gabardine - definition - What is ? What is ? gabardine definition : gabardine Gabardine is a tough, tightly woven fabric used to make suits, overcoats, trousers, uniforms, windbreakers, and other garments. ==Etymology== The word gabardine has been used to refer to a "dress, covering" at least since the 1590s. It has been used to mean "closely woven cloth" since 1904. ==Fabric== The fibre used to make the fabric is traditionally worsted wool, but may also be cotton, texturized polyester, or a blend. Gabardine is woven as a warp-faced steep or regular twill, with a prominent diagonal rib on the face and smooth surface on the back. Gabardine always has many more warp than weft yarns. Cotton gabardine is often used by bespoke tailors to make pocket linings for business suits, where the pocket's contents would quickly wear holes in the usual flimsy pocket lining material. Clothing made from gabardine is generally labeled as being suitable for dry cleaning only, as is typical for wool textiles.

Gabardine may also refer to the twill-weave used for gabardine fabric, or to a raincoat made of this fabric. ==History== Gabardine was invented in 1879 by Thomas Burberry, founder of the Burberry fashion house in Basingstoke, and patented in 1888. The original fabric was waterproofed before weaving and was worsted wool or worsted wool and cotton, tightly woven and water-repellent but more comfortable than rubberized fabrics. Burberry clothing of gabardine was worn by polar explorers, including Roald Amundsen, the first man to reach the South Pole, in 1911, and Ernest Shackleton, who led a 1914 expedition to cross Antarctica. A jacket made of this material was worn by George Mallory on his ill-fated attempt on Mount Everest in 1924. Gabardine was also used widely in the 1950s to produce colourful patterned casual jackets, trousers and suits. Companies like J. C. Penney, Sport Chief, Campus, Four Star, and California Trends were all producing short-waisted jackets, sometimes reversible, commonly known as weekender jackets.

==Notes== ==References== * Cumming, Valerie, C. W. Cunnington and P. E. Cunnington. The Dictionary of Fashion History, Berg, 2010, ISBN 978-1-84788-533-3 * Kadolph, Sara J., ed.: Textiles, 10th edition, Pearson/Prentice-Hall, 2007, ISBN 0-13-118769-4 * Picken, Mary Brooks: The Fashion Dictionary, Funk & Wagnalls, 1957. (1973 edition ISBN 0-308-10052-2) Category:Woven fabrics Gabardine | Rankly Gabardine Ranked #196 on the list Best Textiles of All Time 6.00 About Gabardine Web Link(s): Gabardine is a tough, tightly woven fabric used to make suits, overcoats, trousers, uniforms, windbreakers, and other garments. The word gabardine has been used to refer to a "dress, covering" since the 1950s.

It has been used to mean "closely woven cloth" since 1904. The fibre used to make the fabric is traditionally worsted wool, but may also be cotton, texturized polyester, or a blend. Gabardine is woven as a warp-faced steep or regular twill, with a prominent diagonal rib on the face and smooth surface on the back. Garbardine always has many more warp than weft yarns. Cotton gabardine is sometimes used by bespoke tailors to make pocket linings for business suits, where the pocket's contents would quickly wear holes in the usual flimsy pocket lining material. Clothing made from gabardine is generally labeled as being suitable for dry cleaning only, as is typical for wool textiles. Gabardine may also refer to the twill-weave used for gabardine fabric, or to a raincoat made of this fabric. Gabardine was invented in 1879 by Thomas Burberry, founder of the Burberry fashion house in Basingstoke, and patented in 1888.

The original fabric was water-proofed before weaving and was All about gabardine All about gabardine The following article was sourced from a Wikipedia page at the following address: GABARDINE gabardine_image1.jpg Gabardine Gabardine is a tough, tightly woven fabric used to make suits, overcoats, trousers, uniforms, windbreakers, and other garments. ETYMOLOGY The word gabardine has been used to refer to a "dress, covering" since the 1590s. It has been used to mean "closely woven cloth" since 1904. FABRIC The fibre used to make the fabric is traditionally worsted wool, but may also be cotton, texturized polyester, or a blend. Gabardine is woven as a warp-faced steep or regular twill, with a prominent diagonal rib on the face and smooth surface on the back. Gabardine always has many more warp than weft yarns. Cotton gabardine is many times used by bespoke tailors to make pocket linings for business suits, where the pocket's contents would quickly wear holes in the usual flimsy pocket lining material.

Clothing made from gabardine is generally labelled as being suitable for dry cleaning only, as is typical for wool textiles. Gabardine may also refer to the twill-weave used for gabardine fabric, or to a raincoat made of this fabric. HISTORY Burberry advertisement for waterproof gabardine suit, 1908 Gabardine was invented in 1879 by Thomas Burberry, founder of the Burberry fashion house in Basingstoke, and patented in 1888. The original fabric was waterproofed before weaving and was worsted or worsted/cotton, tightly woven and water-repellent but more comfortable than rubberized fabrics. The fabric takes its name from the word "gaberdine", originally a long, loose cloak or gown worn in the Middle Ages, but later signifying a rain cloak or protective smock-frock. Burberry clothing of gabardine was worn by polar explorers, including Roald Amundsen, the first man to reach the South Pole, in 1911, and Ernest Shackleton, who led a 1914 expedition to cross Antarctica.

