Africa on the Matrix: Namibia's Skeleton Coast News Skeleton Coast & Kunene Region The treacherous Skeleton Coast reaches north from the town of Swakopmund to Namibia's northern border at the Kunene River. Cold water, carried by the Benguela current flowing north from Antarctica, meets the hot, dry air of the Namib desert and forms an early-morning fog that often penetrates more than 20 miles inland. The currents, the winds, the fog and the absence of protected harbors have made this stretch of Atlantic coastline a hazardous passage for centuries. The morning fog is the only source of moisture for many of the specially-adapted plants that eke out a fragile existence in this forbidding environment. By late morning, the fog begins to burn away, revealing a windswept landscape of shifting sand dunes, crashing waves and the occasional black-backed jackal trotting along keeping a sharp lookout for an opportunistic meal. On the beach, several giant colonies of Cape fur seals (technically a species of sea lion) teem with the bleating sounds of babies and mothers trying to find one another among the multitudes as mothers return from feeding in the ocean.

As mothers and babies make their way through the crowd, brief but spirited fights break out as neighbors are jostled and territories are trespassed. At several points along the coast, "ephemeral" rivers traverse the dry sand en route to the sea. The rivers are "ephemeral" because they flow with water only for brief days or weeks during the rainy season. During the rest of the year they appear as dry as the rest of the strand. Looks, however, are deceiving. In many cases, the rivers still carry some water below the surface. Local plants have adapted deep root systems to reach down for the precious water. Desert elephants, which have also adapted to the harsh conditions, have learned to dig holes in the sandy river beds and wait for ground water to seep in. In some places, underground rock layers force the water to the surface in the form of small springs that attract animals from miles around. It is an eerie experience to walk along the edge of the sea. During the heyday of whaling in the 19th century, seamen dismembered their quarry to process the meat and oil and threw the bones overboard.

Many of the these bones washed ashore and remain visible today, preserved for more than a century by conditions that even decay-causing bacteria find inhospitable. There are also skeletons of young sea lions, trampled in a stampede in a crowded seal colony or perhaps snatched away by a stealthy jackal, then picked clean by the scavengers. At various points along the shore, one also sees skeletons of ships that have been dashed against the rocks and broken to pieces. In one area, there is a tomb to a seaman who lost his life along the coast (one of many to die but one of the few whose remains could be found). Inland from the Skeleton Coast lies Namibia's Kunene Region (previously known as Kaokoland when the country was under South African control). Although the region is arid, desert elephants, giraffes and many other species have adapted to the dry conditions. In addition, the Himba people have lived in the area for centuries, raising cattle, sheep and goats. Because of their isolation, the Himba have been better able to maintain their traditional lifestyle than many indigenous groups in Africa. Photos from the Kunene Region are available in a pop-up window by clicking on the link below.

The Skeleton Coast Park Resources Although the entire coastline of Namibia was formerly called The Skeleton Coast, more commonly today it refers only to the Skeleton Coast National Park. The park stretches from the Kunene River in the north for approximately 500km to the Ugab River in the south, and protects about one-third of Namibia's coastline. The Kunene River rises in the remote Angolan highlands and is one of Namibia's few perennial rivers and forms one of the country's two permanent estuaries. The crocodile population is still as large and aggressive as ever, even though the wildlife population has declined over the centuries. The strong flow of the Kunene resists tidal excursion and the fresh water pushes several kilometres out to sea, and beware, the crocodiles follow! The landscape includes sand dunes, canyons and mountain ranges all of which are synonymous with Namibia. The climatic conditions are not necessarily what you would expect in a desert country like Namibia - dense fog and cold sea breezes – and this is caused by the cold Benguela Current which flows offshore, meeting with the extreme heat of the Namib Desert .

The Skeleton Coast is is normally associated with famous shipwrecks, and stories abound of sailors walking for hundreds of kilometres through this barren Namibian landscape in search of food and water. The name came from the bones that lined the beaches from whaling operations and seal hunts, but more than a few of the skeletons were human. The Bushmen called it The Land God Made in Anger and the Portuguese knew it as The Gates of Hell. Ever since European navigators first discovered it, ships have wrecked on it's off-shore rocks, or run aground in the blinding fog. While small boats could land, the strong surf made it impossible to launch, hence the stories of sailors walking through the murderous terrain. The coast has scores of shipwrecks, some are barely recognizable, other are still in remarkably good condition. Perhaps these tragedies were meant to happen, as the wrecks provide excellent environments for Cape fur seals , living side by side with seabird colonies, offering unequaled maritime photographic opportunities. Some wrecks of note are the Dunedin Star (a crouching skeleton was found buried nearby) Islander, Suiderkus, Sir Charles Elliot and Kaio Maru.

The Seal and Luanda can be seen near Toscanini and the Atlantic Pride lies near Torra Bay . For the best views of these shipwrecks, you would need to visit the Skeleton Coast Park either on a fly-in safari or alternatively on a scenic flight. Despite its arid and deadly appearance, the Skeleton Coast has a greater variety of species than many other parks in Southern Africa. Large mammals include Namibia's famous desert-adapted elephant, black rhino, lion, cheetah, giraffe, gemsbok, zebra, springbok and spotted and brown hyena, are found in the dry river beds which flow from the interior of Namibia, through the Namib Desert to the Skeleton Coast. It is not just the larger mammals that can thrive in a desert environment and reptiles provide many curiosities in the park. Watch out for the near endemic Gerrhosaurus skoogi, an armour-plated lizard that prowls the sand-dune sea in search of vegetation detritus and !Nara melon bushes. This large, striking reptile can measure up to 30 centimetres long and can weigh up to 120gms.

