The Moustache Handlebar The Bridgestone/Nitto/Rivendell Moustache Handlebar 2014 note: This web page is ancient, and I haven't updated it in ages. I'll leave it up for as long as I can, but it's likely very out of date. Enjoy while you can! The following three illustrations and accompanying text (in "Typewriter" style) are Copyright (c) 1993 Bridgestone Cycles (USA) Inc. and Bridgestone Cycle Co. LTD and are reproduced without permission, since I'm too lazy to write a letter to Tokyo, and I'd just end up confusing some poor office serf who probably has better things to do. A fast and very comfortable hand position for relatively smooth roads. The brake-hood tips should be 12 to 13cm apart, and no higher than horizontal. Note: I currently have them set up a bit further than 13cm apart and quite a bit lower than horizontal, and this works great for me. Leave the tape off when you first set them up and be prepared to stop and adjust during your first few rides until you find the brake lever position best for you.

Off-road braking is secure, just like on a mountain bike. If you ride steep, bumpy off-road descents, add padding under the tape, inside the curve. Note: I used an old innertube, folded over a few times, and taped to the bar underneath the handlebar tape for padding and it works quite well. Mounting "dummy" levers here gives you another hand position. Tip: Remove the vestigial levers with a 2mm allen key, then saw off the exposed nub and file the edge smooth. This saves 2.2 oz and adds knee clearance. Note: If you look at the picture of my Moustache bars, below , you'll see that I've removed the vestigial levers, but not yet sawed off the nubs. Note 2: This is not a very stable riding position. To test to see if you find this position stable enough, ride the bike that you want to equip with Moustache bars and put both hands on the stem or on the bars real close to the stem. If you find this to be intolerably unstable, either don't put the dummy levers on, or improve your balance by riding rollers.

After about 1 hour total time on rollers I could ride with my hands on the dummy levers just fine. Which Style Brake Levers? If you're going to use cantilever brakes, you should definitely consider using non-aero road brake levers. If you're going to use sidepull brakes, you should still use them, because they're out of style, and thus will be cheaper. Dia Compe makes the model 287 cantilever-specific road-style brake levers that folks have said work well with these handlebars. Look at how the cable housing for the front brake goes through about a 120 degree turn, immediately followed by a nearly 90 degree turn. This makes for lousy braking control. Sidepull brakes would be similarly affected, but you have more room from the point where the housing exits the tape until it enters the brake lever, so the turns would be less severe. A longer stem, or one with less rise, would probably reduce the severity of the turns. The rear brake cable housing goes through an acceptably tight turn, but is still improved by the change to... ...non-aero brake levers.

Note how the front brake cable housing now follows a gentle arc over the stem, performing only one turn, and an easy one at that. Changing from aero to non-aero levers has significantly improved the feel of the front brake. The rear wasn't really affected much, but it's nice to have them match. Can I buy these? Maybe. Rivendell Bicycle Works used to sell them, and may still, but call to confirm price and availability. Rivendell Bicycle Works 925.933.7304 F 877.269.5847 You can also get any bike shop, online or otherwise, who orders from QBP to order the Nitto bars for you. There are other similar handlebars out there. Redline sells a bike, the 925, with their own version of the Moustache bar. I don't know if you can purchase that version by itself. On-One in the UK makes a version of the Moustache bar that they call the Mungo .

Dimension makes a "Double-bend Urban Alum Bar" available from aebike.com, in black or silver , but it doesn't take bar-end shifters, but does take road brake levers, so I guess they're for dowtube shifters or single-speeds. They are pretty cheap, though. I've never ridden any of the other moustache bars, so can't comment on their feel in comparison to the Nitto bars. Do I need anything else? You'll need road style brake levers, preferably with non-aero cable routing, as explained above. Expect to pay up to $35 or so for good levers, but your local bike shop may have cheaper ones lying around. You'll also need bar-end shifters, which Rivendell will soon be making in a friction only model, or indexed versions are available from Shimano and Campagnolo, although the Campy ones are very hard to find, very expensive, and indexed-only (Shimano's are switchable to friction mode if you like). Check mail order if your local bike shop doesn't carry them.

If you only want friction shifting, Campy, Suntour, Zeus, and others made them long ago, and they might be available used if you keep your eyes open. Rivendell has been keeping various and sundry bar-end shifters in stock, check to see what they have currently available. If you buy used, make sure you get appropriate length cable housings and cables - the rear deraileur cable needs to be extra long for bar-end shifters. Craig Calfee of Calfee Designs swears that moustache bars and Ergo shifters are a perfect match. The ergo shifter "nubs" end up right where your thumb rests normally. I saw a bamboo Calfee with Moustache bars at the 2006 North American Handmade Bicycle show. Very nice. My comments from one year with the Moustache Bars: I won't try to convert all the worlds' heathens to the Moustache Bar way, but I do think that a lot of people who currently use straight handlebars would be happier with Moustache bars, and a smaller percentage of folks who use drop bars would be happier with Moustache bars.

Advantages over straight bars: The primary advantage over straight bars are that straight bars give only one hand position, and not a very comfortable position at that, while moustache bars give 4 or 5 distinct hand positions. Straight bars need bar-ends attached to give them a second or perhaps a third hand position, and they still don't have a good position for aero road descents or for shifting while climbing. Put your arms in front of you and notice the position to which the wrists naturally fall, it isn't the position offered by straight handlebars, but is the position offered by the moustache bars if you bring your hands slightly back from the braking position as shown in the second diagram above . The next biggest advantage is shifting while climbing. Most folks with straight bars ride on the extenders (or "bar ends" which is easily confused with the shifters on this bike) while climbing, forcing them to rotate and move their hands to get to their shift or brake levers. The optimal climbing position on moustache bars is right next to or slightly forward of the shifting position, making it much easier to downshift when gravity unexpectedly gets stronger.

