Blanket stitch - Definition and synonyms of blanket stitch in the English dictionary. Translation of blanket stitch to 20 languages. blanket stitch Meaning of blanket stitch in the English dictionary DICTIONARY GRAMMATICAL CATEGORY OF BLANKET STITCH noun exclamation Blanket stitch is a noun. A noun is a type of word the meaning of which determines reality. Nouns provide the names for all things: people, objects, sensations, feelings, etc. WHAT DOES BLANKET STITCH MEAN IN ENGLISH? Blanket stitch The blanket stitch is a stitch used to reinforce the edge of thick materials. Depending on circumstances, it may also be called a whip stitch or a crochet stitch. It is defined as "A decorative stitch used to finish an unhemmed blanket. The stitch can be seen on both sides of the blanket."... Read more Definition of blanket stitch in the English dictionary The definition of blanket stitch in the dictionary is a strong reinforcing stitch for the edges of blankets and other thick material.

ENGLISH WORDS THAT BEGIN LIKE BLANKET STITCH Synonyms and antonyms of blanket stitch in the English dictionary of synonyms SYNONYMS WORDS RELATING TO «BLANKET STITCH» blanket stitch blanket stitch knitting embroidery directions sewing machine fleece applique crochet used reinforce edge thick materials depending circumstances also called whip defined decorative holiday crafts creations start your first true poke needle down from photo this should about over where thread came steps wikihow school today talking surprise here make towel back side sarah hand tutorials often confused with buttonhole rather said that oftern futuregirl craft blog tutorial felt using post actually contains involving blankets pieces together pinterest discover pins more stitches brazilian needlepoint crafty mummy learn instructions photos help than trim stich these easy follow step embroidering create edging surface Translation of «blanket stitch» into 20 languages TRANSLATOR TRANSLATION OF BLANKET STITCH Find out the translation of blanket stitch to 20 languages with our English multilingual translator . The translations of blanket stitch from English to other languages presented in this section have been obtained through automatic statistical translation; where the essential translation unit is the word «blanket stitch» in English.

List of principal searches undertaken by users to access our English online dictionary and most widely used expressions with the word «blanket stitch». FREQUENCY OF USE OF THE TERM «BLANKET STITCH» OVER TIME The graph expresses the annual evolution of the frequency of use of the word «blanket stitch» during the past 500 years. Its implementation is based on analysing how often the term «blanket stitch» appears in digitalised printed sources in English between the year 1500 and the present day. Examples of use in the English literature, quotes and news about blanket stitch EXAMPLES 10 ENGLISH BOOKS RELATING TO «BLANKET STITCH» Discover the use of blanket stitch in the following bibliographical selection. Books relating to blanket stitch and brief extracts from same to provide context of its use in English literature. 1 Blanket Stitch Quilts: 12 Stunning Projects for Simple ... Readers can choose from eight original quilt designs, plus 4 small co-ordinating projects, each employing Lynne Edwards' fantastic applique technique. Lynne Edwards, 2012 10 Irresistible Embroidered Bags Take the needle from the center to the edge.

Ensure the thread is under the needle. 4. Continue working stitches around the circle, gradually turning the fabric as you work. blanket stitch REQUIREMENTS Fabric 30cm x 40cm wide (12 " x 16") ... Marian Carpenter, 2007 10 NEWS ITEMS WHICH INCLUDE THE TERM «BLANKET STITCH» Find out what the national and international press are talking about and how the term blanket stitch is used in the context of the following news items. 1 Hope ripples for marriage equality in Northern Ireland There was even some sewing, during which I learned how to finish the edges of something, presumably a blanket, with blanket stitch. I vaguely ... «IrishCentral, Jun 15» 2 Girl Scouts become pets' best friends Dean reveled in not only the blanket stitch but the whole bed. “I learned how to make a dog bed out of a sweater,” she told Rogers. “After all, it's ... «Half Moon Bay Review, May 15» 3 Made It: Blanket Stitch Fleece Throw Aimee Misovich is a wife, mom and volunteer. She enjoys being thrifty and creative in ways that positively impact the lives of her family, friends ...

«Holland Sentinel, May 15» 4 Shear Warmth: Former hairdresser's wool dream becomes reality There is natural, which Neeson says is very popular; egg shell blue, and lavender, with each blanket edged either in blanket stitch or with a ... «Taranaki Daily News, Apr 15» 5 Wool dream becomes reality There is natural, which Neeson says is very popular; egg shell blue, and lavender, with each blanket edged either in blanket stitch or with a satin edging. «The Dominion Post, Mar 15» 6 Hobbies: Adorable owl pillow a quick and easy project 8. Now that the appliques are dry, it's time to stitch around their edges. We have a cute blanket stitch on our sewing machine, so we chose that. «The Detroit News, Mar 15» 7 'Natural' Childbirth: Taking Motherhood from the New Age Back to … ... and that of their child – not because a surgeon just happened to be at a loose end and fancied practising his blanket stitch on their bikini line.

«Breitbart News, Mar 15» 8 At Home With Vivian: Old book, new memories The twelve-square quilt has a different calico animal sewn with a blanket stitch into the center of each white square. The hand quilted backing ... «Martinez News-Gazette, Mar 15» 9 DIY Valentine Small Quilt Tutorial I used blanket stitch so it's a bit decorative. I had made some tubes for the back and quite frankly, I pinned them on for the final picture. I will sew ... «ChicagoNow, Feb 15» 10 Let's Cuddle With Sheep, Llamas and Goats at Fiber Arts Festival The 12:30 class will explain and demonstrate the blanket stitch on flannel fabric. Participants will learn the proper technique of holding crotchet ... «HottyToddy.com, Jan 15» REFERENCE Embroidery Stitches Embroidery Stitches Embroidery Stitches DMC’s General Stitching Tips: Prevent the thread from twisting while you stitch by turning your needle a slight quarter to half turn with each stitch.

If your thread gets twisted while stitching, drop the threaded needle and let it hang freely until it “unwinds.” Avoid running the thread across the back of the fabric to go to a new stitching area. Instead, start and stop in each section to assure that running threads don’t show through on the front side of the fabric. Keep your hands clean and avoid handling food and drinks when you stitch. Mark dots for uniform stitch size; to achieve uniform stitch size, use a ruler or tape measure to mark tiny evenly spaced dots along the stitching line. You will learn to gauge stitch distances with experience. Stab “up and down.” When working with your fabric in a hoop it is preferable to stab the needle vertically up and down through the fabric when making each stitch. Keep your tension even. To create smooth uniform stitches, pull each stitch with the same amount of tension. If the stitch is too loose the stitch will appear limp and if the stitch is pulled too tightly the fabric will pucker and cause the design to become distorted. Learn how to use both hands when stitching. Learning how to manipulate the needle takes practice and learning how to hold a hoop while stitching takes time.

