Surfing Terms & Definitions | Surf Lingo At Surf Science Z A-frame A description for a wave that is peak-shaped. This highest point of the crest is in the middle with left and right shoulders resembling the shape of a triangle or the letter "A". Accelerate To gain speed off a bottom turn or trimming on the face of the wave. Accessory Man A surfer who has every surf gear imaginable and uses it all the time. Acetone Chemical solvent used to clean polyester resin from tools. This chemical is toxic and flammable. Aching How a surfer feels after an intense session or from being pummeled. Acid Drop When a surfer takes off on a wave and the bottom of the wave hollows and falls out. This leaves the surfer free falling down the face of the wave. Aerial A surfing maneuver in which a surfer launches into the air off the top of the wave getting air born. A number of tricks and moves can be done in the air such as grabbing the rail of the surfboard or rotating 180 degrees. Aerial Barrel Roll An aerial maneuver with a 360-degree twist added in the air. Aerial with Re-entry An aerial maneuver with a landing on the same wave.

Aggro A feeling of annoyance of frustration or a reference to someone who is annoyed, frustrated or angry. This is usually caused from a breach in surfing etiquette. It can also be caused from a lack of surfing and moodiness. Ahu A place close to shore where a broken wave peaks and breaks again. Air Freak A surfer who is awesome at aerial maneuvers Air to Fakie When a surfer catches air and lands with the tail of the board pointing down and sliding backwards before spinning 180 to finish off. Airbrush An art tool that sprays paint using an air compressor. Often, an airbrush is used to decorate surfboards. Alaia A flat wooden surfboard made of wood with no fins or rocker. Originated in Hawaii with the birth of surfing. Aloha Hawaiian word used for greeting, good byes, affection, love, peace, compassion and mercy. Amped Feeling stoked or charged up. Amplitude The vertical distance from still water level to wave peak. This is usually half the height of the wave. Ancillary Stoke Condition of onlookers when watching a surfer pull off a radical maneuver. Angle off Descending on the face of the wave towards the left of the right.

Also called Angling. Angling Refers to a surfer paddling or taking off on a wave at an angle in order to ride across the face of a wave rather than riding it straight towards the beach. This is often used to prevent the surfboard from pearling and/or to make the section of the wave. Also called angle off or angled. Ankle Slop Small waves that are too small to surf. Ankle Straps Leash used to secure the surfboard to a surfer's ankle. Artificial Reef A man made structure submerged underwater for one or more of the following reasons. Creating quality surf. Aid in the development of an ocean ecology for marine life. Preventing beach erosion by lessening the impact of swells pushing sand away from shore. ASP Association of Surfing Professionals. This is the governing organization of professional surfing. ASP link Asymmetrical Zippers Common in new wetsuit zippers. Designed with staggered teeth to keep less water from penetrating the wetsuit. Atoll A coral island consisting of a belt of coral reef. Partly submerged surrounding a central lagoon or depression. Average Wave Period (AVP) The average time between successive wave crest observed during a given time period given in seconds.

Axe/axed A heavy wipeout caused by a big impact of the wave on a surfer. This is also called drilled or pummeled. Backdoor The right hand wave produced by the Pipeline. The phrase "backdoor" is also used to describe taking off deep on a wave and shooting through the barrel and out the other side. Backside Surfing with your back facing the wave. A goofy footer going right and a regular footer going left. Backwash This occurs when a wave traveling toward the beach meets the water rushing back out to sea after going up a steep slope on the beach. Balsa This surf industry used this light wood to manufacture most surfboards in the 1940s and 50s. While Polyurethane (PU) foam replaced balsa for board shaping by the 1960s, modern center stringers and parabolic rails are typically made of this wood that grows only in Ecuador. Barney Lame surfer Barrel The pocket inside a wave between the lip and the face, created when the lip of a crashing wave projects out toward the beach. Bat-Tail A surfboard tail design that resembles the wing of a bat.

Beach Break A wave breaking over sand bars scattered along the ocean floor. Blank The unshaped block of foam a shaper receives before starting a new board. Blind stitched Stitching process for higher end wet suits. The seams are glued together, then stitched halfway through the material so it's not seen on the other side. Blown out Choppy, poor surf conditions caused by on shore wind. Bodyboarder Someone who lays his belly on a bodyboard when riding the wave. Bomb Rare large wave coming through that is much bigger than what is typical for that session. Bonzai Pipeline The crown jewel of the seven mile miracle on the North Shore of Oahu. This heaving left hand wave has made careers and ended lives. Bonzer Board shape created by Duncan and Malcolm Campbell in 1971. The board has three or five fins and has double concave channels. These channels help to direct water through the back of the board, increasing top end speed. It is the precursor to the modern single to double concave bottom. Bottom Turn The turn performed at the bottom of a wave after dropping down the wave face. It is typically the first maneuver performed on a wave.

A bottom turn builds speed for the surfer and sets up the rest of the ride. Break Line The line in the water where waves begin to break. As a standard rule, waves break when they reach a depth of 1.3 times the height of the wave face. Breaking The act of the top of a wave crumbling or pitching over itself. This happens when energy transfers to the top of a wave after hitting more shallow water. Bro A measure of how well a surfboard floats in the water Catalyst Added to resin to make harder Cavitation The rapid formation and collapse of vapor pockets in a flowing liquid in regions of very low pressure; occurs on one side of a fin disrupting control Orbelian, George. "Essential Surfing." Orbelian Arts, 1987, pp. 239 Channel A fast moving current moving out to sea formed by a trench between sand banks or reefs. Channel A fast moving current moving out to sea formed by a trench between sand banks or reefs. Chine rails Rails that are faceted or beveled rather than rounded. Orbelian, George. "Essential Surfing." Orbelian Arts, 1987, pp.

239 Chop Bumps and ridges on the face of waves. Usually caused by windy conditions. Classic Description of something traditional Cleanup set Group of waves that break further out than normal. They are usually bigger and catch people by surprise Close out A wave that break along the face all at once and does not peal. This is not ideal and suitable for surfing. Concave A design feature of a surfboard. It is the bottom contour of a surfboard that is concaved. This is typically used for channeling water through the board for the purpose of drive and speed. Consistent Waves that break regularly and frequently. Cord The leash that is tethered from a surfer's ankle to the surfboard. Crest The top of the wave Cross stepping A maneuver typically done on a longboard in which the surfer laterally steps forward or back. Curl Area of the wave where the lip is falling and the wave is breaking. Current A parallel flow of water along the sea shore. Custom board A customize surfboard shaped to fit an individual surfer's needs, ability and style. Cut back A maneuver when a surfer is on the shoulder of the wave and turns back towards the breaking part of the wave.

Cutting off Also known as snaking. Its when a surfer uses poor etiquette and catches a wave in front of another surfer who is closer to the breaking part of the wave or who has the right of way. Dawn Patrol Early morning surf session, taking place near sun rise to avoid crowds and windy conditions. Deck Top surface of the surfboard. Deepwater Breaks Large, powerful waves caused when swells transition from deep water to shallow water over a short distance. Delaminate Delamination occurs when a board's fiberglass separates from the foam. They most common cause is water leaking into the board through a ding. It can also happen due to extreme heat, such as leaving your board in a hot car. The foam will actually shrink away from the fiberglass. Fix delaminations as soon as possible or risk your board losing its structural integrity. Ding Damage to your surfboard created from a collision with another board or a different hard object. Dings will allow water to leak into th eboard and reach the foam. Dings should be dried out and repaired immediately to loss of strength in your board. Double Blindstitched A wetsuit's seams that are glued, blind stitched, turned inside out and then blind stitched again.