This optimal position is the same one your wrists drop into naturally, as explained in the previous paragraph. Disadvantages when compared to straight bars: You can't simultaneously shift and brake, which can be a bit of a bother. Primarily, this is a problem for me when I crest a hill and need to change from the granny to the middle chainring so that the chain doesn't chew the chainstay to bits while it bounces around on the downhill (and I want to have a useful gear for when I next start pedalling, one that doesn't put me into a 200rpm spin). With practice, I've learned to shift the front as I crest, and if needed I have rear brake control while doing so. If you don't mind using only one brake at a time, this isn't much of a problem. Advantages over drop bars: You get much better braking power and control with moustache bars than with drop bars when you ride on the hoods. The braking is comperable if not even a bit better than the control and power you get when riding in the hooks, but you're much more upright, which is really nice when off-roading or when you want to sit up and enjoy the scenery.

I've never lost my grip on the brakes on bumpy stuff, while I've had one or the other hand knocked off the brakes while riding on the hoods on regular drop bars when riding on bumpy roads. The second major advantage is that you can shift your bar-end shifters while standing, quite easily in fact, while shifting bar-end shifters on drop bars while standing is too annoyingly difficult to be worth the effort--I've found it easier to sit for a fraction of a second and shift. Disadvantages when compared to drop bars: They really don't give all the positions of drop bars, and on very long some rides won't be as comfortable, but will still be more comfortable than straight bars on long rides. You also can't get quite as low and aero as easily and as comfortably on moustache bars as you can on drop bars (if you're using a short stem with a high rise, as most folks do with these bars), but again, they're still better for an aero position than straight bars.

What other folks think of the Moustache Bars: Art Davis (artd@scisoc.org) says: I commute (28 miles round trip) on a Bridgestone XO-2 from late March to early October (Minneapolis area!!). I also ride a Bridgestone RB-1 on weekends. The moustache handlebars are great for commuting except for the fact they make attachment of various devices such as lights and bags difficult. For the road bike normal drops are preferred both for riding position and as a contrast to the moustache bars. Larry Carey says: I've been running the Moustache bars on my MB-4 for about two years. I tried them out and never went back. I don't commute (wish I could) but do a lot of riding. Most of my rides consist of a medium-long road ride, where I like to hit the trails. The trails that I ride go from flat fire roads to trick single track and even trials type terrain. My point being that I use the Moustache bars for all types of riding.

I got mine from a dealer in CA somewhere that has piles of them everywhere from when they yank em off the new XO's (who wants curvy bars when you never see them in the MB Action ads?) I didn't get the vestigial levers when I bought 'em. I use standard mountain bike shifters (XTR thumb shifters set on friction) and brake levers (as shown in the catalog). I have no problem mounting a small light on them (the real light I wear on my head anyway). Here is a brief listing of my favorite aspects of those wavy beauties: (Larry's Letterman Impersonation --Drew) 1. The many hand positions make them more versatile than straight or true drop bars. 2. They are superior to anything else in any climbing situation. Better leverage, without cheesy bar-ends. 3. They've got that chewing gum look: very wriggly. 4. Naturally prone to aero riding positions (relative to straight bars). 5. Added natural suspension when riding on the ends of bars, letting them bounce and flex (who needs springery?). 6. Alienates tri-athletes and keeps techno-geeks at bay. 7.

I'm not sure about this, but they sure LOOK old-timey and traditional. 8. Shape seems to lend a feeling of added balance and stability to the front end. 9. Excellent for aggressive descents, allow you to naturally shift weight way back, more easily than straight or drop bars. Hey what is this a top ten list? 10. I don't know. Hey it's good to see that I'm not the only guy that appreciates these things. Richard Drdul (drdul@mindlink.net) says: I went from drop bars to moustache bars on my commuter (35 km round trip), mainly just to be different, and because Grant P.'s description made 'em sound like the cat's meow. I've been riding on them now for 8 months. The verdict? They're definitely different, and for me, are worth it for that. I couldn't ride long distances on them, though, because more road shocks and vibration are transmitted to my hands than on drop bars (I like to ride on the hoods on drop bars, where the soft part of my hands between thumb and fingers cushions road shocks and vibration -- I lose this benefit with the moustache bars).

Braking is great (I use aero levers with groovy old Gran Compe centrepull brakes) -- as good as on drop bars when pulling on the levers from the drops, better than when trying to brake from the tops of the hoods. I don't like riding on the hoods. It's not that it's unstable, it's just uncomfortable and awkward. By the way, I started with the tips of my brake levers 13 cm. apart, but have moved them out to 15 cm. for more comfortable hand positioning. I use Shimano barcons, which I first encountered on our tandem. At first I hated them, but have grown to love shifting with indexed barcons -- to shift to a smaller cog, I just press against the barcon with the lower palm of my hand, keeping a nice firm grip on the bar all the time. In fact, you can grip the bars and shift with both hands at the same time. Much easier to use barcons on the moustache bars than on drop bars. All-in-all, I enjoy the moustache bars on my commuter bike, but wouldn't recommend them for a touring bike (use good, wide drop bars instead).

