How To Sharpen And Maintain Your Cut Throat Razor. | Murdock How To Sharpen And Maintain Your Cut Throat Razor. James Uden Shaving Cut throat razors are the real McCoy when it comes to shaving. With a single blade, a cut throat causes skin less irritation while also cutting sharper. This is because you are essentially cutting hair off your face with a knife - and as with any piece of cutlery, if it's rusty or blunt, it's practically useless. In order to craft a blade like ours that is ‘shave-ready’, it is first hot-forged from a piece of carbon steel. This is then hardened by heat treatment so that it will hold its edge. The blade then goes through a number of different machine and hand-grinding processes. At this point the different sides are added. The now complete razor is then hand-stropped in order to create the final sharp edge of the blade. A cut throat needs to be routinely cared for so that it will in turn take best care of your facial hair. So here are a few expert tips on how to keep your traditional razor in top condition at home. How do I look after my straight razor?

Once you have shaved with your razor, a light stropping on a proper leather strop will help to maintain it for many years of satisfying use. Straight razors must be properly cared for in order to ensure their performance longevity. While razors made of stainless steel are less demanding on this front, other types of razors have to be rinsed with clear water and thoroughly dried after each use to avoid rusting and stains on the blade. Remember not to store your razor in a damp and unaired state to minimise the chance of natural wear. When not in use for lengthy periods of time, it is also recommended that a razor be rubbed with a light oil to similarly avoid wear on the pivot mechanism. Murdock London Cut Throat Razor & Strop Why use a strop with my cut throat razor? After several shaves, your razor's cutting edge will become slightly more aligned with the head, which causes bluntness. If you use a strop correctly and treat your blade well, you will only need to hone once every month or even per year. Stropping serves to polish the edge of the blade and to re-align it at the correct angle for sharp, effective shaving.

Method of stropping: (Please read this information very carefully, in order to avoid any damage, either to your fingers or your strop.) Hang your strop on a hook and pull it towards you, with the leather side up. Now lay the fully opened razor flat. You should hold the razor at the part between the blade and the handle, just using your fingertips. This enables you to easily turn the razor when stropping. The blade must be laid flat on the strop, so that the cutting edge and the back both make contact. When using the strop, always move the razor towards the back of the blade, NOT towards the cutting edge, or else you will cut the strop to pieces. Pull the blade gently towards you. The blade should stand at approx. 30-40 degrees to the strop. Do not use too much pressure or else the blade will bend, which will alter the sharpening angle. When you reach the end of the belt, roll the blade over the back of the razor and push it back towards the hook. Remember to keep the blade flat on the strop. This sharpens the other side of the blade. Repeat this 4-5 times, and your razor should be ready for work again.

It's important to remember that during the whole sharpening-process the back of the blade should never leave the belt. At the end of the belt, do not take the blade off, but simply roll it over. Extra Tips: Strop only before shaving. If you strop your razor immediately after shaving, any loose metal parts can break off and penetrate the leather, effectively turning it into sandpaper. If you honed your blade just before stropping, clean it with water and soap and dry with a cloth without touching the edge; this too is to prevent small metal parts getting stuck into the strop, which can cause future damage. Always pull the belt tight, never let it bend. The movement of the blade should always direct towards the back, never towards the cutting-edge. Always work slowly and concentrated, mistakes can be expensive! The 10 Best Straight/Cut Throat Razors – Accept No Junk - Luxury Shaves The 10 Best Straight/Cut Throat Razors – Accept No Junk Straight Razors Straight razors are having a resurgence lately and you might be considering jumping on board. If you’re not one hundred percent sure what exactly a straight razor is, let this introduction be your guide.

You can learn further down the page what the best straight razors are. You might also have heard of them called open razors or cut throat razors. This refers to the way the blade has no protection, and is “open” to your skin. For a very long time, these were the only means known to man, and a visit to the local barbers would often incorporate a shave. The blades are NOT disposable, but rather need stropping and sometimes honing. Even though they declined and were eventually replaced by safety razors (thanks to King C. Gillette ), and then cartridge razors, they are still being manufactured. You can find companies in Europe (mostly Solingen, Germany but also France and United Kingdom), Asia (mostly Japan), and North America. There’s also a big antique razor market. Our Top Straight Razor Pick: Dovo Classic Out of all the straight razors on this page, our favorite is the Dovo Classic . It provides a very close shave, is high quality, will last a lifetime, and is excellent for beginners. It's a truly 5-star blade. View More Straight Razor Quality Buying anything but the best straight razors is madness. The right razor is a very important thing.

You might not want to read that and might be hoping that the cheap brands you’ve come across on Amazon or elsewhere are worth buying. You’d be wrong. When you are using a piece of steel that is supposed to last you a very long time (perhaps even forever), you want to make sure it is top quality. There are many knock-off, cheap, or even junk razors out there marketed as top quality cut throat razors, but most of them are not worth your time. Anything under $50 is definitely going to be more trouble than it’s worth. The best steel is often cited as being from Solingen, Germany, or Sheffield, United Kingdom. Sheffield Steel is known as a hallmark worldwide. What Do You Actually Need? This video should really help you figure out what you actually need when it comes to buying a straight razor. Further down the page we’ve got a list of some of the best. Parts Of Straight Razors It’s important to be aware of the various parts of a straight razor. You’re not going to need to know them and select them, but understanding how intricately they are put together will help you know why to avoid buying badly crafted blades.

Pivot This is the “pin” that the narrow end of the blade rotates on. If this is badly put together, the blade could slip mid-shave. As you can imagine, this isn’t going to end well for your face. Scales (Handle) This is the part that you hold and is often badly made in cheaper models. It’s easy for the scales to crack, so even though some of them are very nicely decorated, you want to avoid something that feels lacking in quality. That said, even the popular brands like Dovo sometimes have plastic handles, so it doesn’t have to be particularly weighty in order to be a sign of quality. Other Parts You might also see references to things like the shank, the tang, the stabiliser, or the heel. These are more important for hobbyists or those who want to do repair work. I wouldn’t worry too much about the details of these right now. Construction Straight razors are made from a process of forging, hardening (tempering), grinding, and then finishing. They’re not something that can be readily mass-produced, although the bigger manufacturers still do manage to produce a large amount every year.

I’m telling you this because if you find a blade on Amazon for $25, you should ask yourself what kind of quality compromises were made. This is an artisan craft with a lot of steps, so you really ought to be prepared to pay a higher price. Blade Width There are lots of different widths of blade. The most common/preferred and best for beginners is the 6/8 inch. You can also find some 5/8 blades that will be fine for you to use. If a blade is not at one of these angles, it’s much more likely that you’ll end up cutting yourself. Check the image below. Choosing Your Razor There really are a lot of razors to choose from though, and many of them are more than acceptable, so it is difficult for me to list them all. Instead, I’ll list my “top three” brands, and then give you some more information at the bottom of the page to help you identify whether a brand you come across is good or not. Picture Best Cut Throat Razors My top three brands are Dovo, Fromm, and Giesen & Forsthoff. This is based on personal opinion and experience/research, so it is not conclusive.

I’ll explain below why they make it into my top three. Dovo I would be surprised if they didn’t make it into every top three lists, because they are the Apple of straight razors. The most well known, the easiest to get hold of, great quality and great value. Dovo are manufactured in surprisingly high numbers given the decreased popularity of this type of razor, which shows how high their demand is within the reduced market. What’s more, they are great for beginners and veterans alike, with a wide range of blades available. Read My Dovo Review Fromm There are a lot of good things said about Fromm across the Internet. While the more experienced straight razor users among us might feel they are not the best quality, there are many who use them daily without issue. I would agree they are definitely more of an “entry-level” razor or a backup razor for when your top quality one needs maintenance, but that is part of the appeal. If you want a razor which is affordable, yet still provides a very good shave and stays sharp, Fromm is most likely for you.

