How Many Strings Does a Standard Violin Have | uk.QACollections.com How Many Strings Does a Standard Violin Have How Many Strings Does a Standard Violin Have? There are fours strings on a standard wooden violin. These are 'G' string, 'D' string, 'A' string and the 'E' string. Related Videos Top Q&A For: How Many Strings Does a Standard Violin Have How Many Strings Does a Violin Have? A standard wooden violin has four (4) strings. These four strings are the 'G', 'D', 'A' and 'E' strings. How Many Strings on a Violin? A normal or standard violin has four strings. The four strings are the 'G' string, 'D' string, 'A' string and the 'E' string. How Many Strings Does a Banjo Have? A banjo can have four or five strings. What is considered to be a key part of country and bluegrass music, the banjo was actually imported from Africa. How Many Strings Does a Ukulele Have? The Ukulele is a Hawaiian musical instrument. It can have either four nylon or gut strings or four courses of strings.

Related Questions 5-string Violin 5-string Violin March 5, 2004 at 05:21 PM · Hi from a newbie, everyone! I'm curious about 5-string violins... Is the neck and/or bridge wider than a regular violin's to accommodate the C string? What is the exact spacing between strings? I'm asking because a friend of mine wants to make a 5-string violin himself (an electric one, if I'm not mistaken), but we can't find any here in the Philippines for comparison. I'd really appreciate your input! Thanks! BTW, thanks also to all the regulars here at Violinist.com for being such a source of inspiration and camaraderie :) Replies (11) Mike Harris March 7, 2004 at 05:13 AM · yes, some put a small viola fingerboard on a violin neck. You can also convert a 14" viola rather than a violin, getting a little better sound from the C string because of the wider ribs. I've not cared for the standard violin fingerboard for a 5-string--the strings are too close together.

There should be some 5-string discussions in the archives of this site, no? Stephen Perry March 7, 2004 at 12:48 PM · Also important to distinguish 5 string violas with a deeper sound and large body. Another option. The conversions don't do as well as a specifically 5 string instrument. I'd like to make one, but I don't have time to do such things on spec. March 10, 2004 at 07:50 AM · Nancy, Stephen, Mike: Wow, thanks for the insights! Really big help. Is a 5-string much harder to play than a regular violin? Do you have to "reach" higher with your bowarm just to get to the C string? Kevin Daugherty March 10, 2004 at 04:36 PM · Yamaha makes a five string electric violin if you want to compare. Just go to their site. The specs are given for all their violins, and maybe they would even answer any questions you have.

Kevin Fred Ott April 26, 2004 at 03:03 PM · I converted my Cremoma violin and viola to 5 strings. Any good repairman or maker could do it on your existing instrument if there's room. Send me an email to mr_v8horsepower@msn.com and I'll send you some pictures of the completed project. Dumitru Lazarescu April 27, 2004 at 11:18 PM · Yes, the neck is slightly wider than the 4 string. I am making plans, as we speak, for a 6 string electric violin, E-A-D-G-C-F from highest to lowest. If you simply want to sound lower than a regular violin, then putting violectra (or octave violin) strings on would suffice.

I have a ZETA solid body violin and I put strings on it like this: Replace the E string with a violin D string and tune a whole tone higher (to E); Replace the A string with a violin G string and tune a whole tone higher (to A); Replace the D string with a viola C string and tune a whole tone higher (to D); For the G string, you need to have a cello C string and cut it accordingly, tuning it to G. This takes a little experimenting to find which brand works best for you. Beware of both fittings, at the peg and at the tail piece, where the cello string has to go in. There is a more expensive way, simply buying the Violectra (or Octave Violin) string set from Thomastik. The whole violin will sound an octave lower, and will sound great if amplified. Good luck. Timothy James Dimacali June 9, 2004 at 07:38 AM · Hi, all. I haven't visited this thread in a couple of months, so I'm pleasantly surprised that it's still going. Mr. Lazarescu, your suggestion to use larger strings is interesting.

I'll try it out once the instrument is complete. :-D To update everyone who might be curious, my luthier friend showed me a prototype a some time ago. He opted to go all-electric, and I gave him what meager advice I could give plus all the tips I received from all of you. You've all been a great help! Thank you so much :-) Interestingly, his electric system includes a magnetic pickup under the strings AND a transducer pickup embedded in the body. A switch on the violin's shoulder allows the player to engage and disengage the transducer, which changes the sound from bright to mellow, respectively. His "bridge" is a metal extension of the body itself (also made of metal). What we're working on right now is how to set the curve of the bridge in relation to the curve of the fingerboard. On a standard violin, whereas the fingerboard exhibits a regular curve, the bridge is curved in such a way that the lowest (G) string rests higher above the fingerboard than the highest (E) string. We're wondering: is this curve really necessary in an electric violin?

