Cook Islands travel guide - Wikitravel Time Zone UTC-10 The Cook Islands are a self-governing parliamentary democracy in free association with New Zealand , located in Polynesia, in the middle of the South Pacific Ocean , between French Polynesia (Society Islands) to the east and Tonga to the west. This archipelago has 15 inhabited islands spread out over 2.2 million square kilometres of ocean with no land between the tropical Cook Islands and Antarctica . With the same time zone and latitude (south, rather than north) as Hawaii, the islands are sometimes thought of as "Hawaii down under". Though smaller, it reminds some elderly visitors of Hawaii before statehood without all the large tourist hotels and other development. History[ edit ] Named after Captain Cook, who sighted them in 1770, the islands became a British protectorate in 1888. By 1900, administrative control was transferred to New Zealand; in 1965 residents chose self-government in free association with New Zealand. New Zealand handles defence, foreign affairs (including issuing passports) and currency; otherwise the islands are self-governing.

This includes immigration, which is strictly controlled -- even for non Cook Island New Zealanders. People[ edit ] Many Cook Islanders will tell you how there are more Cook Islanders living in New Zealand and Australia than in the Cook Islands. The population of the Cook Islands is less than 15,000 but there are over 50,000 Cook Islanders living in New Zealand , and over 30,000 in Australia . Those remaining have often spent time in Auckland , Melbourne or Sydney before returning home. Climate[ edit ] Tropical, moderated by trade winds. Rarotonga has average maximum temperatures of around 25°C (77°F) in winter (May-October) and 29°C (82°F) in summer (November-April), temperatures in the northern islands are several degrees higher. Rainfall mostly occurs in summer, usually in the form of afternoon storms. Cyclone season is November to March, although the islands are hit by a big one only once every five years or so. Terrain[ edit ] The Northern Cook Islands are seven low-lying, sparsely populated, coral atolls.

The Southern Cook Islands consist of eight elevated, fertile, volcanic isles where most of the populace lives. Tourism[ edit ] Tourism facilities are well developed on Rarotonga and Aitutaki , and information is available. However you won't see a single tout, and tourist scams are unheard of. If you want to organize something, it usually isn't hard to do, but you will need to make the first move. Get in[ edit ] All visitors to the Cook Islands, irrespective of nationality, are visa exempt for a maximum stay of 31 days. Visitors travelling for touristic purposes may extend their stay, for periods of 31 days, up to a maximum of 6 months. There is a departure tax of $55 per person adult and $15 per child between 2 and 12 but this is now included in your ticket price. You must have a reservation for accommodation pre-arranged or you may be sent back (or onward) on the next flight out. Camping on the beach is not allowed. By plane[ edit ] Rarotonga International Airport ( IATA : RAR) is the main gateway to the Cook Islands.

There are daily services to Auckland (3.5h) and weekly services to Sydney , Fiji and to Los Angeles . The only international airlines at present are Air New Zealand, once-weekly Air Tahiti, and twice-weekly Virgin Australia (ex. Pacific Blue). Air New Zealand has code share arrangements with other Star Alliance members including United Airlines , and Rarotonga is a popular stopover on Round the world flights . See the Rarotonga article for airport details. By boat[ edit ] Rarotonga and Aitutaki are regular stops for cruises operating from Tahiti. Other cruise companies also stop by occasionally. If you're planning to sail to the islands you must enter through one of the five designated ports of entry. These are Rarotonga, Aitutaki and Atiu in the Southern group, and Penrhyn and Pukapuka in the Northern group. By plane[ edit ] Domestic inter-island service is provided by Air Rarotonga . Although you can book flights through Air New Zealand, it is usually cheaper to do so directly with Air Rarotonga. This has become much easier in the past few years, now that they offer on-line booking.

Unless you're a member of Air New Zealand's "Airpoints Dollars" program, you won't receive any airline miles for Air Rarotonga -- and then only if you book through Air New Zealand, often at a higher price. Star Alliance mileage for Air Rarotonga is not available. Most of the outer islands have only unpaved runways. However, landing won't be much rougher than that of a paved runway. If you've never landed on an unpaved runway before, it's nothing to be overly concerned about, and you've probably had a few rougher landings on a paved runway. By boat[ edit ] The intrepid traveller can visit all inhabited islands by inter island freighters, but these can be weeks apart or worse if you want to get the really remote islands. Details of services are published in local island newspapers. There are no generally scheduled boat or ferry services between the inhabited islands. There are two uninhabited islands - Takutea and Manuae. The only easy way for a visitor to get to Takutea is on the research vessel Bounty Bay operated by Rarotonga-based Pacific Expeditions, which has special permission to run occasional Eco tours.

On Rarotonga[ edit ] There is a bus line that circles around the island, in both directions. Although there are official bus stops, the driver has no problem stopping where ever you want him to. As for the drivers: Often they like to chat a bit, and make some jokes, so if you for any reason should need some cheer-up, just take the bus! It is very common for tourists to rent a scooter, but you need to make a Cook Island driving license. If you have a valid driving license, it is just a formality, but bring some time, since there is usually rush hour the day after the plane from New Zealand arrived. Talk[ edit ] There are five living languages in the Cook Islands with English and Cook Islands Maori the official languages. Cook Islands Maori is called Rarotongan after the capital island and is the most widely spoken version of Maori in the Islands. Others are Penrhynese, unique to the Northern group island of Penrhyn and rapidly disappearing, and Rakahanga-Manihiki, spoken by about 2,500 Cook Islanders, only half of whom on the two islands from which it takes its name.

On the remote Northern group island of Pukapuka, the islanders have a unique language of their own called Pukapukan of which there is no written version. It is more like Samoan, and some of it cannot even be understood by other Cook Islanders. But even there, English is spoken, albeit not widely. Children, though, are taught it in school. At the very least, the visitor will quickly learn the usual greeting, "kia orana" which means "may you live long". Do[ edit ][ add listing ] You can do some really nice snorkeling in the lagoon that surrounds Rarotonga. Or go scuba diving outside the lagoon (there is at least one dive shop). Among the usual reef inhabitants you can see turtles, rays, and when the season is right, you might even see whales. Visit the market on Rarotonga. A good chance to enjoy fresh ika mata, to watch some traditional dancing and to buy some craftwork. Find a guide and take a hike into the mountains. If you are interested in Polynesian culture, it is worth visiting one of the other islands, for example Atiu.

If you talk to the people (there are not many), you might find someone like Papa Paiere, who might take you on tour around Atiu, and show you the places, where history happened, both Polynesian and European. Also on Atiu Marshall Humphreys offers a tour to the caves, which includes a short hike through the jungle. In the caves you can take a swim, you will hear stories about the islands and the caves, and get a digestible amount of Polynesian culture. You will see some endemic birds that live in these caves, and which manage to fly in total darkness, just like bats. And, of course, enjoy the beauty of the caves! Money[ edit ] The three unique dollar coins depicted are still in use, but the 5 and 10 cents coins, along with all other cent denominations have been discontinued since 2006. New Zealand coins are used in their place. The figure with the large head and penis on the $1 coin is Tangaroa, a sea god in Māori mythology The Cook Islands use the New Zealand Dollar, but also issue their own banknotes and coinage, including two varieties of highly unusual $3 banknotes and the triangular $2 coins.

