Habanero Orange Pepper - Heirloom Seeds: Sustainable Seed Company Full Planting Tips for Heirloom Hot Peppers: Start these vegetable seeds indoors about 6-8 weeks before your last frost date. Be sure to keep them in a warm place so that the soil temperature stays above 75°. Young heirloom pepper plants like it to stay warm and will develop best if kept happy. Only transplant after the heirloom pepper seedlings have shown several sets of their true leaves and only once you are sure the outside soil temperature is consistently above 65°. Heirloom seeds are hardy, but always take care with your garden seeds to give them the appropriate amount of moisture - don't let the vegetable seeds dry out prematurely, and don't overwater and possibly have them rot. Directions: Cut the large peppers into 1/4 inch rings and simply pierce the very small peppers a few times, or you can cut all peppers into 1 inch pieces. this will depend on how you wish to eat them. Pack the peppers into 1 qt jar. Place all remaining ingredients into a pot or medium sauce pan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and let simmer for 5 minutes.

Pour the hot brine into the jar of peppers, place lids, and seal. Serve within a month, and refrigerate after opening. Note** To seal the jar you can either place it on a canning rack or directly into a pot with the water filled up to cover the whole jar. Bring to a boil for 10-15 minutes. Your name Hot Habanero Pepper Seeds and Plants, Vegetable Gardening at Burpee.com Growing information How to Sow and Plant Only home gardeners who enjoy long growing seasons in the Deep South should attempt to sow pepper seeds directly in the vegetable garden. Most of us must start our own pepper plants indoors about 8-10 weeks before transplanting, which should be done 2-3 weeks after the expected last frost. Sow seeds ¼ inch deep in seed-starting formula Keep the soil moist at 75 degrees F Seedlings emerge in 10-21 days As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller.

Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours. Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions. If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 3 pairs of leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.

Planting in the Garden: To get an early start with your pepper plants, particularly in the North, cover the prepared bed with a dark colored polyethylene mulch at least a week before transplanting. This will heat the soil beneath and provide a better growing condition for young pepper plants. The mulch will also help the soil retain moisture throughout the season as the pepper plants grow. Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil. Make sure you did not grow tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or potatoes in the bed the previous year to avoid disease problems. Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones. Peppers should be set 18 inches apart in a row with the rows spaced 2-3 feet apart. Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball. Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root development. Fill the planting hole with soil to the top and press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water. Use a plant tag as a location marker. This is particularly important if you are trying different varieties.

It is very difficult to tell which variety is which from the foliage. Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact. Peppers may also be planted in containers. Use a container at least 18-24 inches wide and deep and use a commercial potting mix rather than garden soil. How to Grow Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating. Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. This is especially important for peppers as their roots may be easily damaged when weeding, and this can lead to blossom end rot. Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1-2" of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level.

If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated. Note that hot peppers tend to be hotter when they have less water and fertilizer. If they receive plenty of water and fertilizer they may be more mild than expected. Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area. Try planting pepper plants near tomatoes, parsley, basil, and carrots in your home vegetable garden. Don't plant them near fennel or kohlrabi. Peppers are very colorful when in full fruit and combine well with green herbs, okra, beans and cucumber fences in the garden bed. Harvesting and Preserving Tips Like cucumbers and summer squash, peppers are usually harvested at an immature stage. The traditional bell pepper, for example, is harvested green, even though most varieties will mature red, orange, or yellow. Peppers may be harvested at any stage, but their flavor doesn’t fully develop until maturity. Fully ripe peppers in multi-colors are delightful in the garden as well as in salads.

Cut the fruit from the plant with a sharp knife or pruners leaving a small part of the stem attached. Sweet bell, pimento and cherry peppers are delicious eaten green but are sweeter and higher in vitamins if allowed to turn bright red before harvest. Some varieties are yellow at maturity or may mature from green through yellow and red. Hot peppers may be harvested at any stage. Anaheim is usually picked green and cayenne types red. Bell peppers may be chopped and quick frozen for use in many recipes; sweet cherry and banana peppers and hot cherry peppers are perfect for pickling. A popular and trouble-free way to store hot peppers is to dry them. String mature red peppers by piercing the stem with a needle and heavy thread. Hang the string in a warm, dry, airy place (not in the sun!) to dry. They can make a colorful kitchen accent. Pull a pepper from the string when you need one. Hot peppers remain hot even after they are dried. Remember that in recipes a little hot pepper can go a long way. Please note that hot peppers can burn sensitive skin on contact and fumes from grinding or cooking them can irritate the lungs and eyes.

