The Japanese Art of Growing Miniature Trees | Home Guides | SF Gate The Japanese Art of Growing Miniature Trees The Japanese Art of Growing Miniature Trees Formally upright shapes are common for trees that naturally grow tall. Bonsai, the Japanese art of growing miniature trees, is a process that produces exceptional and one-of-a-kind botanical specimens that evoke images of ancient forests. Although bonsai may seem like an incredibly delicate art, it is a form of horticulture that any gardener can learn with some practice. Many of the same skills you use in your yard, such as thinning and root pruning, are vital to effective bonsai. History Miniaturizing plants was a practice first developed by the Chinese, possibly as long ago as the Han and Qin dynasties, from 221 BC to 220 AD. The Japanese began adopting Chinese culture in the 500s, including Chinese penjing, a precursor to bonsai. Over time, bonsai became a separate and decidedly Japanese art form, coming into its own as hachi-no-ki around the 13th century and later named bonsai in the 1800s at Azakusa Park.

The first Western exposure to bonsai was in 1909 at a London horticultural exhibit. Ideal Plants Although virtually any plant can be miniaturized, ideal specimens for bonsai are perfectly proportioned in relation to the tree, with attractive bark and flowers and leaves that are small or become small under bonsai culture. Common bonsai plants include spruce, pine, zelkova, some maple and elm species, crape myrtle, willow, azalea, pomegranate, plum, crabapple,and quince. Bonsai Training Techniques Bonsai training consists of three major elements: pinching, pruning and wiring. New growth is often pinched to cause branching to occur off of the original branches. Branch pruning may be used to establish or maintain the shape of your bonsai tree, with major pruning done in late winter or early spring and minor pruning performed whenever it is necessary. Root pruning is an early spring chore and should also be done any time the plant is repotted. By removing half of the length of roots, the tree remains dwarfed and feeder roots move closer to the trunk.

Wiring is used to force the tree to grow into a specific position by holding tender new growth in place with wires until it matures and hardens. Styles The formal upright and the informal upright styles of bonsai are considered easiest for beginners, because they don't require the tree to perform amazing acrobatics. Both result in trees that appear similar to common mature forms. Other, more complicated shapes include slanting style, cascade style and semi-cascade style. These advanced shapes require both careful pruning and extensive wiring to coax the plants into convoluted positions. Care Most bonsai plants are outdoor varieties that will not tolerate prolonged stays inside, so keep them in an appropriately lit spot on a patio or deck. Because bonsai plants have such shallow and small root systems, water and fertilizer are crucial and should be provided regularly. Water your bonsai whenever the surface of the soil feels dry to the palm -- this can be as frequently as twice a day in the summer. You should not allow the soil to become soggy. A weekly dose of water-soluble fertilizer should be plenty for most bonsai, but you may need to provide more to your particular plant if the leaves begin to yellow.

Bonsai: the art of growing miniature trees Bonsai: the art of growing miniature trees Posted on February 3, 2012 by Rupert Foxton-Smythe • 0 Comments The art of growing miniature trees, which rarely exceed two feet in height, is a living art form. The Chinese and Indians are reputed to have grown miniature trees in the eighth century A.D., but by the tenth century the Japanese had taken up and developed the idea. ‘Bonsai’ is, in fact, a Japanese word meaning ‘trees growing in shallow containers’. Bonsai are kept small by pruning and by keeping them in a small container which restricts their root growth. Those grown over two feet are usually left outdoors, those 1-2 feet high stand alone indoors and those less than one foot high are often grouped – two or more growing in one container. There is specialist bonsai equipment to help you shape and prune the trees. One of the traditions of grouped bonsai is that an uneven number of trees is usually grown. This is because the Japanese regard uneven numbers as representative of longevity. A group of four trees is never grown, as the word four in Japanese is similar to the word for death.

Image via Wikipedia Which trees to choose for Bonsai In general the slow-growing or small trees are best for bonsai , as you then have less of a struggle against nature. (Slow trees can take 50 years to reach 20 feet, whereas fast-growing ones can exceed 100 feet in the same time.) Evergreens are popular and vary little from season to season, but you can also grow flowering and fruit trees. (Choose those that have small fruit – crab apple as against eating apple.) The trees should have small leaves , or short needles, which do not detract from the perfect, miniature look of the tree. The leaves will be small on bonsai because of the pruning and dwarfing process but, again, if you choose a small-leaved tree you will have a head start. Many types of tree not usually regarded as bonsai can be successfully grown in miniature form, so if you see anything that looks suitable it is worth attempting to grow it. But first find out as much as possible about the habits and soil preferences of the tree – the more you know about it the greater your chance of growing it successfully as a bonsai. Below are listed some of the more popular bonsai.

They are all reasonably hardy and easy to keep alive. Abies (Conifer). This exceptionally beautiful evergreen has short needles and a trunk which is wide at the base but tapers sharply. Acer. The deciduous Acer family includes Acer Palmatum (Maple) and Acer Pseudo-plaianus (Sycamore) which both have attractive leaves. Betula (Birch). A graceful deciduous tree with small foliage and white or silver bark. Chamaecyparis (False Cypress). An evergreen which is obtainable in various forms, and has very small leaves. Cornus Mas (Cornelian Cherry). A deciduous tree which has small yellow clusters of flowers in early spring and edible red oval fruit later. Cotoneaster. The many varieties of this tree – both deciduous and evergreen – have small leaves, flowers and fruit. Fagus (Beech). This deciduous tree has a well-shaped trunk and pale green leaves in spring. The leaves turn to russet in autumn but stay on the tree throughout the winter. Juniperus Communis (Juniper). A very small-leaved evergreen. Lycium (Boxthorn). A deciduous tree with small purple flowers and red berries.

Malus (Crab Apple). A number of varieties of this deciduous tree are suitable for bonsai. It has small red or white blooms in early summer and small colourful fruit in autumn. Moms Alba (Silkworm Mulberry). With its many small flowers and dark green leaves the form of this deciduous tree is particularly good. Picea Abies (Spruce). A shallow-rooted evergreen with fine-needled foliage. Pinus (Pine). The most popular of the bonsai and the Japanese symbol of life. Prunus. The deciduous Primus family includes the Prunus Mume (Apricot), Prunus Jamasakura (Cherry) – which dislikes pruning, and Prunus Communis (Almond). The Apricot is perhaps the easiest to grow. Choose a small-leaved and small-flowered variety. Pyracantha Coccinea (Firethorn). A deciduous tree which has small leaves, and tiny white flowers in mid-summer. These turn to yellow or red berries in autumn, and last for about five months. Quercus (Oak). Another deciduous tree, oak is particularly good for bonsai as it is slow growing and has lots of branches.