Read My Fromm Review Giesen & Forsthoff If you would prefer to go for something higher quality than Fromm, but still in the affordable price range, this is your top choice. G & F blades are a lot cheaper than Dovo, but are not too far behind in quality. The company has a long history of producing good quality blades . Boker Boker also make great razors that offer value for money. They are not as cheap as Fromm, but they are very high quality steel blades. I’ve written a review here , or you can check them out on Amazon . Other Notable Brands Kamisori Straight Razor Review Selection Criteria I assumed when making this post that a lot of people searching for this topic would be beginners looking to buy their first blade. Therefore, when I selected my three recommendations, I based them on a criteria of affordability, quality, availability, and ease of use/maintenance. If you wanted to search for something more “executive” or higher end, then you would be able to find them, and others might not agree with my list either. I stand by my selections though. None of the three brands mentioned above will be a bad purchase by any means, and that is what matters the most.

If you find another brand that you are unsure of, ask yourself the following questions: How does the price compare with other blades? If it is significantly cheaper, something is probably wrong. Are there many reviews/mentions of it online? If you can’t find information about it here, something is probably wrong! Is the source trustworthy? This part should be self explanatory. If you can, inspect the steel/blade and the handles/hinges. If something looks cheap or poorly made, don’t buy it. You don’t want “cut throat” to become a literal name because you’ve shredded your skin to pieces due to a faulty razor. Why Use A Straight? Maintenance And Honing Despite what a lot of people say, a straight razor that is freshly bought does NOT need to be sent off to a professional honer. I had this information directly from Dovo themselves . Their suggestion is that a user “wears-in” a straight razor, slowly stropping it every couple of days. As you grow in skill, you will also get better at sharpening your blade. It’s also a good idea to let the blade “sit” and only shave every 48 hours.

In other words, get a razor, get a strop, and then learn how to use them together. You are always welcome to post a comment below to add your own best cut throat razors, or ask questions about other brands. Straight Razor Tips - Knifecenter.com - Knife Center Knife Care Tips Razor Sharpening And Using Tips The KnifeCenter is constantly looking for more information to convey to you, and information about razors and stropping has been hard to find. DOVO, the largest manufacturer of straight razors in the world publishes the following information. Please keep in mind that the writers of the materials on this page are european and the English used may be a little hard to understand. We reprint it for you while accepting no responsibility for any injury resulting from these instructions. All razors and knives are sold to be used at the buyer's own risk. How do I look after the straight razor? The straight razor must be properly looked after in order to ensure the maintenance and long life of this traditional men's accessory. While straight razors made of stainless steel are less demanding, other razors have to be rinsed with clear water and thoroughly dried after each use.

When not in use for longer periods, it is recommended that the razor be rubbed with light oil. Likewise, the razor should not be stored in a damp and unaired state. There is no generally valid rule for the whetting (stropping) of straight razors; in many cases, it is sufficient to draw the razor lightly over the ball of the thumb, especially when it has been left unused for several days between shaves. Wet shavers of the old school know that the facet (blade) "grows", i.e. the microscopically discernible and extremely fine "fin" on the cutting edge changes during the shave but returns to its old position afterwards; it stretches and again becomes extremely fine. Nevertheless, this fine "fin" will still wear away at some stage and a suitable strop should then be bought. There is no common rule for sharpening of razors; sometimes it is sufficient to sharpen it at the ball of the thumb, especially if the razor is not used for several days.

People, who often use razors, know: the cutting edge is growing, meaning that the very fine burr on the cutting edge (which can be seen under the microscope) changes whenever the razor is used, but it finally goes back to its old position and will become very fine again. Nevertheless the burr will wear out after a certain period of time, and then the suitable razor strop should be bought. How do I whet the razor with the strop? While flat blades are whetted on a suspended strop (velvet knives), 1/2 or 1/1 concave blades require a hanging strop made of fine cowhide leather or extremely supple Russia leather either with a turning device for hanging up or with hemp hose on the back, which serves to align the "fin" in the direction pointing away from the razor. If required, the leather side can be rubbed with an extremely thin layer of fine abrasive paste (red paste) and - for a final polishing on a separate strop - with polishing paste (black paste), which is worked in with the ball of the thumb.

Stropping is performed at a flat angle with the back of the razor laid on the strop; the razor is drawn in the direction away from the body. The razor is then turned over on its back and drawn in towards the body. Changing directions without turning the razor over makes the blade become round (crowned) so that the cutting properties are lost. In this case, only resharpening can help. How do I shave with the razor? The beginner starts first with the smooth and unproblematic areas of the face. To do this, the opened razor is held with thumb and three fingers so that the opened holder points away from the face. Lathered with good shaving soap and thus made supple, the skin must be tightened; the razor is moved at an angle of approx. 30° firstly in the direction of growth of the beard and then against the direction of growth. If held too flat, the razor rips the stubble; if held too upright, it cuts the skin. Always move it in the direction of the cutting edge and never horizontally (danger of injury); always draw it through evenly and hold it a little more upright at corners, dimples and at the upper lip.

If the razor gets damaged by being dropped or when being put into its holder, it should not be used further. Stropping does not help here; the razor must be resharpened and whetted by a specialist. What sort of steel is most suitable for straight razors? The basic materials for good straight razors are standard steels with a carbon content of 0.6% and greater and which attain a maximum of hardness, elasticity and resistance to wear in a careful process of tempering and treatment. The advantage of stainless grades of steel is that these require less looking after. The straight razor I bought a short time ago no longer shaves properly. Do I have to whet it, and how often is this necessary? DOVO straight razors are whetted in the factory for use (whetting on leather by hand). If you own a suitable strop, you should nevertheless take into account that the razor must first "rest" after use. After the razor has been carefully rinsed and dried, it should not be used again for at least 24 - 48 hours because the fine "fin" on the cutting edge straightens up again extremely slowly.

If the razor is stropped too soon (or stropped incorrectly by moving it backwards and forwards without turning it over), the "fin" which is necessary for a close shave breaks off. Between six and fifteen shaves are possible without stropping in between. Arthur Boon agreed to allow us to post his personal observations. They are the opinions of one individual and are posted here to inform you of his conclusions. The KnifeCenter does not intend this information to be used as instructions and all razors and knives are sold to be used at the buyer's own risk. Some information below has been altered by the KnifeCenter of the Internet. Personal Observations About Straight Razors and Strops by Arthur Boon Introduction Starting its evolution as a scraping stone a thousand years ago, the straight razor gradually developed into what proved to be one of the most perfect and simple instrument designs of all times. The weight is very well balanced, the blade is easy to clean and thus extremely hygienic, and the blade geometry is designed to conserve an ideal edge with relative little equipment and effort for many decades, even generations, as a well treated straight razor has an almost unlimited life.

