Compass Box The Peat Monster 10th Anniversary Special Cask Strength Bottling, 54.7%

Lombard 'Jewels of Scotland' (distilled at Brora), 1982 vintage, 50%

Dun Bheagan (distilled at Springbank), Cask No. 1704, 35 year old, 1970 vintage, 50.5%

Duncan Taylor (distilled at Invergordon), 40 year old, 1965 vintage, 49.7%

Chivas Regal 18 year old Ultimate Cask Collection First Fill French Oak Finish, 48%

Signatory (distilled at Bowmore), 35 year old, 1970 vintage, 51.9%

Scotch Malt Whisky Society Hunting Hound on Holiday 4.180 24 year old 1989, 51.3%

The Whisky Exchange Masterpieces Range (distilled at Bowmore) 1990 (18 year old), 61.6%

Lagavulin 1993 Islay Jazz Festival bottling (bottled 2011), 55.4%

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Mortlach), 11 year old,k 1993 vintage, 60.7%

Port Ellen 1978 35 year old (Diageo Special Release 2014), 56.5%

Duncan Taylor (distilled at Strathisla), 35 year old, Cask #7009, 45.1%

That Boutique-y Whisky Company (distilled at Glenturret) 35 year old, 48%

That Boutique-y Whisky Company (distilled at Macallan) 29 year old, 43.5%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Carsebridge) 33 year old 1982, 45.4%

Exclusive Malts (distilled at Invergordon) 43 year old 1972, 48.2%

The Scotch Malt Whisky Society Pigs in Plaster 14 year old (#4.1980), 59.1%

Compass Box Peat Monster 10th Anniversary Limited Edition, 48.9%

Johnnie Walker Blenders’ Batch No. 2 Bourbon Cask and Rye Finish, 40%

Chivas Regal 18 year old Ultimate Cask Collection First Fill American Oak Finish, 48%

BenRiach Pedro Ximinez Finish, (Cask #7165), 1995 Vintage, 52.3%

Duncan Taylor (distilled at Glen Grant), Cask #3480, 37 year old, 51.5%

Duncan Taylor (distilled at Glenlivet), 1987 vintage, 22 year old, 46%

Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection: The Glenlivet Decades 1954 50.6%

The Exclusive Malts (distilled at Laphroaig) Cask #10866 22 year old 1990, 47.1%

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Mortlach), 36 year old, 1970 vintage, 43%

Port Ellen 32 year old (11th release) Special Releases 2011, 53.9%

Duncan Taylor (distilled at Strathisla), 36 year old, 1967 vintage, 42.5%

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Tomintoul), cask #644, 1967 vintage, 40 year old, 49.4%

William Grant Rare Cask Reserves Ghosted Reserve 21 year old, 42.8%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Cambus) 25 year old 1991, 62%

Exclusive Malts (distilled at Cameronbridge) 1984 33 year old, 51.2%

Duncan Taylor Rare Auld (distilled at Girvan) 1974 40 year old, 53.7%

Duncan Taylor (distilled at Bowmore), Cask #85013, 22 year, 1982 vintage, 58.9%

Hart Brothers (distilled at Laphroaig), 1990 vintage, 18 year old, 46%

Macallan Masters of Photography 3rd release 1989 cask #12251, 56.6%

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Old Pulteney), 35 year old, 1969 vintage, 43%

The McGibbons Provenance (distilled at Port Ellen), 19 year old, 1982, 62.5%

Lombard Jewels of Scotland (distilled at Springbank) 21 year old 1991 Cask No. 172, 49.7%

Mackillop's Choice (distilled at Tomintoul), 37 year old, 1966 vintage, 43%

Duncan Taylor (distilled at Royal Lochnagar) 23 year old 1986, 46.3%

Ballantine’s 17 year old Signature Distillery Editions – Scapa, 43%

That Boutique-y Whisky Company (distilled at Bruichladdich) 23 year old, 47.4%

That Boutique-y Whisky Company Blended Whisky #1 35 year old (batch 3), 46.5%

Douglas Laing Extra Old Particular (distilled at Mortlach) 22 year old, 57.1%

Johnnie Walker Blenders’ Batch No. 3 Triple Grain American Oak 10 year old, 41.3%

The Arran Malt, Madeira Wine Cask Finish (2008 Limited Edition), 50%

Balvenie DCS Compendium 1st Chapter 1968 46 year old (Cask 7293), 45.9%

A. D. Rattray (distilled at Bowmore), 18 year old (Cask #2075), 53.5%

Signatory (distilled at Brora), 24 year old, 1981 vintage, Cask # 06/656, 60.1%

Duncan Taylor (distilled at Bruichladdich), 34 year old, 1969 Vintage, 46%

Duncan Taylor (distilled at Bunnahabhain), 36 year old, 1967 vintage, 40.2%

Signatory (distilled at Bunnahabhain), Cask #2540, 27 year old, 1978 vintage, 54.4%

Signatory 'Unchillfiltered' (distilled at Cragganmore), 15 year old, 1989 vintage, 46%

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Glen Grant), 1966, 41 year old, 49.4%

Berry Brothers & Rudd (distilled at Glen Grant) 1972 37 year old, 51.8%

GlenDronach, 1990 vintage, 20 year old, oloroso cask #2621, 57.9%

Mackillop's Choice (distilled at Glenlivet), 27 year old, 1977 vintage, 43%

Duncan Taylor (distilled at Glenlivet) 1968 Vintage, 35 year old, 43.1% ABV

Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection: The Glenlivet Decades 1963, 40.6%

Glenmorangie Margaux Cask Finish, 18 year old, 1987 Vintage, 46%

Duncan Taylor Peerless (distilled at Glenrothes) 1969 41 year old, 44.2%

Signatory (distilled at Port Ellen), 1982 vintage, 26 year old (Cask # 1202), 54.1%

Duncan Taylor (distilled at Tamdhu), Cask # 7313, 34 year old, 1969 vintage, 40.2%

Scott's Selection (Distilled at 'North of Scotland'), 1964 Vintage, 45.5%

 That Boutique-y Whisky Company Blended Whisky No.1 50 year old, 46.6%

That Boutique-y Whisky Company (distilled at North British) 27 year old, 56.3%

Douglas Laing Provenance (distilled at Glenrothes) 10 year old, 46%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Glenrothes) 17 year old, 48.4%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Miltonduff) 22 year old, 51.5%

Douglas Laing Xtra Old Particular (distilled at Strathclyde) 40 year old, 55.4%

The Exclusive Malts (distilled at Glen Garioch) 20 year old 1994 (cask #15), 56.6%

Scotch Malt Whisky Society Berber Whiskey With a Hint of Smoke 53.199 12 year old, 57.5%

Bruichladdich, Port Charlotte “PC-7,” Cask #1215, 7 year old, 63.4% 

The Exclusive Malts (distilled at Invergordon) 30 year old 1984 (cask #8005), 52.3%

Johnnie Walker Blenders’ Batch Sherry Cask Finish 12 year old, 40%

Signatory (distilled at Aberlour), 20 year old, 1990 vintage, (Cask No. 101777), 56.1%

Gordon & MacPhail 'Connoisseurs Choice' (distilled at Bladnoch), 13 year old, 1991 Vintage, 46%

Scott's Selection (distilled at Bruichladdich), 14 year old, 1990 Vintage, 58.1%

Duncan Taylor (distilled at Bunnahabhain), cask #7020, 39 year old, 40.5%

Mackillop's Choice (distilled at Caol Ila), 15 year old, 1990 vintage, 43%

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Caol Ila), 14 year old, 1991 vintage, 46%

Douglas of Drumlanrig (distilled at Caol Ila), Cask #6616, 1985 vintage, 25 year old, 53.9%

Caol Ila Unpeated 1997 17 year old (Diageo Special Release 2015), 55.9%

Duncan Taylor 'Rarest of the Rare' Glencraig (distilled at Glenburgie), Cask #2926, 30 year old, 1974 vintage, 42.0%

Glenfiddich, 21 year old, Gran Reserva Caribbean Rum Finish, 40%

Glenglassaugh Massandra Connection 41 year old Sherry Wood Finish, 44.5%

Scott's Selection (distilled at Glenlivet), 27 year old, 1977 Vintage, 53.1%

Duncan Taylor (distilled at Glenlivet), cask #2831, 39 year old, 44.7%

Gordon & MacPhail Reserve (distilled at Glenrothes), 18 year old, 1986 vintage, 46%

Murray McDavid Mission IV (distilled at Highland Park), 1979 Vintage, 46%

A.D. Rattray (distilled at Highland Park) 19 year old 1992, 48.8%

Murray McDavid 'Leapfrog' (distilled at Laphroaig) 1987, 12 year old, 46%

The Exclusive Malts (distilled at Laphroaig) 8 year old 2005 Cask No. 484, 55.9%

Exclusive Malts (distilled at Linkwood) 14 year old 1999 Cask # 978, 55.8%

Duncan Taylor Dimensions Range (distilled at Longmorn) 1996, 52.6%

Mackillop's Choice (distilled at Mortlach), 22 year old, 1982 vintage, 43%

Berry Brothers & Rudd (distilled at Mortlach) 1989 21 year old, 48%

Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection (distilled at Old Pulteney), cask #06/125, 1994 vintage, 45%

Provenance (distilled at Port Ellen), 21 year old, 1982 vintage, 46%

The Whisky Exchange Elements of Islay Pe5 (distilled at Port Ellen), 57.9%

Port Ellen 1983 32 year old (Diageo Special Release 2015), 53.9%

Signatory, (distilled at Springbank) 1969 Vintage, 34 year old, 54.4% ABV

Duncan Taylor (distilled at Mosstowie), cask #5814, 30 year old, 48.1%

That Boutique-y Whisky Company (distilled at Arran) 19 year old, 49.7%

That Boutique-y Whisky Company Blended Whisky No.1 50 year old (batch 5), 46.6%

Douglas Laing Queen of the Hebrides (distilled at Laphroaig) 18 year old, 50%

Exclusive Malts (distilled at Ardmore) 14 year old 2000 Cask #233, 54.3%

The Exclusive Malts  (distilled at Invergordon)  42 year old 1973, 51.1%

 Exclusive Malts 2002 (distilled at Miltonduff) 14 year old, 54.1%

Exclusive Malts (Distilled at Benrinnes) 2006 11 year old,  49.1%

Exclusive Malts (distilled at Royal Brackla) 2006 11 year old, 58.2%

The Whisky Exchange (distilled at Bunnahabhain) 16 year old, 55.6%

Gordon & MacPhail Cask Strength 2005 (distilled at Caol Ila), 57.3%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Strathclyde) 27 year old 1988, 57.9%

Elements of Islay Pl1 (distilled at Bruichladdich, Port Charlotte style), 60%

Exclusive Malts (distilled at Bunnahabhain) 26 year old 1987 Cask # 2784, 47.8%

Mackillop's Choice (distilled at Caperdonich), 35 year old, 1968 Vintage, 43%

Master of Malt Darkness! Clynelish 16 year old Oloroso Cask Finish, 54.9%

Mackillop's Choice (distilled at Glen Ord), 21 year old, 1983 vintage, 43%

Wemyss Malts Merchant’s Mahogany Chest (distilled at Glen Scotia) 1991, 46%

Glenglassaugh Massandra Connection 35 year old Madeira Wood Finish, 41.7%

Signatory (distilled at Glenlivet), 25 year old, 1980 vintage, cask #13735, 53.9%

Mackillop’s Choice (distilled at Glenlivet), 1977 vintage, 30 year old, (Cask #19786), 43% 

Scott's Selection (distilled at Highland Park), 1981 vintage, 50.6%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Laphroaig) 14 year old, 48.4%

Blackadder Single Cask #30013 (distilled at Linlithgow) 1975 Vintage, 28 year old, 45% ABV

Murray McDavid Mission IV (distilled at Linlithgow), 1975 Vintage, 46%

Scott's Selection (distilled at Macallan), 30 year old, 1974 vintage, 52.4%

Wild Scotsman (distilled at Mortlach), 1994 vintage, 13 year old, 46%

Duncan Taylor Dimensions Range (distilled at Tormore) 2005, 52.1%

Wemyss Malts ‘Honey Spice’ (distilled at Bunnahabhain) 1991 (bottled 2011)

Wemyss Malts Salted Caramels (distilled at Glen Scotia) 1991, 46%

Wemyss Malts (distilled at Glenrothes) 1988 Aromatic Orange Tobacco, 46%

Wemyss Malt Caribbean Crème (distilled at Invergordon) 1988, 46%

The Whisky Exchange Elements of Islay Kh1 (distilled at Kilchoman), 59.7%

Jewels of Scotland (distilled at Dailuaine), 1973 vintage, 31 year old, 50%

Ballantine’s 17 year old Signature Distillery Editions – Glenburgie, 40%

The Clan Denny Single Grain (distilled at Cambus) 35 year old, 54.2%

That Boutique-y Whisky Company (distilled at Cragganmore) 26 year old, 50.2%

That Boutique-y Whisky Company Blended Whisky No.1 35 year old, 46.5%

That Boutique-y Whisky Company (distilled at Invergordon) 43 year old, 47.7%

Douglas Laing Directors’ Cut (distilled at Rosebank) 21 year old cask #10146, 53.8%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Miltonduff) 20 year old, 51.5%

The Exclusive Malts (distilled at Ben Nevis) 15 year old Highland 1998 (cask #1589), 51.1%

Exclusive Malts 2005 Ledaig (distilled at Tobermory) 11 year old, 57.6%

The Sovereign (distilled at Port Dundas) 26 year old 1988, 52.1%

The Pearls of Scotland (distilled at North of Scotland) 1971, 43.3%

The MacPhail’s Collection 8 year old (distilled at Bunnahabhain), 43%

The Famous Grouse Double Matured 16 year old Vic Lee Edition, 40%

Cask & Thistle (distilled at Aberfeldy), 29 year old, 1974 Vintage

That Boutique-y Whisky Company (distilled at Aberfeldy) Batch 1, 47%

Balvenie DCS Compendium 1st Chapter 1978 37 year old (Cask 2708), 50.2%

Signatory (distilled at Ben Nevis), Cask #7438, 31 year old, 1975 vintage, 58.4%

Wild Scotsman (distilled at Ben Nevis), 13 year old, 1992 vintage, cask #693

John MacDougall's Selection (distilled at Bladnoch), 16 year old, 55.8%,

Signatory (distilled at Bowmore), 16 year old, 1988 vintage, cask #42508, 46%

Murray McDavid (distilled at Bruichladdich) 1986, 15 year old, 46%

Duncan Taylor (distilled at Bunnahabhain) Rare Auld Range 1987 (24 year old), 55.7%

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Caol Ila), 8 year old, 1996 vintage, 58.1%

Gordon & MacPhail “Private Collection” Madeira Wood Finish (distilled at Caol Ila), 1998 Vintage, 10 year old, 46%

Caol Ila Unpeated 15 year old (Diageo Special Release 2014), 60.39%

Clynelish 1993, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs’ Choice range, 43%

Scott Selection (distilled at Glen Grant) 1973, 26 year old, 58.2%

Signatory (distilled at Glen Ord), 1998 Vintage, 11 year old, Cask #3465, 60.3%

Duncan Taylor NC2 (distilled at Glen Scotia), 1981 vintage, 18 year old, 46%

Douglas Laing Old Particular 21 year old (distilled at Glen Scotia), 51.5%

Murray McDavid Mission IV (distilled at Glen Spey), 1974 Vintage, 46%

Wemyss Malts Brandy Casket (distilled at Glen Garioch) 1989, 46%

Duncan Taylor 'Rarest of the Rare' (distilled at Glenugie), Cask #5156, 22 year old, 1975 vintage, 58.0%

Murray McDavid (distilled at Highland Park) 1988, 14 year old, 46%

Scott's Selection (distilled at Mortlach) 1961, 39 year old, 40.8%

Signatory (distilled at Rosebank), 14 year old, 1991 vintage, cask #4755, 43%

Duncan Taylor (distilled at Tamnavulin), 37 year old, 1967 vintage, 46.7%

Douglas Laing Director’s Cut (distilled at Tomatin) 45 year old, 51.6%

Scott's Selection (distilled at 'North of Scotland,') 1963, 46.8%

Wemyss Malts Heathery Smoke (distilled at Caol Ila) 30 year old, 46%

Wemyss Malts Stem Ginger Preserve (distilled at Mortlach) 1995, 46%

Wemyss Malts Waffles and Ice Cream (distilled at Clynelish) 1997, 54.2%

Clan Denny (distilled at Port Dundas) 1992 21 year old HH9452, 55.7%

That Boutique-y Whisky Company (distilled at Kilchoman, Batch 1), 55.5%

That Boutique-y Whisky Company Islay Blended Malt #1 23 year old, 46.3%

That Boutique-y Whisky Company (distilled at Invergordon) 42 year old, 47.7%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Glenburgie) 25 year old, 49.3%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Glen Moray) 14 year old, 48.4%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Glenturret) 1987, 51.5%

Exclusive Malts North Highland 17 year old 1996 Cask # 7025, 56.1%

The Exclusive Malts (distilled at BenRiach) 17 year old 1997 (cask #144744), 54.3%

Exclusive Malts (distilled at Highland Park) 2003 14 year old, 54.5%

Signatory Vintage 10 year old (distilled at Edradour, Cask 41), 46%

Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice (distilled at Macduff) 2000, 46%

Gordon & MacPhail Cask Strength 1995 (distilled at Aberfeldy), 55.8%

Gordon & MacPhail Distillery Labels 10 year old (distilled at Scapa), 43%

Douglas Laing Xtra Old Particular (distilled at Garnheath) 41 year old 1974, 48.9%

Duncan Taylor (distilled at Aberlour) Dimensions Range 1993 18 year old, 54.3%

The Arran Malt, Single Bourbon Cask, (Cask#1801), 1996 Vintage, 50.5%

Wemyss Malts Tarte au Citron (distilled at Auchentoshan) 1998, 46%

Langside Distillers (distilled at Auchentoshan) 16 year old, 48%

Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection Balblair 1991 Crozes-Hermitage Finish, 45%

Duncan Taylor (distilled at Benriach), 34 year old, 1968 vintage, 48%

Signatory (distilled at BenRiach), 12 year old, 1994 vintage, 59.5%

Lady of the Glen (distilled at Benrinnes) 14 year old 1998, 57.8%

Bladnoch 1993, Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs’ Choice range, 43%

Hunter Laing Old Malt Cask 20 year old (distilled at Bladnoch), 50%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Blair Athol) 20 year old, 51.5%

Chieftain’s (distilled at Bruichladdich) 22 year old 1989, 51.4%

Bunnahabhain Westering Home 17 year old Feis Ile 2014 bottling, 52.9%

GlenDronach, 1991 vintage, 18 year old, sherry puncheon cask #3182, 51.7%

Murray McDavid 'Mission' (distilled at Glenglassaugh), 1986 vintage, 20 year old, 55.3%

Glenugie, Chivas Brothers, Deoch an Doras bottling, 32 year old, 55.4% 

Adelphi Fascadale 12 year old Batch 5 (distilled at Highland Park), 46%

Hart Brothers (distilled at Inchgower), 26 year old, 1976 vintage, 49.9%

Provenance (distilled at Inchgower), 14 year old, 1990 vintage, 46%

The Exclusive Malts (distilled at Laphroaig) 2005 10 year old (cask #468), 54.2%

A.D. Rattray (distilled at Littlemill) 22 year old Cask #558, 49.2%

Distillery Select 'Craiglodge' (distilled at Loch Lomond), Cask #329, 13 year old, 45%

Blackadder Single Cask #1101 (distilled at Longmorn) 1972 Vintage, 31 year old, 45% ABV

Murray McDavid (distilled at Macallan), 1990 vintage, 16 year old, 46%

Macallan Masters of Photography 3rd release 1991 cask #7023, 50.8%

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Mortlach), cask #8173, 1994 vintage, 13 year old, 58.5%

Chieftain’s (distilled at Port Ellen), 1982 vintage, 25 year old, 43%

Douglas Laing Old Malt Cask (distilled at Royal Brackla) 12 year old, 50%

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Tamnavulin), 43%, 1989 Vintage, 40%

Douglas Laing Old Particular Ledaig 1993 (distilled at Tobermory), 50.9%

Murray McDavid Mission IV (distilled at Tomintoul), 1973 Vintage, 46%

Wemyss Malts (distilled at Auchentoshan) ‘Lemon Sorbet’ 1998, 46%

Wemyss Malts Chocolate Honeycomb (distilled at Bunnahabhain) 2001, 46%

Wemyss Malts At Anchor in a Cove 1991 (distilled at Glen Scotia), 46%

Wemyss Malts Foraged Fruit Fool (distilled at Blair Athol) 1991, 46%

Wemyss Malts Seville Bazaar 1991 (distilled at Glen Scotia), 46%

Wemyss Malts The Highland Mariner (distilled at Clynelish) 1997, 46%

Wemyss Malts Nuts about Pears 1991 (distilled at Blair Athol), 46%

Douglas Laing Old Particular Range (distilled at Auchroisk) 18 year old, 48.8%

Singleton of Glendullan 38 year old (Diageo Special Release 2014), 59.8%

Master of Malt Single Cask Series (distilled at Loch Lomond) 18 year old, 60.5%

Ballantine’s 17 year old Signature Distillery Editions – Glentauchers, 40%

That Boutique-y Whisky Company (distilled at Speyside) 17 year old, 53.4%

That Boutique-y Whisky Company (distilled at Tobermory) 21 year old, 51.2%

That Boutique-y Whisky Company (distilled at Auchroisk) 20 year old, 47.9%

That Boutique-y Whisky Company Blended Malt #2 18 year old (batch 3), 48%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Highland Park) 18 year old cask #0074, 48.4%

Douglas Laing Provenance (distilled at Laphroaig) 8 year old, 46%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Bunnahabhain) 17 year old, 48.4%

Douglas Laing Old Particular 1988 (distilled at Glenturret), 45.4%

Douglas Laing Old Particular 1995 (distilled at Glen Garioch), 51.5%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Girvan) 27 year old 1988, 62.6%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Port Dundas) 26 year old 1990, 51.9%

Exclusive Malts (distilled at Dalmore) 18 year old 1996 Cask # 2097, 52.5%

The Exclusive Malts (distilled at Girvan) 27 year old 1988, 53.4%

Exclusive Malts (distilled at Dailuaine) 2007 10 year old, 58.4%

The Exclusive Malts (distilled at Port Dundas) 25 year old 1991, 53.6%

Signatory Un-Chillfiltered Collection 11 year old (distilled at Edradour), 46%

Signatory Cask Strength Collection (distilled at Cambus) 22 year old 1991, 53.8%

Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice (distilled at Clynelish) 1996, 46%

Gordon & MacPhail Distillery Labels (distilled at Balblair) 10 year old, 43%

Berry Bros. & Rudd Exceptional Casks (distilled at North British) 50 year old, 58.9%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Cameronbridge) 25 year old 1990, 60.6%

Gordon & MacPhail Single Cask #12274 (distilled at Ardmore) 1990 Vintage, 56.4% ABV

The Arran Malt, Single Sherry Cask, (Cask#69), 1998 Vintage, 56.6%

That Boutique-y Whisky Company (distilled at Auchentoshan) Batch 2, 46.6%

Balvenie DCS Compendium 1st Chapter 1985 30 year old (Cask 612), 54.1%

BenRiach, Maderensis Fumosis (Madeira Wood Finish), 13 year old, 46%

Montgomerie's Single Cask #910 (distilled at Benrinnes) 1989 Vintage, 59.1% ABV

Douglas Laing Provenance (distilled at Blair Athol) 12 year old, 46%

Duncan Taylor (distilled at Bowmore), 21 year old, 1982 Vintage, Cask #8501, 59%

Whisky Galore (distilled at Bowmore), 16 year old, 1987 Vintage, 46%

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Brora), 24 year old, 1982 vintage, 43%

Duncan Taylor (distilled at Bunnahabhain), 1997 vintage, 12 year old, 46%

Dun Bheagan (distilled at Caol Ila) 1993 Vintage, 10 year old, 43% ABV

Signatory (distilled at Caol Ila), 14 year old, 1990 vintage, 56.2%

Gordon & MacPhail 'Connoisseurs Choice' (distilled at Caol Ila), 13 year old, 1991 vintage, 46%

Gordon & MacPhail “Private Collection” Port Wood Finish (distilled at Caol Ila), 1998 Vintage, 10 year old, 46%

Signatory 'Glenisla' (distilled at Glen Keith), Cask #19600, 29 year old, 1971 vintage, 50%

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Glencadam), 31 year old, 1974 vintage, 43%

Douglas Laing Provenance (distilled at Glen Garioch) 17 year old, 46%

Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection: The Glenlivet Decades 1980, 48.5%

Glenturret 26 year old 1986 (Hunter Laing/The Glenturret), 46.8%

Murray McDavid (distilled at Highland Park), 1989 vintage, 17 year old, 46%

Douglas Laing Old Malt Cask (distilled at Highland Park) 15 year old, 50%

Signatory (distilled at Laphroaig), 13 year old, 1993 vintage, 53.2%

Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection Ledaig 1993 St-Joseph Wood Finish, 45%

Creative Whisky Co. Exclusive Malts (distilled at Littlemill) 24 year old, 49.8%

Duncan Taylor (distilled at Longmorn), 29 year old, 1973 vintage, 47.6%

Montgomerie's (distilled at Macallan) 1989 Vintage, 13 year old, 46%

Macallan Masters of Photography 3rd release 1996 cask #10019, 55.5%

Mackillop’s Choice (distilled at Mortlach), 1989 vintage, 21 year old, 46%

Signatory (distilled at Rosebank), 12 year old, 1991 Vintage, 43%

Douglas Laing Old Malt Cask (distilled at Rosebank) 21 year old, 50%

Lonach (distilled at Carsebridge), 1063 vintage, 43 year old, 43%

Wemyss Malts (distilled at Clynelish) “A Day at the Coast” 14 year old, 46%

Wemyss Malts (distilled at Glen Scotia) 'Strawberry Ganache,' 46%

Wemyss Malts Fruit Bonbons (distilled at Glen Garioch) 1989, 66%

Wemyss Malts Candied Fruit (distilled at Auchentoshan) 1998, 46%

Wemyss Malts Peaches and Cream 1989 (distilled at Glen Garioch), 46%

Wemyss Malts Summer Fruit Cup 1998 (distilled at Auchentoshan), 46%

Douglas Laing Director’s Cut (distilled at Teaninich) 1982, 47.8%

Inverleven, Chivas Brothers, Deoch an Doras bottling, 36 year old, 48.5%

That Boutique-y Whisky Company (distilled at Macallan) 30 year old, 46.5%

That Boutique-y Whisky Company (distilled at Cambus) 24 year old, 49.7%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Dalmore) 17 year old cask #0080, 54.8%

Douglas Laing Provenance (distilled at Dailuaine) 10 year old, 46%

The Exclusive Malts (distilled at Auchroisk) 11 year old 2003 (cask #9), 56.4%

Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice 1997 (distilled at Tomatin), 46%

Pittyvaich 1989 25 year old (Diageo Special Release 2015), 49.9%

Balvenie DCS Compendium 1st Chapter 1997 17 year old (Cask 5365), 60.7%

Master of Malt Darkness! Benrinnes 15 year old Oloroso Cask Finish, 52.9%

Duncan Taylor (distilled at Blair Athol) 22 year old 1989, 50.5%

Bruichladdich Full Strength, 1989 vintage, 13 years old, 57.1 ABV %

Gordon & MacPhail Single Cask #1961 (distilled at Bruichladdich) 1989 Vintage, 57.9% ABV

Wemyss Malts Spiced Chocolate Cup (distilled at Clynelish) 1997, 46%

Single Malts of Scotland (distilled at Cragganmore), 1985 vintage, 22 year old, 56.7%

Cask & Thistle (distilled at Glen Grant), 15 year old, 1988 vintage, 46%

Scott's Selection (distilled at Glen Grant), 26 year old, 1977 Vintage, 53.5%

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Glenburgie) 1990 21 year old, 43%

Duncan Taylor 'Rarest of the Rare' (distilled at Glenury Royal), Cask #3049, 20 year old, 1984 vintage, 43.5%

Douglas Laing Old Particular 1996 (distilled at Highland Park), 48.4%

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Ledaig), cask #2, 1994 vintage, 12 year old, 46%

Douglas Laing Old & Rare (distilled at Littlemill) 20 year old, 51.5%

Mackillop's Choice (distilled at Macallan), 14 year old, 1989 vintage, 58.2%

Murray McDavid (distilled at Macallan), 1997 vintage, 9 year old, 46%

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Rosebank) 1989 Vintage, 10 year old, 40%

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Strathisla), Cask #8510, 25 year old, 48.7%

Wemyss Malts Cayenne Cocoa Bean 1997 (distilled at Clynelish), 46%

Wemyss Malts Banquet of Fruits 1994 (distilled at Aberfeldy), 46%

Wemyss Malts Rosy Apple Brûlée  (distilled at Invergordon) 1988,  46%

Kilchoman Single Cask Release Cask #370 (distilled 2008, bottled 2014), 59.8%

That Boutique-y Whisky Company (distilled at Glentauchers) 17 year old, 48.8%

That Boutique-y Whisky Company (distilled at North British) Batch 1, 51.1%

That Boutique-y Whisky Company (distilled at Caledonian) 29 year old, 47.7%

That Boutique-y Whisky Company (distilled at Invergordon) 25 year old, 49.8%

Cadenhead’s (distilled at Braes of Glenlivet) 16 year old, 56.9%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Craigellachie) 18 year old, 48.4%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Deanston, Cask 10,426) 1994, 51.7%

Douglas Laing Provenance (distilled at Caol Ila) 6 year old, 46%

Douglas Laing Xtra Old Particular (distilled at Carsebridge) 50 year old 1965, 40.1%

The Exclusive Malts (distilled at Strathclyde) 26 year old 1988 (cask #62016), 55.1%

Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice 1999 (Ledaig, distilled at Tobermory), 46%

Cadenhead Authentic Collection 28 year old (distilled at Highland Park), 48.3%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Girvan) 25 year old 1989, 51.5%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at North British) 27 year old 1988, 50.2%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Strathclyde) 27 year old 1987, 51.5%

Exclusive Regions Single Grain (distilled at North British) 10 year old, 50%

The Arran Malt, St. Emilion Wine Cask Finish (Limited Edition), 50%

Duncan Taylor 'Rarest of the Rare' (distilled at Banff), Cask #3421, 30 year old, 1975 vintage, 43.5%

John McDougall's Selection (distilled at Bladnoch), 15 year old, 55.8%

Signatory (distilled at Bowmore), 11 year old, 1999 vintage, 46%

Blackadder 'Raw Cask' (distilled at Bruichladdich), Cask #841, 1986 vintage, 54.4%

The Whisky Exchange Elements of Islay Br2 (distilled at Bruichladdich), 49.3%

Berry Bros. & Rudd (distilled at Bunnahabhain) 23 year old 1989, 46%

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Caol Ila), cask #00/3454, 15 year old, 1991 vintage, 46%

Signatory 'Un-chillfiltered' (distilled at Clynelish), 13 year old, 1991 vintage, 46%

Scott's Selection (distilled at Glen Elgin), 1980 Vintage, 44.1%

Duncan Taylor (distilled at Glen Grant) 1972 Vintage, 31 year old, 56.1% ABV

Hart Brothers (distilled at Glen Grant), 29 year old, 1972 vintage, 53.6%

Murray McDavid Mission IV (distilled at Glendronach), 1974 Vintage, 46%

GlenDronach, 1971 vintage, 39 year old, oloroso cask #489, 48.8%

GlenDronach, 1989 vintage, 20 year old, pedro ximenez puncheon cask #3315, 53.2%

Cask & Thistle (distilled at Glenlivet), 30 year old, 1973 Vintage, 46%

Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection: The Glenlivet Decades 1991, 54.4%

Berry Bros. & Rudd (distilled at Imperial) 17 year old 1995, 46%

Signatory (distilled at Laphroaig), 7 year old, 1999 vintage, 58.0%

Duncan Taylor 'Rarest of the Rare' (distilled at Linlithgow), Cask #2214, 21 year old, 1982 vintage, 63.5%

Douglas Laing Old Malt Cask series (distilled at Littlemill) 21 year old, 50%

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Longmorn), 15 year old, 1989 vintage, 46%

Signatory (distilled at Macallan), 14 year old, 1990 vintage, cask #16294, 46%

Macallan Masters of Photography 3rd release 1995 cask #14007, 59.6%

Master of Malt Darkness! Macallan 15 year old PX Cask Finish, 52.3%

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Miltonduff) Cask No. 9461, 56.3%

Whisky Galore (distilled at Old Pulteney), 16 year old, 1989 vintage, 46%

Wemyss Malts ‘Lemon Grove’ (distilled at Cragganmore) 1989 (bottled 2011), 46% 

Wemyss Malts (distilled at Bunnahabhain) 1991 Oysters with Lemon Pearls, 46%

Wemyss Malts (distilled at Bunnahabhain) 1991 Thread of Smoke, 46%

Wemyss Malts Bench with a Sea View (distilled at Clynelish) 1997, 46%

Wemyss Malts Kirsch Gateau (distilled at Bunnahabhain) 1988, 56%

Wemyss Malts Vintage Strawberry Punnet (distilled at Invergordon) 1988, 46%

Chieftain’s (distilled at Glen Moray), 1989 vintage, 18 year old, 43%

Master of Malt Single Cask Series (distilled at North British) 18 year old, 52.3%

That Boutique-y Whisky Company (distilled at Loch Lomond) Batch 1, 52.4%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Bowmore) 18 year old, 60.1%

Douglas Laing Provenanace (distilled at Longmorn) 11 year old, 46%

Douglas Laing Old Particular 10 year old (Ledaig, distilled at Tobermory), 48.4%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Invergordon) 28 year old 1987, 56.5%

The Exclusive Malts (distilled at Tomatin) 10 year old 2004 (cask #2645), 57.4%

Gordon & MacPhail Connoisseurs’ Choice 1998 Ledaig (distilled at Tobermory), 43%

Glenkeir Treasures (Ledaig, distilled at Tobermory) 9 year old, 40%

Signatory (distilled at Auchentoshan), 12 year old, 1992 vintage, cask #7358, 46%

Master of Malt Darkness! Benrinnes 15 year old PX Cask Finish, 53.5%

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Caol Ila), 12 year old, 1991 Vintage, 40%

Exclusive Malts (distilled at Dalmore) 13 year old 2000 Cask #6952, 53.5%

Gordon & MacPhail Single Cask #5054 (distilled at Glen Grant) 1990 Vintage, 56.0% ABV

GlenDronach, 1978 vintage, 31 year old, oloroso cask #1040, 51.2%

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Glenlossie), 27 year old, 1978 vintage, cask #1815

Signatory (distilled at Glenrothes), Cask #1082, 12 year old, 1994 vintage, 46%

The Classic Cask (distilled at Highland Park), 23 year old, 1082 vintage, 43%

Mackillop's Choice (distilled at Imperial), 23 year old, 1979 vintage, 56.6%

Cask & Thistle (distilled at Imperial), 28 year old, 1975 vintage, 46%

Murray McDavid (distilled at Isle of Jura, 1989) 13 year old, 46%

Lombard 'Jewels of Scotland' (distilled at Lochside), 1981 vintage, 50%

Distillery Select 'Croftengea' (distilled at Loch Lomond), Cask #1, 10 year old, 45%

Connoisseurs Choice (distilled at Mannochmore), 15 year old, 1990 vintage, 46%

Signatory 'Mosstowie' (distilled at Miltonduff), 27 year old, 1979 vintage, Cask # 12759, 54.1%

Signatory (distilled at Rosebank), 15 year old, 1990 vintage, Cask # 1509, 56.6%

Douglas Laing Provenance 8 year old (distilled at Ben Nevis), 46%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Glenallachie) 22 year old, 51.5%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Macallan) 21 year old, 51.5%

The Exclusive Malts  (distilled at Caledonian)  28 year old 1987, 52.1%

Single Malts of Scotland (distilled at Bunnahabhain) 25 year old, 50.4%

Duncan Taylor (distilled at Invergordon), Cask #15517, 41 year old, 50.2% 

Scott's Selection (distilled at Auchentoshan), 21 year old, 1983 vintage, 52.4%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Bowmore) 15 year old, 48.4%

Mackillop's Choice (distilled at Caol Ila), 26 year old, 1979 vintage, 43%

Murray McDavid Mission IV (distilled at Clynelish), 1976 Vintage, 46%

Berry Brothers & Rudd (distilled at Cragganmore) 1997 14 year old

Blackadder Raw Cask #6437 (distilled at Glen Grant) 1971 Vintage, 31 year old, 55.7% ABV

Hart Brothers (distilled at Glenturret), 10 year old, 1991 vintage, 53.6% ABV

The MacPhail's Collection (distilled at Glenturret), 15 year old, 46%

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Highland Park), 12 year old, 1992 Vintage, 58.1%

Lagavulin Cask #1716 (distilled 1998) Feis Ile 2012 bottling, 55.1%

Murray McDavid (distilled at Littlemill), 1991 vintage, 16 year old, 46%

Scott's Selection (distilled at Longmorn), 33 year old, 1971 Vintage, 53.5%

Scott's Selection (distilled at Old Pulteney), 1977 vintage, 56.9%

Signatory 'Craigduff' (distilled at Strathisla), 33 year old, 1973 vintage, 47.5%

Berry Bros. & Rudd (distilled at Glen Moray) 21 year old 1991, 57.3%

Ballantine’s 17 year old Signature Distillery Editions – Miltonduff, 43%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Glenburgie) 7 year old, 46%

The Exclusive Malts (distilled at Bowmore) 15 year old 1999 (cask #350), 54.2%

Single Malts of Scotland (distilled at BenRiach) 24 year old, 50.2%

Single Malts of Scotland (distilled at Allt-a-Bhainne) 1992, 50.2%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at North British) 21 year old, 50.9%

Balvenie DCS Compendium 1st Chapter 2005 9 year old (Cask 6587), 57.5%

Bunnahabhain Moine Dram an Stiùireadair 10 year old Feis Ile 2014 bottling, 56.6%

Signatory (distilled at Dallas Dhu), 26 year old, 1979 vintage, Cask # 1391, 57.1%

Signatory 'Unchillfiltered' (distilled at Edradour), 10 year, 1992 Vintage, 46%

Signatory 'Glencraig' (distilled at Glenburgie), 30 year old, 1975 vintage, Cask # 7938, 54.4%

GlenDronach, 1993 vintage, 17 year old, oloroso sherry cask #529, 60.5%

Duncan Taylor Dimensions Range (distilled at Mortlach) 1989, 55.8%

Duncan Taylor 'Rarest of the Rare' (distilled at North Port), Cask #774, 24 year old, 1981 vintage, 58.0%

Gordon & MacPhail Single Cask #1535 (distilled at Rosebank) 1991 Vintage, 59.2% ABV

Douglas Laing Provenance Young & Feisty (distilled at Talisker), 46%

Douglas Laing Provenance (distilled at Talisker) 6 year old 2008, 46%

Wemyss Malts (distilled at Caol Ila) 1982 Smoke on the Water, 46%

That Boutique-y Whisky Company (distilled at Invergordon) Batch 2, 58.3%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Bunnahabhain) 16 year old, 48.4%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Tamdhu) 16 year old, 46%

Douglas Laing Provenance (distilled at Mortlach) 8 year old, 46%

Douglas Laing Premier Barrel (distilled at Glengoyne) 7 year old, 46%

Douglas Laing Premier Barrel (distilled at Talisker) 5 year old, 46%

Single Malts of Scotland (distilled at Glenallachie) 1992, 47.9%

The Sovereign (distilled at Port Dundas) 25 year old 1990, 51.9%

Duncan Taylor Rare Auld (distilled at Aberlour) 1993 18 year old, 54.4%

Master of Malt Darkness! Ardbeg 21 year old PX Cask Finish, 40.1%

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Banff), 28 year old, 1976 vintage, 43%

Signatory (distilled at Caol Ila), 15 year old, 1991 vintage, cask #06/324/1&2, 46%

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Caol Ila), cask #12903, 1998 vintage, 8 year old, 46%

Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection: The Glenlivet Decades 1974, 50.1%

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Rosebank), cask #1536, 1991 vintage, 13 year old, 59.3%

Douglas Laing Single Minded (distilled at Jura) 8 year old, 41.5%

Single Malts of Scotland (distilled at Craigellachie) 1996, 52.7%

Signatory 'Unchillfiltered' (distilled at Linkwood), 14 year old, 1990 vintage, 46%

The Maltman (distilled at Linkwood) 18 year old Port Finish, 46%

Duncan Taylor Rare Auld (distilled at Glen Moray) 1986 24 year old, 55.6%

That Boutique-y Whisky Company (distilled at North British; batch 2), 49.3%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Strathclyde) 10 year old 2005, 50.9%

Signatory (distilled at Bunnahabhain), cask #5279, 1997 vintage, 9 year old, 59.9%

Douglas Laing Old Particular (distilled at Port Dundas) 25 year old 1990, 51.5%

Signatory (distilled at Kinclaith), Cask #301446, 35 year old, 1969 vintage, 51.3%

Gordon & MacPhail (distilled at Port Ellen), 1982 vintage, 24 year old, 40%

Distillery Select 'Croftengea' (distilled at Loch Lomond), 9 year old, 1997 vintage, 45%

Duncan Taylor (distilled at Cameronbridge), Cask #3583, 28 year old, 54.4%

Distillery Select 'Craiglodge' (distilled at Loch Lomond), 8 year old, 1998 vintage, 45%

Distillery Select 'Inchmoan' (distilled at Loch Lomond), Cask #151, 13 year old, 1992 vintage, 45%

Magnificently powerful and intense. Caramels, dried peats, elegant cigar smoke, seeds scraped from vanilla beans, brand new pencils, peppercorn, coriander seeds, and star anise make for a deeply satisfying nosing experience. Silky caramels, bountiful fruits of ripe peach, stewed apple, orange pith, and pervasive smoke with elements of burnt tobacco. An abiding finish of smoke, dry spices, and banoffee pie sweetness. Close to perfection. Editor's Choice

What impresses me most is how this whisky evolves; it's incredibly complex. On the nose and palate, this is a thick, viscous, whisky with notes of sticky toffee, earthy oak, fig cake, roasted nuts, fallen fruit, pancake batter, black cherry, ripe peach, dark chocolate-covered espresso bean, polished leather, tobacco, a hint of wild game, and lingering, leafy damp kiln smoke. Flavors continue on the palate long after swallowing. This is what we all hope for (and dream of) in an older whisky!

There have been some legendary Bowmores from the mid-60s and this is every bit their equal. All of them share a remarkable aroma of tropical fruit, which here moves into hallucinatory intensity: guava, mango, peach, pineapple, grapefruit. There’s a very light touch of peat smoke, more a memory of Islay than the reality. Concentrated; even at low strength the palate is silky, heady, and haunting, and lasts forever in the dry glass. A legend is born. (Eight bottles only for the U.S.) Editor's Choice.

With a name inspired by a 1926 Buster Keaton movie, only 1,698 bottles produced, and the news that one of the two batches is more than 30 years old, the clues were there that this blend was never going to be cheap. It isn't, but it's superb, rich in flavor that screams dusty old oak office, fresh polish, and Sunday church, with spices, oak dried fruits, squiggly raisins, and a surprising melting fruit-and-nut dairy chocolate back story.

Captivating, enticing, and wonderfully charming, this first blended malt from Chivas Regal contains selections of five Speyside malts: Strathisla, Longmorn, Tormore, Allt-a-Bhainne, and Braeval. Red apple, cherry, raspberry fudge, peach and mango fruit salad, dusting of cinnamon, and dry heather sprigs. In essence, it’s rich and satisfying, with dark vanilla, apricot, Bourneville-covered Brazil nuts, and tangerine, smoothed over by caramel and wood spices, maltiness, and gingersnap biscuits. Quite heavenly. Editor's Choice

Powerful, muscular, well-textured, and invigorating. Even within the realm of Ardbeg, this one stands out. The more aggressive notes of coal tar, damp kiln, anise, and smoked seaweed are supported by an array of fruit (black raspberry, black cherry, plum), dark chocolate, espresso, molasses, bacon fat, kalamata olive, and warming cinnamon on the finish. Quite stunning!

Deep gold color. Surprisingly lively on the nose for its age. A complex array of fruit (tangerine, sultana, pink grapefruit, papaya, and the general overall citrus DNA that you’ll find in old Bowmores), with balancing notes of honey and vanilla. A hint of damp smoke and coconut. Just like with Black Bowmore, this is a texturally soothing whisky on the palate, which continues to evolve in waves -- first the sweet honey, coating vanilla, and lively fruit, then turning quite visceral, with juicy oak, damp earth, deep peat smoke, and charcoal, followed by another wave of fruit (this time, dried fruit), finishing off with subtle charred oak and roasted nuts. This whisky is better than White Bowmore, and it falls just short of Black Bowmore (which I rated 97), because it’s just a bit softer and less vibrant on the palate.

Definitely showing its age, but not in a bad way — the distillery character is still there. Solid foundation of thick, chewy toffee, old pot still rum, and fig cake. Fruity too, with notes of golden raisin and nectarine. Soft, seductive peat smoke, juicy oak, cinnamon, and brine round out the palate. Excellent balance! One of the finest Bowmore whiskies I’ve ever tasted (and, at this price, will probably never taste again.) (Editor's Pick) 

The Dalmore is one of a handful of whiskies that seem to be able to age in the cask for many decades and still improve. This one is incredibly viscous on the nose and palate (and very heavy on the tongue), with chewy toffee and old pot still rum. The classic Dalmore marmalade note shines throughout, along with vanilla cream, an array of dried spices (especially cinnamon and evergreen), juicy oak, forest bedding, rancio, old armagnac, polished leather, tobacco, maple syrup, dark chocolate, almond macaroon, and subtle espresso. Long, mouth-coating finish. The flavors evolve like waves lapping on the palate -- especially the interplay with the oak. I can’t drink this whisky slowly enough. A rare experience for the lucky few who can afford it. (Price is per 100ml).

A rich amber color and elegantly oxidized notes greet you. There are luscious old fruits—pineapple, dried peach, apricot—and puffs of coal-like smokiness. In time, sweet spices (cumin especially) emerge. Superbly balanced. The palate, while fragile, still has real sweetness alongside a lick of treacle. It can take a drop of water, allowing richer, darker fruits to emerge. The finish is powerful, long, and resonant. Superb, not over-wooded, and a fair price for such a rarity. £1,995

It’s great that Glenlivet releases whiskies under the 'Cellar Collection' label. It really shows the true potential of Glenlivet. This bottling is classic ultra-matured Glenlivet, and rivals the 1959 vintage Cellar Collection as the best one ever. An incredibly complex whisky, with notes of vanilla, ripe barley, coconut, and caramel. All this is accentuated by glazed orange, hazelnut, and a potpourri of dried spices. Not the least bit tired for such an aged whisky. (Only 800 bottles for the U.S.)

Classic sherry cask-aged Macallan. Antique amber with hints of ruby. Thickly textured, complex, and quite deep, with notes of toffee, ripe pit fruit, raisin, apple pie, dried spice (cinnamon, clove, ginger, and mint), and a wisp of smoke. An exceptional, multi-faceted Macallan! 

A remarkable beauty from the Angus town of Montrose. The elegant nose shows a dram at peace with itself; golden syrup, hay bales, ground hazelnut, liquid honey, French baguette, High Mountain oolong, and rubbed spice blends. Refreshing palate of honey, toffee, citrus, honeycomb wax, and a profusion of sweet vanilla. Rich, sweet oak and deep pepper notes to finish. Truly a sublime and venerable grain. (106 bottles) £2,400

A marriage of three different single malts, aged in American and French oak. This whisky shows the advantage of marrying whiskies from more than one distillery (when properly done). Vibrant, with a complex array of fruit (orchard fruit, sultana), sweetness (light toffee, marzipan, honeyed malt), spice (creamy vanilla, mocha, warming pepper), smoke (tar, smoked olive, coal), and lesser notes of toasted almond and beach pebbles. More smoke and tar on the palate than the nose, yet always in balance. Well played! (Editor's Choice)

As you’d expect, solid peat is the first thing out of the glass, but this isn’t just a peat beast. Underneath are honey, dried fruit, and malt. The palate is all about balance, with honeyed malt, raisin, and oak spice all complementing smoky peat. A lush mouthfeel makes you forget it’s cask strength. A pure love note in a glass from Compass Box to Park Avenue Liquor.  (Park Avenue Liquor only)

Formulated to celebrate the 200th anniversary of Johnnie Walker. This is a fabulous whisky for anyone who can spring for the bottle. It is deep, dark, and quite powerful with a hefty malt foundation and sweeter notes of toffee and vanilla combined with resinous oak, complex fruit (both bright citrus notes and darker pit fruits), crisp mint, tobacco, polished leather, and heavy peat smoke. A tour de force of a blended scotch-as big as many single malts reviewed here. 

An essay in balance on both the aroma and palate. Silky layers of delicate sweetness (honeyed vanilla, caramel, light toffee) permeate through clean, delicate fruit (citrus, peach, currant), and subtle, complex dried spice. Clean finish, with a hint of dark chocolate. A very versatile, very drinkable blend which suits most moods and occasions. Indeed, a benchmark blended scotch. 

Cask #3145 is the lighter in color, and the sweet notes that balance the smoke and seaweed are not as deeply caramelized as Cask #3542. I’m tasting hints of shortbread and caramel, which show through the peat smoke, tobacco, toasted nuts, firm spice notes (cinnamon, clove, and mint), and lingering brine. Very complex. 
Price listed includes the entire Double Barrel 1974 Vintage set.

With the Ardbeg 17 year old off the market, it’s nice to see a new Ardbeg in the line-up. Uigeadail costs about the same as the Ardbeg 17 did but, with Uigeadail, you’re getting a much more interesting whisky. Uigeadail consists of a marriage of younger whisky (from 1990 and 1993) with much older whisky matured in sherry casks. The marriage works exceptionally well, with the younger whiskies providing the classic Ardbeg intensity many of us have come to expect, while the older whiskies contribute depth, maturity, and complexity. And bottling the whisky at cask-strength without chill-filtration ensures that none of the flavors are stripped out. This is an incredibly complex Islay whisky, with its bonfire smoke, brine, and peppered olive notes balanced by a taming sweetness of vanilla, marshmallow, and toffee. Interwoven notes of candied fruit and sugared almonds round out the palate. Incredibly long finish. 

This expression was matured in a European oak oloroso sherry butt. Overtly sherried, with figs, sultanas, cinnamon, and old warm leather on the nose. Finally, fragrant, with milk chocolate-coated Turkish delight. The Turkish delight carries over to the palate, before the chocolate darkens to plain, with raisins, smoked ham, and cloves in the long finish. Remarkably, almost no tannic oak. Textbook stuff.

The whisky is sensational, a glorious mix of ginseng syrup, baked banana, semi-dried tropical fruits, and an exotic smoked edge. Without the last, you could believe it was a delicate Cognac. In time, there’s peppermint and guava syrup. A sip is all you need to reveal perfect, thrilling harmony: light nuttiness, pollen, subtle fruits, gentle smoke, and light fungal touches. It’s stunning, but it’s £16,000! Whisky this great, even in limited quantities, should be fairly priced. Points off. £16,000

Astonishingly fresh and clean for 30 years in oak, and with incredible depth. Slight oily texture. Appetizing brine, with honeyed vanilla, mustard seed, green olive, Seville orange, and lemon zest. Underlying smoke, damp peat, and seaweed. Put simply, Brora at its finest. 

Bottled in 2004, but just recently put in circulation here in the U.S. (Very strange.) It’s worth the wait. It’s fresh (even at 22 years old), appetizing, spicy, and briny. There’s a sweet foundation of vanilla wafer and caramel, with a slightly oily texture. White pepper, seaweed, mustard seed, lime, gherkin, and teasing gin botanicals add complexity. Spicy, salty finish. A vibrant, dynamic expression of the shuttered original Clynelish distillery. Quite stunning, actually. Find yourself a bottle before they’re gone!

This whisky has all the positive aspects of a very mature whisky (depth, complexity) without all the negative ones (excessive oak, one-dimensional). Very clean, but oily in texture, with honeyed vanilla, caramel, citrus (tangerine, orange, lemon), nectarine, olive brine, black pepper, ginger, cut grass, mustard seed, and just the hint of teasing smoke. Briny, spicy finish. Wonderful!

Though Brora has acquired cult status, it has to be said that for a few years these Special Release Broras went through an off-putting butyric phase, which might well have put off newbies to this legendary closed site, who must have wondered what all the fuss was about.
One nose of the 2010 SR shows that these days have been consigned to the past. This is classy from the word go. Gold in color; the nose manages to be both overtly waxy — I’m reminded of waxed paper — and fragrant. Behind that is coal smoke, rather than the heavy peatiness of earlier vintages (Brora’s peating levels varied in its last years). In other words, this is robust and powerful, with an evocative aroma that speaks of old sea chests, the seashore, and vellum. Hugely concentrated, with massed fruits — quince especially — following behind. This is amplified with a drop or two of water. 
The palate is unctuous and heavy. Tectonic plates move more quickly than this does in the mouth. When it does, the oily/waxy textures and flavors move slowly — camphor, peach, membrillo, hints of citrus, and toward the finish a growing brininess (akin to olives) and a hint of smoke. Elemental and one of the best Broras for years. [not available in the U.S.]£280  

Maturation of this 1978 distillate has taken place in European oak and refill American oak casks. Fresh and fruity on the early, herbal nose; a hint of wax, plus brine, developing walnut fudge, and an underlying wisp of smoke. Finally, wood resin. The palate is very fruity, with mixed spices, then plain chocolate, damp undergrowth, gentle peat smoke, and finally coal. Mildly medicinal. Ashy peat and aniseed linger in the long, slowly drying finish. Brora at its very best. (2,944 bottles) Editor's Choice

It has been quite a while since we’ve seen a new Glenfarclas here in the U.S. but, after tasting this whisky, it was worth the wait. Glenfarclas is a rich, stylish whisky that ages very well, and this 1968 vintage proves it. It is very deep and mature, with complex fruit (sultana, marmalade) layered by sweetness (honey, caramel, and toffee). All those years in oak contribute another dimension to the whisky, providing a dry, oaky spiciness, polished leather, and a hint of tobacco-especially on the finish. Never does the whisky taste tired or excessively woody. It expresses all that is good about an older whisky, without any of the down side. I’m told that most of the 1,400 bottles imported to the U.S. went to the Chicago area. It’s worth taking the extra time to track down a bottle. 

Glenfarclas has a proven track record for aging very well. I’ve enjoyed some amazing 25 and 30 year old expressions, in addition to some older vintage offerings. Does this new 40 year old follow suit? Absolutely! It’s complex and well-rounded, with great depth and no excessive oak. Lush, candied citrus (especially orange), old pot still rum, maple syrup, fig, roasted nuts, and polished leather, with hints of mocha, candied ginger, and tobacco. A bit oily in texture (which I find soothing) with good tannic grip on the finish. A classic, well-matured Glenfarclas — and a very good value for its age. (Editor's Choice)

An excellent example of an ultra-mature, sherried whisky done the right way. Much darker and more decadent than the other two releases here. Silky texture. Rummy, jammy fruit, toasted walnut, leather, spice (cinnamon, clove), tobacco, and dark chocolate, with a foundation of juicy oak. Tasting this whisky, you know it’s old, but you also know it’s very good. 

A marriage of three casks, one of them an ex-sherry butt. The sherry is certainly evident, and this is more sherried than many of the Cellar Collection whiskies to date. Opulent and seductive, with prominent fruit (glazed spiced oranges, ripe peach, and hints of pineapple and coconut), caramel-coated nuts, and vanilla custard. A peppering of ginger and cinnamon throughout. Coating, soothing finish. Polished and seamless, with no trace of excessive oak. One of the richest -- and finest -- Cellar Collections to date. Anyone willing and able to cough up the bucks for this whisky will be richly rewarded. (Only 240 bottles available in the U.S., beginning June 2010.)

Dark and decadent. Notes of old pot still rum, roasted nuts, chocolate fudge, burnished leather, Dundee cake, tobacco, and a hint of damp peat. When I drink this, I feel like I’m sitting in the study of a stately Scottish mansion contemplating a fine, aged Cuban cigar. Royalty in a glass. (Bottled for Binny’s Beverage Depot) 

The flavors evolve on the nose and palate, with peat kiln smoke, fresh asphalt, damp earth warehouses, morning-after campfire ash, and old boat dock contrasting nicely with toffee apple, crème caramel, delicate raspberry preserve, and dried citrus. Long, smoky, spicy, briny, seaweed, dirty martini-tinged finish. This whisky comes from a combination of both sherry and bourbon casks, and the marriage works. I also like that it retains some of its youthful brashness, while showing the depth that maturity affords a whisky. A delicious, well-balanced, old-fashioned Laphroaig.(Reviewing this whisky gave me an excuse to open a “fresh” bottle of its predecessor, the 30 year old, and here are my thoughts. The 30 year old is softer, mellower, drier, and more debonair. The 25 year old is bolder, more youthful, more dynamic, richer, and sweeter -- bottling at cask strength really helps here. Both whiskies are very nice, but quite different in personality.)

Amber color. Richly textured (great mouth feel), with vanilla fudge, nougat, ripe citrus, and ginger cake leading to a complex, spicy finish. Great depth on this one. Well-polished. My pick of the lot.

Quite fresh and appetizing for a 35 year old whisky, but not too surprising for a Springbank. Notes of creamy vanilla, burnt caramel, coconut custard, brine, and a hint of anise. Complex, vibrant, and well-balanced. Reminds me why I love those old Springers. Devotees will not be disappointed. A stunning whisky! (Exclusive to Astor Wines and Spirits.) 

Bottled in 2001, but still in circulation and (fortunately) just finding its way to me. These Springers from the ‘60s are getting rarer and quite expensive. This is a great example of why they are so coveted -- clean and well matured, with no sign of excessive oak. Elegant sherried fruit dovetails nicely with polished oak and a steady stream of dried spices. Look for citrus, nectarine, red licorice, coconut oil, ripe banana, and vanilla custard with warming cinnamon and brine. Warm, spicy finish. Very polished!

A 12 year old blended whisky was created in 1972 consisting of 70 different malt whiskies and 12 grain whiskies.  The blend was then placed in three sherry casks, where it was matured for the next 36 years (highly irregular, to say the least).  The quality of the sherry casks is quite evident, as is the whisky's age.  There's substantial malt content here, too.  These three factors, along with the wide range of malt and grain whiskies, combine to create one of the finest blended Scotch whiskies I have ever tasted.  It's dark, mysterious, and enormously complex, with notes of molasses, fig cake, dried fruit, tobacco, dark chocolate, old pot still rum, and polished leather, finishing with lingering cinnamon and mint.  There's no sign of this whisky getting tired at all.  I am pleased they bottled it at natural strength and didn't water it down to 40% or 43% abv, which could have ruined it.
(Allocation information:  There's a total of 1.347 bottles, of which only 350 are being imported to the U.S.  They are available exclusively at Binny's Beverage Depot (Chicago), Park Avenue Liquors (New York), and Wally's (Los Angeles)).

Would you have gambled The Last Drop 1960 liquid in new sherry wood for four more years? The indulgent nose proffers maple syrup, buckwheat honey, roasted spices, blue grapes, pomegranate, raspberry compote, cilantro, pandan leaf, and beefsteak juices soaking into mushroom gills. The complex, lustrous mouthfeel is replete with a sheen of rich maltiness, molasses lashed by sherry before a dry, resinous finish. Water brings an oily nuttiness, then further drops produce a silky, clingy texture. Glorious. Miraculous. Victorious. (388 bottles only)

A really stunning grain whisky. So rich for a grain whisky, with no excessive oak. Lipsmacking notes of vanilla cream, coconut custard, ripe banana, sticky toffee pudding, rhum agricole, and delicate honeycomb. The flavors are clean, deep, nicely integrated and complex. Single malt drinkers take note: this whisky will change your opinion of grain whisky forever! (A Park Avenue Liquor exclusive.) 

The formula for this whisky has changed slightly since its inception -- and I think for the better. They've added some Laphroaig into the mix of Caol Ila and Ardmore. This whisky demonstrates the layered complexity that can be achieved by marrying whisky from different distilleries and different regions. I particularly enjoy the rich maltiness and oily texture that provide firm bedding and flavor contrast to the classic Islay notes: tar, boat docks, brine, smoked olive, seaweed, and kiln ash. More subtle cracked peppercorn, mustard seed, and citrus fruit add complexity. Long, warming finish. Amazing how a small change in composition can significantly benefit the overall flavor profile of a whisky.

The nose has honey, caramelized apples, Pixy Stix, pears in cream, faint pepper, ground coriander, and salty driftwood. It’s teeth-coating with golden syrup sugariness, the silky texture meting out pears, apples, sweet barley notes, and crunchy spices, before a vanilla phase gives way to black pepper, licorice, and smoke. Mouth-numbing finish of long-active spices over vanilla. (7,908 bottles)

You don't mess with the Johnnie Walker brand name casually, so we expect greatness, and boy, do we get it here. This has a dusty, smoky nose with dried apricot and grape, and the whisky is gossamer-soft on the palate, with sweet pear and honey evolving on top of an oaky rich heart before a tidal wave of pepper and peat, and a delightful spice smoke and oak conclusion. Magnificent. 

The pinnacle of the current Johnnie Walker range, this is a rare, inimitable blend of just nine whiskies. It exudes the aromas of ripe bananitos, whole mango, satsuma, vanilla seeds, barley awns, butter biscuits, and crystallized pineapple. The supple grain sustains indulgent, characterful malts creating a weighty, smooth mouthfeel. I’m smitten by the vanilla creaminess, burgeoning deep fruit layers, how it swells with a satisfying snuffbox smokiness. A beautifully styled blend delivering a captivating, sensuous experience. (330 bottles only)

An auld alliance renewed, this gorgeous whisky packs spicy aromas of peppercorn, star anise, and cardamom seeds, mingling with toffee squares, plum jam, dunnage earth, and dried sprigs of heather. Rich fruitcake, jellied fruit, and bramble, then spices course through the mouth: chili heat, black pepper, and raw ginger. Final phase has chocolate praline, growing milky, nutty, and soothing. Exceptional lengthy finish with reignited spices. Chivas 18 goes electric. (Travel Retail exclusive)

Single cask Aberfeldy bottlings are very few and far between, and this is a stunner! After hogshead maturation the whisky ultimately underwent a period of finishing in an ex-sherry cask prior to bottling. The nose offers sultanas, raisins, and hot chocolate. Developing vanilla and a hint of over-ripe bananas. Finally, burnt sugar and caramel. Insinuating and syrupy on the palate, with apricots, dried fruits, honey, and sherry. Gently spicy and warming, with licorice in the notably long finish. £115

Cask #3524 is darker, with notes of sticky toffee pudding and chewy caramel that firmly support the polished leather, cigar box, roasted chestnut, smoked seaweed, tar, dark chocolate, and, on the finish, espresso. A meditative whisky. 
Price listed includes entire Double Barrel 1974 Vintage set.

Very spicy and complex, with incredible depth. Once again, this 30-plus year old whisky proves the aging ability of Balvenie. Still quite vibrant and invigorating for such maturity. The classic Balvenie honey note is there, but more reserved, along with graham cracker, vanilla wafer, citrus peel, raspberry (red and black), nectarine, and polished oak. Long, spicy finish. Another outstanding Balvenie Vintage Cask. Although, I look at the price and remember how shocked I was when the Balvenie vintages were selling for $400.

A combination of three sherry butts and seven bourbon casks. This is a complex, dynamic whisky, loaded with lush, layered ripe fruit (red berries, tropical fruit, honeyed apricot, raisin), toffee, oak resin, polished leather, and well-defined spice notes (cinnamon, vanilla, nutmeg, clove). Long, warming finish. (Exclusive to the U.S.) 

Lush, thick fruit and chewy toffee soothes the assertive notes of earthy peat and leafy bonfire. Underlying smoked nuts, brine, kalamata olives, and tobacco provide continued entertainment. A complex whisky that completely envelops the palate. This is an excellent example of a mature, sherried Bowmore. 

I like this Bowmore better than all the previous bourbon oak-aged, ultra-mature Bowmore whiskies that have been released over the past fifteen years (there have been several). The oak is always present, but not dominant. The whisky really evolves on the palate, just like the Black Bowmore releases. This emphasis here is on fruit, bright fruit: peach, tangerine, mango, ripe melon, and pineapple. There’s a soft, gentle side to the whisky, too, enhanced by sweeter notes of pancake syrup, orange creamsicle, and white chocolate. Heavy oak notes emerge, along with teasing, earthy smoke, to give the whisky depth and bottom notes. The smoke and oak linger long on the finish. Very contemplative. In short, an outstanding whisky, but not quite reaching the excellence of Black Bowmore. 
   (Allocation information: 732 bottles available worldwide; 40 bottles are being allocated for the U.S., half of the quantity of Black Bowmore which was released earlier this year.)

The third and most exclusive release in Bowmore’s Vault Legends Collection was matured for 50 years in bourbon hogshead #5675. The nose is fragrant and musky, slightly oily, with orange peel, developing vanilla, and green citrus notes. Intense orange and peach on the palate, with black pepper, aniseed, and sweet oak. Very persistent tangy citrus fruits through the extremely long finish. No negative tannic notes. (74 bottles)

Previous Broras in the Diageo Special Release series have set the bar remarkably high, and this, the eleventh such bottling, does not disappoint. The component whiskies were distilled during 1976 and 1977 and matured in refill American oak casks. The nose offers lemon and contrasting vanilla and honeycomb aromas. Musty malt and coal in the background. The citrus and honey themes continue into the slightly earthy, peppery palate, while French mustard and coal figure in the drying finish. 1,566 bottles.

Just 160 bottles of 1972 Brora are available through UK World of Whiskies and World Duty Free Group stores. The oldest bottling of Brora to date was distilled using heavily-peated malt. A big hit of oily peat on the early nose, with malt, dried fruit, and black pepper. Mildly medicinal. The palate yields bonfire ash, licorice, honey, more pepper, and well-integrated oak. The finish is long, with peat smoke, plain chocolate, and tannins lingering in harmony. Complex and rewarding. £7,000

This is the 13th annual release of Brora, which has been aged in refill American oak and refill European oak casks. Hessian and hemp on the early nose, with a whiff of ozone, discreet peat, and old tar. Fragrant and fruity notes develop, with ripe apples, and a hint of honey. The palate is waxy, sweet, and spicy, with heather and ginger. Mildly medicinal and smoky. Dries steadily in the finish to aniseed, black pepper, dark chocolate, and fruity tannins. (2,964 bottles)

The sixth and last bottling from the Legacy series. Legacy 6 is a marriage of six casks from 1965, 1970, and 1972. Soft and mellow on the nose and palate, with unbelievably restrained oak for such a mature whisky. Delicious notes of coconut, soothing vanilla, caramel custard, and banana cream, peppered with spice notes of cinnamon, mint, and teaberry that emerge on a soft finish that fades out gently. A fitting end to the Legacy series. I’m sad to see them go. 

Bottled to celebrate the 125th Anniversary of the distillery. Classic Bunnahabhain-toffeed and quite nutty. Almost rummy in nature, with rich molasses notes throughout and layers of sweetness. Some salt emerges on occasion, as do notes of honey, coconut, and candied fruit, with a pleasingly dry, gently spicy finish to round everything out. Surprisingly youthful for its age, nicely balanced, and very drinkable. A great Bunnahabhain! 

For the past several years, the Stillman’s Dram expression of The Dalmore has been a 30 year old. This new 28 year old expression, besides being two years younger, is also slightly less sherried. In this instance, I feel that both have enhanced the whisky. Trimming back on the sherry and oak allows the whisky’s trademark orange marmalade, complex spice, and briny freshness to shine through. This one is lively, dynamic, evolving, well-balanced, and always entertaining. The best Dalmore Stillman’s Dram in years. 

Matured entirely in oloroso sherry butts, this whisky is chock-full of lush fruit, roasted nuts, deep spice notes, and a hint of damp smoke. It is wonderfully integrated, with incredible depth and maturity without being tired-and it expresses a soothing quality that doesn’t quit. It is stunning throughout and more polished and rounded than the 1968 Vintage released a while back, which, while enjoyable, was a tad sappy and a bit too oaky at times. This whisky is easily one of the 10 best new whiskies for 2005, and worth every penny. Get a bottle while you can. 

The new ultra-mature release, following its 33 year old predecessor (bottled by previous owners). It’s nice to see the higher ABV, given that the 33 year old was only 40%. Very soothing. Quite deep on the nose and viscous (almost sappy) on the palate, with gobs of juicy oak and old oak (its age is obvious but not imposing), dark raisin, black raspberry, orange marmalade, roasted nuts, and freshly roasted coffee beans. All of this is peppered with cinnamon, ginger, and charcoal. Polished leather on the finish. I like that it’s sherried, and the sherry is kept in balance. Those of you who liked the 33 year old will also enjoy this one (assuming you can afford it).

This is the bomb. Savory and lightly meaty, but sweetened by plum sauce; there’s even some strawberry around the fringes. You could see how with another 30 years this would end up like the ’54. Elegant yet powerful, there’s sandalwood incense, marmalade, even a little dried mango. The distillery’s density is balanced by this fruit. Lush with supple tannins and at its best neat. From a refill butt, this is an exemplary sherried malt. £230

Aged in sherry butts, which is a departure from some of the older Glengoyne vintage samples I have which show more bourbon barrel characteristics. It is a very fruity, spicy, textural dram, with spiced apple, red raspberry, strawberry, plum, golden raisin, fried plantain, and creme brulee. Good grip on the finish, with grape stems and warming spice (cinnamon, cracked peppercorn, and clove). I love the balance on this whisky. It has aged very gracefully. (Limited to 250 bottles worldwide.)

The first bottling of Astar was released in 2008. The 2017 release was matured in casks made of oak from Missouri’s Ozark Mountains. The nose is floral, with rosehips, orange blossom, and milk chocolate-coated Turkish delight. Honey and citrus notes follow. Voluptuous on the palate; sweet, even sugary fresh fruit notes, plus vanilla, cinnamon, and cloves. Drying from coconut to plain chocolate in the lengthy finish. Extremely accomplished. (Individual reviewer rating: 93)

Rummy molasses and toffee sweetness intertwine with roasted nuts and bright, juicy fruit. Suggestions of fig, lavender, leather, and tobacco throughout, with a hint of peat and polished oak on the finish. Not quite as refined as the Highland Park 18 year old, but it makes up for this with its dynamic personality. A delicious ultra-mature, sherry cask-aged whisky. (A Binny’s Beverage Depot exclusive.) 

A delicious, well-balanced, ultra-matured expression of Highland Park. Toffee apples, molasses, and vanilla fudge provide a sweet foundation, with evolving notes of dark chocolate, dry spicy oak, tobacco, subtle smoke, and lingering brine on the finish. Nicely done. (Bottled for Old Oaks Cigar & Wine Company) 

An essay in elegance. Silky and soft in texture, and very clean. Notes of peaches and cream, vanilla wafer, soft honey and fruit gum drops. Subtler notes of tropical fruit (pineapple, lemon, coconut), demerara sugar, heather, and anise. Polished oak adds structure and contrast, with a very elegant finish. Hard to believe this whisky is 32 years old. It's lighter and more elegant than the equally splendid Highland Park 30 year old, which I rated a 94 in the last issue. (Bottled exclusively for Park Avenue Liquors.)

An exemplary Highland Park. There's certainly plenty of sherry influence in this whisky and it is complementary. (About 2/3 of the whisky was aged on sherry casks, and a lot of these casks were second fill.) The whisky enjoys a delicious foundation of toffee, fruit (lemon, plum, blueberries) and dark chocolate. It continues to develop and evolve on the palate, with emerging notes of heather, nougat, lavender, delicate peat and complex dried spice (especially cinnamon and nutmeg) to balance the sweeter notes. The extra alcohol is also a bonus, providing a drying balance to the whisky's sweetness. Whiskies like this one remind me why I fell in love with whisky in the first place.

A marriage of two casks (refill hogsheads). Significantly darker in color than the 1968 vintage. Darker (and more serious) in personality, too. Red berries (strawberry, raspberry), rhubarb, plum, oak sap, vanilla bean, smoldering peat, coffee grounds, toasted almond, and dusty malt. The finish is long and contemplative, with notes of polished leather, juicy oak, and telicherry peppercorns. £3,750

This limited edition bottling consists of a marriage of both European and American oak. Still lively for its age, and beautifully balanced. Bountiful golden fruit (sultana, pineapple upside down cake, tangerine, overripe nectarine) balanced by soothing, creamy vanilla. A peppering of dried spice, chamomile tea, toasted oak, cigar box, and subtle smoke round out the palate. Soft and seductive. (Not available in the U.S.)£2,250

Introduced to the Highland Park portfolio in 1997. Gentle peat, soft toffee, floral notes, and honey on the beautifully fragrant nose.  Superbly balanced on the velvety palate, with brittle toffee, stewed fruits, peat, honey, and a hint of coffee. Smoke and more toffee mingle in the long, elegant finish. 

There’s precious little reticence about this beast, which leaps out of the glass blowing peat smoke everywhere — then comes raffia, Lapsang Souchong tea, seashore, wet rocks, Elastoplast, talcum powder, bog myrtle (laurel), vetiver, and the aromas of a just-expunged peat bonfire with apples baking on it. Huge and complex, in other words.
The palate starts with a fug of smoke being belched at you (non-peat freaks look away, now) then distinct saltiness enlivens the tongue before everything plunges down; intense sweetness takes charge for a moment before it shifts into charred creosoted timbers. 
This begs for some water, and when it’s added, out comes sandalwood and peat smoke and tar and an orris root-like character — it’s not often I get gin-like notes on Lagavulin, but it’s here — which rolls over you as you roll over and succumb to its power. After this year’s sublime distillery-only bottling, it’s clear that Lagavulin is in a real purple patch. Superb. 

This is the 15th Special Releases bottling of Lagavulin 12 year old. Matured in refill American oak hogsheads. The nose is smoky, with kippers, charcuterie, and bonfire embers, offset by berry fruits. On the unctuous palate, smoke blends with vanilla, green apples, and licorice, plus pepper and sea salt. Peppery, ashy peat in the lengthy finish. (Individual reviewer rating: 91)

This is the first time I’ve been up for reviews here so I had a game plan: play it cool, mark tightly, let everyone know I’m hard to please. Then they gave me this, the whisky equivalent to front row tickets to Neil Young on his current Twisted Road tour: not just a chance to get up close and personal with an old favorite, but to do so with an old favorite who’s on fire. Laphroaig’s owners are intent on ensuring a big peaty engine for any new release, but this is a monster by anyone’s standards. It’s essentially Quarter Cask finished in oloroso sherry casks, so in addition to the intense charcoal smoke attack there are rich fruity notes; blackcurrant and berries. It’s an evening barbecue whisky. Grill that fish until it’s blackened and crispy, drizzle on lemon, and as the smoke rears up in protest, sip this. Big, moody, broody, fruity, and rich: what’s not to love? (Travel Retail and some European specialist retailers.) – (Dominic Roskrow)

Another of the Fine Oak series (aged in both bourbon and sherry casks), which will debut in the U.S. in March. Of the five Fine Oak expressions that will be in the U.S. (10, 15, 17, 21, and 30 year old), this is my favorite, slightly besting the 15 year old. Lovely sweet notes (creamy vanilla, light toffee, marshmallow, shortbread, and a kiss of honey) are accompanied by bright fruit (multi-layered citrus) and potpourri of dried spices, along with a hint of nut and wisp of smoke. A very refined and sophisticated whisky. 

Antique amber. The darkest and most decadent of the four. Quite viscous and soothing, with well-layered notes of apple pie, marmalade, and maple syrup balanced by dried fruits, ginger, polished leather, tobacco, and resinous oak. One to sip and savor very slowly. (This whisky is much better than the last ultra-premium release, the Macallan 55 year old in the Lalique Decanter, and thousands of dollars less.)  

Drier than the 12 year old (reviewed below), with some darker fruit (black raspberry, blueberry) marrying with the brighter orchard fruit.  Sweet up front - honey and caramel - with a peppering of spice (dried vanilla, clove, and cinnamon) increasing as the palate develops.  Dry, oak spice finish.  Lovely! 

Well, what have we here? A blend of 50% malt and 50% grain (a very high malt content for a blend), and bottled at 50%, too! The whisky was blended first (very unusual), before being aged in sherry casks for its entire life. Antique amber/chestnut color. Full sherry impact, but never cloying -- the higher alcohol level and grain whisky cut through the sherry and add balance and drinkability. This is a fruity-confection delight, with raisin chutney, fig cake, orange almond scone, and chocolate-covered cherry. Add to the mix richly textured toffee, old oak, polished leather, and a cinnamon-spiced tobacco finish. A rare treat! A great old blend that malt drinkers will embrace.

Jaw-dropping: Aberlour 1973, Bunnahabhain 1968 and 1969, Bowmore 1968, Caperdonich 1972, Glen Grant 1974, Glenfarclas 1966, Glenlivet 1968 and 1970, Highland Park 1967 and 1970, and Macallan 1969. It includes a 14% grain content from Caledonian 1974, Carsebridge 1970, Girvan 1974, Invergordon 1972, Lochside 1966, North of Scotland 1974, and Port Dundas 1973. An elegant, refined mélange of peach, pear, soft oak, and rose cream florals, with dark fruit, chocolate, and fine pepper. Outstanding.

If you want proof that blended malts can be world class, you'll find it in any bottle of Blue Hanger. Lovingly created by Berry Bros. whisky maker Doug McIvor, every release has been exceptional. Even by the series’ own high standards, this sixth release surpasses itself. The nose is fresh, clean, and citrusy, with wafts of sherry. But there are smoky hints, too. And it's that peaty, earthy note on the palate that gives this release a new dimension, enriching the fruity Speyside sweetness at the whisky's core. The age and quality of the malt asserts itself throughout. This really is stunning stuff. £68

Named after the gun rounds fired on Royal anniversaries at the Tower of London. Heightened sherry tones with dark Madagascar chocolate, Brazil nut, fondant cream, and faint espresso indulge the nose. One heavenly sip reveals a velvety smooth whisky, thick and sticky, all revolving around the chocolate and nut, with a little support from dark fruits. You can chew over this for hours as the finish soft-pedals the main themes. A work of genius.

From the nose you can tell this is a special whisky, with old, dark, lacquered wood, dusty cigar box, and sea salt combined with dark sweet cherry and a hint of rancio. On the palate it gets even better, with lush, dark cherry perfectly balanced and integrated with oak spice, salt, and peat smoke. There’s clear rancio in the center of it all that's utterly delicious. This stunner finishes with a long, slightly spicy, and entirely lovely finish. (Park Avenue Liquor only)

An incredibly complex creation using stock from Diageo’s 28 operational single malt distilleries, this has minted toffee, gummy bears, raw gooseberry, fresh whole grain bread, and earthy spices shaken over sweet banoffee pie. Rich fruit, cocoa, granular white chocolate, dark citrus, waxy caramel bars, nutmeg, cinnamon, and bitter dark chocolate. Water stimulates green fruit notes. A beautiful sugared almond note materializes with sweet fudge and dried apple dipped in chocolate. £125

This has long been a core whisky for Compass Box, but the latest version of it is spicier and fresher than I recall, and without doubt, it's my new best friend. Virgin French oak heads help to contribute oriental and aromatic spices on the nose, with hints of melon and pineapple candy sweets. The taste is a delight, with spearmint, soft toffee, sweet citrus fruit, lemonade mixed with beer, and strawberry wafers. An array of spices from cinnamon to chili to ginger dominate the finish.

Without dredging up all the brouhaha over the particulars of the component malts, this exemplary whisky has a balance you could rest on a pinhead. Earthy peats, discarded fish boxes, and crisp bacon rind combine in a smokiness you can really get into, while there is honey sweetness, macadamia nuts, and a bouquet of early summer flowers. It dances upon the tongue, sweet with toasted spices, anchored by dark citrus, and with a telling waxiness to the mouthfeel. Get some.

Recognizably Spice Tree, but it’s richer, more dapper, traveling in style, and wearing better shoes. Peanut brittle, toasted coconut, and pale, light sherry. Honeyed palate with caramelized sugar, red apple, and red berry fruit before the gingersnaps and clove bite. It revs up with another spicy blast for the finish. A tasty fifth Tenth Anniversary bottling from Compass Box; just don’t let yesterday take up too much of today. (12,240 bottles)

Not seen since 2010, this yields vanilla frosting, menthol, spearmint, cream, dry spices, cedarwood, chopped herbs, and a discernable whiff of old grain. Silky taste of butterscotch; it becomes more honeyed, with creamy vanilla, dried banana, malt, and a pinch of cinnamon, pepper, herbs, clove, and eucalyptus. The yin and yang of Glen Elgin and Girvan makes an admirable exercise in precision, minimalist blending. Mad as a box of frogs.

Jim Beveridge delivered these aromas of toffee apple, peach, and rich berry fruits by working with European oak casks. The smoke is timid, with hints of background salinity. The finely structured mouthfeel is where this triple malt whisky truly shines: the polished smoothness is exceptional. The flavor journey begins with honey, citrus, and swirling melted chocolate, building to a fire of squeezed orange oils, dry fruits, and pecan nuttiness before concluding with rich espresso, dark caramels, and plain chocolate. Immaculate.

Bright gold. Amazingly fresh fruits and quince, slowly evolving into mango, blueberry, and a jammy tayberry note. At the same time, exotic spices like cardamom begin to build, particularly when the surface is broken with a drop of water, while vanilla pod notes develop. In the mouth, the grain smooths all the elements, giving an unctuous feel. There’s just sufficient oakiness to give structure and any smoke is far in the distance.  A triumph of the blender’s art. £100,000

Here’s your private audience with the inestimable Mr. Beveridge. After contemplating impeccably selected aged liquids from the big five Distillers Company Limited (DCL) grain distilleries, he’s ready. Three vattings representing cask character, distillery character, and Highland single malt were combined in the final blend. Fresh layers of lemon and honey mingle with wood smoke. A seductive soft and creamy palate, saturated with fudge and delicate vanilla fuse together in a study of honeyed perfection. A fine indulgence. The best yet. (8,888 bottles)

Black Bottle is unique in that it combines seven different Islay whiskies with grain whisky. This produces a whisky with a beautifully rounded Islay character that will satisfy the discriminating “peat-head,” the drinkability of a blended scotch, and plenty of complexity. For a blend, there’s heft to the whisky. I enjoy the interplay between the peat smoke, brine, seaweed, its firm, malty foundation and pleasingly dry finish. 

The last new Chivas release was the 25 year old several years back. To be honest, I didn’t like it as much as Chivas 18 year old. Those extra years contributed an additional dry oak influence which I felt was a bit too dominant—especially on the finish. So you can imagine my concerns before tasting this 38 year old whisky. But this new Royal Salute has something to balance the dry oak that the 25 year old didn’t—lush, rich, sweet sherry notes. It’s quite fruity, with toffee apple, date nut cake, fig, molasses, and golden raisin up front, evolving to dried fruit, pencil shavings, tobacco, and polished leather, with subtle cinnamon and cocoa on the finish. My favorite of the entire Chivas line is the 18 year old (which I rated a 95) for its impeccable balance, but this is still a very impressive whisky!

Aged for a quarter century and finished in Royal Brackla casks? Count me in. The nose is highly attractive; a rich maltiness unfolds with vanilla oak, flapjacks, whole almonds, and gentle background spices. Smooth caramels, chocolate orange, and a cappuccino note create a thick, weighty blend that melts gracefully into pools of darker chocolate. The mouth-coating finish has plain chocolate, dry oak, and coffee. Brilliant liquid: smoothness personified.

Straw-gold color. On the nose, sweet toffee, citrus notes, seaweed, and spice complement a powerful peat smoke infusion. In body, it is thick and oily. On the palate, a somewhat sweet maltiness up front is run over by a powerful peat smoke locomotive. Again, the whisky is enriched with citrus and pear notes, spice, and seaweed. The finish is powerful, long, and warming. The smoke lingers for minutes, if not hours. If you like your Ardbeg to go to a phenolic extreme, you will cherish this one. This big, powerful whisky makes no apologies for its Islay roots. And the fact that this whisky is bottled at 46% ABV just makes this big whisky even bigger.

Ardbeg's first standard release in nearly a decade, An Oa is matured in virgin oak, Pedro Ximénez, and bourbon barrels, with component whiskies married in the distillery's French oak 'Gathering Vat.' The nose offers sweet peat, smoky lemon rind, ginger, and angelica. A soft and sweet palate entry is followed by hot peat, black tea, peppery cloves, and aniseed. Black pepper lingers through the long, smoky finish.

The newest offering from the impressive Balvenie vintage cask line. Honey, caramel custard, and Seville orange notes, with evolving -- and increasingly noticeable -- dried spice, oak resin, and leather that integrates well with the sweet, fruity notes. Incredible depth and complexity. The Balvenie vintage reputation remains intact.

The last Balvenie Vintage whisky I tasted that was this old was the exceptional 1966 Vintage. This new vintage has some big shoes (or should I say bottles?) to fill, so how does it stand up to the 1966 Vintage? This 1973 Vintage is equally as impressive. In contrast to the massive, evolving, sherry-influenced 30 year old reviewed below, this one shows more subtlety and finesse. It is also a very clean and polished affair-signs of an obviously excellent cask. A honeyed, malty foundation incorporates notes of dried fruit (orange, lemon), complex spice (vanilla, cinnamon, sandalwood), and subtle herbs. Very contemplative. 

Deep amber color. Exotic aromas of honey, vanilla, and tropical fruit (coconut, pineapple, mango). Medium to full in body, and rich in texture. The palate delivers what the aroma promises-honey, vanilla, and more tropical fruit, with a somewhat dry and rather lengthy finish. The Balvenie distillery enjoys an excellent reputation. The older expressions are particularly noteworthy. They age very gracefully. This one is a pure joy to drink. 

Aged in a European oak oloroso sherry hogshead. Orange marmalade and lanolin on the nose, with caramel and candle wax dripped onto old leather. Full-bodied, with slightly bitter orange notes, plus nutmeg and aniseed on the palate. The orange theme persists into the finish as dried-out Jaffa segments, plus edgy oak tannins. A highly individualistic Balvenie.

No frills here, just pure, unadulterated Bowmore. This Islay whisky speaks of its location in a very pure and natural way. I find invigorating brine, seaweed, green olive, and fishnets, along with the classic Bowmore peat smoke. All these flavors are softened by gentle vanilla and honeyed malt, while background tropical fruit add complexity. 

Bowmore lovers rarely get excited about the smokiness of their favorite single malt. Rather, they obsess about the tropical fruits that some old bottlings exhibit. Here is one such example. Initially the nose suggests verjus and linseed oil, but then peachiness rather than beachiness emerges. The smoke hits first on the tongue, backed up with mango and violet, then the tropical elements and the smoke play off each other up until a guava-laden finish. £120

An old Special Releases favorite, this is the fourteenth such Brora bottling. Distilled in 1977 and matured in refill American oak hogsheads, it is the oldest Brora issued by Diageo to date. 2,976 bottles have been released. Leather, ginger, and stewed fruits on the nose, with smoky, dusty aromas. Lighter and fresher than previous veteran releases, with cooking apples, cinnamon, fudge, dried grass, and light peat on the palate. Sweet notes fade, leaving earthy, savory smoke in the long finish.

Another Special Releases staple, this is the fifteenth and oldest Brora in the series to date. The nose offers hemp, oiled brown paper, lemon juice, ashy peat, and sweetening malt. The oily palate boasts sweet fruit notes, peaty toffee, and ginger. Long in the softly smoky finish, with black pepper, plain chocolate, char, and licorice. Diageo Special Releases 2016. (2,984 bottles)

Distilled in 1982, this expression was matured in refill American oak hogsheads. It is the 16th Brora in the Special Releases series. Ripe pears and vanilla on the nose; progressively more perfumed, with developing toffee notes. Slightly waxy on the palate, with fresh-squeezed lemon and sweet background smoke contrasting with spicy dark berries. Plain chocolate, sultanas, and raisins in the medium-length finish. A relatively restrained Brora. (3,000 bottles)

This gem is soft and seductive in personality. It is also very clean and still quite fresh for its age-obviously aged in an excellent cask. You'll find a bed of gentle sweetness, reminding me of coconut cream and vanilla mousse. A mélange of fruit (melon, black raspberries, strawberries) marries perfectly with the sweetness. Fresh brine notes and licorice root emerge on the palate and become more prominent towards the finish. This Legacy III is more polished and rounded, and not as tired or woody when compared to the recent 40 year old bottling. And the 40 year old, at $2,200 a pop, is also about five times more expensive.

This 32 year old bottling was aged in twelve bourbon barrels and re-casked into fresh bourbon wood in 2009. It offers a nose of canned peaches, dates, marzipan, and a hint of milky coffee. Rich fruit flavors lead on the palate: peach, pineapple, and mango, with vanilla and nutty oak. Slowly drying in the finish, with warming spices. Sometimes good bourbon casks are all you need. (3,000 bottles)

Deep gold color. Fresh, exciting, spicy aroma of brine, exotic pepper, seaweed, and raw fruit, with interwoven notes of delicate peat and caramel. Full-bodied and muscular. Flavors are incredibly vibrant and dynamic-almost challenging-and are similar to its aroma. Salty, peppery, intense finish. 

Style: Speyside single malt scotch Color: Shimmering gold Aroma: Very complex, with a potpourri of spicy, herbal notes. There’s a lot going on here. Nice depth too. Palate: Similar to its aroma, nicely balanced, and evolving. Lingering, spicy finish. 

Bottled for Friends of the Classic Malts (which means most of you), this is Cragganmore in early autumnal guise. Dry leaves underfoot, ripe black fruits on the bushes, waxed jacket, chestnut, and a whiff of cedary smoke, opening into dried peach. The palate is thickly textured, with those fruits, dark chocolate, and pomegranate molasses. The immensely long finish gives you light pepper, smoke, and blackberry jam. Cragganmore at its very best, and at a great price. £80

A thick, lush whisky. Notes of honey-drenched citrus, orange marmalade, chewy toffee and almonds, peppered with that classic coastal brine freshness and background spice I have come to love in Dalmore. Long, contemplative finish. This whisky packs plenty of freshness and liveliness for 30 years on oak and is a pure joy to drink. 

By far the softest and gentlest of the range, and oh so drinkable. Hard to believe that this whisky is 40 years old, actually, as it shows no sign of excessive oak. Instead, there are soothing layers of caramel and toffee as the whisky’s foundation. Add orange marmalade and other juicy citrus fruits, cinnamon spice, graham cracker, and lightly toasted almond. A gentle, subtly sophisticated Dalmore, and an interesting comparison to the much different, more visceral 50 year old. If I were a rich man, I could drink this whisky every day -- it’s so easy-going.

This 1978 vintage release from The Dalmore has been ‘finished’ for two years in Matusalem sherry casks from Gonzalez Byass, following 29 years in American white oak. Just 477 bottles are available. Freshly-ground coffee, marzipan, dark berries, and rich sherry on the smooth nose, with milk chocolate and Jaffa oranges. Smokier with water. Citrus fruits and more milk chocolate on the rich, full palate, plus roasted almonds. Long and juicy in the finish, with aniseed and fruit pastilles. 

This veteran Dalmore was matured successively in bourbon casks, Matusalem oloroso sherry casks, colheita port pipes, more bourbon wood, and finally, Champagne casks. The nose offers orange marmalade, vanilla, milk chocolate, maraschino cherries, white pepper, and a hint of black treacle. Sweet sherry and sultanas on the early palate, with developing prunes and licorice. The finish is extremely long, with increasing licorice, plain chocolate, wood spice, and tannic oak. (50 bottles)

Deeper, richer, more viscous, and more intriguing than the 12 year old (and not as sappy as the 18 year old). Complex and intriguing, with raisin, orange marmalade, grape skin, sugar plum, cinnamon bun, raspberry preserve, mixed nuts, and coal ash. Nice tannic grip on the finish. The best of the bunch, and very impressive!

Part of the core range from GlenDronach, Parliament has been aged in a mix of oloroso and Pedro Ximenez sherry casks and is non-chill filtered. Quite sweet sherry on the nose, with fresh leather, nutty peach notes, cloves, and pepper. Rich sherried fruits on the full palate, with more pepper, ginger, and plain chocolate. The finish is long, with licorice and oak tannins. Not to be rushed!

A triumphant expression including whisky distilled in 1990, 1992, and 1993 and matured in Spanish oak sherry butts. The nose offers creamy sweet sherry, figs, a hint of black treacle, cinnamon, and ripe cherries. The full palate yields sultanas, tangy citrus fruit, sweet oak, roasted chestnuts, and ginger. Lingering bright fruit notes in the finish, with raisins, plain chocolate, and cigar boxes. (1,487 bottles)

Dark amber in hue, this shows immediate mature elegance with great sweetness — think of spiced honey or mead. There are some light notes of pecan pie and all the while that thread of the sod. Glenfarclas can never fully escape its dark roots. There’s dried peach and fruit leather, toffee, and, with water, biscuits dunked in tea. The palate is autumnal and soft — fruit compote and peppermint. This is what you want from fully mature Glenfarclas at its peak. (A U.S. exclusive). 

The hits just keep on coming for Glenfarclas. Here we see it not only with enormous age but in relaxed mode in terms of oak. You can tell it’s old: the leathery waxiness and exotic fruits of whisky rancio; you can tell it’s Glenfarclas because of the ever-present earthiness, but both are intensified into a new aromatic realm: gentlemen’s barbershop, rowan berry, and images of an old bonfire next to a gingerbread house. Mysterious, subtle, and highly complex. £5,995

An impressive single cask bottling of Glenfiddich. It really shows the natural potential of this distillery. Nothing fancy here, just the pure elegance of Glenfiddich. Notes of shortbread, demerara sugar, and white chocolate, spiced with toasted nuts, cinnamon, ginger, and nutmeg. Very clean and polished. 

The fifth in a series of Glenlivet Cellar Collection whiskies. This is a very complex whisky, with exotic notes of oak, sultana, vanilla cream, almonds, and evergreen. These notes are quite floral on the nose and well balanced, with no hint of excessive aging. The palate is polished, deep, and continuously evolving, with a long spicy finish. The oak notes reveal that this whisky has some years on it, but they in no way dominate or detract from the other flavors. An outstanding effort! This rivals the 1959 vintages as the best of the Cellar Collection releases. You’ll need deep pockets, though. 

Amber chestnut color. Aromas of mature oak, leather, ripe fruit, and toffee, are very deep and well balanced. Its flavors are rich and enveloping, with notes of treacle, toffee, roasted nuts, and a long, spicy, woody finish that lingers. 

Finished in first-fill sherry casks for two years. My feeling on any whisky finished in a different cask is this: it should give as much to the flavor profile as it takes away. In this instance, I feel it has, and more. It’s not as nimble as younger versions, but the sherry, along with the extra aging, contributes a silky texture and a richer, fuller dimension to the whisky. I can still detect some of the peach, vanilla, tropical fruit, and honeyed malt I enjoy in younger expressions, but its key flavor components are toffee, honey-dipped citrus, red licorice, chocolate-covered almonds, and fig, along with dried spice (cinnamon, nutmeg, mint tea) that emerges on the palate and peaks on the finish. The flavors are seamless and elegantly balanced.

Fresh, vibrant, and beautifully complex. A clean, malty foundation accentuated by bright complex fruit, delicate spice, dried flowers, and gentle honeyed vanilla notes that linger on the palate. This is a wonderful whisky which is very versatile, but I can only imagine what it would taste like at 46% and unchill-filtered like the wood finish expressions.

Astar’s flavor profile is similar to Glenmorangie 10 year old in many respects, showing a superb balance of sweetness, fruit, and spice. It’s not as subtle as the 10 year old expression, but it is creamier, richer, and fleshier, with loads of honeyed vanilla, coconut cream pie, toasted almond, vibrant spice (cinnamon, mint), and a basketful of citrus and summer fruits. The fact that it is bottled at 100 British Proof (57.1% abv) just accentuates every flavor and helps to make this whisky quite invigorating. Imagine Glenmorangie 10 year old with a shot of testosterone. I don’t rate very many ten year old (or younger ) whiskies over 90. This whisky has certainly earned it. 

Glenmorangie Pride employs the use of Sauternes barriques to give a 10 year period of secondary maturation to a batch of spirit distilled in 1981. The result is a whisky with an intense, pungent, earthy nose; very complex, with polished old furniture notes, spices, oak tannins, and licorice. The palate is ‘full on’ for a Glenmorangie; waxy, with sherbet, honey, and baked apple, then orange marmalade, sultana, and a hint of smoke in the lengthy finish. Available July 1, 2011. Price is approximate.  

A polished, very elegant expression with subtle complexity throughout. Notes of squeaky-clean fruit (tangerine, peach, nectarine, kiwi) in light syrup. Vibrant spice (cinnamon, white pepper, anise), creamy vanilla, and almond evolve on the palate, leading to a gentle finish. Surprisingly lively for a whisky more than 30 years old. When I think of great Glenrothes vintages, I go back to the 1972 vintage for comparison. Both are comparable in quality, with the 1972 vintage showing darker sugars, more weight, and more roasted nuts. 

Made from whisky aged in second fill American oak sherry casks, distilled between 1973 to 1987. Richly malty, with honeyed citrus, juicy oak, chocolate fudge, and nougat. More subtle floral notes, licorice (red and black), ginger, and chamomile tea. Polished oak on the finish balances the sweetness. A great whisky to honor a great whisky maker! (Only 200 bottles for the U.S.)

Very sophisticated and subtly complex. Perhaps the lightest-colored of the bunch. Fresh, appetizing brine and spice (cinnamon, vanilla, white pepper, and clove) on a bed of soft honey and creamy vanilla, with just a hint of fruit. The notes are bright, clean, and tight. Spicy, briny finish. A beautifully delicate Highland Park. (Bottled for Green’s) 

The good news: This is one of the best Highland Park whiskies I have ever tasted. The bad news: it’s the new release for Travel Retail (formerly Duty Free). It’s lush, well-balanced, and very complex. Well-defined notes of toffee, candied fruit, and roasted nuts are accentuated by background honey, chocolate mousse, and smoke. Here’s the icing on the cake: it’s bottled at 47.5%, which really allows the flavors to shine. If you’re going overseas, consider tracking down a bottle. 

Antique copper color, with some streaks of gold. A complex array of dried fruit on the nose, peppered with dried spice, orange marmalade, dark chocolate, and wood shavings. On the palate, the immediate impact is once again marmalade, followed briefly by bramble before drier notes of dark chocolate, wood shavings, anise, and subtle smoke emerge. Dry and spicy on the finish, but never austere. A delicious, contemplative 40 year old Highland Park that has aged gracefully.

This is a permanent addition to the range. Out of curiosity, I tasted it next to the other great Highland Parks (the 30 year old and several very good single cask bottlings over 30 years old). This whisky is in the same league as the others. Its only down side is that it’s a lot more expensive than the others.

A marriage of eight casks (seven hogsheads, one sherry butt). A whisky in excellent shape for its age. Very clean and bright on the palate, with no excessive oak. Notes of lemon tart, clementine, plum, honeyed vanilla, and polished oak, peppered with clove, soft mint, marshmallow, and subtle toasted coconut. Clinging, mouth-coating finish.  £2,250

An extremely limited edition issued at last year’s Islay Jazz Fest, this was chosen by warehouseman Iain McArthur as a prime example of a ‘bodega’ sherry butt (see page XX for more on the ‘bodega’ process). It is, simply, massive, with concentrated soy/balsamic notes combining with hot embers, burning rosemary, fig, coffee, and candied peels. The smokiness is unrestrained on the tongue; all soot, earth, and a rolling wave of deep, pimento-accented meatiness leading to a kippery finish. Magnificent.  (Available only at the distillery)£80    

A sherry-cask Lagavulin, this immediately shows a rich, mellow power with a touch of potter’s wheel, but it needs water to bring out sandalwood, beach bonfire, kombu, Lapsang Souchong, and bog myrtle. The palate is where it shows itself fully; resinous and thick, unctuous even, with that scented pine/juniper tea note shifting into paprika-rubbed ham, membrillo, currants, blackberry. I’ve a feeling that this period will be seen as Lagavulin’s golden age. £99

This cask strength, sherry cask matured expression was released as part of Lagavulin’s bicentennial celebration. The nose offers new leather, tropical fruits, brittle toffee, and brine, backed by spicy peat smoke. Smoky sherry notes open up in time. The rich, well-mannered palate boasts sweet peat, brine, muted sherry, figs, gentle spices, tangerines, and lemons. Becoming more savory in the long, gently smoky, malty finish. Very drinkable at cask strength. A great Lagavulin. (8,000 bottles)

Gold color. Peaty, smoky, mature aromas, with notes of damp earth, pencil shavings, seaweed, brine, and vanilla. Oily, viscous body. Flavors are similar to its aroma, with a spicy, salty, black pepper, dryish finish. 

Straw/honey color. Light to medium weight, with a slightly oily texture. Shy on the nose, but makes up for it on the finish. Fresh brine, toasted coconut, bright citrus fruit, and subtle mint on a bed of vanilla cream and honeyed malt. The peat smoke is restrained on the nose, but is more assertive on the palate, and it really kicks in on the finish, which is briny, smoky, appetizing, and long. The best Longrow since the 1974 vintage. If it would only just open up a little more on the nose it would challenge the best from ‘73 and ‘74. (Only 120 bottles for the U.S.)

Amber-chestnut color. Aromas are very mature and so thick, one almost needs a knife to cut it. Notes of dried fruit (orange, lemons, pineapple) and wood spices (especially clove), with more than a suggestion of peat smoke. Thick, enveloping texture-like a warm coat on a bitterly cold day. Very mature. One can easily deduce this is a very old whisky-the woodiness is evident on the palate. But it is not in excess. There’s plenty of dried fruit, enticing wood spices, and peat to keep the palate entertained, all the way through to its very long, dry finish. 

Full-flavored, confident, and very dynamic. Bright fruit, teasing toffee, complex spices, cereal grain, and underlying light leather notes are all tightly integrated. Think an 11 year old whisky can’t be mature or complex? Think again! A Speyside powerhouse! (Available in the Chicago area.) 

Deep amber in color with the green glints of first-fill sherry, this has bosky notes and meat—mutton and venison—plus graphite, bitter chocolate, and wet rock before layers of dried stone fruits and date. This is the most savory and Bovril-like of the new range. The palate is feral and earthy; think mushroom with game pie, and rowan berries. Deep, but with more dimensions than the previous 16 year old which, in comparison, seems like a blunt instrument. £180/500 ml

Port Ellen whiskies are just going to keep getting rarer and more expensive. This old-fashioned whisky is beginning to show its age, but is still holding up nicely. It’s clean, with no excessive oak, and a soft, sweet maltiness for balance. Earthy and rooty at times, with tarry rope, beach pebbles, leafy smoke, bourbon barrel char, black licorice, lemon peel, and hints of shellfish and diesel fumes (like following a boat in the ocean). Long, smoky, lightly briny finish.

Now the one that peat freaks wait patiently for every year, which makes it the bottling that produces the most debate. For me, this is up there with last year’s bottling, which itself ushered in a return to high standards after a slight dropping-off in expressiveness.
This is different, however. Yes, the color is as pale as ever — has anyone ever tasted an over-oaked Port Ellen? — and yes, the nose initially shows all of the distillery’s austere notes: think of a wet fish counter and the sensation of the sea rather than overt ‘fishiness,’ while there’s also a chilled cucumber note. The difference is the sweetness, which is more to the fore, and also, it would seem, a slight dropping-off in massive smokiness. Here the peat is integrated into the whole.
The palate has a numb spot right on the front, then wasabi-like heat coupled with olive oil. Soon the sea rolls in and it stands there like some creature from the Black Lagoon covered with balls of tar, draped in wet seaweed, encrusted with barnacles and clams — and clutching a kipper. But don’t forget the sweetness that spreads across the tongue and slowly drifts into fresh spice and antiseptic. Complex…and there’s a scant 3,000 bottled for the globe. [not available in the U.S.] £280

Scarcity and the secondary market have driven prices up, so either buddy-up to a rich guy, or club together to try this. Greater levels of cask interaction have added an extra dimension to a whisky that is often skeletal. The smoke’s in the background, as salted cashew, peppermint, tansy, furniture polish, and smoked meats take center stage. The palate is slowly expanding and smoked, with some chocolate and wax. Finally, a Port Ellen that is truly, classically mature. A killer. (2,964 bottles)

The sixteenth Special Releases Port Ellen is the oldest to date. Initially, sea breeze on the nose, brine, rock pools, and gentle iodine, followed by dried fruits, peat, and wood polish. Full-bodied, very silky, again with brine to the fore, plus sweet peat, drying slowly, ginger, black pepper, and balancing tropical fruit notes. The finish is long, with burnt oak embers and licorice. Diageo Special Releases 2016. (2,900 bottles)

This 1979 vintage is the 17th Special Releases Port Ellen. It has been aged in refill American oak hogsheads and butts. The nose offers fresh-mown grass, ripe pears, and damp tweed, before smoked fish and bonfire aromas emerge. The oily palate features spicy peat, barbecued meat, and peaches in syrup. Very long in the finish; smoky and earthy, with a hint of chili and mouth-drying tannins. (2,988 bottles)

Antique amber color. Mature complex aromas-especially in wood spice notes. In addition to wood spices, I also found notes of roasted nuts, coconuts, orange marmalade, anise, and subtle brine. Thick and syrupy in texture, with complex flavors that echo its aroma. The depth on the palate is incredible! Long lingering finish. 

Antique amber color. Ripe, fallen fruit aromas laced with coconut, marshmallow, and almonds. The sherry cask influence is very prominent on the nose, but the Springbank "brine" character still manages to fight through. Full bodied, with a soothing texture. Huge flavors with great balance and depth, consisting of exotic fruits, complex wood spices, brine, and coconut. Long, lingering satisfying finish. 

Aromatically fruity and quite full, with wonderful depth on the nose and palate. The fruit (golden raisins, apricot, red licorice, papaya) is balanced by restrained honey, vanilla, and fennel. The whisky is always dry but never excessively so. A delicious, ultra-mature whisky. 

Surprisingly clean and youthful for a 30 year old, both on the nose and palate. Complex, too, with a sea breeze freshness, vanilla malt, polished oak spice, smoked seaweed, lightly tarred boat docks, toasted nuts, and lingering telicherry pepper. Mature, yet still quite powerful. Rivals the original Talisker 25 year old and the Talisker 18 year old as one of the finest Talisker whiskies ever released. 

A sophisticated and refined Talisker, if that’s not an oxymoron. But this is certainly true when compared to the 10 year old. This 18 year old is deeper too, with less of the fishnets, more of oak boat docks. Less lemongrass, more fruit gum drops. There’s still that knock-out punch on the finish. There’s a fine line between polishing the rough edges of a beautifully powerful whisky and ripping its heart and soul out with a knife by dumbing it down. This whisky has not crossed that line. A fabulous whisky! 

TLD’s sixth release captivates with dark caramel, Brazil nut, polished oak, cacao, scorched earth, grilled field mushroom, and roasted coffee bean aromas. To sip is to submit to a discombobulating whirl of cherry and jellied black fruits replete with old sherry characteristics, replaced by an unctuous, oily base, torn asunder by seething spices of clove, pepper, and star anise. Ever-changing. Muted exit of dulled spice, browning apple, and eucalyptus. (898 bottles)

It’s like someone just turned up the volume on flavor. Cherry fudge, marshmallow, vanilla pod, ristretto, luscious caramel, almond-topped Dundee cake, and wood spices. Dark, oily, and muscular, with burnished orange, clove, licorice, and burnt char. Sweetness brims over the tongue with apple, pear,
and malted barley as it softens to a beautiful velvety texture. This whisky’s great journey
is over. The baked apricot instigates an eternal finish (1,352 bottles, 300 for the U.S.)

Well-structured and masculine with its rich malty backbone and mouth-coating fruit. Yet, there’s a silky, seductive underbelly that’s very compelling. Notes of sultana, honey-drenched mandarin, ripe peach, thick toffee, and anise, with a peppering of spice throughout, especially toward the finish, where a hint of smoke emerges. The grain whisky enhances the blend’s allure by cutting through the whisky’s viscosity, making it very more-ish. I love the combination of drinkability, flavor, complexity, and balance in this blend. Very versatile. Single malt drinkers will thoroughly enjoy this experience. (Note: at this time, this whisky is not sold in the U.S.)

There has been an excellent streak of Islay blended malts recently, and here is another worthy contender from the Spencerfield Spirit Company. This one offers the sizzle of bacon fat, thick clods of peat, cocoa, and breezy smoke. The rounded palate has sweet satsuma, spice, generous malty notes, and burnt caramel. The wafting smoke builds until it engulfs the back of the palate. You will be wanting one of these.

Distilled in 1988 and finished for an unspecified period in port casks after lengthy maturation in bourbon barrels. Floral, perfumed, and very enticing on the nose. Vanilla fudge, cocktail cherries, polished oak, and gentle spices. Soft and sweet on the palate, with vanilla, overripe orange, cinnamon, and milky coffee. Long and slightly peppery on the finish, with persistent drying fruitiness. Complex and extremely accomplished.

OK, confession time. This remains one of my favorite whiskies ever, a classic example of what long, slow aging in a refill cask can do for a whisky — increase its unctuous nature, bring out butterscotch, ginseng, honey, deepen the orchard fruits, and release a dazzling spiciness on the tongue. It has balance, it has finesse, and there’s not much left. £155(Not available in the U.S.)

That rarely-spotted beast Dailuaine gets the Special Release treatment. This example has come from refill American oak and has immediate marzipan notes on top of the distillery’s fascinating mix of meaty density and sweetness. In time there are fat fruits, Victoria plum, bitter citrus, faded green leafiness, and chocolate notes. The palate is ripe, rich, and profound, with a hint of tropical fruits cut with cacao. Long, elegant, and complex, this is the best of this year’s bunch for me.

Launched a few years ago with a Dr. Haddock-like cartoon figure on the label, Big Peat does just what it suggests it does…and then some. It's a mix of Islay peated malts and includes some Port Ellen, but don't get distracted by that. Instead, indulge yourself in the biggest, peatiest, oiliest, earthiest, grungiest, gunkiest slab of industrial malt this side of a leaky steam engine. This whisky just gets better and better.

Peat has grown up to become the best version of himself that he can be. The mellow, sweet smoke makes all your cares drift away. It’s like walking on an Islay beach through seaweed stranded at the high-tide mark. Lemon lozenges, Sweethearts, flashes of citrus, stewed apple, and growing smoke. The gentle, glossy, mouth-coating finish generates an urge to expertly puff smoke rings out through pursed lips. (300 bottles) £175

Sherry cask matured in its entirety, this rich, southern Highland beauty exudes a perfume of deep orange, sweet cherry, plum, nutty fruitcake, and pleasant oak. Beautifully balanced, it showcases sweet orange, red fruits, baked Victoria plum, and brown sugar, while ginger and pepper sparkle across the tongue. Honey and stewed fruits mollify the throat. An absolute joy.

This has the poise and physique of a classic sherried Macallan. Hazelnut, mixed peel, peach cobbler, and wood spices form a delightful olfactory combination. Warm, weighty sherry notes bathe the mouth with ginger loaf, milk chocolate chunks, and espresso in support, lilting toward a lip-smacking finish of peach melba and amontillado sherry. It’s increasingly rare to find a top-quality aged independent Macallan, so don’t miss out.

Containing some precious closed distillery stocks, this feels like the height of luxury with its aromas of clove-studded oranges, cinnamon sticks, rich chocolate, and caramels. It’s slick and mouth-coating, emitting flavors of butter toffee, orange, and melted chocolate, with a nibble of ginger sponge, Jaffa cakes, and clove. It’s smooth and impeccably well mannered. (Global Travel Retail only)

You little beauty! Maple syrup, pecan, sliced peach, and vanilla-laden bread-and-butter pudding. Soft baked-apple tart, smooth sticky toffee pudding, red apples, oozing with caramels and a fine layer of spice. The mouthfeel is silky, rounded, and effortlessly elegant. Finish of walnut, clove, and marron glacé. Douglas Laing has brought out some amazing grains lately, but this is better than ever. (K&L Wines exclusive, 233 bottles

Exclusive Malts doesn't disclose the source distillery, which doesn't matter when you’ve got a whisky that’s a gem. Apple cider defines the nose and is complemented by ginger and iris. On the palate this whisky is lush but well balanced, with honeyed apple cider, gingerbread cookie, and baked apple. In the center of all this is rancio. Ginger spice and baked apple define the finish, which is long and flavorful. Great balance, integration, and flavor. What more can you ask for? (U.S. only)

You are missing a trick if you don’t snap up these small batch blended malts when you see them. Savory beef juices, black fruits, particularly black currant, loose Keemun tea, and dense oak characteristics. Sweet baked orange with notable alcohols initially, then tangy with caramelized brown sugar, butterscotch, dark rum, Brazil nut, pepper, cacao, and black currant puree. With water, it tastes deliciously of chocolate. A serious heavyweight whisky.

This grand old Highlander brings warm flapjacks baked with golden syrup, nutmeg, oak spices, toffee brittle, toasted muffin, cinnamon sticks, and beeswax polish. The oat breakfast cereals and caramel beckon in a fruit explosion of mango, burnt orange, raspberry, banana chips, and papaya. Rejoice in that dense, ever-changing satin mouthfeel, with Invergordon’s grain character only more apparent toward the end. Soft spice underplayed on a dry finish. An enchanting find.

This single cask, distilled at Highland Park, is an excellent example of why distilleries sell off certain casks. On the nose it’s Highland Park's signature sherry and peat, but on the palate it's a beast. Monster peat smoke surfs on a lush layer of berry and malt. This builds to a peak with smoke, salt, and oak spice, bolstered by the high proof. A smoky, dry finish rounds off a monster whisky, different from Highland Park's style, but very interesting. (Julio’s Liquors only)

Full gold. Weighty, but not oppressed by wood. Full, rich rancio aroma, which brings to mind an ancient cognac. It is rich and powerful, but has great finesse and perfect balance: cooked fruit, some spice, a lot of waxiness, licorice…and then the distillery’s signature meatiness. The palate starts sweetly with ripe old autumn fruits, and soft tannins. This has everything you want from a mature whisky, and from Mortlach, with added elegance. Highly recommended. £198

Balanced Islay whiskies combine peat smoke characteristics with a sweet foundation. They’re not one-dimensionally smoky. This whisky is an excellent example. This is a peat-laden whisky with refinement and grace. Creamy vanilla, caramel, and honey harmoniously marry with persistent -- yet controlled -- peat smoke. Crisp spice notes and dancing fruit throughout adds complexity. Well done.

(Exclusive to Park Ave. Liquors, New York, NY) This is a vatting of two single malts: the malty and sometimes smoky Ardmore and the always smoky and spicy Caol Ila. The whisky expresses smartly complex aromas of smoky bonfire smothered with peat, with notes of tar, olives, freshly ground pepper, and seaweed. A sweet maltiness (from the Ardmore?) binds the flavors together. On the palate, the whisky begins sweet, then the powerful peat smoke emerges, yielding to olives, peppery spices, and seaweed. The finish is long and powerful with the peat smoke again emerging and lingering on seemingly forever. A monster indeed. This whisky’s complexity demonstrates the virtues of vatting. Many smoky whiskies have nothing else going on behind the cloak of smoke. This one does.

Compass Box Whiskies celebrates the fifth anniversary of The Peat Monster by thinking big: bigger intensity, put into a bigger bottle. This bold whisky is packed with Islay and coastal character, showing tarry rope, brine, and a hint of seaweed, along with teasing smoked olive, anise, and mustard seed. There is some civility to the whisky: sweeter notes of vanilla wafer, baked apple, ripe peach, and cream attempt to soften the blow. Smoke and tar on the finish. Nicely done. (Price is per 1.75L.) 

In my book, the bar can't be set much higher than it is for Flaming Heart and this latest version doesn't disappoint, though it does head off into a scuzzier, grittier, and more peaty direction than the 10th anniversary bottling, and has lost some of the black currant fruitiness in the process. No matter: this smolders with peaty and fishy intensity, works its way round to tinned strawberries, damson, and berry fruits, and emerges sooty and smoky. A BIG whisky.

Peat Monster is a staple Compass Box blended malt whisky, but this raises the bar significantly. The nose is “as you were”: peat reek, seaside, very Islay. But on the palate John Glaser's added some peaty Highland whisky—probably a signature Clynelish—to add a hint of licorice, a softer, fruitier smoke base, and through some virgin French oak, a delightful spiciness. Compass Box is in a purple patch. Again.

The original Great King Street blend was all sweet lemon and spice. This is something else again. This is a gutsy, urban wise guy of a whisky, rich in peat, with distinctive malty flavors—all in all, closer to a malt than a blend. That's because of the high malt content, and only the rounded edges and soft finish are gilded by grain. Some fruit and spice emerge through the peat, but the smoke's what you remember—a master class in blending.

This surrealist Compass Box whisky mimics the dimensional challenges of Magritte’s “Ceci n’est pas une pipe” by raising questions about the luxury pretensions of whisky. Is it the expense? Packaging? Good taste? Masquerading behind a green apple, a bowler-hatted John Glaser smiles enigmatically. Sultanas, charcoal smoke, toffee, chocolate, sea salt, and warm sherry tones. The alcohol rides with dense black cherry, cacao nibs, Colombian coffee, and dark fruits. Trails of smoking fruitcake finish the experience. Above all, buy and consume. (4,992 bottles)

Ringmaster John Glaser’s latest Big Top attraction: the nose juggles dark marmalade, almonds, sweet sherry, dates, and dried pineapple. Flavors swing like a trapeze between deep orange, dried tropical fruits, nuts, and chocolate, with the silky composure of a seal balancing a ball on its nose. Ridiculously smooth; if you’re looking for burn, try fire eating instead. Knife throwers accurately pinpoint the finish: fruit, (thud) chocolate (thud), spice (THUD). In this manner, Mr. G. will challenge the world! (2,490 bottles)

Peatheads, listen up! Yes, there’s pine needles, zested lemons, honey, sanded wood, nutmeg, and cinnamon within this Islay-dominated blend, but it’s the billowing peat smoke that makes this special. It reeks gloriously of stacked fish boxes and heavy braided ropes on the pier. The dark fruit, baked lemons, cherry, clove, and cooked plum face entanglement in a labyrinth of shadowy stygian smoke. You could get lost in here for hours. (15,000 bottles)

How time flies! This eloquent blended grain marks CBWC’s 15th anniversary and the combination of these aged grains is idiosyncratic of whisky auteur John Glaser’s distinctive taste. Rich honey, apricot stone, crisp spices, vanilla custard, gentle oak char, and tropical fruits promise a real reward. Succulently juicy, with melon, apple, and caramel, subtly paced, with chocolate and dark fruit infiltrating. Slowly the sweetness depletes to black pepper and spiced roast meats. Defer swallowing for as long as possible. (5,689 bottles)

Closer to the heart of JW than its predecessors, Mastery of Oak follows a methodically complicated maturation and blending regime. American oak characteristics, singed cedar spills, damson jam, stewed apple, and rhubarb laced with peppery spice, nutmeg, and clove. A dichotomy of flavors: toffee apple and rhubarb become piquant, verging on sour, with a parallel strand of honey and Caramac. Short finish of the last vestiges of fruit and spice. (5,588 bottles, U.S. Travel Retail)

Try this in your next Manhattan. Heather honey sweetness, Belgian waffles, cinnamon, rye spices, creamy vanilla, peppercorn, and dried porcini emerge after the 6-month rye cask finishing period. Sweet caramel oozes over the tongue, Highland toffee and Orkney fudge hold the spices in check. Banana candy and deep citrus acknowledge the Dufftown single malt component. The most accomplished Blender’s Batch to date. Emma Walker has nailed it. (Travel Retail exclusive)

It rarely gets better than this. Vanilla, almond slice, toffee, pencil shavings, sweet oak, and mild wood spices on the nose. Effortlessly smooth and delicate, this warms up gradually, with malt, dark fudge, leather, raisin, and tobacco notes before the wood spices, oak, and chocolate take center stage, ending with a warm, lengthy finish. This must be master blender Colin Scott’s most preciously guarded recipe. The man’s a genius!

And you thought all Chivas Regal 18 year old was the same. Luscious toffee, cinnamon, nutmeg, chocolate praline, dry grasses, hazelnut, and just a lift of lime and peppermint. The palate has fudge-like sweetness, caramel, walnut cake, murmuring spices, orange peel, and toffee banana. Water unlocks watermelon and a fruitier side to its character. The spices push hard through the finish as the toffee flavors relinquish their grip.

Johnnie Walker Blue, meet Dewar’s Signature. Signature is Dewar’s introduction into the ultra-premium blended scotch category. Like Johnnie Walker Blue, Signature bears no age statement, but I’m told that a 27 year old Aberfeldy is the heart of the blend. The first release consists only of 1,000 individually numbered bottles, and they’re only available in New York City. I’m always a little skeptical of very expensive blends that come in fancy packages. There are some very good, reasonably priced blends in the 10-20 year old range, and the expensive ones are often only marginally better, if that. But I like this whisky a whole lot better than the standard Dewar’s White Label, and it is also superior to Dewar’s 12 year old-a whisky which I find to be quite enjoyable. While maintaining the Dewar’s profile-nicely balanced-this whisky offers greater depth, maturity, and complexity without being too woody-a creamy, malty foundation makes sure of that. The whisky expresses a rich, honeyed maltiness which combines nicely with notes of golden raisins, vanilla, caramel, and crème brûlée, with just a hint of spicy oak notes for complexity. Signature is a different style when compared to Johnnie Walker Blue-it’s more elegant and bashful-but, like Blue, I put Signature on my short list of the finest blends on the market. 

This whisky packs a lot of clean, complex, and well-balanced flavors. It features a creamy, layered, malty-sweet foundation (vanilla, caramel, toffee) chock full of bright fruit (golden raisin, honeyed orchard fruit, currant), rounded out by firm, dried spice (cinnamon, nutmeg, mint) that dances on the palate. Long, warming, spicy finish. Nicely done!

This has a significant proportion of sherry wood and it marks a real step up from its younger stablemates. It boasts a stylish nose of old leathery cigar boxes, vanilla, and orange marmalade. Syrupy on the palate, with oranges, sweet sherry, honey, and figs. Spicy oak, caramel, citrus fruits, and aniseed in the lengthy finish.

From a sherry cask. Bright and lively. Quite fruity, with notes of golden raisin, pineapple, nectarine, and tangerine. The fruit is balanced by honeyed malt and light caramel. A dusting of vanilla, cinnamon, and hint of cocoa, with black licorice on the finish. Lush and mouth-coating. The best of the Aberfeldy whiskies I’ve tasted to date. (New Hampshire only)

Some of the best intensely smoky, peaty Islay whiskies are balanced with a foundation of malty sweetness. This whisky is an excellent example. A sinewy malt with the classic bold notes of kiln smoke, peat, tarry rope, and coal ash. Sweeter notes of honeyed malt, ripe vanilla, chocolate fudge, and toasted marshmallow temper and sooth the palate, along with background berry confit. The smoke lingers long on the palate. Ardbeg devotees will not be disappointed. 

Similar to the standard Ardbeg 10 year old, except that a portion of the whisky was aged in heavily charred barrels (referred to as an “alligator” char). An aggressive whisky — even for Ardbeg — with a leathery texture throughout. Dynamic too, with coal tar, soot, bourbon barrel char, espresso, cocoa, licorice root, smoked fish, and a hint of ginger. There’s a nice creamy vanilla underbelly to balance the aggressiveness and (at least partially) muzzle the Alligator. 

This isn’t quite a distillery-only bottling so much as a bottle only available at the distillery — which isn’t exactly the same thing. Bottled more than 10 years ago to mark the distillery’s centenary, incredibly a small amount is still available, and it is well worth pursuing.
Until relatively recently Ardmore was an industry secret, cherished by those in the know. But the peaty and feisty no-age-statement Ardmore Traditional has introduced the malt to a new generation of drinkers, and last year’s sweet and fruity 25 year old suggested that the distillery has a potentially diverse range of future treasures to be excited about. This bottling is light, soft, sweet, and juicy. Orange flavors and peat team up to steer a middle way for what is a delicious and highly more-ish malt. Its only flaw is in the finish, which dies away too quickly for this palate. Perhaps a slightly higher strength would have improved it. No matter, it’s like the fade out of the guitar solo at the end of your favorite track; it’s a bit frustrating because you want it to go on and on, but it doesn’t stop you going back and listening to it all again.

A vatting of selected casks located at Balvenie’s No. 24 warehouse in Dufftown, this is made up of seven ex-bourbon casks and three butts whose ages range from 1967 to 1989, all of which are then ‘married’ in a large vat (aka a ‘tun’). There’s classic Balvenie honey, along with macadamia, pistachio, and caramelized fruits. As it opens, it shifts into a high-class gentleman’s cologne: musk and sandalwood with some mulberry to add depth. Elegant and magnificent.  £165

This is the heavily peated expression of BenRiach. (BenRiach does not differentiate their peated expressions with a different name, as Springbank does with Longrow, or Tobermory with Ledaig.) It’s also finished with the dark, lush “PX” sherry. Both influences are very evident, with the deep, heavy, earthy, smoky notes complemented by dark, fleshy, dried fruit. I think the two different influences marry very nicely here and I really enjoy drinking it. (Bottling at cask strength is a bonus!)

This 41 year old single cask was aged in a sherry butt and interacted magnificently with that wood. The nose offers peeled red apples, sultanas, honey, fudge, milk chocolate, and American cream soda. Balanced and harmonious throughout, the palate yields remarkably fresh orchard fruits, pipe tobacco, black pepper, and ginger. Long in the finish, with cinnamon drying to dark chocolate, and slightly smoky, unobtrusively tannic oak. A 1970s classic!

This 42 year old expression was matured in a single American oak hogshead (#4606) and offers a lovely mature, fruity nose, especially peaches and pineapple, plus vanilla and marzipan. Smooth and rich on the palate, with sherry, hessian, and spicy pineapple. Dries steadily but satisfyingly, with a hint of smoky fruit. Another veteran classic from the team at Forres. (52 bottles) £1,400

Mahogany color. Medium to full in body, and rich. Aroma and flavors are very reminiscent of the "Black Bowmore" releases: burnt fruit, roasted nuts, fruit cake, polished leather, wood resin, and just a teasing of smoke. There is a harmonious balance between the dry oak spices and the sweet, fruity oloroso sherry notes. Soothing finish.
   Style: Islay single malt Scotch whisky. Price: Approx. $1,500. Only 300 bottles, available this fall at specialty retailers nationwide. 
   This whisky was distilled around the same time-and is very similar in flavor profile-as the legendary "Black Bowmore" whiskies released several years ago. Comparing this release with the Black Bowmore is only natural. Having tried this whisky next to the previous Black Bowmores, I can happily say that this whisky is as good as they are (although a lot more expensive). While the original Black Bowmore whiskies are a little bigger and fuller in body (especially towards the finish), this new 1964 Vintage is a tad softer, sweeter, more rounded, and more seductive. This is a very contemplative whisky-the more attention you devote to it, the more pleasure it gives you.

This is a five year old expression of the more highly peated Bruichladdich whisky being referred to as Port Charlotte (named after the now-silent distillery down the road from Bruichladdich). More highly peated indeed. If you like your smoky Islay whiskies young and masculine, this one is for you. It’s like sticking your head in a peat-fired kiln. But there’s more to this whisky than massive smoke. There are underlying notes of kippers, soot, and tar. With further investigation, there are spice notes of black pepper and black licorice stick. What really makes this whisky multi-dimensional and balanced is its sweet underbelly of thick toffee, jammy fruit, and almond butter. Youthful, but not immature. 

Originally filled into 22 third-fill bourbon casks, this 32 year old was re-casked into first-fill bourbon barrels in 2012, then finished in French oak wine barrels. Fresh peaches on the nose, with vanilla fudge, honey, and ginger. Fruity and spicy on the luscious palate, with orange, cinnamon, and coconut. Long in the finish, with ever-present fruitiness, plus prickly chili notes. (4,200 bottles)

Creamier than the 12-bigger too, with broader shoulders and greater depth. Fairly sweet up front, with vanilla-laced malt, chewy toffee, and ripe fruit. Almond fudge and a hint of espresso add intrigue, while dry wood spice on the finish underpins the whisky's characteristic sweetness. Contemplative and complex.

A seductive Dalmore. Very fruity too, with Seville orange, peaches in syrup, clementine, pineapple, and bramble. Sugared almond, powdered vanilla, ginger, and lush sherry on the finish add depth and dimension. Consistent on the nose and palate, and with great balance. I’m glad they stopped the amoroso finishing when they did. I feel that any more sherry influence here would have been counterproductive. Very lovely!

Back due to popular demand in the U.S., this new incarnation of the Cigar Malt sees the percentage of ex-oloroso ‘Matusalem’ sherry wood ramped up from 60 to 70 percent. Pass the Partagas! Spicy Christmas cake with rich sherry notes on the nose. Fragrant, with figs, cinnamon, ripe oranges, and glacé cherries. Robust sweet toffee and mango flavors, with oloroso sherry, vanilla, and lively spices. Medium to long in the finish, with ginger, treacle, and licorice. 

This is comprised of whisky aged in a bourbon barrel, a 30 year old Matusalem sherry butt, and a Colheita port pipe. Figs and malt on the early nose; resinous, with tangerines, vanilla, and soft leather. Slightly thin on the palate, but very smooth, with spiced orange, dates, and coffee grounds. Dries very slowly in the finish, with persistent orange, a sprinkling of black pepper, and a suggestion of mouth-drying oak. (1,000 bottles per year for five years)

Quintessence is the first single malt to have undergone secondary maturation in five different types of California red wine casks: zinfandel, pinot noir, syrah, merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Sweet sherry, ripe cherries, marzipan, and white pepper on the nose. Rich and mouth-coating; strong flavor of thick-cut orange marmalade, oloroso sherry, malt, and milk chocolate. The finish features gentle warming spice and lingering Jaffa orange. Plain chocolate and orange notes seem as though they are never going to end! £1,000

This was initially matured in American oak bourbon barrels, then spent 7 years in 30 year old Matusalem sherry butts before 2 years of finishing in first-fill bourbon casks. The nose yields orange marmalade, wood resin, toasted brioche, and cocktail cherries. Apricot fruitiness on the early palate, then vanilla, ginger, and treacle. The finish is medium in length, with orange peel, fennel, and gentle spices. (750 bottles)

One of the first wood finishing efforts under Edradour’s new management. Very creamy in texture, with notes of sticky toffee, vanilla fudge, fruit cake, raisin, and burnt almonds. All this sits on a bed of dry, minty, resinous oak. The flavors dovetail nicely, with a soothing, satisfying finish. The port wood finishing adds complexity without dominating. 

I am amazed by how many old, sherried Glen Grant whiskies have been released to the market in the past ten years. (Did the distillery owners at the time also own sherry bodegas, or what?) Anyway, some of these have been dark, decadent, and delicious, and I’ll put this whisky in that category. Chestnut colored, with lush fruit, treacle, dark chocolate, leather, tobacco, roasted walnuts, and cherry cough syrup. A complex, well-structured whisky. 

Rich gold. Superb mature nose with subtle whisky rancio, mixing fragrant mango with a little mint, rosewater, and waxiness; there’s even some custard and a whiff of woodsmoke before sandalwood brings back the exotic edge. The palate is delicate with an amazingly fresh acidity that becomes herbal (basil and tarragon). It’s late summer, when there’s a sense of the year turning, and you allow fond memories to gently wash over you. £7,800

Quite earthy, with orris root, burlap, and dunnage warehouse notes.  Distinctly meaty—Bovril (beef stock)—then cedary. This untamed edge—think Mortlach or Benrinnes—dominates the palate, but the cask (a refill butt) isn’t overstating its presence. There’s espresso on the finish. Here’s Glenfarclas taking a ramble on the wild side. If your preference is for more robust styles, then look no further. £345

We’re drinking liquid history here. Antique gold color. Aromas of dried citrus, lemongrass, and ginger with background honeyed vanilla, dried herb, bouquet of roses, and a wisp of smoke. Very long and evolving on the palate, going from sweet to dry: vanilla custard, crème brulee, white chocolate, candied citrus, juicy oak, polished leather, dried tobacco, and then resinous oak, with teasing dry roasted nuts and hint of peat bog throughout. Long dry, resinous finish. Remarkably well-maintained for its age. I can tell that it’s an old whisky, but it shows good complexity. It’s not tired and excessively oaked. 
When compared to the 30 year old and 40 year old expressions, it’s actually more vibrant and youthful than the 40 sample I have. Yet it doesn’t have the deft balance and roundness which I consider a hallmark of the 30. Bottom line here: Anyone who can afford this whisky and actually drinks it will not be disappointed. It’s really nice. But for us regular folk, try to pick up a 30 year old Glenfiddich if you can find one and you won’t go wrong with the whisky -- or the price (relatively speaking, that is).

A classic mature ‘Fiddich nose, that mix of chocolate, sweet fruits, and funkiness. Dried apples, a little currant, but also a pure thread of sweetness. In time, a little fresh mushroom. Complex. Soft on the tongue, so you need to concentrate on what’s happening. Later becomes minty, with supple tannins and a little artichoke on the finish. Water needs to be handled carefully to bring out green herbal notes. I’d probably keep water on the side. Excellent. (Travel Retail only) £250

The Renaissance began with a 15 year old expression and charts the same spirit as it continues to mature. Aged in bourbon and sherry casks, the 3rd Chapter exhibits a sweet and sophisticated nose of honey, milk chocolate, Brazil nuts, toffee, and ripe peaches. Supple on the palate, with luscious orange and peach notes, vanilla, oak, and subtle spice. Plain chocolate-coated orange confectionery in the finish, with caramel and ginger. Balanced and delicious! £100

A first-fill sherry cask bottling (one cask, exclusive to North America). Some of the old Glenglassaugh whiskies can be very delicious, and this is one of them. It's very clean, lush, and fruity (bramble, citrus, golden raisin), with a kiss of honey, toffee, and soft spice. Elegantly sherried; it’s never cloying. A very nice whisky from a quality cask that tastes more like 21 or 25 years old than 37. (I mean this in a good way.) 

Glengoyne 35 year old has been aged in sherry casks and just 500 decanters have been released. The nose offers sweet sherry, maraschino cherries, honey, sponge cake, marzipan, and soft fudge, turning to caramel in time, with a whiff of worn leather. Slick in the mouth, with spicy dried fruit, and more marzipan and cherries. Long in the finish with plain chocolate cherry liqueur; still spicy. Finally a buttery, bourbon-like note. No negative cask connotations in this well-balanced after-dinner dram.

Matured in one-third first-fill  European oak sherry butts and  two-thirds refill sherry butts. Rich  sherry notes on the nose, with vanilla, sultanas, raisins, cherry blossom, and  a hint of new leather. Initially, smooth  and very sweet orchard fruits on the palate, with cherry liqueur turning to black tea and fennel. Drying very slowly  in the lingering finish, with spicy oak. (6,000 bottles)

Whiskies distilled at Glenlivet might be easy to find throughout the world, but this is a good thing. Take this one from Duncan Taylor—it’s delicious! It’s elegantly complex, with a tropical accent (coconut, pineapple), strawberries with whipped cream, and caramel-dipped apple. The sweetness is never heavy or cloying, and it’s balanced by lovely dried spice throughout (vanilla, ginger, soft mint, nutmeg), and especially towards the finish. Nicely done! 

A special bottling to celebrate a major distillery expansion in 2010. So nice to see this whisky bottled at cask strength and not chill-filtered. Silky smooth, velvety texture. Creamy sweet foundation of vanilla fudge and caramel-coated almond. Plenty of fruit, too (golden raisin, honeyed peach, ripe nectarine, hint of banana bread). Richly textured, good weight (but not cloying), and the flavors combine seamlessly. A celebratory whisky indeed.

A quintet of releases showing examples of The Glenlivet from five decades, issued to support The Glenlivet Generations 70 year old bottling. All are available individually or in a limited edition set (50 only) for £2,850; these bottlings are not currently available in the U.S.

First-fill sherry wood makes a return here and adds its own rich dried fruitiness — think sultana cake — to the exotic whisky rancio notes of cheese rind, sealing wax, and roasting pheasant. As it opens, there’s fig, some peat smoke, black cherry, and concentrated stone fruits. This exotic/savory/sweet interplay continues on the tongue where there’s a surprising hint of mint and some pear blossom. The finish is long, with apple skin, gingerbread, and walnut. A discreet nod to cognac. £1,250 

This expression is reputed to contain some whisky up to 40 years old and was matured in a mix of bourbon and sherry casks. The nose offers overt sherry influences, with fruit malt loaf, maple syrup, honey, and old leather. Full and slightly oily on the rich palate, with toffee, raisins, Brazil nuts, and fresh cake mix. Dusty spices and oak in the relatively dry finish.

Amber color with shades of chestnut. Full, complex aromas of fruit (cherries, currants, berries), marzipan, Demerara sugar, roasted nuts, and molasses. Full in body, with flavors that deliver what its aroma promised. Satisfying finish. 

The first release in Glenmorangie’s new Vintage Collection, named Bond House No.1 after the 19th century warehouse that became the distillery’s new stillhouse in 1990. Matured in a mix of bourbon and sherry casks. Mandarins, honey, and vanilla on the floral nose. Very smooth on the palate, with malt, vanilla, more honey, and milk chocolate orange. Attractive soft oak notes and gentle herbal spice in the medium to long finish.

A very richly textured Glenrothes. A heavy, honeyed maltiness provides the foundation of this whisky, with interwoven candied fruit notes (orange, tangerine, sultana), red and black licorice, toffee, and toasted almonds. Dry, spicy, oak notes balance its sweetness and provide depth. What impresses me most about this whisky is how it evolves on the palate and continues evolving through its lengthy finish. 

Glenrothes is one of those Speyside whiskies which matures very gracefully. Recent distillery bottlings (i.e. the 1979 and 1972 vintages) prove this point. This Signatory bottling also demonstrates that Glenrothes has the ability to get older and better. In this offering, the palate-coating, sticky caramel, syrupy maltiness of the whisky is rescued by firm, bold dry oak spice and lush fruit. Delicious toffee and roasted nuts longer on the finish. The 30 years in oak gives this whisky great depth, and bottling the whisky at natural cask strength ensures that the whisky is not cut off at the knees. A soothing post-prandial affair. 

Matured in a mixture of first-fill American sherry hogsheads and refill sherry butts, this is rich and fragrant on the nose, with dark berries and marzipan, then glacé cherries and wood polish. The palate is voluptuous with spicy dark fruit, Christmas cake, vanilla, milk chocolate, and a hint of dark rum. Dried fruits in the finish, with raisins, aniseed, and soft oak. Finally, plain chocolate. Superb! £375

At 29 years old this single cask is one of the best releases to date from the Perthshire distillery. The nose offers geraniums, honey, almonds, and toasted brioche, while the palate is creamy with vanilla, heather, a fresh menthol note, and green apples. Long and nutty in the finish, with black pepper. Drying only slightly, and spicy to the end—predominantly ginger. Beautifully balanced. (170 bottles) £295

Antique gold, relatively light in color compared to the rest of the Highland Parks reviewed here. Nicely rounded on the nose and palate, and surprisingly youthful for such maturity. Mouth-coating texture. Quite fruity -- especially with some water -- with notes of honey-drenched citrus, sultana, key lime pie, and melon. Caramel and bitter chocolate notes emerge, with the chocolate and a wisp of smoke lingering on the finish. I could drink this all day and never tire of it. (Bottled for Virginia ABC)

Rich, deep, and muscular on the nose and palate -- and very polished. Notes of caramel/butterscotch-coated citrus (lemon, Clementine) honeyed tropical fruit (coconut, pineapple), peaches and cream, creamy vanilla, and ripe barley, along with more subtle smoke, cut grass, and ginger. Firm, dry, resinous grip on the finish keeps all the sweetness in check. Rather expensive for its age, but not for its quality. Very impressive for a 12 year old! (Available only at the Highland Park distillery, their on-line shop, and in Scandinavia.)£65

The second in a series of three high-strength, limited edition Highland Park whiskies, and a rather bold expression. Nicely sherried and noticeably smoky — more than a standard Highland Park. Quite spicy too — with cinnamon, but also ginger and nutmeg. Throw in some toffee apple, Cointreau, and waxed fruit for intrigue. Long, sherried, smoky finish. A very exciting whisky. (Not available in the U.S.)£85

One of two recent vintage releases, this 1971 example has been matured in seventeen Spanish oak casks, that yielded a total of 657 bottles. Sweet on the nose, with maple syrup, almonds, and sherry. Soft and insinuating. Becoming progressively smokier. Bold fruit and peat notes on the palate, plus oak, cloves, and dark chocolate notes. Peppery in the long finish, with subtle tannins and persistent citrus fruits. 

Matured exclusively in sherry-seasoned first-fill European oak casks and bottled at cask strength. The nose yields figs, soft smoke, cinnamon, sugarcane, and rich fruitcake. The palate is succulent and confident, with creamy sweet sherry, dried fruits, coffee, and woodsmoke. Long and drying in the finish, with flecks of char. Highland Park doing what it does best. (28,000 bottles)

Lagavulin is a classic example of how smoke isn’t a blunt instrument that covers everything in a fog, but an element that works with all the flavors produced in distillation and maturation. Lagavulin isn’t ‘smoky,’ its peat moves into a weird territory of Lapsang Souchong tea and pipe tobacco, fishboxes and kippers. It smells of laurel and light cereal, but is always sweet. The palate shows more creosote, with hints of kelp and a little touch of iodine. Complex.

Lagavulin from a first-fill sherry butt? There’s unusual. This is huge, fluxing, and complex, mixing saddles and dark chocolate, pu-erh tea and smothered kiln, geranium and velvet, gamey venison and treacle. The smoke is integrated, the fires ember-like, the oak there but not oppressively so. Massive, dense, layered, and complex, this needs time to open. In short, a distillation of Islay and up alongside last year’s Jazz Festival bottling.

Though quiet to start, the impression is of a fog of smoke, balled up within a dunnage
warehouse, ready to erupt to add itself to the cool spearmint and oxidized
nuttiness. The palate is where it shows its class: mature, slowly unfolding and
layered, with Latakia tobacco, menthol, nori, white pepper, pear, and a massive,
tarry Bohea Souchong tea element on the finish. Everything from Lagavulin is
touched with gold at the moment. Try to find a bottle. (distillery only) £99

Amber with gold streaks. Its aroma and flavor is fresh, powerful, and medicinal, with notes of peat smoke, band-aids, tar, rich toffee, seaweed, and brine. Thick in body, with an almost molasses-like viscosity. 

Clean and complex, showing a matured, somewhat restrained personality for Laphroaig: less medicinal, but more rounded. Tar,
pencil shavings, anise, honeyed citrus, Spanish olive brine, and a hint of seaweed and white pepper on a bed of creamy vanilla, caramel, and light nougat. Lingering, satisfying finish. Frustrated by a dearth of 20-plus year old distillery-bottled Laphroaigs? Look no further. Delicious!

Any sherried Laphroaig is welcome, and this does not disappoint. Rich, resinous, medicinal, with underlying soft fruits, the smoke is all-pervading, but never dominant. In other words, it isn’t just complex and balanced, but has that other dimension which elevates it in mind (and marks). With water, there’s antiseptic cream mingling with oxidized fruits and nuts; think manzanilla pasada. The palate shows storm clouds gathering over Texa. Rich dried fruits, cacao, and a ferny lift on the finish. Fantastic. (The Whisky Exchange only)  £100

Style: Speyside single malt scotch Color: Honey gold Aroma: Subtly complex. Floral (especially roses). Honeyed vanilla sweetness. Subtle notes of bourbon and bakers chocolate. Murray McDavid (distilled at Linkwood, 1973, 46%) cont. Palate: Nicely balanced and with great depth. Again the honey and vanilla, which marries beautifully with the floral, herbal, subtly fruity notes. Almonds and dried spice on the finish. 

There are light oaked notes to start, along with Oolong tea and very subtle smoke. These then shift into a mix of cedar and scented blossom. Classic, layered elegance with the cask offering support, not dominance. The fruits have that slightly eerie quality of decay, while the palate is deep and juicy. This is an exemplary, subtle, old whisky with delicate rancio (it’s a little cognac-like), which is given a boost of extra life with a small drop of water. £94

This limited release was matured in 60% refill sherry butts and 40% fresh bourbon barrels. Initially sweet vanilla and ripe apple notes on the nose, giving way to chimney soot and dry peat. The palate is very full and oily, with honey and vanilla merging with smoked haddock, charcuterie, and more overt peat. Licorice, coffee beans, brine, chili, and peppery peat in the lengthy finish. (4,500 bottles)

The nose is fascinating, as if dust is cohering into form, and fruity form at that. When it emerges there’s baked banana, fruitcake, citrus peels, passion fruit, mango, mace flower, and nutmeg. A mossy edge anchors it to earth. Even livelier with water, this is a superbly balanced, mature whisky. The palate is pure, with big retronasal impact of the spice. Layered and long, it’s at its best neat; you need the intensity to amplify all the complexity. Superb.

Solid amber color. Flavors are seamless, silky smooth, and rich, with notes of dried fruit and flowers, toffee, subtle spices, and delicate nuts. A great after dinner malt, but universal enough to drink anytime. 

Deep amber color. Complex aromas of lush fruit (orange, lemon, red currant) and oak spices (cinnamon, clove, and licorice). Rich, silky body. Great balance and depth of flavor, with complex fruit and wood spices similar to its aroma all wrapped in toffee and vanilla fudge. Very long, evolving, and satisfying finish. 

Deep amber color with crimson hues. Incredibly rich aromas of fruitcake, toffee, dates, roasted nuts, with a hint of cocoa powder and other spices. Rich and thick in body. On the palate, there are evolving notes of chewy toffee, ripe fruit (oranges, golden raisons), chocolate covered nuts, multigrain toast, and polished oak. Long, soothing finish. 

This is my favorite of the three. For about $20 more, you get a richer, much more complex whisky than the 10 year old, and it is more balanced than the 21 year old. This 15 is drier than the 10, with lovely floral and spice notes (cinnamon, coriander, dried orange peel, lavender, rose), balanced by honey-laced complex fruit, and a dry, dark chocolate/orange marmalade finish 

Rising above the tat issued to celebrate the nuptials of Prince William and Kate Middleton was this extremely limited (1,000 bottles) release from The Macallan. The nose is a mélange of rich fruits, marzipan, and beeswax/resin but it lifts with a drop of water to show apricot and heavy florals. The palate isn’t overly grippy, with more orange peel, almond, and characteristic oiliness. A malty/nutty smooth finish makes this a great one. £150 (Not available in the U.S.)

The latest annual limited release is classic and sure to please true aficionados of Macallan. Stewed fruit and old leather on the nose, along with ripe cherries, gingersnaps, and black pepper, before orange marmalade notes develop. Full-bodied, with fragrant sweet orange, milk chocolate-coated Turkish delight, and faint smoke. The finish yields dark chocolate, cherry liqueur, and more pepper. Long and spicy.

Deep amber, mahogany color. Very mature and well-balanced. Notes of maple syrup on pancakes, roasted chestnuts, dates, pot still rum, burnished leather, maduro tobacco, and subtle Moroccan spice. Soft, stately finish. Older whiskies often show an exotic side to their personalities as they mellow out with age, especially if the wood influence doesn’t dominate. This is a very nice example of the genre. 

Port Ellen’s make was usually filled into old casks to maximize its smoke when used young. To us, therefore, it’s Islay’s most austere malt, yet the guys who worked there all talk of its sweetness. Here, finally, is an example of that. Yes, there’s some wet slate and briny smoke, but it’s balanced by citrus, waxy fruits, and a central sweetness adding complexity. It might have taken a long time to get here, but it was worth the wait. (Editor's Choice)   

This single cask bottling of Scapa is a beauty! Brilliant gold color. Clean and fresh on the nose and palate, with complex bright fruit (peach, tangerine, golden delicious apple, honeydew melon, pineapple), spice (cinnamon, vanilla, subtle cocoa), appetizing brine, and beach pebbles, all on a bed of creamy, squeaky-clean honeyed malt. Dynamic, appetizing, briny, dried spice finish. A delicious, superbly balanced whisky that makes a great aperitif, but I could drink this any time. (Bottled exclusively for D&M Aficionado’s Club.)

Aged in a first-fill sherry butt. Soft sherry notes, gentle toffee, golden raisin, green tea with honey, a peppering of spice (cinnamon, red and black licorice, candied ginger, hint of coconut macaroon and brine) and undertones of juicy oak (especially on the finish). Tame, somewhat seductive, and well-rounded. Not overly oaked, and I’m not finding any off notes. A lovely whisky, but not quite as dynamic as the “classic” Springbanks I’ve tasted from the 60s.

The nose is complex, with almonds, coconut, soft leather, tropical fruits, and stewed black tea. Hints of brine and peat appear. The palate is rounded and rich, with more tropical fruits, sherry, caramel, pipe tobacco, wood smoke, and spicy tannins. The finish is relatively long and creamy, with lingering smokiness. All the classic Springbank elements merge nicely here.

This whisky starts out rich and lush-both in aroma and on the palate, with notes of fig cake, candied fruit, and sticky toffee pudding. Citrus fruit (orange, lemon, tangerine)-a characteristic that emerges with many older whiskies-cuts through the heft and lushness of this whisky, contributing complexity, balance and drinkability. The whisky continues to evolve, serving up notes of almonds, exotic spice, and polished leather on the finish. An excellent example of what a mature, Speyside whisky should taste like. 

Some of these old G&M Strathisla whiskies are quite lovely, and this is one of them. It’s gently sherried, soothingly oily in texture, and complex, with notes of maple syrup, candied fruit, plum, roasted nuts, polished leather, and old oak, along with some damp earth, coffee bean, cinnamon, mint, and subtle, teasing kiln smoke. It’s soft, rounded, and still holds up nicely for a 44 year old whisky. If you like old, sherried Speysiders that aren’t overly oaked or sherried, you’ll like this one. If only it was bottled at 43% or 46% (or at natural cask strength, if it was less than 43%). It would give the whisky a little more backbone, and I might have bumped my rating up to the mid-90s. 

I wish the owners of Strathisla would put out older expressions of their whisky, and here’s why. Layers of sweetness (caramel in particular, but also honey and toffee) dovetail beautifully with an array of lush fruit (orange, apricot, golden raisin, fruit gumdrops). All this is underpinned by subtle dried spice (cinnamon, cool mint, nutmeg) and teasing oak resin on the finish. What’s most impressive here isn’t the laundry list of flavors (although they certainly are there), but rather the balance. This, and its lovely depth, with no signs of lethargy. Impressive!

Comes across initially to me as reserved, perhaps even elegant for a Talisker. Soothing too, with an oily texture. Quite fruity (orange, tangerine, apricot), perhaps even floral, with a delicate pastry sweetness. Then the more traditional Talisker notes kick in -- brine, seaweed, warming pepper -- repeated in the finish. A high-quality Talisker; albeit a bit reserved at times. I love the oily, viscous texture.

Talisker is a Special Releases favorite, and this bottling, the oldest ever marketed by the distillery, is actually the sixteenth. Distillation was in 1977, and maturation has taken place in both American and European oak refill casks. Soft wood smoke, sultana, nutmeg, and chili powder on the nose. Dried fruits, vanilla, and malt merge with more chili and savory notes, plus newly-dug soil on the complex palate. A touch of brine, orange peel, and bonfire in the finish. 3,090 bottles. 

This 27 year old Talisker has been aged in refill American oak casks, and the nose offers brine, wood smoke, wet tarry rope, slightly medicinal, with the emergence of milk chocolate. Big-bodied, with lots of peat accompanied by chili and smoked bacon, with sweeter notes of malt, fudge, and apple. A hint of fabric Elastoplast. Long in the finish, with rock pools, bonfire ash, and sweet, tingling spice notes which carry to the very end. A powerful beast, even by Talisker standards. (3,000 bottles).

The first Batch Strength expression of Tamdhu appeared in 2015 and was also matured entirely in sherry casks and not chill filtered. Big, sweet sherry notes on the nose, with vanilla, sultanas, maraschino cherries, and Turkish Delight. Rich and full-bodied, with oloroso sherry, milk chocolate, vanilla, dates, ripe cherries, sweet oak, and allspice. The finish is sweet and long, with lingering, lively spices. A very quaffable, well-priced dram for sherry bomb lovers.

A deep, mature Tomintoul that manages to retain the elegance and drinkability found in younger Tomintoul whiskies. Roasted nuts, lush fruit, suggestions of cherry brandy and orange marmalade layered with rich fudge, toffee, and maple syrup. Soothing finish. Tomintoul can be a simple whisky at a younger age, but this one has matured into a beautifully complex dram. (Bottled for Park Avenue Liquors.) 

Not what you’d expect from a malt at this age. Instead of oak dominating the nose, it's citrus in focus, with orange marmalade, candied orange, and even orange blossom. On the palate this whisky is light and delicate, leading with the citrus notes from the nose. This symphony of orange is followed with toffee, ginger, oak, and rancio in a combination that's well balanced and integrated. Unique for its age, a definite treat for those who prefer lighter and more delicate whiskies. (U.S. only, 600 bottles)

Aged in a refill American oak cask. Quite lively for its age, and the oak (surprisingly and happily) plays a supporting role rather than dominating. Creamy and mouth-coating, with vanilla wafer, coconut cream pie, caramel, nougat, and bright fruit (sultana, apricot, tangerine, and pineapple in syrup). Soothing finish. A very nice whisky. (Not available in the U.S.)£450

This 44 year old was matured in oloroso casks before being bottled at cask strength in May 2016. Mellow, sherried fruit on the nose, with rose hips, vanilla fudge, almond, honey, and slightly earthy spices. The fragrant palate features an intense blast of ripe fruit, caramel, and sweet spices, while resin develops in time. The medium-length finish offers plain chocolate, raisins, and prunes, with no negative tannins. One of the best Tomatins to date.

Finally, an unimpeachable counterpoint to the rally cry against no age statement whisky. Oban Little Bay is everything that Oban 14 is, and more. A rich, fruity, malty nose showcases dried apricot, dark chocolate, and salt. On the palate, Little Bay explodes with flavor, combining malt with orange, chocolate, and blackberry. Clove and oak spice join the party in the mid-palate, which shows superb balance and integration. A long, slightly dry, citrusy spice finish caps off a stunning whisky.

A whopping 90% malt and 10% grain whisky. Soft, with the oak remarkably restrained for its age. Soothingly sweet, with toffee apple, vanilla-spiked sponge cake, nougat, butterscotch, sultana, and cut grass. A dash of cinnamon and coconut throughout, with teasing, gentle polished oak on the finish. Deftly balanced and oh, so drinkable. 

A marriage of Dalmore, Fettercairn, and Ardbeg, and their personalities certainly show. The whisky was blended and then aged for an additional 15 years -- very atypical. The marriage of the three really works very well, combining a rich sweetness (honeyed malt, toffee) with spice, brine, vanilla, bitter chocolate, charcoal, espresso, tobacco, cigar ash, subtle marmalade, and firm -- but not dominating -- leafy peat smoke. Thick, nicely-textured body, too. Lingering brine and smoke on the finish. Delicious as it is, I can only imagine what it would be like bottled at 46% and not chill-filtered. (I probably would be bumping it up a few points.)

Aged 2.5 to 3 years on bourbon casks and then finished in sherry casks for 6 months. Wow, this is quite stunning! Old-fashioned in many respects: oily texture, with rooty, layered peat smoke, coal tar, shoe polish, and hints of wet sheep as the foundation for a complex array of additional flavors: toffee apple, caramel fudge, blackberry jam, golden raisin, grist, bourbon barrel char, and licorice root. Long, smoldering ember, dried herb, light toffee finish. It’s all balanced perfectly, and very mature for its age. If you like smoky whiskies, track one down. (Not available in the U.S.) £37.00

Glen Moray is celebrating its 120th anniversary with Mastery, a vatting from 1978, 1988, 1994, 1999, and 2001. Maturation—and finishing—has occurred in a mix of bourbon, sherry, madeira, and port casks. Resinous sherry, smoky red wine, caramel, and vanilla on the nose. Voluptuous on the palate, with sherry, succulent stewed fruit, soft toffee, and cocoa powder. Long in the gently spiced finish, with port-soaked oak. (1,000 bottles)

Rarely has a blend caused as much excitement as this one, but with good reason. This is also known as the Shackleton whisky, and is a recreation of the whisky abandoned in the Antarctic by explorer Ernest Shackleton more than 100 years ago. It has lemon, spring blossom, and wafts of smoke on the nose. The taste is full and citrusy, with peat and pepper in attendance. Beautifully balanced and outstanding, but there are just 50,000 bottles, so snap it up.

Sandy Hyslop has excelled at solely blending European oak sherry cask whiskies here. A dry, spicy nose to relish: rum-raisin ice cream, wafer biscuits, fennel seeds, roasted coriander, seasoned oak, and dense fruitcake. After the Cinnamon Toast Crunch and toffee sweetness disrobe, a riot of spices cavorts across the tastebuds, bedding down to a flavor of spiced, chocolate-covered toffee bars. For cigar lovers, this demands a fine, robust smoke. (Travel Retail exclusive)

This Blue Hanger has sherry and fruit on the nose, but it's all reined in. Then the palate is big, rich, complex, and fruity, and late oakiness from some 30 year-plus malt in the mix brings the perfect finale. £61

What a success story. After six releases in a decade, there have been three just this year. This release is especially for the States, and it's a fireball. There are dried fruits and dusty bookshelves on the nose, and tropical fruits with water. On the palate it's a big, peaty, rich whisky with licorice and more of the pineapple, kiwifruit, and guava. You get the whole fairground in the finale, with candy, fruit, and smoke. Excellent.

It’s the intensity of flavor that just grabbed me by the lapels and spun me round. It harbors intense tangelo juiciness; that unparalleled concentration of deep citrus skillfully mingled with dark vanilla, dried apricots, and gentle smoke. This goes the distance, delivering wave after delicious wave: peach juice, mandarin, pineapple cubes, and lemon zest. A firm, unctuous finish shows a little charred wood and dark sugar cloaked in fine smoke. Tongue pleasing and very special indeed. £90

The original Big Peat was a mix of smoky Islay malts and was already up there with the very best competition in the category, even though many of the others were bottled at cask strength. I scored it at 90. Now it’s back to play in the big boys' pool with a killer cask strength whisky of its own. This is to whisky what AC/DC is to heavy rock: old school, predictable, but great and exactly what fans want.

Marginally less aggressive than in 2014, this Big Peat is more rounded and exhibits greater finesse. Overall, it’s a better whisky. The invasive smoke still infiltrates the skull and clasps your brain tightly. A sweet smoke of smoldering hillside wildfire extinguished by rubber beaters, balanced by meadow flowers, tree blossom, and honey. Sticky lemons smeared in thick honey, cracked black pepper, and a fabulous, almost gelatinous texture, it builds solidly in peaty intensity. Knockout! A hot, smoky finish like dragon’s breath.

A purity and fragility rarely encountered, with aromas as fleeting as footprints on wet sand: marshmallow, meringue, honey, and rose petals. A delicacy to the structure brings banana, caramel, spun sugar, and orange peel. The oak spices build slowly, making the lips throb from the inside. It’s an elaborate maze of ethereal suggestion and an apparition of calm beauty. It atrophies reluctantly, leaving tangy peels and lengthy sweetness anchored by spicy base notes. (12,000 bottles)

A single cask from a refill hoggie, this bursts with vanilla fudge, cracked peppercorn, wood shavings, and apple strudel. Incredibly fruity, with mouth-watering gummy bears, tangy orange, and dried pineapple, evolving from sweet fruits through to banana chews. Diluting down from its considerable cask strength only pumps up the juiciness. To conclude, a long, creamy finish like a banana shake. Evidently, terrific cask selection at work. (K&L Wines exclusive, 246 bottles)

From whisky connoisseur David Stirk's Exclusive Malts Single Cask Cask Strength range, this is a blend made with 80% malt, and it shows. This is a beauty. It's also a ‘traffic light’ whisky, with the sort of whisky rancio associated with the oldest whiskies up front, peaches and cream and pureed fruit in the center, and changing to oaky spiciness late on. Whisky with body, depth, and balance, which morph seamlessly. Very good indeed.

Top notes of hay, honey, and caramel over a spicy core pulsating with pepper, rye, spiced Quaker Oats, and freshly planed wood. An epic battle ensues: round after round of citrus vs. spice, both growing stronger as they slug it out; jabs of sweetness meet a chastisingly nippy right hook, until, eventually exhausted, both protagonists drop their guard. Dry crackling spice and sugared almonds run through a mighty long finish.

Chocolate-covered raisins scoffed on a heathery moor, leather riding tack, intense plain chocolate, malt loaf, mixed nuts, Medjool dates, and traces of wood ash. A gorgeous, unctuous mouthfeel with flavors spun around bright sparks of orange, dark toffee, and rich maltiness, melding to black cherry, stewed fruits, licorice, and charred oak. Named for the leather golf balls packed with goose feathers used in the early 19th century. Sink one for a birdie. From the bottlers of Sheep Dip. £39

The nose is bathed in aromas of lime, bergamot, lychee, and fresh pineapple cores. This is delicate, refined, and complex, with touches of fragrant spices and a calming influence of oak. A web of citrus strands, barley sugar, and toffee is shot through by wood spices and surpassed by a delicious butterscotch flavor that continues into the finish.  Effortless, relaxed, and brilliant whisky, and quite frankly, I’m not sure you could find better 30 year old whisky at this price. £106

This is an assured release, one not trying to be anything other than beautiful old grain whisky. Caramel, aged oak, rose petals, and dried heather twigs, with touches of sweetness. The palate has a lovely substantial feel to it, the strength quite apparent, with soft sweet toffees, fleeting citrus and grapefruit, then aniseed tugging at your tongue. The finish is a gum-numbing, sweet decay of fading oaky memories. (78 bottles)

This is massive. It even pours thickly, as the aromas spill out of the glass: rich stewed apple, dry oak, a passing digestif trolley wobbling with dark sticky bottles, and currants on the tummy of a gingerbread man. There is a rum-like quality to the thick texture that lands squarely on the palate, bursting out with sweet apple and brown sugar. It hardly loses its grip after swallowing, dissipating almost imperceptibly against the approaching oak flavors. Special indeed. (330 bottles, WoodWinters Wines & Whiskies only) £150

Bladnoch master distiller Ian MacMillan’s blend is worth seeking out for its appealing freshness; green apple, caramel, shaved oak, toasted whole-grain bread, warm pastries, and dried peels. The palate is awash with bright flavors of honey, walnut, barley sugar, gingerbread in custard, orange taffy candy, and a little spice. It squeezes out more juicy peel oils the more you taste. The conclusion has sweet honey, gingerbread crumbs, and a citrus intensity.

Aged in new French oak casks, with long-toasted heads. Deliciously creamy, sweet, toasty profile with coconut cream, toasted marshmallow, toffee pudding, and honeyed vanilla. Gentle spice notes (especially clove) and hints of fruit dance on the palate. Very soothing. (Bottled for Park Avenue Liquors.) 

A marriage of two casks of Caol Ila (25 and 29 years old) and one cask of Imperial (14 years old). Penetratingly smoky, visceral, rooty, and even mean-tempered at times, ultimately being soothed by creamy vanilla and thick malt. It’s peppered with licorice stick, dark chocolate, campfire charcoal, subtle olive brine, and teasing berried fruit. Long, clinging finish. The flavors are nicely integrated and complex. Well done! (A limited release.)

Not the pimply youth you might be mistakenly expecting, this tongue-in-cheek release is impishly contemptuous of the regulations challenged by Glaser during the transparency debate. Lemon bonbon, heavy vanilla scents, beeswax boot polish, and white chocolate are well integrated with peat. The exotic fruits and citrus zest tumbling with golden syrup are knocked sideways by clove and pepper. Water provokes more sweet smoke. A dry, spicy, waxy finish remains. (3,282 bottles)

The tastiest of their Signature range, this boasts a dry oak and spice nose with fudge, rye bread, and banana interwoven with French oak influences of nutmeg, cinnamon, and ground ginger. As the gentle orange, malt, pear, and apple settle down, little spicy explosions of ginger and pepper detonate, leaving an aftermath of spiced malt, coffee cake, milk chocolate, and cocoa. Such a wonderful flavor trajectory to behold.

After a series of esoteric and expensive releases, Compass Box has decided to bring it all back to the people with a blend — and how! The journey sets out as we might expect; all sweet vanilla ice cream, stewed pear tart, and peach melba, but then a wave of spice and white pepper provides an unexpected but delightful twist. It’s like Spice Tree meets Hedonism…Spiconism if you like.

Smoke begins Jim Beveridge’s public replication of the annual Directors Blend concept, built around Johnnie Walker’s signature characteristics. Peat smoke harks back to Islay, but there’s wood smoke, tobacco leaf, and malt, with a salty richness behind it. The grain just gives it a lift of extra sweetness. Polished, with great structure; red apple, raspberry, and sweet linctus wrap up with a long, smoky finish of cigar stub and peat stores. Clear parallels with Directors Blend 2009, but better. (8,888 decanters released) £500

This is much more muscular than the regular, un-haunted Blue Label. It delivers a multitude of flavors—butter toffee, sweet smoke, citrus peel, and dry spices—tantalizingly peeling off layer after layer, building a slow crescendo to a peak of spices and bitter citrus. Mouth drawing with caramel, apple, pear, and sherbet, a mid-palate of zesty orange and baking spices before topping out with bitter peels, grapefruit, smoke, and sour hard candy.

Available for several years, but now finally making its debut in the U.S. The higher-end Dewar’s expressions (Dewar’s 12 year old and Dewar’s Signature) are very good blends. This one is situated smartly between the two. The malt proportion is rich and creamy; the grain whisky is crisp and well-integrated. Antique gold color, with notes of butterscotch, vanilla wafer, strawberry rhubarb pie, and citrus drizzled with honey. Lovely floral notes in the aroma, along with a pleasing, dried spice finish. I could drink this stuff all day long!

This Pedro Ximénez-finished blend is the oldest Dewar’s expression available. It offers a deliciously deep nose of chocolate-dipped biscuits, dried fruits, and orange peel. The palate includes indulgent rewards of berry fruit, chocolate praline, raspberry, cherry, dried cranberry, and hazelnut. It remains succulent throughout, the sherry fruit keeping the upper hand over the chocolate and batting away the occasional coffee note. A dry finish with nutty chocolate and roasted spice. (Global Travel Retail only)

This archetypal midnight dram enthralls with aromas of cedar wood humidor, blossom honey, hazelnut, vanilla pod, treacle cake, and maple syrup. Dry as leaves, save for some floaty florals. It’s less weighty than some whiskies at this age, with a balanced show of cinnamon, cocoa, berry fruits, dried grapefruit, hard peel, wood spices, dark toffee, and oak. A finish of dark vanilla, oak, spice, and leather make for a fine digestif. (782 bottles)

There was an Aberlour 18 on the market for a spell several years ago, aged in sherry casks, that I really enjoyed. Now we have this new 18 year old expression. There are big shoes to fill, and this whisky fills them quite nicely. Once again, the sherry is prominent throughout, with its lush fruit, velvety texture, and sweet demeanor. But it’s not cloying or sappy — the sherry blends in nicely with the rest of the flavors. Ripe orange, apricot preserve, peach cobbler, chocolate-covered caramel, and toffee, with a sprinkling of cinnamon and cocoa. Rich, silky smooth, satisfying finish. Very impressive. The Aberlour 18 year old’s reputation remains intact!

The follow-up to last year’s Ardbeg Day, here’s the cult distillery in its funkiest
guise with a nose that’s reminiscent (I’d imagine) of a frontier trading post:
all pitch, furs, and gun oil. Some mint hangs around in the background
alongside eucalyptus. This is an earthy, in-your-face Ardbeg with a hint of
box-fresh sneakers indicating some youthfulness. The mouth is thick and chewy:
wild mint, oily depths, and the slightly manic energy typical of Ardbeg’s young
years. Editor's Choice.

Pale and slightly flinty to start, with touches of Caol lla-style salt-washed rocks, but here there’s sweetness, while the smoke gives it a mezcal-like air; pears and burning wood (hot brake pads), minerality, then green olive and a light medicinal note. With water, sashimi-style cleanliness. The palate is rounded, with real olive oil, peppery sweetness, soot, and white chocolate. A real ‘palate whisky,’ filled with bare-faced bravado.  A great Ardbeg.

Apparently this is the final Supernova release and the Ardbeg team has ensured it goes out with all guns blazing. Although it seems calm initially—there’s a minty and sweet spicy element to the fore—the smoke begins to push through in the guise of creosote, then sootiness which, in turn, mingles with seaweed aromas. The peat dominates the palate but there is sufficient oiliness to round it out and add layers of smoked fish, and dried grasses. Farewell.

This is the bigger, spicier, and more complex of the pair (see below). A prickly start leads to heavy peat smoke, pink and Szechuan peppercorns, vanilla, dark chocolate, angelica, then seaweed. The palate is oily, with a detonation of gunpowdery peat, licorice, smoked eel, and a feral edge that adds grunt. Layered and complex.

This 23 year old expression was released for the Ardbeg Committee. It includes whisky matured in sherry and bourbon casks. Sweet asphalt, bonfire smoke, lemon sponge drizzled in iodine, and background cinnamon on the nose. Succulent, sherried, and chocolate-coated orchard fruits on the oily palate, with vanilla and sweet peat. The peat dries slowly in the finish, with developing licorice, kippers, and peppery oak

The 2018 Ardbeg Day limited-edition bottling includes a proportion of spirit matured in red wine casks which have been heavily charred, leaving deep grooves in the surface of the oak. Fragrant soft smoke, warm leather, and salty red berries on the nose; background charcuterie. The palate offers red berry fruits, vanilla, dense peat smoke, brine, and asphalt. Beach bonfires and black pepper in the sweet finish.

I feel this is by far the best whisky in the standard Auchentoshan portfolio, and it is one of the best Auchentoshans ever released. It’s delicious, nicely balanced, and with lovely depth for a Lowland whisky. Baked muffins, creamy vanilla, honey, and caramel blend nicely with delicate fruit notes (lemon, red current, strawberries). An impeccably balanced whisky. Similar to the 10 year old reviewed below, but with greater depth and a drier finish. 

The latest Balblair release is a 1995 vintage expression, exclusive to global travel retail outlets. Matured in second-fill bourbon casks, Balblair 1995 is non-chill filtered and naturally colored. Initially very fruity on the nose, with peaches and carnations, icing sugar on bonbons, then a faint sprinkling of black pepper. Stewed fruits on the early palate, full and confident, with developing spices and brittle toffee. Relatively lengthy in the finish, with dark chocolate and soft oak. Price is per 1 liter.

One of the finest Balvenie 15 year olds I’ve tasted. The flavors are clean, well defined, confident, and beautifully balanced. Full malty foundation (with some ripe barley thrown in). Soft, creamy vanilla, honeycomb, bright fruit (orange, nectarine, lemon peel, hints of pineapple), with emerging dried vanilla, coconut, oak resin, and subtle anise. Polished oak finish. It doesn’t have the depth that the classic older Balvenies have shown in the past, but what it does have, it has in spades. Beautiful! (A Julio’s Liquors exclusive.)

This newbie from Balvenie is the worldwide replacement for the market-specific Tun 1401. A larger volume vat (8,000 liters) is now being filled with an equally eclectic mix of casks (42 casks ranging from 1970 to 1992). Deep amber; this has substance but being Balvenie, it’s gentle: orange blossom/Manuka honey edged with spice, marmalade, scented woods, and a little frangipane. The palate shows a supple, rippling power with some apricot, cinnamon, and root ginger. Awfully good. £230

This is the ultimate PortWood expression from Balvenie and has been finished in 30 year old port pipes. A more vibrant and textured Travel Retail variant is non-chill filtered and bottled at 47.6%. Soft, red grape notes, vanilla, and milk chocolate on the nutty nose. Very discreet smoke. Rich plum flavors in the mouth, dark berries covered in cream, and spicy honey. The finish is long and elegantly drying.

The third batch in this series comprises twelve sherry butts distilled between 1989 and 1992, eleven American oak hogsheads from 1989, and eight refill American oak butts distilled in 1992 and 1993. Rich sherry, honey, and malt notes on the nose, with figs and citrus peel. Silky on the palate, with Jaffa oranges, raisins, ginger, and plain chocolate. Licorice, sherry, and spicy oak in the very long finish. (8,850 bottles)

Sweet and sherried, with plenty of sugar and toffee, moving into plums and thick chestnut honey. Give it time, however, and a haunting note of dried mango and guava emerges, followed by amontillado-style nuttiness and then beeswax polish. All in all, just what you want from a gently-aged BenRiach. The palate may seem initially grippy, but there’s such a massing of fruits that it copes well. Keep neat for maximum impact. Superb. £180

This vintage bottling was distilled during the 1970s and spent 41 years in a refill bourbon hogshead (#3434). Spicy on the early nose, with fresh oak. Increasingly malty, with ginger and apricot. The palate is rich and full, with Jaffa orange, stewed apples, cocoa, and pipe tobacco. Plain chocolate and increasingly tannic oak in the finish. Ultimately, warming spicy citrus fruits and smoky black pepper. (162 bottles) £1,250

This 39 year old was matured in a single refill American hogshead. Orange Jujubes on the early nose, with vanilla, honey, and linseed. Big, sweet, soft fruit notes on the palate, with pipe tobacco and a hint of background peat smoke. Aniseed and ginger develop, along with the merest hint of old oak in the persistently fruity finish. £1,250; Not available in the U.S. (225 bottles)

Amber chestnut color. Aromas of rich sherry, ripe fruit, toffee, molasses, peat smoke, damp oak, and nuts. Medium to full in body. Its flavors start out rich and sweet, with sherried fruit, toffee, and dark chocolate. It then becomes drier with notes of peat, smoked nuts, seaweed and brine, ultimately finishing with notes of spice, bitter chocolate, and smoky smoldering embers. 
   Style: Islay single malt Scotch whisky. Price: approx. $160. Available at specialty retailers nationwide. 
   This is a new bottling of Bowmore 25 year old and an improved one at that. It is richer, fuller, and more balanced than its predecessor. A wonderful dram indeed. The 17 year old was my favorite of the standard Bowmore line. Not anymore.

This replaces the 17 year old in the standard Bowmore portfolio. (The 17 year old will now be Duty Free Only.) The difference is significant. This one is more sherried than the 17 year old, and it wears the sherry well. I know that many of you, like myself, adore the 17 year old. Indeed, I feel that the 17 year old displays the true essence of Bowmore. But this 18 year old integrates the sherry notes with the Bowmore signature to create a richly flavored Islay whisky experience. Thick toffee, ripe fruit, and tar-tinged smoke are accentuated by dark chocolate, cocoa powder, burnt raisin, dates, and sea salt. Long, entertaining finish. 

A very clean, elegant Bowmore with a naked beauty that shows its Islay roots. You’ll find fresh brine and seaweed on a bed of honeyed malt and soft vanilla cream. Subtle berries, citrus, and melon fruit add a complex fruit dimension. Fresh, appetizing finish. Nicely done! (Exclusive to The Party Source.)

This is the first of four bottlings in the Vault Edition series and was matured in bourbon barrels in the distillery’s famous No.1 Vaults. Nectarines in brine on the nose, with iodine and sweet spices. Medium-bodied on the palate, with peaches, vanilla, salt, and slightly bitter orange. Lingering orange notes in the finish, with cocoa powder and lots of salt. This expression lives up to its name!

Quite lively for 25 years, with layers of bright fruit (lemon, nectarine, grapefruit, pineapple) on a bed of vanilla and honey. There’s a peppering of dried spice, smoldering ember, and beach pebbles. Lightly smoky, dried spice finish. Very nice. Brora enthusiasts will not be disappointed, but the prices of the whisky from this shuttered distillery are creeping up.

As ever, the composition of Black Art is a closely guarded secret, and this is distiller Adam Hannett’s first such assembly. Rich aromas of fig, succulent autumn berries, sherry, cream, and malt feature on the complex, floral nose. Viscous on the palate, which opens dry, with developing berry fruits and spicy oak, plus dried fruits and candied peel. Long and drying in the finish, with plum and peppery oak.

This expression was distilled in December 1986 and filled into seven oloroso sherry butts. In 2012 the whisky was transferred to Pedro Ximénez butts for finishing. The nose yields sultanas, figs, old leather, and white pepper. Very sweet fruit notes on the palate, almost sugary, with background rich sherry, dates, and treacle. Long and warming in the finish, with a wisp of smoke and fruit spices. (4,200 bottles)

Gold color with amber hues. Mature aromas of toffee and nuts, marzipan and candied fruit. Medium body and chewy in texture. A very mature whisky with evolutions of flavors-toffee, caramel, fudge, nuts, fruitcake, and a long finish that dries out very nicely. Older expressions of Bunnahabhain are often quite delicious, and this one is no exception. The dryness of the oak balances perfectly with the sweeter toffee notes of the whisky, and the extra age imparts considerable depth.

Although aged in refill, then active hoggies, and finally sherry, there’s more smoke
than oak here, a smoke like the aroma of a fire clinging to a tweed jacket. A
note akin to wilting spinach gives way to more conventional strawberries and
cream, but always mixed with seashore breezes. This is Caol Ila in deep and
bold mood with green fig, banana, and a sweet center. Water gives greater
integration. You might (just) be able to get this. Do it. (distillery only) £99

Clearly Caol Ila; it’s the way that the oily smokiness seems to lean into the nose, bearing with it wet oilskins, a barely smoldering wood fire, light seashore elements (drying crab shells), and very pure fruit, which then opens to classic smoked ham aromas. Retronasally, there’s a touch of green pea pod. The smokiness is more assertive than normal on the tongue, with olive oil, deep fruits, and a pine-scented juniper note. Another belter. (The Whisky Exchange only) £155

There’s something enigmatic and highly attractive about this distillery and its deceased brother, Brora. Perhaps it’s the unpredictability; there are plenty of independent releases of varied and often questionable quality, and you’re never quite sure what’s going to turn up. Even iconic expressions such as the 30 year olds can vary from quite sublime to appalling and sulfury when in the wrong hands.
When the malts from both distilleries are good, though — and the official bottlings tend to be — they’re very, very good. This Clynelish is a delightful surprise from the beginning, its nose some way removed from the official 14 year old, and more in common with some recent Diageo-release Broras, mixing soft maritime notes with squiggly peat and some fruit notes. The palate is complex and attractive, with savory peat, sweet pineapple, salt, light fish, drizzled lemon, pepper, chili, and cardamom. It all makes for a big, complex, evolving (and grown up) whisky — and great value for the price tag. 

The question is how this stacks up against the Friends of the Classic Malts bottling, one of my 2014 highlights. This shows mature distillery character with that discreet meaty undertow bedding down exuberant top notes: icing sugar on rhum baba, preserved lime, crystallized fruits, honey, pecan, fig, and scented woods. Typical of Cragganmore in its constantly shape-shifting character. The palate is concentrated orchard fruits, dried fruits, light spice, chestnut puree, and a little smoke. So yes, in the same league. (3,372 bottles)

A tribute to the Mackenzie Clan. Aged in bourbon barrels for 11 years, and then aged an additional 6 years in port pipes, creating a rich, voluptuous, robust Dalmore expression. Notes of toffee, molasses, caramelized nuts, pancake batter, fig cake, and chocolate-covered citrus. Subtle glazed ginger and orange marmalade add complexity. Polished oak, tobacco-tinged finish. Very dynamic and never sappy or cloying. Save this one for after dinner.

Staff members at Dalmore selected this distillery-exclusive bottling, which has been drawn from American white oak cask number 446, and bottled at cask strength. The out-turn comprises 450 bottles. Refined, polished oak on the nose. Honey, marzipan, caramel, and vanilla. Fragrant, with old leather and over-ripe oranges when water is added. Warm leather, apricots, orange marmalade, cocoa powder, and developing spice on the palate. A long, spicy, citric finish. Finally, licorice. £150

Initially filled into an ex-bourbon cask, then transferred into a Gonzales Byass oloroso ‘Matusalem’ sherry butt in 2005 for four years, before a final two years in a freshly-emptied bourbon barrel. The nose is initially floral, with overripe Seville oranges, figs, ginger, and cocoa powder. Peaches and almonds on the palate, before dark fruits and salted nuts appear. Drying oak is held at bay, and the final note is fat and figgy. Cask number 14; 233 bottles.

Dalmore released 8,000 bottles of its latest 21 year old, initially matured 10 years in American oak barrels before an 11 year period of secondary maturation in first-fill Matusalem oloroso sherry butts from Gonzalez Byass. Intense aromas of Jaffa orange, marzipan, and ginger, plus soft oak. Robust, yet stylish. Smooth and well-rounded on the palate, with milky coffee, orange marmalade, cinnamon, and developing spicy dark chocolate. The lengthy finish is spicy, with licorice, a hint of citrus, and sweet oak.

Dalmore launched a trio of vintages finished in tawny port pipes. The pick of the bunch is the oldest, distilled in 1996, which displays a confident, rich nose of raisins, mildly smoky prunes, vanilla, and blood orange. Full-bodied in the mouth, with red berry fruits, ginger, white pepper, and spicy oak. Medium-length in the finish, with coffee-soaked oak, figs, and damsons at the close. £450

Glen Grant’s new(ish) owner Campari is putting its money where its mouth is. Investment in plant, wood, and an impressive visitor center is slowly being backed up with a series of new releases. This venerable example comes from Gordon & MacPhail’s stocks, but is an official bottling due out in time for Christmas. This is GG in relaxed, avuncular mode: subtle woods, amber, Oolong tea, anise. The palate is old apple, fresh plum, cream, and ginger spiciness. £255(Available at the distillery, in France, and Travel Retail in Asia only.)

Maturation took place in refill bourbon casks before a final 12-month period in first-fill bourbon casks. Lemon, ginger, pine resin, and a hint of sea salt on the nose, then banoffee pie develops. Luscious on the palate, with subtle spice, a touch of ashy smoke, and principally big orchard fruit notes. Drying in the lengthy finish, with a wisp of smoke, brine, and peppery oak. Glen Scotia at its characterful best.£250

New for 2017, this was matured for 17 years in bourbon casks before being finished in oloroso sherry casks for 1 year. The nose is fragrant, with prunes, oranges, vanilla, and faint wood polish. Ultimately, ozone. Silky palate delivery, with sweet sherry, honey, and dark chocolate-coated orange fondant creams, then a note of angelica. The finish offers spicy plain chocolate and a suggestion of sea salt. £86

Nutty on the nose, with a whiff of new leather and tropical fruit, plus the aroma of unsmoked cigars. Complex on the full palate, with almonds, citrus fruit, ginger, plain chocolate, a slight herbal note, and sweet oak. The finish is long and spicy, with black pepper and increasing oak. An often underrated single malt at its very best. (1,600 bottles)

Matured in oloroso sherry casks. Confident plum, prune, and raisin notes on the early nose, with developing ripe cherries, sherried fudge, and resin. A slightly earthy undertone. Viscous in the mouth—very sweet—with developing tingling spices, then darker fruit notes emerge, with licorice and plain chocolate. The finish is long, with enduring dark chocolate and fruity spice. (1,180 bottles)

The oldest of the fifteen expressions in Batch 16 of GlenDronach’s single cask release program, this cask-strength offering has been matured for 26 years in a Pedro Ximénez sherry puncheon. The nose yields fresh-from-the-oven Christmas cake, cherries, nutmeg, and sweet leather. Viscous on the palate, with dark sherry, raisins, plain chocolate, tangy orange, and caramel. Prickly chili and dates in the long finish. (546 bottles) £310

Dark, chestnut-copper color suggests a sherry cask, and one nosing confirms it. A very multi-faceted whisky-the sherry is quite profound, but there’s a lot going on in addition to the sherry. Deep, succulent, and chewy on the palate, with fig cake, raisins, old rum, tobacco, pencil shavings, and almond fudge. Quite a mouthful! 

First things first — congratulations to the Grants of Glenfarclas on attaining their 175th anniversary. To celebrate, they have vatted together a cask from 1952 with one each from the following five decades — and released it at an exceptionally reasonable price! The nose has a lift of struck match immediately followed by cedar, pomegranate, blackberry jam, and Seville orange. There’s a thick caramel toffee sweetness to the palate alongside the classic ’Farclas depth where dried, but sweet, fruits repose. Recommended.  £80 (Dave Broom) (Value Pick) 

Another first fill sherry butt, giving its typical reddish-brown hue. This runs more into the clove, cassia, and allspice area than just dried fruit. While maturity is obvious, and there’s even a hint of dunnage/leatheriness, it is the concentrated fruit sweetness that surprises here. The distillery has fought back against the cask, and while still crepuscular in nature, there is a rich, concentrated, and mellow glow at its heart. £345

Only 60 bottles have been released from this 60 year old first-fill sherry cask. Amazingly, the nose is not dominated by wood, but is mature and concentrated with the aroma of rain-moistened tweed, tropical fruit, blonde tobacco, cedar, and chanterelle mushroom. This elegantly faded, sepia-tinted impression continues on the tongue: fine-boned, mossy, clean, and slowly drying. A classic example of oxidation, not woodiness, allowing
freshness to be retained. Amazing. (The Whisky Exchange exclusive.) £6,000

Very elegant and refined. Obviously this whisky was aged in a pristine sherry cask. The flavors are quite clean and well-defined. Gently sweet and fruity, with golden raisin, candy apple, and red raspberry jam. There’s delicate pineapple, dried cherry, coconut, and vanilla too, with a polished oak finish. A very classy Glenfiddich. Not as bold and spicy as last year’s 1976 vintage (which I had a hand in selecting but, ironically, don’t like as much). This new vintage approaches the caliber of the 1973 Vintage release from two years ago which I still think is the best one in recent years. 

Glenfiddich’s Experimental Series continues with this expression, finished for up to 6 months in ice wine casks sourced from Peller Estates winery in Ontario, Canada. Concentrated aromas of canned peaches in syrup, vanilla, and clotted cream. Silky on the palate, with a carryover of peaches from the nose and succulent blood oranges. The finish is medium in length, slowly drying, but fruity to the end. (7,800 bottles in U.S.)

The first release from the new owners of Glenglassaugh distillery is obviously intended as a showpiece expression, and it does not disappoint. Due in the States next year. Damp moss and cedar on the early nose. Sultanas, candied orange, maraschino cherries, and sherry. Treacle notes in time. Spicy fruits, figs, brittle toffee, sherry, and ginger on the mellow yet robust palate. The finish is medium in length, with allspice and old oak, plus a wisp of tarry smoke. £245

Deep gold color. Incredibly complex, subtle aromas of vanilla, honey, marshmallow, tropical fruit (pineapple, peaches, coconut), floral notes and a hint of almonds. Medium-full in body, and firm. On the palate, the flavors are complex and exhibit the same notes as the aroma, starting out gently sweet, but gradually becoming fruity and eventually drying out on the finish. 

Richly textured with mouth-coating malt that is balanced by an array of lively fruit (fresh peach, nectarine, tangerine, pears in honey, and delicately caramelized pineapple). Creamy caramel, crème brûlée, anise, and subtle toasted marshmallow add complexity, as does its gently spicy, pleasingly dry finish. Two years older than the standard 16 year old Nadurra (which I like for its vibrancy and freshness). This new Triumph 1991 is richer and more textured, with more caramelized sugars, riper barley, and greater fruit impact. More mouth-coating too. (Exclusive to the U.S.)

A vatting of three first-fill American oak casks, for me this is the most lifted and effusive of the ongoing Cellar Collection range. The nose is full of aromas of anise, blackcurrant leaf, honeysuckle, jasmine, frangipani flowers, and a subtle almond sweetness. The palate continues in similar vein with more spice and just sufficient oak to add distinct structure and a coconut character. Sublime. It won’t, however, be released in the U.S. £1,000

Quite deep for a Glenmorangie, but still surprisingly balanced. Glenmorangie is a lighter-style spirit and, in the past, some of the older vintage expressions were heavy-handed on the wood. The oak aging is obvious on the nose, but this whisky manages to walk the thin line between enjoying the maturity and depth of an older whisky without too much oak influence.

The 8th Private Edition release. This one is finished in sun-baked casks which previously contained Malmsey Madeira. A predominantly sweet and fruity whisky, with caramel, honeyed almonds, peaches in syrup, and orange scone. Soft, soothing finish. Delicious!

The most recent vintage from the 1980s. This whisky is very bright and lively. It dances on the palate with orange, tangerine, and lemon gum drops, balanced by vanilla, light caramel, hint of anise, and delicate oak. A whisky with great finesse and drinkability. 

More polished and sophisticated than the comparably sweet and lush Lagavulin 21 year old also reviewed here. The pedro ximinez cask finish certainly gives as much as it takes away when compared to the benchmark 16 year old. An array of complex ripe fruit, interwoven with notes of pot still rum, toffee, tar, seaweed, and brine on the finish. It seems logical to marry this big, smoky Islay whisky with an equally big, sweet, fruity sherry. In this case, the marriage works wonderfully.

You want and expect rich and peaty malt from Lagavulin and you get it here in droves, though not in the most obvious way. This version is somewhere between the cask strength 12 year old and the Distiller’s Edition, rather than the standard 16 year old, but it’s an absolute peach and a treat for lovers of this distillery. The nose is constrained and shy at first, with lychee and kiwi fruit offering a sweet and gentle carpet to coastal peaty notes. The palate is big, rich, full, and peppered, with sharp apple and citrus fruits. It benefits from water, too, as there’s a delightful swell of fruit, chili, peat, and soft licorice. As with all great Lagavulins, the tarry peatiness lingers longest in the finish.

Deep amber color. Wonderfully complex, and nicely balanced aroma and flavor of vanilla sweetness, tarry rope, oak, toffee, seaweed, and brine. Medium to full in body, and creamy in texture, with a finish that doesn't quit.

The whisky begins sweet and creamy, with notes of vanilla, honey, and ripe malt (reminiscent of a malting floor). Then the Laphroaig signature peat smoke, seaweed, tar, and medicinal notes emerge. Bottling at 48% and without chill-filtering keeps the whisky from being dulled down. A whisky that is very dynamic. Nicely done. 

Bottled at 46% and not chill-filtered. Smart move! It really helps this whisky. This is a soft — almost elegant — Laphroaig (if that’s not an oxymoron). Very clean, with honeyed malt, ripe barley, brine, seaweed, and peat smoke, with just a teasing of the medicinal, band-aid notes that Laphroaig is known for. The owner-bottled 18 year old, which I rated a 90, is darker and drier, with more oak on the finish. I like this Hart Brothers expression just a little better.

The oldest house bottling of Longmorn to date is non-chill filtered and lavishly presented in a purple casket, which probably accounts for a chunk of the purchase price. The nose is classic Longmorn: soft and sweet, majoring in honey, hazelnuts, caramel, and milk chocolate, while the creamy palate features orchard fruits, ginger, and allspice. The finish is lengthy and softly spiced, with honey, orange, and sweet oak.

Macallan’s 18 year old expression is, for me, the highlight of its regular sherried range. Deep amber in color. The nose is rich and heavily fruited: fruit cake, mulberry, a little moist gingerbread, the bloody depths of molasses. On the palate, dried fruits — more figgy than raisined — while the natural oiliness in the spirit balances the boisterous tannins from the European oak. A singed note on the finish (an extension of the molasses?) completes the picture. Balanced and complex.

Dark mahogany with ruby glints and a green rim. Lots of highly-polished oak as we move out of the woods and into a silent country estate. Wax polish and masses of whisky rancio. Sherry-soaked oak, dry leaves, currants, and ripe blackberry. Highly concentrated, but the fruits push their way through only lightly-resisting tannins. There’s a hint of smoke and Seville orange bitterness on the finish. My pick of the quartet. Excellent. 285 bottles. 

With worm tubs and a fiendishly complex partial-triple distillation, Mortlach has adhered to an old style of making whisky — and older, richer, darker flavors. Big and bold, it is at its best in ex-sherry casks. The nose is meaty (think gravy/beef stock) with fig, raisin, and molasses. In the mouth it’s concentrated, with good grip and a savory sweetness. A cult malt. £41 (Not available in the U.S.)

Surprisingly fresh - sanguine even - for its age, and appetizingly aromatic. Fairly light and approachable in body, but always inspiring and pithy. Notes of fresh, seabreeze brine, teasing exotic spices, and tangerine are softened by gently creamy malt notes and hints of coconut and almond. Very delicious and enjoyable anytime.

The oldest bottling of Old Pulteney to date has been matured in American bourbon and Spanish sherry casks, and was personally bottled by distillery manager Malcolm Waring. The nose of this highly accomplished veteran is fragrant and waxy, with cooking apples, milk chocolate orange, Christmas spices, vanilla, and fudge. Initially, the substantial palate offers spicy fresh fruits, seasoned timber, then a hint of brine, with sultanas and plain chocolate. The finish is figgy, gingery, and sherried.  £1,490

Amber color. Full aroma of peat smoke, with interwoven notes of seaweed, burning leaves, leather, and fudge. Medium in body, with a slight oily texture. Powerful and evolving in flavor, with great depth. It begins somewhat sweet up front with notes of vanilla and toffee, followed by a peat smoke explosion. Lingering notes of seaweed, oak, salt and pepper add complexity. Finally, the whisky becomes slightly sweet again, with lingering smoke. 

Aged in a bourbon hogshead, allowing the distillery character to shine through. Fresh, lively and inviting (especially for its age), with a complex array of tropical and summer fruit, peppered with brine, vanilla, and a hint of baker’s chocolate. An oily texture adds weight. Dry, deliciously appetizing finish. An excellent aperitif whisky, but enjoyable anytime. (D & M Wines and Liquors exclusive.)

The first of five annual releases of Local Barley from Springbank. This practice revives a concept discontinued in 2001. The barley in question was grown at Low Machrimore Farm in the south of the Kintyre peninsula and was distilled in September 1999. Barley, damp earth, sea salt, and citrus fruits on the lightly peated nose. The buttery palate yields spicy peat, orchard fruits, and more earthiness, closing with smoky lemon.

This replaces the 17 year old in the standard Bowmore portfolio. (The 17 year old will now be Duty Free Only). The difference is significant. This one is more sherried than the 17 year old, and it wears the sherry well. I know that many of you, like myself, adore the 17 year old. Indeed, I feel that the 17 year old displays the true essence of Bowmore. But this 18 year old integrates the sherry notes with the Bowmore signature to create a richly flavored Islay whisky experience. Thick toffee, ripe fruit, and tar-tinged smoke are accentuated by dark chocolate, cocoa powder, burnt raisin, dates, and sea salt. Long, entertaining finish. 

Fresh and lively for its age, with appetizing saltiness, citrus fruit (lemon, line and orange marmalade), and subtly complex dried spices. A fat, malty foundation complements these seasonings beautifully mid-palate, with the salt and dried spices emerging again on the finish. Very sophisticated. 

The soft fruit theme continues in this vatting of whiskies from, you guessed it, five decades of the distillery’s life. This has a heavy, heady, honey element alongside apple blossom and then peach and apricot pulp. There’s real complexity. The palate is lighter, although still layered with some heat. With water there’s more apricot skin and some banana. Don’t overwater, as it becomes a touch too tannic. You want that unctuous elegance. Highly recommended. £250

Significantly darker than the rest, well-balanced, and palate-coating. Softer, not as intense or as dry as the 30 year old. Creamier too, with subtle, yet exotic notes of tropical fruit and exotic spices. There is a point at which ultra-aged spirits -- whether they are whisky, rum, tequila, or brandy -- find a common ground. What they lose in identity, they gain in intrigue and layers of subtle complexity (if properly matured). This whisky fits into that category. Contemplative and ethereal in nature.

This bottling is from the oldest cask owned by Tullibardine distillery, a sherry quarter cask (#341). An initial whiff of Cointreau on the nose, then vanilla develops, with marzipan, white pepper, linseed, and old hessian. Finally, musty sherry. A silky mouthfeel, with drier sherry, black currants, dark spices, and plain chocolate. Extraordinarily lingering, with orange wine gums and spicy licorice. Despite 50 years of maturation in a relatively small sherry cask, a whisky of great depth and quality has emerged. £16,000

Drier, less toffee and fruit, more dried spice and oak when compared to the standard Oban 14 year old.  A beautiful combination of rich, nutty toffee balanced by polished oak, salt, pepper, seaweed, distant smoke, and dried fruit.  Somewhat oily in texture.  Wonderful depth, too!  An improvement on what is already the biggest-selling Diageo single malt scotch in the U.S.  Very exciting and dynamic.  (7,700 bottles available only in the U.S. and at the Oban distillery).

Matured in a sherry cask. Lush, with glazed citrus, caramelized peach, chewy toffee, roasted nuts, and subtle pine needles. The sherry is a driving force throughout this whisky, but it’s obviously from a very clean, polished European oak cask. Very delicious, with a long, satiating finish. Quite impressive for such a young whisky. My favorite of the bunch. (534 bottles) £300

Originally blended, then recasked into fresh bourbon wood three decades ago, the nose of ripened peaches, cooked pear, pecan nuts, menthol, clove, and vanilla make for a compelling combination. A surprising lift of red summer fruits as this bright whisky sashays around the mouth, the complexity measured out in installments; plum sauce, toasted oak, coffee bean, gingersnaps, clove, licorice, and hints of savory juices. It dances on and on with the whirling wood spices in no hurry whatsoever. (592 bottles)

In my opinion Cutty Sark 25 year old is one of the great blends, so a new version was always going to be a big ask. This one comes with a lot of packaging, so is it a victory for style over substance? Not at all. This is all about big flavors; burnt orange, juicy raisin, and dark chocolate; rich oak and exotic spice. A treat, and worthy of its heritage. But at that price—and bearing in mind it's a limited edition—are you going to open it? 

A new line of Islay single malts from Specialty Drinks, an extension of The Whisky Exchange. (The bottle doesn’t tell you which distillery this whisky came from, but if you look at a map of Islay you can probably figure it out.) I like this expression better than the more expensive 25 year old. There’s impeccable balance and more vibrancy in this 17 year old, with seaweed, smoked Spanish olive, coal soot, pencil shavings, citrus, and anise, along with subtle kipper and picked ginger. All this is layered on a bed of oily, honeyed malt. Salty, peppery, sooty, tarry finish. Nicely done! £50

The first thing I wrote was, “classic Kilchoman.” Then I paused…because it’s true. Though still young, here’s a distillery that has established its own character. In this expression you get full integration between oak and distillery, a sparkling mix of seashell and the freshness of seaweed, touched with churned butter, driftwood, and fresh-kilned peat. On the tongue, there’s samphire, peat, sweet barley, and an herbal kick. This is Kilchoman coming of age, assured and confident.

Matured in a combination of oloroso sherry butts filled in 2008, and bourbon barrels filled in 2008 and 2009. The nose is initially flinty, with lemongrass, fabric Band-Aids, fudge, and vanilla. Ultimately the lemon is joined by Jaffa orange juice. Supple and sweet on the palate, with developing nutmeg and white pepper. Peppery in the finish, with plain chocolate and aromatic peat smoke. (840 bottles)

Soft, soothing, and gentle. Layered fruit (bright orchard fruit, honeyed melon, kiwi, pineapple), polished oak, and hay, subtly spiced with vanilla bean, milk chocolate, evergreen, and cotton candy. Bottled at peak maturity. Very more-ish, too! (A Park Avenue Liquor exclusive.)

As you raise the glass to your nose, this has refreshment written all over it. The fragrance of an early morning visit to a florist, zesty orange notes, honey, peach pits, a hint of salt, and the faintest trace of smoke. It’s silky smooth, glistening with honey, a firm edge of orange, vanilla tablet, barley sugar, powdered ginger, all elevated by the grains supporting the Scapa. A smooth, feather-light finish of sparkling light spices and creaminess. A joy to behold.

You really don’t see many of these. Pear drops, stewed apple, strawberry jam, fragrant rhubarb stems, and vanilla pods. Neat, there’s a tacky sweetness of hard candy, with bitter skins of damson and green plum, sloes, and custard creams. Counteract this with water to bring out acetone, cake mix, and sweet bourbon notes of vanilla and creamed coconut. Then it is triumphant. Dry oak and dark vanilla complete one of the longest finishes I’ve savored this year. (111 bottles) £420

There is a beautiful interplay between the lemon and sharp lime set against the bracing coastal nature of this dram. Gentle vanilla, honey, lemon zest, and gooseberry compote waft from the glass. Vanilla frosting, coconut macaroon bars, malt drinks, peach, lemon, and an undercurrent of pepper. Creamy chocolate once the spice subsides, it ends with a fantastically chewy mouthfeel. Nuts, pepper, and cocoa make for a mouth-coating finish.

This dark, chestnut liquid exudes wafts of rose hip, dense fruitcake, sliced fig, cherry, oak, Brazil nut, and earthy, fragrant damp moss within the rich sherry complexity. A voluptuous, palate-saturating whisky, with burnt orange, ginger spices, star anise, dried fig, and ripe purple plums, concluding with chocolate truffles. It’s a rollicking good blend, dripping with sherry notes, and leaves a deep glow far back in the palate. You’re going to love it. (1,428 bottles) £120

A pedigree blend gracing your glass with aromas of sultana, prune, glacé cherry, toffee, nutmeg, dense dark fruits, sweet toffee, and cozy Christmas spices. This well-paced, silky blend canters through red apple, cherry, pomegranate, pressed date bars, Brazil nut, nutmeg, and pepper. Cinnamon, black pepper, and apple peel make for a harmonious finish. A suitably glamorous libation for spectators of the sport of kings. £110

Deep amber. Generous sweet sherried nose; very ripe, with dried orchard fruits, chestnut puree, and indeed chestnut honey, then a little touch of meat and a pungency akin to Guyanan pot still rum. Sumptuous. As it opens there’s a fluxing mix of sticky toffee, game, pomegranate, and dried red fruits. The palate is deeply savory, with floor polish and cooked plums, finishing with fragrant pepper. The cask has a huge say in things, but the spirit copes. Excellent. £191

Here we see a significant step-change from the progression of 13 to 19 (see below). Now, there is added spice, ripe fresh cooked and dried fruits, and a touch of the peat smoke that used to be lightly added. With water, a mix of maple syrup and waxiness comes through. Complex and deep. The palate remains thick and silky, with melted white chocolate before lilies make an appearance alongside baked pineapple. Structured, layered, long, and elegant. £337

Part of the Rare Vintage range, this was matured in first-fill sherry butts. Spicy sultanas and figs on the nose, plus a menthol note. Fragrant old hessian. The palate is initially malty-sweet, with sherried Christmas cake notes, then plain chocolate and raisins emerge. The finish is long, spicy, and drying in a leisurely manner, with the expected level of tannins for a whisky of this vintage.£620

There should be few qualms about snapping up this aged Highland gem given the blender’s prowess and the generous pricing. Ripe stone fruit, straw, sweet oak, and ground almond on the nose. For its advancing years, it’s quite a ride at full strength; thick, glossy, and mouth-coating with tangy sweet oranges, fudge, and candied citrus. Best sipped neat, it ebbs away with bright orange fruit and buzzy spices. (1,080 bottles) £200

Powerful and rich to begin with. Some raisin syrup backed with clean, apple-like acidity adding some freshness. This swells into a deep but refined musky apple/pear note with some black fruits behind. Highly complex, but full of distillery character. Water brings out a note like freshly-applied varnish. The palate is smooth, gentle, and deep. A classic mature Linkwood with all of the distillery character on show in perfect alliance with the cask.

A welcome return for Hart Brothers. This Glen Grant is light, clean, and penetrating, with lots of gooseberry, melon, basil, and cut grass. This turns into an intriguing note of concentrated fruits; think yellow wine gums and fresh William pear. The palate has classic Glen Grant purity, with a hint of tropical fruits. Water adds another graceful layer on top, making the effect more like a rose garden…one which you keep returning to. Excellent. £66

This 2016 release in its ceramic flagon entices you with lemon, soft fruits, honey, digestive biscuits, and taffy candy. It’s dense and weighty; oozing with flavors of barley sugar, caramel, sweet oak, and some mature orange peel characteristics underpinned with ginger and pepper. Profoundly long, sweet finish pricked with bitter orange and spice. One of those great drams that you can happily imbibe at cask strength without dilution. (2,000 bottles)

The first release from Ailsa Bay distillery is an NAS peated single malt. The new make spirit initially spends 6 to 9 months in 24 to 100-liter Hudson Baby Bourbon casks. It’s then transferred to virgin oak, first-fill, and refill American oak casks for several years. The ultimate vatting is non-chill filtered. A sweet, smoky nose with almonds and walnuts leads into a palate featuring citrus fruit, spicy peat, and cereal notes, with cocoa and soft oak in the finish. (UK and Nordic availability) £55

This limited edition 20 year old assemblage was matured in bourbon barrels, sherry casks, Cabernet Franc casks, Cabernet Sauvignon casks, and Pinot Noir barriques. Rich and sweet on the nose, with marzipan, apricot jam, and fresh pineapple with vanilla custard. Silky, with ginger, cherries, and caramel on the palate. The finish is long, with black pepper, licorice, and slightly tannic oak. (5,000 bottles) £120

Non-chill filtered and matured exclusively in bourbon casks. Very floral on the nose, with toffee and spicy new leather. Soft and slightly smoky in the mouth, with vanilla and spicy, ripe pears.  A touch of licorice leads into a long, slightly drying finish. (670 bottles)

Inhale deeply and this bestows a sense of serenity; morning dew on clipped lawns strewn with spent fireworks and strands of honey mingled with subtle, elegant smoke. Blender Maureen Robinson’s light, well-balanced creation ushers in gentle honey and growing sweetness, before billowing puffs of smoke grow dominant. Charred peaks of a lemon meringue pie, iced coffee, and milk chocolate follow, leaving a catch of smoke in the aftertaste. Quite a charmer.

Sweet caramel on the boundary of maple syrup flavors, with aging tobacco leaf, walnuts, malted barley, charcoal sticks, and snuffed candle wicks, all cushioned by soft oak. An initial impression of a lighter character, though it’s bursting with juicy toffee, butterscotch sauce, wood spices, and dried banana. The spices vibrate gently around the gums on the dry finish of this high-malt content blend, leaving nutty residual flavors.

The salty coastal twang meets the sherry head on, revealing mandarin, gingerbread, glazed ham, clove, seashells, and driftwood bonfires built on pebble beaches. Smoke comes to dominate the sherry. Orange oils precede a delayed ignition of the spices. More honeyed sweetness comes through, while a smothering layer of peat rises up. Warm spicy finish, until a thick curtain of smoke closes it down. But hey, this rocks.

