Brandy Carr Nurseries - leading producers of Yorkshire Rhubarb & Yorkshire Liquorice Plants. Brandy Carr Nurseries Rhubarb Liquorice Producers of Yorkshire Rhubarb and Yorkshire Liquorice plants. We hold the largest collection of rhubarb varieties, both culinary and ornamental, in West Yorkshire. Contact Details Rhubarb varieties growing at our Nursery The following is a list of the varieties we have growing at our nursery. They are not all available at present as some of the rare varieties are limited stocks. Culinary Varieties "I would like to dedicate this website to my mother, Joy Asquith and my father, Norman Asquith, he was a leading light within the rhubarb industry. Without their determination and drive I would not be where I am today." - Ben Asquith, Owner Content © 2007-2013 Brandy Carr Nurseries, Wakefield, West Yorkshire. Web Site Design © 2007-2013 2graphic.co.uk Which are the best rhubarb varieties to grow? - Telegraph Fruit and Vegetables Which are the best rhubarb varieties to grow?

If you want delicious rhubarb for cooking, now’s the time to plant it. Which? Gardening put the best varieties through a taste test Dark arts: A terracotta forcer has been used to produce some delicious early stems of ‘Victoria’ rhubarb Photo: Alamy 5:00PM BST 12 Jun 2015 Comments Rhubarb is unique: it is a vegetable (a leaf stalk) that’s most often used in desserts – you can even dip the stalks in sugar and eat them raw. It’s also a herbaceous perennial, dying down in autumn only to bounce back with incredible vigour in the spring. And it can be forced to produce sweeter and more succulent sticks by covering it with a terracotta forcing pot or a dustbin in January. For the best flavour, it’s worth investing in a named variety of rhubarb as it will give you years of eating. Which? Gardening tested 11 varieties to find the best flavoured – for results, see far right. How to grow rhubarb The best time to plant rhubarb crowns is from November to December when they are dormant, but you can wait until spring.

Rhubarb grows best in a sunny spot with rich, moist soil that doesn’t waterlog. Give it at least one metre to spread, and dig in plenty of well-rotted manure or garden compost. Plant the crown with the top bud just below the surface. Apply a balanced fertiliser, such as Growmore, each March, followed by a nitrogen fertiliser, such as dried blood or sulphate of ammonia, in June. Mulch with garden compost or well-rotted manure in autumn. You can propagate large clumps by chopping off younger pieces from the outside with a spade. Pieces that have a couple of healthy buds should produce a vigorous new clump in no time. Replace older clumps as they start to lose vigour. Rhubarb Picture: Alamy Buying advice Rhubarb is usually sold as a crown – the underground part of a one or two-year-old plant that survives over winter. It should have a couple of healthy buds. You’ll find a limited choice of varieties in garden centres. If you want unusual varieties, including the Best Buys, you’ll have to buy by mail order. Crowns cost about £10-£12 for three.

It’s best to wait until the second year before harvesting. Thompson & Morgan also sells “budded pieces” – a single healthy bud with a small piece of a larger crown – especially of more unusual varieties. They cost about £10 for two. These might take longer to establish, so you can’t expect a crop until the second spring. You can buy potted plants, but this is the most expensive option, up to £22.99 for a three-litre pot. Finally, you can grow rhubarb from seed, and ‘Glaskin’s Perpetual’ is a good choice. However, this was one of the poorest-tasting varieties in the taste test. Rhubarb in flower Rhubarb plants occasionally throw up large flower spikes. These are spectacular and would not be out of place in a large herbaceous border. Unfortunately, flowering weakens the plant and greatly reduces cropping. Cut off the flower stalks or discard the centre of an old clump – or propagate as described above. How to force Get an even earlier crop by covering the clump with a terracotta forcing pot or a plastic dustbin in January to exclude all light.

The crowns need a cold period followed by a frost-free period in the dark to produce a flush of pale, succulent stalks. If you force a plant, give it a year to recover before forcing again. How to harvest From April onwards, pull the stalks rather than cut them. You’ll find they detach easily without leaving a stump to rot. Discard the leaves as they are poisonous. Always leave three or four strong stems and keep pulling the young tender ones. You should stop picking in late June to allow the plant to recover and build up reserves for the next year. RHUBARB BEST BUYS The test The appearance of different rhubarbs was assessed – how they looked both raw and cooked. Also, the flavour, how mild and sweet they were. Finally, the texture – stems should be tender, not stringy. As rhubarb takes a few years to get going, a source of established clumps was needed to pick samples for a taste test. And there’s no better place than the National Trust’s Clumber Park in Nottinghamshire, where head gardener Chris Margrave grows more than 100 modern and heritage varieties.

