Everything about VS, VSOP, XO, Napoléon Cognac? Discover Cognac | Cognac Expert: The Cognac Blog about Brands and Reviews of the french brandy Apr 09, 2013 in What is Cognac? When you start discovering Cognac, one of the first things you notice is that each bottle has a different rating – and the most common of these are VS, VSOP and XO Cognac. But what does this actually mean? And what about blending – how does that work? Okay, so let’s start at the beginning, and discover exactly what these (sometimes confusing) terms actually mean: VS Cognac : This stands for ‘Very Special’ or alternatively, ✯✯✯ (three stars) means exactly the same. Cognacs of this quality are where the youngest brandy in the blend is aged at least two years in oak casks. VSOP Cognac : Meaning ‘Very Special Old Pale’ or actually, officially according to the BNIC , Very Superior Old Pale. However, in most quarters it’s referred to as Very Special Old Pale.

A VSOP Cognac is where the youngest brandy in the blend is aged for at least four years in barrels. However, in general, the average age of Cognacs in a VSOP blend might well be much older than this. But it’s the youngest brandy within that determines the actual quality of the Cognac. So even if most of the Cognacs are much older, the addition of one brandy that’s younger than six years will mean that the blend will officially become a V.S.O.P. The origins of the expression VSOP dates back to an order from the British Royal House in 1817. They required what was then termed a ‘Cognac Pale.’ In other words, a Cognac that’s not sweetened or coloured by the addition of sugar and/or caramel . At that time it was very common to take advantage of using such additives. So, with this order from Britain was born the term VSOP. Interestingly, when the Cognac culture first became popular, and before the terminology that we use today came to be, the drink was either referred to as simply, Cognac – or Cognac Eau de Vie.

XO Cognac : meaning ‘Extra Old’ In an XO Cognac, the youngest of the brandies within is aged for a minimum of six years. However, they might well be much older, with the average brandy in an XO Cognac being upwards of 20 years old. And it’s important to note that this grading and aging is set to change as from April 10th, 2016, when the minimum age for any brandy within XO Cognacs will change to 10 years. The expression, XO, was used for the first time in 1870. Okay, so the above are the basic gradings of Cognac. But there are other expressions used, so let’s take a look at what these are. Other Cognac ratings – Cognac Napoleon Officially a Cognac that’s described as a Napoleon is equal to XO in terms of minimum age. However, these are normally marketed as an in-between of a VSOP and XO Cognac. – Extra This is a Cognac that’s at least 6 years aged in barrels. This rating is usually older than a Napoleon or an XO.

– Vieux A Cognac marked as such represents a grade between the official grades of VSOP and XO. – Vieille Réserve This is more or less like an Hors d’Age; a grade beyond XO (see below). – Hors d’âge Officially, the BNIC states this as being equal to an XO. However, in reality it’s actually used to communicate a very high quality product; one that’s beyond the official age scale. The literal translation of Hors d’age is ‘beyond age.’ These specifications are all overseen by the French agricultural ministry. Because of the close relations between Cognac and the United Kingdom, lots of the words and expressions used have British origins. However, although the above explains the official designation of the various terminology, this doesn’t necessarily make them easy to understand. The reason for this difficulty in understanding is that, for example, there are producers that offer relatively old VS Cognac, whilst there are others who’re more interested in having the cheapest VS. So, for instance, there are VS Cognacs that could well be marketed as an XO – after all, being aged for six years is not long for a Cognac.

Add to this the fact that some Cognac houses don’t use the expressions of VS, VSOP and XO at all, choosing instead to use Napoléon or Hors d’Age, and you can begin to see why understanding the age of a Cognac can become pretty complicated. in general, and to make it as simple as possible to understand, a VS is anywhere between 2-5 years of age, a VSOP between 5-10 years, a Napoléon is somewhere between a VSOP and an XO (so around 8-20 years), and an XO can be everything… (but older than the others, naturally). The blending of different cognac ages Blending different ages of Cognacs is what determines the grade and quality of the finished bottle of Cognac. And it doesn’t matter in what proportions these Cognacs are blended, it’s the youngest one in the blend that determines the grade. So, for example, you might find that large producers blend some drops of a very, very old and rounded Cognac with a small amount of middle aged Cognac, and then fill the bottle with a relatively young Cognac.

They can then market the bottle as an XO (of course, the youngest Cognac must still be older than the required 6 years to be specified an XO). And naturally, the larger houses have an advantage when it comes to their choices of eaux-de-vie , simply due to their contracts with various winegrowers and extensive stocks within their cellars. Blending Cognac in such a maner provide the producer with various advantages: 1. Money: Using young Cognacs makes the production less cost driven 2. With a wide age range of different eaux-de-vie, the master blender can reproduce the required flavour profile again and again. Of course, doing this will provide a quality of a Cognac that is mass-produced. in some cases, the flavour profile can be slightly flat, and the finish might be short, spicy or even unpleasant – worst case scenario being like cheap brandy. But the single vineyard Cognacs (also known as single estate Cognacs) have a completely different approach. For instance, a master blender creating such a product might use 23 to 27 year old Cognacs for blending an XO. And you really can tell the difference.

Using this method, reproducing the flavour profile again and again is difficult, and requires great skill. But the resulting Cognac is worth it, with a rich, complex aroma and usually having a long, wonderfully pleasant finish. Because of this, it makes it more or less impossible for a mass producer to create a truly great Cognac – simply for the fact that it would be too expensive, and that the quantities are limited so unsuitable for mass production. French Brandy Reviews, Ratings and Facts - Best French Brandy | Tastings Video About French Brandy Cognac is the best known type of Brandy in the world, a benchmark by which most other Brandies are judged. The Cognac region is located on the west-central Atlantic coast of France, just north of Bordeaux, in the departments of Charente and Charente-Maritime. The region is further subdivided into six growing zones: Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Bois Ordinaries, Borderies, Fins Bois, and Bons Bois. The first two of these regions produce the best Cognac and will frequently be so designated on bottle labels. Cognacs labelled Fine Champagne are a blend of Petite and Grande Champagne.

