Pocket billiards history Home | History | Intro to Game | Rules | Scores | Blog/Comments | Merchandise | Contact History of Pocket Billiards The reason for a look back at history is to show the development of the billiard games that are now familiar. You will see that the existing popular games evolved primarily because of one overriding factor: THE EXISTING GAMES BECAME TOO EASY FOR TOP PLAYERS I believe that history is repeating itself at this moment for pocket billiard games. See what you think. This is the best information I found on the internet as to the history of Billiards. By the way, please forward additional history that is not presented in this article so that it can become a complete history of Billiards. Early History The origin of billiards will probably never be exactly pinpointed. While it may have sprung from earlier games played with balls on a table in China, Italy, or Spain, the best guess is that it originated in France as an indoor version of a lawn game similar to croquet.

(On the other hand, some historians have suggested that croquet originated as an outdoor version of billiards.) The name almost certainly comes from the French billart, the stick that was used, and that word probably comes from bille, meaning "ball." When first recorded, in the 15th century, the object of the game was to push a ball through a croquet-like wicket to hit a peg, similar to the stake in croquet. Players used a club-like stick, which became known as the "mace" in England. When the ball was up against a rail, however, the head of the mace was too unwieldy and the other, narrower end of the stick was used. This was called the "queue," meaning tail--hence the modern word, cue. Shakespeare refers to billiards in Antony and Cleopatra--which led one early sports historian to conclude that it was an old Egyptian sport--and by 1675 it was very popular in England.

The first known rule book was published that year, and its writer claimed that there were "few Towns of note therein which hath not a publick Billiard-Table." The first steps toward making billiards a "scientific" sport were taken by a Frenchman, known only as Captain Mingaud, who was a political prisoner in Paris during the French Revolution. While in prison, he enjoyed playing billiards so much that he refused to be released when his time was up. Mingaud discovered that, if he rounded the cue tip with a file, he could aim more accurately. He also added a leather tip to further improve control of the ball. After finally leaving prison, Mingaud traveled around France giving exhibitions and stirring a great deal of interest in the sport. The leather tip lost its effectiveness when it became shiny with use and had to be replaced frequently. An English billiards teacher, Jack Carr, learned that putting chalk on the tip prevented miscues. He was also evidently the first player to hit the ball off-center to apply spin. Carr was a genuine hustler.

He traveled around Europe during the 1820s, giving his demonstrations and selling his magical "twisting chalk" at an exorbitant price, throwing in a free lesson on how to make it work. As a result, the term "English" entered the lexicon of billiards--although, ironically, it's called "side" in England. By that time, there were several different versions of billiards. In France, the most popular game was carom billiards, played with three balls (occasionally four balls) on a pocketless table. As in modern billiards, the object was to hit both of the object balls with the cue ball--called a carom or a billiard. The most common game in England was also played with three balls, but on a table with six pockets. There were two ways of scoring: By pocketing a ball (other than the cue ball) or by hitting both of the other balls with the cue ball. This game is the ancestor of modern pocket billiards and English snooker. Billiards in America Because tables were difficult to make and expensive to import, billiards was strictly a rich man's sport in the American colonies, particularly in Virginia and New York.

Carom billiards was evidently introduced during the Revolution by French officers--the Marquis de Lafayette is known to have been an enthusiastic player. During the early 19th century, American craftsmen began to make tables. Although the average man certainly couldn't afford one, he could play on a public table, at least in New York City, where there were eight tables in coffeehouses and hotels by 1808 and about two dozen in 1824. During the 1840s, billiards became associated with pool parlors in large cities. The word "pool" at the time meant gambling (as in today's office pool for the Super Bowl), but it was soon attached to the American form of pocket billiards--still commonly known as pool. While gentlemen played billiards in their homes or in their exclusive clubs, the popular version of the sport developed a questionable reputation. But Michael Phelan, the owner of a New York billiard parlor, launched a one-man public relations campaign that helped to make billiards both popular and at least semi-respectable. Phelan began in 1850 by issuing a challenge to the English champion. It went unanswered, but it got publicity.

He also published a book, Billiards Without Masters, that went through ten editions between 1850 and 1875. As a manufacturer, Phelan added the diamond markers to tables to assist in aiming, particularly on bank shots. Phelan won $1,000 and the unofficial American championship by beating Ralph Benjamin of Philadelphia in 1858. The first championship tournament was also held that year, with eight competitors each putting up a $250 entry fee. Dudley Kavanagh won the tournament and its $2,000, winner-take-all prize. Kavanagh defended his championship against Michael Foley on April 12, 1859, when spectators were charged admission for the first time. That was greatly overshadowed, however, by the match two days later between Phelan and John Seereiter. It was held at a Detroit billiard academy that offered a $5,000 prize. Each of the competitors put up $5,000 as a side bet. The match drew extensive press coverage and attracted 500 paying spectators; many others were turned away for lack of space.

Phelan won the match and "the billiard championship of the United States," according to promoters. Phelan and Kavanagh were on a collision course, although they never met in a match. Each man used his championship to promote his own billiard equipment. After Phelan retired from competition in 1863, Kavanagh won another major tournament and was generally regarded as the champion. However, Phelan brought a large segment of the sport under his control by organizing the American Billiard Players Association in 1865. Kavanagh by forming the National American Billiards Association the following year. The feud between the two men and their organizations ended only with Phelan's death in 1871. Carom Billiards During this period, championship play was usually at four-ball carom billiards. Three-ball carom, a more difficult game, became more common during the 1870s because of the increasing skill of professional players. But even three-ball became much too easy, as players learned to "nurse" the balls near a cushion so they could score billiards by making essentially the same shot repeatedly.

The greatest master of the art was Jacob Schaefer Sr., who ran 3,000 points in a row to win an 1890 championship match. Balkline billiards was developed to cut down on nursing. In this version of the sport, balklines were drawn a certain distance from the rails to define balk areas. After one or two points were scored in a given balk area, at least one of the balls had to leave the area. An 8-inch balkline was introduced in 1883. The following year, 14.2 balkline billiards was established--so named because the balklines were 14 inches from the cushions and 2 billiards were allowed within a balk area. That was followed by 18.1 balkline in 1897 and 18.2 balkline in 1902. The first world championship at 18.2 balkline was held in Paris in February of 1903. The field of four included two Americans and two Frenchman; Schaefer didn't enter, although he was in Paris at the time. Maurice Vignaux of France won the championship.

Late in 1905, an 18-year-old American, Willie Hoppe, issued a challenge to Vignaux. The champion accepted, stipulating that the match be played in Paris for a $1,000 side bet, with the winner to collect the bet and all gate receipts. On January 15, 1906, Hoppe stunned the world by beating Vignaux. Although Hoppe did lose the title every so often, he reigned as world champion continually through 1927. Then 18.2 balkline was replaced by three-cushion billiards, in which the cue ball has to hit at least three cushions before striking the second object ball. Hoppe did pretty well at the version of billiards, too. He won his last world championship just before retiring in 1952, at the age of sixty-five. Pocket Billiards While carom billiards was considered a "respectable" sport, played by tuxedo-clad contestants in posh settings such as gentleman's clubs and hotel ballrooms, pocket billiards remained under a shadow through a good part of the twentieth century.

