A Thousand Islands and One Heart - latimes A Thousand Islands and One Heart Charles Hillinger's America November 26, 1989 |CHARLES HILLINGER | TIMES STAFF WRITER HEART ISLAND, N.Y. — Thousand Island salad dressing was named after the Thousand Islands, a group of islands scattered along a 50-mile path of the St. Lawrence River that separates New York State from Ontario, Canada. There are actually 1,800 islands in the archipelago, a third in the United States, two-thirds in Canada. Of all the Thousand Islands, Heart Island is perhaps the most intriguing. Its legacy is a fascinating but sad love story. It was purchased at the turn of the century by millionaire George Boldt, the manager of the Waldorf Astoria, who set about having the 5-acre island dredged in the shape of a heart as a demonstration of his love for his wife, Louise. Then from 1900 to 1904 Boldt employed a work force of 300 men to construct a replica of a 6-story, 120-room German castle in the middle of the island.

To furnish the castle, the Boldts made several trips to Europe, spending a fortune on statues, paintings, tapestries, furniture, rugs, mosaics, dinnerware and carvings. Boldt had hundreds of hearts carved on the exterior and interior of the castle as expressions of his great love for Louise. By 1904 some $2.5 million had been spent on the structure. The exterior was about complete, and masons, electricians, carpenters and painters were busy on the inside when a telegram from Boldt arrived at the castle, instructing the workmen to lay down their tools. Their job was done. That was the day Louise Boldt, 45, died of consumption. The castle stood vacant, unfinished. Boldt never set foot on Heart Island again. He died in 1916. The castle slowly deteriorated over the years until 1978 when the Thousand Islands Bridge Authority, operators of the 8-mile international bridge connecting the United States and Canada and crossing over to the islands, purchased Heart Island and the castle. For $3 the bridge authority allows visitors to tour the Heart Island grounds and see the inside of the castle.

Shane Sanford, who manages the island, reports that $4 million have been spent in stabilizing and restoring the castle the past three years. "We expect it will take at least another $5 million to bring the castle, the grounds and the other structures on Heart Island to the condition they were in when Mrs. Boldt died," Sanford said. At the turn of the century, many of America's wealthiest families had mansions on these islands, including the Kelloggs of breakfast food fame, the Heinemans of Buster Brown Shoes, George Pullman of railroads sleeping cars. President Ulysses S. Grant vacationed on Pullman's island. More than 300 of the islands are less than an acre, big enough only for a home and a dock. Just-Room-Enough is one of the the tiny one-house islands. Lone Tree Island has a house and one tree. Paul Quackenbush, 53, has the only house on Friendly Island where he lives year-round. It's 2.1 acres. Ships from all over the world sail within a few feet of Quackenbush's shoreline home.

"We can almost reach out and shake hands with the captain on the bridge of the large ships, sailing from England, France, Italy, Russia, China, from all over the world to Great Lakes ports," said Quackenbush. "My two sons, Pieter, 5, and Tony, 9, amuse themselves by keeping a log with the names of the ships, where they're from, when they went by. We wave to people on the ships. They wave back. Sometimes a ship will blast a long and two shorts--which means hello--as they go by the house." Quackenbush commutes to work by motorboat except during the winter months when he walks across the frozen river the quarter mile to the mainland. The St. Lawrence Seaway is not open December to April when the river is full of ice. Larry Cuppernal and his wife, Catherine, moved to Grindstone, one of the larger islands, 13 years ago. "We came here because we didn't want our kids growing up on the streets with drug problems," explained Cuppernal. They have eight children who range in age from 10 to 22.

Until last year Grindstone Island, with 50 year-round residents, had the only one-room schoolhouse in New York. But it closed when enrollment fell this fall to two. It's two miles from the island to the mainland. "During the winter, the weather gets snotty, 45 below zero, blizzards. The river is full of ice. So from December to April our kids live on the mainland near school and come home weekends, weather permitting. The school board provides room and board for them to stay with friends," said Cuppernal. Real estate broker Natalie Honeywell in Alexandria Bay on the New York mainland noted that there are always islands and shoals for sale: "Shoals are little more than huge rocks that are under water part of the year. Shoals sell for as much as $8,000 to $10,000 each. There are about 100 shoals in the thousand islands group.

People like the idea of having their own private shoal to tie up a boat and hold picnics." Honeywell has individual islands, with one home and a dock, for sale ranging from $250,000 to $800,000. A Thousand Islands of Summer -- National Geographic A Thousand Islands of Summer Traveling between the U.S. and Canada is easy via the international bridge. Photograph by Will van Overbeek, National Geographic By Patrick J. Kelly From the May 2010 issue of National Geographic Traveler Escape to a place that is foreign, even mythical, yet right on America’s doorstep. My know-it-all neighbor across the street from my home in Texas assured me that there was no such place as the Thousand Islands. "It's a salad dressing," Gary said, nodding toward the creamy condiment I'd brought to his barbecue. "Does anybody know where the Thousand Islands is?" I'd asked the group assembled in the backyard, asserting that it sounded like a mysterious wonderland worth checking out. "You can't go there," Gary insisted, as if he were speaking to a five-year-old. I ran home, went online, and returned five minutes later holding up a printout.

"Renowned as the freshwater-boating capital of the world," I read to the group, "the Thousand Islands is an archipelago that straddles the U.S.-Canada border in the St. Lawrence Seaway. And," I took a breath, "Thousand Island dressing is the only salad dressing that is named for a geographic location in North America." I waved my bottle of dressing for dramatic effect. "Great," Gary said. "Maybe you should move there." I'm thinking of a suitable souvenir for Gary as my flight touches down in Syracuse, New York, where I rent a car to begin my trip to the Thousand Islands. I've been wanting to get away to somewhere foreign but not too distant and a place where, ideally, English is widely spoken. The Thousand Islands—like Atlantis or Shangri-La—seems foreign enough, even mythical, and right at America's doorstep. From Syracuse, I'll head north 98 miles to the Canadian border, ending up about 30 miles from where Lake Ontario empties into the St. Lawrence River, which flows east toward the Atlantic.