Cook Islands money can only be used within the Cook Islands. There are a handful of ATMs in Rarotonga and two on Aitutaki . There are no ATM facilities on any of the other islands. Economy[ edit ] Like many other South Pacific island nations, the Cook Islands' economic development is hindered by the isolation of the country from foreign markets, the limited size of domestic markets, lack of natural resources, periodic devastation from natural disasters, and inadequate infrastructure. Agriculture and tourism provide the economic base with major exports made up of copra and citrus fruit. Manufacturing activities are limited to fruit processing, clothing, and handicrafts. Trade deficits are offset by remittances from emigrants and by foreign aid, overwhelmingly from New Zealand. In the 1980s and 1990s, the country lived beyond its means, maintaining a bloated public service and accumulating a large foreign debt. Subsequent reforms, including the sale of state assets, the strengthening of economic management, the encouragement of tourism, and a debt restructuring agreement, have rekindled some investment and growth. Costs[ edit ] Overall, much cheaper than nearby Tahiti , though anything imported will be expensive.

This especially applies to fuel and milk. There is no fresh milk made on the islands, and the only fresh milk available is air-freighted from New Zealand daily, and costs around $7.00. Locals generally get by with powdered or UHT milk. Calling home can cost a bundle, due to the need of having a large satellite dish and related equipment on each sparsely populated island. Don't expect significant savings by Skype-in or VOIP callback, as the rates using these services tend to be the most expensive anywhere in the world. However, some hotels and resorts have free direct Skype connections (in addition to a regular telephone number) which can be used for reservations. Don't eat pizza in the Cook Islands before you have tried the local stuff (which is admittedly hard to find): ika mata (raw fish) with coconut milk, finely chopped vegetables. It is delicious! umu food (prepared in the traditional earth oven) curried eke (octopus in coconut curry) rukau (Taro leaves, usually cooked with coconut cream) poke (cooked fruit pudding) (banana, pawpaw,...) with coconut milk. Some of these are available every day at the market in Avarua.

Every 2 weeks there is a "Go Local" market where locals sell their products. If you want to cook your own food, note that things which are in Europe cheap, are here usually expensive, and vice versa. Apples and grapes don't grow on the islands, they have to be imported. But "tropic" fruits, like bananas, pawpaw (Papaya), and of course coconuts are everywhere, very delicious (since naturally ripened), and might even be for free (when you rent a cottage, it might have a garden with bananas or lemons - but ask first if you can take some) Meat in turn is expensive, because usually imported. There are chickens and pigs on the islands, but not enough to feed a crowd of every-day-meat-eaters. Fish you get at the harbor, but you have to go there early in the morning. Work[ edit ] Non-residents, even New Zealanders, require work permits. The Cook Islands has a problem with people of working age leaving the islands. Jobs are generally available in the tourism and hospitality sector. There is also a possibility of volunteer work, in education and care. Stay safe[ edit ] No major hazards.

Police are contactable on the emergency number 999. Though the locals often go barefoot (they're experts at it!), it's not recommended beyond sandy beaches due to the sharp coral rocks. Use caution when climbing stairs that connect the lower parts of an island near the sea to the upper part above the cliffs. Some do not have railings on the edge, including platforms. Only the most acrophobic would be uncomfortable with this (they're plenty wide enough and not vertically "open"), but for children, the blind, and someone who's had too much to drink, the risk is extreme. On the platforms, avoid getting too close to the edge -- especially if you need a rest from climbing. Motorcycle accidents cause many injuries and fatalities. Driving after dark has additional hazards due to poor visibility. Stay healthy[ edit ] There is a hospital on Rarotonga , and a smaller one on Aitutaki , and some private medical practices operate in the islands. Medical care is limited on the outer islands. Ambulance emergency is on 998. Try not to eat snapper fish, they may give you ciguatera.

Mosquitoes are mostly a nuisance, though every few years there is a dengue fever outbreak in the wet season. No malaria, or other serious tropical diseases to worry about, (but do take dengue fever seriously during outbreaks). Respect[ edit ] Though the survey form given on arrival (and collected at departure) is optional, the airport staff will be very disappointed if you don't complete it. In case you've misplaced it, additional ones are available at the airport at departure. The Cook Islands inhabitants are not behind the times. They have TV and Internet and they know very well what's going on in the world, so don't patronize them. German tourists on outer islands might be asked about Germany's "dark history", but they know very well that these times have gone a long time ago, and that modern Germany is an industrialized and democratic country. Respect their religious habits; especially that nearly everything is closed on Sundays (with the exception of a few bars and shops). Contrary to popular belief, the Cook Islands own history doesn't include head hunting but there was a large loss of life during the World War I (1914-1918) fighting with the British against Germany and Central Powers.

Contact[ edit ] Not all islands have internet, and some not even mobile phone reception. Check the appropriate island articles. History of the Cook Islands  What is in our past Self-rule and democracy Pre-European COOK Islanders are true Polynesians, the finest seafarers of the vast Pacific, voyagers on frail canoes who felt at home on the ocean and who travelled across its huge wastes in search of new lands and new beginnings.The journeys undertaken by these stone age people in their fragile craft dwarf the voyages of exploration boasted of by the Portuguese, Spanish, British, Dutch, and French. Over-population on many of the tiny islands of Polynesia led to these oceanic migrations. Tradition has it that this was the reason for the expedition of Ru, from Tupua'i in French Polynesia, who landed on Aitutaki and Tangiia, also from French Polynesia, who are believed to have arrived on Rarotonga around 800 AD. Some evidence for this is that the old road of Toi, the Ara metua which runs round most of Rarotonga, is believed to be at least 1200 years old.

Similarly, the northern islands were probably settled by expeditions from Samoa and Tonga. As was common with most patterns of Polynesian migration, expanding population and pressure on resources resulted in the ocean-going canoes being stocked with food and the most venturesome souls being encouraged to set off to look for more living space. This pattern continues today across most Pacific islands except that entry restrictions to other lands are nowadays much more stringent. Cook Islanders are convinced that the great Maori migrations to New Zealand began from Rarotonga possibly as early as the fifth century AD. The most favored location for the starting point was Ngatangiia on the eastern side of Rarotonga where there is a gap in the fringing reef at the widest part of the island's lagoon. Early European contact THE written history of the Cooks began with the sighting of Pukapuka by the Spaniard Alvaro de Mendaña in 1595 followed by a landing on Rakahanga in 1606 by another Spanish explorer, Pedro Quiros. The British arrived off Pukapuka in 1764 and named it Danger Island because they could not land.

This was a very active time in Pacific exploration with the British and French seeking greater prestige as maritime powers. Between 1773 and 1779 Captain James Cook sighted and landed on many of the southern group but never came within eyeshot of Rarotonga . The infamous Captain William Bligh of the Bounty landed on Aitutaki in 1789  he is credited with importing paw paw trees to the Cooks  and in April of that year the mutineers of the Bounty appeared off Rarotonga but, contrary to popular belief, probably did not land. Cook named the islands the Hervey Islands. In fact, he gave this name to the first island he discovered  Manuae. The name "Cook Islands" was given to the group by the Russians in honor of the great English navigator when it appeared for the first time on a Russian naval chart in the early 1800s. The first official European sighting of Rarotonga was from the Endeavour in September/October 1813. The first known landing was by the crew of the Cumberland in 1814.

This was a commercial expedition from Australia and New Zealand and its objective was to find sandalwood. There was none on Rarotonga. Instead, trouble broke out between the sailors and the islanders and many were killed on both sides including the captain's girlfriend, Ann Butchers. She was eaten and her bones are buried in Muri, close to the site of the sailing club. She has the distinction of being the only white woman ever to have been killed and eaten by Pacific islanders! Missionaries THE bluestockings and Rechabites were next to arrive  the missionaries. John Williams of the London Missionary Society landed on Aitutaki in 1821. Williams used Tahitian converts to carry his message to the Cook Islanders and they took to this task with great enthusiasm and were extremely successful. Williams was later killed and eaten on Erromango in the New Hebrides, now known as Vanuatu, but by then his work had been followed up and the gospels were well and truly embedded in the people's psyche. The missionaries were responsible for the discontinuation of cannibalism.

