Behind the French Menu: Moutarde – Mustard and Dijon Mustard in French cuisine. Moutarde – Mustard and Dijon Mustard in French cuisine. from Photograph courtesy of RC Designer Travel through France from April through June and you will see fields covered in yellow flowers. You may think, as I originally did, that the yellow was mustard flowers, but ask a few questions and you quickly discover that most of the fields are covered with Rape Seed flowers, Colza in French. Mustard Seeds and Rape Seeds are very close family members and their flowers look practically the same. The mustard seed produces mustard oil and the Rape Seed produces cooking oil; sold in North America and the UK under the name Canola, Canola oil provides about 30% of the Western world’s cooking oil. Trying to sell Rape Seed oil under the same name would be a marketing manager’s nightmare! Additionally, I discovered that France imports nearly 90% of the mustard seeds used for the French production of mustard from Canada; the local mustard seeds are too expensive. Time to blame the Romans again. The earliest cookbook authors with published recipes for mustard were the Greeks and the Romans.

They have left us recipes on how to use mustard seeds including some that are not too different to those we use today; the Romans also gave us the origin for the name mustard. To make mustard the Romans mixed newly pressed grape juice, called mustum, with spices that included mustard seeds. This hot sauce was called mustum ardens, mustarden for short, and from this came the name mustard. N.B. Still today freshly pressed grape juice is called must. The Romans and Greeks loved their sauces and while the most traditional Roman sauce was fish based and called Garum there were types of Garum that did include mustard. Other sauces, including varieties of mustard, were also on the table when the Greeks and Romans dined. When the Romans colonized present day Spain in 261 BCE, they quickly realized that to be comfortable they had to import a great deal from home. They brought trees, vegetables, grape vines, snail farming, aqueducts, roads and recipes for sauces including mustard. When 100 years later the Romans colonized France they already knew they had to bring all the requirements for a home away from home. More trees, plants, vegetables, amphitheaters, and sauces, etc. Mustard and Dijon.

The sauce called mustard may not have been created in France; however, as early as the 8th century, Emperor Charlemagne is said to have ordered the planting of mustard seeds around monasteries in France and so we know that mustard was part of early French cuisine. A few hundred years later the city of Dijon was recognized as the go-to place for the best mustard in France and from the 14th century, Dijon and its manufacture of mustard were governed by a decree; no second rate ingredients were permitted in the mustard, that was a criminal act. In 1634 the Guild of Mustard Makers of Dijon had articles of association drawn up to regulate their craft; that ensured high standards and by the way kept competitors out. Finally, in the 18th-century improvements in the milling of mustard seed were patented and the creation of the mustard known as Moutarde de Dijon, the Mustard of Dijon was well established. Moutarde de Dijon, Dijon Mustard, is no longer made in Dijon!

Today, most diners and purchasers of “Dijon Mustard” do not realize that along with the many other different types of mustard with the name Dijon on the label none are made in Dijon. Over the last 70 years, economics have pushed mustard out of Dijon. Some mustards have left Dijon and almost completely left France as well, and that includes France’s famous “Grey Poupon” mustard. Some Grey Poupon may still be made in France for the French market; however, its place of manufacture is well hidden and I found none in any supermarkets. How one modern Dijon mustard is made. Dijon is the capital of Burgundy and a center for Burgundian cuisine and wines. During a week that a colleague and I were working in Burgundy with a long weekend approaching, we decided to spend our time in Dijon. There we could enjoy Burgundy's cuisine and wines and try to find out what happened to the city’s mustard.

On our first evening in Dijon, in a small but excellent restaurant, we found a well-informed Maitre D’ who politely listened to our questions about Dijon mustard and let us know that he spoke better English than we did French. Speaking better English than our French was not particularly difficult!. However, realizing that we were serious mustardiers he finally introduced us to the chef. The chef, a Dijon native gave us a great deal of background to Dijon’s mustard history and made it clear that in his restaurant all the mustard is made by him. The chef confirmed that there are no longer any large or medium-sized mustard manufacturers in Dijon anymore, just a few small family sized artisan producers. The nearest large scale factory is in the wine-centric town of Beaune 46 km (29 miles) away from Lyon. The secret of good mustard. The secret to good mustard depends on the freshness of the grinding. Our chef grinds the mustard seeds himself, at most three or four days before he intends to use the mustard. After mixing two different mustard seeds, (the proportions he did not disclose) he adds fruit vinegar , white wine, sugar and a little salt.

He lets his creation mix its flavors in the refrigerator for a day or two and when ready to use he achieves the final taste he desires by adding a little more of one or more of the ingredients above. The final taste will depend on the dish the mustard will accompany. Since this chef doesn’t sell his mustard outside of his restaurant, its pale brown color was of no importance. Most mustard contains the herb turmeric for its yellow color. Since turmeric adds little to the taste, this chef omits it. Photograph courtesy of JaBB There are many commercial mustards available in France, both those made in France and also those imported as part of the borderless European Union. However, there are still a number of traditional mustard manufacturers in France, all claiming ancient recipes and I have included a few of them here. Alsace Moutarde d’Alsace - A sweet mustard, honey is added, but despite the honey, this is still a spicy mustard. This Alsatian mustard is made with mustard seeds along with Gewurztraminer vinegar and spices. Traditional Alsatian mustard nearly disappeared from the menus in local restaurants but is now back in fashion. Then and now it is used with traditional Alsatian dishes.

Jarret de Porc Grillé au Miel de Fleurs et Moutarde d'Alsace - The shin or leg in the UK and the shank in the USA; only the meat from this cut is used, and here it is grilled. Here the honey used is “ honey from a thousand flowers ” along with the Alsatian Mustard. Rognons de Cochon à la Moutarde d'Alsace - Pig’s kidneys braised with Alsatian mustard. Bordeaux Moutarde de Bordeaux - A traditional mustard from the area of Bordeaux . This is the mustard that may be served alongside your steak when you dine in a Bordeaux restaurant. Moutarde de Bordeaux is not too strong when compared with other French mustards and includes Bordeaux wine vinegar and tarragon. N.B. French mustards are traditionally stronger than those in North America and milder than those in the UK. Le Filet Mignon de Porc à la Moutarde de Bordeaux Gratin de Pommes de Terre. A cut from a pork fillet prepared with the Bordeaux Mustard and served with browned mashed potatoes. N.B. A filet mignon on a French menu is usually pork, not beef.

