Wasp and bee control : Insects : University of Minnesota Extension University of Minnesota Extension Extension > Garden > Insects > Wasp and bee control Social Wasps and Bees in the Upper Midwest Jeff Hahn, Laura Jesse and Patrick Liesch Introduction Wasp is a general term referring to a group of related insects in the order Hymenoptera (wasps, bees and ants). Although some wasps are solitary, i.e. just one adult female per nest, this publication discusses social wasps, i.e. multiple individuals sharing one nest. Most social wasps belong to the family Vespidae (sometimes referred to as vespid wasps). There are three types of social wasps in the upper Midwest. Two groups, the yellowjackets and paper wasps, are very common. The third group, the true hornets, is not found in this area. Despite its name, a baldfaced hornet is actually a type of yellowjacket. Similarly, there are social and solitary bees. The family Apidae contains some of the most familiar social bees. Honey bees and bumble bees are two commonly observed bees in the upper Midwest. Like social wasps, a colony will consist of many individual bees working together.

Wasps and bees are beneficial insects. Bees are particularly valuable because of their role in plant pollination, including many agricultural crops. Wasps also pollinate to a much lesser extent and are important because they feed on a wide range of insects, including many common garden pests. Both wasps and bees have the potential to sting although they will generally not bother people if they are left alone. People often mistakenly call all stinging insects "bees." While both social wasps and bees generally live in colonies with queens and workers, they look and behave differently. It is important to distinguish between these insects because different methods may be necessary to deal with them if they are encountered. Identification Yellowjackets, including baldfaced hornets (Vespula and Dolichovespula spp.) Yellowjackets (Vespula sp.) are approximately 1/2 inch long (they range in size from 3/8 to 5/8 inch long), are bright yellow with black lines, spots, triangles or diamonds on their abdomen (figures 1, 11, 13, and 22). Different species have different color patterns (there are about 14 species of yellowjackets in the upper Midwest).

The body is hard and shiny with few hairs. At rest the wings fold into a narrow strip atop the abdomen. Yellowjackets are often misidentified as honey bees; they can be most easily distinguished by the lack of body hairs and their brighter yellow coloration compared to the more golden brown coloration of honey bees. Baldfaced hornets (Dolichovespula maculata) are large, black insects about 7/8 of an inch long with white to cream-colored markings on the front of the head and at the end of the abdomen (figure 2). Jeff Hahn, University of Minnesota Fig. 1 Typical yellowjacket Jeff Hahn, University of Minnesota Fig. 2 Baldfaced hornet Paper wasps (Polistes spp.) Paper wasps are slender with long legs that dangle beneath their bodies when they fly and measure from 1/2 to 1 inch long. They are generally brown with yellowish markings (figures 3 and 7). The European paper wasp (P. dominula) is a species that was introduced into the U.S. in the 1970's and found in the Midwest in the 2000's.

European paper wasps are black and yellow in coloration and resemble yellowjackets (figures 4 and 17). Jeff Hahn, University of Minnesota Fig. 3 Typical paper wasp Jeff Hahn, University of Minnesota Fig. 4 European paper wasp Honey bees (Apis mellifera) Honey bees are approximately 1/2 inch long. They are golden brown with thin black stripes on their abdomen. They are fuzzy in appearance; the thorax, especially, is covered with branches or plumose hairs (figures 5, 8, and 18). Part of each hind leg is flattened for collecting pollen. When not flying, their wings usually lay flat and unfolded atop their abdomen. Jeff Hahn, University of Minnesota Fig. 5 Honey bee Bumble bees (Bombus spp.) Bumble bees range in size from less than 1/2 inch to an inch and are very fuzzy in appearance. There are many different bumble bee species common in the Midwest. Most species have a black and yellow coloration although some species may be other colors as well. All bumble bees have a roundish shape (figures 6 and 21). Laura Jesse, Iowa State University Fig.

6 Typical bumble bee Biology Food preferences Yellowjackets and paper wasps capture a variety of insects, spiders, and other arthropods which they feed to their young (figure 7). They are beneficial because their food includes caterpillars, flies, crickets, and other pests. Adults feed primarily on sources of sugar, such as the juices of ripening and overripe fruits and honeydew (a sugary substance secreted by certain insects, like aphids). Paper wasps also feed on the nectar of flowers, yellowjackets infrequently do this. During late summer and fall, some species of yellowjackets become aggressive scavengers around human food and can be common outdoors where food or drinks are available. Honey bees and bumble bees feed only on nectar (carbohydrates) and pollen (protein) from flowers (figure 8). Honey bees can sometimes be found visiting bird baths, puddles, and similar sources for water. Jeff Hahn, University of Minnesota Fig. 7. Paper wasp with caterpillar prey Jeff Hahn, University of Minnesota Fig.

8 Honey bee feeding on nectar of squash flower Nesting sites Yellowjackets and baldfaced hornets make nests from a papery pulp comprised of chewed-up wood fibers mixed with saliva. Their nests consist of a series of rounded combs stacked in tiers. These combs are covered by an envelope consisting of several layers of pulp (figures 9 and 10). Yellowjackets commonly build nests below ground in old rodent burrows or similar cavities (figures 11 and 12). They can also locate their nests in other cavities, such as hollow logs and landscape timbers as well as in buildings in attics and wall voids (figures 13 and 14). Other yellowjackets, including baldfaced hornets, build aerial nests out in the open in places such as trees and under eaves of buildings (figures 9, 10 and 15). Yellowjacket and baldfaced hornet nests can number from several hundred to several thousand insects at their peak. Nests are used for just one season and not reoccupied the following season. Jeff Hahn, University of Minnesota Fig. 9 Typical yellowjacket nest Patrick Liesch, University of Wisconsin Fig.

10 Early construction of baldfaced hornet nest Jeff Hahn, University of Minnesota Fig. 11 Ground nesting yellowjackets Arthur Antonelli, Washington State University Fig. 12 Cutaway view of subterranean yellowjacket nest Jeff Hahn, University of Minnesota Fig. 13 Opening in a house leading to hidden yellowjacket nest University of Wisconsin Fig. 14 Possible hidden yellowjacket nesting sites in a home Jeff Hahn, University of Minnesota Fig. 15 Typical aerial (exposed) nest Nesting sites Paper wasps also build their nests with a papery pulp. They construct only one comb of cells without any protective envelope (figure 16, 17, and 18). These insects are sometimes known as umbrella wasps because of the shape of their nest. Paper wasps typically build nests under any horizontal surface and are commonly found on limbs, overhangs, building eaves, beams and supports in attics, garages, barns, sheds, and similar places. Paper wasp nests are generally small, often with under a dozen individuals, with a maximum numbers of about 100 wasps. Like yellowjackets, paper wasps do not reuse nests the following year.

