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It is palatable and nutritious. It makes an excellent companion grass for alfalfa, trefoil, or clover since it does not compete with legumes. Erosion control: Timothy can be used with legumes and/or other grasses in a mix for cover purposes, filter strips, waterways, and other critical area applications. Wildlife: Timothy is commonly found in wildlife mixtures for nesting, brood cover, and escape. Description Phleum pratense L., Timothy. is a relatively short-lived, cool- season perennial that grows in stools or clumps and has a shallow, compact, and fibrous root system. It grows in erect clumps 20 to 40 inches tall. Leaves vary in length from a few inches to a foot and are about 1⁄4 inch wide, narrowing gently toward the tip. Heads are spike-like and dense, from 2 to 6 inches in length. Seed is very small and usually remains enclosed in the glumes. There are approximately 1,152,000 seeds per pound. Timothy is different from most other grasses in that 1 or occasionally 2 of the basal internodes of the stem swell into a bulb-like growth.

This characteristic is often used for identification of the plant during is early stages of growth. Adaptation and Distribution Timothy is adapted to a cool and humid climate. Timothy thrives best on rich, moist bottomlands and on finer textured soils, such as clay loams. It does not do well on coarser soils. It prefers a pH of 5.5 to 7.0. Timothy will grow for a time on soils low in fertility, but it is better adapted to a high fertility soil. It is not well adapted to wet, flat land where water stands for any considerable time. Under limited moisture conditions, it makes a poor recovery and does not tolerate drought or prolonged high temperatures. Timothy is very winterhardy and has high tolerance to cold temperatures and ice encasement. Establishment Timothy is usually seeded in mixtures with legumes. This mixture may be drilled with a small grain drill. If planted with a winter grain, the Timothy is seeded with it, and the legume is planted early the following spring. Seeding depth of Timothy should be 1⁄2 inch. A firm, weed-free seedbed is a key to a successful planting.

Common seeding rates are 8 to 10 pounds/acre when seeded alone and 4 to 6 pounds/acre when seeded in mixtures. Management Timothy is highly responsive to fertilizers, which should be applied frequently in ample quantities. Fertilizer, especially nitrogen, is important when legumes have almost disappeared from the hay or pasture mixture. Timothy stands become weak under close and continuous grazing. A fundamental reason for the decline of Timothy under poor grazing practices is injury to the bulblets. These bulblets form in the spring at the same time the stem elongates. Food materials are stored in them, and they may be destroyed by trampling of grazing animals. Timothy can be initially grazed before jointing and again between early head to full head. Second and successive grazing should also occur before jointing and when basal sprouts appear at the soil surface. After the second grazing, plants usually do not joint; therefore, sprouts are primary guides. Timothy should be cut for hay or silage from early to full head. Make successive harvests for hay and silage when basal sprouts appear at the soil surface.

Sterile seed- heads may be 15 to 20 inches up the stems when sprouts appear at the time of second cutting. Growing points stay below ground after a second cutting. Graze or cut to a minimum height of 3 inches or more. Timothy Alfalfa, Oat, Forage, Timothy, Orchard and Grass Hay Atascadero Hay and Feed is a local family owned operation. I’m Kevin Buffett, the owner, and I grew up in this county. I understand our unique local farm, ranch and livestock needs. The products we sell are the same ones I use in my own ranch operation – high quality products at a fair price. Those products are accompanied by the expertise of myself and my staff. We will strive to provide solutions to your problems, answers to your questions, with an abundance of local-grown home-town hospitality. How to choose the right Hay: We carry 3 different basic types of hay: Grass, Legume and Grain. Grass hays like our Timothy have a high fiber content and are low in protein and calcium. It is one of the most common hays fed to horses. Grass hays should be the main component in rabbit, chinchilla and guinea pig diets.

The seed heads contain protein and the stems are an important source of roughage. Orchard grass and Bermuda grass are quite similar to Timothy, only they have slightly lower protein and fiber content. Orchard grass hay has a slightly sweeter smell and a finer texture than Timothy. If your animal doesn’t care for Timothy hay, you might try Orchard Grass or Bermuda Grass as an alternative. Legume hays, like Alfalfa, have a higher protein content than grass hays, and should be feed to active, working, lactating, young or convalescing animals that have higher nutritional needs. It can also be used as a treat for adult animals. Most animals adore the taste of alfalfa hay, however it is too rich to use as the only daily hay for most adult animals. It should be fed in moderation, or fed as a blend with grass or grain hays. Alfalfa hay should never be fed to animals with urinary tract problems. Look for alfalfa with a bright color and fine leafy stems. The grain hay varieties we regulary carry are Oat Hay and Forage Hay. Oat hay is cut before the grain is fully mature and makes for an excellent horse and cattle feed.

When choosing grain hay you want to look for hay that still has some color, but isn’t so far along (mature) that the seed heads begin to shell out. Here at Atascadero Hay and Feed we are very particular about the hay we sell. We work closely with our growers to ensure we are providing the best possible quality hay for your livestock feeding needs. Our staff is available to answer any questions you might have about the different varieties of hay we carry, and what hay would be best feed choice for your rabbits, chinchillas, guinea pigs, sheep, goats, horses, cattle, llamas, alpacas and other exotic animals. Did You Know? Hay is a very important part of rabbits, chinchillas and cavies (guinea pigs) food intake. To maintain a healthy digestive system they need a continual supply of grass hay as the majority of their diet. Besides nutritional needs, hay also plays several other important roles. Rabbits are self-groomers like cats and don’t need to be bathed like a dog. However unlike cats, they don’t have the natural reflex to cough up furballs. Because of this, intestinal blockages can be common and deadly in rabbits that are not fed enough fiber.