The primary grapes used in making Cognac are Ugni Blanc, Folle Blanche, and Colombard. The wines made from these grapes are thin, tart, and low in alcohol; poor characteristics for table wines, but oddly enough, perfect for making Brandy. Cognac is double distilled in pot stills and then aged in casks made from Limousin or Troncais oak. All Cognacs start out in new oak to mellow the fiery spirit and give them color. Batches that are chosen for long-term aging are, after a few years, transferred to used, or "seasoned," casks that impart less of the oak flavor notes while the Brandy matures. Virtually all Cognacs are a blend of Brandies from different vintages, and frequently, different growing zones. Even those from single vineyards or distilleries will be a mix of Brandies from different casks. As in Champagne, the production of local vineyards is sold to Cognac houses, each of which stores and ages Cognacs from different suppliers and then employs master blenders to draw from these disparate Brandies to create continuity in the house blends.

Because there are no age statements on Cognacs, the industry has adopted some generally accepted terms to differentiate Cognacs. It is important to note that these terms have no legal status, and each Cognac shipper uses them according to his own criteria. V.S./V.S.P./Three Star: (V.S., very superior; V.S.P., very superior pale) A minimum of two years aging in a cask, although the industry average is four to five years. V.S.O.P.: (very superior old pale) A minimum of four years cask aging for the youngest Cognac in the blend, with the industry average being between 10 and 15 years. Armagnac is the oldest type of Brandy in France, with documented references to distillation dating back to the early 15th century. The Armagnac region is located in the heart of the ancient province of Gascony in the southwest corner of France. As in Cognac, there are regional growing zones: Bas-Armagnac, Haut Armagnac, and Tenareze. The primary grapes used in making Armagnac are likewise the Ugni Blanc, Folle Blanche, and Colombard.

But distillation takes place in the unique alambic Armagnacais, a type of column still that is even more "inefficient" than a typical Cognac pot still.The resulting brandy has a rustic, assertive character and aroma that requires additional cask aging to mellow it out. The best Armagnacs are aged in casks made from the local Monlezun oak. In recent years Limousin and Troncais oak casks have been added to the mix of casks as suitable Monlezun oak becomes harder to find. Most Armagnacs are blends, but unlike Cognac, single vintages and single vineyard bottlings can be found. The categories of Armagnac are generally the same as those of Cognac (V.S., V.S.O.P., X.O., etc.). Blended Armagnacs frequently have a greater percentage of older vintages in their mix than comparable Cognacs, making them a better value for the discerning buyer.Up until the 1970s, portable alambic Armagnacais mounted on two-wheel carts were hauled among small vineyards in Armangnac by itinerant distillers called bouillers de cru.

These traveling stills, alas, have mostly given way to larger fixed-in-place setups operated by farmer cooperatives and individual operators. French Brandy is the catch-all designation for Brandy produced from grapes grown in other regions. These Brandies are usually distilled in column stills and aged in oak casks for varying periods of time. They are frequently blended with wine, grape juice, oak flavorings, and other Brandies, including Cognac, in order to smooth out the rough edges. Cognac-like quality designations such as V.S.O.P. and Napoleon are frequently used, but have no legal standing. Top Picks and Reviews for French Brandy Drouet et Fils Cuvée Ulysse XO Grande Champagne Cognac Deep copper color. Interesting aromas of cashew nougat, dried fruits, leather, and floral honeycomb with a satiny soft, fruity-yet-dry medium-to-full body and a long, chocolate orange peel, creme brulee, tropical fruit, and Asian spice nuanced finish. A lively and elegantly flavorful XO Cognac that is sure to please both Cognac novices and connoisseurs.

$124.99 Cognac - Beer, Wine and Spirits products Cognac An opportunity to develop the brand management team for Atom Supplies Ltd..... Cognac Email Words by: Simon Difford Cognac is a fine French brandy (eau-de-vie) from the region that surrounds the little town of Cognac in southwest France. Like champagne, its mere name suggests luxury and indeed it is the undisputed king of all brandies. The Cognac region sits at the northern end of the Aquitaine basin plains 120km (75 miles) north of Bordeaux, 80km (50 miles) from the Atlantic Ocean and 483kms (300 miles) south of Paris. To the west it borders the Gironde estuary while the Massif Central foothills lie to the east. This is a picturesque part of France with rolling countryside, tree groves and the Charente River meandering across the region, along the way fed by the Né, Antenne and Seugne rivers. The climate is mild with an annual average temperature around 13°C (55°F).

Its northerly situation meaning that the grapes ripen slowly and evenly so generation the right balance of fruit and acidity required for distillation. Cognac was one of the last areas in France to distil brandy but the region had long been involved in international trade and from as early as the 5th century was a major producer of sea salt for preserving fish. The region's grapes produced inferior wines but these acidic wines proved to be excellent for distillation. It seems likely that the first eau-de-vie were distilled for use in fortifying wines, and sent down the Charente river to the Atlantic ports. The region's brandy quality improved dramatically with the introduction of double-distillation, developed by one Marron seigneur de la Croix, later known as the Chevalier de la Croix-Marron, who retired from military service to his property in Segonzac, in the heart of the Cognac region, in 1610. Another development came from the discovery that extended storage periods of the brandy in oak casks also dramatically improved quality.

Two casks of eau-de-vie were delivered to the Renorville Monastery but only one was tapped and the other stored away until the occasion of Bishop of Saintes' visit to the monastery some 15 years later. The monks discovered that a significant share of the brandy had evaporated and that the normally colourless brandy had taken on an amber hue. The brandy was noticeably smoother and more palatable. The better quality brandy produced by double distillation and aging drove demand and the start of serious production with the first written reference to the name 'Cognac' being applied to the region's brandy in 1638. The Cognac region has been recognised as an Appellation of Origin since 1909 and production and marketing of cognac are tightly controlled under French Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée rules established in 1938. The delimited cognac appellation covers a total area of over one million hectares (1,095,119 ha), but of that only 79,636 ha is actually under vineyard with approximately 95% of those vineyards, some 6,200, used for cognac production.

