Malus domestica Howgate Wonder - Apple Howgate Wonder - Dobbies Garden Centres Malus domestica Howgate Wonder Apple Howgate Wonder A great cooking apple which can be enjoyed all winter A cooking apple that you can store which means that you don't need to fill the freezer or use them in a hurry. The apples have red skins and a sharp flavour which is also great for juice. Where? Happiest in full sun and moist, rich soil. Give this tree plenty of room so that it can spread its branches. How? Dig organic matter into the soil before planting - homemade garden compost or well rotted manure is fine. Water your tree occasionally in dry weather until it has established. To get a crop of apples there needs to be another apple tree nearby which flowers around the same time, to act as a pollinator. This variety is in flowering group 3, so will need a neighbour from flowering group 2, 3 or 4. Apple 'Howgate Wonder' was introduced in 1915 by Mr George Wratten. It originated in his garden in Howgate Lane, on the Isle of Wight.

Dobbies plant guarantee We’re so confident of the quality of all our hardy plants that we offer a lifetime guarantee. Please click here for more info. Malus domestica 'Howgate Wonder' Apple Care Plant Varieties & Pruning Advice Thin fruit as required. Prune back new shoots to two buds in winter. Propagation methods Monthly care advice Get access to monthly care advice Create a free SHOOT account and get instant access to expert care advice for this and other plants in your garden. You'll also receive handy monthly email reminders of what needs doing. Create your free account. Create a free account Where to grow Malus domestica 'Howgate Wonder' (Apple 'Howgate Wonder') will reach a height of 9m and a spread of 6m after 5-10 years. Suggested uses Architectural, City, Cottage/Informal, Containers Cultivation Plant in moderately fertile, moist, free-draining soil in full sun, although it will tolerate partial shade. Keep a clear area around the trunk of at least 60cm radius.

Soil type Howgate Wonder Howgate Wonder Results 1 to 8 of 15 4Likes 4,471 Howgate Wonder Having just taken out my last Howgate Wonder apples - one of the few with a good crop last year due to the late frosts, early summer drought and late summer heavy rain - I though that I'd take a few pictures. These apples have been stored in an ordinary cardboard box in my unheated brick garage/workshop since October; five months ago. They look remarkably good still - and the texture and taste is still perfectly edible (better than almost anything you'll buy off-the-shelf in the shop at this time of year, although the "coarse" and "crumbly" texture comes as a surprise to some people!). You'll notice a few black "scab" spots and a few brown-with-white-centre "brown rot" spots, but their development is very slow. Once the temperatures get into the high teens for several days, any blemished fruit will rapidly decay. Not bad though, for five-month-old apples in the most basic of storage conditions.

(I have a liking for long keepers!) 4,471 Northepaul & Chris Yes, Howgate Wonders are quite an attractive apple. In wet areas, the tree and fruit can suffer from canker and scab. You can see a few small scab spots on perhaps half of my (unsprayed) fruits - grown without sprays - but they were grown in a relatively low-rainfall area, albeit during a rather wet late summer last year. Howgate have a conical shape, with smooth, green-yellow skin, with a red sunny side. The skin is quite tough and can get a bit greasy in storage. Howgate Wonder is the record holder for largest apple. If you grow them on a well-fed M9 and thin hard after fruit set, the few remaining apples can reach an enormous size. Formerly grown for exhibition. Edward VII and Annie Elizabeth are also nice showy apples - possibly related to Howgate Wonder. Howgate Wonder = Blenheim Orange (?) x Newton Wonder (?) Edward VII = Blenheim Orange (?) x Golden Noble (?) Annie Elizabeth = Blenheim Orange (?) x Dumelow's Seedling (?) All those apples - and Blenheim - have attractive appearance and good keeping qualities.

Howgate and Blenheim are "crumbly" or "coarse" in texture. Annie and Edward aren't nearly as crumbly/coarse. I understand that Howgate Wonder are still grown commercially on a small scale. I've heard of them being popular for juicing - along with Falstaff and James Grieve. Perhaps try a farm shop. I suspect that they are declining with commercial orchards because: 1. They are rather too sweet and mild-flavoured for a cooker. 2. They are too colourful for the stereotypical cooker. 3. They are much too large for one person to eat (although pleasant to eat) - although you can eat half today and the other half tomorrow! 4. The trees disease resistance is only average. 5. The trees are fairly vigorous. Last edited by FB.; 07-03-2011 at 05:21 PM.

4,471 Originally Posted by northepaul If I (ever) get an allotment, I would consider getting one, for all the reasons supermarkets dont want them, (except the desease resistance, which would make me think twice.) Average disease resistance is not as bad as it sounds; it is average - comparable with the average variety growing in the UK. Not highly resistant, but not highly prone. Wet climates put great demands on apples abilities to resist scab or canker. Dry climates (drought summers or poor soil) demand a lot of their ability to resist mildew. Howgate Wonder has above-average resistance to mildew (say 8/10), but only average to scab or canker (say 6/10). Therefore, I described it as being about average. Edward VII and Annie Elizabeth have more resistance to scab (say 8/10), but less to mildew (say 6/10). Blenheim has resistance similar to Howgate. Resistance can vary considerably with location. Sometimes a very resistant variety is widely grown, but the diseases - over many decades - eventually overcome its resistance and start to spread to other trees of the same variety.