Even though its top players also donned tuxes and played most of their championship matches in similar posh settings, the aura of the poolroom lingered around the sport--and the poolroom wasn't considered a good place for young men. Pocket billiards is an American development of English billiards. While the carom version of the game got rid of the pockets and decreased the number of balls, the pockets were retained and the number of balls increased for pocket billiards. The first pocket billiards championship, in 1878, was won by a Canadian, Cyrille Dion. The game was then called "61 pool." Object balls were numbered 1 through 15, as they still are, and for sinking a ball the player was awarded the number of points represented by the number of the ball. Since the total of all values in a rack is 120, the winning score was 61. In 1888, it occurred to someone that a player could win at 61 pool by sinking only five of the balls while his opponent sank ten of them, and that simply counting the number of balls made might be a fairer system of scoring. That bright thought resulted in continuous pool.

That form of the sport can involve many racks. The player who sinks the last ball of a rack breaks the next rack, and scores are kept continuously, from one rack to the next, until someone wins by reaching a certain number of points, which can range from 50 to more than 1,000. Straight pool, also known as 14.1 pocket billiards, was developed in 1910 and eventually replaced continuous pool. It's still a major championship sport. The only real difference is that, after fourteen of the balls have been pocketed, the fifteenth is left on the table as a break ball, and the other fourteen balls are then re-racked. In most championship matches, 150 is the winning score. The most popular form of pool, eight ball, was invented about 1900. In eight ball, one player or team shoots the low balls, those numbered 1 through 7, which are represented by solid colors, and the other shoots the high balls, or "stripes." Once a player has made all seven of his balls, he or she can sink the eight ball to win the game.

A player can also win by sinking the eight ball on the break, or lose by sinking the eight ball out of turn. Nine ball originated as a gambling game about 1920. Only nine of the fifteen balls are used and the object is to sink the nine ball. The cue ball must first hit the lowest-numbered ball on the table, but the nine ball is often pocketed early either on a carom or on a combination shot off the original object ball. Growth, Decline, and Growth The great American champion, Willie Mosconi, worked hard to change pool's image. As an ambassador for the Brunswick Company, Mosconi played thousands of exhibition matches to popularize the sport after World War II. Brunswick helped by setting up clean, attractive pool rooms, often with professional instructors, in many of its bowling alleys. The Billiard Congress of America, organized in 1948, also launched an intensive public relations campaign for both carom and pocket billiards, with assistance from manufacturers. But pool got its biggest boost from the 1961 movie, "The Hustler," which starred Paul Newman and Jackie Gleason, with fine support from Piper Laurie and George C. Scott.

Although it portrayed a shady, often sordid world, the film romanticized the sport for many young men. The introduction at about the same time of the coin-operated (though under-sized) table resulted in a pocket billiards boom that lasted well into the 1970s. The sport then declined somewhat, only to be revived during the late 1980s. Some have credited another movie, "The Color of Money," a 1986 sequel to "The Hustler" in which Paul Newman reprised his role as "Fast Eddie" Felson and Tom Cruse played his young protï¿½gï¿½. While that movie probably had some effect, the fact that pocket billiards matches are frequently televised by ESPN may be even more important in pool's latest revival. Because the games are relatively short and therefore more suited to TV, nine ball is the championship game of choice, and nine ball has probably become as popular as eight ball among young players in today's family-oriented pool parlors.

While the upsurge of popularity in the 1960s was founded largely on pool rooms associated with bowling alleys and coin-operated tables in bars and taverns, the latest trend is toward stand-alone pool parlors, many of which offer snacks and soft drinks but no alcoholic beverages. Jillian's, a very successful chain of franchised pool rooms, had a public stock offering in 1991. Girls and young women have taken up the sport in record numbers. That, too, may be largely due to ESPN, which often features women's and "coed" championship matches. According to a study by the Billiards and Bowling Institute of America, 42.4 million Americans played billiards at least once in 1995, an increase of 20.4% over 1986. Even more significant, the number of "frequent" players--those who played 25 or more times a year, was at 11.3 million, up 21.3%. And females represented 36.4% of the players compared to fewer than 20% in 1986. Copyright © Check the Pockets Before You Play...

Billiards Billiard Resource Center Check the Pockets Before You Play... Check the Pockets Before You Play... Author: Curt Riedy We strongly encourage any reader who finds this information beneficial to share it with their friends or other interested parties. Our readers are encouraged to link to this article from their own websites. Pro Table Home Use Let it be known that not all pool tables are indeed alike. If youï¿½re considering your first pool table purchase, itï¿½s something you might not be aware of. The truth is, many tables actually feature different sized pockets that cater to either the advanced or beginning players. Itï¿½s very important to thoroughly check all six pockets before you seriously consider any table purchase. The Best Pocket Checking Method ï¿½ Roll a Few: Whether youï¿½re playing a game at a local hall or making your first table purchase, whatï¿½s the best method of checking a pool table? The most highly recommended thing to do is to roll a few balls into all the pockets at different speeds and angles. This should give you a good idea of what to expect when it comes time for you to line up your shot.

This method is also very effective when checking for signs of wear to both the pockets and the table itself. Two Major Differences in Table Pockets: Standard Pool Table Pocket Dimensions Corner Pocket 2 1/4 Balls' Width at Opening (Incredible Precision Necessary) Side Pocket 2 1/2 Balls' Width (Slightly More Forgiving than Corners) Tables with ï¿½Looseï¿½ Pockets make it relatively easy for players to sink their pool balls, and are tailor-made for both the beginning and intermediate player. However, itï¿½s the tables with ï¿½Tightï¿½ or ï¿½Proï¿½ Pockets that the relatively inexperienced player needs to watch out for. These specific tables, commonly used in tournament play, demand a great deal of precision from a playerï¿½s shot. In some cases, what appears to be a simple sink can actually be quite deceiving. Just how tricky are they? Well, considering the side pockets are almost the exact size of the ball itselfï¿½pretty tricky.

Most advanced tables, referred to as ï¿½four by ninesï¿½, have corner pockets that are 2ï¿½ balls' width at their openings, pretty much ensuring that the player has to make a perfect shot in order to sink their ball. The side pockets, however, are slightly larger (typically 2ï¿½ balls' width), as they are more difficult targets in general. Thankfully, the difference in pocket sizes allows for a relatively equal playing field. Billiard Hall Tables ï¿½ A Bit of Warning: In addition, itï¿½s also not a bad idea to do a quick table check when at your local pool hall. Considering most halls tend to have 1 or 2 tables specifically made for local champs and advanced players, this is especially important if and when money comes into play. In addition to tighter pockets, these tables tend to have a felt that allows for a faster speed than your average table. You should also keep in mind that these ï¿½proï¿½ tables not only make for a much more difficult game, but theyï¿½re often devised as traps for the unsuspecting player to get caught up in a hustle.

