Mahonia japonica | CAROLYN'S SHADE GARDENS CAROLYN'S SHADE GARDENS THE JOY OF GARDENING IN THE SHADOWS Archive for Mahonia japonica Posted in bulbs for shade , Camellias , hellebores , my garden , snowdrops , winter , winter interest with tags 'Blue Lady' hellebore , 'Fly Fishing' snowdrop , 'Rijnveld's Early Sensation' daffodil , Abeliophyllum distichum , Camellia 'Winter's Joy' , Carolyn's Shade Gardens , Edgeworthia chrysantha , Galanthus 'Fly Fishing' , Galanthus 'Standing Tall' , Galanthus 'Xmas' , Helleborus Joker , Helleborus Winter's Joy , Japanese mahonia , Jasminum nudiflorum , Mahonia japonica , Redstart pulmonaria , snowdrop Standing Tall , snowdrop Xmas , white forsythia , winter jasmine on December 29, 2015 by Carolyn @ Carolyns Shade Gardens Even though praecox means developing early, ‘Praecox’ Christmas rose hellebore is one of the main season

 varieties that bloom later in January or February.

Here it is in mid-December. Like much of the country, southeastern Pennsylvania, US, zone 6 to 7, has had unseasonably warm weather for weeks. There has been no snow, the ground has not frozen, we have only had 2 or 3 real frosts, not enough to set back the acanthus, and it was 70 degrees F on Christmas Day. It has also been raining for most of two weeks. Quite a change from the last two falls when it got cold in October and stayed that way. In 2013 to 2014, we experienced record snowfalls. In 2014 to 2015, there was not much snow but record low temperatures. Nursery News: The 2016 Snowdrop Catalogue is posted on our website, and we are taking orders now. To access the catalogue, click here . For announcements of additional spring 2016 events, please sign up for our customer email list by sending your full name and phone number to carolynsshadegardens@verizon.net.

Let us know if you are local or mail order only and if you are particularly interested in snowdrops or miniature hostas so we can put you on the right email list. . ‘Winter’s Joy’ fall-blooming camellia is not blooming early but instead continuing to bloom beyond when its flowers and buds would usually be frozen and done. It started in October and is about to enter its fourth month. . Should we be worried? As Mark Rylance, playing a Soviet espionage agent accused of treason, says in “Bridge of Spies”, would it help? Lots of attention needs to be paid to the very serious issue of climate change and what the US in particular can or should do in the face of the incontrovertible evidence of evolutionary temperature changes occurring at faster than evolutionary speeds. But worrying about the plants in our gardens and neighborhoods won’t accomplish much. We can’t control the weather so just relax and enjoy the early flowers. My friend John Lonsdale who is originally from England tells me that if we lived there, this would all be completely normal—the weather and the bloom times. Here is what is early in my garden: . Winter jasmine usually sends out a few flowers through out the winter whenever it gets warm.

The whole shrub is in bloom now with not many buds left for later. . The giant snowdrop ‘Xmas’ does open flowers by Christmas, but right now the whole patch is in bloom and starting to go by. Last year I had flowers through March. . The giant snowdrop ‘Standing Tall’ also opens its buds around Christmas. It was so early this year that its flowers are now completely done. .

Japanese mahonia | CAROLYN'S SHADE GARDENS CAROLYN'S SHADE GARDENS THE JOY OF GARDENING IN THE SHADOWS Archive for Japanese mahonia Posted in bulbs for shade , Camellias , hellebores , my garden , snowdrops , winter , winter interest with tags 'Blue Lady' hellebore , 'Fly Fishing' snowdrop , 'Rijnveld's Early Sensation' daffodil , Abeliophyllum distichum , Camellia 'Winter's Joy' , Carolyn's Shade Gardens , Edgeworthia chrysantha , Galanthus 'Fly Fishing' , Galanthus 'Standing Tall' , Galanthus 'Xmas' , Helleborus Joker , Helleborus Winter's Joy , Japanese mahonia , Jasminum nudiflorum , Mahonia japonica , Redstart pulmonaria , snowdrop Standing Tall , snowdrop Xmas , white forsythia , winter jasmine on December 29, 2015 by Carolyn @ Carolyns Shade Gardens Even though praecox means developing early, ‘Praecox’ Christmas rose hellebore is one of the main season varieties that

 bloom later in January or February.

