The Rules of Billiards and Snooker Game Categories The Rules of Billiards and Snooker The following is a basic set of instructions for the friendly play of the game of Billiards and Snooker including additional comments designed to assist with the understanding of the game. Note: 1 foot = 30.48 cm Billiards Equipment A full-size Billiards table measures twelve feet by six feet, one and a half inches and has a baize-covered slate bed. The four edges of the table feature rubber edges covered in baize called "cushions". Six "pockets" are situated one at each corner plus one at the centre of each long side of the table into which the balls can drop. The six pockets normally have a net or a small collecting channel to catch the balls. Two feet, five inches from one end, a line is drawn across the table called the "baulk" line. Any ball between the baulk line and the nearest end is generally referred to as being "in baulk". A semi-circle is inscribed within the baulk area with is axis as the middlepoint of the baulk line and with a radius of eleven and a half inches.

This semi-circle is termed the "D". At the other end of the table, twelve and three-quarter inches from the end cushion, a spot is centrally inscribed as a starting point for the red ball. The cue ball is struck with tapered sticks featuring a striking tip called "cues". The cue tips are chalked to prevent a slippery contact with the ball. There is almost always an additional accessory available called a "rest" which is like a cue with a cross on the end upon which the cue can be rested to extend its playing length. Quite often, a "full-butt" and a "half-butt" are also available - these are much longer rests with arched fixments on the end that come with their own long cues for playing very long shots. Billiards is played with one red ball and two white cue balls, one with a small black spot and one without. The Start A doubles game is occasionally played but the game is usually singles. One player chooses to play with the white cue ball and the other the spotted white cue ball. To begin with, players play their cue ball from within the D down the table so that it bounces back up the table and comes to rest in baulk.

The player whose ball is closest to the baulk cushion chooses to go first or second. Most players prefer to go second because the first turn occurs with only two balls on the table - a severe limitation. The game starts with the red ball on it's spot and the cue ball of the starting player placed in the D at the front of the table. Players agree how many points will constitute a game and the objective is merely to be the first to score than number. A typical number for expert players might be 1000 points - professionals regularly score more than this in a single break. Beginners might consider 150 as a more appropriate target. Basic Play Each turn is called a "break" and consists of a series of strikes of the cue ball that come to an end when a player makes a non-scoring strike or a foul stroke. Scoring is achieved by "potting" balls, by "cannons", and by going "in off". A ball is "potted" when the cue ball knocks it into a pocket. A "cannon" is when the cue ball strikes first one ball and then the other.

A player's ball goes "in off" when it falls into a pocket having first "kissed" (struck) another ball. Whenever the red ball is potted, it is immediately returned to the red spot for the next strike. Whenever the cue ball goes in off, it is immediately returned to the player who can position it anywhere within the D for the next strike. If the opponents ball is potted, it remains out of play until the end of that player's break. In this case, the opponent starts the next turn by positioning his ball anywhere within the D. Otherwise the opponent starts the next turn by striking the ball from wherever it ends up. Potting the opponents ball is usually to be avoided since scoring is much harder with only two balls on the table. Foul shots A foul occurs when a player's ball hits no other balls in which case 1 point is added to the opponent's score or when the player's ball goes directly into a pocket without hitting any other ball whereupon 3 points are given to the opponent. It will quickly be seen, however, that the size of these penalties are trivial compared to the injury suffered merely as a result of allowing the opponent onto the table.....

3 points for potting or going in off the red ball. 2 points for potting or going in off the opponents ball. 2 points for a cannon. Scoring is cumulative within a single strike so for instance, a common play is to both pot and go in off the red ball, thus scoring 6 points. The cue ball is deemed to go in off the first ball that it comes into contact with. So if the player strikes the opponents ball, cannons onto the red ball and then goes in off, 4 points are scored. The largest score possible in one strike is 10 points although, since this requires the opponents ball to be potted, it is is normally a bitter-sweet achievement. Special Situations When the player's ball finishes touching another ball, the red is put on its spot, the other player's white is placed on the centre spot, and the player must return his ball to the D. Snooker Equipment Snooker is played upon a Billiards table and uses the same cues and standard equipment.

Different balls are used, though - one white cue ball is used by both players together with 15 red balls worth 1 point each and 6 coloured balls worth differing points viz: Yellow - 2 points - initially placed on the right corner of the D as looked at from baulk. Green - 3 points - initially placed on the left corner of the D as looked at from baulk. Brown - 4 points - initially placed on the middle of the baulk line directly between the yellow and green balls. Blue - 5 points - initially placed slap bang in the middle of the table. Pink - 6 points - initially placed on a spot midway between the blue ball and the end cushion. Black - 7 points - initially placed on the spot used for the red ball in Billiards - twelve and three-quarter inches from the middle of the end cushion. The fifteen red balls are set in a triangle (using a special triangular frame) between the pink and the black balls so that the triangle points towards baulk with the red at the tip almost but not quite touching the pink ball.

In addition to the rest and the butts of the Billiards table, a three other special rests are sometimes available called "spider", "extended spider" and "swan neck". These are rests with special fixments on the end to gain additional height as well as length. The Objective and the Start The objective is to score more points that the opponent by potting balls and, less commonly, by playing snookers that will force the opponent to make a foul stroke and thus give points away. Players flip a coin to decide who goes first. To prepare for the first shot, the player concerned sets the cue ball anywhere within the D so that it can be aimed at a red ball. Basic Play Each turn is called a "break" and consists of a series of strikes of the cue ball that come to an end when a player makes a non-scoring strike or a foul stroke. While there are reds on the table, a break must always start by potting a red. When a red has been potted the player must next pot a nominated coloured ball (if it is not obvious which colour is being aimed at, the player is required to orally make this clear).

A coloured ball that has been potted after a red is immediately returned to the table on its home spot. After a coloured ball, another red ball must be potted followed by a colour and so on until there are no red balls left. After the final red ball and its accompanying colour have been potted, the balls must be potted in order starting with yellow and finishing with black. In all cases, the next ball to be potted or colour nominated to be potted must be the first ball struck by the cue-ball or a foul shot is declared. So when a player has next to pot a red ball, if a ball other than a red ball is struck first, it is a foul stroke. As soon as the break comes to an end the other player has a chance to make a break which must always start with a red ball if there are any left, regardless of how the last break ended. The cue ball must be played from where it finished after the previous shot unless it went in-off. Once all the reds have been potted breaks start with the lowest value colour and continue through to the black ball. Points are scored according to the value of each ball potted.

