Budgerigar | Invasive Species Wiki | Fandom powered by Wikia The budgerigar is natvie to Australia, where it is present throughout much of the interior. [1] Introduced Range Edit The budgerigar has become established in much of Florida. It's established range is greatest on, but not restricted to, Florida's western Gulf Coast. [2] These populations may be falling due to competition with other birds, including another introduced species, the European starling . The budgerigar has also become established in much of Japan, in the prefectures of Niigati, Ibaraki, Tochigi, Saitama, Tokyo, Chiba, Kanagwa, Yamnashi, Shizouka, Nagano, Aichi, Mie, Shiga, Nara, Wakayama, Kyoto, Osaka, Hyogo, Okayama, Kochi, Oita and Miyazaki. [3] The budgerigar has also been introduced to South Africa, New Zealand, Switzerland, the United Kingdom and Puerto Rico but have not become established in these countries.

[1] Pathways and Introduction Edit The budgerigar is extremely popular as a pet and as a result has been sold in many countires.[3/4] Budgerigars have been present in Florida since at least the 1940s, when they were first seen in the city of Saint Petersburg.[5] Budgerigars were first brought to Great Britain in 1840. It is likely that escaped or hitchhiking animals travelled on ships from Australia to the UK, although the first sightings in the wild were not until 1970 in Tresco.[4] Budgerigar - Everything You Need to Know About the Parakeet budgerigar A website dedicated to the Budgerigar, also referred to as common pet parakeet and affectionately nicknamed the budgie Please leave this field empty: Please leave this field empty: Name: Budgerigar Colors Poster Celebrate the Beautiful Colors of the Budgerigar With This Stunning and Highly Informative Poster Budgies are beautiful creatures and one of the big reasons for that is their incredibly varied and vibrant plumage.

Budgerigars come in a wide variety of different colors and patterns, each one as striking as the next and each able to tell us something about that bird. This poster is a real treat for those with an interest in ornithology. Each image is highly detailed and anatomically correct and the post features all 56 of the most common color mutations. This allows it to double as not only a wonderful decoration for your home but also a highly accurate reference chart. The poster comes in the following sizes: MINI - 7" X 10" LARGE - 20" X 28" X-LARGE - 28" X 40" We recommend the larger sizes for the most detailed images. We only use the finest materials for these premium posters and have gone to painstaking lengths to ensure this is the definitive reference poster on the subject. So why not celebrate the many colors of the budgerigar with this magnificent poster? Whether you want to brush up on your bird spotting, show off your love of birds or just add a splash of color to your walls; this is brilliant way to liven up your décor. A rainbow of color that is as informative as it is unique, just like budgerigars themselves.

Order today and let your colors show! (We ship anywhere in the world.) Budgie Balancing Trick Watch this short video of a pet budgie balancing on a tennis ball. Introduction When it comes to pet birds, budgerigars have been popular options for years. These small parrots can be found in just about any pet store, but they're generally only found in the wild in Australia. Although it's not unusual to run across budgerigars of many different colors and patterns, those variations have come about through strategic, carefully planned breeding through the years. Despite their diminutive size, these birds make fascinating pets. They have been charming people for years with their playful personalities, gorgeous coloring, intelligence and sociability. Budgerigars are affordable pets, and they are easy to care for as well. With budgerigars, there's a lot more than meets the eye. Until you've actually taken the time to get to know a budgerigar, it's easy to assume that they are like any other bird. In the wild, budgerigars are prized for their bright, vibrant feathers. In captivity, they are popular for being easy, fun pets to have in the home.

People have been breeding budgerigars for decades to develop exciting new color variations and markings. If you're thinking about adopting one, you can take your pick from more than 100 different variations. Before you do that, though, study up about this fascinating bird below. A Brief History of the Budgerigar Budgerigars have ancestors that stretch back for millennia. In fact, these birds first appeared on earth long before humans. They are native to Australia, and the first humans who came into contact with them were most likely the aborigines of that land. The first recorded description of the budgerigar was made in 1805 by an English zoologist and botanist named George Shaw . The first budgerigar was brought to Europe by an English ornithologist named John Gould in 1840, and the first captive breeding began just a decade later during the 1850s. Although the first recorded color variation wasn’t made until 1870, a wide variety of variations followed shortly thereafter. The budgerigar’s popularity as a household pet rose dramatically during the 20th century, and the bird continues to be a very popular pet to this day.

Etymology In some places, budgerigars are commonly referred to as “parakeets.” That’s misleading, however, because the term “parakeet” can refer to one of several dozen kinds of small parrots that have long feather trails. Other common names for the budgerigar include budgie, common pet parakeet, shell parakeet, canary parrot, flight bird, love bird, scallop parrot, zebra parrot and warbling grass parakeet. Variations on the word “budgerigar” include betcherrygah and budgerygah. Even though budgerigars are typically called parakeets, especially in the United States, they are just one of over 100 species commonly referred to as parakeets, a widely diverse class of tiny, slender parrots spread out over more than a dozen genera in the subfamily Psittacinae of the family Psittacidae. There’s a lot of debate out there about the origins of the term “budgerigar.” Many believe that it is derived from the aboriginal word “betchegara,” which means “good to eat.” Others think that it comes from various Australian slang terms.

For example, “budgery” means “good,” and “gar” means “cockatoo.” It is possible that the two terms were put together to create the name of the lovable pet parrot that is so popular today. The budgerigar’s scientific or binomial name is Melopsittacus undulatus. The term was coined by John Gould , the same English ornithologist that originally brought the first budgies to Europe. The first part, Melopsittacus, is Greek and means “melodious parrot,” which is quite fitting. The second part, undulatus, is Latin and means “wave-patterned” or “undulated.” That term clearly refers to the scalloped or undulated patterns that give the budgie such a distinct appearance. Physical Traits of the Budgerigar Most people can recognize a budgerigar when they see one, but it’s still interesting to take a closer look at the unique physical appearance of this popular pet bird. There are many variations in terms of colors and patterns, but the following information applies strictly to natural budgies that haven’t been bred to achieve different color variations.