Down Rail A rail design whereby the rail slopes downward from the desk, its apex below the middle of the rail. Down the Line The direction a surfer moves on a wave from the point at which he originally dropped down the wave's face. Drag The term used to describe the water resistance created when the board travels across the wave. A board's design features will either promote or reduce drag. Drive This term refers to the acceleration generated during a turn. Applying water pressure against a board's fins or rails will produce a rebound effect. A good comparison is a competitive swimmer approaching a pool's wall. He wants to change direction so he pushes off the wall with his feet and accelerates in the process. The same principle is in effect when a surfer engages his fins to change direction. Drop-in The act of dropping down the wave face after paddling for a wave. "Dropping in" on someone refers to the act of dropping down in front of a surfer already riding the wave. Duck Dive This is the act of diving under an oncoming wave. Performed by pushing the front of the board deep below the surface using the arms and then pushing the back of the board down with either the knee or foot.

Egg Rail A variety of soft, round rail that is more drawn out, like an egg. Egg Shape This describes a type of fun board you might see. The name says it all and explains the shape. Entry A term used to describe the area of a surfboard where the water the board's rocker first come into contact with one another. Epoxy A type of resin used an alternative to the standard polyester resin. The use of epoxy resins results in strong boards that are more durable than standard boards. Expanded Polystyrene (EPS) A lighter alternative to PU foam. They are more difficult to shape, needing two to four times the labor to shape. This material is commonly used in epoxy resin boards such as those produced by Surftech and Firewire. It is more environmentally friendly than PU foam and is recyclable. EPS blanks are typically molded by machines. Exposure This term is used to describe the direction a particular break is facing and from which swells it will pick up energy. Eye The center of a storm that is often relatively calm. Face The unbroken portion of a wave where most surfers ride the wave.

Face Height Used as a form of wave height by the front of the wave, this measures the distance from the top of the crest to the bottom of the trough. Fast This term describes a wave that breaks down the line very quickly, causing a surfer to either surf fast enough to ride the face or get caught by the breaking wave. Fiberglass Glass fibers woven into a cloth. This has been the most common material used to strengthen surfboards over the last forty years. The fiberglass cloth is placed over a newly shaped board before the glasser applies the resin. Fin The main turning apparatus on a surfboard. It acts as the rudder in the water, using water pressure to turn. Fin system This refers to the many different ways removable fins are organized on a board. Firing Fun, good sized surf. Fish A surfboard style and shape that grew popular in the 1980s. Generally speaking, a true fish shape has a a flat rocker, wide nose, straighter outline, a swallow tail, and a twin fin setup. Flat The term used to imply there is no surf. Foam The material used to shape a surfboard, usually made of polyethylene. This term is also used to describe a breaking wave's whitewater.

Foil The change in thickness from the nose of a surfboard to its tail. Forehand Surfing while facing the wave with your back facing the beach. Frontside see Forehand Funboard A funboard describes a board's shape when it falls between a longboard and a shortboard. It provides the surfer with good paddling ability while ridding the board of some extra foam, giving it more maneuverability. Glassing Laminating a shaped blank with fiberglass cloth and resin. Glassy When the waves are smooth with no bumps as a result of no winds. Glide Refers to how easy the board is to paddle and catch waves with. Often is used to describe how a longboard moves through the water. Gloss Final coat of resin that is buffed out for aesthetics. Gnarly Term used to describe a wave that is tough, big, heavy, or difficult to ride. Goofy foot The stance on a surfboard in which your right foot is forward and your left foot is back. Grit Cloth Used for blending rail contours when shaping foam. Groms A surfboard that is designed for large waves. Hammered Term used to describe a surfer falling off and getting pounded by a wave.

Hanging five A longboarding maneuver where a surfer places one foot or five toes on the very nose of the board while surfing a wave. Hanging ten A longboarding maneuver where a surfer places two feet or ten toes on the very nose of the board while surfing a wave. Haoles A Hawaiian term for "white" people or non locals. Hard rail A rail with a more defined edge and sharper corner. He'enalu A Hawaiian term that means "wave sliding". Header Term used to describe a fall off a surfboard. Headstand Advanced longboarding maneuver where a surfer is upside down on his/her head on a surfboard while surfing a wave. Helicopter Advanced longboarding maneuver which a surfer spins the board around from the nose. Hellmen Surfer who rides big waves. Hollow A term to describe a steep and sometimes barreling wave. A wave that is not sloppy or mushy. Hot coat Also known as the sand coat. Resin layer which is sanded to refine contours of the board. Hybrid A surfboard design that combines aspects of at least two different types of board. For example, a surfboard with shortboard and fish characteristics. Or a longboard combined with shortboard characteristics.

Impact Zone An area where waves are breaking the hardest and most consistent. Often when a surfer gets stuck in the impact zone, it is difficult to paddle out past the breaks. Inside Area between the impact zone and the shore. Closer to shore than the outside break. Interference During competition where one surfer disrupts the ride of another surfer who has the right-of-way. Interval training A training method or workout which involved periods of high intensity followed by rest or low intensity. Jacking A wave condition when a waves increases height suddenly usually as a result of a wave passes an extreme variation in depth of the ocean floor. This usually causes a very steep hollow wave and intense wave. Also referred to as "jacking up". Jersey The inner material that holds the neoprene together. It is made from any combination of polypropylene, nylon or titanium. Jetty A structure consisting of rocks or concrete bordering both sides of an inlet and often times river mouth. Juice Refers to the power of the wave. Kevlar A type of fiber cloth which is very strong. Its occasionally used by surfboard manufacturers but generally avoided due to its high cost.

Kicking out Turning out of the wave at the end of the ride before the wave closes out or to get out of the wave early. Kneeboard A surfboard designed exclusively for riding in a drop knee stance. Kneeboarding A type of surfing where a surfer catches a wave and gets into a drop knee stance as opposed to standing up. Kook A surfer who is disrespectful to other surfers or inexperienced. Laminating A coat of resin applied to a shaped surfboard blank. Laminatingresin is used to soak the fiberglass cloth and adhere it to the blank and harden for structural strength. Leash A cord used to tether the surfboard to the ankle of the surfer. Lefts Waves that break from the peak to the surfer's left. Lift The directional force created when water flow is faster across one side of an asymmetrical foil than another. Lines Used to describe the swell as it approaches the shore. Lineup The area outside of where the wave breaks where surfers sit and wait to catch waves. Lip The tip of the wave's peak that is just about to break down the face of the wave. Localism Hostility from locals towards non-local surfers.

Locals Surfers who live near and surf a break on a regular basis. Longboard A type of surfboard that is usually at least 8 feet in length and has a round nose. Longshore current Water movement in the surf zone that runs parallel to the shore as a result of waves breaking at an angle to the shoreline. Lull A period of time in between sets in which no waves or small waves are breaking. Malibu Surfboard A type of longboard with originated and popular in the 60's. The riding style of this longboard is meant for trimming, walking the board and noseriding. Maxed out When waves are too large to break without closing out. Mini-Malibu Also called Mini-Mal for short. A type of surfboard with characteristics similar to a longboard but shorter. Mush When waves are small, crumbly, week and blown out. North Swell A North to South moving swell. Nose The front section of a surfboard. Nose guard A rubber or silicon tip that is gluedto the nose of a surfboard. The purpose is to blunt the destructive effect of its collision with the human body or another board.

Nose riding A longboarding maneuver where a surfer stands on the front section of the board. Nose width A measurement from rail to rail near the front section of the board. Off the lip A maneuver in which the board is turned at the lip or the top peak of the wave. Offshore Wind that is blowing from the shore towards the ocean. Light offshore wind conditions is ideal for surfing because it helps the wave face hold up longer. Onshore Wind that is blowing from the ocean towards the shore. Onshore wind conditions is not desirable because it will usually flatten the waves and cause blown out conditions. Outline The outer shape of a surfboard. Outside The area between the open ocean and where the wave breaks. This is the area where set waves break. Also used to describe the furthest break from shore. Outside break Area where the waves break that is furthest from the shore. Waves tend the be larger in size on the outside. Over the falls When a surfer goes over the falling lip and plunges down the wave face. Overgunned When a board is too big or too small for the wave conditions. Overhead Description of the wave height that are greater than the height of an average surfer.

