Suzuki Motorcycle Wheels and Rims Buying Guide | eBay Suzuki Motorcycle Wheels and Rims Buying Guide Share February 29, 2016 There is something special about the way motorcycles look and feel. Riding them gives pleasure to many people because it allows for the expression of freedom and independence. Besides achieving a stylish effect and making a certain statement, motorcycles are also a cheaper means of transportation when compared to cars, as they consume less fuel. The initial costs, as well as maintenance and insurance costs, are also lower. When it comes to traffic jams, motorcycles simply slide past the congestion and get their riders to the final destination quickly. Suzuki has produced motorcycles and other vehicles since the 1950's, and the company is renowned for its high-quality vehicles. The wheels and rims on any Suzuki motorcycle are interchangeable. Although they can be replaced when they are broken or worn, many people also use different wheel and rim designs in order to express their personalities, as these parts are available in various stylish designs. Moreover, new wheels and rims can also improve a motorcycle's performance. When buying wheels and rims for Suzuki motorcycles, it is essential to be informed about the types and features available.

Wheels and rims can be purchased from motorcycle part dealers, or via online auction sites, such as eBay. Suzuki Motorcycle Wheels The wheels refer to metal parts, and the tyres , which are made of rubber, are not included in this definition. Motorcycle wheels can be made in several different ways. Often, the rim can be an inseparable part of the wheel, as when the metal part is cast from one piece. According to their structure, wheels are categorised as solid, spoke, and custom cut wheels. The different structures allow for different designs to suit anyone's needs. Solid Suzuki Motorcycle Wheels In the case of solid motorcycle wheels, the wheel rim and spokes, the bars that reach from the centre to the outer edge, are made from one piece of metal. Usually such wheels are made of aluminium. These wheels are also known as cast or forged wheels. This type of wheel allows for slightly fewer customisation options, as it is bought as a whole and does not have separate components that can be changed. Spoke Suzuki Motorcycle Wheels Spoke wheels include rims that are covered with spokes. The spokes are the wire rods that reach from the centre of the wheel to the outer edge.

Laced with spokes, these rims are stronger than some other types, and they also add a certain stylish touch. The spokes may be either single-butted, single-gauge, or double-butted. The rims on spoke wheels are generally made of aluminium. This traditional wheel is very durable, as it may bend a little without breaking and still continue to function well. Spoke wheels can also be repaired quickly, because typically only the spokes need to be replaced, with the central hub usually remaining intact. The spokes of a spoke wheel can be made from a variety of materials. The list includes galvanised steel and stainless steel (polished or unpolished). Galvanised steel can be painted, and it is therefore a suitable material for a person who may later wish to customise the motorcycle. Custom Cut Suzuki Motorcycle Wheels Custom cut motorcycle rims can be moulded into various shapes. Usually, such wheels are made of aluminium, which is then carved with intricate designs. The carving process is done with a computer. The options are limitless and it is possible to order complex designs, but this also means that the price is relatively high. Suzuki Motorcycle Rims The rims on the motorcycle are the outer edge of the wheel.

If this part of the wheel breaks, there is not always a need to replace the entire wheel, although this may be necessary if the wheel is made from a single piece of metal. Suzuki Motorcycle Rim Materials Aluminium is a lightweight yet durable material that is often used for Suzuki motorcycle rims. Magnesium alloy is another popular material for Suzuki motorcycle rims. As with all other alloys, it is a combination of several metals. When made out of carbon fibre, the rims, and in turn, the whole motorcycle, can be very lightweight. Carbon fibre is quite an expensive material and it is mainly used by racers, who largely depend on the weight of their motorcycle for better performance. Stainless steel, steel mixed with chromium, is yet another popular wheel rim material because it does not tarnish or rust. Motorcycle wheel rims are plated with chrome and nickel, which gives them a specific colour. Chrome is a popular finish that also protects the metal from corrosion and other external factors. However, keeping a chrome wheel rim in excellent condition does involve some work on the owner's part. Some cleaning and occasional waxing is required. Nickel has a silvery-white finish and gives the rim extra strength as well as protection from corrosion.

Suzuki Motorcycle Rim Diameter The rim diameter refers to the inner diameter of the metal rim. It is the distance from side to side, through the centre of the wheel. As the tyre is mounted on the rim, the rim diameter should be carefully considered when buying any parts, be it either the wheel, rim, or the tyre. This way, the parts are compatible with each other and can be used on the motorcycle. Suzuki Motorcycle Rim Width The rim width is also an important measurement when trying to find a motorcycle rim with the correct size. The rim width is designated with a letter, and each letter represents a certain rim width range. The range is typically measured in inches. Rim Width Code Buyer’s guide to road bike wheels - BikeRadar BikeRadar Procycling Magazine Procycling brings you the colour, action and drama of the world's most spectacular sport in a glossy and dynamic magazine. It's the authoritative, worldwide voice of international professional road racing, distributed in every country where there are English-speaking fans. With exclusive features and spectacular photography, Procycling brings to life the complexities, rivalries and hardships of the European professional scene. Cycling Plus Cycling Plus is the manual for the modern road cyclist.

Whether you're cycling weekly, an occasional new rider or a Tour de France fan you’ll find everything you need. Every issue is packed with expert reviews of the latest road bikes and gear, inspirational routes and rides, evocative features that take you inside every aspect of cycling and unmatched nutrition, fitness and training advice. What Mountain Bike UK What Mountain Bike is the magazine that gets to the heart of what matters in mountain biking. Whether it's new bikes, fresh kit, inspiring photography or the low down on the latest trail developments, What Mountain Bike has something for every rider. Our team cuts through jargon and marketing spin to tell you what you need to know, with honest, informed opinions and a wealth of experience. Mountain Biking UK Mountain Biking UK celebrates everything that is great about mountain biking, enabling people of all abilities and ages to have a better time on their bike. MBUK brings you all the latest news, coolest kit, plus exclusive info on the newest and best bikes that you can buy.

June 17, 2015 12:00pm GMT Share on Facebook Buyer’s guide to road bike wheels Factory to custom, clincher to tubular 1 / 16 With so many road wheel choices on the market, often even within the same brand, where do you begin?

Our buyer's guide is here to help (Matthew Allen / Immediate Media) 2 / 16 A full disc wheel is popular in time-trials and on a closed track, but it's not for use outside of those conditions (Matthew Allen / Immediate Media) Once you narrow your choices, road bike wheels will be less daunting (David Rome / Immediate Media) Internal rim width is becoming a very popular metric to look at in road wheels (David Rome / Immediate Media) 5 / 16 Ensure that the freehub body is right for your drivetrain - number of gears and brand does matter (David Rome / Immediate Media) A disc-brake wheelset does not need a braking surface on the rim (David Rome / Immediate Media) Deep racing wheels offer aerodynamic benefits, but only at higher speeds (David Rome / Immediate Media) Tubular tyres require plenty of work to get them set up (David Rome / Immediate Media) 9 / 16 And unless you have someone waiting in a car with a spare wheel, tubulars may not be the best option (David Rome / Immediate Media) 10 / 16 Pro riders will often swap wheels depending on the day's course and conditions.

