Galahs - Introduction to the Australian Galah Galahs Galahs, where to begin? Galahs are a pink and grey coloured cockatoo found in most areas of Australia. Galahs have the reputation of being somewhat of a pest or nuisance. But Galahs are actually a highly intelligent, social and highly adaptable animal. This website on Galahs is dedicated to providing the most comprehensive coverage of the Australian Galah on the free internet. Galahs Search Use Google to search this site or the Internet for specific information on the Australian Galah. The Australian Galah (a thorough summary) Galah is an English word (Australian) pronounced ga-lah. It originates from the Yuwaalaraay (Aboriginal language of southeast Australia) word gilaa. This is highly disputed between… Eolophus roseicapillus The Cacatua genus includes the Sulphur-Crested Cockatoos.

Bird Group : Psittaciformes - Cockatoos, Parrots Bird Family : Cacatuidae - Cockatoos, Cockatiel Bird Name : Cacatua roseicapilla - Galah Galahs are 35 – 38 centimetres in length and weight between 300 – 435 grams. Galahs flight feathers and back are grey; The Galahs crown is pale pink (almost white); The neck and underparts of the Galah are rose-red. Males: Dark brown iris (area of the eye that surrounds the pupil) Females: Pink iris and their body is generally smaller in size. YOUNG galahs have greyish plumage and a grey periophthalmic ring (naked area around their eyes) fades as the galah approach the immature stage. IMMATURE galahs will have a pale brown iris. The periophthalmic will develop more wrinkles as the galah ages. These galahs are found in central and northern Australia. Roseicapillus Galahs have a pink periophthalmic ring. WESTERN - E.

roseicapillus assimilis These galahs are found in Western Australia as far north as the Fortescue and probably the De Grey Rivers. Assimilis Galahs general have a paler plumage; crown more strongly suffused with pink; naked periophthalmic ring greyish white. NORTHERN - E. roseicapillus Kuhli These galahs are found in the Kimberly region of (northern) Western Australia Kuhli Galahs general have a paler plumage; crown more strongly suffused with pink; grey-red periophthalmic ring. High-pitched, splintered identifying call "chill chill " Harsher screeches when threatened, fighting or just having fun. Soft, muffled calls to communicate with mates and to initiate close contact. Distribution of Galahs Galahs can now be found in every location and state of Australia (except some rainforest areas). Galahs and their Spread across Australia. Galahs are one of the few animals that have benefited from the arrival of European settlers to Australia. The clearing of land and planting of cereal crops have really suited galahs.

This led to the increase in galah populations, and the galahs expansion into every corner of Australia (helped also by the escape of pet galahs, especially in Tasmania). Galahs were originally found to live only in the semi-arid areas of Australia. Originally galahs were recorded to live on the East Coast or Tasmania. Galahs Diets Galahs naturally feed on grasses, herbs, seeds, nuts, berries, roots, green shoots and leaf buds. Sometimes eating insects and their larvae when additional protein is required such as when breeding. After the arrival of European settlers galahs also feed on (and often prefer) grains, cereal crops, sunflower seeds and sometimes fruit. Pet galahs should be fed a mixed diet of seeds (limit sunflower seeds as its high in fat), grass, leafy vegetables, fruit, oats and corn. Also provide shell grit and cuttle fish for calcium. Galahs also require a daily supply of fresh water for drinking and occasionally bathing. Galahs Social Habits Galahs are a highly social animal. If circumstances allow galahs will form a close bond with a mate (member of the opposite sex) whom with they will breed with for life.

If their mate dies galahs have been know to become quite depressed, though they usually will find a new mate. Galahs show affection to their mate by preening each other’s facial feathers. Galahs stick together in flocks that can range from as little as four to over one hundred birds. Galahs will however form pairs to leave the flock to nest. Galahs are not highly territorial and they often share roosting trees and food sources though minor squabbles frequently occur. The Galah is a sedentary bird. It tends to sit around and remains in one area. When Galahs pair off, they form loose groups with other pairs. When they are eating, one bird will keep watch and if disturbed, the entire flock will fly off. This behaviour occurs when the Galah is feeding with other types of birds such as the Sulphur-crested Cockatoo. The Galah is unapproachable at that time. It is easier to approach the Galah if the entire flock is made up only of Galahs. During hot midday hours, Galahs rest in trees. Galahs are not a shy animal!

A galah that is kept in captivity will often form a bond with a particular human carer or even other pets such as a dog or cat. They may shun or even attack other humans, pets whilst being a perfectly behaved galah to their adopted mate. Like most parrots, galahs rely heavily on their sense of sight. Galahs can be tricked into thinking their reflection in a mirror is actually that of another galah. Mirrors must be avoided if you wish to form a strong bond with your pet galah. Breeding and Nesting of Galahs Galahs rarely reach maturity and breed before their fourth year. A female galah that breeds too early is prone to become egg bound. Galahs usually breed in hollow logs on eucalyptus tree. The galahs will line the nest with eucalypt leaves. Galahs usually lay between 2 to 5 eggs. Both the male and female bird will take turns incubating (sitting on) the eggs. The galah eggs will hatch in approximately 30 days. Again both the male and female galah will take turns brooding and feeding the babies.

A parent galah will feed a baby galah by regurgitating food it has eaten prior into the baby’s mouth. After six to seven weeks a baby galah should be able to fly and leave the nest. Its parents will continue to support it for a few more weeks until it can fend and feed itself. Then the parent galahs usually become quite hostile, chasing away and disassociating themselves with their offspring. The juvenile galahs will then join a flock of other juvenile birds until they reach breeding maturity (about 4 years). The galahs will then pair off and the cycle begins again. Lifespan of Galahs It is unusual for wild galahs usually to survive beyond 30 years of age. Cars, cats and sooting are the three main causes of death for wild galahs. In captivity galahs can live to 80 years of age. So galahs are definitely a pet for life! Pet Potential of Galahs Galahs have been successfully kept as pets. Best success in achieving a friendly bird is to obtain a hand reared bird. Some hand-reared galahs will actually think of themselves more as a human than as a bird.

It is important all pet galahs have the opportunity to fly, either in a large aviary or in the home. Galahs are very inclined to just want to walk or climb around their enclosure. This can be overcome by putting the galahs food on a pedestal that requires flight to reach. Also don’t link all perch’s with connecting walkways. Both sexes of galahs can imitate human voice but male galahs are known to be better talkers. Recent research into parrots seems to indicate that galahs can develop the communication and problem solving skill level of a two-year old child. For more information on the Australian Galah please refer to the referenced Resource Articles contained in this site. My Story Note: First I must mention that I do not currently breed Galahs or have any available for sale. I also rarely take in injured, unwanted or baby Galahs. I became introduced to these fascinating cockatoos when as a child I was given a Galah as a present from my Aunty Kathy. It was 1989 and named him Fred after the Galah in the poem Rub-a-dub-dub. As you will realise I actually named him incorrectly. Woops!

