Squab - Poultry Hub Squab Egyptian farmers raise more than 70% of the squabs on a global basis. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons Squab Production Domesticated pigeons (Columbia livia domesticia) are raised for racing and ornamental purposes and for meat production mainly as young birds (squabs). The ancient Egyptians were one of the first to produce squabs for the table and this practice spread to Rome and Medieval Europe. Today, Egyptian farmers raise more than 70% of the squabs on a global basis. They grow at a rapid rate and have a prodigious appetite, and depend on their parents to provide nourishment in the form of ‘crop milk’ which is stimulated by the hormone prolactin (as is also done by some other avian species such as some flamingos and penguins). The composition of the milk changes as the squab ages. Initially it is high in fat and protein with high levels of the essential amino acids. Production of crop milk declines and ceases in the female earlier than in the male which allows her to lay two more eggs and to incubate them, assisted by the male. Eggs will hatch at 17 days.

In a breeding season, which is September to January, one pair of pigeons will produce 12 to 15 squabs, each weighing about 500 g at 24 to 28 days of age when lactation has already ceased and they have full feather cover. Dressing out is about 350 g, although this will vary with the breed. The meat is dark in colour and similar to that of duck meat. Squab Production in Australia The industry has grown from about $6.2 million in 2002 to close to $11 million today. There an Australian Poultry Squab Producers Federation which has members in most of the states. These family-run farms typically have 500 to 1500 breeding pairs, which produce 6,000 to 12,000 squabs per year. Some rely on outside processing plants to process their squabs and others rely on other game bird producers to market their already processed squabs. They are held in breeding pens or lofts with wire mesh or solid floors with wood shavings and holding 20 to 30 pairs.

The pen is either closed or with an open flight area depending on the climate. They are best suited to dry, temperate conditions. There are two raised nest boxes per pair to accommodate the two squabs still being fed and this also allows for the hen to incubate her eggs for the next hatch. Pigeons are housed according to age. Young birds of similar age are kept together, as are first time breeders. There are several different breeds, which are often cross breeds, used for squab farming but the White King (750 to 850 g) crosses from the United States are the most favoured. The slightly smaller Red Carneaux from France is also used in breeding programs. Breeding pigeons are left to their own devices when it comes to nest building and pine needles, straw or wood shavings are left in a pile in a rack. Pigeons are sexually mature at about seven to eight months. The female will breed for approximately eight years and the male for five years. Pigeons are usually given a choice of grains, legume seeds such as peas and whole or oil-extracted oil seeds with access to grit and minerals and vitamins.

As their nutrient needs will vary with stage of lactation and when incubating eggs, the birds will alter their selection of feed ingredients. Some producers feed their pigeons a formulated, pelleted diet with whole grain available separately. It takes about 3 kg of feed for parents to grow one squab to 500 g. As crop milk is initially very high in water, pigeons need about one litre per day for five birds and there should also be water separately for bathing. Some producers maintain that crop milk is produced by the lactating pair for no more than 10 days and that the parents then regurgitate grain to feed the squabs. The squabs are sent to the processing plant at about 28 to 32 days and dress out at 200 to 500 g. The price of grains has risen to the extent that few new farmers are now entering the business, which is only marginally profitable, although there is no shortage of consumer demand, mainly from the Asian population. Chinese and French restaurants are the main customers and squabs can be bought in some farmers’ markets. Provided the pens are kept dry and clean and management is of a high standard, bird health should not be a problem.

Weak and unhealthy birds should be removed immediately. However, the round worm, Ascaridia Galli, is a common internal parasite, and lice and red mites are external parasites in pigeons. Chronic respiratory disease, pigeon pox and coccidiosis are sometimes seen in birds. Silkiness of feathers is an external indicator of peak bird health. Information kindly provided by Dr. David Farrell eCHOOK NEWS Raising Squab and Raising Guinea Fowl - Sustainable Farming - MOTHER EARTH NEWS Video Raising Squab and Raising Guinea Fowl In this excerpt from "Practical Animal Husbandry," Jack Widmer explains practices and procedures for raising squab and raising guinea fowl. By Jack Widmer A pair of squab at 24 days of age MOTHER EARTH NEWS STAFF The following is an excerpt from "Practical Animal Husbandry" by Jack Widmer, published in 1949 by Charles Scribner's Sons and reprinted with their permission. Squab Production The production of squab is practically no trick at all.

Pigeons are not subject to the diseases that make turkey raising somewhat hazardous, they do not require the mixing of feeds, and once mated they will be productive for at least five years. The adult members of the loft feed their own young and take excellent care of them, thus eliminating the need for incubators or brooders. They produce squab that are ready for the table at one month of age, and will do this at a very reasonable figure. They cause little worry to the producer and are very clean when provided with bathing water daily and are amusing birds to have on the farm. Pigeons require very little space . . . a 12' X 12' shed together with a 12' X 12' flyway will house 30 pairs and each couple will produce from 12 to 16 squabs annually and will do this on less than 90 pounds of feed per twosome. Then too, pigeons will produce the year around thus making it unnecessary to kill, dress, and store a number of birds at one time as is the case with chicken friers, turkeys, ducks, and geese.

Yet squab are very adaptable to deepfreeze storage and will keep almost indefinitely at zero degrees Fahrenheit. Suitable Breeds for Squab Production There are a vast number of breeds of pigeons, many of which are suitable for the production of squabs. Of them all the King breed together with the Carneau are the most popular and are the most extensively used by commercial producers. The King is a prolific, full-breasted bird, does very well in confined quarters, and produces the largest of squabs ranging in weight from 16 to 24 ounces at 25 to 30 days of age. The Carneau, a French breed, is also very prolific . . . however, their squabs are usually smaller than the King. The remaining breeds that have been used as meat pigeons are the French Mondain, Homer, and Swiss Mondain. Choice of breed will therefore depend on the personal taste of the squab raiser and on the breeds that are available in any given community. Though pairs of pigeons may be shipped long distances, the beginner might find it advisable to purchase breeding stock close to home so as to overcome some of the handicaps of selection.