However, it seems a rim with a 30-40mm depth has fast become the 'all-round' choice (David Rome / Immediate Media) 11 / 16 Most brands offer basic 'factory' wheelsets. However, for ultimate durability you may want to consider a handbuilt wheel with a higher spoke count (David Rome / Immediate Media) Every brand has multiple road wheel choices (David Rome / Immediate Media) 13 / 16 Zipp is one of the leading brands in the aerodynamic wheel market and produces rims in depth increments of 10mm (David Rome / Immediate Media) 14 / 16 Disc brakes are fast becoming popular among those who don't race. Pictured is a Shimano Centerlock spline system to hold a disc brake rotor.

The other system is a six-bolt mount (David Rome / Immediate Media) 15 / 16 Tubeless rims are another mountain biking innovation that's becoming more common on the road – pictured is an airtight rim design (David Rome / Immediate Media) 16 / 16 Most road bikes still have rim brakes – the condition of the rim's braking surface is crucial for your safety (Colin Levitch / Immediate Media) Skip Ad Keith Bontrager famously said of bicycle parts: "Strong. Light. Cheap. Pick Two." It's a saying that still completely (and unfortunately) holds true when it comes to road bike wheels, which, once you've got a quality frame, are arguably the best upgrade you can give your steed. As the means of keeping you rolling, wheels must offer dependable hubs for drive, high stiffness for accurate tracking, be able to hold a tyre at great pressure, provide a surface for consistent braking – and achieve all these aims while being as lightweight as possible.

Upgrading to a wheelset that hits these targets more accurately than what you're currently rolling on can inject some serious new life into a bike, providing an improved ride quality, faster average speeds, greater braking ability or just a lower weight – something that helps in both acceleration and deceleration. With thousands of options available, buying new wheels can be a confusing task. This buyer’s guide is to help educate you on what to look for in wheels, the various features and what the common terms mean. Basic wheel anatomy Hub – the wheel spins around the hub that sits at its axis. On the rear wheel, the hub features a freehub mechanism (unless you're riding a fixed-wheel bike), which allows the bike to coast, but drives forward as desired when you stomp on the pedals. The hub contains the axle, which is what attaches the wheel to the bike. Spokes – pieces of wire or similar that give distance between the hub and rim. The number of spokes per wheel and the material choice is important. Nipples – the spokes thread into a special nut called a nipple. Most wheels can be straightened through adjusting spoke tension via the nipple.

Rim – sitting on the outside of the wheel, the rim holds the tyre and provides a braking surface for rim-brake equipped bikes. Riding purpose Just as road bikes are now increasingly being designated according to their uses (race, endurance, aero, adventure and so on), wheels too fit into similar categories. Knowing what type of rider you are, and what you want out of your wheel upgrade will simplify and narrow your choices. Climbing wheels Rotating weight is felt most when ascending, and so a wheel suited to climbing is usually designed with low weight in mind. Such wheels generally feature a shallow-profile rim and a low spoke count. Another benefit of such a wheel is seen in ride quality. Typically, the deeper a rim gets in its shape, the harsher the ride – therefore climbing wheels are often more compliant. Where a wheelset is below 1,500g and doesn’t claim to be aerodynamic, it can often be put into the climbing designation. Where budget is no issue, a superlight climbing wheelset should weigh between 900g and 1300g.

Mid-section aerodynamic wheels Aerodynamic wheels, one of the key buzz words of modern road cycling, have quickly become a popular choice for creating that ‘pro look’. An aerodynamic wheel will usually feature a deeper section rim – typically a rim depth of 30mm is the starting point. As aero designs have enhanced over recent years, there’s been a big uptake in these mid-depth wheels, which unlike some deep-section models (see below) now provide a sensible balance between low weight, ride quality and improved performance against the wind. Aerodynamic rims are often made from carbon fibre in order to keep weight low. However, budget options are likely to be made of, or feature aluminium and so will be heavy. Deep-section aerodynamic wheels Deep racing wheels offer aerodynamic benefiets, but only at higher speeds: deep racing wheels offer aerodynamic benefiets, but only at higher speeds An example of a deep-section rim Where speed is a priority, a deep-section rim of 50mm or more cuts through the wind with less turbulence. However, the additional depth can cause problems if riding in high cross-winds and often adds weight – which is why mid-depth wheels have become a popular compromise outside of time-trials and fast sprint courses.

People who race on deep aerodynamic wheels will often own a set of training wheels for use outside of racing. Training wheels While light weight and speed is a priority for racing wheels, training or ‘everyday’ wheels must be durable and able take a beating. Because rims wear out over time with braking, training wheels are often best with aluminium brake surfaces. Handbuilt ones, where replacement spokes and rims are relatively cheap, are a good choice (see below for more on these). Other options are budget wheels from major brands, which can be quite solid, with parts also not too expensive to replace. For this type of usage, expect a wheelset weight of 1500-1800g for something that is well priced. Budget wheelset choices are likely to be 1,900g or over. Long-distance / touring wheels Back-country road riding, which is fast growing in popularity, calls on similar demands to a good touring wheelset. The wheels must be near over-built for the occasion and easily user serviceable. For this type of riding, a high spoke count (28-32) handbuilt wheelset is best.

Tyre types There are three types of tyres for road bikes, and each type needs a specific rim. For more details, read our explanation of the differences between tubes, tubeless and tubular . Clincher The term 'clincher' simply refers to standard tyres that use inner tubes to hold the air. This is the most common wheel type on road bikes. Generally, where tyre type isn’t mentioned, you can assume it's a clincher. Tubular Tubular tyres require plenty of work to get them setup: tubular tyres require plenty of work to get them setup Tubular tyres are glued on the rim Tubulars, while less known, are nothing new – and continue to be the standard in professional racing. While they too use inner tubes, they're stitched into a fully enclosed casing that's then glued to the rim. With that in mind, it's easy to see why tubulars are best kept for racing – there's no way for the average rider to simply (or reliably) repair them when you're out on the road.

Tubeless Tubeless rims are becoming common, pictured is an airtight rim design: tubeless rims are becoming common, pictured is an airtight rim design Tubeless rims feature an airtight design Tubeless, a technology that's well-proven in mountain biking, has increasingly got some brands touting its benefits for road too . A tubeless road tyre is effectively an airtight clincher system that uses no inner tube. Tubeless rims are backwards compatible with clincher tyres – and so we’re starting to see some brands only offering ‘tubeless-compatible’ wheels. Rim material Modern wheels are available in two common material types; carbon fibre or aluminium. Aluminium is typically found in any wheel below £800 / US$1200 / AU$1500. Carbon fibre has become the standard for performance race wheels, where stiffness and light weight are an absolute priority. Aluminium still sets the benchmark for braking performance, although carbon rims are making strides in this area all the time. Remember: just as not all metals are created equal, neither are all carbon fibre products. While the picture is improving, carbon rims have been associated with wheels failing on descents as heat builds up under braking.

Wheel diameter The standard road bike rim size is 700c, with the name coming from an approximate metric measurement taken from the diameter of the wheel including an inflated tyre. Rarely do modern road bikes sway from 700c wheels. If you look closely enough at your road bike tyre, you’ll likely see numbers such as 23-622 or 25-622. These numbers are of the international tyre sizing standard, with the first numbers referring to the tyre width (23c, 25c). The second series of numbers, in this case 622, is the bead seat diameter (BSD) of the tyre designed to fit a 700c rim. Rim width Internal rim width is becoming a very popular metric to look at in road wheels: internal rim width is becoming a very popular metric to look at in road wheels Inner rim width is an important metric to consider in modern wheels While the 622mm bead seat diameter is an industry standard, the width of the rim is not.