Hopefully, your local billiards hall has put up some signs such as ï¿½Easyï¿½ and ï¿½Hardï¿½ to designate the difference between these two tables. When it comes to having a plain olï¿½ good time at the pool hall, knowing the type of table youï¿½re playing on can make a world of difference. Pro Table Home Use ï¿½ A Good Idea: While they may be tricky outside of your playing zone, becoming adept at a home ï¿½proï¿½ table will most definitely allow you to achieve a notable advantage over your competition. It may even encourage you to have more at-home tournaments. Just remember, simply owning a ï¿½four by nineï¿½ wonï¿½t do anything but take up a lot of space. Youï¿½re going to have to practice on that thing, tooï¿½so no funny stuff. Basically, it all comes down to the gaming challenge you want to face. Is a quick and easy sink enough to make you happy when enjoying a home game? Will a rejected shot caused by a difficult pocket create enough motivation to make you want to practice harder and enhance your game?

Well, the answer is simple. Check the pockets on that table youï¿½re considering for purchase and see for yourself. Classic Leather & Plastic/Rubber Antique Pool Table Pockets Classic & Plastic/Rubber Pockets for Antique Billiard & Pool Tables How to identify your type of iron when ordering our pockets. Brass Plated Iron - #3 STYLE Regular Iron - #6 STYLE We offer two basic styles of pocket irons shown on the left. The Brassplated "Top Mounted" iron is a common iron in many tables. However, there were other "less common" irons used as well. If your irons are different than the standard "3" iron that we offer, we would be happy to use your pocket irons and wrap them with new leather components. The other iron we offer is a standard "Antique style 6 iron". Most people don't know there is an "Antique 6 iron" and a "Modern 6 iron". Modern style 6 irons that most people offer WILL NOT work on an antique table. Our "Antique style 6 irons" are intended to interchange with original antique 6 irons.

See here for what happens when you replace original antique style irons with "modern" number 6 irons. If you would like to have any of our antique style "number 3" pockets supplied with a chrome plated iron add $100 to the purchase price of any listed pocket below. Please call to special order these pockets. New pocket bolts available to work with our pockets under hardware section . Choose Bolt-4" or Bolt-4.5" if purchsing with pockets. The Pool Table The Pool Table The pool table, its light, and the surround is where all the action happens. Pool & Billiard tables are sized as a 2x by 1x rectangle. Pool (pocket billiard) tables have pockets in each corner and half-way along the sides. Table sizes are characterized by the table length in feet: Usual table sized are 7, 8, and 9 foot in the US. 6' -- Usually a small bar box, for small bars. 7' -- A Coin-op table used in bars is often called a Bar Box. 7' -- A table that fits in a lot of houses.

8' -- This is a common compromise size between a 9' and the smaller 7' 9' -- This is often called Regulation table, and is used for most professional pool events. 10' -- It's like a big 9' -- and can be really fun to shoot on! 12' -- Used overseas, usually in Britain and India, for snooker events. Construction A pool table has sturdy legs which support a subtantial frame. The frame is substantial because it has to support slate (aka rock) top that is the playing surface. Usual slate thicknesses are from 3/4 to 1-1/4 inch thick. Larger tables, carom tables, and higher quality tables can have even thicker slates -- IIRC the thickest slate used on some tables is 2" thick -- that is a lot of rock! Smaller tables (such as bar tables) often have one piece slates, while larger 8 and 9 foot (and the larger 10 and 12 foot) tables have 3-piece slate tops. This keeps the weight and size manageable. The slates are levelled up on top of the frame.

Levellers on a frame can be simple wood wedges, hi-tech wedges with screw jacks to position them, or plain adjustable screws. A Surround sits on top of the frame, and also the slates. The surround is the edge (apron) of the table, and also is part of the and upper top of the pool table, which provides a backing for the rails. The Rails are rubber bumpers of a certain profile that line the edges of the table and the pockets. The rails provide the rebound effect that allows balls to bounce off the rails and continue rolling along the table. Higher quality tables have better quality rubber rails. Both the profile and the rubber quality can be higher. These rails reflect the balls more perfectly with lower speed loss. The difference between cheap rails, bar box rails, and tournament rails can be amazing. It can also be frustrating to deal with the difference in their performance! The slates and the rails are covered by a fabric or cloth, also refered to as felt. There are various speeds of cloth, from slow to fast. Smaller tables are often covered with a slow fabric, and larger tables covered with a fast fabric.

This has the advantage that a similar shot strength works for similar (diamond, not distance wise) shots on both tables. A fast fabric is really fast, the increased distance doesn't slow the balls down as much. The fabric also has an effect of how the balls rebound from the rails, and affects bank angles as well. Dirty or old fabric has different (and sometimes opposite) effects than new or clean fabric. It all makes for an interesting game -- there is reason why people want to hit a few balls on a table before shooting a game -- they want to get dialed in to how that table rolls. How fast the fabric is, how the rails behave, and how open the pockets are. A pool or pocket billiards table has ... you guessed it, pockets cut into the rail at each corner and halfway along the long sides. The pockets are edged with the same rubber and fabric as the rails are. Pocket sizes can vary considerably between smaller pro cut pockets (barely 2 balls wide) and larger sloppy pockets which can fit 2 balls with room to spare. The pockets also have shelves, the amount of slate which continues beyond the edge of the rail to where the balls can drop into the actual pocket.

A larger shelf means that there is more table from the edge of the rail to the start of the drop in the pocket. The entrance angles cut into the rails to the pockets also vary from table to table. All these effects -- pocket size, shelf width, and pocket angles have a large effect on the pocket-ability of balls on a table. Bar Boxes have small shelves, large pockets, and more acute entrance angles on the side pockets compared to regulation tables. This means that the corner pockets in bar boxes often let almost any shot drop! It also means that the side pockets on bar tables are less forgiving than side pockets on a regulation table. How so? The entrance angle into the pocket is tighter, meaning balls can be pocketed into the side pockets from a smaller region of the table. The entrace angles really make things worse: instead of balls dropping into side pockets they often bounce out directly from the face of pockets! Tournament cut pockets on regulation tables are even narrower than pro-cut pockets. Basically the rails are a bit longer than normal to make the pocket entrance smaller. These pockets demand an even higher level of accuracy to pocket balls without the balls rattling in the pocket.

Some tables have Drop Pockets where the balls just drop into a plastic or leather mesh container after rolling off the shelf into the abyss. The better tables have large drop pockets on all 6 pockets, which allow for almost 15 balls in each pocket. Lesser tables often skimp on side pockets -- some side pockets only take 6 balls before filling up. Other tables have Ball Return Systems, which return the balls to a collection box at the foot of the table. Most bar boxes have some feature to sort the cue ball from the object balls and direct the cue ball to the head end of the table. This sorter used to be size based, but on most modern tables it works with a magnet which attracts the steel layer in the cue ball. Some tables used computer-driven sorters, which allow any all-white cue ball to be used in the table, so the cue ball doesn't become trapped in the rack. Implications It seems simple -- a longer table is harder to shoot on because there is more distance between the balls and the pockets. It's actually more complex than that ... because the balls and pockets don't change in size with the tables!

