Lansdowne Road Hotels - Hotels near Lansdowne Road Dublin Lansdowne Road Hotels UK line: 0141 270 2171 International: +44 141 270 2171 Email: sales@justonehotel.com Dublin - General Information River Liffey, Dublin The vibrancy of modern Dublin belies the fact that it has overcome two major upheavals to attain its present position as a trendy, stylish destination. The first and by far the greater was the Catholic Republic of Ireland’s long, bloody relationship with the United Kingdom and the Protestant enclave of Northern Ireland. The second – less immediately obvious – was the huge influx of funding from the EU towards the end of the last century. This earned the nation the nickname “Celtic Tiger.” But when it started to abate, many felt that Dublin would prove to have been propped up artificially, and would slip back into its old reactionary, inward looking ways. Happily, however, it has kept its newly acquired lustre by relying on its own ingenuity and resources – not to mention the considerable charm of its citizens.

Though the Irish economy may now be facing its first downturn in almost twenty years, Dublin looks set to remain a desirable destination. Dublin may not be laid out on the Imperial scale of London or Paris, but a stroll along the boulevards in the heart of the city will leave you in little doubt that it’s a place secure in its reputation as Europe’s westernmost great capital. Grafton Street is an excellent place to begin such a walk. It is presided over by the voluptuous figure of Molly Malone, an 18th century fishmonger (and, reputedly, part-time hussy) who died of fever and is Dublin’s unofficial heroine, commemorated in the ballad and the innumerable pubs that bear her name. Her statue, complete with barrow, is affectionately referred to by locals as the “tart with a cart.” Molly Malone After paying due respect to Molly, you’re ready to set off down Grafton Street itself. The thoroughfare has constant, cheerful bustle about it and is packed with shops, including the incomparable Brown Thomas (see shopping), and lots of traditional pubs. An especially enjoyable stopping off point is Bewley’s café.

Being such a celebrated Dublin institution, its invariably packed, but well worth seeing just for the beautiful, 19th century stained glass windows. Having refueled at Bewley’s, continue along hectic Grafton Street then stop off for a brief interlude of peace and quiet in the green spaces Trinity College, with its lovely neo-Classical and Venetian Gothic architecture. From here, stroll along College Green to Temple Bar. This area has earned a partly justified reputation for being infested on weekend evenings with stag and hen parties from the UK, reeling from pub to pub amongst equally inebriated locals. There are a good many somewhat artificial, “Oirish” pubs, in which Guinness, mahogany fittings and fiddle music figure prominently. But during the day the 18th century cobbled streets are saturated with history rather than alcohol: this is the area in which to find many of the city’s most imposing landmarks, including Dublin Castle, City Hall, Christ Church Cathedral and St Patrick’s Cathedral. Leaving Temple Bar, cross the smoothly flowing Liffey at O’Connell Street Bridge and continue onto O’Connell Street itself – Dublin’s other great thoroughfare.

In doing so you make the transition from the raffish, tourist-orientated side of the city to a more traditional, “official” aspect of it. This fact is attested to by the many statues of historical figures that line it, all of them very different from alluring Molly Malone. The first is of Irish patriot Daniel O’Connell, who lends the street its name. O’Connell Street is also home to further excellent shops (including the wonderfully grand Clery & Co), as well as the striking, 120 metre tall shard of brushed-stainless-steel called the Millennium Spire. It was designed by British architect Ian Ritchie and has been variously nicknamed "the Spike" and “the stiletto in the ghetto” by local wags. Though striking, it is somewhat out of place with the sense of genteel old Dublin that the rest of O’Connell Street conveys. This culminates perfectly in Parnell Square, with its lovely Georgian townhouses, Garden of Remembrance and fascinating Writers’ Museum. This itinerary is only one of the many pleasant walks you can take around the city – strolls around St Stephen’s Green and along North Quay are equally attractive.

But with its juxtaposition of the old and the new, the louche and the genteel, it captures the many layers of history that lie beneath the shiny, cosmopolitan surface of modern Dublin. Best Places to Visit in Ireland - Dublin | Planning a Trip to Dublin | Ireland travel and Tourism Dublin - South of the Liffey River The Dublin Tourism Centre located just south of the Liffey on Suffolk street is a good place to start your tour of Dublin. You will find an abundance of pamphlets, a booking service for a variety of tours, information on transport, schedules for musical events and a friendly and courteous staff. Located in the former St. Andrew's Church, the DTC is located right in the middle of the best of Dublin's sightseeing. After you have gathered the brochures of interest, head east on Suffolk Street to find the statue of Molly Malone at the intersection of Suffolk and Grafton Street. Molly is one of Dublin's icons.

Molly Malone, so the story goes, was a young, beautiful fishmonger who sold cockles and mussels from a cart that she pushed through the streets of Dublin She died young from a "fever" and her brief life was immortalized in the popular song known both as "Molly Malone" and "Cockles and Mussels". The revealing statue on Grafton Street portrays a buxom young Molly, perhaps because she was reputed to be a lady of the night, as well as a fishmonger. In turn, this may be why some of the locals refer to the statue as "the tart with the cart". Molly's song has become the unofficial anthem of Dublin. If you want to hear Molly Malone sung by the famous Irish folk singing group the Dubliners, click the video below. Grafton Street is one of Dublin's major shopping venues. Large sections have been "pedestrianized" and you will find a variety of good quality, fashionable stores, places to eat and drink, as well as a fair number of capable buskers (street entertainers) whose skills will add a little more "Irishness" to your touring.

