Soil's pH affects color of hydrangea | Pittsburgh Post-Gazette Soil's pH affects color of hydrangea June 15, 2013 4:00 AM 'Nikko Blue' hydrangeas show the range of colors from pink through purple. By Sandy Feather Q. I have a 'Nikko Blue' hydrangea that was blue when I bought it, but it has been pink since I planted it near my porch. I know the flower color has something to do with soil nutrients. Can you tell me what to do to get blue flowers? A. Bigleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) have pink flowers in alkaline soil and blue flowers in acidic soil. 'Nikko Blue' is included in this group. Soil pH measures soil acidity/alkalinity on a scale of 0-14, with 7 being neutral. Higher numbers indicate alkaline soil while lower numbers indicate acid soil. Bigleaf hydrangeas are blue if the pH is between 5.0 and 5.5. The flowers turn pink when the pH gets around 6.0.

The flower color is dependent on the concentration of aluminum ions (Al+++) in the soil. Aluminum is more available to the plant when the soil is acidic, less available when the soil is alkaline. In this case, you should use aluminum sulfate to lower the pH of your soil and supply additional aluminum. Have your soil tested to determine the pH so that you know exactly how much aluminum sulfate to use. It is possible to use too much. Soil test kits are available from your local Penn State Cooperative Extension office. In Allegheny County, soil test kits are $12 for the first kit and $9 for additional kits ordered at the same time. They come with complete information for taking representative samples and understanding your soil test results. You can send a check for the cost of the number of kits you want to Penn State Extension, Soil Test Kits, 400 N. Lexington St., Pittsburgh, PA 15208. Make checks payable to Penn State Extension. When you receive the kit, take the sample and fill out the paperwork, then send it to Penn State's Agricultural Analytical Laboratory. The fee covers the cost of the kit and the actual testing.

Your only other cost is the postage to send it to the university. The kit is a self-contained mailer with the lab's address pre-printed on it. Although we tend to have acid soils in Western Pennsylvania, there are situations where the pH can move into the alkaline range. For example, garden beds near cement structures (patios, porches, walls, sidewalks and driveways or the foundation of your house) often have a slightly alkaline pH. This is because lime leaches out of concrete. We use limestone to raise soil pH when the soil is too acid for crops such as vegetables, flowers or turfgrass. If your porch is made of concrete, or there are other concrete structures near the hydrangea, it explains why it is pink now, even if it was blue when you bought it. Q. My weeping cherry tree has a lot of growth that is growing straight up rather than weeping. Can I weigh them down with something to get them to weep? A. Weeping cherries are grafted onto a cherry rootstock. They often revert to the straight growth of the rootstock, which is what is happening to your tree.

The straight growth can outgrow the weeping portion and should be pruned off at its point of origin. Weighing the straight branches down will not train them to weep. Most weeping and contorted trees such as Harry Lauder's walking stick (Corylus avellana 'Contorta'); weeping larch (Larix decidua 'Pendula'); and weeping mulberry (Morus alba 'Pendula') are grafted. Any reversion to straight growth should be pruned out as soon as you notice it. What Can You Add to Your Soil to Get a Deeper Blue of Hydrangea? | Home Guides | SF Gate What Can You Add to Your Soil to Get a Deeper Blue of Hydrangea? What Can You Add to Your Soil to Get a Deeper Blue of Hydrangea? Increasing soil acidity increases the odds of blue hydrangeas. Hydrangeas (Hydrangea spp.) can range from deep blue to pale pink or white, depending on the variety and also the pH and aluminum levels of the soil. Even a blue hydrangea purchased in bloom from a greenhouse may turn pink some time after transplanting.

The name of the hydrangea itself -- "Nikko Blue," for example, still doesn't guarantee a hydrangea of that color. The more acidic the soil, the more blue the hydrangea becomes, as long as it's a variety that is capable of producing a blue tint. Some varieties stay white, so no amount of acidifying or adding aluminum to the soil will make them blue. Coffee Grounds Coffee grounds, like coffee itself, are acidic in nature. Adding dried coffee grounds to the soil around hydrangeas increases the acidity of the soil, which boosts the blue-producing capabilities of the hydrangea and the ability to absorb aluminum from the soil. Monitor the pH level of the soil over time with a pH test kit; a range of 5.2 to 5.5 is best for blue blooms. Coffee grounds added to the surface or spread into the soil from time to time will slightly increase soil acidity. Pine Needles and Pine Bark Natural mulching materials, such as pine needles or pine bark, increase soil acidity around hydrangeas.

Cover the area with collected pine needles, chips and the like -- purely natural clippings are better than chemically treated pine chips or bark because the chemicals will also alter the soil's pH levels and mineral content. Aluminum Sulfate Aluminum is the mineral that affects color of the hydrangea the most -- even an acidic soil without aluminum in it won't turn a hydrangea deep blue. Aluminum sulfate is harsh on plants and roots and is best applied only after the hydrangea has been growing for a couple of years. One tablespoon aluminum sulfate per 1 gallon of water, applied carefully around the plants several times throughout growing season, will increase the aluminum in the soil. Apply once the plants have already been watered, and use care because too much will burn the hydrangea's roots. Compost Compost -- organic matter which breaks down over time -- will also increase the acidity of the soil around your hydrangeas, as well as providing valuable nutrients. Suitable compost materials include grass clippings, dried leaves, and fruit and vegetable peels. If you have a compost pile, bits of cardboard, paper and coffee filters which break down are also viable compost materials.

Broken down compost or any of the compostable materials applied around the hydrangeas will also improve soil quality. Hydrangeas Hydrangeas Posted on 1st Dec 2011 @ 4:46 PM Hydrangeas Having been in and out of fashion in Western culture over the years, Hydrangeas are experiencing a revival once again. With their showy flowers in beautiful colours and large shady leaves, it is no wonder that they are a fashionable plant for the home. Hydrangea Facts With a genus of about 70 to 75 species which are native to southern and eastern Asia most shrubs are 1m to 3m tall although there are some Hydrangeas in parts of the world that are small trees and others that can climb up to 30 metres through trees. Hydrangeas can be deciduous or evergreen, though the mainly cultivated temperate species are all deciduous. There are two flower arrangements in Hydrangeas, the mophead flowers, which are large flower heads resembling pom‐poms or as the name implies, the head of a mop.

In contrast are the lacecap flowers that are flat flower heads with a centre core of subdued fertile flowers surrounded by outer rings of showy sterile flowers. Both are equally gorgeous and look wonderful in the garden as a feature. Hydrangeas through the ages Hydrangeas have been introduced into many places around the world. In Portugal the Azores islands have a fabulous display of Hydrangeas, especially on the island Faial, which is known as the blue island due to the vast number of blue hydrangeas, and the island of Terceira which is called the “Lilac Island” with it’s huge number of delicately shaded lilac hydrangeas. In Japan a herbal tea (ama-cha) is made from the leaves of the Hydrangea Serrata and is called a sweet tea, which contains a substance that develops a sweet taste (phyllodulcin). Ama-cha is mainly used for the Buddha bathing ceremony on April 8th each year, which is the day thought to be Buddha’s birthday in Japan. Ama-cha is poured over a statue of Buddha and then served to people in attendance.

