EVOLUTION OF CRICKET BAT - crickettamasha crickettamasha EVOLUTION OF CRICKET BAT: FROM SRILANKAN CRICKETERS WIFE/ GIRL FREINDS/ COUPLES Cricket is often called as a game dominated by batsmen. The advent of formats like ODI and Twenty20 has further added to the woes of bowlers. The field restrictions, the free hit goes all against the bowlers. The justifications point to the only idea to make the game more entertaining. Its true that the crowd cheers more when a batsman hit the ball for a boundary or a six than when a bowler takes a wicket. Let now talk about the origin or the evolution or the instrument called a bat in cricket. The shape of the initial bat was like a hockey stick to facilitate hitting the ball which used to be delivered underarm. After the law of the game allowed the bowlers to loop the ball in the air underarm, the transition began to happen to the shape of the cricket bat. This led to vertical swing by the batsman rather than horizontal sweeping as the ball started to bounce.

It was only in the year 1820 when the law permitted round arm bowling, the shape of bat started to take the modern form. Having reached the present shape, the size of the bat became an apple of discord. It went to the extent of players resorting to high width bats and one even to the size of stumps perfectly protecting the wickets. This happened by a player named Shock White playing for Ryegate against Hambleton in 1771.To end such unsportsmanlike like activities, Hambledon’s recommendation that the size of the bat can be only maximum four and quarter inches was universally accepted. This led to change in batting techniques and batsmen started playing both vertical and horizontals shots instead of going only for horizontal wild swings. With the changed shape of the bat, experimentation went on to choose the right quality of wood which can withstand the strokes of the hard cricket ball having the desired resilience. English Willow or the Salix Alba Caerulea was the initial choice for being resilient. Such bats were comparatively lighter of the time but used to weigh up to a massive five pounds. Necessity is the mother on invention. Hence the search was to find better options.

English bat manufacturer M/S C.C.Bussey started using sapwood which happened to be lighter and attractive. Subsequently, the bat manufacturers started using white willows which proved to be much lighter. These bats were thinner and of straight. The blades used to carry more weight. The handle and the length were smaller. The weight of the bats was between two pounds to two pounds four ounces. With such changes in the shape of bats, the techniques of batting underwent changes. Improvisations like cuts, late cuts, leg glances, gliding were visible. In other words, timing of the ball became more evident than sere power hitting. But again in the late 1920s saw use of heavier bats by players of the calibre of Sir Don Bradman, Jak Hobbs, Bill Ponsford. While Bradman used to prefer bats weighing about two pounds and two ounces, Ponsford used much heavier bat weighing two pounds and nine ounces. His bat was called “Big Bertha” bat. The willow of these bats were subjected to heavy compression during manufacturing. The shape of cricket bats remained almost similar from 1890.

Use of golf putters with perimeter and Super Scoop bats with bigger hollow of the back were also experimented during these periods From the year 1960 onwards, some players like Clive Lloyd, Graeme Pollock started using heavier bats weighing more than three pounds. We all know how Clive Lloyd used to hit sixers at will. But such heavy bats put bottlenecks for many players to cuts, leg glance, hooks. A player to cite here is Garfield Sobers who always played with a lighter bat. Sachin Tendulkar however uses a heavy bat weighing more than three pounds. His bat has a standard short handle size with large profiles and extremely thick edges. The cricket bat has thus changed with the changing needs of the game. Every bat manufacturer innovated newer methods by careful design of scoops, hollow, plugs, etc. The game of cricket is gaining popularity across the Globe. In countries like India and Pakistan, it is no less than a religion. The game is rapidly changing with the demand of time. Money is pouring in to the game because of its increasing popularity. The need is power hitting without compromising manoeuvrability and improvisation to score fast. A new addition to the categories of bat is Mongoose bat.

MCC Law Sub-Committee has given green signal for use of this bat. The bat is especially made for T-20 format of the game. But its acceptability has been limited. Mathew Hayden was seen using this bat during IPL-3. To talk about Mongoose bats, here are a few facts: 1. The Mongoose bats are an evolution to the conventional ones which are used regularly, as these have a longer handle and a shorter blade. The Mongoose’s blade is 33% shorter and its handle 43% longer than a regular bat. 2. The bats are a boost to players in T20 cricket as they allow the player to hit harder and further without changing the way of playing. According to a study by the Imperial College, the bat offers batsmen 20% more power and 15% more bat-speed than a conventional bat. 3. Due to the change in the configuration of the bat, the splice, which is generally placed inside the blade, has now been fixed into the handle to ensure there is no dead spot in the hitting area of the bat. 4. The shoulders of the bat are also rearranged by dropping them nine inches down their previous position.

