Types of Begonias - The Begonia Society of W.A. (Inc.) Coming Events Types of Begonias There are a number of types of Begonias and thousands of variations of these types. Some varieties are very difficult to grow and are usually grown only by specialist collectors. A large number do require extra TLC, but the largest number of Begonias are not difficult to grow when their simple requirements are understood and provided. Click on any header below to display or hide the detail. Cane Like: Begonia 'Tom Ment'. CANE LIKE: are so called because they have tall, sometimes thick stems with swollen nodes which are well spaced and often resemble a bamboo cane. The plants have distinctive large pendulous clusters of bloom which will hang on the plant for months. Typical canes are Sophie Cecile, Red Rubra, and diadema. Canes should be pruned in spring. Remove all old canes, reduce last year's growth by about half and leave new growths to develop. Most canes will need staking so that the branches can support the large clusters of flowers. Staking is best done when the plant is pruned and repotted, then the new growth can be trained to a good shape as it grows.

Shrub Like: Begonia fuchsioides. SHRUB LIKE: can cause some confusion because they are not always as distinctive as the other varieties. They are usually small to medium in height, 30 to 60 cm. If they are pruned back and pinched they will bush out and make full compact plants. Most of them produce some basal shoots but not as prolific as semps. Typical shrublike plants are fuschioides, incarnata and domingensis. Tuberous: Begonia tuberhybrida. TUBEROUS: are a distinct class of Begonia where the tuber goes completely dormant after each seasons growth. Best in cooler climates they are easily recognisable by the huge double blooms for which they are grown although there are also pendulous and other varieties. Rhizomatous: Begonia bowerae. RHIZOMATOUS: are plants which form a rhizome. A thickened stem which stores water and nourishment and produces roots from the lower surface and leaves from the upper surface. There are slender rhizomes less than one cm. thick, thick rhizomes 3 to 5 cm, creeping rhizomes and ascendi rhizomes.

Typical ones are bowerae, Cleopatra and Erythrophylla. Rhizomes are pruned and repotted when they finish blooming usually about November to December. As these varieties are able to store large amounts of moisture in their thickened stems they require less moisture than most other Begonias, especially during the colder months. Rex: Begonia rex 'Mariposa'. REX: There is only one Rex species but the plants we grow are generally hybrids. These are classed mainly by their colour and leaf texture. They are naturally rhizomatous but because of hybridising there are exceptions. Since most Rexes are rhizomatous they need the same care with watering. They enjoy a lighter, looser mix than most Begonias and also require more protection, lower light levels and higher humidity. Rex Begonias do not like our cold, wet winters in Western Australia, so do prefer to be kept in a warm day position. These plants will make Ideal terrarium specimens. Begonia rex 'Putzey' - the original rex species. Trailing Scandents: Begonia mazae nigricans.

TRAILING/SCANDENTS: any Begonia which has slender stems, and (or) heavy foliage which causes it to trail downwards is classed as trailing. Typical plants are B. procumbens and B. fagifolia. Most of these plants will send up many basal shoots if pruned back and respond well to pinching, so that it is quite easy to produce a full bushy plant. Quite a few of the trailing species are winter bloomers and therefore add winter colour to a collection. As the name suggests these plants can be grown in a hanging container or up a trellis. Some bloom winter to spring and others in summer. The early bloomers should be pruned when they finish flowering November/December. The others are pruned in spring. Semperflorens: Begonia semperflorens - double pink flowered form. SEMPERFLORENS: are well known and widely grown. The name means ever- flowering and they will if kept dry and warm over the winter months. They can have green, bronze or variegated (Calla type) foliage and either single or double flowers. Always a small bushy plant seldom ever growing more than 30 cm.

If cut back to within 3 cm of soil level the plant will produce many basal shoots. Good for mass garden displays. Thick Stemmed: Begonia 'Anita'. THICK STEMMED: are just that. They produce usually one (sometimes more) thick stem and are loathe to bush out into a compact plant. They usually need staking and most of them require a lot of attention to produce an attractive balanced plant. Typical plants are Pearle de Lorraine, olbia and fernando costae. Semi Tuberous: Begonia dregei 'Glasgow'. SEMI TUBEROUS: are easily identified by the thickened base of the stem. Usually the stem forms a tuber at or just under the surface soil but are quite distinct from tuberous in that they do not go completely dormant. Nearly all of the semi tuberous have small leaves. Types are Weltonensis, dregei and partita. They are usually prolific bloomers and when they have been pruned in spring the new growth should be pinched to encourage side growths until the grower is happy with the size and the shape. They can then be left to bloom.

After 2 to 3 months these Begonias can become a bit straggly and then should be pruned back. They will soon regrow and commence blooming again. Copyright protection applies to all articles, graphics and photographs on this website. The rights belong to the people acknowledged or the WA Begonia Society Incorporated. � 2013 The different types of Begonia flowers home or Selection menu at foot of page This article was originally on the Canterbury (New Zealand) Begonia Circle website hosted on geocities.com which is no longer available (2013) - the article is reproduced here as it is considered of value. The copyright remains with the original author/photographer. Types of Begonias Today there are around one thousand begonia species and many, many more hybrids being grown around the world. They originated in the main from Central and Southern America, China, India, Indonesia and South East Asia – none have been found in Europe or Australasia. Here we have a brief description of each. Tuberous Begonias: The ones we know today with the very large flowers are all hybrids originating from single flowered species found in 1860 in places like Bolivia and Peru.

Their development over the past 120 years has resulted in the magnificent blooms they now produce. Large flowered tuberous begonias prefer to be grown in semi shade protected from strong winds. They do not tolerate frost and in early winter lose their foliage and remain dormant until spring. Semperflorens Begonias: These will be known to most gardeners as simply bedding or wax begonias. They can be seen in many gardens and parks and make a wondrous site en masse. They come in a wide range of colours (except blue as is the case with all begonias) with either green, variegated or bronze foliage. They are more tolerant to the heat than their large flowered tuberous cousins – but, again, will not tolerate frost. They are in the main treated as annual plants but in warmer climates can be cut back in winter and will grow again. Cane-like: These are so named because of their stiff cane like stems. They are also called "Angel Wing" begonias and sometimes tree begonias. They are excellent in both pots or open ground and can vary in size from a mere foot tall to in excess of 10 feet high.