I haven't seen the revised instrument, but my friend has assured me that it's in its "finishing stages" --whatever that means, LOL. Once again, thanks for all your help and support. I promise to post pictures and (if possible) a sound clip for everyone to see when it's done. Honestly, it's slow going but easy does it! :-) Barry Dudley May 15, 2010 at 02:05 PM · I have specialized in making 5 string violins and there are of course there are differences in the spacing of the strings. Either the strings have to be closer together or the neck has to be wider. The third option is a little of both. I have a standard width/spacing that most people like, but many clients ask for certain spacing that is comfortable for them. Roland Garrison May 15, 2010 at 04:07 PM · I've played a couple 5 string violins, and I think the neck width must be a personal preference. One I purchased sounded wonderful, but I sold it, as the neck was too narrow for my fingers.

I loved the sound, the C was not as difficult to access as I was expecting, but the strings were too close. I had the opportunity to play another, a CF by Stuart Rochon, and I loved the spacing. It was wider, and the C was very comfortable to play. The player that was evaluating it before me felt the neck was too wide; it may have been for her, but for me it was perfect. One other consideration aside from width is the neck shape and depth. The CF neck was very easy to play, and I did not have as much trouble on the C of that as I have with the G of my favorite violin. The depth and overall shape of the neck is the reason. 5-string violin vs. 5-string viola on The Session . Re: 5-string violin vs. 5-string viola Unless you are going electric, there are going to be compromises with both. the top e on a viola 5 string will be thin and the c on the violin will not be strong enough. This is not just to do with the shape, but to get the bass, the bass bar will be bigger and top relatively thinner. Have you thought about getting an octave?

I made a five string but it did not turn out too well, apart from the sound it was very difficult to play fast. I thinned the top and put a huge bass bar in and turned it into an octave. It has no difficulty getting heard over a dozen other fiddles, and has good sound over the entire range. . Re: 5-string violin vs. 5-string viola I play a five-string regularly and I would recommend going the viola route over the violin route. I currently use a heavy gauge A and E, and that helps with the thinness that did occur in my case. If you are looking for a deeper sound you might just consider stringing up a small viola with violin strings and skip having a fifth string. I think that part of the problem I have with thinner sounding higher strings is the added pressure of the C string. When I have taken my C string off and just play it as a four string, my sound totally changes. I really don’t need a five string in most Celtic settings but really need it in other settings. I would not recommend a five-string unless you have a specific need for the extra string because there are going to be sacrifices.

And yes, it does sound deeper and darker than my four-string and I do like that a lot. Cheers . Re: 5-string violin vs. 5-string viola If your main problem is that the 4-string violin is too bright and harsh sounding, you could try different strings before resorting to another instrument (if you haven’t tried that already). A lot of fiddlers use steel strings, which are bright and a bit harsh sounding. Gut-core strings are much more warm and mellow, but are expensive and don’t last as long. Synthetic-core strings are something of a compromise between those two types. I use Pirastro Oliv (gut-core) strings myself, which are an odd choice for fiddling but have something like the sound you seem to want. They’re painfully expensive, though, and they don’t really have that "fiddle" sound…they also aren’t as responsive as steel strings. . Re: 5-string violin vs. 5-string viola As Tlittlewazzock implied, a bigger base bar makes the sound louder, by spreading the vibrations over a larger part of the belly.

A baroque fiddle, in its original setup had a comparatively short base bar and a corresponding lighter tone (helped along by other factors such as uncovered gut strings and a lower pitch). The base bar was lengthened (and other modifications made) over the next century or so to provide the bigger sound demanded by the increased size of orchestras of the 19th century through to the present day. As Llig and Tlittlewazzock say, you’ll always be running into tonal problems if you try to make acoustic 5-string violins/violas. Similar effects have been observed when guitar luthiers have made Spanish (classical) guitars with more than 6 courses. 10-course guitars have been made, and one I heard, played by the great classical guitarist Narciso Yepes had a remarkably dull tonal quality, quite inappropriate, I thought, for a player of his eminence. Btw, I can assure you that Tlittlewazzock and What?!!? really do know about fiddles in great depth. Re: 5-string violin vs.

