On being vegetarian in France (Rosa Jackson's Edible Adventures) Rosa Jackson's Edible Adventures On being vegetarian in France At the restaurant Zen in Paris. A few months ago, my son Sam declared himself a vegetarian. Now, if we lived in California this might not sound unusual, but this is France, proud land of steak-frites and saucisson, andouillette and tête de veau. What made his decision even more surprising is that both of his parents are meat-eaters. If much of my cooking relies on fresh vegetables from the market, I also can't deny having a passion for steak tartare. At first I wasn't sure how to react. He had been making noises about becoming vegetarian ever since watching a cooking show on the television channel Arte in which a group of 12 to 14 year-olds visited a rabbit farm to see where meat came from. Picture the poor bunnies dangling from hooks, then cut to the skinned rabbits a few seconds later, ready to be chopped up for lapin à la moutarde. Who could really blame Sam?

For two years (he saw the show when he was five) I persuaded him that eating a little meat and fish is not a bad thing if you choose it carefully. But, as he got older, he became convinced that anything with a heart and a brain shouldn't die in order to feed him. When he started to categorically refuse meat and fish, I decided not to fight it. I quickly discovered, though, that becoming vegetarian in France isn't so simple. First, there was the school's reaction. The teacher and canteen supervisors came to me saying, "Is he serious?" When I assured them that he was, they frowned and shook their heads. In France, school canteens operate on the principle that every child should eat everything, or at least try everything, unless they have a religious or health reason not to. The upside of this is that France is a nation of unfussy eaters. The downside is that la différence is not welcomed. I went to see the économe, the woman in charge of collecting money for the canteen, and explained the "problem." She gave me a sympathetic yet puzzled look. "Vegetarianism is not a recognized diet in France," she said.

"We'll have to put everything on the plate even if he doesn't eat it." Thus, my son who doesn't want to animals to die for his sake still gets served meat or fish every day at school, and has to eat around it. As any vegetarian who has travelled to France knows, eating in restaurants is also a challenge. Fortunately, I live in Nice where the Italian influence means that gnocchi and fresh pasta with pistou or tomato sauce are nearly always on the menu. Nice also has one of the best vegetarian restaurants in France, La Zucca Magica , where children under 12 eat for free. Paris bistros are a bit more problematic, but since Sam is not fussy in other ways he will settle for almost anything that doesn't contain animal protein (as long as goat cheese is not involved). He is also thrilled to eat miso soup and vegetable maki at my favorite Japanese restaurant, Zen . Last night, as we were meeting a friend who has also gone off meat (or at least non-organic meat) after reading Eating Animals , I decided to see if we could find a good vegetarian restaurant in Paris.

There are a lot more options for vegetarians these days thanks to places like Rose Bakery, Bob's Juice Bar and Cococook , which serve Anglo-style salads, soups and sandwiches, but I was curious to try a restaurant with strict vegetarian principles. For once, I thought it would be nice if Sam could order anything on the menu without having to adapt to a meat-eating world. A little research on vegetarian websites led me to Tien Hiang , a Chinese Buddhist restaurant with two locations in Paris. The newest branch, not far from the Canal St-Martin, is open for the month of August when most Paris restaurants close for holidays. Though I was a little nervous about taking my friends to such a plain-looking restaurant, I made a booking for the four of us. The first surprise was the dining room, which although simple was clean and pleasant, animated by the chatter of the French and Asian diners around us. We were handed thick menus listing an extensive selection of dishes, many of them made with "pork," "beef," "chicken" or "duck." As the menu explained, this was not real meat but soy protein designed to imitate meat.

A lot of people might argue with the assumption that vegetarians crave the look and feel of meat on their plates, but Sam seemed quite excited at the prospect of eating "chicken." Tempted by nearly everything on the menu, I ordered the green papaya salad, mini Imperial rolls, tofu stuffed with "minced beef" and sticky rice, while Sam went for the vegetable maki roll and the "chicken" sautéed with onions. The papaya salad was suprisingly spicy, with extra flavor coming from strips of lemon zest. Almost overwhelming on its own, it worked well in combination with blander dishes such as the steamed ravioli. The fried Imperial rolls had a stuffing made of taro root, soy vermicelli, black mushrooms and carrot, with a meaty texture that I could have mistaken for pork. My biggest success, though, was the stuffed tofu, which arrived bubbling dramatically in its little clay pot. A difficult dish to make, with a filling of "minced meat," bamboo shoots, mushrooms and cilantro, it cost €8 and was so deeply flavored that I found myself lapping up all the sauce with my sticky rice.

Sam was equally happy with his chicken, whose texture he found amazingly like the real thing. Less of a hit was Erica's bun bi (similar to bo bun, a Vietnamese dish of rice vermicelli with vegetables, meat and fried spring rolls), which lacked the tangy fish sauce that normally gives this dish its character. Desserts are of the sort normally found in Paris Asian restaurant: coconut balls, bananas in coconut milk, litchis in syrup, ice cream. Sam tried one of the more original desserts, a banana coated in sticky rice and steamed in a banana leaf, but handed it over after one spoonful. Drinks are more original, with a selection of organic non-alcoholic beers and slighly fermented juices (there is also Tsing Tao if you're craving the real thing). I'm happy to have found a place that I can wholeheartedly recommend to vegetarians in Paris, even if I would also warn them that it probably takes a bit of time to discover the best dishes on the long menu. This very satisfying meal cost just €18 per person with drinks.

