Duffle Coat History, Details & Buying Guide — Gentleman's Gazette Duffle Coat History, Details & Buying Guide January 3, 2013 In the new year, we are continuing our overcoat series with an in-depth look at the hard-wearing Duffle coat. We’ll outline its history , details , how to wear it, and how to buy the best Duffle coat for you . Duffle Coat History Just like the trenchcoat, there are manifold variations of the duffle coat today, and while all are perfectly fine to wear, it is interesting to know the origins of the garment and how it obtained the characteristic hood and toggle buttons. Notably, the duffle coat remains the only coat in a classic gentleman’s wardrobe today that has a hood. Although similar hoods were long used in menswear dating back to early Christian monk’s habits, the hooded duffle coat as we know it today dates back to the 19th century. Belgian Origins of the Term ‘Duffel’ Duffle Coats abord HMS Iron Duke 1919 The most common myth about the origins of the Duffle is that the coat is of Belgian heritage.

The Belgian town of Duffel in the province of Antwerp was known as a clothmaking town in the 15th century that exported its cloth all over Europe. The “duffel” fabric itself was a black, rough woolen fabric, and the duffle coat was in fact named after it. However, the duffle coat itself was never produced in the namesake city, nor was it made from Duffel fabric. Anglo-Saxon Heritage Generals Bubbles Barker & Monty in huge Duffle Coat Many claim that the English borrowed the Belgian term to create the duffle coat as we know it today, and while it is correct that the English military and especially Sir Bernard “Monty” Montgomery and Sir David Stirling , founder of the SAS, popularized this garment during WWII, the British origins of this toggle closure overcoat can be traced back to 1887. At the time, John Partridge, a British purveyor of outerwear, began to design and offer the duffle coat for sale. The look back then was quite different from today, though it already featured the characteristic wooden toggles.

The coat was shorter and cut very roomy with a slightly angled toggle front closure, which looks similar to vintage motorcycle jackets . Polish Frock Coat at around 1850 – predecessor of the duffle coat with toggles & hood A few years later, the Royal British Navy was searching for a hard-wearing, sailor-proof coat, and so the British Admiralty commissioned the duffle coat, which turned out to be a great success and was after that worn on military ships around the world. Polish Ancestors Even though John Partridge designed the British duffle coat, he clearly was inspired by the Polish “frock” coat. It was first introduced around 1820 and gained some popularity in continental Europe in the 1850’s. Just like the modern duffle coat, it was tailored with a hood and a horizontal toggle closure. Of course, back then pockets were not part of a coat and was worn more closely fitted than the bulky cut of the British Navy, but nevertheless, there is a great resemblance. Toggle closures have rarely been used in menswear for the last 200 years.

The Peak Jean Cocteau in short, white duffle coat with Coco Chanel & Miss Weiseveiller in Veneto Street, Rome 1958 The duffle coat probably reached peak popularity during the 1950’s – 1960’s for several reasons. First of all, Field Marshal Montgomery had helped to create an iconic look during World War II, which is why the duffle is to this day also known as a Monty in the UK. As such, it does not surprise that he was even made into a wax figure – wearing the Monty coat, of course. Also, Colonel David Sterling liked his coat so much that he even wore it in the desert! After the war, the military released surplus duffle coats to the public, and artists, students, and intellectuals wore them. Jean Cocteau popularized his very own version in white. As a consequence, mothers would dress their children in them, raincoats adapted the duffle cut and the Dutch men’s fashion publication SIR published an article titled “The Monty-Coat Forever”.

Sir David Stirling, founder of the SAS with Duffle Coat in the Desert Farid Chenoune, author of the book Men’s Fashion History, claims it was often worn with former naval sweaters, a college scarf , and corduroy trousers, but based on the many pictures I have seen from that period, I can say that it was worn with all kinds of garments, suits, and even tuxedos! After the coat had reached the peak of its popularity, it never came close to the same level of success again. You will still see duffle coats on the street today, even though these models are often fashion interpretations of the original, far from the real thing. Hemp Rope & Wooden Toggles Duffle Coat Details & Characteristics Since the 20th century, a duffle coat is made of a heavy, coarse woolen fabric. It features a roomy box-cut with a hood, a square shoulder yoke, and large patch pockets with hemp rope and wooden toggle closures. The Fabric The Original Huge Duffle coat worn elegantly As mentioned above, this coat got its name, though indirectly, from the Belgian city of Duffel and the rough and heavy linen and woolen cloth produced there.

As a side note, this is also the fabric used for the original duffle bag. Although the coat bears its name, is was never actually used for the duffle coat production. Instead, a similarly heavy 34 oz per yard (1050 grams per meter) of double-faced, boiled woolen cloth with a twill structure (similar to Serge) was used. As of 1900, the British Admiralty demanded that all fabric including the wool had to be British, and so only domestic cloth was used. The original color for military duffle coats was camel beige, but in the early 20th century, khaki and brown versions were used. However, the navy was not used until the thirties. In the fifties, navy blue and other colors became more popular with the public, and today you can find them in almost any color including red, racing green, olive green, gray, fawn, yellow, white… If you look at the picture of Monty, you can see that the coat has a thick nap similar to the Casentino cloth . I think this was simply an effect that came with the age of the woolen fabric since new duffle coats did seem to have it.

Loden Early Ad by Gloverall In 1950, the Englishman Harold Morris and his wife Freda, who were already in the glove and overall business for blue collar workers, bought some surplus duffle coat fabric from the Navy along with some duffle coats and recreated them for workers. However, when the demand plummeted, they refocused on the consumer market with great success and became well known as the brand Gloverall – an amalgamation of gloves and overall. Instead of the original fabric, they used a 34 oz Tyrolean Loden fabric. Loden is a great fabric for outdoor use because its woven base is felted afterward, providing the cloth with a water repellent finish that is very hard wearing. Other Fabrics With elevated popularity in the fifties and sixties, different fabrics were used for duffle coats. At that time, synthetic fibers were state of the art and so you’d find Nylon wool and loden blends in addition to more traditional camel hair, tweed , gabardine and even popeline for summer. Details The Cut David van Epps, in a duffel coat, with members of the 894 Royal Naval Air Squadron.

