The Rules of Draughts Game Categories The Rules of Draughts The game of Draughts goes by a variety of different names and has several different variations. The game given first is English Draughts which is known as Checkers in North America. Also given is Polish Draughts, which is played all over Western Europe and which is the most commonly played version of the game in International competition. Draughts or Checkers Equipment The game of Draughts is played on a standard Chess board 64 black and white chequered squares. Each player has 12 pieces normally in the form of fat round counters. The real shades of the pieces and the board do not necessarily need to be black and white but they are normally referred to as black and white, regardless. The board is placed between the two opponents so that the near right-hand corner square is white for both players (in the same way as for Chess). Preparation and Objective Black always plays first. A coin is tossed to decide which player will be black. Each player's pieces are placed on the 12 black squares nearest to that player.

The white squares are not used at all in the game - the pieces only move diagonally and so stay on the black squares throughout. The objective of the game is to take all of the opponent's pieces or to produce a position such that the opponent is unable to move. Play Players take turns to move a piece of their own colour. Any piece that reaches the far edge of the board is immediately crowned and is thereafter known as a "King". The act of crowning is a physical one - another piece of the same shade is placed on top of the piece in order to distinguish it from an ordinary piece. Until a piece is "crowned", it can only move and capture in a diagonally forwards direction. Kings are allowed to move and capture diagonally forwards and backwards and are consequently more powerful and valuable than ordinary pieces. However, ordinary pieces can capture Kings. Whenever a piece has an opponent's piece adjacent to it and the square immediately beyond the opponent's piece is vacant, the opponent's piece can be captured. If the player has the opportunity to capture one or more of the opponent's pieces, then the player must do so. A piece is taken by simply hopping over it into the vacant square beyond and removing it from the board.

Unlike an ordinary move, a capturing move can consist of several such hops - if a piece takes an opponent's piece and the new position allows it to take another piece, then it must do so straight away. The move finishes only when the position of the capturing piece no longer allows it to taken any more pieces or when an uncrowned piece arrives at the far edge of the board and is crowned. If more than one piece can capture, then the player is entirely free to choose which of those pieces to move. Likewise, if a capturing piece is able to capture in more than one direction, the player is free to choose which direction to move in. i.e. it is not compulsory to move the piece or take the route that will result in the maximum number of captures. If no capturing moves are available, then an ordinary move is made by moving a piece one square diagonally. In the past, the "huffing" rule was used. For this, if a player noticed that the opponent had failed to capture when the option was open (even if the offending piece had already captured one or more pieces that turn), the player can huff the offending piece before the next move is made and it is removed from the board.

Nowadays, this rule is rarely used. Instead a player just points out the error and the opponent is forced to make the correct move. Finishing The game is won by the player who first manages to take all his opponent's pieces or renders them unable to move. A draw occurs by agreement at any point during the game. If a player refuses the offer of a draw, that player is required to force a win or show a decided advantage within 40 of that players own moves from that point. Draws are fairly common in the game of draughts - especially at the top level of the game. Polish Draughts Equipment Polish Draughts is played on a 10 x 10 chequered board with 20 black pieces and 20 white pieces. The pieces start on the black squares of the four rows nearest to the players. Play The game is played in a similar fashion to English Draughts but the pieces move and capture in an extended fashion. Crowned pieces are called Queens. The following are the additional rules: Un-crowned pieces can only move diagonally forwards but can capture diagonally forwards AND backwards. A Queen moves by diagonally traversing any number of unoccupied squares.

Likewise, when capturing, a Queen can travel over any number of unoccupied squares before and after hopping the piece. Capturing is compulsory and where there is a choice, the move that captures the greatest number of pieces must be made. Captured pieces are not removed from the board until the end of a move. Any pieces which have been captured but not yet removed cannot be hopped over again during the course of the move - dead pieces form an impassable barrier. A piece is only crowned if the piece finishes the move on the final square. So, if a piece moves onto and off the final row during the course of a capturing move, and does not finish on the final row, it is not crowned. Competitions In competitions, to reduce the chance of draws and make the opening moves less predictable, a "three-move ballot" scheme is usually adopted. A number of opening sequences of three moves are written on cards and a card is selected at random to start the game. The game then proceeds with white playing the fourth move. Once the game is finished, players swap sides and play a second game with the same starting card. The player who achieves the best result over the pair of games is the winner. How To Play Checkers - Standard U.S.

Rules How To Play Checkers - Standard U.S. Rules How To Play Checkers - Standard U.S. Rules Jamie Grill/The Image Bank/Getty Images By Erik Arneson Updated October 20, 2016. Checkers, called Draughts in most countries, has been traced back to the 1300s, though it may indeed stretch further into history than that. These are the standard U.S. rules for Checkers. How to Play Checkers is played by two players. Each player begins the game with 12 colored discs. (Typically, one set of pieces is black and the other red.) The board consists of 64 squares, alternating between 32 dark and 32 light squares. It is positioned so that each player has a light square on the right side corner closest to him or her. Each player places his or her pieces on the 12 dark squares closest to him or her. Black moves first. Players then alternate moves. Moves are allowed only on the dark squares, so pieces always move diagonally. Single pieces are always limited to forward moves (toward the opponent). A piece making a non-capturing move (not involving a jump) may move only one square.

