Fabric & Textiles Glossary - Learn About Fabrics | Joel & Son Fabrics A Acetate A manufactured fiber formed by compound of cellulose, refined from cotton linters and/or wood pulp, and acidic acid that has been extruded through a spinneret and then hardened. Acrylic A manufactured fiber derived from polyacrylonitrile. Its major properties include a soft, wool-like hand, machine washable and dryable, excellent color retention. Solution-dyed versions have excellent resistance to sunlight and chlorine degradation. Alpaca A natural hair fiber obtained from the Alpaca sheep, a domesticated member of the llama family. The fiber is most commonly used in fabrics made into dresses, suits, coats, and sweaters. Angora The hair of the Angora goat. Also known as Angora mohair. Angora may also apply to the fur of the Angora rabbit. However, according to the U.S. Federal Trade Commission, any apparel containing Angora rabbit hair must be labeled as "Angora rabbit hair" on the garment. Applique - decorative technique where fabric shapes are sewn or embroidered onto a base fabric. B A knit or woven fabric made from a rough, curly, knotted boucle yarn.

The fabric has a looped, knotted surface and is often used in suits and coats. Broadcloth A plain weave tightly woven fabric, characterized by a slight ridge effect in one direction, usually the filling. The most common broadcloth is made from cotton or cotton/polyester blends. Broderie Anglaise Literally - English embroidery. The name is given to a type of cotton fabric embroidered with a design to form a buttonhole stitch outline which is then cut away. Broderie Anglaise is embroidered with white cotton threads. If a coloured thread is used this is often called eyelet work Burn-out A brocade-like pattern effect created on the fabric through the application of a chemical, instead of color, during the burn-out printing process. (Sulfuric acid, mixed into a colorless print paste, is the most common chemical used.) Many simulated eyelet effects can be created using this method. In these instances, the chemical destroys the fiber and creates a hole in the fabric in a specific design, where the chemical comes in contact with the fabric. The fabric is then over-printed with a simulated embroidery stitch to create the eyelet effect.

However, burn-out effects can also be created on velvets made of blended fibers, in which the ground fabric is of one fiber like a polyester, and the pile may be of a cellulosic fiber like rayon or acetate. In this case, when the chemical is printed in a certain pattern, it destroys the pile in those areas where the chemical comes in contact with the fabric, but leave the ground fabric unharmed. C Calico Similar to broadcloth, made of cotton or cotton/polyester and usually printed in small "country" design all-over with multi-colored floral patterns. Cashmere A luxury fiber obtained from the soft fleecy undergrowth of the Kashmir goat of Tibet, Mongolia, China, Iran, Iraq, and India. Most commonly used in sweaters, shawls, suits, coats, and dresse Canvas Medium to heavy weight cotton fabric woven closely in plain or twill with relatively large threads. Available in variety of colors, stripes and few printed designs. It is also referred as "duck" or "sailcloth". It has many uses. A lightweight, soft plain weave fabric with a slightly brushed surface. The fabric is often printed, usually in a floral paisley or abstract pattern.

Challis is most often seen in fabrics made of cotton, wool, or rayon. Chantilly lace French elaborate floral lace on hexagonal mesh ground outlined in heavy silk thread. Usually made with black threads and in strips which are later stitched together with an 'invisible' stitch called racroc to give the illusion of a large, continuous piece of lace. Originated in Chantilly, France in the 17th century. Chambray A plain woven fabric that can be made from cotton, silk, or manufactured fibers, but is most commonly cotton. It incorporates a colored warp (often blue) and white filling yarns. Charmeuse Satin silk weave with a crepe back. Chevron A regular and repeated zigzag pattern formed by reversing the twill weave. It is also known as herringbone. Chenille A specialty yarn, characterized by a pile protruding on all sides, resembling a caterpillar. The yarn is produced by first weaving a fabric with a cotton or linen warp and a silk, wool, rayon, or cotton filling. The warp yarns are taped in groups of tightly woven filling yarns, which have been beaten in very closely. After weaving, the fabric is cut into strips between the yarn groups.

Each cutting produces a continuous chenille yarn, which is then twisted, creating the chenille yarn, and giving the pile appearance on all sides of the yarn. The chenille yarn is used mainly for decorative fabrics, embroidery, tassels, and rugs. A soft, fine wool heavier than serge. A plain/printed woven lightweight, extremely sheer, airy, and soft silk fabric, containing highly twisted filament yarns. The fabric, used mainly in evening dresses and scarves, can also be made from rayon and other manufactured fibers Chintz A plain-weave fabric, which has been glazed to produce a polished look. Usually made of cotton, this fabric is most commonly used in blouses, dresses, draperies, and slipcovers. A compound or double fabric with a figured blister effect, produced by using yarns of different character or twist which respond in different ways to finishing treatments. Crepe A light soft thin fabric with a crinkled surface. It is made from silk, cotton, wool, or another fiber either in plain or satin weave. Woven of hard spun silk yarn in the natural condition. The fabric has a somewhat crimpy or crepe surface created by the highly twisted fibers.

Colorfastness A term used to describe a dyed fabric's ability to resist fading due to washing, exposure to sunlight, and other environmental conditions. Converter A person or a company which buys grey goods and sells them as finished fabrics. A converter organizes and manages the process of finishing the fabric to a buyers' specifications, particularly the bleaching, dyeing, printing, etc. Corduroy A fabric, usually made of cotton, utilizing a cut-pile weave construction. Extra sets of filling yarns are woven into the fabric to form ridges of yarn on the surface. The ridges are built so that clear lines can be seen when the pile is cut. Cotton A unicellular, natural fiber that grows in the seed pod of the cotton plant. Fibers are typically 1/2 inch to 2 inches long. The longest staple fibers, longer than 1 1/2 inch, including the Pima and Egyptian varieties, produce the highest quality cotton fabrics. Count of Cloth The number of warp ends and picks per inch in a woven fabric. If a cloth is 68 X 72, it means there are 68 ends and 72 picks per inch in a woven fabric.

A cloth that has the same number of ends and picks per inch in woven goods is called a square cloth. 80-square percale, for example, has 80 warp ends and 80 picks per inch. Crepe-back Satin A satin fabric in which highly twisted yarns are used in the filling direction. The floating yarns are made with low twist and may be of either high or low luster. If the crepe effect is the right side of the fabric, the fabric is called satin-back crepe. Crinoline A lightweight, plain weave, stiffened fabric with a low yarn count (few yarns to the inch in each direction). Often used to structure under garments D Damask A formal satin base Jacquard fabric of linen, cotton, silk, or wool with reversible patterns. It is medium weight with variety in colors and patterns. Used in decorative fabric situation. Denier A system of measuring the weight of a continuous filament fiber. In the United States, this measurement is used to number all manufactured fibers (both filament and staple), and silk, but excluding glass fiber. The lower the number, the finer the fiber; the higher the number, the heavier the fiber.