They have long clusters of small flowers which last for long periods in the warmer areas. They do not tolerate frost. Rex Begonias: These, although rhizomatous in habit are classified separately. These plants are grown solely for their foliage which is truly magnificent. They are, however, not the easiest of begonias to grow, require a humidity of around 69% and are best grown in protected areas. Hiemalis Begonias: These are often seen under different names such as Rieger or Blush begonias in garden centres and supermarkets. In New Zealand they tend to be grown as winter flowering plants. They are very susceptible to over watering but if well fed and grown in reasonable light they will smother themselves in one inch semi double flowers ranging from scarlet through to soft pastels, pinks and creams. Trailing-Scandents: These often make good hanging baskets while others can be used as climbers in and around your garden. There is not a wide range of varieties in this group but they are well worth growing and propagate very easily from tip and stem cuttings. Shrub-like Begonias: Like trailing Scandents these plants have excellent foliage which ranges from being extremely hairy to totally bare.

In addition however they do flower really well if a good general fertiliser is regularly applied. As their name would suggest they tend to be bushy plants often with dense growth. Excellent as pot specimens. Elatior Begonias: As previously mentioned the Hiemalis/Rieger begonias are regarded as winter flowering whereas the Elatior, although a similar begonia developed in recent years in Europe, flowers all year round and makes an excellent house plant. Thick-stemmed begonias: A relatively small group not so widely known. As their name would suggest, they have thick stems from their base to their tips. They do make good pot plants, can grow to six feet in height and like plenty of good light. related pages: Types of Begonias Types of Begonias Rex's Types of Begonias Today there are around one thousand begonia species and many, many more hybrids being grown around the world. They originated in the main from Central and Southern America, China, India, Indonesia and South East Asia ï¿½ none have been found in Europe or Australasia. Here we have a brief description of each.

Tuberous Begonias : The ones we know today with the very large flowers are all hybrids originating from single flowered species found in 1860 in places like Bolivia and Peru. Their development over the past 120 years has resulted in the magnificent blooms they now produce. Large flowered tuberous begonias prefer to be grown in semi shade protected from strong winds. They do not tolerate frost and in early winter lose their foliage and remain dormant until spring. Semperflorens Begonias : These will be known to most gardeners as simply bedding or wax begonias. They can be seen in many gardens and parks and make a wondrous site en masse. They come in a wide range of colours (except blue as is the case with all begonias) with either green, variegated or bronze foliage. They are more tolerant to the heat than their large flowered tuberous cousins ï¿½ but, again, will not tolerate frost. They are in the main treated as annual plants but in warmer climates can be cut back in winter and will grow again. Cane-li ke: These are so named because of their stiff cane like stems.

They are also called "Angel Wing" begonias and sometimes tree begonias. They are excellent in both pots or open ground and can vary in size from a mere foot tall to in excess of 10 feet high. They have long clusters of small flowers which last for long periods in the warmer areas. They do not tolerate frost. Rex Begonias : These, although rhizomatous in habit are classified separately. These plants are grown solely for their foliage which is truly magnificent. They are, however, not the easiest of begonias to grow, require a humidity of around 69% and are best grown in protected areas. Hiemalis begonias : These are often seen under different names such as Rieger or Blush begonias in garden centres and supermarkets. In New Zealand they tend to be grown as winter flowering plants. They are very susceptible to overwatering but if well fed and grown in reasonable light they will smother themselves in one inch semi double flowers ranging from scarlet through to soft pastels, pinks and creams. Trailing-Scandents : These often make good hanging baskets while others can be used as climbers in and around your garden .

There is not a wide range of varieties in this group but they are well worth growing and propagate very easily from tip and stem cuttings. Shrub-like begonias : Like trailing Scandents these plants have excellent foliage which ranges from being extremely hairy to totally bare. In addition however they do flower really well if a good general fertiliser is regularly applied. As their name would suggest they tend to be bushy plants often with dense growth. Excellent as pot specimens. Ela tior begonias : As previously mentioned the Hiemalis/Rieger begonias are regarded as winter flowering whereas the Elatior, although a similar begonia developed in recent years in Europe, flowers all year round and makes an excellent house plant Thick-stemmed begonias : A relatively small group not so widely known. As their name would suggest, they have thick stems from their base to their tips. They do make good pot plants, can grow to six feet in height and like plenty of good light. Begonias a crafty bunch - Houston Chronicle Begonias a crafty bunch Published 5:30 am, Saturday, May 25, 2002 Begonias are a crafty bunch.

No plant group puts a better spin on leaves. Leaf shapes run from pointy stars to tapered angel's wings to round beefsteaks. Margins may be even, scalloped, sharply toothed or fringed; incisions may be cleft or lobed. Or a species may mimic the foliage of a cucumber, a pond lily, an elm or curly lettuce. (Some begonia species are, in fact, edible, but never digest an unknown.) Some begonia faces are smudged with rouge; others are a miniature galaxy of silver spots. With markings so colorful and patterns so distinctive, who cares about flowers? Sound like the begonias you know? Gardeners will discover there are begonias beyond the ubiquitous wax leaves at "Begonias International," an American Begonia Society national convention hosted by the three Houston area branches. The public is invited to begonia exhibitions, floral designs and plant sales 9 a.m.-5 p.m. June 1 and 9 a.m.- 3 p.m. June 2 at the Hilton at Houston Hobby Airport , 8181 Airport Blvd . Admission is free.