Not Compass Box at the very top of its game, but pretty damn good nevertheless. This is a mix of malts from different distilleries and it has the company's distinctive DNA all over it, combining siege cannon-strength peated malt with rich, fruity, sherried whisky. It's clumsier than the wonderful Flaming Heart but in the same ballpark, and I have to declare an interest — I adore this combination when it's delivered right. £180 

The smoking wicks of church candles, smoked meat, coastal notes, cumin, coriander seed, and herbal elements. A sophisticated palate of unsweetened fruit. Peaches, citrus, and pineapple, with a waxy presence building later on, settles to a dry finish of herbs and beeswax. We can easily overlook the narcissism of making tributes to your own past bottlings as John Glaser turns whisky resurrectionist in homage to Eleuthera. Layered, complex, thought provoking, and finely tuned for the connoisseur.

Compared to Asyla, this has noticeable added richness, fruit, and spice. The nose brings apple danish, creamy custard, honey, citrus peel, and the fragrance of lightly toasted spices. Against a core of rich, tangy fruits, a spicy partnership of pepper and clove manifests under the tongue, stealthily curls around the sides, and storms the palate. The mouth-coating finish drips with mandarin and cooked apple pierced by clove.

A special bottling in recognition of Chicago's outstanding alternative rock venue Delilah's, and like that venue this is full of character, color, grit, and determination. It's sweet but never cloying, soft and honeyed but gutsy, and there are peppermint, licorice, and fresh hay notes in the mix, too. It's spent time in bourbon wood and that shows. A departure for Compass Box, but a healthy one.

A fantastically earthy whisky bristling with real, grubby peat: more blazing, bothy peat fire than coastal campfire. Fleeting elements of fudge and smoldering, mellow cigar stubs. A smooth, creamy blend with lemon curd, vanilla sponge, mint, smoked prosciutto, and a dollop of malt. There’s wonderfully smoky, singeing heat at the back of the palate, though it feels like the Islay peat has been pegged back for the 2015 batch. A succulent and smoky finish to warm the soul.

An older, more exotic expression of Hedonism, consisting of 42 year old Invergordon and 29 year old Cameron Bridge grain whiskies. Straw gold color. This is richer and cleaner than most other grain whisky offerings, which are often too thin and overweight with dry oak. Like many older grain whiskies, creamy vanilla, coconut custard, and a variety of tropical fruits abound. Additional notes of toasted marshmallow, caramelized apricot, golden raisin, and a gentle dried spice finish add complexity. Surely one of the better examples of this rather eccentric category.

What happens when you light a bonfire underneath Green Label? Earthy peat smoke with medicinal characteristics of lanolin and antiseptic, a salty tang balanced with creamy vanilla, strands of citrus, and touches of menthol and aniseed. Smooth as a thief in the night; mouth-coating toffee, growing smoky notes, and peppered mackerel push back the waxy, citrus elements. Now the fire is alive; the sweetness gets out while it can. (Travel Retail exclusive)

So how brave can you be? Would you take one of the world's most iconic blends and risk messing with it? If you've got a whisky maker as good as Jim Beveridge, then why not? This picks up from the regular JW Black and its signature Caol Ila smoke and peat heart and then adds to it, doing exactly what it says on the tin. But the clever part of this is upping the apple, orange, and fruit content too. Great. 

Wheat, corn, and malted barley are your three grains here. Orange grove before harvest, a rounded candied peel note, plenty of sweet grain, and creamy vanilla, all backed by gentle spice. Luscious and chewy caramel, taffy candy, lavishly rich orange, and glowing spice notes wrap around the tongue. It’s incredible how they can make this tasty blend of five whiskies look so devastatingly easy (when it’s not). Value Pick

Not exactly a new whisky for the Jubilee, just a new pack, but it’s a good enough excuse to have a look at this top-end blend. Great maturity with masses of orchard fruits and a hint of passion fruit as well. The oak is rounded and supple while with water a banana note is released. Thick and chewy, with more grip than suggested on the nose and a little nut on the finish. Great blending. 

The divine stone fruit aromas are the key to unlocking the nose on this one: apricot, honey, vanilla icing, malt bins, Quaker Oats Squares, and lofty floral top notes. Sweet mandarin, brown sugar, vanilla fudge, strands of finely shredded peel, and more spice than the 12 year old can muster. The sweet vanilla aftertaste is softer and more elegant than the younger expressions.

Amber gold color. Aromas of delicate fruit, coconut, vanilla and toffee, with delicate background oak notes. The flavor delivers what the aroma promises. It is nicely balanced, with a lingering dryish finish. 

Amber, with shades of ruby and gold. Aromas of complex ripe fruit (golden raisins, marmalade, cherries, apples), toffee, treacle, and hint of mint. Full, rich texture and body-almost chewy. Flavors of lush fruit drenched with honey and caramel. Long, warming, slightly spicy finish. I'm so happy to see this fine whisky finally imported to the U.S. after being available in its homeland now for about two years. The name a'bunadh literally means "the origin" in Gaelic, and it produced in the style of Aberlour back in the late 1800s-at the natural strength and not chill filtered. It certainly is an exciting whisky, produced in small batches (mine was Batch #6) from select oloroso sherry casks. I've noticed a slight variation in color from one batch to the next, largely due to the types of sherry casks selected.

Double cask matured. More subtle and complex than the new 12 year old, and not as sweet. Creamy in texture and floral on the nose, with dried vanilla, gentle spice, nectarine, kiwi, plum, and lemon gum drops. Soft, elegant finish with a hint of mint. Great balance of a variety of flavors and lots of finesse. A well-crafted whisky!

Amber, with shades of ruby. Notes of complex honey-drenched fruit (sultana, marmalade, peaches, apples), toffee, treacle, and hint of mint. Full, rich texture and lush body. Long, warming, moderately spicy finish.

Pale white wine color. Smoky, youthful aroma. There’s no surprises here-it definitely smells like a young Ardbeg. Big beautiful explosion of smoky, tarry flavors that evolve and seem to linger on the palate indefinitely.   Style: Islay single malt Scotch whisky. Price: low $60s. Available nationwide. 
   This is the first Ardbeg release I've tasted since the distillery's long shut down in the 1980s. After the shut down, they discontinued their floor maltings, so I was concerned that it might not taste like the Ardbeg of old. Ardbeg fans can let out a big sigh of relief. This one is big and gutsy-just the way we like it. My only criticism of this particular release is that it could have used about one or two more years in oak to tame some of the spirity nature of the whisky. Otherwise, this is wonderful stuff!

Very dynamic, complex, and powerful. Here’s what I’m picking up, in somewhat descending order in taste profile: leafy smoke, coal tar, mocha fudge with dark chocolate chips, smoked olive, peppered seaweed salad, fruit (lemon, lime), genever, brine-tinged grass, and (with some coaxing) floral notes (violet?). Compared to last year’s debut release of Supernova, this one is certainly comparable, but I feel it’s a tad richer, with more leafy smoke and ripe barley. It also seems a bit more polished, less aggressive. I like it a little more than its predecessor (which I rated an 89).

“Ardbeg in Perpetuum” would mean “Ardbeg forever.” It’s made up of a mélange of different casks: American oak, refill, French oak…and others. Intense, marine, with pineapple, wet moss, tar, cracked black pepper, and a nuttiness. The palate is oily, sweet, with smoked cream, balanced by a very pure acidity, then soot and char. Will the fact that it isn’t an extreme Ardbeg satisfy everyone? Probably not. Is it a bloody good session drink? Damn right it is. (200th anniversary bottling)

The oldest Ardmore I have tasted. Smartly bottled at cask strength and not chill-filtered. (The entry level Ardmore “Traditional” is at the opposite end of the age spectrum, tasting quite youthful.) My initial concern with this 30 year old was: would the wood dominate the lovely floral, smoky notes I enjoy so much with Ardmore? The wood is certainly present, but the smoke still comes through. There’s a gently layered sweetness that complements the smoke (toffee, deep caramel, subtle honey), licorice root, bourbon barrel char, coffee grounds, and high cocoa chocolate, with subtle dried citrus and a suggestion of floral soap. Dry finish, with more bourbon barrel char and licorice root. Considering that Ardmore has historically been a blending malt, most of the stocks right now are much younger. This is a rare treat. It’s a wee bit thin in body and a little on the dry side from 30 years on wood for me to rate it in the mid 90s, but it’s still a very enjoyable whisky.

This is not a single-cask bottling like other recent wine-finished releases, but the casks they selected are very good ones. Lovely antique amber color. The Madeira dovetails beautifully with the malt and oak, and it has matured nicely for a whisky less than ten years old. Lush notes of orange marmalade, raspberry tart, and panforte, all wrapped up in rich toffee and a dusting of nutmeg, cinnamon, and cocoa. A dry, resinous, spicy, tactile finish adds balance, complexity, and additional dimension. Smartly bottled at a higher strength. Some of these wine-finished Arran whiskies are impressive. This is one of them.

Aged in first and (mostly) second fill sherry casks. The sherry is kept in balance and does not mask Auchentoshan’s subtle beauty. The classic Auchentoshan creamy, grassy, freshness abounds, complemented by honey-soaked almonds, cereal grain, and an array of bright fruit (citrus, sultana, mandarin). Not as polished as the Auchentoshan 21 year old, but quite entertaining. (420 bottles for the U.S.) 

Amber color, with gold hues. Soft, subtly seductive aromas of creamy vanilla, crème brulee, tropical fruit, oak, and a hint of mint. Light to medium in body-silky in texture at first, then becoming and firm. On the palate, the whisky starts out gently sweet, with creamy vanilla and honeyed malt. Subtle tropical fruit notes arrive mid palate. The whisky then begins to dry out fairly rapidly (this is a 36 year old Lowland after all), as dry resinous notes of vanilla, mint, and herbs reveal themselves. The whisky finishes dry, with notes of soft leather. The way the owners of Auchentoshan and Glen Garioch are handling vintage bottlings now is that specialty retailer orders an entire cask and sells it exclusively. This one is a Sam's exclusive. It's older than the previous, widely distributed 1966 bottling and less expensive too! You wouldn't expect a triple distilled Lowland whisky to age so gracefully. Auchentoshan is an exception to the rule. It has acquired the depth and maturity from extensive aging, yet it still manages to maintain its distillery character and Lowland gentility. Only on the dry finish does it really show its age. But that's a small price to pay for an otherwise very good single cask whisky at a very reasonable price for 36 years old.

A special Balvenie to honor Master Distiller David Stewart’s 30 years working at the distillery. This is a big and brooding dram. The aroma suggests it is aged in both bourbon and sherry oak. It’s complex and richly flavored (sweeter up front and increasingly dry towards its finish), with notes of honey, candied fruit, thick cut marmalade, vanilla, almonds, and prominent spicy oak notes. I’m picking up plenty of sherry in this new expression, which I like. It finishes firmly dry, with notes of spice and tannin. While I enjoy this whisky a great deal, you might want to seek out the Balvenie 25 year old (which I rated a 93) while the odd bottle is still available. It is slightly more rounded on the palate, and less than half the cost. 

A harmonious marriage of fruit and spice. More balanced than last year’s sweet Rum Cask release. In fact, this is one of the most deftly-balanced whiskies I’ve tasted this year. Bramble, ripe nectarine, caramel apple, honeyed vanilla, and golden raisin, spiced with cinnamon and nutmeg. Soft (for Balvenie), lingering, warm, dried spice finish. 

So soon? This latest release of what is becoming a legendary series mixes nine casks—four butts, five hoggies—from between 1966 and 1990. Hugely complex and obviously mature, it is one to sit and smell forever. Marzipan, mocha, pain au chocolat, manuka honey; every sniff reveals another aroma. It opens into cigar, sandalwood, citrus, and ripe black fruits. The palate is equally layered and expansive. It takes water, but only a drop, for that density is all-important.

This latest installment of the Tun 1401 series is a classic expression of old, mature Balvenie, where a waxiness akin to furniture polish slides into mead-like aromas; actually more like metheglin, as there’s an herbal, spiced element. Its textural richness means it is best with water on the side, allowing deep earthy, licorice, and cigar ash tones to
develop, along with just the lightest squeeze of tannin. (U.S. only.)

The oldest of the set shows a shift into a sense of calm and quietude. The dried blossoms of youth are there, still with a little color to them, while a curl of smoke also comes through. Then, out of nowhere, a sudden eruption of tropical fruits, a flaring in the dying light. There’s no oakiness, just a distillery, framed, gently receding. A remarkable dram. It’s almost shameful to discuss cost! £19,000

A refill American oak hogshead matured this whisky. The nose offers malt, vanilla fudge, pineapple, and contrasting lemon. Lively tropical fruits on the palate, almonds, walnuts, and ginger cookies, with ever-present oak. Bitter coffee in the medium-length, leathery finish.

Great balance between vibrant oak spice and lush, sherried fruit. Interwoven notes of honeyed malt, vanilla, citrus fruit, milk chocolate, and lingering peat add complexity. Quite large for a BenRiach and very fresh for its age. This whisky takes BenRiach to a higher level. 

Beautifully clean and polished on the palate -- it still allows BenRiach’s other flavors to shine through. Ripe, complex tropical fruit notes meld with delicate honey and suggestions of shortbread cookies and toasted coconut. Teasing peat and smoke surfaces from time to time. This whisky is a lot of fun to drink. (800 bottles total; 120 for the U.S.)

No hiding that this is one of BenRiach’s peated variants, with smoke coming at you like an out of control garden bonfire, but the inherent sweetness of the distillery character adds a counterpoint: cinnamon-dusted apples baking in the fire, before angelica and cannabis (someone tells me) come through. The interplay between fruits and grassy smoke continues on the palate alongside toffee, nougat, peach syrup, and salty licorice before the smoke returns. A belter. And a great price.

Following on from 21 and 25 year old expressions of Authenticus, BenRiach has now added its oldest variant yet to the lineup. The nose offers orchard fruits, honey, polished oak, and vanilla-tinged peat smoke. Full and fruity on the palate, with sweet peat having a presence, plus milk chocolate and licorice. The finish is relatively long, with citrus fruit, ashy smoke, and a lingering herbal note. £400; Not available in the U.S.

Matured in a mixture of oloroso sherry, bourbon, and virgin oak casks. Honey, vanilla, and tropical fruits on the spicy, aromatic nose, with just a hint of oak. The honey and vanilla carry over to the palate, where they are joined by peaches, drinking chocolate, and subtle sherry. The finish dries steadily, with long-lasting citrus fruit. A stylish, complex dram.

We had some new Benromachs from Gordon & MacPhail last issue that illustrated what the firm has been up to since it purchased the site in 1992. This release comes from its previous incarnation as part of DCL. The elegant, mature nose shows an ‘Old Speyside’ light smokiness alongside barley, cacao, cigar humidor, and potpourri. The palate is gentle and unctuous with some sherried touches, while the smoke reruns on the very end. £150 (Not available in the U.S.)

Benromach’s first triple-distilled single malt was matured in first-fill bourbon barrels. The nose offers peaches with a wisp of sweet smoke, vanilla, and a hint of lime. Voluptuous and very sweet on the palate; intense sugary orchard fruits and stem ginger, with the characteristic Benromach peat smoke dialed back. The finish embraces insistent black pepper, nutmeg, and very mild peat. £45

This Perthshire single malt was distilled in 1993 and aged in European oak sherry butts. Brittle toffee, black treacle, aniseed, black pepper, and cigar boxes feature on the rich nose. The bold palate yields full, creamy sherry notes, almonds, ginger, old leather, and a slightly savory tang. Long, warming, and peppery in the finish. (5,514 bottles)

A lovely example of a mature, sherried Bowmore. Its rich flavors evolve on the palate and are nicely balanced. Lush fruit, juicy oak, damp peat, and kiln smoke are peppered with cinnamon, raisins, dates, and cocoa. Warming, soothing finish. Not quite Black Bowmore, but a delicious whisky nonetheless. 

Darkest now has an age statement of 15 years old. This new release is an improvement from the original Darkest, both of which are succulently sherried. It is fuller in flavor and more visceral, in both the nose and palate. These differences are subtle, but positive. Notes of lush fruit, raisin, pot-still rum, and Heath bars. Citrus and wood spices emerge, along with burning peat embers that linger on the finish. Nicely done. 

The fruit (orange marmalade, tangerine, fresh pineapple) is nearly as dominant as the leafy smoke. Sweet notes of nutty caramel, honeyed barley, toffee, and nougat round out the palate. Ginger, cinnamon, telicherry pepper, tobacco, and ash play a supporting role. Lingering fruity, smoky finish. For those who like sherried Islay whiskies.

There’s a fascinating journey taking place here. The nose takes you indoors; caramelized tropical fruits, coffee cake, a spent fire in the grate, and just the merest whiff of the waves hitting the beach. The palate, however, places you squarely aboard a yacht under sail: salt spray, deck and engine oil, worn leather upholstery. It seems way more mature than 12 years. The intensity is lost with water, but you gain more smoke. A great bottling.  £59

Matured in first-fill sherry casks, here we have Bowmore at its ballsiest, with massively bold notes of prune, dried fig, salted treacle, toffee, shoe leather, rose petal, and savory maritime edges that glance toward Marmite, all of which are infiltrated by clouds of smoke. The palate has retained sweetness, mixing black cherry, pipe tobacco, and cloves. Powerful and seriously impressive with fantastic balance that retains Bowmore identity, adds richness, ups the peatiness, and leaves you under Satan’s spell.

This Bowmore has been finished in sherry casks, but without allowing the exuberance of the cask to overwhelm the dram. Instead, there’s concentrated stone fruits, lifted smoke, dried mint, dark chocolate, bitter orange peels, and some smoke. There’s a teasing hint on the tongue of tropical fruits, then a deepening mix of plump dried figs and sultana. Long, layered, with the smoke seamlessly involved, adding accents rather than fogging up proceedings. (Whisky Shop chain only) £70

The distillery closed in 1983, and was replaced by the Clynelish distillery across the street. Classic Brora. Fresh, and exuberant for a 25 year old whisky. Briny, with citrus zest, fruit gum drops, dynamic spices, and a hint of seaweed and smoke. Appetizing finish. All the flavors are well-integrated, and the whisky is very clean. If you don’t have a Brora yet, get this one before it’s gone. 

Finished in Chateau d’Yquem casks, and it shows. There’s a creamy, honeyed sweetness and viscosity to this whisky that is very soothing. Bruichladdich’s brisk sea character cuts through the lightly syrup-like thickness and keeps the whisky fresh and lively, while notes of golden raisin, peaches, lemon gum drops, vanilla, and coconut add complexity. Satisfying salty/sweet finish. 

A marriage of Bruichladdich with three different peating levels. Devotees of young, smoky Islay whiskies will enjoy this one. It is youthful and explosive, with earthy peat smoke, fish nets, brine, and kiln ash. All this is tamed beautifully by notes of vanilla wafer, seductive malt, marshmallow, spiced peaches, and pear. 

This one is my favorite of the four distillery-bottled Bruichladdich whiskies reviewed here. It still quite lively and nicely balanced for such a mature whisky (and reminiscent of the previous 1970 vintage in this respect), with some floral notes and brine emerging from its fruity, vanilla, truffle, nougat foundation. Still, it maintains an air of lightness and freshness throughout, with a pleasingly dry, subtly spicy finish that lingers. 

An unusual, but very fine, Bruichladdich, with sweet, chewy toffee notes I often associate with Speyside whiskies, not Islay (although I have tasted a few older Bunnahabhain whiskies that were like this). Layers of marzipan and chocolate fudge also emerge, and I even pick up some apple and black cherry fruit in the background. Bruichladdich's "sea breeze" freshness rises through the chewy sweetness and provides balance and complexity.

The first 10 year old distilled by the current owners back in 2001. Lovely marriage of both bourbon and sherry casks, and quite fresh, with a maturity resembling a 12 year old, rather than 10. Smooth on the palate and very drinkable, with creamy vanilla, honeycomb, banana bread, bright lemon, melon (honeydew, cantaloupe), tangerine, candied ginger, and delicate brine. With all the Bruichladdich razzle-dazzle over the past decade, we can embrace this unpretentiously delicious Laddie with open arms. 

Using barley grown on Rockside Farm, this is fresh, sweet (agave syrup), delicate, and lightly buttery, with touches of lily of the valley and lemon sponge cake mix. The cereal character is restrained, with a charred hint on the palate along with banana, mandarin, cassia, and pink marshmallows (untoasted). The Laddie’s floral notes emerge late, and the whiff of white pepper on the end is all there is to remind you of its youth. A classy young whisky. £45

Robust Port Charlotte character, with salami and jamon serrano to the fore. Somewhat like eating a chorizo and roasted red pepper sandwich on the beach on a summer’s day, but it retains the sweet freshness of the distillery character. With water, the lovely smell of cow’s breath. There’s dry smoke to start with on the palate, becoming sweet (flash-fried scallop) with sugared almond on the finish. For me, PC comes fully of age here. £55

Quantities of Optic and Oxbridge barley varieties were grown on eight Islay family farms during 2009, and the following year this grain was distilled, then matured in bourbon and French wine casks. The nose offers ginger, melon, malt, sweet (lit) pipe tobacco, freshly baled straw, resin, vanilla, and spice. Chewy in the mouth; oily, with toffee spices and youthful oak notes. The finish features oysters with lemon squeezed over them.

Older expressions of this unpeated Islay dram are often quite delicious, but they aren't easy to come by. The best ones, like this one, take the sweetish toffee/nutty foundation of younger expressions and add layers of depth and complexity. This whisky just continues to evolve on the palate. The entrance is creamy in texture with layers of sweetness (caramel, vanilla fudge, toffee), becoming nutty and marzipan-like with subtle background fruit. The finish is long and pleasingly dry, with a hint of salt. Very entertaining and satisfying.

Nougat and dates to the fore, then becoming increasingly nutty with suggestions of Demerara rum and cinnamon and underlying polished leather. Lovely dried spice notes and an appetizing salty tang teases the palate on the finish. 

Very fragrant on the nose, and thick on the palate. The flavors are chock full of thick chewy toffee, chocolate fudge, roasted nuts, burnt raisin, black currant, and spiced oak. There’s a hint of salt and Earl Grey tea on the finish. Very dynamic. 

Distilled in 1969, the oldest Bunnahabhain ever released was matured in second-fill sherry butts. The nose yields sweet resin, marzipan, ginger, glacé cherries, a hint of cloves, and red berries. The silky palate features Jaffa oranges, dark chocolate, prunes, and more glacé cherries. The finish dries steadily, with slightly bitter tea, white pepper, a savory note, and quite subtle oak tannins for a dram of this vintage. (198 bottles)

Often overshadowed by other noisier neighbors, it is time to reconsider Caol Ila—and this is a fine place to start. Coming from a refill cask it has a nose of sweet crab, ham with cider glaze, and teasing maritime smoke. The palate mixes salt taffy with top-end peppery olive oil, allowing the flavors to cover the palate while the smoke rumbles along constantly before a salt-laden finish. Superlative balance. Find one of those 620 bottles! £85	

More smoke than is common from this distillery and age. The aromas are food-related: initially roast ham with caramelized sugars, then a clambake, then oven-roasted lobster. With water, a distinct whiff of the goat shed (nice, by the way). The palate is refined and mature, but with fresh fruits retained, with oak and smoke beautifully integrated. A mature Caol Ila in similar vein to the excellent (and significantly more keenly priced) 25 year old. (7,638 bottles)

Straw color. Fresh, appetizing aroma. Light-medium body. Nicely balanced flavors. Both the aroma and palate express notes of spices (Dijon mustard), brine, exotic peppers, caramel, and fruit. Lingering finish. 

Very dry, fragrant and spicy. Medium bodied, but firm. Initial, flirtatious notes of honey, creamy caramel and oatcakes quickly become dry and arid, with a foundation of leather and oak shavings. The whisky is peppered throughout with notes of anise, coffee, dried herbs and undertones of Madeira. Very forward and bullishly dry for its age, and more intense than the standard Cragganmore bottling. It’s rare for a whisky this young to be so complex. 

Independent bottlings of Cragganmore are hard to come by, and this one is a beauty. Cragganmore is not rich, heavy, or sweet like many Speyside whiskies. This one is medium-bodied, yet firm. It is clean on the palate throughout (with a brief honeyed vanilla note before becoming dry), and it is loaded with spice and dried fruits that continue to evolve. Long, lingering, finish. The decision to forego chill-filtering certainly reveals more of this whisky’s subtle, yet persistent, complexity. 

This expression of The Dalmore Constellation spent its entire 33 years of maturation in an ex-bourbon cask, with no additional finishing. The result is a nose of ripe peaches and pears, honey, and vanilla. Full-bodied, rich, sweet, elegant, yet substantial on the palate, with pineapples and fudge. Oak and aniseed slowly build, but the wood is held at bay. Long and warming in the finish, with soft spices. Barely drying. Cask number 594; 199 bottles. 

The Dalmore spirit that comprises Ceti comes from a mix of bourbon and sherry casks, with bourbon wood predominating. 23 years of maturation in American oak were followed by seven years in 30 year old Gonzalez Byass Matusalem oloroso sherry butts. The result is a nose of old leather, hessian, sandalwood, vanilla, plain chocolate, and ripe Jaffa oranges. Very full-bodied, with burnt orange, pineapple, and sticky toffee, while the finish offers ginger, orange wine gums, and old oak. 1,000 bottles. £1,250

Dalmore 25 year old comprises spirit matured initially in American oak casks, some of which is then transferred into first-fill bourbon barrels, while the remainder goes into Palomino fino sherry butts. The two batches are then reunited in bourbon barrels before a final finishing in tawny port pipes. Vanilla, figs, toffee, and ripe oranges on the festive nose, while the palate features more orange, peaches, milk chocolate, and sherry. The chocolate darkens in the lengthy finish, with ginger and licorice.

This veteran expression from Deanston Distillery was matured in refill bourbon casks before spending no fewer than 10 years in oloroso sherry butts. Rose petals, fresh pineapple, clotted cream, cinnamon, and dusty oak on the enticing nose. Unctuous in the mouth, with apple pie, cinnamon, hazelnuts, and ginger. Drying slowly to pleasing fruity, tannic notes. Extremely long finish, with a persistent citric tang. (Less than 500 bottles globally)

There have been a lot of old, heavily sherried, independently bottled Glen Grant whiskies on the market over the past several years. This one appears to be from a refill sherry cask, as its influence is more subtle. It has aged well, showing no excessive oak, but plenty of fruit (summer fruits, dried citrus, stewed fruits, tangerine, golden raisin), balanced by polished oak, grape skin, and subtle dark chocolate. Distinctively pleasing. Don’t add too much water, though, as it breaks down. (A Kensington Wine Market exclusive.) $500 (CAD)

This is quite different from the Adelphi Glen Grant bottling (below), being more cask-driven, but Glen Grant’s clean fruitiness remains, although transformed by age. Its apples are baked, with some added caramelized juices thrown in; we see apricot alongside dried lemon peel, and light, sweet spice. The waxiness here is akin to leather oil, while the oak has sufficient grip to give structure. In time, there are hints of the cellar — burlap and wet earth. Delicious, and best neat. £184

Created by Dennis Malcolm to celebrate his half century at Glen Grant, this uses casks
from each of his five decades. Pale it may be, but this is no dainty little
thing. There’s lots of buttery oak before classic Glen Grant lift and energy
emerge: green apple, fruit blossom, William pear, and yellow fruits; lemon
butter icing and nettles with water. The palate is vibrant and energetic, but
holds to the middle of the tongue. A suitably celebratory dram.
Congratulations! £115

If every fan of sherried whisky has a favorite GlenDronach then this is a long way down the road to being mine. It has a dusty dried orange peel, powdery, and perfumey nose, a soft and sweet round palate with a dark chocolate, tangerine, and pink grapefruit heart, and a balanced and gentle finish. This was probably once a hollerin’ maned lion of a malt, but it’s grown old gracefully and it now purrs and growls beautifully. £80 

The latest batch of cask strength GlenDronach should make Aberlour a’bunadh look to its laurels. It is matured in a combination of Pedro Ximenez and oloroso sherry casks. The nose is quite perfumed, with sweet sherry, figs, nutmeg, satsumas, and candied peel. Voluptuous in the mouth, with early bright fruit notes, cinder toffee, and caramel, followed by darker sherry and raisin notes. Lightly peppery and tannic, with plain chocolate. £55

A nose of bold sherry, worn leather, figs, malt, white pepper, and ginger. Ultimately, a mildly savory note. Full-bodied on the palate, with overripe damsons and more ginger; spicy sherry and dried fruits develop. Medium to long in the finish, with persistent prickly spices, black coffee, and fragrant oak. (240 bottles for the U.S.)

Sherry butt once more, but this is much more relaxed in its attentions — think Montgomery Clift seducing Elizabeth Taylor rather than De Niro chatting up Liza Minelli. Sweetness is the key here, gentle and slightly caramelized, with touches of molasses-like concentration and even a whiff of the top of a crème brûlée. The palate surprises with its continued freshness; apple and the distillery’s distinctive earthy richness. Great balance.£382

The youngest of this Family Cask selection shows Glenfarclas in a surprisingly citric light, with plenty of citrus peels — tangerine, marmalade, and orange syrup, as well as sultana, suede, wax polish (surprising in a youngish dram), and chocolate — a recurring theme here. It is almost as if all the more lifted elements in each of the previous casks have here united. Mature, but highly expressive, and a great starter.  £172

Although the youngest of the range, this has still spent 24 years in a refill butt.  The nose is highly concentrated, with freshly-sharpened pencils and black cherry. There’s also some tobacco and then an earthy, armagnac-esque pruniness. Water brings out a resinous element, supple leather, and fruit syrups, allowing it to retain complexity. The driest of the range with the most obvious grip; for lovers of big, sherried, malts. £225

Weighty and deep. Instantly seductive: vanilla pod, rich fruits, the smell of fur coats. A femme fatale of a malt. A base of crisp malt mixes with oak to give balance and structure. Water brings out apple leaf, even a little grassiness. The palate is broad and balanced, with real sweetness and a tongue-coating quality which softens to dried fruit, earthy density, with a whiff of smoke. Redolent with the aroma of a dunnage warehouse. A class act.

Just pause for a moment before tasting. 50 years. What has happened in the world during that time? How have you changed? What has it done to the whisky? Added a quiet elegance. It brings to mind elements of long-dried concentrated fruit and nut, damson, even smoke. The tannins are initially dusty, but a splash of water adds a fresh potpourri perfume. Is it expensive? For something that’s spent 50 years in a cask? No, it isn’t. (937 bottles) £1800

This latest vintage release from Glen Garioch is a cask strength 25 year old. It follows on from previous ‘small-batch’ 1978, 1990, 1991, and 1994 vintages. Peaches and ginger on the nose, with fudge and a wisp of smoke. Mildly herbal. Full-bodied, rich, and sweet in the mouth. Fresh fruit and violet creams. Finally a slightly earthy, peaty note. The finish is long and gently smoky. Robust, yet refined.

Quite fragrant, with a thick, oily texture. Sweet notes (vanilla, sticky toffee), ripe barley, earthy peat, licorice root, and a hint of melon and citrus. Very clean and characterful. A lot of fun to drink. Nicely done! I can’t imagine a 14 year old Glen Garioch tasting any better than this. (A Julio’s Liquor Exclusive) 

A polished whisky, light-medium in body with well-rounded flavors. Fruity (ripe orange, lemon gumdrops, candy apple), with creamy vanilla and a honeyed, toasted malt foundation. Soft, gentle oak throughout. What a lovely, gentle-natured whisky, straight down the middle! Bonus points for versatility. 

The initial release in Glenglassaugh’s new ‘The Chosen Few’ range has been picked by customer accounts manager Ronnie Routledge. It was distilled in 1976 and matured in an ex-sherry butt that yielded 654 bottles. Initially, an aroma of Black Twist tobacco and treacle, with sweeter and more floral notes following on. Significant honey influence. Mouth-coating, with sweet sherry and tropical fruits, plus developing honey and spice notes. Oak, toast, and dark chocolate in the lingering, lively finish. £300

Glenglassaugh has altered its policy of offering single cask expressions of its 40 year old, and replaced these with a vatting of casks to provide an ongoing release program, offered at cask strength and without chill filtration. The nose is pleasingly complex, with ginger, honey, milk chocolate, icing sugar, sherry, plums, and new leather. Resinous on the palate, with pineapple and brittle toffee, then black coffee and aniseed. A spicy oakiness ultimately develops. Drying steadily in the finish, with licorice and oak tannins. £1,200

Credit to Glengoyne for coming up with something different. There are just 100 bottles of this malt available this year, with a further 100 or so released each Christmas from the same cask each year until 2014, effectively offering malt enthusiasts the chance to plot a work in progress. Better still, this first effort is one of the best releases ever to come out of the distillery.
The name is spot on; it really is Christmas in a glass, with the almost feminine aromas of rosewater, flowers, candy stick, and fruit giving way to a huge sherry note on the palate. Dark chocolate, cherry, orange, and chili notes combine to offer up a bold and full malt. Some special bottlings from Glengoyne have been over-oaky or marred by sulfur, but not this one. This is clean, pure, and classy. Can’t wait to see where it goes next.

The latest addition to Glengoyne’s permanent range is a 25 year old, matured in European oak sherry casks and presented in non-chill filtered format. Syrup-like on the nose, very sweet, with milk chocolate, ginger, Jaffa oranges, and sticky toffee pudding. Smooth and sweet on the palate, with overt sherry, sultanas, and gentle spice. The finish is medium to long, with a hint of oak, old leather, and lingering cloves. Bold, yet elegant. £250

A very clean whisky, with fragrant dried flowers, aromas of germinating barley, textured honey, vanilla waver, coconut cream and teasing fresh pineapple. Drying, delicately minty finish. For those who love the richly elegant, non-sherried style of older Glenlivet whiskies. 

Aged exclusively in first-fill bourbon casks and bottled unfiltered and at natural cask strength. This takes the usually subtle Glenlivet and makes it more vibrant, amplifying its flavors while accentuating the bourbon oak. Tight notes of honeyed malt, vanilla bean, toasted oak, bright fruit, and nuts, are peppered with more subtle floral and spice notes. Dry, spicy finish. A Glenlivet with pizzazz.

Antique amber color. This whisky maintains the elegance cherished by Glenlivet enthusiasts, but finishing the whisky in limousin oak produces a whisky of deeper wood notes, particularly wood spices (vanilla, sandalwood, perhaps even mint) and floral notes. It’s rich, complex, and dry-especially on the finish. 

Younger bottlings of Glenlivet are often quite elegant and subtle. But such finesse isn’t always evident in older expressions, which often become dominated by sherry and oak. This one, at 35 years of age, demonstrates plenty of elegance and finesse. What impresses me most about this whisky is that you wouldn’t know it was 35 year old just by taste. It isn’t the least bit tired on the palate, and it is very clean, without the excessive woodiness often found in whiskies of this age. Plus, the balance of flavors is impeccable-vanilla, honeyed malt, peaches, pineapple, heather, and just a touch of oak. A very polished, refined whisky. 

You would expect any 70 year old whisky to be crepuscular, dense, and wooded. Not here. The nose is amazingly fresh — distillery character fully intact — with layers of rancio and heavy florals. In time, there’s candle wax, vanilla, milk chocolate, and a touch of leather, even the whiff of a soft mink stole. Concentrated and complex. The palate is like an ancient vin santo with oxidized nuttiness, quince and medlar, and subtle peat. Hugely expressive on the palate, with a sweet finish. Truly remarkable. 

A first-fill American oak hoggie was the receptacle for the representative from the 1960s. The cask has provided an extremely relaxed environment for maturation to take place, with a return of the pineapple (grilled on a barbecue this time), along with linden blossom, cream, green jasmine tea, and mint. The effect is like a grown up 1991. The maturity kicks in on the palate — thick and slow with some sandalwood alongside honeysuckle. Gentle and clean, and again not one to dilute. £750

Waves of fruit (apple pie, orange marmalade, sultana, ripe pineapple), accented with notes of dark chocolate, roasted nuts, and spice (cinnamon, vanilla, ginger, evergreen), particularly on the finish. (In the past, I’ve thought that a couple of these limited edition Glemorangie wood finishes were a little overdone with the finishing, but not this one). 

Style: Highland single malt scotch Color: Golden honey Aroma: Lush and mouthwatering. Notes of honey, peaches in syrup, golden raisins, coconut, vanilla, and background resinous oak. Palate: Creamy and velvety in texture. Honey and fruit up front, with some oak notes, wood resins and vanilla mid-palate, becoming sweet again with a soothing finish. 

The first of Glenmorangie’s new “Private Collection” line of whiskies for Travel Retail. This one is finished in Pedro Ximenez (PX) sherry. With PX being so rich and intense, and Glenmorangie spirit so subtly complex and delicate, does the sherry dominate here? No, it doesn’t. Still, this is viscous and very textural for a Glenmorangie. I’m picking up rhum agricole drenched with honeyed apricot, toffee almond, chocolate-covered raisin, glazed citrus, and cherry pits, all leading to a leathery, tobacco-tinged finish. A visceral whisky with plenty of grip. Great for after dinner.

Ealanta is the fourth release in Glenmorangie’s Private Edition series, and has been aged in heavily-charred virgin white oak casks from Missouri for nineteen years. The result is a nose of American cream soda, milk chocolate, fudge, pineapple, and honey; spicy and creamy. Silky smooth in the mouth, with brittle toffee and orange notes; gently herbal, with a suggestion of cloves and newly-sawn wood. Long in the finish, with citrus fruit, oak, aniseed, and an enduring spicy creaminess.  

Companta—Gaelic for friendship—is the fifth of Glenmorangie’s Private Edition releases. It comprises a blend of whiskies finished in Clos de Tart Grand Cru wine casks and in fortified wine casks from Côtes du Rhône. Big fruity, leathery notes on the nose. Spicy, with sultanas, almonds, and icing sugar. The palate is rich and complex, with cocoa powder, nutmeg, more leather, and redcurrants. Long and fruity in the finish, with vibrant spices. Red berries predominate.

Amber gold color. Rich aromas of complex fruit and vanilla. Thick and rich in body, with a mouth-coating texture. Flavors of honeyed malt, well structured fruit, and vanilla, with a long finish. 

Amber color. Lush, rich aromas of rummy toffee, nuts, vanilla, with interwoven notes of glazed fruit. On the heavy side of medium in body, and silky. There are layers of sweetness on the palate (toffee, caramel, marzipan and dates), becoming nutty with a pleasing oak woodiness to balance the sweetness. Long, dryish finish with notes of spice and fruit. 

Immediately you can tell this is a complex, old, mature whisky — that hint of rancio is there, but there’s more of a beeswax character than on the Adelphi bottling (below), along with the peachiness that often appears in old drams. This is balanced by light coconut, even a hint of grist. The waxiness seen on the nose allows it to cling to the tongue, while the fruits become jellied. Benefits from a drop of water, allowing lemon and vanilla to show. £210

The oldest of a new three-strong range from Glenrothes called the Manse Brae series; the youngest component here is 21 years old. Serious and lightly meaty, the savory characters come at you, mixing gun smoke with cypress, sandalwood, dark chocolate, and dunnage warehouse. The headiness of moist forest floor continues on the tongue along with a burst of honeyed peach. Moving in many directions simultaneously…and slowly. Keep this neat. Classic Rothes. (Travel Retail exclusive.) €140

A new expression due out in March, positioned between the 12 and 18 year old versions. A fresh and enormously drinkable whisky; very silky, with honeyed malt, delicate citrus and berry fruit, floral notes (heather and lavender), and a hint of cocoa and sea spray. 

Highland Park 12 Year Old boasts individuality and complexity, thanks in part to the use of Orcadian peat in the distillery floor maltings and the employment of ex-sherry casks for maturation. The nose is fragrant and floral, with hints of heather and some spice. Smooth and honeyed on the palate, with citrus fruits, malt, and distinctive tones of wood smoke in the warm, lengthy, slightly peaty finish.

Thor is the first in Highland Park’s new cask strength Valhalla Collection, with a fresh expression inspired by the Nordic gods due to be released annually over the next four years. Ginger, sherry, Christmas spices, wood smoke, vanilla, and a hint of lemon on the complex, confident nose. Notably spicy in the mouth, with peaches, clotted cream, sherry, and more smoke. Long in the finish, with lots of ginger, a little aniseed, and finally, spicy peat.  

Fire is the first Highland Park expression to be fully matured in “refill port wine-seasoned casks” and it carries a 15 year age statement. Very fruity on the nose—raspberries and prunes —plus lightly-smoked pineapple and vanilla. More smoky, spicy fruit features on the palate, with a light sprinkling of cinnamon. The peat dries to leave ashy licorice and black pepper in a lingering finish. The port is pleasingly discreet. (4,938 bottles for the U.S.)

This vintage expression from Jura has been matured in three first-fill bourbon casks and then finished for one year in a ruby port pipe. Just 498 bottles have been released. Apricots, pineapple, caramel, butterscotch, sultanas, and white chocolate on the nose. The palate is warm and spicy, with subtle pine and citrus fruits, along with coconut and a hint of peat. Long in the finish with more vanilla before dried fruits and oak kick in. The delicate peat remains.

The aromas are tightly bound, but a little water releases them nicely. A powerful dram, with tarry, leafy, coal ash, caramel apple, and driftwood notes; even a little soapy (not necessarily a negative). More subtle floral notes (heather, violet), Earl Grey tea, and smoked fish. Long, damp peat smoke and charcoal finish.

It’s been quite a year for Lagavulin; a 25 year old is due (but no sample at the time of writing). This was a 6,000-strong bottling, aged in refill hoggies and ‘bodega’ butts. Initially restrained and mildly oxidized, it shows angelica, a spritz of lemon juice on potted shrimp, then fennel pollen and water mint. The smoke is pulled back. The palate has orchard fruits, creosote, and moss. Lagavulin’s top notes accentuated, but with the depth of age. £125

Very smooth for Laphroaig -- the extra aging has mellowed this whisky. Soothing honeyed malt, creamy vanilla, and toffee provide a bed for peat smoke, charcoal, and tar; along with more subtle brine, smoked seaweed, anise, ginger, and citrus. A gentler, creamier, more tactile, less medicinal Laphroaig when compared to some of its siblings. Will you prefer the new 18 year old to the 15 year old it is replacing? That depends. I enjoy the balance and subtle complexity of flavors with the 15 year old, but I also like the enhanced richness and mouth-coating creaminess of the 18. The higher strength (and no chill-filtering) of the 18 is certainly a bonus. (Side note: I know this is a moot point now, but I would like to have seen the 15 year old bottled at 48%, rather than 43%.)

Similar to Laphroaig Quarter Cask, but also finished in oloroso sherry casks. Fruit and smoke: fleshy red berries, red licorice, toffee, ripe barley, coal tar, sun-baked seaweed, peat smoke, and a hint of coffee grounds. Tarry finish. I rated the Quarter Cask a 91, and I think this whisky is similar in quality. If you like sherry-influenced whiskies, then go for the Triple Wood. If not, then consider the Quarter Cask. (Currently exclusive to Travel Retail and European specialist retailers.)

A (very) special anniversary bottling, this is old-style, brooding Laphroaig. Fully mature and rich, it shows that classic roiling mass of kelp, oil, and brine, always balanced by sweetness: in this case autumn berry fruits. Malt adds a crunchiness. The palate is gentle and slow with the characteristic camphoraceous lift of bog myrtle on the back palate, which is all that remains of the smoke. Pricey, yes, but rare. Get saving!

The 18 year old is Loch Lomond’s flagship single malt and marks the improvement in quality from this distillery during recent years. The nose offers peaches and vanilla, mild spice, pipe tobacco, and a hint of sweet wood smoke. Nicely textured, with bold, sweet, citrus fruit flavors, vanilla, almonds, and cocoa. Nutty, gently spicy, with cocoa and a hint of coffee in the lengthy, subtly peated finish.

Having replaced the 16 year old Longmorn with a no age statement Distiller’s Choice, owner Chivas Brothers reintroduced the16 year old. Vanilla, milk chocolate, and honey on the nose, plus quite intense sweet pear and apple notes. More rich fruit notes on the nicely textured palate, with vanilla and milk chocolate carrying over from the nose, plus raisins. The finish is long and silky smooth.

Antique amber color. Aromas of toffee and malt, with interwoven dried fruit, flowers, and spices-a real potpourri. Rich, lush body. Rich flavors of toffee, wood resin spices, and citrus, finishing with notes of malt, toffee, and a hint of leather and smoke. 

This is like a blast from the past, with much in common with the sherried Cask Strength of old, and a welcome treat for any fan of the big, sherried Macallans. All the red berry and blood orange notes are present on the nose, along with cocoa and a dusty smokiness. The palate is full, velvety and chewy, with Christmas cake, oranges, and some nuttiness. Nutmeg and cinnamon fill out the mouth feel, before a long and classic sherried finish. 

On more familiar ground with this G&M bottling of one of Speyside’s most iconic single malts, this is Macallan in full-on sherried form. Highly aromatic with powdered clove, hints of incense and fig, behind which is cacao, Bolivar cigar, and molasses. The palate has immediate smoke and surprisingly gentle tannins — the inherent oiliness of the spirit keeping any grip at bay. Very long, leathery, prune-like (think armagnac), and dense. A classic after-dinner mouth-filler.

Here is Macallan in full-blown masculine mode. Initially it seems tight and (sherry) cask driven, but soon you are taken into a winter kitchen with scents of venison, and appropriate rowanberry edges adding a sweet and sour fruitiness. That wild berry note is given another nudge by a whiff of burning juniper. The palate shows it to be thick with a quivering mass of black fruits, and a finish of molasses and licorice. A feast. £75

Rooted in the earth and redolent of late autumn. There’s a plummy thread that runs through this range; here we’ve gone to prune, mixed with dried cherries, and a sweet/savory edge whose whiff of heavy rose petal is reminiscent of Barolo. Robust, yet sweet. Heady, like chocolate-covered Turkish Delight. The palate has oloroso notes alongside Assam-like tannins. One to have with water on the side. Classical in structure and aromatics, but that vinous sweetness is new.  £120

This straddles the existing Sherry Oak and Fine Oak ranges by being a mix of spirit matured in both European and American oak sherry casks. Earthy sherry and old leather on the nose, with toffee, polished oak, and cherry blossom. Medium to full-bodied, with sherry, orange, cocoa, nutty vanilla, and developing wood spices on the honeyed palate. The finish is creamy, with insistent spices, cocoa, and tangy oak.

This limited release was aged in seven cask types—both American and European oak in a variety of sizes—from four Spanish bodegas: Vasyma, Diego Martin, Jose Miguel Martin, and Tevasa. Citrus fruits, ginger, black pepper, light smoke, and rubbery leather on the nose. Ultimately, carnations. The palate is rich, nutty, and sweet, with malt, toffee, sticky sherry, maraschino cherries, milk chocolate, and gentle spice. Long in the finish, with spices and creamy cocoa.

The third release in Macallan’s annual Edition series—which focuses on aspects of cask influence—was matured in a mix of European and American oak casks. Figs and apricot jam, vanilla, Jaffa oranges, and cinnamon on the nose. The palate is silky and offers a big citrus fruit hit, Bit-O-Honey, then creamy milk chocolate. Milk chocolate persists through the long, fruity finish, with attendant sweet oak.

Rich amber in hue, sweet, and mellow with initial amontillado sherry notes that give way to Mortlach meatiness; here a lamb tagine with prune, apricot, and gravy juices. This elegance gives way to a fascinating palate mix of the sweet and the savory with citrus, sultana, and a rowanberry jab on the end mingling with just a bit of smoke. Everything mellowed by time and oak. Very good indeed. £99

The introductory expression of the range shows a further example of the widening of the Mortlach style. Stewed and dried fruits mingle with light earth notes, wet Labrador, supple shoe leather, and varnish. A drop of water is all that’s needed to add a savory element and even some funky fruitiness reminiscent of cooking agave. The palate is big and chocolaty with some meat underneath. Hefty but elegant. The distillery character is not only intact, but enhanced. £55/500 ml

This is Rare Old at higher strength for folks who haunt Travel Retail outlets. The upping of strength also changes the dynamic, making things sweeter with mushed berries and Seville orange, but also deeper, with more overt meatiness, stewed tea, and the same varnished note. Dense, thick, stewed orchard fruits are on the palate alongside some acetone and, with water, burning rosemary and dry licorice. Similar, but with more heft. £75/500 ml

The seventh limited edition release of Port Ellen whiskies by Diageo. Not as vibrant and intense as younger bottlings (particularly on the nose), but nicely matured with a satisfying sweet foundation. Notes of toffee and roasted nuts permeate though the peat kiln smoke, coal tar, fish nets, and charred oak. Seaweed and brine, more reserved mid-palate, emerges noticeably on the finish. The Port Ellen bottlings are getting older (the distillery closed in 1983) and they are getting more expensive. This one still captures the essence of Port Ellen. 

These Port Ellen whiskies are becoming increasingly rare since the distillery closed down for good in 1983. This is a very good example of an old-fashioned Islay whisky: never heavy, but with lots of kick. There’s plenty of wet leaf, bonfire smoke, coal tar, and some earthy, damp kiln notes and brine. But you’ll discover a lovely honeyed maltiness for balance, along with tangerine, dirty martini, and cocoa for complexity. Smoky, briny finish. There will be a time when some of us will tell the next generation of whisky drinkers about the joys of Port Ellen. Mare sure you’re one of those telling the story, not listening to it. (Exclusive to Kensington Wine Market.) $250 (Canadian)

Port Ellen, for sure! Very old-fashioned in nature: intertwined notes of tarry rope, coal soot, rooty peat, toffee, dark chocolate, and walnuts, spiked with coffee bean, anise, cracked peppercorn, and a hint of ginger. Dry, smoky, long, slightly austere finish. This Port Ellen is a bit moody (maybe even has an attitude problem), but I’m not complaining.

Recently bottled by Duncan Taylor in their non-colored, non-chill filtered NC2 range, this 13 year old expression of Springbank initially exhibits tinned pears on the nose, then smoked fish cooked in butter, coconut oil, brine, and a hint of lemon. More sweet wood smoke with time, turning to char. The palate opens with profound, sweet fruit, swiftly followed by salt, lime, and medicinal notes. Lingering, with ginger in the pleasantly oaky finish. £64

The latest limited release of 21 year old Springbank has been matured in a mix of bourbon and sherry casks. Sherry and bourbon notes are well integrated on the early nose, which follows up with succulent tropical fruits, toffee, and a whiff of earthy peat. The palate is complex, confident, and oily, with dry sherry notes, almonds, figs, vanilla, wood smoke, and a hint of the sea. The lengthy finish boasts caramel, cinnamon, brine, and soft peat. £182

Antique gold color. A pleasingly aromatic aroma of dried fruit, floral notes, malt, and light toffee. Medium in body, and slightly chewy. Its flavors are well-balanced, deep, and complex. Toffee, almonds, and sweet malt notes, with interwoven notes of fruit. The palate ultimately dries out with dried fruit, herbs and nuts on the finish. 

This is one of a trio from Chivas Bros., who every year release limited editions of 500 ml cask strength bottlings from a selection of its estates. These are predominantly only for sale on site or by mail order through www.maltwhiskydistilleries.com.

My pick of this batch. Strathisla’s a small, traditional distillery whose make is mostly pressed into service for the Chivas Regal blends. It’s a hard to pin down malt, and it’s this elusive character that shows here: firm then soft, fragrant then deep. The nose is intense and spicy with wax, nougat, chocolate, hazelnut, and fresh-opened banana. The palate is explosive with real presence and power, whose firm core is softened by honey and poached fruits. Complex is the word. £37

Fresh, vibrant. Appetizingly briny, with notes of seaweed, fishnets, lemongrass, smoke, and damp peat. A bed of light toffee provides contrast and balance. It finishes with a knockout punch: powerfully peppery and salty. This whisky remains a beautifully dynamic and bold whisky. 

Matured in amoroso casks. The amoroso softens Talisker’s fiery personality and adds a gentle sweetness not normally found in Talisker. There’s a lot going on here-notes of toffee and dark chocolate, layered with bitter orange, seaweed, kippers, smoked nuts, damp peat, and kalamata olives, finishing with a peppery glow. Not an every day dram-one has to be in the mood for a whisky like this. (With sausages during brunch, perhaps?) 

For me, Talisker 30 year olds have paled in comparison to the same distillery’s 20 and 25 year olds. This, however, immediately shows promise. Gold in color, and while it’s another one that starts ever so slightly restrained, the giveaway peppery note soon reveals itself as smoked pimento and Szechuan pepper, mixed with extra virgin olive oil spread over hot smoked salmon. There’s also a touch of putty — something which you usually only see in youthful expressions — suggesting that here’s another refill maturation. 
As with many of these older whiskies, water isn’t the best option for the palate, but a drop does help release the sweet fruitiness that always lurks in Talisker’s heart, this time accompanied by an herbal note (mint and fennel). It’s almost as if it is looking back at itself as an 18 year old, but here the firm granitic grip of age takes hold.
The palate starts slowly but opens well with a gentle, yet assertive revealing of the aromas on the nose. It seems to dip in energy just in the center before sparking back to life when the smoke emerges, like the last flash of defiance from an old-timer. 

Another that should need no introduction. The thing to look for in Talisker, as with all smoky whiskies, is sweetness that gives the requisite balance to the drying effect of smoke. Underneath Talisker’s smoke, which ain't as all-pervading as Lagavulin, is a sweet pear-like quality. When young there are notes of the land: heather, moor, sweet seaweed, and a finish that has a distinctive cracked black pepper hit.

A whisky that defies its age. It is remarkably clean and fresh, with no suggestion of excessive oak. Fragrant aroma, with notes of vanilla, coconut, honeyed malt, cereal grain, and linseed. Similar follow through on the palate, with a texture that is soft, lightly oily, and soothing. Clean finish. One of the best Tamdhu whiskies I’ve tasted. 

Ian MacLeod’s first release of Tamdhu was a belter. Now, finally, it’s been joined by this high-strength NAS. There’s no hint of the high strength on the nose, which is all caramel toffee and shortbread, backed with sultana-like sherry cask influence. The palate is the same: nut, dark fruits, and date. Hugely approachable. With water, it’s a matter of…chocolate? Maltesers! All you want in a sherried whisky, and it won’t burn a hole in your wallet either. £60

Antique gold color. Fragrant aroma, with floral notes, soft honey tones, vanilla, and delicate fruit (orange and lemon). Light to medium in body and soft in texture. Flavors are similar to the whisky's aroma, very clean, and with great balance-the woody notes one would expect from a whisky this old are kept in check.

This is the oldest core expression of Tomintoul’s Gentle Dram, now available in the U.S. It is a classic of this style of Speyside single malt. Peaches, malt, honey, vanilla, and developing floral notes on the nose. Full-bodied, with ripe apples, cocoa, milky coffee, honey, vanilla, and soft spices. Spicy and drying, with plain chocolate in the relatively lengthy, mellow finish.

According to the Christie family who owned North of Scotland Distillery before it was sold to DCL in 1982 (and closed it shortly thereafter,) they would purchase the least expensive grain possible to make their grain whisky. In 1964, it was barley. The barley, combined with the fact that the whisky is finished off in port casks, makes for a surprisingly rich, sweet, and fruity grain whisky, expressing notes of demerara sugar, perfumed candles, cherry almond tart, caramel and vanilla. Remarkably restrained wood notes for such a mature whisky, which expresses itself mostly in its soft, creamy finish. Unique among whiskies. 

The Real McCoy! It's said that during Prohibition Bill McCoy serviced the better speakeasies with proper Cutty Sark; hence the name. If this is a recreation of what they might have been drinking back then, you can see why they kept fighting over it. This is another bold, earthy, smoky blend with oily, industrial notes. There's crabapple, smoke, bitter lemon, grapefruit, and even black currant. It would seem blended whisky is where it's at right now! Great stuff.  

Imagine sipping this sophisticated libation at the supper club turned out in your best bib and tucker. There’s a purity to it, with aromas of fresh red apples, raisins in honey, ground cinnamon, and nutmeg, leading to bitter orange oils and a storm of black pepper fading to tropical fruit, layered caramel, and sugared almonds. Hold this long in the mouth, as it possesses a changing, multi-faceted character. As Cab Calloway said, “This is Hep.” (3,456 bottles) £650

Matured in first-fill oloroso sherry casks, this is 20% peated whisky from 1997 and 80% fruitier whisky distilled in 2001. Earthy on the early nose, with bonfire smoke, vanilla, raisins, and prunes. The palate opens with sweet fruit notes and medium-dry sherry, giving way to nutmeg, brine, and peat. The finish features plain chocolate, bitter lemons, and a hint of smoky chili. £85

This (rather young) Islay distillery’s second release. Like the first, it’s aged for about three years and then finished in sherry casks—this time for a shorter two and a half months. Its flavor is similar to the first release.
Once again, I am quite impressed. It’s very mature for its age, with good viscosity, showing smoldering peat, coal tar, black licorice stick, burnt dark berried fruit, thick-cut marmalade, shoo-fly pie (think molasses), toffee apple, cocoa powder, cinnamon, and a suggestion of wet sheep. Long, peat smoke finish.£47

This is the sixth—and oldest—limited annual release of Loch Gorm, distilled in 2009 and aged in oloroso sherry butts. The nose is earthy, with raisins, dry spices, smoldering peat, and a not unpleasing hint of rubber. The palate is lively with spices, sherry, cherries, and iodine-soaked peats. Aniseed, sweet sherried peat, and tingling spices in the medium-length finish. (13,500 bottles)

Although one of the old Speyside crew (along with Mortlach, Glenfarclas, and Macallan) Balmenach has, inexplicably in my mind, never even achieved cult status. It has simply kept on making rich, powerful, worm tub-condensed spirit for a multitude of blends. This rare bottling therefore is hugely welcome and shows a friskier than usual side — earthy for sure and a lick of leather as well, but also walnut and sultana. The palate is deep and languorous with a savory edge. £145 (Not available in the U.S.)

This offers a slightly oily nose, with orchard fruits, vanilla, cocoa powder, nutmeg, cucumber sprinkled with white pepper, and very subtle smoke. Powerful flavors of peppery fruit and malt on the palate, with honey, butterscotch, milk chocolate, cinnamon, and mellow oak. The finish is lengthy and redolent of toffee apples.

Aged in a mix of bourbon and sherry casks; the nose is initially relatively reticent, slightly earthy, with a hint of drinking chocolate, emerging sherry notes, and subtle orange. Toffee, more chocolate, and spicy dried fruits on the relatively full-bodied palate. Long in the finish, with wood spices.

Released with no age statement, Fettercairn Fior contains 15 percent heavily-peated whisky matured in first-fill ex-bourbon barrels, along with a proportion of 14 and 15 year old spirit. The result is a bold and complex whisky with real nose presence; smoke, sherry, toffee, vanilla, and oranges merge on the nose, while the palate showcases more smoke and toffee, plus spices, oak, and licorice in the lengthy finish. £36 Not currently available in the U.S.

The last official Convalmore remains one of my top whiskies. Here is a different meditation on age. There’s soft leather, coal smoke, and polished brass. The distillery’s waxiness is a spent candle in a deserted chapel, the harvest festival fruits wrinkling on the altar. Amazingly, in the mouth a shaft of honeyed sunlight comes through to transform the scene into one of life. Everything glows, the wax returns, and then, with the smoke increasing, the light fades. Old, and fascinating. (2,980 bottles)

If Willy Wonka was ever inclined to condense a knickerbocker glory into a dram, it would nose and taste like this: caramel toffee, hints of cocoa, peeled banana, chewy marshmallows, cream, and gooey fudge sauce. The palate has banana, slightly burnt caramel, poached pear, and Banoffee pie layered over mixed peel flavors, adding to its delicious appeal. It’s sweet, dry, smooth, and comforting, like that final satisfying mouthful drained from a mug of hot chocolate. Comfort food for thirsty people.

You have to take your hat off to Berry Bros. & Rudd’s Doug McIvor, who is whisky's answer to Bruce Springsteen: consistently brilliant, complex, spanning the generations, and in the form of his life. This just doesn't let up, with plenty of smoke and peat in the mix, but with citrus fruits, some plummy depths, and a vanilla cushion. It’s balanced perfectly. Born to run? You betcha.

It's not made clear which Islay malts are included in this blended malt, but whoever's responsible for this has brought the big guns. This successfully pulls off an intense one-two, with hard hitting Islay peat and brine on the one hand, and some rich sweetness on the other, making for a mouth-coatingly rich and intense whisky. The malts pack down together like a rugby scrum and combine with impressive intensity. €36

Does it do exactly what it says on the tin? You betcha! This is big, and it's smoky, and if you're a fan of Islay malts, then it's right up your street. There's more to it than just smoke, though. There's stewed apple on the nose as well as steam engine oil, and on the palate there's gooseberry, spearmint, and apple pip. But as you'd expect, the peat lingers. 

So which independent bottler comes out in the 'Big' battle of the Islay blended malts? Given this is bottled at a lower strength and it's at a lower price, I'm calling it a draw. The latest batch of this is the best yet, with Ardbeg, Caol Ila, and Bowmore the main components, although there is also some Port Ellen in the mix. So you know what to expect—and it doesn't disappoint. Big AND peaty.

Brace yourself. This takes peat to the extreme, conjuring up a moist, chocolate slab of peat being cut and lifted out of the bog. So smoky, you will feel like you’re breathing in the dense clouds rising above the smoldering kilns. A punchy thwack of peat at full strength, and even if you cut it with water, it only highlights salty fishboxes and some buttery caramels cowering from the backdraft. A deliberately singular character, but utterly brilliant nonetheless. £46

William Grant & Sons will be releasing a series of Ghosted Reserves in the years ahead, drawing on their remaining stock from closed distilleries. Here, Brian Kinsman has used whisky from Ladyburn and Inverleven to create a nose of zesty key lime pie, peach, butter mintoes, and sweet oak. It is truly moreish, with creamy, malty flavors of sweet mandarin, marzipan, and strawberry with a chalky mouthfeel of candy sticks that lingers through the finish. Exceptionally good whisky. (6,000 bottles)

Toasty granola, rye crackers, barley sugar sweetness, and Murray Mints make for a balanced nose on this top-of-the-range blend representing the art deco elegance of 1920s Shanghai. A gloriously thick texture of rich citrus blossoms bolstered by toffee, lime, pineapple, tropical fruits, and vanilla sugar. Mr. Kinsman has engineered methodical and well-paced complexity here, with emergent little lights of spiciness. A long-lasting, deep orange buzz and dimming spice round off proceedings. A precious joy indeed. £115 Travel Retail exclusive

Swiss-based Chapter 7 released this 19 year old single malt, a marriage of two sherry butts (#796 and #1,476). Malt, sweet sherry, cocktail cherries, milky coffee, and a slightly earthy undertone on the nose. Very rich on the palate, with chewy-sweet soft fruits, notably strawberries, syrup sponge, and lively fruit spices. Mouth-drying in the long finish, with aniseed and wood spice. (1,076 bottles)

Ovaltine, Whoppers, worn leather, antique furniture, medjool dates, and black fruits on the nose. Sipping this whisky is an unexpected delight. Given the olfactory cues of advanced maturity, it’s surprisingly nimble and still light on its toes. A charming opening of crumble filling with red currant, cranberry, raspberry, and strawberry, joined by apple, pear, and sultana, with peppery spice. Chili heat and spicy finish. (Batch 6; 2,000 bottles)

This slippery little rogue exudes sweet popcorn, lemon peel, summer florals, linseed, and Quaker Oats pillows adrift in a sea of butterscotch sauce. Rather tasty; the cask strength alcohol rips through the juicy mandarin and toffee opening, overcoming an active peppery middle section, then relinquishing its grip to leave herbal notes, corn, and fudge. Reverberating lengthy toffee and spice finish. Water brings out more cereal notes and soft orange.

Deep amber. Big, resinous, and almost heathery, with significant cask influence for a decade-old dram. The aroma is like a cobbler’s workshop: oils, leather, grease, polish, and then licorice. On the palate, there’s the prune notes of armagnac, the sweetness and cedar flavors of old rum, and very Rothes-esque spiciness. Water, just a drop, lightens it a little, allowing the underlying sweetness to show. Not cask dominated, just bottled at exactly the right moment. Recommended. £68

Light gold. A beautiful oxidized note, with soft fruitcake, steamed pudding, a little hint of overripe fruits, and sweet spices. As it opens, there’s barley sugar sweets, then custard tart with nutmeg, clover honey, and marzipan. Complex, in other words. Water shows how well-layered it is. It starts sweetly in the mouth with a thick, honeyed texture, which becomes more delicate with water. Elegant, long, and a great example of mature ’Rothes. £80

Immediate rancio notes, with some hazelnut and cheese rind. Added oxidative notes of nuts moves things into Brandy de Jerez territory. Sumptuous stuff, with Miltonduff’s floral character adding a delicate top note, something which is enhanced with water. The tannins are light, allowing a silky feel to predominate, with just enough of a bitter edge to add interest. Very good indeed. £81

This is an amazing link back to Glasgow in the 1970s. Fresh peach, cherry blossom, red Tunes, baked apple, hay bales, acetone, orange peel, and old pepper grinders. A silky texture with red apple, orange oils, and a luxuriantly refined taste leads to apple peelings, caramel, and ginger. Such quality! The finish slips away quietly: melon, peach, fudge, and a final twist of pepper. Bliss! Great to see Douglas Laing bringing out more XOP single grains of such standing. (150 bottles)

As if this cheeky devil from Douglas Laing wasn’t good enough already! Strawberry napoleon, mint leaves rubbed between finger and thumb, runny honey, fresh peach, and wood whittled on the back porch. The sweet orange starts gossamer light, then it hits the gas: the citrus becomes more tangy, touching blood orange, fizzy sweeties become taffy candy, then sherbet. Eventually pacified, it becomes milky and sweet, with milk chocolate melting on the tongue. A creamy finish like a mother’s embrace. £50

An old-style whisky that harkens back to a time when Scotland wasn’t sliced and diced by region, but defined by style. This is meaty with a capital M, with a rich, oily, deep character. On the palate it’s big and beautiful, with salt, oyster shell, honey, roasted green pepper, smoke, dried fruit, beef jerky, leather, and oak. Earthy peat smoke dances throughout, giving support but never stealing focus. This is about as masculine as Highland whisky gets. (U.S. only)

This single cask bottling was distilled in December 1995 and matured in a refill hogshead (#258). Warm, sweet biscuit notes on the nose, plus almonds and tangerines. Substantial on the palate, with vanilla fudge and Jaffa orange. Softly spicy, with developing licorice. Long in the finish, with spicy licorice, plain chocolate, and light tannins. (258 bottles)

The nose is pleasingly floral, with soft spice, malt, heather in bloom, and even a suggestion of violets. Well textured on the palate, oily and nutty, with tropical fruits, honey, milk chocolate, vanilla, and malt. The finish is lengthy, with a hint of citrus and warming spices. (Cask no. 69; 287 bottles)

Light amber. The initial impression is one of bulk. There are heavy florals — think lilies and stewed white fruit, and just-overripe banana — but this is given a mysterious extra heft by an underpinning of a light meatiness, accompanied by a tiny lift of (good) sulfur. The palate is, unsurprisingly, thick and creamy with huge fruit that fills the mouth. A highly physical, old-style Speyside dram with classic distillery character. A statement whisky that is a must-try.

This veteran expression was fully matured in first-fill sherry butts. Fragrant on the nose, with black treacle, prunes, raisins, lanolin, bung cloths, and polished oak. Big stewed fruit and warm leather notes on the palate, soon reeled in by spicy tannic oak, plus licorice and aniseed, though a stubborn dusty fruitiness persists. The finish is lengthy and mouth-drying, with lots of dark oak. A lovely example of its kind. £1,575

This 40 year old was matured in a refill American hogshead. Perfumed on the nose, with vanilla, soft leather, lanolin, and lavender. Watery soft fruits on the palate, with cocoa powder and ginger. The finish offers more cocoa powder, black coffee, and licorice-flavored oak. £500 (191 bottles, The Whisky Exchange exclusive)

Initially, the nose is very different than that of the younger Glen Deverons, with brown paper and malt vinegar. Becoming buttery, with coconut ice and citrus fruit. Ultimately, a caramel note reminiscent of the 16 year old (see below). Rich and waxy on the palate, with dark berry fruits, almonds, vanilla, and treacle. Sweet and sour. The medium-length finish offers green berries and a hint of aniseed. Real depth of flavor and individuality here. Exclusively available to travelers at World Duty Free Group stores in selected airports throughout the UK and Spain.   £250/700 ml

A limited edition cask strength blend of four single casks by Alasdair Day released to mark 100 years since the last entry in their blender’s historic cellar book. The nose has warm caramel, whole orange, and a dry, grassy, and gristy note. Rich orange envelops the mouth with golden caramel, shortbread, and underlying spices of ginger and pepper. Takes water well and retains its character; lots to like here.

Amber. Very meaty, with a touch of cordite, then dark fruits, wet earth, and autumn woods, cut with spicy licorice and Darjeeling tea. Water brings down this exuberance, adding iris and whole grain bread. The palate has typical, full-on Mortlach brawny muscle, with chestnut honey-glazed venison. Water bringing out sweetness, but without ever losing that glowering core. Lovers of the old 16 year old apply here.

An enticing blend of aged single malt and grain whiskies from silent stills, top-dressed with Port Ellen. The nose has soft fudge, rosehip, and honey lozenges, with a thread of peat sewn through it. A distinct smokiness hangs above the glass. A mouthful exudes lemon sherbet, honey-drizzled melon, and white chocolate, peaking with raspberry and mixed peel before a conclusion of banana-layered banoffee pie. An elegant finish of baked lemon and sweet oak. One for reflection. £350

This 1964 distillate has a nose of rich toffee, weighty oak, allspice, antique hardback books, dried apple, cracker bread, and banana chips. A fairy tale taste of red apple perfection, as if Snow White polished it on her skirt. This ripens to encompass gumdrops and lollipops. Golden syrup, lime zest, caramel, and vanilla bleed into a conclusion of nutmeg, oak, and apple peel. An auspicious moment for grain whisky. (752 bottles)

Much of Caol Ila’s malt goes into Johnnie Walker blends, so it’s a rare treat to see a cask strength offering. This release is Caol Ila on steroids, featuring a deeply smoky and meaty nose with bacon, campfire, leather, sea salt, and iodine. On the palate, the smoky fire continues to burn with intense smoke and salt combined with sweet honey malt.  An extremely long finish will have you exhaling smoke long after the dram is gone. (Julio’s Liquors only)

Holy Moly! Where do they find them? Over 40 years old and this seizes your attention with a becoming nose of smoked ham, sweet paprika, and red currant jelly. It’s extremely fruity with just the right level of tartness to keep it in balance; pomegranate, strawberry laces, crystalized fruits, and a nip of licorice adding to the richness and emerging creaminess before a dry finish of Victoria plums. Simply a gorgeous old grain. (300 bottles for UK, Europe, Scandinavia, and Japan) £155

This Kickstarter-funded blend is a very savvy and seamless mix of 40% malt and 60% grain whiskies. Pale gold in color, the nose is inviting, with dried apricot, honey, tangerine, and salt. Everything from the nose comes together on the palate, which is soft and sweet with the right amount of oak and smoke to balance everything out. There's a dash of heat and a solid finish. Who'd ever expect such a smart and affable whisky to come from Kickstarter? (U.S. only)

Peach, meringue, whole apple, runny honey, vanilla, eucalyptus, and spices that are just about to burn in the pan. Lively and fresh Highland whisky flavor proffering sweet honey, cooked apple dusted with icing sugar, lime zest, and a supportive lift of vibrant spices before diffusing into sugary squares of Scottish tablet. Water accentuates the peppermint in the finish and brings out sugary chocolate-mint flavors. One not to miss.

Built between Keith and Dufftown in 1898, but closed at the start of the 30s, Towiemore’s warehouses were still in use until 1993. Fresh peaches and fragrant florals, rich orange, roasted almond chips, and hazelnut. Glenrothes connoisseurs will appreciate this one. Mellow and nutty with a good supple texture; baked peach, dried peel, mango, and light spices, with a candied peel and spice finish.

Incredible! This dark golden dram was distilled in the same year that the Beatles first played in America. An aromatic nose of fruit spangles, gentle acetone, clove, eucalyptus, vanilla pods, and tamarind. Soft, gentle apple flavors with a silky texture; sweet orange, vanilla, ginger, spice, and raspberry. The oak is mouth-puckering unless you add water (and you can). A finish of Starburst chews, although a soft presence, slowly drying from the oak. Simply gorgeous, experiential whisky. (93 bottles) £290

If your glass is half empty, you might overlook this because it is the most expensive single grain Scotch whisky released to date. If your glass is half full, you will relish sweet toffee popcorn, coconut, fresh fruits, linseed oil, and some spicy and nutty notes. Makes sense, as South African white maize was heavily used in the production in the early 1970s. It’s mouth filling, dark and brooding, with plenty of chocolate, oak tannins, char, and layered spice. Sumptuous. (5,060 bottles)

A single cask from the distillery’s peated “Port Charlotte” line of whiskies. Well behaved for such youth. Nice honeyed malt and soft caramel base with good viscosity as a bed for tarry peat, licorice stick, freshly-ground pepper, and cocoa, along with a kiss of sauternes, delicate pit fruit, smoked seaweed, and a lingering coastal accent. Long, warming finish. (A Park Avenue Liquor exclusive.)

This was matured in first-fill sherry, bourbon, French wine, and tempranillo casks. Initial brine on the nose gives way to malt and orchard fruits, sweet smoke, and buttery malt. Sweet, medicinal smoke notes on the early palate, then toffee and peaches drying to aniseed and chili. Long and prickly in the finish, with licorice and black pepper. A complex rendering of Port Charlotte.

Distilled in December 2005 using malt peated to a whopping 167 parts per million, this was matured in a mix of bourbon and Grenache Blanc casks. Old warm leather, rich smoke, developing peaty peach, chocolate-coated toffee, pipe tobacco, and iodine on the powerful nose. Huge peatiness in the mouth, oily, smoky orchard fruits, developing ginger nuts, and sea salt. Warming in the finish, with licorice, gunpowder tea, and ashy peat.

One of four Octomore 08 Masterclass releases, this was distilled in 2011 from Islay barley peated to 309 ppm. Fifty-six percent of the spirit was matured in first-fill bourbon casks, while the remainder was aged in European oak wine casks. Barbecue smokiness on the nose, with wet peat and citrus fruitiness. On the palate, earthy peat, full-bodied red wine, and milk chocolate. Peat smoke to the fore in the finish, with ginger and chili. (18,000 bottles)

Part of anCnoc’s Peaty Collection, Cutter has been distilled from malt peated to 20.5 ppm. The result is a dram with a nose of ashy peat and medicine cabinets, backed by vanilla and canned apricots. Rich peat on the palate, with citrus fruit and crème brûlée. The slightly oily finish is long and bonfire-like.

Sherry finishing influences, from leather satchel, maraschino cherry, floral blossoms, and deep orange notes to a pinch of Chinese Five Spice and buttered ginger loaf. Medium bodied, with a malt content of 75%, it riffs around an orange theme, at times quite sharp, with pith, some bitter grapefruit, more ginger, and herbal strands. Lively spices flicker across the tongue throughout the long finish as the citrus seeps away.

One hundred ten years after the Nimrod expedition, blender Richard Paterson’s adventurous marriage of over 20 Highland malts brings fresh green fruits, manuka honey, vanilla, banana muffin, cantaloupe, fresh herbs, spice, and a wisp of smoke. Refreshing palate of green melon, light honey, vanilla, cinnamon, cooked apple, and gooseberry, becoming sour. More complexity on the finish: spice, smoke, cooked fruits, and chalky Sweethearts candies. Pair with mature prosciutto.

A rare old single grain whisky from Scotland’s most northern grain distillery. The nose brings together varnished oak, clove, dried orange peel, and molasses. On the palate, an unexpectedly lush mouthfeel supports a flavorful combination of citrus, molasses, and varnished oak. This single grain has depth and character that’s completely uncommon to the category, tasting a lot more like an aged rum. A long, acidic, slightly sour, dry, and spicy finish rounds out a unique and intriguing whisky. (U.S. only)

Dry peats tossed on a driftwood fire with coastal aromas of sun-scorched seaweed beside high tide rock pools comprise this refined dram. A momentary glimpse of lighter lemon, lime, and pineapple is quickly snuffed out by the full strength assault. It’s like pulling the pin on a grenade. There’s a dense barrage of peat moss, worn leather, and cocoa at the death. Ride through it to glory. Possibly the highest ABV that Compass Box has ever given us. £120

This radiant, refreshing whisky offers creamy fudge, light vanilla, fresh apple, peach, and biscuit notes on the nose, demonstrating the generosity of the American oak. In the mouth, it’s luscious, balanced, and mouth-coating, with sweet honey, lemon peel, lime zest, and aromatic spices, fattening out briefly before becoming soft as suede, riffing on vanilla, melon, and lemon biscuits. Dry finish with vanilla cream and soft fruits.

Just as complex as Johnnie Walker Gold, but fuller and more richly textured. (Not surprising, given that there are no grain whiskies in Johnnie Walker Green.) This is one of the finer vatted malts on the market. Its flavors are well-integrated. You’ll find creamy toffee and nougat at its core, which is then layered with notes of vanilla, mint, fresh brine, and even a hint of mustard seed. Excitingly fresh and vibrant on the finish. A whisky for both the blend and single malt drinker. And at $55, it is also fairly valued for an all-malt whisky.

A zeitgeist Johnnie Walker fine-tuned for the American palate, this blend has a moreish nose of cinnamon, cocoa, and the toasted coconut of macaroons, mingled with strands of smoke, dried walnut, nutmeg, and an array of spicy rye anchored by a concentrated line of vanilla. Lots of American oak at play here. It’s elegant, dry, and smooth with vanilla, cinnamon, coconut, and flashes of spice. It’s fabulous sipped straight up but keep walking to the finish. Value Pick.

Blender Aimée Gibson’s experimental batch 7 is designed as a sherry finished Black Label. Beautifully smoky, with dried fruits, charred oak, wood spices, vanilla, cocoa, and bonfire smoke. Toffee flavors, with thick smoke, red fruits, orange, raisin, oak spice, gingerbread, marshmallow, strawberry jam, and dark marmalade. Dry finish with bitter peels, dark chocolate, and some feisty spices. In comparison, regular Black Label is silkier, more integrated, and more peppery. (Global Travel Retail only)

Gold-amber color. Toffee, fruit, and a wisp of smoke underpin floral aromas. On the palate, flavors are nicely balanced and harmoniously interwoven. Gently sweet toffee notes up front gradually yield to drier notes on the finish, with soft, delicate fruit flavors throughout. 

A straightforward proposition of honey, vanilla sponge cake, barley notes, hints of apple, fresh banana, melon, and bundles of dry straw. It’s a sweetheart: soft vanilla fudge, heather honey, banana-topped banoffee pie, fudge, vanilla sandwich cookies, barley sugar, and lemon peel, with hardly any spice in the early phase. The finish has a snag of pepper at the end, but this is gorgeously tasty, with smooth vanilla fudge all the way.

Maraschino cherries, red currant, oak bark, and wet slate on the nose after 6 months of finishing. Light, clean opening with cherry and strawberry; a little fig and raisin bring depth. Hints of clove and aniseed dart about, then more oak swells up, though the red fruity sweetness stays in control. A smooth finish of fruit chews, with those spices burning brightly deep in the back of the throat. (769 bottles)

Matured in a bourbon hogshead. Floral nose. Soft, creamy, and elegant, with honeyed malt, custard, subtle butterscotch, and delicate fruit (orange, peach) peppered with spice (powdered vanilla, nutmeg). Well-balanced, gently dry, and easy drinking. A charming whisky (for a lazy Sunday afternoon, perhaps?)

A’bunadh is matured entirely in Spanish oak oloroso butts, non-chill filtered, and bottled at cask strength. This edition is very rich, with dark berry notes on the nose, hazelnuts, caramel, cinnamon, and orange fondant creams. The palate is full and supple, with polished oak, honey, new leather, raisins, prunes, and a hint of cloves. Very long in the finish, with plain chocolate, black pepper, fruity spices, and oak.

Identifiably richer, fuller, and smokier on the nose when compared to other young Ardbegs. While still prominent, there’s slightly less brine and seaweed, more earthiness, tar, soot, espresso, tobacco, grass, and chocolate fudge. The same goes for the palate. It starts out like a “slightly more gutsy than normal” cask strength, young Ardbeg (e.g., Renaissance) and, if you go into this experience expecting to be totally blown away by peat, tar, and smoke, you might feel a bit under-challenged initially. But the peat eventually builds to a powerful, lava-like crescendo and you realize that this is no ordinary Ardbeg. The length of the finish is seemingly endless; bold and warming. Through all this, there’s a soft underbelly of ripe barley and a vanilla sweetness to balance at least some of the tar, heat, and smoke -- something I admire in many Ardbegs.
Bottom line: It’s an interesting, entertaining, and eye-opening experience. I like how mature it tastes for a relatively young whisky. But, like a whisky that shows just a bit too much sherry or oak, I think the extra peat, to a degree, masks the subtle complexities I admire in some other, lesser-peated Ardbegs, which is the only thing keeping me from scoring this whisky in the 90s. All smoky whisky enthusiasts should endeavor to try this at least once.

Deep gold color. Very bold aroma of toffee, dark chocolate, diesel fuel-soaked soil, smoldering campfire, coal tar, clove, leather, fig, and dark berried fruit. More of the same on the palate, with seaweed, smoked haddock, and cough drops emerging towards the finish. This whisky is very dynamic and exciting to drink. My only criticism: it comes across a little green on the finish, which keeps me from scoring it in the 90s. Still, it’s pretty impressive considering how young some of the whiskies in it are. If you like your Islay whiskies young and brooding, this one’s for you.

Let it be known that from now on, June 2nd will be Ardbeg Day. That’s fine by me, as annually we can enjoy delights such as this bold expression that belts you in the nose with coal tar and soot before bay rum emerges, lightening slightly into lime and hot green bracken. The palate is oily, sweet, and very deep. A growly bugger that lurches toward the shore and then spins back to the laurel bushes inland. 13,000 bottles.	

A touch of damp dunnage, some Ardbeggian soot, and plenty of jalapeño-style heat. Shows maturity and depth of character, with just-dead bonfire, ointment, and a sweetness, which here is like honeycomb. Water makes it bolder, with deeper smoke, while the palate has sweet wood, balanced (cigar-accented) smoke, and layers of salt, angelica, and plum. £90/500 ml

Not an unpeated Ardbeg, but a new initiative to raise money for the Kildalton Project which supports community projects in south Islay. Smoke, but also real sweetness: hothouse peaches, mezcal, smoked oyster, sphagnum moss, a huge hit of vetiver, and coal tar. The smoke flies to the throat before fogging forward, while the sweet core (with added raspberry and cream, and mint) moves to the back. A worthwhile dram and a hugely worthwhile cause. Buy for either reason; or both. £120

Distilled at a time when the future of the distillery looked bleak. It is non-chill filtered and mildly herbal on the nose, with soft peat, muted iodine, and a sprinkling of pepper, plus warm leather. The palate is initially peppery, then vanilla and green apples emerge, along with aniseed and rich peat. Peppery to the end, with a hint of iodine and coal smoke.

If I had to back one of the protagonists in Douglas Laing’s latest Duel of the Phial, my money would be squarely on the Ardbeg. The nose delights with oils oozing from the chestnut flesh of a grilled kipper, coiled rope on a trawler’s deck, and hot pressed asphalt, with a gentle background note of roasted peanut and millionaire’s shortbread. Medium texture: lemon and butterscotch, delicious fruitiness, and spearmint on the mid-palate. Clean, creamy with a baked lemon finish. £49

Chapter II of Arran’s The Devil’s Punch Bowl embraces whisky from a total of 27 casks. These are seventeen oloroso sherry hogsheads (from 1997 and ’98), six standard bourbon barrels (2002), and four peated bourbon casks (2004). Juicy dark berries, malt, and soft cinnamon on the nose. Robust and fruity on the palate, with more dark berries, plain chocolate, a suggestion of vanilla, and black pepper. Long and drying in the earthy, mildly smoky finish, with aniseed and licorice.

The Millennium Casks is a non-chill filtered vatting of 45 Arran casks filled on December 31, 1999 and January 1, 2000; 35 bourbon barrels and 10 sherry hogsheads. A spicy, floral nose with sherry, honey, coconut ice, orange, fudge, and ultimately raisin notes. Smooth and luscious on the palate, with apple pie and custard, plus a sprinkling of cinnamon. Long and spicy in the finish, with oranges, a hint of black pepper, licorice, and drying oak. (7,800 bottles). £65

As Arran continues on its trajectory toward introducing an 18 year old expression, just 9,000 bottles of sherry cask-matured 17 year old have been released. Bottled at 46%, it has not been chill filtered. Sweet and fruity on the nose, with ripe pineapples, green apples, malt, and a hint of licorice. Luscious and nicely-textured on the palate. Lots of orchard fruits, sherry, and soft toffee. Mild spice and hedgerow fruitiness in the slightly drying, lengthy finish.

The third and final expression in Arran’s Devil’s Punchbowl trilogy of limited releases is a multi-age bottling, matured in eight oloroso sherry butts, eight French oak barriques, and five bourbon barrels. Only 6,660 bottles are available. Figs, dates, citrus fruits, and honey on the nose, with developing savory notes. Silky sherry, lively cinnamon, and red berries on the palate, with a hint of wood smoke. Lengthy in the finish, with spicy oak.

This expression is the culmination of Arran’s trilogy of 16, 17, and 18 year old releases, matured in sherry hogsheads. It is the oldest ‘house’ offering to date. Floral and fragrant on the nose, with soft fruits and marzipan. Balanced and rounded. Viscous and full-bodied on the palate, with fruit spices, vanilla, sweet sherry, orange marmalade, and finally raisins. Slowly drying to spicy plain chocolate and licorice. (9,000 bottles.)

Following the 2015 limited edition release of 18 year old Arran single malt, an 18 year old has now been added to the core range. It is uncolored and non-chill filtered. The nose is bright with freshly-squeezed orange and lemon juices, honey, and vanilla fudge, plus a fleeting menthol note. The early palate mirrors the fresh fruit-laden nose, with developing ginger, honey, malt, and milk chocolate. Slowly drying in the finish, with plain chocolate, licorice, and charred oak.

This 2017 edition is non-chill filtered and finished in Amarone dry Italian red wine casks. Slightly perfumed on the nose, with a suggestion of madeira, plus malt and ripe pears. Viscous in the mouth; earthy, with plum and dry blackcurrant, black coffee, and plain chocolate, balanced by notes of honey. Mouth-drying in the finish, with a touch of tannic oak.

The latest release in Auchentoshan’s 1970s Vintage Series is this expression, distilled on October 22, 1979 and matured in first-fill oloroso sherry butts for 32 years. Just 1,000 bottles are available (12 bottles for the U.S.). Sweet on the nose, with furniture polish, digestive biscuits, cinnamon, and a faint whiff of old leather. Big tropical fruit notes open the palate, soon turning to smoky blackcurrants, tea, and rich fruit loaf. The finish is spicy, featuring black pepper, tobacco, dark berries, and plain chocolate.  

The 2000 vintage of Balblair is intended to replace the well-regarded 1997 variant. Matured in first-fill American oak, this very drinkable expression represents good value for the money. A pretty peach and pineapple nose, with coconut and honeyed vanilla. Toasted marshmallows with time. Relatively light-bodied, sweet, with lively spice, ginger, and youthful oak on the relatively complex palate. Fudge in the finish, and a contrasting hint of dark chocolate at the last.

This veteran Balblair was distilled on February 7, 1969 using barley malted on site and coal-fired stills. Just 999 bottles have been released. Opens with slight saltiness on the nose, almost ozone, then lemons and pine, and finally, vanilla fudge. Overt citrus notes on the palate, with aniseed, some oak, brittle toffee, and a smokiness not found in younger Balblairs. The finish is long and discreetly spicy, notably cinnamon and black pepper.

The oldest of Bablair’s current core bottlings was distilled in 1990, and after maturing for 21 years in bourbon casks it was transferred to oloroso sherry butts for a further 2 years prior to bottling. Citrus fruits, furniture polish, cloves, cinnamon, and parma violets on the nose. A silky mouthfeel, spicy, with dark berries, dates, and rich sherry. Slowly drying, with aniseed and dark chocolate in the finish.

A new addition to the permanent Balvenie range. Lovely bright gold color. Layers of sweetness (the characteristic Balvenie honey, along with vanilla fudge, nougat, and rich toffee) peppered with dried spice and a hint of tropical fruit (papaya, guava, tangerine). Nice viscosity with good grip on the finish. I really like the balance and complexity of this whisky. A very solid effort and the price is right.

The follow-up and older sibling to "Curiositas." I’ve been pushing for Speyside distilleries to bump up the peating levels of their malt they use for a long time because a majority of the spirits are big enough to handle the peat smoke, and this whisky proves my point. The tarry, peat smoke and bacon-like notes are a delight, and they are balanced nicely by a honey and apple pie sweetness. Spanish olives in brine, dark chocolate, golden raisin, and subtle spice round out the palate nicely. Not a heavy whisky, but pretty powerful stuff for BenRiach. So nice of the previous owners of this distillery to experiment with higher peating levels decades ago. 

A heavily peated BenRiach that has been finished in a tawny port pipe. The nose is akin to cherries, sloes, and blueberries soaked in alcohol. The peatiness manifests itself as a smoky herbal note and shows most on the palate, but is never too dominant. An oil of clove coolness takes control on the finish. Great balance and integration; a finish that genuinely works. £53 

Remember those remarkable 20+ year old BenRiachs that appeared when the distillery reopened which we thought were gone forever? Think again. This new and keenly priced arrival has sweet malt on the nose, followed by mango, orange blossom honey, and Portuguese custard tarts. It needs a little water to calm the alcohol and help to spread an already thick texture along the tongue. A sweetly spicy and creamy hit toward the end. Marked within its competitive set. £60

This limited edition bottling is non-chill filtered and initially matured in bourbon barrels before an unspecified period of finishing in sweet Moscatel fortified wine casks from Spain and Portugal. Sweet grapes, dates, cinnamon, salted butter, wax polish, and printer’s ink on the nose. Viscous on the palate, with ripe plums, honey, plain chocolate, white pepper, and worn leather. The finish is long and fruity, with drying oak.

BenRiach’s latest release was matured in a combination of four diverse cask types: bourbon, virgin oak, Pedro Ximénez sherry, and red wine. The nose offers tangerines, milk chocolate, and spicy vanilla. Peaches, Brazil nuts, raisins, dates, and more chocolate on the palate, with red berries in the background. The finish is medium in length, with cocoa powder and ginger. £125; Not available in the U.S.

This includes whisky distilled in 2006, 2007, and 2008, and matured in a mixture of bourbon, oloroso, and virgin oak casks. Honey, apple blossom, ginger, and nutmeg on the nose, which then exhibits damp tweed, and finally, hot butter. Sweet on the full palate, with milk chocolate, honey, ripe peaches, almonds, vanilla, and caramel. Quite long in the finish, with zesty apple notes.

Subtle elegance, creamy, and extremely drinkable. Mouthwatering fruity notes (lemon, lime, tangerine, passion fruit) marry well with notes of fresh-cut grass, vanilla, and honey. Very clean too and nicely balanced! When I drink a Lowland whisky this good, I am saddened by all of the Lowland distilleries that have gone silent over the past 25 years, knowing what we have lost. 

Amber-gold color. Exotic tropical fruit aromas (citrus, melon, coconut), with interwoven notes of almonds, pear, honey, and subtle peat smoke. Light to medium in body, and very delicate in nature. On the palate, the whisky begins sweet (especially honey), followed by a basket of exotic fruit and nuts similar to its aroma, becoming drier and distantly smoky on the finish. This Bowmore Fino Cask, a whisky which has aged very well indeed, is the first of three limited edition 1964 vintage Bowmore whiskies to be released over the next year. The two to follow in 2003 have been aged in bourbon oak and oloros sherry casks.

Copper color with shades of ruby. Intriguing aromas of sweet plum, grapes, citrus, peat smoke, seaweed, and brine. Full-bodied and somewhat viscous. Flavors of ripe fruit (plums, grapes, citrus), followed by a burst of more traditional Bowmore flavors (peat smoke, brine, seaweed), finishing with lingering notes of prunes, dates, baker’s chocolate, and licorice.

While there is no age statement, this whisky was aged for 12 years in bourbon barrels, followed by an additional 18 months in ruby port casks. I believe it is the first distillery bottling to marry port with the traditional flavors of an Islay whisky. Because of this, it is best to keep an open mind when trying this whisky, perhaps even having more than one go at it before rendering a verdict. I suspect the more you try Voyage, the more you will like.

Amber with orange and ruby hues. Aromas of Islay peat smoke, wine fruit, and background floral and spice notes. Flavors reveal more of what the aroma suggests-peat smoke, fruit, and floral/spice notes-with a balancing oak and subtle sea salt and seaweed. The peat smoke particularly comes in on the finish, lest one forgets where Bowmore hails from. 
   Style: Islay single malt Scotch whisky. Price: approx. $90. Availability: only 480 bottles for the entire United States, with the remainder of the 12,000 bottles going to Duty Free. 
   There is no age statement on the label, but this whisky has been aged for 12 years in traditional bourbon and sherry barrels, and then finished off for 18 months in Bordeaux (Claret) wine casks. The wine fruit certainly is evident and, like the Glenmorangie Claret Wood Finish offered a year or so ago, will appeal to those with an open mind and willingness to accept new flavors in whisky. Purists will say it detracts from the distillery's character. I believe it's the first smoky whisky that attempts to marry these flavors with claret fruitiness.

Amber color. Aromas of peat smoke (but more subdued than many Bowmore whiskies in their teens), toasted oak, citrus fruit, vanilla, and a hint of the sea. Its flavors are similar, which express themselves in a very mature manner-oak flavors are more dominant than other components. Still, there is an emerging brine freshness that keeps the whisky from becoming tired and dull. Good, lengthy finish. 
Style: Islay single malt Scotch whisky. Price: approx. $160. Availability: only 244 bottles total.

Antique gold color. Aromas of peat smoke, damp earth, exotic pepper, vanilla, and fruit. Medium body. A great balance of flavors, with a lovely Islay character. The whisky begins sweet up front, ultimately turning pleasingly dry towards the finish. In between you'll enjoy flavors of peat smoke, vanilla, spicy pepper, and delicately honeyed malt, with just a hint of the sea. What I like most about this whisky is its impeccable balance-between youth and maturity, sweetness and dryness-with just the right amount of peat smoke to declare its Islay roots without smothering its other flavors.

A very solid and sound Bowmore with saline notes, some dried hot pepper, and masses of menthol, which give a buzzy, nose-cleaning effect. The smoke gently glides along throughout. The palate is quite thick and shows sweetness and a slow release of soft fruit, with a tingle of salt. The smoke slowly increases until it concentrates on the back palate, giving an effect like burning pine logs on the beach. Becomes nicely funky in time. Recommended. £115

An excellent example of a younger Bruichladdich, and an interesting contrast to the Duncan Taylor expression reviewed above. Appetizing and very clean with a creamy texture. Honey and vanilla notes accentuate a fresh maltiness, with underlying marshmallow, grass and hay. The whisky finishes nicely rounded, pleasingly dry and salty, with a hint of seaweed. A great aperitif. 

A mélange of casks and techniques that only Jim McEwan knows about. The fourth iteration of his Black Art manages to mix mature notes of beeswax-burnished church pews, a sprinkling of rose water, dried mango, rosehip syrup, and potpourri. The palate opens to Parma violets, underpinned with light lavender, where fleshiness mingles with the exotic notes of manuka honey, pomegranate, apricot pits, and dried lemon. It pushes malt into a new area, but that’s the point. £200

Bere is an ancient strain of barley which is stubbornly difficult to grow and mash. For this, Bruichladdich has gone to a specialist farm on Orkney. The nose is intriguingly aromatic, sweet and slightly corn-like, with a sweet nuttiness behind. It becomes very floral (night-scented stocks) with white currant, lemon sherbet, and a lift of tangerine before water brings out sakura (cherry blossom) syrup and bread. The palate is very sweet and concentrated. Remarkable. Keep watching. £52

Matured in first-fill sherry, bourbon, and French wine casks. Clean and fresh on the early nose; crisp green apples, vanilla, and floral notes, with just a hint of maritime influence in the background. Smooth on the palate, with spicy pear, honey, and ripe peaches; soon quite drying. The floral finish lingers, with spicy honey, drying spices, and ultimately a hint of smoke. (18,000 bottles)

There have been several lovely older expressions of Bunnahabhain over the past decade, and this is one of them. The vanilla cream and toffee nuttiness is balanced perfectly by polished oak, bright fruit (apricot, sultana, cherry pits), and subtle anise. There’s a calming quality to this whisky that is very more-ish. All the maturity of an older whisky without the tired, dominating oak.

The new version, at a higher proof and not chill-filtered. That helped — especially on the palate — with greater texture and more well-defined flavors. But the flavors are essentially the same: nutty, toffee, light molasses, vanilla fudge, with delicate fruit (citrus, dark berries) and a hint of brine. Very comforting. Extra points for versatility — this whisky will accommodate many moods and situations. 

Fresh and quite aromatic. Nice interplay between soothing malty sweetness and honest “naked” Caol Ila notes (in the sense that all the classic Caol Ila flavors are exposed-leafy smoke, tarry rope, salt & pepper spice, seaweed, and olive). An evolving whisky, with a phenolic, briny crescendo that lingers. Nicely done. 

Pale gold color. Aromas and flavors of peat smoke, seaweed, lemon grass, olives, and green peppercorns. Medium bodied, and slightly oily in texture. Long, dry peat smoke finish. Caol Ila is an Islay dram that Laphroaig, Lagavulin, and Bowmore fans must become acquainted with. Although distllery bottlings are not available here in the U.S., many independent bottlers offer it. This expression is young, vibrant, and exciting.

Finished in cognac wood. The cognac wood influence might dominate other whiskies, but the Coal Ila is big enough for challenge. If anything, it seems to contribute a silky elegance to what would otherwise be a brooding, bare-knuckled whisky;. It works nicely. Notes of germinating barley, vanilla cream, grape preserve, and peat bonfire, with a salty, smoky finish. (Available in the Chicago area.) 

Soft and gentle (for Caol Ila, that is), thanks to the 25 years of aging. Plenty of creamy vanilla and honey to go with the malty foundation, along with coal tar, licorice root, and olive, with a hint of brine, juniper, unsweetened dark chocolate, and tobacco (cigars in a humidor?). Very nice. (A Julio’s Liquors exclusive.)

Funny to think how recently Caol Ila was an Islay giant that was kept pretty much under wraps by its owner. These days it has cemented its reputation as the island’s Mr. Consistent. This version shows its character the best, a nose that mixes seashore and grass with a distinct hint of smoked bacon. The peatiness isn’t dominant, but flows throughout the palate, scenting, lifting, and subtly changing the mix. A delicious oiliness makes it a great food whisky.

Caol Ila in unpeated guise. There’s no age statement, but what you get is a mix of the fresh and the mature: a vibrant attack with fresh Victoria plum, grapes, and a hint of oiliness. Give it time and the sensation is like afternoon tea at your auntie’s, with thickly-buttered scones dripping with honey or pineapple jam. The palate is equally sweet and gentle, and only needs a little drop of water to reveal light spice. A wee beauty.

Aged in first-fill American oak, this shows a real brightness, crisp fruit, and some smoke—it’s not really unpeated—and wet grass, before moving into pear and tarragon. The palate is intense, with a hay note, then an almost fino sherry-like note before sashimi emerges. Reduced, there’s more of a soft flow, though there’s still a touch of green olive minerality. A steal at this price. Snap it up.

Cragganmore is a deep malt but its richness is often obscured by its fruity sweetness. A period in port pipes allows this element to be amplified. The black currant is now fully fruited and acts as a flavor bridge while the meatiness that sits underneath and often unseen is revealed. Think cherry pipe tobacco, clove, and dark fruits. Sweet, but not too sweet, and always identifiably Cragganmore. For me, the pick of the bunch.

An inviting and complex nose of honey, orchard fruits, apple blossom, rosewater, and subtle cinnamon. Rich and creamy in the mouth, with initially intensely sweet fruit and spice notes, followed by ginger, toffee, and vanilla. The finish is warming, gently spicy, and medium in length. Diageo Special Releases 2016 bottling. (4,932 bottles)

Gold color. Aromas of citrus fruit (lemons, tangerines) and a pot pourri of spices-very fragrant. Appetizing flavors of citrus fruit, exotic spices, along with a slightly briny, peppery finish. 

Primary maturation took place in an ex-bourbon cask, then from 2006 in a cask sourced from the vineyard of Chateau Haut Marbuzet, previously used to hold Cabernet Sauvignon. A final three years were spent in a newly-emptied bourbon barrel. Gingerbread, summer berries, and fig rolls on the nose. Fudge and vanilla. Black cherries, raisins, lots of lively spice, and a red wine ‘edge’ in the mouth. Freshly-baked ginger cake in the long, spicy finish. Cask number 10; 223 bottles. 

After initial maturation in American white oak, this 1991 expression was filled into a 15 year old Lepanto brandy cask from Gonzales Byass in May 2003, ultimately being re-racked into a fresh ‘distillery run’ bourbon barrel in August 2009. Caramel and white chocolate on the nose, malt, fudge, cinnamon, and nutmeg, then burnt treacle and hot brandy. Malt, sweet spice, almonds, bananas, and fudge on the palate. Spicy fruits in the lengthy Armagnac-like finish. Cask number 1; 233 bottles. 

Matured in European oak butts, this 1998 single malt has a nose of soft toffee, vanilla, and orchard fruits. The palate is very full and sweet, even sugary, with baked apples, peaches in cream, and cinnamon. Medium to long in the finish, with fruity oak, lingering ginger, and pepper. (5,352 bottles)

Mahogany color. Full-bodied, thick and chewy. Incredibly rich aroma and flavors of toffee, fudge, spice cake, ripe fruit, burnished leather, and oak. Nicely balanced throughout, with a long, satisfying finish. 

The nose offers tinned peaches, fresh ginger, and a slightly herbal note. The palate is voluptuous, with vanilla, malt, vigorous spices, and white chocolate. Lingering coffee and gingery oak in the finish. 

Soothing vanilla cream, with additional notes of spice cake, coconut marshmallow, tiramisu, fresh cut grass, and a hint of evergreen. A true "comfort" whisky. Just don’t add any water, because it will fall flat. This whisky is great just the way it is. 

This is non-chill filtered and carries no age statement. The nose is earthy, with damp herbaceous borders, quite acrid smoke, and spicy cranberries. Fresh, juicy red berries on the palate, with background peat smoke becoming ashy, with rich red wine notes. The red wine persists in the finish, accompanied by prickly black pepper. £70; Not available in the U.S.

The oldest whisky ever bottled by Glenfarclas. Fortunately, Glenfarclas ages very nicely. This whisky proves my point. It is very complex, with notes of burnished leather, roasted nuts, fruit cake, toffee apples, sultana, damp peat, and sappy oak. A very soothing whisky, with the depth and maturity one hopes for in a whisky this old. Only 110 bottles produced and only 18 destined for the U.S. 

Amber in color and again some fresh fruitiness, this time mixed with a little cereal. The same dry grass you get on the 1981, but here there’s a nutty, biscuity edge above that meaty solidity. The palate shows slight oiliness and roasted red pepper, that changes into blackberry as it opens. Needs roughly the same amount of water to open fully, which also brings out chamois leather and then barley sugar sweets. Clean but rich — that’s Glenfarclas. (A U.S. exclusive.)

Although from a refill, the mahogany color suggests a short previous use. Some nose burn, with a mature edge of leather and dark chocolate. Here’s Glenfarclas in a darker guise, with raisin and a savory aspect; think roast pheasant and walnuts, lamb and mint sauce. The palate is big, thick, and sweet with lots of extract, but also Turkish delight, sultana, and prune. While sherried, it’s not in any way overcooked; the tannins are balanced, the sweetness massive. £625

Unusually named—it refers to the price paid for the distillery—here is Glenfarclas in slightly lighter guise than usual. Fresh and clean at the start, with hints of sweet nut and soft cooked fruits; subtly sherried elements then begin to come through. The palate is balanced, with supple tannins and a dark depth to the mid-palate. Those sweet fruits in the nose continue all the way through. Refined and rather lovely. £85

Soothing and seamless on the nose and palate with chewy toffee, molasses, nougat, almond butter, vanilla fudge, cinnamon spice, and nutmeg, along with gentle tobacco notes emerging later on the palate. A pleasing dry finish offsets the sweeter notes. A delicious whisky from beginning to end. 

A vatting of different ages of Glenfiddich (the youngest being 14 years old) aged in American oak, then married in virgin American oak casks on which folk from the States had written their hopes and dreams…Awww! Deliciously fruity and clean, it’s all pear juice, crème brûlée, fudge, cool mint, and dessert apple. With water, there’s dusty cinnamon, kiwi, and milk chocolate. The oak acts as a smoothing base for this fruitiness. A lovely idea and a lovely whisky. 

Amber gold color. Surprisingly smoky aroma balanced nicely with mature oak notes, roasted nuts, tobacco, and malty sweetness in the background. Firm body. Delicious flavors of toasted oak, roasted nuts, smoke, leather, and malt. The flavors are interwoven nicely with great balance. Satisfying finish. 

Distilled at Glen Garioch when peated barley was still being used, this 1991 vintage is quite reticent on the nose, considering its strength. Subtle malt and fudge notes, plus a hint of wood smoke. Fresh fruits and a sherbet ‘zing’ on the palate, with a suggestion of treacle. Developing spicy smokiness. Fruitiness is emphasized when water is added. The ‘zing’ — now ginger — lasts to the end of the medium-length finish, with advancing, discreet oak. (Only 120 bottles for the U.S.) 

A lovely example of what not chill-filtering can do for a whisky. Meticulous cask selection also helps play a part here. Very straightforward on the surface (no surprises), but with vibrant, well-defined flavors and a comforting creamy texture on the palate. Bright fruit defines this whisky (lime, kiwi, ripe melon, sultana, fresh peach), accompanied by honeyed malt, heather, and a hint of spice and smoke. A fun whisky, suitable for many moods and occasions. (A Park Avenue Liquor exclusive.) 

This limited edition release of Glen Garioch is the first from the Aberdeenshire distillery to have been matured entirely in oloroso sherry casks. Just 1,000 cases of the 14 year old expression are available globally. Old leather, slightly earthy, sultanas, white pepper, and a hint of lemon pith on the nose. The palate is big and bold, with more pepper, plus cinnamon caramel, orange, and abundant sherry. Enduring spice, licorice, and slightly smoky raisins in the finish.

The Massandra winery, which supplies casks for Glenglassaugh’s Massandra Connection bottlings, is the oldest in Crimea, and reputedly produced Tsar Alexander III’s favorite wines. The 1973 distillation, which has been finished in sherry casks, has a nose of sultanas, cinnamon, sweet grass, and herbal notes in the background. Bung cloth, char, and finally damp undergrowth. Complex aromatic progression. Mouth-coating, with sweet, spicy tropical fruit notes and oloroso. Slowly drying, with bitter orange and mild tannins at the close. £645

This 26 year old single cask Glengoyne was matured in a first-fill European oak sherry butt that yielded 339 bottles. It offers a nose of sultanas, figs, and vanilla, plus white pepper and a hint of linseed. Succulent in the mouth, the palate yields sweet sherry, honey, and contrasting lemon juice and pepper. The finish is lengthy, but dries rapidly, with lively pepper, oak tannins, and a final fatty note. £350

If Cragganmore is sometimes overlooked, then what of this poor Lowlander whose qualities are consistently overlooked? Again, here we have a pale color suggesting use of refill casks, but whereas Cragganmore was reticent to the point of being mute, this is expressive and lively. 
The nose, with intense floral notes of lilac blossom, freesia, and chamomile, is a revelation. These are backed with a thick, unsalted butter note that suggests that the cask might not have been as quiet as first imagined. Give it time, and out come boiled sweets and a fresh green note, like a just-whittled stick. A hint of wheat chaff and fragrant grasses brings to mind lying in a summer meadow watching the dust motes dance in the sunshine. 
The mouth is sweet and lemon-accented with a pickup of a pleasant chalkiness on the nose that gives it the suggestion of a fino sherry or Vin Jaune. I like its energy, and feel that the addition of water reduces its vibrancy, so for drinking purposes I’d have a glass of ice cold water on the side. All in all impressive, with just a hint of soap on the finish taking it below the 90 mark. 

Style: Speyside single malt scotch Color: Amber Aroma: Rich and rather full for Glenlivet, with nuts and fruit, drenched with layers of toffee and caramel. Palate: Rich and enveloping-almost chewy-with notes of toffee and caramel up front. Delicate fruit, nuts and spice emerge mid-palate, adding complexity, becoming dry with a long spicy finish 

Very stylish. Quite refined too, with notes of vanilla, peaches and flowering currant. The whisky is very soft on the palate, delicate and almost bashful at times. Indeed, it may take a couple of dates with this whisky for it to fully to reveal itself. The whisky finishes toasty, with a pleasing cereal grain maltiness. Some whiskies are great after dinner; others make wonderful pre-dinner drams. This one is great anytime. 

New packaging and new whisky too-sort of. According to Glenlivet’s whisky maker Jim Cryle, Archive is now being bottled in smaller batches, allowing them to be more selective in the casks used to improve its quality and flavor. I believe that it has worked. It tastes more refined. Along with Archive’s signature creamy toffee notes, I’m picking up beautiful floral, vanilla, and fruity notes (peaches, pineapple, coconut) on the nose and palate, with subtler nutty, anise threads throughout. An elegant expression of Glenlivet. 

Lovely bouquet of dried citrus fruit, honeyed apricot and plum, complemented by exotic wood spice, malty vanilla, and a hint of mint and anise. Similar follow-through on the palate, with the sweeter notes up front, full fruit impact mid-palate, leading to a dry, peppery, exotic wood spice finish. The whisky evolves on the palate and is very impressive, with its only blemish being a bit too dry and oaky on the finish. 

This whisky fits the profile of other extra-matured Glenlivet whiskies I’ve tasted. Notes of coconut and other assorted tropical fruit, old rum, caramel custard, shortbread cookies, vanilla malt, and a hint of cotton candy. This is all balanced by polished oak. A soothing, rather sweet whisky (which is quite surprising for its age).

For those of you drinking whisky long enough, it was a Glenmorangie Tain L’Hermitage 1978 Vintage that kick-started this whole exotic finish trend by Glenmorangie about 10 years ago. That one wasn’t sold here in the U.S., but this one is (although this one costs about four times as much as the original one did when it was released). Both were racked in used bourbon barrels before being finished in Hermitage red wine casks from northern Rhone. The best of these limited release Glenmorangies, like the Fino Sherry Finish expression several years ago, add complexity and intrigue without masking Glenmorangie’s lovely subtle complexity. This one does a pretty good job of it, although there’s a lot of fruit here (an obvious contribution of the wine). Complex fruit, with notes of plum, raspberry, nectarine, blueberries, and a hint of lemon. Underneath the fruit, there’s nougat, dark chocolate and cocoa. Towards the finish, the whisky becomes nicely dry with oak lingering on the palate. 

When compared to the 10 year old, this one’s richer, with darker fruit and more caramelized sweet notes, paired with accentuated dried wood spice, while the 10 year old is more vibrant and floral. Like the 10 year old, there’s good balance here.

Finished (extra-matured, as they are now saying) in Sauternes casks. This expression replaces the Madeira wood finish. Beautiful sweet notes of honeycomb, sultana, apple pie, and white chocolate balanced by peach, coconut, and pineapple. Gentle background spice. The Sauternes cask adds extra weight and viscosity. The sweetness is not cloying, nor does it dominate the flavor profile. A good demonstration of the benefits of wood finishing. 

Milsean is the latest Private Edition release from Glenmorangie. After initial bourbon barrel maturation, the whisky spent several years in heavily-toasted Portuguese red wine casks. Fresh fruits on the early nose, with ginger and a hint of musk. Coconut and icing sugar emerge. Smooth and rounded on the palate with a big fruit hit that becomes more citric in time, plus lively oak spices. Lingering in the finish, with persistent spice. Finally, plain chocolate and chili.

The ninth release in Glenmorangie’s Private Edition series was matured fully in American oak barrels that previously contained rye whiskey. A reticent early nose: melon and a hint of lemon, then warm, oily cereal notes and honey develop. Initially fruity on the palate, with ripe banana, then slightly earthy, with nutty spice and cocoa powder. Zesty spices in the finish, drinking chocolate, and youthful oak.

It's nice to see Gordon & MacPhail bottlings at strengths higher than 40%, and it makes this already hefty whisky even more so. It is fragrant (with subtle heather notes), rich and malty (and quite thick in texture), with notes of honey and vanilla. Interwoven fruit (sultana, along with subtle lemon and orange) add complexity. All this sweetness is rounded out nicely with a long, dry, oaky/spicy finish. A delicious, evolving whisky. (Bottled exclusively for Binny's Beverage Depot.)

Interestingly, this whisky was bottled in 2005, but not released until the end of 2008. (The brand manager tells me that they wanted to wait until the stocks of the current 1980s vintage (a 1987) were depleted. It’s fresh, lively, and uncluttered, glowing with bright fruit (mandarin orange, nectarine), lemon meringue pie, and a creamy vanilla sweetness that coats the palate. A gently dry oak finish with subtle anise and very dark chocolate. A perky Glenrothes, and a lot of fun to drink. 

Glenrothes is always this fascinating mix of the malty and the fruity and is one of those drams which needs time in the glass to open. Given that time, you will be rewarded with date, raisin, some fudge, and some real savory depth before a sprinkling of trail mix and a sweetening into nougat and caramel, spice and chocolate. A replacement for the old Select Reserve, this is a magnificent Glenrothes and at a great price, so don’t dare moan.

The initial Glenrothes 1995 was released in 2011. This edition comprises first-fill American oak casks seasoned with dry oloroso sherry. Significant sherry cask influence early on the nose, with a savory note, rich fruitcake, cherries, malt, and developing vanilla custard. Supple in the mouth, with honey, berry fruits, and citrus notes. Spicier in time. The finish dries slightly, with cinnamon and a sprinkling of black pepper.

Cask # 328 was filled at Glenturret on December 16, 1986 by stillmen Hugh Malloy and Chic Brock. After 28 years of maturation, it has yielded 240 bottles. It is exclusively available online at thefamousgrouse.com. Boiled fruit sweets, heather, hazelnuts, old oak, and musty bung-cloths on the nose, plus slight mint. The palate is rich and fruity, with honey, rum, vanilla fudge, and ginger root. Spicy milk chocolate and coconut in the lengthy finish, with non-intrusive oak. Classic Glenturret. £200

A belated addition to Diageo’s Special Releases range for 2011, this offering is from the now-demolished distillery in Stonehaven, which closed in 1985. Just 1,500 bottles are available, and maturation has taken place in American oak refill casks filled in 1970. Resin, malt, nutmeg, and wood polish on the nose, with developing vanilla and brittle toffee. Full in the mouth, slightly oily, and notably fruity, with heather and cinnamon notes. Pepper and bitter orange in the long finish. £525

Bright gold color. Soft aromas and flavors of delicate honey, heather, subtle spice, tropical fruit, creamy vanilla, and malt. Nicely balanced throughout the palate and very clean-this whisky was aged in an excellent cask. There are no off flavor notes from the wood at all, nor is it too woody on the finish. Rather, it finishes soft, gentle, and clean. 

Clean and fragrant on the nose, with aromas of dried heather, germinating barley, and white chocolate. Soft, sweet malt along with honeycomb, crème brulee, and a hint of fruit puree. The palate is soothingly malty, delivering what the aroma promised (first the sweet notes, then dried heather and spice), with a dry, polished oak finish. The extra aging adds depth, and the cask was obviously a good one, with no hint of being tired or old. 

Yellow gold color. Fresh, floral aromas (reminiscent of a spring garden), creamy vanilla, honey, heather, subtle fruit, and a hint of toasted oak. Elegant and nicely balanced. Medium in body, but richly so. Richly flavored, too, and nicely balanced, with notes that echo the aromas. In fact, this is one of the most balanced whiskies I've had in quite a while. A hint of salt, spice, and seaweed on the finish linger on indefinitely. This whisky is a pure joy to drink and demonstrates why Highland Park is so highly regarded. The fact that it was aged in a bourbon cask allows this whisky's more subtle notes to be fully appreciated. Quite delicious!

This is a recent addition to the portfolio, and has been matured in a mixture of thirteen American oak butts and hogsheads. These have given an out-turn of 893 bottles. Freshly-grated ginger, white pepper, and melons on the nose. Soft fruit and spices feature on the palate, with honey and coconut oil, plus background peat smoke. Lively spices, soft oak, and hazelnuts in the finish.

Many of the independent  H.P. bottlings are aged in bourbon casks, and, like this one, exhibit creamy vanilla, honeyed malt, and citrus. I’m also picking up some more subtle heather, brine, coconut, and nougat. This one is clean on the palate and shows nice balance, with enough dry oak on the finish to counter the whisky’s sweeter notes. (A D&M Wines & Liquors exclusive.) 

More obviously sherried on the nose than either Sigurd or Ragnvald; buttery, with figs, sultanas, vanilla, a hint of leather, and ripe oranges. Rich and silky on the complex palate; overt sherry, ginger, and lots of old leather and sweet smoke. Spice is quite muted here. The finish is lengthy, with plain chocolate, wood smoke, figs, and tingling spices. Luxurious and accomplished. (Travel Retail exclusive.) €1,000

The latest addition to the Jura range has been matured in American white oak casks before spending three years in Gonzalez Byass oloroso sherry butts. The mellow nose is lightly oily, with figs, sherry, orange, and a savory note. Vanilla emerges, along with malt, and finally a hint of cinnamon and parma violets. Soft and supple on the palate, with more orange, plus cocoa, sultanas, and dates. The finish is lengthy and features dark chocolate, raisins, aniseed, and subtle spices. 

A thick, sweet, weighty Lagavulin -- the kind you eat with a fork. Interwoven caramel and molasses laced with thumping waxed fruit, dates, burnt walnuts, and peat kiln embers that linger long on the palate. A mouthful!

White wine color. Seaweed, briny aromas and flavors. The classic Laphroaig medicinal, pungent, smoky rush kicks in on the finish and stays in overdrive for a very long time. 

This whisky shows no signs of immaturity considering its age. Indeed, enjoying Laphroaig young and at a higher strength is the best way to appreciate the distillery’s true character. Very medicinal and “closed up” neat, but comes alive with a splash of water. Powerful notes of tar, charcoal, smoked seaweed, and licorice root, mercifully tamed by ripe barley and honeyed malt laced with vanilla. Warm, smoky, charred oak finish. (U.S. only)

A very tarry start, like fence posts which have just been treated with creosote. Add in some smoked fish alongside dried grass, and you have all the requisite elements for a classic Laphroaig. The palate is massively smoky to start, a real peat bomb, but that eruption recedes, allowing barley and sweetness to come through. This is a serious dram which needs water to coat the tongue. Very good. £65/500 ml

Bold, with smoked fish (Arbroath smokies), dried fruits. Has requisite density of character with classic notes of freshly-laid tarmac and medicine. A lemon edge adds some lift. The complexity continues on the tongue, which is very juicy; vanilla-accented but with plenty of seaweed-like smoke that shifts into licorice. Long, balanced, and thick in the center, with some (smoked) dried thyme on the finish. £70/500 ml

This veteran Ledaig release from Tobermory distillery is the oldest to date, having been made in 1972. 500 bottles are available globally. Musty old leather, malt, and plum pudding on the slightly earthy, phenolic nose. In time the leather becomes suppler, with ripe figs and, finally, soot. Voluptuous in the mouth, with sweet sherry, plain chocolate, and soft spices, plus black pepper, an emerging note of coal. The finish is very long, with citrus fruit, chili, smoke, and subtle oakiness.

Some of the first peated spirit produced in the late 1990s at Tobermory Distillery has gone into this bottling, which has been finished in marsala wine casks. The nose yields earthy malt, new leather, printer’s ink, and a final fragrant note. Big, bright flavors of orchard fruits and sweet peat on the palate, plus black pepper and dessert wine. Ashy peat, burnt oak, and lingering pepperiness in the finish.

From a Speyside distillery whose malt is more commonly found in blends. An enticing and complex nose balances sweet honey, acidic dried orange, rich walnut, and light smoke. On the palate these elements come together well with complexity and balance. Things get spicy in the mid-palate, with black pepper, salt, ginger, and a bump in smoke. A long finish rounds everything off, showcasing smoke and orange. Lots of character and flavor for an uncommon malt. (U.S. only)

Longmorn is now being bottled one year older. Whisky companies seem to be discontinuing odd-year whiskies. Bowmore recently extended their 17 year old to 18. Ironically, in both instances, the older whiskies serve up more sherry and fruit. Both the Longmorn 15 and Bowmore 17 were considered benchmark whiskies, so these changes weren’t without risk. Still, in both instances, the new expressions won’t disappoint. This new Longmorn shows a mouth-coating maltiness -- Longmorn’s signature characteristic. Along with this, there’s ripe barley, honeyed fruit (peach, with subtle sultana and pineapple), gently complex nuts (almonds, brazil nuts), and a hint of chocolate-covered coconut. A lush, fruity-sweet dram that lingers long on the palate. True Longmorn devotees will still want to purchase a bottle of the 15 year old while they can.

Longmorn may be slightly better known, but it’s still pretty much a cult whisky — with a huge following in Japan, where every whisky bar seems to have multiple expressions. This bottling shows it in its lushest guise, with masses of caramelized soft fruits, banana, cream toffee, and chocolate. The palate shifts between raisin and plum. Elegant. 

Immediately identifiably Longmorn: that ridiculous, highly amenable mix of soft fruits, masses of sweet spice, candied peels, coconut, and sticky toffee pudding. In fact, it’s almost over the top in its lushness. Leans into the mouth with masses of mace, then soft fruits and marzipan develop. Unctuous, long, and ripe, the wood shows just a little, but the depth and richness holds it in check. Very good. £97

Deep gold color. Fragrant, floral aroma, with a potpourri of dried spices, especially vanilla and nutmeg. Creamy texture. Flavors of creamy vanilla and caramel, becoming dry with subtle spices and just a hint of fruit. 

Even drier and expressing more of the complex floral and spice notes found in the 15 year old. However, by the time the whisky reaches mid-palate, the dried fruits, dried spices, and general wood notes become prominent, preventing the whisky from revealing other sides of its usually multi-faceted personality. It’s still a very fine whisky, but not as good as the 15, regardless of price. 

Initially, this is Macallan in effusive Willy Wonka mood, with lots of toffee, chocolate, greengage, and light oiliness. The aroma thickens with water, and with it a more serious mien: brogues buffed to a high sheen. The palate is equally rich and layered, with cereal, black cherry, discreet oak. A complex mix, as befits a gentleman’s dram that every gentleman should have. £95

Toffee and nougat, with a lacing of cotton candy. It then turns richly nutty-almost chewy-with notes of dried apricot, sultana, and a touch of red currant. Firm, dry, oak resin finish. A well-structured whisky, indicative of the Mortlach pedigree. 

Immediately identifiable as Mortlach, with a pleasant, feral mélange of meat mingled with milk chocolate and gorse. There is elegant sweetness here, but expressed as a mix of the bittersweet caramelized juices stuck to the bottom of a roasting pan, with honey. The palate, unsurprisingly, is big, and medium dry, but here as well there’s some sweetness in the form of black fruits. Mortlach, but in a slightly subtler guise than usual. £60

Finished in sauternes wood. I really love how the appetizing notes of Pulteney marry with the sweet notes of the sauternes wine cask. Light-medium in body, but good viscosity. Fresh brine throughout, with honey-drenched melon fruit, pineapple in syrup, citrus, and a hint of cotton candy and lightly toasted marshmallow. A delicious marriage of two high-caliber drinks categories.

WK209 is named after a steam herring drifter registered in the Caithness port of Wick, where Old Pulteney is distilled. This limited edition, travel retail exclusive was matured entirely in first fill European oak sherry casks for 8 to 10 years. Milk chocolate, crème brûlée, old leather, and sherry on the nose, contrasting with brine. Sherry, dried fruits, black pepper, English mustard, and sea salt on the full palate. Spicy sherry, heather, and black coffee in the luxurious finish. €50

One of the last remaining vintages from an Islay distillery which will be missed dearly. This is obviously from a sherry cask, and the peat smoke, sherry, and oak-aging is married nicely here. It a brooding Port Ellen. Notes of peat fires, fig, kippers, toffee, vanilla, and dry oak take turns entertaining the palate. Considering its age, it isn’t excessively oaked, and the Port Ellen character still shines through. If you’re going to track down a bottle of Port Ellen before they get really difficult to find, this one is worth serious consideration. 

An elder Port Ellen, but still showing plenty of Port Ellen character. It’s chock full of kiln smoke, damp forest, seaweed, charcoal, brine, and tar. Additional notes of licorice root, kalamata olive, cinnamon, and black pepper, with teasing citrus emerging occasionally. Warming, tarry, dry smoke finish. An old-fashioned, pungent Islay whisky.

This, the fifth of TWE’s ongoing Elements bottlings of Islay’s legendary closed distillery, does not disappoint. The nose is akin to salted chocolate, with a wasabi-like earthiness lurking behind. Port Ellen’s characteristic flintiness is there in the form of rock-pools and hot sand inside seashells, while the smoke hints at sphagnum moss, marsh gas, and burnt cake. The palate has touches of smoked eel and a hint of pear. As enigmatic as ever, in other words. £175 (500 ml)

Matured in refill European oak sherry butts, this year’s Special Release has more weight than many previous expressions and a fascinating smokiness that comes across like a just-lit fire: fire lighter, burning paper, fire grate, and wood smoke. The more active oak adds walnut skin notes and rich dried fruits before the smoke returns. All very sophisticated with enough sweetness to balance. Excellent, but, ouch, that price!

2011 saw the first expression of Rosebank appear in Diageo’s annual Special Releases series, and just 5,604 bottles are available worldwide. The bottling is comprised of whisky matured in refill American oak and refill European oak casks. Floral and mildly herbal on the nose, with cereal and tropical fruit notes, along with a hint of damp soil. The palate is somewhat tart, with oranges and pepper, while the finish dries to coffee and spicy oak. A lovely example of a much-mourned malt. 

A limited edition of 2000 bottles. Thick and syrupy on the palate, accentuated with vanilla and shortbread. You’ll also find pleasing peaches & cream, zingy citrus fruit, along with a hint of nuts, spice, and a pinch of salt on the palate. A nice addition to the 14 year old distillery bottling. Kudos for bottling it at cask strength. 

Older Springbanks are becoming hard to find, and this one won't disappoint. It is packed with citrus notes (lemon, orange) often found in whiskies over 30 years old. Along with them you'll find subtle spice notes (especially cinnamon), red licorice, polished oak, and that signature Springbank fresh brininess, albeit a bit reserved. This Springbank is not as heavily sherried as some other older bottlings that have come and gone. If I wanted to be picky, I would like to see more of the Springbank briny zest and freshness here, but, giving its age, it is understandably reserved. This whisky's best feature is how surprisingly clean, rounded, and polished it is for 33 years old. Very nice.

Finished in a rum cask. Gently sweet (caramel, vanilla cream, kiss of honey), with balancing fruit (lime, kiwi, green grape) and spice (white pepper, brine). Youthful (but not immature). Invigorating briny finish. I don’t know what kind of rum cask was used, but it comes across more like sugar cane juice-based rhum agricole than the molasses-based rums. Very nice! (A Park Avenue Liquor exclusive.) 

Even with a refill sherry cask, bright fruit is the main theme to this whisky: strawberry-rhubarb pie, red raspberry preserve, red currant. But there’s honeyed malt for balance, along with suggestions of
coconut macaroon, marzipan, brine, and glazed ginger to keep things interesting. Distinctive. (U.S. exclusive)

A number of ‘Marrying Strength’ variants of 10 year old Springbank have been released, retailing exclusively through the Cadenhead Whisky Shop in Campbeltown. The 2014 expression is bottled at 49.9%. Brine, new leather, and pipe tobacco on the nose, with developing caramel. Maritime characteristics are accentuated with time. Voluptuous on the palate, balanced, with sweet leather, peaty spices, and apricots. Long and slowly drying in the finish, with black pepper and rock salt. Quintessential Springbank, and the best 10 year old sampled to date. £42

Released in February 2015, this cask strength expression of 17 year old Springbank has been entirely matured in sherry casks. 9,120 bottles are available globally. The nose offers sea spray, blood orange, ginger, and discreet sherry. Finally, some peat. The sherry really makes its presence felt on the palate, which is full and slightly oily, with rich fruitcake flavors, soft toffee, coffee, and ripe cherries. The finish is lengthy, slightly peaty, with more sherry, treacle toffee, and trademark Springbank ozone.

Deep amber color. Mature aroma-this is definitely an old whisky -with complex wood spices (cedar, vanilla, mint, caramel) and soft ripe fruit. Medium bodied and soft. Surprisingly balanced on the palate with an incredible depth and maturity. Its flavors are similar to its aroma, but a soft sweetness compliments the flavors and provides balance. Soothing, mellowing finish of considerable depth. 

More subtle and teasing. Not as much a knock-out punch on the finish like the Talisker 10 and 18, but rather more steady intense blows to the abdomen for many rounds. An aging Talisker, but still with many redeeming qualities. It is drier than its younger siblings, with less fruit and more of a stony texture, with dried spices and lingering leather notes. This whisky requires more patience and demands more concentration, but it is still rewarding to the seasoned aficionado (with some extra pocket change). 

A graceful Talisker. Soft toffee and caramel with balanced, gentle fruit. Hints of boat dock wood, damp peat, and fish nets. Warming spice notes (anise, pepper, and salt) provide intrigue and linger on through a warming, spicy finish. Well rounded, with enough depth on the palate to make up for the lack of punch in younger expressions.

Diageo has introduced this new no age statement variant of Talisker single malt. The name reflects the distiller’s aspiration to enhance the maritime notes in this expression. Refill and rejuvenated casks have both contributed to its maturation. The nose is youthful but rounded, with brine, burning wood embers, vanilla, and honey. Sweet and spicy on the palate, with cranberries and black currants, while peat smoke is always present, plus black pepper. The finish lingers, with walnuts and fruity peat. £40

Described as the smokiest whisky produced at Talisker, Dark Storm is exclusive to Travel Retail outlets, and maturation has taken place in deeply charred casks. Rich, fruity spices on the nose, quite citric, with brine and aromatic smoke. The smoke elbows its way to the fore in time. Full, sweet, fruity flavors on the palate, some vanilla, then smoke, licorice, and spice hit home. A classic Talisker smoke and chili finish, but cranked up a notch or two! £45/1 liter

A very welcome arrival from new owners Ian MacLeod, this has been aged in sherry
wood. As a result, you can’t help comparing it to Macallan and while there’s
none of the oily depths, there are fragrant top notes of honey and apple before
some resin and warm leather develop, but no sulfur. Some of the richness is
lost with water, so I’d leave it as is. This is a stunner for a 10 year old and
is marked accordingly. Value Pick £34  

Younger Tomintoul whiskies are fairly straightforward, unassuming whiskies. Older expressions show more depth. What they all seem to have is a remarkable balance. Moreover, this whisky and its predecessor, the 27 year old, are surprisingly delicate and nimble for their age. This is an elegant whisky, with a toffee foundation, creamy vanilla, nougat, light summer fruits, a kiss of molasses, and gentle spice (cinnamon, mocha). Soft finish. Very pleasing.

Tomatin released this 28 year old expression under its Cù Bòcan label. This cask strength variant was matured in refill hogsheads and refill sherry butts that previously contained heavily-peated Islay single malt. The nose is sweet and fruity, with apples and pears, background vanilla, and sweet, light smoke. The palate is voluptuous and sherry-sweet, with chili peppers and subtle, earthy peat smoke. The finish is slowly drying, with persistent spice, nuts, and smoke. (2,200 bottles) £200

This bottling of Tullibardine was distilled in November 1989 and has been matured in a refill sherry butt. The U.S. allocation is 120 bottles. Initially, damp earth on the nose, sweetening to milk chocolate-covered fudge and vanilla, along with hazelnuts. Notes of plum and black pepper with time. The palate is fruity, with toffee, spice, and cedar wood notes. Long in the finish, with cereal and spicy resin. 

Part of the “Rarest of the Rare” collection. Mosstowie was a limited production using Lomond stills for a brief time at the Miltonduff distillery. Very pale in color for a 30 year old whisky, and creamy on the palate. A very clean whisky. Bright fruit (apricot, lemon, sultana) and vanilla are the main flavors, with more subtle grass and hay notes. Soothing finish.

The first Diageo Special Releases Oban to be released since 2004 has been matured in rejuvenated American oak and second-fill bodega casks. The outturn is 2,860 bottles. Tinned peaches, ginger, caramel, and newly-sawn wood on the nose, with an accompanying marine note. Syrupy in the mouth, very sweet and spicy, with nutmeg, cinnamon, and baked apple. Contrast is provided by a splash of brine. Spicy in the drying finish, with ginger to the fore, plus more sea salt.

Cutty Sark master blender Kirsteen Campbell has hit the ground running and is playing a leading role in the revival of this iconic blend. Storm is a very different whisky than Tam o' Shanter. The nose is nuanced and light, with orange jelly and citrus juice; the palate is sophisticated, fruity, perfectly balanced, rounded, and gentle, with a high-percentage malt content evident in the mix. The finish is quite short but very more-ish. An amazing whisky for the price. £20 VALUE PICK

Cutty Sark lost its way in recent years; expect that to change soon. Its owners have plans to return it to glory (and to include a 30 year old among its expressions — you read it here first). For the time being — if you can find it — this 18 year old is a sublime mix of soft plum and peach, sweet, pure grain, easy-drinking vanilla, and a deft oakiness all delivered in gentle and harmonious fashion. Masterful blending.

Blended whiskies have taken a sexy turn for the better, and there have been some excellent attempts to innovate. Indeed, a gap has opened up between main label blends and this sort of thing, which is particularly brave because a world-class brand has let amateurs loose on it. That said, this is massive, with big earthy spice, peat, and sour fruits. There's some youthful sappiness in the mix, too, but it's not detrimental. Brave and impressive.  

This cask strength, 29 year old 1982 expression in the Wemyss Malts range is the company’s first bottling of a single malt distilled at the Northern Highland distillery of Teaninich. Just 201 bottles have been released. The insistently fruity nose features overripe pears, heather in bloom, soft fudge, salted popcorn, cinnamon, and ginger. Soft and peachy on the palate, with darker spice notes, walnuts, and plain chocolate. The finish is lengthy, with more plain chocolate and some spiced oak. £110

Rich amber. A slight agricultural note to start, and although sweet and soft, also a little indistinct. This is a palate whisky, with plenty of integrated smoke, rich fruitcake, and, as its name suggests, plenty of chocolate. It fades quickly when neat. Water, surprisingly, rectifies this: the nose opens to show complex dark depths, while the palate is lengthened and given extra aromatic lift. Rich and rather lovely. £85

This is so much more than a pumped-up version of Peat Chimney; this has sweet smoke from singed green wood twigs, light honey, peach, all balanced with TCP-soaked bandages. Nothing harsh or off-putting, it’s just a delight. Sweet honey, orange, generous malt, and caramel, but it’s the smoke coiling its way throughout that makes the greatest impression on the palate and finish. These blended malts tend to move quickly, so grab one while you can. Perfect for winter drinking. (12,000 bottles) £42

A U.S.-exclusive variant of this popular Islay single malt. Lemon juice and warm granite on the nose, backed by sweet heather, ginger, and developing Jaffa orange, medicinal peat, and charcuterie. Mouth-coating and initially sweet, before darker berry notes emerge. Savory, saline, and smoky. Medium-length in the finish, with lingering peat smoke and spicy oak.

Quite rich and chewy, with nutty toffee, vanilla fudge, nougat, chocolate cake, orchard fruit, and black cherry—all on a solid malty foundation. This isn’t one of those elegant, lighter-flavored blends with a high grain whisky content. The focus here is on fullness of flavor. A blend for the malt whisky drinker (but should also appeal to the more open-minded blend drinker, too).

A marriage of 3 and 4 year old whisky aged in first-fill bourbon barrels, with the 4 year old portion being finished in oloroso sherry casks. Among the best of the Kilchoman releases to date. The first-fill bourbon packs a flavor punch, while the sherry softens, rounds, and adds complexity. Barrel char, burnt raisin, boat dock, and tarry rope, softened by caramel and enhanced with notes of tropical fruit. Surprisingly mature for its age and very distinctive. 

As with previous releases, the 7th Edition of 100% Islay is produced from barley grown and malted at the distillery. Matured in fresh and refill Buffalo Trace bourbon barrels filled in 2010. Smoky ripe pears, wood preservative, vanilla, and apple purée on the nose. Fresh citrus fruit, buttery toffee, and ashy peat on the palate. The lengthy finish features licorice and cigarette ash.

Distilled in 1999, this single malt was aged in refill American oak hogsheads and refill American oak barrels. Pineapple and walnuts figure on the early nose, which becomes more floral, ultimately offering violets. The palate is full and fruity, majoring in peaches in syrup, with new-mown hay and white pepper. Nicely balanced and rounded, with buttery notes emerging. The finish dries slowly, with subtle licorice.

It’s a crying shame that this great distillery is so rarely seen. Here, a bourbon cask has reduced the meatiness and amplified the fruity component, but these are fruits with depth and power, allied to dried flowers. The mango-like sweetness is reduced to syrup; there’s light plum jam and some old paper. Sweet on the tongue, with crystallized ginger, apricot, and a finish of spice, and the strange sweetness of licorice root. (The Whisky Exchange only.) £84

Poor old Auchroisk. Not only couldn’t anyone pronounce it correctly (it’s “Oth Rusk,” in case you’re interested), but in recent years it’s seen its Singleton prefix hijacked by other larger distilleries — Glendullan, Dufftown, Glen Ord — leaving it somewhat forgotten by malt mavens. Part of the old J&B stable, it continues to make a malty/nutty spirit, a style which is also somewhat out of favor in the world of single malts. 
Maybe this bottling (in a rather spiffing retro pack) will redress the balance. The color is full gold, and though initially the nose shows the high bottling strength to the max, beneath the prickly heat is eucalyptus oil alongside those signature nutty/cereal notes. But here’s the difference; there’s sweetness, too: toffee and thick clover honey, even a touch of sawdust and pencil shavings before a drop of water brings out malted milk and powdered hazelnut. In other words, there’s plenty of distillery character, but good cask development. 
In the mouth, when neat, the needling alcohol slightly numbs the tongue and the effect from start to finish is a bit fragmented. Add water, however (not too much), and there’s a soft, creamy effect across the tongue with praline, almond, and a dark chocolate note as well. Be careful with the water though, as you need to retain the zesty acidity on the finish. 

This is the latest spinoff from core blend The Famous Grouse, so there’s Macallan and Highland Park in here, and from the taste of it, in sizeable quantities. With smart but minimalist packaging and an environmental theme, this is a very ‘now’ whisky. It’s heavily sherried, very rich, and sweet, but there’s enough spice to stop it becoming cloying, and it’s as soft as a down feather blanket on the palate. You can easily drink it straight, too.  

The oldest expression available from Speyburn, this has been aged in a mix of American oak fino sherry and bourbon casks, and is non-chill filtered. Vanilla, honey, lemon, and spice on the fragrant nose. Quite full-bodied and creamy on the palate; nutty, with malt, honey, and citrus fruit. The citrus fruit becomes spicier in the medium-length, oaky finish.

Of the three Singleton bottlings, Dufftown is aimed at European markets, Glen Ord at Asia, and Glendullan at the U.S. The oldest expression in the Singleton of Glendullan stable, this boasts a nose of brittle toffee, dried fruits, and new leather. Nutty toffee, drinking chocolate, banana split, and coconut on the smooth, soft palate. Peppery almonds in the slowly drying finish. Good value for the money!

The nose unravels with milk chocolate, thick hazelnut spread, and a slender twist of orange peel, though that delectable goodness is evenly balanced with peppermint patties and detectable light, floral top notes. This has a lush softness, with a perceptibly slow crescendo of flavors incorporating caramel toffee, popcorn, and chocolate praline. It’s beautifully integrated with a smooth, dense texture, and releases its grip reluctantly with just a whisper of a peppermint reprise.

Malt biscuits, runny caramel, blended black tea, melting butter sliding across a hot skillet, the leather uppers on new Oxfords, and a more enjoyable waft of peat smoke than expected. Clean, light flavors; lime jelly, root ginger, initially not overly sweet, then a boost of honey, caramelized fruits, with toffee and cocoa later still. It’s pricked with hints of smoke throughout, with a long finish of pepper and other spices. Perfectly enjoyable anytime.

The oldest of the 2016 Diageo Special Releases, distilled in 1975, then rested in refill American hogsheads. The initial nose is slightly balsamic, with green tea, ripe eating apples, and developing vanilla. Creamy on the palate, with big vanilla custard notes, white pepper, and dates. Relatively short in the finish, with soft spices and mild oak. No negative tannins, despite its age. (1,812 bottles)

If big smoke and peat don't float your boat and you'd rather metaphorically skip through a summer orchard while drinking whisky, then the Speyside version of Clan Denny is the full fruit bowl. The mixing of malts means that sherry and bourbon Speysiders get a say, so it's the complete package, and there's lots going on. Ultimately, though, it's not quite as focused as the Islay. Damn close call, though.€36

Thanks to the Gulf Stream, palm trees grow on Arran’s west coast. That prevailing sunny climate appears to have influenced this mature example from Lochranza: ripe, yellow summer fruits, lime zest, strong mixed spices, and notes of the sea, like sand brushed from seashells. Very approachable; this just oozes sunshine, bringing us the joys of sweet citrus, spices, marzipan, mango, and papaya. The finish is like slurping melted ice cream.

These Boutique-y blends are delivering terrifically good whiskies time after time, but the small batches sell through quickly now that the word is out. This one has plums, apple, mixed peel, spices, walnut, and sherry notes. The palate is fizzy, with plummy depths, chocolate shavings, ginger biscuits, and dark fruits with a medium-weight mouthfeel. This can go toe-to-toe with the best of ‘em. Once the ginger settles down it leaves a pleasing, mild maltiness. Add water if you must. (370 bottles) £49

Here’s one in the eye for people who grumble about high prices for age statement whisky. Sherry aromas, good-quality plain chocolate, clove-studded oranges, coffee beans, and fat sultanas. Thick, gloopy texture with lashings of sherry, mouth-drawing tannins, a pleasant buzz of wood spices, peppery chocolate, and coffee dregs. It emerges from a savory middle section to a burnt orange salvation, followed by a hot, oaky finish. £148

Pronounced “Pot Doo,” this is without doubt a rugged coastal and/or island whisky, but on a mild and temperate day. Salt, spice, and peat are all to the fore, but it’s a gentle giant of a whisky, with some citrus drizzle and a light honeycomb heart. The main wood influence seems to soften the delivery so that the punch it packs won’t floor you. Beautifully put together, though.

The first expression in Douglas Laing’s new Old Particular Consortium of Cards Single Cask Scotch Whisky Collection was sourced from a single refill butt. The nose offers sweet peat, toffee bonbons, brine, beach tide lines, and antiseptic. Finally, a sooty chimney. The palate is zesty, with ashy peat, asphalt, chili, and citrus fruit. Dark chocolate, more soot, and extra chili in the very long finish. Quintessential Laphroaig! (665 bottles) £140

Scallywag is no lapdog; this mutt runs off the leash and disappears down a rabbit hole. The first thing that strikes is a spicy blast of cardamom, fennel, and onion seeds. Baked chestnut, grapefruit, baked orange, plum, and walnut aromas. Warm marmalade with thick peel, a fanfare of spices, and brown sugar cubes. Gratifying finish of grapefruit peel and a burning core of spice deep in the throat.

If you needed proof that Scotch whiskies don’t fit neatly into established categories, look no further than this marine style, peated Highland malt. Sea salt, oyster shells, and light smoke lead the nose, with hay and apricot underneath. In the entry, the flavors burst on the palate with sea salt, honey, malt, oak, and smoke. Peat smoke really builds in the mid-palate but manages not to lose the supporting flavors, although it becomes the real star of a long finish. (U.S. only)

Lush caramel, red apples, sanded oak, and olive oil first pressings with herbal overtones, this ancient grain has managed to retain its distinctive character. The palate is initially mouth-drawing with an oily structure, the flavors are a pleasing tangle of caramelized apple, toffee, and sultana, with a noticeably long finish. Banish any notion you might have of adding water right now. It’s welcoming to have a great aged grain unafraid to show its true colors. (248 bottles)

The initial nose is herbaceous, with green apples, then brittle toffee. Developing Juicy Fruit gum flavors. The palate is straightforward, but full and pleasing, featuring pineapple, fudge, vanilla, and almonds. The finish is medium in length, nutty, with a hint of black pepper. (Cask no. 263; 176 bottles)

Distilled in 2006 and aged for 11 years in a PX sherry hogshead (#310110). Peach blossom, vanilla, and icing sugar on the nose, which becomes more floral in time. Smooth and very sweet on the substantial palate: canned pineapple in syrup, malt, and a sprinkling of cinnamon. Vibrant pineapple and sweet oak notes last to the very end of the lengthy finish. (234 bottles)

Distilled in 2006, this was filled into a virgin French oak cask (#310865) and bottled at cask strength after 11 years. Peaches and apricots on the early nose, with a hint of cloves. Ultimately very floral, with vanilla fudge. The palate yields zesty orchard fruits, malt, and ginger. Remaining fruity in the long finish, with black pepper and juicy oak. (286 bottles)

Smoky! Can you get dessert seaweed? Because that’s what this smells of. Candied ginger notes alongside a distinct salinity—think winkles—and in time a hint of verjus, even lanolin with water. The palate shows balanced smoke, paprika, then white pepper. The best smoky Bunna’ I’ve come across, showing maturity, balance, and no rubberiness. In time, there’s notes of old (refill) sherry cask. Released for the 2014 London Whisky Show but still commercially available. £75

Roasted spices, more peat than smoke, coastal breezes, lemon creaminess, bacon-flavored chips, and carbolic soap. Disarmingly, it starts with lemon, apple, and honey before, brilliantly, the pepper and chili heat slams into you like an Acme grand piano falling from the sky. Bitter chocolate notes, velvety cocoa, and dry orange peel, with morning-after cigar smoke, settling ash, and roasted meat juices. Seriously impressive delivery of flavor from Oliver Chilton, who has concocted a versatile dram at a terrific value. £35

Here, Craigellachie is slimmed down and appears in slightly leaner guise, with an aromatic spritz of vetiver-heavy male cologne coming across first before fresh fruits follow on. More crisp and with slightly more obvious toasted structure. The pineapple distillery character is now dried, before the palate shows sweet chocolate pudding, char, honeysuckle, herbs, and white fruits. A classy (and large) package. (Travel Retail only) €135/liter

The Craigellachies just keep on coming. This, the oldest of the new Original Bottling range, is the most fiercely priced. It shows balanced and slightly restrained mature notes—think of candle wax and waxed leather. Some fruit syrups, clementine, and honey then follow. The palate is thick—the distillery’s worm tubs having an effect—giving floral accents and a hint of barbecued pineapple. Not the heaviest of the range, but delicious. (Travel Retail exclusive) £500

This 17 year old independent bottling of Ben Nevis has somewhat unusually been matured in a fino sherry cask, rather than the more common oloroso or PX.   The nose offers initial milk chocolate notes, then a whiff of cold roast pork and oak. In time, strawberry and mango aromas appear. The mouthfeel is pleasingly full, decidedly gingery, with caramel and dry sherry. Spicy, mild sherry and raisins in a long, lively finish.

Aged in first-fill sherry butts, this cask strength vintage from Gordon & MacPhail features a nose which opens with savory ginger, becoming more fragrant, plus vanilla, fudge, and warm leather. Oily in the mouth, with ripe cherries, sweet spices, pipe tobacco, and new leather. Nutty and slightly earthy. Citrus fruit, dry spicy peat, and black pepper in the finish.

Alasdair Day is on a mission to build a new Lowland distillery in the Borders of Scotland. While we wait, the next batch from his grandfather’s cellar book is a pale, golden dram with a delectable nose of lemon meringue pie, spring blossoms, peach pit, candy floss, and Valrhona Ivoire white chocolate. This is more-ish whisky: like spooning into panna cotta. Pear syrup, white chocolate, and a sizzle of toasted muffins dissipate into a mild ginger and gooseberry finish. £40

The senior member of the Girvan range is very approachable, with a gorgeous nose like a hay meadow on a summer’s morning, while sucking honey-lemon lozenges. The fruitiness has mellowed, ripened, and softened with the extra aging. A thick, luscious, layered dram of toffee banana, sparkling orange peel, wood spices, ripe fruits, and banoffee pie lead to a mouth-coating conclusion of shimmering spiciness. This will fill you with joy and satisfaction. Grain can be this good. £375

The debut release from Don Sutcliffe's Sutcliffe & Sons, this small-batch blend of grain whiskies comes from several different distilleries including Loch Lomond, North British, and a 30 year old whisky from Carsebridge. The blend is married in first-fill sherry casks, which brings bright fruit to a fairly light whisky with notes of blackberry, vanilla, honey, light oak, and iris. Quite good for a grain whisky blend, but falls just short of being exceptional. (U.S. only)

Rich on the nose, with stewed fruit, butterscotch, and soft spices. Very smooth palate delivery, with luscious fruit flavors: baked apples and peaches in syrup, then cinnamon and ginger. The medium-length finish features ebbing spice and developing milk chocolate. Likely sourced from Tullibardine Distillery.

This is the first single malt to be released by the Last Drop Distillers, and the Aberdeen-shire veteran is old-style, well-peated Glen Garioch. Unusually, it was matured in what the bottlers describe as “a bourbon-style remade hogshead cask.” Just 118 bottles are available globally. Fruity and herbal on the nose, with apples, marzipan, ginger, linseed, and a hint of camphor. Complex and distinctive. Surprisingly vibrant fruit notes fill the perfumed palate, with allspice, before it starts to become tannic. Ultimately very mouth-drying, with subtle smoke, and a fatty spice note at the very end.

This example is more assertive than the Strathclyde 1987 (see below), but with a better defined grain character. Peeled plum skins, Christmas spices, and honey. Well-balanced yet intense, it feels packed with potential. Warming, with dried orange peel, a big wave of ginger, spice, dried apple, and mango ensure sufficient sweetness to swamp the acidic tendencies of the citrus. The spices rattle around the mouth for some considerable time, colliding with the dry citrus. (198 bottles) £89

Aged in a combination of sherry and bourbon oak. Bold and fresh, bursting with testosterone. Notes of damp kiln smoke, tar, wet sheep, roasted chestnuts, and pine forest bedding, along with more subtle pear, espresso, anise, and brine. Sweet notes of vanilla, fig cake, and maple syrup serve up balance and complexity. Appetizing brine and tar finish. It’s more mature than last year’s PC6. Earthier and less fruity, too! Plus, I feel that the sherry notes in PC7 integrate better than the Madeira notes from PC6. But my favorite is still the original PC5 for its purity, balance, maturity (for its age), and pristine character. (I lined up all three yesterday and tasted them side-by-side.)

Distilled in 2002, here’s Port Charlotte with an assured maturity. Amber in color, with some smoke and a pleasing whiff of cowshed (sweet hay and cow’s breath), before rosehip syrup and ozonic freshness. Water brings out incense, cream, even a little nuttiness. The palate is gently complex; a drop of water is needed to calm the heat and reveal the smoke that interweaves between the layers. It retains its fresh acidic finish, with nutmeg, soft lemon, and pear. Excellent. £110

Take a parcel of Macallan, Glenrothes, and Tamdhu all aged over 40 years, season lightly with gently peated Bunnahabhain and North British grain whisky and what do you get? Golden sultanas, linseed oil, orange blossom honey, butterscotch, drying nuttiness, and cedarwood. Blending has beneficially enhanced the three sherry-casked malts. It’s juicy and sticky, rhubarb and damson jams, oak tannins, and a little burnt note as the power swells. Cocoa, chocolate, and lingering oak to finish. (210 bottles) £350

This is how to age gracefully. A remarkable, decadent drop released to follow the success of the Golden Age blend, this delivers heather honey, tangerine juice, banana chips, dried apricots, and sanded oak. It’s a whisky of big, expansive flavors. Citrus strands, candied peel, neroli, and dried mango swirl amidst a syrupy mouthfeel, steadily becoming creamier as it squeezes out yet more flavor. Dry, oaky finish with residual fruit, coffee beans, and pleasingly bitter oak tannins that tingle the gums. £600

The 2016 Fèis Ìle limited edition of Jura was triple finished in sherry casks, namely palomino fino, amoroso oloroso, and apostoles oloroso, and is non-chill filtered. The nose is soft and warming, with notes of candy, vanilla, and almonds against a sweet sherry background. The palate is rich and rounded with a significant sherry influence—dried fruits, notably raisins and prunes, new leather, and aniseed. Finally, slightly mouth-drying with prickly spices and more raisins. (2016 Jura Tastival whisky festival exclusive) £85

Distilled in 2008 from 100 percent Scottish barley peated to 167 ppm. It spent 8 years in first-fill American oak casks. Peaches dipped in hot plain chocolate and tarry peat on the fragrant nose. The palate offers sweet, creamy orchard fruits and honey, backed by citrus-laden peat. Drying in the finish to quite a bitter, tannic smokiness. (42,000 bottles)

This non-chill filtered vintage release was matured in a mix of American oak and Spanish oak sherry casks, and stored in traditional dunnage warehouses. Peaches and vanilla on the nose, with a hint of milk chocolate-coated Turkish Delight and background ginger. Tinned peaches in cream and more ginger on the palate, then orange notes emerge. Spicy in the long finish, with plain chocolate.

This blend has style. Coils of red apple peel, ripe orange, cherry blossom florals, freshly split oak, and dry, gentle spices, like running a wet finger around an old spice jar. It’s juicy and thick, with festive satsumas, some bright sharpness, and acidic citrus overcome by juicy sweetness, marmalade flavors, and walnut. The refined finish has a tangle of spice, orange peel, honey, and just a whiff of struck match.

A non-chill filtered single cask bottling from The Creative Whisky Co. This is a classic ‘full-on’ yet well-balanced Islay, with a nose of sweet peat, lemongrass, iodine, and brine. Ultimately, a whiff of aromatic pipe tobacco. Sweet fruit notes on the palate, developing smoky peat, and barbecued meat. Long in the finish, with spicy licorice, chili, and peat embers.

A peated malt from Loch Lomond, this vintage expression spent 25 years in refill bourbon barrels. A delicate, mildly smoky nose, with vanilla, gentle spice, black pepper, and a subtle medicinal characteristic. Soft and fruity on the palate, with encroaching earthiness and dry peat smoke. The smoke lingers in the lengthy finish, with vanilla, aniseed, and spicy, slightly tannic oak.

On safe territory here, with neroli oil, caramel, roasted spices, surly peat smoke, and just enough fruity sweetness to stay in the good books. Weightier than the 15 year old, with more aged whisky characteristics: bright clementine, dried citrus wheels, and clove, but after an eruption of smoke, it fades to pineapple, fermenting fruits, and a prickly grapefruit acidity. The ashy embers on the finish retreat quickly.

This was distilled in February 1996, matured in a second-fill bourbon barrel, and bottled in April 2017. The nose yields nectarines, vanilla ice cream, fudge, and milk chocolate. Smooth and rounded on the palate, with ripe apples, toffee, walnuts, and ultimately, a hint of lemon, plus black pepper. Nutty and subtly spicy in the lengthy finish. (156 bottles)

Matured in a bourbon cask. Cardhu has always been a pleasant, but uninspiring, whisky to me. This is one of the best Cardhu whiskies I’ve tasted -- richer and more distinctive. (At this price, it had better be!) It’s clean and tight, with orange, tangerine, lemon gumdrops, ginger, delicate honey, butterscotch, and vanilla, with a dusting of powdered sugar. Straightforward, pleasing finish. (252 bottles)  £250

Bright gold color. Fresh aromas of smoked olives, brine, exotic pepper, and fried bacon. Rich in body, and slightly oily in texture. In flavor, this is a big, dynamic whisky-smoked olives, sea salt, seaweed, mustard seed, all on a backdrop of vanilla sweetness. Long, smoky finish. 

Gold color. Floral aromas balanced with a gentle vanilla sweetness, and soft fruit. Soft, rounded body. The palate delivers what the aroma promises in a very clean and balanced way. Pleasing finish. 

A ripe proposition, the fruit and the smoke locked tightly together like interwoven fingers. Peaches, melon, baked apple, fresh mango, and sugar strands with a supporting role of red berries. With a malt content exceeding two-thirds, the full-bodied palate is sweet as brown sugar, with mandarin tartness, apple, and red licorice meandering to a vinous finish of red berry fruit. With its cheeky Glasgow landmark on the label, this permanent addition to the GKS range is pure gallus.

Similar in profile to the 12 year old expression below, except that the bouquet is thicker, the sweetness is more caramelized, and the fruit notes are drier (no surprises). There’s also more depth and maturity in this whisky, more oak spice, and a longer, drier finish. An excellent value! 

Available only at the distillery or online, and limited to 5,000 special decanters, this is a special Famous Grouse release to mark the 30th anniversary of the blend. Be careful, though:  it's not a 30 year old blend. But it is excellent and there's lots of very old, woody, and ripe malt in the mix. As Highland Park and The Macallan are in the stable, expect a fruity, oaky, superbly balanced treat.  £80

Legendary master blender John Ramsay handpicked the casks for this whisky, and the job was completed by his successor, Gordon Motion. Puffy marshmallows, nougat, fallen orchard fruit, green cardamom, and clove; it’s like all the threads pull together harmoniously. A lucid concentration of fruit mingles on the tongue, preceding flavor advancement through spearmint, menthol, light peat smoke, and burning orange oils. Sit back as it heads toward a spicy tingle of ginger, apple, and scorched coriander seed. Deservedly famous. £2,000

Somebody at Diageo has been taking a lot of interest in the Johnnie Walker range of late, what with the revamp of the core range and now a regular stream of special releases. This is the first of a series for Travel Retail only, but it takes the Johnnie Walker themes — vanilla, spice, and honey, with wispy peat and smoke — and adds savory spice to the earthiness. But there are some very young notes in this. 

Need you ask? An unmistakable classic and an exemplar of a blended Scotch whisky, famous around the world. Toffee, swirling caramel, whole almond, and mashed banana amid twisting white smoke. The palate has such poise, balance, and dexterity that it sets the standard for many less accomplished blends to aspire to. Conspicuously iconic, and the closest thing you will find to a complete whisky at this price.

A futuristic bottle design released for Ridley Scott’s replicant sequel set in 2049, hence the punchy bottling strength. Peat smoke, toffee caramels, fresh banana, and sliced red apple. Promising layers of fruit salad, grape, apple, citrus, and apricot are swept aside by an aggressive peppery attack, emerging to notes of bitter fruit, burnt rubber, and smoke. If this is a glimpse of the future, I’m stockpiling regular Black Label now. (39,000 bottles)

A polished nose of red apple, cinnamon, caramels, and salted almonds makes for an enticing prospect on this showpiece dram. The taste exemplifies smoothness. The indulgent palate comprises dark cooked fruits, coffee, malty cocoa, sticky toffee pudding, fudge, and a fine line of orange. Roll it around the mouth: the integrated aged grains enable these select malts to achieve their full flavor potential. An exceptionally long finish has remnants of that toffee pudding and a well-sucked aniseed ball. Treat yourself.

I’m reminded of leafy ferns in spring, sweet melon, green bananas, fresh cream, and a dusting of spice when I nose this blend. A light, green fruit taste of white grape and melon overlaid with runny toffee and banana, before the impression of thick fruit skins, becoming slightly tannic. Light spices and pepper follow with a finish of apple core and rich spice. (760 bottles)

Both bourbon and sherry casks were used for aging. Stewed fruits, butterscotch, and soft spices on the nose. Silky palate delivery, with honey, dark chocolate, light sherry, and cloves. Lingering finish, with citrus and allspice.

Similar in flavor to the Aberfeldy 12 reviewed below, but with more depth. There’s more orange rind in the marmalade notes, along with Clementine and coconut. The whisky finishes drier too, with a spicy flair. Still quite clean and nicely balanced throughout. A whisky for those of you who want a fun whisky that’s not heavy on the palate. 

(Reviewers note: this is an exclusive bottling to Park Avenue Liquors, New York, NY.) This is signature Ardbeg: young (but not too young), bold, and with an attitude too! Its flavors are reminiscent of crumbled peat thrown on a campfire, with notes of damp earth, pepper, and seaweed. Still, there’s a soft underbelly of vanilla sweetness that helps to tame this beast and provide balance. A peppery, kippered, smoky finish entertains long after the whisky disappears. Make this your last whisky of the evening. 

A proportion of the component whiskies has been matured in virgin Black Sea oak casks, while the rest has been aged in bourbon barrels. The nose is sweet, with warm cloves and soft peat; a hint of brine. When it comes to the palate—curious! Menthol and herbal notes, toasted oak, plain chocolate, sweet antiseptic. Mildly tannic in the finish, with subtle peaty spiciness. An herbal peat note lingers long.

6,660 bottles of The Devil’s Punch Bowl have been released, and the component whiskies come from 24 casks filled between 1996 and 2006. They include a number of sherry butts, and some peated spirit is included in the mix. The nose offers soft, mellow malt, dried fruits, and milk chocolate. Silky smooth and deceptively drinkable at full strength, the palate is nutty and notably fruity, with ginger and brittle toffee. A hint of barbecue sauce in the sweet finish.

Isle of Arran distillers is now offering exclusive bottlings in the U.S. along the same lines as those already available in the UK, starting with 16 year old single cask, cask strength variants. Arran Premium Sherry Single Cask #1979 displays milk chocolate, vanilla, new leather, wood polish, and butterscotch on the nose. More vanilla in time. The palate is richly sherried, with espresso, fruit loaf, nutmeg, and old wood. Lively spices persist in the lingering, leathery finish.  

As it progresses toward the ultimate goal of an 18 year old expression in 2015, Arran has released a 16 year old, matured in 30
percent sherry hogsheads and 70 percent bourbon casks. The edition is limited to 9,000 bottles. The nose features malt, milk chocolate, and honey, with a citric edge. The palate mirrors the nose with more malt, honey, and milk chocolate, plus ginger, nutmeg, and spicy oak. Spiced fruits in the lengthy finish.

This 38 year old Travel Retail-exclusive expression has been aged in bourbon casks, and not chill filtered. It follows an initial batch of the same vintage, released in 2011. The nose is perfumed, with a resin note and developing vanilla and caramel popcorn. Demerara sugar and oak. Very fruity on the palate, with oranges and lemons, emerging spices, and benign oak. Long in the finish, with fruity oak. The additional maturation has given the fruity elements a greater profundity. (500 bottles)

Very fruity (peaches in syrup, pineapple, golden apple, sultana) and satisfyingly rich in texture, with coating vanilla, marzipan, and a potpourri of dried spice (especially on the nose and finish of the palate). Great balance too. Nicely done!

Matured in second-fill bourbon casks, this expression of Balblair offers a distinctive aroma of bananas, along with cooking apples, sultanas, nuts, and spices. It is full-bodied and exhibits a palate of toffee and spicy fruits, and becomes increasingly chocolate-y, with distinct cocoa notes, when given time to breathe. Raisin notes also develop. The finish is lengthy and smooth, with lasting lively spice and vanilla.

Balblair 2001 Vintage is the first distillery bottling to be non-chill filtered, noncolored, and offered at 46%. It is 10 years old and has been matured in ex-bourbon barrels. The nose offers lemonade, vanilla, allspice, and developing milk chocolate and caramel notes. Clean and straightforward on the palate; sweet and spicy, with tangerines, eating apples, toffee, and more milk chocolate. Cocoa powder in the spicy, relatively lengthy finish. £33

Following the initial release of a 1997 vintage Balblair in 2007, a second edition has now been launched, with the spirit in question having benefited from an additional five years’ maturation in first-fill bourbon barrels. Fresh, light, and fruity on the nose: tinned peaches, pear drops, sweet apples, plus vanilla and wood putty. The palate features lots of succulent soft fruits, milk chocolate, honey, and spice. The finish is medium in length, and spicy chocolate notes persist. £55 

The Balvenie continues its limited edition releases of 17 year old whiskies. Previous editions included an Islay Cask finish and a New Oak finish. This is the newest one, aged in sherry oak casks. It’s a delicious whisky, with clean, ripe, sherried fruit marrying nicely with the dry oak spices. Notes of apple pie, honeyed summer fruit, caramel toasted almonds, and toffee, with dry resinous oak on the finish to round out the sweetness. A big, full-bodied Balvenie that satisfies. 

The darkness of the hue of this, the second official release of a 40 year old from Balvenie, gives an indication of how intense the relationship between cask and spirit has been over its long sequestration. It emerges brimming with dense aromas such as tamarind paste, treacle, and Black Forest gateau. Amazingly, on the palate there’s a lift of vanilla-like sweetness before the heavier and drier elements close down on the finish. Incredibly limited; only 150 bottles produced. £2,500

Light gold, with good intensity and a more noticeable malty note than is common with this distillery, as well as touches of daffodil and dried honeycomb. The wood influence appears minimal to start with, but more vanilla creeps through in time; water brings out almond milk. Opens into clementine peel, pomelo, then cooked dessert apple. The palate is clean and forward; even slightly hot when neat. Remarkably assertive for a 25 year old.

This expression dates from 2002, when Balvenie first produced a batch of heavily peated malt. Matured in American oak casks, the nose exhibits subtle peat balanced by honey, vanilla, and ripe red apples. On the palate, the soft smoke is well integrated with vanilla, more honey, ginger, and overripe pears. Ashy peat, citrus fruits, cinnamon, and tangy oak in the finish. An elegant peated whisky.

This 2014 bottling of Ben Nevis illustrates how good the single malt can be with robust sherry cask maturation. Distilled in June 1998, it was filled into a fresh sherry butt and matured for 15 years before 582 bottles were released. Raisins, prunes, old polished leather, and roasted meat on the nose. The body is full, with the palate offering succulent dark berries, dates, raisins, and plain chocolate. Long and spicy in the finish, with cloves and rum raisin-flavored dark chocolate. £92

Though sounding more like a character out of Asterix than a whisky, Authenticus is the code for the peated arm of the ever-expanding BenRiach portfolio. It’s the smoke that you notice first, typically Highland-style wood smoke with a light aromatic lift akin to smoked meat. It’s not a bludgeoning smoke however, because BenRiach’s inherent orchard fruit sweetness is there alongside touches of beeswax. In other words, it has maturity. The key here is balance and harmony. £124

This new member of the core range is wholly from stock produced by the distillery’s new(ish) owner. It has a gentle, sweet, honeycomb nose, with some banana, a little malt, and lemon freshness. The palate shows light honey/honeysuckle at the start and is well balanced, with maltiness and a signature spicy finish adding a dry counterpoint to the sweetness from the cask and a distillate with good weight. Good price as well. Lovely.

As the name implies, this non-chill filtered expression was finished in Pedro Ximinez sherry butts. The nose offers sweet sherry, honey, malt, and lemon, while the palate yields more sherry, plain chocolate, honey, spicy toffee, and a hint of orange. More spicy toffee, plus drying oak in the medium-length finish.

This whisky combines the finer qualities of both the 18 year old and the 25 year old. It expresses the balance and purity of the 18 year old, while showing maturity found in the 25 year old. The lack of chill-filtering enhances the whisky’s vibrancy and, like all the Benromachs, it’s mouth-coatingly thick and malty. 

The first 10 year old release containing whisky produced entirely by the new owners. I love the interplay here between the malt, sherry, and smoke, with all getting a chance to shine. A rich vanilla-tinged malty foundation, deep caramel, rhum agricole, an array of lush fruit and dark chocolate, along with grassy/hay notes, honeysuckle, subtle spice (cinnamon, anise), and lingering earthy smoke. A vast improvement from the “Origins” release last year. I would only make three changes to make this whisky even better (and elevate it to 90+ status): a couple more years on oak, bottling at 46%, and not chill-filtering it. Still, this is one of the best efforts from this distillery. Well done!

Another example of the old ‘Strathspey’ style of whisky, which predates the lighter, more estery/floral style we have become accustomed to. Here, distillery weight and time work in tandem to give a nose that has slightly overripe orchard fruits, smoke, and Seville orange. The palate then heads into the hedgerows—hawthorn and currant jam—before a waxiness emerges. The finish reveals a mix of smoke and mint. All in all, an excellent dram. £425

Gold color. Citrus zest aromas and creamy sweet notes-reminiscent of lemon meringue pie-with subtle tropical fruit and marshmallow notes dancing throughout. This whisky has great balance and is fully mature at 12 yrs., which should be no surprise for a Lowland whisky. The palate delivers what the aroma promises, with a touch of honey up front, citrus and vanilla in the middle, and a delicate dryness on the finish. I've always admired Bladnoch-a whisky that needs to be better known-and this expression reinforces my opinion.

Distilled in Scotland’s most southerly distillery of Bladnoch in October 1992, this bottling has been matured in a refill hogshead, and 150 bottles have been allocated to the U.S. It presents a fresh nose, with initial herbal notes, turning to cornflakes and newly-mown hay. Sweet and fruity on the palate, with oat biscuits and milk chocolate. The finish is relatively short, with spicy custard, then a final fruit flourish. 

The revival of Bladnoch Distillery in southwest Scotland continues, with the launch of 15 and 25 year old expressions to add to the NAS Samsara (reviewed winter 2016). Talia has been finished in new American oak casks. Sweet and floral on the nose, with violets, Jaffa orange, and fragrant fresh oak. Medium to full-bodied, with rich fruit notes, praline, malt, and finally, raisins and prunes. Dark oak in the long, mouth-drying finish.

The first Tempest to be imported to the U.S. Aged exclusively in first-fill bourbon casks. With the bourbon cask, and relatively young age, you can really feel all the Islay love. Bracing, with plenty of sea character, along with honeyed vanilla, citrus, floral notes (especially lavender), rumbling peat smoke, tobacco, and resinous oak on the finish.  A bit steep in price for a 10 year old, but very dynamic.

A sweet start, then a sudden blast of fresh, menthol-like toothpaste (pleasant) before it dips into slightly decaying soft fruits (again, nice), a mashy note, then violet-accented smoke. Water adds some elegance and weight. This sweetness continues on the palate, where there’s toffee, raisin, ripe fruits, and slow-burning peatiness, fully integrated and ember-like on the back palate. The finish is all hot peppered mackerel. Recommended. (U.S. only)

Pale gold/straw color. Fresh, appetizing aroma and flavor of brine, delicate peat, gentle sweetness, and a touch of spice and seaweed. Medium in body and slightly oily in texture. Nicely balanced and clean, with a salty, dryish finish. This is a lovely, very appetizing expression of a distillery that has been closed and dismantled. (It was the original Clynelish distillery.) It is a very nice example of a northern Highland whisky, and expresses a great balance between sweetness and brine, youth and maturity. However, I would have liked to have seen it bottled at a higher strength.

Part of an ongoing series, and the first appearance of Port Charlotte. This ain’t shy. Assertive with banana, roasted red pepper, paprika, and a hit of barbecued pork glazed with pomegranate molasses. The palate has blazing heat, but also oiliness and real density. The peat doesn’t so much rumble as sit there in a cloud: opaque, impenetrable. Even water cannot unlock it. Rooty and tarry, this is not a dram for the fainthearted. £65 (500 ml)

Peated whiskies definitely have a dropping off point where they become too old and tired, and the nose for this one would indicate it’s past its prime, with gravel, rubbery smoke, and raisin. On the palate it’s a different story, as ashy smoke combines with raisin and rancio, turning the peat age detriment into an asset. Strangely alluring, it’s like sitting on a park bench next to a weathered old man who ends up having a real tale to tell.  (U.S. only)

Dried peat smoke, a papery column of cigar ash, sizzling bacon fat, baked earth, and a shower of sea spray, coupled with hints of fresh peach and ripe fruits. The palate has a light, oily consistency ingrained with smokiness throughout, tasting of vanilla toffee, pick ‘n’ mix foam bananas, tangy citrus, and sweet tropical fruits, the whole arrangement given a peppery lift before succumbing to a late nuttiness. It’s not named after the Gaelic for smoky for nothing, you know.

This was matured in second-fill sherry casks and then spent 3 years in first-fill Pedro Ximénez butts. The nose features fruit and nutty milk chocolate, fudge, sultanas, and mixed candied peel. Lush, sweet sherry on the palate, with a carryover of fudge and sultanas from the nose. Long in the nutty, spicy finish, which offers nutmeg and peppery oak. (5,000 bottles)

Like the Clynelish 14 year old also reviewed in this issue, it is nice to see Diageo finally introduce official distillery bottlings of Caol Ila here in the U.S. (after being available in the UK for many years now). My suitcases were getting quite heaving on my return trips from Scotland. This is a splendid Coal Ila. It is wonderfully vibrant. Understandably, the immediate impact on the palate is the peat smoke, but there's so much else going on here, too: smoked olives, seaweed, salt and pepper, all placed on a gently sweet bed of toffee and vanilla fudge. Lingering smoke, olives, and seaweed on the finish.

Amber gold color. An exciting aroma-classic Islay. It is very phenolic, reminiscent of standing downwind of a peat kiln. Interwoven spice (especially pepper), seaweed, and sweet & sour notes add complexity. Light to medium in body, but quite oily. Nicely balanced flavors of peat smoke, seaweed, salt & pepper, all wrapped up in a gentle sweetness. Lingering peat smoke and spice on the finish. Yet another example of Caol Ila's fine pedigree. This bottling has great balance, and I especially enjoy how the smoke and sweetness marry together. My only criticism is that it is a bit soft for Caol Ila. I would love to try this whisky at 46 or 50% ABV, which would give it a bit more guts.

A rounded and mature affair. The 25 years in oak has made it a bit more refined (and drier on the palate) compared to younger expressions. All the classic Caol Ila notes are stillthere-mustard, seaweed, olives, damp peat, salt and pepper. A touch of vanilla wafer, anise, smoked almonds, and tarry rope add complexity. Those of you who prefer Ardbeg 17 over the 10, and Laphroaig 15 over the 10, will be attracted to this whisky when compared to Caol Ila's younger siblings. But at $225, it's an expensive date, isn't it?

Bottled in 2004 and still in circulation. A very traditional Caol Ila. Not a heavy-bodied whisky, but it throws a strong punch. Notes of tarry rope infused with seaweed and brine, all on an oily, malty, vanilla foundation. Throw in some orchard fruit, Manzanilla olive, black licorice stick, and soot, with brine and Tellicherry pepper on the finish. Clean, fun, and dynamic.

Caol Ila makes unpeated whisky for blenders, but it rarely gets bottled as a single malt. Here’s a very revealing opportunity to find out what Caol Ila tastes like without the smoke. Good viscosity and rather sweet, showing thick, honeyed vanilla, gobs of fruit (lemon drops, lime tart, ripe Bartlett pear, kiwi), mint jelly, and cut grass. Its sea influence finally emerges towards the finish with brine and just a hint of seaweed. Bruichladdich and Bunnahabhain are now bottling peated whiskies, and Caol Ila does just the opposite. This is an interesting diversion, but I am missing the added dimension of peat smoke in this Caol Ila.

This is to be a permanent addition to the core Caol Ila range, but it will raise a few eyebrows, completely ignoring the current peat battle between Ardbeg and Bruichladdich and heading off into an altogether more refined and delicate direction. This is a dignified and complex malt, which doesn’t give everything up immediately. There’s soft pear and guava on the nose, and the trademark oiliness and distinctive peat are there, but there’s a buttery quality, too, as well as some brine and spice, apple pip, and traces of aniseed. You get a sense of its age late on, with some oaky tannins and sharper spice, but overall this is an unhurried, complex, and sweet whisky with just enough peat to keep it honest. Very impressive. (Limited general releases, excluding the U.S.) 

Unusual, insofar as this is the one chance a year that drinkers get to try Caol Ila’s other expression: the unpeated version, which — and here’s a bit of history for you — helped save the distillery during the lean period of the whisky loch in the early 80s. Rather than this just being Caol Ila with the peat stripped out, the team made  it in a different fashion — but there are still hints of commonality. 
For example, the grassy note that usually lies beneath the smoke is the lead aroma here, and it’s not any old grass, but wet grass — like skidding on a football (soccer) field. The mind keeps looking for smoke, but apart from a hint of birch smoke (which could come from the (refill) cask), it’s whistle-clean and fruity, and with a touch of water, fills with an aroma of toffee popcorn, custard, and pears. 
The palate continues in this light fashion with melon balls and fruit cocktail. This potentially bland fleshiness is given a perkiness thanks to the high alcohol and, again, a jag of acidity. Bizarrely, on the finish, I pick up slight saltiness. A fun dram. 

This unpeated version of Caol Ila was matured in refill American oak hogsheads. The nose is quite reticent, with subtle vanilla and milk chocolate notes. Big, fizzy-sweet fruit notes on the palate, with caramel, rock pools, hot spices, plain chocolate, and very mild wood smoke. Bubble gum and peppery chocolate in the medium-length finish.

Caperdonich is always a challenge to find. This one is aged in a sherry cask. One would fear that slumbering away for 35 years in a sherry cask would completely dominate this whisky’s profile. Not this whisky. As you would expect, it is nicely matured, but it is surprisingly clean and well rounded, too! Exotic notes of dried fruits, sultana, subtle (but viscous) honey, sandalwood, and a potpourri of spice (especially cinnamon, anise, ginger). Clean, subtly spicy finish. Slowly sip and savor its delicate pleasures. 

Darkness! is a range of cask strength single malts which have been finished for 3 months in 50-liter first-fill oloroso or Pedro Ximénez casks. Waxy on the nose, with dates, prunes, cherries, cocoa powder, window polish, and finally vanilla. Warm and spicy on the palate, with sweet sherry, hot chocolate, intense tropical fruit notes, and cloves. The fruit becomes more citric in the finish; nutty, with clove oil. £75

This Clynelish is notable as the first no age statement Special Release, and maturation took place in refill European and bodega European oak casks, along with first-fill, refill, and rejuvenated American oak casks. The nose is fresh and salty, with olives, pine, and lemongrass, then fruit notes ranging from citric to sweet. Oily on the palate, with those same citric and sweet fruits as the nose, plus cayenne pepper and vanilla. Spicy citrus fruits in the drying finish.

The maturation regime of this Clynelish involves first-fill American oak barrels, rejuvenated and refill American oak hogsheads, plus bodega and refill European oak butts. The minimum age in the assemblage is 15 years, and 2,946 bottles are available.  A complex, perfumed nose, with scorched grass, developing vanilla fudge, and freshly-peeled orange. Classic Clynelish waxiness on the palate, with toffee, more orange, peach, digestive biscuits, cinnamon, and developing pepper. The lengthy, creamy finish features chocolate-coated orange candy and ginger.

Those who are fond of ripe, sherried whiskies will enjoy this new 15 year old. It’s aged entirely in sherry casks. The sherry is nicely layered (but not sappy or cloying) and the Dalmore spirit is big enough to handle it. Lush fruit, richly textured and fleshy, with a warming spice impact on the finish. Orange marmalade, glazed citrus, and key lime pie are enveloped by sweet toffee/molasses notes, and spiced with cinnamon, clove, ginger, and subtle chocolate. Soothing and restorative in nature. Good for after dinner -- or with a cigar.

Master Blender Richard Paterson’s excellent adventure. This whisky consists of Dalmore aged in a wide variety of casks, including cabernet sauvignon, madeira, Matusalem sherry, marsala, port, and bourbon. This diversity shows in the whisky’s complexity and unique flavor profile. There’s a lot going on in here. Very rich, but balanced with oak spice and gripping resin (especially on the finish). Sweet layers of toffee, molasses, and vanilla fudge provide a foundation for red plum, ripe red raspberry, black cherry, blueberry, orange marmalade, kiwi, grape skin, and toasted almond. A very busy whisky which requires a good dose of mental participation to really appreciate it and sort all the flavors out. In this regard, very much like Glenmorangie Signet.

The Dalmore Cromartie was distilled in 1996 and has been matured in oloroso sherry casks. The release is limited to 7,500 bottles.  A floral nose with cocoa powder and warm leather, along with hand-rolling tobacco and gingery, citrus notes. Rich and elegant sherry notes on the palate, with soft, smoky treacle and dark chocolate-covered orange candy.  The finish is long and spicy, majoring on cinnamon, with more dark chocolate, overripe orange, and a hint of licorice. £100

Just 450 bottles of this year’s offering are available. Aged in a mixture of Madeira, muscatel, and port casks, with a final spell in first-fill bourbon barrels. Warm caramel, spiced orange, peach blossom, and black pepper on the complex nose. Nicely textured on the palate; initially fondant-sweet, then nutmeg, Jaffa orange, ginger, and milk chocolate emerge. Relatively lengthy in the finish, with sultanas, leather, a hint of plain chocolate, and lingering black pepper. £150

Following on from its limited edition 21 year old release, Dalmore has introduced a 30 year old expression, with 888 numbered bottles being available. Matured in a mix of Matusalem oloroso and Amoroso oloroso sherry butts sourced from the Gonzales Byass bodega.  The nose is slightly meaty, with coffee, sherry, and stewed apple. Supple on the palate, with dark, spicy orange, black currant cordial, and marzipan. Spicy tannins kick in during the very long, fruity, finally mouth-drying finish.

Lush and fruity-the sherry cask aging is obvious-and it is balanced beautifully by the dry, spicy oak notes. Through all this, there’s inviting notes of ginger, raisin, and a whiff of peat. One of the best Glen Ord whiskies I’ve tasted. 

The latest single cask expression of 1991 Glen Scotia from Wemyss Malts has been matured for 22 years in a sherry butt, which yielded 807 bottles. The nose provides sherry and cigar boxes, cherries, sultanas, raisins, orange peel, plum pudding, and finally warm leather. Full bodied, with sherry on the palate, plus brine, dried fruit, bitter coffee, and polished old, dark oak. Medium to long in the fruity finish, with salt, plain chocolate, and wood polish notes. £105

The first single cask release of GlenDronach for the U.S. by the new owners, and a nice one at that. Silky in texture, polished, and clean on the palate, with light toffee, treacle, cherry bonbon, orange-soaked date nut cake, and chocolate-covered raisin. Never cloying, like some heavily-sherried whiskies can be. Silky, soothing finish. Surprisingly soft and youthful for its age. (A Park Avenue Liquor exclusive.)

Initially matured in recharred puncheons, then transferred for an unspecified period into virgin American oak casks. The nose offers icing sugar and soft toffee, vanilla, clementine, and wood varnish. More icing sugar, with orange and fudge on the palate, plus wood spice and an herbal note. Fruity through the finish, while spice builds, with a hint of aniseed at the close. An interesting alternative to the classic sherry-rich GlenDronach style.

A refill sherry hoggie has given a classic walnut color, and indeed notes of that nut as well. Here’s Glenfarclas at its most dense, with savory, sun-dried tomato-like edges and sandalwood. The mouth is elegant with a little heat, the sherry giving roasted almond, sweet plump dried fruits, and dried flowers. Water brings out lightly gripping tannins (but, again, not aggressively) and good layering. Similar to the ’87. £285

Glenglassaugh initially imported Massandra wine casks from the Crimea in 2010 for finishing purposes, and that was the first time the winery had allowed its wood to be exported. In 2014, two Massandra cask finishes were released. Distilled in 1978, the Madeira-finished nose yields dates, sultanas, stewed fruit, caramel, a hint of smoke, and spices. Smooth on the palate, with apricots, cocoa powder, oak, and lots of spice development. The softly-oaked finish is lengthy, citric, and spicy. £395

Glenglassaugh has launched its first cask-finished whiskies, matured for an unspecified period in first- fill American oak casks before finishing for up to 2 years in secondary casks. This is the pick of the quartet of expressions, with a nose of fragrant, fruity smoke, hand-rolling tobacco, and new leather. Red berry fruits and woodsmoke feature on the palate, while the finish offers gentle peat smoke, cinnamon, and black pepper. £60

Probably the most highly-regarded malt in the regular Glengoyne lineup, the 17 year old represents a direct progression from its younger siblings. According to the distillers, “The balance has artfully changed. A more concentrated palate of flavors has emerged…” Citrus and cedar notes on the slightly grassy nose, with a hint of plain chocolate. Medium in body, with more plain chocolate notes, plus raisins, orange, vanilla, and malt. Lengthy in the finish, with milky coffee, sherry, leather, and citrus spice. 

This variant of Glengoyne replaces the popular 17 year old as part of an overhaul of the core range, and the maturation regime has included what the distillers describe as “a generous proportion of first-fill sherry casks.” Milk chocolate, vanilla, melon, and grapefruit on the nose, with burgeoning dry sherry and fruitcake. The palate is rich and well rounded, with cinnamon and ginger, almonds, orange marmalade, sweeter sherry, and caramel. Lingering spices and easy-going oak in the lengthy finish.  £70

Very fragrant. Spicy too, with notes of honeyed vanilla, peaches in cream, butterscotch, cinnamon, licorice (red and black), light nuttiness, and toasted oak on the finish. Nice mouthfeel, well-balanced, and quite rich for such an elegant whisky. 

Deep gold color. Exotic aroma of tropical fruit (coconut, pineapple), vanilla, and honey. Medium bodied and firm. On the palate: honey, vanilla, and tropical fruit up front, becoming dry, with subtly complex spice notes. Deep, dry, lingering finish. 

Lively on the nose for its age (and on the palate too -- the tell-tale oak emerges only towards the end). Notes of creamy vanilla, barley sugar, coconut, pineapple, and general citrus notes throughout. Dried spices (especially cinnamon) kick in mid-palate and continue into a lengthy, dry, polished oak finish.

Once again Lorne Mackillop demonstrates his talent for selecting whiskies with beautiful balance. This time it’s with a well-aged Glenlivet. Sure, it shows many of the notes that I often find in Glenlivet (Speyside elegance, peachy vanilla, tropical fruit, floral and honeyed-malt notes), but I’m also picking up more subtle notes: dark chocolate, licorice root, dark fruit, perhaps even charcoal (especially on the finish), making the whisky a bit more complex and curiously attractive.

There’s no doubt that this is from Glenlivet; there’s still that pure combination of fruit and flowers, now given a little nudge toward a more concentrated expression: the flowers are dried and heathery, the fruits tinned pineapple, windfall apples. An added cedar/nutmeg note adds to the complexity. Liquorous and tongue-clinging with custard tart notes before the autumn fruits come through. A sense of the curtains being drawn and a settling in for the winter. Recommended.

Deep gold color. This whisky is finished off in new oak, and it certainly shows. There are lots of complex wood spices in this whisky, and it is intensely deep and mature for such a young age. There’s a firmness to the whisky that’s very appealing. It is exciting too, with notes of toasted oak, vanilla, and a hint of dark chocolate. 

This is unlike any Glenmorangie I’ve ever tasted. It’s a very textural, visceral whisky -- partly due to the chocolate malt, partly due to the casks used. It’s dark in color for a Glenmorangie, and viscous on the palate, with interwoven notes of dark chocolate, ground coffee, pot still rum, and spice (cinnamon, nutmeg), followed by dry polished leather, tobacco leaf, and a roasted walnut finish. This is a fun whisky, and earns bonus points for being unique in flavor. But I think its dry, slightly assertive finish detracts from what otherwise is a thrilling, dynamic journey.

Glenmorangie enters the world of peated whiskies (like everyone else these days it seems — not that I’m complaining). Richly textured layers of sweetness (vanilla, toffee, milk chocolate), fruit (tangerine, orchard fruit — especially ripe cherry), roasted nuts, wild morels, a hint of menthol, and gentle smoke. Certainly entertaining, even if the whisky doesn’t always seem to know what it wants to be. The soft sweetness mid-palate is balanced nicely by dried spice and smoke on the finish. Curiously enjoyable. 

Previously offered as a 12 year old, it now has an extra three years of secondary maturation, after a decade in ex-bourbon casks. The ‘finishing’ casks are ex-Sauternes barriques. Lemonade, icing sugar, vanilla, nougat, and maple on the nose. Progressively sweeter. Rich and sweet on the palate, notably fruity, with spicy orange and brittle toffee. Medium length finish, with milk chocolate-coated ginger and lingering toffee. £39

Artein is the third release in Glenmorangie’s Private Edition range, with ‘artein’ being Gaelic for stone. The expression comprises two-thirds 15 year old and one-third 21 year old whisky, finished in ‘Super Tuscan’ wine casks. Briefly pear drops, then vanilla on the nose, with developing peaches and apricots, shot through with mild ginger. Viscous, mouth-coating, intense, dark fruits, spice, aniseed, and late onset of cloves and blackcurrant cough medicine on the palate. The finish is fruity, long, and herbal.

Tùsail—apparently Gaelic for ‘originary’—is the sixth release in Glenmorangie’s Private Edition collection. It was distilled using floor-malted Maris Otter winter barley, once ubiquitous in the British brewing industry but now practically a rare breed. Oily on the nose, notably linseed, then becoming more floral. Cinnamon, ginger snaps, and faint new leather. Viscous on the palate, with poached pears, cloves, nutmeg, and polished oak. Drying, nutty oak in the finish. £76

Tarlogan is the third and most recent release in Glenmorangie’s Legends Collection. Some of the component whisky had been matured in virgin oak casks, while the remainder was aged in bourbon barrels. A hint of freshly-dug soil on the very early nose, then toffee apples, malt, and vanilla kick in. The smooth palate focuses on coconut and more vanilla, with kumquat and lime. Almonds and vanilla in the mildly spicy finish. (Travel Retail exclusive)

Part of Glenmorangie’s Legends collection, this was finished in casks that previously held sweet French white wines. Sweet red berries on the somewhat shy nose, with developing low-key honey and vanilla. Nicely textured, with a palate of honey, caramel, milk chocolate, shortbread, and lots of lively spice. Lengthy in the finish, with more caramel and milk chocolate, plus strawberry and ginger. (Travel Retail exclusive) £85

The newest expression from the 1990s. Heavier, richer, and more ripe that the 1987 Vintage reviewed above. It is very creamy and mouth-coating, with layers of sweetness (vanilla, caramel, light toffee, white chocolate), fruit (sultana, plum), along with a good underpinning of oak spice. A very nice effort for a whisky this young. 

Style: Speyside single malt scotch Color: Amber gold Aroma: Full and creamy. Floral, honey, fruit gum drops. Palate: Rich and mouth-coating. Clean. Nicely balanced. Notes of vanilla, honey, and assorted fruits up front, followed by spicy oak notes, with a dried fruit finish. 

Richer, thicker, and more lush than the 1975 vintage reviewed here. Fallen orchard fruit, sticky toffee pudding, and nuts, with underlying suggestions of date cake. Emerging dried spice and oak resin towards the finish. A good contrast to the 1975 vintage.

The nose is redolent with the smells of autumn jam — slowly stewing dark berry fruits — but there’s a hint of hazelnut adding a drier edge alongside some waxed paper. As it opens, out comes argan oil. This constantly changing array of aromas is very Glenrothes, as is the vanilla lift when water is added, which comes with added cordite. The palate is very sweet, filled with fruit syrups and even some dried rose petal. The finish, long. £79

The hue is deep amber and the nose is equally resonant and rich. This is Glenrothes in its most muscular guise, so that while you have the normal layers of fruity complexity, there is an extra weight. Think of citrus peels, sticky dates, walnuts, and fruit leather. The palate is soft and rolling with light tannin. For me, it’s at its best au naturel.

As befits an elder of the church, this has a serious attitude, which with the youngest component being 18 years old isn’t a surprise. Full-bodied, but with elegance, not bludgeoning power, this is a refined Rothes: malted barley, creamy oak, oxidative depths. Sweet with stewed plums and red fruit. The palate is unctuous with little hints of geranium and becomes slightly funky with water, though I’d go neat to get the full effect of bitter orange and sweet honeycomb. (Travel Retail exclusive.) €99

The youngest of the Manse Brae triumvirate, and also the freshest. Here is Rothes at its liveliest, with sweet cereal and the typical spiciness of the distillery undercut by citrus peels, dessert apples, and hot malted milk. On the tongue it is quite delicate, but it is how it behaves mid-palate which is the killer, just stopping and allowing the fruits to liquefy in the center of the tongue. Fantastic price as well. (Travel Retail exclusive.) €40

Lush and fruity. Sappy, with waxed fruit, golden raisin, plum, and nectarine rock candy. Mouth-clinging finish. Definitely post-prandial, after a hearty meal. (With a cigar, perhaps?) (Loch & K(e)y retailer exclusive)

This limited edition 16 year old release is named after a collie dog that belonged to a distillery manager pictured in a 1905 photograph of Glenturret staff. Malt and milk chocolate, dried apricots, and subtle spice on the floral nose, with a hint of worn leather and, ultimately, ripe pears. Supple and rounded on the palate, with sweet spices, honey, black pepper, dark fruit, and coffee notes. Finally, bitter orange and plain chocolate in the medium-length finish. (1,740 bottles) £95

Richly sherried, great mouthfeel, and well-balanced. The sherry is clean, and is only one facet of this multi-dimensional whisky. Notes of lush orange and apricot, soaked in molasses and maple syrup. Fig cake and oak resin add structure and complexity. Dry, spicy cinnamon, resinous finish. (Bottled for Delilah’s, and for Bull and Bush) 

Honey, creamy vanilla, caramel, sultana, and toasted almond along with a hint of lemon gum drops and banana. Quite floral, too -- lavender, heather -- with a gentle, lingering finish. A very soothing, mouth-coating whisky with excellent balance, while still quite fresh. Indeed, a very more-ish whisky -- and sneaky in how it grows on you with each sip.

Pear drops, green apples, lots of toffee, and more spice on the nose than in the Sigurd expression; also fresher and fruitier. Voluptuous mouthfeel, with sherry, toffee, vanilla, nutmeg, and a wisp of fragrant smoke. Toffee remains in the finish, with notes of cocoa powder, smoky oak, and citrus spice. Very well balanced.(Travel Retail exclusive.) €400

Odin is the fourth and final release in Highland Park’s Valhalla Collection. It has been aged in a combination of first-fill Spanish oak sherry casks and refill hogsheads, with the former predominating. The nose yields cocoa powder, insistent spice, subtle sweet smoke, heather honey, and rum-and-raisin fudge. Rich and fruity on the palate, with lively dark spices, plus treacle and peat smoke. The lingering finish initially offers smoky sherry, then dries with licorice and oak. (17,000 bottles)

Like “Superstition,” this is a peated expression of Jura. Compared to Superstition, Prophecy seems richer, heavier, sweeter, deeper, leafier, with more tarry notes. I’m also picking up more spice (cinnamon, anise, dark chocolate) and some fruit (lime, mandarin orange, green apple), with a subtle yet intriguing suggestion of burnt popcorn. Prophecy is also bottled at 46% and not chill-filtered—which I think brings out more subtle nuances and texture in the whisky. The only tradeoff is that I’m picking up less of the Jura spirit and less sea characteristics. But this is a small tradeoff, considering how much more you’re getting with Prophecy. Promoted as a limited annual release.

This expression of Jura is by leading London wine and spirits merchant Berry Bros. & Rudd, and was bottled in the company’s Berry’s Own range at 35 years of age after maturation in sherry hogshead #889. The nose offers sweet sherry and caramel, sultanas, cinnamon, and rum baba, with an elusive wisp of smoke. Full-bodied, very fruity on the palate, with mixed spices, pine cones, and old sherry notes. The finish is long, nutty, and luxurious. £200

An elder Lagavulin. Thirty years of oak aging has mellowed this whisky. Fragrant and floral, with suggestions of perfumed soap. Spicy too, with cinnamon and anise. Classic leafy, smoky notes, along with some tarry rope, emerge on the palate and maintain a steady keel as they work their way through an ocean of vanilla malt. Lingering finish of burning embers. Certainly an enjoyable Lagavulin, but I still like the standard 16 year old better. It’s hard to improve on a classic. 

Straw gold color. Peat smoke, damp earth, seaweed, balanced by a maple syrup sweetness on the nose and palate. Full-bodied and firm in body. Flavors are pleasantly mature and nicely integrated. 

It’s a brave person who tries to persuade a malt like Lagavulin to go into a different direction. Indeed, even PX casks, from the sweetest fortified wine of all, can’t fully obscure the distillery’s character, just give it a raisined coating. The creosote turns to tar and licorice, while there’s Syrah-like sootiness, and damson. This release is slightly less sweet than in the past and is the better for it, though I still prefer my Lagavulin relatively ‘naked.’

Light in color it may be, but this is no wimp. The nose goes straight to the shore with mineral and salt, but it’s also sweet, which allows it to be fresh, lively, yet balanced. The palate delivers some menthol, bay laurel, more brininess, a hint of malt, and Parma violet. Everything remains very breezy, with peat smoke being blown from a kiln into salt-laden air. I prefer it to the 12 year old and the price is fantastic.

Pungent and medicinal in personality, with gobs of peat, tar, iodine, brine, and seaweed. These are all good things.in case you were wondering. A gentle vanilla sweetness tries to tame this savage beast, but it is no match. One of the most challenging-yet rewarding-whiskies in the entire world. What Cantillion Lambic is to beer, Laphroaig Original Cask Strength is to whisky. 

Pale gold color. Bold aromas of sweet wort, seaweed, and peat bonfires. Medium bodied and slightly oily in texture. Malty sweet flavors up front, followed by peat and seaweed, then taken over by a huge rush of peat smoke that never seems to end. A sweetness stays with the whisky throughout to help balance the peat smoke. 

Big smoke. Smoked fish, in fact, with some linked oily elegance, along with touches of hot tar and a cooked agave quality, adding a slightly sour/sweet element; then come poached pear and pepper. The palate is rootier, but always with this deep, clinging texture. As it moves it sweetens briefly, then comes creosote. Water gives the sweetness more space before the big phenols come powering back. It’s a barbecue in your mouth. Classic Laphroaig, in fact. £91

Also known as St. Magdalene, this Lowland distillery which closed down for good in 1983 is becoming increasingly more difficult to find. And when one does become available, it will be pushing 20 years old or older, like this one. When young, Linlithgow often exhibits a freshness and drinkability, with a gentle maltiness and often hay or grassy notes for complexity. How does this older one fare? Quite well, actually. I was concerned that this whisky would have too much oak influence, given how old it is and how delicate the whisky can be. While those years in a hogshead add some dry spicy notes, they are never excessive. Instead, they add a complexity that blends in nicely with notes of creamy malt, vanilla, lemon gum drops, grass and hay. I am particularly impressed by the evolution of flavors on the palate and the length and depth of its dry, spicy finish. Certainly one of the best Linlithgows to come onto the market. 

One of the better bottlings from this Lowland distillery which closed in 1983. Velvety and slightly oily in texture, and fragrant. The whisky is balanced, the flavors clean, with no hint of excessive oak. Bourbon cask-aging offers up notes of vanilla wafer, along with coconut cream, honey, and a touch of caramel. Bright fruit (lemon meringue, pineapple, apricot) keeps the whisky lively, and suggestions of hay and linseed offer continued entertainment. Nutty, toasted oak finish. If you are looking for a Linlithgow (AKA St. Magdalene) to purchase before the whisky becomes impossible to find, I can recommend this one. 

White wine color. Sweet aromas of confectioner’s sugar, toasted marshmallow, honey, and coconut. Its flavors mirror its aroma, with a pleasing creamy, almost buttery, texture and soft, gentle finish. 

Like its elder sibling, Loch Lomond 12 year old is presented in non-chill filtered form, and in this case, matured in a mix of bourbon, refill, and recharred casks. Ripe apricots, vanilla, and a suggestion of peat smoke on the nose.  The full palate offers oranges and pears, plus developing spicy malt and mild peatiness. Long in the finish, with spicy fruit notes. Drying, with subtle tannins.

A rare beast of 100% malted barley mash distilled in a Coffey still. Dried grasses, butterscotch toffee, honey spread across hot toast, fresh green apples, custard creams, and peppercorns leap from the glass. From the sweet apple, lemon, orange, and honey, it fleshes out with toffee apple, sweet vanilla, and cinnamon stick, concluding with a little more grain character and spice on the finish. Delicious stuff!

This 11 year old bottling of Longrow from Springbank distillery was matured for seven years in refill bourbon casks before being filled into cabernet sauvignon hogsheads for a final four years. 9,000 bottles are available. The nose offers buttery smoked haddock, coal tar soap, citrus fruit, and new leather, with background notes of soft peat. Mouth coating, with rich peat on the palate, plus fruity spice and developing licorice notes. Long in the finish, with persistent peat smoke and, finally, red currants. £50

Quite fresh and lively for its age and loaded with fruit. You’ll find bright fruit (tangerine, passion fruit, lemon) followed by subtle, sweeter fruit (coconut, honeydew melon, banana, and apple crumb pie). Resinous, minty oak notes and a hefty viscosity give the whisky some structure, while floral notes (lavender, rose petals) and gentle vanilla expose a softer side to the whisky. Dry, oak finish. 

The whisky is quite fruity (green grape, orange, tangerine, and dark cherry), with balancing notes of vanilla, roasted nuts, and a hint of peat. Dry, lightly spicy finish that lingers. It is complex and nicely balanced for a whisky of this age. Still, I feel the 15 year old Fine Oak edition is better and, at $65, one-tenth the cost. 

When approached from light to rich, you can see how the driver of the range is oxidation rather than just the addition of wood. Here are stewed black cherries, red plums, and blueberries, but with the purity and freshness of Amber and Gold. The mental image is of a country house in autumn: clay on boots, candle wax, resin, allspice, peels, those perfumed fruits, and the whiff of an artist’s palette. The tannins are supple. Best with water on the side. £66

Bottled as 350 ml twin-pack along with the American oak version, this is deeply resinous, with clove, shoe leather, high-grade engine oil—an Aston Martin workshop, not a back alley garage—alongside dried
fruits. Similar in tone to some old Caribbean rums with liqueur chocolate and Friar’s Balsam. The tannins yield slightly, showing chicory and raisin. ‘Old style’ Macallan, and another which, while strong, is best neat. £350 (one of two 350 ml bottles)

Released exclusively for the U.S., this is the first bottling in an annual series celebrating what Macallan terms its “…unrivalled commitment to the mastery of wood and spirit.” Matured in oloroso sherry-seasoned American and European oak casks. Confident Christmas cake aromas, plus quite assertive oak. Honey, toffee, vanilla, nutmeg, ginger, and lively oak on the palate. Gingery wood notes in the medium-length finish.

This whisky shows the true potential of Mortlach -- and at a youthful age, too! Quite fragrant and very complex on the nose and palate. Chewy toffee with almonds, vanilla fudge, ripe barley, and nougat, with underlying pit fruits, dried spice, and a hint of leather on the finish. Very fulfilling.

This is the second travel retail-exclusive expression of Old Pulteney to use the registration of a Wick fishing vessel in its name, in this case the Isabella Fortuna, a herring drifter dating from 1890. This expression bears no age statement and was matured in bourbon casks. Floral and fragrant on the nose, with honey, vanilla, zest of lemon, and a hint of salt. The palate features fresh fruit salad, coconut, and sherbet liveliness. Summery. Medium length in the spicy finish. £35 (1 liter)

WK217 is the latest in Pulteney’s Travel Retail-exclusive range of releases named after the registrations of fishing vessels. This expression has been matured in a mix of Spanish and American oak sherry butts. Fig rolls, black treacle, sultanas, and a hint of cinnamon on the nose. Finally, milk chocolate. Smooth and oily on the palate, with soft spices, before deeper and darker sherry notes arrive. The finish is relatively long, with sherry and spice, then final spiky licorice notes. £40 (liter)

Navigator honors Old Pulteney’s seafaring heritage and promotional links with matters marine. The expression carries no age statement, is non-chill filtered, and has been matured in a mixture of bourbon and sherry casks. The nose features vanilla, sherry, American cream soda, ginger, orange peel, and cocoa powder. Complex. Mouth-tingling spices: ginger and nutmeg on the palate, with more oranges, and cocoa. Dries slowly, slightly powdery, with persistent citrus fruit, and a hint of brine. Value Pick.

An unusual vintage bottling of Old Pulteney, in that maturation occurred in a mix of American bourbon casks and Spanish sherry casks that previously held heavily-peated whisky. The nose opens with a whiff of ozone; then lemon, vanilla, and coconut appear, along with fleeting wood smoke. Intense tropical fruitiness merges with milk chocolate, lemon sorbet, and lively spices on the palate. Spicy milk chocolate with a citric and softly peaty tang in the finish.

Old Pulteney’s 40 year old comprises spirit from three sherry hogsheads and one bourbon barrel. Just 493 bottles of the distillery’s oldest expression to date have been released, offered at cask strength and not chill filtered. The nose is soft and fragrant, with peaches in syrup, toffee, cinnamon, and aerosol wood polish. Early intense orchard fruits on the palate, then nutmeg, cinnamon and black coffee. Long in the finish, with spicy oak tannins and Seville orange. Notably drying.

This 2017 release spent 22 years in bourbon casks before a final 3 years in oloroso sherry Spanish oak butts. Bright fruits on the nose: orange, lemon, and lime, with vanilla, soft toffee, and plain chocolate. Supple and silky on the palate, with sweet orange notes, more vanilla, and cocoa powder. Cocoa, nutmeg, dry sherry, and wood spices in the lengthy finish. (450 bottles)

This refill sherry butt-matured, cask strength variant of the Lowland classic Rosebank was distilled in December 1990. Floral and fruity on the nose. Sweet, with malt and black cherries, plus a hint of new leather. Quite viscous in the mouth; nutmeg, dark chocolate, and toffee on the palate. Walnuts and background dry sherry. The finish offers gentle oak and lots of spice.

Distilled in 1992, a year before Rosebank fell silent, this 21 year old expression was matured in refill American oak casks. 4,530 bottles have been released. The fragrant nose yields milk chocolate, peaches, apricots, nutmeg, and toffee bonbons. Spicy and mildly herbal on the palate, with icing sugar and a suggestion of dark chocolate. The finish is medium in length, fruity, with gentle spice, coffee, and developing oaky dryness.

As part of its program to make available single malts from all five of its Scotch whisky distilleries, Bacardi subsidiary John Dewar & Sons has now released a trio of bottlings from Royal Brackla, situated near Nairn in the Scottish Highlands. The 12, 16, and 21 year old expressions are initially available in ten markets, Including the UK, U.S., and Canada.
Richer and more complex than its younger sibling, with waxy peel, glacé cherries, sherry, sultanas, and custard. Silky smooth in the mouth, with marshmallows, milk chocolate, medium-sweet sherry, and stem ginger. Tingling spices allied to darkening chocolate and a touch of smoke in the medium to long finish. Finally, a fat, buttery note.

