Using Spinnaker Sails for Cruising without the Drama! Site Guide Can Spinnaker Sails be The Cruisers' Friends? Racing skippers hoist their spinnaker sails at the first opportunity in wind strengths that would have me thinking about putting the second reef in. OK, they're normally fully crewed and we on Alacazam are usually just the two of us, but even so... We cruising types aren't looking to get to our destination before anyone else, but just to sail reasonably quickly, efficiently and in some comfort. But sailing dead downwind in light airs, nothing beats one of the conventional types of spinnaker sails. Much less stressful though, and almost as quick, is to bear up a little until the wind's not less than 20 degrees off the stern, and use an 'asymmetric' or 'cruising spinnaker'. Gennaker, cruising chute, asymmetric or multi-purpose spinnaker, essentially they're all the same thing, although I have heard the asymmetric spinnaker sail described as 'a cruising chute on steroids'...

The Difference Between Asymmetrics and Conventional Spinnakers One difference is the spinnaker pole; conventional spinnakers have them and asymmetric spinnakers don't. It's the pole that enables conventional 'symmetric' spinnakers to be squared off and set directly across the airflow, enabling them to pull the boat directly downwind. In the absence of a pole, asymmetric spinnaker sails have a tackline (rather than the 'guy' of a conventional spinnaker) which is lead back to the cockpit through a block at the stemhead. This means that the sail can be set to one side of the boat or the other, but not equally either side of the boats centreline. Consequently the luff and leech are different lengths on an asymmetric - the luff being the longer - which is why they're, er, asymmetric. Finally, the asymmetric has about 25% less area than conventional spinnaker sails, but still about twice the size of a 150% genoa. Asymmetric Spinnaker Sails This is what you need when the wind moves further aft and the lightweight genoa collapses, but you should never be tempted to fly it on its own as shown here.

Without being able to use a full main to blanket it, you'll have the devil of a job to get it down. Hoisted on the spinnaker halyard and controlled by a sheet lead through a block on the quarter, spinnaker-like performance can be had on all points of sail from a close-reach to a broad reach without any of the trauma. When close-reaching, the adjustable tack line is pulled down, tightening the luff and encouraging the sail to act more like a genoa. They're at the operating limit when the wind is on the quarter - any further aft and they'll be blanketed by the main and will collapse. It's very likely that the foredeck layout, and particularly the pulpit, won't have been designed with one of these sails in mind. There'll probably be nowhere ahead of the forestay you can attach a tackline block to - and if there is, the tackline will chafe against the pulpit or the bow anchor. Short Bowsprits for Asymmetrics All of these problems would be solved by a short bowsprit.

At least one spar manufacturer has recognized this and has produced a very neat device that's attached to a ring on the foredeck and is restrained by a collar fixed to the stemhead fitting. And as it's removable you won't get charged for it in marinas. Set further forward the sail will be operating in clearer air, and will be more efficient as a result. Selden Mast Ltd manufacture a short aluminium bowsprit kit for asymmetrics and a much more expensive carbon fibre version . Panel Design for Asymetric and Conventional Spinnaker Sails There are three designs for asymmetric and conventional spinnaker sails; all have radially cut heads, and each has a slightly different application: Starcut: a slightly flatter cut than the next two, and optimized for reaching. (This is probably the steroid version!) Radial head: cut fuller than the starcut, and with wider shoulders. More stable downwind than the starcut, but less so closer to the wind. Tri-radial: probably the best allrounder for most of us, easily trimmed and with an operating range of 70° to 160° of the wind.

If you're set on sailing dead downwind in light conditions and have a telescopic whisker pole to hand, there's no reason why you shouldn't pole out the clew and sail wing-and-wing. Alternatively, you could rig it as a conventional spinnaker as described below. Top-Down Furling Systems for Gennakers I like our gennaker - it's big, colourful and when I start to think about using it, it means we're off the wind and conditions are pleasant. On Alacazam we use a spinnaker snuffer as described below for our Gennaker - and very successful it is too. But undeniably, if there was a more convenient way of dragging the beast onto the foredeck, sorting all the snuffer lines out, hoisting it and doing the whole thing in reverse when I've finish with it - I'd go for it. Well, there is - and I definitely want one...

It's called a 'top-down' gennaker furler, and unlike standard luff-tape gennaker furlers, it allows the sail to fly free - restrained only at the tack and the head - and take up the curved luff and fullness that it was designed to. One of these makes deploying and dousing the gennaker much quicker and easier than a snuffer, as a result of which you'll find yourself getting much more use out of this great 'off-the-wind' sail. Read more about Top-Down Gennaker Furlers... Conventional Spinnaker Sails Unlike their asymmetric brothers, which are tacked to the centerline, the tack of a conventional spinnaker is attached to the end of a pole which can be squared-off to the wind. Now operating in clear air, unaffected by the mainsail, this sail will propel you dead downwind. Artwork by Andrew Simpson This performance benefit comes at the cost of complexity. Positioning the end of the pole at the correct position in space requires three control lines - a guy, a pole uphaul and a downhaul. The clew is controlled by a sheet lead through a block on the quarter.

In gusty conditions - where this sail's reputation for being unmanageable is usually gained - rapid adjustment to sheet and guy is required. If allowed to get out of control, heavy rolling can develop leading in all probability to a broach. A broach to leeward is no fun, but a windward broach (putting the spinnaker pole into the water and causing a crash gybe of the boom and mainsail) can have very serious consequences indeed. Many cruising sailors view all of this with a deal of trepidation, but others - often those used to inshore racing around the cans - gleefully drag out the spinnaker bag whenever the wind gets aft of the beam. Snuffers, or Sock, for Spinnaker Sails Whilst racing crews will launch their spinnaker sails ('throw the kite up', as they may nonchalantly remark) directly from the spinnaker bag and subsequently wrestle it to the deck at the leeward mark, we cruisers should give a collective vote of the thanks for the existence of the spinnaker snuffer.

