Gold-colored Jewelry That Isn’t Really Gold Gold-colored Jewelry That Isn’t Really Gold From Antique Pinchbeck to Vintage Plated Pieces By Pamela Wiggins Updated August 09, 2016. There are many different types of alloys and plating techniques that have been used through the centuries to simulate gold (and silver , too). In many instances this substitution was purely economic as less expensive materials were sought as alternatives for jewelry making. Other times these simulants served as more durable substances for everyday wear, or traveling jewelry for when security was an issue. Learn more about several different types of antique, vintage, and modern jewelry that simulate the color of gold: Enameled pinchbeck bracelet, Swiss, ca. 1830-40. Jane H. Clarke/Morning Glory Antiques & Jewelry ( 1. Pinchbeck The term pinchbeck refers to an alloy of copper and zinc (in a ratio of about 83% to 17%) used to imitate gold, although it is much lighter in weight and eventually tarnishes. It is named for its inventor, English watchmaker Christopher Pinchbeck, who employed it first in the early 1700s in his business manufacturing watches and watch chains.

The use of pinchbeck was then expanded into articles of jewelry, buckles, and various objets. While the original alloy quite convincingly copied the bright look of gold, Pinchbeck always distinguished pieces made of this substance from the real thing with a marking. However, less scrupulous rivals developed their own gold-colored alloys, which they often tried to pass off as the genuine thing. "Pinchbeck," unfortunately, began to acquire a secondary meaning as "cheap jewelry," or even "counterfeit" due to these shady dealings. It was also known simply as pinch, and sometimes as false gold. Still, it remained popular and was seen as one of the best materials for costume jewelry until the mid-19th century, when it began to be supplanted by rolled gold (see below) and 9K gold along with other gilding techniques or gold and metal alloys. Similor was a similar copper-zinc alloy developed in France slightly later in time. Although it was much cheaper than actual gold, pinchbeck jewelry often showed fine workmanship. Thusly, it was used as "traveling jewelry" by the well-to-do centuries ago.

continue reading below our video How to Turn Your Hobby into a Small Business Rolled Gold Snake Bracelet by Andreas Daub, Germany. Photo courtesy of Jane H. Clarke/Morning Glory Antiques ( 2. Rolled Gold and Gold Filled Rolled gold is a hybrid material made up of a thin layer of gold that's mechanically bonded or heat-fused to one or both sides of base metal (often brass or copper), then rolled out into sheets for use in jewelry manufacture. The thickness of the gold layer can vary, but is generally at least 5% of the total metal weight vs. gold plated (see below), which uses a thinner coating of gold. Patented in England in 1817, it became a prime source for semi-precious and better-quality costume jewelry in the Victorian era. Rolled gold saw renewed surge of popularity in 1920s and 1930s, especially in utilitarian objects such as watches and fountain pens where durability was important but the luster of genuine gold was desired.

English and American 19th-century rolled gold articles might be stamped "Gilt." Marks such as “G.F.” "1/20 12K G.F." or "12 Kt. Gold Filled" indicate a later, 20th-century piece. These later designations indicate that the amount of gold was 1/20th of the total weight, as mandated by law. Rolled gold plate is a more generic term that can also apply to gold-plated materials containing less than 5% gold. 1940s Sterling Sultan Brooch with Gold Wash. Jay B. Siegel for ChicAntiques.com 3. Other Types of Simulated Gold You Should Know: Gold Plated or 14K H.G.E. – Jewelry with an H.G.E. mark, with or without the karat weight of the gold present, signifies Heavy Gold Electroplate. This means that a layer of gold has been joined to base metal through the electroplating process and the gold content is very low. This type of material is often used in modern cubic zirconia rings, as an example. It can look very much like genuine gold.

Gold Wash – Some items with gold coloring are actually marked sterling silver, and the gold is applied in a thin “wash.” This method of producing gold-colored jewelry was especially prevalent during the 1940s when metals were in short supply due to World War II . Other base metals were not available so sterling silver was used instead and the wash was applied to meet demand for gold-colored costume jewelry. Take care in polishing these pieces, as the gold coloring can unintentionally be removed fairly easily. Find out more about identifying gold jewelry: World Wide Words: Pinchbeck Pinchbeck Pronounced /ˈpɪn(t)ʃbɛk/ The more common meaning of the word today, on the rare occasions on which it turns up in print at all, is of something that’s cheap or tawdry. However, those versed in the fields of jewellery, clocks and other objets d’art will know that strictly it refers to an alloy of zinc and copper — so a type of brass — that looks remarkably like gold. Outside these specialist areas, the word’s most common appearance is as a family name, which is only fit and proper, since we are in the area of eponyms here — things named after people.

The man who invented the alloy was one Christopher Pinchbeck, a clockmaker born in Clerkenwell in London, though his shop was at the “sign of the Astronomico-Musical Clock” in Fleet Street. He was also a well-known maker of musical automata such as singing birds. His name probably came from the place called Pinchbeck near Spalding in Lincolnshire; that name is from Old English words meaning either “minnow stream” or “finch ridge” (from which we may deduce the uncertain state of the study of English placenames). He seems to have invented his eponymous metal sometime in the early 1700s, though there’s no contemporary reference and we have to rely on statements by his sons. He created it as a way to make ornaments that looked like gold but were less expensive. There was no attempt at deception here — he clearly labelled the metal for what it was. To start with, it was a respected alternative to gold: jewellers in the eighteenth century used it legitimately to make nice-looking jewellery that could be worn in places in which theft was frequent, such as on stagecoach journeys, without fear of losing valuables.

However, so many jewellers used it for inferior goods, passing off pinchbeck as gold, that the word took on the sense of something that was of poor quality or a cheap imitation. Nineteenth century authors found in the word a neat metaphor for all that is spurious or counterfeit, as Anthony Trollope did in Framley Parsonage: “Where, in these pinchbeck days, can we hope to find the old agricultural virtue in all its purity?” Share this page Jewelry Alloys - NEY Metals & Alloys Jewelry Alloys Quality Alloys to Meet your Needs NEY 4-5 Ingot Jewelry Alloys The Growth of NEY and the Jewelry Industry Merriam Webster describes “costume jewelry” as “Jewelry designed for wear with current fashions and usually made of inexpensive materials“. The fact is that adornment for the body with abundant, inexpensive materials, dates back to ancient times when even seashells were used as “fashion items”. During the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, almost all jewelry was manufactured with precious metals and stones.

When women of the day started to demand a less expensive alternative, manufactures began to produce the simulated look of fine jewelry with “Paste” (a reflective, leaded glass made into stones) and the use of copper alloys. One famous alloy was invented by Christopher Pinchbeck, a clock maker from the eighteenth century. It was basically an alloy of copper and zinc that looked similar to gold. But true costume jewelry, or the more accurate term, “Fashion Jewelry” as we know it today, began in the 20th Century. It all started in NEY’s backyard in New York City with our Casting Alloys: When two World Wars, a stock market crash and a Great Depression forced many to abandon precious jewelry, the manufacturers and designers turned to non-precious alloys and components to create fashion pieces as an alternative. NEY was instrumental in designing and supplying these alloys to the new Power Houses of Costume Jewelry as they began to grow in Manhattan. World War II caused a disassociation from the design studios like, Chanel in Paris, so jewelry designers turned their attention to the US market.

