Pool vs Snooker Pool vs. Snooker What is the difference between a pool table and a snooker table? We receive this question quite often and know there are many people who would like to know the difference. These tables are compared side by side below. For game rules of either just do an Internet search. Pool and Snooker are similar in appearance, yet quite different. The games played on each are also different. More skill is required to play snooker than pool since the table is larger, the pockets narrower, the pocket lead-in curved and the balls smaller. Pool is more common in the United States than snooker. Certain states have a concentration of snooker popularity including Colorado, deep South and the mid-West in the United States. Once a person plays snooker, they become better at pool since the accuracy is critical to snooker. Snooker is the game of choice in Canada, Great Britain, Europe, Middle East, Australia and India. For the most part snooker has become popular in countries where Great Britain has had Colonial interests. We are proud to offer our interchangeable rail designs for our pool and snooker table plans!

So, if you only have room for one table, you can make two sets of rails for the same table. In about 2 hours, you can expertly replace your table rails with snooker or pool rails once you have built the rails. Click on the button at the right to learn more about your options. Pool Our 9 foot Mission Pool Table is shown with Snooker Rails. It requires about 2 hours to change the rails to switch between Pool and Snooker. Table Size Officially sanctioned pool tables are 8 (regulation) and 9 feet (tournament). Bar and coin op tables come in 6 and 7 feet. We offer 7, 8, 8 plus, and 9 foot pool table sizes in our pool table plans for your flexibility. The official sizes are 10' (American) and 12' (British) foot tables. Snooker tables are sometimes referred to as English Pool tables. We offer 7, 8, 8 plus, 9 and 10 foot in our snooker table plans. American Snooker tables use the same size slate as pool tables. British pool tables use 11/2"- 2" slate.

Pockets Corner pockets are smaller than side pockets. Cushions change direction into the pocket at an angle. The end of the rails at the pocket opening are covered with a pocket facing which is not seen when covered with the rail cloth. Corner Pockets and side pockets are the same size and are significantly smaller than pool pockets. The ball enters the pocket after passing through a curved gateway which is a continuation of the cushions. Unlike pool rails, pocket facings are not needed. pool pocket at an angle. Notice the curved lead into the snooker pocket. Cushions & Rails Pool cushions come in various sizes. They use good quality K-55 or K-66 profiles which are "V" (or pyramidal) shaped. American snooker tables have "V" (or pyramidal) shaped cushions. Stepped rubber or "L" shaped, is used more commonly on British tables. Both style cushions play about the same. Our Snooker Table plans use K-66 profile since it is easier to build to achieve the proper curved lead-ins using a commercially available part called "snooker bends".

Alternate sets of rails (pool or snooker) can easily be displayed and stored as a design element of your billiard room. Our snooker rails are simply mounted to the wall with removable eye bolts screwed into the sub rail. Two wall anchors with protruding screws for each make quick work removing snooker rails for change over to snooker. Notice how level the top rail can be to display our antique snooker ball set! Table Height Height specifications are measured from an unshimmed corner. This definition is based on common sense and no one, to our knowledge, has ever addressed this as a specification. American height specifications are the same as pool table height. British height specifications are approximately 2" higher than American specifications. Our snooker table plans include both height ranges so you can choose which governing body's specifications you wish to use. Cloth Green is the traditional standard for pool tables. However you may now enjoy choices of color offered by most cloth manufacturers. Cheaper cloth need to be replaced more often and usually "pill" like wool sweaters. The better worsted (yes, more expensive) cloths last longer and without quickly degrading such as Simonis 860.

Shown at right are Simonis Colors from their 2005 European Collection. Snooker requires a "faster" or shorter nap (the fuzzy stuff) cloth, such as Simonis 760. These are the more expensive wool/nylon blend or 100% wool weaves. The good news is that these cloths last a very long time and should not have to be replaced for at least 5 years with everyday play. The traditional color is green. Due to the high demand for decorator colors, a few manufacturers have added a wide choice. Balls 21/4" are the standard size balls. On coin op tables when a mechanical system is used, the cue ball is larger in order it be returned when scratched. In pool most games, 15 balls plus the cue ball are used, except for 7 and 9 ball. Billiards and Pool Table FAQs cloth effects What affect does the condition of a cloth have on play? Two physical properties describe the condition of a cloth: sliding friction ("slick" vs. "sticky") and rolling resistance ("slow vs. "fast"). A "slick" cloth has very little sliding friction and allows the CB to retain its spin longer.

For example, it is much easier to draw the ball on a "slick" cloth. A "fast" cloth offer very little resistance to rolling, so the balls roll much farther before coming to rest. Cloth friction has an important effect on draw and follow shots at an angle. With a slick cloth, the CB persists along the tangent line longer before curving to the final direction, as demonstrated with speed changes in this video (a faster shot simulates slicker conditions): In general, a new and clean cloth in a dry climate is usually more "slick" and "faster" than old and dirty cloth in a humid climate. A dirty cloth can also lead to dirtier balls, which can result in more cling. For more info, see the cling resource page . For more information on how the drag effect of cloth friction affects various types of shots, see: follow shot drag effects Cloth friction also has an important effect on CB swerve and masse shots . A slick cloth delays the curve, causing larger net cue ball deflection (the combined effects of squirt and swerve ) for sidespin shots, and causing the CB to swing out more with masse shots. For more info on the effects of humidity, see: humidity effects .

Also see the ball surface treatment resource page , because reducing CB friction has the same effects as a slick cloth. What is pool table cloth made of, and what are the different brands and types? Here's a good cloth buying guide which explains various options: cushion compression How does the cushion deform during a high-speed kick or bank? Here's a good slo-mo video of this: HSV 6.1 - Cushion deformation during a high-speed kick or bank . And here's another: And here are some actual shots that take advantage of this effect: cushion nose height Why is the height of the rail cushion nose not at the center of the ball? Here is the rail cushion nose height specification, as dictated by the WPA : "Rail height (nose-line to table-bed) should be 63 ½% (+1 %) or between 62 ½% and 64 ½ % of the diameter of the ball." If the cushion nose height were at the ball center (0.5D), instead, rebounding balls would slide more and would hop significantly if they come into the cushion with topspin (especially at fast speed).