Salix (Willow). A deciduous tree, Salix Babylonica (the Weeping Willow) is particularly lovely. Taxus (Yew). A hardy evergreen whose trunk naturally looks gnarled as the tree grows. It also produces attractive scarlet berries. Tilia x Europaea (Lime). This lovely deciduous tree has red twigs, and small, pale green, heart-shaped leaves. To buy or to grow? There are basically two ways of obtaining a bonsai – either you buy it or you grow it. If you buy one you lose some of the absorbing work of pruning it and determining its shape, but you do see a mature end result. You can buy one fully grown, container and all, from a specialist nursery. Or – from autumn to spring when they are resting – you can buy one grown but ‘ root -wrapped’ (that is, with its ball of soil protectively wrapped in some way) rather than in a container. You then plant it yourself, which means you have the choice of container. Alternatively, as bonsai are usually rather expensive to buy, you could grow your own from a seed , seedling or cutting .

Oak, Willow, Beech, Sycamore, and Conifers are easy to grow in this way if you give them enough warmth, moisture and air. The drawback here is that it can take up to 100 years to develop a mature bonsai! Image via Wikipedia The major points to look for when buying or growing a bonsai are that the plant is small and attractive, that the trunk is thick in proportion to the height, that the plant itself and its roots look healthy, and that it has small leaves. How to grow bonsai An Acorn or Chestnut will grow if you plant it. You can take a cutting from a tree. Or, if you are lucky, you may find a suitable seedling . Cuttings should be 3 inches long, cut just below a leaf node so that they can drink easily. Take soft wood cuttings in the spring, and hard wood ones in autumn choosing wood of that year’s growth. To plant, make holes in the side and bottom of a pot (if it is clay you will need to drill these, if plastic you can make them using a sharp knife). Put crocks and gravel at the bottom of the pot to help drainage , then fill the pot with a sandy compost .

A seed should be planted about its own height below the soil, a cutting about one third of its length, and a seedling as a plant. Leave half an inch at the top of the pot for watering . As roots come through the holes in the pot snip them off, and after one year in the pot if it is a cutting or seedling, or two or three years for a seed, repot into its new container and, later, start pruning the top growth very carefully. Watering Bonsai Trees Water bonsai about once a day, never allow the soil to dry out, but be careful not to overwater. The soil should be kept just moist at all times. You will need to water more frequently in hot weather and in the growing season and less in winter. The larger leafed varieties of bonsai should have their leaves sprayed occasionally. But never do this in the heat of the day or while the tree is receiving direct sunlight. Sun on water droplets has the same effect as a magnifying glass – the leaves will be burnt or scorched. Soil for Bonsai Trees Use different grades of coarse mixed soil which are suitable for your particular tree, some water retentive and some open and porous.

If you use too fine a soil it will clog down when watered and not enough air will be able to circulate around the roots. Put the coarsest soil in the bottom of the pot, above the crocks, and the finest soil on top and around the roots. Image via Wikipedia Feeding Bonsai Trees Bonsai, like pot plants, need regular feeding with a liquid fertilizer during the growing season. This is because their roots are restricted as to the area they can stretch out to in search of food. Art of the Miniature Trees - TopTropicals.com Art of the Miniature Trees Click on image to enlarge Bonsai is the art of growing carefully trained, dwarf plants in containers, dwarfing trees by careful root and stem pruning coupled with root restriction. Bonsai means "tray gardening" in Japanese. The plants are formed to create an aesthetic shape and the illusion of age. The Chinese art of penjing is very similar to and is the precursor of the Japanese art of bonsai. A bonsai is not a genetically dwarfed plant. It is any tree or shrub species actively growing but kept small by crown and root pruning.

Theoretically, any species could be used, though ones with attributes such as small leaves and twigs will generally make better bonsai, helping to create the illusion of a larger tree in miniature. Properly maintained bonsai can have lifespans that might be able to reach that of their full-sized counterparts. However, bonsai require a great deal of care, and improperly maintained bonsai will not survive. In the art of bonsai a sense of aesthetics, care, and patience come together. The plant, the shaping and surface of the soil and the selected container come together to express "heaven and earth in one container" as a Japanese cliche has it. Three forces come together in a good bonsai: shin-zen-bi or truth, essence and beauty. The usual plants used in Japan are species of pine, azalea, camellia, maple, beech, bamboo and plum, but there are many plants you can use for bonsai. In Japan the bonsai plants are grown outdoors and brought in to the tokonoma at special occasions when they most evoke the current season.

The Japanese bonsai are meant to evoke the essential spirit of the plant being used: in all cases they must look natural and never show the intervention of human hands. Chinese penjing may more literally depict images of dragons or even be guided to resemble highly intricate Chinese characters, such as "longevity", in various styles, but usually cursive. There are many different styles of bonsai, but some are more common than others. These include formal upright, informal upright, cascade, semi-cascade, raft and literati. The formal upright is just as the name suggests, and is characterized by a tapering trunk and balanced branches. The informal upright is much like the formal, but may bend and curve slightly, although for aesthetic quality the tree should never lean away from the viewer. Cascade and semi-cascade are modelled after trees that grow over water or on the sides of mountains. Semi-cascade do not lean as far downward as the cascade style. Raft style bonsai are those that are planted on their side, and can include many other styles such as sinuous, straight-line, and group planting styles. These all give the illusion of a group of trees, but are actually the branches of a tree planted on its side.

The literati style is the hardest to define, but is seen fairly often. The word literati is used in place of the Japanese bunjin which is a translation of the Chinese word wenjen meaning "scholars practiced in the arts". The literati style is usually characterized by a small number of branches typically placed higher up on the trunk and a long, contorted trunk. Their style is inspired by the Chinese paintings of pine trees that grew in harsh climates, struggling to reach the light of the sun. There are many plants you can use for bonsai, including those that don't look like a tree at all (jasmines, anthuriums, etc.). Important feature for successful bonsai is that the plant should have small leaves; fast-growing habit is a plus. Bonsai | Culture | Articles Skip to content Bonsai Bonsai (tray cultivation) is an ancient Japanese art of growing miniature trees by using containers. Dwarfing is often confused with this practice. However, dwarfing is actually a practice that is used for research purposes to create miniatures of plant species. Bonsai grows smaller trees from normal seeds and stock.

Pruning, potting, root reduction, grafting, and defoliation are techniques that Bonsai artists use to create trees that have similar shapes and styles of full-sized mature trees. There are many different styles of bonsai trees. The distinctions come from the different shapes that are formed by the trees' branches and all have different names. Many of these styles are shaped to imitate features of the natural world, like cascades and waterfalls. Bonsai is meant to be used to encourage contemplation, instead of being used to produce food, medicine, or yard or park-sized landscapes, like most other practices of plant cultivation. Bonsai's focus is on growing and shaping trees in containers over long periods of time. It is an art that can take a good deal of time and training to master.. During the 1970s, Bonsai experienced a resurgence in global popularity. Three periodicals began publication at this time. These magazines were called Bonsai Sekai, Shizen to Bonsai, and Satsuki Kenkyu. The first Gafu-Ten (Elegant-Style Exhibition) was held in 1975 and helped to promote Bonsai to regular people.