Legend has it that on the day Buddha was born, nine dragons poured Amrita over him and Ama-cha is substituted for Amrita in Japan. Pink hydrangeas represent many different meanings, although generally means, “You are the beat of my heart”. Celebrated Asian florist Tan Jun Yong is quoted as saying “The light delicate blush of the petals, reminds me of a beating heart, while the size could only match the heart of the sender”. Caring for your Hydrangeas Hydrangeas are very easy and rewarding to grow, they have many desirable features for the garden such as, fabulous flower show, toughness and unlike most shrubs can tolerate shade and moist conditions. They also make a wonderful cut flower. Hydrangeas do their best when placed in morning sun and afternoon shade, they can take full sun though you will find that they tend to struggle a bit when exposed to our hot afternoon summer sun. Pruning should be on an annual basis in the winter and back to 2 or 3 buds. This may seem like you are taking most of the shrub back to nothing, though come spring and summer your hydrangea will burst out into a gorgeous compact shrub again full of flowers.

The soil is of significance to hydrangeas because its acidity determines the colour of the flowers. If the soil is acidic with a pH of around 4.5 to 5.0 the flowers will be anything from light blue, electric blue or even peacock blue whereas if your soil is less acidic and more alkaline (which tends to happen in most gardens) then the flowers will be pink. White cultivars remain white regardless of soil pH. Feeding your hydrangea in june/july with Garden Gold (a complete fertilizer) will ensure that you have healthy blooms throughout summer Hydrangeas also don’t like to dry out to much and will let you know when they need a drink by wilting, giving them a good deep drink a couple of times a week if they are planted in the ground will keep them happy and healthy. Hydrangeas look fantastic planted as a border and can be used to add depth and colour or as a focal feature. Pots planted with hydrangeas are also a fabulous way to brighten up verandahs or entrances throughout the late spring and summer. Come in and see the colourful display of hydrangeas on offer now at the nursery. All prices are in AUD.

Copyright 2017 Rodney's Plants Plus. Sitemap Hydrangea Questions and Answers Hydrangea Questions and Answers How can I dry hydrangeas? What types of hydrangeas are available? While there are approximately 23 species of Hydrangea, only five are widely cultivated in the U.S. The most popular species is Hydrangea macrophylla, which is commonly known as bigleaf, French, garden or floristï¿½s hydrangea. This Japanese native is rated as hardy to USDA cold-hardiness zone 6. It produces large inflorescences of white, pink or blue flowers in early summer. As with most other Hydrangea species, the inflorescence is composed of a combination of large, showy and small, inconspicuous flowers. In mophead, or Hortensia, (H. macrophylla var. macrophylla) cultivars, many showy flowers are arranged on the outside of the rounded inflorescence (see image at right). On the interior of the inflorescence, a few small flowers are present; these are the flowers that produce seed. Lacecap cultivars (H.

macrophylla var. normalis) have an inner ring of small, fertile flowers surrounded by an outer ring of large, showy flowers (see image at left). Growing 4 to 6 feet in height and width, both mophead and lacecap hydrangeas can be used as specimen plants, in mixed borders or in mass plantings. The mountain hydrangea (H. macrophylla subsp. serrata) is a subspecies of bigleaf hydrangea that has slightly smaller leaves and flowers (see image at right). It is often listed in nursery catalogs as H. serrata. Cultivars may have either mophead or lacecap type flower arrangements. Delicate in appearance, mountain hydrangea is particularly well suited for placement at the edge of a wooded area. Panicle hydrangea (H. paniculata) is the most cold hardy member of the genus. It can be reliably grown in USDA cold-hardiness zones 4 to 7. Native to Asia, it grows 10 to 15 feet tall. Large creamy-white flowers, which are borne in 6- to 18-inch long panicles, are produced in mid-summer (see image at left).

As flowers mature, they may turn pink (see image below). Plants, particularly those of the cultivar 'Grandiflora' ('Pee Gee'), are sometime pruned into a tree form and grown as a specimen plant. Panicle hydrangea is also suitable for use in a mixed border or as a deciduous hedge. The oakleaf hydrangea (H. quercifolia) is one of two Hydrangea species that is native to the U.S. (see image at left) It is found growing primarily in moist woodlands in the southeastern U.S. Plants generally grow 6 to 8 feet in height, although a few cultivars with smaller and larger plant habit are available. Large (4 to 12 inches in length) panicles of creamy white flowers are produced in early summer (see image at right). As flowers age, they often turn a medium- to deep-rose color (see images at left and right). Oakleaf hydrangea is the only member of the genus to develop significant fall foliage color. Leaves turn a deep mahogany-red (see image at left) and stay on the plant until late fall. Exfoliating bark adds to winter interest.

Oakleaf hydrangea is best suited used in a mixed border or as a mass planting. Smooth hydrangea (H. arborescens) is the other U.S. native. It is found in the eastern U.S. from New York to Florida and west to Iowa and Louisiana. In cultivation, plants usually reach about 5 feet in height, with a similar or greater spread. The species is rated as hardy from USDA Cold Hardiness Zones 4 to 9. Flowering occurs in early to mid-summer. The most common cultivar, 'Annabelle', produces rounded inflorescences that may reach up to a foot in diameter (see image at right). Plants found in the wild typically have a lacecap type inflorescence consisting of a combination of a few large and many small flowers. At the peak of flowering, smooth hydrangea flowers are a pure white. As they age, they develop a pale green color. Smooth hydrangea is extremely striking in mass plantings. While not as well-known as the previous four species, climbing hydrangea (H. anomala subsp. petiolaris) is becoming increasingly popular (see image at left).

Hardy from zones 4 to 7, climbing hydrangea is a true clinging vine. While initially slow growing, the plant can eventually cover tall (up to 80 feet) structures. White, lacecap type inflorescences are produced in early- to mid-summer. Plants can be slow to flower, but patience is rewarded by a spectacular floral display on established plants. The stems of climbing hydrangea leave a residue that is very difficult to remove. An alternative to planting climbing hydrangea on the side of a building is to allow it to climb up a tall tree or to cascade over a horizontal surface like a rock pile. Climbing hydrangea grows well in shade, but can also tolerate a sunny location. The scientific name of this plant is listed by some sources as H. petiolaris. Where can I purchase hydrangeas? Most local garden center and mass merchandisers carry hydrangeas, but may only offer a few cultivars. Several specialty nurseries, many of which offer on-line sales, carry a wider array of hydrangea cultivars.

Gardeners looking for the newest cultivars and widest selection should consider searching the internet for mail order sources of hydrangeas if they are unable to find them locally. Where in the yard should I plant my hydrangea? Hydrangeas grow best in moist, well-drained soil. Most hydrangeas benefit from some shade, especially in hot climates. Bigleaf, oakleaf and smooth hydrangeas will usually perform well on the north side of a house or planted at the edge of a woodland (see image at right). As discussed earlier, growing hydrangeas in deep shade is not necessary and can greatly reduce flowering. The amount of sun that hydrangeas can tolerate depends on species, climate and availability of water. Panicle hydrangea tolerates more sun than do other species. Plants grown in hot climates require more shade than do those grown in the colder limits of adaptation. In southern climates, providing frequent and adequate watering will allow hydrangeas to tolerant more sun than if they were subjected to moisture stress. Why doesnï¿½t my hydrangea bloom? There are three possibilities for lack of flowering among the hydrangea species.