He and other Americans chose to fight for Britain before the U.S. entered World War II. In the early days of the naval duffle coat, the garment was rather spartan. If you look at the old pictures, you can see how overwhelming these coats were in size. Especially the smaller sailors look a bit lost in such a huge garment. At the time of its introduction, the crew still had to climb rigging, and so they needed to be able to move in their coats, hence the wide cut. However, at the same time, it was difficult to keep the body warm with so many open holes and so some sailors would tie the duffle coat to their body with a rope or add cord to the inside of their hood allowing them to achieve a tight fit around their face. After the Admirals in charge had received some feedback about the coat, some design changes were made. The duffle was cut more narrowly with a straight seam down the front with a generous overlap. Shoulders were reinforced with another layer of cloth and studs were attached to the hood, allowing sailors to adjust better it. Overall, it looked much more like it does today.

Regarding coat length, the original duffle coats were rather short, just about as long as a peacoat . During WWII, the length increased to about knee length or above and today you will find most coats to be somewhere in between. Cord & Toggle Leather & Horn Toggles The toggles are probably the duffle coat’s most characteristic feature. Originally, hemp cord was used in combination with wooden toggles. Gloverall substituted them with more refined looking horn toggles and leather ties in 1954, and today most toggles are made out of plastic. In the beginning, the Royal Navy seems to have favored three toggles, but later they included a fourth. Purists may want to go with four but at the end of the day, it does not matter. You often read that toggles are easier to close with gloves than buttons. In my experience, the opposite is true, and the toggles are there for a distinctive look. Collar Strap Collar Bar Similarly to the trench coat, the duffle coat has a bar underneath the collar, which is closed with two buttons so your neck can be better protected from the elements.

Shoulder Pads The shoulders feature a double layer of cloth which serves to both help repel water better and prevent premature wear of the shoulder areas due to carrying items on one’s shoulder. Patch Pockets & Wrist Tighteners on Monty Coat Patch Pockets A duffle coat features two prominent patch pockets on the outside. I have seen some with flaps though the original naval duffle coat is likely the one without flaps. Lining The old duffles did not have a lining but in 1954, Gloverall added a checked lining to their coats and lately it seems like some companies even use – charmingly – a Union Jack for a lining. Purists should do it like Monty and skip the lining. Interestingly, the original Monty coat featured thigh straps on the inside of the coat that allowed you to fasten the coat to your legs. When to Wear & How to Combine a Duffle Coat Modern day Duffle coat in camel F.E. Castleberry in red Gloverall duffle coat Traditionally, the duffle coat was worn on top of uniforms and even today, it is worn a bit more roomy that other overcoats.

Although it was combined in the fifties with a variety of suits and sport coat outfits, it is decidedly more suited to casual outfits in tweed, thornproof, Saxony , etc., rather than superfine worsteds. Needless to say, never wear it with a tuxedo unless, like Jean Cocteau, you consider this coat to be your universal overcoat. It also pairs well with jeans, chinos and corduroys as well as tennis sweaters or other heavy knit wear. Regarding footwear, boots or brogues are better than plain toe oxfords and many people even combine it with sneakers. If you decide to buy a duffle coat in an intense color such as red or yellow, try to tone down the rest of your outfit since you are already making a bold statement. Overall, I would recommend it for all things casual and consider it improper with anything business or evening related. Where & How to Buy Duffle Coats? Original Montgomery Duffle Coat Over its existence, millions of duffle coats have been produced, and there are still plenty of manufacturers who offer duffle coats or their particular spin on it. For you, that means a wide range of choices is available between vintage, new, and bespoke.

However, at the same time, this means that there is a lot to choose from and in the following section I will try to help find the duffle coat that is right for you. Used & Vintage Duffle Coats One if the first civilian duffles made by Gloverall in the early 1950’s. It is a made from Loden wool fabric with rope and wood toggles. True WWII duffle coats in great condition are difficult to find. They pop up every once in a while on eBay for about £10 – 100, but shipping from the UK is quite expensive. Of course, you may also be lucky to find a great duffle coat at a local store like vintage menswear in London , but this will be the exception to the rule. Thankfully, the wider cut will make shopping online less risky regarding sizing. Also, you can try vintage websites, such as this one, this one or that one. However, always bear in mind that the smallest size they used to make them in was a size 1, and I have seen a 6’2″ man weighing 250 lb. look like he has to grow into it.

So only go for WWII coats it if you really want the real thing. Otherwise it will just be way too big on you. New Duffle Coats Modern Monty Coat When it comes to new duffle coats, you have an almost endless choice of suppliers but none of them truly provides the real thing. Likely the closest imitation regarding fabric and details comes from Gloverall – called Monty, it currently costs £325. They claim it is original, but just the fact that they use a 90% wool and 10% PA blend proves that it is far from authentic. The fabric comes from Italy and is not 34oz heavy as it used to be. The company likes to market their Monty as the “original” duffle coat despite the fact that the company was not founded until 1951, long after the inception of the naval duffle coat. If you can overlook this marketing transgression, and live with 10% nylon, it is the closest thing to the original, and it comes in sizes that fit better than the real coats. Another supplier that claims to make original coats is Original Montgomery , which once again shows what an impact the Field Marshal had in Britain.

According to their website, they have been producing duffle coats for the British Admiralty since the 1890’s, and still produce their signature product in England. Their product is less expensive – about £170 – and in return you get 30% polyester. That alone would be a reason for me not to buy it, but if you are on a budget, it may fit the bill. Varsity Duffle Coat Another manufacturer that provides 100% Loden duffle coats is Schneiders Salzburg from Austria. In the US, they are not readily available, but in Europe they are widely available in haberdasheries. If you want a duffle coat with flap, LL Bean offers an 18oz version in wool and if you live in Germany, you should consider Ladage & Oelke in Hamburg, who have been offering this classic in various colors for years. If you do not concerned with absolute authenticity, there are a number of manufacturers that offers adapted designs of the duffle coat. They include Harnold Brook, which in fact used to make the real deal once upon a time but it seems like they were taken over by an Italian company recently.