Also referred to as double overhead, triple overhead and "feets" overhead. Peak The highest point of a breaking wave, with both left and right shoulders to surf. The word also refers to the time of a swell’s full strength. Peak Periods The swell period showing the most energy during a swell. Peaky Surf conditions in which there are a lot of peaks. Pearl When a surfer buries the nose of his surfboard into the water when dropping into a wave. The result is a good old fashioned, nasal-passage-cleaning faceplant. Peeling A description of a wave that is breaking perfectly down the line. Pintail This is the tail of choice for most big wave guns. The rails of the surfboard extend toward a very narrow point at the tail. Pit Usually refers to the barrel of a large and powerful wave. Polyester The plastic resin most commonly used to strengthen Pop-out The term used to describe the manufacturing process of surfboards by machine, with no human shaping of the blank taking place. Pumping When the surf conditions look fun with good size. This term also describes the act surfing up a wave face and back down to gain speed.

Quiver A surfer’s collection of surfboards ranging in size, shape, and style. Racy A fast, but makeable wave. Rail The edges of a surfboard that extend from the nose down to the tail. The rail begins where the deck transitions to the bottom of the surfboard. Rail Grab The act of grabbing a surfboard’s rail with the back hand while dropping into a wave backside. Reef break A wave that breaks over a rock or reef instead of sand. While this wave is potentially more dangerous for surfers, it can also result in spectacular barrels and perfect wave shape. Regular Foot A surfer riding a surfboard with his left foot forward. Release The necessary result of a well shaped surfboard, release allows water to move away from a surfboard’s surfaces as it moves through the wave. Roundhouse A long drawn out turn made on the shoulder of a wave to deliver the surfer back to the waves power source. Santa Ana Winds These are warm winds blowing off shore in Southern California between September and February. Scattered Peaks When two swells (combo swell) from different directions hit the same break, resulting in waves separating into different peaks and lines. Seams The connection between panels on a wetsuit.

Section A part of a breaking wave that breaks ahead of the peak. Set A series of waves Shape The term used to describe wave quality. We all want to ride waves with perfect shape, meaning no sections. Shaper A person who shapes a foam blank into a rideable surfboard by shaving the foam down into the desired shape. Shoaling Energy from a deep water swell getting pushed up to the water’s surface after its lower reaches drag across the ocean floor. This causes the waves to increase in height. Shorebreak Waves breaking right on the beach. These waves are typically steep, powerful, and unsurfable. Short Period Swell According to Surfline.com, this term defines swells with swell periods under 15 seconds between successive waves. Shortboard A 5 to 7 foot performance board designed for speed and radical maneuvers. Shoulder Open, unbroken portion of a wave extending from the peak. Shoulders are easier to make for surfers. Shredding Performing high-grade maneuvers on a wave. Often associated with aggressive, powerful, vertical surfing. Snake The act of dropping in on someone’s wave. Snaking someone in the water will result in bad juju.

Sneak Set A surprise set that is much larger than the average sets during the session. Spin Out When too much force is applied to a surfboard’s fins the board will lose its leverage and push through the turn. This will cause the board to slide out from underneath the surfer’s feet. Stoked A surfer’s feelings of excitement. Stringer A strip of wood glued in the middle of a surfboard blank to add strength and flex memory to the final product. Surfer’s Ear A condition of the ear canal, whereby bone grows toward the center of the canal. This will block the passage to varying degrees and, ultimately, cause hearing problems. Surftech The company making epoxy molded surfboards. Swallow Tail A tail shape with a vee cutout, resulting in a wider tail with good drive and control. Swell Period Measurement used to identify the peak period of the swell energy in seconds. Buoys are often used to measure the time between successive wave crests.

Tail Located at the bottom one-third of a surfboard; wide range of tail design types Take-off Timing your movement perfectly to successfully catch a wave by padding for a wave and jumping onto your feet Taped seams Flexible tape used on overlapped sections of your surfboard to avoid water damage Thruster A surfboard designed with a thin tail with three fins; third fin located centrally behind the first two fins Trim Positioning your surfboard so it can travel as fast as possible across a wave, without turning, to maintain position on the face of the wave Trough Bottom of the wave as it begins to collapse Tsunami A series of gigantic waves created after undersea disturbances such as earthquakes Tube Steep tunnel inside a collapsed wave or another name for barrel Turtle Position yourself under your surfboard while padding in breaking waves to decrease resistance; also notice as duckdiving Twinfin A steep face of a wave without a section of the wave to ride on Wave The reason surfers exist Wave height The distance from trough to crest; the difference between the lowest and highest part of wave Wave hog Someone who will not share a wave or people that should stay away from surfing Wave length How apart one wave is from the next Wave period The time taken between the passing of one wave and the next Wax Rub

bed on the deck of a surfboard for traction Wetsuit A synthetic rubber suit covering most of your body, tightly fit to keep you warm; full suits are used in winter and spring suits are shorter Whitewater When the wind is strong enough to force wave to collapse Wipeout The Glossary of Surfing Terms The Glossary of Surfing Terms Surfing is a rich sport when it comes to terms, names, expressions and technical words.

The surfer's lingo could fit a dictionary. The surfing glossary of terms used in the waves is useful to all levels of surfers.

Discover the vocabulary of surfing and learn new words: Aerial - a surf maneuver where a surfer hits the crest of the wave and flies through the air A-frame - a wave peak breaking left and right with perfect shape Aggro - an Australian expression for aggressive surfing or aggressive surfer Alaia - a surfboard made of wood originally used by Hawaiians to surf breaking waves, in the late 19th century Aloha - a Hawaiian greeting that means "hello" or "goodbye" Backdoor - when a surfer pulls into a hollow section from behind the section Backside - when a surfer rides with his back to the wave Backwash - when a wave sweeps up the beach and returns to the ocean, sometimes colliding with incoming waves Bail - an evasive maneuver activated when a surfer is caught inside or when he is about to wipeout Bailing - letting go of your surfboard Barrel - the tube, the curl of the wave Bathymetry - the measurement of depths of water in oceans and seas Beach break - waves that break over sandbars Blank - a rough block of polyurethane foam that will be transformed into a surfboard Bodysurf - the sport of riding waves the body and swim fins Bogging - what happens when a sur

fer's weight is too far back, and the surfboard nose lifts up Bombora - a deep water, offshore reef break Bottom turn - when a surfer turns at the bottom of the wave to start trimming the optimal surf line Bro - brother, mate Carve - a sharp turn on the wave face Chandelier - water falling at a barrel opening threatening the tube rider Chop - bumpy ocean and wave conditions that are rough due to strong winds and/or currents Closeout - when a wave breaks all at once, with no shape or shoulder Corduroy - the vision of a series of swells marching in from the horizon Crest - the top and highest point of a wave Cutback - a turn performed on the flats or in the shoulder of the wave, in order to get the surfer back on the surf line Deck - the top of the surfboard Ding - a crack, hole or fracture in a surfboard Drop in - to get in the right of way of a surfer who is already riding a wave Drop - the moment after paddling in and standing up, just before the first turn of the wave face Duck Diving - the technique of pushing the surfboard under and through a breaking wave Dude - a cool person or surfer Epoxy - a type

 of plastic resin used to produce surfboards Fetch - the uninterrupted distance over which the wind blows without a significant change of direction Fin - a hydrofoil mounted at the tail of a surfboard to improve directional stability and control through foot-steering Flat - with no waves, or with no surf Flats - the horizontal part of a breaking wave, also known as the shoulder Floater - a surf maneuver where the rider goes over the top of a crumbling section and ends up in the flats Foam board - a surfboard for beginners, with an exterior shell made of soft foam Foam - whitewater Frontside - when a surfer rides facing the wave Froth - stoked, amped or excited Glassy - a maritime condition when there is no wind to ripple the wave face Gnarly - awesome Goofy foot - a surfer who rides waves with his right leg forward Grommet - a young surfer Groundswell - a swell that traveled thousands of miles through the ocean, with a period of 15 seconds or more Gun - a big surfboard for riding big waves Hang loose - a Hawaiian expression for a relaxing, easygoing and carefree attitude Hang Ten - to surf a wave with all ten toes on the nose of the surfboard Haole - an