As for people who ask me whether I'm afraid Sam will be malnourished, I say: he eats eggs, cheese, milk, tofu, chickpeas, lentils, seaweed, whole grains and nearly every fruit and vegetable known to man. Will he be more poorly nourished than a child who subsists on hamburgers and pizza? Tien Hiang, 14 rue Bichat, 10th, 01.42.00.08.23 and 92 rue du Chemin Vert, 11th, 01.43.55.83.88. Paris restaurants | Parisien Salon - Part 3 Metro Station: Château Rouge (Line 4) Type of cuisine: French Days & hours of operation: Weds to Fri 7:30 p.m.- 11:30 p.m. Sat to Sun Noon – 2:30 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. – 11:30 p.m.

Credit card: Visa, MasterCard, American Express Le Grand 8 sits high on the slope of Butte Montmartre, just below the Sacré-Cœur basilica. It’s a steep climb up the hill from the Château Rouge metro station, but the ambiance and the food that one finds at this restaurant are worth the effort. The restaurant has a bold cranberry façade with one table for sidewalk dining. A large chalkboard announcing the menu hides the kitchen window. Stepping inside, one sees cranberry-colored vinyl benches against the wall; exposed beams on the ceiling that have been painted an off-white color; a smooth, light-wood plank floor; medium-toned wooden tables and chairs; and—in the back—a view over the eastern part of the city. Overall, the décor is rather simple, but, as we were to find out, the service was friendly and the food tasty. The restaurant uses seasonal, organic ingredients as much as possible, and favors organic wines for its wine list. The restaurant offers a 29€, three-course menu; some dishes carry a supplement. As a starter, I ordered Pousses de petits pois et blettes, St. Nectaire et noix.

The salad that I received had been dressed in light vinaigrette; it was fresh and appetizing. The pousses de petits pois turned out to be the tendrils of pea shoots. It was a bit difficult to get them to stay on my fork, and once I bit down on them I couldn’t taste much. However, tender beet greens, morsels of Saint Nectaire cheese, and bits of walnut more than compensated for this frustration. My partner appreciated her Asperges blanches, magret séché, Parmesan. Her plate contained three thick, tender, white asparagus stalks that had been drizzled in grape-seed oil. The stalks were accompanied by thinly-sliced, dried duck breast and slivers of Parmesan cheese. This is a perfect appetizer for a warm, spring day. My main course was the best part of the meal. The serving of Cuisse de lapin, polenta et purée des bulbes de cerfeuil contained a generous portion of succulent, tender leg of rabbit. Three dollops of creamy, puréed root of chervil and a square of polenta were served alongside. Polenta is made from cornmeal.

While I am used to having it served as a porridge of sorts, Le Grand 8 served it in a brick-like portion that was delicately crusty on the outside with a moist, sweet interior. Delicious! My partner opted for Agneau de lait des Pyrénées, semoule aux épices. She declared the flavor of the milk-fed lamb to be mild, and the texture to be tender and juicy. The couscous was dotted with sliced almonds, raisins, and dried zucchini. While she would have preferred more spice in the couscous to provide a contrast to the subtle taste of the lamb, she stated that the meat and the couscouse made a good combination. For the beverage accompaniment, we ordered a bottle of sparkling Chut Derain from Burgundy. Produced by traditional methods, it was dry, fruity, and exhibited notes of pear. The Derain vineyard is known for its organic wines, of which Chut Derain is one. Fresh, chewy, crusty country bread, sliced thin from a round loaf, was served alongside in a basket. For dessert, I chose the Riz au lait, an old-fashioned milky rice pudding.

Neither too sweet nor too creamy, it was fine for my taste! A half-pod of vanilla added flavor to the treat, and the rice had some resistance to the bite. All good! My partner tried the Mille feuilles à la fraise and was pleased to receive two thin, crispy wafers supported by whipped cream and Charlotte strawberries from Montaulban. Our server proudly announced that the strawberries were the first of the season, and that they are characterized by the subtle flavor of fraise des bois (wild strawberries or Woodland strawberries). The service was friendly and helpful. The bill for two, including two three-course menus, a bottle of sparkling wine, and a single espresso, came to 88.50€. By the time we left Le Grand 8, the room was nearly full of happy diners who had found their way up the hill and into the restaurant for an evening of gastronomic pleasure. Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!

, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology , has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook . Metro Station: Saint-Maur (Line 3), Menilmontant (Line 2), Couronnes (Line 2 Type of cuisine: Senegalese Days & hours of operation: 7 p.m. to 1 a.m. from Monday through Sunday Credit card: Visa, MasterCard, American Express Porokhane is an unpretentious dining establishment located a couple of doors down from the corner of rue Moret and rue Oberkampf. We entered, and were seated at the far end of the dining room on a well-worn bench next to tall, wide windows. As we dined, the natural light coming through the windows grew slowly fainter. During this time, the lights of the restaurant did not come on to compensate for the illumination that was lost to the setting sun.

We ended our meal dining in semi-darkness! My partner and I came here last Wednesday with a French friend who is fond of “exotic” cuisine. He had already done some preliminary research on Porokhane, saying that he had read that the best Thieboudienne (Senegal’s national fish and rice dish) in Paris could be found here. My partner advised us that our portions would likely be large, and to beware of being overly optimistic about the amount of food that we would be able to consume. And she was right! Our friend and I decided to skip the starter and to order only a main dish and a dessert, while my partner opted for a starter and a main dish. Unable to finish the starter herself, she shared it with us. It was so large that even the three of us had difficulty finishing it. By the end of the main course we were satisfied, and decided not to order dessert. The starter in question was aloco sauce, a plate of lightly-fried plantains served on a single large lettuce leaf. A small dish of tomato and onion sauce was served on the side. The chunks of plantain were sweet and tender, and the sauce added tanginess without piquancy.