Recently there has been a trend toward wider rims, because they offer greater tyre volume and a stiffer wheel, which in turn provides a more comfortable ride, improved bike control, lower rolling resistance and potentially fewer flats. For those racing, wider rims have been shown to be more aerodynamic too. The confusing part is that some brands quote external rim width, while others internal. Looking to internal width, anything under 14mm is considered narrow, 19mm and over is wide and anything between is sufficient for common 23-25c tyres. Axle sizes If your road bike is of the last 20 years and has rim brakes, it most likely has a 130mm width quick release rear axle (written as 130mm QR or 130x5mm), and a 100mm (100 QR, or 100x5mm) quick release front. However, the introduction of disc brakes has greatly confused this and now there are multiple ‘standards’ for bikes with disc brakes, many of which, like the brake designs themselves, are borrowed from mountain biking.

Freehubs and drivetrain compatibility Situated on the right-side of the rear hub, the freehub is what holds the drivetrain’s cassette and allows drive to the rear wheel. Although most 11-speed designs are now backwards compatible, you must be careful to match the freehub to your drivetrain brand. Shimano This spline system hasn’t changed a great deal, with the exception of 11-speed forcing a wider freehub. With this, the latest Shimano -compatible 11-speed wheels include a washer for use with 8, 9 or 10 speed cassettes. If you have an 11-speed drivetrain, you will need to ensure the wheels are 11-speed (except for Mavic , where all recent models are 11-speed-ready). It is possible to buy a cassette that will allow you to use an 11-speed drivetrain with 10-speed wheels. Such a thing exists from the likes of Token , Edco and others. Just beware that they generally are more expensive, and tend not to shift as nicely as an authentic Shimano (or SRAM ) cassette.

Ensure that the freehub body is right for your drivetrain - number of gears and brand does matter: ensure that the freehub body is right for your drivetrain - number of gears and brand does matter Be sure to check the freehub is compatible with your gears Beware of older Shimano 10-speed wheels from 2011 – these featured a narrower 10-speed only freehub body with taller splines and so will not work with any other speed cassette. SRAM cassettes use Shimano’s spline system and so are nearly all cross-compatible. The exception here is SRAM’s new 1x11 specific ‘ XD-Driver ’, which is its own standard. Campagnolo The freehub diameter and splines of Campagnolo freehubs are vastly different to that of Shimano/SRAM. If you have Campagnolo gearing, ensure that the freehub body is matched. Many aftermarket wheel brands will sell freehub bodies as a replacement part – so it’s possible to switch a Campagnolo wheel to Shimano and vice-versa (Shimano-branded wheels being a key exception here).

Freehub design and durability The internal mechanisms of freehubs vary greatly from brand to brand and, as a moving part, do require occasional lubrication and maintenance. Generally, more expensive designs allow easier servicing and maintenance of the mechanism with only basic tools being required. Some cheaper designs aren't as easily serviced, while certain brands (such as Shimano) recommend replacing the whole concealed unit if worn. Freehub ratchet speeds A feature that’s commonly overlooked in a hub is the ratchet speed, or the angle of uptake. Hubs typically don’t go lower than 18 points of engagement per 360 degree revolution, but hubs that offer more can provide the feeling of faster acceleration out of corners. Braking Rim brakes have long been the standard for road bikes. But as mentioned above, disc braking, a technology proven with cars, motorbikes and mountain bikes, is fast becoming a popular choice for road cyclists. (So far, they've been excluded from racing, but that looks set to change over the next few years.) While most wheels are still designed for rim brakes, disc brakes add another element to the decision-making process. Rim Most road bikes wheels are still designed for use with rim brakes, which are undoubtedly still the standard.

With this, the rim must offer a consistent braking surface. This is why most quality aluminium rims claim to offer a ‘machined’ surface, which generally guarantees an even surface at manufacturing. Over time, braking in gritty conditions will not just wear down the brake pads, but the rims too. A worn brake track can be dangerous as the high pressure of a road tyre can cause the rim to crack and explode. Look for a small dimple or groove on the surface of your rim – this is a wear indicator. When it starts disappearing, it's time to get your rim or wheel replaced. Carbon rims typically don’t perform as well when braking, nor last as long as aluminium rims – especially in the wet. Keep this in mind if your considering a carbon wheel for everyday use. Disc Disc brake wheels feature a hub with a mount for the disc rotor. Because of the high forces these rotors exert on a wheel under braking, disc-brake wheels commonly feature higher spoke counts. The latest designs do away with the rim braking surface entirely and modify this traditionally reinforced area to achieve lower weight.

It’s worth noting that fitting disc brakes to a road bike isn’t as simple as swapping out the wheels – both the frame and fork must be designed to accept disc brakes too with appropriate mounts given (this is still quite rare). Disc brakes are fast becoming popular amongst those who don't race. pictured is a shimano center-lock spline system to hold a disc brake rotor. the other system is a 6-bolt mount : disc brakes are fast becoming popular amongst those who don't race. pictured is a shimano center-lock spline system to hold a disc brake rotor. the other system is a 6-bolt mount Disc brake mounts sit on the left of a disc brake hub. Shimano's Centerlock system is pictured If buying disc brake wheels, note that there are two types of hub brake mount – Centerlock and six-bolt. Centerlock is a splined system from Shimano and can be adapted to fit six-bolt rotors. Six bolt hubs can only fit six-bolt rotors. Spokes As you'll probably be aware, a wheel's spokes span the distance from the hub to the rim. Generally, wheels with higher spoke counts are stronger and more durable, but this comes with a weight penalty.

Typically a spoke is made from a piece of stainless steel wire that’s been cold-forged and then had a thread added to it. Some higher-end wheels can also feature spokes made from aluminium, carbon fibre or even titanium. When it comes to a quality wheel build, correct spoke tension is critical. Too loose and the spokes can unwind, and the constant flex will eventually lead to broken spokes or cracked rims. Too tight and the ride quality will be harsh, with an increased risk of the rim cracking at the spoke attachment point. Factory vs handbuilt wheels A common debate is around factory vs handbuilt wheels. Confusingly factory wheels are, in fact, commonly built by hand – but the key distinction here is that factory wheels are built to an exact specification and you buy them as an off-the-shelf item, often with proprietary spoke and rim designs. Handbuilt wheels take a more classical approach, in which the hubs, spokes, nipples and rims are individual and commonplace items that can be chosen to best suit a rider's individual needs. Generally speaking, race wheels whether climbing or aerodynamic are mostly sold as factory options – with the big wheel brands dominating this space due to their research, development and marketing through sponsored teams.

