Glossary of Fabric Terms - Fabric - Store A manufactured fiber, its major properties include a soft, wool-like hand, machine washable and dryable and excellent color retention. Alpaca A natural hair fiber obtained from the Alpaca sheep, a domesticated member of the llama family. Angora The hair of the Angora goat. Also known as Angora mohair. Angora may also apply to the fur of the Angora rabbit. Antique Satin A reversible satin-weave fabric with satin floats on the technical face and surface slubs on the technical back created by using slub-filling yarns. It is usually used with the technical back as the right side for drapery fabrics and often made of a blend of fibers. Batik A method of dyeing fabric where some areas are covered with wax or pastes made of glues or starches to make designs by keeping dyes from penetrating in pattern areas. Multicolored and blended effects are obtained by repeating the dyeing process several times, with the initial pattern of wax boiled off and another design applied before dyeing again in a new color. A lightweight, plain weave fabric, semi-sheer and usually made of cotton or cotton blends.

Appropriate for heirloom sewing, baby clothes and lingerie. Bedford Cord A cord cotton-like fabric with raised ridges in the lengthwise direction. Since the fabric has a high strength and a high durability, it is often used for upholstery and work clothes. A fabric with a crosswise rib made from textile fibers (as rayon, nylon, cotton, or wool) often in combination. Boiled Wool Felted knitted wool, it offers the flexibility of a knit with great warmth. Create your own by washing double the needed amount of 100% wool jersey in hot water and drying in a hot dryer. Expect 50% shrinkage. Appropriate for jackets, vests and stuffed animals. Blackout A type of fabric that is commonly used for drapery, this fabric has the distinctive quality of blocking light, and comes in two forms: 2-pass and 3-pass. Two-pass has two “passes” of foam on a fabric, which means the black layer of foam will be visible. 3-pass has two layers of white and one layer of black foam. Three-pass can also be used as an upholstery fabric, as the black layer is not visible. Blackout fabrics can also be insulating and noise-dampening.

Buckram A very stiff cotton fabric that is been soaked in a substance to fill in the gaps between the fibers. The fiber is usually cotton and is finished with starch and resin. Buckram fabric is most commonly used as the supporting material inside of baseball caps. It is also used in lady's hats, costumes, belts, and handbags. A loosely constructed, heavy weight, plain weave fabric. It has a rough hand. Appropriate for draperies and decorative items. Burn-out Velvet Created from two different fibers, the velvet is removed with chemicals in a pattern leaving the backing fabric intact. Appropriate for more unconstructed and loosely fit garments. Chenille The French word for caterpillar, this soft fabric is created by placing short pieces of yarns between core yarns and twisting the yarn together to make a fabric. This fabric is commonly used for baby items and in home décor fabrics. Chantilly lace This lace has a net background, and the pattern is created by embroidering with thread and ribbon to create floral designs. The pattern has areas of design that are very dense, and the pattern is often outlined with heavier cords or threads.

Charm Quilt A quilt made of many, many small patches (traditionally 2" or so) where each piece is a different fabric. The pattern is usually a one-patch design and often involves swaps and trades with friends to gather many fabrics. Charmuese A luxurious, supple silky fabric with a shiny satin face and a dull back. Generally either silk, rayon ,or polyester. Suitable for blouses, fuller pants and lingerie. Cotton a white vegetable fiber grown in warmer climates in many parts of the world, has been used to produce many types of fabric for hundreds of years. Cotton fabric feels good against the skin regardless of the temperature or the humidity and is therefore in great demand by the consumer. Used to describe all kinds of fabrics--wool, cotton, silk, rayon, synthetics and blends-that have a crinkle, crimped or grained surface. Crepe Charmeuse A smooth, soft luster fabric of grenadine silk warp and filling, with latter given crepe twist. It has the body and drape of satin and is used for dresses and eveningwear. Crepe de Chine Silk crepe de chine has a slightly crinkly surface create with highly twisted fibers.

It comes in three weights: 2 ply, appropriate for blouses and lingerie; 3 ply, appropriate for dresses, fuller pants and dresses; and 4 ply, most luxurious and best for trousers and jackets. Crepe-back Satin A satin fabric in which highly twisted yarns are used in the filling direction. The floating yarns are made with low twist and may be of either high or low luster. If the crepe effect is the right side of the fabric, the fabric is called satin-back crepe. Crewel A true crewel fabric is embroidered with crewel yarn (a loosely twisted, two-ply wool) on a plain weave fabric. Traditional crewel fabrics are hand-woven and embroidered in India. The design motif for crewel work is typically outlines of flowers, vines, and leaves, in one or many colors. Modern weaving technology and inventive designers create traditional "crewel" looks with weave effects alone, without the use of embroidery. Crocheted Denim A twill weave cotton fabric made with different colored yarns in the warp and the weft. Due to the twill construction, one color predominates on the fabric surface. Suitable for pants, jackets and skirts.

Pre-wash and dry 100% cotton denim at least twice to eliminate shrinkage and color bleeding. Dimity A lightweight and sheer cotton fabric that features a raised texture. Usually seen in light colors, but occasionally printed as well. Dimity fabric is commonly used in window treatments, draperies, and heirloom projects. A decorative weave, characterized by small figures, usually geometric, that are woven into the fabric structure. Doeskin Generally applied to fabric with a low nap that is brushed in one direction to create a soft suede-like hand on the fabric front. Great for tops, pants and fuller skirts. A lightweight, sheer cotton or cotton blend fabric with a small dot flock-like pattern either printed on the surface of the fabric, or woven into the fabric. End-uses for this fabric include blouses, dresses, baby clothes, and curtains. Double Cloth A fabric construction, in which two fabrics are woven on the loom at the same time, one on top of the other. In the weaving process, the two layers of woven fabric are held together using binder threads. The woven patterns in each layer of fabric can be similar or completely different. A weft knit fabric in which two layers of loops are formed that cannot be separated.

A double knit machine, which has two complete sets of needles, is required for this construction. Double Rub Double rubs measure a fabric’s abrasion resistance, determined by the Wyzenbeek test. Each “rub” is one back and forth pass over a stretched piece of fabric by a mechanical arm. The test is run until the fabric shows noticeable wear. Consider the double rub count when purchasing upholstery fabric for a high-traffic area in your home. Drill Strong, medium- to heavyweight, warp-faced, twill-weave fabric. It is usually a 2/1 left-handed twill and piece dyed. A sheer, open-weave fabric usually cotton or silk. It is suitable for blouses, dresses and curtains. Georgette A drapey woven fabric created from highly twisted yarns creating a pebbly texture. It is semi-sheer and suitable for blouses, full pants and flowing dresses. A medium weight, plain weave fabric with a plaid or check pattern. End-uses include dresses, shirts, and curtains. Gossamer Very soft, gauzelike veiling originally of silk. Grois Point A fabric which features large points of yarn on the surface of the fabric.

