most developed tourist mecca here is the city of Ponce.  Few rivers empty their muddy waters into the sea along the south coast, resulting in gin-clear waters offshore.  You can snorkel off the coast without having to go on a boat trip.  One good place is at Playa La Parguera, where you can rent snorkeling equipment from kiosks along the beach.  This beach lies east of the town of Guánica, to the east of Ponce.  Here tropical fish add to the brightness of the water, which is generally turquoise.  The addition of mangrove cays in the area also makes La Parguera more alluring for snorkelers.  Another good spot for snorkelers is Caja de Muertos off the coast of Ponce.  Here a lagoon coral reef boasts a large number of fish species. 

Even if you are staying in San Juan and want to go snorkeling, you are better off taking a day trip to Fajardo, where you'll get a real Caribbean snorkeling experience, with tranquil, clear water and stunning reefs teaming with tropical fish.  Several operators offer day trips (10am–3:30pm) leaving from Fajardo marinas, but transportation to and from your San Juan hotel can also be arranged.  Prices start at around $99 (see "Boating & Sailing," earlier in this chapter). 

Surfing

Puerto Rico's northwest beaches attract surfers from around the world.  Called the "Hawaii of the East," Puerto Rico has hosted a number of international competitions.  October through February are the best surfing months, but the sport is enjoyed in Puerto Rico from August through April.  The most popular areas are from Isabela to Rincón—at beaches such as Wilderness, Middles, Jobos, Crashboat, Las Marías, and the Spanish Wall. 

There are surf spots across the entire north coast from San Juan to the northwest, including Los Tubos in Vega Baja. 

San Juan itself has great surfing spots, including La 8, just outside of Old San Juan in Puerta de Tierra, near Escambrón Beach, which has some of the largest waves.  Pine Grove in Isla Verde is a great spot to learn, because of the small, steady, well-formed waves there. 

International competitions held in Puerto Rico have included the 1968 and 1988 World Amateur Surfing Championships and the annual Caribbean Cup Surfing Championship.  Currently, Corona sponsors an annual competition circuit taking place in Isabela and Rincón. 

If you want to learn to surf, or perfect your technique while in Puerto Rico, it's quite easy. 

Operating right near the Ritz-Carlton and Courtyard Marriott hotels in Isla Verde, the best surf lessons are given by professional surfer William Sue-A-Quan at his Walking on Water Surfing School (www.gosurfpr.com;   787/955-6059).  He and a few associates work right on the beach at Pine Grove and also offer lessons through the Ritz-Carlton.  He's a great teacher, and takes on students as young as 5 and as old as 75. 

Rincón also has many surf schools, some of which book packages including lodgings.  You can't do better than Ramses Morales at Surf Lessons and Adventure Co. (www.surflessonspuertorico.com;   787/617-4731), a local pro who is a naturally gifted teacher, for beginners or more advanced surfers.  The Rincón Surf School (P.O. Box 1333, Rincón;   787/823-0610) offers beginner lessons and weeklong packages.  Puntas Surf School (P.O. Box 4319, HC-01 Calle Vista del Mar;   787/823-3618 or 207/251-1154) is another good option, run by Melissa Taylor and Bill Woodward.  Group lessons (for four) start at $35 per hour; private $45. 

Board rentals are available at many island surf shops, with prices starting at $25 a day.  We list them in subsequent chapters. 

Windsurfing

The best windsurfing is found at Punta Las Marias in the Greater San Juan metropolitan area.  Other spots on the island for windsurfing include Santa Isabel, Guánica, and La Parguera in the south; Jobos and Shacks in the northwest; and the island of Culebra off the eastern coast. 

Kite-boarding is becoming increasingly popular as well.  Watch them fly through the choppy waters off Ocean Park in San Juan. 

Lessons, advice, and equipment rental is available at Velauno, Calle Loíza 2430, Punta Las Marias in San Juan (  787/728-8716). 

Food & Wine Trips

Puerto Rico has matured substantially as a culinary destination in recent years, and the tourism industry promotional material about the gastronomic flowering here is no idle boast.  There are numerous opportunities for unpretentious, delicious street food and local cooking, as well as gourmet versions of comida criolla classics.  San Juan, and, increasingly, the rest of the island, really shows its chops as a culinary crossroads.  There is great Lebanese, Italian, French, Mexican, Asian, and Spanish cooking, and fresh seafood restaurants as well.  And local culinary stars pack real flavor behind the sizzle at their trendy restaurants, which are usually a fusion play off of Puerto Rican or greater Latino cuisine.  There is no organized culinary trip per se, but you could choose to visit during one of the annual food festivals such as Old San Juan SoFo Culinary Fest (in June; www.tastecuisine.net), when restaurants on and near South Fortaleza Street open up their doors for sampling; or Saborea (in early Apr; www.saboreapuertorico.com), a culinary party of restaurant booths and Food Network chef demos set up along Escambrón Beach. 

Also for our listing of the Flavors of San Juan noshing tour in Old San Juan (www.flavorsofsanjuan.com;   787/964-2447). 

Gourmands will find more than enough to satiate their cravings in the preceding pages: from Old City restaurants to mountain country barbecue to beach shacks.  Local chefs also occasional give cooking demonstrations in San Juan. 

Guided Tours

An escorted tour is a structured group tour with a group leader.  The price usually includes everything from airfare to hotel, meals, tours, admission costs, and local transportation. 

Puerto Rico Tours, Condo Inter-Suite, Ste.  5M, on Isla Verde in San Juan (www.puertorico-tours.com;   787/306-1540 or 791-5479), offers specially conducted private sightseeing tours of Puerto Rico, including trips to the rainforest, Luquillo Beach, the caves of Camuy, and other attractions, such as a restored Taíno Indian village. 

Backstage Partners (www.backstagepartners.com;   787/791-0099) offers customized tours that take in a wide range of island attractions, including eco-tours, deep-sea fishing, scuba diving and snorkeling, safaris, and golf packages. 

