Marine Anchors by Danforth, Lewmar, Plastimo, Sea Choice, Sea Dog Ask. Answer. Discuss...Post a question or comment about Anchors . Products: 1 - 48 of 48 Danforth Standard Anchor, Galvanized Steel Mfr. Danforth Each Danforth Anchor's shank is made of high strength steel. Strong and wide flukes. These anchors are hot dipped galvanized coating for long-lasting protection... Sale Price From $22.02 Fortress Aluminum Boat Anchor Mfr. Fortress Anchors Fortress Anchors are made with Ultra Hi strength aluminum - Anodized finish. They can be dissasembled to store flat- Great for a back up or stern anchor.Precision-machined from an aluminum alloy... Sale Price From $141.84 Jim Buoy, Trolling Anchors Mfr. Jim Buoy Useful for Steering Assistance While Fishing. Designed to help maintain a boat's orientation to the wind while fishing, these are not sea anchors $20.67 - $93.47 Jim Buoy, USCG Approved Storm Sea Anchor, 36 in. Diameter Mfr. Jim Buoy | Mfr No.

929 USCG Approved Storm Sea Anchor, 36 in. Diameter. U.S. Coast Guard Approved. Better suited as a drogue towed from the stern, it will slow the boat down while helping to prevent broaching. $373.58 Claw Style Galvanized Steel Marine Anchors Mfr. Lewmar Claw Style Galvanized Steel Marine Anchors set quickly and easily. High holding power on short scope in a wide variety of conditions, fashioned after the Bruce anchor... $8.65 - $660.71 Delta Plow Galvanized Marine Anchors Mfr. Lewmar Delta Plow Galvanized Marine Anchors are made of high-grade manganese steel. Unique shank profile and ballasted tip. Self Launching. Low center of gravity self-righting geometry ensure an immediate... $90.48 - $480.48 Hi-Tensile Marine Boat Anchors Mfr. Danforth | Mfr No. 60H Hi-Tensile Marine Boat Anchors are hot dipped galvanized. Drop froged shank.Danforth's toughest and most durable anchors. Features very high holding power...

$977.95 Plow Anchors, 14 to 44 Pounds Mfr. SeaChoice Anchor is hot dipped galvanized for lasting corrosion protection. Quick setting geometric design provides stability & high holding power. Great for sand, pebble, rock, grass, kelp and coral bottoms... Sale Price From $59.49 Claw Anchor, Galvanized Steel Mfr. SeaChoice Anchor is hot dipped galvanized for lasting corrosion protection. Designed for use in various sea beds, tides and wind conditions. Stows easily on bow roller. Sale Price From $84.18 Forfjord Marine Anchors Mfr. Forfjord Anchors Spread wing flukes (right degree angle) prevent pullout. Easily broken from its hold by a simple heave of the line. Designed to go down fast to the bottom without tangle... Sale Price From $1,536.23 16kg/35lb C.Q.R. Anchor Mfr. Lewmar | Mfr No. 0056506 The C.Q.R. anchor has gained legendary status for its superior performance. The original drop-forged construction of the C.Q.R.

anchor increases its strength $498.99 Minn Kota, Talon, Shallow Water Anchor, 12 volt Mfr. Minn Kota Minn Kota, Talon, Shallow Water Anchor, 12 volt. Half the battle when fishing is hitting your spot precisely and staying there. Deploys quietly, quickly and automatically... $1,899.99 - $1,999.99 Panther, King Pin Bracket, Outboard Motor Mount, Black Powder Coat Mfr. Panther | Mfr No. KPMMP King Pin Outboard Motor Bracket lets you mount your King Pin Shallow Water Anchor System to the O/B motor mount of your boat allowing you to hold your boat in position in shallow water... $59.56 Panther, King Pin Shallow Water Anchor System Poles Mfr. Panther King Pin Shallow Water Anchor System Poles are part of Panther's convenient shallow water anchoring systems for a quick, low maintenance way to hold your boat's position in shallow water... $83.38 - $116.65 Panther, King Pin Shallow Water Anchor System, Bow Mount Bracket Mfr.

Panther King Pin Shallow Water Anchor System, Bow Mount lets you deploy an anchor pole up front and with a quick pin pull and a short twist, the bracket is removed leaving a clean, obstacle free deck... $137.95 - $159.64 A Boat Owners Guide to Choosing an Anchor You are here: Home A Boat Owners Guide to Choosing an Anchor With such a vast array of anchor types now available for the leisure and commercial marine sectors, choosing the right model for your vessel can be difficult. In this article, Karl Pentin, Director of Safety Marine, looks at the differences between anchor types, their relative advantages, where they can be used, and what you should be aware of. Use Local Knowledge There are many types of anchor available and each model will have its own features and benefits. Each manufacturer will understandably reinforce the particular advantages and characteristics of its own particular product, so it is probably a good idea to have a look at what other boats are using in your area, and use this as a basis for your own anchor inventory. Ask around! Most boats owners usually love chatting about what they find works best for them.

As every boat should really have a main anchor and a secondary or kedge anchor on board, it may be a useful to have two different types. Then if one does is not holding well in one particular cruising area, the other one might! Fishermans Anchor This design is a non-burying type, with one arm penetrating the seabed and the other standing ‘proud’. The anchor is ancient in its design and has not changed substantially over time. • It has a good reputation for use in rock, kelp and grass as it can dig through weed and hook into cracks in the rock. • On soft ground it is important that the anchor has large flukes. Even with large flukes, it has less holding power to weight ratio than more modern anchors. • This is a good all around anchor when you need to anchor on all types of seabed. What to be aware of: • If anchored under conditions where the boat can drift over and around the anchor (such as with changing wind and tides), the anchor can easily be fouled by the chain and lose its holding power.

• This type of anchor is more difficult to stow than more modern designs, as it does not stow in a hawse pipe or over an anchor roller. The foredeck and rail must therefore be designed specifically to hold it. • Most models include a folding stock so the anchor can be stowed flat on deck. Unfortunately this then requires the anchor to be assembled for use and connected to an appropriate anchor rope, making fast deployment difficult. CQR and Plough Anchors CQR and plough-type anchors are some of the most popular designs. The original CQR (secure) design was developed in 1933 by mathematician Geoffrey Taylor for use on flying boats. This design is particularly popular with experienced cruising sailors. • These anchors have good holding power and can stow easily over a bow roller. • They are generally good in ‘all bottom’ types, but they are not exceptional in any one particular type. • The CQR and plough anchors have a hinged shank, allowing the anchor to turn with directional changes in the tide rather than breaking out of the bottom. This also helps force the point of the plough into the bottom if the anchor lands on its side.