Another obvious height would be at the "center of percussion" of the ball (0.7D), per TP 4.2 , so the rebounding balls would tend to roll away from the rails more naturally. However, this height would tend to drive a rebounding ball down into the table, which would tend to slow the ball more, accelerate cloth wear (and faster formation of a "rail groove"), and cause the rebounding ball to hop. The WPA 0.635D offers a good compromise between the 0.5D and 0.7D values. This height was determined empirically to result in good rebound performance without too much ball hop or cloth wear. drawing lines on the cloth How can I draw lines on the cloth for lining up practice shots or for marking the rack location? from Billy_Bob: I put lines on my table for practice by using a construction chalk line. You pull the line out of the spool, pull the line tight between the two points, then snap it. Then I vacuum up the excess dust. For example I place a line diagonal from corner pocket to corner pocket. Then can practice progressive straight in shots and align the balls exactly straight on the line.

Also I use "tailor's chalk" which you can get at a fabric store or a sewing store. They use this to mark hems on pants legs for how high they should be. It is white and triangular shaped with sharp edges. I use this to mark where the rack goes on the table for quicker racking - commonly done with 14.1 (straight pool). Again this leaves "particles" on the table after marking, so I vacuum after marking the table. from Deeman (concerning the head string line): They use a pen with white ink. You can get one at a crafts store. The white pen does seem to be the best choice for permanent lines although i have the standard black ones. Where can I find information on pool equipment specifications like cushion height? Here is a link to the official specifications published by the WPA: equipment specifications . how to clean and maintain What's the safest and most effective way to clean a table's cloth? from Fran Crimi: Two things you don't want to see happen to your cloth regardless of it's type, are stretching and breaking too many fibers which result in fuzziness. Vacuums with a hard pull will stretch the cloth.

Rotating brushes will obviously break more fibers than non-rotating brushes. If I were you, I'd get rid of the rotating brushes and use a fine brush on a vacuum with a light pull. Then move the vacuum in one direction down table...and this has nothing to do with the cloth being directional or non-directional. This is about breaking the least amount of fibers as possible. Don't go back and forth like you're vacuuming your carpet. When you're done with that, run a slightly damp cloth in one direction down the length of the table, always towards the foot rail, and let it air dry. No blow dryers. Vacuum as infrequently as you can. The more often you do it, the more fibers you'll break. Simonis 860 should not be even slightly fuzzy, unless you're breaking the fibers. What should I do to keep my table in good condition? from RSB_FAQ: 1. Keep the table clean - cover it when not in use; don't let food or drink near it; keep junk off the rails. Let everyone know that the table is to be treated with respect and care, then be sure and follow your own advice. 2. Avoid using talc.

Also, do not chalk your cue over the table, or place the chalk upside-down [open-side down?] on the rails. 3. Brush your table regularly (after each session is not too often), and clean the rails with a damp cloth. 4. Vacuum the table at least every few weeks with a dust buster type. Avoid using a vacuum cleaner with rotating brushes unless you have worsted wool cloth, like Simonis or Granito. Also, if you have a non-worsted or directional cloth, always brush or vacuum the cloth in the same direction, usually head to foot. Vacuum the table brush itself to remove the chalk dust. 5. At least once a month, use a damp lint free towel to wipe down the cloth. Some prefer instead to mist the cloth with a water and then brush it. 6. Wash the balls regularly, at least with water, or maybe mild soap and water. 7. If you want to practice jump or masse shots, get a little extra square of cloth to put under the cueball, or you may leave little white marks all over the table. 8. Don't let people sit on the rails - it will cause the cushions to come loose.

How does an increase in humidity affect how a table plays? With more humid conditions, the following changes occur: The cloth plays slower (because of increased rolling resistance), and sidespin wears off faster. English "takes" more on the rails (i.e., the ball "bites" more due to increased friction). Draw shots are more difficult due to increased "drag" (due to the cloth playing "stickier" with increased sliding friction). Banks go "shorter" (due to more friction and CB hop). The CB hops off the rails more (and this delays post rebound curve, making the effective bank angle even shorter). The pockets play "tighter" because rebound is "shorter" (and rail-induced spin "takes" more) off the pocket walls. The balls can throw more, and there can be more cling/skid/kick (because the balls tend to get more dirty and hold chalk residue more). Swerve happens sooner, so squerve (the combined effects of squirt and swerve) will be less. pocket sizes Are there standards for the sizes of the pockets on different tables? There are standard sizes (and other geometric specs), and they can be found on the WPA equipment specifications page .

An illustration of the different parameters can be found in TP 3.5 . However, not all tables are made the same. Rails and pockets can vary significantly from one manufacturer to the next. The side pockets are usually larger than the corner pockets, especially on larger tables; however, on many coin operated "bar boxes," the opposite is often true. Pockets are also sometimes "shimmed" to make the openings smaller to make the table play "tougher." For more information about pockets, see: "speed" of the cloth What is the "speed" of the cloth, and how do you measure it? Here's a good article from Joe Waldron on this topic, showing how to fabricate your own device to measure and compare cloth "speed." Related information concerning the effects of cloth "speed" on draw and drag shots can be found here . For more information on the effects of various cloth conditions, see cloth effects . from Bob Jewett (in AZB post ): It is also possible to measure the speed of a table with a stop watch. If you time a lag shot from far rail to stopping just before the near rail, the time in seconds squared times 2 gives you the reciprocal of the effective slope.

So, 7 seconds for a lag to travel the length of the table gives: 7*7*2 = 98 slope = 1/98 = 1.0% more or less On a carom table, it is not uncommon for a lag to take 10 seconds for the last lap of the lag: 10*10*1.8 = 180 (1.8 factor for a 10-foot table) slope = 1/180 = 0.55% Since most people can do lags and have stop watches or stop watch apps, this is a pretty simple and accurate way to measure table speed. Also, if a video has a lag, you can pick the speed of the table off the time of the video. standard pool table dimensions and required room sizes What are the standard pool table sizes and dimensions, and how large of a room is required for each?