Other leading escorted tour operators include Atlantic San Juan Tours (www.puertoricoexcursions.com;   787/644-9841), which helps you take in all the major sights of the island from Ponce to El Yunque; and Sunshine Tours (www.puerto-rico-sunshinetours.com;   866/785-3636), which covers much the same ground as the others.  Legends of Puerto Rico (www.legendsofpr.com;   787/605-9060) hosts personalized tours, specializing in entertaining cultural and nature adventure tours. 

Volunteer & Working Trips

Rico Suntours (  787/722-2080) and Travel Services, Inc. (  787/982-1200) organize volunteer and philanthropic tours and other activities for groups and individuals.  Options include participating in a community project in the coastal town of Piñones and then taking a kayak or bicycle tour run by community-based outfits.  Other tours include working with a facility that provides food and services to San Juan's homeless populations and local organizations helping stray cats and dogs.  You can adopt a dog through the Save A Sato Foundation (www.saveasato.org).  Animal lovers should realize that Puerto Rican satos (mutts) are the loyalist, friendliest dogs known to man.  If you are visiting in spring and want to help guard nesting sites of rare leatherback and other sea turtles, contact the local Sierra Club chapter (www.puertorico.sierraclub.org) or Culebra-based Coralations (www.coralations.org). 

Walking Tours

Legends of Puerto Rico (www.legendsofpr.com;   787/605-9060) offers day and evening walking tours of Old San Juan. 

  Puerto Rico

Area Codes Puerto Rico has two area codes: the more common 787 and the newer 939.  The codes are not geographically-specific.  For all calls on the island, the area code must be used. 

Business Hours Offices are generally open 9am to 5pm Monday through Friday, but most institutions are open Saturday for at least a half day.  Stores are generally open from 9am to 6pm or 1am to 7pm Monday through Saturday, Sunday 11am through 6pm.  Most malls and big box retailers are open 9am to 9pm Monday to Saturday, 11am to 7pm on Sundays.  Normal banking hours are 8am to 5pm Monday through Friday and 8:30am to noon on Saturday.  Most banks have some branches with extended hours, open all day Saturday and on Sundays from 11 to 4pm, as well as extended evening hours to 6pm. 

Car Rental See "Getting There by Car," earlier in this chapter. 

Cellphones See "Mobile Phones," later in this section. 

Crime See "Safety," later in this section. 

Customs U.S. citizens do not need to clear Puerto Rican Customs upon arrival by plane or ship from the U.S. mainland.  Every visitor 21 years of age or older may bring in, free of duty, the following: (1) 1 U.S. quart of alcohol; (2) 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars (but not from Cuba), or 3 pounds of smoking tobacco; and (3) $100 worth of gifts.  These exemptions are offered to travelers who spend at least 72 hours in the United States and who have not claimed them within the preceding 6 months.  It is forbidden to bring into the country almost any meat products (including canned, fresh, and dried meat products such as bouillon, soup mixes, and so on).  Generally, condiments including vinegars, oils, pickled goods, spices, coffee, tea, and some cheeses and baked goods are permitted.  Avoid rice products, as rice can often harbor insects.  Bringing fruits and vegetables is prohibited, as they may harbor pests or disease.  International visitors may carry in or out up to $10,000 in U.S. or foreign currency with no formalities; larger sums must be declared to U.S. Customs on entering or leaving, which includes filing form CM 4790.  On departure, U.S.-bound travelers must have their luggage inspected by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, because laws prohibit bringing fruits and plants to the U.S. mainland.  Fruits and vegetables are not allowed, but otherwise, you can bring back as many purchased goods as you want without paying duty. 

For details regarding U.S. Customs and Border Protection, consult your nearest U.S. embassy or consulate, or U.S. Customs (www.customs.gov). 

For more information on what you can bring home:

U.S. Citizens: U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), 1300 Pennsylvania Ave.,  NW, Washington, DC 20229 (www.cbp.gov;   877/287-8667). 

Canadian Citizens: Canada Border Services Agency, Ottawa, Ontario, K1A 0L8 (www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca;   800/461-9999 in Canada, or 204/983-3500). 

U.K. Citizens: HM Customs & Excise, Crownhill Court, Tailyour Road, Plymouth, PL6 5BZ (www.hmce.gov.uk;   0845/010-9000; from outside the U.K., 020/8929-0152).  For information on importation of plants or animals, see the Department for Food, Environment, and Rural Affairs (DEFRA) website (www.defra.gov.uk/foodfarm/food/personal-import/topics/faq.htm). 

Australian Citizens: Australian Customs Service, Customs House, 5 Constitution Ave.,  Canberra City, ACT 2601 (www.customs.gov.au;   1300/363-263; from outside Australia, 612/6275-6666). 

New Zealand Citizens: New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17–21 Whitmore St., P.O. Box 2218, Wellington, 6140 (www.customs.govt.nz;   04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786). 

Disabled Travelers Most disabilities shouldn't stop anyone from traveling.  There are more options and resources out there today than ever before. 

The Americans with Disabilities Act is enforced as strictly in Puerto Rico as it is on the U.S. mainland—in fact, a telling example of the act's enforcement can be found in Ponce, where the sightseeing trolleys are equipped with ramps and extra balustrades to accommodate travelers with disabilities.  Unfortunately, hotels rarely give much publicity to the facilities they offer persons with disabilities, so it's always wise to contact the hotel directly, in advance, if you need special facilities.  Tourist offices usually have little data about such matters. 

You can obtain a free copy of Air Transportation of Handicapped Persons, published by the U.S. Department of Transportation.  Write for Free Advisory Circular No.  AC12032, Distribution Unit, U.S. Department of Transportation, Publications Division, 3341Q 75 Ave.,  Landover, MD 20785.  No phone requests are accepted, but you can write for a copy of the publication or download it for free at <http://isddc.dot.gov>. 