Grass hay serves as a roughage and helps to move hairballs through your bunny’s digestive system. Pellets contain fiber, but rabbits need the long type of roughage that is found in the long strands of hay. In addition, chewing hay helps rabbits to deal with stress and boredom, and helps to keep their teeth worn down. You should choose hay that is as dust free as possible, has few weeds and thorns, is mold free and slightly green in color. It should have an appealing fresh sweet smell. Field of Grain in the North County Recently Baled Straw in a Local Field ay We carry a variety of high quality alfalfa, grain hay and grasses for all of your pet and livestock feeding needs. Alfalfa Hay Alfalfa Hay is a high-fiber legume hay. It has the same long-strand fiber found in grass hays, only it has more protein, energy and calcium. In general alfalfa has 120% more energy than oat hay. Our alfalfa hay is very fine stemmed and weed free with lots of color. All sizes of animals love our alfalfa hay including rabbits, goats, sheep, horses and cattle.

Analysis Plants Profile for Phleum pratense (timothy) Britton, N.L., and A. Brown. 1913. An illustrated flora of the northern United States, Canada and the British Possessions. 3 vols. Charles Scribner's Sons, New York. Vol. 1: 191. Provided by Kentucky Native Plant Society . Scanned by Omnitek Inc . Usage Requirements . Hitchcock, A.S. (rev. A. Chase). 1950. Manual of the grasses of the United States . USDA Miscellaneous Publication No. 200. Washington, DC. 1950. Usage Requirements . Selecting the Best Hay for Rabbits - Small Pet Select - Best Hay 0 Selecting the Best Hay for Rabbits Now we all know rabbits eat hay – and lots of it. And we all know that hay is essential for a rabbit’s diet. But one thing that can be a little more challenging, unless you were brought up on a farm, is knowing the difference between good quality hay and that of poor quality and how to choose the best type of hay for rabbits .

Add to that the fact that there are a whole host of different types of hay , and for the novice rabbit owner it can be rather daunting to know if you’re feeding your rabbit the right type. The type of hay that we sell at Small Pet Select is timothy hay , which is a type of grass hay. We select the very best timothy hay possible and deliver it fresh to your door. If you’d like to the video we’ve put together that explains the importance of finding the best hay for rabbits , please see below: So to select the best hay for Rabbits you need to know about hay. In general, there are two different types of hay: Legume Hay and Grass Hay Legume hay includes such types as alfalfa (lucerne) and clover grass. Hays such as these are high in protein, calcium and phosphorous. They are also higher in calories than grass hays. Grass hay includes such types as timothy, bermuda grass, rye grass, orchard grass and blue grass. It’s lower in calories, protein, calcium and phosphorus than legume hay, and higher in fiber.

In general, most rabbits need a good quality grass hay – and the most popular option by far is timothy hay . However, if you’re in a situation where you simply can’t get hold of timothy, then other grass hay or grass hay mixtures will suffice. Legume hay is fed to baby and growing rabbits, pregnant and nursing mothers and any other rabbits that are in need of extra calories – such as aging rabbits that might have problems keeping on weight. Photo by craftybeaver and reproduced under attribution licence courtesy of Creative Commons and Flickr Signs of good quality hay Once you’ve bought your hay, you need to check that it’s of good quality. The following are all quality hay characteristics: — Color is light to dark green. There should little to no yellowing of the stalks — It should smell clean and fragrant. If you chew a strand yourself it should be almost sweet tasting. — The stalks should be pliable and not break easily. — There should be no dust in the hay, or any foreign matter such as rocks, other plants or dirt. — No mold (this appears as black or white spots). Signs of poor quality hay — Has little to no smell. — Very brittle and breaks easily.

— Contains a lot of foreign plants. — Very yellow or brown color. And of course, your rabbits won’t be too keen on eating it if it doesn’t taste too good. Feeding poor quality hay is false economy. It won’t get eaten and you’ll just end up throwing it away, not to mention that you’ll be risking your bunnies not getting adequate fiber in their diet. So it’s simply not worth it. There is enough good quality hay produced for you not to have to put up with hay that simply doesn’t hit the right spot – so if your supplier is letting you down, then it’s time to search for another to find the best hay for rabbits . Till next time – love those bunnies. Oh! And I almost forgot… We’d love it if you’d help us in our mission to make the nation’s small pets the best kept in the world. If you’ve enjoyed this blog then it’d be awesome if you could share it on Twitter or Facebook. And if you fancy leaving a comment then we’d love to hear from you. And if it’s your first time here then be sure to sign up below for your email updates.

We have so much exciting stuff planned, and by signing up you’ll be sure not to miss out. Share Did You Know? | My Horse University My Horse University Horse management based on science, focused on you RESOURCES Hay Analysis: Its Importance and Interpretations CHOOSE THE RIGHT HAY FOR YOUR HORSES Choosing the right hay is important for the nutritional health of your horse. Compared to other nonruminant animals, the horse has a relatively small stomach, normal-sized small intestine and a large hind gut. This digestive arrangement makes the horse better suited to grazing continuously than to having one or two large meals a day. You invest a lot of care and appreciation in your horses, so it is wise to spend some time considering their primary diet -- forages. Left View of the Equine Digestive Anatomy The horse evolved over time to be efficient as a grazing animal thriving on forages. As we adapted the horse for colder climates, the horse was well-suited to thrive on hay and other conserved forages. Many pleasure horses on small acreages subsist on hay 365 days a year, and their only involvement with "pasture" is a place to exercise. (Right) Forage should be the foundation of the horse’s diet.