 Hawaiian word for "foreigner" Hawaiian scale - an underestimated way of measuring waves by the Hawaiians Heat - a competitive period held in surf contests Inside - the area where waves end, as opposed to outside Kahuna - wizard, magician Kick out - a surf maneuver done at the end of a wave ride to exit it Knot - a unit of speed equal to one nautical mile per hour Kook - a beginner surfer, an inexperienced surfer or a bad surfer Leash - the cord that attaches a surfboard to the surfer Line-up - the spot in the ocean where surfers line up to catch waves, just behind the breaking zone Lip - the curling part of a wave Localism - an aggressive territorial protection of a surf spot by local surfers Longboard - the longest surfboard Lull - time between sets of wave with no waves breaking Mack - big Mysto spot - a surf spot that breaks on a far away reef Neoprene - an ultra stretchy rubber made from melted-down petroleum chips used to make wetsuits Offshore wind - wind blowing from the shore out to the ocean, holding the curl line and smoothing the wave face Onshore wind - wind blowing from the ocean toward shore, destroying the quality of waves Out the back -

 an Australian expression for paddling through the breaking waves into the line-up zone Outline - the shape of a surfboard from nose to tail Outside - the line-up are, as opposed to inside Paddle battle - a race between surfers to get into a curl first and thus gain the right of way Paipo - a small bellyboard Peak - the spot in the ocean where the wave breaks for both sides Pearling - what happens when a surfer's weight is too far forward and the surfboard nose dives underwater Perfect 10 - a perfectly ridden wave in competitive surfing Pit - the impact zone of the wave, or the most hollow part of the tube Pitted - tubed, barreled Polyurethane - the most common type of material used in surfboard manufacturing Pop-up - the quick move a surfer makes to rise to a standing position when taking off on a wave Punt - to perform an aerial maneuver PWC - personal watercraft; a generic term for a jet ski Quiver - the number/collection of surfboards owned by a surfer Rail - the edge of a surfboard Rash guard - a form-fitting shirt made of nylon-polyester-spandex mixture used under the wetsuit Reef break - a wave that breaks over rock or

 coral Reflection - when a wave strikes a hard object and bounces some of its energy off into another direction Refraction - the effect by which a swell moving along a point of land slows down where it feels shallow water Regular foot - a surfer who rides waves with his left leg forward Right of way - priority given to the surfer closer to the breaking part of the wave Rip - to surf very well Rip current - a strong surface current of short duration flowing seaward from the shore, also known as rip tide Rocker - the curve of the surfboard bottom from nose to tail viewed from the side Rogue wave - an open ocean wave bigger than the current sea condition Section - a part of the wave that breaks ahead of the curl line Set - a group of waves Shaka - a Hawaiian hand gesture used to say "hello," "great," "cool" and "alright" Shaper - a surfboard designer and producer Shoaling - the effect by which waves entering shallower water increase in height Shore break - the area where the ocean waves meet the beach Shortboard - a small surfboard Skeg - an old expression for surfboard fin Slab - an heavy reef break coming out of deep water and breaking in very shallow water Snaking - the aggressive act of

 paddling under, around, or over the top of another surfer to get right of way Soup - the broken foam of a wave Stall - a surf maneuver when a surfer slows the speed the surfboard to let the tube catchup Stance - the surfer's feet position on a surfboard Stick - a slang for surfboard Stringer - the wooden material that runs down the center of the surfboard to give strength and flexibility to the foam Stoked - enthusiastic, exhilarated, or excited SUP - stand up paddleboard Surging wave - a wave that doesn't have time to break because the transition from deep-water to shallow water is too fast.

Swell - energy powered by strong winds which produces wave trains Take-off - the start of a wave ride Thruster - the three-fin surfboard design created by Simon Anderson Tidal bore - a rare phenomenon in which the leading edge of the incoming tide forms a wave that travels up a river Tow-in - when surfers use personal watercraft to tow into waves that can't be paddled into.

Trimming - finding the perfect surf line for speed on the wave face Trough - the bottom of the wave, the opposite of a crest Tsunami - a giant and deadly wave Tube - the hollow interior of a wave, also known as barrel Turtle roll - a surfing technique where the surfer flips the board over in front of an oncoming wave to get under it Twin-fin - a surfboard with two fins Wahine - a female surfer Wave height - the difference between the elevations of a crest and a neighboring trough Wave period - the time between two consecutive wave crests Wave train - a group of swells of similar wavelengths - Wavelength - the distance between the crest of one wave to the crest of the next wave Wax - a paraffin-based product which is applied to the surfboard deck to increase traction and reduce slippery Wedge - a steep wave Wetsuit - a garment made of neoprene which provides thermal insulation Whitewater - the foamy, white-colored water created where a wave breaks Windswell - a group of waves generated by local winds, within less than 800 miles from the coast Wipeout - an unexpected fall off a surfboard while surfing a wave, or surf accident Take an in-depth look at the these

 surfing expressions in " The Surfing Handbook ".

Have we missed a surfing term, name or expression? Send us a suggestion and exact description to editor [at] surfertoday.com. Surfin' Slang Turning left and/or right on a wave. Ankle Busters: Small waves. Avalanche: An outer reef surf spot on Oahu, Hawaii; the white water pouring down the face of a wave. Awesome: Great; fantastic (also see "Off the Richter," "Off the Wall," "Outrageous"). Back Down: To decide not to take off on a wave. Baggys/Baggies: Oversized, loose fitting boxer-type swim trunks worn for show or comfort by surfers. Bail out: To get away from, jump off, or dive off the surfboard just before a potential wipe out. Banzai: A gung-ho type of yell given by surfers as they shoot the curl (also see "Cowabunga"). Banzai Pipeline: A surf spot on the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii, between Waimea Bay and Sunset Beach; also called Pipeline (also see "Pipeline"). Barrel: The breaking motion of a perfect wave; a hollow channel formed inside a good wave when it breaks and curls over.

Beach Bunny: A girl who goes to the beach to watch surfing. Beached: Totally stuffed from eating. Beaver tail: A wet suit that features a snap-on crotch, the shape of which resembles a beaver's tail. Big Gun: A 9-foot or longer surfboard especially designed for large waves. Big Surf: Extremely large waves (also see "Bombora," "Heavies"). Bitchin: (also "Bitchen") Very good; tops; excellent (also see "Boss," "Excellent," "Primo," "Rad"). Blown Out: Winds blowing so hard as to chop up the surf and render it unridable. Body Surfing: Riding the waves without a surfboard. Bogus: False; lame; ridiculous; unbelievable. Bombora: An Australian word that refers to a big wave that breaks outside the normal surf line. Bone Yard: The area where the waves break. Boogie Board: A soft, flexible foam bodyboard invented in the 1970s (unlike a surfboard, a boogie board is ridden lying down). Boss: Outstanding; the best (also see "Bitchin," "Excellent," "Primo," "Rad").