• The CQR and plough anchors can easily be stored on most regular bow rollers. The Genuine CQR Anchor which is now manufactured by Lewmar, has Lloyds Register Type Approval as a High Holding Power Anchor. Delta Anchor The Delta anchor is designed to self launch off a bow roller. It features a fixed fabricated shank welded to a fabricated geometrically designed plough with a ballasted tip. • A Delta anchor will slide off the front of the roller as soon as the chain is eased but it will require a suitable bow roller fitting to do this. • It has a unique shank profile and ballasted tip to make it self-launching and the low centre of gravity and clever geometry give this anchor a self-righting ability which helps it set in most bottom types with good consistency. The Delta anchor also has Lloyds Register Type Approval as a High Holding Power Anchor. Danforth and Fluke Anchors The Fluke-type anchors consist of a stock at the crown, with a cross bar and two large flat pointed flukes attached. The stock is hinged so the flukes can orient downwards towards the bottom. The most recognised brand is the Danforth, which is sometimes used as a generic name for this type of anchor.

• The design is a burying type, and once set properly can develop an amazing amount of resistance. • Danforth and fluke-type anchors have very good holding power in soft mud and sandy conditions where many other anchors may not hold as well. • They can be relatively lightweight and their flat design makes stowage in a locker easier than Plough or Claw type anchors. What to be aware of: • These anchors do not hold as well in firm or rocky bottoms. The Fluke-type anchor can also have difficulty penetrating kelp and weed-covered bottoms. • If there is much current or the vessel is moving whilst dropping the anchor, it may skate over the bottom with the large fluke area acting as a wing. • The best method is best to remain stationary, dropping the anchor vertically to the sea bed and then drifting backwards to allow it to set. • Once set, the anchor only tends to break out when the direction of force changes dramatically, such as with the tide changing. However in suitable bottom types, they will often reset quite easily. Fortress and Guardian Alloy Anchors The Fortress and Guardian range of alloy folding anchors have a reputation for offering good performance in most bottom types.

Ultra lightweight, these anchors are designed to replace primary steel anchors on many smaller vessels without a powered anchor windlass, or alternatively as a secondary kedge anchor. All Fortress and Guardian anchors are made from hardened aluminium-magnesium alloy in a tough anodised finish. • These anchors will provide many times their weight in holding power. • They are supplied disassembled in a box, which is great for stowage if you are using it as an occasional secondary or kedge anchor. • Once assembled the Fortress and Guardian anchors are noticeably larger than the equivalent steel anchors of the other types. • Completely rust proof and non-magnetic, these anchors are similar in design to the Danforth and other Fluke type anchors. However, the Fortress anchor is unique in that it has flukes that can be adjusted from the normal 32° to a 45° angle to increase holding power in softer muddy bottoms. What to be aware of: • As the anchor is stored disassembled, this could make it difficult if you need it in a hurry as correct assembly takes about 10 minutes with the right-sized tools to hand. • In stronger wind or sea conditions, the manufacturer recommends choosing the next size up for security, making things bigger once again.

• Due to their lightweight nature, it is always advisable to use at least 10m of chain with any Fortress or Guardian alloy anchor to add additional weight and to ensure that the pull of the anchor rope is horizontal along the bottom first before leading up to the boat. This should prevent them breaking out too easily. Bruce and Claw Anchors The original Bruce shaped anchor was designed by Peter Bruce from the Isle of Man in the 1970s. Bruce Anchors gained its early reputation from the production of large scale commercial anchors for ships and fixed installations such as oil rigs. Bruce Anchors has now stopped manufacturing the original Bruce pattern small boat anchor, however its copies, known generically as ‘claws’ have become a popular option for smaller vessels. Its design was intended to address some of the problems of the Plough anchor: • Claw-type anchors set quickly in most sea beds • Although this is not a hinged design, claw anchors have the reputation of not breaking out with wind or tidal changes, instead slowly turning in the bottom to align with the force. What to be aware of: • Bruce and Claw anchors are a type of plough anchor which hold well in most conditions.

However, because they do not swivel they can be bulky to stow. • Claw-type anchors can have difficulty penetrating weedy bottoms and harder mud. • They offer a fairly low holding power-to-weight ratio and generally have to be over-sized to compete with other anchor types. They do perform relatively well though with shorter anchor ropes and set fairly reliably. Spade Anchors Frenchman Alain Poiraud developed the Spade anchor in the 1990s – a huge leap in performance over existing types. Originally designed to penetrate Mediterranean sea-grass, the Spade anchor has now been proven in tests around the world. The Spade was the first anchor to successfully make use of a concave fluke, which provides the greatest efficiency – as opposed to the convex shape of Plough or flat Fluke types. • The Spade anchor’s unique triangular ballast chamber is designed to ensure that the anchor lands at the optimum angle for penetration every time. • As well as tipping the anchor to the optimum angle, the ballast chamber is designed to position 50% of the anchor’s weight directly over the penetrating tip, maximising its ability to dig in.

• The Spade anchor actually begins to dig in as soon as it lands on the seabed, in exactly the same way as your foot starts to bury if you stand in a sand pool for a few minutes. • Having the right angle and weight distribution allows the Spade to penetrate thick weed and kelp, where other anchors would simply slide over the top and gather the weed. • Once it has dug in, the Spade presents its full surface area towards the direction of load – the larger the surface area, the greater the holding power. • Any load sufficient enough to move the anchor will cause it to bury further. • Whereas a traditional convex anchor blade can pull out with any sudden wind or tidal shifts, the Spade anchor’s concave blade will remain buried. • A concave blade acts almost like a parachute under the seabed and continues to remain buried and offer maximum resistance even when the load is so great that it begins to move. • If you choose the aluminium Spade anchor, it will be lighter than its steel equivalents but have the same holding power. However, aluminium models are more expensive.