They also tried hard to fence their island converts off from the influences of European and American ships' crews and introduced schools and written language so their charges could read the scriptures. However, they also supported rigid police supervision over the people's morals and activities considered by them to be dubious. There are reports, for example, that in 1900 islands such as Mangaia had more than 150 "police" spying on and questioning a population of fewer than 2000 in the name of "morality". An American voyager to Mangaia in 1863, E.H. Lamont, wrote scathingly of the lifestyle enjoyed by the first permanent white missionary, Mr G. Gill and his wife. He said:"It is evident that missionaries in the South Seas have an opportunity of acquiring wealth, and of having more of the comforts of life around them than their poor struggling brethren at home; but, oh!

how much more delightful to the exalted mind it is to fill a position where they can benefit hundreds of their fellow creatures, where they can promote happiness, virtue, and love amongst a whole community, enlightening their minds and improving their habits, and therefore being looked up to by them with respect and veneration." The "police" were known as "rikos". They were appointed by the missionary and were usually married church members. Their purpose was to discover the delinquencies of their neighbors and they pursued this with great diligence. There are many exhaustive and interesting accounts of the missionaries' labors (see Further reading ). The early missionaries estimated the population of Rarotonga at between 6000 to 7000. The impact of contact with the wider world was devastating. Western diseases spread like bushfires through the islanders and their numbers reduced dramatically during the mid-19th century to probably fewer than 2000. Since then periodic additions of people from outer islands have built Rarotonga's population back to about 10,000.

In 1923 the population was reported by Stewart's Handbook of the Pacific Islands to have been '3287 natives and half-castes living as natives, and 200 whites and half-castes living as whites.' However, even as late as 1923 curious attitudes existed to the extent that Stewart's Handbook blamed the decline on:'There are various causes which have produced this decrease, such as severe epidemics, immorality, intoxicating liquors (prohibition is now in force for all), and the careless use of European clothing.'(!) Further depletions of the outer islands' populations resulted from the raids of Peruvian slavers in the mid-1800s. Most of those kidnapped never returned. The British period FRANCE'S armed takeover of Tahiti and the Society Islands in 1843 caused considerable apprehension among the Cook Islands' ariki (chiefs) and led to requests from them to the British for protection in the event of French attack. This nervousness continued for many years and the call for protection was repeated in 1865 in a petition to Governor Grey of New Zealand.

During the 1870s the Cooks enjoyed prosperity and peace under the authority of Queen Makea, Makea Takau as she was known. A wily negotiator, she secured good prices for exports and cut the debts which had piled up before she became ariki. By 1882 four of the five ariki of Rarotonga were women. Since the sovereign of the British Empire was Queen Victoria, Makea probably found it easier to achieve a paramount status. In 1888 she formally petitioned the British to set up a Protectorate to head off what she believed to be imminent invasion by the French. The British were reluctant administrators and continued pressure was applied to them from New Zealand and from European residents of the islands to pass the Cooks over to New Zealand. The first British Resident was Frederick Moss, a New Zealand politician who tried to help the local chiefs form a central government. In 1898 another New Zealander, Major W.E.

Gudgeon, a veteran of the New Zealand Maori wars, was made British Resident with the aim of paving the way for New Zealand to take over from Britain as part of the expansionist ambitions of New Zealand's Prime Minister, William Seddon. This was not favored by Makea who preferred the idea of being annexed to Britain. One of the results of the British annexation was freedom of religion and a new influx of missionaries from different denominations. The first Roman Catholic church was dedicated in 1896. The New Zealand period AFTER much manoeuvring and politicking, the Cook Islands was formally annexed by New Zealand on October 7 1900 when a deed of cession was signed by five ariki and seven lesser chiefs without any debate or examination of its ramifications or implications. The following year Niue was annexed by New Zealand and included in the Cooks although it had always been associated previously with Samoa and Tonga. In 1903 it was, after protest, placed under separate administration. The Cook Islands remained under New Zealand's benign negligence until 1965.

Desultory and half-hearted attempts were made by New Zealand authorities to upgrade facilities but the majority of New Zealanders were not interested in their colonial possessions and had only the haziest idea of the islands' geographical location. Even today there are many New Zealanders unaware that the Cook Islands was once one of their colonies. In 1946 an important step was taken when a Legislative Council was elected. This was a tentative move towards allowing the islanders to participate in the government of their own country. After World War II a boom in the New Zealand economy called for large numbers of unskilled workers for factories and this need was filled largely by migrants from Western Samoa, the Cook Islands, Niue and Tokelau. New Zealand now has the largest Polynesian population in the world with the addition of thousands of Pacific islanders to its substantial numbers of Maori and awareness of the Pacific islands has increased significantly. In the early 1960s New Zealand became hypersensitive to the decolonisation fashion then sweeping the rest of the world and quickly buckled under pressure to give the Cook Islands self-rule.

Elections were held on April 20 1965 and resulted in the first government of the Cook Islands Party headed by Albert Henry. He was later knighted and, many years later, stripped of his knighthood for illegal electoral rigging. The islands became self-governing in association with New Zealand. This "special relationship" is recognised by New Zealand in the form of annual aid and by the automatic right Cook Islanders have to New Zealand citizenship, a right also enjoyed by the people of Niue and the Tokelau Islands. Self-rule and democracy DEMOCRACY in the Pacific is a delicate flower. Some believe that occidental democratic systems of government sit uneasily with the traditional power structures of Polynesia, Melanesia and Micronesia. As many Western countries are now re-examining their own democracies sometimes with the objective of giving ordinary people a greater say in the workings of government, traditional Polynesian countries often find it uncomfortable having to cope with calls for more accountability from their political leaders. Nearly all Pacific island nations have difficulty with the investigative, questioning attitude of privately-owned news media, particularly the printed media. Western democracies have long been used to this and, indeed, thrive on it.

The role of the fourth estate is recognised and cherished in these societies as being one of the cornerstones of successful democracy. It is very different in many Pacific island nations. Western Samoa, for example, has a recent history of demanding respect from journalists for matai (hereditary chiefs). The government also runs its own newspaper  a hair-raising prospect for Europeans and North Americans. In the Kingdom of Tonga in the late 1990s a journalist and a correspondent to a newspaper's letters column were arrested and convicted for 'angering a public servant', namely, the Minister of Police. Democracy is not a popular word in Tonga and the struggles with the media continue to this day. The western Pacific has a noxious situation in the Solomons where tribal jealousies have resulted in murder and pillage and Papua New Guinea is bedevilled by problems with Bougainville. French Polynesia is still a colony of France, as is New Caledonia. Democracy was stone-cold dead in Fiji after the military coup of Sitiveni Rabuka in the mid-80s and Fiji officially practised a very real form of racial discrimination against its citizens of Indian provenance by denying them the vote.

The only sanctions used against Fiji was to eject them from the Commonwealth until they were reinstated in October 1997 after Rabuka had a change of heart about disenfranchising the Indians. In mid 2000 the whole sorry saga was repeated when a failed businessman turned gunman, George Speight, in collusion with elements of the Fijian Army, kidnapped the Prime Minister and a large number of MPs and overthrew the democratically elected government and Fiji's constitution. The Fijian Army did not remain true to its oaths and by its inaction allowed the coup to succeed. Despite a later change of heart and numerous changes of Government ministers the rivalry between traditional chiefs continues to bedevil Fiji. The latest development is a military dictatorship under Frank Bainimarama which displays all the classic symptoms of a dictatorship with press censorship and persecution of liberals. In contrast, the Cook Islands enjoys universal suffrage, democratic government, several privately-owned newspapers and a vigorous standard of debate. For all practical purposes the Cook Islands is independent. It is governed by a Parliament of 24 elected representatives including one who represents Cook Islanders living in New Zealand and Australia, as well as a House of Ariki or hereditary chiefs who provide consultation and advice.