The mouth of the Kunene River marks the southernmost breeding territory of the 1m long green turtle. and the same river is also home to the only Southern African population of Nile soft-shelled turtles, which have large, long necks. Caution is advised in their company, as they can be aggressive. As many as 247 species of birds have been recorded in the Skeleton Coast Park, including the near endemic Damara Tern, which nests and breeds on the gravel plains adjacent to the coast. The fishing along the Skeleton Coast is spectacular, and during the December vacations the campsite at Torra Bay are packed with fisherman. Cetaceans off-shore include endemic Benguela dolphins, killer whales and humpback whales. Occasionally beach-combing lions scour the area in search of marine carrion, and it has been recorded that in one instance a pride of lions were seen feeding on a beached whale at Torra Bay. There are only 2 places to stay in the park boundaries, the campsite at Torra Bay and for those seeking more comfort, Terrace Bay which has bungalows. Both of these places requires prior booking and are very popular during the summer holidays. Interest is not just confined to the living.

Geological features of note include gemstone beaches, salt/brine pans and dunes. The gemstone beaches are polished and smoothed by wave action and particularly around Möwe Bay, gleam with a multi-coloured carpet of semi-precious stones, including red and maroon garnets, agate, quartzes, amethysts, magnetite (a form of gleaming black iron ore that is magnetic,) ilmenite (which contains titanium) and carnelians. They are sometimes to be found scattered amongst the remains of shattered remains of whale skeletons and shipwrecks up to 500 years old. Taking anything out of the park is prohibited. The most easily visited salt/brine pans are those just south of the park at Cape Cross where subterranean rock salt can reach depths of 25m. The salt pans form large, attractive and complex crystal blocks. Other pans occur further north, notably at Cape Frio, where they extend to roughly 90km in length. At Angra Fria some brine pans are over 100m deep. Although there are no large dunes in the southern portion of the park, the massive dunes begin in earnest just north of Torra Bay.

They are paler than their counterparts in the Namib-Naukluft Park, but are nonetheless extremely dramatic, particularly the crescent-shaped barchan dunes. Dunes constantly reinvent themselves (even more then Madonna!) as wind and sand-slides alter their shape and location. Where the wind remains constant, the barchans are slowly shunted along in almost military fashion. Day visitors to the Skeleton Coast Park are only allowed in the park between sunrise and sunset, and permits are available at the two entry gates (the Ugab River in the south and Springbokwasser in the east). The ecologically sensitive area north of Terrace Bay is inaccessible to the general public and entrance to this area is restricted to a few operators who operate fly-in safaris around Namibia. Accommodation is available outside of the park south of the Ugab River at miles 108 & 172, but these camps are very bleak and it is recommended you push on to either Henties Bay or Swakopmund . On your drive pay a visit to the Cape Cross Seal Colony which is defiantly the smelliest place in Namibia.

For visitors entering or leaving the the park through Springbokwasser there is plenty of accommodation in Damaraland. Other interesting places of note also worth a visit are the clay castles of the Hoarusib Canyon, the Lichen plains, the Basalt outcrops, the linear oases/sand rivers, Messum Crater and Namibia's highest mountain, The Brandberg. A Skeleton Coast Fly-In safari is the highlight of any trip to Namibia - and if you are serious about visiting this spectacular area we highly recommend booking yourself on one of these amazing trips. You can only enjoy the extraordinary, raw piece of wilderness! View more pictures: New African Frontiers - Skeleton Coast National Park Skeleton Coast National Park Skeleton Coast National Park Skeleton Coast National Park The Skeleton Coast Park was proclaimed in its present form in 1973 and extends from the Kunene River in the north for some 500km to the Ugab River in the south, its total area being approximately 16,400 sq km. The attraction of this remote area lies in the untouched landscapes of windswept dunes, rugged canyon walls and extensive mountain ranges.

Its aura of mystery and mightiness is largely due to the dense coastal fog and cold sea breezes caused by the cold Benguela Ocean current from the Arctic, and bones scattered on its beaches from where the park's name derives. The landscape in the park ranges from sweeping vistas of wind swept dunes to rugged canyons with walls of richly coloured volcanic rock and extensive mountain ranges. Its level coastline characterises the park, only occasionally broken by scattered rocky outcrops. The southern section consists of the gravel plains, but north of Terrace Bay high dunes occur in the immediate vicinity of the coast. The remains of shipwrecks scattered along the coast bear witness to many ships, which have come to grief along these desolate shores. The Ugab River is its southern boundary, and the park stretches north to the Kunene River. The park covers over 1.6 million hectares and divided into two zones - the southern section, between Ugab and Hoanib rivers, and the northern section - between the Hoanib and Kunene rivers. The latter has been demarcated as wilderness area and tourists can only enter the area by means of exclusive fly-in safaris conducted by a concessionaire.

Of special interest are the “Clay Castles” of the Hoarusib, the salt pans near the Agate Mountain and one of the largest seal colonies in the world at Cape Fria. The vegetation between the Ugab and Huab rivers falls within the Central Namib type, while that of north of the Huab is classified as Northern Namib. The vegetation is relatively spare, the most common species being dollar bush, brakspekbos and the occasional stands of ganna. Most of the plant and insect species depends for their moisture on the thick for that envelopes the coast and hinterland, and in the northern edges of the wilderness, where there are rivers of sorts as well as underground water, birds and animals manage to survive and even flourish. Mammals along the coast are mainly limited to black-backed jackal, brown hyena and the Cape fur seals. Unusual inhabitants like the coastal lion had been seen, uniquely adopted to utilize coastal resources. The lions did not inhabit the coast permanently but used the river courses that cut through the Namib to move between the coast and the interior. Far more prolific is the bird life occurring along the coast.