Our friend and I were grateful that my partner had ordered this as a first course because we truly appreciated having the opportunity to share it with her! For the main course, our friend ordered the traditional Senagalese Poulet Yassa, while I ordered the Poisson Yassa. Yassa is prepared by marinating the chicken or fish with lemon, and subsequently cooking it smothered in onions. At the end of the course, it was obvious that our friend had enjoyed his meal. His plate was so clean that (with the exception of the bones) one would have thought he had not been served anything at all! I enjoyed my Poisson Yassa as well. My partner ordered Colombo de cabri (goat) as a main course. Though this is a Caribbean, not an African, preparation, she could not resist ordering it because one usually has to go to an Antillean restaurant to find it on the menu. She enjoyed the flavor of the goat and the spices, but said that the gravy (sauce in French) was a little grainier in texture than she would have liked. Each main dish was served with a large mound of white rice.

A dish of spicy-hot pepper sauce was available on the table had we desired to add a bit of zip to our food. For beverages, our friend and I split a couple of La Gazelle beers. This Senegalese brew comes in a 64cl bottle, so it was perfect for sharing. My partner opted to try the baobab punch and the tamarind punch, as these were flavors that she had not experienced before. Each of us was happy with our chosen beverages. Service was friendly, but slow. On that evening, we were fortunate to have Senegalese singer and acoustic guitarist Malick providing the music. Because we were seated right next to the stage, we were at first fearful of being deafened by the amplification of the songs. But we were pleasantly surprised by the gentleness of Malick’s voice and the low volume at which the amplifiers were set. The bill for three, including one starter, three main courses, two beers, and two punches, came to 53.65€. Had we not reserved a “special offer” through lafourchette.com, the bill would have come to 78.30€.

Porokhane is not on the typical tourist track, and it is not a place to dine if you are looking for stylish décor or rapid service. However, we definitely recommend the cooking! Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris! , a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology , has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook . Metro Station: Pigalle (Lines 2, 12), Notre-Dame-de-Lorette (Line 12) Type of cuisine: French Days & hours of operation: Mon to Fri Noon – 2:30 p.m. 7:00 p.m. – 10:30 p.m.

Credit card: Visa, MasterCard, American Express A big red awning with the name “Le Pantruche” boldly printed in white and wide and tall, sparkling-clean windows make this restaurant easy to recognize along rue Victor Massé. Enter to admire the sparkle inside: brass-rail-topped benches, lots of mirrors on the walls, columns encrusted with hundreds of little mirrors, aluminum lamp shades hanging over the bar… By 8:30 in the evening this place will be full of happy diners with sparkle in their conversation as well! The restaurant offers a three-course, 32€ menu, with supplements for some of the dishes. Celebrating life’s simple pleasures, we ordered a glass of René Rutat champagne and enjoyed its refreshing note of apple. For the starter, I seized upon the opportunity to try the Œuf cuit moellet, piperade et siphon chorizo. I wasn’t sure what I would get. All I knew was that it had something to do with soft-boiled egg! The waiter brought a wide-brimmed, shallow bowl containing an egg balanced on a bed of piperade, a spicy preparation of shredded sweet pepper and tomato.

The piperade itself sat in a shallow pond of frothy cream flavored with chorizo. The dish was delightfully spicy and creamy. My partner selected Asperges blanches landaises, sauce Maltaise. She was served a dish containing plump, tender, white asparagus arranged like stacked logs and topped with a light sauce sprinkled with paprika. One of the joys of eating in Paris is the possibility of tasting regional products, and my partner appreciated the opportunity to savor asparagus from Landes, a French administrative départment in the Aquitaine region of France. The sauce Maltaise is hollandaise sauce with blood orange substituting for lemon as an ingredient. The menu had a good selection of main courses (one pork, one fowl, one beef, and two fish). I chose Caille farcie à la confiture d’échalotte, curry et cardamone, lentilles au jus vinaigre. Quail is a small bird, but it was succulent, chewy, and tender. For this dish, it was stuffed with sweet, sautéed shallots and served on a bed of lentils cooked al dente. I found it to be fully satisfying.

My partner opted for the Côte de cochon fermier, fricassée de grenailles, jus à l’ancienne. She made a comment that the cut of pork looked like an elegant pork chop—it was a generous portion of medium-cooked pork resting on a bed of sautéed spring potatoes. A small clove of garlic, cooked completely through, added flavor to her dish. She exclaimed that the food and the presentation were simply sublime! To accompany the meal, we selected a 50cl bottle of Clos des Augustins – Pic Saint-Loup – Le Gamin 2008 from the Languedoc-Roussillon region. Fresh, thick-cut, country bread was served alongside in a metal container shaped like a basket. For us, dessert is usually the high point of the meal, and in this case it was no different. My Soufflé au Grand Marnier, caramel au beurre salé was a fluffy, piping-hot soufflé flavored with Grand Marnier. A goblet of sweet and salty caramel sauce was served alongside. Elegant and delectable! My partner found her Macaron citron-vert-gingembre, sorbet Granny Smith to be luscious.

The macaron was filled with lime custard that expressed a hint of ginger; its texture was similar to that of a key lime pie. A dollop of Granny Smith sorbet was served on the side. The service was friendly and helpful. While we dined, the early music of Bob Dylan played over the speaker system. The bill for two, including two glasses of champagne, two 32€ menus with a 2€ supplement, one 50cl bottle of wine, and one espresso, came to 111€. We left the restaurant taking note that this is a great place to bring out-of-town friends who express a desire to have a “real” French dining experience. Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris! , a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris.