As these historic companies grew, such as Coro (Cohn & Rosenberger), Miriam Haskell and Trifari, they looked to NEY for their raw material alloy needs. During the war, Ney was able to use ration coupons to purchase Tin in order to produce the alloys used in Fashion Jewelry at that time. When those rations dried up for the private industries, NEY designed new casting alloys made from Zinc, which allowed jewelry producers an alternative. That rich history and long standing relationship continued with NEY, even after the giants of the industry, such as Monet, Napier, 1928, Bijou, Coro of Canada and so many others, began to build factories in Providence, Rhode Island and beyond. We were a key supplier of innovative and quality spin cast alloys that allowed these large factories to flourish by producing classic designs, some of which are pieces now being sought after as highly collectible works of art. NEY continued to be that key alloy supplier to the smaller New York City based businesses that were important job shops, manufacturing special pieces for the other firms.

As in all products that must maintain a low cost, most of those companies, both in New York and Rhode Island, began to move their operations to lower cost offshore factories. Ney followed them every step of the way with supporting alloys and new Lead Free formulas, which grew in demand during the 1980’s. Even to this day, NEY is a supplier to prestigious European, Asian and Pacific Rim companies that have refined the craft of producing, high quality, Fashion Jewelry that will one day be accepted as wearable art. NEY has decades of extensive experience creating Pewters, Jewelry alloys and solders for a myriad of uses. We can offer custom formulations to meet your needs. Please contact our sales department for additional information. Featured Product Specifications Lead Free Pewter Alloy with Silver - ENTB 798NENTB 4-5 Ingot Tin: 97-99% with Bismuth and Silver in a proprietary formula. This is a high purity Tin based Lead Free Pewter Alloy, that meets or exceeds most Lead Free requirements. We certify it to be less than 50 ppm Lead Content.

It works well in Spin Cast Rubber or Silicone Molds for designs with thick cross sections or a smooth, polished finish and some malleability. Lead Free Pewter Alloy with Silver - ENT 798NENT 4-5 Ingot Tin: 97-99% with Bismuth and Silver in a proprietary formula. This is a high purity, economical version of our best selling ENTB Alloy. A Tin based Lead Free Pewter Alloy that does not contain Antimony. This is important for some regulations, especially in the European markets. It works well in Spin Cast Rubber or Silicone Molds for designs with thick cross sections or a smooth, polished finish and some malleability. Lead Free Pewter Alloy - R8 (Britannia) 791NR8 4-5 Ingot Tin: 91-93% with Antimony and Copper. This is a Lead Free Pewter, also referred to as a Britannia Alloy that works well in Spin Cast Molds for designs, such as Fashion (Costume) Jewelry, with thin cross sections or fine filigree and maximum detail requiring less malleability and more strength.

Lead Free Pewter Alloy - B7(Gravity Cast) 792NB7 4-5 Ingot Tin: 91-93% with Antimony and Copper. This Lead Free Pewter Alloy is high in Copper to allow it to work well in Open Face, Gravity Pour, Sand and Cast Iron Molds with maximum detail. Has good strength. Lead Free Pewter Alloy - B7 791NB7C 5 lb. Ingot- Cut At Each Notch- approx. 1# Tin: 91-93% with Antimony and Copper. This Lead Free Pewter Alloy is in an easy to handle form. It work well in Open Face, Gravity Pour, Sand and Cast Iron Molds with maximum detail. It has good strength due to the increased Copper content. Lead Free Pewter Alloy - B7 791NB7S 1/4" and Down Shot Tin: 91-93% with Antimony and Copper. This Lead Free Pewter Alloy is in shot form for small crucibles and special melts. Ideal for Trade School Classroom Environments.

It is high in Copper for good strength and works well in Open Face, Gravity Pour, Sand and Cast Iron Molds with maximum detail. Custom Spin Cast Pewter Alloy with Lead - 9244 (92 Metal) 792N9244 4-5 Ney Ingot (100 lb. Minimum) Tin: 91-93% with Lead and Antimony. Balance of Formula is Proprietary. The Original American Pewter Alloy that has been used for Jewelry, Pewter Figurines. It works well in Spin Cast Rubber and Silicone Molds. Contains Lead to reduce porosity and High Antimony for better flow and strength. Custom Spin Cast Pewter Alloy with Lead - D1 792ND1 4-5 Ney Ingot (100 lb. Minimum) Tin: 91-93% with Lead and Antimony. Balance of Formula is Proprietary. An American Pewter Alloy that works well in Spin Cast Rubber and Silicone Molds for castings that are plated. Contains Lead to reduce porosity and Low percentage of Antimony for Malleability and Less Porosity.

Custom Spin Cast Pewter Alloy with Lead - D3 792ND3 4-5 Ney Ingot (100 lb. Minimum) Tin: 91-93% with Lead and Antimony. Balance of Formula is Proprietary. An American Pewter Alloy that works well in Spin Cast Rubber and Silicone Molds for castings that are plated. Contains Lead to reduce porosity and a Moderate percentage of Antimony for strength. Custom Spin Cast Pewter Alloy with Lead - D5 792ND5 4-5 Ney Ingot (100 lb. Minimum) Tin; 91-93% with Lead and Antimony. Balance of Formula is Proprietary. An American Pewter Alloy that works well in Spin Cast Rubber and Silicone Molds for castings that are plated. Contains Lead to reduce porosity and a High percentage of Antimony for better flow and strength. Custom Spin Cast Pewter Alloy with Lead - DM (88 Metal) 789NDM 4-5 Ney Ingot (100 lb. Minimum) Tin: 89-91% with Lead and Antimony. Balance of Formula is Proprietary.

The Most Popular American Pewter used for Collectable Pewter Figurines, Promotional Items, Trophy's, High Fashion Belt Buckles. It works well in Spin Cast Rubber and Silicone Molds. Contains Lead to reduce porosity and a Medium amount of Antimony for better flow and strength. Special Casting Alloy -N37 4-5 Ney Ingot (100 lb. Minimum) Lead: 69-71%, Balance of Formula is Proprietary. A Custom Ornamental Alloy used in the casting of Promotional Items and Costume Jewelry that get plated or E-Coated. Contains Lead to reduce porosity and Medium Antimony for better flow and strength. Special Casting Alloy -A35 4-5 Ney Ingot (100 lb. Minimum) Lead: 66-68%, Balance of Formula is Proprietary. A Custom Alloy used in the casting of Costume Jewelry, Promotional Items and Figurines that get painted or plated. Contains Lead to reduce porosity and Medium Antimony for better flow and strength. Special Casting Alloy -T35 4-5 Ney Ingot (100 lb.

Minimum) Lead: 62-64%, Balance of Formula is Proprietary. A Custom Lead Based Alloy with a low casting temperature for longer mold life. It is used in the casting of Costume Jewelry and Figurines that get plated or glazed. Contains Lead to reduce porosity and Medium Antimony for better flow and strength. Special Casting Alloy - C24 4-5 Ney Ingot (100 lb. Minimum) Lead: 58-60%, Balance of Formula is Proprietary. A Custom Alloy with a very narrow plastic range that will freeze in the mold quickly to capture detail. Contains Lead to reduce porosity and Medium Antimony for better flow and strength. Special Casting Alloy -4015 4-5 Ney Ingot (100 lb. Minimum) Lead: 57- 59%, Balance of Formula is Proprietary. A Custom Alloy used in the casting of Figurines, Belt Buckles that are painted, plated or E-Coated. Contains Lead to reduce porosity and Medium Antimony for better flow and strength. Special Casting Alloy - MC94 4-5 Ney Ingot (100 lb.