Just to the east of Grafton Street, you will find historic Trinity College . Founded in the late 16th century, this was the first formal university in Ireland. Its charter, granted by Queen Elizabeth in 1592 established Trinity as a Protestant university. The deed conveyed an area outside Dublin's city walls including the grounds of an abbey closed by Henry VIII when he broke with the Church of Rome. The school grew over time and today Trinity College educates over 12,000 undergraduates and approximately 2,000 graduate students. See the Trinity College website for more details. If you are interested in historic, hand-created manuscripts, we recommend that you visit the Trinity College Old Library to see the Book of Kells. The Book of Kells is a beautifully illustrated, Latin manuscript that contains the four gospels created on vellum and, after it creation, bound in four volumes. The Book of Kells dates from the early 9th century and was created during what has become known as the "Dark Ages", a period in European history when written records were scarce and Western Civilization was in decline.

Many attribute the creation of this well-preserved manuscript, by Irish monks, to be a critical factor in continuity of the teachings of the Roman Catholic Church. The geographical origin of the Book of Kells is uncertain, although there is no dispute that Irish Monks created the significant manuscript. Many believe that the Book of Kells was created at Abbey of Kells in County Meath, while others believe that parts of the manuscript were created at the Iona Abbey on the Isle of Iona off the coast of Scotland. The manuscript was eventually sent to Dublin for safekeeping and given to Trinity College later in the 16th century. While the Book of Kells is a stunning work, the Trinity College Library (especially the Long Room) is quite attractive in its own right. For more information, see the web site of the Trinity College Library. Combo-tickets for the campus tour and entrance the Old Library and Book of Kells are available from the University. While in the area of Trinity College, we recommend you head south to Nassau Street, follow it as it changes to Leinster Street, then Clarke Street until you arrive at Merrion Square Park. Along the way, you will see many Georgian buildings and some of the best architecture in Dublin.

Once at Merrion Square, take in the statue of the recumbent Oscar Wide (he was raised on the Square at number 1). After this, spend your time walking through the area's showcase of Georgian architecture. William Butler Yeats lived at number 82 and Merrion Square was also home to Daniel O'Connell, the Liberator (for more information on O'Connell , see our section on North of the Liffey). Although most of the houses are now being used for offices, Merrion Square has a long and interesting history. To get the most of this area, we recommend taking a guided walk to get the inside scoop. If you have limited time, take a quick look at the colorful doors, fanlights and elegant entry portal hardware that can be seen on many of the Georgians in this area. In addition, you might want to take a gander at Fitzwilliam Square area, several blocks south of Merrion Square on Upper Fitzwilliam Street. Although a number of its Georgians no longer exist, this area was the source for many of the doors shown in the iconic poster "The Doors of Dublin".

If you want to see the interior of a classic Georgian, visit Number 29 - The Georgian House Museum on Upper Fitzwilliam Street to see a restored late 18th century Georgian house. (In case you are wondering why the Electricity Board is sponsoring this exhibit, it seems they knocked down 20 Georgians to build their headquarters and Number 29 was the "quid pro quo". Finally, you can find more Georgians surrounding St. Stephen's Green described at the bottom of the page in our shopping section.) While in this neighborhood (Merrion Square), you might want to visit the National Gallery of Ireland known for its fine collection of paintings and sculptures. The Gallery is currently one of the best values in Dublin, as entry is free. If you are interested in the history of Ireland, the National Museum has three locations in Dublin specializing in Archaeology and History (on Kildare Street), Decorative Arts and History (Collins Barracks) and Natural History (Merrion Street, but currently closed until further notice). For more information, visit the Museum's official website.

We think you will find the Museum of Archaeology and History (near Trinity College and Merrion Square) to be the most interesting, as it is the official repository of all archaeological items found in Ireland. Its collection of prehistoric gold jewelry and historic ecclesiastical objects are world renowned and visually stunning. Admission is free. Bedford Tower at Dublin Castle Dublin Castle provides a look into the past when the facility served as the English Government 's operating center during their 700 year rule over Ireland . Originally, the Vikings maintained a fort at this location, but it was destroyed by the Normans, who built a new wooden and stone fortification after establishing their rule. During the 13th century, the Normans began work on an enlarged, fortified stone castle. The original castle was positioned as a defensive bastion at the confluence of the Liffey and the River Poddle. The Poodle, which was covered over in the 18th century, served as a harbor for the Castle.

For those of you interested in the origin of names, at one time the lake then formed by the Poddle, and used as a harbor of sorts, was known as "Black Pool, which translated in Irish as Dubh Linn. Only a modest section of the current "castle" (the "Record Tower" shown on the left) reflects its Norman Heritage. Today's facility serves as a tourist attraction and host to official Irish Government functions, which require its public closure from time to time. Most tourists take the guided tours of the State Apartments, which served as the residential and public quarters for the Viceroy's Court when England ruled Ireland. In addition, you might want to visit the Chapel Royal and tour the Undercroft, for more on the history of the structure. In addition, the Chester Beatty Library is well known for its collection of popular religious art and manuscripts from around the world. Visit Heritage Ireland for more details. Although the Republic of Ireland is known as a "Catholic" country, the two cathedrals of Dublin, St. Patrick's Cathedral (below) and Christchurch Cathedral (right), are associated with the Church of Ireland, a participant in the Anglican Communion.