Snooker is not all about potting balls - very often it is more advantageous to play safe by putting the cue ball into a position such that the the opponent will find the next shot very difficult to play or to score from. Whenever a player is not able to directly play the ball to be struck with a straight shot, that player is said to be "snookered" on that ball. In this case the opponent is required either to swerve the white ball around another ball or to bounce the cue ball off one or more cushions in order to hit the target ball. With either type of shot, it is difficult to judge the outcome and so the player who engineered the snooker has a good chance either of winning points because the opponent plays a foul shot or at least benefiting from a good position for the next turn. Common Foul shots A foul shot is declared in any of the following scenarios. The cue-ball strikes first a ball other than the next ball to be potted or the colour nominated to be potted. Whenever the cue ball goes in-off (into a pocket) or leaves the table. The ball is placed anywhere in the D by the next player before the next strike. Whenever an incorrect ball is potted.

For instance, if the red is being played but the blue ball gets knocked into the pocket. The player who committed a foul stroke receives no points for that stroke even if a legitimate ball was potted and the break is over. However, any points made in the break prior to the foul shot are kept. Whenever a foul stroke is committed, the opponent receives some penalty points viz: If the ball being played is the black or the foul occurred because the black ball was struck first incorrectly or potted incorrectly, then seven points are forfeited. If the ball being played is the pink or the foul occurred because the pink ball was struck first incorrectly or potted incorrectly, then six points are forfeited. If the ball being played is the blue or the foul occurred because the blue ball was struck first incorrectly or potted incorrectly, then five points are forfeited. Otherwise four points are forfeited. Where more than one foul occurs in one stroke, only one penalty applies but it is always the largest applicable penalty. So if a red is being played and the player misses hits the yellow first, pots the green and goes in-off, only four points are awarded to the opponent.

However, if the brown is being played and the player hits it first but accidentally knocks it onto the pink ball which falls into a pocket, six points are awarded to the opponent. Some rules apply to the turn following a foul stroke viz: After any foul shot, the player who would normally play next may choose to allow the fouling player to take the next shot, instead. If, following a foul shot, the next player is is snookered, that player may take a "free ball". In this case, the player has the option to play any ball on the table as if it was the ball that should properly be played next. Thereafter play continues normally. So if a free ball occurs on a red, the player may play any colour as if it were a red, after which a coloured ball is nominated. The shot after that would be on a red ball if available - the yellow otherwise. If a free ball occurs on a coloured ball after all the reds are potted, the player will attempt to pot any nominated ball and the next shot will revert to the lowest value ball. Less oft-used rules If the cue-ball ever comes to rest touching another ball, a "touching ball" is called.

If the ball being touched is the ball to be played or is nominated as such by the player, then the player is counted as having played the ball already. Regardless, the player must play away from the ball in order to avoid playing an illegal push shot. Sometimes a coloured ball that has been potted after a red cannot be returned to the table on its home spot due to being covered by another ball. In this case, the spot of the black is used or, if that is not available, the pink spot and so on down to the yellow spot. If none of the spots are available, then the ball is placed on an imaginary line through the black and pink spots as close to the black spot as possible from the end of the table. Less common foul shots are listed below: If the player plays a "push shot". This happens if the targeted ball is close to the cue ball and the cue tip is still in contact with the cue-ball when it strikes the target ball. In the case of a "touching ball", the player must play away from the ball - if it moves then it is a push shot and a foul.

If the cue-ball hops over the ball being aimed at, this is deemed a "jump shot" and is a foul stroke. If the cue-ball is struck twice. If a ball is touched before it has finished rolling. If the player strikes the cue ball without at least one foot touching the floor. The End Eventually all balls except the black have been potted. At this stage, if the difference in score is more than seven points, the game ends since it is only sporting to assume that a player will not miss a direct shot and so there is no way for the losing player to win. Otherwise, the last ball is potted in the usual way. If the game is drawn, then the black is re-spotted and the cue ball is moved to and played from anywhere within the D. The players flip a coin to decide who plays first and play continues. The player who pots the black wins the game. At any point during the game a player can resign the game. A player would normally resign when the score is such that even with all the balls and two or three snookers he would not overtake the other player.

The Simplified Rules of Billiards in one page | englishBilliards.org The Simplified Rules of Billiards in one page The Simplified Rules of Billiards in one page These simplified rules are for you to get started and be able to enjoy a game. Scoring Billiards is played with 3 balls, a red, white and yellow. Each player has their own cue ball (one white one yellow). There are three ways to score: In-offs, pots or cannons. In-offs occur when your cue ball hits one or more balls and then enters a pocket. A pot occurs when any ball other than your cue ball enters a pocket. A cannon occurs when your cue ball hits both of the other balls. Cannons are always 2 points. Apart from cannons any score off the red is 3 points and off the opponent's ball is 2 points. All fouls are 2 points. Where the balls go When you go in-off you get your cue ball back and it can be placed anywhere in the D. When the opponent's ball is potted it stays down and you do not get it back.

When the red is potted it goes on it's spot (the spot nearest the top cushion), but after 2 successive pots off this spot it is placed on the middle spot; if you then pot it again it is placed back on it's own spot and you are allowed 2 more pots of the spot etc. Baulk The line next to the D is called the baulk line and when you are playing from the D you are not allowed to hit a ball behind the baulk line, directly. (A ball is considered IN BAULK if it is either on the line or more than half of the ball is in baulk, over the line) If your opponent pots your cue ball and then leaves the red and his cue ball behind the baulk line, you are 'double baulked' and can not aim for the balls direct - in this case you would play off one or more cushions out of baulk first. Starting the game The red is placed on the Billiards spot and one player takes their cue ball and plays from the D, normally playing a safety shot; this is called the break off. The opponent then plays from the D.

Spotting the balls After your opponent commits a foul you have the option of having the balls spotted (opponent's ball on middle spot, red on it's spot, cue ball in D). The Rules of Bar Billiards Game Categories The Rules of Bar Billiards Bar Billiards, also known as Russian Billiards is widely played across the South of England and in the Channel Islands. Being a traditional pub game without any national governing body, variations of equipment and rules abound. Where there is doubt, locally played rules should always apply. Note: 1 foot = 30.48 cm Equipment A Bar Billiards table is similar to a small Billiards table and comes with seven white balls and one red ball. The typical English game is most traditionally played on either a Sams or a Jelkes table which is 33.5 inches wide x 56-56.5 inches from spot to far corner. Sometimes, you see a thinner version of the Sams table that would not conform to most leagues - 30 x 60 inches. The tables more commonly used in the Channel Islands are made by Burroughs and Watts are believed to be 34 x 69 inches.