Minimum) Lead: 52-54%, Balance of Formula is Proprietary. A Custom Tin based Alloy that has a low melting point for use in RTV molds. Contains Lead to reduce porosity and Medium Antimony for better flow and strength. Type 426 Centrifugal Spin Casting Alloy 592N426 4-5 Ney Ingot (100 lb. Minimum) Lead: 91-93%, Balance of Formula is Proprietary. An Economical Custom Alloy used in the casting of Promotional Items and Costume Jewelry that get plated or E-Coated. Contains Lead to reduce porosity and Medium Antimony for better flow and strength. Type C6 Centrifugal Spin Casting Alloy 592NC6B 4-5 Ney Ingot (100 lb. Minimum) Lead: 91-93%, Balance of Formula is Proprietary. An Economical Custom Alloy used for Belt Buckles, Ornamental Jewelry, small Statues. Type C7 Centrifugal Spin Casting Alloy 592NC7 4-5 Ney Ingot (100 lb.

Minimum) Lead: 91-93%, Balance of Formula is Proprietary. An Economical Custom Alloy used for Promotional Items Type A77 Centrifugal Spin Casting Alloy 589NA77 4-5 Ney Ingot (100 lb. Minimum) Lead: 88-90%, Balance of Formula is Proprietary. An Economical Custom Alloy used for Economical, Decorative items. These Ornamental Alloys are easy to polish and Electroplate. Type C10A Centrifugal Spin Casting Alloy 589NC10A 4-5 Ney Ingot (100 lb. Minimum) Lead: 88-90%, Balance of Formula is Proprietary. An Economical Custom Alloy used for Economical Fashion Jewelry, Ornamental Items, Promotional Items where high weight is desirable for the product. Zinc Spin Casting Silicone Mold Alloy - S1 892NS1 4-20 lb. Kor-Zee Ingot Zinc: Zinc 90-94%. A Lead Free Zinc Alloy that works well in Spin Cast Vulcanized Silicone Molds for designs with thick cross sections or minimal detail.

Contains Proprietary Grain Refiners for improved casting properties. Zinc Spin Casting Silicone Mold Alloy - S1A 892NS1A 4-20 lb. Kor-Zee Ingot Zinc: Zinc 90-94%. A More Economical Lead Free Zinc Alloy that works well in Spin Cast Vulcanized Silicone Molds for designs with thick cross sections or minimal detail. Contains Proprietary Grain Refiners for improved casting properties. Zinc Spin Casting Silicone Mold Alloy - J1 892NJ1 4-20 lb. Kor-Zee Ingot Zinc: Zinc 90-94%. A Lead Free Zinc Alloy that works well in Spin Cast Vulcanized Silicone Molds for designs with thin cross sections or maximum detail. Contains Proprietary Grain Refiners for improved flow into the mold. Lead Free Pewter Alloy with Silver - ENTB Ney Product Code Types of Metals & Minerals - Chilton's Antiques Chiltons Antiques Metals & Materials GOLD Is the most malleable ductile metal which is why it needs other metals and alloys to give it strength. Gold comes in a wide variety of carats. The term 'carat' is the gold content of the metal.

The carats measure the proportion of the pure gold mixed in with other alloys. Gold is available in a wide range of colours from different shades of yellow, white and rose. The difference in the colours is determined by the metal alloys used to mix in with the gold. For example rose gold is made by using a mixture of gold and the alloy copper to give it that lovely soft pink hue. While white gold is mixed with alloys such as silver and palladium. There is a difference in colour between all carats of gold from the richer brighter higher carats of 22ct & 18ct down to the paler yellow tones of the 9ct. Most people prefer 9ct colour in Australia as it is a more subtle effect and is longer lasting. Gold is more stable than any currency, it is widely invested in by banks and large amounts are always held in reserves. 1 ounce of gold = 28 grams The most important mines are South Africa, Australia, USA, Russia & Canada. Gold is given for the 50th & 75th wedding anniversaries. CARATS Jewellery comes in a range of carat weight.

8ct 100% Tarnishing of gold Tarnish films that form on your jewellery are generally harmless. Although they are not very attractive and can cause marking on clothing and skin they will not cause deterioration of your jewellery pieces. The best way to stop this from happening is to clean your jewellery regularly and avoid spraying perfumes & hairsprays near them. Chilton's Antiques offers cleaning services for all jewellery. Causes of tarnish: This can occur due to perspiration- every body has a different chemical make up and this can cause jewellery to blacken especially if you are taking certain medications. Perfume, Hair spray, Deodorants & other beauty products such as hand creams. Tarnishing during storage can occur when chemicals from the boxes can leech into the gold. Preparation of certain foods regularly such as onions and spices can contain acidic sulphur compounds. Household chemicals such as bleach and Napisan. Even chlorine in swimming pools can react. Avoid exercising in jewellery- this not only wears it out quicker but also the sweat caused buy these activities can dull and attack the gold. It is said that perspiration can contain 18 times the nickel content of blood.

This is the body's natural way of eliminating heavy metals. Allergy to gold? An allergy is when a chemical reaction occurs and causes the body to act in an unusual way. This can be anything from a rash to dermatitis. The allergy will not be to gold itself but to one of the alloys mixed into the gold mix such as Nickel. People with this problem can generally wear 18ct gold, Platinum or silver with generally no problems. Some people can send the gold black and very dull looking through their perspiration. In some severe cases a rash can even develop. This also can happen though various stage and periods of time in people's lives. Medication is a big factor in this, certain chemicals and drugs in your system can react with the metals in the gold. Platinum Platinum was first discovered in the 1500's. It has strength, purity, rarity - a white metal like no other. Unlike gold which is quite soft, platinum is used in its almost pure form in jewellery making. Platinum's strength and durability make it the best choice for wedding bands or setting diamonds and precious stones.

Because of this strength and durability Platinum is extremely long wearing and is very white, so unlike white gold it will never need to be rhodium plated. Other qualities with platinum are that it is a very dense, heavy metal. It is heavier than gold; it is also rarer to find than gold in nature. These significant qualities also come with a price tag. Platinum is approximately twice the price of 18ct white gold. Platinum is naturally white while gold has to be artificially coloured by adding other metals and has to be rhodium plated. Rhodium plating can wear off and has to be often reapplied. Platinum because of its hardness requires less maintenance than 18ct white gold which is far softer. Many rings from the 1920's Art Deco era were made in Platinum and are still going strong today. For this reason Platinum represents excellent value for money. The initial price is high but long term you will reap the benefits by not having to have costly jewellery repairs continuously carried out. Platinum requires a jeweller to have a higher level of craftsmanship as it requires a great skill to work with. Platinum's melting point is almost double that of gold. The Second World War saw the prohibition of platinum for jewellery.

During this time it was exclusively used in the armaments industry for the detonation devices in bombs. It is said that this metal is so rare that all the Platinum ever mined would fit into typical sized living room. It takes 8 weeks to refine pure platinum from the ore extracted from the Earth. Platinum has the markings PLAT usually stamped into the band. Platinum is given for the 20th wedding anniversary. Palladium Palladium is from the same group of metals as Platinum and Rhodium. This was often used in vintage 1930's rings as it was a very hardy metal like platinum. It is not often seen today. The bands of these rings will often be stamped with the letters PALL. Rhodium Is a metal that is often used to plate jewellery. Rhodium is a metal similar to platinum and comes from the same group. Rhodium plating is often used to make white gold look whiter and brighter. Rhodium plating is very hardy but it will eventually wear away. It should have to be reapplied every 12-18 months.

It will last this long if you follow the guide lines of avoiding bleach, chorine (swimming pools),perfumes and other beauty products that will strip the plating away. Titanium Titanium is a natural light weight metal which is a silver greyish white colour. It resembles mercury in colour. Titanium is the hardest natural metal in the world. It is three times the strength of steel and much stronger than silver, platinum and gold. It is also 100% hypo allergenic which means it is very safe for super sensitive skin. The only downside to this metal is that when made into a ring, it can never be resized or be soldered onto. Using titanium in jewellery is a relative recent practice and titanium antique pieces will not be found. Stainless steel Stainless steel is generally used in the making of dress jewellery and not in the making of fine jewellery. It is hard durable metal very popular in men's jewellery i.e. bracelets, rings & pendants. Silver Silver is a metal that has been fashionable for centuries. Silver is a really versatile naturally occurring element with some extraordinary properties. Silver has been around since ancient times (from the 3rd millennium BC).

