1. – Ngā manu – birds – Te Ara Encyclopedia of New Zealand ‘Rangiaeata’ In traditional Māori thought, many birds were seen as chiefly. The feathers of certain birds were used as adornment for high-born people – particularly plumes worn in the hair. Chiefs wore the kahu huruhuru (feather cloak), made from the feathers of the most beautiful birds. Huia The huia, extinct since the early 20th century, had black tail feathers with white tips, which high-ranking people wore in their hair. The group of 12 feathers from a huia’s tail, usually still joined at the base, was called a mareko, and was worn by high chiefs going into battle. Huia feathers were kept in a carved wooden chest called a waka huia. The male huia had a straight beak, while the female’s was curved. One story explains its origin. A chief found a female huia in a trap, and plucked two tail feathers as plumes. He enchanted the bird so she would return when he needed more plumes. One time she arrived with feathers ruffled from sitting on her nest.

Annoyed, the chief gave her a long, curved beak so she could reach her tail feathers and lift them out of the way. Kākā The kākā, a cheeky parrot, had red feathers under its wings. Māori associated the colour red with high rank, and only high-status people wore cloaks made with kākā feathers. Kākā were kept as pets, and were often used as decoys when fowling. The kākā has a loud, harsh call, so Māori describe talkative people as big-mouthed kākā (he kākā waha nui) or kākā heads (he pane kākā). Kākāpō The kākāpō, a flightless nocturnal parrot, was used for food, and its beautiful yellow-green and brown feathers were used to make cloaks for high-born people. Kākāpō also made good pets. Kererū (wood pigeon) The kererū’s colourful feathers were used to make cloaks. Their tail feathers adorned tahā huahua and pātua – containers for holding preserved birds.

In one tradition, the kererū’s feathers were originally white. The legendary trickster Māui wanted to find out where his mother, Taranga, went during the day. He hid her skirt to delay her, but she left anyway. Māui changed into a white kererū to follow her, still holding the skirt, which became the bird’s beautiful multicoloured plumage. The kererū was also a valued food source. Kiwi The kiwi was known as ‘te manu huna a Tāne’, the hidden bird of Tāne (god of the forest), because it came out mostly at night and was seldom seen. Kiwi meat was considered fit for chiefs. Their feathers were woven into rare, beautiful cloaks called kahu kiwi, which were considered taonga (treasures). The cloaks are used on special ceremonial occasions, such as the tangi (funeral) in August 2006 of the Māori queen, Te Arikinui Dame Ātairangikaahu.

Kōtuku (white heron) The regal-looking kōtuku appears in a well-known whakataukī (saying), ‘He kōtuku rerenga tahi’ (a white heron of a single flight). This can refer to a distinguished visitor who visits only rarely. Long plumes from the kōtuku’s broad wings, called piki kōtuku, were prized as head ornaments by people of high rank. Tākapu (gannet) Tākapu were valued for their white down and plumes. The plumes were used as hair adornments, and the soft belly feathers were made into pōhoi – feather balls worn in the ear by men and women of rank. Tara (tern) Māori associate tara with high status because of the birds’ beauty and grace. A group of chiefs might be honoured or praised as ‘he tāhuna ā-tara’ – a sand bank of terns.

Island feathers The tail feathers of the huia, the dorsal plumes of the kōtuku, and a full headdress of albatross feathers were all known as ‘te rau o Tītapu’ (the feathers of Tītapu). Tītapu was said to be an island in Cook Strait that was visited by albatrosses, but has since sunk beneath the sea. Toroa (albatross) The toroa’s prized white feathers were worn on important occasions by leading men. Toroa feathers used as plumes are known as raukura or kaiwharawhara. Soft feathers from the belly were made into pōhoi toroa – feather ball earrings. Tūī Tūī imitate the songs of other birds, and can also imitate people. The birds were sometimes tamed and taught to speak. They were taught mihi (greetings) which they would recite when visitors arrived, as well as prayers and proverbs. They were often trained to sound like the loud and deep voice of a chief. A tūī that spoke like this was called a manu rangatira – a chiefly bird.

Sometimes a tūī was named after a tribe’s famous ancestor, and kept by the chief. What does adornment mean?

definition, meaning and audio pronunciation (Free English Language Dictionary) decoration ; ornament ; ornamentation (something used to beautify) Hyponyms (each of the following is a kind of "adornment"): band ; banding ; stripe (an adornment consisting of a strip of a contrasting color or material) pectoral ; pectoral medallion (an adornment worn on the chest or breast) pendant ; pendent (an adornment that hangs from a piece of jewelry (necklace or earring)) plume (a feather or cluster of feathers worn as an ornament) pom-pom ; pompon (decoration consisting of a ball of tufted wool or silk; usually worn on a hat) rosette (an ornament or pattern resembling a rose that is worn as a badge of office or as recognition of having won an honor) diamante ; sequin ; spangle (adornment consisting of a small piece of shiny material used to decorate clothing) tassel (adornment consisting of a bunch of cords fastened at one end) passementerie ; trim ; trimming (a decoration or adornment on a garment) jewellery ; jewelry (an adornment (as a bracelet or ring or necklace) made of precious metals and set with gems

 (or imitation gems)) frontal ; frontlet (an adornment worn on the forehead) frog (a decorative loop of braid or cord) Feather adornment on stage | Iwi Art & Design Feather adornment on stage by admin Earlier last year Rob and I went on a road trip to Rotorua to go and check out their regional Kapahaka competitions.