Standard size pool tables, along with the playing surface dimensions (measured between the noses of the cushions) are: 12-ft (snooker): 140" (356.9 cm) x 70" (177.8 cm) 10-ft (over sized): 112" (284.5 cm) x 56" (142.2 cm) 9-ft (regulation size table): 100" (254 cm) x 50" (127 cm) 8-ft+ (pro 8): 92" (233.7 cm) x 46" (116.8 cm) 8-ft (typical home table): 88" (223.5 cm) x 44" (111.8 cm) 7-ft+ (large "bar box"): 78-82" (198.1-208.3 cm) x 39-41" (99.1-104.1 cm) 7-ft ("bar box"): 74-78

" (188-198.1 cm) x 37-39" (94-99.1 cm) 6-ft ("small bar box"): 70-74" (177.8-188 cm) x 35-37" (88.9-94 cm) More info can be found here: Wikipedia pool table dimensions resource page .

from RSB_FAQ: The minimum space for a table is the playing area plus the length of a cue (58") plus about 6 inches for the back swing, more for comfort, on each side. This gives: table 16'6" x 22'5" 5.03m x 6.83m "Seven foot" tables vary in size. Work down from the 8' dimensions. "8+" is an "oversized" 8-foot table. If your room does not meet these minimum size requirements, many billiard retailers will suggest that you can still put a table in, and use short cues (52", or 48"). Many people have found they are unhappy having to resort to shorter cues, and should have either gotten a smaller table, or no table at all. Others, of course, take the opposite view -- they are delighted to have any table. In the end, only you will know whether you are happy with the room dimensions and need for short cues. Before you spend $2000 for a table that will cause you to smash the walls in frustration, try this: (1) Find an indulgent pool hall when it's not busy.

(2) Measure your space (at home) carefully, including the distance from the table to all walls that require a special cue (3) Go to the pool hall with a piece or pieces of plywood or some such, and a short cue, and set up the "walls" to replicate where the walls would be in your house. Play for several hours, using the short cue when needed. Between two tables you can do with about the length of a cue, the limit is caused not by the cue, but by the player being able to go into his stance between the tables. Deluxe rooms really need more room on all sides to let possible passers-by move without bumping into the players. from realkingcobra (on AZB ): A 4 1/2 x 9ft pool table gets it's measurements from finish of rail to finish of rail.

4 1/2 feet = 54" 9ft = 108" Take the playing surface of a 9ft pool table, it's 50"x100" now add in the 2" of cloth on the cushions on the side rails to the playing surface, what you come up with is 2" of cushion/cloth on the left side rail, plus 2" of cloth/cushion on the right side rail, plus the 50" of the playing surface from side to side. Now, add that together and you have 2"+2"+50" = 54" which equals 4 1/2 feet.

Now, if you double that measurement you'd be adding up 4 side rails at 2" each...remember you're DOUBLING the width, so that means instead of adding just 2 rails, you'd be adding up the width of 4 rails, at 2" each, plus you'd be doubling the width of the table side to side being 50" twice, so thats 100"...now add up....2"+2"+2"+2"+50"+50"= 108" which equals 9 feet even, EXCEPT....we all know all pool tables only have 2 end rails and NOT 4, so in order to keep the playing surface twice as long as it is wide...you have to subtract 2 of them 4 rails as ghost rails....meaning they're not really there on the pool table, so if you take and subtract the 4" of ghost rails from the 9ft...108" that leaves you with 104", now subtract the 4" of cloth/cushions that ARE on the table, and you end up with 100"....so that's how you get a 50"x100" playing

 surface out of a 4 1/2 x 9 pool table.

table difficulty factor (TDF) Is there a way to measure and quatify how difficult a table plays? The Table Difficulty Factor (TDF) system provides a very easy system to measure how "tough" a table plays. It is based on table size and the three corner-pocket measurements illustrated below. Four factors are used to account for table size, pocket size, pocket wall angle, and pocket shelf depth. Each factor is a number less than, equal to, or greater than 1, where 1 indicates average or standard. By multiplying the four factors, you get the TDF which is a good measure of table "toughness." If TDF=1, the table has an average level of difficulty; if TDF>1, the table plays more difficult than average; and if TDF<1, the table plays easier than average.

See the Table Difficulty Factor (TDF) document to see how values for the following four factors are assigned: TSF: table size factor The total Table Difficulty Factor (TDF) is calculated by multiplying the four factors: TDF = TSF x PSF x PAF x PLF The TDF can also be calculated automatically from table and pocket measurements using the Excel TDF calculator spreadsheet or the mobile-friendly online tool provided by "Isaac" on AZB . Example TDF ratings for a wide range of table sizes, types, and brands can be found in the AZB TDF thread . The TDF can be used to adjust numbers from any scoring or rating system like the Billiard University Exams , "playing the ghost" drills , Hopkins Q Skills drill , or the Fargo rating drill or handicapping system . An effective score, taking table difficulty into consideration, can be calculated with: (effective score) = (raw score) x TDF See the TDF document for details and examples. And for more information, see: " Billiard University (BU) - Part IV: Table Difficulty " (BD, November, 2013).

All of the values and ranges for the individual TDF factors (TSF, PSF, PAF, PLF) were chosen very carefully based on how each factor affects the margin of error for a wide range of shots. In particular, the analyses and data in TP 3.4 - Margin of error based on distance and cut angle , TP 3.6 - Effective target sizes for slow shots into a corner pocket at different angles , and pocket "size" and "center" resource page were good starting points. However, adjustments were made based on anecdotal and empirical evidence for how tough a wide range of tables actual play. Many people provided input to guide these changes. Quite a few AZB users provided valuable input and feedback on the AZB TDF thread ; and Mark Finkelstein, Mike Page, and Bob Jewett were particularly helpful in sharing their experience and judgement. Some of the factors that helped guide the adjustments include: On a smaller table, shot distances are generally shorter, and everything is easy to reach without a mechanical bridge; but on a larger table, there is less "traffic" with position play and balls are less likely to cluster. Pocket size is the most important attribute affecting pocket difficulty.

When the pockets are very small, further tightening has a much bigger effect since the precision required will be pushing the limits for even the best players. And for big pockets, an increase might have very little effect for most shots where the precision required is well within the limits for even a mediocre player. For many shots, especially with a better player, a significant portion of the pocket margin is available for pocket cheating. In other words, many balls can be easily pocketed, and making the pocket smaller does more to limit pocket cheating than cause misses. For people who are not very accurate shot makers, both table size and pocket size make a huge difference, especially on bigger tables with "tighter" pockets. For accurate shot makers, a table size increase does not increase overall difficulty very much, especially if the pockets are not very "tight." Pocket facing-angles and shelf depth are more important with smaller pockets (where the pocket points will be hit more often). Shelf depth isn't as important as pocket size and facing angle, but it definitely has an effect. For more rationale and justification, see " Billiard University (BU) - Part IV: Table Difficulty " (BD, November, 2013).

from realkingcobra in AZB post : Facings play a major role in rejecting balls from pockets as do cushions. Take the Olhausen tables for example. The cushions are very...very soft, the facings are 1/8" and very soft. What happens on an Olhausen table is that when you're attempting to pocket a ball in the corner pocket coming down the rails, you're shooting the ball right into the outer have of the pocket facing with no rail wood support behind the cushion. When you do this, what happens is that when the ball being pocketed hits the facing, instead of deflecting to-wards the back of the pocket, it compresses the facing and cushion kind of like creating a flat spot at the end of the cushion, which in turn kicks the ball across the pocket to the opposite facing and back out again, and you don't even have to shoot the shot hard to get this "rejection" to happen. So, now comes in the role of the facings.