It is extremely malleable so therefore craftsman have been able use it to create a variety of uses from jewellery through to dinnerware and display items. Any shape or form imaginable can be created from silver. Some interesting facts on silver are: that when polished it can reflect light better than any other material; it also is the finest conductor of heat and electricity and is also self sterilizing; bacteria cannot survive on its surface. Silver is really one of the most overlooked materials in jewellery. Silver antique jewellery has today become as popular as it was when it was made over 100 years ago. Today, silver jewellery has made a huge comeback as a wonderful accessory to an outfit because it stands out with darker tones. Silver like gold exists as a pure element and needs to be mixed with other metals for strength. It is a white grey coloured metal. Silver is not recommended to be worn everyday for extended periods of time due to its softness. That's why wedding rings and precious gems and diamonds usually aren't set in it. Silver is prone to oxidisation causing it to turn black and mark clothing. This can be prevented by regular cleaning. Sterling Silver .925% fine Silver.

This type of metal was at the height of popularity during the 1870's and 1880's. The styles that were most popular included large oval lockets with thick chains, large cuff bangles, shields and seals. Also during this time the Orient was just beginning to influence Western style so many of the pieces were designed with an oriental theme, as well as the more traditional themes such as "the language of flowers". The language of the flowers was: bluebells meant constancy; forget-me-knots true love; ivy friendship, fidelity and marriage; honeysuckle bonds of love; lilies of the valley the return of happiness and rosemary remembrance. These themes were often engraved upon many silver jewellery pieces. Silver in tradition has always been the 25th wedding anniversary gift. This is a tradition that dates back throughout history. Silver is a varied mix of styles, hues and tones. Some of the more unusual pieces that stand out are the wide collars and lockets, or Albertina bracelets with tassels and ball charms. These pieces having brighter and duller sections creating contrasts. Many other goods were made of silver, as it was also traditionally given as a Christening gift.

Some of these included small mugs, dressing table sets with brushes combs and mirrors, and also beautifully crafted scent bottles and boxes. Some of the small boxes have either a crystal base or are entirely crafted out of silver. These still today are ever so popular as a keepsake. One fact people often don't realize is that silver was used in the 18th century as a main setting for diamonds. This was done as the white colour of the metal complimented the colourless brilliance of diamonds. In the Victorian period a major deposit of silver was located in Nevada in the USA. This suddenly increased the world's supply of silver availability causing prices to decrease. This then made silver accessible to all classes except the very poor. Birmingham in England became the centre of mass silver production in the 19th Century Silver, just as we have seen with fashion, is constantly revived all the time throughout history. In the early 20th Century the art of the silversmith came alive again through artists such as Georg Jensen the famous Danish designer and Rhoda Wager the English- Australian early female artisan, whose designs were interesting and so contemporary and made the arts and crafts period what it is today.

The arts and craft period is highly sought after in today's market by collectors. Hallmarking with silver is an age old tradition and most silver pieces are hallmarked. This was introduced to show the purchaser of the goods that they were of a certain standard. In the event of fraud, the makers could be traced and punished. With the English hallmarking system the marks can usually date a piece to an exact year and place of manufacture. The system consists of the first mark determining the town of origin. The examples of this are: Birmingham: the anchor; Edinburgh: the castle and Sheffield: the crown. In early pieces of silver the monarchs head i.e. a young or old Victoria or William could also appear. The final mark is that of a letter denoting a year. The letter is either in lower case or a capital and they all have a varying font from an old script style to a modern blocked print. From these symbols we can ascertain a correct year. In Europe each country employed its own system of hallmarking, while in America some pieces just carried the word "sterling". Antique pieces are mostly one offs- no two pieces are ever quite the same.

In our world of mass production there isn't anything more out standing than a piece that is an original. Silver also with time develops a lovely rich patina giving it a soft warm feel to it. So why not add a piece for something different to your collection. At Chilton's Antiques we have a great collection of unusual silver pieces- everything from boxes to compact lockets, bracelets and chains. We have put together one of our best collections to date. So if you are in need of that unusual piece, antique silver may be the way to go. GRADES OF SILVER Continental silver Is silver that is produced in Europe ranging from 800 to 860 in fineness. Coin silver Silver that is made from melted down coins and is 90% pure. Britannia silver Silver that is 95% pure. Alpacca silver Is an alloy metal consisting of approx 60% copper, 20% nickel & 5% tin and sometimes zinc & Iron is also present. Alpaca silver has no actual silver content in the blend of metals, unlike the name which is rather misleading. Alpaca silver supposedly does not rust and tarnish as much as real silver.

It has properties similar to stainless steel. Gunmetal Is an alloy composed of 90% copper and 10% tin and is a dark grey colour. Base metals Many base metals were used in the manufacture of antique jewellery. Base metals include bronze, aluminium, steel, iron, gunmetal, pinchbeck. Bronze is one metal that has been used for centuries. The Etruscans favoured it greatly 400BC. Iron was used by the Romans in their jewellery, and the English had Pinchbeck a mix of copper and zinc invented by watch maker and alchemist Christopher Pinchbeck in 1670-1732. Christopher Pinchbeck was an English clockmaker who invented the alloy for making imitation gold watches. He did this as there was a need for a cheap and durable alloy some time in the 1700's. This remained still very popular until the mid 18th Century when the legislation of nine carat gold was introduced. Cut steel jewellery was used to imitate the diamond look. Aluminium was used in the mid Victorian period and at one stage aluminium was considered a precious metal and as valuable as gold as it had been only discovered in 1827.

This was very short lived and as soon as technology improved, the production costs fell and it became the cheap metal it is today. Base metals were frequently plated with silver or gold to give the appearance of precious metals. Base metals were also called "pot metal" as a mixture of metals were melted down in a pot and used to cast designs. This type of metal is easy to recognize due to its dull life less looking metal. Silver plating marks EPNS - Stands for Electro Plated Nickel Silver the best longest lasting form of silver plating. These marks can often be made to look like pseudo- silver hallmarks. Electro plating is the process in which one metal is coated with another metal, using electricity. This is done usually onto inexpensive metals .Examples of gold in gold plating or the silver in silver plating are well known. The thickness in coating varies. EPBM - Is low cost silver plating on to a base metal. This is lower quality than EPNS silver plate, which is much harder wearing. The initials stand for Electro Plate Britannia Metal. This was plating to an alloy of tin or zinc.

Britannia metal is an alloy of 90% tin, 10 % antimony which is a white silvery appearance, invented in the mid eighteenth century. A cheaper alloy containing 94% tin and 5% antimony and has a small addition of copper. Sheffield Plate - A process invented in late 18th Century England, whereby sheets of silver were fused to copper. This gives the object a warm colour and can be detected by looking around the edges of an object where the silver has worn off showing a warm copper colour. This was mostly used in hollowware such as candle sticks. Metals with a gold appearance Rolled Gold - was made by rolling sheets together in a press: one sheet was gold; the other sheet was a base metal. These were soldered together to become one sheet. Then items were manufactured from them. This was often used in watch cases. Gold Gilt - is a base metal with a gold coating Fraction jewellery 1/12th , 1/10th - is a mark that can be seen on 1930's lockets and bracelets etc. This is where 1/10th of the piece is gold and the remainder is a base metal.