Spade Anchor models range from the smaller model 40 then 60, 80, 100, 140 and 200. The models are available in galvanized steel, aluminium and stainless versions. The model numbers are based on the surface area of the anchor. Grapnel Anchors A traditional design, the Grapnel has the advantage that no matter how it reaches the bottom, one or more of its flukes will be aimed at the sea bed ready to set. • The design is a non-burying type, with one or more flukes digging in with the remainder above the seabed. • A grapnel is often quite light, and may have additional uses as a tool to recover gear lost overboard • Its weight also makes it relatively easy to bring aboard. • The folded shape is generally compact, and is easy to stow under a seat or in a locker. What to be aware of: • In rock it is often possible to set the grapnel quickly by hooking into the structure, but may be more difficult to retrieve without a tripping line.

• Grapnels rarely have enough fluke area to develop a really strong hold in sand, clay, or mud and as such are usually only used for short-term anchoring of vessels such as small sports boats, RIBs, day sailing and angling boats. • These anchors should always be used with a length of chain to add additional weight and to ensure that the pull of the anchor rope is horizontal along the bottom first before leading up to the boat. This should prevent them breaking out too easily as the boat moves around on the waves BEWARE OF CHEAP ANCHORS! There are numerous anchors imported from India and China that are now being sold in the UK. These ‘budget anchors’ often have very low quality castings and suspect hinge designs. Unfortunately many are usually nothing more than sub-standard copies of genuine products. With no attention made to the mechanics of how they are supposed to work, they are usually made from extremely weak and low quality materials. And inferior casting processes used during production often exacerbate the weakness of the materials. If its cheap… it probably means that QUALITY WAS LEFT OUT to make it cheap!

To see the range anchors available for leisure and commercial vessels, click here or for further technical advice, contact the Safety Marine technical team on advice@safety-marine.co.uk or call +44 (0)2380 226300. For the latest marine safety news each month, regulation changes and invaluable practical safety advice, simply submit your email address. Email COMMON TYPES OF BOAT ANCHORS | Zziiggee's Blog COMMON TYPES OF BOAT ANCHORS Posted on December 17, 2010 by zziiggee COMMON TYPES OF BOAT ANCHORS What is the best type of anchor for your boat? Well, that like adult diapers, it Depends. It depends upon your type, size, location, and use of your boat. You must choose the type that best fits your needs. If you are not sure, what ever type you select, it’s best to choose a heavier anchor. 1. Parts of the anchor Please see diagram below Parts of a Boat Anchor Terms to remember 1. Shank, Crown, Fluke, Tipping ring, Stock, Rode Loop 2.

Various designs: Hook, Plow, Fluke, Claw, Screw, Mushroom Danforth And Fluke Bruce (also called a Claw) anchor Bruce-claw-anchor- by Norestar A Bruce anchor looks similar to a plow used on a farm. It has a single fluke and can rotate to different angles and still hold well, by resetting themselves. A Bruce anchor can be used on most types of lake bottoms. It has an elbow shank – two right angles – that give it strength. Originally designed by Peter Bruce in the 1970s they are popular among small boats for their ease of use. The original Bruce anchors were cast and well made. Things have changed. Generic copies are cheaper to make because they can be stamped out at the factory, rather than cast in a mold. None-the-less, they are still a good anchor. They have a limited use is soft sandy or grassy bottoms because they can plow up the bottom; not good for the soft seabed environment because the Bruce will damage plants and soft coral- it ruins the landscape below the water line. They have a lower holding power with weight to hold strength in strong tides or currents. They have a low rode angle. CQR anchors.

above photo from (This site has a good description and explanation of CQR anchors.) CQR is the short abbreviation of “Clyde quick release” anchor. Also the CQR can be called “secure” anchor. CQR anchors are very popular anchors among boaters. Originally designed in the 1930’s it has become a popular anchor with long distance cruisers, sailors, and general boaters because it can be used with roller anchor retrieval systems. CQR anchors with a elbowed shank allow for deeper penetration. It is a plow type anchors because it resembles an agricultural plow used on a farm. It easy to set because it is hinged; if it lands on its side it can still dig in and hold. The shank is hinged allowing the boat to turn without loss of purchase. The Delta Anchor, a sub-type of the CQR uses an unhinged shank to allow for a better performance. Delta’s slide of the roller easily and are thus considered a self launching anchor. Fisherman Anchor A Fisherman anchor is the classic type of anchor seen in many drawings, movies, museums, and old ships. They are a sturdy anchor used ideally in rocky bottoms or bottoms with heavy sea weed.

They are very heavy and have very strong holding power. Because of their large size and weight they are not used by small boaters. Because they are so heavy they are also hard to handle. A mechanical system, winch and roller, is used, actually required, to deploy and retrieve them. Mushroom Jamestown mushroom anchor The above photo of a mushroom anchor is from Jamestown distributors. The anchor is available for purchase from As the name implies, this anchor is shaped like a mushroom, all-be-it and inverted one. Mushroom anchors are designed for use only in soft muddy bedding, silt, or fine sand, on the lake or ocean bottom. They are not generally used for recreational boating. Once embedded, they have strong holding power. They are made from cast iron or heavy steel and weight from ten pounds to several tons. The heavier ones are used as a more permanent anchor, buried up to ten years. They will not work in rocky bottoms. Mushroom anchors can be used for boats up to 39 ft that operate in areas with soft riverbeds, or sandy bottoms.

They are made in sizes: 10, 25, 50, 75, 100, 150, 200, 250, 300, 400, 500 pounds. Can be very heavy, indeed. Larger ones are one ton, 1.5 ton, and 2 ton. All of the above sizes are available for sale from : . Shipping to your location may be extra. In order to place a mushroom anchor they need to be dragged so they can dig in. The alternative is the use of a counter weight to force the anchor to lie down sideways so it can dig in. In deploying a mushroom anchor it will sink to a level where its weight is displaced. Sometimes it take a long period of time for it to sink in. Once deployed it can hold about nine or ten times its weight in holding strength. Once deployed a mushroom anchor is no joy to retrieve. It takes some expert seamanship to get it back up.