I am never disappointed when I go and watch Kapahaka in Te Arawa. One thing that I’ve noticed, and which brings me to this blog, is the renaissance of feather pohoi (neck and ear adornment) on stage. One performer, in particular, who I believe is partly responsible for this revival is Mataia Keepa of Te Matarae I Orehu. Here pictured above he wears a kahu or hawk wing. Traditionally, the Toroa’s (Albatross) prized white feathers were worn on important occasions by leading men. Toroa feathers used as plumes are known as raukura or kaiwharawhara. Soft feathers from the belly were made into pōhoi toroa – feather ball earrings. There is also the pōhoi Huia, an ornament made from the skin of the Huia, which was highly valued. The bird was skinned with the beak, skull and wattles attached, while the legs and wings were removed. The skin was dried and the resulting pōhoi ornament was worn from the neck or ears.

Next month Te Matatini - New Zealand’s national kapa haka competition and premiere Maori cultural performing arts festival will be held in Rotorua. For more infomation go to Photo care of Mataia Keepa. This entry was posted in Uncategorized by admin . Bookmark the permalink . Patent US3362417 - Feather article for adornment of the human eye and methods of producing same - Google Patents Feather article for adornment of the human eye and methods of producing same US 3362417 A Description (OCR text may contain errors) Jan. 9, 1968 F. E. c; SER 3, FEATHER ARTICLE R A 0 N T THE HUMAN EYE AND MET 5 0? PR C SAME v 5 Sheets-Sheet 1- Filed March 18, 1965 Jan. 9, 1968 Y F. E.

GLA R 3,362,417 , FEATHER ARTICLE FOR ADOR NT OF THE HUMAN EYE AND METHODS OF PRODUCING SAME S Filed March 18, 1965 eats-Sheet 2 x Z reamc/zlzZwer' fiery???" eets-Sheet 3 Jan. 9, 1968' I i F. E.

GLASER 3,3 ,417 FEATHER ARTICLE FOR ADORNMENT OF THE HUMAN EYE AND METHODS OF PRODUCING SAME Filed March 178, 1965 V W 5 -m 56 I United States Patent 3,362 417 FEATHER ARTICLE FOR ADORNMENT OF THE HUMAN EYE AND METHODS OF PRODUCING ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE An article for attachment to the human eyelid for adornment of the human eye comprising a portion of a feather, exclusive of the shaft thereof, having a length sufficient to enable it to be attachedto a human eyelid and to substantially overlie the eyelashes of the eyelid, said portion consisting essentially of .a plurality of naturally arranged and integrated feather barbs which are anchored at a point along their length to a relatively nar row, thin, common, flexible support base formed from a rubbery material, such as an elastomer or resin, said feather barbs having a length substantially greater than that of the natural eyelashes of the human eyelid and a configuration to enable them to substantially mask the natural eyelashes of the human eyelid.

The common, flexible support base for the barbs is capable of conforming to the contours of the human eye in any position of the human eyelid, and serves to carry an adhesive material for attaching the article to the eyelid. The method of making the article involves applying a narrow, thin strip of a liquid adhesive substance across a portion'of the barbs at a point near the base thereof, allowing the adhesive substance to solidify into a flexible, substantially water-insoluble, continuous band, and then separating the adhesive substance-formed band, with the feather barbs anchored therein from the remainder of the feather. This application is a continuation-in-part of co-pending application Ser. No. 416,561, filed Dec. 7, 1964 and now abandoned. This invention relates to articles for adornment of the human eye and to methods of producing such articles. In particular, the present invention relates to articles for adornment of the human eye formed from feathers and to methods of producing such articles from feathers. The application of beauty aids to various areas adjacent the human eye has long been recognized as an important adjunct to the overall attractive appearance of a woman. One such aid in common use is the so called artificial eyelash.

