Souchong | Define Souchong at Dictionary.com souchong a variety of black tea grown in India and Sri Lanka. Origin of souchong 1750-60; < Chinese dial. (Guangdong) síu-júng, akin to Chinese xiǎozhǒng literally, small sort Dictionary.com Unabridged Examples from the Web for souchong Expand Micah Clarke Arthur Conan Doyle He had been a tea-merchant for a little longer, but had soon tired of pekoe and souchong. British Dictionary definitions for souchong Expand a black tea with large leaves Word Origin C18: from Chinese hsiao-chung small kind Collins English Dictionary - Complete & Unabridged 2012 Digital Edition © William Collins Sons & Co. Ltd. 1979, 1986 © HarperCollins Publishers 1998, 2000, 2003, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2012 What is Lapsang Souchong Tea?

| Tea Forte Checkout our Black Teas: Lapsang Souchong They ship fast and free (above a minimum). Get your favorite's now! The History, Preparation and Characteristics that Make this Chinese Tea Special You may have heard of Lapsang Souchong tea, a unique variety of black tea that originated in China. This tea is known for the smoky flavor that makes it pleasantly different from other teas. How did this tea come to be, and where can you find it today? Origins and History Like many types of tea, the true history of the smoked variety of Souchong is tangled up in legends. Many claim that all black tea originated in Tongmu Village in the Wuyishan Mountains of Fujian province in China. The story goes that, once upon a time, all the tea produced in Tongmu was green tea, which was traded with Europeans. One year, soldiers moved through the area, occupying the village of Tongmu during tea harvesting time. Recently harvested tea wound up sitting and oxidizing, thus becoming black tea.

After the soldiers moved out, the villagers returned and were devastated to find that their tea had been “ruined.” One of them suggested trying to revive the tea by smoking it to remove the unpleasant odor left behind by the army. The result was a smoky, unusual brew. Another legend states that soldiers moving through Tongmu set fire to pine sheds where tea was drying, and this is what created the smoke flavor. Either way, the strange new variety of tea was well liked by the Europeans, who asked for more. To continue creating this tea, the Chinese harvested and withered the leaves, pan-fried them and rolled them, then allowed them to ferment before smoke-drying them over a smoldering pine fire. Finding Smoky Souchong Today Interestingly enough, little smoked Souchong tea is actually produced in Tongmu these days. Another tea type, Jin Jun Mei, is more profitable, making Souchong a less attractive choice for tea growers and processors. However, many companies in other places follow the traditional smoking method to produce a delicious black tea with the authentic flavor that people have come to enjoy. These teas can be found at online tea stores and in tea shops.

Brewing and Enjoying Unique Souchong Tea The brewing method for smoked Souchong teas is similar to that of other black tea types. Add loose tea to an infuser inside a cup or pot, or place tea bags in the vessel of your choice. Pour boiling water over the top and steep for three to five minutes. Since the smoky flavor of this tea can be quite strong, it’s best to start with a shorter brewing time and taste it to see what you think. After a bit of trial and error, you’ll find the strength that you like best. At Tea Forte, you can get Lapsang Souchong loose or in our handcrafted pyramid infuser to be enjoyed any time you like. Follow the steeping instructions to get a flavorful cup without any hint of bitterness and experience the difference that the unique smoke-drying process makes. Lapsang Souchong, The Original Version – Page 2 – Tea Guardian Black tea varieties / Tea varieties Lapsang Souchong, The Original Version The colour of infusion tells a lot of the quality of a tea.

These three teas have all appeared in the previous page as tealeaves: the original Lapsang Souchong, the top grade smoked Lapsang Souchong and the Bailin gongfu version. Which is which? Tips: theaflavins, the indicator of higher quality in black tea, is yellowish orange; theabrownins, browner in colour, is more abundant in lower quality black tea. Thearubigins, the red colour in all black tea, is of the highest content in all. Answer at the end of the 3rd page of this article. what is a souchong? There has been a Western traditional misinterpretation of the term souchong (ie xiaozhong) as being a coarse or big leaf tea variety. So the West had continued to apply that term as one of the grades basing on leaf size or appearance (5) , although it is not as frequently used now. The original term “xiaozhong” refers exactly the opposite: small leaf variety. It refers actually to a family of tea cultivars that had existed in this part of Fujian since 1717 (6) , before the first black tea was made.