A jacket made of this material was worn by George Mallory on his ill-fated attempt on Mount Everest in 1924. Gabardine was also used widely in the 1950s to produce colourful patterned casual jackets, trousers and suits. Companies like J. C. Penney, Sport Chief, Campus, Four Star, and California Trends were all producing short-waisted jackets, sometimes reversible, commonly known as weekender jackets. To read more about gabardine, please click on the following link: Wikipedia: Gabardine G Gabardine Gabardine is a tough, tightly woven fabric used to make suits , overcoats , trousers and other garments. The fibre used to make the fabric is traditionally worsted wool , but may also be cotton , synthetic or mixed. The fabric is smooth on one side and has a diagonally ribbed surface on the other. Gabardine is a form of twill weave. Cotton gabardine is sometimes used by bespoke tailors to make pocket linings for office-type suits where the pocket 's contents would quickly wear holes in the usual flimsy pocket lining material.

History The material was invented in the late 19th century by Thomas Burberry, founder of the Burberry fashion house in Basingstoke, and patented in 1888. The fabric takes its name from the gaberdine (with an 'e'), a long, loose overgarment tied at the waist. Burberry clothing of gabardine was worn by polar explorers including Roald Amundsen , the first man to reach the South Pole , in 1911, and Ernest Shackleton, who led a 1914 expedition to cross Antarctica . A jacket made of this material was worn by George Mallory on his ill-fated attempt on Mount Everest in 1924. Care instructions Depending on the type, gabardine is either dry cleaned, as most other wools, or is machine washable and dryable on a low cycle. A warm iron should be used for pressing; ironing it at a higher temperature would mark the fabric.

(Wikipedia) gabardine : definition of gabardine and synonyms of gabardine (English) 5 References Etymology The word gabardine has been used to refer to a "dress, covering" since the 1950s. It has been used to mean "closely woven cloth" since 1904. [1] Fabric The fibre used to make the fabric is traditionally worsted wool , but may also be cotton , texturized polyester , or a blend. Gabardine is woven as a warp -faced steep or regular twill , with a prominent diagonal rib on the face and smooth surface on the back. Garbardine always has many more warp than weft yarns. [2] [3] [4] Cotton gabardine is sometimes used by bespoke tailors to make pocket linings for business suits , where the pocket's contents would quickly wear holes in the usual flimsy pocket lining material.[ citation needed ] Clothing made from gabardine is generally labeled as being suitable for dry cleaning only, as is typical for wool textiles. Gabardine may also refer to the twill-weave used for gabardine fabric, or to a raincoat made of this fabric.

History Gabardine was invented in 1879 by Thomas Burberry , founder of the Burberry fashion house in Basingstoke , and patented in 1888. The original fabric was water-proofed before weaving and was worsted or worsted/cotton, tightly woven and water-repellant but more comfortable than rubberized fabrics. [3] The fabric takes its name from the word " gabardine ", originally a long, loose cloak or gown worn in the Middle Ages, but later signifying a rain cloak or protective smock-frock . [4] [5] Burberry clothing of gabardine was worn by polar explorers including Roald Amundsen , the first man to reach the South Pole , in 1911, and Ernest Shackleton , who led a 1914 expedition to cross Antarctica . A jacket made of this material was worn by George Mallory on his ill-fated attempt on Mount Everest in 1924. [6] Gabardine was also used widely in the 1950's to produce colourful patterned casual jackets, trousers and suits. Companies like: J. C.

Penneys, Sport Chief, Campus, Four Star, California Trends were all producing short waisted jackets, sometimes reversible, commonly known as weekender Jackets. These jackets, depending on pattern and rarity are highly sought after in the "Rockabilly" sub-cultures around the world. Notes Textile — fashion 0.0.1 documentation Chambray ¶ Chino ¶ Chino cloth is a twill fabric, originally made of 100% cotton. The most common items made from it, trousers, are widely called chinos. Today it is also found in cotton~synthetic blends. ![chino]( ) Developed in the mid~19th century for British and French military uniforms, it has since migrated into civilian wear. Trousers of such a fabric gained popularity in the U.S. when Spanish~American War veterans returned from the Philippines with their twill military trousers. Denim ¶ Denim is a sturdy cotton twill textile in which the weft passes under two or more warp threads. This twill weaving produces the familiar diagonal ribbing of the denim that distinguishes it from cotton duck.

![denim]( ) It is a characteristic of any indigo denim that only the warp threads are dyed, whereas the weft threads remain plain white. As a result of the warp~faced twill weaving, one side of the textile then shows the blue warp threads and the other side shows the white weft threads. This is why blue jeans are white on the inside. This type of dyeing also creates denim’s fading characteristics, which are unique compared to every other textile. Duck Canvas ¶ Cotton duck (from Dutch: doek, “linen canvas”), also simply duck, sometimes duck cloth or duck canvas, commonly called “canvas” outside the textile industry, is a heavy, plain woven cotton fabric. There is also linen duck, which is less often used. ![duck canvas]( ~content/uploads/2009/09/left~field~duck~canvas~chino~00.jpg ) Flannel ¶ Flannel is a soft woven fabric, of various fineness. Flannel was originally made from carded wool or worsted yarn, but is now often made from either wool, cotton, or synthetic fibre. Flannel may be brushed to create extra softness or remain unbrushed.