Also, when the skin has adapted to the change, the superficial peeling effect of the straight razor makes it suitable even for the irregular skin that suffers from the irritations caused by electric or safety razors. Little practice is needed to switch to the straight razor for the rest of your life, and to discard the alternative messy compromises as just nonfunctioning make-believe products of fast consumerism. Then what caused the decline of straight razor use? One of the factors contributing to that has been the inappropriate knowledge about maintenance among users but also among manufacturers and designers, which coincided with the upcoming market consisting of pseudo-user-friendly gadgets such as autostrops, rotating razors, and safety razors. This unnecessarily caused the straight razor to function far from optimal, and therefore comparable with the new inventions, which of course was the beginning of the end. Also, ghost stories about supposed dangers to damage the vital vessels in the neck made the picture complete, although a highly polished push cutter has far from relatively little slicing capabilities, and a home full of stabbing and dull cutting tools presents a much higher risk to playing children and pets than a clasp razor stored in a box on the upper shelf in a cupboard.

At present a few manufacturers each produce a few thousand straight razors a year, with some emphasize on collectors' items, a number that slightly increased in the nineties. The dedicated user faces the impossible task to collect contradictory information from several more or less reliable sources which all suffer from the fact that almost nothing of the theory which came down with generations has been published for future reference. In fact, the art of straight razor use and care is an example of lost knowledge. The purpose of this document, is to present a forum for discussion and conversion of knowledge on this topic, in order to reintroduce this 'non plus ultra inder Hand des Selbstrasierers'. I owe much to the enthusiasm of mr. J. Schremml wo gave me a guided tour at DOVO/Bracht Stahlwaren, Solingen, Germany in February 1999, showing me the production, hollow grinding, and honing techniques. Mr Schremml also borrowed me the original and last pre-world war specimen of a study book on this topic, referenced below. Further, I got information form video's and books, indicated in the references below, and from users who shared experiences on rec.knives.

Description of Straight Razor Anatomy Orientation used in the description: the handle to the right, blade to the left, cutting edge pointing downwards. Kopf/Point/Bout/Punta: the left end of the blade. Blade, with a Ruecken/Back/Dos/Lomo, the part of the blade opposite the cutting edge, and a Schneide/Cutting edge/Tranchant/Corte (pointing downwards). Erl/Tang/talon/Espiga: the complete non-cutting metal part fixed to the blade, serving as a grip for the index, middle, ring, and little finger. Doppelansatz/Double stabilizing piece/Double piece stabilisatrice/Doble pieza estabilizadora: two close parallel vertical rims situated where the tang continues to the cutting part on the knife. Sometimes there is only one stabilizing piece. Kranzangel/Decorated tang/Talon decore/Espiga decorada: some sort of art where the blade stops and the tang begin. Schale/Handle/Manche/Cacha: the the part of the razor that contains the blade when closed. Sometimes it has an Einlage/Inlay/Marque/Marca (text, mark on the handle).

Steg/Center plug/Rivet central/Remanche estabilizador: the middle plug on the handle; Hohlung/Hollow ground/Evidage/Filo Concavo: the biconcave form of the blade in transection view. Goldaetzung/Gold etching/Gravure doree/Grabado dorado: the mark or text on the blade. Zeichen/Trade mark/Marque/Marca, the mark/text graved on the tang. The Ridge/Der Wall: parallel to the back and the edge, running from point to the stabilizing piece, is a thickening of the blade, the purpose of which is to stabilize against torsion in the horizontal plane, and to give the edge elasticity. The stabilizing piece gives the blade torsion resistance in the vertical plane. If the ridge is close to the edge, it is called =BC hollow ground, the lowest grade of hollow ground; if it is close to the back, it is called 1/1 or full hollow ground; =BD and =BE are in-between. More on grind types below.

Types Flat and hollow-ground: Derbes Messer/Flat ground/Le rasoir plein: the cross section of the blade is a triangular shape; Hohl/Full hollow ground/Creux/Concavo: biconcave cross-section; Something in between (1/2 or =BE hollow). Blades Round point/Rundkopf: the point is rounded. Square point/Gradkopf: the point is square, forming a spike at the transition between point and cutting edge. Something in-between: Franzkopf Blade sizes (width) are: 3/8", 4/8", 5/8", 6/8", 7/8". Principals of Straight Razor Geometry In the beginning straight razor blades were wedge shaped, the sides of the blade were straight lines, not concave (hollow). These blades shaved as perfect as the later hollow ground blades, if sharp, but had some disadvantages. First, they were heavy, compromising balance. Second, due to the wedge shape, the sides of the blade above the cutting edge instead of the edge itself, primarily touched the hone surface while honing.

Third, after years of daily use, the regular honing caused rapid thickening of the edge width, thus making sharpening increasingly difficult and time consuming. Therefore, the next step was to clear the blade sides from the hone surface, in order to reduce weight, and to use the back as a guide for keeping the correct angle of the cutting edge, with which it forms one plane. This was done by grinding away metal between the cutting edge and the back with a wheel, resulting in a biconcave, hollow ground blade (at first without a ridge), combining an extremely thin blade with a very small cutting angle under 15 degrees. The disadvantage of this second step without a ridge was, that the ultra thin biconcave blades were unstable in the direction perpendicular to the plane of the blade. Therefore the third step was to create a ridge parallel to the cutting edge, dividing the blade in two parts: an upper part between back and ridge, and a lower part between ridge and cutting edge. The ridge is created by grinding the raw triangular basic form with successive different wheel diameters: the greater wheel for the part between ridge and back; the smaller wheel for the part between ridge and cutting edge.

The result consists of two hollow grind blade divisions separated by a thicker ridge, with hardly visible smooth transitions. The closer the ridge is to the back, the more the type goes from =BC to 1/1 hollow grind. The ridge presents stability and vibrations which add to cutting performance, which can be identified by transversely rubbing the thumb carefully over the edge, causing a ringing sound. The ridge is not that thick that it touches the hone, of course, and you can hardly see or feel it. The three parts (two concave parts separated by the ridge) are identified under a sharp light: the ridge diverges the light and is therefore identified as a linear shadow, parallel to the edge. The full hollow grind blades have the ridge at about a little below halfway between back and edge; lower grades of hollow ground just behind the edge, or somewhat further to the middle of the blade. A full (1/1) hollow ground blade keeps a very thin edge even after a lifetime of honing and stropping; a =BC ground blade edge rapidly thickens after years of honing, because of the proximity of the ridge to the edge.

Recognizing A double stabilizing piece (two vertical rims between tang and blade) implies 1/1 (full-) hollow ground, but some full hollow ground blades have no stabilizing pieces at all, but instead a smooth transition between blade and tang. Theoretically, you might confuse a single stabilization piece (which indicates less than 1/1 hollow ground) with these types of full hollow ground blades but there is a difference which can be seen with the full hollow ground Bismarck or Renaissance (DOVE) types of blades. The Bismarck shows a smooth transition between blade and tang, lacking any rim, and therefore is easily identified as full hollow ground. The Renaissance has one rim, which might indicate either less than 1/1 hollow ground (cheaper) or full hollow; the fact that the rim is ot confined to the blade, but runs through into the tang, identifies this type as full hollow ground. If the transition from tang to blade shows one vertical rim that is confined to the blade and exactly vertical, it must be a flat ground or =BD-3/4 hollow.

Purpose of Types In general: the higher the grade of hollow grinding, the easier it is for the customer to keep the blade in perfect condition with relative ease (stropping and sometimes honing). Flat ground: in general for heavy and less perfect shaving, for contour shaving, hospitals, etc. Full hollow ground: for thorough and precise shaving. 3/8", 4/8": for hospitals, eyebrows, and a very soft beards. 3/8" and 4/8" are mostly flat or half-hollow- ground. 4/8", 5/8": preferred for daily shaving, specially 5/8" which has more torsion resistance. 6/8" and 7/8" were originally designed for persons with very large hands and/or the handicapped, but also have very good torsion resistance and shaving characteristics. Blade Materials Blades are made of normal steel with a carbon-content of 0.6% or more, and of rust-resistant chromium-steel. Carbon steel is easier to sharpen but more brittle, liable to chipping off and staining. Stain-resistant steel takes longer honing, but the results hold longer, and the edge is less vulnerable.