A piece making a capturing move (a jump) leaps over one of the opponent's pieces, landing in a straight diagonal line on the other side. Only one piece may be captured in a single jump; however, multiple jumps are allowed during a single turn. continue reading below our video 7 Places to Find Inspiration for Crafting When a piece is captured, it is removed from the board. If a player is able to make a capture, there is no option -- the jump must be made. If more than one capture is available, the player is free to choose whichever he or she prefers. When a piece reaches the furthest row from the player who controls that piece, it is crowned and becomes a king. One of the pieces which had been captured is placed on top of the king so that it is twice as high as a single piece. Kings are limited to moving diagonally, but may move both forward and backward. (Remember that single pieces, i.e. non-kings, are always limited to forward moves.) Kings may combine jumps in several directions -- forward and backward -- on the same turn. Single pieces may shift direction diagonally during a multiple capture turn, but must always jump forward (toward the opponent).

A player wins the game when the opponent cannot make a move. In most cases, this is because all of the opponent's pieces have been captured, but it could also be because all of his pieces are blocked in. Tips Checkers (using the U.S. rules) uses the same board as Chess . Many sets come with the pieces needed to play both games. Many different games can be played using the basic 8x8 Checkers board and pieces. In fact, it's not too hard to come up with your own variants. Here's a collection of free games for an 8x8 board that can be played with game pieces you probably already have. What You Need The Standard Laws of Checkers The Standard Laws of Checkers You may print this and show it to others. But, this article will eventually be part of a book that I am writing. So, please do not distribute it widely. Checkers is the only game that I know of, in which the official laws do not tell you how to play the game. They assume that you already know quite a bit about the game.

The following was a letter (of mine) to the editor of the Keystone Checker Review: Dear Editor, I was amused to see that someone had found a missing rule. There are more missing rules than there are rules. "The Standard Laws of Checkers," as supplied by ACF, do not tell us to use an 8x8 board, or even that the pieces move diagonally. But they do tell us how our pieces must be manufactured (turned, not molded). Here are the rules, with my comments in brackets "[]". This will be part of a book that I'm writing. Feel free to use it in KCR. The Standard Laws of Checkers, with [comments by Jim Loy] [Checkers is a board game played between two players, who alternate moves. The player who cannot move, because he has no pieces, or because all of his pieces are blocked, loses the game. Players can resign or agree to draws.] 1. The Official Checker Board to be used in National Tournaments and Official Matches shall be of GREEN & BUFF, two inch squares. The board shall be placed for playing so that the GREEN Double Corners are on the right-hand side of the players.

[The board is square, with sixty-four smaller squares, arranged in an 8x8 grid. The smaller squares are alternately light and dark colored, in the famous "checker-board" pattern. The game of checkers is played on the dark (black or green) squares. In diagrams in most books, the pieces rest on the white squares, for readability. Buff is a kind of tan color.] [Each player has a dark square on his far left and a light square on his far right. The double-corner, mentioned but not defined in the rules, is the distinctive pair of dark squares in the near right corner.] 2. The Official Checkers to be used in National Tournaments and Official Matches shall be turned and round, and of RED & WHITE in color, and of a diameter of not less than one and one quarter inches, nor more than one and one half inches. The pieces shall be placed on the Green squares. [The pieces are indeed Red and White, and are called Black and White in most books. In some modern publications, they are called Red and White. Sets bought in stores may be other colors. Black and Red pieces are still called Black (or Red) and White, so that you can read the books.

The pieces are of cylindrical shape, much wider than they are tall. Tournament pieces are smooth, and have no designs (crowns or concentric circles) on them.] [The starting position is with each player having twelve pieces, on the twelve dark squares closest to his edge of the board. Once again, notice that in checker diagrams, the pieces are placed on the light colored squares, for readability. On a real board they are on the dark squares.] [You can make only one move per turn. You must move. If you cannot move, you lose. The pieces (not kings) move one square, diagonally, forward. Kings can move diagonally, forward or backward. A piece can only move to a vacant square. You capture an opponent's piece by jumping over it, diagonally, to the adjacent vacant square. A king can jump diagonally, forward or backward. A piece, which is not a king, can only jump diagonally forward. You can make a multiple jump, with one piece only, by jumping to empty square to empty square. You can only jump one piece, with any given jump. But you can jump several pieces, with a move of several jumps. You remove the jumped pieces from the board.

You cannot jump your own piece. You cannot jump the same piece twice, in the same move. As will be mentioned in rule 8, jumps must be completed. If you can jump, you must. And, a multiple jump must be completed. You cannot stop part way through a multiple jump. If you have a choice of jumps, you can choose among them, regardless of whether some of them are multiple, or not.] [Note: In the above paragraph, the term "piece" often includes "king." A piece, whether it is a king or not, can jump a king.] [As will be shown in rule 9, when a piece reaches the last row (the King Row), it becomes a King. A second checker is place on top of that one. A piece that has just kinged, cannot continue jumping pieces, until the next move.] 3.At the beginning of a contest the players shall toss for colors. The first move is made by the player having the RED (called BLACK in text books) pieces. Thereafter, the players shall alternate in leading of with RED in each succeeding opening balloted. [The rules mention balloted openings.