A cut from a beef fillet will usually be called a filet de bœuf. Andouillette AAAAA grillée, Sauce Moutarde de Bordeaux – Andouillette Sausages AAAAA grilled and served with Bordeaux Mustard. Charroux Moutarde de Charroux – A traditional mustard from the village of Charroux in the department of Allier in the region of the Auvergne. Charroux’s mustard has been reintroduced and is made in a village with less than 400 hundred inhabitants. The mustard is made with white wine and wine vinegar and is considered, by the producers, to be the traditional mustard of the Bourbonnais. (The Bourbons were the royal family behind the kings of France until 1848 when the last French king abdicated). The single company that manufactures this mustard claims that their recipe was created 900 years ago by Monks from the Bourbonnais region. The factory notes that their mustard seeds and their shells are manually ground, made with a special vinegar and St Pourcam AOC wine. They also produce a sweeter mustard made with red grape juice.

Photograph courtesy of Ellen Bouckaert Ballottin de Volaille Farci à la Moutarde de Charroux – A ballottin of poultry will have had all the bones removed before it is cooked. Then it will be formed into a stuffed roll before braising or roasting and in this case stuffed with Charroux mustard Vinaigrette de Moutarde de Charroux – A vinaigrette sauce made with the Charroux mustard. Dijon Moutarde de Dijon – The real Dijon mustard. The Romans brought mustard seeds to Burgundy and Dijon was strategically located along their major trade routes. By the Middle Ages, yellow mustard plants covered the fields outside Dijon from April through June. Dijon is a city with over 150,000 inhabitants. Nevertheless, if you are visiting, you will not notice its size. The center of the town is walkable, and the center still has many houses from the Middle Ages.

There are now tens; if not hundreds, of French mustards using the name Dijon, few are made in or near Dijon; some are very mild and others are scorching, but the traditional mustards had been just two. The old-style was a coarse-grained, mild mustard, today mostly called in French à l'ancienne; and the Dijon-style, a creamy, spicier mustard. In 1937 Moutarde de Dijon was granted an AOC, which limits the way and the place where the mustard is made. Despite that 1937 honor, I failed to find any company that today makes a Moutarde de Dijon AOC. Also, to my surprise, I discovered that over 90% of all brown mustard seeds used in French mustards are imported from Canada, how the world turns? Choose your Moutard de Dijon. Visiting the city of Dijon. If you want to see the center of Dijon, then follow the chouette, the little owl, that is the city of Dijon’s symbol.

The owl is inset in the town center’s pavement pointing to the directions for the city’s walking tour. The tour starts just outside the Tourism Information Center on Place Darcy, in the heart of Dijon. With the booklet from the Tourism Information Center, you will have covered the center of Dijon in just about one hour. Then you may choose the places of interest, museums, churches, etc., that you wish to visit. For more information see the English-language website of the Dijon Tourist Information Office at: ­­ Dijon mustard and Dijon dishes on French menus: Le Rognon de Veau Dijonnais – Veal kidneys served with a Dijon mustard sauce. Vinaigrette Dijonnaise – Vinaigrette, the most well-known of all French sauces or salad dressings. This is the original and traditional French dressing. It is olive oil, vinegar , Dijon mustard, garlic and herbs. Photograph courtesy of Kim Demi Coquelet à la Dijonnaise- Coquelet – Half a 4 – 6 weeks’ old oven roasted cockerel.

When menus note a demi coquelet, that is half a minuscule cockerel, and it may be enough for a very light lunch or an entrée, but if this is the main course you will leave hungry. Dos de Cabillaud Dijonnaise – A thick cut of fresh co d served with a Dijon mustard sauce. A dish like this is usually made with a mustard cream sauce and baked in the oven. Emincé de Quasi de Veau Dijonnaise - A quasi is a small tender roast from a cut from the leg and saddle from veal, and also lamb. When this is veal, then it will usually be prepared as a roast, and would be enough for five or six diners. This is a uniquely French cut that seems to be ignored outside France. Maybe the French influenced parts of Canada have butchers who take the time to prepare this cut. In this menu listing the roast is flavored with Dijon mustard. Sauce Rémoulade - A mayonnaise and mustard sauce made with cooked egg yolks, oil and mustard, parsley and sometimes with added cornichons.

Sauce rémoulade will be served with many dishes and is a favorite when served with a mashed céleri-rave, celeriac. Râble de Lapin, Crème de Moutarde de Dijon et Légumes du Soleil – The saddle, the center of the back and the meatiest part of a rabbit. Here it is served with a cream of Dijon mustard sauce accompanied by the freshest new vegetables. A rabbit’s saddle is usually offered roasted and stuffed. In France rabbits and hares are farm raised, they are very much part of French cuisine. Maille Maille is a large manufacturer and I have included it here as under different names including Amora it produces a very wide range of products such as vinegar, mustards, mayonnaise, oils, pickles, spices, pottery, etc. Maille is today owned by Unilever. In 2009, Maille/Unilever closed its historic factory in Dijon, and the production of mustard and pickles was transferred to a new plant in Chevigny-Saint-Sauveur in the Côte-d'Or department of Burgundy.

Maille sold the Grey Poupon label in 1970 and today Kraft Foods in the USA produces Grey Poupon complete with the colors of the French flag on the lid. Meaux Moutarde de Meaux - The mustard of Meaux is now made by only one company, Pommery. This unique mustard’s taste is created by mixing the mustard seeds with water rather than crushing them. The company, founded in 1949 produces a whole range of mustards and other products. The town of Meaux is even more, famous for its Brie AOC cheese . Meaux is in the department of Seine-et-Marne in the Ile de France, about 40 km from Paris. You can read more about the Moutarde de Meaux on their English Language website: Photograph courtesy of Stijn Nieuwendijk Truite Fumée sur Salade d'Ėpinards, Moutarde de Meaux et Estragon – Smoked trout served with a spinach salad accompanied by the Mustard of Meaux with added tarragon.

Côte de Veau a la Moutarde de Meaux, Fenouil et Potiron – A veal chop prepared with the Meaux Mustard and served with fennel and pumpkin. Reims Moutarde de Reims - A pungent mustard from the largest city in the region of Champagne-Ardennes where they produce all of France’s Champagne. As a bi-product of Champagne, they also produce Reims vinegar and the only vinegar that I know from Reims is the Reims Champagne Vinegar. This mustard is made with brown mustard seeds, champagne vinegar and herbs. Filet de Lisette Mariné à la Moutarde de Reims – A young mackerel fileted and marinated in Reims mustard. Magret de Canard au Miel et à la Moutarde de Reims - Duck breast cooked in honey and the Reims mustard. Brive Moutarde Violette de Brive – The purple mustard of Brive. The town of Brive, correctly called Brive la Gaillarde, is in the department of Corrèze in the region of Limousin. According to the manufacturer, it is made with few changes to its 500-year-old recipe.