Handbuilt wheels are commonly kept for training, long-distance and everyday uses. However, there are examples of where the opposites are true. Buying secondhand Wheels can be expensive, and secondhand items are commonly available for sale. Just as with a bike, the actual use and repair history of the wheels is crucially important when buying used. Your first step is to check how straight (true) the wheel is. Give it a spin and ensure it’s not buckled. Also check for any 'hop' within the height of the rim. Rims – check for wear of the brake surface, which should be flat and without any concave shape. Look for any sign of chips and then inspect the whole rim for cracks, especially around the spokes. Spokes – check that all the spokes are straight and without gouges or scratches. Squeeze the spokes two at a time – all the ones on the right should feel roughly even in tension with each other. Now do the same for the left, which should feel similar. Unevenness is a sign of a bent rim that’s being held in shape by spoke tension. Hubs – spin the wheels by holding onto the hub axles. The bearings should spin freely without any drag or notching.

Check that the freehub spins, and yet grabs when you rotate it forward. Also, be sure to double check freehub compatibility with your gears (as outlined above). Road wheel glossary Asymmetric rim – as the rear cassette sits on the right side of the hub, the point at which the spokes attach from the rear hub is offset to the left. With this, an assymetric rim is designed to give a more direct path from these offset spokes to the rim – with the desired result being a sturdier and stiffer wheel. Axle – the hub spins around the axle, which is attached to the dropouts of the frame and fork. On a road bike, the axle is always hollow and most commonly designed to work with a quick release lever Bladed spoke – a flattened spoke that’s designed to cut through the wind with less resistance. Bladed spokes are common in high-end wheels and also serve the purpose of providing an edge for a tool to hold onto – which can allow for high spoke tension to be achieved. Top spoke brands DT Swiss and Sapim both claim that their best bladed spokes are not only their lightest option, but also the strongest and most durable.

Butted spoke – a process to the spoke that sees the centre of the spoke being made thinner than the outer sections. When done correctly, this is known to encourage spoke flex away from the weak points, therefore leading to improved durability at a lower weight. Double butted means two different thicknesses; triple butted means three thicknesses. Cartridge bearing – in this system, bearings are contained in a cartridge that features the ball bearings, inner and outer race as one unit. The outer race is a tight press-fit into the hub shell, while the axle contacts the inner race. These items are considered perishable, where old are taped out and new cartridges pressed in place. Centerlock – a Shimano spline system for mounting a brake rotor onto the hub. Clincher – the most common type of tyre system on a road bike. Here a bead on the tyre locks with a lip on the rim. Clincher tyres use inner tubes to hold air. Cup and cone bearing – the alternative to cartridge bearing hubs is cup and cone. It's most common on entry-level wheels and all those sold by Shimano – these feature loose ball bearings that run on a permanent outer bearing race, with a cone shaped inner race that can be adjusted.

Disc brake – brake technology proven in mountain biking (and automotive prior to that) that places a thin plate-like braking surface (rotor) at the hub with a caliper that clamps onto it to slow the bike down. Dish – the relation of the rim over the hub. On nearly all frame designs, the rim must be perfectly centered over the hub. Double wall rim – this refers to the internal cross section of a rim. Where a single wall rim has one layer of material for the spokes connect to and the tyre to sit on, a double wall rim adds an additional level of material separating the two. This additional layer creates a box type section, which greatly aids in rim stiffness and wheel durability. Eyelet – a reinforcing ring in the spoke hole of a rim. An eyeleted rim typically allows for greater spoke tension and therefore a more durable wheel. A rim that claims to feature double eyelets will have the eyelets travel through both walls of the rim (see double wall rim). Freehub body – the mechanism on the rear wheel that allows a rider to coast or pedal backwards without resistance. Hub – sitting at the centre of the wheel is the hub, which contains the axle, bearings, and rear freehub and holds the spokes.

Machined sidewall – a finishing process after the rim is made, which helps ensure its braking faces are parallel and even. Nipple – the nipple is the nut of the spoke. Typically the nipple sits at the rim, though some wheel designs place the nipple at the hub. Open-tubular – effectively a type of clincher tyre system. Open tubulars differ slightly in their manufacturing technique, which is generally to a level similar to high-end tubulars. Quick release – A tool-free mechanism for attaching a wheel to a bike. It consists of a threaded rod connected to a lever-actuated cam assembly. The rod is slid through a hollow hub axle and a nut on the opposing side allows tension adjustment. Radial lacing – where the spoke leaves the hub and meets the rim in a straight line. This is the easiest form of wheel building and results in the shortest length (lightest weight) spoke possible. This style is popular for front wheels, but does not resist torque appropriately for use on the driveside of a rear wheel or with disc brakes. Rim – the outward hoop of the wheel that holds the tyre and acts as a braking surface for rim brakes.

Rim tape (AKA rim strip) – protective tape used to cover the multiple spoke holes in a rim. Without this, an inner tube would expand through the rim holes and puncture. Some top wheelsets from Shimano, Fulcrum, Mavic and others do not require rim tape. Sealed bearing – another name for cartridge bearing. Sleeve join – a method by which an alloy rim is joined to form a circle. Sleeve joins are a form of rivet; they are cheaper to produce than a welded join. Spoke – bars or wire rods that connect the hub to the rim. They can be made from steel, stainless steel (most common), titanium, aluminium or carbon fibre. Spoke flange – the section of the hub for which the spokes attach. Spoke gauge – this refers to the thickness of the spoke. Most common is ‘14G’, which commonly equates to a 2mm diameter, ‘15G’ is thinner at 1.8mm. Therefore, ‘straight gauge spokes’ feature a single diameter, whereas the most common double-butted spokes with a 2/1.8/2mm diameter across the length are sometimes referred to as ‘14/15G’.

Three-cross – this refers to the lacing pattern of the spokes – where each spoke crosses past another three times. This pattern is most common on 32- or higher spoked wheels. Thru-axle – a large axle that slides through closed frame dropouts and the hub for a stiffer and more secure wheel connection. Thru-axles are commonly used on mountain bikes (especially higher end ones) but are gradually becoming a more frequent sight on road bikes. Trueness – this refers to how straight a rim runs, adjusted via spoke tension (hence the expression to 'true' a wheel). Tubeless – an airtight clincher tyre system that uses a tight tyre fit and air pressure to hold the tyre in place. No inner tube is required. This system is backwards compatible with standard clincher tyres and tubes. Tubular – a type of tyre, also known as a ‘single’. The inner tube is stitched with the tread, and glued to a concave rim. This is the standard for pro-level racing. Tubular glue – a specific glue used to bond a tubular tyre with a tubular rim.

Tubular tape – a substitute to tubular glue, it’s effectively a double-sided tape that’s cleaner and easier to apply than tubular glue – although many argue not as good as glue. Two-cross – this refers to the lacing pattern of the spokes – where each spoke crosses past another twice. It's most common on wheels with 20-28 spoke counts. Valve hole – a hole in the rim for the tube’s/tubular/tubeless valve to fit through. Wear indicator – grooves or small holes on a rim’s braking surface to show rim condition. When the grooves or holes become flush with the rest of the rim, replacement is advised. Welded join – a method by which an alloy rim is joined to form a circle. Welded rims are typically more expensive than sleeve joins as this method results in a stronger and lighter connection. Wire Wheels 101 - Hot Rod Network Email OEM And Accessories: How To Spot The Originals And Where To Buy The Copies Of The Hot Rod And Custom World's Most Enduring Wire Wheel The wire wheel has to be the greatest relic of the automotive world.