The brushing process is a mechanical process where a fine metal brush rubs the fabric to create fine fibers from the loosely spun yarns. Typically, flannel has either a single~ or double~sided nap. Double~napped flannel refers to a fabric that has been brushed on both sides. If the flannel is not napped, it gains its softness through the loosely spun yarn in its woven form. Flannel is commonly used to make tartan clothing, blankets, bed sheets, and sleepwear. Gabardine ¶ Gabardine is a tough, tight woven fabric. The fibre used to make the fabric is traditionally worsted wool, but may also be cotton, texturized polyester, or a blend. Gabardine is woven as a warp~faced steep or regular twill, with a prominent diagonal rib on the face and smooth surface on the back. Garbardine always has many more warp than weft yarns. Clothing made from gabardine is generally labeled as being suitable for dry cleaning only, as is typical for wool textiles.

Gabardine was invented in 1879 by Thomas Burberry, founder of the Burberry fashion house in Basingstoke, and patented in 1888. The original fabric was water~proofed before weaving and was worsted or worsted/cotton, tightly woven and water~repellant but more comfortable than rubberized fabrics.[3] The fabric takes its name from the word “gaberdine”, originally a long, loose cloak or gown worn in the Middle Ages, but later signifying a rain cloak or protective smock~frock.[4][5] Gabardine is used to make: ~ suits ~ overcoats ~ trousers ~ uniforms ~ windbreakers ![gabardine]( ) Gingham ¶ Gingham is a medium~weight balanced plain~woven fabric made from dyed cotton or cotton~blend yarn.[1] It is made of carded or combed, medium or fine yarns, where the colouring is on the warp yarns and always along the grain (weft). Gingham has no right or wrong side with respect to colour.

![gingham]( ) Oxford ¶ Oxford is a type of woven dress shirt fabric, employed to make a particular casual~to~formal cloth in Oxford shirts. ![oxford]( ) Satin ¶ Satin is a weave that typically has a glossy surface and a dull back. It is usually a warp~faced weaving technique in which warp yarns are “floated” over weft yarns, although there are also weft~faced satins.[2] If a fabric is formed with a satin weave using filament fibres such as silk, nylon, or polyester, the corresponding fabric is termed a satin, although some definitions insist that the fabric be made from silk.[3] If the yarns used are short~staple yarns such as cotton, the fabric formed is considered a sateen. ![satin]( ) Tweed ¶ Tweed is a rough, unfinished woollen fabric, of a soft, open, flexible texture, resembling cheviot or homespun, but more closely woven. It is made in either plain or twill weave and may have a check or herringbone pattern.

Subdued, interesting colour effects (heather mixtures) are obtained by twisting together differently coloured woollen strands into a two~ or three~ply yarn. ![tweed]( ) Tweeds are desirable for informal outerwear,[1] being moisture~resistant and durable. Tweeds are commonly worn for outdoor activities such as shooting and hunting, in both Ireland and the United Kingdom. “Lovat” is the name given to the green used in traditional Scottish tweed. In Ireland, tweed manufacturing is most associated with County Donegal in the Province of Ulster. Velvet ¶ Velvet is a type of woven tufted fabric in which the cut threads are evenly distributed, with a short dense pile, giving it a distinctive feel. Traditionally, velvet is associated with nobility. — Fleece is a general term for a soft fabric Examples of pile textiles are carpets, corduroy, velvet, plush, and Turkish towels.

Thomas Burberry - Documents Documents Share Thomas Burberry Embed <iframe src="" width="750" height="600" frameborder="0" marginwidth="0" marginheight="0" scrolling="no" style="border:1px solid #CCC; border-width:1px; margin-bottom:5px; max-width: 100%;" allowfullscreen> </iframe> <div style="margin-bottom:5px"> <strong> <a href="" title="Thomas Burberry" target="_blank">Thomas Burberry</a></div> size(px) Description Text Thomas Burberry (27 August 1835 - 4 April 1926) was the founder of Burberry, one of the United Kingdom's largest branded clothing businesses.

Thomas Burberry Born: 27 August 1835 Brockham Green Died :4 April 1926 (aged 90) Known for Burberry Religion Baptist Children 2 Career Born at Brockham Green near Dorking and educated at Brockham Green Village School, Thomas Burberry was apprenticed to a local draper's shop before he opened his outfitting business in Basingstoke in 1856.[1] Burberry recognised the need for promotion and publicity and ensured that Lord Kitchener and Lord Baden-Powell both wore his weatherproofs.[1] By these means he expanded his business into one of the United Kingdom's largest branded clothing businesses.[1] He retired to Abbot's Court near Weymouth, Dorset in 1917.[1] He was a teetotaler and campaigned against tobacco smoking.[1] He was also a devout baptist who liked to hold prayer meetings every morning.[2] He died at his home at Hook near Basingstoke in 1926. He married twice, first to Catherine Hannah Newman and second to Mary Marshall.[1] He had two sons.

History 1856 Thomas Burberry, a 21-year-old draper’s apprentice, opened a small outfitter’s shop in Basingstoke, Hampshire, England. 1870 A commitment to quality and innovation in fabric and outwear design earned Burberry a loyal following. By 1870, the shop had grown to an ‘emporium’. 1880 Gabardine – the breathable, weatherproof and tearproof fabric developed by Burberry – was introduced in 1880. 1891 Now trading as Thomas Burberry & Sons, the business opened a shop in the West End of London at 30 Haymarket. 1895 Burberry developed the Tielocken, the predecessor of the trench coat, which was adopted by British officers during the Boer War. 1901 The Equestrian Knight trademark appeared for the first time accompanied by the Latin word ‘Prorsum’, meaning forwards. 1911 Equipped by Burberry, the Norwegian explorer Captain Roald Amundsen became the first man to reach the South Pole.