European paper wasps differ from other paper wasps in that they will also build their nests on vertical surfaces and in cavities; they can also reuse old nests (figures 17 and 18). Jeff Hahn, University of Minnesota Fig. 16 Paper wasp nest Jeff Hahn, University of Minnesota Fig. 17 Typical European paper wasp nest Jeff Hahn, University of Minnesota Fig. 18 European paper wasps can also nest in cavities Honey bees make a series of vertical honey combs made of wax. Their colonies mostly occupy manufactured hives but they do occasionally nest in cavities in large trees, voids in building walls, or other protected areas (figures 19 and 20). Jeff Hahn, University of Minnesota Fig. 19 Closeup of honey bee combs Mike White, Iowa State University Fig. 20 Exposed honey bee combs in a tree Bumble bee colonies are often located underground in deserted rodent nests or other cavities, in compost piles, and underneath objects on the ground. Some species will nest higher up in trees or wall cavities as well as in bird houses and bird nests (figure 21). Like honey bees, bumble bees construct cells made of wax.

Jeff Hahn, University of Minnesota Fig. 21 Bumble bees nesting in birdhouse Life cycle All wasps and bees have a complete life cycle with egg, larval, pupal and adult stages. We usually only get to see the adults as the eggs and larvae are in the nests. The larvae of bees and wasps are white and typically look like grubs. Yellowjacket and paper wasp colonies survive only one year, referred to as an annual colony. Queens are the only members of the colony that survive the winter. Newly produced and mated queens leave their old nests and search for protected sites in which to overwinter, such as under loose tree bark, old rotten stumps, or within buildings, such as under siding. In April or May, each queen becomes active with warmer weather and selects a suitable location and starts to construct her nest. Each nest is built from scratch each year while the previous year's nests are not reused (except for European paper wasp nests). Queens start laying eggs and begin raising workers (sterile daughter offspring) as soon as possible.

Once workers are produced, they take over the duties of enlarging and maintaining the nest, foraging for food and caring for the young while the queen functions only to produce more eggs. The queen lays a single egg in each hexagonal nest cell. Once the egg hatches the adults feed the larva pre-chewed insects. Prior to pupation the larvae spin a white silken cap over the cell. A single paper wasp queen may start a nest or several queens may do so. When a small group of females establish a nest, eventually one becomes dominant and becomes responsible for laying eggs. The others assume duties for the upkeep of the nest and are joined later by newly produced workers. If the founding queen is killed, another queen will take over laying eggs. By late summer, new queens and males are produced. Shortly afterwards, the colonies start declining as the queens stop laying eggs. Eventually new queens are produced. After mating, they fly off to search for places to spend the winter. The nest remains active until freezing temperatures (usually in the mid to upper 20°'s F) arrive killing the old queen and the workers. In the upper Midwest, even yellowjacket and paper wasp nests inside a building do not survive the winter.

If they don't die from the cold, they will starve. When new queens take refuge in buildings for the winter, they remain in their overwintering sites until the weather becomes warm enough for them to become active. This typically occurs in late winter or early spring. Because they are trapped indoors, this gives the impression that a nest is active within the building. Fortunately, this is not the case. While yellowjacket queens typically overwinter singly in a building, paper wasp queens are gregarious, i.e. often there are at least several queens present. However, this just means that this is where they have overwintered and not a site of an active nest. The only necessary control is to physically remove or crush them. You can also capture them and release them outdoors. Bumble bees also have annual nests, i.e. they only survive one year. In the spring, each new bumble bee queen selects a nest site and starts a new colony.

She may line the cavity with dry grass or moss (depending on the species) and then collects pollen and nectar to produce a stored food called "bee bread." Her first brood of offspring, (5 to 20), will all be workers (daughters) who take over the colony responsibilities of nest enlargement, food gathering and storage, and feeding and caring for the larvae. The queen continues to lay eggs throughout the summer. By late summer, new reproductive males and females (drones and queens) are produced. They mate on the wing and the fertilized females move to hibernation sites underground or possibly in the shelter of loose bark to lie dormant through the winter. The males and workers still in the colony die with the first hard freeze. Honey bees have a complicated caste system with a queen and workers tending to perform different tasks within the hive depending on their age, such as cleaning, feeding young, making combs, and foraging for nectar. Similar to wasps, the queen lays a single egg in a comb. The egg hatches into a larva that is fed rich glandular secretions from the young bees' heads called brood food.

When the larva is ready to pupate, a worker seals the cell for it. Once the adult worker emerges from the pupae she joins the hive workforce. Honey bees are perennial insects with colonies that survive more than one year. Honey bee workers and queens survive the winter by forming a cluster when hive temperatures approach 57° F. As the temperature drops, the cluster of bees becomes more compact. Bees inside this mass consume honey and generate heat so that those in the cluster do not freeze. As long as sufficient honey stores are available in the nest, a strong colony can withstand temperatures down to -30° F. or lower for extended periods. When a colony gets too crowded it essentially reproduces itself by swarming. A colony produces a new queen and the old queen takes off with many of her workers. Swarming is an advantage to the bees but is a distinct disadvantage for beekeepers. Consequently, beekeepers manage hives to reduce the incidence of swarming to the largest extent possible. Swarming usually occurs in late spring and early summer and begins in the warmer hours of the day. Honey bee swarms may contain several hundred to several thousand worker bees, a few drones and one queen.

Swarming bees fly around briefly and then cluster on a tree limb, shrub or other object (figure 22). Clusters usually remain stationary for an hour to a few days, depending on weather and the time needed to find a new nest site by scouting bees. When a suitable location is found for a new colony, such as a hollow tree, the cluster breaks up and flies to it. Laura Jesse, Iowa State University Fig. 22 Honey bee swarm Honey bee swarms are not dangerous under most circumstances. Swarming honey bees do not have a nest to defend and bees away from the vicinity of their nest (offspring and food stores) are less defensive and are unlikely to sting unless provoked. In most situations when a honey bee swarm is found hanging in a tree, shrub or house you do not need to do anything. Swarms are temporary and the bees will move on if you patiently ignore them. Stay back and keep others away from the swarm, but feel free to admire and appreciate the bees from a safe distance. Only if a serious health threat is present because of the location of the swarm, such as in a highly traveled public area, should you need to do anything with a cluster.