5-string viola llig leahcim, the whole reason for ASKING what I am asking is to find out WHY, as you say, "they are completely different things" I would rather you EXPLAIN why they are different in real concrete terms rather than complain about me asking the question. I’m sure YOU know why (esp. since you seem to play both), but I don’t!! Lazyhound, thanks for the more thought out answer - THAT is what I’m trying to learn here. I’ve never played a 5-string of either type (none to found close to home here), so I am trying to learn a bit about them before I range farther afield to look for them. I guess a weaker sounding bottom C wouldn’t bother me all that much if the G/D had a more resonant sound (like the recordings I mentioned) than a standard violin. What type of adjustments could be made to a standard violin that sounds too brite to darken the tone, other than strings? I have tried a couple of different steel sets, Thomastick Dominants, and Piastro Tonicas, none of which really did the job for me. . Re: 5-string violin vs.

5-string viola I play 5 string fiddles most of the time - although I have 2 four string ones as well. The five strings have a much more woody sound and the slight extra depth of the instrument gives more resonance. The bottom C string can be tuned up to a D and used as a drone. The C string also makes the G string sound a lot better than on the 4 strings - I don’t do the physics side but when fiddles are in tune you get a sort of sympathetic ringing. Only downside - besides the extra cost of re-stringing!! - is that I have to be more careful when jumping to the G string not to catch the C string. Although the spacing is slightly different, it only took me a couple of days before I could go from 5 string to 4 string without thinking!! I don’t want anything lower than the C string so I’ve never thought of getting a viola - besides which, I have very short fingers and the advantage of the 5 string is getting the extra depth with virtually no increase in instrument size. My acoustic 5 strings are Tim Phillips but I also have a Yamaha 5 string for band work. Re: 5-string violin vs.

5-string viola bb, I LOVE the sound of a fiddle, which is why I play it. I just happen to not like the way mine is sounding of late — too shrill. I’m going to bring it to a luthier to see what can be done, but… Tarantella, thanks for the info. I have been looking at a 5 string from G. Edward Lutherie called the Dahlia 5 which, from the small sound sample I found on a site that carries the, sounds pretty balanced and dark sounding. It keeps the standard string spacing of a 4 string on a wider neck, and a wider body than a standard 4 string. I would guess it makes the transition to the 5-string easier if the string spacing is the same. . Re: 5-string violin vs. 5-string viola jlg, If it were me, I’d try to make the instrument I have work before I started buying others. That is, unless you are yet another of the many victims of Instrument Aquisition Syndrome. That said, going to a luthier is a good start. Explain to him/her just what you are seeking, maybe even play the recording you spoke of as an example.

Granted, the instrument itself will determine just what sound it is capable of. A competent luthier can pull a wide range of tonal qualities from an instrument just by adjusting the sound post, for example. According to the luthier I use, often different weight strings require different sound post adjustments. There may be a new bridge in your future. Also, Dr. Thomastik markets strings under the Infeld label. A violin teacher told me about them. They come in two flavors, red and blue. The reds give a deeper, meatier tone (the teacher’s words), where the blues give a brighter sound. I have been happy with the reds for a couple of years now, but that’s my instrument, my ears. One can also mix ‘n match strings to obtain something closer to the sound you seek. Kevin Burke told us that’s how he does it in a workshop he led a couple of years ago. Does one require the skill and experience of a Kevin Burke to do this? I dunno, but it does seem an expensive proposition, trying all those different strings. Not like you can return the ones you don’t like. Good luck . Re: 5-string violin vs.

5-string viola I am a violin maker who is specializing in 5 string violins. The 5th string obviously gives the player the ability to play licks not possible with either a violin or a viola. Most violin players really miss the sparkle of the "E" string when they go to the viola for Celtic, Jazz or bluegrass type music. I have approached it from a different perspective. I have a purpose built 5 string and not a 4 string with a 5th string jammed into it. I started with a "dark" violin as a pattern…the del Gesu "Cannone" and slightly increased the size to create a larger air resonance chamber for the "C" string to work and have power. The "E" string still has sparkle without being harsh. The instrument is still a size that even a small handed lady can easily and comfortably play unlike a viola which can sometimes be too large. . Re: 5-string violin vs. 5-string viola I think Stradibarrius above has very sound reasoning in making ‘a purpose built 5 string’. Sure, regular 4 string fiddles and violas are quite different from each other, as mentioned earlier.