The U.S. National Park Service offers a Golden Access Passport that gives free lifetime entrance to U.S. national parks, including those in Puerto Rico, for persons who are blind or have permanent disabilities, regardless of age.  You can pick up a Golden Access Passport at any NPS entrance-fee area by showing proof of medically determined disability and eligibility for receiving benefits under federal law.  Besides free entry, the Golden Access Passport also offers a 50% discount on federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours.  For more information, go to www.nps.gov/fees_passes.htm, or call   888/467-2757. 

Many travel agencies offer customized tours and itineraries for travelers with disabilities.  Flying Wheels Travel (www.flyingwheelstravel.com;   507/451-5005) offers escorted tours and cruises that emphasize sports and private tours in minivans with lifts.  Access-Able Travel Source (www.access-able.com;   303/232-2979) offers extensive access information and advice for traveling around the world with disabilities.  Accessible Journeys (www.disabilitytravel.com;   800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339) caters specifically to slow walkers and wheelchair travelers and their families and friends. 

Organizations that offer assistance to travelers with disabilities include Moss Rehab (www.mossresourcenet.org;   800/CALL-MOSS 800/225-5667]), which provides a library of accessible-travel resources online; the American Foundation for the Blind (AFB; [www.afb.org;   800/232-5463 or 212/502-7600), a referral resource for the blind or visually impaired that includes information on traveling with Seeing Eye dogs; and SATH (Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality; www.sath.org;   212/447-7284; annual membership fees: $45 adults, $30 seniors and students), which offers a wealth of travel resources for all types of disabilities and informed recommendations on destinations, access guides, travel agents, tour operators, vehicle rentals, and companion services.  AirAmbulanceCard.com is now partnered with SATH and allows you to preselect top-notch hospitals, in case of an emergency, for $195 a year ($295 per family), among other benefits. 

For more information specifically targeted to travelers with disabilities, the community website iCan (www.icanonline.net) has destination guides and several regular columns on accessible travel.  Also check out the quarterly magazine Emerging Horizons (www.emerginghorizons.com; $15 per year, $20 outside the U.S.); and Open World magazine, published by SATH (see above; subscription: $13 per year, $21 outside the U.S.). 

A tip for British travelers: The Royal Association for Disability and Rehabilitation (RADAR), Unit 12, City Forum, 250 City Rd.,  London, EC1V 8AF (www.radar.org.uk;   020/7250-3222; fax 020/7250-0212), publishes information for travelers with disabilities. 

Doctorsl Hotels will be able to recommend a good doctor, which are listed under "medicos" in the telephone directory.  There are also several hospitals and other healthcare facilities in San Juan that have medical staff on site around the clock.  Also see "Hospitals," later in this section. 

Drinking Laws The legal age for purchase and consumption of alcoholic beverages is 18; proof of age is required and often requested at bars, nightclubs, and restaurants, so it's always a good idea to bring ID when you go out.  Do not carry open containers of alcohol in your car or any public area that isn't zoned for alcohol consumption.  The police can fine you on the spot.  Don't even think about driving while intoxicated. 

Driving Rules See "Getting Around," earlier in this chapter. 

Drugstores It's a good idea to carry enough prescription medications with you to last the duration of your stay.  If you're going into the hinterlands, take along the medicines you'll need.  If you need any additional medications, you'll find many drugstores in San Juan and other leading cities.  One of the most centrally located pharmacies is Walgreens, 1130 Ashford Ave.,  Condado (  787/725-1510), open 24 hours.  There is at least one 24-hour Walgreens in every tourist district (Condado, Old San Juan, and Isla Verde), and they are linked with the U.S. chain for prescriptions.  There are also locations throughout the island in major cities and shopping malls.  Another option is the Puerto Rico Drug Co., Calle San Francisco 157 (  787/725-2202), in Old San Juan, which is open daily from 7:30am to 9:30pm.  A well-stocked CVS/pharmacy, Paseo Gilberto Concepcion de Gracia 105 (  787/725-2500) is located near the cruise ship docks in Old San Juan and is open 7am to midnight daily. 

Electricity Like Canada, the United States uses 110–120 volts AC (60 cycles), compared to 220–240 volts AC (50 cycles) in most of Europe, Australia, and New Zealand.  Downward converters that change 220–240 volts to 110–120 volts are difficult to find in the United States, so bring one with you. 

Embassies &Consulates All embassies are in the nation's capital, Washington, D.C. Some consulates are in major U.S. cities, and most nations have a mission to the United Nations in New York City.  If your country isn't listed below, call for directory information in Washington, D.C. (  202/555-1212), or check www.embassy.org/embassies. 

The embassy of Australia is at 1601 Massachusetts Ave.  NW, Washington, DC 20036 (www.usa.embassy.gov.au;   202/797-3000).  Consulates are in New York, Honolulu, Houston, Los Angeles, and San Francisco. 

The embassy of Canada is at 501 Pennsylvania Ave.  NW, Washington, DC 20001 (www.canadainternational.gc.ca/washington;   202/682-1740).  Other Canadian consulates are in Buffalo (New York), Detroit, Los Angeles, New York City, and Seattle. 

The embassy of Ireland is at 2234 Massachusetts Ave.  NW, Washington, DC 20008 (www.embassyofireland.org;   202/462-3939).  Irish consulates are in Boston, Chicago, New York City, San Francisco, and other cities.  See website for complete listing. 

The embassy of New Zealand is at 37 Observatory Circle NW, Washington, DC 20008 (www.nzembassy.com;   202/328-4800).  New Zealand consulates are in Los Angeles, Salt Lake City, San Francisco, and Seattle. 

The embassy of the United Kingdom is at 3100 Massachusetts Ave.  NW, Washington, DC 20008 (http://ukinusa.fco.gov.uk;   202/588-6500).  Other British consulates are in Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Cleveland, Houston, Los Angeles, New York City, San Francisco, and Seattle. 

Emergencies In an emergency, dial   911.  Or call the local police (  787/726-7020), fire department (  787/725-3444), or medical emergency line (  787/754-2550). 

Family Travel Puerto Rico is an extremely family-friendly travel destination.  Nearly all resorts court parents traveling with children as guests.  In only a few cases did my own family find that not true of restaurants and lodgings, and I've pointed those out.  To locate accommodations, restaurants, and attractions that are particularly kid-friendly, look for the "Kids" icon throughout this guide. 