The Members of Parliament represent districts and entire islands. The system is based on the Westminster model and elections are held every five years. The Head of State is Queen Elizabeth II in her capacity as Queen of New Zealand. Geography of the Cook Islands -- Where We Are Where We Are THE NATION of the Cook Islands comprises 15 islands spread over 850,000 square miles (2.2 million square kilometres) of ocean smack in the middle of the South Pacific between Tonga to the west and the Society Islands to the east. The Cook Islands consists of two main groups, one in the north and one in the south. The southern group is nine "high" islands mainly of volcanic origin although some are virtually atolls. The majority of the population lives in the southern group. The northern group comprises six true atolls. Southern Group Lonely Planet Travel Guides and Travel Information Recent history Polynesian settlement Cook Islanders are Polynesians: people of the poly (many) islands of the South Pacific. They are closely related to the Maoris of New Zealand and Tahiti (Cook Islanders can happily converse with their Maori cousins from overseas, despite differences in vocabulary and dialect).

The Cook Islands were first settled around 1500 years ago by travellers from the Society and Marquesas Islands (now known as French Polynesia). Polynesians had been trekking across much of the South Pacific in huge ocean-going canoes for a couple of millennia before they arrived in the Cooks. The first settlers arrived in Melanesia from Southeast Asia around 2500 BC, before heading on to Fiji , Samoa and Tonga ; French Polynesia was then settled somewhere between 200 BC and AD 200. From there, canoes travelled thousands of kilometres in all directions, reaching Rapa Nui (Easter Island) , Hawaii , South America , and finally Rarotonga and the Cook Islands in around AD 500. ^ Back to top Early cook islands society Although written records only began with the arrival of the Europeans, oral history on Rarotonga traces its ancestry back about 1400 years.

One of the oldest legends tells the tale of To'i, the great chief who built the Ara Metua (the ancient inland road) on Rarotonga somewhere around the 11th century, suggesting that there was already a sizable population living on the island (probably settlers from present-day French Polynesia). Traditional history, however, begins in the 13th century with the arrival of Tangi'ia and Karika, great chiefs from Tahiti and Samoa , who arrived aboard mighty ocean-going vaka (canoes), conquered the resident population, and founded Rarotonga 's six main tribes. Every island in the Cooks was ruled by several ariki (high chiefs). Beneath the ariki were mataiapo (chiefs) and rangatira (sub-chiefs). Land was divided into sections called tapere, each governed by one or more mataiapo, and home to a large extended family who used the land to build houses, farm crops and raise livestock. Each tribe had its own marae (sacred meeting places) and worshipped specific gods.

The koutu was the most important meeting place of all - it was the official seat of a ruling ariki, and the place where the main sacrifices, offerings and annual feasts were made. A chief's authority depended on his mana - a complex term signifying not just physical or hereditary power, but also confidence, victory, prestige, knowledge, spirituality and all-round star quality. Mana ariki was the hereditary power of a chief; mana atua was the divine authority of the priest; and mana tutara was the ruling power of a mataiapo. Mana could be gained as well as lost; great deeds in battle and cowardly acts could all affect a person's mana, and the way he was regarded by the tribe. Ta'unga (literally 'experts') were also important figures. There were ta'unga in many fields, including woodcarving, agriculture, medicine, canoe-making and navigation. The tumu korero (speaker) was responsible for memorising tribal history and genealogy, but the most powerful ta'unga was the high priest, who was seen as the main bridge between the people and the spirits of the gods and ancestors.

The high priest could declare certain acts or places tapu (forbidden), either by order of the gods or the ariki; the chief would decide when tapu had been violated and what the punishment would be (generally it was likely to be fairly unpleasant). Like their modern-day descendants, early Cook Islanders never passed up the opportunity for a party. There were elaborate ceremonies for all kinds of occasions - coming-of-age ceremonies, marriages, deaths, harvest festivals and victories in battle - so the islanders had plenty of opportunity to perfect their song and dance routines. ^ Back to top European explorers The Cook Islands had over a thousand years to develop its distinctive culture and customs before any Europeans finally pitched up. The first Europeans to sight the islands were both Spanish explorers: Alvaro de Mendaña glimpsed Pukapuka in 1595, and in 1606, Pedro Fernández de Quirós stopped at Rakahanga to take on provisions.

In 1773, the English explorer James Cook sighted the islands from his vessel The Resolution (among his crew was a young Cornish sailing master by the name of William Bligh, who went on to lead the infamous mutiny aboard The Bounty in 1789). Between 1773 and 1777, Cook charted much of the group, and following a fine English tradition of attaching dull, irrelevant names to wonderful places, dubbed the Southern Group islands the 'Hervey Islands' in honour of a Lord of the Admiralty. Fifty years later a Russian cartographer (Admiral Johann von Krusenstern) published the Atlas de l'Océan Pacifique, in which he renamed the islands in honour of Captain Cook. ^ Back to top Missionaries Once the explorers had sailed on to new discoveries (or sticky ends, as was the case with Captain Cook, who was stabbed to death in Hawaii in 1779), it was left to the missionaries to establish long-lasting contact with the people of the Cook Islands.

Reverend John Williams of the London Missionary Society (LMS) sailed from Ra'iatea (near present-day Tahiti ) to Aitutaki in 1821. There he left two Tahitian preachers, including a newly converted Society Islander named Papeiha. By the time Williams returned two years later, plucky Papeiha had managed to convert practically the entire island, which spurred Williams on to take the gospel to the rest of the Southern Group. The Cook Islanders probably wished he'd stayed put. For the next 50-odd years, Williams and his Bible-happy followers ruled the islands with an iron rod, imposing a catalogue of draconian doctrines, which even by contemporary standards seemed ridiculously strict, and frequently bordered on the unhinged. Offenders were clobbered with heavy fines, ensuring a steady stream of enforced labour for the missionaries' building projects and a handy source of revenue for the local riko (police) and judges. The influence of the missionaries wasn't all bad, of course. They left the Cook Islanders with some beautiful churches, mostly built from crushed coral and lime, and often intricately decorated with sennit rope and carved wood.

Several of the missionaries (especially William Wyatt Gill, a British missionary who spent much of his life on Mangaia ) wrote detailed accounts of their experiences, providing a fascinating window onto life in the Cook Islands in the 19th century. But the arrival of the missionaries also spelled the end for many traditional customs in the Cook Islands. The missionaries were keen to suppress the islands' pre-Christian past (especially anything relating to sticky subjects such as ritual sacrifice and cannibalism). Carved idols and hallowed artefacts were burned, marae and paepae (meeting grounds) were razed to the ground, and many of the old stories and legends were outlawed or forgotten. ^ Back to top Disease, population decline & slave traders The missionaries brought more than just Christianity and churches to the islands of Polynesia: they inadvertently also brought devastating new diseases, including smallpox and dysentery, the latter of which killed nearly 1000 people in 1830, and caused a drastic population decline across all the islands. To push their cause further, the missionaries cited the mounting death toll as a message from above, and many islanders desperately abandoned their old religion in the hope that they would be spared.