Grosgrain A tightly woven, firm, warp-faced fabric with heavy, round filling ribs created by a high-warp count and coarse filling yarns. Grosgrain can be woven as a narrow-ribbon or a fullwidth fabric. A fabric, usually handwoven which has been tie-dyed in the yarns prior to weaving. The pattern can range from simple little dots to intricate double ikats. Interlining An insulation, padding, or stiffening fabric, either sewn to the wrong side of the lining or the inner side of the outer shell fabric. The interlining is used primarily to provide warmth in coats, jackets, and outerwear. Also known as T-shirt knit. It usually has stretch across the grain. Great for tops, skirts and lightweight pants. Irish Poplin There are two types of Irish poplin: (1) Originally a fabric constructed with silk warp and wool filling in plain weave with fine rib. (2) Fine linen or cotton shirting also made in Ireland. Sometimes used for neckwear. Knit Fabric Fabrics made from only one set of yarns, all running in the same direction.

Some knits have their yarns running along the length of the fabric, while others have their yarns running across the width of the fabric. Knit fabrics are held together by looping the yarns around each other. Knitting creates ridges in the resulting fabric. Wales are the ridges that run lengthwise in the fabric; courses run crosswise. Knit-de-knit A type of yarn texturizing in which a crimped yarn is made by knitting the yarn into a fabric, and then heat-setting the fabric. The yarn is then unraveled from the fabric and used in this permanently crinkled form. Napped Napped fabric has a surface texture with an added visual appeal, and is frequently featured in flannel, corduroy, velvet, and satin. The napped texture creates soft, heavy, and warm qualities, making it perfect for shirting, sleepwear, and baby blankets. Double napped fabrics are brushed on both sides, while single-napped is only brushed on one side. When sewing with fabrics with a distinct nap, be sure to allow for extra fabric, and lay all of your pattern pieces going in the same direction.

Refers to any open-construction fabric whether it is created by weaving, knitting, knotting, or another method. Noil Noil is a short fiber that is left over when combing longer fibers during textile production. Silk noil fabric is created from taking the leftover noils from spinning silk to create an overall raw silk fabric that features a gentle drape, slightly nubby, uneven texture, and dull surface. Noil fabric is perfect for creating loose-fitting jackets, skirts, dresses, and home décor accents. Ottoman A heavy, plain weave fabric with wide, flat crosswise ribs that are larger and higher than in faille. It sometimes comes with alternating narrow and wide ribs. When made of narrow ribs only, it is called soleil. Warp may be silk or manmade fiber; filling may be cotton, silk, wool, or manmade fiber. Used for dress coats, suits, and trimmings. Outdoor Outdoor fabric is used to recover cushions, pillows, create awnings, and more for spaces exposed to nature’s elements like the sun and rain. Created with polyester or acrylic fibers, outdoor fabric is durable, soil and stain resistant, and can be cleaned by wiping with a damp rag.

Panel A panel is a cotton print that can be used for anything from quilt projects to aprons, doll clothes, or soft books. Most commonly used in quilting, panels feature a large design that is often featured in the center of a quilt, making it perfect for themed projects. Some panels also feature instructions and cut-outs for projects like an apron or book. Panné Satin Lightweight silk or manmade fiber satin fabric with very high luster achieved with aid of heavy roll pressure. Crushes easily. Used for eveningwear. Panné Velvet A lustrous, lightweight velvet fabric, in which the pile has been flattened in one direction. Has good stretch across the grain. Appropriate for tops and dresses. A soft fabric with a brushed texture similar to the skin of a peach on one side, with a good amount of drape. Peachskin is often used to create blouses, skirts, and dresses with a lining. Peau de Soie A heavy twill weave drapeable satin fabric, made of silk or a manufactured fiber, and used for bridal gowns and eveningwear.

Pima Cotton A type of cotton plant developed in the Southwestern USA from a cross between Egyptian and Uplands cotton which is longer in fiber length and more lustrous than most American cottons. It is used to weave some of the popular quilting fabrics which have a silk-like hand. Plissé A lightweight, plain weave, fabric, made from cotton, rayon, or acetate, and characterized by a puckered striped effect, usually in the warp direction. The crinkled effect is created through the application of a caustic soda solution, which shrinks the fabric in the areas of the fabric where it is applied. Plissé is similar in appearance to seersucker. End-uses include dresses, shirtings, pajamas, and bedspreads. Plush A compactly woven fabric with warp pile higher than that of velvet. Made of cotton, wool, silk, or manmade fiber, often woven as double face fabric and then sheared apart. Higher pile gives bristly texture. Usually piece-dyed but may be printed. Used for coats, upholstery. Pointelle Unclipped, looped pile, 100% cotton terry cloth is highly absorbent.

French Terry has a looped reverse and a knit-like face. Ticking A variety of fabrics are known as "ticking." The main weave is a closely-woven, thick yarn twill. Spaced, colored, and natural or white yarns repeated in the warp, and all natural or white in the filling, forming a stripe. Several color combinations used, as blue and white, brown and white, red and white. Heavy warp-face sateens as well as heavy sheetings are printed and sold as ticking. Jacquard damask ticking woven in damask effects also sold for this purpose as well as other fabrics, such as drills. Toile A type of decorating pattern consisting of a white or off-white background on which a repeated pattern depicting a fairly complex scene, generally of a pastoral theme such as (for example) a couple having a picnic by a lake. The pattern portion consists of a single colour, most often black, dark red, or blue. Greens and magenta toile patterns are less common but not unheard of. Wool is naturally stain and wrinkle resistant. It can absorb up to 40% of it’s weight in moisture without feeling damp.

Wool comes in many forms including crepe, challis, gabardine, merino, melton, jersey and worsted wool suitings. Wool Crepe A lightweight worsted fabric with a more or less crinkly appearance, obtained by using warp yarns that are tightly twisted in alternate directions. The term is often applied to lightweight worsted fabrics for women's wear that have little or no crepe surface. Woven Fabric Fabrics composed of two sets of yarns. One set of yarns, the warp, runs along the length of the fabric. The other set of yarns, the fill or weft, is perpendicular to the warp. Woven fabrics are held together by weaving the warp and the fill yarns over and under each other. Fabrics | LARISA GUZOVA in FASHION LARISA GUZOVA in FASHION Fabrics CLASSIC FABRICS Many fabrics do not have a specific name, but there are numerous others that do. These tend to be the `Classic fabrics` that have been reproduced time and again thoughout history, either because they are of great practical value or because they are exquisitely beautiful, and sometimes for both of these reasons.