There is a very well written article about anchor retrieval at: grapnel anchor by Attwood, available from defender.com Above folding grapnel anchor is available for purchase from Defender.com at: A grapnel anchor is an anchor used by small boats or dinghies. It usually has 4 flutes or tines on the shank and can grab at most anything. They can be a folding anchor or permanently set. They have a weighted shank so they set easily. The term grapnel is derived from “grappling hook”. They may have 3, 4 or more tines, and designed to catch on most anything on the lake bottom. Many times grapnel anchors are used to retrieve lost gear or drag for sunken items. They can set easily but may be difficult to retrieve. The are known to tangle on their own rode line. They are not much use in sandy, gravel, or muddy bottoms; but work well on firm rocky or jagged bottoms. Kedge Modern style Kedge Anchor Above: Manson kedge anchor from Defender.com Kedge also called Navy Anchor, are very heavy anchors. They are not usually used on small boats but on big ships. The have a traditional look and style to them.

Kedge anchors are commonly used on grassy soft bottoms, and also on rocky bottoms. Kedge anchors are usually a secondary anchor used off the stern to limit turning radius in tight quarters. Screw small-screw-anchor-for-small-boats.jpg Kwik Tek A-3 screw anchor by Kwik Tek is available for purchase on-line. A screw anchor, also called a helix anchor (with multiple threads), is a more secure, permanent type anchor, use for securing an object to the sea/ocean/lake floor or beach. Moorings, floating fishing docks, semi permanent piers, or swim platforms can anchored to the lake / sea bed by use of a screw anchor. Large, heavy screw type anchors require the use of special tools or equipment for installation. They are difficult to install and retrieve. Small screw anchors can be set by hand. Screw anchors are not stable in muddy bottoms because they can work loose. If the screw is long and deep they will hold okay, but it depends upon how much weight and force of current involved pulls at it. Weight to holding power are better with screw type anchors than with other types, especially in the large heavy size. Small screw anchors can be use to hold a small boat at a beach.

Hand drilled into the sand it can hold a boat whilst the owners swim at a beach. The small screw anchors work well for kayaks Danforth Anchor example of danforth anchor Danforth anchor, a generic term, is a type of plow anchor. It is the most common anchor on the market; made by various manufacturers and is available for sale world wide. It is available from marine outlets such as West marine or Defender, , and . It had two long flukes that pivot on the shank and dig in or plow in on soft bottoms. They are relatively inexpensive anchors but very popular with small and medium size boats. They are good to use in sand, muddy, or gravel bottoms. Because of their pivot and long points they are not well used on rocky surfaces. They are really good in soft mud. Great for sport fishermen on the Great Lakes. The hinge bar for the flukes is very wide and may be cumbersome to store. See photo. The design lends itself to be buried and retrieved easily. It can be dragged out if the direction of the current or tide changes; then it can reset itself upon slight dragging.

end This article is brought to you as a public service by ZZIIGGEE boat trading site Buy, Sell, Trade, Boat Shows, information, http:// . At ZZiiggee.com Blog we write articles for boaters, sailors, and power boaters. We never use unrelated false content to inflate our rating or bloat our content to confuse SEO. copyright 2010 and forward, all rights reserved ZZiiggee.com Rate this: Different styles and Types of Anchors work differently. Choosing the correct anchor for your boat. Danforth or Fluke also called Light weight Best in Clay, Sand and Mud The anchor lands on the bottom flat on its side. The rod like stock extend on both sides to keep the anchor from rotating and the flat crown pieces keep the flukes in position. The anchor gradually buries itself. Can come undone if there is a large shift in the direction of pull from the boat such as in tide change. If the bottom does not allow for digging in such as hard or rocky, or weedy, then the flukes can't bury and the anchor will not set.

Mostly high strength steel but 1 - Fortress FX-7 4lb Anchor f/16-27' Boats by Fortress Marine Anchors is an aluminium model. Best anchor style in terms of weight to strength or anchoring ratio. Easy to store because it lies flat. Very popular. The angle of the flukes is important, 32 degrees standard, more up to 45 degrees for soft mud. Both flukes should have the same angle. From Tie Down Engineering: DANFORTH STANDARD ANCHOR 8S Plow or CQR "se_cu_re" Sand and stiff Mud, Grass pebble can hold in coral, less good in soft mud or clay. When the plow anchor first lands, it is on its side but as it gets pulled the anchor rights itself and gradually plows into the bottom. It buries itself and holds well. Because this anchor type swivels horizontally on a hinged shaft, it resists pulling out when the direction of pull changes as when the boat shifts because of tide change. The CQR is a robust anchor often chosen by blue water cruisers as a storm anchor. Plow anchors are bulkier to store than Danforth anchors.

The hinge can get fouled and blocked and this can cause the Plow anchor to not set properly and drag or worse pull out. It is more effective in harder ground than the Danforth type anchor. Easy to pull up with a vertical pull. NEW SEACHOICE 22 LB PLOW ANCHOR SCP 41550 Delta, Quickset, Spade Similar to CQR See Plow Above. These anchors do not have swivel hinge but weight help them set. The Delta anchor style has the reputation of having stronger holding power than the Plow/CQR. Quickset Anchor has small fins that help position and stabilize the anchor. Spade anchor plows into seafloor and because of concave shape compacts the floor. Available in steel, SS, and Aluminium. Heavier and bulkier than Danforth anchors. Not having the hinge makes them easier to handle. Also makes them less expensive. Because of the shape of the plow and delta anchor it is easier to store at the bow of a boat rather than in a locker. Easy to pull up from straight overhead. Lewmar anchor link: Lewmar Galvanised Delta Anchor, 10 kg/22 lb.

Here is a Stainless Spade anchor link: Spade Anchor- X40-Stainless Steel Bruce or Claw, M-Anchor Sand or Mud, not ideal for rock These anchor types were designed for oil rigs in the North Sea. Smaller versions have found happy customers on yachts and boats everywhere. Because of the design, the Bruce or Claw anchor rights itself and quickly plows into the bottom. There is less likelyhood of this anchor pulling out but if it does the Bruce anchor resets quickly helped by the large claws. Useful when a short rode is necessary Not easy to store in a locker, this anchor is happier at the bow. Easy to pull up from straight above like the other plow type anchors. Rarely it collects a rock in the claws and can't set. Lewmar claw anchor link: Lewmar Claw Anchor, 22 lb./10 kg Super Max All Similar to other claw/plow anchor styles but has adjustable fluke angle. Not a light anchor but effective. Larger flukes and adjustable angle means that the angle can be adjusted for different bottom conditions. This leads to better holding in soft mud which is a problem with the plow and delta types of anchor.