Numerically, a denier is the equivalent to the weight in grams of 9,000 meters of continuous filament fiber. Denim A coarse twilled cloth, usually of cotton or cotton/polyester which is practical and sturdy. Navy colored is used as jeans fabric and cream or white is used as Drill. Devore A process whereby certain chemicals are printed onto specially made cloths and which produce sheer areas in the fabric. For example, an animal fibre cloth can be embroidered with vegetable fibres. The wool is then burnt out with caustic soda or the cotton with sulphuric acid which leaves a very lacy structure. Doeskin Generally applied to a type of fabric finish in which a low nap is brushed in one direction to create a soft suede-like hand on the fabric surface. End-uses include billiard table surfaces and men's' sportswear. Dotted Swiss A lightweight, sheer cotton or cotton blend fabric with a small dot flock-like pattern either printed on the surface of the fabric, or woven into the fabric. End-uses for this fabric include blouses, dresses, baby clothes, and curtains.

Double Cloth A fabric construction, in which two fabrics are woven on the loom at the same time, one on top of the other. In the weaving process, the two layers of woven fabric are held together using binder threads. The woven patterns in each layer of fabric can be similar or completely different. Double Knit A weft knit fabric in which two layers of loops are formed that cannot be separated. A double knit machine, which has two complete sets of needles, is required for this construction. Double Weave A woven fabric construction made by interlacing two or more sets of warp yarns with two or more sets of filling yarns. The most common double weave fabrics are made using a total of either four or five sets of yarn. A strong twilled cotton fabric often used for trousers. Duchess Satin Also sometimes called silk satin, Duchess satin is shiny on one side, luxurious, and heavy because of its high thread count. It is frequently made of silk fibers, though it can contain silk plus polyester, rayon, or acetate filler, or be made entirely of polyester, and holds its shape well. Dyeing of the fabric into solid colors after weaving or knitting.

Dyeing of the yarn into solid colors before weaving or knitting. E Elastane A man-made fiber containing at least 85% polyurethane which is capable of high stretch followed by rapid and substantial recovery to its unstretched length. (See also elastomer; elastomeric yarn.) Embossing A calendering process in which fabrics are engraved with the use of heated rollers under pressure to produce a raised design on the fabric surface. A surface ornamentation made with a thread or set of threads sewn onto a fabric. F The right side or the better-looking side of the fabric. Facing A piece of fabric that is sewn to the collar, front opening, cuffs, or arms eye of a garment to create a finished look. A glossy, soft, finely-ribbed silk-like woven fabric made from cotton, silk, or manufactured fibers. Felt A non-woven fabric made from wool, hair, or fur, and sometimes in combination with certain manufactured fibers, where the fibers are locked together in a process utilizing heat, moisture, and pressure to form a compact material. Fiber The basic entity, either natural or manufactured, which is twisted into yarns, and then used in the production of a fabric.

Fil'Coupe A small jacquard pattern on a light weight fabric, usually silk, in which the threads connecting each design are cut, creating a frayed look. Filling In a woven fabric, the yarns that run cross the fabric from selvage to selvage, and which run perpendicular to the warp or lengthwise yarns. Also referred to as the weft. Finish A substance or the mixture of substances added to textile materials to impart the desired properties. Flannel A fabric woven and then brushed to achieve a soft nap. It is made of wool or a blend of wool and cotton or synthetics. Flannelette A medium-weight, plain weave fabric with a soft hand, usually made from cotton. The fabric is usually brushed only on one side, and is lighter weight than flannel. End-uses include shirts and pajamas. Flax The plant from which cellulosic linen fiber is obtained. Linen is used in apparel, accessories, draperies, upholstery, tablecloths, and towels. Flock A material obtained by cutting or grinding textile fibers to fragments.

There are two types of flock, precision cut flock, all fiber lengths are approximately equal and random cut flock, the fibers are ground or chopped to produce a broad range of lengths. Flocking A method of ornamenting cloth with adhesive printed or coated on a fabric. Finely chopped fibers are applied by dusting, air-blasting or electrostatic attraction. The fibers adhere to the printed areas and it is removed manually from the unprinted areas. Foulard A lightweight twill-weave fabric, made from filament yarns like silk, acetate, polyester, with a small all-over print pattern on a solid background. The fabric is often used in men's ties. Four-way Stretch A fabric that stretches both on the crosswise and lengthwise grains of the fabric. It is the same as two-way stretch. G A tightly woven, twilled, worsted fabric with a slight diagonal line on the right side. Wool gabardine is known as a year-round fabric for business suiting. Polyester, cotton, rayon, and various blends are also used in making gabardine. A sheer lightweight fabric, often made of silk or from such manufactured fibers as polyester, with a crepe surface. End-uses include dresses and blouses.

Gimp A thicker thread used to outline designs in bobbin lace Greige Goods An unfinished fabric, just removed from a knitting machine or a loom. Also called grey goods. A firm, closely woven ribbed fabric. Often used for ribbons. Guipure Lace A lace without a mesh ground, the pattern in held in place by connecting threads. H Habotai From the Japanese for "soft as down", habotai is a lightweight, plain weave silk fabric. Lighter than shantung, it is also referred to as habotai. Handle The way the fabric feels when it is touched. Terms like softness, crispness, dryness, silkiness are all terms that describe the hand of the fabric. Hemp A coarse, durable bast fiber obtained from the inner bark of the hemp plant. Used primarily in twines and cordages, and most recently apparel. Herringbone A regular zigzag pattern fabric with a novelty or complex twill weave. It is woven or printed on light-weight to heavy-weight fabrics. Houndstooth A medium to heavy weight woven twill fabric designed with continuous broken checks or four-pointed stars resembling projecting "tooth-like" corners.