Pinchbeck - Is an alloy of zinc and copper, resembling gold. An ASSAY TEST can be conducted on metals to ensure purity. The true pinchbeck dates from 1670 till 1732 and was invented by Christopher Beck. There are other latter gold alloys that are termed Pinchbeck but the true and correct use of the term should only apply to jewellery dated from this period. Silver lined - Had a base of silver similar to rolled gold that has a gold sheet over the top. This is also called gold cased. Vermeil - (Is pronounced 'vair-MAY',) Vermeil is a form of gold plating and it is also known as silver gilt. This process was done by mercury gilding by the French in the mid 1700's. This was applied over silver to give it a gold matt finish. There are two ways to do this, by either fire gilding or electrolysis. The process of the fire gilding was banned in the 19th century when they discovered that over a period of time the artisans developed blindness due to the mercury, which was the key element in the process.

The gold that is used is at least 10ct and has to be 1.5 micrometers thick. Today this is still done but the safer method is used. This is often seen today in silver jewel boxes and on very silver jewellery. Questions & Answers List of Copper Alloys Copper Alloys List List of Copper Alloys The color of a copper alloy depends on its composition. If it's mostly copper, it could be copper-colored or golden. If other metals prevail, the alloy usually appears silver. Bill Varie / Getty Images Updated October 16, 2016. This is a list of copper alloys or alloys in which copper is usually the base metal.

Arsenical copper Florentine bronze (aluminum or tin) Glucydur Phosphor bronze (tin and phosphorus) Ormolu (Gilt Bronze) (zinc) Cymbal alloys (Bell metal) (tin) Devarda's alloy (aluminum, zinc) Nordic gold (aluminum, zinc, tin) Shakudo (gold) * Pinchbeck (Jewelry) - Definition,meaning - Online Encyclopedia Pinchbeck Pinchbeck is an alloy of copper and zinc (approximately 17% zinc and 83% copper ) invented circa 1720 by Christopher Pinchbeck. It looked like gold but was much lighter which made it very popular for chatelaine s, buckles, snuff boxes and watch cases. Pinchbeck Pinchbeck, Christopher (1670-1732) A London watchmaker who invented, c. 1720, pinchbeck, an alloy to imitate gold and that was named after him. He was a prominent maker of watch es and clocks, as well as musical automata. Pinchbeck, a gold imitation made with 83% copper and 17% zinc was popular during this time.

Georgian ring designs were heavy influenced by Memorial pieces which reflected the Romanticism of the times. Rings made before 1750 were painstakingly crafted with hand- hammered alloy s. ... Pinchbeck: A type of imitation gold composed of an alloy of copper and zinc invented by Christopher Pinchbeck in the 18th century. Pinchbeck A metal (not found in today's jewelry ) made from the combination of copper and zinc to look like gold . Wears very well . Often, mistaken for gold filled and gold plated items. When the jewelry has a particularly pinkish gold cast to it, the content of copper is higher. Pinchbeck A gold simulant , invented circa 1720 by Christopher Pinchbeck, which is comprised of a mixture of copper and zinc A hammering process done to give a smoother finish to a piece of metal ... Pinchbeck A form of brass , an alloy of copper and zinc , mixed in proportions so that it closely resembles gold in appearance. It was invented in the 18th century by Christopher Pinchbeck, a London clockmaker. Rarely used after the mid 1800s.

Pinchbeck: An alloy invented by Christopher Pinchbeck (an English clock maker in the 18th century) to resemble gold . It resembled gold in every way. This was unusual at the time and very unlike any other gold substitute of the day. pinchbeck - A reddish-yellow brass largely used for imitating gold ; a common formula is 88.8 per cent copper , 11.2 per cent zinc . Named for its inventor, Christopher Pinchbeck (1670-1732), a London watchmaker . PINCHBECK The Victorian s used this alloy to imitate yellow gold . Thought to have been created by Christopher Pinchbeck, who was an English watchmaker in the early 1700's ... PINCHBECK: Christopher Pinchbeck, 1670-1732, was a London jeweler , watchmaker , and alchemist who invented a substitute for gold made from an alloy of copper and zinc . PIQUE : Tortoise shell or ivory that has been inlaid with gold , silver , or mother-of-pearl .

The diamond is technically referred to as a modified princess cut pinchbeck A gold simulant , invented circa 1720 by Christopher Pinchbeck, which is comprised of a mixture of copper and zinc . pinchbeck An alloy of copper and zinc invented around 1720 by Christopher Pinchbeck as a less expensive alternative to gold . Pinchbeck is much lighter than gold and was used in making inexpensive jewelry , including chain s, chatelaine s, buckles, and clasp s. Pinchbeck: Metal lurgist Christopher Pinchbeck invented an alloy combining zinc and copper in 1720. The alloy resembled gold in appearance. It was widely used in inexpensive jewelry . It is the precursor to rolled gold . Early examples of chatelaine s from Germany or France tend to be very expensive, and were made of gold , silver or pinchbeck (a gold colour ed alloy of copper and zinc ). They typically had just three chain s, ending in small containers. Mosaic gold - an alloy similar to brass and pinchbeck. Used for mounting in the early nineteenth century. Nef jewel - an ornament in the form of a ship. A favorite during the renaissance . The best known commemorate the armada.

Why antique gold chains are the most desirable among collectors | The Jewellery Editor Read more about collecting antique jewellery The adage that everything is cyclical holds true. The trend for gold jewellery has been back in full swing for some time, and this has translated into antique and period jewellery. The nostalgia for earlier times and the more refined, tasteful elegance of Georgian through to Art Nouveau styles have made intricately designed chains the most desirable in the antique jewellery market. Quite a number of the looks throughout these time periods have become increasingly more collectible in the past two to three years. Whitmer Hammond’s large Victorian sterling silver locket hangs from an ornate sterling silver book chain. “The return of gold and the artful layering of both modern and antique pendants and chains have all contributed to this renewed popularity and interest among new collectors of period jewellery,” explains Lisa Stockhammer-Mial, owner and president of The Three Graces Fine Jewelry. Stockhammer-Mial cites the Georgian Guard chain as one of the most sought-after today and also a chain that needs to be carefully examined before purchasing. “These chains were ultra-lightweight and long - over 50 inches.

Most of these featured bejewelled or clasped hands." Both Stockhammer-Mail and Jacquelyn Babush, historian and owner of Aesthetic Engineering Fine Jewels and Antiques, warn buyers to watch out for reproductions, of which there are many. Both explain that the repros are heavier, don’t have the same fine feeling and the hand clasps usually don’t have the same wear or intricate tooling. Since these chains can cost between $4,000 and $9,000, it might be best to take an expert when purchasing. “The guard chains were sometimes up to 64 inches and were designed to hold watches on dog clips which swivel open," explains Babush. "They were originally worn with the chain tucked into a woman’s belt, and the watch dangled from there.” Muff chains also refer to long chains of this period, created to string through a muff of fur that kept a woman’s hands warm when she was outside, and held it when she was inside. Pinchbeck chains are a more affordable alternative and offer a similar look.

“These chains were invented in the 1700s by Christopher Pinchbeck, who developed a secret alloy by combining copper and zinc to create a metal that gave the appearance and weight of 18ct gold. "It could also be stretched, twisted and spun with great intricacy and decorated with the same detail - such as cannetille work - as authentic gold chains,” Babush explains. It doesn't tarnish or change colour and, due to its scarcity today, has become highly collectible. Lawrence Jeffrey Estate Jewelers’ 18ct gold French filigree 58 inch chain, circa 1880s. Babush and Stockhammer-Mail agree that the long Art Nouveau chains, which are heavier than the Georgian styles, have become more and more desirable. “It’s the length and the design,” says Stockhammer-Mail. There are some beautifully worked filigree and unusual patterns in these French chains. Guilloché enamel panels of flowers and naturalistic leaves in-between the links are also highly coveted in these chains, which can be worn once, twice or three times around the neck.