Grapnel Coral, Stone, heavy weeds Grapnel type anchors are useful in coral or where the flukes can grip something. Grapnel are less useful in mud or sand. Grapnel anchors are often used in dinghies or where their light weight or small size is an asset. Folding models and grapnels that come apart are available. Not for serious anchoring unless the bottom can be hooked. Sometimes useful when there is heavy vegetation and the thin flukes can penetrate while the outside ones grab vegetation. Grapnel anchors are often seen where there is a legal requirement for an anchor but they are not likely to be used often, such as on dinghies. Tends to snag its rode at every turn! Quick Tech makes a tidy grapnel: KWIK TEK A-2 Complete Folding Anchor System Mushroom Anchor, River Anchor Silt, Mud, mushroom Permanent, river temporary Most often used as permanent mooring anchors. This style of anchor is designed to gradually dig itself deeper and once imbedded has excellent holding ability. It usually goes down They are useful for anchoring racing marks. They do not hold very well until they are imbedded in the bottom.

After imbedding they can have a holding power of as much as ten times its weight. The river Anchor is designed specifically for areas of river current where there is heavy drift conditions. The 3 blades act with a grappling action. The cut outs allow for easier pull out than the mushroom. The Mushroom Anchor does not work in weedy or rocky bottoms where it can't bury itself. Sea Sense anchor link: SeaSense 10lb Black Vinyl Coated Mushroom Anchor Bulwagga Weed rock sand Mud Better performance in weeds than many other styles of anchors. Its pointy grapnel like flukes can hold on to rocks or coral. Sliding shank (with pin that can be removed) helps retrieve anchor from difficult or fouled locations. Triangular fins means there is no position that is bad. Kedge, Hereshoff, Fisherman and Yachtsman, Admiralty Pattern Softer bottoms, hard sand, Rocks and Coral, Weeds Used for centuries they are the traditional anchor shape we are used to. Modern kedge style anchors are lighter and have been adapted for specialized use. Sharp bills and small flukes hold better in hard sand. Broader flukes and larger arms hold better in soft bottoms or rocks and coral.

Kedge anchors are often used successfully in heavy vegetation. A more specialized anchor. When not used in specialized conditions, Kedge anchors should be heavier (sometime much heavier) than modern anchors to hold as well. Rocna, Manson Supreme, Wasi, Bügelanker, Sarca, Mantus All This style of Anchor has a bow or roll bar that help the anchor quickly position itself to allow the spade to start digging in and helps prevents the anchor from dragging on its side or turn around up side down. Because they set quickly and hold in difficult bottoms these anchors are much appreciated. Rocna is recommended by the New Zealand Coast Guard. Rocna brand of anchor had some growing pains with a warning sent out by West Marine about a change in metals. It seems to have Sorted itself out now. If you buy a second hand anchor this might matter. Rocna link: Rocna ROCFIS006GS 6KG Fisherman Anchor Grapnel | Define Grapnel at Dictionary.com grapnel noun 1. a device consisting essentially of one or more hooks or clamps, for grasping or holding something; grapple; grappling iron. 2.

a small anchor with three or more flukes, used for grappling or dragging or for anchoring a small boat, as a skiff. Expand Also called grapeline , graplin, grapline [grap-lin] /ˈgræp lɪn/ (Show IPA). Origin of grapnel 1325-75; Middle English grapnel(l), diminutive of Old French grapin, diminutive of grape hook, grape Dictionary.com Unabridged Examples from the Web for grapnel Expand The Story of the Atlantic Telegraph Henry M. (Henry Martyn) Field Just as this distribution was made, the pirates cast their grapnel. The Sailor's Word-Book William Henry Smyth A pyrotechnical combustible attached to a grapnel for adhering to and setting fire to ships. The Sailor's Word-Book William Henry Smyth “grapnel,” was the reply; and Vince began to rub the small of his back softly. Cormorant Crag George Manville Fenn Another scheme was to fire a projectile formed like a grapnel. Inventions of the Great War A. Russell (Alexander Russell) Bond Mike glanced at the rope and grapnel, and then back inquiringly at his companion.

Anchors That Work Better By : Glen Law posted Sep 21st, 2007 at 8:32am Mighty Mite's grapnel design with re-bendable tines is handy for anchoring on wrecks and rock piles. An anchor. It looks like a dead-simple piece of metal, but it plays a vital role in the life of any boater. That's one reason engineers can't resist tinkering with them. The basic, time-proven designs are still with us, of course, but somehow people keep managing to come up with better ways to keep a boat from drifting off. Anchors come in a finite number of styles; they either hold a boat by weight, by hook or by burying themselves. Some, like the Navy anchor - the kind you see on the bow of battleships - use weight and flukes together, but they have limited use in recreational boating. Same with the traditional kedge, the kind Popeye has tattooed on his forearm. This is a difficult-to-store antique - effective, but clumsy.

There are some spin-off designs that can be especially handy on grassy bottoms, as their single arms can pass easily through thick vegetation, which can be a challenge for other types of anchors. The Versatile Danforth Probably the most widely used anchor on fishing boats is the Danforth, which features a pair of hinged flukes that lie flat on the sea bottom and dig in under pull. The Danforth lies flat in the anchor locker, is lightweight and has a high weight-to-load ratio. It's a proven, all-round design, but still not perfect. Consequently, it has undergone some tweaking over the years, and minor though they might seem, there are big differences in the details. In 1986, Don Hallerberg, a boater and engineer, brought the lightweight Fortress anchor to market. Today, Fortress is perhaps the best-known brand of Danforth-style anchor. Featuring adjustable flukes, the Fortress is machined from aluminum to make it very light and durable (there are no welds to break). Another benefit is its versatility. The standard angle on the flukes of a Danforth is 30 to 32 degrees, optimal for most conditions.

However, in soft, muddy bottoms, a steeper angle makes for quicker, more secure sets. For these conditions, the Fortress's adjustable flukes can be set at 45 degrees. Fortress's retooled Danforth style is lighter than ever, but features sharper flukes to grab bottom and hold on. The aluminum construction of the Fortess also allows for sharper flukes than are normally found on a galvanized Danforth anchor, according to Dan Sheehan, marketing director for Fortress. Sharp flukes allow the anchor to grab the bottom more easily and dig in faster than other, heavier models. While that's all well and good, the real advantage of the Fortress, from a boater's standpoint, is weight, or lack thereof. Aluminum is a lot lighter than iron, which makes the Fortress easy to handle and deploy, especially in the larger sizes. That it retains all the other advantages that have made the Danforth such an overwhelming favorite among recreational boaters is almost a bonus. The Grapnel Despite its advantages, there are things you don't want to do with a Fortress anchor, such as drop it into a big, jagged wreck on the bottom. Not unless you just like buying anchors.