Gasoline Please see "Getting Around By Car," earlier in this chapter. 

Health Puerto Rico poses no major health problem for most travelers.  If you have a chronic condition, however, you should check with your doctor before visiting the islands.  For conditions such as epilepsy, diabetes, or heart problems, wear a MedicAlert Identification Tag (www.medicalert.org;   800/825-3785), which will immediately alert doctors to your condition and give them access to your records through MedicAlert's 24-hour hot line. 

Finding a good doctor in Puerto Rico is easy, and most speak English.  See "Hospitals" for the locations of hospitals. 

If you worry about getting sick away from home, consider purchasing medical travel insurance and carry your ID card in your purse or wallet.  In most cases, your existing health plan will provide the coverage you need.  See "Insurance" for more information. 

Pack prescription medications in your carry-on luggage, and carry prescription medications in their original containers.  Also bring along copies of your prescriptions, in case you lose your medication or run out.  Carry the generic name of prescription medicines, in case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar with the brand name. 

And don't forget sunglasses and an extra pair of contact lenses or prescription glasses. 

Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT; www.iamat.org;   716/754-4883 or, in Canada, 416/652-0137) for tips on travel and health concerns in the countries you're visiting, and for lists of local, English-speaking doctors.  The United States Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (  800/311-3435; www.cdc.gov) provides up-to-date information on health hazards by region or country and offers tips on food safety.  The website www.tripprep.com, sponsored by a consortium of travel medicine practitioners, may also offer helpful advice on traveling abroad.  You can find listings of reliable clinics overseas at the International Society of Travel Medicine (www.istm.org). 

It's best to stick to bottled water here.  Although tap water is said to be safe to drink, many visitors experience diarrhea, even if they follow the usual precautions.  The illness usually passes quickly without medication, if you eat simply prepared food and drink only bottled water until you recover.  If symptoms persist, consult a doctor. 

The sun can be brutal, especially if you haven't been exposed to it in some time.  Experts advise that you limit your time on the beach the first day.  If you do overexpose yourself, stay out of the sun until you recover.  If your exposure is followed by fever or chills, a headache, or a feeling of nausea or dizziness, see a doctor. 

Sandflies (or "no-see-ums") can still be a problem in Puerto Rico but are not the menace they are in other Caribbean destinations.  They appear mainly in the early evening, and even if you can't see these tiny bugs, you sure can "feel-um."  Your favorite insect repellent will protect you from them, should they become a problem. 

Although mosquitoes are a nuisance, they do not carry malaria in Puerto Rico.  However, after a long absence, the dreaded dengue fever has returned to Puerto Rico.  The disease is transmitted by the Aede mosquito, and its symptoms include fever, headaches, pain in the muscles and joints, skin blisters, and hemorrhaging.  It usually is gone after a week but the strongest cases are fatal. 

Hookworm and other intestinal parasites are relatively common in the Caribbean, though you are less likely to be affected in Puerto Rico than on other islands.  Hookworm can be contracted by just walking barefoot on an infected beach.  Schistosomiasis (also called bilharzia), caused by a parasitic fluke, can be contracted by submerging your feet in rivers and lakes infested with a certain species of snail. 

Like major urban areas along the East Coast, Puerto Rico has been hard hit by AIDS and other sexually transmitted diseases.  Exercise at least the same caution in choosing your sexual partners and practicing safe sex as you would at home. 

Hospitals In a medical emergency, call   911.  Ashford Presbyterian Community Hospital, Av.  Ashford 1451, San Juan (  787/721-2160), maintains 24-hour emergency service and is the most convenient to the major tourism districts.  Another option is Pavia Hospital, 1462 C. Asia, Santurce (  787/727-6060).  Service is also provided at Clinica Las Americas, Franklin Delano Roosevelt Ave.  400, Hato Rey (  787/765-1919), and at Puerto Rico Medical Center, Av.  Americo Miranda, Río Piedras (  787/777-3535). 

Insurance Most health insurance policies cover you if you get sick away from home, but they are not likely to provide for medical evacuation in case of life-threatening injury or illness.  It's a good idea to buy a travel insurance policy that provides for emergency medical evacuation.  If you have to buy a one-way same-day ticket home and forfeit your nonrefundable round-trip ticket, you might be out big bucks.  And the cost of a flying ambulance could wipe out your life's savings. 

Check with your insurer, particularly if you're insured by an HMO, about the extent of its coverage while you're overseas.  With the exception of certain HMOs and Medicare/Medicaid, your medical insurance should cover medical treatment—even hospital care—overseas.  However, most out-of-country hospitals make you pay your bills up front, and they send you a refund after you've returned home and filed the necessary paperwork. 

If you require additional insurance, try one of the following companies:

• MEDEX International (www.medexassist.com;   888/MEDEX-00 [633-3900] or 410/453-6300; fax 410/453-6301). 

• Travel Assistance International (www.travelassistance.com;   800/821-2828); for general information on services, call the company's Worldwide Assistance Services, Inc. at   800/777-8710. 

• The Divers Alert Network (DAN; www.diversalertnetwork.org;   800/446-2671 or 919/684-2948). 

On domestic flights, checked baggage is covered up to $3,300 per ticketed passenger.  On international flights (including U.S. portions of international trips), baggage coverage is limited to approximately $9.07 per pound, up to approximately $635 per checked bag.  If you plan to check items more valuable than what's covered by the standard liability, see if your homeowner's policy covers your valuables, or get baggage insurance as part of your comprehensive travel-insurance package.  Don't buy insurance at the airport, where it's usually overpriced.  Be sure to take any valuables or irreplaceable items with you in your carry-on luggage, because many valuables (including books, money, and electronics) aren't covered by airline policies. 

If your luggage is lost, immediately file a lost-luggage claim at the airport, detailing the luggage contents.  Most airlines require that you report delayed, damaged, or lost baggage within 4 hours of arrival.  The airlines are required to deliver luggage, once found, directly to your house or destination free of charge. 