Here it is in mid-December. Like much of the country, southeastern Pennsylvania, US, zone 6 to 7, has had unseasonably warm weather for weeks. There has been no snow, the ground has not frozen, we have only had 2 or 3 real frosts, not enough to set back the acanthus, and it was 70 degrees F on Christmas Day. It has also been raining for most of two weeks. Quite a change from the last two falls when it got cold in October and stayed that way. In 2013 to 2014, we experienced record snowfalls. In 2014 to 2015, there was not much snow but record low temperatures. Nursery News: The 2016 Snowdrop Catalogue is posted on our website, and we are taking orders now. To access the catalogue, click here . For announcements of additional spring 2016 events, please sign up for our customer email list by sending your full name and phone number to carolynsshadegardens@verizon.net.

Let us know if you are local or mail order only and if you are particularly interested in snowdrops or miniature hostas so we can put you on the right email list. . ‘Winter’s Joy’ fall-blooming camellia is not blooming early but instead continuing to bloom beyond when its flowers and buds would usually be frozen and done. It started in October and is about to enter its fourth month. . Should we be worried? As Mark Rylance, playing a Soviet espionage agent accused of treason, says in “Bridge of Spies”, would it help? Lots of attention needs to be paid to the very serious issue of climate change and what the US in particular can or should do in the face of the incontrovertible evidence of evolutionary temperature changes occurring at faster than evolutionary speeds. But worrying about the plants in our gardens and neighborhoods won’t accomplish much. We can’t control the weather so just relax and enjoy the early flowers. My friend John Lonsdale who is originally from England tells me that if we lived there, this would all be completely normal—the weather and the bloom times. Here is what is early in my garden: . Winter jasmine usually sends out a few flowers through out the winter whenever it gets warm.

The whole shrub is in bloom now with not many buds left for later. . The giant snowdrop ‘Xmas’ does open flowers by Christmas, but right now the whole patch is in bloom and starting to go by. Last year I had flowers through March. . The giant snowdrop ‘Standing Tall’ also opens its buds around Christmas. It was so early this year that its flowers are now completely done. . Mahonia japonica ( Bealei Mahonia ) | Backyard Gardener - Gardening Information Garden Interest Mahonia japonica ( Bealei Mahonia ) M. japonica is a widespreading shrub with large 18 inches long leaves and up to 19 lance shaped leaflets. In December, scented, pale yellow flowers open in clusters and will last until May followed by blue-purple berries. The cultivar, ‘Bealei’, syn. M bealei, has blue-green leaves and less fragrant, later blooming flowers bloom in shorter racemes. Google Plant Images: click here! Where can you buy this plant: click here! Characteristics Size: Height: 6 ft. to 6 ft. Width: 10 ft. to 10 ft.

Plant Category: shrubs, Plant Characteristics: decorative berries or fruit, low maintenance, round, Foliage Characteristics: evergreen, Tolerances: deer, heat & humidity, pollution, rabbits, seashore, slope, Requirements Bloomtime Range: Early Spring to Late Spring USDA Hardiness Zone: 7 to 8 AHS Heat Zone: Not defined for this plant Light Range: Part Shade to Sun pH Range: 7.5 to 8.5 Soil Range: Loam to Clay Loam Water Range: Normal to Moist Plant Care Fertilizing How-to : Fertilization for Established Plants Established plants can benefit from fertilization. Take a visual inventory of your landscape. Trees need to be fertilized every few years. Shrubs and other plants in the landscape can be fertilized yearly. A soil test can determine existing nutrient levels in the soil. If one or more nutrients is low, a specific instead of an all-purpose fertilizer may be required. Fertilizers that are high in N, nitrogen, will promote green leafy growth. Excess nitrogen in the soil can cause excessive vegetative growth on plants at the expense of flower bud development. It is best to avoid fertilizing late in the growing season.