For dirty work like this, you need something a little more suitable, and the grapnel anchor fills the bill. The grapnel is a variation of the kedge design, a hook-style anchor. Originally, the popular fisherman's grapnel was little more than a bundle of metal rebar welded together for half its length, with the free ends bent to form hooks, or tines. The concept is that the tines can be straightened under power to free the anchor if it becomes snagged, and later bent back to their original shape, time and time again. This is the anchor to drop into a mess of a wreck or a big, grabby rock pile. But even the lowly grapnel hasn't been safe from innovators. Case in point: Ken Chaumont's Mighty Mite."The guy I bought the design from was an old sea captain, and he was so tight that he didn't want to lose his homemade grapnels," says Chaumont. "So he built one out of aluminum conduit, epoxied lead inside the shaft, welded on the rebar and came up with a small, heavy wreck anchor that was easy to retrieve." While Chaumont's anchor will hold in any bottom, he acknowledges that it is a specialized anchor.

"It's a niche anchor," he says. "Its niche is wrecks and jetties." Niche anchors aside, it's important to have a primary hook that works on a lot of bottom types. As mentioned, one of the more versatile types is the Danforth. Another is the plow. Plow Improvements Anchor Concepts' HydroBubble takes the plow anchor to the next level; its float ensures that it lands the right way every time. Also called the CQR - as in "secure," the name given it by the inventor - the plow style is widely regarded as one of the most versatile anchor designs. It holds well and releases easily in a variety of bottom types. It's an especially popular design on larger boats, simply because it's relatively bulky and heavy, but can be tough to stow when space is limited. Both the Bruce anchor and the Delta are refinements of the original CQR design, with slight modifications. All have earned a place at sea. The plow works like this: Once it lands on the bottom, usually on its side, it needs to be pulled into the upright position to dig in and bury itself. This slight disadvantage was the inspiration behind the newest brand of plow-style anchor: the HydroBubble.

John Willis, designer of the HydroBubble and president of Anchor Concepts, was often frustrated when trying to set a traditional anchor. He wanted something that would land upright and set itself on the first try, but he was also partial to the plow design. And he's an engineer. "I felt the plow was the most sensible device," he explains, "because it's designed to dig into the earth - as a plow does in agriculture. So we worked out the angles and things like the area and the displacement on the computer to get the best combination of those aspects." What he came up with is a two-piece design with a flotation pod on top. The plow blade is a single piece of stainless steel with a removable aluminum shank, which makes the anchor light and easy to stow. A single shackle holds the parts together to make assembly and breakdown easy. Once assembled, the shank has a little bit of side-to-side play, reminiscent of the swivel on the original plow design, which allows the blade to stay buried even when the boat swings in the wind or current. The big difference between this anchor and its predecessors is the way it lands on the bottom.

The HydroBubble lands upright thanks to the float on its shank, which causes the anchor to descend blade-first and land upright. Once it hits bottom, the slightest tug on the rode causes it to dig in. The stainless blade of the Hydro-Bubble is especially small, which allows it to dig in more easily. It also maximizes the weight per square inch that's in contact with the bottom. Combined, these details make for a sure, fast set. "I have yet to have anyone tell me they threw the anchor into anything like normal conditions and not have it set straight away," says Willis. "With any pressure at all, it immediately cuts in. It has to. That's the way it's designed." How critical is this characteristic? It can be very important in a crowded anchorage, or when positioning yourself over a small wreck or rock pile where precision placement is paramount. Or maybe you just don't want to fool around trying to get an anchor to grab. None of us are going to carry several anchors to meet all conditions, and nobody has yet come up with a single design that does everything perfectly.

But as long as there are tinkerers in the world, and engineers, we'll never be wanting for innovation - or an anchor that does just a little bit better job. Anchor Concepts, (888) 282-2535; (800) 468-7589; ¿ Fortress Marine Anchors, (800) 825-6289; ¿ Mighty Mite Anchors, (800) 290-9293; Tags: Small Boat Anchor Types - Anchor Design and Holding Power Small Boat Anchor Types - Anchor Design and Holding Power Covered is boat anchor designs and boat anchor types and how to use a danforth anchor and the fishermans, fortress and plow small boat anchor. Danforth anchor holding power. Click Search Term for Answer: Which type of anchor has little holding power? Small Boat Anchor Design With their apparent simplicity, small boat anchors are the least understood of sailing equipment. Everyone knows what they are intended to do but there is little scientific knowledge of how they perform in all circumstances because of the difficulty of observing their actions underwater.

When they are buried in the seabed, their behaviour depends primarily on the consistency and strength of the seabed itself, factors which vary greatly. The boat anchor does not actually 'hold', but its ability to penetrate the seabed and that seabed’s substantial consistency determines a good anchorage. Anchor rode cable and chain variations play an important part in the holding power of each boat anchor type. Trials in artificial test tanks can be misleading and it is uncertain what type of boat anchor design is best overall. There will be a preference, due to experience for a certain type of boat anchor design, in a particular locality. Classification Societies recommend weights of anchor in relation to size of boat, but avoid the controversy of specifying types. A large amount of weight in the boat anchor chain is a solution whatever the boat anchor, as heavy anchor chain absorbs much of the energy of a tossing boat before this force can reach the anchor. The need now is to save weight carried aboard and many boats now carry nylon anchor rope in preference to chain. Nylon anchor rope can absorb energy by its elasticity, but has little weight in the water with loads going direct to the boat anchor therefore putting more reliance on the anchor’s holding performance.

An efficient anchor rode has a few metres of marine anchor chain, called the leader, attached between the anchor rope and the boat anchor to absorb the effects of snatch loading. Anchor Holding Power An boat anchor's holding power is dependent on the amount of anchor rode that is payed out; this, in turn, depends on the length the boat can carry and the depth of water. The minimum scope for chain is 3:1 and for rope 5:1 but it is much better to increase these ratios to 5:1 and 8:1 respectively if you have sufficient anchor rode. If anchoring a boat in an exposed anchorage in rough conditions, pay out ten or more times the depth of water to avoid dragging, remembering to allow for the rise of tide if anchoring at low water. Anchoring a boat in light weather is less problematical and for this, a kedge anchor is used. A kedge anchor is lighter than the bower (main) boat anchor and is used in conjunction with the main anchor to move a boat by deploying the kedge anchor and pulling on it.

