Growing Butternut Squash: How To Grow Butternut Squash Plants Image by Serenethos By Jackie Rhoades Butternut squash plants are a type of winter squash . Unlike its fellow summer squashes , it is eaten after it reaches the mature fruit stage when the rind has become thick and hardened. It’s a great source of complex carbohydrates and fiber as well as high in potassium, niacin, beta carotene and iron. It stores well without refrigeration or canning and each vine will yield from 10 to 20 squash if properly maintained. How to grow butternut squash in the home garden is both easy and rewarding if you follow just a few basic steps. Planting Butternut Squash The butternut squash growing season begins when all danger of frost is past and the soil is well warmed by the sun, about 60 to 65 F. (15-18 C.) at a 4-inch depth. Butternut squash plants are extremely tender and the seedlings will freeze with the slightest frost and seeds will only germinate in warm soil. Like most other vining vegetables, butternut squash cultivation begins with a hill.

Draw your garden soil into a hill about 18 inches high. This allows the soil to heat around the seeds and roots. Your soil should be well amended and well fertilized since butternut squash plants are heavy feeders. Plant five or six seeds per hill about 4 inches apart and 1 inch deep. Keep the soil moist, but not soggy. In about 10 days, the seeds will sprout. When they’re about 6 inches high, thin out the weakest leaving three plants per hill. The butternut squash growing season is about 110-120 days for fruit maturation, so if your season is short, it’s best to start your seeds indoors to give them a head start. To grow butternut squash indoors, you’ll need to start about six weeks before the last frost in your area. Plant as you would most vegetables, in good soil in a sunny window or greenhouse and transplant to the garden after all danger of frost is past. Please remember to harden off the seedlings before transplanting. Growing Butternut Squash Butternut squash cultivation takes up a great deal of space in the home garden. Each hill should have at least fifty square feet for growing.

Butternut squash seeds can send out vines up to 15 feet long. Fertilize well throughout the butternut squash growing season. Regular feeding will produce the most abundant crop as will keeping the hills weed free. Butternut squash cultivation should be done by hand or with a hoe. Don’t cultivate too deeply since the roots are shallow. Watch carefully for bugs and when the need arises, use insecticidal soap or apply insecticides in the evening when the bees have returned to the hive since bees are essential to growing butternut squash successfully. Your squash will be ready for harvesting when the skin turns hard and is difficult to pierce with your thumbnail. Butternut squash can be roasted or boiled and makes a particularly tasty substitute for pumpkin in pie. Once you know how to grow butternut squash, the possibilities are endless and your neighbors and friends will appreciate sharing your bounty. How to grow squash / RHS Gardening Recipes Grow Two weeks before planting or sowing seed outdoors, make planting pockets 90cm (3ft) apart for bush plants of summer squashes and 1.5m (5ft) for trailing plants of summer squashes.

Do this by making a hole about a spade’s depth, width and height and fill with a mixture of compost or well-rotted manure and soil. Sprinkle a general fertiliser over the soil. Plant one plant on top of each planting pocket. For indoor-raised seedlings, plant outside on top of your planting pocket in early June, hardening off (acclimatising) before doing so. Do this by moving them into a coldframe for a week or, if you don’t have a coldframe, move plants outdoors during the day, then bring in at night for a week. The following week leave them out in a sheltered spot all day and night. You can also grow summer squashes in growbags or containers at least 45cm (18in) wide. Plant one or two per growbag, or one per container. Keep the soil constantly moist by watering around the plants, not over them. As they need plenty of water, sink a 15cm (6in) pot alongside the plants when planting out. Water into this and it will help ensure the water goes right down to the roots and does not sit around the neck of the plant, which can lead to rotting.

Feed every 10-14 days with a high potash liquid fertiliser once the first fruits start to swell. The fruit of pumpkins should be supported off the soil on a piece of tile or glass. Common problems Powdery Mildew: Appears as a white powdery deposit over the leaf surface and leaves become stunted and shrivel. Remedy: Keep the soil moist, grow in cool locations, and spray using plant and fish oils or sulphur-based controls. More info on Powdery Mildew No fruit, or fruit rotting when very small: This is a physiological problem, caused by the growing conditions, not a pest or disease. It is a problem when the weather in early summer is cool and this causes inadequate pollination. Remedy: This is usually a temporary problem and once the weather starts to improve, so will pollination. You can try to hand-pollinate plants yourself by removing a male flower (no swelling at their base) and brushing the central parts against the centre of a female flower (female flowers have a swelling at the base – this is the beginning of the fruit). But this is a bit of a hassle, and normally the plant will correct this problem itself.