About 20 per cent of the weight is taken from the shoulders and redistributed to the back of the shorter blade. 5. The Mongoose made its first class debut in England’s domestic competition, the Twenty20 Cup. The current Law-6 of cricket by Marylebone Cricket Club( MCC) who frames cricket laws to ensure uniformity and fairness Worldwide stipulates that: “The bat is no more than 38 inches (97 cm) in length, and no more than 4.25 inches (10.8 cm) wide. The hand or glove holding the bat is considered part of the bat. Ever since the Heavy Metal incident, a highly publicized marketing attempt by Dennis Lillee who brought out an aluminium bat during an international game, the laws have provided that the blade of the bat must be made of wood (and in practice, they are made from White Willow wood).” With passage of time, the game of cricket like anything and everything in this World is bound to change. So also the Laws of the game and of course the size and shape of the cricket bat. Lets hope for the best that the materials to manufacture the bat do not change. Or else, it may no longer be called cricket.

The Laws of Cricket The Ball. - 1. Must weigh not less than five ounces and a half, nor more than five ounces and three-quarters. It must measure not less than nine inches, nor more than nine inches and one quarter in circumference. At the beginning of each innings either party may call for a new ball. The Bat. - 2. Must not exceed four and a quarter inches in the widest part; it must not be more than thirty-eight inches in length. The Stumps - 3. Must be three in number; twenty-seven inches out of the ground; the bails eight inches in length, the stumps of sufficient and equal thickness to prevent the ball from passing through. The Bowling Crease - 4. Must be in a line with the stumps; six feet eight inches in length, the stumps in the centre, with a return crease at each end towards the bowler at right angles. The Popping Crease - 5. Must be four feet from the wicket, and parallel to it; unlimited in length, but not shorter than the bowling crease. The Wickets - 6. Must be pitched opposite to each other by the umpires, at the distance of twenty-two yards. 7.

It shall not be lawful for either party during a match, without the consent of the other, to alter the ground by rolling, watering, covering, mowing, or beating, except at the commencement of each innings, when the ground may be swept and rolled at the request of either party, such request to be made to one of the umpires within one minute after the conclusion of the former innings. This rule is not meant to prevent the striker from beating the ground with his bat near to the spot where he stands during the innings, nor to prevent the bowler from filling up holes with sawdust, etc., when the ground is wet. 8. After rain the wickets may be changed with consent of both parties. The Bowler - 9. Shall deliver the ball with one foot on the ground behind the bowling crease and within the return crease, and shall bowl four balls before he change wickets; which he shall be permitted to do only once in the same innings. 10. The ball must be bowled. If thrown or jerked, the umpire shall call, "No ball." 11.

He may require the striker at the wicket from which he is bowling to stand on that side of it which he may direct. 12. If the bowler shall toss the ball over the striker's head, or bowl it so wide that in the opinion of the umpire it shall not be fairly within the reach of the batsman, he shall adjudge one run to the party receiving the innings, either with or without an appeal, which shall be put down to the score of "wide balls;" such ball shall not be reckoned as one of the four balls; but if the batsman shall by any means bring himself within reach of the ball, the run shall not be adjudged. 13. If the bowler deliver a "no ball" or a "wide ball," the striker shall be allowed as many runs as he can get, and he shall not be put out except by running out. In the event of no run being obtained by any other means, then one run shall be added to the score of "no balls" or "wide balls" as the case may be.

All runs obtained for "wide balls" to be scored to "wide balls." The names of the bowlers who bowl "wide balls" or "no balls" in future to be placed on the score, to show the parties by whom either score is made. If the ball shall first touch any part of the striker's dress or person (except his hands), the umpire shall call "Leg bye." 14. At the beginning of each innings the umpire shall call "Play;" from that time to the end of each innings no trial ball shall be allowed to any bowler. 15. If either of the balls be bowled off, or if a stump be bowled out of the ground; 16. Or, if the ball, from the stroke of the bat or hand, but not the wrist, be held before it touch the ground, although it be hugged to the body of the catcher; 17. Or, if in striking, or at any other time when the ball be in play, both his feet shall be over the popping crease, and his wicket put down, except his bat be grounded within it; 18.

Or, if in striking at the ball he hit down his wicket; 19. Or, if under pretense of running, or otherwise, either of the strikers prevent a ball from being caught, the striker of the ball is out; 20. Or, if the ball be struck, and he wilfully strike it again; 21. Or, if in running, the wicket be struck down by a throw, or by the hand or arm, with ball in hand, before his bat, in hand, or some part of his person be grounded over the popping crease. But if both the balls be off, a stump must be struck out of the ground; 22. Or, if any part of the striker's dress knock down the wicket; 23. Or, if the striker touch or take up the ball while in play, unless at the request of the opposite party; 24. Or, if with any part of his person he stop the ball, which, in the opinion of the umpire at the bowler's wicket, shall have been pitched in a straight line from it to the striker's wicket, and would have hit it; 25.