1914 Commissioned by the War Office to adapt its earlier officer’s coat for new combat requirements, Burberry added epaulettes and ‘D’ rings, and the ‘trench coat’ was born. 1920 The Burberry Check, registered as a trademark, was introduced as a lining to the trench coat in the 1920s. 1955 Burberry was awarded a Royal Warrant by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. 1989 A second Royal Warrant was granted to Burberry in 1989 by HRH The Prince of Wales. 2002 Burberry launched its exclusive ‘Art of the Trench’ made to order trench coat service. Today Burberry is an internationally recognised luxury brand with a worldwide distribution network.

Type Public company Traded as LSE: BRBY Industry Fashion Founded Basingstoke, United Kingdom (1856) Headquarters London, United Kingdom Key people John Peace, (Chairman) Angela Ahrendts, (CEO) Christopher Bailey, (CCO) Products Clothing Accessories Perfumes Revenue £1,279.9 billion (2011)[1] Operating income £171.1 million (2011)[1] Net income £82.2 million (2011)[1] Website burberry.com Burberry Group plc (LSE: BRBY) is a British luxury fashion house, manufacturing clothing, fragrance, and fashion accessories. Its distinctive tartan pattern has become one of its most widely copied trademarks. Burberry is most famous for its iconic trench coat, which was invented by founder Thomas Burberry. The company has branded stores and franchises around the world, and also sells through concessions in third-party stores. HM Queen Elizabeth II and HRH The Prince of Wales have granted the company Royal Warrants. The Chief Creative Officer is Christopher Bailey. The company is listed on the London Stock Exchange and is a constituent of the FTSE 100 Index.

Early years, 19th century Burberry was founded in 1856 when 21-year-old Thomas Burberry, a former draper's apprentice, opened his own store in Basingstoke, Hampshire, England.[3] By 1870, the business had established itself by focusing on the development of outdoors attire.[3] In 1880, Burberry introduced in his brand the gabardine, a hardwearing, water-resistant yet breathable fabric, in which the yarn is waterproofed before weaving.[3] Burberry was the original name, but then the company soon switched to using the name Burberrys, after many customers from around the world began calling it Burberrys of London. This name is still visible on many older Burberry products. In 1891, Burberry opened a shop in the Haymarket, London, which still exists and until recently was the site of Burberry’s corporate headquarters. Now the headquarters are at Horseferry House just behind Houses of Parliament, Westminster (London).

20th century In 1901, the Burberry Equestrian Knight Logo was developed containing the Latin word "Prorsum", meaning forwards, and registered as a trademark.[3] In 1911 they became the outfitters for Roald Amundsen,[3] the first man to reach the South Pole, and Ernest Shackleton, who led a 1914 expedition to cross Antarctica. A Burberry gabardine jacket was worn by George Mallory on his ill-fated attempt on Mount Everest in 1924. In 1914 Burberry was commissioned by the War Office to adapt its officer's coat to suit the conditions of contemporary warfare, resulting in the "trench coat".[3] After the war, the trench coat became popular with civilians. The iconic Burberry check was created in the 1920s and used as a lining in its trench coats.[3] Burberry also specially designed aviation garments. A. E. Clouston and Mrs Betsy Kirby Green made the fastest flying time to Cape Town from London in 1937 and were sponsored by Burberry.

Recent history Burberry was an independent company until 1955, when it was taken over by Great Universal Stores (GUS). Burberry Group plc was initially floated on the London Stock Exchange in July 2002.[4] GUS divested its remaining interest in Burberry in December 2005.[5] In 2006 Rose Marie Bravo, who as Chief Executive had led Burberry to mass market success, retired.[6] She was replaced by current CEO Angela Ahrendts. Burberry first began selling online in the US, followed by the UK in October 2006, and the rest of the EU in 2007 UK image and revitalisation During the 1970s, the brand became popular with the British casual cult, leading to it to being associated with chavs and members of football firms by the 1990s.[8][9] Such a shift in a brand's clientele exemplifies prole drift.

However, Burberry has attempted to rebrand itself with advertisements in GQ, Esquire, Vogue, Tatler and Harper's Bazaar, and is well-known for using British celebrities in its advertising, including models Kate Moss, Agyness Deyn, Jourdan Dunn and Lily Donaldson, singer George Craig, and actress Emma Watson, who was named the face of Burberry's 2009 Fall/Winter campaign and the cover model for the 2010 Spring/Summer campaign Brands Burberry operates under 5 brands:[12]        Burberry London: The primary brand, used for the vast majority of products Burberry Brit Burberry Prorsum Burberry Sport Thomas Burberry Burberry Black Label, men (in japan & hongkong, 2011 only) Burberry Blue Label, ladies (in japan & hongkong, 2011 only) 1856 - Thomas Burberry (21), former apprentice to a country draper, opened an outfitters shop in Basingstoke, Hampshire, England (above); 1880 - invented gabardine, breathable fabric, yarn

 waterproofed before weaving; 1924 - Burberry Check (red, camel, black, white check - known as the 'Nova'), introduced as lining for wet weather attire, registered as a trademark.

( Gabardine is a tough, tightly woven fabric used to make suits, overcoats, trousers uniforms, and other garments. The fibre used to make the fabric is traditionally worsted wool, but may also be cotton, texturized polyester, or a blend. Gabardine is woven as a warp-faced steep or regular twill, with a prominent diagonal rib on the face and smooth surface on the back. Garbardine always has many more warp than filling yarns.[1][2][3] Cotton gabardine is sometimes used by bespoke tailors to make pocket linings for business suits, where the pocket's contents would quickly wear holes in the usual flimsy pocket lining material.[citation needed] Clothing made from gabardine is generally labeled as being suitable for dry cleaning only, as is typical for wool textiles. Gabardine may also refer to the twill-weave used for gabardine fabric, or to a raincoat made of this fabric. Gabardine was invented in 1879 by Thomas Burberry, founder of the Burberry fashion house in Basingstoke, and patented in 1888.