Each cathedral has a long and interesting history, but neither building is particularly extraordinary. Curiously, the city does not have an official Catholic cathedral. St Patrick's , founded in the late 12th century, was added-on continuously and underwent several major restorations, the last in the 19th century. St. Patrick's contains the tomb of the noted author Jonathan Swift (Gulliver's Travels) who was a Dean of the cathedral in the 18th century. See this site for more information on St. Patrick's Cathedral. Christ Church Cathedral (the Cathedral of the Church of the Holy Trinity) dates from the 12th century (there was a Viking church at this location at the beginning of the 11th century) and the present structure is an architectural delight both inside and out. The Crypt is quite interesting and should be toured if you have time. See the official web site for more information. Kilmainham Gaol (Jail) is one of the largest unoccupied jails in Europe. Between 1780 and its closing in 1924, the jail was filled with prisoners, many of whom were Irish political prisoners whose crimes were fighting for independence and against religious intolerance.

Many leaders of and participants in the five major Irish Rebellions were imprisoned here and many of these were executed at the facility. Visiting the Kilmainham Gaol is a thought provoking experience, as the stark building and excellent exhibition highlight the difficulties the Irish experienced during their pursuit of freedom. This is a very popular attraction, especially during the peak tourist season of summer. Access to the Gaol is by guided tour only. You can find details on visiting at the Heritage Ireland website. The Gaol is located approximately two miles to the west of central Dublin so plan to take a cab or the bus (from Aston Quay).Just in case you visit in winter or early spring please note that the Gaol's interior can be chilly, so bring a coat. Shopping There are number of areas of to shop south of Liffey. As we noted earlier in this article, Grafton Street and its cross-streets offer a cornucopia of shopping treats. In addition, be sure to see the Powerscourt Centre an elegant Georgian house converted into boutiques specializing in fashion, beauty products, antiques, jewelry as well as a number of restaurants and cafes.

Its entrance is on William Street south at the corner of Coppinger Row (follow Johnson Court from Grafton). If you are looking an opportunity to combine shopping and sightseeing, you might appreciate St. Stephen's Green Shopping Centre next to St. Stephen's Green at the south end of Grafton street. For many, the stylish Georgian houses of the 'Green" help make St. Stephen's Green one of the top rated garden squares in Europe. The Shelbourne Hotel at 27 St. Stephen's Green was a hangout of James Joyce. If you are looking for items with an Irish flavor, try Avoca on Suffolk Street (11-13 Suffolk -at the top of Grafton near the Trinity College. Avoca was originally a co-op of weavers who met with great success and have branched out from fabrics to glassware, ceramics and other interesting specialties. If you continue east to Nassau Street you will find other stores focused on Irish goods and Irish crafts. The George's Street Arcade offers an eclectic mix of fashion, books, food and souvenirs. It is located on South Great Georges at Exchequer Street. If you are looking for street markets, try Temple Bar, an area known for its nightlife.

On Saturday and Sunday, the Temple Bar Book Market is held in Temple Bar Square . Two other events are held in the area on Saturdays only. The Temple Bar Food Market is held at Meeting House Square and features many delectable foods . The Designer Mart is held outdoors at Cow's Lane and merchants sell handmade designer pieces produced by Irish artist or other artists living in Ireland. For more information on these markets and the Temple Bar area, visit the website of the Temple Bar Cultural Trust. Entertainment While you won't find an absence of food or pubs anywhere in Dublin, the Temple Bar Area is known for entertainment and nighttime frivolity. Located South of the Liffey near the Ha'penny Bridge, the area is centered on Temple Bar Street, radiating toward Dame Street on the south, Parliament Street on the West and Westmoreland on the East. Temple Bar has the feeling of "old time Dublin" and is beginning to become something of a "cultural area". For those of you looking for something special in a pub, try Davy Byrne's at 21 Duke Street, just off Grafton. (Its website can be found here.

) Davy Byrne's is the pub mentioned in James Joyce's epic novel Ulysses and a staple of the literary pub-crawls. Many travelers also visit the Brazen Head, a location that reputedly has hosted a pub since the late 12th century. The Brazen Head is at 20 Bridge Street on the west side of the street near Usher's Quay. Click here for the official website of the Brazen Head Pub. For many, a trip to Dublin is a chance to visit the Guinness Storehouse (St. James Gate), the official "home" of Guinness. The Storehouse includes a tour of the brewing process (but not the Guinness Brewery) led by a master brewer, a retail store, an advertising museum, the Source Bar where you can learn to pour Guinness in the correct manner, and the Gravity Bar, where your free pint will be dispensed. For details on visiting, see the Guinness Storehouse website . The Gravity Bar provides 360-degree views of Dublin nearly twelve stories above the ground. The Guinness Storehouse is approximately a mile and half walk west from Temple Bar area.