If the players have crossed each other, he that runs for the wicket which shall be put down is out. 26. A ball being caught no run shall be reckoned. 27. A striker being run out, that run which he and his partner were attempting, shall not be reckoned. 28. If a lost ball be called, the striker shall be allowed six runs; but if more than six shall have been run before lost ball shall have been called, then the striker shall have all which have been run. 29. After the ball shall have been finally settled in the wicket keeper's or bowler's hands, it shall be considered dead; but when the bowler is about to deliver the ball, if the striker at the wicket go outside the popping crease before such actual delivery, the said bowler may put him out, unless (with reference to the 21st law) his bat in hand, or some part of his person be within the popping crease. 30. The striker shall not retire from his wicket and return to it to complete his innings after another has been in, without the consent of the opposite party. 31.

No substitute shall in any case be allowed to stand out or run between wickets for another person without the consent of the opposite party; and in case any person shall be allowed to run for another, the striker shall be out if either he or his substitute be off the ground in manner mentioned in Laws 17 and 21, while the ball is in play. 32. In all cases where a substitute shall be allowed, the consent of the opposite party shall also be obtained as to the person to act as substitute, and the place in the field which he shall take. 33. If any fieldsman stop the ball with his bat, the ball shall be considered dead, and the opposite party shall add five runs to their score; If any be run they shall have five in all. 34. The ball having been hit, the striker may guard his wicket with his bat, or with any part of his body except his hands, that the 23rd Law may not be disobeyed. 35.

The wicket-keeper shall not take the ball for the purpose of stumping until it shall have passed the wicket; he shall not move until the ball be out of the bowler's hand; he shall not by any noise incommode the striker; and if any part of his person be over or before the wicket, although the ball hit, the striker shall not be out. 36. The umpires are the sole judges of fair or unfair play, and all disputes shall be determined by them, each at his own wicket; but in case of a catch which the other umpire at the wicket bowled from cannot see sufficiently to decide upon, he may apply to the other umpire, whose opinion shall be conclusive. 37. The umpires in all matches shall pitch fair wickets, and the parties shall toss up for choice of innings. The umpires shall change wickets after each party has had one innings. 38. They shall allow two minutes for each striker to come in, and ten minutes between each innings. When the umpire shall call "Play," the party refusing to play shall lose the match. 39. They are not to order a striker out unless appealed to by the adversaries; 40.

But if either of the bowler's feet be not on the ground behind the bowling crease and within the return crease when he shall deliver the ball, the umpire at his wicket, unmasked, must call "No ball." 41. If either of the strikers run a short run, the umpire must call "One short." 42. No umpire shall be allowed to bet. 43. No umpire is to be changed during a match, unless with the consent of both parties, except in case of violation of the 42nd Law; then either party may dismiss the transgressor. 44. After the delivery of four balls the umpire must call "Over," but not until the ball shall be finally settled in the wicket-keeper's or bowler's hand; the ball then shall be considered dead: nevertheless, if an idea be entertained that either of the striker's is out, a question may be put previously to, but not after, the delivery of the next ball. 45. The umpire must take especial care to call, "No ball" instantly upon delivery: "Wide ball" as soon as it shall pass the striker. 46.

The players who go in second shall follow their innings, if they have obtained eighty runs less than their antagonists, except in all matches limited to only one day's play, when the number shall be limited to sixty instead of eighty. 47. When one of the strikers shall be put out, the use of the bat shall not be allowed to any person until the next striker shall come in. The Laws Of Cricket The Laws Of Cricket ( Originally Published Early 1900's ) The Marylebone Cricket Club, with its headquarters at Lord's Ground, St. John's Wood, is the supreme legislative assembly as regards Cricket, and it is to the M.C.C. that cricketers look for the revision and alteration of the laws when necessary. Those laws, as at present received, are as follows : THE LAWS OF CRICKET. As Amended by the Marylebane Club, 1884, 1889, and 1894. 1. A match is played between two sides of eleven players each, unless otherwise agreed to ; each side has two innings, taken alternately, except in the case provided for in Law 53. The choice of innings shall be decided by tossing.

2. The score shall be reckoned by runs. A run is scored :- 1st. So often as the batsmen after a hit, or at any time while the ball is in play, shall have crossed, and made good their ground, from end to end. 2nd. For penalties under Laws 16, 34, 41, and allowances under 44. Any run or runs so scored shall he duly recorded by scorers appointed for the purpose. The side which scores the greatest number of runs wins the match. No match is won unless played out or given up, except in the case provided in Law 45, 3. Before the commencement of the match two umpires shall be appointed ; one for each end. 4. The ball shall weigh not less than five ounces and a half, nor more than five ounces and three-quarters. It shall measure not less than nine inches nor more than nine inches and one-quarter in circumference. At the beginning of each innings either side may demand a new ball. 5. The bat shall not exceed four inches and one-quarter in the widest part ; it shall not be more than thirty-eight inches in length. 6.