Souchong in traditional gongfu black tea production refers to a set of processing steps employing tealeaves of the xiaozhong cultivars. what does lapsang mean? As for the term “Lapsang”, it is a romanization of the expression “Inner Mountain” from a Fujian dialect, referring to the origin of the tea, Xing Cun (translate: Star Village), as being deep inside the mountains of Wuyi. Romanization of Lapsang Souchong would be “Nei-shan Xiao-zhong” in modern Mandarin. The initial intention of this naming was thus to differentiate the authentic productions from those in neighbouring areas, which was referred to as “wai-shan xiao-zhong” (ie that from the “outside” mountains). Later the term evolved from “Inner Mountain” to become “Authentic Mountain” (ie Zheng-shan) in the present Chinese name, Zhengshan Xiaozhong. The area of being the authentic origin now has grown from the tiny deep mountain village to other areas in Wuyi. This idea in naming actually had been a Wuyi tradition before black tea.

Wuyi oolongs had always been referred to as “zheng-yan”, where “zheng (authentic)” is the same character as that in “zheng-shan”; while “yan” is the character for “big rock”, particularly referring to the heights of the mounts. So teas from the authentic rocks, or authentic mountain, are supposed to be a lot better. However, Wuyi was only one of the many key production regions with good reputation that the neighbours, whether immediately outside of the small original village or outside of the county, had wanted to imitate. It was only but one amongst all famous black tea regions just within Fujian, ie the famous Minhong areas, all of which also produced their versions of xiaozhongs (7) . smoking with pinewood is only one variety of “lapsang souchong” Referring back to the tea menus in London in the early days, obviously the tea customers in those days knew only of a kind of black tea called souchong, without any further qualifier as to which region it had come from. And all other souchongs have never had the property of being smoked.

It is therefore, reasonably logical to believe, without other solid reliable reference available, that most xiaozhong productions are seen as a generic one, which subtle origin quality difference was understood mostly only by the traders (or just the importers and exporters, and maybe a few tea connoisseurs). Subsequently we can conclude that the distinctive smoked character should be a different thing than the original intent of Zhengshan Xiaozhong (ie Lapsang Souchong). As to whether the strong smoky favour got into the tea by design or by accident as in various fables, it is irrelevant. This is in agreement with the tradition that is practiced today by the producers: they make mostly clean varieties, especially finer quality ones, with their premium harvests. The large quantity of smoked versions are made with mass market quality chapei ( 茶胚 ie tealeaves for scenting ) from neighbouring areas. Most are not even made remotely close to Wuyi. Of these a huge proportion is scented with additives rather than smoked with pinewood. Almost all are meant for export. footnotes Best Black Tea Types Best Black Tea Types By Lindsey Goodwin Updated September 14, 2015.

Black tea is the most common type of tea in the West. However, there are many different types of black teas , ranging from blended and flavored teabags to handmade, artisan, loose-leaf teas . Below, you'll find descriptions, photos, price listings and reviews of my top recommendations for must-try black teas for newbies and connoisseurs alike. Darjeeling First Flush Teas tend to look more green than Darjeeling Second Flush teas. These leaves are from Risheehat Estate's 2009 plucking. Lindsey Goodwin Buy from Amazon Commonly known as the "Champagne of Tea," the region of Darjeeling produces what is often considered to be the world's best black tea. Darjeeling black teas vary substantially by when they are harvested. (Each of the harvests are known as a "flush" and the spring harvest / first flush is the most famous and the "greenest" of the flushes. Here's more on tea flushes in Darjeeling .) However, generally speaking, Darjeeling black teas taste delicate, fruity, floral and light, and are best drunk without any milk or sugar added.