The trial was restricted to 11 varieties that were readily available to buy and the samples were sent to a food lab, where a group of trained tasters cooked and assessed each variety. Best buys There were two top-performing varieties in the taste tests, and three others worth growing: 1 ‘Valentine’ for good taste and looks The last time Which? Gardening looked at rhubarb, in 1998, this variety was recommended. It is still worth seeking out, although it is not widely sold. The sticks were ridged, and the colour varied from deep red to green at the leaf end. When cooked, it held its shape and produced a clear, bright pink liquid. The tasting panel thought the aroma was fragrant, leafy and sweet. It was tender, moist but firm, and had a mild rhubarb flavour, slightly acidic and slightly bitter. It was the runner-up for flavour to ‘The Sutton’. Where to buy: DT Brown 2 ‘The Sutton’ for best flavour This was not the prettiest variety – the sticks were long and curved and streaked red and green – but it was the clear winner for flavour. It also cooked well, retaining its shape and producing a pale pink liquid.

The aroma was sweet and fragrant with a hint of acidity. In the mouth it was firm but tender, and not at all fibrous. The tasters described it as having moderate rhubarb flavour, slightly sweet and fragrant, with balanced acidity and a white-wine character. Where to buy: Ashridge Nurseries, Chris Bowers Three good varieties ‘ Victoria ’ best looking A well-established late variety, ‘Victoria’ stood out for appearance. It was a deep raspberry red at the base becoming greener towards the leaf. It held together well when cooked, but the flavour wasn’t as good as the others. It was acidic, slightly sweet and earthy, but fairly bitter. It is widely available. ‘Timperley Early’ best for forcing This wasn’t as attractive as ‘Victoria’, but held together when cooked. The texture was more fibrous and the flavour was fairly good, but not particularly sweet. This is one of the earliest varieties and a good choice for forcing if you want tender rhubarb in March and April. Where to buy: Crocus , Thompson & Morgan ' Livingstone’ an autumn cropper This wasn’t ready to include in the taste tests in May, but it’s sold as an autumn-cropping rhubarb.

If you want to extend the season it’s worth considering. Unlike other varieties, it doesn’t stop producing new shoots in summer. It's ready to harvest from September onwards. Where to buy: DT Brown, Mr Fothergill’s, Thompson & Morgan Buy Rhubarb from Telegraph Garden Shop. But 2 collections and get 1 free with this special offer. More > Varieties of Rhubarb History of Rhubarb Seeds Wildlife Nutrition Media Coverage Contact Us This page is devoted to photos and descriptions of the primary varieties of fresh rhubarb available at our farm. Current photos and descriptions are of five types: Victoria, Colorado Red, Turkish, Canada Red and Ornamental rhubarb. Our other varieties include Heirloom Red, Crimson Red, and numerous experimental varieties from Australia, Alaska and parts unknown. First a note about the identification and naming of rhubarb varieties. Identifying rhubarb cultivars is at best problematic and almost always unreliable. Most rhubarb growers name their plants either from the general characteristics they demonstrate or for the market appeal of the name. Few if any growers can trace the origin of the genetic material with any certitude. This is for several good reasons.

Firstly, there are 60-100 known varieties of rhubarb and there are no existing keys to help identify varieties. This is complicated by the fact that some sellers offer plants and roots germinated from seed, often without telling their customers. Such plants normally represent a new, hybrid variety and may not have much resemblance to their parent plants. Making it even worse is the fact that individual varieties change characteristics both during phases of annual growth and as they age over the years. It is very difficult to identify any variety with any confidence. We all do our best. However, you're best advised to rely on the description of the varieties characteristics than on the name associated with it. Second, a note about the characteristics associated with different varieties: It is generally accepted that the nutritional value of rhubarb does not vary significantly between varieties. The important differences are tartness (acidity), texture, flavor and color. Individual plants change their tartness, texture and flavor as the plants age and even throughout the annual growing cycle. They tend to grow more acidic and fibrous as the stalks age each year. Organically grown plants can remain productive for 20-25 years in the same location provided adequate nutrients are added to the soil annually.

Ignored, however, rhubarb will quickly deplete the soil. Most varieties are quite robust and can tolerate a wide variety of conditions. They simply become small and unproductive in poor conditions. They can grow in deep, forest shade or in full, intense sunlight. In general, the more light and the better suited the soil the larger, better tasting and longer lived the plant. Victoria Rhubarb an heirloom variety of green rhubarb Green on the inside, grading from red to green on the outside from the stalk to the leaf. Stalks are relatively long (2+ feet) and normally about 1 inch in d iameter but can be as thick as 2 inches in diameter. An early harvest variety normally peaking 2 to 3 weeks before red varieties. This variety is one of the best suited to our own growing conditions. The plants become enormous with an annual yield of up to 90 pounds of quality rhubarb apiece on 50 gallons of supplemental water in a semi-arid climate. The variety is medium tart with an excellent rhubarb flavor. Most of our own dishes are made from this variety. The stalks are smooth on the outside and the skin is thin.

