V. The Cyclades (Kikladhes Nisoi) This is the central group of islands in the Aegean, so named because they more or less surround Delos, the ancient centre of trade and worship (kukloi = rings). I will not attempt to describe the islands here, but describe each separately when I come to them. To impose some order on the scattered islands they are broken down into three sections: northern, middle and southern Cyclades. Northern Cyclades Kea, Kithnos, Siros, Andros, Tinos, Mikonos, Delos and Rinia. Middle Cyclades Serifos, Sifnos, Andiparos, Pâros, Naxos, Dhenoussa, Irâklia, Skhinoûssa, Koufonisia, Amorgös and Levitha. Southern Cyclades Kimolos, Folegandros, Sikonos, Ios, Thira and Anâfi. Perama Frequency Weather forecast Nav warnings VHF Ch 86 (announce Ch 16) 0600, 1000, 1600, 0500, 1100, 1730, 2200 UTC 2330 UTC Weather patterns in the Cyclades The prevailing wind in the summer is the infamous meltemi blowing from the N-NW. The meltemi begins to blow fitfully at in June, blows strongest in July, August and September, and dies during October. In July and August the meltemi blows at Force 5--6 and may reach Force 7--8 on occasions. It may blow for 1--3 days or it may sometimes blow for 2 weeks at a time. There is no way of knowing just how long it will blow. It has a Siros Frequency Weather forecast Nav warnings VHF Ch 04 (announce Ch 16) 0600, 1000, 1600, 0500, 1100, 1730, 2200 UTC 2330 UTC Saronic Frequency Weather forecast Nav warnings VHF Ch 25 (announce Ch 16) 0600, 1000, 1600, 0500, 1100, 1730, 2200 UTC 2330 UTC 234
here is excellent and not to be confused with some of the sickly-sweet imitations made elsewhere. ERMOÜPOLIS (Limin Sirou) BA 1538 G31 Approach Conspicuous The twin villages on the hill above the harbour are easily seen from the distance. The most conspicuous object is the lighthouse on Nisis Gâidharos which is easily identified from a considerable distance off. Closer in a large cathedral on the slopes behind the town and the breakwaters are conspicuous. ERMOÜPOLIS @ 37°26'.15N 24°56'.9E By night Use the light on Nisis Aspronisi Fl(2)12s7M and Nisis Gâidharos F1.6sl2M. The entrance to the harbour is lit: Âk Kondoyiânnis F1.3s5M; the N breakwater head Fl.G.3s6M and S breakwater Fl.R.3s6M and F.Y. Ifalos Karfomeni is marked by a light buoy Q.R though it is not to be relied upon. Danger 1. Care is needed of Ifalos Karfomeni, a reef and shoal water on the SW side of the harbour. It is marked by a light buoy Q.R(occas). If a yacht keeps close to the end of the N breakwater where there are good depths, the bunkering station and reef are easily avoided. 2. Care is needed of the large ferries constantly churning in and out of the harbour. Mooring Go stern or bows-to the quay on the N side of the harbour. The bottom is mud - good holding. Approaches to Ermoüpolis looking NNW 246
ERMOÜPOLIS FISHING HARBOUR GAİDHAROS ANCHORAGE @ 37°25'.6N 24°58'.7E On the SE corner of the island there is a small cove that provides good shelter from the meltemi. Approximately halfway into the cove there is a bar with 2.5m depths over it. On the W side of the bar near the coast there is a sunken obstruction. Once over the bar anchor in 3m on a sand and weed bottom. No facilities. ÖRMOS VARIS A deeply indented bay on the SE side of Siros immediately W of Ak Khondra. Anchor near the head of the bay in 2--4m or in the cove on the W side in 3-5m. The bottom is sand and good holding. Good shelter from the meltemi although there are gusts and a swell can be reflected into the anchorage. FINIKAS APPROACHES @ 37°23'.23N 24°52'.17E WGS84 @ 2 37°23'.51N 24°52'.48E WGS84 Several tavernas around the waterfront and a hotel at the head of the bay. Fuel about 800m away on the road to Ermoüpolis. ÖRMOS VARIS @ 7 0.2M S of Âk Khondra (Siros) 37°22'.75N 24°56'.60E WGS84 FINIKAS (Foinikas, Foinikou) BA 1538 A sheltered bay on the SW coast of Siros. Approach Conspicuous The villas around the slopes of Örmos Finikou will be seen and closer in the light structure on Psathonisi can be identified. Psathonisi is low-lying and difficult to make out from the distance. The rough stone breakwater built out from the point to Vrak Dhimitra on the W side of Ormos Foinikou will also be seen. By night Use the light on Psathonisi F1.2s5M and the light on Vrak Dhimitra Fl.R. l.5s4M vis only over 198°-085°. The end of the mole at Posidhonia is lit F.G. 248