When working with hot peppers use rubber gloves and wash your hands before touching your face or eyes. Product Details Reviews Pepper, Hot, Habanero is rated 5.0 out of 5 by 14. Rated 5 out of 5 by SamB from Burpee has the best Habanero I've ever grown The past three years I've been trying to grow habaneros to pickle some for my dad for Christmas. I’ve bought plants from a few different nurseries and tried growing my own from a different seed company. Whether I grew them myself or bought plant I only got a couple peppers if any at all and it was quite disappointing. This year I bought Habanero seeds from Burpee and I’m very happy with the results so far. Didn’t have great germination rates even though my grow box got to a nice 80F degrees with a slight humidity that the other peppers as well as the tomatoes seemed to like. The plants that did sprout have been stocky and bushy with a nice deep green color and have produced lots of flowers which are starting to develop into lots of fruits. Better than anything I've ever tried growing in the past. Can't wait to make them into pickled peppers!

Date published: 2012-08-18 Rated 5 out of 5 by Burns375 from HOT!! HOT!!!! Mine turned dark red not orange. For large prolific fruiting plants, its critical to start indoors and start early than other peppers. I found these seeds require much warmer growing conditions to germinate. I started seeds indoor at 65-70F and had poor results, seeds were slow to pop and grew slowly. Then I upped the temperatures to 75-80F and had every seed germinate and growth was much faster. However, they were still very slow to grow under florescent lighting compared to a bell pepper or hot yellow. Nevertheless the indoor started plant turned into a giant bush 3ft by 3ft, compared to a plant i started from seed outdoors which is 1/3 the size. I've harvested close to 50 pods and have atleast 60 greenies one 1 plant. Date published: 2011-08-25 Rated 5 out of 5 by OrganicMan from HELLFIRE HABANEROS!!--Not 4 The Faint Of Heart!!

I wish Burpee offered these in plant form, but I guess they figured not everyone has the guts to go head up against these notoriously hot peppers! I started the seeds along with some hot cherry pepper seeds indoors in mid February. After about three weeks, they germinated and began reaching for the sunlight all through March and April of 2009. By the end of April, I transplanted 5 of each variety into an 8' x 12' raised bed filled with premium soil which I mixed with manure, compost, lime, 10-10-10 fertilizer, bone meal and sand. Those babies hit the ground running, and by July I had a multitude of hellfire habs for my fresh mango-pineapple salsa, also to pickle, to freeze, to add that special kick to sauces, relishes, pepper jelly, etc. Remember now, that one of these babies is equivalent to 40 jalapenos in heat! So I would suggest you use a half to one whole one at a time if you are a novice, and PLEASE don't forget to wash your hands afterwards! Of course, removal of the seeds and inner membrane decreases the heat somewhat.

Outside of their potent heat, they have a delicious smokey sweet almost fruity flavor which is very unique. A great hot pepper if you know how to handle them. ~Enjoy~ Date published: 2010-05-06 Rated 5 out of 5 by dtownmaker from Hot hot hot producer Great example of what a habenero should be. I plan to add a couple extra plants this year to dry and pickle the extra harvest. Date published: 2010-03-19 Rated 5 out of 5 by Wadester from Keep Your Towel By You Keep your crying towel handing when eating these little babies. They are HOT! If you love your sauces hot, then this is definately the pepper for you. Wow.....one or two of these at a time will really spice up your food life, guaranteed. They grow extremely well in hot climates with lots of sun. Use gloves or a towel to pick them. If you get even the juice from the skin in your eyes by picking them free-handed and rubbing your eyelids, you will be running for the tap water to cool your tears. But don't cry; they are worht the effort!