Playing on a 7' bar box is a different game than playing on a 9' regulation table: The pockets on the bar box occupy a larger percentage of the rails than the pockets on the regulation table -- you are more likely to scratch in a pocket. Shorter distances make for easier shotmaking. Balls on a bar box take up (a lot) more area on the table than the same number of balls on the regulation table. This means there is a lot more congestion when playing on a bar box. Pockets on the bar box are larger with smaller shelves and more likely to pocket shots that would rattle on the larger table. Except for those pesky side pockets on the bar table ... Don't get me wrong -- a talented player can play well on both tables. The base game is the same -- but the techniques and shots and tradeoffs change considerably. There is a similar type of difference between playing steel-tip and soft-tip darts. The board looks the same, but the trade-offs in the game change the way it is played considerably. Billiards and Pool Table FAQs cloth effects What affect does the condition of a cloth have on play? Two physical properties describe the condition of a cloth: sliding friction ("slick" vs.

"sticky") and rolling resistance ("slow vs. "fast"). A "slick" cloth has very little sliding friction and allows the CB to retain its spin longer. For example, it is much easier to draw the ball on a "slick" cloth. A "fast" cloth offer very little resistance to rolling, so the balls roll much farther before coming to rest. Cloth friction has an important effect on draw and follow shots at an angle. With a slick cloth, the CB persists along the tangent line longer before curving to the final direction, as demonstrated with speed changes in this video (a faster shot simulates slicker conditions): In general, a new and clean cloth in a dry climate is usually more "slick" and "faster" than old and dirty cloth in a humid climate. A dirty cloth can also lead to dirtier balls, which can result in more cling. For more info, see the cling resource page . For more information on how the drag effect of cloth friction affects various types of shots, see: follow shot drag effects Cloth friction also has an important effect on CB swerve and masse shots .

A slick cloth delays the curve, causing larger net cue ball deflection (the combined effects of squirt and swerve ) for sidespin shots, and causing the CB to swing out more with masse shots. For more info on the effects of humidity, see: humidity effects . Also see the ball surface treatment resource page , because reducing CB friction has the same effects as a slick cloth. What is pool table cloth made of, and what are the different brands and types? Here's a good cloth buying guide which explains various options: cushion compression How does the cushion deform during a high-speed kick or bank? Here's a good slo-mo video of this: HSV 6.1 - Cushion deformation during a high-speed kick or bank . And here's another: And here are some actual shots that take advantage of this effect: cushion nose height Why is the height of the rail cushion nose not at the center of the ball?

Here is the rail cushion nose height specification, as dictated by the WPA : "Rail height (nose-line to table-bed) should be 63 ½% (+1 %) or between 62 ½% and 64 ½ % of the diameter of the ball." If the cushion nose height were at the ball center (0.5D), instead, rebounding balls would slide more and would hop significantly if they come into the cushion with topspin (especially at fast speed). Another obvious height would be at the "center of percussion" of the ball (0.7D), per TP 4.2 , so the rebounding balls would tend to roll away from the rails more naturally. However, this height would tend to drive a rebounding ball down into the table, which would tend to slow the ball more, accelerate cloth wear (and faster formation of a "rail groove"), and cause the rebounding ball to hop. The WPA 0.635D offers a good compromise between the 0.5D and 0.7D values. This height was determined empirically to result in good rebound performance without too much ball hop or cloth wear.

drawing lines on the cloth How can I draw lines on the cloth for lining up practice shots or for marking the rack location? from Billy_Bob: I put lines on my table for practice by using a construction chalk line. You pull the line out of the spool, pull the line tight between the two points, then snap it. Then I vacuum up the excess dust. For example I place a line diagonal from corner pocket to corner pocket. Then can practice progressive straight in shots and align the balls exactly straight on the line. Also I use "tailor's chalk" which you can get at a fabric store or a sewing store. They use this to mark hems on pants legs for how high they should be. It is white and triangular shaped with sharp edges. I use this to mark where the rack goes on the table for quicker racking - commonly done with 14.1 (straight pool). Again this leaves "particles" on the table after marking, so I vacuum after marking the table. from Deeman (concerning the head string line): They use a pen with white ink. You can get one at a crafts store. The white pen does seem to be the best choice for permanent lines although i have the standard black ones.

Where can I find information on pool equipment specifications like cushion height? Here is a link to the official specifications published by the WPA: equipment specifications . how to clean and maintain What's the safest and most effective way to clean a table's cloth? from Fran Crimi: Two things you don't want to see happen to your cloth regardless of it's type, are stretching and breaking too many fibers which result in fuzziness. Vacuums with a hard pull will stretch the cloth. Rotating brushes will obviously break more fibers than non-rotating brushes. If I were you, I'd get rid of the rotating brushes and use a fine brush on a vacuum with a light pull. Then move the vacuum in one direction down table...and this has nothing to do with the cloth being directional or non-directional. This is about breaking the least amount of fibers as possible. Don't go back and forth like you're vacuuming your carpet. When you're done with that, run a slightly damp cloth in one direction down the length of the table, always towards the foot rail, and let it air dry. No blow dryers. Vacuum as infrequently as you can. The more often you do it, the more fibers you'll break.

Simonis 860 should not be even slightly fuzzy, unless you're breaking the fibers. What should I do to keep my table in good condition? from RSB_FAQ: 1. Keep the table clean - cover it when not in use; don't let food or drink near it; keep junk off the rails. Let everyone know that the table is to be treated with respect and care, then be sure and follow your own advice. 2. Avoid using talc. Also, do not chalk your cue over the table, or place the chalk upside-down [open-side down?] on the rails. 3. Brush your table regularly (after each session is not too often), and clean the rails with a damp cloth. 4. Vacuum the table at least every few weeks with a dust buster type. Avoid using a vacuum cleaner with rotating brushes unless you have worsted wool cloth, like Simonis or Granito. Also, if you have a non-worsted or directional cloth, always brush or vacuum the cloth in the same direction, usually head to foot. Vacuum the table brush itself to remove the chalk dust. 5. At least once a month, use a damp lint free towel to wipe down the cloth.

Some prefer instead to mist the cloth with a water and then brush it. 6. Wash the balls regularly, at least with water, or maybe mild soap and water. 7. If you want to practice jump or masse shots, get a little extra square of cloth to put under the cueball, or you may leave little white marks all over the table. 8. Don't let people sit on the rails - it will cause the cushions to come loose. How does an increase in humidity affect how a table plays? With more humid conditions, the following changes occur: The cloth plays slower (because of increased rolling resistance), and sidespin wears off faster. English "takes" more on the rails (i.e., the ball "bites" more due to increased friction). Draw shots are more difficult due to increased "drag" (due to the cloth playing "stickier" with increased sliding friction). Banks go "shorter" (due to more friction and CB hop). The CB hops off the rails more (and this delays post rebound curve, making the effective bank angle even shorter). The pockets play "tighter" because rebound is "shorter" (and rail-induced spin "takes" more) off the pocket walls.