The wickets shall be pitched opposite and parallel to each other at a distance of twenty-two yards. Each wicket shall be eight inches in width and consist of three stumps, with two bails upon, the top. The stumps shall be of equal and sufficient size to prevent the hall from passing through, twenty-seven inches out of the ground. The bails shall be four inches in length, and when in position, on the top of the stumps, shall not project more than half an inch above them. The wickets shall not he changed during a match, unless the ground between them become unfit for play, and then only by consent of both sides. 7. The bowling crease shall be in a line with the stumps: six feet eight inches in length ; the stumps in the centre ; with a return crease at each end, at right angles behind the wicket. 8. The popping crease shall be marked four feet from the wicket, parallel to it, and be deemed unlimited in length. 9. The ground shall not be rolled, watered, covered, mown, or beaten during a match, except before the commencement of each innings and of each day's play, when.

unless the inside object, the ground shall be swept and rolled for not more than ten minutes. This shall not prevent the batsman from beating the ground with his bat, nor the batsman nor bowlers from using sawdust to obtain a proper foothold. 10. The ball must be bowled ; if thrown or jerked the umpire shall .call " No ball." 11. The bowler shall deliver the hall with one foot on the ground behind the bowling crease, and within the return crease, otherwise the umpire shall call "No ball." 12. If the bowler shall bowl the ball so high over or so wide of the wicket that in the opinion of the umpire it is not within reach of the striker, the umpire shall call " Wide ball." 13. The ball shall be bowled in overs of five balls from each wicket alternately. When five halls have been bowled, and the ball is finally settled in the bowler's or wicket-keeper's hands, the umpire shall call "Over." Neither a "no ball" nor a "wide ball" shall be reckoned as one of the "over." 14.

The bowler shall be allowed to change ends as often as he pleases, provided only that he does not bowl two overs consecutively in one innings. 15. The bowler may require the batsman at the wicket from which he is bowling to stand on that side of it which he may direct. 16. The striker may hit a "no ball," and whatever runs result shall be added to his score ; but he shall not be out from a "no ball" unless he be run out or break Laws 26, 27, 29, 30. All runs made from a "no ball" otherwise than from the bat, shall be scored "no balls," and if no run be made one run shall be added to that score. From a "wide ball" as many runs as are run shall be added to the score as "wide balls," and if no run he otherwise obtained one run shall be so added. 17.

If the ball, not having been called "wide" or "no ball," pass the striker without touching his hat or person, and any runs be obtained, the umpire shall call "Bye ;" but if the ball touch any part of the striker's person (hand excepted) and any run be obtained, the umpire shall call " Leg bye," such runs to be scored "byes" and "leg byes" respectively. 18. At the beginning of the match, and of each innings, the umpire at the bowler's wicket shall call "Play ; " from that time no trial ball shall be allowed to any bowler on the ground between the wickets, and when one of the batsmen is out the use of the bat shall not be allowed to any person until the next batsman shall come in. 19. A batsman shall be held to be " out of his ground " unless his bat in hand or some part of his person be grounded within the line of the popping crease. 20. The wicket shall be held to be "down" when either of the bails is struck off, or, if both bails be off, when a stump is struck out of the ground.

The STRIKER is OUT- 21. If the wicket be bowled down, even if the ball first touch the striker's bat or person :-" Bowled." 22. Or, if the ball, front a stroke of the bat or hand, but not the wrist, be held before it touch the ground, although it be hugged to the body of the catcher :-" Caught." 23. Or, if in playing at the ball, provided it be not touched by the bat or hand, the striker he out of his ground, and the wicket he put down by the wicket-keeper with the ball or with hand or arm, with ball in hand :-" Stumped." 24. Or, if with any part of his person he stop the ball, which in the opinion of the umpire at the bowler's wicket shall have been pitched in a straight line from it to the striker's wicket and would have hit it :-" Leg before wicket." 25. Or, if in playing at the ball he hit down his wicket with his bat or any part of his person or dress :-"Hit wicket." 26.

Or, if under pretence of running, or otherwise, either of the batsmen wilfully prevent a ball from being caught :-" Obstructing the field." 27. Or, if the ball be struck, or be stopped by any part of his person, and he wilfully strike it again, except it be done for the purpose of guarding his wicket, which he may do with his bat, or any part of his person, except his hands :-" Hit the hall twice." Either BATSMAN is out- 28. If in running, or at any other time, while the ball is in play, he be out of his ground, and his wicket be struck down by the ball after touching any fieldsman, or by the hand or arm, with hall in hand of any fieldsman :-" Run out." 29. Or, if he touch with his hands or take up the ball while in play, unless at the request of the opposite side :-"Handled the ball." 30. Or, if he wilfully obstruct any fieldsman :-" Obstructing the field." 31.