For information on traveler's insurance, trip cancellation insurance, and medical insurance while traveling, please visit www.frommers.com/planning. 

Internet & Wi-Fi Free Wi-Fi connections are widely available, from Old San Juan's Plaza de Armas to Starbucks to local Burger King and McDonald's outlets throughout the island.  Many hotels and guesthouses also have public computers for use by guests, and there are Internet cafes throughout the city (such as the Cybernet Café, Av.  Ashford 1128, Condado; www.cybernetcafepr.com).  Many public plazas have Wi-Fi service, and public libraries also have Internet areas.  Free Wi-Fi spots abound at shopping centers, hotels, and restaurants. 

Language English is understood at the big resorts and in most of San Juan.  Out in the island, Spanish is still numero uno. 

Legal Aid While driving, if you are pulled over for a minor infraction (such as speeding), never attempt to pay the fine directly to a police officer; this could be construed as attempted bribery, a much more serious crime.  Pay fines by mail, or directly into the hands of the clerk of the court.  If accused of a more serious offense, say and do nothing before consulting a lawyer.  In the U.S., the burden is on the state to prove a person's guilt beyond a reasonable doubt, and everyone has the right to remain silent, whether he or she is suspected of a crime or actually arrested.  Once arrested, a person can make one telephone call to a party of his or her choice.  The international visitor should call his or her embassy or consulate. 

LGBT Travelers Puerto Rico is the most gay-friendly destination in the Caribbean, with lots of accommodations, restaurants, clubs, and bars that actively cater to a gay clientele. 

A good source is www.orgulloboricua.net, which is a Web portal for the island's gay and lesbian community; it has an introduction for visitors in English.  In Spanish is the radio show/Web blog www.saliendodelcloset.org, which involves leading figures in the gay community and has links to several points of interest. 

The International Gay & Lesbian Travel Association (IGLTA; www.iglta.org;   800/448-8550 or 954/776-2626) links travelers up with gay-friendly hoteliers, tour operators, and airline and cruise-line representatives.  It offers monthly newsletters, marketing mailings, and a membership directory that's updated once a year.  Membership is $225 yearly, plus a $100 administration fee for new members. 

Above and Beyond Tours (www.abovebeyondtours.com;   800/397-2681) offers gay and lesbian tours worldwide and is the exclusive gay and lesbian tour operator for United Airlines. 

Now, Voyager (www.nowvoyager.com;   800/255-6951) is a San Francisco–based gay-owned and -operated travel service. 

Olivia Cruises & Resorts (www.olivia.com;   800/631-6277) charters entire resorts and ships for exclusive lesbian vacations and offers smaller group experiences for both gay and lesbian travelers. ( In 2005, tennis great Martina Navratilova was named Olivia's official spokesperson.) 

Gay.com Travel (www.gay.com/travel or www.outandabout.com;   800/929-2268 or 415/644-8044) is an excellent online successor to the popular Out & About print magazine. 

The following travel guides are available at many bookstores, or you can order them from any online bookseller: Spartacus International Gay Guide (Bruno Gmünder Verlag; www.spartacusworld.com/gayguide) and Odysseus: The International Gay Travel Planner (Odysseus Enterprises Ltd.), both good, annual, English-language guidebooks focused on gay men; and the Damron guides (www.damron.com), with separate, annual books for gay men and lesbians. 

Mail At press time, domestic postage rates are 45¢ for a letter.  For international mail, a first-class letter of up to 1 ounce starts at 85¢ (the rate for both Canada and Mexico); a first-class postcard costs the same as a letter.  For more information, go to www.usps.com. 

If you aren't sure what your address will be in the United States, mail can be sent to you, in your name, c/o General Delivery at the main post office of the city or region where you expect to be. ( Call   800/275-8777 for information on the nearest post office.)  The addressee must pick up mail in person and must produce proof of identity (driver's license, passport, etc.).  Most post offices will hold mail for up to 1 month, and are open Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm, and Saturday from 9am to 3pm. 

Medical Requirements Unless you're arriving from an area known to be suffering from an epidemic (particularly cholera or yellow fever), inoculations or vaccinations are not required for entry into the United States. 

Mobile Phones Major carriers with a presence in the U.S., market, such as AT&T, Sprint, and T-Mobile, also battle it out in the island's competitive wireless market.  Prices are low, and coverage is very good, even out at sea.  Each carrier maintains a network and all are investing in network upgrades, with AT&T out front in the race for a 4-G network, and all are GSM networks. 

Check with your carrier to see if Puerto Rico is included in national calling plans, which usually offer unlimited calling and roaming.  Most do.  Puerto Rico subscribers of all major carriers have the option of enrolling in a national calling plan that includes calls and free roaming to the United States mainland. 

Calls can also be placed through Skype and other VoIP services via the Internet. 

Cellular telephones can be purchased at RadioShack, Walgreens, and other stores listed throughout the guide.  They come loaded with minutes and can be used on the spot and cost as little as $35.  Refill cards are sold everywhere, from major grocery stores to gas stations.  Internet access, such as wide-spread, high-powered Wi-Fi service, is so great that Web-based options like Skype can be used to stay in touch, especially if your smart phone has that Wi-Fi option. 

Money & Costs

Frommer's lists exact prices in the local currency.  The currency conversions quoted above were correct at press time.  However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/currency/converter to check up-to-the-minute rates. 

ATMs The U.S. banking presence has markedly diminished on the island in recent years, but island banks, led by Banco Popular, are hooked into the U.S. banking system, use the same ATM networks, and have the same fee structures.  Many have a presence on the U.S. mainland.  Spanish and Canadian banks also have a presence. 

ATMs are linked to a network that most likely includes your bank at home.  Cirrus (www.mastercard.com;   800/424-7787) and PLUS (www.visa.com;   800/843-7587) are the two most popular networks in the U.S.; call or check online for ATM locations at your destination. 