Very powerful and quite different from the 10 year old, 46% bottling reviewed below; this tastes as if it is taken entirely from bourbon oak-aged Springbank. There’s fresh brine, creamy vanilla, honey, and coconut throughout, and it lacks the waxed fruit nature of its sibling. Mouthcoating in texture, with a long appetizing briny finish. Very clean -- and quite polished too, for such a powerful whisky. My choice of the three.

Nice to see stocks distilled after the 1980s ‘silent period’ turning 18 years old. The sherry influence here is complementary, but not overpowering. Notes of toffee almond, vanilla fudge, chocolate-coated citrus, bramble, and candied ginger. Polished leather, dried spice, and a hint of brine on the finish dries it out nicely and keeps it interesting. Not quite as dynamic and complex as some of those legendary pre-1980s Springers, but it’s smooth, well-rounded, and more-ish.

A good dose of sherry here, but there’s plenty of Springbank character coming through too! Gobs of ripe, red berried fruit (strawberry, rhubarb, red currant, raspberry), especially on the nose, along with raisin. It’s all on a bed of blueberry pancakes, toffee, and fig cake. Coconut and brine emerge occasionally on the palate and linger on the finish. A very nice whisky, although I wonder what it would taste like with just a little less sherry influence?

A round of single cask Springers matured completely (not finished) in various wine casks for the U.S. market. All four are solid efforts — it’s really a matter of personal preference. A general comment: most of the single cask releases are matured in some sort of wine or rum cask. While this is nice, I would love to see several single cask, cask strength, and fully-matured ex-bourbon barrel bottlings offered for a change. 

The freshest of the bunch, chock full of Springbank character. Light and lively. Floral, with plenty of fruit (green grapes, kiwi, apple tart) on a bed of honeyed malt. Nuttiness and brine emerge toward the finish, and linger. 

Springbank has released a limited edition of 9,000 bottles of whisky distilled in November 2001, matured in small casks (traditionally known as rundlets or kilderkins), and bottled in January 2012. The small casks have left an impression of accelerated maturity, with coal smoke, cloves, young oak, and caramel on the rich nose. The palate is big and bold, with a sprinkling of salt, then more youthful wood, milk chocolate, and honey, while the finish is long and slightly tarry. £57

This is the seventh batch of 12 year old cask strength Springbank to appear, being bottled early in 2014. Some of the component whisky was matured in oloroso sherry casks. The nose blends maritime notes with Christmas cake fruits, vanilla pods, and overt sherry. Viscous in the mouth, with cowsheds and soft peat smoke, plus spice, caramel, and a hint of sweet sherry. The no-holds-barred finish presents a big blast of smoke, root ginger, and freshly-dug peat. £45

This expression was distilled in 2003 and after undergoing a period of finishing in amoroso sherry casks it was bottled in 2014. Fleeting green apples on the nose, before sweetening with figs, sultanas, red berries, and chili. Peat smoke finally makes its presence felt. Full-bodied on the palate, with spicy smoke, dark chocolate, peaches, and Jaffa orange; the additional fruitiness courtesy of the amoroso cask influence. Long and softly smoky in the finish, with ginger and lingering fruit notes. £55

Like its Ledaig stablemate, this Tobermory is offered non-chill filtered at cask strength. Finishing occurred in manzanilla sherry casks. Orange marmalade, nutmeg, and developing vanilla on the nose. Full bodied, with a palate of citrus fruit and soft spices, aniseed, and developing tannins. Lingering in the finish, with spicy plain chocolate. Ultimately, the tannins fade and leave a fresh citric note.

Very similar in flavor profile to the Tomintoul 16, reviewed below, but better. The longer aging has provided extra character and depth. Also, on the palate, the caramel flavors are a bit darker (bordering on toffee) and the whisky’s finish is longer and a shade drier. It has aged gracefully, with no excessive woodiness. A whisky that reveals its charm slowly and subtly. 

The subtle sherry adds an additional level of complexity when compared to the standard 10 year old, taking Tomintoul to a new level. Rich and creamy, with well-balanced notes of toffee, vanilla fudge, toasted nuts, and elegant fruit. A surprisingly delicious whisky for 12 years old.

A new, beefed-up version of the 18 year old, with a higher alcohol level and (seemingly) more sherry influence. I must say that I really enjoyed the previous expression, rating it an 87 for its roundness and elegance. I like this one too, and its bold demeanor. Whether you like it or its predecessor comes down to preference and mood. Notes of toffee apple, pancakes drizzled with maple syrup, date nut cake, ripe fruit, and roasted nuts, all dusted with cinnamon, vanilla, and cocoa.

Aged in a refill sherry puncheon, and the sherry is evident in appearance and on the palate. Soft and sweet, with caramel-coated mixed nuts, toffee apple, rhum agricole, currant (red and black), plum, cinnamon, and surprising brisk mint (especially toward the finish). A pleasing, non-aggressive expression of a mature, sherried whisky. (Not available in the U.S.)£340

Tomatin has introduced a permanently-available 36 year old expression, and the first batch comprises 800 bottles. Matured in a combination of bourbon and oloroso sherry casks, this expression has not been chill-filtered. Milk chocolate and vanilla on the early nose, with background apricots, malt, and ginger. Ultimately citrus fruit and sherry. Good mouth-feel, lively sweet fruits, cloves, and more ginger on the palate. Long in the finish, drying slowly to fruity licorice and plain chocolate.

Is this bottled by Duncan Taylor or Ben & Jerry’s? Ludicrous amounts of white/milk chocolate and macadamia nut, with green fennel underneath. With water, it opens into dark chocolate chunks (see what I mean?) and cappuccino. One sip makes you worry you’re putting on weight, such is the thickness of its impact. Okay, it’s more about the wood rather than the distillery, but you can’t deny that it puts a smile on your face. Completely bonkers and somehow wonderful. £49

Bunnahabhain, along with Bowmore, is Islay’s greatest user of ex-sherry casks; a throwback to the days when it was part of Highland Distillers. Its rich, thick, and ginger-accented spirit matches the attention of European oak extremely well. In this red tea-colored example, you have resin, saddle soap, ginseng, and treacle toffee on the nose, and a fusillade of roasted spices on the palate before the finish reveals sweet gingerbread. A big huggable bear. £60

Just 279 bottles of this 22 year old single cask Glen Scotia have been released by Wemyss Malts, with maturation taking place in a bourbon cask. Fleetingly, very sweet, crunchy apples on the nose, then caramel, milk chocolate, sherbet dips, plus a hint of brine. The palate is sweet and peppery, with spicy toffee, grapefruit, melon, and walnuts. The finish is medium in length, spicy, with table salt in the tail. £90

Highly fragrant and citric, mixing dried and sweet orange peels, moist sultana fruitcake. Lightly malty with gentle nuances of fruit syrup. Pretty and elegant in the mouth, where there’s orange barley water, mint, and crystallized ginger on top of a thick, honeyed delivery before the classic ‘Rothes sweet spices come through. Only a drop or two of water is needed. Recommended. £117

The Wemyss range — overseen by Susan Colville — has been quietly building a deserved reputation for being among the most consistently enjoyable single cask bottlings. This new example hails from the mighty Benrinnes distillery, but shows a milder side to its make — there is indeed ginger aplenty, along with cumin, crystallized fruit, and jellied peach, but behind is a deep earthy and slightly leathery note typical of ‘The Ben.’ It’s these bass notes that dominate on the richly chewy palate. Best neat. £51 

A divine, lilting nose of exotic summery fruits that brings a smile to your face. Split papaya, fleshy mango, and candied peel join freshly squeezed OJ and sugar-dusted marshmallows. The thick, syrupy texture fizzes attractively on the palate with flavors of warm marmalade on buttered granary toast. After some mid-palate heat, there is flavored sherbet candy, mint, and burnt orange on the finish. Fruity, but happily not sugary sweet like some grains. (171 bottles for Europe and Asia) £85

Thick orange peels, grapefruit, lime zest, and Starburst taffy candies keep the nose of this premium expression within the purview of the Black Bull character. Layers of vanilla custard, mellow fruit, and ginger snaps quench an initial rush of sharp citrus. Sponge cake creaminess abounds though the spices nibble at the edges, leaving a long, sweet, citrus finish. Water nips the more acidic elements while leaving the citrus flavors intact.

You’d hardy expect Kilchoman to be able to spare casks for independent bottlings, but somehow TWE’s Sukhinder Singh has persuaded Anthony Wills to part with one of his precious babies. It exhibits classic Kilchoman notes of clove and fresh scallop, backed with subtle peat, chamomile, and lint. With water, a typically young, peaty aroma of rubber develops (so drink it neat). It shows the huge potential of this distillery. £50 (500 ml)

A single oloroso cask bottling, so an interesting comparison with the Loch Gorm (see below). The cask has more of an influence here, with plummy fruits, fig rolls, and Medjool dates. The smoke is restrained and foggy, allowing some seashore breezes to come through. The palate reverses this, with the smoke rolling in first, then the soft dark and sweet fruits, treacle, and garam masala. Tannins are very soft. Kilchoman with heft. (637 bottles) £90

Distilled in 2012, this was aged in casks sourced from the Douro Valley in Portugal. Quite reticent on the early nose, with developing strawberries, vanilla custard, new oak, and subtle smoke. The palate offers smoky red wine notes, with ashy peat, spices, and tingling black pepper becoming more apparent. Sweet cherry fruitiness lingers in the relatively long finish with prickly spices.

Matured in bourbon casks, this expression offers a sweet, pleasing nose of honey, icing sugar, toffee bonbons, and orange peel. Medium-bodied, with barley sugar, soft oak, nectarine, and lychee. Vanilla and a return of honey in the medium-length finish.

Arguably the most successful of the Famous Grouse extensions (well, the competition includes Snow Grouse, for Pete's sake!), the Black Grouse brought ever-popular peat into the mix, a move that was followed by a peatier version of Johnnie Walker Black Label. The label says this is richer and peatier, and it is. But this scores most for a chicory/coffee and liquid licorice undercarpet that makes it very palatable indeed. Neat over ice. (Travel Retail exclusive)€33

As with its sherry wood-matured sibling, this 10 year old release comprises 9,000 bottles and was distilled using the same lightly peated malt and bottled without chill filtration. Lemongrass, a pinch of salt, wood smoke, and ginger snaps on the nose. Tropical fruits on the soft, slightly oily palate, with a slight underpinning of spicy smoke. Nutty, drying, with mellow spice in the finish.

Distilled in 2004, this 11 year old sherry cask-matured expression from Glengyle in Campbeltown is one of two final releases under the Work in Progress banner. 6,000 bottles have been released. Fragrant wood fires, fruity old leather, damp tweed, sherry, malt, and autumn berries on the nose. The palate is oily, rich, and rounded, with zesty spice, then peaches in syrup and sweet smokiness. The spices persist. The finish is long and warming with chili, licorice, and worn leather.

After six ‘Work in Progress’ releases, Kilkerran from Glengyle Distillery has finally come of age with this core expression. It comprises 70% whisky from first-fill bourbon casks and 30% from sherry casks. Floral on the nose, with honey and a hint of brine, then peaty fruit notes develop. The palate is confident and oily, slightly earthy, with tinned peaches, black pepper, cinnamon, smoke, and a suggestion of medicine chests. The finish is relatively long, with pepper, licorice, and drying oak.

The original Singleton, seemingly discarded as a single malt, rides back defiantly with this bottling. The start shows cherrystone, but there’s an immediate deepening into mature notes of roasted chestnut, varnish, and sweet leather, but always sufficient caramel sweetness to balance. The palate starts sweetly and any grip is dissolved with a drop of water, which also extends what otherwise is a quick fade. Old yes, oak yes, but layered and good.  

Distilled in 1984, just a few months before the distillery closed, this was aged in refill American oak hogsheads. A whiff of early earthiness gives way to pear drops, honey, vanilla, and resin on the nose. Pears, pineapple, caramel, and vanilla on the slightly waxy, spicy palate. Slowly drying in the medium-length finish, with peppery licorice and a hint of char. (3,972 bottles)

This bottling of triple-distilled Hazelburn comprises spirit produced in 2003 and matured in unusually small casks known as rundlets and kilderkins. Malt, chocolate, and honey figure on the nose, along with a contrasting marine note in the background. Unctuous and rich on the palate, with soft fruit, almonds, brittle toffee, and lots of spice. The finish is lengthy and earthy, with caramel and vanilla notes ultimately being superseded by oak and sea salt. £60

A robust Speysider — and very tactile too (clinging to the palate), but with no excessive oak. Vanilla and some dark chocolate notes along with coating (yet ironically dry-ish) honey notes. But its biggest flavor note is citrus — particularly lemon, along with some tangerine and a hint of pineapple — which helps to cut through the thickness. Good depth, with dried spice, polished oak, and a wisp of smoke on the finish. (Bottled in 2004, but only recently released to the U.S.)

These days the mighty Mortlach is a known quantity, but Diageo’s two other meaty sites—Benrinnes and Dailuaine—remain in the shadows. This is big, boisterous, and sherried, but there’s less of the gravy-browning elements you get from the other two; at Dailuaine it is fruit that is promoted alongside Seville orange, treacle, and the inevitable raisin and date. There are nods to PX sherry as well. Every bit as good as Mortlach.  £43

Master blender Sandy Hyslop has deliberately attempted to capture Christmas in the glass, and so it should come as no surprise to find a rich, full, and flavorsome whisky with sherry trifle, red berries, orange fruit, and mince pie filling in the mix. It's put together with grace and style, mixes well, and is that rare beast — a blend that can be enjoyed on its own.  

Up close, this displays more sherry and dried fruits, particularly raisins, currants, and sultanas, with a deep strawberry note and dollop of marmalade. Quite pungent, and that resonates rewardingly at the back of the throat. The juicy mandarin flavor has some tartness, but then there’s cake mix, gingersnaps, clove, and toasted spices, though it gravitates back to the marmalade. The finish has dry, bitter orange, ginger, and spice, with a hint of lime zest. Confident and characterful.

Baked almond desserts liberally splashed with cream, light caramel, malted milk, and an invading cloud of smoke from newly ignited twigs: a lucky strike from a forest survivalist. On the palate, it is soft and blushing, with marmalade and warm butter, ground ginger, moving to chocolate orange, toffee, and Ovaltine. A whirl of spices and chunky chocolate round off this blend’s finish stylishly. This has all the hallmarks of a perfect nightcap.

Very typical of old grain whiskies: light in body and floral, with soothing vanilla and a mélange of tropical fruit (mandarin in syrup, honey-kissed pineapple, banana, and coconut cream). The better examples, like this one, are not dominated by dry oak on the finish. Subtle spices (ginger, cocoa powder) add intrigue. Old grain whiskies are hard to find but worth exploring. (A Park Avenue Liquor exclusive.)

This potent grain whisky from a refill hoggie bears ripe pears, green apples, vanilla sugar, polished horse chestnuts, and a waft of acetone. Neat, there is sweet fudge, runny caramels, and heat, but natural dilution dissipates the sweetness to boiled candy with faint cocoa. At this strength, it really takes water generously, illuminating fruitiness and softening the heat. Dry, sweet vanilla pricked with orange seals the finish. There’s a sweet spot where this is deliciously drinkable. (114 bottles) £190

Need more whisky? Of course you do! Try this then. It was matured in a sherry butt following distillation in 2005: savory, beefy, roasted meat juices, brisket bark, balsamic vinegar, new strips of colored plasticine, and chocolatey Guatemalan coffee beans. A sherried, soft, and wispy opener with a whiff of ginger, clove, plum, charred notes, raisins, and black bun: this youngster can handle itself alright. A cloying, clingy finish with heat, sweet sherry notes, and spices. Give it plenty!

We get off on the wrong foot with that vegetal note common to certain Strathclyde bottlings. It quickly blows over to release candied lemon and orange slices, fresh-baked honey biscuits, eucalyptus, clove, and eventually some fresh breath mints. Divinely sweet orange and lemon puddings, caramelized sugars close to burning, and soor plooms. Despite the lemon sweetness at the fringes, there remains a central core of mint and clove. Sherbet lemons fizz on the tongue to finish. All is forgiven. £88

The question with this sort of blended malt is whether the whole outperforms the sum of its parts. This is a big, rich, oily, and peaty whisky, suggesting both the Ledaig—the peated version of Tobermory and often a bland malt—and the Bowmore—capable of big smoke notes when it wants to—are firing on all cylinders. There's not much subtlety to it, but it's enjoyable all the same.€40

Big Peat looks incredibly pale in the glass this year, but his message is undiminished. Antiseptic, pine-scented floor cleaner, and an enveloping cloud of peat smoke with underlying peach and faint dabs of lemon. Sugary sweet, with lemon lozenges, light vanilla, caramel, and dark toffee, while a bowling, somersaulting smoky element gleefully turns cartwheels in the mouth. Hot, dry finish, like gargling with hot coals. Merry Peatmas everybody.

I was surprised to find that Grant’s blends were noticeable by their absence in the U.S. But with the purchase of Tuthilltown in New York and Tullamore Dew in Ireland, that is slowly changing; and here's proof. Beautiful, honeyed, rich, but the 40% ABV makes it the whisky equivalent of a radio DJ cutting off “Freebird” before the solo at the end. Still great, and indeed better than most competition, but not the classic it could be.

The style and class of the youngest was inspired by the classic elegance of Paris in the 1920s. Comprising Kininvie and Girvan married in tuns of Portuguese oak, this is pure, creamy goodness bathing in lemon meringue pie, vanilla tablet, and fresh oak shavings. A buttery-soft texture, the back of the palate kicks off with honey explosions, nougat, and toffee, backed with a distinct oakiness to remind you that it’s got much more to offer than just vanilla playfulness. £50 Travel Retail exclusive

Lemon and lime zest, stewed fruits drizzled in caramel, granola, butterscotch, and refined oak tones on the nose. The meatiness in Cragganmore’s new make spirit has long since mellowed in the cask. Light orange, vanilla, honey, and those nuggets of hard sherbet that spark up on the tongue. The second phase opens up toffee notes, wood spice, flapjacks, and ends with nougat and orange peel. (Batch 2; 130 bottles)

A smashing, rich sherry nose showcases rosehip, elderberry, scorched oak, pipe tobacco, roasted coriander seeds, and damp dunnage warehouses. The core of the flavor is the lush orange jelly hidden in McVitie’s Jaffa cakes, combined with clove, malt, treacle, dried mango, and ginger. Water draws out stronger performances from the malty notes, together with some red berry characteristics. Let it roll around the mouth, it’s terrific stuff (Batch 1, 148 bottles). £57

Lighter in character than the 50 year old, batch 4 offers aromas of caramel, artisanal chocolate, red fruits, polished brogues, and a fluttering of Asian spices. It has plenty of personality, with molasses, chocolate treacle cake, date, fig, bramble, and black currant, though those spices return, and then it gets rather woody. A sprightly older blend, but beginning to show its age. (1,428 bottles)

Like a throwback to childhood: fruity lollipops, Love Hearts, and gobstoppers. Stewed apple, crusty bread, and dry roasted coriander seeds add more dimension to the nose. The palate has toffee, orange peel, dates, and briefly flirts with chocolate and coffee, though this grain has mouth-drawing astringency and savory spices to balance the sweetness. Long finish of aniseed, spiced dark toffee, and charred oak.

Pronounced “Te Veg,” this has its roots in the Isle of Skye, and as there’s only one distillery there it’s highly likely that the odd
drop of Talisker has found its way into the mix. Whether it has or not, this is stirring stuff, non-chill filtered so that the flavors burst forth. As you might expect, it’s rugged with brine and chili, giving it a distinctive spice edge. But the delivery is a caramel fudge delight, with luxury chocolate praline in there too.

This example of Rosebank was distilled in March 1992, a year before the distillery’s closure, and bottled in December 2013. The cask yielded 141 bottles. The nose is light and mildly floral, with ripe pears, honey, and vanilla. Firm and fruity on the surprisingly full palate, with a sprinkling of white pepper, plus summer berries and caramel. Tropical fruit, soft spices, and benign oak in the finish, with a final flourish of licorice. £400

Pale gold. Lightly floral and perfumed. The impression of honey on warm buttered scones. As it opens, so this gentle complexity grows, and gives a sense of some substance. Water reveals a hint of malt, fruit syrups, and pear blossom. The palate is creamy and needs a drop of water to reveal the acid/sweet flavor of white currant, and a hint of marzipan. A classic example of a light whisky—and a distillery—which could easily be overlooked. Don’t. £74

A dense, suffocating fog of peat smoke, sea salt, dry seaweed on the high tide, and lemon-scented candles. Remember to come up for air once in a while. A supple, silky texture of lemon mousse, baked apple, vanilla, cinnamon, ginger, and a massive rush of pepper. Hold this in your mouth for as long as possible; the flavor delivery is impressively long and constantly evolving. Hot, drying finish, and, frankly, a relief from the peppery assault on the palate. £47

A 15 year old port cask-matured Ben Nevis that is as genre-defying as it gets. Deep port notes combine with strong iodine, honey, and malt in an inviting nose. This whisky simply roars on the palate, with big jammy fruit combined with salt, iodine, and a dash of smoke. Everything comes together in the mid-palate, with an alluring core of ginger, honey, and malt. A long, flavorful finish wraps up a whisky with unique character and unmistakable appeal. (U.S. only)

Distilled in September 2007 and matured in a first-fill bourbon barrel (#5315), this is a fine example of how good a relatively youthful Speyside malt can be, given the right cask. Soft and fragrant on the nose, with lemongrass, ginger snaps, and light toffee notes. The palate is sweet, with ripe strawberries and spicy fudge. A spicy finish offers cinnamon, milk chocolate, and lingering citrus fruits. (220 bottles)

Distilled in October 1995, this single cask was aged in a refill hogshead (#10206). Primrose, ginger, cedar spice, and malt on the nose, with a hint of salt and background heather; complex. Slightly oily on the palate, with orchard fruits, milk chocolate, a suggestion of brine, and developing cloves. Dries quite rapidly in the finish, with more cloves and light oak tannins. (190 bottles)

The nose opens with brine, fresh pine, sage, and sweet antiseptic. Peat, ginger, black pepper, lime, and lemon notes develop in time. Citrus fruits, caramel, and a peat-fueled barbecue on the palate, with background dark berries. The finish is medium in length, warming, and spicy, with plain chocolate and drying, crumbly peat. (Cask no. 13; 275 bottles)

Distilled in 2006 and aged 11 years in an oloroso hogshead (#101751). The nose offers butterscotch, sultanas, and developing caramel notes. Smooth and sweet on the palate, with banana, figs, malt, and a hint of sherry in the background. Medium to long in the finish, with a suggestion of lemon and insistent fruity spices. (224 bottles)

If you like sherried malts, you’ll love this! Bottled at a respectable strength too. Red apple, cherry skins, strawberry, raspberry, Eccles cake, malt loaf, and warming spices; there’s a lot to get your nose into here. A finely structured dram, with soft leather, rhubarb, Bramley apple, cherryade, fresh Victoria plum, pepper, and muted ginger deliver sustained flavors. A long, spicy, and peeled fruit finish. Given the distillery closures in 1983, there could be some interesting components in here. (464 bottles)

William Grant is making pioneering efforts to develop Girvan as a single grain whisky brand, with more to come. The aromas beckon with masses of buttery vanilla notes, fresh apple, cinnamon stick bundles, dark peel, and chocolate pralines. The creamy, unctuous texture packs in white chocolate, citrus, lime, chewy caramels, and pineapple, with soft American oak characteristics. Long finish of vanilla, ground cinnamon, and mint. One of the tastiest grains on the market: expensive, but still, it’s patently very good. £250

You can feel the power, taut and straining, underneath the sweet nose of powdered sugar, sliced banana in custard, packing straw from tea chests, apple fritters, and sweet oak. There’s instant gratification, as this colossal whisky is fit to burst with honey, tropical fruits, apple, melon, and strawberry candy. Water adds shafts of sweetness to the nose and more jamminess to the palate. Made in Glasgow in the fall of 1988 and delivered at perfect drinking strength: they’ve bottled sunshine. (154 bottles) £90

A wild aromatic opening — anise, sweet cicely, even a hint of wormwood — with more oak than the 21 year old, but not in a dominating fashion, rather just a framing device. Still fresh and acidic, with touches of a bridal bouquet, freshly baked warm sponge cake, walnut flesh, and, with water, a little bread-and-butter pudding. The acidity gives it a zippy, clean palate zestiness with cumin and angelica. Beautifully balanced. £400

Treacle tarts, black bun, and polished antique furniture, with fainter accents of dark chocolate, espresso, and delicate smoke flowing freely from the glass. Densely structured palate. Initially, chocolate-coated coffee beans, then it blossoms into dried fig, date, with a developing deep, tangy chocolate orange note, fading to dusty cocoa like the memory of a warm embrace. Not to be confused with Cutty Sark, this Storm is bottled by the Whisky Shack Company.

This expression was distilled during Arran’s second year of operation in September 1996 and bottled at 19 years of age. The single refill hogshead yielded 288 bottles. Sweet and malty on the slick nose, with honey, lively spices, and hints of pine. Ultimately, caramel and satsuma. Full on the palate, with juicy fruit, more malt and honey, and developing milk chocolate. Long and soft in the finish; lightly spiced, finally slightly citric, with a hint of brine and dry oak. £80

The North of Scotland distillery (formerly Strathmore distillery) was a neighbor of Cambus and operated from 1957-1980 in Clackmannanshire. Bottlings are few and far between. This one is quite forward. Apple peelings, baked apricot, cinnamon, nutmeg, sherry notes with oak wood, beef stock, and adhesives. It tastes sweet, vibrant, and juicy with red berry fruits, rosewater, strawberry cream soda, cherryade, and cough linctus. A slightly bitter finish punctures the juiciness. (310 bottles for UK, Europe, Scandinavia, and Japan) £165

Rosewater, polished antique oak furniture, nail polish remover, and clove on the nose. It’s fruit forward compared to other aged examples from this closed distillery; the spiced apple and baked plum are partnered by peppery heat and chili, ginger, and fleeting hints of coffee and cocoa. The flavors throb out of this one, producing a long-lasting experience ending with a dry finish of soft fruits and ginger. A splash of water coaxes out nougat and makes the spices behave. (162 bottles) £380

Rather elegant blend, with aromas of woodworker’s bench, salted cashew, and dried banana chips, all backed by gentle bonfire smoke. Creamy caramel toffee, Victoria sponge, red currant, raspberry, and more oak build into a thick, luscious mouthful. Any smoke drifts away in the initial seconds. Toffee and fruit linger, making a very lengthy finish. A masterful top of the range blend from La Martinquaise. Well worth seeking out. €55

Gentle peat smoke mixed with smoldering wood shavings, fresh maritime characteristics, and milk chocolate, but leave the glass a while, and when you return, the smoky intensity gets really pumped. Light melon flavors become engulfed by smoke, then the pepper, ginger, and chili kick in, leaving the soft fruit and vanilla cowering lamb-like in a corner. If you have peat smoke running in your veins, you will love this.

When in doubt, the answer to any question is usually ‘more whisky.’ Here, peat smoke takes an upper hand over the sweet aromas of juicy orange and pear. The whisky begins icing-sugar sweet, settles to bubble gum, pear, apple, and malt, showing its impeccably balanced, finely textured character replete with strands of oak spices, gentle smoke, baked pastry, and vanilla custard. You can’t go wrong at this price.

This is the first release in the distillery’s new core range for the U.S. After primary maturation in bourbon barrels, the 10 year old whisky undergoes a sherry cask finish. Orange marmalade, pine nuts, white pepper, and very subtle smokiness on the nose. The palate majors in overripe Jaffa oranges, ginger, and milk chocolate. The milk chocolate darkens in the medium-length finish, with coffee grounds and warming spice.

Was the short finish in Château La Louvière casks from Bordeaux’s Pessac-Léognan appellation sufficient to impact this peaty whisky? A gorgeous color with a nose of sooty, charcoal intensity, hints of chocolate, vanilla pod, clove, and peppercorn. Flavors of cherry, rhubarb, orange peel, and plums, speckled with aniseed, pepper, clove, and licorice indicate cask influence. Suggestions of menthol and peppermint, before a smoky finish with licorice and bitter chocolate. (20,000 bottles)

Every month seems to bring a new Octomore. Much is made of the peatiness of the malt used, but just as important is the way in which it is distilled and matured. It is these two aspects that give it sweetness and balance. This is minty, honey-sweet, with meadowsweet, some dried lavender, tinned peaches, and that hot sand note typical of Bruichladdich. The smoke is merely suggestive, giving an integrated power. 5 years old? Who knows what might happen next?

Heavily peated Bunnahabhain spirit, referred to as Margadale, was used for this bottling and matured in refill sherry butts. Savory on the nose, with smoky brine, plain chocolate, and Granny Smith apples. The palate offers similar green apple notes, along with sweet peat, cocoa, and licorice. Wood smoke and pipe tobacco in the medium-length finish.

Peated to 14.8 ppm, this expression from anCnoc’s Peaty Collection falls between Rutter and Cutter in terms of its phenolic level. Immediately smoky on the nose, with oily fudge and milky coffee. Well-balanced in the mouth, with rich flavors of peat, soft fruit, and vanilla, plus a hint of brine and iodine. The finish is lengthy, with peat embers, walnuts, and more iodine.

A single cask, cask strength whisky finished in a first-fill bourbon barrel. The initial nose is slightly earthy, with walnuts, Juicy Fruit gum, vanilla, and ripe peach notes in time. Full, sweet fruit notes on the palate, peaches in syrup, overripe pineapple, with milk chocolate, fudge, and nutmeg. The finish is medium in length and perennially spicy, with aniseed notes. (Cask no. 170)

Aged in bourbon wood, then finished in an oloroso sherry cask. The result is a whisky with a nutty nose, plus sultanas, figs, vanilla, and background sherry, becoming more floral in time. Full-bodied on the palate, with sweet sherry notes, ginger, and cinnamon, and developing raisin and prune notes. The finish is long, with spicy coffee and blackberries. (Cask no. 900160)

This noble Scot consists of a blend of 20 different whiskies and impresses with its nose of hazelnut, dark chocolate, vanilla pod, menthol, peppercorn, and wisps of damp wood smoke. Warm chocolate fudge, mellow spices, dark burnished orange, smooth oak, old leather, and malted milk. The mouthfeel is weighty enough to sustain the heavyweight flavors. Long finish of dark rum, cocoa, and spiced chocolate. Just add your own favorite leather armchair. Value pick.

Aromas of oloroso sherry, strawberry, almond paste, clove, licorice Allsorts, black treacle, and smoke from burning haystacks. Honeyed palate with citrus elements, light lemon, green melon, pear, redcurrant, and pineapple, brightened by some well-rounded spices and root ginger. It glides into a mouthful of chocolate-coated digestive biscuits with a little smoke, then a finish of citrus oils, fruit skins, and active spices. Brilliant and satisfying.

There appears to be a concerted effort to bring this distillery out of the shadows: A Good Thing in my opinion. This limited
release is very Cardhu, with masses of mandarin, dried peach, and honey, reminiscent of a fine oxidized Chinese Phoenix Oolong tea, while still retaining the effervescent buzz of youth. Akin to a fine Cuban rum on the tongue, with bittersweet chocolate, dark cherry, and tangy, spicy life, it dies a little quickly, but is a lovely dram. £160

This torchbearer for the Compass Box Scotch Whisky Transparency campaign is looking for your support. A fruit medley of lemon, lime, gooseberry cream, and soft pineapple chunks. Ripe apple and pear from the orchard are given a fresh, spicy lift and integrate with the vanilla and sweet toffee notes. It makes a clean exit with lengthy spices and juiciness, never becoming bitter. One thing is clear, it’s a finely structured dram worthy of your vote. (5,922 bottles)

This is a special bottling for London department store Selfridge's, but it represents a clever strategy by artisan Compass Box to set its own agenda by regionalizing its whiskies. This is a long way from the New York blend—indeed, creamier and sweeter than other recent releases. It has a honey heart, traces of cinnamon, and menthol in the mix, plus wispy smoke. There's some spice and peat late on, but in relatively subdued form. Very pleasant. £85

Great King Street was our Blend of the Year two years ago and Compass Box wondered where to take it next. So they have released two versions, asking customers to decide between them by voting online. The other one is peated and will probably win easily, which is a shame, because this is a more subtle and better whisky. Sherry, syrup, honey, apple, and sultanas are all here, but nuanced. Delightful. £30

Gold color. Delicate aromas of tropical fruits (coconut, pineapple, mango), marshmallow and vanilla. Light in body, with delicate exotic flavors that deliver what the aroma promises. Soft, gentle, delicately creamy finish.

Bottled as London's Big Ben began to strike midnight on the day that the word 'vatted' was outlawed in Scotch whisky terminology, this is a mix of grains from different distilleries and does the campaign for more Scotch grain whisky no harm at all.  Gossamer soft and smooth with a honeycomb heart and milk chocolate, vanilla, and the odd prod of spice, it's a cushion of a whisky. Luxurious, indulgent, and well made. £125 

Just eight whiskies in the blend, married and finished in first fill Spanish sherry and bourbon casks. An insistent nose, crackling with spices, with toasted Eccles cake anointed with grated nutmeg, vanilla extract, cassia, and dark soy sauce. Light honey and vanilla, tangerine oils, and lime peel exhibit perfectly-paced development, with flavor building over a minute or more. Warming ginger, spices, and tropical fruits of guava and papaya close out this first annual special edition. Impressive work.

An example that older, more expensive isn’t always better, this 18 year old gem is as good as many blends twice its price. The foundation of Johnnie Walker Gold is delicate, clean, and honeyed, along with a fresh sea character (from Clynelish?) that provides a youthful zing. Notes of vanilla, shortbread, tropical fruit, freshly cut hay, marshmallow, and even a hit of peat, round out the palate. Its finish is subtly complex and nicely balanced. The blend has improved nicely over the past several years. 

Blender Aimée Gibson set out to make a sundowner scotch by incorporating whiskies matured in wine casks. The blueberry, blackcurrant, and fresh oak aromas continue on to the palate: fruit compote, raspberry, strawberry, and lingonberry with light spices. A late resurgence of dark toffee, chocolate, and cigar smoke blow into the finish. Sip away by all means, but this fruity sensation calls to be served up in long, cool drinks.

Chivas's new entry into the premium blend category. A complex whisky (on the nose and palate) in the same vein as Chivas 18, only deeper, with more caramelized sweetness, darker fruit, and greater emphasis on dried spices and roasted nuts (and perhaps even tobacco). Everything moves along nicely -- and entertainingly -- until the whisky approaches the finish on the palate. Its age begins to show, as spicy oak dryness and suggestions of polished leather begin to dominate through to the finish. An enjoyable whisky, but I prefer the 18 year old to the 25 year old for its impeccable balance.

A charmingly sweet nose with Christmas cake, swollen raisin, dates, sticky toffee pudding, walnut, nutmeg, and gentle spices confirm the presence of the oloroso cask at work. An oily texture, with butterscotch, tangy peel, and mandarin, becoming darker and nutty, with sultana and plum skin shading into menthol and streaks of bitterness. Finally, Brazil nut, macadamia, and clove, with a hot, dry, nutty finish. (771 bottles)

Matured in a mix of bourbon and sherry casks. It offers a nose redolent of Christmas pudding: figs, sultanas, orange, honey, and cream. Smooth on the palate with sweet spicy sherry, orchard fruits, and caramel. Raisins and plain chocolate in the lingering finish, with Jaffa orange notes to the end.

A prime component in Dewar’s blended scotch. The finer bottles of Aberfeldy are quite flavorful, yet still maintain a degree of elegance and finesse. This bottling is an excellent example of this. Its dominant flavor note is fruit (orange, honeydew melon), with some creamy vanilla notes, caramel, and light toffee. Subtle spice notes and a hint of peat tease the palate. The extra aging adds depth to the whisky, yet this whisky remains quite clean and fresh on the palate. Subtly spicy, gently dry finish. Nicely done! (Exclusive to Binny’s Beverage Depot, Chicago, IL.) 

Independent releases of the Perthshire single malt Aberfeldy are relatively rare, and the first batch of That Boutique-y Whisky Company’s no age statement Aberfeldy runs to 155 numbered bottles. The nose features coconut ice, vanilla, malt, candied peel, and ginger. Good mouthfeel, with more malt, ginger-nut biscuits, icing sugar, and milk chocolate. The finish is drying, with oak and black pepper. £65/500 ml

Maybe not as massive as its higher-strength brother (see above), but don’t think that this is light. There’s immediate grumbling peatiness, mixed with dark chocolate, lanolin, and tamarind, while the spiciness brings to mind tandoori food. There’s still the seaweed element, while the lower strength pulls things into a darker core—coal tar soap, damp moss. A very oily palate, that with water takes you onto the peat bog. Seashells on a fire and more smoke round things off.

A single cask of Ardmore aged in a first-fill bourbon cask and then finished in quarter casks. This one is more mature, with more depth than the standard Ardmore Traditional Cask (which I rated 80 a few years back). Notes of toffee, vanilla bean, chocolate fudge, licorice stick, bourbon, tar, charcoal, and a hint of burnt raisin. Very nice! (A Julio’s Liquors Exclusive.) 

Complex, dynamic, and well-balanced. Honeyed vanilla, bright fruit (lemon, tangerine, nectarine), sultana, green grapes, and banana bread, peppered with ginger and subtle, gripping grape skin. Great mouth-feel (from the oak), which adds another dimension. That’s what 46% and no chill-filtering will do for a whisky. One of the better Arran whiskies I’ve tasted. (Released in 2009. Sadly not available in the U.S.)£38

The latest limited release in the Icons of Arran series was distilled in 1999 and matured in fourteen ex-bourbon barrels and seven sherry hogsheads. Initially launched in the UK, but global availability is anticipated. A sprinkling of coconut, vanilla, and spices, with pears, melons, and pineapple on the nose. Full and fruity on the palate, becoming maltier and nuttier. Sweet spices, especially stem ginger, and a hint of honey. Drying slowly in the very spicy finish (6,000 bottles). £42

This U.S.-exclusive Premium Bourbon Single cask #2096 contrasts nicely with its sherry cask-matured sibling, and offers vanilla, cocoa powder, malt extract, ripe bananas, and spicy sultanas on the nose. The palate is smooth and spicy, with ginger snaps and developing butteriness. The finish is medium to long, with chili notes and citrus fruits at the last. 

The ancient variety of barley known as bere that was used to make this Arran single malt was grown on Orkney and distilled in 2004. It was matured for eight years in bourbon barrels, and 5,800 bottles have been released. Very fruity on the nose, principally peaches, with vanilla and fudge, something slightly herbal, wet grass, and finally homemade lemonade. Oily mouthfeel, with fresh oak, cloves, and wild berries. An atypical Arran! The finish is drying and moreish.  £48

A limited edition of 12,000 bottles, this expression from Arran was initially matured in first-fill bourbon barrels before a secondary period of aging in American oak quarter casks, which accelerated maturation. A big hit of tinned peaches, then malt, cinnamon, vanilla, and caramel. Sweet and rounded on the palate, with lots of fresh fruit, notably pineapple, plus caramel, chili, and ginger. Relatively long in the fruity finish, with brittle toffee, new oak, and persistent spice. £55

This 1977 ‘house’ vintage expression has been matured for 32 years in oloroso sherry casks. Just 240 bottles have been produced. Delicate, sweet, and floral on the nose, with old leather, caramel, vanilla, and malt. The caramel deepens with time. The palate is initially sweet, smooth, and malty, with pear drops; becoming nuttier, with soft oak in the medium-length finish. £370 Currently not available in the U.S. 

The latest triple distilled bottling from the Lowland distillery of Auchentoshan has been matured for 35 years in bourbon casks and is presented non-chill filtered and at cask strength. Just 500 bottles are available globally. Apple crumble and custard on the nose, with developing cereal notes. Smooth and enticing. Spice, fresh fruits, honey, and marzipan on the buttery palate, which ultimately becomes drier. The finish is long and discreetly drying, with spices, malted barley, and a citrus tang in the tail.Price is approximate.

This is the second batch of Silveroak 1990 from Auchentoshan, and it has benefited from an extra year of maturation in bourbon and oloroso sherry casks. The 22 year old is exclusive to Travel Retail outlets. Notably floral on the nose, with fudge, banana, ginger, and attractive oak. On the palate it delivers vanilla, apricots, apples, more ginger, and oak. The finish is long and spicy, with dark coffee notes and a hint of menthol. Greater complexity than its predecessor.

Balblair has followed up the first release of its 1975 vintage bottling with a second, which differs significantly in character, having been matured in American oak sherry casks, whereas the initial release had been aged in Spanish oak sherry casks. Floral, mellow, and slightly oily on the nose, with a savory background and ready-salted crisps. Silky smooth on the palate, with citrus fruit, a hint of wood smoke, coconut, and honey. The finish is spicy, with aniseed and oak.

Balblair Vintage 2003 replaces the previous 2002 expression, matured in second-fill bourbon barrels, with the contents of eighteen making up this first release. Tinned peaches and apricot jam on the nose, with underlying honey and caramel. Early malt, then zesty lemon notes on the palate, which also features freshly-cut grass and hazelnuts. The medium-length finish yields white pepper and cocoa powder.

Launched in December 2015, the first release of Balblair’s Vintage 2005 replaces the previous 2003 expression. This is the youngest bottling in the brand’s portfolio. It was matured in bourbon barrels and is non-chill filtered. The nose is relatively light and fruity: vanilla, ripe bananas, honey, a wisp of smoke, and soft spices.  Toffee, malt, vanilla, a biscuit-like note, more bananas, and new leather on the palate, closing with a lengthy, spicy finish.

After the 68’s quiet nature, we reach Balvenie in fully mature, robust character—well, as robust as Balvenie ever gets. That means more cask-derived notes of vanilla ice, butterscotch, crème brûlée, and a jag of citrus bringing you to your senses. There’s squidgy caramel toffee and the honey is now fixed in the comb adding that distinct waxiness of old, gently matured whisky. The biggest and sweetest of the series. Excellent.

This was aged in a refill American oak hogshead, as was the 1981 expression. Like that variant, it has pineapple and lemon on the nose and also yields milk chocolate, green apples, and fresh-sawn wood. Smooth, full, and sweet on the palate, again with very ripe tropical fruits, plus apple pie. The finish is medium in length; quite austere.

Very traditional West Highland style: somewhat rustic, muscular, and oily in texture, with notes of leather, bourbon, espresso, orange peel, kiwi, and a suggestion of ultra-aged Caribbean rum. Occasionally, a softer side of vanilla and coconut shows itself, but, if this whiskey were a man, he would be a lumberjack. 

Very robust and chewy-this whisky has plenty of gusto-with notes of toffee, vanilla cream, bitter chocolate, powdered cocoa, and almond fig cake. Background citrus (especially on the nose), tobacco, and polished leather. Nice depth for such a young whisky, and very exciting. 

This single cask 17 year old expression of Ben Nevis was matured in a sherry butt which yielded 747 bottles. It appears in Carn Mor’s “Strictly Limited” series of releases and has not been chill filtered. The bold nose opens with slightly savory notes and hard-boiled eggs. Sherry, malt, and figs subsequently develop. Quite full-bodied, with rich Jaffa orange and developing plain chocolate on the palate. More dark chocolate and a suggestion of fennel in the medium-length finish. £55

Leafy bonfire smoke, damp kiln, tar, anise, dark chocolate, and a hint of clove. All this is balanced by an underlying malty foundation and a kiss of honey, vanilla, and tropical fruit. Nice to see single cask, cask strength bottlings of peated BenRiach. (Exclusive to The Party Source.) 

It’s very exciting to see a peated Speyside whisky; they are so rare these days. Ideally, the peat smoke will add an additional dimension to the whisky without dominating the whisky’s other flavors. Most Speysiders are big enough to embrace the smoke, as is the case with this expression of BenRiach. The turfy peat smoke is offset nicely by layers of sweetness (oatcakes, butterscotch, vanilla, and honeyed malt) and soft fruit. Dry, smoking ember finish. A steep price for a 10 year old whisky-whisky prices have been climbing faster than real estate lately-but this whisky is worth its price. 

The most richly textured and complex of the unpeated expressions. Base notes of honeyed malt and creamy vanilla are complemented by citrus fruit (lemon, tangerine), coconut, bitter chocolate, exotic wood shavings, and a hint of assorted nuts. Polished oak finish. 

This bottling replaces the 15 year old Tawny Port Wood Finish. After first maturating in bourbon barrels, finishing took place in tawny port casks. The nose offers vanilla and milky coffee, with peppery red berries and a hint of plain chocolate. Vanilla, toffee, orange, and spicy oak on the palate, while the finish is long and warming, with more spicy oak. £110

Introduced in 2004, Curiositas was the first peated expression to be marketed by BenRiach. It has been peated to 55ppm and matured in bourbon casks. Mildly medicinal earthy peat on the nose, hot road tar, honey, and light tropical fruit aromas. Iodine and smoky peat on the palate, with mineral notes, dried fruits, allspice, and oak. More oak in the medium-length finish, with peanut and peppery peat.

The aim with Benromach was always to rediscover an older Speyside style, and this shows how well owner Gordon & MacPhail has succeeded. There’s a profound sherried introduction, just a little malt, then it is all fruitcakes and light smoke. The palate is properly old-style and oily, with some pleasing zingy orange peel toward the back of the palate. Chewy and medium-bodied with good layering.

This vintage Benromach has been finished in Sassicaia wine casks from the Bolgheri wine region of Italy after maturation in first-fill bourbon barrels. Red currants and warm peat, ginger, and vanilla on the nose. Initially, juicy fruit on the palate, but soon drier than expected from the nose. Dark berry fruits and subtle smoke develop. Relatively long in the finish, with gentle spices. Ultimately, sweeter soft fruit notes return. (8,000 bottles)

The latest version of the first certified organic Scotch whisky is a creamy malt that has lashings of vanilla, banana peel, and pecan pie aromas. Smooth, malty flavors abound. Banoffee pie topped with sliced banana, apple, nectarine, and ripe peach, with a good flare of peppery spices. Fuzzy, earthy spice, then an outro of sweet fudge. With water, more green fruit, melon, tropical fruits, and a little chili kick emerge.

Bright gold color, and bright in flavor. Very much in the Bladnoch style, with honey-kissed lemon, tangerine, kiwi, creamy vanilla, lightly toasted marshmallow, marzipan, cut grass, and hay. Richly textured for a Lowland, and palate-coating (a tad oily, too!). The extra years have added some depth, while still retaining a youthful zest. Very enjoyable.

Samsara’s (reviewed winter 2016) younger sibling Adela presents an altogether different profile, having been matured in oloroso casks. Like Samsara, it has not been chill filtered. The nose is nutty, with quite dry sherry notes and prickly spice. Finally, fragrant toffee emerges. Very supple in the mouth, where the sherry becomes sweeter, along with black currants, licorice, and then black pepper. The finish is medium in length, dry, and peppery.

Matured in a port pipe. The third in a trilogy (the other two being bourbon and sherry cask-aged). I like this one better than the sherry cask 1990 vintage, but not quite as much as the bourbon cask bottling which was in our Top Ten whiskies two years ago. Lovely amber ruby color. The port flavors are obvious, but not sappy or dominating. They’re clean, and contribute a layered sweetness and ripe red berry fruit notes to the traditional, moderately peated Bowmore smoke and peat. Lingering smoke and chocolate on the finish. 

Medium-bodied and nicely textured. Good balance of flavors -- and well-integrated, too -- with lovely sweet notes (cereal grain, cookie dough, caramel, and vanilla cream), young heathery peat, tar, fishnets, and brine that is complementary, but not aggressive, with a suggestion of lavender and tangerine. Balanced finish. (332 bottles produced.)

Last year’s was a top-notch, defiantly sherried example of Bowmore. This year’s batch thrusts equally boldly, but starts in a more Japanese-accented fashion: think soy, miso paste, and salmon teriyaki. Light leather, with hickory campfire smoke coming through strongly. The big, oily, tarry palate is like a spent barbecue with a hint of skidding car tires on Bowmore High Street. So, still a belter, but why so limited? Beam Suntory, please sort it out! (6,000 bottles) £60

It’s only right that the first single malt scotch given a period of time (3 years in this case) in Japanese oak (mizunara) casks is from Beam Suntory-owned Bowmore. It’s a fascinating mix of the vanilla, spice, and incense notes of mizunara and Bowmore’s distillery characteristics. You get rich peat, black pepper, apricot, and peach all playing alongside each other. The palate is clean and lighter than the nose suggests, with a fresh zestiness before the smoke leans back in.

Aged in a sherry cask, and the sherry is clean and bright. I’m also picking up a good dose of warming peat smoke, along with molasses, and a gentle maltiness throughout. A peppering of subtle brine and a hint of seaweed peak through occasionally, reminding one of its Islay roots. 

Bright gold color. Fresh, appetizing aroma of vanilla malt, honey, brine, and subtle tropical fruit. Light to medium in body and slightly oily in texture. Delicious, fresh, subtly complex flavors of vanilla malt, sea salt, subtle tropical fruit, and fresh herbs, finishing dry and lightly spicy.
   Style: Islay single malt Scotch whisky. Price: high $70s. Available nationwide. 
   Since the owners of Murray McDavid also control the Bruichladdich distillery, one would expect a good bottling. This is a good one indeed, and very exciting to drink. It is nicely matured, fresh, and deliciously appetizing-almost mouth-watering.

This is six year old, 40 ppm phenol (very smoky) whisky distilled at Bruichladdich, bottled at cask strength and enhanced in Madeira casks. A young whisky, but mature enough to say that it’s not too young. The immediate impact is damp peat smoke and smoldering charcoal. If you are patient and observant enough (and with an addition of water), you’ll coax notes of vanilla, berried fruit, pear, green apple, and underlying spice (fresh mint, anise), all leading to a briny, smoldering smoke finish. A cult whisky for those who like to push the envelope. When compared to its predecessor, PC5, PC6 is slightly darker in color, creamier, fruitier, and a shade softer. Given this, I still prefer the PC5 over the PC6 for its clarity and innocence.

The fresher of the two, with appetizing brine, honey, lemon rock candy, golden raisin, and peach. Subtle ginger, toasted marshmallow, and coconut round out the palate. Very bright and lively. 

Vanilla fudge, barley grist, fresh sea spray, berries, and nuts all integrated nicely. A gentle, comforting dram that accommodates many moods and situations. 

Full gold in color, this Bunna initially has the lifted Moscatel aroma that’s reminiscent of a fine Darjeeling leaf tea, then comes melting milk chocolate and touches of sweet cinnamon toast. The palate continues in this sweet vein, but has the distillery’s characteristic thickness in the mid-palate, as well as plenty of its signature fresh ginger note. With water, there are some baked fruits and a hint of flowers. Altogether delicious and subtly complex. 

Here’s an Islay distillery which has never quite had the investment it deserves. Hopefully this limited release is the start of an addressing of that situation. It has a classic nose with ginger (crystallized) to the fore alongside toasted almond and the balsamic note that you sometimes get with extra-mature whiskies, manifested here as mulberry vinegar. The mouth has coconut, some grip, and — though it fades a little speedily — retained fire. Take with water on the side.  £1,999 

The Islay character is most evident in the younger whisky expressions, before the oak has tamed them. This whisky is a perfect example: an uninhibited, incredibly powerful Caol Ila, thumping out notes of tarry rope, damp peat, kippers, and seaweed. Background spices (salt, pepper, ginger) add intrigue, while a firm foundation of vanilla malt struggles to provide soothing comfort. Extreme Islay whisky. (A Binny’s Beverage Depot exclusive.) 

Bright fruit throughout (red raspberry, strawberry-rhubarb pie, gooseberry, red currant, nectarine), honeyed malt, dark chocolate, tarry rope, seaweed soaked in olive brine, and ground pepper. Tarry finish. Nicely balanced, well-defined flavors, and fully mature at 10 years of age.

With no great wood on show, this is a Caol Ila which is time—not oak—driven. A very scented, nay herbal start, like bouquet garni with light smoke, grapefruit, sea-washed stones, ozone, and heather blossom. The retention of aromatics is gorgeous. Water increases the peat effect but diminishes the aromatics, so take your choice. Well worth a look.

Restrained, ozonic, with no great smokiness to open, but there is a touch of green grass behind meadow flowers and salt-washed stones so typical of the distillery. With water another marker—drying fishing nets—comes through, with breaths of the sea. Subtle and refined. More smoke on the palate, where it’s like a flowering currant bush on fire. Great balance of different elements: smoke, fragrance, oil, acidity. With water, real saltiness comes through. Very good. £99

The now-annual unpeated release shows its high strength on the nose, but under the burn is a clean, mineral, and slightly lean Caol Ila with just a tiny whiff of smoke. A mix of grassiness/herbal notes, with delicate white fruits that plump out into tinned fruit salad, gooseberry, and fresh pineapple. The palate is sweet and cake-like, while the heat enhances its salty tang. Delightful, sweet, and long. (10,668 bottles)

It’s good to see an official distillery bottling of Clynelish in the U.S. This one is very true to the Clynelish style: fresh, appetizing, and very drinkable. Notes of brine, fruit (lemon-lime), and vanilla-accented malt, are the foundation of this whisky. Delicate seaweed, peat, exotic pepper and a hint of citrus rind bitterness entertain the palate throughout, all the way to its appetizingly briny, seaweed-tinged finish. Perhaps the definitive aperitif whisky. 

Refill sherry hogsheads have been used to mature the latest Gordon & MacPhail bottling of Clynelish, the most northerly distillery in Diageo’s portfolio. Initially quite earthy on the nose, with mustard seeds, pepper, and contrasting malt. Becoming progressively sweeter and less complex. Quite oily in texture, the earthiness carries over from the nose onto the palate, then sweet fruit notes, malt, and spice emerge, plus a delicate thread of smoke. The finish dries slowly, with a hint of peat.

This 15 year old bottling of Diageo’s Sutherland single malt comes courtesy of The Creative Whisky Co., whose Exclusive Malts range of single cask, cask strength Scotch malt whiskies has recently been imported into the U.S. Fleeting burnt sugar on the nose, then mango and brittle toffee. Vanilla emerges, with slightly smoky malt. Finally, cloves. Mouth-coating, with lively spices, fruit and nut milk chocolate on the palate. Relatively long in the finish, with ginger snaps and a wax-like texture.

The latest Wemyss single cask release of Clynelish from the distillery at Brora in Sutherland runs to 258 bottles and has been matured in a hogshead. Freshly-sliced green apples on the nose, slightly peppery, with grated nutmeg and salted caramels. Relatively full-bodied, with lots of soft fruit, principally Jaffa oranges, and sweet spice. Spicy caramel and cocoa powder in the slowly drying, medium-length finish. £75

Matured in port casks. The standard Cragganmore 12 year old is one of Scotland’s best kept secrets-I enjoy its incredibly complex, dry, spicy character. The port contributes ripe fruit flavors (cherries in syrup, golden raisins, mandarin, glazed berries) which complements the dry spicy notes nicely and makes for a more balanced product. Still, for this, the whisky sacrifices some of its individuality and brilliancy with all that port. A fair trade-off, though. 

This oft-overlooked Speysider has been frustratingly variable in the past, but now seems to have hit greater consistency. Worm tubs and weird stills combine to give a complex malt, but one that needs help from oak to blossom fully. There are hedgerow aromas: black currant leaf, hawthorn berries, and lots of honey. A chestnut note continues on the tongue where, on the finish, a hint of smoke lurks. 

Aged in American oak for 14 years and then finished off in Spanish sherry butts for several more. A rich, lush, sherried Dalmore expression. Fruity notes of succulent orange, strawberry rhubarb tart, and sultana, on a bed of toffee and vanilla. A peppering of cinnamon, lemon rock candy, chocolate-covered coffee bean, and lavender adds complexity. Perhaps a little heavy-handed with the sherry, but still, it’s a solid effort and a Dalmore to enjoy after dinner or as a nightcap. 

Comprising 100 percent whisky matured in oloroso sherry casks, the Tay Dram is fresh and vibrant on the nose, with fruit and toffee. Fuller bodied than the Tweed or Dee Drams, with more overt evidence of sherry, followed through by honey, almonds, coffee, and toffee. Dark chocolate is to the fore in the lengthy finish — this time closer to chocolate orange confectionery. £42 Currently not available in the U.S.

The Dalmore has added a new expression to its Travel Retail portfolio, namely Valour. This variant carries no age statement and maturation began in first-fill bourbon casks and 30 year old Matusalem oloroso sherry butts before undergoing a finishing period in port pipes. The result is a nose of black currants, caramel, and musty sherry. The palate is medium-sweet, with damsons, Jaffa oranges, and printer’s ink. Dark berries emerge in time. The finish embraces drying spices, figs, and mildly astringent oak. 

Style: Highland single malt scotch Color: Gold Aroma: Quite fruity (especially apples). Hint of honey and caramel with subtle background oak. Prickling alcohol before the addition of water. Palate: Smooth and mouth-coating. Nicely balanced. Delicately honeyed fruit notes up from, followed by oak and toffee, becoming dry and spicy with pleasant lingering oak. 

Equally honeyed; in fact here the finish (oloroso this time) seems to enhance the sweetness. Out comes Manuka honey, Greek yogurt, and heavy blossom notes while the sherry itself brings in a nutty, polished note. There’s just a hint of sulfur when you add water (Dalwhinnie is a sulfury new make). The finish is long with some Brazil nut. Try frozen with dessert.

Distilled in 1997 and bottled in 2014, this expression of Dalwhinnie spent a period finishing in oloroso sherry casks. The nose offers honey, ripe oranges, peach blossom, and creamy milk chocolate, with just a wisp of smoke. Full-bodied and sweet on the palate, with orange zest, walnuts, more honey, and fruit spices. The finish is long and warming, with a hint of peat and spicy oak.

Gold color. Aromas of toffee, nuts, and a hint of mint. Medium in body, with a malty, coating texture. The flavors evolve on the palate, with toffee up front, malty sweetness in the middle and nutty, finishing pleasantly dry with a hint of mint and vanilla. 

A release chosen by Douglas Maclean (and named after his song “Caledonia”). Full sherry impact, but contained—not excessive or sappy. Rich, with nutty toffee, pot still rum, a variety of raisins (regular and golden), date, honeyed fruit, polished leather, and a hint of tobacco. Good resinous grip on the finish to balance the sweetness. The flavors are nicely integrated. 

Edradour, in Perthshire, is owned by independent bottler Signatory, who has released a wide variety of expressions during the past few years. However, the standard 12 year old remains a classic of its kind.  Cider apples, malt, almonds, vanilla, and honey on the nose, along with a hint of smoke and sherry. The palate is creamy and malty, with a persistent nuttiness and quite pronounced sherry, plus a touch of leather. Spices and sherry dominate the medium to long finish. 

Matured in a “rejuvenated European oak” cask. Balance: that’s what I like best about this whisky. It’s not as individualistic or distinctive as the others, but that’s how I always think of Glen Elgin, so no surprise here. This is a solid effort: fruity and flowery, with notes of tangerine, marmalade, caramel apple, ginger, cut grass, cinnamon, almond paste, and underlying vanilla, lingering in a satisfying finish. (534 bottles) £250

The least well-known of the Fogwatt trio which includes Longmorn and BenRiach, it’s unlikely that Glen Elgin will become a major brand anytime soon, given how important it is to blenders. A combination of long, slow ferments, and distillation coupled with worm tubs gives a ludicrously fruity spirit, which here is bulging with ripe peach, apricot, and Galia melon coated in cinnamon and nutmeg, given thick weight by the worm tubs. A classic. £34

Amber chestnut color. Aromas are rich and express great depth, with highlights of ripe fruit and wood spices. Well-rounded flavors are balanced very nicely, with a gentle sweetness up front that marries well with ripe fruit, becoming dry with background wood spice notes. 

Old gold in color. Obviously an old whisky, but a delicate one that has subtle complexities; the balance between the dried grass/hayloft, the dried orange peel, and stewed apple, for example. Sweet and fragrant, it shows chypre notes with water alongside a more gentle floral aspect. The palate is drier than the nose suggests, quite mineral, with a lacy character. The finish shows melon and mint. Glen Grant in gentle repose.£88

Deep ruby with a yellow rim. Clearly mature, and heavily sherried. A highly concentrated nose: Marmite and soy sauce, and all the fresh fruits of youth reduced to essence. Drinkwise, it’s closest to Chinato: curative barks, dried herbs (mint, hyssop, oregano). The palate is unsurprisingly thick and lightly smoky, but the tannins aren't overly astringent, and there remains a sweet core still, even if the overall effect is dark. It’s not obviously Glen Grant, but it is a fascinating glass.

Bright gold color. Big and firm on the palate. Quite fruity too (tangerine, pear, sultana, pineapple), on a dry malty foundation. Lighter notes of grass, hay, linseed oil, and dried vanilla add complexity. Dried fruit and malt finish. A really nice dram with gobs of character.

Glen Scotia has always been the bridesmaid to Springbank. This is justifiable, considering that both production and availability of quality bottlings have been sporadic over the past decade or so. I like this one. It really shows the simple, coastal pleasantness of this Campbeltown distillery. Ripe malty notes are accompanied by brine, cut hay, banana cream pie, and honeyed vanilla. Lingering salty, malty finish. With all the sherried and wine-finished Springbanks recently on the market (not that there’s anything wrong with that), here’s a nice, no-frills, Campbeltown whisky. 

The nose gives a whiff of vanilla fudge, then black pepper, sea salt, and a savory note develops. The palate yields maritime-tinged candied fruits and effervescent smoke. Slightly tarry in the finish. Macho!

Whiskies in Douglas Laing’s new Old Particular range are non-chill filtered and bottled at three strengths, with those aged 19 years and over being offered at 51.5%. This Glen Scotia was distilled in May 1992 and boasts a nose of violets, musky malt, soft smoke, and a fresh sea breeze. Big, spicy, and quite oily on the palate, with dark berries, black tea, and a note of tar. Long and dark in the finish, with oak tannins and persistent licorice. £85

The most expensive of Glen Scotia’s new trio has been finished in deeply-charred barrels and bottled non-chill filtered at cask strength. Soft and sweet on the nose, with peaches, fudge, and a hint of oak. Full-bodied and slightly oily on the palate, with wood spices, vanilla, and blackberries. Smoky ginger and lively char in the lengthy finish.

Although this distillery is operating, it remains one of the hardest Speyside whiskies to find. This is unfortunate. A fairly straight-forward whisky-pleasingly malty and somewhat viscous on the palate, with some grassy notes. The extra years, with this particular bottling anyway, have allowed the whisky to blossom, become a little more intriguing and heavier. Along with malt and grassy notes, I’m picking up citrus fruit (especially on the nose), toffee, nuts, freshly ground roasted cocoa beans, nougat, and vanilla fudge. 

This is a single cask (#729) bottling, distilled in 1982, and the outturn was just 260 bottles. Soft and supple on the waxy nose, with worn leather, Jaffa oranges, and malt. Lots of leather, with brittle toffee, orange creams, and a slightly musty note on the full palate. Mouth-drying in the lengthy finish, but the tannins never come close to overwhelming. £280

Over the past decade there has been no shortage of Glendronach expressions. I know of at least one 15 year old, an 18 year old, a 19 year old, a 1968 vintage, and four different 12 year old versions. My favorite of the range was the limited edition 19 year old released here in the U.S. about a decade ago. The 1968 Vintage, which you can still find on retailers’ shelves, is also a worthy dram. But this new 12 year old “Original” expression is certainly my favorite of the 12s (and the 15). I feel that Glendronach expresses itself best when it is not dominated by the sherry, allowing a greater balance of flavors. This whisky was originally matured in sherry casks, but was then (fortunately) aged in bourbon casks for the remainder of its maturation. The result? A richly flavored, nicely balanced whisky expressing notes of sherried fruit, burnt caramel, light toffee, and nuts, all underpinned by a soothing malty foundation. Yum! 

The rich, sweet Sauternes dessert wine adds its signature. Quite lush, with golden raisin, crème brûlée, rhubarb pie, honey-kissed citrus, and creamy vanilla. A lovely example of a dessert whisky — comforting, warming, and embracing. (I would also enjoy this after a brunch of crepes, fresh fruit, and maple syrup.) 

This batch of GlenDronach’s popular cask strength has been aged in a combination of oloroso and Pedro Ximenez sherry casks. Malt, honey, rose blossom, and chocolate-coated Turkish Delight, plus emerging vanilla on the nose. The palate is full and rounded, very sweet, with more milk chocolate and very gentle spice. The finish is lengthy, with milky coffee, sweet spices, and subtle oak.

This is a refill (or in 'Farclas terms, ‘plain’) hogshead, so there is less wood on show and more distillery. The nose is like a gentleman’s club at lunchtime: roasting meat, some pipe tobacco, polished wood, and the scent of a freshly-dug garden wafting through the windows. The palate shows slightly more fresh fruitiness (in line with the 1971 cask). There’s decent grip; think treacle this time. Fluxes and changes, which makes it all the more intriguing. £246

A refill hogshead this time, which when combined with its (relative) youth throws the distillery character into even greater focus. Positively light to start with, a green edge to the dry grass seen in the 1970s and more of the fruity notes hinted at in the 1982. All the time, though, it is anchored by meaty earthiness and that distinctive burnt note. The finish is a little short, but all in all a very appetizing example. £250 

This comes from a refill butt and has a light, paler color. The lack of huge oak interaction has given an amazing freshness; think of freshly-applied plaster, syrup, hot green bracken, a touch of nuttiness. It takes water well, allowing pure, soft fruits to come through, and it is these which become almost syrup-like in the mouth, while never losing Glenfarclas’ central depth and roasty richness in the center. £865

Surprisingly pale (you see the issue, Macallan?), but long aging in refill casks helps eliminate the bluntness of oak and can produce aromas that have been reduced and then taken into an exotic realm; here manifested as quince paste and kumquat followed by crystallized and candied fruits. The palate is subtle and soft with light heat, toasted chocolate, white currant, and then overwhelming cherry blossom. Exotic is the word. Bottled for China, but may be given a wider release. £3,000

One of a trio of new whiskies that have spent time in Glenfiddich’s new solera vats, this will surprise many because of its overt smokiness that’s like a bonfire in a pear orchard. Some ferny greenness adds to the freshness. The reverse happens on the palate, with the smoke being held in check by the soft mouthfeel (which could be solera-enhanced), ripe fruits, and gentle creaminess. (Travel Retail; Asia only, currently.)£70

One of two initial releases in Glenfiddich’s Experimental Series, this is a non-chill filtered expression. A vatting of twenty casks, including first-fill bourbon, sherry butts, and port pipes. The nose is fragrant and faintly oriental, with vanilla, Jaffa oranges, and apricots. The palate is full and sweet, with oranges and lemons, fudge, plump sultanas, milk chocolate, and tangy spices. Drying steadily to fruity oakiness in the relatively lengthy finish. £50

One of two new Glen Garioch vintages to be produced under the auspices of Morrison Bowmore Distillers’ master blender Rachel Barrie, this 1995 offering is due to appear in the U.S. next year. 1,000 cases are available and maturation has taken place in first-fill bourbon casks. Spice, vanilla, pears, honey, and very discreet smoke on the nose. Hazelnuts, baked bananas, apple strudel, and lots of spice on the sweet creamy palate, backed up by a gentle note of lingering char. £55

Wemyss Malts has bottled this 23 year old hogshead-matured example of Glen Garioch from the Aberdeenshire village of Oldmeldrum. Just 322 bottles were yielded by the cask. Cigarette tobacco, brittle toffee, and a hint of aniseed on the nose. Vanilla develops, along with strawberries, apples, and pears. Rich malt, walnuts, cooked apple, and cinnamon on the palate. The spicy finish features old leather and pepper. £105 

The first of four ‘chapters’ under the Renaissance banner, all of which will consist of spirit made since Glen Garioch reopened in 1997. This 15 year old release has been matured in sherry and bourbon casks, and 12,000 bottles are available. Ginger features on the early, perfumed nose, with soft toffee, oranges, and dates. Milk chocolate on the creamy palate, where the ginger theme continues, along with cinnamon and caramel. The finish offers rich chocolate and orange, which finally fades. £75

This malt is actually 36 years old, having spent its first 34 years in a refill hogshead before two years of maturation in a first fill ex-Sauternes cask. The out-turn was 280 bottles. Mellow on the nose, with fresh oranges and apples, developing toffee, and violets. Smooth and fruity on the palate, with dark chocolate, pepper, and discreet tannins. Long in the finish, with fruity oak. £400

While younger Glengoyne whiskies are enjoyable but often fairly straight-forward in flavor, the older expressions develop nicely in depth. Regardless of age, there’s always a creamy maltiness as the foundation of the whisky. For this expression, notes of honey, cookie dough, dry spice notes (vanilla, cinnamon) and soft fruit (citrus, apple) round out the palate. This whisky is clean, polished, and very drinkable. A new addition to the Glengoyne line, and very welcome. 

Deep gold color. A very delightful aroma that defies its age, with notes of rich creamy vanilla, exotic tropical fruit, honey, and toasted oak. Rich, mouth coating texture and body. Its flavor starts out like its aroma-creamy vanilla, tropical fruit, honey-then turns dry and becomes very dry, leathery, and oaky on the finish. Soothing, long dry finish. 

I enjoy Glenlivet whisky for its subtle elegance, floral notes, along with a delicious "peaches & cream" flavor. For this particular whisky, finishing some of the whisky in new French oak barrels adds depth, dried spice (vanilla, clove) and pleasing dryness to the Glenlivet profile. This whisky is more polished and refined than the 12 year old expression it replaces. 

Style: Highland single malt scotch Color: Gold Aroma: Subtly complex and somewhat dry, with notes of vanilla, almonds, hay, freshly cut grass, and a hint of smoke. Palate: Clean and malty up front, becoming dry as it begins to reveal its age, as the maltiness turns into a potpourri of spice and dried fruit. Dry on the finish and spicy-almost peppery. Its finish is big and long for a Glenmorangie whisky. 

Finished in port casks. Like the Nectar D’or above, this expression adds lushness, body, and a sweet complexity (but with darker fruit and spice than the Nectar D’or) while still allowing Glenmorangie’s complexity to shine through. 

This NAS Glenmorangie contains whisky aged in bourbon casks and some that was ‘extra-matured’ in Spanish oloroso sherry casks, as per Glenmoragie Lasanta. The result is a variant with more of a winter fireside vibe than found in Original. The nose boasts dates, plain chocolate, caramel, and Jaffa oranges. Rich and fruity in the mouth, with more oranges, plus sultanas, roasted chestnuts, cinnamon, and ginger. The finish is medium in length, fruity, gingery, and ultimately slightly bitter. £40

Amber gold color. Rich, honeyed malt in aroma. Quite floral, with subtle notes of dried fruit. Full, rich body. Very malty flavors, with notes of honeyed fruit up front, turning dry on the finish with notes of oak, vanilla, and dried fruit. 

Very bright and lively, with a nice balance of flavors. Zesty fruit (lemon, peach, ripe pineapple, golden raisin) on a bed of layered sweetness (creamy vanilla, light honey, lightly toasted marshmallow, and a hint of coconut). Gently dry, delicately spicy, dried citrus finish. Light enough and with enough zing to enjoy before dinner, but it should stand up well enough after dinner, too. This is a nice whisky, but it shows a lighter, more elegant side of Glenrothes. It doesn’t express the rich, opulent notes often shown in bottlings like the 1972 Vintage, for example.

Though this has been on the shelves in the UK for a while, its U.S. release has been delayed. It shows a classic mature ‘Rothes nose, mixing moist fruitcake, vanilla, and a tickle of maltiness. What sets this apart is the weight of the stewed fruit and a dry note reminiscent of light rain on tweed. The palate is typically slow with a sparky spiciness and a lick of hazelnut butter to caress your throat. Worth the wait. 

A new NAS, this has a thick, silky nose in classic ‘Rothes style which reminds you of coffee cream icing, hazelnut syrup, semi-dried soft fruits, and horchata. The palate has elegance and poise, with a hint of menthol lifting off into pecan and light grippy oak. Has excellent length and mellow flow. Water slightly reduces its voluptuous charms, so be careful (or simply avoid). Praise for revealing all the vintages used, and the fantastic price. Chapeau! £39

A comparatively rare independent bottling of what is, in any case, a hard to find single malt. Distilled in 1990, matured in an American oak hogshead (#646), and bottled at cask strength. White pepper, damp earth, violets, cinnamon, and slight saltiness on the nose. The pepper blackens on the idiosyncratic palate, with cough syrup, big spice notes, and dark berries. Long and peppery in the finish, with developing oak tannins.

The only sherry cask-aged Rarest of the Rare whisky reviewed here. Rich thick cut marmalade, combined with chewy toffee, sultana, and nuts. The oak adds spice, balance, and complexity. This isn’t a one-trick (sherry) pony. There’s a lot going on here. Spicy, resinous finish. One of the best Glenugies I have tasted. 

The darkest and most decadent of the three 15 year olds here. Notes of molasses, demerara rum, apricot, and dates. More subtle notes of mixed nuts, sap, tobacco, and fig, with just a hint of Moroccan spice and leather. Surprisingly complex for a whisky this young, and the most intriguing of the younger expressions reviewed here. (Bottled for Beltramo’s Fine Wines & Spirits) 

Deep gold color. Nicely balanced aroma of honeyed malt, fruit, floral notes, and a hint of the sea. Medium in body and smooth. The palate begins with soothing honey notes, followed by a rich maltiness. Ripe fruit flavors emerge, lush and delicious. The whisky eventually becomes dry and floral, with a suggestion of salt. 

Following on from Thor, Loki is the second release in Highland Park’s Valhalla Collection. Loki has been matured in a mix of sherry and heavily-peated casks. Initial notes of marzipan on the nose, then orange, oriental spices, and chili. In time, yellow plums, vanilla, and floral notes. Soft and sweet on the palate, with pink grapefruit, overt smoke, and a touch of salt. The finish features contrasting barbecue and vanilla notes, citrus, and lots of spice.

ICE Edition is a 17 year old matured predominantly in bourbon casks. Just 30,000 rather extravagantly presented bottles are available globally.  Fresh and fruity on the nose with light trademark Highland Park sweet smoke, ginger, and a hint of dry earth. In time the fruits become more clearly defined as pears and peaches. Full and viscous on the palate; vanilla, pepper, brief orchard fruits, then dry peat, licorice, aniseed, and a lingering, relatively dry finish.

Valkyrie replaces the current Dark Origins expression and was matured in a combination of first-fill American oak sherry casks, American oak bourbon casks, and European oak sherry casks, along with some refill casks. Apricots and aromatic wood smoke on the nose; slightly oily, with raisins. Stewed fruits on the palate, with earthy peat, licorice, and black pepper. Aniseed, dark berry notes, and wood spice in the finish.

Named for Highland Park Distillery’s founder, Magnus Eunson. It has been matured in first-fill and refill American oak sherry casks. The nose offers honeysuckle, vanilla, rising bread dough, and faint, aromatic wood smoke. Slightly smoky orchard fruits on the early palate, with sultanas, ripe cherries, and cinnamon. Medium to long in the finish, with drying fruit notes, wood spice, and ultimately, licorice sticks. (U.S. exclusive)

Full Volume is a U.S.-exclusive bottling that was distilled in 1999 and matured entirely in first-fill bourbon casks. The nose is fragrant, with canned pears and vanilla ice cream, coconut, and a very subtle wisp of smoke. Quite thin on the palate, nutty, mildly herbal, with tropical fruits. Ashy peat smoke, cocoa powder, and wood spice in the medium-length finish.

Amber copper color. Very mature aroma of oak, damp earth, peat smoke, licorice, soft citrus, and seaweed. Full-bodied and somewhat oily. A gently sweet vanilla note up front-albeit very briefly-then a quick flash of citrus fruit and seaweed. After that it's a battle between peat smoke and oak, with the oak ultimately winning. Very long, dry, smoky finish.

Matured in a sherry cask. Chock full of ripe fruit, but still quite feminine in personality. Firm malt foundation, almost buttery in texture, with juicy oak, maple syrup, raspberry (red and black), strawberry, and dates, peppered with gentle spice (cinnamon, ginger). While this is a very enjoyable whisky, I have tasted some excellent Linkwood bottlings, including the standard 12 year old from back in the early 1990s, that brandished less sherry, allowing more of Linkwood’s gentle nature to blossom. Still, the sherry influence here is pristine, and it gives as much as it masks. (430 bottles)£200

The combination of Linkwood and sherry cask can be to the detriment of such a perfumed whisky. Not here. The nose speaks of caramel toffee, demerara sugar, and while an oaky touch is there it’s light, allowing plump sultanas, rose, and a delightful balsamic cider vinegar note to emerge. The palate is relaxed and gentle, with darker fruits. There’s sufficient body to cope with the tannic squeeze. It needs water to reach ideal balance. Lovely. £65

The latest incarnation of Springbank’s Longrow Red matured for 11 years in port casks before being bottled at cask strength. The nose is sweet, with cherries, caramel, new leather, chewing tobacco, and soft peat. Voluptuous in the mouth, with a palate of rich peat, summer berries, and toffee apples, with growing spice notes, and light oak. Lengthy in the finish, with cinnamon, peat, sweet oak, and red berries.

Longmorn always has this fruitcake thing going on and this is no exception. A sherry hoggie  helped provide sultana, cake mix, grilled almond, rhubarb puree, and a little cigar box. The palate is very fruity, with light Darjeeling-like tannins, then red fruits. It becomes nuttier as it moves and needs water to add ripeness to the stone fruit base. Highly recommended and extremely well priced. £80

Amber mahogany color. Its 50 years of age are evident in the nose-there's plenty of resinous wood spice notes (especially clove). Also on the nose is citrus (especially orange), a potpourri of dried fruit, light toffee, and a hint of smoked nuts. The body is thick and viscous. The palate expresses flavors similar to its aroma, finishing dry and long.

A vatting of sherry casks from (apparently) royally significant dates with an outturn of 2012 (get it?) bottles. Auburn in color, it has a fruit compote nose mixed with citrus, and a little hint of gravy browning in the background. This mix of the exotic—oil of clove on the tongue, the sweet and light grip—makes for a very intriguing, concentrated, and layered palate. Think of Turkish Delight and crystallized ginger. Try the distillery shop for stock. £350

People tend to moan about Macallan having lost its mojo. Not here. This is a vatting of different sized American and (mostly) European oak casks, so no surprise that it’s oak-led, but Macallan is a heavy distillate and it needs oak to prosper fully. Here you get rosin, marmalade, green fig jam, and the power of concentrated oils. The palate is powerful and supple, with some clove, ginger, and yet more chocolate. Substantial and well worth checking out.

Along with Auchroisk, Mannochmore is one of Diageo’s well-kept secrets. This 1990 distillate was matured in first-fill American oak hogsheads and European oak butts. Oily orange notes on the nose, plus vanilla, brittle toffee, and honey. The palate is substantial, rich, and sweet, with figs, sultanas, banana, and more honey, plus developing cloves. Raisins and plain chocolate in the long, spicy finish. Diageo Special Releases 2016 bottling. (3,954 bottles)

Straw gold color. Very mature aromas of oak and citrus, with a hint of smoke, dry vanilla, floral and spice notes. Flavors are very mature and fairly dry throughout, mirroring the aroma’s dominant oaky vanilla notes, with citrus, and subtle smoke. Long, lingering finish. 

Pleasingly sweet and fruity, with notes of caramel apples, berries in honey, vanilla, and ripe pear. Fresh brine and subtle mint emerge occasionally and linger on the finish. Nicely balanced, more complex with a wider range of flavors than the Old Pulteney 21 year old. 

Scotland’s northernmost mainland distillery, located in the historic port of Wick, is owned by Inver House. The ‘entry level’ 12 year old expression is widely available. The nose presents pleasingly fresh malt and floral notes, with a touch of pine. The palate offers a fuller bodied, sweeter whisky than the nose might lead one to expect, with more malt, spices, fresh fruit, and a suggestion of salt. The finish is medium in length, drying, and decidedly nutty.

Gordon & MacPhail bottled a 21 year old expression from Scotland’s northernmost mainland distillery for the U.S. market earlier this year. Sweet on the nose, with honey and vanilla; fleetingly, stewed apricots and peaches, plus a hint of caramel. Intensely focused, sweet tropical fruits on the palate, with barley sugar. Becoming nuttier, with an edge of mixed spices. Spice fading to milk chocolate in the medium-length finish, with just a suggestion of brine. 

Maturation of the Pentland Skerries bottling of the Lighthouse Collection has taken place exclusively in former Spanish sherry casks, which lends the nose rich, dark sherry and Christmas cake notes, caramel and old leather, along with the distillery’s characteristic saltiness, which here comes across as salted peanuts. Full-bodied and slick in the mouth, overt sherry, sultanas, figs, spice, and contrasting brine. Mild maritime notes and autumn fruits combine with prunes and sherry in an accomplished, after-dinner finish. £55/liter

Here’s a classical Port Ellen, where the intense, even monomaniacal delivery of smoke mixes with damp face flannel, purple smoke, green ferns, and rapeseed oil. Lots of minerality, to the point of being almost flintily uncompromising. Water makes it more naked. The palate is excellent, with an explosion of preserved lemon-accented smokiness, touches of Spanish paprika, a sweet syrupy center, before a massive licorice finish. Peatiness for the purist, but whenever was that different? (2,958 bottles).

Delicately floral (lavender, rose) and perfumed, with notes of chamomile, hay, soft vanilla and gentle malt. Creamy and soothing, with a gently dry finish. Lots of depth for a lighter weight whisky. A lovely aperitif. I feel Rosebank is freshest and best when it is young. With the distillery closing in 1993, now’s the time to act, and this is one of the better bottlings I’ve tasted. 

More restrained on the nose than the 12 and 16 year old variants, with green apples, melons, and damp grass. The palate is silky and refined, with fresh fruits, just a hint of sherry, light spice, and a wisp of smoke. Aniseed and drying old oak in the earthy, lengthy finish.

Glansa is described as a “peated whisky cask finish,” with the majority of its unspecified maturation time being spent in first-fill American oak casks. Madeira notes on the nose, with vanilla, honey, and pears. Richly fruity on the palate, with cocoa powder, vanilla, caramel, and mild wood smoke. Dark berries emerge from the background. The dark fruits continue through the lengthy finish, where smokiness increases.

Antique gold color. Mature aromas of creamy vanilla, thick coconut, oak, and a hint of mint. The classic Springbank sea breeze aroma struggles for recognition. Medium body and oily in texture. Flavors deliver what the aroma promises, with additional dry wood spices and a very long finish. 

Citrus, exotic wood, and botanicals on the nose and palate. Indeed, there’s a bit of intrigue here. Nice balance, with roasted nuts, pecan pie, and more exotic wood on the finish. 

This expression from the Campbeltown distillery of Springbank was distilled in April 2000, matured for six years in refill bourbon barrels, and then for another six years in Calvados casks. The outturn was 9,420 bottles. Toffee apples dipped in soft spices on the nose, with a follow through of vanilla. Quite viscous on the palate, with white wine, red peppers, and cinnamon, along with a tang of peat. Lime marmalade and a touch more peat in the relatively dry finish.  

This is the second ‘Green’ release from Springbank, denoting the use of organic barley, following on from a 12 year old in 2014. This variant has been fully matured in sherry casks and 9,000 bottles are available. White pepper, ozone, and wet sand on the early nose. Ultimately, cocoa powder, baked apple, and sultanas. The palate is initially very sweet and spicy, with salt and fruity sherry developing. The finish is medium to long, warming, with a salty tang.

As part of a rebranding of the entire Talisker range, Diageo has brought its Special Releases 25 and 30 year old cask strength expressions into the full-time fold, reduced in strength to 45.8%. Sweet and buttery on the nose; soft fruits and fragrant malt, milk chocolate, and dry, crumbling peat. Citrus fruits (notably lemon), licorice sticks, black pepper, and scorched wood on the palate. Dry and oaky in the lengthy finish, with peat notes and allspice to the end. £300 

This no age statement Talisker is one of the first “triple matured” (so-named) whiskies exclusive to Friends of The Classic Malts. Successive periods of aging occurred in refill casks, charred American oak hogsheads, and European oak refill casks. Ozone, fresh asphalt, dried fruits, and old leather on the nose. A big pepper hit in the mouth, backed by earthy peat, Elastoplast, vanilla, and citrus fruits. The pepper lasts right to the end in the long, steadily-drying, charcoal-fueled finish. £80

A showcase of the wide range of Talisker’s characteristics. Very sweet fruits, vanilla, new leather, and a hint of brine on the nose. Smooth on the palate, with smoky dark berries, lively spices, and crème brûlée. Dark chocolate and slightly bitter tannins feature in the finish, along with ginger and very mild chili. (Travel Retail exclusive)

Deep amber/chestnut/crimson color, suggesting a good dose of sherry cask aging, which the palate confirms. Syrupy notes of fruitcake, burnt fig, raisin, and beeswax are balanced by resinous oak, polished leather, roasted nuts, and dried spice on the finish. The 37 years of oak impact is balanced nicely by the sherry, even if both are a bit extreme for what is normally a more elegant dram. 

Straw gold. Aromas of a sweet shop-vanilla, honey, marshmallow, and confectioner’s sugar. Light to medium body, and soft. Clean flavors, which are very malty and honeyed, with notes of marshmallow and vanilla. Gently sweet finish. 

Fuller in body, deeper and more complex than the 12 year old (as would be expected). Sweeter fruits (honey-laced citrus, lemon gum drops, and ripe peach) and rum notes marry nicely with dried spice (cinnamon, vanilla, ginger). Calming finish. An intelligent use of sherry cask aging. 

Bold and spicy, but with enough backbone to handle it. Surely the most intense of the bunch overall. (The 25 year old is dry on the palate -- especially on the finish -- but the 30 year old challenges you the throughout.) There’s plenty of oak here, imparting leather, resin, and dried spice notes (cinnamon, clove, vanilla), but it is rescued by sherried fruit, honeyed citrus, and toffee. A powerful dram.

This veteran example of Tomatin was distilled in November 1967 and matured for 45 years in refill butt #9315. The outturn was
175 bottles. Uncompromising dark sherry and treacle notes on the fruity nose, along with gunpowder tea. Big, old sherry notes on the full palate, with raisins, sultanas, and a sprinkling of black pepper. Fruity, notably spicy, and not too drying for its age in a relatively supple finish. £230

This vintage expression from Tomatin has been matured in a mix of bourbon and port casks, and is being released in batches. The first comprises 2,500 bottles. The soft, fragrant nose offers strawberries, apricots, honey, and caramel, with a final hint of dry port. Fruit and caramel notes carry over from the nose onto the palate before dark chocolate appears, along with a suggestion of smoke. Subtle oak and ginger in the lengthy finish.

Tomatin launched the peated Cù Bòcan expression last year, and follows it with a vintage variant, the result of “…a rare and unintentional production of peated whisky at the distillery on 7th June 1989.” Three bourbon casks yielded 1,080 bottles. Ripe apples and aerosol furniture polish, with a vanilla and sweet woodsmoke backdrop on the nose. Full-bodied, with intense, sweet fruit notes on the palate, and a heathery, smoky kick. Smoky spice and nutty flavors in the ultimately drying finish. £200

Antique gold. Thought-provoking aromas and flavors of molasses, leather, vanilla, and wood spices, with a hint of bourbon and rum. Light to medium in body. Given that this whisky is so mature and rather light in body, it has held up very well-the woody dryness is balanced nicely by the sweetness of the grain. 

Deep on the nose and palate, with notes of dark rum, dried fruit, roasted nuts, dark chocolate, cinnamon, polished leather, charcoal, and a suggestion of peat.  Dry, resinous finish.  Bonus points for intrigue.

The aromas can be split into four; fresh fruits (raspberry, blueberry), desserts (vanilla custard, bread and butter pudding), antique shop (polished furniture, well-oiled moving parts), and stewed fruits (apple, rhubarb, some old orange peel). Wisps of balsa wood smoke; tangy orange notes build, accompanied by those fresh fruits, sweet oak, aniseed, and white pepper ending on black treacle and gingerbread. The finish is epically long; dry, floral, with parkin, residual wood notes, and further smoke evident. (800 bottles)

A marriage of two whiskies: 30% 18 year old Caol Ila finished in Chateau d’Yquem Sauternes casks and 70% 10 year old Bowmore finished in Grenache wine casks. A honeyed, sultana sweetness (from the d’Yquem?) nicely tames the rooty smoke, iodine, seaweed, brine, pepper, and subtle Spanish olive. Bramble and berried fruit (from the Grenache?) add another layer and dimension. A very dynamic whisky, worthy of exploring and debating how well all these flavors integrate with each other.

Peat smoke indeed, and it dovetails nicely with light toffee, vanilla, anise, charred oak, blackberry, seaweed, kalamata olive, brine, and peppercorn. Well balanced from start to lingering smoke finish, and very exciting. (Exclusive to the U.S.)

Glenrothes always has a spicy element, but this example ups the ante considerably and, true to the label, it’s fresh-cut ginger root alongside galangal and coriander, a hint of green grass, and even a little bite of jelly babies, alongside black currant leaf. Rothes’ normally languid air is here frothily exuberant, with just sufficient vanilla thickness to offer a brake. Uplifting and good. £107

Sweet oak and cod liver oil are what greet you, with fleshy, lychee-like fruits
behind. The smoke here is very polite, giving way to fruit jelly cubes and
peaches, to develop alongside crisp apple. The palate is clean with nutty oak, with
the smoke continuing in the background, offering an extra layer of complexity.
Fresh, belying its age, while it has typical tongue-coating oiliness it remains
understated. Caol Ila basking in the summer sun. (U.S. only)

The nose is sweet (think barley sugar/boiled sweets) with little bits of wheat chaff flying around in the background with dried flower petals and drying cut grass. Opens dramatically with water into almond milk/horchata and flowers. The palate is sweet and lifted with those gentle florals to the fore. Instead of Tormore’s normal nagging rigidity, this flows sweetly over the tongue, leaving fruit leather, stewed rhubarb, and with water, rosewater and fresh wild strawberry. A lovely Tormore! £118

This is Mortlach in musing mode. An aroma that initially brings to mind a woolen mill, then opens into sweet spice, light syrup, with the sense of the distillery’s weight always present. A rippling kind of muscularity with some rapeseed oil. With water the palate starts lighter and more fruity than you’d expect, then comes rooty weight with, yes, a distinctly gingery slant. Water shows more beeswax/honeycomb. Substantial and spicy. £85

Released in Wemyss Malts’ Cask Strength Single Cask Releases range. This expression of Clynelish was aged in a refill hogshead. Initially, big coffee and ginger notes on the nose. Sweet orchard fruits develop in time along with a pinch of table salt. Very sweet and spicy on the palate with icing sugar and soft toffee. Salt, white pepper, and light oak in a long, spicy finish. (274 bottles) £100

Distilled in 1986, this single cask from Blair Athol distillery in Perthshire yielded 268 bottles, and the nose offers sweet fruits, principally apple and orange, plus walnuts, vanilla, and brittle toffee. Becoming softer and creamier with time. Dark fruit notes on the palate, notably blackcurrants and cranberries, with caramel and cinnamon. The finish is quite viscous, with a little oak, freshly-squeezed lemons, and licorice twists. £85 

A rather moreish grain, and Wemyss certainly nailed the chocolate orange aromas on the nose here. Bright bursts of rich orange and comforting milk chocolate accompany gentle underlying spices, star anise, treacle-drizzled hams, and Godiva mint pearls. The palate is easygoing, with chocolate muffins, condensed milk, dates, and milky Coco Pops. There is oak, but it’s never obtrusive, and of course, cold mocha that fades slowly, until the moment has passed. (240 bottles) £102

Kyloe is the old Scots name for the famous hairy, horned breed of Highland beef cattle, better known in Scotland as a Heilan coo. This bright NAS whisky has aromas of fresh orange, lemon, grapefruit, and light muscovado sugar. It is soft and sweet to drink, with lemon sherbet notes, some fruity piquancy, and rich butterscotch, with some peppermint creeping in on the finish.

Lombard’s blend of Speyside malts pleases with an agreeable nose of orchard blossoms, flower honey, caramel, dry hay, and pears baked in brown granulated sugar. It’s homey and comforting, favoring its floral and fruity side. This is a light, sweet whisky that sweeps around the mouth, radiating maltiness, apple, grapefruit, dried mango strips, and mingling spices. A studiously long finish of sucked caramel candy and beeswax follows. A smart choice for the beginning of the evening. £30

Originally created by Lombard for the Freemasons, this has a flavorsome nose of dark chocolate chip cookies, light spices, coconut macaroons, malt, and bright, fresh bananas. The palate is light and unobtrusive, with honey and malt reinforced by the spices running underneath. A shift develops to some later cocoa and chocolate notes, and the mocha finish fades gracefully. A finely balanced concoction, and you will rarely find this quality and flavor for the price

Aged in both refill and new bourbon casks. The new bourbon casks are evident, and I think it adds richness, vibrancy, and perceived maturity (which I like) when compared to the previous Summer 2010 release. Very pale in color. Brooding, with licorice root, coal tar, bacon fat, damp peat, bright fruit (citrus and pear), and intriguing botanicals, all on a soothing bed of vanilla malt. Smoky, briny finish. I’m still amazed how this very young whisky can taste so mature. Well done! 

The only Islay distillery not on the coast — and the most westerly on the island — Kilchoman is reviving the tradition of farm distilling, and this limited edition release uses locally grown Optic barley malted at the distillery. Very creamy, with some stewed apple, green banana, and (when diluted) sponge cake mix. The smoke develops on the palate, adding an earthy note. Rich, with some clove and licorice on the finish. Well worth a look. 

Here you have the sweetness of rising bread alongside scallop and wreathes of smoke, all lit by west coast sunshine; the peat isn’t dank, but bright and flaming. The palate is sweetly seductive before the smoke begins to come through, then it sweetens like golden syrup, then the shore comes back, and so it continues. Water ups the impact of each, so be careful, as it can then seem disconnected. Sweet, beachy, smoky. Very Islay.

This strikes me as being the most overtly smoky of Kilchoman’s recent bottlings, and also the sweetest. Intense and very forward, there’s baked apple, humidor notes, honeydew melon, fresh shellfish. Water brings out a putty-like youthfulness, so take it neat. The palate is amazingly sweet (think golden syrup), then the smoke folds itself over. A good—and well-priced—introduction for newcomers.(World of Whiskies UK Travel Retail only) £45

So nice to see this whisky available here in the U.S. again. A more mature, more sherried expression of the standard Royal Lochnagar. Rich, silky, and sweet, with molasses, nutty toffee, old demerara pot still rum, caramelized fig, marmalade, and juicy oak. More subtle notes of honeyed ginger, coffee grounds, and tobacco leaf add complexity. A soothing post-prandial dram.

Each independent bottler has its own signature style. Adelphi’s is about relaxed, contemplative drams with rich maturity and a certain seriousness. Here you see this, plus crème brûlée, sitting in front of a sandalwood backdrop with a bunch of basil mint thrown in. The opening is slow, and while the inherent sweet nature of the distillery is there, hazelnuttish oak helps to add structure and stops any flabbiness from intruding. A luscious dram. £99

This offers an enticing nose of honey, malt, and barley sugar—sweet and floral. Peaches in cream on the palate, a suggestion of madeira, milk chocolate, and Brazil nuts. Cocoa, citrus fruits, and light oak in the medium-length finish. Value pick

This is the latest in an ongoing series of releases of whisky distilled at the Campbeltown distillery of Glengyle, and now aged 8 years. Just 9,000 bottles are available. The nose is full, with over-ripe oranges, warm honey, and custard. On the palate, the oranges are fresher and livelier, with vanilla, hard toffee, and a slightly citric fruit edge to balance the sweetness. That sweetness carries over into the spicy finish, which is quite lengthy, with a lick of licorice. £35

Having released four previous “work in progress” expressions of Kilkerran, 2013 sees the launch of two editions, one matured in sherry casks and the other in bourbon barrels. The sherry-aged variant yields overripe green grapes and figs on the nose, followed by honey and plain chocolate, while the palate is quite full, softly fruity, with soft toffee and a hint of brine. The finish dries significantly, with cocoa powder, licorice, and lots of spice. £38

The latest releases from Glengoyne distillery are 10 year olds, one matured in sherry wood and one in bourbon barrels, as was the case with release 5. 9,000 bottles are available globally. Initially savory on the nose, slightly earthy, with sherry, new leather, lemonade, and a hint of ozone. Spicy and zesty, with developing stewed fruits, dark chocolate, and deep sherry notes on the palate. The finish is long and persistently spicy, mildly smoky, with quite dry sherry notes.

The 2015 Work in Progress releases are the last before the single malt becomes a permanently-available 12 year old in 2016. 6,000 bottles are available. Creamy malt, marzipan, and vanilla on the nose, with pears, instant coffee, linseed, and a hint of table salt. Soft and slightly oily on the warm, spicy palate, with immediate ripe apples, caramel, and slight smokiness. Long and slowly drying, with a touch of aniseed and brine.

Following on from the earlier 8 year old expression of this triple distilled Campbeltown malt, the 12 year old first appeared in August 2009 and nicely illustrates the developments brought about by its continuing maturation. Rich on the nose, with a clear sherry influence, along with toffee, marzipan, apricots, and milk chocolate. This is a substantial and well integrated dram, with malt, almonds, cocoa, and spice on the palate, while the long, spicy finish offers more chocolate, soft fruits, and coffee.

Distilled in June 2007 and bottled in October 2016, this expression spent 6 years in first-fill bourbon casks, then 3 years in Barolo wine casks. Fresh on the early nose; herbaceous, with pineapple and a hint of oil. Big in the mouth, with white pepper, more pineapple, dried fruits, and coconut milk. Drying to tannins, with dark berries in the lengthy, minty finish. (10,800 bottles)

There’s little quality Port Dundas being bottled, so don’t pass up the opportunity for this one. It evokes aromas of grated milk chocolate, grilled pancakes, apricot, mango, and poached pear Jell-O, with spice notes of ground cumin, cinnamon, and nutmeg. This is simply delicious: a honey pot of sticky sweetness. A rich, cask strength grain whisky with notes of mandarin and candied jellies. A dash of water enables the sweet, creamy flavors to swirl around the mouth. £64

The latest bottling of “Breath” is like a whisky smuggler’s tale. There’s the smell of old waxed walking boots, wet moss, damp earth, crushed bog foliage — heather, bog myrtle — burlap sacking, and a hastily smothered fire. The smoke is well controlled all the way, which helps to allow its scents to run over bitter coffee and a balancing central sweetness. Robust, hairy, and uncompromising, this is less of a breath and more of a roar. £65 

Startlingly herbal. Penetrating, lifted, and aromatic with dill, mint, and in time, celery leaf and lovage. Smoke is akin to freshly-laid tarmac with some sweet seaweed behind. Lively and quite different to the official bottling. Water brings unripe pineapple, clove, sugared almond, and horseradish. This has typical Kilchoman sweet creaminess in the center. Water brings out flavors of nettles, and saltiness. £69

This is a sophisticated and finessed take on Islay blended malt, which must be Kilchoman-free given the age statement. Driftwood, waxy lemons, soft buttery fudge, banana milkshake, dry grasses, and the gentlest puff of smoke promise calm seas ahead. A silken dram, anointing the palate with lemon meringue pie, honey, and caramel. This becomes creamier, with faint tendrils of smoke and dancing spices through to the finish. Utterly charming and tremendous value for the money. (419 bottles) £82

If you like warm chocolate ganache sprinkled with cocoa beans, dark waffle cones, praline, and brisket bark, then this is for you. A brief flicker of chocolate, smoke, cherry, peppery spices, and chili flakes move aside for a smooth medley of dark fruit juiciness and sweetened char notes. The strident call of chocolate on nosing goes unreciprocated on the palate. A long, satisfying, deep finish of pounding spices. A worthy successor to the first batch. (417 bottles) £123

Rich notes of baking chocolate, compacted dry earth, runny caramel, and garam masala highlight the versatility of aromas between these expressions. Chocolate digestive biscuits, plain chocolate nibs, caramel, a hit of mouth-puckering pepper and chili heat, but the chocolate endures. A zinging finish akin to Tache spiced bark.

Hankey Bannister includes some stunning aged whiskies in its range, but given the trend toward unaged scotch releases, I was a bit suspicious of this. It lacks depth but nevertheless is a butterfly in a breeze of a whisky; gossamer light, both tantalizing and elusive. It’s liquid honey, with sweet lime and pear, some cocoa, and to give it a modicum of depth, it’s underpinned
by a light saltiness.

Full gold. Big, robust, and sweetly fragrant, with honeysuckle, stewing elderflower. There’s some oak, but it’s not dominant. The palate starts creamy, then there’s some caramel toffee with good distillery character. It melds freshness with the extra weight gained by gentle maturation. There’s coconut and cassia on the end. You lose the sweetness with water, but you get more blossom and oak. Personally I’d go for it neat and sip slowly as a perfect summer dram. £130

Soft and direct. The initial impression is of birthday cake icing with marzipan beneath, then comes preserved lemon, greengage, and discreet maltiness. It becomes more scented (linden/privet blossom) in time. The palate is a little strong initially, then a hint of coconut. Improves further with water, showing a fascinating, subtle evolution: herbal with iris flowers. A classy dram from an overlooked distillery. Check it out. £53

This Glenturret was bottled in Douglas Laing’s Old Particular series at 28 years old. After maturation in a single refill hogshead it was released in early 2016. Malt, milk chocolate, and honey on the pleasing, mature, rounded nose. Figs and sultanas develop in time. Smooth and rich on the palate with more malt, cocoa powder, and soft spices. Very long in the finish with quite insistent spice, citrus fruit, cloves, and sweet oak. (168 bottles) £105

The final cornerstone of Douglas Laing’s Remarkable Regional Malts range, this blended malt celebrates the best from the Islands. The peat smoke finds harmony with the nose of pine, lemon curd, dewy lawns, and vanilla fudge. This is gloriously full-flavored; the peatiness certainly delivers, but there is a pleasant nip of saltiness too. The black pepper finish leads to a long lasting salty smack on the lips. Make this your hipflask essential for bracing excursions along the shoreline. £38

Rich marmalade, gingersnaps, dried tropical fruits, vanilla pods, and cinnamon bark abound on this limited edition, top dog whisky from Douglas Laing & Co, which includes Mortlach, Macallan, and Glenrothes. The satsuma peel acidity settles quickly to show off its tricks of green apple, spices, hazelnut, Maltesers, and ginger. Late development brings out plain chocolate squares, maltiness, and intense coffee notes. Water picks out chocolate orange truffles. Coffee cups and chocolate biscuits to finish. My tail is wagging for more. (4,800 bottles) £50

From an undisclosed North Highland distillery, aged in a refill sherry hogshead. The impact of the sherry is clear, with ripe blackberry and peach. A floral, sweet, clover honey note rounds out a deliciously lush mouthfeel. This lushness is well balanced by a spicy mid-palate that features black pepper, ginger, and strong salinity that help provide some real depth. A long and slightly dry finish wraps up a solid whisky. (U.S. only)

This cask strength, port cask-aged whisky comes from an undisclosed distillery near Aberlour. The impact of the port cask is unmistakable, with a nose that is deeply fruity with dried apricot, blackberry jam, honey, and malt. On the palate these rich sweet fruit notes are well balanced by black pepper, clove, salt, honey, and a touch of dark chocolate. The underlying proof also helps counterbalance the sweet fruit and drives a medium length and slightly dry finish. (U.S. only)

BenRiach releases of this age are often peated or in a special barrel; here, we have an unpeated, non-barrel finish release. The nose is inviting, with Honeycrisp apple, toffee, malt, and a touch of oak. A very flavorful entry presents lush toffee, apple, malt, and ginger. The spice increases in the mid-palate, as well as the heat, but we don’t get much added complexity. A long, flavorful, and slightly dry finish round out a very tasty but ultimately simplistic whisky. (U.S. only)

An Islay single malt of unknown origin aged in a bourbon barrel showcases many of the classic notes of a peated malt of this age with smoke, iodine, paste, and oak. On the palate the smoky peat unfolds nicely, as it’s exquisitely balanced by honey, salt, and caramel. The smoke intensifies in the mid-palate but never loses its balance with the sweeter undertones. A dry, long, smoky finish caps off a well-integrated and very enjoyable mystery malt. (U.S. only)

Distilled in October 1995 and aged in refill hogshead #8937. Slightly earthy on the early nose, with allspice, vanilla, then creamy toffee and caramel notes emerge. Big, boiled sweet notes on the full palate: nutmeg, soft toffee, and aniseed. Long and drying in the finish, with chili spice. (261 bottles)

Distilled in March 1992, this single cask expression was matured in a refill hogshead (#1266). The nose yields heather in bloom, a hint of machine oil, vanilla, orange fondant creams, and a wisp of sweet wood smoke. Smooth on the palate, with creamy orange notes, gentle spice, and, ultimately, soft peat smoke. The finish is relatively long, with Jaffa orange, black pepper, and drying oak. (209 bottles)

The nose is muted, with gentle orchard fruits, subtle malt, nougat, and nutty toffee. The palate, by contrast, is bold and offers big fresh fruit notes, notably zesty tangerines, along with crème brûlée. Dry peat notes follow. Earthy peat smoke and white pepper with a citrus tang in the long finish. (230 bottles)

Part of Signatory’s Un-Chillfiltered Collection, this was distilled on February 25, 2005 and bottled on November 25, 2015. Initially a little earthy on the nose, then more fragrant, with orange blossom, nutmeg, and a hint of polished oak. Oily and rounded on the palate, with supple sherry influences: prunes, dates, more orange, and tingling spices, plus toffee. The finish is medium to long, with a hint of smoke and lingering spicy Jaffa orange notes.

Golden, lifted, and aromatic. The fleshy ripeness of the 13 year old is still there, but that little sulfur edge has now gone, revealing the ripe fruits massing underneath. Now you find pineapple and light chalk. The flowers have become daffodils and bluebells rather than lily, along with a soft, vanilla ice cream plumpness. Sweet and full, and just a shade lighter than the 13 year old. Muscly, but sweet; that’s the paradox of the Craigellachie character. £83

Gordon & MacPhail’s latest bottling from Macduff distillery is a year 2000 distillation, matured in refill sherry hogsheads. American cream soda and light spices on the nose, with honey, and white pepper development. Ultimately, rum and raisin fudge. Smooth and supple in the mouth, with apple peel, soft fino sherry, and nutmeg. The finish is medium in length, with spicy fruit notes. £45

This expression from Aberfeldy was distilled in April 1995 and bottled in January 2014 after maturation in refill, remade sherry hogsheads (casks #2,488, 2,489, and 2,491). The nose is floral, with ginger and developing milk chocolate. Progressively sweeter, with slight sherry and vanilla notes. The palate is silky and sweet, with banoffee pie, peaches, and spicy oak. The finish is long, with cocoa powder and more spiced oak. £60

This expression of Glen Grant has been matured in refill bourbon casks and is arguably more characterful than the distiller’s own variant of the same age. Ripe orchard fruits on the nose, with honey and cinder toffee. The palate is light to medium in weight, offering more fresh fruit notes, vanilla, milk chocolate, and a hint of ginger. The nutty finish dries with just a hint of smoke.

This expression from Scapa in Orkney was distilled in 2001 and matured in first-fill bourbon barrels. Tropical fruit and butterscotch on the sweet, light nose, with very slight smokiness on the early palate, along with spicy, milky cocoa, hazelnuts, and more tropical fruit. The finish is medium in length, with a hint of char. An easy-drinking, nicely balanced dram at a good price.

This unspecified single malt has been bottled non-chill filtered in single cask format. Maturation took place in a barrel that formerly contained Islay single malt. Initially earthy on the nose, with potato skins, salt, and white pepper. Time in the glass teases out fruity, caramel sweetness. The palate is very sweet and zesty, with orange sherbet, along with a nicely integrated maritime note which becomes more pronounced. The finish is spicy and mildly medicinal. £50

I am hopeful this blended whisky has benefited from the alligator char treatment to contribute to the deep, rich color and charred smoke notes on the nose. A thick, velvety mouthfeel, with butter toffee, toasted marshmallows going gooey on a stick, great spices, vanilla, whole nutmeg, chicory, and the crust of a well-fired fruit loaf leaving some sooty cinders on the finish. A mighty fireside companion and my favorite Grand Macnish to date.

Apples squeezed in a cider press, sherbet Dib Dabs, and cinnamon sticks comprise the nose of this west coast grain whisky. It’s lip-tingling at cask strength; the lemon and molten honey tussling with the effervescence of the Dib Dabs before golden syrup pours over the tongue. It’s like crunching through a packet of powdery Love Hearts erupting in the mouth. Water encourages peach fondant French fancies flavors, with a slightly pushy fruit skin note at the finish. £75

Lord Elcho was an 18th century ancestor of William Wemyss, who fought on Bonnie Prince Charlie’s side at the Battle of Culloden in 1745. With a minimum of 40% malt, this fine blend has a rather perfumed nose of fresh mint, green apple, sliced melon, and tropical fruits. The soft candy sugar and butterscotch palate builds, with layers of malt, cherry laces, gingerbread, and pfeffernüsse leading to a ginger and spice finish of significant length. Highly accomplished. £26

A limited edition blend with more than 75 percent malt content, containing grains from 1978 and 1979, and malts from 1982. A genteel nose exudes white chocolate, vanilla slice, butterscotch, fresh apricots, and salted pecans. Commanding and rich, it luxuriates in bitter orange, ripe apricots, marmalade, dairy toffees, cinnamon, and raspberry, with a finish of Seville orange rind. It’s a little blander with water, toward baked lemons and barley sugar, so resist and take it as it comes. £190

This was inspired by Stewart Laing’s childhood journeys by steam locomotive from Glasgow to Speyside with his father. Hunter Laing’s blended malt includes contributions from Blair Athol, Teaninich, and Clynelish and raises toffee sauce, dried banana chips, and spring foliage, with a fringe of fresh mint. You can appreciate the cool, clean taste; ripe banana and chocolate-dipped fudge blooming into late notes of mocha, ginger, and chocolate mousse. Dry finish of ginger cookies and espresso. All aboard! £40

A confectioner’s delight; Fry’s Five Centres, lime, lemon, kumquat, iced buns, fresh mint, and crushed cardamom that matches the chocolate aromas. Those re-charred, rejuvenated casks are very much in evidence here. It has a gilded, satiny sheen, glistening with lemon drizzle cake, butterscotch, orange matchsticks, and banana bread. Incontrovertibly, it inhabits a signature grain style, but it fizzles out with a sticky, sweet aftertaste, like licking the spoon from the icing bowl. £45

Appearances can be deceptive, as this pallid specimen proves. Overripe honeydew melons, lemon cheesecake sprinkled with zest, vanilla pear muffins, cooked apple, spring blossoms, and icing sugar. The sweet, sugary opener is burnt out enjoyably by blistering burnt orange, butterscotch, and lemon bonbons. While the flavor intensity builds commendably, it doesn’t escape without a touch of astringency. Water makes this sing ‘Oranges and Lemons,’ but go easy with it. The finish is like a greedy mouthful of tarte au citron. £80

Fruits are to the fore here, super ripe, and dark in hue: think of plump plums, sweet black grapes, and hedgerow berries. That said, it is never heavy, as if it’s just the aromatics of the fruits which have been preserved. In time, some dried flowers emerge. The palate is equally sweet, with a little caramel and spice. It fades gently. Impressive and well worth a look. I wonder whether the new Dalmunach distillery will produce anything like this? £213

The power of pure burning peat smoke, lemon-scented floor polish, pine needles, salt spray, and delicate vanilla places this squarely among the archetypal whiskies from Islay. Sweet lemon, custard cream biscuits, and hints of smoked goose lend an oily mouthfeel. A combustible climax of smoke, spice, and earthy peat kindle a red-hot finish that will have you puffing smoke like a chimney.

Mid-period Garnheath here, the distillery existing for barely 20 years. This brings aromas of freshly ground pepper, oils, soft fudge, and dry monkey nut shells. The fudge is smothered by spices exploding in the mouth: ginger, nutmeg, pepper, and cinnamon. Warm toffees, oak, and citrus emerge late, but boy, this dram has great stamina and length. Sure, the finish has an oakiness, slight sourness, and a gentle, spicy pepperiness, but water subtracts more than it gains. A genuine rarity. (141 bottles) £222

Smoky, yes, but the effect is more shore-like: on the beach, hot sand, wood smoke, and a faint hint of balloons…there must be a party going on. In addition you get olive oil, preserved lemon, and eucalyptus. The palate is thick with strawberry sweeties that push back against the peat. Water calms things (suggesting this would work with soda), while the finish sees the campfire emit more smoke. £45

Ladyburn malt distillery was part of William Grant’s Girvan grain distilling complex in Ayrshire from 1966 to 1975. It was located close to where Ailsa Bay now stands. This veteran bottling is mature and rounded on a nose of sweet pears, nectarines, subtle vanilla, and a hint of old hemp. Fresh fruit and lively spice on the early palate, with worn leather and malt.  The fruit lingers through the very long finish with oak, licorice, and slightly bitter citrus notes.

A terrific value blend of Macallan, Glenrothes, and Tamdhu matured in sherry casks has produced one of the darkest whiskies on the market. Inescapable aromas of thick Seville orange marmalade, polished saddle leather, too-hot-to-hold sweet chestnuts pulled from a brazier, dry fruitcake, 100% cacao, and Medjool dates. Sweet prunes, chocolate ganache, cola, tannins, and singed wood spices combine to produce a formidable proposition. Heavily sherried and oaky for sure; this has been bottled not a day too early. (337 bottles, Royal Mile Whiskies only) £200

Diurachs are the inhabitants of the Isle of Jura, and this single malt named in their honor is initially matured in bourbon casks before 2 years of finishing in amoroso sherry casks. Floral and honeyed on the nose, with caramel, pine, and spicy dark chocolate. Sweet and oily on the palate, where the chocolate changes from plain to milk, with vanilla and delicate cloves. Darkening chocolate and drying oak in the finish.

Another expression from anCnoc’s first batch of Peaty Collection releases, this has the lowest phenolic level of the trio, at 11 ppm. Initial peatiness on the nose gives way to sliced pineapple, nougat, and spicy vanilla. Ripe apple, milk chocolate, and honey emerge out of soft peatiness on the palate. Old leather and a hint of spice in the medium-length finish.

The nose is inviting, with marzipan, malt, ripe bananas, milk chocolate, and cinnamon. Green fruit notes emerge later. Very sweet on the smooth palate, with bubble gum, satsumas, peaches, and delicate spice. The finish is medium to long and persistently sweet and fruity, with a hint of dark chocolate at the end. Sure to satisfy a sweet tooth.

Peat smoke dominates the nose of salt crystals, green tea, pine cones, peppermint creams, and charcoal. The tasty palate has sweet fudge, heather honey, and mandarin, which balance out the ginger and light pepper spiciness. Smoke catches in the throat as it becomes fruitier in the later stages. Finish is hot, drying, with smoke and ginger spices. Decent enough, though its appeal will skew toward peat lovers.

The new Wemyss Family Collection includes two blended malts; this is the better of the pair. Raisin, date, fruitcake, stewed apple and plum, cumin, coriander, allspice, and new leather leave little mystery about the role played by the sherry hogshead. Gingerbread, plum, and dark orange draw the mouth. Fruity sweetness, but never sugary; there are jam tarts, walnut, and minimal interference from the spices until the dry finish. (6,300 bottles) £47

Lovely balance on the nose and palate. Soft and gently textured, too. The sweetness of the whisky (honey, fruit gum drops, and malty vanilla), dovetail nicely with light, bright citrus and teasing dried spices. Heather/floral notes enhance the whisky’s complexity. Clean, delicately polished oak finish. A very versatile, inexpensive, easy-drinking whisky. 

This second release celebrates Walker’s rare fruit character using 29 handpicked casks combining regional styles, aligned to the 2010 Director’s Blend. Aromas of pear and fresh apple layered over tangy, sugar-tossed dried fruits, pineapple, deep orange oils, and dry peel. Taciturn smoke. Creamy butteriness with red apple, raspberry, and sweet orange yields to soft, chewy pear skins, honey-drizzled Turkish delights, and charred paper. An outlier of JW character but important to contemplate how this adds context to the entire collection. £550

Intended to recreate the spirit of James and John Chivas, this blend uses high proportions of Longmorn and Strathisla malts. The nose has green apples, peaches in syrup, blended honey, and oat flapjacks. A soft and light opener of orange sherbet, melon, and dried apple. Dilution yields a delicious creamy texture with more assertive citrus flavors and bitter peel showing by the end. A distinctive character from the regular 12 year old, but this should be regarded as an equal. £40

The assured Scotch whisky that became one of the classic blends. Dry and sweet, with a nose of vanilla sponge, fresh cut flowers, and marzipan over a malty base. Pleasingly oily, with flavors of burning butter, malty toffee, and cake mix, with gentle spices and hints of chocolate appearing the longer you hold off swallowing. The glossy mouthfeel makes this feel like an everyday luxury. A finish of spent spices, cocoa, hazelnut, and a waft of smoke brings it home.

A light color suggests a relaxed contact between cask and whisky, but what this lacks in terms of ‘woodiness‘ it makes up for in all-round deliciousness. Aberlour is often masked with plenty of sherry and/or bourbon oak; here the distillery character is thrust to the fore and comes out as being highly aromatic. There are candies, bubblegum, kiwi fruits, and cut flowers. The palate is vibrant with a touch of parma violet and pear juice. Altogether a little charmer.

This expression of Aberfeldy fits between the core 12 and 21 year old bottlings, but is exclusively available in Travel Retail outlets. The nose opens with a slightly savory note, rich and spicy, with sherry, Jaffa oranges, and sweet oak. The palate is smooth and rounded, with malt, nutty spice, honey, and milky coffee. The finish is lengthy, with Seville oranges, plain chocolate, dark sherry notes, and licorice. (Travel Retail only) Price is per liter.

Fresh and clean, with notes of vanilla, ripe barley, honey, caramel apple, and toasted coconut. Creamy and mouth-coating in texture, leading to a pleasingly dry, spicy oak finish. Very drinkable, yet satisfying. Quite nice. 

Stylish, sophisticated. Fresh, honeyed floral, green grapes, kiwi, plum, and currant jelly. Hint of cinnamon and nutmeg. Soft, gently sweet finish. Pleasing sweetness to go with the fruit.

This expression from the Isle of Arran distillery appeared in 2010 and one-third of the component whiskies were matured in European oak casks while two-thirds came from American oak. Very fragrant and perfumed on the nose, with peaches, brandy, and ginger snaps, plus vanilla and mild oak. Smooth and creamy on the palate, with spicy summer fruits, apricots, and hazelnuts. The lingering finish is spicy, biscuity, and slowly drying, with just a hint of salt.

This single sherry cask bottling from Arran was distilled on February 17th, 1997, being bottled on February 5th, 2014. The nose opens with a hint of malt vinegar, followed by sherry and sultanas. More floral with time. Full-bodied, with spicy sherry, figs, and raisins. Long and spicy in the finish, with fruity sherry to the end. (U.S. only)

Illicit Stills is the first in a trilogy of limited releases reflecting Arran’s distilling heritage. It includes unpeated Arran spirit, some of which has been aged in port pipes, along with amounts of medium-peated and heavily-peated whisky. Warm and rounded on the oily nose; figs and peat, before caramel and vanilla develop. Viscous in the mouth, with succulent orange and spicy peat. The finish is very long and peppery, with mouth-drying tannins. £85

It always amazes me how well this triple-distilled Lowland whisky ages. The best ones are in their twenties and thirties. This one, at 40, is still holding up quite well, all things considered. Lively, fragrant aroma for such an old whisky. Notes of vanilla, coconut cream pie, butterscotch, hay, wood shavings, sultana, dried citrus, and a potpourri of spice. Some “old oak” notes emerging from time to time throughout, with a gently spicy finish. An expensive whisky, but those who pony up the money will enjoy it. 

When compared to its younger siblings, this whisky is deeper in flavor. The citrus becomes more dominant (glazed orange, tangerine marmalade), with added notes of caramelized nuts and maple syrup. A good dash of dried spices kicks in and the whisky becomes firm and dry on the finish. My favorite of the standard range is still the 21 year old expression, which has been around for quite some time.

Auchentoshan has launched a range of travel retail-exclusive bottlings with names relating to oak, including Heartwood, which is matured in a mix of deeply-charred former bourbon and toasted oloroso sherry casks.  Soft, medium sherry notes on the nose; stem ginger, cinnamon, parma violets, and clove-studded oranges. The palate features wood polish, old leather, plain chocolate, cloves, and ginger. Dates and spicy orange marmalade on the lengthy finish. €50

This expression of Auchentoshan from Douglas Laing’s Provenance range was distilled in September 2000, matured in bourbon casks, and bottled in November 2012. Opens very sweet on the nose, with vanilla, peaches, and apricots, plus allspice. More caramel in time. Medium bodied, with sweet fruits, new-mown hay, and hard toffee on the palate, giving way to spice and aniseed. The spicy finish features cloves, and dries steadily, with a final flourish of pepper. £40

The latest single cask expression of Auchentoshan from Wemyss Malts is 14 years old and was matured in a bourbon barrel. The outturn is 342 bottles. The nose is fleetingly herbal; then offers crème de citron, turning to tinned peaches in syrup, and finally pine and peppery caramel. Silky-smooth in the mouth, spicy, with lemon and digestive biscuits. Freshly-squeezed lemon lingers in the chili and chocolaty finish. £78

Wemyss Malts has bottled several single cask Auchentoshans in the past, and this 15 year old release is of 342 bottles, provided by a bourbon barrel. Peaches, caramel, sea salt, and developing lemonade on the nose. Sweet and fruity on the palate, with more peaches and very soft background spices. The finish dries slowly, with ginger and a hint of aniseed. £75

Distilled in October 1997 and aged in a single refill hogshead, 360 bottles were released in 2014 as part of Langside’s Distiller’s Art range. The nose is mildly herbal, with green wood, heather, and developing soft toffee notes. Soft and gently spiced on the palate, with hazelnuts, and peaches in cream. The finish is relatively long, with milk chocolate, and tingling sweet spices. £62

This cask strength Northern Highlander offers a full and complex nose, comprising brandy notes, stewed apricots, spices, table salt, and white pepper. A hint of nougat turns to darker caramel. Rich on the palate, mouth-coating, sweet, with lively spices. The finish is buttery, with a pinch of ginger, and a final brandy-and-soda finish. 

Distilled in October 1991, this 20 year old Private Collection expression of Balblair spent 40 months of secondary maturation in casks sourced from Crozes-Hermitage, the largest AOC in the northern Rhône wine-producing region of France. The nose offers red currants, sultanas, vanilla, and white pepper. The palate is initially soft and sweet, with summer fruits, but gradually darkens and dries. The finish features dark chocolate and raisins. 2,000 bottles. 

Gold color (as its name suggests) with a hint of copper. This whisky, which was finished in Caribbean rum casks, follows on the heels of the limited edition The Balvenie 17 year old Rum Cask. The 17 year old was pleasant enough, but quite sweet (I rated it an 80). This new Golden Cask is an improvement, because the higher alcohol level, along with an array of dried spice, helps to balance the sweet rum notes. Lively, bright tangerine, nectarine, and pineapple combine with Balvenie’s signature honey, nougat, Heath bar, light molasses, and milk chocolate. Dried spice (vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg) and gritty oak resin kick in on the finish, rounding everything out quite nicely. Now if we could only have the best of both worlds -- the balance of the Golden Cask 14 year old, and the maturity of the 17 year old. That could be a whisky worthy of a 90s rating. (Exclusive to Travel Retail.) Price per Litre.

A limited edition bottling to commemorate the great David Stewart’s 50th year in the business and, as befits this quiet man, here’s a release that rewards just sitting and listening. This gives more of a nod to Cognac than Speyside; something to do with the dried apricot, orange blossom, and golden syrup. The palate is gentle and layered, with more dried fruits, which are balanced by an almost jammy finish where, finally, some cereal is glimpsed.

This expression was aged in a European oak oloroso sherry butt. A savory opening to the nose, followed by figs dipped in lemon juice. Sweet, spicy cream sherry on the palate, Christmas cake flavors, then black pepper and tannins develop. The finish is medium to long, with honey and malt. Accomplished, but expensive for its age.

Antique gold. Aromas of toffee, malty sweetness, fresh mint and subtle oak. Mouth coating, creamy texture-almost chewy-with flavors of toffee, almonds, dark chocolate, and subtle wood spices on the finish. This is a very pleasing, straightforward whisky that is quite mature for its age.

Finished in a tawny port cask. Peat smoke and seaweed interwoven with layers of ripe, red fruit (currant, raspberry, cherry), crisp citrus, graham cracker, vanilla, and honey. Nice interplay between sweetness, fruit, and smoke. (Brighter and more dimensional than the other two reviewed here.) 

Benriach is a lesser-known whisky and, for a Speysider, fairly light in style. This one is very bright and fruity on the nose with aromas of citrus (lemon), pineapple, green grapes, vanilla bean, honey, and linseed oil. Its age is evident, but tucked away in the background. The palate mirrors the aromas and is quite complex. As you might expect for a 34 year old whisky, it dries out mid-palate with some grassy hay notes yielding to resinous oak towards the finish, but the oak never becomes excessive. I can’t remember the last time I tasted a Benriach this good. 

A peated version of Benriach that was also finished in a port pipe. There is a really nice blend of flavors here; a sweet malty foundation layered with ripe red fruit notes (raspberry, strawberry preserve, currant) and a firm blanket of smoke that goes on and on. All the flavors are bold, but they're equally balanced. Not a subtle whisky but quite entertaining. (A Binny's Beverage Depot exclusive.)

This is a new bottler to me and they’ve made quite an arrival with this, a classic Benrinnes. This is a distillery where meatiness is desirable, and this is as thick and savory as a slow-cooked pheasant stew or cassoulet, with an added herbal and pruney element. A real sweetness and a pleasing lift of sulfur (which can enhance whiskies) add to the complexity. Chewy on the tongue, with earthiness revealed by water. £65  

This most recent Connoisseurs’ Choice bottling from Scotland’s southernmost distillery has been matured in refill sherry hogsheads. The nose is pleasing and light, mildly herbal, with cut grass, citrus fruits, and a hint of malt. Medium-bodied, sweet and fruity in the mouth, with peaches, nuts, and discreet spice. Relatively lengthy in the creamy finish. Very drinkable and quite substantial.

One of the first releases from the recently formed Hunter Laing & Co, established in Glasgow by Stewart Laing, is this 20 year
old expression of Bladnoch. It was distilled in November 1992 and matured in a refill sherry cask. Lemon cake, honey, and ginger nuts on the pleasing nose; fruity and spicy on the palate, with a savory flourish, and a honey and malt backdrop. Spicy caramel and mocha coffee in the finish. £75

Samsara is a combination of 8 to 10 year old whiskies matured in first-fill bourbon barrels and California red wine hogsheads, bottled non-chill filtered. Initially slightly savory on the nose, then peaches and cream, and soft spices. The palate is supple and sweet, with vanilla, mango, and passion fruit. The finish is long, with spicy pears. Drier spices emerge and ultimately, light tannins. The red wine influence is greatly enhanced by the addition of a few drops of water. £60

This single cask bottling was distilled in February 1993 and matured for 20 years in a sherry butt. Rich and spicy on the nose: peel, dates, and sultanas. More floral in time. A silky mouthfeel, major spice notes, ginger, and sweet sherry. Long in the finish, with nutmeg and plain chocolate cherry liqueur.£80

Tempest to the world, Dorus Mor in the U.S., this has an intensely salty start that’s
like being slapped by a wave on Bowmore’s harbor wall. That marine note
continues: samphire, clams with a squeeze of lemon. Water brings out wet clay.
The palate is equally briny, but with a sprig of lavender, then soft fruits
wreathed in peat smoke. It’s tense and coiled, with real energy when neat, but
it’s best like that, so deal with the heat.

The ruby color gives the port maturation away, as does the nose: all plum crumble, stewed rhubarb, and caramelized orchard fruits. It’s more autumnal than jammy with hints of dusty angelica and only vestigial smoke. The palate is hot, with those hedgerow fruits and a light touch of perfumed lavender before a flock of tarry smoke appears on the finish. All well-integrated and at its best with a little water.

This was a true double maturation: a dozen years in first-fill bourbon and then 13 years in claret. In its 20s, Bowmore tends to shed its smoke and allows the soft fruits (here, persimmon, nectarine) which have always been there to show themselves. There’s a light oiliness on the tongue. The casks have added vanilla, red fruits, and spice, but the overall impression is of harmony and integration. Lovely. (200 bottles) £350

Less appetizing brine and zing, and showing more “weight” when compared to its sibling. Sweeter notes of toffee, fig, and vanilla fudge lay the foundation for mixed nuts, black raspberry, plum, nectarine, and ripe red grape. A soothing dram. 

A distinctive (and intriguing) Bruichladdich, with honeyed malt, vanilla pod, charcoal, exotic fruit, and dark chocolate bourbon balls, teased with suggestions of fennel and espresso bean. Tactile, leather finish. (A D&M Wines & Liquors exclusive.)

This has good breadth and hints of honey-nut cornflakes on the nose, with the distillery’s sweet, lemon-fresh/floral core still evident, but skewed more toward roasted notes, like toasted rice and sun-dried grasses; even a hint of the felt-festooned interior of a woolen mill. Water brings out meadowsweet. Raspberries lead on the palate, contrasting with the crisp, nutty chaff notes. It’s citric and gingery on the finish, but has drive and energy. £42

The nose is slightly closed, all very delicate, with some hay-like aromas akin to harvest time. This gentleness allows sweet melon-like fruits to come through, alongside patisserie, icing, gentle vanilla, and an effect like Hedione, the ‘smell’ of sunshine. Rounded and very sweet, typical of the distillery, with a lightly drying effect similar to powdered icing sugar. It slightly loses it with water, so keep neat. A pleasant, straight down the middle Laddie. £60/500 ml

The official Fèis Ìle  2016 bottling. This is a mix of bourbon and wine casks given a period in virgin oak. The finish initially adds a certain sauna-like element, but then the distillery’s lemon drops and flowers come through, alongside baked apples, coconut, and a touch of smoke. The alcohol burn is negligible, allowing more estery elements, melon, and red fruits to come through. A classic Laddie, in other words. (1881 bottles) £95

Matured in cognac before being finished in Sauternes; here we have a clean, sweet, and well-rounded Bunna’, with hickory-like smoke, bonfire, and ginger biscuits. Lightly vegetal notes with farmyard elements among the smoke and thick, citric sweetness. Immediate smoke on top of this mix of spice, Seville orange, apricot, cheesecake base, hazelnut, red fruits, and preserved ginger in syrup adding an almost peppery finish. Lovely. £250

This expression includes young, heavily-peated Bunnahabhain matured in bourbon barrels, mixed with 20 to 21 year old spirit aged in sherry butts. Fragrant, peppery peat on the early nose, brine and fabric Band-Aids. Ultimately, leathery orange. Smooth and supple on the palate, with intense, smoky fresh fruit giving way to quite dry spices. The relatively long finish yields drying peat, plain chocolate, and developing licorice. £80

This is Caol Ila not only in unpeated guise, but from a ‘bodega-treated’ sherry butt. Full and lush, the distillery’s pear and melon here are in super-ripe guise alongside sweet biscuits, mashed banana, and Mars bar. With water, it’s more a cabinetmaker’s workshop—but isn’t woody. The mouth is sweet and concentrated with jabs of raspberry and hedgerow fruits. Who needs peat? My best value bottling this issue.  

Unpeated Caol Ilas have become a regular in the Special Releases portfolio and this expression from 2000 is the eleventh to appear. The early nose is reticent and faintly floral, with freshly sliced green apples. Sharp and sweet on the palate, with malt and citrus fruit, and even a hint of mint. Ginger, mixed nuts, aniseed, and more mint in the medium-length finish. Diageo Special Releases 2016 bottling.

When this first appeared I found it too sweet, which was strange, as the finishing period is in dry oloroso casks. This most recent iteration sees the finish better integrated. There’s more spiciness than on the standard 14 year old, while the fruit seems plumper: more apricot and kumquat. The waxiness is there but the candle is scented. It still clings to the tongue, but there is an added nutty, oxidized character. A marked improvement.£47

Duncan Taylor’s latest cask strength, single cask release from the Sutherland distillery of Clynelish is 21 years old. It is sweet on the nose, with hand-rolling tobacco, milk chocolate, overripe grapes, and vanilla. Becoming saltier and drier. Nutty and mildly maritime on the palate, with lots of spice, steadily drying. Spice and ginger in the lengthy, oily finish. £80

The latest Wemyss Malts single cask offering from Clynelish distillery is a 16 year old expression, matured in a hogshead which gave an out-turn of 339 bottles. The nose offers sea salt and lemon, with emerging green apples and vanilla. Apple tart with custard and a dusting of cinnamon on the palate. The finish is long and peppery, with a hint of freshly-ground coffee beans. £75

With the percentage of former oloroso sherry-matured spirit ramped up to 60 percent in this Dee variant, the nose is deeper and richer than that of the Tweed Dram; Seville orange marmalade and a hint of cocoa. More immediate dark chocolate on the palate, with raisins and walnuts. The finish is lengthy, with plums, black coffee, and a suggestion of licorice. £42 Currently not available in the U.S. 

Comprising 80 percent American white oak-matured whisky and 20 percent from ex-oloroso sherry casks, the Tweed Dram offers lots of citrus fruit on the nose, with an early dusting of icing sugar, then orange and lemon wine gums. Relatively light and fresh, with gentle fudge notes. Malt, toffee, cinnamon, and over-ripe oranges on the spicy palate. Quite long in the finish, with spicy oak, nutmeg, and lingering dark chocolate notes. £42 Currently not available in the U.S. 

The most youthful bottling in the Constellation series is a 19 year old, which started life in a first-fill bourbon barrel before being transferred into a European oak port pipe in 2002 for a further nine years of maturation. The nose offers a hint of new leather, marzipan, developing caramel, and damsons. Zesty fruit, allspice, and ground ginger on the palate, along with thick-cut orange marmalade. The finish is long, warming, and spicy. Cask number 18; 737 bottles. 

Along with Cragganmore, this is one of the underrated members of the original Classic Six. Quite why has always slightly baffled me. OK, it isn’t smoky, but the nose has a deep, soft, honeyed sweetness: think caramelized fruits, hints of thick cream, and a light touch of fennel and sharp citrus. Thick in the center and very gentle, it’s that chunkiness in the middle that is the secret to its beauty.

There have been three previous Special Release offerings of Dalwhinnie, and this 1987 distillation is the first to have been aged in rejuvenated American oak hogsheads. Cloves are to the fore on the aromatic nose, along with cinnamon, ginger, fudge, and tropical fruits. Initially oily and honeyed on the palate, with developing spice, wood resin, and herbal flavors. Spicy oak in the lengthy finish, with a return to the initial note of cloves. 5,358 bottles.

Distilled in 1989, this edition of Dalwhinnie is the fifth to appear in this annual line-up, and was aged in refill American oak hogsheads. 5,196 bottles are available. Pine, vanilla, and honey on the nose. Sweet on the viscous palate, with unripe apples, pineapple, cinnamon, and honey. The finish is medium in length, slightly savory, with dark chocolate and a hint of sweet oak.

A mélange of sugared almonds, toffee, sultana, and citrus peel. Firm on the palate, with a nutty, spicy oak finish. Nicely done. (Exclusive to Binny’s Beverage Depot.) 

The fifth peated release of Edradour. This one is aged in Marsala casks. Sweet, with clinging fruit and thumping raw smoke. Youthful, embracing, and fleshy in the middle, with ash, anise, and espresso that grow toward the finish. These Ballechin releases keep getting better. Reminds me of a young Islay whisky without the brine and seaweed. 

Lemons, salt, and then malt on the nose. The palate is initially smooth, then fizzy fruits come through, with a hint of vanilla and slight brininess. The finish is well-mannered, with spicy soft fruits.

This 15 year old has been fully matured in bourbon casks. Relatively reticent on the nose, with light vanilla. Becoming more aromatic and spicy, with tinned apricots in syrup. Medium-bodied, relatively dry, with ginger, oak, and cloves, before a touch of milk chocolate appears. The chocolate darkens. Aniseed and perpetual spice.

Clearly sharing the same DNA as the 10 year old expression, this variant has less overt pear drops on the nose, which is altogether more floral and complex, with ripe oranges, pineapple, and an herbal note. Elegant on the palate, with orange, vanilla; and contrasting dark berries, black pepper, and oak. The finish is lengthy and slightly oily. £57

New in 2016, this is an NAS entry-level bottling for the brand, matured in bourbon barrels before spending a finishing period in oloroso sherry butts. Sweet and malty on the nose, a hint of mash, then pineapple. Becoming more floral, with violets. The palate offers soft fruit notes, cocoa powder, light sherry, and mixed nuts. The finish is medium in length, with milky coffee and soft spices.

Nicely sherried. Rich, with maple syrup, honey-drenched citrus, sultana, and a good dried oak spice finish for balance. Well done for a 12 year old, and definite competition for Macallan of the same age. 

The variety between this series of single casks is quite extraordinary. This has a soft and light nose with some mint and liqueured fruit, and a big, rich, and impressive taste with anise and menthol, glacé cherries, and traces of mint. The finish is warming and full, with the mint and cherry theme carrying through to a slightly peppery conclusion. £71 

The first peated GlenDronach release, matured in bourbon barrels before a period in oloroso and Pedro Ximenez sherry casks. The nose offers dry, earthy peat, then becomes quite perfumed, with vanilla and lime. Light to medium-bodied, with sweeter peat notes on the palate. Creamy, with honey, cinnamon sticks, and green apples. The finish is medium in length, with peat slowly fading and a flaring of spices near the close.

I always think that having “dull” in the middle of its name doesn’t do this distillery any favors. This is anything but; instead this is a fresh and vibrant example that brings on a Whitmanesque reverie of chewing on leaves of grass: sappy, fresh chlorophyll, coumarin, lime. These scented grasses—now vetiver—remain in charge on the tongue. A rolling prairie in the mouth, and best neat.

A sherry butt this time, which has allowed the whisky a little more space to breathe. Although as concentrated as you'd expect here, we can see more fragrance emerging and a big-boned elegance is on show — think Margaret Dumont. I pick up some rose hip syrup, dried apple, Armagnac/prune, and a licorice note, as seen on the ’62; while on the palate, a good balance of rich chocolatey sweetness to offset the tannins. Big but balanced. £512

The color is light gold, the nose is very sweet and delicate, with a floral aspect that’s not always immediately apparent in Glenfarclas. This is from a fourth-fill hogshead, which provides creaminess, toffee, a little hint of orchid, burnt cream, and grilled peach. Sweetly delicious. The palate is akin to bread-and-butter pudding, with that creaminess continuing. All very summery and ‘up.’ Quite different, but appealing. £350

Delicate, with some jasmine, lily of the valley, and even, with time, the rich aldehydes of Chanel No.5. This heaviness gives a butterscotch-like quality when water’s added, alongside apple. The palate is thicker than the light color suggests—it’s from a fourth-fill hogshead—with overripe pear and white chocolate; with water, becomes scented with an added touch of marzipan and chestnut puree. One for a thoughtful afternoon’s contemplation. £760

The world’s best-selling single malt. Isn’t that sufficient to give this dram some respect? It might be me, but it strikes me that ’Fiddich has more heft to it these days, with a sherried element giving the pear, apple, and light cereal of the distillery character a sweet, plump, sultana underpinning. This then adds chewiness to the palate, balancing the dry nuttiness and receding on the finish where those green fruits come through to add fresh acidity. Great balance. 

Here, a new solera vat is home to a Glenfiddich that has been exclusively aged in sherry casks, and shows its origins with deep, black fruitiness, orange peel, and sultana. The signature pears of ’Fiddich
here are dried and sit next to moist fruitcake. Ripe and long, with toffee, a pleasant wisp of sulfur, and blackberry. An easy-going sherried style that’s ideal for the beginner. (Travel Retail exclusive.) £49/1 liter

Another from Glenfiddich’s three new solera vats, here we can see the distillery’s light character turned up to the max thanks to a mix of American oak, red wine casks, and a smidgen of sherry. Think of hyacinth, ultra-fresh William pear, light barley, and grass. Zesty, clean and light, and ridiculously drinkable with a silky feel in the middle of the tongue. Quite a bargain. (Travel Retail exclusive.) £39/1 liter

Pale straw in color, and while it is clean and fresh, it’s also very delicate, with elderflower blossom, dusty florals, and a freshly-starched linen note. All rather discreet, shy even, but effort reveals a subtly lovely dram. Water adds a perfumed, green note. As the nose suggests, it’s not an immediate thruster of a malt, with some light jasmine tea and a little fleshy fruit on the end. Tread cautiously, lest you scare it.

I used to find this a little lacking in structure. Either I’ve changed my palate (or was always wrong), or the solera’s slow changes have added depth and complexity. The nose is all cooked plums, with some blueberry, stewing rhubarb. All is delicately scented, with some currant leaf, then sultana and sweet dried fruits. The palate is equally fruity—more hedgerow fruits now—but there’s grip and a little fresh acidity to balance. Hugely appealing and approachable.

Melon notes to the fore early on the nose; floral, especially carnations. Progressively more caramel, with Parma violet sweets. Pretty and feminine. Richer and fuller-bodied on the palate than the nose might suggest. Fresh fruit, apple juice, almonds, and gentle spices, slowly moving to milky coffee in the finish. The faintest hint of smoke pervades the flavor, but is very much a ‘bit part’ player in the ensemble. 

This is the first expression from Glen Garioch to have been fully matured in wine casks, specifically tonneaux de vin rouge barriques from Saint-Julien in Bordeaux. The whisky was distilled on June 23rd, 1998, and spent over 15 years in the Bordeaux wood. Milk chocolate-coated caramels, crystallized ginger, and cranberries on the nose. Autumn berries on the early palate, turning to cough syrup, with rich malt and lively chocolate spiciness. Caramel merges with white pepper in the relatively long finish.

The ruby/antique amber color suggests a first-fill sherry cask; the nose and palate confirm it. This whisky is a mouthful: fruitcake, roasted chestnuts, burnt raisin, candied orange, molasses, leather, tobacco, dark chocolate, wax, and a hint of clove. An incredible amount of sherry, but it’s not cloying. The flavors are clean, complex, and well-balanced.

An intriguing whisky. Blueberry cobbler, crushed grape, maple syrup, nougat, and spice (cinnamon, nutmeg). The oak is polished and unimposing. Liqueur-ish. A nice contrast to its younger sibling, and it’s more polarizing because of its distinctiveness. 

Glenglassaugh distillery has released a number of country-exclusive expressions recently, including this 37 year old single cask (470 bottles) for North America, under the Master Distillers Selection banner. Initially, cornflakes and sherry on the nose, with developing vanilla and soft toffee. Becoming very sweet. Rich and notably spicy on the palate, with dates and dark chocolate. Persistently spicy in the finish, with background citrus fruits.

A new, cask-strength Glengoyne without chill-filtering. Both features put this whisky in a higher class than the entry level 10 year old. That classic clean maltiness which Glengoyne is known for is certainly in this whisky. With the addition of some water, the whisky really opens up, becoming fragrant, fruity (cherry pits, apples), along with hints of anise and almonds. A nice effort from the new owners. 

Distiller’s Gold is exclusive to Travel Retail outlets and is dedicated to the distillery’s first manager, Cochran Cartwright, whose ghost is said to haunt the Stirlingshire distillery. Distiller’s Gold displays a nose of brittle nut toffee and dried fruit, with vanilla and caramel notes emerging. Spicy tropical fruits on the palate, with an edge of cinnamon and ginger. Medium in length, pleasantly oaky, persistently nutty and spicy. Price is per liter.

Glengoyne’s core range has been revamped: the 12 year old cask strength bottling was replaced by one with no age statement, and this 15 year old was added. Maturation has taken place in sherry casks and the result is a nose of vanilla, ginger, toffee, vintage cars’ leather seats, and sweet fruit notes. The somewhat oily palate features quite lively spices, raisins, hazelnuts, and oak. The finish is medium in length and spicy to the end, with cocoa powder. £48

The third Special Releases cask strength Glenkinchie is the oldest to date and the first to have been matured in European oak casks. Peach and pear soufflé on the initial nose, followed by apricots and toffee. The palate is rich and smooth, with dark fruits, walnuts, nutmeg, and a hint of resin. Quite lengthy, with ginger and white pepper in the aromatic and subtly drying finish. Diageo Special Releases 2016. (5,928 bottles)

Amber gold color. Rather sweet aroma and flavors of caramel, light toffee, almonds, and vanilla. A background note of fruit (lemon? ripe cherries?) contributes to its complexity. Its body is somewhat rich and chewy. A dryness on the finish keeps the sweetness of the whisky in check. 

Well-rounded and pleasingly sweet, with ripe red strawberries, raspberry, tropical fruit, graham cracker, white chocolate, and anise, all on a bed of toffee. Some charred oak on the finish. This whisky has a gentle, soothing persona which I think most people will enjoy (me included). 

Well-rounded and pleasingly sweet, with ripe strawberry, raspberry, tropical fruit, graham cracker, white chocolate, and anise, all on a bed of toffee.  Some charred oak on the finish.  This whisky has a gentle, soothing persona which I think most people will enjoy (me included).

This Travel Retail-exclusive from Glenmorangie is the inaugural expression in the distiller’s new Legends series. Glenmorangie Duthac is matured in a mix of charred virgin oak and Pedro Ximénez sherry casks. Peaches, tangerines, cloves, vanilla, and toffee bonbons on the nose. Silky on the palate, with warm spices, honey, intense tropical fruit, and fresh ginger. Relatively long and creamy in the finish, with nutmeg, marzipan, and milk chocolate. Price is per liter.

Antique gold color. Rich, thick malty aroma with interwoven notes of fruit, anise, and polished oak. Medium to full in body and rich in texture and flavor, with chewy toffee, roasted nuts, vanilla fudge, and candied fruit. Soothing finish, with a gentle sweetness balanced by a soft, leathery dryness. 

This hails from the first of Rothes’ stock that was specifically laid down for the vintage release program. The nose shows typical Rothes softness — woolen blankets and malted milk. As it opens. there’s wet linen, caramel fudge, and a hint of mixed berry and dark fruits slowly collapsing into jam. A touch of sherried nuttiness on the palate is followed by thick clover honey and a little crisp malt. The finish is gentle, lightly spiced with a touch of struck match sulfur. 

Last year, four whisky editors were invited by Glenrothes’ heritage director Ronnie Cox to choose a single cask bottling. Being opinionated hacks, they couldn’t agree and so two casks were chosen! This, the oldest, from a refill butt, is for the European markets, and shows hints of rancio: truffle, leaf mold, boot polish, and star anise. The impression is of faded elegance with tannins, fruit, and spice in harmony, and a hint of pomegranate-like bitterness just on the end. £600

A very immediate, expressive, sweet start, with manuka honey dribbling on top of baked fruits, sweet citrus, and a dollop of clotted cream on the side. All very luscious and calorific. As if this dessert theme wasn’t sufficient, the palate lays it on even more thickly, with apricot now joining the mass of fruits. The light grip adds very necessary structure and stops things getting floppy. One for those with a sweet tooth. Recommended.(U.S. only)

Lightly grassy and hay-like, with some wheat chaff. The nose is quite hot, but that cereal note (reminiscent of draff) is pleasing, sitting alongside clean apple and orange barley water. The palate is sweeter and more floral (pear blossom) compared to the nose, though retaining some nuttiness. Has good verve. When diluted, the finish shows real chocolate and some dry spice. A very interesting young ‘un. £54

A rare bottling from a distillery that is more commonly released as a part of whisky blends. Light fruit and sweet malt define the nose, with apple, apricot, and honey. The entry is bursting with flavor, centered around malt, along with honey, salt, and apricot. The mid-palate adds a touch of oak, smoke, and spice, and is extremely well integrated and balanced. A medium-length finish ends abruptly and a little too dry, the only left turn in an otherwise superb whisky. (Julio’s Liquors only)

Recently added to Chivas Brothers’ lineup of Cask Strength Edition whiskies, this Eastern Highland single malt from the ‘lost’ distillery of Glenugie in the fishing port of Peterhead is perfumed on the nose, with discreet sherry, cocoa, fresh leather, blackcurrants, peaches, and apricots. The palate is initially sweet, with fresh fruit, but old-fashioned cough drops and black coffee notes soon arrive. Very long in the spicy, tannic oak finish. Exclusive to Chivas Brothers’ distillery visitor centers and www.maltwhiskydistilleries.com (500 bottles). £250 

Elgin distiller, bottler, and whisky merchant Gordon & MacPhail has revamped its prestigious Rare Old range of veteran single malts, many from lost distilleries, and this bottling from Glenugie in Peterhead is one of the latest releases in the lineup. Sweet on the nose, with marshmallows, wax polish, creamy caramel, and milk chocolate. Quite full-bodied, with white pepper, ginger, muted citrus fruit, and cocoa. Soon starts to dry…drying steadily through the nutty finish, with musty oak and aniseed. £430

Dark and complex. Sweet notes of toffee and caramel are spiced with notes of cinnamon and cocoa. Background notes of smoldering peat, oak resin, and clove add intrigue and balance the sweetness. Long, resinous, dried spice finish. (Bottled for Sam’s Wines and Spirits) 

A lush Highland Park, aged in a sherry cask. Ripe fruit (sultana, apricot, dark cherry pits), layers of sweetness (toffee, nougat, molasses) almonds, and juicy oak. Hints of vanilla cream, honey, heather and polished leather add dimension. This sherry contribution is clean, not overly sappy or waxy like others I have tasted. (Bottled exclusively for Binny's Beverage Depot.)

Harald Fairhair was King of Norway and a major figure in Viking history. This Warrior variant takes us closer to Highland Park’s traditional DNA, with the nose offering potato peels on a barbecue; earthy and herbal, with developing notes of heather in bloom and even violets. Lively fresh fruits, newly-baked cake, nutmeg, and ginger figure on the palate. The spicy finish is relatively long, with candied citrus peel and licorice. €75/700 ml

The fifth batch of Adelphi’s Fascadale single malt comprises a marriage of two Spanish oak casks and three American oak casks of Highland Park. The outturn is 1,483 bottles. Icing sugar, vanilla, milk chocolate, apricots, plus mildly smoky malt on the nose. Full-bodied and fruity on the palate, with toffee, black pepper, and a hint of peat in the background. The medium-length finish is slowly drying. £45

Heather honey, malt, newly-cut hay, pineapple, and very slight smoke on the nose. Leather, malt, cinnamon, a touch of oak and soft smokiness on the palate. Medium in length, with a hint of honey behind the oak, spice, and smoke. (Travel Retail exclusive.) €150

Freya is the third release in Highland Park’s Valhalla Collection; unusually, it has been matured in first-fill bourbon casks. It fits into the core range between the 12 and 18 year olds. The nose is sweet, floral, and heathery, with pineapple, mango, and a background earthiness. Finally, vanilla and milk chocolate. Smooth on the palate, with passion fruit, and more overt peatiness than is apparent on the nose. Subtle peat, char, and a hint of licorice in the finish.

A coastal Speysider, and this is evident in many of the Inchgower bottlings, including this one. This is quite a fruity dram, with notes of tangerine, lemon, and kiwi. Soft vanilla, coconut, and honey play in the mix, with a lingering salty/seaweed tang on the palate for intrigue. Very clean, light, and surprisingly reserved in oak notes, considering its age. 

Technically a Speyside whisky, but it tastes more like a coastal Northern Highlander. The foundation of this whisky is a lovely honeyed maltiness. It is aged in a sherry cask, which provides layers of rich toffee, caramel, and orange marmalade. Brisk sea salt notes emerge on the palate keeping the whisky fresh and quite lively-the coastal influence-while deft seaweed and spice add complexity. 

Antique gold. Gentle aromas of oak, caramel, and a hint of vanilla and sea breeze. Light-medium body, with a creamy texture. Soft, gentle flavors of vanilla, toffee, subtle fruit and brine, with a dryish oaky finish. 

Amber gold color. Medium bodied and slightly oily. Peaty bonfire aroma and flavors, complemented by a creamy caramel maltiness. Subtle notes of brine, seaweed, and a hint of pear fruit spice things up a bit. Gently dry, moderately smoky finish, with teasing sea salt notes. I have always wondered what a peat smoke infused Isle of Jura whisky would taste like. I was also concerned that too much peat smoke could dominate this whisky's flavor profile. Fortunately, this hasn't happened. The peat smoke is certainly evident, but the Jura character comes through too. One extra bonus: it's bottled at 45%, which kicks the flavors up a notch.

Though as pale as ever, this Lagavulin is hardly in need of a Charles Atlas course. The nose is ozonic, like rock pools at low tide with kelp splattered around. Sweetness comes in the form of cloudy apple juice and a smokehouse kipperiness. The palate is explosive, with masses of retronasal action showing violet root, thyme, juniper, tarragon/fennel, and a finish akin to smoked cheese. An improvement on the 2012 release.

Extreme peat smoke explodes out of the glass. It’s diesely, burnt tire smoke more than campfire. Past the peat, there's salt, paste, and honey. On the palate it's another blast of smoke. This nearly chokingly strong smoke dissipates slightly to reveal oyster shells, malt, paste, and honey. Make no mistake, the smoke is the star and will remind you of that fact hours after you finish your last sip. An uber-peated whisky that hardcore peatheads will surely adore. (U.S. only)

Another NAS Laphroaig made from a blend of different cask types. The nose is dry and lightly tarry—a note that continues to the dried glass. There are medicinal phenols, a biscuity note, then an aroma of fuel, like being on a trawler deck. The palate shows integration between the oaks, lending a smokehouse aroma. Water lightens, but you still get that smoky smear of phenol at the end that tells you this is Laphroaig. Like it.

A non-chill filtered, cask strength single malt from Littlemill, vintage 1991. Littlemill’s sweet nose is inviting, with butter toffee, milk chocolate, dried apricot, and straw. On the palate, these notes are joined by a nice maltiness as well as a touch of salt. In the mid-palate we get a touch of spice (black pepper and cinnamon) and some citrus. The finish is medium-length and slightly acidic, a departure for an otherwise affable cask strength whisky. (Park Avenue Liquor only)

I’ve known Loch Lomond has been making some peated expressions, and it’s nice to finally see (and taste) some product being bottled with this whisky and its sibling Croftengea, reviewed below. This is my choice of the two, with greater (and more richly textured) flavors to accompany the peat. The smoke is balanced (and tamed) nicely by sweet notes of creamy vanilla, honey, gristy malt, hay, and subtle fruit and spice. The finish remains balanced and lingers with a smoky, lightly salty tang. Fresh and youthful, yet still nicely matured at 13 years old, and a nice alternative to smoky Islay whiskies. 

A big and sappy Longmorn, with notes of chewy toffee, juicy oak, candied fruit, sandalwood, citrus and even some distant smoke. The standard distillery issue of Longmorn 15 year old itself is a big whisky-one of the biggest in Speyside with its rich, malty foundation-but this expression kicks it up a notch. Aging 31 years in a sherry butt injects this whisky with a lot more sherry character along with those woody, citrus spicy notes found in so many older whiskies. While not as clean as the distillery issue and its maltiness is somewhat masked, there’s a lot going on here to entertain the palate. And although one could argue that the sherry is a bit extreme, the equally extreme dry, spicy oak notes provide ample contrast. 

Finished (or ACE’d -- additional cask enhanced -- as they say) in a Madeira cask. Soft in texture, and deceivingly seductive in nature. Pleasingly sweet (honey, caramel, aromas of sticky toffee pudding) with lush summer fruit and gentle spice notes emerging towards the finish. A soft, pleasing Macallan with everything in balance. Nicely done.

This time we’ve got Macallan in savory mode, even a little balsamic. The spirit shows its hand more than in the 1995, with typical Macallan heft. Now you are deep in a forest of yew and larch with a dark chocolate bar for sustenance. Maturity has brought out leather alongside clove and resin. The palate shows a similar tomato note seen in the 1995 cask, with positive bitterness and wedding cake. Though grippy, it has great balance. 285 bottles.  

Richly layered. A veritable fruit basket, in addition to nutty toffee, caramel, cocoa powder, and toasted coconut notes, all balanced nicely by oak on the finish. Nice maturity for a relatively young whisky. (Bottled for Maxwell Street Trading Co.)

The richest of the quartet. Super-dense with a note of burnished brass, then light leather and cashew alongside sandalwood. The waxiness and tropical fruit typical of old whiskies is in the background before it moves into lanolin. The palate starts sweetly, with added liqueur cherries, earth, and smoke but for me, after the complex nose it fails to deliver, especially since it is so scarily priced. £600/500 ml

Fresh, briny, and very appetizing. Mouth-coating vanilla, lightly toasted marshmallow, and a kiss of honey add a soothing balance, while pineapple, nectarine, gentle spice, and subtle seaweed offer intrigue. Old Pulteney has great potential if only given the opportunity. Bottling at cask strength and not chill-filtered really brings out more of the whisky’s subtle complexities. I welcome more single cask, cask-strength Pulteneys in the future. (A Park Avenue Liquor exclusive.)

Explorer Jock Wishart’s successful ‘Row to the Pole’ expedition is celebrated with this 3,000 bottle commemorative edition matured in ex-American and ex-Spanish oak sherry casks selected by distillery manager Malcolm Waring. New-mown grass, ripe apples, brine, and a whiff of  Arbroath smokies on the nose. Citrus fruit, spices, and milk chocolate on the palate, with sherry lending gravitas. The finish is sweet, full, and lengthy, with brine returning at the last. £20 (350 ml)

Apart from the 40 year old expression launched in 2012, this is the oldest Old Pulteney on the market, and annual batches are
released with slightly varying strengths. Refill bourbon casks have been used in their maturation. Sweet and zesty on the deceptively youthful nose, with banoffee pie, eating apples, and quite sweet oak on the palate. Cereal notes and pleasing oak in the lengthy finish. £250

Duncansby Head has been aged in a mixture of bourbon and Spanish sherry casks. The nose is initially slightly earthy; then Old Pulteney’s characteristic marine nature develops discreetly, along with icing sugar sprinkled on apple pie and a hint of roasted potato skins. The palate is smooth and chewy, with sherry making its presence felt along with cooked apples, oranges, sultanas, nutmeg, and cocoa. The finish is spicy and nicely rounded. £45/liter

Dunnet Head replaces Duncansby Head and consists of 80 percent sherry cask-matured whisky and 20 percent aged in bourbon wood. It is non-chill filtered. Soft caramel on the nose, plus a hint of fresh ginger and meadow hay. Sweet, spicy sherry and a heathery note on the nicely textured palate, with suggestions of citrus and salt. Medium in length, with lingering soft spices in the finish; ginger and cinnamon at the close. (Travel Retail exclusive)

Port Ellen whiskies are getting pretty rare (and expensive). This one is softer and less vibrant than others that I’ve tasted, but still very much Port Ellen, and still enjoyable! Notes of coal tar, rooty licorice, toffee, dark chocolate, and nougat, with background citrus gumdrops, ginger, brine, seaweed, peat bog, and damp oak. I think bottling this at 46% without chill-filtering, or perhaps even cask-strength, would have helped the flavors “zing" (and elevated my rating).

Gold color. Soft, delicate aroma of fruit gum drops, vanilla, and a touch of honey. Light in body, with a soft texture. Its flavors are like its aroma, nicely balanced, with a gentle finish. 

Orange marmalade color. Aromas of ripe fruit (orange, strawberry, red raspberry), caramel, and toffee, with a subtle, Spanish oak resin spiciness. Medium to full in body with a silky texture. Nicely balanced on the palate and very well integrated flavors similar to the aromas. Silky smooth finish. 

The Old Malt Cask ‘Royal Jubilee Commemorative Bottle’ appropriately comes from one of two surviving Scottish distilleries with a ‘royal’ prefix, namely Brackla, located in the Northern Highland region, near Nairn. Maturation has taken place in a refill sherry cask. The nose is like a damp, empty house, with herbal notes, pencil shavings, oranges, and pine needles. Full-bodied and spicy, with freshly-sawn timber, pine, and brittle toffee on the palate. Citric, with camphor and pepper in the finish. 250 bottles. £50

The nose offers warm spices, walnuts, malt, peaches in cream, honey, vanilla, and a slightly herbal, earthy note. Quite robust on the palate for its strength, with spice, sweet sherry, and mildly smoky orchard fruit. The finish is relatively long, with cocoa powder, citrus fruit, and ginger.

(Reviewer's note: This is a bottling exclusive to Sam's Wine & Spirits in Chicago, IL.) Springbank bottlings over the past few years have been variable, but improving. The less inspiring ones have been too heavily sherried and/or lacked the classic Springbank freshness, liveliness, and briny character one has come to expect from a Campbeltown whisky. This one is indeed from a sherry cask. It's still not the classic Springbanks we were spoiled with in the 1990s, but it's delicious nonetheless. Yes, there's plenty of sherry (and these notes contribute lush fruit, toffee, and nuts), but the youth and zest of this whisky cuts through it and balances it nicely, with those familiar brine and coconut notes interwoven throughout. A bold and satisfying Springer, with more character that the 175th Anniversary 12 year old distillery bottling that has been in circulation.

Powerful, mature, and nicely rounded. Similar in some ways to the Springer 10 year old 46% reviewed below, with the addition of toasted coconut and caramel. It’s also more rounded and with greater depth. 

Full sherry impact, but the Springbank character does manage to fight its way through it. Thick, sweet notes of toffee and molasses are accentuated by dark raisin, golden raisin, prune, date nut cake, and fruit gumdrops. Nutty, briny, rhum agricole finish. A Springbank for sherry lovers. (From a single cask, 591 bottles, exclusively for the U.S.) 

Visit Springbank’s tasting room and you’ll find distillery-only bottlings of all three whisky styles produced by the Campbeltown distillery. But it’s this malt that will probably attract the most interest. Glengyle was officially re-opened in 2004, and in recent years Springbank has released a work in progress each year. What makes this unusual is the fact that the maturing malt is held in a cask which is kept at least half full, and each year it is topped up with malt from 2004, through the solera method. This year, then, the oldest malt is six years old. The nose definitely suggests a work in progress, and is immature, rootsy, and meaty, though some orange and citrus fruit notes are there, too. On the palate there’s plenty to be encouraged by, with some spearmint and menthol, developing fruitiness, earthy peat, and distinctive salt and spice. 

Complex citrus (orange, tangerine, lime, and a hint of lemon), honeyed malt kissed by maple syrup, caramelized pineapple, cinnamon, and a dusting of nutmeg. Nutty toffee on the finish. 

What you might expect a traditional 100% oloroso sherry cask-aged Springbank to taste like, with probably the most familiar flavor profile of the four: rich, with nuts and dried fruit, chocolate-coated brittle toffee, plenty of spice (cinnamon, ginger), polished oak, hint of tobacco and smoke. 

This bourbon-cask matured 12 year old was distilled using organic barley. 9,000 bottles released globally. Pears and pineapple in brine on the early nose. Peanut brittle, licorice, and subtle peat. Sweet and intensely fruity on the viscous palate, with developing nuttiness, vanilla, spice, and peat smoke. The finish is medium in length, with sweet fruit, more licorice, and sea salt.

The immediate shore-like blast suggests that the sweet amoroso casks haven’t been overly enthusiastic in their embrace. What seems to have happened is that while giving some date and prune they have added an extra layer of oak — giving a charred element — and, like Lagavulin, hints of tar. The smoke is obscured and the pepper is Javanese. It’s a polite Talisker, but the absorption of the smoke means it has lost something integral to its being. 

Previously only available as part of Diageo’s annual Special Releases program, and now bottled at the classic Talisker strength of 45.8%, instead of cask strength. Initially salty, then sweet and spicy on the nose, with summer berries, heather honey, and an earthy note, plus subtle peat. Spicy and drying on the slightly waxy palate, with licorice, aniseed, and prominent peat embers. The finish is medium in length, peppery, and relatively tannic. £225 

percent sherry hogsheads and 70 percent bourbon casks. The edition is limited to 9,000 bottles. The nose features malt, milk chocolate, and honey, with a citric edge. The palate mirrors the nose with more malt, honey, and milk chocolate, plus ginger, nutmeg, and spicy oak. Spiced fruits in the lengthy finish. £45

Not all Speyside whiskies are big, masculine, and sherried. Some are gentler, as is this expression of Tamnavulin. The whisky is creamy and smooth in texture, with notes of vanilla custard, honeyed malt, and even a hint of marshmallow and hay. Very soothing finish. This is one of the most polished Tamnavulin whiskies I’ve tasted recently (and going from 40% to 43% in strength provided some extra richness and body). Whisky with dessert, anyone? 

This 21 year old from Tobermory is of the peated Ledaig variety, though sampling confirms that the level of peating in Ledaig malt has been significantly ramped up since this was produced. Sweet on the nose, with subtle aromatic smoke, unsalted butter, peaches in syrup, and heather honey. Luscious and viscous on the sweet, fruity palate, with honey, underlying soft spices, and some gentle smoke. Slowly drying in the finish to licorice root and black coffee. £110

Fragrant and very clean. Gently sweet with notes of vanilla cream, ripe barley, fresh cut hay, sherbet (orange and lemon), and a hint of bourbon -especially on the finish. An enjoyable and undemanding whisky to drink when the whisky itself isn’t the main topic of conversation. 

The "Gentle Dram," it says on the bottle’s label, and it certainly is one of the gentler whiskies in Speyside. It’s a fragrant whisky too with a firm malty foundation, fruit gum drops and caramel. Subtle notes of almond and anise helped keep my interest, as did its soft, subtle wood spice finish. Very easy to drink too! 

The latest release from Tomatin distillery is a limited edition (3,150 bottles) 15 year old that has been matured in a combination of second-fill bourbon barrels and tempranillo wine casks (the grape of full-bodied Spanish reds like those from Rioja). The nose offers fruit cocktail and salted popcorn, while milk chocolate, vanilla, and nutty caramel notes emerge. Soft chocolate, bananas, and autumn berries on the slightly peppery palate. The finish is nutty, with lingering spice, peppery oak, and finally a lengthy, creamy sensation.

This portwood finish from Tomatin was matured for some 13 years in bourbon casks before being transferred for a final period of aging in Portuguese tawny port pipes, which had matured port for between 30 and 40 years. Initially reticent on the nose, with soft fruit notes, honey, and toffee, turning to cherry cough lozenges. Gently spiced on the nutty palate, with peaches and Cherryade. The finish is medium in length and always fruity.

Mashy peat notes on the early nose, then sherry, vanilla, and white pepper. Mouth-coating, with new leather and sweet spices on the palate. Gentle smokiness and black coffee gradually come to the fore. The finish is medium in length, with sweet, nutty peat which gradually dries.

Initially drier on the nose than the Fino expression, then caramel appears, along with milk chocolate and vanilla. More pronounced leathery notes than the Fino; fuller bodied and fruitier on the palate, with the fruit developing a salty tang. Lingering salty fruit and spices in the finish, with final dark chocolate.

Full sherry and old leather on the nose. Dried fruits, and finally a hint of meat extract. Rich, sweet, and sherried on the palate, with nutty spices. Medium to long in the spicy finish, with black currant and raisin notes.

Tomatin has released a limited edition (5,400) pack comprising two 350ml bottles, each containing a vatting of whisky distilled in 1973, 1977, 1988, 1991, 2002, and 2006. One was matured in bourbon barrels (see below); this one in sherry casks. Initially savory on the nose, then warm leather, sherry, and glacé cherries. Very smooth on the palate with soft spices, which increase in intensity. Black treacle and Seville oranges. Peppery treacle and old oak in the finish. £100

This is the third in a trilogy of limited releases from Tomatin, featuring the different cask types used to mature components of the standard, lightly peated Cù Bòcan variant. It follows Sherry Edition and Virgin Oak expressions. Initially, crisp green apples on the nose, then developing vanilla and caramel. Sweet, smoky apple and cinnamon. Soft and sweet on the early palate, with quite dry smoke evolving along with dark spices. Licorice and aniseed in the finish, with a citric tang. £50

This rested in bourbon barrels for almost 18 years until May 2013 when it was transferred to oloroso sherry hogsheads for a prolonged period of finishing. Big, waxy, warm leather notes on the nose, then dried fruit and machine oil. The palate is smooth, with cinnamon, cloves, sherry-soaked raisins, and dates. Spicy leather, plain chocolate, and slightly tannic oak in the very lengthy finish (1,800 bottles) £100

The latest Tullibardine vintage release to hit the States is another example of whisky distilled in 1993, but now bottled at 18 years of age. The initial nose features cut grass and sliced melon, with freshly-peeled tree bark. Intensifying sweetness with time. Quite rich and full on the palate, with cereal, soft fudge, and mild ginger. The finish is medium in length, insistently spicy, with oak and vanilla notes. 

This 20 year old expression of Tullibardine has been aged in first-fill bourbon barrels, like its younger stablemate Sovereign. Caramel, honey, cocoa, and a hint of linseed oil on the nose. The palate is creamy, with strawberries, warm milk chocolate, and allspice. Long and soft in the finish, which is reminiscent of choc-ice. At 20, this single malt has gained in richness and sophistication, with an extremely enticing flavor profile.

Consummately blended from more than 30 different whiskies, this has chewy Highland toffee, freshly-baked banana muffins, shelled walnuts, and faint chocolate orange notes. A smooth, full mouthful of blossoming orange, thick malt, heather honey, dabs of espresso, and milk chocolate. The malty Horlicks flavors prevail to the end with some attractive, shimmering spices. Note the higher strength here, though the 45% malt content is consistent across the range.

This expression of the triple-distilled Lowland single malt is a 14 year old single cask bottling, and just 314 bottles are available. Fresh pineapple and vanilla toffee on the fragrant, soft nose. The palate is lively and fruity, with lemon zest, caramel, a hint of black pepper, and then deeper fruit notes of ripe peach. The finish is quite lengthy, with lingering fruit flavors. £55

It's not often that the blended whisky section can be described as 'the group of death' but at most other times this whisky would shine. It's a very good whisky, rich in flavor and punching above its 40% ABV, mixing creamy vanilla, pureed peach and apricot, key lime pie, chocolate, and manuka honey to great effect. It's soft and rounded, with little obvious oak, and the finish is feather-light, with a slightly fruit sponge finale. £50

Rich and malty and, though it’ll look like I’m just reading the label, there is
chocolate here: chocolate brownie mix to be precise, with a raspberry sitting
on top. Bold and rich, with a nutty underpinning. Water makes it very fresh and
a little more hay-like. The palate is sweet and liquorous, with nougat,
macadamia, and a chewy mid-palate where that chocolate dribbles and melts.
Neat, it is slightly bitter; less so with water. Very sound. £53

The latest batch of single cask releases from Wemyss Malts includes this 22 year old expression of Glen Scotia, matured in a bourbon barrel that provided 304 bottles. The nose offers soft spices, orchard fruits, and a faint hint of ozone. Richly fruity on the palate, with mandarin oranges, vanilla, and a sprinkling of sea salt. The finish is gingery and warming, with light smoke, aniseed, and plain chocolate at the close. £100

The first batch of single cask releases from Wemyss Malts in 2015 includes this 1999 bottling from Aberfeldy. The hogshead yielded 379 bottles. The nose opens with overripe bananas, followed by peaches, gingerbread, treacle, subtle smokiness, and vanilla custard. The whisky really earns its sobriquet with a waxy mouthfeel and a little more smoke, ripe eating apples, and ginger on the palate. The spicy finish dries slowly to plain chocolate and aniseed. £88

The oldest bottling in Wemyss Malts’ March 2015 batch of six releases, Foraged Fruit Fool was aged in a bourbon barrel. Orchard fruits, double cream, vanilla, and ginger on the enticing nose. The palate is initially sweet and fruity, supple, becoming nuttier, with gentle spices. The finish is quite lengthy, with fruit bonbons, allspice, and prickly oak. (330 bottles) £120

From a refill sherry butt, this bottling of Glen Scotia was released in September 2015 as a 24 year old. Oily on the nose, with dirty sherry, ginger, chili, coconut, new leather, and cocoa. The palate is viscous with treacle, dark berries, licorice, and more chili. Gingery and drying in the finish, with white salt and developing black pepper. (737 bottles) £90

This Clynelish was matured in a refill hogshead and has been released as part of Wemyss Malts’ Single Cask Releases series. The nose yields light caramel, ozone, warm tweed, and soft ginger. Smooth and supple on the palate; soft spices, tangerines, and subtle, spicy oak. Chili notes on the relatively long finish. (341 bottles) £85

From Wemyss Malts’ Midsummer Single Cask Releases, this bottling from Blair Athol was distilled in 1991 and bottled in 2015. Soft, sweet fruits as the nose opens—principally juicy pears. This is backed up by malt and cinnamon. Very smooth and inviting on the palate, with honey, brittle toffee, gentle spices, darker malt, and walnuts. Slightly mouth-drying in the finish, with cocoa powder and lingering spice. (312 bottles) £115

The latest batch of single cask releases from Wemyss Malts includes Vanilla Summer. It is an unspecified Highland single malt, distilled in 1997, and the bourbon cask in which it was matured has yielded 263 bottles. Vanilla, buttercups, and violets on the nose, developing Bramley apples with peaches and cream. Background of mildly spicy malt. Sweet and floral on the palate, with tropical fruits, fudge, and ginger. Slowly drying with benevolent oak, but ultimately a lingering creaminess. £50 (Not available in the U.S.)

Imagine your nose hovering inches above well-dried peat, then throw in salted nuts, brittle toffee, and an intensification of vanilla pods. This feels more rounded and balanced than earlier bottlings and is the better for it. Warm, sweet caramel, juicy orange, and lime zest are shot through with peat, the rising smoke driving you back while pepper and ginger give close support. The most improved of the Wemyss three, but a bit more heft in the composition wouldn’t go amiss. £37

The youngest age statement Bull in the fold, this one has shredded citrus peel, fleshy grapefruit, candied orange peel, and lemon meringue pie. Soft fudge, honey, tart lemon, and buttery pastry with a nip of peppery spice under the tongue complete a satisfying combination. A delicious everyday kind of dram, and I preferred this expression’s brightness and attack of the flavors over the 12 year old.

More rounded, with greater depth when compared to the 8 year old offering. Not as medicinal and less sweet, more toffee and less honey, with more dried spice interwoven throughout. The herbs are still there, along with licorice root. Dry, burning-ember finish. Nicely balanced, which makes it my favorite of the three.

This 2016 release follows similar port and Madeira quarter cask-matured Kilchomans, with sauternes casks being pressed into service this time. The casks in question were sourced from Château d’Yquem and the whisky is 5 years old. Earthy peat, a savory note, vanilla, citrus fruit, and sweet wine on the nose, while the palate offers smoked haddock, tarry rope, and bonfire embers. The finish is relatively long, with fruity peat. (6,000 bottles)

Diageo is releasing five triple matured single malts, all exclusive to Friends of the Classic Malts and without age statements. Initial maturation was in refill casks, followed by a period in charred American oak hogsheads, and finally European oak refill casks. Sweet on the nose, with heather honey and gingerbread; slightly herbal. Resinous and waxy. Cloves, cinnamon, oak, and black pepper notes on the buttery palate. Medium length in the finish, with lingering cloves and freshly-sawn oak. £80

Young it certainly is. Precocious even, and a pallid-looking youth on first impression, but behind that bland exterior is freshness and life with a fragrance that is very un-Balmenach, all chilled Muscat grapes, melon, even some cucumber. This general perfumed zinginess continues on the tongue, though the weight of the distillate (Balmenach has worm tubs) anchors it well. It’s not about age — it’s about character. Enjoy. 

After 6 to 7 years of maturation in bourbon casks, this spent several months in chardonnay white wine casks. The nose offers resinous wine notes, melon, grapefruit, and a hint of vanilla. Nutty on the palate, with orchard fruits, more vanilla, and milk chocolate. Peaches and a slightly oily note in the finish, with apples, nutmeg, and a sprinkling of black pepper.

Highly approachable, with soft, earthy peat on the nose, plus pineapple, honey, and vanilla. Warm leather, ashy peat, ripe pears, and discreet vanilla notes on the palate. Slightly thinner than the unpeated Classic. Relatively long in the finish, with peppery peat and ultimately, aniseed.

After 6 to 7 years in a bourbon cask, this is finished for 9 to 12 months in oloroso casks. Sweet sherry, glacé cherries, butterscotch, and roses on the nose. Medium-bodied, with caramel, dark chocolate-cherry liqueur, and warming spices. The finish yields black currant, cough medicine, then allspice, and slowly drying oak.

One might assume this to be just a smoky version of the standard Famous Grouse (with its honeyed malt, bright fruit, and floral demeanor). But, in addition to the enhanced smoke (which caringly adds a new dimension without smothering the other flavors), there also seems to be more malt body and oak spice in the mix, which I think takes Black Grouse to a higher level than Famous Grouse. The grain whisky contributes a “drinkability” component, making it a great introduction to smoky whiskies.

The first Kilkerran “work in progress” bottling from Glengyle distillery appeared in 2009, and the ultimate aim is to bottle a 12 year old expression. For now, we have separate sherry butt-matured and bourbon barrel-matured expressions for 2013. The bourbon-aged variant offers vanilla, cinnamon, milk chocolate, ripe apples, and ultimately, slightly smoky mango notes on the nose. Spicy on the palate, with blood orange and a hint of peat smoke. The medium-length finish is drying, with a wisp of smoke. £38 

Here is Auchroisk at its more lifted and clean. A whiff of cooking lentils (a lovely smell) alongside lime and cottage cheese (again nice), it gives the impression of a healthy salad. The palate is sweet and quite buttery, with minimal attention from oak; instead it’s all very spring-like, with good mid-palate sweetness. Water dries it slightly, but also extends the palate. Quite lovely.

Speyburn’s entry level NAS single malt takes its name from the Gaelic term for “golden salmon” and was matured in bourbon casks. The nose is light and youthful, with malt, vanilla, and unripe apples, while the palate offers more malt and vanilla, plus dry, spicy oak. The finish is medium in length and grassy, with ginger and further dry oak.

Mature on the nose, mixing the tropical fruits of age with blanched almond. As it opens, you encounter Moscato grapes dusted with white pepper. Grows in sweetness. The palate continues this theme with the fruits (blueberry, raspberry, and pomegranate) typical of the distillery character, given a waxy coating by age. Unctuous and good. Water rather pulls the flesh from the bones, revealing its age, so leave well enough alone. (3,756 bottles)

This expression from Springbank Distillery is taking over from its highly regarded 12 year old sibling. It is unpeated, distilled three times, and matured in bourbon casks. It is non-chill filtered. The nose is gently floral, with pears, toffee, and soft oak, then emerging herbal tobacco notes. The palate is full and slightly oily, with cream, orchard fruits, cinnamon, and sea salt. The finish is long, with vanilla and cocoa powder.

The dark color shouts “sherried!” and the nose confirms. After an initial blast of marzipan there’s rosin, stewed Assam tea, some licorice, hard treacle toffee, truffle, and a charred element, all backed with an earthy undertow. The palate is tight and quite hot, with charred red pepper and a bosky, wooded note. Not a great fan of water — this is about that deep, fungal stuff — there’s an uplift of sweet dark fruits at the end, offering balance. £105

Now listen up class, it’s time for your next whisky lesson. Here the educational blend contains 20% very old single malt, which delivers a nose of citrus peel, honey, air-dried ham, and some spices in the background. Quite delicious, with orange, vanilla sponge, raisin, cremola foam assuaged by plain chocolate, and Black Forest gateau. This concoction is further tweaked three ways to complete Reference Series II. A truly great drink in its own right that makes learning fun again. £56

The strength is immediately apparent, though the nose has a curious mix of potato chips, tarragon, salt, and fizzy sherbet. The palate is more fruity, quite syrupy and sugary, with a lift of honeycomb and spicy ginger. It develops spiced orange notes, lime, soft summer fruits, vanilla, and Milka chocolate, encased in a thick, dense mouthfeel with nutmeg, dried peel, and powdered chocolate. A rumbustious dram at cask strength, but when tamed, it coaxes out ginger-sprinkled papaya and mango. (96 bottles) £89

Glentauchers distillery is another Chivas Brothers workhorse located deep in the Speyside countryside. Through the aromas of honey, caramel, and vanilla peek barley stalks, hard pears, and hints of Cadbury buttons. The flavor opens sweet, with red berries and Parma violets. Although this is intended to follow a lighter style, it’s very flavorsome, with creamy vanilla, poached pear, and dried apple. A juicy finish with fruitiness oozing from the cheeks.

Wow! A noticeable step up in quality than Ballantine’s Finest (see below) with a perceptibly higher malt content. After Eight mints, Rolo toffees, spring florals, clean and creamy, plus some wood combine to produce an appealing nose. One sip confirms that this is gorgeously honeyed, layered, thick, and creamy, with heather honey, sweet oak, and ripe fruits, especially orange and mango. The finish is short, drying, sweet, and the only weak spot in an otherwise decent composition.

With some powerhouse whiskies in the blend (including an '87 Bunnahabhain), it’s a surprise that the nose is so reserved, with citrus, ginger, and honey. On the palate you need your flavor shovel to unearth a core of typically strong flavors, including leather, oak, salt, dark chocolate, and even rancio. It’s delicious but highly elusive. The finish is medium and quite dry. What an odd blend. I haven’t had to work this hard for a blend in a long time. (U.S. only)

This breaks Blue Hanger ranks because it's a traditional blended whisky rather than a blend of just malts. Not that you see the joins. This is a rich, powerful, clean, and crisp whisky with a delightfully balanced flavor of pureed fruits and an unusual, almost menthol quality. Smoke wanders in and out to complete the experience. (The Whisky Shop exclusive.)

This veteran Old Malt Cask offering was distilled in Glen Mhor, Inverness during 1982. The early nose is very fruity, with Jelly Babies, then icing sugar and almonds come through, accompanied by supple malt. A good mouthfeel, with the fruitiness following on from the nose, joined by spicy toffee, a wisp of wood smoke, and old oak. The finish is medium to long, slightly resinous, and citric with a dash of cocoa and a hint of peat.  £115

The last eighteen months have been very good ones for blended and blended malt Scotch whisky. Shackleton and Compass Box set out in a fresh direction and there were top releases from the likes of Johnnie Walker and Blue Hanger. So quality brands from the likes of Grant’s have to rethink. This is well made, tasty, balanced, complex, and drinkable without water or a mixer. But shouldn’t a premium whisky justify a strength of 46% ABV? I think so. £50

Few single malt whiskies from the Speyside Distillery make it to the U.S. This noses like a gammon joint glazed with sliced orange and a side order of sugar mice. Hesitantly, a sip brings relief with dark chocolate, stewed rhubarb, strained raspberry juices, walnut, and burnt bakery goods. Dry finish with remnants of cocoa. Worth experimenting with water, as lovely candied peel and golden syrup notes peek out.

An aged island dram to mull over during the distillery’s lengthy closure for essential upgrades, this brims with lemon sherbet, summer fruits including cantaloupe, and Bartlett pears poached in cream. Tangy citrus balanced with ginger and peppery spice, cocoa notes, and black bun make for a lively mouthfeel. Creamy fudge and Jaffa cake rule once the spices die back. An enchantingly delicate orange sorbet flavor appears when diluted.

Lemon meringue pie, flaked almonds, cereal bars, almost porridge-like, enlivened by the tiniest pinch of allspice. A ferocious peppery intensity saves itself for the palate, where it tramples all over the lemon zest and apple flavors without mercy. Once the conquering spices call it a day, this is a sweeter concoction, with soft fudge, brown sugar, and blueberry muffin. In the finish, the allspice has the final word. (Batch 3; 162 bottles)

A delicious and inviting proposition, this offers heather honey on toast, marmalade, dark vanilla, and flapjack aromas. Soft on the palate, there are gingersnaps dipped in thick-cut marmalade and runny caramels, though the ginger flavor muscles its way to the fore eventually. Water promotes more candied peel, before a spearmint conclusion. This is really enjoyable whisky for those lucky enough to get their hands on it. (30 bottles) £50

Bottled by Ian Macleod Distillers from an undisclosed producer, this Islay single malt may well emanate from Ardbeg. The nose offers lemon, rock pools, peat ash, and smoky malt, with a sweet, honeyed floral note at its heart. Medium-bodied, with big citrus flavors, tingling spices, brine, ashy peat, and aniseed. Aniseed lingers in the finish, with diminishing spiciness.

Let me introduce you to infinity blending. 88 casks were blended and married in 88 casks for 6 months, then blended with another 88 casks. Half is bottled, and half retained at Strathisla’s Royal Salute vault for the next batch. The process is as fascinating as the whisky. Caramel, toffee, green apple, Jaffa orange, and vanilla pod aromas. Dark sweetness, fresh orange accents: polished, juicy, and thirst quenching, though the brilliance lies in the amaranthine finish. (Global Travel Retail only)

The Old Particular non-chill filtered single cask expression of Highland Park was distilled in November 1995, matured in a refill hogshead, and bottled in December 2013. The outturn was 322 bottles. Initially quite reticent on the nose, then toffee, cardboard, table salt, and very faint smoke. Quite viscous on the palate, and dry peat becomes relatively prominent, with allspice and sea salt. The finish offers licorice and lingering spices. £100

What would you expect from an 8 year old Laphroaig? Iodine, massive peat, aggression? Not here. Rather, there’s a soft marine sweetness akin to lobster thermidor, with hints of salinity and tarragon. It builds in heft, and smoke, but there is real balance. Complex already. The palate initially shows muted smoke, and is slightly medicinal, with balancing creaminess. Water shatters this idyll somewhat, as the phenols come out in full force. It depends what side you want. I’d grab some. £60

Rich gold. Here we have a good example of Bunna’ in full ‘welcome home to a warm house after a cold walk’ mode. Warm, sweet, steamy, with a light mineral note, dried fruit, walnut, and that giveaway gingerbread signature. The palate is clean, spicy, and drier than the nose suggests, but has a soft center. A lovely dram for a chill summer evening. £75

This Highland Park bottling appears in Douglas Laing’s prestigious XOP range, and after distillation in September 1994 the spirit in question was matured in a single refill hogshead (#10897) before bottling in September 2015. The outturn is just 228 bottles. Boiled fruit sweets and malt on the nose, with underlying sea salt and gentle, leathery smoke. Confident in the mouth, with allspice, honey, barley, and wood smoke. The finish is lengthy, with drying oak and peat. £155

A 27 year old offering from Glenturret, in Perthshire, this bottling is from a refill hogshead that was filled in December 1988. Fresh mango and ripe peaches on the early nose, followed by a slightly smoky, earthy note. Viscous on the palate, with orchard fruit notes, coconut, caramel, and nutmeg. Drying in the finish, with mildly tannic oak, black pepper, and a final flourish of citrus. (264 bottles) £110

Distilled in September 1995, and after 20 years maturing in a refill hogshead this Aberdeenshire single malt was bottled in February 2016. The nose is soft, with ginger, lots of floral notes, cinnamon, and vanilla. Sweet and malty on the mature palate, with banana, honey, milk chocolate, and cocoa, plus big cinnamon and nutmeg spice notes. Drying in the finish, with a drizzle of lemon juice and then black pepper. (254 bottles) £80

Buttery croissants, golden honey, peach stone, rye cracker bread, royal icing, vanilla essence, and dry oak. It’s sweet and sticky with icing sugar and yellow fruits before a scorching alcohol burn kicks in, lasting 30 seconds. It settles down to banana custard and vanilla, becoming tangy with candied peel, Turkish delight, and Edinburgh rock. The gum-tingling finish evaporates quickly. Careful—water disables the flavors all too easily, though adds some toasty spice and warmth. (192 bottles) £96

Can it really be six years since the distillery closed and they demolished the chimney stack? This nose has a much stronger grain character than the other two Old Particular releases, so one to try before you buy. Beach driftwood and toasted spice aromas, with flavors of warm butterscotch, mandarin, and peach on a peppery base, shuffling into dried fruits and muscovado sugar before a spicy nougat finish. This is hardcore. (K&L Wines exclusive, 243 bottles)

This cask strength whisky is malty in the nose, along with peach, nectarine, and subtle oak. The entry is all malt, the kind of flavor that evokes "malt reverence." In the mid-palate it’s cereal grains spiced with allspice and black pepper. The finish is long and slightly salty, with a fair amount of heat from the alcohol, and a touch of oak. If you love the singular flavor of malt, this one may be for you. (U.S. only)

An uplifting nose of golden honey, linseed oil, vanilla, sanded oak, and wheat biscuits on this west coast grain. Neat, it is mouth drenching. Banana and ripe fruits are followed by juicy orange before a snarling pepper onslaught ensnares the tip of the tongue, igniting a glowing ball of white heat underneath. You can bask in this experience for minutes with each sip. Water emphasizes the oak and mellows the dram to the flavor of almond-sprinkled custard. (180 bottles)

This single cask, cask-strength bottling was matured in a port hogshead. Slightly sharp on the initial nose, savory, and a touch vegetal. The palate is full and malty, offering creamy toffee, hazelnuts, ripe peaches, and ginger. Creaminess lasts through the cinnamon-spiced medium-length finish. (290 bottles)

Vanilla ice cream drizzled in caramel and speared with a couple of wafers. Ground hazelnut, faint dashes of cinnamon, and garam masala complete the nose. A brief opener of rich toffee and tangy citrus is overrun with a piquant, acidic rush and nippy alcohol flare. It’s actually light in texture, and a largely absorbing experience, ending on some dusty marshmallow notes, though never losing the tanginess. Water accentuates the tangerine and mandarin but negates the mallow candy flavors. (264 bottles)

Cask # 1013 from Edradour was filled on March 5th, 2002 and bottled on February 26th, 2014 at 11 years of age. It has not been chill filtered and is offered at natural color. The nose yields sultanas, cloves, and sherry, plus an earthy aroma and a hint of machine oil. The palate is silky, with sweet sherry, digestive biscuits, soft spices, dates, and figs. The finish is medium and fruity, with dark chocolate-covered candy. £42

The closed grain distillery niche is small, but Cambus rightly has its followers. The latest in a series of sequential cask releases from Signatory, this refill butt signals a grassy nose of green hay bales, tangerine, potting compost, white pepper, and almond-studded nougat. To drink, it’s like joyously biting into a tangerine marshmallow, to be rewarded with thick cloudy puffs of flavor with a peppery accompaniment.  Dabble with the water to reveal the delights of orange creamsicle pie. £65

A 1996 expression is the latest Clynelish to take its place in the Connoisseurs’ Choice lineup. Maturation occurred in refill sherry butts. Fruity on the nose, with ripe bananas, malt, dark toffee, lemongrass, and a splash of brine. Ultimately, a green, herbal note. Relatively full-bodied, creamy and slightly waxy on the palate; spicy sherry, Golden Delicious apples, and old leather. The finish is medium to long, with lingering ginger. £60

Independent bottler Gordon & MacPhail offers a variety of Balblair expressions, including a 1969 vintage and this 10 year old in their Distillery Labels series. Matured in a mixture of refill sherry hogsheads and first-fill bourbon barrels. The nose offers rich, warm fruits, vanilla, sherry, maraschino cherries, and ultimately toffee and orange blossom. Medium-bodied, sweet and fruity, with nutty milk chocolate, white pepper, and zesty spice. Slowly drying in the finish with licorice and light oak.

Sweet on the nose, with malt, stewed apple, apricots, sherry, and warm spices. Finally, caramel. Quite viscous in the mouth; the palate continues the sweet, malty, spicy theme. Ginger and soft fruits in the medium-length finish. Straightforward and very drinkable. Exclusively available to travelers at World Duty Free Group stores in selected airports throughout the UK and Spain. £46/liter

With a bottle shape that makes you want to go bowling, this blend has admirable balance between the fruit and the smoke on the nose. The bonfire smoke is matched with aromas of tarte tartin, pecan nut, red apple, and sultana. Smooth and molten in the mouth, it has more weight and body than its older brother. There is citrus, apples, and the late arrival of baked spices, cookie dough, and mint chocolate on the finish.

Light amber with that touch of acetone, along with marzipan, green apple, fruit blossom, and a runny caramel toffee/crème brûlée which adds width, while toasty oak and ginger biscuit give structure and spice. Again, a lovely, almost oily feel — it’s Dewar’s equivalent of Linkwood — balancing fragrance with surprising depth in the mouth. Water brings the oak into play and tightens the palate. (Travel Retail only) £125

This is bursting with barley, sweet oak, and all-butter shortbread. There are charcoal sticks too, which add a cool smoke note. The taste is like a warm hug on a cold morning; flavors of butter toffee, orange, poached pear, and ginger snaps, which combine to keep that deep smoke in balance. The harmony continues into the lengthy finish with flavors of citrus, melon, and ground ginger.

This wee, sleekit, cow’rin, tim’rous beastie is a blended malt of Highland whiskies from Douglas Laing, the latest of their regional recipes to join Scallywag and Big Peat. Perfumed soaps in muslin bags, dried sprigs of heather, beeswax, and Edinburgh rock give this an intriguing bouquet. Juicy: mandarins glow with green plums and Granny Smith apples. Ripe, yellow fruits and spices mid-palate conclude with sweet malt and fading creaminess sweeping around the gums. Distinctive and laudable. £39

Soft and floral with perfumed lavender soap, peach, green apple, and parma violets. It floats in the mouth, dispensing flavors of sweet apple, custard, tangy tangerine, hard candies, green plum, marshmallow, and white pepper. Delicious and accomplished, but there’s an overlap here: it feels like the NAS version had a birthday, rather than the arrival of a new member of the family. £35

Drawn from a pair of casks filled back in 1962, this brings out dried mango strips, white chocolate, melon, honeysuckle, and light vanilla with pepper and cumin around the fringes. Plenty to explore. Maple syrup flavors with plenty of thick tannins, but its vitality is intact. Darker, verging on bitter notes appear later on as it melds into rootsy, funky territory with burnt butter, deep vanilla, treacle, and spiced coffee. More wood with dry nuttiness on the finish. Leave off the water. £500

The stills ran cold in this lost Islay distillery at Ballygrant in the 1860s. Excitingly acrid smoke on the nose: like fireworks or the smoking muzzle of a rifle mingled with summer lemons and crunchy green pear. Poached pears in cream, greengages, and peppercorns meet a stealthy, sour gooseberry takeover. Fades to a chalky, sour fruit plateau before a chili heat finish.

Identifiably Caol Ila, with that light juniper note, lime, and very calm smoke. This sense of control continues as it opens very slowly into vanilla/cream with a little hint of salt, then fresh lychee. It is hot, so do water as this introduces a massively salty retro-nasal effect under which is this sweetly gentle mid-palate. Lovely balance.

Distilled in 1996 and bottled in June 2015 after maturing in sherry casks, this Cooper’s Choice expression of Ben Nevis yields an initially savory character, with ripe figs, treacle, and a hint of tar. Quite chewy in the mouth, with spicy toffee and cherries, which develop into more citric fruit over time. The finish is lengthy and warming, with a hint of oak and black coffee.

This refill butt has produced a perfumed and aromatic whisky with peach, green foliage, maize, a spritz of melon juice, and a pinch of ground cinnamon and nutmeg rubbed between the fingers. It’s zingy! Ginger sears the lips before the warmth of the ginger invades the mouth. The satin texture of honey and vanilla concludes with Spangles, before it enters a long, mouth-coating finish of sweet ginger. With water, soft, ripe fruit abounds; the ginger harmonizes rather than attacks. (282 bottles) £83

Distilled in 2009, so remember this is only 5 years old. At this stage there’s not a lot of cask, but there is an insanely intense smoky, herbal note like eucalyptus, celery, spruce, pine resin, then some angelica and a crisp mineral edge. The palate is balanced between this intensity, big smoke, and Bruichladdich’s typical oily, sweet core. Water doesn’t affect it one little bit. It is bold, it is proud, it is in charge. I like its sheer ballsiness. £110

Named after the warehouseman’s preferred piece of pilfering paraphernalia, the 125 year old Craigellachie Hotel’s Copper Dog bar now boasts its own whisky. It’s an appealing blend of eight Speyside malts, with honey, warm toast, pecan nut, apple turnover, fudge fingers, and orange peel. Vanilla, orange pith, wood spice, caramel, and fresh apple develop into creamy nougat. Takes a while to come into focus, then concludes with a spicy finish.

Matured for 6 to 8 years in bourbon casks before finishing in sherry casks. The early nose is earthy, with dough balls, then sweeter sherry notes emerge, with ripe tangerines and honey. Sweet sherry fills the full palate with black pepper and developing raisins. Plain chocolate, black pepper, and aniseed in the relatively long finish. Distillery not disclosed.

Nutty nose, with toasted oak, savory peppered meats, and traces of wood smoke. It starts off deceptively lightweight, with sweet juicy mandarin before a takeover of sharper citrus elements. Honey and gorgeous silky caramels slink by, chased by a gentle swish of spice. Light pepperiness with chocolate notes ushers in an aromatic finish. A tasty blend, but the nose will not be everyone’s choice.

The decline in the Spanish market has resulted in Cardhu becoming more widely available, which is A Good Thing as far as I am concerned. This is a grassy malt, which at 12 years also has a heightened citric spray of sweet orange zest and a gingery aspect (it’s great with ginger ale). Intense and vibrant with macadamia and a light heathery note, the palate confounds expectations, having a thick chewiness before the grass zings through, adding lift. 

One of two blended whiskies vying to be the official next Great King Street release, this is the peated version and it's gustier than the original, with less citrus and more peat. Indeed, it's impressively full-flavored, with peat in the driving seat and ginger cake, lime, and dark chocolate, biscuits and pepper in the mix. Best of all, unlike far too many Scotch whiskies this year, it doesn't use peat to hide immature spirit. £30

For the past few years, Famous Grouse vintage vatted malt has been produced but not sold here in the U.S. They were in the 10-12 year old age range. This version being introduced to the U.S. is a non-vintage expression, and I don’t think it really matters. What matters is its taste. Major components of The Famous Grouse blended whiskies have included The Macallan and Highland Park, and there’s no doubt these malts are providing some of the richness and flavor complexity in this new expression. The whisky is quite hefty, with notes of juicy fruit, toffee, almonds, heather, and a wisp of vanilla and smoke. It is also very well balanced and quite a bargain for $30. 

This has enticing flavors that will meet with the approval of the regular Grouse drinker: heady florals with fresh peach, light honey, pecan, and underlying caramel. The palate is soothing with vanilla and tangerine, hallmarks of Grouse, plus rosewater, almond, and whispering spices. Gently does it, that’s the key to this: kick back and relax. This showcases the Midas touch of Gordon Motion’s skills in liquid alchemy. A great value blend to boot. £22

I had to double check that price. My feelings are well recorded on premium whiskies bottled at 40% and if you were to ask me whether the whisky's worth the price tag, the answer's no. That doesn't make it a bad whisky, though; far from it. It has a light, dusty, and fruity nose reminiscent of raspberry sherbet, and on the palate there is trademark smoke, and pleasant toffee and treacle. Good, but in stellar company here. (Travel Retail only) Price is per liter.

A new oloroso-forward Chivas positioned to split between the 12 and 18 year olds? I got this. Refined and inviting nose of lemon pith, black fruits, and Kola Kubes. The velvety texture is wonderfully smooth, redolent of an apricot custard Danish, lime zest, raisin, currant, mixed peel, and walnut, with a growing bitter-lemon note. Quite unique finish, like sucking on lumpy Spanish lemons speckled with spices. (LA, NY, Miami, Chicago, Northern California, but will go national)

What lies beneath the surface of Dewar’s? Here, the blend is finished in virgin and first-fill bourbon casks especially charred, then scratched to enable deeper penetration. Thick wedge of vanilla and fudge with oaky accents, a dusty mouthfeel pulling in vanilla, light lemon, milk chocolate, and sweet toffee, ending on a cocoa powder note. Compared with regular White Label, this is less obviously sweet and creamy, adds complexity, and opens a bourbon connection. Certainly, this is up to scratch.

Vanilla laced with spice, fondant icing, grapefruit peel, and lime zest leave the vanilla and floral notes lower down the pecking order. In the mouth, grapefruit and orange dominate the vanilla, yet the mouthfeel is thinner and the acidity tips toward the taste of bitter orange seeds. A lingering bitter orange finish.

Honey, fudge, a little melon and white grape, dry roasted spices, and peppercorn, but noticeably less fruit than the age-statement varieties. The palate has pulpy white melon, lemon, lime, and some grapefruit acidity, before sweetening with honey. Quite tart at times, some peppery spice collaborates before the vanilla cream and green fruits take charge. A clean, juicy finish of lemon zest and mild spices coats the throat.

Delicate, yet nicely balanced. Notes of peaches and cream, meadow flowers, subtle berry fruits, soft vanilla, and light honey. Gentle, pleasing oak finish. Nice dovetailing of flavors and very drinkable. A good example of a lighter-style mature blend, and quite the antithesis of the Johnnie Walker Blue Anniversary bottling reviewed above. A pleasing warm weather scotch, or perhaps before dinner as an aperitif. 

Ardmore whiskies I’ve enjoyed in the past have been soothingly malty. Many have also been recognizably smoky, which is rare for a Speyside whisky. This one, aged in a first fill bourbon barrel, is true to its roots. It is a clean whisky, with a creamy, soothing maltiness throughout. The palate is entertained by notes of vanilla and honey, with anise, white pepper and a teasing smokiness. The thick maltiness and soft smokiness linger long on the finish. A very underrated whisky. 

Predominantly fruity -- the sherry cask is obvious, but it’s not heavy or dominant. Clean, bright orchard fruit blends in nicely with strawberry rhubarb pie, light toffee, dates, dark chocolate, and polished oak. Long, soothing, oily finish. Another solid effort from this young distillery.

Distilled in February 2000 and matured in a single refill hogshead, this example of Arran is part of the Provenance range which highlights the season of distillation on the bottle label. Malt, salt, milk chocolate, vanilla, and developing citrus notes on the fragrant nose. Quite full in the mouth, fruity and zesty, with a hint of grist. Long and softly spiced in the finish, with almonds and a final suggestion of aniseed. £40

Isle of Arran Distillers has introduced a second edition of its Orkney Bere expression, made with an ancient variety of barley still cultivated in the Orkney Islands and aged in bourbon barrels. It is a cask strength 10 year old variant, and 4,890 bottles are available. The nose is quite oily, with ripe peaches and pineapple cubes, plus developing floral notes. Viscous and sweet on the palate, with tangerines, caramel, and rich spices. The finish is lengthy, with coconut and milk chocolate-coated caramel.

Style: Lowland single malt scotch Color: Antique Gold Aroma: Dry but creamy, with notes of vanilla, marshmallow, honey, and tropical fruit (pineapple, coconut). Palate: Malty and creamy up front, with vanilla, marshmallow, and a hint of honey; briefly becoming fruity (again, the tropical fruits) before turning dry and oaky, with a big, long, dry finish (especially for a triple-distilled Lowlander). 
   General Comments: As I have written in the past, Lowland whiskies are known for maturing nicely at a younger age. But most people don't know that some (especially Auchentoshan) are delicious at older ages too. As mentioned in my 'From the Stills' column, older vintages of Auchentoshan are now only being offered to individual retailers, one cask at a time, and this is one of those casks. It is one of many 1966 vintage Auchentoshan whiskies I have enjoyed over the past 15 years. Auchentoshan, from a balance and complexity perspective, seems to be best in the 20-30 year old range. Still, having said this, this one holds up fairly well for its age. Price: approx. $150. Available exclusively at Park Avenue Liquors.

This 1998 vintage triple distilled Lowland Auchentoshan has been matured in fino sherry casks, which are rarely used for Scotch whisky maturation. The nose presents violets in fresh soil, honey, spice, developing citric fruit notes, and almonds. Quite full-bodied, fruity and zesty in the mouth. Lengthy in the finish, with spice, nuts, and oak. Becoming dry and gingery at the last. 

Auchentoshan Valinch is essentially a cask strength version of the popular Classic expression. It is named after the metal tube used to extract samples of spirit from the cask. A nose of tinned peaches in syrup, Madeira, cinnamon, newly-planed wood, coconut, and vanilla notes. Sweet and spicy on the creamy palate, with vanilla, honey, and praline. Oak and spice in the peach liqueur-like finish.

Part of Auchentoshan’s new travel retail line-up, Springwood carries no age statement, contains younger whiskies than Heartwood, and has been matured in 100 percent ex-bourbon wood. Acetone, tinned peaches in vanilla, and whipped cream on the floral nose. The palate is clean and fruity, initially citric, with emerging apricots in honey, and fresh spices. More spice in the finish, with focuses on milk chocolate, cinnamon, and a suggestion of Madeira.  €42

This is the second edition of Auchentoshan’s cask strength Valinch bottling, which carries no age statement and has been matured in first-fill bourbon casks. As with the previous Valinch expression, only 2,000 cases have been released globally. Very fragrant on the nose, with pears, applesauce, and vanilla fudge. Spice, cream, and lively Jaffa oranges on the palate. A touch of (not unpleasant) new make spirit comes through in the relatively lengthy finish.

Batch 2 runs to 295 bottles and, in common with the rest of the range, carries no age statement. Peaches in brandy, ginger, honey, and milk chocolate on the pleasingly floral nose. The palate is silky, with more floral notes, plus cedar, oak, and soft spices. Almonds and allspice in the medium length finish. £63/500 ml

Exclusive to the Travel Retail arena, this expression of Auchentoshan was aged for 14 years in a mix of bourbon and oloroso sherry casks. It is not chill-filtered prior to bottling. The nose yields polished oak, malt, milk chocolate, marzipan, figs, apricots, and ginger. Rich and full on the palate, spicy, with vanilla, mango, and finally Seville oranges. Medium to long in the finish, with almonds, soft oak, and warming spices.

A non-chill filtered bottling matured in a mixture of bourbon and red wine casks. The nose offers a big early orange hit, vanilla, and red wine notes. Smooth on the palate; more orange, black pepper, and spicy red wine.  The finish is relatively long and spicy, with bitter chocolate orange. (Travel Retail exclusive)

Here’s the older sibling to the 1997 vintage released in U.S. at the same time. It costs twice as much as the 1997 vintage, and guess what? I like the less expensive 1997 vintage better (because of its lovely balance and creamy texture). Still, this 1991 vintage is a nice whisky, rich with vanilla, coconut cream, citrus (orange, tangerine), pineapple, and sultana. A soothing, mouth-coating texture lingers, with some polished oak on the finish. 

Balblair has released two Travel Retail-exclusive variants of its 2004 vintage, matured in bourbon barrels and sherry casks respectively. The Sherry Matured version was aged in American and Spanish oak sherry butts. It is only available in Asia. Oriental spices, soft leather, and damsons on the nose. Milk chocolate-coated Turkish delight in time. The palate features lively spices, cooking apples, vanilla, medium-sweet sherry, and hazelnuts. Spices persist in the finish, with honey and raisins.

This Balblair vintage replaced the previous 1997 bottling, and maturation took place in a mix of bourbon barrels and sherry butts. The nose offers milk chocolate, candied ginger, caramel, honey, and musty oranges. Relatively dark fruits on the palate, with licorice, honey, and vanilla. A medium to long finish, spicy, with slight oakiness.