Generally speaking, the objective sought in applying artificial eyelashes to the eyelid of the human eye is simply an exaggeration of the length and curvature of the natural eyelashes of the wearer. The coloring of each of the hair-like elements of a conventional set of artificial eyelashes is the same throughout and usually is darker than the color of the natural eyelashes of the wearer. These characteristics of conventional eyelashes impart a certain sameness to the eyes of women Wearing them and, except in those few instances where the eyes of the wearer have unusual natural beauty, often fall short of giving the wearer the distinctively attractive appearance desired. In accordance with the present invention, articles for adornment of the human eye are provided which enable the wearer to achieve effects not possible with conventional artificial eyelashes. Furthermore, from the standpoint of variability in coloring and size of the articles of this invention, the effects attainable are almost limitless and reduce to chance or accident the possibility of one wearer, in any given group, having the same, or 3,362,417 Patented Jan. 9, 1968 even a similar, article adorning her eyes as any other member of the group.

The objectives of the present invention are achieved by fabricating the articles from feathers or feather-like bodies in accordance with techniques thereafter described in detail. The coloring, lightweight, and the integrated, high strength characteristics of natural feathers make them particularly suitable for the purposes of this invention and, therefore, are especially preferred as a starting material. Artificial feathers, as well as feather-like bodies cast or molded from plastic, or the like, also can be utilized, but, from an esthetic standpoint, rank below natural feathers as base materials for producing the articles of this invention. Natural feathers, while differing in color, size, and shape, have certain structural characteristics in common. Thus, they generally consist of a rounded stem, or shaft, having a plurality of projections or barbs extending outwardly from both sides thereof. The distal part of the shaft is referred to as the rachis. The proximal part, or base, of the shaft is called the quill. Intermediate the rachis and the quill, the feather may have an aftershaft, or side branch. The aftershaft resembles a small feather springing from the main shaft at the proximal end of the rachis.

The barbs of the feather, in most instances, bear minute processes on each side which are called barbules. The barbules may, in turn, have small processes referred to as barbicels. To complete the structure, those bar-bicels which grow on the barbules directed toward the outer end of the feather frequently have small hook-like bodies, called hamuli, which attach themselves to the barbules of adjacent barbs thereby uniting the whole series of processes into a vane-like or web-like structure. The articles of the present invention, broadly, comprise a plurality of feather barbs arranged in side by side relation with their lower ends anchored or secured in one side of a common flexible support base. In accordance with the especially preferred aspects of this invention, the naturally-formed integrated, web-like arrangement of the barbs of a feather advantageously is preserved and exploited in fabricating the eye adornment articles, and the common base for the barbs is formed from a liquid elastomer or resin. In accordance with another aspect of the present invention, the articles comprise a plurality of feather barbs arranged as indicated having a common base constituted of a portion of the shaft of the feather.

The majority of the barbs in the embodiments of the articles of this invention desirably have a length substantially greater than that of the eyelashes of the eyelid and a shape or configuration which enables them to substantially mask the lashes of the eyelid to give the wearer a distinctively attractive appearance not attainable with conventional artificial eyelashes. Feathers from virtually any type of bird, including domestic fowl, can be utilized for the purposes of this invention. Particularly beautiful and exotic eifects are attained, for example, with the feathers of peacocks, pheasants and ostriches. The plumage of various tropical birds offers ahnost unlimited sources of materials for the ar ticles of the present invention. The feathers of domestic birds such as chickens, ducks and turkeys also can be used to advantage. Generally speaking, the feathers utilized in fabricating the articles will possess color characteristics which will impart a natural beauty to the articles defying duplication by conventional dyeing techniques. In the case of articles formed from ostrich plumes FIG. 1 is a view in perspective of the head of a model with a pair of articles, fabricated in accordance with the practices of the present invention, mounted on her eyelids; FIGS.

2 through 9, inclusive, are front views in elevation showing various embodiments of articles of the present invention mounted on an eyelid; FIG. 10 is a fragmentary side view in elevation of the head of a model with still another embodiment of the present invention mounted on her eyelid; FIGS. 11 and 12 are top plan views illustrating methods of fabricating the articles of the present invention from a feather; FIGS. 13 through 15, inclusive, are enlarged vertical sectional views illustrating a method of separating the shaft of a feather from the anchored barbs in forming the articles of the present invention; FIG. 16 is a view in perspective illustrating an embodiment of an article formed in accordance with one of the methods of this invention from a small feather; FIG. 17 is an enlarged top plan view illustrating a method of forming an article of the present invention from a portion of a feather; FIGS. 18 and 19 are top plan views illustrating still another embodiment of an article fabricated from a feather in accordance with the practices of the present invention; FIGS. 20 and 21 are views corresponding to the views of FIGS.

11 and 12 illustrating still another method of fabricating the eye adornment articles of this invention from feathers; FIGS. 22 through 24, inclusive, are enlarged views corresponding to the views of FIGS. 13 through 15, inclusive, showing various methods of forming the articles of this invention; and FIG. 25 is an enlarged top plan view of an article of this invention formed in accordance with the methods illustrated in FIGS. 20 through 24, inclusive. Referring, now, more particularly to FIGS. 11 and 12 of the drawings, there is shown a feather 10 comprised of a plurality of barbs 12 extending outwardly from each side of a shaft 14. In accordance with an especially preferred practice of the present invention, a number of matching eye adornment articles can be made from a feather such as feather 10 by applying a narrow strip or band 20 of a liquid elastomer or resin along the sides of the shaft 14 thereof for substantially the entire length of the feather.