Instead of pockets, holes are sunk into the table; 5 in a row across the far end of the table and four set in a diamond pattern in the rear half of the table. The nearest hole to the front, worth 200 points, has a black skittle in front of it which must not be toppled. Next up are two holes near the sides of the table that are each worth 50 points. Then there is a hole worth 100 points in the middle of the table. The holes across the end of the table score 30, 20, 10, 20 and 30 respectively (on some tables, the configuration is 10, 20, 30, 20, 10). Finally, there is a spot in front of the 200 hole for the red ball and a baulk line across the width of the table near the front with a small D extending forwards from it. The skittle arrangements can vary but the black skittle always lies in front of the 200 hole and forfeits the entire score if toppled.

Skittles are either thin pins with a bar through the top to prevent them falling into a hole or mushroom shaped. Here are all known arrangements: 1 black, 2 white or red. The white/red skittles forfeit only the current break score if toppled. The white/red skittles are usually positioned either side of the 100 hole. 1 black, 2 white, 1 red. The white skittles are sometimes positioned either side of the 100 hole but more commonly, in this difficult variant, positioned in front of the 50 holes. They foreit the current break score if toppled. The red skittle is positioned in front of the 100 hole and like the black skittle, forfeits the entire score if toppled. 1 black, 3 reds in front of 100 and 50 holes. This option usually features the mushroom shaped skittles. The red skittles forfeit just the current break score if toppled. The rules below assume either the first or last option but the middle option is played in the same way except that the red skittle also forfeits the entire score if toppled.

When a ball falls into a hole, it rolls back underneath the table to rest in one of the compartments in a trough at the front. The score for each hole is noted by the hole and is also shown above each trough compartment. Balls in a trough or behind the baulk line waiting to be played are referred to as being "in baulk". The Start A flip of a coin decides who starts. The game starts with the red ball on it's spot. The player to start takes a white ball from the trough at the front of the table and places it in the D for the first strike. The game is normally played by 2 people but can also be played by 3 or 4 players. Basic Play Each turn consists of a number of strikes and comes to an end when a player makes a non-scoring strike or a foul stroke. A strike is taken by the player taking a white or red ball from a trough at the front of the table, putting it within the D at the front of the table and then hitting it with the cue. Normally, players will pick the red ball if it's available because this gives double points.

The aim is to strike another ball on the table in such a way that at least one ball ends up rolling into a hole. If this is achieved, the player continues his break with the next ball. Any white ball that falls into a hole scores the number of points indicated by that hole. If the red ball falls into a hole, it scores double the points indicated by that hole. A foul is committed by: knocking over a skittle causing a ball to return back behind the baulk line failing to hit any other ball with the cue ball causing a ball to leave the table. In all of these cases, the player's turn finishes and any points scored in that turn are lost. Additionally, if the black skittle has been knocked over, the player's entire score for the game is reset to zero. At the end of a players turn, any balls on the table surface remain where they are and the next player begins his turn by retrieving a ball from the trough, placing it in the D and striking it up the table. Less oft-used Rules If there are no balls available from the trough with which to take a strike, the ball nearest to the baulk line is retrieved instead.

If a skittle is knocked over and a ball prevents it being replaced, the ball should be returned to baulk. If a ball comes to rest in the D, it should be returned to baulk. If a skittle is moved but not knocked over, the skittle should be returned to it's spot before the next strike. Where a strike causes both a white and a black skittle to be knocked down, if the black skittle was toppled first, the black skittle penalty is taken (entire score is reset to zero); if the white skittle was toppled first, the white skittle penalty is taken (that turn scores nothing). Finishing Normally, the games are coin-operated and each coin gives a game of a certain length of time between 15.5 and 19 minutes. After that time, the baffle-bar drops inside the table which prevents potted balls from returning to the trough at the front of the table. Once that happens, play continues as described above but the number of balls in play gradually decreases.

Sometimes, the last 2 or 3 balls are all potted in one strike in which case the game ends at that point but, more usually, the time comes when there is only one ball left. The Final Ball If it happens that only one ball remains, a special rule comes into force. Before it is struck, the two white skittles are placed into the 50 holes and the top holes are guarded to prevent the ball being lost into any of those holes. Then, the game can only be ended by a player hitting the ball from the D in such a way that it bounces off the side cushion and falls into the the 100 hole or 200 hole. Needless to say, the risk of knocking over the black skittle while attempting to achieve this feat is significant. Players take turns to do this until either the ball is successfully potted in the 100 hole or 200 hole or else the game is forfeited because the ball falls into a different hole or the black skittle is knocked over.

If the final ball strikes one of the white skittles, this is a foul and if the ball should then enter the 100 or 200 holes, the game is forfeited. Of course, in the case where the difference in points is greater than 200, there isn't much point in continuing because the leading player can avoid going anywhere near the skittles and be guaranteed the win. Technically, the game isn't finished until the last ball is sunk but it is normal in this case for the losing player to offer his hand and concede the game. Variations Alternative rules and table variations abound. The time of the game can be set from anywhere between 5 minutes and 20 minutes, the number of balls and skittles can vary. Values of holes can differ as can precisely where the skittles are located. Some rules state that the red ball is always placed back onto it's spot each time it is potted. Others have a spot for the first white ball too. Some rules say that the last ball can only be potted in the 200 hole.

Dart Game | Dart Games | Darts Rules | Rules For Darts | How To Play Darts Below are the rules to some of the more popular dart games. The equipment needed to play darts is as follows: A set of three darts , either soft-tipped or steel-tipped. A safe, well lit place to play. Dartboards The standard international dartboard is known as the "clock" board. It is 18 inches in diameter and has 20 numbered, pie-shaped segments of equal size, plus the bull's-eye. Number of Players: Two individual players or two teams. Numbers in Play: 20,19,18,17,16,15, and bull's-eye. The objective shall be to 'own'/'close' certain numbers on the board, and to achieve the highest point score. The player/team to do so first, shall be the winner. Each player/team shall take turns throwing. (Three darts in succession shall constitute a 'turn'/'Inning'.) To close an inning, the player/team must score three of a number. This can be accomplished with three singles, a single and a double, or a triple.

Number of Players: Any number of players may play, but normally two individuals or two teams play. Numbers in Play: All the numbers are in play, but some receive greater use than others. The 19 and 20, for instance are used extensively for scoring points since they are the highest numbers on the board. All the numbers may be used to throw the necessary doubles in the game. This game is generally played by two people but can be played by teams. Each player starts with 301 points. The goal for each player is to reach zero, excatly, by subtracting the amount they score in a turn from the amount they had left from the previous turn. Number of Players: Any number can play, but it is unusual to have only two players or two teams (like the game of baseball itself) Numbers in Play: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 , 7, 8, 9 Rules of Play: This game is similar to the actual game of baseball. Players try to score as many points as possible per inning in order to win. >>> More About Baseball Number of Players: Any number can play, but Killer is most fun with three or more players.