Cognac sub regions The Cognac region is divided into six sub-regions (crus), reflecting variations in climate and soil as described by the geologist Henri Coquand in 1860. These sub-regions which were ratified by decree in 1938. As a general rule, the finest have more chalk in their soil and are at the centre of the region with the most regarded region, Grande Champagne, having only a very thin layer of top soil over solid chalk so the vine routes have to force their through the chalk to find water. Unlike in other winegrowing regions, irrigation is not permitted in the Cognac appellation (expect for the first year after planting). The Crus received their names when the local forests were cleared at the beginning of the 19th century, hence the reference to woods in some of the area names. In order of importance these are Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois (fine woods), Bons Bois (good woods) and Bois Ordinaires (ordinary woods).

The biggest houses only use grapes from the first four regions (Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies and Fins Bois) to produce their cognacs and only a small vineyard area remains in the last two regions (Bons Bois and Bois Ordinaires), with the little wine that is produced only used by small family producers and for the production of Pineau des Charentes. Even in Fin Bois a lot less than one-sixth of the cultivatable land is under vine. This is in stark comparison with Grande Champagne and Borderies where over half the land is covered by vineyards. Grande Champagne (13,450 Ha, 33,200 acres) The top (premier) cru centres on the town of Segonzac and spreads out north and east. Champagne cognac has nothing to do with champagne sparkling wine, which is made many miles away, but their shared name probably comes from the Latin 'campania', which means broad, rolling, open countryside. Fine Grande Champagne - is a term that can only be applied to Cognacs made from grapes grown in Cognac's Grande Champagne region.

Petite Champagne (15,870 Ha, 39,200 acres) To the south of Grande Champagne, and extending west of Segonzac, this is the second finest cru. Fine Champagne Cognacs must be made only from a blend of Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne, with at least 50% of the blend coming from Grande Champagne. Borderies (4,070 Ha, 10,000 acres) Meaning 'edges', Borderies is the smallest, and due to its geography, the coolest of the cognac regions. It is also more humid, partly as this region retains some wooded areas. It is located above the Champagne crus, to the north of the town of Cognac. There are few pure Borderies cognacs available and by far the majority produced is blended with cognac from the two Champagne crus. Borderies cognac tends to be nutty as opposed to the Christmas cake-like flavours associated with the Fine Champagnes (made from the two Champagne crus). Floral flavours, particularly violet are also associated with Borderies. Some claim that Borderies matures more gracefully than Grande and Petite Champage.

Fins Bois (33,670 Ha, 83,200 acres) The largest of the cognac regions surrounds the first three crus. The name means 'fine woods' since when the vines were planted much of this area was wooded. Fins Bois is favoured for producing younger blends. Bons Bois (12,260 Ha, 30,300 acres) Meaning 'good woods' although again little of this area remains wooded, Bons Bois surrounds the Fin Bois region. Wine from Bons Bois now rarely finds its way into the cognacs produced by the major houses. Bois Ordinaires (1,530 Ha, 3,800 acres) This cru includes two areas, one to the northwest, including the islands of Oléron and Ré, the other to the northeast of Segonzac. The name means 'ordinary woods' (although the woods have long been cleared) and the vineyards' sandy soil and closeness to the sea impact unfavourably on their wines.

Ordinary by name and ordinary by nature, this is the least important of the six areas and its eaux-de-vie are rarely even considered for use in cognacs made by the major houses. Cognac grape varieties Three kinds of grape are grown in cognac: Ugni Blanc, Folle Blanche and Colombard. Before the phylloxera louse killed off the vineyards at the end of 19th century, Folle Blanche was the most popular grape. Today, due to its resistance to frost, pests and 'grey mould', over 95% of grapes grown in the region are Ugni Blanc. This late maturing variety produces a wine with high acidity and a relatively a low alcohol content. Since the phylloxera plague all the varieties used have been grafted onto various different rootstocks selected according to soil type. Chemical products like Sulphur Dioxide which are routinely added to wines in many other wine regions, would be detrimental to distillation so are not permitted in cognac production so Ugni Blanc's high acidity is vital in helping preserve the wine prior to distillation. A few cognac houses still use some Folle Blanche as they believe it adds elegance and lightness to the blend.

Colombard is now only generally used for Pineau des Charentes. Typically a vine will produce good grapes for around 25 to 35 years, and produce its best grapes aged around twenty. When the vines are too old and tired they are grubbed up and replaced. According to the rules of the cognac appellation the soil must be left to rest for three years before it can be replanted with new vines. The new vines must be left for four summers before the grapes can be used for the production of cognac. Harvesting & pressing Harvesting begins as soon as the grapes reach maturity, typically at the beginning of October and the harvest will generally be completed by the end of the month. Harvesting is now mainly by machines which vibrate the vines causing bunches of grapes to fall into the collection conveyors of the machine as it works its way up a row. Vertical continuous presses are not permitted to be used for the production of cognac and horizontal pneumatic bladder presses are now the norm, although some smaller concerns still use traditional basket plate presses. Each pneumatic bladder press will squeeze around 22 tonnes of grapes per day by inflating a rubber bladder which gently presses the grapes.