Credit Cards Credit cards are invaluable when you're traveling.  They are a safe way to carry money and provide a convenient record of all your expenses.  You can also withdraw cash advances from your credit cards at any bank (though you'll start paying hefty interest on the advance the moment you receive the cash).  At most banks, you don't even need to go to a teller; you can get a cash advance at the ATM if you know your PIN.  If you've forgotten yours, or didn't even know you had one, call the number on the back of your credit card and ask the card issuer to send it to you.  It usually takes 5 to 7 business days, though some banks will provide the number over the phone if you tell them your mother's maiden name or pass some other security clearance test. 

In San Juan and at all the big resorts on the island, even some of the smaller inns, credit cards are commonly accepted.  Moreover, an incredible array of establishments accept payment with ATM cards.  However, as you tour through rural areas and if you intend to patronize small, out-of-the-way establishments, it's still wise to carry sufficient greenbacks for emergencies.  Visa and MasterCard are accepted most widely throughout Puerto Rico. 

Beware of hidden credit-card fees while traveling.  Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions.  Recent reform legislation in the U.S., for example, has curbed some exploitative lending practices.  But many banks have responded by increasing fees in other areas, including fees for customers who use credit and debit cards while out of the country—even if those charges were made in U.S. dollars.  Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price.  Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement. 

Currency The U.S. dollar is the coin of the realm.  Keep in mind that once you leave Ponce or San Juan, you might have difficulty finding a place to exchange foreign money (unless you're staying at a large resort), so it's wise to handle your exchange needs before you head off into rural parts of Puerto Rico. 

Currency Exchange There is a currency exchange at Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport and at large bank branches such as Banco Popular. 

Traveler's Checks Traveler's checks are something of an anachronism from the days before the ATM made cash accessible at any time.  Even given the fees you'll pay for ATM use at banks other than your own, it is still probably a better bet than traveler's checks. 

You can get traveler's checks at almost any bank.  American Express offers denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and (for cardholders only) $1,000.  You'll pay a service charge ranging from 1% to 4%.  You can also get American Express traveler's checks over the phone by calling   800/221-7282; Amex gold and platinum cardholders who use this number are exempt from the 1% fee. 

Visa offers traveler's checks at Citibank locations nationwide, as well as at several other banks.  The service charge ranges between 1% and 2%; checks come in denominations of $20, $50, $100, $500, and $1,000.  Call   800/732-1322 for information.  AAA members can obtain Visa checks for a $9.95 fee (for checks, minimum of $300 up to $1,500) at most AAA offices or by calling   866/339-3378. 

MasterCard also offers traveler's checks.  Call   800/223-9920 for a location near you. 

Newspapers & Magazines Caribbean Business (www.caribbeanbusinesspr.com) is a weekly business newspaper that has the most up-to-date news on Puerto Rico in English.  There is a weekly print edition but its website, with a mobile telephone version, is a constantly updated general news site.  USA Today sells a local edition of its newspaper, with two pages of local and tourism news.  If you read Spanish, you might enjoy El Nuevo Día, the most popular local tabloid.  There is also El Vocero and Primera Hora.  Few significant magazines are published on Puerto Rico, but Time and Newsweek are available at most newsstands. 

Packing Puerto Ricans love to dress up and some restaurants and clubs have dress codes, so you should bring at least one outfit that can meet formal dress codes.  Also, while the weather is warm year-round, it is advisable to bring a light jacket of sweater for air-conditioned restaurants and theaters.  For more helpful information on packing for your trip, download our convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device.  Go to www.frommers.com/go/mobile and click on the Travel Tools icon. 

Passports Because Puerto Rico is a commonwealth, U.S. citizens coming from mainland destinations do not need passports to enter Puerto Rico. 

That said, it still is best to carry plenty of documentation.  Be sure that your ID is up to date: An expired driver's license or passport, for example, might keep you from boarding a plane. 

Visitors from other countries, including Canada, need a valid passport to land in Puerto Rico.  For those from countries requiring a visa to enter the U.S., the same visa is necessary to enter Puerto Rico. 

Virtually every air traveler entering the U.S. is required to show a passport.  All persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling by air between the United States and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda are required to present a valid passport.  Note: U.S. and Canadian citizens entering the U.S. at land and sea ports of entry from within the western hemisphere must now also present a passport or other documents compliant with the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative (WHTI; see www.getyouhome.gov for details).  Children 15 and under may continue entering with only a U.S. birth certificate, or other proof of U.S. citizenship. 

It is advised to always have at least one or two consecutive blank pages in your passport to allow space for visas and stamps that need to appear together.  It is also important to note when your passport expires.  Many countries require your passport to have at least 6 months left before its expiration in order to allow you into the destination. 

• Australia Australian Passport Information Service (www.passports.gov.au;   131-232). 

• Canada Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 (www.ppt.gc.ca;   800/567-6868). 

• Ireland Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie;   01/671-1633). 

• New Zealand Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott Street, Wellington, 6011 (www.passports.govt.nz;   0800/225-050 in New Zealand, or 04/474-8100). 

• United Kingdom Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Square, London, SW1V 1PN (www.ips.gov.uk;   0300/222-0000). 

• United States To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center (  877/487-2778) for automated information. 

Petrol Please see "Getting Around by Car," earlier in this chapter. 

Police In an emergency, dial   911.  Or call the local police (  787/343-2020), fire department (  787/725-3444), or medical emergency line (  787/273-1862 [San Juan]), or toll-free 800/981-5645. 

Safety The U.S. Department of State issues no special travel advisories for the Commonwealth of Puerto Rico, the way it might for, say, the more troubled island of Jamaica.  However, there are crime problems in Puerto Rico, and violent crime fueled by drug trafficking has been on the rise.  Still, crime rarely surfaces along San Juan's Condado and Isla Verde beaches and Old San Juan.  Caution is required at night, as muggings do happen, and isolated areas should be avoided. 

Burglary, including vandalizing of automobiles, is another problem, so don't leave valuables in cars, even when the doors are locked. 

Take precautions about leaving valuables on the beach, and exercise extreme care if you're searching for a remote beach where there's no one in sight.  The only person lurking nearby might be someone not interested in surf and sand but a robber waiting to make off with your possessions. 