The balls can throw more, and there can be more cling/skid/kick (because the balls tend to get more dirty and hold chalk residue more). Swerve happens sooner, so squerve (the combined effects of squirt and swerve) will be less. pocket sizes Are there standards for the sizes of the pockets on different tables? There are standard sizes (and other geometric specs), and they can be found on the WPA equipment specifications page . An illustration of the different parameters can be found in TP 3.5 . However, not all tables are made the same. Rails and pockets can vary significantly from one manufacturer to the next. The side pockets are usually larger than the corner pockets, especially on larger tables; however, on many coin operated "bar boxes," the opposite is often true. Pockets are also sometimes "shimmed" to make the openings smaller to make the table play "tougher." For more information about pockets, see: "speed" of the cloth What is the "speed" of the cloth, and how do you measure it?

Here's a good article from Joe Waldron on this topic, showing how to fabricate your own device to measure and compare cloth "speed." Related information concerning the effects of cloth "speed" on draw and drag shots can be found here . For more information on the effects of various cloth conditions, see cloth effects . from Bob Jewett (in AZB post ): It is also possible to measure the speed of a table with a stop watch. If you time a lag shot from far rail to stopping just before the near rail, the time in seconds squared times 2 gives you the reciprocal of the effective slope.

So, 7 seconds for a lag to travel the length of the table gives: 7*7*2 = 98 slope = 1/98 = 1.0% more or less On a carom table, it is not uncommon for a lag to take 10 seconds for the last lap of the lag: 10*10*1.8 = 180 (1.8 factor for a 10-foot table) slope = 1/180 = 0.55% Since most people can do lags and have stop watches or stop watch apps, this is a pretty simple and accurate way to measure table speed. Also, if a video has a lag, you can pick the speed of the table off the time of the video. standard pool table dimensions and required room sizes What are the standard pool table sizes and dimensions, and how large of a room is required for each?

Standard size pool tables, along with the playing surface dimensions (measured between the noses of the cushions) are: 12-ft (snooker): 140" (356.9 cm) x 70" (177.8 cm) 10-ft (over sized): 112" (284.5 cm) x 56" (142.2 cm) 9-ft (regulation size table): 100" (254 cm) x 50" (127 cm) 8-ft+ (pro 8): 92" (233.7 cm) x 46" (116.8 cm) 8-ft (typical home table): 88" (223.5 cm) x 44" (111.8 cm) 7-ft+ (large "bar box"): 78-82" (198.1-208.3 cm) x 39-41" (99.1-104.1 cm) 7-ft ("bar box"): 74-78

" (188-198.1 cm) x 37-39" (94-99.1 cm) 6-ft ("small bar box"): 70-74" (177.8-188 cm) x 35-37" (88.9-94 cm) More info can be found here: Wikipedia pool table dimensions resource page .

from RSB_FAQ: The minimum space for a table is the playing area plus the length of a cue (58") plus about 6 inches for the back swing, more for comfort, on each side. This gives: table 16'6" x 22'5" 5.03m x 6.83m "Seven foot" tables vary in size. Work down from the 8' dimensions. "8+" is an "oversized" 8-foot table. If your room does not meet these minimum size requirements, many billiard retailers will suggest that you can still put a table in, and use short cues (52", or 48"). Many people have found they are unhappy having to resort to shorter cues, and should have either gotten a smaller table, or no table at all. Others, of course, take the opposite view -- they are delighted to have any table. In the end, only you will know whether you are happy with the room dimensions and need for short cues. Before you spend $2000 for a table that will cause you to smash the walls in frustration, try this: (1) Find an indulgent pool hall when it's not busy.

(2) Measure your space (at home) carefully, including the distance from the table to all walls that require a special cue (3) Go to the pool hall with a piece or pieces of plywood or some such, and a short cue, and set up the "walls" to replicate where the walls would be in your house. Play for several hours, using the short cue when needed. Between two tables you can do with about the length of a cue, the limit is caused not by the cue, but by the player being able to go into his stance between the tables. Deluxe rooms really need more room on all sides to let possible passers-by move without bumping into the players. from realkingcobra (on AZB ): A 4 1/2 x 9ft pool table gets it's measurements from finish of rail to finish of rail.

4 1/2 feet = 54" 9ft = 108" Take the playing surface of a 9ft pool table, it's 50"x100" now add in the 2" of cloth on the cushions on the side rails to the playing surface, what you come up with is 2" of cushion/cloth on the left side rail, plus 2" of cloth/cushion on the right side rail, plus the 50" of the playing surface from side to side. Now, add that together and you have 2"+2"+50" = 54" which equals 4 1/2 feet.

Now, if you double that measurement you'd be adding up 4 side rails at 2" each...remember you're DOUBLING the width, so that means instead of adding just 2 rails, you'd be adding up the width of 4 rails, at 2" each, plus you'd be doubling the width of the table side to side being 50" twice, so thats 100"...now add up....2"+2"+2"+2"+50"+50"= 108" which equals 9 feet even, EXCEPT....we all know all pool tables only have 2 end rails and NOT 4, so in order to keep the playing surface twice as long as it is wide...you have to subtract 2 of them 4 rails as ghost rails....meaning they're not really there on the pool table, so if you take and subtract the 4" of ghost rails from the 9ft...108" that leaves you with 104", now subtract the 4" of cloth/cushions that ARE on the table, and you end up with 100"....so that's how you get a 50"x100" playing

 surface out of a 4 1/2 x 9 pool table.

table difficulty factor (TDF) Is there a way to measure and quatify how difficult a table plays? The Table Difficulty Factor (TDF) system provides a very easy system to measure how "tough" a table plays. It is based on table size and the three corner-pocket measurements illustrated below. Four factors are used to account for table size, pocket size, pocket wall angle, and pocket shelf depth. Each factor is a number less than, equal to, or greater than 1, where 1 indicates average or standard. By multiplying the four factors, you get the TDF which is a good measure of table "toughness." If TDF=1, the table has an average level of difficulty; if TDF>1, the table plays more difficult than average; and if TDF<1, the table plays easier than average.

See the Table Difficulty Factor (TDF) document to see how values for the following four factors are assigned: TSF: table size factor The total Table Difficulty Factor (TDF) is calculated by multiplying the four factors: TDF = TSF x PSF x PAF x PLF The TDF can also be calculated automatically from table and pocket measurements using the Excel TDF calculator spreadsheet or the mobile-friendly online tool provided by "Isaac" on AZB . Example TDF ratings for a wide range of table sizes, types, and brands can be found in the AZB TDF thread . The TDF can be used to adjust numbers from any scoring or rating system like the Billiard University Exams , "playing the ghost" drills , Hopkins Q Skills drill , or the Fargo rating drill or handicapping system . An effective score, taking table difficulty into consideration, can be calculated with: (effective score) = (raw score) x TDF See the TDF document for details and examples. And for more information, see: " Billiard University (BU) - Part IV: Table Difficulty " (BD, November, 2013).

All of the values and ranges for the individual TDF factors (TSF, PSF, PAF, PLF) were chosen very carefully based on how each factor affects the margin of error for a wide range of shots. In particular, the analyses and data in TP 3.4 - Margin of error based on distance and cut angle , TP 3.6 - Effective target sizes for slow shots into a corner pocket at different angles , and pocket "size" and "center" resource page were good starting points. However, adjustments were made based on anecdotal and empirical evidence for how tough a wide range of tables actual play. Many people provided input to guide these changes. Quite a few AZB users provided valuable input and feedback on the AZB TDF thread ; and Mark Finkelstein, Mike Page, and Bob Jewett were particularly helpful in sharing their experience and judgement. Some of the factors that helped guide the adjustments include: On a smaller table, shot distances are generally shorter, and everything is easy to reach without a mechanical bridge; but on a larger table, there is less "traffic" with position play and balls are less likely to cluster. Pocket size is the most important attribute affecting pocket difficulty.