Bramley used to be highly scab resistant. Nowadays it is about the same as Howgate Wonder; average. Crawley Beauty has profuse blossom and attractive fruit (although with a slight yeasty "bloom" like a plum). After the spectacular flowering display, the blossom of CB looks unusually messy for a few days after flowering finishes. But Crawley Beauty has good resistance to just about everything - 8 or 9 out of 10 for scab, canker, mildew and pests. However, the fruit are only average flavour; a little too mild-flavoured for a cooker and a little too sharp for an eater until stored for some months. As a spray-free grower, I wouldn't be without a Crawley Beauty. Last edited by FB.; 07-03-2011 at 06:20 PM.

Posts 76 thanks for some advice on the Howgate wonder FB i just ordered one yesterday to replace a wild cherry which grew out of control 25ft tall and it was only 11 years old believe it or not it had to go.if you dont mind FB could you tell me if its a regular cropper and if its better to eat raw or cooked cheers 4,471 Originally Posted by littleexperience thanks for some advice on the Howgate wonder FB i just ordered one yesterday to replace a wild cherry which grew out of control 25ft tall and it was only 11 years old believe it or not it had to go.if you dont mind FB could you tell me if its a regular cropper and if its better to eat raw or cooked cheers Howgate Wonder is a heavy and reliable cropper. It is also reasonably frost-resistant. Most of my Howgate Wonders get eaten raw (in two halves on different days!). "Down South", it is OK as a a mild-flavoured cooker early in the season (only needs half the sugar of Bramley), but the acidity fades by about Christmas, making it better as an eater.

"Up North", it will probably be more acidic and retain the acidity into the new year, before becoming an eater in spring time. Many apple "experts" consider Howgate Wonder to be above-average in the cooler and duller North, but beware the heavier rainfall causing higher levels of scab or canker. Here's an extract from Crawford's Directory: Pick: Early-mid October Flowering: 12 (D) <mid-season> Partially self fertile Fruit: large, round-conical, pale green, flushed brownish-red, striped red, skin greasy. Flesh: pale cream, quite sharp, juicy, flavour pleasant. Cooked qualities: flavour very light. Texture: keeps shape. Good for making juice. Cider apple category: full sharp. Tree: vigorous, spreading, hardy, heavy cropping. Parentage: Blenheim Orange x Newton Wonder. Origin: UK (Isle of Wight), 1915. Here's an extract from another text: Flowering: mid season Storage: March Vigour: T3 <T3 means above average> "Impressively large culinary apple and popular exhibition fruit, raised Isle of Wight, 1915. Blenheim x Newton.

Sweet Juicy fruit. Vigorous trees, crop well, very hardy, so popular in the North" Here's another extract: "Famed for lare size. Eaten fresh: quite sweet, juicy, pleasant. Cooked: keeps shape but very light flavour in comparison with Bramley. Exhibition garden variety. Grown small extent commercially. Flowering: 12. Vigour: T3. Spreading tree habit. Resistant to mildew. Cropping: heavy. Pick: October, store: March." You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts sweet-3-oct-dessert:cooking- HOWGATE WONDER Howgate Wonder 6 feet high Espalier (MM106) 6 feet high Fan (MM106) Tree Forms Bare Root 18 feet high Half Standard Tree (MM106) 18 feet high Bush (MM106) 30 feet high Straight Lead Tree (M25) Foliage Colour: Bright Orange-Red over Yellow Month for Picking: October Keep Months: November to March Comment Taste: Eaten fresh has sweet, juicy, pleasant taste.

Cooked, keeps shape but very light; insipid by comparison with Bramley. Very large size apple. Resistant to mildew. (o)Garden Pictures To ensure that the apple blossom is pollinated by the bees, then another apple tree from the same or adjacent flowering group ( Group 1 with Group 1 or 2, Group 2 with Group 1 or Group 3, etc ) should be present within a short distance. Further details in Introduction Page . The list of Apple Trees is in alphabetical order with the Acid/Sweet Taste - Flowering Group - Month of Picking in UK - Apple Type - Apple Name . Apple - Howgate Wonder - tasting notes, identification, reviews (Use the form at the bottom to add your own comments about this variety) 11 Mar 2014 Dave, STOCKPORT, United Kingdom I first saw this apple as a student - it was so large I couldn't resist buying one which served as lunch for myself and two friends. Years later I found some at my local fruit shop but have never managed to get them since. Although not quite as tasty as some other varieties it can be eaten or cooked and needs little sugar.

It doesn't fall as readily as Bramley when cooked so makes lovely pies and flans without soggy bottoms. 15 Nov 2012 Paul Hutchinson, YORKSHIRE, United Kingdom Howgate Wonder is not a cooking apple. A big apple does not a cooker make. It is however a good desert apple and left unthinned won't be too big. A bit like Granny Smiths but less acid and unlike Granny Smiths will grow in the UK. Full of juce an apple for children. 06 Aug 2011 Barbara, HAMPSHIRE, United Kingdom I have had my tree for about 10 years, it fruits heavily every other year, this year is the quiet one, just has 4 huge apples on it. Very versatile apple, like the way it does not go mushy when cooked. 29 Jul 2011 Yubbadeb, United Kingdom Eric and Vernon, this tree is sold over the net by R V Rogers.(UK). I had some gooseberries from them last year; very sturdy plants.