Anchoring a boat in heavier wind and wave conditions requires a heavy anchor so choose the heaviest that be handled and carried, particularly so for emergency anchoring where a sheltered anchorage is unavailable. Small Boat Anchor Types Fisherman Anchor One of the universally-recognized boat anchor types is the [ Fisherman Anchor ], and is still popular for many applications. Either way up the Fisherman anchor lands on the seabed, one of its flukes (points) will be in a downward position able to penetrate the ground. Keeping the flukes vertical is accomplished by the stock (crossbar) at the opposite end of the shank lying horizontally on the seabed. As most of the weight is felt at the tip of the fluke, the fisherman anchor design is good on rock, weed and firm soils but has its limitations in soft ground due to the small amount of fluke area able to resist dragging. The attributes of the fisherman anchor is its dependable performance in a variety of sea beds and its ability to reset quickly if dragged out.

Grapnel Anchor The [ grapnel boat anchor ] , another boat anchor type, has four flukes on cruciform arm does not need a stock and is suited in areas of hard sand and rocks, but the grapnel boat anchor's disadvantage is that they are not easily stowed on yachts. Most other forms are classed as ‘high holding power’ or ‘stockless’. Having large fluke areas they bury deeply, achieving a much higher performance but on certain sea beds the grapnel anchor types are unpredictable in their holding power - the ratio of the force they can sustain compared to their weight. Danforth Anchor Tumbling fluke boat anchor types, as the [ Danforth anchor ] , or the similiar Fortress anchor have a hinge allowing the flukes to ‘tumble' either side of the shank, pointing downward whichever side they land on the bed. The Danforth or Fortress anchor's advantage is that this form stows flat on the deck ready for use. The Danforth or Fortress anchor is usable on rock and soft ground where its large flukes are effective, but unsuitable on hard ground. How to use a Danforth anchor to set correctly, is to lay a shorter scope initially, i.e.

3 or 2 to 1, when setting the anchor in a soft bottom. This keeps the shank from sinking deeper into the bottom and ahead of the flukes. When the anchor sets, then let out the normal 5 to 1 or greater scope. Big boat anchors are stowed easily by drawing them directly into a hawse pipe. At the limit of their holding power these designs tend to roll out of the ground and may not reset if they have collected a stone between the shank and the fluke. Plow Anchor The [ plow anchor ], although being cumbersome, has a large fluke area and is popular. The best known of the plow anchor is the CQR anchor, which features a strongly forged hinge between the ploughshares and the shank. This causes the plow anchor to ‘screw' its way into the ground assisting the digging-in phase. The plow anchor is a good all-round performer, especially in softer soils where they can penetrate deeply. Bruce Anchor A different anchor type is the [ Bruce anchor ] , with its two curved horns which rotate the main fluke into the ground. The Bruce anchor is ideal on softer ground but is uncompetitive with other designs on harder ground as it cannot penetrate deeply.

The Bruce anchor's advantage, on intermediate ground, is even if it rolls out, it retains some holding and a fair chance of digging in again. Mushroom Anchor Anchoring the [ mushroom anchor ] is obtained by it sinking into bottom sediments. Initially when anchoring, there is little or no holding power because of the amount of time required for the anchor bury itself in the sediment. It is recommended that the mushroom anchor should not be used to anchor boats greater than a small boat or inflatable boat as the holding power of this anchor is below the other anchor types. Never depend on a mushroom anchor to hold any boat in rough water or weather. Related Information Anchor Selection Guide: How to Choose the Best Boat Anchor Type | Anchoring Articles and Tutorials Anchor Selection Guide: How to Choose the Best Boat Anchor Type × I accept the Terms and Coditions Register First name is not valid! Last name is not valid! This is not an email address! Email address is required! This email is already registered! Password is required! Please enter 6 or more characters! Please enter 16 or less characters! Passwords are not same! Terms and Conditions are required! Email or Password is wrong!

Anchor Selection Guide: How to Choose the Best Boat Anchor Type This entry was posted on February 19, 2014 by Tommy C . There are a number of boat anchors available, constructed of different materials, and often with confusing names. This article will discuss the most popular types of boat anchors, the most common material types, and also give an overview of different naming conventions. Quick Anchor Style Summary Video: Choosing an Anchor Type Our video below introduces many of the anchor types discussed here, although the article discusses a few more anchor types and gives some useful links. Quick Summary Boat Anchor Recommendation For most boaters, a Bruce or Delta will be the most happy balance between price and performance. All three perform similarly and are similarly priced (Narrowly, the Bruce/Claw is our favorite of the three). If you've used a Danforth in the past, and you have had luck with it, choose a Danforth . If you've never used one before and if your setup allows it, choose a Bruce , CQR , or Delta instead. If you're a blue-water cruiser, and you have a big wallet, consider one of the new generation of anchors.

Boat Anchor Names: Trademarked Names and Generic Names Trademarked Name = Wing A special note is needed on the naming of anchors. Many anchors have a trademarked name, such as a Bruce or CQR, and a generic name like Claw or Plow. This is the same as how Xerox is a trademarked name for photocopier and how aspirin is a trademarked name for pain killer. Trademarks effectively never expire whereas design patents expire after approximately 20-25 years. Therefore, manufacturers are free to clone an anchor design that has an expired patent but cannot use the trademarked name. Bruce™ Claw Anchor The Bruce , or Claw, remains one of the most popular anchors amongst recreational boaters in North America. The author is slightly biased, as this is my anchor of choice as well. The Bruce was developed in the 70s by the Bruce Anchor Group. Once their patent expired in the early 2000s, they stopped production of this anchor but many imitations have come along since. Claw Boat Anchor The Bruce is an excellent all-purpose anchor as it performs well in most sea bottoms including mud, sand, grass, rock, and coral.