Breeding Stock Throughout this work we have continually stressed the the importance of dealing with reputable breeders when purchasing foundation stock, and although this is of importance in the purchase of other members of the barnyard kingdom, it is absolutely imperative in the selection of pigeons. If this is not done, success of squab raising is very doubtful for it is most difficult to determine either the age or sex of pigeons and the uninitiated can very easily wind up with a number of old birch and most of them males. Therefore, pigeons must never be purchased except from breeders who are willing to guarantee both the sex and age of the birds. It is best to purchase young pigeons that are about to mate for the first time. These birds should be in the neighborhood of eight months of age and if young birds are procured, they will have a useful breeding life of from five to six years. Mating Squab Mating of pigeons may sometimes be a problem and there are two general methods: [l] Natural mating. [2] Forced mating. In the first method, all the pigeons, are placed in a common pigeon roost and are permitted to do their own selecting.

As they pair off they should be separated from the rest until all the matings have been accomplished, after which time they can be again permitted to be together. In the second method, a known male and a known female are confined to a small pen and will usually mate in due time after considerable strutting and general noise making. Pigeons usually mate in pairs and usually remain true to their mates for life although there are numerous records of matrimonial strife in the pigeon roost, which usually en ds in complete reconciliations and excellent egg production. Some pigeons will mate again after having lost their original mate. However, this is not always the case and there is but one cure for such faithfulness . . . pigeon pie. Several pairs (up to 30) may live in the same roost and flyway. Each pair should be supplied with a double nest—a partitioned orange crate is ideal—and each nest should have a platform attached to the front of the nest so as to facilitate landings. Their housing facilities may be very simple.

In warm climates the pigeon roost may be a low shed opening to the south and leading directly onto the flyway, while in more severe climates it is advisable to wall up the south side (together with the other three) allowing for ample window space so that the interior of the pigeon house will have plenty of light. Ventilation is also very important and the house should be so constructed that windows may be removed during the summer months. The flyway need not be excessively large—a 12' X 12' flyway will accommodate at least 30 pairs—and it may be constructed of chicken wire at least six feet in height and the entire contraption should be so constructed that rats may be kept out of both house and flyway. Roosts should be provided in the flyway, and nesting boxes so placed inside the house as to make them convenient for the feeder. Of course passageways from the flyway to the nests must be open at all times, and houses constructed so that all feeding may be accomplished either from the outside of the pen or inside the houses from a narrow alleyway . . . which will eliminate much of the work of pigeon feeding.

As to size of house to build, it might be suggested that three square feet of floor space be supplied for each pair of pigeons maintained. Once mated, there is little that need be done except to permit nature to take its course. Females will lay an egg, will then skip a day, and lay another. That's all for egg production for they will incubate but two eggs at a time. This incubation period is about 17 days and both parents sit on the nest taking turns between feeding, bathing, and exercising. Once hatched, the squabs will start eating immediately, and this feeding of the young is also handled by both male and female parent. All the pigeon fancier need do is to provide the feed for the adults . . . they will feed their squabs shortly after they themselves are fed and should not be disturbed during this time. They feed the squabs on a thick, creamy mixture often termed "pigeon milk" produced in the crops of the adults and fed directly into the mouths of the young. Females usually start laying the second pair of eggs before the first pair are old enough to leave the nest, and it is for this reason that twin nests are provided for each pair.

Again, the male will assist the female in the building of the nest, and the pigeon grower must be ready to move the first egg from the old nest (which contains the original squabs) should the female lay her egg in the original nest. It should be placed in the second nest and the female will then lay her second egg in the new nest after a day's interval. Of course, the adult's day is then spent in a dual fashion . . . feeding the hatched squabs and the incubation of the second set of eggs. This work is divided between male and female who seem to divide these duties very handily and the pigeon fancier need not be concerned with these domestic problems. Feeding of Pigeons Feeding of pigeons is different from that of other fowl inasmuch as it is not necessary to feed them any mash. Instead, pigeons are fed only on a grain mixture and they may be fed in a self-feeder if this is desired. They should be fed a relatively high protein feed—somewhat over 14% available protein—and minerals should be fed in a separate mixture. An excellent pigeon ration may be made up as follows: Whole yellow corn . . . . . . . . . . .

. . . . . 30.0 Cow peas or field peas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.0 Hard wheat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20.0 Vetch or hempstead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 This feed contains over 14% protein and during warm summer months the corn may be cut down and the kafir increased as it is not necessary to feed heating rations during very warm weather. In addition to the above a mineral mixture—made up as follows—should be fed in a separate feeder: Medium-sized crushed oyster-shell. . . . . . . . . 40.0 Limestone or granite grit. . . . . . . . . . . . . 35.0 Medium-sized charcoal. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15.0 Ground limestonel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.5 Salt . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

4.0 Venetian red . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 This mineral mixture is kept before the flock at all times as they will not overeat and no harm can come from their helping themselves to all they require. Of course commercial mixtures of both feed and minerals may be purchased by those who do not care to mix their own: If the birds are fed in a self-feeder, this feeder should be filled at least every other day. Most pigeon fanciers prefer to hand-feed their birds in troughs that are placed inside the pigeon house—usually at the base of the alleyway partition—so that it is not necessary for the attendant to enter the pigeon enclosure. They should be fed twice daily and are given all that they will clean up within an hour after feeding. Of course fresh water is supplied—drinking fountains save time in this regard—and a bathing pan is set in the yard, the water changed daily. Pigeons love to bathe and insist on clean water. Here on Toowoomba, we have a small door leading from the flyway to the outside through which we pass the bathing pans, thus eliminating the need for going into the pen.