This mustard is made with fresh grape juice and the skin and seeds from the grape along with mustard seeds, water, wine and vinegar. The resulting mustard is violet without any artificial coloring though the jar does note that it contain sulfites as a preservative. The company making this mustard has as its premises a two-hundred-years-old distillery. Rognon de Veau à la Moutarde Violette de Brive – Veal kidneys prepared with the Violette de Brive Mustard. Pavé de Bœuf Angus, Moutarde Violette de Brive - A thick cut of Angus beef prepared with the Violette de Brive Mustard. Moutarde de Normandie - A strong mustard made with Normandy’s Cider vinegar. Raviolis d' Escargot au Poireaux et Moutarde de Normandie – Ravioli of snails and leeks flavored with the Normandy mustard. Escalope de Saumon Rôtie, Lentilles au Lard Fumé, Crème Fraîche , moutarde de Normandie. A scallop of roasted salmon served on lentils prepared with smoked bacon, crème fraiche and Norman Mustard.

While it was the Romans, who imported mustard to France the origins of most of the mustard plants were in the South and North Mediterranean. It would have been the Phoenicians, the earliest sea-based wholesalers who brought mustard to the ancient Egyptians. The Egyptians used mustard as an antiseptic and in embalming. From Egypt mustard would have reached India and there it became an essential spice in many of India’s different cuisines. Later, in France, the monks realized that mustard, like honey, had a high viscosity and is naturally antibacterial. A mustard paste could be used to provide a protective cover and prevent infection on wounds. Plain mustard paste, like plain honey, does not need to be refrigerated to be stored. A real history of French mustard requires its own book. In this post and I have noted those mustards I found interesting along with a popular mass-produced mustard for comparison. I apologize to the manufacturers and artisan producers of many other French mustards that I have not had the time or space to include. There are no longer any special mustard exhibitions in Dijon. Nevertheless, Dijon remains on the culinary map and annually hosts the Foire Internationale et Gastronomique de Dijon.

The International Gastronomic Fair of Dijon. This is one of the ten largest food exhibitions in France. It is a fair for professionals, though amateurs may visit. There are hundreds of culinary products from all over the world on show and it is held every year over a 12 day period and its dates and times are on the fair’s French language website. The Bing and Google translate programs work well with this site. Crème de Cassis and Kir. Dijon is also well known for its crème de cassis, or blackcurrant liqueur, so important for the aperitif Kir and Kir Royale . This aperitif is named in honor of former mayor of Dijon Canon Félix Kir who earned his fame in the French underground in WWII. Kir is crème de cassis, the blackcurrant liquor, served with white wine; traditionally this white wine comes from the aligoté grape. Kir Royal sees the white wine replaced by Champagne or a sparkling Cremant. Since Dijon is also famous for this blackcurrant liquor, a la Dijonaise may have a different meaning on certain menus so read carefully. Douce and forte. N.B.

On nearly every jar of commercial mustard there will usually be two important words, douce and forte; douce means mild and forte means strong; remember them. There are, of course, various variations of these two terms. Despite that be careful, everyone’s idea of mild and strong is different. It is accepted that the mildest mustard is made for North American tastes followed by hotter mustards coming from France and the UK leading with the hottest mustards. The history of Grey Poupon. In 1860 a Dijon native named Maurice Grey created and patented a mustard shelling and grinding machine and for that he was awarded a Royal Appointment to the king of France. Then when Grey needed a much faster machine he formed a partnership in 1866 with Auguste Poupon, another Dijon, mustard manufacturer. Grey-Poupon was now the most successful mustard producer in Dijon. As the years passed and multi-national food producers came to France Grey Poupon was looked upon with interest. After many changes of ownership the original Grey Poupon, with a slightly lighter recipe, is now made in the USA by Kraft, and none or practically none is made in France.

Slow Travel France - Food and Menu Glossary, translations of French terms to English agneau (de lait): lamb (young-milk fed) aiglefin, ï¿½glefin: haddock aigre: sour aigrelette (sauce): a sour or tart sauce aiguillettes: thin slivers, usually of duck breast ail: garlic aile: wing of poultry or game bird aile et cuisse: white meat (aile), dark (cuisse), usually chicken aï¿½oli: garlicky blend of eggs and olive oil aligot: mashed potatoes with fresh Cantal cheese and garlic alose: shad alose ï¿½ l'oseille: shad or other fish in light hollandaise garnished with sorrel aloyau: loin area of beef alummettes: puff pastry strips, also fried matchstick potatoes amande: almond anchoiade: puree of anchovies, olive oil, vinegar anchois: anchovy andouillette: smaller chitterline (tripe) sausage aneth: dill ballotine: usually poultry, boned, stuffed, rolled banane: banana bar: fish, similar to bass Barbarie (can

ard de): breed of duck barbue: brill, fish related to turbot baron: hindquarters - lamb, rabbit, etc.

barquette: small pastry shaped like a boat basilic: basil basquaise: Basque-style, usually with ham or tomatoes or red peppers bavaroise: cold dessert, rich custard with cream and gelatin bavette: skirt steak beatilles: dish combining various organ meats bï¿½casse: woodchuck belon: prized, flat-shelled plate oyster Bercy : fish-stock-based sauce thickened with flour, butter, shallots, white wine berrichonne: garnish of braised cabbage, glazed baby onions, chestnuts, bacon betterave: beet beurre noisette: lightly browned butter biche: female deer bifteck: steak (can be tough) bigarade: orange sauce Billy Bi, Billy By: cream of mussel soup biscuits ï¿½ la cuillï¿½re: ladyfingers blanc (de poireau): white part of leeks blanc (de volaille): usually breast of chicken blanquette: veal, lamb, chicken, or seafood stew w/rich white sauce blette: Swiss chard bleu: bloody rare, usually for steak blinis: small pancakes boeuf ï¿½ la mode: beef marinated

 and braised in red wine w/carrots, mushrooms, onions boeuf au gros sel: boiled beef, with vegetables and coarse salt boissons (non) comprises: drinks (not) included bombe: molded, layered ice cream dessert bonne femme: home style, meat with bacon, potatoes, mushrooms, onions bonne femme (fish): with shallots, parsley, mushrooms, potatoes bonne femme (sauce): white wine sauce with shallots, mushrooms, lemon juice bordelaise: Bordeaux-style, also brown sauce of shallots, red wine, bone marrow bouchï¿½e: tiny mouthful, bite-size boudin: technically meat sausage, any sausage-shaped mixture boudin blanc: white sausage (veal, chicken, or pork) boudin noir: pork blood sausage bouillabaisse: Mediterranean fish soup bouillon: light soup or broth boulette: meatball or fishball bourdaloue: hot poached fruit, sometimes wrapped in pastry bourguignon(ne): Burgundy-style, often with wine, onions, mushrooms, bacon bouribut: spicy red wine duck stew bourride: fish stew braiser: to braise, cook meat by browning, then simmering brandade (de morue): warm gar