Japanese companies like Headporter Plus offer their version. A more fashion forward house, Comme des Garcons, is currently selling a Varsity duffle coat by Junya Watanabe for about €1000. Personally, I would stick with a more classic cut in a vivid color such as green, red or yellow, but each to his own. Bespoke Bespoke Duffle Coat in Red by Richard Anderson Last but not least, you always have the option to go bespoke. Although every bespoke tailor should be able to make you one, many may not be familiar with the specific details and due to the lack of time for research, they may decline the project. Even on Savile Row , duffle coats are not the standard but it seems like Richard Anderson has developed a custom program for duffle coats made from a 21 oz wool melton cloth in various colors. Of course, a bespoke garment will be considerably more expensive than a standard duffle coat off the rack, but the fit should also be superior and you can build your very own garment in the fabric of your choice – maybe you can find a special 34oz Loden fabric or even a real Duffel – wouldn’t that be something?

Like many things in classic fashion, a garment such as the duffle coat, if you can forsee wearing it for many years, would be worth the investment. If you have other sources for duffle coats, please contact me and I will add them to the article. What duffle coats do you own, and what colors are your favorite? 26 Things You Might Not Know Were Named After Places | Mental Floss 26 Things You Might Not Know Were Named After Places You know the names. You might not know where they came from. 1. Cheddar Cheese This ubiquitous cheese gets its name from the town of Cheddar in southwest England. Unlike other cheeses named for their town of origin, like Gorgonzola and Parmesan, Cheddar is not covered by a Protected Designation of Origin, which means no matter where it is produced it can still legally be called Cheddar cheese. 2. Duffel Bags While the phrase duffel bag now stands for a particular style of bag, they were originally named for the thick Duffel cloth they were made out of, which was produced in the town of Duffel, Belgium. Duffle coats are named for the same cloth. 3.

Lyme Disease While this disease has been present for thousands of years, it wasn’t until a large outbreak of cases in the towns of Lyme and Old Lyme, Connecticut, during the 1970s that the full syndrome was recognized. 4. Chihuahuas These popular tiny dogs get their name from the state of Chihuahua in Mexico, where excavations of pottery bearing their likeness prove the breed was in the area more than 1,400 years before the first Europeans arrived. 5. The Rosetta Stone This invaluable stone, which led to the understanding of Ancient Egyptian hieroglyphics, was rediscovered by Napoleon’s forces in the Egyptian town of Rashid, or as the French called it, Rosette (Rosetta.) 6. Rugby According to legend, this sport was invented when a pupil at Rugby School in England picked up the ball and ran with it during a soccer game. What is certain is that the first written rules for the game originated at the school in 1845. 7. Turquoise This semi-precious stone was originally mined in Persia, but got its name from the French word for the Turkish merchants who first sold it in Europe.

Turkeys (the birds) originated in America but get their name for the same reason. 8. Jalapeños While known in its native Mexico as huachinango or chile gordo, to the rest of the world Jalapeños get their name from the town of Xalapa or Jalapa. Pony image via Shutterstock 9. Shetland Ponies These small ponies are native to the Shetland Islands located northeast of mainland Scotland. Their stocky build made them perfect for the harsh climate of the subarctic islands, where their ancestors have been kept and bred since the Bronze Age. 10. The Tuxedo We owe the popularity of this formal dinner jacket to King Edward VII, but the name is all American. When an American friend of the then-Prince of Wales wore the new style to the Tuxedo Park Club in New York, the style caught on among the members, and the jacket became synonymous with the club. 11. Sherry This fortified wine is named for the Anglican version of its town of origin, Jerez (or Xeres) de la Frontera in Spain.

Like champagne, sherry is a Protected Designation of Origin, and only wine from that area of Spain can be labeled sherry in Europe. 12. Paisley The distinctive paisley pattern is originally from India or Persia, and has been in use in the Middle East and Asia since around 200 AD. When its European popularity boomed and imports couldn’t keep up with the demand, various cities produced their own, including the town of Paisley in Scotland. 13. Chantilly Lace Famous in popular culture for the Big Bopper’s hit of the same name in 1958, this style of lace-making dates to the 1600s. While the majority of the lace was actually produced elsewhere, it gets its name from the town of Chantilly in France. 14. Marathons The name for the 26.2 mile race famously comes from the legend of Pheidippides, a Greek runner who supposedly ran from the city of Marathon to Athens to announce that they had defeated the Persians in battle. 15.

Rottweilers These large dogs are named for the town they originated in, Rottweil in Germany, where they were used to herd livestock and pull carts. 16. Hamburgers Minced beef originated in Europe in the 1400s. When immigrants from Germany came to America, they brought the popular “Hamburg steak,” cheap patties mixed with spices made famous by that seaside town. 17. Lesbianism The term lesbian was first used to describe gay women in the 1890s, for the Greek island of Lesbos. That's where the ancient poet Sappho lived with, and wrote about her love for, a group of women. In 2008, inhabitants of the island tried to “reclaim” the name in court, insisting that only people from Lesbos fit the term. 18. The Ebola virus This deadly disease was named in 1976 for the Ebola River in Zaire, which was near where the first outbreak occurred. Pilsner image via Shutterstock 19. Pilsner Beer This pale lager was created in response to the dissatisfaction with the quality of beer in the present-day Czech Republic during the early 1800s.

In 1842, a brewer in the town of Pilsen created a new style of beer that was a big hit. 20. Balaclavas The favorite headgear of skiers and robbers alike, the balaclava was worn by English troops unaccustomed to the bitter cold Russian weather during the Crimean War. Despite not being called balaclavas until almost 30 years later, the name comes from the town of the same name in present-day Ukraine where an important battle was fought. 21. Varnish The resin from ancient forests was first used to make varnish in Berenice, Libya, which eventually became Vernix in Latin, from which we get the modern word. 22. Ascot/Cravat The must-have neckband of the well-to-do in the 1800s, the ascot is a type of cravat named for its pervasive presence at the Ascot Racecourse in England. The cravat itself is named for the French word for Croatia, natives of which popularized the style at the court of Louis XIII. 23.