This was the same year that another convention called the Sakufu-ten (Creative Bonsai Exhibit) was held. The Sakufu-ten was the first of its kind as it allowed the actual growers of the bonsai trees to display their work to the attendees of the exhibition event and be credited by their own names. This show was organized by a man named Hideo Kato and was held at Tokyo's Daimaru Department Store. The first World Bonzai Convention was held in 1980 in the city of Osaka. These events lead to global acceptance of the art of Bonzai. Today, there are more than one thousand books on the subject. They are published in over twenty-six languages and can be found in more than ninety nations around the globe. It is also the subject of dozens of magazines and the basis for many clubs and organizations. Bonsai is accepted as a beautiful art form and a great way to find relaxation and refocus the mind. It is a unique art that is enjoyed by many people in Japan and around the world.

Recently Added The Art of Growing Miniature Trees Plants and Landscapes by Ishimoto Tatsuo - AbeBooks The Art of Growing Miniature Trees Plants and Landscapes by Ishimoto Tatsuo You Searched For: Results (1 - 30) of 44 1 (30) Search Within These Results: Published by Crown Publishers, New York (1956) Used Hardcover Published by Crown Publishers, New York (1956) Used Hardcover Published by Crown Publishers, New York (1956) Used Hardcover Published by Crown Publishers (1956) Used Hardcover ISBN 10: 0517004542 ISBN 13: 9780517004548 Used ISBN 10: 0517004542 ISBN 13: 9780517004548 Used Hardcover Published by Crown Publishers, Inc. Used Hardcover Published by W. Heffer & Sons Ltd. (1956) Used Hardcover Destination, Rates & Speeds Item Description: W. Heffer & Sons Ltd., 1956. Hardcover.

Book Condition: Used: Acceptable. Good cover w/ stain on bottom, dust jacket missing, tight binding, clean text Prompt, reliable service, shipped next business day. Int'l mailed via first class or priority. Bookseller Inventory # ahcnf480531x Published by Crown Publishers (1966) Used Hardcover Destination, Rates & Speeds Item Description: Crown. Book Condition: Very Good. Hardcover w / dustjacket. Very good condition; edges, corners, and covers of book show minor wear. No underlining; no highlighting; no internal markings. DJ has edgewear, rubbing, 3/4" open tear to top back panel, 1" closed tear to foredge. Bump to bottom corner. Stored in sealed plastic protection. In the event of a problem we guarantee full refund. 1956. Hardcover w / dustjacket.

Bookseller Inventory # 138532 Published by Crown Pub., New York Used Hardcover Published by Crown Publishers, Inc., New York, New York, USA (1966) Used Hardcover Destination, Rates & Speeds Item Description: Crown Publishers, Inc., New York, New York, USA, 1966. Hard Cover. Book Condition: Good+. Dust Jacket Condition: Good+. 9th Printing. 7"x9.25". BX5 - A hard cover 9th printing book in good+ condition. A tight, clean, sound copy in light blue textured paper covered boards with blue lettering on the spine and on the front with minor overall shelf wear plus some very light edge wear on top and bottom board edges plus there is some very light bumping on the right corners plus there is the original owner's bookplate on the front endpaper plus the dust jacket endflaps are glued down to the inside surfaces of the boards. The dust jacket shows minor overall shlef wear plus it has been laminated plus the endflaps are glued down to the inside surfaces of the boards. Illustrated with black and white photographs throughout. A book of instruction on the art of Bonsai and Bonkei.

By the author of "The Art of Flower Arrangement." 143p. Bookseller Inventory # SCW04915 How to Grow Bonsai Plant Care as a Houseplant Unbelievable Savings Bonsai Plant Care Bonsai plants are a work of art, a hobby, an indoor gardening project. However you look at growing and maintaining Bonsai plants, it is fun and rewarding. The "art" of growing a miniature plant or tree into a unique shape, is truely an art form. Some call it a labor of love. For the indoor gardener seeking something new and exciting to grow, you've come to the right plant. The word "Bonsai" means "tray planted". It's roots go back to ancient Chinese and Japanese cultures. The plants are grown in shallow trays or containers. Choose the container carefully, as it is an important part of the artistic creation you are making. Trees, shrubs, plants and bushes are commonly used. The plants are allowed to grow from just a couple inches, to a couple feet tall. Plants that naturally grow small, and have small leaves, are best. To most, it's not the actual growing of the plant that is so much fun.

Rather, it's the trimming, pruning, and shaping of the plant into a unique shape that provides the reward to the Bonsai grower. Bonsai History: You may be surprised to learn that the roots of these plants does not come from Japan. It originated in ancient China, and was brought to Japan over a thousand years ago and became widely popular. In the last century, it has became popular in U.S. homes, blending the joy of indoor gardening, with the artistic rewards of shaping a miniature plant into a true work of art. Bonsai Plant Care: Creating a Bonsai plant is not a quick task. It is a slow, methodical form of art. Many people buy bonsai plants already grown and shaped. They then maintain it. Others take up the challenge of growing a bonsai from seedlings, rootings, or cuttings. Generally speaking, the plants need the same type of care as other houseplants. They need plenty of sunlight or artificial grow lights. They need protection from insects and disease. They need water and fertilizer. Like other houseplants, fertilize less frequently than outdoor plants. Light and infrequent applications of fertilizer, helps the plants growth and health, but at a slower growth rate.

Trimming, Pruning, and Shaping: Your Bonsai plant is a pampered plant. For example, growers often allow water come to room temperature, before giving their plants a drink. Most growers put a lot of effort into creating and maintaining the desired shape. It receives continual shaping and pruning. The leaves are trimmed to keep it's small shape and appearance. Roots may be trimmed or cut to help keep a small size. Good, sharp bonsai scissors are essential. More: Money Tree - This "Good luck and fortune" tree, makes a great bonsai plant. Garden Seeds for Sale Over 500 varieites! Buy top quality, brand name flower, vegetable and herb seeds, at discount sale prices. The best quality at the lowest prices...anywhere! Composters quickly make rich, organic soil. Definition and meaning of Bonsai - Bonsai Empire Definition and meaning What is Bonsai? The word “Bon-sai” (often misspelled as bonzai or banzai) is a Japanese term which, literally translated, means “planted in a container”.