In May of 2008, Diageo (owner of the Guinness brand) indicated that it would shut half the plant at St. James Gate, as well as smaller operations in Kilkenny and Dundalk. A new brewery will be built on the outskirts of Dublin, while the rest of the plant at St. James will be revamped. Tourism There are a number of interesting attractions in Dublin and we recommend visiting Dublin's Official Online Tourist Office for more complete details on "what's on" during your visit to Dublin. We think the best way to experience Dublin is to take a guided walking tour. Dubliner's may never forgive us for this, but the city's buildings and attractions are underwhelming. On the other hand, the stories about them are usually very entertaining. It is the Irish spirit and its well-known characters that attract most visitors to Dublin and you usually can find some of the best of them leading walking tours. The Tourist Office can hook you up with several capable operators. More Places To Visit in Dublin Click here to explore Dublin North of the Liffey River and for our suggestions on Day Trips from Dublin. Or, click the link menu on the right-hand edge of this page to explore other areas of Ireland.

If you need information about another travel destination, try our Destination Guide Index or Googling ThereArePlaces. Custom Search Molly Malone Statue in Dublin Looks like there's not enough activity around Molly Malone Statue to show here today. Great for a group photo to commemorate your time in Dublin! Posted by Jake Smith - 2 years ago The new home for Molly Malone -- for the time being at least -- Dublin's favourite fishmonger will be staying here until 2017. Alive, alive oh! Posted by Dublin Buzz - 2 years ago It is a famous statue and difficult to get pictures as it is very crowded in that area Posted by Claiton - 4 years ago Just sing the famous song,head for trinity and feel like a dubliner Posted by Sergio Gutiérrez - 5 years ago Say foursquare to us and you might win a prize. Vat back this Christmas from Sony! Posted by Sony Scrooge - 6 years ago Dublin Icon for both tourists and locals alike. Alive, alive 'O!

Posted by Travelshake.ie - 6 years ago Video: Molly Malone gets cleaned up before returning to the streets of Dublin #dublin Posted by Irish Times Culture - 3 years ago See image @citythisway @DiscoverNI Molly Malone statue, and the Needle, Dublin Posted by mariakouzinoglouSR - 2 years ago Sweet Molly Malone!🎶 @ Molly Malone Statue, Grafton St Posted by Bitrish - 2 years ago See image @luke_brooks btw the molly malone statue isn't in the same place in dublin as it was in the best friends music video if you're wondering Posted by sit down slut - 2 years ago Molly Malone statue's cleavage defaced by vulgar vandals just days after Dublin comeback Posted by Irish Daily Mirror - 2 years ago See image Molly's back wheeling her wheelbarrow .Molly Malone unveiled at new location just around the corner - via @evoketoday Posted by Edward J Cole - 2 years ago See image The Molly Malone statue, Grafton Street.#Dublin Posted by أسد الصحراء - 2 years ago #mollymalone #dublin #streetart Graffiti vandals target Molly Malone statue in

 Dublin - we love street art but...

Posted by NA-SS - 2 years ago Molly's Malone statue in its new temporary home outside the tourist office in #dublin. #lovedublin #molly Posted by Thomas Fitzgerald - 2 years ago See image World-famous Molly Malone statue unveiled at new location by Pascal Donohoe #Dublin #MollyMalone Posted by The Irish World - 2 years ago It was his first time at #mollymalone and I told him if he touched the breasts it was good luck. He did. 😂😂 Posted by Ryan Henry - 3 years ago See image Ock poor Molly was vandalised... via @entertainmentie Posted by Rula Vam - 2 years ago In dublin's fair city, where the girls are so pretty, i first set my eyes on sweet molly malone.. @evuzus #duhastpenisgeschrieben Posted by maxi hanika - 3 years ago See image Brilliant #brunch at @OdessaClub & then met the tart with the cart my Dad used to sing about Posted by melaina25 - 3 years ago See image In Dublins far City, where's the girls are so pretty....

#mollymalone #dublin #lcfc #premierleague Posted by @CMHewett - 3 years ago See image Tart with the cart. #dublin #mollymalone #ireland #tartwiththecart #graftonstreet Posted by flexlyons - 3 years ago See image Buskers next to the Molly Malone Statue, Dublin Posted by WhoLovesYou.ME - 2 years ago @MarianKeyes I remember years ago being in Dublin with my sister & spending ages looking for statue of Molly Malone when we'd went past it!! Posted by LIFE ON MARS - 2 years ago Having a break in Dublin. Here is photo of Molly Malone's statue. Posted by John Turner - 2 years ago Passing tourists groping the Molly Malone statue.. Yano as you do on a late Friday afternoon #dublin #tourists Posted by Zoë Deady - 2 years ago Molly Malone #statues #dublin #tartwithacart #ireland #worktrip @ Statue of Molly Malone Posted by Margeri Ottis - 2 years ago See image @VisitDublin what's happened to the statue of Molly Malone?

Posted by Sharon F - 2 years ago @stephenfry The words are perfect! [Molly Malone's statue in Dublin is often referred to as 'the trollop with the scallops' by tour guides!] Posted by BattleoftheAxe - 2 years ago Charming - Molly Malone Statue, Dublin Traveller Reviews - TripAdvisor “Bronze statue at the bottom of Grafton street opposite Trinity College” Reviewed 22 January 2016 The Molly Malone Statue is a great bronze - I think- Statue providing a good photo opportunity of a Dublin character Molly Malone. The statue is at the start of Grafton street coming from the Northside of the city, just across from Trinity college. There is a whole history on Molly Malone and songs referring to her. Sometimes the statue is referred to as " the tart with the cart" by locals! Its a great photo opportunity.