The international border zigzags through the Thousand Islands, never touching land, with New York state on one side and the Canadian province of Ontario on the other. Here, where a branch of the Canadian Shield runs south to meet the Adirondacks, lies the "Thousand Islands-Frontenac Arch" region—designated a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve in 2002. The islands range from about 50 square miles to the size of a carport and, to be counted in the group, must stay above water 365 days a year and support at least one living tree. Considering that some 1,800 islands have made the cut, I've decided to limit my exploration to only the principal islands and riverside towns. I'll start in Alexandria Bay, New York, and work my way west (upriver) to the bayside village of Clayton, continuing west along the U.S. shoreline to Cape Vincent, overlooking the lake. Then I'll hop a ferry across the bay to Kingston, Ontario, push east along the Canadian shoreline to Gananoque, Ontario, then hook up with the Thousands Islands International Bridge to cross back to the U.S.

mainland, completing a whirlwind, clockwise tour of this 50-mile stretch of the St. Lawrence. Along the way I'll take in Wellesley and Grindstone (the two largest U.S. islands), Wolfe Island (in Canadian waters), and a dozen or so smaller isles. I'll try to cram in what a week off from work will allow and, I hope, not get lost any more than necessary. Crystal clear water, vivid green forests, 90-degree sunshine, and streets swarming with pirates greet me at my first stop, Alexandria Bay, situated on the south bank of the St. Lawrence. The village (year-round population: 1,800) is in the throes of its annual, ten-day summer bacchanalia dedicated to legendary pirate Bill Johnston. In 1838, Johnston notoriously boarded, robbed, then sank a British riverboat within musket range of what's now a modern town known for its dive shops, upscale rod-and-tackle stores, and handsome, tree-lined neighborhoods. I have time before the pirate parade to board a sight-seeing boat departing for a scenic tour of Millionaire's Row.

During the late 19th century, movers and shakers of the Gilded Age flocked to the Thousand Islands, building grand hotels and summer vacation homes complete with docks for their hundred-foot steam yachts. Among this early group were George Pullman of railroad sleeping car fame; Henry Marcus Quackenbush, inventor of the double-hinged nutcracker and the Daisy Red Ryder BB gun; the Kellogg family, who brought us Frosted Flakes; and George Charles Boldt, proprietor of New York City's Waldorf-Astoria Hotel. He commissioned a six-story, 120-room, Rhineland-style castle on Heart Island for his wife, Louise. Five-acre Heart Island, not far from Alexandria Bay, got its name after George Boldt spent a king's ransom fashioning the island and docking facilities into the shape of a heart. We stop to tour Boldt Castle. Picture a medieval European castle upgraded with plate glass windows, wrap-around verandas, an indoor pool, an elevator, and a steam power station. Wistful Enya music emanating from the ballroom drifts out to the Italian gardens and children's playhouse. I'm reminded of the Taj Mahal, impressive yet tinged with sadness.

Louise died unexpectedly in 1904 while the castle was under construction, putting hundreds of stonemasons and craftsmen out of work. George Boldt never stepped foot on Heart Island again. The tale brings a tear to my eye, which I hide behind a pair of sunglasses bought in the gift shop. Back in Alexandria Bay for the parade, I see tractors towing wooden skiffs tarted up to resemble pirate ships, sea wenches singing bawdy sea chanteys, classic and not so classic cars, and the ubiquitous weekend Harley riders in love with the sound of their own motors. The highlight, for me, is the Brockville Infantry Company, a crack drill team decked out in 1860s-period uniforms, hailing from Brockville, Ontario, about 18 miles east of here, across the bay. The Canadians halt, load, then fire their muskets in unison, prompting involuntary screams from spectators. I'd like to help the revelers close down the pubs, but I've booked an early morning fishing trip in Clayton, New York, about 12 miles upriver. "Head down main street and turn when you see the kayaks," Captain Clay Ferguson tells me over the phone.

Next morning I'm aboard Ferguson's vintage 1951 Chris-Craft Day Cruiser Hard Top, 27 feet of polished mahogany powered by a 440-cubic-inch Chrysler V-8 engine. We're motoring through a sport fishing paradise, home to black bass, northern pike, walleye, and the muskellunge, or muskie, a prehistoric-looking creature weighing up to 70 pounds, with a mouthful of needlelike teeth. "You don't fish for muskies," Ferguson says. "You hunt them." Ferguson is a second-generation fishing guide with 44 years of experience. Back in the day, he tells me, wealthy families would arrive in the Thousand Islands by steam train with mounds of luggage that would be loaded into skiffs and rowed to their respective summer homes. In 1938, a new bridge connected the two countries, and more and more tourists began arriving by car. Ferguson's hometown of Clayton, the geographic center of the region, gradually switched from lumber and shipbuilding to tourism—diving, kayaking, waveboarding, sailing, skiing, and riding motorized personal watercraft—has increased.

We're drifting between Grindstone and Wellesley Islands on the U.S. side. "Some of my childhood buddies, farm boys, used to live on these islands," the captain says, but today, the dairy farms are long gone. Some 39 percent of eight-square-mile Grindstone Island is protected by the Thousand Islands Land Trust. Visitors can hike and camp at the two state parks—Canoe Point and Picnic Point—on the northeast corner of the island, accessible only by boat. Wellesley Island, covering 15 square miles, has two parks and three golf-course country clubs—and is accessible by rental car. Maybe I should've booked a tee time instead of gone fishing. The highlight of our chartered trip is the shore dinner, a guide-prepared meal that's supposed to feature the client's catch of the day, which, in my case, poses a problem. So far, fishing neophyte that I am, I've caught nothing, despite several instances in which the captain hooked me a whopper and handed me the line. "Don't stop reeling!" the captain booms.

"Jeez, that was another 18- or 20-inch pike you just lost." He pulls out his secret weapon, a red-and-white-striped, daredevil spoon lure. (Evidently, if you can't land a northern pike with this lure, you may as well take up knitting.) An agonizing hour later I say, "Can't we just eat the fish you caught?" In short order the captain is standing before a blazing wood fire at Picnic Point preparing a made-from-scratch meal unlike any I've ever had. "Here ya go," he says, handing me the appetizer, a hot, deep-fried fatback and onion sandwich on white bread. "More cholesterol than ten sticks of butter, and I only use raw Vidalia onions from Georgia," he boasts, as he throws our specially breaded northern pike into an iron skillet of flaming fatback grease.

The main course includes boiled salt potatoes, steamed corn on the cob, local curd cheese, thick slices of Italian bread, and a freshly tossed garden salad with, you guessed it, Thousand Island dressing, original recipe, as in the original recipe, the one Sophia LaLonde dreamed up in Clayton back in the early 1900s. LaLonde was the wife of a local fishing guide who, according to legend, first served the dressing to clients during their shore dinner. Eventually, George Boldt got a taste, added the dressing to the menu at the Waldorf, and the rest, as they say, is salad bar history. (Talk to someone in Alexandria Bay, however, and you get a different version of the legend.) Dessert today is French toast with cream and thick maple syrup, washed down with flame-brewed cowboy coffee fortified with raw eggs, crushed shells and all. The feast is capped off by a double shot of Jack Daniels to aid digestion and to allow our arteries to function long enough to haul the leftovers and solid iron cookware back down to the boat. I give it five stars.