His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology , has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook . Metro Station: Goncourt (Line 11) Type of cuisine: French Days & hours of operation: Tues to Sat Noon – 2:30 p.m. and 8:00 p.m. – 11:00 p.m. Credit card: Visa, MasterCard Philou is a tiny restaurant located near the Saint-Martin canal in northeastern Paris. The evening that we dined there, there were small groups of people sitting along the edge of the canal enjoying the mild spring weather. The restaurant has a crimson-red awning over a large sidewalk terrace. Inside, the red is echoed by the vinyl benches along the walls. And red is also echoed by the red shirts that one of the waiters and one of the waitresses wore that night.

Chalk boards announcing the food and drink menu take up most of the space on the walls, save a large, framed poster depicting a scene from Marcel Carné’s movie Les Enfants de Paradis. In the center of the room hangs a large illuminated mobile by Ingo Maurer, a German designer. Following the waitress’ suggestion for an aperitif, we ordered Cerdon Bugey, a delicious, slightly sweet, sparkling rosé with the flavor of strawberry. This wine is one of our favorites – it is always refreshing! The chalkboard lists a three-course, 30€ menu, but many of the dishes carry supplemental charges. These supplemental prices greatly distort the concept of a fixed-price menu. For the starter, I ordered Asperges blanches, vinaigrette et ventrêche (5€ supplement). The white and green asparagus, cooked al dente, were served in light vinaigrette and sprinkled with chopped chives. A thin slice of pan-fried pork belly (ventrêche) garnished these vegetables. The asparagus was über-fresh and delicious. It was an appetizing course! My partner requested Terrine de boudin, petite salade.

She was served a firm terrine of blood-sausage made with large morsels of onion, garlic, and parsley, which provided color and flavor. A mixed salad of bitter greens and a dollop of smooth apple sauce were served alongside. The terrine did not have the traditional texture of boudin, but was pleasing nonetheless. Continuing along the theme of pork, I selected Côte de cochon Ibaïona, grenailles et champignons (7€ supplement) for the main course. Ibaïona pork comes from the Basque region, and the cuts that I was served were particularly succulent. There was lots of fat to cut away, but the remaining white meat was substantial. Small, cut, sautéed new potatoes were served alongside. Overall, it was thoroughly satisfying. My partner chose Joue de boeuf aux petits légumes. She received shallow bowl containing a stew of slices of beef cheek, turnips, carrot, parsley, and a single stick of zucchini, all in a light broth. She declared her satisfaction with this selection. In contrast, my partner was disappointed in her dessert.

The presentation of her Baba au rhum was appealing, but she found that the pastry lacked sweetness and that the rum lacked strength and integrity. She orders Baba au rhum at every occasion that she finds it on the menu, so that she can make comparisons from one restaurant to another. She could not recall being more dissatisfied with a baba! I was pleased with my Nougat glacé à l’orange, a large serving of ice cream containing crunchy hazelnuts, served on an orange slice with orange syrup. A thin cookie, called tuile, accompanied the dessert. This was a fine way to end a rich meal! To accompany our starters and main courses, we ordered a half-liter of Lubéron Domaine Font-Léale 2009, a wine from the Rhone Valley. Super-big loaves of dark, chewy, crusty bread were sliced thick and served alongside in a basked. Wonderful! The restaurant seemed to have a good price on its 20-year-old calvados (apple brandy), so we each ordered a glass of Léon Desfirèchesas “Père Jules” as a digestif.

Amber in color, it was smooth and tasted of apple, even after twenty years of aging! We were quite pleased with our service. When one of the waitresses observed that we were trying to photograph the extra-large bottle of Calvados, she promptly brought it over to our table for closer inspection. The bill for two, including two apéritifs, two digestifs, a carafe of Lubéron wine, two 30€ menus with supplements, and an espresso, came to 106.50€. Though we were largely satisfied with our meal, the memory of our disappointment with the Baba dessert remains strong. More importantly than an unsatisfactory dessert, the door was kept open during the dinner service and the smoke-filled air from the terrace periodically drifted into the dining room. This proved problematic for my partner, who suffers from asthma. It will keep us from returning to dine here, at least during warm weather. View Larger Map Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris!

, a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology , has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook . 16, rue du Faubourg Montmartre 75009 Paris Metro Station: Cadet (Line 7) Type of cuisine: World Days & hours of operation: Mon to Sat Noon – 2:30 p.m. and 7:00 p.m. – 11:00 p.m. Credit card: Visa, MasterCard, American Express Located on the upper floor of a new world food supermarket called Ethnic Angel , the restaurant of the same name is a spacious, modern room with white walls and ceiling; a grey tile floor; comfortable, cushioned chairs displaying dark-brown and black stripes; tables covered with écru tablecloths and dark-brown runners; fuchsia lampshades; and paintings and pastels on the walls.

A variety of music plays over the speaker system including jazz, African, and 70s disco. We reserved through lafourchette.com, allowing us to take advantage of a 40% discount off the price of any dishes that we ordered à la carte. Spotting rum drinks on the beverage menu, I ordered a Punch maison, and my partner ordered a Rhum arrangé au gingembre. The Punch maison was served in a tall glass. Multi-colored, the apéritif contained guava, mango, pineapple, orange, strawberry syrup, and rum. It was quite sweet and refreshing. My partner’s rhum arrangé was the largest she had ever seen! The spicy, assertive flavor of ginger dominated, and the rum was evident, but not overpowering. As a starter, I selected Poêlée de Saint Jacques, purée de carotte au gingembre. The waiter presented a long, rectangular plate with three indentations, each containing a plump, succulent scallop accentuated with a small serving of puréed carrots spiced with ginger. My partner preferred the Cigare d’agneau et achard de légumes.