However, my experience is that a decent 5 string is something else, discernably different from either of those, not just ‘a fiddle with a C string’ or ‘a viola with an E’ . I currently have a 5 string cello (sorry, the maker calls it a ‘baroque alto’), copied from an Amati cello built as a 5 string in something like 1580, and a 5 string 15.5" viola of the Chinese persuasion, again built as a 5 string. A good 5 string fiddle is unlikely to sound like a violin from the E down to the G and like a viola on the C. 5 string violins I’ve played with regular size bodies (half a dozen) may sound like violins G to E, but to my ear they just didn’t cut it on the C string. The standard fiddle body isn’t big enough to resonate that note properly and standard violin top thicknessing, bass bar, etc., isn’t designed for it. Violin scale length instruments with larger air chambers (ie the body) can be very successful, though, as Stradibarrius suggests above.

Those I’ve played have sounded darker than a regular violin, but consistent over all 5 strings. I’m going that route soon as my 5 string viola is starting to make my back ache. My 5 string cello has a smaller than usual body and scale length - to allow the high E string to resonate better. This one blows out of the water any theory that God made fiddles as 4 string, as the cello developed from the viol family, which I believe most commonly had 6 strings, sometimes 7 or more. At the time my cello was made, you could buy them with 3, 4 , or 5 strings, and in different body sizes depending on what you were going to use them for. My 5 string viola isn’t as dark or nasal as a good viola can be, but it’s close enough to be recognisably a viola. The E is softer in tone than a violin E, but I have yet to experiment with a high tension E string. E strings can be a problem on big violas - I’m told they break too often over about 16" body length.

So if you buy a 5 string, you won’t sound like everyone else (unless you get one with a standard violin body and a duff C string). You will have to be of a mind to experiment with strings, though, and accommodate a few tuning differences. Most 5 strings don’t ‘ring’ on 5ths in the way 4 strings do, so they can be more difficult to get in tune. Once in tune, they don’t play like a 4 string either - some are more difficult to voice chords on. The middle string is about equidistant from each bridge foot, so you can have problems matching that string to the others - my cello needs a wolf note suppressor on it. The internals of fiddles have been optimised for 4 string tension, pitch, and resonance over the years, so 5 string makers often adjust things to suit 5 strings - I think that’s why converted 4 stringers often sound disappointing. Now, here’s the big difference - string spacing. Most people who make 5 strings (and most of them in terms of quantity are probably Chinese via Ebay) either use a standard neck width or a slightly wider neck.

Don’t buy one of those unless you’ve played a 5 string like that and like it. The string spacing will be far too close to double stop properly, and chances are you’ll have trouble bowing without hitting other strings. You need a really wide fingerboard on a 5 string, unless you never play 2 notes together other than 5ths. Unless you’re used to 5 strings, If it feels comfortable the first time you pick up a 5 string, it’s too narrow! If you want to get an idea what a 5 string fingerboard should look like, google Tim Phillips’ fiddle website (no, I don’t have any connection, or own one of his instruments). He makes lots of 5 strings for folk players, so he knows what they need. Finally, once you get a 5 string you’ll find yourself wandering off into all kinds of musical avenues. With a 5 string fiddle or viola, you have enough bass to provide reasonable accompaniment to another fiddler. You’ll find you can pick which octave you want to play some fiddle tunes in, and swap between them. There’s also more available for double stopping and droning.

With a high E tuned 5 string cello you can play many fiddle tunes with the fiddles without going any distance up the neck, which sounds cool (and sometimes hacks them off the egotists among the fiddlers…). So, 5 stringers aren’t for everybody and they can be a hassle, but also they’re a lot of fun and they open new avenues. I’d suggest they’re more suited to determined individualists, so if you’d rather be with the crowd you might prefer not to have the hassle. My next ambition is a 6 string Steinberger electric cello - that has double bass at one end and fiddle tunes at the other. Rab (or Max, if anyone here knows me - from S.M.O?) Learning Center - Strings | Southwest Strings Learning Center Strings Heights String heights are the distance between the strings and the top of the fingerboard measured at the end. String heights are crucial to playability and projection. Strings that are too low can buzz, while strings that are too high can be difficult to play.