They can be frozen and cooked without peeling. These photos are of Victoria. The 47" height is a week before harvest. In our field the plants achieve heights in excess of four feet and widths of 8 feet even though their root systems is limited to a dimater of 1-2 feet. Buy Rhubarb Plants - Order Rhubarb Crowns Online | Thompson & Morgan Thompson & Morgan have teamed up with the RHS to offer the first AGM cultivars from its 112 plant National Collection of Rhubarbs. These young plants will quickly mature, resulting in crowns big enough to harvest from 2 years after planting. Collection comprises 1 plant each of: Rhubarb 'Fultons Strawberry Surprise' - Strong, vigorous plants produce flushes of eye-catching, vivid red stems with a well balanced acidity. Rhubarb 'Giant Grooveless Crimson' - Uniform, bright red stems with a flavour that is less acidic than many cultivars. Estimated time to cropping once planted: 16-20 months. Estimated time to best yields: 28-32 months.

Useful links: 2 rhubarb plants - 1 of each variety Despatch: By end of February 2017 Rhubarb nutrition facts and health benefits Photo courtesy: roland Rhubarb is one of easy plants to grow and can last for many years (10-15 years) once established. It is usually propagated through implanting old rhizome (root) divisions. Well grown plant features 12 to 18 inches long leaf-petiole spreading at its top end into broad, heart shaped, dark-green leaf. It is these stalks (petioles) which are being used (up on discarding their top-leaf part) for human consumption. Its petioles (stalks) can be ready for harvesting from second year onwards when its stalks reach sufficient size of about one to two inches in thickness. Several cultivars exist. Some of the popular varieties grown inside the USA are Canada red, cherry red, Burgess-`Colossal’, MacDonald, ruby, valentine,…etc. Generally, red varieties preferred since they tend to have more subtle, and sweeter stalks. Health benefits of Rhubarb Rhubarb is one of the least calorie vegetables.

100 g fresh petioles carry just 21 calories. Nonetheless, it holds some vital phyto-nutrients such as dietary fiber, poly-phenolic anti-oxidants, minerals, and vitamins. Further, its petioles contain no saturated fats or cholesterol. The stalks are rich in several B-complex vitamins such as folates, riboflavin, niacin, vitamin B-6 (pyridoxine), thiamin, and pantothenic acid. Red color stalks carry more vitamin-A than in the green varieties. Further, the stalks also contain small amounts of poly-phenolic flavonoid compounds like ß-carotene, zea xanthin, and lutein. These compounds convert into vitamin A inside the human body and deliver same protective effects of vitamin A. Vitamin A is a powerful natural anti-oxidant which is required by the body for maintaining integrity of skin and mucus membranes. It is also an essential vitamin for healthy eye-sight. Research studies suggest that natural foods rich in vitamin A may help protect from lung and oral cavity cancers. As in other greens like kale , spinach , etc., rhubarb stalks too provide good amounts of vitamin-K.

100 g of fresh stalks provide 29.3 µg or about 24% of daily recommended intake of this vitamin. Vitamin K has a potential role in bone health by promoting osteotrophic (bone formation and strengthening) activity. Adequate vitamin-K levels in the diet help limiting neuronal damage in the brain; thus, has established role in the treatment of Alzheimer's disease. Its stalks also contain healthy levels of minerals like iron, copper, calcium, potassium, and phosphorus. However, most of these minerals do not absorb into the body as they undergo chelation into insoluble complexes by oxalic acid, which then excreted out. Selection and storage Fresh rhubarb stalks can be readily available in the markets from April until August. If you are growing them in the backyard, harvest its leaf petiole (stalk) by grabbing at its base, simultaneously pulling and twisting as you do it while shearing celery stalks. Immediately separate the petiole from its leaf part (leaf blade). Green tops of rhubarb contain oxalic acid as well as poisonous glycosides. Additionally, greens drain away nutrients from its stalk.

While buying from the markets look for fresh, firm, crispy bright-red color stalks. They usually put for sale in bunches along with other common greens. Avoid those stalks that feature dull, slump or bruise or blemishes on the surface. Beautiful rhubarb sections! Photo courtesy: kwbridge Once at home, harvested or purchased stalks should be placed in a plastic bag and stored inside the refrigerator set at 32°F and 95 percent relative humidity. This way, stalks can stay fresh for about 2-3 weeks. In the shops, one may also find ready-to-use, processed rhubarb preparations like canned, vaccum-packed, freeze-dried...etc. Preparation and serving methods Photo courtesy: lejoe Fresh rhubarb stalks feature rich sweet-tart flavor. In general, petioles of young crinkled leaf tops have less or no strings and have sweet flavor. To prepare: trim the ends using paring knife. Wash them in cold running water, gently scrubbing the surface using fingers. Cut stalks into 1/2-inch to 1-inch pieces using a paring knife.