They sould put the phrase "No cry babies" on the package of seeds! Date published: 2009-06-05 Organic Habanero Orange Hot Pepper Seeds Zones 8-10 Early October We try our utmost to maintain reliable inventory of all products, and are very proud of our record in doing so. However, as we are a company engaged in what Mother Nature provides, we do sometimes experience shortages and crop failures beyond our control. If, for any reason, we are required to backorder any portion of your order, rest assured we will keep you apprised of updated shipping information and/or any other options that may satisfy your needs and wishes. Product Description Grow Organic Heirloom Peppers - Plant Organic Habanero Orange Hot Pepper Seeds Hot Hot Hot! Organic Orange Habanero is one of the hottest peppers in the world, with a Scoville rating of between 100,000 – 350,000 units. Originating in the Yucatan in Mexico, this heirloom pepper is commonly used for sauces consumed only by the most intrepid of hot spice lovers. Enjoy at your own risk!

Fast Facts Planting Instructions Planting Organic Peppers (Capsicum annuum, sweet or hot) Peppers are a hardy, warm season crop that enjoys full sun and loamy, well draining soil with a neutral pH. Peppers, hot or sweet, can be quite easy to grow, but a little patience is required. Most varieties will take at least 85 days from sprouting to harvest. While they are pest tolerant, peppers can be susceptible to mildews so they will prefer a warm and dry climate. Keep in mind however, that while pepper plants grow well in warm summer temperatures, many varieties will wait until nights begin to reach cooler temperatures to produce the bulk of their harvest. For best results, seeds should be started indoors approximately 8-10 weeks before last expected frost date. Temperatures must be at least 70 degrees for good germination rates. When starting seeds, it is recommended to start three to a pot and thin the weakest seedling, leaving the remaining two to grow as one plant.

Approximately one week before transplanting outdoors, harden off seedlings and prepare your plot with fertilizer or organic material, making sure your soil temperatures are at least 65 degrees consistently, or else seedlings will not survive the transplant. Seedling pairs should be placed about 18 to 24 inches apart. Tip: put a few match heads and a teaspoon of fertilizer in the hole before planting, peppers appreciate the sulfur. Peppers will appreciate a stake or cage for stability, especially when they begin to fruit. They need a well drained bed, but consistent moisture is also important -- plastic sheeting or mulch can be good ideas for retaining moisture, but a drip irrigation system can be a good approach as well. You May Also Like Hot Pepper Seeds (Organic) - Cayenne Long Red Thin HEIRLOOM - ORGANIC USDA organic HABANERO ORANGE PEPPER - Peppers - Vegetable - Seeds HABANERO ORANGE PEPPER • Hot orange! Details This is one hot pepper. Bright orange version of the Habanero. Size and shape much like the regular Habanero. Wrinkled 1\" to 1½\" long peppers. These turn a brilliant orange when mature.

Plants grow to about 3½ feet tall. Double click on above image to view full picture More Views Chilli 'Magnum Habanero' Seeds - Succeed Heirlooms Other Common Names: Chilli 'Magnum Orange', Habanero Pepper, Lantern Chilli Origin: Capscium chinense is native to Central America despite it's misleading name. The origins of this particular heirloom chilli variety are unknown. Culinary Uses: Magnum Habanero rates between 200,000 and 300,000 SHU on the Scoville scale so is definitely only for those who like their chillis hot. Flavour is fruity, reminiscent of apricots and citrus with a floral aroma. Great when used as an ingredient in hot sauces or chop finely and add to spicy dishes. How To Grow: Magnum Habaneros have some frost resistance and are drought tolerant. This variety grows better in cooler climates than most chillis, Grow Magnum Habanero in full sun or light shade for best results. Does best when grown in fertile, well drained soil with a pH around 6.5. Do not overwater, allow soil to dry between waterings.

Magnum Habaneros are well suited for container growing. When To Sow: Sow Magnum Habanero seeds all year long in tropical and subtropical regions of Australia. In temperate regions of Australia sow from September to November. How To Sow: Sow Magnum Habanero seeds 6 mm deep spacing plants about 45 cm apart to allow plenty of room for them to grow. Germination Time: Habanero Pepper Seeds This Dainty Little Orange Pepper is Among the Hottest Anywhere! Habanero Pepper Seeds Fruit matures from silvery-green to bright orange. Delivers a searing degree of heat at 215,000 Scovilles!