If necessary, a concentrate (grain mix) may be used to balance for energy and other nutrients required by the horse based on the horse’s classification and type of forage fed. Supplementation above forage and concentrates should only be done if the forage and concentrate portion of the ration still needs to be balanced to meet the vitamin, mineral and protein requirement of the horse. All horses should be provided with clean fresh water and a trace mineral salt block. What are the principles of feeding hay to horses? Entire textbooks are written on this topic, but the basics are: Hay and other roughages provide nutrients and satiety for your horse. On average, a horse must consume about two percent of dry matter of its bodyweight per day (A 1000 lb horse will need to consume 20 lbs of feed on a dry matter basis). Different ages, classes and workloads of horses require different levels of nutrients from hay. All hay is not the same. How should you choose hay? The nutrient needs for your horse can be met in a number of ways.

For example, if you have late-maturity grass hay, no matter if it is timothy, burmudagrass, orchardgrass, or bromegrass, it will be deficient in protein. You can supply protein and energy in the form of concentrate, which can be grain or a processed feed. Problems with this diet include low forage intake - the late maturity grass hay is consumed at a low level, and horses may develop colic or other disorders from consuming high levels of high-starch grains. At the other extreme, full access to early bloom alfalfa hay can lead to weight problems in lightly-used pleasure horses, due to the high intake potential of the alfalfa. In both of these examples, it may be difficult to meet the horse's daily nutrient demands consistently, and behavioral problems associated with boredom can occur. The compromise for many U.S. horses is a good quality grass-alfalfa mix hay. Some common forage species fed as hay to horses include the following: Timothy Hay Timothy hay is one of the most popular hays fed to horses. It can be quite expensive, depending on whether it has to be shipped long distances.

Timothy must be harvested in the pre- or early-bloom stage to ensure a high nutrient content. The first cutting usually has a higher weed content, and quality decreases after the second cutting, so the second cutting is usually the best to feed. Other cool grass hays with similar nutritional characteristics are orchardgrass and bromegrass which is predominate in the north central United States. (Right: Timothy Hay) Source: Charles T. Bryson, USDA Agricultural Research Service, Bugwood.org Oat Hay Oat hay is an excellent feed for horses. The choice between alfalfa and oat hay depends on price per unit of energy or protein and the type of horse being fed. Depending on the area of the country in which it is grown, oat hay can be low in protein and contain only marginal calcium, phosphorus, and carotene. (Right: Oat hay) Oat Hay Harvest in the Field Alfalfa Hay Alfalfa hay is one of the best legume hays fed to horses. Legumes are higher in protein, energy, calcium, and vitamin A than grass hay. Most horses will readily consume alfalfa hay.

However, because of its high palatability, intake must be restricted to keep horses from overeating and becoming colicky. Alfalfa hay has 120 percent more energy per unit in weight than oat hay. Therefore, it takes less hay to meet a horse's nutrient needs when feeding alfalfa hay. However, the high-energy content may lead to overfeeding and to a fat horse. If cured correctly, vitamin C content will be high. The calcium:phosphorus ratio is about 6:1 and must be considered when feeding young, growing horses. A mixture of legume and grass plants is the best type of hay to use for some horses or geographical areas. Alfalfa plants in bloom Source: Howard F. Schwartz, Colorado State University, Bugwood.org Clover and Grass Hay Clover hays are similar to alfalfa hays because they are legumes. Clover hay is usually mixed with grass hays. There are five kinds of clover hay: red, common white, crimson, alsike, and landino. White and landino clovers are usually grown for pasture. The other three contain 14 to 16 percent crude protein. Red clover causes "slobbers" in horses.

Slobbers is excessive salivation that does not hurt the horse. Red Clover Source: Richard Old, XID Services, Inc., Bugwood.org EVALUATING HORSE HAY Any of the common hays discussed above can be fed to horses, but what's most important is nutrient value in relation to the cost of the hay. A good understanding of the factors that affect hay production and what to look for when buying hay will help you select high quality hay that meets your horse’s nutritional needs. To evaluate the quality of hay, the following questions should be considered: 1. At what stage was the hay harvested? Nutrient value largely depends on the age at which the hay was harvested. Early maturity hay is very leafy and has a high nutrient density and palatability. Late maturity hay contains coarse, thick stems and fewer leaves than early maturity hay. As plants mature and reach the reproductive stage of development, their protein content, digestibility, and palatability decline. The ratio of stem to leaf increases with maturity, so the plant has a higher fiber content. Maximum nutrient content can be obtained by harvesting legumes when a few flowers start to appear.

Grasses are harvested when the seed heads begin to appear, and grain hays when the grain is in the soft-dough stage. Hay type should be matched to the horse type. Early maturity hay would be perfect for growing horses and lactating mares, but it may not be the best choice for horses with low nutrient requirements. Mid- to late-maturity hays are best for horses with low nutrient requirements, because the horses can eat more to satisfy their appetites without overeating and becoming fat. Horse owners also ask whether first or second-cut hay is better. There is more variation within a cutting than between cuttings. First-cut hay is often discriminated against for several reasons -- rain damage or rain delays make hay harvest occur at advanced maturity, and there may be more weeds present. One problem with late first-cut mixed hays is course steminess of both alfalfa and grasses, resulting in reduced intake of the grass. Second-cutting hay can generally be put up without rain delays. However, overly-mature second-cut hay can still be less palatable and nutritious. The best bet is to view the hay, see its condition and ask for a hay analysis.