In their native habitats, begonias are scattered through deserts, forests and mountains in a band that stretches around the world and between the Tropic of Cancer and the Tropic of Capricorn. Most are found in cloud and rain forests. Begonias like humidity, and that's good news for Houston gardeners. Begonias also like a loose, well-draining soil; bright light or filtered light -- more good news for the shade gardener; good air circulation; adequate water; and mild, regular fertilization such as applications of a 20-20-20 every two weeks during the growing season. Some gardeners apply a diluted fish emulsion during alternating weeks. Always water before and after fertilization. Begonias dislike heavy, clay soils, hot sun or low light, cold drafts, overfertilization and overwatering that causes the roots to sit in soggy soil. Begonias are categorized according to root types -- fibrous, rhizomatous and tuberous. The semperflorens, or popular wax begonias, have fibrous roots. Gardeners here rely on the small, tufted blooms of these bedding plants spring to frost.

Others with fibrous roots are the canelike begonias, the shrublike types, the thick-stemmed and trailing-scandents. For most, the canes are easier to grow here than rhizomatous and, particularly, the tuberous types. Named for its stem that is segmented with spaced and swollen nodes, cane begonias are tall and vigorous and can have large leaves. In a native habitat, canes may reach 20 feet, but are much shorter in the Houston garden. They are frost-tender, so be prepared to protect during winter. The bamboolike canes shoot upward and branch at the top. Most canes have off-center foliage shaped like angel wings that may be spotted, streaked, blotched, a solid color, or dark green on top and burgundy on the underside. The leaves may be ruffled. The flowers dangle in large, pendulous panicles that are well displayed in hanging baskets. Some canes have seasonal flowers, others offer more than one cycle of blooms. Potted canes also can be used to accent shade beds. Shrublike begonias also adapt to our climate. These branching, bushy bloomers are good container plants.

The trailing-scandents are fibrous types that trail or climb. Use in large hanging baskets (pinch to encourage foliage to fill the basket) or, as begonia convention chair Cheryl Lenert suggests, as a ground cover in bright or filtered shade. The treelike thick-stemmed begonias, which sulk over too much water, aren't as easy, and may be a better bet for the begonia collector. The rhizomatous begonia can be grown here, but the trick is to avoid overwatering. In its natural, rocky habitats, this begonia relies on the water stored in its rhizomes. With this in mind, this begonia type can be enjoyed in containers in a well-draining, evenly moist mix. Find the container a spot on the deck or patio, or place among other plants in the garden. Some varieties can be planted in beds, provided there's excellent drainage and a root-protecting blanket of mulch. As with the canes, rhizomatous begonias prefer bright light. Direct sunlight can burn the foliage, but the plants will take some morning sun in winter, and this helps promote the late winter /early spring blooms.

Rhizomatous begonias are grown mostly for their foliage. The shapes and colorful markings vary. Leaves may be soft and velvety, curly like lettuce, large like a maple leaf, thick and round like a beefsteak or sharply pointed. Foliage colors range from a satiny black to chocolate to deep or pale green to silvery white. Some leaves are veined; others are mottled. Rather than put on a lot of vertical growth, the foliage of rhizomatous begonias makes beautiful mounds, ranging in size from miniature to more than a foot across. It is important to avoid overwatering the shallow-rooted, water-storing rhizome. Test the soil with your finger to determine if watering is necessary. Avoid planting in too deep a container because the shallow roots won't tap the moisture in the bottom of the pot, and the soil can sour. These begonias are handsome in a wide bowl filled with coarse, well-draining potting mix. Rex begonias are a rhizomatous type, but are not grouped with the others because the foliage is especially bold and because the plants can be more difficult to grow.

Rex begonias like warm days and cool nights, and they dislike our heat. It is easy to see why some gardeners can't resist the spectacular foliage, which is so colorful that it looks painted. Although pulling a rex through our boiling summer might be tough, enjoying one fall through spring is possible, especially for the gardener willing to pay extra attention to watering. Rexes need bright, indirect light. While leaves make rhizomatous begonias popular, tuberous types are grown for the plants' beautiful flowers that resemble double roses or camellias. Visitors to Butchart Gardens in British Columbia marvel at begonia blooms that approach dinner-plate size. Smaller-flowered tuberous begonias appear in nurseries here late in the year, and we can use the plants as winter annuals in pots or planted in garden beds with alyssum and petunias. The tuberous begonia is beautiful with maidenhair ferns in a basket on the dining room table. Few pests are attracted to begonias. Mildew can pop up in cold, damp weather. During such times, avoid wetting the foliage and, if possible, boost the light and heat.

Mealy bugs are an occasional bother. Discourage these pests with an insecticidal soap. All of the begonias pictured here, and several others, will be available at the convention's plant sale. JJL Greenhouses, a local wholesaler, has been growing plants for the local ABS branches to sell. The three Houston-area branches of the ABS include: The Astro Branch, which meets at 2 p.m. the first Sunday of each month at Teas Nursery, 4545 Beechnut. For information, call 713-686-8539 or 281-897-0155. The San Jacinto Branch, which meets the second Tuesday of each month at 10 a.m. at the Community Room of Pasadena Town Square between Southmore Avenue and Harris Street in Pasadena. The Houston Satellites Branch, which meets at 9:30 a.m. the fourth Tuesday of each month in the League City Bank & Trust, 303 E. Main in League City. For information, call 281-471-5048 or 281-991-4848.

Non-tuberous Begonias AMINO ACIDS VITAMINS MINERALS BACH FLOWER REMEDIES BEE PRODUCTS AROMATHERAPY HOMEOPATHY Non-tuberous Begonias All non-tuberous begonias are frost-tender. For optimal growth, temperatures between 54ï¿½ F (12ï¿½C) and 76ï¿½F (24ï¿½C) are required. Although they like good ventilation (which helps prevent mildew), they do not like cold winds. Fortunately, there are many that grow well indoors and some that are suited to container culture only, so even growers in cooler areas can enjoy these plants year-round as houseplants, and in conservatories or terrariums. Wherever they are grown, good light is essential. Morning and afternoon sun will help give good foliage color, prevent legginess, and improve the quality and quantity of the flowers. For best results avoid dark corners. Humid conditions of around 40-60 percent are ideal.