Genus: Capsicum Item Form: (P) Pkt of 25 seeds Days to Maturity: 90 Fruit Length: 1 in - 2 in Additional Characteristics: Edible So we can ensure the best delivery and pricing Find My Zone (P) Pkt of 25 seeds Item # 05641-PK-P1 Buy 3+ at $1.50 ea Buy 6+ at $1.25 ea Quantity Item Form: (P) Pkt of 25 seeds Days to Maturity: 90 Fruit Length: 1 in - 2 in Additional Characteristics: Edible FAQ 90 days. Among the hottest peppers anywhere, Habanero reaches up to 215,000 Scovilles of heat! These little peppers look harmless, but use them very sparingly, and remember to wear gloves when handling them to avoid transferring that heat to your eye! Blocky, wrinklked peppers measure about 2 inches long and slightly less wide, maturing from silvery-green to bright orange on the plant. Start seeds indoors or, in climate with short growing seasons, outdoors at least one week after last frost.

If starting indoors, allow 7 to 10 weeks for the seeds to mature into seedlings large enough to transplant safely. Fertilize when the blooms appear, and water well. Fruit is most nutritious if allowed to ripen on the plant. Pkt is 25 seeds. Shop Peppers From sweet to spicy to downright sizzling, there's a perfect Pepper for everyone! Our wide selection includes just what you're looking for -- whether you're wanting a fresh and colorful garnish for your salads or you need to spice up those Mexican and Oriental dishes or you're simply looking for a tasty and nutritious snack food, our Peppers are happy to provide. Keep reading and learn just what you need to know to grow the biggest and most delicious harvest of Peppers you've ever had! And if you've never attempted to grow these versatile veggies before, now is the time! Choosing a Variety When deciding what type of Peppers you want to grow, you will need to consider size, flavor, and color. In the category of sweet or salad Peppers, your choices include bell and pimento as well as some banana and cherry varieties.

If heat is what you want, you can grow Habañero , Jalapeño , Anaheim, or Hungarian Peppers. Sweet and hot Peppers come in a rainbow of beautiful colors -- green, yellow, red, orange, and even purple. So not only are they delicious, they make great eye-candy! When to Start It's best to start your Peppers inside about 8 weeks before the last frost and at a temperature of 75-80 degrees F. They can be sown outdoors in early summer when the soil remains above 65 degrees F, but indoor germination is recommended. How to Start Park's Bio Dome seed starter is a great way to sow your Pepper seeds, as each Bio Sponge has a pre-drilled hole into which you can just drop one seed -- there's no need to thin seedlings or waste seeds! And you have several options, depending on how many Peppers you want to grow -- our original 60-cell Bio Dome , or our 18-cell Jumbo Bio Dome , which grows big, stocky seedlings ready to transplant right into your garden.

If you're using a potting mix , plant at a depth of 4 times the size of the seed (below a ¼ inch of soil). You can use our convenient Jiffy Pots and Strips -- Jiffy Pots are constructed of lightweight, biodegradable peat moss, so as the roots develop, they will grow right through the Jiffy Pot walls and into the garden soil. If the room where you have your seeds isn't at least 70 degrees F, you can use a seedling heat mat to raise the temperature. As the first leaves appear, however, lower the temperature a bit, to 70-75 degrees F. Fluorescent light for around 14 to 16 hours a day is also ideal for the fastest growth. You will want to keep the seedlings just a few inches below the light so they don't "stretch" and get "leggy". If you don't have strong artificial light, a sunny window will work, too -- just keep the clear dome on your Bio Dome to protect your seedlings from those chilly drafts.

Germination should occur in 10-15 days and fruit should appear in 50-80 days from sowing, depending on the variety. Planting Out About 2 weeks before your transplant date work the garden soil thoroughly, adding compost and fertilizer (use a 1-2-2 ratio fertilizer, before planting and again after 6 weeks). Then cover the soil with a tarp or plastic mulch to keep the weeds from sprouting until you're ready to plant. The use of mulch or a pop-up cold frame will also warm the soil, an important step before planting your young Peppers. Ten days before transplanting, you'll need to start "hardening off" your young plants by setting them outdoors in a lightly shaded area for an hour or two. The next day, give them a longer visit outside until they remain outdoors overnight, still in their pots. Naturally, if a cold spell hits, bring them indoors again to wait for the temperature to rise. Your plants are ready to be transplanted when they've developed their third set of true leaves.