With Captain Ferguson playing harmonica and singing along with CD music, we enjoy a leisurely cruise to the spacious dock of the Antique Boat Museum in Clayton. The museum's waterfront campus covers 4.5 acres of public program space; extensive archival holdings; and most impressive, a collection of more than 320 antique and classic pleasure boats ranging from eight-foot St. Lawrence skiffs to the 106-foot La Duchesse, the fully restored, Gilded-Age houseboat built for hotelier George Boldt. The museum's "Quest For Speed" exhibit chronicles the 80-plus-year history of powerboat racing, a sport defined by high horsepower and near-suicidal speeds. I'd no idea that race boats built around here were approaching speeds of a hundred miles an hour in 1929. At the main exhibit hall, I meet Robyn Lewis, membership coordinator. She shows me the Suwanee, a 1909, custom-built racing launch more than 31 feet long and only four feet wide, crafted in swooping lines with a white cedar hull and mahogany decks and ribbed with red elm. It reminds me of a war canoe, with motor.

"Man, I'd like to have known the daredevil who bombed around in this thing," I say. "Let's call him," Lewis says. Tall, slim Bob Cox, 92, bought Suwanee from its original owner in 1955 and donated it to the museum in 1996. At the moment, he's working the throttle of the Split, his current 28-foot race boat (another classic), as we power away from the museum's dock for a sunny afternoon tour of the islands. "I used to race this thing from Fort Lauderdale to Nassau in the Bahamas," Cox shouts over the roar of the engine. "But my doctors put a stop to that silliness." I ask Cox to take me to Zavikon Island, actually a pair of tiny islands connected by a footbridge touted by tour guides as the shortest international bridge in the world. "That's a big fat lie they've been telling tourists since the 1880s," Cox says, pulling out his laminated charts to show me that both islands are clearly in Canadian waters. I glance at the map then look up at the gigantic lake freighter that's at twelve o'clock and closing.

The pilothouse on this monster looks to be about 15 stories above the water when Cox nudges the wheel a few degrees to starboard, and the freighter glides past for what seems like a full minute. Cox drops me back on the dock of the Antique Boat Museum and points Split toward open water. I watch as his rooster tail disappears into the sunset. Back in the rental car, I head west along the scenic Great Lakes Seaway Trail, which parallels the shoreline, to Cape Vincent, where the St. Lawrence River meets the open waters of Lake Ontario. The historical district in this picturesque village has some outstanding examples of colonial architecture, including my ideal of the dream home. The front yards alone take my breath away. From Cape Vincent I take Horne's ferry into Canadian waters to Wolfe Island, which, at 48 square miles, is the largest of the Thousand Islands. The border checkpoint resembles a whitewashed bait shack with the Canadian flag snapping proudly in the wind. I answer a few perfunctory questions ("Are you carrying any weapons, firearms, ammunition?") and am on my way.

But as I pull out of customs, I miss the turn for the ferry to Kingston and embark on an unintended tour of the island, until I run out of road at the water's edge on the easternmost point of land. That's when I know I'm lost on Wolfe Island (sounds like a Hardy Boys adventure). No matter. I like it here. The 1,400 or so island residents enjoy rolling farmland and meadows, plenty of acreage between homes, the occasional jogger or cyclist, and a blissful air of remoteness. For visitors, there are B&Bs, inns, and nature tours. Besides, I'm not lost. I can see Canada just across the bay. I get directions from a kid on a mountain bike and drive to Marysville, on the north side of the island, where I catch the next ferry to Kingston. Canada's first capital and now part of Ontario's only UNESCO World Heritage site, Kingston was originally a naval port strategically located at the convergence of the St. Lawrence and Lake Ontario. Fort Henry, a 19th-century British fortress, overlooks Kingston's busy downtown waterfront.

I beat a classic Studebaker to the last available parking space and join the cosmopolitan crowd gathering among the flowers and fountains of Confederation Park as a live band sets up on stage. I catch snippets of conversation in a dozen languages, including some guy speaking Brooklynese as he jaywalks across four lanes of traffic: "Hey, can't yooz sees I'm walkin' over he-yeah!" Judging by the number of art galleries and restaurants in the downtown area, the nightlife in Kingston warrants further study. But I've grown accustomed to the smaller river villages, where the focus is on the water. Kingston, population 117,000, is just too, well, sophisticated. I feel like a river rat out of its element here. I surrender my prime parking space, head east toward the 1,000 Islands Scenic Parkway (the Canadian version of the Seaway Trail), and follow the road signs to Gananoque, which proclaim that it's "a destination that's safe, friendly, and good." That's a reasonable characterization of the Thousand Islands in general, though the Canadian side seems slightly more relaxed and less commercial, with less traffic, than its U.S. counterpart.

Saturday night action in "G-Town" (I mispronounced "gan-an-ock-way" so badly the locals offered an abbreviation) is centered around Stonewater Irish Eatery and Pub. I order Guinness and poutine—jumbo French fries buried in white cheese curd, topped with beef gravy, and served molten hot in a casserole dish with a side of vinegar. "Heart attack on a plate," the waitress says. I have to raise my fork several feet above my head to get the cheese to behave, but the dish is delicious. Now I'm ready to go shovel snow or fall on the couch to watch some hockey. I know why the well-heeled of yesteryear picked the Thousand Islands for their exclusive playground: They couldn't find a more ideal place to spend their summer vacation. Fortunately, you no longer have to be rich to have the Thousand Islands experience. The brochures of things to do and sights to see overflowing from my rental car are proof of that. My whirlwind tour of multiple islands, it turns out, was highly unusual.

A fishing guide explained that most folks pick a favorite spot—be it vacation home, summer rental, or campsite—that they return to year after year, and that this can go on for generations. Eventually, I did find mine. I won't say where, but it involves my idea of a dream home overlooking a tranquil stretch of water. So far, I'd managed to avoid buying souvenirs. That changed the following morning when I entered Island Memories Restaurant and found myself surrounded by an acre of tchotchkes. The place had it all, including the perfect souvenir for my geographically challenged neighbor, Gary­—a Thousand Islands—themed cookout gift set: tablecloth, place mats, chef's apron, and matching grill mitt. I can't wait to crash Gary's next BBQ and present him with this thoughtful souvenir from the islands that don't exist. And I hope I have an audience. Contributing editor Patrick J. Kelly and photographer Will van Overbeek also collaborated on “Nashville Cat” in our March issue. Articles about Thousand Islands - latimes Uncertainty Pervades Montserrat as Volcano Threatens : Caribbean: Worried scientists can't predict if, or when, eruption will occur. Thousands flee island.