If the soft 1/8" facings are replaced with harder 3/16" neoprene facings, these facings don't compress nearly as much when you shoot a ball into them, so the balls that would normally reject....go in because they deflect off the facings deeper into the back of the pocket. from Sloppy Pockets in AZB post , concerning how to properly measure the pocket mouth and throat dimensions (at the intersections of the yellow lines, not at the labeled red dimensions): from iusedtoberich AZB post : Perhaps something like laying post it notes stuck on the cushion can extend the lines of the cushion to a real intersection point, that can then be measured to and from. What are all of the terms used to describe different features on a pool table? from Bob_Jewett: Pool Table Size Guide | eBay Pool Table Size Guide October 11, 2006 Pool Table Room Size Guide Not sure what size pool table your room can accommodate? Don't worry, you're not alone. That is one of the most frequently asked questions of billiards retailers. This page will help you sort out the options, and help you select the right size pool table for your room.

Pool Table Sizes First, let's take a look at the basic anatomy of a pool table. The Billiard Congress of America defines a "regulation" pool table as any table that is twice as long as it is wide. For example, a 7-foot table is 7 feet long and 3.5 feet wide. Standard Pool Table Sizes There are three "standard" pool table sizes - 7-foot (3.5' x 7'), 8-foot (4' x 8') and 9-foot (4.5' x 9'). Oversize and Other Pool Table Sizes There are also Oversized, or "Pro" size tables. Generally, these tables are a half-foot (six inches) longer and 3 inches wider than their standard counterparts. An 8' Pro (or Oversized 8') table measures 4.25' wide x 8' long. There are 7-foot Pro, 8-foot Pro and 9-foot Pro tables available. There are also a few less-common sizes available, like 10-foot and 6-foot tables. We've covered the first half of the equation - now we need to look at the other factor that determines how much space you need.

Pool Cue Length Standard cues are generally either 57 or 58 inches long. Shorter cues are also available in lengths from 24 inches - 24, 36, 42, 48, and 52 inches are common sizes. Putting It All Together Now that we've got the dimensions of the pool table, and the length of the cue, we can figure out which size room you'll need for a certain size of pool table, or which size pool table your room can accommodate without putting holes in your walls. A very easy way to calculate the rough area needed is to add 10 feet (because a standard cue is 58", around five feet - and you'll need a cue length on each end) to each dimension of the pool table. For example, a 7-foot table would require a space of 13.5' wide (3.5' pool table width, plus 5' cue length added to each side) x 17' long (10' pool table width, plus the 5' cue length again on each end).

Now that I've bored you to death with numbers, here is what you came for - a list of pool tables and minimum recommended room sizes. Minimum Recommeded Room Sizes See the picture below for a graphic representation. 7' Pool Table Minimum Recommended Room Size is 13' wide x 16' long 7' Pro Pool Table Minimum Recommended Room Size is 13.25' wide x 16.5' long 8' Pool Table Minimum Recommended Room Size is 13.5' wide x 17' long 8' Pro Pool Table Minimum Recommended Room Size is 13.75' wide x 17.5' long 9' Pool Table Minimum Recommended Room Size is 14' wide x 18' long 9' Pro Pool Table Minimum Recommended Room Size is 14.25' wide x 18.5' long Here is a visual representation of the three main pool table sizes, and the room required for three different lengths of cues. Minimum Recommeded Room Sizes - Graphic Representation Here is a guide reading the picture below. There are three cue sizes pictured - 48", 52" and 58" (standard).

Each is represented by a letter: A is the space required for a 48" cue B is the space required for a 52" cue C is the space required for a 58" cue 7-foot table A - 11.5' wide x 14.5' long B - 12' wide x 15' long C - 13' wide x 16' long 8-foot table A - 12' wide x 15.5' long B - 12.5' wide x 16' long C - 13.5' wide x 17' long 9-foot table World Pool-Billiard Association Tournament Table & Equipment Specifications (Effective November 2001 ) 1. Purpose The purpose of these specifications shall be to set standards for equipment used at all WPA World Championships, WPA World Tour events and other WPA sanctioned and/or recognized events. These specifications do not necessarily apply to tables manufactured for commercial home use. At its sole discretion, the World Pool-Billiard Association can sanction tournaments on tables not in compliance with these specifications. 2.

Table Bed Height Shall be between 29 ¼ inches [74.295 cm] and 31 inches [78.74 cm]. 3. Design Shall not have any sharp edges or materials that might cause injuries or damage clothes. Construction should be adequate enough so that the table will remain stable and level under all conditions of play. 4. Slates The thickness must be at least 1 inch [2.54 cm], and the playing surface must be capable, either by its own strength or a combination of its strength and that of the table base frame, of maintaining an overall flatness within + .020 inches [.508 mm] lengthwise and + .010 inches [.254 mm] across the width. Further this surface should have an additional deflection not to exceed .030 inches [.762 mm] when loaded with a concentrated static force of 200 pounds [90.7 kg] at its center. All slate joints must be in the same plane within .005 inch [.127 mm] after leveling and shimming.

Tournament tables must have a set of slates consisting of three pieces of equal size with wooden frame of at least ¾ inch [1.905 cm] thick lumber attached underneath the slate. The slate sections must be secured to the base frame with countersunk screws or bolts. 5. Playing Surface The playing surface (area) must be rectangular, and symmetrical when the pocket configurations are included: 9 foot - 100 (+ 1/8) x 50 (+ 1/8) inches (except cushions)/ [2.54 m (+ 3.175 mm) x 1.27 m (+ 3.175 mm)] 8 foot - 92 (+ 1/8) x 46 (+ 1/8) inches (except cushions)/ [2.3368 m (+ 3.175 mm) x 1.1684 m (+ 3.175 mm)] 6. Rail and Cushion The rail width must be between 4 [10.16 cm] and 7 ½ inches [19.05 cm] including the rubber cushions.