Numbers in Play: The numbers used are determined by the players. Each player throws one dart with the "opposite" hand. (e.g., right-handers throw left-handed) to determine randomly his or her own number. If a player misses the board or hits a number already taken, he or she throws again. Rules of the Game: Each player first tries to hit the double of his or her own number. When this is acheived, the player is known as a "killer" and a K is placed after his name on the scoreboard. Number of Players: Any number can play, it is sometimes played with a dozen or more players. Numbers in Play: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 Rules of Play: Players take turns throwing at the numbers 1, 2, and so on, in sequence, until 7. They try to score as many points as possible per turn (using all three darts). >>> More About Shanghai Number of Players: Any number can play Numbers in Play: All the numbers on the board are used, but players generally concentrate on the 19 or 20.

Rules of Play: After determining the order of the play, the first player attempts to get the highest score possible and notes it on the scoreboard. >>> More About Legs Number of Players: Any number can play Numbers in Play: All the numbers on the board are used, but the score of every three- dart turn must be divisible by 5, so the commonly aimed-for numbers are those divisible by five: 20, 15, 10, 5. (Also called "Round the Board" or "Once Round the Island.") Number of Players: Two players Darts: Three each Rules of Play: The object of this popular game is to be the first player to hit every number on the board from 1-20. Any part of the number - single, double or triple - counts. >>> More About Round the World Number of Players: Two players or two teams Numbers in Play: All numbers are used but since each score must exceed 40 the higher numbers especially 20 are the favorites. Rules of Play: One player becomes the batter, and the other is the bowler; the batter goes first. Ten stripes are entered on the board as wickets.

Billiards vs Pool - Difference and Comparison | Diffen Billiards vs. Pool Diffen › Sports Both carom billiards and pocket billiards (pool) are cue sports . Billiards as a general class of games is played with a stick called a cue which is used to strike billiard balls , moving them around a cloth-covered billiard table bounded by rubber cushions attached to the confining rails of the table. Carom or carambole billiards (often simply called "billiards" in many varieties of non-British English) is a type of billiards in which the table is bounded completely by cusions, and in which (in most variants) three balls are used. Pocket billiards,most commonly called "pool", is a form of billiards usually equipped with sixteen balls (a cue ball and fifteen object balls), played on a pool table with six pockets built into the rails, splitting the cushions. The pockets (one at each corner, and one in the center of each long rail) provide targets (or in some cases, hazards) for the balls. The two types of billiards have developed into a wide array of specific games with widely divergent rules, and require equipment that differs in some key parameters.

Skill at one type of billiards-family game is widely applicable to the other, but expertise usually requires at least a degree of specialization. A few games such as English billiards are hybrids, using carom balls on pocket tables, and snooker, a non-pool-based pocket game, also uses such tables. Comparison chart (97 ratings) History Billiards as a class of games dates back to the 15th century, and (like golf) evolved from lawn games similar to croquet. Pool in its modern form dates to the 1800s, but variants of pocket billiards tables are known from the earliest days of billiards. Goal The object of the game is to score either a fixed number of points, or score the most points within a set time frame, determined at the start of the game. The goal of most pool games is to use the cue ball to pocket object balls, sometimes from specific groups of balls, in a specific order, or in specific pockets. An exception is Russian billiards, in which points are scored for pocketing the cue ball. Balls Billiard balls usually come as a set of 2 cue balls (one colored or marked) and 1 red object ball.

Some games call for 2 object balls and 2 cue balls. Pool balls generally come in sets of 2 suits (usually stripes and solids, but reds and yellows sometimes) of 7 object balls each, an 8-ball and a cue ball. (Not all games make use of the suit markings/colorings, nor all ball in the set). Ball size Billiard balls are 61.5 mm (2-7/16 in.) in diameter and weigh the same, between 205 and 220 g (7.23 – 7.75 oz.) Internationally standardized pool balls are 2.25 in. (57 mm) in diameter and of the same weight. British-style balls are 2 in. (51 mm), and may feature a smaller, lighter cue ball. Table A standard carom billiard table has a playing surface of 2.84 by 1.42 m (9.3 by 4.7 ft.), though some American models are 10 by 5 ft. (3 by 1.5 m). Some games, such as English billiards are played on tables as large as 12 by 6 ft.

(3.7 by 1.8 m). A standard pool table has a playing surface of 9 by 4.5 ft. (2.7 by 1.4 m), although smaller 8 by 4 and 7 by 3.5 ft. and even smaller models are common in homes and bars/pubs. Larger 10 by 5 ft. versions were common until the 1920s. Cloth The table is covered with a finely-woven cloth called baize, normally made of 100% worsted wool. The cloth is traditionally green, representing the lawn that the ancestral games were played on. Today, many colors are available. The table is usually covered with baize. The home and bar/pub market often calls for blends and even 100% synthetics, and has driven the demand for a wide array of color choices and even prints (e.g. team or company logos). Rack No rack is used in most carom billiards games. A triangular rack is used to arrange the object balls at the beginning of the games of eight-ball, straight pool, and many others, while a diamond-shaped rack is used in nine-ball.

Cue The game is played with a stick called a cue, which developed from a golf-club-like implement called the mace by the mid-1800s. Modern billiard cues have leather tips, are usually wooden, are often hand-made, and may have inlaid or other decorations. As with carom billiards, but pool cues on average are a little longer than carom cues, and have slightly smaller tips. Amateur league play has spawned a market for mass-produced and reasonably inexpensive but attractive cues. Most common game Three-cushion billiards: The player must use a specific cue ball to contact one of the other two balls on the table, at least three rail cushions, then the remaining ball in order to score. Likely to become an Olympic sport. Eight-ball: Each player vies to claim a suit, pocket all of the balls in that suit, then legally pocket the 8-ball, while denying one's opponent opportunities to do the same with their suit, and without pocketing the cue ball. The top amateur game. Second most common game Straight rail billiards: Essentially the same as three-cushion, except that only one cushion must be contacted between hitting the first and second target balls.