When the pockets are very small, further tightening has a much bigger effect since the precision required will be pushing the limits for even the best players. And for big pockets, an increase might have very little effect for most shots where the precision required is well within the limits for even a mediocre player. For many shots, especially with a better player, a significant portion of the pocket margin is available for pocket cheating. In other words, many balls can be easily pocketed, and making the pocket smaller does more to limit pocket cheating than cause misses. For people who are not very accurate shot makers, both table size and pocket size make a huge difference, especially on bigger tables with "tighter" pockets. For accurate shot makers, a table size increase does not increase overall difficulty very much, especially if the pockets are not very "tight." Pocket facing-angles and shelf depth are more important with smaller pockets (where the pocket points will be hit more often). Shelf depth isn't as important as pocket size and facing angle, but it definitely has an effect. For more rationale and justification, see " Billiard University (BU) - Part IV: Table Difficulty " (BD, November, 2013).

from realkingcobra in AZB post : Facings play a major role in rejecting balls from pockets as do cushions. Take the Olhausen tables for example. The cushions are very...very soft, the facings are 1/8" and very soft. What happens on an Olhausen table is that when you're attempting to pocket a ball in the corner pocket coming down the rails, you're shooting the ball right into the outer have of the pocket facing with no rail wood support behind the cushion. When you do this, what happens is that when the ball being pocketed hits the facing, instead of deflecting to-wards the back of the pocket, it compresses the facing and cushion kind of like creating a flat spot at the end of the cushion, which in turn kicks the ball across the pocket to the opposite facing and back out again, and you don't even have to shoot the shot hard to get this "rejection" to happen. So, now comes in the role of the facings.

If the soft 1/8" facings are replaced with harder 3/16" neoprene facings, these facings don't compress nearly as much when you shoot a ball into them, so the balls that would normally reject....go in because they deflect off the facings deeper into the back of the pocket. from Sloppy Pockets in AZB post , concerning how to properly measure the pocket mouth and throat dimensions (at the intersections of the yellow lines, not at the labeled red dimensions): from iusedtoberich AZB post : Perhaps something like laying post it notes stuck on the cushion can extend the lines of the cushion to a real intersection point, that can then be measured to and from. What are all of the terms used to describe different features on a pool table? from Bob_Jewett: World Pool-Billiard Association Tournament Table & Equipment Specifications (Effective November 2001 ) 1. Purpose The purpose of these specifications shall be to set standards for equipment used at all WPA World Championships, WPA World Tour events and other WPA sanctioned and/or recognized events. These specifications do not necessarily apply to tables manufactured for commercial home use.

At its sole discretion, the World Pool-Billiard Association can sanction tournaments on tables not in compliance with these specifications. 2. Table Bed Height Shall be between 29 ¼ inches [74.295 cm] and 31 inches [78.74 cm]. 3. Design Shall not have any sharp edges or materials that might cause injuries or damage clothes. Construction should be adequate enough so that the table will remain stable and level under all conditions of play. 4. Slates The thickness must be at least 1 inch [2.54 cm], and the playing surface must be capable, either by its own strength or a combination of its strength and that of the table base frame, of maintaining an overall flatness within + .020 inches [.508 mm] lengthwise and + .010 inches [.254 mm] across the width. Further this surface should have an additional deflection not to exceed .030 inches [.762 mm] when loaded with a concentrated static force of 200 pounds [90.7 kg] at its center.

All slate joints must be in the same plane within .005 inch [.127 mm] after leveling and shimming. Tournament tables must have a set of slates consisting of three pieces of equal size with wooden frame of at least ¾ inch [1.905 cm] thick lumber attached underneath the slate. The slate sections must be secured to the base frame with countersunk screws or bolts. 5. Playing Surface The playing surface (area) must be rectangular, and symmetrical when the pocket configurations are included: 9 foot - 100 (+ 1/8) x 50 (+ 1/8) inches (except cushions)/ [2.54 m (+ 3.175 mm) x 1.27 m (+ 3.175 mm)] 8 foot - 92 (+ 1/8) x 46 (+ 1/8) inches (except cushions)/ [2.3368 m (+ 3.175 mm) x 1.1684 m (+ 3.175 mm)] 6.

Rail and Cushion The rail width must be between 4 [10.16 cm] and 7 ½ inches [19.05 cm] including the rubber cushions. 18 sights (or 17 and a name plate) shall be attached flush on the rail cap with: 12 ½ inches [31.75 cm] from sight to sight on a 9-foot regulation table 11 ½ inches [29.20 cm] from sight to sight on a 8-foot regulation table. The center of each sight should be located 3 11/16 (+ ) inches [93.6625 mm (+ 3.175 mm)] from the nose of the cushion. The sights may be round (between 7/16 [11.11 mm] and ½ inch [12.7 mm] in diameter) or diamond-shaped (between 1 x 7/16 [25.4 x 11.11 mm] and 1 ¼ x 5/8 inch [31.75 x 15.875 mm]).

Any nameplates and score counters should be flush level with rail top. All rail bolts should be thus located that when properly torqued render a quiet and optimum rebound from any point of the cushion nose of the table. 7. Height of the Cushion Rubber cushions should be triangular in shape with the width of the cloth-covered cushion being between 1 7/8 [4.76 cm] and 2 inches [5.40 cm] measured from the outer edge of the featherstrip to the nose of the cushion. Rail height (nose-line to table-bed) should be 63 ½% (+1 %) or between 62 ½% and 64 ½ % of the diameter of the ball. 8. Cushion Rubber Table cushions should influence the speed of the table such that with placement of a ball on the head spot, shooting through the foot spot, using center ball english, with a level cue and firm stroke, the ball must travel a minimum of 4 to 4 ½ lengths of the table without jumping. 9.

Pocket Openings and Measurements Only rubber facings of minimum 1/16 [1.5875 mm] to maximum ¼ inch [6.35 mm] thick may be used at pocket jaws. The WPA-preferred maximum thickness for facings is 1/8 inch [3.175 mm]. The facings on both sides of the pockets must be of the same thickness. Facings must be of hard re-enforced rubber glued with strong bond to the cushion and the rail, and adequately fastened to the wood rail liner to prevent shifting. The rubber of the facings should be somewhat harder than that of the cushions. The pocket openings for pool tables are measured between opposing cushion noses where the direction changes into the pocket (from pointed lip to pointed lip). This is called mouth.