Uranium Despite having nothing to do with Uranus, in 1789 German chemist Martin Heinrich Klaproth named this newly discovered element after the seventh planet, which had itself been discovered only eight years before. 24. Denim The popular fabric was originally a variation on a serge fabric made by the André family in Nîmes, France. The name “serge de Nîmes” was eventually shortened to denim. 25. The Charleston One of the biggest dance crazes of all time, the Charleston was popularized in a song of the same name in the 1923 Broadway show Runnin' Wild. While the choreography for the show was most likely original, the style came from the Juba dance moves that originated among slaves on plantations, variations of which remained popular with African-Americans in southern cities like Charleston, South Carolina. 26.

Limousine Limo image via Shutterstock The first limos, built in 1902, got their name from the French region Limousin, either because people thought the cloth covering on the back of the cars resembled the distinctive hoods worn by the shepherds there, or because limousine drivers wore similar cloaks to protect themselves from the elements. Winter Outerwear: Duffle Coats, a Short Inspiration Album : malefashionadvice Here is the album I like many of you am really hyped on F/W stuff right now so I thought I'd do a short album to get you thinking about a different type of outerwear. A brief history: Duffle coats (duffel is the more correct version) supposedly originated in a suburb of Antwerp, Belgium. They were (again supposedly) named after the small town of Duffel which was famous for producing a thick, hardy, coarse woollen weave that was also used to make the original Duffel bags. Interestingly enough, the coats were never produced in the town of Duffel and were first put into use, like many things we love, by the British Navy.

During the First World War sailors were issued camel colored duffle coats because the toggles were easy to do and undo while wearing thick gloves on decks of ships. They also had a hood (relatively uncommon in men's fashion) that could fit over naval caps. The coat was of course popularized during the Second World War by Field Marshal Montgomery and after the war Gloverall purchased a bunch of the deadstock and made a modified civilian version of them. The rest is history and they are an excellent and underutilized piece of outerwear that I have come to love. LARK: Feature: Gloverall Feature: Gloverall The word Duffle originally referred to a Heavy Woollen Cloth closely woven for warmth and manufactured in the Belgian Town of Duffel. However over the years it has come to signify a hooded coat with distinctive toggle fastenings which was adopted by the British Navy and used by officers and men of the watch to protect against the biting Atlantic and North Sea winds. The toggles could be unfastened whilst wearing thick gloves, and hoods were carefully designed to fit over peaked Naval caps. The pictures below are from the Gloverall catalogue.

Photographs of servicemen during the 1914 - 18 war show a duffle type coat. Between the end of World War I and the start of World War II the coat was modified into the traditional Naval Duffle. Each Gloverall coat comes with a card that has a message from Mrs. Frieda Morris, the wife and business partner of Mr. Harold Morris. It reads as follows. "in 1950 out of sheer necessity my late husband Mr. Harold Morris and myself went into business as industrial clothing specialists with an already established connection that had been built up over a period of some years previously. We then sold cotton, leather, plastic-coated chain mail, industrial Gloves and also cotton Overalls. My husband dreamed up the name Gloverall. I made the script and had the foresgiht to register it as a 'brand' name which is now covered in most countries." -Mrs Frieda Morris The most well known Gloverall Duffle is named after Bernard Montgomery , 1st Viscount Montgomery of Alamein. Known as Monty he was a Field Marshal (the highest military rank in the United Kingdom).

Monty was known to wear the original naval duffle which this one was fashioned after in his honour. Find the Monty here . Find the contemporary slim duffle for men here . Duffle coats are for women too! Find the women's contemporary duffel in cranberry here . (removable storm flap) (wooden toggle with leather strap) Find the toggle melton cape coat here . "Recognized worldwide as the foremost Original Duffle Coat Gloverall has gained Iconic status as a design classic. Playing a part in fashion and culture through the last 60 years Gloverall draws on it's Military and Industrial Heritage to be one of the most respected and loved British Brands. A balance of tradition and modernity reflects through our coats with manufacturing in England and our newly introduced collection Made in London England." The history of this coat and of this brand is really exciting, but the cultural significance and the style seal the deal.

Duffel (Municipality, Province of Antwerp, Belgium) This page is part of © FOTW Flags Of The World website Duffel (Municipality, Province of Antwerp, Belgium) Belgium: Municipal flags Presentation of Duffel The municipality of Duffel (16,140 inhabitants on 1 January 2007; 2,271 ha) is located on the river Nete, 10 km north of Mechelen and 15 km south of Antwerp . A few artefacts from the Ages of Bronze and Iron were found in Duffel, but there is no historical record of the place before the 12th-13th centuries. The town was then divided into three domains: Duffel-Hoogheid (Lordship), Duffel-Voogdij (Tutorship) and Duffel-Perwijs (Parish). In 1059, the town was mentioned as Duffla, a contraction of dubro and lo(cus), which means "a place near water". The oldest lords of Duffel are the Hildincshusen brothers, lords of Ter Elst.

They were succeeded by the Berthout from Grimbergen (later from Mechelen). The Tutorship of Duffel belonged to the abbey of Nivelles until the end of the 13th century, when it was ceded to the Van Wesemael family. Perwijs belonged to the Duffel branch of Berthout. Through marriages and purcheses, the three domains of Duffel were united in the beginning of the 17th century by the family of Merode, also Marquis de Deinze , that kept it until the French Revolution. The history of Duffel was eventful. The town blossomed in the 15th century thanks to clothmaking. Duffel fabrics were exported to Lübeck, Riga, Cologne and later to Spain and Portugal. The words "duffel", designing a black, rough woolen fabric, and "duffel coat" recall that period. However, the link between Duffel and the duffel coat is not straightforward and there is no duffel coat manufacture in the town.