I Interlining An insulation, padding, or stiffening fabric, either sewn to the wrong side of the lining or the inner side of the outer shell fabric. The interlining is used primarily to provide warmth in coats, jackets, and outerwear. Interfacing Fabrics used to support, reinforce and give shape to fashion fabrics in sewn products. Often placed between the lining and the outer fabric. It can be made from yarns or directly from fibers, and may be either woven, nonwoven, or knitted. Some interfacings are designed to be fused (adhered with heat from an iron), while others are meant to be stitched to the fashion fabric. J Jacquard Woven fabrics manufactured by using the Jacquard attachment on the loom. This attachment provides versatility in designs and permits individual control of each of the warp yarns. Thus, fabrics of almost any type or complexity can be made. Brocade and damask are types of jacquard woven fabrics. Jersey Fabric The consistent interlooping of yarns in the jersey stitch to produces a fabric with a smooth, flat face, and a more textured, but uniform back which will often give or stretch.

Jersey fabrics may be produced on either circular or flat weft knitting machines. L Decorative openwork fabric with sensitive use of spaces and solids. Can be achieved with the use of bobbins, crochet, needles or machine. Pronouced "lamay", lame is a shiny eveningwear fabric made from metallic yarns. Laminated Fabric A term used to describe fabrics which have been joined together through the use of a high-strength reinforcing scrim or base fabrics between two plies of flexible thermoplastic film. It can a bonded utilizing either foam itself, or some other material, such as adhesives, heat, or chemical bonding agents. Lawn A light, fine cloth made using carded or combed, linen or cotton yarns. The fabric has a crease-resistant, crisp finish. Linen lawn is synonymous with handkerchief linen. Cotton lawn is a similar type of fabric, which can be white, solid colored, or printed. Linen A fabric made from linen fibers obtained from inside the woody stem of the flax plant. Linen fibers are much stronger and more lustrous than cotton. Linen fabrics are very cool and absorbent, but wrinkle very easily, unless blended with manufactured fibers.

Linen is one of the oldest textile fibers. A fabric that is used to cover the inside of a garment to provide a finished look. Generally, the lining is made of a smooth lustrous fabric. Loden The name comes from the German loda meaning hair cloth. Traditionally woven in the Tyrol region of Austria. It is a sturdy fabric which has been made in the same way for almost 1000 years. It was only made with sheep's wool but now comprises Australian sheep's wool, Alpaca, mohair and camel hair. Once the cloth is woven it is shrunk by about one-third of it's original width. It is then raised, sheared and brushed. Traditional colours are black, red and white although green is now very popular. A machine used for weaving fabrics. Lurex A brand name of a type of metallic yarn, which is a polyester fiber with a vaporized layer of aluminum applied. The trademark name for DuPont's brand of Spandex fiber. Knit Fabrics Fabrics made from only one set of yarns, all running in the same direction.

Some knits have their yarns running along the length of the fabric, while others have their yarns running across the width of the fabric. Knit fabrics are held together by looping the yarns around each other. Knitting creates ridges in the resulting fabric. Wales are the ridges that run lengthwise in the fabric; courses run crosswise. M Madras A lightweight plain weave cotton fabric with a striped, plaid, or checked pattern. A true madras will bleed when washed. This type of fabric is usually imported from India. End-uses are men's and women's shirts and dresses. Matelasse' A heavyweight upholstery textile in Jacquard weave with double sets of warps and wefts. The surface appears to be puffy or cushioned and is also known as double cloth. Mercerization A process of treating a cotton yarn or fabric, in which the fabric or yarn is immersed in a caustic soda solution and later neutralized in acid. The process causes a permanent swelling of the fiber, resulting in an increased luster on the surface of the fabric, an increased affinity for dyes, and increased strength.

Melton A heavyweight, dense, compacted, and tightly woven wool or wool blend fabric used mainly for coats. Merino A type of wool that originates from purebred Merino sheep. The best Merino wool comes from Italy. Mesh A type of fabric characterized by its net-like open appearance, and the spaces between the yarns. Mesh is available in a variety of constructions including wovens, knits, laces, or crocheted fabrics. Metallic Fibre An inorganic fiber made from minerals and metals, blended and extruded to form fibers. The fiber is formed from a flat ribbon of metal, coated with a protective layer of plastic, which reduces tarnishing. Metal used in apparel fabric is purely decorative. Microfibres The name given to ultra-fine manufactured fibers and the name given to the technology of developing these fibers. Fibers made using microfiber technology, produce fibers which weigh less than 1.0 denier. The fabrics made from these extra-fine fibers provide a superior hand, a gentle drape, and incredible softness. Comparatively, microfibers are two times finer than silk, three times finer than cotton, eight times finer than wool, and one hundred times finer than a human hair.

Currently, there are four types of microfibers being produced. These include acrylic microfibers, nylon microfibers, polyester microfibers, and rayon microfibers. Micron A unit of measure that describes the average staple fiber diameter in a lot of wool. Over he past 30 years, the Micron measurement has evolved to become the predominant term used commercially to describe the fineness of a wool fiber. A Micron is determined by the actual measurement when the wool lots are tested for sale during wool processing. Most wool fibers range in the area of 18-40 micron. Merino wool falls into the 18-24 micron range. The 25-32 micron, medium range wool, is usually defined by the word "Shetland", and is used in such applications as blankets and knitwear apparel. The 33-40 range Micron usually describes the wool most often used in the carpet industry. Modal Made from spun Beechwood cellulose, the bio-based fibers create textiles that do not fibrillate, or pill, and are resilient to shrinking and fading. A fabric obtained from yarn made from the silky hair of the Angora goat.

Moiree A corded fabric, usually made from silk or one of the manufactured fibers, which has a distinctive water-marked wavy pattern on the face of the fabric. Muslin An inexpensive, medium weight, plain weave, low count (less than 160 threads per square inch) cotton sheeting fabric. In its unfinished form, it is commonly used in fashion design to make trial garments for preliminary fit. N Nainsook A lightweight plain weave cotton fabric, usually finished to create a luster and a soft hand. Common end-uses are infants' wear, blouses, and lingerie. Nap A fuzzy, fur-like feel created when fiber ends extend from the basic fabric structure to the fabric surface. The fabric can be napped on either one or both sides. An open fabric, which is created by connecting the intersections in a woven, knitted, or crocheted construction to form a mesh-like appearance that won't ravel. End-uses include veils, skirts O Organdy A stiffened, sheer, lightweight plain weave fabric, with a medium to high yarn count, often made from cotton. End-uses include blouses, dresses, and curtains/draperies.