Correct Standard String Heights (4/4 size, gut/standard) Violin (C) 8.0 - 8.5mm Distance Usually the distance from the center of the bridge to the fret of the tailpiece (after length) is 1/6 that of the length of the strings measured from the center of the bridge to the fret of the fingerboard (effective string length). The distance of the tailpiece from the bridge influences the sound of an instrument. If the tailpiece is too close to the bridge, the instrument will sound soft and weak; too far and the sound will be stiff and harsh. The tail gut is used to make this adjustment; never the bridge. The weight of the tailpiece also affects the sound. A lighter weight tailpiece usually allows an instrument to vibrate more freely. Thus the instrument will project more and have a more open, resonant tone. String Care and Installation Both the placement of peg holes in the peg box and placement of string holes in the pegs are important for string performance and longevity. There must be proper bottom clearance between the back of the peg box and the extra string length when wound on the peg. Improperly placed string peg holes will make tuning very difficult.

Before installing new strings, rub nut grooves with a #2 pencil. This allows strings to slide easily and prevents breakage. Replace strings one at a time. This keeps the bridge in place, avoids drastic changes to the top of the instrument and eliminates the possibility of the soundpost falling or moving. Install string in tailpiece, then place string in the peg string hole. Wind the string toward the peg cup. Strings will last longer if they do not rub against the peg box. Violin & Viola Size Chart: Expert Advice from a Teacher/Symphony Musician "What size violin should I buy?" "Can my ten-year-old play a full size (4/4) violin?" "How do I size my child for a violin?" "Does a small adult play a full size violin or a 7/8?" "What size bow should I use with my viola?" Professional violin and viola teacher Rhiannon Nachbaur of Fiddleheads Violin Studio has compiled the following charts to assist violinists, violists and fiddlers in selecting the correct sized instrument for themselves or their children. Please refer to the information below the chart and instructions for further expert advice.

Thank you for visiting and please contact us if you require any assistance. We hope our superb service earns your business. Further Instructions 1. Age of Player Some children are exceptions to the rule, but this chart provides a general age range for these instruments. As a teacher I have worked with 10-year-olds who played full size violins. The most important thing in deciding the correct size is that the student can comfortably play the instrument in tune. Fourth finger, or pinky, reach and intonation (can it be played in tune?) may be the deciding factor. Rory, the lovely Fiddleheads student pictured at the left at age 12, played a full size starting on her 10th birthday! It looked a bit big, but she could play it in tune and truly appreciated the bigger sound the full size produced. She grew into it over the summer and her parents were glad they didn't buy a 3/4 or else she would have outgrown it in a few months. A All adults use a full size violin, with the exception of very small adults and some teens who are more the size of a child.

These players will sometimes play a 3/4, though they will get a better sound from a 7/8 size violin. The advantage to a 7/8 is a big sound with a smaller scale for playability. 7/8 size violins are more difficult to locate used, however most of our new violins are available in 7/8 size [such as Sun and Zhu violins] and we can also have a violin custom made for you. Contact us for more info 2. Player's Arm Length To accurately discern which size is correct for the player, run a measuring tape from the left side of the player's neck to palm of their outstretched left arm and second time from the neck to the wrist. (The arm must not be bent at the elbow and is at a right angle to the body. Palm faces up at the ceiling) Violists: measure from neck to palm at the base of the fingers, not the wrist. Violas are sized large. Check the measurements on the violin chart above: PALM: The neck to palm measurement indicates the largest size that would be appropriate.

Only go larger than this size if the child is growing rather quickly and if you are certain the teacher will not object to the large violin. WRIST: The neck to wrist measurement provides a comfortable size. Suzuki teachers in particular are trained to teach players on a violin fitting this way (not too large). As stated in point 1, the most important thing in playing a large-ish instrument is that the player can comfortably play in tune. (again, 4th finger intonation may be the deciding factor). Please note that even left-handed players play a regular, right-handed violin. Lefties need not worry they can't play the violin! I have taught many lefties and they play the same as everyone else. Even simpler If you have the violin you are trying to size with the young student you can simply check it against the player's arm. Have the student hold the violin up on the left shoulder (see photos, coming soon) and extending out 45 degrees from their side (not in the front, not to the side.) Next, ask the player to reach from under the violin to the scroll (curly end) of the violin with their outstretched left hand, curving the fingers around the scroll from below.