Plant them out 2-3 weeks after the last frost, placing them 1 foot apart in rows that are 30-36 inches apart -- Pepper plants do well close together. Site them in full sun in a rich, well-drained soil. Water well and mulch to conserve moisture. If you're growing the plants in straight rows, plastic mulch is far easier and effective than loose mulch (such as straw or pine bark). Many varieties of pepper can be grown in containers! Be sure not to set them out until several weeks after last scheduled frost, and protect them by moving the container to a frost-free location if cold weather is anticipated. Mulch them in well, and provide support if needed. Many peppers are quite ornamental, and make splendid additions to the patio, porch, or balcony. Try Sweet Pickle for a beautiful and tasty crop! Special Considerations Seeds germinate faster at temperatures above 80 degrees F, although fruit set benefits from the cooler nights of late summer. Peppers are very sensitive to extreme cold, so after you've planted your seedlings, if there's a chance of a really cold or frosty night, securely cover them with a plastic bucket or plastic bag.

Unless you have no other choice, don't plant your Peppers in the same place you planted Tomatoes, Eggplant, or Peppers the year before. These veggies all belong to the same plant family and therefore have similar nutritional needs and are susceptible to similar diseases. Their presence can deplete the soil of important nutrients and possibly leave remnants of diseases in leaf litter the following year. Of course, if you aren't sure what kind of soil you've got, you can always analyze it in seconds with our economical Veggie Grower's Test Kit . Growing Tips Prepare your soil in the fall. Lay in a foot or more of bio-degradable mulch -- chopped-up leaves, grass clippings, pine bark, decayed vegetable compost, humus, and even newspaper all break down into the soil over time. This feeds the soil just what it likes so that when you approach it with a tiller or shovel in spring, it just needs to be turned over and mixed up a bit. Then top off the whole rich pile with a piece of plastic to keep the mulch "cooking" as long as possible into winter and to prevent all the good nutrients from running off in hard rains.

If frost still threatens after you plant your Peppers, or if you live in a short-season climate where late frosts are just part of spring, there are ways to keep your Peppers going. One way is to place a tarp over the plants, weighting it down at the edges to keep it from blowing away. Be careful, however, not to lay the tarp or plastic directly on the plants. You will need to use blocks, sticks, or whatever you have available to form a tent over your tender young Peppers. You can uncover it during the day and re-cover it at night, or leave it in place for several days and nights without damage to the plants. Once your seedlings are in the ground, be sure they get sufficient water -- Pepper plants are quite thirsty in early growth. Also, make sure the soil is well drained to help prevent root rot. The soil's pH level should ideally be around 6.5 to begin with, then increased or decreased afterwards to determine the chosen flavor (more acidic soil will produce a sharper, hotter taste). Onions and peas are good companion plants for your Peppers.

Onions repel pests like aphids, while peas fix nitrogen, and similar to Peppers, like slightly cool conditions and close quarters. Although appreciative of warm temperatures during the day, both peas and Peppers set fruit better if they can get some relief from the heat during the evenings. If necessary, stake plants when they are loaded with fruit. Pick your Peppers as soon as they're big enough to eat, or you can leave them on the plants to change color and flavor gradually. Don't pull them off, but rather cut them off cleanly -- Pepper plants are fragile and pulling the fruit off may damage the stems. If a stem does get broken, use a knife or cutter to remove it cleanly. Otherwise, no pruning is necessary. Be careful not to over-fertilize -- too much nitrogen will result in a great-looking bushy, green plant, but very little fruit. Pests and Problems to Watch For The most common pests you'll find on your Peppers are spider mites and aphids, with an occasional borer. You can get rid of them with the use of an organic insecticide or dust. Onions will also help repel aphids.

As far as diseases go, Peppers tend to be susceptible to the same problems as Tomatoes . They can also get fungal infections, which can be treated with a fungicide. Treat your plants as soon as you see a problem. High temperatures and low humidity can cause Pepper plants to lose their blossoms. In turn, cool weather can keep them from flowering. Deep cultivation can also cause blossoms to drop, as it can induce water stress if feeder roots are cut. Average Based on 1 Reviews Write a Review Hot Enough For Us Brutus from SC wrote (February 16, 2015): We cultivate about 18 varieties of peppers every year and these are the hottest we grow. They give quite a punch to just about anything. We like to use them to make hot sauce mostly, but we've also pickled, dried and frozen them. Habaneros have a fruity taste with plenty of heat. The fruity flavor comes out most if you wait to pick them until they are fully ripe and orange all the way around. The plants are usually loaded with peppers by August and we probably average 2-3 dozen peppers per plant. Picking them with your bare hands is fine, but wear gloves when you cut into them.