Very much along the lines of a bottomless plastic bucket at the lower end of a canvas sock the whole shebang is operated from the foredeck by an endless rope. More details... Hoisting:~ Hoist the sail to its full height in the snuffer. Secure the tack line, then ease the sock line and trim the sheet. The snuffer will lift to the head as the sail fills. Dropping:~ Ease the sheet and haul on the snuffer line. Once the sail is secure in its snuffer it can be lowered to the deck. You are here: Sailboat Cruising > Sailboat Sails > Spinnaker Sails New! Comments SECOND HAND SAILS 4 SALE - used sails for sale At this time of year most of us are looking out our boat equipment - including sails - to see if they need replacing or just cleaned. If your sails are reasonably new then just taking them out of the sail bag and giving them a wash will do. However, for older sails that the sun has been baking down on all season after season, these may well need replacing. This could prove expensive if you decide to buy brand new. Thankfully, there are second hand sails advertised for sale that can be the answer to your problem.

Often these sails will have had little use. Sometimes these sails are replaced with new larger sails, so there is little wrong with them. If it is dinghy sails they are quite often rarely used each season; in fact they may be in as new condition! Those adverised here will no doubt have several photos for you to judge their condition. Also, you can contact the seller and ask plenty of questions about their use, age and condition. Make a list of between 5 and 10 questions you would like answers to, before contacting the seller. Once you are satisfied of the reply, then you should be confident of buying. This is the site for second hand sails for sale, cheaply and at bargain prices! At anyone time there are used sails of all types for sale at very low cost. Whether it is a mainsail for your boat or a foresail like a jib, genoa or spinnaker, they will be on this site for you to buy. Used sails are for sale for various reasons. The boat may have had a change of rig, or the sail has been replaced with one which has a heavier cloth.

Cheap sails do not necessarily mean inferior sails; perhaps the boat has been sold and the spare sails were not included in the inventory. This allows the owner to sell them onto someone who needs sails at a reasonable cost. Click on any of the 'Store Navigation' pages on the lefthandside to find sails for sale. Mainsails are sometimes replaced because the method of reefing them has changed. A yacht may have had slab reefing and changed to roller reefing or vice versa. The original mainsail will probably be perfectly useable for many years to come! Jibs are another sail that may be replaced for a variety of reasons. A change in the rig from sloop to cutter may mean that there is no use for that size of jib. Genoa are popular sails on yachts because they are so useful in light winds to move the boat through the water. As are spinnakers. Spinnakers add another dimension to sailing that those new to the sport are eager to experience. Often sails get torn and need repairing. You could take your torn sail to a sailmaker to repair. However, this could be expensive. You could buy a replacement sail cloth and ask for an experienced machinist to repair it.

The advantage of this is obviously the savings in cost. However, the disadvantage is that each sail is 'cut' in a particular way to give a certain shape. So be careful about how the replacement piece is cut and sown in. You could repair a small tear by yourself and buy a sailmakers tool kit ( palm, twine and needle). There are several books published on sail repairs. These books also describe how to make a sail cheaply with diagrams showing the parts of the sail and where it needs to be strengthened. Sometimes it is best to forget about repairing the sail and just replace it with a second hand or new sail of a similar size. Probably the reason the sail has torn is that it has deteriorated due to being left exposed to the sunlight. Always use a sail cover over the boom to protect the mainsail from UVA light that has the effect of making the sail cloth brittle and easily torn when under pressure from the wind. Use this site to find your replacement sail. There are many bargains that are advertised each day. So browse by clicking on any of the pictures and find more information about the sail. Remember these are bargain prices for quality used or second hand sails!

Parts of Sailboat Sails / Types of sails Next lesson -> Points of Sail/Sailing Directions Index: How to sail Jib - A sail that's usually triangular in shape attached to the bow or bowsprit that unlike a Genoa sail does not overlap the mast. MainSail - a tiangular or near rectangular sail that is the principal sail of modern sailboats, this is attached to the mast and boom . The trend is more to a rectangular shape with a large roach which gives more sail area higher up, this can however cause weather helm issues in stronger wind. Genoa- Also refered to as a jenny, it's a sail much like a job only larger and typically fuller, overlapping the mast of a sailboat . There is a percentage attributed to a Genoa for example 110% or 103% this refers to how much the genoa overlaps the mast . This sail is used in lighter wind than a jib. You can think of it as adding more power, one step up from a jib. Asymmetrical Spinnaker - A large sail typically flown from a bowsprit or poled out.

unlike a spinnaker this sail is not used to sail directly down wind but at a broad reach which can be more efficient than dead downwind. In addition attaching this sail to a bowsprit is much easier to handle than a spinnaker. Sail head- The head of the sail is top of the triangle this is attached to a halyard (vertical line (rope)) that is used to haul the sail up. Sail Tack - This is the bottom corner of the sail triangle forward. the tack is shackled to a point of the boat. On the bow or bowsprit for a fore sail or on the mast for a mainsail. Clew - Bottom corner of the sail triangle aft. This is the movable part of the sail and is held/positioned by running rigging (ropes that run horizontally) Luff, leech and foot - These are terms to name the edges of the sail's forward, aft and bottom, respectively. What Are the Types of Sails on a Sailboat? | eHow What Are the Types of Sails on a Sailboat?

beautiful sailboat image by Janet Wall from Fotolia.com A sail is a piece of material (typically canvas or another cloth) that is hung on or extended from a mast in order to catch the wind. For centuries, sail-power was the most trusted means of propulsion for watercraft, particularly when it came to long, open-water voyages. And while there are a variety of different sailboats, all with their own specific sail configurations, the vast majority utilize some or all of these basic sail types: mainsail, trysail, Genoa, jib, spinnaker and gennaker. Mainsail The mainsail is the most important (and largest) sail for most ships, as it is responsible for providing the majority of a ship's thrust. According to the website Sail Free, it is attached to the mainmast (the tallest, central mast) and kept taught by the boom, which is a pivoting spar or pole that controls the mainsails orientation.