Old-fashioned mechanical basket plate presses often squeeze the grapes too harshly causing tannins to be released from the pipes and skins. Each batch of grapes undergoes two pressings with around 80% of the juice released by the first pressing. Fermentation Chaptalisation (the addition of sugar to the grape juice) is forbidden by the Cognac Appellation. The grape juice is fermented using selected yeasts and after 5-7 days a wine of 8.5-9% alc./vol. is produced. Typically five grams of yeast is added per hectolitre in 800 hectolitre tanks. Nitrogen is also added to help start fermentation. Modern fermentation tanks are water cooled to keep the temperature within the fermentation window of 15-30°C. They may also be aerated to speed fermentation. Secondary flavours arising from the fermentation process include banana and strawberry. In hotter regions fully ripe Ugni Blanc grapes produce wines of 10-11% alc./vol. but even with global warming this is rare in the cognac region and the ideal strength for cognac distillation is 8.5-9% alc./vol. when the grape is more acidic.

Most cognac houses will not distil wines which are over 9.5% alc./vol.. The stronger the wine, the more challenging the job of the distiller. Cognac distillation Cognac distillation is tightly controlled by the terms of the appellation. The wine is held in large storage tanks to await distillation, which usually starts at the beginning of November and continues day and night until that vintages wine has been distilled. This process must be completed before 31 March, a rule originally introduced to insure the oncoming warmer weather did not induce secondary fermentation in wines still awaiting distillation. Modern refrigerated holding tanks which also use inert gasses to prevent oxygenization mean this rule is not as relevant as it once was and several houses are now campaigning for its abolishment. Cognac must be double distilled, with each separate boiling known as 'chauffes'. The copper pot stills (alembics) traditionally used are communally called 'Charentais' but are also known as 'Moor's Head' or Arab's Head' (Tete de Maure) due to the stills heads being shaped like a turban, olive or onion, although occasionally different shapes are used.

The shape of the still affects the distillate: a flat head will rectify (purify) the spirit while a large bulbous head produces a distillate with more impurities. Originally cognac alembics were heated by burning wood and then later coal but today natural gas is the fuel of choice. The appellation dictates that a naked flame must be used to heat the stills so effectively outlawing the use of electricity. The furnaces of Charentais stills are traditionally surrounded by brick with a sturdy iron door on the front through which the fire was stoked. Thus Charentais alembics look as if they are built on brick plinths. Cognac distillation , separating the alcohol from the water in the wine, is a relatively simple process based on the physics of alcohol vaporising at a lower temperature (78.3°C (173°F) than water (100°C (212 °F). However, the cognac distiller's art is a complex one, one that balances gut feel, experience and science.

The distiller must make a judgement between leaving as much of the grape's flavour in the final distillate as possible so running the risk of allowing impurities that may be detrimental to also boil over. Or rectifying the spirit by distilling to a high proof to make a 'purer' spirit and so inevitably lose some of the flavoursome elements which lie in the congers (a collective term for the impurities which include aldehydes, polyphenols and esters). This is the cognac distiller's paradox and it is affected by how much, how quickly and how evenly the still is heated and when the distiller makes the all important 'cut' (coupe). The cut refers to collecting the run of distillate from the sweet spot of the distillation. This is sometimes referred to as the 'middle-cut' or 'heart' but the proportion of the run that that needs to be collected actually tends to be nearer the start of the run. The first vapours that come off the still start at a high alcohol content and this gradually weakens to eventually just water vapour is given off at the end of distillation.

The initial vapours produced are called 'the heads' and these are condensed and directed to a specific holding tank. The distiller must then judge when to start making the cut and divert the distillate to the main holding tank to become cognac. The last part of the run is known as the 'tails' and this must be separated from the cut and stored in a separate holding tank. The earlier this cut is made, so the higher the alcohol strength and the more rectified (refined) the final distillate will be. As explained earlier, with more rectification comes less of the grape's character. For the first distillation (première chauffe), the still used can contain up to 140 hectolitres of wine. Distillation typically takes twelve hours resulting in a final 'cut' distillate known as brouillis with a strength of 28-32% alc./vol.. The brouillis is then distilled a second time, known as the la bonne chauffe (the good heating).

The stills used for la bonne chauffe are of the same design but tend to be smaller with a legal maximum permitted boiler capacity of 30 hectolitres which may only be charged with a maximum of 25 hectolitres of brouillis. The final distillate collected from this second distillation is called eau-de-vie and has a strength of 70%-72% alc./vol.. (The average strength of heads is around 80% alc./vol. and tails 30% alc./vol..) Each distillation takes around twelve hours and after each batch the still must be cleaned, meaning an hour or so delay before the still can be recharged and the next distillation begun. As much as half of the run from the first distillation can be heads and tails and these are redistilled with the next batch of wine. Similarly, the heads and tails from the second distillation may also be added to the next batch of wine, or alternatively added to the next batch of brouillis.

Whether the heads and tails from the final distillation are added to the next batch before or after the first distillation will greatly affect the character of the final distillate producing a more neutral, less characterful distillate if added to the first distillation as in affect some of the wine will be distilled four times. The other major distilling choice differentiating cognac brands is whether the première chauffe is on the lees or not. This simply means whether the wine used to charge the first distillation has been filtered to remove dead yeast cells or not. Distilling with the lees (dead yeast cells) adds complexity while distilling without the lees will produce a cleaner distillate. Brouillis distilled on the lees tends to have a hint of hay when compared to more neutral brouillis distilled without lees. Chauffe-vin, a heat exchanging device which uses heat from the vapour from the still before it reaches the condenser to preheat the wine to be used in the next distillation. The obvious advantage being that this saves energy but detractors shun chauffe-vin as there is a danger of overheating the wine (above 40-45°C) and an increased risk of oxidisation.

The pipe work involved is also difficult to clean so also risking contamination. Thus this is yet another option open to distillers which contributes to differences in the final distillate. On many traditional Charentais alembics the Chauffe-vin is easily spotted as a ball-like apparatus which sits high between the head of the still and the condenser. The large cognac houses only distil a small proportion of the eaux-de-vie they require, instead relying on contracts with the thousands of small farmers (bouilleurs de cru) to produce much of their eaux-de-vie. Having purchased spirit from the small family producers, the large Cognac houses then age and blend the spirit before selling it under their own label. Maturation An eau-de-vie must spend a minimum of two years ageing in oak casks holding between 270 to 450 litres of spirit before it can be termed cognac and the eaux-de-vie. The most common size for modern day casks is 300 litres and some houses now have casks made with their bung holes at the barrel head rather than the side as there is a trend to towards storing casks upright on palettes.