An experienced beekeeper may be willing to gather a swarm and relocate it for you. To find a beekeeper that is willing to remove a honey bee colony or swarm in Iowa, Minnesota, and Wisconsin, visit this bee removal website. If the honey bees are in Minnesota, another option is to look for a beekeeper on the Minnesota Hobby Beekeepers Association website . Wasp and bee stings Social wasps and bees sting to defend their colony. Some yellowjacket species can also become aggressive during late summer and fall and may sting unprovoked. Stinging involves the injection of a protein venom that causes pain and other reactions. Yellowjackets, paper wasps and bumblebees can sting more than once because they are able to pull out their stinger without injury to themselves. If you are stung by one of these insects, the stinger is not left in your skin. Honey bees have tiny barbs on their stinger that remain hooked in the skin. The stinger, which is connected to the digestive system of the bee, is torn out of the abdomen as the bee attempts to fly away. As a result, the bee soon dies.

If you are stung by a honey bee, scratch out the stinger (with its attached venom gland) with your fingernail as soon as possible. Do not try to pull out the stinger between two fingers. Doing so only forces more venom into your skin, causing greater irritation. Most people have only local reactions to wasp and bee stings, although a few may experience more serious allergic reactions. Local, nonallergic reactions range from burning, itching, redness, and tenderness to massive swelling and itching that may last up to a week. These local reactions can be treated with ice or commercial topical ointment to relieve the itching. An allergic reaction may include hives or rash, swelling away from the sting site, headache, minor respiratory symptoms, and stomach upset. These allergic reactions are not life-threatening and can be readily treated with an antihistamine. However if this occurs, seek medical attention. (Very) rarely/occasionally, a person may suffer a life-threatening, systemic allergic reaction to a bee or wasp sting, which can cause anaphylactic shock (fainting, difficulty breathing, swelling, and blockage in the throat) within minutes of being stung. These systemic symptoms are cause for immediate medical attention.

People with known systemic allergic reactions to bee or wasp stings should consult with their physician to obtain an Epi-Pen™ or Ana-Guard Sting Kit™ to carry with them at all times. The venoms of bees and wasps are different, so having a severe reaction to a bee sting does not automatically mean a person will have the same reaction to a yellowjacket or paper wasp sting. Nests on your property Yellowjackets and paper wasp nests If a nest is located in an out of the way location and is unlikely to be disturbed, it is best left alone and ignored. If, however, a nest is located in a "high traffic" area such as along walks or near doorways, control is justified to reduce the threat of being stung. Yellowjackets and paper wasps are very protective of their colonies and will defend them if they feel threatened. If a yellowjacket or paper wasp nest is present and you want to control it, keep a few things in mind. First, treat the nest during late evening or early morning when the yellowjackets are less active; this will help minimize the chance of stings. When treating the nest, wear protective clothing, i.e.

a long-sleeved shirt and trousers; tie sleeves and pants legs shut or pull your socks out over your pant cuffs. If after a day there is still activity, i.e. yellowjackets or paper wasps are still flying back and forth, then repeat the treatment. If you are uncomfortable treating a yellowjacket nest, it is always an option to hire a pest management professional to deal with it; they have the experience and the appropriate tools to expertly eliminate nests. Do not attempt to manage a nest yourself if you are allergic to stings. Exposed nests If you can see the nest, e.g. it is attached to the eaves; you can treat it using an aerosol spray labeled for "wasps and hornets" or something similar. These typically contain active ingredients such as tetramethrin or prallethrin. For yellowjackets, spray it directly into opening of the nest (where the yellowjackets fly back and forth). For paper wasps, spray them so all of the combs receive some insecticide. It is also possible to kill paper wasps with a soap and water mixture.

Yellowjacket ground nests Nests in the ground can be controlled by placing an insecticide dust, typically containing permethrin, in and around the nest entrance during the night. The dust particles will adhere to the insects as they leave and reenter the nest and control will usually be achieved within a few days. Pouring a liquid insecticide into the nest entrance is less likely to be effective as the liquid may not reach the nest depending on where it is located within the burrow. Concealed yellowjacket nests Yellowjacket nests that are found inside homes in wall voids, attics, concrete blocks, or similar spaces are much more challenging to control. The most effective treatment is with an application of a dust, e.g. containing deltamethrin. Unfortunately, there are not many products like this available to the general public that are registered for use in buildings. An aerosol insecticide is not very effective. In fact, an aerosol spray can sometimes cause yellowjackets to look for another way out, which often leads them to the inside of homes. Also, don't seal the nest opening until you know all of the yellowjackets are dead as this can also cause yellowjackets to move into your house.

It is usually best for a pest management professional to control hidden nests in buildings. Honey bee nests Honey bee colonies are infrequently found in buildings in wall or attic voids. While yellowjacket colonies are annual and do not survive winters, honey bee nests may last for many years. If a honey bee nest is suspected, capturing a specimen or taking a good picture and getting it identified is an important step to verify what insect is actually present. If the specimens are confirmed to be honey bees, first consider contacting a beekeeper for help with removal of the colony. An experienced beekeeper may be willing to gather a swarm and relocate it for you. To find a beekeeper that is willing to remove a honey bee colony or swarm in Iowa, Minnesota, and Wisconsin, visit this bee removal website. If the honey bees are in Minnesota, another option is to look for a beekeeper on the Minnesota Hobby Beekeepers Association website . If it is not possible to salvage a honey bee colony, then it may be necessary to treat it with an insecticide. If possible, wait to treat it until early spring, March to April. At that time the colony may be either dead, or if alive will have little honey left.

This is the best time to treat the honey bees and remove the nest. Even if honey combs cannot be removed chances are there will be very little, to no, honey left in combs by April. By late April or early May honey bees start collecting nectar again, so there is a narrow window of time to remove them when there is little to no honey. Any remaining wax should not be a problem as wax moths usually destroy it quickly and then are gone. However, any combs and honey that may still be present can potentially cause a problem from bees from other colonies, scavenging insects and mice. Do not salvage these honey combs or honey if the colony was treated with insecticide. Bumble bee nests If the vicinity of a bumble bee nest can be avoided, leaving them alone and waiting for them to die in the fall is the preferred "management" option. Most species are not aggressive even when you reach directly into the nest or step on it and they are only active until September. Put up a little fence around the nest to help prevent accidents. Live-trapping bumble bees for relocation is not practical and covering the nest entrance does not usually solve the problem.