Corner Pocket Mouth: between 4.5 [11.43 cm] and 4.625 inches [11.75 cm] Side Pocket Mouth: between 5 [12.7 cm] and 5.125 inches [13.0175 cm] *The mouth of the side pocket is traditionally ½ inch [1.27 cm] wider than the mouth of the corner pocket. Vertical Pocket Angle (Back Draft): 12 degrees minimum to15 degrees maximum. Horizontal Pocket Cut Angle: The angle must be the same on both sides of a pocket entrance. The cut angles of the rubber cushion and its wood backing (rail liner) for both sides of the corner pocket entrance must be 142 degrees (+1). The cut angles of the rubber cushion and its wood backing (rail liner) for both sides of the side pocket entrance must be 104 degrees (+1). Shelf: The shelf is measured from the center of the imaginary line that goes from one side of the mouth to the other - where the nose of the cushion changes direction - to the vertical cut of the slate pocket cut. Shelf includes bevel.

Corner Pocket Shelf: between 1 [2.54 cm] and 2 ¼ inches [5.715 cm] Side Pocket Shelf: between 0 and .375 inches [.9525 cm] 10. Pocket Liners The pocket liners and boots should be of long wearing plastic, rubber or leather. The material the liners and boots are made of should not permanently mark (stain) the balls or cues. The upper part of the inner wall must be so fashioned that whenever a ball hits the pocket liner wall below the rim at the top of the rail, the ball is directed downwards. 11. Ball Return and Drop Pockets Both drop pockets and automatic ball returns can be used, but must be as noiseless as possible. Drop pockets must have a basket capacity of at least 6 balls. Automatic ball returns must be properly installed so that pocketed balls are not trampolined back to the table or off the table. 12.

Cloth The cloth must be non-directional, nap-free billiard fabric which will not pill or fluff, composed of composed of between 80% and 85% combed worsted wool, and between 15% to 20% nylon. 100% combed worsted wool fabric is preferred. No backed cloth will be allowed. Only the colors of yellow-green, blue-green or electric blue are acceptable for WPA competition. 13. Fastening of the Cloth (Guidelines) Before cloth-covering the slate, a strip of canvas (or table-cloth) should be glued to the vertical pocket cuts of the slates and their underlying wooden slate liner. The table-bed cloth must be stretched for "proper tension" and mechanically attached to the underlying wooden slate liner with fully driven fasteners (staples or tacks) spaced a maximum of 1 inch on center approximately, with at least inch [.9525 cm] penetration into the wooden slate liner. Guidelines for proper tension are as follow: 1. Length of the cloth should be manually stretched as tight as possible, and then relieved ½ inch [1.27 cm] before attachment, and 2.

Width of the cloth should be manually stretched as tight as possible, and then relieved ¼ inch [.635 cm] before attachment. When covering the cushions, the cloth must be lengthwise evenly and consistently well-stretched while inserting the featherstrip as well as thereafter. While the cloth is in a stretched condition lengthwise, the cloth must then be stretched in the width up to the moment when indentation of the nose of the rubber cushion is about to start and attached underneath the wooden rail with fully driven fasteners (staples or tacks) spaced a maximum of 3/4 inch [1.905 cm] on center approximately, with at least 3/8 inch [.9525 cm] penetration into the wood. At the side pocket openings, the rails are to be covered with a minimum overlapping of fabric over the facings. When doing overlappings, great care must be taken so that hidden folds, if any, do not cause balls to jump off the table during play. No folds are allowed in the cloth over the facings of the corner pockets. 14. Cleaning Table and Rail Cloth (Advised Preparation) The WPA recommends only the colors green and blue for chalk.

A soft (horse hair) brush, a cloth-cleaner made with billiard fabric, or a brushless (without rotating brush) vacuum cleaner are the recommended table and cushion cleaning devices. Brushes that shed bristles are not recommended. 15. Lights The bed and rails of the table must receive at least 520 lux (48 footcandles) of light at every point. A screen or reflector configuration is advised so that the center of the table does not receive noticeably more lighting than the rails and the corners of the table. If the light fixture above the table may be moved aside (referee), the minimum height of the fixture should be no lower than 40 inches [1.016 m] above the bed of the table. If the light fixture above the table is non-movable, the fixture should be no lower than 65 inches [1.65 m] above the bed of the table. The intensity of any directed light on the players at the table should not be blinding. Blinding light starts at 5000 lux (465 footcandles) direct view.

The rest of the venue (bleachers, etc.) should receive at least 50 lux (5 footcandles) of light. 16. Balls and Ball Rack All balls must be composed of cast phenolic resin plastic and measure 2 ¼ (+.005) inches [5.715 cm (+ .127 mm)] in diameter and weigh 5 ½ to 6 oz [156 to 170 gms]. Balls should be unpolished, and should also not be waxed. Balls should be cleaned with a towel or cloth free of dirt and dust, and may also be washed with soap and water. Balls contaminated with any slippery substance - treated with a polishing or rubbing compound and/or waxed - must be cleansed and dewaxed with a clean cloth moistened with diluted alcohol before play. A complete set of pool balls consists of one white cue ball and fifteen color-coded, numbered object balls. The object balls are clearly and highly visibly numbered 1 through 15. Each object ball has its number printed twice, opposite each other, one of the two numbers upside down, black on a white round background.

The object balls numbered 1 through 8 have solid colors as follows: 1=yellow, 2=blue, 3=red, 4=purple, 5=orange, 6=green, 7=maroon and 8=black. The object balls numbered 9 through 15 are white with a centered band of color as follows: 9=yellow, 10=blue, 11=red, 12=purple, 13=orange, 14=green and 15=maroon. The two printed numbers 6 and 9 are underscored. The wooden triangular ball rack is the recommended device to be used to rack the balls to ensure that the balls are properly aligned and in contact with each other. Both surfaces that can make contact with the table-cloth when moving loaded rack to and fro, should be very smooth in order not to incur any damage to the cloth underneath. Plastic racks are not recommended, they are flexible and tend to deform, making proper racking of balls time-consuming, if not impossible. 17.

Cue Sticks Cue Sticks used at WPA competitions should comply with the following during play at table: Length of Cue: 40 inches [1.016 m] minimum / No Maximum Weight of Cue: No minimum / 25 oz. [708.75 gm] maximum Width of Tip: No minimum / 14mm maximum The cue tip may not be of a material that can scratch or damage the addressed ball. The cue tip on any stick must be composed of a piece of specially processed leather or other fibrous or pliable material that extends the natural line of the shaft end of the cue and contacts the cue ball when the shot is executed.. The ferrule of the cue stick, if of a metal material, may not be more than 1 inch [2.54 cm] in length. 18. Mechanical Bridge The mechanical bridge, also called rake, crutch or rest, is an accessory of the billiard sports table and consists of a stick with a bridge head mounted at its end to support the shaft of the cue stick replacing the hand bridge during shots difficult to reach. The stick or handle of the mechanical bridge is very similar in shape to the cue stick.

The bridge head has notches or grooves, usually at various heights, in which the cue shaft can rest. The contour of the bridge head should be smooth in order not to mar the cue shaft or rip the threads of the table-cloth when being used. 19. Spacing Between Tables In WPA-sanctioned competitions a minimum measurement of 6 feet [1.83 m] is required between the outside edge of the table rail in every horizontal direction and obstacle (table, chair, rail, etc.). 20. Table Recognized by the WPA Only tables that are recognized by the WPA can be used at a WPA-sanctioned or recognized event. The History of Pool, Billiards, English Billiards, Snooker, Eight-Ball, Cue Stick, Billiard Congress of America â€“ The Billiard Shop Share History Of Billiards (or Pool) Condensed version of "A Brief History of the Noble Game of Billiards" By Mike Shamos. Curator of The Billiard Archive, a nonprofit organization set up to preserve the game’s history. With permission of the Billiard Congress of America. The History of billiards is long and very rich.