In the house as container plants, the humidity can be increased by setting the container over, but not in, water, e.g., by placing the pot on some pebbles in a saucer. This is particularly useful in the winter if the heating system is drying out the atmosphere. All begonias prefer free-draining soil and, if grown in containers, a free-draining open mix. Beware of over-watering container-grown plants. Water should be given only when the mix is dry to the touch, but then it is important to add enough water to thoroughly moisten the mix. Care should be taken, however, to avoid watering the leaves. Every few weeks during the growing season, a weak liquid fertilizer may be applied, but only when the mix is damp, or the roots will burn. Such applications should cease during the dormant period (winter). Pinching out improves branching and bushiness, and pruning improves the shape. Damaged or aging leaves and spent flowers should be removed. In general, these plants are remarkably free of disease. Attention to the above requirements will go a long way toward preventing mildew, the main problem that can occur.

Non-tuberous begonias by type All begonias, mentioned below, are suitable for container culture and may be grown as houseplants. Cane-like Today, over 200 species and cultivars are known in this group, so named because of their stiff cane-like stems. Many of the Cane-like species grown, nowa-days originated in Brazil, with most of the plants in this group having been discovered in the 19th century. They are deservedly popular for their graceful, pendulous clusters of flowers, which last for long periods in the warmer areas, and range in flower color from white through pink to salmon-orange. The leaves, which vary considerably in shape, often have attractive silver or white dots and markings. Plants can vary in size from a mere 12 in (30 cm) tall to in excess of 15 ft (4.6 m) high when grown outdoors in warmer climates. The Superba types are the tallest growing and generally have spotted leaves, while the Mallet types are squatter, not growing much above 24 in (60 cm). These mostly have lovely mahogany-red foliage covered in red hairs.

In addition, there are many other types generally grouped under the description of low-, medium- and tall- growing. A number are popularly known as "Angel Wing" begonias, and others as "Tree" begonias. Canes do well in both containers and open ground but, as these plants are deep-rooted, containers should be large enough to accommodate a fairly large root system. Repotting from time to time is desirable, particularly in spring. Propagation by cuttings is relatively easy, and the best results will be achieved using tip cuttings taken from growing shoots. These should be cut to a length that includes three nodes, cutting just below the lower node. Leaves are stripped from the bottom of the stem, leaving only two or three, and the lower portion of the stem is inserted into the rooting medium. Roots will appear in three to four weeks. Leaf cuttings are not recommended. Shrub-like The second largest begonia group is the Shrub-like, which now numbers about 300 species and hybrids. Apart from a small number that have their origin in Asia and Africa, Central and South America were the source.

As early as 1688 in Jamaica, the physician and naturalist Hans Sloane discovered Begonia acutifolia, which is still grown today. Plants in this group have woody stems and excellent foliage, which ranges from being extremely hairy to totally bare. Leaves are quite varied in shape, size, and texture. The plants flower really well if a good general fertilizer is applied regularly. Flower colors are generally in the range of white, cream or pink, although a few are available in other shades such as yellow and salmon. As their name would suggest, they tend to be bushy plants, producing shoots at the base. They often have dense growth and make good container specimens. When grown outdoors, the bare-leaved varieties are able to tolerate more direct sunlight than their hairy counterparts, due to the reflective nature of the leaf surface. The preferred method of propagation is by taking cuttings, using the tips removed when pruning. The shoots are cut 2-3 in (5-7 cm), leaving two or three leaves, and the lower half of the stem is inserted into the rooting medium. Roots will appear in three to four weeks.

Thick-stemmed This is a relatively small group of 70 or so different species and hybrids not widely known or popular, being grown by collectors mainly for their curiosity value. As their name would suggest, they have thick stems from base to tip. They do make good container plants, but are fussy about good light. Some varieties can grow to 6 ft (1.8 m) in height even in containers. Therefore, care is needed when selecting which ones to grow. Almost all have large- to medium-sized leaves. When propagating, the best results are obtained from leaf cuttings because of the thickness of the stems and the position of the leaves at the extremities of these. Trailing-scandents Although there is not a wide selection in this group, they are well worth growing, particularly the fragrant types. Most of them originate from South America. The stems are long, and the leaves small. Some of the newer hybrids have attractively marked and colored leaves. They bloom in various seasons, and most have clusters of flowers. The Trailing scandents often make good hanging basket plants, while others can be trained as climbers in and around the garden, depending on climatic conditions. They also make good houseplants.

These begonias propagate very easily from tip and stem cuttings taken during pruning. Treat the cuttings as for Shrub-like. Rhizomatous Many hundreds of species and hybrids make this by far the largest group, Rhizomatous begonias, are grown mainly for their attractive leaves and foliage. Mexico is the source of most, and quite a number of the early discoveries (before 1850) are still popular today, together with the many hybrids that have been developed. Leaf colors, textures, patterns and size are highly varied, which is why they are so popular as houseplants. However, some varieties grow quite large, with leaves exceeding 18 in (45 cm), so are suitable only for the outdoors. Most of the flowers are insignificant and grow on long stems above the plant foliage. However, these can add to the beauty of the whole plant, especially as most flower in late winter and early spring when other plants are less obliging. The characteristic rhizome of the species is a procumbent or subterranean, root like stem, which produces roots from its lower surface and leaves and shoots from the upper.

The group is subdivided into those with erect and those with creeping rhizomes, the latter type tending to look both bushy and compact. Over-watering these plants, especially during the winter months, tends to produce rot in the rhizome. The group prefers humidity at the higher end of the recommended scale for begonias (60-70 percent). A small amount of fertilizer can be given during active growth. Repotting is advisable only in the springtime. Rex Cultorum In the 19th century, B. rex plants, grown solely for their foliage, were very highly sought after and were hybridized in the hundreds. Today's hybrids contain the genes of as many as 15 other species of begonias and the group, now consisting solely of hybrids, is known as Rex Cultorum. In the main, Rex Cultorum are rhizomatous, although some that were developed by crosses with tuberous and semi-tuberous begonias are not strictly so. Because today's hybrids come from such a broad breeding spectrum, they are highly varied. These plants are grown solely for their foliage, which is truly magnificent.