Fabrics such as canvas, tweed, wool, tartan and silk have been widely used for many centuries and continue in their popularity today. Most of the fabrics described are in current use, but a number that appear to be obsolete are also included. The aims of my research is : – To preserve our knowledge of the diversity of classic fabrics, which form part of our cultural heritage. – To provide information on a range of new developments in fabrics. – To understand the characteristics of different types of fabrics, thus allowing to assess their suitability for particular end uses. – To promote an appreciation of the variety of fabrics and textile materials currently available in the market. – To provide information about particular fabrics that could be produces for special niche market. Much of the beauty and integrity of the original classic fabrics discussed here stems from the fact that they were made with raw materials produssed in the areas where the fabrics originated. For example, in England and Scotland many of the classic tweed fabrics were produced from the wool of the local Cheviot breed of sheep. This type of wool produced unique fabrics that are very warm and hard-wearing (some Harris tweed jackets have been known to last more than a generation).

It is not possible to achieve the same quality by using wool from other breeds of sheep or by including man-made fibres, and any fabrics containing these elements will inevitably differ from the original fabric. The same is true of classic fabrics produced elsewhere in the world. India, China and other countries in the Far East traditionally have specialized in fine silk fabrics made in the regions include pongee, shantung and tussore, each with its own unique characteristics. The southern states of the United States, the West Indies, Egypt and parts of India all have climates that are ideal for the production of cotton, and historically they have produced a great variety of cotton fabrics. Much of Europe, including Ireland, France, Belgium and Russia, has a climate that is perfectly suited to the production of flax, used to make linen fabric. Classic fabrics produced in these countries include Irish linen and Holland. Thus the production and the quality of the majority of original classic fabrics worldwide are closely linked to the raw materials from which they are made, and ultimately to their regions of origin, giving these textiles a unique look and character that are impossible to match with materials from elsewhere. Many of the classic fabrics produced today have changed a great deal when compared to their historical equivalent.

It also should be noted that, because some classic fabrics have been produced in more than one part of the world, they may have evolved in different ways in different places, but there may be countries and regions that have a slightly different understanding and perception of how certain fabrics should be. This should be taken into account when working with suppliers overseas. Another consideration is that fabrics are constantly coming in and going out of popularity in response to changes in fashion and to market demands. There are also regional trends, so that fabrics may be available in some countries but not in others. This makes it difficult to decide which fabrics are in production and which are currently obsolete. Lastly, one should be aware of the rapid pace at which fabrics are changing. New man-made fibre technology, new construction techniques and processes, and recent developments in finishing have not only led to the design of many new qualities of existing fabrics, but have also inspired a wide range of completely new textiles. Presentation of fabric name. ALBERT CLOTH– a heavy, reversible, woven fabric of good quality, made from wool and used for overcoating. The fabric construction and thickness of the yarns make it particularly warm. END USES: coats and jackets.

ALPACA FABRIC– a general term for any fabric constructed with yarns made from the fleece of the alpaca (lama pacos), a relative of the llama. Alpaca is a natural animal fibre, classed as a speciality hair fibre. Strictly speaking, the `alpaca fabric` should be used only for fabric made from 100% alpaca fibre. Alpaca union fabrics are usually fine, springy, lustrous woven fabrics.They are frequently black, and resemble mohair fabrics. END USES: coats, jackets, men`s suitings, dresses.(woven fabric); Cardigans, jackets, coats, jumpers, shawls and scarves (knitted fabric) ANGORA FABRIC (rabbit-hair fabric) angora fibre or hair is a natural animal fibre and it is classed as a speciality hair fibre. Characteristically, it is a warm, extremely soft fibre that has a high natural lustre.

END USES: coats, jackets and suits(woven fabrics); cardigans, jackets, jumpers, shawls and scarves (knitted fabric) ASTRAHAN FABRIC – a thick, lustrous curly pile fabric made in imitation of the fleece from young or stillborn karakul lambs, originally from the Astrakhan region of Russia. It is also known as `karakul cloth`. There are woven and knitted versions, and it is usually a heavyweight fabric. END USES: overcoats, jackets, collars, hats and bags. BAIZE – a woven fabric made from wool that has been heavily milled and felted. It is medium to heavy in weight, has a slightly rough handle, and is usually piece-dyed in bright red or green. END USES: wall coverings, billiard table coverings. BANNOCKBURN – a thick, firmly woven, half woollen, half worsted fabric. It is a type of tweed, sometimes called `paper and salt tweed` because of the characteristic speckled effect produced by the arrangement of yarn colours.

Traditionally Bannockburn is woven either in a 2/2 twill or a herringbone weave from Cheviot woollen-spun yarns (from British Cheviot breed of sheep). END USES: suits, jackets and lightweight overcoats. BARATHEA – a closely woven fabric with a smooth but pebbly surface texture. END USES: dresses, men`s neckties, cravats, shirts, men`s suits and evening wear, uniform, coats and skirts. BARK CLOTH (tapa cloth) – a nonwoven fabric, similar to felt in it is construction. It is made from the inner bark of certain tropical twhich is treated to make the fibres mat together to form a fabric. END USES: clothing, decorative wall hangings. BEAVER CLOTH – a heavy woollen fabric with a dense, firm texture. It is given a special finishing sequence to make it resemble beaver fur and is usually used as a coating fabric. END USES: winter-weight overcoats, jackets, uniforms and hats. BLANKET – a thick fabric with good thermal insulation, chiefly used as bedding.

Blankets may be produced by weaving or knitting, or as needlefelt. There are many traditional types of blanket produced worldwide. : -Ayrshire blanket (Scotland) all wool blankets woven in 2/2 twill weave with a dark blue borders and milled but not raised. -Bath or Cheviot blankets (England) Cheviot wool blankets woven in 2/2 twill weave with a dark blue border and heavily raised. -Yorkshire blankets (England) -Buffalo check (United State) END USES: bed covering BLANKET CLOTH – a woven fabric, characteristically raised during finishing to give a soft, brushed nap. There are two main types: one made from wool and used as an overcoating fabric, and the other made from cotton and used for bathrobes. END USES: lightweight jackets, suits, and caps. BOLIVIA – a soft thick and firm woven fabric with a cut weft pile surface. It is usually made from wool and characteristically has a soft, velvet-like pile surface, where the pile runs in lines.

Bolivia is usually made from 100% worsted wool and sometimes also contains a speciality hair fibre such as mohair or alpaca. END USES: coats, suitings. BOUCLE FABRIC – a fabric with a looped, textured surface that is woven or knitted using fancy `boucle` yarns. Loops inherent in the yarn protrude from the surface of the fabric in an all-over irregular manner to form a loop pile on the surface of the fabric. The word `Boucle` comes from the Franch meaning `buckled, curled or looped`. END USES: ladies` coats, suits and dresses (woven boucle fabric); sweaters, jackets, dresses. (knitted fabrics). BROADCLOTH – a very fine, high-quality fabric that is woven in wide widths in the weaving loom (hence the name) there are three main traditional types: cotton broadcloth, silk broadcloth and woollen broadcloth. Woollen broadcloth is completely different from either cotton or silk broadcloth. It is soft, smooth, slightly felty but lustrous woollen or wool blend fabric with a velvety handle and good drape.