A crisp, sheer, lightweight plain weave fabric, with a medium to high yarn count , made of silk, rayon, nylon, or polyester. The fabric is used primarily in evening and wedding apparel for women. Ottoman A tightly woven plain weave ribbed fabric with a hard slightly lustered surface. The ribbed effect is created by weaving a finer silk or manufactured warp yarn with a heavier filler yarn, usually made of cotton, wool, or waste yarn. In the construction, the heavier filler yarn is completely covered by the warp yarn, thus creating the ribbed effect. End uses for this fabric include coats, suits, dresses. Oxford A fine, soft, lightweight woven cotton or blended with manufactured fibers in a 2 x 1 basket weave variation of the plain weave construction. The fabric is used primarily in shirtings. P A tear-drop shaped, fancy printed pattern, used in dresses, blouses, and men's ties. Panne Velvet A type of lustrous, lightweight velvet fabric, usually made of silk or a manufactured fiber, in which the pile has been flattened in one direction.

Pile Weave A type of decorative weave in which a pile is formed by additional warp or filling yarns interlaced in such a way that loops are formed on the surface or face of the fabric. The loops may be left uncut, or they may be cut to expose yarn ends and produce cut pile fabric. A medium-weight fabric, either knit or woven, with raised dobby designs including cords, wales, waffles, or patterns. Woven versions have cords running lengthwise, or in the warp direction. Knitted versions are double-knit fabric constructions, created on multi-feed circular knitting machines. Plain Weave A basic weave, utilizing a simple alternate interlacing of warp and filling yarns. Any type of yarn made from any type of fiber can be manufactured into a plain weave fabric. A portion of the fabric folded over, and secured by stitching or pressing. Plissee A lightweight, plain weave, fabric, made from cotton, rayon, or acetate, and characterized by a puckered striped effect, usually in the warp direction. The crinkled effect is created through the application of a caustic soda solution, which shrinks the fabric in the areas of the fabric where it is applied.

Plissee is similar in appearance to seersucker. End-uses include dresses, shirtings, pajamas, and bedspreads. Peau de Soie A soft and finish silk fabric of satin weave appearance. It is a French term which literally means "skin of silk". Plaid A cloth having a crisscross design. The stripes in warp and weft directions cross at intervals to form different colors in square or rectangular patterns. It may be plain or twill weave. Polyester /microfiber A man-made fiber where the forming substance is any synthetic polymer. It has high strength and are resistant to shrinking and stretching. It is also wrinkle resistant. Polymer A high molecular weight structure, which makes up the substance from which manufactured fibers are produced. The fiber is created by linking together the chain-like molecular units called monomers. Pongee The most common form is a naturally colored lightweight, plain weave, silk-like fabric with a slubbed effect. End-uses include blouses, dresses, etc. Poplin A fabric made using a rib variation of the plain weave. The construction is characterized by having a slight ridge effect in one direction, usually the filling.

Poplin used to be associated with casual clothing, but as the "world of work" has become more relaxed, this fabric has developed into a staple of men's wardrobes, being used frequently in casual trousers. Q Quilting A fabric construction in which a layer of down or fiberfill is placed between two layers of fabric, and then held in place by stitching or sealing in a regular, consistent, all-over pattern on the goods. R Ramie A bast fiber, similar to flax, taken from the stalk of a plant grown in China. Rayon A manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose, derived from wood pulp, cotton linters, or other vegetable matter. Today, various names for rayon fibers are taken from different manufacturing processes. The two most commonly used production methods for rayon are the ammonium process and the viscose process. S Sailcloth Any heavy, plain-weave canvas fabric, usually made of cotton, linen, polyester, jute, nylon, etc. that is used for sails and apparel (i.e. bottomweight sportswear). The soft peachskin finish obtained by blasting a fabric with fine sand.

Sateen Fabric A fabric made from yarns with low luster, such as cotton or other staple length fibers. The fabric has a soft, smooth hand and a gentle, subtle luster. Sateen fabrics are often used for draperies and upholstery. Satin Fabric A traditional fabric utilizing a satin weave construction to achieve a lustrous fabric surface.The basic type of weave is up of eight weft threads that are tied down With one floating weft thread. It is light to medium-weight with a glossy face and a dull back. Satin is a traditional fabric for evening and wedding garments. Typical examples of satin weave fabrics include: slipper satin, crepe-back satin, faille satin, duchess satin, moleskin, and antique satin. Schiffli Embroidery Originated in Switzerland, the word, Schiffli, means "boat", identifiable with the boat-shaped shuttle used in the frame. The lace effect is made by embroidering the motifs on a net ground. Selvage or Selvedge The thin compressed edge of a woven fabric which runs parallel to the warp yarns and prevents raveling. It is usually woven, utilizing tougher yarns and a tighter construction than the rest of the fabric.

Serge- one of the oldest fabric names, derived from the Latin serica which implies that this was once a silk fabric. Today is implies a hard wearing worsted cloth with a twill weave. Usually has a smooth face although tends to shine with wear due to hard twist and compact weave structure. Holds a crease well. Serge de Sattin - a mohair cloth. Shantung Dupioni Originally a spun silk fabric with slubs and forms interesting textures. Today, shantung may be of natural or synthetic fibers. Sharkskin A hard-finished, low lustered, medium-weight fabric in a twill-weave construction. It is most commonly found in men's worsted suitings; however, it can also be found in a plain-weave construction of acetate, triacetate, and rayon for women's sportswear. A cloth with a warp of one colour and weft of another. Silk A natural filament fiber produced by the silkworm in the construction of its cocoon. Most silk is collected from cultivated worms; Tussah silk, or wild silk, is a thicker, shorter fiber produced by worms in their natural habitat. All silk comes from Asia, primarily China.

Similar in appearance to organza, gazar is somewhat stiffer and has a looser weave. It was developed and popularized by Cristobal Balenciaga, and is favored for its light weight and attractive translucency. This blended, twill weave fabric has a beautiful heavy drape and an elegant luster. It is frequently made into gowns with an architectural stiffness because it holds its shape. Mikado satin is its synthetic cousin. Solution-dyed A type of fiber dyeing in which colored pigments are injected into the spinning solution prior to the extrusion of the fiber through the spinneret. Fibers and yarns colored in this manner are color-fast to most destructive agents. Spandex Fiber A manufactured elastomeric fiber that can be repeatedly stretched over 500% without breaking, and will still recover to its original length. Surah A light weight, lustrous twill weave constructed fabric with a silk-like hand. Surah is the fabric of ties, dresses, and furnishings. It is available in silk, polyester, and rayon. T Taffeta A lustrous, medium weight, plain weave fabric with a slight ribbed appearance in the filling (crosswise) direction.