26 Jan 2011 Eric Bird, DORSET, United Kingdom My grandfather purshased a Howgate Wonder just after the WW2 and it was amazing. I would like to get one but they seem difficult to obtain. any stockists near Bournemouth? 12 Oct 2010 Sara, STAFFORDSHIRE, United Kingdom My Mum has always praised these apples as she grew up with a Howgate Wonder apple tree in her garden. Last year I tried them for the first time and they are fantastic! My Mum was over the moon as she had looked out for this variety before and not been able to get any but on that particular day she was very lucky. She happened to be in our local farm shop and a man came in with a huge sack of these Howgate Wonder asking if the farm shop wanted to buy them, they didn't. My Mum happened to over hear and managed to buy them for herself. She was so happy and cooked them up to make pies with etc and we managed to freeze a load to use throughout the year. In my opinion these apples far exceed the watery mush that Bramley seem to turn into when cooked.

Howgate wonder hold their shape and form, there taste is multi dimensional with sweetness and tartness at a perfect balance. I recommend these to all! 01 Oct 2010 Patricia, HAMPSHIRE, United Kingdom Sadly we had to move from the wonderful Fens some 3 years ago and are now unable to obtain Howgate Wonder easily. We always were able to buy them from the Royal Sandringham orchards where we used to pick various other varieties. I had a super apple rack and stored a lot of fruit. However, one year mice got into the rack and ate many of the Howgates plus the Cox`s and left the Bramleys. Orchard Manager at Sandringham said that even the mice knew a good apple! We ate them both raw and cooked and I never added sugar. They made wonderful flans as they never lost their shape, unlike Bramleys which tend to collapse. I think they probably stock Howgate Wonder at the Windsor farm shop as I recall they sent them down from Sandringham when it first opened at Windsor. Carl at King`s Lynn is a lucky man having Howgates virtually on his doorstep!

30 Sep 2010 Rosemary, PEMBROKESHIRE, United Kingdom This variety is fun to grow as the apples are so huge! In my previous garden in Berkshire I grew one as a rather untidy fan trained tree which worked well. I do agree that it is not the tastiest when cooked. 29 Sep 2010 Heather Gardiner, United Kingdom My father gave me a Howgate Wonder 15 years ago. I live in an area where we have late frosts and a short growing season. It has consistently given excellent crops of huge apples that last all winter. Wonderful tree. 13 Dec 2009 Corinne, PETERBOROUGH, United Kingdom Howgate apples are huge, delicious and must not be allowed to die out. I went out today to try to get some in the Wisbech area - where I believe they are grown - but was told that the apples are being left on the trees -or to fall - as no one wants them. that is because you can not get them in shops. Just one large apple will make a great family apple crumble with very little sugar.

18 Nov 2009 Andrew Colchester, SUFFOLK, United Kingdom I have an old tree in my garden. It is a reliable very heavy cropper. Mainly used as cooker, apple pies, apple sauce, etc. and excellent for cider! 18 Oct 2009 Graham, HARLOW, United Kingdom I have, what I believe to be, a Howgate Wonder in my garden. I would like to have that confirmed. The fruit is very large - the largest I have picked weighed over 3lbs last year. Where can I post some pictures to check if I am right? 16 Oct 2009 Carl, KING'S LYNN, United Kingdom Just bought a bag giant apple today seller said they were Howgate and suggested I removed core, filled with Mincemeat and Microwave for 10mins. I have never seen a larger apple, are these the largest in UK? Carl 25 Jul 2009 Geoff, YORK, United Kingdom This apple needs to be reasonably ripe before cooking otherwise it will remain hard. See Jim Prentice 29/7/2008. Pick October will keep to April.

24 Feb 2009 Ronhutson, NORWICH NORFOLK, United Kingdom Feb. I have just bought my first Howgate Wonders and following advice not to add sugar just currants I baked it for 10 mins in a microwave and with a little icecream it was delicious, though skins a bit tough which I ate anyway. If i had space I would certainly buy a tree. 20 Nov 2008 Tim, GRANTHAM, LINCOLNSHIRE. ENGLAND, United Kingdom One of my clients gave me some of these apples off his tree today. Although the skins are blotchy and the fruits vary a lot in size the fruit itself is quite good once the skin is removed. Not as sharp as i expected but tasty and still juicy bearing in mind it is mid november. 18 Oct 2008 Lesley, STOCKPORT, CHESHIRE,UK, United Kingdom What I like most about the Howgate Wonder is that it doesn't need any added sugar if you do choose to cook it.

14 Oct 2008 Tony Sanders, WEST DORSET, United Kingdom Have just picked a 1lb 12 3/4oz apple - delicious to eat with or without Cheddar cheese!! 12 Oct 2008 Alina, OXON, United Kingdom I regretted planting this one as the cooked flavour is not up to much unless flavoured with currants or berries, used it mainly in mincemeat. Maybe its better eaten raw... 28 Sep 2008 Christine Chapman, BLETCHLEY MILTON KEYNES, United Kingdom I discovered this apple about 35 years ago. Every year the manager of the friut shop would ring to tell me they were in.I never found that apple again after the shop closed down, until today when my brother informed me that he has a tree at his farm.I have just eaten one again after about thirty years of being Howgateless.They are the best!There is no apple better in my opinion. 04 Aug 2008 Ed, LONDON, United Kingdom I agree - why cook it! It's a great eating apple!