If the batsmen have crossed each other, he that runs for the wicket which is put down is out ; if they have not crossed, he that has left the wicket which is put down is out. 32. The striker being caught no runs shall be scored. A batsman being run out, that run which was being attempted shall not be scored. 33. A batsman being out from any cause, the ball shall be " Dead." 34. If a ball in play cannot be found or recovered, any fieldsman may call " Lost ball," when the ball shall be "dead." Six runs shall be added to the score ; but if more than six runs have been run before "Lost ball" has been called, as many runs as have been run shall be scored. 35.

After the ball shall have been finally settled in the wicket-keeper's or bowler's hand, it shall be "dead"; but when the bowler is about to deliver the hall, if the batsman at his wicket be out of his ground before actual delivery, the said bowler may run him out ; but if the bowler throw at that wicket and any ran result, it shall be scored "No ball." 36. A batsman shall not retire from his wicket and return to it to complete his innings after another has been in, without the consent of the opposite side. 37. A substitute shall be allowed to field or run between wickets for any player who may during the match be incapacitated from illness or injury, but for no other reason, except with consent of the opposite side. 38. In all cases where a substitute shall he allowed, the consent of the opposite side shall be obtained as to the person to act as substitute, and the place in the field which he shall take.

Cricket Bats | Barrington Sports Barrington Sports Showing 1-48 of 275 results Ranging from the very best 2016 grade 1 English willow Cricket Bats down to entry level Kashmir bats from cricket's best loved brands - including Gray Nicolls, Kookaburra, New Balance, Gunn and Moore, Puma, Hunts County, and Bradbury. Choose your weight, size and cricket bat profile with ease this season at the UK's leading Cricket Specialist. A full range of cricket bats available across both junior and senior bat sizes. more less Cricket Bats - The Buyer's Guide 2016 cricket bats vary from big edged, perfectly balanced international standard willow grades, down to the most accessible and value for money Kashmir cricket bats for beginners. We have hundreds of options to choose from at Barrington sports. Choosing the right bat size, weight and willow quality is key to ensuring you have a bat that compliments your playing style and ability level. Read on for in depth insight into your choice of cricket bat this season. Materials & Manufacturing Materials Cricket bats are carved from willow, which is a naturally fibrous wood.

Each cricket bat manufacturer will seek to select the best woods for their products to ensure high standards and overall product quality. The two types of willow used for bat making are English Willow and Kashmir [Indian] Willow. English Willow: This is a soft, fibrous timber. This type of willow is the preferred choice for the majority of bat manufacturers due to its high performance effect when striking the ball. Regardless of type however, willow will become damaged and prone to breakages over time. The cricket bat can become scarred, bruised and dented due to the nature of the game and the frequent high intense impacts of the ball hitting the cricket bat. Kashmir Willow: Kashmir willow comes from India. This is largely utilised by cricket bat manufacturers as a substitute for English Willow. The Kashmir willow is regarded as a harder wood and in comparison to English willow does not have the same performance effect i.e. a player will not experience the same "sweet spot" when striking the ball. Kashmir willow will only be used for lower range and priced cricket bats. It is unlikely that a regular adult player, playing at a reasonable standard would choose to use a Kashmir willow cricket bat.

Carbon Fibre - Some cricket bat manufacturers insert additional carbon fibre into the handle of the cricket bat to make the bat feel lighter in the hands. The insertion of carbon fibre also allows more power to be generated in shots and increases the shock absorption in the handle from high impact balls. Titanium - Due to recent technological advancements and innovations, this material is can be inserted into the handle of cricket bats to add reinforcement and provide more power in the hitting zone. Manufacturing - How are Cricket Bats Made? Time - The process of making a cricket bat takes a relatively long period of time compared to many other sporting products. Before any manufacturing can take place, trees have to be specially planted in selected areas of the UK [or India in the case of Kashmir willow]. 15-30 years after plantation, the trees are chopped down with two more planted thereafter. Clefts - The trees are then chopped into logs and are then split into wedges called clefts. Each bat manufacturer then carefully selects the clefts they want before waxing the clefts at each end to prevent the loss of any water moisture and splitting. The clefts are then placed in drying rooms.

After 6 months the clefts are removed from the drying rooms as they will have reached the required moisture levels. Cutting - The clefts are then cut into the basic shape of a cricket bat with the correct width and length. At this point in the manufacturing process, the handle and toe ends of the bat are established, with the blade selected from the best end of the willow to ensure a quality cricket bat and better performance. Pressing - After machining and grading, the willow is pressed. This strengthens the willow so it can withstand the impact of a cricket ball. The pressing stage of the process has to be done very carefully, to avoid the cricket bat from being compressed too much. Fitting the handle - The next stage is to fit the handle to the cricket bat. The handle is usually constructed of cane and rubber strips, but with recent technological innovations and advancements, titanium is sometimes utilised. The handle is constructed of such materials to add reinforcements and provide more power in the hitting zone. Shaping - When the handle has been fitted, the cricket bat is nearly complete.