Usually, their extreme tartness is somewhat tamed by addition of sugar, honey, syrups...etc. Here are some serving tips: Its crispy, juicy stalks can be used in the preparations of sauces, preserve, jellies, jams, syrups, sorbet, juice…etc. Rhubarb is best remembered for its delicious pies. It can also be used in the preparations of tarts, puddings, crumbs, pancakes, muffins, strudel,..etc. Safety profile Top greens of rhubarb should be avoided in cooking. Its leaf (blade) contains unusually high amounts of oxalic acid, a naturally-occurring substance found in some vegetables. 100 g of leaves contain about 0.59 - 0.72 mg of oxalates. Lowest published lethal dose (LDLo) of oxalate in humans is 600 mg/kg. Oxalate can cause severe toxic symptoms even at much lower concentrations than this on the human body. Symptoms may include burning in the eyes, mouth, and throat; skin edema, difficulty breathing. In severe cases, it can result in kidney failure, convulsions, coma, and death.

Rhubarb - Innvista Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum or R. rhaponticum – Family Polygonaceae) or (Rheum x hybridum [syn. Rheum x cultorum]) Rhubarb rhubarbe (French), Rhabarber (German), rabarbaro (Italian), ruibarbe (Catalan), ruibarbo (Spanish/Portuguese), rabarber (Dutch), rabarber (Danish/Swedish), rabarbra (Norwegian), raparperi (Finnish), reven (Russian/Bulgarian), rabarbar (Polish), rebarbarabor (Hungarian), rubarbura (Romanian), reon (Greek), rabarbara (Serbo-Croat), ravent (Turkish), ribas (Hebrew), rawand (Arabic), riwand (Persian), daio (Japanese) The Polygonaceae family includes about thirty genera and 750 species. The most important members are buckwheat , sorrel , and rhubarb. Rhubarb is the edible stalk of several related species. Botanically, it is classified as a vegetable.

However, in 1947, the US Customs Court at Buffalo, NY, ruled it a fruit since that is how it is normally eaten. The wild plants are all native to Asia. They prefer a cool climate, and flourish especially well in the general area of Mongolia and Siberia and near the Himalayas, where the rhizomes and crowns survive in the frozen ground all winter. Several of the species are inedible or used only for medicines . The ones of interest in the kitchen are R. rhaponticum and R. x hybridum, which belong to such places such as Mongolia and Siberia. A species of the Near East, R. ribes, is probably the one known in classical times. The Greek writer, Dioscorides, stated that the plant “rha” grew in the regions beyond the Bosphorus which was inhabited by barbarians. For this reason, it was subsequently called “rha-ponticum” or “rha-barbarum“. The traditional role of rhubarb was first and foremost that of a medicine.

The Chinese called it by such composite and descriptive names as “ta hwan” (the great yellow one), indicating a “recent” (possibly 4,000 years ago) knowledge of the plant, as all the plants they knew from ancient times have a root word of a single syllable. By about 200 BC, they knew to call Chinese rhubarb, R. officinale, and valued it medicinally. It later became an important article of trade from China to western Asia and to Arab countries. In England, it was originally grown as a powerful pergative, and imports for this purpose were estimated to be £200,000 at the time. The purgative principle in rhubarb is caused by a group of substances allied to chrysophanic acid, being present mainly in the root. The dried root was a popular remedy for a wide range of ills, and its monetary value rivaled that of expensive spices. In 1542, rhubarb sold in France for ten times the cost of cinnamon ; and, in 1657, the English price was almost three times that of opium.

Shipped from China through Russia to Europe, the Latin names were acquired en route, with a long etymological history in Greece, Latin, and Old French. The garden or culinary rhubarb is not the same as the medicinal varieties; but it was also developed in the East, where it was used in drinks and meaty stews. Culinary rhubarb was used in Italy in the late 17th century and by the French, who used it for making tarts and pies, in 1778. The first recipe to appear in England was in 1783 when John Farley (The London Art of Cookery) advocated slicing the stalks and then cooking them with gooseberries . Rhubarb was intoduced into Maine from Europe around 1790, and from there spread to market gardens around New England and Massachusetts. Utica, Michigan, declares itself to be the “rhubarb capital of the world”. Rhubarb contains few calories, however. Much sweetener needs to be added to make it palatable, thus destroying this advantage. It also contains significant amounts of calcium, potassium, and thiamin, as well as having laxative properties.

Rhubarb wilts easily if left in the refrigerator, but it does freeze well for later use. It also makes wonderful pies, crisps, puddings, sauces and jams. Only the stalks are eaten as a food. The leaves are poisonous, as they contain high amounts of oxalic acid. The stalks also contain oxalic acid, but the amount is no greater than that present in spinach and chard , dissipating when cooked. The central ribs of the leaves contains much more and should not be eaten. Early rhubarb has light red flesh, a green stalk-end, and a mild flavour. The maincrop has dark red flesh and is tangier-tasting. Generally, the redder the flesh, the less oxalic acid it contains. Depending on the variety, the stalks range from green to purplish-pink; but the forced varieties have spindly, tender bright pink or red stems and crowned with yellow leaves, making their flavour sweeter. The forcing of rhubarb to produce fruit out of season is done either by covering the plant with a pot to encourage growth in the spring or by the modern method of hothouse cultivation.