This art form is derived from an ancient Chinese horticultural practice, part of which was then redeveloped under the influence of Japanese Zen Buddhism. It has been around for well over a thousand years. The ultimate goal of growing a Bonsai is to create a miniaturized but realistic representation of nature in the form of a tree. Bonsai are not genetically dwarfed plants, in fact, any tree species can be used to grow one. Bonsai "Akirafutokoro Prince" (706 AD). Source: Ritsumeikan University What is a Bonsai tree exactly? Techniques such as pinching buds, pruning and wiring branches, and carefully restricting but not abandoning fertilizers are used to limit and redirect healthy growth. Most commonly kept under four feet (or about a meter) in height, Bonsai are not genetically dwarfed plants. However, plants with smaller leaves do make these compositions easier to design. In fact, any plant species that has a woody stem or trunk, grows true branches, can be successfully grown in a container to restrict its roots/food storage capability, and has smaller or reducible-leaves can be used to create a Bonsai.

Look around at your trees, bushes, hedges, the copses in your yard or park, plants in the nursery or wild landscape – essentially any of those can be starter material. Carefully collected during the appropriate growing or dormant season with proper permission, your composition is begun. Most native plants can then be grown outdoors; material from more tropical climates needs at least some protection from the elements in the temperate zones. In our Bonsai tree species guide you can find more information about specific care per species. Or use this guide to identify your Bonsai tree species in three steps. Bonsai size classifications The ultimate goal of Bonsai is to create a realistic depiction of nature. As a Bonsai gets smaller (even down to a few inches/centimeters) it increasingly becomes abstract, as opposed to resembling nature in a more precise way. Several classifications of Bonsai have been put forward, and although the exact size classifications are disputed, they help to gain understanding of the aesthetic and botanical aspects of Bonsai. The classifications are originally based on the number of men needed to lift the actual tree.

The size classifications, increasing in size Keshitsubo: 1-3" (3-8 cm) Read more about the smallest trees in the Shohin and Mame Bonsai article. Bonsai for sale in a market, Japan. Bonsai definition The Chinese characters for their older dwarf potted tree landscapes were adopted to name the Japanese art-form. In short, the definition of Bonsai can be explained as: “Bon” [left character] is a dish or thin bowl (“a modified vessel which has been divided or cut down from a deeper form”). “Sai” [right character] is a tree or other growing plant which is planted – “planted,” as would be a halberd or spear or pike stuck into the ground. “Bonsai” thus means or denotes “a tree which is planted in a shallow container". Bonsai meaning The connotations or added/implied Bonsai tree meanings include: A general tree-like shape or style (although not necessarily natural to that type of plant growing full-size in the wild). A profile that is not as detailed as a photographically-real tree but has just enough features to easily suggest a full-grown tree.

Relative smallness, compared with those same types of trees outside of the container, for ease of transport and ability to keep nearby. A sense of naturalness which has been subtly accentuated by human intervention but which is not spoiled by stark evidence of human interaction. A particular representation of something much more than itself, and thus allowing each viewer to interpret what is shown and to build-upon this based on his or her own experiences and memories. Something so valued that it has received care for virtually every day of its [hopefully long] containerized life. Something held in such high regard that it was allowed to be brought temporarily into the house for honored guests even though it contained soil from the garden. A portable oasis and transportable miniature garden which can represent the seasons and vast or favorite landscapes close-at-hand for meditation or contemplation assistance. These are just a few points, it is up to you to decide what Bonsai meaning means to you. Read more about the history and origins of Bonsai . Reproduction by Takao Itabashi, original by Takakane Takashina. Poetry by Mototada Takatsukasa and others. Source: Ritsumeikan University Horticultural practice, or art form?

Bonsai-in-training (also known as “potensai,” potential Bonsai) should point to a future, more mature creation which the artist, at least, has somewhat in mind. And because these are made with living, growing things, those future piece are never complete or finished. They will be presented within certain biological parameters, subject to health issues or remodeling by the tree with the caretakers' assistance. The oldest and longest-containerized Bonsai because of natural changes can undergo several different styles throughout their long lives. These trees can, in fact, live longer than their full-size counterparts because of our increased attention to their health, water and nutritional needs, protection from weather extremes, injuries needing care, or pest infestations requiring containment or removal. In our " top 10 great Bonsai trees list " we have included an 800 year-old tree. The best Bonsai – whether a single tree or a multi-plant and rock landscape composition – touch us, make us take notice, stop us as they catch our experience and imaginations to show us something new.

Larger trunks, textured bark, an interplay of twisting live wood and deadwood, surface roots, branch and twig ramification, foliage pads, relatively small leaves or needles, a very complementary and relatively shallow container, tiny fruit or cones or flowers – these are just a few of the more obvious features that can be used to help portray a miniature landscape. They are not all needed or possible in any one given composition, and they cannot simply be included “just because.” A true master artisan knows, feels what is needed. And his or her creation touches us, also. Those true masterpieces are the ones which, when you first look at them, can momentarily take your breath away and raise a smile. The earliest Bonsai were collected in the wild and were interestingly-shaped specimens which told of many adventures or challenges during their long-lives growing exposed to the elements. As their availability decreased during the centuries, landscape and nursery plants were tried and experimented with. Eventually, it was learned how to shape the trees to resemble naturally-sculpted specimens. Bonsai challenges our gardening skills, artistic aesthetics and design capabilities. Bonsai are a blend of horticultural knowledge and art.

As one's experience with a given type of tree increases, concern about keeping the plant alive and healthy can take a backseat to concern about a particular design. The best, ideal, masterpiece compositions seem natural, without artifice or affectation. They don't call attention directly to the artist; they don't deliberately show off their features (or flaws). Read more about compositions at the Bonsai styles article. As with all human crafts/hobbies/arts, Bonsai can be enjoyed by oneself or shared with others. They can be made for personal enjoyment or profit from sale. They can be designed quickly with little experience or developed over a period of time with increasing personal expertise and exposure to the creations of other enthusiasts and artists. And any combination of these characteristics. Bonsai can challenge one's own gardening skills, artistic aesthetics and design capabilities, time and monetary investment, and storage and display parameters. Bonsai truly are/can be much more than just “miniature Japanese trees.” They can be as inexpensive as a collected “volunteer” sapling in one's own yard put in a plastic pot to a pricey award-winning specimen imported from overseas with an antique container. The range of this hobby/art is one of the appealing features of Bonsai.

Click here for an introduction on how to grow a Bonsai yourself . Containers for Bonsai The containers for these trees can be an interest in themselves. Traditionally made in China and then Japan, these shallow containers of mostly fired earthenware are increasingly crafted by both professional and amateur artisans around the world. The matching up of a pot to a designed tree can be a wonderful challenge, for the pot must support the tree as well as be an attractive but non-intrusive frame to the Bonsai's picture. Earth tones and not-so-garish decorations distinguish traditional Japanese pots from the Chinese models. And containers for cascading trees are the one exception to the shallow pot rule: these tall, narrow containers must provide adequate space for roots and a balanced center of gravity for trees designed to appear to be hanging down from the side of a mountain or cliff. More info about selecting Bonsai pots here. Bonsai "spring evening Umeno-en" (1747 - 1752), by Utagawa Toyokuni.