Grey mould: Can be a problem in densely sown crops, especially ‘cut and come again’ veg crops. Seedlings suddenly collapse. This is a problem normally in wet conditions, and is usually worse on weak or damaged plants. The mould usually enters through a wound but, under the right conditions, even healthy plants will be infected. You will see fuzzy grey mould on affected buds, leaves, flowers or fruit. Infected plant parts eventually shrivel and die. Remedy: Sow thinly and when conditions are warm. Hygiene is very important in preventing the spread of grey mould. If you see it, remove the infected material and destroy. Grey mould is encouraged by overcrowding, so make sure you plant your seedlings, plants and squashes at the appropriate distance apart. No fungicides are approved for use by amateur gardeners against grey mould. Products containing plant and fish oil blends may be used but are unlikely to have much impact. More info on Grey mould Harvesting Harvest summer squashes when the fruit is still quite small. For winter squashes for overwintering, let the fruit mature on the plant and remove before the first frost strikes.

Recipes Masterchef’s Greg Wallace uses a pumpkin as a bowl for a delicious squash fondue - great for parties. Varieties ‘Crown Prince’: (Winter squash) A recognisable trailing squash with blue skin, orange flesh and a sweet, nutty flavour. Yields are good and it stores well over winter. ‘Cobnut’ AGM: (Winter squash) An early ripening butternut variety. It has large, ridged fruits with a small seed cavity. Ideal for roasting or making soups. ‘Sunburst’ F1: (Summer squash) This bright yellow squash has a nutty flavour and a scalloped shape, and is best harvested when it is about 5-6cm in diameter. Grow and treat as you would a courgette. ‘Peter Pan’ AGM: (Summer squash) A uniform crop of light green, scallop-shaped fruits which should be harvested when small. ‘Jemmer’ AGM: (Summer squash) A hybrid offering good yield of bright, light yellow cylindrical fruits. Vigorous, healthy, upright plants with fruits that are easy to see and pick; also recommended as a courgette.

'Baby Bear': (Summer squash) Flattened orange fruit and very tasty seeds. ‘Eight Ball’ AGM: (Summer squash) A good yield of round, green fruits; easy to see and pick from the compact, upright plants. ‘Clarion’ AGM: (Summer squash) Healthy plants produce a high yield of attractive cylindrical fruits that are a mottled light green. Useful for stuffing if left to grow bigger. How to Grow Pumpkins - Growing Pumpkins and Squash | Gardeners.com How to Grow Pumpkins By David Grist When I started working at Gardener's Supply in the 1990s, my Vermont backyard was pretty green—with grass. Today, there's just a tiny bit of the original lawn left. Most of the available space has given way to trees, shrubs, perennials, annuals and stonework. Watch a slideshow of my garden in Burlington, VT. In addition to my work at Gardener's Supply, I work in the gardening division at Church Hill Landscapes . In that role, I maintain dozens of gardens and learn a lot in the process. I believe that all gardening is good gardening.

Pumpkins Although some pumpkins grow on long vines that extend more than 20 feet, there are compact varieties that fit nicely in smaller gardens. LET this be the year that you carve a jack-o-lantern that you grew in your own backyard. Pumpkins are not difficult to grow – even in raised beds or containers. Start with a classic orange one or try something different. Today, you can find pumpkins that are yellow, white, blue-gray, green-striped — even oddballs like Black Futsu, a 3 to 5-pounder with knobby skin. Do You Have Enough Room? Pumpkins grow on long vines – some extending 20 feet or more. If you're planting in a raised bed or garden, choose a spot where vines have room to ramble. In a raised bed, plant pumpkins near the edge of the bed so you can train the vine over the edge, leaving the rest of the bed for other plants. When the plants are young, it's easy to direct the vines where you want them, but you'll want to leave them be once the vine starts flowering and setting fruit. If you don't have a lot of space, consider a smaller variety, such as Jack Be Little.