The wood from which these casks are made generally comes from the French forests of Tronçais and Limousin forests (Quersus pedunculata and Quersus sessiliflora respectively). The Tronçais forest, in Allier, provides darker, softer, finer grained wood, which is particularly porous to alcohol while the Limousin forest produces medium grained wood, harder and even more porous. Tronçais oak has less tannins and more lignin so is noted for producing softer cognacs, whereas Limousin oak is sought for its robust flavours as eau-de-vie matured in Limousin oak casks tends to extract more tanins. Very mature oak trees are required, well over 100 years old. The centre, and outside of the felled trunk are not suitable for barrel making so the 'merrains' or planks used are split along the woods grain and then sawn from between the heartwood and sapwood of each log. Only around 20% of a trees timber will be used by the cooper.

The murrains are stacked and left exposed to the elements in open yards for at least three years to allow the young timber's sap to dry and for chemical changes to transform bitter tasting wood cells to ones omitting sweeter vanilla flavours. After seasoning the murrains are cut into staves and highly skilled coopers assemble these into casks by repeatedly moistening and heating the staves to bend them into shape. This process emits a distinctive smell of freshly baked bread. Lastly the casks are toasted in a process known as 'bousinage'. The degree to which the oak is charred will strongly influence the characteristics of the eau-de-vie eventually aged in the cask. Cognac 'cellars' are well ventilated ground level buildings without windows, often with bare earth floors. The ageing process usually begins in new oak casks to add tannins to the brandy. After 18 months or so the spirit is transferred to an older barrel to continue ageing and picking up more subtle flavours from the older wood.

Casks aged between 1-4 years are known as 'meures-meur', those aged 4-10 years are termed 'barriques rouges' (literally 'red barrels'), while those over 10 years old are called 'vielles'. Very old brandies (between 35 and 70 years) are moved into fifty litre glass demijohns when the cognac has reached the full extent of its maturation to prevent the spirit taking on bitter woody flavours and its strength dropping to below 40% alc./vol.. Cellars containing such very old cognacs are called paridis (literally paradise). During ageing, some of the eaux-de-vie evaporates - this approximately 2% loss each year is known as the 'angel's share'. Casks are topped up each year with cognac from the same batch to control oxidisation. The 'angel's share' alcohol vapours feed a microscopic fungus known as 'torula compniacensis' and this fungus covers and blackens the walls of the aging warehouses. Cognac blending Cognac is the result of blending at least two different aged eaux-de-vie together.

These could be the product of two different vintages from the same vineyard or produced from different vineyards on the same year. Some cognac houses are now bottling cognac from a single distillery but this is still a blend of many different vineyards and ages of eaux-de-vie even though they have all been distilled at the same site. Typically cognacs are blended from numerous vintages across many different vineyards and crus. The better the quality of cognac the greater number of eaux-de-vie it is likely to be blended from with X.O. typically blended from at least a couple of hundred different eaux-de-vie. Blending the eaux-de-vie is a highly skilled craft comparable to the 'Master Nose' of a perfume house and Master Blenders serve lengthily apprenticeships before being given the task of maintaining a house's style. There are numerous ways of blending cognacs, and the process often happens gradually over a period of years, as spirits are moved from barrel to barrel and combined. A cognac is sold at around 40% alc./vol. but emerges from the last distillation at 70%-72%.

The eau-de-vie is first reduced to 65% alc./vol. before filling casks for aging to allow better wood extraction and the alcoholic strength will be further reduced by the addition of distilled water (or petites eaux - a mixture of cognac and water) during the ageing period. This tends to happen at approximately six monthly intervals, and is done slowly to allow the blend to marry. The older the cognacs are in the blend, the longer the period of hydration. Some very old cognacs reduce to 40% alc./vol. (or even lower) simply by evaporation from the cask during the aging process. When tasting very old cognacs their long finish (aftertaste) is pronounced. After blending it is common practice to put better quality cognacs back into a well-seasoned cask for a period of six months to allow the flavours will marry and integrate before being bottled.

Cognac additives Many will be surprised and some shocked to learn that permitted additives to cognac include caramel, for colour correction and consistency (as is commonplace with other aged spirits such as whisk(e)y), but additionally also sugar and boiseThis last additive is a dark goo made by boiling wood and reducing the resulting liquid which is used to give the impression of extended wood ageing. The addition of boise is no substitute for the gentle but profound effects of lengthy maturation and the best cognacs are made only from water, grapes and yeast. While the practice of adding caramel and even sugar are both accepted and commonplace (most cognacs have at least 1.5 grams of sugar per litre but must be less than 2% of the total volume), the addition of boise is a frowned upon shortcut. Those cognac houses that do add boise are unlikely to admit to it but the practice is all too commonplace. The addition of boise tends to show itself in a cognac by the oak flavours appearing disjointed. I personally believe that that the image of cognac and its appellation would greatly benefit from the outlawing of boise. This is the one area where the sometimes overly strict cognac appellation laws are too lax.

Cognac quality / age classifications An eau-de-vie must spend a minimum of two years ageing before it can be termed cognac but generally spends two years and three months or two years and six months as eau-de-vie is distilled from November until March but confusingly, a cognac's age is counted from its second birthday, which is deemed to be on 1st April. All parcels of eau-de-vie produced are registered with the Bureau National Interprofessionel du Cognac (BNIC). The BNIC monitor and certify the age of cognacs using the 'Comptes' system where a cognac's age officially starts on the 31st March each year. Thus 'Compte 00' applies to cognacs distilled before 31st March at which time they become 'Compte 0' cognacs. Eau-de-vie distilled after 1st April retains its 00 designation until the following 31st March when it becomes Compte 0.