In "Three-Move-Restriction" (the most common form of checkers in tournaments), the first three moves (two for red, and one for white) are chosen at random, from a list of accepted three-move openings. This is done with a special deck of cards. After shuffling, one player chooses a card. On the back is a number, one through six. The card is replaced into the deck, the deck is re-shuffled, and another card is chosen. On the front of this card, is a numbered list of five or six openings. The opening chosen is the one with the chosen number from the first card. You will play both sides (Red and White) of that opening.] [In a match, players often do not alternate colors. Instead, a player often follows this scheme: Red-White-White-Red-Red-White... or vice versa. This is done so that one player will not always be the first to play Red (or White) for every ballotted opening.] 4.

At the end of five minutes (if the move has not previously been made) "Time" must be called in a distinct manner by the person appointed for that purpose; and if the move is not completed at the end of another minute, the game shall be adjudged as lost through improper delay. When either player is deaf or partially deaf, a card on which the word "Time" is printed in large letters shall be placed or laid on the playing table when it is his time to move. [Checker tournaments now use clocks, as in chess. The time control is usually faster than that used in chess games. Consult a chess rule book, or a chess player, concerning how to use a clock. Briefly: The clock has two clocks. Your clock runs when it is your turn to move. When you make your move, you press your button, which stops your clock and starts your opponent's clock. You have a given amount of time, to make a certain number of moves. If you fail to make enough moves in the given time, you lose by time forfeit (improper delay). There are secondary time controls, after you have made the correct number of moves.] [There is a red flag on the clock.

When it falls, at 6:00, and you have not made enough moves, you have exceeded the time control.] [The rules don't mention recording your moves. The use of clocks may make recording of moves necessary, as a record of the number of moves made. The numbered board, on the left, will help you record and read moves. Moves are written as from-to (as 11-15 means from 11 to 15). A multiple jump is recorded as just two numbers, unless that pair of numbers is ambiguous, then the intervening squares are shown (2-11-18, for example). Once again, notice that in checker diagrams, the pieces are placed on the light colored squares, for readability. On a real board they are on the dark squares.] 5.When there are two or more ways to "jump", five minutes shall be allowed for the move. When there is only one way to "jump", time shall be called at the end of one minute; and if the move is not completed at the end of another minute the game shall be adjudged as lost through improper delay. 6.

At the beginning of a game each player shall be entitled to arrange his own or his opponent's pieces properly on the squares. After the game has opened (a move has been made), if either player should touch or arrange any piece, without giving intimation, he shall be cautioned for the first offense, and shall forfeit the game for any subsequent offense of this kind. If the person whose turn it is to play touches one of his own playable pieces, he must either play it or forfeit the game. 7. If any part of a playable piece be played over an angle of the square on which it is stationed, the play must be completed in that direction. Inadvertently removing, touching or disturbing from its position a piece that is not playable, while in the act of "jumping" or making an intended move does not constitute a move, and the piece or pieces shall be placed back in position and the game is continued. 8. The "Huff" or "Blow" is hereby abolished. All "jumps" must be completed, and all "jumped" pieces must be removed from the board. [The huff was an old rule, which dealt with a player who failed to jump, when he had the opportunity to jump.

His opponent had the options of (1) forcing him to take back his non-jump and forcing him to jump, (2) letting the non-jump move stand, or (3) removing, from the board, one of the pieces which could have jumped. This third option, was the "huff." After doing that, the player then made his own move. The rules have gone from this severe penalty, to the current no penalty.] 9. When a single piece reaches the crown-head of the board by reason of a move, or as the completion of a "jump", it becomes a king; and that completes the move, or "jump". The piece then must be crowned by the opponent by placing a piece on top of it. If the opponent neglects to do so and makes a play, then any such play shall be put back until the piece that should have been crowned is crowned. "Time" does not start on the player whose piece should have been crowned until the piece is crowned. [I've never heard the king-row called "crown-head." I take it, from the last part of this law, that when using a clock, your move is done when you remove your hand from the piece that you just kinged.

The crowning of it, is part of your opponent's move.] 10. A King, once crowned, can move in any direction as the limits of the board permit. A King can "jump" in any direction one or more pieces, as the limits of the board permit. When a piece is not available for crowning, one must be furnished by the Referee. [The phrase "any direction" means diagonally forward or backward. The phrase "as the limits of the board permit" merely means that you can't jump off the board. As I said in my comments concerning rule #2, a king can only jump diagonally over one adjacent piece at a time, in any of the four diagonal directions. Of course, multiple jumps are possible.] 11. A Draw is declared when neither player can force a win.

When one side appears stronger than the other and the player with what appears to be the weaker side requests the Referee for a Count on moves, then, if the Referee so decides, the stronger party is required to complete the win or show to the satisfaction of the Referee at least an "increased" (instead of the old wording "decided") advantage over his opponent within forty of his own moves, these to be counted from the point at which notice was given by the Referee; failing in which he must relinquish the game as a draw. [This forty-move draw rule requires some checkers expertise, on the part of the Referee. He must determine if a player has increased his advantage. There is no "triple-repetition" rule. So, a player may repeat the position, twenty times (or a hundred times, if the Referee has not been called in). Normally, the players are reasonable enough to agree to a draw, in such a case. There seems to be a loop-hole, in this rule. Technically, a player who does not have any advantage, can refuse to agree to a draw. The player with the stronger position cannot request a 40-move count, at least not according to this law.