But of course, most weren't - as a matter of fact, the population in Rarotonga fell to about one-third within 30 years, and throughout the 19th century deaths exceeded births in the Cook Islands. It wasn't until the early 20th century that the population on Rarotonga began finally to level out, bolstered by migrants from a number of the outer islands. Disease was not the only thing Cook Islanders had to fear. Brutal Peruvian slave traders, known as blackbirders, took a terrible toll on the Northern Group between 1862 and 1863. At first operating as genuine labour recruiters, the traders quickly turned to subterfuge and outright kidnapping to round up their human cargo. Rakahanga and Pukapuka suffered terribly, but Penrhyn was the blackbirders' main port of call - some estimates reckon that up to three-quarters of the entire population was taken from the island. Few of the 'recruits' ever returned - over 90% died either in transit to Peru or during enforced slave labour.

^ Back to top Protectorate, annexation & independence The late 19th century saw a headlong rush of colonial expansion over much of the South Pacific. Following several requests for British protection from Makea Takau, the ruling ariki of Avarua, Rarotonga was officially made a British overseas protectorate in 1888, mainly in order to avoid a French invasion. The first British Resident (the representative of the British government in a British protectorate) arrived in 1891, but the relationship soon went sour. As a tiny country of little strategic or economic importance, the Cook Islands held little interest for the British, and following a request from the New Zealand Prime Minister, Richard Seddon, the Cook Islands was annexed to New Zealand in 1901. The next 50 years were largely quiet ones for the Cook Islands. During WWII the USA built airstrips on Penrhyn and Aitutaki , but the Cooks remained largely untouched by the wider war, unlike many of its neighbours in the South Pacific.

In the 1960s, as colonies became increasingly unfashionable, New Zealand leapt at the chance to off-load its expensive overseas dependency and in 1965 the Cook Islands became internally self-governing. ^ Back to top Post-independence politics The first leader of the newly independent Cook Islands was Albert Henry, leader of the Cook Islands Party (CIP), who had been a prime mover in the push for self-rule, and was the first in a long line of 'colourful' characters in Cook Islands politics. Sir Albert (he was knighted in 1974, as were many of his successors) did much to unify the country in the initial years of independence, but fell spectacularly from grace during the 1978 elections, when he became embroiled in a massive scandal involving overseas voters (the CIP flew hundreds of supporters back to the Cook Islands in exchange for a vote in the election, bankrolling the tickets with revenue from the sale of postage stamps by the Cook Islands Philatelic Bureau). The election was handed to the opposition party, the Cook Islands Democratic Party, and Sir Albert was stripped of his knighthood.

He died soon after, in 1981; you can see his characteristically ostentatious grave in the Avarua CICC graveyard. Power seesawed over the ensuing years between the two rival parties, and the political landscape of the period is littered with spats, scandals and larger-than-life personalities - notably Dr Tom Davis , author, canoe-builder and zero-gravity medicine specialist with NASA, and Geoffrey Henry (a cousin of Albert Henry), who only lasted a few months in his first period as leader, but returned as an influential prime minister from 1989 to 1999. ^ Back to top Financial woes If there's one thing that the Cook Islands have never quite managed to get to grips with, it's balancing the books. In order to finance domestic growth, successive governments were forced to borrow and borrow…and borrow. A series of bad investments (including the massive Sheraton resort on Rarotonga 's south coast, which ultimately fell through and left the government about NZ$100 million in debt), and a major scandal involving the country's offshore-banking industry, set the stage for financial meltdown.

In the mid-1990s, foreign debt spiralled out of control, and with bankruptcy looming, the government was forced to take radical action. The economic-stabilisation programme, initiated in 1996, eventually resulted in the sacking of about 2000 government employees - 50% of the public service - a huge proportion of the working population in a country of just 20, 000 inhabitants. Masses of redundant workers left the country in search of jobs elsewhere (mostly to New Zealand or Australia ) and never returned, and the country was only saved from the brink thanks to an emergency aid package implemented by the New Zealand government. ^ Back to top Recent history The Cook Islands still has an eye-watering trade deficit, importing far more than it exports, but thanks to the huge expansion in tourism over recent years, foreign investment is currently flowing into the Cook Islands and keeps the financial wolf from the door.

The issue of offshore banking remains a thorny topic; other pressing matters include the ever-accelerating population decline from the outer islands and the gloomy spectre of global warming, which was brought into sharp focus by the unprecedented number of cyclones that swept through the islands in 2005. But it is the implementation of the Unit Titles Act on Rarotonga in 2005 - an act enabling foreigners to lease specific sections of a property in the Cook Islands, rather than the surrounding land - that has really set the cat among the political pigeons. Present prime minister, Jim Marurai, would do well to strap himself in - he looks well and truly set for a bumpy ride. The roles of ariki, mataiapo, rangatira and tumu korero survive to the present day. Arguments over who should be holding which title are still as fierce as ever - just check out the daily newspapers. Cook Islands Fact File THE FLAG The Constitution of the Islands explains the flag: BLUE - is the colour most expressive of our Nation, it is representative of the vast area of the Pacific Ocean in which the islands of the Cook Islands are scattered. Blue also depicts the peaceful nature of the inhabitants of our islands.

THE UNION JACK indicates our historical association with and membership of the British Commonwealth. The 15 WHITE STARS represent the 15 islands of the group. The islands are 10 hours behind GMT. Daylight saving time is not observed - in other words, the clock doesn't go back or forward at any time. This is the current date and time in the Islands. GOVERNMENT AND HEAD OF STATE Parliamentary democracy based on the UK model. Officially the Islands are an independent nation in free association with New Zealand. They gained independence on 4 August, 1965. The free association agreement means: The Cook Islands Government has full executive powers The Cook Islands can make its own laws and New Zealand cannot make laws for the country unless authorised by Government Cook Islanders keep New Zealand citizenship The Monarch is represented by forrmer deputy prime minister, Tom Marsters. His official title is "HM the Queen's Representative in the Cook Islands". The Cook Islands remains part of the Realm of New Zealand and Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II is Head of State of the Cook Islands. LANGUAGE English and Cook Islands Maori are the official languages. About 90% of Islanders can read, write and speak both languages.

In Cook Islands Maori, there are 14 letters: a, e, ng, i, k, m, n, o, p, r, t, u, v and the glottal stop which is written as an inverted apostrophe. On the Northern island of Pukapuka, they have their own language. Only 2,000 people in the world speak Pukapukan. Find out more about the languages of the Islands. DRIVING Foreign driving licences are now accepted in the Islands (previoulsy you had to queue up to get a Cook Islands licence). You are allowed to drive using a full valid licence from your own country (i.e. provisional licences are not acceptable). You can drive only the same class of vehicles as in your home country, and your licence must be in English. If it's in any other language, you will have to provide an authorised translation.

Driving is on the left hand side of the road, as in the UK, Australia and New Zealand MOBILE (CELL) PHONES UPDATED Mobile (cell) phone services have only been available since the end of 2003 and are provided by TCI (Telecom Cook Islands) using the GSM900 network and both 3G (on Rarotonga) and 2.5G Edge technology for data. You can hire a local mobile in Rarotonga from the Telecom office near CITC. If you want to use your own, your service provider will have to have a roaming arrangement with TCI, or you will need a phone which isn't locked to a provider. Service is available on all islands, but is best on Rarotonga and Aitutaki. Find out the latest information about using your mobile in the Islands on the TCI website . Telecom Cook Islands has also created a SIM card package especially for visitors. The Telecom Traveller card costs NZ$49 and lasts 30 days. It's preloaded with 20 minutes of local calling, which can be also be used to pay for international calls, 100 text messages and 100MB of data.