Fred was a middle aged Galah that was fairly tame, though when he didn’t get his way he was known to bite, HARD! Fred’s most famous talent was his ability to play soccer with a little plastic ball. If you rolled it near him he would chase it, pick it up with his foot, throw it forward and then chase after it again. I entered a newspaper colouring in competition where I drew a detailed picture of Fred playing soccer, which won me a Don Spencer’s LP which included the song “He’s a Smart Galah”. Fred spent most of his time outside in a mid size cage, and was covered at night with my childhood favourite, blue cuddle-blanket. Being a Galah he quickly chewed to bits. Apart from soccer Fred liked to chew everything! Fred learnt to imitate a whistle my mum taught him and was on the verge of learning to speak when we lost Fred. Whilst sitting on my hat (his favourite perch) playing with my hair, I noticed my little sister was holding the front screen door of our house wide open. I told her to shut the door as Fred was inside.

Her famous last words “ he won’t fly out” still hangs uneasily in the air whenever the story of Fred is brought up. In most situations she would have been right, but this time there was a flock of galahs outside calling out wildly, and Fred was getting excited. So excited he jumped of my head and flew right out the door to meet them. This wasn’t the first time Fred had escaped. Another time springs to mind where my mum had to rescue him from a couple of magpies that weren’t impressed with him being in their territory (our front yard). With a bicycle helmet and sunglasses on, mum carried Fred back to the safety of the house. This time however concluded our association with Fred the Galah as we moved homes before being able to lure him back into captivity. He had tasted freedom, and he liked it! It would be a few more years before we would own our next Galah. During this interim we continued to own pet budgerigars and we had also taken care of many other sick or abandoned birds. These included rosellas, grass parrots and crested-pigeons that we then released once they were healthy enough. In 1992 my parents bought me my next Galah.

A young female I named Georgie. We built Georgie a large aviary and though she was not very tame I spent copious amounts of time with her every everyday before and after school. She eventually gained enough confidence to approach me of her own accord and eat from my hand. Having a pet Galah often lures more Galahs to your yard. Surprisingly having a single female Galah lures plenty of single male Galahs trying to find a way in (to the aviary that is ;). One day a male Galah was looking very interested in Georgie and when we approached him he responded by saying; “Hello” when we returned the greeting he replied; “My name’s Joe” he then walked down to door of the aviary, so mum opened it. He casually but confidently walked in, and climbed up the cage to take his position next to Georgie. Joe was an extremely tame bird that for the first few weeks was extremely friendly (obviously a lost pet). But things soon changed. One day whilst dad was repairing aviary frame (Joe and Georgie decided that the hardwood frame was good for chewing) Joe came over to inspect his handy work.

But when he got out the hammer to nail in some supporting bracing Joe changed. He raised his crest, looked at dad and said: “Beeee-care-fullll!!!” When dad started hammering Joe jumped on him and started biting him. Dad was not impressed! I had to plead with him not to release him. Joe now became extremely defensive of HIS (capital letters) aviary. You could still go in there but if you didn’t come offering acceptable gifts such as fresh grass, dandelion flowers or broccoli pods watch out! He was vicious! He particularly didn’t fancy bare feet, and would lunge for the skin between your toes. Joes mood swings were very erratic. He would be a ‘friendly chappie’ one minute and complete monster the next. Many unsuspecting visitors to our house who fell for Joes trap soon experienced his wrath. They would disobey our warnings. “He’s so friendly. Look he’s eating out of my hand. You have this bird all wrong” then as though he knows you have put your guard down, “Whack!” he’s taken your finger tip right off. Sometime he was considerate enough to issue his eerie warning before striking.

“Beeee-care-fullll!!!” When Georgie was two and a half years old we built a large nesting box for her. Unfortunately she became egg bound and died suddenly without any warning. Joe suddenly became less aggressive. We soon realised it wasn’t the same old Joe anymore as he fell into a mild depression. He now required constant attention to keep him interested otherwise he just sat quietly in the back corner of the aviary. We decided the best thing for Joe was to release him back into the wild. Till this day (February 2005) Joe still comes back to our backyard for a free feed. He found a new mate and sometimes graces us by returning with his new offspring. Joe still isn’t scared of humans and will give unsuspecting humans a quick nip if they are a little too slow for his liking when pouring the seed into the bird feeder. Surprisingly though he is scared of the other wild Galahs and will run (waddle) over to you for support if they dare try and eat his seed. Joe, our scared bully Galah. We have also raised many sick, injured or abandoned baby Galahs (though some unfortunately didn’t make it).

The lucky ones that survive we have released or if tame given to good homes. Though we currently do not have any galahs in our ownership, we continue to enjoy their company when they come to explore out garden. End Notes I hope you enjoy this website dedicated to the Australian Galah, the information I have collated on this page and the story of my involvement with these fascinating creatures. Like all animals Galahs are just trying to survive in this complex and ever changing world we humans have created. Galahs rarely receive the credit this highly intelligent, complex and adaptable animal deserves. It is interesting to note that like us humans: - Galahs forge a lifelong bond with their mates. - both the male and female galahs share the responsibility of raising their young. - Galahs belong to complex social groups that change as they get older. - Galahs are also a fun loving animal that likes to muck about and be happy. The similarities go on and on. I actually think there is a little bit of Galah in all of us.

Cheers Galah - Australian Museum Australian Museum Galahs can breed with other members of the cockatoo family, including the Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, Cacatua galerita. Galah, in flight Photographer: AD Trounson © Australian Museum Standard Common Name Galah Identification The Galah can be easily identified by its rose-pink head, neck and underparts, with paler pink crown, and grey back, wings and undertail. Birds from the west of Australia have comparatively paler plumage. Galahs have a bouncing acrobatic flight, but spend much of the day sheltering from heat in the foliage of trees and shrubs. Huge noisy flocks of birds congregate and roost together at night. Size range 35 cm to 36 cm Similar Species Gang-gang Cockatoo Distribution The Galah is one of the most abundant and familiar of the Australian parrots, occurring over most of Australia, including some offshore islands. Habitat The Galah is found in large flocks in a variety of timbered habitats, usually near water. Feeding and Diet Galahs form huge, noisy flocks which feed on seeds, mostly from the ground.

Seeds of grasses and cultivated crops are eaten, making these birds agricultural pests in some areas. Birds may travel large distances in search of favourable feeding grounds. Communication The voice is a distinctive high-pitched screech, 'chi-chi'. Mating and reproduction Galahs form permanent pair bonds, although a bird will take a new partner if the other one dies. The nest is a tree hollow or similar location, lined with leaves. Both sexes incubate the eggs and care for the young. There is high chick mortality in Galahs, with up to 50% of chicks dying in the first six months. Galahs have been recorded breeding with other members of the cockatoo family, both in the wild and captivity. These include the Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, C. galerita. Breeding season: February to July in the north; July to December in the south Clutch size: 3 to 4 Economic/social impacts The Galah is becoming more abundant around areas of human habitation, with the growth in population largely a result of increasing availability of food and water. Escaped aviary birds have also contributed to these numbers.