So, we could have a repetitious game, that lasts forever. Reasonable people would agree to the draw, or apply the 40-move draw rule, anyway.] [Personally, I think we need a "triple repetition rule," as in chess.] 12. After an opening is balloted, neither player shall leave the board without permission of the Referee. If permission is granted his opponent may accompany him, or the Referee may designate a person to accompany him. "Time" shall be deducted accordingly from the player whose turn it is to move. [I have no clue how this "time" deduction works, with or without clocks.] 13. Anything that may tend either to annoy or distract the attention of an opponent is strictly forbidden, such as making signs or sounds, pointing or hovering over the board, either with the hands or the head, or unnecessarily delaying to move a piece touched. Any principal so acting, after having been warned of the consequences, and requested to desist, shall forfeit the game. [Rule 13 is a catch-all rule to deal with odd-ball situations. Nearly all games and sports have such a rule.

In baseball a player is "forbidden to make a travesty of the game." But maybe my opponent's good moves are very annoying, and should be out-lawed.] 14. Players shall be allowed to smoke during the conduct of a game but care must be exercised not to blow smoke across the board, lest it annoy an opponent. If a player is thus annoyed, he may object to his opponent's smoking, in which case neither player shall be allowed to smoke. 15. Any spectator giving warning either by signs or sound or remark on any of the games, whether playing or pending, shall be ordered from the room during the contest. Play shall be discontinued until such offending party retires. Spectators shall not be allowed to smoke or talk near the playing boards. How to Play Draughts How to Play Draughts Rules of Draughts (Checkers in the US) In the US, the game of Draughts is referred to as Checkers, a game which has become very popular with players of all ages and from all different lifestyles. It has become known as a family game, but there are some players who take the game very serious.

The game is played on a 64 square checkerboard with eight rows of alternating dark and light colored squares. There are two players and each player will begin the game with 12 draughts, each player having their own colour. The players will place their draughts on the three rows of dark squares which are closest to them. The players will then begin playing, making one move at a time. The object of the game is to make it so the opponent can’t move when it comes to their turn. This is done by taking all of their pieces throughout the game, or blocking them so they have nowhere to move. The single draughts can only move in a forward diagonal direction into a square without another piece in it. If an opponent’s piece is in the next square, the player can jump it and capture it, removing the piece from the board. They can only do this if the next square is empty. Players can never jump over their own piece. When a player makes their way all the way across the board to the other player’s side, their piece will be turned into a “King.” When this happens, one of their previously taken pieces will be put on top of the piece which made it to that side.

Once a piece is made into a king, it will be able to move forward and backward, giving it more chances to capture the opponents pieces. A king can jump as many times as it is able to with regards to the necessary squares being unoccupied. However, kings cannot jump over pieces which are the same color as them. As previously mentioned, the game will come to an end once a player can no longer make a move. If both the players can’t move anywhere, the game will end in a tie, or draw. Anyone that wants to play online will be able to find many different gaming sites which allow them to play. They can play against the computer, or play against other online players. There are clubs where players get together in person to compete against each other. Checkers - How To Play Checkers Checkers How To Play Checkers Playing Checkers Checkers is one of the oldest board games in the world. It is uncertain how old the game is, though scholars widely assume that checkers predates chess. Like chess, it is a game of two players in which both sides attempt to eliminate the other's game pieces. There are many variations of the game. There are also many names for checkers.

In England and other parts of the world, it is known as Draughts. The different names and varieties can cause confusion. American checkers is the same game as English Draughts. The distinguishing characteristic of the game is that it is played on a board that is 8 squares long and 8 squares wide. International checkers rivals American checkers in popularity. The international version differs from the American version in the size of the board. It has more than a third more spaces, 100 compared to 64 in the American game. This is because it uses a 10 by 10 board. The Game Board As mentioned, the game board varies from one version to the other. The board is divided into two kinds of spaces. There are the dark spaces, usually black, and the light spaces, usually red. Playing pieces are placed only on the dark spaces. Each game begins with players placing their pieces on either side of the board. Placement follows a standard pattern for each game. There are three lines of pieces. Because they are placed in two rows on the black squares, the two rows are slightly offset. The Playing Pieces Playing pieces in checkers are referred to as "men".

Other names include checkers or draughts, though I will refer to playing pieces as men for the remainder of this article to avoid confusion. Men move diagonally. Men only move one space forward at a time. These pieces cannot move backwards. Therefore, any given move, any given piece can move in one of two directions: forward left or forward right. There are two exceptions to this rule. Jumping An Opponent One, if one of the opponent's men is on the black space directly in front of one of a player's men, that piece can "jump" the opponent's man. This means that the man does not land in the diagonal space adjacent to the space it occupies, but lands instead on the diagonal space directly adjacent to the space occupied by the opponent's piece. In other words, the man moves two spaces forward in a diagonal pattern. The second space must be unoccupied for this to occur. Jumping the man of an opponent is how enemy playing pieces are removed. If a men is jumped, that playing piece is removed from the board. If an opponent's pieces are arranged in a pattern that will allow it, a player may jump as many enemy men as possible before one's turn is over.