Relocating the entire nest also is not practical as often the colony does not survive. Bumble bee nests in yards, flowers beds, wood piles, walls or other areas where a lot of human activity occurs may create an unacceptable nuisance. If there is a high risk of stings and the area cannot be avoided, it may be necessary to treat the nest. Determine the exact location of the nest entrance from a safe distance during the day, but wait until night to treat if possible. Wear long-sleeved shirt and trousers and tie sleeves and pants legs shut or pull your socks out over your pant cuffs. Use a soapy water solution (about ¼ cup of laundry or dish soap to one gallon of water). Or if using an insecticide, treat the same as when treating ground-nesting yellowjackets. Yellowjackets during late summer and fall Late summer and fall is the time of year when populations of yellowjackets (often mistakenly called "bees") and other social wasps become large and noticeable. The wasps have been present since spring, but because colonies start as a single queen, populations are very small through the early part of the summer.

Yellowjacket wasp populations peak during later summer when each nest may have up to approximately 5,000 wasps. Some yellowjacket species become aggressive scavengers and can disrupt outside activities where food or drink are served (figure 23). Control of scavenging yellowjackets is difficult, as there are no insecticides that effectively repel or discourage them. It is possible to spray soapy water on individual yellowjackets to kill them. Jeff Hahn, University of Minnesota Fig. 23 Yellowjackets can be found around food and beverages during late summer and fall The best strategy is to minimize attracting them. Wait to serve food and drink until people are ready to eat. Promptly put away food when done and throw garbage into a container with a tightly fitting lid. Examine glasses, cans, and other containers before drinking from them to check for yellowjackets that may have flown inside. If a yellowjacket flies into your food, wait for it to fly away or gently brush it away. If only a few yellowjackets are bothering your activity, ignoring them or capturing them with a net and crushing them may be sufficient.

Traps may catch many wasps, but not enough are captured to noticeably reduce their activity in the fall. The information given herein is supplied with the understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by the University of Minnesota Extension, Iowa State Extension, or the University of Wisconsin Extension. Mention of a pesticide or use of a pesticide label is for educational purposes only. A pesticide label is a legal document. Always follow the pesticide label directions attached to the pesticide container you are using. Pesticide labels may change frequently. Internet labels may not match the label on the container you are using. The site of use or plant to which the pesticide is to be applied must be listed on the label or the pesticide cannot be used. Remember, the label is the law. Revised 2015 Formicary - definition of formicary by The Free Dictionary Formicary - definition of formicary by The Free Dictionary Also found in: Thesaurus , Medical , Wikipedia . for·mi·car·y n. pl. for·mi·car·ies A nest of ants; an anthill.

[Medieval Latin formīcārium, from Latin formīca, ant.] formicary n, pl -caries or -caria (-ˈkɛərɪə) (Zoology) less common names for ant hill [C19: from Medieval Latin formīcārium see formic] for•mi•car•y [1810–20; < Latin formīc(a) ant + -ary ] formicary, formicarium Want to thank TFD for its existence? Tell a friend about us , add a link to this page, or visit the webmaster's page for free fun content . Link to this page: Sauba ant References in periodicals archive ? Getting the technology implementation right is vital in this ever-changing OTC trading environment", says Dee Dervish, director at Formicary.

Formicary Achieves LCH.Clearnet SwapClear CCP2 CERTIFICATION To me, it particularly occurs that his remarks show that some aspects of Oyekan's work that resemble the structure of a formicary, recall a specific side of our 'memories' about earth; that is, making something using it, living in and with it and the comfort and pleasure it brings. Narratives between terra, humanity and environment Gavin Adam, head of product management at IT solutions provider Formicary Collaboration Group, says that many more financial apps will appear on the market soon. Formicary | Define Formicary at Dictionary.com formicary Medieval Latin 1810-1820 1810-20; < Medieval Latin formīcārium ant hill, noun use of neuter of *formīcārius of, pertaining to ants. See formic , -arium Dictionary.com Unabridged Examples from the Web for formicary Expand Historical Examples Animal Intelligence George J. Romanes Many also enter the formicary, and begin to carry off the young brood that are left in it.

In the Open Stanton Davis Kirkham British Dictionary definitions for formicary Expand noun (pl) -caries, -caria (-ˈkɛərɪə) 1. less common names for ant hill Word Origin C19: from Medieval Latin formīcārium see formic Collins English Dictionary - Complete & Unabridged 2012 Digital Edition © William Collins Sons & Co. Ltd. 1979, 1986 © HarperCollins Publishers 1998, 2000, 2003, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2012 Word Origin and History for formicary Expand "ant nest," 1816, from Medieval Latin formicarium, from Latin formica "ant" (see Formica (n.2)).

Online Etymology Dictionary, © 2010 Douglas Harper Troubling Pinhole Leaks in Evaporator Coils Cause Corrosion Issues Home » Troubling Pinhole Leaks in Evaporator Coils Cause Corrosion Issues Troubling Pinhole Leaks in Evaporator Coils Cause Corrosion Issues June 11, 2007 2 Comments Contractor Dave Mitlyng, owner of Mitlyng Electric & Refrigeration, Montevideo, Minn., came across an odd pattern of evaporative coil failures. There were pin holes on the outside of the coils, which allowed refrigerant to escape and let air and other noncondensables get into the system. A respected colleague told him that contractors down South call the problem “ant dust,” adding that the higher pressure of R-410A could be making the problem worse. Mitlyng asked The NEWS: “Is he feeding me some ant dust?” The problem of “ant nest” coil corrosion is not really a new one. It has little to do with R-410A in the system. Formicary (literally ant nest) coil corrosion has been occurring throughout the industry for years, on all manufacturers’ brands.

According to Robin Boyd, a territory sales manager for Goodman Manufacturing, “While the higher pressures of R-410A may cause a coil already weakened by formicary corrosion to leak a bit sooner, there is nothing in 410A, or the related POE oil used with it, that would cause pin hole leakage.” “The only way there could be corrosion issues from inside of the coil is if there are corrosives such as moisture in the system,” he said. Formicary corrosion works from the outside of the coil’s surface. “We refer to the problem as champagne leaks because the bubbles that emanate from the leaks when the coil is checked under water look like champagne bubbles,” said Steve Hancock, senior principal engineer, Trane. CONTAMINANTS AND CORROSIONS “Formicary coil corrosion is caused by contaminants in the air that collect onto the condensation that forms on indoor coils during a cooling cycle,” Boyd explained. These contaminants turn into acids when they are exposed to the moisture, “etching the copper of the coils in a manner that looks like tunnels in an ant farm,” he said.