Basic Characteristics – The average budgerigar is approximately seven inches in length and weighs between 1.1 and 1.4 ounces. They have wingspans of 10 inches to 14 inches. Common budgies’ bodies are light green. Their mantles, which consist of their backs and wings, typically have yellow undulations and black markings. Forehead and Face – Adult budgies have yellow faces. Small purple patches are also found on their cheeks. Until they get their adult plumage, immature budgies have black-colored stripes from their foreheads to their ceres or noses. Throat Spots – Black spots appear on both sides of a budgerigar’s throat (Binks 23). Tail Feathers – When standing, a budgie’s tail is dark blue or cobalt in color. Upon stretching or taking flight, the yellow coloring of the outside tail feathers is revealed. Bill and Legs – A budgie’s legs are usually bluish-gray in color, and it has an olive-gray bill.

Toes – Budgies are unique in the avian world because they have zygodactyl toes (Birmelin 16), which means that the second and third toes face forward and the first and fourth toes face backward. This characteristic makes budgerigars adept climbers and allows them to perch comfortably. Beak – Another distinct thing about the budgie is its beak. The upper portion of its beak is strong and smooth, and it is much larger than the lower portion of the beak. When a budgie’s beak is closed, the lower portion is completely covered. Due to the puffy, fluffy feathers that cover a budgie’s face, its beak appears to be almost flush and points down in a distinctive way. The budgie can close its beak very tightly, which allows it to keep a firm grip on food, nesting materials and other things. Cere – The cere is the part of the face that contains the nostrils, and you can determine the sex of a budgie by looking at it (Lohr 12). In males, the cere is royal blue in color. In non-breeding females, its color ranges from pale brown to white. In breeding females, it is brown.

Immature budgies’ ceres are pink, so it’s not always possible to determine the sex of a very young parakeet by looking at its cere. Plumage – It should also be noted that a budgie’s plumage fluoresces in UV light (Alderton 38), which may come in handy during courtship. Oils in the feathers protect them from moisture, which keeps these small birds from being weighed down and unable to fly. Budgies molt naturally from time to time, and the long feathers in their wings and tails provide adequate balance. Color Vision - Human beings have trichromatic vision, which means that our eyes have three cone cell types. We are unable to see colors in the UV spectrum. Budgies, on the other hand, have tetrachromatic vision , which means that their eyes have four cone cell types. They are able to see colors in the UV spectrum, and they take full advantage of it when mating and foraging. Behavioral Traits Budgies have fascinating personalities that make them excellent pets. They are extremely playful and curious, and they love to explore. They have a strong flock mentality, which means that they are happiest when they are among other budgerigars.

Common budgie behaviors include: Stretching - Budgies stretch from time to time to get exercise and to get their blood flowing. Beak Grinding - While asleep, budgerigars often nibble or grind their beaks. Preening - To stay clean, budgies preen on a regular basis. They get oil from the "preen gland" at the base of the tail and use it to keep their feathers in excellent shape. Fluffing - It's not unusual to see budgies fluff themselves up or shake around, and they usually do this when they're done preening. It gets their feathers back into order. They may also do this immediately before taking a nap, and it's sometimes a part of mating behavior. Chewing and Shredding - Budgerigars' beaks are always growing. To keep them from becoming overgrown, these birds enjoy shredding things up and chewing on things (Robinson and Kelsey-Wood 12). Napping - Around midday, most budgies take naps. They typically nap for 15 to 45 minutes. Yawning - Whether it's done before a nap or immediately after one, yawning is normal.

A budgerigar's throat might move forward when he yawns, and that's normal too. Budgies in the Wild There are more than five million budgies in the wild today. In the wild, budgies are generally a lot smaller than their captive counterparts. As nomadic birds, they stick to open habitats like scrublands, woodlands and grasslands in dry parts of Australia, and they have inhabited this part of the world for more than five million years. The availability of water and food determines where they go. In times of drought, they typically move over to coastal and wooded regions. Their flocks are usually small, but they occasionally travel in large flocks. Wild budgies’ diets consist of things like insects, grains and seeds. Their natural predators are snakes and birds of prey. They communicate by warbling. Unlike most birds, they don’t build nests. Budgerigars and humans Budgies in Captivity Budgerigars or parakeets have been bred in captivity since the 1850s. Certain budgies are bred for show, and they are often referred to as English or show budgies.

Show budgerigars can be up to twice as large as their counterparts in the wild, and their heads are exceptionally puffy and fluffy. As a result, their beaks and eyes are almost totally covered. As social animals, budgies need to be stimulated in order to stay happy and healthy in captivity. Humans who can’t be around all the time should consider buying budgerigars in pairs. However, keeping several female budgies in a single cage is not a good idea because fights often ensue. In captivity, budgies can often be taught to mimic certain words. Male parakeets that are kept alone tend to perform the best. Color Mutations There are 32 primary color mutations in the world of budgerigars. They are split into two main categories: White-based mutations that consist of grays, blues and whites, and yellow-based mutations that consist of yellows, gray-greens and greens. In addition to the 32 primary color mutations, hundreds of secondary color mutations are possible. A huge array of patterns and feather mutations are also possible. Common varieties include crested, albino, clear-winged, opaline, gray-winged, violet and spangled budgies.

Budgerigars have been bred to produce different color variations since the 1850s. In stores, the most common varieties are blue, yellow and green. For more information, check out our free eBook: The Beauty of the Budgerigar: Colors, Mutations, & More Breeding In general, budgerigars are opportunistic breeders, which means that they breed when they have reliable access to grass seeds and other foods. Therefore, parakeets often breed in the wild following long periods of rain. In northern Australia, they commonly breed between June and September; in southern Australia, they commonly breed between August and June. These periods of time coincide with wet times of the year when food sources are ample and reliable. Budgies are monogamous . They usually stick with one partner for life. Partners show affection to each other by preening and feeding one another. Female budgies can lay eggs without partners, but they are unfertilized and don’t hatch. When she’s ready to lay eggs, a female budgie’s cere becomes crusty and brown. These birds don’t build nests, and females lay their eggs inside trees, logs and posts.

Budgie eggs have a plain, white color and are usually between one and two centimeters in length. There are usually four to six eggs, and females lay one egg every two days or so. As a result, eggs hatch at staggered times as well. The eggs have to be incubated for 18 to 21 days, and the age difference between the first hatchling and the last one can range from nine to 16 days. While incubating her eggs, the female budgerigar only leaves for very brief intervals (Radtke 56). Her mate usually brings her food and feeds it to her by eating it first and regurgitating it into her mouth. Breeding problems are rate in the budgie world, but they do happen. Females often fight over nest boxes (Allen 14). Due to insecurity, female budgies sometimes eat their own eggs. From time to time, male budgies have no interest in female budgies; this problem usually happens when birds are unable to live in a flock setting. Development When they are born, budgerigars are altricial, which means that they are completely helpless and blind.