The duffelse jas (lit., Duffel coat) is indeed not from Duffel but rather an Anglo-Saxon product, originally imported by English soldiers. However, Duffel was famous for the high and constant quality of its fabric and the name of the town was borrowed to design the famous coats with wooden buttons. Duffel was wealthy and had several brotherhoods, as well as three municipal militia; the St. George's Militia (Sint-Jorisgilde) took part to the Sacrament Procession in Lier in 1416 and was rewarded with a barrel of beer from Hamburg. In 1497, the Duffel militia won the first prize in a big shooting contest held in Mechelen. The next year, the town organized its own contest, including not only shooting events but also theater shows, set up in order to keep the visitors in the town all the day long. This is the origin of the Rhetoricians' Chamber of Duffel, known since the 16th century. The Eighty Years' War (1568-1648) definitively ended welfare in Duffel and opened a long period of war.

In 1914, the whole center of the town was destroyed during the fighting around the river Nete. In the meantime, Duffel had became a small center of trade and industry. In 1840, it was one of the only villages in the region of Mechelen not relying exclusively on agriculture. Due to its location on the Nete and the building of the railway Brussels -Antwerp, it was connected to the important towns and to the port of Antwerp. Trade of lime, wood and coal flourished. In Duffel, the industrial revolution started with the creation of a wollen cloth manufacture powered with steam engines. The tileries, opened a few decades later, were more successful and became the biggest employers in the municipality with some 500 workers. In the early years of the 20th century, the paper mill G. Morrees en Cie, later renamed Papeteries Anversoises, was opened along the dykes of the Nete. Other factories were built there during the 20th century. Duffel is the birth town of Cornelius Abt, better known as Kiliaen (1528/9-1607).

Abt took the name of Van Kiel since he was born near a kiel (careenage?). He studied in Leuven and worked for 50 years as a proof-reader with the famous printer Christoffel Plantijn. He made the first Latin-Dutch dictionary and set up the bases of the usual Dutch language. Ivan Sache, 29 January 2006 Municipal flag of Duffel The municipal flag of Duffel is vertically divided yellow-red-yellow-red-yellow-red-yellow (seven stripes) with three white fleurs de lis placed vertically in the central red stripe. According to Gemeentewapens in België - Vlaanderen en Brussel [w2v02] , the flag was adopted by the Municipal Council on 7 November 1988, confirmed by the Executive of Flanders on 9 May 1989 and published in the Belgian official gazette on 8 November 1989. The flag shows the arms of the Berthout family, charged with the three fleurs-de-lis from the arms of the lords of Wesemael (but see below). There are more details on the flag and arms of Duffel on the municipal website.

The municipal arms of Duffel are prescribed by Ministerial Decree of 16 February 1993 (Van evers en heiligen. Wapens en vlaggen van de gemeenten in de provincie Antwerpen [pbd98] says that the Decree confirmed the arms originally granted on 8 December 1952), and described as follows: Gedeeld: 1. in goud drie palen van keel en een schildhoek van zilver beladen met vijf hermelijnstaartjes schuinkruisgewijze geplaatst 2. in keel drie lelies van zilver. Per pale, first or three pales gules a canton argent five ermine placed in saltire, second gules three fleurs de lis argent. The municipal flag is described in the Ministerial Decree of 9 May 1989 as: Zeven even lange banen van geel en van rood met drie witte lelies paalsgewijze geplaatst op de middelste baan.

Seven equally wide yellow and red stripes with three white fleurs-de-lis placed palewise in the middle stripe. The flag and arms recall the old stamps (schepengezels) of the three administrations (schepenbanken) of Duffel, Duffel-Voogdij, Duffel-Perwijs and Duffel-Hoogheid. Each component had indeed its own magistrates and seal, based on the arms of the respective lord of the component. The seal of Duffel-Hoogheid is based on the arms of the Berthouts of Mechelen: Or three pales gules. The seal of Duffel-Perwijs is based on the arms of the Berthouts of Duffel: Or three pales gules a canton argent five ermine. The Duffel branch of Berthout was founded by Hendrik I, son of Wouter IV van Berthout (of Mechelen), and the canton was added as a mark of cadency to distinguish the two branches.

The seal of Duffel-Voogdij is made of a a shield wih three complete fleurs-de-lis supported by an abbot's crozier, recalling the abbey of Nivelles. The origin of the shield is doubtful; the stamps used by the Van Wesemael family have three fleurs-de-lis with indented basis, whereas the arms of the abbey of Nivelles had complete fleurs-de-lis. It is probable, however, that the seal was made after the arms of the oldest owner of Duffel-Voogdij, that is the abbey of Nivelles. Servais [svm55a] explains the mythical origin of the arms of Berthout as follows: In the 12th century, the Lord of Berthout helped the King of Aragon in his struggle against the Moors. He fought there three times; the first time, he was rewarded with an estate and the title of provincial governor, the second time he was rewarded with the King's daughter, but refused both and went back to Flanders. The third time, the King asked Berthout waht he would like as a reward.

Berthout asked for the right to bear the arms of Aragon and was granted them with three pales instead of four, celebrating his three victories over the Moors. The Gelre Armorial shows several Berthout coat of arms: - Berthout (Die He. (the Lord) van Mechelen, #809, folio 72v): "Or three pales gules"; - Henri VII Berthout (Die He. van Duffel, #833, folio 73v): "Or three pales gules (Berthout) a franc canton ermine"; - Jean de Berlaer (Berthout) (Die He. van Helmunt (Helmont), #838, folio 73v): "Argent three pales gules" ( Berlaer ) - Guillaume Berthout de Duffel (H. Willem v. Duffel, #893, folio 75v): "Or three pales gules a franc canton ermine a crescent sable".

The Gelre Armorial shows also several Wesemael coat of arms: - Jean of Wesemael, Marshal of Brabant (Die He. v. Weesmael, #813, folio 72v): "Gules three fleurs-de-lis couped argent"; - Gerrit of Wesemael, lord of Merksem (H. Gerit v. Mar, #829, folio 73r): "Or three fleurs-de-lis couped gules"; - Arnold of Wesemael, lord of Wyer (H. Arnt v. d. Wier, #1546, folio 107r): "Gules three fleurs-de-lis couped argent a label azure". The Lalaing Armorial shows "Gules three fleurs-de-lis couped argent" for Wesemael (#24, folio 72v).