Visited December 2015 Pub-hopping made fine art in Ireland | The Chronicle Herald Pub-hopping made fine art in Ireland ALLAN LYNCH Published May 23, 2015 - 7:06pm Last Updated May 23, 2015 - 7:11pm But while there are 10,000 bars to visit, there’s plenty more to see B97456987Z.1_20150523200609_000+GF89KHI6.1-1.jpg (1 of 6) In Ireland the music is everywhere. A pick-up pub group, a harpist busking in Dublin and an accordion player at the Cliffs of Moar. (ALLAN LYNCH) In Ireland the music is everywhere. A pick-up pub group, a harpist busking in Dublin and an accordion player at the Cliffs of Moar.

(ALLAN LYNCH) B97456987Z.1_20150523200609_000+GF89KHI2.1-1.jpg (2 of 6) A recumbent Oscar Wilde has the distinction of being the only full colour statue in Ireland. (ALLAN LYNCH) A recumbent Oscar Wilde has the distinction of being the only full colour statue in Ireland.

(ALLAN LYNCH) B97456987Z.1_20150523200609_000+G5D9KV20.1-1.jpg (3 of 6) B97456987Z.1_20150523200609_000+G369KKNM.1-1.jpg (4 of 6) B97456987Z.1_20150523200609_000+G369KKNO.1-1.jpg (5 of 6) Blarney Castle (ALLAN LYNCH) B97456987Z.1_20150523200609_000+G5D9KV1U.1-1.jpg (6 of 6) Kinsale lighthouse (ALLAN LYNCH) Kinsale lighthouse (ALLAN LYNCH) Ireland is probably one of the more fun countries to visit.

It has history, scenery (all that green), culture and cuisine. But, for me, the biggest draw is the people. The Irish are chatty and gregarious. Whether travelling solo, as a couple or in a group, you’ll be welcome and welcomed. It’s a lot like Atlantic Canada in that respect, except they talk much faster. On my first visit to Ireland, I mentioned to a man in a pub that I hadn’t seen any liquor stores like we have in North America. He laughed and explained that the Irish think “drinking at home is sort of anti-social. We like to see people.” So the Irish go to the pub, which in a country with 10,000 pubs doesn’t require anyone travel far. The proliferation of pubs is part of the constant quest for “the craic,” which in Ireland is nothing nefarious, merely slang for a good time. I first heard of “the craic” from a displaced Irish musician living in Nova Scotia. Later in Ireland, asking where I could find good craic gave me an entree into real Irish society.

A young woman working at Slattery’s caravan rentals told me James Ashe’s bar in Camp on the Dingle had “mighty craic.” In Kilkenny, my hostess sent me to Jim Holland’s, “where the locals go.” And in Enniskillen, a priest directed me to Blakes of the Hollow, saying, “You’re going to a good place there.” He made it sound as if I were being dispatched to heaven on Earth. Pat, a fire officer in County Westmeath, explained the grades of “the craic.” “Imagine it like this — the craic is good, is a fun night out. The craic was mighty was a very good night out, and the craic was 90 equates to Jaysus, that was a night to remember!” Humour and wit are key elements to good craic. The Irish seem to compete to be the first to hang an irreverent nickname on a thing or person. The prime minister, in Irish, is called the Taoiseach (tee-sock). His offices, in a grand gated Georgian building, have been labelled the Taosch Mahal.

Near Trinity College in Dublin, a bronze statue of the famous fishmonger Molly Malone is known as the Dish with the Fish or the Tart with the Cart. The millennium monument on O’Connell Street, referred to as the Spike in the Dike, replaces a mermaid in a fountain known as the Floozie in the Jacuzzi. The irreverent love of language also appears on the Dublin stage. Dublin has a healthy theatre scene, but don’t expect musicals. The Irish save music for the pubs, preserving the stage for thought-provoking stories that don’t necessarily confine themselves to happy endings. This extends to other venues, like the National Leprechaun Museum (it’s about folklore) that issues a parental advisory on its website that “some stories have a twist at the tail.” The Irish can cope with bleakness. G.K. Chesterton observed, the Irish “are the men that God made mad, for all their wars are merry, and all their songs are sad.” When it comes to exploring the capital, Dublin is a very walkable city in that many of the attractions, activities, better pubs and restaurants are close to the main hotels in the central core.

Dublin Sightseeing’s hop-on, hop-off tour bus will give a quick overview of the city with a closer experience provided by several special-interest organized walking tours ranging from the Musical Pub Crawl ( ) and Dublin Literary Pub Crawl ( ) — song at one, storytelling and recitations at the other — to ghost tours and a daytime historical walking tour of Dublin ( ) that traces their war of independence. Town and country: from walking to driving Outside Dublin is a wild, romantic, lush countryside that provides a dream driving holiday. My choice is to scoot across the country to the West Coast and drive the Wild Atlantic Way. It’s a 2,200-kilometre touring route from County Donegal to County Cork. I like that it’s easily broken up into five sections to fit individual itineraries and interests. We had four days for a road trip, so we limited ourselves to Killarney, Kenmare and Kinsale. For a North American driver who may be self-conscious about driving on the left, this is a great drive. A North American-style highway (the M7) allowed us to zip across the country in a matter of hours and then connect with local road systems and their lighter traffic counts.