As a result of the nutrient-rich ocean off the Skeleton Coast Park, large numbers of sea and shore birds are attracted. Adjoining the northern section of the Skeleton Coats Park is Kaokoland inhabited by the Himba people, who still live according to ancient customs and traditions and to the southern section of the park is Damaraland, inhabited by the Damara people, who have adopted western lifestyles. ACCESSIBILITY: The southern section of the park is accessible to the general public and attracts anglers to its superb fishing grounds. Because of the ecological sensitivity of the area, the Ministry of Environment and Tourism manages it. This park was opened for the through-travel in October 1998 and travellers must be in possession of the necessary permit which can be obtained from the Ministry's Reservation office in Windhoek or its Information office in Swakopmund. The park can be entered at Ugabmund and Springbokwasser checkpoints.

The Northern section of the Park is a tourism concession and restricted to fly-in safaris only - (Please see our Namibia Fly-In Safari section) DIRECTIONS: The Park can be reached either along the C34 linking Swakopmund and Terrace Bay or from Khorixas via Springbokwasser along the C39. Travelling from the south, the Ugab River Gate is about 200 km north of Swakopmund. Torra Bay is 117 km further north, while Terrace Bay is another 48 km further on. Approaching from the west, the gate at Springbokwasser is reached 170 km west of Khorixas. From here it is a further 40 km to the junction with the C34, with Torra Bay and Terrace Bay being 10 and 58 km north respectively. There are landing strips at Torra Bay and Terrace Bay, but no aviation fuel is available. If you fly in you should circle the camp before landing to draw the attention of camp staff that will then pick you up.

TERRACE BAY - AIR STRIP: NOT LICENSED: 1959 S, 1302 E Elevation: 1 00 Runway: 33/15, 1 515 m, Hard Sand ACCOMMODATION: Although the early mariners passing along the desolate coastline of Namibia centuries ago feared the Skeleton Coast, the park is today a popular tourist attraction. Many anglers are lured to the Skeleton Coast by its reputation for excellent catches, while other visitors are attracted by the name which evokes a sense of mystery and intrigue. For some the appeal of the Skeleton Coast is simply the solitude. TERRACE BAY: (Terrace Bay is open throughout the year) Visitors are accommodated on an all-inclusive basis in bungalows containing two-bedded bedrooms, showers, wash basins and toilets. Bedding is provided, but as the tariff includes three meals a day, appliances such as kettles, stoves and fridges are not supplied, nor are there any outside fireplaces. FACILITIES: Amenities at Terrace Bay include a filling station and a shop which stocks a limited range of groceries, liquor, souvenirs and bait.

Ample freezing facilities are available for anglers. IMPORTANT: No pets allowed Overnight visitors must be in possession of reservation advices issued by the reservations office in Windhoek No-one will be allowed to cross the Ugab River after 15h00 or to pass the checkpoint at Springbokwasser after 17h00 en route to Terrace Bay. No motor-cycles No visitors allowed north or south of the demarcated angling area TORRA BAY: (Torra Bay is only open from 1 December to 31 January) FACILITIES: Facilities are limited to camp and caravan sites served by communal ablutions. A small fee is charged for the use of the showers as the water has to be transported in. At Torra Bay fuel, firewood and water are sold during the Namibian December/January school holidays only, while a kiosk is also open during this period.

IMPORTANT: Overnight visitors must be in possession of reservation advices issued by the booking office in Windhoek No-one will be allowed to cross the Ugab River after 15h00 or to pass the checkpoint at Springbokwasser after 17h00 a route to Torra Bay No visits to Terrace Bay without booking advices Fuel, fire-wood and water sold during the December school holidays No pets allowed No motor-cycles “Visitors Travel Journal to the Skeleton Coast Park” The Skeleton Coast Park, a seemingly hostile, barren environment will allow you to experience the mystery and subtlety of nature hidden in its fragile mistiness if you take the time and utilise all your powers of observation. It is a fascinating area, with its history of rumours of "diamond rich" deposits, which lured the hopeful and proved to be illusions. Here nothing is obvious, nothing predictable, as you travel through the apparent emptiness of the desert from the southern boundary of the park - the skull and crossbone gates at the Ugab River.

On the way, you will have traversed the lichen-strewn gravel plains of the National West Coast Recreational Area from the quaint German colonial town of Swakopmund, passing the small holiday villages of Wlotzka's Baken and Henties Bay, stopping to see the impressive breeding colony of Cape Fur Seals at Cape Cross. Here, Portuguese navigator Diego Cao planted a cross in 1486, a replica of which stands on a rocky rise near the noisily active seals. The road to the ship wreck of the Winston, one of the many fishing vessels to prove that the name Skeleton Coast is truly apt, is well signposted a few kilometres south of the gate to the park. Please note that the salt pan next to the track is treacherous; under no circumstances should you try to drive on it even in a four- wheel drive vehicle. It is well worth a visit, however, as not only the wreck but the flotsam on the beach illustrates the violence of this section of the Atlantic coastline. It has also provided a suitable nesting site for Cape Cormorants who build high seaweed structures on the masts and bows of the now skeletal vessel.

The gate adorned with a skull and crossbone at the permit check point just south of the Ugab River is your first glimpse of the park. Your first stop after checking in should be the Ugab riverbed itself. Here you will be introduced to the diversity of flora and fauna present in all the riverbeds. The normally dry Ugab River, stretching almost 500 kilometres from its head waters in the interior, is one of the major Namib Rivers, all of which form life-giving arteries for the larger species of animals and vegetation to be found in the desert. You will see stunted, wind-blown Acacia trees and perhaps be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of springbok, gemsbok or even brown hyena and lion which are known to occur there periodically. The dense stands of alien wild tobacco plants, Nicotiana glauca, which are carried down with the periodic flood waters, have been removed in patches, in an experiment to determine the effect of the plants on indigenous vegetation. Three-day Hiking Trails in the Ugab can be arranged through the Ministry of Environment & Tourism. Driving northward from the wide river bed, you will travel parallel to the sea, between lichen-covered gravel plains.