Check Amazon rating » continue reading below our video Overview of Black Tea Anhui Keemun's tiny black leaves produce a dark liquor and alarmingly bold brew when brewed according to the directions. Marko Goodwin Buy from Amazon Keemun black tea (or Qimen hong cha) is a black tea from the Anhui Province of eastern China. High quality Keemun teas are a connoisseur favorite, and are noted for their distinctive aromas and flavors, which are often described as smooth, winey (wine-like), fruity, floral, piney and tobacco-like. Although Keemun needs no additives to be enjoyed, it's also good with milk and / or sugar. For an unusual twist on Keemun black tea, try this " Keemun-Kantaloupe Kooler " from tea chef Robert Wemischner. Check Amazon rating » Assam is located in the far east of India. Marko Goodwin Buy from Amazon Assam black tea tends to be bold, malty and brisk. Teas from Assam are often used as the base for English Breakfast Tea, Irish Breakfast Tea and other black tea blends.

A bit of sugar and a splash of milk are commonly added to pure Assamese teas and Assam-based tea blends. Although most Assam black tea is CTC tea or lower grades of tea used in teabags, it is possible to find high quality, loose leaf tea from Assam. Check Amazon rating » Downy, coiled, golden tea buds brew into a pumpkin-hued brew with nuanced caramel and toffee flavors. Marko Goodwin Buy from Amazon As the name suggests, Yunnan black tea hails from Yunnan -- a province in China better known for its pu-erh tea . Some Yunnan black teas are partially fermented, meaning that they straddle the line between black tea and pu-erh. Their flavors are typically chocolaty, dark, malty and nuanced. Sometimes, they have notes of spice and / or a lasting sweetness in the finish . People who love chocolate tend to love Keemun black tea. Like other teas from China, Yunnan black tea may also be referred to as "hong cha" or red tea . Check Amazon rating » These Ceylon tealeaves are "wiry," which means they are long, thin and slightly kinked, like wires.

Marko Goodwin Lapsang souchong | WikiTea | Fandom powered by Wikia Edit High grade lapsang souchong possesses a taste of dried longan for the first few brews. Lapsang souchong's flavour is strong and smoky, similar to the smell of a barbecue or campfire , or of Latakia pipe tobacco. The flavour of the pine smoke is meant to complement the natural taste of the black tea, but should not overwhelm it. Tea merchants marketing to westerners note that this variety of tea generally produces a strong reaction—with most online reviews extremely positive or strongly negative. Tea connoisseurs often note that Formosan lapsang souchong typically has a stronger flavour and aroma, the most extreme being tarry souchong (smoked, as the name implies, over burning pine tar). Smoke roast Edit Smoke roast (熏焙 xun bei): Roasting in a bamboo basket called honglong (烘笼) that is heated over burning firewood, which contributes to the dried longan aroma and smoky flavor. Pine tree was used as the firewood for lapsang souchong and contains the characteristic resin aroma and taste.

Chemistry Edit The unique aroma of lapsang souchong is due to a variety of chemical compounds. The two most abundant constituents of the aroma are longifolene and α-terpineol . Many of the compounds making up the aroma of lapsang souchong, including longifolene, originate only in the pine smoke, and are not found in other kinds of tea. [1] Cultural references Edit In American author James A. Michener's 1974 historical novel Centennial , Rocky Mountain fur trapper Alexander McKeag describes lapsang souchong as "a man's tea, deep and subtle and blended in some rugged place," ... "better even than whisky." [2] In Star Trek: The Next Generation, Captain Picard's tea of choice was originally intended by actor Patrick Stewart to be lapsang souchong, but was changed to Earl Grey by the writers, as it was more familiar with the American audience. Colin Hay , singer from the Australian band Men at Work references lapsang souchong in his song "Beautiful World," from his 2001 album Going Somewhere .

The hit TV show, The Mentalist, the protagonist's (Patrick Jane, an inveterate tea drinker) favorite tea is Lapsang Souchong. References Lapsang Souchong Tea - Chinese Black Tea | Harney.com | Harney & Sons Fine Teas 5 Details Lapsangs comes from The Wuyi Mountains (WuyiShan) in the northeastern part of Fujian Province. This was where black teas were first developed (called Bohea.) In the steeply forested mountains wood was plentiful, so it came naturally to smoke tea like bacon. The leaves were slowly withered to create a complex tea, then the leaves were slowly dried in rooms with a smoky fire below. Dry Leaves Chinese Black Tea, Varieties of Black Tea Black Tea Introduction Part 1 - Varieties of Black Tea Black Tea Introduction Part 1 - Varieties of Black Tea Black tea, one of the six tea species, is the sort of fully fermented. It is renowned by its red liquid. Basic making procedures of black tea include withering, rolling, fermentation, and drying. Among them, fermentation is the most significant process of making black tea . It defines the quality of the tea.