In this way, a player may eliminate two or more opponent playing pieces in one move. This is fairly rare and usually does not happen against an experienced player. Being Crowned If one of a player's men is able to make it to the other side of the board, it is said to have moved to King's Row. When this happens, that man is declared a king. The newly dubbed king playing piece is then "crowned". To crown a playing piece, one of the men already removed from the game board must be stacked on the successful men. This makes it appear two high to distinguish it from other playing pieces. When a playing piece is crowned, it may now move either forwards or backwards in any diagonal direction. This is a distinct advantage for a player, because it makes that piece much more dangerous offensively. It becomes the centerpiece for that player's strategy. Flying Kings International Checkers bestows one extra ability on a king. The king not only can move in any direction, either backwards or forwards, but that playing pieces can move as many spaces in any one direction that it chooses. In this way, the Flying King is similar in movement to a Bishop in Chess.

The only stipulation is that, when jumping opponent playing pieces, the Flying King can only eliminate one opponent's man at a time. It can remove multiple pieces in a turn, if it follows the same rules of successive jumps that other playing pieces follow, jumping them one at a time if those pieces are arrayed in such a vulnerable position. The Flying King is not allowed in American Checkers. Winning At Checkers There are two ways a player may win at Checkers. One is complete annihilation. You must eliminate all of an opponent's playing pieces. Second is when one player loses the ability to move a playing piece. This happens when one player's final playing pieces are hemmed in, while the opponent's playing pieces are arranged for defense in depth. At this point, the game is over. Alternate Versions of Checkers The two main versions of Checkers have been mentioned. There are many other versions played around the world. The relative ease of learning the game makes it accessible to players of all ages. The simplicity of the game pieces, which allow for people to play with something as simply as buttons or bottle caps, makes the game playable for people in all parts of the world.

Brazilian Checkers This game is a combination of American and International Checkers. Like American Checkers, the game is played on an 8x8 game board. Like International Checkers, the Flying King rule is in effect. Pool Checkers and Spanish Pool Checkers This version is played like Brazilian Checkers, except for one rule involving flying kings. In this version, if you have two potential moves for a Flying King, a player may choose the sequence which ends with the least number of opponents eliminated. All possible jumps must be made, though. This allows for the player to fore go extra eliminations for a potentially greater advantage later. Pool Checkers is played mainly in the American deep south. In Spanish Pool Checkers, "pool" rules are in effect. Also, a king must make the move which jumps the most kings in play. This game is played in former Spanish colonies found in North Africa and South America. Canadian Checkers This game is played like American Checkers. The difference is the size of the board, which is 12 by 12 spaces large. With 144 usable game spaces, Canadian Checkers greatly increases the number of pieces used. Each side starts with 30 men.

Turkish Checkers Instead of moving diagonally, men move either forwards or side to side. The flying king rule is in effect, though these pieces move like a Rook would in Chess. This game is played in certain parts of the Middle East, specifically Turkey, Syria and Lebanon. Russian Checkers This game is played much like Brazilian Checkers. The difference is that, if a man reaches king's row by jumping another piece, it must move backwards as a king and not a man. This game is played in Russia, as well as by Russian immigrants to Israel. Italian Checkers This game has more alternate rules than all others. Men are not allowed to jump kings in this game. Also, men cannot jump backwards, which is much like standard American Checkers . Italian Checkers has the strictest rules regarding multiple jumps by kings. One must take the most jumps available. Also, in the event of a tie in the number of vulnerable pieces, the king must eliminate the most kings on the other side. If there are more sequences open, the king must use the one which starts with an opponent's king. Rules - Checkers Checkers Rules These are the rules for Standard American Checkers.

These rules are a compilation of the rules given by the references and differences between authors are noted. The American Checkers Federation maintains the standard for the current rules. The Board The checkerboard has 64 alternating light and dark squares. The game is played on the dark squares. Official tournament checker boards are 16 inches wide with alternating green and buff squares. The board should be placed so that there is a light corner square nearest each player’s right-hand side and a dark corner square nearest each player’s left-hand side. Pieces Each player starts out with 12 playing pieces. One player has light colored pieces (called “white”) and the other has dark pieces (called “black” although the pieces may actually be red). Each player starts with their pieces laid out on the 12 dark squares nearest him or her. Official tournament checker pieces are one and one quarter to one and a half inches in diameter. First Move The player with the black pieces moves first. Randomly determine who gets the black pieces first. Use a coin toss (many authors say to “cast lots”). When playing a series of games, the players alternate who gets the black pieces. Time Limits In official games, five minutes are allowed for each move.

In the case where there is only one possible jump available, the player has only one minute in which to make it. The player needs to be made aware that the time limit has been reached. Then, if the player still has not moved after another minute, that player loses the game. Touching Pieces Before the first move is made, either player can adjust the position of any piece on the board. After the first move, no player can adjust any piece without “intimation.” In other words, you just need to say you’re going to adjust a piece before you do it. The player who adjusts a piece without intimation can be warned for the first offence, but will forfeit the game on the second offence. If the player whose move it is touches a piece that can be played, the player must move that piece or forfeit the game. If any part of a playable piece is moved over the angle of its square, the piece must be played in that direction. When the player’s hand is withdrawn from the board, the move is ended. Jumps Pask , p.122, states, “All jumping moves are compulsory.” Every opportunity to jump must be taken.