Avoid wandering around the darkened alleys and small streets of San Juan's Old City at night, especially those off the oceanside Norzagaray Boulevard, which is relatively deserted at night. 

If you are traveling out on the island, plan to do your driving during the daylight hours, both for road-safety and crime-precaution reasons.  A wrong turn at midnight could lead to a whole lot of trouble of all stripes. 

In short, crime exists here as it does everywhere.  Use common sense and take precautions.  Theft and occasional muggings do occur on the Condado and Isla Verde beaches at night, so you might want to confine your moonlit beach nights to the fenced-in and guarded areas around some of the major hotels.  The countryside of Puerto Rico is safer than San Juan, but caution is always in order.  Avoid narrow country roads and isolated beaches at night and exercise caution on them during the day. 

Senior Travel Mention the fact that you're a senior when you first make your travel reservations.  All major airlines and many Puerto Rican hotels offer discounts for seniors. 

Though much of the island's sporting and nightlife activity is geared toward youthful travelers, Puerto Rico also has much to offer the senior.  The best source of information for seniors is the Puerto Rico Tourism Company (see "Year-Round Festivals," earlier), or, if you're staying in a large resort hotel, talk to the activities director or the concierge. 

Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 (  888/687-2277 or 202/434-2277; www.aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals.  AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, including AARP The Magazine and a monthly newsletter.  Anyone 50 or older can join. 

The U.S. National Park Service offers a Golden Age Passport that gives seniors 62 years or older lifetime entrance to U.S. national parks for a one-time processing fee of $10.  The pass must be purchased in person at any NPS facility that charges an entrance fee.  Besides free entry, a Golden Age Passport also offers a 50% discount on federal-use fees charged for such facilities as camping, swimming, parking, boat launching, and tours.  For more information, click onto www.nps.gov, or call   888/467-2757. 

Grand Circle Travel (www.gct.com;   800/221-2610 or 617/350-7500; fax 617/346-6700) offers package deals for the 50-plus market, mostly of the tour-bus variety, with free trips thrown in for those who organize groups of 10 or more. 

SAGA Holidays (<http://travel.saga.co.uk/holidays.aspx>;   800/343-0273) offers tours and cruises for those 50 and older.  SAGA also offers a number of single-traveler tours. 

Recommended publications offering travel resources and discounts for seniors include: the quarterly magazine Travel 50 & Beyond (www.travel50andbeyond.com); Travel Unlimited: Uncommon Adventures for the Mature Traveler (Avalon); 101 Tips for Mature Travelers, available from Grand Circle Travel (www.gct.com;   800/221-2610 or 800/959-0405); and Unbelievably Good Deals and Great Adventures That You Absolutely Can't Get Unless You're Over 50 (McGraw-Hill), by Joan Rattner Heilman. 

Smoking Stringent antismoking regulations have been passed banning smoking in all public areas including restaurants, bars, casinos, and hotel rooms.  Enforcement, however, is less strict than other areas in the United States.  Smoking is even banned at outdoor cafes that are serviced by waiters or waitresses, but this prohibition is often overlooked. 

Taxes The United States has no value-added tax (VAT) or other indirect tax at the national level.  Every state, county, and city may levy its own local tax on all purchases, including hotel and restaurant checks and airline tickets.  These taxes will not appear on price tags.  Puerto Rico levies a 7% sales and use tax on most major goods and services.  All hotel rooms on Puerto Rico are subject to a 9% to 11% tax (paradores carry a 7% levy). 

Telephones Many convenience, grocery, and retail postal service stores sell prepaid calling cards in denominations up to $50.  Many public pay phones at airports now accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa.  Local calls made from most pay phones cost 75¢. Most long-distance and international calls can be dialed directly from any phone.  To make calls within the United States and to Canada, dial 1 followed by the area code and the seven-digit number.  For other international calls, dial 011 followed by the country code, city code, and the number you are calling. 

Calls to area codes 800, 888, 877, and 866 are toll-free.  However, calls to area codes 700 and 900 (chat lines, bulletin boards, "dating" services, and so on) can be expensive—charges of 95¢ to $3 or more per minute.  Some numbers have minimum charges that can run $15 or more. 

For reversed-charge or collect calls, and for person-to-person calls, dial the number 0 then the area code and number; an operator will come on the line, and you should specify whether you are calling collect, person-to-person, or both.  If your operator-assisted call is international, ask for the overseas operator. 

For directory assistance (Information), dial 411 for local numbers and national numbers in the U.S. and Canada.  For dedicated long-distance information, dial 1, then the appropriate area code plus 555-1212. 

Time Puerto Rico is in the Atlantic Time Zone, which is one hour ahead of Eastern Standard Time.  However, because the island does not recognize Daylight Savings Time, it actually shares the same time as the U.S. East Coast when it celebrates DST, which is now 8 months, most of the year.  The continental United States is divided into four time zones: Eastern Standard Time (EST), Central Standard Time (CST), Mountain Standard Time (MST), and Pacific Standard Time (PST).  Alaska and Hawaii have their own zones.  For example, when it's 9am in Los Angeles (PST), it's 7am in Honolulu (HST),10am in Denver (MST), 11am in Chicago (CST), noon in New York City (EST), 5pm in London (GMT), and 2am the next day in Sydney. 

Daylight saving time (summer time) is in effect from 1am on the second Sunday in March to 1am on the first Sunday in November, except in Arizona, Hawaii, the U.S. Virgin Islands, and Puerto Rico.  Daylight saving time moves the clock 1 hour ahead of standard time. 

Tipping In hotels, tip bellhops at least $1 per bag ($2–$3 if you have a lot of luggage) and tip the chamber staff $1 to $2 per day (more if you've left a big mess for him or her to clean up).  Tip the doorman or concierge only if he or she has provided you with some specific service (for example, calling a cab for you or obtaining difficult-to-get theater tickets).  Tip the valet-parking attendant $1 every time you get your car. 