Classification Galah | BIRDS in BACKYARDS BIRDS in BACKYARDS Galah Did you know? Galahs can breed with other members of the cockatoo family, including the Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, C. galerita. Calls February to July in the north; July to December in the south Clutch Size: What does it look like? Description: The Galah can be easily identified by its rose-pink head, neck and underparts, with paler pink crown, and grey back, wings and undertail. Birds from the west of Australia have comparatively paler plumage. Galahs have a bouncing acrobatic flight, but spend much of the day sheltering from heat in the foliage of trees and shrubs. Huge noisy flocks of birds congregate and roost together at night. Similar species: The Galah is generally unmistakable, but in flight may resemble a Gang-gang Cockatoo in shape. Where does it live? Distribution: The Galah is one of the most abundant and familiar of the Australian parrots, occurring over most of Australia, including some offshore islands.

Habitat: The Galah is found in large flocks in a variety of timbered habitats, usually near water. What does it do? Feeding: Galahs form huge, noisy flocks which feed on seeds, mostly from the ground. Seeds of grasses and cultivated crops are eaten, making these birds agricultural pests in some areas. Birds may travel large distances in search of favourable feeding grounds. Breeding: Galahs form permanent pair bonds, although a bird will take a new partner if the other one dies. The nest is a tree hollow or similar location, lined with leaves. Both sexes incubate the eggs and care for the young. There is high chick mortality in Galahs, with up to 50 % of chicks dying in the first six months. Galahs have been recorded breeding with other members of the cockatoo family, both in the wild and captivity. These include the Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, C. galerita. Living with us The Galah is becoming more abundant around areas of human habitation, with the growth in population largely a result of increasing availability of food and water. Escaped aviary birds have also contributed to these numbers.

References: Sulphur Crested Cockatoo Prices Sulphur Crested Cockatoo Prices Sulphur Crested Cockatoo Sulphur Crested Cockatoo Prices Cockatoos come from the Cacatua genus and have given us the gift of seventeen species to admire and enjoy. Generally speaking, the cockatoo is a white bird that can range in size from 12 inches to about twenty seven inches in length and presents a beautiful crest that stands tall and seems to dance before your very eyes. Generally speaking… In not so general terms, the seventeen species within the cockatoo family have very distinct differences that often confuse the lay person into believing it is a different type of bird altogether!

The different species in cockatoos are the Goffin’s Cockatoo, Umbrella Cockatoo, Moluccan Cockatoo, the Lesser Sulphur Crested Cockatoo, the Sulphur Crested Cockatoo (Greator Sulphur Crested and Triton), the Galah or Rose Breasted Cockatoo, the Bare Eyed Cockatoo, Ducorp’s Cockatoo, Red Vented Cockatoo, Leadbeater’s Cockatoo, Gang Gang Cockatoo, Blue Eyed Cockatoos, Black Cockatoos, Red Tailed Black Cockatoo, and Palm Cockatoo or Goliath Palm. The Sulphur Crested Cockatoo comes in 4 varieties (Greator Sulphur Crested Cockatoo, Eleonora Cockatoos, Medium Sulphur Crested Cockatoos, and Triton Cockatoos; they are all of the same species, but form different subspecies. The size of these birds will vary, as will the personality and talking ability, generally, the Greator Sulphur Crested Cockatoo, as the largest within the species, is the most expensive of the “Sulphurs”.

Just like the Lessor Sulphur Crested Cockatoo, the Sulphor Crested Cockatoo can range in price from $500 to $1,000, with the most expensive price being that charged at a pet store, while the lower range (somewhere between $500 and $800) is the common fee charged by most breeders. In order to better understand where the Sulphur Crested Cockatoo is situated as far as price goes, when compared to other cockatoos, it is somewhat of a middle range cockatoo. While the Goffin’s Cockatoo can sell for $400 (or even less), a Blue Eyed Cockatoo may sell for $10,000, and a Black Cockatoo or Red Tailed Black Cockatoo can sell for even more. The prices greatly vary and are dependent on rarity, size, quality, origin, documentation, and more.

One very sad note about the Cockatoo is that it is ranked among the top bird that is re – sold as an adult or relinquished when its demanding personality and loud screeches to voice its demands, are deemed as irreconcilable differences with its human partner or partners. A bird such as the cockatoo becomes very attached to its human companion and simply asks for more attention in a very loud voice. If its demands go without a response, it will simply screech even louder. A person who has not yet brought a Cockatoo home, but is considering acquiring one, should be honest about the commitment in daily time and in future years he or she is willing to give. A Cockatoo may live to be 40 or 60 years old, and if you are unwilling to spend time with this loving, yet demanding bird, then it is best to reconsider. The Australian Galah - Article 015 PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS: The Galah's size averages about 14 inches (36 cm.) in length and it weighs about 300 to 400 grams. The Galah is considered a very attractive bird to look at due to its beautiful coloration.

Most of the bird is a rich dark pink with the forehead, crown, and the back of the neck being a whitish-pink. The back, the wings, and the tail are gray. The lower abdomen, the vent area, the rump, and the secondary and upper tail feathers that cover the bases of the main feathers are whitish gray. The periopthalmic ring, which surrounds the eye, is rose-red and the iris is dark brown. The feet and legs of the Galah are gray and the bill is horn-colored. DISTRIBUTION and HABITAT: Prior to the Europeans arriving in Australia, the Galah was restricted to the very dry interior of Australia. Over the past years, it has expanded its range to north of Derby, north-west Western Australia and north throughout the Northern Territory (Caris, 1999). The Galah originally was found at lower elevations. It prefers open habitats, which include semi-desert, plains, open woodland, farmland, grain fields, golf courses, parklands, and grassland with trees in semi-arid zones. BEHAVIOR: The Galah is a sedentary bird. It tends to sit around and remains in one area.

When Galahs pair off, they form loose groups with other pairs. When they are eating, one bird will keep watch and if disturbed, the entire flock will fly off. This behavior occurs when the Galah is feeding with other types of birds such as the Sulphur-crested Cockatoo. The Galah is unapproachable at that time. It is easier to approach the Galah if the entire flock is made up only of Galahs. During hot midday hours, Galahs rest in trees. DIET: Most of the diet of the Galah consists of seeds and other plant material gathered mainly on the ground. It includes grass seeds (button grass, Flinder's grass, Mitchell grass, peppergrass), herbaceous plants and seeds (lambs quarter, etc.), grain (especially wheat and oats), fruits, berries, nuts, roots, shoots, buds, and some insects and their larvae. During times of drought, seeds of trees (acacias, eucalyptus) are eaten. Galahs also forage for food in flocks. While in these flocks, Galahs use their great numbers to their advantage in locating food resources. Local agriculture suffer losses from these immense hungry flocks.

BREEDING and NESTING: Galahs rarely reach maturity and breed before the fourth year. Galahs will look for and find suitable mates from February to July in the north and July to December in the south. Once paired, they separate themselves from the flock and begin building a nest. Usual nesting sites are tree cavities that vary from 2 to 20 inches in height. Parents chew bark and rotten wood away from the nest entrance and line the bottom with eucalyptus leaves. A clutch is made up of two to five oval white eggs about 1.39 x 1.04 inches in size. Incubation lasts 30 days and both parents brood the eggs and care for the young. Galah fledglings are moved to a creche that may be about a mile away from the nest. There they wait with other fledglings while their parents forage for food. Young Galahs become independent about five to six weeks after leaving the nest The Galah is abundant and widely dispersed over Australia's interior. It is found in the wild in immense numbers, probably ranging in the multi thousands. The Galah is not considered a valuable bird.