The bat's craftsman then places the bat into a vice and shapes the blade using a draw knife with the majority of wood left in the middle of the cricket bat (some manufacturers will use machines to achieve the same outcome). Some cricket bats are crafted with lower or higher middles depending on the player's batting style and the types of pitches they play on. The craftsmen will shape the blade to enhance the pick-up and weight of the cricket bat and to ensure a good overall balance to the bat. The shoulders of the bat are shaped and blended to give the correct shape and structure to the bat. Final touches - The cricket bat is then sanded twice, with the shoulders shaped again and blended into the handle of the bat. The cricket bat is then finished using a horse's shin bone to polish the surface of the bat. This compresses the cricket bat further, provides a nice polished finish, and increases the overall presentation of the cricket bat. Once rubber grips and the manufacturers logo are added the cricket bat is now complete and ready to be sold.

Bear in mind that at this stage the cricket bat isn't entirely finished as you will have to do some preparation to your bat prior to using it, even where stickers state the bat is pre-prepared Legal Specifications Cricket bat manufacturers must stay within the rules. You will find that all brands stocked in reputable specialist retailers will meet these rules. For your information, the MCC's (Marylebone Cricket Club) Law 6 states the following: Width and Length - The bat shall be no more than 38 inches/96.5 cm in length. The blade of the cricket bat shall be made solely of wood and shall not exceed 4 inches/10.8 cm at the widest part. Covering the Blade - The blade may be covered with material for protection, strengthening or repair. Such material shall not exceed 1/16 inches/1.56 mm in thickness, and shall not be likely to cause unacceptable damage to the ball.

Design Features In addition to materials and size specifications, you should also consider the following design features when selecting cricket bats: Covered or Uncovered Face The uncovered look means that the grain of the cricket bat is showing, whereas the covered look means that the blade of the bat is not immediately showing [although you may be able to see the blade through transparent protective coating]. Each of the above will appear differently on cricket bats, but most importantly of all, you should note that the bat's performance will not be hindered. Protective coating [anti-scuff] is, on balance, advised in most cases in order to add maximise protection to the face of the cricket bat. This should prevent additional moisture being absorbed into the wood, as well as to help bind surface cracks together. The Number of Grains on the Bat There are many views surrounding grains on a cricket bat. Generally speaking though, the number of grains on a cricket bat is something that can be left to the discretion of the individual. The number of grains will often differ from bat to bat. A cricket bat between 6 and 12 grains is a good indicator of quality willow.

Cricket bats with 6 grains, for example, are likely to be slightly softer than 10-12 grains and therefore take longer to knock-in and reach optimal performance initially. However, please note there are some extremely good premium range bats with lower grains. Willow Grade Grade 1+ [A] highest quality of English willow, historically used for the manufacturer's sponsored players, but increasingly being rolled-out to top end bats for the public across specialist stores. The grains are straight and even, the wood unbleached and there should be minimal to no marking or discolouration on the bat face. Grade 1 - G1 [A] top quality English Willow. Good straight grain structure and unbleached with minimal marking or discolouration in the face. Grade 2 - G2 [B] Usually unbleached English Willow with irregular grain pattern and some marking and discolouration in the blade. Grade 4 - G4 English Willow usually bleached and often non oil with a covering to the face of the bat. The Shape, Size and Bow of the Cricket Bat This is normally a matter of personal preference. Some players prefer crickiet bats with a large bow where as others don't.

Increasingly, professional players' preference for a larger bow and thicker edges to better meet the rigors of the modern game, is being reflected in the designs available to the general public. The size of the bow can have an impact on the pick-up of the cricket bat, as an increased bow can often result in the cricket bat having a heavier pick up. Some bows are higher or lower down the bat depending on batsmen's hitting style, or to reflect the pitches which you play on. A low bouncing wicket in Northern England or India may suit a lower bow compared to the dry climate and bouncy pitches of Perth, Western Australia. A Toe Guard The toe on all cricket bats can be vulnerable to breakages. It can be better prevented through fitting a toe guard. Many cricket bats now come with a toe guard already attached. A cricket bat is designed to strike the ball 6-8 inches up from the toe, in the centre of the blade. When batsmen face "Yorker" deliveries at the toe end, the impact of a moving bat meeting the speed of the ball can be very high, thereby causing the wood to dent or split. As a result it would be advisable to fit a toe guard to reduce the risk of breakage.