Sometimes both hands are necessary to complete a stitch and the hand holding the hoop must be used to assist in keeping a loop in place while the other hand stitches. A floor or table stand allows you to keep both hands free for stitching. If you find it difficult to use both hands while trying to hold a hoop, try using a stand. Embroidery Stitch Guide The stitches are grouped into four types, each offering different effects and uses for embroidery: Outline – Used for outlining the elements of your design Border – Used to secure edges and to add textural dimension to your design Detached – Used to create decorative details or in mass to fill in open areas of the design Filling – Used to create shading or to solidly fill in a design area Running Stitch Uses: outlining, straight and curved lines. Work from right to left. Bring thread up at 1 then down at 2, up at 3 and down at 4 and continue. The spaces between the stitches can be the same length as the stitches or shorter for a different look. Tips: Keep an even tension and avoid pulling thread or the stitches will pucker. See Laced Running Stitch for a variation of this stitch. Uses: outlining, straight and curved lines. Work from right to left.

Bring needle up at 1 and back down at 2. Move left and bring needle up at 3, then back down at 1. Continue stitching. Tips: Make shorter stitches for curved lines and shapes. Make shorter stitches for curved lines and shapes. Uses: Outlining, straight and curved lines, filling a shape by working rows closely together. Work from left to right. Bring needle up at 1 and down at 2. Bring needle back up at 3, splitting the center of the previous stitch. Take needle down at 4 and then back up at 2. Continue stitching. Make shorter stitches for curvy lines. Use to outline a shape before stitching Satin Stitch to create a raised effect. Stem Stitch Uses: Outlining, straight and curved lines, stems for plants, filling if rows are stitched closely together. Creates a rope like appearance. Work from left to right. Bring needle up at 1 and down at 2. Bring needle back up halfway between 1 and 2 at 3, just slightly above the first stitch. Be sure to keep thread below the needle. Continue stitching Make smaller stitches for curved lines to maintain a rounded smooth look.

Uses: Outlining, straight and curved lines, filling if rows are stitched closely together. Work from top to bottom. Bring needle up at 1 and then reinsert needle in same hole, forming a loop. Bring needle up at 2 and pull thread to tighten loop until desired shape is achieved. Repeat multiple stitches to create a chain. To end the row make a small stitch over the last loop to hold it in place to secure thread on backside. Tip: It is important to keep your thread tension even to create a consistent looking chain. Couching Uses: Outlining shapes, straight and curvy lines, spirals, bold dimensional accents, decorative borders. This stitch involves two threads: a thicker foundation thread, (also called the laid thread) and a thinner thread (called the couching thread). Bring foundation thread onto the front and place along the design line. Bring the couching thread up under the foundation thread and make a tiny stitch over the thread, going back into or very close to the entry hole. Continue making evenly spaced stitches over the foundation thread to anchor the foundation thread in place. To finish couching, bring the foundation thread onto the backside and secure it. Secure couching thread on backside.

Tip: Use a matching colored thread for the couching stitches to blend in or a contrasting color for a bolder look. Use DMC cotton Floss (1 ply) to couch down solid color foundation threads and use DMC Metallic Embroidery Spool Thread (1 ply) to couch down metallic foundation threads. Uses: Straight and gently curved lines, borders and finishing edges. Work from left to right. Bring needle up at 1, down at 2 and up at 3, keeping the thread looped under the needle. Pull thread through and shape stitch as desired. Repeat multiple stitches until complete. Tips: For an even line of stitching keep the height of the stitches even throughout. To vary the look of the stitch, change the height of each stitch making one long and one short. Whip Stitch Uses: is used for seaming fabrics, either right or wrong sides together. The stitches should be about 1/16" apart, and only as deep as necessary to create a firm seam. Bring needle up at 1 and down at 2 making sure to pierce both pieces of fabric to bind together. Bring needle back up at 3 and down 4, continue stitching the seam.

Tip: Leave a tail of thread when you start, and work several stitches over it to secure and hide the thread. Ladder Stitch Uses: Applique, bind two seams together. Bring needle up at 1 and through the fabric a short distance to 2, keeping the thread hidden under the fabric (dashed lines). Bring needle over to 3 and repeat. Only the vertical stitches should show on the front of the fabric. Stitches indicated by dashed lines will be hidden in the base fabric, or in the folds of the appliqué. Continue stitching. Stitch a line of Running Stitches. Bring the lacing thread up at 1 and lace it under the next running stitch. Continue lacing the thread up and down through the running stitches keeping the loops even. To finish the lacing, bring the lacing thread onto the backside under the center of the last stitch. Tip: Use a blunt tip Tapestry needle for the lacing thread. This will help prevent you from piercing the fabric or the Running Stitch threads. Coral Stitch Uses: Decorative borders, foliage, plant stems Working from right to left, hold the working thread to the left of the starting point (or the last stitch).

Insert the needle into the fabric above the working thread and bring the tip of the needle out just under the thread. Wrap the thread around the needle from left to right and pull the needle through the resulting loop. Cross Stitch Uses: Borders and filling if worked in adjacent rows. To stitch a line: Stitching from left to right, bring needle up at 1, down at 2, then up at 3 and down at 4. Continue stitching across to end of line. Start back stitching from right to left, make crosses by bringing the needle up at 5 and down at 6. Continue until all crosses have been stitched. Tip: Be sure to keep the top stitch on the cross the same direction throughout a project. Uses: Border, edging, can be stitched over a ribbon or braid to hold it down. Work from left to right. Bring needle up at 1, and down at 2. Bring needle up at 3 and down at 4 to create an elongated cross stitch. Bring needle up at 5 and continue. Tip: Mark two parallel lines with Water Soluble Pens to keep stitch height uniform. Uses: Border, edging, can be stitched over a ribbon or braid to hold it down.