licky purï¿½e of salt cod, cream & sometimes mashed potatoes brebis (fromage de): sheep bretonne: in the style of Brittany, dish served with white beans bretonne (sauce): white wine sauce with carrots, leeks, celery brioche: buttery, egg-enriched yeast bread broche (ï¿½ la): spit-roasted brochet: pike brouillï¿½(e)(s): scrambled, usually eggs brulï¿½(e): literally, burned; dark caramelization brunoise: tiny diced vegetables bugnes: sweet fried doughnuts or fritters buisson: literally bush; presentation (classically, crayfish) bulot: large sea snail cabï¿½cou: small round goat cheese cabillaud: fresh cod Caen (ï¿½ la mode de): usually cooked in calvados and white wine or cider cafï¿½ (crï¿½me) (au lait): coffee (with cream) ( with hot milk) cafï¿½ Liï¿½geois: iced coffee served with whipped cream, sometimes ice cream cagouille: small snail cervelas: garlicky pork sausage, or seafood sausage

 cervelles: brains, of calf or lamb chair: fleshy portion of poultry or meat champï¿½tre: rustic, simple presentation champignon: mushroom (de bois) wild, (de Paris) cultivated, (sauvage) wild champignons ï¿½ la grecque: tiny mushrooms cooked with lemon, olive oil, spices chanterelle: pale, curly-capped wild mushroom chantilly: sweetened whipped cream chapon de mer: fish in the scorpion family charcuterie: cold cuts, sausages, terrines, pï¿½tï¿½s, also shop selling these chariot (de desserts): dessert cart charlotte: molded dessert with ladyfingers, custard, fruit compote; cold or hot charolais: light-colored cow that produces high-quality beef chartreuse: dish of braised partridge and cabbage; also a liqueur chasse: the hunt chasseur: sauce with white wine, shallots, mushrooms, tomatoes, herbs chï¿½taigne: chestnuts chaud-froid: cooked poultry dish served cold, usually covered with sauce, aspic chaudrï¿½e: fish stew, sometimes with potatoes chausson: filled pastry turnover,

 sweet or savory chemise (en): wrapped in pastry chevreuil: young deer chï¿½vre: goat cheese chicorï¿½e: curly endive chiffonnade: shredded, herbs and vegetables, usually green chinchard: type of fish choix (au): a choice, usually may choose from several offerings choron: Bï¿½arnaise sauce with tomatoes chou: cabbage chou vert: curly green savoy cabbage choucroute: sauerkraut; also dish of sauerkraut, sausages, bacon, pork, potatoes chou-fleur: cauliflower chous (pï¿½te ï¿½): creampuff (pastry) choux de Bruxelles: brussels sprouts ciboulette: chive cidre: cider, apple, or pear citron: lemon citron pressï¿½: fresh lemonade citron vert: lime citronnelle: lemon grass (oriental herb) citrouille: pumpkin, gourd civet: stew of game thickened with blood civet de liï¿½vre: jugged hare; stewed hare thickened with blood clafoutis: tart, made with crepe batter and fruit

 (usually black cherries) claires: oysters (sometimes put in beds and fattened up before market) clamart: garnish of peas clï¿½mentine: small tangerine, from Morocco or Spain cloute: studded with cochon (de lait): pig (suckling) cochonnaille: pork products, usually an assortment of sausages or pï¿½tï¿½s (1st course) cocotte: casserole or cooking pot coeur: heart compote: stewed fresh or dried fruit concassï¿½(e): coarsely chopped confit: duck, goose, or pork cooked & preserved in its own fat confit: also fruit or vegetables preserved in sugar, alcohol, or vinegar confiture: jam confiture de vieux garï¿½on: varied fresh fruits macerated in alcohol congeler: to freeze congre: eel or fish similar to eel contre-filet: sirloin taken above the loin, tied for roasting, braising, grilling convives (la totalitï¿½ des): all those gathered at a single table copeaux: shavings coq (au vin): mature rooster stewed in wine coque

: tiny mild-flavored clam-like shellfish coque (ï¿½ la): soft cooked egg, or anything served in a shell coquelet: young, male chicken coquille St Jacques: sea scallop corail: egg sac found in scallops, spiny lobster or crayfish corbeille (de fruits): basked (of fruit) coriandre: coriander cï¿½te d'agneau: lamb chop cï¿½te de boeuf: beef blade or rib steak cï¿½te de veau: veal chop cotelette: thin chop or cutlet cotriade: Brittany-style fish stew with butter, potatoes, onions, herbs cou d'oie (de canard): neck skin of goose, stuffed like a sausage couer de filet: thickest (and best) part of beef filet (usually chï¿½teaubriand steaks) coulis: puree or raw or cooked vegetables or fruit coullibiac : hot Russian pï¿½tï¿½, usually filled with salmon and covered with brioche coupe: cup; dessert served in goblet courge: squash or gourd couronne: ring or circle, usually of bread c

outeau: knife crapaudine: preparation of grilled poultry or game bird, backbone removed crï¿½cy: carrot garnish, or carrot-based dish crï¿½me chantilly: sweetened whipped cream crï¿½me fouettï¿½e: whipped cream crï¿½me patissiï¿½re : custard filling for pastries and caked crï¿½me plombiï¿½res: custard filled with fresh fruit and egg whites crï¿½pinette: small sausage patty wrapped in caul fat cresson: watercress crï¿½te de coq: cock's comb creuse: elongated, crinkle-shelled oyster crevette grise: tiny soft-fleshed shrimp that remains gray when cooked crevette rose: small firm fleshed shrimp that turns red when cooked criste-marine: edible algae croque-madame: toasted ham and cheese sandwich topped with an egg croque-monsieur: toasted ham and cheese sandwich croquette: ground meet, fish, fowl or vegetables bound with eggs or sauce croquettes: usually coated in crumbs and deep fried crottin (de chavignol): firm goat cheese croustade

: usually small, pastry-wrapped dish (e.g., filled with fruit) croute (en): in pastry croute de sel (en): in a salt crust cru(e): raw cruditï¿½s: raw vegetables crustaces: crustaceans cuillï¿½re (ï¿½ la): to be eaten with a spoon cuisse de poulet: chicken drumstick cuisson: cooking cuissot: haunch of veal, venison, or wild boar cuit(e): cooked cul: haunch or rear, usually of red meat cure-dent: toothpick dariole: usually a garnish in a cylindrical mold darne: a slice or steak from fish, often salmon dattes: dates daurade: dorade or sea bream, similar to porgy dï¿½cortiquï¿½(e): shelled or peeled dï¿½gustation: tasting or sampling dï¿½jeuner: lunch dï¿½lice: delight, usually used to describe a dessert demi-deuil: poached (usually chicken) with truffles inserted under skin.