For the first few days of a young budgie’s life, his mother must feed him and keep him warm. Around the tenth day, baby budgies’ eyes open for the first time. This is also when they begin to develop feather down and don’t need to rely on their mother as much for warmth. Around the third week of life, young budgies begin to develop real feathers. In many cases, the male partner is allowed to start helping with the baby budgies as well, although female parakeets don’t always allow it. Single mothers and bird couples that are extremely overwhelmed occasionally give one or two babies to a foster pair. The pair must be breeding or raising hatchlings themselves in order to take on this role. As the fifth week approaches, baby budgies begin stretching their wings in order to strengthen them. They become a lot more self-sufficient, so their parents are able to leave the nest for longer and longer periods of time. They also learn how to scare away predators by screeching and being noisy. When their wings become strong enough, they fledge or learn to fly for the first time. By the sixth week, most baby budgies are completely weaned and able to leave home for good.

Health If you’re thinking about adopting a budgie, you need to be completely aware of how a healthy one looks and behaves. A healthy budgie preens and grooms regularly. He has a good appetite and is as active as can be. His beak is firm and intact, and his cere is waxy. Droppings should be firm, and they should harden up quickly. A healthy budgie has plenty of feathers, strong claws and unblemished feet. It’s important to be on the lookout for the common signs of ill health in a budgerigar. An excessive loss of feathers can be a big red flag. Other warning signs include encrusted feet, mites in the feathers around the beak and the cere, a crusty cere, an overgrown or under-grown beak, spiky head feathers and runny droppings. If a budgie keeps his beak wide open while breathing, it could be a sign of a serious health problem. Common Health Problems Like any other animal, budgerigars occasionally suffer from various ailments. In the very beginning of life, some immature budgies suffer from a condition called “splay legs,” which is characterized by one leg that is permanently bent outward.

This prevents a bird from standing properly and can affect his ability to reproduce and compete for food. Fortunately, it’s easy to ward off this issue. It’s usually caused by nest boxes with slick floors that cause young birds to slip and slide. Shavings or bedding can prevent this problem and keep splay legs at bay. There are many budgie or parakeet ailments. A few of the most common ones are highlighted below. Bumblefoot - This condition begins with inflammation or infection at the bottom of a budgie’s foot. Over time, the skin gets thinner and redder. If left untreated, ulcers can develop. Eventually, the tissue on the bottom of the feet becomes necrotic or dies, which allows the infection to spread to the bone. Bumblefoot frequently happens in captivity when people provide the wrong types of perches for their budgies. Perches that are too hard can cause bumblefoot, and dirty perches can cause it too. Once the condition has developed, antibiotics usually need to be administered. Scaly Face and Scaly Legs - This painful and unsightly condition is actually caused by a parasitic infection that involves mites called cnemodocoptes pilae.

They cause the buildup of scales with tiny holes on or around a bird’s legs, vent, eyes and beak. It needs to be treated with a medicine called ivermectin, although it can sometimes be managed with a disinfectant called Dettol. Tumor - Due to budgies’ lightning-fast metabolisms, tumors usually grow quickly. Tumors of the kidney, testicles, ovaries and adrenal glands are the most common. Fatty tumors are also very prevalent. Polyomavirus - This condition is also known as budgerigar fledgling disease and usually strikes down chicks immediately after they hatch. Psittacosis - Another common term for this condition is “parrot fever,” and it can be transmitted through the air or orally. Digestive and respiratory symptoms usually occur. It is highly contagious among birds, so affected birds must be isolated. This condition can also be transmitted to humans. French Molt - This refers to a condition in which a budgerigar’s feathers fall out and don’t return. Feathers on the tail and wings are usually affected, and this condition can be spread to other birds.

Feather Plucking - When a budgie excessively plucks his feathers, it is usually a sign of loneliness or boredom. New toys or a new friend can alleviate the problem most of the time. Goiter - If a budgie doesn’t get enough iodine in his diet, he can develop this condition, which involves the enlargement of the thyroid gland. This condition affects the sound of a bird’s voice. Diet Budgerigars are primarily vegetarians, although they often eat insects in the wild. In captivity, there are many ways to provide a budgerigar with a balanced diet. To be extra safe, however, you should always keep a mineral block in your budgie’s cage. It will make up for anything that his regular diet may be lacking. Vegetables - Budgies enjoy a wide range of different vegetables including carrots, cucumbers, squashes, yams, turnips, zucchinis, tomatoes, cauliflowers and romaine lettuce. Grains - In the wild, budgerigars thrive off of grass seeds. In captivity, grains like couscous, barley, flax, oats, quinoa, wholegrain pastas, whole rice, wild rice and millet are all excellent options.

Legumes and Nuts - From time to time, you should provide your budgie with fresh nuts and legumes. Options include pinto beans, kidney beans, sunflower seeds, sesame seeds and almonds. Hazardous Foods - You should never give your budgie any of the following foods: lima bean or navy bean sprouts, cabbage, lemons, potatoes, grapefruits, plums, rhubarb, onions, chocolate, garlic or any type of food that contains lactose. Tips for Setting Up a Budgie's Cage Upon bringing your new budgerigar home, you’re going to want to make him as comfortable and happy as possible. The first order of business is selecting the appropriate cage. Budgies like to be active, so you should try to get a cage that is at least 40 inches long, 20 inches deep and 32 inches high. Choose a cage that comes with built-in horizontal perches, and make sure the perches are made out of natural wood (Birmelin and Niemann 23). As far as “decorating” your budgie’s cage, you need to keep comfort, safety, health and entertainment in mind.

If the cage that you buy doesn’t come with perches, you’ll need to buy some. The right perch will be at least half an inch wide and should be made out of wood. Natural branches work perfectly fine, and rope is a nice option too. Cover the bottom of the cage in newspaper for easy cleaning, and plan on cleaning your budgie’s cage every few days. Make sure that your budgerigar always has access to fresh water and seeds. The cage should include at least one chew toy, or your parakeet won’t be able to keep his beak in good shape. It should also include a mineral block to ensure that he gets all the minerals he needs. Toys like mirrors and swings can also come in handy. Some people believe that mirrors discourage budgies from learning to talk, but no conclusive studies have been performed. Training a Budgerigar Hand Taming – Before anything else can be accomplished, your budgie has to be comfortable with your hand. The worst thing you can do is shove your hand into his cage. You shouldn’t just reach in and grab him either. The first step is to put your hand in his cage without getting it near him (Teitler 46).