Agriculturists of Australia consider them to be a pest, especially in the grain-producing districts. The Galah is probably on the increase and settling in new areas. Galahs are abundant in the wild. Mahalo to Leeward Community College's Zoology 101 Class for their contribution (Accessed 11/05/2001) Contributed by: Francine M. Fujiwara This information submitted as an assignment for Zoology 101 at Leeward Community College Zoology 101 Home Page BirdsnWays Cockatoo Heaven - Gang Gang Cockatoos Rose-breasted Cockatoo (USA usage), Rose Cockatoo. SIZE Length about 35 cm (14"), weight about 300 to 400 grams SEXING The sexes are very similar except for the eye colour. A mature female will develop a coppery red iris while the male, and immature females, have a very dark iris. SUBSPECIES The common subspecies in aviculture and in the wild through much of Australia is C. r. roseicapillus. A second subspecies, C. r.

assimilis, is found in much of Western Australia and is distinguished by a paler grey body colour. A third subspecies, C. r. kuhli, has been recognised in the northern part of Western Australia, and into the Northern Territory. It is a smaller bird, about 30 cm, and exhibits differences in the periopthalmic eye ring. NATURAL OCCURRENCE The Galah is one of the most widespread of Australia's parrots, being found in all states. It is only absent from the most arid country and from the tip of Cape York. It prefers open grasslands and woodland, is a common species in the cities and towns, and has adapted well to farmed land. The species is gregarious, often forming flocks of several hundreds, although when foraging for food these large flocks will often split into small groups, coming together again at the evening roost site. Feeding is often done on the ground and their food in the wild is dominantly seed, nuts and fruit, and they can cause major damage to cultivated grain crops. For this reason the bird is regarded as a pest species in many parts of its range, and licensed culling is permitted in certain states.

The breeding season extends from July to December in the south and February to July in the tropical north. A nesting hollow is lined with leaves and twigs carried into the nest, and usually 3 or 4 eggs are laid. Incubation is shared by both parents over a 30 day period and the babies leave the nest at about 8 weeks old. AVICULTURE The Galah, like the Sulphur-crested Cockatoo, is commonly kept as a pet bird, but is rarely bred in aviaries in Australia due to the depressed effect on the price of any progeny caused by the ready availability of legally wild caught young birds. Like other members of the Cockatoo group, an aviary at least 5 metres by 1.2 metres by 2 metres high is required, constructed of materials to withstand the inevitable chewing that will occur. A nest box around a 60 to 90 cm deep and about 30 cm in diameter should be supplied. An essential requirement is to keep a constant supply of fresh branches of eucalyptus and other native trees available to avoid boredom. A supply of leaves that can be used to line the nest box is also essential.

Mate aggression can be a problem if older birds are introduced to each other but seems to be less of a problem with birds that are paired up at a young age. Another problem with breeding birds is that they seem to be very clumsy, and broken eggs are by no means uncommon. There appears to be no easy solution to this, although a nest box mounted at an angle or a nest box with a bottom chamber off to one side, so that the parents do not jump down onto the eggs, may be helpful. Alternatively patience is useful, since the problem seems to decrease with age. The diet needs to be varied, balanced and interesting. A variety of seeds such as wheat, hulled oats, canary, and some grey striped sunflower, should be provided as well as a wide range of fresh vegetables and fruit. Animal protein is also beneficial, given by way of chicken or chop bones, mealworms or other grubs. A tendency of the species to become overweight should be guarded against, and there are arguments for the use of pellets rather than seed for the Galah. The encouragement of flying by the birds is also helpful.

Galahs have a tendency to prefer to climb around the aviary rather than fly, and so careful siting of perches and food dishes can help to ensure the birds have to do some flying. MUTATIONS A lutino Galah (illustrated right) is becoming well established in Australian aviaries, while cinnamon, silver, and grey and white mutations are also known to exist. PET POTENTIAL The Galah can make an excellent pet, with even wild caught young birds capable of becoming affectionate and friendly birds. They will however often become a little unpredictable when mature, and should never be allowed to spend time on a shoulder. They are extremely playful and intelligent birds, which, like most cockatoos, need constant stimulation with toys to play with, and objects to chew, to keep them from getting bored. They are not generally noisy, apart from early morning and evening, although some are the exception to the rule. Both sexes can become good talkers, possibly with the males being somewhat better, however their talking ability is not usually on a par with either Sulphur-crested Cockatoos or the Corellas. PRICE A wild caught young bird can be obtained for under $100au in Queensland.

However because of the potential disease problems (particularly Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease) of wild caught birds, aviary raised birds are more expensive and a hand raised, aviary bred bird certified free of PBFD can fetch up to $300au. OTHER SITES FOR INFORMATION: COCKATOOS COCKATOOS COCKATOOS Description: Cockatoos vary in size the most common cockatoos you will find are The White Cockatoos. The most obvious external feature of any cockatoo is the erectile crest that rises immediately after alighting and when alarmed or excited. The strong, heavy beak of the cockatoo is used to crack large seeds but can also produce a powerful and destructive bite. With a lifespan of up to 80 years with some cockatoo species, these birds CAN make wonderful lifelong friends. They have lovely personalities and a cuddly nature. As Pets: Cockatoos are very complex birds and are known as Velcro Birds because of their need for attention and affection.

These friendly birds should not be taken lightly they can and will be very very noisy and destructive on the other hand they are very friendly birds and often good talkers, cockatoos are very challenging and need an experienced and committed carers who are willing to provide a lot of training, toys and love. Cockatoos also tend to bond and can over bond with one person this can cause problems in a family environment as these birds need to be out of their cages for very long periods of the day, so someone who works 8 hours a day would not really be suitable unless you have a "birdroom" or an aviary. Noise level between 1 - 10: Cockatoos DO SCREAM do not be fooled by them when they are young below 2 years old they are still babies and don't find their voice straight away but they are prone to screaming and calling they do this in the wild to call their flock and re group they also do this to warn others of danger so why should they be any different in your home environment.

The biggest lesson us as the carers need to realise this is their natural behaviour BUT it should not be a constant thing is usually happens for 30 to 60 minutes in the morning and again around tea time and then before dusk. But as a rating 1 - 10 we are giving the cockatoos a 9. Breeding Seasons: The cockatoo breeding season begins in winter through to spring. Maturity age is between three to eight years old. The female cockatoo will lay between 2 to 3 eggs. Be warned cockatoos can and will be very aggressive and vocal during these months. Prone illnesses: Some of the common illnesses your cockatoo could contract are parasites, intestinal inflammation, PDD, coccidiosis, respiratory ailments, feather picking, and parrot fever also known as psittacosis which is not common but is contagious to humans and can be dangerous. Psittacine beak and feather disease (Circovirus infection or PBFD) is a problem that is frequently encountered in the white cockatoo species. Due to its highly contagious nature to other parrot species, it is advisable to avoid any bird suspected of having this condition.