Any of the common hays discussed above can be fed to horses, but what's most important is nutrient value in relation to the cost of the hay. A good understanding of the factors that affect hay production and what to look for when buying hay will help you select high quality hay that meets your horse’s nutritional needs. Visually inspecting hay for texture, cleanliness and odor will help determine overall quality and suitability. Source: Photo courtesy of USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service. 2. How many leaves and stems are present? Harvesting procedures can affect the leaf content. Excessive movement of the hay during the drying process can shatter the leaves. Overdried hay will lose its leaves when baled. Stem content is related to the age at which the plant was harvested. The ratio of stem to leaf increases as age increases so that the hay has a higher fiber content. In addition, rainfall at the proper time during the growing season will affect hay quality. Drought conditions result in stunted growth and fewer leaves. Excessive moisture often leads to diseases that decrease leaf production. Alfalfa leaves are on the left and grass leaves are shown on the right. 3. Is the hay free of dust, mold, and weeds?

Clean hay is the best hay for horses. Mold and dust can inflame the respiratory tract and impair breathing. Many horses can develop permanent lung damage after consuming moldy or dusty hay. Heaves is a common respiratory problem that occurs when a horse consumes moldy or dusty hay. Mold can also cause digestive upsets in the horse. Weeds are undesirable in hays because they are low in digestibility and acceptability by the horse. In some cases they may also be poisonous. Many times, hay will not be consumed by the horse if weeds are present. Hoary alyssum is a weed that is toxic to horses and is most common in Midwestern fields. Source: Catherine Herms, Ohio State University / OARDC, Bugwood.org. For more information on Hoary alyssum, read the Michigan State University Extension bulletin Identification, Livestock Toxicity and Control of Hoary Alyssum in Christmas Tree Plantations and Forages (E2978). 4. Is the hay free of insects? Alfalfa hay may be infected with blister beetles. When a horse eats a blister beetle, a chemical in the beetle causes colic, fever, and eventually death.

Historically, blister beetles have been most abundant in arid regions of the U.S. where grasshoppers are abundant almost every year. Unfortunately, there is no sampling method that can detect toxic levels of blister beetles in cured hay. For more information on blister beetles and how to prevent blister-beetle toxicity, go to the University of Kentucky Entomology web site . There are many varieties of blister beetles. The toxicity level of this beetle is dependent on the species and sex, with striped male beetles being the most toxic. Source: Clemson University - USDA Cooperative Extension Slide Series, Bugwood.org. 5. Is the hay weathered? Weather conditions affect field-cured hay--hay that is left out in the field to dry after it has been cut. Rain and excessive sunlight reduce the quality of hay by reducing the nutrient content. Rain beats the leaves from legumes, leaches out soluble carbohydrates, and packs the hay so it doesn't dry properly. If hay is baled when it is too moist, it will become moldy and have a musty, moldy odor. Excessive sunlight will bleach the color of the leaves and causes a loss of vitamin A.

If hay is cured too slowly, hay will ferment and lose its nutrient content. The ideal moisture content of hay when it is baled is 12 to 18 percent moisture. Excessive moisture due to rain can cause the hay to mold when it is baled or processed. Dry weather is critical for harvesting quality hay. Cutting the hay is the first step in harvesting. Source: Photo courtesy of USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service. HAY ANALYSIS: ITS IMPORTANCE AND INTERPRETATIONS Having your hay analyzed is a great idea. It is the only way to determine the actual nutrient content of the hay. It is important to know this so that you can be sure your horse is consuming an adequate diet. You may or may not need to feed grain, depending on the quality of your hay. The better the quality of the hay you feed, the less grain you will need to feed. This can be a significant savings. In order to have your hay analyzed chemically, you will need to get a hay sample. Use a core sampler and try to sample from at least 20 to 25 different bales. Be sure to penetrate into the center of the bale with the core sampler.

If you do not have experience in hay sampling, see your county extension office for information on how to use the core sampler or to borrow one. Mix the samples together and then put them in a tight, clean, plastic bag or the bags that the forage testing lab provides. Mail the bag to the forage testing lab as soon as possible and have it analyzed. A representative hay sample must be taken with a hay probe on a variety of bales in a hay lot. For more information on hay analysis, visit Equi-analytical Laboratories . Interpreting Hay Analysis Results Interpreting your hay analysis results may not be the easiest part of this process. If you cannot determine what the results mean, you may want to consult an extension specialist in forage crops or agronomy at your county extension center, an animal scientist or a county extension agent. Some of the main things to focus on when you see the analysis reports are: Dry Matter (DM)– This tells you how much of the sample is left after water is removed. It is the moisture or dry matter content of the sample. Hay will generally be about 89 percent dry matter or greater. Digestible energy (DE) – This is a measure of the digestible energy in the hay.