Highly recommend this variety for anyone who likes spicy food. Capsicum is the botanical name Pepper Capsicum Germination Information Sow indoors at 75-80°F. Start them 6-8 weeks before night temperatures remain above 55°F. Seeds can also be sown outdoors when the soil remains above 65°F in early summer. Indoors and out, sow at a depth of 4 times the size of the seeds and expect germination in 10-15 days. Plants will beat fruit in 50-80 days after sowing. How to Grow Capsicum: Transplant when there are at least two sets of true leaves. Plant out 2-3 weeks after last frost. Spacing: Space seedlings 18-24 inches apart in rows 30-36 inches apart. Soil: Site in full sum in arsh, well-drained soil. Keep plants well watered and mulch them to conserve moisture. Using a 1-2-2 ratio fertilizer, feed before planting and again lightly after 6 weeks.

Appearance and Use: This shrubby plant is grown for its edible fruit that are also highly ornamental and can be used in seasonal container displays. The fruits come in a variety of sizes, colors (green, red, yellow, orange, purple), shapes (rounded or oblong, tapered, bell-, horn-, hear-, or wedge-shaped), and degrees of sweetness and heat. Harvest them as soon as they are firm. They are edible in a variety of color stages(they mostly turn from green to red), so harvest them when they are at the right stage for that particular variety. They will hold in the field for 2-3 weeks: once harvested for a week or two. About Capsicum: Pronunciation: kap’si-kum an’u-um Lifecycle: Annual Origination: Solanaceae; Native to Tropical America Common Name:Pepper Vegetable Superior Germination Through Superior Science Park Seed offers some of the highest-quality vegetable and flower seeds available in the industry, and there are a number of reasons for this. First of all, we have humidity- and temperature-controlled storage, and we never treat any of our seeds with chemicals or pesticides.

Nor do we ever sell GMO's (genetically modified seeds), so you always know the products you're buying from us are natural as well as safe for you and the environment. Superior Standards - University Inspected To make sure we are providing the best seed product possible and that our customers will get the highest number of seedlings from every packet, we conduct our own germination testing and have quality-control measures in every stage of our seed-handling operation. We hold ourselves to standards that are at or above federal and state standards, including testing specific crops more frequently than recommended by federal guidelines. And in order to maintain our organic certification, we welcome Clemson University to inspect us annually to make sure our organic seeds, which are stored and processed separately, are being handled properly. Hand Packed By Experienced Technicians Park Seed has been handling and packing vegetable and flower seeds for 145 years, a history that has given us a great understanding of how each variety should be cared for and maintained throughout every step of theprocess, from collection to shipping. When packing our seeds, the majority are actually done by hand (with extreme care!), and we often over-pack them, so you're receiving more than the stated quantity.

The Park Seed Gold Standard And many of our seeds are packed in our exclusive Fresh-Pak gold foil packets, which are lined to keep moisture out, so the seeds stay fresher for longer. We carefully pack very tiny or fragile seeds in crush-proof vials to ensure safe delivery to your home. Some of the small seeds are also offered as "pellets" (have a clay coating) to make sowing and growing easier. When it comes to the kinds of seeds we offer, we are constantly seeking something new and provide many unique and hard-to-find varieties from all around the world. Our on-staff horticulturists are ready and available to share their expertise to help you with the success of these seeds, so you can grow a beautiful and productive garden! Does Park sell GMO's or treated seeds? It is important for our customers to know that Park Seed does not sell GMO or treated seed. We do buy a small amount of traditional hybrid seed from Seminis, a division of Monsanto Co., but that is all we purchase from them. What are the differences between organic, heirloom, and hybrid seed?