Squab Sanitation It is difficult to produce squab under any but the most sanitary conditions. The problem is simplified if one is prepared to devote a few minutes each day to the pigeons' maintenance. Floors of pigeon houses should be of board or concrete construction so that they may be cleaned at least once a week, and flyway floors should be covered with fine gravel so that they may be raked out at least once every ten days. Pigeons are not subject to many diseases. However, the prevention of the diseases that do affect them is much simpler than is their cure. Nests should be cleaned out after each pair of squabs has been butchered, and plenty of clean, coarse straw should be kept on hand so that the pigeons may arrange fresh nests for each setting of eggs. Pigeons that show signs of lice should be dusted with sodium fluoride (we make a practice of doing this twice annually despite the fact that we have never had lice among the birds) and the entire house should be sprayed with some sort of cresol solution at least twice a year.

Watering and feeding facilities should be kept clean and leftover feed should not be permitted to collect in the bottom of the feeders as these grains will soon sour and will be detrimental to the flock. Bathing water should be changed daily (for the birds will often drink from their baths) and fresh gravel should be scattered on the floor of the flyway at least twice each year. All this may sound complicated and time consuming. However, the beginner will be amazed at the small amount of time necessary if filth is never permitted to collect. The Finished Product Squabs are at their prime at from 26 to 30 days and should be collected from the nests the evening before butchering. This will permit the craws to empty and will lessen the labor of cleaning. The squabs are usually dry-picked and are butchered before pin feathers have a chance to form under the wings. All body temperature should be removed by placing the picked squabs in cold water and if properly wrapped they will keep in a deepfreeze unit at zero degrees Fahrenheit from 8 to 10 months.

Now and then it will be necessary for the pigeon fancier to maintain a few squabs for replacements, or he may wish to increase his number of pairs (as we did) and will want to save some of the young. This is no problem, for the adults will continue to feed the young until they voluntarily leave the nest and begin to eat by themselves. It is wise to keep squabs from the best producers in the flock and to mark them with leg bands while they are still in the nest. It must also be remembered that usually one of the pair of squabs is larger than the other and that the larger one is usually the male. If, then, the larger is marked with one colored band and the smaller with another, the final determination of sex is often facilitated. Should the country dweller produce more squabs than he requires for his personal use he will soon discover that there is a very good market for his surplus. Many pigeon fanciers have developed an excellent local trade for both squabs and breeding-age stock, and the disposal of surplus stock is usually a simple matter.

Guinea Fowl Guinea fowl have been successfully raised on many small establishments and although they have several disadvantages, they are interesting to produce and we have always maintained a few of these handsome birds. They are often served as a substitute for game and although their meat is reasonably dark, they do have a distinctive flavor that has made them a favorite with many of discriminating taste. It is true that they have a wild, harsh cry that some find objectionable, but they do act as excellent watchdogs for the barnyard, will fight off chicken hawks, and will sound the alarm if intruders are present on the establishment. They are not as easy to rear as are chickens, ducks, or geese, and they are often hard to catch. They are difficult to produce unless they have considerable freedom of range, yet once started they do very well with a minimum of care. In some sections of England they have been used as replacements for grouse, for after they have reverted to a wild state they make excellent game birds. Species of Guinea Fowl There are several varieties of guinea fowl which derive their name from the country of Guinea, on the west coast of Africa. In their native country they are found in dozens of varieties.

However, the domestic fowl found in the United States are the Pearl, White and Lavender, of which the Pearl seems the most popular. Beginning With Guineas Getting a start with guineas may prove quite a problem. It is often difficult to purchase adult birds, and it is usually equally difficult to find hatcheries that will supply day-old guineas. Yet the approach to guineas may again be classified into three categories, the choice of which will usually depend on availability: [1] purchase of day-old guineas; [2] purchase of adults ready to breed; [3] purchase of setting eggs for incubation under either chicken or turkey hens, or artificial incubators. Day-Old Guineas Day-old guineas must be brooded under either a setting chicken or turkey hen. It is impossible to brood them in an artificial brooder as they often perish in close confinement . . . which is necessary with artificial brooding. In addition to chicken and turkey hens, considerable success has been had by some breeders when guinea eggs have been placed under Japanese Silkies and the various breeds of banties.

Upon arrival from the hatchery the guinea chicks are placed under the hen much in the same manner as prescribed under "Day-old Chicks.". A chicken hen will care for from 18 to 24 guineas, while the larger turkey hen will rear from 25 to 30. Hens must be freed from lice before they are used for this purpose, and the hens should be shut up in brooding coops so that they will not lead the young through damp grass—thus permitting the sensitive young guineas to catch cold—for at least the first three or four days. After that, the hen may be released and should be allowed to roam at will, for the young guineas will stay close to her at all times. Guineas may be fed much in the same manner as young chicks. However, they will require less feed than chicks for they are natural grazers and utilize all manner of weed and grass seed as well as being extremely apt at the catching of insects. Home-Grown Guineas When mature guineas are purchased the buyer must be very careful to obtain birds of both sexes.

Guineas are not easily distinguishable as to sex, and one requires considerable experience before being able to tell them apart. The male does possess a larger helmet than the female and the wattles are also larger in the male in comparison to the size of the head. There are those people who claim that they can tell the sexes apart by the sound of the cry, but we have never become so astute. Guineas, in the natural state, are monogamous. However, in captivity, they will breed in trios, and if no other males are present, some guinea males will breed up to ten females. The breeding birds are fed a laying ration during the laying season and eggs should be collected daily. Some guineas that have been reared under chickens or turkey hens will use laying houses, but most guineas prefer to lay in nests of their own choosing and these nests must be located before the eggs have had a chance to spoil. Two eggs should be left in each nest as nest eggs and the balance of the eggs should be collected and stored at a maximum temperature of 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

Guinea hens will lay from 25 to 30 eggs before becoming broody, and if eggs are collected regularly, they may lay as many as 50 to 60 eggs during the laying season which usually runs from late April to late July. Some fanciers permit the guinea hens to set on their own eggs . . . however, by their wild nature they are poor nesters and poorer mothers. The eggs, therefore, should be set under either chicken or turkey hens and eggs should be sprinkled with warm water every four days. Guinea eggs may be successfully hatched in an artificial incubator, but guineas seem to do better when a hen is used. Chicken hens will set on from 15 to 18 guinea eggs and turkey hens upwards from 20. The incubation period is about 26 days. As with ducks and geese, chicken hens must be confined to the nest after the first of the guineas begin to pip so as to give the late hatchers a chance to hatch before the hen leaves the nest.