Source: Ritsumeikan University Closely related arts While “Bonsai“ specifically refers to dwarf potted trees based on the Japanese model, it is also used as a generic term for related art-forms in other countries, which include but are not limited to the following: Penjing are the older and original form of Chinese miniature landscapes. They usually include rocks to represent mountains, hills, and cliffs. Sometimes they are even all the way up to 3 meters or 10' tall. These larger compositions are planted in non-movable concrete containers on permanent display. Saikei are the newer and smaller Japanese versions of Penjing. These are made with rocks, small plants/ground-covers, and underdeveloped trees (which could someday become independently potted Bonsai). Hòn non bô are Vietnamese miniature landscapes from 0.3 to 7.6 m (1' to 25') high, made with rocks, plants and water imitating island scenery, mountains and surroundings. Mai-dăt are the Thai compositions which are more angular and symbolic, somewhat likened to stylized dancers' poses.

Some distinct shapes are also seen in Bonsai created to reflect native trees in North America, South Africa, and Australia, for instance. Then there are other key display options. Accent plants are smaller, separately-potted compositions which are placed near to the main Bonsai so as to provide scale or seasonal theme to the principle tree. The most formal display setting is a tokonoma, an elevated alcove whose rear wall usually holds a hanging scroll. The combination of the scroll, Bonsai, and accent plant or viewing stone are designed to present a specific theme. Viewing stones or Suiseki are relatively small natural rocks which resemble miniature mountains, cliffs, islands, huts, animals, or other shapes. The best of these have custom-carved bases for better display. Read more about arts related to Bonsai . This is a current interpretation of this gardening interest. As enthusiasm and experience with this further spreads around the world, additional meanings, appreciations and materials will be added to the overall body that comprises Bonsai. More of the local woody plants and new native styles continue to be applied to the designs of Bonsai. It is constantly developing and each of us contributes to what is this dynamic art-form. Author: Robert J.

Baran (Bonsai researcher and historian). Miniature plants Miniature Plants The following list contains plants that I am currently testing in my miniature gardens. Species and varieties that I think are especially reliable, useful and beautiful are bold printed. Some good plants are not bold printed simply because they are just a bit too large and therefore out of scale, but they might be great for regular rock gardens, where scale is less important. Reminder: Most miniature and all alpine plants require very special soil conditions that have to be provided to them to enable them to survive the winter, or a wet summer. Basically, they have to have very gritty, gravelly, well draining soil. We seemed to have good success so far with a mix that consisted of ca. 50% crushed stone (3/8") to insure drainage. The rest consisted of peat moss, compost, vermiculite, coarse sand and loam in various amounts. Not all of the listed plants would fit into the same scale of miniature landscaping.

Some, like the Dwarf Alberta Spruce (Picea glauca 'Conica') grow easily into 8 foot large trees (although very slowly), while others might only grow to about 24 inches tall (Picea glauca 'Echiniformis'). Other plants that do not grow very high might spread very far (Junipers, Bearberry, etc.). Many shrubs and trees can be kept in size by pruning or what could be called 'bonsaiing'. I have never tried root-pruning outdoor plants as it is done with Bonsai. Anyone with experience in that respect please share your knowledge with me! Scientific Name, generic name Abies balsamea 'Nana' Dwarf Balsam Fir very hardy, but seems somewhat soil sensitive; I frequently find some browning of needles on my plant which is planted in a tufa trough. Perhaps there is lime bleaching out, or it might dry out too fast. Acer ginnala 'Emerald Elf' Dwarf Amur Maple a tough small shrub, brilliant red fall color, I am trying this for Bonsai and also as a pruned outdoor pseudo-bonsai.

So far seems to make a good specimen miniature tree, as long as one keeps up with pruning. Acer palmatum dissectum 'Viridis' Cutleaf Japanese Maple a small, fine-textured tree, however, it will need pruning to stay in scale for a miniature garden Acer palmatum 'Sengu Kaku' amazingly beautiful; needs pruning or Bonsai technique to stay small Achillea jaborneggii need to further observe overwintering; Acorus gramineus "Pusillus Minimus Aureus" Miniature Variegated Sweet Flag this is a beautiful, tiny glasslike plant, but did not survive the winter here in Zone 5 to 6.

I bet it will be fine in Zone 7, as long as it has moist, well draining soil Acorus gramineus 'Ogon' small, beautiful, tuff and easy, and has survived even the worst winters here Alchemilla alpina full, fresh foliage; perhaps a little large for a miniature garden Allium senescens 'Glaucum' Curly Chives unusual twisted foliage, easy to grow and great for rock gardens, but looks rather funky and not very convincing in a miniature garden Alyssum serphyllifolium Mountain Alyssum smaller than the more ordinary rock-garden species of 'Basket of Gold', but it still has somewhat lanky flower stalks; needs excellent drainage; propagate from seed Andromeda polifolia Bog Andromeda I can't keep this alive in a pot, but survives planted, to me this is a difficult plant; I saw it in the wild on a lakeside in NH in gravelly soil with wet root zone Antennaria neglecta gaspensis Dwarf Pussytoes tiny plant with slowly growing mat of ground-hugging grey foliage and pussy-toe flowers in 2" tall stalks, looks good in miniature gardens and troughs; so far it was easy

 to grow Anthemis carpatica 'Snow Carpet' for rock garden, divide frequently, flowers too large for miniature garden Aquilegia saximontana Miniature Columbine need to further observe overwintering, furthermore, I am in the process of eliminating all my aquilegia since I always find a lot of leaf-miner damage on all of them.

Recently, I also had larvae eating the smaller species - all the way to the ground. Arabis alpina Arabis sturii Cushion Rock cress a wonderful, low mat of dense, juicy-green foliage, and small white flowers; saw this the first time at Van Berkum Nurseries (wholesale); easy to grow and likes part shade; perfect for the miniature garden Arctostaphylos uva-ursii Bearberry likes hot and dry, easy and ornamental, wide spreading; good small evergreen foliage and big red beries in the late summer; However, I frequently observe browning of foliage by late winter, which recovers a few weeks later; only recommended for a very spacious miniature garden Arctostaphylos uva-ursii 'Wood's Compact' Compact Bearberry much shorter and more compact than species, but this has been loaded with some kind of black spot that neighboring plants of the plain species did not get or only very little; I do not recommend it!