A Natural Finish This is similar to an uncovered face, with the willow not covered by an anti-scruff cover or face tape. Most of the top-end bats offer this natural, traditional finish. Some of the lower grades of willow maybe bleached to artificially replicate the colour of high-quality willow. Twenty/Twenty Style Cricket Bat This cricket bat has been designed for bigger hitting, particularly in 20/20 matches. The cricket bat has a shorter blade and a longer handle to allow batsmen increased leverage to make those big shots required for this format of the game. Mongoose are the market leaders in this niche area. Other brands use more subtle techniques, including longer blade/shorter handle bats, or narrowing width of cricket bat slightly to further reduce weight and increase bat speed. The Pick-Up When you are trying a cricket bat, position yourself in your normal stance as you would at the crease. Then simply pick the cricket bat up as you would as if the bowler was about to deliver the ball. When you pick the cricket bat up, note how the bat feels in your hands, i.e. is it light? Is it heavy? Where is the balance of the bow? Is it a lower middle or a higher middle?

More generally can you hold the cricket bat in one hand, when stretched out in front of you? This has implications on your choice of cricket bat as you may want a heavier cricket bat for striking that feels like it has a comparatively light pick up. It is unlikely for instance that you would want to follow the great Sachin Tendulkar by choosing a 3lb plus cricket bat. Unless you have strong arms and wrists, your speed to pick-up and follow through may become too slow with such heavy cricket bats. When trying out cricket bats, it would be advisable foy you to wear a pair of batting gloves. That way you gain a reliable insight into how the cricket bat actually feels in your hands. It would also be advisable for you to practice some shots without a ball, to see if you can use the bat effectively. Short or Long Handle When looking at senior cricket bats you will see that they come in two forms; Short Handle (SH) or Long Handle (LH). It would normally be advisable for players to choose a short handled cricket bat for increased control. However if you are tall, i.e.

above 6 foot 2 inches it might be advisable for you to select a long handled cricket bat, they are however, much less readily available in the shops due to niche demand. Indeed, many tall players are opting for Short Handles. Junior sizes range all the way from size 1 (smallest) to size 6 (largest) with a transition "harrow" size for teenagers not yet big enough to take a short handle. Some manufacturers also offer an "Academy" size which offer an extra step between the traditional Harrow and Short Handle. Sizing When using the Cricket Bat Size Chart please note the following abbreviations may be used. Acronym Points to Consider Prior to Purchase: What's your budget? How much are you prepared to spend on your cricket bat? This is obviously a pivotal point to consider when selecting cricket bats. Those without budget limits can targets the players, limited edition, and similar top end senior ranges that range from about 350-500 RRP before any additional discounts [2011/12 prices]. However you can still buy high quality senior cricket bats between 200-350 if you have budget constraints.

Similar top-end junior cricket bats is likely to range from 150-200 RRP, with mid-value for money ranges between 100-150 RRP. What cricket bat have you used before? This is a question worth bearing in mind as you may want to choose the same cricket bat manufacturer again or maybe you have a loyalty towards a certain brand. Decide whether you were happy with the last cricket bat you purchased in terms of quality, personal performance and overall satisfaction. If you are satisfied then maybe consider purchasing a cricket bat from the same bat manufacturer. Growth as a factor. If you are a child looking to purchase a cricket bat or are buying a bat for a child, it would be worth considering growth as a factor. When your child is growing quickly, particularly during his/her early teens, selecting a cricket bat is a whole lot harder. If this is the case, it would be advisable not to spend large amounts of money on a top end cricket bat that could potentially only be used for half a season. How serious are you as a cricket player? The level you are playing at will determine how frequent you will be using your cricket bat.

If you are playing at a high level, you will probably be netting and playing multiple times a week against high quality, quick bowling. Therefore you may well require a high quality cricket bat. Preparation and Maintenance Preparation and maintenance is the key to a long bat life. Once you've purchased your cricket bat, the next step is to prepare it for action and then maintain it. Preparation comes in two phases: (1) Oiling and (2) Knocking it in. Part 1: Oiling Your Cricket Bat Using a soft rag, apply a light coat of oil to the Face, Edges, Toe and Back of the cricket bat. AVOID getting oil on the splice of the bat as it may undermine the glue holding the handle and blade of the bat together! Avoid over oiling the cricket bat. After the coat of oil has been applied, leave the cricket bat in a horizontal position to dry over night. On the next day, apply a second coat, following the same directions as the first one. Leave to dry. After oiling the cricket bat, the next phase begins - Knocking In Try and oil your bat regularly to keep the fibres of the wood supple and prevent the face of the cricket bat cracking.