Meanwhile, plenty of healthy substances are produced during fermentation, which are important to the health benefit of black tea . Also fermentation is the reason why people who caring health loves black tea. This is the part 1 of our Introduction of Black Tea . Here we will talk about the different sorts of black tea. Development of Black Tea The very first black tea produced in China belonged to small leaf species, after then Gong Fu Black Tea was invented. The modern tea sage Wu Juenong wrote about the origin and spread of black tea in his famous work Review of The Classic of Tea (《茶经述评》; 2005). He came to the conclusion that black tea was firstly developed in Chong’an (now Wuyishan City) in Fujian Province. It spread in the path started from Chong’an, then to Zhenghe, Tanyang Village and Bailin Town in Fujian Province, passed by Qianshan County, Xiushui County, Fuliang County in Jiangxi Province, and then arrived at Dongzhi County in Anhui Province, finally ended in Qimen County.

Due to the complicate crafting of small leaf species black tea, people afterwards simplified the making process: sun withering, rolling, fermentation, drying. Yet these steps could only make rough dry teas. Refining (re-sifting) is needed in order to make qualified tea. Yet repeated sifting will take a lot of time. That’s why the re-sifted black tea is called Gong Fu Black Tea. Although many people probably aren't aware of the huge variety of teas available to them, most everyone is familiar with black tea . What most people don't realize is how much of a variety of black teas there are to choose from. Black teas are currently the most popular types of tea in the United States and Great Britain, and there are many varieties of black teas to choose from. Black teas come in two main types, either flavored black teas such as Earl Grey, Chai Teas and other various flavors, or as a plain black tea with no added flavoring, such as Darjeeling teas, Assam teas, breakfast teas and other unflavored black teas. While there are many varieties of flavored tea in almost any flavor you can imagine, all teas start with just a basic black tea.

Some of the most popular varieties of black tea are Ceylon, Darjeeling, Assam, Keemun, and Nilgiri, all named for the region in which they are grown. Generally, un-blended black teas are named after the region in which they are produced. Often, different regions are known for producing teas with characteristic flavors. Some black teas, called Estate Teas, are extremely high quality teas which have been grown in the same tea garden for hundreds of years. Different Grades of the Material of Black Tea There are also many different grades of black tea, from the best ones such as a good SFTGFOP1 Darjeeling (which stands for Superior Finest Tippy Golden Flowery Orange Pekoe, First Grade), to the worst grades which are called “dust” or “fannings” which is the standard type of black tea you find in generic black tea bags. In between the highest grades of black tea and the lowest grades of black tea you will find that there are many different grades, cuts and production methods in between! Most varieties of black teas are grown and processed in East Asian countries, although Sri Lanka and India also produce some of the finest grown black teas in the world.

Tea from Sri Lanka is known as Ceylon tea, as that used to be the name of Sri Lanka prior to the changing of their country's name. When looking for black teas, you should look for the freshest, most recently plucked black teas, as black teas will degrade in color, aroma and flavor over time, and most expire within 1-2 years, even when stored properly. The color should be bright and black, not dull or grey, and there should be a pleasant aroma about the tea. If the tea has gone bad it will begin to smell rancid or lose its fragrance all together. All varieties of black tea should look, smell and taste pleasant and smooth with little astringency. The Main Types of Unflavored, Un-Blended Black Teas in the World Assam Black Tea Assam black teas are from India and are a strong and robust full-bodied tea with a malty flavor which is often included in most breakfast teas, such as English Breakfast or Irish Breakfast tea.

Ceylon Black Tea Ceylon black teas, as mentioned above, are from Sri Lanka, and there are two primary types of tea which are produced in Ceylon, a crisp lighter black tea, and a heavier bodied medium black tea which has a sweet flavor with hints of fruit. Ceylon teas are often served as afternoon teas. Darjeeling Tea Darjeeling Teas also come from India in the Darjeeling region. Darjeeling black teas are known as the “champagne” of the tea world, and are grown at the highest elevations that teas are grown in all over the world. Darjeeling black teas come in two types, First Flush, which has a crisp, golden refreshing muscatel flavor, and Second Flush which is a much more mellow, smooth and earthy type of black tea. Makes an excellent tea for any time of day! Keemun Black Tea Keemun Tea is another famous black tea which hails from China. Keemun tea was the original “breakfast tea” as it has a deep, rich and bold flavor with a hint of smoke in the background. This tea goes especially well with milk unless it is a very premium grade Keemun.