Sailing crews will typically give the mainsail the most attention, as it constantly needs to be readjusted (or trimmed) in order to maximize (or reduce) speed, according to startedsailing.com Trysail According to the site Sail Free, during storms, sailors will often replace the mainsail with a trysail. The trysail is a small fore-and-aft sail---which means it runs parallel to the length of the boat---and is typically square or triangular. Instead of generating propulsion, the trysail is used to maximize control over a ship, and keep its bow pointed into the wind. Genoa The Genoa sail, named after the Italian city, is a large sail that is nearly as tall as a mainsail, only less wide. According to the website Started Sailing, Genoas are typically used as secondary sails, and are responsible for making turns and keeping ships on straight headings. Unlike mainsails, they are not connected to a boom, meaning they flow freer and are susceptible to collapsing if a ship is too close to an oncoming the wind.This makes Genoa Sails great indicators of wind direction. Jib A jib is a triangular sail that is very similar to a Genoa, only smaller.

Sailors rarely use jibs, but when they do, it is during periods of strong winds. During these instances, Genoas can actually provide too much thrust, and threaten to overturn vessels. Thus, sailors take them down and put up jibs, which help slow ships down. Unlike Genoas, which stretch from the front-to-back of mainmasts, jibs are positioned entirely in front of mainmasts. Spinnaker According to the site Cruise Charter, spinnakers (also called chutes) are large, billowing sails that are typically made from nylon. They are used primarily for sailboat racing, as they can trap a huge amount of wind and provide lots of propulsion. And while they are great on days with only light breezes, during strong winds they can be hard to control. Gennaker A gennaker is similar to a spinnaker in that it is large, and used primarily for sailboat racing. However, unlike a spinnaker, which is attached to the mainmast of a ship, a gennaker is attached (by its bottom forward edge, or tack) to the bow or bowsprit of a ship.

Rigging Small Sailboats - Chapter 2 .....rigs and sails FIG. 2-1-A MASTHEAD RIG has the forestay attached to the top of the mast. This GLEN-L 25 has a backstay, upper shrouds, and two sets of lower shrouds supporting the mast. The boat uses a main and jib for working sails, plus an optional Genoa sail. FIG. 2-2-A typical JIBHEAD RIG such as this GLEN-L 11 has the forestay attached to the mast at some point below the masthead. The mainsail on this boat, as well as those in FIGS. 2-3 and 2-4, is connected to the boom only at the clew and tack, making them "loose footed"; that is, not attached along the length of the boom. Everyone knows what a sailboat is and most people have heard expressions such as "sloop" or "ketch." These words describe the configuration of the sails and masts on the boat, and we refer to this configuration as the RIG.

Rigs have names which are defined by the number of masts the boat has; the number, shape, and locations of the sails; and sometimes by the position of the rigging on the boat. Most small sailboats under 25' have a single mast with one or two sails being used under normal sailing conditions. RIGS The SLOOP rig has one sail forward of the mast, and one sail aft of the mast. The stoop rig generally comes in one of two variations depending on where the FORESTAY (the wire which supports the mast from the forward side) joins to the mast. A MASTHEAD RIG, such as shown in Fig. 2-1, has the forestay connected to the mast at the very top of the mast (or MASTHEAD). A JIBHEAD RIG, as shown in Fig. 2-2, has the forestay connected to the mast at a point somewhat below the top of the mast.

So, when we see a single masted sailboat with a sail fore and aft of the mast and with a forestay that goes to the top of the mast, we call it a "masthead rigged sloop"; and when the forestay is below the masthead, we call it a "jibhead rigged sloop". FIG. 2-3 -The typical CAT RIG uses a single mast well forward with the sail located on the aft side of the mast as shown by this GLEN-L 10. The stays consist of two shrouds and a forestay. A boat with a single mast located well forward in the boat and only one sail, which is aft of the mast, is called a CAT RIG (Fig. 2-3). Do not confuse this term with "catamaran," which is a twin hulled boat, but which may also have a "cat rig." Depending on the design, the mast of a cat rigged boat may or may not be supported with wires (called "stays"; see Chapter 4). Figure 2-4 shows a cat rig with a mast not supported with wires, and is referred to as a "freestanding" or "unstayed" mast.

Another common rig used in small sailboats is the LATEEN RIG illustrated in Fig. 2-5. This rig uses a single mast, somewhat short, and usually unsupported with wires, onto which is attached two poles. A triangular shaped sail is then attached to these two poles, but not to the mast. The lower pole is sometimes not used, but the rig is still called a "lateen." The rigging of a lateen is usually very simple and uncomplicated. SAILS Sails can be considered the "engine" or power plant of the sailboat, while the rigging can be considered the "transmission," or the means by which the power is transferred to the boat to create motion. Therefore, to understand the rigging, it is necessary to know something about the sail configuration, because both work together as a unit. FIG. 2-4 -The GLEN-L EIGHT BALL dinghy uses a sock-type sail which slips over the mast. Because the mast is free-standing, no stays interfere with the sail along the mast. This boat is also called a "cat rig". Just about all small sailboat sails are triangular in shape, and the terms used in describing one will generally apply to all.

Modern sails are most often made of synthetic fabric, usually polyester (Dacron or equivalent). Some Nylon is used but it is considered inferior because it stretches too much in use, except for special sails such as spinnakers (see following). Sails in the past were made from cotton fabric, and may be to this day, but these require more maintenance and care. The sail of Dacron is virtually maintenance-free; just keep them clean and dry, and check occasionally for damage (see Chapter 11). Sails have names determined by their function and location on the boat. On boats which have only one sail, this sail is always called the MAINSAIL (the "main" sail on the boat). The lateen rig sail, while still a mainsail, is commonly called a "lateen" sail. Sloop rig sailboats have a mainsail also, and this is the sail located on the aft side of the mast. On sloop rigs, the sail forward of the mast is called the JIB, and the main and jib sail when used in combination for normal sailing are called the WORKING SAILS. The boat in Fig. 2-2 is under sail with main and jib working sails.