18 sights (or 17 and a name plate) shall be attached flush on the rail cap with: 12 ½ inches [31.75 cm] from sight to sight on a 9-foot regulation table 11 ½ inches [29.20 cm] from sight to sight on a 8-foot regulation table. The center of each sight should be located 3 11/16 (+ ) inches [93.6625 mm (+ 3.175 mm)] from the nose of the cushion. The sights may be round (between 7/16 [11.11 mm] and ½ inch [12.7 mm] in diameter) or diamond-shaped (between 1 x 7/16 [25.4 x 11.11 mm] and 1 ¼ x 5/8 inch [31.75 x 15.875 mm]). Any nameplates and score counters should be flush level with rail top. All rail bolts should be thus located that when properly torqued render a quiet and optimum rebound from any point of the cushion nose of the table. 7.

Height of the Cushion Rubber cushions should be triangular in shape with the width of the cloth-covered cushion being between 1 7/8 [4.76 cm] and 2 inches [5.40 cm] measured from the outer edge of the featherstrip to the nose of the cushion. Rail height (nose-line to table-bed) should be 63 ½% (+1 %) or between 62 ½% and 64 ½ % of the diameter of the ball. 8. Cushion Rubber Table cushions should influence the speed of the table such that with placement of a ball on the head spot, shooting through the foot spot, using center ball english, with a level cue and firm stroke, the ball must travel a minimum of 4 to 4 ½ lengths of the table without jumping. 9. Pocket Openings and Measurements Only rubber facings of minimum 1/16 [1.5875 mm] to maximum ¼ inch [6.35 mm] thick may be used at pocket jaws. The WPA-preferred maximum thickness for facings is 1/8 inch [3.175 mm].

The facings on both sides of the pockets must be of the same thickness. Facings must be of hard re-enforced rubber glued with strong bond to the cushion and the rail, and adequately fastened to the wood rail liner to prevent shifting. The rubber of the facings should be somewhat harder than that of the cushions. The pocket openings for pool tables are measured between opposing cushion noses where the direction changes into the pocket (from pointed lip to pointed lip). This is called mouth. Corner Pocket Mouth: between 4.5 [11.43 cm] and 4.625 inches [11.75 cm] Side Pocket Mouth: between 5 [12.7 cm] and 5.125 inches [13.0175 cm] *The mouth of the side pocket is traditionally ½ inch [1.27 cm] wider than the mouth of the corner pocket. Vertical Pocket Angle (Back Draft): 12 degrees minimum to15 degrees maximum. Horizontal Pocket Cut Angle: The angle must be the same on both sides of a pocket entrance.

The cut angles of the rubber cushion and its wood backing (rail liner) for both sides of the corner pocket entrance must be 142 degrees (+1). The cut angles of the rubber cushion and its wood backing (rail liner) for both sides of the side pocket entrance must be 104 degrees (+1). Shelf: The shelf is measured from the center of the imaginary line that goes from one side of the mouth to the other - where the nose of the cushion changes direction - to the vertical cut of the slate pocket cut. Shelf includes bevel. Corner Pocket Shelf: between 1 [2.54 cm] and 2 ¼ inches [5.715 cm] Side Pocket Shelf: between 0 and .375 inches [.9525 cm] 10. Pocket Liners The pocket liners and boots should be of long wearing plastic, rubber or leather. The material the liners and boots are made of should not permanently mark (stain) the balls or cues. The upper part of the inner wall must be so fashioned that whenever a ball hits the pocket liner wall below the rim at the top of the rail, the ball is directed downwards. 11.

Ball Return and Drop Pockets Both drop pockets and automatic ball returns can be used, but must be as noiseless as possible. Drop pockets must have a basket capacity of at least 6 balls. Automatic ball returns must be properly installed so that pocketed balls are not trampolined back to the table or off the table. 12. Cloth The cloth must be non-directional, nap-free billiard fabric which will not pill or fluff, composed of composed of between 80% and 85% combed worsted wool, and between 15% to 20% nylon. 100% combed worsted wool fabric is preferred. No backed cloth will be allowed. Only the colors of yellow-green, blue-green or electric blue are acceptable for WPA competition. 13. Fastening of the Cloth (Guidelines) Before cloth-covering the slate, a strip of canvas (or table-cloth) should be glued to the vertical pocket cuts of the slates and their underlying wooden slate liner.

The table-bed cloth must be stretched for "proper tension" and mechanically attached to the underlying wooden slate liner with fully driven fasteners (staples or tacks) spaced a maximum of 1 inch on center approximately, with at least inch [.9525 cm] penetration into the wooden slate liner. Guidelines for proper tension are as follow: 1. Length of the cloth should be manually stretched as tight as possible, and then relieved ½ inch [1.27 cm] before attachment, and 2. Width of the cloth should be manually stretched as tight as possible, and then relieved ¼ inch [.635 cm] before attachment. When covering the cushions, the cloth must be lengthwise evenly and consistently well-stretched while inserting the featherstrip as well as thereafter.

While the cloth is in a stretched condition lengthwise, the cloth must then be stretched in the width up to the moment when indentation of the nose of the rubber cushion is about to start and attached underneath the wooden rail with fully driven fasteners (staples or tacks) spaced a maximum of 3/4 inch [1.905 cm] on center approximately, with at least 3/8 inch [.9525 cm] penetration into the wood. At the side pocket openings, the rails are to be covered with a minimum overlapping of fabric over the facings. When doing overlappings, great care must be taken so that hidden folds, if any, do not cause balls to jump off the table during play. No folds are allowed in the cloth over the facings of the corner pockets. 14. Cleaning Table and Rail Cloth (Advised Preparation) The WPA recommends only the colors green and blue for chalk. A soft (horse hair) brush, a cloth-cleaner made with billiard fabric, or a brushless (without rotating brush) vacuum cleaner are the recommended table and cushion cleaning devices. Brushes that shed bristles are not recommended. 15.