Kenyan Black Tea Kenyan black tea from Kenya is another hearty and strong breakfast tea which stands up well to milk and sugar. Kenyan black tea is mainly processed by machines, as opposed to most other black teas which are plucked and processed by hand. Lapsang Souchong Lapsang Souchong is a very unique type of black tea, which is prepared by smoking the black tea leaves over bamboo on pine fires to give the flavor a deeply smoked essence, almost like the aroma of campfire smoke, and is best enjoyed without any milk or sweetener. It is said that Winston Churchill drank his Lapsang Souchong with his scotch. Nilgiri Black Tea Nilgiri black tea from India is one of better values of black tea for the cost. They are generally cheaper than most other black teas, yet are smooth medium-bodied teas that hold a hint of sweetness, and can be served with or without milk. A very popular tea all around the world! Yun Nan Dian Hong Yunnan black tea comes from the Yunnan Province of China and is one of the best black teas available. It is a strong, mellow and smoother tea, with a velvety almost silky texture and lingering aftertaste.

These are the main types of unflavored, un-blended black teas in the world. There are many more to discover as there are so many different sort of the varieties already mentioned in this article, and flavoring of any type can be added to any of the un-blended teas to create a delicious flavored black tea. Related Articles Lapsang Souchong - Teapedia Lapsang Souchong Share Lapsang Souchong tea Lapsang souchong (正山小種) is a black tea originally from the Wuyi region of the Chinese province of Fujian . It is more commonly named 正山小种 in Chinese (zhèng shān xiǎo zhǒng) and Japanese (seisanshōshu). It is sometimes referred to as smoked tea (熏茶). Lapsang is distinct from all other types of tea because lapsang leaves are traditionally smoke-dried over pinewood fires, taking on a distinctive smoky flavour. Lapsang souchong is the first black tea in history, even earlier than the famous Keemun tea .

After the lapsang souchong tea was used for producing black tea called Min Hong (meaning "Black tea produced in Fujian "), people started to move the tea bush to different places like Keemun , India and Ceylon . Xiǎozhǒng (小種) means "sub-variety". Lapsang souchong is a member of the Wuyi tea family of teas. Wuyi is the mountain area producing a large family of tea in South-East China). The story goes that the tea was created during the Qing era when the passage of armies delayed the annual drying of the tea leaves in the Wuyi Mountain. Eager to satisfy demand, the tea producers sped up the drying process by having their workers dry the tea leaves over fires made from local pines. Lapsang souchong from the original source is increasingly expensive, as Wuyi is a small area and there is increasing demand for this variety of tea. Flavour and aroma A black tea , lapsang souchong has a rich colour High grade lapsang souchong possesses a taste of dried longan for the first few brews.

Lapsang souchong's flavour is strong and smoky, similar to the smell of a barbecue or campfire, or of Latakia pipe tobacco. The flavour of the pine smoke is meant to complement the natural taste of the black tea, but should not overwhelm it. Tea merchants marketing to Westerners note that this variety of tea generally produces a strong reaction, with most online reviews extremely positive or strongly negative. Tea connoisseurs often note that Formosan lapsang souchong typically has a stronger flavour and aroma, the most extreme being tarry souchong (smoked, as the name implies, over burning pine tar). Smoke roast The smoke roast version is roasted in a bamboo basket called a honglong, which is heated over burning firewood which contributes to the dried longan aroma and smoky flavor. Pine wood is used as the firewood for lapsang souchong and contains the characteristic resin aroma and taste. Chemistry The unique aroma of lapsang souchong is due to a variety of chemical compounds. The two most abundant constituents of the aroma are longifolene and α-terpineol.