Sails other than working sails are sometimes used, especially when racing or cruising. Two of the most popular types are the GENOA jib and the SPINNAKER. The Genoa (commonly called "jenny") is actually just an oversize jib used to increase the sail area, and hence the performance of the boat. The boat in Fig. 2-1 is designed to use a Genoa jib. Sailboats under about 16' long seldom use a Genoa. The spinnaker is a parachute shaped sail (hence the nickname, "chute") used forward of the mast in place of the jib when sailing before or with the wind. Because the spinnaker is considered a "competition" item usually associated with larger boats, and requires specialized gear, it is beyond the scope of this book. ANATOMY OF SAILS The common triangular sail is best discussed by referring to parts OF the sail, and parts IN the sail, or the actual components used in the construction of the sail. Our discussion of sail anatomy is comprehensive, but note that not all sails will have all the items mentioned. Fig. 2-6 should be followed in the discussion of sail parts. Now for the parts OF a sail.

The LUFF of the sail is the forward part, or the part which is considered to meet the wind first. The LEECH is the aftermost part, while the FOOT is the lower edge of the sail. The HEAD of the sail is the topmost corner; the TACK is the forwardmost corner, and the CLEW is the aft corner of the sail. The ROACH refers to the up and outward curve in the leech of the sail. The amount of roach will vary with the sail. The lateen-type sail has little or no roach, while mainsails used on catamaran sailboats have considerable roach. Next, we will describe the parts built IN a sail. FIG. 2-5 -This GLEN-L BUCKBOARD uses a simple LATEEN RIG. The sail has a sewn-n sock along the luff at the clew to attach it to the tubular aluminum spars. No battens are used in the sail. This mast is also free-standing. To the beginner, the most obvious part built into the sail is the INSIGNIA and sometimes a group of numbers.

The insignia usually tells graphically what the name of the boat class is, while the number refers to the registration number given to that particular boat in the class organization. Obviously, not all sailboats belong to a class, nor do they all have numbers on the sails. Most mainsails have BATTENS built into them. These are semi-rigid thin strips, either of wood or synthetic material such as fiberglass or plastic, used to maintain the shape of the sail when underway. The battens fit into BATTEN POCKETS sewn into the sail. Battens in order to stay in the pocket can be tied in. A better type uses what is called a "lock-sleeve" pocket which makes it impossible for the batten to slip out, but can readily be removed so the sail can be folded. Battens are usually located at almost right angles to the leech, but sometimes one or two battens are located along the foot at right angles on LOOSE FOOTED mainsails and some jibs. A loose footed sail is one that is attached only at the tack and clew points along the foot. The boats in Figs.

2-2, 2-3, 2-4, and 2-5 all have loose footed mainsails. The position and size of the battens is usually determined by the sailmaker or the designer of the boat. Some sails, especially on certain catamarans, use battens which span clear across the sail. FIG. 2-6 -The "anatomy" of a typical set of working sails. The two dimensional drawing does not truly show the actual three dimensional shape which the sailmaker sews into the sail. This "shape" allows the sail to form correctly to the wind, even though the sail appears to be a flat piece of cloth. Other parts built into the sail are primarily those used to attach the sail to the rigging. At the head, tack, and clew, most sails have CRINGLES built in for attaching the sails. These are merely grommets which reinforce the sail at the hole. Most mainsails have extra sail reinforcing at the head of the sail and this is called the HEADBOARD. The strains on the sail at this point are great, and the headboard with a cringle through it distributes the stresses.

Several methods are used to attach the sails to the mast, boom, or rigging. The jib and Genoa are attached to the forestay in sloop rigs with HANKS or snaps (Figs. 2-7 and 2-8). These are special hooks or rings used to secure the sails to the forestay as well as allowing them to slide up and down. The hanks are usually sewn into the luff of the sail. Probably the simplest method of attaching the mainsail on lateen rigs, or in boats which have free standing masts, is by means of a "sock" sewn right into the sail which slips onto the spars. Two varieties of sock-type sails are shown by Figs. 2-4 and 2-5. The sock-type sail is limited to very small boats, but makes a neat and inexpensive sail. Also used on small sails are loops or line which fasten around the spars. FIG. 2-7 -Snap-type jib hanks sewn into the luff of the jib are used to attach the sail to the forestay. FIG.

2-8 -This type of jib hank takes just a twist of the wrist to secure it to the forestay. Larger jib sails usually do not use this type as they are not as strong as that shown in FIG. 2-7. On most boats, the mainsail is attached to the aft side of the mast in usually one of two ways. The first method is with TRACK SLIDES, pieces of hardware sewn to the luff of the sail at intervals of several inches, and which slide on a track fastened to the mast. A better and more common method is the use of a BOLT ROPE. This is a piece of rope the length of the luff and sewn right into it. The bolt rope fits into a groove built into the aft side of the mast. On sails which are not loose footed, this same bolt rope and groove can also be used for attaching the foot to the boom. Or, if track slides have been used on the luff, they too can be used on a track fixed to the boom. For details on spars (mast and boom), see the next chapter.

Learn to Sail Series – The Jib and Genoa Learn to Sail Series – The Jib and Genoa 2011 Leave a Comment Written by Grant Headifen In this learn to sail series article we’ll discuss the jibsail and the genoa, how they are used and their approximate set for the wind angle. Both the jib and the genoa can also accurately be referred to as the headsail because it is at the head (bow (front)) of the sailboat. It is called a jib when the foot of the headsail is shorter than the distance from the base of the forestay to the mast. It is called a genoa when the foot of the headsail is longer than the distance from the forestay to the mast. As with the mainsail, you can use the head sails at all points of sail from close haul (usually about 30-40 degrees off from where the wind is coming from) to a downwind run. Headsails are also referred to by number. A number one head sail would mean the largest genoa onboard the vessel.

You might also hear a number like 130 headsail which means that the foot is 130% greater that the mast to forestay base distance. So as you learn to sail, you’ll find the head sail is relatively easy to operate. The main controls are the two jibsheets. One on each side of the boat. The jibsheet that is on the leeward (downwind) side of the boat is referred to as the working jib because it is tensioned up. The windward jibsheet is referred to as the lazy jibsheet because it is not being used and is left loose. Many new sailors just learning to sail try to pull the lazy sheet tight, partly because it seems unnatural to have a line on a sailboat that is slack. The best position for a lazy sheet to be in is slack but ready to be tensioned by being wrapped around the winch in a clockwise direction one or two times. Another line attached to the headsail is the halyard. The halyard is the line used solely for hoisting and lowering the headsail. Even if the headsail is a roller furling headsail, it will still have a halyard to hoist it up.