The colors of the leaves can range through green, red, pink and lavender to silver and even black. Although leaf size and growth habit is so diverse, they can be easily identified as a Rex by their distinctive leaf shape. Rex begonias enjoy slightly warmer conditions, around 75ï¿½F (24ï¿½C); they do not like hot temperatures, but will survive down to 50ï¿½F (10ï¿½C) or lower, as long as they are not frosted. Their main love is humidity-generally around 60 percent is ideal, but some varieties like it even higher. They also prefer high light levels but not direct sunlight. Good ventilation is essential to prevent attacks of mildew, and care when watering, to avoid wetting the leaves, will also help. These plants do have a dormant period over the cooler winter months, when they prefer to be kept on the dry side and not given any supplementary food, but even at this time the humidity must be maintained. In the spring, plants should be repotted into a free-draining open mix; some coarse grit or charcoal added to the mix will be helpful.

Do not compress the mix with the fingers when repotting, but leave it light and fluffy. In spring, biweekly feeds of a 20-20-20 NPK fertilizer at half strength may be given, but high nitrogen fertilizers should be avoided so the plant stays tight and compact. As the summer progresses, the feeding should be reduced. Pruning in the winter will keep the plants tidy. If the rhizome becomes dry and gnarled, it is best to replace the plant with one that is younger and more vigorous. Plants can be propagated very easily by leaf cut- tings or by stem cuttings from sections of the rhizome. Most growers prefer the leaf cutting, which, although somewhat slower, produces new plants in larger numbers. Various methods can be used for taking the leaf cuttings: Cut a leaf, shorten the stem, and insert it into a small container of sand, pumice or other propagating mix. Nick the veins on the underside of a leaf, lay it on damp sand, and weight it down with pebbles to ensure the cuts contact the sand. Cut a leaf in "V" sections from the stem to the outer edge and insert these wedges into the propagating mix.

In all cases, rooting should take three to four weeks. Semperflorens (Wax or Bedding begonias) This group is the most widely known of all begonia types. As well as being popular with the home gardener, they make a wonderful mass display in public gardens and parks. The term Semperflorens aptly means "ever-flowering". Following the original crosses in 1878, hybridizing continued over many years to produce the Semperflorens varieties of today. The name Semperflorens Cultorum was adopted in 1945 for this group. There are still a number of Semperflorens species obtainable, but, although some are dwarfish, most tend to be taller than the modern hybrids, growing up to 2 ft (60 cm) in some cases. These are grown mainly by people who specialize in original plants. Semperflorens now come in a range of colors-catalog examples include white, clear pink, rose, white with margin (rose, scarlet, and salmon-red), salmon or salmon-orange. All have attractive foliage, with green, variegated or bronze available. A recent introduction has been a double-flowered variety in pink, red or white.

The Semperflorens hybrids generally grow to about 8 in (20 cm), allowing them to be effective as border plants. As well as being grown en masse, Semperflorens make excellent container plants, either as a border around a large container or even inserted into sphagnum moss around the sides of hanging baskets, where they make an attractive display. They are equally as good in individual containers. So versatile are they, their use is only restricted by the whim of the grower. Semperflorens must be grown in good light or they will become leggy. They are relatively tolerant of heat, so can be grown in full sun, although it is preferable to accustom them gradually to these conditions. If planted in groups, a spacing of 8 in (20 cm) is required to allow the plants to spread. Semperflorens are bushy by nature, but pinching out the growing tips of the stems and the buds as they appear will significantly improve the quality of the blooms on each plant and will ensure that it will be very bushy and floriferous. This may be done up to three times, two weeks apart. Semperflorens are fibrous-rooted, so in the main are treated as annual plants.

However, in warmer climates, where there are no frosts, they can be cut back by about two-thirds if they become too tailor leggy, and they will grow again in a very short time. Even in areas where frosts may occur, if grown in the garden, they can be covered with straw, which will give them protection, allowing them to regenerate again in the spring. If they have been grown in containers, they should be moved into shelter for the winter when frosts are anticipated, that is, when the temperature is forecast to drop to 24ï¿½F (5ï¿½C) and the weather is clear. If a heated greenhouse is available, the plants can be moved there for the winter months, thus ensuring continuous color. Semperflorens grown in containers in a good potting mix to which sufficient controlled- release fertilizer has been added should require no further fertilizing; likewise in the garden bed, provided it has been well prepared and fertilized. If supplements are considered necessary, a weak dose of fertilizer with a high potassium content may be applied every three weeks. As a group, they are susceptible to fungal diseases such as mildew and botrytis.

A spraying program may be adopted to overcome this problem, particularly where there is a big variation between the day- and night-time temperatures. To further reduce the incidence of these diseases, refrain from overhead watering, which wets the foliage. A trickle or ground-soaking water system is recommended, as this keeps the root structure damp and cool and reduces the danger of fungal problems. Propagation of the modern hybrid types is done mainly from seed, since they are so easy to grow. Cuttings may also be taken, or, when the plant is of a sufficient size, it may be divided using a sharp spade or knife. With the natural species, plant propagation is from cuttings, either by removing the tips or by taking basal shoots from around the base, with the best results achieved from basal cuttings. Different Types of Begonias | DoItYourself.com × Different Types of Begonias Different Types of Begonias There are more than 900 species of begonias and many of them are commonly grown in household gardens. Begonias are popular, as they need basic care, minimal fertilization and bloom nearly throughout the year. There is some confusion regarding the classification of begonias as many varieties have unique features.