The first two ï¿½ too much shade and improper pruning ï¿½ apply to all hydrangeas, while the other ï¿½ weather-related damage to flower buds ï¿½ applies primarily to the bigleaf hydrangea. While most Hydrangea species benefit from some shade, too much shade can reduce flowering. This is particularly true of panicle hydrangea, which is the one Hydrangea species that grows well in full sun. If you have a hydrangea that used to bloom well but now flowers only sparsely, evaluate whether the growth of nearby trees has reduced the amount of light that reaches the hydrangea. If so, you may want to consider moving the hydrangea to a sunnier location. Improper pruning can also reduce flowering in Hydrangea. Since bigleaf and oakleaf hydrangeas flower on previous yearï¿½s growth, potential flowers buds would be removed if the plants were pruned in fall, winter or spring. Panicle and smooth hydrangea flower on this yearï¿½s growth, so pruning them in early summer would reduce or eliminate flowering for that year.

The most common reason for lack of flowering in the bigleaf hydrangea is unfavorable weather. Most H. macrophylla cultivars flower primarily on previous yearï¿½s growth. Weather conditions that damage aboveground parts of the plant can reduce flowering. Damaging weather conditions include early fall freezes that occur before the plant is completely dormant, extremely low winter temperatures, and late spring freezes that occur after the plant has broken dormancy. In USDA Cold Hardiness zone 6 and warmer, which is the recommended growing area for H. macrophylla, the most common of these unfavorable weather events is late spring freezes that damage tender new growth. This is particularly true in the southeastern U.S., where "see-saw" temperatures are very common in the spring. Bigleaf hydrangea responds quickly to warm temperatures in late winter and early spring by breaking dormancy and producing new leaves. Unfortunately, these spells of warm weather are often followed by periods in which temperatures reach well below freezing. The severity of the damage caused by these freezes depends on how many of the buds had broken dormancy. If a substantial portion of the buds on a stem were actively growing, the whole branch may die.

For some cultivars, the loss of the aboveground part of the plant will completely eliminate flowering the following summer. The plant will produce new buds from the base of the stems, but stems produced from these buds will not flower in these cultivars. Other cultivars, such as 'All Summer Beauty' (see image at right), 'Nikko Blue' (see image at left), and 'Madame Emile Mouillere' (see image below), are a bit more flexible, and will flower from the buds that develop from the base of the stem. However, if another cycle of warm weather followed by freezing temperatures damages shoots developing from these buds, these cultivars may flower only lightly, if at all. Is there anything I can do to make my bigleaf hydrangea flower more reliably? It may be possible to protect plants from weather-related flower bud damage by covering them during late spring freezes with blankets, sheets, etc. There is also evidence that some bigleaf hydrangea cultivars have the ability to flower on current yearï¿½s growth, which means that, even if the plant is killed back to the ground, it should still flower during the subsequent summer.

One such cultivar is 'Endless Summer' (Bailmer©), which was released to the retail market in 2003 (see image at left). Re-flowering, or remontant, ability has also been reported in the cultivars 'Decatur Blue', 'Oak Hill', 'David Ramsey' and 'Penny Mac' (see image at right). These five cultivars, which are similar in appearance, produce blue flowers in acidic soil and pink flowers in neutral soil. While the primary reason for growing bigleaf hydrangea is for the flowers, a few cultivars have ornamental foliage that makes the plant attractive even when not in flower. Cultivars with variegated or gold foliage, such as 'Mariesii Variegata' (see image at left), or 'Lemon Zest' (see image at right), can brighten up a dark spot in the garden. How do I change the color of my hydrangea? Flower color in H. macrophylla is dependent on cultivar and aluminum availability. Aluminum is necessary to produce the blue pigment for which bigleaf hydrangea is noted.

Most garden soils have adequate aluminum, but the aluminum will not be available to the plant if the soil pH is high. For most bigleaf hydrangea cultivars, blue flowers will be produced in acidic soil (pH 5.5 and lower), whereas neutral to alkaline soils (pH 6.5 and higher) will usually produce pink flowers. Between pH 5.5 and pH 6.5, the flowers will be purple (see image at left) or a mixture of blue and pink flowers will be found on the same plant. It isnï¿½t unusual to find inflorescences that are part pink and part blue (see image at right). There are a few cultivars that never produce blue flowers. In low pH soils, flowers of these "non-bluing" cultivars turn a dull reddish-purple. In higher pH soils, the flowers of these cultivars are a vivid deep pink color. Some non-bluing cultivars are 'Alpengluhen' (see image at left), 'Pia' (see image at right), and 'Kardinal' (see image at left).

To change the color of a hydrangea planted in the garden, it is necessary to change the soil pH. To raise the pH, add lime. One way of lowering the pH of the soil is to add aluminum sulfate. Additions of acidic organic matter (peat, pine bark) can also help lower soil pH. Exact amounts of lime or aluminum sulfate necessary to get the desired flower color will vary depending on current soil pH and soil type. How and when should I prune my hydrangeas? Established bigleaf, panicle, oakleaf and smooth hydrangea plants can often benefit from regular pruning. Removing about one-third of the oldest stems each year will result in a fuller, healthier plant. This type of pruning is easiest to do in winter, since the absence of leaves makes it easier to see and reach inside plants. Gardeners may also want to prune to control height or to remove old flower heads. The best time for this type of pruning differs between species. Bigleaf and oakleaf hydrangea, which flower on previous year's growth, should be pruned shortly after flowering is complete. Panicle and smooth hydrangea flower on current year's growth and can be pruned anytime from late summer until early spring.

If pruning these two species in the spring, try to prune before leaves appear. Plants of H. arborescens 'Annabelle' have been known to produce a second flush of flowers if pruned lightly after the first flowering. Stems of bigleaf hydrangea that have been damaged by cold should be pruned as soon as it is determined that they are dead. Watch for new growth at the base of the plant. If your plant has basal shoots that are 6 to 8 inches in length, but the upper parts of the stems are still bare, then the bare stems need to be removed. For bigleaf hydrangea plants that are subject to frequent weather-related dieback, other than removing the dead stems, you probably wonï¿½t ever need to do any other pruning ï¿½ Mother Nature has been doing the work for you. Are hydrangeas bothered by any diseases or insects? While hydrangeas in landscape settings are relatively pest free, under certain growing conditions some diseases and insects can become problems. For the bigleaf hydrangea, the major disease problem is powdery mildew (see image at right). It is most common on plants growing in shade and under high humidity conditions.

Powdery mildew infested leaves are covered with a light gray powdery-looking substance. Purple splotches may also appear. Powdery mildew rarely kills plants, but is unattractive. Powdery mildew may occur on other hydrangea species, but is most severe on bigleaf hydrangea. There are several fungal leaf spot organisms that attack Hydrangea. Leaves develop brown to gray lesions surrounded by purple halos (see image at left). These leaf spots are most common in late summer and early fall, and seem to be more common among plants grown in sunny locations. Again, plants are rarely killed, but severe infestation can be very unattractive. All the cultivated species of Hydrangea are susceptible to one or more of these leaf spots. Oakleaf hydrangeas are susceptible to root rots. The most common is Armillaria root rot. Infested plants will appear wilted, but will not recover when watered and will eventually die. Planting hydrangeas on poorly drained soils will increase incidence of root rots and should be avoided. Smooth hydrangea is susceptible to rust, which will appear on the back side of leaves as small, orange spots (see image at right).