Handle Materials Ambonia, Celluloid, Bone, Pakkawood, Mother of pearl, Ebony, Buffalo horn, Plastic. Celluloid is flammable and spontaneous inflammation has been described at higher natural temperatures. Even now, celluloid production is associated with extreme safety measures. Buffalo Horn can deform after some time, increasing the risk of edge damage when closing the knife: it has form memory, but for the wrong form. Mother of pearl is brittle, which might result in cracks soon. Plastic is very thin and easy to deform, causing increased risk that the edge touches the handle while closing it. The hardwood handles do not rot because they are highly impregnated with resins; the weight gives ideal balance. Bone is stable as well. Both pakkawood, snakewood, and bone are have the best material properties for intensive use. Honing and Grinding You can learn to sharpen any knife on a stone, and if you have experience, or use the right sharpening system you will get very good results. The principle of grinding any knife is restoring the gross shape of a blade according to it's grind-type (hollow, flat, or transitions); this is mostly done with machines such as grinding wheels.

Grinding does not sharpen a knife. The principle of honing is to create a good cutting edge angle and the blade part directly adjacent to it, the relief. The relief is created by honing with a secondary angle on a stone until a burr appears, and subsequently create the primary angle (this is the cutting angle, which is somewhat greater than the secondary angle, but both under 25 degrees) to remove the burr. The relief/secondary/primary angle principle makes the blade more resistant for less than delicate use. The primary/secondary angle/relief principle does not hold for straight razors. The cutting edge of about 15 degrees (primary angle) is followed by a biconcave (hollow) part, and a ridge, respectively. This unity keeps the edge ultra thin during its life despite honing and stropping, and on the other hand supplies the blade with enough rigidity because of the ridge. Also, the absence of a relief with a secondary angle, clears the cutting edge while honing with the back resting on the hone surface. The back serves as a guide which conserves the primary cutting angle under all circumstances and the same applies to the strop.

This implies that the primary/secondary angle story is not valid for =BC, 1/2, =BE and 1/1 hollow ground straight razors. In fact, the ridge and the hollow grind part between ridge and edge, are some kind of relief-substitute, which is not a compromise at all, because it's function is delicate without requiring any force. It has been unclear why and when a blade should be re-hollow ground. The German book referenced below, however, states that only extreme abuse is a reason to restore the architecture with a grinder. As this results in blade reduction, the back must be reduced accordingly to preserve the correct cutting angle. If you care for the blade as a 'good house-father' self-honing and stropping is enough. If the damage is nothing more than just touching the edge with your nail, causing a little local flattening of the edge, then honing will be sufficient. On the other hand, when dropping causes a defect in the edge you won't get rid of it with honing, and this needs repare with a hollow grinder. At DOVO, the grinding is done by moving the blade between two wheels.

After the grinding, they machine-hone on the side of a moving wheel, in the direction (!) of the edge and not towards it, untill a burr appears. This is done with the cutting angle, so with the back just not (to prevent damage to the back) touching the wheel. On a second, finer, honing wheel the burr is removed, again with the same cutting angle determined by the back. Water is used on both wheels. Then the honing starts, on a very fine Belgian Old Rock and succesively on a even finer one, called Escher waterstone, type Rasierstube. The Old Rock is also called Belgian oil stone, but Dovo uses water. Razor Edge Systems suggests that any liquid, whether oil or water, creates a sludge with the metal and stone particles, rounding off the edge, thus causing blunting. This contradicts with the observation of German smiths, that a hone performs best when you create that sludge before starting, by rubbing the hone with a small stone and water. They state that ' especially when the sludge is present, the edge will be extremely polished and sharp'.

The last hone in the process, the Escher waterstone, even comes with a separate rubbing stone, and a manual how to create the sludge. At DOVO, honing is done with circular movements, manually, with impressive speed. First on one side, and then the other, so not alternating. The result is obvious: the hones wear off irregularly, causing a concave surface. Then they need a new hone. The reason for doing so is time-efficiency. For the consumer who wants the hone to serve for an unlimited period of time, the following alternating linear method is better. Lay the blade completely flat on the stone and push it forward into the direction of the cutting edge, and slightly diagonally in the horizontal plane over the stone (the reason for that is to hone the complete cutting edge). Then turn the knife over the back without lifting it from the stone. Never turn over the edge, this will blunt the blade. Then repeat into the other direction; repeat this process about 10 or 20 times. Some things are critical in order to get a sharp edge: the first is to ensure that the razor lays completely flat, so that the edge and the back touch the stone surface.

This is to keep the exact required angle of the edge. The second is, that the razor remains flat on the stone during the movement. If you don't have experience, you will only succeed doing so if you hone extremely slow, and study the process carefully. Only then you will be able to observe that during the stroke, the edge or the back will tend to lift from the stone a millimeter on one side which you must correct, which is only possible when honing extremely slowly. Here, speed does not add up to better results, not even in experienced hands.This will give excellent results even for beginners (I tried it that way, with already immediate perfect results). The third is, that you don't press on the blade while honing: the weight of the blade is enough. Pressing will deform the angle. Hones should be large, because the surface is then completely in contact with the cutting edge; any damage or irregularities to the sides of the stone are then less critical because you will not reach them. You notice that when you carefully make a cutting movement over your thumbnail; any knick feels like a sudden obstacle.

It also gets damaged when you strop the wrong way, with the wrong paste, or when the razor gets into contact with aggressive agents (see below). The honing should be done only about once in one or two months in the following way: you probably preferrably should have a large Belgian oil stone, completely smooth. Put some drops of oil (Buck's, or sewing machine oil, but no alimentary oil - no reason specified) on it. Cleaning the stone: Advises vary from cleaning with a cloth to cleaning with steel wool, or not cleaning at all. The ratio of cleaning is in removing metal particles out of the stone's pores, according to razor Edge Systems. Uncleaned stones kept their quality in their experiments, however. This still has to be cleared. Stropping, General When you shave, the cutting edge gets somewhat misaligned microscopically. It looks like microserrations, bending aside irregularly. If you put the knife away, the cutting edge stretches ('grows') spontaneously within 24 hours. After 3 or 4 shaves it should be aligned a little bit again and therefore you must strop.

If you do that correctly, and treat the blade well, you only need to hone once every month or even year, and never send it in fro grinding. You need the right strop and the right paste. The game is, to postpone honing as long as possible, and to use the strop almost exclusively. Any other reports are due to wrong care. Stropping occurs at the exact same angle as with honing. Stropping serves to polish the edge and to align any remaining mislalignment of the microserrations. This implies that a hanging strop should be kept under tension to keep the angle correct. The former reports that the hanging-through would be beneficial for the edge, is incorrect, but may be this belief comes from experiences with plain blades (not hollow), as this will create a situation comparable with the primary/secondary angle/ relief story that applies to most knives. The hollow ground razor blade has only one single angle that should be conserved during all succesive procedures, ranging from grinding to stropping. Hanging thorugh will just round off the edge you carefully created before.