However, now the following types of begonias are universally accepted: 1. Tuberous Begonias — these are hybrids of native South American begonias. Large flowers are the defining feature of tuberous begonias. Grow well in semi-shaded areas and need protection against strong winds. Winter frost could immediately kill them — need insulation during winters. 2. Rex Begonias — not famous for their flowers but their exotic foliage. Leaves have a bright-green shade that is uncommon in most begonias. Regarded as a difficult plant to grow since the temperatures sensitivity is higher than other begonias. Need sustained moist conditions with humidity around 70%. 3. Cane-like Begonias — the stem is very stiff and can withstand the strongest of winds, giving this begonia its defining name. They are also called angel wing begonias and true-tree begonias. One of the few begonias that is suited for both outdoor gardens and pots. Mature angel wings can reach a height of about 10 feet. 4. Semperflorens Begonias — usually called wax or bedding begonias. Grown mainly for their bronze and green-colored foliage.

Ideal for dry conditions — can withstand small episodes of droughts too. 5. Rieger Begonias — also called Blush or Hiemalis begonias. One of the few winter-flowering begonias. It can be killed by the slightest amount of water stagnation. The flower hues are varied, ranging from scarlet to pinks and pastels. 6. Trailing Begonias — also called Trailing Scandents. Used for decoration purposes, typically in hanging baskets. Can also be used as climbers in the garden. Propagating them in the garden easy by using stem or tip cuttings. 7. Shrub Begonias — almost an identical image of the Trailing Scandents but they have a thicker foliage. They flower occasionally but mostly grown for their lavish leaves and thick stems. Ideal for potting and being placed indoors — being constantly shaded is not an issue. 8. Thick-stem Begonias — the classification status of this variety is still not clear. Refers to all the wild-growing begonias that have thick stems, rising up to 8 feet or more, and still haven’t been grouped under any of the above-mentioned begonia types.

Hanging Around with the Trailing Scandents by Bill and Mimi Schramm Did you ever go to a nursery and ask for a trail ing-scandent plant and get a blank look in return? Let's face it, the name for this group of interesting begonias is a bit strange. The trailing part of the name means handing. Think of a grape ivy with lots of flowers. Scandent refers to climbing as with a real ivy climbing up a wall. One of our favorite trailing-scandent plants is B. solananthera which, according to the Thompson's Begonias, is a species from Brazil which was found in 1853 and introduced to cultivation in the gardens of the Schoenbrunn Palace in Vienna, Austria. We grow ours in an unheated greenhouse in the winter and in a lath area the rest of the year. It has done very well although our home is clearly not a palace. It has lots of fragrant flowers in the winter and spring. The flowers are white with a red center. Another trailingscandent that has done well for us is B. 'Splotches' which is a Leslie Woodriff cultivar (B.

solananthera x B. radicans syn. B. limmingheana). The name comes from the pink and white splotches on the leaves. The flowers, which are profuse in he spring and summer, are white with pink edges. It is hard to tell from the picture, but the plant is over four feet long. Trailingscandent begonias have same growing requirements as most begonias, but you need to be careful about it getting too hot because they will dry out and burn quickly. Protect them from the midday sun. In addition to the two described above we also grow B. 'Fragrant Beauty' and B. 'Ellen Dee'. Cathedral Bells, Cup and Saucer Vine Cobaea scandens Neutral On Feb 5, 2016, coriaceous from ROSLINDALE, MA wrote: A fast growing annual over most of North America, it takes longer to bloom than most annual climbers and may not bloom before frost hits in the north. It climbs by tendrils. It can grow as much as 40' tall in a single season, and grows as much as 10' wide if the tip is pinched back early.

In frost free areas, it is evergreen. In New Zealand, this is a noxious weed and considered invasive of the natural environment. [ HYPERLINK@ ] Positive On Mar 16, 2015, rachelrapunzel from Rugby, ND wrote: I grew this many years ago when I was a teenager in a pot in my bedroom in northern MN in a SE facing window but shaded by trees so just a few hours of sun. I cannot remember how long it took to bloom (this was about 20 years ago) but I will never forget how beautiful it was! It was loaded with blossoms it seemed for months and months. And it lived until it died of neglect (teenager) I finally ordered seeds again. I appreciate all the growing tips on here as I think I had such success with it by sheer luck when I was younger and hope to use all the advice to hopefully enjoy it as much as I did then.

Positive On Dec 25, 2014, pmmGarak from G�ppingen, Germany (Zone 7b) wrote: after years of no no flowers until end of October on a south balcony, I placed this years plant in a container on a perfect east wall, so full sun until 12 pm, and none after. This time it started flowering in July and did not stop till late November. I kept it rather dry, that's why the foliage turned dark red starting in August - rather beautiful! I'm trying to get through winter at about 12 degrees C in a bright room - looks quite alive up to now. Positive On Aug 31, 2013, gypsiekaye from ALLYN, WA wrote: I bought this little vine in a 4 inch pot. It was planted in a 14" pot and is climbing on a post at the end of my patio. It was planted in late June and has 6 blooms and was half eaten by a little deer.

I love it and am going to try and winter over Neutral On Nov 2, 2012, imagrndma from MARCOLA, OR wrote: "Neutral" experience.......so far! This looked like such an awesome flower & a vine as well. I thought it couldn't get much better! The plant seems to like a little bit of neglect, but not TOO much! I put it in 2 different spots - one with lots of sun & the other with sun only from 10 - 12 am. The one in the sun grew a spindly vine about 1 foot high (at the most!), with tiny little leaves & then just stopped growing. The one in mostly shade, although it was in bright light, grew quite well. I planted them sometime in late June, the shade one next to a pole and poles beside the ramp to my porch. Once it got past the 2 ft. mark, it grew soooo fast! I wound it back & forth through the poles & then when I reached the end of the ramp, turned it back the other way. I've got v ... read more ines along that ramp that must be 15+ feet long!