Cockatoos also are prone to plucking and in a lot of cases mutilation as they are so sensitive and complex this is all to common. Types of Cockatoo: The Galah (Australian Rose-breasted Cockatoo) FAQ The Galah (Australian Rose-breasted Cockatoo) FAQ Written by Graham W Wöbcke Note: This article is not yet finalised and I hope to expand the FAQ again soon. I will answer any questions posted in the comments section as soon as I am available to. I decided to compile a Galah FAQ in the hope that it can help out people who are interested in keeping one of these parrots as a pet. My personal disclaimer: I am not a bird expert or an avarian doctor, just an enthusiast and active pet keeper. Galah FAQ What Other Names Are Galahs Also Known As? The Galah is also known as a: Rose-breasted Cockatoo Eolophus Roseicapilla - the birds scientific name How Old Can A Galah Live For? In the wild a Galah will rarely live past 25 years, but in captivity, if well looked after a galah can live for 50 to 60 years..

so you will have a friend for life. How Can You Tell The Sex Difference Of A Galah? The easiest way to tell the sex difference of a Galah is to look at the eyes. The males have a more dark, almost brown iris (area of the eye that surrounds the pupil) while the females have a lighter, pink iris. Other characteristics that can help you determine sex is that males seem to have a better ability to talk and females tend to sit on a perch with there legs apart more frequently than males. How Can I Tell How Old My Galah Is? Determining age is a little more difficult, but you can get an idea by again examining the eyes. The number of wrinkles around the eye (in the white area) is one way of aging a bird. Other ways include the number of layers on the beak and by looking at the feet. Generally, the more wrinkles around the eye, the older the bird. How Many Types/Species Of Galah Are There? There are to my knowledge three major sub-species of Galah - Western, Eastern and Northern. The most popular variety in captivity seems to be the Eastern variety. What Sounds Does A Galah Make And Can They Talk?

Galahs make a fairly high pitched "Chet Chet" type sound when flying around in the wild. They will also make a much louder screech when threatened, fighting or having fun. Galahs are very clever and can learn to talk, or rather, imitate people's voices. The male galahs seem to be much better at this than the females. Galahs are also very good at impersonating everyday sounds such as a whistle, a horn or a telephone ringing. Is It Normal For My Galah To Make Grinding And Sneezing Sounds? Galahs will grind their beak when they feel safe and relaxed, usually before they sleep. When a Galah goes to sleep, they will quite often turn their heads 180 degrees around and rest their head on their back feathers. A heathly Galah will require around 10 hours sleep a night. A Galah will also sneeze when preening there feathers as a way to disperse the dust they have collected from their feathers so this is perfectly normal. Should I Give My Galah A Bath? Galahs are quite cutious when it comes to water so I don't really advise giving a bird a bath.

A much better method is to either use a water bottle with a squirter nozzle and give them a misty spray so they fluff out or as my bird loves, being held in front of a air conditioner or enclosed fan for about 30 seconds to blow off the excessive dust. How can I stop my Galah from screeching in the mornings? It is a natural behaviour for a bird to make noises when the sun rises, so the best method to controlling loud morning behavior is to cover the birds cage (using perhaps a large, inexpensive table cloth or similar) and if possible, move the birds cage away from windows or areas where the bird can see the day's first light or hear the sounds of other wild birds outside. You could also consider darker window covers/curtains if moving the cage is not an option. My Galah Chews Everything - What Can I Do? Galahs chewing objects is a natural method of keeping their beaks in top condition. It prevents overgrowing and discomfort if the beak is not regularly used. Make sure their enclosure has some inedible objects to chew to keep them occupied.

Try wooden perches, rope perches, plastic chain, old belts (buckle removed), old shoe soles and thongs. Why does my Galah chew it's feathers? I would firstly check the bird does not have mites - inspect under the wing feathers and if you see any tiny red mites, you will need a mite spray. If mites are not present, sometimes Galahs become bored with their environment and find the practice of feather chewing a 'fun' thing to do. Consider adding in some new play items in the cage that the Galah can chew and destroy with their beak like wooden toys (not painted) and hard plastic toys. I have heard of other bird keepers having lots of luck letting their birds play with cottom mop heads, and my Galah likes to chew on a rubber ball meant for large dogs. There are other reasons a bird pulls it's feathers out too, including lack of sunlight, poor diet, loneliness and some other frustrations. If you are not already, consider giving the bird a regular spray with COLD water and Apple Cider Vinegar - 2 teaspoons per cup of water - with a hand sprayer.

Do not spray on exposed skin or near the birds eyes, so some care is needed here. Another holistic approach is to mix some "Red Palm Oil" (please make sure it is CSPO - Certified Sustainable Palm Oil) or "Coconut Oil" in the birds seeds - about 1/4 of a teaspoon per bowl. If you think sunlight is the issue, consider moving the location of the cage so the bird gets at least 2-4 hours of sunlight on average, every day. I've just found a baby bird - it must of fell out of the tree. What do I do? Sometimes birds fall from the nest, either from inexperience, from sibling rivalry, or from the parents rejecting the bird due to sickness or other reasons we will never understand. Check the bird firstly for any obvious injuries like broken wings and legs, missing eyes or any cuts and bleeding. Don't try to fix the birds injuires yourself, it's best a professional looks at the bird, but if it is bleeding, you can apply cornstarch or flour directly to the wound and take the bird to a vet or bird expert as soon as you can. Try to keep the bird warm and see if it will drink water from a teaspoon.

You can also try feeding it a few berries or a piece of arrowroot biscuit to see if it feeds. If the bird you have found has no visible injuries, you should still consider taking the bird to a bird expert or vet for a checkup to make sure there are no issues or illness. Pay attention to how often the bird poops, and if its clear and watery or if it's more white and paint/glue like. Record if the bird makes any noises that sound distressed. This information is useful to the bird expert. My bird has a really bad attitude and will bite me constantly. How do I stop that? Sometimes birds are testing their place in the hierarchy and are seeing if they can become the leader of the flock. The best thing to do each time a bird attempts to bite you is to move your hand that is holding them, so they then need to concentrate on balancing and forget the biting. With my own bird, the feathers around it's eye region tend to stand up before an aggressive action is performed, or it attempts to hold you with it's strongest leg, so you may get some visual signs too that will pre-warn you before the action occurs.

If the bird does manage to bite you, and yes it does hurt, please don't hit or be aggressive to the bird. Do your best to not react in a painful way to the bite - because no reaction means no fun for the bird. Now tell the bird in a firm voice that it was bad and it's going back onto it's perch. Put the bird back on it's perch and each time it attempts to return to you, return it to the perch. Then after a period of time, reward the bird for staying on it's perch and then return it to it's cage or house. It will take some time to break bad habits. One thing to remember, NEVER let a bird climb onto your shoulder as this is the position of dominance and if the bird does reach there, in it's mind it's dominating you. My Galah Pinkie Tomato Leaves and Stem - the FRUIT is ok Rhubarb Leaves - the Stalks are ok in Moderation Dried and Raw Beans - COOKED Beans are ok in Moderation Any food that has spoiled or has mold or is a fungus (Mushrooms) The list above is far from exhaustive.