And when you've used that up, the additonal charges are very reasonable compared to the UK and Europe. Again, check out the TCI website page for full details. Author's note: This will only work with phones that are not locked to a home network. Shopping, eating and drinking Everything has tax included in the price Tipping Tipping isn't expected and is contrary to Cook Islands custom. Departure tax: LIke so many countries these days, the Islands charge you a departure tax. This is now "hidden" in your air fare, whereas previously you had to pay it in cash on departure (not the best memory to have as you head for home). The tax applies only to international travel i.e. there is no tax on inter-island flights. PEOPLE POPULATION 14,974 people live in the Islands. According to the latest (2011) census, 73.6% (10,572) live on Rarotonga, and 20.2% in the rest of the Southern Group of islands. Just 6.2% live on the six Northern Group islands where the population is declining most rapidly. Manuae and Takutea are deserted.

ETHNIC DIVERSITY Polynesian, 81%. Mixed Polynesian, 16%. European, 2%. Other, 1%. LIFE EXPECTANCY HEALTHCARE The National Health Service in the Cook Islands is of a good standard relative to the needs of the country. The system is managed by the Ministry of Health and provides a 90-bed central hospital on Rarotonga, seven outer island hospitals, 13 outpatient clinics, 5 healthcare centres and 58 maternity-child clinics. Difficult clinical cases are referred to New Zealand for specialised treatment. There is a comprehensive and compulsory immunisation program for all new-born children. There are no dangerous animals, no poisonous insects and no lethal viruses such as malaria indigenous to the Cook Islands. A FEW WORDS ABOUT DENGUE FEVER This is a mosquito-borne virus indigineous to tropical and sub tropical regions including the Cook Islands, and there is no vaccine against it. It causes flu-like symptoms and sometimes - although very rarely - these can develop into something more serious. The last major outbreak was several years ago. It's mentioned here only because I get occasional emails asking about it.

In my opinion, you really shouldn't worry about it at all, but for definitive information, please have a look at the World Health Organisation factsheet . ESSENTIAL SERVICES ELECTRICITY Diesel generators provide electricity with output at 240 volts-50 hertz cycle which is the same as the UK, Australia and New Zealand. Rarotonga, Aitutaki and Mauke have a continuous supply. On the other islands, it's available for at least 12 hours a day. * The tuitui is the fruit of the candlenut tree which was introduced to the Islands by the early Polynesians. It's nearly as prolific as the coconut palm. The nut is inside a very hard shell. Before candles, Islanders pierced the nuts with wooden skewers and set light to them. They burn very slowly and last for hours. Well, I thought it was more interesting than saying "in a nutshell"! INTERNET ACCESS UPDATED 3G services are available on Rarotonga and 2.5G on every other island. There are also plenty of wifi hotspots on the capital island and quite a few on Aitutaki.

If you're on any of the other islands, you'll find at least one near the local Telecom Cook Islands (TCI) office. Some accommodation providers on Mauke and Mangaia (including Babe's Place and Atiu Villas) also have them. Be warned though...connection speeds will seem slow to European and American visitors. The TCI website has details of all wifi hotspots DUTY FREE ALLOWANCES Those arriving in the country are allowed to bring in two litres (in total) of wine, spirits and liqueur or 4.5 litres of beer. Limits on tobacco are 200 cigarettes, or a total of 250 grams of tobacco products which include cigars. Other goods bought duty free must not exceed a value of NZ$750. OTHER PAGES ON THIS WEBSITE WITH USEFUL INFORMATION FOR VISITORS MONEY New Zealand Dollar. The Cook Islands also has its own distinctive notes and coins which are in circulation alongside the NZ currency, and of equal value. They are not legal tender outside the Islands. The three dollar note (left) is one of the most popular souvenirs. The only ATMs are on Rarotonga and Aitutaki.

But a word of warning...check the machine screen to see how much you might be charged for taking out money. Some of the Banks levy a hefty charge. Credit and some debit cards are widely accepted on the capital island and some places on Aitutaki. Rely on cash on the other islands. FOR LGBT TRAVELLERS Homosexuality is generally accepted, although officially illegal (for men, not women). Sex between men in the Cook Island is punishable by up to seven years in prison and gay marriage was banned in 2000. Although a laissez faire attitude is taken to tourists, public displays of affection would be considered offensive. But all that said, LGBT people can visit the Islands safe in the knowledge that they will not be persecuted or harassed. A group in Rarotonga (Te Taiare Association) also works for and on behalf of LGBT people, and in particualr aka vaine (transgender or transexual women). And a new employment law includes the right not to face discrimination because of sexual orientation.

TAXIS If you're looking to get to and from Rarotonga airport or want an alternative to the bus or self-drive, look out for the green taxis run by members of the Cook Islands Taxi Association. Customers pay NZ$3 a kilometre with a minimum charge of NZ$10 a journey and a maximum of NZ$50 after 16 kilometres. All Association members conform to a code of conduct. A WORD OF WARNING though...airport transfers start at NZ$15and rise to NZ$20 for trips beyond Aroa Beach or Super Brown Supermarket. So, even if you're going a very short distance, you will still pay the minimum fare, and the charge is per person which means you could be paying a lot to go not very far. PETROL AND DIESEL is priced per litre. The cost is similar to the UK. Americans will think it's very expensive. Prices are higher on the outer islands than on Rarotonga. CRIME Just a few years ago, I always told people you were more likely to be hit by a falling coconut than be a victim of crime. That's still absolutely true in the outer islands, but sadly no longer on Rarotonga.

Increasingly, tourists have become targets so the message from the police is not to abandon your common sense. Don't leave valuables lying around if, for example, you're going swimming or snorkelling. The top box or space under the seat on a scooter is not a safe place to store things. And lock away cash, jewellery and other valuables in a hotel safe. All that said, crime is still relatively rare. DRINK DRIVING AND SPEED LIMITS Breathalyser testing was introduced in 2008, and if you are involved in an accident, your alcohol consumption could result in a prison sentence. Speed guns are also in use with on the spot fines. The limit on most of the island is 50kph (31mph), but just 30kph (18 mph) in town (Avarua) and on a stretch of the main road near Muri (between Avana Bridge in Ngatangiia and Parengaru Bridge in Titikaveka Cook Islands - Beautiful Places to VisitBeautiful Places to Visit Cook Islands Credit: Stefan Heinrich The stunning Cook Islands are a tropical paradise located deep in the South Pacific Ocean.

The Cook Islands are self-governing and are in free association with New Zealand which lies to the southwest. Also nearby are French Polynesia (including the islands of Moorea and Bora Bora ) and American Samoa. Within the Cook Islands are 15 major islands divided into two groups: the Northern Cook Islands and the Southern Cook Islands. The Northern Cook Islands consist of six coral atolls. The capital of the Cook Islands is the city of Avarua, on the most populous island Rarotonga. The island of Aitutaki is also a popular destination for tourists. Visitors to the Cook Islands can enjoy swimming in the crystal blue ocean waters, sunbathing on the spectacular white sand beaches , or snorkeling over the fertile reef. The Cook Islands are also popular for weddings and honeymoons. Culture of Cook Islands - history, people, clothing, traditions, women, beliefs, food, customs, family Culture of Cook Islands Orientation Identification. The country is named after Captain James Cook, who landed there in 1773. Location and Geography. The Cook Islands are part of Oceania, a group of islands in the South Pacific roughly halfway between Hawaii and New Zealand, lying between American Samoa and Tahiti.

Their total area is 93 square miles (240 square kilometers). The islands are dispersed over nearly two million square kilometers of ocean. The southern islands, which make up 90 percent of the land area, are hilly terrain of recent volcanic origin; Rarotonga is the most mountainous. The northern islands are coral atolls that have formed over ancient sunken volcanoes and are characterized by outer reefs surrounding a lagoon. There are several species of birds but few native plants and animals; the only indigenous mammal is the Pacific fruit bat. Demography. The population is 20,407 (July 2000 estimate). Among the residents, 81 percent are full-blooded Polynesian, 8 percent are mixed Polynesian and European, 8 percent are mixed Polynesian and non-European, and 2 percent are European. Among the Polynesian people, there are slight variations from island to island; northerners, for example, are more closely related to Samoans than they are to other Cook Islanders. More than 90 percent of the population is concentrated in the southern islands, and over 50 percent on Rarotonga.