Lights The bed and rails of the table must receive at least 520 lux (48 footcandles) of light at every point. A screen or reflector configuration is advised so that the center of the table does not receive noticeably more lighting than the rails and the corners of the table. If the light fixture above the table may be moved aside (referee), the minimum height of the fixture should be no lower than 40 inches [1.016 m] above the bed of the table. If the light fixture above the table is non-movable, the fixture should be no lower than 65 inches [1.65 m] above the bed of the table. The intensity of any directed light on the players at the table should not be blinding. Blinding light starts at 5000 lux (465 footcandles) direct view. The rest of the venue (bleachers, etc.) should receive at least 50 lux (5 footcandles) of light. 16.

Balls and Ball Rack All balls must be composed of cast phenolic resin plastic and measure 2 ¼ (+.005) inches [5.715 cm (+ .127 mm)] in diameter and weigh 5 ½ to 6 oz [156 to 170 gms]. Balls should be unpolished, and should also not be waxed. Balls should be cleaned with a towel or cloth free of dirt and dust, and may also be washed with soap and water. Balls contaminated with any slippery substance - treated with a polishing or rubbing compound and/or waxed - must be cleansed and dewaxed with a clean cloth moistened with diluted alcohol before play. A complete set of pool balls consists of one white cue ball and fifteen color-coded, numbered object balls. The object balls are clearly and highly visibly numbered 1 through 15. Each object ball has its number printed twice, opposite each other, one of the two numbers upside down, black on a white round background.

The object balls numbered 1 through 8 have solid colors as follows: 1=yellow, 2=blue, 3=red, 4=purple, 5=orange, 6=green, 7=maroon and 8=black. The object balls numbered 9 through 15 are white with a centered band of color as follows: 9=yellow, 10=blue, 11=red, 12=purple, 13=orange, 14=green and 15=maroon. The two printed numbers 6 and 9 are underscored. The wooden triangular ball rack is the recommended device to be used to rack the balls to ensure that the balls are properly aligned and in contact with each other. Both surfaces that can make contact with the table-cloth when moving loaded rack to and fro, should be very smooth in order not to incur any damage to the cloth underneath. Plastic racks are not recommended, they are flexible and tend to deform, making proper racking of balls time-consuming, if not impossible. 17.

Cue Sticks Cue Sticks used at WPA competitions should comply with the following during play at table: Length of Cue: 40 inches [1.016 m] minimum / No Maximum Weight of Cue: No minimum / 25 oz. [708.75 gm] maximum Width of Tip: No minimum / 14mm maximum The cue tip may not be of a material that can scratch or damage the addressed ball. The cue tip on any stick must be composed of a piece of specially processed leather or other fibrous or pliable material that extends the natural line of the shaft end of the cue and contacts the cue ball when the shot is executed.. The ferrule of the cue stick, if of a metal material, may not be more than 1 inch [2.54 cm] in length. 18. Mechanical Bridge The mechanical bridge, also called rake, crutch or rest, is an accessory of the billiard sports table and consists of a stick with a bridge head mounted at its end to support the shaft of the cue stick replacing the hand bridge during shots difficult to reach. The stick or handle of the mechanical bridge is very similar in shape to the cue stick.

The bridge head has notches or grooves, usually at various heights, in which the cue shaft can rest. The contour of the bridge head should be smooth in order not to mar the cue shaft or rip the threads of the table-cloth when being used. 19. Spacing Between Tables In WPA-sanctioned competitions a minimum measurement of 6 feet [1.83 m] is required between the outside edge of the table rail in every horizontal direction and obstacle (table, chair, rail, etc.). 20. Table Recognized by the WPA Only tables that are recognized by the WPA can be used at a WPA-sanctioned or recognized event. Difference between a Billiards Table, Pool Table and a Snooker Table | Pool Tables 101 Difference between a Billiards Table, Pool Table and a Snooker Table Categories: 4 A Final Word Even though they are based on a singular concept, billiards, pool and snooker are completely different type of sports or games. Therefore, it is only natural that the play surface as well as the equipment utilized in the game is dissimilar.

If you have ever watched snooker championships and you had the sensation that the table is somewhat unlike the one used in pool but you couldn’t quite put your finger on it, then this guide can help. At the same time, before we begin, we should point out the fact that billiard in this case refers to the carom version and that it is not a term to describe a traditional variation of pool. Furthermore, before you decide on whether you should acquire one of the three types of tables presented in this guide, keep in mind that you can also opt for a model that includes conversion tops which would allow you to play two or more games. Conversion tops constitute an excellent way to avoid spending more than you would like on several gaming tables as well as the best possible way to save space in your game room. Without further ado, let’s find out what gives billiard, pool and snooker tables their unique character, starting with the first one. What Is a Billiards Table? First of all, let me briefly introduce the principle of billiards. Like I previously mentioned, billiard is not just another type of pool, but rather constitutes the premise from which snooker and pool have evolved.

As of such, billiard is not played on your standard pool table and it has its specific surface for the job: a slightly larger table with no pockets. That’s right, because the object of billiards (or carom billiards) consists of striking the object ball with your cue ball, hitting the rails exactly three times and then somehow contacting the second ball, there is no need for pockets. The standard dimensions of a billiard table are 9.3 feet by 4.7 feet, although in the US you will also be able to find models measuring 10 feet by 5 feet. In regards to the balls (2-7/16 inches) used in billiards, they are slightly larger in size compared to the pool ones and substantially bigger than the snooker ones. However, the weight of the billiard balls is similar to their pool counterparts, meaning somewhere in between 7.23 ounces and 7.75 ounces. The playing surface of the billiard table is covered in a fabric made from worsted wool (100 percent) and is referred to as baize, rather than felt like in pool and snooker.

From one rail to the other, the surface of play on the billiard table is approximately 112 inches by 56 inches. What Is a Pool Table? The principal dissociation between a pool table and the billiards counterpart comprises of the presence of the 6 pockets (4 in each corner and 2 halfway on each of the rail’s long sides). In regards to the dimensions, the pool tables only differ slightly, the common variations being 9 feet, 8 feet and 7 feet. 10 feet pool tables are quite rare nowadays, but can be found occasionally in traditional establishments with vintage decors. In addition to that, residential versions can be as small as 6 feet by 3 feet. Furthermore, the pool table comes equipped with 15 object balls, a cue ball and a triangle rack that is utilized in arranging them before the match. As far as the cues are concerned, you should expect the pool cues to be a few inches longer and to present a thinner tip. What Is a Snooker Table? Snooker tables are considerably larger than pool or billiard versions, their height is somewhat reduced and the pockets are smaller. Because this cue game utilizes higher number of smaller balls, these differences come as natural.