It is a very high-quality fabric. It is usually woven in 2/1 or 2/2 twill weave. Woollen broadcloth is sett extra wide in the loom to allow for shrinkage during the finishing process. For example, a 230 cm. Fabric in the loom is finished at 140 cm. Wide. Woollen broadcloth is usually dyed in dark colours. It is a similar fabric to beaver cloth, kersey and melton. END USES: coats, jackets, suits, tailored clothes and traditional ecclesiastical garments. BUCKSKIN FABRIC: -a durable woven fabric made in imitation of the skin of a male fallow deer. It is usually made in cream, brown or beige colours, like the colour of real deerskin. Buckskin fabric may be made from wool, or it may be a type of woven suede cloth fabric made with man-made fibres, often polyester. Wool buckskin fabric is woven from fine merino wool in a number of different closely sett satin weave variations. END USES: riding breeches, trousers, jackets, curtains and upholstery.

BUFFALO CHECK – traditionally a thick, heavy colour-woven fabric, originally woven in wool and used for coats, jackets and blankets. Characteristically it has a bold, large-scale check pattern all over the fabric, often in black and red. It is strong, durable and warm fabric. Traditionally this fabric is also known as `Mackinaw` or `Mackinac`. This was the name given to the double-breasted jacket made from this fabric worn by lumberjacks. The name comes from Mackinaw City, in Michigan, United States, where buffalo check coats and blankets were once traded with American Indians. CAMEL-HAIR FABRIC – a general term for any fabric constructed with yarns made from camel hair, a natural animal fibre from either the Bactrian camel or the dromedary camel. It is classed as a speciality hair fibre. Both the strong, coarse outer hair and the soft, fine undercoat are used. For clothing, it is usually the undercoat fibres that are used: these are warm and extremely soft fibres that have a high natural lustre.

Strictly speaking, the term `camel-hair fabric` should be applied only to fabrics made from 100% camel hair. END USES: coats, scarves, suits, dressing gowns, rugs. CASHMERE CLOTH – cashmere fabric, a general term for any fabric constructed with cashmere yarn or fibre. Cashmere is a natural animal fibre from the undercoat of a range of different Asiatic goat breeds, including (Capra hircus laniger) it is classed as a speciality hair fibre. Most cashmere is produced in China, however, hair with a similar average diameter from other breeds of goat selectively bred in Australia, New Zealand and Scotland may also be regarded as cashmere. Cashmere cloth is known for its extreme softness, and it is luxurious and expensive when made from 100% cashmere fibre. However, such fabrics are rare. Cashmere cloth may be woven or knitted. END USES: overcoats, suits, dresses, shawls, scarves, jackets, jumpers. CHALLIS – a soft, light, dress-weight fabric woven in a slightly open-sett plain weave.

It is a particularly fine, high-quality fabric, noted for its softness and drape. When woven in wool, it is the finest type of delaine fabric. Wool challis is the softest and finest of all wool sheer fabrics. Characteristically, challis is woven in plain weave using very fine yarns and it frays easily. It was first produced in the 1830 s in Norwich, England, from silk and worsted wool yarns. Other qualities are made in: fine 100% wool; 80% wool/20% silk; wool/polyester; wool/nylon; cotton; and various man-made fibres. END USES: dresses, blouses, shirts, men`s neckties and scarves. CHECKS – fabrics with a characteristic pattern of squares, rectangles or lines crossing at right angles to one another. Checks may be woven or knitted into a fabric or printed onto the surface of a fabric. When constructed in a fabric, checks may be created in several different ways that may be used singly or in combination. – Colour effects. Two or more contrasting colours in the warp and weft directions from the check pattern. – Contrasting yarns.

Different yarns in the warp and weft directions form textural check patterns. Fancy yarns or different yarn counts may be used. – Structural effects. Fabric structural effects in the warp and weft directions form textural check patterns. Many check fabrics also have an `overcheck`, or a secondary check design over the top of a ground check. The overcheck is usually in contrasting colours to the ground. Many tartan fabrics have this feature. A fabric with a fine outline check against a plain ground is usually called `window-pane check`. `Plaid` is a general term, used especially in the United States, for elaborate check patterns (like Tartan). There is a great variety of classic check patterns.

For the best-known check fabrics like: Buffalo check, Burberry check, Cranky checks, Diced weaves, District check, Doria stripes, Four-pointed star check, Gingham, Glen Urquhart check, Guards check, Gunclub check, Harvard shirtings, Horse-blanket check, Houndstooth check, Huckaback, Madras, Pinhead check, Prince of wales check, Pajama fabric, Shadow stripes and checks, Shepherd`s check, Shirting fabrics, Tartan, Tattersall check, Zanzibar, Zephyr. END USES: all kinds of fashion and furnishing fabrics. CHEVIOT – a medium – to heavyweight tweed fabric that is traditionally woven using Cheviot wool. It is a coarse, rough, fibrous-surfaced fabric that is very warm and hard-wearing. Cheviot wool is wool from the Cheviot breed of sheep, which originated in the Cheviot Hills in the Scottish Borders region of Great Britain. The classic Cheviot fabric is woven using Cheviot wool. END USES: men`s casual suits and jackets, overcoats.

COATING FABRIC –any fabric (woven, knitted or nonwoven) that may be made into coats or overcoats. Coating fabrics are worm mainly for protection against the weather. Most, therefore, are very warm and hard-wearing for use in cold weather, and /or waterproof, water-repellent or windproof for protection against those elements. Some, however, are purely fashion fabrics.

Coating fabrics include: Afgalaine, Albert cloth, Alpaca fabric, Angora fabric, Armure, Astrakhan fabric, Bannockburn, Beaver cloth, Bedford cord, Blanket cloth, Bolivia, Boucle fabric, Box cloth, Broadcloth (woollen), Buffalo check, Cadet cloth, Camel-hair fabric, Canvas, Cashmere cloth, Cavalry twill, Chenille fabric, Cheviot, Chinchilla fabric, Covert cloth, Donegal, Duffel, Eponge, Eskimo cloth, Fleece fabric, Flushing, Frieze, Fur fabric, Gaberdine, Granada, Herris tweed, Imperial cloth, Kersey, Loden cloth, Marengo melton, Microfibre fabric, Mohair fabric, Molleton, Montagnac, Pilot cloth, Plush, Polar fleece, Polo cloth, Poodle cloth, Quilted fabric, Ratine, Saxony, Serge, Suede cloth, some tartan fabrics, Tattersall check, Thornproof tweed, Tweed, Ulster, Velvet, Velveteen, Wool venetian, Vicuna fabric, West of England fabrics, Whipcord and Zibeline.