The original fabric was water-proofed before weaving and was worsted or worsted/cotton, tightly woven and water-repellant but more comfortable than rubberized fabrics.[2] The fabric takes its name from the word "gaberdine, gabardine", originally a long, loose cloak or gown worn in the Middle Ages, but later signifying a rain cloak or protective smock-frock.[3][4] Burberry clothing of gabardine was worn by polar explorers including Roald Amundsen, the first man to reach the South Pole, in 1911, and Ernest Shackleton, who led a 1914 expedition to cross Antarctica. A jacket made of this material was worn by George Mallory on his ill-fated attempt on Mount Everest in 1924.[5 A trench coat or trenchcoat is a raincoat made of waterproof heavy-duty cotton drill or poplin, wool gabardine, or leather. It generally has a removable insulated lining; and it is usually knee-length. The trench coat was developed as an alternative to the heavy serge greatcoats worn by British and French soldiers in the First World War.

Invention of the trench coat is claimed by both Burberry and Aquascutum, with Aquascutum's claim dating back to the 1850s. Thomas Burberry, the inventor of gabardine fabric, submitted a design for an army officer's raincoat to the United Kingdom War Office in 1901.[1][2] The trench coat became an optional item of dress in the British Army, and was obtained by private purchase by officers and Warrant Officers Class I who were under no obligation to own them.[3] No other ranks were permitted to wear them. Another optional item was the British Warm, a wool coat similar to the greatcoat that was shorter in length, also worn by British officers and Warrant Officers Class I as an optional piece. During the First World War, the design of the trenchcoat was modified to include shoulder straps and D-rings. The shoulder straps were for the attachment of epaulettes or other rank insignia; There is a popular myth that the D-ring was for the attachment of hand grenades. The ring was originally for map cases and swords or other equipment to the belt. This latter pattern was dubbed "trench coat" by the soldiers in the front line.

Many veterans returning to civilian life kept the coats that became fashionable for both men and women. During the Second World War, officers of the United Kingdom continued to use the trench coat on the battlefield in inclement weather. Other nations also developed trench coat style jackets, notably the United States and Soviet Union, and other armies of continental Europe such as France, Germany, Holland, Poland (and are often seen in war zone photographs in the 1939-40 era, even worn by troops on the attack), although as the war progressed, in the field shorter "field jackets" became more popular, including garments such as the Denison smock used by British commandos, paratroopers, and snipers and the M1941/M1943 field jackets used by the US Army. These garments were shorter and more practical than the trench coat, and as such they allowed the wearer to be more mobile.[4] A typical trench coat by this period was a ten-buttoned, double-breasted long coat made with tan, khaki, beige, or black fabric. Trench coats often have cuff straps on the raglan sleeves, shoulder straps and a belt.

The trench coat was typically worn as a windbreaker or as a rain jacket, and not for protection from the cold in winter or snowy conditions. Trench coats have remained fashionable in the decades following World War II . Their original role as part of an army officer's uniform lent the trench coat a businesslike respectability, whilst fictional heroes as diverse as the Tenth Doctor, Dick Tracy, Mike Hammer, Jack Harkness, The Crow, The Phantom, Humphrey Bogart's Rick Blaine from Casablanca[5] and Peter Sellers' Inspector Clouseau kept the coat in the public eye. Usually, a fedora or an ushanka (during colder weather) was also worn. In the 1960s, some Mods wore trenchcoats as fashionable overcoats, as an alternative to the fishtail parka or crombie. The heavy metal and Goth fashion trend of black oilcloth dusters are usually referred to as trench coats.[6] Early media reports of the Columbine High School massacre initially associated the perpetrators with members of the "Trenchcoat Mafia", a group of outcasts who allegedly wore conspicuous black Australian oilcloth dusters. In the copycat W. R.

Myers High School shooting days later, the shooter wore a trench coat. In the wake of these incidents, several schools forbade students to wear trench coats, on the grounds that the long coats could be used to conceal weapons. Name:Thomas Burberry About: the designers Thomas Burberry was born in 1835 in Dorking Surrey, UK. He trained as an apprentice to a draper. In 1856, he opened his own drapery business, called T. Burberry and Sons, in Basingstoke, Hampshire. Business thrived and by 1870 Burberry became known as an "emporium" with an increased focus on the development of outdoor wear for local residents and visiting sportsmen who frequented the store. Thomas Burberry invented gabardine; a breathable fabric made using an innovative process where the yarn was waterproofed before weaving. This fabric was not only water-resistant but also extremely durable. A patent was taken out in 1888. In 1891, Burberry established a wholesale business in London. In 1891 Thomas Burberry opened his first shop at the Haymarket, now the site of Burberry’s corporate headquarters.