Syd Garriss (sgarriss@erols.com) says: I've been riding an XO-3 since September of 93. I have an RBT with drops and recently purchased a Mongoose Rockadile SX with a straight bar -- the XO-3 is my preferred ride. The bike came with DiaCompe brakes, LX shifters and dummy road brakes with hoods. The setup includes Ritchey grips as well as taped bars. I have recently switched to STX shifter/brake levers. I really like the current setup except the shifter trigger lever can crowd the grip area (this has only been a problem when hitting bumps while braking downhill.) The dummy road levers are mounted just to the inside of the forward most sweep of the bars. This gives a fairly aero hand position, moving your hands about four inches inward and about 5 inches forward of the normal bar end position. I commute and I like having my hands on the brakes/shifters most of the time. I have also ridden this bike on a 110 mile ride and the multiple hand positions were a real godsend.

Also, my commuting route is hilly and I find the moustache bars let me on and off the saddle very comfortably, I don't have to hunch and my weight doesn't go too far forward. I'm a believer, glad to see I'm not the only one. Kevin (plant@sirius.com) says: I have used moustache bars exclusively for the past three years on my Rivendell All-'Rounder in the city, on the trail and on fairly long road trips (100 miles). I like the fact that there are so many hand positions available and disagree that it is not possible to brake and shift at the same time, if you only use one brake while shifting you can easily come to a complete stop efficiently, but why would you need to brake and shift at the same time? Carl Gonzalez (bikecg@worldnet.att.net) says: I have recently mounted moustache bars on my Peugeot PX10LE. I also added 36 hole Wolber Super Champion Mixte rims and TUFO 28mm cross tubulars.

The bike is outfitted with Campy Nuovo Record stuff but essentially the moustache bars have created the result I wanted, that is, a racing bike with cross and commuter characteristics. I like the moustache bars for short distance rides and light off road duty. I will say that my lower back gets more sore using them. That may be due, however, to the extra work required riding lower pressure high rolling resistance tubulars. I really like the bars for climbing. Drew's Note: Hsing Lung made some Moustache Bars for Bridgestone that were designed for use with "Mountain Bike" shifters and brake levers (22.2mm or 7/8 inch outside diameter), and it sounds like Larry's MB-4 and Syd's XO-3 are equipped with these. Unfortunately, these are no longer made. Nitto Moustache bars have always been made to be used with "Road Bike" shifters and brake levers (23.8mm OD), as shown in the pictures above. You can put thumb shifters on these larger bars, but I've not done it or seen it, although I'd be happy to put instructions here if anyone would be willing to provide them.

Enrico Mezzacappa (enrico@phoenixdsl.com) says: I have equipped two of my bikes with moustache bars, and have ridden these both for the past year or so. My Waterford, which I use primarily for weekend rides, has the 'road' version. I purchased these from Rivendell and have Modolo Super Prestige non-aero brake levers and Suntour Power Ratchet friction bar-end shifters on this set up. My Fuji Touring Series is my commuter. I was able to find the 'mountain' version at a local bike shop a couple of years ago, and mounted it on this bike with older Campy Euclid combined brake and shift levers, so I can brake and shift with both hands at the same time. I am extremely pleased with the performance and comfort of these bars in both instances, and have no intentions of going back to other bars. I purposely kept both stems (Nitto Technomics) at 10 cm, so as to be able to get more 'aero' when I'm out on the bends. Long rides, climbing, and braking are great with these bars, and commuting is comfortable and secure.

It is very easy to change not only your hand, but your seat position as well, with these bars. So no part of your weight-bearing anatomy has to suffer! Check out my XO-1. reference - Different kinds of Handlebars - Bicycles Stack Exchange Different kinds of Handlebars 9 What different kinds of bike handle bars are there? All kinds welcome, the common and the nameless. If possible include the pros and cons of the bar One bar per post Similar to this entry in one of the reference threads: ‌​index/322#322 . Duplicates, or not? The linked question didn't go into the kind of detail this thread is trying to. – Neil Fein Sep 25 '10 at 16:51 2 @neilfein, I think we can have both quesions as there ansers don't overlap much. 322 could just say what a handlerbar is and provide a link to this quesion. – Ian Sep 25 '10 at 17:05 @Ian - Done. I put the three types in the old entry here, we still need pros and cons of the handlebar types, and some pretty CC pictures.

– Neil Fein Sep 25 '10 at 17:14 1 In a search for strange handlebar types, I've found this site: BikeHacks.com . – Neil Fein Sep 26 '10 at 3:47 1 You now what is nice, not having the stackoverflow folks kill this useful list question because its not in Q&A format. – studgeek Jan 1 '14 at 1:35 up vote 15 down vote Flat bars The simplest kind of handlebar, these are a straight bar with grips on the end. Flat bars were traditionally only used by cross-country riders but now you see them in more general application. Flat bars ( image credit ) Flat bars offer more space to mount lights and computers than drop bars. These bars have bar ends attached for additional hand positions. ( image credit ) Butterfly Bars - also known as touring or trekking bars Pros: Lots of different positions available Cons: Not very light. Often used for long distance touring bikes where comfort through being able to use different riding positions is essential. up vote 13 down vote Drop bars Usually seen on road bikes.