Work from left to right. Bring needle up at 1, down at 2. Bring the tip of the needle back through the fabric halfway between 1 and 2 at point 3. Bring the needle up to 4 and make a backstitch by bringing your needle up from 5 down at 6. Bring the tip of your needle back through the fabric halfway between 5 and 6 at point 7. Bring your needle down at 8 and repeat the stitching sequence. Tip: Mark two parallel lines with Water Soluble Pens to keep stitch height uniform. Cloud Filling Stitch Uses: Filling in spaces Lay a groundwork of small, evenly spaced vertical stitches, alternating the placement of the stitches as shown in the diagram. Weave your thicker secondary thread through the network of stitches in rows. When starting from the right, thread the needle under the first vertical stitch, then bring tour needle through the vertical stitch to the lower right. Next, thread your needle under the next vertical stitch to the upper right. Continue stitching in a zig-zag motion to the end of the row. Work the next row in the opposite direction.

Tip: Use an embroidery hoop to keep your tension even throughout, and don’t pull too tightly when weaving your secondary thread through your vertical stitches. Uses: Decorative border edges, seam embellishment, foliage and stems. Work vertically, from top to bottom. Bring needle up at 1 and back down to right at 2, leaving a loop on the front. Bring the needle back up at 3 and pull thread to shape loop as desired. Insert the needle to the right of 4 at 5, leaving a loop of thread on the front. Bring needle up at 6 and pull thread to shape loop. Take next stitch to the left and continue stitching. To finish, take a small stitch over the last loop. Tip: Mark 4 parallel guidelines to create even width stitches (be sure to use a removable marker as the stitches wont fully cover the guidelines) Lazy Daisy Stitch (Detached Chain Stitch) Uses: Stitch in a circle to create flowers, single stitches can be leaves. Similar to the chain stitch, but the loops are “detached” instead of connecting. Come up at 1 and back down in the same hole or right next to point 1, forming a loop on the front side.

Bring needle up at 2 and pull thread to shape loop into desired shape. Pulling tighter creates a straighter looking stitch, while a looser thread creates a more rounded loop. Tip: Finish center of flower with a cluster of French Knots. Fly Stitch Uses: Stitch in rows for edging or singly for accents, plants and foliage, decorative lines, interesting filling. Bring needle up at 1 and down at 2, leaving a loop. Come up at 3 and with the needle over the loop, pull the thread to shape a V. Go down at 4 to anchor the V shape. Tip: Lengthen the anchor stitch to form a Y. Uses: Filling spaces, flower centers, background textures like leaves, snow and sand. Two small straight stitches side by side and randomly placed to fill an area. Come up at 1 and down at 2. Come up at 3 and down at 4. Continue grouping stitches together randomly and at different angles to look like they are scattered like seeds. Tip: Stitch in even rows for a decorative border stitch. Uses: Decorative dots, filling flower centers, leaves, plants, eyes. Bring needle up at 1.

Hold thread taut with other hand and wrap the thread twice around end of the needle. Gently pull the thread so that the wrapped threads tighten and while holding it taut, insert the needle next to 1. Pull thread through onto the backside until the knot is formed and lies securely on the surface. Tip: To make a larger knot, wrap the thread around the needle a couple of extra times or use a thicker thread. Bullion Knot Uses: Decorative dots, leaves, plants The Bullion Knot is very similar to the French Knot, but you loop the thread around the needle more times, producing a worm of a knot that is inserted a slight distance from the needle’s original entry point. Make a back stitch, the length of the bullion knot required. Bring the needle out at 1, but do not bring it out all the way. Twist the thread around the needle point, as many times as is necessary to equal the length of the back stitch. Holding the left thumb on the coiled thread, turn the needle back to 1 and insert it in the same place. Pull the thread through until the bullion knot lies flat.

Colonial Knot Uses: Use alone as decorative accents, or stitch close together to form lines and or fill in shapes. Bring need up through fabric and wrap the thread up, over and behind the needle forming a figure 8 around the needle. Insert the tip of the needle back through the fabric, close to where it first came up, but not in the same hole. Pull the thread carefully until a knot is formed, then push the needle to the back and pull the thread through. Tip: Use instead of a French knot if you want a slightly larger and higher knot. Star Stitch Uses: Decorative accents, stars, flowers, in a row for a border, disperse randomly for loose filling or stitch close together for denser filling. Starting at the top, bring the needle up at 1 and down to the center at 2. Bring the needle up at 3 and down to center at 2. Continue stitching in a clockwise direction until you have 8 evenly placed stitches to create a star. Tip: To create an eyelet effect, tighten the tension on each stitch to create an opening in the center. This technique works well on evenweave fabrics.

Satin Stitch Uses: Solid filling for shapes, great for monograms Bring needle up at 1, down at 2, then back up right next to 1 and down right next to 2. Place stitches closely together to fill in area. Be sure the thread lays flat and without any twisting to produce a smooth look. Tip: To raise the stitching, Split Stitch just inside the outline of the shape before starting. Uses: Solid filling for shapes. Stitch a cluster of seed stitches. Stitch the satin stitch over to create a beautiful raised look. Long and Short Stitch Uses: Filling of larger shapes especially when color shading is desired. First work a row of alternating long and short Satin Stitches. Keep the upper edge of the design line even. Next work a second row of long even length stitches into the short stitches of the first row, passing the needle through the tip of the stitch above. Continue stitching rows until the shape is nearly filled and the last row of long stitches are worked along the bottom of the design line. Stitch the last row with short stitches to fill in the open area along the bottom. Tip: To achieve shading, change the thread color as needed by row.

Beading DMC Beading Needles are thin enough to accommodate most bead holes for easy threading right onto your needle. To stitch on a bead use 1 ply matching colored floss. Knot one end of the thread and thread your beading needle. Bring needle up through the fabric to the right side and thread a bead onto the needle, slide it down to the fabric for correct positioning and then continue with your stitch. Continue sewing beads using this running stitch. On straight lines, depending on the size of the bead, several beads can be threaded on the needle and sewn on in a single stitch. Every 3 or 4 beads, take a back stitch to secure. Always use good quality glass beads for your embroidery project as plastic beads can melt during ironing. How to Sew By Hand - Basic Stitches Bookmark This CyberSeams Article Now! How to Sew By Hand - Basic Stitches Sewing by hand is a skill that most, if not all, people should probably attempt to master at some point.