The newest release in Balvenie’s limited edition range, and the first venture back into smoke since the “Islay Cask” limited release several years ago. Some of this whisky was finished in a peated cask, some in new American oak. Both influences emerge with the smoke (jerky with a hint of kippers) and spice (cinnamon, vanilla, nutmeg) on a foundation of honeyed malt. Spicy, smoky finish. Balvenie is one of those big Speyside whiskies that can stand up to the smoke. This one will not appeal to everyone, but it makes for an interesting diversion. 

Here, the distillery character is more restrained, as if it is taking a period of calm reflection before the next evolution. There’s slightly more maltiness here and the texture has changed into a light acacia honey stickiness and a development of more oxidized notes, showing a gentle maturation. It’s one I kept going back to; teasing, slightly elusive, but rewarding. £1,300

An attempt to replicate the spirit produced at Ben Nevis in 1882. The malt is peated to around 30 ppm, and a first edition of 700 bottles with no age statement has been released. Initial starch on the nose, then buttery smoked haddock, a hint of chili, sherry, and gentle wood smoke. Full-bodied, spicy on the palate, with hazelnuts and peat. Stewed fruit and lingering spicy cigarette ash in the finish. £60

Sounds more like a disease than a whisky. A peated version of BenRiach, with the tarry smoke melding nicely with toffee, bramble, and rhubarb. Lingering earthy smoke on the finish and slightly tannic, with subtle fruit. Good mouthfeel on this one.

(Exclusive to Park Ave Liquors, New York, NY) A rich, clean, bright whisky, with aromas of honey, marshmallow, vanilla, and a mélange of fruit (orange, peaches, lemon, pineapple). Creamy in texture and richly flavored without being heavy or cloying. The various fruit notes dance on the palate and add complexity to the sweetness. Long, soothing finish. Great after dinner-given its considerable weight, but lively enough to have before dinner. 

This one stands out from the other three because of its port wood finishing. Dark amber/ruby color. You’ll discover lush fruit and a rich nuttiness on top of the typical flavors expressed in the 18 year old. Additional layers of intense spice and oak notes balance the whisky’s sweetness and fruit. The heartiest of the bunch. 

A new member of the core range, this has a cinnamon spice nose with wood smoke elements that grow into hickory as it opens. There’s also sandalwood, citrus, and dried fruits. Medium-bodied and juicy, there’s light sherried notes on the tongue, alongside perky acidity, especially with water. The smoke has better integration on the palate, allowing tangerine and sultana to come through. G&M’s aim has always been to make a classic pre-60s Speysider, and that’s achieved here.

Following on from the official 8 year old release of Bladnoch, distilled and matured under the current Raymond Armstrong regime, comes a 9 year old variant in the familiar distillery label series. It offers a spring-like nose of cereal, freshly-squeezed lemon juice, meadow flowers, and a hint of milky coffee. Spicy toffee, apples, honey, and ginger on the palate, which finishes with a floral note, lemon, apples, and lively oak. £40

This 12 year old example of Diageo’s Perthshire single malt has been matured in a sherry butt and features milk chocolate, malt, and digestive biscuits on the nose; becoming fruitier, notably with lemon curd. The palate is rich, sweet, and spicy, with barley, honey, and white grapes. Vanilla and spicy orange marmalade in the medium-length finish. £40

Every once in a while you get whisky where the palate is completely different than the nose. This is one of those whiskies. Aged in bourbon casks and 37 years old, its aroma expresses tropical fruits (similar to other older Bowmores), with papaya, lemon, mango, strawberry, coconut, and banana. This is balanced by vanilla, crème brûlée, honey, and just a wisp of smoke. Bowmore’s Islay roots are more expressive on the palate, which starts off sweet and slightly oily, quickly evolving to tropical fruit, damp oak, and then leafy smoke through to the finish. The sweetness emerges again towards the finish, with subtle brine and seaweed. (120 bottles for the U.S.) 

Amber color. Complex, exotic aromas of vanilla fudge, coconut, white chocolate, plum, cherry, citrus, and a hint of smoke and bourbon. Light to medium in body and delicate. On the palate, there’s a brief encounter of caramel and fruits mentioned above. After that, most of the flavors come from the wood-dry vanilla, mint, layered spicy oak notes, with some smoke emerging from time to time. Dry, oaky finish. 
Style: Islay single malt Scotch whisky. Price: approx. $1,500. Available at specialty retailers nationwide May 2003.
I am in love with the aroma-it’s so exotic and intriguing. I would pay just to smell this whisky. But the flavors on the palate are less exotic and more influenced by the wood.

Aged in a sherry cask, and the lush fruity notes add dimension and richness without masking the whisky’s other flavors. Its flavors are reminiscent of crumbled peat thrown over a campfire; damp earth, anise, and floral notes throughout, dovetailing with the lush sherried fruit. Smoky, briny finish. A well-rounded dram. 

This is quite a saline Bowmore, but there is sufficient sliced apple, cut flowers, and fragrant smoke to give some degree of complexity to the nose. With water you get crisp oak, roasted barley, a hint of nectarine, bison grass, and wet reeds. Starting lean in the mouth, it darkens slightly into brambles and a dusty smokiness before picking up a citric tang on the finish. Slightly muted, but well balanced. £60/500 ml

The mid-priced Fèis Ìle release took Bowmore off into darker than usual territory. The key here was how the cask (PX is, after all, as sweet a sherry as you can find) had been so well controlled. Rather than being a thick, sweet mess, a balance was struck between the two elements: the cask added density and raisined fruit, while the distillery gave aromatic smoke and orange, and both combine to layer on molasses, leather, and dark chocolate. A success. £100

The latest addition to Bowmore’s core range is presented at the unconventional age of 9 years. Matured predominantly in oloroso sherry casks, with some bourbon cask-aged spirit thrown into the mix. The result is a whisky featuring drinking chocolate, black pepper, and soft peat on the nose. Sherry and sweet peat notes merge nicely on the palate, with dates, plums, and light caramel. Smoky brine in the medium-length finish. £30

Quite fresh for 24 years old. Invigorating notes of brine, spice (especially pepper and mustard seed), tropical fruit, and vanilla malt, and an appetizing, lingering brine finish. Well-rounded, and a nice balance between youthful zing and maturity. My only wish is to see this bottled at a higher strength and not chill-filtered 

An interesting nose that’s somewhat akin to a peach cheesecake with slightly burnt pastry, or a heavily caramelized crème brûlée. Overt smoke is in check when neat. In the mouth, however, it comes through massively, mossy and oily and sitting on top of those fat fruits and sweet malt. Thicker and more farmyard-like than Port Charlotte. Great potential, with a sweetness that shows it’s pretty much there. £150

More mature peated Bunnahabhain Islay whiskies are emerging (like this one). Indeed, tarry, peat ash notes are evident throughout this one (especially on the finish!), along with nutty toffee, nougat, smoked olive, glazed ginger, and candied lime. Pretty even-keeled, not as medicinal and aggressive as its cousins on the southern end of the island. The smoke and layered sweet notes balance nicely. If you’re looking to ease your way into smoky Islay whiskies, this would be a good start. 

Pale gold, with nettles and green apple on the nose alongside almond, light bread crust, and freshly-baked sponge cake. In time, there’s Starburst sweets. Some heat, even at this relatively low strength. There are mineral accents and, with water, the signature ginger. The palate is very sweet and soft with jelly fruits. Clean and supple, especially with water. Zesty, with a refreshing acidic balance.

This is master blender Ian MacMillan’s interpretation of what Bunna’ would have tasted like when the distillery was founded in 1881. There’s light smoke, coming across like smoked halibut, a mineral edge, white fruits, and a freshness like a freshly starched shirt. Water brings out almond. On the palate, the smoke offers a slightly peppery, almost Talisker-esque kick. Light lemon and sweet fruits in the center. Though there’s no age statement, none of the whiskies are under 10 years. £46

An unusual Caol Ila, in that it was finished in a rum cask. The rum influence is subtle - which I like - and it offers a new dimension to the whisky without blunting that Caol Ila character we have come to either love or (for some of you) despise. Olives, seaweed, fire smoke, salt and pepper notes are wrapped up nicely in a malty/caramel blanket. Peppery, smoky finish that lingers on like the embers of an all-night bonfire. 

Caol Ila enthusiasts will be familiar with the tarry rope, seaweed, brine, and white pepper. All this is underpinned nicely by soft, sweeter notes of dark chocolate and vanilla nut truffle. Subtle underlying juniper, horehound, and mint adds intrigue. Nice oily texture with a pleasing dry finish. Time has tempered this Caol Ila, but it has aged gracefully. 

Light to medium in body (and quite pale in color), but quite invigorating. A flirtatious vanilla sweetness at the front of the palate quickly evolves into spicy, peppery, grassy notes. The whisky evolves further, expressing notes of smoke, tar, chewy seaweed, brine, feint green tea and olives. A persistent, if delicate, honey sweetness hangs on throughout to offer some gentility. Lingering, smoky finish. A raw whisky, but somehow compelling. An excellent value too! (Bottled exclusively for Binny's Beverage Depot.)

An interesting contrast to the Signatory bottling reviewed above. While expressing a similar fundamental flavor profile, this one is a more polished affair and not as daring. It is fuller in body, nicely rounded, and expresses a sweeter foundation (less honey, more toffee and caramel). 

Sweet, viscous, and weighty; much more so than its sister whisky (reviewed above) that was finished in Madeira casks. But the same Caol Ila DNA is here — tar, olive brine, pepper — along with fleshy red fruit and chocolate. Lingering ripe fruit and tar on the finish. Save this one for after dinner, or with a book at bedtime.

This 1992 vintage from Clynelish distillery is part of Diageo’s Distillers Edition range of ‘finished’ single malts, and it underwent a secondary period of maturation in oloroso seco casks prior to bottling. Sweet sherry, honey, and oranges on the nose, with a gentle note of rum and cloves. The palate initially offers vibrant sherry, sultana, and hazelnuts, with developing cloves, angelica, and spices. The finish is medium in length, with a mild note of enduring ginger. £45 (Not available in the U.S.)

Ahh, Clynelish. The enigma of the northeast coast. A single malt whose waxy character — and it does smell of snuffed candles — is highly prized by blenders. This is a palate whisky, the nose almost shy and muted: glints of citrus and jellied fruits, notes of ozone/spiciness and stem ginger. It’s on the tongue that it comes into its own: clinging, strangely savory, lightly sweet, juicily fruity. Enigmatic indeed.

Bright gold/straw color. Lively aroma of honey-drenched fruit (pineapple, red currant, citrus) with a rich malty foundation. Subtle floral notes in the background. Medium in body, but thick, almost mouth-coating in texture (a classic Dallas Dhu signature). Clean flavors on the palate-honey, interwoven fruit, vanilla, with a dry "polished oak" finish. 

The Spey Dram is made up of 36 percent whisky matured in ex-oloroso casks and 64 percent from American oak. The nose offers fresh oranges, brittle toffee, cream, and ginger. The nutty palate reveals fresh fruits, and is significantly spicier than the other Rivers expressions, with ginger and even chili notes. The finish is long and notably spicy, with less chocolate than in the three other Rivers variants, ending with a touch of treacle. £42 Currently not available in the U.S. 

This 1980 expression of The Dalmore Constellation has been solely matured in a Gonzales Byass Apostoles oloroso sherry butt. The resultant whisky is sweet on the nose, with dates, figs, milk chocolate-covered caramel, and finally a suggestion of eucalyptus. Briefly fruity on the palate, becoming bitter, with dark coffee notes. Long and spicy in the finish, with black pepper and licorice. Cask number 2140; 227 bottles. 

Distilled on June 20, 1999 and bottled in November 2013, this expression from the Perthshire distillery of Edradour was matured for 14 years in a sherry butt. The outturn was 687 bottles. The nose is notably sweet, with jammy aromas —strawberry and raspberry— while hazelnuts and walnuts lurk in the background. The same fruit and nut notes from the nose carry over, along with sultanas, candied peel, Jaffa orange, and spicy leather. The lengthy finish is viscous and gingery. £70

After eight no-age-statement releases of Edradour’s heavily-peated Ballechin, the brand finally comes of age as a core product. It is bottled at 10 years of age after maturing in a combination of bourbon barrels and oloroso sherry casks. Earthy peat and fragrant spices on the nose, old leather, and faint toffee. The palate initially offers very fruity peat, then newer leather, aniseed, and plain chocolate, with lingering fruity peatiness. More plain chocolate and ginger in the smoky, medium-length finish.

This expression was released to celebrate the Scottish feature film “Fairy Flag,” and after maturing for 8 years in bourbon barrels, the whisky then spent 7 years aging in oloroso sherry casks. Initially meaty with rich sherry, raisins, and cocoa powder, then increasing vanilla notes, plus warm leather and wood polish. Sweet and very spicy on the palate, with caramel, chili, and cinnamon. The finish is medium in length, with peppery plain chocolate. £65

This expression of Edradour was distilled in April 2006 and was the fifth batch to be matured in Barolo wine hogsheads. Fruity farmyard aromas, spice, then developing heather honey, soft oak, and caramel. Earthy fruit notes on the palate, with walnuts, malt, and pepper. Mildly mouth-drying in the medium-length finish, with aniseed and black pepper. (2,000 bottles) £50

Style: Speyside single malt scotch Color: Deep gold Aroma: Mature. Plenty of oak, but it’s clean. Coconut and citrus fruit. Background spices. Palate: Lovely balance and restrained woodiness for such an old whisky-the wood really doesn’t emerge until the end. Citrus and coconut up front wrapped in a blanket of malt, becoming dry and spicy, but not excessively so. Delicate, lingering oak finish. 

Thicker and fruitier than the entry level 10 year old, with greater mouthfeel and a drier finish. Orchard fruit (especially pear), kiwi, lime, and creamy vanilla, with suggestions of toasted coconut, hay, and marshmallow. Dry, gently spicy finish. A bit more involved than the 10 year old, but still with the same DNA. Very pleasant.

Glenisla was an experiment by the parent company-who only owned Speyside distilleries-to produce a smoky, "Islay-style" whisky at Glen Keith. It is quite smoky, but without the coastal characteristics (brine, seaweed). Instead, it displays notes of ripe barley, ginger, lemon peel, and licorice stick along with all that peat smoke. A rather straight-forward, uncomplicated, yet very pleasant smoky whisky. If only all the Speyside distilleries did this 30 years ago. 

Lemonade, hints of aniseed, and putty on the nose. Tropical fruits, spice, and milk chocolate on the palate. The finish is medium in length and spicy, with a hint of licorice. 

Nougat and a suggestion of fresh newsprint on the nose. Quite full-bodied, with a palate of mixed nuts and peaches in brandy. The finish is slightly waxy, with fruit and nut chocolate. 

Higher in strength than the standard Glen Scotia 10 year old, this heavily peated expression is part of the distillery’s Legends of Scotia series, and celebrates Campbeltown's historic Picture House. Just 6,000 bottles. Fruity peat on the nose, with lots of apricot and peach notes. Finally, fresh cigarette ash. Voluptuous in the mouth, and fruity, then sweet spice and drier peat notes develop. The finish is medium to long, with spicy tar. €70

This is the third single cask Distillery Edition cask strength. It was distilled in December 1996 and bottled as a 20 year old in April 2016. Coconut ice and vanilla fudge on the very sweet, confectionery-led nose, with a suggestion of salt in the background. Full and supple on the palate, with a big hit of ripe apples, then cinnamon and nutmeg. Very long in the finish with light black pepper. A Glen Scotia for those with a sweet tooth! (Distillery only bottling) £95

Nice malty foundation and soothingly creamy, with sweet notes (sticky toffee pudding, vanilla cream, caramel custard) integrating well with dry oak spice and fruit (peaches, blueberry, and currants).l Very easy-going and friendly. A very nice Glencadam and reasonably priced for its age. 

When I toured Glenfarclas in May 2008, George Grant told me that, while it is usually not their policy to stray from aging their whisky in sherry and bourbon oak casks, they have done some experimenting. One of these experiments, aged entirely in a port cask, has finally been bottled. The nice thing about Glenfarclas is that it is a rich spirit and can stand up to a good dose of port wine (or sherry for that matter). The port notes are lush, with ripe fruit (plum, red grape skin, caramelized apricot, prune) and dates complementing the whisky’s malty, maple syrup foundation. The 27 years also impart a good dose of polished oak for balance. Not as complex as other Glenfarclas whiskies of this age, but this is certainly a solid, enjoyable change of pace for Glenfarclas. (A Park Avenue Liquor exclusive.)

Brimming with distillery character. Gentle malty notes come through initially, accompanied by apple core and classic ‘Farclas weight. The alcohol, though high, is not obtrusive. In time there’s some orange marmalade, and this bittersweet element helps to add another layer of complexity. Water brings out toffeed depth. Even neat it isn’t too hot, showing heft rather than bludgeoning power. In time there’s black cherry, chocolate, and a hint of smoke. Highly recommended.

(A Park Avenue Liquors exclusive). Shimmering gold color. Lovely creamy texture. This creaminess comes through in its flavors too, binding to notes of vanilla, malt, shortbread, and delicate honey. Floral notes, citrus, red currants, and a wisp of peat provide contrast. An enjoyable, nicely polished dram from a distillery whose whisky is underappreciated-especially the older expressions. 

The latest release from Glen Garioch is a limited edition 1994 vintage, produced when the distillery still boasted working floor maltings, and is therefore more peaty than spirit subsequently distilled. Pear drops, vanilla, and developing caramel on the nose. Freshly-opened cigarette packets, and, in time, brown paper and vinegar. Quite dry and austere on the palate, with stem ginger and subtle smoke. Persistently spicy in the medium-length finish, with an elusive late flurry of smoky, chocolate caramel. 

The first Glen Garioch vintage to be exclusive to Travel Retail outlets and also the only one so far to post-date the closure of  their on-site floor maltings. This leads to a less peaty note in the spirit than in other vintages. Matured in first and second-fill bourbon casks. Tinned peaches in syrup and nougat on the nose. Sweet malt, heather honey, vanilla, restrained cinnamon, nutmeg, and ginger on the palate. Subtle oak notes in the lengthy finish. £50

Distilled in September 1995 and matured for 17 years in a refill hogshead, this bottling of the Aberdeenshire malt Glen Garioch
offers a nose of fresh peaches and vanilla, followed by a sprinkling of chili powder, and even a suggestion of boiled ham. Voluptuous in the mouth, with summer fruits, toffee apples, and a significant amount of ginger. The finish
dries quite rapidly, with fruity spices. £60

The Aberdeenshire distillery of Glen Garioch has released its first ever virgin oak-matured expression, which has employed heavily charred American oak barrels. According to master blender Rachel Barrie, “Glen Garioch’s intense flavor means it holds up well in a new fill cask.” Ripe peaches on the nose, spicy oak, vanilla, and more soft, floral notes in time. Malt, milk chocolate, nectarines, nougat, and mild cloves on the palate, while the finish is medium in length, with ginger and lively oak.

A 15 year malt selected by the Loch & K(e)y Society. Hard apple cider leads the nose and is backed by honeyed malt and cinnamon-baked pear. The entry is lush caramel apple, but quickly transitions as the sheer power and spice of the mid-palate comes crashing in with oak, ginger, and pine. The finish is long, dry, and spicy with lingering heat. This is the kind of big, bold, dry whisky that American whiskey drinkers might enjoy. (Julio’s Liquors only)

The entry level, no age statement expression of Glen Garioch, offered at an unusually high ABV for a single malt in this price range.  Grapefruit , lively spice, vanilla, malt, and black pepper on the nose. Milk chocolate, chili, cooking apples, and something slightly savory on the palate. Citrus fruits and lots of spice in the relatively lengthy finish. An unusual and pleasing dram for the money. £32

Torfa is apparently Old Norse for “turf” or “peat,” and this no age statement Glenglassaugh was made using malt peated to around 20 ppm phenols. Heathery peatiness on the early nose, with dried fruits, malt, and cream soda. Ultimately, leathery, mellow smoke. Sweet and lively on the palate, after an initial flavor of coal soot, with ripe peaches, chili, and ginger, backed by floral peat and a hint of ozone. Spicy peat smoke in the relatively long and fruity finish. £40

Deep gold color. Aromas of creamy vanilla, herbs, wood spice, and subtle fruit. Light and creamy in body. On the palate, this whisky starts out clean and sweet, with notes of vanilla and honey. It then turns dry with spicy, herbal, soft fruity notes, finishing on the dry side. 

Glengoyne’s entry-level 10 year old is the most readily available of their malts, and is made using entirely unpeated malt. The producers claim this helps to preserve “the essence of its flavor.” Fresh and well-rounded on the nose, with medium sweet aromas suggesting malt, oak, and a hint of sherry. Smooth and delicate on the palate, it is slightly oaky, with a suggestion of cooking apples. The finish is pleasingly long, with buttery, vanilla notes, slowly drying. 

Named in honor of the copper teapot from which distillery workers were ‘drammed’ until the 1970s, this distillery-exclusive bottling has been matured in first-fill oloroso sherry casks for an unspecified period. The nose is fruity and fragrant, with profound spicy sherry notes. Mouth-coating, with lots more sherry, plus prunes, drinking chocolate, and a little oak. Lingering in the finish, with drying sherry, light spice, and dark chocolate. A great dram for lovers of a true sherry monster! £60

Bottled in 2014, this expression of Glenkinchie was distilled in 2000 and finished in amontillado sherry casks. The amontillado gives a more rounded feel and greater profundity to the single malt. Peaches, apricots, almonds, and soft ginger on the nose, Smooth and balanced on the palate, gently spiced and nutty, with cherries, caramel, discreet sherry, and vanilla. The medium-length finish features vanilla and lingering, spicy Jaffa oranges, drying slowly to oak. £63

This is from a first fill American oak hoggie, and the extra time in cask has given it a classic mature Glenlivet character: a rich, complex mix of cooked apple, pine, and citrus, cut with rose petal. The fruitiness has moved from pear into baked apricot. Water adds an almond note. The scented notes have been retained (especially on the finish), but have deepened into sweet spice. The oak gives light grip. Have with chilled water on the side. £250 

As with the ‘Fiddich (reviewed in this issue), here’s a malt where an improved wood policy has brought a dram to life and added complexity. The Glenlivet has always been about lightness, but the trick is to have sufficient solid base to allow its flower to blossom, so as well as lily, orchid, and pineapple, there’s a thick creaminess that gently beds all of these flighty flavors down. With water, there’s mandarin and rose petal, and a sneeze of white pepper. Simply lovely. Value Pick

A very fragrant, fruity whisky (orange, tangerine, plum, nectarine) with interwoven notes of honeyed malt, toasted oak, vanilla, and subtle anise. I love the creamy, mouth-coating texture of this whisky and its soothing finish. All the vintages of Glenrothes that have been released over the years are worthy of your hard-earned money, and this one is no exception. There's not as much depth as some of the older, more mature expressions, but the lively youthfulness of this whisky makes up for it.

This 1984 Vintage is similar in profile to its older 1972 Vintage sibling (reviewed above), except that the 1972 Vintage expresses greater depth and has more oak to balance the sweetness (the sherry notes get a bit sappy in this 1984 expression). The 1972 Vintage also evolves more on the palate, and it is more intriguing. But don't let this keep you from trying this 1984 Vintage expression. It is still a very enjoyable whisky (and more economically priced).

One thing I enjoy about these vintage releases are the differences in personality from one vintage to the next. This 1998 vintage follows shortly after the 1994, and while that one was elegant and bright in personality, this 1998 is more viscous and heavier in weight. It shows bright fruit (lemon, caramelized pineapple, tangerine), honeyed vanilla, and marzipan with a peppering of cinnamon and ginger. Perhaps the 1994 as an aperitif, and the 1998 a digestif? The 1998 is not nearly as post-prandial as, say, the 1972 vintage, but it has more weight than the 1994 vintage. Still, if I had to choose between the 1994 and 1998, my nod goes to the 1994 for its elegance and drinkability.

Bold, with a slightly blunt entrance. The cask influence is to the fore, mixing rum and raisin with a slight yeasty/dough-like edge that sits alongside caramelized fruits. In time, there’s sweet draff, malt loaf (with butter), and the smell of old cupboards. It gets creamier with water. Medium-bodied with a light savory note in the middle that then drifts toward Brazil nut, and Assam tea. A solid performer. Bristol Milk sherry rather than old oloroso. £55

This 10 year old expression from the Perthshire distillery of Glenturret has replaced the 12 year old. Glenturret is at the heart of The Famous Grouse blend, and the distillery was re-branded as ‘The Famous Grouse Experience’ in 2002. Nutty and slightly oily on the nose, with barley and citrus fruits. Sweet and honeyed on the full, fruity palate, with a balancing note of oak. Medium length in the sweet finish. £31 (Not available in the U.S.)

Distilled in September 1994 and bottled at 18 years of age as part of Douglas Laing’s Old Malt Cask series, this Perthshire single malt displays a nose of malt loaf, tinned prunes, white pepper, and a suggestion of soy sauce on the nose. Finally, much more floral. Peppery on the palate, with citrus fruit, gunpowder tea, medium sherry, and cocoa powder. The powdery cocoa notes persist in the long, spicy, discreetly oaky finish.  £80

With only a 10 year old house bottling of Glenturret available, brand owners the Edrington Group have collaborated with independent bottler Hunter Laing to produce this ‘semi-official’ 26 year old expression, matured entirely in refill bourbon casks. Pineapple, dates, honey, and hard toffee on the floral nose. Full-bodied, waxy and chewy on the palate, with vanilla, ginger, cherry liqueur chocolates, and dark spices. Lengthy in the finish, with emerging bitter chocolate notes. £300

Aged initially in a refill sherry cask, and then in port casks. Layers of lush fruit (red raspberry, strawberry, currant, rhubarb, and ripe peach) with underlying toffee and pot still rum adding body and texture. Peat and brine peek through intermittently, particularly on the finish. The whisky is heavy on the fruit, but it is clean and not cloying. A very soothing whisky.

Unlike ‘house’ bottlings of Highland Park, all of which are aged in sherry casks, this expression in Douglas Laing’s Old Malt Cask series has been matured in former bourbon wood. It was distilled in September 1996. Sweet and fruity on the nose, with nougat and peanut butter, plus a slightly herbal note, and finally discreet, sweet peat smoke. Medium-bodied, citric, and spicy, with a little smoke. Smokiness turns to ash in the finish, with citrus fruit and caramel. £70

Pale straw. One of a seemingly never-ending stream of Imperials from Duncan Taylor, all of which show remarkable consistency and are rarely over-wooded, thereby allowing the distillery character to shine. Here are echoes of Loire Sauvignon Blanc — nettles, gooseberry, cut grass, fennel tops, and fresh herbs — with a hint of Imperial’s giveaway American cream soda softness. The palate is as soft as soy milk. Classic Imperial.£38

The name of this limited-edition bottling translates as ‘the lands around the rowan,’ and the component whisky has been matured in three, fresh-run American white oak hogsheads. Tinned peaches, a hint of smoke, and developing cream soda on the nose. Soft toffee and ultimately, chimney soot. The palate is full and fruity, with Brazil nuts, drying quite rapidly, with coriander notes. Dark chocolate and licorice characterize the finish. (500 bottles). £500

Exclusive to the Travel Retail arena, Jura Turas-Mara takes its name from the Gaelic for “long journey.” It has been matured in an array of casks sourced from America, Spain, France, and Portugal. Initially, green apples on the nose, then sweet fruit notes—jelly babies—plus coconut and fudge. A little linseed in the background. Vanilla, peaches, mango, and lively spices on the palate. The finish dries, with aniseed balls, becoming slightly powdery. €50

This Jura expression was distilled in 1984 and matured in bourbon casks for 22 years before a further 6 years in Gonzalez Byass Matusalem sherry butts and 2 years in Amoroso and Apostoles oloroso sherry casks. The nose opens with beef gravy, soon followed by prunes, cherries, dark chocolate, and PX sherry. Full-bodied, rich and sweet on the palate, with lively spices, and more cherries, and chocolate. Long and fruity in the finish, with spicy sherry and licorice. £750

Brought back as an annual limited edition to satisfy the cravings of those who like their peat full-on and never understood why Lagavulin moved to 16 years of age, this is the Kildalton coast single malt at its most boisterous. Aromatically, it blazes a seaweed-strewn, zigzag pathway between sea, shore, and land: bog myrtle and samphire, beach bonfire, sea spray, and melon before, with much-needed water, there’s slow-burning Latakia pipe tobacco and Lapsang Souchong tea. 

This is usually a bracing expression of Lagavulin and this year’s release doesn’t disappoint—smoldering peat, ozone freshness, but with greater sweetness than in 2011, though water shows how it is still just a little gawky. The palate is, yes, smoky, but there’s also light cereal, praline, violets, and seashore aromas aplenty. Fills the mouth with intensity. Okay, it’s edgy, but that’s what you expect.  

This is a venerable Lagavulin which immediately shows its age with a nose that mixes the savory (hoisin sauce) with the mature notes of dunnage warehouse, sandalwood, and a minty lift. In time, there’s bog myrtle, old attics, rain-moistened wool, and a smokiness akin to a dead briar pipe. Slightly dull to start, it perks up in the mid-palate with lanolin and black olive brine, and a Darjeeling-like grippiness. Interesting for sure, but past its best. (1,868 bottles).

Hard not to compare this to the 12 year old, as they are of similar strength and character. This is more about the peat bank rather than the shore, more eucalyptus than kelp. This pungent, earthy note is retained with water, alongside some brine. The palate is like carrageen moss pudding, with a touch of nutmeg at the end. Plenty there, but it all moves very quickly when I want it to linger. That said, a solid performer. £47/500 ml

A very laid-back start with the sweetness of the sherry cask bringing a fat, figgy, dried fruit aroma which initially suppresses the peat, only allowing a little pipe smoke and smoked meat to emerge. With water, there’s balsam, tar, dried seaweed, and fabric Band-Aid. This is repeated on the tongue, with dark fruits suddenly changing to spent kiln and bonfire ashes, but there needs to be more cohesion between the elements. £80

As pale as you'd expect, this year’s Special Release ‘limited’ bottling has a sweet, bready softness to it making it less angular than previous expressions. The smoke comes across very gently, allowing the sweet grassiness of the spirit the upper hand until water is added. The palate stirs in some emulsion paint, a pleasing lift of sulfur and anise, and gradually deepens. With water there are more smoke and marine notes.

This is the fourteenth 12 year old Lagavulin bottling in the series and was aged in refill American oak hogsheads. Vanilla and wood smoke on the early nose, then black pepper, lemon, marine aromas, and scented notes, with a hint of peaty yeast. Big, sweet, and direct on the smooth palate, with milk chocolate and black pepper, while the smoke keeps building. The finish is long and smoky, with persistent pepper. Diageo Special Releases 2016 bottling.

A nicely balanced Laphroaig, with a soothing malty sweetness layered in between the smoke, peat, tarry rope, and iodine. Underlying notes of vanilla bean, caramel custard, grist, anise, coconut, blueberry, and a dusting of cocoa add subtle complexity. 

Now you see it, now you don’t. Brought back like Frank Sinatra for last year’s 200th anniversary celebrations, here’s Laphroaig in gentle Islay sunset mode, all soft fruits and oils. There’s typical marine-like smokiness of course—particularly on the palate. I’d go neat with this to observe what is rather excellent balance. And snap it up, who knows when there will be another?

Distilled in May 1993, this bottling is of the Ledaig heavily-peated variant of Tobermory single malt. Aged for 19 years, it was ‘finished’ for 40 months in wine casks from the St-Joseph AOC in northern Rhône. Pickled beetroot, emerging caramel, and distant log-fire embers on the nose. Voluptuous and fruity, notably spicy—pepper and ginger—plus mulled wine notes. Quite lengthy in the finish, with lingering spice. Peatiness is most evident here. 2,200 bottles.  

This 18 year old variant of Ledaig from Tobermory distillery on Mull was released in spring 2015 and is finished in oloroso sherry casks. Old warm leather predominates on the early nose, with salt, pencil shavings, a suggestion of asphalt, and dried fruit. Big fruit and spicy peat notes on the robust palate, which features sherry and a sprinkling of brine. Drying slowly, with licorice and marginally tannic oak behind persistent smoke.

This is a 1978 veteran from the rebuilt Linkwood Distillery. The nose is slightly musty, even bitter, with sawdust and apple peel. The palate is sweet, with a suggestion of sherbet ‘fizz,’ elusive peatiness, and fruit spice, plus vanilla, walnuts, and ultimately, slightly grippy oak. Diageo Special Releases 2016. (6,114 bottles)

Online retailer TheWhiskyBarrel.com has released 60 bottles of 21 year old single malt from the now-lost Lowland distillery of Littlemill. Maturation has taken place in a sherry hogshead and cask #35 yielded 306 bottles, with the balance being held by whiskybroker.co.uk. The nose is rich and thick, with old sherry, caramel, and cinnamon, while the full palate boasts aniseed, pipe tobacco, and an effervescence that is unusual in a whisky of this age. The finish is lengthy, with drying sherry notes. 

The first Lowland single malt bottling to be made available in the U.S. by the Creative Whisky Co., this 24 year old cask strength, single cask bottling from the now-demolished Lowland distillery of Littlemill offers toffee, fresh pineapple, and sultanas on the pleasing nose. Voluptuous in the mouth; mellow, with vanilla, cocoa powder, and soft spice notes. Brazil nuts and old oak in the gingery finish. 

This is a distillery bottling from the now-demolished Lowland plant of Littlemill, near Glasgow, and the release consists of 4,550 bottles. There has been no chill filtration. Fresh pineapple and mango on the nose, inflated balloons, a hint of vanilla, and cocoa powder. Medium-bodied, with focused tropical fruits, ginger, and caramel. Lengthy in the finish, with gentle spice and milk chocolate-coated toffee. £130

This bottling of 1990 whisky from the demolished Littlemill Distillery was initially matured in ten American and European oak casks before being married and finished in first-fill oloroso sherry casks. Boiled fruit sweets, subtle vanilla, red apple peel, and cereal on the nose. The palate is rich, sweet, and full. Intense fruitiness, then fruit spices, hazelnuts, and some oak notes. Very long in the finish, with aniseed and plain chocolate. Mildly tannic at the last. Complex and satisfying. (1,500 bottles)

The stocks of the “new era” Longrow keep getting older (and better). A pleasingly sweet foundation of burnt caramel, vanilla fudge, and toffeed nuts is challenged by earthy peat, tar, damp barnyard, and brine. Earthy, smoky finish. A nice whisky with great potential, but still needs a few more years. 

Longmorn’s signature is a thick mouth-coating, honeyed maltiness, which is almost chewy in texture. While delicious in its teens, its personality lends itself to aging, because its maltiness provides a good counterpoint to the resinous dry oak notes which are usually imparted to older whiskies. This whisky is no exception. Notes of honey, vanilla malt, and subtle fruit dovetail nicely with the dry, resinous, polished leather-like contributions from 29 years in oak. Nice long finish. 

Style: Speyside single malt scotch Color: Walnut Aroma: Richly sherried and thick, with notes of nuts and toffee. Wood resins contribute spice and variety. Fruitcake at Christmas. Palate: Thick, chewy in texture, and quite ripe. Again the fruitcake. Very deep and mature with some underlying maltiness. Dry, spicy, oak notes fight off all that sherry and add balance and complexity. Long, soothing finish. 

Style: Speyside single malt scotch Color: Bright gold Aroma: Rose petals, lavender, vanilla, soft fruity esters. Palate: Creamy vanilla and a touch of honey up front, becoming gently fruity with a soft maltiness. Clean, delicately complex finish of polished oak and soft floral notes. 

Straw gold color. Aromas reminiscent of a bouquet of flowers, honey, soft fruit, and vanilla. Light to medium in body but mouth-coating. Honey, flowery fruit gum drop flavors, eventually turning dry and gently spicy, with a polished oak finish. 

Straw gold. Well rounded, with fresh vanilla, berries in cream, caramel custard, toasted oak, and gentle dried spice. A really nice everyday, anytime dram. The best price/quality ratio of the range.  (Price is per 1 litre). 

Light amber. A very clean, mealy, and creamy nose with real sweetness and a belt of vanilla before things settle into the realm of cooked fruits enlivened by masses of peppermint. The oak shows itself as hot sawdust and a little cedar. In the mouth, that sweetness continues to alternate between a prickly feel and sweet fruit syrups, while Macallan’s oily earthiness anchors it both on the tongue and to the distillery. 285 bottles.  

Matured in a bourbon cask. Thick and creamy, with mouth-coating vanilla, ripe barley, toasted marshmallow, vanilla wafer, key lime pie, golden delicious apple, lemongrass, and hay. The vanilla sweetness lingers to the finish, mixing with dried herbs and hay. I was expecting more from a carefully chosen Mortlach, given its pedigree, but this is still nice. (240 bottles) £250

Certainly not the best Mortlach I’ve tasted, but it’s a solid effort and at a good price for a 21 year old. Nicely balanced — Lorne Mackillop’s hallmark — and somewhat reserved, too (for a Mortlach), with intriguing lime, kiwi, caramel, floral notes (on the nose), nutty toffee (especially on the palate), soaked barley, and charcoal, with a rather syrupy, mouth-clinging texture toward the finish. Worth a look.

This expression has been matured entirely in bourbon casks and offers a fresh nose of ozone and lemon, becoming quite fragrant in time. More mouth-coating than might be expected, yet easy drinking, with milk chocolate, malt, tropical fruits, and an edge of sea salt. The finish is medium in length, with wood spices. £40/liter

Just 450 cases of this veteran expression from Old Pulteney have been released, offered in non-chill filtered format after maturation in a mixture of bourbon casks and Spanish oak sherry casks. Light fruit notes on the nose, notably tangerines, plus vanilla, lemon, and sea salt. Orchard fruits, spicy sherry, worn leather, and cocoa powder on the silky palate. Spicy and drying in the finish, with mild oak tannins.

A gentle, pleasant dram. Quite floral, too. Soft, creamy vanilla foundation with a hint of marshmallow. Underlying notes of cut grass and linseed oil add texture and intrigue. Rosebank is a classic Lowlander and, given that the distillery closed in 1993, younger expressions will become more difficult to find (not to mention more expensive). Here’s a good whisky at a fair price. 

The Glasgow-based independent bottler Douglas Laing & Co. Ltd. has been responsible for quite a number of releases from the ‘lost’ Lowland distillery of Rosebank, and this one was distilled during January 1990 and bottled in April 2012. The nose is pleasingly floral and fragrant, light and gently honeyed, with a suggestion of barley in the background. The palate features spicy, sweet orange, herbs, and a slightly contrasting note of citrus fruit. Spices persist into the warming, lightly-oaked finish. £135

A pleasure to drink, just like the 12 year old version that preceded it. A foundation of honeyed malt, with background vanilla, subtle cocoa, faint bourbon, salt, and diffuse spice on the palate. Light to medium in body, but fairly viscous in texture. However, a coastal freshness cuts through the viscosity, keeping the whisky lively. Some of the freshness of the previous 12 year old distillery bottling is sacrificed in exchange for more depth and fullness. It is neither better nor worse for this, just different. 

A soft, easy-going whisky with a foundation of honeyed vanilla, caramel custard, and mouth-coating maltiness. Floral and brine notes are sprinkled throughout, as are cocoa, white pepper, and subtle edible seaweed. Soft malt and brine finish. A whisky with a gentler personality when compared to most other island malts, making it a nice introduction to the style. I would, however, like to see this whisky bottled at a higher strength and not chill-filtered. I’d be more than willing to sacrifice some drinkability for greater intensity and more subtle nuances. Still, it is an enjoyable whisky, and enthusiasts of its predecessor -- Scapa 14 -- should also like it, albeit at a higher retail price.

Pale in color, with a gold/green tinge. Exotic fruit (papaya, coconut, kiwi) with gentle sweet notes (vanilla, honey, pancake syrup, marshmallow), spiced with fresh, appetizing brine and anise. The brine lingers on the finish, as do some molasses toffee notes. Dynamic and well-rounded. 

Aged in a re-charred sherry cask. Moderately rich and sweet on the nose and palate, but clean and not heavy. Light toffee, nougat, Brazil nuts, vanilla fudge, and honey-laced citrus fruit and golden raisin. Subtle brine accents throughout, with a soothing finish. (Bottled for Park Avenue Liquors.) 

There are still some casks of 1960s Springbank surfacing (even if most are from the independent bottlers). This one is a lighter, more delicate example of the genre. Exotic notes of tropical fruit, citrus, vanilla, linseed, and honey combine with a gentle, fresh brine tang and some background dried spice. The flavors are slightly muted, but this is not surprising given its age. (A Park Avenue Liquors Exclusive.) 

Named after a mythical hellhound that is said to stalk the area around Tomatin distillery, Cù Bòcan is lightly peated and matured in a combination of virgin oak, bourbon, and sherry casks. Just 60,000 liters are produced each year. Lemonade and coconut on the early nose, with developing almonds. Slightly earthy, with soft smoke. Rich, full mouthfeel, malt and honey, with the smoke more evident now, plus cinnamon and cloves. Nutty. Lingering oak and dry peat smoke in the finish.

The nose opens with savory notes. Richer, more fragrant and profound sherry than is present in the Fino or Manazanilla expressions. Full-bodied, with big, musty sherry notes and Seville oranges on the palate, plus lots of spice. Gum-tingling spices, with sultanas and dates in the finish.

Cù Bòcan is the lightly-peated variant of Tomatin single malt, and while most Cù Bòcan is matured in a combination of sherry, bourbon, and virgin oak casks, this expression was exclusively aged in virgin oak. Fragrant on the nose, with lemon, lanolin, vanilla, poached pears, and peppery rye notes. Rich spice and vanilla on the palate, zesty and warming, with apple pie, and caramel. The finish is medium in length, with spiced fresh oak. (Worldwide except U.S.) £50

The latest vintage expression of Tomatin’s peated Cù Bòcan was aged in a mix of bourbon and sherry casks. Fishy smoke on the nose, with ripe red apples, toffee, milk chocolate, and malt. Creamy mouthfeel; ripe pears in peat smoke, sweet spices. White pepper, plain chocolate, and a lick of licorice in the relatively long and lively finish. (11,400 bottles)

This whisky starts with the light and very drinkable bourbon oak-aged 1993 vintage from previous years and then is finished off in a sherry cask. The sherry is fresh and vibrant, and adds lush fruit, light dates, and nutty undertone to Tullibardine’s classic vanilla, honeyed malt, and grassy notes. Delicious!

Similar in personality to its younger standard 1993 and 1992 vintages -- soft and mellow, with fresh barley, vanilla cream puff, cut grass and hay, cookie dough, and a dusting of pencil shavings. The extra aging shows on the whisky’s dried spice and polished oak finish. More sophisticated than its younger siblings, although the younger vintages are more drinkable.

Tullibardine Aged Oak Edition carries no age statement, though it contains a blend of whisky more than 15 years old and spirit produced since the distillery reopened in 2003. It has been matured in former bourbon barrels. The nose exhibits barley, citrus fruits, pear drops, crystallized ginger, marzipan, and cocoa. Oily in the mouth and slightly earthy, with brazil nuts and developing vanilla fudge and lemon on the palate. Fruitiness persists through the spicy finish. 

The oldest expression in the Tullibardine lineup provides malt, cedar, stewed apples, and wood shavings on the nose. Mouth-coating, with orange and cocoa powder. Dries quite steadily, with oak lurking behind ripe bananas in the lengthy finish. Another very accomplished old Tullibardine, but the notably pleasing palate of the 20 year old just gives that bottling the edge. 

Distilled in 2004, The Murray was matured in first-fill bourbon barrels and is offered at cask strength, non-chill filtered. The nose opens with confident, sweet fruit notes—overripe bananas and peach slices—with background milky coffee. Rich and sweet on the palate, developing vanilla spices, chewy tropical fruits. The finish is long, with cinnamon, licorice, and oak tannins.

This vintage edition of Oban was distilled in 1999 and finished in montilla fino sherry casks, which lend a greater richness and complexity to the Oban house style without detracting from its essential characteristics. It was bottled in 2014. The nose is fragrant, with musky pineapple, and salted caramel. Silky on the palate, with Seville oranges, ginger nuts, and cloves, plus a faint suggestion of brine. Persistent orange and dry spice notes in the oaky, medium-length finish. £75

A rare bottling indeed, from this now defunct grain distillery. Very tropical, with a macaroon and vanilla cream foundation. Complementary notes of marshmallow, crème brulee, honey, and pineapple. Surprisingly vibrant for a 43 year old whisky and, while expressing sweeter notes, not at all cloying (the grain whisky aspects actually help here). Soothing and distinctive. Great price, too!

Consists of two whiskies: half 10 year old Clynelish (finished in Chateau Lafite casks) and half 10 year old Ben Nevis (finished in Grenache Blanc casks). The classic chewy, nutty toffee notes of Ben Nevis are prominent throughout, while Clynelish’s spicy, briny notes become more prominent mid-palate, peaking on the finish. The two work well together, with the brine and spice cutting through the thick toffee. Bright, berried fruit (from the finishing) adds an additional dimension prominently throughout. Some oak resin kicks in on the finish to keep the whisky from becoming too sappy sweet.

This “double malt” contains 70% 12 year old Dufftown (finished in a Zinfandel cask) and 30% 15 year old Mortlach (finished in a Callejo cask). This is a rich, fruity, gripping, broad-shouldered Speyside whisky. Richly sherried, with thick, layered sweetness as a foundation (honey, caramel, light toffee), along with ripe bramble, golden raisin, and pit fruit. Leather, tobacco-tinged, oak tannin finish.

Produced at Tullibardine distillery in 1989, this ex-bourbon hogshead has yielded 299 bottles. The expression lives up to its name with rum and raisin ice cream on the nose; floral, with glacé cherries, dried apricots, and pistachio nuts. More nuts and lots of spice on the palate, plus dark chocolate, dates, and prunes. The finish is medium in length, with spicy, benign oak. £85

One of the latest single cask bottlings (354 bottles) from Wemyss Malts specifically for the U.S., “A Day at the Coast” was sourced from the East Sutherland distillery of Clynelish. Ozone, warm sand, and wild grasses on the nose, plus a hint of honey, grated ginger, and a freshly-opened box of milk chocolates. The viscous palate features rock salt, white pepper, coconut, green apples, and a squeeze of lemon. Medium to long in the finish, softly citric, and salty.

This single cask variant of Glen Scotia has been matured in a sherry butt for 21 years, and the cask yielded 833 bottles. Fruity on the nose, with sultanas, cherries, marzipan, and milk chocolate. The palate showcases overripe oranges, sherry, and plain chocolate, with a tang of brine. Drying in the finish, with pepper, licorice, and subtle smoke. £110

One of the latest batch of single cask bottlings from Wemyss Malts is a 15 year old Clynelish, named ‘Fresh Fruit Sorbet.’ 331 bottles have been released. Tinned pears, new-mown hay, honey, and lemon sherbet on the nose, with a hint of machine oil. The palate is smooth and fruity, with pears, figs, and a suggestion of black pepper. The dominant fruitiness continues through the sugary finish, with a background prickle of spice. £60

One of four Spring 2013 single cask releases from Wemyss Malts, Fruit Bonbons was distilled at Glen Garioch in 1989 and bottled during 2012. The out-turn was 325 bottles. Homemade lemonade and a dash of table salt on the early nose, then heather, ginger, and finally the sweetness of icing sugar and fudge. Apples coated in cinnamon, nutmeg, caramel, and dark treacle on the palate. The finish dries, from apple pie to oak and plain chocolate. £90

One of the batches of spring 2013 single cask releases from the prolific Wemyss Malts, Candied Fruit is a 15 year old Auchentoshan, and 294 bottles are available. An aroma of sweet shops, vanilla, and white pepper on the nose, becoming maltier, with dates, sultanas, figs. Apples and pears on the light-ish palate, with coconut and ginger. The finish is fruity—spicy
satsumas—and finally, drying. £62

This 20 year old single cask release from the Perthshire distillery of Aberfeldy runs to 242 bottles, matured in a hogshead. Apricots, green apples, ginger, and icing sugar on the nose. Soft fruits, notably peaches, gingery oak, and more icing sugar on the palate. Milky coffee, caramel, and eucalyptus in the slightly oaky, medium-length finish. £90

This 25 year old single cask bottling of Glen Garioch from Wemyss was one of a dozen released in late 2014. The hogshead in which maturation took place yielded 357 bottles. The nose gives apple, banana, vanilla fudge, nutmeg, and soft spices. Creamy and nutty on the palate, with a squeeze of lemon, soft toffee, and milk chocolate. The finish is medium in length, spicy and nutty, with cocoa powder and just a suggestion of smoke. £87

This is the Lowlander among Wemyss Malts’ dozen single cask releases for the fall of 2014. Maturation took place in a bourbon barrel, which yielded 295 bottles. Tinned peaches in syrup, caramel, mild vanilla, and damp tweed on the nose. Medium-bodied and intensely fruity on the palate, with apricots, raspberries, and ginger. Fruit notes linger in the finish, with spicy milk chocolate. £70

Following on from another 1999 single cask Aberfeldy in the previous batch of Wemyss Malts’ releases, we have Toffee Tuile, matured in a hogshead. The nose is sweet and approachable, with tinned fruit cocktail, vanilla, malt, and fresh ginger. Tropical fruit, brittle toffee, hazelnuts, a hint of caramel, and more ginger on the nose. The finish is medium in length, fruity, and mildly spicy. (393 bottles) £88

Wemyss has picked up where The Easy Drinking Whisky Company left off a few years back and are selling their mix of malt whiskies under a descriptive flavor name. This is the best the company has done so far. It is a delightfully soft, fruity, and dessert-like whisky with, yes, lashings of honeyed malt to make it a soft, succulent treat of a whisky. Wemyss comes of age.  £36

Having previously appeared in 8 and 12 year old versions, Wemyss dropped the age statement from their easygoing honey-drenched dram. Fortunately, the nose of light honey, lavender, heather, and spring blossoms confirms that it’s business as usual. Melon, mango, passion fruit, and a deft touch of spice give this a sweet, fruity profile. Gentle heat persists into the finish with honeyed sweetness. It’s crying out for a perfect scoop of vanilla ice cream. Still a crowd pleaser. £37

Still in the same vein as its 17 year old sibling reviewed above, but it’s softer, mellower, with more wood impact (especially on the nose and back end of the palate) and tea leaves. Perhaps even some mild tobacco. Darker sugars in this one (molasses?) rather than honey, and more berried fruit along with the citrus, which struggles to reveal itself. Dry, resinous finish. An enjoyable dram, even if the wood outstays its welcome. But if you have to pick between the two expressions, go for the 17 year old and pocket the change with a smile on your face. Price: £75

This young distillery’s fourth release, aged entirely in bourbon barrels. (This is the first one available in the U.S.) The two previous releases that I tasted and reviewed (the inaugural release and the Autumn 2009 release) were finished in sherry casks. I miss the sherry, to be honest. I think it softened the whisky, added a new dimension, and perhaps even masked some of the youth. Still, this is a very nice effort: brisk, vibrant, and bracing, with plenty of raw peat smoke and tar, along with pear, citrus, vanilla, licorice root, bourbon barrel char, clove, bitter chocolate, and suggestions of olive brine and high-end mescal.

The annual (albeit limited) Loch Gorm release allows you to chart Kilchoman’s development in sherry casks. Here, first-fill and refill sherry casks (oloroso to be precise) were used. The latter seem to have more of a say, as the distillery character is more apparent: sweet fruit, marine smoke, and clementine, before the golden raisin from the cask develops. The palate is smokier and also more overtly sherried. A bolder style, but very well balanced. Limited, so get in there ASAP.

This 30 year old bottling from Teaninich was distilled in December 1982 and matured in a refill butt. Just 201 bottles have been released from cask #9323. The nose is characterized by lemon curd, flat Coca-Cola, and spicy malt. The palate is smooth, sweet and fruity, with vanilla and stem ginger. Autumn berries and more ginger figure in the lengthy, slightly charred finish. £195

This is finished for 8 months in tawny port pipes and is quite restrained on the early nose, opening up to reveal rose petals, milk chocolate, and double cream.  The palate is floral, with raisins  and red currants. Drying in the  finish, with peppery oak and  cinnamon.

Pale, with fresh perfumed/fragrant estery notes that touch on flower blossom, almond icing on a custard cake, and even a little candy floss. All very aromatically intense, with quite a hot focus on the tongue. With water you keep the concentration and add in lemon, jellied fruits, and light, dusty spiciness.

Distilled in 1990, this rare expression was matured in refill American oak hogsheads. Quite shy on the nose, even at cask strength. Ultimately, faintly floral notes, with pear drops, vanilla, and linseed. Very smooth on the palate, with soft fruity malt, vanilla, peach, and dark berries. Buttery mango and nutmeg in the finish. Diageo Special Releases 2016. (3,954 bottles)

This veteran Lowland Inverleven — distilled within the now decommissioned Dumbarton grain distillery complex — is a recent addition to Chivas Brothers’ Cask Strength Edition series, and is exclusively available at distillery visitor centers and from www.maltwhiskydistilleries.com. The nose is creamy, gentle, and sweet, with vanilla, rum raisin ice cream, and a subtle, contrasting peppery note. Mouth-coating, with citrus fruits and slowly developing dark chocolate, which lingers through the long and gingery finish. (500 bottles). Currently not available in the U.S. £275 

Okay, how many of you have walked past this one thinking the price is just too crazily low for the liquid to be any good? How many have started your whisky life with this and then set it aside? Time to rethink. Speyburn, one of the forgotten distilleries of Rothes, is a charmer. Sweet and fragrant with notes of blossom and a little red fruit on the nose, the palate shows ginger, cream, and rhubarb. (Value Pick)

With the majority of the blend coming from older single malts, this forms a counterpoint to I and II (see below). Toasted spices, fennel, black peppercorns, cocoa, malt loaf, split orange peels, and salted caramel invade the nose. The palate is a gluttony of chocolate. Beneath, look for dried fruits, macchiato, peanut shells, and some tannic bitterness as the older malts show their wares. It leaves a cocoa finish without the sweetness. A great concept for self-educating your palate. £106

That Boutique-y Whisky Company is an independent bottler noted for quirky and very contemporary label design. The whiskies carry no age statements. Springbank Batch 2 has an outturn of 450 numbered bottles. Initially, overripe pineapples and dry hay on the oily nose, cut by a sprinkling of salt. Brittle toffee, and finally, hand-rolling tobacco. The palate is very fruity; more pineapple, plus peach, developing peat, plenty of spice, and more tobacco. The finish is relatively long and slightly herbal. £58

Ebony colored whisky with dark aromas of dense fruitcake, fresh fig, Medjool dates, sultana, and Christmas spices of nutmeg, clove, and cinnamon, though a struck-match note lurks within. The treacle-thick palate has Coca-Cola, clove, aniseed, eucalyptus, sultanas, leather, blackcurrant, black cherry, dried fig, and raisin. The currant-bun finish is tannic and woody; tastebuds flinch and recoil. This is a grizzled old-timer best left to adventurous souls.

Have you ever noticed how some distilleries never appear under independent labels? They say they put a teaspoon of whisky from another distillery in each barrel; no longer a single malt. Whether they really do, who knows? So here is a blended malt with 99.99 percent of the whisky from one distillery. This has no peat and is sweet, honeyed, and rich, with vanilla, banana, lime sherbet, and tropical fruits. Almost certainly from Speyside…but where? £50

Nearly a quarter of a century since Cambus Distillery closed, select casks are still being bottled by the independents. Grapefruit peel, fruit teas, lemon zest, mixed spice, cardamom, and wild garlic make for an intriguing nose. A sweet taste of sugared almonds, lemon bonbons, strands of candied peel, bananas, and vanilla, before the spices stomp all over the sweetness. Hot, dry, spicy finish with just a lick of butterscotch.

This is a sharp dresser, with a firm, solid mouthfeel and an altogether finer and more focused taste than Shieldaig Classic (see
below). It’s not coastal or earthy particularly, either. Instead the flavors are softer and built around mocha, smooth creamy toffee, and some soft fruit, including a touch of overripe banana and melon notes. The savoriness this time comes from a touch of pepper rather than salt.

This is like listening to a quiet and understated musician and slowly starting to realize that there are all sorts of clever
nuances just beneath the surface. This evolves from a floral and welcoming nose, through a saline note and on to pepper and a Highland earthiness, but wrapped up in a rich, honeyed body. A nice balance between the ruggedness and sweet softness. All rather pleasant.

This blend delivers just enough peat turf to live up to the name, without alienating the peat phobics. A pleasant nose of chocolate hazelnut, pecan nut, dried tropical fruits, and gentle wood and peat smoke.  Orange, toffee, banoffee pie, Kola Kubes, and a little spiciness. Plenty of flavor even if the mouthfeel is a little thin. A short finish with a spicy flare and a few lingering smoky embers. (Total Wine exclusive) Price per 1.75 liter

This Dalmore single cask variant was distilled in October 1996 and filled into a refill hogshead, which yielded 139 bottles in January 2014. Freshly-mown hay, then marzipan and nectarines on the well-spiced nose. Nutty caramel in time. The palate features Terry’s chocolate orange, vanilla, and nutmeg. Citrus fruits and malt in the finish, with hazelnuts and a hint of oak. £90

Dailuaine is a fascinating distillery and this has a fascinating nose, as it shows a heavy sulfury new make entering maturity and starting to pick up extra weight from the cask. There’s a glimpse of sweetness, a little fruit, but the dominant character is a savory meatiness (beef stock cubes). The palate shows dried mint and masses of this meaty/sweet interplay. Is it commercial? Probably not, but it tells a really important story. I like it a lot. £45

Most of Auchroisk's malt goes into Diageo’s J&B blended, so a single malt release is an uncommon treat. Aged in refill sherry casks, this whisky has a nutty, roasted malt nose. On the palate it’s soft and lush, with honeyed roasted malt, walnut, ginger, and salt. A spicy mid-palate leads to a dry finish that abandons a lot of the flavors established. A solid mix of flavors, but the finish shows why it's often used for blending. (U.S. only)

A pale grain from the colossal Fife distillery, released at 18 years old as part of Signatory’s Vintage Single Grain Collection. Vanilla icing, digestive biscuits, pumpernickel, toasted coconut flakes, crushed cumin seed, and a background note of fresh mint are apparent. The vanilla and blossom honey flavors are in union with the buttery, lightweight texture, and there’s a pulsating spiciness that lives on in the finish. A refreshing alternative. £26

Offered in the ‘Distillery Labels’ series by Gordon & MacPhail, this expression from Wick’s Pulteney distillery hearkens back to the era when Gordon & MacPhail was its principal bottler, and 8 its standard age. Aged in refill bourbon barrels. Soft fruits, dried grass, and faint wood smoke on the nose. Smooth and nutty on the palate, with smoky spice, a sprinkling of salt, and ripe pears. The finish is medium in length, mildly peppered, nutty, and oaky.

Matured in refill bourbon barrels, this Tomatin is softly floral on the nose, with sweet fruit spices, pineapple, vanilla, and honey. The palate is fresh and fruity, with cream, milk chocolate, and nutty spice. Fruity to the end, notably ripe apples and red berries, plus more milk chocolate before slightly drying oak notes develop. £70

The nose is more reticent than that of its younger sibling, with less spice and succulent fruitiness. A hint of nougat, but overall, drier and ‘quieter.’ The palate is silky, with walnuts and allspice, while fruit notes are provided by plums. Following the overall theme here, the finish is also drier than that of the 16 year old variant, featuring a sprinkling of spicy cocoa powder. Relatively lengthy. Exclusively available to travelers at World Duty Free Group stores in selected airports throughout the UK and Spain. £90/liter

The sixth incarnation of Master of Malt’s cult blend of closed distillery whiskies contains Port Ellen, Brora, Mosstowie, Glenisla, Imperial, Caperdonich, and Glen Mhor with grain whisky from Port Dundas. Apples and sugar browning in a pan, smooth driftwood, and dairy fudge, but with the Glenisla it’s noticeably smokier than earlier batches. Sweet blancmange initially, before it soars to a tangy, spicy peak; the peat smoke backed by white pepper, ground ginger, peanuts, and florentines. Smokin’ liquid history. (534 bottles) £350

Aultmore is normally light and estery, and this pale dram is true to this. After a whiff of fresh turmeric, there’s an almost oily green note with William pear before acetone, and something akin to school Bunsen burners (a good smell) emerges. The palate is more coherent than the nose; sweet, rounded, and more substantial that you expect, with tinned pears in custard. Lively and charming; shows none of the firmness of youth suggested by the nose.

Remarkably rich color, indicative of a first-fill cask. A clean if hot nose with carpenter’s workbench, Comice pear, and lots of oak. Aultmore’s acidity comes through on the palate, with its zingy intensity cutting through the wood and achieving a certain balance. The palate shows a mix of fruit and wood sugars. Young certainly, but bottled at the right time given the intensity of the wood element. Water makes it more sappy and summery. Not hugely complex, but fun.

Green grapes, fresh apple, caramel, wood spices, cinnamon, nutmeg, and digestive biscuits show the freshness of this quarter-century dram. Before the alcohol grips, sweet corn flavors and acidic-citrus fruitiness present themselves (a North British characteristic). A pleasurable, thick-textured taste of cookie dough, lime, lemon, orange Jell-o, and oak spices. A sparkling citrus finish dances on the tip of the tongue. Water discharges the taste of artificial sweeteners, so buck up and take it as it comes. (K&L Wines Exclusive)

This North British has been led astray; well, subjected to three months’ confinement in first-fill oloroso sherry wood. Such are the ways of Darkness! There’s a savory nose of peppered filet, mustard seed, and tarragon. Interesting, but not to everyone’s taste. The creamy texture consists of evaporated milk, strong caramel, dark toffee, and black currant granola, though that savory character persists. Water pumps up the cream, raspberry, and cereal notes until it sees daylight, becoming almost a breakfast whisky. £70

A pale primrose of a dram. Waxed lemon, salted butter pats, white peach, honey, and the wood smoke from green stems. A sip brings Highland toffee, honey, chocolate fudge, rich tart fruits, with dried apple, raisin, mixed peel, and a late appearance of malt, pepper, and smoke. It wraps up with a glossy, clingy finish, but it’s short. Experimenting with water nudges peanut brittle, pralines, and fudge to the surface. Overall, a very decent drop.

Initially very ozonic, fresh, and marine. So much so that you don’t notice the smoke which is slowly building. Everything is very restrained, some cold-smoked fish, mineral, and—in time—a hint of the mash tun. That mineral note continues on the palate, which broadens into ginger nuts in the middle of the tongue. All very well-balanced, and at its best neat.

The impact given by secondary maturation in small (octave) sherry casks is what sets this range apart. Here, Glen Grant’s light fruits are given a darker twist, with some bodega notes, blackberry, and a surprising note of curry spices before milk chocolate develops; this is particularly apparent on the palate. The palate is gentle and quite creamy (cream sherry?) but it doesn’t like water. A pleasing dram. £99

A toasty and spicier interpretation of an 18 year old blend. Toffee, salted pecans, Dundee cake, and sultana aromas. A beautiful, thick texture replete with ripe red fruits, cardamom, fennel, and star anise. Caramels drift past on a river of spice, wreathed in a fine layer of smoke, then oak, mixed nuts, and cracker bread. The fruity sweetness is momentary and fleeting, leaving the front of the mouth loaded with spice.

It begins innocently enough. Ripening strawberries, cotton candy, and fudge on the nose, but with an undertow of devil-may-care spiciness. Soft mandarin citrus, vanilla fudge, sponge cupcakes, and a decent wedge of malt form the core of the palate; the spice is disappointingly mild considering the potential of the first sniff. Sweet and syrupy finish. Still, solid enough to make your world better at the end of a hard day.

Good to see Pittyvaich back in the Special Release roster. Here we have the heavy, nutty character of the distillery given full expression. The emphasis here is on a mix of nuts, cake mix, and dense fruits: even a little hint of cigarette tobacco. When neat, the palate has real density that is enlivened by water, which brings out fresher—and decidedly more green—notes. Worth a dram.

The blended malt in the series is drawn from select aged Highland single malt whiskies chosen by Stewart Laing. A luxuriant nose of rich, runny caramels, deliciously malty, and balanced with notes of dried apple, mixed peel, and pecan shells layered over warm spice. Smooth, with a light to medium body showing toffee apple, raisin, and caramel, tasting fatter with time and yielding pineapple notes. A finish of soft, sucked toffees and tingly spices. A top-class, well-executed drink.

As if making up for lost time, wee bottles of Kininvie are popping out every month. This is a fine demonstration of the distillery style which sits—appropriately enough—between the lightness of Glenfiddich and the fruity sweetness of Balvenie. Here, flowers are to the fore, along with creme anglaise, and a light herbal edge. There’s some weight to the palate, but very little oakiness. A perfumed finish akin to elderflower maintains the frothy floral aspect. A perfect spring dram. £120

Also distilled in 2009, this is mid-gold in color and medium weight, with a mass of sage-like smoke. More cask influence than 7.1, with smoked coconut, and again a mix of sweet fruits and lemon behind this smoky lead. Oily and rich, but a little fragmented on the tongue; the elements are beginning to cohere to produce integrated complexity. Octomore in mellow mood, with smoked chestnut and a little farmyardy Pinot note. Another positive work in progress report. £125

Overlook the fact that this bottle is saddled with one of the most impenetrable closures known to mankind. Unperturbed, this blend flaunts its big toffee aromas, whole almond, and floral top notes. With light fudge and gentle orange influences, it is smooth and rounded, top loaded with spice and hazelnut at the front of the mouth. More grain character and roasted spices show through on the finish.

This adheres to the rules laid down by blender Keith Law. The nose yields mint toffees, cereal notes, butterscotch, and whole peppercorn. Juicy orange, with elements of burnt orange, dark toffees, and a pleasant balance of sweetness form the palate, followed by a wave of peppery spices and late dashes of dates and sultana. The finish has more peppery spice and peppermint. Obey the Law.

Justerini & Brooks sold scotch in the U.S. before Prohibition. This light, Speyside-style blend has grassy notes, with crystalized lemon slices, Bramley apple peel, woodsmoke, and almonds. Light and sweet on the tongue, it unpacks lemon peel, satsuma, juicy watermelon, pepper, and aniseed. Grain whisky and herbal notes creep in late and permeate the finish.

Cardhu—for me, at least—means intensity, and this delivers precisely that, with masses of
citrus (bergamot and grapefruit) and just a hint of dark chocolate behind. With
water, there’s red apple and Victoria plum, while the mouth is precise, with
any richness cut with fresh acidity. Zesty and fresh on the finish. Try it in a
Bobby Burns. Released without any fanfare, here’s evidence that Cardhu’s
rebuilding its reputation nicely. £66

The second generation of The Spice Tree. (This new expression sports a much larger tree image on the front label.) While the first bottling used inner French oak staves to impart additional oak influence, this one uses French oak barrel heads. This new bottling is also bolder, displaying more oak -- there are more dried spice notes and it’s more viscous and clinging on the palate. (It’s also less elegant than the original bottling.) Notes of sticky toffee, vanilla fudge, bramble, and red currant give way to oak resin, cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, and subtle lemongrass. A tactile, somewhat resinous, polished leather finish wraps it up. A nice whisky, but I really enjoy the subtler, more elegant nature of the original bottling better.

How does this long-established blend shape up on its own without a ginger or soda mixer? Fresh apple juice, a twist of lemon, dried orange peel, peppercorn, cracker bread, and a vegetal spicy note. It gets into its stride with delicious apple, gentle fudge, and good-tempered spices, with cracked black pepper and a little sourness to finish. Mild, agreeably smooth, without any bombast or hullabaloo; it just blends in.

Double Cask matured. Fruitier, sweeter, and more straightforward than the new 16 year old. Ripe tangerine, orchard fruit, and caramel apples, all on a bed of nutty toffee. Underlying notes of cinnamon, nutmeg, and ginger, with a dusting of dark chocolate. After the sweetness fades away, there’s lingering spice and oak resin on the finish. A good alternative to Macallan 12 year old or Glenfarclas 12 year old.

Somehow this 12 year old—a mix of sherry and American oak—is overlooked by malt lovers heading straight to the mental world of a’Bunadh. This is Aberlour at a crucial point in its growth: you’ve lost the maltiness of the 10 year old, but there’s none of the heavy toffee and licorice of a’Bunadh or older expressions. Here it’s sweet fruits in charge: red apple, black currant, plum. The sherry has added depth, the American oak honey. Length and balance. 

Very sweet, with thick hard toffee, stewing dates and figs, molasses, and rum raisin ice cream, before some dark chocolate, dried mint, and orange peel. The palate is a different beast. It ignites on the tongue with a burst of dried pepper flakes, beneath which are cocktail bitters: gentian calamus. It begs for water, when out comes black currant jam (very Aberlour) and a little malt. Now it’s calm and hugely drinkable, and therefore even more dangerous.

Aberfeldy distillery has added a 16 year old expression to its core range, positioned between the existing 12 and 21 year old variants. This newcomer has been finished in oloroso sherry casks, and the result is a pleasing if undemanding dram with a fresh, sweet, sherried nose, featuring orange, honey, and ginger. Smooth on the palate, with more oranges, marzipan, then milk chocolate and gentle spices. Nutty spice, increasingly bitter orange, and dark chocolate in the finish. £62

This year’s Ardbeg Day bottling is named in tribute to World Cup host Brazil’s national colors: Auri (Gold) and Verdes (Green). Very restrained to start: grassy, sweet with vanilla pod, shoreline, and smoke wrapped in a woolen blanket. The palate shows more smoke, light chocolate, Ardbeg oiliness, and soot. It’s fresh and charming, but ultimately is a quarterfinalist beaten on penalties.

This is the second batch of Arran 12 year old in cask strength format, and it contains a higher percentage of sherry cask-matured whisky than the first. The out-turn is just over 13,000 bottles. Fresh and sweet on the nose after an initial note of resin, with oats and hot butter. Full-bodied, syrupy and sweet on the palate, with apricots, ripe bananas, nutmeg, and walnuts. The finish majors in plain chocolate, maraschino cherries, and a suggestion of smoky sherry. 

Arran first introduced its peated Machrie Moor variant some five years ago; since then it has become a firm favorite. Late 2014 saw the appearance of the first cask strength edition of Machrie Moor, limited to 6,000 bottles. Wood smoke, warm tar, and emerging new leather on the bold nose. Sweet peat and spices on the palate, barbecue sauce, and black pepper. Long in the finish: vanilla, with sweet smoke and chili.

Bottled in 2015, this expression from Arran distillery was matured in first-fill bourbon barrels. Ripe apple and tinned peaches on the early nose, icing sugar, a hint of mint, and soft toffee. Lively spices and pear drops on the palate, with vanilla and cocoa. The finish is medium in length, with a twist of lemon and cocoa powder.

Similar to the Classic in its tropical fruit and honeyed vanilla, but with more depth, emerging nuts, and dried spice. Thicker too—with a slightly oily texture. A noticeable improvement from the Classic. This 12 year old is worth the few extra bucks. It’s the most rounded and balanced of the three new whiskies.

The 11 year old triple distilled Lowland single malt in this bottling has been matured entirely in French oak casks that previously contained Bordeaux wine, then bottled at cask strength. The nose offers contrasting sweet and sour fruit notes, red grapes and gooseberries, damp newspaper, warm stone, and vanilla. Herbal, with cloves and spearmint. Mouth-coating, bittersweet on the palate, with molasses and — inevitably — red wine. Dark chocolate, raisins, and aniseed in the drying finish. 

Another recent addition to Aberdeenshire bottler Duncan Taylor’s Dimensions range, launched late last year. The nose is very fruity, with sliced peaches and apricots, plus a porridge-like background note. Relatively full bodied and malty, with intense fruit notes, then dark spices appear. The finish is medium in length, spicy with aniseed balls, then a lingering creaminess at the very end. £42

Morrison Bowmore distillers has recently released a virgin oak-matured expression of its Auchentoshan single malt, which has no age statement. The North American oak casks have been charred prior to receiving this Lowland whisky as their first fillings. The result is a nose of Madeira, cinnamon, vanilla, and white pepper. Very spicy on the palate, with citrus fruits and plain chocolate. Lingering in the finish, with cocoa powder, icing sugar; becoming slightly more bitter with time.

Light to medium in body, but quite flavorful. Firm spice notes and subtle brine (both of which are often found in Northern Highland malts) makes the whisky fresh and quite lively. There’s a soothing, mouth-coating, toffee sweetness providing balance and depth. This is the first distillery bottling of Balblair available here in the U.S. in a long time, and it is very welcomed. 

The third and final release of the 1989 vintage of Northern Highland malt Balblair is on sale in Europe initially, with U.S. availability (at approximately $95) this fall. Initially quite reticent on the nose, with a hint of potato chips, mild vanilla, lemon, and unripe bananas. Full and rounded on the palate; nutty, with tropical fruits and lively spice. Medium length in the finish, with apricots, instant coffee, and milky cocoa.  £60

This 2002 expression of Balblair replaces the previous 2001 vintage as the ‘entry level’ bottling. It is naturally colored and non-chill filtered, in line with the rest of the Balblair range, and has been matured in bourbon barrels. Fizzy lemonade, banana skins, and violets on the nose, with soft caramel developing in time. Fruit and nut milk chocolate on the palate, with ripe apples and vanilla. Long, floral, and lively in the finish. £40

Balblair’s 1996 vintage expression replaces the previous 1995 variant as a travel retail-exclusive bottling, and maturation has taken place in bourbon casks. Ginger snaps, peaches, pineapple, and vanilla on the relatively light, fresh nose, which also has just a wisp of smoke in the background. Medium-bodied, the palate offers soft toffee, milk chocolate, spices, and the same fruit notes as the nose. The finish is quite lengthy, with a final flourish of black pepper. Price is per one liter.

Big sherry influence immediately, with walnut skin, raisin bread, and mixed peels. Seems pretty dry, and the malty undertow here is whole grain bread. Balvenie’s signature sweetness comes across like soft brown Demerara sugar before it shifts into forest floor, mulch, nut, and dried berries. Just enough residual sweetness to keep the tannins at bay. Water makes it more woody, with burlap, cacao, a little earthiness, and a slightly bitter exit.

The mix of honey, citrus, fruit, and malt which sits at Balvenie’s core is beginning to deepen. The citrus fruits, for example, are becoming concentrated, the honey is set clover, the fruits moving into cooked apricot and banana. Rounded and thick in the mouth, where the honeyed aspects and fleshiness of the fruits take control, before a bloom of bridal bouquet. Tremendously complex, here’s Balvenie's flowering into mid-period maturity. The price is…scary! £700

Finished in a pedro ximinez cask. This is the sweetest and most tactile of the three whiskies. Peat smoke married with lush notes of sultana, ripe peaches, pineapple, white chocolate, shortbread, and thick honey. Delicate floral notes (heather, lavender) add finesse. I expected a darker personality with the sherry finish. I was pleasantly surprised. 

Deeper and darker in character than the BenRiach 25 year old also reviewed here, with more sherry character. Chewy toffee, nougat, and rum infused with raisin provide the foundation of this whisky. Background notes of cinnamon, baker’s chocolate, and a suggestion of wet leather and old parchment add intrigue. 

A peated version of Benriach that was also finished in a port pipe. There is a really nice blend of flavors here; a sweet malty foundation layered with ripe red fruit notes (raspberry, strawberry preserve, currant) and a firm blanket of smoke that goes on and on. All the flavors are bold, but they’re equally balanced. Not a subtle whisky but quite entertaining. (A Binny’s Beverage Depot exclusive.) 

This peated expression was matured in quarter casks and is the first bottling to be launched since BenRiach was acquired by Brown-Forman in April 2016. The nose offers sweet peat and new leather, coal, and a hint of iodine. White pepper and big peat notes on the palate. Ripe apples develop and spices spread around the mouth. The finish is medium in length, warming, and gently smoky. £65

What you look for in a finished whisky is for some of the distillery's character to be apparent, but also enhanced. Benrinnes is a big, meaty dram, which suits sherry and its feral aspect is there. Think of roast beef with damson jam, date, and blackberry. The palate is thick with licorice sweetness and a bitter edge. It has power, and while you can see the join between original spirit and finish, it’s a pretty happy match. £60/500 ml

Meaty, beaty, big, but only slightly bouncy. The nose is initially reminiscent of curried mutton with an added heathery earthiness and some distillery sulfur. It then dries into biltong/pemmican with some faint barley notes behind. The water adds a note of fresh coriander. Massive in the mouth, with raisin, roasting tins. It’s a relief when water releases some surprisingly soft treacle toffee sweetness, but it’s not quite enough to balance the massive meaty assault. (2,892 bottles)

The oldest of the group, and it shows. When compared to younger expressions, there’s less peaches and more citrus (lemon, tangerine). It is thicker on the palate-with notes of fat barley and crème brulee-before dry, resinous oak notes intensify. Dry, spicy finish. Not as even-keeled as younger expressions, but quite dynamic. 

The newest member of the ever-expanding range hailing from Gordon & MacPhail’s own distillery in Forres. This example has been aged in port pipes — and it shows immediately on the nose. Benromach is a teasing mid-weight Speysider, and this has added depth of sweet damson jam-like aromas mixed with Seville orange (marmalade) and some milky nut. Rich fruitcake flavors on the tongue. This is a very well balanced and precocious 12 year old. Worth a look. 

Initially matured in bourbon barrels for 6 years, the spirit was then aged for a further 31 months in wine casks from the Hermitage Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée. Soft on the nose, with fresh red berries, oiled leather, cinnamon, and a hint of smoke. Rich, slightly smoky cherry and berry notes on the palate, plus milk chocolate and lively spices. Initially fruity, then drying in the finish with wood smoke and light tannins.

Pale gold color. Aromas reminiscent of a holiday spice cake-ginger, cinnamon, honey, and a touch of citrus fruit. Medium bodied, but it coats the palate-there's some viscosity here. The flavors are rather soothing and very much like its aroma, with a malty sweetness throughout and a lingering finish.
   Style: Highland single malt Scotch whisky. Price: high $80s. Limited availability. 
   The owners of Blair Athol have chosen not to export this whisky to the U.S. For this reason it can be rather difficult to find, only occasionally being imported by one of the independent bottlers. This particular expression is a very good example from this distillery.

This distillery-only bottling strips away the sweet gloopiness of the standard 12 year old — and is all the better for that. The nose is soft and gentle, with rose petals and rose hips over a base of ripe plum and a touch of ginger cake. The palate is intriguing and holds the attention, with citrus fruits, bitter apple, spice, and a touch of peppermint. It is all very clean, sophisticated, and pleasant. The finish is long and warming, and the overall experience is highly enjoyable. Justified as a distillery-only bottling? Without a doubt. 

New to Duncan Taylor’s Dimensions range is this single cask (#2927), cask strength offering from Perthshire’s Blair Athol distillery. Sweet and fruity on the nose, majoring in tinned pineapple in syrup. Toffee, nougat, and a hint of freshly-dug soil make up the supporting aromatic cast. Full bodied and initially as sweet in the mouth as it was on the nose, with vigorous spices, particularly nutmeg, then it begins to dry. The long finish is characterized by powdery cocoa and oak tannins. £80

There have been some legendary Hart Brothers bottlings of Bowmore (the 1966 bottled in ’74 is a classic) so this has a lot to live up to. The nose is creamy and discreet, but Bowmore is less about charging out wreathed in smoke and more a dram where peat is part of the totality. Here you get seashells and low-tide aromas, along with green banana. The palate is gently smoked with light barley, cool melon. An afternoon dram. £50

Sadly, the final chapter in a series which deservedly acquired cult status because of the way it showed how well Bowmore behaved in close proximity to sherry casks. This was aged in oloroso and PX and has a thick, dark nose, all dried black fruits and saddlebags. The smoke is sotto voce. The savory nature continues on the palate. It needs water to bring out fresh fruits, and while there’s a bitterness on the end, that’s a minor cavil. £190

This vatting of three virgin oak casks and one oloroso butt was so keenly priced that it sold out in seconds, all 1,500 bottles of it. It shows Bowmore, that ever-changing, elusive Islay dram in perfumed, scented mode. I picked up vetiver (an integral part of classic male cologne), but also peach, some flamed peels, and plenty of smoke. The palate dips into the sea for a second, then again becomes scented, alongside gentle chocolate. Amazing price too. £55

Aged in bourbon casks and then enhanced in Rioja wine casks. A mélange of red berry fruits, firm malt, thick vanilla and spicy oak, along with a hint of grape skin, anise, and orange peel. Gritty, dry finish. 

Aged in refill sherry casks. One taste bears this out with its dominant honeyed fruit foundation (lemons, melons, pineapple). Still, that Bruichladdich freshness and appetizing "sea breeze" character dovetails nicely. Fuller, more rounded, and with a bit more going on here than the Full Strength expression reviewed below, but not as appetizing. 

Aged in used bourbon barrels. A fresh, appetizing whisky of brine and white pepper, with an underlying foundation of vanilla, barley, and grassy/hay-like notes. A very subtle teasing of citrus lingers throughout. Very clean and straight-forward, with an appetizing finish. A whisky aperitif? 

It is unusual to find a Bruichladdich whisky with this much sherry influence-this one is aged in a refill sherry hogshead. I must admit that I generally like a less sherried Bruichladdich-it makes it easier to appreciate the distillery's subtle complexities. While there certainly is more than enough sherry to go around in this whisky, the distillery character does manage to fight its way through. This whisky's strong point is that the sherry influence is clean and not insipid like some sherried whiskies. Chewy caramel, toffee, and ripe fruit notes are most evident in this whisky, with Bruichladdich's signature-an appetizing fresh briny character-emerging midway on the palate through to the finish. If you like Bruichladdich and you appreciate a cleanly sherried whisky, then I think you'll enjoy this one.

Fruit is the common thread to this lightly peated whisky; red fruit, that is. Red raspberry, red currant, red seedless grape, strawberry, and red apple. A gentle sweetness (creamy vanilla, light molasses) balances all this fruit. Not overly contemplative, but delightful. This is definitely  not the same Rocks I reviewed two years ago. It is richer, darker in color, and tastes more mature. It's an improved version, and my rating reflects this.

Since its reopening eleven years ago this year, Bruichladdich has been growing barley on Islay—a laudable move. This glimpse into the developing program shows what seems initially to be a delicately fragile dram that soon reveals an intense sweet depth behind the spring flowers. This purity of intent continues on the palate with a thick creaminess that’s typical of the distillery, while a tart finish adds interest. Precocious, but already beautifully balanced.£38

More from Bruichladdich. The latest in the Elements series is clean in a freshly-showered kind of fashion. The fact that it’s backed up with bran, agave syrup, and pancake batter just helps to emphasize this image of a sunlit breakfast. The palate is sweet, fat, and juicy, typical of how texture is as important as flavor with the Laddie. In time there’s some cinnamon with a preserved lemon acidity that enlivens the finish. £55 (500 ml)

Some single malts just suit specific cask types. Such is the case with Bunnahabhain and sherry. The spirit has a soft and nutty undertow, plus a gingery note that is given weight and depth by the cask. Amontillado, with its nuttier character, is an ideal bridge between the two. This shows surprising maturity with more oxidized and mulch aromas alongside coffee grounds, and a character that’s drifting into meaty. Brooding, medium-bodied, slightly dry…but the price? Ouch! (Fèis Ìle 2016, 250 bottles) £250

Without water, this is an aggressive malt, sharp and acerbic. With water, it’s still more in your face than any official bottling. Where you tend to associate Caol Ila with oily, peaty, and maritime characteristics, this is altogether more feisty and ballsier, with a glance to the big three peaty distilleries in the south of Islay, and even a nod to its peppery cousin on Skye. On the nose there is peat, but it is tempered by dark chocolate; some citrus there, too. The taste is quite sharp, with bitter lemon, licorice, and sooty peat to the fore. Certainly an interesting take on this intriguing distillery, and far removed from last year’s relatively gentle 25 year old release, but there are questions over the balance, and whether it’s a better whisky is a moot point. 

Pale straw. Delicate and a little akin to chilled manzanilla sherry: fresh almond, salinity, light yeast. Vibrant, with the smoke held in check. The palate is much sweeter, with finally some cask-derived sugars beginning to show. Then it rushes to the shoreline and takes a gulp of water, giving an effect like saltwater taffy. It needs water to flesh the palate out. £60/500 ml

This single cask bottling of Clynelish from Wemyss Malts is 16 years old, and just 302 bottles were yielded by the bourbon hogshead in which maturation took place. Milk chocolate, orange, and malt on the nose; fragrant, with stem ginger. Zesty and notably spicy on the palate, with applesauce, peaches, and digestive biscuits. Relatively long in the finish, with oak, allspice, and persistent fruitiness.£67

If you’re looking for a bold, dry, spicy Speysider, this is the one. There’s lots of oak here, with bourbon undertones. A fighting vanilla sweetness manages to keep the whisky from becoming too austere. Gritty texture, with cedar wood, clove, spearmint, anise, herbal notes, dried fruit, and dark chocolate. A whisky that awakens the palate. Very invigorating. (Exclusive to The Whisky Exchange, London.)  Price: approximately $100. 

Half the whisky was aged in bourbon barrels, the other half in sherry casks. This whisky has always been on my short list as one of the finest, most affordable 12 year old single malts available. While the price may have gone up a bit (I remember when it was $20!), the quality remains the same. It’s fresh and lively. A well-balanced dram, with its tell-tale orange marmalade accompanied by tangerine, pineapple upside-down cake, vanilla-soaked barley, subtle brine, and caramel, all leading to a spicy cinnamon and dried vanilla finish. A nice “every day” dram.

Aged exclusively in first-fill casks (60% of it sherry cask), and its oak intensity shows. Sweet, but with a steady dose of dried spice, oak resin, and teasing tobacco to back it up. Silky texture and lush, with fallen orchard fruit, tangerine, chocolate-covered orange, and lemon meringue. A firm dried spice finish rounds it all out. Sort of like The Dalmore 12 year old pumped up on steroids.

Matured in oloroso casks. The oloroso takes what is typically a pleasingly honeyed, but not particularly complex, malt and adds a layer of fruit to it. Crisp, clean notes of lemon, pineapple, and ginger, are softened by honeyed malt, vanilla, and hay. Soft, lingering finish. 

Distilled between October and March, matured in American (first-fill and refill) and European oak casks; meant to be served ice-cold. From the freezer, concentrated aromas of pineapple, hints of honey and smoke. At room temperature, less intense fruitiness, more honey, and ginger. A syrupy mouthfeel from the freezer, with soft spices and orchard fruits. The palate is more complex at room temperature, with heathery spice, pepper, apricots, raisins, and milk chocolate. The finish yields cocoa powder and lingering spices. £38

The fourth release of peated Edradour whisky. This time it’s aged in oloroso sherry casks. There’s a lot going on in this whisky. Yeah, it’s still a little on the young side, but what it lacks in maturity is compensated by a dynamic youthful complexity. A distinctive whisky, with coal tar, damp kiln smoke, caramelized fruit, smoked almond, walnut, licorice stick, and maple-cured bacon. Youthful, sweet, smoky, lingering finish. I’m looking forward to future releases. (6,000 bottles released, but only 900 to the U.S.). 

The latest in this Perthshire distillery’s ongoing Port Cask series of releases has been wholly matured in a bodega port butt since being distilled in 2003. The nose is fragrant, featuring summer berries and glacé cherries, while the palate suggests canned pineapple with cream, contrasting with red wine notes. The finish is quite lengthy, with raspberries, spicy oak, and a whiff of smoke. 

The eighth edition of heavily-peated Edradour bottled under the Ballechin label is part of the distillery’s Discovery Series and has been aged in Sauternes wine casks. The nose yields sweet, fruity smoke, cocoa, and spice. Sweet and soft on the palate, with more fruity smoke, notably pineapple-influenced, with a hint of smoked fish. The finish is medium to long, with ashy peat and slightly bitter citrus fruits.

A nice example of what port wood finishing should do for a whisky. The port influence (finished one year in a port pipe) has taken what would normally have been a fairly straight-forward whisky when it is young-clean, light, and dry with subtle notes of herbs and spices-and added some extra weight along with balancing sweet toffee and full fruit, without dominating. (Bottled exclusively for Binny’s Beverage Depot.) 

What is it with all these older, sherried bottles of Glen Grant from the independent bottlers, anyway? Fortunately, this is one of the nicer ones. The balance of sherry and oak is commendable, and the flavor is clean with that Glen Grant “dried herb” character still evident. Sweet fruit notes (berries in honey, peach pits, sultana, ripe grape) along with almonds and tobacco fill out the palate. Clean, warming finish. 

The initial nose is soft fruits doused in condensed milk, which contributes to an overall impression of light toffee and, weirdly for this distillery in its contemporary guise, some smoke. The fruits manage to mix the ripe and slightly sour. Quite intense; it needs water, which calms proceedings allowing typical Glen Grant purity to come through. The fruits now have some added weight and, again, that smokiness. Intriguing! £75

A new addition to the core range, this shows Glen Grant with a little more weight, but just a little. I’ve never been one for the heavily-sherried versions. Here, the distillery’s signature green elements—spring flowers, fresh apple and pear notes are given a little added weight—apple syrup, toffee, and cooked fruits on the palate. If you’d like an alternative to Glenlivet or Glenfddich 12 then look no further. £43

A Glen Ord bottled by the London wine and spirits establishment of Milroy’s, and a relatively rare opportunity to sample single malt from this Diageo-owned distillery. The nose initially presents lemon zest, then peaches and caramel, with cream soda notes. Very fruity and lively in the mouth, with a nutty, malty undercurrent. Medium in length; firm, with spicy fruit lasting to the very end, accompanied by a touch of well-mannered fresh oak. £45 Currently not available in the U.S.

This relatively youthful whisky was matured in bourbon barrels, before a period in Pedro Ximénez sherry casks. Sweet, red berry notes on the nose, with slightly smoky vanilla and caramel. Voluptuous in the mouth, with spicy, rich sherry notes, sultanas, and ginger. Spicy sea salt and lingering sherry in the finish. £37

Here’s a rarity. A major player in Ballantine’s, this Moray coast distillery is rarely seen in single malt guise. Very gentle, sweet, and juicy start with licks of cream, a hint of barley, and the gentle grassiness typical of the distillery. In time, light almond and fresh lemon. The palate is lightly sticky — Glenburgie for its lightness always shows good succulence — with buttery vanilla, malt, and a touch of toasty oak. Gentle, sweet, and refreshing. 

There’s plenty going on here, but it’s not as vibrant as the other GlenDronachs. Lots of sherry influence, viscous, and a bit sappy, with Curaçao, honey-drenched fruit, raspberry tart, black cherry, and ripe malt leading to a grape stem finish. An enjoyable whisky, but my least favorite of the bunch. 

In style, this is closest to the 1978 in its levels of sweetness. Here, though, there is added key lime pie, juicy white peaches, and whipped cream alongside that deep Glenfarclas roasted ‘polished brass’ note. The medium-weight palate is pure and sweet with light orchard fruits. The most freshly acidic of the selection, with a hint of flowers on the very end. £430

Named in honor of the early Portuguese explorers, this newest Glenfiddich expression has spent a lengthy period of secondary maturation in Madeira drums. This has given a rich sweet fruitiness — think blueberry muffins mixed with moss alongside date, fig, and black grape. The palate is sweet and smooth with a pickup of gingery spices toward the finish. Well balanced and quite a departure. (Travel Retail exclusive, not available in the U.S.) £75 

One of the duo of releases in Glenfiddich’s Experimental Series, ‘IPA’ was finished for 3 months in casks that previously held the Speyside Craft Brewery’s India pale ale. The nose offers hops and honey, malt, toffee, cooking apples, and lemon. Smooth on the palate, with more honey and toffee, soft spices and, ultimately, slightly bitter, hoppy ale notes. The finish is medium in length, with dry spices and plain chocolate.

This 19 year old example of Glen Garioch from 1993 offers a nose of orange blossom, sherry, and milk chocolate, becoming sweeter with time. Finally, butterscotch mousse. Sweet and fruity on the palate, with cherries, icing sugar, and a hint of smoky caramel. Medium to long in the finish, with persistent citrus notes, cinnamon, nutmeg, and ginger. (U.S. only)

Following on from Revival, Glenglassaugh has released 6,000 bottles of Evolution, an expression also made after the distillery’s reopening in 2008. It has been matured in first-fill George Dickel barrels and bottled at cask strength. Peaches and gingerbread on the nose, with brittle toffee, icing sugar, and vanilla. Luscious soft fruits dipped in caramel figure on the palate, with coconut and background stem ginger. The finish is medium in length, with spicy toffee.  £50

Glenglassaugh distillery launched both unpeated and peated expressions matured in octave casks, approximately one-eighth the capacity of a butt. They have not been subjected to chill-filtration. The nose of this unpeated Classic is sweet, with ripe apples, peaches, toffee, and buttery spice. Smooth on the palate, with more peaches and now intense spiciness, followed by vanilla, aniseed, licorice, new oak, and mild cloves in the long, slightly citric finish. £55

Exclusively for the U.S. as an addition between the 10 and the 17 year old. Central to its composition is a ‘parcel’ of refill hogsheads, to which a number of European oak butts have been added. Initially slightly herbal on the nose, with developing fresh fruits and vanilla. Finally, caramel and damp leaves underfoot. Full and confident on the palate, with tropical fruits, stem ginger, and hazelnuts. Drying in the finish, with spicy, rich oak and creamy allspice. 

Matured in amontillado casks. Pleasantly fresh, briny, and yeasty, which works nicely with the atypical toffee and nutty notes. Glenkinchie’s dry, grassy character emerges occasionally, as does some delicate background spice and a hint of lime. Pretty hefty stuff for Lowland malt. 

Amontillado casks are used here, which add a certain almond-like note to the nose, as well as more obvious oakiness. The effect is a general deepening and lengthening of aroma and flavor. The dry notes have gone, replaced by a sweeter and more generous palette of flavors. The fresh meadow flowers are more like cut flowers in a florist shop, the fruits hint toward peach, and there’s a new citric burst on the finish.  

This bottling of Glenmorangie has been released to raise awareness of marine conservation. A proportion of the whisky has been finished in amontillado sherry butts. The nose offers honey, vanilla, peaches, toffee bonbons, wood lacquer, sherry, and a hint of peat. Soft and elegant on the palate, with fruity spice, nutty toffee, more sherry, and sweet smoke. Slightly smoky in the finish, with soft oak, citrus fruit, and aniseed. (Travel Retail only) £60

Taghta—Gaelic for “Chosen One”—is the result of Glenmorangie’s innovative Cask Masters program, in which crowd-sourcing strongly influenced the final release. It is non-chill filtered and has been finished in manzanilla sherry casks. Fragrant, slightly salty, fruity sherry notes, sweet spices on the nose. New leather and lots of spice on the palate, with olives, rock salt, and a suggestion of red wine. Medium in length, drying, with licorice and black pepper. (12,000 bottles) £65

The first non-vintage Glenrothes in recent memory, allowing the distillery more flexibility in cask selection when making a bottling. True to Glenrothes, this expression is mouth-coatingly malty, with well-integrated bright fruit notes, creamy vanilla, praline and honey. Nutty, delicately spicy finish. 

Matured exclusively in ex-bourbon barrels (American white oak, or quercus alba), and certified kosher. It’s a softer, gentler version of Glenrothes. The bourbon oak influence is very evident, showing creamy vanilla and coconut, with additional fruit (orange creamsicle, pineapple, black raspberry, blueberry, and gooseberry). Soft, creamy vanilla finish. A pleasant, easy-going, seamless dram—and perhaps the most approachable Glenrothes whisky.

Fairly straight-forward but pleasing nonetheless. Creamy on the nose and palate. Nicely malty, too, with interwoven notes of vanilla, caramel custard, and hazelnut, offset nicely by dry oak spices and a hint of peat. A calming whisky best enjoyed after a very stressful day. 

Thick and very tactile. Malty, with good heft. Notes of vanilla, honey, biscuit, and caramel custard. A soothing, comforting whisky. On the surface, not very complex, but very satisfying nonetheless. 

Amber-gold colored (not as dark as the other Beltramo’s offering here), with notes of caramel, honey, heather, and bright fruit, evolving into gentle cinnamon, vanilla, and ginger. Soft finish. A Highland Park for a lazy afternoon. (Bottled for Beltramo’s Fine Wines & Spirits) 

Einar was joint Earl of Orkney from 1014, and this bottling moves the Warrior Series slightly further into familiar Highland Park territory. Some gentle smoke on the nose, with fresh newsprint, ginger, caramel, and a hint of halibut oil. Peat smoke, vanilla, and citrus fruit on the palate. A little peat smoke in the medium-length finish. €53/liter

This 17 year old single cask (#10042) bottling of Highland Park was distilled in September 1996 and is presented non-chill filtered and with no added color in Douglas Laing’s Old Particular range. Baked cereal and peeled apples on the peaty nose, while dark, smoky notes contrast with lighter, fruity flavors on the palate, along with a sprinkling of pepper. The finish dries, with more pepper, bonfire embers, and coffee grounds. £90

Dark Origins is a new addition to Highland Park’s core range, inspired by the distillery’s founder, Magnus Eunson. The recipe embraces twice as many first-fill sherry casks than that of Highland Park 12 year old. Chocolate malt, caramel, and ripe bananas on the nose, with a whiff of coal dust. Silky on the palate, with dry sherry, autumn berries, plus more coal and a spicy, plain chocolate edge. Long and dry in the smoky finish, with black pepper.

Style: Islay single malt scotch Color: Pale straw Aroma: Peat smoke-lots of it. Damp earth. Hint of olives and seaweed. Palate: Surprisingly gentle in texture and on the light side of medium in body. A malty sweetness balances the dry-ish peat smoke. Again the damp earth mid palate. An appetizing saltiness emerges towards the finish, but is fleeting. Smoky finish. 

Distinctively pale in color. (A hint of its age?) This annual limited edition release is finally available in the U.S. Youthful, vibrant, and thumping, with the sea flowing through its veins. Coal tar, peat smoke, brine, seaweed, bright fruit (pear, tangerine), and soft vanilla all compete for attention. The only thing holding me back from scoring it higher is that it comes across as a bit too youthful.

Brought back as a celebration of the distillery’s 200th anniversary and, in the vein of other 15 year old expressions, is somewhat restrained. Rather than big phenols there’s an aroma of lanolin, sautéed scallop, fleshy fruit, and real sweetness. The palate shoes some oozing oils and a whiff of creosote, but this is a tea party rather than a wild ceilidh. Maybe bottling at 46% would have given the drive that’s missing.

Quite nutty (especially the latter half of the palate), with chewy toffee, vanilla fudge, subtle fruit, and leafy smoke. I like the texture of this whisky. Quite satisfying. An improvement over the distillery-bottled 10 year old, which I suggested (Vol. 16, No. 2) needed to reach its teens to begin to fully develop. This whisky validates my theory. (Bottled for Maxwell Street Trading Co.)

As with Rosebank, Douglas Laing & Co. Ltd. has made a habit of releasing single malts from the now-demolished distillery of Littlemill, which formerly stood not far from Auchentoshan. The latest variant was distilled in November 1991 and bottled early in 2012. The nose is fresh and fruity, with vanilla and boiled sweets. Sweetly spicy on the straightforward palate, with ginger to the fore. Spice continues through the finish, with a hint of cedar. £157

Cadenhead is responsible for this veteran cask strength release distilled in 1977 at the now-demolished distillery of Littlemill, located a couple of miles from Auchentoshan. The nose is sweet, with icing sugar, vanilla, honey, and peaches. Damp grass after a while. Initially sweet and full on the palate, slightly resinous, with marzipan and sherbet, then quite bitter oak kicks in. The marzipan and tannins fight it out in the finish. £175

Amber color. Rich, malty aroma with notes of vanilla, honey, oak, and floral undertones. Thick, mouth-coating texture. Flavors are big and malty, with notes of honey and vanilla up front, then becoming rather dry with oak and subtle citrus. Huge, long dry finish. 

Plenty of the distillery’s fresh fruits, here with some Demerara sugar sprinkled on the top, a little hint of almond, peppermint, candied apple, and hard fruit sweets. The palate continues in the same vein, with some more apple (baked this time) and a chalky texture. Water allows it to become more creamy (think orange barley water), while a green fresh note emerges in the background. Just slightly bitter behind.

This expression is atypical for a Macallan whisky-the standard Macallan line is aged in sherry casks, while this one is aged in a bourbon cask. Absent the sherry, this isn’t as sweet or rich. Rather, it’s more delicate and gentle. The whisky is very clean and creamy, with lovely floral notes (lavender, heather, rose), intertwined with spices (especially vanilla), and fruit (baked apple, pineapple, coconut). Delicate, pleasing finish. One of the better non-sherried whiskies distilled at Macallan. (Bottled exclusively for the retailer “Wine on the 9.”) 

An interesting application of Macallan, aged originally in a bourbon cask and then in Ridge Zinfandel barrels. Quite sweet and full-flavored, with ripe, jammy fruit, beach plum, subtle (yet deep) toffee, and grape skin, all laced with honey. Dynamic, fun, and carefree.

A mix of two types of cask, both refill. Typical Port Ellen on the nose, very clean, precise, and austere, hiding its sweetness in a new pigskin wallet. Though there are hints of apple and almond, it has a chalky edge and surprisingly low levels of smoke. With water there’s squid ink and waxed paper. The palate starts with Darjeeling tea and roasted fruits, then heads to the kelp-strewn seashore. As challenging as ever, and actually a bit too dry. £600

Straw gold color. A very aromatic whisky, with dry, delicate herbal, floral notes. Light and soft in body. Gentle on the palate-delicately sweet and fruity up front, then becoming dry with herbal, spice notes. 

Pale gold color. Aromatic, floral, herbal aromas (a veritable potpourri), with soft background vanilla malt notes and a hint of lemon. Light and soft in body. Soft, malty vanilla notes on the palate with interwoven notes of herbs, subtle dried fruit, and delicate wood resins. Gently dry finish. 

Thick barley and viscous, with ever-present brine and berried fruit throughout. Underlying notes of waxy fruit (no doubt from some sherry cask aging), clementine, pineapple, and black licorice emerge, followed by the brine kicking in again towards the finish. The most rambunctious of the three. 

Springbank’s tasting room bottling of its triple-distilled malt will not disappoint any fan of the official bottling; all its rounded and honeyed characteristics are firmly in evidence here. The nose is soft and sweet, with praline and a touch of condensed sweet malt joining creamed vanilla. Without water, the malt is surprisingly robust and prickly. Dilute it, though, and it’s a very pleasant drink, with crystallized grapefruit, traces of hickory and menthol, some honey, and sweet candy. Later on, spice comes through, and the finish is long, fruity, and spicy. An interesting take, but not a radical departure from the official bottling. 

Style: Speyside single malt scotch Color: Golden bronze Aroma: Syrupy. Honey. Fruit gum drops. Anise. Spearmint. Palate: Thick, viscous, surupy. Honey up front, then becoming dry through to the end, with notes of dried fruit, mint, and oak. 

Very thick in texture and mouthcoating -- almost chewy -- with ripe barley, shortbread cookies, and honey up front. Dried vanilla, violet, cinnamon, and bright fruit notes emerge mid-palate. The dried spices and moderate oak tannins linger on the finish, contrasting the whisky’s rich, sweet entry. If this whisky were a road, there would be a lot of hills.

A tamed Talisker. The classic Talisker personality shows-seaweed, brine, peat smoke, and freshly ground pepper on the finish. There are even other interesting flavors I enjoy, notably vanilla, licorice root, charcoal, and bitter chocolate. But this whisky needs to be a little livelier to be a truly great whisky. While there’s no age statement, there’s older whisky in here for sure, and maybe that’s part of its “reserved” nature. It certainly is a nice whisky, but I would prefer the more vibrant Talisker 18 year old -at two-thirds the cost. 

The latest release from Talisker is an NAS bottling which contains whisky matured in toasted and refill American oak casks. According to the distiller, this is “An easy-drinking Talisker…more approachable, but still definitely Talisker.” Certainly approachable on the nose, with tangerines, honey, and milk chocolate, before ozone and peat smoke develop. Ginger and a hint of coal tar. Medium-bodied, with citrus fruit and increasingly hot spices, though never overwhelming. Spicy peat, white pepper, and aniseed in a nutty finish. £33

Aged on the Scottish mainland for 14 years and then finished off in sherry casks on the Island of Mull. A fresh whisky with a hint of brine, along with richer nutty toffee and chocolate fudge, embedded with dried fruit. Delicate oak resin peppers the finish, balancing the whisky’s sweetness. One of the best unpeated Tobermory whiskies (i.e. non-Ledaig) whiskies I’ve tasted. The sherry enhances the whiskey without dominating.

One of Speyside’s youngest distilleries, Tomintoul has been a relatively shy performer until recently, when a raft of new releases (some peated) have appeared. This non-chill filtered example is, for me, the best of the bunch. Pale in hue, it has a light, clean floral aroma — think daffodils — with plenty of white fruits and very subtle oak. The palate has pear juice, light vanilla, and a long sweet finish. £34 (Not available in the U.S.)

Selected by distillery manager Douglas Campbell, currently in his 50th year at Tomatin. It has been matured in a combination of American and European oak casks, and just 200 cases have been released. Citrus fruits on the nose, notably oranges, and apricots, with a hint of damp soil. More fruit on the palate, orange wine gums, ginger, and gentle oak. Long and slowly drying in the finish, with encroaching aniseed and tannins. 

Tomatin Legacy has been matured in a combination of bourbon and virgin oak casks, and after an initial release in Europe, worldwide availability will follow. Honey and malt on the nose, melons; fragrant and mildly herbal. White pepper and ultimately a whiff of treacle. Fresh and lively on the sweet, fruity palate, with tinned pineapple, cake mix, and more pepper. Quite dry in the medium length finish, with a suggestion of chili. £26

The nose is nutty and earthy, with dry sherry, cooking apples, vanilla, and emerging icing sugar. Finally, a hint of sea salt. Silky in the mouth, with lively spices, Jaffa oranges, muted sherry, and mixed nuts. The finish is medium in length, nutty, with spice and persistent citrus fruit.

Exclusive to North America, this bottling was matured in bourbon hogsheads for 9 years, and then finished in French oak casks for a further 3 years. The casks originally contained red wine from the Bacalhoa winery. Before use by Tomatin they underwent a de-char/re-char process. Peaches, vanilla, milk chocolate, and ginger on the nutty nose, with new-mown hay. Full-bodied, with toffee apples, black pepper, and cloves. Lingering warm spices in the finish. (12,000 bottles)

This NAS cask strength expression of Tomatin was matured in a mix of bourbon and virgin American oak casks. The nose is sweet and fragrant, with vanilla, cinnamon, and developing coconut ice. Silky on the palate initially, softly spiced, with vanilla toffee, pears, and apples; then the spices intensify, introducing a hint of chili. Drying in the lengthy, spicy, slightly herbal finish. (282 bottles; exclusive to Robertson’s, Pitlochry, Perthshire) £55

The bourbon cask-matured partner to the Sherry Matured bottling (see above), this expression similarly comprises a vatting of whisky distilled in 1973, 1977, 1988, 1991, 2002, and 2006. Both Contrasting Casks are offered in non-chill filtered format. Apple pie, with buttery caramel, milk chocolate, and coconut on the nose. Zesty spices on the early palate, then custard, contrasting lemon, and a note of char. Spicy fruits, black pepper, and more char in the finish. £100

Initially aged in bourbon barrels, this expression was transferred into Cabernet Sauvignon wine casks in March 2011 for additional maturation. Musty wine notes on the early nose soon become red berries and vanilla. Supple on the palate, with big red berry notes, plus honey and ginger. Lingering ginger and raspberries in the finish, drying to dark chocolate (2,520 bottles) £70

This 9 year old bottling has been fully matured in Caribbean rum barrels. Quite delicate on the nose, with wet grass, then emerging coconut and whipped cream. Slick on the palate, with an instant tropical fruit hit—ripe banana and pineapple—plus more cream, cinnamon, and hazelnut. Spicy and nutty in the finish, with a final tropical fruit tang (6,600 bottles) £40

There’s something rather round peg in a square hole about Tormore, that grand urban palace of a distillery in wildest Speyside. The whisky, sadly, is often the same. Here, though, things look promising to start with: rice crackers, and a spicy, rye-like hardness on top of a vanilla-accented, sweet trail mix of a nose with some earthiness behind. The palate, for me, is still too rigid. For all its efforts to relax, this Tormore remains tense. £90

Tullibardine has been offering a 1988 vintage edition for several years, but in 2011 it bottled a new variant at 23 years of age, matured in a mixture of first-fill bourbon barrels and ex-sherry hogsheads. Malt, vanilla, carnations, and peaches on the full nose. The palate is initially sweet and fruity, with toffee, lively spices, and more herbal notes duly appearing. The finish features cereal, spice, and white chocolate. £47

Finished principally in Pedro Ximenez Spanish sherry casks, Tullibardine 500 Sherry has a fragrant nose, with new leather, beeswax, apple, and vanilla. The palate is smooth and sherried, with more leather, brittle toffee, orange peel, honey, and nutmeg. The fruity finish is notably spicy, with lingering wood polish notes. 

The second release in the Custodians’ series was matured in two sherry hogsheads—one first-fill and the other second-fill. This 46 year old is presented at cask strength. The early nose offers herbal and menthol notes, old resin, citrus fruits, then milk chocolate-coated peppermint creams… idiosyncratic. The palate is quite thin, with more citrus fruits, almonds, and developing wood notes. The finish is lightly oaky and mouth-drying, with a touch of black pepper.

This is clearly Oban. Time in Montilla fino casks hasn’t diminished the fresh fruitiness. The orange zestiness has also been retained. Like the ‘Kinchie, what the finish has done is allow the palate to thicken out and show what seems like a more mature personality. A new heavy floral note emerges. All in all, there is greater concentration and ripeness with an added ginger note. Another edition that improves on the original.

Thick, viscous golden syrup, digestive biscuits, and Almond Joy bars underpin some soft, peaty aromas. It’s rather an appealing combination. Satin smooth on the tongue, with lemon, lime, orange, and dried pineapple, but enough malt to keep things interesting. The finish riffs on a ripe lemon theme accompanied by spicy stardust. For the few extra bucks, the more mature component whiskies make for a richer, fuller, and more satisfying experience than The Antiquary’s red-labeled bottle.

Wemyss Malts names the sources of these single cask bottlings for the first time in the series. ‘Caribbean Fruits’ is a 1990 Glencadam. The hogshead in which it was matured has yielded just 320 bottles. Sweet on the nose, with apricots, fudge, creamy vanilla, and drinking chocolate. Tropical fruits on the palate, with malt, hazelnuts, and spicy oak. Tannins and cocoa powder in the finish. £80

One of two single cask bottlings of 17 year old Clynelish released by Wemyss Malts in the fall of 2014. The hogshead provided 373 bottles. Pineapple and nectarines on the nose, with salted caramel. Mildly herbal. The palate is rich and viscous, with a sprinkling of pepper over sliced red apples, sweet spices, vanilla, and hazelnuts. Lingering in the finish, with lemon; nutty and lightly oaked. £68

Distilled in 1994 and matured in a single hogshead, this 21 year old expression is part of Wemyss Malts’ 2016 Midsummer Single Cask Release. Rich, stewed fruits, honey, and allspice on the pleasing nose. Voluptuous on the palate with spicy apple and cranberry. The finish dries quite rapidly to aniseed and spicy oak. (220 bottles) £100

Who could refuse a blend of single malts wholly matured in oloroso sherry casks? They’ve perfectly bottled the aroma of molten tiffin: the chocolate, cocoa, biscuit, raisin, dried dates, and walnut are all here. Sipping brings on chocolate, coffee, malt, ginger, nutmeg, and dried fig. There’s no slow reveal, it pretty much lays its cards on the table immediately; rather than developing flavors, they extinguish one, by one leaving a finish of cocoa and maltiness. (6,000 bottles) £40

Perfect for fall; like strolling through an orchard polishing a windfall apple before crunching into its juicy fruit. Nose of caramel, dry worked wood, banana chips, cinnamon, and Indian spices. The palate is warming, with apple juice backed by a slowly growing spice note, later caramels, and a slight oxidized apple and brown peel note to end. The finish has a mildly bitter apple tinge and buzzing spices. The apple sings out with a dash of water. (494 bottles) £89

A solid presence in the range, the strength and malt content continue to mark these out over their contemporaries. Grapefruit peels, sliced juicy orange, and lemon butter icing on the nose. The palate is thinner than others in the range, with crystallized orange, fudge, plus cardamom and mild pepper. The finish of sugared satsumas is boosted by a long lasting trail of spices.

What a surprise! Really thick and malty for a blend (there’s a high malt content here for sure), and also nicely mature for 8 years old. Great balance too, with the island aggressiveness tamed by a rich, malty elegance. Delicious honey, toasted oak, firm peat, dark chocolate, and glazed citrus meld nicely with the malt, leading to a honeyed, lightly-peppered finish. Very enjoyable.

Good weight to this blend. Creamy and mouth-coating on the palate, with a nice malty, honey-tinged backbone. Bright fruitabounds, with golden raisin, lemon meringue, peach, and a hint of pineapple. Notes of creamy vanilla and gently nutty, through to its soft finish. 

Deeper and darker when compared to its younger siblings, but with the same personality. Drier, especially on the finish, with added oak resin, espresso, leather, and tobacco. Bonus points for character.

An uncommon exclusive bottling of a 6 year old cask strength malt. Light gold in color, the nose is vegetal, more peat bog than peat smoke, with an undercurrent of pastry cream and rose. It’s an odd combination of aromas. The entry is flavorful and inviting with smoked pineapple, clove, and rose. Peak smoke arrives in full force in the mid-palate, which drops the sweet and becomes spicy. The finish is mostly smoke, but with a pleasant minty coolness.  (Wyoming only)

A new, and welcome, permanent member of the core Kilchoman range, this comes from a mix of sherry finished and sherry matured whisky. The nose kicks off with a lovely cigar ash note—a cigar club toward the end of the evening—and while there are some dried fruits from the sherry, Kilchoman’s gentle, light character gives energy and lemony lift—shellfish, grass, and herbs. Lovely balance. Rounded, softly fruity, and highly approachable.

A “branded” malt, meaning we don’t know which distillery this whisky came from. Fresh and quite fruity (peach, nectarine, golden raisin, orange, pineapple) with a nice underlying honey, vanilla, and caramel sweetness. Soft, gentle, malty finish. It’s clean, nicely balanced, and pleasant.

Hazelburn was first produced at Springbank during 1997. It varies stylistically from ‘traditional’ Springbank, as it is triple distilled using unpeated malt. The 8 year old expression has been matured in 60 percent ex-bourbon and 40 percent sherry wood. The nose is fresh, light, fruity, and faintly resinous, with gentle spice. Sherbet, malt, and vanilla on the attractive and lively palate, with developing spicy oak and a hint of pepper in the finish. 

Master of Malt is an online whisky company that seems to try its hand at most things and is bringing a fresh irreverence to the world of whisky. This was created in partnership with the bass guitarist of British rock band Athlete, and it's rather good. Sweet and rich with toffee, orange chocolate, and honey, it's another blend with a lot to say for itself.  £55

Master of Malt has accumulated quite a trophy cabinet for their work on blends. The nose is inviting, with butter toffee, Bramley apples, fennel seeds, cut lawns, and chocolate-covered oat biscuits. It’s a pretty smooth proposition, serving up caramel maltiness, stewed apple, and orange and grapefruit pith, with just a hint of sharp lemon freshness to open up with. The ginger finish is zappy but short. A solid, everyday blend.

We don't see very much Craigellachie as a single malt because most of it goes into blending, and from that we might draw the conclusion that it's not particularly distinctive in its own right. If it plays a role in this mix it's a submissive one then, because after a not altogether enticing nose that has gooseberry, green salad, and some prickly chili pepper, the palate is all about a mouth-coating big pepper hit that stays long into the finish. €40

The old name for Edinburgh has been hijacked for use on this mix of Islay malts, and appropriate it is. The creosote, damp outbuilding, and oily rope nose is distinctive and strong, the peat pronounced in the taste, though gooseberry, green melon, and a trace of kumquat are also in the mix, and there's pepper in there too. But ultimately the peat holds out and brings up the finish. 

Brian Kinsman’s new creation was inspired by their founder William Grant, with a remit to create a malty blend of character. Digestive biscuits, malt, honeycomb, and confectioner’s chocolate melted over a bain-marie. It’s a satisfyingly rich dram, well-structured with a great mouthfeel that wanes with natural dilution. Banoffee pie, caramel biscuits, and maltiness deepen to flavors of coffee bean and molasses, leaving a teeth-coating finish of black coffee. (UK and France only) £18

It will soon be 120 years since this workhorse of a distillery came into being. Golden Grahams, sanded oak, whole lemon, floral blooms, and cumin seeds on the nose, but the whole confection is rather restrained. The palate is sweet, but could be too sweet for some; Scottish tablet, caramel, ripe banana, granulated sugar, and ginger loaf. Some late heat accompanies the sugary finish. Remember to brush your teeth before bed.

Custard creams, lemon peel, and clotted cream create easygoing aromas on this drop from the mighty Edinburgh grain distillery. The palate moves rapidly through flavors of lemon cake and lime zest, to grapefruit sharpness and fresh pineapple, reaching a plateau of sherbet and tangerine. Like a bulldog chewing a wasp, there’s lip-puckering sharpness throughout, though it’s judiciously dosed with sufficient sweetness to counterbalance it. A great introduction to the delights of the single grain category. (117 bottles) £48

As young a Caledonian as you’ll find; I found the nose rather underdeveloped. Crystallized lemon slices, green banana, solvents, dry grasses, and a sniff of nail polish remover. In the mouth, lemon flavors, saccharine sweet honey, and banana dipped in melted chocolate, while the alcohol nips at the tongue. A good trajectory redeems its character, leaving deep throbbing spice notes in the finish, with bitter citrus at the fringes.

More typical grain whisky territory here, with a nose of cornflakes, fresh cream, cut grass, filaments of orange peel, and a curiously dull pepper note. Spice, sweetness, and citrus fight for dominance. Spice wins with a K.O. on sweetness and lays the citrus out cold on the canvas. Creamy chocolate notes tarnished with hot pepper on the finish, though coffee-pot flavors emerge with a dash of water.

A very different whisky to its unaged namesake, and most unlike any of the other blends tasted for this issue. That’s no bad thing.
This is less sweet than most blends, with tobacco leaf and ashtray to the fore, and a dusty, grainy note with a touch of oak, grape skin, and sweet heather. That said, not a lot of evidence of the 12 years in cask.

I have a soft spot for the Braes: not only a forgotten part of Speyside, but the only distillery whose roof I’ve stood on. Anyway, here you have yeastiness and a smell like just-baked, sugar-topped apple pie, the fruit cracking through warm pastry. Sweet, direct, and slightly nervy, Braes is never going to be a heavy hitter, but this is the ideal dram to conjure up fading memories of summer.

How can you really compare this to a quality blend priced under $50? It's hard not to view this as a victory of style over substance, and I object to premium whiskies being just 40% ABV, but nevertheless this is excellently made and the blending of whiskies over 21 years is exemplary. It's rich and viscous with light peach and plum notes and a pleasant earthy base.

Amber. A thick nose with touches of fresh varnish and a little oiliness. Has some substance and weight and the heavy florals (lily, jasmine) typical of mature Craig, alongside toffee. The palate is ripe, juicy, and full, the cask adding a slight resinous edge. Appears slightly smoky. Becomes fleshy, even waxy, with water, and decidedly more elegant. The tannins are supple and some herbal notes emerge. It is at its best neat, or with water on the side. £80

Distilled in June 1994, this example of Deanston was aged for 20 years in a refill butt, which ultimately yielded 188 bottles. Quite shy on the nose, a hint of starch, gentle malt, and ginger. Shows its true colors on the palate: relatively full-bodied and sweet, with peaches and over-ripe apricots. Softly spiced. The finish is lengthy and sweet, with cocoa powder and sprightly oak. £87

Pale straw. This is a classic young Caol Ila, all elbows and knees. There is sweetness, but it’s counteracted by this briny edge and an aroma like firelighters in among smoldering peat. Shut your eyes and it could be mezcal. The smoke envelops the palate while you pick out edible seaweed and smoked oyster on the tongue. Very bright and would make a good aperitif/highball. £50

Huge marzipan/almond notes greet you on the first sniff. This then moves into an aroma like crepe bandage and even a hint of ointment, then lychee and some maltiness. The palate is surprisingly feisty, with a little orange. Water brings out mash tun aromas and a pleasing whiff of sheep pens. When diluted, the palate is very pretty, with the almond returning. Easy drinking. £80

This was distilled the year before Carsebridge joined Scottish Grain Distillers under Distillers Company Limited (DCL). It brings a nose of toasted muffins, whole lemon, light honey, vanilla, pencil shavings, and a slight herbal hit. Smooth, thick, and viscous, with light lemon, honey, gentle spices, peach melba, and toffee. The finish is silky and mouth-coating; rich and luxuriant. A venerable, pleasant old grain, but it lacks the zing to become truly exceptional and distinctive. (101 bottles) £267

An uncommon 26 year Lowland single grain whisky made from wheat and aged in refill bourbon casks. Oak is quite present on the nose, but it's not alone: there's also bright citrus, pine, and white cake. The opening is softer with vanilla and apricot, but it's only a brief respite before a very spicy mid-palate focused around oak and white pepper. There is a fair amount of fire from the alcohol, which drives a very spicy and dry finish. (U.S. only)

Another blast of new oak. Fat and creamy, with distinct charred elements along with stewing pineapple, banana fritters, white chocolate, suntan oil, and a melting bar of nut-filled milk chocolate. An instructive dram showing how maturity is very different from age. With water, some of the distillery finally pokes through. To be honest, it’s slightly too much for me; like overdosing on cotton candy or sugar-topped donuts. £54

This 2000 vintage expression from Glenturret was matured in refill sherry hogsheads before bottling in 2015 as part of Gordon & MacPhail’s “MacPhail’s Collection” range. The nose is earthy, with vanilla, treacle, and dark berries, plus fruit spices. Full-bodied in the mouth, with spicy, zesty plums, raisins, cocktail cherries, and nutmeg. The finish is lengthy, with black treacle, cocoa powder, and an edge of slightly bitter oak.

This peated expression from Tobermory distillery has been aged in refill, remade hogsheads. The nose offers earthy peat, citrus fruit, vanilla, and smoked haddock in butter. Big, sweet peat notes on the peppery palate, with marshmallows and lively spices. The spices linger to the close, with peat embers and a hint of brine on the lips. £60

While most Wemyss Malts’ releases are named after flavor descriptors, this one adopts a well-known Shakespearean reference. A sherry butt filled in 2002 gave an out-turn of 854 bottles. The nose offers toffee bonbons, coffee with condensed milk, and finally farmyard aromas. The palate is relatively sweet, with spicy sherry notes and contrasting mildly citric fruit, plus a slight earthiness. The finish is medium to long, with lingering spice and a carry-over of coffee from the nose. £57

This is a little darker in color than its younger counterpart (see below), although it is achieved without the complex recipe of different cask maturation that characterized the 2011 Special Releases bottling. Weetabix, hazelnut shells, and the aroma of warm pretzels from a street vendor waft out of the glass. It’s a soft, silky, wheat-flavored whisky that reaches into dark toffee and nutty territory. Imagine a molten toffee crisp, if you like. A nougat and walnut-whip finish. Distinctively different.

Light gold. Fresh and lightly nutty/biscuity combined with a gently swelling aroma of fruit syrups, green grape, lime (or green) jelly babies, and Quetsch, with that nut flour underneath. The palate is similarly smooth, creamy, and upfront, with a decidedly acidic zing to the finish before the wood finally shows its presence. A soft, delicious whisky that ticks all the right boxes but doesn’t really set the world alight. (2,700 bottles)

At this age, there are more linear displays of fruit and sweetness than the 8 year old. Behind the tarte tatin, butterscotch, light pepper, and wood spice is a green, verdant nose of wet foliage and public lawns in the morning mist. It has a light to medium-weight texture of sugary butterscotch, strawberry, and raspberry developing around an oak and malt core. When the fruit flavor withers, there is a drop off in flavor, leaving a malty melee. £48

An odd non-age stated blend that uses a solera system to get a drop of the original 1958 blend into the mix. The blend is then finished for four years in oloroso casks. It's a bit of blending gymnastics. Very sherry influenced, with marionberry jam, malt, salt, and oak. The integration and flavors are nice, but it all feels a bit muted. A medium length and dry finish shows off some of the younger spirit in the mix. (U.S. only)

Master blender Graham Coull hand-selected a variety of aged stock and cask types for this new global addition to the Label 5 range. Vanilla, dark fruit, and gentle spices on the nose, but the appeal lies in the beautiful, clingy mouthfeel. Warm marmalade, nuts, and oak flavors with whispers of cinnamon and clove combine to produce a creamy, smooth dram. It builds and builds but never feels like it fully arrives. The finish is drying with dampened-down spices. €40

Full gold. Good cask interaction here, allowing a light tropical fruit element to emerge alongside peach and apricot. Juicy and sweet, in other words, with none of the usual Tormore rigidity. The palate is equally concentrated, showing some heat, with a decent degree of fleshy elegance. Water brings out more dry elements: brown bracken, hayloft. It begins to firm up, but it is good enough to change folks’ minds about this distillery. £125

It’s Double Wood, Jim, but not as we know it. Here, the blend has been given a Madeira finish, presenting an appealing nose of spun sugar, golden raisins, cinnamon, nutmeg, and hazelnut. The blend has a creamy texture, with good weight to carry the flavors of orange peel, mango, and dried pineapple, leading to a zesty spark on swallowing. Wood spices, nuttiness, and lingering toffee make for a satisfying finish. The extra Madeira maturation is understated and perfectly judged.

Benachie, formerly known as Jericho, was an Aberdeenshire distillery built southeast of Huntly that existed from 1822–1913. A dark amber dram with a nose of marmalade, ground almond, cherry lips, and vanilla essence. Attractive, but not overly aromatic. Cooked plums after a peppery rush begin an attenuated flavor journey, exiting with a spicy finale.

Distilled in 1985, this expression of Highland Park was matured in a single bourbon cask that yielded 252 bottles. Green apples, tinned mandarin oranges, linseed, and a hint of smoky chocolate on the nose. Sweet spices, coconut, and mild peat smoke on the light palate. Lingering peat smoke, root ginger, and a touch of vanilla in the medium-length finish. £120

Surprisingly punchy for its age, there’s very little cask activity here, so what you get is a reduction of Caol Ila into oils (lanolin) and whiffs of the harbor (drying fishing nets) rather than overt smokiness. The palate is gentle and shy, with an unctuous feel that drifts into poached pear and light cream. Delicate, but also oozing with character. Best neat.

This example of the little-seen Glentauchers immediately shows classic distillery character, which is in the green grassy camp. This verdant aspect continues into fresh fruit salad, with enough ripeness to indicate the time spent in cask. This mix of freshness and weight extends onto the tongue, although the impact fades soon after a light spicy tingle on the back palate. I’d happily have a couple.

This single cask bottling from Langside Distillers was aged in a sherry butt and bottled in 2015. Candied orange peel on the early nose, soft sweet sherry, and glacé cherries. Fragrant, with milk chocolate-coated Turkish Delight. Sweet, spicy sherry, plus pepper and cinnamon on the uncomplicated palate. Fruity spices in the medium-length finish. (222 bottles, Robertsons of Pitlochry exclusive) £45

From the most westerly grain distillery in Scotland comes this wee charmer, offering coconut fondant, galia melon, fresh cream, and a pleasing, fragrant foliage note (walking through dense reed beds in early summer). A big, juicy dram with citrus, tropical fruits, and dabs of white pepper heat. The creaminess builds as dilution occurs, then it reaches a natural plateau and hits cruise. An intensely tangy and long finish of dried fruits. (232 bottles) £81

Drawn from a single refill barrel, the nose is like a day in the life of a honeybee: streams of pollen, rich nectar, heady scents of flying over bright summer flowers and summer picnics of white peaches and lemonade before returning to the hive to the sweet, sticky honey. It’s quite a buzz! There’s an acidic palate of lemon juice, lime, honey, and lemon pith bordering on bitterness. The finish is incredibly dry, like someone just invented lemon-scented sandpaper. (168 bottles) £85

Creamy vanilla, fresh-cut grass, gentle herbal notes, Murray mints, and the warm newsprint wrappers of fish and chips on the coast (in a lovely, comforting way). The cereals provide a sweet biscuit note, butterscotch candy, gingersnaps, and a nip of aniseed. The outturn of cask #10804, its taste develops with dried orange peel, cookie dough, and vanilla. Quite scrumptious! Fading slowly, it leaves behind gentle spices and syrup-drizzled popcorn. (198 bottles) £86

An immediate and perhaps surprising smokiness which brings to mind cask-aged mezcal (tepeztate to be precise), and it is this green, celery-accented element playing off some oily, nutty, and farmyard notes that gives balance and intrigue. Water reveals its youth, but there’s enough cask action to add some weight to the palate, where the natural sweet spirit shows itself. Keenly priced. Worth a look next time you are flying. (Travel Retail exclusive) £68

Matured in bourbon casks, this is the second release from the fledgling Caithness Distillery. Clearly youthful on the nose, but not raw, with ginger, melon, and background resin. Ultimately, mildly floral. Chili notes on the relatively dry palate, with nutmeg and spicy oak. The finish is on the short side of medium in length, peppery, and slightly bitter. Once decanted, this dram improves significantly and is rated on that basis. (1,200 bottles)£65

Smoke comes at you immediately, the morning-after smoke of a spent fire, mixing with reeds and rushes, a touch of coconut, and light oak. Water is needed to bring out sweetness alongside the Band-Aid note typical of many young peaty whiskies. The palate is a lot sweeter than the nose suggests, bold and quite thick; honey adding a sticky quality that then moves into creosote and antiseptic cream. It needs hefty degrees of dilution. A work in progress. £100

The nose has a conspicuous grain quality to it, like a bouquet of flowers in a nail salon. In addition to acetone, there is orange fondant and the smell of new Legos. Soft marshmallow and orange cream dilute to strawberry candy, soft peaches, and pineapple, but it’s all swept aside by a Tabasco jackhammer that ricochets between the tongue and palate. Finish of Gatorade fruit punch and ginger root. (246 bottles)

With whiskies aged for 5 years in bourbon barrels, this has a pleasant nose of dark toffee, vanilla, toasted whole grain bread, and light spices. The mouthfeel is a bit flabby; chocolate and toasted spices, especially cinnamon and pepper, are quelled by malty caramel, baked orange, and touches of old leather. The finish is dry, malty, and slightly nutty, with a hollow core of spices. A bit dour overall.

This blend has been a Whyte and MacKay whisky for 25 years. The nose has spice, toffee, wheat biscuits, and smoke, but the combination feels a little benign. The palate is jammy, lightweight, and middle-of-the-road. With a backbone of grain, there are flavors of graham cracker, chocolate ganache, well-baked fruitcake, banoffee pie, smoke, and dried peels, with a burst of spices on the finish.

This soft, bright, easy-going whisky is back in the U.S. after being absent for several years. Very fragrant, with vibrant fruit (nectarine, plum, guava, pineapple, clementine), honeyed vanilla, and subtle macadamia. Fairly light (a pre-dinner or leisurely afternoon malt, perhaps?), but evenly balanced. A gentle introduction to single malts for the blended scotch drinker. 

A blend of three different single malts. Its name derives from the fact that the whisky is aged in American oak bodies with French Oak heads (a cross of both oaks). There’s no age statement, but the whiskies are all older than ten years. This is a gentle, subtly complex, somewhat lithe, easy drinking whisky (and with less oak spice than its predecessor, The Spice Tree). People think whisky is an after-dinner drink, but I think this would make a great aperitif because of its delicate dry spice notes and light body. I’m picking up evenly-proportioned notes of vanilla and coconut, with more subtle notes of clove, anise, and delicate fruit, all wrapped up in a gentle, malty body. A very versatile whisky. 

A tribute this time from Edrington Group in the form of this one-off blend of The Famous Grouse. The sherried element seems to have been upped as it shows lavish amounts of dark chocolate, black cherry, and a little treacle, with some orange peel and, with water, raspberry and heather.  The palate shows a hint of smoke and builds through rich flavors to a toffee-accented finish. Subtle and long. £25

Described as “an exotic mix of bananas, mango, pitaya, pineapples, guava, passion fruit, and raisins, all balanced perfectly by deep charred peaty notes.” It sort of is, but this isn't a soft, silky smooth dessert whisky; it's Rod Stewart singing Air Supply's “All Out Of Love.” It's soft and gentle, but the gravel may put off the softies, and it's far too bland to appeal to fans of Maggie May. Between a rock and a hard place.

Pleasingly aromatic and floral, with lively fruit, fresh cereal grain, honey and vanilla cream. Subtle grassy, hay notes add complexity. A very friendly whisky, conjuring up images of a sunny afternoon in Spring. 

In terms of bang for your buck this has always been one of the very best blends, punching well above its weight. Whether you feel the same about this revamped version depends on how much you want a peat punch. Previously rough and gutsy, this is softer, with more licorice and treacle but also more younger sappiness. Smoke has the last say but it's like an aging sportsman, replacing energy and attitude with guile and subtlety.

Ardmore is a rising star in the world of single malt. Until four years ago it was little known in its own right, its main purpose being as a key malt in Teacher’s. Then Ardmore Traditional was released, and it’s been winning over drinkers ever since. That malt is a delicatessen whisky: smoky, oily, and savory, a unique Highland malt with much to recommend it. This is a different proposition altogether. It’s clean and sweet, with pineapple candy, dusty and almost incense-like spices, and a liberal dose of sweet peat. Some citrus notes, too. The peat holds out until the end with impressive effect. There’s talk of this becoming a permanent part of the Ardmore portfolio. Let’s hope so: it’s further proof that Ardmore is a very interesting distillery indeed. (Travel Retail and selected specialist whisky shops.) 

Rich, good body, blueberry muffin, black cherry, a lot of tannic grip (perhaps a little too much for balance). Not as polished as the Pomerol or Madeira.

Arran distillery has been making peated batches of spirit since 2004, and this NAS bottling is the fifth release of that spirit, peated to 20 ppm. The outturn is 12,000 bottles. Nutty peat, spicy malt, toffee, and lemon on the mildly savory nose. Vibrant on the palate, with lots of citrus fruit. A bonfire smokiness develops steadily, with spice, nuts, and plain chocolate through to the relatively long finish, which features a persistent citric note.

A very textural whisky. Incredibly creamy, with mouth-coating vanilla, honeyed barley, hay, linseed oil, clementine, and subtle peach. The whisky continues to cling to the palate long after the finish. It’s what you would expect Auchentoshan to taste like, but bolder. A nice whisky, but lacking the polish of the standard 21 year old expression. 

American Oak is new to the Auchentoshan core range in 2014 and is the first release from this Lowland distillery to be matured solely in first-fill bourbon casks. An initial note of rosewater, then Madeira, vanilla, developing musky peaches, and icing sugar. Spicy fresh fruit on the palate, chili notes, and more Madeira and vanilla. The finish is medium in length, and spicy to the end.

The Bourbon Matured variant of Balblair’s two Travel Retail expressions of its 2004 vintage is available on a worldwide basis. Light and delicate on the initial nose, with ripe pear, melon, lemon, watery toffee, and hints of honey and ginger. Sweet orchard fruits on the palate, with developing cinnamon, coconut, and crème brûlée. Tingling spices in the finish, with slightly drying oak.

The tell-tale rich honeyed Balvenie personality is spiced up by finishing it off in new charred oak casks, making a normally masculine whisky even bigger. The honeyed malt impacts the palate first, with intermediate notes of citrus fruit, followed by dried spices (cinnamon, vanilla, ginger, and cocoa). The new oak impact is most evident on the whisky’s long, dry, spicy finish. A nice whisky, but perhaps a tad too much new oak for greatness? 

Good, straightforward, moderately sherried Balvenie. Classic honeyed notes combine with vanilla, ripe barley, glazed citrus, apricot marmalade, cinnamon, and nutmeg. A nice entry level Balvenie, a solid effort. 

Very fruity and spicy. High, bright fruit notes of lemon, mandarin, and mango, with a sprinkling of ginger and powdered vanilla. Oak kicks in on the end, leading to a fairly dry finish, which is not surprising for a 30 year old whisky. 

Finished in a dark rum cask. Notes of peat, smoked mackerel, and suggestions of charcoal married with molasses, vanilla wafer, golden raisin, cantaloupe, and a dollop of honey. It’s missing the more defined fruit notes that the other two have. I’d like to see this at 15 years to give it more depth. 

In the same genre as BenRiach 12 year old reviewed below, but more concentrated, with additional notes of resinous oak, light toffee, and soft caramelized pear. 

Lovely golden honey color. Lush and sweet (the Sauternes impact is obvious), with honey-drenched apricot, sultana, and lemon gum drops. Vanilla, candied nuts, and subtle botanicals round out the palate. Decent oak grip on the finish keeps the whisky from being too cloying.

A venerable bottling from its proprietor, and there’s no doubt from the nose that you’re dealing with an ultra-mature whisky. Like going in to meet your aged grandfather who is sitting in his library surrounded by old books, with a little sunlight filtering through the drapes. In time, there’s dried peach and envelope gum. The palate is wooded and concentrated, but it is dry and lacking in the required energy. Water stirs it into life, but kills the flavor. £450

The only distillery-approved bottling of Bladnoch in the United States. When compared to the Gordon & MacPhail bottling above, this one isn’t as sweet or creamy in texture. There’s more citrus fruit and a drier, spicier finish. This one is also bolder and a bit more aggressive. 

Aged for six years in bourbon casks, then aged an additional ten years in Bordeaux wine casks. Classic Bowmore peat smoke and red berried fruit (raspberry, strawberry) are the main components of this whisky, with additional notes of plum, grape skin tannins, currant, caramel, and marzipan. Good grip from the Limousin oak (wine casks). Some brine and damp cellar notes emerged occasionally, with the smoke lingering long on the finish.

Aged in a used bourbon barrel. Rather soft for Bowmore — especially for its age — with a gentle foundation of honey, vanilla, and malt. Interwoven notes of summer fruit, coconut, lime, and gentle peat, with teasing brine and smoke on the finish. A straightforward, unpretentious, pleasant Bowmore. 

Finished in Madeira casks. An interesting contrast to the 15 year old. This one is more challenging than soothing (and quite dry too -- especially on the palate), with dominant red fruit (currant, raspberry, strawberry), plum, baked cinnamon apple, polished leather, bourbon, almonds, and just the hint of smoke and brine. Dry, resinous finish. An intense Laddie.

A departure from the first edition of Bruichladdich 20 year old, and very Glenmorangie-esque-given that it was aged for five weeks in Mourvedre wine casks before being bottled. The wine influence is evident, both in appearance (a pinkish hue), its palate (berry fruits), and even its nickname ("flirtation"). It is quite a sweet Bruichladdich, with chewy toffee, ripe berries, background pit fruits, and earthy/ resinous spicy notes-especially on the finish. A Bruichladdich fresh Islay sea breeze character fights its way through, but it is a struggle. 

A very fruity “Laddie,” flowing with tangerine, apricot, pineapple and pear. Background notes of honey, vanilla, and a wisp of smoke. The typical Bruichladdich fresh, appetizing, brine notes are restrained, emerging ever so subtly on the finish. Nicely rounded and clean throughout. 

A replacement to the original 10 year old, which is now off the market. A clean, straightforward dram with a lightness and freshness which is very inviting. Notes of vanilla cream, light caramel, tropical fruit (coconut, pineapple), clementine, pear, and a hint of currant. Appetizing, subtly briny finish.

Finished in a rum cask. Gold with a greenish tinge. Notes of ripe barley, demerara sugar, toasted marshmallow, and sultana, with underlying vanilla and subtle brine emerging on the finish. A pleasant, easy-going Laddie. (Bottled for Bayway World of Liquor)

The 8th in a series of “Links” releases. This one’s further enhanced in Chateau Latour Bordeaux casks. Bright, fruity notes of red raspberry, rhubarb, and candy apple. Teasing fresh brine emerges occasionally, along with citrus, mango, and vanilla. A very perky whisky. 

The second bottling from Bruichladdich in this range shows the ‘traditional‘ side of a distillery that is famed for the variety of its expressions. This, in other words, is Bruichladdich in its sweet, honeyed, gentle guise partnered with American oak to produce a mashed banana character, an unctuous palate, and a light touch of almond on the finish. Lovely. £55 (500 ml)

The Micro Provenance series is Bruichladdich’s web-exclusive range of single cask bottlings. This is made from barley grown on Rockside Farm (now owned by Kilchoman) and has been aged in virgin oak. The oak doesn’t dominate the nose, allowing fresh cereal sweetness to develop, along with an estery lift and some jasmine/meadowsweet florals. The palate is where creamy vanilla and white chocolate show through. Fresh, balanced, and bottled at the right time. (468 bottles) £90

Our second Bunna’, this is pale of hue with a surprising hint of salinity alongside a whiff of lemon sherbet, and an aroma like wet linen, while a floury maltiness runs below. Age however has twisted the fruits into the verge of musty over-ripeness. It’s explosive and spicy and, even though this is only 46%, it is hot. Water picks up the acidity before there’s a huge hit of warming ginger as the kiss-off.  £89

Very chewy. Think of melting Mars bars, with a touch of coconut cream, then red-fruit acidity, red cherry, and lemon. All very forward and sweet, but with no alcohol when neat, showing an active cask. Dilute, there’s coconut, pea shoots, and banoffie pie. The palate is thick with Jaffa cake (orange and chocolate), then nutty granola. It doesn’t take water too well. Quite fat. £50/500 ml

One of a series of single cask, wine-finished Caol Ilas. This one is finished in a claret (Bordeaux) wine cask. The claret adds some bright red fruit notes (raspberry, red currant) and red licorice to accompany the smoke, brine, olive, and vanilla-laced malt. I have tasted some claret/Bordeaux wood-finished whiskies where the wine was too dominant, but this one achieves a nice balance. 

Style: Speyside single malt scotch Color: Pale gold Aroma: Surprisingly fresh and clean. Golden raisins, lightly oaky. Malted barley. Palate: Beautifully balanced and clean. Layers of fruit interwoven through a richly malty foundation. Long and clean on the finish with a hint of dry oaky spiciness. 

Very pale in color, suggesting it was aged in a used bourbon cask. One nosing confirms it. A fairly light, fresh, and appetizing whisky, with notes of brine, mustard seed, and delicate honeyed vanilla. Slightly oily in texture. Seaweed, with suggestions of ginger and bourbon on the finish. An aperitif whisky, or with sushi perhaps? (Bottled exclusively for Binny’s Beverage Depot.) 

Aged in bourbon and sherry casks, and then finished off in oloroso sherry casks for two years. The sherry provides a good measure of lush fruit, brown sugar, and a slick texture on the palate. The sherry is clean and uncluttered, if somewhat overshadowing the traditional Deanston honeyed malt foundation. I’m also picking up some burnt marmalade, lemongrass, and ginger. Soft, sweet, fruity, finish. 

This 18 year old was matured in refill hogsheads before a period of finishing in first-fill bourbon casks. It is non-chill filtered. The nose is light and fruity with pears, melon, and mild vanilla, plus caramel and a hint of toffee. Rich and full on the textured palate, with big orchard fruits, honey, buttery spice notes, then emerging aniseed. Dries in the finish, with plain chocolate and slightly tannic oak notes, plus a sprinkling of chili heat.

A mouth-coating -- almost chewy -- Glen Elgin, chock full of toffee, nut paste, heather-honey, and a hint of milk chocolate. The richness is brightened with ginger and mandarin orange, making for a pleasurable, soothing experience.

I don’t normally like to add water to old whiskies, but this one needs a little at this strength. Whether you will like this whisky or not depends on whether you like woody whiskies with lots of sherry, and whether you care at all about recognizing the distillery character. The flavors are nicely balanced, rich, and very soothing in nature, but I struggle to find Glen Grant in here. Ripe fallen fruit, chewy toffee, maple syrup, honey-glazed almonds, damp oak resins-it’s all there, and it’s all balanced and quite entertaining. I personally want to taste the distillery character in my whisky. If that didn’t matter to me, I would have given this whisky a higher score. 

Like many older Glen Grant offerings, this one is from a sherry cask. The sherry, and the long oak aging, transforms what is normally a light and easy drinking whisky to a more serious affair. Ripe, heavy fruit dominate the palate-the sherry is very evident here, but it is not cloying. It’s quite nutty too, along with polished oak and toffee. The oak balances the sherry notes very nicely, and the whisky is clean and uncomplicated throughout, all the way through to its finish. 

As this is slightly closed when neat, you have to search for Glen Grant’s classic apple notes behind a tense nose which, even with water, remains inward-looking. Thankfully, this changes on the tongue with pure, very linear (typical of GG) flavors of cool mint, cucumber, basil, and yes, apple. Easy-going from a relaxed cask, but with more substance than you’d expect.

Oloroso Finish has spent 16 months gaining additional maturation in oloroso casks. The use of sherry wood has lent the nose a greater sweetness, with vanilla, dates, apples, and cinnamon. Floral, spicy notes, with toffee, ginger, and sweet sherry on the palate, giving extra body and resonance. The fruity finish is of medium length, with mixed spices and white pepper. £45

A 22 year old Glencadam; maturation took place in a refill American oak hogshead. The nose offers rich honey and malt notes, though slightly balsamic. Syrup-like on the palate, heathery and spicy, with more honey. Relatively long and spicy in the finish, with chili, though honey persists right to the end. (U.S. only)

An interesting whisky, with flavor notes I wouldn’t normally find together-golden raisins, green grapes, plum, citrus tang, fresh ginger, almonds, and a hint of mint leaves, all wrapped by a pleasing maltiness with underlying notes of vanilla custard. Fairly dry, slightly hot finish. Many of the Glendronachs (especially from the distillery) are sherried. Some of the sherried versions, like the 33 year old, are excellent. However, this is a refreshing change of pace. I’m glad they bottled it when they did though, as any additional oak dryness would be detrimental. 

This whisky is doddery and on the edge, bordering on feeble. You have to look hard to find its spark and fire, but if you search for it, it is there. The nose is light and savory, with crushed fall leaves and chestnut on the nose. On the palate, there are traces of licorice stick, a touch of cumin, anise, and a creamier, less bitter chocolate note than some other samples. It finishes with traces of mandarin, but overall the sun is setting and the spirited and energetic man of old seems to be getting bitter. Overall, though, still pretty impressive for its age. £380 

This is the most seasonal of this batch of GlenDronachs, with a nose of rich stewed prunes and fermenting fruit in an orchard at harvest time. There is some anise and cherry lozenge in the mix, too, and the palate is complex, with plums, stewed fruits, and damson jam. The finish is drying, dusty, and spiky. £80 

Clean, fragrant, and quite fruity, with notes of tangerine, lemon, pineapple, and kiwi. There's a creamy-almost oily-vanilla maltiness on the palate that binds the fruit together. Gently dry, subtly spicy finish. A pleasing, unpretentious whisky.

Second of this pair of limited editions from Glenfiddich. This was named after a number of the distillery’s warehouse roofs collapsed under the weight of snow in 2010. This was a bottling of a selection of casks — ex-sherry, ex-bourbon, refill — from one of those damaged warehouses. It is gentle and sweet — cooked pear, fruit crumble topped with rolled oats, golden syrup, and on the palate hints of raisin. A lemon finish adds a freshness to a dangerously drinkable dram. 

A 15 year old Glen Garioch which is unique as the first from the distillery to be fully matured in French Bordeaux wine casks. The casks in question are tonneaux de vin rouge from Saint-Julien, and distillation took place on June 23, 1998. Just 450 cases are available globally. Sweet berries on the early nose, with milk chocolate, ginger, and spicy oak. Malt, ginger, plums, and honey on the rich palate, while the long finish offers spicy malt and honey.

Very frail. Don’t add any water to this whisky, as its flavors seem to crumble. It’s a subtle whisky too -- one has to tease the flavors out of it. But when you do, with some focus, you’ll find fragrant notes of dried spice, malty vanilla, citrus peal, and elegant floral notes. Surprisingly, the whisky is not overly dry and woody on the palate. The initial impression of this whisky is that it’s too tired and past its prime. With continued exploration and patience, its subtle pleasures emerge.

Glenkinchie goes from 10 to 12 years old. I think the two years have done it good. It’s deeper, more complex, with better flavor development. Notes of fresh cut grass, vanilla, bright lemon, and cinnamon, with a soft malt underbelly. So many people (myself included) would rather have seen Rosebank as the Lowland representative of the Classic Malts than Glenkinchie. But this is a step towards bridging the gap. 

Its deep amber/ruby color suggests a lot of sherry, and one whiff confirms. The whisky is rich and sappy in texture, with lush notes of ripe sherry fruit balanced by dry, mature spicy oak. There’s a pleasant soothing texture to the whisky too, but I do struggle to find the subtle complexities which make some bottlings of Glenlivet so special. There’s just so much oak and sherry dominating. At its best after dinner or with a cigar. 

The youngest of the quintet has been aged in refill sherry hogsheads, but the coconut that immediately assails the nostrils suggests they were made from American oak. Alongside this is the distillery’s signature pineapple note which sits under a scented, floral lift. Water adds a further layer of ripe pear. The palate is equally heightened with a powdery feel. It’s pretty discreet and I’d be cautious with any dilution. The finish is a mix of night-scented stocks, custard, and green apple. £95 

Bottling of a large package of 12 butts and 30 hoggies dating from 1972. The nose is slightly closed initially, but shows good mature distillery character: old apple, potpourri, more raspberry, and furniture polish. The palate is a little dry, with humidor and light chocolate, but needs water to bring out the fruit-sugar sweetness. It’s good, but that low bottling strength has sapped it of the energy which is vital for old whiskies. (U.S. only) 

The aim here was to recreate the style of malt made by George Smith, but rather than running peated malt, Chivas Bros. has aged the spirit in Islay casks (not what George would have done). On the upside, this is a classic Nadurra: estery fruits with pineapple to the fore, freesia, pear, and fresh apple, the smoke giving subtle gun-flint notes to the palate. I like it as a dram, but it’s wimped out of what was intended. Marked accordingly.

A typical Rothes nose, with vanilla, granola, apple, Brazil nut, lemon, and
low-level sweet spices mixing with lightly oxidized fruits. That said, it needs
water, especially for the palate, where the malty crispness of the undiluted
taste is replaced by something more considered, darkly fruity and gently spicy;
coriander is uppermost. All in all, this is Rothes in very approachable rather
than dynamic guise. One for a lazy afternoon.

Principally matured in bourbon casks, this expression has undergone a finishing period in sherry casks. Sweet wood polish on the nose, with brief pineapple juice notes and rosehip syrup. Smooth and fruity on the palate, with vanilla, spicy milk chocolate, sultanas, and some earthiness. The finish is medium in length, with sherry and a tang of bitter orange. £47

Pleasant aroma (subtle, but with nice depth), with notes of honeyed lime, kiwi, chopped nuts, chocolate fudge, and gentle, seasoned tobacco. Everything is working nicely on the palate too, with a similar flavor profile (the nuts now being roasted) and some smoldering smoke, until about mid-palate, when its age becomes evident with some wet wood notes blending in the mix through to the finish. (Exclusive to Virginia ABC.) 

Named after the Viking chieftain whose exploits are central to the Orkneyinga Saga, Svein is the least typically Highland Park of the initial three Warrior releases. The nose is oily, with starch and ozone, then ultimately freshly-squeezed orange and lemon juice. The palate offers a suggestion of smoke, sawdust, and vanilla. Nutty and slightly peppery in the finish, with just a suggestion of peat. €40/liter

Originally exclusive to the Swedish market, this expression was selected by Highland Park’s Danish brand ambassador Martin Markvardsen. Matured in a combination of 70% bourbon barrels and 30% oloroso sherry casks. Waxy and malty on the early nose, with fresh earth, damp moss, vanilla, and honey. Gentle peat on the palate, more earthy notes; herbal, with lime and salt. The finish is quite short, showing apricots, slight peatiness, allspice.

The news that there’s a new distillery being built on the Imperial site is something to be celebrated. One hopes that the new plant makes whisky of the same character as the old, because Imperial is a classic single malt which is about fragrance (here pineapple and toasted marshmallows) and a clinging, seductive, cream soda quality. Whiskies like these are poems, they need you to concentrate. This is a touch rigid, but that’s a minor criticism of a gorgeous dram.  £60

The nose offers less rich, peachy fruit than the 12 year old. More perfumed, with toasted marshmallows. Silky and sweet on the palate, with tinned pears and pineapple, plus developing toffee and oak. The finish is quite long, with persistent ginger, drying slightly. £77

Typically pale and slightly broader than in previous years, with a little more fleshiness that rubs alongside squid ink and white pepper. Huge smoke mingles with the sharp tang of brine and a touch of bran. Water brings out lanolin. There’s little oak getting in the way of the distillery character here and while water settles the waves, it just doesn’t have the extra dimension that elevates the decent to the great. It does make a great highball tho’. (31,428 bottles)

Tastes more mature than its age would suggest. It’s packed with ripe, sweet barley (especially at the palate entry). There are some high citrus fruit notes and anise that emerge before the signature Laphroaig peat smoke and tar wallops you. Very vibrant and youthful, but without being too green. A steal for $45. (A Binny’s Beverage Depot exclusive.) 

Tobermory’s peated offering. Great to see Ledaig hitting its stride, with a brisk punch of peat and not chill-filtered. There’s a bit of a raw edge too, quite bracing but still plenty of soothing sweetness. Earthy peat smoke, ripe barley, honeyed vanilla, bourbon barrel char, black licorice stick, espresso bean, olive brine, and suggestions of beef jerky. In some respects, it even tastes younger than 10 years old, but I’m balancing that with bonus points for distinctiveness. 

Spicy and botanical on the nose, with notes of ginger, juniper, lemon grass, orange, and grapefruit rind. Similar follow-through on the palate, with added notes of vanilla, honeyed malt, and hay. Gentle, dried herb and spice finish. Certainly some interesting -- perhaps even peculiar -- flavors from this product of the demolished Lowland distillery.

A catch-up rather than a new release, but a fascinating contrast to the 14 year old Flora & Fauna bottling. Yes, there’s apple blossom, but here there’s more medlar, fruit syrups, raspberry, and an intriguing play between vanilla and lightly oxidized nuttiness. Linkwood’s substance is shown on the palate, where an oily feel adds texture to the lush dried fruits and saffron-led spiciness. Best neat. An elegant dram.  

Matured in a refill hogshead, the out-turn was 262 bottles. The nose is malty, with the oiliness of figs, plus dates and tinned peaches. Supple on the palate, with vanilla, honey, and spicy resin notes. The finish is medium in length, warming, and slightly herbal, with nutmeg and malt. £90

Antique gold color. Fruity aroma with delicate notes of spice (anise, eucalyptus). More fruit on the palate-soft in texture and gently sweet-with interwoven fresh spice notes and a pleasing rounded finish. A gentle, medium-bodied dram. 

A combination of 6, 10, and 14 year old Longrow. I was concerned that there would be too much young whisky in here (like there was with the Springbank C.V. several years ago), but this isn’t the case. Youthful? Yes. Immature? No. A Longrow with an attitude. Creamy, sweeter vanilla notes up front, with kiln smoke, sea-soaked stone, tar, anise, chocolate fudge, and apricot. I would like to see more of the older whisky in here, because it leans towards the young side, but it is still a vibrant, enjoyable whisky. 

A nicely clean Longmorn, expressing floral notes (especially violets) and bright fruit (lemon, lime, cantelope, plums), supported interwoven notes of honey, rich malt, bread pudding, dates and vanilla. The classic Longmorn viscosity is there, and this thickness is tamed by a very pleasing spicy, dry oak finish, with a hint of salt. I could drink this stuff anytime. G&M’s move to 46% has certainly benefited this whisky. (Bottled exclusively for Binny’s Beverage Depot.) 

Longmorn is one of Speyside’s fruit bombs, something which remains true here, even if in slightly paler guise than usual. Instead of ripe autumn fruits, here you get kiwi, William pear, green plum, even green tomato, and a faint blossom reminiscent of the almond notes of sakura (cherry blossom). I’d keep water well away, such is this light, lacy Longmorn’s fragility. £73

Oak-driven, with cream and butterscotch dominating the nose initially. Then there’s black cherry, and coriander seed frying in butter. The weighty distillate adds depth, but not specific flavors. The palate is all coconut cream, cream toffee, then Longmorn’s cooked plum density comes in. I’d have preferred the oak to be scaled back, allowing the distillate to show, but if you’re looking for a scotch made for bourbon lovers, then go no further.

Aged in a refill butt, and very pale in color. Very fragrant -- fruity and spicy -- with notes of vanilla, lemongrass, ginger, sultana, citrus zest, key lime, and green grapes. There’s a floral component, too (rose petals?). A very delicate Macallan, and quite suitable as an aperitif. (749 bottles produced.)

A nicely honeyed malty foundation is balanced by fruit on the front of the palate, with a pleasingly dry, spicy finish. It would benefit by being bottled at 43%, like the older two expressions. It is simple, straight-forward, and unpretentious, as one would expect in a 10 year old whisky. 

Full gold. Oily in texture, with ripe barley, front-loaded toffee, honey-drenched citrus, fallen orchard fruit, and a full complement of spice (cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove). Gripping, resinous, slightly hot finish. The flavors don’t meld together here as well as the other three expressions, but it’s still a fun ride. (Price is per 1 litre). 

With the hue of pigeon blood (a ruby, not a dead bird), initially this seems closed, but richness develops, mixing stewed Assam tea, chocolate biscuit, raisin, damson jam, and a whiff of tomato puree. The oak gives it the character of a Barolo Chinato. A knife and fork are needed to consume it, but for all the big tannins, there’s dark rose petal and the bittersweet edge of licorice. Dry, rich, and hermetic. For the hardcore sherry lover. 145 bottles.   

Soft fruits are to the fore here; think of cooking green plums, fruit syrup, a hint of sultana to add to the sweetness, and then a hint of beeswax. There’s even a little of Macallan’s occasional earthiness, here akin to the damp sand floor of a sherry bodega. This is the transition point in the range with a similar weight to Gold but greater sweetness and the beginnings of Macallan’s mysterious savory edge. Have neat, with water, or ice. £45

Clean with the warming, sensual aroma of yeasty freshness that you get from freshly-baked bread. Stir in some almond butter, a little hay. The palate shows that it has substance behind this very open nose. Here is thickness, tongue-clinging oils, and a vibrant lemon note bringing to mind boiled travel sweets, before the dry maltiness comes through. With water — and it’s best lightly diluted — we’re looking at pastries. £36

Bottled at 350 ml as a pair with a Spanish oak version (and probably sold out at source), here you get the merest glimpse of Macallan’s meatiness (shepherd’s pie) before flowers and apple blossom take charge. Lifted, yes, but never delicate. Water brings out cereal and mealy pudding, with barley sugar on the end. £350 (one of two 350 ml bottles)

The Darkness! series involves finishing in specially-made octave (50-liter) casks. This has positive Macallan character with some oil (putty even) and touches of malt and turned earth, but also a scented, cognac-like fruitiness with added spice. Water adds a little sherried cheesiness. The palate shows some nutty, oxidized flavors to begin with, but then in the middle the PX flumps onto the tongue, slowing and dampening the drive. Pleasant enough though. £110/500 ml

One in a trio from Chivas Bros., who every year release limited editions of 500 ml cask strength bottlings from a selection of its estates. These are predominantly only for sale on site or by mail order through www.maltwhiskydistilleries.com.

Miltonduff was licensed in 1824, and these days is also an important blender’s malt with a little more oily depth than its neighbor, Glenburgie. This has a deep floral bouquet — think iris and lily — and aromatic fruits like quince. With water there’s moss, sage, and orange peel. The fruity character is dominant in the mouth and becomes more tropical; there’s even some coconut on the finish. £40 

Turns quite murky with water, but don’t let this scare you off. Fragrant and flowery on the nose. A sweet whisky with a honeyed malt and creamy vanilla foundation, a mélange of tropical fruit (mandarin, lime, pineapple), and soft oak on the finish. Pleasant enough, but I wish the flavors were crisper, cleaner, and more well-defined. (A Park Avenue Liquor exclusive.) 

Lightweight, with a slightly oily texture. Appetizingly fresh and briny on the palate, with underlying notes of hay, lime, vanilla-tinged malt, and a hint of seaweed on the finish. A mouth-watering aperitif. 

A marriage of whiskies from bourbon, sherry, and port casks, which does help give it some complexity. A bit fleshy on the nose (sooty peat, soy sauce, sherry, tannins). It calms down on the palate (and is soothed by the sherry notes), with some additional vanilla, bitter orange, and brine. More brine and warming pepper on the finish. There’s a lot going on here, which I like, but I’m not sure all the flavors dovetail with each other well enough to deserve a higher rating. 

A new expression in the portfolio. Quite fruity, with prominent honey-tinged citrus peel, nutty toffee, nougat, and vanilla fudge, leading to a gripping, firm, dry oak resin finish. Deeper and bolder than the 12 year old expression. 

This is Tomatin’s first cask strength offering, and is also non-chill filtered. The initial batch of 15,000 bottles was released in February, and was matured in a mix of oloroso and bourbon casks. The nose showcases ginger, malt, Jaffa oranges, almonds, and melon, while the pleasingly viscous palate offers caramel, vanilla, warm leather, and chocolate-coated lime creams. Long and gently spicy in the drying finish. (Worldwide except U.S.) £50

This Highlander is Lowland-ish in style, but with more heft. There’s soft barley sweetness, notes of vanilla and orange creamsicle. Grassy notes emerge from time to time. It is clean and very drinkable. An ideal aperitif, but could be enjoyed anytime between dawn and dinner. Whoever said whisky was an after-dinner drink never tasted this whisky. 

John Black is the veteran master distiller at Tullibardine distillery, and this is the sixth release to bear his name. The single malt in question was matured in bourbon barrel #10,002. Lemonade, dough, and maple on the nose. Progressively more floral, parma violets, pear drops, a hint of cinnamon, and milk chocolate in time. Hazelnuts and allspice on the palate, while citrus fruits emerge, plus more milk chocolate and a suggestion of cloves. Medium length, with nuts and oak.  £115

Tullibardine 228 Burgundy is finished in red Burgundy casks from Chateau de Chassagne Montrachet, the home of Maison Michel Picard, which owns Tullibardine distillery. The nose features charred oak, vanilla, milk chocolate-covered Turkish Delight, and mild, sweet chili. Sweet and spicy on the nutty palate, with eating apples, cranberries, and a silky texture. Allspice and damsons in the lengthy finish. 

Matured in first-fill bourbon casks for an unspecified period, Sovereign offers a nose that is floral with new-mown hay, vanilla, and soft fudge. Fruity on the palate, with milk chocolate, malt, and subtle cinnamon. Cocoa, vanilla, and more spice in the finish. Relatively uncomplicated but very drinkable. 

Floral aroma with a lively array of orchard fruit and citrus.  Underlying notes of soft honey and vanilla.  Good malt foundation for a blend.  An elegant and breezy "anytime" dram.

A marriage of Ben Nevis (85%) and Clynelish (15%). A weighty whisky. Not as nimble as the Speyside expression below, but with flavors that linger. Rummy toffee notes, roasted nuts, earthy moss, jammy fruit, teasingly subtle black strap molasses, and clove. 

Cragganmore is a whisky that typically needs time before it starts to get going and which then goes through many changes on its journey to its complex, layered apogee. Here it is at a slightly contradictory midpoint. The nose is fragrant and fruity: apricots, stewed apple, and yes, lemon; and, with water, a hint of smoke. The palate meanwhile shows more of the earthy depth and sloe berry richness that will slowly emerge. A pleasing dram, nonetheless. £75

Light gold with a very fresh and slightly ozonic nose that brings to mind Thai herbs: lemongrass, galangal, as well as lime. Just slightly nippy when neat. The palate is equally intense, but with a central sweetness. Water cuts down this razor-sharp intensity, adding a softer mid-palate texture, while the finish remains slightly mineraly. A decent aperitif Bunna. £97

Yes, it’s another 1991 Bunna from Wemyss, so check the name when purchasing. This one has a distinctly smoky element alongside the marine note which they both share. Very light lemon, with water, then a hit that’s like walking into a high-class sushi joint. A zesty start with lots of angelica, and then sweetness with, when diluted, soft malt and light ginger on the palate. Rock solid. £103

Unusually, Wemyss Malts simultaneously offered two single cask bottlings of Clynelish in October 2014, both distilled in 1997 and matured in hogsheads. ‘Bench with a Sea View’ provided an out-turn of 371 bottles. The nose is sweet and fruity, with green apples and chocolate mousse. Slightly oily on the palate, with black pepper, salt, and orchard fruits. Persistently peppery in the finish, with citrus fruit, oak, a hint of brine, and cocoa. £68

Polished rosewood. Big sherried notes, but also generous sweetness. Vermouth-like: dark fruits, a hint of spice, light oxidation, with some herbal edges and Morello cherries. Becomes balsamic. The palate is highly concentrated, with more cherry, but has this intense savory astringency. Water is needed. The nose continues to be remarkable, all damask rose and resin, but dilution can’t eradicate the mouth-puckering quality. £130

This NAS version is a little smokier than before, with ground pepper, toasted coriander and fennel seeds, and a dusting of nutmeg. The mouthfeel is light initially; early orange and lime flavors are extinguished quickly. Warm cocoa, malt, chocolate shavings, black cherry, raspberry bubblegum, and concentrated dark fruits complement restrained spices and faint smoke, followed by a hot, spicy cinnamon finish. It’s pretty decent, but the palate doesn’t quite match up to the promise of the nose. £37

I’m playfully perplexed as to whether the titular “vintage” refers to an elderly strawberry or an aged punnet. Undaunted, this example from the Highland powerhouse noses much better than promised with fresh mint, small, tight strawberry buds, sandy loam, and a saccharine sweetness. It has a sweet, syrupy, fat flavor, in turn revealing caramel, buttery notes, white chocolate, vanilla, and black currant. A satisfying finish of browning butter and warm chestnuts. (242 bottles) £82

This year’s bottling mixes 4 and 5 year old bourbon casks with the younger element finished in oloroso, though this is hardly sherried. Here is smoke, samphire, and Kilchoman’s fleshy core giving echoes of 80s cuisine: scallops and white peaches anyone? Watering shows sea-washed rock, light flowers, and hot sand. The palate is sweet, sour, and smoky, with a chalky edge and a peppery palate, but water releases blossom and a little gunsmoke: a duel in the dunes? £39

A distillate of Islay-grown barley, made in 2009-10 and aged in bourbon wood. Here’s an intense Kilchoman with a licorice root sweetness mixed with dried seaweed, machair (beach pasture), cereal, and herbal smoke. The palate is slightly oily and hot when neat, with a distinct mineral edge. Water shows its youth but also allows tarragon and wormwood to develop. £64

This 2012 limited edition from the Deeside distillery of Royal Lochnagar underwent initial maturation in bourbon barrels before a period of finishing in muscat wine casks. The pleasing nose offers pears poached in dessert wine, heather, malt, and ginger. Rich and rounded on the palate, with immediate soft, ripe peaches, then figs, ginger, and cloves. Lengthy in the slightly nutty finish, with fruity spice notes.

Big and smoky, but with a rich, balancing, malty underbelly. Tarry rope, leafy bonfire, rooty peat, burnt licorice, smoked seaweed, coal ash, and vanilla-tinged malt, all with emerging brine, subtle Spanish olive, and a hint of ginger. A robust, yet well-rounded, Islay-style whisky with a pleasing oily texture, though I do wish it had a higher strength for a little more attitude.

Matured in a “rejuvenated American oak” cask. “ Tropical fruit” is the operative descriptor here. Bananas in cream, honey-kissed citrus (lime, clementine), papaya, mango, a hint of coconut, green tea, and gentle vanilla. Soft finish. Rather exotic. Almost tries too hard to be cool. Distinctive, but I could tire of it sooner than the others here. (246 bottles) £200

From the Balmenach distillery. (The previous bottling of this whisky was from a sherry cask. This one is from a bourbon cask.) Mouth-coating in texture. Ripe barley and malty up front, ultimately transitioning to a clinging dryness towards the finish. Notes of vanilla cream, toasted coconut, marshmallow, cut grass, honeydew melon, and lemon/lime. A pleasant, textural whisky. (Bottling at 46% and not chill-filtered enhances this.) My question: why sherry cask or bourbon cask? I think a marriage of both types of cask would add more dimension and complexity.

Clean, simple, and straightforward: malty and smooth, with cut grass, hay, a kiss of honey, and a hint of gin botanicals. A nice whisky to introduce blend drinkers to the world of single malts.

The Famous Grouse has been extended in various directions with varying degrees of success but for my money, this is the best and most logical. This is the version where the smoky, oily, spicy, and peaty notes of the original blend are brought more to the fore, but this works because married to it are grape and melon notes that ensure the Grouse lands softly.

Poor old Speyburn. An unfairly overlooked malt simply because of its (too low) price. The use of more active casks here gives an almost waxed crayon nose, along with some sweet depth. In time, there are fresh green fruits, raspberry mousse, and beautiful floral intensity. Water produces lemon. The palate is clean and quite light, but there’s a pool of fruits in the center giving a focal point. As water makes things (lemon) soapy, I’d have it neat. £40

Diageo’s Singleton range is its answer to the problem of how to build a global single malt brand when each distillery will ultimately be limited by its capacity. Answer? A single brand: ‘Singleton,’ but from three distilleries, each focused on a different area of the world. Singleton of Dufftown is Europe’s expression, and this 15 year old combines cake mix, peanut butter, and fleshy fruits. There’s dried banana and vanilla on the palate, and a nutty sweet finish. £38 (Not available in the U.S.)

The U.S. Singleton comes from Glendullan, a distillery that makes a sweet, light spirit. Here, a percentage has been aged in ex-sherry casks, which has added a layer of fruity sweetness — think port-like sloe notes, Muscatel, and wisteria. The wood is lightly handled, allowing the aromas full rein on the palate.

One in the trio of age-stated Singleton of Glen Ords, this 18 year old has a nose of sultanas, hazelnuts, sherry, vanilla, and a note of pine. Silky on the full palate, with vanilla, milk chocolate, sherry, and caramel. The lengthy finish is drying, with licorice and chili. RM481

Glendullan has reimagined itself with a trio of Travel Retail exclusives. This, the most expensive, has been given some secondary maturation in Muscat wine casks. It’s the most complex of the trio, with more citric elements, hints of hay, and some spice, while the richness and dried scented fruit of the Muscat is a good accompaniment to the sloe-like side of the distillery character. A thick vanilla component helps the palate along to a chocolatey finish.

A tasty example from the historic North British distillery in Edinburgh, with a bouquet of vanilla, sweet hay, and mint ice cream. A sip made me nostalgic for childhood candies such as sherbet-filled, fizzy flying saucers and prohibited ivory-white candy sticks. I was seized by the initial lemon zing of acidic tartness, which becomes creamier before a richer, candied peel taste appears. There’s a clean, sweet finish and the mint pops up with water. Overall, satisfying but uncomplicated.

A light golden dram from a refill hoggie, redolent of fragrant honey, custard slices, orange water, perfumed soaps, and fresh spring blossom. Vanilla, dried peel, and shortbread petticoat tails on the palate, that develops with spun sugar flavors. The whole concoction is anchored by a little oak, but the cask has been gentle. The finish is mouth-drawing, but settles down like a well-sucked butterscotch. Mellow and serene. (305 bottles) £91

This is one of the more intriguing of the Double Barrel series, because while the others either complement each other or don’t,
this has a depth to it that you need to look for. At first it’s all Laphroaig, and the peat and sea burst out of the glass. But just as you’re asking yourself what the point is, the fruity notes of the Mortlach cushion the whole landing and let you down gently. Impressive. £48

Molten blossom honey, almond milk puddings, and Parma violets interlaced with a fine, drifting chimney smoke compose the nose of this new blend from William Grant & Sons. Smooth, burnished orange and honey cough drops initially, then the flavor develops through more pronounced citrus and gentle spices to achieve a sweeter climax. The grain is quite evident in the harmony of the blend. The finish is long, more beeswax than honey, the sweetness finally depleted. (Travel Retail only) £20

A spicier character to represent 1920s Bombay (now Mumbai) yields an intriguing nose of cumin, dried apple, cardamom, and roasted coriander seed, walnut shells, dry meat from the tandoor, and aged cigars in Spanish cedar. A rather gluey texture with a dominant cinnamon note, interjected by spicy fruit from the European oak and gentle cloves. A short finish leaves a reverberation of spices and chicory root. The aromas are wonderful, but it comes unstuck with the mouthfeel. £75

Rose petals, pomegranate, toasted coriander seeds, and glacé cherry mix it up with a tangle of Bramley apple peelings. A medium weight grain whisky with a satiny texture. Huge, throbbing, pulsating ginger kicks in at full strength. Yowser! Water knocks the fiery ginger out, but quells this Loch Lomond to a duller spice profile. A finish of ground almond, subdued gingerbread, and active spices. Great nose, but I was hoping for greater versatility of flavor. £38

The first thing to note is the strength. It’s surprisingly not that hot initially, rather there are hints of soft orchard fruits, gentle smoke, and seashells. With water, the fruits show up—mango and peach—but the alcohol is still masking things. Water goes in immediately to produce a palate that is cool, slightly sweet, with seashore notes, wet stones, and those fruits, but there’s still a real tension to the whole experience. For the brave. £110

This 17 year old refill hogshead-matured expression of Dalmore was distilled in May 1997, and 237 bottles have been released. It is an interesting example of Dalmore uncut, without the proprietary sherry maturation-spin usually put on it. The nose is sweet, with caramel, tinned peaches and pineapple, and a smearing of honey. Zesty spices open the palate, which becomes nutty, with Jaffa oranges, gingery oak, and dark chocolate. Long and warming in the finish, with more oak and plain chocolate. £78

Pale straw. Light but intense, with some pollen, dusty fruits, baked apple. Water brings out an aroma like a fruit orchard in springtime. Performs much better in the mouth, and although hot, shows good distillery character with some cooked peach, quince jam, and yellow plums. A decent lunchtime dram. £50

This 10 year old peated expression from Tobermory distillery on Mull was matured in a single refill hogshead and bottled in January 2016. Medicine chests, sweet smoke, ginger, and apple on the nose, with damp earth. The palate provides a big hit of peaty spice, seaweed, black pepper, ginger, and dark berries. Becoming slightly bitter in the drying, ashy, medium-length finish. (349 bottles) £48

Sweet top notes of brioche loaf with baking spices, but there are savory flavors of pastrami bark lurking deep in the glass. Flavors of golden syrup and butterscotch unfurl beautifully from within the thick texture at cask strength. Roasted spices explode, but as it dilutes, stewed fruits and sucked boiled candy notes are found. Water emphasizes confectionary elements and purple fruits, but kills the spices stone dead. Dry, spicy heat on the finish. (490 bottles) £85

From an undisclosed Speyside distillery. The nose is extraordinarily yeasty, with distinct apple cider backed by light caramel. The palate is more integrated than the nose with oak and cinnamon spice, apple, honey, and malt. At first these flavors are well balanced, but a spice and heat blast in the mid-palate throws things off. The finish reflects this and is quite dry. The parts are better than the whole in an interesting and strong whisky.  (U.S. only)

Bottled at 8 years of age as part of Exclusive Malts’ U.S. Batch 5, this is a relatively youthful expression of the peated Ledaig spirit produced at Tobermory distillery. The nose is full-on and vibrant, with seaweed, brine, peat, black pepper, and new leather. The palate opens with a big punch of spicy peat, then sweet cereal notes and more black pepper. Hot smoke and spice in the medium-length finish, with a hint of coal.

Matured solely in refill sherry casks, this whisky has a light, fruit-forward nose with nectarine, honey, malt, and a touch of spice. The entry is softer than you’d expect for the proof and it presents the fruit at the nose, along with salt and a dash of black pepper. The spice takes over in the mid-palate along with some heat, really throwing off the balance established in the entry. A light finish closes out a slightly disjointed taste experience. (U.S. only)

Matured in refill, remade American hogsheads, this 1998 bottling from Tobermory on the Isle of Mull is of the peated Ledaig variant. The nose offers dry peat, brown wrapping paper, fish oil, and wood preservative. Oily on the palate, with bitter orange, sweet peat, ginger, and black pepper, plus fabric band-aids. Lingering pepper and Germolene in the ashy finish. £45

This single cask from Macduff distillery was distilled in 1997 and is offered non-chill filtered and with natural color. Melons, lemon, a hint of ozone, and a suggestion of warm steel on the nose. The palate is supple and fruity, with ginger, white pepper, and developing vanilla notes. The finish is medium in length, nutty, with citrus fruits. (Exclusive to Robertson’s, Pitlochry, Perthshire) £50

This batch of 1,420 bottles was created with slightly older malts, a 16 year old grain from a refill hogshead and a 14 year old Lowland malt disgorged from an Islay cask. Sugar mice, dried hay, sharpened pencils, hints of lemon, with subtle smoke like the burning of a distant stubble field. Sweet cereal notes, black pepper, and ginger parkin build to a conclusion of Brazil nut, mocha, and chocolate ganache. (UK & Netherlands only) £45

Playing on regional styles, this blends six single malts representative of the Speyside, Islay, Lowland, Campbeltown, Islands, and Highland whisky regions. Sun-dried peats greet the nose with aromas of stewed apples, flaky pastries, apricot conserve, vanilla, and cinnamon. Creamy vanilla and coconut flavors develop, with a slow-burn spiciness crackling in the center of the tongue. Seville orange and caramel cookie flavors escort a long finish of dry, tingling spices, though it could use a little more heft in the mouthfeel.

An 18 year old single malt for just $33 should set alarm bells ringing. But this sherry-finished Kirkland expression from an undisclosed distillery is definitely a decent dram at a bargain-basement price. Initially slightly vegetal and earthy on the nose, developing a warm leatheriness, with sherry, figs, melon skin, and caramel. Silky on the palate, with milk chocolate, emerging hazelnuts, sweet sherry, and honey. The finish is medium in length, with spicy orange and mocha coffee notes.

The eldest son of the 5th earl of Wemyss, Lord Elcho was supportive to the Young Pretender. Proportionally, more sherry at play here. Plum skin, chunky raisins, blackcurrant, and fainter sweetened cocoa and coffee bean notes. The palate is a little hollow at first, then proffers barley sugar, rich shortbread, baked apple, linseed, and toffee, though the flavor development plateaus. Water picks out sweet clementine notes. Given the choice of expressions, I prefer the vibrancy of the Young(er) Pretender. £26

Distilled in February 2005. Earthy peat, brine, vanilla, cereal, and a hint of cinnamon on the confident nose. Finally, wood smoke. Lively in the mouth, with nutty spices and pipe tobacco, while peat briefly takes a back seat before reasserting itself. Ginger and peat embers in the medium-length finish. (Whisky Shop only) £35/500 ml

Slabs of plain chocolate, Kendal mint cake, vanilla essence, and malt with a dry, dusty character makes this suggest itself for an after-dinner occasion. The palate is very sweet; sugarplum, caramelized brown sugar, flapjacks, bramble, and pink rhubarb before it finally coagulates into a thick Horlicks maltiness. There’s an impressive trajectory of flavor here, though the mouthfeel is nothing special and dilution doesn’t enhance it to any real degree. Dry and malty finish.

A stunningly lovely nose: all sweet, rounded, and layered with exotic tropical fruits, scented woods, wax, and perfume. Water makes it oilier and more waxy in nature. Sadly though, the oak has taken charge on the palate, making it more grippy and nutty. Worth a long sniff though! £228

John Dewar & Sons Ltd has released a 12 year old bottling from its Macduff distillery, formerly marketed as Glen Deveron, but now simply known as the Deveron. Soft, sweet, and fruity on the nose, with vanilla, ginger, ripe peaches, and apple blossom. Medium-bodied, gently spicy, with butterscotch and Brazil nuts before a hint of licorice kicks in. Quite dry spicy oak in the finish, with a contrasting note of caramel. £40

Hunter Laing blended this grand Highland whisky: an 85% malt-driven recipe of more mature stock. I liked its aromas of dripping caramels, dry peats, soft hay, and faint pepper balancing the resilient smoky character. There’s the juiciness of mandarin oranges, too. The blend is smooth and well-textured, beginning with sugared orange, malt, vanilla, and toasted spices which glide into clove and black pepper. The drying finish has spicy pepper, ground ginger, and lasting citrus.

This refill barrel is perhaps more suited to those well versed in drinking grains regularly. The nose is herbal, with tarragon, endive leaves, and artichoke hearts, though there is balance from oat biscuits and honey. The palate begins clean and pure, builds complexity with vegetal notes and honey sweetness before delivering flavors of dates, nougat, wheat crackers, and dry, toasted spices. The drying finish has Quaker oats and sizzling spices. An acquired taste, this one, but not without merit. (162 bottles) £87

The first release from Wolfburn distillery is 3 years old. Matured in a mix of Spanish and American oak quarter casks previously used by an Islay distillery. The nose is soft and belies its youth, offering vanilla, lemon, ginger, and light smoke. The early palate is grassy. Sweeter fruit notes soon develop with more vanilla and ginger, plus white pepper. The finish is quite long and slightly smoky. Much to look forward to as this ages!

Distilled in 2008 from barley peated to 167 ppm and matured in virgin French oak casks. Sweet smoke and oak on the initial nose, with quite assertive spices. Freshly sawn timber, dried fruits, and emerging vanilla. Slightly earthy on the palate, where big spice notes continue with peaches, orange, and milk chocolate. The finish is relatively long, with cloves, licorice, ginger, and chili. Bold is the word! (12,000 bottles)

Bright gold. Very citric, sweet candied orange and tangerine marmalade, with a hint of pink grapefruit. As I said, citric. There’s meadow hay and some sherbet as well. Water brings out lucerne grass. The palate is equally delicate and ‘up,’ and quite acidic (no bad thing) with light, nutty chocolate and macadamia nut. When diluted, there’s poached pear and charred oak. The finish is effervescent. Light, easy-going, keenly priced. The rehabilitation of Cardhu continues. £41

America, Walker wants your cocktails. Emma Walker that is, the blender whose signature adorns the first of these experimental expressions. Toffee Speyside nose, digestive biscuits, cinnamon, cool mint, and a pronounced grain note from Port Dundas. Orange, lime peel, lovely caramel richness, and creamy toffee through dilution. The brand’s second consecutive rye cask finish: you noticed too? Up against its sibling, JW Select Rye Cask, there are certain similarities, but this is fruitier, less intricate, and less rich and spicy.

Fresh and floral, with lively tropical fruit, honey, and vanilla. Gentle on the palate, with a slight syrupy texture to its malty foundation. Youthful, orange marmalade finish with a hint of spice. A pleasant, easy-going whisky. 

Lemon-lime gum drops and fresh-cut grass notes, with an underlying creamy, marshmallow-tinged maltiness. Plenty of vanilla, along with a hint of ginger spice zing. Clean, nicely rounded, and fully mature for its age. 

Whisky from two different sherry casks. The sherry, extra aging, and higher strength produce an intensely rich Auchentoshan. Fudgy caramel, toffee and cocoa notes are offset by golden raisin, apricot, and Clementine. Underlying notes of roasted nuts, old leather, and spice (vanilla, mint) peek through occasionally. An enjoyable whisky, but much of the Auchentoshan is lost somewhere in all that oak and sherry. 

Another Travel Retail exclusive, but what is a highly lucrative retail sector will inevitably demand items that shoppers can’t buy elsewhere. Imagine Balvenie Port Wood 21 year old, but with more sweetness; damson jam, blueberries, and a slight singed note before maple syrup calls in from the back. It’s big and rounded and, for me, just lacking the definition and complexity of the Port Wood. For sweeter tooths (teeth?) perhaps.

Initially mulch and damp undergrowth on the nose, with a whiff of sulfur. Then developing soft toffee and vanilla notes, though the ‘outdoors’ odor remains. Big and oily in the mouth, with a chewy texture. Oak, citrus fruit, hazelnuts, and spices, plus a hint of gunpowder tea. Medium to long in the finish, with more oak, ginger, and quite bitter coffee. A typically ‘off the rails’ independent Ben Nevis. Great if you have a soft spot for a ‘bad boy!’ 

Another Benrinnes from the UK bottler’s new range, here the finish is more forceful, with masses of raisined sweetness, blueberry syrup, and molasses. The Benrinnes character adds weight and a firm earthy base, but this is more cask driven, slightly grippy, and for all the richness of the PX cask, the end result is a little bitter because of the treacle/molasses note. Fun certainly, but a bit over the top. £60/500 ml

Invigorating and youthful, with a raw edge to it. Challenging notes of creosote, charred oak, and earthy peat fire dominate, with underlying ripe barley, honey, and caramel apple. Aggressive, but not over the top.

This cask-strength whisky turns cloudy with the addition of water. Nice balance of both moderate sherry and smoke, with underlying fruit gum drops, shortbread, charcoal, black licorice, and subtle herbs. An assertive whiskey. The flavors aren’t as crisp as I would like, but pretty good for seven years old. (Bottled exclusively for Binny’s Beverage Depot)

Maturation for this 21 year old bottling of Bladnoch occurred in a refill American oak hogshead. Sweet orchard fruits, new-mown hay, malt, and soft toffee on the nose. The palate is initially fruity, with more malt, then nuttiness develops, with aniseed and black pepper. The finish is relatively short and tannic. (U.S. only)

Light and very creamy, with very subtle smoke in the background, this is like eating a white chocolate ice cream while walking toward a distant beach barbecue. The palate is gentle and sweet with good, refreshing saline balance. Water brings out mint. It’s just a little too tight and disconnected on the tongue.

Aged half in used bourbon barrels, half in refill sherry casks. Thicker, more viscous, and with much more depth than the other three Bruichladdichs reviewed here. The whisky oozes syrupy vanilla, marshmallow, caramel, and marzipan, accentuated by coconut and other tropical fruits. Bruichladdich's signature freshness and brine emerges, but oh, so subtly. It finishes firmly dry and oaky, thanks to all those years in wood. Initially this helps to cut some of the sweetish viscosity of this whisky, but it lingers a bit too long for my palate. I would like to have tried this whisky a few (or perhaps even several) years back.

The most heavily peated of the three (35ppm phenol), but rather gentle for such smoke intensity. No doubt this is partly due to its sweet underbelly of vanilla cream puff, honeyed barley, and melon fruit. The other factor is that the smoke influence is not medicinal like some other Islay whiskies, but rather more of a leafy bonfire smoke, with burning embers and teasing brine on the finish. Like Waves, Peat comes across as a bit youthful.

Using this ancient barley variety is a challenge for a distiller. The yields are low, the mash thick and hard to work, but I’m delighted that Bruichladdich has persevered. It adds a more overt cereal note to the whisky, taking the Laddie off into a different world of honey-nut corn flakes. There’s also a surprising rose-like perfume. It’s young, so add water to cut its more, er, bracing qualities. In fact, have it with ice and soda. (Travel Retail exclusive) £58

Notes of smoked olives and an earthy peatiness wrapped inside layers of sweetness (honey, caramel and light toffee). The whisky is laced with seaweed and pepper for added zest, with a long smoky and peppery finish. It shows enough maturity, yet it is young enough to let the true Caol Ila character shine through. I would like to have seen this whisky bottled at a higher strength and not chill-filtered. 

Beautiful complex fruit on the nose. Tannic grip on the palate -- especially on the finish. The tell-tale orange marmalade combines notes of orchard fruit, caramel apple, fried pineapple, banana nut bread, unsweetened chocolate, grape skin, and plain toast, peppered with cinnamon and ground espresso bean. Distinctive and evolving on the palate -- and humming along quite nicely -- until the oak turns a bit austere and aggressive on the finish. For this reason, it’s my least favorite of the range.

This 1995 vintage is exclusively available from Whisky Shop in the UK. The whisky was selected by distillery manager Ian Mackay and his team, and matured in Matusalem sherry and American white oak casks. 1,800 bottles are available. Worn leather, candied orange, malt, and cinnamon on the nose. Spicy orange, sherry, mixed nuts, and licorice on the palate. The finish is slowly drying, with dark chocolate and smoky caramel notes. £85

Remarkably pale in color, this Exclusive Malt is a rare peated Dalmore. Peat reads more funky barnyard than smoke on the nose, with just a touch of sweetness behind it. The taste is much better than the smell, with the addition of smoke to the peat, intertwined with honey, salt, citrus, and ginger spice. The finish is slightly acidic and dry, far less satisfying than the mid-palate. There’s a reason why Dalmore doesn’t peat, but this release is still fascinating. (U.S. only)

Initial maturation of Valour takes place in first-fill bourbon casks, before a period in 30 year old Matusalem oloroso sherry butts from Gonzales Byass. Finally it is transferred to port pipes from the Duoro region of Portugal. The nose is floral, with sherry notes, ripe oranges, and marzipan, while the palate offers dark sherry, with bitter orange, contrasting chocolate-coated fudge, and gingersnaps. The finish is medium to long, with lively spices and berry bitterness. (Travel Retail only) Price is per liter.

Bottling at a higher proof without chill-filtering has improved the whisky, amplifying its subtle flavors. Antique gold color. The flavors are bright and fresh, with notes of citrus, pineapple, lemongrass, and subtle ginger, all on a bed of clean honeyed malt, light toffee and soft vanilla. Gentle, easy-going finish. A pleasant “any time of the day” dram.

Finished in virgin oak casks, so I would expect to find some wood influence here somewhere. Indeed I do, particularly on the finish. There’s no age statement, but on the nose it comes across as a bit youthful. Honeyed vanilla, lemon, pear, fresh-cut grass, and wood shavings on the nose. More of the same on the palate, with sweet notes to the fore, and virgin oak influence (wood shavings, polished leather, and a firm oak grip). Very individualistic, but the flavors don’t seem fully integrated. (Perhaps a bit more aging in non-virgin casks?)

This cask strength bottling has been matured in oloroso sherry casks. The nose offers old leather and a slightly vegetal note, along with ginger and developing toffee. The palate features unexpectedly dry sherry, rapidly giving treacle, plain chocolate, and dark spices. Hot spices, with black pepper and raisins in the lengthy finish.

A “straight from the cask” bottling, finished in a Grand Arôme rum barrel. I can really pick up the rum. If you’ve ever had rum from La Reunion island (easiest to find in France), you immediately pick it out here. Peculiar straw gold/lime green color. Intriguing on the palate, too: botanicals, fennel, liqueur-ish, honeyed malt, red licorice, and tropical fruit. Sort of like a cross between a scotch and something Benedictine monks would make. A nice change of pace. (Bottled for Maxwell Street Trading Co.)

Here’s a whisky not seen very often in the U.S. When it is seen, it’s from one of the independent bottlers. I have always felt that younger Glen Grant whiskies make a nice introduction to the single malt category-especially for a blend drinker trading up. The whisky is usually light to medium in body and uncomplicated-with no harsh edges to be particularly offensive. And so it is with this whisky. A soft, cereal grain maltiness marries nicely with floral, delicately fruity notes throughout. Gentle, dry but malty finish, with suggestions of shortbread cookies and vanilla. A nice representation of a younger Glen Grant. The flavors are clean and tight. 

Four years ago Glen Grant was in a sorry state, its beautiful gardens in need of some love and attention, its malts neglected and seemingly unloved. Then Campari bought it and we have heard very little more since. That’s until now. With a new visitor center, the gardens in full bloom, and the owners determined to make it a major player, things are looking up. This limited edition 170th anniversary bottling is made up of vintages stretching back to the 70s. They include a couple of sherry butts and some peated spirit. The result is a rich malt with some buttery toffee notes at first, distinctive lemon and green apple notes, and a touch of aniseed. Midway through, it sets off in a more feisty direction, with some peat, sharp spice, and green banana skin. Beguiling and unusual, it’s a statement of intent from an iconic distillery — watch this space. (Selected specialist outlets, excluding the U.S.) 

Initially fresh and briny -- the Campbeltown signature being quite evident -- leading to chewy toffee, nutty notes. The brine emerges again -- this time with a hint of seaweed and smoke, followed by another wave of chewy toffee and nuts. The flavors stubbornly refuse to integrate fully, coming across on the palate individually and independently. Sort of like consecutive solos, rather than harmony.

This Glencadam variant has been finished for 20 months in ruby port pipes. The result is a whisky that departs from its younger stablemate by offering a nose of rose petals, milk chocolate, stewed rhubarb, sweet red wine, and black pepper. The same ‘new paper’ note survives, however. Viscous on the palate; initially strawberries, then spicy milk chocolate, caramel, and candied cherries. Remaining sweet in the finish, with nutmeg and darker chocolate notes. £35

No doubt about it, we’re at the furthest outpost of GlenDronach’s territory here, and this particular cask has waved the white flag. It has a dense, sappy, and nutty nose which is very savory and not particularly attractive. But thankfully there’s more to welcome you on the palate, with some rich orange and red fruit and sweet candy providing balance to the savory notes, and gentle oak and hazelnuts also getting a look in. The finish is woody and pruney. £185 

The first widely-available single malt from the revived distillery of Glenglassaugh, Revival comprises spirit from both first and refill casks, finished in first-fill oloroso sherry butts for a period of six months. Initially a little mashy, with beer-like aromas. Quite sweet and mildly sherried, with developing roasted malt notes, ginger, hazelnuts, and caramel. Leather and insistent spice on the palate, majoring in nutmeg and cinnamon. Straightforward in the finish; spicy and nutty. Probably a crackerjack in another dozen years!

A relatively heavily-peated variant of Glenglassaugh matured in 50-liter octave casks, giving significant cask influence due to the high surface-to-volume ratio. This expression is non-chill filtered. Carbolic soap and a mineral note on the softly smoky nose, followed by apple pie and cream notes. The palate is medium-sweet and quite spicy, with black pepper. Now clear, dry peat notes present themselves with a touch of chili. Ashy peat and cinnamon in the medium-length finish. £55

I’m a fan of the original Nadurra’s freshness, which maximizes Glenlivet’s apple blossom and pineapple perfume. This pleasantly funky new brother has been matured wholly in oloroso, which adds (very) sweet sherry, nougat, blackcurrant, grilled pear, and malt. While the palate starts well, with mixed red and black fruits (and a little grapefruit), the sherry adds thickness from back palate on and the distillery slides away. Pleasant, but a tale of two halves. (Travel Retail exclusive) £50 

This new NAS might surprise those who recall the Chivas Bros. “Age Matters” campaign, but that’s whisky for you. The initial impression is of a fresh maltiness, sweet hay, and fresh porridge oats, then comes sawn oak, but it opens into pineapple, becoming more obviously Glenlivet. The palate is pretty and light, but seems a bit hollow in the middle, making the whole package slightly insubstantial. Water enhances and sweetens the nose, but deepens that mid-palate hole. £30

Firm on the palate and quite mature. Good balance with malty-toffee notes accented by dried oak spices. Additional notes of roasted nuts, tobacco, Earl Grey tea, sandalwood, and a hint of peat and bacon fat. (260 bottles produced.) 

Style: Speyside single malt scotch Color: Bright gold Aroma: Fresh cut grass. Damp grist. Vanilla, marshmallow, and banana. Palate: Sweet malt initially, then quickly becoming dry, oaky, grassy, and spicy. Big, long, dry, spicy finish. 

The newest whisky in the regular stable of wood-finished whiskies for Glenmorangie. Very fruity-sometimes reminiscent of overripe fruit; other times cooked fruit. In the mix, there’s maple syrup, plum, almonds, and sweet barley notes. The whisky is peppered with spicy notes of toasted oak, cinnamon and vanilla. A whisky that is lush on the nose, chewy on the palate, with a finish of dried spices for balance. This whisky takes some getting used to, and it’s not an every day whisky. You’ll have to be in the right mood for it. 

Very much in the Glenrothes style, with a viscous texture that clings to the palate. Very perfumed and fragrant, too, with flavors of assorted dried fruit, vanilla, golden raisin, citrus, and honey that dry quickly on the palate. A suggestion of peat lingers in the background and on the whisky’s clinging finish. 

Light gold. From a refill bourbon cask, here we have more marzipan and some light maltiness alongside very fresh fruit and delicate vanilla. This is Rothes in slightly lean and hungry mode, with its signature fruits and spices in the background. Needs water to smooth things out. When that happens, there’s lemon drizzle cake, leafiness, and walnut flour. A little short on the finish.  £90

This expression comprises peated Glenturret malt (55ppm) and some older unpeated Glenturret malt. The distillery has been making peated malt for six years. There is a higher proportion of peated malt in this revised edition than in the previous version. Farmyard aromas on the nose, with an overlay of digestive biscuits and subtle smokiness. Light-bodied, with watery toffee and emerging peat smoke. Medium-length in the finish, spicy, with cigarette smoke. £47

Matured in a combination of first-fill Spanish oak sherry butts, refill American oak hogsheads, and first-fill bourbon barrels. The nose is initially savory, with salted caramels, oak, vanilla, and toffee. Medium-bodied, with brittle toffee and spicy fruit on the creamy palate, where more savory notes emerge. A hint of bourbon in the softly spiced, herbal finish, which darkens to black coffee. £47

Honey, vanilla, heather, and citrus are the major components of this Highland Park, with a hint of youthful peat in the background. Some polished oak kicks in on the palate towards the finish. A pleasant whisky for those who like a mature Highland Park without the sherry cask influence. (A Bayway World of Liquor exclusive.) 

Aged in a bourbon cask. This is a big, vibrantly fruity whisky (lemon, lime, orange, grape), with background notes of anise, fat barley, and vanilla. An unusual and often difficult to find dram. (Bottled exclusively for “Wine on the 9”.) 

An interesting comparison to the Mackillop’s Choice expression reviewed above. This is also a big, bold whisky from the currently mothballed Imperial distillery. This one is less fruity. Instead it is quite sweet with a ripe maltiness up front-and rather viscous in texture-becoming dry, slightly austere, and spicy on the finish, with a wisp of smoke. (Bottled exclusively for Binny’s Beverage Depot.) 

You could argue that there’s an element of auto-suggestion at work when you pick up saltiness in Inchgower, after all, it comes from a fishing port (Buckie). But taste it blind and there it is — an unmistakable salinity on nose and palate which, when combined with lemon accents, cumin seed, thin fruit syrups, and green grapes, makes this an intense, perfect, aperitif. £37 (Not available in the U.S.)

Matured in a mixture of bourbon, refill, and recharred casks. Ripe peaches, malt, and vanilla on the nose, with a hint of linseed oil. Oily on the palate, with more peaches, plus quite dark spices, backed by creamy vanilla. Medium in length, spicy, with emerging dry oak notes. £36

Gold color. Aroma of vanilla, honeyed malt, subtle marshmallow, with background herbal, hay-like notes. Light and creamy in body. Creamy, malty, vanilla notes in flavor-honey sweet initially, but eventually drying out towards the finish, with soft herbal, grassy, hay notes. 

A new, no age statement addition to the Laphroaig family that blends together Quarter Cask, PX, Triple Wood, and 10 year old. The nose is reminiscent of freshly-treated decking, before some classic iodine creeps in. Water brings out geranium, pollen, and damp leather. The palate is simple, clean, and mild (and smoky), with bay leaf, light dried fruit, and that oily wood. Undoubtedly there's a lot going on, but it’s not married, and 40% means it lacks the necessary wallop. £35

Lochside closed in 1992 and its whisky will become increasingly difficult to find. Very fragrant and quite fruity, with lemon, raspberry, red currant, and plum on the nose. It starts out clean and fruity on the palate too, with a gentle maltiness, but this is quickly taken over by dominant toffee and caramel. A nice Lochside whisky, which could have been even better with a little less toffee on the finish. 

When compared to Craiglodge, reviewed above, this whisky is more intensely smoky, tarry, and youthful on the palate. The other flavors, while in the same vein as Craiglodge, are more reserved (or perhaps more greatly overshadowed by the peat). If your intent is full-throttle peat, this is your whisky. If you want variety on the palate, go for the Craiglodge. 

This peated expression of Springbank is fresh, powerful, and unbridled. A brief, gristy, sweet malt intro quickly becomes quite aggressive, with an attack of tar, damp peat, kippers, mustard seed, Spanish olives, and Poire Williams. The sweetness emerges again briefly, before succumbing to an assertive, fiery finish. 

With Longmorn, you are always looking for a dense, sweet fruitiness. This doesn’t disappoint on the nose, where there’s moist compacted fruitcake with marzipan, Brazil nut, glacé cherry, a hint of tobacco, then hard toffee. The palate is soft to start but then an overly firm grip and slightly bitter edges come through. Though water improves it, the oak is slightly too dominant. That said, the nose is superb. £80 

It’s young Macallan. There’s a hint of sulfur (from distillate rather than cask), then wet leather, Brazil nut, muesli, dried pineapple, and raisin; even a little rubber, suggestive of youth. That can’t hide the fact that this is a big, deep, oily dram. Water makes it considerably more coherent, showing a substantial, thick palate with some licorice. Ripe, but you can’t help feeling that 12 is a little young for this slow-maturing distillate.

Fragrant aromas of ripe barley and vanilla, with some background pear, hay, dusty cocoa, ginger, and lemon grass. Similar follow through on the palate, with a creamy mouthcoating texture throughout and a drying finish. Nice anytime. 

A pleasing malt all around, if not overly complex or challenging. Clean, full malt foundation (the Lomond still is obvious), vanilla, and butterscotch with soft fruit and balancing dry oak spice that lingers on the finish. 

Another catch-up from G&M, this time from the ‘Beast of Dufftown.’ Immediate substance and solidity, which is what you want from Mortlach, but there’s also thick-cut marmalade and cumin. Only with water, however, does the classic meatiness emerge—like a lamb tangine with apricot. A cleaner, slightly lighter side to the Flora & Fauna 16 year old, but with heft and a burnt licorice sweetness. A great introduction to a classic distillery.

This 21 year old expression is lighter in color and not as sweet or fruity as the younger 17 year old also reviewed here. Very mouthcoating in texture, with notes of dry vanilla, fat barley, coconut, citrus fruit, and pineapple. Long, intensely appetizing, dry salty finish. As an aperitif, or perhaps with seafood. 

The distillery closed in 1993. Very fragrant, with a potpourri of dried spice, herbs, and (to a lesser degree) flowers on the nose and palate. The spices are accentuated by mint tea, fennel, clove, and faint vegetal notes. Dry, spicy finish. Not an elegant Rosebank, but rather, this is Rosebank with an attitude. 

A relative newcomer to the Scotch whisky industry, having just turned 12. And over the past decade, we’ve had plenty of opportunity to watch this whisky mature, as it was first bottled after a few years as Drumguish, and then under the Speyside name as an 8 year old and 10 year old before this 12 year old expression. This whisky continues to develop with age. The foundation of this particular bottling is a generous serving of toffee, nuts, and vanilla fudge. Fruity, golden raisin and peach notes provide contrast, with toffee and subtle oak on the finish. Whisky for dessert, anyone? 

Style: Highland (Isle of Skye) single malt scotch Color: Antique amber Aroma: Toffee, cookies fresh from the oven, waxy ripe fruit, bonfire smoke and damp peat, with background notes of pepper, brine, smoked kippers, and a hint of seaweed. Palate: Similar to its aroma. Full-bodied and quite thick in texture. Dry, smoky, peppery finish. 

This bottling celebrates distillery manager Douglas Campbell’s 50 years of service at Tomatin, and includes casks from 1967, 1976, 1984, and 1990, along with a peated Tomatin from 2005. The nose is initially slightly musty, with faint peat smoke, sweetening to mild vanilla, with new leather and peaches in time. Full-bodied, relatively dry on the palate, with the European oak casks in the ascendancy here. Raisins, dark chocolate, and licorice. Medium to long in the finish, drying, with spicy oak. 

Soft and creamy in texture. A delicate mélange of fruit and a teasing nuttiness balance nicely with the whisky’s gently sweet notes of lightly toasted marshmallow and caramel, finishing soft and pleasingly dry. A very smooth whisky you could drink all day long. 

Fresh and clean, with notes of creamy barley, cut grass, coconut marshmallow, pencil shavings, and oatcake. Soft finish. Subtle spice dances about in the background. Bottling at 46% adds to the richness. A soothing whisky. 

Tullibardine 225 Sauternes is finished in Sauternes dessert wine casks from Chateau Suduiraut in Bordeaux, and the nose majors in citrus fruits, vanilla, pepper, and a discreet herbal note. Citrus fruits carry through to the spicy palate, with Jaffa orange to the fore, plus malt. Spicy to the very end, with milk chocolate and a suggestion of passion fruit.

A much-beloved malt in the U.S. Some say it’s because it is easy to pronounce (though having said that, remember it’s ‘OH-bin’ and not ‘O’Bahn’). I’d prefer to think its popularity is because there is something about the fresh cleanliness of the nose, its orange oils, chocolate, and zesty-zingy and yes, occasionally salty spiciness that is instantly appealing.

An equal marriage of Longmorn and Glen Moray whiskies. Quite a fruity adventure, with zingy notes of bramble, strawberry, rhubarb, sultana, nectarine, and plum. All this fruit sits on a bed of creamy vanilla malt (the Longmorn influence is quite evident) that coats the palate long after the finish.

Consists of 60% Bowmore and 40% Caol Ila. Bold, youthful, and somewhat medicinal (as would be expected), with peat smoke, tar, pebbles on a beach, and boat docks. Additional flavors of smoked olives and exotic pepper add intrigue, while honeyed malt notes soothe the palate and provide balance.

Aggressive earthy smoke, tar, fiery pepper, bath soap, and ginger tamed by toffee and ripe malt. Lingering smoldering peat, anise, and tobacco. For those who like smoky whiskies young, aggressive, and unabashed.

Nectarine, tangerine, toffee, and vanilla on the nose. There’s also teasing smoke, if you look for it. The sweet fruity notes start at the beginning of the palate, then cinnamon, nutmeg, cut hay, and smoke kick in. Lingering cracked pepper, clove, and distant smoke. Good gritty texture. Dynamic stuff for a young whisky.

The problem with selling your whisky by description is that if you don't deliver what you've claimed in the name, you're in trouble. That's a little bit how it was with these whiskies when they were seven years old. At this age, though, these are big boy whiskies and there is plenty of peat, seaweed, oil, barbecued fish, and salty sea notes to keep you hooked. Nicely balanced with fruit, too.  £35

Quite fragrant and fairly sweet (but not cloyingly so), rich with nutty toffee, nougat, and bright summer fruits. Clean, gently sweet finish. Well rounded, nicely matured for its age and, at $30, a good value these days. A versatile whisky to keep in the drinks cabinet; it’s enjoyable enough sipping neat or with a splash of water, but (at this price) you won’t cringe if your guests drink it on the rocks or use it as a mixer. 