Also could be sweetbreads with a truffled white sauce demi-glace: concentrated beef base dï¿½sossï¿½(e): boned diable: with a peppery (often mustard based) sauce dieppoise: dieppe style, white wine, mussels, shrimp, mushrooms, cream digestif: after-dinner drink - liqueur discretion (ï¿½ la): on menu usually refers to wine without limit, at customer's discretion dodine: cold, boned stuffed duck dos: back, also refers to meatiest portion of fish dos et ventre: back and front; both sides (usually fish) douceurs: sweets or desserts duglere: white, flour-based sauce with shallots, white wine, tomatoes, and parsley duxelles: chopped mushrooms and shallots sautï¿½ed in butter, mixed with cream eau du robinet: tap water ï¿½cailler: to scale fish, also an oyster opener or seller ï¿½chalotes: shallots ï¿½chine: spare ribs ï¿½crevisse: freshwater crayfish ï¿½ffiloche: frayed, thinly sliced ï¿½glefin, aigle

fin: haddock ï¿½mincï¿½: thin slice, usually of meat encornet: small squid endive: chicory or Belgian endive entrecï¿½te: beef rib steak entrecï¿½te mï¿½itre d'hotel: with herb butter entrecï¿½te marchand de vin: with sauce of red wine and shallots entrï¿½e: first course entremets: sweets ï¿½paule: shoulder of veal, lamb, mutton, pork ï¿½pi de mais: ear of sweet corn ï¿½pices: spices escabeche: sardines or marinated raw fish (vinegar or lemon juice and herbs) escalope: thinly slices meat or fish, usually cut at an angle escargot: land snail escargot ï¿½ l'alsacienne: simmered in Riesling, baked with garlic and parsley butter stuffing escargot de Bourgogne: land snail prepared with butter, garlic, and parsley escargot petit-gris: small land snail espadon: swordfish estofinado: fish stew from Auvergne w/dried cod, eggs,

 garlic, cream estouffade: stew of beef, pork, onions, mushrooms, orange zest, red wine estragon: tarragon ï¿½tï¿½: summer ï¿½trille: small crab ï¿½tuvï¿½: cooked in own juice, braised ï¿½ventail (en): cut into fan shape (vegetables or fish) faï¿½on (ï¿½ ma): my way (of preparing a dish) faisan(e): pheasant farandole: rolling cart, usually of desserts or cheese farci(e): stuffed feu de bois (au): cooked over a wood fire feuille de chï¿½ne: oak-leaf lettuce feuille de vigne: vine leaf feuilletage (en): (in) puff pastry feuillete au foie gras: puff pastry layered with sausage and foie gras (extravagant first course) fï¿½ves: broad beans or favas ficelle (ï¿½ la): tied with a string; also small, thin baguette figue: fig financiï¿½re: madeira sauce with truffle juice fines de claire: elongated crinkle shelled o

ysters (fattened up in beds) flageolets: small, pale green kidney-shaped beans flagnarde, flaugnarde: hot fruit-filled batter cake flamande (ï¿½ la): flemish style, usually with cabbage, carrots, potatoes, bacon flambe: flamed flamiche: savory tart with rich bread dough crust flamiche aux poireaux: leek and cream tart flan: sweet or savory tart or crustless custard pie flanchet (de veau): flank (of veal) fletan: halibut fraise des bois: wild strawberry framboise: raspberry frappe: drink served very cold or with ice frï¿½mis: (quivering); barely cooked (oysters) friandises: sweets, petit fours fricadelles: fried minced meat patties fricandeau: thinly sliced veal or rump roast, braised with vegetables, white wine fricassï¿½(e): ingredients braised in wine with butter and/or cream added; stewed frisï¿½e : curly, usually endive frit(es): french fries fritons: coarse pork rillettes or minced spread (includes organ meats) frit

ot: small organ meat fritter friture: frying; also refers to preparation of small fried fish (ex.

smelts) froid(e): cold fromage blanc: smooth low-fat cheese, similar to cottage cheese fromage de tï¿½te: head cheese, usually pork fromage maigre: low-fat cheese fruit de la passion: passion fruit fruits confits: preserved fruits; generally refers to candied fruits fruits de mer: seafood gayettes: small sausage made with pork liver and bacon gelï¿½e: aspic geniï¿½vre: juniper berry genoise: sponge cake germiny : garnish of sorrel; sorrel and cream soup gï¿½sier: gizzard gibelotte: fricassï¿½e of rabbit in red or white wine gibier: game gigot: leg, usually of lamb (d'agneau) gigot de mer: a preparation; usually large pieces of monkfish (lotte), oven-roasted gigue (de): haunch (of) certain game meats gingembre: ginger girolle: delicate, pale, orange wild mushroom glace: ice cream glacï¿½(e): iced, crystallized or glazed glaï¿½ons: ice cubes gougï¿½re: cheese flavored chou pastry (puff) goujon

nettes: generally describes small slices of fish, ex sole, usually fried goujons: small catfish; or any small fish; or small piece; breaded & fried gourmandises: sweetmeats gousse (d'ail): clove (of garlic) graine de moutarde: mustard seed graisse: fat graisserons: crisply fried pieces of duck or goose skin; cracklings grand veneur: usually a brown sauce for game, with red currant jelly granite: water ice gras-double: tripe baked with onions and white wine gratin: crusty-topped dish; also refers to a casserole gratin dauphinois: baked casserole of sliced potatoes w/cream and sometimes cheese gratin savoyard: baked casserole of sliced potatoes w/bouillon, cheese, butter gratinï¿½(e): having a crusty, browned top; also onion soup grattons: crisply fried pieces of pork, goose or duck skin; cracklings gratuit: free grecque (ï¿½ la): cold vegetables, usually mushrooms, marinated in oil, lemon, water grelot: small white bult onion grenade: pomegranate grenouille (cuisses

 de): frog legs gribiche (sauce): mayonnaise with capers, cornichons, and herbs grillade: grilled meat griotte: shiny, slightly acidic reddish black cherry grive: thrush grondin: type of ocean fish used in fish stews such as bouillabaisse gros sel: coarse sale hachis: minced or chopped meat preparation hareng: herring haricot blanc: white bean; usually dried haricot de mouton: stew of mutton and white beans haricot rouge: red kidney bean; also preparation of red beans in red wine haricot vert: green bean, usually fresh hiver: winter hochepot: thick stew, usually oxtail homard: lobster hongroise (ï¿½ la): Hungarian-style, usually with paprika and cream hors-d'oeuvre: appetizer; also can refer to a first course huile: oil huile de pï¿½pins de raisins: grape seed oil huitre: oyster hure de porc: head of a pig or boar; usually headcheese preparation hure de saumon: a salmon "headcheese", prepared with salmon meat, not the head ile flottante