The disappointment came when I started looking for the blossoms.Like everyone else - I couldn't find any. I have grown (& even sold) plants since I was a young girl, so have quite a green thumb. I couldn't figure out why this wasn't getting any flowers! No buds....NOTHING! That is - until the end of October!! Now it's November & it has buds all over it! They look like my Passion Flower buds - really cute! And all the little tendrils, like gourds or pumpkin curly-cues. Would be great if they could be dried! I'm in Oregon, so have mostly mild winters. I'm hoping that if I cover this plant, it won't die & will pick up where it leaves off this year. If anyone else has had this type of experience with this plant - any luck keeping it through the winter w/out it dying back? If so, what did you do to protect it? Let's put our heads together and figure out the best way to get blooms from this plant in my type of conditions (Oregon). It's so beautiful it will be well worth the effort!

Positive On Jun 28, 2012, MTVineman from Helena, MT (Zone 5a) wrote: I have about four of these growing like mad on my back veranda. I started them all from seed and every one of them came up, although I at first thought I had failed since they took a while to come up! I did plant them on their sides, too. Now they are covering the trellis I made on the veranda and they are flowering beautifully. Here in Helena, Montana, no one knows of or has seen one of these vines. People are constantly stopping and asking what they are and where to get one or eight! My Hummers and my bee's love them. Other birds seem to be interested too although I don't know why. I will definitely try to overwinter these inside somewhere and will be growing them again! Excellent and fabulously beautiful vine. One of them is growing up into my Sassafras tree too. Looks really nice. Neutral On Oct 25, 2011, GrannyAnnie from Trail, OR wrote: I am attempting to learn how to pollinate cobaea by hand. So far I am finding nothing at all.

Can any one tell me how or tell me where to find the info? Please & thank you. Neutral On Apr 22, 2011, SilkKnoll from Tuskegee, AL (Zone 8a) wrote: Too late flowering for a vine that takes up so much space for the whole growing season. Even when it blooms, the bloom-to-foliage ratio is much too low for me, though individual blooms have an interesting and attractive form. Positive On Mar 13, 2011, jrtinker from Palmer, AK (Zone 3b) wrote: We grow this as an annual in Alaska. It needs to be started indoors in February in order to get blooms in June and July, and performance depends on weather. It likes hot sunny days, and does best when planted againt the foundation of a building or support it can climb. A single plant can grow 20 to 40 feet high and 6 to 10 feet wide if it is happy. It rarely produces seed here, but if grown in a container it can be brought inside in the fall to let the pods ripen. It will go dormant, and can sometimes be wintered over in a cool garage.

I know one school teacher who grows it in her elementary classroom all winter long. Neutral On Sep 27, 2010, Mkoertje from Tracy, CA wrote: Early last spring started seeds for about the 5th time in the last 10 years. Ended up with about 6 plants in peat pots. Transplanted 2 into large pots, the other two in very poorly cultivated clay soil. The two in the soil have grown by leaps and bounds next to a stone wall and covering the metal fencing above. Have one left in pot, it is not flowering but vining well. My problem is leaf damage in places all of the leaves turn papery white..i do get new shoots from the vines. Almost afraid to spray with anything that might harm the plant. Positive On Sep 17, 2010, Chthonica from Redwood City, CA wrote: I was given a gift of two tiny peat pots about a year ago. I planted them and forgot them. Suddenly about six months ago, I noticed a two inch vine on the trellis. Now, our upper deck is consumed, the vines have raced up the walls!

and are headed for the defunct 80s style satellite dish on our roof. We're talking about 50 plus feet. The flowers are a beautiful deep violet. We can sit outside and watch green- and red-throated hummingbirds, and fat bumblebees "working" the blossoms for hours. Just today I noticed the pods. Can't wait to harvest seeds! The best no-fuss plant I've ever cultivated. Positive On May 12, 2010, bucky181 from Moose Jaw, Canada wrote: I planted one last summer and it grew faster than any vine I have ever had. It was beautiful and very interesting. I have 12 plants ready to go outside today and am hoping they completely cover my fence by fall! I wish they were perennials! We are in area 3.

Positive On Nov 14, 2009, Treehugger178 from Hendersonville, NC wrote: My sister gave me two seeds last spring and I planted them in a pot on my deck which is the only place where I get some sun...The plant had a few flowers in the spring and nothing in the summer, then to my great surprise this plant sprung lots and lots of flowers in the fall, it is now November here in the mountains of NC..I have been trying to get some pods to dry on the vine so I can collect seeds but the flower part drops off...I have several pods that have not opened and was wondering if these would have seeds in them IF I took them off the vine..Any help would be greatly appreciated... Positive On Oct 26, 2009, AnnaMontana from Helena, MT wrote: I started the seeds in February and planted the seedlings outside in May. They grew great vines, but no flowers. Since it gets cold here rather early, and the vines were so healthy, I brought them inside and placed them on some very large ficus bushes I have inside. They are growing fabulously and have had a few flowers.

I am hoping they will grow all winter and flower now and then. So lovely. Positive On May 29, 2009, manchild from Portland, OR wrote: Hasn't bloomed yet, but these things are growing VERY fast. Began with starts in 4" pots from a local nursery, kept them in a window in the kitchen for a few weeks until I had trellis setup outside for them. now that they're in full sun, you can practically watch them grow tendrils before your eyes. They're already almost 2' tall. Positive On Oct 19, 2008, Katye from Kirkland, WA (Zone 7b) wrote: Started indoors the beginning of March under grow lights. Germination rate: 2 sprouted out of 12, all planted on their sides. Both went outside at the end of April - only 1 thrived. Because it's a vine, I did not expect much the first couple months as the roots need to get established. It wasn't until late July that I saw any measurable increase in growth: it just took off. We had a very cool summer, so I wasn't sure what to expect.

But I am so glad I grew it: it gave a lot for so little. In September (we finally had our "summer"), it started to flower & has been going strong ever since. I'm bummed because it will not survive the winter here, but I will start from seed again in 2009. All stages of growth are exceptional: colour of stems & foliage, the sta ... read more ges of the flower from bud to well, I'm waiting for the seed pods to turn. I didn't realize the flowers change colour as they're progressing through opening. No fragrance detected. Definitely one of those stand-alone vines: don't plant it near anything you don't want swallowed up! When the winds were blowing hard here a couple weeks back, the Cobaea kept the metal trellis from keeling over. Very strong... Positive On Aug 15, 2007, Joy from Kalama, WA (Zone 8b) wrote: I started this from seed in the spring of 2006. I grew it in a large container. It didn't grow that much that summer and didn't flower at all.