Breaker: Any wave that breaks on the way to the beach. Breakwater: A line of large boulders, cement, and/or steel extending out into the water and designed to reduce shoreline erosion. Bro: (also "Bra") Short for "brother" (also see "Dude"). Bummer: Too bad; a total drag. Bunny: To make a radical turn (also see "Hot-Dogging," "Shred"). Catch a Wave: To ride a breaking wave. Climbing: To carve an S-shaped path on a wave, making a radical Dropping: bottom turn, climbing to the wave's crest, then radically cutting back Cheater Five: Five toes on the nose - keep your weight back on the board to maintain trim and speed, squat down and extend one foot forward Coffin: Riding a surfboard while lying stiffly on one's back with arms crossed. Cowabunga: (also "Kowabunga") A yell of excitement by a surfer (also see "Banzai"). Crest: The top portion of a wave. Cruncher: A big, hard-breaking wave that folds over and is almost impossible to ride.

Curl: The portion of the wave that is spilling over and breaking. Cut Back: To turn toward the breaking part of the wave. Cut out: To pull out of the wave, like kicking out. Ding: A hole, crack, dent, or scratch on the surface of a surfboard. Doggers: Someone behaving inappropriately (also see "Geek," "Kook"). Double Spinner: Two consecutive 360-degree body spins on a surfboard. Drop Knee: One foot on the bodyboard, with the other hanging off the back. Difficult and fun. Dude: A male surfing enthusiast (women are referred to as "dudettes"). Dweeb: A geek; someone who acts or looks like a simpleton. Eat It: To fall off of a surfboard (also see "Wipe Out"). El Rollo: Lying prone on a surfboard and holding on to the sides while rolling 360-degrees during a ride. Excellent: Great; fantastic; exceptional (also see "Bitchin," "Boss," "Primo," "Rad"). Face: The unbroken wall, surface, or nearly vertical front of a wave.

Fer Sure: The surfer pronunciation of "for sure," meaning absolutely, correct, or definitely. Geek: Someone behaving inappropriately (also see "Kook," "Dork"). Glasshouse: A cord attaching the surfer's ankle to the surfboard. Locked In: Firmly set in the curling portion of the wave with water holding down the tail of the board. Log: Slang for pre-foam board made of wood. Longboard: A surfboard eight to ten feet long. Max Out: To be over the limit. Meatball: The yellow flag with the black circle indicating "No Surfing". Mondo: Something huge; of epic proportions. Nailed: To get badly wiped out. Neptune Cocktail: The large bellyful of seawater that one ingested during a particularly gnarly wipeout. Usually happened concurrently with the Sand Facial. Nose: The bow or front end of a surfboard. Off the Richter: Used to describe something that's very good, excellent, or "off the scale" (also see "Awesome," "Off the Wall," "Outrageous").

Off the Wall: Incredible, excellent (also see "Awesome," "Off the Richter," "Outrageous"). Outrageous: Incredible, excellent (also see "Awesome," "Off the Richter," "Off the Wall"). Outside Break: The area farthest from shore where the waves are breaking. Over the Falls: To wipe out, or to get dragged over as the wave breaks. Pearl: Driving the nose of a surfboard under water to stop or slow down the ride. The term is borrowed from "pearl diving." Pendleton: A brightly colored plaid wool or flannel shirt worn by some surfers. Pipeline: A surf spot on the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii, between Waimea Bay and Sunset Beach; also called Banzai Pipeline. Originally named by surfing filmmaker Bruce Brown (also see "Banzai Pipeline"). Point Break: A type of surf break where waves wrap around a promontory of land and curl as they break. A classic example of a point break is located at Rincon, California, just south of the Santa Barbara/Ventura County line. Poser: A surfer "wanna-be"; someone who only dresses the part. Pounder: A hard-breaking wave.

Prone: Ride with your belly on the board. The most common and easiest way to ride a bodyboard. Prone Out: Pulling out of a wave by dropping to your belly causing the nose to go under water and the tail to turn around. Primo: The best (also see "Bitchin," "Boss," "Excellent," "Rad"). Pull Out: To steer a surfboard over or through the back of a wave to end a ride. Quasimoto: Riding forward in a hunched-over position; riding a wave on the nose of a surfboard in a crouched position with one arm forward and one arm back, named by surfer Mickey Muï¿½oz. Rad/Radical: Very good; tops; excellent (also see "Bitchin," "Boss," "Primo," "Excellent"). Rails: The rounded edges of the surfboard. Re-Entry: Attacking the lip, usually going vertically and then turning nose down and re-entering the wave. Ripping: Executing drastic and radical moves on the wave. Having it your way with a wave. Sand Facial: The result of wiping out and being dragged along the bottom, face first.

Sano: Abbreviated form of San Onofre; also means a very clean, nicely contoured wave condition. Selling Buicks: The process of reversing the ingestion of the dreaded Neptune Cocktail. After selling Buicks, it was generally assumed that ones day at the beach was pretty much over. Set: Riding a surfboard with the toes hanging over the front end (also see "Hang Five/Ten") Tube: The hollow portion of a wave formed when the crest spills over and makes a tunnel or hollow space in front of the face of the wave. (The Green Room) Tubed: Riding inside the "tube". Val: Person from the San Fernando Valley, as referred to by persons living in the L.A.-area beach cities. Walking the Board: Walking back and forth on the surfboard to maintain control. Walking the Nose: Moving forward on the board toward the front or nose. Wax: Substance applied to the top, or deck, of surfboards for traction. Wedge, The: A famous, but dangerous, body surfing spot located at the tip of the Balboa peninsula in Newport Beach, California. Wet Suit: A neoprene rubber suit used by surfers to keep warm.

Wipe Out: To fall off or be knocked off your board (also see "Eat It"). Woodie: surfing - National Geographic Society surfing Catch a wave and you're sitting on top of the world. Photograph by Timothy Martin, MyShot Name That Break Banzai Pipeline (reef break in Oahu, Hawaii) Cold Hawaii (point break in Klitmoller, Denmark) G-Land (reef break in Bay of Grajagan, Indonesia) Gnaraloo (reef break in Western Australia) J-Bay (point break in South Africa) The Endless Summer Thats the name of the most famous surfing documentary ever made (1966). The film follows two surfers from Southern California in their trek around the world in search of the perfect wave. They go to Cape Town, South Africa; Tahiti; and Oahu, Hawaii, among other places.

Other surfing documentaries include: The Endless Summer II (1994) Thicker than Water (2000) avalanche = large wave or set of waves that is breaking barrel = hollow tube of a breaking wave dawn patrol = surfers who go out in the early morning goofy foot = to surf with the left foot on the back of the board (regular foot puts the right foot in this position) grommet = young surfer hang ten = to surf with all ten toes curled over the front of the board pearl = putting the nose (front) of the board under water while riding a wave (usually leading to a wipeout) shaka = the gesture (fingers curled, thumb and pinky out) used by surfers for a greeting or recognition wipeout = falling off your surfboard while riding a wave Wherever waves break, surfers will ride them. Surfing is usually associated with warm ocean beach es like those found in the U.S. state s of Hawaii and California, and countries such as Australia. Surfers, however, do not limit themselves to warm weather or ocean waves. Surfers dust a foot of snow off their surfboards to chase waves off the coast of Antarctica.

They trek through jungle s to pristine beaches in Southeast Asia. They share the water with great white sharks in South Africa. They even ride the “silver dragon,” the giant tidal bore of China’s Qiantang River. Surfing is possible in all these places because the concept is simple. A breaking wave, a board and a brave athlete are all that is needed for the sport. (Sometimes, you don’t even need the board. This is called bodysurfing.) The concept is simple, but the practice is not. Surfers paddle or are towed in to the surf line , the area of open water where waves break as they near a coast. There, surfers sit on their boards and watch waves roll in to shore. Experienced surfers assess several different qualities in every wave. A wave must be strong enough to ride, but not dangerous enough to toss the surfer as it breaks. Surfers must be able to ride and safely exit the wave—not too close to shore or rocks. For river waves or those at artificial surfing facilities, surfers watch waves develop and jump right into the breaking wave. When surfers see a wave they can ride, they paddle quickly to catch the rising wave.