Sure, it’s superior to the wood-spoked carryovers from the prior generation’s motorized carriages, but the disc-type wheel that superseded the wire pretty much stole its thunder. And that happened in the first quarter of the last century. Anymore, the wire is heavy, maintenance intensive, and wildly outdated. Still, it’s a perennial favorite. And for good reason, really; on the right car, nothing beats the proper wire wheel. This isn’t just opinion, either. As history shows, each generation “discovers” the mystique in the glint of the spokes. When that happens, the wire evolves to suit the times. As a result of this evolution by revolution, we have a pretty vast array of vintage wire wheels from which to choose-and all of ’em have appeared on at least one hot rod or custom over the years. Since popularity goes hand in hand with value, old wires are the old-car world’s gold standard. Second only to wear, the worst thing against old wires is the relative lack of reliable knowledge. Even that has its reasons; it seems anybody who attempts to define these wheels meets certain doom-or at least scorn from those who seem to know better. Ron Ceridono certainly found out in his Nov.

’01 “Shop Manual” entry regarding early Ford wires. A little oversight regarding some adapter rings they require when used on later hubs initiated a fecal tempest that took until the Apr. ’02 issue to clean up. This time, we armed ourselves for bear. Among the resources we mined was Jimmy McLean. If you have roots in this industry, the name should sound familiar. It’s because Jimmy’s dad, Gary, established his mark several times in the hot rod, custom car, lowrider, and luxury car market with several wire wheel brands including, among others, McLean, Sharp, and his latest, Rally America. As it turns out, you learn a lot about old wires while scouting for your ol’ man’s wheel shop. Though Jimmy’s just barely old enough to buy a beer, his knowledge far exceeds his years. Combine his observations with those of Mike Stallings, the chief over at Wheel Vintiques, and you’ve got a body of knowledge and experience that’s pretty hard to dispute. Going into this, it seemed pretty simple to categorize the whole body of popular wire wheels, but as we learned, there are more details than you’d think.

It’s for that reason that we broke this work into two pieces. With this installment, we’ll catalog the finer points of the OEM and specific-fit accessory wheels. Next month, we’ll dig into the aftermarket. V-8 Ford And Accessories If photos taken before December 7, 1941, serve as any indication, the wheels for a proper hot roadster were designed for ’32-35 Fords. Though the technically superior ’40 wheel was available for two years prior to that date, the cars weren’t yet old enough to populate boneyards in sufficient numbers to make their parts affordable. Lowest on the totem are the factory Ford rollers and the 17- and 18-inch accessories. But, the kings of the hill were-and still are-the 16-inch accessories. Due to their size, many assume they were intended for ’35s, but it’s been said that the majority of these wheels were intended to “upgrade” ’32-34 Fords to 16-inch tires. Though anecdotal, it makes sense; due to the auto industry’s almost universal adoption to that diameter by the late ’30s, there existed a vast array of tire sizes and styles.

With those 16s, there was also the promise of better ride and traction: Overall tire diameter being equal, a tire with a smaller wheel diameter has a wider tread and fatter sidewall. If that really was a popular objective, it may explain the existence of the rare 15-inch Kelsey Hayes wheel, a non-standard diameter for the era that would’ve used what was called at the time a balloon-type tire. While the V-8-style wire’s popularity waned after the war, those wheels made a pretty strong comeback in the late ’60s and early ’70s when renegades like Bo Jones, Bud Bryan, and Jim “Jake” Jacobs bolted them on their rolling calling cards. Using that era and the prewar period as examples, you could say the early wire wheel defined the early hot rod and street rod periods alike. Kelsey Hayes’ GM Wires The year 1953 was a watershed year for GM’s special-edition car releases. Both Cadillac and Buick finally got their El Dorado and Skylark specials that year. Most importantly, the bespoke spokes that adorned the cars in the Motorama shows appeared on the production models.

The wheels were part of each car’s design, but both brands offered them to customers whose taste outpaced their ability to buy the actual cars. At $325 a set in their day (nearly $3,000 in today’s dollars), these wheels were precious; however, they were far from rare. While the Eldo’s popularity was somewhat limited, the Skylark’s wheel appeared on just about everything. Though the company knew better by the time, Kelsey built these wheels to the old-standard 40-spoke two-cross pattern. While that design made a wheel more than strong enough to support a 2,500-pound car that rarely exceeded 50 mph, it was woefully inadequate on turnpike barges that easily doubled that weight. With hardly a strength margin to speak of, they require thoughtful care and handling. Motor Wheel Corp.Chrysler/Imperial/Packard/Hudson With its distinctive dog-bone center cap, nothing looks quite like the wire wheel made for the ’53-56 Chrysler Corp. cars. Despite their popularity, they’re relatively misunderstood. First, despite enduring folklore, they were made by Motor Wheel Corp. and not Kelsey Hayes. Second, they weren’t exclusive to Chrysler.

According to Jimmy at Rally America, Motor Wheel offered no less than 10 different variations of the design to the OEM world for factory options (Packard and Hudson, for one example) and to the aftermarket world as parts-store accessories (early Thunderbird and Corvette for another). Though the wheels differ in several ways, including bolt pattern, width, and wheel offset, the caps are interchangeable due to a universal register. The Chrysler wire also has a little-known stepbrother of sorts: the wheel made for the Dodge, Plymouth, and later DeSoto and Packard. They have similar hubs and take the same cap, but there’s no mistaking the two. Whereas all of the spokes in most wire wheels terminate in the rim’s drop center-or well-the construction usually limits wheel-offset options. To give the Dodge’s wheel the positive offset it needed to fit under the fenders of the smaller car, Motor Wheel terminated the face spokes in the outermost wheel flange, or felloe as it’s often called. Kelsey Hayes Thunderbird Sports RoadsterWhen Ford tooled up for its special-edition ’62 and ’63 Thunderbird roadster, it patronized one of its long-standing vendors, Kelsey Hayes.

Just as Motor Wheel did for the smaller Dodge, Kelsey lip-laced these wheels to fit them under the narrower T-bird. Speaking of Motor Wheel, there are a few important things to understand about T-bird wheels. The Kelsey wheels that Ford sold on the Sports Roadster and in its parts departments from 1962 onward were different from those available for the earlier T-birds. According to Jimmy, those earlier wheels were made by Motor Wheel. They were never a factory-authorized Ford part. The official Ford wheels also had a 14-inch diameter. Vintage Wire Safety And LimitationsWe take wheels for granted nowadays. We can bolt the most exotic ones to a car and pretty much forget about ’em and risk nothing more than aesthetics. A wire isn’t quite so forgiving. If neglected, they can actually fail in a fairly short time-hence one of the reasons the OEMs abandoned them nearly a century ago. Imagine what the passing of time has done to most. It’s for those reasons that wheel builders like Mike Stallings and Jimmy McLean emphasize a high level of scrutiny when shopping for vintage wire wheels.