The two fat, stubby cylinders on her plate were made of chopped lamb, seasoned with a touch of curry and cardamom, and wrapped in cooked slices of zucchini. The side dish of Achard de légumes consisting of pickled, shredded green, red, and yellow peppers, carrots, and fennel was a traditional dish from Réunion. The high point of the dinner for me was the main course. My Attiéké plat consisted of a whole, grilled fish served with a mound of couscous made from cassava, a small dish of chutney, and a small green salad. The fish was succulent and flavorful. Couscous is normally made from semolina wheat, but in this case it was cassava, or manioc flour, that gave the couscous a slightly sour flavor. It is a starchy dish, but delicious. My partner’s choice was Mafé de poulet fumé, smoked chicken in peanut sauce. While she found the chicken tender and flavorful, she was somewhat disappointed in the peanut sauce, which she found bland. Achard de légumes and a mound of steamed, white rice were served on the side.

For the beverage accompaniment, we followed the waiter’s suggestions. I was served a generous portion of Blanc de blanc du Liban. It had a mineral flavor and, at the same time, was a bit tart. The wine went well with the fish. My partner’s Syrah was deep red with notes of dark fruit. She was pleased with this selection. For dessert, I ordered Moelleux de chocolat. The small, round chocolate cake was warm, soft, and moist, but I was disappointed by the flavor. I thought that it should either be sweeter or have a more intense chocolate flavor. The cake was served in a shallow pond of crème anglaise that contained squirts of caramel sauce. Chewy, tender bread, cut from a boule (round loaf), not a baguette, was served alongside in a basket. The service was helpful and friendly, but quite slow, apparently due to delays in the kitchen.

(There was a note on the menu that the Attiéké plat would require a twenty minute wait.) The bill for two, including two apéritifs, two glasses of wine, two starters, two main courses, and one dessert, came to 58.90€ after the 40% discount was applied to the food. Ethnic Angel is an unusual restaurant in several respects. It is located in a supermarket, just beyond the wine section. Diners may choose a bottle of wine from this area to accompany their meal, whereupon they will be charged the retail price of the bottle plus a supplemental 10€ droit de bouchon. After the meal, customers may browse the aisles of the market, where they will find food, beauty, and other products from all over the world. This is ethnic diversity at its best! Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris! , a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris.

His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology , has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook . My Paris Favorites: Alexandre Besombes Introduction by Sophie Delon Alexandre Besombes is used to being asked for recommendations. It is, after all, what he does. As the man who, along with partner Carine, leads Privé Concierge – P.S. Privé ‘s personal concierge service – Alexandre knows Paris inside and out. More than that, he is constantly in search of the newest spots around the French capital, from restaurants to boutiques and other hot spots. You might say that all of this is his passion. Alexandre left a very successful career with JP Morgan to follow his dream of sharing Paris with visitors and locals alike. And he gets to do just that with Privé Concierge, where he does everything from booking private shoppers, restaurant reservations and tours, to providing VIP access to exclusive events and behind the scenes tours of Paris attractions.

Alexandre and Carine have even helped coordinate romantic moments, from proposals to weddings and anniversary celebrations. (Concierge services are available by the day or a la carte.) Alexandre has been gracious in sharing some his favorite spots around Paris … places you know just have to be good! Paris Neighborhood Pigalle district. Crazy nightlife in this area with a lot of energy, nice restaurants in the rue des Martyrs, close to Montmartre , Abbesses and its hundreds of bars for locals. Restaurant (French) Petrus on Pereire Place (17th arrondissement). A great gastronomic restaurant with mostly locals, quiet and high quality food. Please try the wonderful chocolate fondant ! I would go to hell for this one. Restaurant (Ethnic) I love Japanese food so I would probably say Benkay , the best in Paris. Cheap Eats La Pasta Papa on rue Daunou in the 2nd. This is the typical restaurant for a quick inexpensive bite, with large portion and quality pastas.(There are Pasta Papas in various locations around the city.) Food/Gourmet Shop Would say la Ferme de Levallois near the American Hospital.

It offers chic, expensive, unique gourmet items such as a really large range of wild boar saucissons. Department Store Le Bon Marché obviously! The quality and service in this department store are immaculate, and you have space to move around, as it is not ever too crowded. Chocolate Shop La Maison du Chocolat at la Madeleine. The manager there offers a great service and I love the quality of their chocolate Speciality Boutique Gibert Jeunes : I love to look for second-hand books in the narrow alleys of this bookstore in St Michel district. Men’s Boutique Savile House near the Opera. A great place for true lovers of luxury business suits. Photo courtesy of the Plaza Athenée Place for Cocktails The Bar of the Plaza Athénée : it has beautiful clients, nice cocktails, and an amazing glass bar. Music Spot Le Motel in Charonne district. With inexpensive drinks, an original choices of bands, this is the recipe for a really great evening. Patisserie /Boulangerie This is a tough one ! I’ll go for Gerard Mulot , I like the fact that even if his business is so successful, Mr.