The practice has been observed in Afghanistan as well as in Western countries where it was accidentally discovered at the Chelsea Physic Garden early in the 19th century when crowns were covered in debris as a ditch was being cleared. Fortunately, a cleaner method is now used with terracotta jars. In Britain, the best and sweetest variety, Hawkes Champagne, comes very early and has thin, tender stalks. By comparison, the unforced summer rhubarb is coarse and sour. A great range of cultivars are found, including the following: Crimson red has a sharp distinctive, but sweet, flavour. Early champagne or Early red produces long delicious scarlet stalks. Glaskin’s perpetual is vigorus and tasty, and crops over a long period of time. Sutton was introduced by Suttons Seeds in 1893, and remains a tasty choice. Timperley early is a very early vigorous variety. Valentine has tender rose-coloured stalks, with a wonderful flavour, perfect for pies or jams. Victoria is an old reliable variety that varies in size. Zwolle seedling has good flavour and fragrance, and stays firm when cooked.

The secrets of the rhubarb triangle - Telegraph Garden Projects The secrets of the rhubarb triangle Growers in the heart of Yorkshire work by candlelight in the dead of night to produce the finest stalks in the country. Caroline Beck discovers how they do it Caroline Beck Comments When, three years ago, I took over an abandoned allotment in County Durham that was waist deep in weeds, what made me sign on the dotted line were the red stems and crinkled bronze leaves of rhubarb poking up among the nettles. And every year, when I see rhubarb force its way up through the soil, I long to eat a sweet, home-made crumble. Perhaps the reason rhubarb is so beloved of northern gardeners is that our cool, damp climate produces the sweetest, most succulent stalks and steals a march, for once, on our southern neighbours. It grows particularly well in West Yorkshire and the "rhubarb triangle" - sandwiched between Morley and Rothwell, to the south of Leeds, and Wakefield - has made the crop into something of a local celebrity. Most of the long strawberry-pink stems with yellow etiolated leaves that are in the shops at the moment come from here.

The industry grew up at the end of the 19th century. The heavy clay soil made growing easy, fuel to keep the forcing sheds warm was supplied by the Yorkshire coalfields and "shoddy", a by-product of the local wool industry, was used as a mulch for the tender rhubarb crowns. Before the Second World War, there were more than 200 growers in this area; now it's down to just 10. One of the biggest is E Oldroyd & Sons, a family-run business that has been growing rhubarb for more than a century. It's an expensive and labour-intensive activity. The crowns have to be grown outside for two seasons before being brought into large forcing sheds and kept in the dark. Warmth and moisture trick the plant into thinking it's spring. And then up it grows, red and sweet. Harvesting the crop begins around Christmas, starting with 'Timperley Early', and because natural light must be excluded from the sheds, picking is done by candlelight.

Until the early 1960s the "rhubarb express" train would take crates of the crop from Wakefield to the fruit and vegetable markets of Covent Garden and Spitalfields every night. Now, with tours of the candle-lit forcing sheds proving a tourist attraction, plans are afoot to revive the train - but in reverse, bringing tourists in from the south to Wakefield. Janet Oldroyd, a fourth-generation rhubarb grower, regularly gives talks about the crop and what she doesn't know isn't worth saying. "Let's get this over with," she says. "Rhubarb is a vegetable and not a fruit." Although her experience is at the commercial end of the market, she has tips for amateur gardeners, too. "You should plant fresh rootstock in a deep hole enriched with plenty of well-rotted muck. It's going to be there for some time, so make sure there are no perennial weeds." She recommends replacing the plant every eight years and moving it around the garden to prevent a build-up of disease.

"If you have a stalk that's persistently flowering, pull it up and get rid of it." Janet gets impatient with people who phone her up saying they've forced their rhubarb and that after a few years it's looking sickly. "Of course it is." she says. "We throw away our rootstock after forcing because it weakens the plant so much. If you're going to force it, you need to rest it. Don't pick it for the summer before or the summer after." For gardeners, she recommends two new varieties, Rheum x hybridum 'Stockbridge Arrow', a maincrop variety with a high yield and an excellent flavour, and 'Cawood Delight', which has an intense red colour and good flavour but a low yield. 'Queen Victoria', named after the rhubarb-loving monarch, also has a good flavour but, according to Janet, is very well named, because "she's a temperamental old bugger". The only way to harvest rhubarb is the "pick and twist" method. Don't cut stalks with a knife because this can introduce fungal infections. Instead, hold the stalk near the bud at the base and pull and twist firmly.