Strop Types Leather only Leather on one side and canvas on the other side: this is preferred above leather only because you first pre-sharpen on the canvas. Leather glued on wood and adjustable strops: for the un-experienced and for flat-ground blades. If you let a hanging strop hang through while stropping, you will blunt the knife. This may be a reason for the unexperienced to buy this latter type of strop. Juchten-leather: is more durable, and of better quality than Rind-leather. Pre-pasted strops, either with red, or with green paste. The strop should be reserved exclusively for the paste it has been treated with. Hanging strops with leather handles are more expensive but more comfortable than those with metal clamps. Paste Types White: chalk-containing paste for on the canvas-side of the strop ('Hanfseite') It is difficult to find it, it is in no catalog but it is available for ordering. Yellow: paste for on the leather side to make it sticky and souple, it is just fat. Red and Green: coarse and very coarse abrasives. They have never been designed for use with straight razors originally and should and need NOT be used.

They will spoil the edge and are illogical, because any razor hone will be finer. When stropping is not enough effective, just hone. Black: a polishing paste almost without cutting effect, just as the white and yellow ones. You don't need this for sharpening results, but might want it to get a shine. However, the silicate in the leather strop will have an even better polishing effect, when used with the yellow inert paste, so black paste has no place here as well. Which Strop With Which Paste Probably the best combination is a hanging strop with a leather handle, Juchten-Leder on one side and canvas ('Hanf') on the opposite side, 450 mm long and 50 mm broad, with yellow paste on the leather side, and white paste on the canvas side. My personal experience with the leather-on-wood and adjustable strops is, that they don't give contact with the knife over their complete surface because it is somewaht convex, and that the hanging strops permit more control in that respect. Pasting the strop is only necessary two or three times a year with 3 cm of paste.

You need only a few drops, and then spread with the palm of your hand. It makes the strop somewhat sticky ('Zug'), which is better for the alignment of the cutting edge. You will need a little tube for some years. Some manufacturers say that you can use either yellow or white both on leather and on canvas, but as the manuals differ from that opinion, I do not yet rely on that information, as chalk is more coarse than fat alone. I would advise not to use the white paste on the leather, only on the canvas. Stropping Technique Strop only before shaving, after the edge could 'grow' for at least 24 hours, burt preferably 48 hours. If you strop the edge immediately after shaving, the misaligned microserrations behave as a burr, which will break off and penetrate the leather, which will turn into sandpaper. If you honed just before stropping, clean the blade with water and soap and dry with a cloth without touching the edge; this too is to prevent small metal parts to get stuck into the strop, which can damage the edge while stropping. Keep the tang between index finger and thumb and keep those fingers stretched.

Place the blade flat on the strop. In case of a hanging strop, keep it under tension continuously, because if you let it hang through, you will create a round and therefore blunt cutting edge. Pull the blade over the strop away from the cutting edge and in the direction of the back. If you strop the other way in the direction of the edge (which is the case during honing), you will cut through the strop, or you will cause knicks which will damage the razor. In the course of this stroke, take care that the complete cutting edge has touched the strop. The pressure of the knife on the strop should not exceed the weight of the knife, to prevent rounding and thus blunting the cutting edge. At the end of the stroke, keep the blade in contact with the strop, and swing the blade 180 degrees, causing it to rotate around the back; the back should keep in contact with the strop. Then do a stroke in the other direction. Repeat this about 10-60 times. Do this procedure first on the canvas (about 10 times) next on the leather.

This communication reflects some personal conclusions of a private person; I have no commercial or private binding with any of the above mentioned firms. — Arthur Boon Straight Razor Strop | eBay Straight Razor Strop Professional Barber Dual Sided Leather Strop Straight Razor Sharpening Shaving. Professional Straight Razor Sharpening Strop. Perfect for sharpening and maintaining edge on straight razors. Suede Side... Condition: | 720 sold Professional 1PCS RAZOR SHAPING STROP. 21" Brown Shaping Strop. One side has Genuine Leather. The other side is Canvas. | 13 sold Professional Barber Leather Strop Straight Razor Sharpening Shave Shaving Strap ( 20" OVERALL ). "The sale of this item may be subject to regulation by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration and state ... | 525 sold One of the most popular, nostalgic tools of all time. The straight razor has been around for centuries and continues to be a worldwide favorite. The 4.5" blade with 3" face features the Pride Cutlery ... | 111 sold This is the Cut Throat Leather Facial Straight Razor Sharpening Strop.

It features a 13" x 2" double sided workable area and a 5" leather handle. This flexible strip of leather is used to straighten a... | 59 sold Dovo Straight Razor Leather Strop paste. Double sided Cowhide Leather Sharpening Strop with Canvas combination. Leather Thickness 2.50 mm. Feel confident buying from Super-shave. CREDIT CARD. | 117 sold White Pearl Handle Folding Shaving Straight Razor & Leather Sharpening Strop. One of the most popular, nostalgic tools of all time. The straight razor has been around for centuries and continues to be... | 217 sold Professional Sharpening Strop. Give your straight razor an edge for a better shave. One side has Brown Raw Cowhide Leather. When finished shaving, you should rinse the blade with cold, clear water and... | 122 sold One of the most popular, nostalgic tools of all time. The straight razor has been around for centuries and continues to be a worldwide favorite. The 4.5" blade with 3" face features the Pride Cutlery ...

| 186 sold Salon Shaving Straight Blade Barber Razor & Leather Sharpening Strop Set. Combo Set Includes One White Pearl Razor and One Leather Strop. Genuine Leather Strop. Dual Sided Strop, Suede Side and Smooth... | 170 sold "The sale of this item may be subject to regulation by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration and state and local regulatory agencies. Be sure to add me to your favorites list ! Credit Cards Over The P... | 54 sold & Leather Sharpening Strop. High Quality 21" Black Leather Shaping Strop. When finished shaving, you should rinse the blade with cold, clear water and dab it dry. When sharpening (stropping) the blade... | 105 sold Dovo Leather Strop Paste Sharpening Strop Paste. DOVO GERMAN STRAIGHT RAZOR LEATHER STROP PASTE. Work a little into the strop surface. Paste is Non-Toxic. Buy It Now or Best Offer 12" in length, wood body and handle with 7" each of leather and of cork. I believe German in origin. If you need more images or information, just let us know.

Get Images that. | 145 sold This Flax-Linen Fire Hose was manufactured in the USA in 1974. GENUINE FLAX LINEN. The material is made from Flax Fibers and has not been bleached. It has been washed, by me, with a mild detergent and... | 100 sold Double Paste for Razor Strops. Red paste: medium grind effect for pre-sharpening. Black paste: low grinding effect for fine-sharpening and polishing. Money Saved was established in 2001. | 286 sold Salon Shaving Straight Blade Barber Razor & Leather Sharpening Strop Set. Combo Set Includes One Red Deer Razor and One Leather Strop. Genuine Leather Strop. Dual Sided Strop, Suede Side and Smooth Si... | 14 sold Double Sharpening Strop with Leather and Canvas combination. Leather Thickness 2.50 mm. We reserve the right to refuse any order. Buy It Now Free Shipping CONSTRUCTED OF THICK GENUINE LEATHER AND STAINLESS STEEL.