29 Jul 2008 Jim Prentice, LANCASHIRE, United Kingdom Many years ago I purchased a Howgate Wonder on the advice of a nursery man but soon found that the apples remained hard even when cooked for a considerable period of time. It was replaced with a Bramley Seedling that in my opinion is a much better cooking apple. 19 Feb 2008 Rachel, OXFORDSHIRE, United Kingdom Quite agree with Clarissa - very nice raw! 10 Dec 2007 Vernon Kerns, WEST VIRGINIA, United States Is it possible to import apple scion wood from England? Vernon Kerns 14 Oct 2007 Clarissa, LINCOLNSHIRE, United Kingdom Why spoil this delicious apple by cooking it? It is one of the best flavoured eating apples around, and a very good keeper as well. This year the skins are a bit scabby, but still taste lovely.

Apple tree 'Howgate Wonder' • Malus domestica 'Howgate Wonder' • Apple 'Howgate Wonder' • Plants & Flowers • 99Roots.com Malus domestica 'Howgate Wonder' | Also known as: Apple 'Howgate Wonder' | Rating: 0 votes | Print / Pdf Malus domestica Howgate Wonder Malus domestica Howgate Wonder Malus domestica you'll know as the apple tree. What you might not know is that it's actually a member of the rose family. With it's tasty edible fruit, it's a very common and popular tree grown both in the garden and for commercial purposes. The trees are small, growing no taller than 9 metres in height and they have attractive white or pink blossom as well as the fruits so it's a good multi-purpose garden tree. There are more than 7500 types of apple tree, some have fruit that can be eaten straight from the tree, others bear fruit for cooking and yet more are perfect for making cider with. Around 70 tonnes of apples are produced per year worldwide, about half of this is grown in China. It is thought that the apple tree is the earliest fruit tree to be cultivated and is mentioned in many historical texts.

Time to reach full size up to 10 years Malus domestica ( Howgate Wonder Apple ) | Backyard Gardener - Gardening Information Garden Interest Malus domestica ( Howgate Wonder Apple ) Apple trees can grow to a height of 30 feet and a width of 15 feet with a growth of 8 to 12 feet per year. They require rich soil, moderate watering, good drainage and full sun. When planting, space trees according to their ultimate size. To prevent corrective pruning later on, frequent light pruning during the tree’s early years is required. It is recommended to prune mature trees to allow new growth and to permit sunlight to reach into the tree to discourage mildew. Scab is the most troublesome disease that affects apple trees. Fire blight, apple rust disease, black rot, and bitter rot can all be a problem as well as the following insect pests: aphids, red mite, flat-headed apple-tree borer, friot-tree bark beetle, codling moth, and apple maggots. Important Info : Do not plant in low areas where frost settles or where apple trees have previously been planted. Google Plant Images: click here! Where can you buy this plant: click here!

Characteristics Size: Height: 10 ft. to 30 ft. Width: 10 ft. to 15 ft. Plant Category: fruits, trees, Foliage Characteristics: medium leaves, deciduous, Flower Characteristics: fragrant, long lasting, Flower Color: whites, Bloomtime Range: Mid Spring to Early Summer USDA Hardiness Zone: 3 to 9 AHS Heat Zone: Not defined for this plant Light Range: Full Sun to Full Sun pH Range: 6.5 to 7 Soil Range: Sandy Loam to Clay Loam Water Range: Normal to Normal Plant Care Fertilizing How-to : Fertilization for Established Plants Established plants can benefit from fertilization. Take a visual inventory of your landscape. Trees need to be fertilized every few years. Shrubs and other plants in the landscape can be fertilized yearly. A soil test can determine existing nutrient levels in the soil. If one or more nutrients is low, a specific instead of an all-purpose fertilizer may be required. Fertilizers that are high in N, nitrogen, will promote green leafy growth. Excess nitrogen in the soil can cause excessive vegetative growth on plants at the expense of flower bud development.

It is best to avoid fertilizing late in the growing season. Applications made at that time can force lush, vegetative growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the onset of cold weather. Light Conditions : Light Conditions Unless a site is completely exposed, light conditions will change during the day and even during the year. The northern and eastern sides of a house receive the least amount of light, with the northern exposure being the shadiest. The western and southern sides of a house receive the most light and are considered the hottest exposures due to intense afternoon sun. You will notice that sun and shade patterns change during the day. The western side of a house may even be shady due to shadows cast by large trees or a structure from an adjacent property. If you have just bought a new home or just beginning to garden in your older home, take time to map sun and shade throughout the day. You will get a more accurate feel for your site's true light conditions. Conditions : Types of Pruning Types of pruning include: pinching, thinning, shearing and rejuvenating. Pinching is removing the stem tips of a young plant to promote branching. Doing this avoids the need for more severe pruning later on.