For a light-working horse, DE should be 20.5 Mcal/day. Hay may have .76 to .94 Mcal/pounds or higher of DE. Total Digestible Nutrients (TDN) - This is a measure of the total digestible nutrients in the hay or its energy value. TDN may be used in place of DE or offered in addition to DE. It may range from 40 to 55 percent. Crude Protein (CP)– This is a measure of the protein concentration of the hay and can range from 6 percent to 8 percent in native grass hays to about 15 percent or higher in high quality legume hays. Neutral Detergent Fiber (NDF) – This is a measure of the plant’s cell wall content, shown as a percent. The higher this is, the less hay the horse will eat. Acid Detergent Fiber (ADF) – This is a measure of the fiber concentration of the hay, shown as a percent. As ADF increases, digestibility and nutrient availability decreases. Non-Structural Carbohydrates (NSC) – This is a measure of the non-structural carbohydrates in the feed.

If your horse has Cushing’s disease or is prone to colic or laminitis, you want to select hay with a lower NSC value. Timothy and alfalfa hay may have a 15 percent or 20 percent NSC value, respectively. If you want this analysis done, you should check to see if the lab offers it, as it is not a common analysis at this time. Starch and Sugar- This is a measure of sugars and starches in the feed. You should feed no more than 15 percent of total daily calories from starch and sugar to horses with EPSM (equine polysaccharide storage myopathy) and PSSM (polysaccharide storage myopathy). EPSM is a muscle disease found in over 100 draft breeds that may cause severe weakness and muscle wasting in horses of all ages, poor performance, abnormal hind limb gaits and shivers, in which the muscles keep twitching. PSSM is a muscle disease found in horses with Quarter Horse in their breeding, such as American Quarter Horses, Paints and Appaloosas. Symptoms include reluctance to move, muscle stiffness, sweating, shifting lameness and tremors in the flank area.

Now you know some basics about analyzing hay. Be sure to consult your county extension agents or state specialists for help if you are not sure how to apply these results. By analyzing your hay, you will be able to feed your horse more effectively and efficiently. Near Infrared Spectroanalysis (NIRS) used for feed analysis. Forms of Hay Hay comes in several forms—baled, wafered (also referred to as cubed), and pelleted. Baled hay is the most commonly used. It is usually less expensive than processed hay. Long stem roughage is also best for gut motility. Small hay bales with an average weight of 50 lbs. are usually bought for horse hay. Small bales are easy to move manually and can be stored easily. Small square bales are commonly fed to horses. A bale may range in weight between 40 – 75 lbs. Round bales weigh an average of 1000 lbs. and require special equipment for movement. Round bales must be stored under cover to prevent loss from mold. In addition, round bales need to be fed to groups of horses (seven to ten can eat the bale in three to four days’ time).

To decrease waste loss, round bales should be fed in round bale feeders designed for horses. Round bales are usually cheaper per pound to purchase and can save on feed labor and costs if they are managed to limit hay waste. Round bales typicall weigh 1000lbs. Round bales should be fed in feeders specifically designed for horses to decrease wastage and ensure the horse's safety. There may be times when baled hay is hard to locate or not practical to feed. Hay cubes (wafered hay) or hay pellets can decrease hay waste and provide the needed roughage in a horse’s diet. However, horses will tend to eat processed hay faster, particularly when it is in pelleted form. Processed hay is sold by the type of forage processed. Hay cubes and pellets are available in alfalfa, grass, or alfalfa/grass mixes. A well-made cubed hay is easy to chew and should not need to be broken to avoid choking, if your are feeding healthy horses with good dental hygiene. Pelleted hay, while providing the needed fiber for the diet, is eaten more quickly than baled hay; and thus a horse may become bored and be more prone to wood chewing or other abnormal behaviors.

In times of hay shortages, it is best if hay is rationed out and extended with supplemental hay pellets to ensure there is some long-stem roughage for gut stimulation. Alfalfa pellets are on the left and alfalfa cubes are shown on the right. Hay pellets provide dietary fiber, but are consumed much faster than long stemmed forage. Purchasing Hay Get to know your hay producer and stick with a good one. Some commercial producers will provide a hay analysis and bale weights. Hay in small rectangular bales sells more per ton than large round or square bales, because the hay producer goes through the effort of handling, stacking, covering (many do), hauling and dealing with small lots of hay and many diverse customers. Good hay buyer-seller relationships will provide trust, respect, prompt payments and consistent hay supplies. Once the hay is home, place it under a shed or tarp it to preserve its quality. Purchasing a year’s supply of hay at one time will reduce shipping and labor costs, allow the owner to buy when prices are lowest, and supply a more consistent forage year round.

Hay Storage Hay should be put under a roof to avoid exposure to sun and rain, but the area should also have good ventilation to reduce the occurrence of mold. The bottom row of hay should be raised off the ground with boards or pallets to allow for air circulation and to ensure the hay stays dry. Similarly, hay stacked below/slightly away from ridge vents allow for upper ventilation. Hay will lose nutritional value the longer it is stored. However, hay can be fed the second year after it is cut as long as it is dry and free from mold. The lower the moisture content the longer it can be stored with less chance of mold and spoilage. Less than 20% moisture content is desirable. It is common to store hay in a loft over the stabling area of the horses. However, a mass of hay can reduce air ventilation in the barn environment if it inhibits peak ventilation of the barn roof. In addition, large quantities of hay stored in the stabling area are a fire hazard. Dry hay is not only highly combustible, but hay stored wet can also build heat through fermentation and spontaneously catch fire. Many insurance companies will give farms rate reductions if hay is stored in a separate building.