In the case where there are different jump sequences available, the player may chose which sequence to make, whether it results in the most pieces being taken or not. Hopper , p. 102 and Pike , p. 113 both mention the “huff” or “blow.” Hopper says it is obsolete. Pike says it has been abolished. The idea of the huff was that if a player refused to make an available jump, the opposing player could remove the piece that should have jumped. In modern checkers, all jumps must be taken. Reinfeld does not mention forced jumps in his rules, however, elsewhere in the book, p. 18, he makes it clear that “In checkers, captures are compulsory.” In American checkers, a jump must be made only over an adjacent piece. A piece cannot jump over empty squares. Although no one actually says so, it is strongly implied that single pieces cannot jump backwards. Kings When a player’s piece lands in one of the squares at the far end of the board, its move ends there and it becomes a king. A king is allowed to move or jump in any of the four diagonal directions within the limits of the board.

A king cannot jump over one of the player’s own pieces. Win or Draw A player wins by either capturing all of the other player’s pieces or putting them into a position where they cannot move. A player can also win if the other player resigns or forfeits the game as a result of a violation of the rules. A game is declared a draw when neither player can force a win. Pask, p. 123, says that a draw can be declared any time both players agree to it. Hopper, p. 103, and Reinfeld, p. 181, say that when one side “appears stronger” than the other, the player with the stronger position is required to show a “decided advantage” within 40 of his own moves or else the game is declared a draw. These judgments are to be made by a referee. Pike, p. 113, says that the player with the weaker side may request the 40-move count of the referee. He also says that the requirement is for an “increased” advantage within 40 moves, rather than the “decided” advantage. Pask, p.

123 says that it’s a 50-move rule. He further refines the concept of the “advantage” that must be demonstrated: if neither side has advanced a piece towards the king-row and if no pieces have been removed from the board within 50 moves, the game is a draw. He also adds another set of conditions under which a draw can be declared: “A draw shall be declared if a player can demonstrate that with his next move he would create the same position for the fourth time during the game.” Conduct of Players After it is decided who makes the first move, neither player is allowed to leave the board without the permission from the other player. Pike, p. 144, says that the referee needs to give permission. If a player leaves, that player may be accompanied by the other player, the referee, or a designee. Neither player is allowed to distract the other. Examples include making signs or sounds, pointing, and unnecessary delays when moving a piece that has been touched. Pike, p. 144, says that players are allowed to smoke, but “care must be exercised not to blow smoke across the board.” A player who annoys the other player must be warned.

On the second offense, the player forfeits the game. Conduct of Spectators Spectators are also bound not to distract the players by talking, smoking, hovering over the board, making signs or sounds, etc. A spectator who does so may be removed from the room. Tournaments and Match Games Hopper, p.103, has a rule covering tournaments that does not appear in the other books: “Tourneys played under the straight ‘Knock-out’ style of play shall consist of as many games as are found necessary to eliminate one of the contestants. In the ‘Double Knock-out’ style, both players are penalized a half-life in the event of a continued tie.” Reinfeld, p. 181, says that, “A match between equals, wins and draws to count, should consist of an even number of games.” Unforeseen Disputes Both Reinfeld, p. 182, and Hopper, p. 103, both state that any dispute that these rules don’t cover should be decided by a “disinterested arbiter” who has knowledge of the game and that arbiter’s decision shall be final.

Rules of Checkers | Checkers & Draughts Wiki | Fandom powered by Wikia Checkers & Draughts Wiki Figure 1: the board set for play. Red moves first. The Basics: Moving and Jumping Figure 1 shows the basic starting position of a game of checkers: each player has twelve pieces, arranged on the dark-colored diagonals of an 8x8 square board. This example uses the official ACF colors-- green and buff squares with red and white pieces-- but other federations use different colors. Additionally, most checkers sets sold in the United States use black and red pieces & squares. Whatever color scheme is used, the dark-colored pieces (here, red) move first. Regular checkers ("men") may only move forward one square diagonally (Figure 2), and may likewise only capture ("jump") forward. Moving and Jumping Figure 2: Moving a single piece. Figure 3: A single jump. Figure 4: A multiple jump. Add a photo to this gallery As shown in the figures above (taken from Jim Loy's Checkers Pages ), a legal jump is only possible when the square immediately beyond the opponent's piece is empty.

All jumps are forced in checkers, including jumps capturing more than one piece (Figure 4), though if more than one jump is possible a player may choose which jump to take. The forced-jump rule forms the basis of all tactics in the game of checkers, as it allows one player to control the tempo of the game and thus the position on the board. Promoting Men to Kings Similarly to chess, when a regular man reaches the opposite end of the board (called "kings row"), it is promoted to a king. Kings may move or capture either backwards or forwards, but otherwise behave the same way as men: the "flying kings" rule is not present in standard checkers. If a player promotes a man to a king by way of a jump into kings row, the turn ends as soon as the man is kinged, though the king must continue jumping the next turn if a legal jump is available. The tactic known as the "in-and-out shot" takes advantage of this rule, forcing one side to jump into kings row then immediately out of it, setting up a series of jumps for the other side. Kings vs. Men: the upper-right and lower-left pieces have been kinged.

In diagrams involving positions with kings (Figure 5), the king is generally represented by an extra mark (in some sets, the physical pieces have a crown on one side to indicate kings), though in tournament play a king is formed by stacking one piece of the same color on top of another. Kings are extremely valuable in most positions due to their flexibility, and often the chance to king a piece first is sufficient advantage to win a game. Alex Cramer Dominoes - Testimonials Testimonials 800-834-3051 How To Play Dominoes DOMINO RULES ABOUT YOUR DOUBLE 6 DOMINO SET The set consists of 28 dominoes. There are 7 doubles (same number on both ends from double blank to double six) and 21 singles (different numbers on both ends or a number and a blank). FUNDAMENTALS OF DOMINOES There are countless different domino games and within each game, there are many variations of play available. The purpose of this set of rules is to get you started with a few simple and popular games. Later, we'll give you reference information for finding many other games you would enjoy.