Designed to give the rider multiple hand positions, as well as the ability to "tuck" forward, decreasing wind drag. These can be fitted with aerobars for additional aerodynamic advantage. Drop bars are generally narrower than flat bars, and don't offer quite as much detailed control over the bike on uneven surfaces. Drops are often the bars of choice for longer bike rides. Drop bars on a touring bike ( image credit ) up vote 12 down vote Tri-bars (or aerobars ) originating from triathlon, but now seen in almost any time trial situation where the racer is alone and not able to ride in a group. The pros of the design are to promote a static, streamlined position, where the rider cannot easily move but will remain in a aerodynamically advantageous position, thus resulting in a faster ride. The cons are that this design is often uncomfortable for extended periods. When used on a bike that is then ridden in a group, it can be dangerous, as coming off the bars to use the brakes takes time, and some designs present what is effectively a couple of spikes to the front, which could make a collision with a softer target a worse outcome.

Tri-bars can be 'standalone' bars or installed as an add-on to normal bars. Gear shifters can also be added to allow riders to remain in position while changing gear. Triathletes will often use the space between the hands to place a bottle with a straw to allow for hydration with minimum movement. up vote 8 down vote Variations in Drop Bars Another important distinction in a drop bar is the shape of the drop. There are ergo bars that look like this: There are conventional curved bars that look like this: Note that the links are just representative of the style, not the actual cost. There should be negligible price difference between the bars. In my case, the ergo bar pushes the palm of my hand away from the levers. This makes it much more difficult to reach the levers (mostly for shifting, although it is at the limit of comfort for braking as well). You could fix this problem one of two ways: buying a set of levers which have an adjustable reach option, or swapping out the handlebars. I'm doing the latter.

There is also the randonneur bar, a drop bar where the middle bar arcs upward slightly at each end, the drops angle outward, and the drop is less severe than the standard design. Designed to be more comfortable for long rides. Harris Cyclery Handlebars, Grips and Tape 25.4 mm (1 inch) is the ISO international standard for all types of handlebars, and is the most common size for drop bars as well. Most of the bars we sell use this clamp size. If you want to use a 25.4 mm bar in a 26.0 stem, we sell special shims for the purpose. 26.0 mm is the Italian national standard. Because Italian handlebar and stem brands are so popular, even many bars from other countries have adopted this size, and many people consider it to be a de facto "road" standard. Most expensive drop bars and stems are this size, or the slightly smaller 25.8 mm variant (those are interchangeable.) 31.8 mm (1 1/8 inch) is a relatively new "oversized" standard increasingly seen on high-end bars and stems.

26.4 mm is the obsolete Cinelli proprietary size, used by Cinelli until sometime in the late 1990s. 25 mm is the obsolete French size. We have a limited selection in our French Parts Section. 15/16" is the obsolete English size for steel handlebars. Grooves Traditional handlebars have no grooves, providing a nice round grip area. They work with all types of drop bar brake levers and shifters. Single-groove handlebars have a groove in the front of the bar to receive the brake cable with modern "æro" brake levers. These grooves are not at all necessary, since you don't rest any weight on the front side of the handlebar. Double-groove handlebars have a second groove in the upper-rear of the top section. This is intended to receive the shift cable if you use Campagnolo Ergo brifters. The second groove is a nice feature if you use Ergos, but if you don't, it just makes the bars less comfortable. Unfortunately, a shockingly large number of new bikes come with double-groove handlebars but not with Ergo shifters. This is a really bogus arrangement, in my opinion.

"Anatomic" vs Traditional Bends Traditional drop bars are gracefully curved, and work quite well for most riders. The Italian company Modolo staged a bit of a marketing coup in the late 1980s with their so-called "Anatomic bend" handlebars. These have sharpish angles instead of gentle curves. Some people like the resulting positions, but many of us prefer the more versatile traditional curved designs. Drop Handlebars/Brake Levers Drop Handlebars/Brake Levers By: Bike Hermit® On: June 2, 2011 So, the question came up about which brake lever to use on a Nitto Grand Randonneur handlebar. That’s sort of a two part question. In order to answer it we need to delve into brake calipers. Some common brake calipers are: Cantilever The Center Pull Brake caliper Linear Pull a.k.a V-Brake The V-brake, sometimes called a linear pull brake. Stupid v-brake. It throws a monkey wrench into the whole works. Even though they work great and have fantastic stopping power, they use a different leverage than the others to work properly.

So whatever lever is used with these calipers, it needs to be v-brake compatible. “Drop” or “road” style handlebars are of a standard diameter at the point the brakes are meant to clamp to the bar. So any lever that looks like this will work: The Cane Creeek SCR-5 sports a wide, cushy grip- plus it has lizards! These are also called “aero” brake levers because, rather than exiting the top of the lever and looping over the handlebars, the cable and housing exit under the hood and run along the handlebar, under the wrap, for a nice clean look. Shimano brake levers.... clean look! Make the tops of the bars level with a smooth transition to the brake hoods, dangit. The Cane Creek and Tektro levers have a feature known as the Campy style quick release which is a button that releases the cable tension allowing the brake calipers to spread out to clear the tire when the wheel needs to be removed. It’s called Campy style because Campagnolo (Campy) brake calipers do not have quick releases.

Shimano aero brake levers don’t have quite as wide a hood which results in a more classic look. And they don’t have the quick release feature on the brake lever, again maybe not a problem since most brake calipers will have a quick release. The drop bar brake levers we sell will fit on any of the drop bars we sell. and they will work on the not-so-ironic moustache bars too. Just be sure, if you have v-brakes to get the Tektro RL520 v-brake version. The other standard levers will work with cantilever, side pull or center pull brakes. And finally if you’re replacing a handlebar or just the brake levers you might want to get a cable and housing kit to replace the old set.