Youthful and fiery, oozing with testosterone. Toffee apple intoxicated with kiln-trapped peat smoke, charcoal ash, anise, honeyed malt, brine, peppered seaweed, kippers, and damp earth. Brisk and warming. Okay, this is a young, “in your face” Islay single malt. Young Islay whiskies show the true character of Islay (which I like), and this is a young one. Ideally, I’d like to see another five years, not chill-filtered, and bottled at 46% ABV, but there’s still a sort of “raw edge” attraction here.

Very Singleton of Dufftown: while that means easy drinking and approachable, it also
can suggest a single malt without a spark of wayward genius. This is,
typically, very ordered: nuts and honey with malt and pecan pie underneath. As
it opens there’s dried lemon, oak, dried fig, and (dilute) pencil shavings. The
palate is—typically—sweet and thick, though here with a refreshing sharpness,
like a mix of wine gums and cider. I’d add a rock or two of ice. (Travel Retail exclusive) £38/1 liter

Hazelburn CV is the non-age-statement version of Springbank’s unpeated, triple distilled single malt, introduced in 2010 to accompany the existing 8 and 12 year old variants. Initially slightly mashy and herbal on the nose, with acetone and cigarette packets. Citric and more malty with time. Orange, ginger, vanilla, and sherbet zest on the spicy palate. The finish is medium in length and spicy, with a slight suggestion of salt. A fresh, breezy, aperitif dram. £33 (Not available in the U.S.)

Master of Malt is an online whisky retailer, branching out with its own bottlings. This, from an unnamed distillery, is lightly honeyed with some quince, apricot, and yellow plum, while there’s a mix of vanillin and dry bracken/grass behind. Light, clean, and balanced, the palate is refined and relaxed with Demerara-like sweetness and a finish of honey-coated nuts. I wanted more oomph on the palate, which might have come at 43% or 46%. £100

This laudable effort of comparative whiskies explores the effect of age by combining four parcels of stock in different proportions. The older whiskies produce an enticing nose of marmalade-encrusted ham on the bone, grist, and worn sandpaper. It’s sugary sweet with ripe melon before the sherry takes control and dishes out cherry candy and papaya. Held in the mouth, it develops layers of creamy latte and milk chocolate as the fruit fades. More to get your teeth into here. £54

Batch 1 of this new blend brings oxidized apple, maple syrup, crispy potato skins, soft spices, and nutmeg grated over eggnog. Rich strands of citrus, mint, and raisins mingle, building in intensity to greater spiciness at the swallow, where ginger and burnt sugar emerges. Undiluted, there is a hot, spicy, slightly acrid finish dominated by the ginger. Water adds melon, mandarin, and apple and manages to keep the ginger in check. £40

In blended whisky terms, this isn’t for the faint-hearted, and joins a number of recent releases prepared to show off its
darker, grittier side. It’s a big flavored blend, with its heart in the islands, and with oily coastal notes reminiscent of a delicatessen: brine, salty cheese, some crab apple relish, and smoked fish. It’s a rugged bruiser, but it makes its mark with some style.

Standard blends fall into two categories: those that will behave nicely when mixed to offer almost non-whisky experience, and those that are feistier and want to make sure you know they’re there. This is the former, and with whiskies like this one, it’s possible to blink and miss it. That doesn’t make it bad; just indistinctive and unexceptional. There is little sign of the wood here, but the delicate, sweet apricot notes just do enough.

This single cask (#10328) bottling was distilled in the summer of 2006 and matured in a refill hogshead. The nose is initially slightly mashy, with savory notes, becoming more floral, with caramel. Bold and spicy on the palate, with roasted meat and underlying citrus fruit and herbal notes. Mildly metallic dark chocolate in the medium-length finish.  £42

Light gold. A little shy initially, but Glenallachie isn’t noted for its effusiveness. It has a clean and slightly nutty aroma, with light honey alongside grilled hazelnut. The palate is fairly crisp and slightly bunched up to start, until this nutty sweetness expands in the center. Ever so slightly oily. Water flattens the aromatics a bit, but allows the flavors to spread gently. All in all, a decent example of an uncommonly seen single malt. £85

An 11 year old Fettercairn from Douglas Laing, this is an undemanding but pleasing Highland dram. It comes from a distillery which tends to polarize opinion among drinkers. The nose is light and crisp, slightly floral, with pear juice and a hint of honey. Sweet and spicy on the palate, with hazelnuts and drinking chocolate. Powdery in the finish, with tangerines and a suggestion of Parma violets. £37

Full gold. A solid middle-weight Macallan with some putty/Play-Doh, and even after this length of time, a certain youthful airiness. This slightly lean aspect gives way to an almost suety richness. When neat, the palate is a little jumbled: caramelized cask-derived notes, cereal, oiled jackets. Water improves things, releasing an aroma akin to Chenin Blanc, then cooked pear and a big hit of sugared almonds on the back palate. £69

A broad and humid aroma, like walking through hot bracken in the summer. Quite substantial, with lemon, pecan, and, in time, chestnut. It’s this last aroma that carries through most strongly onto the tongue. There’s light grip, and even at 46% some level of heat. Water reveals oak and pencil shavings/cedar, while the grip has now loosened. Out comes a more crisp attack and hints of delicate top notes. The finish is pretty dry. £56

Overripe cantaloupe, green apple, banana custard, and whole almond are the main soloists, though they are accompanied by a linear grain overture running through it. A quartet of golden sultana, mint, ginger, and pepper play the opening movement, then sit back as toffee-dipped banana flavors orchestrate a delicious climax before a diminuendo into minor chords, with sour gooseberry and herbal notes to finish. Water works well, elevating bright notes of lemon sponge on the palate. (238 bottles)

Whiskies from undisclosed Speyside and Highland distilleries are blended together in first-fill sherry butts. On the nose it’s an alluring blend of orange, cherry, toffee, salt, and ginger. The entry follows the nose with toffee, orange, ginger, and malt. Things begin to drop off in the mid-palate, which is very focused on salt and ginger, with strong alcohol undertones. The alcohol drives and defines a dry finish that's absent of much of what's so alluring about this whisky. (U.S. only)

Gold. Quite sweet and spicy nose. Light cinnamon and that distillery ginger edge. There remains a light cereal aspect to the background, but it is considerably more youthful than the age suggests. The palate is equally sweet and direct, with excellent spicy concentration. Water shows that there is some weight here, reminiscent of honey-nut cornflakes (with cream). The nose now hints at some oxidation, the palate retains peppery freshness. It’s another I’d have kept in cask. £135

Naming your blend “Sherry Cask” retains an air of ambiguity to it. Theoretically, it could be the maturation or finishing vessel for all or some of the constituents. The whisky is light-bodied and the sweet sherry is evident, though a nip of bitterness interrupts. Smoother on the palate than the 12 year old, there’s strawberry, raspberry, and background spice, with a blackberry note late in the finish. Overall, there’s less flavor development, but it’s an old-school kind of blend.

An official Strathclyde from Chivas Bros., presented in its squat bottle from their under-appreciated Cask Strength Edition series. I found a peculiar nose comprising shafts of lemongrass, garlic bulb, root ginger, taffy candy, and green tea. As an Iron Dram, it’s oily and bold, with coconut, fresh mint, and green pea, with a savory note tugging at the taste buds. Dilution highlights scallions, a light creamy toffee, and Reese’s peanut butter cups. Curiously intriguing: for bold flavor explorers only. £43

Massive with a huge sherried attack; seven years is the right time to bottle. There’s light raisin, date, and fig roll/treacle toffee, but it’s a funny one as it develops; while it is superficially impressive, it becomes clear that the oak-driven and distillery-derived parts, aren’t talking to each other. Water brings out light cask-driven sulfur. On the palate, the black fruits and Demerara rum take initial charge along with menthol. It’s tannic already, though. Lacks integration, but what else to do?

It’s been four years since Diageo last released an official single grain whisky from this Glasgow distillery. This will kick off your evening with its aromas of golden syrup flapjacks, light vanilla sponge fingers, and waxy linseeds. The American oak notes are all over this: vanilla, sweet granola, and pecan, yet there is a squeeze of lemon and a square of milk chocolate too. The creamy finish has real length and makes this a most accessible grain whisky.

Delicate nose of sherbet and melting heather honey layered over pleasant grassy and herbal notes. The texture is sweet, thin, and syrupy, with a slight vegetal note, before salted caramel reels it in, brimming over into a briny finish like a salty kiss. The grain clearly plays a major role. Truth be told, the aromas and flavors work well, but the lack of weight makes it feel like a tiddler rather than catch of the day. (Selected U.S. states, NZ, Switzerland).

This is the foundation stone of the whole Label 5 range and it’s a solid, reputable blend that works neat, with a rock of ice, or in cocktails. The digestive biscuits, dark walnut toffee, and fruit salad aromas concede to a rather inauspicious palate of burnt orange, malt biscuits, charred oak, and ground ginger. It’s lively through to its malt and spice conclusion.

Once again, some assertive distillery character to the fore which, in BenRiach’s case, means plenty of ripe sweet fruits, cooked apples, a jag of citrus, and a background malty note. There’s a pleasant, slightly oxidative, wine-like note with water. The sweetness dominates the palate, with the nuttiness moving to hot breakfast cereal and, in typical BenRiach fashion, a sweet spiced finish. Lovely, but not overly different from official bottlings.

This blend is generously half malt and half grain, unusually selecting 16-18 year old malts. The result has a nose of rich honey and florals, resplendent in a citrus intensity: squeezed orange skin with a background note of dry crackers. The palate is orange and malty, with cola, faint spices, and a little waxiness, but the core feels a little hollow. A good length finish where the pleasant buzz has a slight peatiness rubbed in. A decent stand-up dram.

Oh boy! It’s like tearing open a warm banana-and-toffee muffin, the steam bringing the moist, sweet goodness to your nostrils. Roasted peach and neat orange cordial join the party. On the palate, the alcohol strength is noticeably strong, with flavors of red currant, cranberry, and black pepper. At the fruitier end of the Cambus spectrum, this concludes with a whimper of spices, leading to a nip of cinnamon and bitter vanilla in the tail. (270 bottles) £87

This is the new super-peated (131 ppm phenol barley) Bruichladdich. “Super-peated” seems almost like an understatement. Ultra-peated, perhaps? Intense smoke on the nose and palate, with notes of freshly tarred road, cigar smoke and ash, licorice root, bacon fat, kalamata olive, and smoked seaweed. Struggling to emerge are youthful orchard fruit, honeyed malt, brine, and soft vanilla. Long, smoky finish -- like licking the walls of a peat-infused kiln. A very invigorating whisky. It’s a few years younger than the other ultra-peated whisky, Ardbeg Supernova. I think if they were both the same age, I would like them equally (and score them equally -- I gave Supernova an 89). But the Octomore does taste a little green, which was not noticeable in the Supernova. I think Octomore will be very good in another five years, and amazing in another ten. Let’s hope the lads at Bruichladdich are holding some stocks back.

Some of these older Duncan Taylor grain whiskies are very individualistic and exciting. With others, the wood has gotten the best of them (Grain whiskies are light in body and thus vulnerable to excessive oak aging). This one, fortunately, gravitates more towards the former, with a rather reserved oak influence, given its age. A bit tight on the nose. Rather sweet too, and somewhat viscous. Notes of vanilla, crème brulee, marzipan, caramel-coated popcorn, brown sugar, toasted coconut, and subtle pineapple and papaya. A gentle dried spice finish rescues the whisky from all the sweetness.

A fruity-sweet whisky (but still quite light and lively), with notes of orange marmalade, lemon meringue pie, and apricot. There’s also an underlying vanilla maltiness that is balanced nicely by oak spice on the finish. A respectable effort for a 10 year old and versatile enough to drink any time of the day (but I would prefer it before dinner). 

Light, clean, and delicate on the palate, with creamy vanilla, marshmallow, soft fruit (lemon, lime), and a touch of honey throughout. Nicely balanced and uncomplicated. A whisky to appeal to both the malt and blend drinker. 

Surprisingly thick and oily in texture for a Lowlander. There’s plenty of marshmallow, vanilla cream, and ripe barley, with interspersed cut grass, lemon, and mustard seed. Drying oak spice notes on the finish. Not as polished or refined as the distillery bottling of the same age, but it still has many redeeming qualities. 

Gordon & MacPhail purchased the Benromach distillery from United Distillers and reopened the distillery in 1998. They installed new stills and are using malt with a recognizable level of peating. This is first official bottling from the whisky that they themselves have made. The whisky is still youthful, but for a whisky of such youth it shows great balance, individuality, and promise. Notes of vanilla cream, honey, and fruit (pineapple, pear) are peppered with nuances of smoke, herbs, and pine. Youthful, vibrant finish. I eagerly look forward to tasting this whisky with a half dozen more years of aging. 

Nicely balanced, and easy to drink. Pit fruits (peaches, apricots) and lemon are the dominant notes, with underlying vanilla cream, butterscotch, and a hint of honey. Gently dry, delicately spicy finish. The most rounded of the four. 

Full gold color. Layers of citrus fruit on the nose (especially Seville orange, lemon, grapefruit), with just a faint hint of peat smoke and floral, herbal notes. Light to medium in body. It tastes similar in many ways to its aroma-there’s plenty of citrus fruit. The fruit comes first, followed by the classic "older Bowmore" oaky dryness. An echo of flavors repeats this sequence-first the citrus fruit, then the dry oak flavors. Some peat smoke teases in the background, but is mostly restrained. Fry, oaky, faintly peaty finish.
   Style: Islay single malt Scotch whisky. Price: approx. $160. Available at select retailers. 
   This whisky is classic older Bowmore (30+ years), with its exotic citrus fruit, distinctive oaky dryness, and faintest hint of peat smoke. 

Bowmore in unusually oily guise here, with linseed oil, hot seashells, background water mint, completely integrated smoke, and a cooling note that brings to mind a lido (without any chlorine, I hasten to add). The palate has a limey lift which flows into a quite thick, creamy/oaty mid-palate, with the smoke bedding itself on the tongue. Smoky and mineralic on the finish. Water makes it even more gentle. A light expression for the early morning. £98

Its color suggests sherry cask influence, and its aroma confirms. The initial impact on the palate is lush fruit, followed by a clean honeyed malt foundation. Toffee and nuts emerge, with that satisfying Bruichladdich freshness and brine kicking in on the finish, providing some balance for the somewhat waxy, sherried sweetness. (A Park Avenue Liquors exclusive.) 

Another Travel Retail exclusive, and while you might expect something delicate given the age statement, what is delivered is a thick, buttery/creamy opening that, for a second, teeters on the brink of sourness then pulls back to be more like ricotta cheese. It then settles into vanilla, floral notes, white chocolate, and sweet barley. The palate is thick once again, with lemon cheesecake giving a needed clean acidity. Quite a bulky youngster that’s best with water. (Travel Retail exclusive) £45

This Caol Ila was released the same time as the 12 year old, reviewed above. Older isn't always better, especially with Islay whiskies. I felt that way when comparing Ardbeg 17 to Ardbeg 10 year old, and I feel the same with these two Caol Ila whiskies. This 18 year old has the same flavor profile as the 12 year old. It's a well-rounded dram too, but it has lost the vibrancy and dynamic intensity of the 12 year old. If you want to experience Caol Ila in its entire youthful splendor-and save a few bucks while you're at it-then buy the 12 year old.

Mature and gentle, when compared to the 1990 expression above. If the flavors of the 1990 Caol Ila reviewed above are nakedly exposed, then this Caol Ila is wearing a winter coat. The same flavor notes are there, but they’re less noticeable. Pleasingly salty, gently drying finish. 

An established regular member of Diageo’s annual set of Special Releases, this expression celebrates the lesser-known side of Islay’s largest distillery; its production of a non-smoked expression. It was this unpeated style that saved Caol Ila during the great decimation of distilleries in the early 1980s. This example is intense and needs LOTS of water for its fragrance of cut grass, sherbet, and coconut water to emerge. The palate shows boiled sweets and has a pleasingly clinging quality. £53 

Initially what we have are classic Caol Ila notes: cod liver oil, soft pear-like fruits, and a glimpse of lobster cooked in sea water. It’s not so much smoky as ozonic and, though it seems a little exposed with water, there’s a squeeze of lemon (for the lobster, maybe). On the tongue there’s a light ashy note before the mouth is slowly filled. Any smoke is in check and understated. This is about citric freshness and salt. £70

Thick in texture and palate-coating. Ripe peaches and bananas, orange chocolate, English toffee, and a hint of damp oak on the nose. I can also detect brine, seaweed, peat smoke, and spice, but it’s a little clumsy. Same story on the palate. Not a bad whisky, but I expect more from Clynelish. 

Light straw. Initially this is quite hot and a little dumb, with whiffs of Indian spice — think turmeric and curry leaf — along with mint sauce (but no lamb) and a tickle of peat. The palate is quite intense and hot, with powdered almond, a grassy edge, and concentrated sweetness that starts in the center and builds toward the back palate. Subtle, but can’t help wishing there was just a little more say from the cask. £59

Deanston distillery has released its first organic single malt, aged for 15 years in new oak barrels. It is non-chill filtered.  Stem ginger, white pepper, cloves, and vanilla on the nose. The palate is rich with intensely sweet early fruit notes, honey, more ginger, and now black pepper. Becoming nuttier and slightly metallic in the finish with spicy oak and a hint of aniseed. (Germany and Travel Retail) £80

From a sherry hogshead, which is confirmed by its deep amber/crimson color. A very clean whisky for 31 years in oak, and its complexity is subtle. It’s sort of the antithesis of the Blackadder Longmorn also reviewed here. Both are heavily sherried. The Longmorn shows its age proudly, and is bold, complex, and a bit rustic. This one is clean, more conservative, and nicely balanced. You’ll find notes of honey-laced fruit, caramel, and toffee, with an infusion of nutty, ginger-spiced notes, leading to a polished oak finish. A straight-forward and uncomplicated Speysider. 

Light (for a Speysider), floral, fresh, and elegant, showing honeyed vanilla and lively fruit, along with a hint of marshmallow and hay. Soft, dry finish. Pleasant, straightforward, and uncomplicated. A good clean introductory malt that’s easy to embrace. 

The first official distillery release to the U.S. since the distillery was purchased by Angus Dundee. This is a thick, mouth-coating whisky. Notes of ripe malt, toffee, sweet berries, and caramel apples. It dries out quite nicely towards the finish, with spicy oak notes to keep it from becoming too cloying. 

More of a reddish hue, but as equally robust as the 1961 (see below). Some baked characters alongside dried cherry and barberry, which shift toward balsamic-like concentration. Hint of black pudding (blood sausage) and bitter chocolate. The palate is tight and tannic, with a hint of smoke and cooked dried fruits. Water loosens the tannic grip, allowing licorice to show. (A U.S. exclusive.)

Bottled for this auspicious occasion, this is a Glenfiddich that confounds people’s expectations by being smoky, not from casks (à la Caoran) but the distillate. Fresh, with a nose that brings to mind eating apples and hazelnuts around a late summer bonfire; the smoke seems in charge. On the palate, the reverse happens, with the fruits being thrust forward and the smoke only emerging on the finish. It’s vibrant and needs water, and is a lot of fun. Happy Birthday! (Travel Retail and distillery shop exclusive)£70  

Like Dalwhinnie, Glenkinchie starts life as a (deliberately) sulfury new make, but this character falls away in time to reveal delicacy. As a 10 year old, that sulfur could still be hanging around — one reason for the switch to a 12 year age statement. The improvement is noticeable. Here are gently lifted floral notes, hints of dry grass, and crisp pear. The feel is gentle and slow in the center, while vanilla creeps into the finish. Not complex, but very pleasant.

A limited edition—there are only 630 bottles of this—for those who are “Glenlivet Guardians.” A sherry refill, it’s a gentle expression that has typical Glenlivet floral elements that are more lifted than usual: elderflower cordial, jasmine, and night-scented stocks. A subtle spiciness emerges with a drop of water. This general smoothness continues on the palate with ginger in syrup and an enlivening citric note on the finish. 

Very fragrant and floral, with bright notes of citrus (lemons, orange) and fresh grass. Similar on the palate, with additional notes of soft honeyed malt and vanilla. Clean, fresh, appetizing finish. A nice aperitif or, better yet, a liquid sorbet between courses. 

Gently sweet, with toffee, nougat, and honey-glazed nuts, balanced by bright citrus and sultana. A soothing, unpretentious, malt I would save for after dinner. 

Generally sweet notes of honeyed fruit, orange marmalade, dark chocolate, and salt water taffy. Soft, gently briny finish. Pleasing enough of a whisky -- with no miscues -- but missing the depth found in some of the older bottlings. (Bottled for Texas)

Medium-bodied but viscous in texture. Clearly aged in a bourbon cask-there's plenty of honeyed malt and vanilla throughout. Hints of bourbon even peek through occasionally, along with some subtle peat. Soft melon mid-palate yields to dried spice, sea salt, bitter chocolate and herbal notes on the finish. Fairly dry for a 12 year old-particularly on the finish. Best served as an aperitif.

This is the oldest expression of Inchmurrin to be released by Loch Lomond, who make it in their highly versatile distillery at
Alexandria. Brittle toffee and cod liver oil on the nose, with vanilla and a whiff of Jaffa oranges. Smooth and full on the palate, more substantial and sophisticated than the younger Inchmurrin variants. The fruits are now more citric. Lengthy and unctuous in the finish, with more citrus fruit, gentle spice, and a touch of oak. £90

A soft, perfumed nose, with orchard fruits, vanilla, and a lightly spiced background. Voluptuous and initially very sweet on the palate, with malt and almonds, then ginger and chili kick in. Lively spices and fruit-and-nut chocolate continue through the lengthy and ultimately dry finish. £55

Soft and warm on the nose, with peaches in syrup, heather, hazelnut, and mild ginger. Quite full and richly fruity on the palate: apricots and more peaches, plus stronger ginger and a hint of spicy oak. Lingering in the sweet finish, with gentle spices.

Jura Elixir is exclusive to the Sainsbury’s supermarket chain, and takes its name from the legend that the water of Jura possesses life-prolonging qualities. Elixir was finished in a mix of American white oak and ex-sherry casks.  The nose is mildly fungal, with caramel and sea salt. Treacle toffee, ginger, and citrus fruits on the palate, which is ultimately slightly acrid. The finish is medium in length and spicy, with licorice. £16 (350 ml)

At first I wondered what was going on here. This Lagavulin has more of the austerity typical of Port Ellen. There’s a tense minerality on the nose giving the impression of salty rock-pools and samphire. Water makes it sweeter and oyster-like. There’s big delivery on the tongue, with masses of distillery character, but that tension remains to the saline finish. In a head-to-head with Caol Ila, the former wins hands down. £85	

rather soft whisky, with gently sweet notes of vanilla, marshmallow, and macaroon, with underlying tropical fruit, cut grass, and subtle spearmint. A feminine whisky to have with dessert -- or as dessert.

Grape candy, raisin, blueberries, vanilla malt, and lavender, with hints of lemon and spearmint. More aggressive campfire embers and damp earth burn underneath, along with some salt. A whisky that grows on you, and not bad for 7 years old.

Succulent, sappy, with plenty of oak. This whisky is quite fruity, with tangerine, lemon, and strawberries. It is balanced by fat barley, almonds and damp oak. It is not as polished and rounded as the Gordon & Macphail Longmorn reviewed above. Indeed, the fruity, damp oak notes can be quite dominant in this whisky. However, the whisky evolves constantly on the palate and there are some minty, spicy underlying notes which add intrigue. Definitely save this one for after dinner. 

Appetizingly briny and spicy, as would be expected from a Pulteney-especially on the nose. The spice notes (cinnamon, licorice root, vanilla) are balanced with light caramel and toffee. Quite dry, polished leather finish with suggestions of bourbon. While still enjoyable, I feel this would have been a better whisky if it were bottled 5-10 years ago. 

Strathisla whisky produced from peaty water, to create a different variant of Strathisla. The two dominant characteristics here are ripe fruit (berries, raisin, pineapple, citrus) and wood spices (cinnamon, clove, mint). The sherry cask and 33 years on oak have left their impact. The fruit and honeyed/toffee almond sweetness is to the fore with the dry spices kicking in later. They balance themselves out, but I wonder what this whisky tasted like fifteen years ago before the sherry and oak took the upper hand? 

Aultmore is part of the Dewar’s stable and another of Speyside’s forgotten light brigade. Here is a noseful of esters: bubblegum, pineapple, pink grapefruit, strawberries, and icing sugar. Visions of “Legally Blonde” flash through the mind. The palate is equally energetic, though with little cask influence it’s a bit gawky and slightly green, especially with water, suggesting that another year wouldn’t have done it any harm. Still, all very lovely.  £100

A trio of new expressions of what has become an established Islay brand. This one has a vibrant, edgy opening, almost like a burning lawnmower box, mixed with needed oiliness (gun oil), white tea, and, in time, the rather pleasant note of a cold fish supper. The palate is broad, and though light, the oils allow it to cling to the tongue as the salt, lime, and smoke all begin to build. A little hard, but pleasantly bracing.£44 

It often takes time for a new distillery to find its feet, but Kilchoman’s spirit was top quality from the first day. Its limited-edition releases act as markers on a work in progress, but are precociously advanced for their tender years. This, the first 5 year old, leads with a note like wet rushes/wet dog (that’s good!) alongside lightly turfy smoke. The palate is sweet, smoked, and thick with allspice on the finish. A star is born.

Diageo’s smallest distillery and another that has worm tubs. The character here is grassy: think hay and straw rather than lawn clippings. There’s just a hint of cereal behind, and a fresh, roasted spiciness. The palate has good central sweetness where you just get a hint of fruit. Light and fresh, and a good afternoon dram. £33

A malt that was overlooked by one owner (Glenmorangie) and is now, under the auspices of a new one (La Martiniquaise), beginning to ease itself back into the single malt world. Its problem has been the price: too low (see Speyburn). The standard 12 year old bottling gives a perfect idea of its potential. This is as soft and sweet a malt as you could ask for: peaches, toffee, and baked apple, with a tobacco/cedar/pine note from the oak. 

Thanks to the suicidal pricing policy of its previous owner, Glen Moray has been considered nothing more than a bargain basement malt, but at its best it is a very sweet, lightly malty dram. This is as soft as a lemon cream bun in a sunlit baker’s shop. Water brings out banana chews while the tongue brings to mind a picnic with baked scones and apricot jam. The only negative is slightly needling alcohol, so dilute and drink quickly. £72

While its regular stablemate Fior contains a proportion of peated malt, Fasque is unpeated, and the best comparison is with the now-discontinued 12 year old ‘1824’ house bottling. The nose is fragrant, with sherry, cherries, and vanilla. Relatively full-bodied, with a rich, spicy palate, focusing on Jaffa oranges and dark chocolate. It dries quite quickly to black coffee and spicy licorice, which linger in the mouth, along with a note of toffee. £35

Full-bodied and sweet on the nose, mixing burlap, bran, fruit cake, hazelnut purée, malt
extract; with water it becomes fresher and almond-like with a touch of
greengage plum. The palate has a soft feel, with the thickness displayed in the
nose alongside plums and crystallized ginger. It’s just a little flabby. I’d
like a bit more freshness or grip. The finish is nutty and rich. (Travel Retail exclusive) £51/1 liter 

Released in Taiwan in 2010, 15 year old Singleton of Glen Ord offers deep, smooth sherry and ginger notes on the nose. There’s vanilla, cocktail cherries, orange, malt, and dark chocolate on the palate. Long in the fruity then drying finish, cocoa powder, and finally, rather bitter oak. RM329

Launched in southeast Asia in 2006, 12 year old Glen Ord boasts a nose that is sweet and gingery, with toffee, a hint of tangerine, along with vanilla, sherry, and oriental spices. The palate mirrors the nose with more spice, then chocolate, and milky coffee. Finally, quite drying. RM247

Glendullan has an unfortunate moniker. Any whisky with ‘dull’ in the middle of its name will always struggle in English-speaking markets. It’s a shame, because it’s always delivered a gentle, sweet, lightly fruity/estery style, making it an ideal lunchtime dram. This ticks all those boxes. Green apples are there, as is cinnamon, alongside a racy acidity before water brings out more scented aromas. The finish is short, but it does its job as an easy-drinking, everyday malt. (Travel Retail exclusive)

The first spirit distilled at Abhainn Dearg is now 3 years old and legally Scotch single malt whisky. The distillery has celebrated with a single cask, non-colored, non-chill filtered release of 2,011 500 ml bottles. Apricots, crystallized ginger, candied peel, and papier-mâché on the nose. The palate features fresh fruit, spicy oak, honeycomb, and finally, toffee. Quite short in the finish, with more toffee, and a nutty note. £150

A light, oily nose, a little nutty, baked apple, cinnamon, nutmeg, and malt biscuits. There are seductive dark spices and cooked fruit, almost savory, like lifting the lid on a tagine. A thinner mouthfeel showing some lime zest before a warm, enveloping glow of malt sweetness, gentle spice, toffee, raisin, and char emerges. Savory, peppery finish. Like nightfall, it gets darker the longer you contemplate it. With water, sweeter with more candied citrus as honeys materialize.

A pleasant nose of light caramel, dried orange rind, butterscotch, sweet grain, and a lick of bonfire smoke, yet it’s like the volume has been dialed down to three. Delicate, to the point of shyness. Sweet barley, concentrated orange, a low rumble of spice, and the grain sings through. Accessible, well structured, and light-textured, leading to a finish of brown sugar around the gums, although it has a stronger grain character than many in its price range.

Scooped-out spaghetti squash, whole red bird’s eye chilies, celery tops, and country ham. It is redolent of sugary-sweet candies like Spangles (from the 1970s). Light and delicate initially, moving into phases of vanilla sponge, dried raspberry, and peppery spices, then the vegetal notes grow larger in the later phases. An enjoyable effort from refill cask #10439, but it fizzles out, leaving a finish of light pepperiness, heat, and sodden newspapers. £88

William Grant & Sons Rare Cask Reserves are micro-blends created jointly by Brian Kinsman and various liquor store proprietors, drawing on a choice of over 40 different single malts (importantly, not Glenfiddich or Balvenie). Quite herbal, with tarragon, cilantro, boiled candies, and unripe plums. A slow starter; vegetal notes yield to fudge, milk chocolate, orange, and maltiness, with pepper, oak, and spices in the latter phases. Stocked in only five U.S. retailers.

From the perfumed nose to the sweet and short finish, this blend doesn’t really put a foot wrong, but it’s shy and unadventurous.
Clearly well made, well balanced, and quite acceptable, it has a perfumed black currant sherbet nose, some slight but enjoyable blueberry, grape, and prune notes and a soft sweet conclusion. On its own, all fine: but it gets lost when in company.

Aromas of liquid honey, light toffee, dried apple, and satsuma peel. There is an initial citric attack, but when the flare dies down, a residual bitterness cuts through the underlying creaminess and caramel. Sure, its component whiskies lack substance and grip, but there is some flavor progression through to an enjoyable piquancy around the gums. The finish is a nippy buzz of peel and heather honey. Simple, uncomplicated, but for the price there’s plenty to like here.

Pale straw. An upfront and quite aromatic nose with hints of a florist’s shop—stems and blooms—with an underpinning of malt. A little gawky perhaps, which water accentuates. The palate, when neat, is clean and mixes those flowers and some stewed apple. There’s a little green chili heat (even when diluted). A punchy little number. £36

Douglas Laing follows up its award winning, Islay-soaked Big Peat with this, a sherried Speyside whisky. Just as Big Peat looks like Captain Haddock from Tintin, Scallywag on the label is a dead ringer for Snowy, though the official story is different. Anyway, this whisky isn't a patch on the Islay monster. Rootsy green salad malt is only partially rescued by the trademark Christmas cake and stewed fruits. Likeable, but not a classic. £45

Nosing this whisky, you'd never guess just how fruity it is, with barnyard hay, dry malt, honey, and light smoke. On the palate, however, the fruit is unmistakable with giant mango and apple. The mid-palate takes a sharp left turn into smoke and salt, but the mango just won't let go. A very dry, smoky finish is too dry, making the case against release at this ABV. An oddball whisky that will probably only appeal to a very narrow audience. (U.S. only)

Very fresh and quite light in color, suggestive of only light cask conversation. BenRiach’s fruits are there with hints of apricot, even some gooseberry. Very light malty background, and then a whiff of witch hazel. In time, it sweetens into banana and pineapple. The palate is clean, though pretty hot, with that mature BenRiach fizzy spiciness on the back palate. Can’t help but feel that this would have been a great 30 year old. £95

Not often seen as a single bottling, here we have Speyside’s modernist distillery in typically delicate guise, with plenty of subtle florals (think hyacinth and daffodils), something which is amplified with water. Imagine a cool day in early spring and you are pretty much there. The mouth is clean and fresh, with a little acidity. Water doesn’t damage the palate delivery, but neither does it particularly enhance things. A sorbet rather than a meal. £65

At 8 years old, there are stiff caramels, malt, oatcakes, Genoise sponge, and zested clementines on the nose. It doesn’t stint on flavor when it comes to the taste, bringing dried fig rolls, chewy toffee, Aunt Sally pralines, walnuts, and chocolate ganache to the party. It’s driven by dry fruit rather than sweetness, and there is a bitter edge to the swallow that persists into the finish. £35

Cometh the night. Shadows veil a whisky hewn from the cold lands in the north. A whisky of black cherry, crème de prune, rancio, balsamic, and salt, for it has known a mythical chimera cask; half Pedro Ximénez, half oloroso wood. The magical, syrupy texture foretells of passion fruit, fig, cherry, and raisins, but prophesizes that cask char will dominate the swallow. Dark forces swamp the quest for grain, though there is taste, hope, and nourishment for the journey ahead. £77

The recent official release of Aultmore means that malt lovers are finally aware of the distillery’s intense grassy/perfumed character, and it is these characters which are prominent here, alongside a very light sherried note in the background. There appears to be real complexity on the nose for such a young example, but water shows this to be the influence of the octave cask, which unravels slightly when water is added. Have it neat, and enjoy it a lot. £54

Formerly marketed as Glen Deveron and now rechristened the Deveron as part of owner John Dewar & Sons’ Last Great Malts initiative, this 18 year old is the oldest of three releases on offer.  Oily on the nose, with apricots, sultanas, and toffee. Dark spices merge with sweet apples, walnuts, and a hint of chewing tobacco on the palate. Ginger and pepper in the lengthy finish.

Did you hear that this distillery produced its 2.5 billionth liter of alcohol in 2015? This example from a refill hoggie has a floral bouquet, with a nose of snapped fingers of vanilla shortbread, butter frosting, and Angel Delight. An oily texture with flavors reminiscent of popcorn, turns to caramel, vanilla, parkin, and gingersnaps. There are some growling base notes of peppercorn, but it ends on a singed popcorn note. Sticky nougat and toasted corn chips on the finish. (294 bottles) £76

A blend of four different Islay malt whiskies. A pungent, merciless Islay whisky with intense peat reek, tarry rope, and raw seaweed. Fiery cinnamon, clove, evergreen, and unsweetened black licorice stick just adds fuel to the fire. An underbelly of vanilla malt and suggestions of coconut cream try to douse the fire, but it's a losing battle. Long, seemingly endless burning ember finish.

Released to celebrate the Ardbeg space mission, this is a mix of 1990 Ardbeg from bourbon and Marsala casks, and it’s the latter which make the running from the start. Earthy, with blackberry and fruitcake, and sooty peatiness in the background. While there’s a medicinal/herbal note with water, the palate has a damp wood edge. Fortified wine can work with peat, but here there’s a clash between distillery character and the Marsala cask. Sadly, a disappointment.

A distillery bottling of Ardmore finally comes to the U.S. This one is non-chill filtered and finished in a “Quarter Cask,” similar to Laphroaig Quarter Cask (same owners). Ardmore remains one of the few Speyside whiskies made with peat-smoked malt. Chewy, almost oily-textured, with sweet notes of toffee and caramel up front, followed by emerging damp, earthy peat and bourbon-like notes. The oaky, resinous bourbon lingers through the finish. The bourbon oak intensity dominates to a degree, disrupting the harmony of the remaining flavors. A whisky of great potential, but still waiting to achieve some of it.

Reddish amber color. Aromas of honey drenched fruit, toffee, and fudge. Medium to heavy in body. Rich and sweet in flavor (toffee, fudge, caramel), with interwoven notes of rich, ripe fruit. Lingering toffee sweetness on the finish. 

Style: Highland (Isle of Arran) single malt scotch Color: Straw Gold Aroma: Youthful. Pears in syrup, honeysuckle, and vanilla with a hint of caramel and citrus. Palate: Vibrant, somewhat youthful flavors that echo its aroma, finishing slightly sweet and a little fiery (because of its age).
   General Comments: The lack of chill-filtering certainly makes this whisky more flavorful and dynamic than its filtered brethren. It also tastes a little more mature. This shows how a whisky can be affected by chill-filtering. I expect this whisky to continue improving with additional aging. Price: low $40s. Available nationwide.

An extremely atypical Auchentoshan. This whisky was aged in bourbon, oloroso sherry, and Pedro Ximinez sherry casks. The PX cask, in particular, transforms what is normally a soft, delicate whisky into a big, rich, and chewy whisky. Toffee, raisins, fudge, plum, and plenty of nutty notes are interwoven throughout. An interesting adventure, but it’s hard to find the Auchentoshan in there.

Light and clean, with citrus, tropical fruit (coconut, pineapple, ripe banana), white chocolate, and honeyed vanilla, resting on a clean malty foundation. Soft on the finish. An easy-going whisky.

Rich and sweet, with toffee, coconut cream, Turkish delight, nougat, and honey. Ripe black raspberries, citrus, and dried spice (vanilla, fennel, and evergreen mint) provide complexity and attempt to balance all the sweetness. A pleasant dram, but I wish there was a little more to prop up all that sweetness. A whisky for those with a sweet tooth. Good with dessert, as dessert, or with a cigar. 

Drawn from a refill barrel, this is Balvenie all eager and bright at the start of its journey. It’s like an excited kid eating pancakes and runny honey (with a squeeze of lemon juice) at breakfast on her first day of school. There’s a hint of malt, a little peachiness, and a hint of the richness that will develop resonance in time. It’s lovely—I’d be happy to drink a couple—but way overpriced. The score has to reflect that. £400

Perhaps the oldest BenRiach on the market. I have great respect for whisky that has somehow managed to survive this many years without being bottled. If you want to taste a piece of history (which I can understand) and have unlimited funds, then go ahead and buy this. But, for the money, I prefer the BenRiach 25 year old (or even the 30 year old) to this whisky. Deeply layered oak -- from dried, spicy oak to juicy, damp oak. Notes of perfumed vanilla, roasted chestnut, and orange marmalade accentuate the oak. Pretty good for 40, but its best years are behind it.

Clean, fresh and uncomplicated. Honeyed malt, peaches and cream, with subtle floral and lime notes. Dry, herbal, oaky finish with a hint of bitter chocolate. A warm-weather whisky, or as an aperitif. 

Not satisfied with trying different levels of peating and cask types, the folks at BenRiach are also utilizing triple distillation. This expression has spent three years in oloroso sherry butts, although for me there’s more a mix of honey and cream, and light orchard fruits than any overt fruitcake. The palate is clean and fresh and lifted. Good energy. £50 

Or ‘Fumabat Porticus’ as it should be called—smoky whisky in a port cask—not that you need to be told that when you see the color. The port takes the upper hand on the nose, giving a layer of black raspberry, sloe, and cranberry sauce. The smoke hangs in the background. This juicy fruitiness carries through to the tongue where the smoke now adds much-required dry balance. The higher alcohol also stops it becoming too jammy. £59

Here is Benrinnes in very summery guise, with its signature meatiness barely discernible. Instead you get lots of thyme, rosemary, and dried citrus peel. The palate is clean and concentrated, with a tart drive akin to red currant. It is this jangly effect which shows the need for dilution. Water does improve things, and while the sour fruits are still there, the effect is more calm. It does lack length though. £65

As cask strength examples of young Bowmore — sold at a very keen price — the small-batch Tempest range is already picking up a cult following. This third release does not disappoint in the smoke department, while the nose also shows some orange zest aromas. That said, it is a little restrained, showing its youth with a pea pod-like character on the palate, while its fruits are emerging but aren’t fully ripened. More of a strong breeze than a tempest. £50

Though the color suggests good cask activity, the initial approach shows a dram that seems slightly unfocused and youthful. There are some kernel-like cereal elements and very little smokiness, with touches of salt and oil. The feeling is that it’s only starting to blossom — and there is a floral element — and has been bottled too early. It’s all very focused, lifted, and aromatic, but when compared to the Adelphi you can’t help but wonder whether the same distillery is involved.   £55 (500 ml)

Light gold in color, the roasted almond notes that start the nose show the influence of the amontillado sherry finish before your nose is filled with the contents of a spice merchant’s chest alongside, unusually, a light maritime note. Very gentle and clean in the mouth with sour plum and a generally amenable nature. More like this please, Burn Stewart! £60

Stiùireadair means “helmsman” in Gaelic. This has been finished for a year in Marsala casks. The nose is all garden compost, moist vegetation, light smoke, and highly oxidized: like a young vin santo (or indeed Marsala). Very nutty, with an almost vermouth-like quality. The palate is all clove, anise, cherry stone. Those oxidized wine notes are so dominant it’s shifted the balance toward the finish. This particular helmsman’s somewhat off course. £95

Bunnahabhain’s peaty expression is steadily coming together. It’s been one of those drams that seems to need more time than many, but that’s true of Bunna’ in general, come to think of it. In fact, the peatiness is quite mild on the nose, adding some scent to the sandalwood elements and obvious raisined sweetness. There’s a slightly cheesy note in the background and a touch of sulphur on the palate. It’s not quite wholly integrated, but progressing well. (Fèis Ìle 2016, 833 bottles) £95

Originally a one-off bottling for Friends of the Classic Malts, ‘Moch’ (Gaelic for dawn, though the association between daybreak and the dram is beyond me — one for the morning ‘skailk’ maybe?) appears to have taken the place of the Cask Strength expression. It shows a saline, seashell-like freshness, light smoke. and a pleasant mix of salami and grassiness. The palate is clean and intense with a continuation of that oyster liquor character. Great in a smoky Highball. £36

The finish in question here is Muscatel casks and you can tell that from the start, as the nose is filled with a rich, sweet, and very pronounced dusky fruitiness — sloes and plums. The smoke as a result is diminished as are the grassy/bacony notes. While the smoke does emerge from its fruity bubble on the tongue, the effect is almost liqueur-like. It’s a very pleasing dram, but the question is, is it Caol Ila?

Quite hot on the nose, with a little oak on show here alongside garam masala. The effect is of dried fish and seaweed, Brazil nut and bread basket. It needs water. In the mouth it’s tense when neat, giving you the sense of it straining to express itself fully but being constricted by alcohol. Firm and bold, but even with water it’s a little too dry.

This Speyside distillery was closed in 1983. Very pale in color, mouth-coating, but not heavy or cloying. A clean whisky that emphasizes its sweeter notes, with honeyed malt, ripe barley, butterscotch, and vanilla. Subtle notes of cinnamon, lemon grass, and fruit in syrup. A dried, oak-spice finish provides balance. 

Very fragrant and perfumed on the nose. Chewy and syrupy on the palate, with layers of sweetness (toffee, caramel, fudge), roasted almonds, and raisins. A drying, resinous spice finish saves the sweetness from being too dominant. Call me sentimental, but I just remembered the old Campbell Distillers 10 year old bottling which expressed so much more finesse, and was cleaner and not as heavy and cluttered. 

This Glencraig, along with Mosstowie (reviewed below), were experimentations with "Lomond" stills, where the top of the stills were replaced with a rectifying column, allowing several different styles of whiskies to be produced at the same distillery. The Lomond stills were eventually removed. This is a very creamy malt, with an oily texture. Notes of bananas and cream, ripe barley, caramel, graham cracker, and orange creamsicle. Dry, spicy finish. The fruity zing in this whisky shows that it still has some life in it. A dessert whisky indeed. 

One of a trio from Chivas Bros., who every year release limited editions of 500 ml cask strength bottlings from a selection of its estates. These are predominantly only for sale on site or by mail order through www.maltwhiskydistilleries.com.

This distillery is located amongst the fertile barley-growing fields of the Laich O’Moray. Though modern in look, it actually dates back to 1810. This is a classic introduction to its fresh, zesty style, which plays an important role in the Ballantine’s blends. Think cut grass, green apple, pine, pear drops, and a whiff of freshly-starched linen. This energy carries on to the mouth where apple is the dominant flavor, along with green walnut and a zippy acidity. £34 

Fresh citrus notes and pear drops on the nose, plus a newly-opened packet of printer paper. The palate is quite full-bodied and fruity, with some white pepper. More citrus on the palate, with spicy, freshly-sawn wood. The finish is relatively long and fruity. Uncomplicated, but a good introduction to the brand. £30

This isn’t the easiest to fall for. It’s stewed, swampy, a big, feisty, take-no-prisoners whisky with oxtail soup, spicy tomato and meat broth on the nose, then black treacle, praline, cayenne, and paprika. A rootsy prune juice is part of the finish. Challenging and tough. £67 [Dominic Roskrow]

Another whisky that will not disappoint fans of the brand, but it doesn’t do enough to bring any converts on board. The nose is fresh and sweet, with barley and ginger and not much else. The taste is perfectly acceptable, and at this strength better than the standard bottling. Water brings out a sweet malt and barley core, some gentle spice, and a rich sweetness. 

Think of sponge fingers soaked in cream and you’re not far off the initial aroma. Add in light macadamia-like nuttiness, a drift of mint, and Glenlivet’s signature apple — core, not green. As it opens, it becomes woodier, like a brush pile. The palate has sweet, pure, pear-like fruit that initially keeps the oak in balance. It seems to need water, but when it’s added the oak takes over. Good, but a little tired. £102

A single cask bottling of The Glenrothes aged in a first-fill sherry cask. Only 519 bottles, all destined for the U.S. It is the richest, chewiest, sweetest, and fruitiest of all the Glenrothes whiskies reviewed here. Deep mahogany color, with notes of toffee apples, waxed fruit, burnt orange, prunes in syrup, and dark chocolate. The intensity of the sherry and length of oak-aging gives the whisky a flavor profile that begins to transcend traditional whisky flavors, expressing notes of port wine, pot-still rum, and rancio. 

Sweet, ripe barley, balanced by damp peat, tar, and burning embers. Some spice notes (pepper, anise) linger on the finish. While enjoyable now, some of the flavors seem to behave more like individual solos, rather than harmony. I think they will begin to integrate nicely by the time this generation of Ledaig reaches its teens. 

Caramelized, fruity notes of mandarin, pineapple, golden raisin, and plum. Heathery honey notes add an additional sweet dimension, as do some light toffee and nougat. A dusting of cocoa powder emerges occasionally. Like the other 15 year olds, this one is quite sherried, thick, and heavy on the palate. (Bottled for Hi-Time Wine Cellars) 

A whisky very typical of this distillery, which has been silent since 1998. Rich and thick on the nose and palate; oozing vanilla, ripe malt, cotton candy, powdered sugar, new-mown hay, and lemon tart. Cinnamon, evergreen, and a wisp of smoke round out the palate. An evolving whisky -- starts out heavy and sweet, then turns clingingly dry. A fun, rare whisky for a reasonable price.

Thick and syrupy on the palate. Notes of marshmallow, creamy vanilla, caramel, honey drenched fruit, almond liqueur, and coconut macaroon. Liquid dessert. 

Rich on the nose, with damp tweed, malt, and a suggestion of earthiness. Finally, salted butter. The palate offers muted tropical fruits, soft gingery oak, and more earthiness. In the finish, the oak becomes more overt without dominating.

Surprisingly the most reticent nose of the three Inchmurrins. Mild orchard fruit, apple blossom, cocoa powder, and a hint of nutmeg. Initially, red grapes and almonds on the palate, with the fruit then darkening to raisins and developing oak. The finish is long, spicy, dry, and oaky, with persistent background fruitiness trying to break through.

Despite close proximity to Islay, stylistically Jura make has far more in common with its Highland cousins. The entry level 10 year old variant offers resin, oil, cereal, and pine notes on the delicate nose. Comparatively light bodied, with malt and drying saltiness in the mouth, along with a hint of aniseed. The finish is malty and nutty, with more salt, plus just a wisp of smoke.

A mix of bourbon and quarter casks finished in Pedro Ximenez, this new release is, initially, only for Travel Retail. The problem with finishing peaty whiskies is that all you can do is reduce the smoke, but here it’s done with as much subtlety as you can when dealing with PX. Think treacle scones, raisins, and tarry tobacco. A thick mid-palate gives an effect like an old-fashioned medicine. A sweet-hearted dragon smoldering in its seashore cave. (Travel Retail exclusive) £60 

The annual Cairdeas release aims to show Laphroaig in a new light. Initially I thought this too sweet and cask dominated, with the distillery battling against the wine—fresh red fruit and seaweed is a test, even for the best chef. Add water and give it time though, and there is this lightly exotic, herbal, hazelnut-like element. It lacks depth and the tarry thump beloved by many Laphroaig lovers, but is an interesting departure.

The latest in Chivas Bros. no age statement (NAS) variant of their malts and while the nose here does have Longmorn’s fruity elements, they are discreet. This is also the case on the palate, where what is usually thick, elegant, and fruity has had its volume turned down. Blind, it’s a nice dram, but I don’t want nice from Longmorn, I want great. £47

Style: Speyside single malt scotch Color: Gold Aroma: Fresh and youthful. Citrus fruit, honey, vanilla, ginger, and a hint of smoke. Palate: Youthful and on the light side for a Macallan. Notes of citrus, ginger root, honey and smoke. The whisky finishes rather quicky. 

There’s a Roman dish involving lamb cooked in milk, and this is it in alcohol form. A slightly peculiar lactic note rises and falls above the rich meatiness of the spirit. There’s a hit of pencil shavings, but with water it becomes cheesy. So much more straightforward on the tongue with good vinous weight, like an old Vin Jaune. It finishes with earthy tones. It’s just…odd. £125

Very pale in color. A creamy, mouthcoating whisky, with thick vanilla as the main thread. Quite dry, given its creaminess. I’m also picking up a lot of gin botanicals (especially juniper and orange peel). An interesting enough of a dram, but not something I would drink on a regular basis. 

A very traditional Rosebank-aged in a refill hogshead and bottled fairly young (12 years old). Rosebank is one of the better, yet lesser known Lowland single malts. Since the distillery was closed down in 1993, it will continue being unfamiliar to most, and finding young Rosebanks like this one will become increasingly more difficult. Here’s one at cask strength. The whisky turns very cloudy with the addition of water due to lack of chill filtering, but the additional water brings out the whisky’s subtle aromas and flavors-fresh cut grass, hay, delicate fruit, and a gentle malty sweetness. Ironically, I actually enjoyed some of the recent young G&M Rosebanks bottled at 40% ABV better than this one-their flavors were cleaner, brighter, and more refined. Still, this is a fair representation of the Lowland style. 

A new NAS expression from Scapa on Orkney, matured entirely in first-fill American oak casks. An initial hint of lime cordial, then musty peaches, almonds, cinnamon, and table salt. More peaches on the palate, with tinned pear and a little honey. Tingling spices in the drying finish, which soon becomes quite bitter – detracting from the overall balance.

Aged in a re-charred sherry butt. Sweet, but not cloying, with plenty of fruit throughout. Toffee, vanilla fudge, roasted chestnuts, and nougat, enhanced by glazed peaches, burnt pineapple, dark cherry pits, and subtle anise. Gripping charred oak tannins emerge mid-palate and continue on the finish detracting from an otherwise very pleasant experience. (Bottled exclusively for Binny’s Beverage Depot)

Douglas Laing has added a no age statement bottling of Talisker to its Provenance range, tagging it as “Young and Feisty.” It comprises whisky from casks #10227 and 10229. Lively and up front, with bubblegum, wood smoke, and black pepper on the nose. Developing ozone. Zesty soft fruits, emerging dark peat notes, and more pepper on the palate. The finish is quite short, nutty, and slightly metallic. Young and feisty indeed! £65

A single cask (#10699) bottling of Talisker, distilled in the winter of 2008 and matured in a refill hogshead before bottling in May 2015. Initially, a slight hint of new make, soon displaced by digestive biscuits, brine, and black pepper. Sweet oak, earthy peat, and orchard fruits on the palate. The finish is medium in length, with black coffee, licorice, and long-lasting spices.

Pleasantly sweet. Good malt foundation with an abundance of bright summer fruit. Clean, straight-forward and uncomplicated.

Light amber. The nose offers up walnut bread, spelt flour, and a green, malty note. Overall, it’s slightly unyielding, with toasted oak, hazelnut, and barley. Water opens up a sweeter core: Lucozade, apricot kernel, and barley. The palate is where the apricot flesh turns up, but then it firms up quickly, snuffing that moment of levity out. Water introduces lemon before it becomes very gingery on the finish. It’s the thing about Tormore; it just can’t let itself go. (France only) €42

This venerable blend has a nose of mandarin syrup cake, vanilla cream, and cut hay, with chopped cilantro and other herbal top notes. Sweet and fruity, though verging on tasting of artificial sweeteners at times, there are malt notes and a developing butteriness, with sweet mandarin notes and sponge cake. It all hangs on a light structure but it’s less smooth on the finish, with a scratch of wood smoke.

Remarkably light and drinkable for an all-malt product. Malty foundation with citrus (lemon zest, tangerine sherbet) shining through, along with vanilla wafer, white chocolate, coconut, ginger, and cut grass. A worthy “bridge whisky” for blended whisky drinkers curious about malt whisky, but single malt whisky drinkers might want more individuality. A whisky for a warm, lazy afternoon.

A slightly perfumed nose offers up the slightly unusual pairing of dried lavender, sweet-cured herring, and then potpourri air freshener. This flies off to show wet dulse on warm sand. It starts sweetly with some nutmeg, then hot peppers. The smoke is very light, allowing a tantalizing glimpse of soft guava before the salinity returns. Water brings out the peat kiln but also that initial perfume. Muddled. £700

Quite a solid start for a Caol Ila which, like the 30 year old (see above), pitches you into the farmyard, though this time it’s a sheep-shearing shed. There’s also some bacon and spent barbecue. The initial impression is of a pretty dry example, but some oil begins to seep through. The palate is explosive with some engine oil, becoming pretty flinty with violet notes, and the distillery sweetness is hidden. A little disjointed. £135

The least assertive of the Wemyss 12 year old range, and the most flighty. There's nothing wrong here, and the whisky's well-made and won't disappoint, but when you compare the spice hit here with what's on offer with other malts, this isn't shouting loudly enough. £35

The oldest of the new trio, here you can see how the smoke has become fully absorbed, accenting the peapod and spearmint, giving depth to the still-fresh ozonic elements. There are light levels of complexity, even a little chocolate. The tongue, when neat, goes deep into pear and apple, but it’s edgy. Adding water, however, shows the lack of oak integration. I’d want more from a whisky of this age (and price). £199

As with the 30 year old, here you get the sense of smoke being absorbed rather than being expressive. There’s not a lot of cask at work here—this has real minerality, and an oily brininess bringing to mind a hot outboard motor on a fishing trip. Halfway in a fire ignites, sending clouds of smoke forward, but then it dries too quickly. Good, but just not enough oak to give it depth and length. £80

One of the newest of the Distillers Edition family. Here, Royal Lochnagar has been given its secondary resting period in Muscat casks. That nodule of sweetness in the 12 year old has been picked up and extended into a more perfumed world; think blueberry muffin and boysenberry jam. The slight sour/bitter note is a positive, but I think in this case that the finish dominates proceedings and needs to be scaled down a little. £48

Another Glen Moray, this time in a substantially different guise than normal. Yes, this is fresh, sweet, and malty — to be precise, draff-like — but there’s smoke as well, and a fairly decent belt of it. Young it may be — amazingly it’s less than 2 years old — but the palate, especially with water, is cleansing and with vanilla, good phenols, and orris-like dryness. Very intriguing. £18 (200 ml)

The onionskin hue gives the initial indication that this was finished in a port pipe. The nose is light and fruity: raspberry and cranberry juice, even a sprig of mint. Fresh, but with a background funkiness. In time, there’s ripe melon, then lightly musty wood comes through. The palate is light, giving the effect of diluted fruit juice. It’s all just a bit lacking in weight. £25

Signature was new to the Singleton of Glen Ord range in 2013 as part of the Travel Retail exclusive Singleton Reserve Collection. Soft toffee, banana, and ginger on the nose accompanied by slightly herbal and pine notes. Sweet and easy-drinking, with a suggestion of sherry and drying oak. Licorice in the finish. RM263

The double maturation here is a vatting of bourbon and sherry casks finished off in what Diageo will only say is a “special” cask. That’s helpful. There’s a breakfast-style opening here of warm bagels with grape jelly, then comes citrus, before some of that dusky distillery character creeps in. It’s quite bulked-up in the center of the palate, but finishes cleanly. One for those who like things on the thick-set side. (Travel Retail exclusive)

A similar story to the 30 year old. Despite a truly excellent nose, this time more sherry influences dominate: think of polished wood, damsons, and a little menthol/camphor and resinous oak. Once again, the palate seems to be slightly dumber than I’d want from a venerable whisky that should be about elegant, complex expression. It’s balanced, just a little faded. Again, maybe higher strength might have done the trick. £140

Unmistakably grainy in character, this offers aromas of pink lemonade Dubble Bubble, faint vanilla, confectioner’s sugar, and mild herbal tones. Its redeeming qualities are the good thick texture and creamy, buttery feeling in the mouth. Sparkling orange and processed raspberry and strawberry flavors are hit by a surge of pepper and clove, which subsides to allow some late herbal notes to creep in. The finish has a heavy clove note. File this as a grain enthusiast’s grain whisky. £81

The weakest of the Double Barrel trio on offer, this has a slightly spirity nose with a somewhat unpleasant off note, but the taste promises more than the nose delivers. The oily, peaty Caol Ila is seemingly held in check by the Tamdhu on the one hand, while the fresh, zingy, sherbet-like characteristics of Tamdhu are tantalizingly faint. In the end, pepper and peat dominate.€40

Despite the high strength, the aromas strike the nose like a pillow in slow motion. Greengages, corn, and ripening lemons lift from the glass. It’s a thick, unctuous, layered mouthful with honey, gooseberry, and lemon acidity, though a splash of water produces softer notes of Scottish tablet and evaporated milk. A little sourness in the finish. Sure, part of the allure of Boutique-y whisky is the batch variations, but this is quite a different beast from the magnificent Batch 1. £72

Light gold. Fresh and clean, with light draff notes. Cool porcelain, lemon, cereal husk. It becomes more expressive on the tongue, though it remains subtle. A bit of a stealth bomb because the palate shows plenty of spice, cinnamon toast, and baklava. The finish reveals some green notes. When you add water, it becomes incredibly minty. Fragile, but if you fancy a Bunna' julep, then look no further. £69

Pale straw. The nose is very draff-like/sweet mash, then green herbal notes, reminiscent of angelica. The palate remains light and slightly hot on the tongue, with some cereal and a certain fatness. Water brings out a little more from the cask. A delicate and pleasant enough dram, but I’m slightly bemused as to why it’s being bottled at this age when there’s clearly so much more to give. £69

Very pale straw. The color indicates that there’s been no real cask activity. A little closed on the nose to start; clean, quite green and leafy (young ferns). The flavor however, makes up for this, with good mid-palate sweetness and some dark fruits beginning to assemble themselves in the middle. Of interest to completists. £45

Another youthful offering from Douglas Laing in its Premier Barrel series, presented in one of 863 ceramic decanters. This Glengoyne initially offers a nose of cherries and treacle before tinned tomatoes make their presence felt. Tangy fruits on the palate, malt, and spicy sausage. Caramel, spices, and a hint of oak in the finish. An interesting contrast to the older, more sherry cask-focused Glengoyne ‘house’ bottlings. £65

Following a similarly youthful Provenance range bottling of Talisker, and an NAS “Young and Feisty” variant, Douglas Laing has opted to release this 5 year old expression in its Premier Barrel lineup, complete with ceramic decanter, 495 of which were produced. Initially meaty, then peat smoke envelops the nose, with damp tweed backing it up. Black pepper and gunpowder tea on the bold palate; flinty, with lemon and lime. Lingering black pepper and a metallic tang in the finish. £75

This is the Lowland entry into Douglas Laing’s Remarkable Regional Malts collection, and on approach the nose is like sipping lemonade in a malt hopper: gristy malt, lemon, lime, honeydew melon, vanilla pods, peach, and apricot. A similarly juicy palate, gaining sweet grassy notes, Spangles, and confectioners’ sugar, before ending on a finish of dried citrus and fizzy Refreshers. True to the region, but the Epicurean makes the rest of the range look brighter, quicker, smarter, and tastier in comparison. £34

There is something very bedtime drink about this Glenallachie, without it being a dram to have before retiring for the night. It’s to do with the aromatic sensation of powdered malted milk and cocoa powder. The palate is simple, with some fresh apple, pear juice, and a lightly sour edge. The draff/malted milk re-emerges in the middle of the tongue. With water, pears come through, making it similar to a tequila blanco. All rather delicate. £63

Vicks inhaler (menthol, camphor, and pine needle oil), freshly unwrapped sticks of spearmint gum, cilantro, and root ginger make for a stimulating, if not exactly charming olfactory experience. Mouth-filling and structured with good weight, this has sweet orange and a mild gingery glow. Although there are fleeting vegetal notes, it stays just sweet of the middle. Close heat on the finish, saturating the taste buds with spice and dark citrus. £83

You can smell the time that has elapsed on this dark, chestnut dram. Glimpses of vanilla essence, mushroom gills, blueberries, aged balsamic vinegar, and beef stock. Flavors swirl around charred meat juices, walnut oil, chewed leather, rancio, tobacco leaf, tree bark, black toffee, and licorice root. A slight creamy salvation tugs it from its oaky and savory comfort zone. The moderate finish is awash with Brazil nut and bitter coffee grounds. Forget about adding water. An ancient, fragile grain whisky. (K&L Wines exclusive)

This could be seen as a brave young bottling of the sometimes divisive Fettercairn single malt, but Glenkeir Treasures has acquired some interesting casks which showcase the youthful whisky to good advantage. Wet cardboard, starch, and savory notes on the initial nose, settling down to something fruitier and with milk chocolate. Floral, nutty, and slightly peppery on the palate, with almonds, toffee, cocoa powder, and gentle citrus fruit. Quite soft in the finish, with elegant spices and milky coffee. (Whisky Shop only) £35/500 ml

Like being stuck inside the Dailuaine dark grains plant: all Marmite (yeast extract spread), deglazed roasting pan, and a cereal note. In other words, the distillery character is the major contributor. Some light nuttiness, but overall this is Dailuaine in funky guise. Becomes more, errr…agricultural with water. Robust and peppery on the tongue. A nice example, albeit without massive complexity.

This expression from Macduff distillery was launched along with its 12 and 18 year old siblings in 2015. The nose is fresh and floral and offers light cereal notes and soft malt. The palate yields new-mown hay, toffee apples, and quite sweet oak. The finish is medium in length and softly spiced. (France only) €21

A single grain whisky made equally from wheat and barley to keep you amused until R&B Distillers builds their new distilleries. The first impression created by the oloroso cask finish is an abundance of fruit sugar sweetness; cherry, raspberry, plus freshly picked mint leaves. This is a bold, muscular, assertive grain, where the juicy fruit is soured by aniseed, licorice, and toasted walnut. Notes of dried apple accompany a hot, drying finish. Water straightens it all out though. £50

Comus is the name of a frankly terrifying English folk group who taps into the dark, pagan spirit underpinning that music. An apposite name then for the Laddie’s most heavily-peated variant. If you want to know what it’s like to stand beside a kiln, then sniff this, but the distillery’s sweetness is retained, here in the guise of pineapple and banana. The palate is like eucalyptus lozenges, with light maltiness before that Laddie thickness makes things even sweeter.

MacQueen’s has an impressive range of age statement blends, but this is the youngest one. Faint caramel and toast, a mild rub of whole spice, and snuff tobacco. The mouthfeel is meager and lacks any real punch; there is spice and fudge, but little sweetness. More caramel flavors develop alongside chocolate notes before a dry, quick finish. There are better options around, even at this price.

Shy is the word. Pale in color, again suggestive of little cask interaction. There’s a little hint of white currant and light cereal, delicate and fragile — more fragile than the Balmenach — with a little touch of white chocolate. As it opens, out comes violet. The mouth is tense, as if everything is still baled up, even after all this time. Very light acidity gives a certain freshness that water doesn’t shake loose. Simply not enough cask. £67

Finishing in octave-sized PX casks has resulted in the creation of an oddity: the world’s first Ardbeg cordial. There’s smoke, pigskin leather, and a sudden rootiness, mixed with damp woodland, stewing Victoria plums, and a weirdly lactic note. This continues on the tongue, giving an effect like smoked cream cheese dotted with raisins. Hmm…£120/500 ml

A peculiar Auchentoshan. The Bordeaux wine dominates, with its distinctive winery aroma and flavor. Red raspberry, red currant, and a hint of strawberry comprise the core of this whisky, with underlying notes of vanilla cream, cocoa, and a hint of demerara rum. The whisky spent nine of its years in Bordeaux wine casks. I would have preferred less time in the wine casks for such a delicate whisky. 

Dominant notes of citrus (lemon, lime) and other tropical fruits (coconut, mango) on the nose. On the palate, the whisky is simple and uncomplicated. The entry is soft and malty, and then it becomes dry and gently oaky. Not overly inspiring, but those who purchase the whisky for its rarity value (the distillery closed in 1983), shouldn’t be discouraged from actually drinking the stuff some day. 

Aged in bourbon oak and then finished in Guigal Hermitage Rouge Syrah wine casks. Bright notes of red raspberry, rhubarb, currant, plum, and (not surprisingly) grape, with background notes of vanilla and caramel. I find the syrah notes entertaining on the nose, but too dominant on the palate for balance. The fruit becomes waxy and hides a lot of Bruichladdich subtle complexities. (Bottled exclusively for The Party Source.) 

Very pale. A little thin in body, sharp and penetrating. Very Caol Ila-like, with notes of damp peat, Greek olives, seaweed, mustard seed, incense, gin herbs, freshly ground pepper, and vanilla malt. Smoldering peat finish. I would like to see more body to this whisky. (634 bottles produced.) 

Not immature, but very intense and unabashed. Sweet barley notes and vanilla are beaten up by coal tar, damp kiln smoke, and fiery spice on the finish. For those who like their Islay whiskies young. Very young. I would have waited a couple more years before bottling this one. Pure testosterone. (Bottled for Maxwell Street Trading Co.)

Somewhat sidelined thanks to the presence of Glenrothes and Glen Grant (not to mention Speyburn) in the same village, Glen Spey gets on with producing fillings for numerous Diageo blends (primarily J&B). As a result, it’s rarely seen as a single malt, with even independent bottlings pretty thin on the ground.
This 21 year old is the color of old gold, and while the nose initially surprises with a hint of suet dumplings, there’s a rich and dangerously hedonistic sweetness behind, which is strangely hard to pin down. Coconut cream? Suntan lotion? Blackening butter in a frying pan? Eventually it appears to settle in the crème brûlée area, along with a fruity base (sweet, of course). There’s a light green note that suggests it might be distillery character coming through, but water suggests it’s new wood. 
In the mouth, there’s vanilla fudge and toffee, before a hint of muesli alongside dried mango. Overall it’s a bit like eating breakfast in a new ski chalet. Showy and impressive, but for me the wood’s in charge. 

This is coming from a first fill sherry hogshead, so there’s little surprise that the color is as dark as pitch. This is Glenfarclas at its most concentrated; less about dried fruit and more about highly-roasted espresso with a glass of ancient Marsala on the side. The palate shows firm grip moving into astringency. Too much cask for me, but if this is what rocks your boat, go for it! £840

The nose immediately betrays the fact that this has been matured in a first-fill sherry hogshead. It’s akin to an artisan’s workshop, all leather oil and strange resins. There’s an intriguing hint of curry spices and truffle, but all in all this is about density, black fruits (damson), allspice, and clove. The cask is in charge. The palate has more tannin than you perhaps want — powerful and grippy with lots of nut and tea-like tannins; too grippy for me. £500 

Finished in sherry casks. The sherry adds a nutty toffee sweetness, bramble, and other assorted red fruit and raisin, with the tell-tale Glenmorangie complexity tucked underneath. A bit heavy on the sherry, though, for such a subtle spirit.

A 1992 ‘Rothes finished in a peated cask, this shows immediate smoke along with some cellar notes. Behind is some laurel and a light lemon touch. It has surprising intensity. It’s all very clean and fresh, but while the smoke is there it wanders about in a somewhat distracted fashion. Like the recent Glenlivet peated cask offering it just lacks integration. Maybe if you want smoke, you should peat the barley. Who’da thunk it? £42

Lushly fruity and quite sweet. A bit too sappy on the nose, but more even-keeled on the palate. The fruit notes (nectarine, plum, orange marmalade) sit on a bed of caramel, shortbread, and thick honey, with chocolate-covered almonds emerging on the finish. For those who like their Highland Park youthful and very sherried. (Bottled for Grape Vine Market) 

This whisky is not as good as the similarly-aged, more polished and refined, standard distillery-bottled 25 year old cask-strength expression (our "Whisky of the Year" several years ago). This single cask bottling from a sherry cask is intensely sherried. Sappy fruit notes dominate the palate. Damp, somewhat tired, oak notes are prevalent throughout. The whisky is also nutty, with heathery peat notes emerging occasionally. The floral, heather-honeyed grace treasured in Highland Park struggles to emerge, and ultimately loses the battle. (Bottled exclusively for Park Avenue Liquors.) 

Rich and viscous in texture. Sappy waxed fruit, maple syrup, and nougat. Becoming quite nutty with emerging notes of damp peat, dates, plum and blueberry. The sherry is fairly dominant and masks some of the whisky's subtleties. After dinner with a cigar, perhaps? (Bottled exclusively for Beltramo's.)

Inchmurrin has enjoyed a higher profile since early 2013, when the range was extended to include 15, 18, and 21 year old
expressions. The lineup also boasts striking new packaging and is bottled non-chill filtered. Orange fondant cream and peaches on the nose, with caramel in the background. Fuller-bodied than the 15 year old expression, with pineapple cheesecake and ginger on the palate. The finish is quite long, and spicier and more peppery than that of the 15 year old bottling (also reviewed this issue). £70

Jura’s newest offering, and the oldest in the portfolio. It is drastically different than its younger siblings-this one is quite sherried, as its deep amber color with reddish hues suggests. I really enjoy how this whisky tastes on the palate-it’s rich and silky with notes of fruitcake, toffee, maple, orange chocolate truffle, cinnamon, and nutmeg. You’ll find the same notes on the nose, but there are also elements-cloying fruit, perfume, and a peculiar fleshy component-which detract from an otherwise lovely whisky. 

There’s no age statement, but the whisky is less than 10 years old -- and is a little green. Notes of toffee almonds, ripe fruit, freshly-ground pepper, chorizo, bacon fat, and damp peat smoke. Lingering smoke and brine on the finish. A few more years of maturation should improve this whisky significantly.

Quite palate-coating for a Lowlander, with sweet notes of vanilla malt, grist, honey and marshmallow. More subtle notes of cut grass, linseed oil, rubber erasers, and chalky antacid tablets. A peculiar-tasting whisky. 

Matured in a refill sherry cask. (A first-fill sherry cask would have completely dominated Rosebank’s delicate flavor profile.) With the addition of water (which is necessary), the whisky becomes quite cloudy. Rosebank’s traditional honeyed vanilla, grass/hay, and soft fruit are accentuated by lightly sherried, soft toffee flavors. An interesting whisky, but the flavors are not clean and well-defined enough to warrant a higher rating.

Enjoyable creamy texture and medium-bodied. Gently sweet notes of light toffee and vanilla custard, especially towards the front of the palate. Nutty too, with some sultana in the background. Gentle oak notes towards the finish. A very clean, well-balanced whisky that’s very easy to drink but also takes few risks. 

Plenty of citrus zest, along with subtle pineapple and coconut on the nose. The palate begins with honeyed-malt sweetness, followed by the citrus fruit, but then quickly turns dry and resinous, with dried nuts and spicy oak on the finish. The intensity of the dryness on the finish surprised me and detracted from an otherwise well-rounded dram. 

Amber in hue, this starts off very succulent and approachable, with some butterscotch, vanilla, and caramel toffee, but like its brother, it dries. The palate is lighter than the 14 year old, and seems to float, lacking an anchor. When it does come down, it does so with a cereal crunch. Water lightens it still further, just leaving a mix of oak and cereal, and an astringent finish. (France only) €56

Indeed smooth, and malty, with vanilla, shortbread, golden raisin, and macadamia nuts. Light oak spice emerges on a fairly quick finish. (It is only 8 years old, after all.) Pleasant and easy-going.

London-based specialist The Whisky Exchange won’t reveal where its main Islay brand is distilled, though the smart money is on a distillery not that far away from the ferry terminal that gives it its name. This expression is less phenolic than you might expect; there’s more rapeseed oil than smoke, but it does have a nori wrap shoreline character. The palate is discreet, with pineapple and creaminess leading the way toward a bonfire made of old fishboxes. £60

The nice thing about Islay whiskies is that they often show their true nature better at a younger age. Malty sweet and incredibly herbal (almost gin-like), with emerging tar, smoked seaweed, and olive. Medicinal in nature, with lingering tar and brine on the finish. Fairly straight-forward (what do you expect for 8 years old?) but a pretty decent showing for a whisky this young.

Bottled as one of last year’s Diageo Special Releases, this is very minty to start: mint chocolate to be precise, before Brazil nut and toasted bran appear, given balance by creamy oak. This mix of nuts and sweetness continues on the tongue alongside an early burst of strawberry, but the center and back palate are foosty (as we say in Scotland), or dusty, as you probably do.

A sweet, aromatic nose, with fresh cream, flaked almonds, macaroons, pomegranate juice, and a veneer of vanilla from this refill barrel. The palate starts warm and sweet, then revs up to full power; light butterscotch, cotton candy, clementine, Toledo marzipan, and corn kernels, with a hint of fresh green salad leaves. The short finish picks over corn, cake mix, and cream soda. Power, but not enough finesse from the wood here. £64

Bottled as part of Douglas Laing’s Single Minded range, which focuses on young small batch bottlings, this 8 year old Jura matured in two refill sherry butts after being distilled in April 2006. Pear drops, pine nuts, and damp woodland on the nose. The palate is light and fruity, though dark spices and aniseed soon emerge. Peppery oak in the dry finish. £33

Craigellachie is one of Scotland’s most interesting distilleries: its worm tubs providing a deliberately sulfury new make whose aromas flash off after maturation to reveal a deeply floral, pineapple-accented palate. Here, sadly, an inactive cask has meant that cabbagey sulfur has not been fully worked out. The fleshiness of the mature spirit is emerging, but this should have been kept in cask for another five years or so. Lacks balance and maturity. £60

You’re familiar with those generic blended Scotch whiskies of debatable origin with an inoffensive flavor profile, right? This isn’t one of those. With aromas of the fruit and foliage of an orange grove, beeswax, and a grassy note, this is a juicy, citrus-led dram that puffs out in the mouth, bringing a tingle of light pepper, ginger, and thick fudge. Despite the thinner mouthfeel, the baked orange and bitter Seville orange on the finish give it some bite. Perfectly serviceable.

Bright gold color. Sweet pear, caramel apples, vanilla, and fudge on the nose. Light to medium in body. On the palate, there is more fruit (pear, citrus) and sweet malt (vanilla, caramel, and toffee), with a gently sweet finish.
   Style: Highland (Isle of Arran) single malt Scotch whisky. Price: high $30s. Available nationwide. 
   Again there is no age statement, and this one is still on the youthful side, but it is richer (some sherry cask aging in the mix?) and expresses more flavors-and deeper flavors-than the one mentioned above. It is still quite young, but it tastes more mature than its age (which is probably six years at the most). There's not much Island character here. 

A sherry cask-matured Bowmore. Introduced as "the brother" to the 1989 vintage Bowmore released about a year ago (aged in bourbon casks). Notes of waxed fruit, dates, fruitcake, and raisin permeate through tarry rope, leather boots, wet socks, and ripe peat. Underlying notes of demerara rum, chocolate-covered coffee beans, and sea salt. A hedonistic Bowmore with an earthy, rustic demeanor. (1,800 bottles for the U.S.) 

Only moderately peated (15ppm phenol), but a consistent influence. Quite fresh: reminds me of a walk around a traditional distillery, with notes of steeping barley, kiln smoke, and youthful spirit. A subtle, intriguing thread of gin botanicals (especially citrus peel) weaves its way through the palate. Otherwise, the smoke and fruit keep your attention.

Inchmurrin is one of many single malts produced by Loch Lomond. It is made using lightly peated malt and matured in bourbon casks, and is named after one of the islands in Loch Lomond. Caramac chocolate and peanut butter on the sweet, fruity nose. The fruit motif continues on to the palate, where spicy malt, vanilla, and ripe peaches predominate. The finish is medium in length and nutty. £50

Obviously aged in a sherry cask. Juicy fruit, syrupy, a bit waxy, notes of maple syrup and spice (clove, mint). Nicely soothing, but there is a trade-off here-the soft, floral beauty which makes Linkwood malt so attractive is lost somewhere behind the sherry and escapes only briefly from time to time. (Bottled exclusively for Binny’s Beverage Depot.) 

Light onionskin color; the nose is scented with red fruits, cranberry sauce, hawthorn jelly, and red apple. With water there’s some bletted medlars mixed with lemon. Sadly, the palate is soapy to start with, before the super-ripe red fruits come through. Water makes things fresher, but overall it lacks personality.

I have tasted many superb Longrow whiskies in the past 15 years (not to mention some wonderful Tokaji dessert wines). This isn’t one of them. Longrow is an assertive whisky, and I can see the logic of finishing the whisky in an equally big Hungarian wine. The flavors are equal in intensity -- and this is certainly a dynamic whisky -- but they just don’t integrate well. You’ll find notes of waxed fruit, raisin, ripe barley, smoked fig, and toffee. Cloying, waxy finish.

Distilled at the start of 2009, this special edition was bottled mid-2014, making it a 5 ½ year old whisky. The nose is ashy paste with a good measure of barnyard funk along with sherry, oak, and clove spice. The entry is all ashtray, a late night of sweet wine and cigarettes. Sherry notes fight the smoke to emerge, but the smoke simply dominates. A smoky, ashy, spicy, and dry finish round out a face-slapper of a whisky. (U.S. only)

Touches of acetone and magic marker/solvent suggest that there’s precious little cask involvement going on here. Pleasing enough, with lime jelly and kiwi fruits, and a little whiff of sweet oak, but it’s very understated. In the mouth, it performs in a nutty way but doesn’t seem to have moved much over its quarter of a century sequestration. There is some horchata and brazil nut, even a mashy note, but it either needs more time or a kick to get it moving. £70

Caramel wafers, white pepper, pumice stone, and strands of caramel on the nose, but this is not a whisky bursting with personality. A sip brings cocoa and chocolate flavors which meld into an herb garden bouquet. A thin mouthfeel and rather linear flavor development make this seem rather ordinary, not a word I normally associate with this idiosyncratic range. The finish is redolent of marble cake. Not a patch on the superb Batch 1 in my book. (415 bottles) £100

Papier mâché, adhesives, lemongrass, green cardamom, peanut, pear, and other aromatic, fruity characteristics create a puzzling aroma profile. On sipping, there is fruity baked apple, sherbet, and glowing light citrus notes of orange, grapefruit, and lime, with a medium weight structure. The flavors tip toward a slight sour fruit note, but as this flattens out, creaminess rules. The finish suffers a short, quick death, leaving mild, sour fruit. Water brings crystallized lemon on the nose and sweeter, light fruits. £63

One might speculate about the initial qualities of this young grain prior to its sherry cask finish. While it boasts a richer color, the nose is reminiscent of roast beef, plasticine, wet dog, and bruised raspberries. In the mouth, it has good weight, though mouth puckering, with some brief rubbery notes early on before showing strawberry bubblegum, sugar crystals, black cherry, rhubarb, faint coffee notes, and an ever-growing pepperiness. An enjoyable finish of baked apple and star anise. (727 bottles) £44

What does this say about how far whisky has come? We live in an era where you can now buy the official whisky from a major motion picture. This has a deep amber color. Really deep. The nose brings warm muffins, caramel, and grassy notes with a good dose of smoke. It’s a sweet concoction with a peppery kick. There’s a tinge of polypropylene before a short, clipped, spicy finish. It just needs to find more of its own identity.

The entry level official Girvan is named after their ‘MPS’ distillation apparatus that distills at various pressures and under vacuum to vaporize and distill at lower temperatures. This is very light, with fresh whole pineapples, orange fondant creams, delicate vanilla, and risen dough. It’s fiendishly sweet (have a dental hygienist on standby), like a deep layer of butter frosting, sticky cotton candy, honey, overripe bananas, and spearmint. The expeditious finish tenders cookie mix, digestive biscuits, and a grind of pepper. £45

Hailing from the Speyside distillery, this has a deep orange color and an aroma of damp hay and a slightly vegetal note alongside caramel and peanut brittle. A perception of bitterness beside dried peels. The palate is thick with stewing fruits, tinned prune, and burnt sugar, with a background note of wet draff. Water lifts things a little, but it's all rather sick and flabby. £150

The range begins with this entry-level whisky, aged for 3 years. Aromas of pale toffee, vanilla, and scented, herbaceous notes can be found on the nose. It has a light, silky texture and comprises flavors of stewed fruits, with a slight bitterness behind them. Plum and coffee notes expand, though it remains tart through to the buzzy finish, which is lifted by hints of chocolate. A robust and pugnacious dram.

This bottling from an unspecified Highland distillery is intended to represent the style of whisky to be produced in the Raasay distillery, currently under construction.  Peated to a level of 15ppm, this expression has been finished in Tuscan red wine casks.  4,000 bottles are available. Buttery farmyard aromas, with red berries and a sense of relative youth.  Silky on the palate, with intense fruit sweetness and an immediate delivery of very spicy peat. Pepper and peat in a medium-length finish. £55

Meaning “son of the sea,” this MacNaMara has a lilting sweetness that lifts from the glass, the characteristic orange-peel oil note is present, but less assertive. Nectarine, Murray mints, and antique shop mustiness, but a lot less aromatic than many of its contemporaries. Flavors of sweet melon, golden honey, and tangy orange take off in the mouth, with tastes of white pepper, fennel, and ground ginger in hot pursuit. Pepperiness penetrates an otherwise juicy finish.

Nice to see Arran making it to 12 years old. Creamy on the palate and soothing in nature, with layers of sweetness (maple and butterscotch syrup, vanilla cream) and fruit (caramel apple, fried banana). Soft, congenial finish. A low-level yet persistent nutty/burnt rubber note detracts from what would otherwise be a very fun, pleasantly sweet whisky. (Note: at the time of publication, the whisky was not yet available in the U.S. Price above is UK price, converted to dollars).

This whisky comes from two bourbon casks, producing only 112 bottles. I believe it’s the most expensive Lowland whisky on the market. Unfortunately, its flavor doesn’t stand up to its price. While I applaud Morrison Bowmore's efforts to give us the opportunity to try such a mature expression of Auchentoshan, I feel that the whisky is past its prime. I wouldn't describe it as overly woody, like I have other whiskies that are 41 years old. Rather, I would describe it as overly funky. The whisky's aroma and flavor are very peculiar, with plenty of vegetal notes (cucumbers especially) combined with stewed fruit, golden raisins, rose petals, and spice (anise, clove). If it were $100 a bottle, I would suggest that you gather a few friends to chip in and buy a bottle, just for the experience. But at $2,000, I think we should leave this one for the collectors.

A very peculiar whisky. It’s interesting in some respects, with the thick, sweet Hungarian dessert wine fighting with damp peat smoke for attention. But it tastes a little disjointed, and a bit too youthful. With a few more years aging (before finishing in the Tokaji wine), the flavors should integrate and mature better. But as it is, this whisky is still “work in progress.” 

The owners of Bunnahabhain are making a peated version of this normally unpeated Islay whisky to put in their peated blend, Black Bottle. But they have not yet put out, as a regular item, a peated expression of Bunnahabhain for purchase. However, some of the independent bottlers got their hands on some, and this might be the first one to be offered in the U.S. It’s what you would expect a 9 year old peated Bunnahabhain to taste like: toffee, vanilla fudge, and nuts (the Bunny signature), kiln peat smoke, and a bit too much youthfulness. It needs a few more years to mature to acceptable levels. (Bottled for Binny’s Beverage Depot.)

The lightness of the hue suggests a very slow maturation in refill casks, and while I tried hard to get to grips with this, I found the nose simply too discreet. There’s a hint of the burning bonfire which indicates the subtle smoke that underpins Cragganmore; there’s even some parma violet, dried berries, and a hint of sulfur.
The palate picks things up a little, showing ferns, wet moss, Oolong tea, and dried apple, as well as citrus and — surprisingly — some just-lit cigar fuminess. It’s all rather understated, however. This is one of my top distilleries, but compared to the recent Special Releases and magnificent Friends of the Classic Malts bottlings, this is slightly underwhelming. 

The second of the duo — destined for the U.S. and Taiwan — is a relative youngster and has been extracted from a fresh Spanish oak sherry hogshead. The combination of first-fill and smaller cask size is immediately apparent. The color is mocha dark and the nose has a distinctly sulfurous twist, behind which are black cherries dipped in chocolate, tonka bean, and leather. For me, there’s too much cask and not sufficient Rothes complexities, especially on the palate.

A predominantly young blended malt heads up the first of the Reference Series, designed as an educational tool to help attune your palate. It’s a light, floral array, with waxed lemons, oatcakes, and peppermint. Mouthfeel is thin with little structure, heavy on the barley, with hints of boiled fruit candies. Sipped neat, it’s drying, with doughy notes and dried apple. Water fails to enliven the experience, other than showing late lemon and icing sugar. Memorize it, and move up. £37

Robert McNish conceived his recipe for a lighter style of Highland whisky in Glasgow in 1863 (though the brand added an ‘a’ to his surname for easier pronunciation). Whole orange, ground hazelnut, and ground ginger on the nose, though it keeps pretty tight-lipped. Light and sweet in the mouth, with mandarin and more pronounced ginger mid-palate before a medium-length finish of bubblegum and gooseberry. It just seems a little uninspiring given the special occasion.

Boldly, this is naturally colored (barely colored) 3 year old grain whisky presented in a tall, clear bottle. The predominant aroma of corn husks is mixed with a sentimental schoolroom whiff of white glue peeled from the fingertips. There’s wheat cracker, bread, cooked ham, dripping foliage, and chopped parsley. A clean, refreshing mouthfeel with pleasant marshmallow sweetness is nixed by flavors of corn, sliced bread, and vanilla, but they are hastily extinguished. A finishing spicy glimmer shuts down quickly too.

Auchnagie (1812–1911) was a southern Highland distillery that existed for close to a century near Balluinluig, south of Pitlochry. This reanimation is pale yellow in color with an abundance of young, green herbal, and foliage notes, with summer ferns, cardamom pods, and green tea. It has an ethereal, gossamer-like texture, with green apple, melon boats, and soft honey. As the layers peel away, the sweetness is dabbed with spices and black pepper before it peters out.

This Highland blend has a nose of lemon peel, tangerine, and pine-scented kitchen surfaces. The whisky is young, with a sweet mandarin dressing over the grain character, barley sugars, and a gentle rumble of spice. What it lacks at this age is mouthfeel, structure, and wood influence. The finish continues the sugared orange theme, with spice and ground pepper fading to soor plooms. For what can be expected at this age, the Clansman does its job well.

Squished rosehip, nuttiness, and seasoned wood, but there is little else of note on this one. The palate has corn sweetness, red fruits, pomegranate, cherry lips, and descends into soor ploom territory with more oak wood. The finish continues the woody theme with a residual baked apple note.  Port Dundas can be wonderful to drink, but with no shortage of good to great grain whisky on the market, I feel this one is past its best. (258 bottles) £90

Since a change of ownership in 2014, the Loch Lomond range has been revamped, with the previous blue and black label single malt variants being dropped in favor of this repackaged NAS expression. Farmyard aromas on the early nose, then emerging malt and caramel. Discreet oak. Rounded on the palate, with immediate citrus fruits, toffee, allspice, and a suggestion of smoke. Spices persist through a slightly citric, cerealy, medium-length finish.

Since Diageo has included Knockando in its Special Release program it seemed only right to reacquaint myself with the standard bottling. This is Speyside in its maltiest guise. The nose is reminiscent of breakfast cereal: Weetabix and bran flakes, with a whisper of vanilla. The palate is light and dusty, and you get the impression that the malt just wants to scuttle across the tongue and down the throat as quickly as possible. A shy wee mouse of a dram. £30

This amber-colored blend from the Gaelic Whisky Company has sweet barley notes and gentle spice aromas. The caramels prop up the dominant flavor of cold-pressed orange oil squeezed from the peel. A crescendo of peppery spice marks the late phase and distinguishes the swallow, before a finish of tangy citrus peel with a touch of clove. Perfectly straightforward blend but limited in scope, like a linear dot-to-dot connecting barley, orange peel, and spice.

This Robert Burns World Federation Arran Single Island Malt is the Calvados or Poire Williams of the whisky world. There's no age statement on this whisky, but it has the classic aromas and flavors of sweet pears prominent in very young distilled spirits. The vanilla notes, along with its pale color, suggest a used bourbon cask. I suppose one could treat it as an aperitif, and possibly chill it down or serve it on the rocks.

Citrus peel, light maple syrup, and almonds, with emerging grape and vanilla. Somewhat elegant in nature, but the flavors do not especially complement each other. (Exclusive to Binny’s Beverage Depot.) 

What a contrast with the standard bottling. Here we have Knockando in a hugely active cask and, sadly, its fragile character collapses under the assault. The nose is oily and sulphury with notes of sealing wax, Turkish tobacco, and maraschino. The palate is dry and tannic, the opposite of what is needed for a whisky that is nutty and dusty in the first place.

Huge oak impact for such a young whisky. Fresh oak shavings, dry vanilla, and subtle toasted coconut throughout. Some dried fruit, sultana, and toffee up front, but this is quickly consumed by the oak. Dry, hot, resinous finish. Not an old whisky, but already showing too much oak.

Deep, thick nose, with sappy oak, dried citrus, old leather, spearmint, and background leafy smoke. Nicely viscous on the palate, with similar notes as the aroma. But mid-palate the age gets the best of this whisky. The flavors flatten out and the wood dominates through the finish as the leather notes linger.
   It’s a rare treat to taste a whisky this old. If you like Lalique (and have the money), then this new bottling is worth some consideration, because there are certainly moments of intrigue and pleasure on the nose and beginning of the palate. But I have tasted several other 50-plus year old Macallans, and I can say with certainty that the 50 year old Millennium bottling and the 1946 vintage release were better and can probably still be found for a significantly lower price (Only 420 bottles available worldwide.)

This Lowland distillery only operated from 1957-1975. Huge bourbon impact on the nose and palate, along with vanilla, coconut, stewed fruit, and dried wood spice -- especially on the finish, with lingering notes of anise, espresso, very dark chocolate, and charcoal. A taste of history for sure, but this is a whisky that never was meant to be aged this long.

Port Ellen is going to just keep getting rarer and more expensive, and the quality is going to get more variable. This one shows the traditional Port Ellen characteristics (seaweed, tar, charcoal, damp earth, vanilla, salt, white pepper), but it just seems to flatten out mid-palate, leading to a fairly lifeless, slightly astringent finish. I feel like some of the guts were ripped out of this whisky. Bottling at a higher strength (and not chill-filtered) would have helped immensely.

Origins is Benromach’s new program to highlight different aspects of whisky-making, which I think is a great idea. This expression focuses on the use of Golden Promise barley to make the malt, which is then aged in a sherry cask. Unfortunately, there’s so much sherry here that I struggle to appreciate the impact or distinction from the Golden Promise barley. Notes of ripe orchard fruit, tangerine, beeswax, sticky toffee pudding, and toasted almond. Lingering smoke and waxed fruit stays through to the finish. A weighty Benromach (from the Golden Promise and/or the sherry). I find the nose pleasant enough, but the sherry-induced waxed fruit component that emerges mid-palate is just too dominant. 

Quite pale in color. Very youthful and naked, with damp peat, leafy smoke, charred oak, and black licorice, pears in honey and vanilla-tinged barley. Quite an eye-opener for a non-Islay whisky. It’s a little green and ornery. Certainly an entertaining whisky, but a few more years in the barrel would round this whisky out, meld the flavors together, and add depth. 

Youthful, and somewhat brooding for a Tomintoul. I can tell there’s some young whisky in here, as there’s a suggestion of new make spirit interwoven with notes of heather, ripe barley, raw peat, and lingering smoke. I like the concept, but wish the young component (the peated part of this whisky?) was matured a bit longer. 

Its best attributes are vanilla, toasted coconut, and tropical fruit, but the rest of this grain whisky is a bit of a disappointment. It is thin, and at times harsh. A paint thinner component is evident (especially on the nose), along with more wood on the finish than this thin body can handle. Two Carsebridge grain Scotch whiskies from Duncan Taylor which I have tasted recently were much better: richer and creamier, and with more balance.

Aged in a sherry cask, which adds sweet notes of toffee, Caribbean rum, waxed fruit, red licorice, and fruitcake to go along with the earthy smoke and lingering peat. A much sweeter, fruitier affair than the Croftengea also reviewed here, but behind all that sherry there’s still a whisky that needs a little more maturing. 

Earthy, fleshy notes with brooding grape notes and a gamey finish -- the Nebbiolo grape influence is obvious. I enjoy Barolo wine and I enjoy Edradour whisky, but the flavors in this whisky mix like oil and water. (Exclusive to Binny’s Beverage Depot.)

The sherry is very dominant and cloying, which is unfortunate. And I’m not crazy about the quality of the sherry (or perhaps even the wood it was aged in). I have great respect for both Highland Park and Binny’s, but this is somewhat disappointing for a Highland Park. Tasted twice, with the same opinion. (Bottled for Binny’s Beverage Depot) 

Fiery peat kiln smoke, tar, and ripe barley on the nose. Not overly complex, but not a problem either. On the palate, the whisky starts out acceptable enough. But by mid-palate, the whisky turns harsh and unpleasant, with petroleum and vegetal notes that continues through to the finish. (Exclusive to Astor Wines and Spirits.) 

Caramels, dried peats, elegant cigar smoke, seeds scraped from vanilla beans, brand new pencils, peppercorn, coriander seeds, and star anise make for a deeply satisfying nosing experience.

Silky caramels, bountiful fruits of ripe peach, stewed apple, orange pith, and pervasive smoke with elements of burnt tobacco.

An abiding finish of smoke, dry spices, and banoffee pie sweetness.

What impresses me most is how this whisky evolves; it's incredibly complex.

On the nose and palate, this is a thick, viscous, whisky with notes of sticky toffee, earthy oak, fig cake, roasted nuts, fallen fruit, pancake batter, black cherry, ripe peach, dark chocolate-covered espresso bean, polished leather, tobacco, a hint of wild game, and lingering, leafy damp kiln smoke.

There have been some legendary Bowmores from the mid-60s and this is every bit their equal.

All of them share a remarkable aroma of tropical fruit, which here moves into hallucinatory intensity: guava, mango, peach, pineapple, grapefruit.

There’s a very light touch of peat smoke, more a memory of Islay than the reality.

Concentrated; even at low strength the palate is silky, heady, and haunting, and lasts forever in the dry glass.

With a name inspired by a 1926 Buster Keaton movie, only 1,698 bottles produced, and the news that one of the two batches is more than 30 years old, the clues were there that this blend was never going to be cheap.

It isn't, but it's superb, rich in flavor that screams dusty old oak office, fresh polish, and Sunday church, with spices, oak dried fruits, squiggly raisins, and a surprising melting fruit-and-nut dairy chocolate back story.

Captivating, enticing, and wonderfully charming, this first blended malt from Chivas Regal contains selections of five Speyside malts: Strathisla, Longmorn, Tormore, Allt-a-Bhainne, and Braeval.

Red apple, cherry, raspberry fudge, peach and mango fruit salad, dusting of cinnamon, and dry heather sprigs.

In essence, it’s rich and satisfying, with dark vanilla, apricot, Bourneville-covered Brazil nuts, and tangerine, smoothed over by caramel and wood spices, maltiness, and gingersnap biscuits.

The more aggressive notes of coal tar, damp kiln, anise, and smoked seaweed are supported by an array of fruit (black raspberry, black cherry, plum), dark chocolate, espresso, molasses, bacon fat, kalamata olive, and warming cinnamon on the finish.

A complex array of fruit (tangerine, sultana, pink grapefruit, papaya, and the general overall citrus DNA that you’ll find in old Bowmores), with balancing notes of honey and vanilla.

Just like with Black Bowmore, this is a texturally soothing whisky on the palate, which continues to evolve in waves -- first the sweet honey, coating vanilla, and lively fruit, then turning quite visceral, with juicy oak, damp earth, deep peat smoke, and charcoal, followed by another wave of fruit (this time, dried fruit), finishing off with subtle charred oak and roasted nuts.

This whisky is better than White Bowmore, and it falls just short of Black Bowmore (which I rated 97), because it’s just a bit softer and less vibrant on the palate.

Definitely showing its age, but not in a bad way — the distillery character is still there.

Solid foundation of thick, chewy toffee, old pot still rum, and fig cake.

Soft, seductive peat smoke, juicy oak, cinnamon, and brine round out the palate.

One of the finest Bowmore whiskies I’ve ever tasted (and, at this price, will probably never taste again.)

The Dalmore is one of a handful of whiskies that seem to be able to age in the cask for many decades and still improve.

This one is incredibly viscous on the nose and palate (and very heavy on the tongue), with chewy toffee and old pot still rum.

The classic Dalmore marmalade note shines throughout, along with vanilla cream, an array of dried spices (especially cinnamon and evergreen), juicy oak, forest bedding, rancio, old armagnac, polished leather, tobacco, maple syrup, dark chocolate, almond macaroon, and subtle espresso.

The flavors evolve like waves lapping on the palate -- especially the interplay with the oak.

There are luscious old fruits—pineapple, dried peach, apricot—and puffs of coal-like smokiness.

The palate, while fragile, still has real sweetness alongside a lick of treacle.

It can take a drop of water, allowing richer, darker fruits to emerge.

It’s great that Glenlivet releases whiskies under the 'Cellar Collection' label.

This bottling is classic ultra-matured Glenlivet, and rivals the 1959 vintage Cellar Collection as the best one ever.

An incredibly complex whisky, with notes of vanilla, ripe barley, coconut, and caramel.

All this is accentuated by glazed orange, hazelnut, and a potpourri of dried spices.

Thickly textured, complex, and quite deep, with notes of toffee, ripe pit fruit, raisin, apple pie, dried spice (cinnamon, clove, ginger, and mint), and a wisp of smoke.

The elegant nose shows a dram at peace with itself; golden syrup, hay bales, ground hazelnut, liquid honey, French baguette, High Mountain oolong, and rubbed spice blends.

Refreshing palate of honey, toffee, citrus, honeycomb wax, and a profusion of sweet vanilla.

A marriage of three different single malts, aged in American and French oak.

This whisky shows the advantage of marrying whiskies from more than one distillery (when properly done).

Vibrant, with a complex array of fruit (orchard fruit, sultana), sweetness (light toffee, marzipan, honeyed malt), spice (creamy vanilla, mocha, warming pepper), smoke (tar, smoked olive, coal), and lesser notes of toasted almond and beach pebbles.

More smoke and tar on the palate than the nose, yet always in balance.

As you’d expect, solid peat is the first thing out of the glass, but this isn’t just a peat beast.

The palate is all about balance, with honeyed malt, raisin, and oak spice all complementing smoky peat.

A pure love note in a glass from Compass Box to Park Avenue Liquor.

Formulated to celebrate the 200th anniversary of Johnnie Walker.

This is a fabulous whisky for anyone who can spring for the bottle.

It is deep, dark, and quite powerful with a hefty malt foundation and sweeter notes of toffee and vanilla combined with resinous oak, complex fruit (both bright citrus notes and darker pit fruits), crisp mint, tobacco, polished leather, and heavy peat smoke.

A tour de force of a blended scotch-as big as many single malts reviewed here.

Silky layers of delicate sweetness (honeyed vanilla, caramel, light toffee) permeate through clean, delicate fruit (citrus, peach, currant), and subtle, complex dried spice.

A very versatile, very drinkable blend which suits most moods and occasions.

Cask #3145 is the lighter in color, and the sweet notes that balance the smoke and seaweed are not as deeply caramelized as Cask #3542.

I’m tasting hints of shortbread and caramel, which show through the peat smoke, tobacco, toasted nuts, firm spice notes (cinnamon, clove, and mint), and lingering brine.

With the Ardbeg 17 year old off the market, it’s nice to see a new Ardbeg in the line-up.

Uigeadail costs about the same as the Ardbeg 17 did but, with Uigeadail, you’re getting a much more interesting whisky.

Uigeadail consists of a marriage of younger whisky (from 1990 and 1993) with much older whisky matured in sherry casks.

The marriage works exceptionally well, with the younger whiskies providing the classic Ardbeg intensity many of us have come to expect, while the older whiskies contribute depth, maturity, and complexity.

And bottling the whisky at cask-strength without chill-filtration ensures that none of the flavors are stripped out.

This is an incredibly complex Islay whisky, with its bonfire smoke, brine, and peppered olive notes balanced by a taming sweetness of vanilla, marshmallow, and toffee.

Interwoven notes of candied fruit and sugared almonds round out the palate.

This expression was matured in a European oak oloroso sherry butt.

Overtly sherried, with figs, sultanas, cinnamon, and old warm leather on the nose.

The Turkish delight carries over to the palate, before the chocolate darkens to plain, with raisins, smoked ham, and cloves in the long finish.

The whisky is sensational, a glorious mix of ginseng syrup, baked banana, semi-dried tropical fruits, and an exotic smoked edge.

A sip is all you need to reveal perfect, thrilling harmony: light nuttiness, pollen, subtle fruits, gentle smoke, and light fungal touches.

Whisky this great, even in limited quantities, should be fairly priced.

Astonishingly fresh and clean for 30 years in oak, and with incredible depth.

Appetizing brine, with honeyed vanilla, mustard seed, green olive, Seville orange, and lemon zest.

Bottled in 2004, but just recently put in circulation here in the U.S. (Very strange.)

It’s fresh (even at 22 years old), appetizing, spicy, and briny.

There’s a sweet foundation of vanilla wafer and caramel, with a slightly oily texture.

White pepper, seaweed, mustard seed, lime, gherkin, and teasing gin botanicals add complexity.

A vibrant, dynamic expression of the shuttered original Clynelish distillery.

This whisky has all the positive aspects of a very mature whisky (depth, complexity) without all the negative ones (excessive oak, one-dimensional).

Very clean, but oily in texture, with honeyed vanilla, caramel, citrus (tangerine, orange, lemon), nectarine, olive brine, black pepper, ginger, cut grass, mustard seed, and just the hint of teasing smoke.

One nose of the 2010 SR shows that these days have been consigned to the past.

Gold in color; the nose manages to be both overtly waxy — I’m reminded of waxed paper — and fragrant.

Behind that is coal smoke, rather than the heavy peatiness of earlier vintages (Brora’s peating levels varied in its last years).

In other words, this is robust and powerful, with an evocative aroma that speaks of old sea chests, the seashore, and vellum.

Hugely concentrated, with massed fruits — quince especially — following behind.

When it does, the oily/waxy textures and flavors move slowly — camphor, peach, membrillo, hints of citrus, and toward the finish a growing brininess (akin to olives) and a hint of smoke.

Maturation of this 1978 distillate has taken place in European oak and refill American oak casks.

Fresh and fruity on the early, herbal nose; a hint of wax, plus brine, developing walnut fudge, and an underlying wisp of smoke.

The palate is very fruity, with mixed spices, then plain chocolate, damp undergrowth, gentle peat smoke, and finally coal.

It has been quite a while since we’ve seen a new Glenfarclas here in the U.S. but, after tasting this whisky, it was worth the wait.

Glenfarclas is a rich, stylish whisky that ages very well, and this 1968 vintage proves it.

It is very deep and mature, with complex fruit (sultana, marmalade) layered by sweetness (honey, caramel, and toffee).

All those years in oak contribute another dimension to the whisky, providing a dry, oaky spiciness, polished leather, and a hint of tobacco-especially on the finish.

It expresses all that is good about an older whisky, without any of the down side.

I’m told that most of the 1,400 bottles imported to the U.S. went to the Chicago area.

I’ve enjoyed some amazing 25 and 30 year old expressions, in addition to some older vintage offerings.

It’s complex and well-rounded, with great depth and no excessive oak.

Lush, candied citrus (especially orange), old pot still rum, maple syrup, fig, roasted nuts, and polished leather, with hints of mocha, candied ginger, and tobacco.

A bit oily in texture (which I find soothing) with good tannic grip on the finish.

A classic, well-matured Glenfarclas — and a very good value for its age.

An excellent example of an ultra-mature, sherried whisky done the right way.

Rummy, jammy fruit, toasted walnut, leather, spice (cinnamon, clove), tobacco, and dark chocolate, with a foundation of juicy oak.

Tasting this whisky, you know it’s old, but you also know it’s very good.

The sherry is certainly evident, and this is more sherried than many of the Cellar Collection whiskies to date.

Opulent and seductive, with prominent fruit (glazed spiced oranges, ripe peach, and hints of pineapple and coconut), caramel-coated nuts, and vanilla custard.

Anyone willing and able to cough up the bucks for this whisky will be richly rewarded.

Notes of old pot still rum, roasted nuts, chocolate fudge, burnished leather, Dundee cake, tobacco, and a hint of damp peat.

When I drink this, I feel like I’m sitting in the study of a stately Scottish mansion contemplating a fine, aged Cuban cigar.

The flavors evolve on the nose and palate, with peat kiln smoke, fresh asphalt, damp earth warehouses, morning-after campfire ash, and old boat dock contrasting nicely with toffee apple, crème caramel, delicate raspberry preserve, and dried citrus.

Long, smoky, spicy, briny, seaweed, dirty martini-tinged finish.

This whisky comes from a combination of both sherry and bourbon casks, and the marriage works.

I also like that it retains some of its youthful brashness, while showing the depth that maturity affords a whisky.

A delicious, well-balanced, old-fashioned Laphroaig.(Reviewing this whisky gave me an excuse to open a “fresh” bottle of its predecessor, the 30 year old, and here are my thoughts.

The 25 year old is bolder, more youthful, more dynamic, richer, and sweeter -- bottling at cask strength really helps here.

Both whiskies are very nice, but quite different in personality.)

Richly textured (great mouth feel), with vanilla fudge, nougat, ripe citrus, and ginger cake leading to a complex, spicy finish.

Quite fresh and appetizing for a 35 year old whisky, but not too surprising for a Springbank.

Notes of creamy vanilla, burnt caramel, coconut custard, brine, and a hint of anise.

Bottled in 2001, but still in circulation and (fortunately) just finding its way to me.

These Springers from the ‘60s are getting rarer and quite expensive.

This is a great example of why they are so coveted -- clean and well matured, with no sign of excessive oak.

Elegant sherried fruit dovetails nicely with polished oak and a steady stream of dried spices.

Look for citrus, nectarine, red licorice, coconut oil, ripe banana, and vanilla custard with warming cinnamon and brine.

A 12 year old blended whisky was created in 1972 consisting of 70 different malt whiskies and 12 grain whiskies.

  The blend was then placed in three sherry casks, where it was matured for the next 36 years (highly irregular, to say the least).

  The quality of the sherry casks is quite evident, as is the whisky's age.

  These three factors, along with the wide range of malt and grain whiskies, combine to create one of the finest blended Scotch whiskies I have ever tasted.

  It's dark, mysterious, and enormously complex, with notes of molasses, fig cake, dried fruit, tobacco, dark chocolate, old pot still rum, and polished leather, finishing with lingering cinnamon and mint.

  I am pleased they bottled it at natural strength and didn't water it down to 40% or 43% abv, which could have ruined it.

Would you have gambled The Last Drop 1960 liquid in new sherry wood for four more years?

The indulgent nose proffers maple syrup, buckwheat honey, roasted spices, blue grapes, pomegranate, raspberry compote, cilantro, pandan leaf, and beefsteak juices soaking into mushroom gills.

The complex, lustrous mouthfeel is replete with a sheen of rich maltiness, molasses lashed by sherry before a dry, resinous finish.

Water brings an oily nuttiness, then further drops produce a silky, clingy texture.

Lipsmacking notes of vanilla cream, coconut custard, ripe banana, sticky toffee pudding, rhum agricole, and delicate honeycomb.

Single malt drinkers take note: this whisky will change your opinion of grain whisky forever!

The formula for this whisky has changed slightly since its inception -- and I think for the better.

They've added some Laphroaig into the mix of Caol Ila and Ardmore.

This whisky demonstrates the layered complexity that can be achieved by marrying whisky from different distilleries and different regions.

I particularly enjoy the rich maltiness and oily texture that provide firm bedding and flavor contrast to the classic Islay notes: tar, boat docks, brine, smoked olive, seaweed, and kiln ash.

More subtle cracked peppercorn, mustard seed, and citrus fruit add complexity.

Amazing how a small change in composition can significantly benefit the overall flavor profile of a whisky.

The nose has honey, caramelized apples, Pixy Stix, pears in cream, faint pepper, ground coriander, and salty driftwood.

It’s teeth-coating with golden syrup sugariness, the silky texture meting out pears, apples, sweet barley notes, and crunchy spices, before a vanilla phase gives way to black pepper, licorice, and smoke.

You don't mess with the Johnnie Walker brand name casually, so we expect greatness, and boy, do we get it here.

This has a dusty, smoky nose with dried apricot and grape, and the whisky is gossamer-soft on the palate, with sweet pear and honey evolving on top of an oaky rich heart before a tidal wave of pepper and peat, and a delightful spice smoke and oak conclusion.

The pinnacle of the current Johnnie Walker range, this is a rare, inimitable blend of just nine whiskies.

It exudes the aromas of ripe bananitos, whole mango, satsuma, vanilla seeds, barley awns, butter biscuits, and crystallized pineapple.

The supple grain sustains indulgent, characterful malts creating a weighty, smooth mouthfeel.

I’m smitten by the vanilla creaminess, burgeoning deep fruit layers, how it swells with a satisfying snuffbox smokiness.

A beautifully styled blend delivering a captivating, sensuous experience.

An auld alliance renewed, this gorgeous whisky packs spicy aromas of peppercorn, star anise, and cardamom seeds, mingling with toffee squares, plum jam, dunnage earth, and dried sprigs of heather.

Rich fruitcake, jellied fruit, and bramble, then spices course through the mouth: chili heat, black pepper, and raw ginger.

Final phase has chocolate praline, growing milky, nutty, and soothing.

Single cask Aberfeldy bottlings are very few and far between, and this is a stunner!

After hogshead maturation the whisky ultimately underwent a period of finishing in an ex-sherry cask prior to bottling.

Insinuating and syrupy on the palate, with apricots, dried fruits, honey, and sherry.

Gently spicy and warming, with licorice in the notably long finish.

Cask #3524 is darker, with notes of sticky toffee pudding and chewy caramel that firmly support the polished leather, cigar box, roasted chestnut, smoked seaweed, tar, dark chocolate, and, on the finish, espresso.

Once again, this 30-plus year old whisky proves the aging ability of Balvenie.

The classic Balvenie honey note is there, but more reserved, along with graham cracker, vanilla wafer, citrus peel, raspberry (red and black), nectarine, and polished oak.

Although, I look at the price and remember how shocked I was when the Balvenie vintages were selling for $400.

This is a complex, dynamic whisky, loaded with lush, layered ripe fruit (red berries, tropical fruit, honeyed apricot, raisin), toffee, oak resin, polished leather, and well-defined spice notes (cinnamon, vanilla, nutmeg, clove).

Lush, thick fruit and chewy toffee soothes the assertive notes of earthy peat and leafy bonfire.

Underlying smoked nuts, brine, kalamata olives, and tobacco provide continued entertainment.

I like this Bowmore better than all the previous bourbon oak-aged, ultra-mature Bowmore whiskies that have been released over the past fifteen years (there have been several).

The whisky really evolves on the palate, just like the Black Bowmore releases.

This emphasis here is on fruit, bright fruit: peach, tangerine, mango, ripe melon, and pineapple.

There’s a soft, gentle side to the whisky, too, enhanced by sweeter notes of pancake syrup, orange creamsicle, and white chocolate.

Heavy oak notes emerge, along with teasing, earthy smoke, to give the whisky depth and bottom notes.

In short, an outstanding whisky, but not quite reaching the excellence of Black Bowmore.

The third and most exclusive release in Bowmore’s Vault Legends Collection was matured for 50 years in bourbon hogshead #5675.

The nose is fragrant and musky, slightly oily, with orange peel, developing vanilla, and green citrus notes.

Intense orange and peach on the palate, with black pepper, aniseed, and sweet oak.

Very persistent tangy citrus fruits through the extremely long finish.

Previous Broras in the Diageo Special Release series have set the bar remarkably high, and this, the eleventh such bottling, does not disappoint.

The component whiskies were distilled during 1976 and 1977 and matured in refill American oak casks.

The nose offers lemon and contrasting vanilla and honeycomb aromas.

The citrus and honey themes continue into the slightly earthy, peppery palate, while French mustard and coal figure in the drying finish.

Just 160 bottles of 1972 Brora are available through UK World of Whiskies and World Duty Free Group stores.

The oldest bottling of Brora to date was distilled using heavily-peated malt.

A big hit of oily peat on the early nose, with malt, dried fruit, and black pepper.

The palate yields bonfire ash, licorice, honey, more pepper, and well-integrated oak.

The finish is long, with peat smoke, plain chocolate, and tannins lingering in harmony.

This is the 13th annual release of Brora, which has been aged in refill American oak and refill European oak casks.

Hessian and hemp on the early nose, with a whiff of ozone, discreet peat, and old tar.

Fragrant and fruity notes develop, with ripe apples, and a hint of honey.

Dries steadily in the finish to aniseed, black pepper, dark chocolate, and fruity tannins.

Soft and mellow on the nose and palate, with unbelievably restrained oak for such a mature whisky.

Delicious notes of coconut, soothing vanilla, caramel custard, and banana cream, peppered with spice notes of cinnamon, mint, and teaberry that emerge on a soft finish that fades out gently.

Almost rummy in nature, with rich molasses notes throughout and layers of sweetness.

Some salt emerges on occasion, as do notes of honey, coconut, and candied fruit, with a pleasingly dry, gently spicy finish to round everything out.

Surprisingly youthful for its age, nicely balanced, and very drinkable.

For the past several years, the Stillman’s Dram expression of The Dalmore has been a 30 year old.

This new 28 year old expression, besides being two years younger, is also slightly less sherried.

Trimming back on the sherry and oak allows the whisky’s trademark orange marmalade, complex spice, and briny freshness to shine through.

This one is lively, dynamic, evolving, well-balanced, and always entertaining.

Matured entirely in oloroso sherry butts, this whisky is chock-full of lush fruit, roasted nuts, deep spice notes, and a hint of damp smoke.

It is wonderfully integrated, with incredible depth and maturity without being tired-and it expresses a soothing quality that doesn’t quit.

It is stunning throughout and more polished and rounded than the 1968 Vintage released a while back, which, while enjoyable, was a tad sappy and a bit too oaky at times.

This whisky is easily one of the 10 best new whiskies for 2005, and worth every penny.

The new ultra-mature release, following its 33 year old predecessor (bottled by previous owners).

It’s nice to see the higher ABV, given that the 33 year old was only 40%.

Quite deep on the nose and viscous (almost sappy) on the palate, with gobs of juicy oak and old oak (its age is obvious but not imposing), dark raisin, black raspberry, orange marmalade, roasted nuts, and freshly roasted coffee beans.

Those of you who liked the 33 year old will also enjoy this one (assuming you can afford it).

Savory and lightly meaty, but sweetened by plum sauce; there’s even some strawberry around the fringes.

You could see how with another 30 years this would end up like the ’54.

Elegant yet powerful, there’s sandalwood incense, marmalade, even a little dried mango.

Aged in sherry butts, which is a departure from some of the older Glengoyne vintage samples I have which show more bourbon barrel characteristics.

It is a very fruity, spicy, textural dram, with spiced apple, red raspberry, strawberry, plum, golden raisin, fried plantain, and creme brulee.

Good grip on the finish, with grape stems and warming spice (cinnamon, cracked peppercorn, and clove).

The 2017 release was matured in casks made of oak from Missouri’s Ozark Mountains.

The nose is floral, with rosehips, orange blossom, and milk chocolate-coated Turkish delight.

Voluptuous on the palate; sweet, even sugary fresh fruit notes, plus vanilla, cinnamon, and cloves.

Rummy molasses and toffee sweetness intertwine with roasted nuts and bright, juicy fruit.

Suggestions of fig, lavender, leather, and tobacco throughout, with a hint of peat and polished oak on the finish.

Not quite as refined as the Highland Park 18 year old, but it makes up for this with its dynamic personality.

A delicious, well-balanced, ultra-matured expression of Highland Park.

Toffee apples, molasses, and vanilla fudge provide a sweet foundation, with evolving notes of dark chocolate, dry spicy oak, tobacco, subtle smoke, and lingering brine on the finish.

Notes of peaches and cream, vanilla wafer, soft honey and fruit gum drops.

Subtler notes of tropical fruit (pineapple, lemon, coconut), demerara sugar, heather, and anise.

Polished oak adds structure and contrast, with a very elegant finish.

It's lighter and more elegant than the equally splendid Highland Park 30 year old, which I rated a 94 in the last issue.

There's certainly plenty of sherry influence in this whisky and it is complementary.

(About 2/3 of the whisky was aged on sherry casks, and a lot of these casks were second fill.)

The whisky enjoys a delicious foundation of toffee, fruit (lemon, plum, blueberries) and dark chocolate.

It continues to develop and evolve on the palate, with emerging notes of heather, nougat, lavender, delicate peat and complex dried spice (especially cinnamon and nutmeg) to balance the sweeter notes.

The extra alcohol is also a bonus, providing a drying balance to the whisky's sweetness.

Whiskies like this one remind me why I fell in love with whisky in the first place.

Red berries (strawberry, raspberry), rhubarb, plum, oak sap, vanilla bean, smoldering peat, coffee grounds, toasted almond, and dusty malt.

The finish is long and contemplative, with notes of polished leather, juicy oak, and telicherry peppercorns.

This limited edition bottling consists of a marriage of both European and American oak.

Bountiful golden fruit (sultana, pineapple upside down cake, tangerine, overripe nectarine) balanced by soothing, creamy vanilla.

A peppering of dried spice, chamomile tea, toasted oak, cigar box, and subtle smoke round out the palate.

Gentle peat, soft toffee, floral notes, and honey on the beautifully fragrant nose.

 Superbly balanced on the velvety palate, with brittle toffee, stewed fruits, peat, honey, and a hint of coffee.

There’s precious little reticence about this beast, which leaps out of the glass blowing peat smoke everywhere — then comes raffia, Lapsang Souchong tea, seashore, wet rocks, Elastoplast, talcum powder, bog myrtle (laurel), vetiver, and the aromas of a just-expunged peat bonfire with apples baking on it.

The palate starts with a fug of smoke being belched at you (non-peat freaks look away, now) then distinct saltiness enlivens the tongue before everything plunges down; intense sweetness takes charge for a moment before it shifts into charred creosoted timbers.

This begs for some water, and when it’s added, out comes sandalwood and peat smoke and tar and an orris root-like character — it’s not often I get gin-like notes on Lagavulin, but it’s here — which rolls over you as you roll over and succumb to its power.

After this year’s sublime distillery-only bottling, it’s clear that Lagavulin is in a real purple patch.

This is the 15th Special Releases bottling of Lagavulin 12 year old.

The nose is smoky, with kippers, charcuterie, and bonfire embers, offset by berry fruits.

On the unctuous palate, smoke blends with vanilla, green apples, and licorice, plus pepper and sea salt.

This is the first time I’ve been up for reviews here so I had a game plan: play it cool, mark tightly, let everyone know I’m hard to please.

Then they gave me this, the whisky equivalent to front row tickets to Neil Young on his current Twisted Road tour: not just a chance to get up close and personal with an old favorite, but to do so with an old favorite who’s on fire.

Laphroaig’s owners are intent on ensuring a big peaty engine for any new release, but this is a monster by anyone’s standards.

It’s essentially Quarter Cask finished in oloroso sherry casks, so in addition to the intense charcoal smoke attack there are rich fruity notes; blackcurrant and berries.

Grill that fish until it’s blackened and crispy, drizzle on lemon, and as the smoke rears up in protest, sip this.

Another of the Fine Oak series (aged in both bourbon and sherry casks), which will debut in the U.S. in March.

Of the five Fine Oak expressions that will be in the U.S. (10, 15, 17, 21, and 30 year old), this is my favorite, slightly besting the 15 year old.

Lovely sweet notes (creamy vanilla, light toffee, marshmallow, shortbread, and a kiss of honey) are accompanied by bright fruit (multi-layered citrus) and potpourri of dried spices, along with a hint of nut and wisp of smoke.

Quite viscous and soothing, with well-layered notes of apple pie, marmalade, and maple syrup balanced by dried fruits, ginger, polished leather, tobacco, and resinous oak.

(This whisky is much better than the last ultra-premium release, the Macallan 55 year old in the Lalique Decanter, and thousands of dollars less.)

Drier than the 12 year old (reviewed below), with some darker fruit (black raspberry, blueberry) marrying with the brighter orchard fruit.

  Sweet up front - honey and caramel - with a peppering of spice (dried vanilla, clove, and cinnamon) increasing as the palate develops.

A blend of 50% malt and 50% grain (a very high malt content for a blend), and bottled at 50%, too!

The whisky was blended first (very unusual), before being aged in sherry casks for its entire life.

Full sherry impact, but never cloying -- the higher alcohol level and grain whisky cut through the sherry and add balance and drinkability.

This is a fruity-confection delight, with raisin chutney, fig cake, orange almond scone, and chocolate-covered cherry.

Add to the mix richly textured toffee, old oak, polished leather, and a cinnamon-spiced tobacco finish.

Jaw-dropping: Aberlour 1973, Bunnahabhain 1968 and 1969, Bowmore 1968, Caperdonich 1972, Glen Grant 1974, Glenfarclas 1966, Glenlivet 1968 and 1970, Highland Park 1967 and 1970, and Macallan 1969.

It includes a 14% grain content from Caledonian 1974, Carsebridge 1970, Girvan 1974, Invergordon 1972, Lochside 1966, North of Scotland 1974, and Port Dundas 1973.

An elegant, refined mélange of peach, pear, soft oak, and rose cream florals, with dark fruit, chocolate, and fine pepper.

If you want proof that blended malts can be world class, you'll find it in any bottle of Blue Hanger.

Lovingly created by Berry Bros. whisky maker Doug McIvor, every release has been exceptional.

Even by the series’ own high standards, this sixth release surpasses itself.

And it's that peaty, earthy note on the palate that gives this release a new dimension, enriching the fruity Speyside sweetness at the whisky's core.

Named after the gun rounds fired on Royal anniversaries at the Tower of London.

Heightened sherry tones with dark Madagascar chocolate, Brazil nut, fondant cream, and faint espresso indulge the nose.

One heavenly sip reveals a velvety smooth whisky, thick and sticky, all revolving around the chocolate and nut, with a little support from dark fruits.

You can chew over this for hours as the finish soft-pedals the main themes.

From the nose you can tell this is a special whisky, with old, dark, lacquered wood, dusty cigar box, and sea salt combined with dark sweet cherry and a hint of rancio.

On the palate it gets even better, with lush, dark cherry perfectly balanced and integrated with oak spice, salt, and peat smoke.

There’s clear rancio in the center of it all that's utterly delicious.

This stunner finishes with a long, slightly spicy, and entirely lovely finish.

An incredibly complex creation using stock from Diageo’s 28 operational single malt distilleries, this has minted toffee, gummy bears, raw gooseberry, fresh whole grain bread, and earthy spices shaken over sweet banoffee pie.

Rich fruit, cocoa, granular white chocolate, dark citrus, waxy caramel bars, nutmeg, cinnamon, and bitter dark chocolate.

A beautiful sugared almond note materializes with sweet fudge and dried apple dipped in chocolate.

This has long been a core whisky for Compass Box, but the latest version of it is spicier and fresher than I recall, and without doubt, it's my new best friend.

Virgin French oak heads help to contribute oriental and aromatic spices on the nose, with hints of melon and pineapple candy sweets.

The taste is a delight, with spearmint, soft toffee, sweet citrus fruit, lemonade mixed with beer, and strawberry wafers.

An array of spices from cinnamon to chili to ginger dominate the finish.

Without dredging up all the brouhaha over the particulars of the component malts, this exemplary whisky has a balance you could rest on a pinhead.

Earthy peats, discarded fish boxes, and crisp bacon rind combine in a smokiness you can really get into, while there is honey sweetness, macadamia nuts, and a bouquet of early summer flowers.

It dances upon the tongue, sweet with toasted spices, anchored by dark citrus, and with a telling waxiness to the mouthfeel.

Recognizably Spice Tree, but it’s richer, more dapper, traveling in style, and wearing better shoes.

Honeyed palate with caramelized sugar, red apple, and red berry fruit before the gingersnaps and clove bite.

A tasty fifth Tenth Anniversary bottling from Compass Box; just don’t let yesterday take up too much of today.

Not seen since 2010, this yields vanilla frosting, menthol, spearmint, cream, dry spices, cedarwood, chopped herbs, and a discernable whiff of old grain.

Silky taste of butterscotch; it becomes more honeyed, with creamy vanilla, dried banana, malt, and a pinch of cinnamon, pepper, herbs, clove, and eucalyptus.

The yin and yang of Glen Elgin and Girvan makes an admirable exercise in precision, minimalist blending.

Jim Beveridge delivered these aromas of toffee apple, peach, and rich berry fruits by working with European oak casks.

The finely structured mouthfeel is where this triple malt whisky truly shines: the polished smoothness is exceptional.

The flavor journey begins with honey, citrus, and swirling melted chocolate, building to a fire of squeezed orange oils, dry fruits, and pecan nuttiness before concluding with rich espresso, dark caramels, and plain chocolate.

Amazingly fresh fruits and quince, slowly evolving into mango, blueberry, and a jammy tayberry note.

At the same time, exotic spices like cardamom begin to build, particularly when the surface is broken with a drop of water, while vanilla pod notes develop.

In the mouth, the grain smooths all the elements, giving an unctuous feel.

There’s just sufficient oakiness to give structure and any smoke is far in the distance.

Here’s your private audience with the inestimable Mr. Beveridge.

After contemplating impeccably selected aged liquids from the big five Distillers Company Limited (DCL) grain distilleries, he’s ready.

Three vattings representing cask character, distillery character, and Highland single malt were combined in the final blend.

A seductive soft and creamy palate, saturated with fudge and delicate vanilla fuse together in a study of honeyed perfection.

Black Bottle is unique in that it combines seven different Islay whiskies with grain whisky.

This produces a whisky with a beautifully rounded Islay character that will satisfy the discriminating “peat-head,” the drinkability of a blended scotch, and plenty of complexity.

I enjoy the interplay between the peat smoke, brine, seaweed, its firm, malty foundation and pleasingly dry finish.

The last new Chivas release was the 25 year old several years back.

Those extra years contributed an additional dry oak influence which I felt was a bit too dominant—especially on the finish.

So you can imagine my concerns before tasting this 38 year old whisky.

But this new Royal Salute has something to balance the dry oak that the 25 year old didn’t—lush, rich, sweet sherry notes.

It’s quite fruity, with toffee apple, date nut cake, fig, molasses, and golden raisin up front, evolving to dried fruit, pencil shavings, tobacco, and polished leather, with subtle cinnamon and cocoa on the finish.

My favorite of the entire Chivas line is the 18 year old (which I rated a 95) for its impeccable balance, but this is still a very impressive whisky!

The nose is highly attractive; a rich maltiness unfolds with vanilla oak, flapjacks, whole almonds, and gentle background spices.

Smooth caramels, chocolate orange, and a cappuccino note create a thick, weighty blend that melts gracefully into pools of darker chocolate.

The mouth-coating finish has plain chocolate, dry oak, and coffee.

On the nose, sweet toffee, citrus notes, seaweed, and spice complement a powerful peat smoke infusion.

On the palate, a somewhat sweet maltiness up front is run over by a powerful peat smoke locomotive.

Again, the whisky is enriched with citrus and pear notes, spice, and seaweed.

If you like your Ardbeg to go to a phenolic extreme, you will cherish this one.

This big, powerful whisky makes no apologies for its Islay roots.

And the fact that this whisky is bottled at 46% ABV just makes this big whisky even bigger.

Ardbeg's first standard release in nearly a decade, An Oa is matured in virgin oak, Pedro Ximénez, and bourbon barrels, with component whiskies married in the distillery's French oak 'Gathering Vat.'

The nose offers sweet peat, smoky lemon rind, ginger, and angelica.

A soft and sweet palate entry is followed by hot peat, black tea, peppery cloves, and aniseed.

The newest offering from the impressive Balvenie vintage cask line.

Honey, caramel custard, and Seville orange notes, with evolving -- and increasingly noticeable -- dried spice, oak resin, and leather that integrates well with the sweet, fruity notes.

The last Balvenie Vintage whisky I tasted that was this old was the exceptional 1966 Vintage.

This new vintage has some big shoes (or should I say bottles?) to fill, so how does it stand up to the 1966 Vintage?

In contrast to the massive, evolving, sherry-influenced 30 year old reviewed below, this one shows more subtlety and finesse.

It is also a very clean and polished affair-signs of an obviously excellent cask.

A honeyed, malty foundation incorporates notes of dried fruit (orange, lemon), complex spice (vanilla, cinnamon, sandalwood), and subtle herbs.

Exotic aromas of honey, vanilla, and tropical fruit (coconut, pineapple, mango).

The palate delivers what the aroma promises-honey, vanilla, and more tropical fruit, with a somewhat dry and rather lengthy finish.

Orange marmalade and lanolin on the nose, with caramel and candle wax dripped onto old leather.

Full-bodied, with slightly bitter orange notes, plus nutmeg and aniseed on the palate.

The orange theme persists into the finish as dried-out Jaffa segments, plus edgy oak tannins.

This Islay whisky speaks of its location in a very pure and natural way.

I find invigorating brine, seaweed, green olive, and fishnets, along with the classic Bowmore peat smoke.

All these flavors are softened by gentle vanilla and honeyed malt, while background tropical fruit add complexity.

Bowmore lovers rarely get excited about the smokiness of their favorite single malt.

Rather, they obsess about the tropical fruits that some old bottlings exhibit.

Initially the nose suggests verjus and linseed oil, but then peachiness rather than beachiness emerges.

The smoke hits first on the tongue, backed up with mango and violet, then the tropical elements and the smoke play off each other up until a guava-laden finish.

An old Special Releases favorite, this is the fourteenth such Brora bottling.

Distilled in 1977 and matured in refill American oak hogsheads, it is the oldest Brora issued by Diageo to date.

Leather, ginger, and stewed fruits on the nose, with smoky, dusty aromas.

Lighter and fresher than previous veteran releases, with cooking apples, cinnamon, fudge, dried grass, and light peat on the palate.

Sweet notes fade, leaving earthy, savory smoke in the long finish.

Another Special Releases staple, this is the fifteenth and oldest Brora in the series to date.

The nose offers hemp, oiled brown paper, lemon juice, ashy peat, and sweetening malt.

The oily palate boasts sweet fruit notes, peaty toffee, and ginger.

Long in the softly smoky finish, with black pepper, plain chocolate, char, and licorice.

Distilled in 1982, this expression was matured in refill American oak hogsheads.

Ripe pears and vanilla on the nose; progressively more perfumed, with developing toffee notes.

Slightly waxy on the palate, with fresh-squeezed lemon and sweet background smoke contrasting with spicy dark berries.

Plain chocolate, sultanas, and raisins in the medium-length finish.

It is also very clean and still quite fresh for its age-obviously aged in an excellent cask.

You'll find a bed of gentle sweetness, reminding me of coconut cream and vanilla mousse.

A mélange of fruit (melon, black raspberries, strawberries) marries perfectly with the sweetness.

Fresh brine notes and licorice root emerge on the palate and become more prominent towards the finish.

This Legacy III is more polished and rounded, and not as tired or woody when compared to the recent 40 year old bottling.

And the 40 year old, at $2,200 a pop, is also about five times more expensive.

This 32 year old bottling was aged in twelve bourbon barrels and re-casked into fresh bourbon wood in 2009.

It offers a nose of canned peaches, dates, marzipan, and a hint of milky coffee.

Rich fruit flavors lead on the palate: peach, pineapple, and mango, with vanilla and nutty oak.

Fresh, exciting, spicy aroma of brine, exotic pepper, seaweed, and raw fruit, with interwoven notes of delicate peat and caramel.

Flavors are incredibly vibrant and dynamic-almost challenging-and are similar to its aroma.

Shimmering gold Aroma: Very complex, with a potpourri of spicy, herbal notes.

Bottled for Friends of the Classic Malts (which means most of you), this is Cragganmore in early autumnal guise.

Dry leaves underfoot, ripe black fruits on the bushes, waxed jacket, chestnut, and a whiff of cedary smoke, opening into dried peach.

The palate is thickly textured, with those fruits, dark chocolate, and pomegranate molasses.

The immensely long finish gives you light pepper, smoke, and blackberry jam.

Notes of honey-drenched citrus, orange marmalade, chewy toffee and almonds, peppered with that classic coastal brine freshness and background spice I have come to love in Dalmore.

This whisky packs plenty of freshness and liveliness for 30 years on oak and is a pure joy to drink.

By far the softest and gentlest of the range, and oh so drinkable.

Hard to believe that this whisky is 40 years old, actually, as it shows no sign of excessive oak.

Instead, there are soothing layers of caramel and toffee as the whisky’s foundation.

Add orange marmalade and other juicy citrus fruits, cinnamon spice, graham cracker, and lightly toasted almond.

A gentle, subtly sophisticated Dalmore, and an interesting comparison to the much different, more visceral 50 year old.

If I were a rich man, I could drink this whisky every day -- it’s so easy-going.

This 1978 vintage release from The Dalmore has been ‘finished’ for two years in Matusalem sherry casks from Gonzalez Byass, following 29 years in American white oak.

Freshly-ground coffee, marzipan, dark berries, and rich sherry on the smooth nose, with milk chocolate and Jaffa oranges.

Citrus fruits and more milk chocolate on the rich, full palate, plus roasted almonds.

This veteran Dalmore was matured successively in bourbon casks, Matusalem oloroso sherry casks, colheita port pipes, more bourbon wood, and finally, Champagne casks.

The nose offers orange marmalade, vanilla, milk chocolate, maraschino cherries, white pepper, and a hint of black treacle.

Sweet sherry and sultanas on the early palate, with developing prunes and licorice.

The finish is extremely long, with increasing licorice, plain chocolate, wood spice, and tannic oak.

Deeper, richer, more viscous, and more intriguing than the 12 year old (and not as sappy as the 18 year old).

Complex and intriguing, with raisin, orange marmalade, grape skin, sugar plum, cinnamon bun, raspberry preserve, mixed nuts, and coal ash.

Part of the core range from GlenDronach, Parliament has been aged in a mix of oloroso and Pedro Ximenez sherry casks and is non-chill filtered.

Quite sweet sherry on the nose, with fresh leather, nutty peach notes, cloves, and pepper.

Rich sherried fruits on the full palate, with more pepper, ginger, and plain chocolate.

A triumphant expression including whisky distilled in 1990, 1992, and 1993 and matured in Spanish oak sherry butts.

The nose offers creamy sweet sherry, figs, a hint of black treacle, cinnamon, and ripe cherries.

The full palate yields sultanas, tangy citrus fruit, sweet oak, roasted chestnuts, and ginger.

Lingering bright fruit notes in the finish, with raisins, plain chocolate, and cigar boxes.

Dark amber in hue, this shows immediate mature elegance with great sweetness — think of spiced honey or mead.

There are some light notes of pecan pie and all the while that thread of the sod.

There’s dried peach and fruit leather, toffee, and, with water, biscuits dunked in tea.

This is what you want from fully mature Glenfarclas at its peak.

Here we see it not only with enormous age but in relaxed mode in terms of oak.

You can tell it’s old: the leathery waxiness and exotic fruits of whisky rancio; you can tell it’s

Glenfarclas because of the ever-present earthiness, but both are intensified into a new aromatic realm: gentlemen’s barbershop, rowan berry, and images of an old bonfire next to a gingerbread house.

Notes of shortbread, demerara sugar, and white chocolate, spiced with toasted nuts, cinnamon, ginger, and nutmeg.

This is a very complex whisky, with exotic notes of oak, sultana, vanilla cream, almonds, and evergreen.

These notes are quite floral on the nose and well balanced, with no hint of excessive aging.

The palate is polished, deep, and continuously evolving, with a long spicy finish.

The oak notes reveal that this whisky has some years on it, but they in no way dominate or detract from the other flavors.

This rivals the 1959 vintages as the best of the Cellar Collection releases.

Aromas of mature oak, leather, ripe fruit, and toffee, are very deep and well balanced.

Its flavors are rich and enveloping, with notes of treacle, toffee, roasted nuts, and a long, spicy, woody finish that lingers.

My feeling on any whisky finished in a different cask is this: it should give as much to the flavor profile as it takes away.

It’s not as nimble as younger versions, but the sherry, along with the extra aging, contributes a silky texture and a richer, fuller dimension to the whisky.

I can still detect some of the peach, vanilla, tropical fruit, and honeyed malt I enjoy in younger expressions, but its key flavor components are toffee, honey-dipped citrus, red licorice, chocolate-covered almonds, and fig, along with dried spice (cinnamon, nutmeg, mint tea) that emerges on the palate and peaks on the finish.

A clean, malty foundation accentuated by bright complex fruit, delicate spice, dried flowers, and gentle honeyed vanilla notes that linger on the palate.

This is a wonderful whisky which is very versatile, but I can only imagine what it would taste like at 46% and unchill-filtered like the wood finish expressions.

Astar’s flavor profile is similar to Glenmorangie 10 year old in many respects, showing a superb balance of sweetness, fruit, and spice.

It’s not as subtle as the 10 year old expression, but it is creamier, richer, and fleshier, with loads of honeyed vanilla, coconut cream pie, toasted almond, vibrant spice (cinnamon, mint), and a basketful of citrus and summer fruits.

The fact that it is bottled at 100 British Proof (57.1% abv) just accentuates every flavor and helps to make this whisky quite invigorating.

I don’t rate very many ten year old (or younger ) whiskies over 90.

Glenmorangie Pride employs the use of Sauternes barriques to give a 10 year period of secondary maturation to a batch of spirit distilled in 1981.

The result is a whisky with an intense, pungent, earthy nose; very complex, with polished old furniture notes, spices, oak tannins, and licorice.

The palate is ‘full on’ for a Glenmorangie; waxy, with sherbet, honey, and baked apple, then orange marmalade, sultana, and a hint of smoke in the lengthy finish.

A polished, very elegant expression with subtle complexity throughout.

Notes of squeaky-clean fruit (tangerine, peach, nectarine, kiwi) in light syrup.

Vibrant spice (cinnamon, white pepper, anise), creamy vanilla, and almond evolve on the palate, leading to a gentle finish.

When I think of great Glenrothes vintages, I go back to the 1972 vintage for comparison.

Both are comparable in quality, with the 1972 vintage showing darker sugars, more weight, and more roasted nuts.

Made from whisky aged in second fill American oak sherry casks, distilled between 1973 to 1987.

Richly malty, with honeyed citrus, juicy oak, chocolate fudge, and nougat.

More subtle floral notes, licorice (red and black), ginger, and chamomile tea.

Fresh, appetizing brine and spice (cinnamon, vanilla, white pepper, and clove) on a bed of soft honey and creamy vanilla, with just a hint of fruit.

The good news: This is one of the best Highland Park whiskies I have ever tasted.

The bad news: it’s the new release for Travel Retail (formerly Duty Free).

Well-defined notes of toffee, candied fruit, and roasted nuts are accentuated by background honey, chocolate mousse, and smoke.

Here’s the icing on the cake: it’s bottled at 47.5%, which really allows the flavors to shine.

A complex array of dried fruit on the nose, peppered with dried spice, orange marmalade, dark chocolate, and wood shavings.

On the palate, the immediate impact is once again marmalade, followed briefly by bramble before drier notes of dark chocolate, wood shavings, anise, and subtle smoke emerge.

A delicious, contemplative 40 year old Highland Park that has aged gracefully.

Out of curiosity, I tasted it next to the other great Highland Parks (the 30 year old and several very good single cask bottlings over 30 years old).

Its only down side is that it’s a lot more expensive than the others.

Notes of lemon tart, clementine, plum, honeyed vanilla, and polished oak, peppered with clove, soft mint, marshmallow, and subtle toasted coconut.

An extremely limited edition issued at last year’s Islay Jazz Fest, this was chosen by warehouseman Iain McArthur as a prime example of a ‘bodega’ sherry butt (see page XX for more on the ‘bodega’ process).

It is, simply, massive, with concentrated soy/balsamic notes combining with hot embers, burning rosemary, fig, coffee, and candied peels.

The smokiness is unrestrained on the tongue; all soot, earth, and a rolling wave of deep, pimento-accented meatiness leading to a kippery finish.

A sherry-cask Lagavulin, this immediately shows a rich, mellow power with a touch of potter’s wheel, but it needs water to bring out sandalwood, beach bonfire, kombu, Lapsang Souchong, and bog myrtle.

The palate is where it shows itself fully; resinous and thick, unctuous even, with that scented pine/juniper tea note shifting into paprika-rubbed ham, membrillo, currants, blackberry.

I’ve a feeling that this period will be seen as Lagavulin’s golden age.

This cask strength, sherry cask matured expression was released as part of Lagavulin’s bicentennial celebration.

The nose offers new leather, tropical fruits, brittle toffee, and brine, backed by spicy peat smoke.

The rich, well-mannered palate boasts sweet peat, brine, muted sherry, figs, gentle spices, tangerines, and lemons.

Peaty, smoky, mature aromas, with notes of damp earth, pencil shavings, seaweed, brine, and vanilla.

Flavors are similar to its aroma, with a spicy, salty, black pepper, dryish finish.

Fresh brine, toasted coconut, bright citrus fruit, and subtle mint on a bed of vanilla cream and honeyed malt.

The peat smoke is restrained on the nose, but is more assertive on the palate, and it really kicks in on the finish, which is briny, smoky, appetizing, and long.

If it would only just open up a little more on the nose it would challenge the best from ‘73 and ‘74.

Aromas are very mature and so thick, one almost needs a knife to cut it.

Notes of dried fruit (orange, lemons, pineapple) and wood spices (especially clove), with more than a suggestion of peat smoke.

Thick, enveloping texture-like a warm coat on a bitterly cold day.

One can easily deduce this is a very old whisky-the woodiness is evident on the palate.

There’s plenty of dried fruit, enticing wood spices, and peat to keep the palate entertained, all the way through to its very long, dry finish.

Bright fruit, teasing toffee, complex spices, cereal grain, and underlying light leather notes are all tightly integrated.

Deep amber in color with the green glints of first-fill sherry, this has bosky notes and meat—mutton and venison—plus graphite, bitter chocolate, and wet rock before layers of dried stone fruits and date.

The palate is feral and earthy; think mushroom with game pie, and rowan berries.

Deep, but with more dimensions than the previous 16 year old which, in comparison, seems like a blunt instrument.

Port Ellen whiskies are just going to keep getting rarer and more expensive.

This old-fashioned whisky is beginning to show its age, but is still holding up nicely.

It’s clean, with no excessive oak, and a soft, sweet maltiness for balance.

Earthy and rooty at times, with tarry rope, beach pebbles, leafy smoke, bourbon barrel char, black licorice, lemon peel, and hints of shellfish and diesel fumes (like following a boat in the ocean).

Now the one that peat freaks wait patiently for every year, which makes it the bottling that produces the most debate.

For me, this is up there with last year’s bottling, which itself ushered in a return to high standards after a slight dropping-off in expressiveness.

Yes, the color is as pale as ever — has anyone ever tasted an over-oaked Port Ellen? — and yes, the nose initially shows all of the distillery’s austere notes: think of a wet fish counter and the sensation of the sea rather than overt ‘fishiness,’ while there’s also a chilled cucumber note.

The difference is the sweetness, which is more to the fore, and also, it would seem, a slight dropping-off in massive smokiness.

The palate has a numb spot right on the front, then wasabi-like heat coupled with olive oil.

Soon the sea rolls in and it stands there like some creature from the Black Lagoon covered with balls of tar, draped in wet seaweed, encrusted with barnacles and clams — and clutching a kipper.

But don’t forget the sweetness that spreads across the tongue and slowly drifts into fresh spice and antiseptic.

Scarcity and the secondary market have driven prices up, so either buddy-up to a rich guy, or club together to try this.

Greater levels of cask interaction have added an extra dimension to a whisky that is often skeletal.

The smoke’s in the background, as salted cashew, peppermint, tansy, furniture polish, and smoked meats take center stage.

The palate is slowly expanding and smoked, with some chocolate and wax.

The sixteenth Special Releases Port Ellen is the oldest to date.

Initially, sea breeze on the nose, brine, rock pools, and gentle iodine, followed by dried fruits, peat, and wood polish.

Full-bodied, very silky, again with brine to the fore, plus sweet peat, drying slowly, ginger, black pepper, and balancing tropical fruit notes.

The nose offers fresh-mown grass, ripe pears, and damp tweed, before smoked fish and bonfire aromas emerge.

The oily palate features spicy peat, barbecued meat, and peaches in syrup.

Very long in the finish; smoky and earthy, with a hint of chili and mouth-drying tannins.

In addition to wood spices, I also found notes of roasted nuts, coconuts, orange marmalade, anise, and subtle brine.

Thick and syrupy in texture, with complex flavors that echo its aroma.

Ripe, fallen fruit aromas laced with coconut, marshmallow, and almonds.

The sherry cask influence is very prominent on the nose, but the Springbank "brine" character still manages to fight through.

Huge flavors with great balance and depth, consisting of exotic fruits, complex wood spices, brine, and coconut.

Aromatically fruity and quite full, with wonderful depth on the nose and palate.

The fruit (golden raisins, apricot, red licorice, papaya) is balanced by restrained honey, vanilla, and fennel.

Surprisingly clean and youthful for a 30 year old, both on the nose and palate.

Complex, too, with a sea breeze freshness, vanilla malt, polished oak spice, smoked seaweed, lightly tarred boat docks, toasted nuts, and lingering telicherry pepper.

Rivals the original Talisker 25 year old and the Talisker 18 year old as one of the finest Talisker whiskies ever released.

A sophisticated and refined Talisker, if that’s not an oxymoron.

This 18 year old is deeper too, with less of the fishnets, more of oak boat docks.

There’s a fine line between polishing the rough edges of a beautifully powerful whisky and ripping its heart and soul out with a knife by dumbing it down.

TLD’s sixth release captivates with dark caramel, Brazil nut, polished oak, cacao, scorched earth, grilled field mushroom, and roasted coffee bean aromas.

To sip is to submit to a discombobulating whirl of cherry and jellied black fruits replete with old sherry characteristics, replaced by an unctuous, oily base, torn asunder by seething spices of clove, pepper, and star anise.

Cherry fudge, marshmallow, vanilla pod, ristretto, luscious caramel, almond-topped Dundee cake, and wood spices.

Dark, oily, and muscular, with burnished orange, clove, licorice, and burnt char.

Sweetness brims over the tongue with apple, pear,
and malted barley as it softens to a beautiful velvety texture.

The baked apricot instigates an eternal finish (1,352 bottles, 300 for the U.S.)

Well-structured and masculine with its rich malty backbone and mouth-coating fruit.

Yet, there’s a silky, seductive underbelly that’s very compelling.

Notes of sultana, honey-drenched mandarin, ripe peach, thick toffee, and anise, with a peppering of spice throughout, especially toward the finish, where a hint of smoke emerges.

The grain whisky enhances the blend’s allure by cutting through the whisky’s viscosity, making it very more-ish.

I love the combination of drinkability, flavor, complexity, and balance in this blend.

There has been an excellent streak of Islay blended malts recently, and here is another worthy contender from the Spencerfield Spirit Company.

This one offers the sizzle of bacon fat, thick clods of peat, cocoa, and breezy smoke.

The rounded palate has sweet satsuma, spice, generous malty notes, and burnt caramel.

The wafting smoke builds until it engulfs the back of the palate.

Distilled in 1988 and finished for an unspecified period in port casks after lengthy maturation in bourbon barrels.

Vanilla fudge, cocktail cherries, polished oak, and gentle spices.

Soft and sweet on the palate, with vanilla, overripe orange, cinnamon, and milky coffee.

Long and slightly peppery on the finish, with persistent drying fruitiness.

This remains one of my favorite whiskies ever, a classic example of what long, slow aging in a refill cask can do for a whisky — increase its unctuous nature, bring out butterscotch, ginseng, honey, deepen the orchard fruits, and release a dazzling spiciness on the tongue.

That rarely-spotted beast Dailuaine gets the Special Release treatment.

This example has come from refill American oak and has immediate marzipan notes on top of the distillery’s fascinating mix of meaty density and sweetness.

In time there are fat fruits, Victoria plum, bitter citrus, faded green leafiness, and chocolate notes.

The palate is ripe, rich, and profound, with a hint of tropical fruits cut with cacao.

Long, elegant, and complex, this is the best of this year’s bunch for me.

Launched a few years ago with a Dr. Haddock-like cartoon figure on the label, Big Peat does just what it suggests it does…and then some.

It's a mix of Islay peated malts and includes some Port Ellen, but don't get distracted by that.

Instead, indulge yourself in the biggest, peatiest, oiliest, earthiest, grungiest, gunkiest slab of industrial malt this side of a leaky steam engine.

Peat has grown up to become the best version of himself that he can be.

It’s like walking on an Islay beach through seaweed stranded at the high-tide mark.

Lemon lozenges, Sweethearts, flashes of citrus, stewed apple, and growing smoke.

The gentle, glossy, mouth-coating finish generates an urge to expertly puff smoke rings out through pursed lips.

Sherry cask matured in its entirety, this rich, southern Highland beauty exudes a perfume of deep orange, sweet cherry, plum, nutty fruitcake, and pleasant oak.

Beautifully balanced, it showcases sweet orange, red fruits, baked Victoria plum, and brown sugar, while ginger and pepper sparkle across the tongue.

Hazelnut, mixed peel, peach cobbler, and wood spices form a delightful olfactory combination.

Warm, weighty sherry notes bathe the mouth with ginger loaf, milk chocolate chunks, and espresso in support, lilting toward a lip-smacking finish of peach melba and amontillado sherry.

It’s increasingly rare to find a top-quality aged independent Macallan, so don’t miss out.

Containing some precious closed distillery stocks, this feels like the height of luxury with its aromas of clove-studded oranges, cinnamon sticks, rich chocolate, and caramels.

It’s slick and mouth-coating, emitting flavors of butter toffee, orange, and melted chocolate, with a nibble of ginger sponge, Jaffa cakes, and clove.

Maple syrup, pecan, sliced peach, and vanilla-laden bread-and-butter pudding.

Soft baked-apple tart, smooth sticky toffee pudding, red apples, oozing with caramels and a fine layer of spice.

Douglas Laing has brought out some amazing grains lately, but this is better than ever.

Exclusive Malts doesn't disclose the source distillery, which doesn't matter when you’ve got a whisky that’s a gem.

Apple cider defines the nose and is complemented by ginger and iris.

On the palate this whisky is lush but well balanced, with honeyed apple cider, gingerbread cookie, and baked apple.

Ginger spice and baked apple define the finish, which is long and flavorful.

You are missing a trick if you don’t snap up these small batch blended malts when you see them.

Savory beef juices, black fruits, particularly black currant, loose Keemun tea, and dense oak characteristics.

Sweet baked orange with notable alcohols initially, then tangy with caramelized brown sugar, butterscotch, dark rum, Brazil nut, pepper, cacao, and black currant puree.

This grand old Highlander brings warm flapjacks baked with golden syrup, nutmeg, oak spices, toffee brittle, toasted muffin, cinnamon sticks, and beeswax polish.

The oat breakfast cereals and caramel beckon in a fruit explosion of mango, burnt orange, raspberry, banana chips, and papaya.

Rejoice in that dense, ever-changing satin mouthfeel, with Invergordon’s grain character only more apparent toward the end.

This single cask, distilled at Highland Park, is an excellent example of why distilleries sell off certain casks.

On the nose it’s Highland Park's signature sherry and peat, but on the palate it's a beast.

This builds to a peak with smoke, salt, and oak spice, bolstered by the high proof.

A smoky, dry finish rounds off a monster whisky, different from Highland Park's style, but very interesting.

Full, rich rancio aroma, which brings to mind an ancient cognac.

It is rich and powerful, but has great finesse and perfect balance: cooked fruit, some spice, a lot of waxiness, licorice…and then the distillery’s signature meatiness.

The palate starts sweetly with ripe old autumn fruits, and soft tannins.

This has everything you want from a mature whisky, and from Mortlach, with added elegance.

Balanced Islay whiskies combine peat smoke characteristics with a sweet foundation.

Creamy vanilla, caramel, and honey harmoniously marry with persistent -- yet controlled -- peat smoke.

This is a vatting of two single malts: the malty and sometimes smoky Ardmore and the always smoky and spicy Caol Ila.

The whisky expresses smartly complex aromas of smoky bonfire smothered with peat, with notes of tar, olives, freshly ground pepper, and seaweed.

A sweet maltiness (from the Ardmore?) binds the flavors together.

On the palate, the whisky begins sweet, then the powerful peat smoke emerges, yielding to olives, peppery spices, and seaweed.

The finish is long and powerful with the peat smoke again emerging and lingering on seemingly forever.

Many smoky whiskies have nothing else going on behind the cloak of smoke.

Compass Box Whiskies celebrates the fifth anniversary of The Peat Monster by thinking big: bigger intensity, put into a bigger bottle.

This bold whisky is packed with Islay and coastal character, showing tarry rope, brine, and a hint of seaweed, along with teasing smoked olive, anise, and mustard seed.

There is some civility to the whisky: sweeter notes of vanilla wafer, baked apple, ripe peach, and cream attempt to soften the blow.

In my book, the bar can't be set much higher than it is for Flaming Heart and this latest version doesn't disappoint, though it does head off into a scuzzier, grittier, and more peaty direction than the 10th anniversary bottling, and has lost some of the black currant fruitiness in the process.

No matter: this smolders with peaty and fishy intensity, works its way round to tinned strawberries, damson, and berry fruits, and emerges sooty and smoky.

Peat Monster is a staple Compass Box blended malt whisky, but this raises the bar significantly.

But on the palate John Glaser's added some peaty Highland whisky—probably a signature Clynelish—to add a hint of licorice, a softer, fruitier smoke base, and through some virgin French oak, a delightful spiciness.

The original Great King Street blend was all sweet lemon and spice.

This is a gutsy, urban wise guy of a whisky, rich in peat, with distinctive malty flavors—all in all, closer to a malt than a blend.

That's because of the high malt content, and only the rounded edges and soft finish are gilded by grain.

Some fruit and spice emerge through the peat, but the smoke's what you remember—a master class in blending.

This surrealist Compass Box whisky mimics the dimensional challenges of Magritte’s “Ceci n’est pas une pipe” by raising questions about the luxury pretensions of whisky.

Masquerading behind a green apple, a bowler-hatted John Glaser smiles enigmatically.

Sultanas, charcoal smoke, toffee, chocolate, sea salt, and warm sherry tones.

The alcohol rides with dense black cherry, cacao nibs, Colombian coffee, and dark fruits.

Ringmaster John Glaser’s latest Big Top attraction: the nose juggles dark marmalade, almonds, sweet sherry, dates, and dried pineapple.

Flavors swing like a trapeze between deep orange, dried tropical fruits, nuts, and chocolate, with the silky composure of a seal balancing a ball on its nose.

Ridiculously smooth; if you’re looking for burn, try fire eating instead.

Knife throwers accurately pinpoint the finish: fruit, (thud) chocolate (thud), spice (THUD).

Yes, there’s pine needles, zested lemons, honey, sanded wood, nutmeg, and cinnamon within this Islay-dominated blend, but it’s the billowing peat smoke that makes this special.

It reeks gloriously of stacked fish boxes and heavy braided ropes on the pier.

The dark fruit, baked lemons, cherry, clove, and cooked plum face entanglement in a labyrinth of shadowy stygian smoke.

This eloquent blended grain marks CBWC’s 15th anniversary and the combination of these aged grains is idiosyncratic of whisky auteur John Glaser’s distinctive taste.

Rich honey, apricot stone, crisp spices, vanilla custard, gentle oak char, and tropical fruits promise a real reward.

Succulently juicy, with melon, apple, and caramel, subtly paced, with chocolate and dark fruit infiltrating.

Slowly the sweetness depletes to black pepper and spiced roast meats.

Closer to the heart of JW than its predecessors, Mastery of Oak follows a methodically complicated maturation and blending regime.

American oak characteristics, singed cedar spills, damson jam, stewed apple, and rhubarb laced with peppery spice, nutmeg, and clove.

A dichotomy of flavors: toffee apple and rhubarb become piquant, verging on sour, with a parallel strand of honey and Caramac.

Heather honey sweetness, Belgian waffles, cinnamon, rye spices, creamy vanilla, peppercorn, and dried porcini emerge after the 6-month rye cask finishing period.

Sweet caramel oozes over the tongue, Highland toffee and Orkney fudge hold the spices in check.

Banana candy and deep citrus acknowledge the Dufftown single malt component.

Vanilla, almond slice, toffee, pencil shavings, sweet oak, and mild wood spices on the nose.

Effortlessly smooth and delicate, this warms up gradually, with malt, dark fudge, leather, raisin, and tobacco notes before the wood spices, oak, and chocolate take center stage, ending with a warm, lengthy finish.

This must be master blender Colin Scott’s most preciously guarded recipe.

Luscious toffee, cinnamon, nutmeg, chocolate praline, dry grasses, hazelnut, and just a lift of lime and peppermint.

The palate has fudge-like sweetness, caramel, walnut cake, murmuring spices, orange peel, and toffee banana.

The spices push hard through the finish as the toffee flavors relinquish their grip.

Signature is Dewar’s introduction into the ultra-premium blended scotch category.

Like Johnnie Walker Blue, Signature bears no age statement, but I’m told that a 27 year old Aberfeldy is the heart of the blend.

The first release consists only of 1,000 individually numbered bottles, and they’re only available in New York City.

I’m always a little skeptical of very expensive blends that come in fancy packages.

There are some very good, reasonably priced blends in the 10-20 year old range, and the expensive ones are often only marginally better, if that.

But I like this whisky a whole lot better than the standard Dewar’s White Label, and it is also superior to Dewar’s 12 year old-a whisky which I find to be quite enjoyable.

While maintaining the Dewar’s profile-nicely balanced-this whisky offers greater depth, maturity, and complexity without being too woody-a creamy, malty foundation makes sure of that.

The whisky expresses a rich, honeyed maltiness which combines nicely with notes of golden raisins, vanilla, caramel, and crème brûlée, with just a hint of spicy oak notes for complexity.

Signature is a different style when compared to Johnnie Walker Blue-it’s more elegant and bashful-but, like Blue, I put Signature on my short list of the finest blends on the market.

This whisky packs a lot of clean, complex, and well-balanced flavors.

It features a creamy, layered, malty-sweet foundation (vanilla, caramel, toffee) chock full of bright fruit (golden raisin, honeyed orchard fruit, currant), rounded out by firm, dried spice (cinnamon, nutmeg, mint) that dances on the palate.

This has a significant proportion of sherry wood and it marks a real step up from its younger stablemates.

It boasts a stylish nose of old leathery cigar boxes, vanilla, and orange marmalade.

Syrupy on the palate, with oranges, sweet sherry, honey, and figs.

Spicy oak, caramel, citrus fruits, and aniseed in the lengthy finish.

Quite fruity, with notes of golden raisin, pineapple, nectarine, and tangerine.

A dusting of vanilla, cinnamon, and hint of cocoa, with black licorice on the finish.

Some of the best intensely smoky, peaty Islay whiskies are balanced with a foundation of malty sweetness.

A sinewy malt with the classic bold notes of kiln smoke, peat, tarry rope, and coal ash.

Sweeter notes of honeyed malt, ripe vanilla, chocolate fudge, and toasted marshmallow temper and sooth the palate, along with background berry confit.

Similar to the standard Ardbeg 10 year old, except that a portion of the whisky was aged in heavily charred barrels (referred to as an “alligator” char).

An aggressive whisky — even for Ardbeg — with a leathery texture throughout.

Dynamic too, with coal tar, soot, bourbon barrel char, espresso, cocoa, licorice root, smoked fish, and a hint of ginger.

There’s a nice creamy vanilla underbelly to balance the aggressiveness and (at least partially) muzzle the Alligator.

This isn’t quite a distillery-only bottling so much as a bottle only available at the distillery — which isn’t exactly the same thing.

Bottled more than 10 years ago to mark the distillery’s centenary, incredibly a small amount is still available, and it is well worth pursuing.

Until relatively recently Ardmore was an industry secret, cherished by those in the know.

But the peaty and feisty no-age-statement Ardmore Traditional has introduced the malt to a new generation of drinkers, and last year’s sweet and fruity 25 year old suggested that the distillery has a potentially diverse range of future treasures to be excited about.

Orange flavors and peat team up to steer a middle way for what is a delicious and highly more-ish malt.

Its only flaw is in the finish, which dies away too quickly for this palate.

No matter, it’s like the fade out of the guitar solo at the end of your favorite track; it’s a bit frustrating because you want it to go on and on, but it doesn’t stop you going back and listening to it all again.

A vatting of selected casks located at Balvenie’s No. 24 warehouse in Dufftown, this is made up of seven ex-bourbon casks and three butts whose ages range from 1967 to 1989, all of which are then ‘married’ in a large vat (aka a ‘tun’).

There’s classic Balvenie honey, along with macadamia, pistachio, and caramelized fruits.

As it opens, it shifts into a high-class gentleman’s cologne: musk and sandalwood with some mulberry to add depth.

(BenRiach does not differentiate their peated expressions with a different name, as Springbank does with Longrow, or Tobermory with Ledaig.)

Both influences are very evident, with the deep, heavy, earthy, smoky notes complemented by dark, fleshy, dried fruit.

I think the two different influences marry very nicely here and I really enjoy drinking it.

This 41 year old single cask was aged in a sherry butt and interacted magnificently with that wood.

The nose offers peeled red apples, sultanas, honey, fudge, milk chocolate, and American cream soda.

Balanced and harmonious throughout, the palate yields remarkably fresh orchard fruits, pipe tobacco, black pepper, and ginger.

Long in the finish, with cinnamon drying to dark chocolate, and slightly smoky, unobtrusively tannic oak.

This 42 year old expression was matured in a single American oak hogshead (#4606) and offers a lovely mature, fruity nose, especially peaches and pineapple, plus vanilla and marzipan.

Smooth and rich on the palate, with sherry, hessian, and spicy pineapple.

Aroma and flavors are very reminiscent of the "Black Bowmore" releases: burnt fruit, roasted nuts, fruit cake, polished leather, wood resin, and just a teasing of smoke.

There is a harmonious balance between the dry oak spices and the sweet, fruity oloroso sherry notes.

Only 300 bottles, available this fall at specialty retailers nationwide.

This whisky was distilled around the same time-and is very similar in flavor profile-as the legendary "Black Bowmore" whiskies released several years ago.

Having tried this whisky next to the previous Black Bowmores, I can happily say that this whisky is as good as they are (although a lot more expensive).

While the original Black Bowmore whiskies are a little bigger and fuller in body (especially towards the finish), this new 1964 Vintage is a tad softer, sweeter, more rounded, and more seductive.

This is a very contemplative whisky-the more attention you devote to it, the more pleasure it gives you.

This is a five year old expression of the more highly peated Bruichladdich whisky being referred to as Port Charlotte (named after the now-silent distillery down the road from Bruichladdich).

If you like your smoky Islay whiskies young and masculine, this one is for you.

With further investigation, there are spice notes of black pepper and black licorice stick.

What really makes this whisky multi-dimensional and balanced is its sweet underbelly of thick toffee, jammy fruit, and almond butter.

Originally filled into 22 third-fill bourbon casks, this 32 year old was re-casked into first-fill bourbon barrels in 2012, then finished in French oak wine barrels.

Fresh peaches on the nose, with vanilla fudge, honey, and ginger.

Fruity and spicy on the luscious palate, with orange, cinnamon, and coconut.

Long in the finish, with ever-present fruitiness, plus prickly chili notes.

Creamier than the 12-bigger too, with broader shoulders and greater depth.

Fairly sweet up front, with vanilla-laced malt, chewy toffee, and ripe fruit.

Almond fudge and a hint of espresso add intrigue, while dry wood spice on the finish underpins the whisky's characteristic sweetness.

Very fruity too, with Seville orange, peaches in syrup, clementine, pineapple, and bramble.

Sugared almond, powdered vanilla, ginger, and lush sherry on the finish add depth and dimension.

I feel that any more sherry influence here would have been counterproductive.

Back due to popular demand in the U.S., this new incarnation of the Cigar Malt sees the percentage of ex-oloroso ‘Matusalem’ sherry wood ramped up from 60 to 70 percent.

Fragrant, with figs, cinnamon, ripe oranges, and glacé cherries.

Robust sweet toffee and mango flavors, with oloroso sherry, vanilla, and lively spices.

Medium to long in the finish, with ginger, treacle, and licorice.

This is comprised of whisky aged in a bourbon barrel, a 30 year old Matusalem sherry butt, and a Colheita port pipe.

Figs and malt on the early nose; resinous, with tangerines, vanilla, and soft leather.

Slightly thin on the palate, but very smooth, with spiced orange, dates, and coffee grounds.

Dries very slowly in the finish, with persistent orange, a sprinkling of black pepper, and a suggestion of mouth-drying oak.

Quintessence is the first single malt to have undergone secondary maturation in five different types of California red wine casks: zinfandel, pinot noir, syrah, merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Sweet sherry, ripe cherries, marzipan, and white pepper on the nose.

Rich and mouth-coating; strong flavor of thick-cut orange marmalade, oloroso sherry, malt, and milk chocolate.

The finish features gentle warming spice and lingering Jaffa orange.

Plain chocolate and orange notes seem as though they are never going to end!

This was initially matured in American oak bourbon barrels, then spent 7 years in 30 year old Matusalem sherry butts before 2 years of finishing in first-fill bourbon casks.

The nose yields orange marmalade, wood resin, toasted brioche, and cocktail cherries.

Apricot fruitiness on the early palate, then vanilla, ginger, and treacle.

The finish is medium in length, with orange peel, fennel, and gentle spices.

One of the first wood finishing efforts under Edradour’s new management.

Very creamy in texture, with notes of sticky toffee, vanilla fudge, fruit cake, raisin, and burnt almonds.

The flavors dovetail nicely, with a soothing, satisfying finish.

I am amazed by how many old, sherried Glen Grant whiskies have been released to the market in the past ten years.

(Did the distillery owners at the time also own sherry bodegas, or what?)

Anyway, some of these have been dark, decadent, and delicious, and I’ll put this whisky in that category.

Chestnut colored, with lush fruit, treacle, dark chocolate, leather, tobacco, roasted walnuts, and cherry cough syrup.

Superb mature nose with subtle whisky rancio, mixing fragrant mango with a little mint, rosewater, and waxiness; there’s even some custard and a whiff of woodsmoke before sandalwood brings back the exotic edge.

The palate is delicate with an amazingly fresh acidity that becomes herbal (basil and tarragon).

It’s late summer, when there’s a sense of the year turning, and you allow fond memories to gently wash over you.

Quite earthy, with orris root, burlap, and dunnage warehouse notes.

This untamed edge—think Mortlach or Benrinnes—dominates the palate, but the cask (a refill butt) isn’t overstating its presence.

If your preference is for more robust styles, then look no further.

Aromas of dried citrus, lemongrass, and ginger with background honeyed vanilla, dried herb, bouquet of roses, and a wisp of smoke.

Very long and evolving on the palate, going from sweet to dry: vanilla custard, crème brulee, white chocolate, candied citrus, juicy oak, polished leather, dried tobacco, and then resinous oak, with teasing dry roasted nuts and hint of peat bog throughout.

I can tell that it’s an old whisky, but it shows good complexity.

When compared to the 30 year old and 40 year old expressions, it’s actually more vibrant and youthful than the 40 sample I have.

Yet it doesn’t have the deft balance and roundness which I consider a hallmark of the 30.

Bottom line here: Anyone who can afford this whisky and actually drinks it will not be disappointed.

But for us regular folk, try to pick up a 30 year old Glenfiddich if you can find one and you won’t go wrong with the whisky -- or the price (relatively speaking, that is).

A classic mature ‘Fiddich nose, that mix of chocolate, sweet fruits, and funkiness.

Dried apples, a little currant, but also a pure thread of sweetness.

Soft on the tongue, so you need to concentrate on what’s happening.

Later becomes minty, with supple tannins and a little artichoke on the finish.

Water needs to be handled carefully to bring out green herbal notes.

The Renaissance began with a 15 year old expression and charts the same spirit as it continues to mature.

Aged in bourbon and sherry casks, the 3rd Chapter exhibits a sweet and sophisticated nose of honey, milk chocolate, Brazil nuts, toffee, and ripe peaches.

Supple on the palate, with luscious orange and peach notes, vanilla, oak, and subtle spice.

Plain chocolate-coated orange confectionery in the finish, with caramel and ginger.

A first-fill sherry cask bottling (one cask, exclusive to North America).

Some of the old Glenglassaugh whiskies can be very delicious, and this is one of them.

It's very clean, lush, and fruity (bramble, citrus, golden raisin), with a kiss of honey, toffee, and soft spice.

A very nice whisky from a quality cask that tastes more like 21 or 25 years old than 37.

Glengoyne 35 year old has been aged in sherry casks and just 500 decanters have been released.

The nose offers sweet sherry, maraschino cherries, honey, sponge cake, marzipan, and soft fudge, turning to caramel in time, with a whiff of worn leather.

Slick in the mouth, with spicy dried fruit, and more marzipan and cherries.

Long in the finish with plain chocolate cherry liqueur; still spicy.

No negative cask connotations in this well-balanced after-dinner dram.

Matured in one-third first-fill  European oak sherry butts and  two-thirds refill sherry butts.

Rich  sherry notes on the nose, with vanilla, sultanas, raisins, cherry blossom, and  a hint of new leather.

Initially, smooth  and very sweet orchard fruits on the palate, with cherry liqueur turning to black tea and fennel.

Whiskies distilled at Glenlivet might be easy to find throughout the world, but this is a good thing.

It’s elegantly complex, with a tropical accent (coconut, pineapple), strawberries with whipped cream, and caramel-dipped apple.

The sweetness is never heavy or cloying, and it’s balanced by lovely dried spice throughout (vanilla, ginger, soft mint, nutmeg), and especially towards the finish.

A special bottling to celebrate a major distillery expansion in 2010.

So nice to see this whisky bottled at cask strength and not chill-filtered.

Creamy sweet foundation of vanilla fudge and caramel-coated almond.

Plenty of fruit, too (golden raisin, honeyed peach, ripe nectarine, hint of banana bread).

Richly textured, good weight (but not cloying), and the flavors combine seamlessly.

A quintet of releases showing examples of The Glenlivet from five decades, issued to support The Glenlivet Generations 70 year old bottling.

All are available individually or in a limited edition set (50 only) for £2,850; these bottlings are not currently available in the U.S.

First-fill sherry wood makes a return here and adds its own rich dried fruitiness — think sultana cake — to the exotic whisky rancio notes of cheese rind, sealing wax, and roasting pheasant.

As it opens, there’s fig, some peat smoke, black cherry, and concentrated stone fruits.

This exotic/savory/sweet interplay continues on the tongue where there’s a surprising hint of mint and some pear blossom.

This expression is reputed to contain some whisky up to 40 years old and was matured in a mix of bourbon and sherry casks.

The nose offers overt sherry influences, with fruit malt loaf, maple syrup, honey, and old leather.

Full and slightly oily on the rich palate, with toffee, raisins, Brazil nuts, and fresh cake mix.

Full, complex aromas of fruit (cherries, currants, berries), marzipan, Demerara sugar, roasted nuts, and molasses.

Full in body, with flavors that deliver what its aroma promised.

The first release in Glenmorangie’s new Vintage Collection, named Bond House No.1 after the 19th century warehouse that became the distillery’s new stillhouse in 1990.

Very smooth on the palate, with malt, vanilla, more honey, and milk chocolate orange.

Attractive soft oak notes and gentle herbal spice in the medium to long finish.

A heavy, honeyed maltiness provides the foundation of this whisky, with interwoven candied fruit notes (orange, tangerine, sultana), red and black licorice, toffee, and toasted almonds.

What impresses me most about this whisky is how it evolves on the palate and continues evolving through its lengthy finish.

Glenrothes is one of those Speyside whiskies which matures very gracefully.

Recent distillery bottlings (i.e. the 1979 and 1972 vintages) prove this point.

This Signatory bottling also demonstrates that Glenrothes has the ability to get older and better.

In this offering, the palate-coating, sticky caramel, syrupy maltiness of the whisky is rescued by firm, bold dry oak spice and lush fruit.

The 30 years in oak gives this whisky great depth, and bottling the whisky at natural cask strength ensures that the whisky is not cut off at the knees.

Matured in a mixture of first-fill American sherry hogsheads and refill sherry butts, this is rich and fragrant on the nose, with dark berries and marzipan, then glacé cherries and wood polish.

The palate is voluptuous with spicy dark fruit, Christmas cake, vanilla, milk chocolate, and a hint of dark rum.

Dried fruits in the finish, with raisins, aniseed, and soft oak.

At 29 years old this single cask is one of the best releases to date from the Perthshire distillery.

The nose offers geraniums, honey, almonds, and toasted brioche, while the palate is creamy with vanilla, heather, a fresh menthol note, and green apples.

Drying only slightly, and spicy to the end—predominantly ginger.

Antique gold, relatively light in color compared to the rest of the Highland Parks reviewed here.

Nicely rounded on the nose and palate, and surprisingly youthful for such maturity.

Quite fruity -- especially with some water -- with notes of honey-drenched citrus, sultana, key lime pie, and melon.

Caramel and bitter chocolate notes emerge, with the chocolate and a wisp of smoke lingering on the finish.

Rich, deep, and muscular on the nose and palate -- and very polished.

Notes of caramel/butterscotch-coated citrus (lemon, Clementine) honeyed tropical fruit (coconut, pineapple), peaches and cream, creamy vanilla, and ripe barley, along with more subtle smoke, cut grass, and ginger.

Firm, dry, resinous grip on the finish keeps all the sweetness in check.

(Available only at the Highland Park distillery, their on-line shop, and in Scandinavia.)£65

The second in a series of three high-strength, limited edition Highland Park whiskies, and a rather bold expression.

Nicely sherried and noticeably smoky — more than a standard Highland Park.

Throw in some toffee apple, Cointreau, and waxed fruit for intrigue.

One of two recent vintage releases, this 1971 example has been matured in seventeen Spanish oak casks, that yielded a total of 657 bottles.

Bold fruit and peat notes on the palate, plus oak, cloves, and dark chocolate notes.

Peppery in the long finish, with subtle tannins and persistent citrus fruits.

Matured exclusively in sherry-seasoned first-fill European oak casks and bottled at cask strength.

The nose yields figs, soft smoke, cinnamon, sugarcane, and rich fruitcake.

The palate is succulent and confident, with creamy sweet sherry, dried fruits, coffee, and woodsmoke.

Lagavulin is a classic example of how smoke isn’t a blunt instrument that covers everything in a fog, but an element that works with all the flavors produced in distillation and maturation.

Lagavulin isn’t ‘smoky,’ its peat moves into a weird territory of Lapsang Souchong tea and pipe tobacco, fishboxes and kippers.

The palate shows more creosote, with hints of kelp and a little touch of iodine.

This is huge, fluxing, and complex, mixing saddles and dark chocolate, pu-erh tea and smothered kiln, geranium and velvet, gamey venison and treacle.

The smoke is integrated, the fires ember-like, the oak there but not oppressively so.

In short, a distillation of Islay and up alongside last year’s Jazz Festival bottling.

nuttiness.

The palate is where it shows its class: mature, slowly unfolding and
tarry Bohea Souchong tea element on the finish.

Its aroma and flavor is fresh, powerful, and medicinal, with notes of peat smoke, band-aids, tar, rich toffee, seaweed, and brine.

Clean and complex, showing a matured, somewhat restrained personality for Laphroaig: less medicinal, but more rounded.

Tar,
pencil shavings, anise, honeyed citrus, Spanish olive brine, and a hint of seaweed and white pepper on a bed of creamy vanilla, caramel, and light nougat.

Frustrated by a dearth of 20-plus year old distillery-bottled Laphroaigs?

Any sherried Laphroaig is welcome, and this does not disappoint.

Rich, resinous, medicinal, with underlying soft fruits, the smoke is all-pervading, but never dominant.

In other words, it isn’t just complex and balanced, but has that other dimension which elevates it in mind (and marks).

With water, there’s antiseptic cream mingling with oxidized fruits and nuts; think manzanilla pasada.

Style: Speyside single malt scotch Color: Honey gold Aroma: Subtly complex.

Again the honey and vanilla, which marries beautifully with the floral, herbal, subtly fruity notes.

There are light oaked notes to start, along with Oolong tea and very subtle smoke.

Classic, layered elegance with the cask offering support, not dominance.

The fruits have that slightly eerie quality of decay, while the palate is deep and juicy.

This is an exemplary, subtle, old whisky with delicate rancio (it’s a little cognac-like), which is given a boost of extra life with a small drop of water.

This limited release was matured in 60% refill sherry butts and 40% fresh bourbon barrels.

Initially sweet vanilla and ripe apple notes on the nose, giving way to chimney soot and dry peat.

The palate is very full and oily, with honey and vanilla merging with smoked haddock, charcuterie, and more overt peat.

Licorice, coffee beans, brine, chili, and peppery peat in the lengthy finish.

The nose is fascinating, as if dust is cohering into form, and fruity form at that.

When it emerges there’s baked banana, fruitcake, citrus peels, passion fruit, mango, mace flower, and nutmeg.

Even livelier with water, this is a superbly balanced, mature whisky.

Layered and long, it’s at its best neat; you need the intensity to amplify all the complexity.

Flavors are seamless, silky smooth, and rich, with notes of dried fruit and flowers, toffee, subtle spices, and delicate nuts.

A great after dinner malt, but universal enough to drink anytime.

Complex aromas of lush fruit (orange, lemon, red currant) and oak spices (cinnamon, clove, and licorice).

Great balance and depth of flavor, with complex fruit and wood spices similar to its aroma all wrapped in toffee and vanilla fudge.

Incredibly rich aromas of fruitcake, toffee, dates, roasted nuts, with a hint of cocoa powder and other spices.

On the palate, there are evolving notes of chewy toffee, ripe fruit (oranges, golden raisons), chocolate covered nuts, multigrain toast, and polished oak.

For about $20 more, you get a richer, much more complex whisky than the 10 year old, and it is more balanced than the 21 year old.

This 15 is drier than the 10, with lovely floral and spice notes (cinnamon, coriander, dried orange peel, lavender, rose), balanced by honey-laced complex fruit, and a dry, dark chocolate/orange marmalade finish 

Rising above the tat issued to celebrate the nuptials of Prince William and Kate Middleton was this extremely limited (1,000 bottles) release from The Macallan.

The nose is a mélange of rich fruits, marzipan, and beeswax/resin but it lifts with a drop of water to show apricot and heavy florals.

The palate isn’t overly grippy, with more orange peel, almond, and characteristic oiliness.

The latest annual limited release is classic and sure to please true aficionados of Macallan.

Stewed fruit and old leather on the nose, along with ripe cherries, gingersnaps, and black pepper, before orange marmalade notes develop.

Full-bodied, with fragrant sweet orange, milk chocolate-coated Turkish delight, and faint smoke.

The finish yields dark chocolate, cherry liqueur, and more pepper.

Notes of maple syrup on pancakes, roasted chestnuts, dates, pot still rum, burnished leather, maduro tobacco, and subtle Moroccan spice.

Older whiskies often show an exotic side to their personalities as they mellow out with age, especially if the wood influence doesn’t dominate.

Port Ellen’s make was usually filled into old casks to maximize its smoke when used young.

To us, therefore, it’s Islay’s most austere malt, yet the guys who worked there all talk of its sweetness.

Yes, there’s some wet slate and briny smoke, but it’s balanced by citrus, waxy fruits, and a central sweetness adding complexity.

It might have taken a long time to get here, but it was worth the wait.

Clean and fresh on the nose and palate, with complex bright fruit (peach, tangerine, golden delicious apple, honeydew melon, pineapple), spice (cinnamon, vanilla, subtle cocoa), appetizing brine, and beach pebbles, all on a bed of creamy, squeaky-clean honeyed malt.

A delicious, superbly balanced whisky that makes a great aperitif, but I could drink this any time.

Soft sherry notes, gentle toffee, golden raisin, green tea with honey, a peppering of spice (cinnamon, red and black licorice, candied ginger, hint of coconut macaroon and brine) and undertones of juicy oak (especially on the finish).

A lovely whisky, but not quite as dynamic as the “classic” Springbanks I’ve tasted from the 60s.

The nose is complex, with almonds, coconut, soft leather, tropical fruits, and stewed black tea.

The palate is rounded and rich, with more tropical fruits, sherry, caramel, pipe tobacco, wood smoke, and spicy tannins.

The finish is relatively long and creamy, with lingering smokiness.

This whisky starts out rich and lush-both in aroma and on the palate, with notes of fig cake, candied fruit, and sticky toffee pudding.

Citrus fruit (orange, lemon, tangerine)-a characteristic that emerges with many older whiskies-cuts through the heft and lushness of this whisky, contributing complexity, balance and drinkability.

The whisky continues to evolve, serving up notes of almonds, exotic spice, and polished leather on the finish.

An excellent example of what a mature, Speyside whisky should taste like.

Some of these old G&M Strathisla whiskies are quite lovely, and this is one of them.

It’s gently sherried, soothingly oily in texture, and complex, with notes of maple syrup, candied fruit, plum, roasted nuts, polished leather, and old oak, along with some damp earth, coffee bean, cinnamon, mint, and subtle, teasing kiln smoke.

It’s soft, rounded, and still holds up nicely for a 44 year old whisky.

If you like old, sherried Speysiders that aren’t overly oaked or sherried, you’ll like this one.

If only it was bottled at 43% or 46% (or at natural cask strength, if it was less than 43%).

It would give the whisky a little more backbone, and I might have bumped my rating up to the mid-90s.

I wish the owners of Strathisla would put out older expressions of their whisky, and here’s why.

Layers of sweetness (caramel in particular, but also honey and toffee) dovetail beautifully with an array of lush fruit (orange, apricot, golden raisin, fruit gumdrops).

All this is underpinned by subtle dried spice (cinnamon, cool mint, nutmeg) and teasing oak resin on the finish.

What’s most impressive here isn’t the laundry list of flavors (although they certainly are there), but rather the balance.

Comes across initially to me as reserved, perhaps even elegant for a Talisker.

Quite fruity (orange, tangerine, apricot), perhaps even floral, with a delicate pastry sweetness.

Then the more traditional Talisker notes kick in -- brine, seaweed, warming pepper -- repeated in the finish.

Talisker is a Special Releases favorite, and this bottling, the oldest ever marketed by the distillery, is actually the sixteenth.

Distillation was in 1977, and maturation has taken place in both American and European oak refill casks.

Dried fruits, vanilla, and malt merge with more chili and savory notes, plus newly-dug soil on the complex palate.

This 27 year old Talisker has been aged in refill American oak casks, and the nose offers brine, wood smoke, wet tarry rope, slightly medicinal, with the emergence of milk chocolate.

Big-bodied, with lots of peat accompanied by chili and smoked bacon, with sweeter notes of malt, fudge, and apple.

Long in the finish, with rock pools, bonfire ash, and sweet, tingling spice notes which carry to the very end.

The first Batch Strength expression of Tamdhu appeared in 2015 and was also matured entirely in sherry casks and not chill filtered.

Big, sweet sherry notes on the nose, with vanilla, sultanas, maraschino cherries, and Turkish Delight.

Rich and full-bodied, with oloroso sherry, milk chocolate, vanilla, dates, ripe cherries, sweet oak, and allspice.

A deep, mature Tomintoul that manages to retain the elegance and drinkability found in younger Tomintoul whiskies.

Roasted nuts, lush fruit, suggestions of cherry brandy and orange marmalade layered with rich fudge, toffee, and maple syrup.

Tomintoul can be a simple whisky at a younger age, but this one has matured into a beautifully complex dram.

Instead of oak dominating the nose, it's citrus in focus, with orange marmalade, candied orange, and even orange blossom.

On the palate this whisky is light and delicate, leading with the citrus notes from the nose.

This symphony of orange is followed with toffee, ginger, oak, and rancio in a combination that's well balanced and integrated.

Unique for its age, a definite treat for those who prefer lighter and more delicate whiskies.

Quite lively for its age, and the oak (surprisingly and happily) plays a supporting role rather than dominating.

Creamy and mouth-coating, with vanilla wafer, coconut cream pie, caramel, nougat, and bright fruit (sultana, apricot, tangerine, and pineapple in syrup).

This 44 year old was matured in oloroso casks before being bottled at cask strength in May 2016.

Mellow, sherried fruit on the nose, with rose hips, vanilla fudge, almond, honey, and slightly earthy spices.

The fragrant palate features an intense blast of ripe fruit, caramel, and sweet spices, while resin develops in time.

The medium-length finish offers plain chocolate, raisins, and prunes, with no negative tannins.

Finally, an unimpeachable counterpoint to the rally cry against no age statement whisky.

A rich, fruity, malty nose showcases dried apricot, dark chocolate, and salt.

On the palate, Little Bay explodes with flavor, combining malt with orange, chocolate, and blackberry.

Clove and oak spice join the party in the mid-palate, which shows superb balance and integration.

A long, slightly dry, citrusy spice finish caps off a stunning whisky.

Soothingly sweet, with toffee apple, vanilla-spiked sponge cake, nougat, butterscotch, sultana, and cut grass.

A dash of cinnamon and coconut throughout, with teasing, gentle polished oak on the finish.

A marriage of Dalmore, Fettercairn, and Ardbeg, and their personalities certainly show.

The whisky was blended and then aged for an additional 15 years -- very atypical.

The marriage of the three really works very well, combining a rich sweetness (honeyed malt, toffee) with spice, brine, vanilla, bitter chocolate, charcoal, espresso, tobacco, cigar ash, subtle marmalade, and firm -- but not dominating -- leafy peat smoke.

Delicious as it is, I can only imagine what it would be like bottled at 46% and not chill-filtered.

Aged 2.5 to 3 years on bourbon casks and then finished in sherry casks for 6 months.

Old-fashioned in many respects: oily texture, with rooty, layered peat smoke, coal tar, shoe polish, and hints of wet sheep as the foundation for a complex array of additional flavors: toffee apple, caramel fudge, blackberry jam, golden raisin, grist, bourbon barrel char, and licorice root.

Glen Moray is celebrating its 120th anniversary with Mastery, a vatting from 1978, 1988, 1994, 1999, and 2001.

Maturation—and finishing—has occurred in a mix of bourbon, sherry, madeira, and port casks.

Resinous sherry, smoky red wine, caramel, and vanilla on the nose.

Voluptuous on the palate, with sherry, succulent stewed fruit, soft toffee, and cocoa powder.

Rarely has a blend caused as much excitement as this one, but with good reason.

This is also known as the Shackleton whisky, and is a recreation of the whisky abandoned in the Antarctic by explorer Ernest Shackleton more than 100 years ago.

The taste is full and citrusy, with peat and pepper in attendance.

Beautifully balanced and outstanding, but there are just 50,000 bottles, so snap it up.

Sandy Hyslop has excelled at solely blending European oak sherry cask whiskies here.

A dry, spicy nose to relish: rum-raisin ice cream, wafer biscuits, fennel seeds, roasted coriander, seasoned oak, and dense fruitcake.

After the Cinnamon Toast Crunch and toffee sweetness disrobe, a riot of spices cavorts across the tastebuds, bedding down to a flavor of spiced, chocolate-covered toffee bars.

This Blue Hanger has sherry and fruit on the nose, but it's all reined in.

Then the palate is big, rich, complex, and fruity, and late oakiness from some 30 year-plus malt in the mix brings the perfect finale.

After six releases in a decade, there have been three just this year.

There are dried fruits and dusty bookshelves on the nose, and tropical fruits with water.

On the palate it's a big, peaty, rich whisky with licorice and more of the pineapple, kiwifruit, and guava.

You get the whole fairground in the finale, with candy, fruit, and smoke.

It’s the intensity of flavor that just grabbed me by the lapels and spun me round.

It harbors intense tangelo juiciness; that unparalleled concentration of deep citrus skillfully mingled with dark vanilla, dried apricots, and gentle smoke.

This goes the distance, delivering wave after delicious wave: peach juice, mandarin, pineapple cubes, and lemon zest.

A firm, unctuous finish shows a little charred wood and dark sugar cloaked in fine smoke.

The original Big Peat was a mix of smoky Islay malts and was already up there with the very best competition in the category, even though many of the others were bottled at cask strength.

Now it’s back to play in the big boys' pool with a killer cask strength whisky of its own.

This is to whisky what AC/DC is to heavy rock: old school, predictable, but great and exactly what fans want.

Marginally less aggressive than in 2014, this Big Peat is more rounded and exhibits greater finesse.

The invasive smoke still infiltrates the skull and clasps your brain tightly.

A sweet smoke of smoldering hillside wildfire extinguished by rubber beaters, balanced by meadow flowers, tree blossom, and honey.

Sticky lemons smeared in thick honey, cracked black pepper, and a fabulous, almost gelatinous texture, it builds solidly in peaty intensity.

A purity and fragility rarely encountered, with aromas as fleeting as footprints on wet sand: marshmallow, meringue, honey, and rose petals.

A delicacy to the structure brings banana, caramel, spun sugar, and orange peel.

The oak spices build slowly, making the lips throb from the inside.

It’s an elaborate maze of ethereal suggestion and an apparition of calm beauty.

It atrophies reluctantly, leaving tangy peels and lengthy sweetness anchored by spicy base notes.

A single cask from a refill hoggie, this bursts with vanilla fudge, cracked peppercorn, wood shavings, and apple strudel.

Incredibly fruity, with mouth-watering gummy bears, tangy orange, and dried pineapple, evolving from sweet fruits through to banana chews.

Diluting down from its considerable cask strength only pumps up the juiciness.

From whisky connoisseur David Stirk's Exclusive Malts Single Cask Cask Strength range, this is a blend made with 80% malt, and it shows.

It's also a ‘traffic light’ whisky, with the sort of whisky rancio associated with the oldest whiskies up front, peaches and cream and pureed fruit in the center, and changing to oaky spiciness late on.

Top notes of hay, honey, and caramel over a spicy core pulsating with pepper, rye, spiced Quaker Oats, and freshly planed wood.

An epic battle ensues: round after round of citrus vs. spice, both growing stronger as they slug it out; jabs of sweetness meet a chastisingly nippy right hook, until, eventually exhausted, both protagonists drop their guard.

Dry crackling spice and sugared almonds run through a mighty long finish.

Chocolate-covered raisins scoffed on a heathery moor, leather riding tack, intense plain chocolate, malt loaf, mixed nuts, Medjool dates, and traces of wood ash.

A gorgeous, unctuous mouthfeel with flavors spun around bright sparks of orange, dark toffee, and rich maltiness, melding to black cherry, stewed fruits, licorice, and charred oak.

Named for the leather golf balls packed with goose feathers used in the early 19th century.

The nose is bathed in aromas of lime, bergamot, lychee, and fresh pineapple cores.

This is delicate, refined, and complex, with touches of fragrant spices and a calming influence of oak.

A web of citrus strands, barley sugar, and toffee is shot through by wood spices and surpassed by a delicious butterscotch flavor that continues into the finish.

  Effortless, relaxed, and brilliant whisky, and quite frankly, I’m not sure you could find better 30 year old whisky at this price.

This is an assured release, one not trying to be anything other than beautiful old grain whisky.

Caramel, aged oak, rose petals, and dried heather twigs, with touches of sweetness.

The palate has a lovely substantial feel to it, the strength quite apparent, with soft sweet toffees, fleeting citrus and grapefruit, then aniseed tugging at your tongue.

The finish is a gum-numbing, sweet decay of fading oaky memories.

It even pours thickly, as the aromas spill out of the glass: rich stewed apple, dry oak, a passing digestif trolley wobbling with dark sticky bottles, and currants on the tummy of a gingerbread man.

There is a rum-like quality to the thick texture that lands squarely on the palate, bursting out with sweet apple and brown sugar.

It hardly loses its grip after swallowing, dissipating almost imperceptibly against the approaching oak flavors.

Bladnoch master distiller Ian MacMillan’s blend is worth seeking out for its appealing freshness; green apple, caramel, shaved oak, toasted whole-grain bread, warm pastries, and dried peels.

The palate is awash with bright flavors of honey, walnut, barley sugar, gingerbread in custard, orange taffy candy, and a little spice.

The conclusion has sweet honey, gingerbread crumbs, and a citrus intensity.

Deliciously creamy, sweet, toasty profile with coconut cream, toasted marshmallow, toffee pudding, and honeyed vanilla.

Gentle spice notes (especially clove) and hints of fruit dance on the palate.

A marriage of two casks of Caol Ila (25 and 29 years old) and one cask of Imperial (14 years old).

Penetratingly smoky, visceral, rooty, and even mean-tempered at times, ultimately being soothed by creamy vanilla and thick malt.

It’s peppered with licorice stick, dark chocolate, campfire charcoal, subtle olive brine, and teasing berried fruit.

Not the pimply youth you might be mistakenly expecting, this tongue-in-cheek release is impishly contemptuous of the regulations challenged by Glaser during the transparency debate.

Lemon bonbon, heavy vanilla scents, beeswax boot polish, and white chocolate are well integrated with peat.

The exotic fruits and citrus zest tumbling with golden syrup are knocked sideways by clove and pepper.

The tastiest of their Signature range, this boasts a dry oak and spice nose with fudge, rye bread, and banana interwoven with French oak influences of nutmeg, cinnamon, and ground ginger.

As the gentle orange, malt, pear, and apple settle down, little spicy explosions of ginger and pepper detonate, leaving an aftermath of spiced malt, coffee cake, milk chocolate, and cocoa.

After a series of esoteric and expensive releases, Compass Box has decided to bring it all back to the people with a blend — and how!

The journey sets out as we might expect; all sweet vanilla ice cream, stewed pear tart, and peach melba, but then a wave of spice and white pepper provides an unexpected but delightful twist.

Smoke begins Jim Beveridge’s public replication of the annual Directors Blend concept, built around Johnnie Walker’s signature characteristics.

Peat smoke harks back to Islay, but there’s wood smoke, tobacco leaf, and malt, with a salty richness behind it.

Polished, with great structure; red apple, raspberry, and sweet linctus wrap up with a long, smoky finish of cigar stub and peat stores.

This is much more muscular than the regular, un-haunted Blue Label.

It delivers a multitude of flavors—butter toffee, sweet smoke, citrus peel, and dry spices—tantalizingly peeling off layer after layer, building a slow crescendo to a peak of spices and bitter citrus.

Mouth drawing with caramel, apple, pear, and sherbet, a mid-palate of zesty orange and baking spices before topping out with bitter peels, grapefruit, smoke, and sour hard candy.

Available for several years, but now finally making its debut in the U.S.

The higher-end Dewar’s expressions (Dewar’s 12 year old and Dewar’s Signature) are very good blends.

The malt proportion is rich and creamy; the grain whisky is crisp and well-integrated.

Antique gold color, with notes of butterscotch, vanilla wafer, strawberry rhubarb pie, and citrus drizzled with honey.

Lovely floral notes in the aroma, along with a pleasing, dried spice finish.

This Pedro Ximénez-finished blend is the oldest Dewar’s expression available.

It offers a deliciously deep nose of chocolate-dipped biscuits, dried fruits, and orange peel.

The palate includes indulgent rewards of berry fruit, chocolate praline, raspberry, cherry, dried cranberry, and hazelnut.

It remains succulent throughout, the sherry fruit keeping the upper hand over the chocolate and batting away the occasional coffee note.

This archetypal midnight dram enthralls with aromas of cedar wood humidor, blossom honey, hazelnut, vanilla pod, treacle cake, and maple syrup.

It’s less weighty than some whiskies at this age, with a balanced show of cinnamon, cocoa, berry fruits, dried grapefruit, hard peel, wood spices, dark toffee, and oak.

A finish of dark vanilla, oak, spice, and leather make for a fine digestif.

There was an Aberlour 18 on the market for a spell several years ago, aged in sherry casks, that I really enjoyed.

There are big shoes to fill, and this whisky fills them quite nicely.

Once again, the sherry is prominent throughout, with its lush fruit, velvety texture, and sweet demeanor.

But it’s not cloying or sappy — the sherry blends in nicely with the rest of the flavors.

Ripe orange, apricot preserve, peach cobbler, chocolate-covered caramel, and toffee, with a sprinkling of cinnamon and cocoa.

all pitch, furs, and gun oil.

This is an earthy, in-your-face Ardbeg with a hint of
box-fresh sneakers indicating some youthfulness.

The mouth is thick and chewy:
years.

Pale and slightly flinty to start, with touches of Caol lla-style salt-washed rocks, but here there’s sweetness, while the smoke gives it a mezcal-like air; pears and burning wood (hot brake pads), minerality, then green olive and a light medicinal note.

The palate is rounded, with real olive oil, peppery sweetness, soot, and white chocolate.

Apparently this is the final Supernova release and the Ardbeg team has ensured it goes out with all guns blazing.

Although it seems calm initially—there’s a minty and sweet spicy element to the fore—the smoke begins to push through in the guise of creosote, then sootiness which, in turn, mingles with seaweed aromas.

The peat dominates the palate but there is sufficient oiliness to round it out and add layers of smoked fish, and dried grasses.

This is the bigger, spicier, and more complex of the pair (see below).

A prickly start leads to heavy peat smoke, pink and Szechuan peppercorns, vanilla, dark chocolate, angelica, then seaweed.

The palate is oily, with a detonation of gunpowdery peat, licorice, smoked eel, and a feral edge that adds grunt.

This 23 year old expression was released for the Ardbeg Committee.

Sweet asphalt, bonfire smoke, lemon sponge drizzled in iodine, and background cinnamon on the nose.

Succulent, sherried, and chocolate-coated orchard fruits on the oily palate, with vanilla and sweet peat.

The peat dries slowly in the finish, with developing licorice, kippers, and peppery oak

The 2018 Ardbeg Day limited-edition bottling includes a proportion of spirit matured in red wine casks which have been heavily charred, leaving deep grooves in the surface of the oak.

Fragrant soft smoke, warm leather, and salty red berries on the nose; background charcuterie.

The palate offers red berry fruits, vanilla, dense peat smoke, brine, and asphalt.

I feel this is by far the best whisky in the standard Auchentoshan portfolio, and it is one of the best Auchentoshans ever released.

It’s delicious, nicely balanced, and with lovely depth for a Lowland whisky.

Baked muffins, creamy vanilla, honey, and caramel blend nicely with delicate fruit notes (lemon, red current, strawberries).

Similar to the 10 year old reviewed below, but with greater depth and a drier finish.

The latest Balblair release is a 1995 vintage expression, exclusive to global travel retail outlets.

Matured in second-fill bourbon casks, Balblair 1995 is non-chill filtered and naturally colored.

Initially very fruity on the nose, with peaches and carnations, icing sugar on bonbons, then a faint sprinkling of black pepper.

Stewed fruits on the early palate, full and confident, with developing spices and brittle toffee.

Relatively lengthy in the finish, with dark chocolate and soft oak.

The flavors are clean, well defined, confident, and beautifully balanced.

Soft, creamy vanilla, honeycomb, bright fruit (orange, nectarine, lemon peel, hints of pineapple), with emerging dried vanilla, coconut, oak resin, and subtle anise.

It doesn’t have the depth that the classic older Balvenies have shown in the past, but what it does have, it has in spades.

This newbie from Balvenie is the worldwide replacement for the market-specific Tun 1401.

A larger volume vat (8,000 liters) is now being filled with an equally eclectic mix of casks (42 casks ranging from 1970 to 1992).

Deep amber; this has substance but being Balvenie, it’s gentle: orange blossom/Manuka honey edged with spice, marmalade, scented woods, and a little frangipane.

The palate shows a supple, rippling power with some apricot, cinnamon, and root ginger.

This is the ultimate PortWood expression from Balvenie and has been finished in 30 year old port pipes.

A more vibrant and textured Travel Retail variant is non-chill filtered and bottled at 47.6%.

Soft, red grape notes, vanilla, and milk chocolate on the nutty nose.

Rich plum flavors in the mouth, dark berries covered in cream, and spicy honey.

The third batch in this series comprises twelve sherry butts distilled between 1989 and 1992, eleven American oak hogsheads from 1989, and eight refill American oak butts distilled in 1992 and 1993.

Rich sherry, honey, and malt notes on the nose, with figs and citrus peel.

Silky on the palate, with Jaffa oranges, raisins, ginger, and plain chocolate.

Sweet and sherried, with plenty of sugar and toffee, moving into plums and thick chestnut honey.

Give it time, however, and a haunting note of dried mango and guava emerges, followed by amontillado-style nuttiness and then beeswax polish.

The palate may seem initially grippy, but there’s such a massing of fruits that it copes well.

This vintage bottling was distilled during the 1970s and spent 41 years in a refill bourbon hogshead (#3434).

The palate is rich and full, with Jaffa orange, stewed apples, cocoa, and pipe tobacco.

This 39 year old was matured in a single refill American hogshead.

Orange Jujubes on the early nose, with vanilla, honey, and linseed.

Big, sweet, soft fruit notes on the palate, with pipe tobacco and a hint of background peat smoke.

Aniseed and ginger develop, along with the merest hint of old oak in the persistently fruity finish.

Aromas of rich sherry, ripe fruit, toffee, molasses, peat smoke, damp oak, and nuts.

Its flavors start out rich and sweet, with sherried fruit, toffee, and dark chocolate.

It then becomes drier with notes of peat, smoked nuts, seaweed and brine, ultimately finishing with notes of spice, bitter chocolate, and smoky smoldering embers.

This is a new bottling of Bowmore 25 year old and an improved one at that.

This replaces the 17 year old in the standard Bowmore portfolio.

This one is more sherried than the 17 year old, and it wears the sherry well.

Indeed, I feel that the 17 year old displays the true essence of Bowmore.

But this 18 year old integrates the sherry notes with the Bowmore signature to create a richly flavored Islay whisky experience.

Thick toffee, ripe fruit, and tar-tinged smoke are accentuated by dark chocolate, cocoa powder, burnt raisin, dates, and sea salt.

A very clean, elegant Bowmore with a naked beauty that shows its Islay roots.

You’ll find fresh brine and seaweed on a bed of honeyed malt and soft vanilla cream.

Subtle berries, citrus, and melon fruit add a complex fruit dimension.

This is the first of four bottlings in the Vault Edition series and was matured in bourbon barrels in the distillery’s famous No.1 Vaults.

Medium-bodied on the palate, with peaches, vanilla, salt, and slightly bitter orange.

Lingering orange notes in the finish, with cocoa powder and lots of salt.

Quite lively for 25 years, with layers of bright fruit (lemon, nectarine, grapefruit, pineapple) on a bed of vanilla and honey.

There’s a peppering of dried spice, smoldering ember, and beach pebbles.

Brora enthusiasts will not be disappointed, but the prices of the whisky from this shuttered distillery are creeping up.

As ever, the composition of Black Art is a closely guarded secret, and this is distiller Adam Hannett’s first such assembly.

Rich aromas of fig, succulent autumn berries, sherry, cream, and malt feature on the complex, floral nose.

Viscous on the palate, which opens dry, with developing berry fruits and spicy oak, plus dried fruits and candied peel.

This expression was distilled in December 1986 and filled into seven oloroso sherry butts.

In 2012 the whisky was transferred to Pedro Ximénez butts for finishing.

Very sweet fruit notes on the palate, almost sugary, with background rich sherry, dates, and treacle.

Long and warming in the finish, with a wisp of smoke and fruit spices.

A very mature whisky with evolutions of flavors-toffee, caramel, fudge, nuts, fruitcake, and a long finish that dries out very nicely.

Older expressions of Bunnahabhain are often quite delicious, and this one is no exception.

The dryness of the oak balances perfectly with the sweeter toffee notes of the whisky, and the extra age imparts considerable depth.

than oak here, a smoke like the aroma of a fire clinging to a tweed jacket.

A
cream, but always mixed with seashore breezes.

This is Caol Ila in deep and
bold mood with green fig, banana, and a sweet center.

Clearly Caol Ila; it’s the way that the oily smokiness seems to lean into the nose, bearing with it wet oilskins, a barely smoldering wood fire, light seashore elements (drying crab shells), and very pure fruit, which then opens to classic smoked ham aromas.

The smokiness is more assertive than normal on the tongue, with olive oil, deep fruits, and a pine-scented juniper note.

There’s something enigmatic and highly attractive about this distillery and its deceased brother, Brora.

Perhaps it’s the unpredictability; there are plenty of independent releases of varied and often questionable quality, and you’re never quite sure what’s going to turn up.

Even iconic expressions such as the 30 year olds can vary from quite sublime to appalling and sulfury when in the wrong hands.

When the malts from both distilleries are good, though — and the official bottlings tend to be — they’re very, very good.

This Clynelish is a delightful surprise from the beginning, its nose some way removed from the official 14 year old, and more in common with some recent Diageo-release Broras, mixing soft maritime notes with squiggly peat and some fruit notes.

The palate is complex and attractive, with savory peat, sweet pineapple, salt, light fish, drizzled lemon, pepper, chili, and cardamom.

It all makes for a big, complex, evolving (and grown up) whisky — and great value for the price tag.

The question is how this stacks up against the Friends of the Classic Malts bottling, one of my 2014 highlights.

This shows mature distillery character with that discreet meaty undertow bedding down exuberant top notes: icing sugar on rhum baba, preserved lime, crystallized fruits, honey, pecan, fig, and scented woods.

Typical of Cragganmore in its constantly shape-shifting character.

The palate is concentrated orchard fruits, dried fruits, light spice, chestnut puree, and a little smoke.

Aged in bourbon barrels for 11 years, and then aged an additional 6 years in port pipes, creating a rich, voluptuous, robust Dalmore expression.