Basically, organic seeds are seeds that are produced without the use and exposure to artificial/chemical fertilizers, insecticides, fungicides, herbicides, and other chemicals. They have to be grown, harvested, stored, and handled under very strict organic rules and procedures. All of our organic seeds are USDA 100% certified organic through Clemson University and the certificate has to be renewed yearly. Heirloom Seeds are open-pollinated -- they are not hybrids. You can gather and save heirloom seed from year to year and they will grow true to type every year, so they can be passed down through generations. To be considered an heirloom, a variety would have to be at least from the 1940's and 3 generations old (many varieties are much older -- some 100 years or more!). Hybrid seed are the product of cross-pollination between 2 different parent plants, resulting in a new plant/seed that is different from the parents. Unlike Heirloom seed, hybrid seed need to be re-purchased new every year (and not saved).

They usually will not grow true to type if you save them, but will revert to one of the parents they were crossed with and most likely look/taste different in some way. What are pelleted seeds? Why do you use them? How do I handle/sow them? Extremely small seed such as Petunias and Pentas are shipped as pelleted seed to make them easier to handle and sow. Pelleted seed are coated, usually with clay, to make them larger in size. After sowing, the coating will dissolve when wet and the seed will germinate. Pelleted seeds are shipped in vials placed inside seed packets, which protects them from being crushed. When sowing, be certain to use thoroughly moistened soil, to be sure that the clay coating absorbs enough moisture to dissolve. For sowing pelleted Petunia seeds, place the seeds directly on the soil surface and do not cover with soil, as light aids in the germination. What is ideal temperature to germinate most seeds? The ideal temperature to germinate most seeds is approximately 70 degrees F; give or take 1-2 degrees either way.

This would be a good germination temperature for most flower and vegetable seeds and would be the most practical and feasible temperatures achieved for gardeners starting seeds in the home. You will notice for some seeds that it is recommended to use alternating day (warmer), night (cooler), temperatures, which is fine if one can provide such conditions. But most people are unable to provide those temperatures in a home setting, so just use the overall 70 degree F recommendation and the seeds should germinate well. How long should grow lights be kept on per day and how close to the plants should the light be kept? For germination and seedling/plant growth, you want to simulate the natural day-night cycles, and as a general rule, grow lights should be on 8-12 hours per day and off at night. You can vary this timing, as some seeds such as tomato, pepper, petunia, impatiens, and others, benefit from 14-17 hours of light per day (and the remainder of the 24 hour period in darkness). The most common grow lights used are fluorescent; using cool white, warm white, and wide-spectrum fluorescent tubes.

These lights work well for germination and for growing plants up to a transplantable size. Fluorescent lights should be kept close though, 3-6 inches above the soil or the growing plants, adjusting the height as the plants grow. How long will seeds keep in storage? Park Seed stores seed in a special temperature- and humidity-controlled storage facility, which keeps seeds in excellent condition. Our seeds should be good for at least 1-2 years on average. Seed viability and storage time will vary depending on the seed item; some will keep a shorter time and some will keep longer. Seeds should be stored in a cool, dark, dry place. A basement will do (if not too humid), or a cool, dark room or closet. We recommend the best way to extend seed storage life is to store them in something air tight, such as a plastic zipper storage bag or canning jar, and place it in the refrigerator. This will extend the life of seeds for many years. What is the best way to store seeds over a longer time period? We recommend the best way to extend seed storage life is to store seeds in something air tight, such as a plastic zipper storage bag or canning jar, and place it in the refrigerator.

This will extend the life of seeds for many years. What depth should I sow various seeds? When sowing seed outdoors, we recommend a maximum planting depth of 4X the width of the seed. When sowing seed indoors, the planting depth can be less, depending on the seed being sown, so it is always best to check specific directions. Here are some general guidelines concerning planting depth in relation to seed size: Tiny, dust-like seeds need to be sown on the surface of the growing medium or soil, uncovered, as they need light to germinate. The planting depth for small seed can be anywhere from barely covering, to 1/8-inch deep, to possibly 1/4-inch deep, depending on the recommendation. Medium seed should be planted at 1/4- to 1/2-inch deep, depending on the recommendation. Larger seeds can be planted 1-inch or deeper, depending on the recommendation. FAQ Does Park sell GMO's or treated seeds? It is important for our customers to know that Park Seed does not sell GMO or treated seed. We do buy a small amount of traditional hybrid seed from Seminis, a division of Monsanto Co., but that is all we purchase from them.