“Thirty years ago when these things were all over the place, it wasn’t so bad, but you should see the stuff they’re dragging out of wrecking yards and riverbeds lately-it’s scary,” Mike observed. For example, the slightest corrosion can spell doom to a wire wheel if it’s in the right place. “Pay attention to the dimpled area of the rim,” Mike instructed. “If it’s bad, spokes can pull right through.” Jimmy said to check the area immediately around the lug holes on the Ford V-8-style wheels and their accessory counterparts; if the wheels have been run without the registration lugs or adapter rings, the holes are likely worn or cracked. He also instructed us to pay attention to hubs on the ’53 Cadillac wheels, as the transition from the wheel mounting face and the hub itself is very sharp and often cracks. There’s also this enduring notion that radial tires are a bad idea on wheels intended for bias-ply tires. While he didn’t categorically dismiss it, Mike did caution against it for one main reason: driving style. “Nowadays, we’re used to putting a 6,000-pound car into a corner at 80 miles per hour,” he noted.

Whereas a bias-ply tire will slide, a radial “will transfer a lot more lateral load, and an early wheel might not be able to handle that.” On the other hand, the gentler rim radiuses and safety beads, among other things on modern rims, have made wheels stronger, Mike said. How much stronger? In 1955, when these wheels were new and strong, they were expected to handle a 900- to 1,000-pound side load; however, “Today we’re building wheels to make sure they’ll handle 1,400 to 1,500.” SEE ALL 26 PHOTOS FROM THE ARTICLE Wire Wheel Facts - Hot Rod Network Email 12 Things You Need To Know About Wire Wheels Wire wheels were once the only option on cars. They came that way, and you didn’t have any choice. Over time, steel artillery-style wheels and then disc wheels came into vogue, especially from an original equipment manufacturer perspective. The reasoning was pretty simple, too: Disc wheels (your standard hot rod “solids”) were certainly durable, but more importantly, they were, and still are, cheap and easy to build.

So far so good, but look around today, and guess what? Wire wheels are back, and in a big way. There’s a good reason for that, too. Plenty of rodders took one look at their existing rolling stock and pretty much figured out we’ve been there and done that. There had to be something else. Something with “texture.” Something with character. Something with history. Ka-boing. A big bell rang. Wire wheels are now popular again, and we’re seeing more and more of them used on new builds as a result. Not only do the revitalized wires add a new dimension to a street rod build, but they also bring up plenty of questions-particularly for rodders weaned on billet wheels, traditional mags, or even solids. We’re in the same boat, and like you, we didn’t have the answers, either. We turned to the largest manufacturer of aftermarket wire wheels in the business, Dayton Wire Wheels, and asked for input. Check out the following series of questions and answers, because what we discovered just might surprise you. Street Rodder: Earlier wheels were primarily tube type. Now automotive wire wheels are tubeless. What does your company do to make them tubeless?

Dayton Wire Wheels: The customer’s tire choice and that tire’s technology dictate how the wheels will be completed. Dayton Wire Wheels often manufactures the same wheel in both tubeless and tube-type configurations. Many vintage tires require tubes; therefore, the wheel is manufactured to meet those requirements, including special valve-hole configurations to accept the application-specific tube. For customers who choose, or have a vehicle that specifies a modern-style tubeless radial tire, Dayton manufactures the wheel with a tubeless-style valve hole and finishes the wheel with a proprietary two-part silicone sealant. The sealant is engineered to maintain its properties through a wide temperature range and survive the demands of highway use. Tubeless wheels are 100 percent leak-tested in a specialized helium test chamber that is sensitive enough to detect a leak that would cause your tire to deflate over a three-month period of time. SR: Are all of today’s wire wheels tubeless, or is this something Dayton has a better grasp on than other companies? DWW: Not all wire wheels are tubeless. Some wire-wheel manufacturers require tubes while others seal every wheel they sell. We feel Dayton’s application-specific approach is the best option, and is perfectly matched for the application.

“Universal” wheels increase the likelihood of inner tube failure (leaks) or leaks that develop at the valve hole. Dayton began experimenting with sealing its wheels in the late 1970s and perfected the process in 1983. Sealer material, application methods, and testing technology has evolved ever since. Today, a tubeless Dayton wire wheel is as reliable as any alloy alternative. SR: As we understand it, early wire wheels required “truing.” Can you tell us what this amounted to and why it isn’t necessary with today’s wheels? DWW: Early wire wheels were revolutionary as a way to increase performance while reducing weight. However, these same wheels required a great deal of attention. Early rim technology, spoke geometry, and hub design all contributed to the maintenance problem, as the assembly would often flex under load. Modern materials, design technology, and assembly methods can now preload the spokes with equal tension while maintaining run-out specifications and rigidity. Dayton’s proprietary system, called Permatrue, combines technology, materials, and assembly techniques to produce a maintenance-free product; the customer will never be inconvenienced with truing their Dayton wire wheels. SR: What types of materials are used for spokes?

What is the difference? DWW: There is an age-old debate about the advantages/disadvantages of various spoke materials. Some claim chrome-plated carbon steel is the best option, while others contend that plating carbon steel spokes will cause hydrogen embrittlement. Stainless steel spokes will not rust, but some claim it is too soft to sustain the loads in a wire wheel. Dayton believes the composition of the material (carbon steel or stainless) is the key to lasting performance; whether using high-carbon steel wire for painted wheels, or high-nickel stainless for chrome wheels, the properties of the wire is what matters. SR: What’s the best spoke material? DWW: Tight material specifications will ultimately determine the longevity of the finished product. Carefully monitoring the ultimate tensile strength, ultimate yield strength, and the percent of elongation of the material is the key. Every coil of wire has a unique “heat” cycle when it is drawn from bar stock. The material in that heat must be analyzed by a lab for conformity to specifications. Dayton’s specifications have been developed over 90 years of research and development. The specifications are unique to the carbon steel and to the stainless steel. Testing confirms that the material properties are the critical factor.

So, is one material better than the other? The advantage, although slight, goes to the non-plated spoke-stainless or carbon steel. SR: How critical is the spoke gauge? DWW: The gauge is important based on a couple of factors: wheel load, number of spokes, and the spoke bend. Thicker spokes, in theory, can support more load. However, thicker spokes do not respond well to tight bends. Wheels with a high spoke count become geometric challenges, and a thinner spoke allows more clearance for the required angles. Swaging the spokes (cold forming from a large diameter to a smaller diameter) does add strength to the shank of the spoke while maintaining the original spoke diameter at the bend. There is a delicate balance between many thin spokes and fewer thick spokes. (Think about nailing two boards together-a few nails will produce a solid result; too many nails will weaken the wood and therefore the joint.) SR: Why do some wheels have more or less spokes? How critical is spoke count (number of spokes)? DWW: In general, wheels with more spokes can support higher weight loads. However, too many spokes can actually weaken the hub and the rim (Swiss cheese effect).

So, there are limits as to how many spokes go into a wheel. Consumers seem to prefer less spokes from a cosmetic standpoint, but safety will always be the driving force of spoke count. Spoke angles are actually more important than spoke count. The angle of the spoke from the top of the hub to the back of the rim must maintain a specific ratio to the angle of the spoke from the base of the hub to the front of the rim. Additionally, the angles of a cross-lace wire wheel design and the wheel’s ability to sustain alternating torsional load (acceleration and braking) are significant. Depending on the design, greater cross-angle typically means more strength. SR: There are different types of lacing types used. What is the difference? Is there a better type of lacing for various applications (for example, a wheel that is configured for a knock-off or one this configured for a regular lug nut)? DWW: Dayton manufactures two primary lace patterns. The first is a cross-lace wheel and the second is a radial-lace wheel. Customer preference (appearance) is the primary driver of the two patterns. Radial-lace wheels are used in Knock-Off automotive wheels and Motorcycle wheels.