August 26, 1995 | KENNETH REICH, TIMES STAFF WRITER The limits of science can be seen on tiny Montserrat, where uncertainty about if or when a volcano may explode has led authorities to evacuate two-thirds of the Caribbean island's 12,000 people to its north end or off the isle altogether. Since mid-July, experts from the United States, France and Trinidad and Tobago have been in the 11-by-7-mile colony, a British possession 250 miles southeast of Puerto Rico, monitoring the volcano. Experts are worried that it may blow soon. Advertisement Boating Through the Land of a Thousand Islands January 22, 1989 | MARGE KANTOR and KEN KANTOR, The Kantors are Los Angeles free-lance writers. We were roaring through mangrove swamps aboard a long-tail outboard in "The Land of a Thousand Islands," dodging mammoth limestone formations. Some 1,000 feet high, the islets were covered with moss and trees.

With most of the other six passengers, we sat toward the stern, holding it low as the flower-decorated prow rose five feet out of the water. A silver awning shielded us from the sun as we pulled up plastic to ward off the saltwater spray. NEWS Commerce, Culture Join on St. Lawrence River : Canada: The many moods of la mer are found on a trip from the Thousand Islands to the sea. This turnpike for shipping is also a refuge for wildfowl, whales. December 4, 1994 | THOMAS J. ABERCROMBIE, NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC The icebreaker Pierre Radisson, flagship of the Canadian coast guard's St. Lawrence River fleet, tosses aside chunks of ice the size of cottages. Snow, sky and shoreline blur. Filing along behind us in a wintry convoy are the Federal Kumano, a bulk carrier from Manila, a tramp steamer flying a Panamanian flag, a Hong Kong container ship and a Canadian tanker. The St. Lawrence is a big-shouldered river that can challenge a navigator any time of the year. NEWS Commerce, Culture Join on St.

Lawrence River : Canada: The many moods of la mer are found on a trip from the Thousand Islands to the sea. This turnpike for shipping is also a refuge for wildfowl, whales. December 4, 1994 | THOMAS J. ABERCROMBIE, NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC The icebreaker Pierre Radisson, flagship of the Canadian coast guard's St. Lawrence River fleet, tosses aside chunks of ice the size of cottages. Snow, sky and shoreline blur. Filing along behind us in a wintry convoy are the Federal Kumano, a bulk carrier from Manila, a tramp steamer flying a Panamanian flag, a Hong Kong container ship and a Canadian tanker. The St. Lawrence is a big-shouldered river that can challenge a navigator any time of the year. FOOD Salad : Unfashionable Dressings: Which Thousand Islands? August 25, 1994 | RUSS PARSONS, TIMES FOOD MANAGING EDITOR When was the last time you walked into a fancy foodie restaurant, ordered a salad and were asked which dressing you wanted? A national tradition may be dying.

Outside of burger huts and steak houses, the salad world today is ruled by mesclun mixes and light vinaigrettes. So, before the colors fade, let's pause a moment and contemplate the pantheon of American dressings--Thousand Island, Russian, green goddess--in all of their pink, orange and green glory. FOOD Special Thousand Island Dressing Recipe Could Create a Salad Lover August 22, 1985 | ROSE DOSTI, Times Staff Writer Dear SOS: This is truly an SOS--if I can get the recipe for the Tam O'Shanter Inn Thousand Island Dressing, I can convert to salads. --GLENDA Dear Glenda: You have the blessings of Lawry's Restaurants Inc., which owns the Tam O'Shanter Inn in Los Angeles and sent us the recipe. NEWS Uncertainty Pervades Montserrat as Volcano Threatens : Caribbean: Worried scientists can't predict if, or when, eruption will occur. Thousands flee island.

August 26, 1995 | KENNETH REICH, TIMES STAFF WRITER The limits of science can be seen on tiny Montserrat, where uncertainty about if or when a volcano may explode has led authorities to evacuate two-thirds of the Caribbean island's 12,000 people to its north end or off the isle altogether. Since mid-July, experts from the United States, France and Trinidad and Tobago have been in the 11-by-7-mile colony, a British possession 250 miles southeast of Puerto Rico, monitoring the volcano. Experts are worried that it may blow soon. NATIONAL Case against U.S. man illustrates Canada's zero-tolerance gun policy February 3, 2014 | By David Zucchino Louis DiNatale didn't intend to enter Canada when he and his wife wound up on a bridge from New York state to Ontario province one day in September, misdirected by an unreliable GPS. What began as an American couple's getaway to Vermont quickly turned into a lesson on the stark difference between the U.S. and Canada when it comes to gun laws. DiNatale, whose request to turn around and cross back into the U.S.

was denied, then made another mistake. When a border official asked whether he had any weapons, he said no. Then the questions started about guns. FOOD Salad : Unfashionable Dressings: Which Thousand Islands? August 25, 1994 | RUSS PARSONS, TIMES FOOD MANAGING EDITOR When was the last time you walked into a fancy foodie restaurant, ordered a salad and were asked which dressing you wanted? A national tradition may be dying. Outside of burger huts and steak houses, the salad world today is ruled by mesclun mixes and light vinaigrettes. So, before the colors fade, let's pause a moment and contemplate the pantheon of American dressings--Thousand Island, Russian, green goddess--in all of their pink, orange and green glory. NEWS A Thousand Islands and One Heart November 26, 1989 | CHARLES HILLINGER, TIMES STAFF WRITER Thousand Island salad dressing was named after the Thousand Islands, a group of islands scattered along a 50-mile path of the St. Lawrence River that separates New York State from Ontario, Canada.

There are actually 1,800 islands in the archipelago, a third in the United States, two-thirds in Canada. Of all the Thousand Islands, Heart Island is perhaps the most intriguing. Its legacy is a fascinating but sad love story. TRAVEL Boating Through the Land of a Thousand Islands January 22, 1989 | MARGE KANTOR and KEN KANTOR, The Kantors are Los Angeles free-lance writers. We were roaring through mangrove swamps aboard a long-tail outboard in "The Land of a Thousand Islands," dodging mammoth limestone formations. Some 1,000 feet high, the islets were covered with moss and trees. With most of the other six passengers, we sat toward the stern, holding it low as the flower-decorated prow rose five feet out of the water. A silver awning shielded us from the sun as we pulled up plastic to ward off the saltwater spray.