EYELASH FABRIC-a woven or knitted fabric that has a decorative surface of fringing, composed of cut yarns or threads that float freely over the surface of the fabric. Eyelash fabrics are made using many fibre types. END USES: ladies` evening wear, occasion wear, threatrical costumes. FEARNOUGHT –a term given to a number of different thick, heavy woven fabric that are woven from recycled wool and wool shoddy combined and used as coating fabrics. Fearnought is napped during finishing to produce a long-haired, rough, shaggy face. Some qualities are made from Cheviot wool and these fabrics are similar to Cheviot. END USES: overcoating, scarves. FEATHER CLOTH –a soft novelty fabric made with wool yarn mixed with feathers (chicken or ostrich) sewn onto fabric. It was popular in the 1960 s . END USES: for evening dresses, trousers, jackets, stoles and shawls. FELT-a nonwoven fabric composed of a web of entangled fibres. Felting is one of the oldest knownmethods of making a fabric. It is also one of the cheapest.

Felt is characteristically quite a stiff, weak fabric, with poor drape and no elasticity. It does not wear well and loses its shape easily. Felt maybe made with any fibre, but some of the best qualities are made from wool. There are two main kinds of felt, constructed in different ways. – Pressed felt. Pressed felt is a nonwoven fabric. It is made chiefly from staple animal fibres, in particular wool. These fibres have the natural characteristic of surface scales, which cause them to interlock and mat together with the application of heat, moisture and mechanical pressing action. Chemicals or bonding agents are sometimes also added. The pressure compacts the fibres into place. Felt made from animal fibres other then wool is sometimes called `Fur felt`. Wool or hair fibres that can felt are sometimes mixed with cheaper non-felting fibres, such as viscose; in this case the felting fibre should make up approximately 50% of the mix. – Needlefelt. Needlefelt is a nonwoven fabric formed by the mechanical bonding of fibres using needles. The needles are mounted in a needleloom and have barbed edges.

The process of punching the needles into the web of fibres is called `Needling`. This causes the fibres to become entangled with one another. Using this method, felts may be made from any fibre blends, for example cotton, wool, viscose, synthetic or waste fibres. The felts that are made from manufactured fibres, however, are stronger than the natural fibre felt. Needlefelts may be produced as flat fabric or may have either a cup pile or a loop pile texture. Sometimes, especially with very fine needlefelts, a scrim fabric is used as a support fabric in order to aid the punching operation and to provide greater strength and dimensional stability. Tru felt is aiways nonwoven. However, other fabrics-especially woven-maybe given a special finish to produce a felt-like appearance. These fabrics are called `Felted fabric`. Woven fabrics finished in this way have not only the appearance of felt, but also the strength and durability that true felt lacks. Like also: Recycled Textiles, Scrim, Nonwoven fabric.

END USES: hats, appliqué, slippers, handicrafts, bags, fancy dress, theatrical costumes, coats, interlining, upholstery, curtains, table and floor coverings, insulation, padding soundproofing, filtering and industrial end uses. FELTED FABRIC-a fabric given a special finish to produce a felt-like appearance. Most felted fabrics are woven fabrics, but knitted fabrics may also be felted. The finish is called `Milling`, `Felting` or `Fulling`. Fabrics made from staple animal fibres, especially wool or blends, may be felted or milled during finishing to make them fuller and denser. The woven fabric is heavily milled while wet and soapy. The wet fabric is alternately extended and compressed as it is continuously fed through rollers. The heat, moisture and mechanical action used in the the process cause the fibres on the surface of the fabric to interlock and matt together. Depending on the intensity of the process, the fabric structure underneath may be completely obscured. Sometimes this, cheap fabric are given a felted finish to improve their cover and appearance and to make them warmer. Fabrics are often raised or napped in addition to being milled or felted.

Examples of fabrics that are milled during finishing include baize, beaver cloth, billiard cloth, blazer cloth, box cloth, broadcloth (woollen), duffel, flushing kersey, loden cloth, Marengo, melton and molleton. END USES: coats, jackets, blazers, suits, skirts, trousers. FLANNEL-a woven, wool-based fabric that is given a special finish to raise the nap, producing characteristically dull fabric with a slightly fuzzy appearance and a soft handle. It was traditionally an all-wool fabric, but wool blends and wool union fabrics are now also made. Flannel fabrics are available in a wide variety of weights, ranging from light to heavy. The fabrics vary in density of yarns and degree of nap finish. Traditional flannel fabrics are made from 100% woollen or worsted yarns. Other qualities are also made by blending wool with other fibres, such as nylon, polyester or cotton. Flannel is usually loosely woven in plain weave or sometimes in 2/2 or 2/1 twill weave structure. The weft yarns are usually thicker than the warp yarns and they are given a low twist to facilitate the nap finish.

The fabric is lighly milled and raised during finishing, on one or both sides. Particularly when made from top-quality wool, flannel has excellent tailorability and is therefore widely used. It is soft, warm and elastic, drapes well and does not fray. Flannel originated in Wales, and the name derives from Welsh term (gwlanan/ in welsh for wool). Other fabrics similar to flannel include blazer cloth , cadet cloth, domet, kasha, melton, molleton and wincey. -Angola flannel; French flannel; Grey flannel; Outing flannel; Salisbury flannel; Shaker flannel; Suede flannel; West of England flannel; Worsted flannel; Zephyr flannel: FLEECE FABRIC-a soft, warm fabric with lofty, fibrous napped surface and good insulating properties. Fleece fabrics were originally made in imitation of animal fleece, a fleece being a complete hair coat shorn in a single piece from a live animal (e.g. a sheep or goat).

Nowadays there are many different types of fleece fabric, which may be warp-knitted, weft-knitted or woven using many different types of natural or man-made fibres. Fleece fabrics are either made in imitation of all kinds of real animal fleeces, or they may have distinctive characteristics of their own. Fleece fabrics are warm and comfortable to wear, but they are prone to pilling and, with the lower qualities, the nap will wear away quite quickly. Fleece fabrics are produced in a wide variety of thicknesses and weights. The spaces between the fibres in the raised surface of the fabric trap air, giving the fabric its characteristic warm handle. Fleece fabric may be made from cotton, cotton blends, wool, nylon, polyester, acrylic and modacrylic. Warp-knitted fleece fabrics are commonly made with continuous filament microfiber yarns and are knitted on two- or three bar tricot machines. After construction, they are heavily brushed, on either one or both sides. END USES: coats, jackets, waistcoats, insulating linings, sweatshirts, trucksuits, hats, gloves, scarves and toys.