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Handlebar Booties fit over your straight or slightly curved handlebars, brakes, shifters and cables and… [ more ] $60.00 - Polished silver finish - 6061 T6 aluminum - 560mm long - 45mm rise - swept back grip area (109 degrees) [ more ] Velo Orange Left Bank Handlebars $56.00 We went a bit wild with the Left Bank handlebar's design. It is a full 49cm wide, 7cm wider than a traditional French bar, but still narrower that many British/American-style bars. The grips flare outward a bit to appeal to the less restrained cyclist. Given its radical nature it can only be named… [ more ] Velo Orange Montmartre Handlebar $56.00 Montmartre is an area of Paris known for its cafes and artist's studios. The Montmartre bar is a very traditional French city bar. Like most traditional French bars, the Montmartre bar is narrow, 42cm center-to-center.

The streets of Montmartre are also narrow and it wouldn't do to knock over a… [ more ] Salsa Salt Flat Bar 3 $52.00 Get a grip on your off-road adventures with Salsa's Salt Flat Bar 3. This strong, lightweight aluminum handlebar features a slight 11-degree rise to put you into an aggressive, XC position on the bike. [ more ] Dimension Road Handlebar $45.00 - $50.00 Dimension Road handlebars are available in 25.4 and 26.0mm clamp diameters and have double grooves for cable routing. [ more ] Fyxation Rodeo Bullhorn Bar $47.00 - $50.00 The Fyxation Rodeo Bullhorn bar is great for urban pursuit or track racing. Made out of 6061-T6 aluminum, this straight bullhorn is rigid and is ideal for ripping through town. The Rodeo Bullhorn handlebar is available in a 40cm or 42cm width and comes in black, white and silver.

The Rodeo will… [ more ] Velo Orange Porteur Handlebar $49.00 You may remember that we used to sell NOS Belleri Porteur bars from France. Of course Belleri is long out of business, but hardly a day goes by without someone asking if we had just one last pair. So we decided to make our own Porteur bars. They are 48cm wide; reach is 14cm; grip area is about… [ more ] Velo Orange Postino Handlebar $49.00 Chris has owned a much-loved ancient Italian city bike handlebar for many years. It's a little like our Milan bar, but with zero rise. We've long wanted a similar bar, but with slightly longer grips. It's finally here and called the Postino bar after a wonderful Italian film. The Postino bar is… [ more ] Fyxation Rodeo Pursuit Bar $48.00 The Rodeo Pursuit bullhorn handlebar is the ideal replacement for cheap bars that come stock on most bikes these days.

Made of high end 6061 T6 aluminum, this ultra-strong handlebar provides a wide range of hand positions and a subtle 40mm drop for a comfortable and quick forward position. Whether… [ more ] More on Handlebars: Randonneur Model | Off The Beaten Path Off The Beaten Path Posted on November 25, 2010 by Jan Heine, Editor, Bicycle Quarterly My all-time favorite handlebar shape is the old AVA Randonneur: The Randonneur shape makes the “behind the hoods” position even more comfortable than the Philippe Professionel . When you look at your hand as you hold the bars, your palm forms a cup-shape. Well-designed Randonneur handlebars curve upward to fit into that shape perfectly. When we rode PBP on a tandem with these bars in 2003, my hands were in great shape after 52 hours on the road, even though I held onto the bars pretty much the whole time.

Here is a photo of the position “behind the hoods” with the Grand Bois Randonneur bars: The tops are not horizontal, but slope up from the stem, making the hand position on the tops (next to the stem) a little less comfortable. It’s a compromise: If you ride a lot behind the hoods, choose the Randonneur bars. If you climb a lot on the tops, the Professionel (or its modern incarnation, the Grand Bois Maes) may be better. I use both positions, yet I prefer the Randonneur. In the 1920s, even racers used this handlebar shape. By the 1940s, it was specific enough to long-distance cyclists that it was called “Randonneur.” When you look at the best bikes in Paris-Brest-Paris, at touring bikes equipped for long trips, or at tandems of that era, you usually see them equipped with the AVA Randonneur handlebars. The Randonneur handlebar shape is very subtle, and it’s important to get it just right.

Nitto’s Randonneur handlebars copy the general shape, but they do not support the hands well. In fact, I find the Nitto’s model (slightly) less comfortable than standard bars. The Grand Bois Randonneur handlebar is based on careful measurements of the AVA, and Grand Bois went through a lot of effort to get the shape right. Share this: Related About Jan Heine, Editor, Bicycle Quarterly Spirited rides that zig-zag across mountain ranges. Bicycle Quarterly magazine and its sister company, Compass Cycles, that turns our research into high-performance components for real-world riders. 12 Responses to More on Handlebars: Randonneur Model Colton November 26, 2010 at 8:37 am do u have pics of these bars from the front. im having trouble vizualizing them. y are yer bars so NARROW. i prefer wider bars. luv my 46cm drops. but wonder if some of those details (curves & ramps) might help. thx superfreak We’ll keep adding to the “handlebar posts” on the blog, and the next post will talk about width.

Brad November 26, 2010 at 3:35 pm I’m with Superfreak. Wide bars were a revolution for me. I got rid of all my narrow bars. They felt like I was ridding with my shoulders pinched together. Maybe has something to do with being 285 lbs I don’t know. I only know wide=comfy. Now I ride 48cm wide drops and 52cm wide mustache bars. Rob November 27, 2010 at 12:42 am I’ve noticed that the Philippe model is mostly used on 700c randonneurs, but they appear on some 650b bikes as well. These “Randonneur” type bars however seem exclusive to 650b machines, I can’t remember seeing them on 700c wheeled bicycles. Thinking about comfort I can guess why this happened, but it’s remarkable that the interchangeability of these bars doesn’t seem to go both ways. November 27, 2010 at 6:48 am Your observation matches mine (with a few exceptions).