I know it might sound a bit opinionated to say so, but the reason I believe it so strongly is that at some point in your life, you're going to discover that a button has popped off, or a seam has ripped on a shirt or pair of pants that you just do not want to part with, or some other comparitive situation that makes you wish you could just fix it quickly. You can fix these items with a simple repair kit! Also, if you're learning to sew, this is a great place to start. Learning the straight stitch and the whip stitch opens up so many possibilities for future projects and repairs. So without further ado, let us proceed: Knot your thread to the fabric To sew anything by hand, you will normally begin by knotting the thread to your fabric. You can do this by making a slip knot, running the thread through a small section of the fabric, and then slip the needle through the slip knot hole, pull everything tight. Your thread should now be fastened. Another way to knot your fabric is to slip the needle into the fabric to create a loop, and then slip the needle through the loop. Pull the loop tight, and repeat to make a second knot.

You can also tie off using the video instructions at the bottom of this page. Sewing The Straight Stitch By Hand The straight stitch is pretty well described by its name. It's well used for very simple hems, sewing two pieces of fabric together, and gathering fabric. The modern sewing machine basically has mechanized the straight stitch, but sometimes there is just no replacing a straight stitch that has been done by hand. Prep your fabric, if needed, by ironing it flat or pinning it to hold it together. You will need to determine if these steps are appropriate before you begin to stitch. Knot your thread to the fabric, and then simply weave the needle in and out of the fabric in a straight line. The length of your stitches can be very short or very long, depending on what you are working on, again you will need to decide what is appropriate.. If you are gathering your fabric together, you might want to run a second straight stitch next to the first for stability. Below is a quick video demonstrating the straight stitch: Sewing A Whip Stitch By Hand Now, the whip stitch is one of my favorite stitches to do.

It is also pretty quick, like the straight stitch, but it is invisible when you do it from the wrong side of the fabric. You can also whip stitch on the right side, for decorative purposes. Most often the whip stitch is used to close a hem. So, before you begin you will want to have your fabric pinned the way you want it to be sewn; that is, if you're hemming a pair of pants for example, have the fabric already folded, ironed and pinned in the configuration you want it sewn in. Here is a video example of the whip stitch: How to Tie Off You can tie off your sewing thread by creating a loop. Pull your thread through the loop, and grasp the thread just behind the needle after it's through the loop, and pull to tighten the loop. This leaves a second loop with which to thread through again. Pull your thread through that second loop and tighten the knot. Cut the thread. Supporting our dedication to provide Free Consumer Education, feel free to link directly to this article (and others you find useful) right from your website! J & O Fabrics Sewing Dictionary To revise a pattern or garment to suit an individual size or a particular design. Another term for clothing or garments.

Appliqué scissors They are also called duckbill scissors, one blade is wide help safely trim around the edges of the applique. Applique’ To sew a cut piece of fabric, often a design element such as a flower, on top of another larger piece of fabric. When done by machine, many sewers use a satin stitch. By hand, sewers often fold over a small edge of the fabric and use a blind stitch to create a clean edge. Awl Tool with pointed tip used to push out corners when fabric is turned (for example, when making a collar). Backing This term describes the back of a fabric that has two separate fabrics adhered to each other, for instance, a vinyl fabric with a flannel backing. This is always a quilting term that defines the fabric used as the back layer of the quilt in a sandwich. Backstitch Used at the beginning and end of a machine sewn seam to keep the seam from reopening; it involves a couple of extra stitches back and forth. Ballpoint needles Ballpoint needles are made for the use of knit fabrics to penetrate without nicking, damaging or creating a pull in the fabric.

Bar tack A group of closely sewn stitches used to tack a belt loop or similar item in place, also found at either end of buttonhole. A bar tack usually consists of a wide stitch, but the length of the stitch is very short, almost non existent. Baste/basting Temporary stitching consisting of long or large stitches used to hold a sewing project in place which is then removed when the permanent sewing is completed. Batting Batting is made of fiberfill, cotton, wool, or other material that is flattened and usually on a roll and purchased in precut lengths or by the yard. It's primary use is as a flat filling in quilted projects to create a soft thin loft. Batting is used as the middle in a quilt sandwich. Bias The bias runs diagonally to the straight grain of the fabric. This is the part of the fabric with the most stretch. Bias seam tape or bias binding Narrow strips of fabric cut on the bias, often turned under and pressed, and used for bindings, facings, or other application where there is a need for stretch or accommodation to curves. Bias tape is used in making piping, binding seams, finishing raw edges, etc.

It is often used on the edges of quilts, placemats, and bibs, and on garments around armhole and neckline edges instead of a facing. Commercially available bias tape is available as a simple bias tape, single-fold bias tape, and double-fold bias tape. Single-fold bias tape is bias tape that is folded in half lengthwise on its center line, wrong side together, and pressed. Double-fold bias tape is single-fold bias tape where each half is again folded in half lengthwise (to the center fold), wrong sides together, and pressed. Blanket stitch The Blanket Stitch is a stitch used to reinforce the edge of thick materials. It is also called a whip stitch. The technical definition is a decorative stitch used to finish an un-hemmed blanket, because it can be seen on both sides of the blanket. It is now popular for use with fleece and felt as an edging border. A blanket stitch is also used as a decorative embroidery stitch with embroidery thread in use with applique Blind hem stitch A sewing stitch that is not meant to be seen on the right side of the fabric, this is accomplished by picking up one thread of the fabric at a time. Block A block is the individual unit used in a quilt top.

Many blocks can be sewn together to create a quilt. Bobbin A small metal or plastic spool that holds the bottom thread in a sewing machine. It sits under the area the needle penetrates in the bobbin case while it loops with the needle thread to form a locked stitch. The part of a pattern or garment that runs from the shoulder to the waist. Bodkin This is a long, thick needle with a ballpoint end and a large, thin eye. They can be flat or round and are generally used for threading elastic, ribbon or tape through casings and lace openings. Bolt Fabric rolled by the yard on a tube or a rectangular cardboard form when it comes from the manufacturer. On a rectangular bolt, fabric is usually folded right sides together lengthwise. Fabric size on a bolt is usually 36" - 64" wide. Fabric yardage on a bolt could be from 15 - 50 yards. Originally whalebone or a flexible stiffening strip used as a corset stay. A pleat style featuring two straight fabric folds facing in opposite directions Buckrum Strong, heavy woven fabric used for stiffening baseball cap brims, drapery and handbags. Sometimes referred to as a form of interfacing.