The strips or hands 20 of the elastomer or resin need only be applied to one face of the feather and may be positioned directly adjacent each side of the shaft 14 of the feather, as shown on the left in FIG. 11 and in FIGS. 12 through 15, inclusive, or they may be positioned in spaced relation to the sides of the shaft 14, as illustrated on the right in FIG. 11. To avoid any appreciable increase in the weight of the articles, and so as not to detract from their appearance, the elastomer or resin desirably should not be applied too heavily and the bands 20 should not be too wide. Excellent effects are achieved with bands of the elastomer or resin having a thickness of the order of about & to about A inch, more or less, and a width of about to 4 inch, usually about A; to inch. By properly controlling or metering the amount of the elastomer or resin applied, the bands can be formed with a single application of the elastomer or resin. The bands 20 may be formed on the feather by any of various known techniques.

Exemplary of such techniques are brushing, spraying, roller coating, or continuous gravity-flow or applied pressure-flow application. After the elastomer or resin has been applied to the feather, it advantageously is dried or cured, whichever the case may be, in any manner known in the art. Following drying or curing of the elastomer or resin, the bands 20, with the barbs 12 anchored or secured therein, are separated from the shaft 14 of the feather. This conveniently may be accomplished by utilizing a cutting edge 22, as illustrated in FIGS. 13 and 14. The bands, together with the barbs, are then cut into suitable lengths to form the eye adornment articles. Generally speaking, while no additional trimming of either the bands or the barbs is necessary, the barbs may be formed into any shape desired by this means. Also, interesting and exotic effects can be attained by fabricating the articles of this invention from portions of elastomer or resin held barbs obtained from two or more differently colored and/ or shaped feathers, by adhering the portions together end to end. In FIGS.

16 and 17 there are illustrated eye adornment articles fabricated in accordance with the practice of the invention above described. The article 30, shown in FIG. 16, comprises a flexible base 32, formed of a portion of the band 20, having anchored therein a plurality of feather barbs 34 of substantially the same length constituted of the barbs 12 of the feather 10 located substantially centrally of the ends of the feather 10. The article 30 has a curvature which is normally present in forming the articles with the band 20 as described. The article 40, illustrated in FIG. 17, is formed from the barbs located at the tip of the feather 10, and comprises a flexible base 42, formed from a portion of the band 20, and barbs 44 of varying length. Still another method of forming articles of this invention is illustrated in FIGS. 18 and 19 of the drawing. In accordance with the practice of the invention there shown, a feather 50, having a rounded tip, is employed as a starting material.

Typical of feathers having such a shape are those obtained from peacocks and turkeys. In fabricating articles from such a feather, a narrow strip or band 52 of the elastomer or resin is applied across the bars 54 in transverse relation to the shaft 56. As before, after drying or touring the elastomer or resin, the band 52, together with the barbs 54 anchored therein, are removed from the remainder of the feather to provide a ready to-use article such as that illustrated in FIG. 9. The barbs 54 may be trimmed to any length desired and may have a curvature impressed upon them by simply draw-ing them across the edge of a knife blade or a cutting edge of a pair of scissons. The elastomers or resins having utility for the purposes of this invention advantageously should, when solidified, be substantially water-insoluble, flexible or pliable, and have moderate to low elongation characteristics.

While the present invention contemplates the use of pressure-sensitive adhesive materials to form the band or common base for the feather barbs, it is preferred partiouiarly from a handling and packaging standpoint, to utilize elastomeric or resinous materials which provide a band or *base having a dry, iron-tacky surface. Although the band or common base of the eye adornment articles of this invention, when attached to the eyelid of a wearer, will have minimal or no contact with the skin tissue of the eyelid, it is further desirable that the elastomeric or resinous materials employed be compatible with skin tissue. In view of the fact that the band or common base is, for all practical purposes, hidden when the eye adornment articles are being worn, the color of the elastomeric or resinous material used is not important. However, commercial considerations dictate the use "of elastomers or resins which provide a clear, or light colored, band or common base for the articles. The ela'stomers or resins employed in the practice of the present invention to attain the desired result may be selected from a wide group which includes water-based and solvent-based adhesives, as well as hot-melt adhesives.