After the guineas are from two to three weeks old they may be fed on cracked grains instead of mash and as they grow to eight weeks they may be fed whole grains to an advantage. They soon learn to roost and will do so in trees or on some man-made arrangements, and if they have been brooded by a chicken hen they may even be induced to roost in a chicken house. Young guineas become very attached to their foster mother and often will remain with her until they have become fully grown. This attachment is very helpful when one wants to catch the guineas for those raised in the wild state are most difficult to apprehend without the aid of a shotgun. The Finished Product Guinea fowl are usually butchered at about three months of age when they should weigh from two to three pounds. At this size they make delicious broilers and if kept beyond this age their meat has a tendency to become tough. They are butchered much in the same manner as turkeys and will keep very well in deepfreeze units. It is true that everyone who tries to raise guineas will not have the best of results for they do require considerable range and do better when they have natural cover such as found in river and creek bottoms, etc.

It must always be remembered that they are still on the wild side of life and not every farm is suitable for their production. But for those who like to experiment, and for those who do not object to having the birds run loose about the place, the guinea fowl will supply excellent food for the table. They are certainly worth trying and they require little care, no housing and very little feed beyond that which they will find for themselves. Back in 1949—before factory farming and the "pump 'em full of chemicals" school of agriculture blitzed the country a fellow named Jack Widmer wrote a little book called PRACTICAL ANIMAL HUSBANDRY. Now that manual wasn't what you'd call completely exhaustive, the writing style wasn't the best and a few of the ideas it advanced-such as confining laying hens in cages—were later refined into the kind of automated farming that so many of us are fighting against these days. Still, PRACTICAL ANIMAL HUSBANDRY contained a good deal of basic information that today's "homesteaders" all too often need and don't know where to find.

I'm pleased, then, that the publisher of the book, Charles Scribner's Sons, has granted me permission to reprint excerpts from this out-of-print manual. I think that many of my readers will find the following information both interesting and informative.—MOTHER EARTH NEWS. The Pigeon Cote Presents the King: One of the American Breeds The King one of the American breeds The Breeds of the United States If you have been around these pages awhile you may well come away with the assumption that all of the breeds today are steeped in exotic and rich European or Middle Eastern ancestry. It was commonly believed, before Charles Darwin, that many if not all of these numerous classical breeds were indeed different species as are Robins and Crows. Darwin demonstrated to the contrary that all of the domesticated breeds of what we now term pigeons are all actually derived from one single source, the Rock Dove. It was the persistent, skilled and lucky breeders of the centuries past that brought us the incredible number of wonderful old breeds. Over 800 of these old breeds are still providing amusement and affection throughout the whole world.

But just as in the centuries before us, serendipity coupled with persistent and skillful breeding continues to provide us new, beautiful birds. Even if few of these new breeds have been created in the United States where the progenitor of all of the breeds, the Rock Dove, was unknown. The earliest and the most recent American creations were both white-colored breeds. The White Kings were crafted just over 100 hundred years ago, and the newest masterpiece of the breeder's skill, the Seraphim, nicknamed the white angel, was created in this decade. These are not the only two breeds originating in the States. There have been several others, including some that have already disappeared from the pigeon fanciers' world. The King Necessity, the mother of invention, firmly planted the seed for the first American creation - the White King in 1890. Harry Baker, the recipient of that seed, created the first Kings much more through tenacious, planned, and skillful breeding than serendipity. Although, readers, lady luck always plays her role, pun intended, in genetic couplings. What Harry needed was a bird that was both beautiful and productive.

Productive at this time meant a pigeon that could pay its own way, so to speak. Squab production during those days played a much larger role in pigeon breeding than it does today. Baby pigeons about four weeks old, squabs, were bred and sold for the specialty meat trades much as Cornish Game Hens are today. Pigeon magazines of the time focused on squab production, rather than on the beauty and elegance of the breeds. Squab prices in the various markets were published , and for a short time it was even possible to buy canned squab So, one side of Harry needed a squabber, and the other, elegance and grace. From 1890 to 1892, he very deliberately chose a few of the available breeds for his palette. The exact composition of that palette has been lost to antiquity, but all sources agree that the Homer was one, selected for vitality and fertility, the Maltese for its compact chicken-type form, the Roman or Runt as it is often called for size, and the Duchess for that all important element, elegance. Harry choose only pure white specimens for his creation.

This decision was made in part to satisfy the squab's marketability, and also for show considerations. The squab market demanded only white-skinned animals, and since many colored pigeons have darker colored skin, the colored pigeons were dropped from the palette. Also, setting a particular color pattern can take many generations, and Harry, it seems, was in a hurry. While he may have had strong desires to create a show bird, a par-excellence squab producer was clearly the primary target, and he did not miss. By 1892, just two short years later, Harry was so pleased with his results that he called them the King of Pigeons. From that name, I believe Harry could have found a career in advertising. They were prolific, white-skinned, cobby in form, and around one pound in weight dressed at four weeks of age. While they were certainly not up to the standards we find today, they were the perfect squabbing breed for the day. Life sometimes has a way of forcing us to retreat from our loves and Harry had to let go of his White Kings. In 1895, Harry disposed of his flock to local area fanciers, William McMahon and Harry Troth.

But it was not McMahon or Troth that really projected the Kings onto the world stage. That was done by the Giroux brothers. They understood the worth of this new breed and invested heavily. Within but a few years, they had the largest squab producing plant in the United States. The White King Squab Company produced thousands of young per year. Unfortunately, Harry Baker was never to breed his pigeons again. He was killed at a railroad crossing just a few years later, before his creation became nationally, and now internationally, known. They advertised effectively to market their product, and thereby the White King gained national prominence, and the breed's popularity grew accordingly. In 1915, the American White King Association was established, and now the show side of the breed was off and running. On the other side of the world, well, California, another squab breeder threw his skills into the creation of Kings. It was just after the turn of the century that a man, coincidentally named King, started his project to develop Kings, but of a silver rather than white color. C. Ray King used basically the same stock as Harry Baker, consisting equally of Homers, Maltese , Mondaines, and Runts .