If the left elbow is slightly bent and comfortable the violin is the proper size. If the elbow is straight and/or the player cannot reach the scroll the instrument is too large. Finally, if the elbow is bent at a smaller than 90 degree angle and appears very easy to reach the violin may be too small. For more help on purchasing the correct size from our shop please take your measurements and contact us prior to your order from us. 3. Violin or Viola Size Shown Rhiannon's 15" Zhu VA-909 Viola (Left) and 4/4 Zhu VN-909 Violin (Right). The Viola is a Tertis model and the Violin is a Guarneri model. Fiddleheads sells these fine instruments from the VSA award-winning maker. Click Here Violins are either "full size" or "fractional. Adults, teens and children age 10-12 play full size. Children play 3/4 and smaller violins depending on their size. The bow used matches the size of the instrument. For example, a 3/4 violin is paired with a 3/4 size violin bow .

*Note that Violas are not sized like violins in fractions, rather they are measured by the length of their bodies in inches. For example, a typical sized viola for a student age 12 has a body 15.5" in length and the same sizing rules do not apply as violas are expected to fit a bit big, but not so big as to tire the player. I tend to recommend violas on the smaller side. Selecting a viola with a big tone is better than a too-large viola for the player. 4. Violin Measurements (Length- Body/Total) These measurements vary from maker to maker by as much as 3/4". If you are unsure which sized instrument you have, carefully take two measurements with a tape or string. Violas only require one measurement; the body (measurement #2). 1. Measure first the violin the length of the violin from the top of the scroll to the bottom (excluding the end pin at the bottom). 2. Next measure the body from the "shoulders" of the violin to the bottom. Do not include the jutting-out section at the base of the violin's neck in your measurements.

*Note that the width of the violin (measuring the upper or lower "bout") varies widely from maker to maker or style to style. Instruments made in the style of Guarneri tend to have wider lower bouts than Strad models, and thus a bigger volume and depth of tone. Oversized Violins: Some Suggestions So your child is growing like a weed and is too big for the 1/4 violin you purchased last year. Should you buy a 1/2 size violin, which would fit now but may be too small in 6 months? Or should you skip to a 3/4 and let him grow into it? As a teacher I encounter this dilemma frequently and make the decision to skip a size on a case by case basis. Choosing to use a larger violin can be a wise choice if the student is growing rapidly and if you are paying a bit more to have a better quality, larger violin rather than buying an intermediate violin and replacing it soon after. Rather than buying two cheaper violins one after another, the larger violin would be used longer, thus it would make sense to invest a bit more money into it.

In my time teaching I have had many students skip a size and only once was it not a wise choice. The 10-year-old girl's family had a good line on a nice 3/4 violin, but it was an inch or so too large. Taking her age into consideration, as well as the quality of the instrument in question, we thought it best for her to take the jump. Strangely though the small, young girl did not grow at all for three years! Now, at 15 years old, the violin fits her perfectly, though most people at this age are in a 4/4. She was just destined to be petite. We realise the jump was not appropriate for her; but how do you know the child will stop growing? Thankfully the girl's mother and I laugh at the situation now and all worry is gone: She plays wonderfullly. If anything, the student really learned to stretch for her 4th finger notes and has excellent intonation! The important thing here is that the student is able to or very close to playing the 4th finger. If they can reach this fingering the violin will be usable.

For children skipping a size and playing a slightly large violin you should carefully consider playing a lighter weight violin over a heavy one. Heavier or bulkier violins can be harder to hold up, overextended for long periods of time causing the student to not want to practice for long. A student who has quit never saves the parents money on the violin purchase! Another suggestion here is to use a shoulder rest to aid in holding a violin which is too large and needs more support. 5. Bows **Viola bows are only available in "full" size. Violists seeking fractional sized bows simply use a violin bow. For example, a 14" viola player would use a 4/4 violin bow, a 13" viola player would use a 3/4 size violin bow. "Full" viola bows are the same length as a 4/4 violin bow . The way to determine the difference is that a viola bow's frog is rounded on the corner. A violin bow has a square corner on the frog. Feedback Thanks for explaining the difference with violin sizes; Thanks for enlightening me; sounds like you do a wonderful service and helping violin players; am glad you do this.

- Bev, Kelowna, BC Contact Us Please feel free to contact Fiddleheads Violin Studio with any questions you may have regarding sizing in order to purchase any of our instruments for sale . We hope we can earn your business with our exceptional service and expertise and add your testimonial to our growing list. Thank you for Shopping at Fiddleheads. Think of shopping at Fiddleheads as walking into a local violin shop.Rhiannon is happy to take the time to personally invoice you to combine shipping for multiple items on the site and not listed. And, yes, Fiddleheads ships anywhere; Just ask to get award-winning, personal help. PayPal.Me is a fast, easy and more secure way for customers to send us payments. Here is our direct link: paypal.me/fiddleheads Violins, bows and cases are shipped Canada Post Expedited service (arrives via USPS in the USA) and takes about 2-6 days on average. Shoulder rests ship via Xpresspost within Canda (1-4 days) or Airmail to USA (2-6 days). Copyright © 2004-2017 RHIANNON NACHBAUR; All rights reserved.