This allows him to get used to its presence. Over several sessions, gradually move your hand closer and closer to your budgie. After a while, he will be used to it. Teaching a Budgie to Jump onto Your Finger – This is a neat trick, and the best way to accomplish it is by offering treats. Use millet to encourage your budgie to jump onto your finger. Place your finger against the base of his chest, and use your other hand to offer him the treat. When he jumps on your finger, allow him to enjoy the millet. Eventually, he’ll know to jump right onto your finger when you place it against his chest. Whistlng – This is a precursor to mimicking actual words. Start with two or three simple whistles in a row. Many times, birds get the hang of it and are then able to whistle more complex tunes. Mimicking – Although people often brag about teaching their budgerigars how to speak, the truth is that budgies simply mimic human speech. That doesn’t make it any less impressive, though. Repetition is the only way to go (Feyerabend 40).

Choose a simple word or phrase like “pretty boy” and repeat it as often as possible. Eventually, he might surprise you and say it back to you. Top Reasons to Adopt a Budgie Are you still on the fence about adopting a budgerigar? If so, the following reasons might just convince you to take the plunge. They are Smart - Budgies are members of the parrot family. Like parrots, they are extremely intelligent. In addition to being capable of mimicking human speech, these birds can learn a wide range of tricks. Their intelligence makes them worthwhile pets to have in the home, and they provide hours of entertainment. They are Pretty - The first thing that prompted people to start keeping parakeets or budgerigars as pets was their appearance. Initially, these birds only came in a single variety. These days, hundreds of color variations exist. No matter which color variation you choose, you can rest assured that your budgie will brighten up your home in a big way. They are Affordable - You don’t have to spend a fortune to buy a budgie, and you don’t have to break the bank to keep one happy and healthy. Basic budgies are sold for very low prices.

While fancy, expensive cages are available, it’s perfectly easy to find affordable options too. These birds subsist off of seeds and grains, so it doesn’t cost a lot to feed them. They are Active - Budgies don’t tend to sit around doing nothing. As long as they receive plenty of stimulation, they tend to be extremely active. It’s even more enjoyable when you adopt at least two budgies, so keep that in mind. They Make Great Companions - While budgerigars can’t tag along with you in the car or go for walks with you around the block, they still make wonderful companions. Whether your budgie learns how to “speak” or not, he is sure to become a valued member of your family. Each bird has his own distinct personality, and there’s never a dull moment with a budgie in the house. From their humble beginnings in the Australian wild, budgerigars have evolved to become among the most popular household birds. Their bright plumage, playful personalities and keen intelligence make them excellent additions to any home. Now that you know a lot more about budgies, finding the one that’s right for you should be as easy as can be.

Whether you’d like a bird with striking color variations, or if you’d prefer a more traditional budgie, you won’t be disappointed. As long as you keep your parakeet’s cage clean and provide him with plenty of food, water, toys and attention, he is sure to become your friend until the end. Cited Texts: Alderton, David. A Birdkeeper's Guide to Budgies. N.p.: Tetra Press, 1996. Allen, William H. How to Raise and Train Budgerigars. N.p: T.F.H. Publications, 1989. Binks, Gerald S. Best in Show: Breeding and Exhibiting Budgerigars. N.p: Arco Publications, 1985. Birmelin, Immanuel. Budgerigars: everything about purchase, care, nutrition, behavior, and training. N.p.: Barron’s, 1998. Birmelin, Immanuel and Niemann, Hildegard. Budgerigars: A Complete Pet Owner’s Manual. N.p. Barron’s, 2008. Feyerabend, Paul K. Parakeets.

N.p.: T.F.H. Publications, 1992. Lohr, J.E. Your First Budgerigar. N.p.: T.F.H. Publications, 1991. Radtke, George A. Step-By-Step Book About Budgerigars/Parakeets. N.p.: T.F.H. Publications, 1987. Robinson, Brian and Kelsey-Wood, Dennis. Howell’s Beginner’s Guide to Budgerigars. N.p.: Howell Book House, 1986. Teitler, Risa. Taming and Training Your First Budgerigar. N.p.: T.F.H. Publications, 1998. References Budgies (Melopsittacus undulates) Species Profile: American and English Budgerigar Budgies (Melopsittacus undulates) Species Profile: American and English Budgerigar Veterinary & Aquatic Services Department, Drs. Foster & Smith Email Article Budgerigars are often, and mistakenly, referred to as parakeets.

Originating in Australia, Budgies were imported to England where breeders took painstaking measures to develop color strains and bloodlines that were as pure as possible. As a result, English Budgies are often referred to as an Exhibition Budgie. What is commonly referred to as the American Budgie is considered in the trade to be more of a pet than a breeder exhibiting pure lines. They are the same species and both are a good deal larger than their native Australian counterparts. The Budgie, called "bet-cher-ga" by the Aborigines, was a favorite menu item in their native land. Betcherga literally means "good to eat." Extensive exportation of the Budgie resulted in Australia's limiting the number of birds allowed to leave the country. This has stimulated, over the years, extensive breeding programs all over the world to support a market for one of the most popular of all pet birds. The average cost of a Budgerigar can range from $10 to $100; the cost is generally higher for an English Budgie.

Quick Stats: Budgerigar Origin: Western Australia, New South Whales, Victoria Size: 6"-8" Coloration: Green in the wild; however, extreme range of color variations exist among pet birds Diet: 65-80% pelleted food, 15-30% vegetables, and 5% fruits. Use many varieties of fruits and vegetables, washed thoroughly. See Basic Nutrition for Psittacines (Parrot Family) for more information. Cage Size: Width is more important than height; the bigger the better as long as bar spacing is not greater than 5/8". Grooming: Trim nails and beak (although beak trims may not be necessary). Compatibility/Disposition: Social; however, patience is necessary in acclimating to handling and acquiring trust. Best to acquire at an early age, but not younger than 4 weeks. Vocalization: Males are excellent talkers and can develop quite extensive vocabularies, some may whistle; females are often less vocal. Playfulness: Play with toys and shiny objects. Require flock and/or human interaction, especially if only keeping one.