The bright orange fruits are inedible, but they sure are cute. Another option: look for "pie pumpkins" or "sugar pumpkins," which have a more compact growth habit. These dual-use pumpkins are good for carving and eating. Unlike large pumpkins, these 4- to 6-pounders have flesh that's sweeter and less stringy. To save even more space, consider using a Cucumber Trellis with one of the smaller varieties of pumpkin. When to Plant On the seed packet, you'll find the number of days to maturity, which will help you select a variety that has time to grow and ripen during your growing season. For instance, if the variety you're considering needs 110 days to mature, make sure you have enough time between your average first and last frost dates . Like tomatoes and peppers, pumpkins thrive in warm weather, so don't plant outside until the weather has settled and there's no chance of frost. This seedling was started indoors and transplanted outdoors after three weeks. At planting time, it is covered with garden fabric to protect the seedling against cucumber beetles . Pumpkin seeds can be planted outdoors or indoors.

Gwenael Engelskirchen, who tests new varieties for High Mowing Seeds , prefers to start them inside — about three weeks before ideal outdoor planting weather arrives. A good way to estimate the indoor planting date: Find out your average last frost date and back up three weeks. "By putting a healthy transplant (instead of a seed) into the ground, you are further along in your growing and have that much more insurance that you'll get a successful crop." Pumpkin seeds germinate and grow quickly. Start with a 2" to 3" pot, such as a biodegradable pot , which can be transplanted right into the ground. Plant two seeds per pot and snip one of the seedlings when it's clear which one is thriving most. You will also need light. About 12 hours in a south-facing window is ideal. Even better, grow the seedlings under lights or in a greenhouse. The goal is to grow a seedling that's large — but not too large — when it's safe to plant outdoors. A sturdy seedling that's 3 to 3 1/2" tall with two or more sets of "true leaves" is just right.

If grown indoors too long — or in too large a pot — the plants will be unwieldy and difficult to transplant. If you grow pumpkins, watch out for this pest, the cucumber beetle (Acalymma vittatum). These quarter-inch bugs have black heads and three black stripes on the back. They are found in the U.S from the east coast to the Rocky Mountains. Be Ready for Beetles and Borers When it comes to pests, cucumber beetles are the most common. Despite the name, cucumber beetles love pumpkin foliage. Small seedlings cannot survive an attack, so it's best to protect them at transplant time. Engelskirchen recalls a set of pumpkin seedlings that was planted one day and defoliated the next morning. To prevent problems, she covers the plants with garden fabric at planting time and leaves it in place until the plants start to flower — about three to four weeks. At that point, the fabric should be removed for the season, so pollinators have access to the blossoms. More information on pumpkin pests and diseases: Vegetable MD Online, Cornell Cooperative Extension . Go Local A rich source of pumpkin-growing wisdom can be found right in your neighborhood.

Make contact with your county cooperative extension service , where there are gardeners who can tell you which varieties are known to perform well in your area — and what pests and diseases to watch for. Many enthusiastic pumpkin growers are happy to give advice. And, if you're up to the challenge of growing a "giant pumpkin," read the article How to Grow a Giant Pumpkin , which covers the basics. Pumpkins 101 Pumpkins are actually a type of winter squash. Many varieties can send out vines that are 10 to 20 feet long, which can be challenging for a raised-bed garden. One option is to grow them on a trellis, such as the Cucumber Trellis . Use a mesh bag or fabric to help support especially heavy fruit. Another technique is to plant them on an outside corner of your raised bed and let the vines ramble onto the grass. Like summer squash, winter squash need rich soil that's been amended with compost. They need warm weather and warm soil to grow and produce well. In most cases, it takes 90 to 100 days from planting seeds until the squash are ripe.

Cold-climate gardeners may want to get an early start by planting seeds indoors about three weeks before the last spring frost. Plant two seeds per 3" pot, and cut off one if both grow. Transplant into the garden a week or two after the last spring frost. You can warm the soil by covering it with clear plastic, which works better than the traditional black plastic, as long as you seal the edges with soil to contain the heat. Some winter squash and pumpkins — the bigger ones, generally — will only produce a couple of fruit per plant. The seed catalog or seed packet should tell you what to expect. Pumpkins are always fun for kids, but not always good for pie. If you want jack-o-lanterns, you can grow any variety; for pies and soups, look for "pie pumpkins" or "sugar pumpkins," which have sweeter, more flavorful flesh. Butternut squash is a high-yielding winter squash and almost the entire fruit is edible. Most other types of squash and pumpkins have thick skins, large interior cavities and lots of seeds. Delicata squash are tasty and just the right for two servings.