: classically layered cake covered w/whipped cream, w/custard sauce ile flottantes: floating island of meringue in crï¿½me anglaise imperatrice (ï¿½ l'): usually rice pudding dessert with candied fruit indienne (ï¿½ l'): East Indian style, usually with curry powder infusion: herb tea jambon: ham; also refers to thigh or shoulder of meat, usually pork jambon cru: usually salt cured or smoked ham that has been aged but not cooked jambon de Bayonne: raw, dried, salt-cured ham jambon de Paris: lightly salted, cooked ham, very pale in color jambon de York: smoked, English-style ham, usually poached jambon d'oie (canard): breast of fattened goose (duck), smoked or salted or sugar cured jambonneau: pork knuckle jambonnette: boned and stuffed knuckle of ham or poultry jardiniï¿½re: garnish of fresh cooked vegetables jarret de veau: stew of veal shin Jï¿½sus de morteau: smoked pork sausage from the Franche-Comte jeun(e): young julienne: sl

ivered vegetables (sometimes meat) jus: juice kir: crï¿½me de cassis and white wine (usually, sometimes red) kir royal: crï¿½me de cassis and champagne kougelhopf : sweet, crown-shaped Alsatian yeast cake w/almonds and raisins lotte: monkfish or angler fish; a large firm-fleshed ocean fish, rich in flavor lou magret: breast of fattened duck loup (de mer): Mediterranean fish, also known as bar, similar to striped bass lyonnaise (ï¿½ la): in the style of Lyon, often garnished with onions macï¿½doine: diced mixed fruit or vegetables macï¿½rer: to steep, pickle or soak mï¿½che: lamb's lettuce, a tiny, dark green lettuce madeleines: small tea cakes magret de canard (d'oie): breast of fattened duck (or goose) maigre: thin, non-fattening maison (de la): of the house, or restaurant maï¿½tre d'hï¿½tel: head waiter; also compound butter maltaise: orange-flavored hollandaise sauce mange-tout: literally, eat it all;

 podless green bean, snow pea, type of apple mangue: mango maniï¿½re (de): in the style of maquereau: mackerel maraichï¿½re (ï¿½ la): market-garden style; dish or salad that includes various greens marbrï¿½(e): marbled marc: distilled residue of grape skins or other fruit after they've been pressed marcassin: young wild boar marchand de vin: wine merchant; also a sauce made with red wine, meat stock, shallots marchï¿½: market marï¿½e (la): literally the tide; usually used to indicate that seafood is fresh marennes: flat-shelled, green-tinged plate oysters; village where raised mareyeur: wholesale fish merchant mariniï¿½re (moules): mussels cooked in white wine with onions, shallots, butter, herbs marjolaine: marjoram; also, multilayered chocolate and nut cake marmite: small covered pot; also a dish cooked in a small casserole marquise (au chocolat): rich chocolate mousse cake marron: large chestnut matelote (d'anguilles

): freshwater fish stew (or of eels) mauviette: wild meadowlark or skylark mï¿½daillon: round piece or slice mï¿½lange: mixture or blend mï¿½li-mï¿½lo: an assortment of fish and/or seafood, usually served in a salad melon de cavaillon: small cantaloupe-like melon mï¿½nagï¿½re (ï¿½ la): in the style of a housewife (simply prepared), onions, potatoes, carrots menthe: mint menthe poivrï¿½e: peppermint menu d'affairs: (businessman's) - avoid - cell phones menu de la mer: seafood menu menu dï¿½gustation: tasting menu menu du marchï¿½: fresh ingredients picked up by chef at market that day menu du terroir: regional menu menu gastronomique: extravagant or richly luxurious specialties mets: dish or preparation mets selon la saison: seasonal preparation meuniï¿½re (ï¿½ la): fish seasoned, floured, fried in butter, served with lemon and parsley meurette: in, or with, a red wine sauce; also

 a Burgundian fish stew meurette: red wine sauce w/mushrooms, onions, bacon, carrots miel: honey mignonette: small cubes, usually of beef; also refers to coarsely ground peppercorns mijotï¿½(e) (plat): simmered (dish or preparation) mille-feuille: refers to puff pastry mimosa: garnish of chopped hard cooked egg yolks minute (ï¿½ la): prepared at the last minute mirabeau: garnish of anchovies, pitted olives, tarragon and anchovy butter mirabelle: yellow plum mirepoix: cubes of carrots and onions, or mixed vegetables in braising for flavor miroton (de): slices (of); also stew of meats flavored with onions mitonnï¿½e: a simmered soup-like dish mode (ï¿½ la): in the style of moelle: beef bone marrow moka: refers to coffee; coffee-flavored dish montagne (de): from the mountains montmorency: garnished with cherries morceau: piece or small portion morille: wild morel mushroom morue: salted or dried and salted codfish mouclade: creamy mussel stew; sometimes

 flavored with curry moule: mussel moule de parques: Dutch mussels; usually fattened in beds moule d'Espagne: large mussel, often served raw as part of seafood platter moules mariniï¿½res: mussels cooked in white wine, shallots, butter, herbs moules-frites: snack of steaming bowl of mussels, French fries w/mayonnaise mousse: light, airy mixture; sweet or savory mousseline: ingredients lightened with whipped cream or egg whites (sauces) mousseron: tiny, delicate, wild mushroom moutarde (ï¿½ l'ancienne en): mustard (coarse grained) mouton: mutton mulet: mullet, a rustic-flavored ocean fish mure: blackberry museau de porc (boeuf): vinegared pork (beef) muzzle myrtille: type of blueberry nage (ï¿½ la): aromatic poaching liquid (served in) nantua: sauce of crayfish, butter cream and truffles; also garnish of crayfish nappe: covered; as with a sauce nature: refers to simple, unadorned preparations navarin