Nine-ball: Played with object balls 1 through 9. There are no suits. Players attempt to either pocket the balls in numerical order, or use the lowest-numbered ball remaining on the table to pocket the 9-ball in a combination shot. The top pro game. Other notable variants Four-ball: Uses an additional object ball; popular in Japan and Korea, and formerly the US. Five-pins: Uses 5 skittles in the center of the table as additional point-scoring targets; popular in Italy, Spain and parts of South America. Snooker: Played with smaller (and additional) balls on a much larger table, and specific balls have specific point values; popular in the British Commonwealth especially. Straight pool: Played with 15 balls, no suits, 1 point per ball; a US classic. Definition Carom billiards is a type of cue sport played with a cue stick which is used to strike billiard balls on a pocketless billiard table. The term is also sometimes applied the all cue sports as a class, or to specific games such as English billiards.

Pool or pocket billiards is a popular variant of billiards played with a cue stick with usually 16 balls (or a subset thereof) on a pool table with 6 pockets. Contents: Billiards vs Pool 5 References History Cue sports evolved from ancient outdoor stick-and-ball games, generally referred to (retroactively) as "ground billiards", a game similar in various respects, and closely related to, modern croquet, golf and hockey. Billiards has been a popular game since the 15th century which is evident through its many mentions in the work of Shakespeare, including the famous line "let us to billiards" in Antony and Cleopatra (1606–07), the wrapping of the body of Mary, Queen of Scots, in her billiard table cover in 1586, the dome on Thomas Jefferson's home Monticello , which conceals a billiard room he hid, as billiards was illegal in Virginia at that time; and through the many famous enthusiasts of the sport including, Mozart, Louis XIV of France, Marie Antoinette, Napoleon, Abraham Lincoln, Mark Twain and many others.

Carom billiards was long the most popular type of billiards, and remains an important international sport. Carom games, especially three-cushion, are intensely popular in many parts of Europe, Asia and the Pacific, and Latin America. In former times, extremely complicated and difficult carom games such as 18.2 balkline were played in world championship bouts by players whose skill was so immense that the serious playing field often consisted of only 4 major players for decades at a time, some of whom could literally score over 1000 points, one shot at a time, in series. The carom world opened up in the latter half of the 20th century and grew to its current level of much broader international competition with the rise of three-cushion billiards and its greater difficulty (a run of only 25 points in a row is considered exceptional). Along with snooker and perhaps nine-ball (see below), three-cushion is expected to become an Olympic sport within perhaps a decade. The most common pool game, eight-ball is derived from an earlier game invented around 1900 and first popularised in 1925 under the name B.B.C. Co.

Pool by the Brunswick-Balke-Collender Company. The forerunner game was played with seven yellow and seven red balls, a black ball, and the cue ball. Today, numbered stripes and solids are preferred in most of the world, though the British-style variant (known as eight-ball pool or blackball) uses the traditional colors. Eight-ball, in one variant or another, is played world-wide, is played by millions of amateur league players, and draws intense competition at professional and amateur tournaments using the WPA World Standardized Rules. However, the most intense competition in pool is in the game nine-ball, which has been the professional game of choice since the 1970s, with the decline of straight pool (also known as 14.1 continuous). Nine-ball grew in popularity because of its speed, the increased role played by luck, and its suitability for television. Today there is some indication that the more difficult variant ten-ball may supplant nine-ball in pro play, but nine-ball is likely to remain the most popular gambling game for many years, and eight-ball the most popular recreational and amateur team one.

Differences in Equipment Balls Billiard balls vary from game to game, and area to area, in size, design and number. Though the dominant material in the making of quality balls was ivory until the late 1800s (with clay and wood being used for cheaper sets) , there was a need to find a substitute for it, not only due to environmental issues but also because of the steepness in the cost of the balls. This search led to the development of celluoid, the first industrial plastic, and balls have been made of various plastic compounds ever since, from now-obsolete materials such as bakelite, to modern-day phenolic resin, polyester and acrylic. Carom billiards balls are larger in size than pool balls, and come most often as a set of two cue balls (one plain white and one colored or marked) and a red object ball (or two object balls in the case of the game four-ball, known in Japanese as yotsudama ).

Internationally-standardized (sometimes called "American-style" or "Kelly") pool balls, used in any pool game and found throughout the world, come in sets of 16, including two suits of numbered object balls, seven solids (1-7) and seven stripes (9-15), a black 8-ball and a white cue ball. "British-style" balls (actually used in many areas outside of the UK, including Ireland, Australia and sometimes New Zealand, as well as various European countries) are slightly smaller, and come in unnumbered suits of reds and yellows. The balls are arranged differently depending on the game; usually in a triangular rack, although a diamond shaped rack may be used in the game of nine-ball. The pocket billiards offshoot snooker requires smaller balls, and several additional balls with special point values. Some unusual pool games such as baseball (named after the field sport) require additional balls, while other rare variants like poker pocket billiards, use an alternative ball set. Tables There are many sizes and styles of carom and pool tables. With the exception of some variants of bumper pool, and some novelty tables, all billiard tables are rectangles that are twice as long as they are wide.

Quality tables have a multi-slab slate bed over which the cloth (baize) is stretched. Less rigid materials are prone to game-affecting changes due to humidity, and even permanent warping, as well as other problems. The international standard for carom billiard tables is a playing surface (measured from rail cushion to rail cushion) of 2.84 by 1.42 meters (112 by 56 in., or 9.32 by 4.66 ft), +/- 5 mm, though many (especially American) tables for amateur use are 10 x 5 ft. The slate bed of profession-grade billiard tables are usually heated to stave off moisture and provide a consistent playing surface (a practice that has actually dated for centuries). Most pool tables are known as 7-, 8- or 9-footers, referring to the length of the playing surface's long side. The internationally standardized size for professional play is 9 by 4.5 ft. (274 by 137 cm). In former times, 10 by 5 and even 12 by 6 ft.

tables were common, but today these are used only for the highly diverged pocket billiards variant snooker (a major international sport in its own right, and not considered a form of pool), the carom-pocket hybrid known as English billiards ("billiards" in British English almost always refers to this game), and some other regional variants, such as Russian billiards and Finnish kaisa (both of which are played with balls even larger than carom balls, and very tight pockets). Ten-foot pool tables mostly date from the early 20th century back, but can occasionally still be found in older pool halls. Pool tables as small as 6 by 3 ft. are available for homes and cramped public spaces, but are not commonly preferred (nor are even smaller sets with miniaturized equipment). Snooker (and English billiards) tables use smaller pockets, baize with a directional nap, and rounded pocket entrances.