Hay should be stored under a roof and raised off the ground to ensure that the hay stays dry. Additional Resources Cash, Dennis. Choose the Right Hay for Your Horses. (2007). eXtension HorseQuest News. Griffin, Ashley. Factors that Affect Hay Quality. (2009). eXtension HorseQuest Article. Griffin, Ashley. Hays for Horses and Their Characteristics. (2009). eXtension HorseQuest Article. Griffin, Ashley. Selecting Horse Hay. (2010). eXtension HorseQuest Article. Horse Hay. eXtension HorseQuest Learning Lesson. Horse Hay Publications. eXtension HorseQuest Article. Martinson, K. and P. Peterson. Selecting and Storing Horse Hay. (2007). University of Minnesota Fact Sheet. Nadeau, Jenifer. Hay Analysis: Its Importance and Interpretation. (2011) . eXtension HorseQuest Article. National Research Council. Nutrient Requirements of Horses. (1989). National Academy Press, Washington, D.C. Wright, Bob W. Hay.

Haylage and Treated Hay for Horses. (Sept. 2004) Online fact sheet. Ontario Ministry of Agriculture and Food. Timothy Grass Seed | Seed for Horses, Cattle and Hay | Hancock Seed Home :: Seed Varieties :: Timothy Grass Seed Timothy Grass Seed Timothy Grass Seed - Timothy grass is a perennial bunch grass with shallow & fibrous roots used for pasture, hay production and forage for horses, cattle and livestock. Timothy grass is best adapted to northern (cold) cooler climates and may be planted with clovers, alfalfa and other legumes for food plots for deer and other wildlife. Timothy grass performs well in moister areas and is very tolerant to acidity. Timothy Grass is well suited for use in pastures, rotational grazing, hay, conservation, erosion control and silage in the north eastern and north central climates in the US. Varieties including Climax and Claire are common for pastures and affordable for seeding. Bermuda Grass Pictures: Photos for Identification and Comparison Bermuda Grass Pictures Bermuda grass pictures can be helpful for selecting a common lawn grass or eliminating a troublesome weed. Many people find a weed invading their lawn or garden areas and want to verify its identity before they try to get rid of it.

Other people are looking for a particular variety of lawn grass that is suitable to their location. The difference in these two needs requires a slightly different approach to photos. Do you need to see photos of bermuda grass? What does it look like compared to crabgrass? The primary focus of this material will be identifying unwanted bermuda grass, for purposes of getting rid of it. This is the most common request I get from gardeners or homeowners regarding this two-faced plant. Let's look at the various features which can confirm your diagnosis. Bermuda Grass: Pictures of Runners or Stolons The runners of bermuda grass are the most typical feature that people recognize. It is also the most common reason why they don’t like it. Common bermuda can be very invasive. It puts down roots from the nodes or joints as it spreads, which is why it is difficult to pull up. This same tendency however is an advantage for areas where the lawn is prone to develop bare spots from kids, pets or certain activities. Bermuda grass is one of the few grass types that can self-repair a lawn. Bermuda Grass: Pictures of Rhizomes (Underground Runners) These are not roots.

Rhizomes serve 2 purposes, reproduction and survival. They spread out from the base of a mature plant and find a new area to grow. They may spread just a few inches before surfacing to start a new plant. They can also travel dozens of feet, under plastic sheeting or driveways before they find an opening to get above ground. Rhizomes can also be the plant’s survival mode. If the top growth dies off for any reason, the underground shoot often survives and can remain viable for years. When conditions are right, it pushes out new growth to the surface to start a new plant. A small portion of a shoot left in the ground can be enough to regenerate. Bermuda Grass: Pictures Compared to Crabgrass Bermuda grass is often confused with crabgrass, or the names may be used interchangeably. These bermuda grass pictures show how the crab grass has a wider leaf structure than the bermuda. The bermuda grass pictured will become dense by establishing many small plants as the runners go out. The crabgrass will be a dense single plant that sprawls. See more pictures and information at these two pages: Crabgrass Pictures and How To Identify Crabgrass.

Bermuda Grass: Pictures of Seed Stalks Bermuda grass puts up seed stalks throughout the growing season. These are worrisome to folks who wish to avoid an invasion in other areas. Though the seed pictures here are indicative of bermuda grass, they are not unique. Crabgrass has a similar seed appearance, usually larger, but it fluctuates depending on growing conditions. Bermuda Grass: Pictures of Low Growing and Taller Grass Bermuda grass is more versatile than many grasses. In accommodates a wide range of mowing heights and adapts its growth pattern accordingly. If mowed less than 1”, it spreads rapidly, remains prostrate, gets very dense with little spacing between the leaf blades and will tend to have a more consistent color. If mowed higher, the leaf blades are more spread out, the turf is not so dense. The tops of the grass will sometimes be darker green than the lower portion which is shaded. This can make the over-all coloring appear sporadic or less intense. Bermuda Grass: Pictures Of Common Bermuda Mixed With Other Lawn Grass Types Common bermuda grass often infiltrates lawns of other grass species. This can be bad, good or indifferent for different situations.

Lawns that have heavy traffic or kids or dogs present can benefit from the ability of bermuda grass to spread and fill in. If it becomes dominant, the bermuda presents a problem when it goes dormant in cold weather and the appearance of the lawn suffers. Want To See More Common Bermuda Grass Pictures and Information? Anyone who investigates this topic with the intention of getting rid of bermuda grass from their lawn or garden will benefit from the recent addition of these two documents to the Garden Counselor site. Go to Bermuda Grass: Identify and Compare. This detailed article gives in-depth information on the appearance and growing habits of common bermuda grass. Go to How To Kill Bermuda Grass Here we offer a lengthy article on what you need to do to completely remove weed bermuda from a yard area before planting a new lawn. This is part of series that will cover other topics as well, such as how to control or suppress bermuda in an existing lawn, and in other yard situations. Bermuda Grass: Pictures Of Hybrid Varieties For Lawns Are you considering bermuda grass as your lawn grass of choice? Common bermuda will work but some of the negative characteristics can be avoided with a bermuda hybrid.