Life Span: 6-18 years Age at Maturity: 6 months Nesting Sites in the Wild: Tree hollows, especially decaying eucalyptus. Breeding Season: August to December, although often breeds opportunistically. Sexing: Male: Cere is lavender to dark blue. Female: Cere is pinkish-brown to light blue. Special: Unlike most parrots, prefers to eat on floor of cage (in a bowl). Are prone to obesity. The Budgerigar Parakeet The Budgerigar Parakeet Other Common Names: Budgie, Budgerigar, English Budgie, American Budgie Scientific Name: Melopstiiacus undulatus Relative Size: Smaller Than Average Average Lifespan: 7 years Compatibility: Relatively Non-Aggressive Category: Parrots The Budgerigar is one of the most loved parrots around the world. And it's no surprise why. They are smart, affectionate, and beautiful. The Budgie can make a wonderful addition to any home. The Budgerigar, also known as the "Budgie" or "Parakeet", comes in a wide spectrum of color variations and many varieties.

There are English and American varieties of budgies in addition the to budgies from their native country, Australia. The English Budgie is larger than its Australian and American counterparts and is most commonly seen in shows. They are a lot less active than their American cousins. The American versions are those most commonly seen in pet stores in the United States and Canada. The budgie is perhaps best loved for its friendly personality. These affectionate parrots give as much love as they like to receive. Some budgies are also excellent talkers. Their voices are not as distinct as those of the larger parrots, but one might be surprised how well these little parrots can talk. There is of course no guarantee your budgie will talk, but do not be surprised if he begins to mimic whistles and other household noises. Another engaging trait of the budgie is his ease of training. There are many methods of training and the budgie seems to respond quite well to all of them. Just remember to give your budgie time to adjust in his new home before you begin training. Many claim that males and females are easily distinguished by the color of their ceres (the area above their beaks).

The cere of the female is brown, reddish, white or light beige, while the males usually have a blue cere. Many times, however, it is not possible to distinguish sexes based on cere color alone. Both sexes of some varieties, such as the Inos and the Fallow, have the same color cere. The small size of the budgie is another appealing feature to many parakeet owners. An adult budgie will be approximately seven inches in length (18 centimeters). Budgerigars in the wild are social birds, traveling in a variety of flock sizes. Small flocks can number in the 100s, while some have noted budgie flocks of over 25,000. Like domestic budgies, their wild counterparts are placid, even tempered, and outgoing. It is rare to see wild budgies quarrelling with each other. These wild budgies are not shy and are often easily approachable. Their natural diet consists of grass seeds, eucalyptus leaves, buds, bark, millet, and a variety of greens. First discovered in 1805, the Budgerigar originates in Australia, but has quickly become a worldwide favorite.

Because of the Budgerigar's immense popularity he is known by many names throughout the world. In his native Australia he is called "Bedgerigah", the French call them "Perruche Ondulee", the Dutch have named them "Grasparkiet", in Italy they are called Parrochetto. The Norwegiens and Swedish have named them Undulat, while the Germans call them "Wellensittich". Lastly, the Greeks call them "Papagalaki", and the Portuguese word for Budgerigar is "Periquito". It is important to feed your Budgerigar a well balanced diet. Many also recommend dietary supplements. Talk with your veterinarian about the correct diet and supplements. One of the leading causes of early death in pet budgies is improper nutrition. The other six main causes of illnesses in budgies are molds, parasites (including scaly face, feather lice, coccidiosis, ornithosis, and red mites), viral infections, poisoning, shock, and respiratory diseases. Budgies should be housed in cages that provide plenty of space for movement. 16 inches x 16 inches x18 inches is the minimum size that a single budgie should be housed in.

Multiple birds will need a larger cage. Budgerigar Facts | budgerigar Message: Budgerigar Facts It's easy to fall in love with a budgerigar. For one thing, the moment when it first makes the leap from its perch to your finger is magical. It's proof that your bird has bonded with you and has come to trust you. Later, when your precious budgie begins to repeat the words and phrases that you've been reciting to it, the experience can be funny and touching at the same time. Now, not every budgie will speak, but those that do are often stunningly good at it. They can have relatively big vocabularies and are able to pronounce words clearly. In addition, the similarities between budgies and human beings are startling. Those beautiful creatures enjoy singing, stretching, scratching, snacking, and napping, and they can chatter away when they're around people and fellow birds. Indeed, they really draw energy from other budgies just as we might become enthusiastic when we're around our friends. What's more, if you usually spend quite a while in front of the mirror before heading out, you'll appreciate how your budgerigar can groom itself for long periods of time.

On top of that, if you own a couple of budgerigars, you'll understand why scientists describe this animal as monogamous. Yes, those two will be inseparable, and they'll often straighten and clean one another's feathers with tenderness. Children tend to adore budgerigars. Youngsters identify with their friskiness and talkativeness. Plus, when a budgie accepts a morsel from a child's hand, he or she might burst out in laughter and feel a surge of pride. In short, budgies ― which can see colors, count as high as three, and possess as many as 3,000 feathers ― are astounding. If you're intrigued by what you've read so far, you're sure to find the following budgie facts to be equally compelling.

Genus: Melopsittacus Alternate Names: Budgie, parakeet, canary parrot, lovebird, shell parakeet, grass parakeet and scallop parrot Height: Approximately 7 inches Weight: 1 ounce to 1.4 ounces Wingspan: 10-14 inches Common Coloring: Light-green feathers, yellow face, blue-gray legs and black striping Color Variations and Mutations: Violet, albino, blue, gray-green, clearwing, gray-winged, spangled and opaline Distinctive Features: Fluorescent pigmentation in feathers, scalloped patterns on bodies, two forward-facing toes, two backward-facing toes and spotted throats Special Traits: The ability to see ultraviolet colors, remarkably strong beaks and the ability to twist their heads 180 degrees Characteristics of Domestic and Show Budgerigars: Can be twice as big as wild budgies, have more interesting color variations and may have larger heads with crests and puffier feathers Gender Differences: The blue upper beak of the males and the brown one of the females First Description on Record: Made by botanist George Shaw in 1805 First in Captivity: During the 18