It sometimes has a hard time penetrating harder surfaces, such as clay. Due to the three-claw design, the Bruce often sets more easily than other anchors. It also resets easily if it is ever broken loose. On the downside, the Bruce has a lower holding power per pound than other anchors, meaning you’ll usually need a larger anchor than say the Delta/Wing . Pros: Performs well in most conditions. Sets easily. Cons: Awkward one piece design. Low holding power per pound. Bottoms: Performs well in most bottoms; Struggles in hard bottoms such as clay. CQR™/Plow & Delta™/Wing Anchor CQR/Plow & Delta/Wing Style Anchors Both the CQR/Plow and the Delta/Wing are a plow style anchor. The most significant difference between these anchors is the fact that the CQR has a hinged design whereas the Delta is a one piece design. The CQR is one of the oldest styles, dating back to the 30s and to this day, it remains one of the most popular anchors amongst blue water cruisers. Despite this, it has relatively low holding power and it consistently struggles in independent tests.

It’s also rare to find a CQR under 25 lbs lending itself to the saying “There’s no such thing as a small CQR”. Despite these shortcomings, the hinged design makes it more responsive to wind and tide changes as compared to other anchors. The Delta is arguably the most popular anchor on boats today, and is the standard anchor of choice used by most boat manufacturers. It has a very reasonable holding power per pound (about 50% more than the Bruce). Both the Delta and the CQR perform well in most bottoms, struggling the most in rock. Pros: Performs well in most conditions. Fits most bow rollers. Cons: Hinged design can make stowage awkward. "No such thing as a small CQR/Plow anchor". Bottoms: Performs well in most bottoms; Struggles in rock. Danforth™/Fluke Anchor Danforth/Fluke Boat Anchor The Danforth , or Fluke anchor, remains a very popular anchor choice amongst boaters. The Fortress is also a popular Fluke style anchor, different from the Danforth in the fact that it comes apart and it constructed of light-weight, high-strength, aluminum.

The Fluke performs excellent in mud and sand, potentially the best of any anchor style. The downside is that outside of these bottoms, it does not perform at well. Therefore it is a mud/sand only anchor, which fortunately is what most bottoms are comprised of. Whether or not it is used as a primary anchor, a Fluke anchor makes an excellent choice as a secondary anchor. Pros: Performs well in mud and sand. Arguably the most popular general purpose anchor. Stows easily on most bow rollers. Cons: Does not perform well outside of mud/sand. Bottoms: Performs excellent in mud/sand. Performs poorly in other bottoms. Plow Anchor with Roll Bar New generation boat anchor There are several anchors on the market today which are essentially plow anchors with roll bars. These include the Rocna , Manson Supreme, and Bugel. Each of these anchors are essentially a variation on a plow style anchor. If you look at the plow portion of these anchors, you can see they are a lot sharper than traditional plows like the Delta/Wing and CQR. Analogous to a knife through butter, these anchors can penetrate the sea bottom a lot easier than the aforementioned anchors.

The roll bar also helps it orient itself upright when setting. These anchors have performed extremely well in third party tests . The biggest downside to these anchors is that because they are still patented, they can be very expensive. The roll bar along with the elongated plow can also make storing these anchors on bow rollers difficult. Pros: Very high holding power for many models. Cons: Difficult to stow on a bow roller. Expense. Bottoms: Performs well in most bottoms. Grapnel and Other Small Craft Anchors Grapnel Boat Anchor A Grapnel Anchor is generally used for small boats such as Kayaks, Dinghies, Canoes, etc. It’s also popular amongst fishermen.They fold up very compactly and are easy to stow. A Grapnel’s holding power comes from hooking onto another object, such as a rock. When it does hook, it can create immense holding power, which can also make retrieving the anchor difficult in such cases. Pros: Great for use as a lunch hook. Folds to allow for compact storage. Cons: Not appropriate for non-temporary anchorage.

Bottoms: Rock or other situations when it can hook onto an object Mushroom Anchors Mushroom Anchor Mushroom anchors are amongst the most popular anchor used for permanent mooring buoys. As the silt from the sea-bottom builds up over these anchors, it can result in extreme holding power, up to 10x the holding power of its actual weight. As a mooring buoy, the mushroom anchor is an excellent choice, however, it is ineffective in most temporary anchoring situations. Pros: Great for use for permanent mooring buoys. Cons: Not appropriate for non-permanent moorings. Bottoms: Mud/Sand. Boat Anchor Material Types Boat anchors come in a variety of types, the most popular being mid steel, high-tensile steel, stainless steel, and aluminum. Most of the traditional steel anchors we are accustomed to seeing are likely either mild or high tensile steel. Mild steel and high-tensile steel are nearly indistinguishable from one another appearance wise. However, high tensile steel has a holding power of 2-3x greater than mild steel.

This isn't to say that a high-tensile steel boat anchor has 2-3x the holding power of its mild steel counterpart, but it will nonetheless be stronger. Both mild steel and high-tensile steel anchors are not corrosion resistant, and therefore need to be galvanized to prevent rust and other corrosion. All steel anchors (except stainless) should be galvanized. Galvanization has a tendency to wear down over time, but an anchor anchor (as well as nearly any other steel product) can be re-galvanized. Galvanized Steel Galvanization can wear down over time Not as attractive as stainless steel Looks very attractive Scratches and other damage from use can affect appearance Lightweight More expensive than steel Not as strong as steel Stainless steel is very similar to mild steel in terms of holding power but differs significantly in appearance. The shiny gloss is essentially the only difference between stainless steel and mild steel. Stainless steel is also very corrosion resistant and will resist most rusting over time. You will often see manufacturers describing stainless steel as either 316 Stainless or 304 Stainless. 316 is a different chemical composition than 304 and is more corrosion resistant. It also more expensive.

There are some anchors constructed from high strength aluminum, with Fortress anchors being the most popular of such anchors. These anchors are extremely lightweight while still offering high holding power. These anchors rely on the digging of the anchor for most of the holding power, and therefore, if they are not set, they provide little to no holding power. Marine Anchors by Danforth, Lewmar, Plastimo, Sea Choice, Sea Dog Workboat Marine Anchor Galvanized - 2000# 2000 Galv $5,961.54 Above is the price you will be charged if you purchase this item(s). We do not show this price on the advertised page because your price is below the manufacturer's suggested advertised price. Products: 1 - 48 of 48 Page: 1

Question: What are Grapnel, Bruce, Kedge, and Plough
Answer: Anchors