The officer’s Tielocker Coat, designed by Burberry in the 1899’s, was the forerunner to today’s trench coat. The Burberry Equestrian Knight logo was developed and registered as a trademark in 1901. In 1902, Burberry established "Gabardine" as a trademark and in 1909, the "Burberry" was registered as a trademark for the company's coats. During World War I Burberry designed coats for the British Royal Flying Corps (later the RAF). The military style model of the Burberry became the Trench coat of the First World War. It has a deep back yoke, epaulets, buckled cuff straps, a button-down storm flap on one shoulder and storm pockets. After the war, the Trench coat was absorbed into civilian life. Known as a "Burberry" it has been copied worldwide. The Burberry Check, registered as a trademark, was introduced as a lining to the trench coat in the 1920’s. In the 60's Burberry made a stab at the fashion scene, and the famous check was seen on umbrellas, luggage and scarves.

Their plaid is now one of the most recognized in the world. In the 1980's, the company started to revitalize its brands and trademarks. This was accompanied by retail expansion, opening stores in New York and other major cities. All major stars and celebrities have worn Burberry trench coats. Audrey Hepburn wore one in "Breakfast in Tiffany's". Burberry was first awarded the Royal Warrant from Her Majesty The queen in 1955. A further Royal Warrant was awarded in 1989 by His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales. He died in 1926 at the age of 91. textile printing Textile printing is the process of applying colour to fabric in definite patterns or designs. In properly printed fabrics the colour is bonded with the fiber, so as to resist washing and friction. Textile printing is related to dyeing but, whereas in dyeing proper the whole fabric is uniformly covered with one colour, in printing one or more colours are applied to it in certain parts only, and in sharply defined patterns. In printing, wooden blocks, stencils, engraved plates, rollers, or silkscreens are used to place colours on the fabric.

Colourants used in printing contain dyes thickened to prevent the colour from spreading by capillary attraction beyond the limits of the pattern or design. Traditional textile printing techniques may be broadly categorised into four styles:     Direct printing, in which colourants containing dyes, thickeners, and the mordants or substances necessary for fixing the colour on the cloth are printed in the desired pattern. The printing of a mordant in the desired pattern prior to dyeing cloth; the color adheres only where the mordant was printed. Resist dyeing, in which a wax or other substance is printed onto fabric which is subsequently dyed. The waxed areas do not accept the dye, leaving uncoloured patterns against a coloured ground. Discharge printing, in which a bleaching agent is printed onto previously dyed fabrics to remove some or all of the colour. Resist and discharge techniques were particularly fashionable in the 19th century, as were combination techniques in which indigo resist was used to create blue backgrounds prior to block-printing of other colours.[1] Most modern industrialised printing uses direct printing techniques.

Preparation of cloth for printing Goods intended for calico printing ought to be exceptionally well-bleached, otherwise mysterious stains, and other serious defects, are certain to arise during subsequent operations. The chemical preparations used for special styles will be mentioned in their proper places; but a general prepare, employed for most colours that are developed and fixed by steaming only, consists in passing the bleached calico through a weak solution of sulfated or turkey red oil containing from 21/2 per cent, to 5 per cent, of fatty acid. Some colours are printed on pure bleached cloth, but all patterns containing alizarine red, rose and salmon shades, are considerably brightened by the presence of oil, and indeed very few, if any, colours are detrimentally affected by it. Apart from wet preparations the cloth has always to be brushed, to free it from loose nap, flocks and dust that it picks up whilst stored. Frequently, too, it has to be sheared by being passed over rapidly revolving knives arranged spirally round an axle, which rapidly and effectually cuts off all filaments and knots, leaving the cloth perfectly smooth and clean and in a condition fit to receive impressions of the most delicate engraving.

Some figured fabrics, especially those woven in checks, stripes and crossovers, require very careful stretching and straightening on a special machine, known as a stenter, before they can be printed with certain formal styles of pattern which are intended in one way or another to correspond with the cloth pattern. Finally, all descriptions of cloth are wound round hollow wooden or iron centers into rolls of convenient size for mounting on the printing machines. Preparation of colours The art of making colours for textile printing demands both chemical knowledge and extensive technical experience, for their ingredients must not only be properly proportioned to each other, but they must be specially chosen and compounded for the particular style of work in hand. For a pattern containing only one colour any mixture whatever may he used so long as it fulfils all conditions as to shade, quality and fastness; but where two or more colours are associated in the same design each must be capable of undergoing without injury the various operations necessary for the development and fixation of the others. All printing pastes whether containing colouring matter or not are known technically as colours, and are referred to as such in the sequence. Colours vary considerably in composition.

The greater number of them contain all the elements necessary for the direct production and fixation of the colour-lake. Some few contain the colouring matter alone and require various after-treatments for its fixation; and others again are simply mordants thickened. A mordant is the metallic salt or other substance that combines with the colouring principle to form an insoluble colour-lake, either directly by steaming, or indirectly by dyeing. All printing colours require thickening, for the twofold object of enabling them to be transferred from colour-box to cloth without loss and to prevent them from running or spreading beyond the limits of the pattern. English Cloths Learn More — Huddersfield Formerly Lockwood This is a traditional full blooded cloth that encapsulates everything for which cloth made in England is regarded. Defined through her conventional 2/2 twill construction, yet both luxurious and elegant through a smooth consistent handle in her core. These cloths are defined by being extremely comfortable to wear and will require the minimum of maintenance over the years. Our collection offers a selection of classic and modern designs as well as several "traditional classics' ideal for the Modern and Classic Tailor.