Applications made at that time can force lush, vegetative growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the onset of cold weather. Light Conditions : Partial Sun, Partial Shade Part sun or part shade plants prefer light that is filtered. Sunlight, though not direct, is important to them. Often morning sun, because it is not as strong as afternoon sun, can be considered part sun or part shade. If you live in an area that does not get much intense sun, such as the Pacific Northwest, a full sun exposure may be fine. In other areas such as Florida, plant in a location where afternoon shade will be received. Conditions : Types of Pruning Types of pruning include: pinching, thinning, shearing and rejuvenating. Pinching is removing the stem tips of a young plant to promote branching. Doing this avoids the need for more severe pruning later on. Thinning involves removing whole branches back to the trunk. This may be done to open up the interior of a plant to let more light in and to increase air circulation that can cut down on plant disease. The best way to begin thinning is to begin by removing dead or diseased wood. Shearing is leveling the surface of a shrub using hand or electric shears.

This is done to maintain the desired shape of a hedge or topiary. Rejuvenating is removal of old branches or the overall reduction of the size of a shrub to restore its original form and size. It is recommended that you do not remove more than one third of a plant at a time. Remember to remove branches from the inside of the plant as well as the outside. When rejuvenating plants with canes, such as nandina, cut back canes at various heights so that plant will have a more natural look. Watering Conditions : Moist and Well Drained Moist and well drained means exactly what it sounds like. Soil is moist without being soggy because the texture of the soil allows excess moisture to drain away. Most plants like about 1 inch of water per week. Amending your soil with compost will help improve texture and water holding or draining capacity. A 3 inch layer of mulch will help to maintain soil moisture and studies have shown that mulched plants grow faster than non-mulched plants. Conditions : Outdoor Watering Plants are almost completely made up of water so it is important to supply them with adequate water to maintain good plant health. Not enough water and roots will wither and the plant will wilt and die.

Too much water applied too frequently deprives roots of oxygen leading to plant diseases such as root and stem rots. The type of plant, plant age, light level, soil type and container size all will impact when a plant needs to be watered. Follow these tips to ensure successful watering: * The key to watering is water deeply and less frequently. When watering, water well, i.e. provide enough water to thoroughly saturate the root ball. With in-ground plants, this means thoroughly soaking the soil until water has penetrated to a depth of 6 to 7 inches (1' being better). With container grown plants, apply enough water to allow water to flow through the drainage holes. * Try to water plants early in the day or later in the afternoon to conserve water and cut down on plant stress. Do water early enough so that water has had a chance to dry from plant leaves prior to night fall. This is paramount if you have had fungus problems. * Don't wait to water until plants wilt. Although some plants will recover from this, all plants will die if they wilt too much (when they reach the permanent wilting point). * Consider water conservation methods such as drip irrigation, mulching, and xeriscaping.

Drip systems which slowly drip moisture directly on the root system can be purchased at your local home and garden center. Mulches can significantly cool the root zone and conserve moisture. * Consider adding water-saving gels to the root zone which will hold a reserve of water for the plant. These can make a world of difference especially under stressful conditions. Be certain to follow label directions for their use. Conditions : Normal Watering for Outdoor Plants Normal watering means that soil should be kept evenly moist and watered regularly, as conditions require. Most plants like 1 inch of water a week during the growing season, but take care not to over water. The first two years after a plant is installed, regular watering is important for establishment. The first year is critical. It is better to water once a week and water deeply, than to water frequently for a few minutes. Planting How-to : Planting Shrubs Dig a hole twice the size of the root ball and deep enough to plant at the same level the shrub was in the container. If soil is poor, dig hole even wider and fill with a mixture half original soil and half compost or soil amendment. Carefully remove shrub from container and gently separate roots. Position in center of hole, best side facing forward.

Fill in with original soil or an amended mixture if needed as described above. For larger shrubs, build a water well. Finish by mulching and watering well. If the plant is balled-and-burlapped, remove fasteners and fold back the top of natural burlap, tucking it down into hole, after you've positioned shrub. Make sure that all burlap is buried so that it won't wick water away from rootball during hot, dry periods. If synthetic burlap, remove if possible. If not possible, cut away or make slits to allow for roots to develop into the new soil. For larger shrubs, build a water well. Finish by mulching and watering well. If shrub is bare-root, look for a discoloration somewhere near the base; this mark is likely where the soil line was. If soil is too sandy or too clayey, add organic matter. This will help with both drainage and water holding capacity. Fill soil, firming just enough to support shrub. Finish by mulching and watering well.