Cross-lace wheels are used for auto and motorcycles and allow for greater versatility in automotive applications by accommodating different bolt circles. Cross-lace automotive wheels can be manufactured in Knock-Off, Bolt-On, Classic II, or Classic III hub styles. Cross-lace is perceived to be more traditional, but history shows that the radial-lace wheels existed before the cross-lace. SR: What is the primary rim material used in the manufacture of wire wheels? Is there a better material for a specific application? DWW: The primary and most common wire wheel rim material is rolled steel. Other rims used to manufacture wire wheels include spun steel, spun aluminum, and cast aluminum. Aluminum has its advantages in reducing weight (especially spun aluminum), but it’s limited in its load-bearing capabilities. Cast-aluminum rims can carry more load than spun aluminum, but they do so by adding mass (weight). Steel rims are the most common for everyday road use. Cast-aluminum rims are not available in many sizes but have advantages for modern cars that are more sensitive to unsprung weight. SR: We know your company manufactures a wide range of wheel sizes.

Are there any restrictions in terms of sizing a rodder can specify (for example, a 15×4-inch or a 16×12-inch wheel)? DWW: Diameters vary from 13 to 24 inches. Depending on diameter, the width can range from 3 to 12-plus inches. Custom rims can be manufactured at additional expense. SR: On a similar note, are there any restrictions on wheel backspacing? DWW:There are a few limitations to backspacing depending on the location of the drop-center of a specific rim. Wheels can be manufactured to accommodate a variety of backspacing by lacing the spokes into the bead of the rim, the well of the rim, or a combination of the two. SR: Does a wire wheel present a clearance issue with something like a brake caliper? DWW: Dayton holds multiple patents for hub design that were developed specifically for disc brake applications. Oversized brakes on cars with wide tracks and limited fender clearance can be a challenge, but in most cases we can accommodate drum or disc brakes.

Customers with custom builds are required to complete a fitment sheet of their vehicle (front and back) to make sure we can fit the application prior to building the wheels. SEE ALL 10 PHOTOS FROM THE ARTICLE How do wheels work? | Science of wheels and axles Tweet by Chris Woodford . Last updated: October 10, 2016. Wheels are everywhere in our world today—in very obvious places (on cars, trucks, and airplanes ), but also hidden inside everything from computer hard-drives and clothes washers to electric toothbrushes and dishwashers . Six thousand years ago, there weren't any wheels at all. The rise of the wheel, from a basic turntable that helped people mold clay pots to a key component in hundreds of important inventions , owes everything to the simple and effective way it helps us capture and harness energy and transform forces. Let's take a closer look! Photo: Ship's wheel: Wheels help vehicles to move along by transferring and reducing friction (as we explain below), but they also work as levers. If you turn the outside of a wheel like this, the axle at the center turns more slowly but with more force.

In other words, a large steering wheel helps a sailor to turn a ship's rudder more easily than a small wheel. If you imagine each spoke is a lever, it's easy to see how this wheel works. Why isn't the wheel solid? Thick spokes provide a great deal of strength while reducing the weight compared to a solid wheel of the same size. Photo by Shannon Heavin courtesy of US Navy Why we need wheels In modern times, we assume there have to be roads for wheels to travel on. But wheels were first used on carts precisely because there were no smooth tracks to use for reliable transportation. Before carts were invented, people dragged loads on sledges and frames hauled behind animals such as horses and dogs. Sledges were an effective way to move heavy loads before wheels were invented, but friction slows them down. Frames, where a load is part dragged and part carried, help to solve this problem. The A-shaped dragging frame, known as a travois , is thought to have been invented thousands of years ago and Native Americans used it up until the 19th century. Even with animal power to help, friction between the rough ground and the frame made the going difficult.

Photo: Friction isn't a problem when you're traveling on ice, like the occupant of this dogsled. But sledges don't move nearly so well on normal terrain: that's why wheels were invented. Photo by Jo Goldmann, courtesy of US Fish & Wildlife Service . How do wheels work? Dragging a load using a wheeled cart is far easier than dragging it on the ground—for two reasons: Wheels reduce friction. Instead of simply sliding over the ground, the wheels dig in and rotate, turning around sturdy rods called axles. That means the only friction the animals have to overcome is at the point where the wheel and axle meet—between the relatively smooth inner surface of the wheels and the equally smooth outer surface of the axles around which they turn. Wheels provide leverage (in other words, they are examples of force multipliers or simple machines ). A cart with bigger wheels is easier to push because its greater-diameter wheels work like bigger levers, multiplying the pulling or pushing force and making it easier to turn the wheels around their axles—in exactly the same way that a long spanner makes it easier to loosen a nut. Let's look at both these things in more detail. 1.

Shifting friction to the axle When you push a box on the ground, there's a lot of friction between the bottom of the box and the ground below for two reasons: 1) the ground is rough; 2) there's a large area of box in contact with it: When you push the same box loaded onto a cart with four wheels, there's much less resistance. The box no longer has to slide along the ground so that part of the friction disappears. However, wheels don't eliminate friction entirely, as some people think—far from it! There must be friction between the four wheels and the ground or they'd simply slide along (like something being pushed on ice). Friction between each wheel and the ground helps it "dig in" so the wheel can rotate. Carts are easier to push because the only real friction you have to work against is between the four wheels and their axles. As you push a cart, the relatively smooth inside surfaces of the wheels rotate and slide around the relatively smooth outsides of the axles. There's also relatively little area of each wheel rubbing around its axle.

These two things together mean there's much less friction compared to pushing the box straight along the ground—and that's why the cart makes loads easier to move: 2. Providing leverage Wheels on carts help in another important way too: they work like levers. The rim of a wheel turns a greater distance than the axle so, in the case where you're pushing a cart from behind or pulling it from the front, there is more force at the axle than at the rim. That means it really helps if your cart has big wheels because they give you more leverage, magnify your pushing force, and help you overcome the force of friction at the axles. Turn a wheel at the rim and the force you apply (red arrow) is multiplied to give a bigger force at the axle (blue arrow). The bigger the wheel, the greater the effect, because the radius of the wheel works like a lever. The bigger the wheel, the longer the lever, and the more leverage you get. Turn the wheel at the center, instead, and it works the opposite way. Now the rim of the wheel goes further and faster. That's how you can use a bigger wheel to multiply speed.

However, if you apply a force at the center of a wheel, the leverage works in reverse and you get less force at the rim, even though you're getting more speed there. Just as with gears , you can't increase both the force and the speed at the same time. If you increase one of them, you must reduce the other, otherwise you'd be using a wheel to make energy out of thin air (which violates a basic law of physics called the conservation of energy ). Who invented the wheel? People were using animals for transportation long before the invention of the wheel and even before the development of human settlements and agriculture in the Middle East around 8,000–9,000BCE. Dogs are believed to been tamed and domesticated in China around 13,000BCE; horses were domesticated much more recently around 4500BCE. Animals used for human transportation in this way are called beasts of burden. No-one knows exactly when, where, or how wheels were invented.