Arnaud Leroy, Pascal Vagnat, Jan Mertens & Ivan Sache, 17 June 2007 English sailor suit garments : coats English Sailor Suit Garments: Coats Figure 1.--The CDV portrait of this unidentified boy was taken in Henry Wayland of Blackheath. The CDV is undated, but looks to have been taken in the 1880s. (CDVs were popular in Erope after they had been largely replaced by caninet cards in America.) He wears a pea coat, often called a reefer, over his sailor suit. The two principal navy-styled coasts are pea coats and reefer jackets. A pea coat is a cold weather outer coat. It is done in heavy wool and almos always navy blue. We do not have a great dealm of information, but believe that it was popularized the Royal Navy. We are not entirekly sure why they are called Pea coats. Some sources suggest that it is a partial translation of Dutch "pijjekker". Pea coats appear to have been adopted by the Royal Navy (early-19th century).

We are not sure when boys began wearing them, we suspect after mid-century when the sailor suit began to become popular for boys. We nore English boys wearing them in the late-19th century with their sailor suits. The length exteded below the waist. Pea coats were not always worn with sailor suits, but that seems to have been popular in the 19th century. The pea coat was adopted other European countries and the United States and like the sailor suit was also worn by boys in those countries. The pea coat today is a classic style and worn by boys who would not wear a sailor suit. The longer cut pea coat was originally an officers coat, but for boys the name reefer became very populasr, Since World War II, reefer jackets, another coat with naval origins, have become more popular for children. Several private schools adopted the reefer jacket as part of their school uniform. Many children in state schools wore duffle coats during the winter, but not as uniform item. Pea Coat A pea coat is a cold weather outer coat. It is done in heavy wool and almos always navy blue.

We do not have a great dealm of information, but believe that it was popularized the Royal Navy. We are not entirekly sure why they are called Pea coats. Some sources suggest that it is a partial translation of Dutch "pijjekker". "Pij" is a coarse cloth, first appearing in Middle Dutch. We suspect that the first fabric used for these jackets was Dutch or the Dutch word hab deen used in England. The Dutch of course have a very strong naval tradition as well and fought naval wars with Britain (17th century). Pea coats appear to have been adopted by the Royal Navy (early-19th century). The pea coat was designed to be warm in cold weather while still short enough to allow sailors to go up into the rigging and work unencumbered in the shrouds and rigging of a sail ship. We are not sure when boys began wearing them, we suspect after mid-century when the sailor suit began to become popular for boys. We nore English boys wearing them in the late-19th century with their sailor suits. The design can vary, but they generally are double breasted with broad lapels.

Wooden or metal buttons were common, but we see plastic buttons in the mid-20th cedntury. They often have vertical or slash side pockets, but we also see horizonal flap pockes. The length exteded below the waist. Pea coats were not always worn with sailor suits, but that seems to have been popular in the 19th century. The pea coat was adopted other European countries and the United States and like the sailor suit was also worn by boys in those countries. The pea coat today is a classic style and worn by boys who would not wear a sailor suit. Reefer Jacket "Reef" is a sailing term. Itmean reducing the area of the sail to catch the wind. Of course sailors needed to go up into the rigging to do this. And duringthe winter they needed warm jackets. The reefer is essentially the same as a pea coat. In the Royal Navy, the reefer was the officers version of the pea coat. It was basically the same as a pea coat, but was cut longer because officers did not have to go up in the rigging. It was sometimes referred to as a bridge coat because that was wear the oiffcers were.

The offiers woukld have gold buttons and epaulettes on their coats. The term reefer was adopted for the pea coats boys wore. In fact it was more common than the term pea coat evn though it was a shorter cut pea coat and did not have the trim of an officer's reefer. Duffle Coat The Royal Navy reflaced the pea coat during World War II with the duffle coat. As sail ships were no longer in use, alonger-cut coat could be used. The duffle coat was named after the Belgian town of Duffle, which produced the heavy, coarse cloth. They were alternatively known as 'Convoy' Coats, as they were issued to sailors on the Artic Convoys, or 'Monty' Coats, as they were a favourite of General Montgomery. The features which the pea coat didn't have were, the hood, which was extra large so the a naval cap could be worn, and the toggle and rope fastening which allowed the wearer to fasten the jacket whilst wearing gloves. Large numbers of these were sold after the war as surplus. They were common wear for young men in the 50 -60's.

A firm called Gloverall bought a huge quantity. They became associated with 'Lefties', as Michael Foot, the Labour Politician wore one on many occasions. Gradually they became popular with children, especially boys. Unlike the reefers, they were not worn with sailor suits which had gone out of style. Several private schools adopted the reefer jacket as part of their school uniform. Many children in state schools wore reefer jackets during the winter, but not as uniform item. 13 Fashions Born on the Battlefield | Mental Floss 13 Fashions Born on the Battlefield iStock Like us on Facebook Some say fashion follows function, and never is that truer than in wartime. Civilian fashion has been borrowing from soldiers’ uniforms for centuries; take a look at the gritty military origins of some of our most beloved fashion trends. 1.

RAGLAN SLEEVES Raglan sleeves are distinguished by a seam that goes directly from the underarm to the neckline, connecting the sleeve straight to the collar and making for a looser, more comfortable fit that’s popular today in sweatshirts and “ baseball tees .” Though it's a casual style, its origins are anything but—raglan sleeves are thought to be named after FitzRoy Somerset, 1st Baron Raglan, a British Army officer who fought in the 1815 Battle of Waterloo, resulting in the amputation of his right arm. The special sleeves were specially made for Baron Raglan by the coat makers Aquascutum around the time that the Baron became commander of the "Army of the East" for the Crimean War (where an ambiguous order he delivered resulted in the Charge of the Light Brigade). The sleeve was eventually adopted by for wear by two-armed swordsmen, who liked the freedom in movement the provided by the looser sleeve. (A less popular hypothesis says that a different Raglan during the Crimean War made some showerproof clothing for his men out of a potato sack.) 2. RAY-BAN SUNGLASSES In 1929, U.S.