The Duchess was missing from his stock, and this is probably the germ that led to more blocky examples being developed on the West Coast than on the East. By 1921, the Silver King had become common on the West Coast of the States, and at the fifth annual show in Oakland, California, the White King Association accepted the new color class and changed its name to the American King Club to accommodate the new addition. In just eleven more short years, because of dedicated breeders whose names I do not know, four more color classes, the Blue , Dun, Red and Yellow Kings were brought into existence. The King today remains one of the most popular show birds in the States and abroad. It is found in even more colors and patterns than those currently noted in the National Pigeon Association standard , including the popular Andalusian . And undoubtedly, out there somewhere, a few dedicated, enterprising breeders will borrow a gene from another breed and develop even more colors and patterns for the King to wear. Long live the King. Squab Producers of California: Contact Us Store & Cart "Squab", or young pigeon, has been bred for food for centuries dating back to early Asian and Arabic cultures.

The chronicles of history place Squab high on the list of delicacies enjoyed by ancient Emperors, Kings, Pharoahs, and Medieval Royalty. King-Cal carries on these culinary traditions long ago established throughout Europe, the Far East, the Middle East and virtually every corner of the world. Often said to be the "meat of Kings", Squab today retains its rightful position on the menus of finer dining establishments everywhere. Squabs are being enjoyed by an ever increasing number of discerning people who appreciate excellence in dining, whether at home or away. King Cal Squabs are characterized by broad, full breasts. Careful breeding, and a specially formulated diet of natural high proteins and whole grains produces meatier birds. Parent birds, or "breeders" mate for life and share the responsibilities of raising their young. True Squabs have never flown. Dressed for market 4 weeks after hatching, the meat of a Squab is distinctly unlike domestic poultry or wild game birds. Dark, moist and flavorful, each bird is prepared for market before it is old enough to fly.

Squabs possess a characteristic which allows them to retain more moisture during the cooking process than other poultry - the result being a very versatile and easy bird to prepare for large or small groups of people. Squab is known to be one of the most easily digestible of all meats. Squab: Frequently Asked Questions Updated February 15, 2016. What is squab? Squab is a general culinary term for young domesticated pigeon. Prior to current practice of raising one type of pigeon for meat consumption, doves, mourning doves and the now-extinct passenger pigeon had also been included as squab. Squab has been raised as livestock for hundreds of years, possibly originating in the Middle East, but there are historical records citing squab-raising in Ancient Egypt, Rome and extensively throughout the Medieval period in Europe. Squab has long been considered a delicacy (it was served on the Titanic ), but because pigeons are easy to raise and breed, it is also eaten in lower-income areas. Despite the popularity of squab and pigeon in many cultures, it is often considered unsanitary, due to the misconception that squab is the meat of feral pigeons. How are squab raised?

Squab have been raised in the U.S. and Canada since 1900. Formerly, pigeons were raised in dovecotes, which allowed the pigeons free access. continue reading below our video How to Make Curried Pumpkin Soup Pigeons differ from other poultry in that males and females bond exclusively (once mated, they breed a number of years), and both parents brood (thus eliminating the need for incubators) and feed the squab chicks, which promotes fast growth. Utility pigeons that are raised industrially for meat production are confined to smaller dovecotes, thus forcing the parents to continually brood the nests and increasing squab growth rate so the squab are ready for slaughter in 30 days from hatching. (A utility squab weighs 1-1/3 pounds after one month, while a traditionally raised squab weighs 1/2 pound, a substantial difference.) Increased production of squab is achieved through "double-nesting," which allows the female pigeon to lay eggs in one nest, and when the chicks hatch and are about 2-weeks-old, she moves to a second nest while the male broods the chicks. This procedure yields twice as many squab.

What does squab taste like? Squab is a tender and moist dark meat. It has a slight game flavor, similar to duck. In commercially raised squab, there is more breast meat than leg meat; however, traditionally raised squab have a more equal proportion. Although there is a layer of fat on squab, the meat itself is not fatty or greasy as duck or goose. How is squab cooked? Squab is very popular in many world cuisines. In Asia, squab is prepared similar to Peking duck with crisped skin and moist flesh. In France, squab is often prepared roasted or as confit , and older birds are braised in casseroles . In Indonesian cuisine, squab is deep fried and spiced with chilis, and in Egypt it is grilled or stuffed with rice and/or herbs and roasted. Squab differs from other game birds in that it can be cooked rare (in France, "bloody to the bone"), medium rare (rosy pink), medium and well-done. Where can I buy squab? Squab can be purchased online at a number of specialty meat sites, for example, D'Artagnan or Marx Foods .

Because pigeon/squab husbandry is sustainable, you may also be able to source squab from local farms, which is a better cost option than sourcing from online purveyors. King-Pigeons Gamebirds Waterfowl King Pigeons White Homers Exotic Mammals Aviary Gamebird Hunting & Propagation Services Trapping King Pigeons The Utility King Pigeon has been established for decades as a prolific squab producer worldwide. The white Utility King is the choice of gourmet chefs and connoisseurs abroad .................................................................. Squab meat is highly demanded, therefore commercial squab producers are in high demand. Our goal is to strengthen the industry in our country.......................................................................................We are soliciting potential producer/breeders to join in our efforts to organize CENTRAL STATES SQUAB PRODUCERS...................This organization is being formed in a 14 state demographic region to become a major commercial producer of dressed and packaged squab for national and global distribution. As a member, you will be afforded any and all information you need to initialize your business. There are beneficial agricultural incentives that you may also consider. If you are seeking alternative income with limited capital to invest, you may consider contacting us for further information.