Just as the wave breaks, the surfers jump from their bellies to their feet, crouching on their boards. Being able to stand up is the mark of an experienced surfer. Surfers ride the wave as it breaks toward the shore. As the wave falls and loses power, surfers can exit the wave by turning their boards back toward open water. Surfers can also exit by simply lowering themselves back to their boards and paddling back out. Of course, the force of the wave can end surfers’ rides by crashing on or over them. Surfers can be tossed above a wave or below it. Then the process of paddling out to the surf line begins again. Surfers must be aware of their physical skills as well as the environment . There are several different types of surfing (longboard, shortboard or big-wave, for instance). Each requires a different sets of skills. All surfers must be aware of weather patterns and topography , or surface features, of the shore. Experienced surfers are also familiar with bathymetry , the depth of the body of water. They must be strong swimmers. Surfers must also have an excellent sense of balance and be able to quickly react to changes in the environment.

(For this reason, skateboarding is a common hobby among surfers—and surfing is a common hobby among skateboarders.) Men and women from all over the world practice surfing, and the surfing community shares a concern for the ocean environment. Waves Surfing depends on the science of hydrodynamics . Hydrodynamics is the study of water in motion. Oceanographer s, ship captain s, and engineer s must all be familiar with hydrodynamics. Surfers seek out strong waves called swells. Swell s are stable waves that form far away from the beach. Swells are formed by storm systems or other wind patterns. Two things determine the strength of a swell. First, swells are influenced by the strength of the winds that form them. Swells can help predict how strong a storm is as it approaches land. Most storm systems that form far out to sea never reach land with much strength. Sometimes, however, they do. These storms arrive as hurricane s or typhoon s. Hours before a hurricane approaches shore, large and frequent swells signal its arrival. Surfers have been known to ignore hurricane warnings and stay out on stormy beaches because the swells are so frequent and strong.

The second feature that influences swell strength is the wind’s fetch . Fetch is a geographic term that describes the amount of open water over which a wind has blown. The length of fetch is why ocean swells are usually much stronger than lake swells. In the open ocean, a wave's fetch can be thousands of kilometers. Weather forecast ing can predict both elements of swells—offshore storm systems and the length of a wind’s fetch. Surfers consult these surf zone forecast s and can chase swells all over the world. Not all waves are swells, however. Most are smaller, more unpredictable waves, called wind wave s. Swells are a type of wind wave (they are caused by wind), but the term usually refers to waves caused by wind with a shorter fetch. Wind waves have more chop than swells. Chop is the amount of short, irregular shifts in wave formation. Choppy water can be dangerous for surfers because the direction and strength of waves change from minute to minute. Breaking Waves Both wind waves and swells must break (crash) for them to be of use to surfers. A calm day with no wind may be perfect for beachgoers, but makes for lousy surfing weather.

Surfers need a reliable set of breaking waves, which requires moderate offshore wind. The most significant factor in how a wave develops is the underwater topography. Topography is the surface features of an area. Waves can be weakened or strengthened by topographical features of the seabed . Surf break s are permanent features that cause waves to break in a predictable way. Reef s, sandbar s, and large underwater boulder s are examples of common surf breaks. Ocean trench es and submarine canyon s can also determine how a wave breaks. Surfers must account for the presence of sea life, such as a kelp forest , a dense cluster of large seaweed. Seaweed can slow a breaking wave. A wave breaks when its base (the water beneath the surface) can no longer sustain its height. Near shore, waves break because water gets shallower as it nears a beach. The shallower a wave base, the more likely the wave is to break. The region of water where waves begin to break is called the surf line. Waves crash forward, their tips turning frothy and white. Sometimes, a breaking wave crashes into another wave. Other waves curl in on themselves, forming a tube near the crest, or top.

Many surfers consider these tubular wave breaks the most desirable to surf. There are four major types of waves. Experienced surfers can ride all four types, although each has its own difficulties. Rolling wave s (1) are the most familiar waves, and the type most surfers prefer. These waves break in a stable pattern. Rolling waves are usually a feature of a flat, sandy shoreline. The rolling waves at Hossegor, France, on the Bay of Biscay, can reach more than 6 meters (20 feet). Dumping wave s (2) are more unpredictable. These waves are the result of an abrupt change in seabed topography. A steep underwater cliff or mountain can create dumping waves. These waves are usually limited to experienced surfers, as they are dangerous. Dumping waves can dump surfers far beneath the water’s surface with great force. Dumping waves can be the result of point breaks. Point break s occur when a wave hits a point of rocky shore jutting into the ocean. Agadir, on the Atlantic coast of Morocco, boasts several strong point breaks. Dumping waves can also result from reef breaks. Reef break s occur as waves pass over a coral or rocky reef.

Reef breaks can be quite dangerous if the wave dumps the surfer on the reef. However, reef breaks provide some of the most rewarding waves. In Fiji, a reef break called Cloudbreak draws many experienced surfers. Surging wave s (3) are the most dangerous. They are most often present on steep or rocky shores. Unlike rolling or dumping waves, surging waves do not break as they near the shore. They break only at the shore itself. Surging waves are dramatic as they crash against rocky cliffs, for instance. They have the ability to throw surfers against the rock or reef, as well as drag them back to the ocean. Surging waves are often produced by large storms. Surfers can ride waves ahead of storms or waves produced by storms hitting land far away. Surfers in western Florida, for instance, flocked to beaches as Hurricane Ike hit the western Gulf of Mexico in 2008. Standing wave s (4) are also called stationary waves. These waves are constant and do not lose strength. The factors that contribute to these waves—the topography of the region, water flow and wind patterns—do not change.

Examples of standing waves are river rapids and waves created by artificial wave machines, called wave pools. In landlocked areas, wave pools (often located at water parks) allow surfers to practice without having to travel. The first wave pool in the U.S. was established in 1969 in Tempe, Arizona. Equipment The most important piece of equipment a surfer has, or course, is a surfboard. Surfboards are usually hollow and weigh between 4 and 10 kilograms (9-22 pounds). They are usually constructed of manmade materials such as plastic and fiberglass . Most surfboards have slightly raised edges to help with balance. “ Fin s” beneath the rear of the board allow surfers greater control over their ride. Surfboards are divided into two models, longboards and shortboards. They are both about 5 centimeters (2 inches) thick and 48 centimeters (19 inches) wide. Their only major difference is length. A longboard is typically about 3 meters (9 feet) long. The nose , or front part of the surfboard, is rounded.

Longboards can be slightly wider and thicker than shortboards, making them more stable and buoyant (able to stay afloat). This stability serves two functions. First, it allows surfers to catch smaller, weaker waves. This makes longboards excellent tools for beginning surfers. Second, stability allows experienced surfers to perform more advanced maneuver s, such as walking to the nose of the board and “hanging ten”—curling all ten toes over the side. Shortboard s are about 2 meters (6 feet) long. They have a more pointed nose, and usually have more fins than longboards. Their size and shape make shortboards less buoyant than longboards, which means the waves shortboarders catch must be strong and steep. Shortboards are much easier to maneuver. They are more difficult to ride but are popular because they allow surfers greater control. Of course, there are as many types of surfboards as there are surfers: “ funboard s” (about 2.5 meters, or 8 feet, long), bridge the gap between longboards and shortboards; “ fish ” boards have a split tail end; “ gun s” are teardrop-shaped and are ideal for big-wave surfing.