In restaurants, bars, and nightclubs, tip service staff and bartenders 15% to 20% of the check, tip checkroom attendants $2 per garment, and tip valet-parking attendants $2 per vehicle. 

As for other service personnel, tip cab drivers 15% of the fare; tip skycaps at airports at least $1 per bag ($2–$3 if you have a lot of luggage); and tip hairdressers and barbers 15% to 20%. 

Toilets You won't find public toilets or "restrooms" on the streets in most Puerto Rico cities but they can be found in hotel lobbies, bars, restaurants, museums, department stores, railway and bus stations, and service stations.  Large hotels and fast-food restaurants are often the best bet for clean facilities.  Public beaches, called balnearios, run by the commonwealth's National Parks Company or by municipal governments, have restrooms, showers, and changing facilities.  Restaurants and bars in resorts or heavily visited areas may reserve their restrooms for patrons. 

VAT See "Taxes" earlier in this section. 

Visas The U.S. State Department has a Visa Waiver Program (VWP) allowing citizens of the following countries to enter the United States without a visa for stays of up to 90 days: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Latvia, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, and the United Kingdom. ( Note: This list was accurate at press time; for the most up-to-date list of countries in the VWP, consult <http://travel.state.gov/visa>.)  Even though a visa isn't necessary, in an effort to help U.S. officials check travelers against terror watch lists before they arrive at U.S. borders, visitors from VWP countries must register online through the Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) before boarding a plane or a boat to the U.S. Travelers must complete an electronic application providing basic personal and travel eligibility information.  The Department of Homeland Security recommends filling out the form at least 3 days before traveling.  Authorizations will be valid for up to 2 years or until the traveler's passport expires, whichever comes first.  Currently, there is a US$14 fee for the online application.  Existing ESTA registrations remain valid through their expiration dates.  Note: Any passport issued on or after October 26, 2006, by a VWP country must be an e-Passport for VWP travelers to be eligible to enter the U.S. without a visa.  Citizens of these nations also need to present a round-trip air or cruise ticket upon arrival.  E-Passports contain computer chips capable of storing biometric information, such as the required digital photograph of the holder.  If your passport doesn't have this feature, you can still travel without a visa if the valid passport was issued before October 26, 2005, and includes a machine-readable zone; or if the valid passport was issued between October 26, 2005, and October 25, 2006, and includes a digital photograph.  For more information, go to <http://travel.state.gov/visa>.  Canadian citizens may enter the United States without visas, but will need to show passports and proof of residence. 

Citizens of all other countries must have (1) a valid passport that expires at least 6 months later than the scheduled end of their visit to the U.S.; and (2) a tourist visa. 

For information about U.S. visas, go to <http://travel.state.gov> and click on "Visas."  Or go to one of the following websites:

Australian citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information from the U.S. Embassy Canberra, Moonah Place, Yarralumla, ACT 2600 (  02/6214-5600) or by checking the U.S. Diplomatic Mission's website at <http://canberra.usembassy.gov/visas.html>. 

British subjects can obtain up-to-date visa information by calling the U.S. Embassy Visa Information Line (  09042-450-100 from within the U.K. at £1.20 per minute; or   866-382-3589 from within the U.S. at a flat rate of $16, payable by credit card only) or by visiting the "Visas to the U.S." section of the American Embassy London's website at <http://london.usembassy.gov/visas.html>. 

Irish citizens can obtain up-to-date visa information through the U.S. Embassy Dublin, 42 Elgin Rd.,  Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 (<http://dublin.usembassy.gov>;   1580-47-VISA [8472] from within the Republic of Ireland at €2.40 per minute). 

Citizens of New Zealand can obtain up-to-date visa information by contacting the U.S. Embassy New Zealand, 29 Fitzherbert Terrace, Thorndon, Wellington (<http://newzealand.usembassy.gov>;   644/462-6000). 

Visitor Information For information before you leave home, visit www.seepuertorico.com or contact the Puerto Rico Tourism Company offices at La Princesa Building, Paseo La Princesa 2, Old San Juan, PR 00902 (  800/866-7827 or 787/721-2400). 

Other Tourism Company offices are located at Luís Muñoz Marín Airport (  787/791-1014), open December to April daily from 9am to 10pm, May to November daily 9am to 8pm; and La Casita, at Plaza de la Darsena, Old San Juan, near pier 1, where the cruise ships come in (  787/722-1709).  This office is open Saturday through Wednesday from 8:30am to 8pm, Thursday and Friday 8:30am to 5pm. 

There are several tourism-related websites on Puerto Rico.  Some of the best are dedicated to specific areas: The Tourism Association of Rincón (www.rincon.org), Enchanted Isles (www.enchanted-isle.com), and Discover Culebra (www.culebra-island.com).  Puerto Rico Travel Maps (www.travelmaps.com) offers useful interactive and downloadable travel maps, while Eye Tour Puerto Rico (<http://places.eyetour.com>) offers travel videos of sites, attractions, hotels, and restaurants.  Ask for a copy of Qué Pasa, the official visitors' guide, which is distributed free at many hotels and restaurants.  Bienvenidos, a publication of the Puerto Rico Hotel & Tourism Association, is also chock-full of up-to-date visitor information and is also distributed free at island hotels. 

You might also want to contact the U.S. Department of State for regional background bulletins, which supply up-to-date information on crime, health concerns, import restrictions, and other travel matters.  Write to the Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402 (  866/512-1800 or 202/512-1800). 

A good travel agent can be a source of information.  Make sure your agent is a member of the American Society of Travel Agents (ASTA).  If you get poor service from an ASTA member agent, you can write to them at 1101 King St., Alexandria, VA 22314 (www.astanet.com;   703/739-2782). 

Water Although tap water is safe to drink, some visitors experience diarrhea, even if they follow the usual precautions.  It's best to stick to bottled water.  The illness usually passes quickly without medication if you eat simply prepared food and drink only mineral water until you recover.  If symptoms persist, consult a doctor. 

Wi-Fi See "Internet & Wi-Fi," earlier in this section.