One of the wonderful things about dominoes is that anyone can learn the basics very quickly, but as you play and progress, you will find many additional levels of the game and as your experience and skills develop, you will become a more and more formidable player. Get started with these simple games and you will find yourself getting smarter every time you play. Dominoes is a good game for your brain. NUMBER OF PLAYERS Two to Four people can play the games we'll show you here. If Four are playing, each person can play individually or you can group into two teams. MATCHING The basis of most domino games is to lay down a domino next to another domino so that the numbers (or blanks) on adjacent dominoes match each other. The first domino played is call the "set". It could be anything, but here is an example Singles dominoes are placed on the table making a line of play. Double dominoes are played across the line of play TURNING FOR CONVENIENCE Although you normally play in a line, if you run out of table space, you can play a domino at a 90 degree angle to give yourself more room.

And then further play continues in a linear fashion from either end. WHO DRAWS FIRST? WHO PLAYS FIRST There are variations, but here is a starting point:Turn the dominoes upside down on the table and mix them around. Then have each player draw one domino. The player who draws the highest domino (based on total number of dots) will draw first and also make the first play of the game. Now return those dominoes to the table and mix them again. Now draw the dominoes for the playing of the hand. The person who won the right to play first draws first. Each player may draw all the dominoes for the hand or you can go around the table with each player drawing one domino until all have the dominoes needed to start play. Each player places the dominoes on their side with the back facing the other players so they cannot see which dominoes their opponents are holding. THE PLAY Each player in turn lays down a single domino according to the rules of the game being played. Play proceeds clockwise around the table. If a player has a playable domino, he must play it when his turn comes. You cannot hold back a playable domino for strategic reasons.

GAME #1: BLOCK This is the simplest domino game. Numbers of players: 2 to 4 The Objective: Get rid of all the dominoes in your hand The Set-Up: After the shuffle, with two players, each player draws seven dominoes.With three or four players, each player draws 5 dominoes. The remaining dominoes stay face down on the table and are available to be drawn by each player during play. (These remaining dominoes are called the boneyard) The object is simply to get rid of all the dominoes you hold. Whoever does this first wins the hand.At the same time, each player tries to block the other player so he cannot make a play. The Play: Players take turns going first in each game. When a player is first, he may place any of his dominoes face up on the table to start play.The first domino played is called the "set". After the set, each domino must be placed next to a matching domino. Singles must be played end-to-end. Doubles must cross singles.

Plays can be made on either end of a single domino and on both sides of a double domino, but not on the ends of a double. If a player does not have a play, he is blocked and he passes that turn. He may not draw from the boneyard. Play continues around the table until…. Ending the Game, Scoring: ...one player places his last domino. At that time, he calls "domino." The other players turn up all the dominoes remaining in their hands and count the dots. The total of the dots on the unplayed dominoes of the other players is the score of the winning player for that hand. OR All players still have dominoes in their hands, but none of them can make any play. When this happens, all players turn their dominoes face up and count the total number of dots. The player with the lowest number of dots wins the hand and receives a score equal to the total number of dots on his opponents' unplayed dominoes.

(Scoring variation…Winning players score is equal to the total number of dots on his opponents' unplayed dominoes minus the number of dots on the dominoes he is holding at the end of the game) Breaking a tie: In case of a tie, the player holding the single domino with the lowest total count is the winner. Winning the Game: With each hand, you accumulate points. Before you start, and depending on how long you want to play, set a number (say 100 or 200) and the first player to reach that total score wins the game. GAME #2: DRAW This is a little more sophisticated version of "Block." Everything is the same except when a player cannot place a domino, he must draw dominoes from the boneyard until he gets one that he can play. All the rest of the game remains the same. The limitation here is that in a 2-player game, the last two dominoes in the boneyard may not be drawn and in a 4-player game, the very last domino in the boneyard may not be drawn.

The play, ending the game and scoring are all the same as in "Block" Some simple strategy notes for Block and Draw: Look at the dominoes you hold and try to play them in such a way as to set yourself up for plays on your next turn. If you have lots of 2s, try to play a 2 so you will be able to match it the next time around (if someone else doesn't get to it first). Since you know all the dominoes in the double 6 set, you can deduce what dominoes your opponents might be holding by observing which dominoes have been played and which you hold in your hand. Winning the Game: Before you start, and depending on how long you want to play, set a number (say 100 or 200) and the first player to reach that score wins the game. GAME #3: MUGGINS This is a simple game in which you can score points every time you play a domino. Number of players: 2, 3 or 4 may play. If 4 are playing each may play individually or you may create two teams of two players each. The Objective: To outscore your opponents.