For formal wear, taffeta is a favorite choice. It provides a crisp hand, with lots of body. Silk taffeta gives the ultimate rustle, but other fibers are also good choices. Tapestry A heavy, often hand-woven, ribbed fabric, featuring an elaborate design depicting a historical or current pictorial display. The weft-faced fabric design is made by using colored filling yarns, only in areas where needed, that are worked back and forth over spun warp yarns, which are visible on the back. End-uses include wall hangings and upholstery. Tencel A fabric made from the cellulose of wood pulp, then processed into a silk-like fabric that is very soft with great drape. It's usually a medium weight fabric that can be easily dyed and cared for. Triacetate A manufactured fiber, which like acetate, is made by modifying cellulose. However, even more acetate groups have been added to create this fiber. Triacetate is less absorbent and less sensitive to high temperatures than acetate. It can be hand or machine washed and tumble dried, with relatively good wrinkle recovery. A lightweight, extremely fine, machine-made netting, usually with a hexagon shaped mesh effect.

End-uses include dance costumes and veils. A coarse, rugged, and often nubby woolen fabric in plain balanced or variation (originally twill) weave. Used as casual suits and coats. Twill Weave A basic weave in which the fabrics are constructed by interlacing warp and filling yarns in a progressive alternation which creates a diagonal effect on the face, or right side, of the fabric. In some twill weave fabrics, the diagonal effect may also be seen clearly on the back side of the fabric. Twist A term that applies to the number of turns and the direction that two yarns are turned during the manufacturing process. The yarn twist brings the fibers close together and makes them compact. It helps the fibers adhere to one another, increasing yarn strength. The direction and amount of yarn twist helps determine appearance, performance, durability of both yarns and the subsequent fabric or textile product. Single yarns may be twisted to the right (S twist) or to the left (Z twist). Generally, woolen and worsted yarns are S-twist, while cotton and flax yarns are typically Z-twist.

Twist is generally expressed as turns per inch (tpi), turns per meter (tpm), or turns per centimeter (tpc). U Ultrasuede A synthetic fabric similar to suede, with a micro-fiber structure, that is stain resistant and durable. V Velour A closely napped fabric with a soft, velvet-like texture, used for clothing and upholstery. It includes some velvet, and all plush-pile surface cloths. A pile woven cotton, silk, and/or rayon fabric with a soft yet sturdy face. Very much like plush but with a shorter pile. The underside is plain. Velveteen A cotton cut-pile weave fabric, utilizing extra fill yarn construction, with either a twill or a plain weave back. The fabric is woven with two sets of filling yarns; the extra set creates the pile. Virgin Wool - New wool that has never been used before, or reclaimed from any spun, woven, knitted, felted, manufactured or used products. Viscose The most common type of rayon. It is produced in much greater quantity than cuprammonium rayon, the other commercial type.

Voile A light, plain-weave, sheer transparent fabric with tightly twisted yarns often having a stiff light finish. Available in novelty effects like pique stripes, printed patterns and plains. It is obtained from cotton, rayon, silk, or wool and used especially for making dresses and curtains. W Warp In woven fabric, the yarns that run lengthwise and is interwoven with the fill (weft) yarns. Waterproof A term applied to fabrics whose pores have been closed, and therefore, will not allow water or air to pass through them. Water Repellent A term applied to fabrics that have been treated with a finish which causes them to shed water, but are still air-permeable. In woven fabric, the filling yarns that run perpendicular to the warp yarns. Wool Usually associated with fiber or fabric made from the fleece of sheep or lamb. However, the term "wool" can also apply to all animal hair fibers, including the hair of the Cashmere or Angora goat or the specialty hair fibers of the camel, alpaca, llama, or vicuna. Worsted Fabric A tightly woven fabric made by using only long staple, combed wool or wool-blend yarns.

The fabric has a hard, smooth surface. Gabardine is an example of a worsted fabric. A common end use is men's tailored suits. Woven Fabric Fabrics composed of two sets of yarns. One set of yarns, the warp, runs along the length of the fabric. The other set of yarns, the fill or weft, is perpendicular to the warp. Woven fabrics are held together by weaving the warp and the fill yarns over and under each other. Y Yarn A continuous strand of textile fibers created when a cluster of individual fibers are twisted together. These long yarns are used to create fabrics, either by knitting or weaving. Zibeline Named after the zibeline animal of Siberia, this textile is a satin weave fabric made from the wool of cross-bred worsted yarns. Zibeline is napped, then steamed and pressed. It has a long, one-directional nape and is very sleek and shinywith a lustre finish. Also known as zibaline/mikado,it can also be woven in silk/wool or from pure silk.

1911 Encyclopædia Britannica/Yarn - Wikisource, the free online library 1911 Encyclopædia Britannica/Yarn 602272 1911 Encyclopædia Britannica , Volume 28 — Yarn YARN, [1] the name given to any textile fibre when prepared by the process of spinning for being woven into cloth. It is only in a few minor and exceptional cases, such as the weaving of haircloth or wire, that there is any making of fabrics without the previous spinning of yarn. But yarn is of the most diverse description, and its value varies in proportion to its lustre, its bleaching and dyeing properties, its fineness, strength, elasticity, uniformity of diameter, smoothness, suppleness and colour in its natural condition. Yarn is single, folded and fancy, and if twisted to the right it is called twist way, and if to the left, weft way, but those terms do not necessarily imply that the yarn is for either warp or weft. Single Yarn consists of fibrous matter as twisted together during the process of spinning.

If it is intended for warp it should be strong, elastic and smooth; if for weft it has less twist and is spongy. The raw material from which yarn is made has much to do with its appearance and value. Thus Cotton Yarn, although it varies from a soft spongy thread to a closely compacted one, is generally dull in appearance, soft, pliable and of but moderate strength and elasticity. Dulness in this material is not, however, a constant feature; when combed and gassed it is brighter than when simply carded, and when mercerized it assumes a high lustre. Cottonwaste Yarn is of two classes, both of low counts, and is made from the cotton wasted in the preparing, spinning and weaving operations: one from soft material that had not previously been spun; the other from hard threads which are broken up into separate filaments. The best grades of cotton have been spun into commercial threads, 588,000 yds. of which weigh 1 ℔, but for experimental purposes much finer threads have been spun. For yarn in more general use the range is up to 250,000 yds. per ℔.