One function of the head sail, which is not obvious to novices as they learn to sail, is that the head sail feeds extra wind to the back side (downwind side) of the mainsail. This provides extra lift function from the increased velocity of the wind being diverted by the head sail. This is explained more in our article which explains how sails actually work. The set of the headsail should follow the set of the mainsail. As you learn to sail more and more you’ll be able to expertly set the headsail according to the telltales mounted close to the leading edge of the headsail. However, for now, just set it according to how far away from the wind direction you are headed and according to this golden rule: Let the working headsail sheet out until you see the leading edge of the sail begin to fold in on itself then tighten the sheet up a little. This is actually a fairly accurate way of doing it and you’ll notice that the more away from the wind you steer, the more you will need to let out the headsail sheet. And in doing so, you’ll notice that it is mimicking the set of the mainsail discussed in another article in this series.

On a close haul, which is when the sailboat is steering 30-40 degrees off from the direction of the wind, the best position of the headsail is cranked in tight so that the sail is about 4-6 inches (10 -15 cm) away from the spreader bars on the mast. To some this may seem overly tight and it takes a lot of strength to get the sail in this tight. But alas, this is what will be required to stop the leading edge from folding in on itself. Headsails vary in size and are hoisted according to the wind conditions. As a general rule, you’d use a 150 genoa in winds up to about 10 knots. A 130 genoa to about 12 knots. A 110 genoa to about 15 knots. A 90 Jib at 20 knots. A 70 jib at 25 knots. A 50 jib at 30 knots. And a storm jibsail anything above 30 knots.

Headsails are either of roller furling type which are becoming more common, or are hanked on by clips to the forestay and raised and lowered each time. Roller furling head sails can not have horizontal battens which help control the airfoil shape of the sail. However some newer design roller furling headsails incorporate vertical battens which aids the shape. Raise and lower hanked on headsails are reefed by replacing the sail out with a smaller sail this takes time and some serious effort. Roller furling headsails are simply wound up to reduce the size of the sail. This however does create a large leading edge to the headsail which decreases the effectiveness of the sail due to spoiled wind at the leading edge. We’ll discuss the physics of how the headsail provides forward motion to the sailboat in a follow on article. For those just learning to sail, NauticEd has put together a free online basic sail trim sailing course. This learn to sail series is written by Grant Headifen, Educational Director of NauticEd. NauticEd is an online sailing school providing sailing education and sailing certifications to beginner through advanced sailors.

Spinnakers « Ian Short Sails | High Performance Racing and Durable Cruising Sails Spinnakers (Extracted and and adapted from an article by Ian Short, first published in Australian Yachting, September 2010) Good downwind performance can be the difference between being first across the line or being pipped at the post. It doesn’t matter if you’re a racer or a cruiser, the vast choice of spinnaker types and designs available today makes choosing the right spinnaker complicated. Choosing the right sail for the conditions is the difference between winning and losing, or between languishing out at sea and being safe on your mooring. We have Code O’s, asymmetric spinnakers for running and reaching, multi purpose spinnakers for cruising and symmetric spinnakers for running and reaching. To clarify the available choices, I have listed each spinnaker type with an explanation of its use. Building on this I will share some tips for trimming your spinnakers for optimum performance in a range of wind conditions.

The codes for spinnakers that are commonly available are as follows: Racing Symmetric Spinnakers Code 1 S (light running and reaching spinnaker) These sails are designed for very light winds and are normally manufactured from 0.5 oz spinnaker nylon. They are designed with a medium fullness and moderate head angle and shoulders so they fly easily in very light winds. You need to sail tighter true wind angles (TWA) to get the best performance from these spinnakers. The optimum wind range and angle for this design is 1 to 8 knots true wind speed (TWS) and 80 to 150 degrees TWA. Code 2 S (light-medium running spinnaker) These sails are designed for light to medium running and are normally manufactured from 0.6 oz spinnaker nylon. They are designed with maximum fullness and large head angle with big shoulders so that they fly with maximum projection and power. The optimal wind speed and angle for this design is 5 to 18 knots true wind speed and 170 degrees TWA.

Code 3 S (medium reaching spinnaker) These sails are designed for reaching and are normally manufactured from 1.0 oz spinnaker nylon or laminate spinnaker fabric for larger boats. This design is much flatter with a smaller head angle and less shoulders than a running spinnaker. The optimal wind speed and angle for this design is 9 to 24 knots true wind speed and 85 to 135 degrees TWA. Code 4 S (medium-heavy running spinnaker) These sails are designed for medium to heavy running and are a maximum are spinnaker. They are normally manufactured from 1.0 oz spinnaker nylon. Laminate spinnaker fabric is often used for larger boats. This design is full cut with a large head angle and big shoulders for maximum projection and power to help get the boat downwind fast. The optimal wind speed and angle for this design is 18 to 26 knots true wind speed and 130 to 170 degrees TWA. Code 5 S (heavy reaching spinnaker) These sails are designed for very heavy running because of their reduced size, flat shape and extra strong construction.

They are normally manufactured from 1.5 oz. or 2.2 oz. spinnaker nylon or laminate spinnaker fabric for the larger boats. The optimal wind speed and wind angle for this design is 25 to 35 knots true wind speed and 95 to 170 degrees TWA. Code Zero (reaching spinnaker) These sails have been around for about ten years and are now becoming very popular with racing sailors. The Code Zero is a spinnaker-genoa hybrid; designed to operate like a genoa, but considered a spinnaker under racing rules. The Code Zero helps a boat’s performance in tight reaching angles, especially in lighter winds by generating much more speed than a slightly eased headsail. We have found that these sails reach very well in a moderate wind and their shape and size make them a very effective heavy weather running spinnaker. We fit a low stretch Vectran line in the luff and the sail is tensioned quite firmly to get a straight luff (a lot like a genoa). It has a mid girth of 75% of the foot length so it measures as a spinnaker, but has a much bigger area than a genoa.