Bringing two edges of fabric together so they touch, but do not overlap. Buttonholes A slit in the fabric that is bound by thread to allow a button to pass through for closing a garment. Buttonholes are mostly made by machine these days, but some people still prefer to make them by hand, using a special buttonhole stitch. Casing A fabric envelope for encasing elastic, or a drawstring, usually along a waistline, cuff, or hemline. Bias seam binding can be used as a casing or the fabric at the end of the waistline or hemline can be folded over and sewn to create a casing Clip (curve) Small scissor cuts are clipped into a sewn curve in order to have it lay flat and not bunch up when the project or garment is done. Clips must be made not to go beyond the sewn edge or a hole is created on the project when it is turned to its right side. Fabric where the color doesn't fade or run with wash or wear. Cording A twisted or woven "rope" or "string" that is used primarily in piping and to act as a drawstring in a jacket hood or waistband.

Cording is covered with bias strips of fabric when used for most decorative applications (such as edging a pillow). The designing, marketing and selling of custom sewn clothing for women by designers. Covered Button A covered button is a button that you cover by hand in the fabric that is usually the same as the garment. Covered buttons are usually made of metal, consists of two pieces and are found in the notions department of a fabric store. You can also make a covered button using cardboard. Cutting Board Cutting boards are usually large folded boards made of cardboard. They come in handy if you don’t have a large cutting surface available to you. Once opened, they can be placed on a bed for your cutting needs and then refolded and stored neatly in a closet. Cutting mats are similar but are usually placed on a firm surface like a table and used with rotary cutters. The mats are usually smaller in size and made of a soft vinyl that is self healing when cut into. Cutting line On a pattern, the outermost dark line is the line on which you cut. The dotted line inside the cutting line is the line on which you sew. Darn To repair a hole by using stitches going back and forth to fill the hole.

Some people use special darning tools and balls to keep fabric taut while they make the repair with needle and thread. Some sewing machines come with darning attachments and stitches. Dart A V shaped, tapered adjustment to a pattern to allow for more fullness in the bust area or less fullness in other areas (waist, back). Darts can be creatively placed for fit or design elements. A sleeve set into a wide armhole. Drape or draping describes the way fabric hangs and falls from the body. Duct Tape Double A body form made out of mostly duct tape that conforms exactly to the shape of your body because the tape is wound around it and then removed as a whole. Ease A way of sewing a length of fabric into a bit of a smaller space without resulting in gathers or puckers. Using your fingers to gently glide the fabric through the machine moving it as you go. A stitch sewn 1/8" from the folded or seamed edge Additional stitching, appliqués, charms, beads or other decorations added to your sewing project. Entredeux French word meaning "between two". Often it's a piece of lightweight fabric joined to another piece of lightweight fabric with a delicate bit of lace.

Another method is to join two ribbons with a piece of lace. A small hole in the fabric finished with thread, metal, cord. Facing Fabric sewn on the raw edge of a garment piece that is turned under and serves as a finish for the edge as well. Fat Quarter A fat quarter is 1/4 yard of fabric, about 18" x 22" as opposed to a regular 1/4 yard, which is 9" x 45". Fat quarters allow quick and colorful stash building. Feed Dog The "teeth" under the plate on the sewing machine that move fabric as it is sewn. Finger Pressing Opening a seam with your hands and pressing or rubbing the seam open with your fingers. Sometimes used in craft projects or small areas on a garment. Expands outward in shape, as in pants. Flat felled seam A seam created by sewing fabric wrong sides together, trimming one of the seam allowances close to the seam, then turning the other seam allowance under and stitching it over the prior trimmed seam allowance. This is often used for reinforcing seams on pajamas or to reduce bulk in a seam. Fly The fold of cloth that covers a fastening or opening, i.e.

zipper, buttons at an opening. Fold line Lots of pattern pieces are placed on the fold of a piece of fabric. This is the actual fold of the fabric off the bolt or a fold you create yourself. The goal is to have a pattern piece that is cut out without a center seam. Foot The piece of the sewing machine that presses down on the fabric as it is moved by the feed dogs below. The foot can have a special use. (zipper foot used for zippers or cording, for example) or may be an all purpose foot used for most machine stitching needs. French curve A tool used for drafting curves when altering or creating sewing patterns or designs. Can be made of plastic or metal. French seam A French seam is a type of sewing seam in which the raw ends of the fabric are tucked for a more professional look. Many seamstresses use French seams on delicate fabrics to prevent raveling. To create a French seam, with wrong sides together sew the seam along the desired edge. Then, closely trim the seam allowance to the stitching line. Next, the fabric is opened and then folded with right sides together, another seam is sewn in closely to the first seam, neatly enclosing the ragged edges of fabric inside the seam.

Fusible (webbing, interfacing, etc.) Fusible simply means to be fused by ironing. Depending on the fabric it can be permanent,you can reinforcement it by stitching. A heat-activated "glue" on one side is what creates the fuse. Gather To gather a seam, two parallel lines are sewn on the right side of the fabric, approximately 1/4" apart. Long tails of thread are left for gathering. The bobbin threads (on the wrong side of the fabric) are held on either end of the seam and gently tugged, gathering the fabric evenly on the threads. A tapering or triangular piece of cloth allowing shape. Trimming the raw edges of a garment in graduated widths to reduce bulk. Grain The grain is the direction of the fabric that runs parallel to the selvage. Commercial patterns have an arrow on them <-----> indicating direction of the grain to help to lay out the pattern pieces correctly. An eyelet reinforced with plastic or metal. Gusset A gusset is a triangular or square piece of fabric inserted into a seam to add additional room to a garment, usually during an alteration.

Ham Sometimes referred to as a dressmaker's ham or tailor's ham, this is a tightly stuffed, "ham" shaped item that is used at the ironing board to support and provide the appropriate molding for pressing curved areas - darts, princess seams, sleeves, etc. High and elegant fashion and/or(establishments). Hem The fabric that is turned up on the lower edge of a garment or sleeve to provide a finished edge. Hong Kong finish This is a technique used most often with thin fabrics on the hem so as not to add bulk. Bias tape is sewn to the raw edge of the fabric and then once the hem has been folded to the size desired it is sewn to the tape and the garment creating a flat hem. The alternative is to fold the fabric over twice so the raw edge is covered. Hook & eye closure A closing on an article of clothing that consists of a small hook on one side and a loop made of fabric or metal on the other. Seam inside the leg of pants that runs from the crotch to the hem. Inset A fabric or trim which is inserted in a fabric or garment for fashion or fit.