I think this is easy to explain: By the early 1950s, racing influence was making itself felt among randonneur bikes. Riders who were influenced by racers preferred narrower tires (and thus 700C wheels). These riders also preferred the “Professionel” handlebars used by so many racers. Riders influenced by Vélocio and the Technical Trials continued to use wider tires (hence 650B wheels) and whichever handlebars fit their riding style (with a preponderance of the “Randonneur” model). Of course, there are no technical reasons why you couldn’t use “Randonneur” handlebars on a 700C bike, or “Professionel” bars on a 650B bike… Rob November 27, 2010 at 9:15 am On a 700c Dujardin bike that was missing its original handlebars, I mounted some period correct Philippe Randonneurs. It looked somewhat odd, as if the curvy handlebars required puffy tires to go with them. I realise this is nothing but cognitive dissonance.

Chris Lowe November 27, 2010 at 8:36 am I was among those skeptical about “narrow” bars. For years I’d ridden wide bars starting with the Nitto Dirt Drops that came on my ’87 B’stone MB-1. From there I went to 46cm wide bars on my road bike so as to better accommodate clip-on aero bars (I was big into triathlons at the time). 44-46cm bars became my normal for years after. In 2007 I started doing brevets in earnest and discovered that after 100 miles or so I’d develop a sharp pinching pain between my shoulder blades. I toted with various solutions to no avail. Eventually I picked up a pair of the GB Randonneur bars for a bike I was building up. I was skeptical about the narrowness and for a while was reluctant to take the bike out on longer distances. Eventually I started doing some 100+ mile rides on the bars and noticed the pinching pain was gone. The more I thought about the more I realized it was the wider bars that caused my discomfort.

As you move your hands further apart your should blades get pressed closer together. Now I swear by my “narrow” bars – especially for longer rides. Russell Marx I was taught that handlebar width should equal collarbone width. A wider width will cause your upper body to lean more forward. Distance from colorbone to handle bar decreases as hands move outward. Stuart December 1, 2010 at 6:30 pm Jan, since the Grand Bois Randonneur bars have a 20mm rise, do you set the stem 20mm lower to get the same effective ramps/hoods/drops position as compared to a non-rising bar? At first blush, it makes sense to me to do it that way (and maybe this is a dumb question) but I’m curious if there’s something I’m not taking into account. Of course the final determinant of the height is what it feels like on the road, but I’m thinking about finding a sensible starting point. Thanks! December 1, 2010 at 8:13 pm There are many factors that determine bar height and stem length.

The rise of the Randonneur handlebars make them higher, but they also have more reach, so when you ride on the hoods, you are more stretched out. Since you have more hand positions with these bars, I find that bar height isn’t so important. I also don’t shorten the stem for these bars to compensate for the longer reach… Most of the time, I ride in the relatively upright position on the ramps. If I want to go a bit faster, I move forward onto the brake hoods. If I want to go even faster, I go down into the drops. If that is too low, I slide my hands backward toward the rear end of the drops. (Shortening the reach brings my back up.) There are lots of positions which are very different, and I usually find one that works well. On many modern drop bars, the drops and on the hoods position are very similar with regards to the inclination of my back, so I really have only one position, plus the tops, which I use only when climbing. Stuart RELATED: MEMORIAL DAY BLOW OUT SALE! 25% OFF and FREE SHIPPING ON ALL BIKES. ORDER NOW BEFORE SUPPLIES RUN OUT!

I have created an easy understandable handlebar guide to show you the essential differences between each kind of handlebar. After reading this no-nonsense guide, you can probably cite "handlebar guru" in your resume. I even took a considerable amount of time animating that gif above so that this guide really feels like the best most complete guide out there. So let's get straight to it. I bring you the ultimate guide to bicycle handlebars. Handlebar Ratings As most seasoned riders know, a lot of this goes down to personal preference, however, it is essential to understand the natural tendencies of each type of handlebar. Comfort is defined by how it keeps your hands and body comfortable. Versatility is defined by the different types of biking styles you can use with it. Leverage is defined by how much power you can transfer to the pedals. Aerodynamics is defined by how it allows you to decrease wind drag. Control is defined how much lift and turning capability it gives you. 1. FLAT BARS Flat handlebars are the standard type of bars for most bikes. They are characterized with being completely flat although in most cases, there is a very slight bend towards the rider. They are very popular among cross-country riders due to their versatility.

You can essentially "put a lot of stuff on them" since it's just a straight bar. This simplicity also makes steering predictable and precise. PROS Versatile and simple - You can easily attach lights, brake levers, phone holders and other auxiliary biking equipment. It's also easier to fit different types of bar ends to provide extra hand positions and functions. Better for climbing - Another reason flat bars are popular among cross-country riders is it makes leaning forward easier. Moving your body towards the bike bar during a climb improves leverage and shifting your weight to the front improves the tire grip on the road. Better for tight spaces - Flat bars are typically narrow. This makes getting them through doors and corridors easier. Lighter and cheaper - If you like carrying your bike around, every ounce of extra weight counts. A flat bar's simple shape allows it to be stronger with less material. This equally makes it cheaper to manufacture and purchase. Less lower back load - If you have ongoing back problems, having your weight distributed evenly between the bike seat and the handlebar puts less pressure on your spine. Also make sure that your bike is properly adjusted. Check out our article on the 10 biggest biking mistakes to make sure your bike is properly balanced.