JEWELRY INDUSTRY DICTIONARY AND GLOSSARY | Ross Metals Blog JEWELRY INDUSTRY DICTIONARY AND GLOSSARY PRECIOUS METALS AND RELATED METALS BASE METAL: Any metal other than the precious metals, such as lead, bismuth, tin, antimony, copper, etc. Alloys of non-precious metals are also referred to as base metals. Findings made of base metal (silver or gold colored) are the cheapest to buy, and are great for practice for beginning beaders and children. For better pieces, use gold filled (a layer of gold stamped – not electroplated – over a base metal core) or sterling silver findings. Base metal findings are usually made of a nickel alloy material that can cause allergic reactions in some people, especially when used in body piercings. Those people who are sensitive to nickel alloys should use only 14 K (or higher) gold found in quality gold-filled findings. Surgical grade stainless steel findings are also available (usually referred to as Hypoallergenic). Most nickel-sensitive people can also tolerate sterling silver with no problems.

BLACK HILLS GOLD: Jewelry made in the Black Hills area of South Dakota, which frequently has a distinctive three-color (yellow, pink and green gold) vine and leaf pattern. The Black Hills Jewelry Mfg. Co. produced the original designs in three colors in Deadwood, South Dakota in the early 1900s. Many jewelers still make Black Hills jewelry today (usually in 10K gold) but by law they must use Black Hills gold. You can create a nice effect by combining rose gold filled wire, yellow gold filled wire and silver. BLUE GOLD: 18K Gold alloyed with 25% iron (75% gold), giving a bluish tint to the metal. BRASS WIRE: Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc, sometimes including small amounts of other metals, but usually 67 percent copper and 33 percent zinc. It comes in various shapes and tempers, and is a wonderful product to practice with, although generally much stiffer and more difficult to work with in wire sculpting than sterling silver or gold-filled wire. It takes on a lovely polish, but tarnishes and becomes dull very quickly. Some jewelers work exclusively with brass wire specifically because of these properties.

Jewelry made from brass wire can be quite beautiful and salable. To many jewelry artists, brass wire is considered to be practice wire and the outcome costume jewelry rather than fine jewelry. BRONZE: An alloy containing at least 60% copper plus tin and sometimes other metals. GERMAN SILVER: Also known as NICKEL SILVER, this alloy is actually roughly 60% copper, 20% nickel, and 20% zinc. If approximately 5% of tin is present in this alloy, it is called Alpaca. As you can see, there is no silver in German Silver. German silver wire is very inexpensive and you can create lots of jewelry for pennies. It should be noted that about 1 person in 20 has a metal allergy to nickel. GOLD: Gold is one of the most visually attractive of all metals, and because of its unique qualities, is considered the “most precious” metal. It is one of the heaviest of all the metals, does not tarnish or corrode, and is very durable.

One of the first metals to attract the attention of man, its durability has been attested to by the discovery of elaborately crafted artifacts of gold in nearly perfect condition from the ancient Egyptian, Etruscan and Assyrian cultures. Gold occurs in nature in almost pure form, and is the most malleable and ductile of the metals. It is a good conductor of heat and electricity, and in its pure state is very soft. One troy ounce of gold (the size of a sugar cube and equal to about 31 grams) can be hammered into a sheet (called gold leaf) covering 10B square feet or pulled into a thread fifty miles long. When you buy gold jewelry, it isn’t pure gold. The purity or fineness of gold in the jewelry is indicated by its karat number. 24-karat (24K or 24 Kt) gold is as pure as gold for jewelry gets. 24K gold is also called fine gold and it is greater than 99.7% pure gold. Proof gold is even finer, with over 99.95% purity, but it is only used for standardization purposes and is not available for jewelry.

When alloyed with another metal to make it harder, more durable and lest costly, the amount of gold (as in parts per 24) in the alloy must be stated if it is over 10K, which is the minimum legal standard in the U.S. Anything less can not be called gold. Throughout the world, the minimum karat standard varies. In Italy and France, 1BK is the minimum; in Canada and England the minimum is only 9K and in Mexico, it’s only BK. Gold articles produced in the U.S. do not have to carry a karat or other quality mark. The exception occurs when a karat mark is applied, then the manufacturer’s registered trademark must be stamped near the karat mark and must be accurate in accordance to federal law. The weight of God and other precious metals is measured in Troy Weight, rather than the standard metric system or American pounds and ounces. See Table 3 for conversion of troy ounces to millimeters and pounds. The various alloys of gold exhibit different colors. See Table 4 for a list gold colors and the proportions of metals used in the alloy.

GOLD FILLED WIRE: Gold-filled wire, sometimes called rolled gold, is a wonderful choice for wire jewelry makers. It is appropriate for all types of jewelry. For most people, it will last their entire lifetime without showing signs of wear. It is made by forming a tube of gold and filling the tube with a base metal, usually jeweler’s brass. The gold content is 5% or 1/20 of the total wire. Gold-filled wire for jewelry offers an affordable, durable choice at a fraction of the cost of solid karat gold. It is generally available in a wide variety of shapes, sizes, and tempers in white, yellow (traditional) and rose gold colors. A Few Facts About 14Kt Rolled Gold Wire (Gold-Filled Wire) • 14/20 Rolled Gold wire creates high fashion jewelry at a fraction of the cost of solid gold and sells extremely well because of the fascination with gold. • There is 100 times more gold in 14 kt. Rolled Gold (gold filled) than in gold plate. • A 14/20 Rolled Gold pendant is usually considered a lifetime piece of jewelry.

• 14/20 Rolled Gold is usually used for pendants, pins, collars, bracelets, and small rings. • Gold filled wire is available in 10k, 12k, and 14k, being the best quality and most durable. In the symbol 14/20, the 14 stands for the karat of gold used, and the 20 means 1/20. • Basically, gold-filled wire is a good metal for a good price. It should always be represented properly and never misrepresented to your customer as solid gold. I collect old wire jewelry pieces and have several with actual dates on them. I show my customer these items to illustrate that gold-filled jewelry can stand the test of time. GOLD PLATED WIRE: Gold-plated metal has a very thin layer of gold on the surface of a base metal, usually applied by the process of electroplating. Plating makes the layer of gold a much thinner layer than Gold Filled, and it is most commonly plated with 10K gold. KARAT: The fineness of gold, equal to one part of 24 in gold alloys.

(See Gold) KARATCLAD: A trademark for a very thick gold electroplating process which is approximately 14 times thicker than standard electroplating. NICKEL SILVER: Not silver at all, except in color, for this alloy contains no silver, but is mostly copper (about 60%), with approximately equal parts of nickel and zinc added. With the addition of a small percentage of tin, the alloy is then called Alpaca. This alloy was first used in the mid-1800s by the Germans as a silver substitute. NOBLE METALS: A less-frequently used term for the precious metals gold, silver and platinum. PALLADIUM: A durable metal related to platinum, palladium has recently been added to the short list of “precious” metals. It is less dense and more malleable than platinum, but has a lower melting point and reacts more readily to acids. Palladium will also develop tarnish when heat is applied. Palladium was first used in jewelry in 1939 as a substitute for platinum, which was being used for the war effort. After the war, it was used rarely because there were difficulties working it.