Interfacing When a pattern calls for interfacing it is used on the unseen or "wrong" side of the fabric to make the area where it is placed more stiff, also making the fabric less likely to stretch. Interfacings come in a variety of weights and stiffnesses for a multitude of purposes. Generally, the heavier weight a fabric is, the heavier weight an interfacing it will use. Interfacing can be fusible (using your iron to release an adhesive) or not (sewn in). Inverted pleat A pleat style featuring two straight fabric folds that face each other, forming a pleat underlay. Often used at the center front or center back of a garment. Iron An iron is a tool that is used to straighten or press fabric and to open seams. The iron can be used with or without steam. Jabot A decoration of ruffles worn down the front of a dress, shirt or blouse. Fastens at the neck. Jean jumper A small piece of plastic made to ease sewing seams on denim by holding the presser foot up ever so slightly. Allows the presser foot to "jump" the seam as if it was level with the rest of the denim. Works well with all thick fabrics.

Kick pleats Similar to box pleats, but the pleats are further apart and the folds don't butt together at the back. A pleat where fabric folds all face the same direction. Also known as straight pleats. A ruler designed to measure the crosswise stretchability of knit fabric. A delicate, unique fabric of flowers or motifs on net. Decorative and has no grainline. Two fabrics which are bonded of which one is foam or vinyl. Layout Instructional directions showing pattern piece arrangement of pattern pieces on specific widths of fabric for specific size ranges. Lettuce hem A decorative, frilly finish achieved by stretching a knit fabric while using a zig-zag stitch to sew the edge. Lining Linings are attached at the garment's waistband neck, arms and sometimes it the hem, it usually hangs free in the garment. It's generally used to give a finished look to the inside of the garment, prevent seams from raveling, reduce wrinkling, help conceal some figure faults, and make a garment easier to slip on and off. Machine embroidery Decorative stitching created by using a regular sewing machine (zig zag, satin stitch, etc.) or a sewing machine specifically designed for machine embroidery. Some machines do both.

Marking The transfer of symbols and instructions from pattern to fabric by various means. i.e. tracing wheel and paper, chalk, wax, or tailor tacks. Mend To repair or fix a hole, tear, split or other problem with a garment. This can be done with sew-on patches, iron-on patches, stitching by machine or hand in a variety of manners, or whatever method is easiest. Shiny silver or gold thread for decorative sewing by machine or by hand. Miter Mitering a corner makes a smooth, professional finish to a 90-degree corner, neatly squaring the corners while creating a diagonal seam from the point of the corner to the inside edge. Mitering is mostly used for the corners of quilts. Muslin An inexpensive woven fabric used to make crafts and back quilts. Muslin is often used to sew a pattern together for the first time, avoiding any problems before cutting and sewing more expensive fabric. Nap Nap is the "fuzzy" part of a fabric that is usually in one direction. Corduroy and velvet are good examples of fabric which has a nap or a pile. If smoothed with the hand, nap is typically shiny in one direction and not shiny in the other.

When cutting out a pattern, fabric pieces need to go in the same direction “nap-wise”. Narrow hem A narrow hem is one that is approximately 1/8" or 1/4" and is used on men's shirts, slips, lingerie, napkins, and other items that need just a hint of a hem. Use a special sewing foot for this or turn the hem up with your fingers. Notch A notch is found on a pattern and shown with a dark diamond. They can be cut around outwardly or notched inwardly and should be matched on seams when joining for sewing. Notion A notion is any item used for sewing other than the fabric and the machine. For example: thread, snaps, hooks, needles, zippers and other various tools. Overcasting, overstitching This is stitching done on the edge of the seam to prevent raveling. This is usually accomplished with a zig zag stitch. Once the seam has been pressed open and the overstitching is visible it gives a very professional look to the piece. An even more formal way to accomplish this is with a “French Seam”. A sewing machine called a "serger" can be used to accomplish this also.

Overlock An overcast stitch to prevent raveling of fabric. There are sewing machines made to do overlock stitching. Overlock machine A type of sewing machine that sews seams, trims, and overcasts the raw edges all in one step. Also called a serger. Weights used on paper patterns instead of pinning a pattern to the fabric. Pile The nap of the fabric. Lay all pattern pieces so that the pile is going in its natural direction. For example, the down pile would be down the leg. Narrow sewn rows of fabric that give a decorative raised look to a garment. Pinking shears Shears with a V shape along the cutting edge used to cut fabric to keep it ravel-free. Pinking shears are also used as an embellishing tool. Pins Pins are used for temporary basting of fabric. They are used to hold patterns in place while cutting and to hold fabrics together while stitching (machine sewing over pins can break your sewing machine needle). Often, large safety pins are used to baste quilt layers before the final quilting.

Care should be taken to use a pin that will not leave a large hole and to not leave pins in fabric too long; they could cause stains where they touch the fabric. Piping A cord covered with bias fabric, often used for decorative edging on garments or projects. This can be encased in seams for a nice effect. Pivot To leave the needle in fabric, raise the presser foot and turn the fabric at a 45 degree angle. Then lower the presser foot and start sewing. Pivot Stitching around a corner by leaving the needle in the fabric at the corner, raising the presser foot and turning the fabric to continue. A finished slit in a dress, blouse or skirt. Placket A V-shaped opening at the end of a sleeve that is finished with a bias strip before the cuff is attached. Fabric folds that control fullness in a garment. Variations include box, inverted and knife pleats. Preshrink It is a good idea to wash your fabric in the manner in which your garment will be washed before you cut it and sew it. If you are making a craft that will not be washed, you don't necessarily need to do this.

The goal is to allow the fabric to shrink to whatever degree it is going to shrink before you use it. Do not preshrink dry clean only fabrics. Imagine if you have ever purchased a garment, only to find after washing, it no longer fit. Presser Foot The part of the sewing machine that holds the fabric in place as it is being sewn and fed through by the feed dogs. Specialty feed dogs are available to attach to your machine for various uses. Prick stitch You use prick stitching on fabrics such as velvet where everything shows. Take a small backstitch sewn on the right side of the fabric and do the remaining backstitching on the wrong side. Raglan Sleeves Sleeves which extend from the collar to the wrist having diagonal seams in the front and back from collar to underarm. The edge of fabric that is not stitched or finished. Reinforce (seam) To reinforce a seam, you may need to sew next to it, almost on top of it, but not quite. You can also reinforce a seam with bit of seam or bias tape. Crotch seams are susceptible and need to be reinforced.