In this section you will need all your powers of observation as life forms on the gravel plains are small and seemingly insignificant. The best is to stop on the side of the road and to walk onto the plains. Look down carefully and you will notice that what looked like green pebbles from the car, are, in reality, stones covered by the strange, plant-like lichens, a combination of algae and fungae, which grow in the coastal areas. In this symbiotic relationship, the algae provides nutrition through photosynthesis, while the fungae can utilise moisture. On a foggy, cool morning their colours are far more obvious, as their leaves open to make the most of the moisture available. On dry, sunny, windy afternoons, their leaves fold, presenting less of their surface area to the sun and thus preserving moisture, but also becoming less obvious. In some areas you will be able to see up to five different lichen species growing on one rock, with colours ranging from deep orange, through various shades of green to dull black. These plains are also the nesting area of the pretty black and white Damara Tern, whose eggs and chicks are so well camouflaged that you have to be very careful not to step on them.

These rare and endangered birds are strictly protected but are threatened by human disturbance. The gravel plains, with their related fauna and flora are extremely fragile and the damage done to areas by vehicles driving over them indiscriminately is at once unsightly and reprehensible. Many smaller species of fauna shelter below the pebbles and are destroyed by vehicles, as are the eggs and chicks of the Damara Tern. The surface of the plains is brittle and easily compacted by wheels, with resultant tracks that last for decades. These tracks, in turn, destroy the lichens which are very slow to re-establish. Some experts believe that it could take up to a century for the substrate to recover sufficiently to allow lichens to be able to start growing again. If you do pick up a rock to study the lichens more closely, please be sure to replace it in its original position, as a changed angle could deprive the lichen of moisture and thus cause a die-off of the growth. Here you will have the chance of glimpsing the little black or white tenebrionid beetles of the Namib as they scurry between the small mounds of sand that have collected around dwarf shrubs.

These little beetles and the fish moths found throughout the Namib, shelter under and feed on the wind-blown detritus that collects on these mounds, which are characteristic and can be seen around all low vegetation along the windy Skeleton Coast. The next river you cross, the Huab, an ancient glacial river, though not as long as the Ugab, is as important for the food and shelter it provides for a variety of wildlife, including the uncommon Osprey which sometimes feeds near the river mouth. Outside the boundaries of the park, both Ugab and Huab Rivers support the southern populations of large mammals such as elephant and black rhino which have adapted to life in this unbelievably arid environment. On the northern bank of the Huab you will see barchan dunes, small, whale-shaped, "marching" dunes that are moved across the gravel plains by the wind that is an almost permanent feature of the Skeleton Coast. These dunes support the same fauna found on large dunes, but, by moving, aid the distribution of the various species of insects, lizards and rodents.

Between the Huab River and the apparently insignificant Koichab River you will be able to visit another shipwreck, that of the fishing schooner Atlantic Pride. A little further on you come across a strange, rusted structure to the right of the main road. This derelict oil drilling rig was erected by hopeful entrepreneurs before the park was proclaimed and now provides a perfect nesting area for a breeding colony of Cape Cormorants. The rusty skeleton contrasts with the noisy, active birds, continuously flying in and out with fish or seaweed. The colony attracts jackals, often seen scavenging below the rig and the fearsome looking, but mild-natured brown hyena, which, as it is nocturnal and not often seen during the day, can be identified by its spoor of a large forepaw and smaller hindpaw. The Koichab River, which you may not even notice unless you are expecting it, is no less important than the other rivers for its shrubby vegetation and related fauna of rodents and insects, gemsbok, ostrich and springbok. The only other access road to and from the park is one which leads east to Khorixas, out of the Springbokwasser gate.

This stretch of road takes you past a series of barchan dunes to the nearby escarpment hills, whose grey coloured caps are caused by incredibly rich lichen growth. Further east on this road you will come across the famed Welwitschia Mirabilis growing in dry river courses. This two-leafed member of the conifer family only occurs in the Namib Desert. Gradually more diverse plant species become noticeable including the tall Euphorbia damarana whose thin, stiff leaves seem to reach up to the desert sky. Error: Only up to 6 widgets are supported in this layout. If you need more add your own layout. Skeleton Coast - African Safari Consultants Skeleton Coast Search Skeleton Coast Namibia’s Skeleton Coast is shrouded in mystery and a place of great extremes; where the seemingly endless desertscape collides with a frigid and rugged coastline. The consistently rough seas and dense ocean fogs, known to the locals as ‘cassimbo’, plagued sailors of the past with legendary peril, and today the coastline is steeped in a fascinating shipwreck history.

This formidable and vast expanse which stretches from the Swakop River in Namibia to the Kunene River in Angola was described by the first Portuguese settlers as ‘The Gates of Hell’, whereas today it provides a remote sanctuary nearly untouched by man. It truly is a place which is perfect for travelers who want to get completely off the grid and experience nature in one of its rawest states. Visitors to the region will be captivated by the awe inspiring moonscapes and fauna and flora which have adjusted to the regions challenging environment and turned it into a surprising oasis of unusual desert adapted life including the incredible desert lions, black rhino and desert elephants. The Welwithcia tree, also known as a living fossil, is one such strange dessert dweller and has been found to live to an incredible 2000 years old. The best camp to stay at is Hoanib Skeleton Coast Camp. Operated by Wilderness Safaris, it is the perfect base from which to enjoy an indepth encounter (in the company of excellent guides ) with the fascinating wildlife and phenomenon of this surreal corner of the planet.