Arenaria montana need to further observe overwintering Armeria maritima 'Rubrifolia' purple-leaved Thrift great dark chocolate-purple foliage color which fades out to a dull grey in the summer, not difficult to grow and quite rewarding Asperula gussonii miniature Cushion-woodruff tiny mounds, need to further observe overwintering, however, I can already say that it easily burns out in a hot and humid New England summer. Otherwise a beautiful plant for the very tiny miniature garden Asplenium trichomanes Maidenhair Spleenwort, a tiny fern I know these little ferns well from my home region in Germany, where they are growing abundantly in old mortared vineyard walls, usually in company of Asplenium ruta-muraria, which is an even smaller species. To make them survive in a pot I had good success by filling the container with a mix of 60% marble chunks and 40% lean, organic potting soil. If they grow in mortar cracks they obviously don't mind strong drainage.

more photos of this plant under "Ferns" Astilbe chinensis 'Pumila' Dwarf Astilbe too big for miniature gardens, I'm not very impressed with this plant, the flowers look dirty before bloom is over; hope to find better dwarf astilbes. I'm trying now Astilbe x crispa "Lilliput", which I was able to get from Sunny Border in 2006. Looks very promising. Buxus Boxwood It is fairly easy to make your own boxwood plants from rooted cuttings. Once they are large enough, they can be shaped. I remove twigs and foliage from the lower parts to expose the stem and give the boxwood the appearance of a small tree. The one in the photo has not been worked on yet. Buxus 'Goddard Collage' Boxwood Goddard College so far this overwintered better than Green Velvet, need to further observe this plant and play with it a little more - shaping it into trees etc.

Buxus 'Green Mountain' Green Mountain Boxwood unusual for its upright habit, good miniature tree if pruned to shape, also for Bonsai I can imagine Calluna vulgaris 'Foxi Nana' Miniature Heather these disappeared in one of the colder New England winters, will survive in perfect sand & peat soil, and with pine boughs for wind protection "White Lawn" is a beautiful creeping variety, but since it always has soil contact it rots very easily. Might work better on a very steep slope. Calluna vulgaris 'White Lawn' a white-flowered form of above Campanula punctata 'Little Punky' not sure about scale of flowers (seems too big) and vigorousness, have to further observe Carex berggrenii Dwarf Bronze Sedge very tiny, dark foliage color seems hard to work with, tends to look dead because of brown color, needs the right setting; I am not sure if this is vigorous enough to call it a plant. Will have to try soil with less drainage!

Carex caryophylla 'The Beatles' very vigorous, easy, but not as tiny, rather for the jungle within the miniature garden Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Kosterii' Koster Dwarf False Cypress beautiful texture, easy to grow; for miniature gardens until they outgrow their place, might reach 3 or 4 feet in 20 years, I would guess Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Nana' Very Dwarf False Cypress a very slow growing, tiny little bun; might need more than 20 years to grow a foot tall; definitely for the miniature garden, need to observe longer Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Nana Gracilis' Dwarf False Cypress, Dwarf Hinoki Cypress this is the most common of the dwarf Hinoki's; it has typical, somewhat twisted bunches of foliage, faster growing than 'Nana' and in size closer to 'Kosteri' Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Minima' Dwarf Sawara Cypress low, broad, very small, easy to grow, so far looks very promising for the miniature garden, but need to further observe Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Squarrosa Minima' Dwarf Blue Sawara Cypress upright

 and scraggily, nice bluish foliage, but tends to have single long shoots' prune to shape; need to further observe Jan.09: I'm not impressed with this plant, very scraggly looking.

Chamaecyparis thyoides 'Little Jamie' Dwarf White Cedar upright, nice to simulate fir or spruce on a small scale; I have seen this offered as Bonsai starters, and I believe it might be great for miniature gardens as well, but have to observe growth rate and tolerance for pruning for a little longer; needs moist soil Cotoneaster adpressus 'Little Gem' Dwarf Creeping Cotoneaster tiny foliage, delicate habit, easy to grow in the soil, but I usually have problems keeping these happy in containers; I believe they have a sensitive root system and I can't see how they would make easy Bonsai in respect to root health. Cotoneaster apiculatus 'Tom Thumb' similar to above, still have to figure out the differences Cotoneaster horizontalis 'Perpusillus' similar to above, but seems wider spreading Cotula minor A fine textured low cover with interesting foliage and flowers. It seems quite easy and vigorous. I will post here if it ever gets out of hand.

Daphne cneorum 'Ruby Glow' Ruby Glow Rose Daphne a beautiful plant, but can be difficult to get established; I would think this might be one of the finest dwarf shrubs for the miniature garden, but have to observe a little longer before I give my unconditional thumbs up. Dianthus 'Rose Dawn' One of the most rewarding miniature perennials! A very good miniature, easy to grow, and forms low cushions of dense and healthy foliage that slowly broaden with time, prolific small pink blooms; one of the best in my opinion; variations possible since it is a seed strain; Dianthus gratianopolitanus 'Firewitch' a lovely plant, but I think it gets too big for a miniature garden scale Dianthus 'Frosty Fire' very silvery-blue foliage and lots of intensely reddish-pink to red flowers, also fairly compact, but no fragrance Dianthus gratianopolitanus 'La Bourboule' miniature, but was not long lived in my garden Dianthus grat. 'Tiny Rubies' need further observation Dianthus subacaulis 'Gary Eichhorn' I just planted this and like its very fragrant flowers of a good light pink very much.

I'll have to observe height. Draba still observing different species Draba rigida This tiny little plant does really well in my miniature garden. It has good drainage and is located in a situation where it has a little bit of dappled shade. Dracocephalum arguense 'Fuji Blue' Dragonhead with a height of 12" this plant grows much too big for a miniature garden scene. It seems to be quite vigorous and would be suitable for a rock garden Dryas octopetala Mountain Avens this low spreading plant has beautiful foliage and white flowers that might be a bit large for miniature gardens, but I love them anyway; It is a remnant from the Ice Age and likes it cool, therefore it dies in pots during the summer, but is vigorous and beautiful once planted, spreads quite fast. I think it likes constant moisture to be happy. I wil also have to try it on north slopes rather than south faced. Erica carnea 'Vivellii' Winter Heather I n my gardens, Erica is easier to grow than Calluna and definitely slightly hardier, purplish-red flowers; too big for small miniature gardens! count on 2 to 3 ft.

spread per plant Erica carnea 'December Red' Winter Heather December Red and Springwood White seemed hardier than Vivellii; otherwise see description above. Mine are in the ground since 10 years without hardiness problems, and have formed a dense, weed-free groundcover that blooms in late winter. They are suitable for the miniature landscape if used as representing shrubby growth or trees on a distant slope. Erica carnea 'Springwood White' Erinus alpinus 'Picos de Europa' This extremely tiny plant with lavender flowers is not likely to go through the winter alive, but might self-seed. It is beautiful, with super-tiny foliage and little purple flowers, the whole clump about 2 inch tall at the most. Erodium variabile 'Roseum' Dwarf Herons Bill This would be my favorite miniature if it was hardy in New England! Very beautiful flowers and foliage, blooms forever, but I had no luck overwintering it; this plant is so beautiful and floriferous, it's worth planting it anew year after year! Festuca abbreviata Dwarf Fescue the tiniest clumps of grass for the true miniature garden, ca 1-2" tall.