We drove to Killarney, a decent-sized market town with a substantial range of hotels, restaurants, pubs and shops. Tourism here started in 1861, when Queen Victoria came to stay at the Muckross House estate. Visitors have been coming ever since, kayaking on the lake, hiking, cycling, enjoying the gardens and hiring a jaunting cart (a horse and driver) to explore the countryside. On the lakeside road between Killarney and Kenmare, we drove through a rhododendron forest. The rhododendrons are so big and such a pervasive problem for other plant species that local councils have hired foresters to harvest them. In the meantime, visitors drive through forest tunnels that range from adjective-depleting beauty to spooky. Kenmare is another of the property-proud, crayon-coloured communities in this region. In this pub-culture country, Kenmare is the one town in Ireland with more restaurants than pubs. From Kenmare, the Wild Atlantic Way leads us around the Beara Peninsula, with a stop at Garinish Island.

A Victorian family, for whatever reason, took advantage of the mild microclimate at the end of Bantry Bay to cover the island in a series of exotic gardens. It’s a 10-minute ferry ride, past a herd of grey seals sunning themselves on rocky outcroppings to reach Garinish. After the flowers of Garinish, we encountered a delicious barkeeper at Ma Murray’s pub in Bantry. Bill, the rascally grandfatherly bartender, had a word or a comment for everyone and everything. Our deference to his age — we called him sir — was rebuffed with a pleasant, “You won’t call me that when you learn I’ve overcharged you.” Placing our order, we learned, “Smithwick’s (beer) is drunk by the chosen people.” Our drinks poured, he directs his attention to a woman stopped in the doorway. “Come in love, we have a lovely beer garden where you’ll met a man and not be alone.” Bill was a constant laugh because he was so quick and so cheerful. From Bantry, we drove along Dunmanus Bay to Mizen Head, which contains a light station on a promontory reached via a bridge.

The winds here can be so great that they’ll rip the glasses off your face, so secure them and you’re rewarded with face-to-face experiences with seagulls, magnificent views of the Atlantic Ocean and the coast. This area has been named by the Irish Times as “the best place to holiday in Ireland.” For me, one of my favoured spots is Kinsale, a seaside town that is a 20-minute drive below Cork city. Kinsale is Ireland’s culinary capital. The best of Irish chefs are drawn here by the abundant seafood and farm-fresh produce. Restaurant menus are so proudly local that food suppliers are listed among the dish ingredients. The town is filled with quality gift shops, artisans studios, great restaurants, including the Michelin-rated Fishy Fishy Cafe, and many pubs offering live music. Complementing the town’s gastronomic focus is a permanent exhibition at Desmond Castle called The Gospel and the Grape that traces the role and expertise of the Irish in developing the world’s wine industry. As proof, it lists French chateaux named: Barton, Galway, Lawton, MacMahon, Phelan, Kirwan, MacCarthy, Clarke, Boyd and Dillon.

Spanish wine, sherry and brandy production was carried out under families such as O’Neale, Murphy, Garvey and Terry. And in America, wineries were founded by the MacMahon, Concannon, Lee and Mahoney families, while the Hogans, Lagans, Murphys and O’Sheas went to Australia. Ireland appeals to all the senses: sight, sound, smell, touch and taste, as well as the sense of humour. It’s worth going beyond the cities and into the countryside to enjoy all of it. IF YOU GO: Getting to Ireland is much easier, thanks to new direct flights. From May 1 to Oct. 24, WestJet ( ) provides direct flights between Halifax to Dublin. Europe Airpost ( ) flies Halifax-Dublin-Paris from July 9 until Sept. 11. For information about Ireland, contact your travel agent, click on or call 1-800-7426-7625. For details about the Wild Atlantic Way, go to . Allan Lynch is a Nova Scotia travel writer.

The Globe and Mail: Travel Dear dirty Dublin More European than English, the streets of this 1,000-year-old city ring with the lilt of endless cheerfulness. Abandon Temple Bar, The Globe's JOHN DOYLE advises, and discover Grafton Street, where the politicians, poets, playwrights and plain people meet. Saturday, June 30, 2001 JOHN DOYLE "The crowds in the Dublin streets are vastly different from English crowds. You do not see the haggard money look that is becoming characteristic of all English cities. There is more laughter. There is no painful rushing about. There is a cheerful ease about Dublin, a casual good temper, which makes it difficult to realize the dark times through which this city has passed." That's how the charming English travel writer H.V. Morton described Dublin in 1930 and, to everyone's delight, very little has changed in the decades since then. Ireland is enjoying an economic boom, but that "haggard money look" is still happily missing in the capital. Dublin is one of the most cheerful places on the planet, a city devoted to talk and fun and frolics.