When spun from soft waste it is up to 13,400 yds. per ℔, and from hard waste it is up to 2520 yds. per ℔. Linen Yarn is of two kinds, namely, Line and Tow. In their natural conditions both are stiff, inelastic and somewhat rough, but the method of spinning has much to do with their appearance. If spun wet they are more compact, smoother and brighter than when spun dry; yet line yarn is always stronger and better in these respects than tow, which is by comparison soft, full and hairy. Both bleach to a pure white, become lustrous and moderately soft. Exceptionally fine linen yarn contains 180,000 yds. per ℔, but the range of line yarn in general use is up to 60,000 yds. per ℔, and that of tow 10,000 yds. per ℔. Woollen Yarn is soft, spongy, hairy, elastic, moderately strong and possesses felting properties in a high degree; it bleaches indifferently but dyes readily.

It is spun into threads that range up to 15,000 yds. per ℔. Several kinds of waste yarn are spun from wool, such as Shoddy, Mungo and Extract, most of which are irregular, lustreless and only suitable for coarse counts, but they dye well. Shoddy is made from the liberated fibres of soft spun woollen threads and cloths that have not been felted. Mungo is made from the liberated fibres of hard spun woollen yarn, and felted cloths, while Extract is made from the woollen material contained in mixed goods, the vegetable fibrous matters from which have been destroyed by acids and heat. Worsted Yarn is made from combed wool, and is, as a consequence, uniform in diameter, lustrous, smooth, very elastic and strong. It is spun into threads that range up to 56,000 yds. per ℔. Silk is made into Net, Spun and Noil yarns, all of which are readily dyed.

Net Silk yields Organzine and Tram; both are, in proportion to diameter, the strongest and most elastic of textile threads, and are highly lustrous and smooth; but organzine is hard twisted and used for warp, while tram is slightly twisted and used for weft. They give a range up to 450,000 yds. per ℔. Spun Silk is made by combing and spinning the material wasted during the conversion of cocoons into fabrics; it is less lustrous and elastic than net silk, also weaker. Silk Noil is made from the fibres rejected by the comber during the making of spun silk, and is inferior in all respects to spun silk. Mixed Yarn is obtained by mixing and spinning different fibrous materials together; as cotton and wool, silk and ramie, and the proportions in which they are mixed vary from 10% to 80% of the most expensive fibre. The counts of single yarns made from different fibres are differently expressed, as are occasionally those spun in different districts from similar fibres.

Cotton yarns are based upon the number of hanks, of 840 yds., contained in 1 ℔; linen, upon the number of leas, of 300 yds., in 1 ℔; worsted, upon the number of hanks, of 560 yds., in 1 ℔. Wool is expressed in the West of England by the number of hanks, of 320 yds., in 1 ℔.; in parts of Yorkshire by the number of skeins, of 1520 yds., in 6 ℔; in some parts of the United States by the number of runs, of 1600 yds., in 1 ℔. Silk is expressed by the weight of 1000 yds. in drams; also by the weight, in deniers, of 476 meters, the denier being an Italian weight equal to 1 8533 part of 1 ℔; spun silk, by the number of hanks, of 840 yds., in 1 ℔.

Folded Yarn.—Yarn is folded to impart increased strength, elasticity and smoothness, and is used, both glazed and unglazed, for warp and weft in ordinary fabrics. It is also made for such special purposes as sewing, lace-making, crocheting and hosiery. The counts of these yarns are expressed according to the number of threads twisted together, as 2/50s, 3/60s; the former indicating that two threads of 50s, and the latter three threads of 60s, were twisted together to yield yarn of 25 hanks and 20 hanks per ℔ respectively; the count of the single yarn being invariably named in the cotton, linen, woollen and worsted trades. With spun silk the practice adopted is to name the count of the folded yarn; thus, 70/2 and 40/3 imply that two threads of 140s and three threads of 120s were respectively folded together. Sewing Cotton should be smooth and strong, and much of it is from two to six cord. When two or three cord, the doubling twist is in the opposite direction to that of the singles.

When more than three cord, it usually undergoes two twistings, the first in the same direction as the single threads, the second is in the opposite direction to, and more closely twisted than the first. Thus:—A six-cord thread is first folded and twisted two into one, then three strands of two fold are twisted into one; after which it is sized and polished. Lace Yarn should be strong, elastic, smooth and spun twist way in the singles, but doubled weft way. Crochet Yarn is bulky, elastic and has a corded appearance. It is twice doubled: the first time it is twisted in the opposite direction to the singles, the second time in the same direction as the singles. Hosiery Yarn is often a soft, bulky, single thread, but it is also folded, sometimes without being twisted, at other times it is slightly twisted. There are two types, namely, wool and silk, neither of which need be made from the fibres named. For the former a hairy surface is not objectionable, but the latter should be smooth, and may be gassed. Polished Yarn may be either single or folded, but it should be fully twisted and level.

It is bleached or dyed in hanks, immersed in size and polished with brushes while the size is moist. Fancy Yarn is made by twisting together threads of different counts, colours, materials or twistings, at regular or irregular tensions, and in the same or opposite directions. The effects thus produced are known in commerce under a great variety of names, of which the following are a few. Grandrelle is probably the one in greatest demand; it has a mottled effect which is due to uniformly twisting together two threads of different colours, but of approximately equal counts. In some cases the folding twist is slight, in others it is considerable. Mock Grandrelle presents a similar appearance to true grandrelle, but is made at the spinning machine by twisting together two rovings that are dyed in different colours.

Flaked Yarn has a cloudy appearance imparted to it, (a) by twisting a hard spun thread with a roving, which, at regular or irregular intervals is made thick and thin by drawing rollers; (b) by supplying, intermittently, during carding or spinning, tufts of extra fibre to a thread; or (c) as in Knickerbocker Yarn, by dropping small quantities of dyed fibres into two, similar or dissimilar, rovings at the spinning machine, or into two, similar or dissimilar, threads at the doubler. Corkscrewed Yarn has a spiral surface effect which may be produced in different ways, such as twisting threads together that differ in tension, in count and in the quantity or direction of the twist in the single threads. If a fine, hard spun, single or folded thread be twisted with a coarse, soft spun single, the coarse thread will wrap itself about the fine one and give a corrugated surface.

Chain, and other effects may be given by two foldings and twistings, if for the first doubling a coarse soft thread is twisted with a finer one having medium twist, and for the second a still finer thread is twisted with the twofold one, but in the opposite direction and with a different number of twists per inch. Gimp Yarn is spiral in structure and requires two doublings, the first to form a twofold spiral, then, at the second doubling, a fine tight thread is added. Knopped Yarn is formed by twisting together several strands, one of which is at intervals delivered in greater lengths than the others, in order to allow a loop to be made; the direction of twist in one single may differ from that in another. Curled Yarn is produced by twisting two supple threads round a longer and stiffer one, after which a fourth thread is added. A-level Applied Science/Colour Chemistry/Fibres/Cellulose - Wikibooks, open books for an open world A-level Applied Science/Colour Chemistry/Fibres/Cellulose Cellulose[ edit ] Cellulose is a polymer of glucose.