“Eventually, these etched areas of the copper become thin enough to start leaking as the copper becomes so thin that it becomes porous.” From the outside of the tube, and to the naked eye, it does not look like an ant farm. According to Peter Elliot of Corrosion Materials Consultancy Inc., and Richard A. Corbett of Corrosion Testing Laboratories, the coil’s copper surface “will be discolored adjacent to the corrosion pit(s). Surface films can vary from dull gray-black to red-brown or purple, depending upon the specific environment.” “The corrosion initiates from the tube surface and progresses rapidly into the tube wall,” they wrote. The damage progresses rather quickly. “Perforation usually occurs in weeks or months, not years.” According to their paper, “Ant nest corrosion will only occur when oxygen, moisture, and a specific corrodent, usually an organic acid, are simultaneously present on a copper surface. The damage is worse when stagnant fluids are retained against the copper surface, or when crevices are part of the unit design.

“The most common cause of ant nest corrosion is the presence of chlorinated organic compounds or hydrolysis products produced by the decomposition of, for example, esters or aldehydes to carboxylic acids, such as formic or acetic.” SOLUTIONS Contractor Fred Kobie, owner of Kobie Kooling, Ft. Myers, Fla., pointed out that the problem is not brand-specific. Formicary corrosion leaks are also tougher to find than more common refrigerant leaks. “The leaks do not always present during a leak test,” he said. “They can be tricky to detect. Using a component isolation test is the better method to identify the leaks, using both very low negative pressures and very high nitrogen pressures.” Formicary corrosion has been common on R-22 systems for over a decade, said Hancock. “There have been various attempts to address the problem, including coating the copper tubes and trying different tube alloys,” he said.

“Trane’s current approach is abandoning copper for aluminum, which is not susceptible to this form of corrosion.” “The resolution to this problem,” said Boyd, “is to reduce contaminants in the air by using less chemically laden household and personal hygiene products, having a controlled outside air mix in the home, and decreasing the coil surface temperature to increase the amount of air being brought to below the dew point for more moisture removal. “Some of these factors reduce calculated system efficiency, but can dramatically increase comfort level,” he said. “In many cases I have been able to set up systems so that they are technically less efficient but in practical use, they reduce system operational cost, greatly increase the comfort level of the air, and reduce the circumstances that cause formicary corrosion.” “Ant nest corrosion is a real phenomenon associated with the premature failure of copper tubes used principally for refrigeration or air conditioning applications,” stated the NACE paper.

“The fact that the phenomenon is less well known is alarming because of the high number of failures that may be attributed to other forms of corrosion by those less informed.” The authors agree that “damage will be reduced or eliminated if copper surfaces are properly cleaned and kept dry.” Publication date: 06/11/2007 formic-, form-, -formic - Word Information formic-, form-, -formic 1. A reference to or being derived from ants. 2. Derived from formic acid, a type of chemical secreted by ants. formic acid, methanoic acid A colorless corrosive liquid compound with a penetrating odor, found in the bodies of ants and spiders, in the hairs and other parts of certain caterpillars, and in stinging nettles. This substance as it occurs in living organisms produces the stinging sensation that results from the bite of red ants and is also found in spiders, in pine needles, as well as in stinging nettles. Formic acid is made commercially by the reaction of carbon monoxide with sodium hydroxide and is used in dyeing and finishing textiles, treating leather, and producing fumigants, insecticides, and refrigerants.

Going back to the Latin word for "ant", it was first obtained in 1670 from the distillation of ants. Formica 1. A genus (group) of ants of the family Formicidae (ants) and the subfamily Formicinae (ants), and in turn Formica's own type species is the European red wood ant Formica rufa. Common names for this group are wood ant, mound ant, and field ant. 2. Social insects of the family Formicidae, characteristically having wings only in the males and fertile females and living in colonies that have complex social organizations. formican 1. Pertaining to, or referring to, an ant. 2. Resembling: an ant. formicant Producing a tactile sensation on the skin; such as, the crawling of small insects like ants. formicant pulse A small, feeble pulse likened to the movements of ants. formicarian 1. Relating to or resembling ants. 2. Plants which attract ants by means of sweet secretions. Formicariidae Antbirds; a family containing about 240 species of small Neotropical passerine forest birds.

They are solitary, non-migratory, feed on insects; some species follow armies of ants to catch when they are flushed out; they nest in trees or on the ground; their beaks are usually strong and hooked; their wings are short and rounded, while their flight is weak. formicarium (s) ( noun ), formicaria (pl) Ants' nest, particularly an artificial arrangement for purposes of scientific study: "The teacher used a discarded aquarium to build a formicarium so her students could study the behavior of ants." formicary (s) ( noun ), formicaries (pl) 1. An ants' nest or ant-hill. 2. Nests of ants, consisting of galleries and chambers excavated in the earth and covered by mounds of debris (grass, sticks, etc.). formicate (FOR mi kayt") ( verb ), formicates; formicated; formicating 1. To have a sensation on the skin as if ants are crawling around: To formicate is a neurologically based hallucinating process in which people feel as if insects are creeping all over their skin, sometimes as a result of abusing themselves with drugs or alcohol. 2.

To crawl or to collect in swarms; such as, ants: Mrs. Jones was quite disturbed by the many insects that she saw formicating across her kitchen floor! 3. Etymology: from Latin formicare, "to crawl like an ant". formicated ( adjective ), more formicated, most formicated A reference to ants that have swarmed or collected in large groups and moved together. formication (s) ( noun ), formications (pl) 1. An itching sensation like the crawling of ants over the skin: "For some people, formications can result from excessive scratching of itching skin which may lead to misleading medical diagnoses of skin diseases." 2.