: refers to lamb or mutton navet: turnip niï¿½oise: w/tomatoes, onions, anchovies, olives nid: nest nivernaise: in the style of nevers, with carrots and onions noilles: noodles noisette: also refers to small round piece (such as potato) browned in butter noix: walnut; nut; nut sized normande: refers to fish or meat cooked with apple cider or calvados; or sauce of seafood, cream, mushrooms normande: also dessert with apples, usually served with cream nouilles ï¿½ l'alsacienne: noodles, usually with butter and cream nouveau (nouvelle): new or young nouveautï¿½: a new offering noyau: stone or pit oeuf ï¿½ la coque: soft-cooked egg oeuf brouillï¿½: scrambled egg oeuf dur: hard-cooked egg oeuf en meurette: poached egg in red wine sauce oeuf mollet: egg simmered in water for 6 minutes oeuf poche: poached egg oeuf saut ï¿½ la poï¿½le: fried egg oeuf sur le plat: fried egg oe

ufs ï¿½ la neige: (in the snow) sweetened whipped whites poached in milk/in custard oeufs au jambon: eggs and ham offert(e): offered; free or given oie: goose omble chevalier: member of trout family with firm flaky flesh from white to deep red omelette: aux fines herbs; au fromage (cheese); au jambon (ham) onglet: cut similar to beef flank steak; biftek, and entrecote (can be tough) oreilles (de porc): ears (of pig) orties: nettles ortolan: tiny wild bird (now protected) os: bone pastis: refreshing long, cool drink; anise liqueur or flavor w/ice and water pastise: anise liqueur pï¿½te: pastry dough pï¿½te ï¿½ choux: cream puff pastry pï¿½te brisï¿½e: pie pastry pï¿½te sablï¿½e: sweeter, richer than pï¿½te sucrï¿½e pï¿½te sucrï¿½e: sweet pie pastry pï¿½tï

¿½: molded, spiced, minced meat, baked and served hot or cold pï¿½tï¿½ en croute: pate baked in pastry crust pï¿½tisserie: pastry pï¿½tissier: pastry chef patte: paw, foot, or leg or bird or animal patte blanche: small crayfish paupiette: thin sice of meat, usually beef or fish, filled, rolled, then wrapped pavï¿½: thick slice of boned beef or calve's liver; also king of pastry paysan(ne) (ï¿½ la): country style; garnish of carrots, turnips, onions, celery, bacon peau: skin pï¿½che melba: poached peach with vanilla ice cream and raspberry sauce pï¿½cheur: usually refers to fish preparations pelure: peelings, such as truffles, used for flavorings perce-pierre: samphire, edible seaweed perche: perch, finely flavored fresh water fish perdreau: young partridge pï¿½rigourdine (ï¿½ la): sauce, usually with truffles and foie gras persil: parsley petit dï¿½jeuner: breakfast

 petit-pois: small green peas petits fours: tiny cakes and pastries petits-gris: small land snail petoncle: tiny scallop, similar to bay scallops pets de nonne: small, dainty fried pastry pibale: small eel, also called civelle piï¿½ce: portion or piece pied de mouton: meaty, cream-colored wild mushroom; also sheep's foot pied de porc: pig's foot pigeonneau: young pigeon or squab pignons: pine nuts, or pignoli pilau, pilaf: rice booked with onions and broth piment (poivre) de Jamaï¿½que: allspice piment doux: sweet pepper pince: claw; also tongs used when eating snails or seafood pintade: guinea fowl pipï¿½rade: basque dish of peppers, onions, tomatoes, and often scrambled eggs pipï¿½rade au jambon: above served on slice of ham piquant(e): sharp or spicy tasting pique: larded; studded pissaladiï¿½re: a flat open-face tart garnished with onions, olives, anchovies pissenlit: dandelion (le

aves) pistil de safran: thread of saffron pistou: sauce of basil, garlic, olive oil; also a rich vegetable soup pithiviers: classic puff pastry dessert filled with almond cream plat: a dish plateau de fruits de mer: seafood platter (raw & cooked combined) plates cï¿½tes: part of beef ribs usually used in pot-au-feu pleurote: oyster mushroom plombiï¿½res: dessert of vanilla ice cream, candied fruit, kirsch, whipped cream pluches: leaves of herbs or plants, generally used for garnish pochï¿½(e): poached pochouse: freshwater fish stew prepared with white or red wine poï¿½lï¿½(e): pan-fried pointe (d'asperge): tip (of asparagus) poire: pear poireau: leek poires belle hï¿½lï¿½ne: poached pears served on vanilla ice cream with hot chocolate sauce pois: peas poitrine: breast (of meat or poultry) poitrine demi-sel: unsmoked slab bacon poitrine fumï¿½e: smoked slab bacon poivrade: peppery

 brown sauce of wine, vinegar, and cooked vegetables (strained) poivre: pepper poivre frais de Madagascar: green peppercorns poivre noir: black peppercorns poivron (doux): sweet bell pepper polenta: cornmeal cooked with butter and cheese pommade (en): usually refers to a thick, smooth paste pomme: apple pomme en l'air: caramelized apple slices usually served with blood sausage pommes (de terre): potatoes pommes ï¿½ la vapeur: steamed or boiled potatoes pommes ï¿½ l'anglaise: boiled potatoes pommes allumettes: very thin fries 1/4 x 2-1/2 pommes boulangï¿½re: potatoes cooked with the meat; gratin with onions, sometimes bacon pommes dauphinoise: basked dish of sliced potatoes w/milk, garlic, cheese pommes dauphine : mashed potatoes mixed with chou pastry, shaped into balls & fried pommes duchesse: mashed potatoes with butter, egg yolks, nutmeg garnish pommes en robe: potatoes cooked with skins on pommes frites: French fries pommes gratinï¿½es: baked dish of

 potatoes, browned, often with cheese pommes lyonnaises: potatoes sautï¿½ed with onions pommes paillï¿½s: potatoes cut into julienne strips, then fried pommes pont-neuf: classic fries, cut 1/2 x 2-1/2 pommes soufflï¿½es: small thin slices of potato fried twice (inflate like pillows) porc (carrï¿½ de): pork (loin) porc (cï¿½te de): pork (chop) porcelet: young suckling pig ramequin: small individual casserole, also small tart rapï¿½(e): grated or shredded rascasse: scorpion fish rave: root vegetables - celery, turnip, radish ravigote: thick vinaigrette sauce w/vinegar, white wine, shallots, herbs, mayo rï¿½chauffer: to reheat reine-claude: greengage plum reinette: fall and winter variety of apple rï¿½moulade: sauce of mayo, capers, mushrooms, herbs, anchovies, gherkins rillettes (d'oie): minces spread of pork (goose

), or duck, fish, rabbit rillons: usually pork belly, cut up and cooked 'til crisp rince doigt: finger bowl ris de veau: veal sweetbreads riviï¿½re: river riz ï¿½ l'imperatrice: cold rice pudding with candied fruit riz complet: brown rice rognonnade: veal loin with kidneys attached rognons: kidneys service (non) compris: service (not) included serviette: napkin sirops: flavored syrup w/mineral water, seltzer, lemon soda (bar or cafe) smitane: sauce of cream, onions, white wine and lemon juice soissons: dried or fresh white beans sole normande: sole poached in cider, garnished with mussels, shrimp, cream sauce sorbet: sherbet souffle: light sweet or savory mixture, served hot or cold steack: beef steak stockfish: salted and air-dried codfish succes au pralin: meringue cake flavored w/caramelized almonds, layered w/butter cream sucre: sugar suprï¿½me: a veal- or chicken-based white sauce thickened with flour and cream suprï¿