It is not - be warned now - a place for people dismayed by rambunctious good cheer, mischief and mockery. It has been called "strumpet city," "dear dirty Dublin," and in a once-popular play, a character proclaimed that Dublin would form the streets of Paradise. The character was the worse - or the better - for alcohol at the time. Dublin is a city in which landmarks are better known by their mocking nicknames than by their official names. It is a place where language is cherished, writers are idolized and almost every pub contains a battalion of the standing army of Irish poets. The Shelbourne Hotel Photo: Leonardo Mediabank But Dublin is first an ancient city. More than 1,000 years old, it is a Viking city, a medieval city, a Georgian city, a Victorian city, a modern metropolis and - always - a European city. The first-time visitor from Canada, thinking vaguely of Dublin as another city in what the school geography books called "the British Isles" might expect Dublin to be something like a provincial English city, more linked to London than to Paris, Brussels or Lisbon. That would be the first mistake.

Ireland's and Dublin's history is one long, often cantankerous and sometimes bloody quarrel with London. A Catholic and capital city, Dublin, like the rest of Ireland, has long had stronger ties with Catholic Europe than with England. Only the weather is English - it changes all the time and sometimes in midsummer there are days that are cool and filled with rain showers. Often, however, the early evening is best, when the sky clears and the sun picks out the pockets of colour in the streets of gaily painted Georgian doors, the Wicklow mountains are visible in the distance, and you want to walk endlessly through those broad and narrow streets where laughter, banter and arguments come falling out of pub doorways. Dublin is a city for walking. It's a compact capital, divided by the river Liffey into a north and south side. To Dubliners, the division is large, but to a visitor, it is all one - a city of talk and fun. Walk along O'Connell Street, the broad and bustling main street that stretches north from the Liffey and just by paying attention to the statues and monuments that line the middle of the street, you get a sense of Dublin's history and delight in language and mischief.

First, there's a statue of Daniel O'Connell himself, known as The Liberator because he successfully led the movement to give Catholics the right to vote and own land. Then, there's a depiction of Anna Livia, goddess and guiding spirit of the river Liffey. She's portrayed as a beauty reclining in water. Locals refer to her as "the floozie in the Jacuzzi," or, if you're a Northsider, "The hoor in the sewer." At the end of the street stands Charles Parnell, beloved leader of a doomed independence movement more than a century ago. If you do walk along O'Connell Street, turn off and walk up Henry Street, one of the main, all-pedestrian shopping streets. Walk past the department stores, boutiques and book shops until you come to Moore Street, one of Dublin's oldest market streets. There you'll hear the hawkers cry out the prices and bargains, "Oran-ges, four for a pound!" "Fresh straw-berries, a pound the punnet!" as they have since Jonathan Swift's day and before.

Find your way to the pedestrian-only Halfpenny Bridge off Henry Street, cross the Liffey, look up at the medieval Christ Church Cathedral and know that in its shadow are the remains of the Viking fort founded there 1,000 years ago. Walk under the arch and down the narrow alleys to Temple Bar, the bustling centre of Dublin's contemporary nightlife. The Temple Bar Hotel Photo: Leonardo Mediabank If you want to linger in Temple Bar, you might find yourself surrounded by gangs of English revellers over for a crazy weekend. Keep going and you'll find where the real Dubliners work and play. Crossing Dame Street, look left at Trinity College, 600 years old and housing the Book of Kells. Nod hello to Edmund Burke, whose statue stands outside. At the foot of Grafton Street, stop at the statue of Molly Malone ("In Dublin's fair city/ Where the girls are so pretty/I first set my eyes on sweet Molly Malone") and be aware that the buxom woman with her hawker's wagon is known to the locals as "The tart with the cart." Press on up Grafton Street ("Met her today point blank in Grafton Street.

The crowd brought us together," James Joyce wrote in Portrait of The Artist as A Young Man.) Turn right at Wicklow Street and look for the International Bar. Sit and drink for a while in the tiny, quiet interior, staring up at the massive, elaborate wood carving that is the bar itself. Listen to the lilt of the talk. Back again to Grafton Street, watch and listen to the buskers and the pavement artists as middle-class ladies walk away pleased with their purchases from the Brown Thomas store. Follow them to Bewley's Oriental Caf�. There, have coffee and cherry buns - the best in the world - while around you sit the politicians, poets, playwrights and the plain people of the city that make it magical. Walk past the outdoor caf�s and flower sellers and up Grafton Street again until you find Harry Street. Look over at McDaid's pub - don't go in, it's already full of young tourists who've read all the books - and know that from its doors there tumbled on many nights J.P. Donleavy, Brendan Behan, Flann O'Brien and countless others who kept the literary tradition alive. Arrive at St.

Stephen's Green, loveliest of city parks, and pause by the duck pond crossing over toward Newman House, where Joyce himself was schooled. But wherever you go, just listen as you look because the sound of endless chatter and cheerfulness is the natural condition of this old and glorious city. Maps and Webcams The International Bar Best and worst time to visit May and June are the best of the summer months. Dublin's summer weather is unreliable, but those months are the sunniest and Dublin has a spring in its step as the Joyceans gather for Bloomsday, the Spanish students arrive to learn English, the pubs and restaurants set their tables outside and every waiter, bartender and shopkeeper is cheerfully expecting a great summer of tourism. Late September and October are also preferable. The city's students are back from their summers abroad and they make the city seem entirely young. The Dublin Theatre Festival creates a buzz in October and, Dublin being a compact city with dozens excellent theatres in close proximity, it's a fine, stress-free festival full of the best of new Irish works and visiting companies. A great 24 hours Many Dublin hotels are expensive, although the tourist board can find lodging to accommodate almost any budget.