Thinning involves removing whole branches back to the trunk. This may be done to open up the interior of a plant to let more light in and to increase air circulation that can cut down on plant disease. The best way to begin thinning is to begin by removing dead or diseased wood. Shearing is leveling the surface of a shrub using hand or electric shears. This is done to maintain the desired shape of a hedge or topiary. Rejuvenating is removal of old branches or the overall reduction of the size of a shrub to restore its original form and size. It is recommended that you do not remove more than one third of a plant at a time. Remember to remove branches from the inside of the plant as well as the outside. When rejuvenating plants with canes, such as nandina, cut back canes at various heights so that plant will have a more natural look. Conditions : Light and Plant Selection For best plant performance, it is desirable to match the correct plant with the available light conditions. Right plant, right place! Plants which do not receive sufficient light may become pale in color, have fewer leaves and a "leggy" stretched-out appearance.

Also expect plants to grow slower and have fewer blooms when light is less than desirable. It is possible to provide supplemental lighting for indoor plants with lamps. Plants can also receive too much light. If a shade loving plant is exposed to direct sun, it may wilt and/or cause leaves to be sunburned or otherwise damaged. Conditions : Full Sun Full Sun is defined as exposure to more than 6 hours of continuous, direct sun per day. Watering Conditions : Regular Moisture for Outdoor Plants Water when normal rainfall does not provide the preferred 1 inch of moisture most plants prefer. Average water is needed during the growing season, but take care not to overwater. The first two years after a plant is installed, regular watering is important. The first year is critical. It is better to water once a week and water deeply, than to water frequently for a few minutes. Conditions : Outdoor Watering Plants are almost completely made up of water so it is important to supply them with adequate water to maintain good plant health. Not enough water and roots will wither and the plant will wilt and die. Too much water applied too frequently deprives roots of oxygen leading to plant diseases such as root and stem rots.

The type of plant, plant age, light level, soil type and container size all will impact when a plant needs to be watered. Follow these tips to ensure successful watering: * The key to watering is water deeply and less frequently. When watering, water well, i.e. provide enough water to thoroughly saturate the root ball. With in-ground plants, this means thoroughly soaking the soil until water has penetrated to a depth of 6 to 7 inches (1' being better). With container grown plants, apply enough water to allow water to flow through the drainage holes. * Try to water plants early in the day or later in the afternoon to conserve water and cut down on plant stress. Do water early enough so that water has had a chance to dry from plant leaves prior to night fall. This is paramount if you have had fungus problems. * Don't wait to water until plants wilt. Although some plants will recover from this, all plants will die if they wilt too much (when they reach the permanent wilting point). * Consider water conservation methods such as drip irrigation, mulching, and xeriscaping. Drip systems which slowly drip moisture directly on the root system can be purchased at your local home and garden center.

Mulches can significantly cool the root zone and conserve moisture. * Consider adding water-saving gels to the root zone which will hold a reserve of water for the plant. These can make a world of difference especially under stressful conditions. Be certain to follow label directions for their use. Planting How-to : Pruning Trees After Planting It is critical to prune trees correctly from the beginning to assure proper growth and development. Young trees can be transplanted in a number of forms: bare root, balled & burlap and in containers. The more stress the plant undergoes in the transplant process, the more pruning that is required to compensate. Deciduous trees like maples (those that loose their leaves in the fall) can be dug up and sold with their bare roots exposed. Because most of the root system is lost in digging, sufficient top growth should be removed to compensate for this loss. This may be done at the nursery before you buy the plant or you may have to prune at the time of planting. Select and head back the best scaffold branches, i.e. those branches which will form the main lateral structure of the future mature tree. Remove all other extraneous side branches.

If the tree seedling does not have branches, allow it to grow to the desired height of branching then pinch it back to stimulate the lower buds to form branches. Ball and burlap trees are dug up with their root systems somewhat intact. This was mostly done for conifers and broadleaf evergreens, but has become common for deciduous trees as well. Since some root mass is lost in the digging stage, a light pruning is generally called for. Head back the plant to compensate for this loss and to promote branching. Trees that are grown in containers generally do not loose roots in the transplanting phase. Therefore you do not generally have to prune them unless there is some root injury or limb damage in the planting process. Once you have your trees planted, be patient. Do not remove shoots from the trunk early on as these allow the tree to grow more rapidly and also shade the tender young trunk from sun-scald. Wait a few years to begin training the tree to its ultimate form. How-to : Staking Trees Staking is done differently depending on the size and flexibility of the tree, and the windiness of the planting site. Generally only trees that are planted in windy, exposed locations need to be staked.

For most trees, a low stake is preferred, to let the tree move naturally. For windy areas or flexible trees, use a high stake. For trees more than 12 feet tall, use two low stakes on opposite sides of the tree or several guy ropes. The ties used need to accommodate growth and not cause bark damage with friction. Buckle-and-spacer ties can be found at garden centers, they are expandable and have a protective spacer. Ties without spacers should be formed into a figure eight to create padding. Latest studies have shown that when staking a tree, provide enough leeway so that the tree can move back and forth in the wind. Stronger roots will develop this way. If the tree can not move back and forth, these important roots will not develop and the tree might fall over during a storm, once stakes are removed. When planting a tree, stake at the time of planting if staking is a necessity. How-to : Planting a Tree Dig out an area for the tree that is about 3 or 4 times the diameter of the container or rootball and the same depth as the container or rootball. Use a pitchfork or shovel to scarify the sides of the hole.