FLOCKED FABRIC-a fabric in which a velvet-like relief effect is produced on a base fabric by printing it with adhesive and applying finely cut fibre fragments called `Flock` to this surface. The whole of the fabric may be coated with adhesive to produce an all-over flocked fabric or the adhesive may be printed onto the fabric in localized areas only. The fibres will adhere only to the printed areas, and thus a flocked pattern will be produced. Flocked fabric is made in imitation of pile fabric. The flock is made by cutting or grinding fibres into small fragments, usually from 0.5mm to 0.3mm long. It may be the same colour as the base fabric or a contrasting colour. END USES: evening dresses, dresses, blouses, blankets, curtains, wall covering, carpets, upholstery fabrics, toys, shoes and hats. FRIEZE-a thick, heavyweight woven overcoating fabric that is made from wool. It is very durable, waterproof fabric that has a rough appearance and handle. Frieze was woven in Ireland as far back as the 14th century, although it may have been of Franch origin.

A similar fabric woven in England and mentioned in Chaucer was called `Falding` while the equivalent Scottish fabric was called `Kelt` there fabrics are not known today. Frieze is a similar fabric to kersey and melton. END USES: overcoats, jackets. KASHA-a woven fabric that was originally an extremely soft, luxurious fabric made from vicuna hair. Since vince vicuna is such an expensive fibre of limited availability, kasha is nowadays usually made either from very fine wool (typically merino) or from a blend of cashmere and wool. It is a type of flannel fabric. Kasha is a woven in twill weaveand given soft nap finish on the face side. In the traditional fabric the weft yarns produced a slightly streaky effect, since they were composed of the varying natural tones of the animal fibre. Kasha is a similar fabric to cashmere cloth and pashmina. END USES: dresses, suits and jackets. KERSEY-a soft, thick and heavy woven fabric made from wool that is fulled and felted during finishing; this compacts it and prevents fraying. It has a short nap that is very lustrous.

Most kersey fabrics are coating fabrics, although finer qualities are also made. kersey is a traditional all-wool fabric woven using strong Cheviot or cross-bred wool (small amounts of man-made fibres are sometimes also included). The fabric is usually woven either in a 2/2 twill weave or a diagonal rib structure. END USES: overcoats, military uniforms, dresses, men`s suits and trousers. MELANGE FABRIC-any fabric, knitted or woven, that has been constructed with multicoloured melange yarns. The term `Melange` is French for `mixture`. Melange fabric are coloured at the fibre stage. Melange yarns are made by colour-printing the fibres while they are in combed sliver or tops form. Bands of thickened dye paste are printed at intervals across the fibre slubbings by a process called `Vigoureux printing` or `Melange printing` after steaming and washing, the printed fibres are subsequently spun into yarn. The yarns may be composed of any number of contrasting colours that, when knitted or woven into fabrics, will produce subtle multicoloured effects.

Many tweed fabrics, such as Shetland tweed, are melange fabrics. END USES: all kinds of fashion and furnishing products. MELANGE LUSTRE FABRIC-a woven fabric made from wool (usually worsted) or fine cashmere yarns; it is woven with a lustrous Melange weft yarn, producing a subtle mixed colour effect. Melange lustre fabric belongs to the group of fabrics known as `Bradford lustre fabric`. END USES: Lightweight suiting fabrics. MELROSE- a woven fabric made with a silk warp and a wool weft and woven in a double twill weave. It was first woven in Melrose, Scotland, in the 18th century. MELTON – a thick, firm, heavy woven fabric that is traditionally made in wool. It is given a special finish that makes it into a felted fabric. It therefore has a characteristic dull, felt like appearance, with a short, dense, non-directional nap. Some Melton fabrics, especially the heavyweight qualities, are some times also woven as double cloth fabrics. END USES: coats, military uniforms, jackets, horse-riding jackets.

MERINO FABRIC– a general term for a range of light – to medium-weight, good-quality woven fabrics that are made from fine merino wool. Merino wool comes from the merino breed of sheep; it originated in Spane and is noted for its fineness and whiteness. Merino wool in tops, yarn and fabric form is some times also called `Botany wool`. Merino fabric may be made in a variety of different weights and qualities, but two classic merino fabrics are as follows: -A plain-black worsted fabric, made from fine merino wool yarns. This fabric was developed in England in the 1820 s. -French merino, a fabric made using fine botany wool yarns in both the warp and the weft. It is an example of a `Reclining twill` fabric. END USES: men`s and women`s suiting fabrics, dress fabric, blouses, shawls and scarves. MICROFIBRE FABRIC- a general term for a woven, knitted or nonwoven fabric that is made using microfibers. Microfibers are very fine man-made fibres or filaments that have a linear density.

Because the fibre are so fine, they produce a fabric that is characteristically very strong but extremely fine and light in weight. Microfiber fabrics usually have a very smooth, soft handle and good drape. They are used for a wide variety of end uses that require strong, light-weight fabrics. Any man-made fibre may be produced as a microfiber, including viscose, acetate, polyester, nylon and acrylic. They are therefore often used in showerproof rainwear garments. END USES: raincoats, jackets, hiking equipment, casual wear, hats, bags and luggage. MOHAIR FABRIC– a general term for any fabric, woven, knitted or nonwoven, that has been constructed, either in whole or in part, with mohair. Mohair is a natural animal fibre that comes from the angora goat (capra hircus aegagrus). It is classed as a speciality hair fibre. Fabric made from 100% mohair. END USES: scarves, jackets, coats, cardigans. MOLLETON- a heavy, reversible woven fabric that is given a felt-like finish. It is a type of flannel fabric that has a nap on both sides.

Molleton was originally made entirely from wool, but now it is also made from wool blended with man-made fibres. The fabric may be woven in 2/2 twill or a plain weave structure. END USES: dressing gowns, jackets and coats. NONWOVEN FABRIC – a fabric that is formed directly from the rather than being constructed from yarns as woven, knitted, knotted and lace fabrics are. Nonwoven fabrics are typically stiff fabrics with little or no drape. They are usually less strong than constructed fabrics, but they do not stretch or fray and may be designed for specific end uses. Nonwoven fabrics may be made from any fibre, including natural and man-made fibres, staple fibres and continuous filament fibres. Continuous man-made fibres may be `spunbonded` together during their manufacture to make nonwoven fabric; however, most nonwoven fabrics are formed from preformed fibres. The fibres are normally laid in loose web (or batt) and then bonded or interlocked together. This may be achieved in several different ways. – Mechanical interlocking by needle-punching (needling) is one method.