FOOD Special Thousand Island Dressing Recipe Could Create a Salad Lover August 22, 1985 | ROSE DOSTI, Times Staff Writer Dear SOS: This is truly an SOS--if I can get the recipe for the Tam O'Shanter Inn Thousand Island Dressing, I can convert to salads. --GLENDA Dear Glenda: You have the blessings of Lawry's Restaurants Inc., which owns the Tam O'Shanter Inn in Los Angeles and sent us the recipe. NEWS China Sentences 3 to Death for Tourist Murders June 13, 1994 | From Associated Press Hoping to placate an angry Taiwanese public, a Chinese court handed down death sentences Sunday to three men convicted of robbing and killing 24 Taiwanese tourists and eight mainlanders. The killings had provoked the worst crisis in China-Taiwan relations since the two opened trade and tourism links in 1987. For many Taiwanese, the case dramatized the gap in legal and political systems between their increasingly democratic and open society and the still-secretive Communist-ruled mainland. TRAVEL Viewing Fall Foliage on the St.

Lawrence River August 14, 1988 | SHIRLEY SLATER and HARRY BASCH, Slater and Basch are Los Angeles free-lance writers In a timely turnabout, your window could drift by the autumn leaves in September or October on a river-boat cruise through the Thousand Islands near Kingston in Ontario province. Most of the estimated 1,870 islands in this part of the St. Lawrence River have stands of hardwood trees, so when they put on a fall foliage show you can count on high-voltage displays in scarlet, gold, russet and orange, set off by the jade green of jack and pitch pines. Gananoque's 1000 Islands: More Than a Salad Dressing - Eat Drink Travel Magazine April 10, 2015 Photo: 1000 Islands Tourism As a first-time visitor to the 1000 Islands, I arrived with questions. You might be similarly curious, so let’s get the basics out of the way. The 1000 Islands is actually an archipelago comprising 1,864 islands in the St. Lawrence River.

The region spans both sides of the border between the United States and Canada (and I can only assume that the latter nation is responsible for the modest name). You do need a passport to cross the border even in the water, and yes—there is a customs procedure. This is, indeed, where the salad dressing comes from. Gananoque is one of those small Ontario towns that changes with the seasons. Many of the local businesses rely on the river, hibernating while it’s frozen and coming to life with the thaw. This doesn’t mean there’s nothing to do in the winter— 1000 Islands Helicopter Tours is open year-round for ice fishing and touring, for example—but it’s in the spring and summer that the population swells to five times its off-season size. It’s easy to see why. The 1000 Islands used to be called a “millionaire’s playground,” a vibe you can still get in on, even if it’s only for your vacation. The biggest attraction is the islands themselves, and after you’ve viewed them from the air, you’ll want to get up close.

Gananoque Boat Line has been ferrying guests for more than 40 years, and this summer they’re giving you even more reason to visit. In anticipation of welcoming their 11 millionth passenger, the line is giving away a prize of $11,000 and a private island for a week. Photo: 1000 Islands Tourism Those looking for something a little more hands-on should head over to 1000 Islands Kayaking and book in a day trip or overnight with camping. Photo: 1000 Islands Tourism The Thousand Islands Playhouse hosts a robust summer program. Theatre-goers will have their choice of eight productions during the 2015 season, including the much-anticipated “Bed and Breakfast,” a show about “being out” in small town Ontario written by local playwright Mark Crawford. Photo: 1000 Islands Tourism If you’re looking to dig into the history of the region, check out the Arthur Child Heritage Museum where, starting in May, there will be an exhibit on dated technology (word has it they have gotten their hands on an early flight simulator!).

The permanent exhibition tells the story of the region, and a viewing gallery screens footage from Boldt Castle to the folks who forgot their passport. Photo: 1000 Islands Tourism Gananoque has plenty of quality food and drink, starting with The Socialist Pig . Espresso drinks and a fresh menu built from locally-sourced ingredients are reason enough to visit, but the place also serves as a community meeting place. Make yourself at home (and order the Country Fair Burrito—you’re welcome). For something more upscale, try the house-made pastas at Riva . Panaché Bakery and Café bakes fresh daily, and serves breads, pastries, sandwiches, and soups. This is also the place to get authentic hot cross buns. For a taste of the local brew, hit the Gananoque Brewing Company . There are hundreds of rooms in and around town, with perhaps the most historic in the Gananoque Inn & Spa . This fully renovated establishment occupies what was originally the Gananoque Carriage Works, built in the 1870s on the banks of the St. Lawrence where it stands still. There’s an on-site spa, and two restaurants, each with unobstructed views.

Budget-conscious visitors have their choice of places to stay as well. If you’re looking for gambling excitement at the OLG Slots & Casinos , consider the Holiday Inn Express ; it’s just across the road. Otherwise, the casino runs a shuttle to further-flung locations. Photo: 1000 Islands Tourism Getting there From Toronto, it’s about a two and a half-hour drive along Highway 401 eastbound. You can enter Gananoque starting at exit 645, just after Kingston. Pro-tip: If you’ve got some extra time, drop down to Highway 2 at Port Hope, where the driving is more scenic, and you might catch a roadside attraction. From Ottawa, take Highway 416 south to the 401 and head west. It’s about a 2-hour trip. From Montreal, it’s a straight shot west on the 401 for around 3 hours. If you’re coming from New York State, there’s a border crossing on Highway 81. Take the historic Thousand Islands Bridge to enter Canada. Enjoy this post?

Tweet About Keph Senett Keph Senett is a Canadian writer whose passions for travel and soccer have led her to play the beautiful game on four continents. When not writing about football (soccer), human rights, travel, LGBT and gender issues, and/or her own folly, Keph's on the road. She spends her free time trying to figure out how to qualify for a soccer squad in Asia, Australia or Antarctica. The Thousand Islands: St. Lawrence River continues to cast its spell BY GARY MAY and LINDA MONDOUX So, you think you know what an island is. How about 1,000 islands? The Thousand Islands (not the 1,000 Islands, as they are referred to in some places), are a world-famous archipelago strewn along an 80-kilometre stretch of the St. Lawrence River, starting around Kingston and divided between Ontario and New York state. Despite the name, there are in fact 1,864 islands in the group, but someone wisely decided the Thousand Islands sounded better. The largest is Wolfe Island, at about 100 square kilometres, on the Ontario side, reachable by ferry at Kingston.