When white gold is alloyed with palladium instead of nickel, a gray-white gold is produced. Because palladium has become very useful in catalytic converters, its price has risen dramatically (per ounce, more than gold or silver), making it an impractical alternative to platinum. PATTERN WIRE: Also called Strip wire. Not wire at all, but strips of either base or precious metal that are stamped, embossed or engraved with a decorative pattern. This is a great wire to make cuff bracelets. See one of our bracelets in our free pattern section. PLATINUM: Very strong, very dense, and 60% heavier than gold, Platinum was discovered in Russia in the 18th century. Platinum used in jewelry is usually alloyed with a small percentage of another metal of the platinum group (iridium, osmium, rhodium, ruthenium or palladium) and/or cobalt to increase its malleability. All of the platinum group of metals are rare, with platinum and palladium only slightly more common, and of course they are all expensive. PINCHBECK: Also known as “false gold,” this is an alloy of copper that looks like gold.

Pinchbeck was invented by British watchmaker Christopher Pinchbeck (1672-1732) in the early 18th century. Pinchbeck consists of 83% copper and 17% zinc. Ironically, there have been many imitations of Pinchbeck (which itself is an imitation). PMC®: The registered abbreviation for Precious Metal Clay®. PMC® is just what its name implies, precious metal in the form of clay. It is available in pure silver mixed with water and an organic binder (80% fine silver powder, 20% water and organic binder) and in 24K gold in a similarly compounded base. It can be rolled, cut, shaped and even extruded from a pastry tube, in other words, just like sculpting clay. Once the shape is made, it is fired in a kiln or special oven at temperatures from 1,650°F for silver and to about 1,830°F for gold. PRECIOUS METAL: The precious metals are gold, silver and most of the metals from the platinum family.

They are all rare, with gold present in only 3.5 parts per billion of the Earth’s crust, platinum about 45 parts per billion and silver in 73 parts per billion. All of these metals are strong and heavy because metallic bonding and their closely packed atomic structures. RHODIUM: One white metal of the platinum family of precious metals. Rhodium is quite expensive, and is often used to plate both precious and base metals giving them a hard, platinum-like sheen. ROLLED GOLD: A very thin sheet of gold is laminated to a lesser metal, such as brass, then heated under pressure to fuse them together. The fused metal is then rolled into a much thinner sheet and used to make jewelry or other objects, and is marked RGP for Rolled Gold Plate. Rolled gold jewelry wears very well over time. RUTHENIUM: Another of the platinum group of precious metals, it is usually abbreviated Ru or Ruth. Ruthenium in small amounts is added to platinum alloys to strengthen and harden them. SETTING: The base or section of a piece of jewelry that holds the stone or gem. If a setting has metal behind the stone, it is referred to as a closed setting.

Where there is no metal behind the stone, the setting is considered “open.” There are many different styles and types of settings, including: SILVER WIRE: A fine, naturally-occurring precious metal with an almost white sheen that is used for many purposes, including jewelry. Pure silver is usually alloyed with other metals, such as copper, for use in jewelry and hollowware. Silver tarnishes after exposure to air, which forms a thin layer of silver-oxide on the surface. Silver often occurs near copper lodes. SILVER 800: Silver alloy which contains 800 parts per 1000 (80%) silver and 200 parts per thousand (20%) copper, and is used primarily for casting. SOLDER: A metal alloy used to join other metals by applying heat that melts the solder but not the metals being soldered. Available in gold and silver as well as base metal, solder also comes in different grades and required temps. Not all solder melts at the same temperature, and it is crucial that solder be of a grade that melts at lower temperature than the metals to be joined.

STERLING: Silver with a fineness of 925 parts per 1000 (92.5%) silver and 75 parts per thousand (7.5%) copper, which increases the silver’s hardness. Sterling is quite malleable and ductile. TROY WEIGHT: The system of units of mass customarily used for weighing precious metals and gemstones. It derives from the troy system of mass, which dates back to before the time o William the Conqueror. Us name comes from the city of Troyes, in France, an important trading city in the Middle Ages. The system -is based on the troy pound of 5760 grains. The pound was divided into 12 ounces (480 grains) each containing 20 pennyweight (24 grains). (See Table 3) VERMEIL: Gold-plated silver; or occasionally, gold-plated bronze. Vermeil has a very rich gold color, usually darker than high-karat gold. WHITE GOLD: Gold that has been alloyed with a mixture of copper, manganese, nickel, tin and zinc, and sometimes palladium), giving it the look of platinum.

White gold was originally developed during WVV II to imitate platinum, which was at the time considered a strategic material for military applications. YELLOW GOLD: An alloy of gold with a mixture containing 50/50 copper and silver. Age Hardenable Alloys- Alloys that can be hardened beyond the soft state by heating. (Also called “Heat Treat¬able Alloys”.) Britannia Metal-A composition of copper, tin and antimony. Coin Silver-An alloy containing 90% silver. Commercial Silver-Silver that is at least 999 fine. ALUMINUM: An inexpensive, lightweight and very malleable metal that is silver-white in color. In the past, it was used for very inexpensive jewelry, but is now the metal of choice for everyday items, from kitchen foil to engine blocks. Aluminum is also used in many alloys to improve malleability. CHROMIUM: Hard, shiny, gray-white metal that resists corrosion quite well. Sometimes used in costume jewelry as a coating over other metals. COPPER WIRE: Reddish gold in color, this wonderfully versatile metal was the first metal used by man for tools, implements, weapons and artwork.

Copper use predates recorded history, and though it was later replaced by bronze and iron for weapons and tools, its popularity and usefulness has not waned in thousands of years. Copper is malleable and easily worked by chasing, hammering, engraving and even cold-rolling (See Rolling). Copper is very malleable, but not suited for casting in its pure form, although alloys containing a high percentage of copper may be. Copper is quite inexpensive, is great for practice wire, or in two- or three-toned pieces. Copper is said to have healing properties for rheumatic or arthritic conditions. The only real drawback of copper, at least for jewelry applications, is that it oxidizes quite readily, will leave a green or black mark on the skin. To prevent that discoloration, copper jewelry is often coated with a clear protective surface, such as an acrylic, but the coating eventually wears away. Copper wire is a great way to get started in wire sculpting with very little cost. CRAFT WIRE: A permanently color-coated copper-based wire, which is soft and very malleable. Retains its shape moderately well, particularly in the larger gauges.

IRON: This metal is very seldom used in jewelry because of its lack of luster and because it is so brittle. NIOBIUM: A lightweight, tough, hypoallergenic refractory metal, usually anodized to produce vivid colors for costume jewelry. Mars easily and cannot be soldered. ORMOLU: An alloy of copper, zinc and tin, ormolu is used to imitate gold. The French term for ground gold, “Ormolu” was frequently used for candlesticks, furniture embellishments and picture frames during the Georgian and early Victorian eras. Today, the term is most often applied to any gold-like finish used for intricate decorations. PEWTER: A soft metal alloy composed mostly of tin, with lead, antimony, bismuth, copper and/or silver added. Polished pewter has a silvery luster. Pewter can be easily worked by several different methods, the most popular being casting of charms, hammering of larger items, and turning on a lathe to produce candlesticks or goblet stems. POT METAL: An inexpensive metal alloy commonly used for costume jewelry. Not used as frequently as in the past, as it nearly always contains a significant amount of lead.

ROULZ: A metal alloy consisting of copper, nickel and silver, named for the French chemist who invented it in the 1800s. STEEL: An alloy of iron and carbon where the content of the carbon ranges up to 2%. When the alloy contains more than 2% carbon, it’s defined as cast iron. Steel is very seldom used for jewelry. SURGICAL or SURGICAL STAINLESS STEEL: Anyone of a family of low carbon alloy steels usually containing 10-30% chromium. The chromium provides exceptional resistance to corrosion and heat. Other elements may be added to increase corrosion resistance to specific environments, enhance oxidation resistance and impart special characteristics. In jewelry, which is sometimes labeled “hypoallergenic,” we see it in a few findings, such as ear wires or posts. For more information visit us Like this: Most popular metals used in Jewellery - Wedunit Jewels Pure Silver: also called 'Fine Silver' Britannia Silver: standard containing 95.8% silver, Sterling Silver, 925: alloy of 92.5% silver with 7.5% copper.