There are few other advantages of having flat handlebars, here is an interesting forum discussion about the nuances of using a flat bar for riding. CONS Not optimal for risky courses - Flat bars are not well suited for performing tricks and "free riding" on a bike. Riding over tough terrain and jumping over obstacles require a more upright position to give the rider more leverage for pulling the front tire. Not good for speed - It is very hard to go into a tuck position while using flat handlebars. 2. RISER BARS Riser bars are essentially flat bars that rise from the center clamp area. Risers are also typically wider than flat bars. These types of handlebars are commonly used in trail biking since it allows the rider to be more upright. Clint Gibbs made an informative youtube video on the advantage of a riser bars over flat bars for trail biking. PROS More control - A wider handlebar gives you more leverage. This make turning easier and require less energy. If you go through long winding roads with lots of debris, it's a good idea to use wide riser bars.

Better for wrists - In addition to the back sweep that gives a more comfortable grip, riser bars allow the rider to sit farther back allowing less weight to be distributed to the front. For people who have wrist problems, this will help relieve stress. Better for trail and free riding - The wider handle bar grip and weight distribution towards the back allows the rider more control making it better for riskier courses and rough terrain. You can give it negative rise - The higher handlebar would usually make it less suitable for climbing, but what some riders do is they flip the handle upside down to make it better suited for climbing. CONS More expensive - The additional rise requires more material to keep the bar strong and stable so they will be heavier and a little pricier than your typical flat bar. heavier than flat bars - If you use bike racks to transport your bikes, every ounce of extra weight counts. Wider handlebars - Despite giving you more control, wide handlebars make it more likely to snag tree trunks, twigs and other annoying things. This also makes bikes with riser handlebars harder to store since it will be harder to fit through doors and corridors.

Not good for climbing - With a normal set-up, riser bars are more difficult for tackling uphill rides. Bad aerodynamics - Similar to flat bars, it is difficult to tuck while using riser resulting in bad aerodynamic capabilities when against head wind or going for high speeds. 3. BULLHORNS Bullhorn handlebars are bike bars that curve up and forward. A pursuit handlebar is a slight variation to your typical bullhorn bar. A typical bullhorn simply curves forward and up. A pursuit bullhorn bar curves forward, drops down slightly and then curves back up again. PROS Great aerodynamics - Bullhorns are essentially flat bars that allow you to get lower when facing headwind or going at fast speeds. This makes it better than flat bars and risers for speed oriented biking such as track racing. Best bars for climbing - Flat bars gives your body room to move forward and up when climbing hills. Bullhorn bars not only give you room, but the horns allow you to move even further up and forward when climbing giving the rider the best possible leverage when pedaling uphill.

Pursuit bars are better for speed - Pursuit bullhorns have a drop in them allowing the rider to go into an even deeper tuck than you could with a typical bullhorn which makes it better for speed and leverage. They look badass - Not to mention, they are called bullhorns. CONS Not suitable for frequent tight turns - Despite the fact that bullhorns are functionally flat bars with horns, they are typically shorter than flat bars due to the spacing needed for the forward curve.This gives you less leverage when turning the handlebars. The extra front clearance also increases your chances of snagging something when going through tight paths. 4. DROP BARS Drop bars are very popular among bike enthusiast due to it's balance of great looks and versatility. Typical drops bars have a straight middle section similar to a flat bar with each end curving downwards and towards the rider. There are several types of drop bars defined by their reach (how far forward it curves), drop (how low the bars go) and width (how wide the bar is). Classics have a long reach and a deep drop. Compacts have a short reach and shallow drop.

Ergo or Anatomic drop bars are designed to feel more comfortable for the hand by varying the shape of the drop. Track drop bars have large radius curves that encourage the use of the "hooks" which is the preferred position of track bicycle racers. Randonneur bars have a shallow rise from the middle and the drops flare out. These are better for longer rides than other types of drop bars. Drop-in bars are essentially drop bars that curve back in to the head tube at the bottom of the drop. PROS Great aerodynamics - Drop bars allow the rider to tuck similar to bullhorns. If you are planning on doing a lot of track racing, investing in a good pair of drop bars is worth the time and effort. Highly versatile - A lot of riders add a brake hood to their drop bars which functions as an added bullhorn bar for some extra hand positions. A lot of people find brake hoods more comfortable for the hand than the flat bar because it keeps your hand at a neutral position. The addition of hoods also allow drops to functions as "miniature" bullhorns which makes them better for climbs.

Better leverage for pedaling - A lot of riders feel like they can exert more power to the pedals with less effort when in a tuck position. Good for bike enthusiasts - Flat bars are good for the typical biker who likes to just cruise and not much else. For a bike enthusiast who does general biking in the city on flat roads but occasionally wants to venture into some track type of biking, drop bars very much fit the bill. They look cool - Even though I personally find bullhorns the most attractive looking handlebars, I occasionally cheer for the drop bar team. CONS Not good for frequent tight turns - Similar to bullhorn bars, drop bars are not best suited for frequent tight turns. The hand positioning on the drops means your hand will hit debris before the handlebar. May not be good for trail biking - Although a good amount of trail bikers use drop bars, caution should be taken if you plan on using it for riding rough terrain since the position puts a lot of stress to the wrist. Riding drops on trails may exacerbate wrist problems such as ulnar never pains and carpel tunnel pain. 5. AERO BARS Aero bars or triathlon bars are primarily used for time-trial cycling where the rider competes alone against the clock.