One of the smallest is called Just Room Enough, and provides space (or just room enough) for a single cottage, a tree and some shrubs. There are exactly 1,864 islands in the Thousand Islands — most of them privately owned — because that’s how many meet the requirements set back in the day by the Canadian and American authorities. They decided that in order to qualify for island status, a piece of real estate had to remain above the river’s surface all year long, be larger than one square foot (or 930 square centimetres) and be occupied by at least two living trees. No island is split by the international border — islands are either on the Canadian side or the U.S. side. The most famous is Heart Island in Alexandria Bay on the American side. The island is home to Boldt Castle, constructed by George C. Boldt — who at the time owned New York City’s Waldorf Astoria Hotel — as a show of love for his wife, Louise. The 120-room Rhineland-style home was abandoned four years into construction, in 1904, when Louise died suddenly. A broken-hearted Boldt never returned to the island, and the castle fell into disrepair.

The Thousand Islands Bridge Authority acquired the property in 1977, and began the slow and painstaking task of bringing the castle back to its original splendour, a labour of love that has transformed it into a tourist attraction, though the work continues today as funds become available. You can stop by to see the castle on one of the many boat tours of the islands (don’t forget your passport!). You can also visit the Boldt Yacht House, on Wellesley Island, the new home to the 1892-built Kestrel, a 63-foot steam yacht similar to those that were popular on the St. Lawrence River at the turn-of-the-century. Millionaires Row With all the construction of luxury homes in those early years, the Thousand Islands became known as Millionaires Row. Many expensive estates still exist, and tourists aboard the tour boats plying the river throughout spring, summer and fall eagerly crane their necks to catch a glimpse of how the rich and secretive live. But mostly, the Thousand Islands are a quiet place of beauty, where huge ocean-going vessels and lake freighters still sail majestically past the islands on their way up and down the Seaway.

Experienced Seaway pilots manoeuvre the ships through the tricky series of shoals and rocks that make navigating the St. Lawrence a challenging task. The islands are actually a neck of the Canadian Shield, which connects the main shield section in Ontario to a secondary portion that’s represented by the Adirondack Mountains in New York state. There are several interesting facts attached to the islands. For example, the famous Thousand Islands salad dressing is named for them. Former Clayton, New York, resident Sophie LaLonde is credited with concocting the dressing and serving it to guests of her husband, who was a popular fishing guide at the turn of the 20th century. Clayton hotel owner Ella Bertrand and New York stage actress May Irwin got hold of the recipe, and Irwin passed it on to George Boldt to serve in his famous hotel’s dining room. Clayton is one of the main island-area communities on the American side of the border, and is home to another significant area attraction, the Antique Boat Museum. The museum’s galleries boast more than 300 preserved boats and thousands of recreational boating artifacts. You can try your hand at sailing or rowing on Tuesday evenings until Aug.

28: the museum throws its doors open to the public once a week for some free in-the-water time using its own fleet of small craft. Another story linked to the islands is that Deer Island is actually owned by the Yale University-based secret society, the Skull and Bones. The society dates back to 1832 and counts among its members both George Bushes and U.S. Senator John Kerry. While the island is still held by the society as a rustic retreat, recent visitors have been quoted as saying all that’s left is a bunch of stone ruins. Among the Canadian communities along the islands are Kingston, Gananoque, Rockport and Brockville. Inspirational setting The Great Lakes, including the Thousand Islands region, are known worldwide for their many well-preserved shipwreck sites, thanks to cold, fresh water that is capable of keeping many sunken vessels in stunning condition.

Edie Benish, who owns Seeway Vision Dive Charters in Brockville with her husband, Kevin, says the Brockville and Rockport areas are considered “the best freshwater diving in the world” because of the quantity and quality of the wrecks, good visibility up to at least 70 feet, an even temperature from top to bottom and currents that make every dive unique. Tony Dekker, lead singer and songwriter of the indie band Great Lake Swimmers, fell in love with the beauty and spirituality of the Thousand Islands, and the band recorded many of the tracks on the Lost Channels album at Brockville, Rockport and Singer Castle on Dark Island. Lost Channels refers to a passage in the St. Lawrence where a reconnaissance boat from a British warship went missing in 1760. The story of what happened to the ship remains shrouded in mystery to this day. While the ship is not specifically mentioned in the lyrics, they are filled with dramatic images of raging waters, howling winds and dark night skies. You can catch Great Lake Swimmers in concert in Kingston on Sept. 22. For $8.99, you can fly along the St.

Lawrence River and explore the Thousand Islands via your iPad, all while listening to a Great Lake Swimmers soundtrack. Pilot-turned-photographer Ian Coristine, who last year teamed up with the band for a show in Brockville, has been capturing the beauty of the Thousand Islands in all seasons for many years, after a chance flight to the area from Montreal in 1992. He is now the steward of Raleigh Island, whose story is told in the memoir One in a Thousand, a new eBook co-written with Donna Walsh Inglehart, chronicling the journey that Coristine says “fundamentally changed my life.” One in a Thousand, hailed as “the most sophisticated interactive eBook,” describes the challenges of acquiring Raleigh Island, the restoration of an abandoned cottage, and Coristine’s adventures in the air and on the water as he immersed himself in a new, unexpected career. The interactive book, available in the iTunes app store, includes an 85,000-word text set in a stunning layout, videos of his flying adventures, nature sounds from the river, an interactive map and hundreds of his best images embedded in the text, in galleries and in automated slideshows set to unpublished instrumental tracks from Great Lake Swimmers.

'Rare, magical place' According to Coristine, “It has become my life’s work to celebrate and help protect this rare, magical place.” Want to visit in person? Before heading out on a cruise, don’t forget to drop by the mainland St. Lawrence Islands National Park’s visitor centre. Located on the riverfront at Mallorytown Landing on the Thousand Islands Parkway between Brockville and Gananoque, it’s a great spot for a scenic picnic or an easy hike. There’s also a boat launch here, so if you have access to a boat, more than 20 island properties in the St. Lawrence River between Kingston and Brockville are open to the public for swimming, hiking and camping. If your summer is already booked up, there’s still plenty of opportunity to visit the Thousand Islands this year: the St. Lawrence River in early fall is simply stunning! MyNewWaterfrontHome.com — August 2012 Cruise holidays: John Craven visits Thousand Islands, the archipelago that inspired a dressing | Daily Mail Online comments For more than a century, Thousand Island dressing has been drizzled on to salads around the world - but do these islands actually exist?

On a cruise up the St Lawrence River, I discovered the name wasn't dreamt up by some advertising whizzkid. As our boat approached Lake Ontario, where the wide river forms the border between Canada and the United States, the islands began to appear. All 1,793 of them, to be precise. They are scattered across an archipelago stretching 35 miles. Early last century, the super-rich of North America built their opulent summer lodges, even castles, on the larger ones. Salad days: But Boldt Castle on Heart Island was abandoned by its bereaved owner in 1904 As we sailed by, our captain took to the loudspeaker to explain the history of the eponymous dressing.It was the concoction of a local woman, Sophia LaLonde, whose husband George led fishing trips for the well-to-do. One of his clients was Mae Irwin, a leading actress of the day, who apparently enjoyed the salad dressing during Sophia's picnic lunches rather more than the actual fishing. To Mae, the finely chopped ingredients resembled the islands. She invited another summer resident, George C. Boldt, to sample it and he too was bowled over.