Sterling silver is harder than pure silver, and has a lower melting point (893 °C) than either pure silver or pure copper. Argentium Sterling Silver: With the addition of germanium, the patented modified alloy Argentium Sterling Silver is formed, with improved properties including resistance to tarnish. Coin silver: is used in some countries and could be marked "900" or "800" depending on fineness. 900 silver is 90% silver and 10 % copper, and 800 silver is 80 percent silver and 20 percent copper. "Mexican Silver", "German Silver," "Indian Silver," "Montana Silver," or simply "silver" do not guarantee any silver content. "German Silver" is another name for the alloy of Copper, Nickel and Zinc usually called Nickel Silver. Despite the name, Nickel Silver contains no silver. "Tibet Silver" is a 100% lead-free zinc alloy that has anywhere from 5-10% actual silver content. It is 100% hypo-allergenic. It does hold up very well, even in jewelry tumblers.

It is often made to resemble genuine .925 Bali silver. Silver is a constituent of almost all coloured karat gold alloys and karat gold solders, giving the alloys paler colour and greater hardness. White 9K gold contains 62.5% silver and 37.5% gold, while 22K gold contains up to 8.4% silver or 8.4% copper. Silver is stable in pure air and water, but tarnishes when it is exposed to air or water containing ozone or hydrogen sulfide to form a black layer of silver sulfide which can be cleaned off with dilute hydrochloric acid. Gold When you buy gold jewellery, it isn't pure gold. Your gold is really an alloy, or mixture of metals. The purity or fineness of gold in the jewellery is indicated by its karat number. 24 karat (24K or 24 kt) gold is as pure as gold for jewellery gets. 24K gold is also called fine gold and it is greater than 99.7% pure gold.

Proof gold is even finer, with over 99.95% purity, but it is only used for standardization purposes and is not available for jewellery. Gold will form alloys with most metals, but for jewellery, the most common alloying metals are silver, copper, and zinc. However, other metals may be added, especially to make coloured gold. 22K Yellow Gold - Gold 91.67%, Silver 5%, Copper 2%, Zinc .33% 18K Rose Gold - Gold 75%, Copper 22.25%, Silver 2.75% 18K White Gold, expensive - Gold 75%, Platinum or Palladium 25% 18K White Gold, cheaper - Gold 75%, Palladium 10%, Nickel 10%, Zinc 5% 18K Green Gold& - Gold 75%, Silver 20%, Copper 5% 18K Purple Gold - Gold 80%, Aluminum 20% White Gold White gold is an alloy of gold and at least one white metal, usually nickel or palladium. Like yellow gold, the purity of white gold is given in karats.

White gold's properties vary depending on the metals and proportions used. As a result, white gold alloys can be used for different purposes; while a nickel alloy is hard and strong, and therefore good for rings and pins, gold-palladium alloys are soft, pliable and good for white gold gemstone settings, sometimes with other metals like copper, silver, and platinum for weight and durability, although this often requires specialized goldsmiths. The term white gold is used very loosely in the industry to describe karat gold alloys with a whitish hue. Many believe that the color of the rhodium plating, which is what they see on many commercial pieces, is actually the color of white gold. The term white covers a large spectrum of colors that borders or overlaps pale yellow, tinted brown, and even very pale rose. The jewelry industry often hide these off-white colours by rhodium plating. Rose, Red and Pink Gold Rose gold is a gold and copper alloy widely used for specialized jewelry due to its reddish color. It is also known as pink gold and red gold. As it was popular in Russia at the beginning of the nineteenth century, it is also known as Russian gold, although this term has become somewhat rare.

Although the names are often used interchangeably, the difference between red, rose, and pink gold is the copper content-the higher the copper content, the stronger the red coloration, as pure gold is yellow and pure copper is reddish. A common alloy for rose gold is 75% gold and 25% copper by mass (18 karat). Since rose gold is an alloy, there is therefore no such thing as "pure rose gold". Green Gold Green gold alloys are made by leaving the copper out of the alloy mixture, and just using gold and silver. It actually appears as a greenish yellow, rather than as green. Eighteen karat green gold would therefore contain a mix of gold 75% and silver 25%. Fired enamels adhere better to these alloys. Platinum As a pure metal, platinum is silvery-white in appearance, lustrous, ductile, and malleable. It does not oxidize at any temperature. Platinum's resistance to wear and tarnish is well suited for making fine jewellery. As of March 2010, platinum was more expensive than gold, though this has not always been the case.

The metal has an excellent resistance to corrosion and high temperatures and has stable electrical properties. Palladium Palladium itself has been used as a precious metal in jewelry since 1939, as an alternative to platinum or white gold. This is due to its naturally white properties, giving it no need for rhodium plating. It is slightly whiter, much lighter and about 12% harder than platinum. Similar to gold, palladium can be beaten into a thin leaf. Like platinum, it will develop a hazy patina over time. Unlike platinum, however, palladium may discolour at high soldering temperatures, become brittle with repeated heating and cooling, and react with strong acids. Palladium is one of the three most popular metals used to make white gold alloys. (Nickel and silver can also be used.) Palladium-gold is a more expensive alloy than nickel-gold, but seldom causes allergic reactions (though certain cross-allergies with nickel may occur). When platinum was declared a strategic government resource during World War II, many jewellery bands were made out of palladium. As recently as September 2001, palladium was more expensive than platinum and rarely used in jewellery also due to the technical obstacle of casting.

However the casting problem has been resolved, and its use in jewellery has increased because of a large spike in the price of platinum and a drop in the price of palladium. Prior to 2004, the principal use of palladium in jewellery was as an alloy in the manufacture of white gold jewellery, but, beginning early in 2004 when gold and platinum prices began to rise steeply, Chinese jewellers began fabricating significant volumes of palladium jewellery. This growth continued during 2005, with estimated worldwide jewellery demand for palladium of about 1.4 million ounces, or almost 21% of net palladium supply, again with most of the demand centered in China. The popularity of palladium jewellery is expected to grow in the next years as the world's biggest producers embark on a joint marketing effort to promote palladium jewellery worldwide. Rhodium Plating Rhodium plating is very popular to increase the shine, white colour and durability against scratching in silver and white gold. It is also used as an economical way to turn yellow gold into white gold. The plating will wear off with time and needs to be re-newed.

Removing Rhodium Plating The only way to remove the rhodium plating is by mechanically buffing it off. Other metal plating can be removed by 'electro stripping', similar to the plating procedure only in reverse, but rhodium doesn't respond to that. That's one of the reasons the rhodium is used in the first place, because it is so hard and durable. Bi - Metals Shop for Gold Filled Jewellery Now Gold filled means 1/20th of the total weight of the piece is solid gold, deposited on the outside of the metal. So, if you have 14K gold filled metal, you have a layer of solid 14K gold on the outside. With gold-filled items, the solid gold layer is 50 to 100,000 times thicker than regular gold plating, and 17 to 25,000 times thicker than heavy gold electroplate (sometimes stamped HGE or HGP). Vermeil is a combination of sterling silver and gold. A typical example is sterling silver coated with 14K (58%) gold.

To be considered vermeil, the gold must also be at least 10K (42%) and be at least 2.5 microns thick. (In comparison, gold plated items only have a gold layer of 0.5 microns thick). A micron is 1/1000th of a millimetre.

Question: Pinchbeck, a 1700s alloy of copper and zinc, was a popular alternative for?
Answer: Gold