Many hybrid varieties of bermuda grass have been developed. Each has characteristics that make it best suited for slightly different growing conditions or applications. In most cases the hybrid varieties do not put out seed stalks and they are slower to put out runners. This makes them less invasive and an excellent choice for many lawn areas. They tend to look best when mowed short with a reel type lawnmower, rather than the typical rotary mower. These can only be established from sod, plugs or stolons. I am in the process of compiling photos of typical lawn varieties. Until those are prepared, you can check out Seedland.com as a source of good photos of hybrid bermuda photos. I haven’t had any dealings with them for ordering product, but you may find their pictures and descriptions helpful if you are considering a bermuda lawn. Hopefully these bermuda grass pictures and descriptions have provided the information you need to make an accurate identification. Do you have any remaining questions or lingering doubts about your garden project or problem? Please don't hesitate to contact the Garden Counselor for a free, personalized review of your situation. We’ll be glad to help and clarify your options on any lawn or garden question. Thanks for visiting.

I hope you'll share the site with your friends and neighbors. (Except the guy who is always bragging about his trophy landscape?) We’d love to help any way we can. SPONSORED LINKS San Diego House Rabbit Society Download the full size image here back to top All About Hay Bunnies love and need fresh hay! Be sure to provide an unlimited supply for them to nibble at all times. Hay fiber is the best defense against intestinal blockages and teeth issues. SDHRS offers freshly packed boxes of hay at reasonable prices. For just $15 a box, you get about 7-8 lbs. of nicely mixed hays (timothy, orchard, oat or three-way (grain) and sometimes a bit of alfalfa). You can purchase our hay at these locations: Hay Sale Outlets Plan ahead. Don't let your hay supply run out before purchasing more! Timothy Hay Timothy hay is the most-recommended hay for rabbits. It looks like a dried blades of grass, fairly wide and its color is a soft green to grey/brown green.

Timothy hay also has "solid cattails" which distinguishes it from Orchard grass which has "broken cattails." Much of the Timothy is imported from Northern states (Oregon or Washington). Timothy hay is included in all of our mixed boxed hay. Orchard Grass Hay Orchard grass hay is very similar in appearance to Timothy but the "cattails" have small segments missing from them every 1/32 of an inch. Also the cattails tend to be pale brown, whereas Timothy cattails are green to light yellow. Orchard Grass makes a large part of the hay boxes we pack for the community. Oat Hay Oat hay consists of large hollow cylindrical stalks and flat blades that are golden yellow to light green with oats on the end. The coloration and the presence of oats distinguishes this hay from others. Oat hay can vary widely in appearance and oat count, depending on the harvest season. New harvests are generally oat laden, whereas later harvest such as Dec-Feb can be very light, with minimal oats. Many people confuse Oat hay with Straw. The similarity is in the coloration.

Straw is not a food source, but is typically used for bedding, mostly in the horse and farming communities. Oat hay is an excellent source of fiber. Bunnies tend to enjoy mostly the oats, but will sporadically munch on the hay stalks.If bun's diet is high in oat hay, the pellets she produces will be larger, lighter in color, and will look like sawdust if crushed. Many bunnies would benefit from eating more oat hay, an excellent preventative for GI Stasis. SDHRS boxed hay may contain oat hay or other fiber rich types to provide variety. Bermuda Hay Bermuda grass hay is a good all around food source with a moderate amount of calories. Bermuda grass contains the same nutritional content as Timothy or Orchard grass, so these can be fed interchangeably. The thing about Bermuda grass is that rabbits don't care for it very much. They don't find it as appealing as Orchard or Timothy hays. Alfalfa Hay Alfalfa hay is distinguished by stalks, usually brittle and flat green to brown leaves. Very high in calcium, can cause "sludge" in bunny's urine. High calories.

Watch for gummy droppings, weight gain, sludge, and cecal pellets not being eaten. These are usually problems of the older (2+ yr. bunny). Hay can vary from dark lime green to yellow/green/brown depending on the season. There is almost always some alfalfa in SDHRS boxed hay. Alfalfa is easy to come by in San Diego County. Many horse people feed alfalfa, but a strict alfalfa diet for bunnies can lead to some of the problems listed above. SDHRS recommends a mixture of hay varieties and "not" a diet high in alfalfa hay. back to top Fresh Greens San Diego House Rabbit Society recommends, in their general dietary guidelines, a small amount of fresh greens, daily. This is to supplement your rabbit's primary diet of hay. General guidelines are to give about 1 cup of greens for each 4 lbs. of body weight, per day. Select four to six types of greens to give at each feeding. This gives your rabbit a diet varied in vitamins and minerals. If you're not sure that your rabbit has been given greens in the past, and/or your rabbit is under 4 months old, give greens slowly at first.