The standard dimensions of a snooker table utilized in Europe are 12×6 feet. However, in the US, the tables typically measure a bit lesser (more exactly 10 x 5 feet), making the game slightly easier for beginners. The 21 balls used in the snooker game measure 2 1/8 inches in diameter, which is considerably less than in pool or billiards. At the same time, due to the extended size of the table, the cues are constructed in a manner that would permit the strikes to gain more speed: 2/3 butt-end to ferrule length ratio. A Final Word I hope by now, you have a better understanding of the Difference between a Billiards Table, Pool Table and a Snooker Table. Classic Leather & Plastic/Rubber Antique Pool Table Pockets Classic & Plastic/Rubber Pockets for Antique Billiard & Pool Tables How to identify your type of iron when ordering our pockets. Brass Plated Iron - #3 STYLE Regular Iron - #6 STYLE We offer two basic styles of pocket irons shown on the left. The Brassplated "Top Mounted" iron is a common iron in many tables.

However, there were other "less common" irons used as well. If your irons are different than the standard "3" iron that we offer, we would be happy to use your pocket irons and wrap them with new leather components. The other iron we offer is a standard "Antique style 6 iron". Most people don't know there is an "Antique 6 iron" and a "Modern 6 iron". Modern style 6 irons that most people offer WILL NOT work on an antique table. Our "Antique style 6 irons" are intended to interchange with original antique 6 irons. See here for what happens when you replace original antique style irons with "modern" number 6 irons. If you would like to have any of our antique style "number 3" pockets supplied with a chrome plated iron add $100 to the purchase price of any listed pocket below. Please call to special order these pockets. New pocket bolts available to work with our pockets under hardware section . Choose Bolt-4" or Bolt-4.5" if purchsing with pockets. Check the Pockets Before You Play... Billiards Billiard Resource Center Check the Pockets Before You Play...

Check the Pockets Before You Play... Author: Curt Riedy We strongly encourage any reader who finds this information beneficial to share it with their friends or other interested parties. Our readers are encouraged to link to this article from their own websites. Pro Table Home Use Let it be known that not all pool tables are indeed alike. If youï¿½re considering your first pool table purchase, itï¿½s something you might not be aware of. The truth is, many tables actually feature different sized pockets that cater to either the advanced or beginning players. Itï¿½s very important to thoroughly check all six pockets before you seriously consider any table purchase. The Best Pocket Checking Method ï¿½ Roll a Few: Whether youï¿½re playing a game at a local hall or making your first table purchase, whatï¿½s the best method of checking a pool table? The most highly recommended thing to do is to roll a few balls into all the pockets at different speeds and angles. This should give you a good idea of what to expect when it comes time for you to line up your shot. This method is also very effective when checking for signs of wear to both the pockets and the table itself.

Two Major Differences in Table Pockets: Standard Pool Table Pocket Dimensions Corner Pocket 2 1/4 Balls' Width at Opening (Incredible Precision Necessary) Side Pocket 2 1/2 Balls' Width (Slightly More Forgiving than Corners) Tables with ï¿½Looseï¿½ Pockets make it relatively easy for players to sink their pool balls, and are tailor-made for both the beginning and intermediate player. However, itï¿½s the tables with ï¿½Tightï¿½ or ï¿½Proï¿½ Pockets that the relatively inexperienced player needs to watch out for. These specific tables, commonly used in tournament play, demand a great deal of precision from a playerï¿½s shot. In some cases, what appears to be a simple sink can actually be quite deceiving. Just how tricky are they? Well, considering the side pockets are almost the exact size of the ball itselfï¿½pretty tricky. Most advanced tables, referred to as ï¿½four by ninesï¿½, have corner pockets that are 2ï¿½ balls' width at their openings, pretty much ensuring that the player has to make a perfect shot in order to sink their ball.

The side pockets, however, are slightly larger (typically 2ï¿½ balls' width), as they are more difficult targets in general. Thankfully, the difference in pocket sizes allows for a relatively equal playing field. Billiard Hall Tables ï¿½ A Bit of Warning: In addition, itï¿½s also not a bad idea to do a quick table check when at your local pool hall. Considering most halls tend to have 1 or 2 tables specifically made for local champs and advanced players, this is especially important if and when money comes into play. In addition to tighter pockets, these tables tend to have a felt that allows for a faster speed than your average table. You should also keep in mind that these ï¿½proï¿½ tables not only make for a much more difficult game, but theyï¿½re often devised as traps for the unsuspecting player to get caught up in a hustle. Hopefully, your local billiards hall has put up some signs such as ï¿½Easyï¿½ and ï¿½Hardï¿½ to designate the difference between these two tables.

When it comes to having a plain olï¿½ good time at the pool hall, knowing the type of table youï¿½re playing on can make a world of difference. Pro Table Home Use ï¿½ A Good Idea: While they may be tricky outside of your playing zone, becoming adept at a home ï¿½proï¿½ table will most definitely allow you to achieve a notable advantage over your competition. It may even encourage you to have more at-home tournaments. Just remember, simply owning a ï¿½four by nineï¿½ wonï¿½t do anything but take up a lot of space. Youï¿½re going to have to practice on that thing, tooï¿½so no funny stuff. Basically, it all comes down to the gaming challenge you want to face. Is a quick and easy sink enough to make you happy when enjoying a home game? Will a rejected shot caused by a difficult pocket create enough motivation to make you want to practice harder and enhance your game? Well, the answer is simple. Check the pockets on that table youï¿½re considering for purchase and see for yourself. Frequently Asked Questions about Pool Tables What size of room do I need for a pool table?

Since most snooker / pool cues are 57" or 58" in length, at least five feet of space is needed between the table rails and the surrounding walls or furniture. However there are very few recreational rooms that do not have some sort of obstacle that interferes with play. In some instances a shorter cue stick may enable play around an obstacle or wall. These are available upon request. Because pool tables are available in several sizes we have prepared a chart that shows the recommended room size for the most popular sizes of pool tables. What should I look for in a pool table? A pool table is a piece of furniture on which you play games. As such, look for the same things you would look for in fine furniture, then look for those things that impact playability. Fine furniture should be well built, look good, fit the room décor and last generations. Quality construction, slate, cloth, cushions, and installation impact playability. In some cases the appropriate pool table is one without a fine furniture look, but it should still possess the playability factors. Is a veneer pool table as good as solid wood? Yes. Veneer provides a highly desirable cosmetic appeal.