If container-grown, lay the tree on its side and remove the container. Loosen the roots around the edges without breaking up the root ball too much. Position tree in center of hole so that the best side faces forward. You are ready to begin filling in with soil. If planting a balled and burlaped tree, position it in hole so that the best side faces forward. Untie or remove nails from burlap at top of ball and pull burlap back, so it does not stick out of hole when soil is replaced. Synthetic burlap should be removed as it will not decompose like natural burlap. Larger trees often come in wire baskets. Plant as you would a b&b plant, but cut as much of the wire away as possible without actually removing the basket. Chances are, you would do more damage to the rootball by removing the basket. Simply cut away wires to leave several large openings for roots. Fill both holes with soil the same way. Never amend with less than half original soil. Recent studies show that if your soil is loose enough, you are better off adding little or no soil amendments. Create a water ring around the outer edge of the hole.

Not only will this conseve water, but will direct moisture to perimeter roots, encouraging outer growth. Once tree is established, water ring may be leveled. Studies show that mulched trees grow faster than those unmulched, so add a 3"" layer of pinestraw, compost, or pulverized bark over backfilled area. Remove any damaged limbs. Problems Pest : Maggots Maggots live in the soil, chew the root hairs off of plants and love to tunnel through root crops such as onions, garlic and leeks. They are about 1/3 of an inch long, glossy white and blunt-headed. Adults are dark grey flies that resemble the common housefly. Prevenion and Control: Floating row covers or cheesecloth set over seedbeds in early spring may deter egg laying on young plants. Crop rotation is a must. Always remove and destroy infected plants. Beneficial nemtodes will prey on maggots as well. Till soil well in the fall to expose and destroy pupae. Pest : Aphids Aphids are small, soft-bodied, slow-moving insects that suck fluids from plants. Aphids come in many colors, ranging from green to brown to black, and they may have wings.

They attack a wide range of plant species causing stunting, deformed leaves and buds. They can transmit harmful plant viruses with their piercing/sucking mouthparts. Aphids, generally, are merely a nuisance, since it takes many of them to cause serious plant damage. However aphids do produce a sweet substance called honeydew (coveted by ants) which can lead to an unattractive black surface growth called sooty mold. Aphids can increase quickly in numbers and each female can produce up to 250 live nymphs in the course of a month without mating. Aphids often appear when the environment changes - spring & fall. They're often massed at the tips of branches feeding on succulent tissue. Aphids are attracted to the color yellow and will often hitchhike on yellow clothing. Prevention and Control: Keep weeds to an absolute minimum, especially around desirable plants. On edibles, wash off infected area of plant. Lady bugs and lacewings will feed on aphids in the garden. There are various products - organic and inorganic - that can be used to control aphids. Seek the recommendation of a professional and follow all label procedures to a tee.

Fungi : Rusts Most rusts are host specific and overwinter on leaves, stems and spent flower debris. Rust often appears as small, bright orange, yellow, or brown pustules on the underside of leaves. If touched, it will leave a colored spot of spores on the finger. Caused by fungi and spread by splashing water or rain, rust is worse when weather is moist. Prevention and Control: Plant resistant varieties and provide maximum air circulation. Clean up all debris, especially around plants that have had a problem. Do not water from overhead and water only during the day so that plants will have enough time to dry before night. Apply a fungicide labeled for rust on your plant. Pest : Caterpillars Caterpillars are the immature form of moths and butterflies. They are voracious feeders attacking a wide variety of plants. They can be highly destructive and are characterized as leaf feeders, stem borers, leaf rollers, cutworms and tent-formers.

Prevention and Control: keep weeds down, scout individual plants and remove caterpillars, apply labeled insecticides such as soaps and oils, take advantage of natural enemies such as parasitic wasps in the garden and use Bacillus thuringiensis (biological warfare) for some caterpillar species. Diseases : Blight Blights are cause by fungi or bacteria that kill plant tissue. Symptoms often show up as the rapid spotting or wilting of foliage. There are many different blights, specific to various plants, each requiring a varied method of control. Diseases : Apple Scab Apple Scab fungus thrives in cool, moist areas and overwinters in infected leaves that have fallen to the ground. In spring, spores infect new leaves, stems, flowers and fruit. If conditions are right (wet and 70 degrees), the fungus can infect the fruit around the bloom in just 6 hours, though visible signs may not be noticed for a couple of weeks. Infection first appears as a dark green or black irregular patch on leaf surfaces. It is not uncommon for leaves to pucker and become discolored and eventually fall of the tree.

Scab on fruit shows up as a brownish patch with a white halo. Older lesions will not have the halo. Prevention and Control: Plant resistant varieties whenever possible. Remember, resistant does not mean immune. Keep trees properly pruned to promote good air circulation and always rake up and destroy fallen leaves. If you have a known problem from previous years, treat with an appropriate fungicide early on. Follow all directions on the label - make sure the fungicide you select is labelled for use on that plant to control apple scab It is too late to treat if you see scab on fruit and trees. Fungi : Cedar Apple Rust Cedar Apple Rust requires two alternate hosts each year: cedar or juniper type plants and apples, crabapples or hawthorn. Between spring and early summer, infected juniper or cedar leaves and stems may swell with greenish-brown galls. By fall, the galls have developed dimples. Though these do no immediate harm to the plant, by the following spring, when weather is wet and warm, the galls swell and develop jelly-like horn protrusions. Spores produced by these horns then infect apple trees. Wind carried spores are capable of infecting trees up to 4 miles away.