The game has been played by kings and commoners, presidents, mental patients, ladies, gentlemen, and hustlers alike. It evolved from a lawn game similar to the croquet played some-time during the 15th century in Northern Europe and probably in France. Play moved indoors to a wooden table with green cloth to simulate grass, and a simple border was placed around the edges. The balls were shoved, rather than struck, with wooden sticks called "maces." The term "billiard" is derived from French, either from the word "billart", one of the wooden sticks, or "bille", a ball. Most of our information about early billiards comes from accounts of playing by royalty and other nobles. It has been know as the "Noble Game of Billiards" since the early 1800’s but there is evidence that people from all walks of life played the game since its inception. In 1600, the game was familiar enough to the public that Shakespeare mentioned it in Antony and Cleopatra.

Seventy-five years later, the first book of billiards rules remarked of England that there were few "few Tones of note therein which hath not a publick Billiard-Table." The cue stick was developed in the late 1600’s. When the ball lay near a rail, the mace was very inconvenient to use because of its large head. In such a case, the players would turn the mace around and use its handle to strike the ball. The handle was called a "queue" meaning "tail" from which we get the word "cue." For a long time only men were allowed to use the cue; women were forced to use the mace because it was felt they were more likely to rip the cloth with the shaper cue. Tables originally had flat walls for rails and their only function was to keep the balls from falling off. They resembled river banks and even used to be called "banks". Players discovered that balls could bounce off the rails and began deliberately aiming at them. Thus a "bank shot" is one in which a ball is made to rebound from a cushion as part of the shot. Billiard equipment improved rapidly in England after 1800, largely because of the Industrial Revolution.

Chalk was used to increase friction between the ball and the cue stick even before cues had tips. The leather cue tip, with which a player can apply side-spin to the ball, was perfected by 1823. Visitors from England showed Americans how use spin, which explains why it is called "English" in the United States but nowhere else. (The British themselves refer to it as "side".) The two-piece cue arrived in 1829. Slate became popular as a material for table beds around 1835. Goodyear discovered vulcanization of rubber in 1839 and by 1845 it was used to make billiard cushions. A two-to-one ratio of length to width became standard in the 18th century. Before then, there were no fixed table dimensions. By 1850, the billiard table had essentially evolved into its current form. The dominant billiard game in Britain from about 1770 until the 1920’s was English Billiards, played with three balls and six pockets on a large rectangular table.

The British billiard tradition is carried on today primarily through the game of snooker, a complex and colorful game combining offensive and defensive aspects and played on the same equipment as English Billiards but with 22 balls instead of three. The British appetite for snooker is approached only by the American passion for baseball; it is possible to see a snooker competition every day in Britain. The dominant American billiard game until the 1870’s was American Four-Ball Billiards, usually played on a large (11 or 12-foot), four-pocket table with four balls - two white and two red. It was a direct extension English Billiards. Points were scored by pocketing balls, scratching the cue ball, or by making caroms on two or three balls. A "carom" is the act of hitting two object balls with the cue ball in one stroke. With many balls, there were many different ways of scoring and it was possible to make up to 13 pints on a single shot. American Four-Ball produced two offspring, both of which surpassed it in popularity by the 1870’s.

One, simple caroms played with three balls on a pocketless table, is something known as "Straight rail", the forerunner of all carom games. The other popular game was American Fifteen-Ball Pool, the predecessor of modern pocket billiards. The word "pool" means a collective bet, or ante. Many non-billiard games, such as poker, involve a pool but it was to pocket billiards that the name became attached. The term "poolroom" now means a place where pool is played, but in the 19th century a poolroom was a betting parlor for horse racing. Pool tables were installed so patrons could pass time between races. The two became connected in the public mind, but the unsavory connotation of "poolroom" came from the betting that took place there, not from billiards. Fifteen-Ball Pool was played with 15 object balls, numbered 1 through 15. For sinking a ball, the player received a number of points equal to the value of the ball. The sum of the ball values in a rack is 120, so the first player who received more than half the total, or 61, was the winner.

This game, also called "61-Pool" was used in the first American championship pool tournament held in 1878 and won by Cyrille Dion, a Canadian. In 1888, it was thought more fair to count the number of balls pocketed by a player and not their numerical value. Thus, Continuous Pool replaced Fifteen-Ball Pool as the championship game. The player who sank the last ball of a rack would break the next rack and his point total would be kept "continuously" from one rack to the next. Eight-Ball was invented shortly after 1900; Straight Pool followed in 1910. Nine-Ball seems to have developed around 1920. While the term "billiards" refers to all games played on a billiard table, with or without pockets, some people take billiards to mean carom games only and use pool for pocket games. Through the 1930’s, both pool and billiards, particularly three-cushion billiards, shared the spotlight. From 1878 until 1956, pool and billiard championship tournaments were held almost annually, with one-on-one challenge matches filling the remaining months.

At times, including during the Civil War, billiard results received wider coverage than war news. Players were so renowned that cigarette cards were issued featuring them. Pool went to war several times as a popular recreation for the troops. Professional players toured military posts giving exhibitions; some even worked in the defense Industry. But the game had more trouble emerging from World War II than it had getting into it. Returning soldiers were in a mood to buy houses and build careers, and the charm of an afternoon spent at the pool table was a thing of the past. Room after room closed quietly and by the end of the 1950’s it looked as though the game might pass into oblivion. Billiards was revived by two electrifying events, one in 1961, the other in 1986. The first was the release of the movie, "The Hustler". The black-and-white film depicted the dark life of a pool hustler with Paul Newman in the title role. New rooms opened all over the country and for the remainder of the 60’s pool flourished until social concerns, the Vietnam War, and a desire for outdoor coeducational activities led to a decline in billiard interest.

In 1986, "The Color of Money", the sequel to "The Hustler" with Paul Newman in the same role and Tom Cruise as an up-and-coming professional, brought the excitement of pool to a new generation. The result was the opening of "upscale" rooms catering to people whose senses would have been offended by the old rooms if they had ever seen them. This trend began slowly in 1987 and has since surged. In the 1920’s, the poolroom was an environment in which men gathered to loiter, smoke, fight, bet, and play. The rooms of today bear no resemblance to those of the earlier times. Until very recently, billiards was completely dominated by men. The atmosphere of the poolroom was very forbidding and women had trouble being accepted there. Nonetheless, women have been enthusiastic players since the game was brought up from the ground in the 15th century. For over 200 hundred years, women of fashion have played the game.

In the past, it was very difficult for a woman to develop billiard skills because male players, her family, and friends usually did not support her efforts and it was not easy to find experienced female instructors or coaches. As these situations have changed, and continue to change, we can expect women to equal men in ability and take the game to new heights. FAQ

Question: How many pockets does the modern pocket billiards table have?
Answer: 6