With a high quality pool table, other woods provide the structure and strength. It is important however, to know what material (wood) is under the veneer. In some cases, only veneer can provide a specific grain pattern. The use of veneer also preserves our natural fine wood resources. How heavy is a pool table? A pool table weight will vary between manufacture, style and thickness of slate. A good rule of thumb is to expect the table to weigh between 500-1000 pounds. This is about equivalent to 4-5 men standing in the same room. Better floor support will enhance the playability of the game. Floors that have minimal support will flex slightly as players move around the room. This will impact with the balance of the table over time. What happens when the pool table is delivered? The pool table is assembled in the room where its installed. (note: we do not include installation within the shipping price - Installers can be found within your local area Free shipping includes only door to door service ..inside delivery is an EXTRA $250.). Some pool tables will arrive in boxes and others have pre-assembled cabinets. The legs are installed. The table is positioned in the exact location of play.

The slate is installed and leveled. The cloth is applied across the slate. The rails (with matching cloth) are installed with pockets. Please allow at least two hours for the erection, balancing and marking of your pool table. What are the differences between 6, 7, 8 and 9 pool tables? A regulation size table is one where the playing area width is one-half the length, measured cushion to opposite cushion. The 7' table is the most popular. The 6 table is nice where a 7 table will not fit, however there is less challenging play. The 9 table provides more challenge and is thus more fun to play on, however it requires a larger room. What maintenance is needed for a pool table? With reasonable care, a pool table should last several generations. The slate will outlast humanity as we know it. The wood components need to be kept dry. Except for cosmetic bumps and scratches, there is little maintenance required. The cloth will need replacement every few years, depending on how much it is played on and how dirty and soiled it gets. There are fabric treatments specific for pool cloth that will extend its life.

The cushions will deteriorate about every 10-15 years and need to be replaced. This would also be a good time to replace the cloth, as the existing cloth will have to be removed to get to the cushion rails. How hard is it to move a pool table? Depending on the manufacture and style of the pool table, can be difficult or damage the table, if attempted by the homeowner. To properly move a pool table, it should be disassembled, moved, assembled and re-leveled. When a pool table is installed it is made level to earth and each piece of slate is registered to its mate. If a pool table is moved without realignment, it will loose accurate playability and in some cases it will be damaged. The pool table is designed to support its weight and be stationary. Therefore only an experienced pool table technician should move and realign the table. Why do some pool tables cost more than others? Buying a pool table is like buying fine furniture. In general, higher priced pool tables have more carving or intricate details. Other factors that impact the price are construction quality, wood species used, finish, pockets and other options. Its important to note that the price does not necessarily translate to a better playing pool table.

What makes slate play surface better than other materials? Slate is a natural stone, known for its strength and stability. It has become the primary material used for pool table playfields because it reliably provides good playability for many years with no maintenance. It is unaffected by temperature and humidity like many of the other materials used on low quality pool tables, such as wood, particle board, and other synthetics. What is the difference in cloth grades? There are two basic grades of cloth for a pool table. The pool table felt is not felt at all, but rather a woven fabric. Some cloths are available with a wool / nylon blend, with speed cloths normally developed in this way. These cloths would tyopically comprise of about 80% wool and 20% nylon content. 100% English wool cloth is also available and is fitted to all new pool tables as standard. This cloth would also be used on snooker tables. The higher grade cloth has a higher thread density, allows the ball to move about 8% faster and provides greater durability. The color of cloth is cosmetic. The only color concern has to do with color blindness.

It may be difficult to differentiate the ball colors against certain colors of cloth if one is color blind. BCA Specifications Mouth...................................................4 7/8" minimum to 5 1/8" maximum Throat...................................................4" minimum to 4 1/4" maximum Side Pocket: Mouth..................................................5 3/8" minimum to 5 5/8" maximum Throat..................................................4 3/8" minimum to 4 7/8" maximum Vertical Pocket Angle 12 +,or - 1 degree Shelf: The shelf is measured from the center of the imaginary line that goes from one side of the mouth to the other where the nose of the cushion changes direction to the center of the vertical cut of the slate pocket radius. Corner Pocket........................................1 5/8" minimum to 1 7/8" maximum Side Pocket............................................0" minimum to 3/8" maximum Drop Point Slate Radius: The pocket radius measured from the vertical cut of the slate to the playing surface. Drop Point Slate Radius...................1/8" r. Minimum to 1/4" r.

Maximum Playing Bed: The playing surface must be capable, either by its own strength or a combination of its strength and that of the table baseframe, of maintaining an overall flatness within a tolerance of .020" lengthwise and .010" across the width. Further, this surface should have an additional deflection not to exceed .030" when loaded with a concentrated static force of 200 pounds at its center. If more than one slab is employed, the slab joints must be in the same plane within .005" after leveling and shimming. The bed must be covered with a fabric, the major portion of which is made of wool, with proper tension to avoid unwanted ball roll-off. Commercial tables must have a 1" - 3 piece set of slate with a wooden frame minimum 3/4" attached to slate. All playing surfaces must be secured to base frame with screws or bolts. Cushion: Rubber cushions should be triangular in shape and molded with the conventional K-66 profile with a base of 1 3/16" and a nose height of 1", with control fabric molded to the top and base area of the cushion.

On carom billiard tables, the triangular k-55 profile cushion is to be maintained, with the control fabric on the underside of the cushion to effect a slower rebound action. On snooker tables, the triangular k66 profile or L-shaped snooker cushion is to be used. The balance of the rail section to which the rubber cushion is glued should be of hardwood construction and attached to the slate bed with a minimum of three (3) heavy duty, threaded rail bolts per rail. Billiard Balls: Molded and finished in a perfect sphere, with both dynamic and static balance, in the following weights and diameters and used in the following games: Pocket Billiard Balls: Weight: 5 1/2 to 6 oz. / *Diameter: 2 1/4" Carom Balls: Weight: 7 to 7 1/2 oz. / * Diameter: 2 27/64", 2 3/8", 2 7/16" Snooker Balls: Weight: 5 to 5 1/2 oz.

/ * Diameter: 2 1/8", 2 1/16" *Diameter tolerance of .005" Pocket Billiard Cues:

Question: How many pockets are there on a standard snooker table ?
Answer: SIX