So at the end of the growing season I moved it to an unheated shed where I winter over my tender plants. This year (2007) it has really taken off and is covered in flower buds. I'm anxiously awaiting my first flowers on this beautiful vine. Positive On Feb 13, 2007, HgNi2006 from Vallejo, CA wrote: I first got this in a small pot from the Luther Burbank Gardens in Santa Rosa. Because I rented my house then, I kept two of them in pots, so they never got very big. When I bought a house the first plant I planted was cup and saucer, and it took off like wildfire. It's now all over my trellis and arbor--about 25' and still hauling butt. We had two weeks of freezing weather in January and I was so worried it'd die, but only the leaves on top of the arbor died--it's still flowering like mad now, in February. I love this! I'm not going to cut it back...as far as I'm concerned it can keep going!

One little caveat is that you need to remove it from anything you don't permanently want it adhered to--like our gas grill. Positive On Jan 23, 2006, berkeleygarden from Berkeley, CA (Zone 10a) wrote: I am growing this on a driveway gate. The Vine is so tough that it does not break when the gate opens and closes. It is still blooming for me in Jan. (Berkeley, CA) I think it is fantastic. Positive On Oct 8, 2005, alrac from wolverhampton, United Kingdom (Zone 9a) wrote: My cobaea survived the winter outside so it started producing new shoots in the spring, it has grown and flowered like crazy and is still flowering now Oct 8 2005. I have found several seed pods so hoping they will ripen. I have also been hand pollinating to help to get more pods. It is facing north so only gets the sun late afternoon but it seems very happy here, the ones I have in my back garden have more sun but do not do so well.

Positive On May 30, 2005, Shellybake from Houston, TX wrote: I planted seeds in January, left some in the seed packet next to the peat pots. Only two of the pots sprouted, but the seeds left in the packet ALL sprouted!! After planting them they covered a trellised wall and have grown like weeds. I still haven't gotten a bloom by June 1 but have been feeding with high phosporus fertilizer and will hope for the best. Thanks for all the info...just what I was looking for. Neutral On Mar 24, 2005, lmelling from Ithaca, NY (Zone 5b) wrote: I wanted to grow these so badly that I started the seeds each February for 3 years running. I had no problems with germination or the plants growing - they took off like weeds once planted outside in May and covered the side trellis in no time. But I was unable to have success getting them to flower in our particular climate. Ithaca tends (like Seattle) to have more overcast days than sunny, and I believe this is why no flowers.

I've gone back to putting Passion flowers out instead, I have no problems getting them to flower! Positive On Mar 23, 2005, goteeman34 from San Diego, CA wrote: I bought these seeds from ebay and did everything i was supposed to do. Nothing happened. I put them outside in a small pot then my dog knocked it over. I gave up. About a month later I saw this new plant with tendrils coming out of the dirt. low and behold it was the cup and saucer vine. I will keep you posted on its growth. Neutral On Dec 21, 2004, eje from San Francisco, CA (Zone 10a) wrote: I bought this in a 4" pot about a year ago. It is a tender (alledgedly) short lived perennial in my zone. It is a very rapid grower, and is now enormous, threatening to take over my neighbor's 30' tall incense cedar. It is doing well in sandy clay crowded in with several other plants and vines. I haven't had it set seed. Both hummingbirds and bees like its flowers. A little too enthusiastic a grower for small yards.

However, the flowers never fail to provoke comment. For those you, like myself, for whom this is perennial, unless you want to swing from branch to branch on its dangling ropes, cut it down to about 2 feet in early spring. Positive On Jul 6, 2004, Goochola from Athens, Greece (Zone 9a) wrote: Cups and Saucers love to grow in Athens, Greece! I started them from seed, planting them directly into pots in mid-March. They haven't bloomed yet but have scaled the wall and one is reaching for a nearby tree (5 meters at this time- I beg to differ with the height posted at 6 feet!). I made the mistake of not pinching them back and some are growing as a single "jack and the bean stalk "stem while others that happened to break in their infancy (thank you, cats) have grown bushy, with many stems. I can't wait for the flowers. I use compost and fertilised once when they were about 6 inches.

Positive On Jun 4, 2004, OhioBreezy from Dundee, OH (Zone 5b) wrote: I had tried last year to grow this with no luck, not sure if it was the seed, or human error, but I did hear to stand the seed up, so tried that this year and got wonderful germination! Neutral On Jan 19, 2003, poppysue from Westbrook, ME (Zone 5a) wrote: As Deanne stated... a useful tip for germinating the seeds is to plant them in the soil on their sides. By laying flat they'll collect too much moisture and rot. These vines take a long time before blooming so give them a head start indoors, 4-6 weeks early. Transplant them out after you're last frost date. Once established they grow by leaps & bounds! Positive On Aug 2, 2001, Evert from Helsinki, Finland (Zone 4b) wrote: This plant is from Mexico, and there's also a white form of this plant, Cobaea scandens 'Alba'. When it has warm and sunny place and you water it enough it grows very fast.

Don't fertilize, because then it just grows leaves and won't bloom. Flowers smell ugly but have pretty dark purple colour. The flowers are greenish when they open. Neutral On Aug 2, 2001, Deanne from Franktown, CO (Zone 5a) wrote: A vine growing to 20 ft. Needs support. Plant in Spring with seeds on edge so they don't rot. Germinate in 14 days. Thin to 12 inches apart. Keep roots cool by mulching around bottom of plants. Minimum temp is 41 degrees F/5 degrees C.May survive short periods of 32 degrees.

Question: What type of plants are 'Scandents'?
Answer: CLIMBING PLANTS