We suggest that only way to access the Skeleton Coast is by aircraft, and, arriving from above, the aerial views of the sparse patterned landscape and adjoining turbulent seas, gives a powerful appreciation for the sheer remoteness of the area. Once on land, immersed in a landscape of endless vistas and towering sand dunes, the hustle and bustle of the outside world falls away and is replaced with a deep sense of peace of quite. At night the sky looms large with celestial bodies and immerses those below in the mysteries of our solar system and beyond, unbridled by even the slightest light pollution. Skeleton Coast, Namibia - Giltedge Travel - Tailor Made Travel to Africa Skeleton Coast Skeleton Coast The high number of shipwrecks found along this hazardous coastline as well as the whalebones that scatter the beaches resulted in this section of Namibia’s coastline being named the Skeleton Coast. A striking and unforgettable landscape of stark contrasts, this region is the base for legendary holiday experiences. The region is home to a great variety of animal species and those who visit Namibia’s Skeleton Coast are likely to see the shy desert-adapted elephant as well as the stealthy lion and cheetah.

Besides these impressive predators, the large armour-plated lizards of the area are an impressive sight, intimidating crocodiles inhabit the rivers and there are rumours of lions that live on the beach! Balancing out the stark contrasts of the landscape is a gemstone beach, filled with glittering semi-precious stones and backed by white sand and crystal block dunes. A sensory experience, the Skeleton Coast is a fantastic destination for adventurers, photographers and those looking for unusual destinations, and interesting activities combined with luxury accommodation. Highlights during a trip to the Skeleton Coast include: Cape Cross Seal Colony with its hundreds of thousands of Cape Fur Seals Hunting for shipwrecks, the most famous of which is the Dunedin Star Skeleton Coast Accommodation Skeleton Coast Safaris A unique four-day safari that takes visitors through Namibia’s Damaraland, Kaokoland and alongside the Kunene River allowing the exploration of the country’s starkly beautiful Skeleton Coast region. Flying over some of the most spectacular landscapes on earth, this unique safari includes luxury accommodation along route with the renowned Schoeman family.

Namibia's Skeleton Coast | Travel | The Guardian The Observer Namibia's Skeleton Coast Swakopmund, Namibia, is the unlikely successor to Portmeirion as the setting for the remake of The Prisoner. But what is it like to actually get stuck there? 'Not quite Europe, not quite Africa': Swakopmund. Photograph: Alamy Fran Sandham Share on Messenger Close At 5am, after 10 hours creaking and groaning across interminable dry scrub savannah and then pure desert, the night train from Windhoek finally reaches Swakopmund. I haven't slept for two days – only three days ago I was still at work in London. The train conductor mistakes my haggard expression for dissatisfaction with the train service. "Sorry, we had a flat tyre!" he jokes. Stepping off the train into the empty streets, it's hard to get my bearings. I'm so tired it takes me several minutes to identify a curiously irritating tapping sound, rather like a woodpecker following me around − my teeth chattering. I'd been warned about the cold down here on the coast, but it feels bizarre. Am I really in Africa? The surroundings are stranger still.

Swakopmund is sandwiched between the cold breakers of the South Atlantic and the burning heat of the world's oldest desert, but rather than a wild, remote, frontier town, it feels more like a rather genteel European seaside resort. Fog creeps around the corners, rolling in from the sea. The buildings which loom from the mist are whitewashed and half-timbered, looking like mock-Tudor southern England. There are twee ornamental lawns, a pier, candy-striped lighthouse and several pretty churches. When I find a hotel, the receptionist is an elderly German lady, and the young black Ovambo porter is called Gerhardt. It's not quite Europe, not quite Africa, a peculiar other world, marooned in the desert. All of which makes it the perfect setting for the remake of The Prisoner, the cult 1960s TV series that follows Patrick McGoohan trying to escape from "The Village", a place that is half fantasy perfection, half sinister prison.

The new version stars Ian McKellen and Jim Caviezel and has many of the weird hallmarks of the original, including the evil giant balloons that chase would-be escapees; however, the location has moved from Portmeirion, the Italianate holiday village in north Wales, to Swakopmund, a town just as surreal as anything in the show. Much of its strangeness is a product of the town's German heritage. Namibia was a German colony from 1884 to 1915, but strong links continued long after that, and while there are reminders of this throughout the country, nowhere is the German influence more readily visible than in Swakopmund. Today, many of the streets have German names (though Kaiser Wilhelm Strasse has been renamed Sam Nujoma Avenue after Namibia's first president). German bakeries on every corner serve their customers Brötchen and pumpernickel, the town's brewery makes beer to strict German standards and you can find more varieties of wurst than probably exist in Germany. Some of the bars wouldn't look out of place in Bavaria, with wood-panelling, roaring fires and maps of the fatherland on the wall.

Beside the half-timbered buildings, others are painted in bright pastels, and styles range from the "rustic" colonial of early structures to the full-blown elegance of neo-baroque national monuments such as the Evangelical Lutheran Church. But beyond Swakopmund's colonial architecture, twee souvenir shops and carefully tended residential gardens there's always a sense of the vast African landscape outside, eerily beautiful, harsh and unforgiving, especially to the north, on the aptly named Skeleton Coast. The filmmakers used the dunes to lend visual grandeur to Caviezel's attempts at escape, but in reality they are helping draw growing numbers of tourists who come to quadbike through the desert. When Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt moved to the town for several months for the birth of her daughter Shiloh, Pitt spent much of his time ripping round the sands on a quad. I went to Swakopmund to start a solo walk across Africa, from the Skeleton Coast to the Indian Ocean, but things didn't begin well. In fact, true to the spirit of The Prisoner, I got stuck there for more than three months, my efforts to leave repeatedly thwarted.