The population is declining, as many residents have emigrated to Australia and New Zealand; there are more Cook Islanders in New Zealand than in the islands. Linguistic Affiliation. English is the official language and is taught in school. The common vernacular is Cook Islands Maori, also called Rarotongan, which is similar to the Maori spoken in New Zealand and Tahiti. Dialects vary, and in the north, some islands have their own languages. Symbolism. The flag has a blue background with a Union Jack in the upper lefthand corner. In the center of the flag is a circle of fifteen white five-pointed stars, one for each of the fifteen islands. History and Ethnic Relations Emergence of the Nation. Archeologists trace the settlement of the islands to the fourth century C.E. ; the oral history of Raratonga (the most influential island and the first one to be settled) dates back about 1,400 years. The first European sighting occurred in 1595, when the Spaniard Alvaro de Mendana glimpsed Pukapuka, one of the northern islands.

In 1606, Pedro Fernandez de Quirós landed on Rakahanga in the north. Captain Cook was the first European to explore the land extensively. He arrived in 1773 and returned in 1777. Cook's name was bestowed on the southern islands in an 1835 atlas. At that time, the northern group was known as the Penrhyn Islands or the Manihiki Islands. Christian missionaries had an important large impact on the islands. They decimated the population by introducing diseases such as whooping cough, measles, and smallpox. However, culturally they did not attempt to eradicate all indigenous traditions. The first missionary on the islands was the Reverend John Williams of the London Missionary Society, who landed on Aitutaki in 1821. Another influential figure was Papeiha, a convert from the Society Islands who moved to Rarotonga in 1823. In 1888, the British declared the islands a protectorate to counter the French, who were increasing their colonial holdings in the South Pacific.

In 1900, New Zealand annexed Rarotonga and the other main islands in the southern group; this was Cook Islands extended the next year to include the northern islands. The goal was eventual self-sufficiency for the islands, but despite their agricultural potential, this has not happened. In 1965, the islands gained the right to self-government in internal affairs, but defense and foreign policy remain under the control of New Zealand. Albert Henry of the Cook Islands Party (CIP), a major figure in the independence movement, was elected prime minister in 1968. He was knighted in 1974, but the honor was revoked in 1980 because of claims of corruption. When Henry died in 1981, Dr. Thomas Davis of the Democratic Party became prime minister. Several years of relative political instability followed; power changed hands a few times between 1983 and 1989, when Geoffrey Henry, Henry's nephew, became prime minister. His government did not have widespread popular support, but Geoffrey Henry was knighted in 1992, and the CIP won by a large majority in the 1994 elections.

In the mid 1990s, a controversy known as the "winebox affair" surfaced: the islands were accused by New Zealand of illegal practices in offshore banking and international tax evasion. The affair developed into an international scandal, but the nation's misdeeds were never proved in court. However, economic problems continued to beset the country, including a trade imbalance. In April 1996, Prime Minister Henry announced a 50 percent cut in government departments and privatized a number of government-owned businesses. Many of the recently fired government employees left for New Zealand and Australia. The tourism industry suffered for several years as well. National Identity. Cook Islanders identify first with their individual islands and secondarily with the country as a whole. There is a strong sense of connection with New Zealand; Cook Islanders have citizenship, and many emigrate or have relatives there. Ethnic Relations. There is some resentment toward Europeans because of the islands' colonial heritage, but it is acknowledged that Europeans generate a large proportion of the nation's income in the form of tourism. Urbanism,Architecture, and the Use of Space The capital, Avarua, is the largest city but is more like a small town.

Located on the northern coast of Rarotonga, it has an old harbor and one main road that follows the waterfront. Much of the architecture is colonial, including the Cook Islands Christian Church, which was built in 1855. Traditional houses, called kikau, have panadus-thatched roofs. Few of these structures remain, mostly on the northern islands. In the south, this architecture remains only on the island of Aitutaki in a village called New Jerusalem. On Rarotonga, this style of building is prohibited because it is considered inferior to European architecture and bears a certain stigma. Food and Economy Food in Daily Life. Rori (sea cucumbers) are eaten raw or cooked with butter, garlic, and spices. Fish is eaten both raw and cooked. Raw fish, called ika, is marinated in lemon juice or a mixture of vinegar, oil, and salt and served with chopped onion and coconut cream. Young taro leaves are mashed and mixed with coconut cream, salt, and chopped onion in a dish called rukau. Coconut water is a popular beverage, as are fruit juices and coffee. Beer, called bush beer, is brewed from oranges, bananas, pawpaws, or hops.

Traditional cooking is elaborate and time-consuming. Food is prepared in an umu, an oven dug in the earth and filled with firewood and basalt rocks. A grill of banana wood is placed over the hot stones. Food is wrapped in banana leaves and then in sacks and thrown into the pit, which is covered with soil and allowed to sit for about three hours. Food Customs at Ceremonial Occasions. Special occasions are marked by a feast called an umukai (literally "food from the oven"). Meat is the main dish, supplemented with ika and potato salad. Kava, made from the root of the pepper plant, is a traditional ceremonial drink. It is nonalcoholic but can be consciousness-altering. Christian missionaries virtually eliminated the drink from the islands; today, the word "kava" is used for any alcoholic beverage. Basic Economy. Economic development has been hampered by geographic isolation, a lack of natural resources, and natural disasters. The country has a severe trade imbalance that is partly compensated for by foreign aid from New Zealand and by remittances sent by islanders living abroad. The New Zealand dollar is the currency used. Most economic growth is in tourism, offshore banking, and the mining and fishing industries.

Land Tenure and Property. There are laws prohibiting the buying or selling of land. Ownership is hereditary; land can be leased, but outsiders are not allowed to own land. Land is divided among the descendants after the death of the owner. As a result of this system, a family may possess several plots scattered over an island. Commercial Activities. Commercial activity centers on the tourist industry. The islands (Rarotonga in particular) are dotted with hotels, resorts, and restaurants that cater to tourists. Major Industries. The major industries are fruit processing and tourism. Rarotonga receives nearly fifty thousand tourists a year. Trade. The islands import large quantities of products, including food, textiles, fuels, timber, and capital goods. Forty-nine percent of imports come from New Zealand, and the remainder primarily from Italy and Australia. Exports include agricultural products (copra, papayas, fresh and canned citrus fruit, coffee, and fish), pearls and pearl shells, and clothing. Eighty percent of exports go to New Zealand; the rest are sent to Japan and Hong Kong. Division of Labor. People are relatively free to work in the profession of their choice.

Twenty-nine percent of the labor force works in agriculture, 15 percent in industry, and 56 percent in services. Social Stratification Classes and Castes. Class traditionally was determined by a hereditary system of titles. Today, status is determined more by education and profession, and there is a good deal of social mobility. Symbols of Social Stratification. The majority of residents today wear Western-style clothing. Dress is often casual, with the exception of churchgoing on Sundays. The traditional outfit of short, fringed grass skirts, headbands, and collars is worn mainly for dances and other celebrations. Both men and women wear flowers in their hair. Traditionally, fat is a symbol of wealth and beauty, and at puberty boys and girls undergo ritual seclusion and feedings to gain weight. However, this is changing as Western standards of beauty have begun to exert more influence. Political Life Government. The chiefs of state are the British monarch and the New Zealand high commissioner. The head of the government is the prime minister, who appoints a cabinet. The unicameral parliament has twenty-five members elected by popular vote for five-year terms. Twenty-four members represent different districts, and one represents islanders living in New Zealand.