'Compte 1' are cognacs which have passed their second April 1st, 'Compte 2' cognacs have passed their third April 1st and so on until Compte 10 which obviously applies to a cognac which has passed its eleventh April 1st. There are no official regulations recording the age of cognacs beyond Compte 10. Cognac rules on age statement and quality are further confused by the fact that different producers use the same term for cognacs of different ages and this is not recorded on the bottle as the appellation precludes producers from putting age statements on their labels. One producer's Hors D'age might be 7 years old; another's might be 40 years old. Cognacs in the higher categories tend to be aged very much more than the minimum requirement - cognacs known as Paradis, Grand Reserve or Family Reserve will often be 50-100 years of age. A rule introduced in August 1983 codifies the use of the designations based on the length of ageing of the youngest eau-de-vie in the blend as follows: V.S. or Three Star - This is the youngest and cheapest blend.

The initials V.S. stand for 'Very Special' and the stars are thought to have originally celebrated the sighting of Halley's Comet during a particularly good year and originally indicated age with a star signifying each year of ageing. Only three star is now used in cognac and along with 'V.S.' these now indicate the youngest eau-de-vie in the blend will be at least Compte 2 (2½ years from harvest). V.S.O.P., Reserve or V.O. - The youngest cognac in the blend must be at least Compte 4 (4½ years from harvest). The term V.S.O.P. is now far more communally used over Reserve or V.O. and originated at the House of Hennessy. On October 7, 1817, England's Prince Regent and future King George IV sent an order to Hennessy for a 'very superior old pale' cognac. Thus this style and the V.S.O.P. classification were created. Napoléon - Courvoisier claim that the term Napoleon originated when they laid aside a brandy for Napoleon, who was planning to leave for the USA after his abdication.

Napoleon Cognacs normally sit between VSOP and XO. Legally, Napoléon must be at least a Compte 6 (six and a half years from harvest), but they are often very much older. X.O., Vieux, Hors d'age, Extra - The term X.O. originates with Maurice Hennessy, who created his X.O. (Extra Old) blend of old eaux-de-vie for consumption by close friends and family. Like Napoléon cognacs, legally these cognacs must be at least Compte 6 (six and a half years from harvest) but this set to be increased to ten years reflecting the fact that X.O. cognacs are generally at least 15-20 years old. Vintage Cognac - While it is not permitted to put an age statement on cognac, the rules do allow for vintage cognacs made with eaux-de-vie from a single harvest and that year may be specified on the label. Sadly the production of vintage cognacs remains rare.

Serving & appreciating cognac Cognac is perhaps most notoriously sipped from a large brandy balloon but you will probably enjoy cognac more when drunk from a straighter sided, more wine-like glass. Cognac was originally drunk as a long drink simply diluted with chilled water and I am a huge fan of what is known as the 'Surfer' serve , long over ice either sparkling water, soda, lemonade, tonic water or ginger ale. Cognac is also a versatile cocktail ingredient and generally mixes well with vanilla, ginger, citrus (especially lemon and orange) cranberry and grape juice. Cognac statistics In 2010 cognacs total production volume was 555,000hl with worldwide sales of 12.8 million cases or 153 million bottles and total shipments valued at $1.86 billion. Every second, five bottles of cognac are sold in the world. The global market for cognac is spread between three major geographical zones, the Far East which accounts for 33.2% (4.42 million cases); Europe 30.5% (3.89 million cases) and USA, Canada and Mexico 32.2%.

The U.S. the world's largest single cognac market by volume (3.89 million cases in 2010) while cognac's home French market is relatively small resulting in almost 97% exported. The four main houses, namely Martel, Courvoisier, Remy Martin and Hennessy account for some 80% of the cognac market with the remaining 20% covered by upwards of 300 smaller brands. Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC) Founded in 1946, the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC), or Cognac National Board, is an association representing French growers and producers from the Cognac region. BNIC Miss Charming's Brandy & Cognac Page Miss Charming's Cognac & Brandy Page Basic information for brandy, Cognac, and fortified wines. Brandy & Cognac is wine that has been distilled. The most important thing to know is that all Cognac is brandy, but not all brandy is Cognac. Brandy is made from any fruit anywhere.

That is why you see several flavors of brandy like apple, peach, blackberry, etc. Cognac (cone-YAK) is only made from three grapes grown in the Cognac region of France; Ugni Blanc, Folle Blanche, and Colombard. Cognac is distilled twice then aged in oak casks made from 100 year old Limousin or Troncais oak trees that grow in Cognac. The aging process is very expensive because almost 60% of the Cognac evaporates. When Cognac is aging underground, 60% evaporates. The evaporation in the air is called the Angel's Share. They say that when you visit Cognac, you can actually smell the evaporating Cognac in the air from the casks below. Popular Cognac brands are; Courvoisier (core-VAS-see-A) , Hennessy (HEN-na-see) , Martell (mar-TELL) , and Remy Martin. THE KING OF COGNACS King Louis the XIII produced by Remy Martin is considered the King of Cognacs.

Only grapes from the Grande Champagne region are used and it's aged in barrels that are several hundred years old. It can range in age from 40 to 100 years and it's packaged in a Baccarat crystal bottle. It sells for $1500 or more and in bars across the globe it can sell for $120-$300 a serving. Every Cognac bottle is graded and the grade is put on the label. Maurice Hennessey was the first to begin a labeling system for Cognacs in 1865. The grades include: VS = Very Special also known as three star and aged for a minimum of 3 years. VSOP = Very Superior Old Pale also known as five star and ages for five years. XO = Extra Old aged for six plus years. Cognac Facts Courvoisier is said to be Napoleon’s favorite Cognac. In 1869 graned Courvoisier the title of Official Supplier to the Imperial Court. Grand Marnier is a Cognac- based orange liqueur that was invented in 1880 by Louis Alexandre Marnier-Lapostolle.