The coastal chill had done little to prepare me for rocketing temperatures inland; after four days on foot in the Namib Desert I was back in town to buy a donkey to carry my gear and water. This plan backfired, dissolving into fiasco when I bought a desert donkey called "Tsondab" (in the Nama language "Where you get stuck"). In 10 weeks together we'd covered literally less than one mile of the journey across Africa. During this period, one Swakopmund landmark in particular came to symbolise my enforced sojourn on the coast: the "Martin Luther" – the unluckiest steam tractor in history, abandoned just outside town. Imported by the German authorities in 1896 to replace ox-wagon transport, it proved so utterly inefficient that it took three months to clunk its way a mere 20 miles up the coast.

At Swakopmund it broke down completely, and remains there to this day, earning its nickname after someone remembered the words of Martin Luther: "Here I stand, God help me, I cannot do otherwise." And yet I look back on that time on the Namibian coast with perhaps the most fondness of the entire journey across Africa – the absurdity of it all delights me. If you are going to get stuck somewhere, Swakopmund is a very nice place for it to happen. Fran Sandham is the author of Traversa: A Solo Walk Across Africa (Duckworth, £10.89). The Prisoner is on ITV 1 at 9pm on Saturdays Where to stay The Swakopmund Hotel (00 264 64 410 5200; swakopmundhotel.co.za ), housed in the ornate former station built in 1901, is the most upmarket address, and features prominently in the Prisoner remake. It's not cheap, though: doubles with breakfast cost from N$2,950 (£260).

For a taste of traditional, German-influenced Swakopmund, try the Hansa Hotel (00 264 64 414200; hansahotel.com.na ; doubles with breakfast from N$1,820/£160) or the Hotel Eberwein (00 264 64 414450; eberwein.com.na ; doubles from N$960/£85). At the other end of the spectrum is the Stiltz (00 264 64 400771; thestiltz.in.na ; doubles from N$1,290/£114), a collection of nine thatched bungalows close to the beach at the southern end of town. What to do Whether quadbiking over the dunes, sky-diving above them or surfing down them, adrenaline sports are big here. Desert Explorers (00 264 64 406096; swakop.com/adv/ ) can arrange all these, and more gentle activities such as horse riding and ballooning.

Scenic flights are popular, and several operators in town offer flights over the Skeleton Coast or to the dunes of Sossusvlei. The beach can be windy here, but you can easily spend a day or two strolling along the seafront and stopping off at the bars and cafés. Where to eat Swakopmund has the best food scene in Namibia outside the capital, but restaurants get busy, so you should book. Grapevine (00 264 64 404770; Libertina Amathila Avenue) is a romantic spot with gourmet food. For something more relaxed head for the Tug (00 264 64 402356; Strand Street), an old tug boat pulled on to the seafront and converted into a restaurant. German bakeries are found on most streets, with Café Anton (1 Bismarck Street) perhaps the most famous. How to get there You can take the train, bus or fly from the capital, Windhoek, but the best option is to visit as part of a self-drive tour of Namibia. Roads are often unsurfaced but you don't need a 4x4.

Expert Africa (020 8232 9777; expertafrica.com) offers an 11-day itinerary, including time in Swakopmund, staying at a variety of small guesthouses and farms, from £1,782 including flights, car hire and accommodation. The original: visiting Portmeirion Seeing the set of the original 1967 show is rather easier. It was filmed at Portmeirion in north Wales, a holiday village built between 1925 and 1975 and designed to resemble a resort on the Italian riviera. Guests stay in a waterside hotel, a hilltop castle, or individual rooms in the buildings that make up the village. Prices start at £170 per night for a double room including breakfast (01766 770 000; portmeirion-village.com ). Skeleton Coast National Park Climate - Journeys by Design Skeleton Coast National Park Climate » View imperial units Namibia is located in southern Africa. It is bordered in the north by Angola and Zambia, in the east by Botswana, the south by South Africa, and in the west by the Atlantic Ocean.

At the moment (2011), Journeys by Design designs itineraries that include the following destinations: the Caprivi Strip, Damaraland, Etosha National Park, Namib Private Reserve, Skeleton Coast National Park, Sossusvlei, Swakomund and Windhoek. As with the rest of South Africa, Namibia experiences a tropical climate, the particularities of which are determined by latitude, to a lesser extent by altitude, by its proximity to the ocean and by the characteristics of its dominant air mass. Situated on a subtropical latitudinal range of 17° to 28°, Namibia has a bimodal precipitation pattern. The wet - or rainy - season occurs in November to April. These are the summer months and are characterised by rising temperatures – which during the day average out at between 25°C and 35°C, depending on where you are, and during the night fall to between 10°C and 20°C. The rains peak in January and February, occur in great bursts and can bring travel to a standstill.

The winter or peak dry season occurs June – September, when temperatures fall to a daytime average of 15°C to 25°C, and to a very cold night time average of 0°C to 10°C. With the Inter-Tropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ), which brings rain to much of equatorial Africa, no more than grazing northern Namibia, levels of precipitation decrease southwards and westwards. The northern most part (less the coastal strip), which includes the Caprivi Strip and Etosha, receives about 700mm of rain per year. The central plateau – Windhoek, parts of Damaraland - receives in the vicinity of 350mm. In the southern deserts, rainfall levels can be anything between 25mm and 150mm, while the coastal strip- the Skeleton Coast - rarely experiences anything more than 25mm of rain per annum. The country owes its aridity to the overbearing influence of the Benguala, a predominant and north flowing Atlantic current, whose cold upwelling allows for little sea-based evaporation and produces, therefore, a high pressure zone – or Mid-Latitude High Pressure Zone (MLHPZ).