Just 20 miles outside the rhubarb triangle, the Royal Horticultural Society's northern garden at Harlow Carr, near Harrogate, holds one of two national collections of rheum. It grows more than 120 named cultivars, representing one of the biggest collections in the country. Allan Kavanagh, volunteer custodian of the National Plant Collection of culinary rhubarb, recommends planting the crowns of a named cultivar in the autumn. Crowns with at least three nobbly buds are the best, planted just below the surface of the soil to encourage them to put down strong roots. Although rhubarb loves moisture-retentive soil and, happily, northern gardens can oblige, don't choose a waterlogged site. If the soil is heavy, plant on a mound to help drainage. Don't pick for the first year because this will weaken the plant. Some stems can be picked the following season and after this you need never want for rhubarb again. Although it is relatively pest free, slugs can be a problem - especially when forcing pots are used. A gardener friend who hates losing her earliest crop to slugs recommends putting gravel around the outside of the forcer.

Rhubarb lost its popularity after the war. The sweet-toothed British had eaten it in abundance during the rationing years because it was often the only pudding available. I have childhood memories being virtually force-fed stringy, overboiled rhubarb by my thrifty grandmother. When smarter, more colourful pineapples, oranges and bananas came in from the tropics, rhubarb was consigned to abandoned allotments and kitchen gardens. Its revival is thanks in part to the trend for produce that hasn't clocked up more miles than Concorde. With some judicious planning, a few varieties can supply you with stalks from February to the first heavy frosts. 'Early Superb' or 'Timperley Early' are both good for forcing but will produce stems in late March or early April if left to their own devices. The second earlies start cropping in May. Many growers consider the best of these to be the "champagnes", which have a good red colour and are sweet and tender. 'Early Champagne', 'Hawke's Champagne' and 'Stein's Champagne' are all delicious.

For rhubarb addicts, 'Glaskin's Perpetual' and 'Zwolle Seedling' will produce until late summer or early autumn. Rheum can also be used in the ornamental garden and its large architectural leaves and fondness for moisture make it ideal for ponds and bogs. Rheum palmatum combines well with other damp and shade lovers, such as hostas, irises, hellebores and primulas, where their dramatic foliage and flower spikes add texture and height to planting. Where to buy J Tweedie Fruit Trees, Maryfield Nursery, nr Terregles, Dumfries DG2 9TH (01387 720880). Stocks about 30 cultivars. Send sae for catalogue. Mail order available. Chris Bowers & Sons, Whispering Trees Nurseries, Wimbotsham, Norfolk PE34 8QB (01366 388752). Stocks eight cultivars but is building up numbers of older cultivars. Send £2 for catalogue. Mail order available.

E Oldroyd & Sons (0113 282 2245; email eoldroyd@btconnect.com ). Sends out crowns for seasonal cropping and Janet Oldroyd is happy to advise novice growers. Where to see Rhubarb/RHS Gardening Problems Cultivation notes Any fertile garden soil can be used for rhubarb as long as it is well drained and in full sun. Crowns (‘sets’) can be cropped for ten or more years, though division may be necessary after about five years. Preparing the soil Although the large foliage can help smother weeds, the ground should be free from perennial weeds before planting. Dig in one to two bucketfuls of well-rotted organic matter such as manure, before planting. Planting Plant crowns in November or December. If necessary, planting can continue up to the beginning of March. Buy named cultivars or choose a division from a strong, healthy-looking plant. Plant the crown with the growing point at, or just below, the soil surface. On wetter soils planting with the buds just raised out of the soil may help prevent rotting.

If planting more than one crown, space plants 1m (3ft) apart, with 1-2m (3-6ft) between rows. Cultivation In hot summers, if the ground becomes dry, growth will slow down and even stop. A spring mulch of well rotted organic matter 7cm (2½in) deep will help to retain moisture but do not bury the crowns. Plants will also respond to watering during prolonged dry periods in summer. Apply a general fertiliser such as growmore in spring or summer at 70g per sq m (2oz per square yard). Allow the foliage to die back naturally in autumn then cut away the old leaves to expose the growing points to winter cold. There is no harm in adding these leaves to the compost heap as the poisonous oxalic acid contained in them breaks down during decomposition. Harvesting Stalks can be picked from March or April onwards for early cultivars and late April or May onwards for maincrop cultivars. Cropping of new stalks continues throughout summer, as required. The last harvest is usually in late summer, around July or August, though growth may have stopped before this if the weather is very hot.