If you are interested in reading more on this subject, I can highly recommend reading this page on the The Caique Site - a site dedicated to the Caique species of Parrot - but this information is appropriate for all parrot species. Why can you ony give a treat the size of a rounded teaspoon? It's important to remember that a Galahs crop is about the capacity of a rounded (not heaped) teaspoon, so it is a good idea to never feed them more than this amount when offering treats. How often do Galahs eat during the day? Galahs will generally graze during the day and eat small amounts whenever they feel the need. I have noticed that my bird will eat a little more frequently in the morning compared to the rest of the day. My bird already eats chocolate/other bad food and likes it a lot and they seem ok.. Being a responsible owner, you would never feed your bird the foods listed as potentially lethal from bird experts. I would suspect the bird is vomitting or having other issues at night or when you are not watching. No one wants to wake up and see a bird on the bottom of the cage, so please don't continue to do this.

Why do green beans have to be cooked? What about snow peas? Uncooked beans and legumes (including snow peas) contain lectin and phytic acid which when consumed by birds can give adverse affects such as vomiting and diarrhea. I personally would not risk giving these to my bird raw. I have read that sugar snap peas are fine for birds to eat raw as long as they don't consume the pea pods but I have not attempted to feed these to my own bird. My Galah Pinkie Cockatoo Care, Bird Care and Information for All Types of Cockatoos Bird Care and Information for All Types of Cockatoos Family: Cacatuidae Umbrella CockatooCacatua albaPhoto © Animal-World: Courtesy David Brough Cockatoos are extremely affectionate, their feathers are very soft and they have beautiful colors! Bird Care and Bird Information - Cockatoos Birds for Sale On top of that, Cockatoos are very intelligent and inquisitive birds, and they love to show off! A Cockatoo will make comical displays with outspread wings, head bobbing, dancing, and loud calls. These birds are very active and curious about their environment.

A happy cockatoo spends most of its waking time performing, or examining and manipulating its toys and other cage objects. Because of their loving quailties and intelligence, Cockatoos have a very high need for attention, affection, and interaction. A single cockatoo will thrive as your pet only if you devote time and attention to it. You will need to spend a good deal of time playing with it and sharing affections on a regular daily basis. However, two pet cockatoos can be ideal if you are not able to devote so much time and attention as the bird will demand. Bored cockatoos are notorious for developing bad habits such as screeching and feather plucking. Having two will help to prevent bad habits from developing by a bored bird. See these types of cockatoos in the Cockatoo Family Advertise With Us Distribution: The cockatoos natural habitats are found over large areas of Australia and Indonesia. Cockatoos in the wild are found in three very distinct ranges. They are found in the tropical rainforests which are wet with high temperatures, on the grassy plains, and on the dry savannahs.

Description: The term "cockatoo" is a Malaysian word thought to have possibly two meanings, "pincher" or "old father". The term 'pincher' is definitely descriptive as the cockatoos have extremely powerful beaks. A cockatoo can take apart or demolish a wooden toy in no time! These birds both look and behave differently than any of the other parrots, and are some of the longest lived. Cockatoo Facts: These birds both look and behave differently than any of the other parrots, and are some of the longest lived. Description: Cockatoos mostly have a single color plumage, either white or dark. They have "erectile crests", which is a mobile crest of feathers. Their beaks are enormously powerful and they can easily demolish objects. Age and Life Span: It is difficult to determine the age of a cockatoo, however young cockatoos will have a beak that is smooth and pale and their plumage will be paler, while an older bird's beak will be darker and have striations and their plumage will have a fuller coloration.

Cockatoos are thought to be the longest lived of all parrots with examples cited of the Greater Sulphur-Crested Cockatoo having lived over 100 years. Sex Differences: On most species of Cockatoo, the eye iris of the female will become red to red-brown after about two years. This helps to determine the sex of the bird. However the eye coloration is not so pronounced on some species. On these birds, the sex must be determined by either a surgical probe, endoscopy, or by a DNA testing. Endoscopy can be done by many veterinarians. DNA testing is done usually with a blood sample or a few plucked feathers that are sent to be diagnosed in a lab. Types of Cockatoos: There are 18 species of cockatoo (including the well-know cockatiel) and 37 sub-species, of these only a handful became well known due to importation restrictions.

Frequently kept types of cockatoos include: Umbrella Cockatoo Cacatua alba, also known as the Umbrella-crested, White-crested, or Greater White-crested Cockatoo Citron-crested Cockatoo Cacatua sulphurea citrinocristata Greater Sulpher-crested Cockatoo Cacatua galerita galerita, also know as the Sulpher-crested Cockatoo Triton Cockatoo Cacatua galerita triton Bare-eyed Cockatoo Cacatua sanguinea, also known as Little Corella Cockatoo Rose-Breasted Cockatoo Cacatua roseicapilla, also known as the Roseate Cockatoo or the Galah Cockatoo Philippine Cockatoo Cacatua haematuropygia, also know as the Red-Vented Cockatoo Goliath Palm Cockatoo Probosciger aterrimus goliath, also know as the Palm Cockatoo or the Goliath Cockatoo <map name="boxmap-p8Map" id="boxmap-p8Map"><area shape="rect" coords="14, 200, 10

3, 207" href=""/><area coords="0,0,10000,10000" href=""/></map><img src="" width="120" height="240" border="0" usemap="#boxmap-p8Map" alt="Shop at Amazon.com"/> Care and feeding: Bird Food: A Cockatoo diet consisting of a basic large hookbill seed mix with supplements of sprouted seeds and all sorts of fruits and vegetables is generally regarded as suitable.

Some examples of supplements are apples, pears, plums, raisons, oranges, bananas, peaches, carrots, broccoli, lettuce, chickweed, dandelions, and lots more! Do not feed avocado as it is toxic to birds! Occasional proteins can be offered such as cottage cheese, bits of cheese, hard boiled eggs, canned dog food, and cooked meat bones. Stay away from highly seasoned, fatty processed meats. Vitamins and minerals should not be necessary with a good varied diet except in times of change or stress. If your cockatoo has a tendency to destroy calcium blocks, as an alternative, calcium can be sprinkled on their food about once a week. Water: Give you cockatoo fresh drinking water every day. Bird Baths: Most cockatoos really do not need to be washed any more than a cat would. This is because they are extremely clean by nature and preen themselves regularly. They naturally produce a great deal of dust which aids in keeping their wings and skin healthy. However, a cockatoo's personal hygiene may include a weekly shower or bath to get rid of accumulated feather dust.

For the bird, bathing is strictly an individual preference, as in the wild some cockatoos will enjoy standing in the rain while others will dive for cover. Bathing a cockatoo in anything other than plain water can change the pH of its feathers and may lead to troubles such as infections, or parasitic infestations like mites. A shower can be accomplished with either a hand held shower sprayer or a hose with a fine spray head and lukewarm water. A bath pan or ceramic dish 12"-14" (30-35 cm) can be placed on the bottom of the cage or mounted at about 39" (1m) above the floor in an aviary. Bird Grooming: If cockatoos are not partnered with another bird, they will need assistance from their owners to preen. Scratch lightly in the direction of the feathers on the top of the heads, the neck area, and other areas they can't reach. This will help remove the clear feather sheaths from new feathers, as these can get itchy and uncomfortable. The wings should be kept trim if you want to discourage flight and to prevent the loss of your pet through an open window or door.