Mulot still works on a daily basis in his bakery and takes time to chat with his clients. Every product in this boulangerie is delicious, believe me. Breakfast Spot I do not have time for long breakfasts during weekdays. But during the week-end, I’ll go for a brunch at The Kube Hotel in the 18th for instance. Quiet Spot The Buttes Chaumont . You feel well to be at some altitude in this park, there are not a lot of people here, compared to Luxembourg Gardens or the Parc Monceau for instance. Otherwise, there are a couple of incredible quiet inner-court gardens in the Marais but I will keep the addresses for me! Paris indulgence A pastry by Pierre Hermé for Sunday lunch. Every time I have one delicious pastry like the 2000 feuilles by Pierre Hermé, I know I treat myself well during the week-ends !! Day trip from Paris Honfleur . But only during the weekdays as it is too much crowded during the week-ends, and you may lose a half day on the road on Sunday nights. It feels like a great escapade far from Paris and it is so nice to have a lunch on the little harbor.

Metro Station: Gare de Lyon (Lines 1 and 14, RER A and D) Type of cuisine: French Days & hours of operation: Mon to Fri Noon – 3:00 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. – midnight; Sat 7:30 p.m. – midnight Credit card: Visa, MasterCard We happened upon this off-the-beaten-path restaurant one night while making our way down rue Traversière in the direction of the Gare de Lyon. One does not normally expect to come upon a fine-dining establishment near a train station, but there it was, with a green awning sheltering big, sparkling, clean windows. After reading on the Internet that we would get a 20% discount off the price of a meal (beverages and fixed-price menu excluded; mention the word “gold” at the time of the reservation) taken between the hours of 7:30 p.m. and 8:30 p.m., we made a reservation for a Friday evening. The interior of the restaurant is a visual delight.

It has avocado-green walls, chairs draped in cranberry-colored cloth, lemon-colored vinyl benches trimmed in avocado green, gold pillars, and real red tulips in bud vases. The room is spacious and comfortable. Unusual artwork displayed in a tilework-like pattern graces the walls. We each selected the Pressé de foie gras de canard, compote de date et figue as a starter. The foie gras was served with two small slices of toasted, super-crunchy, multi-grain-cereal bread and a dollop of date-and-pear chutney. The foie gras was smooth and unctuous. The subtle sweetness of the date in the chutney dominated the pear, but the mélange was a good match to offset the slight bitterness of the foie gras. To accompany the foie gras, we each ordered a glass of semi-sweet Domaine du Tariquet. The wine was light, with a note of fresh pear. For the main course I opted for the Pigeon du Poitou, navet confit au Porto, pomme gaufrette.

I requested that the pigeon be cooked rare and received a very tender, chewy, and succulent bird cut into morsels that rested on a bed of diced turnips cooked in Porto. Waffle potato chips garnished the dish. I ordered a glass of Domaine Le Cazal Minervois as an accompaniment. Ruby in color, it was slightly astringent and not quite velvety as I would have preferred. My partner ordered the Magret de canard à la noisette, purée de patate douce à chair orange. She received a surprisingly large portion of perfectly cooked duck breast accompanied by four dollops of sweet potato purée and a medley of sautéed vegetables, including turnips, carrots, asparagus, and pois gourmands. For her wine accompaniment, my partner ordered a Laibach Merlot Stellebosch from South Africa. She pronounced it earthy in aroma and smooth in texture. Fresh, sliced demi-baguette was served alongside in a basket. After the main course, the presentation of the dessert menu brought interesting choices. I selected the Fondant de marron, sorbet rhum, coulis de fruit rouge, crème anglaise.

This was a round, warm chestnut cake with a melted interior, served with a scoop of rum-raisin ice cream and custard cream. The custard cream was thin, signaling to me that it was house-made—it was not thick and cloying like prefabricated, ready-to-serve crème anglaise. My partner opted for the Vacherin à la crème de citron, framboise, balsamique réduit, meringue. Vacherin is a custard dessert. In this case it was lemon custard dotted with balsamic reduction, and garnished with cigarette sticks of meringue. Served in a martini glass, the custard sat atop a cookie-crust pastry. The traditional garnish for this dessert includes raspberry coulis and fresh raspberries, but my partner requested that the dessert be served without this accompaniment because of her dislike for this red fruit. The restaurant graciously honored this request, serving the dessert without the coulis and replacing the fresh raspberries with a blackberry and red currants. The service was helpful and friendly.

The bill for two persons, including four glasses of wine, two starters, two main courses, two desserts, and one espresso came to 118.60€ after the 20% discount was applied to the food. Ô Rebelle will close in a few weeks. We advise travelers who wish to dine there to telephone to determine whether the establishment is still open. Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris! , a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology , has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook .

Metro Station: Place de Clichy (Lines 2 and 13) Type of cuisine: African Days & hours of operation: Open every day from noon to 5:00 p.m. and 6:00 p.m. to 2:00 a.m. Credit card: Cash only Au Braisé d’Or is located on a side street off place de Clichy in the 18th arrondissement. It is modest in appearance, both on the outside and inside. We did not go there for the décor however, but rather to try another of Paris’ many restaurants that serve African cuisine. We made a reservation for 6:30 p.m. on a Friday; for the longest time after we arrived, we were the only customers in the restaurant. The wait for the food was long, but we were prepared for this because the waitress explained that the chef prepares each dish on command, not in advance. This we could readily believe, as the food that finally appeared before us was fresh, filling, and appetizing. While waiting for the food to be prepared we each sipped a cocktail and I munched on a generous portion of unshelled peanuts served in a bowl.