Since this is not a "GET RICH QUICK" promotion. Please do not inquire if you are seeking that type of schematic. This is not a fad either. Squab production has been ongoing since the 1920s. .......................................................................................................................................................... Raising pigeons is not rocket science and can be fun and rewarding.......................................................................................................................................................... We ask everyone to acknowledge that there will be a limited number of producers permitted to join CENTRAL STATES SQUAB PRODUCERS ..............................................CONTACT US TODAY ! 940-232-7559 .....or email ecj@brazosnet.com.................... 1 backyardchickens.com Commercial squab production has been performed in the United States for over 90 years. Squab meat is marketed worldwide. Squab meat has been enjoyed by Kings, Queens, Presidents and other dignitaries. Utility King Pigeons are the most prolific squabbing pigeon species available for home consumption and commercial operations. Squab is considered a delicacy and is a moist form of poultry and is high in protein. Squab can be enjoyed as a main coarse or as a specialty side dish. Squab is usually a bit more expensive than other poultry.

Other species of pigeons such as the Carneau, Runt, Texan Pioneer, and Modena have been used for squabbing. Those breeds have proven to be far less applicable for consistency and reliability as a squabbing pigeon. However, the King Pigeon was developed using some of the other breeds we mentioned. The Utility King Pigeon is a great breeder and brooder for squab production. Most breeding pairs are expected to produce 12-16 pair of squabs per year. The King Pigeon is widely known to be a white or silver species but is now available in other color variants. Please review the links below as you consider production of this breed of squabbing pigeon. The White variety is most sought by gourmet chefs and connoisseurs abroad. With the ever changing world demographic there is an increasing demand for squab meat. The pictures shown above are illustrations of two variants of the King Pigeon. The picture above to the left is the Utility King Pigeon. The beautiful picture above on the right By: Gary Romig 2011 is the Show king. When raising King Pigeons for squab consumption, you should concentrate your efforts on the Utility King Pigeon.

We are now soliciting potential squab producers to join Central States Squab Producers. The goal of this organization is to organize a network of producer/breeders for commercial production of squab. We intend to develop dressed and packaged squab that is readily available and economical to enjoy by everyone. Although squab meat is considered a specialty item, we believe that it should be consumed regularly because of its health benefits. For orders call today. Raising Pigeons - eXtension Raising Pigeons Small and Backyard Flocks May 05, 2015 Written by: Dr. Jacquie Jacob, University of Kentucky There are well over 500 species of wild pigeons and doves and more than 175 breeds of domestic pigeons. Pigeon breeders have developed pigeons with a wide variety of different characteristics. Some have been selected for meat production, some for athletic endeavors, and others for their plumage. Breed Selection The breed of pigeon you select will depend on what the pigeons are being raised for. Whatever your interest—exhibition or performance—there is an appropriate breed of pigeon.

Meat Production (Utility) Common pigeon breeds raised for meat production include white king, red Carneau, French Mondain, and giant homers. Young pigeons bred for meat are called squab.Usually, squab have yet to fly and consume only "pigeon milk," which is formed in the crop of the parents during brooding. Squab are harvested just prior to leaving the nest, typically around 26 to 30 days of age. Each squab weighs about 17.6 oz. (500 g). Ten pairs of pigeons can produce eight squab each month. The level of production can be increased by providing a second nest for each pair. After eggs have hatched, the female pigeon will lay two more eggs in the second nest and incubate them while the male tends to the needs of the two squabs in the first nest. Exhibition Pigeons There are several breeds of pigeons, which come in many sizes, shapes, and colors, that can be used for showing. A book of pigeon standards should be consulted for the specific characteristic of each breed. Some breeds were originally bred as utility pigeons but transitioned to show pigeons over the years.

In general, the show-type pigeon is larger, blockier, and heavier than the utility breed from which it was first selected. Breeding to these new standards, however, has resulted in the loss of certain original characteristics, such as the careful feeding of young and rapid reproduction. Ornamental breeds have unusual body conformation or striking plumage. Fantails, for example, have notably broad tails. They are not strong flyers and cannot see the approach of predators from behind or ahead, so they should be confined to the loft and fly pen. Similarly, Jacobins have a ruffle of feathers down the side of the neck and a hood of feathers on the top of the head. These feathers obscure the bird's vision in all directions except forward. Figure 1. Exhibition pigeon. Source: John Anderson, The Ohio State University Sporting Pigeons Homing pigeons have been trained to return to their own lofts or cages when released. This talent can be used in a variety of activities, including carrying messages or racing. Pigeons were used to carry messages even in ancient Greece. During the time of the first Olympic games, pigeons carried news to townspeople waiting to hear how their favorite athletes had done.

Messenger pigeons were used in World Wars I and II to carry messages between fighters in the field and command posts. Many soldiers owed their lives to messages carried by pigeons. The most famous pigeon is Cher Ami who, in World War I, flew 25 miles in 25 minutes to bring word of the "Last Battalion." He did this with his leg shattered by shrapnel and a hole in his breast. GI Joe, another messenger pigeon, saved the lives of Allied soldiers in 1943. The message he carried prevented the shelling of ground that had been captured ahead of schedule. He landed with the message just as the bomber planes were set to take off. More recently, pigeons have been used in commercial endeavors. For example, a rafting company found they could sell more photos of rafters in action if the photos were waiting for the rafters when they reached their final destination. The photographer would stand by the side of the river to take photos, and pigeons carried the film ahead of the rafters so that photos were ready when the rafters finished their ride. Homing pigeons have also been used in a variety of different ceremonies, white pigeons (doves) in particular.