How-to : Planting Perennials Determine appropriate perennials for your garden by considering sun and shade through the day, exposure, water requirements, climate, soil makeup, seasonal color desired, and position of other garden plants and trees. The best times to plant are spring and fall, when soil is workable and out of danger of frost. Fall plantings have the advantage that roots can develop and not have to compete with developing top growth as in the spring. Spring is more desirable for perennials that dislike wet conditions or for colder areas, allowing full establishment before first winter. Planting in summer or winter is not advisable for most plants, unless planting a more established sized plant. To plant container-grown plants: Prepare planting holes with appropriate depth and space between. Water the plant thoroughly and let the excess water drain before carefully removing from the container. Carefully loosen the root ball and place the plant in the hole, working soil around the roots as you fill. If the plant is extremely root bound, separate roots with fingers. A few slits made with a pocket knife are okay, but should be kept to a minimum. Continue filling in soil and water thoroughly, protecting from direct sun until stable.

To plant bare-root plants: Plant as soon as possible after purchase. Prepare suitable planting holes, spread roots and work soil among roots as you fill in. Water well and protect from direct sun until stable. To plant seedlings: A number of perennials produce self-sown seedlings that can be transplanted. You may also start your own seedling bed for transplanting. Prepare suitable planting holes, spacing appropriately for plant development. Gently lift the seedling and as much surrounding soil as possible with your garden trowel, and replant it immediately, firming soil with fingertips and water well. Shade from direct sun and water regularly until stable. Problems Pest : Whiteflies Whiteflies are small, winged insects that look like tiny moths, which attack many types of plants. The flying adult stage prefers the underside of leaves to feed and breed. Whiteflies can multiply quickly as a female can lay up to 500 eggs in a life span of 2 months. If a plant is infested with whiteflies, you will see a cloud of fleeing insects when the plant is disturbed. Whiteflies can weaken a plant, eventually leading to plant death if they are not checked. They can transmit many harmful plant viruses.

They also produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface fungal growth called sooty mold. Possible controls: keep weeds down; use screening in windows to keep them out; remove infested plants away from non-infested plants; use a reflective mulch (aluminum foil) under plants (this repels whiteflies); trap with yellow sticky cards, apply labeled pesticides; encourage natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden; and sometimes a good steady shower of water will wash them off the plant. Fungi : Rusts Most rusts are host specific and overwinter on leaves, stems and spent flower debris. Rust often appears as small, bright orange, yellow, or brown pustules on the underside of leaves. If touched, it will leave a colored spot of spores on the finger. Caused by fungi and spread by splashing water or rain, rust is worse when weather is moist. Prevention and Control: Plant resistant varieties and provide maximum air circulation. Clean up all debris, especially around plants that have had a problem. Do not water from overhead and water only during the day so that plants will have enough time to dry before night.

Apply a fungicide labeled for rust on your plant. Fungi : Leaf Spots Leaf spots are caused by fungi or bacteria. Brown or black spots and patches may be either ragged or circular, with a water soaked or yellow-edged appearance. Insects, rain, dirty garden tools, or even people can help its spread. Prevention and Control: Remove infected leaves when the plant is dry. Leaves that collect around the base of the plant should be raked up and disposed of. Avoid overhead irrigation if possible; water should be directed at soil level. For fungal leaf spots, use a recommended fungicide according to label directions. Pest : Scale Insects Scales are insects, related to mealy bugs, that can be a problem on a wide variety of plants - indoor and outdoor. Young scales crawl until they find a good feeding site. The adult females then lose their legs and remain on a spot protected by its hard shell layer. They appear as bumps, often on the lower sides of leaves. They have piercing mouth parts that suck the sap out of plant tissue. Scales can weaken a plant leading to yellow foliage and leaf drop.