Buttercup and acorn squash produce medium-sized fruits and are good for storage, as are most winter squashes. Hubbard squash are great for soup, but often get to be 15 to 20 pounds, which can be too much of a good thing. Harvest your pumpkins and winter squash in the fall, before they can be damaged by frost. Before being stored away, they should be cured in a warm, dry place for several weeks to allow their skin to toughen. Most squash and pumpkins taste better after they've been cured and then stored for a couple weeks, than they do straight from the garden. Store pumpkins and winter squash in a cool, dry indoor room. A temperature of about 60 degrees F. is ideal so some people store them under the bed in an unused bedroom. Winter squash will rot quickly in the cool and humid conditions of a cellar or garage. Share This Article Growing Squash, How to Grow Squash, Planting Squash How to Grow squash Summer Squash—like zucchini, crookneck, and patti pan—are harvested small, while the skins are still soft.

Winter Squash—like butternut, acorn, buttercup, and turban—are left on the vine to ripen, and harvested in the fall. They’re called winter squash because we eat them through the winter, not because you can grow them through the winter. Growing squash is easy, whether you’re growing summer squash, growing zucchini, or growing winter squash. The sizes, shapes, colors and fruit of the vines may vary, but the cultural requirements are the same for each of these cucurbits. Growing Squash Squash Cold Tolerance/Season Squash and other cucurbits are strictly summer vegetables that die at the first touch of frost. If you're growing squash in short-summer gardens, you can start seeds indoors 3 weeks before your last frost date, and set plants out once the soil has warmed up. To start indoors, plant squash seeds ¾” (1.5cm) deep in flats or large-celled 6-packs. Soak the potting soil and place them in a warm place until germination, which should occur in 5-10 days, depending on temperature. Don’t let the soil dry out, but avoid excessive watering—especially in cool weather.

Squash seeds rot in cool, wet soil. If you're growing squash in long-summer gardens, sow seeds directly in hills or rows a week or two after your last frost date. See Planting Squash below for spacing. When temperatures are cool, sow extra seeds. Squash seeds germinate poorly in cool soil. Garden Preparation for Planting Squash Soil Preparation for Growing Squash © …Click IMAGE to Enlarge Squash are heavy feeders, and perform best in soil with ample organic matter. When growing squash, prepare the soil to a depth of 18-20” (46-51cm), or single-dig, and mound soil up into hills to create a deep root zone. Lay down a 2” (5 cm) layer of good garden compost or composted manure when you prepare the lower soil layer. Mix it in, then lay down another 2” (5 cm) layer and mix it in when you prepare the top of the hill. You can also add organic fertilizers and soil amendments at the same time. In the photo above, I've dusted on alfalfa meal, feather meal, greensand, kelp meal, and oyster shell flour.

The amendments are tilled into the soil before planting. If necessary, adjust the soil pH. Optimal pH for growing squash is 6.0-6.5, or a slightly acidic soil. See Changing Soil pH for ways to adjust soil pH. If your soil is lean or you’re short on compost, you can add organic soil amendments, as I have, but it's usually simpler to add a good balanced organic fertilizer like Dr. Earth Organic Tomato, Vegetable, and Herb Fertilizer. Look for one that contains myccorhizae (beneficial fungi) that help fruiting plants like squash assimilate more nutrients from the surrounding soil. Order Dr. Earth Tomato, Vegetable, and Herb Fertilizer: Harvesting Squash Planting Squash Squash are traditionally planted in “hills” of 2-3 plants, with several feet between hills. Growing squash usually have siblings. Some winter squash actually perform better with 1 or 2 other plants a foot or so away than they do when planted separately. Summer Squash Seedlings Just Sprouting © Steve Masley …Click IMAGE to Enlarge Direct Seed Sowing.

If you’re planting squash seeds directly in the ground, sow seeds 1” (2.5cm) deep and 6-8” (15-20cm) apart, in hills spaced 3-5 feet (1-1.6m) apart. Plant 6-8 seeds/hill, and thin to the strongest 2-3 seedlings on each side of the hill when the plants are 3-4” (7.6-10cm) high. Failure to thin will dramatically decrease yields. Planting Squash Plants. If you’re planting squash plants, don’t waste your time—or money—planting leggy plants that are already flowering in the pots. Squash seedlings that are already forming multiple flowers in tiny pots will develop into stunted plants and produce small yields. You’re better off just planting seeds directly, even in short-summer areas. The best stage for planting squash seedlings is after they’ve developed the first set of true leaves, but before they develop the second. When planting squash plants, try to avoid disturbing the roots as you transplant the seedlings. Cucurbits take longer to get established when transplanting disturbs their roots too much.