Brandy The word brandy comes the Dutch word brandewijn, meaning burnt wine. Brandy has a short stemmed big bowled curvy glass named after it called a brandy snifter. Another taller stemmed glass is used in high end bars called a tulip glass. Spanish missionaries brought brandy to California. The most popular grape brandies are; Armagnac, (ar-mahn-YAK) and Pisco (PEE-skoh) from South America. Armagnac (ar-mahn-YAK) Fine French Brandy from Gascony. Cognac’s only real rival. Comes in Three Star, V.S.O.P, Napoleon, Extra, and Hors d’ Age. Armagnac is a high-end brandy made from grapes in the Armagnac region of France. Armagnac is the oldest distilled wine in France, dating back to the 1300s It is the only true rival of Cognac. Only ten varieties of grapes are authorized to be used for Armagnac.

The most popular fruit brandies are; applejack from America, Calvados (KAL-vah-dohs) apple brandy from France, Framboise (frahm-BWAHZ) raspberry brandy from France, Kirsch (KEERSH) cherry brandy from Germany, Poire (PWAHR) a Swiss pear brandy, and Slivovitz (SLIHV-uh-vihts) a German plum brandy. Pomace Brandy is made from the residue of wine, stems and seeds. The most popular are Grappa (GRAHP-pah) from Italy, and Marc from France. The most popular drinks made with brandy are; Stinger, Brandy Alexander, Apricot Sour, Between the Sheets, and Sidecar. Some bars only serve 1 1/2 ounces and others serve 2 ounces pricing accordingly. Still others turn a brandy snifter on its side and pour until the spirit reaches the rim then sets back upright. Brandy snifters can range from 5 ounces to 23 ounces.

Cognac Drinks Fortified Wines Wine will spoil with time, so brandy was added to wines (fortify) to help preserve them for long sea voyages. Port Wine True Port wine is made in the Douro Valley, which is in North Portugal, however other countries make versions of it. It was invented out of the need to have wine that could survive long sea voyages without spoiling. It was the first fortified wine by adding brandy to it then aged. A proper serving is 2 1/2 -3 ounces. The word Port is short for the name of the port town of Oporto, not Portugal. Port Wine Types - Colheita Ports (Vintage-Dated Tawny Ports) Popular Port wine brands are; Sandeman, Lindemans, and Noval. There is one difficult factor about making Port wine; The vineyards are located on remote, steep slopes that drop down to the Douro River in Portugal. It is by far the most difficult wine-growing region in the world. Sherry Wine Sherry is the English word for the Spanish word Jerez (ze-RES) and "True" Sherry wine comes from Jerez, in Southwest Spain.

It has brandy added to fortify and preserve it. A proper serving is 2 1/2-3 ounces. Making Sherry wine isn’t as cut and dried as making Port wine. With Port wine, winemakers just add brandy to prematurely stop the fermentation of the wine, then age it. Sherry wine is made with the solera system , which is a time-consuming blending of older wines and younger wines little by little by hand while they’re aging in the barrels. The wines are also exposed to air as they’re aging, which is monitored. Popular Sherry wine brands are; Dry Sack and Harvey’s Bristol Cream. Sherry Wine Types Fino is the driest and palest of Sherry wines. It's aged in barrels under a cap of flor yeast to prevent contact with air. Manzanilla (light bodied) Manzanilla Pasada has undergone extended aging or has been partially oxidised, giving a richer, nuttier flavor. Amontillado is first aged under flor yeast then exposed to oxygen. It's darker than a Fino but lighter than an Oloroso. They are dry, they are sometimes sold sweetened.

As of April 2012, but these can no longer be labelled as Amontillado. Oloroso is aged longer than a Fino or Amontillado, producing a darker and richer wine. They come in dry and sweet (cream) and have the most alcohol content of any Sherry wine. Palo Cortado is aged like an Amontillado for three or four years, but develops a character closer to an Oloroso. Jerez Dulce is the sweetest Sherry wine made either by fermenting dried Pedro Ximénez (PX) or Moscatel grapes. Their color is dark brown or black. Cream is sweetened Oloroso. Madeira Wine (ma-DEER-uh) Madeira wine is produced from grapes grown on southern coast of Madeira Island, which is a mountainous and volcanic island about 360 miles west of Morocco in Northern Africa and 540 miles southwest from Portugal. Portugal has owned it since only 1974. If you are American, you should know that Maderia wine was used to toast the signing of the Declaration of Independence July 4, 1776.

At the time, Madeira wine was looked upon as something very magical/special. Madeira Wine Types There are types using Tinta Negra Mole grapes, but they are only aged 3 years and mostly used for cooking. The best types are: Malvasia (also known as Malmsey or Malvazia) Bual (or Boal) Reserve is aged five years. Special Reserve is aged 10 years. Extra Reserve is aged over 15 years. Colheita (or Harvest) are wines from a single vintage. Vintage (or Frasquiera) must be aged at least 20 years. ESTUFAGEM PROCESS In the 1500s, to reach the New World, rocking ships passed through the tropics and the heat baked the Madeira wine giving it a soft yet deep pleasant burnt taste as well as lengthening its shelf life. Soon, pipes filled with Madeira were installed in ship ballasts and sent on tropical voyages. Today, they rock heat it to 60 °C (140 °F) and expose it to levels of oxidation. I wonder how long it took them to figure out that they could just make it back on the island, lol?