Cloth The beds and rail cusions of all kinds of billiard-type tables (carom, pool, and snooker) are covered with a tightly-woven, napless cloth called baize , generally of worsted wool, although wool-nylon blends are common and some 100% synthetics are in use. Baize is principally a Commonwealth term, with "cloth" being preferred in North American English. It is often erroneously referred to as "felt". Blends and synthetics are more common in the bar/pub market (they are more durable, but slow the balls down, and many serious players eschew them). Faster-playing 100% woolen cloth is most commonly used on home tables and in high-end billiard parlours and pool halls. The cloth plays faster because it is smoother, thinner, more tightly-woven, and less fuzzy, providing less friction and thus allowing the balls to roll farther across the table bed. Billiard cloth has traditionally been green for centuries, representing the grass of the ancentral lawn game. Some have theorized that the color may serve a useful function, as (non-color-blind) humans allegedly have a higher sensitivity to green than to any other color.

However, no known studies have demonstrated any noticeable effect of cloth color on professional or amateur play. Today, billiard cloth is available in a wide array of colors, with red, blue, grey and burgundy being very common choices. In recent years cloth with dyed designs has become available, such as sports, university, beer, motorcycle and tournament sponsor logos. There is no core difference between carom and pool cloth. Serious players of both types of cue sports generally prefer fast cloth, as it requires less force when shooting, allowing a more accurate and "finessed" stroke, and better ability to control cue ball speed and thus position. Rebound angles off of cushions are also more accurate with faster cloth, and a tighter, thinner cloth retains less moisture. The principal difference is that the vast majority of pool tables encountered by the general public (i.e. in taverns and average pool halls) are considerably thicker, coarser and slower, with the result that average recreational players have little understanding of the finer points of the effects of fast cloth on the game, and tend to shoot too hard when on fast cloth.

Snooker cloth, on the hand, has a notable directional nap (except on most US-based tables, which use napless cloth), and compensating for the effect of this nap on ball speed and trajectory is an important element in mastery of the game. Racks Carom billiards games do not make use of ball racks. Depending upon the specific game in question, the balls may be released randomly, or set in very specific positions at the beginning of the game. In most pool games, the object balls are tightly racked (placed within a usually wooden or plastic ball rack and moved into position) at a specific location on the table (which can vary from game to game). In internationally-standardized games such as nine-ball and eight-ball, the apex ball of the rack (the ball pointing toward the end of the table from which the opening shot will be taken) is placed on the foot spot, a spot (marked or otherwise) that is at the intersection of the lateral middle of the racking end of the table and its longitudinal center, and the game-winning ball is in the center of the rack. (In many games there may also be other racking requirements, such as the 1-ball at the apex).

In some regional versions, such as the British eight-ball variant known as "eight-ball pool" (itself becoming internationally standardized under the new name "blackball"), the game-winning ball, again in the center of the rack (or pack, in British English), must go on the foot spot. Some pool games, such as "Chicago", are not racked at all, but as in many carom games have specific spotting locations for the balls. Snooker makes use of both tactics, with the pack of 15 "reds" being racked much as in pool, and the special "colour balls" each having certain spots assigned to each. There are two main types of racks; the more common triangular type which used in eight-ball, fifteen-ball, straight pool and many other games, and a diamond-shaped one, is used in a nine-ball game (for convenience; nine-ball can easily be racked up in a triangular rack, and most venues do not provides diamonds for racking). Special hexagonal racks are available for seven-ball, but the diamond rack can actually be used, sideways, for racking this game.

Cues All cue sports (with the exception of cueless offshoots known as finger billiards and hand pool) are of course played with a stick known as a cue (often redundantly referred to as a "cue stick"). A cue is usually either a one-piece tapered stick, commonly called a "house cue", or a two-piece personal cue intended to be carried in a case. The butt end of the cue is of larger circumference and is intended to be gripped by the player's shooting, while the narrower cue shaft, usually tapering to an 10 to 15 mm (0.4 to 0.6 in.) rigid terminus called a ferrule , where a leather tip is affixed to make final contact with balls. Cues can be made of different varieties of wood depending upon the cost factor; usually a cheap kind called ramin is used in lower-quality cues, while hard rock maple is one of the more common woods used in quality cues.

Traditionally hand-crafted cues are often spliced with various decorative hardwoods, and further decked out with inlays of attractive and/or valuable materials such as silver, ivory (today usually harvested from mammoth tusks, as elephants are protected) and semi-precious stones. The basic nature and constuction of cues of all sorts is essentially the same, but due to the enormous increase in numbers of amateur league players since the mid-1980s, a large market has emerged, and continues to develop and specialize, for relatively inexpensive, mass-produced pool cues. In recent years, the array of available options has mushroomed, and cues are now available that look like hand-crafted cues to anyone but a collector, or with football team logos on them, or dragons and skulls, floral patterns, and many other options. Some have a high-tech appearance and are designed with modern materials and techniques in ways similar to high-end golf clubs. There are various cue aids. Chalk, which comes in hard, often dyed, paper-wrapped cubes, must be periodically applied to the tip of the cue during every game to prevent miscuing, especially when attempting to impart spin to the ball.

The mechanical bridge, or bridge stick, is a cue-like stick with a head on it upon which the cue can be rested in a groove or crook; this is used to give support to the cue in shots not reachable by or too awkward for the bridge hand. A tip tool or scuffer is an abbraisive or micro-puncturing hand-held tool that is used to prevent the tip from becoming too hard and smooth from repeated cue ball impacts to properly hold chalk. Hand talc (also sometimes mislabeled "chalk") or a pool glove may be used on the bridge hand to keep the stroke smooth; this is especially helpful in moist environments. Carom billiard cues are typically a couple of inches shorter, and thicker at the tip, than pool cues (and even more so than snooker cues), but the exact dimensions are a matter of player preference. Personal (non-house) carom and pool cues are both typically jointed at the half-way point in the piece, while snooker cues most commonly are 2/3 shaft and 1/3 butt, requiring a longer carrying case.

Carom cue ferrules and tips are most often approximately 13.5 to 14.5 mm in diameter, while pool tips average around 12.5 to 13.5 mm in diameter, with snooker tips at typically 10.5 to 11.5 mm. Many skilled pool players prefer to shoot with a snooker-sized tip, but few professionals do so, including the former snooker pros who have long dominated women's nine-ball. Carom cues most often have a ferrule of brass, although fiberglass is becoming more common, and fancy hand-made cues may have an ivory ferrule. Pool cues usually have a ferrule of fiberglass (or plastic, in cheap models), although metal was formerly very common along with ivory. Most snooker cues have a brass ferrule. Two piece carom and snooker cues usually have a wood-to-wood joint, often even featuring a wooden pin and threads, on the principle that this produces a better feel, while pool cues most often have a metal joint and pin, since pool games tend to involve considerably more force, necessitating reinforcement.