THE THINNER LEATHER (DARK PIECE) IS GENUINE SOFT LEATHER BACKED WITH NYLON FOR LONGER LASTING DURABILITY. THE THICKER PIECE IS RAWHIDE LEATHER... $19.95 Buy It Now This is a double strop. It has no makers mark that we could find. The leather strop is 16-1/2" long and the total length with hardware is 19" long. This Strop/Strap is in nice, all original condition. $9.99 0 bids ANTIQUE HOWARD'S PATENT ELASTIC RAZOR STROP. MADE OF ZINC & CALF SKIN LEATHER - FIRST PATENT (#117,421) DATE OF JULY 25, 1871. MANUFACTURED BY SHEPHERD & CO., PORTLAND MAINE (OLIVER HOWARD OWNED 1/2 I...

Barber Razors | BestGroomingTools.com Barber Razors Replaceable-Blade, No-Sharpen, Straight Razors Show: Professional Barber Razors are like conventional straight razors except they have Replaceable-Blades in order to comply with sanitary regulations and eliminate shaving with a dull blade. Choose from the different replaceable-blade razors below that may use any brand of double-edge razor blades cut-in-half, or pre-cut single edge blades, or hi-tech injector blades, or even special safety blades to prevent accidental cuts. These Straight Razors with Replaceable-blades take the hassle out of straight razor shaving by eliminating re-sharpening, honing and stropping. Straight Razor Shaving Guide — Gentleman's Gazette / 14 Comments /in Grooming , Our Best Articles , Razors , Reviews , Savoir Vivre , Shaving /by Karl H. Lincke In essence, the straight razor is a shaving blade that can be folded into its handle. They are also known as open razors or even cut-throat razors and are not to be confused with the double edge razor that was described in detail before .

Today, I’d like to start with a brief history of shaving , elaborate on the advantages and disadvantages of straight razor shaving, and provide a few tips on where and how to buy a straight-edge razor. Muehle mother of pearl shaving brushes Shaving History The act of shaving probably has its origins in Africa, some 100,000 years ago, back when cavemen began to pluck their facial hair using crude tweezers made of stone or notched seashells. The reasoning behind the sudden desire to rid themselves of their facial hair remains unclear. Whilst some simply see it as a result of the development of the essential tools and techniques required for the activity, others believe it was mainly to get rid of lice and other parasites. Whichever the case might have been, around 30,000 BC men tired of individually plucking out their facial hairs and invented flint blades, which they were able to sharpen sufficiently in order to shave. Shortly after the introduction of flint, some men started using sharpened seashells as blades, though it was not until about 3000 BC, when mankind invented metalworking, that flint faced a serious rival.

At around this time, copper-alloy razors appeared in ancient Egypt and India. The Egyptians switched to bronze razors between 1567 and 1320 BC, a big step forward in metallurgy. During his war against Persia, Alexander the Great ordered his Greek and Macedonian soldiers to shave off their beards. This legacy survived his premature death, and his victorious army continued to shave, initiating a trend that was imitated by civilians through the empire. Alexander wasn’t alone in seeing the clean-shaven look as a step up for civilization. When Peter the Great became Russian tsar in the late seventeenth century, he too decided that beards were archaic and taxed anyone who wore one. From the seventeenth century onwards, shaving technology improved enormously. The first recognizable straight razor appeared in Sheffield, England in 1680, and by the middle of the 18th century high-quality blades had become available. King Camp Gillette Shortly before the First World War, Mr. King Camp Gillette patented his safety razor and made a deal with the U.S. armed forces. Every American soldier sent off to Europe was issued a Gillette safety razor in his backpack.

However, when the men continued to use them after the war, it became apparent that the way that men liked to shave was changing. Nevertheless, enthusiasts of the traditional straight razor have refused to give up their tool of choice to this day, and the number of straight razor users seems to be increasing again. Advantages & Disadvantages of Straight Razors Using the straight razor gives you a smoother shave than even the most modern electric or safety razors, and if done accurately, reduces or eliminates razor burns and nicks. After the initial investment, it reduces the cost of shaving by eliminating the need for expensive razor cartridges or disposable blades. It also reduces your environmental impact with little to no waste. Straight razor shaving can make you feel like a craftsman – something not offered by the bare utility of a safety or electric razor. It is a daily exercise that will separate you from the masses. However, the price of quality that it takes a bit more effort and time to use than a simple safety razor, and most men do not have enough time to spend 20 minutes shaving.

Now, the shave itself should not take any longer than it does with a safety razor, but you’ll need additional time to maintain your blade, which has to be honed and stropped. Shaving with a straight razor also requires more concentration in the early morning hours than any other shaving alternative. So, you’ll have to grow accustomed to being more alert when you shave, in order to avoid hurting yourself. Böker Silver Steel straight razor How to Buy a Straight Razor Unlike other razors,you can purchase straight razors either new or used! For example, you may find them on eBay , at flea markets or antique stores. Almost all used razors require serious reconditioning work before they can be used. A professional blade restoration will help you to avoid irritating your skin and causing nicks and cuts, but as a basic rule, if you are a novice to straight razors, you should abstain from using second-hand blades. So, now you are in the market for a new razor. In my experience, you should buy one that is made either in Germany or France. This may seem harsh towards other manufacturers and indeed other countries, but I have tried many of them from around the globe and this is what I have found to be true.

If you ever find yourself tempted to go for a new straight razor “budget” alternative, try not to give in and at least be extremely cautious. They may look wonderful, but they are frequently made from inferior steel and you will feel the difference on your skin. Many are in fact unusable. To determine whether the quality of a straight razor is decent, you can employ the ´finger nail test´. Only the edge of a perfectly ground blade can visibly be bent on your thumbnail, returning immediately to its original shape when released. Cheap blades are too thick and don’t bend, which is why they are referred to by some as ´axes.´ German Straight Razors When I say straight razors from Germany, I basically mean the town of Solingen, which has been the center of quality cutlery for ages. In my opinion, they produce the best blades and although I’m German, once you see the quality I think you’ll agree that there’s no bias here. Straight razors with the word Solingen on the blade are so good that the name had to be protected legally in 1938. DOVO Best-class straight razor Dovo One of the commonly known brands from Solingen is Dovo .

This venerable company was founded in 1906 by Mr. Dorp and Mr. Voss – hence the name Dovo. Over the years, Dovo has taken over a lot of other straight razor manufacturers (Tennis, Bismarck, Ankerflagge, Kronpunkt and Fontana), which brought together a wealth of manufacturing experience, resulting in a superior product. Generally, their straight razors will last for a long time and even their least expensive razors will serve you well for years as long as you maintain them properly. The lower end Dovo Best Quality razors can be purchased at prices from $110 / 85 € up to $300 / 230 € . The options for the handle material are manifold: you can choose between desert ironwood, Spanish oak, buffalo horn, ebony or ordinary plastic variations. Those handles made of wood are normally treated to be water-resistant, though this isn´t really necessary because it is not supposed to get wet. At the end of the day, the material of the handle doesn’t make a big difference and it simply comes down to personal preference.

Damascus Steel Straight Razor by Böker Böker Another manufacturer of straight razors from Solingen is the less well-known brand Böker. Founded in 1869, Böker has always focused on using nothing but the best materials, and they aim to maintain the highest production standards. Following World War II, the manufacturing of straight razors gradually declined, but in recent years there has been a straight razor revival. Although mostly known for their hunting knives, Böker also boasts fantastic straight razors. All of them are made using traditional methods and up to 150 individual production steps are necessary to create these shaving masterpieces. Of course, everything is made by hand and their most expensive model is made of powdered, metallurgical stainless Damascus that forms 180 layers of Damascus steel. Such a piece comes at a price of $1300 / 700 € . However, they also have more affordable options such as the Böker King Cutter $ 170 / € 129.90 / and the Böker Silver Steel $ 220 /169.90 €.