Fine barber needles are punched in and out of a fibre web until the fibres become entangled. Nonwoven blankets and carpets are made by this method, as are some waddings and some very soft nonwoven imitation suede fabrics that have microfibers on their surface. – Mechanical interlocking by high-pressure jets of water (fluid jet entanglement) is another method. – Adhesives or chemicals may be used (adhesive bonding; chemical bonding) – Heat (thermal bonding) may be used. Synthetic fibres are often thermally bonded together, using heat to melt the surface of the fibre and pressure to fuse the fibres together where they overlap. Examples of fibres webs bonded by this method include Tyvek nylon and polyester interlinings, household cleaning cloths and tablecloths. – Stitching fibres together (stich bonding) is another method. A web of fibres (often multifilament man-made fibres) is interlocked together by the stitches of a special Malimo machine. Malimo fabrics are examples of fabrics made by this method. Nonwoven fabrics: Alcantara, Bark cloth, Felt, Interlining, Malimo, Net, Tyvek.

POODLE CLOTH – is normally constructed using a special looped yarn like a bucle yarn, or by forming an ordinary yarn into a loop pile structure. The looped yarn is firmly constructed into a base fabric, which may be woven or knitted. END USES: overcoats, jackets, collars, hats and bags. PRINCE OF WALES CHECK – a woven fabric that is traditionally made in wool in a distinctive check pattern. It is a district check fabric and originated in Scotland. The pattern is made with a colour and weave effect, which is created by combining a 2/2 twill weave structure with yarn-dyed stripes of alternating dark and light colours in both the warp and the weft. A fine overcheck is laid over the top of this. Prince of Wales check is woven in a variety of weights, ranging from light suiting weights to heavy overcoating weights. It is sometimes mistaken for Glen Urquhart check; they are exactly the same, except that the Prince of Wales check has a fine outline overcheck.

The Prince of Wales check was originally woven for Edward VII of England when he was Prince of Wales; however, when Edward VIII (later Duke of Windsor) became Prince of Wales in the early 20th century, he favoured a black and white Glen Urquhart check fabric. This has led to much confusion between the two fabrics. Today it is generally agreed that a Prince of Wales check is the same as a Glen Urquhart check, but with a fine overcheck. Prince of Wales check is usually woven with either wool or worsted wool yarns in 2/2 twill weave structure. END USES: men`s and women`s suits, jackets, trousers, coats, caps and hats. RECYCLED TEXTILES – a general term for any textiles made by recycling discarded textile products. An enormous amount of textile products, clothing in particular, is discarded. Some of this is collected and sorted for reuse; some items are redistributed and sold as second-hand clothing; and some items are sent to recycling or `Flocking` mills for the fibres to be reclaimed and recycled into new products. Textile made from both natural and man-made fibres can be reclaimed and recycled.

Clothing and textiles made from natural fibres have been recycled for many years. Items sold to the specialist recycling mills are first graded according to fibre type and colour. Wool fabrics are then shredded into fibrous material. `Shoddy` is the term for the waste fibres reclaimed from knitted or loosely woven fabrics. `Mungo` is the term for the waste fibres reclaimed from hard-woven fabrics, milled fabrics or felt. SAXONY– a soft woven fabric made with good-quality woollen or worsted yarns. The term refers to the quality of the fabric rather than to its construction. It has a similar look to tweed, but it is softer. Saxony is known for being a good-quality, hard-wearing woollen fabric. The name comes from the province of Saxony in northern Germany, where this fabric was originally woven from local wool for use as overcoats. END USES: suits, jackets, coats, caps and hats. SHARKSKIN – a term used for three different types of fabric. – A high-quality, medium-weight woven fabric made with worsted yarns.

It is very smooth and fine in texture and very hard-wearing, and it is used as a lightweight summer suiting fabric. – A lightweight, crisp and not very durable fabric, woven using acetate, viscose, triacetate or something cotton yarns. It is used mainly for women`s wear and sportswear. – A warp-knitted sharkskin fabric – The traditional worsted sharkskin is woven with worsted yarns, usually in a very fine, balanced 2/2 twill weave construction. SHATUSH – a fabric that is hand-woven from the hair of the wild cashmere goat (capra aegagrus), which is found in Kashmir and on the upper slopes of the Himalayas. This type of cashmere fibre is classed as a speciality hair fibre; since its supply is so limited, demand has made shatush one of the rarest, finest and most expensive fabrics in the world. In India, shatush is the most prized of luxury fabrics. END USES: shawls, scarves. SHETLAND TWEED – a tweed fabric woven with special Shetland wool yarns, dyed at the fibre stage to give a characteristic soft, shaded colour effect.

It was originally produced on the Shetland Islands, off the north-eastern coast of Scotland. The yarns for Shetland tweed were traditionally obtained by plucking, rather than shearing, the wool from Shetland sheep. This provided a much softer wool than is generally used in most other tweed fabrics and softness is one of its main characteristics. The fabric is typically fibre dyed in soft browns, greys and greens, which reflect the colours of the local landscape. The fabric are carefully blended into yarns to produce the characteristic mixture or `Melange` colour tones. The brown shade, often given the Shetland name of `moorit`, is very common. The fabric is traditionally woven in 2/2 twill weave structure. END USES: sport jackets, men`s and women`s suits. SUITING FABRICS – a general term for fabrics used to make both men`s and women`s suits. However, the term is used in particular for men`s traditional woven suiting fabrics that are employed in tailoring. Most are hard-wearing, medium-weight fabrics within the range of 240-400g/m2.

Most traditional men`s suiting fabrics are woven fabrics, constructed using fine wool or worsted yarns in simple weave structures such as plain, twill or herringbone. Speciality hair fibre such as cashmere, vicuna or mohair are sometimes added for a luxurious handle, and man-made fibres are sometimes included for extra strength. The fabrics are often dark in colour; they may be a single colour throughout, or colour-woven with stripes, checks or small dobby patterns. The quality of the fabric is determined by the quality of wool used to make it, the highest quality being merino wool, which produced in many parts of the world but most notable in Australia. The fineness or diameter of wool fibres is measured by their micron value. The lower the micron value, the finer the fibre. Finer fibres result in finer yarns, which are used to produce the finest, highest-quality suiting fabrics; these have a soft handle, high lustre and excellent drape. END USES: men`s and women`s suits, jackets, trousers and skirts. TARTAN – a medium-weight colour-woven fabric that is traditionally woven with wool yarns in a wide variety of both simple and elaborate traditional check patterns.

Tartan is the fabric from which Scottish kilts are made. There are many different tartan check patterns, which were originally developed by the Scottish clans (communities of interrelated families) in the Highlands of Scotland, each clan having its own distinct design. Many clans also have more than one tartan, with each traditionally used for different occasions (e.g. hunting, mourning, or `dress` tartan, for special occasions). Today there are 3,700 different clan tartans, each design being registered with the Scottish Tartans Authority. Traditional tartan fabric are woven with yarn-dyed woollen or worsted yarns in a 2/2 twill weave construction. The fabric is woven as square cloth (i.e. with the same number of yarns per centimetre in both warp and weft) bold stripes of coloured yarns are arranged in the same sequence in both the warp and the weft and, when woven, the colours combine with one another to form solid blocks of colour and blocks of mixed colours. Most tartan designs are characterized by the reversing of specific coloured checks along both a vertical and horizontal axis, with the resulting pattern repeated across the fabric.