50s Conservation Status Ranking: Least concern Main Enemies: Birds of prey, snakes and hunters Average Lifespan: 5-10 years Flight Preference: Typically in large flocks Habitat: Grasslands, woodlands and hot, arid and dry areas across the continent of Australia Foraging Habits: Migratory flights across the plains and long-distant searches for food Nesting Behaviors: Several couples bringing up chicks in colonies and chewing holes in trees rather than making nests for egg laying Nesting Preferences: Eucalyptus trees Domestic Nesting Preferences: A wooden box Social Behaviors: Require stimulation, are highly sociable, curious and playful, and love to be near other budgies in the wild and in domestic situations Diet in the Wild: Grass seeds, wheat, wild millet and insects Diet in Captivity: Grains such as flax, couscous, oats, barley, millet and wild rice, vegetables and occasionally nuts and legumes Mating: Usually monogamous, showing affection by feeding and preening each other Breeding: Will breed in the wild where there is easy access to food and water, often after long rain periods Incubation: Done by the female for approximately three weeks Laying Eggs: Typically five

 or six eggs in a batch coming at different intervals Hatched Eggs: Babies born blind and need food, care and warmth from mother Fledgling Development: Open eyes around 10 days, develop actual feathers around three weeks, become more independent and active around five weeks and can leave the nest by six weeks Intelligence: Highly intelligent, can learn tricks and can whistle and mimic words and phrases Communication with Other Birds: Speak to each other by using a wide range of loud warbles Healthy Behaviors: Shredding or chewing things to file down teeth, preening and fluffing the feathers, grinding their beaks, stretching, yawning throughout the day and being very active Common Ailments: Molting, scaly legs or face, tumors, respiratory and digestive symptoms related to parrot fever, goiter, infection or inflammation of the foot and polyomavirus, which is a disease that affects new chicks Unique Features of the Females: Occasionally will eat her eggs, can lay unfertilized eggs that never hatch, will fight with other females in close quarters and rarely leaves during the incubation period Budgerigar Council of Tasmania - BCT Library Welcome to the BCT Library this page contains all articles, pictures, survey results, and other information relating to

 Budgerigars.

To navigate your way around the library use the links down the right hand side of the screen. ANBC National 2009 Archive - Burnie The Australian National Budgerigar Championships were once again hosted in Tasmania during May 2009 in Bernie. To view the archived National 2009 pages CLICK HERE . You can also access the full set of results & pictures from the 2009 National at the Live Results Feed Site. ANBC National 2002 Archive - Hobart The Australian National Budgerigar Championships were hosted in Tasmania during May 2002 in Hobart. To view the archived National 2002 pages CLICK HERE . The Origin of the Budgerigar Budgerigars also known as Melopsittacus Undulatus, are native to the country of Australia and are found in the wild in Western, Central, North Western, and South Australia and also in New South Wales and Queensland, but are absent in the state of Tasmania. In the wild the Budgerigar is only found in one variety, which is the Light Green Normal variety.

The name Budgerigar comes from a Aboriginal term which when translated means 'good bird,' or 'good food.' Sexing the Budgerigar (under 12 weeks) Cere is flat and has white around the nostrils * The cock budgerigar of the following varieties have a bold cere which is light pink in colour: Lutino, Albino, Lacewings, Recessive Pieds. ** It is often difficult to decide the sex of a young budgerigar under the age of 12 weeks Budgerigar Colour Chart Please Note: For best results with this chart, have your computer set to 256 Colours or High Colour (16-bit). Why Join a Bird Club? This question has been asked many times. Here are what we believe to be the benefits of joining your local Club or Society. 1. Most clubs are run by people with the same interest as your. 2. Free Information is available for e.g: [a] birdkeeping information and tips [b] feeding [c] health care information for your birds [d] improving your stock [e] membership gives access to purchasing rings [f] aviary designs [g] club Library [h] breeding tips 3.

Clubs have a wealth of information which has been passed down over the years and many breeders are keen to share with new members. 4. It also enables you to purchase quality bloodlines which are proven winners at the time. Top breeders are more inclined to sell surplus birds from their good stock to club members. 5. Enables you to start exhibiting your birds at shows. This is the quickest path to improving your stock, as you constantly are having your birds compared to others. 6. Become an Office Bearer - for those willing to do so over many years we have found this to be very beneficial as you are always at the forefront of the hobby and part of the decision making processes. 7. All clubs have judges training courses which can lead eventually to becoming state/national accredited judges. 8. Friendship - many lifelong friendships have had their beginnings at a local bird club meeting. As you can see we have only just touched on the subject, so why not seek out and join your local club and become part of a world wide hobby of breeding Budgerigars. Breeding and Feeding in the Wild In the wild the Budgerigars breeding habits are dictated by nature. By this we mean they only breed when feed is plentiful.

Whole breeding colonies of thousands of birds have been known to abandon their nest comprising both eggs and young and move to a new location because their food supply has been exhausted. The wild budgerigars feed exclusively on seeding grasses. If drought conditions exist or bush fires destroy the feeding grounds the flock will move on to another location and start again, this results in the loss of many thousands of young birds. The birds usually nest in what is known as Mallee (Eucalyptus or as they are better known 'Gum Trees'). They seek out every hollow that is to be found and some large hollows can have up to five breeding pairs in them, each pair usually lay four to five eggs per clutch. Breeding and Feeding for Exhibition Breeding in captivity is not very difficult but it can be testing at times. This I believe is because we have changed the domesticated bird dramatically from that found in the wild. In our endeavour to breed the champion bird for exhibition we have changed the structure of the bird. The birds are now much larger in size ( 225 mm for exhibition birds compared to 192 mm in the wild).

Their feathering has been lengthened and encouraged to grow in what is called directional feathering, this means the feathers do not follow the contour of the body as the do in the wild. This gives the appearance of a much bigger bird especially around the head area. This is not usually a problem with the cock budgerigar but in large hens it can be a major problem. (The changes to the domesticated bird are discussed in the next article.) At the F1 Stud we feed a commercially produced seed mixtures comprising: Plain Canary Seed 50%, White French Millet, Panicum, Jap Millet and Vitamins A, D3, and E all coated lightly with vegetable oil. To this we add small portions of Hulled Oats and Black Sunflower. The birds are given fresh Silver Beet every day. Carrots including tops, Apples, Sweetcorn cobs and wild seeding grasses, and especially chick weed are fed on a regular basis. When feeding young the breeding pairs are also given sprouted seeds comprising feed oats, black sunflower and mung beans every morning as well as soaked hulled oats. Chicken carcasses are thrown into the aviaries - the birds love them so much that they demolish all but the large bones.