½me: a boneless breast of poultry or a fillet of fish tablier de sapeur: tripe that is marinated, breaded, and grilled tagine: spicy North African stew of veal, lamb, chicken, or pigeon with veg tanche: tench, a freshwater fish with mild, delicate flavor tapenade: blend of black olives, anchovies, capers, olive oil, lemon juice tarama: mullet roe, often made into a spread of the same name tart tatin: caramelized upside-down apple pie tartare: chopped raw beef, seasoned and garnished with raw egg, etc.

tarte: tart; open-face pie or flan, usually sweet tarte au fromage: cheesecake tartine: open-face sandwich; buttered bread tasse: cup tendrons: cartilaginous meat cut from beef or veal ribs terrine: earthenware container; also mixture cooked in the container tï¿½te de veau (porc): head of veal (pork), usually used in headcheese thï¿½: tea tian: earthenware gratin dish; also vegetable mixture cooked in dish tiï¿½de: lukewarm tilleul: lime or linden blossom herb tea timbale: small mold; mixture prepared in mold topinambour: Jerusalem artichoke toulousaine: Toulouse-style; usually with truffles or sweetbreads; cock's combs, etc.

tournï¿½dos: center portion of beef filet, usually grilled or sautï¿½ed tournï¿½dos rossini: sauteed tournedos garnished with foie gras and truffles tourteau: large crab with large claws full of deliciously sweet meat tourtiï¿½re: shallow cooking vessel; also pastry dish filled w/spples and/or prunes tranche: slice travers de porc: spare ribs tripes ï¿½ la mode de Caen: beef tripe, carrots, onions, leeks, spices, cooked w/cider and brandy tripoux: mutton tripe trompettes des mort: dark brown "horn of plenty" mushrooms tronï¿½on: cut of meat or fish (sliced from widest part) truffe (truffï¿½[e]): truffle (with truffles) truite: trout truite saumonï¿½e: salmon trout tuile: literally, tile; delicate almond-flavored cookie turban: usually mixture or combination of ingredients cooked in ring mold turbot(in): turbot (small turbot) considered the finest of fish (and most expensive) vacherin: dessert of

 baked meringue, with ice cream and cream; also a cheese vallï¿½ d'ange: region of Normandy; also garnish of cooked apples and cream vanille: vanilla vapeur (ï¿½ la): steam(ed) veau: veal velouteï¿½: veal or chicken based sauce thickened with flour venaison: venison Behind the French Menu: Rognons - Kidneys on French menus.

Rognons - Kidneys on French menus. from Bryan G. Newman On most French menus, kidneys will be Rognons de Veau, veal kidneys, or Rognons d'Agneau, lamb kidneys. The delicate taste and texture of these kidneys requires little cooking. The kidneys of older animals require a great deal more work. Brittany Veal Kidneys Braised in a Chartreuse and red wine sauce together with their natural cooking juices . Photograph by courtesy of Janine Cheung. Veal kidneys and lamb kidneys, will be on many menus in France. There are tens of different recipes, with kidneys grilled, fried, broiled, as well as part of stews, pies and casseroles. Despite the city dwellers preferences for veal or lamb kidneys you may find an old-style bistro or a country restaurant. There, traditional menus may include beef kidneys, goat’s kidneys and or pig’s kidneys. These will be prepared as a slowly cooked stew, or as part of another recipe. Photograph courtesy of wEnDy I am not going into the reasons for the scarcity of kidneys on restaurant menus in the UK and USA; mostly because I know of no good reason.

However, historically many interna organs were considered the cheaper cuts. As the standard of living rose, outside France, internal organ dishes became associated with low-income groups. In France, the opposite happened. As a result veal and lamb kidneys, veal liver, goose and duck liver, veal and lamb sweetbreads and other cuts remained on the menus in Michelin starred restaurants. You cannot do to badly if you follow the French; they eat very well, and they cook very well! Even if you claim that you do not eat kidneys, and or liver etc. when you are at home, I can assure you that you do.. All of these parts play a role in the flavor and texture of those 100% chicken, beef, pork, lamb, and veal sausages, pies and burgers that most of us love. My greatest sorrow, where kidneys are concerned, is that I have yet to see a French version of that great British dish, steak and kidney pie; however, I am sure that a French take on that dish is out there somewhere. Kidneys on French menus: Fricassée de Rognons de Bœuf – A beef kidney stew.

The original fricassées were only made with chicken; however, that was originally; today fricassées are often made with veal, other poultry, kidneys, shellfish, vegetables and occasionally lamb or rabbit. As a fricassée stew was traditionally made with white meats and that same dish could also be called a ragoût blanc, a white stew. White wine will be used and crème fraiche may be added at the end. Vegetables may be included in the stew or added later. Mushrooms are nearly always included.This is a stew of beef kidneys so it will be slowly cooked. Rognons Blancs or Animelles – These are not kidneys. These are the French names for animal testicles. Rognons à la Bordelaise – Kidneys prepared in the manner of Bordeaux . In this dish, veal kidneys are baked in a casserole, in the oven, with lots of red or white Bordeaux wine. Along with the wine will be onions, shallots , carrots and herbs, and no doubt the chef will include a bouquet garnie and parsley.

Rognons d'Agneau, Grillés au Bacon, Gratin Dauphinois et Légumes de Provence – Lamb kidneys grilled with bacon and served with Pommes de Terre Dauphinois. Pommes de Terre Dauphinois are sliced baked potatoes cooked with olive oil and garlic and layered with cream and milk; some versions include onions. This potato dish is sprinkled with Parmesan or Gruyère cheese and lightly grilled before serving. The potatoes are accompanied in a separate dish, by vegetables prepared in the manner of Provence. N.B.: Do not confuse Pommes de Terre Dauphiné with Pommes de Terre Darphin. Fricassée de Rognons de Veau aux Pleurotes - A veal kidney stew made with oyster mushrooms. Émincé de Rognon de Veau, Sauce Moutarde – Thin slices of veal kidneys lightly fried with a mustard sauce; this is a very popular dish.

A bistro dish of veal kidneys and mashed potatoes; a popular bistro dish Photograph by courtesy of Jeff Kramer Rognonnade - A traditional French kidney dish where the veal kidneys are served together with part of the sirloin, a veal steak. In the USA, I was told this is called a kidney chop, but I have not seen it on modern US menus. A French chef will have his or her butchers prepare the cut as it should be and prepare them together. Rognonnade de Veau aux Champignons, Sauce Madère – Veal kidneys cooked with part of the veal rib steak with mushrooms and served with Madeira wine sauce . Connected posts:

Question: On a French menu what are rognons?
Answer: Kidneys