A form of paresthesia producing an itching and tingling sensation like that of ants running over the skin: "The feeling of formication is one of the more common side effects of cocaine withdrawal." "Formication is also an abnormal sensation or hallucination that ants are crawling in or on the skin; which is a common symptom in diseases of the spinal cord and the peripheral nerves." formicational ( adjective ) (no comparatives) A descriptive reference to a an abnormal subjective sensation of ants (or other small insects) creeping in or under a given skin area: "Formicational feelings are more commonly seen in patients in whom there is some organic agent; usually in the form of narcotic drugs (alcohol, cocaine, morphine, etc.)." formiciasis HGIC 2252 Common Houseplant Insects & Related Pests : Extension : Clemson University : South Carolina CU › Cooperative Extension › HGIC › Insects, Diseases & Other Problems › Insects & Diseases of Plants › Insects & Diseases of Indoor Plants › HGIC 2252 Common Houseplant Insects & Related Pests Common Houseplant Insects & Related Pests Pesticides updated by Joey Williamson, HGIC Horticulture Agent, Clemson University, 1

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Revised by Joey Williamson, HGIC Horticulture Agent, Clemson University 03/14. Originally prepared by Janet McLeod Scott, HGIC Horticulture Agent, Clemson University. New 12/07. HGIC 2252 Printer Friendly Version (PDF) When a houseplant looks less than healthy, most often it is the result of improper care. Factors such as too much or too little water, light, heat or fertilizer can cause many plant problems. However, in some cases the problem results from a pest infestation. Several insects and other pests feed on houseplants. These pests most often come into the home on newly purchased plants or on those that have been outside for the summer. Prevention The best way to control insects and related pests on houseplants is through prevention, as it is almost always easier to prevent a pest infestation than to eliminate one. There are several precautions that you can take which will decrease the chances of having to deal with a pest infestation of your houseplants. Provide a plant with the growing conditions that it needs so that it is more likely to grow vigorously. Stressed plants tend to be more susceptible to pests.

Before buying or bringing a plant indoors, always check it and its container for signs of pests. A plant that has been outside for the summer, especially one sitting on the ground, may have pests that have crawled in through the drainage holes. Take the plant out of the pot to examine the soil. Isolate new plants from plants already in the home for six weeks to ensure that any pest brought in will be less likely to spread. While plants are isolated, carefully examine them for signs of pests or damage on a regular basis of about once a week. Pay particular attention to the undersides of leaves where pests are most often found. Using a 10X magnifying lens will make it easier to see small pests and also immature pest stages. Infestations are often much easier to control if caught early. When repotting a plant, use commercially prepared potting soil rather than soil from outdoors, which can be a source of pests. Washing smooth-leaved plants every two to three weeks discourages pest infestations and also improves the appearance of foliage. Small plants can be inverted and swished in a bucket of tepid (lukewarm) water. To prevent loss of soil, cover it with aluminum foil or plastic wrap.

Large plants can be hosed down gently, or upper and lower surfaces of leaves can be wiped with a soft, wet cloth. Large plants can also be rinsed in a tepid shower. Since cut flowers from the garden can be a source of pests, keep them separate from houseplants. Pests of houseplants can enter homes from outdoors, so make sure that screens and doors fit well. Non-Chemical Control The first step in control is to isolate any plant suspected of being infested with a pest. Keep the plant separate from other houseplants until the pest is completely controlled. This process may take several weeks or more. Before looking for a chemical solution to a pest problem on houseplants, there are several effective control alternatives that should be considered. However, do not expect the problem to be solved with one application. Some of these alternatives require persistence on the part of the indoor gardener, but they can give good control. If only an isolated portion of the plant is infested, as occurs with leafminers, remove and destroy the infested parts. If the roots are infested, take a cutting and start a new plant. Be sure to start with a clean pot and sterile potting soil.

Early infestations can often be removed by handpicking. Use a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol to wipe off insects such as aphids and mealybugs. Scale insects may need to be scraped off with a fingernail. Spraying a sturdy plant with water will remove many pests. Be sure to spray all plant surfaces. Repeated water sprays help control spider mites. Spraying the plant with an insecticidal soap can often eliminate a pest infestation in its early stages. Insecticidal soaps are contact insecticides and are only effective when they make direct contact with insects. Once the soap solution dries, it has no effect against pests. Insecticidal soaps are most effective against soft bodied insects and related pests, such as aphids, mealybugs, immature scales (crawlers), thrips, whiteflies and spider mites. Since pests may be hidden or in the egg stage, it often takes more than one treatment to eliminate them. See Table 1 for examples of products and additional comments about insecticidal soap sprays. If the plant is severely damaged and is not a valuable one, the best and simplest solution may be to discard the plant and its soil and start with a new plant.

Chemical Control If non-chemical control methods have failed, and the plant is valuable, a stronger pesticide may be necessary. Before choosing a pesticide, it is important to identify the pest accurately. In general, a single pesticide will not kill all kinds of pests. Some pesticides are only effective against certain pests or certain life stages of particular pests. In addition, it is important to understand that more than one application of a pesticide is often necessary for control. When possible, alternate the pesticide used from one application to the next as some pests develop resistance quickly. Houseplant insect sprays can be obtained at garden centers and farm supply stores. Only a few pesticides are labeled for use indoors on houseplants. Before using a pesticide indoors, be sure that the label specifies that use. You may want to treat your plant outdoors and then bring it inside after the pesticide has dried completely. If you take plants outdoors to treat, make sure that weather conditions are mild. Spraying insecticides outdoors prevents over-spray from contacting furniture, drapes or carpet. Typically, a pesticide label will include both a list of plants for which the pesticide is recommended as well as a list of plants that are known to be sensitive to the pesticide.

Symptoms of pesticide injury on plants include distortion of leaves and buds, yellowing of leaves, spotting of leaves or flowers, and burn along the leaf edges as well as total burn. When damage occurs, it often becomes visible within 5 to 10 days, sometimes sooner. In general, the damage does not kill the plant. As always, before purchasing and using any pesticide, be sure to read all label directions and precautions, and then follow them carefully. Major Pests Aphids: Aphids are small, soft-bodied, pear-shaped insects about 1/16- to ⅛-inch long. They are usually green but may be pink, brown, black or yellow. Some aphids have a woolly or powdery appearance because of a waxy coat. Adults may or may not have wings. Aphid adults (winged adult in center) and immatures. Alton N. Sparks, Jr., University of Georgia, Aphids are usually found feeding on new growth or the undersides of leaves. Some feed on roots. They suck plant sap, resulting in yellowing and misshapen leaves. In addition, growth may be stunted, and new buds deformed.

As aphids feed, they excrete a sugary material, called honeydew, which makes leaves shiny and sticky. Sooty mold fungi may grow on the honeydew, producing unsightly dark splotches on the plant’s surfaces. Control: With minor infestations, handpicking, spraying with water or wiping the insects with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol may be practical. Insecticidal soap spray may also be used. In most cases the treatment will have to be repeated multiple times. For houseplants that are taken outdoors, spray with insecticidal soap, neem oil extract, pyrethrins, acetamiprid, imidacloprid, cyfluthrin, or permethrin to control aphids. See Table 1 for examples of brands and products. Imidacloprid plant spikes put into the soil will also control aphids. See footnote on Table 1 about spraying houseplants outdoors. Follow label directions for safe use. Mealybugs: Mealybugs are small, pale insects, related to scales. They are about ⅛ to ¼ inch long and move very sluggishly.