The prime minister is not chosen by election; this position goes to the leader of the party that wins the most seats in the parliament. The indigenous ruling body is the House of Arikis (chiefs). The chiefs advise the government on matters relating to tradition but do not have legislative power. Leadership and Political Officials. The Cook Islands Party was the party largely responsible for independence. The two other parties are the Democratic Alliance Party and the New Alliance Party. Social Problems and Control. Violent crime is rare, but petty theft is becoming more common, particularly on Rarotonga. The legal system is based on New Zealand law and English common law. Military Activity. The Cook Islands do not have a military. They depend on New Zealand, which defends the islands at their request, in consultation with the islands' government. Thatched cottages and plants line a street in New Jerusalem, Aitutaki. These are some of the last remaining examples of traditional houses, called Kikau. Nongovernmental Organizations and Other Associations The country participates in several international organizations, including UNESCO and the World Health Organization. Gender Roles and Statuses Division of Labor by Gender. Women are responsible for domestic work; men do all the fishing and heavy labor such as construction.

Women often work outside the home. Until recently, men dominated most positions in management and government, but this situation is changing. The Relative Status of Women and Men. Women are treated with respect, primarily in relation to their roles as wives and mothers. Women are in charge of family finances and oversee the land, determining which crops to plant. At the level of the church and village, women are the primary administrators. Domestic violence against women is punished strictly. Marriage,Family, and Kinship Marriage. Polygamy has been eliminated because of the influence of the Christian churches. There is a good deal of freedom in choosing one's spouse, and it is not uncommon for couples to have a trial marriage before wedding. Divorce and separation are fairly common, as are common-law marriages. Domestic Unit. The extended family is highly valued, and it is common for various relatives and generations to live under the same roof. A newly married couple usually lives with one set of in-laws until they have the means to establish a residence of their own. Inheritance. Inheritance is not gender-specific. When a mother dies, land passes jointly to all her children. Kin Groups.

Society is divided into family clans, each of which is linked to the ancient system of chiefs. Rarotonga has six clans ( ariki ), which were established centuries ago, when the Maoris first settled on the island and divided the land. Socialization Infant Care. Infants are given a lot of attention and are treated with indulgence. A village store in Arutanga. Stores often cater to tourists, who make up a large portion of the Cook Island economy. Child Rearing and Education. The teaching of Christian values and respect for elders is an important aspect of child rearing. Education is free and compulsory from age five through age fifteen. There are twenty-eight primary schools and seven secondary schools. Higher Education. There are several institutions of post secondary education. There are training programs for nurses and teachers as well as an apprenticeship program for various trades and a Cook Island Christian Church theological college that trains ministers. There is a branch of the Fiji-based University of the South Pacific in Avarua. Many people send their children to New Zealand, Australia, or other South Pacific countries to receive higher education. The government provides scholarships to students for studying abroad. Etiquette Cook Islanders are known for their hospitable and generous, if somewhat reserved, nature.

When invited to someone's home, it is customary to bring a small gift for the host. Upon returning from a voyage, travelers are greeted with a garland of flowers placed around their necks; they are seen off the same way before departures. Religion Religious Beliefs. Virtually all the people are Christian; 70 percent belong to the Protestant Cook Islands Christian Church (CICC) and 30 percent are Roman Catholic, Seventh Day Adventist, Mormon, or members of other denominations. Little is known about the indigenous religion, which had a complex system of seventy-one gods, each of which was responsible for a specific aspect of life; this religion also believed in twelve levels of heaven, some of which were located above the earth, and some below. Religious Practitioners. Ministers are the central figures in the CICC. They are held in high esteem and have a great responsibility to their congregations. People express approval or dissatisfaction with a minister through the size of their donations to the local church. Rituals and Holy Places. There are churches throughout the islands, and many residents attend regularly, dressing up in white straw hats. Sermons are in Maori.

(The Bible was translated into Maori in the 1880s.) Singing is an integral part of services, and hymns often incorporate traditional Polynesian harmonies. A woman sits on the floor making a colorful quilt in the city of Aitutaki. The site of worship in traditional religious practice is called a marae . Despite the fact that the indigenous religion has been supplanted by Christianity, marae still hold significance for many people, particularly on Rarotonga. Death and the Afterlife. Burial vaults are located in the front yards of houses. Usually, the woman who built the house is buried there. Women's coffins are sealed in these concrete structures because it is considered disrespectful to cover their bodies in dirt after death. Graves are only cared for by friends or family of the deceased. When no survivors remain, the tops of the burial vaults are removed and the land is plowed over. Medicine and Health Care Health care is provided by the government, but the system is relatively primitive. Each island has a hospital, but some of the more remote hospitals are very poorly equipped. People generally are sent to the hospital in Rarotonga or New Zealand for serious illnesses.

Some people rely on traditional medicines and faith healers in addition to the Western medicine that is available. Secular Celebrations New Year's Day is celebrated 1 January. Anzac Day on 25 April commemorates Cook Islanders killed in World War II. The queen's birthday is celebrated on the first Monday in June. Constitution Day is celebrated on 4 August; the ten-day festivities include sports and dancing. Flag Raising Day occurs on 27 October. Tiare (Floral) Festival Week is held in the last week in November; it includes parades and other festivities. The Arts and Humanities Support for the Arts. Avarua is home to the National Library, which has a collection of rare books and literature about the Pacific. The National Museum displays traditional arts and handicrafts. The capital has the Sir Geoffrey Henry National Cultural Centre, which was built in 1992. Literature. The literary tradition is primarily one of legends and stories passed orally from one generation to the next. Many of these stories have been written down and published.

One of the best known writers in the twentieth century was Manihikan Kauraka Kauraka, who published both renderings of traditional tales and original poetry, stories, and nonfiction writings. Graphic Arts. The islands are known for a textile art called tivaevae, practiced by women, which combines appliqué and embroidery. Tivaevae decorates bedspreads and cushion covers. Flower art is popular in the form of ei (necklaces) and ei katu (tiaras). Jewelry made from black pearls is another specialty. Other traditional arts and crafts include woven pandanus mats, baskets, purses, and fans. Performance Arts. The islands are known for music (primarily fast, complex drumming) and dance, in particular the fast, hip-swinging tamure, which is performed in traditional costumes consisting of grass skirts and headbands. Many of these performances are held for tourists on so-called Island Nights at hotels. They also are staged during the annual Dance Week every April and during Constitution Week in the summer. The State of the Physical and Social Sciences There are few facilities for the study of the physical and social sciences. Bibliography Baltaxe, James Bernard.

Transformation of the Rangatira: A case of the European Reinterpretation of Rarotongan Social Organization, 1975. Beaglehole, Ernest. Social Change in the South Pacific: Rarotonga and Aitutaki, 1957. Buck, Peter Henry. Arts and Crafts of the Cook Islands, 1944. ——. Material Culture of the Cook Islands (Aitutaki), 1976. Campbell, Andrew Teariki, ed. Impressions of Tongareva (Penrhyn Island) 1816–1901, 1984. ——. Social Relations in Ancient Tongareva, 1985. Crocombe, R. G. Land Tenure in the Cook Islands, 1964. Feizkhah, Elizabeth. "Large Load, Heavy Soil, High Spin." Time South Pacific, February 28, 2000. Gilson, Richard. Cook Islands 1820–1950, 1980. Harmon, Jeff B.

"Ignoring the Missionary Position." New Statesman, August 21, 1998. Kauraka, Kauraka. Legends from the Atolls, 1984. Web Sites

Question: Rarotonga is the most populous island of which group of islands?
Answer: Cook Islands