General The bay and the beach are most attractive so it is not surprising that a number of hotels and villas have been built around the bay. Nearly everyone who visits here likes the place and it is well worth stopping here with the bonus in the meltemi season of excellent shelter. POSIDHONİA The military harbour in the SE corner of Ormos Finikou. Yachts are not permitted to berth inside the harbour which in any case is usually occupied by naval craft. Yachts can anchor off in the SE corner just clear of the prohibited area. The anchorage is not well sheltered from the meltemi, but is useful if it blows from the S. Taverna ashore. POSIDHONİA @ 37°23'.3N 24°52'.9E ÖRMOS GALISSAS ÖRMOS GALISSAS @ 37°26'.88N 24°53'.86E WGS84 A bay lying immediately S of Ak Katakefalos. Anchor in 4--5m at the head of the bay. There are 3m depths about 50m off the beach. The bottom is sand and good holding. Reasonable shelter from the meltemi although some swell penetrates into the bay. On the S side of the bay a short mole has been built and several yachts can squeeze in behind it getting better shelter from the meltemi. Care is needed of underwater ballasting off the mole so take a long line to it. Mini-market and tavernas ashore as well as a producing industrial sound levels. ÖRMOS KINI A small bay on the W coast of Siros immediately opposite Ermoüpolis on the E coast. Care must be taken of the reef lying just over half a mile off the coast of the bay. Care must also be taken of a sand bar just under the water that extends from the S side of the bay to halfway across it. Anchor in 3-5m in the NE corner. There are numerous laid moorings here so care is needed not to foul your anchor. The mole on the N side of the bay has depths off the quayed area, but is always full of tripper and local boats. Reasonable shelter from the meltemi although some swell is pushed into the bay. Open W. ÖRMOS KINI @ 37°26'.52N 24°54'.68E Kini looking W Tavernas ashore and limited provisions can be obtained. 250
MİKONOS MARINA (MİKONOS NEW HARBOUR) @ 37°27'.74N 25°19'.54E WGS84 Mikonos Marina looking W Dangers The meltemi gusts down into the bay making manoeuvring difficult although, unlike the old harbour, there is plenty of room here. Mooring At the time of writing, yachts go alongside the quay on the S side of the basin. As work progresses pontoons and laid moorings will be installed. Shelter Good all-round shelter although the meltemi gusting into the harbour can pin you against the quay. Authorities Port police. Note At the moment no charge is made for using the harbour, but this will change when work is more advanced and services are installed. Facilities Services None at the time of writing. It is planned to install water and electricity points and a shower and toilet You may be able to get a water tanker to deliver. Fuel Can be delivered by mini-tanker to the quay. Repairs Limited mechanical repairs only. Limited chandlers in Mikonos town. Provisions Good shopping for all provisions in Mikonos town. Eating out Wide choice of tavernas and restaurants in Mikonos town. Other PO. OTE. Banks. Hospital. Greek Gas and Camping Gaz. Hire cars and motorbikes on the N 260
MIDDLE CYCLADES - WEST Middle Cyclades Serifos (Seriphos) A dome-like island with the houses of the chora on a conical hill SE of the summit of Mt Troullos (585m/l,919ft). The island appears barren from seaward but at Livddhi it is green and wooded around the shore, and inland from the chora there are several green valleys in startling contrast to the burnt brown mountain sides. There are a number of iron ore mines at Megâlo Khorio on the west coast of the island and at Koutala on the south, but there is little active mining today. Livâdhi has a modest tourist trade in the summer, but for the most part the island is populated by the old (particularly noticeable in the chora) as the young have deserted the island for Athens. LIVADHI (Livadhiou) BA 1538 G33 Approach @ 14 1M N of Âk Volos (Serifos)37°13'.8N 24°29'.5E @ 15 1M W of Âk Kiklops (Serifos)37°07'.4N 24°23'.7E @ 16 0.2M W of Âk (entrance to Ö. Livadhiou/Serifos) 37°07'.66N 24°31'.68E WGS84 Conspicuous Coasting around the S coast the lighthouse on Âk Spathi is conspicuous. From the N and E Nisis Vous can be recognised and closer in the white houses of the chora on the hill above the harbour are easily seen. Once at the entrance to Ormos Livadhiou the approach is straightforward. 264