Rubbing the back of the leaves will release an orange dust which contains spores of the fungus. The disease is usually seen near the end of the growing season and rarely kills plants. Japanese beetles will feed on oakleaf hydrangea, but are rarely a problem on the other species. Japanese beetles can be controlled by spraying or dusting with the insecticide Sevin, but the problem is rarely severe enough on hydrangeas to merit the use of an insecticide. Aphids can be a problem on the new growth of all hydrangeas, but can be easily controlled by washing, using an insecticidal soap, or an insecticide spray. The presence of ants crawling on plant leaves is often an indicator of an aphid problem. The ants feed on the sticky honeydew (excrement) left by the aphids. If you see ants on the leaves of your hydrangeas, turn the youngest leaves on the plant over and look for small green insects. As leaves become tougher during the growing season, aphid problems usually diminish. Mites can cause problems on hydrangeas.

Mites are too small to see with the naked eye, but mite infestation can cause distorted growth, mainly seen in new shoots (see image at left). Webbing between leaves will also be noticed with spider mites. Mite problems are usually worse during hot, dry weather. Adequate watering of plants during hot weather is the best preventative against mite problems. Mites are difficult for the homeowner to control using insecticides. Why are the new leaves on my bigleaf hydrangea yellow? Bigleaf hydrangea is susceptible to iron chlorosis. Because, iron becomes less available as pH increases, iron chlorosis is most likely to be found on plants growing on high pH soil. In contrast to nitrogen deficiency, which is expressed as yellowing of old leaves, iron chlorosis is found on new leaves (see image at right). Iron chlorosis can be corrected by the addition to iron to the soil. The best way to do this is to use a chelated iron product. You should be able to find one of these products at a garden center or the garden section of a hardware store or mass merchandiser. Follow package directions carefully. You should begin seeing results in a couple of weeks.

As long as the soil pH remains high, you will probably need to re-apply the chelated iron product yearly or whenever symptoms reappear. Lowering soil pH through application of aluminum sulfate or mulching with acid organic materials like pine bark is a long-term solution for iron chlorosis. How can I dry hydrangeas? As hydrangea flowers age on the plant, they often turn attractive colors. Bigleaf hydrangea flowers may develop muted tones of blue, purple, rose, violet and green. Panicle and oakleaf flowers develop pink and rose colors, while smooth hydrangea flowers turn pale green. One of the best cultivars is 'General Vicomtesse de Vibraye' (see image at left). One of the easiest ways to preserve these flowers is to allow them to almost completely dry on the plant. Do not collect them until the flowers have developed a papery feel. On a dry day with low humidity, cut the stems the length you need for making floral arrangements. Strip off all leaves and then find a dry place indoors where the flowers can finish drying. Some people recommend using a warm, dark location, such as an attic. Others prefer a cool, dry location.

Flowers can be hung upside down while being dried, or can be placed in a vase with or without water. Whichever method you choose, be sure to keep individual inflorescences separated as they dry so that none of the flowers get squashed. The flower heads of some cultivars dry better than others. How to Grow Hydrangeas - The Micro Gardener How to Grow Hydrangeas Share Shares 26K Would you love to know how to grow hydrangeas to make them thrive? These stunning blooms are a favourite choice for many gardeners. With their fabulous flowers and foliage, these versatile, hardy plants are a great addition to any garden. “Flowers are the beautiful hieroglyphics of nature with which she indicates how much she loves us.” – Goethe How to Grow Hydrangeas Hydrangeas flower in spring and summer and can be cut back in winter or grown from cuttings. Hydrangea colour is an indication of the pH value of your soil. Pink flowers indicate it is alkaline (pH of between 8 and 12). Blue flowers mean the soil is more acidic (pH of between 1 and 6 with 7 being neutral).

White hydrangea flowers may change colour as they mature. Don’t worry though – you can adjust the pH and the colour ! Keep reading to learn how. Gardening is the art that uses flowers and plants as paint, and the soil and sky as canvas – working with nature provides the technique. As a little bit of trivia, the name ‘hydrangea’ comes from two Greek words: ‘hydor’ which means water and ‘angeion’ meaning vessel. This is because the seedpods resemble drinking cups! So let’s look at where, when and how to plant out a hydrangea, as well as their ongoing needs. Where to Plant Hydrangeas Location: Although hydrangeas are pretty hardy flowers, they can suffer in full summer sun or windy conditions. These both dry them out quickly. Hydrangeas prefer a partially shaded area or one that receives morning sun only. So, the best location is partially shaded or ‘dappled’ shade. All varieties should bloom and grow well in a morning sun/afternoon shade location but not in heavy shade. Try the southern side of your garden (southern hemisphere) or the northern side (northern hemisphere).

Avoid heavy shade under a tree with a large canopy – choose a partially shaded area with dappled light. Avoid planting under a tree. Tree roots will compete for the rich moist soil around your hydrangea. There may also be insufficient light if the tree canopy is large. Space: If you only have limited space, you might consider growing them in pots or containers . Choose your pot wisely for the mature size of the plant and consider the plant’s needs. Hydrangeas need consistent moisture so avoid porous pots. Hydrangeas can be grown in pots with the right soil and care. Depending on the cultivar, most hydrangeas need at least 1m2 of personal space to feel comfy and do their best. Make sure you check the label first to determine the mature size of the plant. Drainage: You will also need to consider your hydrangea’s drainage requirements . Whilst hydrangeas like moist, compost-rich and well-drained soil, they hate ‘wet feet’! Raised beds are a good option if these are available or even a mounded position.

When to Plant Hydrangeas If your potted hydrangea has been grown and raised in a garden nursery, it will be used to being outdoors all year so you can plant anytime. However, if you decide to plant during a hot summer, it would be wise to time your planting for early morning or late afternoon during the coolest part of the day. This will avoid heat stress. Also, bear in mind that during the hotter months of the year, your hydrangea will need to be kept well watered to establish in its new location. Hydrangea blooms make beautiful cut flowers. How to Grow Hydrangeas – Likes & Dislikes Just like you have your preferences for the home you live in, so do your plants! Hydrangeas are no exception. Knowing what they prefer will help you make a wise choice. Give them what they want and your hydrangeas will not just survive, but thrive! Likes: Good drainage; dappled shade; sufficient water; moist rich composted soil; mulch and a regular feed. Dislikes: Hot sun and a windy location; heavy clay soils; too much shade; competing for nutrients and drying out. Affiliate Links: Your support of this site is appreciated!