Start with one green item at a time, checking to ensure it does not cause digestive upset and soft stools. Eliminate anything not tolerated by your rabbit. You'll want to tailor these guidelines (with your vet's assistance) to meet your rabbit's specific dietary requirements based on his health or sensitivity to certain foods. Fruits and carrots are considered treat foods. These should be given very sparingly, at most only 2 or 3 times per week and in only very small quantities (2 inch chunk or 1 inch slice). Fruits can include blueberries, apple, pear, strawberries (esp. their tops). Sweeter fruits such as grapes and bananas should be given few and far between; they are very sweet and will lead to obesity. Dried fruits have concentrated sugars so should be given in only very tiny pieces and only sparingly. We really don't recommend them on a regular basis. If you give dried papayas or cranberries, for example, they should get only 2 small pieces a couple times per week - at most. Again, only if your rabbit is very healthy and not overweight. Bunnies have a sweet tooth and if left to their own devices will devour sugary foods to the exclusion of healthful ones.

It's up to you to make sure your rabbit's diet is healthy. After all, they don't have the option of shopping for themselves, so they depend on you to feed them foods that help them to live long and healthy lives. Choose from these greens: Basil (sweet, lemon, or purple) Beet Greens (tops) Broccoli (eliminate if your rabbit has a tendency to get gassy) Brussels sprouts (eliminate if your rabbit has a tendency to get gassy) Carrot & carrot tops (tops can be given with greens, carrot should be given as a treat) Celery (cut into small pieces to eliminate long strings) Cilantro Strawberries Watermelon Absolutely NO chocolate (poisonous!), cookies, crackers, breakfast cereals, bread, pasta, yogurt drops, or other "human treats." There is research to suggest these items may contribute to fatal cases of enterotoxaemia, a toxic overgrowth of "bad" bacteria in the intestinal tract.

back to top The Place of Pellets Rabbit pellets, known for their ease of feeding and rapid weight gain, were originally developed for the rabbit "livestock" market, where rabbits are raised for their meat or fur and not intended to live out their potential lifespan of 8 to 12 years. For house rabbits, however, diets high in pellets can contribute to obesity, chronic soft stools and overproduction of cecotropes. For the house rabbit who is expected to live 10 years or longer, and may not get enough exercise, a diet that is primarily high in fiber and low in calories is preferred to maintain a healthy weight. And, don't forget plenty of fresh water every day, in a crock or crock & water bottle. Other problems that can occur with a pelleted diet, is that the pellets most commonly available through pet supply stores are not ones that promote good health. Often, these pellets are too high in calcium and protein, contain too much sugar (many contain molasses as a binder), and some manufacturers have even added several dangerous additives to their pellets such as corn, seeds, and dried fruits that clearly cause obesity in house rabbits.

Rabbits should get a "plain" pellet that is high in fiber, low in protein and calcium, and does not contain any added seeds or dried fruits. At the San Diego House Rabbit Society, we typically recommend feeding a limited amount of pellets. And, we recommend sticking to pellets that are high in fiber and low in protein, such as Oxbow's Bunny Basics T or Zupreem Nature's Promise (both made from timothy hay) for a maintenance diet, or Purina Fibre3 (high-fiber alfalfa pellets) for young, growing bunnies or older bunnies who need to keep on weight. We concur with Dr. Susan Brown (see her article on Rabbit Nutrition) that a typical diet should consist of 1/8 cup pellets per 4 pounds of weight. Young rabbits, still developing muscle and bone, do need to eat pellets but keeping them high-quality will help them to add normal weight without becoming obese. Good options for youngsters are Oxbow 15/23, American Pet Diner alfalfa, or Purina Fibre3. Once bunny reaches about 8 months old, they can be transitioned to a Timothy-based pellet that helps to maintain a healthy weight.

Recommended quantities are: 2-4 lb rabbit: ⅛ cup per day 5 -7 lb rabbit: ¼ cup per day 8-10 lb rabbit: ½ cup per day 11 - 15 lb rabbit: ¾ cup per day Many adult rabbits don't even need pellets to maintain a healthy weight. If your rabbit is overweight, then certainly limiting or omitting pellets can help to get bunny back on track. Check with your veterinarian to determine your rabbit's individual pellet needs. If your veterinarian advises the feeding of pellets to your rabbit, San Diego HRS recommends the following: Growing youngsters and geriatric bunnies who need to add weight: Purina Fibre3, an alfalfa-based pellet Weight maintenance or weight loss: Oxbow Bunny Basics T or Zupreem, both Timothy-based pellets. back to top Good & Bad Treats Who can resist that funny bunny face when it's begging for treats? Not me, and not you either! We all want to give the occasional reward of a "treat" to our rabbits, especially when they are being so cute. The trick is what you feed them and to not overdo it. Feeding too many treats leads to obesity and health problems.

Sugary treats can cause dental disease and dysbiosis (an intestinal condition where overgrowth of bacteria causes diarrhea and gas). It's the opinion of San Diego HRS chapter managers that treats should consist of natural foods such as fragrant herbs, hay-based cookies that contain only the smallest amounts of fruit) or chewing treats such as timothy hay cubes or willow balls. We do not condone the feeding of sugary treats (on a regular basis) such as dried papaya, cranberries (unless for urinary tract issues), mango, raisins, etc. Dried fruits have concentrated sugars which can lead to dental decay and obesity. They can also cause diarrhea in a rabbit. Treats found in most pet stores are not very good either. Many contain dried fruits, nuts, seeds, honey, sugar and yogurt. All can lead to long-term health problems and obesity. We DO sell treats in the SDHRS Bunny Store. They include the following, which we consider to be a healthier alternative to most commonly found treats: Flopper's Garen Organics: Organic Crackers, Kale Chips, Willow Rings, and Herbal Sprinkles Tigertail Bunny Cookies

Question: Timothy, Bermuda and Kangaroo are all types of what?
Answer: Grass