If you can afford it, stay at the Shelbourne Hotel, (27 St. Stephen's Green, Dublin 2), an 18th-century hotel that's centrally located, swank and confident of its timeless sophistication. A good budget hotel is Kilronan House (70 Adelaide Rd., Dublin 2), near the city centre. Breakfast at Bewleys Oriental Caf� on Grafton Street and have your fill of Irish bacon, sausage and eggs with brown bread. You won't need lunch. Amble through the grounds of Trinity College toward the Pearse Street railway station and take the DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transit) to Howth, the fishing village at the north end of Dublin Bay. Walk around Howth Head - it takes about an hour - looking down at the Irish Sea and the old and new mansions of the Dublin rich. Remember that in Ulysses it was in the magenta heather on Howth Head that Molly Bloom gave Leopold the sweet cake from her mouth. Travel back to city centre by bus (upstairs on the bus for the best views of the seafront) and visit the Dublin Writers Museum (18-19 Parnell Sq.

N., Dublin 1) and walk over to the Shelbourne for their elegant, old-fashioned afternoon tea of pastries and tiny sandwiches. In the evening, take in the performance at the Abbey Theatre (26 Lower Abbey St. Dublin 1), the national theatre of Ireland founded by W.B. Yeats, John M. Synge and other Irish writers. Have a post-theatre dinner at Trocerdero restaurant (South Andrew Street Dublin 2), long-established haunt of the theatre crowd. (The washrooms have cold cream for late-arriving actors to remove their makeup.) Enjoy the seafood or steaks and have a late-night drink at one of the nearby Old Dublin bars - the Stag's Head (Dame Court, Dublin 2), O'Neills (Suffolk Street, Dublin 2), or the Long Hall (South Great George's Street). Shopping Dublin isn't a cheap shopping experience. The economic boom called the Celtic Tiger has made it more expensive to stay, eat, drink and shop in the city, although it is still cheaper than London. It is a great city for buying books.

Eason's (Upper Abbey Street, Dublin 1) and other branches stock a vast array of Irish-related books, magazines and newspapers. Hodges Figges (Dawson Street, Dublin 2) is one of the best stocked general-interest bookstores and is littered with excellent secondhand and antiquarian bookstores. Thomas Street, near both St. Patrick's Cathedral and Christ Church, is filled with antique stores. The contents vary from Irish craft furniture and art to exquisite art deco pieces. The best items to bring home from Ireland are Irish woollens - Dublin Woollen Mills (Lower Ormond Quay) and Blarney Woollen Mills (Nassau Street) offer a dazzling array of sweaters and just about anything you can make with wool. Kilkenny Shop (Nassau Street, Dublin 2) is the Dublin outlet of the legendary Kilkenny Design Centre and has the best in Irish design, clothes and ceramics. Clery's (O'Connel Street, Dublin 1) is an Irish-owned department store that stocks lots of Irish-made linens and clothes, often at prices lower than the chic shopping areas. Best street food Street food is not abundant in Dublin.

The mobile fish-and-chip vans that dot the city as the bars close are best avoided, but if you can find one of the sellers of baked potatoes - loaded with toppings - who occasionally show up near the popular bars, you're in for an ancient Dublin tradition. Pub food varies from the stale cheese sandwiches of some establishments to the wonderful plain meals - meat, potatoes and veg - of long-established eating pubs. Absolutely must not miss See the Book of Kells, on view at Trinity College. The Book of Kells was written around the year 800 and is one of the most beautifully illuminated manuscripts in the world. It contains the four gospels, preceded by prefaces. It is written on vellum and contains Latin text of the gospels accompanied by magnificent and intricate decorations. It is an awe-inspiring reminder that, once upon a time, Ireland really was the Island of Saints and Scholars. Most overrated The Clarence Hotel (6-8 Wellington Quay), with its bars, nightclub and restaurant, is owned by the members of the band U2 and it's on the must-see list for many younger visitors.

It's an ordinary, unexciting place, overpriced and teeming with poseurs who've contributed less to the Dublin scene than the buskers on Grafton Street. If you go First read the Dublin writers - Swift, Joyce, Yeats, Beckett, right up to the very-much-alive-and-living-in-Dublin Roddy Doyle and Seamus Heaney. Try Guinness before you go - it can be hard on you if it's your first time. The Irish Tourist Board , (800) 223-6470 is a vastly experienced and friendly group. The Dublin Tourism Centre (Suffolk Street, Dublin 2) has an on-line reservations system (e-mail reservations@dublintourism.com) and an excellent Web site . The Irish Times newspaper is not only one of the world's great papers, but has a great on-line version that has masses of information about accommodation, shopping and events in Dublin, plus a Tourist Advice section. The paper's Web site is . John Doyle, The Globe's television critic, was raised in Dublin. Advertisement

Question: Whose statue, near Trinity College Dublin, is referred to by locals as “The Tart with the Cart”?
Answer: Molly Malone