Tartan fabrics were originally made from local Scottish wool dyed with vegetable dyes. Nowadays the fabrics are dyed with synthetic dyestuffs, and the colours are much stronger and brighter. Characteristically, the yarns are dyed in solid colours, unlike the mixed colour tones of the Harris and Shetland tweeds. END USES: kilts, trousers, shawls, pleated skirts, pinafore dresses, coats, jackets, shirts, suits, hats, scarves, dressing gowns, blankets, curtains, upholstery, bags, carpets and bagpipes. TIE FABRIC – a general term for any fabric used to make men`s neckties. Tie fabrics are usually medium-weight fabrics. Most tie fabrics have traditionally been made from silk and, to a lesser extent, from wool or cotton. TWEED – originally the name of rough, hairy, heavyweight woven fabric that was made from wool and used as outerwear; now a term used for a wide range of rough-textured, medium-to heavyweight woollen fabrics, most of which have characteristic `melange` or mixed colour effects as opposed to solid colourings.

For example, different-coloured fibres may be blended together during the spinning process, and / or marl yarns (two-fold yarns composed of two singles yarns dyed in contrasting colours) may be used. This produces fabrics with tonal or multicoloured effects. Other tweed fabrics may be solid in colour, striped or checked, or they may combine various colour and weave effects. Tweed fabrics are traditionally very strong, warm and hard-wearing woollen fabrics, but their rough surface texture means that they usually need to be lined in order to be worn next to the skin. Tweed fabric were originally handmade woollen fabrics, woven on the banks of the river Tweed in the Borders region between England and Scotland. It is said that the name came into use through the misunderstanding of a London cloth merchant an about 1840: a consignment of fabric from the area, woven in a twill weave, was labelled `Tweel` (the Scottish term for twills), and this was misread as `Tweed`. The fabrics have been known as tweeds ever since.

Nowadays tweed fabrics are almost all woven on industrial power looms, with the notable exception of Harris tweed, which is still woven by hand. Tweed fabrics are traditionally made from carded virgin wool, much of which is Cheviot (from the Cheviot breed of sheep) or New Zealand cross-bred. Both are noted for their strength, durability and rather rough handle. Cheaper tweed fabrics are woven using recycled or cheaper wool qualities. If man-made fibres are included, or if a tweed fabric is imitated using man-made fibres, this should be stated. Tweed fabrics may be woven in a variety of different weave structures, including plain, twills and herringbones; however, 2/2 twill is probably the most traditional. Tweed fabrics are often milled during finishing in order to close up the fabric and increase the warmth.

There are many different types of tweed fabrics: Bannockburn, Cheviot, Donegal, Harris tweed, Shetland tweed, Thornproof tweed, Cambrian tweed, Furnishing tweed, Gamekeeper tweed, Heather tweed, Irish tweed, Jacob tweed, Knickerbocker tweed, Lovat tweed, Novelty tweed, Pepper and salt tweed, West of England tweed, Scottish tweed. Scottish Tweed – (Scotch tweed) a general term for many different types of woollen tweed fabric originating in Scotland. Characteristically, the fibres or yarns are dyed to give mixed colour effects, unlike the solid colours of Scottish tartan fabrics. For example, different colour colour fibres may be blended together during the spinning process (fibre dyed) and / or marl yarns (two-fold yarns composed of two singles yarns dyed in contrasting colours) may be used. This produced fabrics with soft tonal or multicoloured effects.

The best-known Scottish tweed are Bannockburn, Cheviot, Galashiels or Gala (from the Scottish town of Galashiels), Harris tweed, heather tweed and Shetland tweed. Other Scottish tweeds include Bute, Craiganputtach and Glengarry. END USES: overcoats, suits, jackets, trousers, hats, caps, upholstery and occasionally curtains. WEST OF ENGLAND FABRICS – a general term for a range of very high-quality woven fabrics made from wool, whose main characteristic is their very soft, supple handle. The term therefore refers more to the quality and handle of fabric than to a particular fabric type. Included in this group are beaver cloth, blanket cloth, doeskin, West of England flannel and West of England tweed. END USES: men`s suits, trousers, jackets and coats. WHIPCORD – a densely woven fabric that is constructed in a prominent, steep twill weave. Traditionally it is woven using bulky, closely sett woollen or worsted yarns. Characteristically, this forms pronounced raised, ribbed twill diagonals that look like the cord of a whip.

Whipcord is a medium-to heavyweight fabric that is very hard-wearing and durable. Although it is traditionally woven with highly twisted woollen or worsted yarns, whipcord is also woven with cotton, man-made fibres or natural / man-made fibre mixes. END USES: trousers, riding breeches, overcoats, suits, uniforms and upholstery. (Janet Wilson `Classic and Modern fabrics` the complete illustrated sourcebook. Thames & Hudson) SMART TEXTILE Smart textile – `High-tech` textiles that have been integrated with electronics or computer technology to make them electrically active, and that usually adapt to, or react with, their surrounding environment automatically. They usually have a specific function or feature incorporated into them. Smart textiles have evolved from technology used in various `Electronic textiles` or `E`-textiles`. The first electronic textiles were electric blankets produced over eighty years ago. Further developments in electronic textiles have included conductive textiles developed for a variety of `passive` functions, such as static dissipation, electromagnetic interference and microwave attenuation. Conductivity in textiles may be produced in both woven and knitted fabric constructions by incorporating very fine metal wires into the structure. Various metals have been used, including steel, nickel and silver.

Thin, flexible conductive yarns have also been developed. Semi-conductive fabrics are also made by impregnating woven, knitted or nonwoven fabrics with carbon or metal powders, which are also conductive materials. There are also conductive printing inks and metal content surface coatings that will give fabrics conductive properties. Smart textiles take this technology further by making conductive textiles interactive with their environment. Smart textiles are able to sense and react to various external factors, such as temperature, pressure or electrical fluctuations, and to readjust themselves accordingly. This has led to the development of various `Wearable electronics`, but these can be very expensive. Because the technology is still so new and specialized, smart textiles have so far been developed mainly for specific market areas, some examples of which are: Thermoregulation ( temperature control); Healthcare and disability ; Communication and entertainment systems; END USES: sportswear, outerwear, military textiles, medical textiles, thermoregulated textiles, furnishing and footwear, children`s novelty items, safety apparel. Share this:

Question: What name is given to the type of wallpaper produced by applying wool fibres to the paper to give a velvety surface?
Answer: FLOCK