Squash, like other cucurbits, have a broad, relatively shallow, but extensive root system . Because much of the root system is within the first 12" (30cm) of soil, mulching is critical, expecially in hot climates. Apply a 2-4" (5-10cm) layer of mulch after planting. Squash Plant Spacing Squash plants need a lot of space around them, whether you plant them in deep-dug or raised garden beds, or in conventional hills. Winter squash need more space than summer squash, and vining types need more space than bush types. Plant summer squash 12” (30cm) apart, in hills 3-4 feet (1-1.3m) apart. Give bush varieties 3 feet (1m) between hills, and vining varieties 4 feet (1.3m). Plant winter squash 14-16” (36-41cm) apart, 2 plants/hill, with hills 4-5 feet (1.3-1.6m) apart.

Give bush varieties 4 feet (1.3m) between hills, and vining varieties 5 feet (1.6m). When growing squash, overcrowded conditions promote powdery mildew and other squash diseases, so make sure the plants are spaced properly and have plenty of air circulation around them. Care and Feeding of Squash Watering Growing squash requires regular, steady water, 1-1 ½” (2.5-3.8cm) per week. This is especially important during hot, dry weather. Zucchini 'Raven' at 9 Weeks, Just Starting to Kick In © Steve Masley …Click IMAGE to Enlarge During the first couple weeks after planting, overhead watering is okay for summer vegetables like squash, but water on the foliage of mature squash plants increases fungal diseases like powdery mildew. This is especially true once plants start setting fruit, and defending leaves from pathogens takes a back seat to fruit and seed production. Drip irrigation is best for growing squash, but if you do use overhead sprinkling, do so early in the day so the foliage has time to dry before evening.

Fertilizing Squash Squash are heavy feeders, so even if you build organic soil amendments into the soil when planting squash, they may need a side-dressing of compost, composted manure, or a good organic fertilizer like Dr. Earth Organic Tomato, Vegetable, and Herb Fertilizer at mid-season. Two—Yes, Two—‘Bonbon’ Winter Squash Plants © …Click IMAGE to Enlarge Squash Plant Care Once they’re up and growing, squash don’t take a lot of work. frequent harvesting is the biggest chore for summer squash and zucchini. Watch for signs of disease or pest problems early in the season, and intervene quickly to prevent more severe problems. Cut out old leaves that are overshadowed by larger, newer leaves. They’ll pick up powdery mildew and transmit it to the newer leaves later in the season. When growing squash, older leaves will often take on a tattered, beaten appearance, or grow fuzzy with powdery mildew. This usually won’t affect yields, but you can always cut old leaves off where they join the main stem.

As the vines are growing and spreading, you may want to bury a few nodes (points where side-vines branch from the main vines) under a few inches of soil or mulch. This will encourage rooting from the nodes, so the whole plant doesn't die if a main vine is severed, cut off by squash borers, or the roots get munched by gophers. This is especially important if you're growing squash where squash borers are a problem. This Zucchini was Going Strong until a Gopher Ate the Roots.© Steve Masley (Click IMAGE to Enlarge) Gophers can kill a squash plant quickly by eating the roots. Sudden, severe wilting of the whole plant–as opposed to a single vine–is a sign of gopher damage in the west, where pocket gophers are the bain of gardeners. Lining the beds with wire mesh to keep gophers out and trapping are the best solutions. Know Your Enemies, Click Image to Enlarge When growing squash, control heavy infestations of beetles with floating row covers, or use Squash pests include Spotted or Striped Cucumber Beetles, Squash Bugs, and Squash Borers.

Adult beetles and nymphs chew holes in leaves, and heavy infestations can reduce yields significantly. Dr. Earth Organic Vegetable Garden Insect Killer is a ready-to-use spray that’s a combination of essential oils of rosemary, sesame oil, peppermint, thyme, cinnamon, and garlic. Controls whiteflies, aphids, mites, scale, mealy bugs, sowbugs, pilbugs, earwigs, caterpillars, leafhoppers, beetles, spiders, ants, crickets and other insects. It can be used on edible vegetables up to the day of harvest. It is not persistent, like chemical insecticides, so repeat applications may be necessary to control heavy infestations. These pests don’t just do physical damage to your squash plants, they also transmit diseases, so when growing squash, take measures to keep them from getting out of hand. Timely action early in the season can reduce pest populations and problems for the rest of the summer. Squash Borers are orange moths that lay their eggs near the base of squash plants. Unlike most moths, they fly in the day and are strong flyers. They're sometimes mistaken for wasps because of their shape, daytime activity, and strong, straight-line flight.