Changes in the Domesticated Budgerigar As mentioned in Issue 1 the structure of the bird has changed dramatically over the last fifty years since fanciers around the world have been breeding this fantastic little bird. We have seen an increase in length by 33 mm as well as the body structure which has increased to the extent that the modern exhibition Budgerigar is now twice the width of the wild specimen. The changes don't stop there because the length of feather has also increased and the amount of underdown has thickened substantially. This is all well and good for exhibiting of birds, as these changes are very pleasing to the eye and with the overall standard around the world getting closer together. But with these changes we have seen problems developing in breeding, not so much with the big bold cock birds, but with the beautiful big hen birds, we have found that the best way to use these hens for breeding is when they are at about 6 months of age. If you can get more than one season out of them [count it as a bonus] as after 6 months you may have trouble getting any chicks from her. Other problems that have surfaced because of these structural changes.

These being feathers growing on the legs and feet, more weepy eye problems and the birds flight pattern is changing because of the amount of head feathering. Some birds have difficulty in seeing straight ahead without tilting their head from side to side, which in turn causes their flight pattern to alter. Although I am sure that none of us would go back in time, our challenge remains to try and get all varieties up to the one standard and of course to breed the elusive black or red budgerigar.

Sections of the Budgerigar 1 - Spots, 2 - Bib, 3 - Beak, 4 - Cere, 5 - Eye, 6 - Frontal, 7 - Topskull (Crown), 8 - Backskull, 9 - Neck, 10 - Ear, 11 - Cheek Patch, 12 - Mantle, 13 - Back Proper, 14 - Rump, 15 - Tail, 16 - Flights, 17 - Legs & Feet, 18 - Wing, 19 - Wing Butts, 20 - Front Line Build your own Budgerigar Nest Box Below are some pictures of the nest boxes we use at the F1 Stud Avery in Tasmania: If you would like to see the measurements then CLICK HERE , to download the measurement image right-click the picture and select Save Image as... Breeding & Exhibiting Yellow Faces Many Breeders today have never seen a true yellow face, commonly called Australian Yellow Face or Golden Face. Good examples of these birds are rare today as most breeders now concentrate on the English Yellow Face [Cream Face]. Australian Yellow Face Type 1 Commonly called single factor.

Usually appear as good coloured when young but when they moult most develop a yellow wash down through the chest and in the tail secondaries. Breeding: Type 1 x white-faced bird = 50% type 1 yellow face 50% white face [does not carry yellow face] Type 1 x type 1 = 25% type 2 yellow face 50% type 1 yellow face 25% white face [no yellow face carried] Type 2 Commonly called double factor. Good examples of these do not have the yellow wash down through chest area. Experienced breeders can pick type 2 from type 1 by the under colour of the secondary flight feathers, (Double factors have white markings in this area, while single factors are yellow in colour). Non experienced breeders have to test mate them. Type 2 x white face = 100% type 1 yellow face Type 2 x type 1 = 50% type 2 50% type 1 Type 2 x type 2 = 100% type 2 yellow face Common faults of these varieties are poor colouring. Achieving the desired expectation from matings.

Birds appeared to be long necked. English Yellow Face - Cream Face As I mentioned before these birds have almost wiped out the true Australian Yellow Face. Cream Face x white face = 50% cream face = 50% white face Cream Face x cream face = 50% cream face 50% white face [double factor cream face] White face double factor x white face = 100% cream face Common faults of these varieties are yellow wash down chest area of those of blue colouring. Most good examples of these are bred through the grey variety. As breeders of these birds for many years the best colour contrast is obtained from using normal grey. Good examples can be seen when dark factor blues are introduced. For a truly beautiful bird try breeding a spangle yellow face opaline cinnamon grey, they are very pleasing to the eye. Incubating Budgie Eggs We had a question regarding "Incubating Budgerigar Eggs", at the time we did not know of any method for achieving this, but we recently received a reply from a reader that has successfully achieved this.

Here's the original question again and the new reply: Incubating Budgie Eggs What is the most successful way to artificially incubate and hatch budgie eggs? What is the best container to hold the eggs? Would an aquarium work? What is the right temperature and humidity in order for the eggs to hatch? - Brenda Watson Re: Incubating Budgie Eggs I have successfully incubated budgie eggs at 98 ºF (36.67 ºC) and 70% humidity they must be turned at least 6 times per 24 hours - Andy Spence Exhibition Budgerigar - Year Round Feeding Points to remember when deciding to breed and exhibit Budgerigars In the wild [a] They are ground feeding seed eating birds [b] They breed only when feed, water are plentiful [c] When nature dictates that these are not available they stop breeding and move on. In captivity The birds are still subjected to the rule of nature so we must create an artificial environment for our breeding and show seasons feeding is a major factor in creating these environments. At the F1 Stud Our birds are fed a variety of seeds and supplements depending on what is happening.

We break the year into three seasons: [a] Breeding - late August to late January [b] Showing - from February to June [c] Rest & recreation - mid June to late August Breeding Season Budgerigar Breeders Mix (50% canary) Shell Grit Tree Branches [aviary]- Gum Tree Meat & Chicken bones [aviary] Start increasing amount of seed given. New tree branches weekly. Remember you will only get out of this hobby what you are prepared to put in. Moving House with your Stud Moving from an existing well established Aviary [20 years old] to no aviary only a large tin shed. How this was accomplished! * With a Stud of approximately 200 Budgerigars and at the end of the Show Season with 2 pairs still breeding. * An extension was built onto an existing shed approx. 6 metres x 6 metres with concrete floor making it completely mouse proof. * All cages were to come. * Travel distance for moving was approximately ½ hour. * Birds were transported in a specially designed Budgerigar travel cage with 40 separate small cages, which held 4 birds each and then folded together making the environment dark for travel.

* For the 2 pairs still breeding [with very new babies]. The nest boxes were attached to 2 old show cages and transported [with both hens not even leaving the nest] and reattached to breeding cages at new residence. * All birds were housed in training type cages within the tin shed. * Building commenced  all walls were lined and insulated [for the purpose to prevent cold in winter and against heat in summer.]. * An indoor flight was built with plans for an extension of an outdoor flight to be attached and various other amenities to be added at a later date. * Breeding cages have been set up and birds now have been paired ready for breeding. * This has taken approximately 2 months and we look forward to a good breeding season in our new environment. Breeding in a New Environment  the Pitfalls and Advantages Well, the breeding season is fast drawing to a close and this being a short season due to the moving and building of the breeding room etc. our numbers are down on past seasons, our season usually runs for six months, this one has been for only three months.