How to Prepare your Soil and Plant Hydrangeas STEP 1. Pre-soak your potted hydrangea Anytime I transplant a plant or seedling from a pot to its new home, I give it a little TLC (tender loving care)! I find I never have any stressed plants as a result. Plants seem to settle into their new position more quickly. Many people just pop a plant straight into a hole and cover it back up with the soil they just dug out. Then wonder why their plant doesn’t look healthy! It’s especially important to put extra attention into your soil for container grown hydrangeas. These ‘babies’ are totally dependent on you, their gardener ‘parent’! From experience, I believe you will get better results with a little extra effort and it takes only a minute anyway. If you’ve invested in your beautiful hydrangea, why not give it the best chance right? First, to a bucket of water, add some liquid seaweed fertiliser . Check the directions on the brand you are using and make up a ‘strong’ solution. Why give your hydrangea a seaweed ‘bath’ prior to planting in its permanent home?

Seaweed products are made from kelp, which is full of trace elements that build soil and plant health. Seaweed also prevents transplant shock. Plant stress is a common problem when ‘moving house’ from a pot to a new location. I think of seaweed or kelp as ‘Nature’s Rescue Remedy’ and a pick-me-up tonic for plants. It provides a rich source of nutrients needed for healthy plants and helps build resistance to pest and disease. All good reasons to invest in it! Slowly lower the pot into the bucket. Allow the plant to soak until all air bubbles have stopped coming to the surface. This may take a few minutes or longer. While your pot is soaking, prepare the hole or new larger pot. STEP 2. Preparing your soil or pot Dig a hole that is twice as wide as the hydrangea’s root bulb on all sides. So if you have a 200mm pot, dig a 600mm hole, so the plant has 200mm extra space all the way around for the roots to grow into. Only dig the hole as deep as the pot itself.

Make sure the hole is only as deep as the pot but leaves space around for the roots to grow Likewise, if you are transplanting your hydrangea into a larger pot, leave sufficient room for the roots to grow. You can always move it to a larger pot again later as it grows. STEP 3. Supercharge your Soil Hydrangeas love compost. Why? It is full of nutrients, helps retain moisture and builds the organic matter in your soil. This in turn, attracts worms who aerate the soil with their tunnels. These helpful earthworm ‘bulldozers’ leave you a trail of rich humus for free. Their worm castings build soil health and an instantly available food source for your hydrangea’s plant roots. Worms are wonderful garden helpers ! If you have your own homemade compost, then use that as a preference. If not, then choose a certified organic compost as this is probably the next best available alternative. Additional soil improvers such as rock dust minerals , Epsom Salts (magnesium sulphate ), mulch , worm castings , chopped banana peel or slow release plant food can all add valuable minerals and nutrients to the soil. These will boost your hydrangea’s growth.

You can add any of these to the hole before planting and adding the compost or potting mix. “A healthy garden is a reflection of a healthy soul.” If you live in an area that doesn’t get much rainfall or you have water restrictions, your soil may need a little helping hand to retain moisture. I recommend adding some coir peat or coconut husk fibre . Coir peat comes in compressed blocks you can rehydrate and significantly improves moisture holding capacity. Available online or at garden centres, hardware and produce stores and even some garden sections in department stores. It is sold as a solid dry ‘brick’ that you can soak in water and will fluff up. You can add to your soil, potting mix or mix with compost. Coir peat (coconut fibre) is a sustainable by-product of the coconut industry. The husk fibre is recycled and is an economical way of adding organic matter to your garden. Affiliate Links: Your support of this site is appreciated! Coir peat retains up to 70% of its own weight in moisture. This is a cheap addition to any garden or pot. Simply follow the directions for the amount of water to add.

Tip: Always use warm water to speed up hydration or you’ll be waiting until the next day for it to absorb it all! Try adding some liquid seaweed and about a tablespoon of Epsom salts to the water at the same time. These will be absorbed into the coir peat and act as a slow release fertiliser. Epsom salts contain a water soluble form of magnesium sulphate which assists with root development. STEP 4. Planting your Hydrangea Remove the pot from the soaking bucket. Tap gently on all sides to loosen the roots. Or run a knife around the edge if it appears to have been in the pot a long time. If there are roots growing out the bottom, it may be a bit pot-bound. Just snip these off. Place your hydrangea in the middle of the hole and back fill firmly with the compost. Adding compost and nutrients to your potting mix or soil will boost plant health and minimise problems. STEP 5. Feed your Soil for Beautiful Blooms Add a slow release organic fertiliser to the soil or potting mix . This will slowly feed your hydrangea with a balanced diet of nutrients it needs for healthy growth.

If the fertiliser you select doesn’t include rock minerals or soft rock phosphate, try adding some. Natural (non-chemical) mineral fertilisers are a blend of crushed volcanic rocks which give vitality to soils and build correct soil structure. Rock minerals should be applied to every garden to restore mineral balance and improve plant health. It is a bit like humans taking mineral supplements because we always have minerals missing in our diet. Your hydrangeas will thrive in healthy soil STEP 6. Add Mulch Hydrangeas have a fibrous root system that is close to the soil surface. So it is important to mulch well . I prefer to use a ‘feeding’ mulch which breaks down to add more organic matter to the soil. Mulches such as sugarcane, hay, lucerne, pea straw, grassy mulch hay, even grass clippings (no seed heads) will all add valuable nutrients to the soil. Mulch also protects your hydrangea from losing too much moisture from the soil. You can always apply a decorative mulch on top of this if you wish. How to Water, Fertilise and Care for Hydrangeas To establish your hydrangea and encourage new root growth, water in well.

On hot summer days, water in the morning so the plant won’t wilt during the heat of the day. How to Grow Hydrangeas Tip: When in flower, water deeply twice a week. Water deeply every 3 days rather than a shallow water daily. Or water when it is noticeably dry. This encourages deep root development. You can water add Epsom salts (1 tablespoon to a 9L watering can) monthly. As a rule of thumb, it is better to underwater rather than over water ! Hydrangeas will ‘tell’ you they need a drink by wilting a little. In winter, cut off all the flower heads that have finished blooming, six joints from the flower head. This will help them bloom beautifully the next year. Hydrangeas can be pruned into a compact shape and look great in containers with texture like wicker baskets. Affiliate Links: Your support of this site is appreciated! Learn more about How to Grow Hydrangeas How to Prune Hydrangeas Watch this practical video on How to Trim Hydrangeas for some great tips on pruning your hydrangeas.

How to Change the Colour of Hydrangeas Watch this video on what to add to your soil to Change the Colour of your Hydrangeas from pink to blue or vice versa! How to Make Your Cut Hydrangea Flowers Last Longer Want to make your woody stemmed hydrangeas last a week longer in your vase? Find out how to treat the stem so you can enjoy your favourite cut flower longer. Hope you’ve enjoyed my tips about how to grow hydrangeas. Connect with Nurseries Online (Australia) , Royal New Zealand Institute of Horticulture , The American Hydrangea Society and The Lakeland Horticultural Society UK for more information, galleries, links and varieties in your region. There are also some useful global links on Queensland Gardening Pages . For more ideas on growing flowers and fragrance in small spaces, check out Micro Gardening and Inspirational Small Garden Ideas for lots of pictures too. Do you have hydrangeas growing in your garden or have a tip to share? If you like this post, please share it! Some of the links in this post are “affiliate links.” This means if you click on the link and make a purchase, I will receive a small commission.