Notes of toffee, molasses, caramelized nuts, pancake batter, fig cake, and chocolate-covered citrus.

Staff members at Dalmore selected this distillery-exclusive bottling, which has been drawn from American white oak cask number 446, and bottled at cask strength.

Fragrant, with old leather and over-ripe oranges when water is added.

Warm leather, apricots, orange marmalade, cocoa powder, and developing spice on the palate.

Initially filled into an ex-bourbon cask, then transferred into a Gonzales Byass oloroso ‘Matusalem’ sherry butt in 2005 for four years, before a final two years in a freshly-emptied bourbon barrel.

The nose is initially floral, with overripe Seville oranges, figs, ginger, and cocoa powder.

Peaches and almonds on the palate, before dark fruits and salted nuts appear.

Dalmore released 8,000 bottles of its latest 21 year old, initially matured 10 years in American oak barrels before an 11 year period of secondary maturation in first-fill Matusalem oloroso sherry butts from Gonzalez Byass.

Intense aromas of Jaffa orange, marzipan, and ginger, plus soft oak.

Smooth and well-rounded on the palate, with milky coffee, orange marmalade, cinnamon, and developing spicy dark chocolate.

The lengthy finish is spicy, with licorice, a hint of citrus, and sweet oak.

Dalmore launched a trio of vintages finished in tawny port pipes.

The pick of the bunch is the oldest, distilled in 1996, which displays a confident, rich nose of raisins, mildly smoky prunes, vanilla, and blood orange.

Full-bodied in the mouth, with red berry fruits, ginger, white pepper, and spicy oak.

Medium-length in the finish, with coffee-soaked oak, figs, and damsons at the close.

Glen Grant’s new(ish) owner Campari is putting its money where its mouth is.

Investment in plant, wood, and an impressive visitor center is slowly being backed up with a series of new releases.

This venerable example comes from Gordon & MacPhail’s stocks, but is an official bottling due out in time for Christmas.

This is GG in relaxed, avuncular mode: subtle woods, amber, Oolong tea, anise.

The palate is old apple, fresh plum, cream, and ginger spiciness.

£255(Available at the distillery, in France, and Travel Retail in Asia only.)

Maturation took place in refill bourbon casks before a final 12-month period in first-fill bourbon casks.

Lemon, ginger, pine resin, and a hint of sea salt on the nose, then banoffee pie develops.

Luscious on the palate, with subtle spice, a touch of ashy smoke, and principally big orchard fruit notes.

Drying in the lengthy finish, with a wisp of smoke, brine, and peppery oak.

New for 2017, this was matured for 17 years in bourbon casks before being finished in oloroso sherry casks for 1 year.

The nose is fragrant, with prunes, oranges, vanilla, and faint wood polish.

Silky palate delivery, with sweet sherry, honey, and dark chocolate-coated orange fondant creams, then a note of angelica.

The finish offers spicy plain chocolate and a suggestion of sea salt.

Nutty on the nose, with a whiff of new leather and tropical fruit, plus the aroma of unsmoked cigars.

Complex on the full palate, with almonds, citrus fruit, ginger, plain chocolate, a slight herbal note, and sweet oak.

The finish is long and spicy, with black pepper and increasing oak.

Confident plum, prune, and raisin notes on the early nose, with developing ripe cherries, sherried fudge, and resin.

Viscous in the mouth—very sweet—with developing tingling spices, then darker fruit notes emerge, with licorice and plain chocolate.

The finish is long, with enduring dark chocolate and fruity spice.

The oldest of the fifteen expressions in Batch 16 of GlenDronach’s single cask release program, this cask-strength offering has been matured for 26 years in a Pedro Ximénez sherry puncheon.

The nose yields fresh-from-the-oven Christmas cake, cherries, nutmeg, and sweet leather.

Viscous on the palate, with dark sherry, raisins, plain chocolate, tangy orange, and caramel.

Dark, chestnut-copper color suggests a sherry cask, and one nosing confirms it.

A very multi-faceted whisky-the sherry is quite profound, but there’s a lot going on in addition to the sherry.

Deep, succulent, and chewy on the palate, with fig cake, raisins, old rum, tobacco, pencil shavings, and almond fudge.

First things first — congratulations to the Grants of Glenfarclas on attaining their 175th anniversary.

To celebrate, they have vatted together a cask from 1952 with one each from the following five decades — and released it at an exceptionally reasonable price!

The nose has a lift of struck match immediately followed by cedar, pomegranate, blackberry jam, and Seville orange.

There’s a thick caramel toffee sweetness to the palate alongside the classic ’Farclas depth where dried, but sweet, fruits repose.

Another first fill sherry butt, giving its typical reddish-brown hue.

This runs more into the clove, cassia, and allspice area than just dried fruit.

While maturity is obvious, and there’s even a hint of dunnage/leatheriness, it is the concentrated fruit sweetness that surprises here.

The distillery has fought back against the cask, and while still crepuscular in nature, there is a rich, concentrated, and mellow glow at its heart.

Only 60 bottles have been released from this 60 year old first-fill sherry cask.

Amazingly, the nose is not dominated by wood, but is mature and concentrated with the aroma of rain-moistened tweed, tropical fruit, blonde tobacco, cedar, and chanterelle mushroom.

This elegantly faded, sepia-tinted impression continues on the tongue: fine-boned, mossy, clean, and slowly drying.

A classic example of oxidation, not woodiness, allowing
freshness to be retained.

Gently sweet and fruity, with golden raisin, candy apple, and red raspberry jam.

There’s delicate pineapple, dried cherry, coconut, and vanilla too, with a polished oak finish.

Not as bold and spicy as last year’s 1976 vintage (which I had a hand in selecting but, ironically, don’t like as much).

This new vintage approaches the caliber of the 1973 Vintage release from two years ago which I still think is the best one in recent years.

Glenfiddich’s Experimental Series continues with this expression, finished for up to 6 months in ice wine casks sourced from Peller Estates winery in Ontario, Canada.

Concentrated aromas of canned peaches in syrup, vanilla, and clotted cream.

Silky on the palate, with a carryover of peaches from the nose and succulent blood oranges.

The finish is medium in length, slowly drying, but fruity to the end.

The first release from the new owners of Glenglassaugh distillery is obviously intended as a showpiece expression, and it does not disappoint.

Spicy fruits, figs, brittle toffee, sherry, and ginger on the mellow yet robust palate.

The finish is medium in length, with allspice and old oak, plus a wisp of tarry smoke.

Incredibly complex, subtle aromas of vanilla, honey, marshmallow, tropical fruit (pineapple, peaches, coconut), floral notes and a hint of almonds.

On the palate, the flavors are complex and exhibit the same notes as the aroma, starting out gently sweet, but gradually becoming fruity and eventually drying out on the finish.

Richly textured with mouth-coating malt that is balanced by an array of lively fruit (fresh peach, nectarine, tangerine, pears in honey, and delicately caramelized pineapple).

Creamy caramel, crème brûlée, anise, and subtle toasted marshmallow add complexity, as does its gently spicy, pleasingly dry finish.

Two years older than the standard 16 year old Nadurra (which I like for its vibrancy and freshness).

This new Triumph 1991 is richer and more textured, with more caramelized sugars, riper barley, and greater fruit impact.

A vatting of three first-fill American oak casks, for me this is the most lifted and effusive of the ongoing Cellar Collection range.

The nose is full of aromas of anise, blackcurrant leaf, honeysuckle, jasmine, frangipani flowers, and a subtle almond sweetness.

The palate continues in similar vein with more spice and just sufficient oak to add distinct structure and a coconut character.

Glenmorangie is a lighter-style spirit and, in the past, some of the older vintage expressions were heavy-handed on the wood.

The oak aging is obvious on the nose, but this whisky manages to walk the thin line between enjoying the maturity and depth of an older whisky without too much oak influence.

This one is finished in sun-baked casks which previously contained Malmsey Madeira.

A predominantly sweet and fruity whisky, with caramel, honeyed almonds, peaches in syrup, and orange scone.

It dances on the palate with orange, tangerine, and lemon gum drops, balanced by vanilla, light caramel, hint of anise, and delicate oak.

More polished and sophisticated than the comparably sweet and lush Lagavulin 21 year old also reviewed here.

The pedro ximinez cask finish certainly gives as much as it takes away when compared to the benchmark 16 year old.

An array of complex ripe fruit, interwoven with notes of pot still rum, toffee, tar, seaweed, and brine on the finish.

It seems logical to marry this big, smoky Islay whisky with an equally big, sweet, fruity sherry.

You want and expect rich and peaty malt from Lagavulin and you get it here in droves, though not in the most obvious way.

This version is somewhere between the cask strength 12 year old and the Distiller’s Edition, rather than the standard 16 year old, but it’s an absolute peach and a treat for lovers of this distillery.

The nose is constrained and shy at first, with lychee and kiwi fruit offering a sweet and gentle carpet to coastal peaty notes.

The palate is big, rich, full, and peppered, with sharp apple and citrus fruits.

It benefits from water, too, as there’s a delightful swell of fruit, chili, peat, and soft licorice.

As with all great Lagavulins, the tarry peatiness lingers longest in the finish.

Wonderfully complex, and nicely balanced aroma and flavor of vanilla sweetness, tarry rope, oak, toffee, seaweed, and brine.

Medium to full in body, and creamy in texture, with a finish that doesn't quit.

The whisky begins sweet and creamy, with notes of vanilla, honey, and ripe malt (reminiscent of a malting floor).

Then the Laphroaig signature peat smoke, seaweed, tar, and medicinal notes emerge.

Bottling at 48% and without chill-filtering keeps the whisky from being dulled down.

This is a soft — almost elegant — Laphroaig (if that’s not an oxymoron).

Very clean, with honeyed malt, ripe barley, brine, seaweed, and peat smoke, with just a teasing of the medicinal, band-aid notes that Laphroaig is known for.

The owner-bottled 18 year old, which I rated a 90, is darker and drier, with more oak on the finish.

The oldest house bottling of Longmorn to date is non-chill filtered and lavishly presented in a purple casket, which probably accounts for a chunk of the purchase price.

The nose is classic Longmorn: soft and sweet, majoring in honey, hazelnuts, caramel, and milk chocolate, while the creamy palate features orchard fruits, ginger, and allspice.

The finish is lengthy and softly spiced, with honey, orange, and sweet oak.

Macallan’s 18 year old expression is, for me, the highlight of its regular sherried range.

The nose is rich and heavily fruited: fruit cake, mulberry, a little moist gingerbread, the bloody depths of molasses.

On the palate, dried fruits — more figgy than raisined — while the natural oiliness in the spirit balances the boisterous tannins from the European oak.

A singed note on the finish (an extension of the molasses?) completes the picture.

Lots of highly-polished oak as we move out of the woods and into a silent country estate.

Highly concentrated, but the fruits push their way through only lightly-resisting tannins.

There’s a hint of smoke and Seville orange bitterness on the finish.

With worm tubs and a fiendishly complex partial-triple distillation, Mortlach has adhered to an old style of making whisky — and older, richer, darker flavors.

The nose is meaty (think gravy/beef stock) with fig, raisin, and molasses.

In the mouth it’s concentrated, with good grip and a savory sweetness.

Surprisingly fresh - sanguine even - for its age, and appetizingly aromatic.

Fairly light and approachable in body, but always inspiring and pithy.

Notes of fresh, seabreeze brine, teasing exotic spices, and tangerine are softened by gently creamy malt notes and hints of coconut and almond.

The oldest bottling of Old Pulteney to date has been matured in American bourbon and Spanish sherry casks, and was personally bottled by distillery manager Malcolm Waring.

The nose of this highly accomplished veteran is fragrant and waxy, with cooking apples, milk chocolate orange, Christmas spices, vanilla, and fudge.

Initially, the substantial palate offers spicy fresh fruits, seasoned timber, then a hint of brine, with sultanas and plain chocolate.

Full aroma of peat smoke, with interwoven notes of seaweed, burning leaves, leather, and fudge.

It begins somewhat sweet up front with notes of vanilla and toffee, followed by a peat smoke explosion.

Lingering notes of seaweed, oak, salt and pepper add complexity.

Finally, the whisky becomes slightly sweet again, with lingering smoke.

Aged in a bourbon hogshead, allowing the distillery character to shine through.

Fresh, lively and inviting (especially for its age), with a complex array of tropical and summer fruit, peppered with brine, vanilla, and a hint of baker’s chocolate.

The first of five annual releases of Local Barley from Springbank.

The barley in question was grown at Low Machrimore Farm in the south of the Kintyre peninsula and was distilled in September 1999.

Barley, damp earth, sea salt, and citrus fruits on the lightly peated nose.

The buttery palate yields spicy peat, orchard fruits, and more earthiness, closing with smoky lemon.

Fresh and lively for its age, with appetizing saltiness, citrus fruit (lemon, line and orange marmalade), and subtly complex dried spices.

A fat, malty foundation complements these seasonings beautifully mid-palate, with the salt and dried spices emerging again on the finish.

The soft fruit theme continues in this vatting of whiskies from, you guessed it, five decades of the distillery’s life.

This has a heavy, heady, honey element alongside apple blossom and then peach and apricot pulp.

Significantly darker than the rest, well-balanced, and palate-coating.

Creamier too, with subtle, yet exotic notes of tropical fruit and exotic spices.

There is a point at which ultra-aged spirits -- whether they are whisky, rum, tequila, or brandy -- find a common ground.

What they lose in identity, they gain in intrigue and layers of subtle complexity (if properly matured).

This bottling is from the oldest cask owned by Tullibardine distillery, a sherry quarter cask (#341).

An initial whiff of Cointreau on the nose, then vanilla develops, with marzipan, white pepper, linseed, and old hessian.

A silky mouthfeel, with drier sherry, black currants, dark spices, and plain chocolate.

Extraordinarily lingering, with orange wine gums and spicy licorice.

Despite 50 years of maturation in a relatively small sherry cask, a whisky of great depth and quality has emerged.

Drier, less toffee and fruit, more dried spice and oak when compared to the standard Oban 14 year old.

  A beautiful combination of rich, nutty toffee balanced by polished oak, salt, pepper, seaweed, distant smoke, and dried fruit.

  An improvement on what is already the biggest-selling Diageo single malt scotch in the U.S.  Very exciting and dynamic.

  (7,700 bottles available only in the U.S. and at the Oban distillery).

Lush, with glazed citrus, caramelized peach, chewy toffee, roasted nuts, and subtle pine needles.

The sherry is a driving force throughout this whisky, but it’s obviously from a very clean, polished European oak cask.

Originally blended, then recasked into fresh bourbon wood three decades ago, the nose of ripened peaches, cooked pear, pecan nuts, menthol, clove, and vanilla make for a compelling combination.

A surprising lift of red summer fruits as this bright whisky sashays around the mouth, the complexity measured out in installments; plum sauce, toasted oak, coffee bean, gingersnaps, clove, licorice, and hints of savory juices.

It dances on and on with the whirling wood spices in no hurry whatsoever.

In my opinion Cutty Sark 25 year old is one of the great blends, so a new version was always going to be a big ask.

This one comes with a lot of packaging, so is it a victory for style over substance?

This is all about big flavors; burnt orange, juicy raisin, and dark chocolate; rich oak and exotic spice.

But at that price—and bearing in mind it's a limited edition—are you going to open it?

A new line of Islay single malts from Specialty Drinks, an extension of The Whisky Exchange.

(The bottle doesn’t tell you which distillery this whisky came from, but if you look at a map of Islay you can probably figure it out.)

I like this expression better than the more expensive 25 year old.

There’s impeccable balance and more vibrancy in this 17 year old, with seaweed, smoked Spanish olive, coal soot, pencil shavings, citrus, and anise, along with subtle kipper and picked ginger.

Though still young, here’s a distillery that has established its own character.

In this expression you get full integration between oak and distillery, a sparkling mix of seashell and the freshness of seaweed, touched with churned butter, driftwood, and fresh-kilned peat.

On the tongue, there’s samphire, peat, sweet barley, and an herbal kick.

Matured in a combination of oloroso sherry butts filled in 2008, and bourbon barrels filled in 2008 and 2009.

The nose is initially flinty, with lemongrass, fabric Band-Aids, fudge, and vanilla.

Supple and sweet on the palate, with developing nutmeg and white pepper.

Peppery in the finish, with plain chocolate and aromatic peat smoke.

Layered fruit (bright orchard fruit, honeyed melon, kiwi, pineapple), polished oak, and hay, subtly spiced with vanilla bean, milk chocolate, evergreen, and cotton candy.

As you raise the glass to your nose, this has refreshment written all over it.

The fragrance of an early morning visit to a florist, zesty orange notes, honey, peach pits, a hint of salt, and the faintest trace of smoke.

It’s silky smooth, glistening with honey, a firm edge of orange, vanilla tablet, barley sugar, powdered ginger, all elevated by the grains supporting the Scapa.

A smooth, feather-light finish of sparkling light spices and creaminess.

Pear drops, stewed apple, strawberry jam, fragrant rhubarb stems, and vanilla pods.

Neat, there’s a tacky sweetness of hard candy, with bitter skins of damson and green plum, sloes, and custard creams.

Counteract this with water to bring out acetone, cake mix, and sweet bourbon notes of vanilla and creamed coconut.

Dry oak and dark vanilla complete one of the longest finishes I’ve savored this year.

There is a beautiful interplay between the lemon and sharp lime set against the bracing coastal nature of this dram.

Gentle vanilla, honey, lemon zest, and gooseberry compote waft from the glass.

Vanilla frosting, coconut macaroon bars, malt drinks, peach, lemon, and an undercurrent of pepper.

Creamy chocolate once the spice subsides, it ends with a fantastically chewy mouthfeel.

This dark, chestnut liquid exudes wafts of rose hip, dense fruitcake, sliced fig, cherry, oak, Brazil nut, and earthy, fragrant damp moss within the rich sherry complexity.

A voluptuous, palate-saturating whisky, with burnt orange, ginger spices, star anise, dried fig, and ripe purple plums, concluding with chocolate truffles.

It’s a rollicking good blend, dripping with sherry notes, and leaves a deep glow far back in the palate.

A pedigree blend gracing your glass with aromas of sultana, prune, glacé cherry, toffee, nutmeg, dense dark fruits, sweet toffee, and cozy Christmas spices.

This well-paced, silky blend canters through red apple, cherry, pomegranate, pressed date bars, Brazil nut, nutmeg, and pepper.

Cinnamon, black pepper, and apple peel make for a harmonious finish.

A suitably glamorous libation for spectators of the sport of kings.

Generous sweet sherried nose; very ripe, with dried orchard fruits, chestnut puree, and indeed chestnut honey, then a little touch of meat and a pungency akin to Guyanan pot still rum.

As it opens there’s a fluxing mix of sticky toffee, game, pomegranate, and dried red fruits.

The palate is deeply savory, with floor polish and cooked plums, finishing with fragrant pepper.

Here we see a significant step-change from the progression of 13 to 19 (see below).

Now, there is added spice, ripe fresh cooked and dried fruits, and a touch of the peat smoke that used to be lightly added.

The palate remains thick and silky, with melted white chocolate before lilies make an appearance alongside baked pineapple.

Part of the Rare Vintage range, this was matured in first-fill sherry butts.

The palate is initially malty-sweet, with sherried Christmas cake notes, then plain chocolate and raisins emerge.

The finish is long, spicy, and drying in a leisurely manner, with the expected level of tannins for a whisky of this vintage.£620

There should be few qualms about snapping up this aged Highland gem given the blender’s prowess and the generous pricing.

Ripe stone fruit, straw, sweet oak, and ground almond on the nose.

For its advancing years, it’s quite a ride at full strength; thick, glossy, and mouth-coating with tangy sweet oranges, fudge, and candied citrus.

Best sipped neat, it ebbs away with bright orange fruit and buzzy spices.

Some raisin syrup backed with clean, apple-like acidity adding some freshness.

This swells into a deep but refined musky apple/pear note with some black fruits behind.

A classic mature Linkwood with all of the distillery character on show in perfect alliance with the cask.

This Glen Grant is light, clean, and penetrating, with lots of gooseberry, melon, basil, and cut grass.

This turns into an intriguing note of concentrated fruits; think yellow wine gums and fresh William pear.

The palate has classic Glen Grant purity, with a hint of tropical fruits.

Water adds another graceful layer on top, making the effect more like a rose garden…one which you keep returning to.

This 2016 release in its ceramic flagon entices you with lemon, soft fruits, honey, digestive biscuits, and taffy candy.

It’s dense and weighty; oozing with flavors of barley sugar, caramel, sweet oak, and some mature orange peel characteristics underpinned with ginger and pepper.

Profoundly long, sweet finish pricked with bitter orange and spice.

One of those great drams that you can happily imbibe at cask strength without dilution.

The first release from Ailsa Bay distillery is an NAS peated single malt.

The new make spirit initially spends 6 to 9 months in 24 to 100-liter Hudson Baby Bourbon casks.

It’s then transferred to virgin oak, first-fill, and refill American oak casks for several years.

A sweet, smoky nose with almonds and walnuts leads into a palate featuring citrus fruit, spicy peat, and cereal notes, with cocoa and soft oak in the finish.

This limited edition 20 year old assemblage was matured in bourbon barrels, sherry casks, Cabernet Franc casks, Cabernet Sauvignon casks, and Pinot Noir barriques.

Rich and sweet on the nose, with marzipan, apricot jam, and fresh pineapple with vanilla custard.

The finish is long, with black pepper, licorice, and slightly tannic oak.

Soft and slightly smoky in the mouth, with vanilla and spicy, ripe pears.

  A touch of licorice leads into a long, slightly drying finish.

Inhale deeply and this bestows a sense of serenity; morning dew on clipped lawns strewn with spent fireworks and strands of honey mingled with subtle, elegant smoke.

Blender Maureen Robinson’s light, well-balanced creation ushers in gentle honey and growing sweetness, before billowing puffs of smoke grow dominant.

Charred peaks of a lemon meringue pie, iced coffee, and milk chocolate follow, leaving a catch of smoke in the aftertaste.

Sweet caramel on the boundary of maple syrup flavors, with aging tobacco leaf, walnuts, malted barley, charcoal sticks, and snuffed candle wicks, all cushioned by soft oak.

An initial impression of a lighter character, though it’s bursting with juicy toffee, butterscotch sauce, wood spices, and dried banana.

The spices vibrate gently around the gums on the dry finish of this high-malt content blend, leaving nutty residual flavors.

The salty coastal twang meets the sherry head on, revealing mandarin, gingerbread, glazed ham, clove, seashells, and driftwood bonfires built on pebble beaches.

More honeyed sweetness comes through, while a smothering layer of peat rises up.

Warm spicy finish, until a thick curtain of smoke closes it down.

Not Compass Box at the very top of its game, but pretty damn good nevertheless.

This is a mix of malts from different distilleries and it has the company's distinctive DNA all over it, combining siege cannon-strength peated malt with rich, fruity, sherried whisky.

It's clumsier than the wonderful Flaming Heart but in the same ballpark, and I have to declare an interest — I adore this combination when it's delivered right.

The smoking wicks of church candles, smoked meat, coastal notes, cumin, coriander seed, and herbal elements.

Peaches, citrus, and pineapple, with a waxy presence building later on, settles to a dry finish of herbs and beeswax.

We can easily overlook the narcissism of making tributes to your own past bottlings as John Glaser turns whisky resurrectionist in homage to Eleuthera.

Layered, complex, thought provoking, and finely tuned for the connoisseur.

Compared to Asyla, this has noticeable added richness, fruit, and spice.

The nose brings apple danish, creamy custard, honey, citrus peel, and the fragrance of lightly toasted spices.

Against a core of rich, tangy fruits, a spicy partnership of pepper and clove manifests under the tongue, stealthily curls around the sides, and storms the palate.

The mouth-coating finish drips with mandarin and cooked apple pierced by clove.

A special bottling in recognition of Chicago's outstanding alternative rock venue Delilah's, and like that venue this is full of character, color, grit, and determination.

It's sweet but never cloying, soft and honeyed but gutsy, and there are peppermint, licorice, and fresh hay notes in the mix, too.

A fantastically earthy whisky bristling with real, grubby peat: more blazing, bothy peat fire than coastal campfire.

A smooth, creamy blend with lemon curd, vanilla sponge, mint, smoked prosciutto, and a dollop of malt.

There’s wonderfully smoky, singeing heat at the back of the palate, though it feels like the Islay peat has been pegged back for the 2015 batch.

An older, more exotic expression of Hedonism, consisting of 42 year old Invergordon and 29 year old Cameron Bridge grain whiskies.

This is richer and cleaner than most other grain whisky offerings, which are often too thin and overweight with dry oak.

Like many older grain whiskies, creamy vanilla, coconut custard, and a variety of tropical fruits abound.

Additional notes of toasted marshmallow, caramelized apricot, golden raisin, and a gentle dried spice finish add complexity.

Surely one of the better examples of this rather eccentric category.

Earthy peat smoke with medicinal characteristics of lanolin and antiseptic, a salty tang balanced with creamy vanilla, strands of citrus, and touches of menthol and aniseed.

Smooth as a thief in the night; mouth-coating toffee, growing smoky notes, and peppered mackerel push back the waxy, citrus elements.

Would you take one of the world's most iconic blends and risk messing with it?

If you've got a whisky maker as good as Jim Beveridge, then why not?

This picks up from the regular JW Black and its signature Caol Ila smoke and peat heart and then adds to it, doing exactly what it says on the tin.

But the clever part of this is upping the apple, orange, and fruit content too.

Orange grove before harvest, a rounded candied peel note, plenty of sweet grain, and creamy vanilla, all backed by gentle spice.

Luscious and chewy caramel, taffy candy, lavishly rich orange, and glowing spice notes wrap around the tongue.

It’s incredible how they can make this tasty blend of five whiskies look so devastatingly easy (when it’s not).

Not exactly a new whisky for the Jubilee, just a new pack, but it’s a good enough excuse to have a look at this top-end blend.

Great maturity with masses of orchard fruits and a hint of passion fruit as well.

The oak is rounded and supple while with water a banana note is released.

Thick and chewy, with more grip than suggested on the nose and a little nut on the finish.

The divine stone fruit aromas are the key to unlocking the nose on this one: apricot, honey, vanilla icing, malt bins, Quaker Oats Squares, and lofty floral top notes.

Sweet mandarin, brown sugar, vanilla fudge, strands of finely shredded peel, and more spice than the 12 year old can muster.

The sweet vanilla aftertaste is softer and more elegant than the younger expressions.

Aromas of delicate fruit, coconut, vanilla and toffee, with delicate background oak notes.

Aromas of complex ripe fruit (golden raisins, marmalade, cherries, apples), toffee, treacle, and hint of mint.

I'm so happy to see this fine whisky finally imported to the U.S. after being available in its homeland now for about two years.

The name a'bunadh literally means "the origin" in Gaelic, and it produced in the style of Aberlour back in the late 1800s-at the natural strength and not chill filtered.

It certainly is an exciting whisky, produced in small batches (mine was Batch #6) from select oloroso sherry casks.

I've noticed a slight variation in color from one batch to the next, largely due to the types of sherry casks selected.

More subtle and complex than the new 12 year old, and not as sweet.

Creamy in texture and floral on the nose, with dried vanilla, gentle spice, nectarine, kiwi, plum, and lemon gum drops.

Notes of complex honey-drenched fruit (sultana, marmalade, peaches, apples), toffee, treacle, and hint of mint.

There’s no surprises here-it definitely smells like a young Ardbeg.

Big beautiful explosion of smoky, tarry flavors that evolve and seem to linger on the palate indefinitely.

This is the first Ardbeg release I've tasted since the distillery's long shut down in the 1980s.

After the shut down, they discontinued their floor maltings, so I was concerned that it might not taste like the Ardbeg of old.

My only criticism of this particular release is that it could have used about one or two more years in oak to tame some of the spirity nature of the whisky.

Here’s what I’m picking up, in somewhat descending order in taste profile: leafy smoke, coal tar, mocha fudge with dark chocolate chips, smoked olive, peppered seaweed salad, fruit (lemon, lime), genever, brine-tinged grass, and (with some coaxing) floral notes (violet?).

Compared to last year’s debut release of Supernova, this one is certainly comparable, but I feel it’s a tad richer, with more leafy smoke and ripe barley.

I like it a little more than its predecessor (which I rated an 89).

It’s made up of a mélange of different casks: American oak, refill, French oak…and others.

Intense, marine, with pineapple, wet moss, tar, cracked black pepper, and a nuttiness.

The palate is oily, sweet, with smoked cream, balanced by a very pure acidity, then soot and char.

(The entry level Ardmore “Traditional” is at the opposite end of the age spectrum, tasting quite youthful.)

My initial concern with this 30 year old was: would the wood dominate the lovely floral, smoky notes I enjoy so much with Ardmore?

The wood is certainly present, but the smoke still comes through.

There’s a gently layered sweetness that complements the smoke (toffee, deep caramel, subtle honey), licorice root, bourbon barrel char, coffee grounds, and high cocoa chocolate, with subtle dried citrus and a suggestion of floral soap.

Considering that Ardmore has historically been a blending malt, most of the stocks right now are much younger.

It’s a wee bit thin in body and a little on the dry side from 30 years on wood for me to rate it in the mid 90s, but it’s still a very enjoyable whisky.

This is not a single-cask bottling like other recent wine-finished releases, but the casks they selected are very good ones.

The Madeira dovetails beautifully with the malt and oak, and it has matured nicely for a whisky less than ten years old.

Lush notes of orange marmalade, raspberry tart, and panforte, all wrapped up in rich toffee and a dusting of nutmeg, cinnamon, and cocoa.

A dry, resinous, spicy, tactile finish adds balance, complexity, and additional dimension.

The sherry is kept in balance and does not mask Auchentoshan’s subtle beauty.

The classic Auchentoshan creamy, grassy, freshness abounds, complemented by honey-soaked almonds, cereal grain, and an array of bright fruit (citrus, sultana, mandarin).

Not as polished as the Auchentoshan 21 year old, but quite entertaining.

Soft, subtly seductive aromas of creamy vanilla, crème brulee, tropical fruit, oak, and a hint of mint.

Light to medium in body-silky in texture at first, then becoming and firm.

On the palate, the whisky starts out gently sweet, with creamy vanilla and honeyed malt.

The whisky then begins to dry out fairly rapidly (this is a 36 year old Lowland after all), as dry resinous notes of vanilla, mint, and herbs reveal themselves.

The way the owners of Auchentoshan and Glen Garioch are handling vintage bottlings now is that specialty retailer orders an entire cask and sells it exclusively.

It's older than the previous, widely distributed 1966 bottling and less expensive too!

You wouldn't expect a triple distilled Lowland whisky to age so gracefully.

It has acquired the depth and maturity from extensive aging, yet it still manages to maintain its distillery character and Lowland gentility.

But that's a small price to pay for an otherwise very good single cask whisky at a very reasonable price for 36 years old.

A special Balvenie to honor Master Distiller David Stewart’s 30 years working at the distillery.

It’s complex and richly flavored (sweeter up front and increasingly dry towards its finish), with notes of honey, candied fruit, thick cut marmalade, vanilla, almonds, and prominent spicy oak notes.

I’m picking up plenty of sherry in this new expression, which I like.

While I enjoy this whisky a great deal, you might want to seek out the Balvenie 25 year old (which I rated a 93) while the odd bottle is still available.

It is slightly more rounded on the palate, and less than half the cost.

In fact, this is one of the most deftly-balanced whiskies I’ve tasted this year.

Bramble, ripe nectarine, caramel apple, honeyed vanilla, and golden raisin, spiced with cinnamon and nutmeg.

This latest release of what is becoming a legendary series mixes nine casks—four butts, five hoggies—from between 1966 and 1990.

Hugely complex and obviously mature, it is one to sit and smell forever.

Marzipan, mocha, pain au chocolat, manuka honey; every sniff reveals another aroma.

It takes water, but only a drop, for that density is all-important.

This latest installment of the Tun 1401 series is a classic expression of old, mature Balvenie, where a waxiness akin to furniture polish slides into mead-like aromas; actually more like metheglin, as there’s an herbal, spiced element.

Its textural richness means it is best with water on the side, allowing deep earthy, licorice, and cigar ash tones to
develop, along with just the lightest squeeze of tannin.

The oldest of the set shows a shift into a sense of calm and quietude.

The dried blossoms of youth are there, still with a little color to them, while a curl of smoke also comes through.

Then, out of nowhere, a sudden eruption of tropical fruits, a flaring in the dying light.

There’s no oakiness, just a distillery, framed, gently receding.

The nose offers malt, vanilla fudge, pineapple, and contrasting lemon.

Lively tropical fruits on the palate, almonds, walnuts, and ginger cookies, with ever-present oak.

Great balance between vibrant oak spice and lush, sherried fruit.

Interwoven notes of honeyed malt, vanilla, citrus fruit, milk chocolate, and lingering peat add complexity.

Beautifully clean and polished on the palate -- it still allows BenRiach’s other flavors to shine through.

Ripe, complex tropical fruit notes meld with delicate honey and suggestions of shortbread cookies and toasted coconut.

No hiding that this is one of BenRiach’s peated variants, with smoke coming at you like an out of control garden bonfire, but the inherent sweetness of the distillery character adds a counterpoint: cinnamon-dusted apples baking in the fire, before angelica and cannabis (someone tells me) come through.

The interplay between fruits and grassy smoke continues on the palate alongside toffee, nougat, peach syrup, and salty licorice before the smoke returns.

Following on from 21 and 25 year old expressions of Authenticus, BenRiach has now added its oldest variant yet to the lineup.

The nose offers orchard fruits, honey, polished oak, and vanilla-tinged peat smoke.

Full and fruity on the palate, with sweet peat having a presence, plus milk chocolate and licorice.

The finish is relatively long, with citrus fruit, ashy smoke, and a lingering herbal note.

Matured in a mixture of oloroso sherry, bourbon, and virgin oak casks.

Honey, vanilla, and tropical fruits on the spicy, aromatic nose, with just a hint of oak.

The honey and vanilla carry over to the palate, where they are joined by peaches, drinking chocolate, and subtle sherry.

We had some new Benromachs from Gordon & MacPhail last issue that illustrated what the firm has been up to since it purchased the site in 1992.

This release comes from its previous incarnation as part of DCL.

The elegant, mature nose shows an ‘Old Speyside’ light smokiness alongside barley, cacao, cigar humidor, and potpourri.

The palate is gentle and unctuous with some sherried touches, while the smoke reruns on the very end.

Benromach’s first triple-distilled single malt was matured in first-fill bourbon barrels.

The nose offers peaches with a wisp of sweet smoke, vanilla, and a hint of lime.

Voluptuous and very sweet on the palate; intense sugary orchard fruits and stem ginger, with the characteristic Benromach peat smoke dialed back.

The finish embraces insistent black pepper, nutmeg, and very mild peat.

This Perthshire single malt was distilled in 1993 and aged in European oak sherry butts.

Brittle toffee, black treacle, aniseed, black pepper, and cigar boxes feature on the rich nose.

The bold palate yields full, creamy sherry notes, almonds, ginger, old leather, and a slightly savory tang.

Lush fruit, juicy oak, damp peat, and kiln smoke are peppered with cinnamon, raisins, dates, and cocoa.

This new release is an improvement from the original Darkest, both of which are succulently sherried.

It is fuller in flavor and more visceral, in both the nose and palate.

Citrus and wood spices emerge, along with burning peat embers that linger on the finish.

The fruit (orange marmalade, tangerine, fresh pineapple) is nearly as dominant as the leafy smoke.

Sweet notes of nutty caramel, honeyed barley, toffee, and nougat round out the palate.

Ginger, cinnamon, telicherry pepper, tobacco, and ash play a supporting role.

The nose takes you indoors; caramelized tropical fruits, coffee cake, a spent fire in the grate, and just the merest whiff of the waves hitting the beach.

The palate, however, places you squarely aboard a yacht under sail: salt spray, deck and engine oil, worn leather upholstery.

Matured in first-fill sherry casks, here we have Bowmore at its ballsiest, with massively bold notes of prune, dried fig, salted treacle, toffee, shoe leather, rose petal, and savory maritime edges that glance toward Marmite, all of which are infiltrated by clouds of smoke.

The palate has retained sweetness, mixing black cherry, pipe tobacco, and cloves.

Powerful and seriously impressive with fantastic balance that retains Bowmore identity, adds richness, ups the peatiness, and leaves you under Satan’s spell.

This Bowmore has been finished in sherry casks, but without allowing the exuberance of the cask to overwhelm the dram.

Instead, there’s concentrated stone fruits, lifted smoke, dried mint, dark chocolate, bitter orange peels, and some smoke.

There’s a teasing hint on the tongue of tropical fruits, then a deepening mix of plump dried figs and sultana.

Long, layered, with the smoke seamlessly involved, adding accents rather than fogging up proceedings.

The distillery closed in 1983, and was replaced by the Clynelish distillery across the street.

Briny, with citrus zest, fruit gum drops, dynamic spices, and a hint of seaweed and smoke.

All the flavors are well-integrated, and the whisky is very clean.

There’s a creamy, honeyed sweetness and viscosity to this whisky that is very soothing.

Bruichladdich’s brisk sea character cuts through the lightly syrup-like thickness and keeps the whisky fresh and lively, while notes of golden raisin, peaches, lemon gum drops, vanilla, and coconut add complexity.

A marriage of Bruichladdich with three different peating levels.

It is youthful and explosive, with earthy peat smoke, fish nets, brine, and kiln ash.

All this is tamed beautifully by notes of vanilla wafer, seductive malt, marshmallow, spiced peaches, and pear.

This one is my favorite of the four distillery-bottled Bruichladdich whiskies reviewed here.

It still quite lively and nicely balanced for such a mature whisky (and reminiscent of the previous 1970 vintage in this respect), with some floral notes and brine emerging from its fruity, vanilla, truffle, nougat foundation.

Still, it maintains an air of lightness and freshness throughout, with a pleasingly dry, subtly spicy finish that lingers.

An unusual, but very fine, Bruichladdich, with sweet, chewy toffee notes I often associate with Speyside whiskies, not Islay (although I have tasted a few older Bunnahabhain whiskies that were like this).

Layers of marzipan and chocolate fudge also emerge, and I even pick up some apple and black cherry fruit in the background.

Bruichladdich's "sea breeze" freshness rises through the chewy sweetness and provides balance and complexity.

The first 10 year old distilled by the current owners back in 2001.

Lovely marriage of both bourbon and sherry casks, and quite fresh, with a maturity resembling a 12 year old, rather than 10.

Smooth on the palate and very drinkable, with creamy vanilla, honeycomb, banana bread, bright lemon, melon (honeydew, cantaloupe), tangerine, candied ginger, and delicate brine.

With all the Bruichladdich razzle-dazzle over the past decade, we can embrace this unpretentiously delicious Laddie with open arms.

Using barley grown on Rockside Farm, this is fresh, sweet (agave syrup), delicate, and lightly buttery, with touches of lily of the valley and lemon sponge cake mix.

The cereal character is restrained, with a charred hint on the palate along with banana, mandarin, cassia, and pink marshmallows (untoasted).

The Laddie’s floral notes emerge late, and the whiff of white pepper on the end is all there is to remind you of its youth.

Robust Port Charlotte character, with salami and jamon serrano to the fore.

Somewhat like eating a chorizo and roasted red pepper sandwich on the beach on a summer’s day, but it retains the sweet freshness of the distillery character.

There’s dry smoke to start with on the palate, becoming sweet (flash-fried scallop) with sugared almond on the finish.

Quantities of Optic and Oxbridge barley varieties were grown on eight Islay family farms during 2009, and the following year this grain was distilled, then matured in bourbon and French wine casks.

The nose offers ginger, melon, malt, sweet (lit) pipe tobacco, freshly baled straw, resin, vanilla, and spice.

Chewy in the mouth; oily, with toffee spices and youthful oak notes.

Older expressions of this unpeated Islay dram are often quite delicious, but they aren't easy to come by.

The best ones, like this one, take the sweetish toffee/nutty foundation of younger expressions and add layers of depth and complexity.

The entrance is creamy in texture with layers of sweetness (caramel, vanilla fudge, toffee), becoming nutty and marzipan-like with subtle background fruit.

Nougat and dates to the fore, then becoming increasingly nutty with suggestions of Demerara rum and cinnamon and underlying polished leather.

Lovely dried spice notes and an appetizing salty tang teases the palate on the finish.

The flavors are chock full of thick chewy toffee, chocolate fudge, roasted nuts, burnt raisin, black currant, and spiced oak.

Distilled in 1969, the oldest Bunnahabhain ever released was matured in second-fill sherry butts.

The nose yields sweet resin, marzipan, ginger, glacé cherries, a hint of cloves, and red berries.

The silky palate features Jaffa oranges, dark chocolate, prunes, and more glacé cherries.

The finish dries steadily, with slightly bitter tea, white pepper, a savory note, and quite subtle oak tannins for a dram of this vintage.

Often overshadowed by other noisier neighbors, it is time to reconsider Caol Ila—and this is a fine place to start.

Coming from a refill cask it has a nose of sweet crab, ham with cider glaze, and teasing maritime smoke.

The palate mixes salt taffy with top-end peppery olive oil, allowing the flavors to cover the palate while the smoke rumbles along constantly before a salt-laden finish.

The aromas are food-related: initially roast ham with caramelized sugars, then a clambake, then oven-roasted lobster.

With water, a distinct whiff of the goat shed (nice, by the way).

The palate is refined and mature, but with fresh fruits retained, with oak and smoke beautifully integrated.

A mature Caol Ila in similar vein to the excellent (and significantly more keenly priced) 25 year old.

Both the aroma and palate express notes of spices (Dijon mustard), brine, exotic peppers, caramel, and fruit.

Initial, flirtatious notes of honey, creamy caramel and oatcakes quickly become dry and arid, with a foundation of leather and oak shavings.

The whisky is peppered throughout with notes of anise, coffee, dried herbs and undertones of Madeira.

Very forward and bullishly dry for its age, and more intense than the standard Cragganmore bottling.

Independent bottlings of Cragganmore are hard to come by, and this one is a beauty.

Cragganmore is not rich, heavy, or sweet like many Speyside whiskies.

It is clean on the palate throughout (with a brief honeyed vanilla note before becoming dry), and it is loaded with spice and dried fruits that continue to evolve.

The decision to forego chill-filtering certainly reveals more of this whisky’s subtle, yet persistent, complexity.

This expression of The Dalmore Constellation spent its entire 33 years of maturation in an ex-bourbon cask, with no additional finishing.

The result is a nose of ripe peaches and pears, honey, and vanilla.

Full-bodied, rich, sweet, elegant, yet substantial on the palate, with pineapples and fudge.

The Dalmore spirit that comprises Ceti comes from a mix of bourbon and sherry casks, with bourbon wood predominating.

23 years of maturation in American oak were followed by seven years in 30 year old Gonzalez Byass Matusalem oloroso sherry butts.

The result is a nose of old leather, hessian, sandalwood, vanilla, plain chocolate, and ripe Jaffa oranges.

Very full-bodied, with burnt orange, pineapple, and sticky toffee, while the finish offers ginger, orange wine gums, and old oak.

Dalmore 25 year old comprises spirit matured initially in American oak casks, some of which is then transferred into first-fill bourbon barrels, while the remainder goes into Palomino fino sherry butts.

The two batches are then reunited in bourbon barrels before a final finishing in tawny port pipes.

Vanilla, figs, toffee, and ripe oranges on the festive nose, while the palate features more orange, peaches, milk chocolate, and sherry.

The chocolate darkens in the lengthy finish, with ginger and licorice.

This veteran expression from Deanston Distillery was matured in refill bourbon casks before spending no fewer than 10 years in oloroso sherry butts.

Rose petals, fresh pineapple, clotted cream, cinnamon, and dusty oak on the enticing nose.

Unctuous in the mouth, with apple pie, cinnamon, hazelnuts, and ginger.

There have been a lot of old, heavily sherried, independently bottled Glen Grant whiskies on the market over the past several years.

This one appears to be from a refill sherry cask, as its influence is more subtle.

It has aged well, showing no excessive oak, but plenty of fruit (summer fruits, dried citrus, stewed fruits, tangerine, golden raisin), balanced by polished oak, grape skin, and subtle dark chocolate.

This is quite different from the Adelphi Glen Grant bottling (below), being more cask-driven, but Glen Grant’s clean fruitiness remains, although transformed by age.

Its apples are baked, with some added caramelized juices thrown in; we see apricot alongside dried lemon peel, and light, sweet spice.

The waxiness here is akin to leather oil, while the oak has sufficient grip to give structure.

from each of his five decades.

There’s lots of buttery oak before classic Glen Grant lift and energy
butter icing and nettles with water.

The palate is vibrant and energetic, but
holds to the middle of the tongue.

If every fan of sherried whisky has a favorite GlenDronach then this is a long way down the road to being mine.

It has a dusty dried orange peel, powdery, and perfumey nose, a soft and sweet round palate with a dark chocolate, tangerine, and pink grapefruit heart, and a balanced and gentle finish.

This was probably once a hollerin’ maned lion of a malt, but it’s grown old gracefully and it now purrs and growls beautifully.

The latest batch of cask strength GlenDronach should make Aberlour a’bunadh look to its laurels.

It is matured in a combination of Pedro Ximenez and oloroso sherry casks.

The nose is quite perfumed, with sweet sherry, figs, nutmeg, satsumas, and candied peel.

Voluptuous in the mouth, with early bright fruit notes, cinder toffee, and caramel, followed by darker sherry and raisin notes.

A nose of bold sherry, worn leather, figs, malt, white pepper, and ginger.

Full-bodied on the palate, with overripe damsons and more ginger; spicy sherry and dried fruits develop.

Medium to long in the finish, with persistent prickly spices, black coffee, and fragrant oak.

Sherry butt once more, but this is much more relaxed in its attentions — think Montgomery Clift seducing Elizabeth Taylor rather than De Niro chatting up Liza Minelli.

Sweetness is the key here, gentle and slightly caramelized, with touches of molasses-like concentration and even a whiff of the top of a crème brûlée.

The palate surprises with its continued freshness; apple and the distillery’s distinctive earthy richness.

The youngest of this Family Cask selection shows Glenfarclas in a surprisingly citric light, with plenty of citrus peels — tangerine, marmalade, and orange syrup, as well as sultana, suede, wax polish (surprising in a youngish dram), and chocolate — a recurring theme here.

It is almost as if all the more lifted elements in each of the previous casks have here united.

Although the youngest of the range, this has still spent 24 years in a refill butt.

  The nose is highly concentrated, with freshly-sharpened pencils and black cherry.

There’s also some tobacco and then an earthy, armagnac-esque pruniness.

Water brings out a resinous element, supple leather, and fruit syrups, allowing it to retain complexity.

The driest of the range with the most obvious grip; for lovers of big, sherried, malts.

Instantly seductive: vanilla pod, rich fruits, the smell of fur coats.

A base of crisp malt mixes with oak to give balance and structure.

The palate is broad and balanced, with real sweetness and a tongue-coating quality which softens to dried fruit, earthy density, with a whiff of smoke.

It brings to mind elements of long-dried concentrated fruit and nut, damson, even smoke.

The tannins are initially dusty, but a splash of water adds a fresh potpourri perfume.

This latest vintage release from Glen Garioch is a cask strength 25 year old.

It follows on from previous ‘small-batch’ 1978, 1990, 1991, and 1994 vintages.

Sweet notes (vanilla, sticky toffee), ripe barley, earthy peat, licorice root, and a hint of melon and citrus.

I can’t imagine a 14 year old Glen Garioch tasting any better than this.

A polished whisky, light-medium in body with well-rounded flavors.

Fruity (ripe orange, lemon gumdrops, candy apple), with creamy vanilla and a honeyed, toasted malt foundation.

The initial release in Glenglassaugh’s new ‘The Chosen Few’ range has been picked by customer accounts manager Ronnie Routledge.

It was distilled in 1976 and matured in an ex-sherry butt that yielded 654 bottles.

Initially, an aroma of Black Twist tobacco and treacle, with sweeter and more floral notes following on.

Mouth-coating, with sweet sherry and tropical fruits, plus developing honey and spice notes.

Glenglassaugh has altered its policy of offering single cask expressions of its 40 year old, and replaced these with a vatting of casks to provide an ongoing release program, offered at cask strength and without chill filtration.

The nose is pleasingly complex, with ginger, honey, milk chocolate, icing sugar, sherry, plums, and new leather.

Resinous on the palate, with pineapple and brittle toffee, then black coffee and aniseed.

There are just 100 bottles of this malt available this year, with a further 100 or so released each Christmas from the same cask each year until 2014, effectively offering malt enthusiasts the chance to plot a work in progress.

Better still, this first effort is one of the best releases ever to come out of the distillery.

The name is spot on; it really is Christmas in a glass, with the almost feminine aromas of rosewater, flowers, candy stick, and fruit giving way to a huge sherry note on the palate.

Dark chocolate, cherry, orange, and chili notes combine to offer up a bold and full malt.

Some special bottlings from Glengoyne have been over-oaky or marred by sulfur, but not this one.

The latest addition to Glengoyne’s permanent range is a 25 year old, matured in European oak sherry casks and presented in non-chill filtered format.

Syrup-like on the nose, very sweet, with milk chocolate, ginger, Jaffa oranges, and sticky toffee pudding.

Smooth and sweet on the palate, with overt sherry, sultanas, and gentle spice.

The finish is medium to long, with a hint of oak, old leather, and lingering cloves.

A very clean whisky, with fragrant dried flowers, aromas of germinating barley, textured honey, vanilla waver, coconut cream and teasing fresh pineapple.

For those who love the richly elegant, non-sherried style of older Glenlivet whiskies.

Aged exclusively in first-fill bourbon casks and bottled unfiltered and at natural cask strength.

This takes the usually subtle Glenlivet and makes it more vibrant, amplifying its flavors while accentuating the bourbon oak.

Tight notes of honeyed malt, vanilla bean, toasted oak, bright fruit, and nuts, are peppered with more subtle floral and spice notes.

This whisky maintains the elegance cherished by Glenlivet enthusiasts, but finishing the whisky in limousin oak produces a whisky of deeper wood notes, particularly wood spices (vanilla, sandalwood, perhaps even mint) and floral notes.

Younger bottlings of Glenlivet are often quite elegant and subtle.

But such finesse isn’t always evident in older expressions, which often become dominated by sherry and oak.

This one, at 35 years of age, demonstrates plenty of elegance and finesse.

What impresses me most about this whisky is that you wouldn’t know it was 35 year old just by taste.

It isn’t the least bit tired on the palate, and it is very clean, without the excessive woodiness often found in whiskies of this age.

Plus, the balance of flavors is impeccable-vanilla, honeyed malt, peaches, pineapple, heather, and just a touch of oak.

You would expect any 70 year old whisky to be crepuscular, dense, and wooded.

The nose is amazingly fresh — distillery character fully intact — with layers of rancio and heavy florals.

In time, there’s candle wax, vanilla, milk chocolate, and a touch of leather, even the whiff of a soft mink stole.

The palate is like an ancient vin santo with oxidized nuttiness, quince and medlar, and subtle peat.

A first-fill American oak hoggie was the receptacle for the representative from the 1960s.

The cask has provided an extremely relaxed environment for maturation to take place, with a return of the pineapple (grilled on a barbecue this time), along with linden blossom, cream, green jasmine tea, and mint.

The maturity kicks in on the palate — thick and slow with some sandalwood alongside honeysuckle.

Waves of fruit (apple pie, orange marmalade, sultana, ripe pineapple), accented with notes of dark chocolate, roasted nuts, and spice (cinnamon, vanilla, ginger, evergreen), particularly on the finish.

(In the past, I’ve thought that a couple of these limited edition Glemorangie wood finishes were a little overdone with the finishing, but not this one).

Style: Highland single malt scotch Color: Golden honey Aroma: Lush and mouthwatering.

Notes of honey, peaches in syrup, golden raisins, coconut, vanilla, and background resinous oak.

Honey and fruit up front, with some oak notes, wood resins and vanilla mid-palate, becoming sweet again with a soothing finish.

The first of Glenmorangie’s new “Private Collection” line of whiskies for Travel Retail.

With PX being so rich and intense, and Glenmorangie spirit so subtly complex and delicate, does the sherry dominate here?

I’m picking up rhum agricole drenched with honeyed apricot, toffee almond, chocolate-covered raisin, glazed citrus, and cherry pits, all leading to a leathery, tobacco-tinged finish.

Ealanta is the fourth release in Glenmorangie’s Private Edition series, and has been aged in heavily-charred virgin white oak casks from Missouri for nineteen years.

The result is a nose of American cream soda, milk chocolate, fudge, pineapple, and honey; spicy and creamy.

Silky smooth in the mouth, with brittle toffee and orange notes; gently herbal, with a suggestion of cloves and newly-sawn wood.

Long in the finish, with citrus fruit, oak, aniseed, and an enduring spicy creaminess.

Companta—Gaelic for friendship—is the fifth of Glenmorangie’s Private Edition releases.

It comprises a blend of whiskies finished in Clos de Tart Grand Cru wine casks and in fortified wine casks from Côtes du Rhône.

The palate is rich and complex, with cocoa powder, nutmeg, more leather, and redcurrants.

Flavors of honeyed malt, well structured fruit, and vanilla, with a long finish.

Lush, rich aromas of rummy toffee, nuts, vanilla, with interwoven notes of glazed fruit.

There are layers of sweetness on the palate (toffee, caramel, marzipan and dates), becoming nutty with a pleasing oak woodiness to balance the sweetness.

Immediately you can tell this is a complex, old, mature whisky — that hint of rancio is there, but there’s more of a beeswax character than on the Adelphi bottling (below), along with the peachiness that often appears in old drams.

The waxiness seen on the nose allows it to cling to the tongue, while the fruits become jellied.

Benefits from a drop of water, allowing lemon and vanilla to show.

The oldest of a new three-strong range from Glenrothes called the Manse Brae series; the youngest component here is 21 years old.

Serious and lightly meaty, the savory characters come at you, mixing gun smoke with cypress, sandalwood, dark chocolate, and dunnage warehouse.

The headiness of moist forest floor continues on the tongue along with a burst of honeyed peach.

A new expression due out in March, positioned between the 12 and 18 year old versions.

A fresh and enormously drinkable whisky; very silky, with honeyed malt, delicate citrus and berry fruit, floral notes (heather and lavender), and a hint of cocoa and sea spray.

Highland Park 12 Year Old boasts individuality and complexity, thanks in part to the use of Orcadian peat in the distillery floor maltings and the employment of ex-sherry casks for maturation.

The nose is fragrant and floral, with hints of heather and some spice.

Smooth and honeyed on the palate, with citrus fruits, malt, and distinctive tones of wood smoke in the warm, lengthy, slightly peaty finish.

Thor is the first in Highland Park’s new cask strength Valhalla Collection, with a fresh expression inspired by the Nordic gods due to be released annually over the next four years.

Ginger, sherry, Christmas spices, wood smoke, vanilla, and a hint of lemon on the complex, confident nose.

Notably spicy in the mouth, with peaches, clotted cream, sherry, and more smoke.

Long in the finish, with lots of ginger, a little aniseed, and finally, spicy peat.

Fire is the first Highland Park expression to be fully matured in “refill port wine-seasoned casks” and it carries a 15 year age statement.

Very fruity on the nose—raspberries and prunes —plus lightly-smoked pineapple and vanilla.

More smoky, spicy fruit features on the palate, with a light sprinkling of cinnamon.

The peat dries to leave ashy licorice and black pepper in a lingering finish.

This vintage expression from Jura has been matured in three first-fill bourbon casks and then finished for one year in a ruby port pipe.

Apricots, pineapple, caramel, butterscotch, sultanas, and white chocolate on the nose.

The palate is warm and spicy, with subtle pine and citrus fruits, along with coconut and a hint of peat.

Long in the finish with more vanilla before dried fruits and oak kick in.

The aromas are tightly bound, but a little water releases them nicely.

A powerful dram, with tarry, leafy, coal ash, caramel apple, and driftwood notes; even a little soapy (not necessarily a negative).

More subtle floral notes (heather, violet), Earl Grey tea, and smoked fish.

It’s been quite a year for Lagavulin; a 25 year old is due (but no sample at the time of writing).

This was a 6,000-strong bottling, aged in refill hoggies and ‘bodega’ butts.

Initially restrained and mildly oxidized, it shows angelica, a spritz of lemon juice on potted shrimp, then fennel pollen and water mint.

Very smooth for Laphroaig -- the extra aging has mellowed this whisky.

Soothing honeyed malt, creamy vanilla, and toffee provide a bed for peat smoke, charcoal, and tar; along with more subtle brine, smoked seaweed, anise, ginger, and citrus.

A gentler, creamier, more tactile, less medicinal Laphroaig when compared to some of its siblings.

Will you prefer the new 18 year old to the 15 year old it is replacing?

I enjoy the balance and subtle complexity of flavors with the 15 year old, but I also like the enhanced richness and mouth-coating creaminess of the 18.

The higher strength (and no chill-filtering) of the 18 is certainly a bonus.

(Side note: I know this is a moot point now, but I would like to have seen the 15 year old bottled at 48%, rather than 43%.)

Similar to Laphroaig Quarter Cask, but also finished in oloroso sherry casks.

Fruit and smoke: fleshy red berries, red licorice, toffee, ripe barley, coal tar, sun-baked seaweed, peat smoke, and a hint of coffee grounds.

I rated the Quarter Cask a 91, and I think this whisky is similar in quality.

If you like sherry-influenced whiskies, then go for the Triple Wood.

(Currently exclusive to Travel Retail and European specialist retailers.)

A (very) special anniversary bottling, this is old-style, brooding Laphroaig.

Fully mature and rich, it shows that classic roiling mass of kelp, oil, and brine, always balanced by sweetness: in this case autumn berry fruits.

The palate is gentle and slow with the characteristic camphoraceous lift of bog myrtle on the back palate, which is all that remains of the smoke.

The 18 year old is Loch Lomond’s flagship single malt and marks the improvement in quality from this distillery during recent years.

The nose offers peaches and vanilla, mild spice, pipe tobacco, and a hint of sweet wood smoke.

Nicely textured, with bold, sweet, citrus fruit flavors, vanilla, almonds, and cocoa.

Nutty, gently spicy, with cocoa and a hint of coffee in the lengthy, subtly peated finish.

Having replaced the 16 year old Longmorn with a no age statement Distiller’s Choice, owner Chivas Brothers reintroduced the16 year old.

Vanilla, milk chocolate, and honey on the nose, plus quite intense sweet pear and apple notes.

More rich fruit notes on the nicely textured palate, with vanilla and milk chocolate carrying over from the nose, plus raisins.

Aromas of toffee and malt, with interwoven dried fruit, flowers, and spices-a real potpourri.

Rich flavors of toffee, wood resin spices, and citrus, finishing with notes of malt, toffee, and a hint of leather and smoke.

This is like a blast from the past, with much in common with the sherried Cask Strength of old, and a welcome treat for any fan of the big, sherried Macallans.

All the red berry and blood orange notes are present on the nose, along with cocoa and a dusty smokiness.

The palate is full, velvety and chewy, with Christmas cake, oranges, and some nuttiness.

Nutmeg and cinnamon fill out the mouth feel, before a long and classic sherried finish.

On more familiar ground with this G&M bottling of one of Speyside’s most iconic single malts, this is Macallan in full-on sherried form.

Highly aromatic with powdered clove, hints of incense and fig, behind which is cacao, Bolivar cigar, and molasses.

The palate has immediate smoke and surprisingly gentle tannins — the inherent oiliness of the spirit keeping any grip at bay.

Initially it seems tight and (sherry) cask driven, but soon you are taken into a winter kitchen with scents of venison, and appropriate rowanberry edges adding a sweet and sour fruitiness.

That wild berry note is given another nudge by a whiff of burning juniper.

The palate shows it to be thick with a quivering mass of black fruits, and a finish of molasses and licorice.

There’s a plummy thread that runs through this range; here we’ve gone to prune, mixed with dried cherries, and a sweet/savory edge whose whiff of heavy rose petal is reminiscent of Barolo.

Classical in structure and aromatics, but that vinous sweetness is new.

This straddles the existing Sherry Oak and Fine Oak ranges by being a mix of spirit matured in both European and American oak sherry casks.

Earthy sherry and old leather on the nose, with toffee, polished oak, and cherry blossom.

Medium to full-bodied, with sherry, orange, cocoa, nutty vanilla, and developing wood spices on the honeyed palate.

The finish is creamy, with insistent spices, cocoa, and tangy oak.

This limited release was aged in seven cask types—both American and European oak in a variety of sizes—from four Spanish bodegas: Vasyma, Diego Martin, Jose Miguel Martin, and Tevasa.

Citrus fruits, ginger, black pepper, light smoke, and rubbery leather on the nose.

The palate is rich, nutty, and sweet, with malt, toffee, sticky sherry, maraschino cherries, milk chocolate, and gentle spice.

The third release in Macallan’s annual Edition series—which focuses on aspects of cask influence—was matured in a mix of European and American oak casks.

Figs and apricot jam, vanilla, Jaffa oranges, and cinnamon on the nose.

The palate is silky and offers a big citrus fruit hit, Bit-O-Honey, then creamy milk chocolate.

Milk chocolate persists through the long, fruity finish, with attendant sweet oak.

Rich amber in hue, sweet, and mellow with initial amontillado sherry notes that give way to Mortlach meatiness; here a lamb tagine with prune, apricot, and gravy juices.

This elegance gives way to a fascinating palate mix of the sweet and the savory with citrus, sultana, and a rowanberry jab on the end mingling with just a bit of smoke.

The introductory expression of the range shows a further example of the widening of the Mortlach style.

Stewed and dried fruits mingle with light earth notes, wet Labrador, supple shoe leather, and varnish.

A drop of water is all that’s needed to add a savory element and even some funky fruitiness reminiscent of cooking agave.

This is Rare Old at higher strength for folks who haunt Travel Retail outlets.

The upping of strength also changes the dynamic, making things sweeter with mushed berries and Seville orange, but also deeper, with more overt meatiness, stewed tea, and the same varnished note.

Dense, thick, stewed orchard fruits are on the palate alongside some acetone and, with water, burning rosemary and dry licorice.

The seventh limited edition release of Port Ellen whiskies by Diageo.

Not as vibrant and intense as younger bottlings (particularly on the nose), but nicely matured with a satisfying sweet foundation.

Notes of toffee and roasted nuts permeate though the peat kiln smoke, coal tar, fish nets, and charred oak.

Seaweed and brine, more reserved mid-palate, emerges noticeably on the finish.

The Port Ellen bottlings are getting older (the distillery closed in 1983) and they are getting more expensive.

These Port Ellen whiskies are becoming increasingly rare since the distillery closed down for good in 1983.

This is a very good example of an old-fashioned Islay whisky: never heavy, but with lots of kick.

There’s plenty of wet leaf, bonfire smoke, coal tar, and some earthy, damp kiln notes and brine.

But you’ll discover a lovely honeyed maltiness for balance, along with tangerine, dirty martini, and cocoa for complexity.

There will be a time when some of us will tell the next generation of whisky drinkers about the joys of Port Ellen.

Mare sure you’re one of those telling the story, not listening to it.

Very old-fashioned in nature: intertwined notes of tarry rope, coal soot, rooty peat, toffee, dark chocolate, and walnuts, spiked with coffee bean, anise, cracked peppercorn, and a hint of ginger.

This Port Ellen is a bit moody (maybe even has an attitude problem), but I’m not complaining.

Recently bottled by Duncan Taylor in their non-colored, non-chill filtered NC2 range, this 13 year old expression of Springbank initially exhibits tinned pears on the nose, then smoked fish cooked in butter, coconut oil, brine, and a hint of lemon.

The palate opens with profound, sweet fruit, swiftly followed by salt, lime, and medicinal notes.

The latest limited release of 21 year old Springbank has been matured in a mix of bourbon and sherry casks.

Sherry and bourbon notes are well integrated on the early nose, which follows up with succulent tropical fruits, toffee, and a whiff of earthy peat.

The palate is complex, confident, and oily, with dry sherry notes, almonds, figs, vanilla, wood smoke, and a hint of the sea.

The lengthy finish boasts caramel, cinnamon, brine, and soft peat.

A pleasingly aromatic aroma of dried fruit, floral notes, malt, and light toffee.

Toffee, almonds, and sweet malt notes, with interwoven notes of fruit.

The palate ultimately dries out with dried fruit, herbs and nuts on the finish.

This is one of a trio from Chivas Bros., who every year release limited editions of 500 ml cask strength bottlings from a selection of its estates.

These are predominantly only for sale on site or by mail order through www.maltwhiskydistilleries.com.

Strathisla’s a small, traditional distillery whose make is mostly pressed into service for the Chivas Regal blends.

It’s a hard to pin down malt, and it’s this elusive character that shows here: firm then soft, fragrant then deep.

The nose is intense and spicy with wax, nougat, chocolate, hazelnut, and fresh-opened banana.

The palate is explosive with real presence and power, whose firm core is softened by honey and poached fruits.

Appetizingly briny, with notes of seaweed, fishnets, lemongrass, smoke, and damp peat.

It finishes with a knockout punch: powerfully peppery and salty.

The amoroso softens Talisker’s fiery personality and adds a gentle sweetness not normally found in Talisker.

There’s a lot going on here-notes of toffee and dark chocolate, layered with bitter orange, seaweed, kippers, smoked nuts, damp peat, and kalamata olives, finishing with a peppery glow.

Not an every day dram-one has to be in the mood for a whisky like this.

For me, Talisker 30 year olds have paled in comparison to the same distillery’s 20 and 25 year olds.

Gold in color, and while it’s another one that starts ever so slightly restrained, the giveaway peppery note soon reveals itself as smoked pimento and Szechuan pepper, mixed with extra virgin olive oil spread over hot smoked salmon.

There’s also a touch of putty — something which you usually only see in youthful expressions — suggesting that here’s another refill maturation.

As with many of these older whiskies, water isn’t the best option for the palate, but a drop does help release the sweet fruitiness that always lurks in Talisker’s heart, this time accompanied by an herbal note (mint and fennel).

It’s almost as if it is looking back at itself as an 18 year old, but here the firm granitic grip of age takes hold.

The palate starts slowly but opens well with a gentle, yet assertive revealing of the aromas on the nose.

It seems to dip in energy just in the center before sparking back to life when the smoke emerges, like the last flash of defiance from an old-timer.

The thing to look for in Talisker, as with all smoky whiskies, is sweetness that gives the requisite balance to the drying effect of smoke.

Underneath Talisker’s smoke, which ain't as all-pervading as Lagavulin, is a sweet pear-like quality.

When young there are notes of the land: heather, moor, sweet seaweed, and a finish that has a distinctive cracked black pepper hit.

It is remarkably clean and fresh, with no suggestion of excessive oak.

Fragrant aroma, with notes of vanilla, coconut, honeyed malt, cereal grain, and linseed.

Similar follow through on the palate, with a texture that is soft, lightly oily, and soothing.

There’s no hint of the high strength on the nose, which is all caramel toffee and shortbread, backed with sultana-like sherry cask influence.

All you want in a sherried whisky, and it won’t burn a hole in your wallet either.

Fragrant aroma, with floral notes, soft honey tones, vanilla, and delicate fruit (orange and lemon).

Flavors are similar to the whisky's aroma, very clean, and with great balance-the woody notes one would expect from a whisky this old are kept in check.

This is the oldest core expression of Tomintoul’s Gentle Dram, now available in the U.S. It is a classic of this style of Speyside single malt.

Peaches, malt, honey, vanilla, and developing floral notes on the nose.

Full-bodied, with ripe apples, cocoa, milky coffee, honey, vanilla, and soft spices.

Spicy and drying, with plain chocolate in the relatively lengthy, mellow finish.

According to the Christie family who owned North of Scotland Distillery before it was sold to DCL in 1982 (and closed it shortly thereafter,) they would purchase the least expensive grain possible to make their grain whisky.

The barley, combined with the fact that the whisky is finished off in port casks, makes for a surprisingly rich, sweet, and fruity grain whisky, expressing notes of demerara sugar, perfumed candles, cherry almond tart, caramel and vanilla.

Remarkably restrained wood notes for such a mature whisky, which expresses itself mostly in its soft, creamy finish.

It's said that during Prohibition Bill McCoy serviced the better speakeasies with proper Cutty Sark; hence the name.

If this is a recreation of what they might have been drinking back then, you can see why they kept fighting over it.

This is another bold, earthy, smoky blend with oily, industrial notes.

There's crabapple, smoke, bitter lemon, grapefruit, and even black currant.

Imagine sipping this sophisticated libation at the supper club turned out in your best bib and tucker.

There’s a purity to it, with aromas of fresh red apples, raisins in honey, ground cinnamon, and nutmeg, leading to bitter orange oils and a storm of black pepper fading to tropical fruit, layered caramel, and sugared almonds.

Hold this long in the mouth, as it possesses a changing, multi-faceted character.

Matured in first-fill oloroso sherry casks, this is 20% peated whisky from 1997 and 80% fruitier whisky distilled in 2001.

Earthy on the early nose, with bonfire smoke, vanilla, raisins, and prunes.

The palate opens with sweet fruit notes and medium-dry sherry, giving way to nutmeg, brine, and peat.

The finish features plain chocolate, bitter lemons, and a hint of smoky chili.

Like the first, it’s aged for about three years and then finished in sherry casks—this time for a shorter two and a half months.

It’s very mature for its age, with good viscosity, showing smoldering peat, coal tar, black licorice stick, burnt dark berried fruit, thick-cut marmalade, shoo-fly pie (think molasses), toffee apple, cocoa powder, cinnamon, and a suggestion of wet sheep.

This is the sixth—and oldest—limited annual release of Loch Gorm, distilled in 2009 and aged in oloroso sherry butts.

The nose is earthy, with raisins, dry spices, smoldering peat, and a not unpleasing hint of rubber.

The palate is lively with spices, sherry, cherries, and iodine-soaked peats.

Aniseed, sweet sherried peat, and tingling spices in the medium-length finish.

Although one of the old Speyside crew (along with Mortlach, Glenfarclas, and Macallan) Balmenach has, inexplicably in my mind, never even achieved cult status.

It has simply kept on making rich, powerful, worm tub-condensed spirit for a multitude of blends.

This rare bottling therefore is hugely welcome and shows a friskier than usual side — earthy for sure and a lick of leather as well, but also walnut and sultana.

This offers a slightly oily nose, with orchard fruits, vanilla, cocoa powder, nutmeg, cucumber sprinkled with white pepper, and very subtle smoke.

Powerful flavors of peppery fruit and malt on the palate, with honey, butterscotch, milk chocolate, cinnamon, and mellow oak.

Aged in a mix of bourbon and sherry casks; the nose is initially relatively reticent, slightly earthy, with a hint of drinking chocolate, emerging sherry notes, and subtle orange.

Toffee, more chocolate, and spicy dried fruits on the relatively full-bodied palate.

Released with no age statement, Fettercairn Fior contains 15 percent heavily-peated whisky matured in first-fill ex-bourbon barrels, along with a proportion of 14 and 15 year old spirit.

The result is a bold and complex whisky with real nose presence; smoke, sherry, toffee, vanilla, and oranges merge on the nose, while the palate showcases more smoke and toffee, plus spices, oak, and licorice in the lengthy finish.

The distillery’s waxiness is a spent candle in a deserted chapel, the harvest festival fruits wrinkling on the altar.

Amazingly, in the mouth a shaft of honeyed sunlight comes through to transform the scene into one of life.

Everything glows, the wax returns, and then, with the smoke increasing, the light fades.

If Willy Wonka was ever inclined to condense a knickerbocker glory into a dram, it would nose and taste like this: caramel toffee, hints of cocoa, peeled banana, chewy marshmallows, cream, and gooey fudge sauce.

The palate has banana, slightly burnt caramel, poached pear, and Banoffee pie layered over mixed peel flavors, adding to its delicious appeal.

It’s sweet, dry, smooth, and comforting, like that final satisfying mouthful drained from a mug of hot chocolate.

You have to take your hat off to Berry Bros. & Rudd’s Doug McIvor, who is whisky's answer to Bruce Springsteen: consistently brilliant, complex, spanning the generations, and in the form of his life.

This just doesn't let up, with plenty of smoke and peat in the mix, but with citrus fruits, some plummy depths, and a vanilla cushion.

It's not made clear which Islay malts are included in this blended malt, but whoever's responsible for this has brought the big guns.

This successfully pulls off an intense one-two, with hard hitting Islay peat and brine on the one hand, and some rich sweetness on the other, making for a mouth-coatingly rich and intense whisky.

The malts pack down together like a rugby scrum and combine with impressive intensity.

This is big, and it's smoky, and if you're a fan of Islay malts, then it's right up your street.

There's stewed apple on the nose as well as steam engine oil, and on the palate there's gooseberry, spearmint, and apple pip.

So which independent bottler comes out in the 'Big' battle of the Islay blended malts?

Given this is bottled at a lower strength and it's at a lower price, I'm calling it a draw.

The latest batch of this is the best yet, with Ardbeg, Caol Ila, and Bowmore the main components, although there is also some Port Ellen in the mix.

This takes peat to the extreme, conjuring up a moist, chocolate slab of peat being cut and lifted out of the bog.

So smoky, you will feel like you’re breathing in the dense clouds rising above the smoldering kilns.

A punchy thwack of peat at full strength, and even if you cut it with water, it only highlights salty fishboxes and some buttery caramels cowering from the backdraft.

A deliberately singular character, but utterly brilliant nonetheless.

William Grant & Sons will be releasing a series of Ghosted Reserves in the years ahead, drawing on their remaining stock from closed distilleries.

Here, Brian Kinsman has used whisky from Ladyburn and Inverleven to create a nose of zesty key lime pie, peach, butter mintoes, and sweet oak.

It is truly moreish, with creamy, malty flavors of sweet mandarin, marzipan, and strawberry with a chalky mouthfeel of candy sticks that lingers through the finish.

Toasty granola, rye crackers, barley sugar sweetness, and Murray Mints make for a balanced nose on this top-of-the-range blend representing the art deco elegance of 1920s Shanghai.

A gloriously thick texture of rich citrus blossoms bolstered by toffee, lime, pineapple, tropical fruits, and vanilla sugar.

Mr. Kinsman has engineered methodical and well-paced complexity here, with emergent little lights of spiciness.

A long-lasting, deep orange buzz and dimming spice round off proceedings.

Swiss-based Chapter 7 released this 19 year old single malt, a marriage of two sherry butts (#796 and #1,476).

Malt, sweet sherry, cocktail cherries, milky coffee, and a slightly earthy undertone on the nose.

Very rich on the palate, with chewy-sweet soft fruits, notably strawberries, syrup sponge, and lively fruit spices.

Ovaltine, Whoppers, worn leather, antique furniture, medjool dates, and black fruits on the nose.

Given the olfactory cues of advanced maturity, it’s surprisingly nimble and still light on its toes.

A charming opening of crumble filling with red currant, cranberry, raspberry, and strawberry, joined by apple, pear, and sultana, with peppery spice.

This slippery little rogue exudes sweet popcorn, lemon peel, summer florals, linseed, and

Rather tasty; the cask strength alcohol rips through the juicy mandarin and toffee opening, overcoming an active peppery middle section, then relinquishing its grip to leave herbal notes, corn, and fudge.

Big, resinous, and almost heathery, with significant cask influence for a decade-old dram.

The aroma is like a cobbler’s workshop: oils, leather, grease, polish, and then licorice.

On the palate, there’s the prune notes of armagnac, the sweetness and cedar flavors of old rum, and very Rothes-esque spiciness.

Water, just a drop, lightens it a little, allowing the underlying sweetness to show.

A beautiful oxidized note, with soft fruitcake, steamed pudding, a little hint of overripe fruits, and sweet spices.

As it opens, there’s barley sugar sweets, then custard tart with nutmeg, clover honey, and marzipan.

It starts sweetly in the mouth with a thick, honeyed texture, which becomes more delicate with water.

Added oxidative notes of nuts moves things into Brandy de Jerez territory.

Sumptuous stuff, with Miltonduff’s floral character adding a delicate top note, something which is enhanced with water.

The tannins are light, allowing a silky feel to predominate, with just enough of a bitter edge to add interest.

Fresh peach, cherry blossom, red Tunes, baked apple, hay bales, acetone, orange peel, and old pepper grinders.

A silky texture with red apple, orange oils, and a luxuriantly refined taste leads to apple peelings, caramel, and ginger.

The finish slips away quietly: melon, peach, fudge, and a final twist of pepper.

Great to see Douglas Laing bringing out more XOP single grains of such standing.

As if this cheeky devil from Douglas Laing wasn’t good enough already!

Strawberry napoleon, mint leaves rubbed between finger and thumb, runny honey, fresh peach, and wood whittled on the back porch.

The sweet orange starts gossamer light, then it hits the gas: the citrus becomes more tangy, touching blood orange, fizzy sweeties become taffy candy, then sherbet.

Eventually pacified, it becomes milky and sweet, with milk chocolate melting on the tongue.

An old-style whisky that harkens back to a time when Scotland wasn’t sliced and diced by region, but defined by style.

This is meaty with a capital M, with a rich, oily, deep character.

On the palate it’s big and beautiful, with salt, oyster shell, honey, roasted green pepper, smoke, dried fruit, beef jerky, leather, and oak.

Earthy peat smoke dances throughout, giving support but never stealing focus.

This single cask bottling was distilled in December 1995 and matured in a refill hogshead (#258).

Warm, sweet biscuit notes on the nose, plus almonds and tangerines.

Long in the finish, with spicy licorice, plain chocolate, and light tannins.

The nose is pleasingly floral, with soft spice, malt, heather in bloom, and even a suggestion of violets.

Well textured on the palate, oily and nutty, with tropical fruits, honey, milk chocolate, vanilla, and malt.

The finish is lengthy, with a hint of citrus and warming spices.

There are heavy florals — think lilies and stewed white fruit, and just-overripe banana — but this is given a mysterious extra heft by an underpinning of a light meatiness, accompanied by a tiny lift of (good) sulfur.

The palate is, unsurprisingly, thick and creamy with huge fruit that fills the mouth.

A highly physical, old-style Speyside dram with classic distillery character.

This veteran expression was fully matured in first-fill sherry butts.

Fragrant on the nose, with black treacle, prunes, raisins, lanolin, bung cloths, and polished oak.

Big stewed fruit and warm leather notes on the palate, soon reeled in by spicy tannic oak, plus licorice and aniseed, though a stubborn dusty fruitiness persists.

Perfumed on the nose, with vanilla, soft leather, lanolin, and lavender.

The finish offers more cocoa powder, black coffee, and licorice-flavored oak.

Initially, the nose is very different than that of the younger Glen Deverons, with brown paper and malt vinegar.

Ultimately, a caramel note reminiscent of the 16 year old (see below).

Rich and waxy on the palate, with dark berry fruits, almonds, vanilla, and treacle.

The medium-length finish offers green berries and a hint of aniseed.

Exclusively available to travelers at World Duty Free Group stores in selected airports throughout the UK and Spain.

A limited edition cask strength blend of four single casks by Alasdair Day released to mark 100 years since the last entry in their blender’s historic cellar book.

The nose has warm caramel, whole orange, and a dry, grassy, and gristy note.

Rich orange envelops the mouth with golden caramel, shortbread, and underlying spices of ginger and pepper.

Very meaty, with a touch of cordite, then dark fruits, wet earth, and autumn woods, cut with spicy licorice and Darjeeling tea.

Water brings down this exuberance, adding iris and whole grain bread.

The palate has typical, full-on Mortlach brawny muscle, with chestnut honey-glazed venison.

Water bringing out sweetness, but without ever losing that glowering core.

An enticing blend of aged single malt and grain whiskies from silent stills, top-dressed with Port Ellen.

The nose has soft fudge, rosehip, and honey lozenges, with a thread of peat sewn through it.

A mouthful exudes lemon sherbet, honey-drizzled melon, and white chocolate, peaking with raspberry and mixed peel before a conclusion of banana-layered banoffee pie.

This 1964 distillate has a nose of rich toffee, weighty oak, allspice, antique hardback books, dried apple, cracker bread, and banana chips.

A fairy tale taste of red apple perfection, as if Snow White polished it on her skirt.

Golden syrup, lime zest, caramel, and vanilla bleed into a conclusion of nutmeg, oak, and apple peel.

Much of Caol Ila’s malt goes into Johnnie Walker blends, so it’s a rare treat to see a cask strength offering.

This release is Caol Ila on steroids, featuring a deeply smoky and meaty nose with bacon, campfire, leather, sea salt, and iodine.

On the palate, the smoky fire continues to burn with intense smoke and salt combined with sweet honey malt.

  An extremely long finish will have you exhaling smoke long after the dram is gone.

Over 40 years old and this seizes your attention with a becoming nose of smoked ham, sweet paprika, and red currant jelly.

It’s extremely fruity with just the right level of tartness to keep it in balance; pomegranate, strawberry laces, crystalized fruits, and a nip of licorice adding to the richness and emerging creaminess before a dry finish of Victoria plums.

This Kickstarter-funded blend is a very savvy and seamless mix of 40% malt and 60% grain whiskies.

Pale gold in color, the nose is inviting, with dried apricot, honey, tangerine, and salt.

Everything from the nose comes together on the palate, which is soft and sweet with the right amount of oak and smoke to balance everything out.

Who'd ever expect such a smart and affable whisky to come from Kickstarter?

Peach, meringue, whole apple, runny honey, vanilla, eucalyptus, and spices that are just about to burn in the pan.

Lively and fresh Highland whisky flavor proffering sweet honey, cooked apple dusted with icing sugar, lime zest, and a supportive lift of vibrant spices before diffusing into sugary squares of Scottish tablet.

Water accentuates the peppermint in the finish and brings out sugary chocolate-mint flavors.

Built between Keith and Dufftown in 1898, but closed at the start of the 30s, Towiemore’s warehouses were still in use until 1993.

Fresh peaches and fragrant florals, rich orange, roasted almond chips, and hazelnut.

Mellow and nutty with a good supple texture; baked peach, dried peel, mango, and light spices, with a candied peel and spice finish.

This dark golden dram was distilled in the same year that the Beatles first played in America.

An aromatic nose of fruit spangles, gentle acetone, clove, eucalyptus, vanilla pods, and tamarind.

Soft, gentle apple flavors with a silky texture; sweet orange, vanilla, ginger, spice, and raspberry.

A finish of Starburst chews, although a soft presence, slowly drying from the oak.

If your glass is half empty, you might overlook this because it is the most expensive single grain Scotch whisky released to date.

If your glass is half full, you will relish sweet toffee popcorn, coconut, fresh fruits, linseed oil, and some spicy and nutty notes.

Makes sense, as South African white maize was heavily used in the production in the early 1970s.

It’s mouth filling, dark and brooding, with plenty of chocolate, oak tannins, char, and layered spice.

A single cask from the distillery’s peated “Port Charlotte” line of whiskies.

Nice honeyed malt and soft caramel base with good viscosity as a bed for tarry peat, licorice stick, freshly-ground pepper, and cocoa, along with a kiss of sauternes, delicate pit fruit, smoked seaweed, and a lingering coastal accent.

This was matured in first-fill sherry, bourbon, French wine, and tempranillo casks.

Initial brine on the nose gives way to malt and orchard fruits, sweet smoke, and buttery malt.

Sweet, medicinal smoke notes on the early palate, then toffee and peaches drying to aniseed and chili.

Distilled in December 2005 using malt peated to a whopping 167 parts per million, this was matured in a mix of bourbon and Grenache Blanc casks.

Old warm leather, rich smoke, developing peaty peach, chocolate-coated toffee, pipe tobacco, and iodine on the powerful nose.

Huge peatiness in the mouth, oily, smoky orchard fruits, developing ginger nuts, and sea salt.

Warming in the finish, with licorice, gunpowder tea, and ashy peat.

One of four Octomore 08 Masterclass releases, this was distilled in 2011 from Islay barley peated to 309 ppm.

Fifty-six percent of the spirit was matured in first-fill bourbon casks, while the remainder was aged in European oak wine casks.

Barbecue smokiness on the nose, with wet peat and citrus fruitiness.

On the palate, earthy peat, full-bodied red wine, and milk chocolate.

Part of anCnoc’s Peaty Collection, Cutter has been distilled from malt peated to 20.5 ppm.

The result is a dram with a nose of ashy peat and medicine cabinets, backed by vanilla and canned apricots.

Sherry finishing influences, from leather satchel, maraschino cherry, floral blossoms, and deep orange notes to a pinch of Chinese Five Spice and buttered ginger loaf.

Medium bodied, with a malt content of 75%, it riffs around an orange theme, at times quite sharp, with pith, some bitter grapefruit, more ginger, and herbal strands.

Lively spices flicker across the tongue throughout the long finish as the citrus seeps away.

One hundred ten years after the Nimrod expedition, blender Richard Paterson’s adventurous marriage of over 20 Highland malts brings fresh green fruits, manuka honey, vanilla, banana muffin, cantaloupe, fresh herbs, spice, and a wisp of smoke.

Refreshing palate of green melon, light honey, vanilla, cinnamon, cooked apple, and gooseberry, becoming sour.

More complexity on the finish: spice, smoke, cooked fruits, and chalky Sweethearts candies.

A rare old single grain whisky from Scotland’s most northern grain distillery.

The nose brings together varnished oak, clove, dried orange peel, and molasses.

On the palate, an unexpectedly lush mouthfeel supports a flavorful combination of citrus, molasses, and varnished oak.

This single grain has depth and character that’s completely uncommon to the category, tasting a lot more like an aged rum.

A long, acidic, slightly sour, dry, and spicy finish rounds out a unique and intriguing whisky.

Dry peats tossed on a driftwood fire with coastal aromas of sun-scorched seaweed beside high tide rock pools comprise this refined dram.

A momentary glimpse of lighter lemon, lime, and pineapple is quickly snuffed out by the full strength assault.

There’s a dense barrage of peat moss, worn leather, and cocoa at the death.

Possibly the highest ABV that Compass Box has ever given us. £120

This radiant, refreshing whisky offers creamy fudge, light vanilla, fresh apple, peach, and biscuit notes on the nose, demonstrating the generosity of the American oak.

In the mouth, it’s luscious, balanced, and mouth-coating, with sweet honey, lemon peel, lime zest, and aromatic spices, fattening out briefly before becoming soft as suede, riffing on vanilla, melon, and lemon biscuits.

Just as complex as Johnnie Walker Gold, but fuller and more richly textured.

(Not surprising, given that there are no grain whiskies in Johnnie Walker Green.)

You’ll find creamy toffee and nougat at its core, which is then layered with notes of vanilla, mint, fresh brine, and even a hint of mustard seed.

A zeitgeist Johnnie Walker fine-tuned for the American palate, this blend has a moreish nose of cinnamon, cocoa, and the toasted coconut of macaroons, mingled with strands of smoke, dried walnut, nutmeg, and an array of spicy rye anchored by a concentrated line of vanilla.

It’s elegant, dry, and smooth with vanilla, cinnamon, coconut, and flashes of spice.

It’s fabulous sipped straight up but keep walking to the finish.

Blender Aimée Gibson’s experimental batch 7 is designed as a sherry finished Black Label.

Beautifully smoky, with dried fruits, charred oak, wood spices, vanilla, cocoa, and bonfire smoke.

Toffee flavors, with thick smoke, red fruits, orange, raisin, oak spice, gingerbread, marshmallow, strawberry jam, and dark marmalade.

Dry finish with bitter peels, dark chocolate, and some feisty spices.

In comparison, regular Black Label is silkier, more integrated, and more peppery.

On the palate, flavors are nicely balanced and harmoniously interwoven.

Gently sweet toffee notes up front gradually yield to drier notes on the finish, with soft, delicate fruit flavors throughout.

A straightforward proposition of honey, vanilla sponge cake, barley notes, hints of apple, fresh banana, melon, and bundles of dry straw.

It’s a sweetheart: soft vanilla fudge, heather honey, banana-topped banoffee pie, fudge, vanilla sandwich cookies, barley sugar, and lemon peel, with hardly any spice in the early phase.

The finish has a snag of pepper at the end, but this is gorgeously tasty, with smooth vanilla fudge all the way.

Maraschino cherries, red currant, oak bark, and wet slate on the nose after 6 months of finishing.

Light, clean opening with cherry and strawberry; a little fig and raisin bring depth.

Hints of clove and aniseed dart about, then more oak swells up, though the red fruity sweetness stays in control.

A smooth finish of fruit chews, with those spices burning brightly deep in the back of the throat.

Soft, creamy, and elegant, with honeyed malt, custard, subtle butterscotch, and delicate fruit (orange, peach) peppered with spice (powdered vanilla, nutmeg).

A’bunadh is matured entirely in Spanish oak oloroso butts, non-chill filtered, and bottled at cask strength.

This edition is very rich, with dark berry notes on the nose, hazelnuts, caramel, cinnamon, and orange fondant creams.

The palate is full and supple, with polished oak, honey, new leather, raisins, prunes, and a hint of cloves.

Very long in the finish, with plain chocolate, black pepper, fruity spices, and oak.

Identifiably richer, fuller, and smokier on the nose when compared to other young Ardbegs.

While still prominent, there’s slightly less brine and seaweed, more earthiness, tar, soot, espresso, tobacco, grass, and chocolate fudge.

It starts out like a “slightly more gutsy than normal” cask strength, young Ardbeg (e.g., Renaissance) and, if you go into this experience expecting to be totally blown away by peat, tar, and smoke, you might feel a bit under-challenged initially.

But the peat eventually builds to a powerful, lava-like crescendo and you realize that this is no ordinary Ardbeg.

The length of the finish is seemingly endless; bold and warming.

Through all this, there’s a soft underbelly of ripe barley and a vanilla sweetness to balance at least some of the tar, heat, and smoke -- something I admire in many Ardbegs.

Bottom line: It’s an interesting, entertaining, and eye-opening experience.

But, like a whisky that shows just a bit too much sherry or oak, I think the extra peat, to a degree, masks the subtle complexities I admire in some other, lesser-peated Ardbegs, which is the only thing keeping me from scoring this whisky in the 90s.

All smoky whisky enthusiasts should endeavor to try this at least once.

Very bold aroma of toffee, dark chocolate, diesel fuel-soaked soil, smoldering campfire, coal tar, clove, leather, fig, and dark berried fruit.

More of the same on the palate, with seaweed, smoked haddock, and cough drops emerging towards the finish.

My only criticism: it comes across a little green on the finish, which keeps me from scoring it in the 90s.

Still, it’s pretty impressive considering how young some of the whiskies in it are.

If you like your Islay whiskies young and brooding, this one’s for you.

That’s fine by me, as annually we can enjoy delights such as this bold expression that belts you in the nose with coal tar and soot before bay rum emerges, lightening slightly into lime and hot green bracken.

A growly bugger that lurches toward the shore and then spins back to the laurel bushes inland.

A touch of damp dunnage, some Ardbeggian soot, and plenty of jalapeño-style heat.

Shows maturity and depth of character, with just-dead bonfire, ointment, and a sweetness, which here is like honeycomb.

Water makes it bolder, with deeper smoke, while the palate has sweet wood, balanced (cigar-accented) smoke, and layers of salt, angelica, and plum.

Not an unpeated Ardbeg, but a new initiative to raise money for the Kildalton Project which supports community projects in south Islay.

Smoke, but also real sweetness: hothouse peaches, mezcal, smoked oyster, sphagnum moss, a huge hit of vetiver, and coal tar.

The smoke flies to the throat before fogging forward, while the sweet core (with added raspberry and cream, and mint) moves to the back.

Distilled at a time when the future of the distillery looked bleak.

It is non-chill filtered and mildly herbal on the nose, with soft peat, muted iodine, and a sprinkling of pepper, plus warm leather.

The palate is initially peppery, then vanilla and green apples emerge, along with aniseed and rich peat.

If I had to back one of the protagonists in Douglas Laing’s latest Duel of the Phial, my money would be squarely on the Ardbeg.

The nose delights with oils oozing from the chestnut flesh of a grilled kipper, coiled rope on a trawler’s deck, and hot pressed asphalt, with a gentle background note of roasted peanut and millionaire’s shortbread.

Medium texture: lemon and butterscotch, delicious fruitiness, and spearmint on the mid-palate.

The Devil’s Punch Bowl embraces whisky from a total of 27 casks.

These are seventeen oloroso sherry hogsheads (from 1997 and ’98), six standard bourbon barrels (2002), and four peated bourbon casks (2004).

Robust and fruity on the palate, with more dark berries, plain chocolate, a suggestion of vanilla, and black pepper.

Long and drying in the earthy, mildly smoky finish, with aniseed and licorice.

The Millennium Casks is a non-chill filtered vatting of 45 Arran casks filled on December 31, 1999 and January 1, 2000; 35 bourbon barrels and 10 sherry hogsheads.

A spicy, floral nose with sherry, honey, coconut ice, orange, fudge, and ultimately raisin notes.

Smooth and luscious on the palate, with apple pie and custard, plus a sprinkling of cinnamon.

Long and spicy in the finish, with oranges, a hint of black pepper, licorice, and drying oak.

As Arran continues on its trajectory toward introducing an 18 year old expression, just 9,000 bottles of sherry cask-matured 17 year old have been released.

Sweet and fruity on the nose, with ripe pineapples, green apples, malt, and a hint of licorice.

Mild spice and hedgerow fruitiness in the slightly drying, lengthy finish.

The third and final expression in Arran’s Devil’s Punchbowl trilogy of limited releases is a multi-age bottling, matured in eight oloroso sherry butts, eight French oak barriques, and five bourbon barrels.

Figs, dates, citrus fruits, and honey on the nose, with developing savory notes.

Silky sherry, lively cinnamon, and red berries on the palate, with a hint of wood smoke.

This expression is the culmination of Arran’s trilogy of 16, 17, and 18 year old releases, matured in sherry hogsheads.

Viscous and full-bodied on the palate, with fruit spices, vanilla, sweet sherry, orange marmalade, and finally raisins.

Following the 2015 limited edition release of 18 year old Arran single malt, an 18 year old has now been added to the core range.

The nose is bright with freshly-squeezed orange and lemon juices, honey, and vanilla fudge, plus a fleeting menthol note.

The early palate mirrors the fresh fruit-laden nose, with developing ginger, honey, malt, and milk chocolate.

Slowly drying in the finish, with plain chocolate, licorice, and charred oak.

This 2017 edition is non-chill filtered and finished in Amarone dry Italian red wine casks.

Slightly perfumed on the nose, with a suggestion of madeira, plus malt and ripe pears.

Viscous in the mouth; earthy, with plum and dry blackcurrant, black coffee, and plain chocolate, balanced by notes of honey.

Vintage Series is this expression, distilled on October 22, 1979 and matured in first-fill oloroso sherry butts for 32 years.

Sweet on the nose, with furniture polish, digestive biscuits, cinnamon, and a faint whiff of old leather.

Big tropical fruit notes open the palate, soon turning to smoky blackcurrants, tea, and rich fruit loaf.

The finish is spicy, featuring black pepper, tobacco, dark berries, and plain chocolate.

The 2000 vintage of Balblair is intended to replace the well-regarded 1997 variant.

Matured in first-fill American oak, this very drinkable expression represents good value for the money.

A pretty peach and pineapple nose, with coconut and honeyed vanilla.

Relatively light-bodied, sweet, with lively spice, ginger, and youthful oak on the relatively complex palate.

Fudge in the finish, and a contrasting hint of dark chocolate at the last.

This veteran Balblair was distilled on February 7, 1969 using barley malted on site and coal-fired stills.

Opens with slight saltiness on the nose, almost ozone, then lemons and pine, and finally, vanilla fudge.

Overt citrus notes on the palate, with aniseed, some oak, brittle toffee, and a smokiness not found in younger Balblairs.

The finish is long and discreetly spicy, notably cinnamon and black pepper.

The oldest of Bablair’s current core bottlings was distilled in 1990, and after maturing for 21 years in bourbon casks it was transferred to oloroso sherry butts for a further 2 years prior to bottling.

Citrus fruits, furniture polish, cloves, cinnamon, and parma violets on the nose.

A silky mouthfeel, spicy, with dark berries, dates, and rich sherry.

Layers of sweetness (the characteristic Balvenie honey, along with vanilla fudge, nougat, and rich toffee) peppered with dried spice and a hint of tropical fruit (papaya, guava, tangerine).

I’ve been pushing for Speyside distilleries to bump up the peating levels of their malt they use for a long time because a majority of the spirits are big enough to handle the peat smoke, and this whisky proves my point.

The tarry, peat smoke and bacon-like notes are a delight, and they are balanced nicely by a honey and apple pie sweetness.

Spanish olives in brine, dark chocolate, golden raisin, and subtle spice round out the palate nicely.

So nice of the previous owners of this distillery to experiment with higher peating levels decades ago.

A heavily peated BenRiach that has been finished in a tawny port pipe.

The nose is akin to cherries, sloes, and blueberries soaked in alcohol.

The peatiness manifests itself as a smoky herbal note and shows most on the palate, but is never too dominant.

Remember those remarkable 20+ year old BenRiachs that appeared when the distillery reopened which we thought were gone forever?

This new and keenly priced arrival has sweet malt on the nose, followed by mango, orange blossom honey, and Portuguese custard tarts.

It needs a little water to calm the alcohol and help to spread an already thick texture along the tongue.

This limited edition bottling is non-chill filtered and initially matured in bourbon barrels before an unspecified period of finishing in sweet Moscatel fortified wine casks from Spain and Portugal.

Sweet grapes, dates, cinnamon, salted butter, wax polish, and printer’s ink on the nose.

Viscous on the palate, with ripe plums, honey, plain chocolate, white pepper, and worn leather.

BenRiach’s latest release was matured in a combination of four diverse cask types: bourbon, virgin oak, Pedro Ximénez sherry, and red wine.

Peaches, Brazil nuts, raisins, dates, and more chocolate on the palate, with red berries in the background.

This includes whisky distilled in 2006, 2007, and 2008, and matured in a mixture of bourbon, oloroso, and virgin oak casks.

Honey, apple blossom, ginger, and nutmeg on the nose, which then exhibits damp tweed, and finally, hot butter.

Sweet on the full palate, with milk chocolate, honey, ripe peaches, almonds, vanilla, and caramel.

Mouthwatering fruity notes (lemon, lime, tangerine, passion fruit) marry well with notes of fresh-cut grass, vanilla, and honey.

When I drink a Lowland whisky this good, I am saddened by all of the Lowland distilleries that have gone silent over the past 25 years, knowing what we have lost.

Exotic tropical fruit aromas (citrus, melon, coconut), with interwoven notes of almonds, pear, honey, and subtle peat smoke.

On the palate, the whisky begins sweet (especially honey), followed by a basket of exotic fruit and nuts similar to its aroma, becoming drier and distantly smoky on the finish.

This Bowmore Fino Cask, a whisky which has aged very well indeed, is the first of three limited edition 1964 vintage Bowmore whiskies to be released over the next year.

The two to follow in 2003 have been aged in bourbon oak and oloros sherry casks.

Intriguing aromas of sweet plum, grapes, citrus, peat smoke, seaweed, and brine.

Flavors of ripe fruit (plums, grapes, citrus), followed by a burst of more traditional Bowmore flavors (peat smoke, brine, seaweed), finishing with lingering notes of prunes, dates, baker’s chocolate, and licorice.

While there is no age statement, this whisky was aged for 12 years in bourbon barrels, followed by an additional 18 months in ruby port casks.

I believe it is the first distillery bottling to marry port with the traditional flavors of an Islay whisky.

Because of this, it is best to keep an open mind when trying this whisky, perhaps even having more than one go at it before rendering a verdict.

Aromas of Islay peat smoke, wine fruit, and background floral and spice notes.

Flavors reveal more of what the aroma suggests-peat smoke, fruit, and floral/spice notes-with a balancing oak and subtle sea salt and seaweed.

The peat smoke particularly comes in on the finish, lest one forgets where Bowmore hails from.

Availability: only 480 bottles for the entire United States, with the remainder of the 12,000 bottles going to Duty Free.

There is no age statement on the label, but this whisky has been aged for 12 years in traditional bourbon and sherry barrels, and then finished off for 18 months in Bordeaux (Claret) wine casks.

The wine fruit certainly is evident and, like the Glenmorangie Claret Wood Finish offered a year or so ago, will appeal to those with an open mind and willingness to accept new flavors in whisky.

I believe it's the first smoky whisky that attempts to marry these flavors with claret fruitiness.

Aromas of peat smoke (but more subdued than many Bowmore whiskies in their teens), toasted oak, citrus fruit, vanilla, and a hint of the sea.

Its flavors are similar, which express themselves in a very mature manner-oak flavors are more dominant than other components.

Still, there is an emerging brine freshness that keeps the whisky from becoming tired and dull.

Aromas of peat smoke, damp earth, exotic pepper, vanilla, and fruit.

The whisky begins sweet up front, ultimately turning pleasingly dry towards the finish.

In between you'll enjoy flavors of peat smoke, vanilla, spicy pepper, and delicately honeyed malt, with just a hint of the sea.

What I like most about this whisky is its impeccable balance-between youth and maturity, sweetness and dryness-with just the right amount of peat smoke to declare its Islay roots without smothering its other flavors.

A very solid and sound Bowmore with saline notes, some dried hot pepper, and masses of menthol, which give a buzzy, nose-cleaning effect.

The palate is quite thick and shows sweetness and a slow release of soft fruit, with a tingle of salt.

The smoke slowly increases until it concentrates on the back palate, giving an effect like burning pine logs on the beach.

An excellent example of a younger Bruichladdich, and an interesting contrast to the Duncan Taylor expression reviewed above.

Honey and vanilla notes accentuate a fresh maltiness, with underlying marshmallow, grass and hay.

The whisky finishes nicely rounded, pleasingly dry and salty, with a hint of seaweed.

A mélange of casks and techniques that only Jim McEwan knows about.

The fourth iteration of his Black Art manages to mix mature notes of beeswax-burnished church pews, a sprinkling of rose water, dried mango, rosehip syrup, and potpourri.

The palate opens to Parma violets, underpinned with light lavender, where fleshiness mingles with the exotic notes of manuka honey, pomegranate, apricot pits, and dried lemon.

Bere is an ancient strain of barley which is stubbornly difficult to grow and mash.

For this, Bruichladdich has gone to a specialist farm on Orkney.

The nose is intriguingly aromatic, sweet and slightly corn-like, with a sweet nuttiness behind.

It becomes very floral (night-scented stocks) with white currant, lemon sherbet, and a lift of tangerine before water brings out sakura (cherry blossom) syrup and bread.

Clean and fresh on the early nose; crisp green apples, vanilla, and floral notes, with just a hint of maritime influence in the background.

Smooth on the palate, with spicy pear, honey, and ripe peaches; soon quite drying.

The floral finish lingers, with spicy honey, drying spices, and ultimately a hint of smoke.

There have been several lovely older expressions of Bunnahabhain over the past decade, and this is one of them.

The vanilla cream and toffee nuttiness is balanced perfectly by polished oak, bright fruit (apricot, sultana, cherry pits), and subtle anise.

All the maturity of an older whisky without the tired, dominating oak.

That helped — especially on the palate — with greater texture and more well-defined flavors.

But the flavors are essentially the same: nutty, toffee, light molasses, vanilla fudge, with delicate fruit (citrus, dark berries) and a hint of brine.

Extra points for versatility — this whisky will accommodate many moods and situations.

Nice interplay between soothing malty sweetness and honest “naked” Caol Ila notes (in the sense that all the classic Caol Ila flavors are exposed-leafy smoke, tarry rope, salt & pepper spice, seaweed, and olive).

An evolving whisky, with a phenolic, briny crescendo that lingers.

Aromas and flavors of peat smoke, seaweed, lemon grass, olives, and green peppercorns.

Caol Ila is an Islay dram that Laphroaig, Lagavulin, and Bowmore fans must become acquainted with.

Although distllery bottlings are not available here in the U.S., many independent bottlers offer it.

The cognac wood influence might dominate other whiskies, but the Coal Ila is big enough for challenge.

If anything, it seems to contribute a silky elegance to what would otherwise be a brooding, bare-knuckled whisky;.

Notes of germinating barley, vanilla cream, grape preserve, and peat bonfire, with a salty, smoky finish.

Soft and gentle (for Caol Ila, that is), thanks to the 25 years of aging.

Plenty of creamy vanilla and honey to go with the malty foundation, along with coal tar, licorice root, and olive, with a hint of brine, juniper, unsweetened dark chocolate, and tobacco (cigars in a humidor?).

Funny to think how recently Caol Ila was an Islay giant that was kept pretty much under wraps by its owner.

These days it has cemented its reputation as the island’s Mr. Consistent.

This version shows its character the best, a nose that mixes seashore and grass with a distinct hint of smoked bacon.

The peatiness isn’t dominant, but flows throughout the palate, scenting, lifting, and subtly changing the mix.

There’s no age statement, but what you get is a mix of the fresh and the mature: a vibrant attack with fresh Victoria plum, grapes, and a hint of oiliness.

Give it time and the sensation is like afternoon tea at your auntie’s, with thickly-buttered scones dripping with honey or pineapple jam.

The palate is equally sweet and gentle, and only needs a little drop of water to reveal light spice.

Aged in first-fill American oak, this shows a real brightness, crisp fruit, and some smoke—it’s not really unpeated—and wet grass, before moving into pear and tarragon.

The palate is intense, with a hay note, then an almost fino sherry-like note before sashimi emerges.

Reduced, there’s more of a soft flow, though there’s still a touch of green olive minerality.

Cragganmore is a deep malt but its richness is often obscured by its fruity sweetness.

The black currant is now fully fruited and acts as a flavor bridge while the meatiness that sits underneath and often unseen is revealed.

An inviting and complex nose of honey, orchard fruits, apple blossom, rosewater, and subtle cinnamon.

Rich and creamy in the mouth, with initially intensely sweet fruit and spice notes, followed by ginger, toffee, and vanilla.

Aromas of citrus fruit (lemons, tangerines) and a pot pourri of spices-very fragrant.

Appetizing flavors of citrus fruit, exotic spices, along with a slightly briny, peppery finish.

Primary maturation took place in an ex-bourbon cask, then from 2006 in a cask sourced from the vineyard of Chateau Haut Marbuzet, previously used to hold Cabernet Sauvignon.

A final three years were spent in a newly-emptied bourbon barrel.

Black cherries, raisins, lots of lively spice, and a red wine ‘edge’ in the mouth.

After initial maturation in American white oak, this 1991 expression was filled into a 15 year old Lepanto brandy cask from Gonzales Byass in May 2003, ultimately being re-racked into a fresh ‘distillery run’ bourbon barrel in August 2009.

Caramel and white chocolate on the nose, malt, fudge, cinnamon, and nutmeg, then burnt treacle and hot brandy.

Matured in European oak butts, this 1998 single malt has a nose of soft toffee, vanilla, and orchard fruits.

The palate is very full and sweet, even sugary, with baked apples, peaches in cream, and cinnamon.

Medium to long in the finish, with fruity oak, lingering ginger, and pepper.

Incredibly rich aroma and flavors of toffee, fudge, spice cake, ripe fruit, burnished leather, and oak.

The nose offers tinned peaches, fresh ginger, and a slightly herbal note.

The palate is voluptuous, with vanilla, malt, vigorous spices, and white chocolate.

Soothing vanilla cream, with additional notes of spice cake, coconut marshmallow, tiramisu, fresh cut grass, and a hint of evergreen.

The nose is earthy, with damp herbaceous borders, quite acrid smoke, and spicy cranberries.

Fresh, juicy red berries on the palate, with background peat smoke becoming ashy, with rich red wine notes.

The red wine persists in the finish, accompanied by prickly black pepper.

It is very complex, with notes of burnished leather, roasted nuts, fruit cake, toffee apples, sultana, damp peat, and sappy oak.

A very soothing whisky, with the depth and maturity one hopes for in a whisky this old.

Amber in color and again some fresh fruitiness, this time mixed with a little cereal.

The same dry grass you get on the 1981, but here there’s a nutty, biscuity edge above that meaty solidity.

The palate shows slight oiliness and roasted red pepper, that changes into blackberry as it opens.

Needs roughly the same amount of water to open fully, which also brings out chamois leather and then barley sugar sweets.

Although from a refill, the mahogany color suggests a short previous use.

Some nose burn, with a mature edge of leather and dark chocolate.

Here’s Glenfarclas in a darker guise, with raisin and a savory aspect; think roast pheasant and walnuts, lamb and mint sauce.

The palate is big, thick, and sweet with lots of extract, but also Turkish delight, sultana, and prune.

While sherried, it’s not in any way overcooked; the tannins are balanced, the sweetness massive.

Unusually named—it refers to the price paid for the distillery—here is Glenfarclas in slightly lighter guise than usual.

Fresh and clean at the start, with hints of sweet nut and soft cooked fruits; subtly sherried elements then begin to come through.

The palate is balanced, with supple tannins and a dark depth to the mid-palate.

Soothing and seamless on the nose and palate with chewy toffee, molasses, nougat, almond butter, vanilla fudge, cinnamon spice, and nutmeg, along with gentle tobacco notes emerging later on the palate.

A vatting of different ages of Glenfiddich (the youngest being 14 years old) aged in American oak, then married in virgin American oak casks on which folk from the States had written their hopes and dreams…Awww!

, it’s all pear juice, crème brûlée, fudge, cool mint, and dessert apple.

Surprisingly smoky aroma balanced nicely with mature oak notes, roasted nuts, tobacco, and malty sweetness in the background.

Delicious flavors of toasted oak, roasted nuts, smoke, leather, and malt.

Distilled at Glen Garioch when peated barley was still being used, this 1991 vintage is quite reticent on the nose, considering its strength.

Fresh fruits and a sherbet ‘zing’ on the palate, with a suggestion of treacle.

The ‘zing’ — now ginger — lasts to the end of the medium-length finish, with advancing, discreet oak.

A lovely example of what not chill-filtering can do for a whisky.

Very straightforward on the surface (no surprises), but with vibrant, well-defined flavors and a comforting creamy texture on the palate.

Bright fruit defines this whisky (lime, kiwi, ripe melon, sultana, fresh peach), accompanied by honeyed malt, heather, and a hint of spice and smoke.

This limited edition release of Glen Garioch is the first from the Aberdeenshire distillery to have been matured entirely in oloroso sherry casks.

Just 1,000 cases of the 14 year old expression are available globally.

Old leather, slightly earthy, sultanas, white pepper, and a hint of lemon pith on the nose.

The palate is big and bold, with more pepper, plus cinnamon caramel, orange, and abundant sherry.

Enduring spice, licorice, and slightly smoky raisins in the finish.

The Massandra winery, which supplies casks for Glenglassaugh’s Massandra Connection bottlings, is the oldest in Crimea, and reputedly produced Tsar Alexander III’s favorite wines.

The 1973 distillation, which has been finished in sherry casks, has a nose of sultanas, cinnamon, sweet grass, and herbal notes in the background.

Mouth-coating, with sweet, spicy tropical fruit notes and oloroso.

Slowly drying, with bitter orange and mild tannins at the close.

This 26 year old single cask Glengoyne was matured in a first-fill European oak sherry butt that yielded 339 bottles.

It offers a nose of sultanas, figs, and vanilla, plus white pepper and a hint of linseed.

Succulent in the mouth, the palate yields sweet sherry, honey, and contrasting lemon juice and pepper.

The finish is lengthy, but dries rapidly, with lively pepper, oak tannins, and a final fatty note.

If Cragganmore is sometimes overlooked, then what of this poor Lowlander whose qualities are consistently overlooked?

Again, here we have a pale color suggesting use of refill casks, but whereas Cragganmore was reticent to the point of being mute, this is expressive and lively.

The nose, with intense floral notes of lilac blossom, freesia, and chamomile, is a revelation.

These are backed with a thick, unsalted butter note that suggests that the cask might not have been as quiet as first imagined.

Give it time, and out come boiled sweets and a fresh green note, like a just-whittled stick.

A hint of wheat chaff and fragrant grasses brings to mind lying in a summer meadow watching the dust motes dance in the sunshine.

The mouth is sweet and lemon-accented with a pickup of a pleasant chalkiness on the nose that gives it the suggestion of a fino sherry or Vin Jaune.

I like its energy, and feel that the addition of water reduces its vibrancy, so for drinking purposes I’d have a glass of ice cold water on the side.

All in all impressive, with just a hint of soap on the finish taking it below the 90 mark.

Style: Speyside single malt scotch Color: Amber Aroma: Rich and rather full for Glenlivet, with nuts and fruit, drenched with layers of toffee and caramel.

Palate: Rich and enveloping-almost chewy-with notes of toffee and caramel up front.

Delicate fruit, nuts and spice emerge mid-palate, adding complexity, becoming dry with a long spicy finish 

Quite refined too, with notes of vanilla, peaches and flowering currant.

The whisky is very soft on the palate, delicate and almost bashful at times.

Indeed, it may take a couple of dates with this whisky for it to fully to reveal itself.

The whisky finishes toasty, with a pleasing cereal grain maltiness.

Some whiskies are great after dinner; others make wonderful pre-dinner drams.

According to Glenlivet’s whisky maker Jim Cryle, Archive is now being bottled in smaller batches, allowing them to be more selective in the casks used to improve its quality and flavor.

Along with Archive’s signature creamy toffee notes, I’m picking up beautiful floral, vanilla, and fruity notes (peaches, pineapple, coconut) on the nose and palate, with subtler nutty, anise threads throughout.

Lovely bouquet of dried citrus fruit, honeyed apricot and plum, complemented by exotic wood spice, malty vanilla, and a hint of mint and anise.

Similar follow-through on the palate, with the sweeter notes up front, full fruit impact mid

The whisky evolves on the palate and is very impressive, with its only blemish being a bit too dry and oaky on the finish.

This whisky fits the profile of other extra-matured Glenlivet whiskies I’ve tasted.

Notes of coconut and other assorted tropical fruit, old rum, caramel custard, shortbread cookies, vanilla malt, and a hint of cotton candy.

A soothing, rather sweet whisky (which is quite surprising for its age).

For those of you drinking whisky long enough, it was a Glenmorangie Tain L’Hermitage 1978 Vintage that kick-started this whole exotic finish trend by Glenmorangie about 10 years ago.

That one wasn’t sold here in the U.S., but this one is (although this one costs about four times as much as the original one did when it was released).

Both were racked in used bourbon barrels before being finished in Hermitage red wine casks from northern Rhone.

The best of these limited release Glenmorangies, like the Fino Sherry Finish expression several years ago, add complexity and intrigue without masking Glenmorangie’s lovely subtle complexity.

This one does a pretty good job of it, although there’s a lot of fruit here (an obvious contribution of the wine).

Complex fruit, with notes of plum, raspberry, nectarine, blueberries, and a hint of lemon.

Towards the finish, the whisky becomes nicely dry with oak lingering on the palate.

When compared to the 10 year old, this one’s richer, with darker fruit and more caramelized sweet notes, paired with accentuated dried wood spice, while the 10 year old is more vibrant and floral.

Finished (extra-matured, as they are now saying) in Sauternes casks.

Beautiful sweet notes of honeycomb, sultana, apple pie, and white chocolate balanced by peach, coconut, and pineapple.

The sweetness is not cloying, nor does it dominate the flavor profile.

Milsean is the latest Private Edition release from Glenmorangie.

After initial bourbon barrel maturation, the whisky spent several years in heavily-toasted Portuguese red wine casks.

Smooth and rounded on the palate with a big fruit hit that becomes more citric in time, plus lively oak spices.

The ninth release in Glenmorangie’s Private Edition series was matured fully in American oak barrels that previously contained rye whiskey.

A reticent early nose: melon and a hint of lemon, then warm, oily cereal notes and honey develop.

Initially fruity on the palate, with ripe banana, then slightly earthy, with nutty spice and cocoa powder.

Zesty spices in the finish, drinking chocolate, and youthful oak.

It's nice to see Gordon & MacPhail bottlings at strengths higher than 40%, and it makes this already hefty whisky even more so.

It is fragrant (with subtle heather notes), rich and malty (and quite thick in texture), with notes of honey and vanilla.

Interwoven fruit (sultana, along with subtle lemon and orange) add complexity.

All this sweetness is rounded out nicely with a long, dry, oaky/spicy finish.

Interestingly, this whisky was bottled in 2005, but not released until the end of 2008.

(The brand manager tells me that they wanted to wait until the stocks of the current 1980s vintage (a 1987) were depleted.

It’s fresh, lively, and uncluttered, glowing with bright fruit (mandarin orange, nectarine), lemon meringue pie, and a creamy vanilla sweetness that coats the palate.

A gently dry oak finish with subtle anise and very dark chocolate.

Glenrothes is always this fascinating mix of the malty and the fruity and is one of those drams which needs time in the glass to open.

Given that time, you will be rewarded with date, raisin, some fudge, and some real savory depth before a sprinkling of trail mix and a sweetening into nougat and caramel, spice and chocolate.

A replacement for the old Select Reserve, this is a magnificent Glenrothes and at a great price, so don’t dare moan.

This edition comprises first-fill American oak casks seasoned with dry oloroso sherry.

Significant sherry cask influence early on the nose, with a savory note, rich fruitcake, cherries, malt, and developing vanilla custard.

Supple in the mouth, with honey, berry fruits, and citrus notes.

The finish dries slightly, with cinnamon and a sprinkling of black pepper.

Cask # 328 was filled at Glenturret on December 16, 1986 by stillmen Hugh Malloy and Chic Brock.

Boiled fruit sweets, heather, hazelnuts, old oak, and musty bung-cloths on the nose, plus slight mint.

The palate is rich and fruity, with honey, rum, vanilla fudge, and ginger root.

Spicy milk chocolate and coconut in the lengthy finish, with non-intrusive oak.

A belated addition to Diageo’s Special Releases range for 2011, this offering is from the now-demolished distillery in Stonehaven, which closed in 1985.

Just 1,500 bottles are available, and maturation has taken place in American oak refill casks filled in 1970.

Resin, malt, nutmeg, and wood polish on the nose, with developing vanilla and brittle toffee.

Full in the mouth, slightly oily, and notably fruity, with heather and cinnamon notes.

Soft aromas and flavors of delicate honey, heather, subtle spice, tropical fruit, creamy vanilla, and malt.

Nicely balanced throughout the palate and very clean-this whisky was aged in an excellent cask.

There are no off flavor notes from the wood at all, nor is it too woody on the finish.

Clean and fragrant on the nose, with aromas of dried heather, germinating barley, and white chocolate.

Soft, sweet malt along with honeycomb, crème brulee, and a hint of fruit puree.

The palate is soothingly malty, delivering what the aroma promised (first the sweet notes, then dried heather and spice), with a dry, polished oak finish.

The extra aging adds depth, and the cask was obviously a good one, with no hint of being tired or old.

Fresh, floral aromas (reminiscent of a spring garden), creamy vanilla, honey, heather, subtle fruit, and a hint of toasted oak.

Richly flavored, too, and nicely balanced, with notes that echo the aromas.

In fact, this is one of the most balanced whiskies I've had in quite a while.

A hint of salt, spice, and seaweed on the finish linger on indefinitely.

This whisky is a pure joy to drink and demonstrates why Highland Park is so highly regarded.

The fact that it was aged in a bourbon cask allows this whisky's more subtle notes to be fully appreciated.

This is a recent addition to the portfolio, and has been matured in a mixture of thirteen American oak butts and hogsheads.

Soft fruit and spices feature on the palate, with honey and coconut oil, plus background peat smoke.

Many of the independent  H.P. bottlings are aged in bourbon casks, and, like this one, exhibit creamy vanilla, honeyed malt, and citrus.

I’m also picking up some more subtle heather, brine, coconut, and nougat.

This one is clean on the palate and shows nice balance, with enough dry oak on the finish to counter the whisky’s sweeter notes.

More obviously sherried on the nose than either Sigurd or Ragnvald; buttery, with figs, sultanas, vanilla, a hint of leather, and ripe oranges.

Rich and silky on the complex palate; overt sherry, ginger, and lots of old leather and sweet smoke.

The finish is lengthy, with plain chocolate, wood smoke, figs, and tingling spices.

The latest addition to the Jura range has been matured in American white oak casks before spending three years in Gonzalez Byass oloroso sherry butts.

The mellow nose is lightly oily, with figs, sherry, orange, and a savory note.

Vanilla emerges, along with malt, and finally a hint of cinnamon and parma violets.

Soft and supple on the palate, with more orange, plus cocoa, sultanas, and dates.

The finish is lengthy and features dark chocolate, raisins, aniseed, and subtle spices.

A thick, sweet, weighty Lagavulin -- the kind you eat with a fork.

Interwoven caramel and molasses laced with thumping waxed fruit, dates, burnt walnuts, and peat kiln embers that linger long on the palate.

The classic Laphroaig medicinal, pungent, smoky rush kicks in on the finish and stays in overdrive for a very long time.

Indeed, enjoying Laphroaig young and at a higher strength is the best way to appreciate the distillery’s true character.

Very medicinal and “closed up” neat, but comes alive with a splash of water.

Powerful notes of tar, charcoal, smoked seaweed, and licorice root, mercifully tamed by ripe barley and honeyed malt laced with vanilla.

A very tarry start, like fence posts which have just been treated with creosote.

Add in some smoked fish alongside dried grass, and you have all the requisite elements for a classic Laphroaig.

The palate is massively smoky to start, a real peat bomb, but that eruption recedes, allowing barley and sweetness to come through.

Has requisite density of character with classic notes of freshly-laid tarmac and medicine.

The complexity continues on the tongue, which is very juicy; vanilla-accented but with plenty of seaweed-like smoke that shifts into licorice.

Long, balanced, and thick in the center, with some (smoked) dried thyme on the finish.

This veteran Ledaig release from Tobermory distillery is the oldest to date, having been made in 1972.

Musty old leather, malt, and plum pudding on the slightly earthy, phenolic nose.

In time the leather becomes suppler, with ripe figs and, finally, soot.

Voluptuous in the mouth, with sweet sherry, plain chocolate, and soft spices, plus black pepper, an emerging note of coal.

The finish is very long, with citrus fruit, chili, smoke, and subtle oakiness.

Some of the first peated spirit produced in the late 1990s at Tobermory Distillery has gone into this bottling, which has been finished in marsala wine casks.

The nose yields earthy malt, new leather, printer’s ink, and a final fragrant note.

Big, bright flavors of orchard fruits and sweet peat on the palate, plus black pepper and dessert wine.

From a Speyside distillery whose malt is more commonly found in blends.

An enticing and complex nose balances sweet honey, acidic dried orange, rich walnut, and light smoke.

On the palate these elements come together well with complexity and balance.

Things get spicy in the mid-palate, with black pepper, salt, ginger, and a bump in smoke.

A long finish rounds everything off, showcasing smoke and orange.

Ironically, in both instances, the older whiskies serve up more sherry and fruit.

Both the Longmorn 15 and Bowmore 17 were considered benchmark whiskies, so these changes weren’t without risk.

This new Longmorn shows a mouth-coating maltiness -- Longmorn’s signature characteristic.

Along with this, there’s ripe barley, honeyed fruit (peach, with subtle sultana and pineapple), gently complex nuts (almonds, brazil nuts), and a hint of chocolate-covered coconut.

True Longmorn devotees will still want to purchase a bottle of the 15 year old while they can.

Longmorn may be slightly better known, but it’s still pretty much a cult whisky — with a huge following in Japan, where every whisky bar seems to have multiple expressions.

This bottling shows it in its lushest guise, with masses of caramelized soft fruits, banana, cream toffee, and chocolate.

Immediately identifiably Longmorn: that ridiculous, highly amenable mix of soft fruits, masses of sweet spice, candied peels, coconut, and sticky toffee pudding.

Leans into the mouth with masses of mace, then soft fruits and marzipan develop.

Unctuous, long, and ripe, the wood shows just a little, but the depth and richness holds it in check.

Fragrant, floral aroma, with a potpourri of dried spices, especially vanilla and nutmeg.

Flavors of creamy vanilla and caramel, becoming dry with subtle spices and just a hint of fruit.

Even drier and expressing more of the complex floral and spice notes found in the 15 year old.

However, by the time the whisky reaches mid-palate, the dried fruits, dried spices, and general wood notes become prominent, preventing the whisky from revealing other sides of its usually multi-faceted personality.

It’s still a very fine whisky, but not as good as the 15, regardless of price.

Initially, this is Macallan in effusive Willy Wonka mood, with lots of toffee, chocolate, greengage, and light oiliness.

The aroma thickens with water, and with it a more serious mien: brogues buffed to a high sheen.

The palate is equally rich and layered, with cereal, black cherry, discreet oak.

A complex mix, as befits a gentleman’s dram that every gentleman should have.

It then turns richly nutty-almost chewy-with notes of dried apricot, sultana, and a touch of red currant.

Immediately identifiable as Mortlach, with a pleasant, feral mélange of meat mingled with milk chocolate and gorse.

There is elegant sweetness here, but expressed as a mix of the bittersweet caramelized juices stuck to the bottom of a roasting pan, with honey.

The palate, unsurprisingly, is big, and medium dry, but here as well there’s some sweetness in the form of black fruits.

I really love how the appetizing notes of Pulteney marry with the sweet notes of the sauternes wine cask.

Fresh brine throughout, with honey-drenched melon fruit, pineapple in syrup, citrus, and a hint of cotton candy and lightly toasted marshmallow.

WK209 is named after a steam herring drifter registered in the Caithness port of Wick, where Old Pulteney is distilled.

This limited edition, travel retail exclusive was matured entirely in first fill European oak sherry casks for 8 to 10 years.

Milk chocolate, crème brûlée, old leather, and sherry on the nose, contrasting with brine.

Sherry, dried fruits, black pepper, English mustard, and sea salt on the full palate.

Spicy sherry, heather, and black coffee in the luxurious finish.

One of the last remaining vintages from an Islay distillery which will be missed dearly.

This is obviously from a sherry cask, and the peat smoke, sherry, and oak-aging is married nicely here.

Notes of peat fires, fig, kippers, toffee, vanilla, and dry oak take turns entertaining the palate.

Considering its age, it isn’t excessively oaked, and the Port Ellen character still shines through.

If you’re going to track down a bottle of Port Ellen before they get really difficult to find, this one is worth serious consideration.

An elder Port Ellen, but still showing plenty of Port Ellen character.

It’s chock full of kiln smoke, damp forest, seaweed, charcoal, brine, and tar.

Additional notes of licorice root, kalamata olive, cinnamon, and black pepper, with teasing citrus emerging occasionally.

This, the fifth of TWE’s ongoing Elements bottlings of Islay’s legendary closed distillery, does not disappoint.

The nose is akin to salted chocolate, with a wasabi-like earthiness lurking behind.

Port Ellen’s characteristic flintiness is there in the form of rock-pools and hot sand inside seashells, while the smoke hints at sphagnum moss, marsh gas, and burnt cake.

Matured in refill European oak sherry butts, this year’s Special Release has more weight than many previous expressions and a fascinating smokiness that comes across like a just-lit fire: fire lighter, burning paper, fire grate, and wood smoke.

The more active oak adds walnut skin notes and rich dried fruits before the smoke returns.

2011 saw the first expression of Rosebank appear in Diageo’s annual Special Releases series, and just 5,604 bottles are available worldwide.

The bottling is comprised of whisky matured in refill American oak and refill European oak casks.

Floral and mildly herbal on the nose, with cereal and tropical fruit notes, along with a hint of damp soil.

The palate is somewhat tart, with oranges and pepper, while the finish dries to coffee and spicy oak.

Thick and syrupy on the palate, accentuated with vanilla and shortbread.

You’ll also find pleasing peaches & cream, zingy citrus fruit, along with a hint of nuts, spice, and a pinch of salt on the palate.

Older Springbanks are becoming hard to find, and this one won't disappoint.

It is packed with citrus notes (lemon, orange) often found in whiskies over 30 years old.

Along with them you'll find subtle spice notes (especially cinnamon), red licorice, polished oak, and that signature Springbank fresh brininess, albeit a bit reserved.

This Springbank is not as heavily sherried as some other older bottlings that have come and gone.

If I wanted to be picky, I would like to see more of the Springbank briny zest and freshness here, but, giving its age, it is understandably reserved.

This whisky's best feature is how surprisingly clean, rounded, and polished it is for 33 years old.

Gently sweet (caramel, vanilla cream, kiss of honey), with balancing fruit (lime, kiwi, green grape) and spice (white pepper, brine).

I don’t know what kind of rum cask was used, but it comes across more like sugar cane juice-based rhum agricole than the molasses-based rums.

Even with a refill sherry cask, bright fruit is the main theme to this whisky: strawberry-rhubarb pie, red raspberry preserve, red currant.

But there’s honeyed malt for balance, along with suggestions of
coconut macaroon, marzipan, brine, and glazed ginger to keep things interesting.

A number of ‘Marrying Strength’ variants of 10 year old Springbank have been released, retailing exclusively through the Cadenhead Whisky Shop in Campbeltown.

Brine, new leather, and pipe tobacco on the nose, with developing caramel.

Voluptuous on the palate, balanced, with sweet leather, peaty spices, and apricots.

Long and slowly drying in the finish, with black pepper and rock salt.

Quintessential Springbank, and the best 10 year old sampled to date.

Released in February 2015, this cask strength expression of 17 year old Springbank has been entirely matured in sherry casks.

The nose offers sea spray, blood orange, ginger, and discreet sherry.

The sherry really makes its presence felt on the palate, which is full and slightly oily, with rich fruitcake flavors, soft toffee, coffee, and ripe cherries.

The finish is lengthy, slightly peaty, with more sherry, treacle toffee, and trademark Springbank ozone.

Mature aroma-this is definitely an old whisky -with complex wood spices (cedar, vanilla, mint, caramel) and soft ripe fruit.

Surprisingly balanced on the palate with an incredible depth and maturity.

Its flavors are similar to its aroma, but a soft sweetness compliments the flavors and provides balance.

Not as much a knock-out punch on the finish like the Talisker 10 and 18, but rather more steady intense blows to the abdomen for many rounds.

It is drier than its younger siblings, with less fruit and more of a stony texture, with dried spices and lingering leather notes.

This whisky requires more patience and demands more concentration, but it is still rewarding to the seasoned aficionado (with some extra pocket change).

Warming spice notes (anise, pepper, and salt) provide intrigue and linger on through a warming, spicy finish.

Well rounded, with enough depth on the palate to make up for the lack of punch in younger expressions.

Diageo has introduced this new no age statement variant of Talisker single malt.

The name reflects the distiller’s aspiration to enhance the maritime notes in this expression.

Refill and rejuvenated casks have both contributed to its maturation.

The nose is youthful but rounded, with brine, burning wood embers, vanilla, and honey.

Sweet and spicy on the palate, with cranberries and black currants, while peat smoke is always present, plus black pepper.

Described as the smokiest whisky produced at Talisker, Dark Storm is exclusive to Travel Retail outlets, and maturation has taken place in deeply charred casks.

Rich, fruity spices on the nose, quite citric, with brine and aromatic smoke.

Full, sweet, fruity flavors on the palate, some vanilla, then smoke, licorice, and spice hit home.

A classic Talisker smoke and chili finish, but cranked up a notch or two!

wood.

As a result, you can’t help comparing it to Macallan and while there’s
some resin and warm leather develop, but no sulfur.

Some of the richness is
lost with water, so I’d leave it as is.

Younger Tomintoul whiskies are fairly straightforward, unassuming whiskies.

Moreover, this whisky and its predecessor, the 27 year old, are surprisingly delicate and nimble for their age.

This is an elegant whisky, with a toffee foundation, creamy vanilla, nougat, light summer fruits, a kiss of molasses, and gentle spice (cinnamon, mocha).

Tomatin released this 28 year old expression under its Cù Bòcan label.

This cask strength variant was matured in refill hogsheads and refill sherry butts that previously contained heavily-peated Islay single malt.

The nose is sweet and fruity, with apples and pears, background vanilla, and sweet, light smoke.

The palate is voluptuous and sherry-sweet, with chili peppers and subtle, earthy peat smoke.

The finish is slowly drying, with persistent spice, nuts, and smoke.

This bottling of Tullibardine was distilled in November 1989 and has been matured in a refill sherry butt.

Initially, damp earth on the nose, sweetening to milk chocolate-covered fudge and vanilla, along with hazelnuts.

Mosstowie was a limited production using Lomond stills for a brief time at the Miltonduff distillery.

Very pale in color for a 30 year old whisky, and creamy on the palate.

Bright fruit (apricot, lemon, sultana) and vanilla are the main flavors, with more subtle grass and hay notes.

The first Diageo Special Releases Oban to be released since 2004 has been matured in rejuvenated American oak and second-fill bodega casks.

Tinned peaches, ginger, caramel, and newly-sawn wood on the nose, with an accompanying marine note.

Syrupy in the mouth, very sweet and spicy, with nutmeg, cinnamon, and baked apple.

Spicy in the drying finish, with ginger to the fore, plus more sea salt.

Cutty Sark master blender Kirsteen Campbell has hit the ground running and is playing a leading role in the revival of this iconic blend.

The nose is nuanced and light, with orange jelly and citrus juice; the palate is sophisticated, fruity, perfectly balanced, rounded, and gentle, with a high-percentage malt content evident in the mix.

Cutty Sark lost its way in recent years; expect that to change soon.

Its owners have plans to return it to glory (and to include a 30 year old among its expressions — you read it here first).

For the time being — if you can find it — this 18 year old is a sublime mix of soft plum and peach, sweet, pure grain, easy-drinking vanilla, and a deft oakiness all delivered in gentle and harmonious fashion.

Blended whiskies have taken a sexy turn for the better, and there have been some excellent attempts to innovate.

Indeed, a gap has opened up between main label blends and this sort of thing, which is particularly brave because a world-class brand has let amateurs loose on it.

That said, this is massive, with big earthy spice, peat, and sour fruits.

There's some youthful sappiness in the mix, too, but it's not detrimental.

This cask strength, 29 year old 1982 expression in the Wemyss Malts range is the company’s first bottling of a single malt distilled at the Northern Highland distillery of Teaninich.

The insistently fruity nose features overripe pears, heather in bloom, soft fudge, salted popcorn, cinnamon, and ginger.

Soft and peachy on the palate, with darker spice notes, walnuts, and plain chocolate.

The finish is lengthy, with more plain chocolate and some spiced oak.

A slight agricultural note to start, and although sweet and soft, also a little indistinct.

This is a palate whisky, with plenty of integrated smoke, rich fruitcake, and, as its name suggests, plenty of chocolate.

Water, surprisingly, rectifies this: the nose opens to show complex dark depths, while the palate is lengthened and given extra aromatic lift.

This is so much more than a pumped-up version of Peat Chimney; this has sweet smoke from singed green wood twigs, light honey, peach, all balanced with TCP-soaked bandages.

Sweet honey, orange, generous malt, and caramel, but it’s the smoke coiling its way throughout that makes the greatest impression on the palate and finish.

These blended malts tend to move quickly, so grab one while you can.

Lemon juice and warm granite on the nose, backed by sweet heather, ginger, and developing Jaffa orange, medicinal peat, and charcuterie.

Mouth-coating and initially sweet, before darker berry notes emerge.

Medium-length in the finish, with lingering peat smoke and spicy oak.

Quite rich and chewy, with nutty toffee, vanilla fudge, nougat, chocolate cake, orchard fruit, and black cherry—all on a solid malty foundation.

This isn’t one of those elegant, lighter-flavored blends with a high grain whisky content.

A blend for the malt whisky drinker (but should also appeal to the more open-minded blend drinker, too).

A marriage of 3 and 4 year old whisky aged in first-fill bourbon barrels, with the 4 year old portion being finished in oloroso sherry casks.

The first-fill bourbon packs a flavor punch, while the sherry softens, rounds, and adds complexity.

Barrel char, burnt raisin, boat dock, and tarry rope, softened by caramel and enhanced with notes of tropical fruit.

As with previous releases, the 7th Edition of 100% Islay is produced from barley grown and malted at the distillery.

Matured in fresh and refill Buffalo Trace bourbon barrels filled in 2010.

Smoky ripe pears, wood preservative, vanilla, and apple purée on the nose.

Fresh citrus fruit, buttery toffee, and ashy peat on the palate.

Distilled in 1999, this single malt was aged in refill American oak hogsheads and refill American oak barrels.

Pineapple and walnuts figure on the early nose, which becomes more floral, ultimately offering violets.

The palate is full and fruity, majoring in peaches in syrup, with new-mown hay and white pepper.

It’s a crying shame that this great distillery is so rarely seen.

Here, a bourbon cask has reduced the meatiness and amplified the fruity component, but these are fruits with depth and power, allied to dried flowers.

The mango-like sweetness is reduced to syrup; there’s light plum jam and some old paper.

Sweet on the tongue, with crystallized ginger, apricot, and a finish of spice, and the strange sweetness of licorice root.

Not only couldn’t anyone pronounce it correctly (it’s “Oth Rusk,” in case you’re interested), but in recent years it’s seen its Singleton prefix hijacked by other larger distilleries — Glendullan, Dufftown, Glen Ord — leaving it somewhat forgotten by malt mavens.

Part of the old J&B stable, it continues to make a malty/nutty spirit, a style which is also somewhat out of favor in the world of single malts.

Maybe this bottling (in a rather spiffing retro pack) will redress the balance.

The color is full gold, and though initially the nose shows the high bottling strength to the max, beneath the prickly heat is eucalyptus oil alongside those signature nutty/cereal notes.

But here’s the difference; there’s sweetness, too: toffee and thick clover honey, even a touch of sawdust and pencil shavings before a drop of water brings out malted milk and powdered hazelnut.

In other words, there’s plenty of distillery character, but good cask development.

In the mouth, when neat, the needling alcohol slightly numbs the tongue and the effect from start to finish is a bit fragmented.

Add water, however (not too much), and there’s a soft, creamy effect across the tongue with praline, almond, and a dark chocolate note as well.

Be careful with the water though, as you need to retain the zesty acidity on the finish.

This is the latest spinoff from core blend The Famous Grouse, so there’s Macallan and Highland Park in here, and from the taste of it, in sizeable quantities.

With smart but minimalist packaging and an environmental theme, this is a very ‘now’ whisky.

It’s heavily sherried, very rich, and sweet, but there’s enough spice to stop it becoming cloying, and it’s as soft as a down feather blanket on the palate.

The oldest expression available from Speyburn, this has been aged in a mix of American oak fino sherry and bourbon casks, and is non-chill filtered.

Quite full-bodied and creamy on the palate; nutty, with malt, honey, and citrus fruit.

The citrus fruit becomes spicier in the medium-length, oaky finish.

Of the three Singleton bottlings, Dufftown is aimed at European markets, Glen Ord at Asia, and Glendullan at the U.S.

The oldest expression in the Singleton of Glendullan stable, this boasts a nose of brittle toffee, dried fruits, and new leather.

Nutty toffee, drinking chocolate, banana split, and coconut on the smooth, soft palate.

The nose unravels with milk chocolate, thick hazelnut spread, and a slender twist of orange peel, though that delectable goodness is evenly balanced with peppermint patties and detectable light, floral top notes.

This has a lush softness, with a perceptibly slow crescendo of flavors incorporating caramel toffee, popcorn, and chocolate praline.

It’s beautifully integrated with a smooth, dense texture, and releases its grip reluctantly with just a whisper of a peppermint reprise.

Malt biscuits, runny caramel, blended black tea, melting butter sliding across a hot skillet, the leather uppers on new Oxfords, and a more enjoyable waft of peat smoke than expected.

Clean, light flavors; lime jelly, root ginger, initially not overly sweet, then a boost of honey, caramelized fruits, with toffee and cocoa later still.

It’s pricked with hints of smoke throughout, with a long finish of pepper and other spices.

The oldest of the 2016 Diageo Special Releases, distilled in 1975, then rested in refill American hogsheads.

The initial nose is slightly balsamic, with green tea, ripe eating apples, and developing vanilla.

Creamy on the palate, with big vanilla custard notes, white pepper, and dates.

If big smoke and peat don't float your boat and you'd rather metaphorically skip through a summer orchard while drinking whisky, then the Speyside version of Clan Denny is the full fruit bowl.

The mixing of malts means that sherry and bourbon Speysiders get a say, so it's the complete package, and there's lots going on.

Thanks to the Gulf Stream, palm trees grow on Arran’s west coast.

That prevailing sunny climate appears to have influenced this mature example from Lochranza: ripe, yellow summer fruits, lime zest, strong mixed spices, and notes of the sea, like sand brushed from seashells.

Very approachable; this just oozes sunshine, bringing us the joys of sweet citrus, spices, marzipan, mango, and papaya.

These Boutique-y blends are delivering terrifically good whiskies time after time, but the small batches sell through quickly now that the word is out.

This one has plums, apple, mixed peel, spices, walnut, and sherry notes.

The palate is fizzy, with plummy depths, chocolate shavings, ginger biscuits, and dark fruits with a medium-weight mouthfeel.

Once the ginger settles down it leaves a pleasing, mild maltiness.

Here’s one in the eye for people who grumble about high prices for age statement whisky.

Sherry aromas, good-quality plain chocolate, clove-studded oranges, coffee beans, and fat sultanas.

Thick, gloopy texture with lashings of sherry, mouth-drawing tannins, a pleasant buzz of wood spices, peppery chocolate, and coffee dregs.

It emerges from a savory middle section to a burnt orange salvation, followed by a hot, oaky finish.

Pronounced “Pot Doo,” this is without doubt a rugged coastal and/or island whisky, but on a mild and temperate day.

Salt, spice, and peat are all to the fore, but it’s a gentle giant of a whisky, with some citrus drizzle and a light honeycomb heart.

The main wood influence seems to soften the delivery so that the punch it packs won’t floor you.

The first expression in Douglas Laing’s new Old Particular Consortium of Cards Single Cask Scotch Whisky Collection was sourced from a single refill butt.

The nose offers sweet peat, toffee bonbons, brine, beach tide lines, and antiseptic.

The palate is zesty, with ashy peat, asphalt, chili, and citrus fruit.

Dark chocolate, more soot, and extra chili in the very long finish.

Scallywag is no lapdog; this mutt runs off the leash and disappears down a rabbit hole.

The first thing that strikes is a spicy blast of cardamom, fennel, and onion seeds.

Baked chestnut, grapefruit, baked orange, plum, and walnut aromas.

Warm marmalade with thick peel, a fanfare of spices, and brown sugar cubes.

Gratifying finish of grapefruit peel and a burning core of spice deep in the throat.

If you needed proof that Scotch whiskies don’t fit neatly into established categories, look no further than this marine style, peated Highland malt.

Sea salt, oyster shells, and light smoke lead the nose, with hay and apricot underneath.

In the entry, the flavors burst on the palate with sea salt, honey, malt, oak, and smoke.

Peat smoke really builds in the mid-palate but manages not to lose the supporting flavors, although it becomes the real star of a long finish.

Lush caramel, red apples, sanded oak, and olive oil first pressings with herbal overtones, this ancient grain has managed to retain its distinctive character.

The palate is initially mouth-drawing with an oily structure, the flavors are a pleasing tangle of caramelized apple, toffee, and sultana, with a noticeably long finish.

It’s welcoming to have a great aged grain unafraid to show its true colors.

The initial nose is herbaceous, with green apples, then brittle toffee.

The palate is straightforward, but full and pleasing, featuring pineapple, fudge, vanilla, and almonds.

The finish is medium in length, nutty, with a hint of black pepper.

Distilled in 2006 and aged for 11 years in a PX sherry hogshead (#310110).

Peach blossom, vanilla, and icing sugar on the nose, which becomes more floral in time.

Smooth and very sweet on the substantial palate: canned pineapple in syrup, malt, and a sprinkling of cinnamon.

Vibrant pineapple and sweet oak notes last to the very end of the lengthy finish.

Distilled in 2006, this was filled into a virgin French oak cask (#310865) and bottled at cask strength after 11 years.

Remaining fruity in the long finish, with black pepper and juicy oak.

Candied ginger notes alongside a distinct salinity—think winkles—and in time a hint of verjus, even lanolin with water.

The best smoky Bunna’ I’ve come across, showing maturity, balance, and no rubberiness.

Released for the 2014 London Whisky Show but still commercially available.

Roasted spices, more peat than smoke, coastal breezes, lemon creaminess, bacon-flavored chips, and carbolic soap.

Disarmingly, it starts with lemon, apple, and honey before, brilliantly, the pepper and chili heat slams into you like an Acme grand piano falling from the sky.

Bitter chocolate notes, velvety cocoa, and dry orange peel, with morning-after cigar smoke, settling ash, and roasted meat juices.

Seriously impressive delivery of flavor from Oliver Chilton, who has concocted a versatile dram at a terrific value.

Here, Craigellachie is slimmed down and appears in slightly leaner guise, with an aromatic spritz of vetiver-heavy male cologne coming across first before fresh fruits follow on.

The pineapple distillery character is now dried, before the palate shows sweet chocolate pudding, char, honeysuckle, herbs, and white fruits.

This, the oldest of the new Original Bottling range, is the most fiercely priced.

It shows balanced and slightly restrained mature notes—think of candle wax and waxed leather.

The palate is thick—the distillery’s worm tubs having an effect—giving floral accents and a hint of barbecued pineapple.

This 17 year old independent bottling of Ben Nevis has somewhat unusually been matured in a fino sherry cask, rather than the more common oloroso or PX.

The nose offers initial milk chocolate notes, then a whiff of cold roast pork and oak.

The mouthfeel is pleasingly full, decidedly gingery, with caramel and dry sherry.

Aged in first-fill sherry butts, this cask strength vintage from Gordon & MacPhail features a nose which opens with savory ginger, becoming more fragrant, plus vanilla, fudge, and warm leather.

Oily in the mouth, with ripe cherries, sweet spices, pipe tobacco, and new leather.

Alasdair Day is on a mission to build a new Lowland distillery in the Borders of Scotland.

While we wait, the next batch from his grandfather’s cellar book is a pale, golden dram with a delectable nose of lemon meringue pie, spring blossoms, peach pit, candy floss, and Valrhona Ivoire white chocolate.

Pear syrup, white chocolate, and a sizzle of toasted muffins dissipate into a mild ginger and gooseberry finish.

The senior member of the Girvan range is very approachable, with a gorgeous nose like a hay meadow on a summer’s morning, while sucking honey-lemon lozenges.

The fruitiness has mellowed, ripened, and softened with the extra aging.

A thick, luscious, layered dram of toffee banana, sparkling orange peel, wood spices, ripe fruits, and banoffee pie lead to a mouth-coating conclusion of shimmering spiciness.

The debut release from Don Sutcliffe's Sutcliffe & Sons, this small-batch blend of grain whiskies comes from several different distilleries including Loch Lomond, North British, and a 30 year old whisky from Carsebridge.

The blend is married in first-fill sherry casks, which brings bright fruit to a fairly light whisky with notes of blackberry, vanilla, honey, light oak, and iris.

Quite good for a grain whisky blend, but falls just short of being exceptional.

Rich on the nose, with stewed fruit, butterscotch, and soft spices.

Very smooth palate delivery, with luscious fruit flavors: baked apples and peaches in syrup, then cinnamon and ginger.

The medium-length finish features ebbing spice and developing milk chocolate.

This is the first single malt to be released by the Last Drop Distillers, and the Aberdeen-shire veteran is old-style, well-peated Glen Garioch.

Unusually, it was matured in what the bottlers describe as “a bourbon-style remade hogshead cask.”

Fruity and herbal on the nose, with apples, marzipan, ginger, linseed, and a hint of camphor.

Surprisingly vibrant fruit notes fill the perfumed palate, with allspice, before it starts to become tannic.

Ultimately very mouth-drying, with subtle smoke, and a fatty spice note at the very end.

This example is more assertive than the Strathclyde 1987 (see below), but with a better defined grain character.

Warming, with dried orange peel, a big wave of ginger, spice, dried apple, and mango ensure sufficient sweetness to swamp the acidic tendencies of the citrus.

The spices rattle around the mouth for some considerable time, colliding with the dry citrus.

Notes of damp kiln smoke, tar, wet sheep, roasted chestnuts, and pine forest bedding, along with more subtle pear, espresso, anise, and brine.

Sweet notes of vanilla, fig cake, and maple syrup serve up balance and complexity.

Plus, I feel that the sherry notes in PC7 integrate better than the Madeira notes from PC6.

But my favorite is still the original PC5 for its purity, balance, maturity (for its age), and pristine character.

Distilled in 2002, here’s Port Charlotte with an assured maturity.

Amber in color, with some smoke and a pleasing whiff of cowshed (sweet hay and cow’s breath), before rosehip syrup and ozonic freshness.

The palate is gently complex; a drop of water is needed to calm the heat and reveal the smoke that interweaves between the layers.

It retains its fresh acidic finish, with nutmeg, soft lemon, and pear.

Take a parcel of Macallan, Glenrothes, and Tamdhu all aged over 40 years, season lightly with gently peated Bunnahabhain and North British grain whisky and what do you get?

Golden sultanas, linseed oil, orange blossom honey, butterscotch, drying nuttiness, and cedarwood.

Blending has beneficially enhanced the three sherry-casked malts.

It’s juicy and sticky, rhubarb and damson jams, oak tannins, and a little burnt note as the power swells.

A remarkable, decadent drop released to follow the success of the Golden Age blend, this delivers heather honey, tangerine juice, banana chips, dried apricots, and sanded oak.

Citrus strands, candied peel, neroli, and dried mango swirl amidst a syrupy mouthfeel, steadily becoming creamier as it squeezes out yet more flavor.

Dry, oaky finish with residual fruit, coffee beans, and pleasingly bitter oak tannins that tingle the gums.

The 2016 Fèis Ìle limited edition of Jura was triple finished in sherry casks, namely palomino fino, amoroso oloroso, and apostoles oloroso, and is non-chill filtered.

The nose is soft and warming, with notes of candy, vanilla, and almonds against a sweet sherry background.

The palate is rich and rounded with a significant sherry influence—dried fruits, notably raisins and prunes, new leather, and aniseed.

Finally, slightly mouth-drying with prickly spices and more raisins.

Distilled in 2008 from 100 percent Scottish barley peated to 167 ppm.

Peaches dipped in hot plain chocolate and tarry peat on the fragrant nose.

The palate offers sweet, creamy orchard fruits and honey, backed by citrus-laden peat.

This non-chill filtered vintage release was matured in a mix of American oak and Spanish oak sherry casks, and stored in traditional dunnage warehouses.

Peaches and vanilla on the nose, with a hint of milk chocolate-coated Turkish Delight and background ginger.

Tinned peaches in cream and more ginger on the palate, then orange notes emerge.

Coils of red apple peel, ripe orange, cherry blossom florals, freshly split oak, and dry, gentle spices, like running a wet finger around an old spice jar.

It’s juicy and thick, with festive satsumas, some bright sharpness, and acidic citrus overcome by juicy sweetness, marmalade flavors, and walnut.

The refined finish has a tangle of spice, orange peel, honey, and just a whiff of struck match.

A non-chill filtered single cask bottling from The Creative Whisky Co.

This is a classic ‘full-on’ yet well-balanced Islay, with a nose of sweet peat, lemongrass, iodine, and brine.

Sweet fruit notes on the palate, developing smoky peat, and barbecued meat.

Long in the finish, with spicy licorice, chili, and peat embers.

A peated malt from Loch Lomond, this vintage expression spent 25 years in refill bourbon barrels.

A delicate, mildly smoky nose, with vanilla, gentle spice, black pepper, and a subtle medicinal characteristic.

Soft and fruity on the palate, with encroaching earthiness and dry peat smoke.

The smoke lingers in the lengthy finish, with vanilla, aniseed, and spicy, slightly tannic oak.

On safe territory here, with neroli oil, caramel, roasted spices, surly peat smoke, and just enough fruity sweetness to stay in the good books.

Weightier than the 15 year old, with more aged whisky characteristics: bright clementine, dried citrus wheels, and clove, but after an eruption of smoke, it fades to pineapple, fermenting fruits, and a prickly grapefruit acidity.

This was distilled in February 1996, matured in a second-fill bourbon barrel, and bottled in April 2017.

The nose yields nectarines, vanilla ice cream, fudge, and milk chocolate.

Smooth and rounded on the palate, with ripe apples, toffee, walnuts, and ultimately, a hint of lemon, plus black pepper.

Cardhu has always been a pleasant, but uninspiring, whisky to me.

This is one of the best Cardhu whiskies I’ve tasted -- richer and more distinctive.

It’s clean and tight, with orange, tangerine, lemon gumdrops, ginger, delicate honey, butterscotch, and vanilla, with a dusting of powdered sugar.

Fresh aromas of smoked olives, brine, exotic pepper, and fried bacon.

In flavor, this is a big, dynamic whisky-smoked olives, sea salt, seaweed, mustard seed, all on a backdrop of vanilla sweetness.

Floral aromas balanced with a gentle vanilla sweetness, and soft fruit.

The palate delivers what the aroma promises in a very clean and balanced way.

A ripe proposition, the fruit and the smoke locked tightly together like interwoven fingers.

Peaches, melon, baked apple, fresh mango, and sugar strands with a supporting role of red berries.

With a malt content exceeding two-thirds, the full-bodied palate is sweet as brown sugar, with mandarin tartness, apple, and red licorice meandering to a vinous finish of red berry fruit.

With its cheeky Glasgow landmark on the label, this permanent addition to the GKS range is pure gallus.

Similar in profile to the 12 year old expression below, except that the bouquet is thicker, the sweetness is more caramelized, and the fruit notes are drier (no surprises).

There’s also more depth and maturity in this whisky, more oak spice, and a longer, drier finish.

Available only at the distillery or online, and limited to 5,000 special decanters, this is a special Famous Grouse release to mark the 30th anniversary of the blend.

But it is excellent and there's lots of very old, woody, and ripe malt in the mix.

As Highland Park and The Macallan are in the stable, expect a fruity, oaky, superbly balanced treat.

Legendary master blender John Ramsay handpicked the casks for this whisky, and the job was completed by his successor, Gordon Motion.

Puffy marshmallows, nougat, fallen orchard fruit, green cardamom, and clove; it’s like all the threads pull together harmoniously.

A lucid concentration of fruit mingles on the tongue, preceding flavor advancement through spearmint, menthol, light peat smoke, and burning orange oils.

Sit back as it heads toward a spicy tingle of ginger, apple, and scorched coriander seed.

Somebody at Diageo has been taking a lot of interest in the Johnnie Walker range of late, what with the revamp of the core range and now a regular stream of special releases.

This is the first of a series for Travel Retail only, but it takes the Johnnie Walker themes — vanilla, spice, and honey, with wispy peat and smoke — and adds savory spice to the earthiness.

An unmistakable classic and an exemplar of a blended Scotch whisky, famous around the world.

Toffee, swirling caramel, whole almond, and mashed banana amid twisting white smoke.

The palate has such poise, balance, and dexterity that it sets the standard for many less accomplished blends to aspire to.

Conspicuously iconic, and the closest thing you will find to a complete whisky at this price.

A futuristic bottle design released for Ridley Scott’s replicant sequel set in 2049, hence the punchy bottling strength.

Peat smoke, toffee caramels, fresh banana, and sliced red apple.

Promising layers of fruit salad, grape, apple, citrus, and apricot are swept aside by an aggressive peppery attack, emerging to notes of bitter fruit, burnt rubber, and smoke.

If this is a glimpse of the future, I’m stockpiling regular Black Label now.

A polished nose of red apple, cinnamon, caramels, and salted almonds makes for an enticing prospect on this showpiece dram.

The indulgent palate comprises dark cooked fruits, coffee, malty cocoa, sticky toffee pudding, fudge, and a fine line of orange.

Roll it around the mouth: the integrated aged grains enable these select malts to achieve their full flavor potential.

An exceptionally long finish has remnants of that toffee pudding and a well-sucked aniseed ball.

I’m reminded of leafy ferns in spring, sweet melon, green bananas, fresh cream, and a dusting of spice when I nose this blend.

A light, green fruit taste of white grape and melon overlaid with runny toffee and banana, before the impression of thick fruit skins, becoming slightly tannic.

Light spices and pepper follow with a finish of apple core and rich spice.

Silky palate delivery, with honey, dark chocolate, light sherry, and cloves.

Similar in flavor to the Aberfeldy 12 reviewed below, but with more depth.

There’s more orange rind in the marmalade notes, along with Clementine and coconut.

A whisky for those of you who want a fun whisky that’s not heavy on the palate.

(Reviewers note: this is an exclusive bottling to Park Avenue Liquors, New York, NY.)

This is signature Ardbeg: young (but not too young), bold, and with an attitude too!

Its flavors are reminiscent of crumbled peat thrown on a campfire, with notes of damp earth, pepper, and seaweed.

Still, there’s a soft underbelly of vanilla sweetness that helps to tame this beast and provide balance.

A peppery, kippered, smoky finish entertains long after the whisky disappears.

A proportion of the component whiskies has been matured in virgin Black Sea oak casks, while the rest has been aged in bourbon barrels.

The nose is sweet, with warm cloves and soft peat; a hint of brine.

Menthol and herbal notes, toasted oak, plain chocolate, sweet antiseptic.

6,660 bottles of The Devil’s Punch Bowl have been released, and the component whiskies come from 24 casks filled between 1996 and 2006.

They include a number of sherry butts, and some peated spirit is included in the mix.

The nose offers soft, mellow malt, dried fruits, and milk chocolate.

Silky smooth and deceptively drinkable at full strength, the palate is nutty and notably fruity, with ginger and brittle toffee.

Isle of Arran distillers is now offering exclusive bottlings in the U.S. along the same lines as those already available in the UK, starting with 16 year old single cask, cask strength variants.

Arran Premium Sherry Single Cask #1979 displays milk chocolate, vanilla, new leather, wood polish, and butterscotch on the nose.

The palate is richly sherried, with espresso, fruit loaf, nutmeg, and old wood.

percent sherry hogsheads and 70 percent bourbon casks.

The nose features malt, milk chocolate, and honey, with a citric edge.

The palate mirrors the nose with more malt, honey, and milk chocolate, plus ginger, nutmeg, and spicy oak.

This 38 year old Travel Retail-exclusive expression has been aged in bourbon casks, and not chill filtered.

It follows an initial batch of the same vintage, released in 2011.

The nose is perfumed, with a resin note and developing vanilla and caramel popcorn.

Very fruity on the palate, with oranges and lemons, emerging spices, and benign oak.

The additional maturation has given the fruity elements a greater profundity.

Very fruity (peaches in syrup, pineapple, golden apple, sultana) and satisfyingly rich in texture, with coating vanilla, marzipan, and a potpourri of dried spice (especially on the nose and finish of the palate).

Matured in second-fill bourbon casks, this expression of Balblair offers a distinctive aroma of bananas, along with cooking apples, sultanas, nuts, and spices.

It is full-bodied and exhibits a palate of toffee and spicy fruits, and becomes increasingly chocolate-y, with distinct cocoa notes, when given time to breathe.

The finish is lengthy and smooth, with lasting lively spice and vanilla.

Vintage is the first distillery bottling to be non-chill filtered, noncolored, and offered at 46%.

The nose offers lemonade, vanilla, allspice, and developing milk chocolate and caramel notes.

Clean and straightforward on the palate; sweet and spicy, with tangerines, eating apples, toffee, and more milk chocolate.

Following the initial release of a 1997 vintage Balblair in 2007, a second edition has now been launched, with the spirit in question having benefited from an additional five years’ maturation in first-fill bourbon barrels.

Fresh, light, and fruity on the nose: tinned peaches, pear drops, sweet apples, plus vanilla and wood putty.

The palate features lots of succulent soft fruits, milk chocolate, honey, and spice.

The finish is medium in length, and spicy chocolate notes persist.

The Balvenie continues its limited edition releases of 17 year old whiskies.

Previous editions included an Islay Cask finish and a New Oak finish.

It’s a delicious whisky, with clean, ripe, sherried fruit marrying nicely with the dry oak spices.

Notes of apple pie, honeyed summer fruit, caramel toasted almonds, and toffee, with dry resinous oak on the finish to round out the sweetness.

The darkness of the hue of this, the second official release of a 40 year old from Balvenie, gives an indication of how intense the relationship between cask and spirit has been over its long sequestration.

It emerges brimming with dense aromas such as tamarind paste, treacle, and Black Forest gateau.

Amazingly, on the palate there’s a lift of vanilla-like sweetness before the heavier and drier elements close down on the finish.

Light gold, with good intensity and a more noticeable malty note than is common with this distillery, as well as touches of daffodil and dried honeycomb.

The wood influence appears minimal to start with, but more vanilla creeps through in time; water brings out almond milk.

This expression dates from 2002, when Balvenie first produced a batch of heavily peated malt.

Matured in American oak casks, the nose exhibits subtle peat balanced by honey, vanilla, and ripe red apples.

On the palate, the soft smoke is well integrated with vanilla, more honey, ginger, and overripe pears.

Ashy peat, citrus fruits, cinnamon, and tangy oak in the finish.

This 2014 bottling of Ben Nevis illustrates how good the single malt can be with robust sherry cask maturation.

Distilled in June 1998, it was filled into a fresh sherry butt and matured for 15 years before 582 bottles were released.

Raisins, prunes, old polished leather, and roasted meat on the nose.

The body is full, with the palate offering succulent dark berries, dates, raisins, and plain chocolate.

Long and spicy in the finish, with cloves and rum raisin-flavored dark chocolate.

Though sounding more like a character out of Asterix than a whisky, Authenticus is the code for the peated arm of the ever-expanding BenRiach portfolio.

It’s the smoke that you notice first, typically Highland-style wood smoke with a light aromatic lift akin to smoked meat.

It’s not a bludgeoning smoke however, because BenRiach’s inherent orchard fruit sweetness is there alongside touches of beeswax.

This new member of the core range is wholly from stock produced by the distillery’s new(ish) owner.

It has a gentle, sweet, honeycomb nose, with some banana, a little malt, and lemon freshness.

The palate shows light honey/honeysuckle at the start and is well balanced, with maltiness and a signature spicy finish adding a dry counterpoint to the sweetness from the cask and a distillate with good weight.

As the name implies, this non-chill filtered expression was finished in Pedro Ximinez sherry butts.

The nose offers sweet sherry, honey, malt, and lemon, while the palate yields more sherry, plain chocolate, honey, spicy toffee, and a hint of orange.

This whisky combines the finer qualities of both the 18 year old and the 25 year old.

It expresses the balance and purity of the 18 year old, while showing maturity found in the 25 year old.

The lack of chill-filtering enhances the whisky’s vibrancy and, like all the Benromachs, it’s mouth-coatingly thick and malty.

The first 10 year old release containing whisky produced entirely by the new owners.

I love the interplay here between the malt, sherry, and smoke, with all getting a chance to shine.

A rich vanilla-tinged malty foundation, deep caramel, rhum agricole, an array of lush fruit and dark chocolate, along with grassy/hay notes, honeysuckle, subtle spice (cinnamon, anise), and lingering earthy smoke.

I would only make three changes to make this whisky even better (and elevate it to 90+ status): a couple more years on oak, bottling at 46%, and not chill-filtering it.

Another example of the old ‘Strathspey’ style of whisky, which predates the lighter, more estery/floral style we have become accustomed to.

Here, distillery weight and time work in tandem to give a nose that has slightly overripe orchard fruits, smoke, and Seville orange.

The palate then heads into the hedgerows—hawthorn and currant jam—before a waxiness emerges.

Citrus zest aromas and creamy sweet notes-reminiscent of lemon meringue pie-with subtle tropical fruit and marshmallow notes dancing throughout.

This whisky has great balance and is fully mature at 12 yrs., which should be no surprise for a Lowland whisky.

The palate delivers what the aroma promises, with a touch of honey up front, citrus and vanilla in the middle, and a delicate dryness on the finish.

 I've always admired Bladnoch-a whisky that needs to be better known-and this expression reinforces my opinion.

Distilled in Scotland’s most southerly distillery of Bladnoch in October 1992, this bottling has been matured in a refill hogshead, and 150 bottles have been allocated to the U.S.

It presents a fresh nose, with initial herbal notes, turning to cornflakes and newly-mown hay.

Sweet and fruity on the palate, with oat biscuits and milk chocolate.

The finish is relatively short, with spicy custard, then a final fruit flourish.

The revival of Bladnoch Distillery in southwest Scotland continues, with the launch of 15 and 25 year old expressions to add to the NAS Samsara (reviewed winter 2016).

Sweet and floral on the nose, with violets, Jaffa orange, and fragrant fresh oak.

Medium to full-bodied, with rich fruit notes, praline, malt, and finally, raisins and prunes.

The first Tempest to be imported to the U.S. Aged exclusively in first-fill bourbon casks.

With the bourbon cask, and relatively young age, you can really feel all the Islay love.

Bracing, with plenty of sea character, along with honeyed vanilla, citrus, floral notes (especially lavender), rumbling peat smoke, tobacco, and resinous oak on the finish.

A sweet start, then a sudden blast of fresh, menthol-like toothpaste (pleasant) before it dips into slightly decaying soft fruits (again, nice), a mashy note, then violet-accented smoke.

This sweetness continues on the palate, where there’s toffee, raisin, ripe fruits, and slow-burning peatiness, fully integrated and ember-like on the back palate.

Fresh, appetizing aroma and flavor of brine, delicate peat, gentle sweetness, and a touch of spice and seaweed.

This is a lovely, very appetizing expression of a distillery that has been closed and dismantled.

It is a very nice example of a northern Highland whisky, and expresses a great balance between sweetness and brine, youth and maturity.

However, I would have liked to have seen it bottled at a higher strength.

Part of an ongoing series, and the first appearance of Port Charlotte.

Assertive with banana, roasted red pepper, paprika, and a hit of barbecued pork glazed with pomegranate molasses.

The palate has blazing heat, but also oiliness and real density.

The peat doesn’t so much rumble as sit there in a cloud: opaque, impenetrable.

Peated whiskies definitely have a dropping off point where they become too old and tired, and the nose for this one would indicate it’s past its prime, with gravel, rubbery smoke, and raisin.

On the palate it’s a different story, as ashy smoke combines with raisin and rancio, turning the peat age detriment into an asset.

Strangely alluring, it’s like sitting on a park bench next to a weathered old man who ends up having a real tale to tell.

Dried peat smoke, a papery column of cigar ash, sizzling bacon fat, baked earth, and a shower of sea spray, coupled with hints of fresh peach and ripe fruits.

The palate has a light, oily consistency ingrained with smokiness throughout, tasting of vanilla toffee, pick ‘n’ mix foam bananas, tangy citrus, and sweet tropical fruits, the whole arrangement given a peppery lift before succumbing to a late nuttiness.

It’s not named after the Gaelic for smoky for nothing, you know.

This was matured in second-fill sherry casks and then spent 3 years in first-fill Pedro Ximénez butts.

The nose features fruit and nutty milk chocolate, fudge, sultanas, and mixed candied peel.

Lush, sweet sherry on the palate, with a carryover of fudge and sultanas from the nose.

Long in the nutty, spicy finish, which offers nutmeg and peppery oak.

Like the Clynelish 14 year old also reviewed in this issue, it is nice to see Diageo finally introduce official distillery bottlings of Caol Ila here in the U.S. (after being available in the UK for many years now).

My suitcases were getting quite heaving on my return trips from Scotland.

Understandably, the immediate impact on the palate is the peat smoke, but there's so much else going on here, too: smoked olives, seaweed, salt and pepper, all placed on a gently sweet bed of toffee and vanilla fudge.

It is very phenolic, reminiscent of standing downwind of a peat kiln.

Interwoven spice (especially pepper), seaweed, and sweet & sour notes add complexity.

Nicely balanced flavors of peat smoke, seaweed, salt & pepper, all wrapped up in a gentle sweetness.

This bottling has great balance, and I especially enjoy how the smoke and sweetness marry together.

I would love to try this whisky at 46 or 50% ABV, which would give it a bit more guts.

The 25 years in oak has made it a bit more refined (and drier on the palate) compared to younger expressions.

All the classic Caol Ila notes are stillthere-mustard, seaweed, olives, damp peat, salt and pepper.

A touch of vanilla wafer, anise, smoked almonds, and tarry rope add complexity.

Those of you who prefer Ardbeg 17 over the 10, and Laphroaig 15 over the 10, will be attracted to this whisky when compared to Caol Ila's younger siblings.

Notes of tarry rope infused with seaweed and brine, all on an oily, malty, vanilla foundation.

Throw in some orchard fruit, Manzanilla olive, black licorice stick, and soot, with brine and Tellicherry pepper on the finish.

Caol Ila makes unpeated whisky for blenders, but it rarely gets bottled as a single malt.

Here’s a very revealing opportunity to find out what Caol Ila tastes like without the smoke.

Good viscosity and rather sweet, showing thick, honeyed vanilla, gobs of fruit (lemon drops, lime tart, ripe Bartlett pear, kiwi), mint jelly, and cut grass.

Its sea influence finally emerges towards the finish with brine and just a hint of seaweed.

Bruichladdich and Bunnahabhain are now bottling peated whiskies, and Caol Ila does just the opposite.

This is an interesting diversion, but I am missing the added dimension of peat smoke in this Caol Ila.

This is to be a permanent addition to the core Caol Ila range, but it will raise a few eyebrows, completely ignoring the current peat battle between Ardbeg and Bruichladdich and heading off into an altogether more refined and delicate direction.

This is a dignified and complex malt, which doesn’t give everything up immediately.

There’s soft pear and guava on the nose, and the trademark oiliness and distinctive peat are there, but there’s a buttery quality, too, as well as some brine and spice, apple pip, and traces of aniseed.

You get a sense of its age late on, with some oaky tannins and sharper spice, but overall this is an unhurried, complex, and sweet whisky with just enough peat to keep it honest.

Unusual, insofar as this is the one chance a year that drinkers get to try Caol Ila’s other expression: the unpeated version, which — and here’s a bit of history for you — helped save the distillery during the lean period of the whisky loch in the early 80s.

Rather than this just being Caol Ila with the peat stripped out, the team made  it in a different fashion — but there are still hints of commonality.

For example, the grassy note that usually lies beneath the smoke is the lead aroma here, and it’s not any old grass, but wet grass — like skidding on a football (soccer) field.

The mind keeps looking for smoke, but apart from a hint of birch smoke (which could come from the (refill) cask), it’s whistle-clean and fruity, and with a touch of water, fills with an aroma of toffee popcorn, custard, and pears.

The palate continues in this light fashion with melon balls and fruit cocktail.

This potentially bland fleshiness is given a perkiness thanks to the high alcohol and, again, a jag of acidity.

This unpeated version of Caol Ila was matured in refill American oak hogsheads.

The nose is quite reticent, with subtle vanilla and milk chocolate notes.

Big, fizzy-sweet fruit notes on the palate, with caramel, rock pools, hot spices, plain chocolate, and very mild wood smoke.

One would fear that slumbering away for 35 years in a sherry cask would completely dominate this whisky’s profile.

As you would expect, it is nicely matured, but it is surprisingly clean and well rounded, too!

Exotic notes of dried fruits, sultana, subtle (but viscous) honey, sandalwood, and a potpourri of spice (especially cinnamon, anise, ginger).

Darkness! is a range of cask strength single malts which have been finished for 3 months in 50-liter first-fill oloroso or Pedro Ximénez casks.

Waxy on the nose, with dates, prunes, cherries, cocoa powder, window polish, and finally vanilla.

Warm and spicy on the palate, with sweet sherry, hot chocolate, intense tropical fruit notes, and cloves.

The fruit becomes more citric in the finish; nutty, with clove oil.

This Clynelish is notable as the first no age statement Special Release, and maturation took place in refill European and bodega European oak casks, along with first-fill, refill, and rejuvenated American oak casks.

The nose is fresh and salty, with olives, pine, and lemongrass, then fruit notes ranging from citric to sweet.

Oily on the palate, with those same citric and sweet fruits as the nose, plus cayenne pepper and vanilla.

The maturation regime of this Clynelish involves first-fill American oak barrels, rejuvenated and refill American oak hogsheads, plus bodega and refill European oak butts.

The minimum age in the assemblage is 15 years, and 2,946 bottles are available.

  A complex, perfumed nose, with scorched grass, developing vanilla fudge, and freshly-peeled orange.

Classic Clynelish waxiness on the palate, with toffee, more orange, peach, digestive biscuits, cinnamon, and developing pepper.

The lengthy, creamy finish features chocolate-coated orange candy and ginger.

Those who are fond of ripe, sherried whiskies will enjoy this new 15 year old.

The sherry is nicely layered (but not sappy or cloying) and the Dalmore spirit is big enough to handle it.

Lush fruit, richly textured and fleshy, with a warming spice impact on the finish.

Orange marmalade, glazed citrus, and key lime pie are enveloped by sweet toffee/molasses notes, and spiced with cinnamon, clove, ginger, and subtle chocolate.

This whisky consists of Dalmore aged in a wide variety of casks, including cabernet sauvignon, madeira, Matusalem sherry, marsala, port, and bourbon.

This diversity shows in the whisky’s complexity and unique flavor profile.

Very rich, but balanced with oak spice and gripping resin (especially on the finish).

Sweet layers of toffee, molasses, and vanilla fudge provide a foundation for red plum, ripe red raspberry, black cherry, blueberry, orange marmalade, kiwi, grape skin, and toasted almond.

A very busy whisky which requires a good dose of mental participation to really appreciate it and sort all the flavors out.

The Dalmore Cromartie was distilled in 1996 and has been matured in oloroso sherry casks.

 A floral nose with cocoa powder and warm leather, along with hand-rolling tobacco and gingery, citrus notes.

Rich and elegant sherry notes on the palate, with soft, smoky treacle and dark chocolate-covered orange candy.

 The finish is long and spicy, majoring on cinnamon, with more dark chocolate, overripe orange, and a hint of licorice.

Aged in a mixture of Madeira, muscatel, and port casks, with a final spell in first-fill bourbon barrels.

Warm caramel, spiced orange, peach blossom, and black pepper on the complex nose.

Nicely textured on the palate; initially fondant-sweet, then nutmeg, Jaffa orange, ginger, and milk chocolate emerge.

Relatively lengthy in the finish, with sultanas, leather, a hint of plain chocolate, and lingering black pepper.

Following on from its limited edition 21 year old release, Dalmore has introduced a 30 year old expression, with 888 numbered bottles being available.

Matured in a mix of Matusalem oloroso and Amoroso oloroso sherry butts sourced from the Gonzales Byass bodega.

  The nose is slightly meaty, with coffee, sherry, and stewed apple.

Supple on the palate, with dark, spicy orange, black currant cordial, and marzipan.

Spicy tannins kick in during the very long, fruity, finally mouth-drying finish.

Lush and fruity-the sherry cask aging is obvious-and it is balanced beautifully by the dry, spicy oak notes.

Through all this, there’s inviting notes of ginger, raisin, and a whiff of peat.

The latest single cask expression of 1991 Glen Scotia from Wemyss Malts has been matured for 22 years in a sherry butt, which yielded 807 bottles.

The nose provides sherry and cigar boxes, cherries, sultanas, raisins, orange peel, plum pudding, and finally warm leather.

Full bodied, with sherry on the palate, plus brine, dried fruit, bitter coffee, and polished old, dark oak.

Medium to long in the fruity finish, with salt, plain chocolate, and wood polish notes.

The first single cask release of GlenDronach for the U.S. by the new owners, and a nice one at that.

Silky in texture, polished, and clean on the palate, with light toffee, treacle, cherry bonbon, orange-soaked date nut cake, and chocolate-covered raisin.

Initially matured in recharred puncheons, then transferred for an unspecified period into virgin American oak casks.

The nose offers icing sugar and soft toffee, vanilla, clementine, and wood varnish.

More icing sugar, with orange and fudge on the palate, plus wood spice and an herbal note.

Fruity through the finish, while spice builds, with a hint of aniseed at the close.

An interesting alternative to the classic sherry-rich GlenDronach style.

A refill sherry hoggie has given a classic walnut color, and indeed notes of that nut as well.

Here’s Glenfarclas at its most dense, with savory, sun-dried tomato-like edges and sandalwood.

The mouth is elegant with a little heat, the sherry giving roasted almond, sweet plump dried fruits, and dried flowers.

Water brings out lightly gripping tannins (but, again, not aggressively) and good layering.

Glenglassaugh initially imported Massandra wine casks from the Crimea in 2010 for finishing purposes, and that was the first time the winery had allowed its wood to be exported.

Distilled in 1978, the Madeira-finished nose yields dates, sultanas, stewed fruit, caramel, a hint of smoke, and spices.

Smooth on the palate, with apricots, cocoa powder, oak, and lots of spice development.

Glenglassaugh has launched its first cask-finished whiskies, matured for an unspecified period in first- fill American oak casks before finishing for up to 2 years in secondary casks.

This is the pick of the quartet of expressions, with a nose of fragrant, fruity smoke, hand-rolling tobacco, and new leather.

Red berry fruits and woodsmoke feature on the palate, while the finish offers gentle peat smoke, cinnamon, and black pepper.

Probably the most highly-regarded malt in the regular Glengoyne lineup, the 17 year old represents a direct progression from its younger siblings.

A more concentrated palate of flavors has emerged…” Citrus and cedar notes on the slightly grassy nose, with a hint of plain chocolate.

Medium in body, with more plain chocolate notes, plus raisins, orange, vanilla, and malt.

Lengthy in the finish, with milky coffee, sherry, leather, and citrus spice.

This variant of Glengoyne replaces the popular 17 year old as part of an overhaul of the core range, and the maturation regime has included what the distillers describe as “a generous proportion of first-fill sherry casks.”

Milk chocolate, vanilla, melon, and grapefruit on the nose, with burgeoning dry sherry and fruitcake.

The palate is rich and well rounded, with cinnamon and ginger, almonds, orange marmalade, sweeter sherry, and caramel.

Spicy too, with notes of honeyed vanilla, peaches in cream, butterscotch, cinnamon, licorice (red and black), light nuttiness, and toasted oak on the finish.

Nice mouthfeel, well-balanced, and quite rich for such an elegant whisky.

Exotic aroma of tropical fruit (coconut, pineapple), vanilla, and honey.

On the palate: honey, vanilla, and tropical fruit up front, becoming dry, with subtly complex spice notes.

Lively on the nose for its age (and on the palate too -- the tell-tale oak emerges only towards the end).

Notes of creamy vanilla, barley sugar, coconut, pineapple, and general citrus notes throughout.

Dried spices (especially cinnamon) kick in mid-palate and continue into a lengthy, dry, polished oak finish.

Once again Lorne Mackillop demonstrates his talent for selecting whiskies with beautiful balance.

Sure, it shows many of the notes that I often find in Glenlivet (Speyside elegance, peachy vanilla, tropical fruit, floral and honeyed-malt notes), but I’m also picking up more subtle notes: dark chocolate, licorice root, dark fruit, perhaps even charcoal (especially on the finish), making the whisky a bit more complex and curiously attractive.

There’s no doubt that this is from Glenlivet; there’s still that pure combination of fruit and flowers, now given a little nudge toward a more concentrated expression: the flowers are dried and heathery, the fruits tinned pineapple, windfall apples.

Liquorous and tongue-clinging with custard tart notes before the autumn fruits come through.

A sense of the curtains being drawn and a settling in for the winter.

There are lots of complex wood spices in this whisky, and it is intensely deep and mature for such a young age.

It is exciting too, with notes of toasted oak, vanilla, and a hint of dark chocolate.

It’s a very textural, visceral whisky -- partly due to the chocolate malt, partly due to the casks used.

It’s dark in color for a Glenmorangie, and viscous on the palate, with interwoven notes of dark chocolate, ground coffee, pot still rum, and spice (cinnamon, nutmeg), followed by dry polished leather, tobacco leaf, and a roasted walnut finish.

This is a fun whisky, and earns bonus points for being unique in flavor.

But I think its dry, slightly assertive finish detracts from what otherwise is a thrilling, dynamic journey.

Glenmorangie enters the world of peated whiskies (like everyone else these days it seems — not that I’m complaining).

Richly textured layers of sweetness (vanilla, toffee, milk chocolate), fruit (tangerine, orchard fruit — especially ripe cherry), roasted nuts, wild morels, a hint of menthol, and gentle smoke.

Certainly entertaining, even if the whisky doesn’t always seem to know what it wants to be.

The soft sweetness mid-palate is balanced nicely by dried spice and smoke on the finish.

Previously offered as a 12 year old, it now has an extra three years of secondary maturation, after a decade in ex-bourbon casks.

Rich and sweet on the palate, notably fruity, with spicy orange and brittle toffee.

Medium length finish, with milk chocolate-coated ginger and lingering toffee.

Artein is the third release in Glenmorangie’s Private Edition range, with ‘artein’ being Gaelic for stone.

The expression comprises two-thirds 15 year old and one-third 21 year old whisky, finished in ‘Super Tuscan’ wine casks.

Briefly pear drops, then vanilla on the nose, with developing peaches and apricots, shot through with mild ginger.

Viscous, mouth-coating, intense, dark fruits, spice, aniseed, and late onset of cloves and blackcurrant cough medicine on the palate.

Tùsail—apparently Gaelic for ‘originary’—is the sixth release in Glenmorangie’s Private Edition collection.

It was distilled using floor-malted Maris Otter winter barley, once ubiquitous in the British brewing industry but now practically a rare breed.

Viscous on the palate, with poached pears, cloves, nutmeg, and polished oak.

Tarlogan is the third and most recent release in Glenmorangie’s Legends Collection.

Some of the component whisky had been matured in virgin oak casks, while the remainder was aged in bourbon barrels.

A hint of freshly-dug soil on the very early nose, then toffee apples, malt, and vanilla kick in.

The smooth palate focuses on coconut and more vanilla, with kumquat and lime.

Part of Glenmorangie’s Legends collection, this was finished in casks that previously held sweet French white wines.

Sweet red berries on the somewhat shy nose, with developing low-key honey and vanilla.

Nicely textured, with a palate of honey, caramel, milk chocolate, shortbread, and lots of lively spice.

Lengthy in the finish, with more caramel and milk chocolate, plus strawberry and ginger.

Heavier, richer, and more ripe that the 1987 Vintage reviewed above.

It is very creamy and mouth-coating, with layers of sweetness (vanilla, caramel, light toffee, white chocolate), fruit (sultana, plum), along with a good underpinning of oak spice.

Style: Speyside single malt scotch Color: Amber gold Aroma: Full and creamy.

Notes of vanilla, honey, and assorted fruits up front, followed by spicy oak notes, with a dried fruit finish.

Richer, thicker, and more lush than the 1975 vintage reviewed here.

Fallen orchard fruit, sticky toffee pudding, and nuts, with underlying suggestions of date cake.

The nose is redolent with the smells of autumn jam — slowly stewing dark berry fruits — but there’s a hint of hazelnut adding a drier edge alongside some waxed paper.

This constantly changing array of aromas is very Glenrothes, as is the vanilla lift when water is added, which comes with added cordite.

The palate is very sweet, filled with fruit syrups and even some dried rose petal.

The hue is deep amber and the nose is equally resonant and rich.

This is Glenrothes in its most muscular guise, so that while you have the normal layers of fruity complexity, there is an extra weight.

Think of citrus peels, sticky dates, walnuts, and fruit leather.

As befits an elder of the church, this has a serious attitude, which with the youngest component being 18 years old isn’t a surprise.

Full-bodied, but with elegance, not bludgeoning power, this is a refined Rothes: malted barley, creamy oak, oxidative depths.

The palate is unctuous with little hints of geranium and becomes slightly funky with water, though I’d go neat to get the full effect of bitter orange and sweet honeycomb.

The youngest of the Manse Brae triumvirate, and also the freshest.

Here is Rothes at its liveliest, with sweet cereal and the typical spiciness of the distillery undercut by citrus peels, dessert apples, and hot malted milk.

On the tongue it is quite delicate, but it is how it behaves mid-palate which is the killer, just stopping and allowing the fruits to liquefy in the center of the tongue.

Sappy, with waxed fruit, golden raisin, plum, and nectarine rock candy.

This limited edition 16 year old release is named after a collie dog that belonged to a distillery manager pictured in a 1905 photograph of Glenturret staff.

Malt and milk chocolate, dried apricots, and subtle spice on the floral nose, with a hint of worn leather and, ultimately, ripe pears.

Supple and rounded on the palate, with sweet spices, honey, black pepper, dark fruit, and coffee notes.

Finally, bitter orange and plain chocolate in the medium-length finish.

The sherry is clean, and is only one facet of this multi-dimensional whisky.

Notes of lush orange and apricot, soaked in molasses and maple syrup.

Honey, creamy vanilla, caramel, sultana, and toasted almond along with a hint of lemon gum drops and banana.

Quite floral, too -- lavender, heather -- with a gentle, lingering finish.

A very soothing, mouth-coating whisky with excellent balance, while still quite fresh.

Indeed, a very more-ish whisky -- and sneaky in how it grows on you with each sip.

Pear drops, green apples, lots of toffee, and more spice on the nose than in the Sigurd expression; also fresher and fruitier.

Voluptuous mouthfeel, with sherry, toffee, vanilla, nutmeg, and a wisp of fragrant smoke.

Toffee remains in the finish, with notes of cocoa powder, smoky oak, and citrus spice.

Odin is the fourth and final release in Highland Park’s Valhalla Collection.

It has been aged in a combination of first-fill Spanish oak sherry casks and refill hogsheads, with the former predominating.

The nose yields cocoa powder, insistent spice, subtle sweet smoke, heather honey, and rum-and-raisin fudge.

Rich and fruity on the palate, with lively dark spices, plus treacle and peat smoke.

The lingering finish initially offers smoky sherry, then dries with licorice and oak.

Compared to Superstition, Prophecy seems richer, heavier, sweeter, deeper, leafier, with more tarry notes.

I’m also picking up more spice (cinnamon, anise, dark chocolate) and some fruit (lime, mandarin orange, green apple), with a subtle yet intriguing suggestion of burnt popcorn.

Prophecy is also bottled at 46% and not chill-filtered—which I think brings out more subtle nuances and texture in the whisky.

The only tradeoff is that I’m picking up less of the Jura spirit and less sea characteristics.

But this is a small tradeoff, considering how much more you’re getting with Prophecy.

This expression of Jura is by leading London wine and spirits merchant Berry Bros. & Rudd, and was bottled in the company’s Berry’s Own range at 35 years of age after maturation in sherry hogshead #889.

The nose offers sweet sherry and caramel, sultanas, cinnamon, and rum baba, with an elusive wisp of smoke.

Full-bodied, very fruity on the palate, with mixed spices, pine cones, and old sherry notes.

Classic leafy, smoky notes, along with some tarry rope, emerge on the palate and maintain a steady keel as they work their way through an ocean of vanilla malt.

Certainly an enjoyable Lagavulin, but I still like the standard 16 year old better.

Peat smoke, damp earth, seaweed, balanced by a maple syrup sweetness on the nose and palate.

It’s a brave person who tries to persuade a malt like Lagavulin to go into a different direction.

Indeed, even PX casks, from the sweetest fortified wine of all, can’t fully obscure the distillery’s character, just give it a raisined coating.

The creosote turns to tar and licorice, while there’s Syrah-like sootiness, and damson.

This release is slightly less sweet than in the past and is the better for it, though I still prefer my Lagavulin relatively ‘naked.’

The nose goes straight to the shore with mineral and salt, but it’s also sweet, which allows it to be fresh, lively, yet balanced.

The palate delivers some menthol, bay laurel, more brininess, a hint of malt, and Parma violet.

Everything remains very breezy, with peat smoke being blown from a kiln into salt-laden air.

Pungent and medicinal in personality, with gobs of peat, tar, iodine, brine, and seaweed.

A gentle vanilla sweetness tries to tame this savage beast, but it is no match.

One of the most challenging-yet rewarding-whiskies in the entire world.

What Cantillion Lambic is to beer, Laphroaig Original Cask Strength is to whisky.

Malty sweet flavors up front, followed by peat and seaweed, then taken over by a huge rush of peat smoke that never seems to end.

A sweetness stays with the whisky throughout to help balance the peat smoke.

Smoked fish, in fact, with some linked oily elegance, along with touches of hot tar and a cooked agave quality, adding a slightly sour/sweet element; then come poached pear and pepper.

The palate is rootier, but always with this deep, clinging texture.

Water gives the sweetness more space before the big phenols come powering back.

Also known as St. Magdalene, this Lowland distillery which closed down for good in 1983 is becoming increasingly more difficult to find.

And when one does become available, it will be pushing 20 years old or older, like this one.

When young, Linlithgow often exhibits a freshness and drinkability, with a gentle maltiness and often hay or grassy notes for complexity.

I was concerned that this whisky would have too much oak influence, given how old it is and how delicate the whisky can be.

While those years in a hogshead add some dry spicy notes, they are never excessive.

Instead, they add a complexity that blends in nicely with notes of creamy malt, vanilla, lemon gum drops, grass and hay.

I am particularly impressed by the evolution of flavors on the palate and the length and depth of its dry, spicy finish.

One of the better bottlings from this Lowland distillery which closed in 1983.

The whisky is balanced, the flavors clean, with no hint of excessive oak.

Bourbon cask-aging offers up notes of vanilla wafer, along with coconut cream, honey, and a touch of caramel.

Bright fruit (lemon meringue, pineapple, apricot) keeps the whisky lively, and suggestions of hay and linseed offer continued entertainment.

If you are looking for a Linlithgow (AKA St. Magdalene) to purchase before the whisky becomes impossible to find, I can recommend this one.

Sweet aromas of confectioner’s sugar, toasted marshmallow, honey, and coconut.

Its flavors mirror its aroma, with a pleasing creamy, almost buttery, texture and soft, gentle finish.

Like its elder sibling, Loch Lomond 12 year old is presented in non-chill filtered form, and in this case, matured in a mix of bourbon, refill, and recharred casks.

Ripe apricots, vanilla, and a suggestion of peat smoke on the nose.

  The full palate offers oranges and pears, plus developing spicy malt and mild peatiness.

A rare beast of 100% malted barley mash distilled in a Coffey still.

Dried grasses, butterscotch toffee, honey spread across hot toast, fresh green apples, custard creams, and peppercorns leap from the glass.

From the sweet apple, lemon, orange, and honey, it fleshes out with toffee apple, sweet vanilla, and cinnamon stick, concluding with a little more grain character and spice on the finish.

This 11 year old bottling of Longrow from Springbank distillery was matured for seven years in refill bourbon casks before being filled into cabernet sauvignon hogsheads for a final four years.

The nose offers buttery smoked haddock, coal tar soap, citrus fruit, and new leather, with background notes of soft peat.

Mouth coating, with rich peat on the palate, plus fruity spice and developing licorice notes.

Long in the finish, with persistent peat smoke and, finally, red currants.

You’ll find bright fruit (tangerine, passion fruit, lemon) followed by subtle, sweeter fruit (coconut, honeydew melon, banana, and apple crumb pie).

Resinous, minty oak notes and a hefty viscosity give the whisky some structure, while floral notes (lavender, rose petals) and gentle vanilla expose a softer side to the whisky.

The whisky is quite fruity (green grape, orange, tangerine, and dark cherry), with balancing notes of vanilla, roasted nuts, and a hint of peat.

Still, I feel the 15 year old Fine Oak edition is better and, at $65, one-tenth the cost.

When approached from light to rich, you can see how the driver of the range is oxidation rather than just the addition of wood.

Here are stewed black cherries, red plums, and blueberries, but with the purity and freshness of Amber and Gold.

The mental image is of a country house in autumn: clay on boots, candle wax, resin, allspice, peels, those perfumed fruits, and the whiff of an artist’s palette.

fruits.

Similar in tone to some old Caribbean rums with liqueur chocolate and Friar’s Balsam.

‘Old style’ Macallan, and another which, while strong, is best neat.

Released exclusively for the U.S., this is the first bottling in an annual series celebrating what Macallan terms its “…unrivalled commitment to the mastery of wood and spirit.”

Matured in oloroso sherry-seasoned American and European oak casks.

Honey, toffee, vanilla, nutmeg, ginger, and lively oak on the palate.

This whisky shows the true potential of Mortlach -- and at a youthful age, too!

Chewy toffee with almonds, vanilla fudge, ripe barley, and nougat, with underlying pit fruits, dried spice, and a hint of leather on the finish.

This is the second travel retail-exclusive expression of Old Pulteney to use the registration of a Wick fishing vessel in its name, in this case the Isabella Fortuna, a herring drifter dating from 1890.

This expression bears no age statement and was matured in bourbon casks.

Floral and fragrant on the nose, with honey, vanilla, zest of lemon, and a hint of salt.

The palate features fresh fruit salad, coconut, and sherbet liveliness.

WK217 is the latest in Pulteney’s Travel Retail-exclusive range of releases named after the registrations of fishing vessels.

This expression has been matured in a mix of Spanish and American oak sherry butts.

Fig rolls, black treacle, sultanas, and a hint of cinnamon on the nose.

Smooth and oily on the palate, with soft spices, before deeper and darker sherry notes arrive.

The finish is relatively long, with sherry and spice, then final spiky licorice notes.

Navigator honors Old Pulteney’s seafaring heritage and promotional links with matters marine.

The expression carries no age statement, is non-chill filtered, and has been matured in a mixture of bourbon and sherry casks.

The nose features vanilla, sherry, American cream soda, ginger, orange peel, and cocoa powder.

Mouth-tingling spices: ginger and nutmeg on the palate, with more oranges, and cocoa.

Dries slowly, slightly powdery, with persistent citrus fruit, and a hint of brine.

An unusual vintage bottling of Old Pulteney, in that maturation occurred in a mix of American bourbon casks and Spanish sherry casks that previously held heavily-peated whisky.

The nose opens with a whiff of ozone; then lemon, vanilla, and coconut appear, along with fleeting wood smoke.

Intense tropical fruitiness merges with milk chocolate, lemon sorbet, and lively spices on the palate.

Spicy milk chocolate with a citric and softly peaty tang in the finish.

Old Pulteney’s 40 year old comprises spirit from three sherry hogsheads and one bourbon barrel.

Just 493 bottles of the distillery’s oldest expression to date have been released, offered at cask strength and not chill filtered.

The nose is soft and fragrant, with peaches in syrup, toffee, cinnamon, and aerosol wood polish.

Early intense orchard fruits on the palate, then nutmeg, cinnamon and black coffee.

This 2017 release spent 22 years in bourbon casks before a final 3 years in oloroso sherry Spanish oak butts.

Bright fruits on the nose: orange, lemon, and lime, with vanilla, soft toffee, and plain chocolate.

Supple and silky on the palate, with sweet orange notes, more vanilla, and cocoa powder.

Cocoa, nutmeg, dry sherry, and wood spices in the lengthy finish.

This refill sherry butt-matured, cask strength variant of the Lowland classic Rosebank was distilled in December 1990.

Sweet, with malt and black cherries, plus a hint of new leather.

Quite viscous in the mouth; nutmeg, dark chocolate, and toffee on the palate.

Distilled in 1992, a year before Rosebank fell silent, this 21 year old expression was matured in refill American oak casks.

The fragrant nose yields milk chocolate, peaches, apricots, nutmeg, and toffee bonbons.

Spicy and mildly herbal on the palate, with icing sugar and a suggestion of dark chocolate.

The finish is medium in length, fruity, with gentle spice, coffee, and developing oaky dryness.

As part of its program to make available single malts from all five of its Scotch whisky distilleries, Bacardi subsidiary John Dewar & Sons has now released a trio of bottlings from Royal Brackla, situated near Nairn in the Scottish Highlands.

The 12, 16, and 21 year old expressions are initially available in ten markets, Including the UK, U.S., and Canada.

Richer and more complex than its younger sibling, with waxy peel, glacé cherries, sherry, sultanas, and custard.

Silky smooth in the mouth, with marshmallows, milk chocolate, medium-sweet sherry, and stem ginger.

Tingling spices allied to darkening chocolate and a touch of smoke in the medium to long finish.

Very powerful and quite different from the 10 year old, 46% bottling reviewed below; this tastes as if it is taken entirely from bourbon oak-aged Springbank.

There’s fresh brine, creamy vanilla, honey, and coconut throughout, and it lacks the waxed fruit nature of its sibling.

Very clean -- and quite polished too, for such a powerful whisky.

Nice to see stocks distilled after the 1980s ‘silent period’ turning 18 years old.

The sherry influence here is complementary, but not overpowering.

Notes of toffee almond, vanilla fudge, chocolate-coated citrus, bramble, and candied ginger.

Polished leather, dried spice, and a hint of brine on the finish dries it out nicely and keeps it interesting.

Not quite as dynamic and complex as some of those legendary pre-1980s Springers, but it’s smooth, well-rounded, and more-ish.

A good dose of sherry here, but there’s plenty of Springbank character coming through too!

Gobs of ripe, red berried fruit (strawberry, rhubarb, red currant, raspberry), especially on the nose, along with raisin.

Coconut and brine emerge occasionally on the palate and linger on the finish.

A very nice whisky, although I wonder what it would taste like with just a little less sherry influence?

A round of single cask Springers matured completely (not finished) in various wine casks for the U.S. market.

All four are solid efforts — it’s really a matter of personal preference.

A general comment: most of the single cask releases are matured in some sort of wine or rum cask.

While this is nice, I would love to see several single cask, cask strength, and fully-matured ex-bourbon barrel bottlings offered for a change.

The freshest of the bunch, chock full of Springbank character.

Floral, with plenty of fruit (green grapes, kiwi, apple tart) on a bed of honeyed malt.

Springbank has released a limited edition of 9,000 bottles of whisky distilled in November 2001, matured in small casks (traditionally known as rundlets or kilderkins), and bottled in January 2012.

The small casks have left an impression of accelerated maturity, with coal smoke, cloves, young oak, and caramel on the rich nose.

The palate is big and bold, with a sprinkling of salt, then more youthful wood, milk chocolate, and honey, while the finish is long and slightly tarry.

This is the seventh batch of 12 year old cask strength Springbank to appear, being bottled early in 2014.

Some of the component whisky was matured in oloroso sherry casks.

The nose blends maritime notes with Christmas cake fruits, vanilla pods, and overt sherry.

Viscous in the mouth, with cowsheds and soft peat smoke, plus spice, caramel, and a hint of sweet sherry.

The no-holds-barred finish presents a big blast of smoke, root ginger, and freshly-dug peat.

This expression was distilled in 2003 and after undergoing a period of finishing in amoroso sherry casks it was bottled in 2014.

Fleeting green apples on the nose, before sweetening with figs, sultanas, red berries, and chili.

Full-bodied on the palate, with spicy smoke, dark chocolate, peaches, and Jaffa orange; the additional fruitiness courtesy of the amoroso cask influence.

Long and softly smoky in the finish, with ginger and lingering fruit notes.

Like its Ledaig stablemate, this Tobermory is offered non-chill filtered at cask strength.

Full bodied, with a palate of citrus fruit and soft spices, aniseed, and developing tannins.

Very similar in flavor profile to the Tomintoul 16, reviewed below, but better.

Also, on the palate, the caramel flavors are a bit darker (bordering on toffee) and the whisky’s finish is longer and a shade drier.

The subtle sherry adds an additional level of complexity when compared to the standard 10 year old, taking Tomintoul to a new level.

Rich and creamy, with well-balanced notes of toffee, vanilla fudge, toasted nuts, and elegant fruit.

A new, beefed-up version of the 18 year old, with a higher alcohol level and (seemingly) more sherry influence.

I must say that I really enjoyed the previous expression, rating it an 87 for its roundness and elegance.

Whether you like it or its predecessor comes down to preference and mood.

Notes of toffee apple, pancakes drizzled with maple syrup, date nut cake, ripe fruit, and roasted nuts, all dusted with cinnamon, vanilla, and cocoa.

Aged in a refill sherry puncheon, and the sherry is evident in appearance and on the palate.

Soft and sweet, with caramel-coated mixed nuts, toffee apple, rhum agricole, currant (red and black), plum, cinnamon, and surprising brisk mint (especially toward the finish).

A pleasing, non-aggressive expression of a mature, sherried whisky.

Tomatin has introduced a permanently-available 36 year old expression, and the first batch comprises 800 bottles.

Matured in a combination of bourbon and oloroso sherry casks, this expression has not been chill-filtered.

Milk chocolate and vanilla on the early nose, with background apricots, malt, and ginger.

Good mouth-feel, lively sweet fruits, cloves, and more ginger on the palate.

Long in the finish, drying slowly to fruity licorice and plain chocolate.

Ludicrous amounts of white/milk chocolate and macadamia nut, with green fennel underneath.

With water, it opens into dark chocolate chunks (see what I mean?) and cappuccino.

One sip makes you worry you’re putting on weight, such is the thickness of its impact.

Okay, it’s more about the wood rather than the distillery, but you can’t deny that it puts a smile on your face.

Bunnahabhain, along with Bowmore, is Islay’s greatest user of ex-sherry casks; a throwback to the days when it was part of Highland Distillers.

Its rich, thick, and ginger-accented spirit matches the attention of European oak extremely well.

In this red tea-colored example, you have resin, saddle soap, ginseng, and treacle toffee on the nose, and a fusillade of roasted spices on the palate before the finish reveals sweet gingerbread.

Just 279 bottles of this 22 year old single cask Glen Scotia have been released by Wemyss Malts, with maturation taking place in a bourbon cask.

Fleetingly, very sweet, crunchy apples on the nose, then caramel, milk chocolate, sherbet dips, plus a hint of brine.

The palate is sweet and peppery, with spicy toffee, grapefruit, melon, and walnuts.

The finish is medium in length, spicy, with table salt in the tail.

Highly fragrant and citric, mixing dried and sweet orange peels, moist sultana fruitcake.

Pretty and elegant in the mouth, where there’s orange barley water, mint, and crystallized ginger on top of a thick, honeyed delivery before the classic ‘Rothes sweet spices come through.

The Wemyss range — overseen by Susan Colville — has been quietly building a deserved reputation for being among the most consistently enjoyable single cask bottlings.

This new example hails from the mighty Benrinnes distillery, but shows a milder side to its make — there is indeed ginger aplenty, along with cumin, crystallized fruit, and jellied peach, but behind is a deep earthy and slightly leathery note typical of ‘The Ben.’

A divine, lilting nose of exotic summery fruits that brings a smile to your face.

Split papaya, fleshy mango, and candied peel join freshly squeezed OJ and sugar-dusted marshmallows.

The thick, syrupy texture fizzes attractively on the palate with flavors of warm marmalade on buttered granary toast.

After some mid-palate heat, there is flavored sherbet candy, mint, and burnt orange on the finish.

Thick orange peels, grapefruit, lime zest, and Starburst taffy candies keep the nose of this premium expression within the purview of the Black Bull character.

Layers of vanilla custard, mellow fruit, and ginger snaps quench an initial rush of sharp citrus.

Sponge cake creaminess abounds though the spices nibble at the edges, leaving a long, sweet, citrus finish.

Water nips the more acidic elements while leaving the citrus flavors intact.

You’d hardy expect Kilchoman to be able to spare casks for independent bottlings, but somehow TWE’s Sukhinder Singh has persuaded Anthony Wills to part with one of his precious babies.

It exhibits classic Kilchoman notes of clove and fresh scallop, backed with subtle peat, chamomile, and lint.

With water, a typically young, peaty aroma of rubber develops (so drink it neat).

A single oloroso cask bottling, so an interesting comparison with the Loch Gorm (see below).

The cask has more of an influence here, with plummy fruits, fig rolls, and Medjool dates.

The smoke is restrained and foggy, allowing some seashore breezes to come through.

The palate reverses this, with the smoke rolling in first, then the soft dark and sweet fruits, treacle, and garam masala.

Distilled in 2012, this was aged in casks sourced from the Douro Valley in Portugal.

Quite reticent on the early nose, with developing strawberries, vanilla custard, new oak, and subtle smoke.

The palate offers smoky red wine notes, with ashy peat, spices, and tingling black pepper becoming more apparent.

Sweet cherry fruitiness lingers in the relatively long finish with prickly spices.

Matured in bourbon casks, this expression offers a sweet, pleasing nose of honey, icing sugar, toffee bonbons, and orange peel.

Medium-bodied, with barley sugar, soft oak, nectarine, and lychee.

Arguably the most successful of the Famous Grouse extensions (well, the competition includes Snow Grouse, for Pete's sake!), the Black Grouse brought ever-popular peat into the mix, a move that was followed by a peatier version of Johnnie Walker Black Label.

But this scores most for a chicory/coffee and liquid licorice undercarpet that makes it very palatable indeed.

As with its sherry wood-matured sibling, this 10 year old release comprises 9,000 bottles and was distilled using the same lightly peated malt and bottled without chill filtration.

Lemongrass, a pinch of salt, wood smoke, and ginger snaps on the nose.

Tropical fruits on the soft, slightly oily palate, with a slight underpinning of spicy smoke.

Distilled in 2004, this 11 year old sherry cask-matured expression from Glengyle in Campbeltown is one of two final releases under the Work in Progress banner.

Fragrant wood fires, fruity old leather, damp tweed, sherry, malt, and autumn berries on the nose.

The palate is oily, rich, and rounded, with zesty spice, then peaches in syrup and sweet smokiness.

The finish is long and warming with chili, licorice, and worn leather.

After six ‘Work in Progress’ releases, Kilkerran from Glengyle Distillery has finally come of age with this core expression.

It comprises 70% whisky from first-fill bourbon casks and 30% from sherry casks.

Floral on the nose, with honey and a hint of brine, then peaty fruit notes develop.

The palate is confident and oily, slightly earthy, with tinned peaches, black pepper, cinnamon, smoke, and a suggestion of medicine chests.

The finish is relatively long, with pepper, licorice, and drying oak.

The original Singleton, seemingly discarded as a single malt, rides back defiantly with this bottling.

The start shows cherrystone, but there’s an immediate deepening into mature notes of roasted chestnut, varnish, and sweet leather, but always sufficient caramel sweetness to balance.

The palate starts sweetly and any grip is dissolved with a drop of water, which also extends what otherwise is a quick fade.

Distilled in 1984, just a few months before the distillery closed, this was aged in refill American oak hogsheads.

A whiff of early earthiness gives way to pear drops, honey, vanilla, and resin on the nose.

Pears, pineapple, caramel, and vanilla on the slightly waxy, spicy palate.

Slowly drying in the medium-length finish, with peppery licorice and a hint of char.

This bottling of triple-distilled Hazelburn comprises spirit produced in 2003 and matured in unusually small casks known as rundlets and kilderkins.

Malt, chocolate, and honey figure on the nose, along with a contrasting marine note in the background.

Unctuous and rich on the palate, with soft fruit, almonds, brittle toffee, and lots of spice.

The finish is lengthy and earthy, with caramel and vanilla notes ultimately being superseded by oak and sea salt.

A robust Speysider — and very tactile too (clinging to the palate), but with no excessive oak.

Vanilla and some dark chocolate notes along with coating (yet ironically dry-ish) honey notes.

But its biggest flavor note is citrus — particularly lemon, along with some tangerine and a hint of pineapple — which helps to cut through the thickness.

Good depth, with dried spice, polished oak, and a wisp of smoke on the finish.

These days the mighty Mortlach is a known quantity, but Diageo’s two other meaty sites—Benrinnes and Dailuaine—remain in the shadows.