These world renowned cloths are ideally suited for both spring and winter alike, at the entry level of the Super grades, the yarn in this cloth comes from Merino sheep in Australia, Tasmania, and New Zealand. Only the purest yarns are selected to produce the optimum S100 cloth. Formerly Linthwaite S120s There are a variety of cloth materials in the market - wool, cashmere, vicuna etc. And blends thereof. But for the majority, and most widely-used cloth in the business, from a classic “Wool Worsteds” standpoint is the Super 120s & Cashmere. This is the main cloth bespoke customers need to know about. Made from Merino wool (which usually means Australian and New Zealand Merino sheep), this cloth surpasses time, its elegant feel, colours and construction Our super 120's & Cashmere quickly became one of our most successful ranges ever. It aimlessly bridges the gap between luxury and wear-ability. Proudly these cloths can really be 'really put to work' day in day out. Constructed from a traditional 2/2 twill, with an embodied finish to enhance her warm handle.

An elegant fabric from this range will ensure that the wearer always looks there best. The plain cloth’s in this collection are ideal for summer weight Kandura, Thobe, Thawb or dishdasha, these cloths lend themselves to an elegant drape and shine, with durability built into every fibre. Formerly Aimbry A comprehensive range of ultra-sartorial Jacketing cloths made in Huddersfield, the home of the world’s finest cloths. A collection of magnificent 9oz (280g) Jacketings in Super 100s merino Wool. Woven from highly spun yarns, to capture resilience and shape, these cloths are ideal for casual and business wearers alike In over 50 captivating designs – these cloths are formulated to demonstrate their unmistakable flair.These magnificent cloths have a superb handle. Both soft to the touch and providing warmth without weight. Suitable for year round wear a stunning choice. The sports jacket is one of the best, most versatile items a man can have in his wardrobe. Choosing a cloth from this collection is the ideal partner of choice.

Formerly Gabardine Gabardine was invented in 1879 by Thomas Burberry, founder of the Burberry fashion house in Basingstoke, and patented in 1888. The original fabric was waterproofed before weaving and was worsted wool or worsted wool and cotton, tightly woven and water-repellant but more comfortable than rubberized fabrics. Today’s modern Gabardine fabric takes its name from the word "gaberdine", originally a long, loose cloak or gown worn in the Middle Ages, but later signifying a rain cloak or protective smock-frock Burberry clothing of gabardine was worn by polar explorers, including Roald Amundsen, the first man to reach the South Pole, in 1911, and Ernest Shackleton, who led a 1914 expedition to cross Antarctica. A jacket made of this material was worn by George Mallory on his ill-fated attempt on Mount Everest in 1924. Our English Gabardine collection in contrast is used widely to produce colourful patterned casual jackets, trousers and suits. A lightweight tough, tightly woven fabric, used very often for Kandora, Thobe, Dishdasha.

Formerly Marsden Combed cloth in pure S130s merino wool. Blended with a touch of cashmere. This suiting cloth is at the upper end of every day wearing. I lends itself to the heirs to the British throne, given it’s a staple choice for many a Savile Row tailor of distinction. Nowadays this material is a must for daytime business suits or informal luncheon wear. Nearly all Suit guides will talk about the fit of the suit – how the cloth should drape from your shoulders. The Super 130 is the perfect weight to do so, the elegance and stance of this cloth makes even the most discerning of suit wearers look at their best. Our collection covers both classic and modern tastes, so whether you want to stand out subtly or make that statement of choice, this collection will never disappoint. See the styles available today. Formerly Attraction The Superior Fancy Jacketing range really comes to life at night, or when you want to make a real difference in your own personal Styling – as we know suit jacket comes with a pair of matching pants. However this range lends itself to the independent wearer, for those of us that want to make a subtle but charismatic statement.

Lots of young, stylish actors and fashion designers favour wearing a slim, dark suit jacket with a pair of jeans. The modern trend is to a more casual suit jackets, such as fancy patterns, corduroys or tweeds, these styles can be called moonlighting as they separate the individual from the norm, in a far greater way than pin-striped jacket would. Formerly Cool Wool Typically thought of as a modern concept due to its elaborate designs – However is in fact a style of weaving that can be dated back to thousands of years ago – traditionally called a Basket weave you can guess the rest. In a panama cloth, groups of warp and weft threads are interlaced so that they form a simple criss-cross pattern. Each group of weft threads crosses an equal number of warp threads by going over one group, then under the next, and so on. The next group of weft threads goes under the warp threads that its neighbour went over, and vice versa. A true Panama can be identified by its checkered appearance, made of two or more threads in each group. The modern Panama cool wool cloth may also refer to a lightweight or midweight woollen fabric made using this weave.

It is soft and loose, with a fine, grainy surface, used for men's and women's suits. The name of the fabric directly relates to the straw weave used in a Panama hat. Formerly Linthwaite S150s One word “Luxury” describes these cloths the best. Whether it’s a suit of distinction, a Kandura or Thawb (Thaub, Thobe) of elegance and statement. Made from the finest quality Super 150s Yarn, and combed with cashmere, this cloth is the epitome of luxury and elegance. Stunning dazzling tones sit alongside exquisite plain shades. The contrast creating an air unsurpassed for the wearer Made in Huddersfield England, this prestigious fabric is constructed with 16.0 micron merino wool, in a wonderful basket weave design, enabling the wearer to feel cool in high temperature or warm in a cooler climate. This classic suiting range at 9oz (280gm) has a luxurious handle and is ideal for all year round wear. Formerly Lindley Affordable Luxury. British to the core.