I only recommend products or services I use personally or believe will add value to my readers. Please read my Disclosure Statement for more details. Please share! Join my free Newsletter for more exclusive insights, tips and all future articles. © Copyright Anne Gibson, The Micro Gardener 2016. . All rights reserved. Change Color Of Hydrangea Bush: How To Make Hydrangea Change Color Image by Evgeny Sergeev By Heather Rhoades While the grass is always greener on the other side, it seems the hydrangea color in the yard next door is always the color you want but do not have. Not to worry! It is possible to change the color of hydrangea flowers. If you have been wondering, how do I change the color of a hydrangea, keep reading to find out. Why Hydrangea Color Changes After you have decided that you want to make your hydrangea change color, it is important to understand why hydrangea color can change. The color of a hydrangea flower depends on the chemical makeup of the soil it is planted in. If the soil is high in aluminum and has a low pH, the hydrangea flower will be blue.

If the soil has either a high pH or is low on aluminum, the hydrangea flower color will be pink. In order to make a hydrangea change color, you have to change the chemical composition of the soil it grows in. How to Make Hydrangea Change Color to Blue More often than not, people are looking for information on how to change color of hydrangea flowers from pink to blue. If your hydrangea flowers are pink and you want them to be blue, you have one of two issues to fix. Either your soil is lacking in aluminum or your soil’s pH is too high and the plant can’t take up the aluminum that is in the soil. Before starting a blue hydrangea color soil treatment, have your soil around the hydrangea tested . The results of this test will determine what your next steps will be. If the pH is above 6.0, then the soil has a pH that is too high and you need to raise it (also known as making it more acidic). Lower the pH around the hydrangea bush by either spraying the ground with a weak vinegar solution or using a high acid fertilizer, like those made for azaleas and rhododendron .

Remember that you need to adjust the soil where all the roots are. This will be about 1 to 2 feet beyond the edge of the plant all the way into the base of the plant. If the test comes back that there is not enough aluminum, then you need to do a hydrangea color soil treatment that consists of adding aluminum to the soil. You can add aluminum sulfate to the soil but do so in small amounts through the season, as this can burn the roots. How to Change Color of Hydrangea to Pink If you would like to change your hydrangea from blue to pink, you have a more difficult task ahead of you but it is not impossible. The reason that turning a hydrangea pink is more difficult is there is no way to take the aluminum out of the soil. The only thing you can do is try to raise the pH of the soil to a level where the hydrangea bush can no longer take in the aluminum. You can raise the pH of the soil by adding lime or a high phosphorus fertilizer to the soil over the area where the hydrangea plant’s roots are. Remember that this will be at least 1 to 2 feet outside the edges of the plant all the way into the base.

This treatment may need to be done repeated to get the hydrangea flowers to turn pink and once they do turn pink, you will need to continue doing this hydrangea color soil treatment every year for as long as you want pink hydrangea flowers. Hydrangea Care Guide - Willowbrook Nurseries Hydrangea Care Guide Planting Your Hydrangea:. ♦ Planting your hydrangeas in early spring or in the fall is ideal. ♦ If you plant them in the summer, they need a lot more water in the beginning to establish the root system. ♦ When you are planting a hydrangea, remember that the blooms and stems must be protected from strong winds and the hot afternoon sun. Avoid planting in open areas where strong winds could break stems with flowers on them. Avoid Trees – Don’t plant hydrangeas directly under trees. They don’t like competing for moisture and nutrients. Aggressive tree roots will crowd them. ♦ Choose a good garden soil, moist and high in organic matter, to give your hydrangea a strong start. Make sure your plant has good drainage. If the soil is too wet, the roots might rot, and the plant will die.

♦ The location should be sunny or partly shaded (planting on the eastern side of a building ensures that, in the afternoon, when the sun is at its hottest, your plants are in the shade). ♦ If the pH of your soil is too high (alkaline), it can be reduced (made more acidic) by the addition of one tablespoon or more of Aluminum Sulfate per plant – this will make your flowers a deeper blue. Coffee grounds and tea bags can be used as a mulch around hydrangeas. It changes the pH of the soil and makes the pink ones turn to blue. To know more about changing hydrangeas colour, check the boxes below! H. macrophylla (Mophead) Maintenance (General Hydrangea Care): ♦ An annual mulch of compost is beneficial. In very cold or exposed locations, mound with soil and mulch the base of the plant with pine needles or leaves. ♦ Water deeply once a week, and maybe more, if the weather is particularly hot or dry. ♦ Most varieties do well in full sun to part shade, as long as they are planted in moist, rich soil. ♦ Hydrangea fertilization needs vary greatly, depending on your intended bloom color.

Certain elements of the fertilizer affect the soil pH, which is a major determinant of bloom color in the pink/blue hydrangea varieties. ♦ Most species require little pruning except the removal of dead flower heads after blooming or in early spring. ♦ For Hydrangea arborescens (‘Annabelle’), prune the previous year’s flowering wood to the ground in early spring. For Hydrangea macrophylla (mopeheads and lacecaps) and Hydrangea serrata (Oakleaf Hydrangea), thin out 2 or 3 year old flowering shoots at ground level to promote vigorous new growth. Hydrangea petiolaris (Climbing Hydrangea) should be pruned only for aesthetics. For more information about ‘pruning’, check the box below. Pruning Hydrangeas can live for many years without ever needing to be pruned, but if your shrubs grow out of bounds or lose flowering vigor, then there are some essential pruning guidelines you must follow to ensure bountiful blooms the next year! Check out our varieties! Fall care Want more blooms for the summer time?

Here are few tips : ♦ Stop fertilizing in late summer to acclimate the plant for the winter. Fertilizing encourages additional growth instead of allowing the plant to naturally go dormant. ♦ Do NOT prune your hydrangeas. If you prune in the fall, it leaves the stems exposed to harsh temperatures, which can cause the stem to die all the way back to the ground rather than over-wintering. ♦ Keep soil moist until ground is frozen. ♦ Protect the crown and basal buds with 4-6″ of mulch or leaves. ♦ Protect from wind – using burlap, snow fence or plant in a protected area. ♦ In the spring, uncover and prune back dead wood. Once growth begins, fertilize, sit back and enjoy! ♦ Bring containers inside after the first frost (if you have hydrangeas planted in containers). ♦ Cut fall-colour hydrangeas for arrangements.

Fall is a great time to create dried arrangements, you can use the flowers (who are starting to fade in colours like red, orange and yellow, even green for some varieties) for wreaths or combining them with other dried plants (wheat, grasses, thistles, eucalyptus, pine or other evergreens, cones, willow or dogwood branches even oak or maple leaves, etc.). Enjoy creating! Below there are some arrangements with hydrangea flowers from our nursery. The varieties used are: Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Pistachio Next Generation’, Hydrangea macrophylla ‘Masja’, Pennisetum ‘Moudry’, Miscanthus sinensis ‘Malepartus’ , Viburnum berries and Rose hips. Other ideas for creating: IMG_1951 How to Change Hydrangea Color Hydrangeas may produce pink, blue, or lavender blooms, depending on where it’s planted and how it’s fed. Alkaline soils, pH of 6.0 or more, are more likely to produce pink blooms. Acidic soils, pH 4.5 to 5.5, produce blue flowers.