Both longboarders and shortboarders use other equipment. Water can make the board slippery. Surf wax is applied to dry surfboards to help surfers “stick.” Traction pads can be applied to the deck , or upper part of the board, for the same reason. Most surfers attach a leash between their surfboard and their ankle. The leash stops the surfboard from being lost when a surfer exits a wave. Leashes prevent boards from either washing onshore or popping up and injuring other surfers. Depending on surfing conditions (weather, wave type, and wave strength), surfers may outfit themselves with protective gear. Warm-water surfers wear modified wetsuit s or swimsuits. Cold-water surfers can wear full-body wetsuits, including hoods, boots and gloves. Ways to Surf Longboarding and shortboarding require different skills. In addition, athletes can specialize in big-wave surfing, wakesurfing, or bodysurfing. Longboards allow surfers greater balance than any other kind of surfboard. Because of this balance and stability, longboarders can do what looks like gymnastics on their surfboards. Longboard surfers must be adept at “walking” on their boards.

Besides “hanging ten,” they can also “ hang heels ,” where surfers turn around and put their heels over the nose of the surfboard. Daring athletes can even do handstands on their longboards. Shortboards allow for greater maneuverability. Shortboarders practice a variety of different turns. “ Cutback s” are turns that force the surfer back toward the breaking wave. Difficult “off the lip” turns take the surfer off the crest of the wave completely, into the air. Expert surfers can turn in mid-air. Big-wave surf ing is just what it sounds like: surfing very, very big waves. Most surfers ride waves between 3 and 6 meters (9-20 feet) high. Big waves can be four times that high, more than 25 meters (82 feet) tall. These waves usually only form in the open ocean, so big-wave surfers cannot be found on lakes or rivers. Experienced big wave surfers practice “ tow-in surfing ,” where a boat or other watercraft tows surfers past the surf line to where enormous ocean swells break.

When big-wave surfers catch a wave, they drop the towline, the boat or watercraft pulls away, and the surfers brave the mountain of water on their own. Big waves can be formed by underwater topography. The spectacular waves at Mavericks, near Half Moon Bay, California, are the result of an unusual formation on the Pacific Ocean seabed. Bathymetric map s completed in 2007 revealed that the area leading up to Mavericks is an upward slope or ramp. The waves coming up the ramp have more time to form and can draw on the calmer waters from trough s on either side of the ramp. The result is waves that regularly reach 9.15 meters (30 feet) high. Big wave surfers from all over the world travel to Northern California to surf Mavericks. Wakesurf ing is like water skiing on a surfboard. Wake s are the wave trails left by boats or other heavy objects traveling quickly through the water. Surfers on very short boards trail behind boats and surf in the wakes they create. In the Gulf of Mexico near Galveston, Texas, huge ships called oil tanker s are a common sight. Tankers deliver petroleum to and from facilities at the port at Galveston.

Wakesurfers take advantage of these tankers. Boats trail the tankers, and surfers “ tank surf ” the wakes. The wakes are moderate in size—rarely more than 1.5 meters (5 feet) high—but they can be 1.5 kilometers (nearly a mile) long. Bodysurf ing is the art and science of riding down a breaking wave without a board. Bodysurfers often wear specialized swim fin s, or plastic flippers attached to their feet. They can use similar devices on their hands. Bodysurfers use their torso , or upper body, as the board. Approaching a wave, bodysurfers throw one arm straight above the water and use their other arm and legs to steer and stay buoyant in the water. Because the human body is not as large or buoyant as a surfboard, bodysurfers ride slower waves closer to shore. This does not, however, make bodysurfing easier or less dangerous than other forms of surfing. Surfing Safety All forms of surfing require the athlete to be an excellent swimmer. Boards can be broken or lost, and surfers need to be able to swim back to shore.

Waves and currents are extremely strong, and drowning is a risk of the sport. Drown ing can occur by being pulled under the water and by being dragged out to sea. Although surfboards are buoyant, they cannot be relied upon as flotation devices. Every surfer in every type of surfing will eventually experience a wipeout. A wipeout is the act of falling off a surfboard while riding a wave. Wipeouts are more common where waves are larger, stronger or more unpredictable. Waves can throw surfers to the seabed or back to the open ocean. Waves can also toss surfers onto underwater rocks or reefs. (This is what makes point breaks and reef breaks dangerous.) In big-wave surfing, wipeouts are even more dangerous. The tremendous force of the waves can force a surfer as much as 15 meters (51 feet) underwater. Worse, the churning waves can block light and make it difficult for the surfer to tell which way is up. Big-wave surfers need to react quickly to wipeouts. Even experienced big-wave surfers are at risk. Mark Foo, an American surfer from Hawaii, died at Mavericks in 1994.

He wiped out in what was, for him, a moderate-size wave (6 meters, or 20 feet). After wiping out, his leash caught on the rocks below the surf, and Foo drowned. Foo was an outstanding athlete who helped popularize the sport of big-wave surfing, and his death was a shock to the community. Sea life can also pose a danger to surfers. Kelp is large seaweed that can grow 9 meters (30 feet) tall. Kelp forests grow from the ocean floor, and their tops rest on the ocean surface. Kelp poses many dangers to surfers. It can slow waves, tangle surfers, provide habitat for predator s such as shark s, and obscure the view of the ocean floor. Surfers who cannot accurately judge the depth and topography of the ocean floor are in danger. This is why many surfers prefer to surf in fairly clear water. Animals in the surf can put surfers in danger. Bull sharks, tiger sharks, and great white sharks are probably the biggest risk. Surfers paddling on their boards can look like seal s or sea turtle s when viewed from below. Seals and turtles are both prey for sharks.

Exploratory bites from sharks can injure or kill surfers. One of the most famous shark victims in surfing is Bethany Hamilton, an American surfer from Hawaii. She was attacked by a tiger shark in 2003 and lost her left arm. She returned to surfing as soon as she could. Surfing History Hamilton is a professional surfer, meaning she competes with other surfers for money and prizes. Professional surfing is a 20th century invention, although the sport is probably a thousand years old. Surfing was first described by European explorer s of the South Pacific. Polynesia ns of the 18th century surfed the same spots—Hawaii, Fiji, Tahiti—that modern surfers enjoy. Just like today, both men and women participated in surfing. Unlike today, they surfed without wearing any clothes. The earliest surfboards were about the same length as modern surfboards, but much thinner. They were probably used by surfers who paddled or rode on their bellies. Early surfboards used for standing up were much heavier than modern surfboards.

Made of solid wood (such as balsa or mahogany ), these boards weighed up to 90 kilograms (almost 200 pounds). They were much larger than modern longboards, reaching up to 7 meters (23 feet) long. These giant surfboards, called olos or olo board s, were created for Hawaiian royalty. Surfing remained a hobby more than a sport until Olympic athlete Duke Kahanamoku popularized it in the early 1900s. Kahanamoku was a three-time gold medalist in swimming, competing at the 1912, 1920, and 1924 Olympics . A native Hawaiian, Kahanamoku was also an avid surfer. The governments of the U.S. and Australia invited him to demonstrate the sport, and it took hold in both places. Hawaii was not a U.S. state at the time, and Kahanamoku helped make the islands a popular tourist destination. He was the first person inducted into both the Swimming Hall of Fame and the Surfing Hall of Fame. Kahanamoku rode large, heavy surfboards made of solid wood.

Inexpensive new materials like plastic and fiberglass were introduced to surfboard design in the 1940s, making surfing even more popular and widespread. In the 1970s and 1980s, surfers emerged as environmental activist s. Surfers are among the first people who are aware of changes to aquatic ecosystem s. They alert authorities to algal bloom s in the Great Lakes in North America, for instance. Surfers are aware of coral bleaching , when coral s lose their color. Some research suggests that sunscreen, which protects swimmers from the harmful rays of the sun, can contribute to coral bleaching. Surfers were among the first people to react to this possibility, and many responded by choosing to wear light wetsuits instead of swimsuits. This reduce d the need for sunscreen. Groups like Surfer’s Environmental Alliance are concerned with pollution and other threats to beaches and the ocean. Beach pollution can restrict access to beaches and make it difficult for surfers to use trails to the beach. Ocean pollution can make surfing dangerous and unpleasant. Surfers have sued companies and government s to keep the coast and its waters clean.