Carom (and snooker) cues are more often hand-made, and are more costly on average than pool cues, since the market for mass-produced cues is only particularly strong in the pool segment. High-end hand-made but non-custom carom and snooker cues are largely products of Europe and Asia, while their pool counterparts are mostly North American products. The bulk of machine-made cues are sold by American brands, but are outsourced from non-US labor pools. It should be noted that in the extreme carom discipline known as artistic billiards (and its pool equivalent artistic pool and trickshooting, as well as in trick shot snooker), a master practitioner may have 20 or more cues, of a wide range of specifications, each customized for performing a particular shot or trick. Aims of the Games The aim of virtually all carom billiards games to amass a predetermined score (25, 50, 1000, etc.) before the opponent does so, or amass a greater score than the opponent within a predetermined about of time.

In most such games, one successful shot earns one point, with no penality for a miss, but some games, such as Italian five-pins, provide various different scoring and fouling opportunities. Some pool games work on the principle of a point per ball up to a pre-set score (14.1 continuous or straight pool, for example), while others have point-scoring systems based on the number shown on the ball, lowest-score wins systems, or last-man-standing rules. The most popular pool games today, however, are "money-ball" games, in which a specific ball must be pocketed under particular conditions in order to win. The most popular pool game in the world (but unfortunately the one with the least consistent rules from area to area) is eight-ball, in which each player attempts to pocket a particular suit of balls, and then finally the 8-ball. In nine-ball and its variant seven-ball, there are no suits, and each player must always shoot the lowest-numbered ball on the table first, and either attempt to eliminate all of them in turn to pocket the namesake money ball on the last shot, or use the lowest-numbered ball in some way to pocket the money ball early.

A game increasingly popular among professionals is ten-ball, which is played with the same core rules, except that (in the internationally-standardized version) the 10-ball cannot be pocketed early for an easy win. Some games combine aspects of both carom and pocket billiards. English billiards is played with carom balls on a snooker-sized table with larger pockets, and there various ways to earn different amounts of points. Russian billiards is played with even larger balls, pockets barely large enough to admit them, and the goal of pocketing the cue ball by caroming it off of numbered object balls into a pocket to earn the point value of the numbered balls struck. Differences in Rules The World Pool-Billiard Association in concert with the Union Mondiale de Billard (UMB) and various other governing bodies have established worldwide rules for a number of carom billiards games, including three-cushion, straight rail and five-pins. While there are, of course, locally popular games of various sorts that differ from region to region, the main games in the carom field are totally standardized. In the realm of pool, there are many associations which have issued rules for the various games over the years.

Eight-ball in particular is a thorny issue. WPA and its regional and national affiliates like the Billiard Congress of America (BCA), professional tournament series like the International Pool Tour (IPT), and amateur leagues like the Valley National Eight-ball Assocation (VNEA, which despite its name is multi-national) and the American Poolplayers Association/Canadian Poolplayers Association (APA/CPA) all have different rulesets. By far, most professional pool players use the WPA/BCA rules, and while some progress has been made moving league rules toward the WPA standard, some such as the APA/CPA have wildly diverging rulesets for eight-ball. Meanwhile, millions of individuals play informally using colloquial rules which vary not only from area to area but even from venue to venue. Nine-ball, on the other hand, has been the paramount gambling and tournament pool game for several decades, and has globally almost completely standardized on the same rules in both professional and amateur play. Snooker has long since also been completely standardized, as has been English billiards.

References Shuffleboard Game Rules | McClure Tables on all orders over $70 Shuffleboard Game Rules Shuffleboards Game Rules - Information on how to play shuffleboard including rules and instructions on how to keep score in the most common shuffleboard games. Video:How to Play Shuffleboard: Scoring a Game of Knock Off Common Shuffleboard Game Rules Have you ever wondered how to play shuffleboard? Here are the most common shuffleboard rules that generally apply to most games. The rules usually require that you alternately take turns sliding, by hand, all 4 of your weights against the ones from your opponent. Try to make it to the highest scoring area on the shuffleboard without falling off the end of the board into the alley. In order to earn points your weights need to be the farthest down the board. Some of the strategy and fun really comes into play when you knock off your opponents' weights, outdistance them or use your weights to protect your other highest scoring weights. Usually the most common games are played either to 15 or 21 points. The sections below cover the shuffleboard game rules for the most famous (and fun) shuffleboard games. We hope you find these game rules helpful for enjoyment of your McClure Shuffleboard table.

Shuffleboard Game Rules Scoring: EXAMPLE: If a Red Weight is the most distant Weight from the playing end at the completion of a round, Red becomes the winner of the round, and only Red can score. To determine Red’s score, total the value of each Red Weight that lies ahead of the leading Blue Weight. Red Weights which are either blocked or which lie behind the leading Blue Weight are not scored. If there are no Blue Weights remaining on the board, all remaining Red Weights are scored. Knock Off Shuffleboard Rules: Knock Off shuffleboard is one of the simplest and most common ways to play the game. However, just because the rules are simple to remember does not mean the game is easy to play. Any game of shuffleboard can be improved with patience and strategy, and this one is no different. Learn more about the Knock Off Game Rules . Horse Collar Shuffleboard Rules: Need a high scoring affair? Horse Collar shuffleboard is played one-on-one or with teams, and the winner must score 51 points. With a fun betting element for those who can’t score and huge shots worth 26 points, Horse Collar is a game that everyone will be wanting to play.

Learn more about the Horse Collar Game Rules . Tap & Draw Shuffleboard Rules: Unlike Knock Off participants, Tap & Draw players who get to shuffle the first puck have the best advantage. Tap & Draw is played and scored similarly to other versions of the game, but there is one major difference. In Tap & Draw, you can attempt to send your own puck farther up the board by tapping it with another one of your pucks. Learn more about the Tap & Draw Game Rules . Crazy Eight Shuffleboard Rules: As far as physically throwing the pucks and keeping score, Crazy Eight presents a version of shuffleboard that is pretty similar to many of the classic games people play. However, Crazy Eight is a fun and challenging version of shuffleboard due to the way that points are actually scored. Learn more about the Crazy Eight Game Rules . Target Shuffleboard Rules: Just like darts, archery and rifler, this shuffleboard game gives you the chance to aim and shoot at a target. With hopes of scoring one, two, three or four-points, use your skills to shoot for a target and bring home the winning game. Only the winner scores in each round, so choose your play wisely. Learn more about Target Game Rules .