Do not harvest in the first season after planting and harvest only lightly in the second season to avoid weakening the crowns. From seedling plants, harvest in the second season after planting or in the first season after division. Stalks should be pulled rather than cut to prevent rotting of the remaining stump. Pull stalks when they are between 23-30cm (9in-1ft) long, holding them at the base and pulling gently outwards. Take no more than half the total stalks at any one time. Concern is sometimes expressed over the concentrations of oxalic acid building up as the season progresses. However, this build-up is mostly in the leaves which are not eaten and the amount in the stalks is not sufficient to have a toxic effect. Forcing For an early harvest of tender and pink rhubarb, cover the crowns in December or January with a layer of straw or bracken and cover over with an upturned bucket or a traditional clay rhubarb pot to exclude light. Stalks will be ready to pull two to three weeks earlier than uncovered crowns. For an even earlier harvest, lift some roots in November.

Ideally leave the lifted roots outside for up to two weeks prior to potting to expose them to more cold - this is needed to overcome dormancy. Then pot up with compost and bring into a cool room or greenhouse at a temperature of between 7-16ºC (45-60ºF). Exclude light with buckets or black polythene over crates. Keep the roots damp but not wet. Stalks can usually be harvested in five weeks. Crowns forced in this manner are usually much weakened and therefore discarded after harvest. Propagation Seed Sow seed in spring (March/April) 2.5cm (1in) deep in a seedbed or individually in modules. If in a seedbed thin seedlings to 15cm (6in) apart, choosing the most vigorous seedlings. The resulting plants will be more variable than named clones. Plant out in autumn or the following spring. Division Division will guarantee a plant identical to the parent and is the most common method of propagation. It is also good practice to divide established crowns about once every five years if they have become weak or overcrowded. Lift crowns between autumn and early spring (usually in November).

Use a spade to divide the crown into sections each retaining a portion of the rhizome (thickened root) and at least one growing point. Sections from the outer part are better than the centres of old plants. Discard any old or decayed parts of the crown. Replant straight away or wrap in damp sacking until ready to plant. Cultivar Selection There are plenty of good rhubarb cultivars to choose from. See Harvesting section for season of harvesting and forcing. ‘Champagne’ – a very early cultivar with long, pale pink, thin stalks. Excellent for forcing. ‘Early Cherry’ – bright reddish-pink base with red flecking on green towards top. Flesh green. Thick stalks. 'Fulton's Strawberry Surprise' – uniformly red stalks even late in the season. Performed well in flavour tests. Can be grown in large containers. 'Grandad's Favourite' AGM - very early variety. Vigorous with thick stems and good colour. Suitable for showing . ‘Hawke’s Champagne’ – even currant red colour throughout length of stalk. Flesh pale green through to pink. Leaves heart-shaped and attractive. Vigorous.

Reliable early variety. 'Reed Early Superb' AGM - reliable maincrop variety. Suitable for showing . ‘Timperley Early’ AGM – base deep red, passing to light green with red flecking. Does not hold colour well. Green flesh with reddish tinges. Heavy cropper. Good for forcing. Disappointing in Harlow Carr taste tests. Frost susceptible. ‘Victoria’ – Late, cardinal red stalks with flecking at top. Red flesh tinged green. Very thick stalks. Popular old variety. Problems Flowering: Some cultivars can be more prone than others. Remove flower stalks as soon as they appear to prevent them weakening the crowns. Flowering is usually worse after wet summers or where high nitrogen feed has been overused. Thin, weak stalks: Lots of thin stalks indicate the crown is losing vigour and needs to be divided (see ‘Propagation’). Increased feeding may also help. Split stalks, sometimes exuding sticky sap: This is sometimes caused by late frosts but is often an indication of erratic growth due to seasonal conditions. Cool or dry periods followed by moist or mild weather means the hard outer growth splits when the new, rapid growth occurs.

Mulching and feeding may help to avoid the worst damage. Green, poor quality stalks: Warm, dry summers can give rise to poorly-coloured, bad-tasting stalks. Try to harvest earlier while the days are cooler and moister. Slow or no growth: Rhubarb will stop growing if the temperature rises above 32ºC (90ºF). This can happen in hot summers. Growth can also slow or stop if the plants are under drought stress so watering may help. See also... Rhubarb Crowns - IDigMyGardenï¿½ Forums Rhubarb Crowns Rhubarb Crowns I currently have a victoria rhubarb, however I want to add to my collection. The local nurseries only seem to have victoria so does anyone know a good supplier of big beafy red rhubarb crowns? __________________ I'm not bad, I'm just drawn that way. -Jessica Rabbit It does not matter where or whom you were born. It's what you do with the gift of life that was given you that matters.

- unknown tsuyako Quote: Originally Posted by tsuyako I currently have a victoria rhubarb, however I want to add to my collection. The local nurseries only seem to have victoria so does anyone know a good supplier of big beafy red rhubarb crowns? I would love that info too. If anyone has had experience with the varieties Canada Red or Crimson Red I would be interested in your observations regarding flavor and productivity, and any disease issues. Wind Dancer where is the best and cheapest mail order source for rhubarb crowns??? englishpea13 Re: Rhubarb Crowns I planted Canada Red -from the SS co-op (not good quality) and Victoria -from local farmer (pretty good quality). But if I were willing to pay a little bigger price I'd buy from Johnny's in Maine. If only because the asparagus crowns I got from them last year were superb. I'm about ready to try it from seed, even we're talking at least 2 years longer.