The beak and claws need to be trimmed if they are not worn down from climbing and chewing. A variety of concrete type perches are available to help the keep nails trim, but they should still be trimmed if they become overgrown. Because cockatoos will demolish mineral blocks, lava blocks, and other beak grooming items in a matter of a few minutes, they won't work to keep beaks trim. You can find bird seed, bird cages, and everything you need for your pet here: Bird Supplies Housing: Bird Cages: For cockatoos, the larger the enclosure you can provide, the better. The ideal size of any bird cage should be equal to at least 3 flight wingspans of the bird. Anything smaller is detrimental to the bird unless it has freedom outside the cage. A minimum size cage to house a small cockatoo is 27" x 27 " x 39" (70x70x100 cm), which should then be accompanied with regularly outside time for the bird to exercise. For larger cockatoos a larger cage must be considered. Horizontal bars are important as your cockatoo needs to climb.

Keep in mind that because of the strength of their beaks, cockatoos are able to bend bars and pop the joints on cages. For additional security on the cage door, a snap lock is recommended. Bird Perch: Provide one or two perches about 3/4' in diameter and dishes hanging from the side for feed, water, and grit. Try to place the perches away from dishes so the food and water dish do not become soiled with bird droppings. Do not use plastic because your bird will chew and break the plastic and it can become hazardous. Where to Place Bird Cages: Your cockatoo is very social and inquisitive, so the room you house your pet in must be a room that gets visited frequently by the family. Place the cage at eye level in a quiet sunny area away from drafts. Aviary: Indoor Aviaries: For a small cockatoo the minimum size of a suitable indoor aviary is about 39" x 39" x 78" (100x100x200 cm), and of course larger for the larger cockatoos.

Outdoor Aviaries: An outdoor or breeding aviary needs to have a protected shelter that can be heated and cooled where necessary and have a sand floor. An attached flight cage should be 78" x 117" x 78" (2x3x2 m) for small cockatoos, and of course bigger for larger cockatoos. One third of the flight cage should be covered. Equip the flight cage with a perch at each end. A climbing branch and a bird bath are nice additions too. Maintenance: The basic cage care includes daily cleaning of the water and food dishes and wiping off the feather dust from the bars and perches. Twice weekly change the bottom trays and replace the soiled litter. Weekly you should wash all the perches and dirty toys and monthly you should clean the entire cage. A total hosing down and disinfecting of an aviary and flight should be done twice a year, replacing anything that needs to be freshened, such as old dishes, toys, perches, and the sand on the floor. Social Behaviors: In the wild, all cockatoo species live together in flocks.

Some species may flock in groups of only 8-10 birds while others species will flock in the thousands. This high socialization need has a profound affect on cockatoo behavior. If they don't get the necessary attention and interaction they can quickly become bored. A bored cockatoo will often develop bad habits like screaming and feather plucking, and these habits are extremely difficult to break. Here are some guidelines to provide the best environment and promote good cockatoo behavior: Keeping Single Cockatoo: Intelligent and highly inquisitive, coupled with a great need for companionship, shapes the cockatoo behavior. Cockatoos are constantly active and always up for playing and interacting with a friend. Keeping a single cockatoo will take serious commitment of time and attention from you for your pet to thrive. Each day you will need to spend a good deal of time playing with your cockatoo and sharing affections. Keeping a Pair of Cockatoos: Because of their need to socialize, cockatoos are generally best kept in pairs. They also do fine with another bird of similar size for companionship. The main reason for pairing is so that they do not become so dependent on their keeper and their keepers time.

The drawback to keeping a pair is that the noise will be much greater. Cockatoos love to play and will keep it up all day, but part of their play includes loud calls, which in some cases can turn into long earsplitting shrieks. Cockatoos and Pets: Cockatoos and other pets, such as dogs and cats, may or may not develop a friendly relationship with each other. This is generally a "wait and see" situation. Other small animals such as rodents and small birds are best kept away from a cockatoo. If they fall prey to the cockatoo's beak, it can be fatal. Cockatoos and Children: Never leave cockatoos unattended with babies or small children! Cockatoos can get very jealous of babies and small children. The child could get attacked by the cockatoo's beak or sharp claws so you should always be on your guard. Cockatoos and older children will often do fine, but even here it's a "wait and see" situation. You won't know for sure how they will get along until the relationship unfolds over time Handling/Training: The cockatoo is highly intelligent but they are not know as great talkers.

Their ability to repeat some words or sounds can be accomplished with repeated training, but this is not the cockatoo's strength. Their outstanding ability comes from being great performers! This is demonstrated by such antics as dancing, playing tug-of-war, climbing, and shaking. Cockatoos will use "tools", various objects and toys to play and perform with, such as roller skating. They are very inventive and if toys are not provided they will use what is at hand. Objects 'at hand' often take the form of their food dishes and perches. Taming Basics: To be able to handle and train your cockatoo depends first on trust, so go slowly and be consistent. Taming and training is best done in a room with few distractions. A hand fed baby will not need much taming and can often be handled right away, as it is use to human attention. Initial Training: Taming proceeds in steps, start with cage taming where you can approach your cockatoo's cage without it jumping off it's perch and heading to an opposite corner. You overcome this by talking to your pet with soothing words and slow gentle movements until it gets accustomed to you.

Next is hand taming, where your cockatoo will climb on your hand and allow you to carry it around. You can accomplish this by offering it treats from outside the cage until it is comfortable with your hand. As your cockatoo becomes comfortable with taking treats from your hand, you then open the cage door and repeat the same process but now you are reaching into it's cage with the treat. Once you've earned it's trust, your cockatoo will begin climbing on your hand and allowing you to pet him. Advanced Training: Other training, such as tricks and imitating speech will take patience and repeated efforts. For an extensive parrot training system that potentially turns your bird into a fun, loving companion as well as learning lots of cool tricks, try Chet Womach's Parrot Training Course . Remember that taming and training a bird takes patience, never 'punish' your pet! This only serves to destroy the trust you've spent so much time building. Activities: Exercise and play are important bird activities for the physical well being and psychological health of all cockatoos. They are extraordinarily playful. Cockatoos will play all day long with only short breaks for rest.

Getting out of the cage onto a playpen with lots of climbing branches is very important for the emotional well being of your pet. These activities help deter distress and prevent the problems of screeching and feather picking. Provide your parrot with lots of activities in the form of large link chains, bird ladders, parrot swings, ropes, fresh branches for gnawing and chewing, and rotate new bird toys on a regular basis. When a new toy is introduced, your cockatoo will approach it warily.The bird will examine with caution and observe it from all sides. Once it has done this, it will accept and play with it for hours. Cockatoos that have flight feathers will fly if they out of their cage. If you have a flight aviary, your cockatoo will love to fly between perches widely spaced apart. A cockatoo that is clipped cannot fly so it cannot use a flight aviary. It will take about a year for its feathers to grow back. Breeding/Reproduction: Because the cockatoos are threatened with extinction, successful breeding is helping to preserve the species and reduce the number of wild caught birds.