The larvae hatch, and burrow into the stems of squash. If you see leaves wilting and dying off suddenly, follow the vine back to the nearest healthy leaf, and look for a fan of stem frass—chewed-up stem shavings—to locate their tunnels. Dig the borer(s) out of the vine with a pocket knife. Try to avoid severing the vine or any digits. If you bury the vine scar under a little soil or mulch and water it, the plant will develop roots from the wound. Butternut squash varieties have harder stems and are resistant to squash borers. Squash vine borers overwinter under vine debris left on the ground, so clearing and composting vines may reduce infestations the next year. Crop rotation is important, but squash vine borers are strong fliers so rotation in small gardens has little impact on these pests. If you're growing squash in an area where squash vine borers are a problem, try these measures: As the vines start to run, bury a few nodes (branches off the main vine) under an inch or two of soil or mulch. This will encourage multiple root systems so the whole plant doesn't die if borers infest one vine.

Use floating row covers to isolate the vines from the moths. Moths emerge in mid-June, when rising heat causes the vines to grow quickly. Covering the vines with row covers prevents borers from finding vines to lay eggs on. Be sure to clear and compost vine debris at the end of the season. Borers overwinter under vine debris. If you have chickens, try a light tilling 2-3" (5-8cm) down, and turn the chickens loose on the plot. They'll find any larvae or pupae exposed by the tilling. How to Grow Butternut Squash | Backyard Gardening Blog How to Grow Butternut Squash Days to germination: 5 to 10 days Days to harvest: 90 to 100 days Light requirements: Full sun Container: Possible in large containers Introduction Butternut is one of many different kinds of winter squash, with a distinctive pale yellow and pear-shaped fruit. Inside, the firm flesh is orange and distinctly sweet. It’s never eaten raw, but the the flesh can be cooked in a variety of ways once the seeds have been scooped out. Baked or roasted is the most common.

Being orange inside, its no surprise that butternut squash is very high in vitamin A. You will also get potassium, vitamin C, manganese and a large dose of fiber. Starting from Seed Butternut squash need warm soil to germinate so you are better off starting seeds indoors, though you can also direct seed outside once the weather warms up. Plant your seeds in larger (3″) seed pots rather than flats, with the seeds about an inch under the soil. You can plant 2 or 3 in each pot, to transplant together in hills. Keep your pots somewhere sunny and warm or they may take a long time to sprout. Get them started around 3 weeks before your last frost date. Each butternut squash plant will produce several large squash, so you won’t likely need more than 3 or 4 plants. Transplanting Your seedlings should go out about 2 weeks after your last frost has passed. Dig your soil to prepare for planting and add fertilizer or compost. Choose a location that will have full sun and allow a lot of space for the vines. Each hill should have 3 feet of space around it.

If you are putting seeds straight into the garden, you’ll be planting them at the same time as you would put out the transplants. They will not germinate or sprout in cold soils. Plant 4 or 5 seeds in a small hill, and thin down to 2 or 3 after they have sprouted. Butternut can be grown upward on a fence or trellis if you don’t want to have vines all through your garden. If you plan on training them up this way, you can plant your seedlings just 2 feet apart. In this case, don’t plant them in little groups, but rather just one plant every 2 feet. Be prepared to add extra support when those large fruits start to grow. Growing Instructions Like cucumbers, squash vines will first have a round of male-only flowers come to bloom before the female ones do. So don’t be alarmed if none of the first blossoms set any fruit. They aren’t supposed to. For plants growing on a trellis, you will have to take care to protect the squash as they get larger. The plant won’t be able to support them up in the air on its own. Various slings or nets can be fashioned by the creative gardener.