Mr Boldt happened to own New York's Waldorf-Astoria Hotel and ordered his famous chef, Oscar Tschirky (inventor of the Waldorf salad), to add this humble creation to the menu. The rest is culinary history. RELATED ARTICLES Share this article Share Mr Boldt so adored his wife Louise that he bought her one of the largest of the Thousand Islands, transformed it at great cost into the shape of a heart and proceeded to build her a castle so big it needed a workforce of 500. On the day she died unexpectedly in 1904, he abandoned the whole project and never returned. The ruins were bought for a dollar in 1977, are slowly being restored and are a tourist attraction. For me the islands, still a top getaway destination with holiday homes ranging from shacks to mansions, were a highlight of a 14-night cruise that started on the St Lawrence in Montreal and ended nearly 1,000 miles later sailing down the Hudson River to New York. Somewhere over the rainbow: John Craven takes in the sea air Our floating home was the Grande Mariner, built in 1998 and a few feet longer than an Olympic swimming pool.

On board is accommodation for up to 96 passengers, a one-sitting dining room, a friendly lounge and large sundeck. Meals were simple and wholesome, cooked on board with none of the flamboyance of some European river boats. Cabins were on the small side, with ample storage space under the wonderfully comfortable beds. Each cabin had its own, limited-capacity hot-water tank. We were advised to switch on and wash down, switch off and soap/shampoo, then switch on again and wash off before the water cooled. And it worked! We joined the Grande Mariner in Montreal, a city that isn't all it seems. Deep winter snow and hot summers led to the creation of another Montreal, underground, where 17 miles of subterranean walkways house 1,200 shops, eating places and entertainment venues that are used by 100,000 people every day, no matter what the weather. After calling at the lovely walled city of Quebec (no recession here, said our guide proudly, and no unemployment) and witnessing the spot where General James Wolfe died during the Battle of the Plains of Abraham, came disappointment.

The captain was forced to cancel the next leg of our voyage, out towards the Gulf of St Lawrence where whales abound, as a storm was blowing. Instead, we turned inland and climbed through the huge locks of the St Lawrence Seaway until we reached the Thousand Islands. Though we didn't visit Mr Boldt's castle on Heart Island, the Grande Mariner tied up at the jetty of nearby Dark Island and we explored a fully completed one - with a sewing machine in every room. The mock-Gothic edifice was built in 1904 by the president of the firm that made them - hence Singer Castle! Grand designs: Mr Boldt built the castle on Heart Island for his adored wife Louise From the islands, our voyage took us across the southern tip of Lake Ontario and down the Oswego Canal to join the mighty Erie Canal, the 363-mile engineering masterpiece that links the Great Lakes to the Hudson and the Atlantic Ocean. The Erie Canal is no longer the important trade route it once was, but as a leisure resource it's hard to beat and it saved its most spectacular feature until the end - the Waterford Flight, a series of five locks dropping a breath-taking 169ft in two miles.

From there we entered the Hudson River and 140 miles downstream New York City awaited. On a glorious morning, we sailed the length of Manhattan island, round the Statue of Liberty, past ground zero where the new One World Trade Centre is halfway to becoming America's tallest skyscraper, and tied up next to the QE2's old pier. It was a hugely impressive way to end a voyage during which we had enjoyed the good company of like-minded people, both British and American - but never once during all our meals together did we have Thousand Island dressing! Getting there Noble Caledonia's Autumn Colours In North America voyage aboard MS Caledonian Sky cruises from Halifax to Yorktown from September 25 to October 9, 2012, starting from £4,495 per person, including return flights from London, full-board accommodation on MS Caledonian Sky, all excursions and guest speaker. It will be running its Autumn Colours On The Hudson cruises from Montreal to New York, including the Erie Canal, in 2013. Call 020 7752 0000 or visit noble-caledonia.co.uk .

1000+ images about 1000 Islands on Pinterest | Thousand islands, Islands and The 1000 Forward BEST U.S. BOAT RIDE: Thousand Islands -- New York's Thousand Islands region seems made with nautical tourism in mind. Glass-topped catamarans, triple-decker cruise boats and majestic paddlewheelers ply the waters, taking visitors past Boldt Castle and the mansions of Millionaire Row, Kingston Penitentiary and Fort Henry, all while offering interesting insight into the history of this scenic destination. See More Homemade Russian Dressing Recipe with Sriracha Sauce Elli Miller Updated January 04, 2017. It's possible that my culinary awakening came at around the age of 6 or 7 when I discovered that combining ketchup and mayonnaise produced something very similar to Thousand Island dressing. To a six-year-old, this was the equivalent of discovering gravitational waves. It also opened my young eyes to the possibility that McDonald's "special sauce" might not be quite so "special" after all.

(Although it turns out that the key ingredient there might be French dressing rather than ketchup.) It also meant that I entered a heightened state of awareness when it came to pink condiments. So when my grandparents took me to Canters Delicatessen , I couldn't help noticing that the Russian dressing that accompanied the Reuben sandwich (among others) bore a striking resemblance to my ketchup-mayo concoction. There are differences. Thousand Island dressing (named after a large group of islands on the St. Lawrence river between the U.S. and Canada) is a bit milder than Russian dressing, as the latter is typically made with horseradish, giving it more pungency. They're similar, though, and on any given day the two can be indistinguishable. (Some recipes for Thousand Island dressing feature chopped hard-cooked egg .) Though it was originally intended as a salad dressing, the best application of Russian dressing turns out to be on sandwiches and burgers. There's something about this tangy, piquant condiment that cuts through the heaviness of corned beef or a cheeseburger (or even french fries). At one time, Russian dressing was commonplace.

Today it can be difficult to find Russian dressing at the store, especially in an era in which Ranch dressing leaves such a massive footprint across the world of condiments, not only for salads, but as a dipping sauce and even a topping for pizza. (Thousand Island and French dressings have become similarly endangered species.) Which is why it's fortunate that making your own Russian dressing is something that basically any six-year-old can do. You'll see that this recipe features Sriracha sauce (sometimes called "rooster sauce" because of the large bird on the label of the bottle), which is obviously not traditional. And I could certainly indicate that it's "optional," as so many recipe writers (myself included) do. But having made it with Sriracha, and having tasted the unique, smoky kick it imparts, I wouldn't think of making it any other way. Yield: 4 servings (2 oz each) Preparation In a glass bowl, combine the mayonnaise along with half the horseradish and all of the remaining ingredients. Taste, and add additional horseradish as you deem necessary. Stir well. Cover with plastic and chill for 30 minutes before serving.