♦ Pink hydrangeas can be turned blue by applying aluminum sulfate to the soil, to lower the pH. ♦ Blue hydrangeas turn pink by applying lime to the soil, to raise the pH. If your soil naturally produces very blue or very pink hydrangea flowers, you may need to grow your hydrangeas in containers or raised beds to achieve the desired color. If you do attempt to change the color of your blooms by adding these minerals, dilute them well, and add sparingly. It is very easy to scorch your plants by adding too much. White hydrangeas are not affected by efforts to change bloom color. Impact of Coffee Grounds & Tea bags Coffee grounds turn soil more acidic, helping hydrangea blossoms turn blue rather than the typical pink or white. The acidity of the grounds provides the key element, though aluminum sulfate or eggshells also produce the same effect. All hydrangea blooms respond to increased acidity in the soil, though the soil must still be fertile and drain well. Amend the soil with coffee grounds to increase the acidity by digging it into the soil or dump your coffee grounds into your compost bin and add the compost as part of your twice-yearly fertilizing ritual for your hydrangeas.

Used tea bags applied to the soil around the plant, makes pink blooms change to blue! Growing Blue Hydrangeas, hydrangea colors, hydrangea pruning | Gardener's Supply Growing Blue Hydrangeas By Kathy LaLiberte As a founding employee of Gardener's Supply, I wore many different hats over the years. Currently, I have my own company called Johnnie Brook Creative . The gardens around my home in Richmond, VT, include a large vegetable garden, seasonal greenhouse, cutting garden, perennial gardens, rock garden, shade garden, berry plantings, lots of container plants and a meadow garden. There's no place I'd rather be than in the garden. Hydrangeas in blue and pink: Endless Summer, left, and Twist-n-Shout. Photo: David Grist Soil Acidifier enhances the blue color in hydrangeas. You may have heard that you can change the color of a hydrangea's flowers by adjusting soil pH. But there's a little more to it than that. First of all, not all hydrangeas produce blue flowers.

Hydrangeas with white or cream flowers, such as Annabelle hydrangeas, oakleaf hydrangeas and members of the PeeGee family, can only produce white or cream flowers. Sometimes their blooms take on a pink tinge at the end of the season, but that's about as colorful as they get. Hydrangeas with bloom colors that range from pink through blue and purple usually belong to the hydrangea cultivars known as mopheads and lacecaps. These types of hydrangeas have the interesting ability to change the color of their blooms based on the chemistry of the soil. When grown in alkaline soil, the bloom colors are pinker. When grown in acidic soil, the bloom colors are bluer. Because it's the soil chemistry that determines the bloom color, the variety names given to these types of hydrangeas means very little when it comes to bloom color. For instance, Nikko Blue, Pretty in Pink, Forever Pink and Blue Deckle, all have an almost equal chance of blooming pink or blue, depending on the soil they are planted in.

So remember that even if you purchase a hydrangea in bloom, you cannot be sure the plant will produce the same color flowers once it's growing in your garden. To manipulate the color of a hydrangea's blooms, you need to manipulate your soil's pH level and mineral content. This is not something you do just once. In order to maintain growing conditions that result in a specific bloom color, you may need to apply special soil amendments several times during the growing season (see Adjusting the pH of Your Soil, below, ). Blushing Bride produces blooms throughout the season on both new and old stems. The pure white flowers measure up to 8" across and blush pink or deep blue as they mature, depending on your soil pH. To really experiment with the color of a hydrangea's blooms, consider growing the plant in a large pot. Because you will be working with a much smaller amount of soil, it will be much easier to maintain the desired soil chemistry. Start by testing the pH of your soil. This will give you an idea how much of an uphill battle you'll be waging. Be mindful that the health of the plant should be your first priority.

It's quite difficult to make a dramatic change in soil pH, and doing so can adversely affect the overall health of the plant. To encourage blue hydrangea flowers, grow the plant in soil that has a pH of 5.2-5.5. If your soil is more alkaline, you can lower the pH by applying Soil Acidifier at the rate specified on the package. Soil pH can also be lowered (more gradually) by applying an acidic organic mulch, such as pine needles or pine bark. If the pH of your soil is naturally quite high (alkaline) it will be very difficult to get blue flowers — even if there's plenty of aluminum in the soil. Alkaline soil tends to "lock up" the aluminum, making it unavailable to the plant. (However, you can grow fabulous pink hydrangeas!) If you prefer pink blooms, your hydrangea should be deprived of aluminum by growing it in an alkaline soil with a pH of 6.0-6.2. You can apply a high-phosphorus fertilizer to further discourage the uptake of aluminum. To raise the pH of a naturally acidic soil, apply Garden Lime at the rate specified on the package.

Adjusting the pH of Your Soil Blue Billow, a lacecap-style hydrangea. Photo: David Grist Start by testing the pH level of the soil where you intend to plant your hydrangea. You can use a pH test kit , pH meter, or submit a soil sample to your local extension service. If you are trying to maintain a certain pH level, you should test your soil each year. The effect of adding materials to raise or lower the pH may not be immediately apparent. You should also expect that over time, the pH will revert to its original level, which is dictated by the native soil conditions. To Raise Soil pH The most common way to raise the pH of your soil (make it more alkaline and less acidic) is to add powdered Garden Lime . Dolomitic limestone will also add magnesium to the soil. Apply it in the fall as it takes several months for the effects to be noticeable. Wood ash will also raise soil pH. It works more quickly than limestone and adds potassium and trace elements to the soil. But use caution when applying wood ash. It is very concentrated, and applying too much of it can drastically alter the pH and cause nutrient imbalances.

Wood ash can also "burn" foliage, so for best results, apply it directly to the soil in the winter. Apply no more than 2 pounds per 100 square feet, every two to three years, and test your soil each year to monitor the effects. To raise the pH of your soil by about one point: In sandy soil: add 3 to 4 pounds of ground limestone per 100 square feet. In loam (good garden soil): add 7 to 8 pounds per 100 square feet. In heavy clay: add 8 to 10 pounds per 100 square feet. To Lower Soil pH Soil can be made more acidic by adding Soil Acidifier , ammonium sulfate or aluminum sulfate. Follow application rates on the packaging. You can also lower pH levels by incorporating naturally acidic organic materials such as conifer needles, sawdust, peat moss and oak leaves. Coffee grounds are also slightly acidic. Remember to retest your soil to monitor effects over time. To lower soil pH by about one point using elemental sulfur: In sandy soil: add 1 pound ground sulfur per 100 square feet.

In loam (good garden soil): add 1.5 to 2 pounds per 100 square feet. In heavy clay: add 2 pounds per 100 square feet. Share This Article Change Colour Hydrangea Plant Video Tutorial | The WHOot Change Colour Hydrangea Plant Video Tutorial share Wine Bottle Planter Most hydrangeas thrive in rich, porous, somewhat moist soils. It is advised that you add compost to enrich poor soil. Hydrangeas thrive in full sun in the morning and they like some afternoon shade. They will still grow and bloom in partial shade. The photo below was found on Bella Wedding Flowers and it’s a great example of the typical hydrangea colours. There are so many choices and it’s hardly surprising it’s such a popular flower! Did you know that by changing your soil pH, you can change the colour of the Hydrangeas? There are some limitations to this process so the following needs to be taken into consideration. You can not change the colour of White Hydrangeas to pink or blue. As the Hydrangeas age sometimes a bit of red comes through the blooms but this is purely down to nature.