My Lobalaba Akwaba consisted of white rum, lime, and ginger. Served with a straw in a large martini glass, the spicy ginger drink almost set my mouth on fire! My partner’s Coupé Décalé was a beverage made from the syrup of hibiscus, ginger, and rum. She declared that it was bursting with flavor, but not very strong in alcohol. She was so pleased with the drink that she ordered a second! We did not order a starter, but proceeded directly to the main course. Upon the waitress’ suggestion, I ordered Moyo, an entire braised fish that had been smothered in cooked, sliced tomatoes, bell pepper, and onions. This was truly a fine meal—the fish was flaky, tender, and succulent. It was served with Ablo—four puffy, muffin-shaped cakes made from rice. The cakes were slightly sweet, but otherwise unassertive in their flavor. They readily absorbed the delicious, spicy sauce in which the fish was served. Following the waitress’ recommendation, my partner selected the Kedjenou, a specialty from Côte d’Ivoire that was prepared in a fashion that is popular in Togo.

The dish of braised guinea fowl was served in a light, flavorful sauce containing a hint of tomato and onion. The flesh of the bird was dark—there was no white meat served. The guinea fowl was served with Attiéké, a fine couscous-like side dish. It was the perfect accompaniment for the sauce in which the bird rested. The waitress placed a small dish of extremely hot sauce on our table, in the event that we wanted to add piquancy to our food. The tiniest dab of the sauce on the tip of the tongue was enough to convince me to stay away from it—forever! To accompany the meal, I ordered a Flag, a beer brewed in Togo. It is a mild-tasting beer—too mild to match the hearty flavors of the Moyo in my opinion. We decided to forego the dessert, as the main course was quite filling. The bill for two, including three cocktails, one beer, and two main courses with side dishes, came to only 42€. A nice price to pay for such a delicious meal! While we dined, soukous (Congo-Zaïroise music) played over the speaker system.

The waitress was quite helpful—she gave numerous suggestions about the dishes that we might like to try, guiding us away from the heavier ones. As she is from Senegal and the chef is from Togo, she told us that she was in the process of discovering many of the dishes herself. The advice she gave was right on target! We will happily return to Au Braisé d’Or to sample more of the menu. Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris! , a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology , has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook .

My Paris Favorites: Yetunde Oshodi Introduction by Linda Donahue The first thing I learned about Yetunde Oshodi is that she has magnificent taste. That this Nigerian-born, New York-raised wonderwoman made her home in Paris after spending time in France as a child was my first clue. But after meeting the owner of Feels Like Home in Paris for lunch at La Table d’Eugene in Montmartre, my initial impression is confirmed. Our meal at what she lists as her favorite French restaurant is absolutely exquisite – as is our conversation about life, love and the pursuit of happiness in Paris. (more…) 24, rue Notre-Dame de Nazareth 75003 Paris Metro Station: République (Lines 3, 5, 8, 9, 11) and Temple (Line 3) Type of cuisine: Haïtian and Antillean Days & hours of operation: Mon to Thurs Noon – 3:00 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. – 11:30 p.m. Fri to Sat Noon – 3:00 p.m. and 7:30 p.m.

– 1:30 a.m. Credit card: Visa, MasterCard Au Paradis Tropical is a modest restaurant with a bar located in the front room, a main dining room in the back, and additional dining space upstairs. The walls in the main dining room display dark wood paneling and sky blue and yellow wallpaper decorated with foliage. It is a comfortable place to enjoy cuisine from Haïti and the French Antilles. Because the restaurant won the coveted Marmite d’Or award for Afro-Caribbean restaurants in 2009, we had high hopes for our meal. We began with an apéritif. I ordered a Punch au fruit de la passion, and my partner a Punch gingembre. Each punch contained a generous portion of rum, making the beverages quite potent. My punch was mildly sweet with seeds of passion fruit clinging to the bottom of the glass. My partner’s drink contained pulverized ginger root. Both beverages were invigorating! Both my partner and I wanted a Haïtian dining experience on this particular evening. (Haïtian restaurants are surprisingly uncommon in Paris.) I selected from the three-course Menu Créole priced at 30€.

(The menu included the punch that I had selected as an apéritif. Not a bad deal!) For the starter, I ordered the Assiette haïtienne, consisting of Bananes pesées, griots, and piclise (all traditional Haïtian dishes). Bananes pesées are green banana fritters; griots are small, fried portions of tender pork; piclise is a spicy salad of shredded cabbage and carrot. The assiette was a generous, appetizing portion of food. Although my partner ordered à la carte, she chose the same starter that I had chosen – with one difference – she chose to have Aloco (fried plantain) in place of Bananes pesées. Aloco is sweeter than Bananes pesées; after having tasted my Bananes pesées, my partner declared that she was happy that she chose to order Aloco. For the main course, I selected Bœuf aux cristophines, a dish consisting of stewed beef with slices of pear squash. A mound of black rice was served alongside. The rice had been cooked with djon-djon, a black mushroom native to Haiti, and had taken on its color and delicate smoky flavor.

My partner ordered Tassot de cabri, large morsels of goat that had been marinated in spices and lime, and then grilled. The goat was served with a mound of Riz djon-djon, a small bowl of spicy sauce for dipping, and another serving of aloco. Eating goat in Paris is a rare treat, and my partner savored every bite of her dish. For dessert, I chose the Blanc manger à la noix de coco, a sweet, creamy coconut flan served with a maraschino cherry. It was delectable, and I found myself wishing that I had ordered a second helping. Foregoing the dessert, my partner ordered a Punch coco. Served in a small glass with a single ice cube, the coconut beverage had the appearance of amaretto liqueur. It was sweet and quite potent. All of the portions of food were generous. We think that one could order only a main course here and walk away feeling quite satisfied. We found the service to be friendly and helpful. The bill for two, including two punches, one beer, one three-course menu with beverage, one starter, and one main course, came to 72€.