after planting quite a bit of this, I found it is not always easy to grow. So far it did better in trough gardens than in the outdoor miniature garden. I will experiment more with different soil mixes that obviously need to be well draining, but perhaps drying out should also be avoided. Fothergilla gardenii 'Appalachia' dwarf form of Dwarf Fothergilla Bottlebrush Shrub Well - it is small for a Fothergilla, but by far too large for a miniature landscape. Genista sagittalis Winged broom low and interesting; branches are ground-hugging; develops into a flat, broad plant of 12 inch diameter or more, and a thickness of 1 to 3 Inch. Reminds me of a creeping Juniper in it's habit, but much smaller. It is a beauty to see in bloom - fresh, clear yellow flowers cover the plant and look fine even together with pink dianthus - it is a fine, mild yellow with no orange tone at all. Gentiana septemfida Gentian A good plant, seems robust, the wonderful flowers seem too big for a miniature landscape, but we will just not look when they are out!

Geranium cantabrigense 'Biokovo' fairly small plants with light pink flowers, vigorous, perhaps too big for a miniature landscape Geranium cinereum 'Ballerina' Ballerina Dwarf Cranesbill striking flowers, fine foliage, not as vigorous as G. dalmaticum, and the G. cinereum varieties do not live very long in my garden Geranium cinereum 'Guiseppi' Guiseppi Dwarf Cranesbill striking, intense magenta flowers on a small plant that did not live long in my garden, where it was growing on a mound with good drainage, but in average soil. Not one of the very easy cranesbills - but I'll try it again in a situation with stronger drainage and typical rock-garden soil. Geranium dalmaticum Dalmatian Cranesbill small, vigorous and very beautiful, and with a spicy fragrance. This is one of my favorites and definitely very easy to grow; however, I'm not sure if it is not too big for a miniature landscape - will watch a little longer; o.k. - after some more observation, I have to say I wouldn't want to garden without it. It is adorable!

Ginkgo biloba Ginkgo Tree used for Bonsai, otherwise a huge tree; I will try to find some dwarfs to try out Globularia trichosantha Globe Daisy beautiful globe-shaped blue flowers of fine, fluffy texture; foliage is a bit large, although it is lying flat on the ground and therefore does not appear to be too problematic for a miniature landscape scene Gypsophila repens 'Rosea' Creeping Baby's Breath fine bluish-green foliage, floriferous, and in my garden very long-lived, hanging over a the edge of a rock wall Heuchera pulchella still evaluating, looks very promising so far, overwintering was no problem Heuchera 'Santa Rosa' The new rage in small Hostas - quite a neat looking, charming plant! Hosta 'Cat's Eye' very promising, very small and refined; has some yellow-green in the foliage when young; saw some slight slug damage, so it might not be good were slugs are abundant. photo on the left: emerging foliage has a yellow tint Hosta 'Ki Nakafu Otome' looks to me just like Hosta venusta for now, need to observe another season.

Well, in the spring it has beautiful chartreuse colors, in the summer it turns regular green. It is very vigorous and therefore suitable for a mass planting, edging or groundcover. Hosta 'Radio Waves' a little taller; rather for the rockery than a miniature garden Hosta 'Teaspoon' probably an interesting rock garden plant Hosta 'Pandora's Box' green leaf with white center, smaller than 'Winsome' and in my opinion a very suitable hosta for miniature gardens; also works well in troughs; The long stalks of the flowers are a little bit of a problem with all miniature hostas - while the foliage is small and low and in scale, the flower stalks look like oversized alien flagpoles. Hosta 'Winsome' so far it seems to grow bigger than I like it for a miniature garden Hosta venusta great, tiny, easy, long-lived, simple green foliage Houstonia Bluets These tiny perennial wildflowers are native to New England and can be found self-seeding into lawns and at road sides. I seeded a few into my miniature garden. If they were rare, everybody would want them and pay $7.50 for a small pot.

Hutchinsia alpina I just planted this tiny perennial and so far it looks very good: extremely fine, feathery foliage is in good scale for a miniature scene. White flowers are similar to Candytuft, just a bit lighter in appearance. The flower stalks are awfully long. Iberis saxatilis Dwarf Candytuft, 3"tall My established plants are loaded with the purest white flowers in May. They form a perfect mat of good foliage, and as long a s drainage is good, overwintering is no difficulty to them Iris cristata Crested Iris a beautiful native dwarf Iris with nice, clean foliage, but might be too big for miniature landscapes, certainly great in shady rockeries - however- this is probably the smallest of all Iris that I tried out. Iris gracillipes A small Iris with narrow, arching foliage. Great for a rock garden, but will be an exotic monster in a true miniature garden.

Iris 'Open Sky' 'Compressa' Juniper a narrow conical dwarf, very refined, and extremely useful in a miniature landscape; looks just like an Italian Cypress Juniperus communis 'Miniature' 'Miniature' Juniper very similar to 'Compressa', supposed to be slightly broader and easier to grow - however, I could not detect any difference so far. Juniperus procumbens 'Nana' Dwarf Jap. Juniper for Bonsai, can grow 6 ft. wide if not pruned; if regularly checked, it can make a nice specimen in a miniature landscape Juniperus procumbens 'Greenmound' finer texture and greener color than above Leontopodium alpinum not for miniature gardens, have to observe survival in rock garden in our climate Nymphaea 'Helvola' Miniature Waterlily This plant can grow in a small container only 12" deep, however, this is freezing zone in New England, therefore it needs to overwinter indoors, or the planter has to be moved deeper into the ice-free zone of a pond.

Papaver miyabeanum 'Pacino' this tiny poppy has beautiful foliage and lovely sulphur-yellow flowers, although the stalks are a bit tall. I have to observe hardiness. Penstemon procerus ssp. tolmiei Dwarf Penstemon this plant forms a mat or low mound of dark and juicy green leaves and has striking electric-blue flowers on short stems above the foliage; very interesting! Well established in my miniature garden, and I'm looking forward to longer observation.