Vermouth Vermouth is a fortified white wine that has a spirit added (usually brandy) then aromatized with herbs and botanicals like seeds, plants, flowers, etc. The word vermouth comes from the German word Wermut (wormwood). Fortified wine with herbs roots etc. is believed to have begun in China as early as the Shang and Western Zhou dynastiesin (1250-1000BC). Vermouth Types Dry (white) is dry (without sweetener). Bitter Imbue is new 2010 vermouth made in Portland, OR that is bitter sweet. The most popular drinks made with vermouth are a classic Martini and Manhattan. Popular brands are; Martini & Rossi (Italy), Cinzano (Italy), and Noilly Prat (Noy-ee praht, France). Dubonnet (America) and Lillet (lee-LAY, France) are aperitif wines, but are often used in the place of vermouth in Martinis. The most popular Martini that uses Kina Lillet is from Ian Fleming’s first book, Casino Royale where James Bond asks for a Dry Martini in a deep Champagne goblet.

He says; three measures of Gordon's, one of vodka, half a measure of Kina Lillet. Shake it very well until it's ice-cold, and then add a large thin slice of lemon-peel. Got it? Lillet and Dubonnet are fortified wines similar to vermouth,but are considered separate products. Generally, France produces the best dry vermouth and Italy produces the best sweet vermouth. Spirit FAQs | Twin Liquors Spirit FAQs What do the letters VS, VSOP and XO stand for on Cognac? Within the Cognac industry, there is a system of certification of age. The certificates are based on the length of time that the cognac has spent in oak. VS (Very Special) – is at least two years old. VSOP (Very Superior Old Pale) – also called a reserve and at least four years old. XO (Extra Old) – also called a Napoleon is at least six years old. Most cognac houses will use older than those required by law. Many allow their XO’s to reach a minimum of 20 years in order to reveal their best. What is the difference between Blanco, Reposado and Añejo Tequilas?

Blanco (white) tequilas are not usually aged. These tequilas express the character of the agave in its purest form. Blanco tequilas may also be called “Silver” or “Plata”. Reposado (rested) tequilas are aged a minimum of two months in oak barrels, although they are typically aged between three and nine months. Due to the hot climate, the oak “resting” mellows the flavors and imparts color. Añejo (aged) tequilas are aged in oak barrels for at least a year, although they are typically aged between one and three years. Considerable complexity often develops with the greatest Añejos approaching very fine Cognacs in style. What is the difference between Single Malt and Blended Scotch Whiskies? Single malt whisky is produced at a single distiller and made only from malted barley. Each region has its own particular distinctive style of malt whisky, and it is usually possible to distinguish in which region of Scotland a particular whisky was made.

However, the style of the distiller can also play a key difference in how a whisky tastes.= Blended Scotch whisky is a mixture of any number of whiskies from different grain and malt distilleries. Standard blends will rarely state an age on the label, though the youngest spirit in the blend must be a minimum of three years old. The quality of the blend will owe a lot to the nature of the malt whiskies it contains. What is Vodka? The name originates in Slavic words that translate as “little water”. This is probably the world’s oldest spirit, with documents showing production in Russia going back to the ninth century. Early vodkas were flavored with fruit, spices and herbs to mask the harsh flavors. The technique of charcoal filtering for mellowing and purification was not developed until the eighteenth century. Vodka is a white, fairly neutral tasting spirit. Vodka can be made using a wide range of base materials including cereal grains, potatoes and even grapes. It would be wrong to say that vodka is totally neutral since some trace of the base material flavors always remains and may be an important character of the spirit. What’s the difference between Bourbon & Tennessee Whiskey?

Bourbon takes its name from Bourbon County in Kentucky, where most is produced, although it can be made anywhere in the United States. Bourbon must be made from a mash containing between 51% and 79% corn. If the corn content is higher, the product must be designated as corn whiskey. Bourbon is a straight whiskey that must be distilled at 160 proof (80% alcohol) or less and must be aged a minimum of two years in new charred oak barrels. Usually though, most bourbon is aged at least four years and often longer. Since it is a straight whiskey, no blending is permitted and there are no additives, with the exception of water to reduce the proof. While Bourbon can be made anywhere in the United States, Tennessee whiskey must be distilled only in Tennessee. Tennessee whiskey must be comprised of at least 51% of any grain, although corn is usually used in making Tennessee whiskey. It is made in a similar manner to sour mash bourbon, but Tennessee whiskey also includes an extra step in its production process – the distilled spirit is filtered through maple charcoal in large, wooden vats before aging in order to remove impurities.

This charcoal filtering also imparts a smoky flavor to the whiskey. What’s the difference between Brandy, Cognac & Armagnac? The word Brandy comes from the Dutch word brandewijn, (“burnt wine”). This is how Dutch traders, who introduced it to Northern Europe from Southern France and Spain in the 16th century, described wine that had been “burnt,” or boiled, in order to distill it. Brandy – in its broadest definition, is a spirit distilled from wine or fermented grape juice and aged for at least six months. Brandy is made widely around the world. Cognac – is the most famous type of Brandy in the world, a benchmark by which most other Brandies are judged. The Cognac region is located on the west-central Atlantic coast of France, just north of Bordeaux. The primary grapes used in making Cognac are Ugni Blanc, Folle Blanche, and Colombard. The wines made from these grapes are thin, tart, and low in alcohol; poor characteristics for table wines, but oddly enough, perfect for making Cognac.

Produced only in the Cognac region of France, the wine is distilled twice in traditional Charentais copper pot stills. The finished product is clear and adopts its beautiful amber color after many years in French oak barrels. Under strict French law, cognac production methods and growing areas are clearly defined. The districts in order of quality are: Grand Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois, Bons Bois, Bois Ordinaires. Armagnac – claims a longer history than Cognac, probably having been first produced in the twelfth century. The Armagnac region is located in the southwest corner of France. Distillation takes place in the unique type of column still that is even more “inefficient” than a typical Cognac pot still. The resulting brandy has a rustic, assertive character and aroma that requires additional cask aging to mellow it out. Most Armagnacs are blends, but unlike Cognac where single vintages are produced by few houses, Armagnac single vintages and single vineyard bottlings can be readily found.

Question: Which type of cognac is aged for at least six years and comes between VSOP and XO in aging styles?
Answer: Napoleon