The adult females cover themselves and their eggs with a white, waxy material, making them look cottony. Some have waxy filaments that extend beyond their bodies. Mealybug nymph. US National Collection of Scale Insects Photographs Archive, USDA ARS, Nymphs (immature forms) hatch from the eggs. Once they begin to feed, the waxy coating starts to form. Nymphs look like adults only smaller. The wax on mealybugs helps repel pesticides and makes them somewhat difficult to control. Mealybugs are most commonly found on the lower surfaces of leaves and in leaf axils (where the leaf attaches to the stem). One species feeds on the roots. They suck plant sap, causing stunted and distorted growth and sometimes plant death. Like aphids, mealybugs excrete honeydew, providing the opportunity for growth of sooty mold fungi. Control: Light infestations can be controlled by removing individual mealybugs by hand or by wiping each insect with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. An insecticidal soap spray may also be used. With a heavy infestation, it may be necessary to discard the plant.

For houseplants that are outdoors, spray with neem oil extract, pyrethrins, acetamiprid, imidacloprid, cyfluthrin or permethrin to control mealybugs. Imidacloprid plant spikes put into the soil will also control mealybugs. See Table 1 for examples of brands and products. See footnote on Table 1 about spraying houseplants outdoors. Follow label directions for safe use. Spider Mites: Mites are not insects but are more closely related to spiders. Since they are extremely small, plant damage is typically the first sign of their presence. A silky web is often seen with heavier infestations. Spider mites with webbing. David Cappaert, Michigan State University, Bugwood.org Both spider mite adults and their immature forms damage plants by sucking plant sap. Damage includes light-colored speckling on the upper surface of leaves, and results in a plant with an overall faded look. If the mites are left unchecked, leaves become bronzed or yellowed, and the plant dies. Spider mites are usually more of a problem on house plants that remain indoors year round.

Control: Spray sturdy plants forcefully with water, including the undersides of leaves, to dislodge mites and break up their webs. Plants also can be sprayed with an insecticidal soap. For houseplants that are outdoors, spray with insecticidal soap, neem oil extract or an insecticide containing sulfur. It is often necessary to spray once a week for several weeks to control mites. See Table 1 for examples of brands and products. See footnote on Table 1 about spraying houseplants outdoors. Follow label directions for safe use. Plants placed outdoors during summer may have a reduced problem with spider mites. Be sure to place all houseplants initially in mostly shade, as even plants that grow well in more sun might be burned until they have adapted to the higher light levels. Two-spotted spider mite adult. David Cappaert, Michigan State University, Bugwood.org Fungus Gnats: Adult fungus gnats are delicate in appearance and about 1/8-inch long. Often they can be seen running across or flying near the soil surface under a houseplant. They are weak flyers and are attracted to light. The adults do not feed on houseplants but can be a nuisance to people.

In severe infestations they are often seen in large numbers on nearby windows. Fungus gnat adult. Johnny N. Dell, Retired, The whitish larvae (immature forms) of fungus gnats have shiny black heads and can grow as large as ¼-inch. The larvae generally feed on decaying organic material or fungi growing in the soil. The larvae of some species will also feed on roots. This feeding is especially damaging to very young plants. With older, established plants, the initial sign of an infestation is that the plant loses its normal healthy appearance. A heavily infested plant may lose leaves as a result of the feeding of larvae on its roots. Indoors, fungus gnats are most often a problem when potting soil that is rich in organic matter, such as peat moss, is used to grow plants. It is especially a problem when overwatering occurs. Control: For plants that can tolerate it (i.e. most houseplants, especially during winter), allow soil to dry between watering. Dry conditions will kill the larvae. Do not allow water to stand in the saucer beneath houseplant containers, and invert saucers beneath plants outside, so as to not collect rainwater.

Products that contain strains of the biological control agent Bacillus thuringiensis subsp. israelensis can be applied to the soil of houseplants and watered into the soil for control. See Table 1 for examples of brands and products. Follow label directions for safe use. Root Ball Pests: Houseplants taken outdoors during the summer may have their root balls infested with pillbugs, millipedes and slugs. These houseplant pests may cause minor feeding damage to root systems. They are generally found along the exterior of the root ball in small cavities carved from the potting mix. Ants may also make nests within the potting soil of houseplants while outside. Pill bug (Armadillidium vulgare). Joseph Berger, USDA, ARS, Bugwood.org Control: The plant container can be gently removed to inspect for pillbugs, millipedes and slugs, which simply can be scraped away. Ant colonies in the container may be killed by soil drenches of products containing cyfluthrin or permethrin. Mix insecticide at the same rate as for spraying, and pour solution through soil in container. Allow pots to thoroughly drain and dry before bringing indoors.

See Table 1 for examples of brands and products. See footnote on Table 1 about spraying houseplants outdoors. Follow label directions for safe use. Scales: Several species of scales are pests on houseplants. Scale insects can be divided into two groups: armored scales and soft scales. An armored scale secretes a waxy covering that is not an integral part of its body. The covering can be scraped off to Example of an armored scale adult. US National Collection of Scale Insects Photographs Archive, USDA ARS, Bugwood.org locate the insect living beneath it. In contrast, the waxy covering that a soft scale secretes is an integral part of its body. Scales are unusual insects in appearance. Adults are small and immobile with no visible legs. Scales vary in appearance depending on age, sex and species. Some are flat and appear like fish scales stuck to a plant. Others look like waxy, colored masses. They range in size from 1/16 to ½-inch in diameter. They are usually found on stems and the undersides of leaves, but may be found on upper surfaces as well. Scales feed by sucking plant sap.

Their immature forms, called crawlers, are mobile and also feed by sucking plant sap. Like mealybugs, the soft scale insects excrete honeydew (which results in black sooty mold problems on foliage and stems). Armored scales do not excrete honeydew. Example of a soft scale. US National Collection of Scale Insects Photographs Archive, USDA ARS, Bugwood.org Control: Early infestations of scales can be removed by scraping with a fingernail. Adult scales are relatively protected from insecticides by their waxy covering. However, for houseplants outdoors, sprays with products containing neem oil extract or canola oil help control adult scale insects by smothering. Their crawlers are susceptible to many insecticides, such as insecticidal soap, neem oil extract, canola oil, pyrethrins, acetamiprid, imidacloprid, cyfluthrin or permethrin. See Table 1 for examples of brands and products. See footnote on Table 1 about spraying houseplants outdoors. Follow label directions for safe use. Whiteflies: Whiteflies are not true flies, but are more closely related to scales, mealybugs and aphids.