On apples, cedar apple rust appears as rusty orange spots, having a ring-like appearance. Fruit drop is also common. Prevention and Control Plant resistant varieties and eliminate hosts from the area. Chinese and Savin Junipers seem to be resistant as are apple varieties Freedom, Liberty, and Priscilla. Always rake-up and destroy diseased or damaged fruit and leaves. There are no chemicals available labeled for home gardener use. Miscellaneous Glossary : Naturalizing Naturalizing refers to planting in a random pattern, much as itwould occur in nature. If you spend any time in the woods, you've probably noticed that plants often grow in groups. The center of the group is dense and towards the edges, plants are located farther apart. Narcissus bulbs are easy to naturalize if you use this method: fill a bucket with bulbs and toss them out. Plant them where they fall. You will notice a portion of the bulbs are close together while the others have scattered farther away. Glossary : Specimen A specimen can be a tree, shrub, ground cover, annual, or perennial that is unique in comparison to the surrounding plants. Uniqueness may be in color, form, texture, or size.

By using only one specimen plant in a visual area, it can be showcased. Specimen plants are accents in the landscape, just as statues, water features, or arbors. Glossary : Tree Tree: a woody perennial with a crown of branches that begin atop a single stem or trunk. The exception to this rule is multi-trunk trees, which some may argue are really very large shrubs. Glossary : U. S. Natives Native plants require lower maintenance and usually have less pest problems. They are key components in the xeriphytic landscape and backyard wildlife habitat. Select your region and the search will look for all plants in the database that are native to your area. Plant Images Fruit Trees - Galbally Nursery. Galbally Nursery. Kearneys Galbally Nursery 086 8626736 galballynursery@gmail.com Summary tips (Scroll to the bottom of this page to read full article) Fruit Trees should be pruned every winter to ensure a good crop of fruit the following season. Planting too deep is a common cause of tree death. Aim to plant at the same depth that the tree was growing in the nursery.

Keep a mulch- free circle around the base of the tree trunk (about 7.3- 10cm or 3- 4in) to prevent the bark decaying Apply mulch mid- to late spring and autumn. Pruning should be carried out from November to March. Prune out Canker diseases. Fruit trees benefit from regular fertiliser Fruit Trees need a balanced general fertiliser in early spring. Apples tolerate shade providing they receive half a day's sunshine in the growing season. Apples prefer a sheltered, frost- free position in full sun. You can still grow apples in frost prone areas, just choose later- flowering varieties Click play under this pictures to see a slide show of our more popular varieties. If you would like to purchase then go to the Shop page Apple 3.00 € Pruning Apple and pear trees should be pruned every winter to ensure a good crop of fruit the following season. Trees that are not pruned become less productive. Pruning is not difficult and the aim is to create an open shape with a framework of about five main branches. Pruning should be carried out when the tree is dormant, between leaf fall and bud burst (usually between November and early March).

Always use a sharp pair of secateurs and a pruning saw .Start by removing crossing, rubbing, weak, dead, diseased, damaged and dying branches .Keep the centre of the tree open by removing larger branches with a sharp pruning saw. If several large branches need to be removed, spread the work over two or three winters as very hard pruning encourages even more vigorous growth. Reduce the height and spread of any branches that have grown too large by cutting them back to a vigorous lower branch (making sure this lower branch is at least one- third of the diameter of the branch being removed) Prune the previous year's growth on each main branch and the most vigorous laterals (sideshoots) to the first strong bud. Leave unpruned laterals less than 30cm (1ft) long Cut back a proportion of older fruited wood to a young shoot or leaf bud to reduce congestion Canker Disease. When pruning your apple trees in the winter you may notice signs of apple canker on the stems. Apple canker is a disease caused by a fungus which attacks the bark of apples and some other trees, causing a sunken area of dead bark and, eventually, death of the branch.

New cankers form from mid- spring, and once formed are present all year. Canker is said to be more serious on wet, heavy and/or acid soils, so pay attention to drainage and raise the soil pH by liming if needed. Completely cut out all affected smaller branches and spurs. With the larger branches, try to cut out all infected material. All such pruning should remove all brown, infected bark and wood, cutting back to fresh green tissues. Paint immediately with a protective wound paint such as Arbrex. Seal and Heal, to prevent the wounds becoming reinfected. Spray with the copper- containing fungicides Bordeaux mixture or Bayer Fruit and Vegetable Disease Control, once after picking but before leaf fall and a second time when about half the leaves have fallen. Feeding fruit trees promotes healthy growth, giving the plant all the nutrients it needs to produce the best possible crop. Mulching helps conserve moisture in summer and prevents weeds from growing.Most fruit trees need high amounts of potassium, which is essential for bud and fruit development. Some fruits, such as Plums, pears and apples, require additional nitrogen for growth.