JJJessee USDA Zone: No zone info Posts: 540 Re: Rhubarb Crowns I don't think there is much difference at all for time to harvest between buying crowns vs growing from seed. Both can give a nibble in year 1 and both are best left untouched until year 2. Seeds will give more plants to allow the taking of 1 stalk per plant so as not to reduce growing performance. I am growing Victoria which is established and was from seed, a few of which is being forced currently. Also for this year I have purchased crowns of Timperly Early, Stockbridge Arrow and champagne, and have seeds on the go of Glaskins Perpetual. That lot should give me a good choice of crops. Eristic Wow, that's a lot of rhubard varieties available to you. I'm re-immigrating . That's good to know on the seed vs crown thing. JJJessee Re: Rhubarb Crowns Thanks JJJessee! I actually forgot I do have some Glaskins Perpetual (I know that's spelt wrong) seeds that I got a few years ago.

I do remember them not having a very good germ rate and the one that did germinate just 'vanished' one day from under my grow lights. I'm still trying to figure that one out... I will check out Johnny's website Edit: All they have is Victoria as well __________________ I'm not bad, I'm just drawn that way. -Jessica Rabbit It does not matter where or whom you were born. It's what you do with the gift of life that was given you that matters. - unknown tsuyako Quote: Originally Posted by Eristic I don't think there is much difference at all for time to harvest between buying crowns vs growing from seed. Both can give a nibble in year 1 and both are best left untouched until year 2. Seeds will give more plants to allow the taking of 1 stalk per plant so as not to reduce growing performance. I am growing Victoria which is established and was from seed, a few of which is being forced currently. Also for this year I have purchased crowns of Timperly Early, Stockbridge Arrow and champagne, and have seeds on the go of Glaskins Perpetual. That lot should give me a good choice of crops.

I read somewhere that primarily green stemmed varieties such as 'Macdonald' and 'Glaskins Perpetual' produce up to twice as many sound stems as the red stemmed varieties. Wish there had ben some info on the flavor of those varieties. Wind Dancer Re: Rhubarb Crowns I have over a hundred rhubarb plants and find a huge difference in varieties. Victoria is a classic, but there are much better ones. My favorite is an heirloom passed down in my family. It is very hardy, has small red stalks, and is very sweet. Other than that, my favorite commercial variety is Valentine, which has huge, bright red stalks, and good sweetness. Canada Red is very good. I believe you can get both from Daisy Farms in Michigan. Nourse in Mass. sells another classic--MacDonald. They used to offer Tilden but now only carry Cawood. I've also tried Starkrimson from Starks. It's ok. Most rhubarb roots are quite expensive, running $7-$8 a piece. You can, however, get decent Victoria roots from Simmons Plant Farm in Ark. for $1.60 each.

The biggest mistake made with rhubarb is burying the plant. Leave the top of it exposed, or it is subject to rot. Rhubarb is also a heavy feeder and likes a lot of aged manure or compost--just don't cover it. If the rhubarb takes off well, it needs divided about every 5 years, or stalks will become crowded and diminish in size and quality. You can increase your patch that way too. brookw Quote: Originally Posted by brookw I have over a hundred rhubarb plants and find a huge difference in varieties. Victoria is a classic, but there are much better ones. My favorite is an heirloom passed down in my family. It is very hardy, has small red stalks, and is very sweet. Other than that, my favorite commercial variety is Valentine, which has huge, bright red stalks, and good sweetness. Canada Red is very good. I believe you can get both from Daisy Farms in Michigan. Nourse in Mass. sells another classic--MacDonald. They used to offer Tilden but now only carry Cawood. I've also tried Starkrimson from Starks. It's ok.

Most rhubarb roots are quite expensive, running $7-$8 a piece. You can, however, get decent Victoria roots from Simmons Plant Farm in Ark. for $1.60 each. The biggest mistake made with rhubarb is burying the plant. Leave the top of it exposed, or it is subject to rot. Rhubarb is also a heavy feeder and likes a lot of aged manure or compost--just don't cover it. If the rhubarb takes off well, it needs divided about every 5 years, or stalks will become crowded and diminish in size and quality. You can increase your patch that way too. Thank you SO much! I actually think $7-$8 is pretty cheap since most of what I have found has been in the $13 area. __________________ I'm not bad, I'm just drawn that way. -Jessica Rabbit It does not matter where or whom you were born. It's what you do with the gift of life that was given you that matters. - unknown tsuyako

Question: Valentine, Glaskins Perpetual and Hawke's Champagne are varieties of which food plant?
Answer: Rhubarb