You score by adding up the count of dominoes at the ends of the layout after each play. (explained below) The Set-Up: Turn all dominoes face down and mix them. Each player draws 5 dominoes and sets them up so the others cannot see them. The Play: As in the "Block" game above, dominoes must be played so their ends match. Dominoes are laid end to end except doubles which are laid across the line of play. As in "block", you cannot play on the ends of a double once it is placed. Play proceeds clockwise around the table. How to score: In Muggins, you can score each time a domino is placed as well as at the end of the game. The object is for the open ends of the dominoes to be a multiple of 5. For each multiple of 5, you score one point. Here are some examples: Open ends are 1 and 4, count is 5, score one point Count both ends of the double 6. Open ends are 6, 6 and 3, count is 15, score is 3 points.

(also note above that the open ends of the double 5 are not counted. A double is only counted when it is on the end of the line of play) Counting the score after each play When a player makes a score after placing a domino, a scorekeeper notes the score at that time. The running score can also be kept on a counter or cribbage board. Drawing from the boneyard If a player cannot place a domino, he draws from the boneyard until he can make a play. In a two-person game, all but two of the dominoes in the boneyard may be drawn In a three or four-person game, all but one of the dominoes in the boneyard may be drawn. Ending the hand The first player to use all his tiles calls "domino" and this ends the hand. If no player can play his last domino and the boneyard has been depleted down to one or two dominoes (see "drawing from the boneyard" above), the hand is over.

Scoring at the end of the hand When the hand is over, the player (or team) with the lowest number of dots on their remaining dominoes receives additional points based on the number of dots in the opponents hands. For every multiple of 5 dots in the opponents hands, the winner receives one point. For a count of 1 or 2 above a multiple of 5, there is no additional score. For a count of 3 or 4 above a multiple of 5, round up to the nearest 5. For example… Opponents dot count is 5, score 1 Opponents dot count is 7, score 1 Opponents dot count is 8, score 2 Opponents dot count is 12, score 2 Opponents dot count is 18, score 4 Ending the game, winning: Keep playing the hands until one player or team has 61 points. That ends the game. Want to play longer? You can set the game ending score at 100 or 200 or whatever you would like. Variations on Muggins Variation #1 In the basic game, you cannot make plays off the ends of doubles, but only off the sides.

In this variation, you are allowed to play off the ends of the first double that is played. Variation #2 If a player places a domino that would result in a score (a multiple of 5 on the ends of the dominoes played), but does not realize it, then another player can call "Muggins" and will receive that score. GAME #4: FIVE-UP OR ALL FIVES This game originated on the West Coast and is played widely and in tournaments there, but is also well known across the country. Number of Players: Like Muggins, it can be played with 2, 3 or 4 players. If played by 4, each can play individually or you can create two teams. The Objective: Outscore your opponents. As in Muggins you score by adding up the count of dominoes at the ends of the layout after each domino is played. The Set Up: Each player starts with 5 dominoes. See above regarding "Who Draws First, Who Plays First." The Play: The primary difference between Five-Up and Muggins is that the rules for placing of the dominoes are somewhat expanded from the previous games.

As explained above, dominoes are played in a linear fashion with the number of dots matching the adjacent domino. Count is 4 + 6 = 10 Score 2 points Doubles are played at a 90 degree angle to the line of play. Count is 4 + 2 = 6 No score since not a multiple of 5 Each end of a single domino may be played on only once, and then the numbers on that domino are "cut off" for scoring purposes. Only score based on the dots at the ends of the line of play. Count is 3 + 4 = 7 No score since not a multiple of 5 A double may be played on both sides and both ends before it is cut off The original 5-5 is cut off. The count is 2 + 4 + 1 + 0 = 7 (no score since not a multiple of 5) After a double is played on in this way, you can continue to build along the new line of play. This creates many more possibilities for play. Scoring is the same as in Muggins. Count the open ends of the dominoes that have been placed.

If the count is a multiple of 5, divide by 5 and that is your score. Here is an example. Open ends are 6 +5 + 4+ 0 = 15 Score 3 points. Ending the Game, Winning: The game ends when any player places his last domino.At that point, that player (or team) adds to its score based on the number of dots on the dominoes in the opponents' hands. (when playing in teams, you do not add the number of dots remaining in your teammate's hand) Here are the rules for this process. For every multiple of 5 dots in the opponents hands, the winner receives one point. For a count of 1 or 2 above a multiple of 5, there is no additional score. For a count of 3 or 4 above a multiple of 5, round up to the nearest 5.

For example… Opponents dot count is 5, score 1 Opponents dot count is 7, score 1 Opponents dot count is 8, score 2 Opponents dot count is 12, score 2 Opponents dot count is 18, score 4 If the game is blocked (all players still have dominoes, but nobody can make a play), the game ends and the player (or team) with the lowest number of dots on the dominoes held collects points (based on the formula above) based on the dominoes in the opponents hands. Game is over when one player or team reaches a total of 61 points. BEYOND THE BASICS Here are some thoughts and resources for your further consideration. The very best writer on dominoes and domino strategy we have ever known is Dominic C. Armanino. Unfortunately, all the books he wrote are out of print, but you can still obtain some of them through Amazon. His classic is called "Dominoes…Five-Up and Other Games Including Official Rules and Odds." This book explains the Five-Up game beautifully and in detail and then walks you through many strategic considerations that will help you to be a better player.

It was published in paperback under the Tartan Imprint and by David McKay Company. If you are into this game, you'll enjoy these books. Another good title from him is "Popular Domino Games" published by Van Rees.While not as extensive, it does give clear instructions for a number of good domino games.

Question: In a standard game of draughts with how many playing pieces does each player start the game?
Answer: 12