A good price and a great place to go for Haïtian cooking! Tom Reeves has been a confirmed Francophile since he first traveled to France in 1975. A native of northern California, he moved to France permanently in 1992. Reeves’ love of French language and culture inspired him to create Discover Paris! , a travel planning service that caters to Americans interested in cultural travel to Paris. His book, Paris Insights – An Anthology , has been called “the kind of insider’s view of the French capital…that first or even second time visitors pine for.” He publishes a monthly newsletter entitled Paris Insights about history, culture, and contemporary life in the City of Light, and posts daily information about the French capital on Facebook . My Paris Favorites: Alisa Morov Introduction by Linda Donahue. All photos taken by Ferrante Ferranti courtesy of VerySwell . I recently met Alisa Morov at a fabulous soirée she co-hosted with Louise Brody of Atelier 7. The two women launched VerySwell , a fun new project that combines exclusive settings with imaginative cuisine and fun themes.

The Mad Men Cocktail Club, the kickoff for their collaboration, was held in Picasso’s former atelier on Boulevard Raspail. Guests attired themselves in cocktail dresses and suits at least inspired by the era, while sipping cocktails, eating fabulous finger foods prepared by Alisa’s company, and enjoying a background soundtrack from the 50s and 60s. Alisa, who moved to Paris from Los Angeles nine years ago, is the kind of gal who makes you feel right at ease in a crowd of strangers, and the two of us spent the night convinced we’d met before. We still haven’t figured that one out, but I was dazzled by this energetic woman who, juggles motherhood with her own company, the American-inspired Sweet Pea Baking , while releasing two cookbooks. Her third book, “Happy Gateaux” was just released and is available in bookstores and on Amazon.fr . Alisa took the time from her crazy schedule to share some of her Paris favorites with us. Paris neighborhood The area that straddles the 10th and the 11th arrondissements, starting at the Canal St.

Martin and moving south and east, exploring all the little streets, towards metro Parmentier and metro Couronnes. You can feel art living in the streets, in the cafés, shops, bars and galleries. It’s inspiring, comfortable – it feels like “home”. Restaurant (French) Chateaubriand in the 11th. I was there on the third day after they opened, and I still feel the same. The food is amazing, surprising, a “wow” for the senses. The atmosphere is sexy, comfortable, fun. All the best reasons for liking anything. Restaurant (Ethnic) Choosing just one is a bit of a challenge. Today, it would be Anahuacalli at 30 Rue des Bernardins in the 5th arrondissement. The best Mexican food and margaritas I have found in Paris (and coming from a Southern California girl, this is a huge endorsement). The atmosphere is warm, inviting, authentic, but not kitschy. Cheap eats L’As du Fallafel at 34, rue des Rosiers in the Marais, because it is so, so good! Even the event of getting a table is fun.

I’ve tried other things there, and they are good, but nothing beats the signature Falafel sandwich with their homemade Harrisas (red and green). Food/gourmet shop I find great, weird foodstuff in the tiniest, most unusual places. For the consistent “Oh, look what I found,” it’s a toss-up between Tang Freres (48 avenue d’Ivry, 13th arr.) and La Grande Epicerie de Paris (38 Rue de Sèvres in the 7th). I can’t imagine my cooking being as fun without these two. Department store This one is easy: Le Bon Marché (24 Rue Sèvres, 7th arr.). The shoes, the furniture, the cooking department, the clothes. Equally important to my shopping life is Merci (111 Boulevard Beaumarchais, 3rd arr.). It’s sort of a department store, right? Between the store and its cafés, I’d just like to live there. Chocolate shop Michel Cluizel (201 Rue St Honoré, 1st arr.) for the taste, the beauty, the creativity – the Orangettes dipped in chocolate.

Specialty boutique G.Detou (58, rue Tiquetonne, 2nd arr.) and MORA (13 Rue Montmartre, 1st arr.), for ingredients, tools and supplies. As a baker and a cook, these two equal heaven. Women’s Boutique Trésor by Brigitte Masson (6 Rue Trésor, 4th arr.). Beautiful, original, sexy, fun and wearable. Place for cocktails There are so many places still unexplored. Right now, for a great martini, a hot dog and quirky ambiance, Harry’s Bar (5 Rue Daunou 2nd arr.). Searching for great cocktails and food is, however, what led to starting VerySWELL. Our signature champagne cocktail calls my name. (Not meant to make a shameless plug, but it is so good.) Music spot I eagerly await La Fête de la Musique every year. I pick a different neighborhood each time. It’s all serendipity, magic and some great music finds. This year, the Féte is on June 21st.

Patisserie /Boulangerie My favorite is Le Moulin de la Vierge, (166, avenue de Suffren, 15th arr.), with artisanal breads and perfect pastries very worth the calories. For a complete indulgence, Pierre Hermé at any and all locations. Breakfast spot Chez Moi. Mornings with my children are unbeatable, with the Nespresso machine on, a view of the Seine, a baguette with wonderful butter or my homemade scones. And it doesn’t matter what I wear. Quiet spot There are a few places along the Seine where I love to hang out, read, get a tan and watch the boats. Close to where the canal dumps into the river. “South” of Eiffel Tower, going toward Alle de Cinges. A place I need to keep secret so I can keep it all to myself. Paris indulgence At the Lobby lounge in the Hotel Meurice (rue de Rivoli, 1st arr.), every chair is different.

After champagne and caviar with a few close friends, a walk around Paris at night crossing bridges before grabbing a taxi very late in the night and asking the driver to take the long way home. Day trip from Paris Almost anywhere in Normandy, where I can enjoy nature, cheese, and cows with soft ears.

Question: If a dish were to be described as ' du lapin ' in a French restaurant , what animal's meat should it contain ?
Answer: RABBIT