Violin Strings characteristically produce a fundamental resonance plus all the string harmonics . The sound of the instrument is enhanced by body resonances including the air resonance of the f-holes . The Violin The violin, the most commonly used member of the modern string family, is the highest-sounding instrument of that group. The strings are tuned a fifth apart which in equal temperament gives frequencies G3(196 Hz), D4(293.7 Hz), A4, E5(659.3 Hz) using the A4 = 440Hz standard. Musical groups in the western hemisphere typically tune to equal temperament in agreement with the piano keyboard , but the violin family of instruments is not constrained to play in equal temperament because there are no frets on the fingerboard as found on the guitar to determine the musical intervals. Go Back Some Violin Details The violin, the most commonly used member of the modern string family, is the highest-sounding instrument of that group. Its four strings are stretched over a high arched bridge that permits the playing of one or two strings at a time, as well as the nearly simultaneous sounding of three or four as chords.

The overall length of the violin averages about 60 cm (23.5 in), whereas the sounding length of the strings, from bridge to the nut at the end of the fingerboard, is about 32 cm (12.75 in). The instrument is held on the left side of the body, while the right hand holds the bow. The wider end of the instrument is placed between the player's left shoulder and chin, while the left hand encircles its neck, the fingers stopping the strings to produce the various pitches. Sound is produced by drawing the bow across the strings to make them vibrate, or by plucking the strings (PIZZICATO). The range of the violin extends from G, the lowest open string, upward nearly four octaves. The strings are tuned a fifth apart at G3(196 Hz), D4(293.7 Hz), A4, E5(659.3 Hz) if tuned in equal temperament with the A4 = 440Hz standard.

But there are no frets on the fingerboard as found on the guitar, so the player can continuously tune the intervals to any desired pitch in the string's frequency range and play the intervals in any system of temperament . With an ensemble of such instruments, like a string quartet with cello and string bass, the players can experiment with different tunings of the intervals since they are not constrained by frets. Many consider that violin making reached its pinnacle in the work of Antonio Stradivari and Guiseppe Guarneri in the 18th century. Although the basic construction of the violin has been long established, the subtle variations which make an outstanding violin are the stuff of legend. The sound quality can be changed considerably by the place where the string is bowed. If bowed close to the bridge (sul ponticello) then the sound is brighter with more harmonic content . If bowed further from the bridge (sul tasto) then the sound is darker, more mellow with less harmonic content. Go Back Violin Construction The modern violin consists of about seventy parts.

Parts include the belly, the back, the ribs, inside blocks, inside lining, bass bar, purfling, finger board, neck, scroll, nut, lower nut, tailpiece, loop, end button, pegs, strings, bridge , and the sound post. The body of the violin is a hollow box which measures about 35.5 cm in length. The back, the neck, the ribs and the bridge are usually made of maple. The belly, linings, and the soundpost are usually made of spruce. Scrupulous care is taken in selecting and shaping the belly and back. They must be adjusted to certain frequencies before assembly in order for the main wood resonance of the instrument to be of the apppropriate strength and pitch. Go Back Violin Bridge The action of the violin bridge is essential to the tone of the instrument. It's shape and function have been developed over centuries. Underneath the treble side of the bridge (where the E string rests) is the sound post which extends from the front to the back plate of the instrument. Since this side of the bridge rests on this post, it is essentially fixed and acts as a pivot for the rocking motion of the remainder of the bridge.

It does however, couple the sound energy from the top plate to the back plate of the instrument. Underneath the bass side of the bridge (where the G string rests), a long, thin wooden strip called the bass bar is attached, almost parallel to the strings. This bass foot of the bridge is more free to move, and its motion is the point of transfer of energy from the strings to the top plate of the instrument. The extended bass bar helps it to transfer the energy to a larger area of the top plate. As can be seen from the diagram, the amplitude of motion is larger for the bass strings. This is desirable for balance of loudness, since the sensitivity of the ear drops off a bit toward the lower frequencies of the instrument. Violin Strings, Violin String, Violin Strings for Sale | JustStrings.com Home > Orchestral Strings > Violin Strings Violin Strings Check out our huge selection of Violin strings by clicking on the brands below. Complete sets and a selection of individual violin strings are listed in the sections below. See also Fiddle Originally, violin strings were made of gut.�In the 18th century, violinists began to use G strings wound with metal wire in order to improve their tone.