They have forced paper mill s to limit runoff , oil companies to protect their undersea pipeline s, and states to change the way sewage is treated. The Surfrider Foundation, founded by Southern California surfers, is a leader in environmental protection and conservation . These surfers made surfable waves recognized as a natural resource , just like mineral s, trees and petroleum. Term person who strongly and actively supports an issue or point of view. algal bloom the rapid increase of algae in an aquatic environment. aquatic having to do with water. assess to evaluate or determine the amount of. athlete person who participates or competes in sporting events. avid tropical American tree with extremely light, strong wood, used especially for floats. base bottom layer of a structure. bathymetric map representation of spatial information displaying depth underwater. bathymetry debris or garbage that has washed ashore from a body of water. big-wave surf to ride waves more than 6 meters (20 feet) tall on a surfboard. bodysurf to ride a wave without a surfboard. boulder person in command of a ship or other vessel. chop short, irregular shifts in wave formation.

cliff tiny ocean animal, some of which secrete calcium carbonate to form reefs. coral bleaching loss of symbiotic algae (zooxanthellae) in corals, leading to a loss of pigmentation. coral reef rocky ocean features made up of millions of coral skeletons. crest the top of a wave. current cutback Noun a sharp reversal of direction, such as a surfer turning the board back toward a breaking wave. dangerous the top side of a surfboard. demonstrate to show how something is done. determine to die or suffocate in a liquid. Duke Kahanamoku (1890 - 1968) U.S. Olympic swimmer who popularized the sport of surfing. dumping wave Noun type of wave that breaks suddenly, dumping swimmers and pushing them to the bottom. Also called barrel or plunging waves. ecosystem engineer Noun person who plans the building of things, such as structures (construction engineer) or substances (chemical engineer). enormous conditions that surround and influence an organism or community. equipment tools and materials to perform a task or function. explorer person who studies unknown areas.

fetch the length of open water over which wind is generating waves. fiberglass material made from fine strands of glass that are woven into fabric. fin Noun device fixed to the bottom of a surfboard to aid in control. Also called a strut or skeg. fish short, stubby surfboard with a fish-like shape. forecast to predict, especially the weather. frequent funboard Noun type of surfboard about 2.5 meters (8 feet) long that combines the speed of a longboard with the maneuverability of a shortboard. government system or order of a nation, state, or other political unit. Great Lakes Noun largest freshwater bodies in the world, located in the United States and Canada. Lake Huron, Lake Ontario, Lake Michigan, Lake Erie, and Lake Superior make up the Great Lakes. gun type of surfboard used for riding big waves. habitat hang heels Verb to ride a surfboard facing backward, with the surfer's heels over the front of the board. hang ten to ride a surfboard with all ten toes curled around the front of the board. hurricane Noun tropical storm with wind speeds of at least 119 kilometers (74 miles) per hour.

Hurricanes are the same thing as typhoons, but usually located in the Atlantic Ocean region. Hurricane Ike (2008) storm causing damage to Caribbean nations, Louisiana, and Texas. hydrodynamics the study of water in motion. jungle tropical ecosystem filled with trees and underbrush. kelp underwater habitat filled with tall seaweeds known as kelp. landlocked having no access to an ocean or sea. longboard surfboard with substantial planing surface, about 3 meters (9 feet) long. mahogany type of tree with reddish-brown wood. maneuver inorganic material that has a characteristic chemical composition and specific crystal structure. mountain landmass that forms as tectonic plates interact with each other. natural resource Noun a material that humans take from the natural environment to survive, to satisfy their needs, or to trade with others. nose the front end of a surfboard. obscure to darken or partially block. ocean person who studies the ocean. ocean trench oil Noun fossil fuel formed from the remains of marine plants and animals. Also known as petroleum or crude oil. oil tanker large ship used for transporting petroleum. olo board extremely long, heavy surfboard used by Hawaiian royalty.

Olympics international sports competition divided into summer and winter games held every four years. paper mill facility where paper is manufactured from pulp or wood. petroleum fossil fuel formed from the remains of ancient organisms. Also called crude oil. pipeline series of pipes used to transport liquids or gases over long distances. plastic chemical material that can be easily shaped when heated to a high temperature. point break area where underwater rocks or land jutting out from shore forces waves to break. pollution island group in the Pacific Ocean between New Zealand, Hawaii, and Easter Island. port Noun place on a body of water where ships can tie up or dock and load and unload cargo. animal that hunts other animals for food. prey animal that is hunted and eaten by other animals. pristine reef Noun a ridge of rocks, coral, or sand rising from the ocean floor all the way to or near the ocean's surface. reef break area where a coral or rocky reef force waves to break. rolling wave type of wave that breaks in a stable pattern. Also called a spilling wave. runoff underwater or low-lying mound of sand formed by tides, waves, or currents. seabed the floor of the ocean.

seal marine mammal with flippers and a sleek coat. sea turtle one of several endangered species of marine reptile native to tropical and subtropical oceans. seaweed Noun marine algae. Seaweed can be composed of brown, green, or red algae, as well as "blue-green algae," which is actually bacteria. sewage liquid and solid waste material from homes and businesses. shark beach, or where a body of water meets land. shortboard type of surfboard about 2 meters (6 feet) long. skateboarding Noun art and sport of riding a short piece of wood or plastic mounted on four wheels. slope slant, either upward or downward, from a straight or flat path. snow precipitation made of ice crystals. spectacular type of wave that does not move or lose strength. state political unit in a nation, such as the United States, Mexico, or Australia. steep severe weather indicating a disturbed state of the atmosphere resulting from uplifted air. submarine canyon Noun underwater valley formed by eroding streams of muddy water through which sediment ultimately reaches and spreads across the flat abyssal plains of the ocean floor. surf waves as they break on the shore or reef.

surf break Noun underwater obstacle that causes waves to break, causing waves that can be surfed before eventually crashing. surfing point in the ocean at which waves begin to break. surf wax wax applied to surfboards to help the surfer's feet stick to the surface. surf zone forecast document produced by the National Weather Service that predicts the wave action of specific areas. surging wave type of wave that does not break until it reaches the shore or cliff. sustain stable, crestless wind wave formed far out at sea. swim fin flat, usually plastic devices attached to a swimmer's feet to enhance movement. Also called flippers. tank surf to use a surfboard to ride the waves created behind oil tankers. tidal bore Noun study of the shape of the surface features of an area. torso body, excluding head and limbs. Also called a trunk. tourist person who travels for pleasure. tow-in surfing Noun type of surfing where the surfer is transported beyond the surf line by a boat or Jet Ski. traction the grip between an object and the surface on which it moves. trek journey, especially across difficult terrain. tremendous a gently sloping depression in the ocean floor.

typhoon Noun tropical storm with wind speeds of at least 74 miles (119 kilometers) per hour. Typhoons are the same thing as hurricanes, but usually located in the Pacific or Indian Ocean region. wake track of waves left behind boats or other large objects moving through water. wakesurf Verb to use a surfboard to ride the waves created behind boats or other large objects in the water. watercraft transportation vessel, such as a boat, for a body of water. wave moving swell on the surface of water. weather wind Noun movement of air (from a high pressure zone to a low pressure zone) caused by the uneven heating of the Earth by the sun. wind wave movement of surface water caused by the motion of air. wipeout

Question: What is it called when a surfer falls off the surfboard while riding a wave?
Answer: Wipeout