Using two extended bars close together to grab unto with armrest pads to wrest the forearms, these bars put the rider into a narrow forward tuck position to further decrease air drag. PROS Superb aerodynamics - Even though the narrow tuck position can seem uncomfortable, if you are riding against the wind, descending or cycling above speeds of 27mph , assuming a more aerodynamic stance can work wonders. Can be used to rest your hands - Some riders set up aero bars not for aerodynamics but to rest their arms and wrists called the praying mantis position. Clip-on Aero bars - You don't have to ride exclusively with aero bars, aero kits can easily be added unto drop bars and bullhorns if you want the option to assume a very narrow tuck position. In fact this is the common way aero bars are incorporated into biking. CONS Can be dangerous - Aero bars put the rider at a disadvantageous position to react to unexpected turns and road obstacles. Despite being aerodynamically better, they draw the hands away from the brakes. Due to this, it is illegal in most group racing events.

Bad for climbing - The rider position when using aero bars makes it harder to apply power when pedaling, so it is not very good for climbing. 6. CRUISER BARS These are the types of bars you want to use while riding to the candy shop. They are also known as North Road or Upright handlebars. Due to its extreme sweep, these types of bars allow the rider to control the bike while sitting completely upright. PROS Superb comfort - The position of the handlebars puts the wrists in the most natural position while riding. Aesthetics - Cruiser handlebars gives your bike a very cute homely look that is very easy on the eyes. It's the type of handlebar you bring home to mom. Suitable for baskets - The swept back design of the handlebar not only leaves room at the front, but also keeps weight balanced even if you put a basket in front and fill it with groceries. CONS Need more seat padding - Since the handlebars encourage a more upright position, that also means more weight will be transferred to the bike seat. Using narrow bike seats with little padding would not be kind to your butt while using cruiser bars. Hills are your enemies - Cruiser handlebars are bad for climbing.

If you see a hill while riding a cruiser, you might as well walk. 7. BUTTERFLY BARS Also known as touring or trekking bars, These bars are designed for a wide variety of hand positions for long rides. It also provides a lot of shelf space for things you may need during long rides like mirrors, phones, maps and even bags. Here is an interesting article on "The Art of Bicycle Touring" by Neil Gunton that cites a lot of creative uses and modifications for butterfly bars. PROS Practical for long rides - The figure-eight handlebar virtually acts as a semi-stable shelf space to place items you may need quick access to during long rides. Better for the wrists - The irregular shape of the bar gives plenty of different hand positions one may need during a long ride. Better for shifters - If you use shifters, many riders declare butterfly bars as better version of flat bars because you can position the shifters right in front of your hands as illustrated here by an elated blogger . CONS Heavier - Since these bars have irregular curves and are generally used for utility, they are often heavier than most handlebars.

The huge amount of extra weight may not be a big deal to most, but, as previously stated in this article, those who travel with their bikes using mounted bike racks, an extra few pounds count. 8. HONORABLE MENTIONS The above are currently the most commonly used types of handlebars. If this was a typical handlebar guide we would stop right there, but since this titled "the ultimate guide" we will keep going to include all the other types of handlebars. BMX handle bars - These handlebars are equipped to handle a lot of abuse and gives the rider a very stable base even when a lot of weight is put on the handlebars. It is the type of bar most commonly used to perform bike tricks like these . H bars - These bars come in a variety of looped, bent and normal h-bars. These types of bars gives you even more hand positions, but makes putting brake levers and shifters a challenge. Ape hangers - These handlebars have such a high rise that the rider has to reach up to steer the bike. Due to its ridiculous specs, there had been some intense pressure from consumer advocacy groups to outlaw these types of handlebars that they are regulated in certain jurisdictions.

Despite how ridiculous it looks, I bet they make your armpits feel great. Porteur bars - A variation of the cruiser bar.This type of bar is designed to accommodate front mounted bike racks. An article by LongLeaf shows a custom porteur bike carrying a large (but not so heavy) package. Condorino bars - Originating from Italy during the 1950s, this handlebar has a very interesting shape that curves forward and then protrudes straight out. It oddly looks like an over-sized bottle opener. Whatton bars - These handlebars are used with Penny-farthing bikes . They are designed in such a way that riding a penny-farthing isn't a total suicide by allowing the rider to land feet first in case they need to bail. Mustache handlebars - These interestingly named bars are essentially drop bars with very little drop. Recumbent handlebars - These are handlebars often used with recumbent bikes . Know Yourself Biking is an efficient, cost-effective and healthy way to go from point A to to point B. It is also an expression of individuality because biking styles often reflect the personality of the rider i.e.

laid-back people would prefer cruiser handlebars while a hyperactive person like me would prefer a handlebar that can offer a lot of differing biking styles. Using a bicycle handle that makes you feel like you are one with your bike not only in terms of handling and performance, but also feels like an extension of yourself, is essential. In this road bike handlebar review I hope I have helped you find the perfect handlebar. Not only that, I hope the information contained in this guide enables you to enrich your overall biking experience. If you liked this article please consider sharing it on facebook, twitter, instagram, stumbleupon, pinterest or any social media platform of your choice. It helps us out a great deal. Also don't forget to bookmark this guide as future refrence when picking handlebars. Discover our full collection of affordable high end bikes. Follow us on Instagram , Twitter or like our Facebook page to hear more from us.

Question: Drop, Randonneur, Porteur, Aero and Moustache are types of bicycle what?
Answer: Handlebars