This is big, boisterous, and sherried, but there’s less of the gravy-browning elements you get from the other two; at Dailuaine it is fruit that is promoted alongside Seville orange, treacle, and the inevitable raisin and date.

Master blender Sandy Hyslop has deliberately attempted to capture Christmas in the glass, and so it should come as no surprise to find a rich, full, and flavorsome whisky with sherry trifle, red berries, orange fruit, and mince pie filling in the mix.

It's put together with grace and style, mixes well, and is that rare beast — a blend that can be enjoyed on its own.

Up close, this displays more sherry and dried fruits, particularly raisins, currants, and sultanas, with a deep strawberry note and dollop of marmalade.

Quite pungent, and that resonates rewardingly at the back of the throat.

The juicy mandarin flavor has some tartness, but then there’s cake mix, gingersnaps, clove, and toasted spices, though it gravitates back to the marmalade.

The finish has dry, bitter orange, ginger, and spice, with a hint of lime zest.

Baked almond desserts liberally splashed with cream, light caramel, malted milk, and an invading cloud of smoke from newly ignited twigs: a lucky strike from a forest survivalist.

On the palate, it is soft and blushing, with marmalade and warm butter, ground ginger, moving to chocolate orange, toffee, and Ovaltine.

A whirl of spices and chunky chocolate round off this blend’s finish stylishly.

Very typical of old grain whiskies: light in body and floral, with soothing vanilla and a mélange of tropical fruit (mandarin in syrup, honey-kissed pineapple, banana, and coconut cream).

The better examples, like this one, are not dominated by dry oak on the finish.

This potent grain whisky from a refill hoggie bears ripe pears, green apples, vanilla sugar, polished horse chestnuts, and a waft of acetone.

Neat, there is sweet fudge, runny caramels, and heat, but natural dilution dissipates the sweetness to boiled candy with faint cocoa.

At this strength, it really takes water generously, illuminating fruitiness and softening the heat.

It was matured in a sherry butt following distillation in 2005: savory, beefy, roasted meat juices, brisket bark, balsamic vinegar, new strips of colored plasticine, and chocolatey Guatemalan coffee beans.

A sherried, soft, and wispy opener with a whiff of ginger, clove, plum, charred notes, raisins, and black bun: this youngster can handle itself alright.

A cloying, clingy finish with heat, sweet sherry notes, and spices.

We get off on the wrong foot with that vegetal note common to certain Strathclyde bottlings.

It quickly blows over to release candied lemon and orange slices, fresh-baked honey biscuits, eucalyptus, clove, and eventually some fresh breath mints.

Divinely sweet orange and lemon puddings, caramelized sugars close to burning, and soor plooms.

Despite the lemon sweetness at the fringes, there remains a central core of mint and clove.

The question with this sort of blended malt is whether the whole outperforms the sum of its parts.

This is a big, rich, oily, and peaty whisky, suggesting both the Ledaig—the peated version of Tobermory and often a bland malt—and the Bowmore—capable of big smoke notes when it wants to—are firing on all cylinders.

There's not much subtlety to it, but it's enjoyable all the same.€40

Big Peat looks incredibly pale in the glass this year, but his message is undiminished.

Antiseptic, pine-scented floor cleaner, and an enveloping cloud of peat smoke with underlying peach and faint dabs of lemon.

Sugary sweet, with lemon lozenges, light vanilla, caramel, and dark toffee, while a bowling, somersaulting smoky element gleefully turns cartwheels in the mouth.

I was surprised to find that Grant’s blends were noticeable by their absence in the U.S.

But with the purchase of Tuthilltown in New York and Tullamore Dew in Ireland, that is slowly changing; and here's proof.

Beautiful, honeyed, rich, but the 40% ABV makes it the whisky equivalent of a radio DJ cutting off “Freebird” before the solo at the end.

Still great, and indeed better than most competition, but not the classic it could be.

The style and class of the youngest was inspired by the classic elegance of Paris in the 1920s.

Comprising Kininvie and Girvan married in tuns of Portuguese oak, this is pure, creamy goodness bathing in lemon meringue pie, vanilla tablet, and fresh oak shavings.

A buttery-soft texture, the back of the palate kicks off with honey explosions, nougat, and toffee, backed with a distinct oakiness to remind you that it’s got much more to offer than just vanilla playfulness.

Lemon and lime zest, stewed fruits drizzled in caramel, granola, butterscotch, and refined oak tones on the nose.

The meatiness in Cragganmore’s new make spirit has long since mellowed in the cask.

Light orange, vanilla, honey, and those nuggets of hard sherbet that spark up on the tongue.

The second phase opens up toffee notes, wood spice, flapjacks, and ends with nougat and orange peel.

A smashing, rich sherry nose showcases rosehip, elderberry, scorched oak, pipe tobacco, roasted coriander seeds, and damp dunnage warehouses.

The core of the flavor is the lush orange jelly hidden in McVitie’s Jaffa cakes, combined with clove, malt, treacle, dried mango, and ginger.

Water draws out stronger performances from the malty notes, together with some red berry characteristics.

Let it roll around the mouth, it’s terrific stuff (Batch 1, 148 bottles).

Lighter in character than the 50 year old, batch 4 offers aromas of caramel, artisanal chocolate, red fruits, polished brogues, and a fluttering of Asian spices.

It has plenty of personality, with molasses, chocolate treacle cake, date, fig, bramble, and black currant, though those spices return, and then it gets rather woody.

Like a throwback to childhood: fruity lollipops, Love Hearts, and gobstoppers.

Stewed apple, crusty bread, and dry roasted coriander seeds add more dimension to the nose.

The palate has toffee, orange peel, dates, and briefly flirts with chocolate and coffee, though this grain has mouth-drawing astringency and savory spices to balance the sweetness.

drop of Talisker has found its way into the mix.

Whether it has or not, this is stirring stuff, non-chill filtered so that the flavors burst forth.

As you might expect, it’s rugged with brine and chili, giving it a distinctive spice edge.

But the delivery is a caramel fudge delight, with luxury chocolate praline in there too.

This example of Rosebank was distilled in March 1992, a year before the distillery’s closure, and bottled in December 2013.

The nose is light and mildly floral, with ripe pears, honey, and vanilla.

Firm and fruity on the surprisingly full palate, with a sprinkling of white pepper, plus summer berries and caramel.

Tropical fruit, soft spices, and benign oak in the finish, with a final flourish of licorice.

As it opens, so this gentle complexity grows, and gives a sense of some substance.

The palate is creamy and needs a drop of water to reveal the acid/sweet flavor of white currant, and a hint of marzipan.

A classic example of a light whisky—and a distillery—which could easily be overlooked.

A dense, suffocating fog of peat smoke, sea salt, dry seaweed on the high tide, and lemon-scented candles.

A supple, silky texture of lemon mousse, baked apple, vanilla, cinnamon, ginger, and a massive rush of pepper.

Hold this in your mouth for as long as possible; the flavor delivery is impressively long and constantly evolving.

Hot, drying finish, and, frankly, a relief from the peppery assault on the palate.

A 15 year old port cask-matured Ben Nevis that is as genre-defying as it gets.

Deep port notes combine with strong iodine, honey, and malt in an inviting nose.

This whisky simply roars on the palate, with big jammy fruit combined with salt, iodine, and a dash of smoke.

Everything comes together in the mid-palate, with an alluring core of ginger, honey, and malt.

A long, flavorful finish wraps up a whisky with unique character and unmistakable appeal.

Distilled in September 2007 and matured in a first-fill bourbon barrel (#5315), this is a fine example of how good a relatively youthful Speyside malt can be, given the right cask.

Soft and fragrant on the nose, with lemongrass, ginger snaps, and light toffee notes.

A spicy finish offers cinnamon, milk chocolate, and lingering citrus fruits.

Distilled in October 1995, this single cask was aged in a refill hogshead (#10206).

Primrose, ginger, cedar spice, and malt on the nose, with a hint of salt and background heather; complex.

Slightly oily on the palate, with orchard fruits, milk chocolate, a suggestion of brine, and developing cloves.

Dries quite rapidly in the finish, with more cloves and light oak tannins.

The nose opens with brine, fresh pine, sage, and sweet antiseptic.

Peat, ginger, black pepper, lime, and lemon notes develop in time.

Citrus fruits, caramel, and a peat-fueled barbecue on the palate, with background dark berries.

The finish is medium in length, warming, and spicy, with plain chocolate and drying, crumbly peat.

Distilled in 2006 and aged 11 years in an oloroso hogshead (#101751).

The nose offers butterscotch, sultanas, and developing caramel notes.

Smooth and sweet on the palate, with banana, figs, malt, and a hint of sherry in the background.

Medium to long in the finish, with a suggestion of lemon and insistent fruity spices.

Red apple, cherry skins, strawberry, raspberry, Eccles cake, malt loaf, and warming spices; there’s a lot to get your nose into here.

A finely structured dram, with soft leather, rhubarb, Bramley apple, cherryade, fresh Victoria plum, pepper, and muted ginger deliver sustained flavors.

Given the distillery closures in 1983, there could be some interesting components in here.

William Grant is making pioneering efforts to develop Girvan as a single grain whisky brand, with more to come.

The aromas beckon with masses of buttery vanilla notes, fresh apple, cinnamon stick bundles, dark peel, and chocolate pralines.

The creamy, unctuous texture packs in white chocolate, citrus, lime, chewy caramels, and pineapple, with soft American oak characteristics.

One of the tastiest grains on the market: expensive, but still, it’s patently very good.

You can feel the power, taut and straining, underneath the sweet nose of powdered sugar, sliced banana in custard, packing straw from tea chests, apple fritters, and sweet oak.

There’s instant gratification, as this colossal whisky is fit to burst with honey, tropical fruits, apple, melon, and strawberry candy.

Water adds shafts of sweetness to the nose and more jamminess to the palate.

Made in Glasgow in the fall of 1988 and delivered at perfect drinking strength: they’ve bottled sunshine.

A wild aromatic opening — anise, sweet cicely, even a hint of wormwood — with more oak than the 21 year old, but not in a dominating fashion, rather just a framing device.

Still fresh and acidic, with touches of a bridal bouquet, freshly baked warm sponge cake, walnut flesh, and, with water, a little bread-and-butter pudding.

The acidity gives it a zippy, clean palate zestiness with cumin and angelica.

Treacle tarts, black bun, and polished antique furniture, with fainter accents of dark chocolate, espresso, and delicate smoke flowing freely from the glass.

Initially, chocolate-coated coffee beans, then it blossoms into dried fig, date, with a developing deep, tangy chocolate orange note, fading to dusty cocoa like the memory of a warm embrace.

Not to be confused with Cutty Sark, this Storm is bottled by the Whisky Shack Company.

This expression was distilled during Arran’s second year of operation in September 1996 and bottled at 19 years of age.

Sweet and malty on the slick nose, with honey, lively spices, and hints of pine.

Full on the palate, with juicy fruit, more malt and honey, and developing milk chocolate.

Long and soft in the finish; lightly spiced, finally slightly citric, with a hint of brine and dry oak.

The North of Scotland distillery (formerly Strathmore distillery) was a neighbor of Cambus and operated from 1957-1980 in Clackmannanshire.

Apple peelings, baked apricot, cinnamon, nutmeg, sherry notes with oak wood, beef stock, and adhesives.

It tastes sweet, vibrant, and juicy with red berry fruits, rosewater, strawberry cream soda, cherryade, and cough linctus.

Rosewater, polished antique oak furniture, nail polish remover, and clove on the nose.

It’s fruit forward compared to other aged examples from this closed distillery; the spiced apple and baked plum are partnered by peppery heat and chili, ginger, and fleeting hints of coffee and cocoa.

The flavors throb out of this one, producing a long-lasting experience ending with a dry finish of soft fruits and ginger.

A splash of water coaxes out nougat and makes the spices behave.

Rather elegant blend, with aromas of woodworker’s bench, salted cashew, and dried banana chips, all backed by gentle bonfire smoke.

Creamy caramel toffee, Victoria sponge, red currant, raspberry, and more oak build into a thick, luscious mouthful.

Gentle peat smoke mixed with smoldering wood shavings, fresh maritime characteristics, and milk chocolate, but leave the glass a while, and when you return, the smoky intensity gets really pumped.

Light melon flavors become engulfed by smoke, then the pepper, ginger, and chili kick in, leaving the soft fruit and vanilla cowering lamb-like in a corner.

If you have peat smoke running in your veins, you will love this.

When in doubt, the answer to any question is usually ‘more whisky.’

Here, peat smoke takes an upper hand over the sweet aromas of juicy orange and pear.

The whisky begins icing-sugar sweet, settles to bubble gum, pear, apple, and malt, showing its impeccably balanced, finely textured character replete with strands of oak spices, gentle smoke, baked pastry, and vanilla custard.

This is the first release in the distillery’s new core range for the U.S. After primary maturation in bourbon barrels, the 10 year old whisky undergoes a sherry cask finish.

Orange marmalade, pine nuts, white pepper, and very subtle smokiness on the nose.

The palate majors in overripe Jaffa oranges, ginger, and milk chocolate.

The milk chocolate darkens in the medium-length finish, with coffee grounds and warming spice.

Was the short finish in Château La Louvière casks from Bordeaux’s Pessac-Léognan appellation sufficient to impact this peaty whisky?

A gorgeous color with a nose of sooty, charcoal intensity, hints of chocolate, vanilla pod, clove, and peppercorn.

Flavors of cherry, rhubarb, orange peel, and plums, speckled with aniseed, pepper, clove, and licorice indicate cask influence.

Suggestions of menthol and peppermint, before a smoky finish with licorice and bitter chocolate.

Much is made of the peatiness of the malt used, but just as important is the way in which it is distilled and matured.

This is minty, honey-sweet, with meadowsweet, some dried lavender, tinned peaches, and that hot sand note typical of Bruichladdich.

Heavily peated Bunnahabhain spirit, referred to as Margadale, was used for this bottling and matured in refill sherry butts.

Savory on the nose, with smoky brine, plain chocolate, and Granny Smith apples.

The palate offers similar green apple notes, along with sweet peat, cocoa, and licorice.

Peated to 14.8 ppm, this expression from anCnoc’s Peaty Collection falls between Rutter and Cutter in terms of its phenolic level.

Immediately smoky on the nose, with oily fudge and milky coffee.

Well-balanced in the mouth, with rich flavors of peat, soft fruit, and vanilla, plus a hint of brine and iodine.

The finish is lengthy, with peat embers, walnuts, and more iodine.

A single cask, cask strength whisky finished in a first-fill bourbon barrel.

The initial nose is slightly earthy, with walnuts, Juicy Fruit gum, vanilla, and ripe peach notes in time.

Full, sweet fruit notes on the palate, peaches in syrup, overripe pineapple, with milk chocolate, fudge, and nutmeg.

The finish is medium in length and perennially spicy, with aniseed notes.

The result is a whisky with a nutty nose, plus sultanas, figs, vanilla, and background sherry, becoming more floral in time.

Full-bodied on the palate, with sweet sherry notes, ginger, and cinnamon, and developing raisin and prune notes.

This noble Scot consists of a blend of 20 different whiskies and impresses with its nose of hazelnut, dark chocolate, vanilla pod, menthol, peppercorn, and wisps of damp wood smoke.

Warm chocolate fudge, mellow spices, dark burnished orange, smooth oak, old leather, and malted milk.

The mouthfeel is weighty enough to sustain the heavyweight flavors.

Aromas of oloroso sherry, strawberry, almond paste, clove, licorice Allsorts, black treacle, and smoke from burning haystacks.

Honeyed palate with citrus elements, light lemon, green melon, pear, redcurrant, and pineapple, brightened by some well-rounded spices and root ginger.

It glides into a mouthful of chocolate-coated digestive biscuits with a little smoke, then a finish of citrus oils, fruit skins, and active spices.

There appears to be a concerted effort to bring this distillery out of the shadows: A Good Thing in my opinion.

This limited
release is very Cardhu, with masses of mandarin, dried peach, and honey, reminiscent of a fine oxidized Chinese Phoenix Oolong tea, while still retaining the effervescent buzz of youth.

Akin to a fine Cuban rum on the tongue, with bittersweet chocolate, dark cherry, and tangy, spicy life, it dies a little quickly, but is a lovely dram.

This torchbearer for the Compass Box Scotch Whisky Transparency campaign is looking for your support.

A fruit medley of lemon, lime, gooseberry cream, and soft pineapple chunks.

Ripe apple and pear from the orchard are given a fresh, spicy lift and integrate with the vanilla and sweet toffee notes.

It makes a clean exit with lengthy spices and juiciness, never becoming bitter.

One thing is clear, it’s a finely structured dram worthy of your vote.

This is a special bottling for London department store Selfridge's, but it represents a clever strategy by artisan Compass Box to set its own agenda by regionalizing its whiskies.

This is a long way from the New York blend—indeed, creamier and sweeter than other recent releases.

It has a honey heart, traces of cinnamon, and menthol in the mix, plus wispy smoke.

There's some spice and peat late on, but in relatively subdued form.

Great King Street was our Blend of the Year two years ago and Compass Box wondered where to take it next.

So they have released two versions, asking customers to decide between them by voting online.

The other one is peated and will probably win easily, which is a shame, because this is a more subtle and better whisky.

Sherry, syrup, honey, apple, and sultanas are all here, but nuanced.

Delicate aromas of tropical fruits (coconut, pineapple, mango), marshmallow and vanilla.

Light in body, with delicate exotic flavors that deliver what the aroma promises.

Bottled as London's Big Ben began to strike midnight on the day that the word 'vatted' was outlawed in Scotch whisky terminology, this is a mix of grains from different distilleries and does the campaign for more Scotch grain whisky no harm at all.

 Gossamer soft and smooth with a honeycomb heart and milk chocolate, vanilla, and the odd prod of spice, it's a cushion of a whisky.

Just eight whiskies in the blend, married and finished in first fill Spanish sherry and bourbon casks.

An insistent nose, crackling with spices, with toasted Eccles cake anointed with grated nutmeg, vanilla extract, cassia, and dark soy sauce.

Light honey and vanilla, tangerine oils, and lime peel exhibit perfectly-paced development, with flavor building over a minute or more.

Warming ginger, spices, and tropical fruits of guava and papaya close out this first annual special edition.

An example that older, more expensive isn’t always better, this 18 year old gem is as good as many blends twice its price.

The foundation of Johnnie Walker Gold is delicate, clean, and honeyed, along with a fresh sea character (from Clynelish?) that provides a youthful zing.

Notes of vanilla, shortbread, tropical fruit, freshly cut hay, marshmallow, and even a hit of peat, round out the palate.

Blender Aimée Gibson set out to make a sundowner scotch by incorporating whiskies matured in wine casks.

The blueberry, blackcurrant, and fresh oak aromas continue on to the palate: fruit compote, raspberry, strawberry, and lingonberry with light spices.

A late resurgence of dark toffee, chocolate, and cigar smoke blow into the finish.

Sip away by all means, but this fruity sensation calls to be served up in long, cool drinks.

A complex whisky (on the nose and palate) in the same vein as Chivas 18, only deeper, with more caramelized sweetness, darker fruit, and greater emphasis on dried spices and roasted nuts (and perhaps even tobacco).

Everything moves along nicely -- and entertainingly -- until the whisky approaches the finish on the palate.

Its age begins to show, as spicy oak dryness and suggestions of polished leather begin to dominate through to the finish.

An enjoyable whisky, but I prefer the 18 year old to the 25 year old for its impeccable balance.

A charmingly sweet nose with Christmas cake, swollen raisin, dates, sticky toffee pudding, walnut, nutmeg, and gentle spices confirm the presence of the oloroso cask at work.

An oily texture, with butterscotch, tangy peel, and mandarin, becoming darker and nutty, with sultana and plum skin shading into menthol and streaks of bitterness.

Finally, Brazil nut, macadamia, and clove, with a hot, dry, nutty finish.

It offers a nose redolent of Christmas pudding: figs, sultanas, orange, honey, and cream.

Smooth on the palate with sweet spicy sherry, orchard fruits, and caramel.

Raisins and plain chocolate in the lingering finish, with Jaffa orange notes to the end.

The finer bottles of Aberfeldy are quite flavorful, yet still maintain a degree of elegance and finesse.

Its dominant flavor note is fruit (orange, honeydew melon), with some creamy vanilla notes, caramel, and light toffee.

The extra aging adds depth to the whisky, yet this whisky remains quite clean and fresh on the palate.

Independent releases of the Perthshire single malt Aberfeldy are relatively rare, and the first batch of That Boutique-y Whisky Company’s no age statement Aberfeldy runs to 155 numbered bottles.

The nose features coconut ice, vanilla, malt, candied peel, and ginger.

Good mouthfeel, with more malt, ginger-nut biscuits, icing sugar, and milk chocolate.

Maybe not as massive as its higher-strength brother (see above), but don’t think that this is light.

There’s immediate grumbling peatiness, mixed with dark chocolate, lanolin, and tamarind, while the spiciness brings to mind tandoori food.

There’s still the seaweed element, while the lower strength pulls things into a darker core—coal tar soap, damp moss.

A very oily palate, that with water takes you onto the peat bog.

A single cask of Ardmore aged in a first-fill bourbon cask and then finished in quarter casks.

This one is more mature, with more depth than the standard Ardmore Traditional Cask (which I rated 80 a few years back).

Notes of toffee, vanilla bean, chocolate fudge, licorice stick, bourbon, tar, charcoal, and a hint of burnt raisin.

Honeyed vanilla, bright fruit (lemon, tangerine, nectarine), sultana, green grapes, and banana bread, peppered with ginger and subtle, gripping grape skin.

The latest limited release in the Icons of Arran series was distilled in 1999 and matured in fourteen ex-bourbon barrels and seven sherry hogsheads.

Initially launched in the UK, but global availability is anticipated.

A sprinkling of coconut, vanilla, and spices, with pears, melons, and pineapple on the nose.

This U.S.-exclusive Premium Bourbon Single cask #2096 contrasts nicely with its sherry cask-matured sibling, and offers vanilla, cocoa powder, malt extract, ripe bananas, and spicy sultanas on the nose.

The palate is smooth and spicy, with ginger snaps and developing butteriness.

The finish is medium to long, with chili notes and citrus fruits at the last.

The ancient variety of barley known as bere that was used to make this Arran single malt was grown on Orkney and distilled in 2004.

It was matured for eight years in bourbon barrels, and 5,800 bottles have been released.

Very fruity on the nose, principally peaches, with vanilla and fudge, something slightly herbal, wet grass, and finally homemade lemonade.

A limited edition of 12,000 bottles, this expression from Arran was initially matured in first-fill bourbon barrels before a secondary period of aging in American oak quarter casks, which accelerated maturation.

A big hit of tinned peaches, then malt, cinnamon, vanilla, and caramel.

Sweet and rounded on the palate, with lots of fresh fruit, notably pineapple, plus caramel, chili, and ginger.

Relatively long in the fruity finish, with brittle toffee, new oak, and persistent spice.

This 1977 ‘house’ vintage expression has been matured for 32 years in oloroso sherry casks.

Delicate, sweet, and floral on the nose, with old leather, caramel, vanilla, and malt.

The palate is initially sweet, smooth, and malty, with pear drops; becoming nuttier, with soft oak in the medium-length finish.

The latest triple distilled bottling from the Lowland distillery of Auchentoshan has been matured for 35 years in bourbon casks and is presented non-chill filtered and at cask strength.

Apple crumble and custard on the nose, with developing cereal notes.

Spice, fresh fruits, honey, and marzipan on the buttery palate, which ultimately becomes drier.

The finish is long and discreetly drying, with spices, malted barley, and a citrus tang in the tail.

This is the second batch of Silveroak 1990 from Auchentoshan, and it has benefited from an extra year of maturation in bourbon and oloroso sherry casks.

Notably floral on the nose, with fudge, banana, ginger, and attractive oak.

On the palate it delivers vanilla, apricots, apples, more ginger, and oak.

The finish is long and spicy, with dark coffee notes and a hint of menthol.

Balblair has followed up the first release of its 1975 vintage bottling with a second, which differs significantly in character, having been matured in American oak sherry casks, whereas the initial release had been aged in Spanish oak sherry casks.

Floral, mellow, and slightly oily on the nose, with a savory background and ready-salted crisps.

Silky smooth on the palate, with citrus fruit, a hint of wood smoke, coconut, and honey.

Balblair Vintage 2003 replaces the previous 2002 expression, matured in second-fill bourbon barrels, with the contents of eighteen making up this first release.

Tinned peaches and apricot jam on the nose, with underlying honey and caramel.

Early malt, then zesty lemon notes on the palate, which also features freshly-cut grass and hazelnuts.

Launched in December 2015, the first release of Balblair’s Vintage 2005 replaces the previous 2003 expression.

The nose is relatively light and fruity: vanilla, ripe bananas, honey, a wisp of smoke, and soft spices.

  Toffee, malt, vanilla, a biscuit-like note, more bananas, and new leather on the palate, closing with a lengthy, spicy finish.

After the 68’s quiet nature, we reach Balvenie in fully mature, robust character—well, as robust as Balvenie ever gets.

That means more cask-derived notes of vanilla ice, butterscotch, crème brûlée, and a jag of citrus bringing you to your senses.

There’s squidgy caramel toffee and the honey is now fixed in the comb adding that distinct waxiness of old, gently matured whisky.

This was aged in a refill American oak hogshead, as was the 1981 expression.

Like that variant, it has pineapple and lemon on the nose and also yields milk chocolate, green apples, and fresh-sawn wood.

Smooth, full, and sweet on the palate, again with very ripe tropical fruits, plus apple pie.

Very traditional West Highland style: somewhat rustic, muscular, and oily in texture, with notes of leather, bourbon, espresso, orange peel, kiwi, and a suggestion of ultra-aged Caribbean rum.

Occasionally, a softer side of vanilla and coconut shows itself, but, if this whiskey were a man, he would be a lumberjack.

Very robust and chewy-this whisky has plenty of gusto-with notes of toffee, vanilla cream, bitter chocolate, powdered cocoa, and almond fig cake.

Background citrus (especially on the nose), tobacco, and polished leather.

This single cask 17 year old expression of Ben Nevis was matured in a sherry butt which yielded 747 bottles.

It appears in Carn Mor’s “Strictly Limited” series of releases and has not been chill filtered.

The bold nose opens with slightly savory notes and hard-boiled eggs.

Quite full-bodied, with rich Jaffa orange and developing plain chocolate on the palate.

More dark chocolate and a suggestion of fennel in the medium-length finish.

Leafy bonfire smoke, damp kiln, tar, anise, dark chocolate, and a hint of clove.

All this is balanced by an underlying malty foundation and a kiss of honey, vanilla, and tropical fruit.

Nice to see single cask, cask strength bottlings of peated BenRiach.

It’s very exciting to see a peated Speyside whisky; they are so rare these days.

Ideally, the peat smoke will add an additional dimension to the whisky without dominating the whisky’s other flavors.

Most Speysiders are big enough to embrace the smoke, as is the case with this expression of BenRiach.

The turfy peat smoke is offset nicely by layers of sweetness (oatcakes, butterscotch, vanilla, and honeyed malt) and soft fruit.

A steep price for a 10 year old whisky-whisky prices have been climbing faster than real estate lately-but this whisky is worth its price.

The most richly textured and complex of the unpeated expressions.

Base notes of honeyed malt and creamy vanilla are complemented by citrus fruit (lemon, tangerine), coconut, bitter chocolate, exotic wood shavings, and a hint of assorted nuts.

After first maturating in bourbon barrels, finishing took place in tawny port casks.

The nose offers vanilla and milky coffee, with peppery red berries and a hint of plain chocolate.

Vanilla, toffee, orange, and spicy oak on the palate, while the finish is long and warming, with more spicy oak.

Introduced in 2004, Curiositas was the first peated expression to be marketed by BenRiach.

Mildly medicinal earthy peat on the nose, hot road tar, honey, and light tropical fruit aromas.

Iodine and smoky peat on the palate, with mineral notes, dried fruits, allspice, and oak.

More oak in the medium-length finish, with peanut and peppery peat.

The aim with Benromach was always to rediscover an older Speyside style, and this shows how well owner Gordon & MacPhail has succeeded.

There’s a profound sherried introduction, just a little malt, then it is all fruitcakes and light smoke.

The palate is properly old-style and oily, with some pleasing zingy orange peel toward the back of the palate.

This vintage Benromach has been finished in Sassicaia wine casks from the Bolgheri wine region of Italy after maturation in first-fill bourbon barrels.

Initially, juicy fruit on the palate, but soon drier than expected from the nose.

The latest version of the first certified organic Scotch whisky is a creamy malt that has lashings of vanilla, banana peel, and pecan pie aromas.

Banoffee pie topped with sliced banana, apple, nectarine, and ripe peach, with a good flare of peppery spices.

With water, more green fruit, melon, tropical fruits, and a little chili kick emerge.

Very much in the Bladnoch style, with honey-kissed lemon, tangerine, kiwi, creamy vanilla, lightly toasted marshmallow, marzipan, cut grass, and hay.

Richly textured for a Lowland, and palate-coating (a tad oily, too!).

The extra years have added some depth, while still retaining a youthful zest.

Samsara’s (reviewed winter 2016) younger sibling Adela presents an altogether different profile, having been matured in oloroso casks.

The nose is nutty, with quite dry sherry notes and prickly spice.

Very supple in the mouth, where the sherry becomes sweeter, along with black currants, licorice, and then black pepper.

The third in a trilogy (the other two being bourbon and sherry cask-aged).

I like this one better than the sherry cask 1990 vintage, but not quite as much as the bourbon cask bottling which was in our Top Ten whiskies two years ago.

They’re clean, and contribute a layered sweetness and ripe red berry fruit notes to the traditional, moderately peated Bowmore smoke and peat.

Good balance of flavors -- and well-integrated, too -- with lovely sweet notes (cereal grain, cookie dough, caramel, and vanilla cream), young heathery peat, tar, fishnets, and brine that is complementary, but not aggressive, with a suggestion of lavender and tangerine.

Last year’s was a top-notch, defiantly sherried example of Bowmore.

This year’s batch thrusts equally boldly, but starts in a more Japanese-accented fashion: think soy, miso paste, and salmon teriyaki.

Light leather, with hickory campfire smoke coming through strongly.

The big, oily, tarry palate is like a spent barbecue with a hint of skidding car tires on Bowmore High Street.

It’s only right that the first single malt scotch given a period of time (3 years in this case) in Japanese oak (mizunara) casks is from Beam Suntory-owned Bowmore.

It’s a fascinating mix of the vanilla, spice, and incense notes of mizunara and Bowmore’s distillery characteristics.

You get rich peat, black pepper, apricot, and peach all playing alongside each other.

The palate is clean and lighter than the nose suggests, with a fresh zestiness before the smoke leans back in.

I’m also picking up a good dose of warming peat smoke, along with molasses, and a gentle maltiness throughout.

A peppering of subtle brine and a hint of seaweed peak through occasionally, reminding one of its Islay roots.

Fresh, appetizing aroma of vanilla malt, honey, brine, and subtle tropical fruit.

Delicious, fresh, subtly complex flavors of vanilla malt, sea salt, subtle tropical fruit, and fresh herbs, finishing dry and lightly spicy.

Since the owners of Murray McDavid also control the Bruichladdich distillery, one would expect a good bottling.

It is nicely matured, fresh, and deliciously appetizing-almost mouth-watering.

This is six year old, 40 ppm phenol (very smoky) whisky distilled at Bruichladdich, bottled at cask strength and enhanced in Madeira casks.

A young whisky, but mature enough to say that it’s not too young.

The immediate impact is damp peat smoke and smoldering charcoal.

If you are patient and observant enough (and with an addition of water), you’ll coax notes of vanilla, berried fruit, pear, green apple, and underlying spice (fresh mint, anise), all leading to a briny, smoldering smoke finish.

When compared to its predecessor, PC5, PC6 is slightly darker in color, creamier, fruitier, and a shade softer.

Given this, I still prefer the PC5 over the PC6 for its clarity and innocence.

The fresher of the two, with appetizing brine, honey, lemon rock candy, golden raisin, and peach.

Subtle ginger, toasted marshmallow, and coconut round out the palate.

Vanilla fudge, barley grist, fresh sea spray, berries, and nuts all integrated nicely.

A gentle, comforting dram that accommodates many moods and situations.

Full gold in color, this Bunna initially has the lifted Moscatel aroma that’s reminiscent of a fine Darjeeling leaf tea, then comes melting milk chocolate and touches of sweet cinnamon toast.

The palate continues in this sweet vein, but has the distillery’s characteristic thickness in the mid-palate, as well as plenty of its signature fresh ginger note.

Here’s an Islay distillery which has never quite had the investment it deserves.

Hopefully this limited release is the start of an addressing of that situation.

It has a classic nose with ginger (crystallized) to the fore alongside toasted almond and the balsamic note that you sometimes get with extra-mature whiskies, manifested here as mulberry vinegar.

The mouth has coconut, some grip, and — though it fades a little speedily — retained fire.

The Islay character is most evident in the younger whisky expressions, before the oak has tamed them.

This whisky is a perfect example: an uninhibited, incredibly powerful Caol Ila, thumping out notes of tarry rope, damp peat, kippers, and seaweed.

Background spices (salt, pepper, ginger) add intrigue, while a firm foundation of vanilla malt struggles to provide soothing comfort.

Bright fruit throughout (red raspberry, strawberry-rhubarb pie, gooseberry, red currant, nectarine), honeyed malt, dark chocolate, tarry rope, seaweed soaked in olive brine, and ground pepper.

Nicely balanced, well-defined flavors, and fully mature at 10 years of age.

With no great wood on show, this is a Caol Ila which is time—not oak—driven.

A very scented, nay herbal start, like bouquet garni with light smoke, grapefruit, sea-washed stones, ozone, and heather blossom.

Water increases the peat effect but diminishes the aromatics, so take your choice.

Restrained, ozonic, with no great smokiness to open, but there is a touch of green grass behind meadow flowers and salt-washed stones so typical of the distillery.

With water another marker—drying fishing nets—comes through, with breaths of the sea.

More smoke on the palate, where it’s like a flowering currant bush on fire.

Great balance of different elements: smoke, fragrance, oil, acidity.

The now-annual unpeated release shows its high strength on the nose, but under the burn is a clean, mineral, and slightly lean Caol Ila with just a tiny whiff of smoke.

A mix of grassiness/herbal notes, with delicate white fruits that plump out into tinned fruit salad, gooseberry, and fresh pineapple.

The palate is sweet and cake-like, while the heat enhances its salty tang.

It’s good to see an official distillery bottling of Clynelish in the U.S.

This one is very true to the Clynelish style: fresh, appetizing, and very drinkable.

Notes of brine, fruit (lemon-lime), and vanilla-accented malt, are the foundation of this whisky.

Delicate seaweed, peat, exotic pepper and a hint of citrus rind bitterness entertain the palate throughout, all the way to its appetizingly briny, seaweed-tinged finish.

Refill sherry hogsheads have been used to mature the latest Gordon & MacPhail bottling of Clynelish, the most northerly distillery in Diageo’s portfolio.

Initially quite earthy on the nose, with mustard seeds, pepper, and contrasting malt.

Quite oily in texture, the earthiness carries over from the nose onto the palate, then sweet fruit notes, malt, and spice emerge, plus a delicate thread of smoke.

This 15 year old bottling of Diageo’s Sutherland single malt comes courtesy of The Creative Whisky Co., whose Exclusive Malts range of single cask, cask strength Scotch malt whiskies has recently been imported into the U.S.

Fleeting burnt sugar on the nose, then mango and brittle toffee.

Mouth-coating, with lively spices, fruit and nut milk chocolate on the palate.

Relatively long in the finish, with ginger snaps and a wax-like texture.

The latest Wemyss single cask release of Clynelish from the distillery at Brora in Sutherland runs to 258 bottles and has been matured in a hogshead.

Freshly-sliced green apples on the nose, slightly peppery, with grated nutmeg and salted caramels.

Relatively full-bodied, with lots of soft fruit, principally Jaffa oranges, and sweet spice.

Spicy caramel and cocoa powder in the slowly drying, medium-length finish.

The standard Cragganmore 12 year old is one of Scotland’s best kept secrets-I enjoy its incredibly complex, dry, spicy character.

The port contributes ripe fruit flavors (cherries in syrup, golden raisins, mandarin, glazed berries) which complements the dry spicy notes nicely and makes for a more balanced product.

Still, for this, the whisky sacrifices some of its individuality and brilliancy with all that port.

This oft-overlooked Speysider has been frustratingly variable in the past, but now seems to have hit greater consistency.

Worm tubs and weird stills combine to give a complex malt, but one that needs help from oak to blossom fully.

There are hedgerow aromas: black currant leaf, hawthorn berries, and lots of honey.

A chestnut note continues on the tongue where, on the finish, a hint of smoke lurks.

Aged in American oak for 14 years and then finished off in Spanish sherry butts for several more.

Fruity notes of succulent orange, strawberry rhubarb tart, and sultana, on a bed of toffee and vanilla.

A peppering of cinnamon, lemon rock candy, chocolate-covered coffee bean, and lavender adds complexity.

Perhaps a little heavy-handed with the sherry, but still, it’s a solid effort and a Dalmore to enjoy after dinner or as a nightcap.

Comprising 100 percent whisky matured in oloroso sherry casks, the Tay Dram is fresh and vibrant on the nose, with fruit and toffee.

Fuller bodied than the Tweed or Dee Drams, with more overt evidence of sherry, followed through by honey, almonds, coffee, and toffee.

Dark chocolate is to the fore in the lengthy finish — this time closer to chocolate orange confectionery.

The Dalmore has added a new expression to its Travel Retail portfolio, namely Valour.

This variant carries no age statement and maturation began in first-fill bourbon casks and 30 year old Matusalem oloroso sherry butts before undergoing a finishing period in port pipes.

The result is a nose of black currants, caramel, and musty sherry.

The palate is medium-sweet, with damsons, Jaffa oranges, and printer’s ink.

The finish embraces drying spices, figs, and mildly astringent oak.

Style: Highland single malt scotch Color: Gold Aroma: Quite fruity (especially apples).

Delicately honeyed fruit notes up from, followed by oak and toffee, becoming dry and spicy with pleasant lingering oak.

Equally honeyed; in fact here the finish (oloroso this time) seems to enhance the sweetness.

Out comes Manuka honey, Greek yogurt, and heavy blossom notes while the sherry itself brings in a nutty, polished note.

There’s just a hint of sulfur when you add water (Dalwhinnie is a sulfury new make).

Distilled in 1997 and bottled in 2014, this expression of Dalwhinnie spent a period finishing in oloroso sherry casks.

The nose offers honey, ripe oranges, peach blossom, and creamy milk chocolate, with just a wisp of smoke.

Full-bodied and sweet on the palate, with orange zest, walnuts, more honey, and fruit spices.

The finish is long and warming, with a hint of peat and spicy oak.

The flavors evolve on the palate, with toffee up front, malty sweetness in the middle and nutty, finishing pleasantly dry with a hint of mint and vanilla.

A release chosen by Douglas Maclean (and named after his song “Caledonia”).

Rich, with nutty toffee, pot still rum, a variety of raisins (regular and golden), date, honeyed fruit, polished leather, and a hint of tobacco.

Edradour, in Perthshire, is owned by independent bottler Signatory, who has released a wide variety of expressions during the past few years.

However, the standard 12 year old remains a classic of its kind.

 Cider apples, malt, almonds, vanilla, and honey on the nose, along with a hint of smoke and sherry.

The palate is creamy and malty, with a persistent nuttiness and quite pronounced sherry, plus a touch of leather.

It’s not as individualistic or distinctive as the others, but that’s how I always think of Glen Elgin, so no surprise here.

This is a solid effort: fruity and flowery, with notes of tangerine, marmalade, caramel apple, ginger, cut grass, cinnamon, almond paste, and underlying vanilla, lingering in a satisfying finish.

The least well-known of the Fogwatt trio which includes Longmorn and BenRiach, it’s unlikely that Glen Elgin will become a major brand anytime soon, given how important it is to blenders.

A combination of long, slow ferments, and distillation coupled with worm tubs gives a ludicrously fruity spirit, which here is bulging with ripe peach, apricot, and Galia melon coated in cinnamon and nutmeg, given thick weight by the worm tubs.

Aromas are rich and express great depth, with highlights of ripe fruit and wood spices.

Well-rounded flavors are balanced very nicely, with a gentle sweetness up front that marries well with ripe fruit, becoming dry with background wood spice notes.

Obviously an old whisky, but a delicate one that has subtle complexities; the balance between the dried grass/hayloft, the dried orange peel, and stewed apple, for example.

Sweet and fragrant, it shows chypre notes with water alongside a more gentle floral aspect.

The palate is drier than the nose suggests, quite mineral, with a lacy character.

A highly concentrated nose: Marmite and soy sauce, and all the fresh fruits of youth reduced to essence.

Drinkwise, it’s closest to Chinato: curative barks, dried herbs (mint, hyssop, oregano).

The palate is unsurprisingly thick and lightly smoky, but the tannins aren't overly astringent, and there remains a sweet core still, even if the overall effect is dark.

Quite fruity too (tangerine, pear, sultana, pineapple), on a dry malty foundation.

Lighter notes of grass, hay, linseed oil, and dried vanilla add complexity.

This is justifiable, considering that both production and availability of quality bottlings have been sporadic over the past decade or so.

It really shows the simple, coastal pleasantness of this Campbeltown distillery.

Ripe malty notes are accompanied by brine, cut hay, banana cream pie, and honeyed vanilla.

With all the sherried and wine-finished Springbanks recently on the market (not that there’s anything wrong with that), here’s a nice, no-frills, Campbeltown whisky.

The nose gives a whiff of vanilla fudge, then black pepper, sea salt, and a savory note develops.

The palate yields maritime-tinged candied fruits and effervescent smoke.

Whiskies in Douglas Laing’s new Old Particular range are non-chill filtered and bottled at three strengths, with those aged 19 years and over being offered at 51.5%.

This Glen Scotia was distilled in May 1992 and boasts a nose of violets, musky malt, soft smoke, and a fresh sea breeze.

Big, spicy, and quite oily on the palate, with dark berries, black tea, and a note of tar.

Long and dark in the finish, with oak tannins and persistent licorice.

The most expensive of Glen Scotia’s new trio has been finished in deeply-charred barrels and bottled non-chill filtered at cask strength.

Soft and sweet on the nose, with peaches, fudge, and a hint of oak.

Full-bodied and slightly oily on the palate, with wood spices, vanilla, and blackberries.

Although this distillery is operating, it remains one of the hardest Speyside whiskies to find.

A fairly straight-forward whisky-pleasingly malty and somewhat viscous on the palate, with some grassy notes.

The extra years, with this particular bottling anyway, have allowed the whisky to blossom, become a little more intriguing and heavier.

Along with malt and grassy notes, I’m picking up citrus fruit (especially on the nose), toffee, nuts, freshly ground roasted cocoa beans, nougat, and vanilla fudge.

This is a single cask (#729) bottling, distilled in 1982, and the outturn was just 260 bottles.

Soft and supple on the waxy nose, with worn leather, Jaffa oranges, and malt.

Lots of leather, with brittle toffee, orange creams, and a slightly musty note on the full palate.

Mouth-drying in the lengthy finish, but the tannins never come close to overwhelming.

Over the past decade there has been no shortage of Glendronach expressions.

I know of at least one 15 year old, an 18 year old, a 19 year old, a 1968 vintage, and four different 12 year old versions.

My favorite of the range was the limited edition 19 year old released here in the U.S. about a decade ago.

The 1968 Vintage, which you can still find on retailers’ shelves, is also a worthy dram.

But this new 12 year old “Original” expression is certainly my favorite of the 12s (and the 15).

I feel that Glendronach expresses itself best when it is not dominated by the sherry, allowing a greater balance of flavors.

This whisky was originally matured in sherry casks, but was then (fortunately) aged in bourbon casks for the remainder of its maturation.

A richly flavored, nicely balanced whisky expressing notes of sherried fruit, burnt caramel, light toffee, and nuts, all underpinned by a soothing malty foundation.

Quite lush, with golden raisin, crème brûlée, rhubarb pie, honey-kissed citrus, and creamy vanilla.

A lovely example of a dessert whisky — comforting, warming, and embracing.

(I would also enjoy this after a brunch of crepes, fresh fruit, and maple syrup.)

This batch of GlenDronach’s popular cask strength has been aged in a combination of oloroso and Pedro Ximenez sherry casks.

Malt, honey, rose blossom, and chocolate-coated Turkish Delight, plus emerging vanilla on the nose.

The palate is full and rounded, very sweet, with more milk chocolate and very gentle spice.

The finish is lengthy, with milky coffee, sweet spices, and subtle oak.

The nose is like a gentleman’s club at lunchtime: roasting meat, some pipe tobacco, polished wood, and the scent of a freshly-dug garden wafting through the windows.

The palate shows slightly more fresh fruitiness (in line with the 1971 cask).

A refill hogshead this time, which when combined with its (relative) youth throws the distillery character into even greater focus.

Positively light to start with, a green edge to the dry grass seen in the 1970s and more of the fruity notes hinted at in the 1982.

All the time, though, it is anchored by meaty earthiness and that distinctive burnt note.

The finish is a little short, but all in all a very appetizing example.

The lack of huge oak interaction has given an amazing freshness; think of freshly-applied plaster, syrup, hot green bracken, a touch of nuttiness.

It takes water well, allowing pure, soft fruits to come through, and it is these which become almost syrup-like in the mouth, while never losing Glenfarclas’ central depth and roasty richness in the center.

Surprisingly pale (you see the issue, Macallan?), but long aging in refill casks helps eliminate the bluntness of oak and can produce aromas that have been reduced and then taken into an exotic realm; here manifested as quince paste and kumquat followed by crystallized and candied fruits.

The palate is subtle and soft with light heat, toasted chocolate, white currant, and then overwhelming cherry blossom.

One of a trio of new whiskies that have spent time in Glenfiddich’s new solera vats, this will surprise many because of its overt smokiness that’s like a bonfire in a pear orchard.

The reverse happens on the palate, with the smoke being held in check by the soft mouthfeel (which could be solera-enhanced), ripe fruits, and gentle creaminess.

One of two initial releases in Glenfiddich’s Experimental Series, this is a non-chill filtered expression.

A vatting of twenty casks, including first-fill bourbon, sherry butts, and port pipes.

The nose is fragrant and faintly oriental, with vanilla, Jaffa oranges, and apricots.

The palate is full and sweet, with oranges and lemons, fudge, plump sultanas, milk chocolate, and tangy spices.

Drying steadily to fruity oakiness in the relatively lengthy finish.

One of two new Glen Garioch vintages to be produced under the auspices of Morrison Bowmore Distillers’ master blender Rachel Barrie, this 1995 offering is due to appear in the U.S. next year.

1,000 cases are available and maturation has taken place in first-fill bourbon casks.

Spice, vanilla, pears, honey, and very discreet smoke on the nose.

Hazelnuts, baked bananas, apple strudel, and lots of spice on the sweet creamy palate, backed up by a gentle note of lingering char.

Wemyss Malts has bottled this 23 year old hogshead-matured example of Glen Garioch from the Aberdeenshire village of Oldmeldrum.

Cigarette tobacco, brittle toffee, and a hint of aniseed on the nose.

The first of four ‘chapters’ under the Renaissance banner, all of which will consist of spirit made since Glen Garioch reopened in 1997.

This 15 year old release has been matured in sherry and bourbon casks, and 12,000 bottles are available.

Ginger features on the early, perfumed nose, with soft toffee, oranges, and dates.

Milk chocolate on the creamy palate, where the ginger theme continues, along with cinnamon and caramel.

The finish offers rich chocolate and orange, which finally fades.

This malt is actually 36 years old, having spent its first 34 years in a refill hogshead before two years of maturation in a first fill ex-Sauternes cask.

Mellow on the nose, with fresh oranges and apples, developing toffee, and violets.

Smooth and fruity on the palate, with dark chocolate, pepper, and discreet tannins.

While younger Glengoyne whiskies are enjoyable but often fairly straight-forward in flavor, the older expressions develop nicely in depth.

Regardless of age, there’s always a creamy maltiness as the foundation of the whisky.

For this expression, notes of honey, cookie dough, dry spice notes (vanilla, cinnamon) and soft fruit (citrus, apple) round out the palate.

A very delightful aroma that defies its age, with notes of rich creamy vanilla, exotic tropical fruit, honey, and toasted oak.

Its flavor starts out like its aroma-creamy vanilla, tropical fruit, honey-then turns dry and becomes very dry, leathery, and oaky on the finish.

I enjoy Glenlivet whisky for its subtle elegance, floral notes, along with a delicious "peaches & cream" flavor.

For this particular whisky, finishing some of the whisky in new French oak barrels adds depth, dried spice (vanilla, clove) and pleasing dryness to the Glenlivet profile.

This whisky is more polished and refined than the 12 year old expression it replaces.

Style: Highland single malt scotch Color: Gold Aroma: Subtly complex and somewhat dry, with notes of vanilla, almonds, hay, freshly cut grass, and a hint of smoke.

Palate: Clean and malty up front, becoming dry as it begins to reveal its age, as the maltiness turns into a potpourri of spice and dried fruit.

Like the Nectar D’or above, this expression adds lushness, body, and a sweet complexity (but with darker fruit and spice than the Nectar D’or) while still allowing Glenmorangie’s complexity to shine through.

This NAS Glenmorangie contains whisky aged in bourbon casks and some that was ‘extra-matured’ in Spanish oloroso sherry casks, as per Glenmoragie Lasanta.

The result is a variant with more of a winter fireside vibe than found in Original.

The nose boasts dates, plain chocolate, caramel, and Jaffa oranges.

Rich and fruity in the mouth, with more oranges, plus sultanas, roasted chestnuts, cinnamon, and ginger.

The finish is medium in length, fruity, gingery, and ultimately slightly bitter.

Very malty flavors, with notes of honeyed fruit up front, turning dry on the finish with notes of oak, vanilla, and dried fruit.

Zesty fruit (lemon, peach, ripe pineapple, golden raisin) on a bed of layered sweetness (creamy vanilla, light honey, lightly toasted marshmallow, and a hint of coconut).

Light enough and with enough zing to enjoy before dinner, but it should stand up well enough after dinner, too.

This is a nice whisky, but it shows a lighter, more elegant side of Glenrothes.

It doesn’t express the rich, opulent notes often shown in bottlings like the 1972 Vintage, for example.

Though this has been on the shelves in the UK for a while, its U.S. release has been delayed.

It shows a classic mature ‘Rothes nose, mixing moist fruitcake, vanilla, and a tickle of maltiness.

What sets this apart is the weight of the stewed fruit and a dry note reminiscent of light rain on tweed.

The palate is typically slow with a sparky spiciness and a lick of hazelnut butter to caress your throat.

A new NAS, this has a thick, silky nose in classic ‘Rothes style which reminds you of coffee cream icing, hazelnut syrup, semi-dried soft fruits, and horchata.

The palate has elegance and poise, with a hint of menthol lifting off into pecan and light grippy oak.

Water slightly reduces its voluptuous charms, so be careful (or simply avoid).

Praise for revealing all the vintages used, and the fantastic price.

A comparatively rare independent bottling of what is, in any case, a hard to find single malt.

Distilled in 1990, matured in an American oak hogshead (#646), and bottled at cask strength.

White pepper, damp earth, violets, cinnamon, and slight saltiness on the nose.

The pepper blackens on the idiosyncratic palate, with cough syrup, big spice notes, and dark berries.

The only sherry cask-aged Rarest of the Rare whisky reviewed here.

Rich thick cut marmalade, combined with chewy toffee, sultana, and nuts.

More subtle notes of mixed nuts, sap, tobacco, and fig, with just a hint of Moroccan spice and leather.

Surprisingly complex for a whisky this young, and the most intriguing of the younger expressions reviewed here.

Nicely balanced aroma of honeyed malt, fruit, floral notes, and a hint of the sea.

The palate begins with soothing honey notes, followed by a rich maltiness.

The whisky eventually becomes dry and floral, with a suggestion of salt.

Following on from Thor, Loki is the second release in Highland Park’s Valhalla Collection.

Loki has been matured in a mix of sherry and heavily-peated casks.

Initial notes of marzipan on the nose, then orange, oriental spices, and chili.

Soft and sweet on the palate, with pink grapefruit, overt smoke, and a touch of salt.

The finish features contrasting barbecue and vanilla notes, citrus, and lots of spice.

ICE Edition is a 17 year old matured predominantly in bourbon casks.

Just 30,000 rather extravagantly presented bottles are available globally.

  Fresh and fruity on the nose with light trademark Highland Park sweet smoke, ginger, and a hint of dry earth.

In time the fruits become more clearly defined as pears and peaches.

Full and viscous on the palate; vanilla, pepper, brief orchard fruits, then dry peat, licorice, aniseed, and a lingering, relatively dry finish.

Valkyrie replaces the current Dark Origins expression and was matured in a combination of first-fill American oak sherry casks, American oak bourbon casks, and European oak sherry casks, along with some refill casks.

Apricots and aromatic wood smoke on the nose; slightly oily, with raisins.

Stewed fruits on the palate, with earthy peat, licorice, and black pepper.

It has been matured in first-fill and refill American oak sherry casks.

The nose offers honeysuckle, vanilla, rising bread dough, and faint, aromatic wood smoke.

Slightly smoky orchard fruits on the early palate, with sultanas, ripe cherries, and cinnamon.

Medium to long in the finish, with drying fruit notes, wood spice, and ultimately, licorice sticks.

Full Volume is a U.S.-exclusive bottling that was distilled in 1999 and matured entirely in first-fill bourbon casks.

The nose is fragrant, with canned pears and vanilla ice cream, coconut, and a very subtle wisp of smoke.

Quite thin on the palate, nutty, mildly herbal, with tropical fruits.

Ashy peat smoke, cocoa powder, and wood spice in the medium-length finish.

Very mature aroma of oak, damp earth, peat smoke, licorice, soft citrus, and seaweed.

A gently sweet vanilla note up front-albeit very briefly-then a quick flash of citrus fruit and seaweed.

After that it's a battle between peat smoke and oak, with the oak ultimately winning.

Chock full of ripe fruit, but still quite feminine in personality.

Firm malt foundation, almost buttery in texture, with juicy oak, maple syrup, raspberry (red and black), strawberry, and dates, peppered with gentle spice (cinnamon, ginger).

While this is a very enjoyable whisky, I have tasted some excellent Linkwood bottlings, including the standard 12 year old from back in the early 1990s, that brandished less sherry, allowing more of Linkwood’s gentle nature to blossom.

Still, the sherry influence here is pristine, and it gives as much as it masks.

The combination of Linkwood and sherry cask can be to the detriment of such a perfumed whisky.

The nose speaks of caramel toffee, demerara sugar, and while an oaky touch is there it’s light, allowing plump sultanas, rose, and a delightful balsamic cider vinegar note to emerge.

The latest incarnation of Springbank’s Longrow Red matured for 11 years in port casks before being bottled at cask strength.

The nose is sweet, with cherries, caramel, new leather, chewing tobacco, and soft peat.

Voluptuous in the mouth, with a palate of rich peat, summer berries, and toffee apples, with growing spice notes, and light oak.

Lengthy in the finish, with cinnamon, peat, sweet oak, and red berries.

Longmorn always has this fruitcake thing going on and this is no exception.

A sherry hoggie  helped provide sultana, cake mix, grilled almond, rhubarb puree, and a little cigar box.

The palate is very fruity, with light Darjeeling-like tannins, then red fruits.

It becomes nuttier as it moves and needs water to add ripeness to the stone fruit base.

Its 50 years of age are evident in the nose-there's plenty of resinous wood spice notes (especially clove).

Also on the nose is citrus (especially orange), a potpourri of dried fruit, light toffee, and a hint of smoked nuts.

The palate expresses flavors similar to its aroma, finishing dry and long.

A vatting of sherry casks from (apparently) royally significant dates with an outturn of 2012 (get it?) bottles.

Auburn in color, it has a fruit compote nose mixed with citrus, and a little hint of gravy browning in the background.

This mix of the exotic—oil of clove on the tongue, the sweet and light grip—makes for a very intriguing, concentrated, and layered palate.

This is a vatting of different sized American and (mostly) European oak casks, so no surprise that it’s oak-led, but Macallan is a heavy distillate and it needs oak to prosper fully.

Here you get rosin, marmalade, green fig jam, and the power of concentrated oils.

The palate is powerful and supple, with some clove, ginger, and yet more chocolate.

Along with Auchroisk, Mannochmore is one of Diageo’s well-kept secrets.

This 1990 distillate was matured in first-fill American oak hogsheads and European oak butts.

Oily orange notes on the nose, plus vanilla, brittle toffee, and honey.

The palate is substantial, rich, and sweet, with figs, sultanas, banana, and more honey, plus developing cloves.

Very mature aromas of oak and citrus, with a hint of smoke, dry vanilla, floral and spice notes.

Flavors are very mature and fairly dry throughout, mirroring the aroma’s dominant oaky vanilla notes, with citrus, and subtle smoke.

Pleasingly sweet and fruity, with notes of caramel apples, berries in honey, vanilla, and ripe pear.

Fresh brine and subtle mint emerge occasionally and linger on the finish.

Nicely balanced, more complex with a wider range of flavors than the Old Pulteney 21 year old.

Scotland’s northernmost mainland distillery, located in the historic port of Wick, is owned by Inver House.

The nose presents pleasingly fresh malt and floral notes, with a touch of pine.

The palate offers a fuller bodied, sweeter whisky than the nose might lead one to expect, with more malt, spices, fresh fruit, and a suggestion of salt.

Gordon & MacPhail bottled a 21 year old expression from Scotland’s northernmost mainland distillery for the U.S. market earlier this year.

Sweet on the nose, with honey and vanilla; fleetingly, stewed apricots and peaches, plus a hint of caramel.

Intensely focused, sweet tropical fruits on the palate, with barley sugar.

Spice fading to milk chocolate in the medium-length finish, with just a suggestion of brine.

Maturation of the Pentland Skerries bottling of the Lighthouse Collection has taken place exclusively in former Spanish sherry casks, which lends the nose rich, dark sherry and Christmas cake notes, caramel and old leather, along with the distillery’s characteristic saltiness, which here comes across as salted peanuts.

Full-bodied and slick in the mouth, overt sherry, sultanas, figs, spice, and contrasting brine.

Mild maritime notes and autumn fruits combine with prunes and sherry in an accomplished, after-dinner finish.

Here’s a classical Port Ellen, where the intense, even monomaniacal delivery of smoke mixes with damp face flannel, purple smoke, green ferns, and rapeseed oil.

Lots of minerality, to the point of being almost flintily uncompromising.

The palate is excellent, with an explosion of preserved lemon-accented smokiness, touches of Spanish paprika, a sweet syrupy center, before a massive licorice finish.

Delicately floral (lavender, rose) and perfumed, with notes of chamomile, hay, soft vanilla and gentle malt.

With the distillery closing in 1993, now’s the time to act, and this is one of the better bottlings I’ve tasted.

More restrained on the nose than the 12 and 16 year old variants, with green apples, melons, and damp grass.

The palate is silky and refined, with fresh fruits, just a hint of sherry, light spice, and a wisp of smoke.

Glansa is described as a “peated whisky cask finish,” with the majority of its unspecified maturation time being spent in first-fill American oak casks.

Richly fruity on the palate, with cocoa powder, vanilla, caramel, and mild wood smoke.

The dark fruits continue through the lengthy finish, where smokiness increases.

Mature aromas of creamy vanilla, thick coconut, oak, and a hint of mint.

The classic Springbank sea breeze aroma struggles for recognition.

Flavors deliver what the aroma promises, with additional dry wood spices and a very long finish.

Nice balance, with roasted nuts, pecan pie, and more exotic wood on the finish.

This expression from the Campbeltown distillery of Springbank was distilled in April 2000, matured for six years in refill bourbon barrels, and then for another six years in Calvados casks.

Toffee apples dipped in soft spices on the nose, with a follow through of vanilla.

Quite viscous on the palate, with white wine, red peppers, and cinnamon, along with a tang of peat.

Lime marmalade and a touch more peat in the relatively dry finish.

This is the second ‘Green’ release from Springbank, denoting the use of organic barley, following on from a 12 year old in 2014.

This variant has been fully matured in sherry casks and 9,000 bottles are available.

The palate is initially very sweet and spicy, with salt and fruity sherry developing.

As part of a rebranding of the entire Talisker range, Diageo has brought its Special Releases 25 and 30 year old cask strength expressions into the full-time fold, reduced in strength to 45.8%.

Sweet and buttery on the nose; soft fruits and fragrant malt, milk chocolate, and dry, crumbling peat.

Citrus fruits (notably lemon), licorice sticks, black pepper, and scorched wood on the palate.

Dry and oaky in the lengthy finish, with peat notes and allspice to the end.

This no age statement Talisker is one of the first “triple matured” (so-named) whiskies exclusive to Friends of The Classic Malts.

Successive periods of aging occurred in refill casks, charred American oak hogsheads, and European oak refill casks.

Ozone, fresh asphalt, dried fruits, and old leather on the nose.

A big pepper hit in the mouth, backed by earthy peat, Elastoplast, vanilla, and citrus fruits.

The pepper lasts right to the end in the long, steadily-drying, charcoal-fueled finish.

Very sweet fruits, vanilla, new leather, and a hint of brine on the nose.

Smooth on the palate, with smoky dark berries, lively spices, and crème brûlée.

Dark chocolate and slightly bitter tannins feature in the finish, along with ginger and very mild chili.

Deep amber/chestnut/crimson color, suggesting a good dose of sherry cask aging, which the palate confirms.

Syrupy notes of fruitcake, burnt fig, raisin, and beeswax are balanced by resinous oak, polished leather, roasted nuts, and dried spice on the finish.

The 37 years of oak impact is balanced nicely by the sherry, even if both are a bit extreme for what is normally a more elegant dram.

Aromas of a sweet shop-vanilla, honey, marshmallow, and confectioner’s sugar.

Clean flavors, which are very malty and honeyed, with notes of marshmallow and vanilla.

Fuller in body, deeper and more complex than the 12 year old (as would be expected).

Sweeter fruits (honey-laced citrus, lemon gum drops, and ripe peach) and rum notes marry nicely with dried spice (cinnamon, vanilla, ginger).

(The 25 year old is dry on the palate -- especially on the finish -- but the 30 year old challenges you the throughout.)

There’s plenty of oak here, imparting leather, resin, and dried spice notes (cinnamon, clove, vanilla), but it is rescued by sherried fruit, honeyed citrus, and toffee.

This veteran example of Tomatin was distilled in November 1967 and matured for 45 years in refill butt #9315.

Uncompromising dark sherry and treacle notes on the fruity nose, along with gunpowder tea.

Big, old sherry notes on the full palate, with raisins, sultanas, and a sprinkling of black pepper.

Fruity, notably spicy, and not too drying for its age in a relatively supple finish.

This vintage expression from Tomatin has been matured in a mix of bourbon and port casks, and is being released in batches.

The soft, fragrant nose offers strawberries, apricots, honey, and caramel, with a final hint of dry port.

Fruit and caramel notes carry over from the nose onto the palate before dark chocolate appears, along with a suggestion of smoke.

Tomatin launched the peated Cù Bòcan expression last year, and follows it with a vintage variant, the result of “…a rare and unintentional production of peated whisky at the distillery on 7th June 1989.”

Ripe apples and aerosol furniture polish, with a vanilla and sweet woodsmoke backdrop on the nose.

Full-bodied, with intense, sweet fruit notes on the palate, and a heathery, smoky kick.

Thought-provoking aromas and flavors of molasses, leather, vanilla, and wood spices, with a hint of bourbon and rum.

Given that this whisky is so mature and rather light in body, it has held up very well-the woody dryness is balanced nicely by the sweetness of the grain.

Deep on the nose and palate, with notes of dark rum, dried fruit, roasted nuts, dark chocolate, cinnamon, polished leather, charcoal, and a suggestion of peat.

The aromas can be split into four; fresh fruits (raspberry, blueberry), desserts (vanilla custard, bread and butter pudding), antique shop (polished furniture, well-oiled moving parts), and stewed fruits (apple, rhubarb, some old orange peel).

Wisps of balsa wood smoke; tangy orange notes build, accompanied by those fresh fruits, sweet oak, aniseed, and white pepper ending on black treacle and gingerbread.

The finish is epically long; dry, floral, with parkin, residual wood notes, and further smoke evident.

A marriage of two whiskies: 30% 18 year old Caol Ila finished in Chateau d’Yquem Sauternes casks and 70% 10 year old Bowmore finished in Grenache wine casks.

A honeyed, sultana sweetness (from the d’Yquem?) nicely tames the rooty smoke, iodine, seaweed, brine, pepper, and subtle Spanish olive.

A very dynamic whisky, worthy of exploring and debating how well all these flavors integrate with each other.

Peat smoke indeed, and it dovetails nicely with light toffee, vanilla, anise, charred oak, blackberry, seaweed, kalamata olive, brine, and peppercorn.

Well balanced from start to lingering smoke finish, and very exciting.

Glenrothes always has a spicy element, but this example ups the ante considerably and, true to the label, it’s fresh-cut ginger root alongside galangal and coriander, a hint of green grass, and even a little bite of jelly babies, alongside black currant leaf.

Rothes’ normally languid air is here frothily exuberant, with just sufficient vanilla thickness to offer a brake.

behind.

The smoke here is very polite, giving way to fruit jelly cubes and
peaches, to develop alongside crisp apple.

The palate is clean with nutty oak, with

understated.

The nose is sweet (think barley sugar/boiled sweets) with little bits of wheat chaff flying around in the background with dried flower petals and drying cut grass.

Opens dramatically with water into almond milk/horchata and flowers.

The palate is sweet and lifted with those gentle florals to the fore.

Instead of Tormore’s normal nagging rigidity, this flows sweetly over the tongue, leaving fruit leather, stewed rhubarb, and with water, rosewater and fresh wild strawberry.

An aroma that initially brings to mind a woolen mill, then opens into sweet spice, light syrup, with the sense of the distillery’s weight always present.

With water the palate starts lighter and more fruity than you’d expect, then comes rooty weight with, yes, a distinctly gingery slant.

Released in Wemyss Malts’ Cask Strength Single Cask Releases range.

Sweet orchard fruits develop in time along with a pinch of table salt.

Very sweet and spicy on the palate with icing sugar and soft toffee.

Distilled in 1986, this single cask from Blair Athol distillery in Perthshire yielded 268 bottles, and the nose offers sweet fruits, principally apple and orange, plus walnuts, vanilla, and brittle toffee.

Dark fruit notes on the palate, notably blackcurrants and cranberries, with caramel and cinnamon.

The finish is quite viscous, with a little oak, freshly-squeezed lemons, and licorice twists.

A rather moreish grain, and Wemyss certainly nailed the chocolate orange aromas on the nose here.

Bright bursts of rich orange and comforting milk chocolate accompany gentle underlying spices, star anise, treacle-drizzled hams, and Godiva mint pearls.

The palate is easygoing, with chocolate muffins, condensed milk, dates, and milky Coco Pops.

There is oak, but it’s never obtrusive, and of course, cold mocha that fades slowly, until the moment has passed.

Kyloe is the old Scots name for the famous hairy, horned breed of Highland beef cattle, better known in Scotland as a Heilan coo.

This bright NAS whisky has aromas of fresh orange, lemon, grapefruit, and light muscovado sugar.

It is soft and sweet to drink, with lemon sherbet notes, some fruity piquancy, and rich butterscotch, with some peppermint creeping in on the finish.

Lombard’s blend of Speyside malts pleases with an agreeable nose of orchard blossoms, flower honey, caramel, dry hay, and pears baked in brown granulated sugar.

This is a light, sweet whisky that sweeps around the mouth, radiating maltiness, apple, grapefruit, dried mango strips, and mingling spices.

A studiously long finish of sucked caramel candy and beeswax follows.

Originally created by Lombard for the Freemasons, this has a flavorsome nose of dark chocolate chip cookies, light spices, coconut macaroons, malt, and bright, fresh bananas.

The palate is light and unobtrusive, with honey and malt reinforced by the spices running underneath.

A shift develops to some later cocoa and chocolate notes, and the mocha finish fades gracefully.

A finely balanced concoction, and you will rarely find this quality and flavor for the price

The new bourbon casks are evident, and I think it adds richness, vibrancy, and perceived maturity (which I like) when compared to the previous Summer 2010 release.

Brooding, with licorice root, coal tar, bacon fat, damp peat, bright fruit (citrus and pear), and intriguing botanicals, all on a soothing bed of vanilla malt.

I’m still amazed how this very young whisky can taste so mature.

The only Islay distillery not on the coast — and the most westerly on the island — Kilchoman is reviving the tradition of farm distilling, and this limited edition release uses locally grown Optic barley malted at the distillery.

Very creamy, with some stewed apple, green banana, and (when diluted) sponge cake mix.

Here you have the sweetness of rising bread alongside scallop and wreathes of smoke, all lit by west coast sunshine; the peat isn’t dank, but bright and flaming.

The palate is sweetly seductive before the smoke begins to come through, then it sweetens like golden syrup, then the shore comes back, and so it continues.

Water ups the impact of each, so be careful, as it can then seem disconnected.

This strikes me as being the most overtly smoky of Kilchoman’s recent bottlings, and also the sweetest.

Intense and very forward, there’s baked apple, humidor notes, honeydew melon, fresh shellfish.

The palate is amazingly sweet (think golden syrup), then the smoke folds itself over.

A good—and well-priced—introduction for newcomers.(World of Whiskies UK Travel Retail only) £45

A more mature, more sherried expression of the standard Royal Lochnagar.

Rich, silky, and sweet, with molasses, nutty toffee, old demerara pot still rum, caramelized fig, marmalade, and juicy oak.

More subtle notes of honeyed ginger, coffee grounds, and tobacco leaf add complexity.

Adelphi’s is about relaxed, contemplative drams with rich maturity and a certain seriousness.

Here you see this, plus crème brûlée, sitting in front of a sandalwood backdrop with a bunch of basil mint thrown in.

The opening is slow, and while the inherent sweet nature of the distillery is there, hazelnuttish oak helps to add structure and stops any flabbiness from intruding.

This offers an enticing nose of honey, malt, and barley sugar—sweet and floral.

Peaches in cream on the palate, a suggestion of madeira, milk chocolate, and Brazil nuts.

Cocoa, citrus fruits, and light oak in the medium-length finish.

This is the latest in an ongoing series of releases of whisky distilled at the Campbeltown distillery of Glengyle, and now aged 8 years.

The nose is full, with over-ripe oranges, warm honey, and custard.

On the palate, the oranges are fresher and livelier, with vanilla, hard toffee, and a slightly citric fruit edge to balance the sweetness.

That sweetness carries over into the spicy finish, which is quite lengthy, with a lick of licorice.

Having released four previous “work in progress” expressions of Kilkerran, 2013 sees the launch of two editions, one matured in sherry casks and the other in bourbon barrels.

The sherry-aged variant yields overripe green grapes and figs on the nose, followed by honey and plain chocolate, while the palate is quite full, softly fruity, with soft toffee and a hint of brine.

The finish dries significantly, with cocoa powder, licorice, and lots of spice.

The latest releases from Glengoyne distillery are 10 year olds, one matured in sherry wood and one in bourbon barrels, as was the case with release 5.

Initially savory on the nose, slightly earthy, with sherry, new leather, lemonade, and a hint of ozone.

Spicy and zesty, with developing stewed fruits, dark chocolate, and deep sherry notes on the palate.

The finish is long and persistently spicy, mildly smoky, with quite dry sherry notes.

The 2015 Work in Progress releases are the last before the single malt becomes a permanently-available 12 year old in 2016.

Creamy malt, marzipan, and vanilla on the nose, with pears, instant coffee, linseed, and a hint of table salt.

Soft and slightly oily on the warm, spicy palate, with immediate ripe apples, caramel, and slight smokiness.

Following on from the earlier 8 year old expression of this triple distilled Campbeltown malt, the 12 year old first appeared in August 2009 and nicely illustrates the developments brought about by its continuing maturation.

Rich on the nose, with a clear sherry influence, along with toffee, marzipan, apricots, and milk chocolate.

This is a substantial and well integrated dram, with malt, almonds, cocoa, and spice on the palate, while the long, spicy finish offers more chocolate, soft fruits, and coffee.

Distilled in June 2007 and bottled in October 2016, this expression spent 6 years in first-fill bourbon casks, then 3 years in Barolo wine casks.

Fresh on the early nose; herbaceous, with pineapple and a hint of oil.

Big in the mouth, with white pepper, more pineapple, dried fruits, and coconut milk.

Drying to tannins, with dark berries in the lengthy, minty finish.

There’s little quality Port Dundas being bottled, so don’t pass up the opportunity for this one.

It evokes aromas of grated milk chocolate, grilled pancakes, apricot, mango, and poached pear Jell-O, with spice notes of ground cumin, cinnamon, and nutmeg.

A rich, cask strength grain whisky with notes of mandarin and candied jellies.

A dash of water enables the sweet, creamy flavors to swirl around the mouth.

The latest bottling of “Breath” is like a whisky smuggler’s tale.

There’s the smell of old waxed walking boots, wet moss, damp earth, crushed bog foliage — heather, bog myrtle — burlap sacking, and a hastily smothered fire.

The smoke is well controlled all the way, which helps to allow its scents to run over bitter coffee and a balancing central sweetness.

Robust, hairy, and uncompromising, this is less of a breath and more of a roar.

Penetrating, lifted, and aromatic with dill, mint, and in time, celery leaf and lovage.

Smoke is akin to freshly-laid tarmac with some sweet seaweed behind.

Water brings unripe pineapple, clove, sugared almond, and horseradish.

This is a sophisticated and finessed take on Islay blended malt, which must be Kilchoman-free given the age statement.

Driftwood, waxy lemons, soft buttery fudge, banana milkshake, dry grasses, and the gentlest puff of smoke promise calm seas ahead.

A silken dram, anointing the palate with lemon meringue pie, honey, and caramel.

This becomes creamier, with faint tendrils of smoke and dancing spices through to the finish.

If you like warm chocolate ganache sprinkled with cocoa beans, dark waffle cones, praline, and brisket bark, then this is for you.

A brief flicker of chocolate, smoke, cherry, peppery spices, and chili flakes move aside for a smooth medley of dark fruit juiciness and sweetened char notes.

The strident call of chocolate on nosing goes unreciprocated on the palate.

Rich notes of baking chocolate, compacted dry earth, runny caramel, and garam masala highlight the versatility of aromas between these expressions.

Chocolate digestive biscuits, plain chocolate nibs, caramel, a hit of mouth-puckering pepper and chili heat, but the chocolate endures.

Hankey Bannister includes some stunning aged whiskies in its range, but given the trend toward unaged scotch releases, I was a bit suspicious of this.

but nevertheless is a butterfly in a breeze of a whisky; gossamer light, both tantalizing and elusive.

It’s liquid honey, with sweet lime and pear, some cocoa, and to give it a modicum of depth, it’s underpinned

Big, robust, and sweetly fragrant, with honeysuckle, stewing elderflower.

The palate starts creamy, then there’s some caramel toffee with good distillery character.

It melds freshness with the extra weight gained by gentle maturation.

You lose the sweetness with water, but you get more blossom and oak.

Personally I’d go for it neat and sip slowly as a perfect summer dram.

The initial impression is of birthday cake icing with marzipan beneath, then comes preserved lemon, greengage, and discreet maltiness.

The palate is a little strong initially, then a hint of coconut.

Improves further with water, showing a fascinating, subtle evolution: herbal with iris flowers.

This Glenturret was bottled in Douglas Laing’s Old Particular series at 28 years old.

After maturation in a single refill hogshead it was released in early 2016.

Malt, milk chocolate, and honey on the pleasing, mature, rounded nose.

Smooth and rich on the palate with more malt, cocoa powder, and soft spices.

Very long in the finish with quite insistent spice, citrus fruit, cloves, and sweet oak.

The final cornerstone of Douglas Laing’s Remarkable Regional Malts range, this blended malt celebrates the best from the Islands.

The peat smoke finds harmony with the nose of pine, lemon curd, dewy lawns, and vanilla fudge.

This is gloriously full-flavored; the peatiness certainly delivers, but there is a pleasant nip of saltiness too.

The black pepper finish leads to a long lasting salty smack on the lips.

Make this your hipflask essential for bracing excursions along the shoreline.

Rich marmalade, gingersnaps, dried tropical fruits, vanilla pods, and cinnamon bark abound on this limited edition, top dog whisky from Douglas Laing & Co, which includes Mortlach, Macallan, and Glenrothes.

The satsuma peel acidity settles quickly to show off its tricks of green apple, spices, hazelnut, Maltesers, and ginger.

Late development brings out plain chocolate squares, maltiness, and intense coffee notes.

From an undisclosed North Highland distillery, aged in a refill sherry hogshead.

The impact of the sherry is clear, with ripe blackberry and peach.

A floral, sweet, clover honey note rounds out a deliciously lush mouthfeel.

This lushness is well balanced by a spicy mid-palate that features black pepper, ginger, and strong salinity that help provide some real depth.

This cask strength, port cask-aged whisky comes from an undisclosed distillery near Aberlour.

The impact of the port cask is unmistakable, with a nose that is deeply fruity with dried apricot, blackberry jam, honey, and malt.

On the palate these rich sweet fruit notes are well balanced by black pepper, clove, salt, honey, and a touch of dark chocolate.

The underlying proof also helps counterbalance the sweet fruit and drives a medium length and slightly dry finish.

BenRiach releases of this age are often peated or in a special barrel; here, we have an unpeated, non-barrel finish release.

The nose is inviting, with Honeycrisp apple, toffee, malt, and a touch of oak.

A very flavorful entry presents lush toffee, apple, malt, and ginger.

The spice increases in the mid-palate, as well as the heat, but we don’t get much added complexity.

A long, flavorful, and slightly dry finish round out a very tasty but ultimately simplistic whisky.

An Islay single malt of unknown origin aged in a bourbon barrel showcases many of the classic notes of a peated malt of this age with smoke, iodine, paste, and oak.

On the palate the smoky peat unfolds nicely, as it’s exquisitely balanced by honey, salt, and caramel.

The smoke intensifies in the mid-palate but never loses its balance with the sweeter undertones.

A dry, long, smoky finish caps off a well-integrated and very enjoyable mystery malt.

Slightly earthy on the early nose, with allspice, vanilla, then creamy toffee and caramel notes emerge.

Big, boiled sweet notes on the full palate: nutmeg, soft toffee, and aniseed.

Distilled in March 1992, this single cask expression was matured in a refill hogshead (#1266).

The nose yields heather in bloom, a hint of machine oil, vanilla, orange fondant creams, and a wisp of sweet wood smoke.

Smooth on the palate, with creamy orange notes, gentle spice, and, ultimately, soft peat smoke.

The finish is relatively long, with Jaffa orange, black pepper, and drying oak.

The nose is muted, with gentle orchard fruits, subtle malt, nougat, and nutty toffee.

The palate, by contrast, is bold and offers big fresh fruit notes, notably zesty tangerines, along with crème brûlée.

Earthy peat smoke and white pepper with a citrus tang in the long finish.

Part of Signatory’s Un-Chillfiltered Collection, this was distilled on February 25, 2005 and bottled on November 25, 2015.

Initially a little earthy on the nose, then more fragrant, with orange blossom, nutmeg, and a hint of polished oak.

Oily and rounded on the palate, with supple sherry influences: prunes, dates, more orange, and tingling spices, plus toffee.

The finish is medium to long, with a hint of smoke and lingering spicy Jaffa orange notes.

The fleshy ripeness of the 13 year old is still there, but that little sulfur edge has now gone, revealing the ripe fruits massing underneath.

The flowers have become daffodils and bluebells rather than lily, along with a soft, vanilla ice cream plumpness.

Muscly, but sweet; that’s the paradox of the Craigellachie character.

Gordon & MacPhail’s latest bottling from Macduff distillery is a year 2000 distillation, matured in refill sherry hogsheads.

American cream soda and light spices on the nose, with honey, and white pepper development.

Smooth and supple in the mouth, with apple peel, soft fino sherry, and nutmeg.

This expression from Aberfeldy was distilled in April 1995 and bottled in January 2014 after maturation in refill, remade sherry hogsheads (casks #2,488, 2,489, and 2,491).

The palate is silky and sweet, with banoffee pie, peaches, and spicy oak.

This expression of Glen Grant has been matured in refill bourbon casks and is arguably more characterful than the distiller’s own variant of the same age.

The palate is light to medium in weight, offering more fresh fruit notes, vanilla, milk chocolate, and a hint of ginger.

This expression from Scapa in Orkney was distilled in 2001 and matured in first-fill bourbon barrels.

Tropical fruit and butterscotch on the sweet, light nose, with very slight smokiness on the early palate, along with spicy, milky cocoa, hazelnuts, and more tropical fruit.

This unspecified single malt has been bottled non-chill filtered in single cask format.

Maturation took place in a barrel that formerly contained Islay single malt.

Initially earthy on the nose, with potato skins, salt, and white pepper.

The palate is very sweet and zesty, with orange sherbet, along with a nicely integrated maritime note which becomes more pronounced.

I am hopeful this blended whisky has benefited from the alligator char treatment to contribute to the deep, rich color and charred smoke notes on the nose.

A thick, velvety mouthfeel, with butter toffee, toasted marshmallows going gooey on a stick, great spices, vanilla, whole nutmeg, chicory, and the crust of a well-fired fruit loaf leaving some sooty cinders on the finish.

A mighty fireside companion and my favorite Grand Macnish to date.

Apples squeezed in a cider press, sherbet Dib Dabs, and cinnamon sticks comprise the nose of this west coast grain whisky.

It’s lip-tingling at cask strength; the lemon and molten honey tussling with the effervescence of the Dib Dabs before golden syrup pours over the tongue.

It’s like crunching through a packet of powdery Love Hearts erupting in the mouth.

Water encourages peach fondant French fancies flavors, with a slightly pushy fruit skin note at the finish.

Lord Elcho was an 18th century ancestor of William Wemyss, who fought on Bonnie Prince Charlie’s side at the Battle of Culloden in 1745.

With a minimum of 40% malt, this fine blend has a rather perfumed nose of fresh mint, green apple, sliced melon, and tropical fruits.

The soft candy sugar and butterscotch palate builds, with layers of malt, cherry laces, gingerbread, and pfeffernüsse leading to a ginger and spice finish of significant length.

A limited edition blend with more than 75 percent malt content, containing grains from 1978 and 1979, and malts from 1982.

A genteel nose exudes white chocolate, vanilla slice, butterscotch, fresh apricots, and salted pecans.

Commanding and rich, it luxuriates in bitter orange, ripe apricots, marmalade, dairy toffees, cinnamon, and raspberry, with a finish of Seville orange rind.

It’s a little blander with water, toward baked lemons and barley sugar, so resist and take it as it comes.

This was inspired by Stewart Laing’s childhood journeys by steam locomotive from Glasgow to Speyside with his father.

Hunter Laing’s blended malt includes contributions from Blair Athol, Teaninich, and Clynelish and raises toffee sauce, dried banana chips, and spring foliage, with a fringe of fresh mint.

You can appreciate the cool, clean taste; ripe banana and chocolate-dipped fudge blooming into late notes of mocha, ginger, and chocolate mousse.

A confectioner’s delight; Fry’s Five Centres, lime, lemon, kumquat, iced buns, fresh mint, and crushed cardamom that matches the chocolate aromas.

Those re-charred, rejuvenated casks are very much in evidence here.

It has a gilded, satiny sheen, glistening with lemon drizzle cake, butterscotch, orange matchsticks, and banana bread.

Incontrovertibly, it inhabits a signature grain style, but it fizzles out with a sticky, sweet aftertaste, like licking the spoon from the icing bowl.

Overripe honeydew melons, lemon cheesecake sprinkled with zest, vanilla pear muffins, cooked apple, spring blossoms, and icing sugar.

The sweet, sugary opener is burnt out enjoyably by blistering burnt orange, butterscotch, and lemon bonbons.

While the flavor intensity builds commendably, it doesn’t escape without a touch of astringency.

Water makes this sing ‘Oranges and Lemons,’ but go easy with it.

Fruits are to the fore here, super ripe, and dark in hue: think of plump plums, sweet black grapes, and hedgerow berries.

That said, it is never heavy, as if it’s just the aromatics of the fruits which have been preserved.

I wonder whether the new Dalmunach distillery will produce anything like this?

The power of pure burning peat smoke, lemon-scented floor polish, pine needles, salt spray, and delicate vanilla places this squarely among the archetypal whiskies from Islay.

Sweet lemon, custard cream biscuits, and hints of smoked goose lend an oily mouthfeel.

A combustible climax of smoke, spice, and earthy peat kindle a red-hot finish that will have you puffing smoke like a chimney.

Mid-period Garnheath here, the distillery existing for barely 20 years.

This brings aromas of freshly ground pepper, oils, soft fudge, and dry monkey nut shells.

The fudge is smothered by spices exploding in the mouth: ginger, nutmeg, pepper, and cinnamon.

Warm toffees, oak, and citrus emerge late, but boy, this dram has great stamina and length.

Sure, the finish has an oakiness, slight sourness, and a gentle, spicy pepperiness, but water subtracts more than it gains.

Smoky, yes, but the effect is more shore-like: on the beach, hot sand, wood smoke, and a faint hint of balloons…there must be a party going on.

The palate is thick with strawberry sweeties that push back against the peat.

Water calms things (suggesting this would work with soda), while the finish sees the campfire emit more smoke.

Ladyburn malt distillery was part of William Grant’s Girvan grain distilling complex in Ayrshire from 1966 to 1975.

This veteran bottling is mature and rounded on a nose of sweet pears, nectarines, subtle vanilla, and a hint of old hemp.

Fresh fruit and lively spice on the early palate, with worn leather and malt.

The fruit lingers through the very long finish with oak, licorice, and slightly bitter citrus notes.

A terrific value blend of Macallan, Glenrothes, and Tamdhu matured in sherry casks has produced one of the darkest whiskies on the market.

Inescapable aromas of thick Seville orange marmalade, polished saddle leather, too-hot-to-hold sweet chestnuts pulled from a brazier, dry fruitcake, 100% cacao, and Medjool dates.

Sweet prunes, chocolate ganache, cola, tannins, and singed wood spices combine to produce a formidable proposition.

Heavily sherried and oaky for sure; this has been bottled not a day too early.

Diurachs are the inhabitants of the Isle of Jura, and this single malt named in their honor is initially matured in bourbon casks before 2 years of finishing in amoroso sherry casks.

Floral and honeyed on the nose, with caramel, pine, and spicy dark chocolate.

Sweet and oily on the palate, where the chocolate changes from plain to milk, with vanilla and delicate cloves.

Another expression from anCnoc’s first batch of Peaty Collection releases, this has the lowest phenolic level of the trio, at 11 ppm.

Initial peatiness on the nose gives way to sliced pineapple, nougat, and spicy vanilla.

Ripe apple, milk chocolate, and honey emerge out of soft peatiness on the palate.

The nose is inviting, with marzipan, malt, ripe bananas, milk chocolate, and cinnamon.

Very sweet on the smooth palate, with bubble gum, satsumas, peaches, and delicate spice.

The finish is medium to long and persistently sweet and fruity, with a hint of dark chocolate at the end.

Peat smoke dominates the nose of salt crystals, green tea, pine cones, peppermint creams, and charcoal.

The tasty palate has sweet fudge, heather honey, and mandarin, which balance out the ginger and light pepper spiciness.

Smoke catches in the throat as it becomes fruitier in the later stages.

The new Wemyss Family Collection includes two blended malts; this is the better of the pair.

Raisin, date, fruitcake, stewed apple and plum, cumin, coriander, allspice, and new leather leave little mystery about the role played by the sherry hogshead.

Fruity sweetness, but never sugary; there are jam tarts, walnut, and minimal interference from the spices until the dry finish.

The sweetness of the whisky (honey, fruit gum drops, and malty vanilla), dovetail nicely with light, bright citrus and teasing dried spices.

This second release celebrates Walker’s rare fruit character using 29 handpicked casks combining regional styles, aligned to the 2010 Director’s Blend.

Aromas of pear and fresh apple layered over tangy, sugar-tossed dried fruits, pineapple, deep orange oils, and dry peel.

Creamy butteriness with red apple, raspberry, and sweet orange yields to soft, chewy pear skins, honey-drizzled Turkish delights, and charred paper.

An outlier of JW character but important to contemplate how this adds context to the entire collection.

Intended to recreate the spirit of James and John Chivas, this blend uses high proportions of Longmorn and Strathisla malts.

The nose has green apples, peaches in syrup, blended honey, and oat flapjacks.

A soft and light opener of orange sherbet, melon, and dried apple.

Dilution yields a delicious creamy texture with more assertive citrus flavors and bitter peel showing by the end.

A distinctive character from the regular 12 year old, but this should be regarded as an equal.

The assured Scotch whisky that became one of the classic blends.

Dry and sweet, with a nose of vanilla sponge, fresh cut flowers, and marzipan over a malty base.

Pleasingly oily, with flavors of burning butter, malty toffee, and cake mix, with gentle spices and hints of chocolate appearing the longer you hold off swallowing.

A finish of spent spices, cocoa, hazelnut, and a waft of smoke brings it home.

A light color suggests a relaxed contact between cask and whisky, but what this lacks in terms of ‘woodiness‘ it makes up for in all-round deliciousness.

Aberlour is often masked with plenty of sherry and/or bourbon oak; here the distillery character is thrust to the fore and comes out as being highly aromatic.

The palate is vibrant with a touch of parma violet and pear juice.

This expression of Aberfeldy fits between the core 12 and 21 year old bottlings, but is exclusively available in Travel Retail outlets.

The nose opens with a slightly savory note, rich and spicy, with sherry, Jaffa oranges, and sweet oak.

The palate is smooth and rounded, with malt, nutty spice, honey, and milky coffee.

The finish is lengthy, with Seville oranges, plain chocolate, dark sherry notes, and licorice.

Fresh and clean, with notes of vanilla, ripe barley, honey, caramel apple, and toasted coconut.

Creamy and mouth-coating in texture, leading to a pleasingly dry, spicy oak finish.

Fresh, honeyed floral, green grapes, kiwi, plum, and currant jelly.

This expression from the Isle of Arran distillery appeared in 2010 and one-third of the component whiskies were matured in European oak casks while two-thirds came from American oak.

Very fragrant and perfumed on the nose, with peaches, brandy, and ginger snaps, plus vanilla and mild oak.

Smooth and creamy on the palate, with spicy summer fruits, apricots, and hazelnuts.

The lingering finish is spicy, biscuity, and slowly drying, with just a hint of salt.

This single sherry cask bottling from Arran was distilled on February 17th, 1997, being bottled on February 5th, 2014.

The nose opens with a hint of malt vinegar, followed by sherry and sultanas.

Illicit Stills is the first in a trilogy of limited releases reflecting Arran’s distilling heritage.

It includes unpeated Arran spirit, some of which has been aged in port pipes, along with amounts of medium-peated and heavily-peated whisky.

Warm and rounded on the oily nose; figs and peat, before caramel and vanilla develop.

It always amazes me how well this triple-distilled Lowland whisky ages.

This one, at 40, is still holding up quite well, all things considered.

Notes of vanilla, coconut cream pie, butterscotch, hay, wood shavings, sultana, dried citrus, and a potpourri of spice.

Some “old oak” notes emerging from time to time throughout, with a gently spicy finish.

An expensive whisky, but those who pony up the money will enjoy it.

When compared to its younger siblings, this whisky is deeper in flavor.

The citrus becomes more dominant (glazed orange, tangerine marmalade), with added notes of caramelized nuts and maple syrup.

A good dash of dried spices kicks in and the whisky becomes firm and dry on the finish.

My favorite of the standard range is still the 21 year old expression, which has been around for quite some time.

Auchentoshan has launched a range of travel retail-exclusive bottlings with names relating to oak, including Heartwood, which is matured in a mix of deeply-charred former bourbon and toasted oloroso sherry casks.

 Soft, medium sherry notes on the nose; stem ginger, cinnamon, parma violets, and clove-studded oranges.

The palate features wood polish, old leather, plain chocolate, cloves, and ginger.

This expression of Auchentoshan from Douglas Laing’s Provenance range was distilled in September 2000, matured in bourbon casks, and bottled in November 2012.

Opens very sweet on the nose, with vanilla, peaches, and apricots, plus allspice.

Medium bodied, with sweet fruits, new-mown hay, and hard toffee on the palate, giving way to spice and aniseed.

The spicy finish features cloves, and dries steadily, with a final flourish of pepper.

The latest single cask expression of Auchentoshan from Wemyss Malts is 14 years old and was matured in a bourbon barrel.

The nose is fleetingly herbal; then offers crème de citron, turning to tinned peaches in syrup, and finally pine and peppery caramel.

Silky-smooth in the mouth, spicy, with lemon and digestive biscuits.

Freshly-squeezed lemon lingers in the chili and chocolaty finish.

Wemyss Malts has bottled several single cask Auchentoshans in the past, and this 15 year old release is of 342 bottles, provided by a bourbon barrel.

Peaches, caramel, sea salt, and developing lemonade on the nose.

Sweet and fruity on the palate, with more peaches and very soft background spices.

Distilled in October 1997 and aged in a single refill hogshead, 360 bottles were released in 2014 as part of Langside’s Distiller’s Art range.

The nose is mildly herbal, with green wood, heather, and developing soft toffee notes.

Soft and gently spiced on the palate, with hazelnuts, and peaches in cream.

The finish is relatively long, with milk chocolate, and tingling sweet spices.

This cask strength Northern Highlander offers a full and complex nose, comprising brandy notes, stewed apricots, spices, table salt, and white pepper.

The finish is buttery, with a pinch of ginger, and a final brandy-and-soda finish.

Distilled in October 1991, this 20 year old Private Collection expression of Balblair spent 40 months of secondary maturation in casks sourced from Crozes-Hermitage, the largest AOC in the northern Rhône wine-producing region of France.

The nose offers red currants, sultanas, vanilla, and white pepper.

The palate is initially soft and sweet, with summer fruits, but gradually darkens and dries.

This whisky, which was finished in Caribbean rum casks, follows on the heels of the limited edition The Balvenie 17 year old Rum Cask.

The 17 year old was pleasant enough, but quite sweet (I rated it an 80).

This new Golden Cask is an improvement, because the higher alcohol level, along with an array of dried spice, helps to balance the sweet rum notes.

Lively, bright tangerine, nectarine, and pineapple combine with Balvenie’s signature honey, nougat, Heath bar, light molasses, and milk chocolate.

Dried spice (vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg) and gritty oak resin kick in on the finish, rounding everything out quite nicely.

Now if we could only have the best of both worlds -- the balance of the Golden Cask 14 year old, and the maturity of the 17 year old.

A limited edition bottling to commemorate the great David Stewart’s 50th year in the business and, as befits this quiet man, here’s a release that rewards just sitting and listening.

This gives more of a nod to Cognac than Speyside; something to do with the dried apricot, orange blossom, and golden syrup.

The palate is gentle and layered, with more dried fruits, which are balanced by an almost jammy finish where, finally, some cereal is glimpsed.

A savory opening to the nose, followed by figs dipped in lemon juice.

Sweet, spicy cream sherry on the palate, Christmas cake flavors, then black pepper and tannins develop.

Mouth coating, creamy texture-almost chewy-with flavors of toffee, almonds, dark chocolate, and subtle wood spices on the finish.

 This is a very pleasing, straightforward whisky that is quite mature for its age.

Peat smoke and seaweed interwoven with layers of ripe, red fruit (currant, raspberry, cherry), crisp citrus, graham cracker, vanilla, and honey.

(Brighter and more dimensional than the other two reviewed here.)

Benriach is a lesser-known whisky and, for a Speysider, fairly light in style.

This one is very bright and fruity on the nose with aromas of citrus (lemon), pineapple, green grapes, vanilla bean, honey, and linseed oil.

As you might expect for a 34 year old whisky, it dries out mid-palate with some grassy hay notes yielding to resinous oak towards the finish, but the oak never becomes excessive.

A peated version of Benriach that was also finished in a port pipe.

There is a really nice blend of flavors here; a sweet malty foundation layered with ripe red fruit notes (raspberry, strawberry preserve, currant) and a firm blanket of smoke that goes on and on.

This is a new bottler to me and they’ve made quite an arrival with this, a classic Benrinnes.

This is a distillery where meatiness is desirable, and this is as thick and savory as a slow-cooked pheasant stew or cassoulet, with an added herbal and pruney element.

A real sweetness and a pleasing lift of sulfur (which can enhance whiskies) add to the complexity.

This most recent Connoisseurs’ Choice bottling from Scotland’s southernmost distillery has been matured in refill sherry hogsheads.

The nose is pleasing and light, mildly herbal, with cut grass, citrus fruits, and a hint of malt.

Medium-bodied, sweet and fruity in the mouth, with peaches, nuts, and discreet spice.

old expression of Bladnoch.

It was distilled in November 1992 and matured in a refill sherry cask.

Lemon cake, honey, and ginger nuts on the pleasing nose; fruity and spicy on the palate, with a savory flourish, and a honey and malt backdrop.

Samsara is a combination of 8 to 10 year old whiskies matured in first-fill bourbon barrels and California red wine hogsheads, bottled non-chill filtered.

Initially slightly savory on the nose, then peaches and cream, and soft spices.

The palate is supple and sweet, with vanilla, mango, and passion fruit.

The red wine influence is greatly enhanced by the addition of a few drops of water.

This single cask bottling was distilled in February 1993 and matured for 20 years in a sherry butt.

Long in the finish, with nutmeg and plain chocolate cherry liqueur.£80

like being slapped by a wave on Bowmore’s harbor wall.

That marine note
continues: samphire, clams with a squeeze of lemon.

wreathed in peat smoke.

It’s tense and coiled, with real energy when neat, but

The ruby color gives the port maturation away, as does the nose: all plum crumble, stewed rhubarb, and caramelized orchard fruits.

It’s more autumnal than jammy with hints of dusty angelica and only vestigial smoke.

The palate is hot, with those hedgerow fruits and a light touch of perfumed lavender before a flock of tarry smoke appears on the finish.

This was a true double maturation: a dozen years in first-fill bourbon and then 13 years in claret.

In its 20s, Bowmore tends to shed its smoke and allows the soft fruits (here, persimmon, nectarine) which have always been there to show themselves.

The casks have added vanilla, red fruits, and spice, but the overall impression is of harmony and integration.

Less appetizing brine and zing, and showing more “weight” when compared to its sibling.

Sweeter notes of toffee, fig, and vanilla fudge lay the foundation for mixed nuts, black raspberry, plum, nectarine, and ripe red grape.

A distinctive (and intriguing) Bruichladdich, with honeyed malt, vanilla pod, charcoal, exotic fruit, and dark chocolate bourbon balls, teased with suggestions of fennel and espresso bean.

This has good breadth and hints of honey-nut cornflakes on the nose, with the distillery’s sweet, lemon-fresh/floral core still evident, but skewed more toward roasted notes, like toasted rice and sun-dried grasses; even a hint of the felt-festooned interior of a woolen mill.

Raspberries lead on the palate, contrasting with the crisp, nutty chaff notes.

It’s citric and gingery on the finish, but has drive and energy.

The nose is slightly closed, all very delicate, with some hay-like aromas akin to harvest time.

This gentleness allows sweet melon-like fruits to come through, alongside patisserie, icing, gentle vanilla, and an effect like Hedione, the ‘smell’ of sunshine.

Rounded and very sweet, typical of the distillery, with a lightly drying effect similar to powdered icing sugar.

This is a mix of bourbon and wine casks given a period in virgin oak.

The finish initially adds a certain sauna-like element, but then the distillery’s lemon drops and flowers come through, alongside baked apples, coconut, and a touch of smoke.

The alcohol burn is negligible, allowing more estery elements, melon, and red fruits to come through.

Matured in cognac before being finished in Sauternes; here we have a clean, sweet, and well-rounded Bunna’, with hickory-like smoke, bonfire, and ginger biscuits.

Lightly vegetal notes with farmyard elements among the smoke and thick, citric sweetness.

Immediate smoke on top of this mix of spice, Seville orange, apricot, cheesecake base, hazelnut, red fruits, and preserved ginger in syrup adding an almost peppery finish.

This expression includes young, heavily-peated Bunnahabhain matured in bourbon barrels, mixed with 20 to 21 year old spirit aged in sherry butts.

Fragrant, peppery peat on the early nose, brine and fabric Band-Aids.

Smooth and supple on the palate, with intense, smoky fresh fruit giving way to quite dry spices.

The relatively long finish yields drying peat, plain chocolate, and developing licorice.

This is Caol Ila not only in unpeated guise, but from a ‘bodega-treated’ sherry butt.

Full and lush, the distillery’s pear and melon here are in super-ripe guise alongside sweet biscuits, mashed banana, and Mars bar.

With water, it’s more a cabinetmaker’s workshop—but isn’t woody.

The mouth is sweet and concentrated with jabs of raspberry and hedgerow fruits.

Unpeated Caol Ilas have become a regular in the Special Releases portfolio and this expression from 2000 is the eleventh to appear.

The early nose is reticent and faintly floral, with freshly sliced green apples.

Sharp and sweet on the palate, with malt and citrus fruit, and even a hint of mint.

Ginger, mixed nuts, aniseed, and more mint in the medium-length finish.

When this first appeared I found it too sweet, which was strange, as the finishing period is in dry oloroso casks.

There’s more spiciness than on the standard 14 year old, while the fruit seems plumper: more apricot and kumquat.

It still clings to the tongue, but there is an added nutty, oxidized character.

Duncan Taylor’s latest cask strength, single cask release from the Sutherland distillery of Clynelish is 21 years old.

It is sweet on the nose, with hand-rolling tobacco, milk chocolate, overripe grapes, and vanilla.

Nutty and mildly maritime on the palate, with lots of spice, steadily drying.

The latest Wemyss Malts single cask offering from Clynelish distillery is a 16 year old expression, matured in a hogshead which gave an out-turn of 339 bottles.

The nose offers sea salt and lemon, with emerging green apples and vanilla.

Apple tart with custard and a dusting of cinnamon on the palate.

The finish is long and peppery, with a hint of freshly-ground coffee beans.

With the percentage of former oloroso sherry-matured spirit ramped up to 60 percent in this Dee variant, the nose is deeper and richer than that of the Tweed Dram; Seville orange marmalade and a hint of cocoa.

More immediate dark chocolate on the palate, with raisins and walnuts.

The finish is lengthy, with plums, black coffee, and a suggestion of licorice.

Comprising 80 percent American white oak-matured whisky and 20 percent from ex-oloroso sherry casks, the Tweed Dram offers lots of citrus fruit on the nose, with an early dusting of icing sugar, then orange and lemon wine gums.

Malt, toffee, cinnamon, and over-ripe oranges on the spicy palate.

Quite long in the finish, with spicy oak, nutmeg, and lingering dark chocolate notes.

The most youthful bottling in the Constellation series is a 19 year old, which started life in a first-fill bourbon barrel before being transferred into a European oak port pipe in 2002 for a further nine years of maturation.

The nose offers a hint of new leather, marzipan, developing caramel, and damsons.

Zesty fruit, allspice, and ground ginger on the palate, along with thick-cut orange marmalade.

Along with Cragganmore, this is one of the underrated members of the original Classic Six.

OK, it isn’t smoky, but the nose has a deep, soft, honeyed sweetness: think caramelized fruits, hints of thick cream, and a light touch of fennel and sharp citrus.

Thick in the center and very gentle, it’s that chunkiness in the middle that is the secret to its beauty.

There have been three previous Special Release offerings of Dalwhinnie, and this 1987 distillation is the first to have been aged in rejuvenated American oak hogsheads.

Cloves are to the fore on the aromatic nose, along with cinnamon, ginger, fudge, and tropical fruits.

Initially oily and honeyed on the palate, with developing spice, wood resin, and herbal flavors.

Spicy oak in the lengthy finish, with a return to the initial note of cloves.

Distilled in 1989, this edition of Dalwhinnie is the fifth to appear in this annual line-up, and was aged in refill American oak hogsheads.

Sweet on the viscous palate, with unripe apples, pineapple, cinnamon, and honey.

The finish is medium in length, slightly savory, with dark chocolate and a hint of sweet oak.

Youthful, embracing, and fleshy in the middle, with ash, anise, and espresso that grow toward the finish.

Reminds me of a young Islay whisky without the brine and seaweed.

The palate is initially smooth, then fizzy fruits come through, with a hint of vanilla and slight brininess.

Becoming more aromatic and spicy, with tinned apricots in syrup.

Medium-bodied, relatively dry, with ginger, oak, and cloves, before a touch of milk chocolate appears.

Clearly sharing the same DNA as the 10 year old expression, this variant has less overt pear drops on the nose, which is altogether more floral and complex, with ripe oranges, pineapple, and an herbal note.

Elegant on the palate, with orange, vanilla; and contrasting dark berries, black pepper, and oak.

New in 2016, this is an NAS entry-level bottling for the brand, matured in bourbon barrels before spending a finishing period in oloroso sherry butts.

The palate offers soft fruit notes, cocoa powder, light sherry, and mixed nuts.

The finish is medium in length, with milky coffee and soft spices.

Rich, with maple syrup, honey-drenched citrus, sultana, and a good dried oak spice finish for balance.

Well done for a 12 year old, and definite competition for Macallan of the same age.

The variety between this series of single casks is quite extraordinary.

This has a soft and light nose with some mint and liqueured fruit, and a big, rich, and impressive taste with anise and menthol, glacé cherries, and traces of mint.

The finish is warming and full, with the mint and cherry theme carrying through to a slightly peppery conclusion.

The first peated GlenDronach release, matured in bourbon barrels before a period in oloroso and Pedro Ximenez sherry casks.

The nose offers dry, earthy peat, then becomes quite perfumed, with vanilla and lime.

The finish is medium in length, with peat slowly fading and a flaring of spices near the close.

I always think that having “dull” in the middle of its name doesn’t do this distillery any favors.

This is anything but; instead this is a fresh and vibrant example that brings on a Whitmanesque reverie of chewing on leaves of grass: sappy, fresh chlorophyll, coumarin, lime.

These scented grasses—now vetiver—remain in charge on the tongue.

A sherry butt this time, which has allowed the whisky a little more space to breathe.

Although as concentrated as you'd expect here, we can see more fragrance emerging and a big-boned elegance is on show — think Margaret Dumont.

I pick up some rose hip syrup, dried apple, Armagnac/prune, and a licorice note, as seen on the ’62; while on the palate, a good balance of rich chocolatey sweetness to offset the tannins.

The color is light gold, the nose is very sweet and delicate, with a floral aspect that’s not always immediately apparent in Glenfarclas.

This is from a fourth-fill hogshead, which provides creaminess, toffee, a little hint of orchid, burnt cream, and grilled peach.

The palate is akin to bread-and-butter pudding, with that creaminess continuing.

Delicate, with some jasmine, lily of the valley, and even, with time, the rich aldehydes of Chanel No.5.

This heaviness gives a butterscotch-like quality when water’s added, alongside apple.

The palate is thicker than the light color suggests—it’s from a fourth-fill hogshead—with overripe pear and white chocolate; with water, becomes scented with an added touch of marzipan and chestnut puree.

It might be me, but it strikes me that ’Fiddich has more heft to it these days, with a sherried element giving the pear, apple, and light cereal of the distillery character a sweet, plump, sultana underpinning.

This then adds chewiness to the palate, balancing the dry nuttiness and receding on the finish where those green fruits come through to add fresh acidity.

Here, a new solera vat is home to a Glenfiddich that has been exclusively aged in sherry casks, and shows its origins with deep, black fruitiness, orange peel, and sultana.

The signature pears of ’Fiddich
here are dried and sit next to moist fruitcake.

Ripe and long, with toffee, a pleasant wisp of sulfur, and blackberry.

Another from Glenfiddich’s three new solera vats, here we can see the distillery’s light character turned up to the max thanks to a mix of American oak, red wine casks, and a smidgen of sherry.

Think of hyacinth, ultra-fresh William pear, light barley, and grass.

Zesty, clean and light, and ridiculously drinkable with a silky feel in the middle of the tongue.

Pale straw in color, and while it is clean and fresh, it’s also very delicate, with elderflower blossom, dusty florals, and a freshly-starched linen note.

All rather discreet, shy even, but effort reveals a subtly lovely dram.

As the nose suggests, it’s not an immediate thruster of a malt, with some light jasmine tea and a little fleshy fruit on the end.

Either I’ve changed my palate (or was always wrong), or the solera’s slow changes have added depth and complexity.

The nose is all cooked plums, with some blueberry, stewing rhubarb.

All is delicately scented, with some currant leaf, then sultana and sweet dried fruits.

The palate is equally fruity—more hedgerow fruits now—but there’s grip and a little fresh acidity to balance.

Melon notes to the fore early on the nose; floral, especially carnations.

Richer and fuller-bodied on the palate than the nose might suggest.

Fresh fruit, apple juice, almonds, and gentle spices, slowly moving to milky coffee in the finish.

The faintest hint of smoke pervades the flavor, but is very much a ‘bit part’ player in the ensemble.

This is the first expression from Glen Garioch to have been fully matured in wine casks, specifically tonneaux de vin rouge barriques from Saint-Julien in Bordeaux.

The whisky was distilled on June 23rd, 1998, and spent over 15 years in the Bordeaux wood.

Milk chocolate-coated caramels, crystallized ginger, and cranberries on the nose.

Autumn berries on the early palate, turning to cough syrup, with rich malt and lively chocolate spiciness.

The ruby/antique amber color suggests a first-fill sherry cask; the nose and palate confirm it.

This whisky is a mouthful: fruitcake, roasted chestnuts, burnt raisin, candied orange, molasses, leather, tobacco, dark chocolate, wax, and a hint of clove.

Blueberry cobbler, crushed grape, maple syrup, nougat, and spice (cinnamon, nutmeg).

A nice contrast to its younger sibling, and it’s more polarizing because of its distinctiveness.

Glenglassaugh distillery has released a number of country-exclusive expressions recently, including this 37 year old single cask (470 bottles) for North America, under the Master Distillers Selection banner.

Initially, cornflakes and sherry on the nose, with developing vanilla and soft toffee.

Rich and notably spicy on the palate, with dates and dark chocolate.

Persistently spicy in the finish, with background citrus fruits.

Both features put this whisky in a higher class than the entry level 10 year old.

That classic clean maltiness which Glengoyne is known for is certainly in this whisky.

With the addition of some water, the whisky really opens up, becoming fragrant, fruity (cherry pits, apples), along with hints of anise and almonds.

Distiller’s Gold is exclusive to Travel Retail outlets and is dedicated to the distillery’s first manager, Cochran Cartwright, whose ghost is said to haunt the Stirlingshire distillery.

Distiller’s Gold displays a nose of brittle nut toffee and dried fruit, with vanilla and caramel notes emerging.

Spicy tropical fruits on the palate, with an edge of cinnamon and ginger.

Medium in length, pleasantly oaky, persistently nutty and spicy.

Glengoyne’s core range has been revamped: the 12 year old cask strength bottling was replaced by one with no age statement, and this 15 year old was added.

Maturation has taken place in sherry casks and the result is a nose of vanilla, ginger, toffee, vintage cars’ leather seats, and sweet fruit notes.

The somewhat oily palate features quite lively spices, raisins, hazelnuts, and oak.

The finish is medium in length and spicy to the end, with cocoa powder.

The third Special Releases cask strength Glenkinchie is the oldest to date and the first to have been matured in European oak casks.

Peach and pear soufflé on the initial nose, followed by apricots and toffee.

The palate is rich and smooth, with dark fruits, walnuts, nutmeg, and a hint of resin.

Quite lengthy, with ginger and white pepper in the aromatic and subtly drying finish.

Rather sweet aroma and flavors of caramel, light toffee, almonds, and vanilla.

A dryness on the finish keeps the sweetness of the whisky in check.

Well-rounded and pleasingly sweet, with ripe red strawberries, raspberry, tropical fruit, graham cracker, white chocolate, and anise, all on a bed of toffee.

This whisky has a gentle, soothing persona which I think most people will enjoy (me included).

Well-rounded and pleasingly sweet, with ripe strawberry, raspberry, tropical fruit, graham cracker, white chocolate, and anise, all on a bed of toffee.

  This whisky has a gentle, soothing persona which I think most people will enjoy (me included).

This Travel Retail-exclusive from Glenmorangie is the inaugural expression in the distiller’s new Legends series.

Glenmorangie Duthac is matured in a mix of charred virgin oak and Pedro Ximénez sherry casks.

Peaches, tangerines, cloves, vanilla, and toffee bonbons on the nose.

Silky on the palate, with warm spices, honey, intense tropical fruit, and fresh ginger.

Relatively long and creamy in the finish, with nutmeg, marzipan, and milk chocolate.

Rich, thick malty aroma with interwoven notes of fruit, anise, and polished oak.

Medium to full in body and rich in texture and flavor, with chewy toffee, roasted nuts, vanilla fudge, and candied fruit.

Soothing finish, with a gentle sweetness balanced by a soft, leathery dryness.

This hails from the first of Rothes’ stock that was specifically laid down for the vintage release program.

The nose shows typical Rothes softness — woolen blankets and malted milk.

there’s wet linen, caramel fudge, and a hint of mixed berry and dark fruits slowly collapsing into jam.

A touch of sherried nuttiness on the palate is followed by thick clover honey and a little crisp malt.

The finish is gentle, lightly spiced with a touch of struck match sulfur.

Last year, four whisky editors were invited by Glenrothes’ heritage director Ronnie Cox to choose a single cask bottling.

Being opinionated hacks, they couldn’t agree and so two casks were chosen!

This, the oldest, from a refill butt, is for the European markets, and shows hints of rancio: truffle, leaf mold, boot polish, and star anise.

The impression is of faded elegance with tannins, fruit, and spice in harmony, and a hint of pomegranate-like bitterness just on the end.

A very immediate, expressive, sweet start, with manuka honey dribbling on top of baked fruits, sweet citrus, and a dollop of clotted cream on the side.

As if this dessert theme wasn’t sufficient, the palate lays it on even more thickly, with apricot now joining the mass of fruits.

The light grip adds very necessary structure and stops things getting floppy.

The nose is quite hot, but that cereal note (reminiscent of draff) is pleasing, sitting alongside clean apple and orange barley water.

The palate is sweeter and more floral (pear blossom) compared to the nose, though retaining some nuttiness.

When diluted, the finish shows real chocolate and some dry spice.

A rare bottling from a distillery that is more commonly released as a part of whisky blends.

Light fruit and sweet malt define the nose, with apple, apricot, and honey.

The entry is bursting with flavor, centered around malt, along with honey, salt, and apricot.

The mid-palate adds a touch of oak, smoke, and spice, and is extremely well integrated and balanced.

A medium-length finish ends abruptly and a little too dry, the only left turn in an otherwise superb whisky.

Recently added to Chivas Brothers’ lineup of Cask Strength Edition whiskies, this Eastern Highland single malt from the ‘lost’ distillery of Glenugie in the fishing port of Peterhead is perfumed on the nose, with discreet sherry, cocoa, fresh leather, blackcurrants, peaches, and apricots.

The palate is initially sweet, with fresh fruit, but old-fashioned cough drops and black coffee notes soon arrive.

Exclusive to Chivas Brothers’ distillery visitor centers and www.maltwhiskydistilleries.com (500 bottles).

Elgin distiller, bottler, and whisky merchant Gordon & MacPhail has revamped its prestigious Rare Old range of veteran single malts, many from lost distilleries, and this bottling from Glenugie in Peterhead is one of the latest releases in the lineup.

Sweet on the nose, with marshmallows, wax polish, creamy caramel, and milk chocolate.

Quite full-bodied, with white pepper, ginger, muted citrus fruit, and cocoa.

Soon starts to dry…drying steadily through the nutty finish, with musty oak and aniseed.

Sweet notes of toffee and caramel are spiced with notes of cinnamon and cocoa.

Background notes of smoldering peat, oak resin, and clove add intrigue and balance the sweetness.

Ripe fruit (sultana, apricot, dark cherry pits), layers of sweetness (toffee, nougat, molasses) almonds, and juicy oak.

Hints of vanilla cream, honey, heather and polished leather add dimension.

This sherry contribution is clean, not overly sappy or waxy like others I have tasted.

Harald Fairhair was King of Norway and a major figure in Viking history.

This Warrior variant takes us closer to Highland Park’s traditional DNA, with the nose offering potato peels on a barbecue; earthy and herbal, with developing notes of heather in bloom and even violets.

Lively fresh fruits, newly-baked cake, nutmeg, and ginger figure on the palate.

The spicy finish is relatively long, with candied citrus peel and licorice.

The fifth batch of Adelphi’s Fascadale single malt comprises a marriage of two Spanish oak casks and three American oak casks of Highland Park.

Icing sugar, vanilla, milk chocolate, apricots, plus mildly smoky malt on the nose.

Full-bodied and fruity on the palate, with toffee, black pepper, and a hint of peat in the background.

Heather honey, malt, newly-cut hay, pineapple, and very slight smoke on the nose.

Leather, malt, cinnamon, a touch of oak and soft smokiness on the palate.

Medium in length, with a hint of honey behind the oak, spice, and smoke.

Freya is the third release in Highland Park’s Valhalla Collection; unusually, it has been matured in first-fill bourbon casks.

The nose is sweet, floral, and heathery, with pineapple, mango, and a background earthiness.

Smooth on the palate, with passion fruit, and more overt peatiness than is apparent on the nose.

A coastal Speysider, and this is evident in many of the Inchgower bottlings, including this one.

This is quite a fruity dram, with notes of tangerine, lemon, and kiwi.

Soft vanilla, coconut, and honey play in the mix, with a lingering salty/seaweed tang on the palate for intrigue.

Very clean, light, and surprisingly reserved in oak notes, considering its age.

Technically a Speyside whisky, but it tastes more like a coastal Northern Highlander.

It is aged in a sherry cask, which provides layers of rich toffee, caramel, and orange marmalade.

Brisk sea salt notes emerge on the palate keeping the whisky fresh and quite lively-the coastal influence-while deft seaweed and spice add complexity.

Gentle aromas of oak, caramel, and a hint of vanilla and sea breeze.

Soft, gentle flavors of vanilla, toffee, subtle fruit and brine, with a dryish oaky finish.

Peaty bonfire aroma and flavors, complemented by a creamy caramel maltiness.

Subtle notes of brine, seaweed, and a hint of pear fruit spice things up a bit.

Gently dry, moderately smoky finish, with teasing sea salt notes.

I have always wondered what a peat smoke infused Isle of Jura whisky would taste like.

I was also concerned that too much peat smoke could dominate this whisky's flavor profile.

The peat smoke is certainly evident, but the Jura character comes through too.

One extra bonus: it's bottled at 45%, which kicks the flavors up a notch.

Though as pale as ever, this Lagavulin is hardly in need of a Charles Atlas course.

The nose is ozonic, like rock pools at low tide with kelp splattered around.

Sweetness comes in the form of cloudy apple juice and a smokehouse kipperiness.

The palate is explosive, with masses of retronasal action showing violet root, thyme, juniper, tarragon/fennel, and a finish akin to smoked cheese.

This nearly chokingly strong smoke dissipates slightly to reveal oyster shells, malt, paste, and honey.

Make no mistake, the smoke is the star and will remind you of that fact hours after you finish your last sip.

An uber-peated whisky that hardcore peatheads will surely adore.

Another NAS Laphroaig made from a blend of different cask types.

The nose is dry and lightly tarry—a note that continues to the dried glass.

There are medicinal phenols, a biscuity note, then an aroma of fuel, like being on a trawler deck.

The palate shows integration between the oaks, lending a smokehouse aroma.

Water lightens, but you still get that smoky smear of phenol at the end that tells you this is Laphroaig.

A non-chill filtered, cask strength single malt from Littlemill, vintage 1991.

Littlemill’s sweet nose is inviting, with butter toffee, milk chocolate, dried apricot, and straw.

On the palate, these notes are joined by a nice maltiness as well as a touch of salt.

In the mid-palate we get a touch of spice (black pepper and cinnamon) and some citrus.

The finish is medium-length and slightly acidic, a departure for an otherwise affable cask strength whisky.

I’ve known Loch Lomond has been making some peated expressions, and it’s nice to finally see (and taste) some product being bottled with this whisky and its sibling Croftengea, reviewed below.

This is my choice of the two, with greater (and more richly textured) flavors to accompany the peat.

The smoke is balanced (and tamed) nicely by sweet notes of creamy vanilla, honey, gristy malt, hay, and subtle fruit and spice.

The finish remains balanced and lingers with a smoky, lightly salty tang.

Fresh and youthful, yet still nicely matured at 13 years old, and a nice alternative to smoky Islay whiskies.

A big and sappy Longmorn, with notes of chewy toffee, juicy oak, candied fruit, sandalwood, citrus and even some distant smoke.

The standard distillery issue of Longmorn 15 year old itself is a big whisky-one of the biggest in Speyside with its rich, malty foundation-but this expression kicks it up a notch.

Aging 31 years in a sherry butt injects this whisky with a lot more sherry character along with those woody, citrus spicy notes found in so many older whiskies.

While not as clean as the distillery issue and its maltiness is somewhat masked, there’s a lot going on here to entertain the palate.

And although one could argue that the sherry is a bit extreme, the equally extreme dry, spicy oak notes provide ample contrast.

Finished (or ACE’d -- additional cask enhanced -- as they say) in a Madeira cask.

Pleasingly sweet (honey, caramel, aromas of sticky toffee pudding)

with lush summer fruit and gentle spice notes emerging towards the finish.

This time we’ve got Macallan in savory mode, even a little balsamic.

The spirit shows its hand more than in the 1995, with typical Macallan heft.

Now you are deep in a forest of yew and larch with a dark chocolate bar for sustenance.

The palate shows a similar tomato note seen in the 1995 cask, with positive bitterness and wedding cake.

A veritable fruit basket, in addition to nutty toffee, caramel, cocoa powder, and toasted coconut notes, all balanced nicely by oak on the finish.

Super-dense with a note of burnished brass, then light leather and cashew alongside sandalwood.

The waxiness and tropical fruit typical of old whiskies is in the background before it moves into lanolin.

The palate starts sweetly, with added liqueur cherries, earth, and smoke but for me, after the complex nose it fails to deliver, especially since it is so scarily priced.

Mouth-coating vanilla, lightly toasted marshmallow, and a kiss of honey add a soothing balance, while pineapple, nectarine, gentle spice, and subtle seaweed offer intrigue.

Bottling at cask strength and not chill-filtered really brings out more of the whisky’s subtle complexities.

I welcome more single cask, cask-strength Pulteneys in the future.

Explorer Jock Wishart’s successful ‘Row to the Pole’ expedition is celebrated with this 3,000 bottle commemorative edition matured in ex-American and ex-Spanish oak sherry casks selected by distillery manager Malcolm Waring.

New-mown grass, ripe apples, brine, and a whiff of  Arbroath smokies on the nose.

Citrus fruit, spices, and milk chocolate on the palate, with sherry lending gravitas.

The finish is sweet, full, and lengthy, with brine returning at the last.

released with slightly varying strengths.

Sweet and zesty on the deceptively youthful nose, with banoffee pie, eating apples, and quite sweet oak on the palate.

Duncansby Head has been aged in a mixture of bourbon and Spanish sherry casks.

The nose is initially slightly earthy; then Old Pulteney’s characteristic marine nature develops discreetly, along with icing sugar sprinkled on apple pie and a hint of roasted potato skins.

The palate is smooth and chewy, with sherry making its presence felt along with cooked apples, oranges, sultanas, nutmeg, and cocoa.

Dunnet Head replaces Duncansby Head and consists of 80 percent sherry cask-matured whisky and 20 percent aged in bourbon wood.

Soft caramel on the nose, plus a hint of fresh ginger and meadow hay.

Sweet, spicy sherry and a heathery note on the nicely textured palate, with suggestions of citrus and salt.

Medium in length, with lingering soft spices in the finish; ginger and cinnamon at the close.

This one is softer and less vibrant than others that I’ve tasted, but still very much Port Ellen, and still enjoyable!

Notes of coal tar, rooty licorice, toffee, dark chocolate, and nougat, with background citrus gumdrops, ginger, brine, seaweed, peat bog, and damp oak.

I think bottling this at 46% without chill-filtering, or perhaps even cask-strength, would have helped the flavors “zing" (and elevated my rating).

Soft, delicate aroma of fruit gum drops, vanilla, and a touch of honey.

Its flavors are like its aroma, nicely balanced, with a gentle finish.

Aromas of ripe fruit (orange, strawberry, red raspberry), caramel, and toffee, with a subtle, Spanish oak resin spiciness.

Nicely balanced on the palate and very well integrated flavors similar to the aromas.

The Old Malt Cask ‘Royal Jubilee Commemorative Bottle’ appropriately comes from one of two surviving Scottish distilleries with a ‘royal’ prefix, namely Brackla, located in the Northern Highland region, near Nairn.

The nose is like a damp, empty house, with herbal notes, pencil shavings, oranges, and pine needles.

Full-bodied and spicy, with freshly-sawn timber, pine, and brittle toffee on the palate.

The nose offers warm spices, walnuts, malt, peaches in cream, honey, vanilla, and a slightly herbal, earthy note.

Quite robust on the palate for its strength, with spice, sweet sherry, and mildly smoky orchard fruit.

The finish is relatively long, with cocoa powder, citrus fruit, and ginger.

(Reviewer's note: This is a bottling exclusive to Sam's Wine & Spirits in Chicago, IL.)

Springbank bottlings over the past few years have been variable, but improving.

The less inspiring ones have been too heavily sherried and/or lacked the classic Springbank freshness, liveliness, and briny character one has come to expect from a Campbeltown whisky.

It's still not the classic Springbanks we were spoiled with in the 1990s, but it's delicious nonetheless.

Yes, there's plenty of sherry (and these notes contribute lush fruit, toffee, and nuts), but the youth and zest of this whisky cuts through it and balances it nicely, with those familiar brine and coconut notes interwoven throughout.

A bold and satisfying Springer, with more character that the 175th Anniversary 12 year old distillery bottling that has been in circulation.

Similar in some ways to the Springer 10 year old 46% reviewed below, with the addition of toasted coconut and caramel.

Full sherry impact, but the Springbank character does manage to fight its way through it.

Thick, sweet notes of toffee and molasses are accentuated by dark raisin, golden raisin, prune, date nut cake, and fruit gumdrops.

Visit Springbank’s tasting room and you’ll find distillery-only bottlings of all three whisky styles produced by the Campbeltown distillery.

But it’s this malt that will probably attract the most interest.

Glengyle was officially re-opened in 2004, and in recent years Springbank has released a work in progress each year.

What makes this unusual is the fact that the maturing malt is held in a cask which is kept at least half full, and each year it is topped up with malt from 2004, through the solera method.

The nose definitely suggests a work in progress, and is immature, rootsy, and meaty, though some orange and citrus fruit notes are there, too.

On the palate there’s plenty to be encouraged by, with some spearmint and menthol, developing fruitiness, earthy peat, and distinctive salt and spice.

Complex citrus (orange, tangerine, lime, and a hint of lemon), honeyed malt kissed by maple syrup, caramelized pineapple, cinnamon, and a dusting of nutmeg.

What you might expect a traditional 100% oloroso sherry cask-aged Springbank to taste like, with probably the most familiar flavor profile of the four: rich, with nuts and dried fruit, chocolate-coated brittle toffee, plenty of spice (cinnamon, ginger), polished oak, hint of tobacco and smoke.

This bourbon-cask matured 12 year old was distilled using organic barley.

Sweet and intensely fruity on the viscous palate, with developing nuttiness, vanilla, spice, and peat smoke.

The finish is medium in length, with sweet fruit, more licorice, and sea salt.

The immediate shore-like blast suggests that the sweet amoroso casks haven’t been overly enthusiastic in their embrace.

What seems to have happened is that while giving some date and prune they have added an extra layer of oak — giving a charred element — and, like Lagavulin, hints of tar.

It’s a polite Talisker, but the absorption of the smoke means it has lost something integral to its being.

Previously only available as part of Diageo’s annual Special Releases program, and now bottled at the classic Talisker strength of 45.8%, instead of cask strength.

Initially salty, then sweet and spicy on the nose, with summer berries, heather honey, and an earthy note, plus subtle peat.

Spicy and drying on the slightly waxy palate, with licorice, aniseed, and prominent peat embers.

The whisky is creamy and smooth in texture, with notes of vanilla custard, honeyed malt, and even a hint of marshmallow and hay.

This is one of the most polished Tamnavulin whiskies I’ve tasted recently (and going from 40% to 43% in strength provided some extra richness and body).

This 21 year old from Tobermory is of the peated Ledaig variety, though sampling confirms that the level of peating in Ledaig malt has been significantly ramped up since this was produced.

Sweet on the nose, with subtle aromatic smoke, unsalted butter, peaches in syrup, and heather honey.

Luscious and viscous on the sweet, fruity palate, with honey, underlying soft spices, and some gentle smoke.

Gently sweet with notes of vanilla cream, ripe barley, fresh cut hay, sherbet (orange and lemon), and a hint of bourbon -especially on the finish.

An enjoyable and undemanding whisky to drink when the whisky itself isn’t the main topic of conversation.

The "Gentle Dram," it says on the bottle’s label, and it certainly is one of the gentler whiskies in Speyside.

It’s a fragrant whisky too with a firm malty foundation, fruit gum drops and caramel.

Subtle notes of almond and anise helped keep my interest, as did its soft, subtle wood spice finish.

The latest release from Tomatin distillery is a limited edition (3,150 bottles) 15 year old that has been matured in a combination of second-fill bourbon barrels and tempranillo wine casks (the grape of full-bodied Spanish reds like those from Rioja).

The nose offers fruit cocktail and salted popcorn, while milk chocolate, vanilla, and nutty caramel notes emerge.

Soft chocolate, bananas, and autumn berries on the slightly peppery palate.

The finish is nutty, with lingering spice, peppery oak, and finally a lengthy, creamy sensation.

This portwood finish from Tomatin was matured for some 13 years in bourbon casks before being transferred for a final period of aging in Portuguese tawny port pipes, which had matured port for between 30 and 40 years.

Initially reticent on the nose, with soft fruit notes, honey, and toffee, turning to cherry cough lozenges.

Mashy peat notes on the early nose, then sherry, vanilla, and white pepper.

The finish is medium in length, with sweet, nutty peat which gradually dries.

Initially drier on the nose than the Fino expression, then caramel appears, along with milk chocolate and vanilla.

More pronounced leathery notes than the Fino; fuller bodied and fruitier on the palate, with the fruit developing a salty tang.

Lingering salty fruit and spices in the finish, with final dark chocolate.

Medium to long in the spicy finish, with black currant and raisin notes.

Tomatin has released a limited edition (5,400) pack comprising two 350ml bottles, each containing a vatting of whisky distilled in 1973, 1977, 1988, 1991, 2002, and 2006.

One was matured in bourbon barrels (see below); this one in sherry casks.

Initially savory on the nose, then warm leather, sherry, and glacé cherries.

Very smooth on the palate with soft spices, which increase in intensity.

This is the third in a trilogy of limited releases from Tomatin, featuring the different cask types used to mature components of the standard, lightly peated Cù Bòcan variant.

Initially, crisp green apples on the nose, then developing vanilla and caramel.

Soft and sweet on the early palate, with quite dry smoke evolving along with dark spices.

This rested in bourbon barrels for almost 18 years until May 2013 when it was transferred to oloroso sherry hogsheads for a prolonged period of finishing.

Big, waxy, warm leather notes on the nose, then dried fruit and machine oil.

The palate is smooth, with cinnamon, cloves, sherry-soaked raisins, and dates.

Spicy leather, plain chocolate, and slightly tannic oak in the very lengthy finish (1,800 bottles) £100

The latest Tullibardine vintage release to hit the States is another example of whisky distilled in 1993, but now bottled at 18 years of age.

The initial nose features cut grass and sliced melon, with freshly-peeled tree bark.

Quite rich and full on the palate, with cereal, soft fudge, and mild ginger.

The finish is medium in length, insistently spicy, with oak and vanilla notes.

This 20 year old expression of Tullibardine has been aged in first-fill bourbon barrels, like its younger stablemate Sovereign.

The palate is creamy, with strawberries, warm milk chocolate, and allspice.

At 20, this single malt has gained in richness and sophistication, with an extremely enticing flavor profile.

Consummately blended from more than 30 different whiskies, this has chewy Highland toffee, freshly-baked banana muffins, shelled walnuts, and faint chocolate orange notes.

A smooth, full mouthful of blossoming orange, thick malt, heather honey, dabs of espresso, and milk chocolate.

The malty Horlicks flavors prevail to the end with some attractive, shimmering spices.

Note the higher strength here, though the 45% malt content is consistent across the range.

This expression of the triple-distilled Lowland single malt is a 14 year old single cask bottling, and just 314 bottles are available.

The palate is lively and fruity, with lemon zest, caramel, a hint of black pepper, and then deeper fruit notes of ripe peach.

It's not often that the blended whisky section can be described as 'the group of death' but at most other times this whisky would shine.

It's a very good whisky, rich in flavor and punching above its 40% ABV, mixing creamy vanilla, pureed peach and apricot, key lime pie, chocolate, and manuka honey to great effect.

It's soft and rounded, with little obvious oak, and the finish is feather-light, with a slightly fruit sponge finale.

on top.

The palate is sweet and liquorous, with nougat,

The latest batch of single cask releases from Wemyss Malts includes this 22 year old expression of Glen Scotia, matured in a bourbon barrel that provided 304 bottles.

The nose offers soft spices, orchard fruits, and a faint hint of ozone.

Richly fruity on the palate, with mandarin oranges, vanilla, and a sprinkling of sea salt.

The finish is gingery and warming, with light smoke, aniseed, and plain chocolate at the close.

The first batch of single cask releases from Wemyss Malts in 2015 includes this 1999 bottling from Aberfeldy.

The nose opens with overripe bananas, followed by peaches, gingerbread, treacle, subtle smokiness, and vanilla custard.

The whisky really earns its sobriquet with a waxy mouthfeel and a little more smoke, ripe eating apples, and ginger on the palate.

The oldest bottling in Wemyss Malts’ March 2015 batch of six releases, Foraged Fruit Fool was aged in a bourbon barrel.

Orchard fruits, double cream, vanilla, and ginger on the enticing nose.

The palate is initially sweet and fruity, supple, becoming nuttier, with gentle spices.

The finish is quite lengthy, with fruit bonbons, allspice, and prickly oak.

From a refill sherry butt, this bottling of Glen Scotia was released in September 2015 as a 24 year old.

Oily on the nose, with dirty sherry, ginger, chili, coconut, new leather, and cocoa.

The palate is viscous with treacle, dark berries, licorice, and more chili.

Gingery and drying in the finish, with white salt and developing black pepper.

This Clynelish was matured in a refill hogshead and has been released as part of Wemyss Malts’ Single Cask Releases series.

The nose yields light caramel, ozone, warm tweed, and soft ginger.

Smooth and supple on the palate; soft spices, tangerines, and subtle, spicy oak.

From Wemyss Malts’ Midsummer Single Cask Releases, this bottling from Blair Athol was distilled in 1991 and bottled in 2015.

Very smooth and inviting on the palate, with honey, brittle toffee, gentle spices, darker malt, and walnuts.

Slightly mouth-drying in the finish, with cocoa powder and lingering spice.

The latest batch of single cask releases from Wemyss Malts includes Vanilla Summer.

It is an unspecified Highland single malt, distilled in 1997, and the bourbon cask in which it was matured has yielded 263 bottles.

Vanilla, buttercups, and violets on the nose, developing Bramley apples with peaches and cream.

Sweet and floral on the palate, with tropical fruits, fudge, and ginger.

Slowly drying with benevolent oak, but ultimately a lingering creaminess.

Imagine your nose hovering inches above well-dried peat, then throw in salted nuts, brittle toffee, and an intensification of vanilla pods.

This feels more rounded and balanced than earlier bottlings and is the better for it.

Warm, sweet caramel, juicy orange, and lime zest are shot through with peat, the rising smoke driving you back while pepper and ginger give close support.

The most improved of the Wemyss three, but a bit more heft in the composition wouldn’t go amiss.

The youngest age statement Bull in the fold, this one has shredded citrus peel, fleshy grapefruit, candied orange peel, and lemon meringue pie.

Soft fudge, honey, tart lemon, and buttery pastry with a nip of peppery spice under the tongue complete a satisfying combination.

A delicious everyday kind of dram, and I preferred this expression’s brightness and attack of the flavors over the 12 year old.

More rounded, with greater depth when compared to the 8 year old offering.

Not as medicinal and less sweet, more toffee and less honey, with more dried spice interwoven throughout.

This 2016 release follows similar port and Madeira quarter cask-matured Kilchomans, with sauternes casks being pressed into service this time.

The casks in question were sourced from Château d’Yquem and the whisky is 5 years old.

Earthy peat, a savory note, vanilla, citrus fruit, and sweet wine on the nose, while the palate offers smoked haddock, tarry rope, and bonfire embers.

Diageo is releasing five triple matured single malts, all exclusive to Friends of the Classic Malts and without age statements.

Initial maturation was in refill casks, followed by a period in charred American oak hogsheads, and finally European oak refill casks.

Sweet on the nose, with heather honey and gingerbread; slightly herbal.

Cloves, cinnamon, oak, and black pepper notes on the buttery palate.

Medium length in the finish, with lingering cloves and freshly-sawn oak.

Precocious even, and a pallid-looking youth on first impression, but behind that bland exterior is freshness and life with a fragrance that is very un-Balmenach, all chilled Muscat grapes, melon, even some cucumber.

This general perfumed zinginess continues on the tongue, though the weight of the distillate (Balmenach has worm tubs) anchors it well.

After 6 to 7 years of maturation in bourbon casks, this spent several months in chardonnay white wine casks.

The nose offers resinous wine notes, melon, grapefruit, and a hint of vanilla.

Nutty on the palate, with orchard fruits, more vanilla, and milk chocolate.

Peaches and a slightly oily note in the finish, with apples, nutmeg, and a sprinkling of black pepper.

Highly approachable, with soft, earthy peat on the nose, plus pineapple, honey, and vanilla.

Warm leather, ashy peat, ripe pears, and discreet vanilla notes on the palate.

Relatively long in the finish, with peppery peat and ultimately, aniseed.

After 6 to 7 years in a bourbon cask, this is finished for 9 to 12 months in oloroso casks.

Sweet sherry, glacé cherries, butterscotch, and roses on the nose.

Medium-bodied, with caramel, dark chocolate-cherry liqueur, and warming spices.

The finish yields black currant, cough medicine, then allspice, and slowly drying oak.

One might assume this to be just a smoky version of the standard Famous Grouse (with its honeyed malt, bright fruit, and floral demeanor).

But, in addition to the enhanced smoke (which caringly adds a new dimension without smothering the other flavors), there also seems to be more malt body and oak spice in the mix, which I think takes Black Grouse to a higher level than Famous Grouse.

The grain whisky contributes a “drinkability” component, making it a great introduction to smoky whiskies.

The first Kilkerran “work in progress” bottling from Glengyle distillery appeared in 2009, and the ultimate aim is to bottle a 12 year old expression.

For now, we have separate sherry butt-matured and bourbon barrel-matured expressions for 2013.

The bourbon-aged variant offers vanilla, cinnamon, milk chocolate, ripe apples, and ultimately, slightly smoky mango notes on the nose.

Spicy on the palate, with blood orange and a hint of peat smoke.

A whiff of cooking lentils (a lovely smell) alongside lime and cottage cheese (again nice), it gives the impression of a healthy salad.

The palate is sweet and quite buttery, with minimal attention from oak; instead it’s all very spring-like, with good mid-palate sweetness.

Speyburn’s entry level NAS single malt takes its name from the Gaelic term for “golden salmon” and was matured in bourbon casks.

The nose is light and youthful, with malt, vanilla, and unripe apples, while the palate offers more malt and vanilla, plus dry, spicy oak.

The finish is medium in length and grassy, with ginger and further dry oak.

Mature on the nose, mixing the tropical fruits of age with blanched almond.

As it opens, you encounter Moscato grapes dusted with white pepper.

The palate continues this theme with the fruits (blueberry, raspberry, and pomegranate) typical of the distillery character, given a waxy coating by age.

Water rather pulls the flesh from the bones, revealing its age, so leave well enough alone.

This expression from Springbank Distillery is taking over from its highly regarded 12 year old sibling.

It is unpeated, distilled three times, and matured in bourbon casks.

The nose is gently floral, with pears, toffee, and soft oak, then emerging herbal tobacco notes.

The palate is full and slightly oily, with cream, orchard fruits, cinnamon, and sea salt.

After an initial blast of marzipan there’s rosin, stewed Assam tea, some licorice, hard treacle toffee, truffle, and a charred element, all backed with an earthy undertow.

The palate is tight and quite hot, with charred red pepper and a bosky, wooded note.

Not a great fan of water — this is about that deep, fungal stuff — there’s an uplift of sweet dark fruits at the end, offering balance.

Here the educational blend contains 20% very old single malt, which delivers a nose of citrus peel, honey, air-dried ham, and some spices in the background.

Quite delicious, with orange, vanilla sponge, raisin, cremola foam assuaged by plain chocolate, and Black Forest gateau.

This concoction is further tweaked three ways to complete Reference Series II.

A truly great drink in its own right that makes learning fun again.

The strength is immediately apparent, though the nose has a curious mix of potato chips, tarragon, salt, and fizzy sherbet.

The palate is more fruity, quite syrupy and sugary, with a lift of honeycomb and spicy ginger.

It develops spiced orange notes, lime, soft summer fruits, vanilla, and Milka chocolate, encased in a thick, dense mouthfeel with nutmeg, dried peel, and powdered chocolate.

A rumbustious dram at cask strength, but when tamed, it coaxes out ginger-sprinkled papaya and mango.

Glentauchers distillery is another Chivas Brothers workhorse located deep in the Speyside countryside.

Through the aromas of honey, caramel, and vanilla peek barley stalks, hard pears, and hints of Cadbury buttons.

Although this is intended to follow a lighter style, it’s very flavorsome, with creamy vanilla, poached pear, and dried apple.

A noticeable step up in quality than Ballantine’s Finest (see below) with a perceptibly higher malt content.

After Eight mints, Rolo toffees, spring florals, clean and creamy, plus some wood combine to produce an appealing nose.

One sip confirms that this is gorgeously honeyed, layered, thick, and creamy, with heather honey, sweet oak, and ripe fruits, especially orange and mango.

The finish is short, drying, sweet, and the only weak spot in an otherwise decent composition.

With some powerhouse whiskies in the blend (including an '87 Bunnahabhain), it’s a surprise that the nose is so reserved, with citrus, ginger, and honey.

On the palate you need your flavor shovel to unearth a core of typically strong flavors, including leather, oak, salt, dark chocolate, and even rancio.

This breaks Blue Hanger ranks because it's a traditional blended whisky rather than a blend of just malts.

This is a rich, powerful, clean, and crisp whisky with a delightfully balanced flavor of pureed fruits and an unusual, almost menthol quality.

This veteran Old Malt Cask offering was distilled in Glen Mhor, Inverness during 1982.

The early nose is very fruity, with Jelly Babies, then icing sugar and almonds come through, accompanied by supple malt.

A good mouthfeel, with the fruitiness following on from the nose, joined by spicy toffee, a wisp of wood smoke, and old oak.

The finish is medium to long, slightly resinous, and citric with a dash of cocoa and a hint of peat.

The last eighteen months have been very good ones for blended and blended malt Scotch whisky.

Shackleton and Compass Box set out in a fresh direction and there were top releases from the likes of Johnnie Walker and Blue Hanger.

This is well made, tasty, balanced, complex, and drinkable without water or a mixer.

Few single malt whiskies from the Speyside Distillery make it to the U.S.

This noses like a gammon joint glazed with sliced orange and a side order of sugar mice.

Hesitantly, a sip brings relief with dark chocolate, stewed rhubarb, strained raspberry juices, walnut, and burnt bakery goods.

Worth experimenting with water, as lovely candied peel and golden syrup notes peek out.

An aged island dram to mull over during the distillery’s lengthy closure for essential upgrades, this brims with lemon sherbet, summer fruits including cantaloupe, and Bartlett pears poached in cream.

Tangy citrus balanced with ginger and peppery spice, cocoa notes, and black bun make for a lively mouthfeel.

An enchantingly delicate orange sorbet flavor appears when diluted.

Lemon meringue pie, flaked almonds, cereal bars, almost porridge-like, enlivened by the tiniest pinch of allspice.

A ferocious peppery intensity saves itself for the palate, where it tramples all over the lemon zest and apple flavors without mercy.

Once the conquering spices call it a day, this is a sweeter concoction, with soft fudge, brown sugar, and blueberry muffin.

A delicious and inviting proposition, this offers heather honey on toast, marmalade, dark vanilla, and flapjack aromas.

Soft on the palate, there are gingersnaps dipped in thick-cut marmalade and runny caramels, though the ginger flavor muscles its way to the fore eventually.

Water promotes more candied peel, before a spearmint conclusion.

This is really enjoyable whisky for those lucky enough to get their hands on it.

Bottled by Ian Macleod Distillers from an undisclosed producer, this Islay single malt may well emanate from Ardbeg.

The nose offers lemon, rock pools, peat ash, and smoky malt, with a sweet, honeyed floral note at its heart.

Medium-bodied, with big citrus flavors, tingling spices, brine, ashy peat, and aniseed.

88 casks were blended and married in 88 casks for 6 months, then blended with another 88 casks.

Half is bottled, and half retained at Strathisla’s Royal Salute vault for the next batch.

Caramel, toffee, green apple, Jaffa orange, and vanilla pod aromas.

Dark sweetness, fresh orange accents: polished, juicy, and thirst quenching, though the brilliance lies in the amaranthine finish.

The Old Particular non-chill filtered single cask expression of Highland Park was distilled in November 1995, matured in a refill hogshead, and bottled in December 2013.

Initially quite reticent on the nose, then toffee, cardboard, table salt, and very faint smoke.

Quite viscous on the palate, and dry peat becomes relatively prominent, with allspice and sea salt.

What would you expect from an 8 year old Laphroaig? Iodine, massive peat, aggression?

Rather, there’s a soft marine sweetness akin to lobster thermidor, with hints of salinity and tarragon.

The palate initially shows muted smoke, and is slightly medicinal, with balancing creaminess.

Water shatters this idyll somewhat, as the phenols come out in full force.

Here we have a good example of Bunna’ in full ‘welcome home to a warm house after a cold walk’ mode.

Warm, sweet, steamy, with a light mineral note, dried fruit, walnut, and that giveaway gingerbread signature.

The palate is clean, spicy, and drier than the nose suggests, but has a soft center.

This Highland Park bottling appears in Douglas Laing’s prestigious XOP range, and after distillation in September 1994 the spirit in question was matured in a single refill hogshead (#10897) before bottling in September 2015.

Boiled fruit sweets and malt on the nose, with underlying sea salt and gentle, leathery smoke.

Confident in the mouth, with allspice, honey, barley, and wood smoke.

A 27 year old offering from Glenturret, in Perthshire, this bottling is from a refill hogshead that was filled in December 1988.

Fresh mango and ripe peaches on the early nose, followed by a slightly smoky, earthy note.

Viscous on the palate, with orchard fruit notes, coconut, caramel, and nutmeg.

Drying in the finish, with mildly tannic oak, black pepper, and a final flourish of citrus.

Distilled in September 1995, and after 20 years maturing in a refill hogshead this Aberdeenshire single malt was bottled in February 2016.

The nose is soft, with ginger, lots of floral notes, cinnamon, and vanilla.

Sweet and malty on the mature palate, with banana, honey, milk chocolate, and cocoa, plus big cinnamon and nutmeg spice notes.

Drying in the finish, with a drizzle of lemon juice and then black pepper.

Buttery croissants, golden honey, peach stone, rye cracker bread, royal icing, vanilla essence, and dry oak.

It’s sweet and sticky with icing sugar and yellow fruits before a scorching alcohol burn kicks in, lasting 30 seconds.

It settles down to banana custard and vanilla, becoming tangy with candied peel, Turkish delight, and Edinburgh rock.

Careful—water disables the flavors all too easily, though adds some toasty spice and warmth.

Can it really be six years since the distillery closed and they demolished the chimney stack?

This nose has a much stronger grain character than the other two Old Particular releases, so one to try before you buy.

Beach driftwood and toasted spice aromas, with flavors of warm butterscotch, mandarin, and peach on a peppery base, shuffling into dried fruits and muscovado sugar before a spicy nougat finish.

This cask strength whisky is malty in the nose, along with peach, nectarine, and subtle oak.

The entry is all malt, the kind of flavor that evokes "malt reverence."

In the mid-palate it’s cereal grains spiced with allspice and black pepper.

The finish is long and slightly salty, with a fair amount of heat from the alcohol, and a touch of oak.

If you love the singular flavor of malt, this one may be for you.

An uplifting nose of golden honey, linseed oil, vanilla, sanded oak, and wheat biscuits on this west coast grain.

Banana and ripe fruits are followed by juicy orange before a snarling pepper onslaught ensnares the tip of the tongue, igniting a glowing ball of white heat underneath.

Water emphasizes the oak and mellows the dram to the flavor of almond-sprinkled custard.

This single cask, cask-strength bottling was matured in a port hogshead.

Slightly sharp on the initial nose, savory, and a touch vegetal.

The palate is full and malty, offering creamy toffee, hazelnuts, ripe peaches, and ginger.

Creaminess lasts through the cinnamon-spiced medium-length finish.

Vanilla ice cream drizzled in caramel and speared with a couple of wafers.

Ground hazelnut, faint dashes of cinnamon, and garam masala complete the nose.

A brief opener of rich toffee and tangy citrus is overrun with a piquant, acidic rush and nippy alcohol flare.

It’s actually light in texture, and a largely absorbing experience, ending on some dusty marshmallow notes, though never losing the tanginess.

Water accentuates the tangerine and mandarin but negates the mallow candy flavors.

Cask # 1013 from Edradour was filled on March 5th, 2002 and bottled on February 26th, 2014 at 11 years of age.

The nose yields sultanas, cloves, and sherry, plus an earthy aroma and a hint of machine oil.

The palate is silky, with sweet sherry, digestive biscuits, soft spices, dates, and figs.

The finish is medium and fruity, with dark chocolate-covered candy.

The closed grain distillery niche is small, but Cambus rightly has its followers.

The latest in a series of sequential cask releases from Signatory, this refill butt signals a grassy nose of green hay bales, tangerine, potting compost, white pepper, and almond-studded nougat.

To drink, it’s like joyously biting into a tangerine marshmallow, to be rewarded with thick cloudy puffs of flavor with a peppery accompaniment.

  Dabble with the water to reveal the delights of orange creamsicle pie.

A 1996 expression is the latest Clynelish to take its place in the Connoisseurs’ Choice lineup.

Fruity on the nose, with ripe bananas, malt, dark toffee, lemongrass, and a splash of brine.

Relatively full-bodied, creamy and slightly waxy on the palate; spicy sherry, Golden Delicious apples, and old leather.

Independent bottler Gordon & MacPhail offers a variety of Balblair expressions, including a 1969 vintage and this 10 year old in their Distillery Labels series.

Matured in a mixture of refill sherry hogsheads and first-fill bourbon barrels.

The nose offers rich, warm fruits, vanilla, sherry, maraschino cherries, and ultimately toffee and orange blossom.

Medium-bodied, sweet and fruity, with nutty milk chocolate, white pepper, and zesty spice.

Sweet on the nose, with malt, stewed apple, apricots, sherry, and warm spices.

Quite viscous in the mouth; the palate continues the sweet, malty, spicy theme.

With a bottle shape that makes you want to go bowling, this blend has admirable balance between the fruit and the smoke on the nose.

The bonfire smoke is matched with aromas of tarte tartin, pecan nut, red apple, and sultana.

Smooth and molten in the mouth, it has more weight and body than its older brother.

There is citrus, apples, and the late arrival of baked spices, cookie dough, and mint chocolate on the finish.

Light amber with that touch of acetone, along with marzipan, green apple, fruit blossom, and a runny caramel toffee/crème brûlée which adds width, while toasty oak and ginger biscuit give structure and spice.

Again, a lovely, almost oily feel — it’s Dewar’s equivalent of Linkwood — balancing fragrance with surprising depth in the mouth.

This is bursting with barley, sweet oak, and all-butter shortbread.

The taste is like a warm hug on a cold morning; flavors of butter toffee, orange, poached pear, and ginger snaps, which combine to keep that deep smoke in balance.

The harmony continues into the lengthy finish with flavors of citrus, melon, and ground ginger.

This wee, sleekit, cow’rin, tim’rous beastie is a blended malt of Highland whiskies from Douglas Laing, the latest of their regional recipes to join Scallywag and Big Peat.

Perfumed soaps in muslin bags, dried sprigs of heather, beeswax, and Edinburgh rock give this an intriguing bouquet.

Ripe, yellow fruits and spices mid-palate conclude with sweet malt and fading creaminess sweeping around the gums.

Soft and floral with perfumed lavender soap, peach, green apple, and parma violets.

It floats in the mouth, dispensing flavors of sweet apple, custard, tangy tangerine, hard candies, green plum, marshmallow, and white pepper.

Delicious and accomplished, but there’s an overlap here: it feels like the NAS version had a birthday, rather than the arrival of a new member of the family.

Drawn from a pair of casks filled back in 1962, this brings out dried mango strips, white chocolate, melon, honeysuckle, and light vanilla with pepper and cumin around the fringes.

Maple syrup flavors with plenty of thick tannins, but its vitality is intact.

Darker, verging on bitter notes appear later on as it melds into rootsy, funky territory with burnt butter, deep vanilla, treacle, and spiced coffee.

The stills ran cold in this lost Islay distillery at Ballygrant in the 1860s.

Excitingly acrid smoke on the nose: like fireworks or the smoking muzzle of a rifle mingled with summer lemons and crunchy green pear.

Poached pears in cream, greengages, and peppercorns meet a stealthy, sour gooseberry takeover.

Fades to a chalky, sour fruit plateau before a chili heat finish.

Identifiably Caol Ila, with that light juniper note, lime, and very calm smoke.

This sense of control continues as it opens very slowly into vanilla/cream with a little hint of salt, then fresh lychee.

It is hot, so do water as this introduces a massively salty retro-nasal effect under which is this sweetly gentle mid-palate.

Distilled in 1996 and bottled in June 2015 after maturing in sherry casks, this Cooper’s Choice expression of Ben Nevis yields an initially savory character, with ripe figs, treacle, and a hint of tar.

Quite chewy in the mouth, with spicy toffee and cherries, which develop into more citric fruit over time.

The finish is lengthy and warming, with a hint of oak and black coffee.

This refill butt has produced a perfumed and aromatic whisky with peach, green foliage, maize, a spritz of melon juice, and a pinch of ground cinnamon and nutmeg rubbed between the fingers.

Ginger sears the lips before the warmth of the ginger invades the mouth.

The satin texture of honey and vanilla concludes with Spangles, before it enters a long, mouth-coating finish of sweet ginger.

With water, soft, ripe fruit abounds; the ginger harmonizes rather than attacks.

At this stage there’s not a lot of cask, but there is an insanely intense smoky, herbal note like eucalyptus, celery, spruce, pine resin, then some angelica and a crisp mineral edge.

The palate is balanced between this intensity, big smoke, and Bruichladdich’s typical oily, sweet core.

Named after the warehouseman’s preferred piece of pilfering paraphernalia, the 125 year old Craigellachie Hotel’s Copper Dog bar now boasts its own whisky.

It’s an appealing blend of eight Speyside malts, with honey, warm toast, pecan nut, apple turnover, fudge fingers, and orange peel.

Vanilla, orange pith, wood spice, caramel, and fresh apple develop into creamy nougat.

Takes a while to come into focus, then concludes with a spicy finish.

Matured for 6 to 8 years in bourbon casks before finishing in sherry casks.

The early nose is earthy, with dough balls, then sweeter sherry notes emerge, with ripe tangerines and honey.

Sweet sherry fills the full palate with black pepper and developing raisins.

Plain chocolate, black pepper, and aniseed in the relatively long finish.

Nutty nose, with toasted oak, savory peppered meats, and traces of wood smoke.

It starts off deceptively lightweight, with sweet juicy mandarin before a takeover of sharper citrus elements.

Honey and gorgeous silky caramels slink by, chased by a gentle swish of spice.

Light pepperiness with chocolate notes ushers in an aromatic finish.

The decline in the Spanish market has resulted in Cardhu becoming more widely available, which is A Good Thing as far as I am concerned.

This is a grassy malt, which at 12 years also has a heightened citric spray of sweet orange zest and a gingery aspect (it’s great with ginger ale).

Intense and vibrant with macadamia and a light heathery note, the palate confounds expectations, having a thick chewiness before the grass zings through, adding lift.

One of two blended whiskies vying to be the official next Great King Street release, this is the peated version and it's gustier than the original, with less citrus and more peat.

Indeed, it's impressively full-flavored, with peat in the driving seat and ginger cake, lime, and dark chocolate, biscuits and pepper in the mix.

Best of all, unlike far too many Scotch whiskies this year, it doesn't use peat to hide immature spirit.

For the past few years, Famous Grouse vintage vatted malt has been produced but not sold here in the U.S.

This version being introduced to the U.S. is a non-vintage expression, and I don’t think it really matters.

Major components of The Famous Grouse blended whiskies have included The Macallan and Highland Park, and there’s no doubt these malts are providing some of the richness and flavor complexity in this new expression.

The whisky is quite hefty, with notes of juicy fruit, toffee, almonds, heather, and a wisp of vanilla and smoke.

This has enticing flavors that will meet with the approval of the regular Grouse drinker: heady florals with fresh peach, light honey, pecan, and underlying caramel.

The palate is soothing with vanilla and tangerine, hallmarks of Grouse, plus rosewater, almond, and whispering spices.

This showcases the Midas touch of Gordon Motion’s skills in liquid alchemy.

My feelings are well recorded on premium whiskies bottled at 40% and if you were to ask me whether the whisky's worth the price tag, the answer's no.

It has a light, dusty, and fruity nose reminiscent of raspberry sherbet, and on the palate there is trademark smoke, and pleasant toffee and treacle.

A new oloroso-forward Chivas positioned to split between the 12 and 18 year olds?

Refined and inviting nose of lemon pith, black fruits, and Kola Kubes.

The velvety texture is wonderfully smooth, redolent of an apricot custard Danish, lime zest, raisin, currant, mixed peel, and walnut, with a growing bitter-lemon note.

Quite unique finish, like sucking on lumpy Spanish lemons speckled with spices.

(LA, NY, Miami, Chicago, Northern California, but will go national)

Here, the blend is finished in virgin and first-fill bourbon casks especially charred, then scratched to enable deeper penetration.

Thick wedge of vanilla and fudge with oaky accents, a dusty mouthfeel pulling in vanilla, light lemon, milk chocolate, and sweet toffee, ending on a cocoa powder note.

Compared with regular White Label, this is less obviously sweet and creamy, adds complexity, and opens a bourbon connection.

Vanilla laced with spice, fondant icing, grapefruit peel, and lime zest leave the vanilla and floral notes lower down the pecking order.

In the mouth, grapefruit and orange dominate the vanilla, yet the mouthfeel is thinner and the acidity tips toward the taste of bitter orange seeds.

Honey, fudge, a little melon and white grape, dry roasted spices, and peppercorn, but noticeably less fruit than the age-statement varieties.

The palate has pulpy white melon, lemon, lime, and some grapefruit acidity, before sweetening with honey.

Quite tart at times, some peppery spice collaborates before the vanilla cream and green fruits take charge.

A clean, juicy finish of lemon zest and mild spices coats the throat.

Notes of peaches and cream, meadow flowers, subtle berry fruits, soft vanilla, and light honey.

A good example of a lighter-style mature blend, and quite the antithesis of the Johnnie Walker Blue Anniversary bottling reviewed above.

A pleasing warm weather scotch, or perhaps before dinner as an aperitif.

Ardmore whiskies I’ve enjoyed in the past have been soothingly malty.

Many have also been recognizably smoky, which is rare for a Speyside whisky.

This one, aged in a first fill bourbon barrel, is true to its roots.

It is a clean whisky, with a creamy, soothing maltiness throughout.

The palate is entertained by notes of vanilla and honey, with anise, white pepper and a teasing smokiness.

The thick maltiness and soft smokiness linger long on the finish.

Predominantly fruity -- the sherry cask is obvious, but it’s not heavy or dominant.

Clean, bright orchard fruit blends in nicely with strawberry rhubarb pie, light toffee, dates, dark chocolate, and polished oak.

Distilled in February 2000 and matured in a single refill hogshead, this example of Arran is part of the Provenance range which highlights the season of distillation on the bottle label.

Malt, salt, milk chocolate, vanilla, and developing citrus notes on the fragrant nose.

Quite full in the mouth, fruity and zesty, with a hint of grist.

Long and softly spiced in the finish, with almonds and a final suggestion of aniseed.

Isle of Arran Distillers has introduced a second edition of its Orkney Bere expression, made with an ancient variety of barley still cultivated in the Orkney Islands and aged in bourbon barrels.

It is a cask strength 10 year old variant, and 4,890 bottles are available.

The nose is quite oily, with ripe peaches and pineapple cubes, plus developing floral notes.

Viscous and sweet on the palate, with tangerines, caramel, and rich spices.

The finish is lengthy, with coconut and milk chocolate-coated caramel.

Style: Lowland single malt scotch Color: Antique Gold Aroma: Dry but creamy, with notes of vanilla, marshmallow, honey, and tropical fruit (pineapple, coconut).

Palate: Malty and creamy up front, with vanilla, marshmallow, and a hint of honey; briefly becoming fruity (again, the tropical fruits) before turning dry and oaky, with a big, long, dry finish (especially for a triple-distilled Lowlander).

   General Comments: As I have written in the past, Lowland whiskies are known for maturing nicely at a younger age.

But most people don't know that some (especially Auchentoshan) are delicious at older ages too.

As mentioned in my 'From the Stills' column, older vintages of Auchentoshan are now only being offered to individual retailers, one cask at a time, and this is one of those casks.

It is one of many 1966 vintage Auchentoshan whiskies I have enjoyed over the past 15 years.

Auchentoshan, from a balance and complexity perspective, seems to be best in the 20-30 year old range.

Still, having said this, this one holds up fairly well for its age.

This 1998 vintage triple distilled Lowland Auchentoshan has been matured in fino sherry casks, which are rarely used for Scotch whisky maturation.

The nose presents violets in fresh soil, honey, spice, developing citric fruit notes, and almonds.

Auchentoshan Valinch is essentially a cask strength version of the popular Classic expression.

It is named after the metal tube used to extract samples of spirit from the cask.

A nose of tinned peaches in syrup, Madeira, cinnamon, newly-planed wood, coconut, and vanilla notes.

Sweet and spicy on the creamy palate, with vanilla, honey, and praline.

Part of Auchentoshan’s new travel retail line-up, Springwood carries no age statement, contains younger whiskies than Heartwood, and has been matured in 100 percent ex-bourbon wood.

Acetone, tinned peaches in vanilla, and whipped cream on the floral nose.

The palate is clean and fruity, initially citric, with emerging apricots in honey, and fresh spices.

More spice in the finish, with focuses on milk chocolate, cinnamon, and a suggestion of Madeira.

This is the second edition of Auchentoshan’s cask strength Valinch bottling, which carries no age statement and has been matured in first-fill bourbon casks.

As with the previous Valinch expression, only 2,000 cases have been released globally.

Very fragrant on the nose, with pears, applesauce, and vanilla fudge.

A touch of (not unpleasant) new make spirit comes through in the relatively lengthy finish.

Batch 2 runs to 295 bottles and, in common with the rest of the range, carries no age statement.

Peaches in brandy, ginger, honey, and milk chocolate on the pleasingly floral nose.

The palate is silky, with more floral notes, plus cedar, oak, and soft spices.

Exclusive to the Travel Retail arena, this expression of Auchentoshan was aged for 14 years in a mix of bourbon and oloroso sherry casks.

The nose yields polished oak, malt, milk chocolate, marzipan, figs, apricots, and ginger.

Rich and full on the palate, spicy, with vanilla, mango, and finally Seville oranges.

Medium to long in the finish, with almonds, soft oak, and warming spices.

A non-chill filtered bottling matured in a mixture of bourbon and red wine casks.

The nose offers a big early orange hit, vanilla, and red wine notes.

Smooth on the palate; more orange, black pepper, and spicy red wine.

  The finish is relatively long and spicy, with bitter chocolate orange.

Here’s the older sibling to the 1997 vintage released in U.S. at the same time.

I like the less expensive 1997 vintage better (because of its lovely balance and creamy texture).

Still, this 1991 vintage is a nice whisky, rich with vanilla, coconut cream, citrus (orange, tangerine), pineapple, and sultana.

A soothing, mouth-coating texture lingers, with some polished oak on the finish.

Balblair has released two Travel Retail-exclusive variants of its 2004 vintage, matured in bourbon barrels and sherry casks respectively.

The Sherry Matured version was aged in American and Spanish oak sherry butts.

The palate features lively spices, cooking apples, vanilla, medium-sweet sherry, and hazelnuts.

This Balblair vintage replaced the previous 1997 bottling, and maturation took place in a mix of bourbon barrels and sherry butts.

The nose offers milk chocolate, candied ginger, caramel, honey, and musty oranges.

Relatively dark fruits on the palate, with licorice, honey, and vanilla.

The newest release in Balvenie’s limited edition range, and the first venture back into smoke since the “Islay Cask” limited release several years ago.

Some of this whisky was finished in a peated cask, some in new American oak.

Both influences emerge with the smoke (jerky with a hint of kippers) and spice (cinnamon, vanilla, nutmeg) on a foundation of honeyed malt.

Balvenie is one of those big Speyside whiskies that can stand up to the smoke.

This one will not appeal to everyone, but it makes for an interesting diversion.

Here, the distillery character is more restrained, as if it is taking a period of calm reflection before the next evolution.

There’s slightly more maltiness here and the texture has changed into a light acacia honey stickiness and a development of more oxidized notes, showing a gentle maturation.

It’s one I kept going back to; teasing, slightly elusive, but rewarding.

An attempt to replicate the spirit produced at Ben Nevis in 1882.

The malt is peated to around 30 ppm, and a first edition of 700 bottles with no age statement has been released.

Initial starch on the nose, then buttery smoked haddock, a hint of chili, sherry, and gentle wood smoke.

A peated version of BenRiach, with the tarry smoke melding nicely with toffee, bramble, and rhubarb.

Lingering earthy smoke on the finish and slightly tannic, with subtle fruit.

(Exclusive to Park Ave Liquors, New York, NY) A rich, clean, bright whisky, with aromas of honey, marshmallow, vanilla, and a mélange of fruit (orange, peaches, lemon, pineapple).

Creamy in texture and richly flavored without being heavy or cloying.

The various fruit notes dance on the palate and add complexity to the sweetness.

Great after dinner-given its considerable weight, but lively enough to have before dinner.

This one stands out from the other three because of its port wood finishing.

You’ll discover lush fruit and a rich nuttiness on top of the typical flavors expressed in the 18 year old.

Additional layers of intense spice and oak notes balance the whisky’s sweetness and fruit.

A new member of the core range, this has a cinnamon spice nose with wood smoke elements that grow into hickory as it opens.

Medium-bodied and juicy, there’s light sherried notes on the tongue, alongside perky acidity, especially with water.

The smoke has better integration on the palate, allowing tangerine and sultana to come through.

G&M’s aim has always been to make a classic pre-60s Speysider, and that’s achieved here.

Following on from the official 8 year old release of Bladnoch, distilled and matured under the current Raymond Armstrong regime, comes a 9 year old variant in the familiar distillery label series.

It offers a spring-like nose of cereal, freshly-squeezed lemon juice, meadow flowers, and a hint of milky coffee.

Spicy toffee, apples, honey, and ginger on the palate, which finishes with a floral note, lemon, apples, and lively oak.

This 12 year old example of Diageo’s Perthshire single malt has been matured in a sherry butt and features milk chocolate, malt, and digestive biscuits on the nose; becoming fruitier, notably with lemon curd.

The palate is rich, sweet, and spicy, with barley, honey, and white grapes.

Every once in a while you get whisky where the palate is completely different than the nose.

Aged in bourbon casks and 37 years old, its aroma expresses tropical fruits (similar to other older Bowmores), with papaya, lemon, mango, strawberry, coconut, and banana.

This is balanced by vanilla, crème brûlée, honey, and just a wisp of smoke.

Bowmore’s Islay roots are more expressive on the palate, which starts off sweet and slightly oily, quickly evolving to tropical fruit, damp oak, and then leafy smoke through to the finish.

The sweetness emerges again towards the finish, with subtle brine and seaweed.

Complex, exotic aromas of vanilla fudge, coconut, white chocolate, plum, cherry, citrus, and a hint of smoke and bourbon.

On the palate, there’s a brief encounter of caramel and fruits mentioned above.

After that, most of the flavors come from the wood-dry vanilla, mint, layered spicy oak notes, with some smoke emerging from time to time.

But the flavors on the palate are less exotic and more influenced by the wood.

Aged in a sherry cask, and the lush fruity notes add dimension and richness without masking the whisky’s other flavors.

Its flavors are reminiscent of crumbled peat thrown over a campfire; damp earth, anise, and floral notes throughout, dovetailing with the lush sherried fruit.

This is quite a saline Bowmore, but there is sufficient sliced apple, cut flowers, and fragrant smoke to give some degree of complexity to the nose.

With water you get crisp oak, roasted barley, a hint of nectarine, bison grass, and wet reeds.

Starting lean in the mouth, it darkens slightly into brambles and a dusty smokiness before picking up a citric tang on the finish.

The mid-priced Fèis Ìle release took Bowmore off into darker than usual territory.

The key here was how the cask (PX is, after all, as sweet a sherry as you can find) had been so well controlled.

Rather than being a thick, sweet mess, a balance was struck between the two elements: the cask added density and raisined fruit, while the distillery gave aromatic smoke and orange, and both combine to layer on molasses, leather, and dark chocolate.

The latest addition to Bowmore’s core range is presented at the unconventional age of 9 years.

Matured predominantly in oloroso sherry casks, with some bourbon cask-aged spirit thrown into the mix.

The result is a whisky featuring drinking chocolate, black pepper, and soft peat on the nose.

Sherry and sweet peat notes merge nicely on the palate, with dates, plums, and light caramel.

Invigorating notes of brine, spice (especially pepper and mustard seed), tropical fruit, and vanilla malt, and an appetizing, lingering brine finish.

Well-rounded, and a nice balance between youthful zing and maturity.

My only wish is to see this bottled at a higher strength and not chill-filtered 

An interesting nose that’s somewhat akin to a peach cheesecake with slightly burnt pastry, or a heavily caramelized crème brûlée.

In the mouth, however, it comes through massively, mossy and oily and sitting on top of those fat fruits and sweet malt.

Great potential, with a sweetness that shows it’s pretty much there.

More mature peated Bunnahabhain Islay whiskies are emerging (like this one).

Indeed, tarry, peat ash notes are evident throughout this one (especially on the finish!), along with nutty toffee, nougat, smoked olive, glazed ginger, and candied lime.

Pretty even-keeled, not as medicinal and aggressive as its cousins on the southern end of the island.

If you’re looking to ease your way into smoky Islay whiskies, this would be a good start.

Pale gold, with nettles and green apple on the nose alongside almond, light bread crust, and freshly-baked sponge cake.

There are mineral accents and, with water, the signature ginger.

This is master blender Ian MacMillan’s interpretation of what Bunna’ would have tasted like when the distillery was founded in 1881.

There’s light smoke, coming across like smoked halibut, a mineral edge, white fruits, and a freshness like a freshly starched shirt.

On the palate, the smoke offers a slightly peppery, almost Talisker-esque kick.

Though there’s no age statement, none of the whiskies are under 10 years.

The rum influence is subtle - which I like - and it offers a new dimension to the whisky without blunting that Caol Ila character we have come to either love or (for some of you) despise.

Olives, seaweed, fire smoke, salt and pepper notes are wrapped up nicely in a malty/caramel blanket.

Peppery, smoky finish that lingers on like the embers of an all-night bonfire.

Caol Ila enthusiasts will be familiar with the tarry rope, seaweed, brine, and white pepper.

All this is underpinned nicely by soft, sweeter notes of dark chocolate and vanilla nut truffle.

Light to medium in body (and quite pale in color), but quite invigorating.

A flirtatious vanilla sweetness at the front of the palate quickly evolves into spicy, peppery, grassy notes.

The whisky evolves further, expressing notes of smoke, tar, chewy seaweed, brine, feint green tea and olives.

A persistent, if delicate, honey sweetness hangs on throughout to offer some gentility.

An interesting contrast to the Signatory bottling reviewed above.

While expressing a similar fundamental flavor profile, this one is a more polished affair and not as daring.

It is fuller in body, nicely rounded, and expresses a sweeter foundation (less honey, more toffee and caramel).

Sweet, viscous, and weighty; much more so than its sister whisky (reviewed above) that was finished in Madeira casks.

But the same Caol Ila DNA is here — tar, olive brine, pepper — along with fleshy red fruit and chocolate.

This 1992 vintage from Clynelish distillery is part of Diageo’s Distillers Edition range of ‘finished’ single malts, and it underwent a secondary period of maturation in oloroso seco casks prior to bottling.

Sweet sherry, honey, and oranges on the nose, with a gentle note of rum and cloves.

The palate initially offers vibrant sherry, sultana, and hazelnuts, with developing cloves, angelica, and spices.

The finish is medium in length, with a mild note of enduring ginger.

A single malt whose waxy character — and it does smell of snuffed candles — is highly prized by blenders.

This is a palate whisky, the nose almost shy and muted: glints of citrus and jellied fruits, notes of ozone/spiciness and stem ginger.

It’s on the tongue that it comes into its own: clinging, strangely savory, lightly sweet, juicily fruity.

Lively aroma of honey-drenched fruit (pineapple, red currant, citrus) with a rich malty foundation.

Medium in body, but thick, almost mouth-coating in texture (a classic Dallas Dhu signature).

Clean flavors on the palate-honey, interwoven fruit, vanilla, with a dry "polished oak" finish.

The Spey Dram is made up of 36 percent whisky matured in ex-oloroso casks and 64 percent from American oak.

The nose offers fresh oranges, brittle toffee, cream, and ginger.

The nutty palate reveals fresh fruits, and is significantly spicier than the other Rivers expressions, with ginger and even chili notes.

The finish is long and notably spicy, with less chocolate than in the three other Rivers variants, ending with a touch of treacle.

This 1980 expression of The Dalmore Constellation has been solely matured in a Gonzales Byass Apostoles oloroso sherry butt.

The resultant whisky is sweet on the nose, with dates, figs, milk chocolate-covered caramel, and finally a suggestion of eucalyptus.

Briefly fruity on the palate, becoming bitter, with dark coffee notes.

Distilled on June 20, 1999 and bottled in November 2013, this expression from the Perthshire distillery of Edradour was matured for 14 years in a sherry butt.

The nose is notably sweet, with jammy aromas —strawberry and raspberry— while hazelnuts and walnuts lurk in the background.

The same fruit and nut notes from the nose carry over, along with sultanas, candied peel, Jaffa orange, and spicy leather.

After eight no-age-statement releases of Edradour’s heavily-peated Ballechin, the brand finally comes of age as a core product.

It is bottled at 10 years of age after maturing in a combination of bourbon barrels and oloroso sherry casks.

Earthy peat and fragrant spices on the nose, old leather, and faint toffee.

The palate initially offers very fruity peat, then newer leather, aniseed, and plain chocolate, with lingering fruity peatiness.

More plain chocolate and ginger in the smoky, medium-length finish.

This expression was released to celebrate the Scottish feature film “Fairy Flag,” and after maturing for 8 years in bourbon barrels, the whisky then spent 7 years aging in oloroso sherry casks.

Initially meaty with rich sherry, raisins, and cocoa powder, then increasing vanilla notes, plus warm leather and wood polish.

Sweet and very spicy on the palate, with caramel, chili, and cinnamon.

This expression of Edradour was distilled in April 2006 and was the fifth batch to be matured in Barolo wine hogsheads.

Fruity farmyard aromas, spice, then developing heather honey, soft oak, and caramel.

Earthy fruit notes on the palate, with walnuts, malt, and pepper.

Mildly mouth-drying in the medium-length finish, with aniseed and black pepper.

Style: Speyside single malt scotch Color: Deep gold Aroma: Mature.

Palate: Lovely balance and restrained woodiness for such an old whisky-the wood really doesn’t emerge until the end.

Citrus and coconut up front wrapped in a blanket of malt, becoming dry and spicy, but not excessively so.

Thicker and fruitier than the entry level 10 year old, with greater mouthfeel and a drier finish.

Orchard fruit (especially pear), kiwi, lime, and creamy vanilla, with suggestions of toasted coconut, hay, and marshmallow.

A bit more involved than the 10 year old, but still with the same DNA.

Glenisla was an experiment by the parent company-who only owned Speyside distilleries-to produce a smoky, "Islay-style" whisky at Glen Keith.

It is quite smoky, but without the coastal characteristics (brine, seaweed).

Instead, it displays notes of ripe barley, ginger, lemon peel, and licorice stick along with all that peat smoke.

A rather straight-forward, uncomplicated, yet very pleasant smoky whisky.

The finish is medium in length and spicy, with a hint of licorice.

Quite full-bodied, with a palate of mixed nuts and peaches in brandy.

Higher in strength than the standard Glen Scotia 10 year old, this heavily peated expression is part of the distillery’s Legends of Scotia series, and celebrates Campbeltown's historic Picture House.

Voluptuous in the mouth, and fruity, then sweet spice and drier peat notes develop.

It was distilled in December 1996 and bottled as a 20 year old in April 2016.

Coconut ice and vanilla fudge on the very sweet, confectionery-led nose, with a suggestion of salt in the background.

Full and supple on the palate, with a big hit of ripe apples, then cinnamon and nutmeg.

Nice malty foundation and soothingly creamy, with sweet notes (sticky toffee pudding, vanilla cream, caramel custard) integrating well with dry oak spice and fruit (peaches, blueberry, and currants).l Very easy-going and friendly.

When I toured Glenfarclas in May 2008, George Grant told me that, while it is usually not their policy to stray from aging their whisky in sherry and bourbon oak casks, they have done some experimenting.

One of these experiments, aged entirely in a port cask, has finally been bottled.

The nice thing about Glenfarclas is that it is a rich spirit and can stand up to a good dose of port wine (or sherry for that matter).

The port notes are lush, with ripe fruit (plum, red grape skin, caramelized apricot, prune) and dates complementing the whisky’s malty, maple syrup foundation.

The 27 years also impart a good dose of polished oak for balance.

Not as complex as other Glenfarclas whiskies of this age, but this is certainly a solid, enjoyable change of pace for Glenfarclas.

Gentle malty notes come through initially, accompanied by apple core and classic ‘Farclas weight.

In time there’s some orange marmalade, and this bittersweet element helps to add another layer of complexity.

Even neat it isn’t too hot, showing heft rather than bludgeoning power.

This creaminess comes through in its flavors too, binding to notes of vanilla, malt, shortbread, and delicate honey.

Floral notes, citrus, red currants, and a wisp of peat provide contrast.

An enjoyable, nicely polished dram from a distillery whose whisky is underappreciated-especially the older expressions.

The latest release from Glen Garioch is a limited edition 1994 vintage, produced when the distillery still boasted working floor maltings, and is therefore more peaty than spirit subsequently distilled.

Freshly-opened cigarette packets, and, in time, brown paper and vinegar

Quite dry and austere on the palate, with stem ginger and subtle smoke.

Persistently spicy in the medium-length finish, with an elusive late flurry of smoky, chocolate caramel.

The first Glen Garioch vintage to be exclusive to Travel Retail outlets and also the only one so far to post-date the closure of  their on-site floor maltings.

This leads to a less peaty note in the spirit than in other vintages.

Sweet malt, heather honey, vanilla, restrained cinnamon, nutmeg, and ginger on the palate.

offers a nose of fresh peaches and vanilla, followed by a sprinkling of chili powder, and even a suggestion of boiled ham.

Voluptuous in the mouth, with summer fruits, toffee apples, and a significant amount of ginger.

The Aberdeenshire distillery of Glen Garioch has released its first ever virgin oak-matured expression, which has employed heavily charred American oak barrels.

According to master blender Rachel Barrie, “Glen Garioch’s intense flavor means it holds up well in a new fill cask.”

Ripe peaches on the nose, spicy oak, vanilla, and more soft, floral notes in time.

Malt, milk chocolate, nectarines, nougat, and mild cloves on the palate, while the finish is medium in length, with ginger and lively oak.

Hard apple cider leads the nose and is backed by honeyed malt and cinnamon-baked pear.

The entry is lush caramel apple, but quickly transitions as the sheer power and spice of the mid-palate comes crashing in with oak, ginger, and pine.

This is the kind of big, bold, dry whisky that American whiskey drinkers might enjoy.

The entry level, no age statement expression of Glen Garioch, offered at an unusually high ABV for a single malt in this price range.

  Grapefruit , lively spice, vanilla, malt, and black pepper on the nose.

Milk chocolate, chili, cooking apples, and something slightly savory on the palate.

Citrus fruits and lots of spice in the relatively lengthy finish.

Torfa is apparently Old Norse for “turf” or “peat,” and this no age statement Glenglassaugh was made using malt peated to around 20 ppm phenols.

Heathery peatiness on the early nose, with dried fruits, malt, and cream soda.

Sweet and lively on the palate, after an initial flavor of coal soot, with ripe peaches, chili, and ginger, backed by floral peat and a hint of ozone.

On the palate, this whisky starts out clean and sweet, with notes of vanilla and honey.

It then turns dry with spicy, herbal, soft fruity notes, finishing on the dry side.

Glengoyne’s entry-level 10 year old is the most readily available of their malts, and is made using entirely unpeated malt.

The producers claim this helps to preserve “the essence of its flavor.”

Fresh and well-rounded on the nose, with medium sweet aromas suggesting malt, oak, and a hint of sherry.

Smooth and delicate on the palate, it is slightly oaky, with a suggestion of cooking apples.

The finish is pleasingly long, with buttery, vanilla notes, slowly drying.

Named in honor of the copper teapot from which distillery workers were ‘drammed’ until the 1970s, this distillery-exclusive bottling has been matured in first-fill oloroso sherry casks for an unspecified period.

The nose is fruity and fragrant, with profound spicy sherry notes.

Mouth-coating, with lots more sherry, plus prunes, drinking chocolate, and a little oak.

Lingering in the finish, with drying sherry, light spice, and dark chocolate.

Bottled in 2014, this expression of Glenkinchie was distilled in 2000 and finished in amontillado sherry casks.

The amontillado gives a more rounded feel and greater profundity to the single malt.

Peaches, apricots, almonds, and soft ginger on the nose, Smooth and balanced on the palate, gently spiced and nutty, with cherries, caramel, discreet sherry, and vanilla.

The medium-length finish features vanilla and lingering, spicy Jaffa oranges, drying slowly to oak.

This is from a first fill American oak hoggie, and the extra time in cask has given it a classic mature Glenlivet character: a rich, complex mix of cooked apple, pine, and citrus, cut with rose petal.

The scented notes have been retained (especially on the finish), but have deepened into sweet spice.

As with the ‘Fiddich (reviewed in this issue), here’s a malt where an improved wood policy has brought a dram to life and added complexity.

The Glenlivet has always been about lightness, but the trick is to have sufficient solid base to allow its flower to blossom, so as well as lily, orchid, and pineapple, there’s a thick creaminess that gently beds all of these flighty flavors down.

With water, there’s mandarin and rose petal, and a sneeze of white pepper.

A very fragrant, fruity whisky (orange, tangerine, plum, nectarine) with interwoven notes of honeyed malt, toasted oak, vanilla, and subtle anise.

I love the creamy, mouth-coating texture of this whisky and its soothing finish.

All the vintages of Glenrothes that have been released over the years are worthy of your hard-earned money, and this one is no exception.

There's not as much depth as some of the older, more mature expressions, but the lively youthfulness of this whisky makes up for it.

This 1984 Vintage is similar in profile to its older 1972 Vintage sibling (reviewed above), except that the 1972 Vintage expresses greater depth and has more oak to balance the sweetness (the sherry notes get a bit sappy in this 1984 expression).

The 1972 Vintage also evolves more on the palate, and it is more intriguing.

But don't let this keep you from trying this 1984 Vintage expression.

It is still a very enjoyable whisky (and more economically priced).

One thing I enjoy about these vintage releases are the differences in personality from one vintage to the next.

This 1998 vintage follows shortly after the 1994, and while that one was elegant and bright in personality, this 1998 is more viscous and heavier in weight.

It shows bright fruit (lemon, caramelized pineapple, tangerine), honeyed vanilla, and marzipan with a peppering of cinnamon and ginger.

The 1998 is not nearly as post-prandial as, say, the 1972 vintage, but it has more weight than the 1994 vintage.

Still, if I had to choose between the 1994 and 1998, my nod goes to the 1994 for its elegance and drinkability.

The cask influence is to the fore, mixing rum and raisin with a slight yeasty/dough-like edge that sits alongside caramelized fruits.

In time, there’s sweet draff, malt loaf (with butter), and the smell of old cupboards.

Medium-bodied with a light savory note in the middle that then drifts toward Brazil nut, and Assam tea.

This 10 year old expression from the Perthshire distillery of Glenturret has replaced the 12 year old.

Glenturret is at the heart of The Famous Grouse blend, and the distillery was re-branded as ‘The Famous Grouse Experience’ in 2002.

Nutty and slightly oily on the nose, with barley and citrus fruits.

Sweet and honeyed on the full, fruity palate, with a balancing note of oak.

Distilled in September 1994 and bottled at 18 years of age as part of Douglas Laing’s Old Malt Cask series, this Perthshire single malt displays a nose of malt loaf, tinned prunes, white pepper, and a suggestion of soy sauce on the nose.

Peppery on the palate, with citrus fruit, gunpowder tea, medium sherry, and cocoa powder.

The powdery cocoa notes persist in the long, spicy, discreetly oaky finish.

With only a 10 year old house bottling of Glenturret available, brand owners the Edrington Group have collaborated with independent bottler Hunter Laing to produce this ‘semi-official’ 26 year old expression, matured entirely in refill bourbon casks.

Full-bodied, waxy and chewy on the palate, with vanilla, ginger, cherry liqueur chocolates, and dark spices.

Layers of lush fruit (red raspberry, strawberry, currant, rhubarb, and ripe peach) with underlying toffee and pot still rum adding body and texture.

Peat and brine peek through intermittently, particularly on the finish.

The whisky is heavy on the fruit, but it is clean and not cloying.

Unlike ‘house’ bottlings of Highland Park, all of which are aged in sherry casks, this expression in Douglas Laing’s Old Malt Cask series has been matured in former bourbon wood.

Sweet and fruity on the nose, with nougat and peanut butter, plus a slightly herbal note, and finally discreet, sweet peat smoke.

Smokiness turns to ash in the finish, with citrus fruit and caramel.

One of a seemingly never-ending stream of Imperials from Duncan Taylor, all of which show remarkable consistency and are rarely over-wooded, thereby allowing the distillery character to shine.

Here are echoes of Loire Sauvignon Blanc — nettles, gooseberry, cut grass, fennel tops, and fresh herbs — with a hint of Imperial’s giveaway American cream soda softness.

The name of this limited-edition bottling translates as ‘the lands around the rowan,’ and the component whisky has been matured in three, fresh-run American white oak hogsheads.

Tinned peaches, a hint of smoke, and developing cream soda on the nose.

The palate is full and fruity, with Brazil nuts, drying quite rapidly, with coriander notes.

Exclusive to the Travel Retail arena, Jura Turas-Mara takes its name from the Gaelic for “long journey.”

It has been matured in an array of casks sourced from America, Spain, France, and Portugal.

Initially, green apples on the nose, then sweet fruit notes—jelly babies—plus coconut and fudge.

The finish dries, with aniseed balls, becoming slightly powdery.

This Jura expression was distilled in 1984 and matured in bourbon casks for 22 years before a further 6 years in Gonzalez Byass Matusalem sherry butts and 2 years in Amoroso and Apostoles oloroso sherry casks.

The nose opens with beef gravy, soon followed by prunes, cherries, dark chocolate, and PX sherry.

Full-bodied, rich and sweet on the palate, with lively spices, and more cherries, and chocolate.

Brought back as an annual limited edition to satisfy the cravings of those who like their peat full-on and never understood why Lagavulin moved to 16 years of age, this is the Kildalton coast single malt at its most boisterous.

Aromatically, it blazes a seaweed-strewn, zigzag pathway between sea, shore, and land: bog myrtle and samphire, beach bonfire, sea spray, and melon before, with much-needed water, there’s slow-burning Latakia pipe tobacco and Lapsang Souchong tea.

This is usually a bracing expression of Lagavulin and this year’s release doesn’t disappoint—smoldering peat, ozone freshness, but with greater sweetness than in 2011, though water shows how it is still just a little gawky.

The palate is, yes, smoky, but there’s also light cereal, praline, violets, and seashore aromas aplenty.

This is a venerable Lagavulin which immediately shows its age with a nose that mixes the savory (hoisin sauce) with the mature notes of dunnage warehouse, sandalwood, and a minty lift.

In time, there’s bog myrtle, old attics, rain-moistened wool, and a smokiness akin to a dead briar pipe.

Slightly dull to start, it perks up in the mid-palate with lanolin and black olive brine, and a Darjeeling-like grippiness.

Hard not to compare this to the 12 year old, as they are of similar strength and character.

This is more about the peat bank rather than the shore, more eucalyptus than kelp.

This pungent, earthy note is retained with water, alongside some brine.

The palate is like carrageen moss pudding, with a touch of nutmeg at the end.

Plenty there, but it all moves very quickly when I want it to linger.

A very laid-back start with the sweetness of the sherry cask bringing a fat, figgy, dried fruit aroma which initially suppresses the peat, only allowing a little pipe smoke and smoked meat to emerge.

With water, there’s balsam, tar, dried seaweed, and fabric Band-Aid.

This is repeated on the tongue, with dark fruits suddenly changing to spent kiln and bonfire ashes, but there needs to be more cohesion between the elements.

As pale as you'd expect, this year’s Special Release ‘limited’ bottling has a sweet, bready softness to it making it less angular than previous expressions.

The smoke comes across very gently, allowing the sweet grassiness of the spirit the upper hand until water is added.

The palate stirs in some emulsion paint, a pleasing lift of sulfur and anise, and gradually deepens.

This is the fourteenth 12 year old Lagavulin bottling in the series and was aged in refill American oak hogsheads.

Vanilla and wood smoke on the early nose, then black pepper, lemon, marine aromas, and scented notes, with a hint of peaty yeast.

Big, sweet, and direct on the smooth palate, with milk chocolate and black pepper, while the smoke keeps building.

A nicely balanced Laphroaig, with a soothing malty sweetness layered in between the smoke, peat, tarry rope, and iodine.

Underlying notes of vanilla bean, caramel custard, grist, anise, coconut, blueberry, and a dusting of cocoa add subtle complexity.

Brought back like Frank Sinatra for last year’s 200th anniversary celebrations, here’s Laphroaig in gentle Islay sunset mode, all soft fruits and oils.

There’s typical marine-like smokiness of course—particularly on the palate.

I’d go neat with this to observe what is rather excellent balance.

Distilled in May 1993, this bottling is of the Ledaig heavily-peated variant of Tobermory single malt.

Aged for 19 years, it was ‘finished’ for 40 months in wine casks from the St-Joseph AOC in northern Rhône.

Pickled beetroot, emerging caramel, and distant log-fire embers on the nose.

Voluptuous and fruity, notably spicy—pepper and ginger—plus mulled wine notes.

This 18 year old variant of Ledaig from Tobermory distillery on Mull was released in spring 2015 and is finished in oloroso sherry casks.

Old warm leather predominates on the early nose, with salt, pencil shavings, a suggestion of asphalt, and dried fruit.

Big fruit and spicy peat notes on the robust palate, which features sherry and a sprinkling of brine.

Drying slowly, with licorice and marginally tannic oak behind persistent smoke.

The nose is slightly musty, even bitter, with sawdust and apple peel.

The palate is sweet, with a suggestion of sherbet ‘fizz,’ elusive peatiness, and fruit spice, plus vanilla, walnuts, and ultimately, slightly grippy oak.

Online retailer TheWhiskyBarrel.com has released 60 bottles of 21 year old single malt from the now-lost Lowland distillery of Littlemill.

Maturation has taken place in a sherry hogshead and cask #35 yielded 306 bottles, with the balance being held by whiskybroker.co.uk.

The nose is rich and thick, with old sherry, caramel, and cinnamon, while the full palate boasts aniseed, pipe tobacco, and an effervescence that is unusual in a whisky of this age.

The first Lowland single malt bottling to be made available in the U.S. by the Creative Whisky Co., this 24 year old cask strength, single cask bottling from the now-demolished Lowland distillery of Littlemill offers toffee, fresh pineapple, and sultanas on the pleasing nose.

Voluptuous in the mouth; mellow, with vanilla, cocoa powder, and soft spice notes.

This is a distillery bottling from the now-demolished Lowland plant of Littlemill, near Glasgow, and the release consists of 4,550 bottles.

Fresh pineapple and mango on the nose, inflated balloons, a hint of vanilla, and cocoa powder.

Medium-bodied, with focused tropical fruits, ginger, and caramel.

Lengthy in the finish, with gentle spice and milk chocolate-coated toffee.

This bottling of 1990 whisky from the demolished Littlemill Distillery was initially matured in ten American and European oak casks before being married and finished in first-fill oloroso sherry casks.

Boiled fruit sweets, subtle vanilla, red apple peel, and cereal on the nose.

Intense fruitiness, then fruit spices, hazelnuts, and some oak notes.

The stocks of the “new era” Longrow keep getting older (and better).

A pleasingly sweet foundation of burnt caramel, vanilla fudge, and toffeed nuts is challenged by earthy peat, tar, damp barnyard, and brine.

A nice whisky with great potential, but still needs a few more years.

Longmorn’s signature is a thick mouth-coating, honeyed maltiness, which is almost chewy in texture.

While delicious in its teens, its personality lends itself to aging, because its maltiness provides a good counterpoint to the resinous dry oak notes which are usually imparted to older whiskies.

Notes of honey, vanilla malt, and subtle fruit dovetail nicely with the dry, resinous, polished leather-like contributions from 29 years in oak.

Walnut Aroma: Richly sherried and thick, with notes of nuts and toffee.

Dry, spicy, oak notes fight off all that sherry and add balance and complexity.

Palate: Creamy vanilla and a touch of honey up front, becoming gently fruity with a soft maltiness.

Clean, delicately complex finish of polished oak and soft floral notes.

Aromas reminiscent of a bouquet of flowers, honey, soft fruit, and vanilla.

Honey, flowery fruit gum drop flavors, eventually turning dry and gently spicy, with a polished oak finish.

Well rounded, with fresh vanilla, berries in cream, caramel custard, toasted oak, and gentle dried spice.

A very clean, mealy, and creamy nose with real sweetness and a belt of vanilla before things settle into the realm of cooked fruits enlivened by masses of peppermint.

In the mouth, that sweetness continues to alternate between a prickly feel and sweet fruit syrups, while Macallan’s oily earthiness anchors it both on the tongue and to the distillery.

Thick and creamy, with mouth-coating vanilla, ripe barley, toasted marshmallow, vanilla wafer, key lime pie, golden delicious apple, lemongrass, and hay.

The vanilla sweetness lingers to the finish, mixing with dried herbs and hay.

I was expecting more from a carefully chosen Mortlach, given its pedigree, but this is still nice.

Certainly not the best Mortlach I’ve tasted, but it’s a solid effort and at a good price for a 21 year old.

Nicely balanced — Lorne Mackillop’s hallmark — and somewhat reserved, too (for a Mortlach), with intriguing lime, kiwi, caramel, floral notes (on the nose), nutty toffee (especially on the palate), soaked barley, and charcoal, with a rather syrupy, mouth-clinging texture toward the finish.

This expression has been matured entirely in bourbon casks and offers a fresh nose of ozone and lemon, becoming quite fragrant in time.

More mouth-coating than might be expected, yet easy drinking, with milk chocolate, malt, tropical fruits, and an edge of sea salt.

Just 450 cases of this veteran expression from Old Pulteney have been released, offered in non-chill filtered format after maturation in a mixture of bourbon casks and Spanish oak sherry casks.

Light fruit notes on the nose, notably tangerines, plus vanilla, lemon, and sea salt.

Orchard fruits, spicy sherry, worn leather, and cocoa powder on the silky palate.

Underlying notes of cut grass and linseed oil add texture and intrigue.

Rosebank is a classic Lowlander and, given that the distillery closed in 1993, younger expressions will become more difficult to find (not to mention more expensive).

The Glasgow-based independent bottler Douglas Laing & Co. Ltd. has been responsible for quite a number of releases from the ‘lost’ Lowland distillery of Rosebank, and this one was distilled during January 1990 and bottled in April 2012.

The nose is pleasingly floral and fragrant, light and gently honeyed, with a suggestion of barley in the background.

The palate features spicy, sweet orange, herbs, and a slightly contrasting note of citrus fruit.

A pleasure to drink, just like the 12 year old version that preceded it.

A foundation of honeyed malt, with background vanilla, subtle cocoa, faint bourbon, salt, and diffuse spice on the palate.

However, a coastal freshness cuts through the viscosity, keeping the whisky lively.

Some of the freshness of the previous 12 year old distillery bottling is sacrificed in exchange for more depth and fullness.

A soft, easy-going whisky with a foundation of honeyed vanilla, caramel custard, and mouth-coating maltiness.

Floral and brine notes are sprinkled throughout, as are cocoa, white pepper, and subtle edible seaweed.

A whisky with a gentler personality when compared to most other island malts, making it a nice introduction to the style.

I would, however, like to see this whisky bottled at a higher strength and not chill-filtered.

I’d be more than willing to sacrifice some drinkability for greater intensity and more subtle nuances.

Still, it is an enjoyable whisky, and enthusiasts of its predecessor -- Scapa 14 -- should also like it, albeit at a higher retail price.

Exotic fruit (papaya, coconut, kiwi) with gentle sweet notes (vanilla, honey, pancake syrup, marshmallow), spiced with fresh, appetizing brine and anise.

The brine lingers on the finish, as do some molasses toffee notes.

Moderately rich and sweet on the nose and palate, but clean and not heavy.

Light toffee, nougat, Brazil nuts, vanilla fudge, and honey-laced citrus fruit and golden raisin.

There are still some casks of 1960s Springbank surfacing (even if most are from the independent bottlers).

Exotic notes of tropical fruit, citrus, vanilla, linseed, and honey combine with a gentle, fresh brine tang and some background dried spice.

The flavors are slightly muted, but this is not surprising given its age.

Named after a mythical hellhound that is said to stalk the area around Tomatin distillery, Cù Bòcan is lightly peated and matured in a combination of virgin oak, bourbon, and sherry casks.

Lemonade and coconut on the early nose, with developing almonds.

Rich, full mouthfeel, malt and honey, with the smoke more evident now, plus cinnamon and cloves.

Richer, more fragrant and profound sherry than is present in the Fino or Manazanilla expressions.

Full-bodied, with big, musty sherry notes and Seville oranges on the palate, plus lots of spice.

Cù Bòcan is the lightly-peated variant of Tomatin single malt, and while most Cù Bòcan is matured in a combination of sherry, bourbon, and virgin oak casks, this expression was exclusively aged in virgin oak.

Fragrant on the nose, with lemon, lanolin, vanilla, poached pears, and peppery rye notes.

Rich spice and vanilla on the palate, zesty and warming, with apple pie, and caramel.

The latest vintage expression of Tomatin’s peated Cù Bòcan was aged in a mix of bourbon and sherry casks.

Fishy smoke on the nose, with ripe red apples, toffee, milk chocolate, and malt.

White pepper, plain chocolate, and a lick of licorice in the relatively long and lively finish.

This whisky starts with the light and very drinkable bourbon oak-aged 1993 vintage from previous years and then is finished off in a sherry cask.

The sherry is fresh and vibrant, and adds lush fruit, light dates, and nutty undertone to Tullibardine’s classic vanilla, honeyed malt, and grassy notes.

Similar in personality to its younger standard 1993 and 1992 vintages -- soft and mellow, with fresh barley, vanilla cream puff, cut grass and hay, cookie dough, and a dusting of pencil shavings.

The extra aging shows on the whisky’s dried spice and polished oak finish.

More sophisticated than its younger siblings, although the younger vintages are more drinkable.

Tullibardine Aged Oak Edition carries no age statement, though it contains a blend of whisky more than 15 years old and spirit produced since the distillery reopened in 2003.

The nose exhibits barley, citrus fruits, pear drops, crystallized ginger, marzipan, and cocoa.

Oily in the mouth and slightly earthy, with brazil nuts and developing vanilla fudge and lemon on the palate.

The oldest expression in the Tullibardine lineup provides malt, cedar, stewed apples, and wood shavings on the nose.

Dries quite steadily, with oak lurking behind ripe bananas in the lengthy finish.

Another very accomplished old Tullibardine, but the notably pleasing palate of the 20 year old just gives that bottling the edge.

Distilled in 2004, The Murray was matured in first-fill bourbon barrels and is offered at cask strength, non-chill filtered.

The nose opens with confident, sweet fruit notes—overripe bananas and peach slices—with background milky coffee.

Rich and sweet on the palate, developing vanilla spices, chewy tropical fruits.

This vintage edition of Oban was distilled in 1999 and finished in montilla fino sherry casks, which lend a greater richness and complexity to the Oban house style without detracting from its essential characteristics.

Silky on the palate, with Seville oranges, ginger nuts, and cloves, plus a faint suggestion of brine.

Persistent orange and dry spice notes in the oaky, medium-length finish.

Complementary notes of marshmallow, crème brulee, honey, and pineapple.

Surprisingly vibrant for a 43 year old whisky and, while expressing sweeter notes, not at all cloying (the grain whisky aspects actually help here).

Consists of two whiskies: half 10 year old Clynelish (finished in Chateau Lafite casks) and half 10 year old Ben Nevis (finished in Grenache Blanc casks).

The classic chewy, nutty toffee notes of Ben Nevis are prominent throughout, while Clynelish’s spicy, briny notes become more prominent mid-palate, peaking on the finish.

The two work well together, with the brine and spice cutting through the thick toffee.

Bright, berried fruit (from the finishing) adds an additional dimension prominently throughout.

Some oak resin kicks in on the finish to keep the whisky from becoming too sappy sweet.

This “double malt” contains 70% 12 year old Dufftown (finished in a Zinfandel cask) and 30% 15 year old Mortlach (finished in a Callejo cask).

This is a rich, fruity, gripping, broad-shouldered Speyside whisky.

Richly sherried, with thick, layered sweetness as a foundation (honey, caramel, light toffee), along with ripe bramble, golden raisin, and pit fruit.

Produced at Tullibardine distillery in 1989, this ex-bourbon hogshead has yielded 299 bottles.

The expression lives up to its name with rum and raisin ice cream on the nose; floral, with glacé cherries, dried apricots, and pistachio nuts.

More nuts and lots of spice on the palate, plus dark chocolate, dates, and prunes.

One of the latest single cask bottlings (354 bottles) from Wemyss Malts specifically for the U.S., “A Day at the Coast” was sourced from the East Sutherland distillery of Clynelish.

Ozone, warm sand, and wild grasses on the nose, plus a hint of honey, grated ginger, and a freshly-opened box of milk chocolates.

The viscous palate features rock salt, white pepper, coconut, green apples, and a squeeze of lemon.

This single cask variant of Glen Scotia has been matured in a sherry butt for 21 years, and the cask yielded 833 bottles.

Fruity on the nose, with sultanas, cherries, marzipan, and milk chocolate.

The palate showcases overripe oranges, sherry, and plain chocolate, with a tang of brine.

One of the latest batch of single cask bottlings from Wemyss Malts is a 15 year old Clynelish, named ‘Fresh Fruit Sorbet.’

Tinned pears, new-mown hay, honey, and lemon sherbet on the nose, with a hint of machine oil.

The palate is smooth and fruity, with pears, figs, and a suggestion of black pepper.

The dominant fruitiness continues through the sugary finish, with a background prickle of spice.

One of four Spring 2013 single cask releases from Wemyss Malts, Fruit Bonbons was distilled at Glen Garioch in 1989 and bottled during 2012.

Homemade lemonade and a dash of table salt on the early nose, then heather, ginger, and finally the sweetness of icing sugar and fudge.

Apples coated in cinnamon, nutmeg, caramel, and dark treacle on the palate.

One of the batches of spring 2013 single cask releases from the prolific Wemyss Malts, Candied Fruit is a 15 year old Auchentoshan, and 294 bottles are available.

An aroma of sweet shops, vanilla, and white pepper on the nose, becoming maltier, with dates, sultanas, figs.

Apples and pears on the light-ish palate, with coconut and ginger.

This 20 year old single cask release from the Perthshire distillery of Aberfeldy runs to 242 bottles, matured in a hogshead.

Soft fruits, notably peaches, gingery oak, and more icing sugar on the palate.

Milky coffee, caramel, and eucalyptus in the slightly oaky, medium-length finish.

This 25 year old single cask bottling of Glen Garioch from Wemyss was one of a dozen released in late 2014.

The hogshead in which maturation took place yielded 357 bottles.

The nose gives apple, banana, vanilla fudge, nutmeg, and soft spices.

Creamy and nutty on the palate, with a squeeze of lemon, soft toffee, and milk chocolate.

The finish is medium in length, spicy and nutty, with cocoa powder and just a suggestion of smoke.

This is the Lowlander among Wemyss Malts’ dozen single cask releases for the fall of 2014.

Maturation took place in a bourbon barrel, which yielded 295 bottles.

Tinned peaches in syrup, caramel, mild vanilla, and damp tweed on the nose.

Medium-bodied and intensely fruity on the palate, with apricots, raspberries, and ginger.

Following on from another 1999 single cask Aberfeldy in the previous batch of Wemyss Malts’ releases, we have Toffee Tuile, matured in a hogshead.

The nose is sweet and approachable, with tinned fruit cocktail, vanilla, malt, and fresh ginger.

Tropical fruit, brittle toffee, hazelnuts, a hint of caramel, and more ginger on the nose.

Wemyss has picked up where The Easy Drinking Whisky Company left off a few years back and are selling their mix of malt whiskies under a descriptive flavor name.

It is a delightfully soft, fruity, and dessert-like whisky with, yes, lashings of honeyed malt to make it a soft, succulent treat of a whisky.

Having previously appeared in 8 and 12 year old versions, Wemyss dropped the age statement from their easygoing honey-drenched dram.