They also produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface fungal growth called sooty mold. Prevention and Control: Once established they are hard to control. Isolate infested plants away from those that are not infested. Consult your local garden center professional or Cooperative Extension office in your county for a legal recommendation regarding their control. Encourage natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden. Miscellaneous Conditions : Deer Tolerant There are no plants that are 100% deer resistant, but many that are deer tolerant. There are plants that deer prefer over others. You will find that what deer will or will not eat varies in different parts of the country. A lot of it has to do with how hungry they are. Most deer will sample everything at least once, decide if they like it or not and return if favorable. A fence is the good deer barrier. You may go for a really tall one (7 to 8 feet), or try 2 parallel fences, (4 to 5 feet apart). Use a wire mesh fence rather than board, since deer are capable of wiggling through a 12 inch space.

Conditions : Pollution Tolerant Air pollution is becoming a bigger problem each day. Pollutants in our air damage plants. The plants are damaged by absorbing sulfur dioxide, ozone, peroxyacetyl nitrate, ethylene, and nitrogen dioxide through their pores. Cell membrane damage may result in leaf drop, blotched or burnt looking leaves, or off-colored tissue between veins. Vehicles and industrial processes are the key culprits and conditions worsen on hot summer days. Though planting only pollution tolerant plants is not the solution to this problem, it is a visual band aid. Your Cooperative Extension Service may have a list of plants that are more pollution tolerant in your area. Conditions : Rabbit Tolerant As cute as they are, rabbits can really damage a vegetable garden. Young, tender lettuce plants seem to be their favorite. If a free-roaming dog is not a possibility for you, consider installing raised vegetable beds and covering tender shoots with netting. If you have ample room, you can opt to plant enough for you and the bunnies. Scents don't always repel animals, as they get used to them and are often washed off in the rain.

Conditions : Slope Tolerant Slope tolerant plants are those that have a fibrous root system and are often plants that prefer good soil drainage. These plants assist in erosion control by stabilizing/holding the soil on slopes intact. Glossary : Border Plant A border plant is one which looks especially nice when used next to other plants in a border. Borders are different from hedges in that they are not clipped. Borders are loose and billowy, often dotted with deciduous flowering shrubs. For best effect, mass smaller plants in groups of 3, 5, 7, or 9. Larger plants may stand alone, or if room permits, group several layers of plants for a dramatic impact. Borders are nice because they define property lines and can screen out bad views and offer seasonal color. Many gardeners use the border to add year round color and interest to the garden. Conditions : Erosion Control Plants that help to control erosion have fibrous root systems that help to keep soil intact. Leaves and the overall form of a plant can prevent erosion by breaking up water droplets before they hit the ground, lessening splashing and runoff.

Conditions : Fall Color Fall color is the result of trees or shrubs changing colors according to complex chemical formulas present in their leaves. Depending on how much iron, magnesium, phosphorus, or sodium is in the plant, and the acidity of the chemicals in the leaves, leaves might turn amber, gold, red, orange or just fade from green to brown. Scarlet oaks, red maples and sumacs, for instance, have a slightly acidic sap, which causes the leaves to turn bright red. The leaves of some varieties of ash, growing in areas where limestone is present, will turn a regal purplish-blue. Although many people believe that cooler temperatures are responsible for the color change, the weather has nothing to do with it at all. As the days grow shorter and the nights longer, a chemical clock inside the trees starts up, releasing a hormone which restricts the flow of sap to each leaf. As fall progresses, the sap flow slows and chlorophyll, the chemical that gives the leaves their green color in the spring and summer, disappears. The residual sap becomes more concentrated as it dries, creating the colors of fall.

Glossary : Evergreen Evergreen refers to plants that hold onto their leaves or needles for more than one growing season, shedding them over time. Some plants such as live oaks are evergreen, but commonly shed the majority of their older leaves around the end of January. Glossary : Shrub Shrub: is a deciduous or evergreen woody perennial that has multiple branches that form near its base. Glossary : Fragrant Mahonia Shrubs - Advice for pruning, care, planting, diseases and gardening Tips for looking after your Mahonia Welcome to Mahonia.co.uk, the internet biggest Mahonia site offering FREE information on this magestic plant! Mahonia in flower with bright yellow flowers Introduction to the Mahonia There are around 70 species of Mahonia which are originaly from Central America, Northen America, Asia and Himalaya but are now found all over the world and are particular popular in the Uk. Mahonia are typiacly grown for there attractive dark green foliage which are made up of long leaves consististing of around 5-20 leaflets depending in the age of the growth.