Remnant A remaining or leftover piece of fabric after selling the rest of a bolt or completing a garment. To stitch backwards or to change direction. The good side of a fabric. The side which would face out. Right side The right side of the fabric is the design side. There are instances of fabric with no right or wrong side visible, and the determination and appropriate markings are then made by the person doing the pattern cutting and sewing. Rotary cutter Early versions of the rotary cutter looked like pizza cutters. Today, the handles are often ergonomically designed and padded. The blade, though, remains a rounded razor, sometimes with pinked edging or other designs. These are great for cutting layers of fabric into straight strips. Many people are using them for curved lines and pattern cutting for garments as well. A strip of fabric that is gathered or pleated to be used as decoration. Ruler Rulers used in sewing are usually made of a clear plastic and marked in 1/4" or less increments. A very popular ruler is 2" wide and 18" long, and can be used for sewing, rotary cutting, measuring buttonhole placement, and other measuring jobs.

In addition to a ruler or two, a good measuring tape is needed. Running stitch A simple stitch made by running the thread over and under the fabric. This stitch is often used for basting or as the basis (marking) for another more decorative stitch. Satin stitch A very tight zig zag stitch that is available on most sewing machines. If it is not automatically available, the stitch length can be set to almost 0 to achieve a satin stitch with a plain zig zag machine. To cut and finish with circles at the border or the edge. The result when two pieces of fabric are sewn together along a line. Seam allowance The fabric between the edge of the fabric and the line of stitching, the standard allowance is 5/8" for most patterns. Seam ripper A tool of varying sizes and modifications which has a curved, sharp cutting area for removing stitches and seams. Selvage Often marked with information from the manufacturer (color code, identifying data, etc.), this is the edge of the fabric which generally does not fray due to manufacturer's finish. Separating zipper A zipper that comes completely apart when unzipped. There is a special tab at the bottom of a separating zipper for bringing it together and starting the zip.

Usually used for jackets. Serger A type of sewing machine that stitches the seam, encases the seam with thread, and cuts off excess fabric at the same time. These are used for construction of garments with knit fabrics mostly, or to finish seams of any fabric. Sewing needle A sewing needle is a long slender tool with a pointed tip. A needle for hand sewing has a hole, called the eye, at the non-pointed end to carry thread or cord through the fabric after the pointed end pierces it. Hand sewing needles have different names depending on their purpose. Needle size is denoted by a number on the packet. The convention for sizing is that the length and thickness of a needle increases as the size number decreases. For example, a size 1 needle will be thicker and longer, while a size 10 will be shorter and finer. Shank button A button with space left between the button and fabric. A shank button is one made with a shank. Other buttons can be "shanked" by wrapping thread under the button to create a shank. A decorative technique obtained by making multiple rows of gathering. Shrink Some fabrics become tighter/smaller when washed and dried, whether by machine or by hand.

See Preshrink. Fabric finish that provides crispness without stiffness; a light starch finish. Usually eliminated during washing. Slit An open part of a seam, the bottom usually, often found in skirt side or back seams. Sloper A sloper is the most basic of patterns, used by apparel manufacturers to style a garment. For instance, a designer may start with a paper sloper skirt for size and length and modify it to create something more unique or original. Snips Very small cutting tool resembling scissors used to snip threads. Usually used with hand sewing or portable projects. Spool The holder of thread. There are wooden spools, plastic spools, cardboard tube spools, and cone spools, as well as others. Fabric used to reinforce an area and to prevent stretching. Stay stitch A line of stitching just inside (about 1/8") the intended permanent stitching line (seam line) on curved edges that stabilizes and keeps the curve from distorting. The direction of the stay stitching is shown on the pattern. If not, it generally goes from shoulder to center on necklines (usually going with the grain of the fabric).

Stitch in the ditch It is a method of stitching close to a seam allowance or in the seam itself in order to hold it down. Stitch length In general, regular sewing is about 11-12 stitches per inch, basting/gathering/bunching/sleeve easing is about 6 stitches per inch (plus or minus 1 or 2 stitches for some applications). There are rare occasions when stitches need to exceed 12 per inch, but they are few. Straight stitch Stitching made with single forward stitches. This is the regular stitch that most sewing machines make. Tack A temporary stitch to hold pieces together, usually removed after final stitching. Tacking is also known as a term for starting off a seam with a few stitches back and forth for stabilizing. Tailor board A hardwood tool of different shapes and edges useful in pressing various types of seams and corner. Tailor's tack A tailor's tack is essentially two threads in a needle, drawn through fabric layer/s and then snipped, leaving tails of thread on top and on the bottom of the fabric as a marking for later use. They can be used to mark pattern pieces for darts, buttonholes, etc.

Go straight through all layers of pattern and fabric before snipping any threads. Leave a long enough tail of thread that you can find it later. Use a contrasting thread that stands out so you can see it later. Tape (measuring) Flexible, usually made of a covered cloth material, about 60" long (152 cm), and has a cover on each end. Markings are on both sides of the tape. This is not to be confused with a measuring tape used in carpentry that is encased in a metal box. A measuring tape for sewing can be kept rolled up in a drawer or hanging on the bulletin board next to the sewing machine. A seamstress will often be seen wearing one loosely around her neck. Tension Tension refers to the pressure being placed on your needle and bobbin thread by your machine. There are two types of tension on your sewing machine - the thread and bobbin tensions. It is best to read your sewing machine manual for specifics. Rarely does one need to adjust bobbin tension. Your sewing machine manual will show you the appropriate settings and offer you examples of what the threads should look like on the right and wrong sides of your stitching.

Once tension has been changed it’s best to test the change on a scrap of fabric and not your project. Thimble Thimbles are protective devices for your middle finger when doing hand sewing. They can be made of leather, metal, wood, ceramic, or other material. To be certain you have one that is right for you, try on several to get a good feel. You want it loose, but not so loose that it slips off. You want it tight, but not so tight that it is snug. A thimble is worn on the hand that is using the needle for sewing (hems, embroidery, basting, etc.). Thread A complementary or like color thread is chosen for garment or project construction on a machine. The bobbin should be wound of the same type of thread or the exact same thread whenever possible, to prevent knotting, bunching, etc. The first step for most sewing machine trouble shooting is to check the thread and needle. Often, the thread or needle will need to be changed. When hand sewing with one thread, cut the end of the thread that is nearest to the spool before tying a knot in the same end. This will prevent raveling and knotting.