Many of the compounds making up the aroma of lapsang souchong, including longifolene, originate only in the pine smoke, and are not found in other kinds of tea. Lapsang Souchong Tea Fang Ai Hua - Wuyi, Fujian Q How long have you been growing tea and what got you started? A“In my hometown everyone is dealing with tea. So I started when I was 18 years old. I learned from my parents. Now I know how to pick tea leaves and make good lapsang.” Q Can you describe a typical day out in the field? A“My hometown is very beautiful mountian area. This area is protected by government. I am so lucky to live in the natural protection area in Wuyi.” Q What is your favorite part of growing tea? A“I like the moment when we taste our teas made by ourselves. We will taste every lot after production. I am happy to drink the tea from my own hand.” Q What do you think makes your tea unique or better than others? A“There is no pollution in our beautiful natural protection area. The air is so fresh, the forest is so green, the sky is so blue, the tea, of course, is so pure.

The reason is very simple, excellent place makes excellent tea.” Q Are there any tips you can give on how to best brew your tea? A“Better use clay teapot to brew the nice lapsang. Eating and talking, enjoy the good tea slowly. Tea is art and life. With a good cup of lapsang, you can feel how beautiful life is.” learn more >> fresh from the garden To ensure the best quality and value, we import our teas directly from the countries in which they are grown, working closely with the farmers who tender them. Our Roots Campaign connects our customers with the rich stories and the farmers behind some of our most popular teas. fresh from origin There are many grades of Lapsang Souchong. The smoking takes place while the fresh leaves are withering, and again while they're being rolled and oxidized. To do this, elaborate smoke houses, several stories high, are used. At the bottom level is the pine fire, which must be carefully controlled so its fresh, sweet fragrance isn't lost. The tea is spread out on each level of the house, and holes are cut in the floor to allow different amounts of smoke through.

The tea master monitors the smoking diligently, being mindful of how the fire is behaving and how to filter the rising smoke through the levels of tea. This tea contains a high level of caffeine direct trade advantage We import our teas direct from the artisan farmers whose names and faces you'll find throughout our catalog. This makes our teas fresher than those offered by the companies who use middlemen and brokers, and also less expensive. Here's a comparison of how much more you'd be paying by buying this tea elsewhere: David's Tea: Conversation: On Lapsang Souchong | Walker Tea Review Conversation: On Lapsang Souchong by . Lapsang Souchong is a tea that many people either love or despise, but what is meant by “lapsang souchong” can be widely varying. Given the range of teas that fall under the name, it is possible to loathe and relish lapsang souchong at the same time. Lapsang souchong may be one of, if not the oldest of black teas produced. Its earliest recognized place of origin lies in Fujian province, and production often involves smoking the tea leaves using pine wood or pine needles in smoke houses. I asked Hartley Johnson of Mark T.

Wendell Tea Comany to share his and his company’s views on lapsang souchong. Mark T. Wendell has been providing tea drinkers with Formosan (Taiwan) Lapsang Souchong for about a century. Theirs is named in honor of Hu Kwa, (a.k.a. Howqua ) a Chinese trade merchant influential in both China and the West. Mary Lou Heiss and her husband Robert have been in the tea business for nearly 40 years. They operate a retail store in Northampton, Massachusetts, and the online store TeaTrekker . They have traveled to origin extensively (including the Fujian villages that produce lapsang souchong), and have written books about tea .

A little more needs to be said about the use of the term “lapsang souchong.” In Chinese characters, it is most often written as “正山小种.” In standard (Mandarin) Chinese, this would be pronounced “zheng shan xiao zhong.” It is therefore possible for the same tea to be transliterated as “lapsang souchong” or “zheng shan xiao zhong.” There has also been an increase in the variety of teas labelled as either lapsang souchong or zheng shan xiao zhong. Some of these have a smoky character, and some do not. The Chinese online encyclopedia Baike entry and books from the China Tea Museum in Hangzhou recognize further divisions , including smoky souchong and zheng shan xiao zhong. The Baike article explains the distinction as zheng (having a meaning of “authentic” or “accurate” or “proper”) shan xiao zhong comes from within a specific set of geographic coordinates and is processed according to the accepted, traditional Tong Mu village method. The Tea Museum classification system suggests a potentially different use of terms.