Cool and dry, this air mass moves inland, providing little rain, the levels of evapotranspiration far exceeding the density of the air mass’s moisture content. Indeed, the specialist fauna that survive along the likes of the Skeleton Coast obtain water not from rain, but either – as is the case with Namibia’s desert elephants – from the water found beneath seasonal riverbeds or from the plants they eat, while the flora has evolved to survive solely on the morning fogs that penetrate up to 60 kilometres inland. As a rule of thumb, when we speak of the climate and its effects on wildlife, it is true to say that game viewing in Namibia is best during the dry season, when the animals are forced to exploit fewer sources of water. During the wet season, the animals are afforded greater cover, are more widely dispersed and therefore much more difficult to spot. This is especially true of Etosha, the Capri Strip and in the greener uplands. Moreover, the summer months are genuinely uncomfortable, day and night.

However, there are exceptions: the Skeleton Coast is relatively cool throughout the year, and the Kalahari, while super hot, sees the animals massing during the rains, the area’s cover negligible compared to that found in the north. Bird watching is best during the summer, from September, with the arrival of the first migration. Namibia Skeleton Coast - Jenman African Safaris Jenman African Safaris Home / Attractions / Namibia / Skeleton Coast NAMIBIA SAFARIS AND THE SKELETON COAST: The Skeleton Coast National Park covers 2-million hectares, yet surprisingly it remains one of the least visited and most inhospitable places on the planet. It is untouched and mysterious, sometimes swept by cold ocean breezes and a dense fog, which played a lead role in the history of shipwrecks that rest along the shoreline. During one of our incredible Namibia safaris, you’ll be able to discover the wrecks themselves that rest upon the beach and come face-to-face with history itself. The Skeleton Coast temperatures between October and May are surprisingly cool compared to the hot and arid region just south of this Namibian attraction.

There is a strong wind that blows between May and September, covering the Skeleton Coast with mist and lowering the temperature significantly. Although it never drops below freezing at the Skeleton Coast, it can become very cold during the winter months – especially at night. It rarely rains, but the constant sea mist gives moisture to the plant and animal life. Another important feature of the Skeleton Coast are the many different types of sand dunes that can be found there. With hummock dunes, traverse dunes and crescent dunes, as well as rugged canyons and richly coloured volcanic rock, you’ll be astounded by the extraordinary geology of this Namibian area. And what would a Namibian safari experience be without the wildlife? On one of our safaris to the Skeleton Coast, you’ll be able to encounter the rare and endangered desert elephant, desert Oryx, springbok, giraffe, brown hyena, ostrich, and the rare black rhino. You’ll also be able to witness the nearly seal colony which holds several thousand Cape fur seals, with dolphins and whales leaping in the waves just off the shore.

The Himba Tribe While no one can live on this inhospitable Skeleton coast, the nomadic Himba tribe resides further inland not far from this barren desolate tract. The Himba people are beautiful, elegant and mysterious Namibian people. They wear simple goatskins and jewellery made from leather, metal and shells. The Himba people adorn and protect their bodies and hair with rich ochre mud mixed with animal fat. This gives them protection from the elements in this Namibia safari area, and coats their skin in a thick aesthetic layer of tribal make up. Amazingly, the Himba people appear striking and magnificent looking due to their skin treatment – creating a quiet, elegant beauty that reflects their traditions and culture. From rare encounters with the nomadic beautiful and elegant Himba tribe to the thousands of roaring Cape fur seals that call the Skeleton Coast home, a Namibian safari to the Skeleton Coast is one experience that you will not quickly forget! Skeleton Coast Safaris - Namibia's remote north west coastline Home / Countries / Namibia / Skeleton Coast The Skeleton Coast Fewer than 800 outsiders visit the remote, harsh and absolutely breath taking northern Skeleton Coast annually.

Access is via light aircraft and you’ll be utterly “off the map” for as long as you’re there. Expect to pay top dollar for an experience that registers with seasoned African travellers and safari professionals as one of the most exceptional journeys available in Africa. the country’s bleak and savagely inhospitable northern seaboard, the Skeleton Coast has been a maritime graveyard for unwary ships over the centuries. Surviving sailors came ashore only to die in the pitiless wastes of the Namib Desert. Today the far north is home to the Skeleton Coast National Park, conserving this rare location and sharing its drama, the solitude and outstanding natural beauty with a few visitors and conservationists. The northern Skeleton Coast Wilderness between the Hoanib (Mowe Bay) and Kunene Rivers makes up nearly 70% of the Skeleton Coast National Park. This truly desolate region provides a realistic chance of seeing desert elephant , rhino, giraffe and lion but is strictly off-limits to independent travellers and land access is only via fly-in safari. In the easily accessible south, the National West Coast Recreation Area is a frequent haunt of regional fishermen providing excellent angling.

Cape Cross Seal Reserve north of Hentie’s Bay is the country’s best known breeding colony of Cape fur seals. The Ugab River Hiking Trail is a 3-day hike across the coastal plain into the jagged mountains and canyons of the interior. The Skeleton Coast is named for the bones of whales and seals which have been bleached in the sun, a relic from times when whaling was a much greater industry than it is today. The shells of more than a thousand ships which have been claimed by heavy fog and rocks also hauntingly cling to the coastline. Sandy rivers reach the sea in several places along this coast, marking a series of green ribbons that randomly streak the land. Beside the sea, highly specialised vegetation such as lithops and lichen thrive on the air-borne moisture, whilst there are large seal colonies at Cape Cross and Frio that’s worth a visit. The Skeleton Coast is one of the most infamous stretches of coastline along the west coast of Africa – it receives its name from the rusting skeletons of hundreds of ships that met their doom in the heavy fog and rocks offshore.