We design them to be quite flat for a spinnaker with a straight leach exit. They are normally manufactured from a laminate with Kevlar Spectra and Technora yarns for very low stretch. The optimal wind speed for this sail is 3 to 25 knots true wind speed and in lighter winds you can carry this sail up to 45 degree TWA. Racing asymmetrics Asymmetric spinnakers are becoming a lot more common as sail designs become increasingly refined, and improved handling techniques make using these sails easier than the conventional symmetric spinnaker. With the latest design advances we have found that the new 2A design runs as deep as a 2S Spinnaker and just as fas; This is mainly due to the 2A having a lot more area built into the luff, so when the sheet is eased the sail rotates to windward projecting much more of the spinnaker. On a reach asymmetric spinnakers perform better than symmetric spinnakers. They have a longer luff which lowers the centre of effort of the sail and a straighter leech exit profile. This allows the shape to exhaust much better, reducing sideways force and thus allowing the boat to sail faster.

Asymmetric sheet trim is much easier with tell tales Cruising Asymmetrics For cruisers, the ease of handling an asymmetric spinnaker, particularly when fitted with a sock, makes the asymmetric a no-brainer. Jibing is simple: you ease the sheet off as the boat is pulled awayuntil it is dead downwind then let it run and pull on the new sheet as the boat is coming up to the new downwind angle, so the spinnaker floats around the outside. When practiced two people can pull off this manoeuvre with ease. Hoisting and lowering the spinnaker is painless with a snuffer. Running with the newer designed asymmetrics is also easier because the newer designs allow you to sail much squarer than the older designs, even with the tack line off the bow of the boat. For most cruising boats we recommend a slightly heavier version of the 2A as a good all round, cruising spinnaker. Tweekers can assist in sheet trim. They should be placed near mid-way around the point of maximum beam.

Well-designed asymmetrics can be used from 95-170 degree true wind angle Well-designed asymmetrics can be used from 95-170 degree true wind angle Tweekers can assist in sheet trim. They should be placed near mid-way around the point of maximum beam. Cruising-racing Spinnakers For those sailors who want a spinnaker that is suitable for both cruising and racing, we recommend a 2S/2A and a 5S/5A, depending on the set up of the boat. These two spinnakers cover the majority of the 2-25 knot wind range, and if longer offshore passages are being considered or more performance is required, we’d recommend a 3S/3A. Notice how the lead boat’s sail is fuller in the head giving it more power than the red spinnaker behind it. Sails Trim Specialist Reaching Sails Specialist Reaching Sails One Design NEW Choose Your Weapon! Code Zero’s, the Hybrid A0, Spinnaker Staysail’s, Genoa Staysail’s and Jib Tops. This article will cover what you need to know about these sails and why they can be so beneficial to your racing campaign.

There are a few specialist sails that can make the difference between having a good race and great race. Trying to decipher the various sail codes and the different names used for these specialist sails can be confusing. We are going to look in detail at a few different sail options that can be added to your existing inventory and will help your performance by giving you an advantage over the competition. We’ll look at a few different sails that boats have added to their inventory and are now reaping the benefits. Code Zero Sails Code Zero The IRC Code Zero is technically a spinnaker and has a mid-girth which measures 75% of the sails foot length. The IRC rules states that any sail with a 75% (or larger) mid-girth is measured and defined as a spinnaker. The IRC Code Zero can be added to any sail inventory (as long as you don't carry more spinnakers than your IRC rating allows) without increasing the IRC rating. The IRC Code Zero has been developed for use in light winds for tight reaching (40 AWA), but these sails can often be versatile enough to be used in higher wind ranges between 80 and 90 AWA.

Because under IRC the mid girth has to be greater than 75% this means these sails to be able to perform in the conditions and at the angles that are required of them, they will have a slight flutter in the leech. This flutter or roundness in the leech if leech cord is applied may be seen as negative, but this is far outweighed by the performance gained by using one of these types of sails in the right conditions. If IRC is not your thing, then all we do is reduce the mid girth down to approx 60 to 65% percent which is enough to get rid of the flutter and make the furling process easier without losing any of the performance gain. North Sails offer various light airs tight reaching/upwind asymmetrical sails. Each sail is customised for the specific boat based on target wind angles, and the most suitable handling systems. The two most popular options for IRC and PHRF boats are the Hybrid A0 and the Furling Code Zero. The Furling Code Zero is straight luff (most commonly like a big genoa) sail set on its own independent furler and torsional stay.

The Hybrid A0 is usually a free flying sail (it can also be furling). Choosing between these two options depends on your rig/mast set-up, your existing sail inventory and the boat type. Both the Furling Code Zero and Hybrid A0 have there their own benefits. Your North Sails consultant can help advise you on the correct solution for your boat. Hybrid A0 A hybrid A0 at work The Hybrid A0 is more versatile than the Furling Code Zero because it covers a wider wind range. The Hybrid A0 concept combines the design characteristics of a light airs code zero and a North Sails A3 reacher. You can expect to use the sail from 0-25kts achieving 45AWA in light airs and 135 TWA in 20Kts +. The Hybrid A0 is usually designed as a free flying sail, but the design can also be tweaked to be able to be furled. The luff tension can be adjusted depending on the conditions or wind angles you want to sail and you could be furled or hoisted and dropped as if it were any normal asymmetrical sail tacking to your bowsprit or spinnaker pole.

Hybrid A0 sails are not just designed for Asymmetrical boats, boats using conventional spinnaker poles and symmetrical spinnakers can arguably see a greater performance increase by adding a reaching Hybrid A0 sail to the inventory. The Hybrid A0 allows boats to increase light and windy reaching performance without necessarily adding an extra spinnaker to their IRC rating certificate and under PHRF with a furler unit these sails are often faster and easier to handle than a Jibtop. A typical Hybrid A0 produced by North Sails is made from a lightweight laminated cloth which has a higher modulus than Nylon cloth. Nylon spinnaker fabric is not suitable for building Code Zero sails. Furling Code Zero Furling Code Zero North Sails’ Furling Code Zero is a specialist offshore sail initially developed for yachts with non overlapping headsails to generate extra power in light upwind/reaching conditions. The Furling Code Zero is in some ways less versatile than the Hybrid A0 because it is specifically designed for sailing is less than 10Kts. The big advantage of this sail is its ability to sail extremely tight angles in light airs.