Cellulose(C6H10O5)n is a long-chain polymeric polysaccharide carbohydrate, of beta-glucose. It forms the primary structural component of green plants. The primary cell wall of green plants is made primarily of cellulose. History and applications[ edit ] Cellulose is found in all plant material. It is the most abundant form of living terrestrial biomass Template:Ref harvard . Cellulose is the major constituent of paper ; further processing can be performed to make cellophane]] and rayon, and more recently Modal, a textile derived from beechwood cellulose. Viscose is a very important fibre made out of cellulose and has been used for textiles since the beginning of the 20th century. Chemistry[ edit ] Cellulose monomers (β-glucose) are linked together through ß1→4 glycosidic bonds by condensation. This is in contrast to the α 1->4 glycosidic bonds present in other carbohydrates like starch. Cellulose is a straight chain polymer: unlike starch, no coiling occurs, and the molecule adopts an extended rod-like conformation.

In microfibrils, the multiple hydroxyl (OH-) groups on the glucose residues hydrogen bond with each other, holding the chains firmly together and contributing to their high tensile strength. This strength is important in cell walls, where they are meshed into a carbohydrate matrix, helping keep plant cells rigid. Derivatives[ edit ] The hydroxyl groups of cellulose can be partially or fully reacted with various chemicals to provide derivates with useful properties. Cellulose esters and cellulose ethers are the most important commercial materials. In principle, though not always in current industrial practice, cellulosic polymers are renewable resources. Among the esters are cellulose acetate and triacetate , which are film- and fibre-forming materials that find a variety of uses. Cotton[ edit ] Cotton ready for harvest. Photo courtesy of USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service. Cotton is a soft fibre that grows around the seeds of the cotton plant (Gossypium spp.), a shrub native to the tropical and subtropical regions. The fibre is most often spun into thread and used to make a soft, breathable textile, which is the most widely used natural-fibre cloth in clothing today.

Cotton fibre (once processed to remove seeds and traces of wax, protein, etc.) consists of nearly pure cellulose , a natural polymer. The cellulose is arranged in a way that gives cotton fibres a high degree of strength, durability, and absorbency. Each fibre is made up of twenty to thirty layers of cellulose coiled in a neat series of natural springs. When the cotton boll (seed case) is opened the fibres dry into flat, twisted, ribbon-like shapes and become kinked together and interlocked. This interlocked form is ideal for spinning into a fine yarn. Uses of cotton[ edit ] File:Cotton towels.jpg Cotton bath towels Cotton is used to make a number of textile products. These include terrycloth, used to make highly absorbent bath towels and robes, denim, used to make blue jeans, chambray, popularly used in the manufacture of blue work shirts (from which we get the term "blue-collar"), along with corduroy, seersucker, and cotton twill. Socks, underwear, and most T-shirts are made from cotton. Bed sheets are also often made from cotton. Cotton is also used to make yarn used in crochet and knitting.

While many fabrics are made completely of cotton, some materials blend cotton with synthetic or processed fibres such as polyester or rayon . In addition to the textile industry, cotton is used in fishnets, coffee filters, tents and in bookbinding. The first Chinese paper was made of cotton fibre, as is the modern US dollar bill and federal stationery. Fire hoses were once made of cotton. Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread mostly employed to give cotton a lustrous appearance. The series of processes was devised by John Mercer in the middle of the 19th century. Mercerised cotton is sometimes referred to in the crafts as pearl or pearle cotton. It is cotton yarn or fabric which has been put through a series of processes, primarily to increase lustre. The added desirable water handling properties gained are a secondary bonus. Cotton thread (or cotton-covered thread with a polyester core) is treated with sodium hydroxide (caustic soda, NaOH). The thread is given a caustic soda bath that is then neutralised with an acid bath. This treatment increases strength, lustre, affinity to dye and resistance to mildew, and also reduces lint. Long staple fibre lengths respond best to mercerisation.

References and further reading[ edit ] The Thames and Hudson Manual of Dyes and Fabrics, Joyce Storey, 1978 Rayon is a manufactured regenerated cellulosic fibre. Cellulose is treated with alkali and carbon disulphide to yield viscose. History of rayon[ edit ] Rayon was the first fibre to be manufactured; it is produced from naturally occurring polymers and therefore it is not a synthetic fibre, but a manufactured regenerated cellulosic fibre. The fibre was sold as artificial silk until the name "rayon" was adopted in 1924. In Europe it is known as "viscose". [1] . Major fibre properties of rayon[ edit ] Rayon is a very versatile fibre and has the same comfort properties as other natural fibres and can imitate the feel and texture of silk, wool, cotton and linen. The fibres are easily dyed in a wide range of colours. Rayon fabrics are soft, smooth, cool, comfortable, and highly absorbent, but do not insulate body heat making them ideal for use in hot and humid climates [2] .

The durability and appearance retention of regular rayon are low, especially when wet; also rayon has the lowest elastic recovery of any fibre. However, HWM rayon is much stronger and exhibits higher durability and appearance retention. Recommended care for regular rayon is dry-cleaning only, HWM Rayon can also be machine washed [1] . Producers of rayon[ edit ] Trade names are used within the rayon industry to determine the type of rayon used. Bemberg, for example, is a trade name for cuprammonium rayon that is only produced in Italy due to EPA regulations in the US [3] . MODAL is a widely used form of rayon produced by Lenzing Fibres Corp. which is based out of northern Austria [4] . Galaxy, Danufil, and Viloft are rayon brands produced by Kelheim Fibres, a German manufacturer. [5] Acordis is a major manufacturer of cellulose based fibres and yarns. Production facilities can be found throughout Europe, the U.S. and Brazil [6] . Visil rayon is a flame retardant form of viscose which has silica built into the content of the fibre during manufacturing. [7] .