It deserves mentioning that silver in this context is now a marketing term although blades around the turn of the century actually contained silver. Due to the addition of silver, the surface structure of the blade was refined, improving the overall cutting performance. Generally, it seems like the € prices are better than the $ prices, so you may want to consider paying in Euros. Later this year, Böker plans to extend their offerings, so stay tuned. In my opinion, the blades with their traditional hollow ground shape look truly amazing but the handle scales made of imitation ivory may not be everybody’s cup of tea. Thiers Issard Thiers-Issard Straight Razor, Special Edition, Round Tip, Festoned Spine, Bone Scales, Square Tortoise Inlay, Eagle, Gold Straight Razor Shaving For Beginners | The Art of Manliness The Art of Manliness Straight Razor available in the Store . The Razor. Your most important tool is your razor. Don’t get skimpy with your razor and buy the cheapest one. You don’t want the cheapest; you want the best. Poor razors end up being more trouble than they’re worth. They will irritate your skin and cause nicks and cuts that will annoy you as long as you use it.

A good quality razor, on the other hand, is a joy to use. If well maintained, a good razor will last for years. Your great-grandsons might even use it. You can purchase straight razors either new or used. You can find used straight razors on ebay and antique stores. Used razors will likely have imperfections in the blade that will require professional honing. A professional blade restoration will set you back about 30 bones, but it will save you from cutting the crap out of your face. If you’d like a new razor, check out classicshaving.com or straightrazordesigns.com . You can purchase pre-sharpened blades that are ready to use the first time you shave for about $130. When shopping for razors, consider the following factors: Check the steel’s quality. A razor with good temper sharpens better than poorer quality steels. One way to check if you have a well tempered blade is to catch the point of the blade under your thumbnail and let it slip off quickly. If the blade gives a good clear ring, it’s likely well tempered. If it doesn’t, the blade was likely tempered unevenly.

Most modern straight razors are ground with a hollow. Hollowing places a concave on each side of the blade that makes the razor lighter, sharper, and easier to handle. You can purchase blades with varying degrees of hollowing. While full concaves will give you the sharpest edge, it’s not recommend for beginners. When such an edge comes in contact with a stiff beard, unless you hold the blade very flat on the face, it is quite likely to bend and spring, resulting in a cut. Also consider the blade’s width when selecting a straight razor. Don’t select one that’s too wide. Look for a 5/8 size. It’s easy to control and follows your face’s contours more closely than other blades. Finally, consider what type of blade point you want. Blades come in either rounded or sharp points. Sharp points have a tendency to nick and cut, so go with a rounded point. Suggested Razors Dovo Red Wood Straight Razor 5/8″ The Hone. When you look at a razor’s edge under a microscope, you’ll see that it’s composed of several points that resemble saw teeth. When a razor becomes dull, these teeth are irregular and point in different directions.

Honing a blade restores these teeth to their original condition. The $10 whetstone you use to sharpen your pocketknife won’t work as a hone for your razor blade. They’re just too coarse for shaving blades. We need a quality hone with finer grit to get that sharp clean edge that will make shaving comfortable. A woodworking whetsone with a 4,000/8,000 grit combination will work, and you can easily find them at most hardware stores or online. Another hone option is a ceramic or “barber hone.” These are little trickier to find. Most are vintage, and you’ll have to scour eBay or antique stores to find one. Because they’re less coarse than traditional whetstones, ceramic hones require more strokes to sharpen your razor. Suggested Hones Norton 4,000/8,0000 Grit Combo Whetstone If you want to find a ceramic barber hone, look on eBay. The Strop. A blade taken directly from a hone is left rough and unfit to put on the face. Stropping your blade smooths the rough edges off your blade and sets those teeth in perfect alignment.

This gives your straight razor that keen edge that makes shaving a breeze. The most common strop is the hanging strop. Hanging strops consist of two parts: one canvas strip and one leather strip. Again, don’t get chintzy with your strop. Cheaper models use coarse canvas and leather. Unless you want to ruin your razor, you should never put it to such a sub-par strop. Suggested Strops Straight Razor Designs Strops Brush. A brush helps hydrate the shaving cream in order to form a thick and rich shaving lather. Using a brush to lather up helps get the shaving cream up under each whisker which results in better, smoother shaves. Plus, it just feels nice on your face to lather up with a brush. Brushes are made of either boar or badger hair. Boar hair brushes costs less, but they hold less moisture and consequently create a poor lather. Badger hair brushes cost more, but they produce a better lather. You can pick up a nice badger brush at any Crabtree and Evelyn or Art of Shaving. If you don’t have those in your area, try Amazon.

Suggested Brushes Body Shop For Men Shave Cream How to Hone a Straight Razor Honing a razor intimidates many men. However, honing isn’t that hard once you know how to do it properly. This quick guide will show you how. 1. Wipe the stone clean 2. If you’re using a whetstone, you’ll need to add a lubricant to the stone’s surface. Water, oil, or even a bit of shaving lather can work. The lubricant serves two purposes. First, it prevents the blade from heating up as you scrape it across the stone. If the blade gets too hot, you can actually cause some warping in the metal which will ruin the blade. Second, lubricant clears off any steel and stone particles that are created during honing. You need a clear surface to get the job done right. If you’re using a ceramic stone, you don’t have to add lubrication. 3. Lay the stone on a flat surface with the coarser side up. 4. Place the razor perfectly flat on the hone so the spine and edge touch the stone. If the edge only touches, you’ll end up with a short bevel and a dull edge. 5.

Hold the razor by the shank and start sharpening. Because the blade is longer than the stone’s width, you’ll need to sweep the blade sideways as you work, so you sharpen the entire edge evenly. Draw the blade from heel to point, forward against the edge, and with moderate pressure. When honing, the blade’s edge LEADS the stroke. This means the blade’s edge should point in the direction you stroke. 6. Without lifting the blade from the stone, turn the edge up, so that the razor rests on the back of the blade. 7. Draw the blade from heel to point, towards you. Again, apply moderate pressure. Diagram of proper honing 8. Continue honing until the blade is sufficiently sharp. A quick way to determine whether a blade is sharp enough is to draw the edge (from heel to point) very lightly, across a moistened thumbnail. If the blade digs into your thumbnail, with a smooth, steady grip, your blade is sufficiently sharp and is ready for stropping. A blunt razor will pass over the nail smoothly. An over-honed razor will stick into your nail and produce a harsh, disagreeable feeling. The time required to hone your razor depends on your razor’s condition.

If it’s in good shape, 8 to 10 strokes in each direction should do the trick. If you have several nicks in the razor, you’ll need to put in more time. If your razor is in really bad shape, send it to a professional cutler to have it properly ground. Many men avoid straight razor shaving because they think they’ll have to hone the blade every time they shave. In reality, if you keep your blade dry and properly stropped, you won’t have to hone it that often. Most good blades can go 6 to 8 weeks between honings. You’ll know you need to hone it because stropping won’t sharpen it anymore. How to Strop a Straight Razor To get the most comfortable and effective shave, strop your straight razor every time you shave. 1. Hang your strop from your bathroom drawer using the hook on one end of the strop. 2. If you’re stropping right after honing, just use the strop’s leather side. Between shaves, start off with the canvas side before using the leather. 3. Holding the handle at the strop’s bottom in your left hand, pull the strop tight.