If applying anti-scuff oil only once, very lightly. A number of cricket bat manufacturers indicate that over half of the bats sent back to them for repair, have not been sufficiently oiled or have in turn been over oiled. A balance needs to be struck, with a light coating as the main instruction provided by bat manufacturers. If the cricket bat you have just purchased has an anti-scruff cover, the face will not need oiling. However the back of the cricket bat will need oiling. Part 2: Knocking Your Bat In: After purchase, all cricket bats should be knocked in to prepare them for use in competitive matches. The edges, toe and blade of the bat all need to be sufficiently knocked in, as these areas face large amounts of impact from the cricket ball, therefore making them vulnerable to breakages and damage. Knocking your cricket bat in is an effective way of ensuring that the bat has been compacted enough to prevent impact damage. As the knocking in process is a very important aspect of preparing your cricket bat for action, it cannot be rushed and must be done carefully. Knocking your cricket bat in is effectively ensuring that the wood of the bat is compact as the fibres are compressed and knitted together.

Consider the following steps when knocking in: Using a hardwood bat mallet, gently strike the face and the edges of the cricket bat, simulating what the ball would do in a competitive game situation. Repeat the above on multiple occasions, gradually increasing the power. Use the same method as above to round the edges of the cricket bat, but be careful. Avoid using too much power to begin with as this could result in unnecessary damage. Note: Do not hit the edge directly with the mallet, gradually round the cricket bat off. It is important to knock the edges of the bat in as they can often be vulnerable to damage during competitive matches and net play. After 2-3 Hours of knocking the cricket bat in, you can take it to the nets and hit some short catches using an old ball. If seam marks or small indentations appear on the face of the cricket bat, it would be necessary to return to the first step. After continuing to knock the cricket bat in and completing some close catching sessions, you could try the bat in your normal net practice. After a few net sessions, your cricket bat should be ready to use in a competitive match. Added Protection After knocking your bat in, you may wish to add a protective cover to the cricket bat.

This should be positioned and fitted approximately 3-5mm from the toe of the bat, with the cover running up the face of the cricket bat and finishing just below the bat manufacturers labels. What about pre-knocked in cricket bats? Bats that come "pre-knocked" in or "pre-prepared". This means that the manufacturers have employed some special machinery to compress the bats and mimic the "Knocking-in" process. However all manufacturers will still recommend cricket bats be knocked in for a short duration. Instead of knocking the bat in for long periods of time using a hardwood bat mallet, you could conduct some short practice slip catches using an old cricket ball. Knocking the face in further will be beneficial in developing the cricket bats overall performance. Top Tips Inspect your bat regularly for any signs of damage or dryness due to a lack of oiling. This way you can utilise preventative measures before your cricket bat breaks. When in the nets, ensure that the bowlers are using high quality cricket balls; this will avoid damage being caused to your cricket bats. Avoid getting the toe of the bat wet during matches and net practice.

If cracks appear on the face and the edges of the cricket bat, sand them out and apply a covering of oil. During the course of a season, sand the blade and edges of the cricket bat twice using sandpaper. Then apply covering oil. Please Note: It must be remembered that the cricket ball is supposed to contact the cricket bat's blade in the middle of the bat. Any occasion where the ball strikes the bottom or edges of the bat is deemed as a bad shot and any resulting damage cannot necessarily be attributed to the blade being faulty. ALL cricket bats will encounter some damage when the ball is struck on the edge or bottom. However, it must be accepted that a badly miss-timed shot can cause damage to the bat, and this is usually obvious on examination. Bat Damage Problems with Cricket Bats Cricket bats will break at sometime or other mainly due to the fact that they are manufactured from raw materials and are therefore naturally fragile. When you've purchased a cricket bat it would be nice to think that the bat would last forever, but unfortunately due to the fact that they are manufactured from a natural product they decay as time goes on making them more vulnerable to damage and breakages.

Handle Breaks This can often be caused through general wear and tear and can therefore sometimes be unavoidable. In some circumstances the handle of the bat can be replaced by some bat manufacturers largely depending on the extent of the damage. Breakage to the Blade This can be caused by dry willow. When the willow of the bat becomes dry, the cricket bat is made considerably weaker therefore making it more vulnerable to damage and breakages. Surface cracks to the face of the Blade and the edge of the Blade Again, this can be caused by general wear and tear and more often than not poor bat maintenance. Cracks to the face and edges of the blade will not affect performance but will make the bat more vulnerable to further damage over time. It would be advisable for you to utilise bat tape to prevent any further damage from occurring. Split Toe This can often be unavoidable due to the nature of the sport and the sheer impact of the ball hitting the cricket bat. This is often attributed to striking the ball at the base of the blade when facing a Yorker type delivery. Some of the most common breakage causes with cricket bats are: Dry willow Letting the bat get wet Playing poor shots regularly Poor preparation in terms of oiling the bat and knocking it in Poor maintenance

Question: The laws of cricket state that the length of a cricket bat must be no more than how many inches?
Answer: 38