The Furling Code Zero generates a lot of power in light conditions and is extremely good for any boat which would usually be underpowered on a reach in lighter conditions using non overlapping headsails. The ability to furl the sail is a big advantage, crews can quickly and easily deploy the sail or furl it away making it a very easy sail to handle. Any Furling Code Zero will require an anti-torsional stay attached to the furling drum and head swivel of the endless furling unit. The anti-torsional stay also needs to be strong with very little stretch as these sails generate immense loads. Being able to maintain a tight luff profile without damaging the fabric means the code zero lasts longer and will sail closer to the wind. North Sails have produced Furling Code Zero sails for a variety of boats over the last 12 years helping both fully crewed and short handed teams achieve some fantastic results. North Sails helped tailor an A35 sail inventory specifically for short handed sailing and a new Furling Code Zero made up part of that new inventory. We asked to here the owners views on the sail.

Spinnaker Staysails Spinnaker Staysail A Spinnaker Staysail is a small furling sail usually hoisted off the jib halyard. The staysail is tacked just aft of the headstay on the bow (it can also be tacked to weather) and generally used between 10 and 25kts for downwind sailing and it will enhance any boats downwind speed. These sails are commonly used on boats with both bowsprit configurations and conventional spinnaker poles with great success. Often, in windy downwind conditions you can leave the Spinnaker Staysail hoisted and furled, if the boat broaches you can quickly deploy the Spinnaker Staysail to help bring the bow down and the boat under control. It’s a commonly used technique and can save your spinnaker or asymmetric sail by regaining control of the boat faster. This can be especially useful for shorthanded crews. One more useful point to add is that the Spinnaker Staysail can also be used as a drifter/wind-seeker with the tack brought forward to the jib tack when the wind drops off.

Genoa Staysails Genoa Staysail The Genoa Staysail is a small jib (often furling) which is set inside the foretriangle and used for reaching above 8Kts. The primary purpose of the Genoa Staysail is to add power and speed to the boat when reaching. The Genoa Staysail works by helping to counteract the weather helm generated by reaching in more than 10kts and provides more balance on the helm when it’s set inside a Genoa, Jib, Code Zero, Jib Top or even the A5. The result is the helmsman uses less rudder angle meaning the average boat speed is higher with a staysail. The Genoa Staysail is most commonly used with a Jib Top or Jib sheeted on an outboard lead from 40 AWA. Once the jib car goes outboard, or is re-lead to the gunwale the Genoa Staysail can generally slot in the gap that results with good effect. In the Volvo ocean race the Genoa Staysail was the most used sail in terms of sailing hours.

For many of the boats in the last race it was up for nearly 50% of the racing hours. The Genoa Staysail can also be used in combination with a Code Zero or fractional A5 when the faster boat speeds move the apparent wind angle forward and load the helm. The Genoa Staysail is a very versatile reaching sail and is definitely worth taking into consideration for any offshore campaign. Jib Top A gibtop / staysail combination A Jib Top is a high clewed reaching headsail designed for beam reaching in medium to strong winds. Conventional headsails are designed with a lower clew which is optimized for close hauled sailing, as you ease the sheet of a conventional headsail and bear off you can loose control over the leech of the sail. The Jib Top design is based on sailing wider apparent wind angles and allows the trimmer more control over the twist and leech profile of the sail. The sail is usually sheeted using the spinnaker sheet which is “tweaked” to the deck using an adjustable purchase system. Its a faster sail on reach than your conventional low clewed Jib or Genoa. Good luck!

How to 5 Keys to Asymmetric Speed and Teamwork The reigning J/80 World Champion details how he makes his sprit boat go faster off the wind than the competition. By Kerry Klingler posted May 1st, 2002 at 12:00am Want to get more speed out of your asymmetric spinnaker and become more comfortable racing with this type of sail? It’s worth remembering, first off, that all your knowledge of speed with traditional symmetric spinnakers isn’t wasted when you get on a boat with an asymmetric. Several premises have proven to be fast under either kind of chute. At the top of your list is pulling the rig forward when sailing downwind. This alone can have a huge effect on boatspeed because it projects the spinnaker away from the mainsail into clearer wind. Ease off your backstay for starters. You might want to sight up your rig after easing it to ensure that you don’t ease it so much that you create reverse fore-and-aft bend (we call this "inverting" the rig). In most boats, you’ll find you can ease the backstay a lot before this happens.

To get the rig farther forward still, use your jib halyard to pull the rig forward. After the jib or genoa comes down, the bowman hooks the halyard to the tack fitting and grinds the rig forward. You’ll be amazed how much farther forward the rig will go. On boats that use roller-furling systems on their headsail, you can’t use the jib halyard for this, but after you furl your headsail, you can tension your jib sheets, which will pull the slack out of your headstay and cant the rig forward. On my J/105, I ease the backstay to the point where it’s very slack, then tension both jib sheets. This moves the top of the rig forward and snugs up the backstay. The second important technique to maximize downwind speed (which also applies to all types of spinnakers) is to trim your sails to further increase separation between spinnaker and mainsail. The trimmer’s goal should be to ease the sheet as much as possible, allowing the spinnaker to lift and float away from the main.

On boats with asymmetrics, heeling the boat to windward also helps the spinnaker separate from the main because it projects the luff to windward of the boat. This is why you see the top boats in an asymmetric fleet sailing downwind with the whole crew packed to weather. The third key is to pay attention to the trim of the spinnaker’s tack line. I often wonder why racers with symmetric chutes constantly adjust the topping lift, but then, with an asymmetric, forget to do the same with the tack line, since adjusting it has a similar effect. If the luff of an asymmetric becomes too bouncy or hard to control, tighten the tack line. This straightens the luff and moves the draft forward in the sail, and settles it down—which is why I like to have the tack line a little tight for a set or jibe because it fills more quickly. Peter McGowan It's easier to sail fast and low by easing the tack line, heeling the boat to windward, and projecting the luff of your asymmetric to windward. After we build speed and the pressure increases in the sail, we usually try easing the tack line to allow the chute to float away from the main and rotate to windward.