Fortunately, the nose of light honey, lavender, heather, and spring blossoms confirms that it’s business as usual.

Melon, mango, passion fruit, and a deft touch of spice give this a sweet, fruity profile.

Still in the same vein as its 17 year old sibling reviewed above, but it’s softer, mellower, with more wood impact (especially on the nose and back end of the palate) and tea leaves.

rather than honey, and more berried fruit along with the citrus, which struggles to reveal itself.

But if you have to pick between the two expressions, go for the 17 year old and pocket the change with a smile on your face.

This young distillery’s fourth release, aged entirely in bourbon barrels.

The two previous releases that I tasted and reviewed (the inaugural release and the Autumn 2009 release) were finished in sherry casks.

I think it softened the whisky, added a new dimension, and perhaps even masked some of the youth.

Still, this is a very nice effort: brisk, vibrant, and bracing, with plenty of raw peat smoke and tar, along with pear, citrus, vanilla, licorice root, bourbon barrel char, clove, bitter chocolate, and suggestions of olive brine and high-end mescal.

The annual (albeit limited) Loch Gorm release allows you to chart Kilchoman’s development in sherry casks.

Here, first-fill and refill sherry casks (oloroso to be precise) were used.

The latter seem to have more of a say, as the distillery character is more apparent: sweet fruit, marine smoke, and clementine, before the golden raisin from the cask develops.

This 30 year old bottling from Teaninich was distilled in December 1982 and matured in a refill butt.

The nose is characterized by lemon curd, flat Coca-Cola, and spicy malt.

The palate is smooth, sweet and fruity, with vanilla and stem ginger.

Autumn berries and more ginger figure in the lengthy, slightly charred finish.

This is finished for 8 months in tawny port pipes and is quite restrained on the early nose, opening up to reveal rose petals, milk chocolate, and double cream.

Pale, with fresh perfumed/fragrant estery notes that touch on flower blossom, almond icing on a custard cake, and even a little candy floss.

All very aromatically intense, with quite a hot focus on the tongue.

With water you keep the concentration and add in lemon, jellied fruits, and light, dusty spiciness.

Distilled in 1990, this rare expression was matured in refill American oak hogsheads.

Ultimately, faintly floral notes, with pear drops, vanilla, and linseed.

Very smooth on the palate, with soft fruity malt, vanilla, peach, and dark berries.

This veteran Lowland Inverleven — distilled within the now decommissioned Dumbarton grain distillery complex — is a recent addition to Chivas Brothers’ Cask Strength Edition series, and is exclusively available at distillery visitor centers and from www.maltwhiskydistilleries.com.

The nose is creamy, gentle, and sweet, with vanilla, rum raisin ice cream, and a subtle, contrasting peppery note.

Mouth-coating, with citrus fruits and slowly developing dark chocolate, which lingers through the long and gingery finish.

Okay, how many of you have walked past this one thinking the price is just too crazily low for the liquid to be any good?

How many have started your whisky life with this and then set it aside?

Speyburn, one of the forgotten distilleries of Rothes, is a charmer.

Sweet and fragrant with notes of blossom and a little red fruit on the nose, the palate shows ginger, cream, and rhubarb.

With the majority of the blend coming from older single malts, this forms a counterpoint to I and II (see below).

Toasted spices, fennel, black peppercorns, cocoa, malt loaf, split orange peels, and salted caramel invade the nose.

Beneath, look for dried fruits, macchiato, peanut shells, and some tannic bitterness as the older malts show their wares.

That Boutique-y Whisky Company is an independent bottler noted for quirky and very contemporary label design.

Initially, overripe pineapples and dry hay on the oily nose, cut by a sprinkling of salt.

The palate is very fruity; more pineapple, plus peach, developing peat, plenty of spice, and more tobacco.

Ebony colored whisky with dark aromas of dense fruitcake, fresh fig, Medjool dates, sultana, and Christmas spices of nutmeg, clove, and cinnamon, though a struck-match note lurks within.

The treacle-thick palate has Coca-Cola, clove, aniseed, eucalyptus, sultanas, leather, blackcurrant, black cherry, dried fig, and raisin.

The currant-bun finish is tannic and woody; tastebuds flinch and recoil.

Have you ever noticed how some distilleries never appear under independent labels?

They say they put a teaspoon of whisky from another distillery in each barrel; no longer a single malt.

So here is a blended malt with 99.99 percent of the whisky from one distillery.

This has no peat and is sweet, honeyed, and rich, with vanilla, banana, lime sherbet, and tropical fruits.

Nearly a quarter of a century since Cambus Distillery closed, select casks are still being bottled by the independents.

Grapefruit peel, fruit teas, lemon zest, mixed spice, cardamom, and wild garlic make for an intriguing nose.

A sweet taste of sugared almonds, lemon bonbons, strands of candied peel, bananas, and vanilla, before the spices stomp all over the sweetness.

below).

Instead the flavors are softer and built around mocha, smooth creamy toffee, and some soft fruit, including a touch of overripe banana and melon notes.

The savoriness this time comes from a touch of pepper rather than salt.

nuances just beneath the surface.

This evolves from a floral and welcoming nose, through a saline note and on to pepper and a Highland earthiness, but wrapped up in a rich, honeyed body.

This blend delivers just enough peat turf to live up to the name, without alienating the peat phobics.

A pleasant nose of chocolate hazelnut, pecan nut, dried tropical fruits, and gentle wood and peat smoke.

  Orange, toffee, banoffee pie, Kola Kubes, and a little spiciness.

A short finish with a spicy flare and a few lingering smoky embers.

This Dalmore single cask variant was distilled in October 1996 and filled into a refill hogshead, which yielded 139 bottles in January 2014.

Freshly-mown hay, then marzipan and nectarines on the well-spiced nose.

The palate features Terry’s chocolate orange, vanilla, and nutmeg.

Citrus fruits and malt in the finish, with hazelnuts and a hint of oak.

Dailuaine is a fascinating distillery and this has a fascinating nose, as it shows a heavy sulfury new make entering maturity and starting to pick up extra weight from the cask.

There’s a glimpse of sweetness, a little fruit, but the dominant character is a savory meatiness (beef stock cubes).

The palate shows dried mint and masses of this meaty/sweet interplay.

Most of Auchroisk's malt goes into Diageo’s J&B blended, so a single malt release is an uncommon treat.

Aged in refill sherry casks, this whisky has a nutty, roasted malt nose.

On the palate it’s soft and lush, with honeyed roasted malt, walnut, ginger, and salt.

A spicy mid-palate leads to a dry finish that abandons a lot of the flavors established.

A solid mix of flavors, but the finish shows why it's often used for blending.

A pale grain from the colossal Fife distillery, released at 18 years old as part of Signatory’s Vintage Single Grain Collection.

Vanilla icing, digestive biscuits, pumpernickel, toasted coconut flakes, crushed cumin seed, and a background note of fresh mint are apparent.

The vanilla and blossom honey flavors are in union with the buttery, lightweight texture, and there’s a pulsating spiciness that lives on in the finish.

Offered in the ‘Distillery Labels’ series by Gordon & MacPhail, this expression from Wick’s Pulteney distillery hearkens back to the era when Gordon & MacPhail was its principal bottler, and 8 its standard age.

Smooth and nutty on the palate, with smoky spice, a sprinkling of salt, and ripe pears.

The finish is medium in length, mildly peppered, nutty, and oaky.

Matured in refill bourbon barrels, this Tomatin is softly floral on the nose, with sweet fruit spices, pineapple, vanilla, and honey.

The palate is fresh and fruity, with cream, milk chocolate, and nutty spice.

Fruity to the end, notably ripe apples and red berries, plus more milk chocolate before slightly drying oak notes develop.

The nose is more reticent than that of its younger sibling, with less spice and succulent fruitiness.

The palate is silky, with walnuts and allspice, while fruit notes are provided by plums.

Following the overall theme here, the finish is also drier than that of the 16 year old variant, featuring a sprinkling of spicy cocoa powder.

The sixth incarnation of Master of Malt’s cult blend of closed distillery whiskies contains Port Ellen, Brora, Mosstowie, Glenisla, Imperial, Caperdonich, and Glen Mhor with grain whisky from Port Dundas.

Apples and sugar browning in a pan, smooth driftwood, and dairy fudge, but with the Glenisla it’s noticeably smokier than earlier batches.

Sweet blancmange initially, before it soars to a tangy, spicy peak; the peat smoke backed by white pepper, ground ginger, peanuts, and florentines.

Aultmore is normally light and estery, and this pale dram is true to this.

After a whiff of fresh turmeric, there’s an almost oily green note with William pear before acetone, and something akin to school Bunsen burners (a good smell) emerges.

The palate is more coherent than the nose; sweet, rounded, and more substantial that you expect, with tinned pears in custard.

Lively and charming; shows none of the firmness of youth suggested by the nose.

A clean if hot nose with carpenter’s workbench, Comice pear, and lots of oak.

Aultmore’s acidity comes through on the palate, with its zingy intensity cutting through the wood and achieving a certain balance.

Young certainly, but bottled at the right time given the intensity of the wood element.

Green grapes, fresh apple, caramel, wood spices, cinnamon, nutmeg, and digestive biscuits show the freshness of this quarter-century dram.

Before the alcohol grips, sweet corn flavors and acidic-citrus fruitiness present themselves (a North British characteristic).

A pleasurable, thick-textured taste of cookie dough, lime, lemon, orange Jell-o, and oak spices.

Water discharges the taste of artificial sweeteners, so buck up and take it as it comes.

This North British has been led astray; well, subjected to three months’ confinement in first-fill oloroso sherry wood.

There’s a savory nose of peppered filet, mustard seed, and tarragon.

The creamy texture consists of evaporated milk, strong caramel, dark toffee, and black currant granola, though that savory character persists.

Water pumps up the cream, raspberry, and cereal notes until it sees daylight, becoming almost a breakfast whisky.

Waxed lemon, salted butter pats, white peach, honey, and the wood smoke from green stems.

A sip brings Highland toffee, honey, chocolate fudge, rich tart fruits, with dried apple, raisin, mixed peel, and a late appearance of malt, pepper, and smoke.

Experimenting with water nudges peanut brittle, pralines, and fudge to the surface.

So much so that you don’t notice the smoke which is slowly building.

Everything is very restrained, some cold-smoked fish, mineral, and—in time—a hint of the mash tun.

That mineral note continues on the palate, which broadens into ginger nuts in the middle of the tongue.

The impact given by secondary maturation in small (octave) sherry casks is what sets this range apart.

Here, Glen Grant’s light fruits are given a darker twist, with some bodega notes, blackberry, and a surprising note of curry spices before milk chocolate develops; this is particularly apparent on the palate.

A beautiful, thick texture replete with ripe red fruits, cardamom, fennel, and star anise.

Caramels drift past on a river of spice, wreathed in a fine layer of smoke, then oak, mixed nuts, and cracker bread.

The fruity sweetness is momentary and fleeting, leaving the front of the mouth loaded with spice.

Ripening strawberries, cotton candy, and fudge on the nose, but with an undertow of devil-may-care spiciness.

Soft mandarin citrus, vanilla fudge, sponge cupcakes, and a decent wedge of malt form the core of the palate; the spice is disappointingly mild considering the potential of the first sniff.

Still, solid enough to make your world better at the end of a hard day.

Here we have the heavy, nutty character of the distillery given full expression.

The emphasis here is on a mix of nuts, cake mix, and dense fruits: even a little hint of cigarette tobacco.

When neat, the palate has real density that is enlivened by water, which brings out fresher—and decidedly more green—notes.

The blended malt in the series is drawn from select aged Highland single malt whiskies chosen by Stewart Laing.

A luxuriant nose of rich, runny caramels, deliciously malty, and balanced with notes of dried apple, mixed peel, and pecan shells layered over warm spice.

Smooth, with a light to medium body showing toffee apple, raisin, and caramel, tasting fatter with time and yielding pineapple notes.

As if making up for lost time, wee bottles of Kininvie are popping out every month.

This is a fine demonstration of the distillery style which sits—appropriately enough—between the lightness of Glenfiddich and the fruity sweetness of Balvenie.

Here, flowers are to the fore, along with creme anglaise, and a light herbal edge.

A perfumed finish akin to elderflower maintains the frothy floral aspect.

Also distilled in 2009, this is mid-gold in color and medium weight, with a mass of sage-like smoke.

More cask influence than 7.1, with smoked coconut, and again a mix of sweet fruits and lemon behind this smoky lead.

Oily and rich, but a little fragmented on the tongue; the elements are beginning to cohere to produce integrated complexity.

Octomore in mellow mood, with smoked chestnut and a little farmyardy Pinot note.

Overlook the fact that this bottle is saddled with one of the most impenetrable closures known to mankind.

Unperturbed, this blend flaunts its big toffee aromas, whole almond, and floral top notes.

With light fudge and gentle orange influences, it is smooth and rounded, top loaded with spice and hazelnut at the front of the mouth.

More grain character and roasted spices show through on the finish.

The nose yields mint toffees, cereal notes, butterscotch, and whole peppercorn.

Juicy orange, with elements of burnt orange, dark toffees, and a pleasant balance of sweetness form the palate, followed by a wave of peppery spices and late dashes of dates and sultana.

This light, Speyside-style blend has grassy notes, with crystalized lemon slices, Bramley apple peel, woodsmoke, and almonds.

Light and sweet on the tongue, it unpacks lemon peel, satsuma, juicy watermelon, pepper, and aniseed.

Grain whisky and herbal notes creep in late and permeate the finish.

citrus (bergamot and grapefruit) and just a hint of dark chocolate behind.

With
any richness cut with fresh acidity.

Released without any fanfare, here’s evidence that Cardhu’s
rebuilding its reputation nicely.

(This new expression sports a much larger tree image on the front label.)

While the first bottling used inner French oak staves to impart additional oak influence, this one uses French oak barrel heads.

This new bottling is also bolder, displaying more oak -- there are more dried spice notes and it’s more viscous and clinging on the palate.

Notes of sticky toffee, vanilla fudge, bramble, and red currant give way to oak resin, cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, and subtle lemongrass.

A tactile, somewhat resinous, polished leather finish wraps it up.

A nice whisky, but I really enjoy the subtler, more elegant nature of the original bottling better.

How does this long-established blend shape up on its own without a ginger or soda mixer?

Fresh apple juice, a twist of lemon, dried orange peel, peppercorn, cracker bread, and a vegetal spicy note.

It gets into its stride with delicious apple, gentle fudge, and good-tempered spices, with cracked black pepper and a little sourness to finish.

Mild, agreeably smooth, without any bombast or hullabaloo; it just blends in.

Fruitier, sweeter, and more straightforward than the new 16 year old.

Ripe tangerine, orchard fruit, and caramel apples, all on a bed of nutty toffee.

Underlying notes of cinnamon, nutmeg, and ginger, with a dusting of dark chocolate.

After the sweetness fades away, there’s lingering spice and oak resin on the finish.

A good alternative to Macallan 12 year old or Glenfarclas 12 year old.

Somehow this 12 year old—a mix of sherry and American oak—is overlooked by malt lovers heading straight to the mental world of a’Bunadh.

This is Aberlour at a crucial point in its growth: you’ve lost the maltiness of the 10 year old, but there’s none of the heavy toffee and licorice of a’Bunadh or older expressions.

Here it’s sweet fruits in charge: red apple, black currant, plum.

Very sweet, with thick hard toffee, stewing dates and figs, molasses, and rum raisin ice cream, before some dark chocolate, dried mint, and orange peel.

It ignites on the tongue with a burst of dried pepper flakes, beneath which are cocktail bitters: gentian calamus.

It begs for water, when out comes black currant jam (very Aberlour) and a little malt.

Now it’s calm and hugely drinkable, and therefore even more dangerous.

Aberfeldy distillery has added a 16 year old expression to its core range, positioned between the existing 12 and 21 year old variants.

This newcomer has been finished in oloroso sherry casks, and the result is a pleasing if undemanding dram with a fresh, sweet, sherried nose, featuring orange, honey, and ginger.

Smooth on the palate, with more oranges, marzipan, then milk chocolate and gentle spices.

Nutty spice, increasingly bitter orange, and dark chocolate in the finish.

This year’s Ardbeg Day bottling is named in tribute to World Cup host Brazil’s national colors: Auri (Gold) and Verdes (Green).

Very restrained to start: grassy, sweet with vanilla pod, shoreline, and smoke wrapped in a woolen blanket.

The palate shows more smoke, light chocolate, Ardbeg oiliness, and soot.

It’s fresh and charming, but ultimately is a quarterfinalist beaten on penalties.

This is the second batch of Arran 12 year old in cask strength format, and it contains a higher percentage of sherry cask-matured whisky than the first.

Fresh and sweet on the nose after an initial note of resin, with oats and hot butter.

Full-bodied, syrupy and sweet on the palate, with apricots, ripe bananas, nutmeg, and walnuts.

The finish majors in plain chocolate, maraschino cherries, and a suggestion of smoky sherry.

Arran first introduced its peated Machrie Moor variant some five years ago; since then it has become a firm favorite.

Late 2014 saw the appearance of the first cask strength edition of Machrie Moor, limited to 6,000 bottles.

Wood smoke, warm tar, and emerging new leather on the bold nose.

Sweet peat and spices on the palate, barbecue sauce, and black pepper.

Bottled in 2015, this expression from Arran distillery was matured in first-fill bourbon barrels.

Ripe apple and tinned peaches on the early nose, icing sugar, a hint of mint, and soft toffee.

Lively spices and pear drops on the palate, with vanilla and cocoa.

The finish is medium in length, with a twist of lemon and cocoa powder.

Similar to the Classic in its tropical fruit and honeyed vanilla, but with more depth, emerging nuts, and dried spice.

The 11 year old triple distilled Lowland single malt in this bottling has been matured entirely in French oak casks that previously contained Bordeaux wine, then bottled at cask strength.

The nose offers contrasting sweet and sour fruit notes, red grapes and gooseberries, damp newspaper, warm stone, and vanilla.

Mouth-coating, bittersweet on the palate, with molasses and — inevitably — red wine.

Another recent addition to Aberdeenshire bottler Duncan Taylor’s Dimensions range, launched late last year.

The nose is very fruity, with sliced peaches and apricots, plus a porridge-like background note.

Relatively full bodied and malty, with intense fruit notes, then dark spices appear.

The finish is medium in length, spicy with aniseed balls, then a lingering creaminess at the very end.

Morrison Bowmore distillers has recently released a virgin oak-matured expression of its Auchentoshan single malt, which has no age statement.

The North American oak casks have been charred prior to receiving this Lowland whisky as their first fillings.

The result is a nose of Madeira, cinnamon, vanilla, and white pepper.

Very spicy on the palate, with citrus fruits and plain chocolate.

Lingering in the finish, with cocoa powder, icing sugar; becoming slightly more bitter with time.

Firm spice notes and subtle brine (both of which are often found in Northern Highland malts) makes the whisky fresh and quite lively.

There’s a soothing, mouth-coating, toffee sweetness providing balance and depth.

This is the first distillery bottling of Balblair available here in the U.S. in a long time, and it is very welcomed.

The third and final release of the 1989 vintage of Northern Highland malt Balblair is on sale in Europe initially, with U.S. availability (at approximately $95) this fall.

Initially quite reticent on the nose, with a hint of potato chips, mild vanilla, lemon, and unripe bananas.

Full and rounded on the palate; nutty, with tropical fruits and lively spice.

Medium length in the finish, with apricots, instant coffee, and milky cocoa.

This 2002 expression of Balblair replaces the previous 2001 vintage as the ‘entry level’ bottling.

It is naturally colored and non-chill filtered, in line with the rest of the Balblair range, and has been matured in bourbon barrels.

Fizzy lemonade, banana skins, and violets on the nose, with soft caramel developing in time.

Fruit and nut milk chocolate on the palate, with ripe apples and vanilla.

Balblair’s 1996 vintage expression replaces the previous 1995 variant as a travel retail-exclusive bottling, and maturation has taken place in bourbon casks.

Ginger snaps, peaches, pineapple, and vanilla on the relatively light, fresh nose, which also has just a wisp of smoke in the background.

Medium-bodied, the palate offers soft toffee, milk chocolate, spices, and the same fruit notes as the nose.

The finish is quite lengthy, with a final flourish of black pepper.

Big sherry influence immediately, with walnut skin, raisin bread, and mixed peels.

Seems pretty dry, and the malty undertow here is whole grain bread.

Balvenie’s signature sweetness comes across like soft brown Demerara sugar before it shifts into forest floor, mulch, nut, and dried berries.

Water makes it more woody, with burlap, cacao, a little earthiness, and a slightly bitter exit.

The mix of honey, citrus, fruit, and malt which sits at Balvenie’s core is beginning to deepen.

The citrus fruits, for example, are becoming concentrated, the honey is set clover, the fruits moving into cooked apricot and banana.

Rounded and thick in the mouth, where the honeyed aspects and fleshiness of the fruits take control, before a bloom of bridal bouquet.

Tremendously complex, here’s Balvenie's flowering into mid-period maturity.

Peat smoke married with lush notes of sultana, ripe peaches, pineapple, white chocolate, shortbread, and thick honey.

Deeper and darker in character than the BenRiach 25 year old also reviewed here, with more sherry character.

Chewy toffee, nougat, and rum infused with raisin provide the foundation of this whisky.

Background notes of cinnamon, baker’s chocolate, and a suggestion of wet leather and old parchment add intrigue.

This peated expression was matured in quarter casks and is the first bottling to be launched since BenRiach was acquired by Brown-Forman in April 2016.

The nose offers sweet peat and new leather, coal, and a hint of iodine.

What you look for in a finished whisky is for some of the distillery's character to be apparent, but also enhanced.

Benrinnes is a big, meaty dram, which suits sherry and its feral aspect is there.

It has power, and while you can see the join between original spirit and finish, it’s a pretty happy match.

The nose is initially reminiscent of curried mutton with an added heathery earthiness and some distillery sulfur.

It then dries into biltong/pemmican with some faint barley notes behind.

It’s a relief when water releases some surprisingly soft treacle toffee sweetness, but it’s not quite enough to balance the massive meaty assault.

When compared to younger expressions, there’s less peaches and more citrus (lemon, tangerine).

It is thicker on the palate-with notes of fat barley and crème brulee-before dry, resinous oak notes intensify.

The newest member of the ever-expanding range hailing from Gordon & MacPhail’s own distillery in Forres.

This example has been aged in port pipes — and it shows immediately on the nose.

Benromach is a teasing mid-weight Speysider, and this has added depth of sweet damson jam-like aromas mixed with Seville orange (marmalade) and some milky nut.

Initially matured in bourbon barrels for 6 years, the spirit was then aged for a further 31 months in wine casks from the Hermitage Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée.

Soft on the nose, with fresh red berries, oiled leather, cinnamon, and a hint of smoke.

Rich, slightly smoky cherry and berry notes on the palate, plus milk chocolate and lively spices.

Initially fruity, then drying in the finish with wood smoke and light tannins.

Aromas reminiscent of a holiday spice cake-ginger, cinnamon, honey, and a touch of citrus fruit.

Medium bodied, but it coats the palate-there's some viscosity here.

The flavors are rather soothing and very much like its aroma, with a malty sweetness throughout and a lingering finish.

The owners of Blair Athol have chosen not to export this whisky to the U.S.

For this reason it can be rather difficult to find, only occasionally being imported by one of the independent bottlers.

This particular expression is a very good example from this distillery.

This distillery-only bottling strips away the sweet gloopiness of the standard 12 year old — and is all the better for that.

The nose is soft and gentle, with rose petals and rose hips over a base of ripe plum and a touch of ginger cake.

The palate is intriguing and holds the attention, with citrus fruits, bitter apple, spice, and a touch of peppermint.

The finish is long and warming, and the overall experience is highly enjoyable.

New to Duncan Taylor’s Dimensions range is this single cask (#2927), cask strength offering from Perthshire’s Blair Athol distillery.

Sweet and fruity on the nose, majoring in tinned pineapple in syrup.

Toffee, nougat, and a hint of freshly-dug soil make up the supporting aromatic cast.

Full bodied and initially as sweet in the mouth as it was on the nose, with vigorous spices, particularly nutmeg, then it begins to dry.

The long finish is characterized by powdery cocoa and oak tannins.

There have been some legendary Hart Brothers bottlings of Bowmore (the 1966 bottled in ’74 is a classic) so this has a lot to live up to.

The nose is creamy and discreet, but Bowmore is less about charging out wreathed in smoke and more a dram where peat is part of the totality.

Here you get seashells and low-tide aromas, along with green banana.

Sadly, the final chapter in a series which deservedly acquired cult status because of the way it showed how well Bowmore behaved in close proximity to sherry casks.

This was aged in oloroso and PX and has a thick, dark nose, all dried black fruits and saddlebags.

It needs water to bring out fresh fruits, and while there’s a bitterness on the end, that’s a minor cavil.

This vatting of three virgin oak casks and one oloroso butt was so keenly priced that it sold out in seconds, all 1,500 bottles of it.

It shows Bowmore, that ever-changing, elusive Islay dram in perfumed, scented mode.

I picked up vetiver (an integral part of classic male cologne), but also peach, some flamed peels, and plenty of smoke.

The palate dips into the sea for a second, then again becomes scented, alongside gentle chocolate.

A mélange of red berry fruits, firm malt, thick vanilla and spicy oak, along with a hint of grape skin, anise, and orange peel.

One taste bears this out with its dominant honeyed fruit foundation (lemons, melons, pineapple).

Still, that Bruichladdich freshness and appetizing "sea breeze" character dovetails nicely.

Fuller, more rounded, and with a bit more going on here than the Full Strength expression reviewed below, but not as appetizing.

A fresh, appetizing whisky of brine and white pepper, with an underlying foundation of vanilla, barley, and grassy/hay-like notes.

It is unusual to find a Bruichladdich whisky with this much sherry influence-this one is aged in a refill sherry hogshead.

I must admit that I generally like a less sherried Bruichladdich-it makes it easier to appreciate the distillery's subtle complexities.

While there certainly is more than enough sherry to go around in this whisky, the distillery character does manage to fight its way through.

This whisky's strong point is that the sherry influence is clean and not insipid like some sherried whiskies.

Chewy caramel, toffee, and ripe fruit notes are most evident in this whisky, with Bruichladdich's signature-an appetizing fresh briny character-emerging midway on the palate through to the finish.

If you like Bruichladdich and you appreciate a cleanly sherried whisky, then I think you'll enjoy this one.

Fruit is the common thread to this lightly peated whisky; red fruit, that is.

Red raspberry, red currant, red seedless grape, strawberry, and red apple.

A gentle sweetness (creamy vanilla, light molasses) balances all this fruit.

This is definitely  not the same Rocks I reviewed two years ago.

Since its reopening eleven years ago this year, Bruichladdich has been growing barley on Islay—a laudable move.

This glimpse into the developing program shows what seems initially to be a delicately fragile dram that soon reveals an intense sweet depth behind the spring flowers.

This purity of intent continues on the palate with a thick creaminess that’s typical of the distillery, while a tart finish adds interest.

The latest in the Elements series is clean in a freshly-showered kind of fashion.

The fact that it’s backed up with bran, agave syrup, and pancake batter just helps to emphasize this image of a sunlit breakfast.

The palate is sweet, fat, and juicy, typical of how texture is as important as flavor with the Laddie.

In time there’s some cinnamon with a preserved lemon acidity that enlivens the finish.

The spirit has a soft and nutty undertow, plus a gingery note that is given weight and depth by the cask.

Amontillado, with its nuttier character, is an ideal bridge between the two.

This shows surprising maturity with more oxidized and mulch aromas alongside coffee grounds, and a character that’s drifting into meaty.

With water, it’s still more in your face than any official bottling.

Where you tend to associate Caol Ila with oily, peaty, and maritime characteristics, this is altogether more feisty and ballsier, with a glance to the big three peaty distilleries in the south of Islay, and even a nod to its peppery cousin on Skye.

On the nose there is peat, but it is tempered by dark chocolate; some citrus there, too.

The taste is quite sharp, with bitter lemon, licorice, and sooty peat to the fore.

Certainly an interesting take on this intriguing distillery, and far removed from last year’s relatively gentle 25 year old release, but there are questions over the balance, and whether it’s a better whisky is a moot point.

Delicate and a little akin to chilled manzanilla sherry: fresh almond, salinity, light yeast.

The palate is much sweeter, with finally some cask-derived sugars beginning to show.

Then it rushes to the shoreline and takes a gulp of water, giving an effect like saltwater taffy.

This single cask bottling of Clynelish from Wemyss Malts is 16 years old, and just 302 bottles were yielded by the bourbon hogshead in which maturation took place.

Milk chocolate, orange, and malt on the nose; fragrant, with stem ginger.

Zesty and notably spicy on the palate, with applesauce, peaches, and digestive biscuits.

Relatively long in the finish, with oak, allspice, and persistent fruitiness.£67

If you’re looking for a bold, dry, spicy Speysider, this is the one.

A fighting vanilla sweetness manages to keep the whisky from becoming too austere.

Gritty texture, with cedar wood, clove, spearmint, anise, herbal notes, dried fruit, and dark chocolate.

Half the whisky was aged in bourbon barrels, the other half in sherry casks.

This whisky has always been on my short list as one of the finest, most affordable 12 year old single malts available.

While the price may have gone up a bit (I remember when it was $20!), the quality remains the same.

A well-balanced dram, with its tell-tale orange marmalade accompanied by tangerine, pineapple upside-down cake, vanilla-soaked barley, subtle brine, and caramel, all leading to a spicy cinnamon and dried vanilla finish.

Aged exclusively in first-fill casks (60% of it sherry cask), and its oak intensity shows.

Sweet, but with a steady dose of dried spice, oak resin, and teasing tobacco to back it up.

Silky texture and lush, with fallen orchard fruit, tangerine, chocolate-covered orange, and lemon meringue.

The oloroso takes what is typically a pleasingly honeyed, but not particularly complex, malt and adds a layer of fruit to it.

Crisp, clean notes of lemon, pineapple, and ginger, are softened by honeyed malt, vanilla, and hay.

Distilled between October and March, matured in American (first-fill and refill) and European oak casks; meant to be served ice-cold.

From the freezer, concentrated aromas of pineapple, hints of honey and smoke.

At room temperature, less intense fruitiness, more honey, and ginger.

A syrupy mouthfeel from the freezer, with soft spices and orchard fruits.

The palate is more complex at room temperature, with heathery spice, pepper, apricots, raisins, and milk chocolate.

Yeah, it’s still a little on the young side, but what it lacks in maturity is compensated by a dynamic youthful complexity.

A distinctive whisky, with coal tar, damp kiln smoke, caramelized fruit, smoked almond, walnut, licorice stick, and maple-cured bacon.

The latest in this Perthshire distillery’s ongoing Port Cask series of releases has been wholly matured in a bodega port butt since being distilled in 2003.

The nose is fragrant, featuring summer berries and glacé cherries, while the palate suggests canned pineapple with cream, contrasting with red wine notes.

The finish is quite lengthy, with raspberries, spicy oak, and a whiff of smoke.

The eighth edition of heavily-peated Edradour bottled under the Ballechin label is part of the distillery’s Discovery Series and has been aged in Sauternes wine casks.

Sweet and soft on the palate, with more fruity smoke, notably pineapple-influenced, with a hint of smoked fish.

The finish is medium to long, with ashy peat and slightly bitter citrus fruits.

A nice example of what port wood finishing should do for a whisky.

The port influence (finished one year in a port pipe) has taken what would normally have been a fairly straight-forward whisky when it is young-clean, light, and dry with subtle notes of herbs and spices-and added some extra weight along with balancing sweet toffee and full fruit, without dominating.

What is it with all these older, sherried bottles of Glen Grant from the independent bottlers, anyway?

The balance of sherry and oak is commendable, and the flavor is clean with that Glen Grant “dried herb” character still evident.

Sweet fruit notes (berries in honey, peach pits, sultana, ripe grape) along with almonds and tobacco fill out the palate.

The initial nose is soft fruits doused in condensed milk, which contributes to an overall impression of light toffee and, weirdly for this distillery in its contemporary guise, some smoke.

Quite intense; it needs water, which calms proceedings allowing typical Glen Grant purity to come through.

The fruits now have some added weight and, again, that smokiness.

A new addition to the core range, this shows Glen Grant with a little more weight, but just a little.

Here, the distillery’s signature green elements—spring flowers, fresh apple and pear notes are given a little added weight—apple syrup, toffee, and cooked fruits on the palate.

If you’d like an alternative to Glenlivet or Glenfddich 12 then look no further.

A Glen Ord bottled by the London wine and spirits establishment of Milroy’s, and a relatively rare opportunity to sample single malt from this Diageo-owned distillery.

The nose initially presents lemon zest, then peaches and caramel, with cream soda notes.

Very fruity and lively in the mouth, with a nutty, malty undercurrent.

Medium in length; firm, with spicy fruit lasting to the very end, accompanied by a touch of well-mannered fresh oak.

This relatively youthful whisky was matured in bourbon barrels, before a period in Pedro Ximénez sherry casks.

Sweet, red berry notes on the nose, with slightly smoky vanilla and caramel.

Voluptuous in the mouth, with spicy, rich sherry notes, sultanas, and ginger.

A major player in Ballantine’s, this Moray coast distillery is rarely seen in single malt guise.

Very gentle, sweet, and juicy start with licks of cream, a hint of barley, and the gentle grassiness typical of the distillery.

The palate is lightly sticky — Glenburgie for its lightness always shows good succulence — with buttery vanilla, malt, and a touch of toasty oak.

There’s plenty going on here, but it’s not as vibrant as the other GlenDronachs.

Lots of sherry influence, viscous, and a bit sappy, with Curaçao, honey-drenched fruit, raspberry tart, black cherry, and ripe malt leading to a grape stem finish.

In style, this is closest to the 1978 in its levels of sweetness.

Here, though, there is added key lime pie, juicy white peaches, and whipped cream alongside that deep Glenfarclas roasted ‘polished brass’ note.

The medium-weight palate is pure and sweet with light orchard fruits.

The most freshly acidic of the selection, with a hint of flowers on the very end.

Named in honor of the early Portuguese explorers, this newest Glenfiddich expression has spent a lengthy period of secondary maturation in Madeira drums.

This has given a rich sweet fruitiness — think blueberry muffins mixed with moss alongside date, fig, and black grape.

The palate is sweet and smooth with a pickup of gingery spices toward the finish.

One of the duo of releases in Glenfiddich’s Experimental Series, ‘IPA’ was finished for 3 months in casks that previously held the Speyside Craft Brewery’s India pale ale.

The nose offers hops and honey, malt, toffee, cooking apples, and lemon.

Smooth on the palate, with more honey and toffee, soft spices and, ultimately, slightly bitter, hoppy ale notes.

The finish is medium in length, with dry spices and plain chocolate.

This 19 year old example of Glen Garioch from 1993 offers a nose of orange blossom, sherry, and milk chocolate, becoming sweeter with time.

Sweet and fruity on the palate, with cherries, icing sugar, and a hint of smoky caramel.

Medium to long in the finish, with persistent citrus notes, cinnamon, nutmeg, and ginger.

Following on from Revival, Glenglassaugh has released 6,000 bottles of Evolution, an expression also made after the distillery’s reopening in 2008.

It has been matured in first-fill George Dickel barrels and bottled at cask strength.

Peaches and gingerbread on the nose, with brittle toffee, icing sugar, and vanilla.

Luscious soft fruits dipped in caramel figure on the palate, with coconut and background stem ginger.

Glenglassaugh distillery launched both unpeated and peated expressions matured in octave casks, approximately one-eighth the capacity of a butt.

The nose of this unpeated Classic is sweet, with ripe apples, peaches, toffee, and buttery spice.

Smooth on the palate, with more peaches and now intense spiciness, followed by vanilla, aniseed, licorice, new oak, and mild cloves in the long, slightly citric finish.

Exclusively for the U.S. as an addition between the 10 and the 17 year old.

Central to its composition is a ‘parcel’ of refill hogsheads, to which a number of European oak butts have been added.

Initially slightly herbal on the nose, with developing fresh fruits and vanilla.

Full and confident on the palate, with tropical fruits, stem ginger, and hazelnuts.

Pleasantly fresh, briny, and yeasty, which works nicely with the atypical toffee and nutty notes.

Glenkinchie’s dry, grassy character emerges occasionally, as does some delicate background spice and a hint of lime.

Amontillado casks are used here, which add a certain almond-like note to the nose, as well as more obvious oakiness.

The effect is a general deepening and lengthening of aroma and flavor.

The dry notes have gone, replaced by a sweeter and more generous palette of flavors.

The fresh meadow flowers are more like cut flowers in a florist shop, the fruits hint toward peach, and there’s a new citric burst on the finish.

This bottling of Glenmorangie has been released to raise awareness of marine conservation.

A proportion of the whisky has been finished in amontillado sherry butts.

The nose offers honey, vanilla, peaches, toffee bonbons, wood lacquer, sherry, and a hint of peat.

Soft and elegant on the palate, with fruity spice, nutty toffee, more sherry, and sweet smoke.

Slightly smoky in the finish, with soft oak, citrus fruit, and aniseed.

Taghta—Gaelic for “Chosen One”—is the result of Glenmorangie’s innovative Cask Masters program, in which crowd-sourcing strongly influenced the final release.

It is non-chill filtered and has been finished in manzanilla sherry casks.

Fragrant, slightly salty, fruity sherry notes, sweet spices on the nose.

New leather and lots of spice on the palate, with olives, rock salt, and a suggestion of red wine.

The first non-vintage Glenrothes in recent memory, allowing the distillery more flexibility in cask selection when making a bottling.

True to Glenrothes, this expression is mouth-coatingly malty, with well-integrated bright fruit notes, creamy vanilla, praline and honey.

Matured exclusively in ex-bourbon barrels (American white oak, or quercus alba), and certified kosher.

The bourbon oak influence is very evident, showing creamy vanilla and coconut, with additional fruit (orange creamsicle, pineapple, black raspberry, blueberry, and gooseberry).

A pleasant, easy-going, seamless dram—and perhaps the most approachable Glenrothes whisky.

Nicely malty, too, with interwoven notes of vanilla, caramel custard, and hazelnut, offset nicely by dry oak spices and a hint of peat.

On the surface, not very complex, but very satisfying nonetheless.

Amber-gold colored (not as dark as the other Beltramo’s offering here), with notes of caramel, honey, heather, and bright fruit, evolving into gentle cinnamon, vanilla, and ginger.

Einar was joint Earl of Orkney from 1014, and this bottling moves the Warrior Series slightly further into familiar Highland Park territory.

Some gentle smoke on the nose, with fresh newsprint, ginger, caramel, and a hint of halibut oil.

This 17 year old single cask (#10042) bottling of Highland Park was distilled in September 1996 and is presented non-chill filtered and with no added color in Douglas Laing’s Old Particular range.

Baked cereal and peeled apples on the peaty nose, while dark, smoky notes contrast with lighter, fruity flavors on the palate, along with a sprinkling of pepper.

The finish dries, with more pepper, bonfire embers, and coffee grounds.

Dark Origins is a new addition to Highland Park’s core range, inspired by the distillery’s founder, Magnus Eunson.

The recipe embraces twice as many first-fill sherry casks than that of Highland Park 12 year old.

Chocolate malt, caramel, and ripe bananas on the nose, with a whiff of coal dust.

Silky on the palate, with dry sherry, autumn berries, plus more coal and a spicy, plain chocolate edge.

Palate: Surprisingly gentle in texture and on the light side of medium in body.

An appetizing saltiness emerges towards the finish, but is fleeting.

This annual limited edition release is finally available in the U.S. Youthful, vibrant, and thumping, with the sea flowing through its veins.

Coal tar, peat smoke, brine, seaweed, bright fruit (pear, tangerine), and soft vanilla all compete for attention.

The only thing holding me back from scoring it higher is that it comes across as a bit too youthful.

Brought back as a celebration of the distillery’s 200th anniversary and, in the vein of other 15 year old expressions, is somewhat restrained.

Rather than big phenols there’s an aroma of lanolin, sautéed scallop, fleshy fruit, and real sweetness.

The palate shoes some oozing oils and a whiff of creosote, but this is a tea party rather than a wild ceilidh.

Maybe bottling at 46% would have given the drive that’s missing.

Quite nutty (especially the latter half of the palate), with chewy toffee, vanilla fudge, subtle fruit, and leafy smoke.

An improvement over the distillery-bottled 10 year old, which I suggested (Vol. 16, No. 2) needed to reach its teens to begin to fully develop.

As with Rosebank, Douglas Laing & Co. Ltd. has made a habit of releasing single malts from the now-demolished distillery of Littlemill, which formerly stood not far from Auchentoshan.

The latest variant was distilled in November 1991 and bottled early in 2012.

Sweetly spicy on the straightforward palate, with ginger to the fore.

Cadenhead is responsible for this veteran cask strength release distilled in 1977 at the now-demolished distillery of Littlemill, located a couple of miles from Auchentoshan.

The nose is sweet, with icing sugar, vanilla, honey, and peaches.

Initially sweet and full on the palate, slightly resinous, with marzipan and sherbet, then quite bitter oak kicks in.

Rich, malty aroma with notes of vanilla, honey, oak, and floral undertones.

Flavors are big and malty, with notes of honey and vanilla up front, then becoming rather dry with oak and subtle citrus.

Plenty of the distillery’s fresh fruits, here with some Demerara sugar sprinkled on the top, a little hint of almond, peppermint, candied apple, and hard fruit sweets.

The palate continues in the same vein, with some more apple (baked this time) and a chalky texture.

Water allows it to become more creamy (think orange barley water), while a green fresh note emerges in the background.

This expression is atypical for a Macallan whisky-the standard Macallan line is aged in sherry casks, while this one is aged in a bourbon cask.

The whisky is very clean and creamy, with lovely floral notes (lavender, heather, rose), intertwined with spices (especially vanilla), and fruit (baked apple, pineapple, coconut).

An interesting application of Macallan, aged originally in a bourbon cask and then in Ridge Zinfandel barrels.

Quite sweet and full-flavored, with ripe, jammy fruit, beach plum, subtle (yet deep) toffee, and grape skin, all laced with honey.

Typical Port Ellen on the nose, very clean, precise, and austere, hiding its sweetness in a new pigskin wallet.

Though there are hints of apple and almond, it has a chalky edge and surprisingly low levels of smoke.

The palate starts with Darjeeling tea and roasted fruits, then heads to the kelp-strewn seashore.

A very aromatic whisky, with dry, delicate herbal, floral notes.

Gentle on the palate-delicately sweet and fruity up front, then becoming dry with herbal, spice notes.

Aromatic, floral, herbal aromas (a veritable potpourri), with soft background vanilla malt notes and a hint of lemon.

Soft, malty vanilla notes on the palate with interwoven notes of herbs, subtle dried fruit, and delicate wood resins.

Thick barley and viscous, with ever-present brine and berried fruit throughout.

Underlying notes of waxy fruit (no doubt from some sherry cask aging), clementine, pineapple, and black licorice emerge, followed by the brine kicking in again towards the finish.

Springbank’s tasting room bottling of its triple-distilled malt will not disappoint any fan of the official bottling; all its rounded and honeyed characteristics are firmly in evidence here.

The nose is soft and sweet, with praline and a touch of condensed sweet malt joining creamed vanilla.

Dilute it, though, and it’s a very pleasant drink, with crystallized grapefruit, traces of hickory and menthol, some honey, and sweet candy.

Later on, spice comes through, and the finish is long, fruity, and spicy.

An interesting take, but not a radical departure from the official bottling.

Style: Speyside single malt scotch Color: Golden bronze Aroma: Syrupy.

Honey up front, then becoming dry through to the end, with notes of dried fruit, mint, and oak.

Very thick in texture and mouthcoating -- almost chewy -- with ripe barley, shortbread cookies, and honey up front.

Dried vanilla, violet, cinnamon, and bright fruit notes emerge mid-palate.

The dried spices and moderate oak tannins linger on the finish, contrasting the whisky’s rich, sweet entry.

The classic Talisker personality shows-seaweed, brine, peat smoke, and freshly ground pepper on the finish.

There are even other interesting flavors I enjoy, notably vanilla, licorice root, charcoal, and bitter chocolate.

But this whisky needs to be a little livelier to be a truly great whisky.

While there’s no age statement, there’s older whisky in here for sure, and maybe that’s part of its “reserved” nature.

It certainly is a nice whisky, but I would prefer the more vibrant Talisker 18 year old -at two-thirds the cost.

The latest release from Talisker is an NAS bottling which contains whisky matured in toasted and refill American oak casks.

According to the distiller, this is “An easy-drinking Talisker…more approachable, but still definitely Talisker.”

Certainly approachable on the nose, with tangerines, honey, and milk chocolate, before ozone and peat smoke develop.

Medium-bodied, with citrus fruit and increasingly hot spices, though never overwhelming.

Aged on the Scottish mainland for 14 years and then finished off in sherry casks on the Island of Mull.

A fresh whisky with a hint of brine, along with richer nutty toffee and chocolate fudge, embedded with dried fruit.

Delicate oak resin peppers the finish, balancing the whisky’s sweetness.

One of the best unpeated Tobermory whiskies (i.e. non-Ledaig) whiskies I’ve tasted.

One of Speyside’s youngest distilleries, Tomintoul has been a relatively shy performer until recently, when a raft of new releases (some peated) have appeared.

This non-chill filtered example is, for me, the best of the bunch.

Pale in hue, it has a light, clean floral aroma — think daffodils — with plenty of white fruits and very subtle oak.

The palate has pear juice, light vanilla, and a long sweet finish.

Selected by distillery manager Douglas Campbell, currently in his 50th year at Tomatin.

It has been matured in a combination of American and European oak casks, and just 200 cases have been released.

Citrus fruits on the nose, notably oranges, and apricots, with a hint of damp soil.

More fruit on the palate, orange wine gums, ginger, and gentle oak.

Long and slowly drying in the finish, with encroaching aniseed and tannins.

Tomatin Legacy has been matured in a combination of bourbon and virgin oak casks, and after an initial release in Europe, worldwide availability will follow.

Fresh and lively on the sweet, fruity palate, with tinned pineapple, cake mix, and more pepper.

Quite dry in the medium length finish, with a suggestion of chili.

The nose is nutty and earthy, with dry sherry, cooking apples, vanilla, and emerging icing sugar.

Silky in the mouth, with lively spices, Jaffa oranges, muted sherry, and mixed nuts.

The finish is medium in length, nutty, with spice and persistent citrus fruit.

Exclusive to North America, this bottling was matured in bourbon hogsheads for 9 years, and then finished in French oak casks for a further 3 years.

The casks originally contained red wine from the Bacalhoa winery.

Peaches, vanilla, milk chocolate, and ginger on the nutty nose, with new-mown hay.

This NAS cask strength expression of Tomatin was matured in a mix of bourbon and virgin American oak casks.

The nose is sweet and fragrant, with vanilla, cinnamon, and developing coconut ice.

Silky on the palate initially, softly spiced, with vanilla toffee, pears, and apples; then the spices intensify, introducing a hint of chili.

(282 bottles; exclusive to Robertson’s, Pitlochry, Perthshire) £55

The bourbon cask-matured partner to the Sherry Matured bottling (see above), this expression similarly comprises a vatting of whisky distilled in 1973, 1977, 1988, 1991, 2002, and 2006.

Both Contrasting Casks are offered in non-chill filtered format.

Apple pie, with buttery caramel, milk chocolate, and coconut on the nose.

Zesty spices on the early palate, then custard, contrasting lemon, and a note of char.

Initially aged in bourbon barrels, this expression was transferred into Cabernet Sauvignon wine casks in March 2011 for additional maturation.

Musty wine notes on the early nose soon become red berries and vanilla.

Supple on the palate, with big red berry notes, plus honey and ginger.

Lingering ginger and raspberries in the finish, drying to dark chocolate (2,520 bottles) £70

This 9 year old bottling has been fully matured in Caribbean rum barrels.

Quite delicate on the nose, with wet grass, then emerging coconut and whipped cream.

Slick on the palate, with an instant tropical fruit hit—ripe banana and pineapple—plus more cream, cinnamon, and hazelnut.

Spicy and nutty in the finish, with a final tropical fruit tang (6,600 bottles) £40

There’s something rather round peg in a square hole about Tormore, that grand urban palace of a distillery in wildest Speyside.

Here, though, things look promising to start with: rice crackers, and a spicy, rye-like hardness on top of a vanilla-accented, sweet trail mix of a nose with some earthiness behind.

Tullibardine has been offering a 1988 vintage edition for several years, but in 2011 it bottled a new variant at 23 years of age, matured in a mixture of first-fill bourbon barrels and ex-sherry hogsheads.

The palate is initially sweet and fruity, with toffee, lively spices, and more herbal notes duly appearing.

Finished principally in Pedro Ximenez Spanish sherry casks, Tullibardine 500 Sherry has a fragrant nose, with new leather, beeswax, apple, and vanilla.

The palate is smooth and sherried, with more leather, brittle toffee, orange peel, honey, and nutmeg.

The fruity finish is notably spicy, with lingering wood polish notes.

The second release in the Custodians’ series was matured in two sherry hogsheads—one first-fill and the other second-fill.

The early nose offers herbal and menthol notes, old resin, citrus fruits, then milk chocolate-coated peppermint creams… idiosyncratic.

The palate is quite thin, with more citrus fruits, almonds, and developing wood notes.

The finish is lightly oaky and mouth-drying, with a touch of black pepper.

Time in Montilla fino casks hasn’t diminished the fresh fruitiness.

Like the ‘Kinchie, what the finish has done is allow the palate to thicken out and show what seems like a more mature personality.

All in all, there is greater concentration and ripeness with an added ginger note.

Thick, viscous golden syrup, digestive biscuits, and Almond Joy bars underpin some soft, peaty aromas.

Satin smooth on the tongue, with lemon, lime, orange, and dried pineapple, but enough malt to keep things interesting.

The finish riffs on a ripe lemon theme accompanied by spicy stardust.

For the few extra bucks, the more mature component whiskies make for a richer, fuller, and more satisfying experience than The Antiquary’s red-labeled bottle.

Wemyss Malts names the sources of these single cask bottlings for the first time in the series.

The hogshead in which it was matured has yielded just 320 bottles.

Sweet on the nose, with apricots, fudge, creamy vanilla, and drinking chocolate.

Tropical fruits on the palate, with malt, hazelnuts, and spicy oak.

One of two single cask bottlings of 17 year old Clynelish released by Wemyss Malts in the fall of 2014.

The palate is rich and viscous, with a sprinkling of pepper over sliced red apples, sweet spices, vanilla, and hazelnuts.

Distilled in 1994 and matured in a single hogshead, this 21 year old expression is part of Wemyss Malts’ 2016 Midsummer Single Cask Release.

Who could refuse a blend of single malts wholly matured in oloroso sherry casks?

They’ve perfectly bottled the aroma of molten tiffin: the chocolate, cocoa, biscuit, raisin, dried dates, and walnut are all here.

Sipping brings on chocolate, coffee, malt, ginger, nutmeg, and dried fig.

There’s no slow reveal, it pretty much lays its cards on the table immediately; rather than developing flavors, they extinguish one, by one leaving a finish of cocoa and maltiness.

Perfect for fall; like strolling through an orchard polishing a windfall apple before crunching into its juicy fruit.

Nose of caramel, dry worked wood, banana chips, cinnamon, and Indian spices.

The palate is warming, with apple juice backed by a slowly growing spice note, later caramels, and a slight oxidized apple and brown peel note to end.

A solid presence in the range, the strength and malt content continue to mark these out over their contemporaries.

Grapefruit peels, sliced juicy orange, and lemon butter icing on the nose.

The palate is thinner than others in the range, with crystallized orange, fudge, plus cardamom and mild pepper.

The finish of sugared satsumas is boosted by a long lasting trail of spices.

Really thick and malty for a blend (there’s a high malt content here for sure), and also nicely mature for 8 years old.

Great balance too, with the island aggressiveness tamed by a rich, malty elegance.

Delicious honey, toasted oak, firm peat, dark chocolate, and glazed citrus meld nicely with the malt, leading to a honeyed, lightly-peppered finish.

Creamy and mouth-coating on the palate, with a nice malty, honey-tinged backbone.

Bright fruitabounds, with golden raisin, lemon meringue, peach, and a hint of pineapple.

Notes of creamy vanilla and gently nutty, through to its soft finish.

Deeper and darker when compared to its younger siblings, but with the same personality.

Drier, especially on the finish, with added oak resin, espresso, leather, and tobacco.

An uncommon exclusive bottling of a 6 year old cask strength malt.

Light gold in color, the nose is vegetal, more peat bog than peat smoke, with an undercurrent of pastry cream and rose.

The entry is flavorful and inviting with smoked pineapple, clove, and rose.

Peak smoke arrives in full force in the mid-palate, which drops the sweet and becomes spicy.

A new, and welcome, permanent member of the core Kilchoman range, this comes from a mix of sherry finished and sherry matured whisky.

The nose kicks off with a lovely cigar ash note—a cigar club toward the end of the evening—and while there are some dried fruits from the sherry, Kilchoman’s gentle, light character gives energy and lemony lift—shellfish, grass, and herbs.

A “branded” malt, meaning we don’t know which distillery this whisky came from.

Fresh and quite fruity (peach, nectarine, golden raisin, orange, pineapple) with a nice underlying honey, vanilla, and caramel sweetness.

It varies stylistically from ‘traditional’ Springbank, as it is triple distilled using unpeated malt.

The 8 year old expression has been matured in 60 percent ex-bourbon and 40 percent sherry wood.

The nose is fresh, light, fruity, and faintly resinous, with gentle spice.

Sherbet, malt, and vanilla on the attractive and lively palate, with developing spicy oak and a hint of pepper in the finish.

Master of Malt is an online whisky company that seems to try its hand at most things and is bringing a fresh irreverence to the world of whisky.

This was created in partnership with the bass guitarist of British rock band Athlete, and it's rather good.

Sweet and rich with toffee, orange chocolate, and honey, it's another blend with a lot to say for itself.

Master of Malt has accumulated quite a trophy cabinet for their work on blends.

The nose is inviting, with butter toffee, Bramley apples, fennel seeds, cut lawns, and chocolate-covered oat biscuits.

It’s a pretty smooth proposition, serving up caramel maltiness, stewed apple, and orange and grapefruit pith, with just a hint of sharp lemon freshness to open up with.

We don't see very much Craigellachie as a single malt because most of it goes into blending, and from that we might draw the conclusion that it's not particularly distinctive in its own right.

If it plays a role in this mix it's a submissive one then, because after a not altogether enticing nose that has gooseberry, green salad, and some prickly chili pepper, the palate is all about a mouth-coating big pepper hit that stays long into the finish.

The old name for Edinburgh has been hijacked for use on this mix of Islay malts, and appropriate it is.

The creosote, damp outbuilding, and oily rope nose is distinctive and strong, the peat pronounced in the taste, though gooseberry, green melon, and a trace of kumquat are also in the mix, and there's pepper in there too.

Brian Kinsman’s new creation was inspired by their founder William Grant, with a remit to create a malty blend of character.

Digestive biscuits, malt, honeycomb, and confectioner’s chocolate melted over a bain-marie.

It’s a satisfyingly rich dram, well-structured with a great mouthfeel that wanes with natural dilution.

Banoffee pie, caramel biscuits, and maltiness deepen to flavors of coffee bean and molasses, leaving a teeth-coating finish of black coffee.

It will soon be 120 years since this workhorse of a distillery came into being.

Golden Grahams, sanded oak, whole lemon, floral blooms, and cumin seeds on the nose, but the whole confection is rather restrained.

The palate is sweet, but could be too sweet for some; Scottish tablet, caramel, ripe banana, granulated sugar, and ginger loaf.

Custard creams, lemon peel, and clotted cream create easygoing aromas on this drop from the mighty Edinburgh grain distillery.

The palate moves rapidly through flavors of lemon cake and lime zest, to grapefruit sharpness and fresh pineapple, reaching a plateau of sherbet and tangerine.

Like a bulldog chewing a wasp, there’s lip-puckering sharpness throughout, though it’s judiciously dosed with sufficient sweetness to counterbalance it.

A great introduction to the delights of the single grain category.

As young a Caledonian as you’ll find; I found the nose rather underdeveloped.

Crystallized lemon slices, green banana, solvents, dry grasses, and a sniff of nail polish remover.

In the mouth, lemon flavors, saccharine sweet honey, and banana dipped in melted chocolate, while the alcohol nips at the tongue.

A good trajectory redeems its character, leaving deep throbbing spice notes in the finish, with bitter citrus at the fringes.

More typical grain whisky territory here, with a nose of cornflakes, fresh cream, cut grass, filaments of orange peel, and a curiously dull pepper note.

Spice wins with a K.O. on sweetness and lays the citrus out cold on the canvas.

Creamy chocolate notes tarnished with hot pepper on the finish, though coffee-pot flavors emerge with a dash of water.

A very different whisky to its unaged namesake, and most unlike any of the other blends tasted for this issue.

This is less sweet than most blends, with tobacco leaf and ashtray to the fore, and a dusty, grainy note with a touch of oak, grape skin, and sweet heather.

I have a soft spot for the Braes: not only a forgotten part of Speyside, but the only distillery whose roof I’ve stood on.

Anyway, here you have yeastiness and a smell like just-baked, sugar-topped apple pie, the fruit cracking through warm pastry.

Sweet, direct, and slightly nervy, Braes is never going to be a heavy hitter, but this is the ideal dram to conjure up fading memories of summer.

How can you really compare this to a quality blend priced under $50?

It's hard not to view this as a victory of style over substance, and I object to premium whiskies being just 40% ABV, but nevertheless this is excellently made and the blending of whiskies over 21 years is exemplary.

It's rich and viscous with light peach and plum notes and a pleasant earthy base.

A thick nose with touches of fresh varnish and a little oiliness.

Has some substance and weight and the heavy florals (lily, jasmine) typical of mature Craig, alongside toffee.

The palate is ripe, juicy, and full, the cask adding a slight resinous edge.

Becomes fleshy, even waxy, with water, and decidedly more elegant.

Distilled in June 1994, this example of Deanston was aged for 20 years in a refill butt, which ultimately yielded 188 bottles.

Quite shy on the nose, a hint of starch, gentle malt, and ginger.

Shows its true colors on the palate: relatively full-bodied and sweet, with peaches and over-ripe apricots.

The finish is lengthy and sweet, with cocoa powder and sprightly oak.

There is sweetness, but it’s counteracted by this briny edge and an aroma like firelighters in among smoldering peat.

The smoke envelops the palate while you pick out edible seaweed and smoked oyster on the tongue.

This then moves into an aroma like crepe bandage and even a hint of ointment, then lychee and some maltiness.

Water brings out mash tun aromas and a pleasing whiff of sheep pens.

When diluted, the palate is very pretty, with the almond returning.

This was distilled the year before Carsebridge joined Scottish Grain Distillers under Distillers Company Limited (DCL).

It brings a nose of toasted muffins, whole lemon, light honey, vanilla, pencil shavings, and a slight herbal hit.

Smooth, thick, and viscous, with light lemon, honey, gentle spices, peach melba, and toffee.

A venerable, pleasant old grain, but it lacks the zing to become truly exceptional and distinctive.

An uncommon 26 year Lowland single grain whisky made from wheat and aged in refill bourbon casks.

Oak is quite present on the nose, but it's not alone: there's also bright citrus, pine, and white cake.

The opening is softer with vanilla and apricot, but it's only a brief respite before a very spicy mid-palate focused around oak and white pepper.

There is a fair amount of fire from the alcohol, which drives a very spicy and dry finish.

Fat and creamy, with distinct charred elements along with stewing pineapple, banana fritters, white chocolate, suntan oil, and a melting bar of nut-filled milk chocolate.

An instructive dram showing how maturity is very different from age.

To be honest, it’s slightly too much for me; like overdosing on cotton candy or sugar-topped donuts.

This 2000 vintage expression from Glenturret was matured in refill sherry hogsheads before bottling in 2015 as part of Gordon & MacPhail’s “MacPhail’s Collection” range.

The nose is earthy, with vanilla, treacle, and dark berries, plus fruit spices.

Full-bodied in the mouth, with spicy, zesty plums, raisins, cocktail cherries, and nutmeg.

The finish is lengthy, with black treacle, cocoa powder, and an edge of slightly bitter oak.

This peated expression from Tobermory distillery has been aged in refill, remade hogsheads.

The nose offers earthy peat, citrus fruit, vanilla, and smoked haddock in butter.

Big, sweet peat notes on the peppery palate, with marshmallows and lively spices.

The spices linger to the close, with peat embers and a hint of brine on the lips.

While most Wemyss Malts’ releases are named after flavor descriptors, this one adopts a well-known Shakespearean reference.

The nose offers toffee bonbons, coffee with condensed milk, and finally farmyard aromas.

The palate is relatively sweet, with spicy sherry notes and contrasting mildly citric fruit, plus a slight earthiness.

The finish is medium to long, with lingering spice and a carry-over of coffee from the nose.

This is a little darker in color than its younger counterpart (see below), although it is achieved without the complex recipe of different cask maturation that characterized the 2011 Special Releases bottling.

Weetabix, hazelnut shells, and the aroma of warm pretzels from a street vendor waft out of the glass.

It’s a soft, silky, wheat-flavored whisky that reaches into dark toffee and nutty territory.

Fresh and lightly nutty/biscuity combined with a gently swelling aroma of fruit syrups, green grape, lime (or green) jelly babies, and Quetsch, with that nut flour underneath.

The palate is similarly smooth, creamy, and upfront, with a decidedly acidic zing to the finish before the wood finally shows its presence.

A soft, delicious whisky that ticks all the right boxes but doesn’t really set the world alight.

At this age, there are more linear displays of fruit and sweetness than the 8 year old.

Behind the tarte tatin, butterscotch, light pepper, and wood spice is a green, verdant nose of wet foliage and public lawns in the morning mist.

It has a light to medium-weight texture of sugary butterscotch, strawberry, and raspberry developing around an oak and malt core.

When the fruit flavor withers, there is a drop off in flavor, leaving a malty melee.

An odd non-age stated blend that uses a solera system to get a drop of the original 1958 blend into the mix.

Very sherry influenced, with marionberry jam, malt, salt, and oak.

The integration and flavors are nice, but it all feels a bit muted.

A medium length and dry finish shows off some of the younger spirit in the mix.

Master blender Graham Coull hand-selected a variety of aged stock and cask types for this new global addition to the Label 5 range.

Vanilla, dark fruit, and gentle spices on the nose, but the appeal lies in the beautiful, clingy mouthfeel.

Warm marmalade, nuts, and oak flavors with whispers of cinnamon and clove combine to produce a creamy, smooth dram.

Good cask interaction here, allowing a light tropical fruit element to emerge alongside peach and apricot.

Juicy and sweet, in other words, with none of the usual Tormore rigidity.

The palate is equally concentrated, showing some heat, with a decent degree of fleshy elegance.

It begins to firm up, but it is good enough to change folks’ minds about this distillery.

Here, the blend has been given a Madeira finish, presenting an appealing nose of spun sugar, golden raisins, cinnamon, nutmeg, and hazelnut.

The blend has a creamy texture, with good weight to carry the flavors of orange peel, mango, and dried pineapple, leading to a zesty spark on swallowing.

Wood spices, nuttiness, and lingering toffee make for a satisfying finish.

The extra Madeira maturation is understated and perfectly judged.

Benachie, formerly known as Jericho, was an Aberdeenshire distillery built southeast of Huntly that existed from 1822–1913.

A dark amber dram with a nose of marmalade, ground almond, cherry lips, and vanilla essence.

Cooked plums after a peppery rush begin an attenuated flavor journey, exiting with a spicy finale.

Distilled in 1985, this expression of Highland Park was matured in a single bourbon cask that yielded 252 bottles.

Green apples, tinned mandarin oranges, linseed, and a hint of smoky chocolate on the nose.

Lingering peat smoke, root ginger, and a touch of vanilla in the medium-length finish.

Surprisingly punchy for its age, there’s very little cask activity here, so what you get is a reduction of Caol Ila into oils (lanolin) and whiffs of the harbor (drying fishing nets) rather than overt smokiness.

The palate is gentle and shy, with an unctuous feel that drifts into poached pear and light cream.

This example of the little-seen Glentauchers immediately shows classic distillery character, which is in the green grassy camp.

This verdant aspect continues into fresh fruit salad, with enough ripeness to indicate the time spent in cask.

This mix of freshness and weight extends onto the tongue, although the impact fades soon after a light spicy tingle on the back palate.

This single cask bottling from Langside Distillers was aged in a sherry butt and bottled in 2015.

Candied orange peel on the early nose, soft sweet sherry, and glacé cherries.

Sweet, spicy sherry, plus pepper and cinnamon on the uncomplicated palate.

From the most westerly grain distillery in Scotland comes this wee charmer, offering coconut fondant, galia melon, fresh cream, and a pleasing, fragrant foliage note (walking through dense reed beds in early summer).

A big, juicy dram with citrus, tropical fruits, and dabs of white pepper heat.

The creaminess builds as dilution occurs, then it reaches a natural plateau and hits cruise.

Drawn from a single refill barrel, the nose is like a day in the life of a honeybee: streams of pollen, rich nectar, heady scents of flying over bright summer flowers and summer picnics of white peaches and lemonade before returning to the hive to the sweet, sticky honey.

There’s an acidic palate of lemon juice, lime, honey, and lemon pith bordering on bitterness.

The finish is incredibly dry, like someone just invented lemon-scented sandpaper.

Creamy vanilla, fresh-cut grass, gentle herbal notes, Murray mints, and the warm newsprint wrappers of fish and chips on the coast (in a lovely, comforting way).

The cereals provide a sweet biscuit note, butterscotch candy, gingersnaps, and a nip of aniseed.

The outturn of cask #10804, its taste develops with dried orange peel, cookie dough, and vanilla.

Fading slowly, it leaves behind gentle spices and syrup-drizzled popcorn.

An immediate and perhaps surprising smokiness which brings to mind cask-aged mezcal (tepeztate to be precise), and it is this green, celery-accented element playing off some oily, nutty, and farmyard notes that gives balance and intrigue.

Water reveals its youth, but there’s enough cask action to add some weight to the palate, where the natural sweet spirit shows itself.

Matured in bourbon casks, this is the second release from the fledgling Caithness Distillery.

Clearly youthful on the nose, but not raw, with ginger, melon, and background resin.

Chili notes on the relatively dry palate, with nutmeg and spicy oak.

The finish is on the short side of medium in length, peppery, and slightly bitter.

Once decanted, this dram improves significantly and is rated on that basis.

Smoke comes at you immediately, the morning-after smoke of a spent fire, mixing with reeds and rushes, a touch of coconut, and light oak.

Water is needed to bring out sweetness alongside the Band-Aid note typical of many young peaty whiskies.

The palate is a lot sweeter than the nose suggests, bold and quite thick; honey adding a sticky quality that then moves into creosote and antiseptic cream.

The nose has a conspicuous grain quality to it, like a bouquet of flowers in a nail salon.

In addition to acetone, there is orange fondant and the smell of new Legos.

Soft marshmallow and orange cream dilute to strawberry candy, soft peaches, and pineapple, but it’s all swept aside by a Tabasco jackhammer that ricochets between the tongue and palate.

With whiskies aged for 5 years in bourbon barrels, this has a pleasant nose of dark toffee, vanilla, toasted whole grain bread, and light spices.

The mouthfeel is a bit flabby; chocolate and toasted spices, especially cinnamon and pepper, are quelled by malty caramel, baked orange, and touches of old leather.

The finish is dry, malty, and slightly nutty, with a hollow core of spices.

The nose has spice, toffee, wheat biscuits, and smoke, but the combination feels a little benign.

With a backbone of grain, there are flavors of graham cracker, chocolate ganache, well-baked fruitcake, banoffee pie, smoke, and dried peels, with a burst of spices on the finish.

This soft, bright, easy-going whisky is back in the U.S. after being absent for several years.

Very fragrant, with vibrant fruit (nectarine, plum, guava, pineapple, clementine), honeyed vanilla, and subtle macadamia.

Fairly light (a pre-dinner or leisurely afternoon malt, perhaps?), but evenly balanced.

A gentle introduction to single malts for the blended scotch drinker.

Its name derives from the fact that the whisky is aged in American oak bodies with French Oak heads (a cross of both oaks).

There’s no age statement, but the whiskies are all older than ten years.

This is a gentle, subtly complex, somewhat lithe, easy drinking whisky (and with less oak spice than its predecessor, The Spice Tree).

People think whisky is an after-dinner drink, but I think this would make a great aperitif because of its delicate dry spice notes and light body.

I’m picking up evenly-proportioned notes of vanilla and coconut, with more subtle notes of clove, anise, and delicate fruit, all wrapped up in a gentle, malty body.

A tribute this time from Edrington Group in the form of this one-off blend of The Famous Grouse.

The sherried element seems to have been upped as it shows lavish amounts of dark chocolate, black cherry, and a little treacle, with some orange peel and, with water, raspberry and heather.

 The palate shows a hint of smoke and builds through rich flavors to a toffee-accented finish.

Described as “an exotic mix of bananas, mango, pitaya, pineapples, guava, passion fruit, and raisins, all balanced perfectly by deep charred peaty notes.”

It sort of is, but this isn't a soft, silky smooth dessert whisky; it's Rod Stewart singing Air Supply's “All Out Of Love.”

It's soft and gentle, but the gravel may put off the softies, and it's far too bland to appeal to fans of Maggie May. Between a rock and a hard place.

Pleasingly aromatic and floral, with lively fruit, fresh cereal grain, honey and vanilla cream.

A very friendly whisky, conjuring up images of a sunny afternoon in Spring.

In terms of bang for your buck this has always been one of the very best blends, punching well above its weight.

Whether you feel the same about this revamped version depends on how much you want a peat punch.

Previously rough and gutsy, this is softer, with more licorice and treacle but also more younger sappiness.

but it's like an aging sportsman, replacing energy and attitude with guile and subtlety.

Until four years ago it was little known in its own right, its main purpose being as a key malt in Teacher’s.

Then Ardmore Traditional was released, and it’s been winning over drinkers ever since.

That malt is a delicatessen whisky: smoky, oily, and savory, a unique Highland malt with much to recommend it.

It’s clean and sweet, with pineapple candy, dusty and almost incense-like spices, and a liberal dose of sweet peat.

There’s talk of this becoming a permanent part of the Ardmore portfolio.

Let’s hope so: it’s further proof that Ardmore is a very interesting distillery indeed.

Rich, good body, blueberry muffin, black cherry, a lot of tannic grip (perhaps a little too much for balance).

Arran distillery has been making peated batches of spirit since 2004, and this NAS bottling is the fifth release of that spirit, peated to 20 ppm.

Nutty peat, spicy malt, toffee, and lemon on the mildly savory nose.

A bonfire smokiness develops steadily, with spice, nuts, and plain chocolate through to the relatively long finish, which features a persistent citric note.

Incredibly creamy, with mouth-coating vanilla, honeyed barley, hay, linseed oil, clementine, and subtle peach.

The whisky continues to cling to the palate long after the finish.

It’s what you would expect Auchentoshan to taste like, but bolder.

A nice whisky, but lacking the polish of the standard 21 year old expression.

American Oak is new to the Auchentoshan core range in 2014 and is the first release from this Lowland distillery to be matured solely in first-fill bourbon casks.

An initial note of rosewater, then Madeira, vanilla, developing musky peaches, and icing sugar.

Spicy fresh fruit on the palate, chili notes, and more Madeira and vanilla.

The Bourbon Matured variant of Balblair’s two Travel Retail expressions of its 2004 vintage is available on a worldwide basis.

Light and delicate on the initial nose, with ripe pear, melon, lemon, watery toffee, and hints of honey and ginger.

Sweet orchard fruits on the palate, with developing cinnamon, coconut, and crème brûlée.

The tell-tale rich honeyed Balvenie personality is spiced up by finishing it off in new charred oak casks, making a normally masculine whisky even bigger.

The honeyed malt impacts the palate first, with intermediate notes of citrus fruit, followed by dried spices (cinnamon, vanilla, ginger, and cocoa).

The new oak impact is most evident on the whisky’s long, dry, spicy finish.

A nice whisky, but perhaps a tad too much new oak for greatness?

Classic honeyed notes combine with vanilla, ripe barley, glazed citrus, apricot marmalade, cinnamon, and nutmeg.

High, bright fruit notes of lemon, mandarin, and mango, with a sprinkling of ginger and powdered vanilla.

Oak kicks in on the end, leading to a fairly dry finish, which is not surprising for a 30 year old whisky.

Notes of peat, smoked mackerel, and suggestions of charcoal married with molasses, vanilla wafer, golden raisin, cantaloupe, and a dollop of honey.

It’s missing the more defined fruit notes that the other two have.

In the same genre as BenRiach 12 year old reviewed below, but more concentrated, with additional notes of resinous oak, light toffee, and soft caramelized pear.

Lush and sweet (the Sauternes impact is obvious), with honey-drenched apricot, sultana, and lemon gum drops.

Vanilla, candied nuts, and subtle botanicals round out the palate.

Decent oak grip on the finish keeps the whisky from being too cloying.

A venerable bottling from its proprietor, and there’s no doubt from the nose that you’re dealing with an ultra-mature whisky.

Like going in to meet your aged grandfather who is sitting in his library surrounded by old books, with a little sunlight filtering through the drapes.

The palate is wooded and concentrated, but it is dry and lacking in the required energy.

The only distillery-approved bottling of Bladnoch in the United States.

When compared to the Gordon & MacPhail bottling above, this one isn’t as sweet or creamy in texture.

Aged for six years in bourbon casks, then aged an additional ten years in Bordeaux wine casks.

Classic Bowmore peat smoke and red berried fruit (raspberry, strawberry) are the main components of this whisky, with additional notes of plum, grape skin tannins, currant, caramel, and marzipan.

Some brine and damp cellar notes emerged occasionally, with the smoke lingering long on the finish.

Rather soft for Bowmore — especially for its age — with a gentle foundation of honey, vanilla, and malt.

Interwoven notes of summer fruit, coconut, lime, and gentle peat, with teasing brine and smoke on the finish.

This one is more challenging than soothing (and quite dry too -- especially on the palate), with dominant red fruit (currant, raspberry, strawberry), plum, baked cinnamon apple, polished leather, bourbon, almonds, and just the hint of smoke and brine.

A departure from the first edition of Bruichladdich 20 year old, and very Glenmorangie-esque-given that it was aged for five weeks in Mourvedre wine casks before being bottled.

The wine influence is evident, both in appearance (a pinkish hue), its palate (berry fruits), and even its nickname ("flirtation").

It is quite a sweet Bruichladdich, with chewy toffee, ripe berries, background pit fruits, and earthy/ resinous spicy notes-especially on the finish.

A Bruichladdich fresh Islay sea breeze character fights its way through, but it is a struggle.

A very fruity “Laddie,” flowing with tangerine, apricot, pineapple and pear.

The typical Bruichladdich fresh, appetizing, brine notes are restrained, emerging ever so subtly on the finish.

A replacement to the original 10 year old, which is now off the market.

A clean, straightforward dram with a lightness and freshness which is very inviting.

Notes of vanilla cream, light caramel, tropical fruit (coconut, pineapple), clementine, pear, and a hint of currant.

Notes of ripe barley, demerara sugar, toasted marshmallow, and sultana, with underlying vanilla and subtle brine emerging on the finish.

Bright, fruity notes of red raspberry, rhubarb, and candy apple.

Teasing fresh brine emerges occasionally, along with citrus, mango, and vanilla.

The second bottling from Bruichladdich in this range shows the ‘traditional‘ side of a distillery that is famed for the variety of its expressions.

This, in other words, is Bruichladdich in its sweet, honeyed, gentle guise partnered with American oak to produce a mashed banana character, an unctuous palate, and a light touch of almond on the finish.

The Micro Provenance series is Bruichladdich’s web-exclusive range of single cask bottlings.

This is made from barley grown on Rockside Farm (now owned by Kilchoman) and has been aged in virgin oak.

The oak doesn’t dominate the nose, allowing fresh cereal sweetness to develop, along with an estery lift and some jasmine/meadowsweet florals.

The palate is where creamy vanilla and white chocolate show through.

Our second Bunna’, this is pale of hue with a surprising hint of salinity alongside a whiff of lemon sherbet, and an aroma like wet linen, while a floury maltiness runs below.

Age however has twisted the fruits into the verge of musty over-ripeness.

It’s explosive and spicy and, even though this is only 46%, it is hot.

Water picks up the acidity before there’s a huge hit of warming ginger as the kiss-off.

Think of melting Mars bars, with a touch of coconut cream, then red-fruit acidity, red cherry, and lemon.

All very forward and sweet, but with no alcohol when neat, showing an active cask.

The palate is thick with Jaffa cake (orange and chocolate), then nutty granola.

The claret adds some bright red fruit notes (raspberry, red currant) and red licorice to accompany the smoke, brine, olive, and vanilla-laced malt.

I have tasted some claret/Bordeaux wood-finished whiskies where the wine was too dominant, but this one achieves a nice balance.

Style: Speyside single malt scotch Color: Pale gold Aroma: Surprisingly fresh and clean.

Very pale in color, suggesting it was aged in a used bourbon cask.

A fairly light, fresh, and appetizing whisky, with notes of brine, mustard seed, and delicate honeyed vanilla.

Aged in bourbon and sherry casks, and then finished off in oloroso sherry casks for two years.

The sherry provides a good measure of lush fruit, brown sugar, and a slick texture on the palate.

The sherry is clean and uncluttered, if somewhat overshadowing the traditional Deanston honeyed malt foundation.

I’m also picking up some burnt marmalade, lemongrass, and ginger.

This 18 year old was matured in refill hogsheads before a period of finishing in first-fill bourbon casks.

The nose is light and fruity with pears, melon, and mild vanilla, plus caramel and a hint of toffee.

Rich and full on the textured palate, with big orchard fruits, honey, buttery spice notes, then emerging aniseed.

Dries in the finish, with plain chocolate and slightly tannic oak notes, plus a sprinkling of chili heat.

A mouth-coating -- almost chewy -- Glen Elgin, chock full of toffee, nut paste, heather-honey, and a hint of milk chocolate.

The richness is brightened with ginger and mandarin orange, making for a pleasurable, soothing experience.

I don’t normally like to add water to old whiskies, but this one needs a little at this strength.

Whether you will like this whisky or not depends on whether you like woody whiskies with lots of sherry, and whether you care at all about recognizing the distillery character.

The flavors are nicely balanced, rich, and very soothing in nature, but I struggle to find Glen Grant in here.

Ripe fallen fruit, chewy toffee, maple syrup, honey-glazed almonds, damp oak resins-it’s all there, and it’s all balanced and quite entertaining.

I personally want to taste the distillery character in my whisky.

If that didn’t matter to me, I would have given this whisky a higher score.

Like many older Glen Grant offerings, this one is from a sherry cask.

The sherry, and the long oak aging, transforms what is normally a light and easy drinking whisky to a more serious affair.

Ripe, heavy fruit dominate the palate-the sherry is very evident here, but it is not cloying.

The oak balances the sherry notes very nicely, and the whisky is clean and uncomplicated throughout, all the way through to its finish.

As this is slightly closed when neat, you have to search for Glen Grant’s classic apple notes behind a tense nose which, even with water, remains inward-looking.

Thankfully, this changes on the tongue with pure, very linear (typical of GG) flavors of cool mint, cucumber, basil, and yes, apple.

Easy-going from a relaxed cask, but with more substance than you’d expect.

Oloroso Finish has spent 16 months gaining additional maturation in oloroso casks.

The use of sherry wood has lent the nose a greater sweetness, with vanilla, dates, apples, and cinnamon.

Floral, spicy notes, with toffee, ginger, and sweet sherry on the palate, giving extra body and resonance.

The fruity finish is of medium length, with mixed spices and white pepper.

A 22 year old Glencadam; maturation took place in a refill American oak hogshead.

The nose offers rich honey and malt notes, though slightly balsamic.

Relatively long and spicy in the finish, with chili, though honey persists right to the end.

An interesting whisky, with flavor notes I wouldn’t normally find together-golden raisins, green grapes, plum, citrus tang, fresh ginger, almonds, and a hint of mint leaves, all wrapped by a pleasing maltiness with underlying notes of vanilla custard.

Many of the Glendronachs (especially from the distillery) are sherried.

Some of the sherried versions, like the 33 year old, are excellent.

I’m glad they bottled it when they did though, as any additional oak dryness would be detrimental.

You have to look hard to find its spark and fire, but if you search for it, it is there.

The nose is light and savory, with crushed fall leaves and chestnut on the nose.

On the palate, there are traces of licorice stick, a touch of cumin, anise, and a creamier, less bitter chocolate note than some other samples.

It finishes with traces of mandarin, but overall the sun is setting and the spirited and energetic man of old seems to be getting bitter.

This is the most seasonal of this batch of GlenDronachs, with a nose of rich stewed prunes and fermenting fruit in an orchard at harvest time.

There is some anise and cherry lozenge in the mix, too, and the palate is complex, with plums, stewed fruits, and damson jam.

Clean, fragrant, and quite fruity, with notes of tangerine, lemon, pineapple, and kiwi.

There's a creamy-almost oily-vanilla maltiness on the palate that binds the fruit together.

This was named after a number of the distillery’s warehouse roofs collapsed under the weight of snow in 2010.

This was a bottling of a selection of casks — ex-sherry, ex-bourbon, refill — from one of those damaged warehouses.

It is gentle and sweet — cooked pear, fruit crumble topped with rolled oats, golden syrup, and on the palate hints of raisin.

A lemon finish adds a freshness to a dangerously drinkable dram.

A 15 year old Glen Garioch which is unique as the first from the distillery to be fully matured in French Bordeaux wine casks.

The casks in question are tonneaux de vin rouge from Saint-Julien, and distillation took place on June 23, 1998.

Sweet berries on the early nose, with milk chocolate, ginger, and spicy oak.

Malt, ginger, plums, and honey on the rich palate, while the long finish offers spicy malt and honey.

Don’t add any water to this whisky, as its flavors seem to crumble.

It’s a subtle whisky too -- one has to tease the flavors out of it.

But when you do, with some focus, you’ll find fragrant notes of dried spice, malty vanilla, citrus peal, and elegant floral notes.

Surprisingly, the whisky is not overly dry and woody on the palate.

The initial impression of this whisky is that it’s too tired and past its prime.

With continued exploration and patience, its subtle pleasures emerge.

Notes of fresh cut grass, vanilla, bright lemon, and cinnamon, with a soft malt underbelly.

So many people (myself included) would rather have seen Rosebank as the Lowland representative of the Classic Malts than Glenkinchie.

Its deep amber/ruby color suggests a lot of sherry, and one whiff confirms.

The whisky is rich and sappy in texture, with lush notes of ripe sherry fruit balanced by dry, mature spicy oak.

There’s a pleasant soothing texture to the whisky too, but I do struggle to find the subtle complexities which make some bottlings of Glenlivet so special.

The youngest of the quintet has been aged in refill sherry hogsheads, but the coconut that immediately assails the nostrils suggests they were made from American oak.

Alongside this is the distillery’s signature pineapple note which sits under a scented, floral lift.

The finish is a mix of night-scented stocks, custard, and green apple.

Bottling of a large package of 12 butts and 30 hoggies dating from 1972.

The nose is slightly closed initially, but shows good mature distillery character: old apple, potpourri, more raspberry, and furniture polish.

The palate is a little dry, with humidor and light chocolate, but needs water to bring out the fruit-sugar sweetness.

It’s good, but that low bottling strength has sapped it of the energy which is vital for old whiskies.

The aim here was to recreate the style of malt made by George Smith, but rather than running peated malt, Chivas Bros. has aged the spirit in Islay casks (not what George would have done).

On the upside, this is a classic Nadurra: estery fruits with pineapple to the fore, freesia, pear, and fresh apple, the smoke giving subtle gun-flint notes to the palate.

low-level sweet spices mixing with lightly oxidized fruits.

That said, it needs
coriander is uppermost.

All in all, this is Rothes in very approachable rather
than dynamic guise.

Principally matured in bourbon casks, this expression has undergone a finishing period in sherry casks.

Sweet wood polish on the nose, with brief pineapple juice notes and rosehip syrup.

Smooth and fruity on the palate, with vanilla, spicy milk chocolate, sultanas, and some earthiness.

The finish is medium in length, with sherry and a tang of bitter orange.

Pleasant aroma (subtle, but with nice depth), with notes of honeyed lime, kiwi, chopped nuts, chocolate fudge, and gentle, seasoned tobacco.

Everything is working nicely on the palate too, with a similar flavor profile (the nuts now being roasted) and some smoldering smoke, until about mid-palate, when its age becomes evident with some wet wood notes blending in the mix through to the finish.

Named after the Viking chieftain whose exploits are central to the Orkneyinga Saga, Svein is the least typically Highland Park of the initial three Warrior releases.

The nose is oily, with starch and ozone, then ultimately freshly-squeezed orange and lemon juice.

Nutty and slightly peppery in the finish, with just a suggestion of peat.

Originally exclusive to the Swedish market, this expression was selected by Highland Park’s Danish brand ambassador Martin Markvardsen.

Matured in a combination of 70% bourbon barrels and 30% oloroso sherry casks.

Waxy and malty on the early nose, with fresh earth, damp moss, vanilla, and honey.

Gentle peat on the palate, more earthy notes; herbal, with lime and salt.

The finish is quite short, showing apricots, slight peatiness, allspice.

The news that there’s a new distillery being built on the Imperial site is something to be celebrated.

One hopes that the new plant makes whisky of the same character as the old, because Imperial is a classic single malt which is about fragrance (here pineapple and toasted marshmallows) and a clinging, seductive, cream soda quality.

This is a touch rigid, but that’s a minor criticism of a gorgeous dram.

Silky and sweet on the palate, with tinned pears and pineapple, plus developing toffee and oak.

The finish is quite long, with persistent ginger, drying slightly.

Typically pale and slightly broader than in previous years, with a little more fleshiness that rubs alongside squid ink and white pepper.

Huge smoke mingles with the sharp tang of brine and a touch of bran.

There’s little oak getting in the way of the distillery character here and while water settles the waves, it just doesn’t have the extra dimension that elevates the decent to the great.

It’s packed with ripe, sweet barley (especially at the palate entry).

There are some high citrus fruit notes and anise that emerge before the signature Laphroaig peat smoke and tar wallops you.

Great to see Ledaig hitting its stride, with a brisk punch of peat and not chill-filtered.

There’s a bit of a raw edge too, quite bracing but still plenty of soothing sweetness.

Earthy peat smoke, ripe barley, honeyed vanilla, bourbon barrel char, black licorice stick, espresso bean, olive brine, and suggestions of beef jerky.

In some respects, it even tastes younger than 10 years old, but I’m balancing that with bonus points for distinctiveness.

Spicy and botanical on the nose, with notes of ginger, juniper, lemon grass, orange, and grapefruit rind.

Similar follow-through on the palate, with added notes of vanilla, honeyed malt, and hay.

Certainly some interesting -- perhaps even peculiar -- flavors from this product of the demolished Lowland distillery.

A catch-up rather than a new release, but a fascinating contrast to the 14 year old Flora & Fauna bottling.

Yes, there’s apple blossom, but here there’s more medlar, fruit syrups, raspberry, and an intriguing play between vanilla and lightly oxidized nuttiness.

Linkwood’s substance is shown on the palate, where an oily feel adds texture to the lush dried fruits and saffron-led spiciness.

The nose is malty, with the oiliness of figs, plus dates and tinned peaches.

Supple on the palate, with vanilla, honey, and spicy resin notes.

The finish is medium in length, warming, and slightly herbal, with nutmeg and malt.

More fruit on the palate-soft in texture and gently sweet-with interwoven fresh spice notes and a pleasing rounded finish.

I was concerned that there would be too much young whisky in here (like there was with the Springbank C.V. several years ago), but this isn’t the case.

Creamy, sweeter vanilla notes up front, with kiln smoke, sea-soaked stone, tar, anise, chocolate fudge, and apricot.

I would like to see more of the older whisky in here, because it leans towards the young side, but it is still a vibrant, enjoyable whisky.

A nicely clean Longmorn, expressing floral notes (especially violets) and bright fruit (lemon, lime, cantelope, plums), supported interwoven notes of honey, rich malt, bread pudding, dates and vanilla.

The classic Longmorn viscosity is there, and this thickness is tamed by a very pleasing spicy, dry oak finish, with a hint of salt.

Longmorn is one of Speyside’s fruit bombs, something which remains true here, even if in slightly paler guise than usual.

Instead of ripe autumn fruits, here you get kiwi, William pear, green plum, even green tomato, and a faint blossom reminiscent of the almond notes of sakura (cherry blossom).

I’d keep water well away, such is this light, lacy Longmorn’s fragility.

Oak-driven, with cream and butterscotch dominating the nose initially.

The palate is all coconut cream, cream toffee, then Longmorn’s cooked plum density comes in.

I’d have preferred the oak to be scaled back, allowing the distillate to show, but if you’re looking for a scotch made for bourbon lovers, then go no further.

Very fragrant -- fruity and spicy -- with notes of vanilla, lemongrass, ginger, sultana, citrus zest, key lime, and green grapes.

A nicely honeyed malty foundation is balanced by fruit on the front of the palate, with a pleasingly dry, spicy finish.

It would benefit by being bottled at 43%, like the older two expressions.

It is simple, straight-forward, and unpretentious, as one would expect in a 10 year old whisky.

Oily in texture, with ripe barley, front-loaded toffee, honey-drenched citrus, fallen orchard fruit, and a full complement of spice (cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove).

The flavors don’t meld together here as well as the other three expressions, but it’s still a fun ride.

With the hue of pigeon blood (a ruby, not a dead bird), initially this seems closed, but richness develops, mixing stewed Assam tea, chocolate biscuit, raisin, damson jam, and a whiff of tomato puree.

A knife and fork are needed to consume it, but for all the big tannins, there’s dark rose petal and the bittersweet edge of licorice.

Soft fruits are to the fore here; think of cooking green plums, fruit syrup, a hint of sultana to add to the sweetness, and then a hint of beeswax.

There’s even a little of Macallan’s occasional earthiness, here akin to the damp sand floor of a sherry bodega.

This is the transition point in the range with a similar weight to Gold but greater sweetness and the beginnings of Macallan’s mysterious savory edge.

Clean with the warming, sensual aroma of yeasty freshness that you get from freshly-baked bread.

The palate shows that it has substance behind this very open nose.

Here is thickness, tongue-clinging oils, and a vibrant lemon note bringing to mind boiled travel sweets, before the dry maltiness comes through.

With water — and it’s best lightly diluted — we’re looking at pastries.

Bottled at 350 ml as a pair with a Spanish oak version (and probably sold out at source), here you get the merest glimpse of Macallan’s meatiness (shepherd’s pie) before flowers and apple blossom take charge.

Water brings out cereal and mealy pudding, with barley sugar on the end.

The Darkness! series involves finishing in specially-made octave (50-liter) casks.

This has positive Macallan character with some oil (putty even) and touches of malt and turned earth, but also a scented, cognac-like fruitiness with added spice.

The palate shows some nutty, oxidized flavors to begin with, but then in the middle the PX flumps onto the tongue, slowing and dampening the drive.

One in a trio from Chivas Bros., who every year release limited editions of 500 ml cask strength bottlings from a selection of its estates.

Miltonduff was licensed in 1824, and these days is also an important blender’s malt with a little more oily depth than its neighbor, Glenburgie.

This has a deep floral bouquet — think iris and lily — and aromatic fruits like quince.

The fruity character is dominant in the mouth and becomes more tropical; there’s even some coconut on the finish.

A sweet whisky with a honeyed malt and creamy vanilla foundation, a mélange of tropical fruit (mandarin, lime, pineapple), and soft oak on the finish.

Pleasant enough, but I wish the flavors were crisper, cleaner, and more well-defined.

Appetizingly fresh and briny on the palate, with underlying notes of hay, lime, vanilla-tinged malt, and a hint of seaweed on the finish.

A marriage of whiskies from bourbon, sherry, and port casks, which does help give it some complexity.

A bit fleshy on the nose (sooty peat, soy sauce, sherry, tannins).

It calms down on the palate (and is soothed by the sherry notes), with some additional vanilla, bitter orange, and brine.

There’s a lot going on here, which I like, but I’m not sure all the flavors dovetail with each other well enough to deserve a higher rating.

Quite fruity, with prominent honey-tinged citrus peel, nutty toffee, nougat, and vanilla fudge, leading to a gripping, firm, dry oak resin finish.

This is Tomatin’s first cask strength offering, and is also non-chill filtered.

The initial batch of 15,000 bottles was released in February, and was matured in a mix of oloroso and bourbon casks.

The nose showcases ginger, malt, Jaffa oranges, almonds, and melon, while the pleasingly viscous palate offers caramel, vanilla, warm leather, and chocolate-coated lime creams.

There’s soft barley sweetness, notes of vanilla and orange creamsicle.

An ideal aperitif, but could be enjoyed anytime between dawn and dinner.

Whoever said whisky was an after-dinner drink never tasted this whisky.

John Black is the veteran master distiller at Tullibardine distillery, and this is the sixth release to bear his name.

The single malt in question was matured in bourbon barrel #10,002.

Progressively more floral, parma violets, pear drops, a hint of cinnamon, and milk chocolate in time.

Hazelnuts and allspice on the palate, while citrus fruits emerge, plus more milk chocolate and a suggestion of cloves.

Tullibardine 228 Burgundy is finished in red Burgundy casks from Chateau de Chassagne Montrachet, the home of Maison Michel Picard, which owns Tullibardine distillery.

The nose features charred oak, vanilla, milk chocolate-covered Turkish Delight, and mild, sweet chili.

Sweet and spicy on the nutty palate, with eating apples, cranberries, and a silky texture.

Matured in first-fill bourbon casks for an unspecified period, Sovereign offers a nose that is floral with new-mown hay, vanilla, and soft fudge.

Fruity on the palate, with milk chocolate, malt, and subtle cinnamon.

Not as nimble as the Speyside expression below, but with flavors that linger.

Rummy toffee notes, roasted nuts, earthy moss, jammy fruit, teasingly subtle black strap molasses, and clove.

Cragganmore is a whisky that typically needs time before it starts to get going and which then goes through many changes on its journey to its complex, layered apogee.

The nose is fragrant and fruity: apricots, stewed apple, and yes, lemon; and, with water, a hint of smoke.

The palate meanwhile shows more of the earthy depth and sloe berry richness that will slowly emerge.

Light gold with a very fresh and slightly ozonic nose that brings to mind Thai herbs: lemongrass, galangal, as well as lime.

Water cuts down this razor-sharp intensity, adding a softer mid-palate texture, while the finish remains slightly mineraly.

Yes, it’s another 1991 Bunna from Wemyss, so check the name when purchasing.

This one has a distinctly smoky element alongside the marine note which they both share.

Very light lemon, with water, then a hit that’s like walking into a high-class sushi joint.

A zesty start with lots of angelica, and then sweetness with, when diluted, soft malt and light ginger on the palate.

Unusually, Wemyss Malts simultaneously offered two single cask bottlings of Clynelish in October 2014, both distilled in 1997 and matured in hogsheads.

The nose is sweet and fruity, with green apples and chocolate mousse.

Slightly oily on the palate, with black pepper, salt, and orchard fruits.

Persistently peppery in the finish, with citrus fruit, oak, a hint of brine, and cocoa.

Vermouth-like: dark fruits, a hint of spice, light oxidation, with some herbal edges and Morello cherries.

The palate is highly concentrated, with more cherry, but has this intense savory astringency.

The nose continues to be remarkable, all damask rose and resin, but dilution can’t eradicate the mouth-puckering quality.

This NAS version is a little smokier than before, with ground pepper, toasted coriander and fennel seeds, and a dusting of nutmeg.

The mouthfeel is light initially; early orange and lime flavors are extinguished quickly.

Warm cocoa, malt, chocolate shavings, black cherry, raspberry bubblegum, and concentrated dark fruits complement restrained spices and faint smoke, followed by a hot, spicy cinnamon finish.

It’s pretty decent, but the palate doesn’t quite match up to the promise of the nose.

I’m playfully perplexed as to whether the titular “vintage” refers to an elderly strawberry or an aged punnet.

Undaunted, this example from the Highland powerhouse noses much better than promised with fresh mint, small, tight strawberry buds, sandy loam, and a saccharine sweetness.

It has a sweet, syrupy, fat flavor, in turn revealing caramel, buttery notes, white chocolate, vanilla, and black currant.

This year’s bottling mixes 4 and 5 year old bourbon casks with the younger element finished in oloroso, though this is hardly sherried.

Here is smoke, samphire, and Kilchoman’s fleshy core giving echoes of 80s cuisine: scallops and white peaches anyone?

The palate is sweet, sour, and smoky, with a chalky edge and a peppery palate, but water releases blossom and a little gunsmoke: a duel in the dunes?

A distillate of Islay-grown barley, made in 2009-10 and aged in bourbon wood.

Here’s an intense Kilchoman with a licorice root sweetness mixed with dried seaweed, machair (beach pasture), cereal, and herbal smoke.

The palate is slightly oily and hot when neat, with a distinct mineral edge.

Water shows its youth but also allows tarragon and wormwood to develop.

This 2012 limited edition from the Deeside distillery of Royal Lochnagar underwent initial maturation in bourbon barrels before a period of finishing in muscat wine casks.

The pleasing nose offers pears poached in dessert wine, heather, malt, and ginger.

Rich and rounded on the palate, with immediate soft, ripe peaches, then figs, ginger, and cloves.

Tarry rope, leafy bonfire, rooty peat, burnt licorice, smoked seaweed, coal ash, and vanilla-tinged malt, all with emerging brine, subtle Spanish olive, and a hint of ginger.

A robust, yet well-rounded, Islay-style whisky with a pleasing oily texture, though I do wish it had a higher strength for a little more attitude.

Bananas in cream, honey-kissed citrus (lime, clementine), papaya, mango, a hint of coconut, green tea, and gentle vanilla.

Distinctive, but I could tire of it sooner than the others here.

Ripe barley and malty up front, ultimately transitioning to a clinging dryness towards the finish.

Notes of vanilla cream, toasted coconut, marshmallow, cut grass, honeydew melon, and lemon/lime.

I think a marriage of both types of cask would add more dimension and complexity.

Clean, simple, and straightforward: malty and smooth, with cut grass, hay, a kiss of honey, and a hint of gin botanicals.

A nice whisky to introduce blend drinkers to the world of single malts.

The Famous Grouse has been extended in various directions with varying degrees of success but for my money, this is the best and most logical.

This is the version where the smoky, oily, spicy, and peaty notes of the original blend are brought more to the fore, but this works because married to it are grape and melon notes that ensure the Grouse lands softly.

An unfairly overlooked malt simply because of its (too low) price.

The use of more active casks here gives an almost waxed crayon nose, along with some sweet depth.

In time, there are fresh green fruits, raspberry mousse, and beautiful floral intensity.

The palate is clean and quite light, but there’s a pool of fruits in the center giving a focal point.

Diageo’s Singleton range is its answer to the problem of how to build a global single malt brand when each distillery will ultimately be limited by its capacity.

A single brand: ‘Singleton,’ but from three distilleries, each focused on a different area of the world.

Singleton of Dufftown is Europe’s expression, and this 15 year old combines cake mix, peanut butter, and fleshy fruits.

There’s dried banana and vanilla on the palate, and a nutty sweet finish.

The U.S. Singleton comes from Glendullan, a distillery that makes a sweet, light spirit.

Here, a percentage has been aged in ex-sherry casks, which has added a layer of fruity sweetness — think port-like sloe notes, Muscatel, and wisteria.

The wood is lightly handled, allowing the aromas full rein on the palate.

One in the trio of age-stated Singleton of Glen Ords, this 18 year old has a nose of sultanas, hazelnuts, sherry, vanilla, and a note of pine.

Silky on the full palate, with vanilla, milk chocolate, sherry, and caramel.

Glendullan has reimagined itself with a trio of Travel Retail exclusives.

This, the most expensive, has been given some secondary maturation in Muscat wine casks.

It’s the most complex of the trio, with more citric elements, hints of hay, and some spice, while the richness and dried scented fruit of the Muscat is a good accompaniment to the sloe-like side of the distillery character.

A thick vanilla component helps the palate along to a chocolatey finish.

A tasty example from the historic North British distillery in Edinburgh, with a bouquet of vanilla, sweet hay, and mint ice cream.

A sip made me nostalgic for childhood candies such as sherbet-filled, fizzy flying saucers and prohibited ivory-white candy sticks.

I was seized by the initial lemon zing of acidic tartness, which becomes creamier before a richer, candied peel taste appears.

A light golden dram from a refill hoggie, redolent of fragrant honey, custard slices, orange water, perfumed soaps, and fresh spring blossom.

Vanilla, dried peel, and shortbread petticoat tails on the palate, that develops with spun sugar flavors.

The whole concoction is anchored by a little oak, but the cask has been gentle.

The finish is mouth-drawing, but settles down like a well-sucked butterscotch.

this has a depth to it that you need to look for.

At first it’s all Laphroaig, and the peat and sea burst out of the glass.

But just as you’re asking yourself what the point is, the fruity notes of the Mortlach cushion the whole landing and let you down gently.

Molten blossom honey, almond milk puddings, and Parma violets interlaced with a fine, drifting chimney smoke compose the nose of this new blend from William Grant & Sons.

Smooth, burnished orange and honey cough drops initially, then the flavor develops through more pronounced citrus and gentle spices to achieve a sweeter climax.

The finish is long, more beeswax than honey, the sweetness finally depleted.

A spicier character to represent 1920s Bombay (now Mumbai) yields an intriguing nose of cumin, dried apple, cardamom, and roasted coriander seed, walnut shells, dry meat from the tandoor, and aged cigars in Spanish cedar.

A rather gluey texture with a dominant cinnamon note, interjected by spicy fruit from the European oak and gentle cloves.

A short finish leaves a reverberation of spices and chicory root.

The aromas are wonderful, but it comes unstuck with the mouthfeel.

Rose petals, pomegranate, toasted coriander seeds, and glacé cherry mix it up with a tangle of Bramley apple peelings.

Water knocks the fiery ginger out, but quells this Loch Lomond to a duller spice profile.

A finish of ground almond, subdued gingerbread, and active spices.

It’s surprisingly not that hot initially, rather there are hints of soft orchard fruits, gentle smoke, and seashells.

With water, the fruits show up—mango and peach—but the alcohol is still masking things.

Water goes in immediately to produce a palate that is cool, slightly sweet, with seashore notes, wet stones, and those fruits, but there’s still a real tension to the whole experience.

This 17 year old refill hogshead-matured expression of Dalmore was distilled in May 1997, and 237 bottles have been released.

It is an interesting example of Dalmore uncut, without the proprietary sherry maturation-spin usually put on it.

The nose is sweet, with caramel, tinned peaches and pineapple, and a smearing of honey.

Zesty spices open the palate, which becomes nutty, with Jaffa oranges, gingery oak, and dark chocolate.

Long and warming in the finish, with more oak and plain chocolate.

Performs much better in the mouth, and although hot, shows good distillery character with some cooked peach, quince jam, and yellow plums.

This 10 year old peated expression from Tobermory distillery on Mull was matured in a single refill hogshead and bottled in January 2016.

Medicine chests, sweet smoke, ginger, and apple on the nose, with damp earth.

The palate provides a big hit of peaty spice, seaweed, black pepper, ginger, and dark berries.

Becoming slightly bitter in the drying, ashy, medium-length finish.

Sweet top notes of brioche loaf with baking spices, but there are savory flavors of pastrami bark lurking deep in the glass.

Flavors of golden syrup and butterscotch unfurl beautifully from within the thick texture at cask strength.

Roasted spices explode, but as it dilutes, stewed fruits and sucked boiled candy notes are found.

Water emphasizes confectionary elements and purple fruits, but kills the spices stone dead.

The nose is extraordinarily yeasty, with distinct apple cider backed by light caramel.

The palate is more integrated than the nose with oak and cinnamon spice, apple, honey, and malt.

At first these flavors are well balanced, but a spice and heat blast in the mid-palate throws things off.

The parts are better than the whole in an interesting and strong whisky.

Bottled at 8 years of age as part of Exclusive Malts’ U.S. Batch 5, this is a relatively youthful expression of the peated Ledaig spirit produced at Tobermory distillery.

The nose is full-on and vibrant, with seaweed, brine, peat, black pepper, and new leather.

The palate opens with a big punch of spicy peat, then sweet cereal notes and more black pepper.

Hot smoke and spice in the medium-length finish, with a hint of coal.

Matured solely in refill sherry casks, this whisky has a light, fruit-forward nose with nectarine, honey, malt, and a touch of spice.

The entry is softer than you’d expect for the proof and it presents the fruit at the nose, along with salt and a dash of black pepper.

The spice takes over in the mid-palate along with some heat, really throwing off the balance established in the entry.

A light finish closes out a slightly disjointed taste experience.

Matured in refill, remade American hogsheads, this 1998 bottling from Tobermory on the Isle of Mull is of the peated Ledaig variant.

The nose offers dry peat, brown wrapping paper, fish oil, and wood preservative.

Oily on the palate, with bitter orange, sweet peat, ginger, and black pepper, plus fabric band-aids.

This single cask from Macduff distillery was distilled in 1997 and is offered non-chill filtered and with natural color.

Melons, lemon, a hint of ozone, and a suggestion of warm steel on the nose.

The palate is supple and fruity, with ginger, white pepper, and developing vanilla notes.

This batch of 1,420 bottles was created with slightly older malts, a 16 year old grain from a refill hogshead and a 14 year old Lowland malt disgorged from an Islay cask.

Sugar mice, dried hay, sharpened pencils, hints of lemon, with subtle smoke like the burning of a distant stubble field.

Sweet cereal notes, black pepper, and ginger parkin build to a conclusion of Brazil nut, mocha, and chocolate ganache.

Playing on regional styles, this blends six single malts representative of the Speyside, Islay, Lowland, Campbeltown, Islands, and Highland whisky regions.

Sun-dried peats greet the nose with aromas of stewed apples, flaky pastries, apricot conserve, vanilla, and cinnamon.

Creamy vanilla and coconut flavors develop, with a slow-burn spiciness crackling in the center of the tongue.

Seville orange and caramel cookie flavors escort a long finish of dry, tingling spices, though it could use a little more heft in the mouthfeel.

An 18 year old single malt for just $33 should set alarm bells ringing.

But this sherry-finished Kirkland expression from an undisclosed distillery is definitely a decent dram at a bargain-basement price.

Initially slightly vegetal and earthy on the nose, developing a warm leatheriness, with sherry, figs, melon skin, and caramel.

Silky on the palate, with milk chocolate, emerging hazelnuts, sweet sherry, and honey.

The finish is medium in length, with spicy orange and mocha coffee notes.

The eldest son of the 5th earl of Wemyss, Lord Elcho was supportive to the Young Pretender.

Plum skin, chunky raisins, blackcurrant, and fainter sweetened cocoa and coffee bean notes.

The palate is a little hollow at first, then proffers barley sugar, rich shortbread, baked apple, linseed, and toffee, though the flavor development plateaus.

Given the choice of expressions, I prefer the vibrancy of the Young(er)

Earthy peat, brine, vanilla, cereal, and a hint of cinnamon on the confident nose.

Lively in the mouth, with nutty spices and pipe tobacco, while peat briefly takes a back seat before reasserting itself.

Slabs of plain chocolate, Kendal mint cake, vanilla essence, and malt with a dry, dusty character makes this suggest itself for an after-dinner occasion.

The palate is very sweet; sugarplum, caramelized brown sugar, flapjacks, bramble, and pink rhubarb before it finally coagulates into a thick Horlicks maltiness.

There’s an impressive trajectory of flavor here, though the mouthfeel is nothing special and dilution doesn’t enhance it to any real degree.

A stunningly lovely nose: all sweet, rounded, and layered with exotic tropical fruits, scented woods, wax, and perfume.

Sadly though, the oak has taken charge on the palate, making it more grippy and nutty.

John Dewar & Sons Ltd has released a 12 year old bottling from its Macduff distillery, formerly marketed as Glen Deveron, but now simply known as the Deveron.

Soft, sweet, and fruity on the nose, with vanilla, ginger, ripe peaches, and apple blossom.

Medium-bodied, gently spicy, with butterscotch and Brazil nuts before a hint of licorice kicks in.

Quite dry spicy oak in the finish, with a contrasting note of caramel.

Hunter Laing blended this grand Highland whisky: an 85% malt-driven recipe of more mature stock.

I liked its aromas of dripping caramels, dry peats, soft hay, and faint pepper balancing the resilient smoky character.

The blend is smooth and well-textured, beginning with sugared orange, malt, vanilla, and toasted spices which glide into clove and black pepper.

The drying finish has spicy pepper, ground ginger, and lasting citrus.

This refill barrel is perhaps more suited to those well versed in drinking grains regularly.

The nose is herbal, with tarragon, endive leaves, and artichoke hearts, though there is balance from oat biscuits and honey.

The palate begins clean and pure, builds complexity with vegetal notes and honey sweetness before delivering flavors of dates, nougat, wheat crackers, and dry, toasted spices.

Matured in a mix of Spanish and American oak quarter casks previously used by an Islay distillery.

The nose is soft and belies its youth, offering vanilla, lemon, ginger, and light smoke.

Sweeter fruit notes soon develop with more vanilla and ginger, plus white pepper.

Distilled in 2008 from barley peated to 167 ppm and matured in virgin French oak casks.

Sweet smoke and oak on the initial nose, with quite assertive spices.

Slightly earthy on the palate, where big spice notes continue with peaches, orange, and milk chocolate.

The finish is relatively long, with cloves, licorice, ginger, and chili.

Very citric, sweet candied orange and tangerine marmalade, with a hint of pink grapefruit.

The palate is equally delicate and ‘up,’ and quite acidic (no bad thing) with light, nutty chocolate and macadamia nut.

Emma Walker that is, the blender whose signature adorns the first of these experimental expressions.

Toffee Speyside nose, digestive biscuits, cinnamon, cool mint, and a pronounced grain note from Port Dundas.

Orange, lime peel, lovely caramel richness, and creamy toffee through dilution.

The brand’s second consecutive rye cask finish: you noticed too?

Up against its sibling, JW Select Rye Cask, there are certain similarities, but this is fruitier, less intricate, and less rich and spicy.

Fresh and floral, with lively tropical fruit, honey, and vanilla.

Gentle on the palate, with a slight syrupy texture to its malty foundation.

Lemon-lime gum drops and fresh-cut grass notes, with an underlying creamy, marshmallow-tinged maltiness.

The sherry, extra aging, and higher strength produce an intensely rich Auchentoshan.

Fudgy caramel, toffee and cocoa notes are offset by golden raisin, apricot, and Clementine.

Underlying notes of roasted nuts, old leather, and spice (vanilla, mint) peek through occasionally.

An enjoyable whisky, but much of the Auchentoshan is lost somewhere in all that oak and sherry.

Another Travel Retail exclusive, but what is a highly lucrative retail sector will inevitably demand items that shoppers can’t buy elsewhere.

Imagine Balvenie Port Wood 21 year old, but with more sweetness; damson jam, blueberries, and a slight singed note before maple syrup calls in from the back.

It’s big and rounded and, for me, just lacking the definition and complexity of the Port Wood.

Initially mulch and damp undergrowth on the nose, with a whiff of sulfur.

Then developing soft toffee and vanilla notes, though the ‘outdoors’ odor remains.

Oak, citrus fruit, hazelnuts, and spices, plus a hint of gunpowder tea.

Medium to long in the finish, with more oak, ginger, and quite bitter coffee.

Another Benrinnes from the UK bottler’s new range, here the finish is more forceful, with masses of raisined sweetness, blueberry syrup, and molasses.

The Benrinnes character adds weight and a firm earthy base, but this is more cask driven, slightly grippy, and for all the richness of the PX cask, the end result is a little bitter because of the treacle/molasses note.

Challenging notes of creosote, charred oak, and earthy peat fire dominate, with underlying ripe barley, honey, and caramel apple.

This cask-strength whisky turns cloudy with the addition of water.

Nice balance of both moderate sherry and smoke, with underlying fruit gum drops, shortbread, charcoal, black licorice, and subtle herbs.

The flavors aren’t as crisp as I would like, but pretty good for seven years old.

Maturation for this 21 year old bottling of Bladnoch occurred in a refill American oak hogshead.

Sweet orchard fruits, new-mown hay, malt, and soft toffee on the nose.

The palate is initially fruity, with more malt, then nuttiness develops, with aniseed and black pepper.

Light and very creamy, with very subtle smoke in the background, this is like eating a white chocolate ice cream while walking toward a distant beach barbecue.

The palate is gentle and sweet with good, refreshing saline balance.

Thicker, more viscous, and with much more depth than the other three Bruichladdichs reviewed here.

The whisky oozes syrupy vanilla, marshmallow, caramel, and marzipan, accentuated by coconut and other tropical fruits.

Bruichladdich's signature freshness and brine emerges, but oh, so subtly.

It finishes firmly dry and oaky, thanks to all those years in wood.

Initially this helps to cut some of the sweetish viscosity of this whisky, but it lingers a bit too long for my palate.

I would like to have tried this whisky a few (or perhaps even several) years back.

The most heavily peated of the three (35ppm phenol), but rather gentle for such smoke intensity.

No doubt this is partly due to its sweet underbelly of vanilla cream puff, honeyed barley, and melon fruit.

The other factor is that the smoke influence is not medicinal like some other Islay whiskies, but rather more of a leafy bonfire smoke, with burning embers and teasing brine on the finish.

Using this ancient barley variety is a challenge for a distiller.

The yields are low, the mash thick and hard to work, but I’m delighted that Bruichladdich has persevered.

It adds a more overt cereal note to the whisky, taking the Laddie off into a different world of honey-nut corn flakes.

It’s young, so add water to cut its more, er, bracing qualities.

Notes of smoked olives and an earthy peatiness wrapped inside layers of sweetness (honey, caramel and light toffee).

The whisky is laced with seaweed and pepper for added zest, with a long smoky and peppery finish.

It shows enough maturity, yet it is young enough to let the true Caol Ila character shine through.

I would like to have seen this whisky bottled at a higher strength and not chill-filtered.

The tell-tale orange marmalade combines notes of orchard fruit, caramel apple, fried pineapple, banana nut bread, unsweetened chocolate, grape skin, and plain toast, peppered with cinnamon and ground espresso bean.

Distinctive and evolving on the palate -- and humming along quite nicely -- until the oak turns a bit austere and aggressive on the finish.

This 1995 vintage is exclusively available from Whisky Shop in the UK.

The whisky was selected by distillery manager Ian Mackay and his team, and matured in Matusalem sherry and American white oak casks.

The finish is slowly drying, with dark chocolate and smoky caramel notes.

Remarkably pale in color, this Exclusive Malt is a rare peated Dalmore.

Peat reads more funky barnyard than smoke on the nose, with just a touch of sweetness behind it.

The taste is much better than the smell, with the addition of smoke to the peat, intertwined with honey, salt, citrus, and ginger spice.

The finish is slightly acidic and dry, far less satisfying than the mid-palate.

There’s a reason why Dalmore doesn’t peat, but this release is still fascinating.

Initial maturation of Valour takes place in first-fill bourbon casks, before a period in 30 year old Matusalem oloroso sherry butts from Gonzales Byass.

Finally it is transferred to port pipes from the Duoro region of Portugal.

The nose is floral, with sherry notes, ripe oranges, and marzipan, while the palate offers dark sherry, with bitter orange, contrasting chocolate-coated fudge, and gingersnaps.

The finish is medium to long, with lively spices and berry bitterness.

Bottling at a higher proof without chill-filtering has improved the whisky, amplifying its subtle flavors.

The flavors are bright and fresh, with notes of citrus, pineapple, lemongrass, and subtle ginger, all on a bed of clean honeyed malt, light toffee and soft vanilla.

Finished in virgin oak casks, so I would expect to find some wood influence here somewhere.

There’s no age statement, but on the nose it comes across as a bit youthful.

Honeyed vanilla, lemon, pear, fresh-cut grass, and wood shavings on the nose.

More of the same on the palate, with sweet notes to the fore, and virgin oak influence (wood shavings, polished leather, and a firm oak grip).

Very individualistic, but the flavors don’t seem fully integrated.

This cask strength bottling has been matured in oloroso sherry casks.

The nose offers old leather and a slightly vegetal note, along with ginger and developing toffee.

The palate features unexpectedly dry sherry, rapidly giving treacle, plain chocolate, and dark spices.

Hot spices, with black pepper and raisins in the lengthy finish.

A “straight from the cask” bottling, finished in a Grand Arôme rum barrel.

If you’ve ever had rum from La Reunion island (easiest to find in France), you immediately pick it out here.

Intriguing on the palate, too: botanicals, fennel, liqueur-ish, honeyed malt, red licorice, and tropical fruit.

Sort of like a cross between a scotch and something Benedictine monks would make.

Here’s a whisky not seen very often in the U.S. When it is seen, it’s from one of the independent bottlers.

I have always felt that younger Glen Grant whiskies make a nice introduction to the single malt category-especially for a blend drinker trading up.

The whisky is usually light to medium in body and uncomplicated-with no harsh edges to be particularly offensive.

A soft, cereal grain maltiness marries nicely with floral, delicately fruity notes throughout.

Gentle, dry but malty finish, with suggestions of shortbread cookies and vanilla.

Four years ago Glen Grant was in a sorry state, its beautiful gardens in need of some love and attention, its malts neglected and seemingly unloved.

Then Campari bought it and we have heard very little more since.

With a new visitor center, the gardens in full bloom, and the owners determined to make it a major player, things are looking up.

This limited edition 170th anniversary bottling is made up of vintages stretching back to the 70s.

The result is a rich malt with some buttery toffee notes at first, distinctive lemon and green apple notes, and a touch of aniseed.

Midway through, it sets off in a more feisty direction, with some peat, sharp spice, and green banana skin.

Beguiling and unusual, it’s a statement of intent from an iconic distillery — watch this space.

Initially fresh and briny -- the Campbeltown signature being quite evident -- leading to chewy toffee, nutty notes.

The brine emerges again -- this time with a hint of seaweed and smoke, followed by another wave of chewy toffee and nuts.

The flavors stubbornly refuse to integrate fully, coming across on the palate individually and independently.

This Glencadam variant has been finished for 20 months in ruby port pipes.

The result is a whisky that departs from its younger stablemate by offering a nose of rose petals, milk chocolate, stewed rhubarb, sweet red wine, and black pepper.

Viscous on the palate; initially strawberries, then spicy milk chocolate, caramel, and candied cherries.

Remaining sweet in the finish, with nutmeg and darker chocolate notes.

No doubt about it, we’re at the furthest outpost of GlenDronach’s territory here, and this particular cask has waved the white flag.

It has a dense, sappy, and nutty nose which is very savory and not particularly attractive.

But thankfully there’s more to welcome you on the palate, with some rich orange and red fruit and sweet candy providing balance to the savory notes, and gentle oak and hazelnuts also getting a look in.

The first widely-available single malt from the revived distillery of Glenglassaugh, Revival comprises spirit from both first and refill casks, finished in first-fill oloroso sherry butts for a period of six months.

Quite sweet and mildly sherried, with developing roasted malt notes, ginger, hazelnuts, and caramel.

Leather and insistent spice on the palate, majoring in nutmeg and cinnamon.

A relatively heavily-peated variant of Glenglassaugh matured in 50-liter octave casks, giving significant cask influence due to the high surface-to-volume ratio.

Carbolic soap and a mineral note on the softly smoky nose, followed by apple pie and cream notes.

Now clear, dry peat notes present themselves with a touch of chili.

I’m a fan of the original Nadurra’s freshness, which maximizes Glenlivet’s apple blossom and pineapple perfume.

This pleasantly funky new brother has been matured wholly in oloroso, which adds (very) sweet sherry, nougat, blackcurrant, grilled pear, and malt.

While the palate starts well, with mixed red and black fruits (and a little grapefruit), the sherry adds thickness from back palate on and the distillery slides away.

The initial impression is of a fresh maltiness, sweet hay, and fresh porridge oats, then comes sawn oak, but it opens into pineapple, becoming more obviously Glenlivet.

The palate is pretty and light, but seems a bit hollow in the middle, making the whole package slightly insubstantial.

Water enhances and sweetens the nose, but deepens that mid-palate hole.

Good balance with malty-toffee notes accented by dried oak spices.

Additional notes of roasted nuts, tobacco, Earl Grey tea, sandalwood, and a hint of peat and bacon fat.

Style: Speyside single malt scotch Color: Bright gold Aroma: Fresh cut grass.

Palate: Sweet malt initially, then quickly becoming dry, oaky, grassy, and spicy.

The newest whisky in the regular stable of wood-finished whiskies for Glenmorangie.

Very fruity-sometimes reminiscent of overripe fruit; other times cooked fruit.

In the mix, there’s maple syrup, plum, almonds, and sweet barley notes.

The whisky is peppered with spicy notes of toasted oak, cinnamon and vanilla.

A whisky that is lush on the nose, chewy on the palate, with a finish of dried spices for balance.

This whisky takes some getting used to, and it’s not an every day whisky.

Very much in the Glenrothes style, with a viscous texture that clings to the palate.

Very perfumed and fragrant, too, with flavors of assorted dried fruit, vanilla, golden raisin, citrus, and honey that dry quickly on the palate.

A suggestion of peat lingers in the background and on the whisky’s clinging finish.

From a refill bourbon cask, here we have more marzipan and some light maltiness alongside very fresh fruit and delicate vanilla.

This is Rothes in slightly lean and hungry mode, with its signature fruits and spices in the background.

When that happens, there’s lemon drizzle cake, leafiness, and walnut flour.

This expression comprises peated Glenturret malt (55ppm) and some older unpeated Glenturret malt.

There is a higher proportion of peated malt in this revised edition than in the previous version.

Farmyard aromas on the nose, with an overlay of digestive biscuits and subtle smokiness.

Matured in a combination of first-fill Spanish oak sherry butts, refill American oak hogsheads, and first-fill bourbon barrels.

The nose is initially savory, with salted caramels, oak, vanilla, and toffee.

Medium-bodied, with brittle toffee and spicy fruit on the creamy palate, where more savory notes emerge.

A hint of bourbon in the softly spiced, herbal finish, which darkens to black coffee.

Honey, vanilla, heather, and citrus are the major components of this Highland Park, with a hint of youthful peat in the background.

A pleasant whisky for those who like a mature Highland Park without the sherry cask influence.

This is a big, vibrantly fruity whisky (lemon, lime, orange, grape), with background notes of anise, fat barley, and vanilla.

An interesting comparison to the Mackillop’s Choice expression reviewed above.

This is also a big, bold whisky from the currently mothballed Imperial distillery.

Instead it is quite sweet with a ripe maltiness up front-and rather viscous in texture-becoming dry, slightly austere, and spicy on the finish, with a wisp of smoke.

You could argue that there’s an element of auto-suggestion at work when you pick up saltiness in Inchgower, after all, it comes from a fishing port (Buckie).

and there it is — an unmistakable salinity on nose and palate which, when combined with lemon accents, cumin seed, thin fruit syrups, and green grapes, makes this an intense, perfect, aperitif.

Ripe peaches, malt, and vanilla on the nose, with a hint of linseed oil.

Oily on the palate, with more peaches, plus quite dark spices, backed by creamy vanilla.

Aroma of vanilla, honeyed malt, subtle marshmallow, with background herbal, hay-like notes.

Creamy, malty, vanilla notes in flavor-honey sweet initially, but eventually drying out towards the finish, with soft herbal, grassy, hay notes.

A new, no age statement addition to the Laphroaig family that blends together Quarter Cask, PX, Triple Wood, and 10 year old.

The nose is reminiscent of freshly-treated decking, before some classic iodine creeps in.

The palate is simple, clean, and mild (and smoky), with bay leaf, light dried fruit, and that oily wood.

Undoubtedly there's a lot going on, but it’s not married, and 40% means it lacks the necessary wallop.

Lochside closed in 1992 and its whisky will become increasingly difficult to find.

Very fragrant and quite fruity, with lemon, raspberry, red currant, and plum on the nose.

It starts out clean and fruity on the palate too, with a gentle maltiness, but this is quickly taken over by dominant toffee and caramel.

A nice Lochside whisky, which could have been even better with a little less toffee on the finish.

When compared to Craiglodge, reviewed above, this whisky is more intensely smoky, tarry, and youthful on the palate.

The other flavors, while in the same vein as Craiglodge, are more reserved (or perhaps more greatly overshadowed by the peat).

This peated expression of Springbank is fresh, powerful, and unbridled.

A brief, gristy, sweet malt intro quickly becomes quite aggressive, with an attack of tar, damp peat, kippers, mustard seed, Spanish olives, and Poire Williams.

The sweetness emerges again briefly, before succumbing to an assertive, fiery finish.

With Longmorn, you are always looking for a dense, sweet fruitiness.

This doesn’t disappoint on the nose, where there’s moist compacted fruitcake with marzipan, Brazil nut, glacé cherry, a hint of tobacco, then hard toffee.

The palate is soft to start but then an overly firm grip and slightly bitter edges come through.

There’s a hint of sulfur (from distillate rather than cask), then wet leather, Brazil nut, muesli, dried pineapple, and raisin; even a little rubber, suggestive of youth.

Water makes it considerably more coherent, showing a substantial, thick palate with some licorice.

Ripe, but you can’t help feeling that 12 is a little young for this slow-maturing distillate.

Fragrant aromas of ripe barley and vanilla, with some background pear, hay, dusty cocoa, ginger, and lemon grass.

Similar follow through on the palate, with a creamy mouthcoating texture throughout and a drying finish.

A pleasing malt all around, if not overly complex or challenging.

Clean, full malt foundation (the Lomond still is obvious), vanilla, and butterscotch with soft fruit and balancing dry oak spice that lingers on the finish.

Another catch-up from G&M, this time from the ‘Beast of Dufftown.’

Immediate substance and solidity, which is what you want from Mortlach, but there’s also thick-cut marmalade and cumin.

Only with water, however, does the classic meatiness emerge—like a lamb tangine with apricot.

A cleaner, slightly lighter side to the Flora & Fauna 16 year old, but with heft and a burnt licorice sweetness.

This 21 year old expression is lighter in color and not as sweet or fruity as the younger 17 year old also reviewed here.

Very mouthcoating in texture, with notes of dry vanilla, fat barley, coconut, citrus fruit, and pineapple.

Very fragrant, with a potpourri of dried spice, herbs, and (to a lesser degree) flowers on the nose and palate.

The spices are accentuated by mint tea, fennel, clove, and faint vegetal notes.

Not an elegant Rosebank, but rather, this is Rosebank with an attitude.

A relative newcomer to the Scotch whisky industry, having just turned 12.

And over the past decade, we’ve had plenty of opportunity to watch this whisky mature, as it was first bottled after a few years as Drumguish, and then under the Speyside name as an 8 year old and 10 year old before this 12 year old expression.

The foundation of this particular bottling is a generous serving of toffee, nuts, and vanilla fudge.

Fruity, golden raisin and peach notes provide contrast, with toffee and subtle oak on the finish.

Style: Highland (Isle of Skye) single malt scotch Color: Antique amber Aroma: Toffee, cookies fresh from the oven, waxy ripe fruit, bonfire smoke and damp peat, with background notes of pepper, brine, smoked kippers, and a hint of seaweed.

This bottling celebrates distillery manager Douglas Campbell’s 50 years of service at Tomatin, and includes casks from 1967, 1976, 1984, and 1990, along with a peated Tomatin from 2005.

The nose is initially slightly musty, with faint peat smoke, sweetening to mild vanilla, with new leather and peaches in time.

Full-bodied, relatively dry on the palate, with the European oak casks in the ascendancy here.

A delicate mélange of fruit and a teasing nuttiness balance nicely with the whisky’s gently sweet notes of lightly toasted marshmallow and caramel, finishing soft and pleasingly dry.

Fresh and clean, with notes of creamy barley, cut grass, coconut marshmallow, pencil shavings, and oatcake.

Tullibardine 225 Sauternes is finished in Sauternes dessert wine casks from Chateau Suduiraut in Bordeaux, and the nose majors in citrus fruits, vanilla, pepper, and a discreet herbal note.

Citrus fruits carry through to the spicy palate, with Jaffa orange to the fore, plus malt.

Spicy to the very end, with milk chocolate and a suggestion of passion fruit.

Some say it’s because it is easy to pronounce (though having said that, remember it’s ‘OH-bin’ and not ‘O’Bahn’).

I’d prefer to think its popularity is because there is something about the fresh cleanliness of the nose, its orange oils, chocolate, and zesty-zingy and yes, occasionally salty spiciness that is instantly appealing.

Quite a fruity adventure, with zingy notes of bramble, strawberry, rhubarb, sultana, nectarine, and plum.

All this fruit sits on a bed of creamy vanilla malt (the Longmorn influence is quite evident) that coats the palate long after the finish.

Bold, youthful, and somewhat medicinal (as would be expected), with peat smoke, tar, pebbles on a beach, and boat docks.

Additional flavors of smoked olives and exotic pepper add intrigue, while honeyed malt notes soothe the palate and provide balance.

Aggressive earthy smoke, tar, fiery pepper, bath soap, and ginger tamed by toffee and ripe malt.

For those who like smoky whiskies young, aggressive, and unabashed.

The sweet fruity notes start at the beginning of the palate, then cinnamon, nutmeg, cut hay, and smoke kick in.

The problem with selling your whisky by description is that if you don't deliver what you've claimed in the name, you're in trouble.

That's a little bit how it was with these whiskies when they were seven years old.

At this age, though, these are big boy whiskies and there is plenty of peat, seaweed, oil, barbecued fish, and salty sea notes to keep you hooked.

Quite fragrant and fairly sweet (but not cloyingly so), rich with nutty toffee, nougat, and bright summer fruits.

Well rounded, nicely matured for its age and, at $30, a good value these days.

A versatile whisky to keep in the drinks cabinet; it’s enjoyable enough sipping neat or with a splash of water, but (at this price) you won’t cringe if your guests drink it on the rocks or use it as a mixer.

Toffee apple intoxicated with kiln-trapped peat smoke, charcoal ash, anise, honeyed malt, brine, peppered seaweed, kippers, and damp earth.

Young Islay whiskies show the true character of Islay (which I like), and this is a young one.

Ideally, I’d like to see another five years, not chill-filtered, and bottled at 46% ABV, but there’s still a sort of “raw edge” attraction here.

can suggest a single malt without a spark of wayward genius.

This is,
typically, very ordered: nuts and honey with malt and pecan

As
it opens there’s dried lemon, oak, dried fig, and (dilute) pencil shavings.

The
like a mix of wine gums and cider.

Hazelburn CV is the non-age-statement version of Springbank’s unpeated, triple distilled single malt, introduced in 2010 to accompany the existing 8 and 12 year old variants.

Initially slightly mashy and herbal on the nose, with acetone and cigarette packets.

The finish is medium in length and spicy, with a slight suggestion of salt.

Master of Malt is an online whisky retailer, branching out with its own bottlings.

This, from an unnamed distillery, is lightly honeyed with some quince, apricot, and yellow plum, while there’s a mix of vanillin and dry bracken/grass behind.

Light, clean, and balanced, the palate is refined and relaxed with Demerara-like sweetness and a finish of honey-coated nuts.

I wanted more oomph on the palate, which might have come at 43% or 46%.

This laudable effort of comparative whiskies explores the effect of age by combining four parcels of stock in different proportions.

The older whiskies produce an enticing nose of marmalade-encrusted ham on the bone, grist, and worn sandpaper.

It’s sugary sweet with ripe melon before the sherry takes control and dishes out cherry candy and papaya.

Held in the mouth, it develops layers of creamy latte and milk chocolate as the fruit fades.

Batch 1 of this new blend brings oxidized apple, maple syrup, crispy potato skins, soft spices, and nutmeg grated over eggnog.

Rich strands of citrus, mint, and raisins mingle, building in intensity to greater spiciness at the swallow, where ginger and burnt sugar emerges.

Undiluted, there is a hot, spicy, slightly acrid finish dominated by the ginger.

Water adds melon, mandarin, and apple and manages to keep the ginger in check.

darker, grittier side.

It’s a big flavored blend, with its heart in the islands, and with oily coastal notes reminiscent of a delicatessen: brine, salty cheese, some crab apple relish, and smoked fish.

Standard blends fall into two categories: those that will behave nicely when mixed to offer almost non-whisky experience, and those that are feistier and want to make sure you know they’re there.

This is the former, and with whiskies like this one, it’s possible to blink and miss it.

There is little sign of the wood here, but the delicate, sweet apricot notes just do enough.

This single cask (#10328) bottling was distilled in the summer of 2006 and matured in a refill hogshead.

The nose is initially slightly mashy, with savory notes, becoming more floral, with caramel.

Bold and spicy on the palate, with roasted meat and underlying citrus fruit and herbal notes.

A little shy initially, but Glenallachie isn’t noted for its effusiveness.

It has a clean and slightly nutty aroma, with light honey alongside grilled hazelnut.

The palate is fairly crisp and slightly bunched up to start, until this nutty sweetness expands in the center.

Water flattens the aromatics a bit, but allows the flavors to spread gently.

An 11 year old Fettercairn from Douglas Laing, this is an undemanding but pleasing Highland dram.

It comes from a distillery which tends to polarize opinion among drinkers.

The nose is light and crisp, slightly floral, with pear juice and a hint of honey.

Sweet and spicy on the palate, with hazelnuts and drinking chocolate.

Powdery in the finish, with tangerines and a suggestion of Parma violets.

A solid middle-weight Macallan with some putty/Play-Doh, and even after this length of time, a certain youthful airiness.

This slightly lean aspect gives way to an almost suety richness.

When neat, the palate is a little jumbled: caramelized cask-derived notes, cereal, oiled jackets.

Water improves things, releasing an aroma akin to Chenin Blanc, then cooked pear and a big hit of sugared almonds on the back palate.

A broad and humid aroma, like walking through hot bracken in the summer.

It’s this last aroma that carries through most strongly onto the tongue.

Water reveals oak and pencil shavings/cedar, while the grip has now loosened.

Overripe cantaloupe, green apple, banana custard, and whole almond are the main soloists, though they are accompanied by a linear grain overture running through it.

A quartet of golden sultana, mint, ginger, and pepper play the opening movement, then sit back as toffee-dipped banana flavors orchestrate a delicious climax before a diminuendo into minor chords, with sour gooseberry and herbal notes to finish.

Water works well, elevating bright notes of lemon sponge on the palate.

Whiskies from undisclosed Speyside and Highland distilleries are blended together in first-fill sherry butts.

On the nose it’s an alluring blend of orange, cherry, toffee, salt, and ginger.

The entry follows the nose with toffee, orange, ginger, and malt.

Things begin to drop off in the mid-palate, which is very focused on salt and ginger, with strong alcohol undertones.

The alcohol drives and defines a dry finish that's absent of much of what's so alluring about this whisky.

There remains a light cereal aspect to the background, but it is considerably more youthful than the age suggests.

The palate is equally sweet and direct, with excellent spicy concentration.

Water shows that there is some weight here, reminiscent of honey-nut cornflakes (with cream).

The nose now hints at some oxidation, the palate retains peppery freshness.

Naming your blend “Sherry Cask” retains an air of ambiguity to it.

Theoretically, it could be the maturation or finishing vessel for all or some of the constituents.

The whisky is light-bodied and the sweet sherry is evident, though a nip of bitterness interrupts.

Smoother on the palate than the 12 year old, there’s strawberry, raspberry, and background spice, with a blackberry note late in the finish.

Overall, there’s less flavor development, but it’s an old-school kind of blend.

An official Strathclyde from Chivas Bros., presented in its squat bottle from their under-appreciated Cask Strength Edition series.

I found a peculiar nose comprising shafts of lemongrass, garlic bulb, root ginger, taffy candy, and green tea.

As an Iron Dram, it’s oily and bold, with coconut, fresh mint, and green pea, with a savory note tugging at the taste buds.

Dilution highlights scallions, a light creamy toffee, and Reese’s peanut butter cups.

Massive with a huge sherried attack; seven years is the right time to bottle.

There’s light raisin, date, and fig roll/treacle toffee, but it’s a funny one as it develops; while it is superficially impressive, it becomes clear that the oak-driven and distillery-derived parts, aren’t talking to each other.

On the palate, the black fruits and Demerara rum take initial charge along with menthol.

It’s been four years since Diageo last released an official single grain whisky from this Glasgow distillery.

This will kick off your evening with its aromas of golden syrup flapjacks, light vanilla sponge fingers, and waxy linseeds.

The American oak notes are all over this: vanilla, sweet granola, and pecan, yet there is a squeeze of lemon and a square of milk chocolate too.

The creamy finish has real length and makes this a most accessible grain whisky.

Delicate nose of sherbet and melting heather honey layered over pleasant grassy and herbal notes.

The texture is sweet, thin, and syrupy, with a slight vegetal note, before salted caramel reels it in, brimming over into a briny finish like a salty kiss.

Truth be told, the aromas and flavors work well, but the lack of weight makes it feel like a tiddler rather than catch of the day.

This is the foundation stone of the whole Label 5 range and it’s a solid, reputable blend that works neat, with a rock of ice, or in cocktails.

The digestive biscuits, dark walnut toffee, and fruit salad aromas concede to a rather inauspicious palate of burnt orange, malt biscuits, charred oak, and ground ginger.

Once again, some assertive distillery character to the fore which, in BenRiach’s case, means plenty of ripe sweet fruits, cooked apples, a jag of citrus, and a background malty note.

There’s a pleasant, slightly oxidative, wine-like note with water.

The sweetness dominates the palate, with the nuttiness moving to hot breakfast cereal and, in typical BenRiach fashion, a sweet spiced finish.

This blend is generously half malt and half grain, unusually selecting 16-18 year old malts.

The result has a nose of rich honey and florals, resplendent in a citrus intensity: squeezed orange skin with a background note of dry crackers.

The palate is orange and malty, with cola, faint spices, and a little waxiness, but the core feels a little hollow.

A good length finish where the pleasant buzz has a slight peatiness rubbed in.

It’s like tearing open a warm banana-and-toffee muffin, the steam bringing the moist, sweet goodness to your nostrils.

On the palate, the alcohol strength is noticeably strong, with flavors of red currant, cranberry, and black pepper.

At the fruitier end of the Cambus spectrum, this concludes with a whimper of spices, leading to a nip of cinnamon and bitter vanilla in the tail.

This is the new super-peated (131 ppm phenol barley) Bruichladdich.

Intense smoke on the nose and palate, with notes of freshly tarred road, cigar smoke and ash, licorice root, bacon fat, kalamata olive, and smoked seaweed.

Struggling to emerge are youthful orchard fruit, honeyed malt, brine, and soft vanilla.

Long, smoky finish -- like licking the walls of a peat-infused kiln.

It’s a few years younger than the other ultra-peated whisky, Ardbeg Supernova.

I think if they were both the same age, I would like them equally (and score them equally -- I gave Supernova an 89).

But the Octomore does taste a little green, which was not noticeable in the Supernova.

I think Octomore will be very good in another five years, and amazing in another ten.

Let’s hope the lads at Bruichladdich are holding some stocks back.

Some of these older Duncan Taylor grain whiskies are very individualistic and exciting.

With others, the wood has gotten the best of them (Grain whiskies are light in body and thus vulnerable to excessive oak aging).

This one, fortunately, gravitates more towards the former, with a rather reserved oak influence, given its age.

Notes of vanilla, crème brulee, marzipan, caramel-coated popcorn, brown sugar, toasted coconut, and subtle pineapple and papaya.

A gentle dried spice finish rescues the whisky from all the sweetness.

A fruity-sweet whisky (but still quite light and lively), with notes of orange marmalade, lemon meringue pie, and apricot.

There’s also an underlying vanilla maltiness that is balanced nicely by oak spice on the finish.

A respectable effort for a 10 year old and versatile enough to drink any time of the day (but I would prefer it before dinner).

Light, clean, and delicate on the palate, with creamy vanilla, marshmallow, soft fruit (lemon, lime), and a touch of honey throughout.

There’s plenty of marshmallow, vanilla cream, and ripe barley, with interspersed cut grass, lemon, and mustard seed.

Not as polished or refined as the distillery bottling of the same age, but it still has many redeeming qualities.

Gordon & MacPhail purchased the Benromach distillery from United Distillers and reopened the distillery in 1998.

They installed new stills and are using malt with a recognizable level of peating.

This is first official bottling from the whisky that they themselves have made.

The whisky is still youthful, but for a whisky of such youth it shows great balance, individuality, and promise.

Notes of vanilla cream, honey, and fruit (pineapple, pear) are peppered with nuances of smoke, herbs, and pine.

I eagerly look forward to tasting this whisky with a half dozen more years of aging.

Pit fruits (peaches, apricots) and lemon are the dominant notes, with underlying vanilla cream, butterscotch, and a hint of honey.

Layers of citrus fruit on the nose (especially Seville orange, lemon, grapefruit), with just a faint hint of peat smoke and floral, herbal notes.

It tastes similar in many ways to its aroma-there’s plenty of citrus fruit.

The fruit comes first, followed by the classic "older Bowmore" oaky dryness.

An echo of flavors repeats this sequence-first the citrus fruit, then the dry oak flavors.

Some peat smoke teases in the background, but is mostly restrained.

This whisky is classic older Bowmore (30+ years), with its exotic citrus fruit, distinctive oaky dryness, and faintest hint of peat smoke.

Bowmore in unusually oily guise here, with linseed oil, hot seashells, background water mint, completely integrated smoke, and a cooling note that brings to mind a lido (without any chlorine, I hasten to add).

The palate has a limey lift which flows into a quite thick, creamy/oaty mid-palate, with the smoke bedding itself on the tongue.

Its color suggests sherry cask influence, and its aroma confirms.

The initial impact on the palate is lush fruit, followed by a clean honeyed malt foundation.

Toffee and nuts emerge, with that satisfying Bruichladdich freshness and brine kicking in on the finish, providing some balance for the somewhat waxy, sherried sweetness.

Another Travel Retail exclusive, and while you might expect something delicate given the age statement, what is delivered is a thick, buttery/creamy opening that, for a second, teeters on the brink of sourness then pulls back to be more like ricotta cheese.

It then settles into vanilla, floral notes, white chocolate, and sweet barley.

The palate is thick once again, with lemon cheesecake giving a needed clean acidity.

This Caol Ila was released the same time as the 12 year old, reviewed above.

I felt that way when comparing Ardbeg 17 to Ardbeg 10 year old, and I feel the same with these two Caol Ila whiskies.

This 18 year old has the same flavor profile as the 12 year old.

It's a well-rounded dram too, but it has lost the vibrancy and dynamic intensity of the 12 year old.

If you want to experience Caol Ila in its entire youthful splendor-and save a few bucks while you're at it-then buy the 12 year old.

If the flavors of the 1990 Caol Ila reviewed above are nakedly exposed, then this Caol Ila is wearing a winter coat.

An established regular member of Diageo’s annual set of Special Releases, this expression celebrates the lesser-known side of Islay’s largest distillery; its production of a non-smoked expression.

It was this unpeated style that saved Caol Ila during the great decimation of distilleries in the early 1980s.

This example is intense and needs LOTS of water for its fragrance of cut grass, sherbet, and coconut water to emerge.

The palate shows boiled sweets and has a pleasingly clinging quality.

Initially what we have are classic Caol Ila notes: cod liver oil, soft pear-like fruits, and a glimpse of lobster cooked in sea water.

It’s not so much smoky as ozonic and, though it seems a little exposed with water, there’s a squeeze of lemon (for the lobster, maybe).

On the tongue there’s a light ashy note before the mouth is slowly filled.

Ripe peaches and bananas, orange chocolate, English toffee, and a hint of damp oak on the nose.

I can also detect brine, seaweed, peat smoke, and spice, but it’s a little clumsy.

Initially this is quite hot and a little dumb, with whiffs of Indian spice — think turmeric and curry leaf — along with mint sauce (but no lamb) and a tickle of peat.

The palate is quite intense and hot, with powdered almond, a grassy edge, and concentrated sweetness that starts in the center and builds toward the back palate.

Subtle, but can’t help wishing there was just a little more say from the cask.

Deanston distillery has released its first organic single malt, aged for 15 years in new oak barrels.

The palate is rich with intensely sweet early fruit notes, honey, more ginger, and now black pepper.

Becoming nuttier and slightly metallic in the finish with spicy oak and a hint of aniseed.

From a sherry hogshead, which is confirmed by its deep amber/crimson color.

A very clean whisky for 31 years in oak, and its complexity is subtle.

It’s sort of the antithesis of the Blackadder Longmorn also reviewed here.

The Longmorn shows its age proudly, and is bold, complex, and a bit rustic.

You’ll find notes of honey-laced fruit, caramel, and toffee, with an infusion of nutty, ginger-spiced notes, leading to a polished oak finish.

Light (for a Speysider), floral, fresh, and elegant, showing honeyed vanilla and lively fruit, along with a hint of marshmallow and hay.

The first official distillery release to the U.S. since the distillery was purchased by Angus Dundee.

It dries out quite nicely towards the finish, with spicy oak notes to keep it from becoming too cloying.

More of a reddish hue, but as equally robust as the 1961 (see below).

Some baked characters alongside dried cherry and barberry, which shift toward balsamic-like concentration.

The palate is tight and tannic, with a hint of smoke and cooked dried fruits.

Bottled for this auspicious occasion, this is a Glenfiddich that confounds people’s expectations by being smoky, not from casks (à la Caoran) but the distillate.

Fresh, with a nose that brings to mind eating apples and hazelnuts around a late summer bonfire; the smoke seems in charge.

On the palate, the reverse happens, with the fruits being thrust forward and the smoke only emerging on the finish.

Like Dalwhinnie, Glenkinchie starts life as a (deliberately) sulfury new make, but this character falls away in time to reveal delicacy.

As a 10 year old, that sulfur could still be hanging around — one reason for the switch to a 12 year age statement.

Here are gently lifted floral notes, hints of dry grass, and crisp pear.

The feel is gentle and slow in the center, while vanilla creeps into the finish.

A limited edition—there are only 630 bottles of this—for those who are “Glenlivet Guardians.”

A sherry refill, it’s a gentle expression that has typical Glenlivet floral elements that are more lifted than usual: elderflower cordial, jasmine, and night-scented stocks.

This general smoothness continues on the palate with ginger in syrup and an enlivening citric note on the finish.

Very fragrant and floral, with bright notes of citrus (lemons, orange) and fresh grass.

Similar on the palate, with additional notes of soft honeyed malt and vanilla.

A nice aperitif or, better yet, a liquid sorbet between courses.

Gently sweet, with toffee, nougat, and honey-glazed nuts, balanced by bright citrus and sultana.

Generally sweet notes of honeyed fruit, orange marmalade, dark chocolate, and salt water taffy.

Pleasing enough of a whisky -- with no miscues -- but missing the depth found in some of the older bottlings.

Clearly aged in a bourbon cask-there's plenty of honeyed malt and vanilla throughout.

Hints of bourbon even peek through occasionally, along with some subtle peat.

Soft melon mid-palate yields to dried spice, sea salt, bitter chocolate and herbal notes on the finish.

Alexandria.

Brittle toffee and cod liver oil on the nose, with vanilla and a whiff of Jaffa oranges.

Smooth and full on the palate, more substantial and sophisticated than the younger Inchmurrin variants.

Lengthy and unctuous in the finish, with more citrus fruit, gentle spice, and a touch of oak.

A soft, perfumed nose, with orchard fruits, vanilla, and a lightly spiced background.

Voluptuous and initially very sweet on the palate, with malt and almonds, then ginger and chili kick in.

Lively spices and fruit-and-nut chocolate continue through the lengthy and ultimately dry finish.

Soft and warm on the nose, with peaches in syrup, heather, hazelnut, and mild ginger.

Quite full and richly fruity on the palate: apricots and more peaches, plus stronger ginger and a hint of spicy oak.

Jura Elixir is exclusive to the Sainsbury’s supermarket chain, and takes its name from the legend that the water of Jura possesses life-prolonging qualities.

Elixir was finished in a mix of American white oak and ex-sherry casks.

Treacle toffee, ginger, and citrus fruits on the palate, which is ultimately slightly acrid.

There’s a tense minerality on the nose giving the impression of salty rock-pools and samphire.

There’s big delivery on the tongue, with masses of distillery character, but that tension remains to the saline finish.

rather soft whisky, with gently sweet notes of vanilla, marshmallow, and macaroon, with underlying tropical fruit, cut grass, and subtle spearmint.

Grape candy, raisin, blueberries, vanilla malt, and lavender, with hints of lemon and spearmint.

More aggressive campfire embers and damp earth burn underneath, along with some salt.

This whisky is quite fruity, with tangerine, lemon, and strawberries.

It is not as polished and rounded as the Gordon & Macphail Longmorn reviewed above.

Indeed, the fruity, damp oak notes can be quite dominant in this whisky.

However, the whisky evolves constantly on the palate and there are some minty, spicy underlying notes which add intrigue.

Appetizingly briny and spicy, as would be expected from a Pulteney-especially on the nose.

The spice notes (cinnamon, licorice root, vanilla) are balanced with light caramel and toffee.

While still enjoyable, I feel this would have been a better whisky if it were bottled 5-10 years ago.

Strathisla whisky produced from peaty water, to create a different variant of Strathisla.

The two dominant characteristics here are ripe fruit (berries, raisin, pineapple, citrus) and wood spices (cinnamon, clove, mint).

The fruit and honeyed/toffee almond sweetness is to the fore with the dry spices kicking in later.

They balance themselves out, but I wonder what this whisky tasted like fifteen years ago before the sherry and oak took the upper hand?

Aultmore is part of the Dewar’s stable and another of Speyside’s forgotten light brigade.

Here is a noseful of esters: bubblegum, pineapple, pink grapefruit, strawberries, and icing sugar.

The palate is equally energetic, though with little cask influence it’s a bit gawky and slightly green, especially with water, suggesting that another year wouldn’t have done it any harm.

A trio of new expressions of what has become an established Islay brand.

This one has a vibrant, edgy opening, almost like a burning lawnmower box, mixed with needed oiliness (gun oil), white tea, and, in time, the rather pleasant note of a cold fish supper.

The palate is broad, and though light, the oils allow it to cling to the tongue as the salt, lime, and smoke all begin to build.

It often takes time for a new distillery to find its feet, but Kilchoman’s spirit was top quality from the first day.

Its limited-edition releases act as markers on a work in progress, but are precociously advanced for their tender years.

This, the first 5 year old, leads with a note like wet rushes/wet dog (that’s good!)

The palate is sweet, smoked, and thick with allspice on the finish.

The character here is grassy: think hay and straw rather than lawn clippings.

There’s just a hint of cereal behind, and a fresh, roasted spiciness.

The palate has good central sweetness where you just get a hint of fruit.

A malt that was overlooked by one owner (Glenmorangie) and is now, under the auspices of a new one (La Martiniquaise), beginning to ease itself back into the single malt world.

The standard 12 year old bottling gives a perfect idea of its potential.

This is as soft and sweet a malt as you could ask for: peaches, toffee, and baked apple, with a tobacco/cedar/pine note from the oak.

Thanks to the suicidal pricing policy of its previous owner, Glen Moray has been considered nothing more than a bargain basement malt, but at its best it is a very sweet, lightly malty dram.

Water brings out banana chews while the tongue brings to mind a picnic with baked scones and apricot jam.

The only negative is slightly needling alcohol, so dilute and drink quickly.

While its regular stablemate Fior contains a proportion of peated malt, Fasque is unpeated, and the best comparison is with the now-discontinued 12 year old ‘1824’ house bottling.

Relatively full-bodied, with a rich, spicy palate, focusing on Jaffa oranges and dark chocolate.

It dries quite quickly to black coffee and spicy licorice, which linger in the mouth, along with a note of toffee.

extract

; with water it becomes fresher and almond-like with a touch of
greengage plum.

The palate has a soft feel, with the thickness displayed in the
nose alongside plums and crystallized ginger.

Released in Taiwan in 2010, 15 year old Singleton of Glen Ord offers deep, smooth sherry and ginger notes on the nose.

There’s vanilla, cocktail cherries, orange, malt, and dark chocolate on the palate.

Long in the fruity then drying finish, cocoa powder, and finally, rather bitter oak.

Launched in southeast Asia in 2006, 12 year old Glen Ord boasts a nose that is sweet and gingery, with toffee, a hint of tangerine, along with vanilla, sherry, and oriental spices.

The palate mirrors the nose with more spice, then chocolate, and milky coffee.

Any whisky with ‘dull’ in the middle of its name will always struggle in English-speaking markets.

It’s a shame, because it’s always delivered a gentle, sweet, lightly fruity/estery style, making it an ideal lunchtime dram.

Green apples are there, as is cinnamon, alongside a racy acidity before water brings out more scented aromas.

The finish is short, but it does its job as an easy-drinking, everyday malt.

The first spirit distilled at Abhainn Dearg is now 3 years old and legally Scotch single malt whisky.

The distillery has celebrated with a single cask, non-colored, non-chill filtered release of 2,011 500 ml bottles.

Apricots, crystallized ginger, candied peel, and papier-mâché on the nose.

The palate features fresh fruit, spicy oak, honeycomb, and finally, toffee.

A light, oily nose, a little nutty, baked apple, cinnamon, nutmeg, and malt biscuits.

There are seductive dark spices and cooked fruit, almost savory, like lifting the lid on a tagine.

A thinner mouthfeel showing some lime zest before a warm, enveloping glow of malt sweetness, gentle spice, toffee, raisin, and char emerges.

With water, sweeter with more candied citrus as honeys materialize.

A pleasant nose of light caramel, dried orange rind, butterscotch, sweet grain, and a lick of bonfire smoke, yet it’s like the volume has been dialed down to three.

Sweet barley, concentrated orange, a low rumble of spice, and the grain sings through.

Accessible, well structured, and light-textured, leading to a finish of brown sugar around the gums, although it has a stronger grain character than many in its price range.

Scooped-out spaghetti squash, whole red bird’s eye chilies, celery tops, and country ham.

It is redolent of sugary-sweet candies like Spangles (from the 1970s).

Light and delicate initially, moving into phases of vanilla sponge, dried raspberry, and peppery spices, then the vegetal notes grow larger in the later phases.

An enjoyable effort from refill cask #10439, but it fizzles out, leaving a finish of light pepperiness, heat, and sodden newspapers.

William Grant & Sons Rare Cask Reserves are micro-blends created jointly by Brian Kinsman and various liquor store proprietors, drawing on a choice of over 40 different single malts (importantly, not Glenfiddich or Balvenie).

Quite herbal, with tarragon, cilantro, boiled candies, and unripe plums.

A slow starter; vegetal notes yield to fudge, milk chocolate, orange, and maltiness, with pepper, oak, and spices in the latter phases.

Clearly well made, well balanced, and quite acceptable, it has a perfumed black currant sherbet nose, some slight but enjoyable blueberry, grape, and prune notes and a soft sweet conclusion.

Aromas of liquid honey, light toffee, dried apple, and satsuma peel.

There is an initial citric attack, but when the flare dies down, a residual bitterness cuts through the underlying creaminess and caramel.

Sure, its component whiskies lack substance and grip, but there is some flavor progression through to an enjoyable piquancy around the gums.

Simple, uncomplicated, but for the price there’s plenty to like here.

An upfront and quite aromatic nose with hints of a florist’s shop—stems and blooms—with an underpinning of malt.

The palate, when neat, is clean and mixes those flowers and some stewed apple.

Douglas Laing follows up its award winning, Islay-soaked Big Peat with this, a sherried Speyside whisky.

Just as Big Peat looks like Captain Haddock from Tintin, Scallywag on the label is a dead ringer for Snowy, though the official story is different.

Rootsy green salad malt is only partially rescued by the trademark Christmas cake and stewed fruits.

Nosing this whisky, you'd never guess just how fruity it is, with barnyard hay, dry malt, honey, and light smoke.

On the palate, however, the fruit is unmistakable with giant mango and apple.

The mid-palate takes a sharp left turn into smoke and salt, but the mango just won't let go.

A very dry, smoky finish is too dry, making the case against release at this ABV.

An oddball whisky that will probably only appeal to a very narrow audience.

Very fresh and quite light in color, suggestive of only light cask conversation.

BenRiach’s fruits are there with hints of apricot, even some gooseberry.

The palate is clean, though pretty hot, with that mature BenRiach fizzy spiciness on the back palate.

Can’t help but feel that this would have been a great 30 year old.

Not often seen as a single bottling, here we have Speyside’s modernist distillery in typically delicate guise, with plenty of subtle florals (think hyacinth and daffodils), something which is amplified with water.

Imagine a cool day in early spring and you are pretty much there.

Water doesn’t damage the palate delivery, but neither does it particularly enhance things.

At 8 years old, there are stiff caramels, malt, oatcakes, Genoise sponge, and zested clementines on the nose.

It doesn’t stint on flavor when it comes to the taste, bringing dried fig rolls, chewy toffee, Aunt Sally pralines, walnuts, and chocolate ganache to the party.

It’s driven by dry fruit rather than sweetness, and there is a bitter edge to the swallow that persists into the finish.

A whisky of black cherry, crème de prune, rancio, balsamic, and salt, for it has known a mythical chimera cask; half Pedro Ximénez, half oloroso wood.

The magical, syrupy texture foretells of passion fruit, fig, cherry, and raisins, but prophesizes that cask char will dominate the swallow.

Dark forces swamp the quest for grain, though there is taste, hope, and nourishment for the journey ahead.

The recent official release of Aultmore means that malt lovers are finally aware of the distillery’s intense grassy/perfumed character, and it is these characters which are prominent here, alongside a very light sherried note in the background.

There appears to be real complexity on the nose for such a young example, but water shows this to be the influence of the octave cask, which unravels slightly when water is added.

Formerly marketed as Glen Deveron and now rechristened the Deveron as part of owner John Dewar & Sons’

Last Great Malts initiative, this 18 year old is the oldest of three releases on offer.

Dark spices merge with sweet apples, walnuts, and a hint of chewing tobacco on the palate.

Did you hear that this distillery produced its 2.5 billionth liter of alcohol in 2015?

This example from a refill hoggie has a floral bouquet, with a nose of snapped fingers of vanilla shortbread, butter frosting, and Angel Delight.

An oily texture with flavors reminiscent of popcorn, turns to caramel, vanilla, parkin, and gingersnaps.

There are some growling base notes of peppercorn, but it ends on a singed popcorn note.

A pungent, merciless Islay whisky with intense peat reek, tarry rope, and raw seaweed.

Fiery cinnamon, clove, evergreen, and unsweetened black licorice stick just adds fuel to the fire.

An underbelly of vanilla malt and suggestions of coconut cream try to douse the fire, but it's a losing battle.

Released to celebrate the Ardbeg space mission, this is a mix of 1990 Ardbeg from bourbon and Marsala casks, and it’s the latter which make the running from the start.

Earthy, with blackberry and fruitcake, and sooty peatiness in the background.

While there’s a medicinal/herbal note with water, the palate has a damp wood edge.

Fortified wine can work with peat, but here there’s a clash between distillery character and the Marsala cask.

This one is non-chill filtered and finished in a “Quarter Cask,” similar to Laphroaig Quarter Cask (same owners).

Ardmore remains one of the few Speyside whiskies made with peat-smoked malt.

Chewy, almost oily-textured, with sweet notes of toffee and caramel up front, followed by emerging damp, earthy peat and bourbon-like notes.

The bourbon oak intensity dominates to a degree, disrupting the harmony of the remaining flavors.

A whisky of great potential, but still waiting to achieve some of it.

Rich and sweet in flavor (toffee, fudge, caramel), with interwoven notes of rich, ripe fruit.

Style: Highland (Isle of Arran) single malt scotch Color: Straw Gold Aroma: Youthful.

Pears in syrup, honeysuckle, and vanilla with a hint of caramel and citrus.

Palate: Vibrant, somewhat youthful flavors that echo its aroma, finishing slightly sweet and a little fiery (because of its age).

   General Comments: The lack of chill-filtering certainly makes this whisky more flavorful and dynamic than its filtered brethren.

I expect this whisky to continue improving with additional aging.

This whisky was aged in bourbon, oloroso sherry, and Pedro Ximinez sherry casks.

The PX cask, in particular, transforms what is normally a soft, delicate whisky into a big, rich, and chewy whisky.

Toffee, raisins, fudge, plum, and plenty of nutty notes are interwoven throughout.

An interesting adventure, but it’s hard to find the Auchentoshan in there.

Light and clean, with citrus, tropical fruit (coconut, pineapple, ripe banana), white chocolate, and honeyed vanilla, resting on a clean malty foundation.

Rich and sweet, with toffee, coconut cream, Turkish delight, nougat, and honey.

Ripe black raspberries, citrus, and dried spice (vanilla, fennel, and evergreen mint) provide complexity and attempt to balance all the sweetness.

A pleasant dram, but I wish there was a little more to prop up all that sweetness.

Drawn from a refill barrel, this is Balvenie all eager and bright at the start of its journey.

It’s like an excited kid eating pancakes and runny honey (with a squeeze of lemon juice) at breakfast on her first day of school.

There’s a hint of malt, a little peachiness, and a hint of the richness that will develop resonance in time.

I have great respect for whisky that has somehow managed to survive this many years without being bottled.

If you want to taste a piece of history (which I can understand) and have unlimited funds, then go ahead and buy this.

But, for the money, I prefer the BenRiach 25 year old (or even the 30 year old) to this whisky.

Notes of perfumed vanilla, roasted chestnut, and orange marmalade accentuate the oak.

Honeyed malt, peaches and cream, with subtle floral and lime notes.

Not satisfied with trying different levels of peating and cask types, the folks at BenRiach are also utilizing triple distillation.

This expression has spent three years in oloroso sherry butts, although for me there’s more a mix of honey and cream, and light orchard fruits than any overt fruitcake.

Or ‘Fumabat Porticus’ as it should be called—smoky whisky in a port cask—not that you need to be told that when you see the color.

The port takes the upper hand on the nose, giving a layer of black raspberry, sloe, and cranberry sauce.

This juicy fruitiness carries through to the tongue where the smoke now adds much-required dry balance.

Here is Benrinnes in very summery guise, with its signature meatiness barely discernible.

The palate is clean and concentrated, with a tart drive akin to red currant.

Water does improve things, and while the sour fruits are still there, the effect is more calm.

As cask strength examples of young Bowmore — sold at a very keen price — the small-batch Tempest range is already picking up a cult following.

This third release does not disappoint in the smoke department, while the nose also shows some orange zest aromas.

That said, it is a little restrained, showing its youth with a pea pod-like character on the palate, while its fruits are emerging but aren’t fully ripened.

Though the color suggests good cask activity, the initial approach shows a dram that seems slightly unfocused and youthful.

There are some kernel-like cereal elements and very little smokiness, with touches of salt and oil.

The feeling is that it’s only starting to blossom — and there is a floral element — and has been bottled too early.

It’s all very focused, lifted, and aromatic, but when compared to the Adelphi you can’t help but wonder whether the same distillery is involved.

Light gold in color, the roasted almond notes that start the nose show the influence of the amontillado sherry finish before your nose is filled with the contents of a spice merchant’s chest alongside, unusually, a light maritime note.

Very gentle and clean in the mouth with sour plum and a generally amenable nature.

The nose is all garden compost, moist vegetation, light smoke, and highly oxidized: like a young vin santo (or indeed Marsala).

Those oxidized wine notes are so dominant it’s shifted the balance toward the finish.

It’s been one of those drams that seems to need more time than many, but that’s true of Bunna’ in general, come to think of it.

In fact, the peatiness is quite mild on the nose, adding some scent to the sandalwood elements and obvious raisined sweetness.

There’s a slightly cheesy note in the background and a touch of sulphur on the palate.

Originally a one-off bottling for Friends of the Classic Malts, ‘Moch’ (Gaelic for dawn, though the association between daybreak and the dram is beyond me — one for the morning ‘skailk’ maybe?) appears to have taken the place of the Cask Strength expression.

The palate is clean and intense with a continuation of that oyster liquor character.

The finish in question here is Muscatel casks and you can tell that from the start, as the nose is filled with a rich, sweet, and very pronounced dusky fruitiness — sloes and plums.

The smoke as a result is diminished as are the grassy/bacony notes.

While the smoke does emerge from its fruity bubble on the tongue, the effect is almost liqueur-like.

Quite hot on the nose, with a little oak on show here alongside garam masala.

The effect is of dried fish and seaweed, Brazil nut and bread basket.

In the mouth it’s tense when neat, giving you the sense of it straining to express itself fully but being constricted by alcohol.

A clean whisky that emphasizes its sweeter notes, with honeyed malt, ripe barley, butterscotch, and vanilla.

Chewy and syrupy on the palate, with layers of sweetness (toffee, caramel, fudge), roasted almonds, and raisins.

A drying, resinous spice finish saves the sweetness from being too dominant.

Call me sentimental, but I just remembered the old Campbell Distillers 10 year old bottling which expressed so much more finesse, and was cleaner and not as heavy and cluttered.

This Glencraig, along with Mosstowie (reviewed below), were experimentations with "Lomond" stills, where the top of the stills were replaced with a rectifying column, allowing several different styles of whiskies to be produced at the same distillery.

Notes of bananas and cream, ripe barley, caramel, graham cracker, and orange creamsicle.

The fruity zing in this whisky shows that it still has some life in it.

One of a trio from Chivas Bros., who every year release limited editions of 500 ml cask strength bottlings from a selection of its estates.

This distillery is located amongst the fertile barley-growing fields of the Laich O’Moray.

This is a classic introduction to its fresh, zesty style, which plays an important role in the Ballantine’s blends.

Think cut grass, green apple, pine, pear drops, and a whiff of freshly-starched linen.

This energy carries on to the mouth where apple is the dominant flavor, along with green walnut and a zippy acidity.

Fresh citrus notes and pear drops on the nose, plus a newly-opened packet of printer paper.

The palate is quite full-bodied and fruity, with some white pepper.

It’s stewed, swampy, a big, feisty, take-no-prisoners whisky with oxtail soup, spicy tomato and meat broth on the nose, then black treacle, praline, cayenne, and paprika.

Another whisky that will not disappoint fans of the brand, but it doesn’t do enough to bring any converts on board.

The nose is fresh and sweet, with barley and ginger and not much else.

The taste is perfectly acceptable, and at this strength better than the standard bottling.

Water brings out a sweet malt and barley core, some gentle spice, and a rich sweetness.

Think of sponge fingers soaked in cream and you’re not far off the initial aroma.

Add in light macadamia-like nuttiness, a drift of mint, and Glenlivet’s signature apple — core, not green.

The palate has sweet, pure, pear-like fruit that initially keeps the oak in balance.

A single cask bottling of The Glenrothes aged in a first-fill sherry cask.

Only 519 bottles, all destined for the U.S. It is the richest, chewiest, sweetest, and fruitiest of all the Glenrothes whiskies reviewed here.

Deep mahogany color, with notes of toffee apples, waxed fruit, burnt orange, prunes in syrup, and dark chocolate.

The intensity of the sherry and length of oak-aging gives the whisky a flavor profile that begins to transcend traditional whisky flavors, expressing notes of port wine, pot-still rum, and rancio.

Sweet, ripe barley, balanced by damp peat, tar, and burning embers.

While enjoyable now, some of the flavors seem to behave more like individual solos, rather than harmony.

I think they will begin to integrate nicely by the time this generation of Ledaig reaches its teens.

Caramelized, fruity notes of mandarin, pineapple, golden raisin, and plum.

Heathery honey notes add an additional sweet dimension, as do some light toffee and nougat.

Like the other 15 year olds, this one is quite sherried, thick, and heavy on the palate.

A whisky very typical of this distillery, which has been silent since 1998.

Rich and thick on the nose and palate; oozing vanilla, ripe malt, cotton candy, powdered sugar, new-mown hay, and lemon tart.

An evolving whisky -- starts out heavy and sweet, then turns clingingly dry.

Notes of marshmallow, creamy vanilla, caramel, honey drenched fruit, almond liqueur, and coconut macaroon.

Rich on the nose, with damp tweed, malt, and a suggestion of earthiness.

The palate offers muted tropical fruits, soft gingery oak, and more earthiness.

Mild orchard fruit, apple blossom, cocoa powder, and a hint of nutmeg.

Initially, red grapes and almonds on the palate, with the fruit then darkening to raisins and developing oak.

The finish is long, spicy, dry, and oaky, with persistent background fruitiness trying to break through.

Despite close proximity to Islay, stylistically Jura make has far more in common with its Highland cousins.

The entry level 10 year old variant offers resin, oil, cereal, and pine notes on the delicate nose.

Comparatively light bodied, with malt and drying saltiness in the mouth, along with a hint of aniseed.

The finish is malty and nutty, with more salt, plus just a wisp of smoke.

A mix of bourbon and quarter casks finished in Pedro Ximenez, this new release is, initially, only for Travel Retail.

The problem with finishing peaty whiskies is that all you can do is reduce the smoke, but here it’s done with as much subtlety as you can when dealing with PX.

A thick mid-palate gives an effect like an old-fashioned medicine.

The annual Cairdeas release aims to show Laphroaig in a new light.

Initially I thought this too sweet and cask dominated, with the distillery battling against the wine—fresh red fruit and seaweed is a test, even for the best chef.

Add water and give it time though, and there is this lightly exotic, herbal, hazelnut-like element.

It lacks depth and the tarry thump beloved by many Laphroaig lovers, but is an interesting departure.

The latest in Chivas Bros. no age statement (NAS) variant of their malts and while the nose here does have Longmorn’s fruity elements, they are discreet.

This is also the case on the palate, where what is usually thick, elegant, and fruity has had its volume turned down.

Blind, it’s a nice dram, but I don’t want nice from Longmorn, I want great.

Style: Speyside single malt scotch Color: Gold Aroma: Fresh and youthful.

There’s a Roman dish involving lamb cooked in milk, and this is it in alcohol form.

A slightly peculiar lactic note rises and falls above the rich meatiness of the spirit.

There’s a hit of pencil shavings, but with water it becomes cheesy.

So much more straightforward on the tongue with good vinous weight, like an old Vin Jaune.

A creamy, mouthcoating whisky, with thick vanilla as the main thread.

I’m also picking up a lot of gin botanicals (especially juniper and orange peel).

An interesting enough of a dram, but not something I would drink on a regular basis.

A very traditional Rosebank-aged in a refill hogshead and bottled fairly young (12 years old)

Rosebank is one of the better, yet lesser known Lowland single malts.

Since the distillery was closed down in 1993, it will continue being unfamiliar to most, and finding young Rosebanks like this one will become increasingly more difficult.

The whisky turns very cloudy with the addition of water due to lack of chill filtering, but the additional water brings out the whisky’s subtle aromas and flavors-fresh cut grass, hay, delicate fruit, and a gentle malty sweetness.

Ironically, I actually enjoyed some of the recent young G&M Rosebanks bottled at 40% ABV better than this one-their flavors were cleaner, brighter, and more refined.

A new NAS expression from Scapa on Orkney, matured entirely in first-fill American oak casks.

An initial hint of lime cordial, then musty peaches, almonds, cinnamon, and table salt.

More peaches on the palate, with tinned pear and a little honey.

Tingling spices in the drying finish, which soon becomes quite bitter – detracting from the overall balance.

Toffee, vanilla fudge, roasted chestnuts, and nougat, enhanced by glazed peaches, burnt pineapple, dark cherry pits, and subtle anise.

Gripping charred oak tannins emerge mid-palate and continue on the finish detracting from an otherwise very pleasant experience.

Douglas Laing has added a no age statement bottling of Talisker to its Provenance range, tagging it as “Young and Feisty.”

Lively and up front, with bubblegum, wood smoke, and black pepper on the nose.

Zesty soft fruits, emerging dark peat notes, and more pepper on the palate.

A single cask (#10699) bottling of Talisker, distilled in the winter of 2008 and matured in a refill hogshead before bottling in May 2015.

Initially, a slight hint of new make, soon displaced by digestive biscuits, brine, and black pepper.

The finish is medium in length, with black coffee, licorice, and long-lasting spices.

The nose offers up walnut bread, spelt flour, and a green, malty note.

Overall, it’s slightly unyielding, with toasted oak, hazelnut, and barley.

Water opens up a sweeter core: Lucozade, apricot kernel, and barley.

The palate is where the apricot flesh turns up, but then it firms up quickly, snuffing that moment of levity out.

Water introduces lemon before it becomes very gingery on the finish.

This venerable blend has a nose of mandarin syrup cake, vanilla cream, and cut hay, with chopped cilantro and other herbal top notes.

Sweet and fruity, though verging on tasting of artificial sweeteners at times, there are malt notes and a developing butteriness, with sweet mandarin notes and sponge cake.

It all hangs on a light structure but it’s less smooth on the finish, with a scratch of wood smoke.

Malty foundation with citrus (lemon zest, tangerine sherbet) shining through, along with vanilla wafer, white chocolate, coconut, ginger, and cut grass.

A worthy “bridge whisky” for blended whisky drinkers curious about malt whisky, but single malt whisky drinkers might want more individuality.

A slightly perfumed nose offers up the slightly unusual pairing of dried lavender, sweet-cured herring, and then potpourri air freshener.

The smoke is very light, allowing a tantalizing glimpse of soft guava before the salinity returns.

Quite a solid start for a Caol Ila which, like the 30 year old (see above), pitches you into the farmyard, though this time it’s a sheep-shearing shed.

The initial impression is of a pretty dry example, but some oil begins to seep through.

The palate is explosive with some engine oil, becoming pretty flinty with violet notes, and the distillery sweetness is hidden.

The least assertive of the Wemyss 12 year old range, and the most flighty.

There's nothing wrong here, and the whisky's well-made and won't disappoint, but when you compare the spice hit here with what's on offer with other malts, this isn't shouting loudly enough.

The oldest of the new trio, here you can see how the smoke has become fully absorbed, accenting the peapod and spearmint, giving depth to the still-fresh ozonic elements.

The tongue, when neat, goes deep into pear and apple, but it’s edgy.

As with the 30 year old, here you get the sense of smoke being absorbed rather than being expressive.

There’s not a lot of cask at work here—this has real minerality, and an oily brininess bringing to mind a hot outboard motor on a fishing trip.

Halfway in a fire ignites, sending clouds of smoke forward, but then it dries too quickly.

Here, Royal Lochnagar has been given its secondary resting period in Muscat casks.

That nodule of sweetness in the 12 year old has been picked up and extended into a more perfumed world; think blueberry muffin and boysenberry jam.

The slight sour/bitter note is a positive, but I think in this case that the finish dominates proceedings and needs to be scaled down a little.

Another Glen Moray, this time in a substantially different guise than normal.

Yes, this is fresh, sweet, and malty — to be precise, draff-like — but there’s smoke as well, and a fairly decent belt of it.

Young it may be — amazingly it’s less than 2 years old — but the palate, especially with water, is cleansing and with vanilla, good phenols, and orris-like dryness.

The onionskin hue gives the initial indication that this was finished in a port pipe.

The nose is light and fruity: raspberry and cranberry juice, even a sprig of mint.

In time, there’s ripe melon, then lightly musty wood comes through.

Signature was new to the Singleton of Glen Ord range in 2013 as part of the Travel Retail exclusive Singleton Reserve Collection.

Soft toffee, banana, and ginger on the nose accompanied by slightly herbal and pine notes.

Sweet and easy-drinking, with a suggestion of sherry and drying oak.

The double maturation here is a vatting of bourbon and sherry casks finished off in what Diageo will only say is a “special” cask.

There’s a breakfast-style opening here of warm bagels with grape jelly, then comes citrus, before some of that dusky distillery character creeps in.

It’s quite bulked-up in the center of the palate, but finishes cleanly.

Despite a truly excellent nose, this time more sherry influences dominate: think of polished wood, damsons, and a little menthol/camphor and resinous oak.

Once again, the palate seems to be slightly dumber than I’d want from a venerable whisky that should be about elegant, complex expression.

Unmistakably grainy in character, this offers aromas of pink lemonade Dubble Bubble, faint vanilla, confectioner’s sugar, and mild herbal tones.

Its redeeming qualities are the good thick texture and creamy, buttery feeling in the mouth.

Sparkling orange and processed raspberry and strawberry flavors are hit by a surge of pepper and clove, which subsides to allow some late herbal notes to creep in.

The weakest of the Double Barrel trio on offer, this has a slightly spirity nose with a somewhat unpleasant off note, but the taste promises more than the nose delivers.

The oily, peaty Caol Ila is seemingly held in check by the Tamdhu on the one hand, while the fresh, zingy, sherbet-like characteristics of Tamdhu are tantalizingly faint.

Despite the high strength, the aromas strike the nose like a pillow in slow motion.

It’s a thick, unctuous, layered mouthful with honey, gooseberry, and lemon acidity, though a splash of water produces softer notes of Scottish tablet and evaporated milk.

Sure, part of the allure of Boutique-y whisky is the batch variations, but this is quite a different beast from the magnificent Batch 1.

It becomes more expressive on the tongue, though it remains subtle.

A bit of a stealth bomb because the palate shows plenty of spice, cinnamon toast, and baklava.

The nose is very draff-like/sweet mash, then green herbal notes, reminiscent of angelica.

The palate remains light and slightly hot on the tongue, with some cereal and a certain fatness.

A delicate and pleasant enough dram, but I’m slightly bemused as to why it’s being bottled at this age when there’s clearly so much more to give.

A little closed on the nose to start; clean, quite green and leafy (young ferns).

The flavor however, makes up for this, with good mid-palate sweetness and some dark fruits beginning to assemble themselves in the middle.

Another youthful offering from Douglas Laing in its Premier Barrel series, presented in one of 863 ceramic decanters.

This Glengoyne initially offers a nose of cherries and treacle before tinned tomatoes make their presence felt.

An interesting contrast to the older, more sherry cask-focused Glengoyne ‘house’ bottlings.

Following a similarly youthful Provenance range bottling of Talisker, and an NAS “Young and Feisty” variant, Douglas Laing has opted to release this 5 year old expression in its Premier Barrel lineup, complete with ceramic decanter, 495 of which were produced.

Initially meaty, then peat smoke envelops the nose, with damp tweed backing it up.

Black pepper and gunpowder tea on the bold palate; flinty, with lemon and lime.

This is the Lowland entry into Douglas Laing’s Remarkable Regional Malts collection, and on approach the nose is like sipping lemonade in a malt hopper: gristy malt, lemon, lime, honeydew melon, vanilla pods, peach, and apricot.

A similarly juicy palate, gaining sweet grassy notes, Spangles, and confectioners’ sugar, before ending on a finish of dried citrus and fizzy Refreshers.

True to the region, but the Epicurean makes the rest of the range look brighter, quicker, smarter, and tastier in comparison.

There is something very bedtime drink about this Glenallachie, without it being a dram to have before retiring for the night.

It’s to do with the aromatic sensation of powdered malted milk and cocoa powder.

The palate is simple, with some fresh apple, pear juice, and a lightly sour edge.

With water, pears come through, making it similar to a tequila blanco.

Vicks inhaler (menthol, camphor, and pine needle oil), freshly unwrapped sticks of spearmint gum, cilantro, and root ginger make for a stimulating, if not exactly charming olfactory experience.

Mouth-filling and structured with good weight, this has sweet orange and a mild gingery glow.

Although there are fleeting vegetal notes, it stays just sweet of the middle.

Close heat on the finish, saturating the taste buds with spice and dark citrus.

You can smell the time that has elapsed on this dark, chestnut dram.

Glimpses of vanilla essence, mushroom gills, blueberries, aged balsamic vinegar, and beef stock.

Flavors swirl around charred meat juices, walnut oil, chewed leather, rancio, tobacco leaf, tree bark, black toffee, and licorice root.

A slight creamy salvation tugs it from its oaky and savory comfort zone.

The moderate finish is awash with Brazil nut and bitter coffee grounds.

This could be seen as a brave young bottling of the sometimes divisive Fettercairn single malt, but Glenkeir Treasures has acquired some interesting casks which showcase the youthful whisky to good advantage.

Wet cardboard, starch, and savory notes on the initial nose, settling down to something fruitier and with milk chocolate.

Floral, nutty, and slightly peppery on the palate, with almonds, toffee, cocoa powder, and gentle citrus fruit.

Like being stuck inside the Dailuaine dark grains plant: all Marmite (yeast extract spread), deglazed roasting pan, and a cereal note.

In other words, the distillery character is the major contributor.

Some light nuttiness, but overall this is Dailuaine in funky guise.

This expression from Macduff distillery was launched along with its 12 and 18 year old siblings in 2015.

The nose is fresh and floral and offers light cereal notes and soft malt.

The palate yields new-mown hay, toffee apples, and quite sweet oak.

A single grain whisky made equally from wheat and barley to keep you amused until R&B Distillers builds their new distilleries.

The first impression created by the oloroso cask finish is an abundance of fruit sugar sweetness; cherry, raspberry, plus freshly picked mint leaves.

This is a bold, muscular, assertive grain, where the juicy fruit is soured by aniseed, licorice, and toasted walnut.

Comus is the name of a frankly terrifying English folk group who taps into the dark, pagan spirit underpinning that music.

An apposite name then for the Laddie’s most heavily-peated variant.

If you want to know what it’s like to stand beside a kiln, then sniff this, but the distillery’s sweetness is retained, here in the guise of pineapple and banana.

The palate is like eucalyptus lozenges, with light maltiness before that Laddie thickness makes things even sweeter.

MacQueen’s has an impressive range of age statement blends, but this is the youngest one.

Faint caramel and toast, a mild rub of whole spice, and snuff tobacco.

The mouthfeel is meager and lacks any real punch; there is spice and fudge, but little sweetness.

More caramel flavors develop alongside chocolate notes before a dry, quick finish.

There’s a little hint of white currant and light cereal, delicate and fragile — more fragile than the Balmenach — with a little touch of white chocolate.

The mouth is tense, as if everything is still baled up, even after all this time.

Very light acidity gives a certain freshness that water doesn’t shake loose.

Finishing in octave-sized PX casks has resulted in the creation of an oddity: the world’s first Ardbeg cordial.

There’s smoke, pigskin leather, and a sudden rootiness, mixed with damp woodland, stewing Victoria plums, and a weirdly lactic note.

This continues on the tongue, giving an effect like smoked cream cheese dotted with raisins.

The Bordeaux wine dominates, with its distinctive winery aroma and flavor.

Red raspberry, red currant, and a hint of strawberry comprise the core of this whisky, with underlying notes of vanilla cream, cocoa, and a hint of demerara rum.

I would have preferred less time in the wine casks for such a delicate whisky.

Dominant notes of citrus (lemon, lime) and other tropical fruits (coconut, mango) on the nose.

The entry is soft and malty, and then it becomes dry and gently oaky.

Not overly inspiring, but those who purchase the whisky for its rarity value (the distillery closed in 1983), shouldn’t be discouraged from actually drinking the stuff some day.

Aged in bourbon oak and then finished in Guigal Hermitage Rouge Syrah wine casks.

Bright notes of red raspberry, rhubarb, currant, plum, and (not surprisingly) grape, with background notes of vanilla and caramel.

I find the syrah notes entertaining on the nose, but too dominant on the palate for balance.

The fruit becomes waxy and hides a lot of Bruichladdich subtle complexities.

Very Caol Ila-like, with notes of damp peat, Greek olives, seaweed, mustard seed, incense, gin herbs, freshly ground pepper, and vanilla malt.

Sweet barley notes and vanilla are beaten up by coal tar, damp kiln smoke, and fiery spice on the finish.

I would have waited a couple more years before bottling this one.

Somewhat sidelined thanks to the presence of Glenrothes and Glen Grant (not to mention Speyburn) in the same village, Glen Spey gets on with producing fillings for numerous Diageo blends (primarily J&B).

As a result, it’s rarely seen as a single malt, with even independent bottlings pretty thin on the ground.

This 21 year old is the color of old gold, and while the nose initially surprises with a hint of suet dumplings, there’s a rich and dangerously hedonistic sweetness behind, which is strangely hard to pin down.

Eventually it appears to settle in the crème brûlée area, along with a fruity base (sweet, of course).

There’s a light green note that suggests it might be distillery character coming through, but water suggests it’s new wood.

In the mouth, there’s vanilla fudge and toffee, before a hint of muesli alongside dried mango.

This is coming from a first fill sherry hogshead, so there’s little surprise that the color is as dark as pitch.

This is Glenfarclas at its most concentrated; less about dried fruit and more about highly-roasted espresso with a glass of ancient Marsala on the side.

Too much cask for me, but if this is what rocks your boat, go for it!

The nose immediately betrays the fact that this has been matured in a first-fill sherry hogshead.

It’s akin to an artisan’s workshop, all leather oil and strange resins.

There’s an intriguing hint of curry spices and truffle, but all in all this is about density, black fruits (damson), allspice, and clove.

The palate has more tannin than you perhaps want — powerful and grippy with lots of nut and tea-like tannins; too grippy for me.

The sherry adds a nutty toffee sweetness, bramble, and other assorted red fruit and raisin, with the tell-tale Glenmorangie complexity tucked underneath.

A 1992 ‘Rothes finished in a peated cask, this shows immediate smoke along with some cellar notes.

It’s all very clean and fresh, but while the smoke is there it wanders about in a somewhat distracted fashion.

Like the recent Glenlivet peated cask offering it just lacks integration.

A bit too sappy on the nose, but more even-keeled on the palate.

The fruit notes (nectarine, plum, orange marmalade) sit on a bed of caramel, shortbread, and thick honey, with chocolate-covered almonds emerging on the finish.

For those who like their Highland Park youthful and very sherried.

This whisky is not as good as the similarly-aged, more polished and refined, standard distillery-bottled 25 year old cask-strength expression (our "Whisky of the Year" several years ago).

This single cask bottling from a sherry cask is intensely sherried.

The whisky is also nutty, with heathery peat notes emerging occasionally.

The floral, heather-honeyed grace treasured in Highland Park struggles to emerge, and ultimately loses the battle.

Becoming quite nutty with emerging notes of damp peat, dates, plum and blueberry.

The sherry is fairly dominant and masks some of the whisky's subtleties.

expressions.

The lineup also boasts striking new packaging and is bottled non-chill filtered.

Orange fondant cream and peaches on the nose, with caramel in the background.

Fuller-bodied than the 15 year old expression, with pineapple cheesecake and ginger on the palate.

The finish is quite long, and spicier and more peppery than that of the 15 year old bottling (also reviewed this issue).

It is drastically different than its younger siblings-this one is quite sherried, as its deep amber color with reddish hues suggests.

I really enjoy how this whisky tastes on the palate-it’s rich and silky with notes of fruitcake, toffee, maple, orange chocolate truffle, cinnamon, and nutmeg.

You’ll find the same notes on the nose, but there are also elements-cloying fruit, perfume, and a peculiar fleshy component-which detract from an otherwise lovely whisky.

There’s no age statement, but the whisky is less than 10 years old -- and is a little green.

Notes of toffee almonds, ripe fruit, freshly-ground pepper, chorizo, bacon fat, and damp peat smoke.

A few more years of maturation should improve this whisky significantly.

Quite palate-coating for a Lowlander, with sweet notes of vanilla malt, grist, honey and marshmallow.

More subtle notes of cut grass, linseed oil, rubber erasers, and chalky antacid tablets.

(A first-fill sherry cask would have completely dominated Rosebank’s delicate flavor profile.)

With the addition of water (which is necessary), the whisky becomes quite cloudy.

Rosebank’s traditional honeyed vanilla, grass/hay, and soft fruit are accentuated by lightly sherried, soft toffee flavors.

An interesting whisky, but the flavors are not clean and well-defined enough to warrant a higher rating.

Gently sweet notes of light toffee and vanilla custard, especially towards the front of the palate.

A very clean, well-balanced whisky that’s very easy to drink but also takes few risks.

Plenty of citrus zest, along with subtle pineapple and coconut on the nose.

The palate begins with honeyed-malt sweetness, followed by the citrus fruit, but then quickly turns dry and resinous, with dried nuts and spicy oak on the finish.

The intensity of the dryness on the finish surprised me and detracted from an otherwise well-rounded dram.

Amber in hue, this starts off very succulent and approachable, with some butterscotch, vanilla, and caramel toffee, but like its brother, it dries.

The palate is lighter than the 14 year old, and seems to float, lacking an anchor.

Water lightens it still further, just leaving a mix of oak and cereal, and an astringent finish.

Indeed smooth, and malty, with vanilla, shortbread, golden raisin, and macadamia nuts.

London-based specialist The Whisky Exchange won’t reveal where its main Islay brand is distilled, though the smart money is on a distillery not that far away from the ferry terminal that gives it its name.

This expression is less phenolic than you might expect; there’s more rapeseed oil than smoke, but it does have a nori wrap shoreline character.

The palate is discreet, with pineapple and creaminess leading the way toward a bonfire made of old fishboxes.

The nice thing about Islay whiskies is that they often show their true nature better at a younger age.

Malty sweet and incredibly herbal (almost gin-like), with emerging tar, smoked seaweed, and olive.

Medicinal in nature, with lingering tar and brine on the finish.

Bottled as one of last year’s Diageo Special Releases, this is very minty to start: mint chocolate to be precise, before Brazil nut and toasted bran appear, given balance by creamy oak.

This mix of nuts and sweetness continues on the tongue alongside an early burst of strawberry, but the center and back palate are foosty (as we say in Scotland), or dusty, as you probably do.

A sweet, aromatic nose, with fresh cream, flaked almonds, macaroons, pomegranate juice, and a veneer of vanilla from this refill barrel.

The palate starts warm and sweet, then revs up to full power; light butterscotch, cotton candy, clementine, Toledo marzipan, and corn kernels, with a hint of fresh green salad leaves.

Bottled as part of Douglas Laing’s Single Minded range, which focuses on young small batch bottlings, this 8 year old Jura matured in two refill sherry butts after being distilled in April 2006.

The palate is light and fruity, though dark spices and aniseed soon emerge.

Craigellachie is one of Scotland’s most interesting distilleries: its worm tubs providing a deliberately sulfury new make whose aromas flash off after maturation to reveal a deeply floral, pineapple-accented palate.

Here, sadly, an inactive cask has meant that cabbagey sulfur has not been fully worked out.

The fleshiness of the mature spirit is emerging, but this should have been kept in cask for another five years or so.

You’re familiar with those generic blended Scotch whiskies of debatable origin with an inoffensive flavor profile, right?

With aromas of the fruit and foliage of an orange grove, beeswax, and a grassy note, this is a juicy, citrus-led dram that puffs out in the mouth, bringing a tingle of light pepper, ginger, and thick fudge.

Despite the thinner mouthfeel, the baked orange and bitter Seville orange on the finish give it some bite.

On the palate, there is more fruit (pear, citrus) and sweet malt (vanilla, caramel, and toffee), with a gently sweet finish.

   Again there is no age statement, and this one is still on the youthful side, but it is richer (some sherry cask aging in the mix?) and expresses more flavors-and deeper flavors-than the one mentioned above.

It is still quite young, but it tastes more mature than its age (which is probably six years at the most).

Introduced as "the brother" to the 1989 vintage Bowmore released about a year ago (aged in bourbon casks).

Notes of waxed fruit, dates, fruitcake, and raisin permeate through tarry rope, leather boots, wet socks, and ripe peat.

Underlying notes of demerara rum, chocolate-covered coffee beans, and sea salt.

Only moderately peated (15ppm phenol), but a consistent influence.

Quite fresh: reminds me of a walk around a traditional distillery, with notes of steeping barley, kiln smoke, and youthful spirit.

A subtle, intriguing thread of gin botanicals (especially citrus peel) weaves its way through the palate.

It is made using lightly peated malt and matured in bourbon casks, and is named after one of the islands in Loch Lomond.

The fruit motif continues on to the palate, where spicy malt, vanilla, and ripe peaches predominate.

Juicy fruit, syrupy, a bit waxy, notes of maple syrup and spice (clove, mint).

Nicely soothing, but there is a trade-off here-the soft, floral beauty which makes Linkwood malt so attractive is lost somewhere behind the sherry and escapes only briefly from time to time.

Light onionskin color; the nose is scented with red fruits, cranberry sauce, hawthorn jelly, and red apple.

Sadly, the palate is soapy to start with, before the super-ripe red fruits come through.

I have tasted many superb Longrow whiskies in the past 15 years (not to mention some wonderful Tokaji dessert wines).

Longrow is an assertive whisky, and I can see the logic of finishing the whisky in an equally big Hungarian wine.

The flavors are equal in intensity -- and this is certainly a dynamic whisky -- but they just don’t integrate well.

You’ll find notes of waxed fruit, raisin, ripe barley, smoked fig, and toffee.

Distilled at the start of 2009, this special edition was bottled mid-2014, making it a 5 ½ year old whisky.

The nose is ashy paste with a good measure of barnyard funk along with sherry, oak, and clove spice.

The entry is all ashtray, a late night of sweet wine and cigarettes.

Sherry notes fight the smoke to emerge, but the smoke simply dominates.

A smoky, ashy, spicy, and dry finish round out a face-slapper of a whisky.

Touches of acetone and magic marker/solvent suggest that there’s precious little cask involvement going on here.

Pleasing enough, with lime jelly and kiwi fruits, and a little whiff of sweet oak, but it’s very understated.

In the mouth, it performs in a nutty way but doesn’t seem to have moved much over its quarter of a century sequestration.

There is some horchata and brazil nut, even a mashy note, but it either needs more time or a kick to get it moving.

Caramel wafers, white pepper, pumice stone, and strands of caramel on the nose, but this is not a whisky bursting with personality.

A sip brings cocoa and chocolate flavors which meld into an herb garden bouquet.

A thin mouthfeel and rather linear flavor development make this seem rather ordinary, not a word I normally associate with this idiosyncratic range.

Papier mâché, adhesives, lemongrass, green cardamom, peanut, pear, and other aromatic, fruity characteristics create a puzzling aroma profile.

On sipping, there is fruity baked apple, sherbet, and glowing light citrus notes of orange, grapefruit, and lime, with a medium weight structure.

The flavors tip toward a slight sour fruit note, but as this flattens out, creaminess rules.

The finish suffers a short, quick death, leaving mild, sour fruit.

Water brings crystallized lemon on the nose and sweeter, light fruits.

One might speculate about the initial qualities of this young grain prior to its sherry cask finish.

While it boasts a richer color, the nose is reminiscent of roast beef, plasticine, wet dog, and bruised raspberries.

In the mouth, it has good weight, though mouth puckering, with some brief rubbery notes early on before showing strawberry bubblegum, sugar crystals, black cherry, rhubarb, faint coffee notes, and an ever-growing pepperiness.

We live in an era where you can now buy the official whisky from a major motion picture.

The nose brings warm muffins, caramel, and grassy notes with a good dose of smoke.

There’s a tinge of polypropylene before a short, clipped, spicy finish.

The entry level official Girvan is named after their ‘MPS’ distillation apparatus that distills at various pressures and under vacuum to vaporize and distill at lower temperatures.

This is very light, with fresh whole pineapples, orange fondant creams, delicate vanilla, and risen dough.

It’s fiendishly sweet (have a dental hygienist on standby), like a deep layer of butter frosting, sticky cotton candy, honey, overripe bananas, and spearmint.

The expeditious finish tenders cookie mix, digestive biscuits, and a grind of pepper.

Hailing from the Speyside distillery, this has a deep orange color and an aroma of damp hay and a slightly vegetal note alongside caramel and peanut brittle.

The palate is thick with stewing fruits, tinned prune, and burnt sugar, with a background note of wet draff.

Water lifts things a little, but it's all rather sick and flabby.

The range begins with this entry-level whisky, aged for 3 years.

Aromas of pale toffee, vanilla, and scented, herbaceous notes can be found on the nose.

It has a light, silky texture and comprises flavors of stewed fruits, with a slight bitterness behind them.

Plum and coffee notes expand, though it remains tart through to the buzzy finish, which is lifted by hints of chocolate.

This bottling from an unspecified Highland distillery is intended to represent the style of whisky to be produced in the Raasay distillery, currently under construction.

  Peated to a level of 15ppm, this expression has been finished in Tuscan red wine casks.

Buttery farmyard aromas, with red berries and a sense of relative youth.

  Silky on the palate, with intense fruit sweetness and an immediate delivery of very spicy peat.

Meaning “son of the sea,” this MacNaMara has a lilting sweetness that lifts from the glass, the characteristic orange-peel oil note is present, but less assertive.

Nectarine, Murray mints, and antique shop mustiness, but a lot less aromatic than many of its contemporaries.

Flavors of sweet melon, golden honey, and tangy orange take off in the mouth, with tastes of white pepper, fennel, and ground ginger in hot pursuit.

Creamy on the palate and soothing in nature, with layers of sweetness (maple and butterscotch syrup, vanilla cream) and fruit (caramel apple, fried banana).

A low-level yet persistent nutty/burnt rubber note detracts from what would otherwise be a very fun, pleasantly sweet whisky.

(Note: at the time of publication, the whisky was not yet available in the U.S. Price above is UK price, converted to dollars).

This whisky comes from two bourbon casks, producing only 112 bottles.

While I applaud Morrison Bowmore's efforts to give us the opportunity to try such a mature expression of Auchentoshan, I feel that the whisky is past its prime.

I wouldn't describe it as overly woody, like I have other whiskies that are 41 years old.

The whisky's aroma and flavor are very peculiar, with plenty of vegetal notes (cucumbers especially) combined with stewed fruit, golden raisins, rose petals, and spice (anise, clove).

If it were $100 a bottle, I would suggest that you gather a few friends to chip in and buy a bottle, just for the experience.

But at $2,000, I think we should leave this one for the collectors.

It’s interesting in some respects, with the thick, sweet Hungarian dessert wine fighting with damp peat smoke for attention.

With a few more years aging (before finishing in the Tokaji wine), the flavors should integrate and mature better.

The owners of Bunnahabhain are making a peated version of this normally unpeated Islay whisky to put in their peated blend, Black Bottle.

But they have not yet put out, as a regular item, a peated expression of Bunnahabhain for purchase.

However, some of the independent bottlers got their hands on some, and this might be the first one to be offered in the U.S.

It’s what you would expect a 9 year old peated Bunnahabhain to taste like: toffee, vanilla fudge, and nuts (the Bunny signature), kiln peat smoke, and a bit too much youthfulness.

The lightness of the hue suggests a very slow maturation in refill casks, and while I tried hard to get to grips with this, I found the nose simply too discreet.

There’s a hint of the burning bonfire which indicates the subtle smoke that underpins Cragganmore; there’s even some parma violet, dried berries, and a hint of sulfur.

The palate picks things up a little, showing ferns, wet moss, Oolong tea, and dried apple, as well as citrus and — surprisingly — some just-lit cigar fuminess.

This is one of my top distilleries, but compared to the recent Special Releases and magnificent Friends of the Classic Malts bottlings, this is slightly underwhelming.

The second of the duo — destined for the U.S. and Taiwan — is a relative youngster and has been extracted from a fresh Spanish oak sherry hogshead.

The combination of first-fill and smaller cask size is immediately apparent.

The color is mocha dark and the nose has a distinctly sulfurous twist, behind which are black cherries dipped in chocolate, tonka bean, and leather.

For me, there’s too much cask and not sufficient Rothes complexities, especially on the palate.

A predominantly young blended malt heads up the first of the Reference Series, designed as an educational tool to help attune your palate.

It’s a light, floral array, with waxed lemons, oatcakes, and peppermint.

Mouthfeel is thin with little structure, heavy on the barley, with hints of boiled fruit candies.

Water fails to enliven the experience, other than showing late lemon and icing sugar.

Robert McNish conceived his recipe for a lighter style of Highland whisky in Glasgow in 1863 (though the brand added an ‘a’ to his surname for easier pronunciation).

Whole orange, ground hazelnut, and ground ginger on the nose, though it keeps pretty tight-lipped.

Light and sweet in the mouth, with mandarin and more pronounced ginger mid-palate before a medium-length finish of bubblegum and gooseberry.

Boldly, this is naturally colored (barely colored) 3 year old grain whisky presented in a tall, clear bottle.

The predominant aroma of corn husks is mixed with a sentimental schoolroom whiff of white glue peeled from the fingertips.

There’s wheat cracker, bread, cooked ham, dripping foliage, and chopped parsley.

A clean, refreshing mouthfeel with pleasant marshmallow sweetness is nixed by flavors of corn, sliced bread, and vanilla, but they are hastily extinguished.

Auchnagie (1812–1911) was a southern Highland distillery that existed for close to a century near Balluinluig, south of Pitlochry.

This reanimation is pale yellow in color with an abundance of young, green herbal, and foliage notes, with summer ferns, cardamom pods, and green tea.

It has an ethereal, gossamer-like texture, with green apple, melon boats, and soft honey.

As the layers peel away, the sweetness is dabbed with spices and black pepper before it peters out.

This Highland blend has a nose of lemon peel, tangerine, and pine-scented kitchen surfaces.

The whisky is young, with a sweet mandarin dressing over the grain character, barley sugars, and a gentle rumble of spice.

What it lacks at this age is mouthfeel, structure, and wood influence.

The finish continues the sugared orange theme, with spice and ground pepper fading to soor plooms.

For what can be expected at this age, the Clansman does its job well.

Squished rosehip, nuttiness, and seasoned wood, but there is little else of note on this one.

The palate has corn sweetness, red fruits, pomegranate, cherry lips, and descends into soor ploom territory with more oak wood.

The finish continues the woody theme with a residual baked apple note.

  Port Dundas can be wonderful to drink, but with no shortage of good to great grain whisky on the market, I feel this one is past its best.

Since a change of ownership in 2014, the Loch Lomond range has been revamped, with the previous blue and black label single malt variants being dropped in favor of this repackaged NAS expression.

Farmyard aromas on the early nose, then emerging malt and caramel.

Rounded on the palate, with immediate citrus fruits, toffee, allspice, and a suggestion of smoke.

Spices persist through a slightly citric, cerealy, medium-length finish.

Since Diageo has included Knockando in its Special Release program it seemed only right to reacquaint myself with the standard bottling.

The nose is reminiscent of breakfast cereal: Weetabix and bran flakes, with a whisper of vanilla.

The palate is light and dusty, and you get the impression that the malt just wants to scuttle across the tongue and down the throat as quickly as possible.

This amber-colored blend from the Gaelic Whisky Company has sweet barley notes and gentle spice aromas.

The caramels prop up the dominant flavor of cold-pressed orange oil squeezed from the peel.

A crescendo of peppery spice marks the late phase and distinguishes the swallow, before a finish of tangy citrus peel with a touch of clove.

Perfectly straightforward blend but limited in scope, like a linear dot-to-dot connecting barley, orange peel, and spice.

This Robert Burns World Federation Arran Single Island Malt is the Calvados or Poire Williams of the whisky world.

There's no age statement on this whisky, but it has the classic aromas and flavors of sweet pears prominent in very young distilled spirits.

The vanilla notes, along with its pale color, suggest a used bourbon cask.

I suppose one could treat it as an aperitif, and possibly chill it down or serve it on the rocks.

Citrus peel, light maple syrup, and almonds, with emerging grape and vanilla.

Somewhat elegant in nature, but the flavors do not especially complement each other.

Here we have Knockando in a hugely active cask and, sadly, its fragile character collapses under the assault.

The nose is oily and sulphury with notes of sealing wax, Turkish tobacco, and maraschino.

The palate is dry and tannic, the opposite of what is needed for a whisky that is nutty and dusty in the first place.

Fresh oak shavings, dry vanilla, and subtle toasted coconut throughout.

Some dried fruit, sultana, and toffee up front, but this is quickly consumed by the oak.

Deep, thick nose, with sappy oak, dried citrus, old leather, spearmint, and background leafy smoke.

The flavors flatten out and the wood dominates through the finish as the leather notes linger.

If you like Lalique (and have the money), then this new bottling is worth some consideration, because there are certainly moments of intrigue and pleasure on the nose and beginning of the palate.

But I have tasted several other 50-plus year old Macallans, and I can say with certainty that the 50 year old Millennium bottling and the 1946 vintage release were better and can probably still be found for a significantly lower price (Only 420 bottles available worldwide.)

Huge bourbon impact on the nose and palate, along with vanilla, coconut, stewed fruit, and dried wood spice -- especially on the finish, with lingering notes of anise, espresso, very dark chocolate, and charcoal.

A taste of history for sure, but this is a whisky that never was meant to be aged this long.

Port Ellen is going to just keep getting rarer and more expensive, and the quality is going to get more variable.

This one shows the traditional Port Ellen characteristics (seaweed, tar, charcoal, damp earth, vanilla, salt, white pepper), but it just seems to flatten out mid-palate, leading to a fairly lifeless, slightly astringent finish.

Bottling at a higher strength (and not chill-filtered) would have helped immensely.

Origins is Benromach’s new program to highlight different aspects of whisky-making, which I think is a great idea.

This expression focuses on the use of Golden Promise barley to make the malt, which is then aged in a sherry cask.

Unfortunately, there’s so much sherry here that I struggle to appreciate the impact or distinction from the Golden Promise barley.

Notes of ripe orchard fruit, tangerine, beeswax, sticky toffee pudding, and toasted almond.

A weighty Benromach (from the Golden Promise and/or the sherry).

I find the nose pleasant enough, but the sherry-induced waxed fruit component that emerges mid-palate is just too dominant.

Very youthful and naked, with damp peat, leafy smoke, charred oak, and black licorice, pears in honey and vanilla-tinged barley.

Certainly an entertaining whisky, but a few more years in the barrel would round this whisky out, meld the flavors together, and add depth.

I can tell there’s some young whisky in here, as there’s a suggestion of new make spirit interwoven with notes of heather, ripe barley, raw peat, and lingering smoke.

I like the concept, but wish the young component (the peated part of this whisky?)

Its best attributes are vanilla, toasted coconut, and tropical fruit, but the rest of this grain whisky is a bit of a disappointment.

A paint thinner component is evident (especially on the nose), along with more wood on the finish than this thin body can handle.

Two Carsebridge grain Scotch whiskies from Duncan Taylor which I have tasted recently were much better: richer and creamier, and with more balance.

Aged in a sherry cask, which adds sweet notes of toffee, Caribbean rum, waxed fruit, red licorice, and fruitcake to go along with the earthy smoke and lingering peat.

A much sweeter, fruitier affair than the Croftengea also reviewed here, but behind all that sherry there’s still a whisky that needs a little more maturing.

Earthy, fleshy notes with brooding grape notes and a gamey finish -- the Nebbiolo grape influence is obvious.

I enjoy Barolo wine and I enjoy Edradour whisky, but the flavors in this whisky mix like oil and water.

And I’m not crazy about the quality of the sherry (or perhaps even the wood it was aged in).

I have great respect for both Highland Park and Binny’s, but this is somewhat disappointing for a Highland Park.

But by mid-palate, the whisky turns harsh and unpleasant, with petroleum and vegetal notes that continues through to the finish.