Weddings and funeral are common places to release white pigeons. Disney maintains a flock of white pigeons for release at different events. Pigeon races took place in Belgium as early as the 1700s. Belgian immigrants brought this sport, and the pigeons, with them to the United States. Racing pigeons are tight-feathered and very rugged. Young racing pigeons typically participate in races of up to 300 miles, while older pigeons can be raced over 500 to 1000 miles. Racing pigeons have to be trained to fly home to their own loft. Only young pigeons raised in a particular loft can be used for racing. Older pigeons purchased from other breeders might attempt to fly to their original loft if released. Roller pigeons are used as performance birds because they spin backward in somersaults while falling through the air. The faster the somersaults, the better the performance. Fanciers have different preferences for the quality of a good roller. Some prefer rollers that roll with higher frequency; others consider how deep the birds fall when spinning their somersaults.

Rollers are usually flown in kits, groups of about 20 birds.The greater the number of pigeons performing together, the more valuable the kit. Several national conventions for roller fanciers are held throughout the United States each year. Tumbling pigeons are similar to rollers, but they do their rolls on the ground since they can't fly. The record for the longest roll is over 100 ft. These pigeons have to be raised as ground birds since they cannot fly up to perches or nest boxes. There are other athletic competitions for pigeon fanciers. Diving pigeons fly to a high altitude and then dive back to the loft on command. Flocking involves sending the flock for exercise and having them fly into another fancier's flock to bring back a few foreign pigeons to the loft. Thieving involves using a male pigeon to entice females of a different fancier back to the loft. Figure 2. Racing pigeon. Source: John Anderson, The Ohio State University Figure 3. Tumbler pigeon. Source: John Anderson, The Ohio State University Housing The breed you select and the location where you live dictate the type of loft best suited for your flock.

Before starting a flock, check town, city, county, and/or state regulations regarding pigeon production in your area. Regulations might restrict the type of loft facility you can use or where it can be located on your property. You can use an existing building (old barn, greenhouse, child's playhouse, and so on) or construct a new one. It is commonly recommended that you have 27 cu. ft. of space for every pair of pigeons. It is important to remember that during the breeding season, the number of pigeons in the flock will increase by two for each nest. If you are not harvesting the young as squab, it is common to maintain a separate loft for keeping the offspring that have left the nest. It is acceptable to leave offspring in the same loft as their parents, as long as there is sufficient room for the increased number of pigeons. Your loft must meet three basic criteria: It should provide security, shelter, and comfort for your birds. It should be comfortable for you as you take care of your birds. It should have ample room for both the adult birds and their offspring. Your pigeons must be sheltered from the elements, especially young birds.

The pigeon loft can be very simple, but it must have a roof. The loft must be kept dry—pigeons can tolerate extremes in temperature, but they must be kept dry. Pigeons kept in a damp facility are at risk of developing diseases. The loft must also provide the pigeons with protection from predators such as cats, dogs, and rats. It is common to provide pigeons with their own "cubicals" within a loft. These compartments are sometimes referred to as perches, but they are different than the perches used with chickens. A simple design uses a board 1 inch deep by 12 inches wide board divided into compartments 10 inches high by 12 inches wide. Placing a board 1 in. x 4 in. board across the bottom front will keep nest materials, eggs and squabs from falling out of the nest. There are several different types of feeders and waterers available. It is important, however, that you protect these items from bird droppings. Give birds access to bath pans once or twice a week for about two hours each time. The baths should be shallow (water depth of 2 to 3 in.) and large enough to accommodate several birds.

If the bathing space is too small, the pigeons may pile up on top of each other and those on the bottom could suffocate or drown. It is important to remove the bath after a short period of time so the birds do not drink dirty water and become sick. Nutrition You must provide your pigeons with feed, water, and grit. All are essential, and a shortage of one can adversely effect the health of the flock. As with wild pigeons, domestic pigeons feed on grains and seeds. They seldom eat worms, grubs, or insects. When purchasing grain for your flock, it is important that it not be new grain (grain right out of the field) or spoiled in any way. Recently harvested grain (less than three months old) is not handled well by pigeons. If the birds are fed a great deal of new grain, the pigeons will soon exhibit ruffled feathers; some birds will vomit, and others will have diarrhea. Young squab may die within a few days if their parents are fed new grain. It is best to use old grain that has a low moisture content. Old grains are dry and hard, which pigeons prefer. Seasoned grain is not usable, however, if it has spoiled.

Proper storage of grain is essential. To detect spoilage in the grains, rub a small handful between your palms and then smell the grains. If they smell moldy or musty, do not use them as feed. Pigeons thrive most when fed a variety of different grains. Although pigeons can survive on only one or two grains, they will do better with a combination of four or more grains. Possible grains include corn, wheat, sorghum, oats, barley, rye, or rice. Buckwheat, legume seeds, peas, soybeans, vetch, and peanuts can also be used. Feed only as much grain as the pigeons will finish in a single feeding. It is important that no grain be left on the floor of the loft where it can become moldy. The grit fed to pigeons is different from that fed to chickens. In addition to providing material to aid in digestion in the gizzard, pigeon grit also provides the salts and minerals that pigeons cannot get when in confinement and fed a mixture of grains. Pigeon grit should include salt, iodine, trace minerals, sulfur, iron, bonemeal (for calcium), and charcoal, along with oyster shell and granite.

The mixture must contain the right proportions of the different substances. While no animal can remain healthy without salt, too much will poison a pigeon. The sulfur helps prevent pigeon pox. Charcoal "sweetens the crop" and offsets the effects of any moldy grain the pigeon might pick up. Pigeons do not require a lot of grit;a pair of pigeons will eat 6 lb. per year. For More Information "Show, Sport, or Squab — Choosing the Pigeon Breed for You" by Armani Tavares We’ll start with the Flying Breeds: Homer: The most popular breed of pigeon falls into this group: the Homing pigeon, AKA Homers. These are very special birds. Many have been recognized as “heroes,” pulling off great feats while serving for our country in the military. There was one such bird who successfully delivered an important message saving many lives despite it being shot and severely wounded by the enemy. Dutch Beauty Homer by Jim Gifford As implied, they will return home when released from elsewhere, and, depending on the blood line, may return from over 1,000 miles away!