They are a evergreen shrub and from around late autumn through to winter they then produce long stalked bright yellow flowers which shoot out from the ends of leaves, on smaller plants in pots they tend to shoot from the centre of the plant, after flowering purple fruit are produced. There are a few common varieties of mahonia which are particular popular which include Mahonia ‘Japonica’ which reaches around 7ft (83″) tall by around 9ft (108″) and Mahonia x ‘Media Charity’ which again grows to around 9ft (108″). Another variety is Mahonia Aquifolium which is one of the smaller varieties and only reaches around 3ft (36″) but is ones of the hardest of the Mahonia family. Genetic Name: Mahonia Varietiey: There are many variety available including, ‘Media Charity’, ‘Japonica’ and Aquuifoloium. How easy to grow: Mahonia are easy to grow without much trouble. Site: Mahonia’s grow well in full sun, semi-shade and will also grow in shade. Hardiness: Hardy.

Soil: Mahonia will grow in most soils without any trouble including clay, sandy, dry, moist. Height: Depending on variety, some grow to 9ft (108″) and smaller dwarf varieties grow to only 3ft (36″). Flowering: Mahonia flower from November – March. Fruit: Mahonia produce a black fruit after flowering and some are used for making wine. Planting in Boarders for winter colour Mahonia’s can be planted in the back of boarders and require quite abit of space if you plant one of the larger varieites such as ‘Media Charity’. By planting perennial plants in front of your Mahonia bush when the perennials die back to the ground in Winter your Mahonia will just be starting to flower and you will be able to enjoy the yellow winter flowers produced. Larger varieties are also ideal for using as screening and also act as a intruder deterrent because of there very spikey nature and thick habbit. Pest and Diseases Mahonia Rust Mahonia are generaly pest free so aphids are not a problem but they can suffer from Rust and Powdery Mildew.

Mahonia’s effected by rust will have black spots on there leaves with yellow around the edges, it is simular to rust commonly found on garden roses and can be treated which a garden fungicide. Powdery Mildew is also easy to spot as the leaves start to get covered with a white powdery substance, this is also treatable by using a garden fungicide. Pruning a Mahonia Mahonia are best left unpruned if possible but there are instances when you may want to prune a Mahonia shrub. All pruning is best done in late summer, you can prune out any damaged or diseased branches but as disease is not really a issue with Mahonis this is proberly not needed. If you have an established Mahonia that seems bare at the bottom and has long bare branches reaching out then they can be pruned to encourage new growth. First you can prune out some of the branches totaly to let more light into the centre of the plant, this will encourage new growth in Spring. Long branches that are bare untill the wnd of the branches can be pruned so that the branch is only around 1ft (12″) long, this will encourage new leaf growth in these branches.

Finaly pruning can be done to keep the shrubs shape well rounded by trimming leaves off to form the desired shape. Like mentioned above Mahonia are best left unpruned but giving them a little pruning or even a hard pruning will not do them any harm. Planting and caring for a Mahonia Mahonia x 'Media Charity' Planting a Mahonia – Before planting soak the roots in a bucket of water for around 20 minutes, never plant the roots dry. When planting the Mahonia you can add a small about of Bone Meal or Fish Bloog and Bone. This will encourage new root growth when the Mahonia is planted and will give it a good start. Protecting Mahaonia in the Winter Mahonia are fully hardy and when left to go it alone are very unforgiving and will do fine but they will benifit from a little care to help them over the winter specialy if they have had a hard pruining. You can mulch around the base of the Mahonia plant with with a thick layer of organic matter or compost or other mulch material, this will act as a protective layer and help stop the frost getting to the roots.

Mahonia Japonica Mahonia Japonica Lionel Fortescue Mahonia japonica is the perfect mysterious plant for your garden. The dark green, holly shaped spiky leaves which are on long branches. During the autumn and winter period the leaves turn a reddish purple, followed by bright yellow flower stalks. The flowers have a delicate scent. Once the mahonia has flowered, the plant produces a blue coloured fruit, like a small blueberry. They can grow quote large in free draining soil, but are quote happy in woodland, with dappled shade or even as a hedge to keep out intruders! You will find lots of mahonia here at Eden down near the senses garden in front of the Mediterranean biome. Native to: How to grow: Mahonia - Telegraph How to Grow How to Grow How to grow: Mahonia Mary Keen on a plant that smells of lilies of the valley and can be made into jam By Mary Keen Comments MAHONIAS got their name from an Irish nurseryman, Bernard McMahon, who settled in Philadelphia in the 18th century.