Army Air Corps Lieutenant General John Macready asked a favor of a Rochester, New York medical supply company called Bausch & Lomb. As the military’s airplanes began going to previously unimaginable heights, aviators started to suffer from altitude sickness and headaches due to the bright, harsh blue and white colors of the sky. MacCready needed Bausch & Lomb to create special eyeglasses for the suffering pilots. In 1936, they introduced a prototype—the “Anti-Glare,” which had green lenses to cut out the sun’s glare without obscuring vision. They were a hit with aviators, and a few years later, they went on sale to the public, re-branded as the “Ray-Ban Aviator.” Post-war, Hollywood picked up the style and made the Ray-Ban brand—specifically, a new model called the Ray-Ban Wayfarer—even more popular, with stars such as James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause and Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s both sporting the now-iconic glasses, cementing their place as an American classic. 3.

THE NECKTIE The earliest known relatives of the necktie can be found around the necks of the famous Terracotta Warriors, which date back to about 210 BCE. But the necktie we know and love today was introduced by different soldiers—specifically, Croatian mercenaries who were hired to fight for the French during the Thirty Years War in the early-to-mid 1600s. As a part of their uniforms, the Croatian soldiers wore brightly colored handkerchiefs knotted around their necks. The mercenaries’ style was quickly borrowed by the French who fought alongside them; they dubbed the handkerchiefs “Croats” or “Cravats” (the Croatians refer to themselves as Hrvati ), the latter of which is still the modern French word for necktie. Cravats then became popular with the French upper-class; they weren't accepted for wear in court until 1646, when Louis XIV began sporting a white lace cravat. White lace cravats became extremely popular in the following decades, reaching England via the 1660 return of King Charles II from exile in France, and they continued to grow in popularity and variety over the next couple centuries.

Then, in the early 1800s, the cravat gave way to today’s necktie, and so many new ways to knot the ties were popularized—including the indefatigable bowtie— that numerous pamphlets and books were published on the subject (H. LeBlanc’s 1828 tome The Art of Tying the Cravat outlined a whopping 32 different styles). With the rise of mass manufacturing and the introduction of the modern long tie in the 1920s, ties became accessible to white-collar workers as a menswear standard, largely leaving the battlefield behind. However, a relative of the cravats worn by French nobility can be found on a different type of battlefield today—in the lacy white jabots of the United States Supreme Court . 4. CHINOS Chinos, the cotton twill trouser and springtime mainstay, were first popularized after American soldiers stationed in the Philippines during the Spanish-American War took a liking to the lightweight pants they’d been issued for the area’s tropical climate. The name “chinos” is supposedly based in the Spanish word the Chinese, who manufactured the fabric (and possibly the pants).

Post-war, chinos grew in popularity among civilians, and began to be manufactured in a variety of colors—though the original khaki color remained so popular that the pants themselves were often referred to simply as khakis , a quirk that persists to this day. However, the two terms are not technically interchangeable; khaki refers simply to the beige color, and actually predates the invention of chinos themselves. The light tan shade emerged from British-controlled India, when, circa 1846, the British army unit commanded by Sir Harry Lumsden opted for lightweight, light-colored uniforms that would allow soldiers to blend into the environment, as well as providing some relief from the heat. The color of the fabric was dubbed khaki, from the Urdu word for “soil-colored.” To sum it up, khaki is a color, while chino is a fabric—but both were designed to keep soldiers cool. 5. HIGH HEELS Believe it or not, even the dainty high heel has its roots in war. There’s evidence of heels worn by both men and women in Ancient Egyptian artifacts , but high-heeled shoes really gained prominence with horseback riding Persian warriors in the 15th century.

A raised, reinforced heel gave the Persian riders a better foothold in the saddle’s stirrup, allowing them better stability during horseback combat. "When the soldier stood up in his stirrups, the heel helped to secure his stance so that he could shoot his bow and arrow more easily,” said Elizabeth Semmelhack, a curator from the Bata Shoe Museum, told Racked . Though heels were later adopted by European nobility, and much later by modern women, you can see remnants of the horse-riding functionality in cowboy boots, which still have a slight heel perfect for a stirrup. 6. WELLINGTON BOOTS Another footwear innovation designed for soldiers on horseback was the Wellington boot. Introduced by the Duke of Wellington in the 19th century, the waterproof knee-high boots, or “wellies,” were cut lower in the back, freeing up the knees for mobility while riding a horse wearing newfangled trousers. Though wellies quickly grew fashionable among upper class civilians, the Wellington was actually a modification of a slightly different style of military boot: the Hessian , first worn by the German soldiers of the same name.

Like the early high heels worn by Persian riders, Hessian boots had a slight heel meant for locking into a stirrup, as well as a slightly pointed toe. Hessian boots were worn mainly by cavalry regiments before morphing into the trendier wellies; in the 1850s, rubber began being used to make the boots, giving us the wellies we know today. 7. BELTS Relatives of the belt have existed since the Bronze Age, but the belt as we know it largely originated with Napoleonic War soldiers’ uniforms. Originally worn on the outside of Prussian and Russian military jackets, the thick leather belts were meant to house a sheath for swords, as well as add decoration or rank designation. After World War I, when waistlines on men’s pants were lowered, mostly eliminating the use of suspenders, belts became popular for civilian use. 8. THE WRISTWATCH Women began small clocks attached to bracelets—as fashion over function—after the style was invented for a Hungarian Countess in 1868 (or possibly for Napoleon’s younger sister in 1810), but the wristwatch never truly gained ubiquity until after it was issued to soldiers fighting in World War I.

In 1900, finding the traditional men’s pocket watch increasingly impractical, Swiss watchmakers Omega began to supply simple wrist-bound timepieces to the British military for use in the Boer War. As early as 1902, advertisements touted the wristwatch as “an indispensable item of military equipment,” showing the watches worn by dashing British officers. In the United States, The Hamilton Watch Company was joining the action as the official supplier to the U.S. military just in time for World War I. A few years later, after linking up with the U.S. Air Force, Hamilton debuted the Khaki pilot’s watch, which became wildly popular with pilots and civilians alike. Back across the Atlantic, Louis Cartier (yes, that Cartier) designed a simple wristwatch that could be easily used by pilots, and later, drawing direct inspiration from the artillery tanks of World War I, introduced the simple, sturdy Cartier Tank watch in 1917. Legend has it that the first-ever owner of the Cartier Tank was General John Joseph Pershing , though it soon became a status symbol among civilians.