I like to call this effect on an asymmetric "opening the luff." When the luff opens and the sail lifts away from the boat, the upper sections of the luff are more pressured, and the luff flattens in curvature slightly. This is OK, because the spinnaker has pressure in it and remains stable while rotating to windward more and separating from the mainsail. Here’s a general rule for tack-line tension: if the tack line is angled to leeward or if the luff of the sail becomes unstable, tighten the tack line; if the tack line is angled to windward and you want to try to open up the upper luff, ease the tack line. The fourth important factor in downwind speed with an asymmetric is how you trim the mainsail. The primary rule is to avoid overtrimming the main. I check the trim simply by easing the main until the luff starts to break and then bring it in until it stops breaking. Vang trim is also important: On our J/105 at the Sailing World NOOD at Larchmont, N.Y. (our first regatta in my new boat), we were slow downwind.

I couldn’t figure what the problem was until we experimented with the vang tension, picking up speed by easing it more than we normally would aboard a boat with a conventional spinnaker. Weight placement is also important, and as I said before, the key move on our boat is to position the crew to windward to project the spinnaker. At the same time, we focus on our fore-and-aft weight placement. Several of the J Boats designs have very full bows and like the weight forward downwind. I’ve also found this to be fast in a lot of other boats. In Stars and Etchells, for example, you often see a crewmember in front of the shrouds. The goal in weight placement is to reduce wetted surface, but not to plow the bow too much or lose control. In a Laser, keeping your weight forward is fast, but you risk losing control and getting wet. The fifth factor that makes all the difference in speed downwind with an asymmetric is organizing your crew as a team. When sailing the J/80, each crewmember covers a key position, but on a larger boat, you can divide your crew to cover the same four areas.

The first position is that of the spotter/tactician, whose job is to help with the following critical decisions: First, the spotter keeps us all informed about the position and speed of our competition. Second, he provides me, the skipper, with information about our boat’s speed and angle relative to a specific boat or group of boats. He’ll say whether we’re lower or higher in angle and whether we’re faster or slower. The spotter also helps with tactical decisions, such as how to keep our lane clear and free from any wind shadows, and how to take advantage of windshifts or different sailing angles coming into the leeward mark. The second position is that of the spinnaker trimmer, whose main job is to help the skipper sail the boat at the optimum sailing angle for the best VMG to the leeward mark. The trimmer’s goal should be to keep the sheet as eased as possible without the luff of the sail breaking. An equally important job is to constantly inform the skipper of the pressure on the sheet and in the sail. I find the trimmer’s advice most helpful when he repeatedly suggests how much or how little pressure is in the sail.

He might say, for example, "I’m losing pressure on the sail, let’s try a little higher," or "I have a lot of pressure, let’s fall off a little." On bigger boats, the trimmer position becomes a team effort, with the grinder and trimmer working together to keep the sail in optimum trim while communicating with the helmsman. On asymmetric boats, being ready to jibe at any time is the key factor in attacking the racecourse. The third crew position is that of the No. 2 trimmer, whose job is to be sure that we’re ready as soon as the previous maneuver is completed. This includes the following: 1. the current spinnaker sheet must be free to run out smoothly and completely; 2. the second trimmer, on the new sheet, must be in a place from which the new sheet can be trimmed efficiently and quickly; 3. the new spinnaker sheet is clear of the bow pulpit and high up on the headstay (around 6 to 8 feet up is best), ready for a fast trim. During the jibe, the spinnaker trimmer working the old sheet stays with that sheet.

His job is to make sure the clew floats to the headstay and then to be sure that the pressure is off his sheet so the new sheet can be trimmed rapidly on the new jibe. The second trimmer pulls in as fast as possible on the new sheet in an effort to refill the spinnaker quickly. Right after the spinnaker fills, he’ll normally ease it again to set the trim properly on the chosen angle for the new jibe. The fourth job is the skipper’s—to sail the boat to the fastest VMG to the leeward mark. It’s his job to assimilate the information given to him by the trimmer and the spotter. Some skippers delegate the tactical decisions to the tactician; others make those decisions for themselves. What counts is that boatspeed and VMG are maximized while at the same time, the skipper defends the boat’s position on the racecourse. In summary, we work together as a team to get the boat down the run, just as you would with a symmetric kite. The skipper looks for constant feedback from the others. The trimmer focuses on angle assessment and pressure on the sail. The second trimmer makes sure we’re always ready for the next move.

And the tactician and spotter help keep the boat in the best position relative to our competition and the next mark. Here are a few other simple but important downwind tips: Before a race, get out early to develop a good idea of the conditions and wind angles upwind and downwind. When going into a windward mark, ask yourself if you’re on a lift or a header. That will help you decide which tack you want to take down the run—typically, the headed jibe. And use a hand-bearing compass to help sight the leeward mark and then determine when to jibe. Work hard to keep your air clear and avoid sailing under the fleet; in asymmetric boats it’s easy for boats behind to trap you and blanket you. And when you jibe, try to make every one of them count. Each jibe results in a loss in distance, so while you should take advantage of the shifts, don’t jibe just for the sake of jibing. In a J/105 on a 1.5-mile leg, two extra jibes will cost you at least four boat lengths. My final thought on asymmetric boatspeed and teamwork is that you shouldn’t be afraid to practice and try different things.

Use your speedo or GPS to help figure out the fastest way to sail. Also, record your downwind sailing angles. Besides building on your teamwork, this kind of practice will teach you to find these angles instinctively, which is invaluable when you’re trying to adjust to, or keep track of, the windshifts downwind during a race. Tags:

Question: Genoa, Jib, and Spinnaker are all types of what?
Answer: Sails