The Baike entry implies that a lapsang souchong could be harvested within the designated coordinates and be processed “authentically,” but still result in a smoky or non-smoky tea. The Tea Museum classification system simply implies there is zheng shan xiao zhong, and then there is smoky xiao zhong. So that means that Mary Lou, Hartley, and the rest of us may not use the same terms in the same way. Drawing from Mary Lou’s direct quotes below, I found her use of “Lapsang Souchong” to include, but not be limited to, the following: “To us (i.e. TeaTrekker.com), Lapsang Souchong is a specific category of smoked tea which includes Zheng Shan Xiao Zhong.” “…two styles of Lapsang Souchong are made – the original Lapsang Souchong named Zheng Shan Xiao Zhong (from the Tong Mu Qi Lan sub-varietal) and the Lapsang Souchongs for export (made from other tea bush sub-varietals).” Export Lapsang Souchong “… is also made in the same smoking sheds.

Export Lapsang Souchong “… is made using different tea bush sub-varietals grown in various villages located on Tong Mu mountain, and from which is produced the more highly smoked, export-style…” ‘non-smoky’ Lapsang Souchong is “… not Lapsang Souchong tea as this transliterated term has generally been defined over the last 50 years in the West.” Since Hartley and Mark T. Wendell source their lapsang souchong from Taiwan, he seems to use the name in a broader, more generalized fashion than Mary Lou. Mary Lou’s and Hartley’s responses below reveal what characteristics, if any, are essential components of accepted lapsang souchong. Why are some versions of Lapsang Souchong smoky, and some not? Mary Lou: To us, Lapsang Souchong is a specific category of smoked tea which includes Zheng Shan Xiao Zhong. These teas are made in Tong Mu village in the Wu Yi Shan region of Fujian Province. Other black teas made in this region are different because they are not made in the smoking sheds. We have had the opportunity to visit the Lapsang Souchong smoking sheds on Tong Mu Mountain.

We learned that two styles of Lapsang Souchong are made – the original Lapsang Souchong named Zheng Shan Xiao Zhong (from the Tong Mu Qi Lan sub-varietal) and the Lapsang Souchongs for export (made from other tea bush sub-varietals). It was here that we encountered and tasted Zheng Shan Xiao Zhong for the first time. This is a lightly smoked tea made from fresh leaf grown in the original tea gardens of Xingcun village. For Zheng Shan tea, the fresh leaf receives a light smoking over pine wood in the smoking sheds. Recently, some teas from the same area have been marketed as ‘non-smoky’ Lapsang Souchong as a way to acknowledge origin while distancing these teas from their smoky cousins. However, they are not Lapsang Souchong tea as this transliterated term has generally been defined over the last 50 years in the West. Calling these teas ‘non-smoky’ Lapsang Souchong is unnecessarily confusing, because Lapsang Souchong has traditionally been made in the smoking sheds of Tong Mu Mountain.

Anyone who has been inside the smoking facility at Tong Mu will never forget how intensely saturated those old wooden sheds are with an accumulation of wood smoke smell from decades and decades of use. These buildings simply could not produce a non-smoky tea. The strong, tarry, and sometimes overwhelming tea that is made for export and sold simply as Lapsang Souchong is also made in the same smoking sheds. This tea is made using different tea bush sub-varietals grown in various villages located on Tong Mu mountain, and from which is produced the more highly smoked, export-style Lapsang Souchong. This tea is exposed to more smoke, or a more dense smoke in the smoking sheds and is made after the manufacture of Zheng Shan Xiao Zhong is completed for the year. Unfortunately, interest in Zheng Shan Xiao Zhong may suffer in the West from confusion based on potential association with the stronger Lapsang Souchong tea. Zheng Shan Xiao Zhong is a very delicious tea – it has a polite delicacy with just a hint of smoke.

The leaf is small and thin, the finished tea may have tip or not, and the taste is reminiscent of qualities that I find in other eastern China black teas – fruit, mineral, sweetness and a complete lack of astringency. The balance of tea taste to smoke is in favor of tea taste, a quality that requires skillful tea manufacture to achieve. Hartley: All traditional Lapsang Souchong teas should be smoky in character, although the scent moderates over time and some less smoky ones may fade to a very subtle flavor. What are the more traditional tastes or characteristics of the tea? Have they been changed or modified much over the years? Hartley: The characteristic of any tea will depend on the combinations of bush husbandry, microclimate, weather, soil type, elevation, season, and plucking. In Lapsang’s case, smoking time and wood type would also be a factor. For sure all these factors will vary with time – not to mention the actual style of the tea maker in the factory. I am not sure one could deduce any trends or patterns to the changes over the years. Heiss: We learned that the original Zheng Shan Xiao Zhong was a delicately smoked tea.