ORMOS FIKIADHA @ 36°54'.4N 24°41'.6E looking NE towards the head of the bay Nigel Patten PLATI YIALOS @ 36°55'.6N 24°44'.0E FAROS (Pharos) BA 1538 An near the SE tip of Sifnos providing good shelter from the meltemi. Open only to the S. The church on Âk Petalos, on the W side of the entrance, and the light structure on Âk Stavrös, on the E side of the entrance, are conspicuous. Anchor off the village in 3-12m. There is a short quay with 2-3m depths on the E side of the bay where a few yachts may be able to go stern or bows-to. Often it is occupied by local and tripper boats. Alternatively anchor in one of the coves on the W and E side of the entrance. The bottom is sand and weed - good holding once through the weed. Good shelter from the meltemi although there are strong gusts into the bay. Tavernas at the head of the bay and limited provisions. A number of villas and small hotels have been built around the adjacent coastline - mostly frequented by the young. The bay, hemmed in by ORMOS FAROS @ 36°56'.3N 24°45'.2E high land, is a wonderful place with good swimming in the clear water and good snorkelling around the adjacent coast. Kastro An open cove under the medieval village on the slopes above. The cove lying immediately N of Âk Miti is suitable only in calm weather, being entirely open to the prevailing summer northerlies. Anchor in 3-4m off the tiny beach and take a long line 269
Paroikiâ on Pâros looking NW across Örmos Paroikiâs Peter KleinothlMareTeam PAROİKİÂ @ 37°05'.3N25°09'.1E Facilities Water On the quay once the 'water man' is located. Fuel On the outskirts of town. A mini-tanker can deliver to the harbour. Repairs Yacht service agency. Call Afros Yacht Service on VHF Ch 73 or Tel. 0284 23625. Mechanical repairs. Sailmaker. Chandlers. General hardware. Provisions Good shopping for all provisions in the town. Ice available. Eating out Good tavernas of all types. I favour some of the local tavernas in the streets behind the harbour, but are all sorts of other tavernas in town. Other PO. OTE. Banks. Greek gas and Camping Gaz. Hire cars, motorbikes and bicycles. to the other villages on the island. Ferries to Piraeus, Rhodes, Iraklion and nearby Cyclades islands. General Built on a gentle slope beside the sea with steep slopes behind, Paroikiâ is typically Cycladic shops, churches are dazzling white cubes Âk Körakas and lighthouse on the W side of the entrance to Örmos Naoüsis looking SW 274
with bougainvillea and wisteria providing splashes of natural colour. The old quarter around the Kâstro is an intriguing place full of narrow winding alleys and archways, stone houses and shops with wooden balconies. Paroikiâ possesses the finest church in the Aegean, the Katapoliani (Ekatontepiliani). The name is said to mean 'the church of the 100 doors', but more probably means simply 'below the town'. The church is in fact three churches under one roof and it is well worth a visit for the beautiful interior - a mixture of the original and some recent renovation in neo-Byzantine style. On 15 August pilgrims converge on the church although the celebrations cannot compete with the Tiniot festival. Near the church the archaeological museum houses some interesting finds including a slab of the Parian Chronicle recording Greek history from pre-Homeric times and some sculptures in Parian marble. The harbour is busy in the summer with ferries constantly coming and going bringing throngs of holidaymakers to the main port. The town resounds to the babble of different languages, the entreaties of waiters wanting your custom, and the click of camera shutters, and no wonder - some of the streets ending literally at the sea on the W of the town rival those in Mikonos for wonderful Cycladic architecture. NÂOUSA BA 1539 Approach This large much-indented bay lies on the N end of Pâros between Âk Körakas and the islet of Gaidhouronisi. Conspicuous The white lighthouse on Âk Körakas is conspicuous and from the entrance to the bay the power station buildings on the S side of Ormos Langeri, the white houses of Nâousa, and a large church with a red cupola behind the village, are conspicuous. By night A night approach is not recommended. In good visibility use the light on Âk Körakas LF1.12sl4M and the lights at the entrance to Nâousa harbour Fl.R.l-5s3M/Fl.G.l-5s3M. Dangers Care is needed of the above and below water rocks fringing the islets and shores of the large bay. ORMOS NAOÜSIS @ 37°09'.44N 25°14'.35E WGS84 275