The ideal time to plant fruit trees is in the autumn / early spring , but container grown plants can be purchased and planted at any time of the year provided the soil is not frozen, waterlogged or extremely dry Mulching Apply mulch mid- to late spring and autumn. Newly planted fruit trees should be mulched annually for the first three or four years with bulky organic matter to conserve moisture and reduce competition from weeds and grass. However, mulches contain very few nutrients compared to fertilisers so are not an alternative but complimentary. Bulky organic matter includes the following options: Well- rotted manure Leafmould (tree leaves collected in autumn and composted) separately, as they take a year or more to break down) Straw Garden compost Fertilisers are concentrated sources of plant nutrients. They feed plants rather than feeding the soil. Fruit trees benefit from regular fertiliser. There are many types of fertiliser available, all with different nutrient values. Sprinkle the fertiliser over the tree's rooting area (that is the area just beyond the branch canopy).

Moderate the quantities given if the trees are growing vigorously Three main elements are need for plant growth: nitrogen (N) to encourage good growth, phosphorus (P) for root growth and potassium (K) for fruit and flowers Fruit Trees need a balanced general fertiliser in early spring. As a result, sprinkle around the root zone at the rate of 140g per sq m (4oz per sq yd) It is worth noting that occasional soil testing is helpful in ensuring feeding regimes are effective. Testing every four years is a good idea. Magnesium deficiency is a common problem. The main symptom is a yellowing between the leaf veins in early summer (more commonly seen in thin soils and regions with high rainfall). It can be rectified by spraying with magnesium sulphate (Epsom salts) as a foliar spray at the rate of 226g to 11.5 litres (8oz to 2½ gallon) of water. Using a wetting agent (half a teaspoon of washing up liquid) improves the effectiveness of spraying. Magnesium sulphate could be applied direct to the soil if the problem regularly occurs.

Apply at a rate of 65g per sq m (2oz per sq yd) in mid- spring. are particularly Choosing a planting site. Apples prefer a sheltered, frost- free position in full sun. You can still grow apples in frost prone areas, just choose later- flowering varieties or provide temporary protection in spring when apples are in blossom. Provide artificial or living windbreaks on exposed sites. Apples tolerate shade providing they receive half a day's sunshine in the growing season. Planting Plant when dormant from late autumn until early spring for bare- root stock; containerised plants can be planted at any time of year, though the dormant period is preferred. Apple Tree Pollination Advice. Pollination is the process of pollen from a same species tree being added to the flowers of another tree to start the fruit growing process. This comes about by the generous nature of bees, moths, butterflies, flies and also the wind. Fruit trees can sometimes fail to produce fruit.This is often caused by a pollination problem. We hope the following tips will be of help. Some types are Self- Fertile: This means they will produce fruit without the need of pollen from another tree.

You can plant this in the middle of nowhere and it will still produce fruit. Partially Self- Fertile: Will produce some fruit without the pollen of another tree but more fruit is produced with a pollination partner e.g. another tree of the same species . Apple Trees are divided into groups.The group a variety is in depends on when the plant flowers.A variety will produce fruit if pollinated with pollen from another tree in the same group or one group above or below it.eg Discovery is in group 3.It can be pollinated with another tree from either group2 3 or4. Flowering Crabs eg Malus Evereste are excellent pollinators as they flower for a long period. There are numerous varieties and the ones we supply are listed below in Red.The varieties in Black are ones we can source should you require that variety. Group 2 Howgate Wonder - Page 2 Howgate Wonder Results 9 to 15 of 15 4Likes Posts 4,176 Kind of bumping this thread, as I am now pretty likely to get one, but wondered if FB (although I havent seen him around since the update!!

)could advice on a suitable pollinator for them, pref a russett or dual purpose? Thanks for your help 4,471 Howgate Wonder is very fertile (officially part-self-fertile), often producing seedless fruits. With other apple trees or crab apples in nearby gardens, I don't think that you need to worry about a pollinator. Howgate Wonder flowers around mid-season, so most other apple varieties should have some flowering overlap. I'm not sure whether Howgate Wonder has enough scab or canker resistance to cope with the wetter coastal or Western areas. The scab spots on my apples are in the dry-ish East of the UK. It will be much worse the further West you are, due to heavier and more prolonged rainfall. In wetter areas, I would favour Annie Elizabeth as a slightly more scab and canker resistant substitute for Howgate Wonder, although Annie's fruit is easily blown off in windy autumn weather. 4,176 ok thanks for that advice. We have just got a new allotment, which the council have opened up, and its literally in a very woody and wild area, not alot of houses nearby.

The tree would be situated infront of the wooded, wildlife area, so well protected from rain/wind etc, although the allotment does slightly slope and it would be at the bottom. The ground itself is very rich and crumbly, not at all stoney and fairly neutral, although somewhat compacted through lack of use at the moment. Of course we would revise our plans should the area seem waterlogged for example. Thought its hard to judge as there has been very little rainfall lately. Therefore I suppose I could say ideally I would like a Howgate Wonder, however on your advice will look closely at the situation as the summer progresses. Looking around the area, (about a mile square) I cannot see any apple or crab apple trees at all. However we have a big plot and another apple tree would be nice. Thanks again

Question: What type of fruit or vegetable is a Howgate Wonder?
Answer: APPLE