There are no breeding regulations in the United States, Canada, or the United Kingdom, though other countries might have restrictions and you should consult with the authorities in your country before undertaking breeding. Breeding cockatoos can be difficult and it is in not recommended for a beginner. The best success in breeding cockatoos in captivity started with the greater sulphur-crested, lesser sulphur-crested, and the rose-breasted cockatoos, though several others are now also being breed successfully. Some basics for breeding cockatoos include: Pairing Cockatoos: Pet cockatoos have a very difficult time getting used to a mate so are very hard to use for attempts at breeding. Establishing any harmonious cockatoo pair can be difficult. It is best to have several young birds together and let them pair naturally. Sexing Cockatoos: Most cockatoo species are easily sexed. The lesser sulphur-crested, greater sulphur-crested, umbrella, Goffin's, rose-breasted and Philippine cockatoos have a red-brown, brown, or chestnut-brown iris in the female after about two years of age.

The Mollucan is basically the same except the female iris is dark brown so it can be difficult to distinguish from the slightly darker iris of the male. Both sexes of the bare-eyed cockatoo have the dark iris, but the male is a larger bird and the female has more feathering around the eye than the male. Sometimes with the Bare-eyed and the Mollucan you can only be certain if you have them sexed by either a surgical probe, endoscopy, a DNA test, or a chromosonal analysis. Breeding Environment: The best environment for breeding cockatoos is accomplished in an aviary. Place the cockatoo's square nesting box, or a round hollowed out tree trunk of the same approximate size, high in the aviary. On the bottom of the nest box, put a 4" (10 cm) layer of soft bedding such as wood shavings. The nesting box for a small cockatoo should be 10"-12" (25-30 cm) wide x 23"-31" (60-80 cm) high, with a hole size of 4" (10-12 cm).

For a medium cockatoo it should be 12"-14" (30-35 cm) wide x 31"-39" (80-100 cm) high, with a hole size of 4"-5" (10-12 cm). For the larger cockatoos it should be 14"-18" (35-45 cm) wide x 47"-59" (120-150 cm) high with a hole size of 5"-6" (12-15 cm). Egg Laying and Hatchlings: The cockatoo female will lay between 2 to 3 eggs. Brooding, depending on which species, is between 25 to 30 days. The young are naked and blind when hatched and don't open their eyes for several weeks. Hatchlings take between 60 and 100 days to become fully plumed and at that time they will begin to explore outside of the nest. However they will still be dependent for another two to three weeks before ready leave the nest for good. Potential Problems: A cockatoo that is well cared for will seldom become ill.

Though it is often difficult to determine illness, some visible signs of illness can be plumage that is lusterless, ruffled, or has bare spots. Other signs may be having no appetite, sneezing, discharge from the nostrils, slit eyes instead of round, the bird sleeps a lot resting on both feet instead of having one foot tucked up, develops movements of neurotic screaming, begins feather plucking, and any change in the feces. Some of the common illnesses your cockatoo could contract are parasites, intestinal inflammation, coccidiosis, respiratory ailments, feather picking, and parrot fever also known as psittacosis which is not common but is contagious to humans and can be dangerous. Isolate the bird in a hospital cage with an infrared lamp placed about 23" (60 cm) distance from the cage. If it does not perk within 24 hours, the ailing parrot should be taken to a avian veterinarian for diagnosis and treatment. Behavior problems usually stem from something missing in the bird's environment. Cockatoos are particularly vulnerable to feather plucking because of their intense need for socialization.

Boredom, lack of trust, lack of interaction with other birds or people can lead to problems like biting, feather plucking, and screaming. Try to develop a bond of trust and spend time with your bird to help avoid these problems. We have also had good success with Chet Womach's Parrot Training Course . He offers free 3-day introductory course so you can try it out before you buy anything. Availability: Several cockatoo species are readily available in the pet industry. You should be able to find cockatoos for sale from a pet store. You can also find cockatoos for sale from bird breeders, bird farms, and often on-line. There are many hand fed babies becoming increasingly available. Cockatoos are among those birds that are endangered or threatened with extinction. There is an export ban on all birds from Australia, so young birds available for public sale in the United States today are captive bred birds. Author: Clarice Brough, CAS Australia Zoo - Birds Birds Shop Now » (Cacatua galerita) The Sulphur-crested Cockatoo is probably Australia's best known parrot.

These birds are often kept as pets, as they are extremely intelligent and are very good at learning to talk. Be warned though - they can be very loud, mischievous and live for more than 70 years! If you don't have the time to spend with these wonderful birds, they are not the pet for you. Habitat Widely distributed through most types of open timbered country throughout northern, eastern and southwestern mainland. Diet Mid-morning the cockatoos usually feed on seeds on the ground, then during the hottest part of the day they sit in trees near the feeding area, stripping the leaves and bark. In the afternoon they feed again and then fly back to their roosting trees for the night. Each day they return to feed in the same area until the food supply is exhausted. They eat the seeds of grasses and herbaceous plants, grains, bulbous roots, berries, nuts and leaf buds. Breeding Sulphur-crested Cockatoos nest in hollow limbs or holes high up in Eucalypts near water.

They breed between August and January in the South and March to September in the North Display Status Our Amazing Sulphur-crested-cockatoo(s) are currently off display Sulphur Crested Cockatoo Profiles Sex: Male G'day everyone. Anthony is a very social young 'man' and loves nothing more than to stop and have a chat. Being as charming as he is, a crowd soon converges. After saying 'Hello' to everyone he then often inquires as to their names. If the response comes back with any hint of a foreign accent, it is not unusual for Anthony to reply, 'What ya talking about?' He is very cheeky and seems to have the knack for looking directly at the biggest, burliest bloke before saying, 'Hello little girl'. As the crowd (with the exception of the big, burly bloke) laughs, you guessed it; Anthony laughs right along with them. Time to move on. As the crowd bid Anthony farewell, he waves and says, 'See ya later'.

Joey Age: 17 Years (DOB 30/11/1999) Sex: Male Joey is one of our gorgeous Sulphur-Crested Cockatoos who just loves to go for walks around the Zoo meeting guests. Joey is very polite and loves to say 'hello' to everyone, even though he is not as talkative as some of the other Sulphur-Crested Cockatoos at Australia Zoo. Joey much prefers to cuddle up to his handler while he is out on his walks. He loves to be scratched around the head and to have his feathers ruffled so that he can clean them up again. He really is a big softy! Joey's favourite thing to do at the moment is to play peek-a-boo with guests. Joey, hides his head under his wing and thinks that if he can't see anyone, then no one can see him! So next time you're here at the Zoo, see if you can find Joey out and about and see if he'll say hi! Or maybe there'll be a game of hide and seek waiting to be played.

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Question: Galah and Sulphur-crested are species of what kind of bird?
Answer: COCKATOO