The Homers vary a little in form, but usually look like your typical wild pigeon, although often a little larger, tighter feathered, and more muscular, like a true athlete. The birds used for “white dove releases” in weddings, funerals, and other events, are usually white Homers. However, some inexperienced people actually use white doves, which don’t have as developed a homing instinct as the Homers. These doves usually face a bleak future trying to survive after the release and should not be used. The homing instinct in pigeons has been researched extensively by scientists, and it’s still not completely understood. Some say they use the earth’s magnetic fields, moon, and sound or smell….. or all of these things. How ever they do it, all pigeons have a homing instinct, but due to that trait not being selected for breeding, some breeds can’t find their way home if they fly too far off and lose sight of their loft and familiar surroundings. The Homers we have now-a-days have been stringently selectively bred in years past, and still continue to be, to retain and develop this unique and powerful homing instinct that allows them to “home” from so far away.

Racing competitions flown by Homers There are different types of races, distinguished by the distance being spanned, and whether the birds being flown are “young birds” (birds that were bred that same year) or “old birds” (birds bred at any other time than the year in which the race is being held). You may also fly only one bird or a hundred-plus. Flyers usually ship, or drop off, their birds at a club location (check with your specific local club). From there, the birds are all loaded into a modified truck with individual holding compartments. The birds ride to the area of release and are then all let out together and they “race” back home. When the bird(s) make it home, the handler takes off a special band, which was previously put on before the release, and inserts it into a clock that records the time. These times are reported to the Club, and although there’s a little more complicated scoring system, basically, the bird with the fastest time wins. Pigeon racers are a very dedicated set of fanciers, and most take their sport very seriously. Homers are one of the hardiest and most prolific breeds.

But they do have one downfall, that they will return to their original owner’s place after you bring them home and let them out to fly. After all, they are homers! As I will explain in more detail below, this may be remedied by only buying very young birds, un-flown, that have just recently come out of the nest, or keeping adult pairs as “prisoners,” breeding them, and then only flying their young. Either way, if you are interested in attaining/racing Homing pigeons, I would suggest you join one of the many clubs around the country. The American Racing Pigeon Union is a great place to start and they would love to give you any help they can. Highflyers Another flying breed that I have seen growing in popularity are the Highflyers. These birds are bred for high and long endurance flights. They are truly amazing, flying simply for the love of it. On they go, go, and go, for hours. Round and round, right above the loft; thus you have the option of competing with hundreds of other fanciers, the world over, right from the comfort of your own home and without dealing with any form of transportation for the birds.

Highflyers are a family/group of breeds. Some specific breeds in this group are Tipplers, Serbian Highflyers, Danzig Highflyers, and Iranian Highflyers. Most get their names from the country of origin, and most Highflyers are from the Middle East, as many pigeon breeds are. Some have crests on their heads and others may be muffed (feather-footed). As with most breeds, these are hardy and will breed without problem. The Flying Tippler Society is a good club to consider joining if you want to compete with Highflyers, the site also has some very good info. Iranian Highflyer by Jim Gifford The competition should be very easy and inexpensive to join. There are a few competitions held throughout the year. After conditioning your flyers, you just need to be assigned a judge by your local club to take record of your bird’s flight. Among other things, the most important factor in judging is the time that the birds stay up and flying. Performing Breeds Many of the breeds in this group are flying pigeons, but with a special surprise. They do rolls, twists, and dives in flight. It’s very entertaining!

As the homing instinct, the rolling trait has also been studied, though not as extensively. It’s argued that the action is involuntary, maybe that’s the case in some breeds, but I favor the side that says it is an intentional and even learned act. I witnessed my Rollers first learning to roll, and then improving and expanding their skills as they gained experience. Who knows! The different breeds are bred for different flight styles, for example: Birmingham Rollers: These are probably the most popular breed of roller pigeons. They are a smaller, plain breed. They should fly in tight kits (a group of pigeons that fly together and in unison) and roll simultaneously. The tighter and more unified they roll, the better they will be judged. They should look like a big ball of feathers falling from the sky! They are among the easiest rollers to keep and train and are a good choice for beginners with no special considerations to note. Flying Oriental Rollers (FOR): FORs are a little larger-sized roller breed, with an interesting set of large, low-held wings and more tail feathers than other pigeons, from 14-20 vs the typical 12 of most other pigeons.

They also lack an oil gland, this, however, does not negatively affect them. Interestingly, the first FORs were imported in 1927 to the Brooklyn Zoo and from there they spread all over the country. Oriental Roller by Jim Gifford FORs do not tend to fly in as united a kit as do the Birminghams and some others, but they have a greater array of acrobatic maneuvers, including dives, twists, loops and rolls. They also usually fly at a higher elevation. FORs are also known to be great at evading most hawks and other birds of prey, something that can often prove to be a serious problem with flyers. Many people have had to stop flying birds altogether because of problems with raptors. They are a little harder to get up and rolling then the Birminghams, but are certainly worth the effort. Unfortunately, they are also rarer. There are many breeds with “Tumbler” in their names, but most no longer retain the ability to roll or tumble! Except for just a few, most are now strictly show breeds. Flying tumblers still seem very obscure to me as my experience and study there is limited.

Coop Tumblers: These are nice little birds, and some still perform. They remain more of a group rather than a specific breed, showing a variety of ornamented and plain breeds. There are some pure, rare ones that will still perform, such as the Syrian Coop Tumbler. Be aware, however, that some “Coop Tumblers” are often just a fancy show breed crossed with a rolling breed and the resulting offspring that still retain some ability to tumble are sold as “Coop Tumblers.” I suppose they’d still make fun and entertaining pets! (But let’s do support pure breeds and proper breeding) The last rolling-type breed I will list here is the Parlor Roller. These birds are unique in that, once mature, they completely lack the ability of flight. But they make up for it by rolling on the ground in a series of flips! These are also very easy to raise and train and would make a good sport for the beginner. The competitions are based on birds that roll the farthest. These are also small and plain, bred primarily for performance rather than show.

Question: A squab is the young of which breed of bird?
Answer: Pigeon