What are the differences between organic, heirloom, and hybrid seed? Basically, organic seeds are seeds that are produced without the use and exposure to artificial/chemical fertilizers, insecticides, fungicides, herbicides, and other chemicals. They have to be grown, harvested, stored, and handled under very strict organic rules and procedures. All of our organic seeds are USDA 100% certified organic through Clemson University and the certificate has to be renewed yearly. Heirloom Seeds are open-pollinated -- they are not hybrids. You can gather and save heirloom seed from year to year and they will grow true to type every year, so they can be passed down through generations. To be considered an heirloom, a variety would have to be at least from the 1940's and 3 generations old (many varieties are much older -- some 100 years or more!). Hybrid seed are the product of cross-pollination between 2 different parent plants, resulting in a new plant/seed that is different from the parents. Unlike Heirloom seed, hybrid seed need to be re-purchased new every year (and not saved).

They usually will not grow true to type if you save them, but will revert to one of the parents they were crossed with and most likely look/taste different in some way. What are pelleted seeds? Why do you use them? How do I handle/sow them? Extremely small seed such as Petunias and Pentas are shipped as pelleted seed to make them easier to handle and sow. Pelleted seed are coated, usually with clay, to make them larger in size. After sowing, the coating will dissolve when wet and the seed will germinate. Pelleted seeds are shipped in vials placed inside seed packets, which protects them from being crushed. When sowing, be certain to use thoroughly moistened soil, to be sure that the clay coating absorbs enough moisture to dissolve. For sowing pelleted Petunia seeds, place the seeds directly on the soil surface and do not cover with soil, as light aids in the germination. What is ideal temperature to germinate most seeds? The ideal temperature to germinate most seeds is approximately 70 degrees F; give or take 1-2 degrees either way.

This would be a good germination temperature for most flower and vegetable seeds and would be the most practical and feasible temperatures achieved for gardeners starting seeds in the home. You will notice for some seeds that it is recommended to use alternating day (warmer), night (cooler), temperatures, which is fine if one can provide such conditions. But most people are unable to provide those temperatures in a home setting, so just use the overall 70 degree F recommendation and the seeds should germinate well. How long should grow lights be kept on per day and how close to the plants should the light be kept? For germination and seedling/plant growth, you want to simulate the natural day-night cycles, and as a general rule, grow lights should be on 8-12 hours per day and off at night. You can vary this timing, as some seeds such as tomato, pepper, petunia, impatiens, and others, benefit from 14-17 hours of light per day (and the remainder of the 24 hour period in darkness). The most common grow lights used are fluorescent; using cool white, warm white, and wide-spectrum fluorescent tubes.

These lights work well for germination and for growing plants up to a transplantable size. Fluorescent lights should be kept close though, 3-6 inches above the soil or the growing plants, adjusting the height as the plants grow. How long will seeds keep in storage? Park Seed stores seed in a special temperature- and humidity-controlled storage facility, which keeps seeds in excellent condition. Our seeds should be good for at least 1-2 years on average. Seed viability and storage time will vary depending on the seed item; some will keep a shorter time and some will keep longer. Seeds should be stored in a cool, dark, dry place. A basement will do (if not too humid), or a cool, dark room or closet. We recommend the best way to extend seed storage life is to store them in something air tight, such as a plastic zipper storage bag or canning jar, and place it in the refrigerator. This will extend the life of seeds for many years. What is the best way to store seeds over a longer time period? We recommend the best way to extend seed storage life is to store seeds in something air tight, such as a plastic zipper storage bag or canning jar, and place it in the refrigerator.

This will extend the life of seeds for many years. What depth should I sow various seeds? When sowing seed outdoors, we recommend a maximum planting depth of 4X the width of the seed. When sowing seed indoors, the planting depth can be less, depending on the seed being sown, so it is always best to check specific directions. Here are some general guidelines concerning planting depth in relation to seed size: Tiny, dust-like seeds need to be sown on the surface of the growing medium or soil, uncovered, as they need light to germinate. The planting depth for small seed can be anywhere from barely covering, to 1/8-inch deep, to possibly 1/4-inch deep, depending on the recommendation. Medium seed should be planted at 1/4- to 1/2-inch deep, depending on the recommendation. Larger seeds can be planted 1-inch or deeper, depending on the recommendation. Things You May Need

Question: The Habanero is a variety of which vegetable?
Answer: CHILLI PEPPER