If the strop is loose and you take your blade over it, you could end up with a rounded, dull edge, which means you’ll have to hone it more frequently. 4. Hold the razor by its shank in your right hand and place it flat on the strop on the end farthest from you. Unlike honing, the razor’s edge will TRAIL, and not lead the strokes. So, when you’re stroking the razor AWAY from you, the blade’s edge should face TOWARDS you. When you’re stroking the razor TOWARDS you, the blade’s edge should face AWAY from you. 5. Draw the blade towards you (again with edge pointing away from you), always keeping the heel of the razor in advance of the point of the razor. 6. When you reach the strop’s end, rotate the razor on its back until the un-stropped side comes in contact with the strop. The razor’s edge should face TOWARDS you now. 7. Draw the blade away from you, keeping the heel in advance of the point. 15-20 strokes in each direction on the strop should get your blade nice and sharp.

If you’re first starting out with straight razor shaving, take slow and even strokes. Develop speed gradually. Once you get the hang of it, stropping a razor shouldn’t take more than 30 seconds. How to Hold a Straight Razor For first-time straight razor shavers, a big question looming on their minds is: “How in the heck do I hold this thing?” Ask five different straight razor aficionados how to hold a straight razor and you’re likely to get five different answers. Advanced straight razor shavers change up grips depending on whether they’re shaving with, across, or against the grain or if they’re shaving a certain part of their face. For the beginner, we suggest this basic grip: Rest the first three fingers on the back of the blade. Rest your pinkie on the blade’s tang. Place your thumb on the side of the blade near the middle. This grip gives you nice control of the razor. You may have to adjust it when you shave different parts of your face, like your upper lip or your jaw. For more examples of how you can hold a razor, check out the Straight Razor Palace Wiki . Everyone has their personal preference when it comes to the technique they use with a straight razor.

Below we provide a suggested way to shave. As you gain experience wielding a straight razor, you’ll find yourself changing things up to suit your preference. If a particular way to shave with a straight razor works for you, then do it. Beard Prep For a comfortable, close shave, a little preparation before putting blade to face goes a long way. Soft whiskers cut more easily than dry whiskers. That’s why barbers wrap a hot towel around your face when you get a straight razor shave. The heat and water combination softens your beard and makes it ready for shaving. You can replicate the barbershop experience by soaking a towel in hot water, wringing it out, and placing it on your face for a few minutes. If you don’t have the time for such luxury, just shave after you get out of a hot shower. If you want a really soft beard, rub some hair conditioner into your beard before you start showering and rinse it out when you’re done. Lather Up Place a nickel-sized dollop of shaving cream into your mug. If you’re using shaving soap, put the soap cake at the bottom of the mug. Soak your brush in hot water. Flick excess water off the brush.

With the brush, mix the cream/soap thoroughly, using a combined stirring and churning motion until a thick lather appears. The more you rub the brush on the cream, the thicker the lather. Apply the lather to your face with your brush in swirling motions. Ensure that lather gets up under every single whisker. When you’ve covered your face completely, take a few strokes to even everything out. The Shave Stroke Begin with slow, even strokes and shave in the direction of your beard growth. Shaving against the grain can cause ingrown hairs and razor bumps. Hold the blade at a 30-degree angle. Anything more and you risk cutting yourself; anything less and you won’t cut the whiskers. Also, apply very little pressure when you shave. Let the razor do the work! Pressing down on the razor will only cause cuts. Shave the Right Side of Your Face Start off by shaving the right side of your face. Reach over your head with your left hand and draw the skin upward with your fingers, thus making a smooth shaving surface. Shave downward until you clear about half the right cheek. Slide the left hand down further until the fingers rest in the middle of the cheek. Pull the skin upward.

Continue shaving downward until you shave the entire right side of the face. Shave the Right Side Under Your Jaw After shaving the right cheek, move on to the right jaw. Tilt your head back and to the left, exposing the skin under your right jaw. With the fingers of your left hand, draw the skin tight under the jaw. Shave downward if the beard grows in that direction. Shave the Left Side of Your Face Many right handed shavers switch hands to shave the left side of their face. Personally, I don’t trust the dexterity and touch in my left hand to make the switch. So I continue using my right hand to shave. Place the fingers of your left hand in front of and just above the ear. Pull upward on the skin so as to draw the skin taut. With the razor in your right hand, toe pointing upward, reach across the face, and shave downward. Walk your left fingers down as you get to the lower part of the cheek and chin. Keep pulling the skin taut. Shave the Left Side Under the Jaw Tilt your head back and to the right, exposing the skin under your left jaw. Pull the skin downward with your left hand and shave with the grain.

Shave the Upper Lip Draw the upper lip down as much as possible to tighten skin. Shave downwards. Shaving the Chin Draw your lower lip up as much as possible. This will pull the skin tight, making it easier to shave the whiskers underneath your lip and on your chin. Shaving Under the Chin Throw your head back and elevate the chin. With your left fingers, draw skin downward. Take extra care as you shave. The skin under the neck is much more sensitive and prone to cutting. Important Note: Always wear a sweet vest when shaving with a straight razor. This greatly improves the quality of your shaves. Should I do multiple passes? If you want that smooth as a baby’s behind look, you’ll have to do multiple passes with the razor going across and against the grain. For the beginner, I recommend just going over your face again with a downward stroke. Shaving across and against the grain increases the chances of cutting yourself. After you gain some experience with your straight razor, you can try adding an across the grain and against the grain pass. An across-the-grain pass is when you shave in the direction perpendicular to that which the beard grows.

So if your whiskers grow downward on your cheek, you’ll shave across your cheek from right to left or left to right. Shaving against the grain involves shaving against the direction your beard grows. It’s basically the reverse of shaving downward. If you decide to do multiple passes, the sequence goes thusly: Shave with the grain. Before each pass, wash your face off and re-lather. Post-Shave Rinse your face off with cool water. Splash a manly smelling aftershave on your face. Witch hazel and bay rum are nice. Aftershave helps reduce skin irritation and leaves your skin looking healthy. Follow by applying a small quantity of talcum powder to your face. Dealing with Nicks and Cuts Cuts and nicks happen for several reasons, such as: Using a dull razor Shaving with a razor that’s too hollow Shaving in too great a hurry Shaving against the grain When you first start out with a straight razor, you’re guaranteed to cut yourself. Don’t let this discourage you. Cuts happen to even the best barbers. Just keep at it. You’ll get the hang of it.

You can stop most minor cuts and nicks by simply pressing the cut together while adding pressure. If that doesn’t work, take a syptic pencil to the cut. If you cut your jugular, well, you’re sort of screwed. So don’t do that. Getting Started Some might understandably balk at plunking down $150 dollars for all the tools needed for getting started with straight razor shaving. After all, what if you don’t end up enjoying this method of shaving? (I’m pretty sure you will, but hey, you never know.) Luckily, there is a way to very cheaply dip your toes into the straight razor waters. Pick up a disposable straight razor from a beauty supply store or elsewhere. They only cost a few bucks, and there’s no need for honing and stropping. Just throw it away when the blade dulls. At that point, you’ll know if you want to go in whole hog or not. Further Reading As I mentioned at the beginning, this post is just a beginners guide to straight razor shaving. Hopefully, we provided you with enough info to help you get started with this glorious man ritual. But don’t end your straight razor education here.

People have written gobs and gobs about straight razor shaving. Below I include a list of must read sites on straight razor shaving. These sites will fill you in on more details:

Question: What is name of the piece of leather on which a barber sharpens a cut throat razor?
Answer: STROP