Top Stitch A sometimes decorative, sometimes functional stitch that is usually 1/4" from the edge of a seam. For instance, once a vest is turned or a facing is turned and pressed, one may stitch 1/4" from the edge on the top of the garment to provide a bit of stabilization. This can be done in same or contrasting thread, depending on the decorative effect desired. Top stitching To sew a decorative row(s) of stitching on the right side of the fabric from the outside at varying distances from the seam, and parallel to the seam. Tracing paper A type of paper made especially to be used with a tracing wheel. It has an ink-type substance on one side for marking fabric with the wheel. Tracing wheel A tracing wheel is used with tracing paper, it resembles a pastry wheel. Be careful not to press too hard and cut the pattern, tracing paper, or the fabric. Also note that tracing ink from the tracing paper does not always wash out. An extended part of the garment that follows at the back. Trim Trim is any decorative item, ribbon or lace etc. that is put on a garment or craft item that is being sewn.

Trim is also used to define the act of trimming excess seam allowances or fabric with scissors. Tuck See pin tuck. A method of sewing fabric together resulting in a raised seam, often seen in heirloom sewing, the bodice of a woman's blouse or a man's formal (tuxedo) shirt. A strong woven tape with diagonal ribs used in tailoring and to strengthen seams. will tape Twill tape: A strong woven tape with diagonal ribs used in tailoring and to strengthen seams. Under stitching Keeps a facing or lining from rolling onto the right side of a garment. After pressing the seam allowance and facing away from the garment, stitch through both 1/8" from the seam. Some people grade the seam allowance and facing/lining prior to stitching to eliminate bulk. The lower piece of fabric of two overlapped pieces. Underlay For example: A pleat looks like an inverted pleat but has a separate piece of fabric (underlay) underneath the pleat. Where the backfolds are there are two seams. Underlining Is cut from the same pattern pieces as the fashion fabric and is attached before construction begins. Then, as the garment is constructed, the underlining and fashion fabric are handled as a single unit.

Most often, underlining is cut from fine cotton batist light- to medium-weight cotton broadcloth, or silk organza. But a variety of other materials can also be used to underline a fashion fabric. Lining used to add body to a garment. A slightly rounded tip to use for woven or knit fabrics. A lined opening or slit meant to aid in comfort. Yoke The part of a garment that is fitted at the shoulders and neck area or at the hip where often a gathered fabric section hangs from it. Most patterns show different variations on the pattern package. Each variation is called a "view". Walking Foot A walking foot is an attachment for your sewing machine that enables smoother sewing when using several layers or fabric. It provides an extra bit of hold from the top that works with the feed dogs below the fabric, pushing the fabric during the sewing process. It "walks" the fabric. It also works well with slippery fabrics that may need control not available with the feed dogs only. Warp Threads running the length of a woven fabric, sometimes known as the lengthwise grain (little to no stretch) (see weft and grain) Decorative, often quilted and embellished, clothing made to be unique, beautiful, and functional.

Weft Threads running at right angles to the length of a woven fabric, sometimes known as the cross grain (very little to some stretch) (see warp and grain) Welt An inset pocket with the lower lip finished by an upstanding welt that may be from 3/8” to 1” wide. It can have one or two lips finishing the opening edges, used mostly in classic wear. Usually found as the chest pocket of a jacket or a coat. A buttonhole can be welted also Wing needle A wing needle is a sewing machine needle used to achieve an eyelet effect for craft projects, also referred to as an “heirloom affect.” The two small flanges on the left and right of the needle create a hole in the fabric by separating the fibers, and the hole is held open by the stitching. The name of the needle comes from its distinctive appearance, and wing needles come in a variety of sizes designed for different projects and weights of fabric. The larger the size of the wing needle, the larger the resulting hole in the fabric will be. Wonder-Under A fusible product by Pellon which allows for the application of a fabric design upon another fabric, paper, wood, etc., utilizing an iron.

Wrong side The wrong side of the fabric is the side where no design is present. There are instances of fabric with no wrong side visible, and the determination and appropriate markings are then made by the person doing the pattern cutting and sewing. TECHknitting: The BEST way to attach lining fabric to knitting--the OVERCAST STITCH (part 5 of "hand sewing for hand knitters") Chronological index Friday, May 9, 2008 The BEST way to attach lining fabric to knitting--the OVERCAST STITCH (part 5 of "hand sewing for hand knitters") We come now to a stitch as useful to hand knitters as any stitch could well be--we come to the OVERCAST STITCH (also called the whip stitch). This stitch has the fabulous ability to attach a LINING to KNIT FABRIC such that the lining doesn't rip out of the knit garment as soon as the knit garment is stretched. TECHknitting has already given directions for lining a hat with a Polar fleece headband . which shows the overcast stitch in action, but this post shows the actual details of the stitch itself.

The illustration below shows a green lining being overcast stitched to a blue knitted fabric by a right handed sewer. (Click picture to enlarge.) The close-up illustration below shows why this stitch works.(Click picture to enlarge.) Attaching a lining to knitting is a challenge because lining is often made of WOVEN CLOTH, and woven cloth, as we know, does not stretch very much. Knitting, on the other hand, is extremely stretchy. The stitch chosen to attach such dissimilar fabrics has to-- 1. hold the woven cloth in place, even when the underlying knitted fabric is stretching 2. not stop the knitted cloth from stretching 3. flexibly connect the woven cloth and the knitted fabric. The overcast stitch gets a "A+" on all three factors. As stated in a previous post, the overcast stitch "tethers" the fabrics together rather than "nailing" them together . Look closely at the stitch in the close-up above and you'll see that the lining fabric is actually "hanging" from the knitted fabric.

In other words, the overcast stitch is acting as a little string from which the lining is "swinging." This "swing" allows the lining to adjust to the stretch of the fabric. As the final illustration, below, shows, there is also quite a bit of thread reserve in the overcast stitch--the path of the thread resembles a coiled spring, and this coil of thread has the reserve to stretch when stressed. And yet...although the overcast stitch works the best of all the hand sewing stitches for attaching a lining, the reserve of thread in this stitch might not be enough to stop the thread from breaking when the knitting is over-stretched. You can mostly solve this problem by cutting the lining bigger than the garment, then sewing in the excess via little bite-sized bumps. This is called "easing in a lining." An example of easing in a lining is shown in the TECHknitting post mentioned earlier, about lining a hat, headband style, with polar fleece . Good knitting--TK

Question: What stitch, also called a whip stitch (when done by machine) or a crochet stitch (when done by hand), is used to reinforce the edge of thick materials?
Answer: Blanket stitch