His business became a centre for American gardeners, where everyone, from Thomas Jefferson downwards, met to mull over the horticultural topics of the day. McMahon wrote the first book about gardening on American soil, The American Gardener's Calendar, which was a best seller for 50 years. The nurseryman's namesake is related to the berberis family but looks much more like a glamorous holly. It is at its best in winter: the peak season for mahonias is at the nadir of the gardening year. From November until March, yellow, faintly scented flowers appear above long, evergreen, pinnate leaves. The best plants smell of lilies of the valley and their berries, unlike those of the holly, can be made into jam. The Oregon grape, Mahonia aquifolium , is a native of North America and named forms are among the choicest evergreens. The leaves of `Apollo' and `Atropurpurea' look as though they have been burnished with purple polish. If you want something even showier, go for Mahonia x wagneri `Moseri', a hybrid from aquifolium stock that has an amazing repertoire of leaf colour.

It is as though it has been programmed to play a slow-release version of autumn effects all year. `Moseri' is yellow in spring, turns coral in summer and darkens to cock's-comb red as other leaves start to fall. This is a connoisseur's plant and it is hard to find because it is not easy to propagate. The oriental mahonias were found in China in the mid-19th century. Mahonia bealei and japonica are easy to muddle - the botanists argued about their differences from the start. The one to look for is Mahonia japonica , which has the coveted Award of Garden Merit, but older gardeners often still refer to it as bealei, which is not such a free-flowering type. Related Articles 12 December 1998: Nature was generous - except with scent [Fred Whitsey on mahonias] 08 Dec 2001 M. japonica makes a big shrub that can seem overpowering when its stems start to go grey and gaunt but, like all mahonias, it can be cut back after flowering. The best thing about M. japonica is that its flowers smell heavenly.

M. lomariifolia is an arresting shrub. A native of Burma and west China, where it grows to 40ft, it is not really hardy here except in sheltered places. It is much more upright in form than M. japonica and carries its flowers in tufts like the leaves of a pineapple. Cornish gardeners can enjoy this exotic-looking plant with its elegant and prickly foliage but, for most of us, its progeny are a better bet. The first of the crosses between M. lomariifolia and M. japonica was `Charity', which is large but handsome. Untouched, it will probably end up about 4ft 6in high and almost as wide, but it can be controlled by pruning. Graham Stuart Thomas, the distinguished plantsman, suggests that the later hybrid `Lionel Fortescue' may be better, because the flowers are held higher. `Winter Sun' is smaller than `Charity' or `Lionel Fortescue' and better scented but all of these hybrids, as well as `Buckland', are first-class shrubs with AGM recognition. In fact, almost everything I have mentioned gets that accolade.

The Irish nurseryman deserves an award for the plant that bears his name. Anything that flowers in November is a rare treat but mahonias look distinguished all year. Good companions Any winter flower looks good in a group backed by a mahonia. Hellebores, snowdrops, winter honeysuckle, even the common winter jasmine, will look better in the company of the mahonia's strong leaves. Fashionable tropical plantings can take a dash of mahonia but they also suit traditional borders. I find it hard to think of a garden where a mahonia would look out of place. Growing tips Mahonias are easy to grow in sun or shade and they are not too fussy about soil conditions. The only thing they might not enjoy is a boggy place. Do not be afraid to prune them hard after flowering, or they will get leggy and ugly. Where to buy Because mahonias are such choice shrubs, they should be available countrywide from garden centres. They are not good mail-order plants. For the rarer varieties, make the pilgrimage to Spinners Garden, Boldre, Lymington, Hampshire SO41 5QE (01590 673347).