Still a staple of Cartier’s lineup, the Tank is now available in 41 different styles, and will turn 100 years old in 2017. 9. THE FISHTAIL PARKA Designed in 1951, the fishtail parka , or “M-51,” was first issued to U.S. soldiers fighting in the Korean War. Before Korea, the standard-issue cold weather parka was the N3-B, also known as a snorkel parka for its face-protecting zip-up hood and primarily used by flight crews in extremely cold climates. With the M-51, the U.S. Army developed a warm yet lightweight coat that would provide better mobility than its bulky predecessor. The coat’s “fish tail,” a split flap in the back of the coat, allowed soldiers to tie the coat around their upper legs for further protection against the wind. After the war, the surplus parkas became a hit with counterculture teens, especially in the United Kingdom, where the “mod” trend was beginning to take hold.

The parka’s place in pop culture notoriety was sealed with the 1979 film adaptation of The Who’s rock opera Quadrophenia and its iconic imagery of young rebels’ fishtail coats flapping in the wind as they ride through the streets of 1960s London. 10. THE DUFFEL COAT The Duffel Coat, made of heavy woolen fabric named for its birthplace in Duffel, Belgium, was commissioned by the British Navy to protect their sailors against the harsh cold and wind of the Atlantic during World War II. The Duffel is sometimes referred to as a Toggle Coat due to its characteristic wooden toggle fasteners, which replaced traditional buttons since they were easier to fasten with frozen fingers or thick gloves. Duffel Coats were purposely cut extra large so that they could fit over another coat in case of especially bad weather. In 1951, the surplus coats became commercially available to civilians, and have been a winter staple ever since. 11. THE PEA COAT The Pea Coat was also designed for Navy sailors.

Although historians aren’t quite sure which Navy (whether the Dutch, British, or American), the coat became most associated with “ reefers ,” sailors tasked with climbing a ship’s riggings to unfurl its sails, and therefore had a slimmer fit than the baggy-by-design Duffel. With a tighter-fitting pea coat, reefers were able to move more freely without sacrificing warmth; the pea coat’s broad collar was meant to be popped up to protect the neck in the event of strong winds. Where the “pea” came from is contested; some say it emerged from the Dutch twill fabric “pij” (pronounced like pea), whereas others claim its origins lie in “p-cloth,” or pilot cloth, another variation of thick twill fabric. The pea coat’s characteristic big round buttons are emblazoned with the “ fouled anchor ” design, which, according to legend, began as the personal seal of Lord Howard of Effingham, England’s Lord High Admiral during their historic defeat of the Spanish Armada in 1588, later adopted by navies around the world.

The thick navy jackets originally varied in length to show rank—the longer the coat, the higher the rank—but the longer version, known as “bridge coats,” fell out of vogue with civilians quickly in favor of the shorter, less constrictive reefer style. 12.THE TRENCH COAT The Trench Coat as we know it—long, lightweight, waterproof, usually khaki-colored—was indeed popularized in its namesake trenches of World War I, but it had already undergone a century of modifications before it reached the battlefield. Coat manufacturers began using rubberized cotton for waterproof outerwear as early as the 1820s for both military and civilian use—the most popular of these was the “mack coat,” named after creator Charles Macintosh. These mack coats were well-proofed against moisture but poorly ventilated. While they were worn by British infantrymen throughout the 1800s, the stifling fabric was less than ideal, causing the soldiers to sweat profusely—and, to make matters worse, the rubberized fabric sometimes melted in high heat.

In 1853, designer John Emary developed a more breathable, stable waterproof coat under the brand name Aquascutum (from the Latin words for water and shield), its design featuring the raglan sleeves pioneered by the brand around the same time. Then Thomas Burberry—yes, that Burberry—found a way to improve even further on the waterproofing formula, this time coating individual cotton or wool fibers rather than the whole cloth, naming this new fabric “gabardine.” Gabardine would later be used in both the coats and tents of Sir Ernest Shackleton his 1907 expedition to Antarctica. For its debut in the trenches of World War I in the following decade, the hardy yet lightweight coats were combined with another military development—the aforementioned khaki color, used to better blend in to the soil surroundings of trench warfare. These trench coats remained lightweight even when caked in mud, and featured large pockets for supplies as well as a small cape-like flap that allowed rainwater to run off the back. However, regular soldiers rarely got the chance to wear them, as the coats were typically reserved for higher-ranking officers. 13. THE BOMBER JACKET In 1917, the U.S.

Army established the Aviation Clothing Board, hoping to find a solution to keep World War I pilots warm as they flew in early airplanes, which had open-air cockpits. They settled on a short leather jacket with snug collars and cuffs, sometimes lined in fur. By the time World War II rolled around, this original design had given way to two different variations: the A-2 , made of horsehide leather with flap pockets, and the B-15 , often made of nylon, with a fur or fleece collar and slanted “slash” pockets. The more-insulated B-15 emerged as the popular choice among World War II pilots, whose cockpits were now enclosed but still subject to freezing temperatures. The B-15 gave way to the ubiquitous M-1 bomber jacket of the '50s and '60s, which featured a few small modifications. First, the fur collar was replaced by a less bulky knit, since the fur sometimes got in the way of parachute harnesses. The earlier jackets were issued in a dark blue color meant to blend in to the night sky, but this was changed to “sage green” in order to blend into the lush jungles of Korea and Vietnam.

After the Vietnam War, M-1’s were widely issued to police departments in black or navy, but the bomber jacket was also embraced by various counterculture movements like British punks in the '70s, or Americana-obsessed teens in Japan in the '80s, as well as reaching mainstream U.S. as a staple of hip-hop style in the '90s. May 3, 2016 - 12:00pm

Question: Duffel coats were named after a town in which country?
Answer: Belgium