The water-based and solvent-based adhesives may be used in the form of wateror organic-solvent solutions 'or dispersions or emulsions. Exemplary of water-based adhesives that can be used are water solutions or dispersions of me'thylcellulose and polyvinyl alcohol; natural or synthetic rubber latices made by emulsion polymerization including those made from natural rubber, 'butyl rubber, SBR rubber, styrenebutadiene, nitrile and chloroprene synthetic rubbers; urea-formaldehyde and phenol-formaldehyde resins; and vinyl acetate, acrylic, me'tha'crylic, vinyl chloride, vinylidene chloride and styrene emulsion polymer and copolymer synthetic resins. Solvent-based adhe'sives that can be employed include solvent solutions of the previously referred to natural and synthetic rub bers, and synthetic resins, in addition to polyvinyl ethers, polyamide, polyisobutylene, 'cyclized rubber, nitrocellulose, polyurethanes, and epox-ies.

Hot melt adhesives having utility in the invention includes petroleum waxes, high molecular weight polymers such as ethyl cellulose, cellulose acetate butyrate, and polyvinyl acetate. The foregoing adhesives, of course, may be modified by the inclusion of other ingredients to provide a band or flexible base for the articles of the present invention having the desired characteristics. Excellent results can be attained with an adhesive of the type described sold under the trade name DUO Surgical Adhesive (Johnson & Johnson). Referring again to the drawings, and in particular to FIGS. 20 through 25, inclusive, still another method of fabricating the eye adornment articles of the present invention is shown. In accordance with the practice of the invention there illustrated, a feather 60 is scored or cut with a knife or razor blade 62 along its shaft 64 to provide matching portions 66 -66 each having barbs 685 8 naturally integrally secured in flexible suporting bases 7070 constituted of a portion of the shaft 64.

The bases 7070 of the portions 66-6=6 desirably should have a length sufficient to enable articles formed from the portions 6 6 -66 to be attached to the eyelid of a wearer, and should, in addition, be sufficiently pliable to permit the articles generally to conform to the curvature impressed on the eyelid by the eye. In those instances where the stiffness of the bases 70-70 is too great after removal from the shaft 64, treatment with chemicals or hot water, for example, may be resorted to for the purpose of imparting the desired pliability to the bases. As with the previously discussed embodiments of the invention, interesting and exotic effects can be achieved by fabricating the articles from portions, of lesser length than the portions 66-66, obtained from two or more differently colored and/ or shaped feathers, and adhering them together end to end. In forming articles from a feather having a shaft of small cross-section by this practice of the invention, the shaft may be cut directly down its median or center line, as illustrated in FIGS. 22 and 23.

In forming the articles of this invention from the distal end or rachis of the shaft, or from a single, small feather having a very thin shaft, matching or mating articles are best fabricated by removing, as by mutting, the barbs completely from. one side of the shaft or rachis of one feather, and then performing a similar operation on a second feather of similar coloring and configuration. This technique is illustrated in FIG. 2A. As there shown, the thin shaft, or rachis 72, Whichever is the case, forms the base of one article and has barbs 74 secured to one side only thereof. The barbs 76 on the opposite side have been removed. FIG. 25 is an enlarged representation of an embodiment of an article fabricated from a single, small feather, or the distal end of a larger feather, by removal of the barbs completely from one side of the shaft. The base 78 of such an article is very pliable and readily can be made to conform to the curvature of the eyelid. The barbs 80', and their barbules 82, form an integrated network or Web which is highly resilient and long-lasting.

The Weight of the articles, whether formed from a single feather or a portion of a large feather, is almost negligible and, as a result, the articles, even though much larger from the standpoint of overall area than conventional artificial eyelashes, are just as comfortable to wear. The eye adornment articles of the present invention can be attached to the eyelid in any of various ways. To this end, a small quantity of a liquid adhesive material of the type commonly used in connection with ordinary artificial eyelashes can be applied by the user to one side of the support base of the articles and the article can then be secured in proper position on the eyelid. Alternatively, a narrow strip of a pressure-sensitive adhesive tape such as topee tape can be secured to the support base and the article then can be attached to the eyelid by means of the tape. As indicated hereinabove, in the embodiments of the invention wherein the shaft is not used as the support base, the support base can be made of a band of pressure-sensitive adhesive which would enable the articles to be attached to the eyelid directly, thereby eliminating the need for auxiliary adhesives or adhesive carrying materials.

The striking effects attainable With the articles of adornment of the present invention are clearly illustrated in FIGS. 1 through 10, inclusive. As can be seen from these figures, the articles of this invention tend to substantially mask the natural eyelashes of the wearer thereby providing an eye adornment which is not only markedly beautiful but distinctively individualistic. Colors and configurations can be selected at will to complement both the facial characteristics of the wearer as well as her clothes. Referring, now, in particular to FIGS. 1 through 10, FIG. 1 shows a model having articles -100, fabricated in accordance with the practice of this invention, attached to her eyelids 102-402. FIG. 2 illustrates an embodiment of an article 104 of this invention fabricated from a duck feather. FIG. 3 is an embodiment of an article 106 of this invention made from an ostrich feather. As shown, glitter 108, or shiny bits of metal foil, are adhered to the barbs as an accenting feature. FIG. 4 is anillustration of an embodiment of an article 110 made from a peacock plume, while FIG.