We hope you find these game rules and tips helpful for enjoyment of your McClure shuffleboard table . Shuffleboard Tables: Getting Started To help you get started, here is a quick list of everything you need to know about shuffleboard tables: How do I play shuffleboard? Learn how to play shuffleboard in this helpful article. What are the rules? And how to I keep score? Here is information on shuffleboard rules and keeping score in the most common shuffleboard games. Which shuffleboard table is best for me? Read our Shuffleboard Buyer’s Guide . Are McClure Tables really high quality? Don’t take our word for it, read what our customers have to say about our tables. Is it hard to maintain a shuffleboard? Here is everything you need to know for proper shuffleboard maintenance . Snooker for beginners - Snooker rules and refereeing Snooker rules and refereeing Simplified rules for beginners Table at start of game: as depicted above. To remember the order of the colours in the "D" area, think of "G"od "B"less "Y"ou for Green, Brown, Yellow as you look at them from the end of the table.

Ball Terminology: * Cueball - the white ball, the only ball that you may hit with the cue * Red - red in color, there are 15 at the start of the game * Colour - one of the six balls that are neither red nor white Ball values: Pot - to put a ball into a pocket (and have it stay there) Foul - to do something against the rules Snookered - to be unable to roll the cueball in a straight line and hit the ball chosen. Ball ON - the ball you intend to hit with the cueball Fundamentals: 1 - You hit the cueball so that it, in turn, hits another ball and hopefully pots it. 2 - You must not pot the cueball When there are still red balls on the table: 3 - Your first shot on every turn must be to hit a red with the cueball 4 - If you pot that red (red is the ball ON), then you score 1 point and your next shot may be on any of the colours (be sure to say which one you have chosen). The red stays in the pocket.

5 - If you pot that colour (which is now the ball ON), then you score the value of the colour and your next shot must be a red. The colour goes back on its own spot. If it doesn't fit on its spot, then it goes on the highest valued spot available. 6 - If you fail to pot, or if you foul, then your turn is ended and your opponent gets to try 7 - continue with red-colour-red-colour until all reds are in the pockets When all red balls are gone: 8. Balls are pocketed in this order - yellow(2), green(3), brown(4), blue(5), pink(6), black(7). They stay in the pocket. Foul Rules: 1 - Once struck, cueball must make contact with ball ON first otherwise, foul is committed 2 - If your cueball does not hit anything on the table, your opponent may choose to take the shot or turn the table back to you 3 - If you commit a foul and your opponent is snookered on all balls ON, he may be allowed to select a freeball(any ball on the table).

The freeball, for this shot only, becomes another ball ON and has the same value and is respotted if potted. 4 - If your cueball first hits a ball other than the ball ON, then the penalty is the value of the ball struck or 4 points, whichever is greater. 5 - If you pot a ball other than the ball ON, then you do NOT score the value of the ball ON but your opponent scores the value of the ball pocketed. 6 - If you touch any ball on the table at any time,then the penalty is the value of the ball touched or 4 points, whichever is greater. The game ends when: 1. A player resigns because there are not enough balls on the table to make up for the opponent's score OR he does not have enough options to execute a good snooker to force the opponent into a foul. 2. All reds and ball colors are pocketed.

Winner: 10 Words That Will Win You Any Game of Scrabble | Mental Floss 10 Words That Will Win You Any Game of Scrabble Hasbro Like us on Facebook Whether you consider winning at Scrabble a case of extreme luck or supreme spelling ability, here are 10 words that—if conditions are right—will help you trump any opponent. 1. Oxyphenbutazone Definition: An anti-inflammatory medication used to treat arthritis and bursitis. Conditions: The theoretically highest-possible scoring word under American Scrabble play—as calculated by Dan Stock of Ohio—has never actually been played … and probably never will (unless you’re really, really lucky). That’s because it has to be played across three triple word score squares and build on eight already-played (and perfectly positioned) tiles. Points: 1,778 2. Quizzify Definition: To quiz or question. Conditions: Not only will you need to draw the game’s only Q and Z tiles (there’s only one of each), but a blank tile, too (in place of the second Z).

Play this verb as your first word across two triple word squares with the Z on a double letter score square and you’ve got the game’s most valuable eight-letter bingo. Points: 419 3. Oxazepam Definition: An anti-anxiety drug. Conditions: All that stress will melt away if you can build on one existing letter , play across two triple word score squares, place one of the most valuable tiles (i.e. X or Z) on a double letter score square and net a 50-point bingo. Points: 392 4. Quetzals Definition: The national bird of Guatemala as well as one of its monetary units. Conditions: Placement is everything to score this whopper of a word: Building on one letter, use all seven letters on your rack for a 50-point bingo, with Q and S on triple word score square and Z on a double letter score space. Points: 374 5. Quixotry Definition: A romantic or quixotic idea or action.

Conditions: In 2007, Michael Cresta used an already-played R and all seven of his tiles across two triple word score squares to earn the most points ever on a single turn, which aided in a second record for the full-time carpenter: the highest-ever individual game score (830 points). Points: 365 6. Gherkins Definition: A small pickle, made from an immature cucumber. Conditions: In 1985, Robert Kahn paid tribute to the pickle at the National Scrabble Championship in Boston—using an E and R already on the board—to set a record for a non-bingo word score. Points: 180 7. Quartzy Definition: Resembling quartz. Conditions: “Quartzy” held the record for highest-ever single turn score until “Quixotry” nearly doubled its total in 2007. Play it across a triple word score square with Z as a double letter score, with a 50-point bingo for using all seven letters on your rack. Points: 164 8. Muzjiks Definition: A Russian peasant.

Conditions: On its own (with no bonuses or extra points), “muzjiks” is worth an impressive 29 points. But exhaust all of your tiles on your first turn to spell it, and you’ll earn more than four times that—which is what player Jesse Inman did at the National Scrabble Championship in Orlando in 2008 to earn the record for highest opening score. Points: 126 9. Syzygy Definition: An alignment of three celestial bodies. Conditions: Forget trying to pronounce it (though, for the record, it’s “SIZ-i-jee”). Instead, just remember how to spell it—and that it’s worth 21 points au naturel . You’ll need one blank tile to make up for the lack of Ys (there are only two in the game). For a higher total, land the Z on a double letter score square and the final Y on a triple word score square. Points: 93 10. Za Definition: Slang term for pizza. Conditions: Big words are great and all, but two-letter words can also score big . And be especially annoying to your opponent.

Build on two As—one directly below, the other directly to the right of a triple letter square—to spell this two-letter delectable across and down. Points: 62

Question: In the game of English billiards, how many points does a cannon score?
Answer: Two