The new environment has worked well even though it is not finished, the birds have adapted to the change with no significant failures apart from the normal ones of getting those birds of superior quality to breed. In retrospect if we had our time over again, we would try to move in the non breeding season, this would give the birds more time to settle in and become accustomed to the new housing and possibly come into their natural breeding condition. The good news is we have bred some Quality birds which after they moult should be competitive on the show bench, we will give an update on the youngsters in the next issue. The Basic Requirements for your Budgerigar [1] FOOD A good quality Budgerigar Mix, ie a premium mix is desirable. Budgerigars will also appreciate seeds added to this diet such as hulled oats and sunflower seeds, in small quantities. when the bird moults [especially the first moult at 3 months of age], the extra oils and carbohydrates provided by these seeds assist with the growth of new feathers. At moulting time extra canary seed [for protein] is also desirable, as feathers are mostly protein and canary seeds being high in protein will help new growth.

Remember to check seed is always available, and blow the seed husks off the dish. [2] WATER A clean supply changed daily is required. Birds will also bathe if water is placed in a dish on the floor of the cage. Water helps new feathers grow, helping to soften pin feathers Water also assists in preening, keeping feathers clean and stimulating oil placement by the bird. [3] SHELL GRIT All birds require grit as they have no teeth. They use the grit to help crush seed in the digestive process. A regular supply is necessary. Beach sand, shell grit, fine river gravel must be clean. Give a varied supply from different sources. Grit is available at pet shops. [4] CALCIUM SUPPLY Cuttle fish bone should always be available to your bird. If this is unavailable calcium bells are easily obtained from pet shops. [5] EXTRAS [i] Silver beet [ii] Carrot [iii] apple [iv] bread [v] chicken bones [vi] wild seeding grasses [6] EXERCISE Your bird should be allowed to fly once a day if possible. The cage should have enough space for the birds to be able to fly or hover.

Do not clutter the cage with toys. [7] SUNSHINE Provide indirect light such as broken sunshine or partial sunlight to the bird cage. Do not cook the bird by leaving it in full sunshine either inside or out. Generally where you would be comfortable applies to the bird. [8] SECURITY Keep a peg on the door and make sure cats cannot knock the cage over. Keep an eye on your bird if placed outside. [9] CLEANLINESS Clean the cage, perches, and dishes at regular intervals, e.g. every 1 or 2 weeks. [10] DO NOT 1. DO NOT keep the bird in a cold draughty place. 2. DO NOT let the bird fly with electrical items such as heaters or fans operating in your house. Also water is dangerous as the bird could drown, e.g. baths, sinks, etc. Pull curtains closed as birds may fly into the glass if they do not know the house or are frightened. 3. DO NOT purchase cane bird cages as budgies can eat them and get out.

Culling Birds Here are the NECESSARY ESSENTIALS to look at when culling your Budgerigars: [1] BIRDS - No favourites unless you are trying to breed or improve a certain variety. [2] SHOW CAGES - Essential for assessing birds at any time. [3] TRESTLES TO CARRY AT LEAST 8 CAGES - To get a fair assessment of birds - as many as possible. [4] GOOD RECORDS - Showing family lines etc., good breeding traits and history. [5] TIME - Plenty of time because it is a slow process [6] GOAL - Where is your pinnacle ? What do you want to achieve? [7] COMMITMENT - Prepared to make the hard decisions that will be required. [8] KNOWLEDGE - A little knowledge will help make your decisions easier. Budgie Word Glossary Below is a list of few words used in reference to Budgerigars and their meanings: CERE - The section of a Budgerigar that is above the beak, the birds nostrils are also located here. [See Sexing the Budgerigar ] RUNNER A Budgerigar suffering from French Moult.

UNBROKEN CAP - Is the name given to a Budgerigar under the age of 12 weeks (approx.) or until they commence their first moult. In most varieties it is easily identified by the barring across the head and the lack of an iris in the eye. Also known as UBC or Nest Feather. DIRECTIONAL FEATHER - Term used when describing the feather on a bird's head. Breeders today endeavour to breed their show birds with head feathers growing outwards away from the head, this type of feathering tends to give the impression that the bird has a large head. PINCHED, NARROW, HAWK EYED - Terms used to describe birds with no head size and lack of directional feathering. GOOD BLOW - Ability of a bird to puff their head feathering, again giving the impression that the bird has a larger head. HEAVY WINGS - Used to describe birds with large secondary flights, also birds with long primary flights that fan out and hang down instead of being tight and follow the contour of the body. LEG FEATHERS - In our endeavour to breed birds with more feather, we are now breeding them with feathers growing on the lower leg.

This is unsightly to the eye and is regarded as a fault when showing, therefore, the feathers need to be removed by trimming with small scissors before exhibiting in shows. PENCIL SHAPE - Birds that are long and thin, with lack of shoulder. TYPE - Term used when describing general conformation, including balance, deportment, size and condition. Type is very important to those showing birds. CLEFT MASK - Birds with this give the impression that the mask is split down the middle. GROUND COLOUR - This is the underlying colour, white in the blue series, yellow in the green series, upon which all other pigments and markings are superimposed. Survey Results Archive This website's roots stem from an old website that was online from 1996 to 2001 called the "F1 Stud Web Page".

On that site they conducted a number of surveys, the results from these surveys are archived here for your information Click on the Issue Number to view the Results of that Survey Australian Native Bush Budgies - The Pet Directory Australia - Bird - World's largest online pet directory [go back to Budgerigar (Melopsittacus undulatus)] Australian Native Bush Budgies We breed the Australian native Budgerigars more commonly called wild or 'Bush Budgies' (these are the small green budgies [180mm including a 95mm tail] found in the grasslands of central Australia). You do not need a permit to keep Bush Budgies. However, it is illegal to take them from the wild without the appropriate government permits. We can air freight anywhere in Australia. Our budgies have been supplied to zoos, wildlife parks and universities across Australia. We have a blue gene in our flock with occasional blue bush budgie baby birds. phone: Listening Earth - Budgerigar sounds of wild budgies, Australia, mp3 download, CD For Budgies and their owners Budgerigars are very social birds, and seem to require the 'vibe' of the flock for their wellbeing.

These recordings were made in remote locations in outback Australia - home of the budgie - and feature Budgerigars singing along with other species that share their native environment. The response of domestic budgies to hearing these sounds is often quite extraordinary; they really can get quite animated! These albums are intended to bring health-promoting stimulation to pet birds (not to mention relaxing listening for their owners). Sort by:

Question: Budgerigars are native to which country?
Answer: Australia