5 shows an article 112 fabricated from the end of a turkey feather. FIG. 6 is an illustration of another embodiment of an article 114 formed from an ostrich plume. The ends of the barbs 116 in this instance have had a curvature impressed on them to give the effect shown. FIG. 7 shows an article 118 formed from a peacock feather with rhinestones 120 attached thereto to provide an added glamorous effect. FIG. 8 shows another form of an embodiment of an article 122 made from a duck feather. The effect illustrated has been attained by trimming and separating the barbs 124 of the duck feather. FIG. 9 illustrates an embodiment of an article 126 formed from a chicken feather which has been trimmed and dyed. FIG. 10 is a profile representation of an embodiment of an article 128 of this invention, fabricated from an ostrich feather, and attached to the eyelid 130 of a wearer. The eyelashmasking effect attained with the unique articles of this invention is clear from this view as well as that of FIG. 1.

The embodiments of the articles of the invention shown in the drawings are presented by way of illustration and are not to be construed as limitative of the scope of the invention. It will be understood by those skilled in the art that the articles of this invention can be fabricated in a wide variety of colors, sizes and configurations without deviating from the spirit and scope of the present invention. What is claimed is: 1.

An article for attachment to the human eyelid for adornment of the human eye comprising a portion of a feather, exclusive of the shaft thereof, said portion having a length sufiicient to enable it to be attached to a human eyelid and to substantially overlie the eyelashes of the eyelid, said portion consisting essentially of a plurality of naturally arranged and integrated feather barbs, said barbs being anchored at a point along their length to a narrow, thin, common, flexible support base formed from a rubbery material and having a length substantially greater than that of the natural eyelashes of the eyelid and a configuration to enable them to substantially mask the natural eyelashes of the eyelid, said common base being capable of conforming to the contours of the eye in any position of the eyelid and serving to carry an adhesive material for attaching the article to the eyelid and having a length sufficient to enable the article to be attached to a human eyelid. 2.

An article for attachment to the human eyelid for adornment of the human eye comprising a portion of a feather, exclusive of the shaft thereof, having a length sufficient to enable it to be attached to a human eyelid and to substantially overlie the eyelashes of the eyelid, said portion consisting essentially of a plurality of naturally arranged and integrated feather barbs, said barbs being anchored at their base in a thin, narrow, flexible common support band formed of a substantially Waterinsoluble rubbery adhesive substance, the majority of said barbs having a length substantially greater than that of the natural eyelashes of the'human eyelid and a configuration to enable them to substantially mask the natural eyelashes of the eyelid, said common support band serving to carry an adhesive material for attaching the article to the eyelid and having a length suflicient to en able the article to be attached to a human eyelid. 3.

An article for attachment to the human eyelid for adornment of the human eye comprising a portion of a feather exclusive of the shaft thereof, said portion consisting essentially of a Web-like body of naturally arranged and integrated feather barbs and attendant processes, the barbs being anchored at their base in a flexible, common support strip of substantially the same length as said portion of the feather, the strip being formed of a substantially Water-insoluble rubbery adhesive substance selected from the group consisting of natural and synthetic rubbers, resins, and mixtures thereof, said strip having a Width of about inch to about inch and a thickness of about inch to about inch, said strip being capable of conforming to the contours of the eye in any position of the human eyelid and serving to carry an adhesive material for attaching the article to the eyelid, the majority of said barbs having a length substantially greater than that of the natural eyelashes of the eyelid and a configuration to enable them to substantially mask the natural eyelashes of the eyelid. 4.

A method of producing an article for adornment of the human eye comprising applying a narrow strip of a liquid adhesive substance across a portion of the barbs of a feather at a point proximal to the base of the barbs, said adhesive substance being capable when solidified on the barbs of forming a flexible, substantially water-insoluble, continuous band, solidifying the adhesive substance, and separating the adhesive substance formed band with the feather barbs anchored therein from the remainder of the feather. 5.

A method of producing an article for adornment of the human eye comprising placing on a'supporting surface a feather having a shaft and barbs extending outwardly from both sides of the shaft, applying a narrow strip of a liquid adhesive substance across the barbs of the feather on each side of the shaft of the feather, each of said strips extending substantially the entire length of the feather proximal to the shaft of the feather, said adhesive substance being capable when solidified on the barbs of forming a flexible, substantially water-insoluble, continuous band, solidifying the adhesive substance, separating the adhesive substance formed bands with the feather barbs anchored therein from the shaft of the feather, and cutting the separated bands with the barbs anchored therein into lengths sufficient to enable the eye adornment articles thus formed to be attached to an eyelid. 6. A method as claimed in claim 5 wherein the band formed by the liquid adhesive substance has a width of about inch to about A inch and a thickness of about inch to about inch. 7. A method as claimed in claim 5 wherein the liquid adhesive substance contains as the flexible band forming material an adhesive agent selected from the group consisting of natural and synthetic mbbers, resins, and mixtures thereof.