The heavily smoked Lapsang Souchong teas that we know today were first made as an export product to the West. We began selling tea 38 years ago and had among our offerings a Lapsang Souchong that was typical for the time. Since then, the top quality export grades of Lapsang Souchong have become better (the leaf is more uniform and of a larger, whole leaf size) and the lower grades have become less desirable. Zheng Shan Xiao Zhong has only become available in the US during the last ten years. Tea enthusiasts who have a history of drinking Lapsang Souchong still prefer the more highly-smoked style. Further, we find that fans of Zheng Shan Xiao Zhong do not tend to like the export grade, smokier Lapsang Souchongs. Does it matter which varietals (or sub- varietals) are used to make the tea? Why or why not? Hartley: All Chinese and Formosa Lapsang Souchong teas are made from Camellia Sinensis, var. Sinensis. This is a smaller leafed version than var.

Assamica, although there are many (>200) local sub-varieties, which are used for specific types of Chinese teas including Lapsangs. Assamica and African hybrid varietals are too harsh in taste for Chinese style teas. Mary Lou: When we are purchasing Zheng Shan Xiao Zhong we like to know that it was made from the Tong Mu Qi Lan sub-varietal. Export-style Lapsang Souchong can be made from several local Tong Mu Mountain sub-varietals, or even leaf brought in from other tea growing regions. As long as the taste is right and the grade is what we want (unlike our criteria for other types of tea where we are very specific about sub-varietal) we don’t feel that knowing the exact sub-varietal adds anything to the decision-making process for this tea. How is it graded or evaluated? Are higher grades smokier or less smoky? Hartley: Lapsangs are mostly graded on leaf appearance, subtlety and sophistication of the smokiness, including strength and the type of wood used. There is very little comparative grading that occurs, with most teas standing on their own merits regardless of what the next village factory produced.

Mary Lou: Over the years we have seen in some seasons more than 12 grades of export Lapsang Souchong offered to us. The top grades have larger leaves and offer more tea flavor to smoke flavor. They are also more costly. As one tastes down through the less expensive grades of these teas the taste becomes harsh and more strongly slanted to the smoke flavor. We are only aware of a couple of grades of Zheng Shan and they are very similar one to another. As with most manufactures of high repute, the factory at Tong Mu only puts out on offer tea that will reflect well on the facility and be a consistent tea drinking experience. What characteristics would you look for when choosing a Lapsang Souchong? Hartley: Each spring when we look to procure our signature Formosa Lapsang Souchong, Hu-Kwa, from our source in Northern Taiwan, we look for yearly consistency. We require a bold leaf that is reasonably well rolled and conditioned to look attractive. Although we like to have background black tea notes, we look for a fairly strong and aromatic smokiness, without an ashy (over smoked) or harsh (wood was too wet) flavor.

Some types of pine woods used can give a very harsh flavor. To pinpoint the characteristics, strong but smooth would be the best way to put it. Our customers are used to this flavor profile. It is one that varies from a “tarry” Chinese Lapsang Souchong standard. Mary Lou: When tasting Zheng Shan Xiao Zhong, we look for flavor more than smoke, elegance, aroma, leaf-size and overall good taste. We do not want an aggressive taste or strong smoke in the cup. Our export style Lapsang Souchong, on the other hand, needs to have a certain assertiveness and deep smoke, while at the same time showing a quality pluck in the leaf. JW: As Hartley and Mary Lou show, there are some variations in what each of us may mean when we speak of lapsang souchong. Hartley’s comes from Taiwan. Mary Lou distinguishes between the familiar Western version, and the traditional Chinese versions. Both recognize the value and enjoyment that can be found in the several versions of lapsang souchong. Thanks to both of my contributors. Compare teas with others on the Scoresheet . Walker Tea Review- a tea blog with tea reviews and tea tastings.

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Question: Souchong is a black variety of what?
Answer: Tea