Phlox subulata 'Betty' a good dwarf, slightly irregular, for larger rock gardens Picea abies 'Pumila' a good light green dwarf conifer for larger rock gardens Picea glauca 'Conica' Dwarf Alberta Spruce for larger rock gardens and other uses; also trained as Bonsai and I'm trying these out in the miniature landscape with frequent pruning Picea glauca 'Echiniformis' 'Echiniformis' Miniature Spruce a great, easy miniature, fine texture and good, slightly irregular shape, very slow growing and perfect for small landscapes and troughs right: pruned into small tree form Picea glauca 'Elf' 'Elf' Miniature Spruce smaller and tighter than 'Echiniformis', one of the smallest dwarf conifers, not yet planted in trial garden Picea mariana 'Nana' Dwarf Black Spruce a very slow conifer with dull bluish-green, small needles, probably suitable for miniature gardens and larger troughs Picea omorika 'Nana' this one grows quite large, give it space even in a regular garden Pinus nigra I carry these in the nursery to try as Bonsai Pinus

 ponderosa 'Moppet' Miniature Mugo Pine a very tiny plant, small needles; use in troughs, containers and railroad gardens, carried this in 2006 for the first time and have been very impressed - these are truly tiny trees!

Since I have no doubts about their hardiness, I would conclude that these (and others below) are just made for miniature landscapes. Phantastic! Pinus mugo 'Paul's Dwarf' 'Paul's Dwarf' Miniature Mugo Pine I purchased 'Paul's Dwarf' in 2006, which looks almost identical to 'Moppet' but my two plants did not seem to have as good a needle retention as 'Moppet' did (I had 20 plants to compare to). 'Moppet' remained fresher looking and fuller under identical conditions. Jan. 09: I observed that Moppet has a regular shape, Paul is more scraggly, but in a beautiful and natural way. Great in a wild scene.

Pinus mugho 'Mops' 'Mops' Dwarf Mugo Pine a superb pine with small needles and dense habit, a little larger in all parts than 'Moppet' Pinus mugho 'Valley Cushion' a good small pine, but needles slightly larger than 'Mops', at least on our plants Pinus mugho 'Pumilio' Dwarf Mugo Pine faster than 'Mops', use in larger rock gardens and landscaping, will reach a couple of feet easily. Polygonatum humile Dwarf Salomon's Seal looks pretty good for a miniature Salomon's Seal; it forms open colonies of small, upright stems with rounded leaves in the typical manner as larger Salomon's Seals. I'm not sure about the usefulness of this plant in a miniature landscape. Potentilla tommasiniana 'Snowhite' Dwarf Potentilla seems easy to grow and has excellent foliage; the pure white flowers are very refined and beautiful; the texture is a little too bold for a real miniature setting, but it is such a good plant, it's worth trying to find a place for it. Rhododendron impeditum grows into an irregular shrub about 1 ft.

tall and has tiny oval leaves; flowers are intense bluish-purple; with little pruning it will look like a bonsai tree; a perfect plant for the miniature garden, only that I have problems finding it in the wholesale trade; this is one of my al-time favorites. Combine with Pinus 'Moppet' on a hillside! Wunderbar! Rhododendron 'Purple Gem' Purple Gem Rhododendron identical with 'Ramapo', I would say; a beautiful small shrub, growing about 18" tall and 2 to 3 ft.

wide, great plant for rock gardens, a little too big for small miniature gardens, but I could see it work well in a railroad garden, especially if well shaped; very easy to grow and hardy Rosa 'Red Minimo' Red Minimo Rose the only rose I would dare putting in a mini garden, truly tiny and very floriferous; I recommend protection in the winter Sagina subulata Irish Moss a very useful, moss-like plant, really a flowering perennial with tiny white blossoms, best grown on gravelly soil and with a coarse layer of crushed stone on the surface, so that foliage dries off quickly after a rain, because it is prone to rot out in hot, humid summers; Nevertheless, no miniature landscape can go without it!

Sagina subulata 'Gold' this got bigger than I expected, use in rock garden Saxifraga cochlearis 'Minor' was quick to establish and striking to look at, but have to observe hardiness Saxifraga cotyledon great foliage, but the flowers a monstrous, on stalks 18" tall - use in rock garden Saxifraga paniculata 'Brevifolia' a beautiful alpine with crisp and crusty succulent foliage, Saxifraga paniculata 'Cockscomb' very interesting foliage, have to observe overwintering Jan 09: after going through several years, these alpine saxifrages don't care how cold the winter is. But they might suffer in the summer, if it is hot and rainy. Sedum acre a dangerous plant, it self-seeds prolifically; keep it away from your miniature landscape!

Sedum album teretifoium 'Murale' a spreading sedum, but not to the point of becoming dangerous; can be used with good effect in low-key areas or to simulate low, dense vegetation Sedum album micrantum vigorous, good looking, but too big for miniature gardens I would say Sedum kamtschaticum 'Weihenstephaner Gold' a very attractive sedum for the rock garden; might also work in miniature landscape of larger scale Sedum pachyclados very promising for miniature garden, my plants overwintered without problems Sempervivum arachnoideum easy to grow, very hardy Sempervivum arachnoideum 'Standsfieldii' smaller than above, even better for miniature landscapes Sempervivum pumilum super-tiny, beautiful in miniature gardens; fine proportions Sempervivum tectorum easy to grow, but might be too big for miniature gardens Sempervivum 'Oddity' exotic cinnamon-stick foliage, I have observed some reverting in this - have to see third season to say for sure Sempervivum Hybrids many are strikingly beautiful, but often too big for miniature garden use Silene a

caulis acaulis one of the smallest of my alpines, forming a tight cushion of juicy-green fine-textured foliage; I only recently planted this and have to observe overwintering.

Silene uniflora 'Compacta' Catchfly forms a small mat of grey-green foliage, sufficiently vigorous, beautiful flowers, and overwintered well. I recommend this charming plant for any miniature garden. Sisyrinchum angustifolium 'Luzerne' Blue-eyed Gras this can be used in a miniature garden like an iris would in a regular garden, blue flowers; does not seem to be long-lived Thalictrum kiusianum Dwarf Meadowrue low, vigorous and floriferous, good small foliage and fine, fluffy flowers on a mounded plant; an excellent plant! I also like to use this in woodland gardens - takes some shade! Sorry, the photo is blurred, I don't have a better one.

Thuja occidentalis 'Hetz Midget' Dwarf Arborvitae shaped like a boxwood, very slow growing, should be very suitable for miniature use if pruned to expose stem Thymus praecox 'Coccineus' good very low creeping thyme, lots of pinkish-purple flowers Thymus praecox 'Minus' Dwarf Creeping Thyme one of the smallest, and for the quality of its foliage the best creeping thyme; very dense carpets that are somewhat stiff and retain a certain thickness, and with very little browning out in the summer, not many flowers, but still my favorite miniature thyme, Thymus pseudolanuginosus Wooly Thyme I don't recommend this thyme because it often (always) rots in the foliage, even if planted on a slope! It might need to hang down from a wall to stay healthy. Tsuga canadensis 'Hussi' dwarf upright Hemlock all dwarf hemlocks are beautiful plants and fairly easy to grow, but not available in the trade (quarantine in ME and NH) Tsuga canadensis 'Jeddeloh'

Question: What is the Japanese art of miniature plant cultivation?
Answer: Bonsai