References Cited UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,421,432 6/1947 Phillips 1325 2,862,509 12/1958 Porte 132--53 FOREIGN PATENTS 21,418 1905 Great Britain. L. W. TRAPP, Primary Examiner. Patent Citations The Official Site of the Chickasaw Nation | Regalia Our Nation > Culture > Society > Regalia Regalia Prior to European contact, Chickasaws made their clothing from what they could gather from nature. This included animal skins and fabrics made from rough plant fibers that were woven together. After Chickasaws began trading with Europeans, newer fabrics were introduced. Over time, this clothing morphed into the traditional ribbon shirts and dresses. The ribbon dress is fashioned after European and settlers’ prairie dresses, which were popular across the plains in the 19th century. It usually takes an experienced ribbon dress maker anywhere from one to two days to complete a dress. The ribbons on the dresses and shirts are worn for adornment, but they might also show family or clan colors.

Regalia is something we wear for special occasions. Before European Contact Women's Clothing: Chickasaw women wore dresses made from skins sewed together with fishbone needles and deer sinews. In winter, they wrapped themselves in buffalo-calf skins with wintery shagged wool inward. The women made shoes for their families from skins of deer, bear and elk, carefully tanned and smoked to prevent hardening. The Southeastern style moccasin was very distinctive in that it was constructed with the seam at the top of the footwear. In earlier times, it was adorned with shells. Later, intricate beadwork was practiced in the decoration of moccasins. The woman in the lower Mississippi made ear ornaments out of the central parts of conch shells, which were shaped somewhat like railroad spikes, the heads serving to keep them from falling through. Chickasaw women gave much attention to their appearance, never forgetting to anoint and tie up their hair, except in time of mourning, and to bathe daily, except during periods of menstrual seclusion. Men's Clothing: The basic male garment was the breechcloth. The heat of summer, their only clothing was a shirt of dressed deerskin.

Long, shaggy garments of panther, deer, bear, beaver and otter skins, the fleshy side out, warmed them in winter. Hunters wore deerskin boots reaching to the thigh to protect against brambles and thorny thickets. There was a summer visiting dress that the Chickasaw people made of deer skins, which, because of its great length, might be considered a nightgown rather that a shirt. During cold weather, and when it was necessary to protect the lower limbs from contact with underbrush, skin garments which are usually called "leggings" were added. The lower borders of these were tucked under the upper edges of the moccasins, and the upper ends were usually carried high enough so that they could be fastened to the belt by means of straps. They were held in under the knee by means of ornamented bands called "garters." Moccasins were worn throughout the Southeast by the Indians when traveling, but at home, they went barefoot much of the time. Adair distinguishes between moccasins for common wear, made of bear or elk-skin, and those of deerskin for dress occasions.

The short skirt usually is made of animal skins and also of the feathers of turkeys and other birds. A cloak spun from the inner bark of the mulberry or from certain grasses was worn. The mantle was usually fastened over the shoulder so as to expose the right breast. Older men and young boys wore their hair long. The warrior hairstyle was to shave the sides of the head, leaving a roach or crest that the wearer soaked with bear grease. The men plucked all hair from their faces and bodies with tweezers, made in early times of clam shells and later, of wire. Chickasaw warriors painted their faces for ceremonies and war, the color and design indicating their clan association. They wore ear and nose ornaments and decorated their heads and shoulders with eagle feathers and a mantle of white swan feathers, the ultimate badge sought by every warrior. Most of the jewelry found at burial sites consisted of shell gorgets, ear spools, bracelets and anklets. Facial painting indicated the group of the wearer, but was only used on occasion of war. The Imosakica group of Chickasaws painted across and above the cheek bones, while the Intcukwalipa decorated only below the cheek bones.

Some Chickasaw men practiced the art of tattooing as well. After European Contact Women's Clothing: After traders brought cloth to the Chickasaw towns, Native women made a loose petticoat, fastened with leather belt and brass buckle that reached only to their hams or thighs in order to show their exquisitely fine-proportioned limbs. Like the men, women in more affluent families also adopted the style of clothing for the period. Large bustled dresses with parasols and soft satin slippers adorned the bodies of many mixed blood plantation ladies. The fashion conscious were adorned with beautiful jeweled necklaces, bracelets and rings in silver and gold. Grandly ornamented hats were also worn. At the time of Removal, most Chickasaw women were wearing what their white counterparts were wearing at the time. The average Chickasaw homemaker wore a "pioneer dress" made from cotton. An apron was worn for practical cooking purposes. Often, a woman would choose the color that represented her family for a dress that would be worn at ceremonial or special occasions. This dress would have ribbons sewn onto the yoke and on the wristbands. Ruffles were sewn onto the dress at the yoke and at the bottom hem.