Uses of rayon[ edit ] Some major Rayon fibre uses include apparel (e.g. blouses, dresses, jackets, lingerie, linings, suits, ties), furnishings (e.g. bedspreads, blankets, window treatments, upholstery, slipcovers), industrial uses (e.g. medical surgery products, non-woven products, tire cord), and other uses (e.g. feminine hygiene products) [8] . References[ edit ] ↑ a b Textiles, Ninth Edition by Sara J. Kadolph and Anna L. Langford. Upper Saddle River, NJ: Prentice Hall ↑ Classifications & Analysis of Textiles: A Handbook by Karen L. LaBat, Ph.D. and Carol J. Salusso, Ph.D. University of Minnesota, 2003 Triacetate[ edit ] Triacetate also known as 'cellulose triacetate', is manufactured from cellulose and acetate. Triacetate is typically used for the creation of fibres and film base.

It is similar chemically to cellulose acetate, with the distinguishing characteristics being that in triacetate, according to the Federal Trade Commission definition, at least "92 percent of the hydroxyl groups are acetylated". During the manufacture of triacetate the cellulose is completely acetylated whereas in regular cellulose acetate or cellulose diacetate, it is only partially acetylated. Triacetate is significantly more heat resistant than cellulose acetate. Production of triacetate[ edit ] Triacetate is derived from cellulose by combining cellulose with acetate from acetic acid and acetic anhydride. The cellulose acetate is dissolved in a mixture of dichloromethane and methanol for spinning. As the filaments emerge from a spinneret, the solvent is evaporated in warm air, in a process known as dry spinning, leaving a fibre of almost pure triacetate. A finishing process called S-Finishing or surface saponification is sometimes applied to acetate and triacetate fabrics using a sodium hydroxide solution. This removes part or all of the acetyl groups from the surface of the fibres leaving them with a cellulose coating.

This reduces the tendency for the fibres to acquire static. Cellulose acetate[ edit ] Cellulose acetate is the acetate ester of cellulose. Cellulose acetate is used as a film base in photography, and as a component in some adhesives; it is also used as a synthetic fibre. Acetate Fibre and Triacetate Fibre[ edit ] Acetate and Triacetate are mistakenly referred to as the same fibre, although they are similar, their chemical compounds differ. Triacetate is known as a generic description or primary acetate containing no hydroxyl group. Acetate fibre is known as modified or secondary acetate having a few hydroxyl groups. Triacetate fibres, although no longer produced in the United States, contain a higher ratio of acetate-to-cellulose than do acetate fibres[1]. Fibre[ edit ] Cellulose acetate or acetate rayon fibre (1924) is one of the earliest synthetic fibres and is based on cotton or tree pulp cellulose ("biopolymers").

These "cellulosic fibres" have passed their peak as cheap petro-based fibres ( nylon and polyester ) and have displaced regenerated pulp fibres. Fibre Properties[ edit ] Acetate is a very valuable manufactured fibre that is low in cost and has good draping qualities. Properties of acetate have promoted it as the “beauty fibre”[1]. Acetate is used in fabrics such as satins, brocades, and taffetas to accentuate luster, body, drape and beauty.

Hand: soft, smooth, dry, crisp, resilient Comfort: breathes, wicks, dries quickly, no static cling Drape: linings move with the body linings conform to the garment Colour: deep brilliant shades with atmospheric dyeing meet colourfastness requirements Luster: light reflection creates a signature appearance Performance: colourfast to perspiration staining, colourfast to dry cleaning, air and vapor permeable Tenacity: weak fibre with breaking tenacity of 1.2 to 1.4 g/d; loses strength when wet Environmentally friendly: made from wood pulp of reforested trees Abrasion: poor resistance Heat retention: poor thermal retention; no allergenic potential (hypoallergenic) Dyeability: (two methods) cross-dying method where yarns of one fibre and those of another fibre are woven into a fabric in a desired pattern; solution-dying method provides excellent colour fastness under the effects of sunlight, perspiration, air contaminants and washing [1,2] Acetate usually requires dry cleaning. Production[ edit ] The Federal Trade Commission definition for acetate fibre is "A manufactured fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is cellulose acetate.

Where not less than 92 percent of the hydroxyl groups are acetylated, the term triacetate may be used as a generic description of the fibre." Acetate is derived from cellulose by deconstructing wood pulp into a purified fluffy white cellulose . The cellulose is then reacted with acetic acid and acetic anhydride in the presence of sulfuric acid . It is then put through a controlled, partial hydrolysis to remove the sulfate and a sufficient number of acetate groups to give the product the desired properties. The anhydroglucose unit is the fundamental repeating structure of cellulose and has three hydroxyl groups which can react to form acetate esters . The most common form of cellulose acetate fibre has an acetate group on approximately two of every three hydroxyls. This cellulose diacetate is known as secondary acetate, or simply as "acetate". After it is formed, cellulose acetate is dissolved in acetone into a viscose resin for extrusion through spinnerets (which resemble a shower head). As the filaments emerge, the solvent is evaporated in warm air via dry spinning, producing fine cellulose acetate fibres. First U.S.

Commercial Acetate Fibre Production: 1924, Celanese Corporation Current U.S. Acetate Fibre Producers: Celanese Acetate, Eastman Chemical Company 1) Purified cellulose from wood pulp or cotton linters 2) Mixed with glacial acetic acid, acetic anhydride, and a catalyst 3) Aged 20 hours- partial hydrolysis occurs 4) Precipitated as acid-resin flakes 5) Flakes dissolved in acetone 6) Solution is filtered 7) Spinning solution extruded in column of warm air. Solvent recovered 8) Filaments are stretched and wound onto beams, cones, or bobbins ready for use [1] Celanese (forms produced: flake and tow)--*Celanese Acetate Celstar--*Celanese Acetate made from a renewable resource: reforested trees.

can be composted or incinerated can be dyed, however special dyes and pigments are required since acetate does not accept dyes ordinarily used for cotton and rayon (this also allows cross-dyeing) resistant to mold and mildew easily weakened by strong alkaline solutions and strong oxidizing agents. can usually be wet cleaned or dry cleaned and generally does not shrink Major industrial acetate fibre uses[ edit ] apparel: linings, blouses, dresses, wedding and party attire, home furnishings, draperies, upholstery and slip covers high absorbency products: nappies, feminine hygiene products, cigarette filters, surgical products, and other filters Ink reservoirs for fibre tip pens, industrial fabrics, holiday [5] Paper[ edit ] Piece of paper Paper is a thin, flat material produced by the compression of fibres. The fibres used are usually natural and composed of cellulose. The most common source of these kinds of fibres is wood pulp from pulpwood trees, (largely softwoods) such as spruce. However, other vegetable fibre materials including cotton], hemp, linen, and rice may be used.

Question: What name is given to the treatment of cotton or linen to give it the appearance of silk?
Answer: Mercerisation