Potters wheels are believed to have been widely used around 7000 years ago in Mesopotamia (a region of the Middle East now largely occupied by Iraq): it's easy to imagine how a potter might have hit upon the idea after repeatedly rotating a stool to work on a pot from different angles. We don't know when the potter's wheel was invented either, but some historians believe it may date from as far back as 8000BCE. In its early form, it was little more than a turntable or "tournette" mounted on a central support. Perhaps someone eventually turned a potter's wheel through 90 degrees to make a new kind of transportation, or perhaps the wheel was completely reinvented for this new purpose, but another 1000–1500 years elapsed before wheels were first used on carts. Most likely, someone using tree trunks as rollers realized their job would be easier if the logs could somehow be fixed in place underneath the load, sliced up like salami so they would pass more easily over and around obstacles. Such an effective idea was bound to spread widely and the wheel found its way to Europe and Asia during the following millennium.

Wheels work more effectively when they have a smooth road surface to travel on. The Romans pioneered road-building from the 5th millennium BC onward as a way of linking disparate parts of their empire. Roman roads were built in a similar way to modern ones from layers of different materials, including large boulders to support weight, and smaller stones, sand, and tiles to allow drainage. Often cement and concrete (another important Roman technology) were used to bind loose materials together. On top, there was a hard-wearing surface made of flattened stones cut and pieced together like a jigsaw. Roman roads were famously built in straight lines to minimize traveling time. Photo: The gear evolved from the wheel and axle. Put lots of gear wheels together and you can transform force and speed in a machine in all kinds of ways. Development of the wheel In terms of their basic science, the wheels that carry our vehicles today are virtually identical to those first used in ancient times: though built with more sophisticated materials, they are still essentially flat discs rotating on solid axles. More interesting is the way wheels have evolved in other ways in a range of increasingly complex machines.

With the addition of teeth around their rim, wheels become gears , capable of changing the torque (rotational force) of a machine or its speed: gears enable a bicycle to go fast or climb a hill very slowly—with the rider pedaling at exactly the same rate in both cases. Extended into drums, wheels can be used as winches to raise water from wells, rocks from mines, or anchors into ships : simple machines of this kind are known as capstans and windlasses. Winches that use several wheels, linked by multiple lengths of rope, become pulleys : powerful machines that greatly magnifying pulling forces, allowing a person to lift many times their own weight. Wheels form the heart of turbines (machines that capture energy from a moving liquid or gas): waterwheels and windmills, civilization's most important sources of machine power in the Middle Ages, both evolved from a basic wheel turning around an axle. Engines too rely on wheels to convert fuel into energy and drive a vehicle: in a modern car engine , for example, fuel burning in the cylinders pumps pistons back and forth, turning an off-center axle known as a crankshaft , which then powers the gearbox and the road wheels.

In 7000 years, the wheel has gone far beyond its original use as a pottery-making tool. By helping us to move loads, harness energy, and transform forces, this simple but amazingly effective invention literally made it possible for people to conquer the world! Photo: Water turbines (like this one from the Grand Coulee Dam in Washington State, USA) also evolved from the wheel and axle. Photo by courtesy of US Bureau of Reclamation . Wheel Anatomy 101: Structure Wheel Anatomy 101: Structure By Sean Phillips Updated October 02, 2016. Welcome to Wheel Anatomy 101. Today we will be reviewing the major structural aspects of automotive wheels, focusing on the outboard, or structural face of the wheel. Students, if you will all take your seats, we can begin the class. The outboard face is the part of the wheel you can see when it is bolted onto the car. We often refer to it as the “cosmetic face” but it is also the structural face of the wheel, since the other side is essentially required to be an open cylinder.

This makes the outer faceless directly vulnerable to impact damage, since it is simply easier to bend the open cylinder than the structure, but it can also make the damage that does occur a lot worse. To see standard wheel diagrams, click here , and here . You may find it useful to right-click and open the links in new tabs in order to refer to the diagrams while class is proceeding. Center Bore Structurally, the empty space inside the center bore is one of the most important points on the wheel. This hole fits over the end of the axle when the wheel is bolted on. It is this fit between the axle seat and the center bore that truly holds the weight of the car, as lugnuts only serve to keep the wheel on the axle. For this reason, OEM wheels are made to fit closely on the axle seats of their designated cars. When buying aftermarket rims, care must be taken to ensure that the center bore is the same or larger than the OEM size - large enough to fit over the axle. Most correct aftermarket wheels will have center bores that are larger than the OEM size, and so the gap between must be filled by “ hub-centric spacers ” to avoid damaging both wheels and lugnuts.

Plate Around the center bore there is generally a substantial piece of metal interrupted only by the bolt holes. We call this the plate. The plate is the core of the wheel, the point of contact to the axle seat, the lug bolts and the lateral surface of the rotor. Everything else on the wheel is connected back to the plate. Spokes In essence, the spokes are the structures between the plate and the outer edge of the wheel. They are designed to tie the wheel together, support the outer edge and resist impacts. Spoke designs vary wildly, from the classic 5-spoke patterns to intricately overlapping multiple “Y”-spoke extravaganzas. It's important to note that the strength and damage resistance of spoke designs also vary, because if a spoke gets cracked by an impact the nature of the structural relationship is such that attempting to repair it by welding would be unwise and possibly dangerous. Dish Although it also refers to the outer part of a 3-piece wheel, the dish is generally thought of as that portion of the wheel that comes out beyond the spokes.

A wheel where the spokes are sunk inches below the lip is a “deep-dish wheel.” Deep-dish wheels are mostly made for looks, with the extra space being used to showcase a polish or other nice finish. However, the deeper the dish, the more vulnerable the face of the wheel is to impact damage, as that outer rim is hanging out in space. The more distance from the spokes, the more leverage an impact has to bend that outer rim , or in the worst-case fold the dish against a spoke and crack it. This kind of crack is also not safe to repair, since the repair is inevitably weaker than the original and can fail catastrophically. Bolt Circle The bolt circle is the circle described by the centers of the lug bolts. Its diameter is inexplicably called the Bolt Circle Diameter, or BCD. The number of bolts plus the BCD comprises the bolt pattern , so that 5 lug bolts at a 4.5 inch BCD can be described as a 5x4.5” bolt pattern. Bolt patterns vary between car makers, sometimes even between model lines.

For example, most BMW wheels are 5x120mm except some very early 4x100mm models, while almost all Mercedes wheels are 5x112mm, which is why you can't crossfit wheels from one to the other. Valve Stem Somewhere on the wheel a small hole must be drilled for a valve stem , that universal mechanism by which we fill our tires with air. Just that small hole will often make one side of the wheel lighter than the other side – enough so that a good spin balancer will often have to compensate for it. Valve stems range from the good old-fashioned snap-in rubber stems to fancy metal stems with rubber gasket seals to the current mandated explosion of TPMS modules with valve stems on them. This completes our module on the structural aspects of automotive wheels. Thank you for your attention, and please join us next time for Wheel Anatomy 201, which will concentrate on the outer barrel and energy transfer points of the wheel.

Question: What are the bars or wire rods called which connect the hub of a wheel to its rim?
Answer: Spokes