A traditional selection of S100s luxury wool designs, developed for everyday use, this versatile range makes the perfect business or evening attire - long lasting and stylish, her drape is unsurpassed in this weight. Opulent luxury at its best – a fully rounded and resiliant cloth this tightly woven super 100’s offer the optimum in luxury cloths to tailors and clients alike. No other cloth captures the backbone of Huddersfield as these do, classy, comfortable, once worn there is no turning back. Formerly Castle Hill Superfine English Plains – simply has to be the most elaborate range of plain colours available in todays market, suitable for both Kandura (Thobe, Dishdasha) and Suiting alike. This stunning panama range is the bigger sister of our Tropical collection, her plush soft luxurious finish guarantees a drape of elegance and sophistication. Made from the very finest merino wool, in a light 335g weight – this faille cloth is created to breath easily via its dedicated 1x1 panama basket weave design; functioning to meet the requirements of both Suit and Kandura wearer alike. The traditional Arab wear of Kandura, demands the highest quality possible.

Kandura covers the whole body from neck to the ankle. One of the most interesting factors in Kandura is that it is suitable for both the extremes, hot and cold. As well as a traditional dress, Kandura also navigates us through the Great Holy culture of Arabia. The Tradition itself would be Incomplete without it. The majority of the Arabian land is deserted and the Kandura protects the body from the deserted weather conditions. Formerly Scissett MOHAIR is in many tailors opinions one of the most beautiful types of cloth there is. “Mohair” refers to the fibre of the hair of the Angora goat, the goat being named after the Turkish capital of Ankara, which was historically known as Angora. The Mohair goat traditionally has a white fleece but due to clever breeding they can now be found naturally in black, grey, red and brownish colours. With curly long hair the Angora goat is regrettably mistake often for a sheep, however the two are not directly related. Traditionally, Mohair comes in two qualities: Mohair and Kid Mohair. The latter is obtained from a younger goat that delivers a finer, less coarse Mohair fibre.

The best quality is ‘Summer Kid Mohair’ using only the softest fibres from the very first shearing of a mohair goat. The cloth of choice for tuxedos because of its natural lustre and wrinkle resistance. Just ask Mr Bond. It’s been his fabric of choice in ever film since conception. No matter whether it is a tuxedo or tailcoat, rest assured you will cut a remarkable figure if you make the same choice Formerly High Twist What goes around comes around. Without the patterns of the past, modern ideas could not come to pass. Our vintage collection captures the spirit of our past. Whether that’s the 1930s, 1940s, or 1950s these fabrics are designed to capture the spirit and imagination of yesteryear. In a general 4 season weight our high twist yarn gives his collection a unique handle. Its Tweed look without the harsh touch compels the wearer to think Country Side, and is ideal for all aspects of modern tailoring business and country styles alike. This collection is full of character, the autumn colours it boasts captures ones imagination, in terms of creating that ideal statement piece.

Formerly Magdale The perfect balance between heritage and modern designs. Have Tweeds ever looked so good? Combining Country checks and combination weave herringbones, these designs have been authentically crafted to grant the wearer stability and freshness These cloths are used in Jacketing and Coating, for both the individual who wants to stand out from the crowd and the equestrian who wants to make that statement. This world renowned country jacketing and suiting range with weights from 17oz–22oz (430g–700g). has been appreciated for many generations as the ultimate thorn proof fabric. Ideal for a wide range of country pursuits. Each piece is finished using our famous soft Yorkshire water that permeates down from the Pennine Hills to the bore hole at our finishers here in Huddersfield England Formerly Formal Occasion In terms of looking your best amongst the social elite nothing is better suited than our English Formal Wear collection - formal wear or formal dress (as the general terms goes in the UK) is clothing suitable for formal social events, such as a wedding, formal garden party or dinner, débutante cotillion or dance.

The Western style of formal evening dress is nearly always characterised by black and white garments and has spread through many countries over the decades; it is almost always the standard formal social dress in countries without a formal national costume. A dress code is a set of rules governing a certain combination of clothing; some examples are black tie and morning dress. Formal dress is the grouping of all the dress codes which govern clothes worn to formal events. The traditional rules that govern men's formal dress are strictly observed; from these derive the evening dress variants worn on many occasions, such as high school prom dances, formal dances, and entertainment industry award programs. Formerly Folly Hall Tradition and values are the staple diet of any establish environment - blending innovation with tradition, this 13/14oz cloth comes in a selection of stylish checks, traditional pin astripes, rope stripes, birdseyes and plains, enhanced in her finishing to capture rich, deep tones and a fuller-bodied finish. The nap of the cloth has been left longer to create that ideal milled finish, adding a touch of softness. She is the perfect choice for everyday business wear or casual jacket wearing. The Classical Mill collection captures the epitome of British elegance, with timeless appeal.

The very best in British classic. Rule Britannia. Formerly New Mill Quintessentially, the staple diet of suiting in a modern business arena. A suit in this cloth will literally last the wearer a lifetime. Whilst designer fads tend to shift quickly, causing the suit and its wearer to appear dated and out-of-touch, a traditional suit remains elegant and stylish, its useful life tracked in years or decades. First impressions are incredibly powerful, and so it becomes obvious that the colour of one’s suit isn’t a decision to make lightly. This collection of classic designs in a light to medium weight format, is the ideal choice for that suit that is needed time and time again. Within all the variations, one of the key deciding factors on which particular cloth choice to make is one’s individual colouring, a combination of hair and eye colour as well as skin tone. Our vast collection of colours and styles is in keeping with classic England, the classical styles that have influence cloth makers worldwide.

Question: What tough, tightly woven fabric used to make suits, overcoats, trousers and other garments, traditionally made from worsted wool fibre, was patented by Thomas Burberry in 1888?
Answer: Gabardine