Gradually, people began to use wound D and A strings too. Each violin string had a core of gut, and the E string was still usually all gut. This continued until the mid 20th century, when new developments in string making technology allowed the use of nylon core and steel strings. Now most players use nylon or steel core violin strings, with the G, D, and A being wound with metal and the E usually being plain steel, which is far more durable than gut as well as possessing a clearer tone. At Just Strings, we have a wide variety of violin strings for sale. Sets of violin strings are available to fit many sizes of violin. A standard violin is 4/4 size.�Common fractional sizes are 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, ½ and ¾. We have a substantial fractional size violin string selection, and carry all of the above sizes. If the description of a set of violin strings does not specifically state that it is not 4/4 size, it is usually safe to assume that it is 4/4 size. Smaller sizes will have clear descriptions of their size.

The violin is the smallest member of the family of instruments that includes the violin, viola, cello, and depending on its construction, the double bass. It is perhaps one of the best known of all instruments in the western world. The violin, and its siblings, the viola and cello, are offshoots in design from renaissance fiddles (used in this context to describe any stringed instrument) and viols. Unlike a viol, the violin is fretless, which enables the player to play any note along the string.�This makes it useful beyond the boundaries of Western classical music, since the violin is capable of playing any note whatsoever in its range, and is not limited to Western scales.�Despite this, the violin has been and remains most popular in Western style classical and symphonic music. The violin has remained largely unchanged for over 400 years. Of course, beyond the basic shape, there are many differences between modern violins and those of the 16th and 17th centuries. Today�s violin is designed to be strung with much higher tension violin strings than earlier instruments.

This change came about sometime in the late 19th century, as part of a quest to make the instrument louder.�The fingerboard of a modern violin is considerably longer than that of 16th century instruments, giving the modern instrument much greater range.�Today, the bridge of the violin is positioned between the f-holes, rather than below them, giving the instrument a much shorter scale length. Despite these and a few other simple differences, a violinist from 1600 would have no difficulty whatsoever identifying and playing a violin today. At Just Strings we have violin strings for sale suitable for any player today. Quick Links Measurements - Violin Information Violin Information Average Body Length of Instruments When determining an instruments size, the measurement is taken by measuring the length of the back from next to the neck button down to the end by the endpin. Distance "B" is the one that you want and measurements may differ from one manufacturer to another, and from instrument to instrument. Looking from the back and often the easiest way to measure (next photo), take a flexible tape measure and measure the distance as shown with the arrow. See the sizing charts below in this section.

The total length "A" is not used to determine instrument size since neck length can vary by 1/2" causing an incorrect sizing. However, those general measurements are also given below in the Standard Measurements section below. Note: Another important measurement in determining if an instrument is suitable, is the Mensur ratio. This is the ratio of the neck length(distance from nut to the upper edge of the top) : stop length(distance from the upper edge to the bridge). If the Mensur ratio is off, it can make the instrument difficult to play and I have even seen injuries to the the tendons from a poorly set up/made instrument. This was specifically noted on a viola where someone was trying to make a large viola easier to play for a small player by shortening the neck length, it took 6 months and lots of physical therapy for the player to recover. The Mensur ratio on the violin should be 2:3 (most typically 130:195 mm for 4/4 violin). These measurements can be seen in the Makers Measurements section.

1/16 15 Violins come in 9 different sizes: 4/4 (also called Full size), 7/8, 3/4, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/10, 1/16 and 1/32. All adults unless especially short use the 4/4 violin. The 7/8, originally referred to as a "ladies violin" is used by those who want a full-size violin sound but whose hand might be a little small for the full size violin. Some teachers prefer students to use the measurement from the neck to the wrist instead of the neck to mid-palm measurement. The neck to wrist measurement runs a little smaller and is the size that is more comfortable for students to hold. The violin size determined by the neck to mid-palm measurement is the largest size students should use. You should ask for your teacher's recommendation. Violin Sizes by Age: A more general way of determining the size is by age nut it is not as accurate as the other two procedures. Violin Size

Question: How many strings are there on a standard violin?
Answer: Four