Related Articles 1000+ images about 1000 Islands on Pinterest | Thousand islands, Canada and Islands Thousand Islands...on the St Laurence River in upstate NY See More Canada's Thousand Islands: A place, not just a salad dressing | Stuff.co.nz Canada's Thousand Islands: A place, not just a salad dressing KERRY VAN DER JAGT Last updated 14:46, July 2 2016 GEORGE FISCHER Boldt Castle on Heart Island is just one of 1846 islands making up the Thousand Islands. In a game of word association mention thousand islands and most people will say "salad dressing", very few will know the Thousand Islands are in fact a group of islands in the St Lawrence River between Canada and the US . Similar to Timbuktu, the Thousand Islands sounds like a mythical or made-up place. However, from a chopper height of a few hundred metres, the sweep of furry green islands awash in a ribbon of blue are very much real. "There's Boldt Castle on Heart Island," says pilot Rupert Owen, pointing to a tuft of green crowned with a kingdom of towers and turrets.

"It's where the salad dressing began." GEORGE FISCHER An aerial view of the many islands that litter the St Lawrence River between the US and Canada. According to legend the dressing was created when millionaire George Boldt, proprietor of the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel, asked his steward Oscar Tschirky to prepare a special dish in honour of the islands. The steward, who went on to become the famous maitre-d'hotel of the Waldorf and creator of the Waldorf salad and Oscar chicken, concocted a recipe that is still considered a secret today. READ MORE: * More of Canada for less While the dressing was a success, Boldt's personal life became a Taj Mahal tragedy; his beloved wife Louise passed away in 1904 before the castle was ever finished. "Boldt was inconsolable," says Owen. "Construction stopped and the property remained vacant for over 70 years." As pretty as Heart Island is, with its romantic shape and storybook castle, it is just one of 1846 islands making up the Thousand Islands.

We've arrived in the Thousand Islands from the Canadian capital of Ottawa via the Rideau Heritage Route, seeking back roads and byways rather than big cities with their endless list of must-see attractions. To be honest I'm after the joy of slow travel, the surprises, the characters, and, if I'm lucky, a secret salad dressing recipe. The 202-kilometre route winds beside the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Rideau Canal, a system of lakes, rivers and canals connecting Ottawa to Kingston at the head of Lake Ontario. Built in 1832, this engineering masterpiece of 47 locks, each built according to da Vinci's simple "gate" design, was a precaution in case of war with the United States. While we've allowed one day we pass plenty of people taking their time, boating and kayaking along the complete length of the aquatic highway. A big sky opens up over rolling hills as we make our way to Chaffey's Locks, one of the 24 lockstations along the canal still operated by hand.

The lock is quiet when we arrive, but lockmaster Rich Fowlie notices our interest and offers to winch it open, sending a tsunami of water spilling over the gates as he wrestles with the steel cogs. "We usually see 75 boats a day in summer," says Rich, adjusting his navy-blue overalls with pride. "Eighty-nine boats in one day is my record." We arrive in the Thousand Islands in time for a sunset cruise, but it's not until the next morning I gain perspective of the region's vastness and beauty. Taking off from Gananoque (gan-an-ock-way) on the Canadian side of the St Lawrence River our helicopter pilot points out the international boundary, which zigzags between the islands, with New York State on one side and the Canadian province of Ontario on the other.

"After the War of 1812 the Treaty of Ghent divided the islands equally," says Owen, "No individual island was allowed to be split by a border." Ad Feedback Swooping low we pass over a constellation of islands – Dark Island, home to Singer Castle built by the director of the Singer sewing machine company, Hub Island, with its aptly named Just Room Enough house, and Camelot Island, with its rocky cliffs and forest. Most construction took place during the late 19th century when the rich and famous flocked to the region, buying individual islands and building grand mansions as summer retreats. The islands range from about 80 square kilometres to the size of a fishing shack, but to be included in the tally must remain above water year round and support at least one living tree. Thundering across the clear water stippled with shipwrecks and sunken villages, Owen regales us with stories about bootleggers and pirates, secret societies and hidden passageways. "Lots of shenanigans in those days," he says. Back in Gananoque village I'm met by sandy beaches, pleasure boats, Victorian houses and a blizzard of pumpkins.

It's October and the riverside town of 5000 residents is in the middle of a pumpkin festival. From my perch at the Socialist Pig coffeehouse I have a good view of the local park where children are busy carving, rolling and eating pumpkins. I join in the festivities by ordering a pumpkin pie as big as my head. The "Pig", which is housed in an 18th-century spring and axle factory, is part of the community-focused AxleWorks enterprise, a creative conglomerate comprising a coffee shop and wine bar, street-style fashion boutique, design studio and art gallery. With a flair for design (and a love of pigs) the owners, siblings Shannon and Zachary Treanor, have brought big city chic to small-town Canada. The streets around hum with a similar vibe; there's the Gananoque Brewing Company, serving up craft beers alongside live music; the waterfront Thousand Islands Playhouse, where guests tie up their boats in front before seeing a show; and a sculpture park on a former industrial site. I pick up a bottle of the "Legendary Thousand Islands Salad Dressing" at one of the local stores, its heritage-style label showing a steamer ship and Boldt Castle.

When I tell the proprietor I've come from Australia for this very dressing he hands me a second bottle for free. Yes, it's that kind of town. Over the coming days I hike a section of 40 kilometre Thousand Islands Parkway, explore parts of the World Heritage-listed biosphere and kayak among the smaller islands, all the while daydreaming about spending a summer here, buying a boat, writing THAT novel. Talking to locals, including Michelle Caron, who is rumoured to hold the recipe, my understanding of the dressing builds – it was created for Boldt on board the steam yacht The Louise; Boldt's steward added a pickle, with the bumps representing the Thousand Islands; and since it is seasonal the dressing is only made once or twice each year. However, I never learn the recipe. "All good recipes are secret," says Caron. Sitting on the dock on my final evening, the fall-coloured leaves reflected in the still water, I finally get it – the Thousands Islands itself is the real secret. Kerry van der Jagt was a guest of Destination Canada and Ontario Tourism.

Question: Which salad dressing is named after an archipelago in the St Lawrence River?
Answer: THOUSAND ISLAND