The sun-bleached bones of whales and seals also haunt the expanse of sand and waves; relics from the days of extensive whale hunting. Part of the Namib Desert, it is found along the northern part of the Atlantic Coast. Much of the area is covered by the Skeleton Coast National Park. Sand rivers that bisect the Namib Desert reach the sea in several places along this coast, giving the end point of green, lush ribbons that randomly streak the land. These would have been a shipwrecked sailor’s only hope of living if they had found themselves on the stark beach of the Skeleton Coast. Supporting whole ecosystems, the rivers that are running underground in these areas are sometimes forced out of the sand by impermeable rock, giving valuable sources of water that are important to many different animals living in the area. Animals that are supported include desert elephant and black rhino, as well as gemsbok (oryx), kudu, springbok, steenbok, jackals, genets and small wild cats. The brown hyena is also common in these areas, although it is hard to see.

Sometimes giraffe, zebra, lion and cheetah will appear, with the predators using the valleys as hunting grounds. In the past the lions strayed onto the beach to hunt seals, but lions haven’t been seen on the beach for many years. Beside the sea, highly specialised vegetation such as lithops and lichen thrive on the moisture on the air, giving an extremely eye-pleasing variety of colours on the ground. To the south, brown and red gravel plains are covered in lichen gardens; a stunning array of colours including reds, oranges, vivid greens, dark browns, greys and blacks that will captivates the eye. These lichens are not actually plants, but a symbiotic partnership of algae and fungi, the latter acting as a foundation upon which algae can grown on – whilst algae serves as an easy food supply for the fungi. In the desert they can take on the form of plants, or just cover the gravel, whilst on the beaches they coat the sand.

Damp early mornings are the best time to look at these fields, as the lichen will be moist and lively; for those who want to see them at their best during the day, stopping and pouring some water over a patch will bring about a miraculous transformation as the seemingly flat flakes uncurl and come to life before your eyes! An alien planet almost… The gemsbok (oryx) has very limited sources of water from either the scarce rivers or by collecting moisture in their nostrils from the sea fog which comes inland overnight and settles on the land. Many of the reptiles and insects collect moisture the same way. Other highlights of this area include the large seal colony at Cape Fria – birthing time is late November to early January when the great, smelly mass of seals can be seen fighting, fishing and rearing their pups at close quarters. Jackal hang around on the fringes with vultures circling vicariously overhead. Enormous sanddunes are to the north of the coast which include the Roaring Dunes and the dunes provide many hours of entertainment in a 4×4 Landrover as the photograph on the Destinations page shows.

There are only two small, exclusive camps in this area and the best way to experience this unique landscape is to take a 4 day fly-in safari. The Skeleton Coast The Skeleton Coast is named for the bones of whales and seals which have been bleached in the sun, a relic from times when whaling was a much greater industry than it is today. The shells of more than a thousand ships which have been claimed by heavy fog and rocks also hauntingly cling to the coastline. Sandy rivers reach the sea in several places along this coast, marking a series of green ribbons that randomly streak the land. Beside the sea, highly specialised vegetation such as lithops and lichen thrive on the air-borne moisture, whilst there are large seal colonies at Cape Cross and Frio that's worth a visit. Namibia - Skeleton Coast | Somak Holidays Namibia skeleton coast Namibia - Skeleton Coast The Skeleton Coast is normally associated with famous shipwrecks, and stories abound of sailors walking for hundreds of kilometres through this barren Namibian landscape in search of food and water. Despite the aridity of the area, the Skeleton Coast has a greater variety of animal species than many other parks in Southern Africa.

Large mammals include Namibia's famous desert-adapted elephant, black rhino, lion, cheetah, giraffe, gemsbok, zebra, springbok and spotted and brown hyena, are found in the dry river beds which flow from the interior of Namibia, through the Namib Desert to the Skeleton Coast. Namibia Panorama 10 Nights Explore the Namib Desert, the apricot coloured dunes of Sossusvlei, the quaint Germanic architecture in the coastal town of Swakopmond, nestled between the Ocean and the Desert, the rough terrain of Damaraland and the abundant wildlife in the world renowned Etosha National Park. ×Close Somak's Sun Ratings info We have devised a ratings system based on our opinions and those of our customers, rather than local or international ratings. Somak's 'Sun' ratings give an overall view of a property and take account of factors such as accommodation, food, facilities and service. As standards of accommodation vary from country to country, Somak's 'Sun' ratings reflect the standards to be expected within one particular country or region. It is generally not appropriate to compare ratings from one country to another. selection of the finest hotels and tours featured in our portfolio.

The holidays bearing the Connoisseur Collection logo, offer high levels of quality and exclusivity. First-class standards of accommodation and service, usually with an excellent range of facilities. Good standards of accommodation and a range of facilities. Comfortable accommodation offering medium-class facilities. Close Somak are an award-winning tour operator with almost 50 years' experience in organising African safari holidays. Our team are passionate about African travel and enjoy creating holidays to Kenya, Tanzania, South Africa, Botswana, Zambia, Namibia, Uganda, Rwanda, Mozambique and Ethiopia. Newsletter Sign up Subscribe to our newsletter and stay up to date with the latest news and deals! Subscribe

Question: The Skeleton Coast is to be found in which African country?
Answer: NAMIBIA