You can also order mahonias online from Crocus.co.uk . Click here to see their selection. The best mahonias - Telegraph The best mahonias Shrub up nicely: Mahonia 'Winter Sun' By Ursula Buchan Comments Ursula Buchan on the best mahonias Mahonias are impressive winter-flowering shrubs which make an imposing feature in a border. There is something quite uncompromising about their yellow flowers whose scent is reminiscent of lily-of-the-valley. Mahonia is closely related to berberis, but with larger, bolder leaves. These leaves are glossy, evergreen and pinnate - that is, divided into pairs of spiky leaflets. They often take on red or purple tints when the weather turns cold. The flowers are individually small and globular or bell-like in shape, but are borne either on long racemes, or on short, congested ones. They open from the centre of the plant first, and flowering lasts for many weeks. The flowers are often followed by small, plum-coloured fruits, which are much loved by birds. Five species and hybrids are widely available, as well as some excellent garden-raised cultivars.

Most are hardy anywhere in this country, although one of the best, Mahonia lomariifolia, is also the most tender and is usually found in sheltered spots in the South and West. These shrubs are not fussy about soil and all are happiest in shade, partial or otherwise, and do best in a site sheltered from cold winds. They are relatively slow-growing. Once planted, they need no further care, apart from the occasional removal of dead wood. Their glossy leaves mean they are left alone by pests. Mahonia lomariifolia originates from China and Burma. It is rather tender, so is best known as one parent of some very fine Mahonia x media hybrids, such as 'Buckland' and 'Winter Sun' (see below). It makes an imposing, 3m (10ft) tall, upright shrub with interesting fissured bark. It has dark-green leaves, 60cm (2ft) long, divided into many leaflets. The scented flowers are produced from November to February. Mahonia x media 'Winter Sun' is another excellent garden hybrid with bright-yellow flowers in large, vertical clusters. Other cultivated varieties in the M.

x media family, not very different from each other and quite widely available, include 'Charity', 'Underway' and 'Lionel Fortescue'. All are well worth the garden space. Mahonia japonica is a handsome, statuesque plant, generally 2m (7ft) tall and as much across. The leaves emerge from the stems almost horizontally. The winter flowers are scented, lemon-yellow and held in arching racemes. It also has masses of oval, purple fruit in early summer. This species, actually from China, is a reliable, hardy shrub. Mahonia japonica Bealei Group has shorter but more upright spikes of flower. Mahonia aquifolium is the famous Oregon Grape, so called because it comes from the western United States and the round fruits are blue-black. It makes brilliant, suckering groundcover in shady spots and grows to 1m by 1.5m (3ft by 5ft). The leaves look rather scruffy in summer, and the spring flowers are not held as elegantly as in the Asian species.

However, there are superior forms, such as 'Apollo', which has longer racemes of flower, and the compact 'Smaragd', which has larger flower clusters. Mahonia x media varieties are the first mahonias to flower, in autumn. Mahonia x media 'Buckland' (pictured) has the hardiness of Mahonia japonica and the flower power of Mahonia lomariifolia. Its arching racemes can reach 45cm (18in) long. The leaves are also 45cm (18in) in length, with up to 21 leaflets, and take on red tints in winter. In time, it makes a large, striking shrub. Reader offer Gardening readers can buy either Mahonia japonica or Mahonia x media 'Winter Sun' with this offer. One plant supplied in a 9cm (4in) pot is available for £10.95, or readers can buy both varieties for £17.90, saving £4.

Call 0870 950 5926, quoting ref.TL274 or send cheques made payable to Telegraph Garden Service to Telegraph Mahonia Offer, Rookery Farm, Joys Bank, Holbeach St John's, Spalding PE12 8SG. Delivery within 28 days. 1000+ images about Mahonia - for the winter garden on Pinterest | Blue berry, Oregon and Shrubs Pinterest • The world’s catalog of ideas Mahonia - for the winter garden Mahonia is a lush evergreen shrub with beautiful plum-red new growth and cheerful, honey-scented yellow flowers November-March. Mahonia flowers and berries attract birds (hummingbirds!) and bees. A fabulous addition for year-round interest and color in the winter garden. Read about Mahonia's history on our Blog: 20 Pins433 Followers

Question: If you have a 'Mahonia Japonica', in which season will it be in flower?
Answer: Winter