Choctaw dresses usually featured two ruffles at the bottom, while Chickasaw dresses often had just one ruffle featured. Colorful rick-rack was sewn on Chickasaw dresses whenever it could be found. For ornamentation, Chickasaw women would decorate their dresses with silver brooches that featured long ribbons attached. These brooches would be fastened to the back of the dress, one on the left and the other on the right. These were attached approximately where the middle of the shoulder blades are found. Other silver brooches were added to the front of the dress along the yoke ruffle. A silver comb was often worn by Chickasaw women. This piece of adornment was decidedly Spanish in origin. Long ribbons were often attached to the combs which hung to the ankles of the wearer as well. Finger woven belts were also part of the Chickasaw woman's ceremonial attire. These colorful adornments were woven entirely by hand. In earlier times, the belts were made from hemp. Today, the hemp has been replaced with common knitting yarn. Finger woven belts are always worn with the tassels toward the fire while dancing.

Only a few Chickasaw people still practice the ancient craft of finger weaving today. The intricate beaded collars worn at the yoke of the dress were an adaptation of the style of necklace that was being worn by some European women at the time of contact. The Chickasaws took this style and incorporated it into their culture by constructing the piece with the newly acquired glass beads. This type of beadwork was practiced by many of the Southeastern tribal cultures. Another important ceremonial piece of attire for Chickasaw women was the shell shaker shackles. These musical leg ornaments were made out of terrapin turtle shells. (Today, many dancers make the shackles from small Pet milk cans.) A handful of small stones or pebbles was added to each shell or can. These stones were taken out of a running stream or river to ensure the wearer of keeping the rhythm of the song. Shoes worn were moccasins or black dress shoes. An old Southeastern story says that the turtle gave his shell to woman so that she would be able to dance. Another story tells women that they should always try to incorporate more female turtle shells into their shackles than male.

The reason for this was said to be that females do all the work, and the males were just along for the ride. Women never painted or adorned the shell shackles, which were worn on both lower legs. Dresses were short enough to allow for the shackles voice to be heard in their song. Chickasaw men and women at the time of Removal had adopted many of the social habits of European society. They wore their hair in similar fashion and dressed according to the fashion of the time period. However, certain aspects of their ancient culture continued to be represented in ceremonial attire. Men's Clothing: After coming in contact with the French, Spanish and English, trade goods exchanged were much different from what Chickasaws had known for centuries. Among the new items being offered for trade were cloth, silver, glass beads, head wear, manufactured boots and many other metallic ornaments and clothing staples. Chickasaw men began to slowly incorporate certain aspects of these "new and improved" clothing items into their apparel. Soon, many Chickasaw men were wearing trader's coats and pants, footwear, fur caps and cloth shirts. The Chickasaw turban was taken from French culture. In later years the turban was replaced by the common straw hat.

The accessories on the hat included a decorative band, deer-hair roach with eagle, hawk or turkey feather attached, white plume and a hat pin. A person's rank ceremonially was indicated by the type of feather worn and the addition of a bandolier for certain clan leaders. In more modern times, the straw hat has been replaced by the black felt cowboy hat by many Chickasaw men. The reason for this is uncertain. Silver gorgets and armbands were taken from the Spanish and English. Armbands were usually worn on the upper arm between the shoulder and elbow. The number of bars represented on the gorget indicated the power and position of the wearer. Tribal leaders and officials often wore gorgets with three or more bars. Ribbons adorned the shirts of men. This is thought to have derived from the importance ribbons played in the ancient Chickasaw pashofa ceremony. A finger woven belt was part of the standard attire of men who participated in ceremonial activities and dances. In earlier times, this belt represented a person with power and position. Its colors represented the colors of the clan or family of the wearer.

As the mixed blood faction of the tribe became more prominent politically and economically, these men began to emulate much of what their social counterparts from white society were wearing. The more affluent men, according to European standards, were dressed in the high fashion of the period. The Chickasaw Nation Dance Troupe has spent many hours researching and documenting ancient Chickasaw beliefs and customs. They have painstakingly recreated regalia which reflects an accurate account of how Chickasaws dressed for ceremonial purposes at the time of Chickasaw Removal. For more information about the Chickasaw Nation Dance Troupe, contact the Chickasaw Nation Cultural Resources Department at (580) 332-8685. References: Adair, James. The History of the American Indians. Ed. with an introduction by Samuel C. Williams. Johnson City, Tennessee, 1930. Swanton, John R. Social and Religious Beliefs and Usages of the Chickasaw Indians. Bureau of American Ethnology Forty fourth Annual Report. Washington, 1928. Gibson, Arrell M. The Chickasaws. University of Oklahoma Press, Norman, Oklahoma, 1987.

Eddie Postoak, Director of Cultural Resources and Dance Troupe member Last Updated: 12/12/2016

Question: Feather/s worn as an adornment is known as what?
Answer: Plume