Whilst you may see pictures around the web of blood red Hydrangeas a dark pink is a more realistic result particularly if you live in a hot climate. How To Change Colour Of Hydrangeas Video Tutorial -: We have included a very helpful video that gives you all the tips and tricks on how you can get those gorgeous Hydrangea colours for your garden. Click play above to view ⇑ It is unlikely that you will be able to alter the intensity of the colour. By fertilizing your plants a couple of times a year though, this may assist with the saturated colour of your Hydrangeas. Again, this is likely due to the fact your plants are enjoying improved health and you’re doing a great job in the garden! Finally, it’s important to remember that it is unlikely that your hydrangeas will retain their colour if the soil conditions are not right. We have included a link to a DIY Soil Test for your Hydrangeas below as well as how to grow Hydrangeas from cuttings and how to care for your hydrangeas. Be sure to scroll our page and check out all the ideas.

You can find a detailed explanation on how to change the colour of your hydrangeas plus additional helpful tips and tricks at the Bloggers site at the following link – read more — How to change the Colour of Hydrangeas If you are a keen gardener, you will know just how important PH Level is if you want your garden to not only survive but thrive. This is what Garden.com has to say: “The pH scale has 14 units and is centred on 7, which is neutral. Levels below 7 are considered in the acidic or sour range; readings above 7 are alkaline or sweet. Soil nutrients are at their optimum availability in the range between 6 and 7. Most plants grow best in this range, although some type of plant growth can take place anywhere between 3.5 and 10.” The soil is of particular significance to hydrangeas because its acidity determines the colour. If the soil is acidic with a pH of around 4.5 to 5.0, the flowers will be light blue to electric or even peacock blue as is often the case in mountainous conditions. However, most garden soils are much less acidic and the flowers pink.

Upcycled Crib Play Station The white cultivars remain white regardless of the soil pH but if you want to change the colour of the other cultivars, lime the soil for pink flowers or add aluminium sulphate for blue flowers. You must change the soil pH before flower buds form if you want to change their colour so treat the soil after august. Hydrangeas tend to get sunburnt when in full sun as indicated by a browning of the flowers and or foliage. They hate north winds but thrive in dappled shade or on the south side of the house. Hydrangeas don’t like to dry out too much and will wilt when they need watering. A bucket of water a week should be enough to keep them going in warm weather. Feed them in June with complete fertiliser. They have fibrous roots close to the soil surface so mulch is recommended. Overall, hydrangeas are really tough and will survive almost anywhere, even in a windy coastal spot.

To find out how to complete your PH Soil Test visit the following link — >> DIY Soil Ph Test Tutorial Manipulating Hydrangea Flower Color - Hydrangea Bouquet Hydrangea Flowers How to Manipulate Hydrangea Color Manipulating the color of your hydrangea blooms through use of specific elements is one of the most intriguing aspects of hydrangea gardening. Although seemingly magical, the chemistry of your soil gives a somewhat predictable measure of hydrangea color change. Hydrangea flower clusters can vary in color in shades of blue hydrageas, pink hydrangeas, reddish-wine hydrangeas, purple hydrangeas, mauve hydrangeas, and several shades in between. Flower clusters of the hydrangea macrophylla are available in two forms: the garden hortensias or “mop-headed” hydrangea types and the lacecap hydrangea with flat flower heads. The hortensias consist of almost entirely sterile flowers that are arranged into pom-pom like hydrangea balls. Lacecap hydrangeas, on the other hand, have a flat center made up of fertile flowers and larger, colorful sterile hydrangea flowers on the outer edge.

The names of many hydrangeas (e.g. ‘Nikko blue’ and ‘Forever Pink’) can be somewhat deceiving. A blue hydrangea given certain conditions will produce pink or mauve hydrangea flowers, while a pink hydrangea given the right nutrients will be blue or purple hydrangea. There are two factors that affect flower color of hydrangeas: the amount of light the plant receives and the pH of the soil. Although hydrangea macrophylla can tolerate full sun, they will prefer and thrive in partial shade. Shade helps maintain the individual hydragea flower petals, keeping them from burning in the hot afternoon sun. If grown in sufficient shade, the hydrangea flowers will look good all summer long and will begin changing texture and color in the fall.. It is also interesting to note that varying degrees of shade will also affect flower hydrangea color. Two identical hydrangea plants, planted right next to each other, can have different flower tones relative to the degrees of shade/light they receive. The main influence that affects flower hydrangea color is soil pH, which is a measure of the soil’s acidity. The pH scale is from 0 to 14.

Seven is the midpoint and is neutral. PH levels above 7 indicate alkalinity, while those below 7 represent increasing degrees of acidity. The average garden soil is slightly acidic in the range from 5.5 to 6.5. The pH range of 4.5 to 7.5 is not uncommon in garden soils. Blue hydrangeas require a highly acid soil, while pink hydrangeas are produced in a neutral or slightly acid soil. Again, even the variety ‘Nikko blue’ hydrangea if planted in a neutral soil will produce pink hydrangea flowers. At a pH of 4.5, the color will be deep, vivid blue hydrangea, but as the pH scale goes upward toward neutral, the color will begin to change from blue to purple, from purple to mauve, and from mauve to pink. A starting point to manipulating hydrangea flower color is to know exactly what you soil pH is. Your local cooperative extension service or garden center may be able to instruct you on this procedure. The results of this test will let you know exactly how acid or alkaline your soil is.

If you’re growing hydrangeas in two different soils, you may want to check each soil type for varying pH levels. If you have a blue hydrangea, and would it to have lavender to pink hydrangea flowers, you need to raise the pH or alkalinity in your soil. Adding lime to your soil can do this. Aluminum is the element that is responsible for the blue hydrangea color. Aluminum, though, becomes more unavailable to the plant as the soil pH becomes closer to neutral. By adding lime to your soil, your soil becomes more alkaline, and hence the color of your hydrangea can change from blue to varying degrees of pink. In general, 4 ounces of lime around the base of your hydrangea plant can change the pH of your soil by one point. You can add lime in four-ounce increments until you reach the color of pink you desire. You need to try and raise your pH to 6.5. Depending on your soil texture and how acid your soil was to begin with, this can be a long process, taking up to 2 growing seasons if you have an extremely acid soil high in organic matter.

Adding nitrogen and phosphorus also aids in preventing the absorption of aluminum and gives a good, clear pink hydrangea color. Conversely, if you have a pink hydrangea and would like to make it blue or purple, you need to lower the pH to make the soil more acid. This can be done by adding aluminum sulfate to the soil around the base of your plant. Aluminum sulfate is available at most garden centers. Follow the label directions carefully and don’t overdo it. In addition, you do not want to add nitrogen or phosphorus to your soil, as these elements help promote pink colors. Since many general-purpose fertilizers contain these elements in large amounts, it is better to add single-element fertilizers such as muriate and potash. Remember that hydrangea color changes will not occur overnight, and are sometimes not predictable. The plants genetics and soil both play a part in manipulating its flower color. It can be very exciting watching the results of your soil amendment and the degrees of color change.

Question: If your soil has a ph of around 8, what colour are your hydrangeas likely to be?
Answer: Pink