They are very small about 1/10 to 1/16 -inch long. They have a powdery white appearance and resemble tiny moths. When at rest, the wings are held at an angle, roof-like over the body. The immature stage is scale-like and does not move. Both the adults and their immature forms feed by sucking plant sap. The damage that they cause is similar to that caused by aphids. The infested plant may be stunted. Leaves turn yellow and die. Like aphids, whiteflies excrete honeydew, which makes leaves shiny and sticky and encourages the growth of sooty mold fungi. When plants that are infested with whiteflies are disturbed, the whiteflies flutter around for a while before settling again. Control: Wash the plant. Spray the plant thoroughly with insecticidal soap, especially the lower leaf surfaces. Imidacloprid plant spikes put into the soil will also control whiteflies. For houseplants that are taken outdoors, spray with insecticidal soap, neem oil extract, acetamiprid, imidacloprid, cyfluthrin or permethrin to control whiteflies. See Table 1 for examples of brands and products.

See footnote on Table 1 about spraying houseplants outdoors. Follow label directions for safe use. Sweetpotato whitefly. Central Science Laboratory, Harpenden Archive, British Crown, Less Common Pests Thrips: Thrips are tiny, slender, yellowish to blackish insects with fringed wings. They are typically found on leaves and between flower petals. At less than 1/16 inch in length, the adults are very difficult to see without a magnifying lens. Blowing lightly into blooms and leaves causes thrips to move around quickly, making them easier to see. Both adults and nymphs (immature stage) feed by scraping surface cells to suck plant sap. Leaves fed on by thrips will often take on a silvery or speckled appearance similar to damage caused by mites. Leaves may drop early. When thrips feed on flower buds, the flower may die without opening. Flowers may be streaked or distorted as a result of feeding. Control: Rinse leaves with water. Spray plants with an insecticidal soap.

For houseplants that are outdoors, spray foliage with spinosad, acetamiprid, imidacloprid, cyfluthrin or permethrin to control thrips. For plants with flower buds infested with thrips, the insecticide must have systemic activity, such as spinosad, acetamiprid or imidacloprid, in order to control the hidden thrips. Thrips. Andrew Derksen, University of Florida, Bugwood.org Imidacloprid plant spikes put into the soil are also effective. See Table 1 for examples of brands and products. See footnote on Table 1 about spraying houseplants outdoors. Follow label directions for safe use. Springtails: Springtails are tiny insects about 1/5- inch long that inhabit the soil. They vary in color but are usually white or black. They are wingless, but can jump. Their presence is usually a sign of overwatering. While springtails normally feed on decaying organic matter, they will chew on seedlings or tender plant parts. Damage is usually minimal. In large numbers, they can be a nuisance. Springtail.

Susan Ellis, Control: For plants that can tolerate it (most plants), let the soil dry between watering. Leafminers: Leafminers are the larvae (immature worm-like stage) of a large number of different insects. The larvae feed between the upper and lower leaf surfaces. Leafminer damage appears as a winding, discolored trail or an irregular blotch within the leaf. Although damage from these pests is unsightly, it is rarely serious. Control: Remove and destroy any leaves showing leafminer damage. For houseplants that are outdoors, insecticidal sprays that have foliar systemic activity (the ability to move into the leaves), such as acetamiprid, imidacloprid, or spinosad will control leafminers. Imidacloprid plant spikes put into the soil are also effective. See Table 1 for examples of brands and products. See footnote on Table 1 about spraying houseplants outdoors. Follow label directions for safe use. Leafminer damage. John A. Weidhass, Virginia Tech, Beetles: Various kinds of beetles and their larvae feed on houseplants.

They may enter the home when houseplants are brought inside at the end of summer, or they may enter through some opening. They have chewing mouthparts. Control: Remove and destroy the beetles. If houseplants are outside and beetles return and feed on foliage, spray with neem oil extract, acetamiprid, imidacloprid, cyfluthrin or permethrin to control them for one to two weeks. See Table 1 for examples of brands and products. See footnote on Table 1 about spraying houseplants outdoors. Follow label directions for safe use. Caterpillars: Caterpillars are the larvae of butterflies and moths. They range in size from about ⅛ inch to 2 or more inches long. Their color varies according to species with gray, brown, and green being common, as are mottled and striped colors. They may be smooth or have spines, hairs or bumps along their bodies. Butterflies and moths lay their eggs on the undersides of leaves of plants that have been outdoors. Stray moths that have gotten into the home can also lay eggs on houseplants.

When the eggs hatch, the caterpillars can be quite small, but grow with each molt (process of shedding the skin). Caterpillars have chewing mouthparts. Some feed openly on leaves, buds and flowers and can eat large portions of the plant in a relatively short period of time. Others bore into stems to feed. A good indication that caterpillars are causing the damage is the presence of frass (fecal pellets) on leaves and under the plant. Control: Remove and destroy caterpillars and eggs. If the houseplants are outside and additional caterpillar feeding occurs, spray with neem oil extract, spinosad, cyfluthrin or permethrin to control them for one to two weeks. See Table 1 for examples of brands and products. See footnote on Table 1 about spraying houseplants outdoors. Follow label directions for safe use. General Caution for Outdoor Spraying Pollinating insects, such as honey bees and bumblebees, can be adversely affected by the use of pesticides. Avoid the use of spray pesticides (both insecticides and fungicides), as well as soil-applied, systemic insecticides unless absolutely necessary.

If spraying is required, always spray late in the evening to reduce the direct impact on pollinating insects. Always try less toxic alternative sprays first for the control of insect pests and diseases. For example, sprays with insecticidal soap, horticultural oil, neem oil extract, spinosad, Bacillus thuringiensis (B.t.), or botanical oils can help control many small insect pests and mites that affect garden and landscape plants. Neem oil extract or botanical oil sprays may also reduce plant damage by repelling many insect pests. Practice cultural techniques to prevent or reduce the incidence of plant diseases, including pre-plant soil improvement, proper plant spacing, crop rotation, applying mulch, applying lime and fertilizer based on soil test results, and avoiding over-head irrigation and frequent watering of established plants. Additionally, there are less toxic spray fungicides that contain sulfur or copper soap, and biological control sprays for plant diseases that contain Bacillus subtilis. However, it is very important to always read and follow the label directions on each product. For more information, contact the Clemson Extension Home & Garden Information Center. Table 1. Pesticides to Control Insects & Spider Mites on Houseplants.

Insecticide/Miticide Active Ingredient

Question: A formicary is the nest or dwelling of which insect?
Answer: Ant