Pantyhose, old t-shirts, mesh produce bags can all be used to make a squash hammock. Just tie them to the trellis, not the vines. As the season comes to a close, pinch off any new flowers and remove very young squash. You can help the plant divert its resources to finishing off the larger squash before winter by not letting any new ones get started. Containers Butternut is one of the larger winter squashes and not really ideal for container gardening. A container that is 5 gallons in size or larger would be adequate for 1 plant, though the vines will take up quite a bit more space beyond that. You can trellis container squash, but will have to make sure it is secure as the top-heavy trellis can topple over if it’s just anchored by a pot of soil. Pests and Diseases Healthy butternut squash plants can produce many pounds of food for you, but you will need to take care of them first. They are unfortunately susceptible to a number of potential problems. The broad leaves can be attacked by squash bugs or striped cucumber beetles. Check your plants frequently and pick them off as you find them. They can hide in the blossoms, so look there too.

Insecticide sprays can usually help keep them to a minimum. A tent of mesh over your young plants can protect them, just make sure you remove it when the flowers start to bloom. Vine borers aren’t as obvious and they will eat into the stalks of the plants where you can’t see them. If your plants wilt even thought they are well watered, this is likely the problem. You can use some pesticides before they strike but once they are in your squash plants there is little you can do to save the plants. Bacterial wilt is another possible cause for wilting plants, and it spread by the cucumber beetle. The leaves closest to the infection point will start to wilt first, and the it will spread through the plant. The vines will start to get misshapen and then die outright. You can’t treat wilt so pay close attention to the cucumber beetles in your garden. One last threat is the common powdery mildew. You can get a white “powder” coating on the leaves if you get water on them every time you water the plants. Direct the water at the soil and it should prevent this from developing.

Harvest and Storage On average, each squash will weight around 1 pound and each plant should produce 3 or 4 of them in a season. As a winter squash, you don’t generally pick butternut until it has fully matured. Summer squash like zucchini are different as they can be picked and eaten while young. Watch for your maturity date, and check the fruits with a fingernail. The skin should be tough enough that a nail won’t cut into it. A mature squash will be fine after a light frost, but its best if you can get your harvest in before your frost date. After a frost they won’t store as long though they will still cook up just fine. For squash you are using right away, you can keep them in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. Cooked squash can be frozen but it will lose its firm texture after you thaw it out. To store for a longer period of time, let your squash “cure” out in the sun for a couple of dry afternoons before putting them into storage. You should be able to keep them for a few months in a cool dry place.

83 Responses to “How to Grow Butternut Squash” charles Says: 3 Ways to Grow Butternut Squash - wikiHow Planting Butternut Squash 1 Plant once the soil has warmed. Butternut squash seeds won't germinate in cold soil, so it's necessary to plant them once you're certain the last frost has passed. In warmer climates this could be in mid-spring, and in cooler climates you might have to wait until late spring. If you plant your squash too early, it won't survive. If you want to get a head start, you can start the seeds indoors up to 3 weeks before the last frost. Plant the seeds 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep in seed starter mix in small pots. Keep them moist and warm until the last frost has passed, after which you can transplant them to the garden. 2 Choose a warm, sunny spot to plant the squash. Butternut squash needs full sun and warm conditions to thrive. It will do well in the sunniest spot in your garden. Avoid planting it in the shade, since the squash won't fully ripen without full sunlight. 3 Enrich the soil if necessary.

Butternut squash needs rich, well-draining soil. If your soil is poor, till it to a depth of several inches and mix in plenty of compost. Depending on how many squash plants you're putting in, you may need to prepare a large area to serve as your planting bed. Plan to allot 3 square feet of space per squash plant. 4 Plant the seeds in small hills. Squash grow best when they are planted in soil that has been hilled. Create a hill about 3 inches (7.6 cm) high for each squash plant, leaving at least 3 feet (0.9 m) of space between hills. Dig a hole 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep in the top of each hill and drop in 4-5 squash seeds. Cover the seeds with soil and pat the area lightly. After the seeds sprout, thin them out to leave 2 - 3 sprouts per hill. If you're transplanting squash plants that you started indoors, plant each one on its own hill. Squash vines can either grow along the ground or on a trellis. If you wish to train your squash plants to grow vertically, place a trellis or stake near each hill.

When the vines sprout, wrap them gently around the base of the trellis or stake, and they'll begin growing upward. 5 Lightly mulch the squash beds. Spread some pine straw or another light mulch over the squash beds to protect the growing plants. Method Caring for Butternut Squash 1 Water the squash plants regularly. Keep the soil moist throughout the summer by watering the squash every few days. When the soil looks like it's getting a little dry, give the squash beds a thorough soaking. Water at the base of the plants, rather than getting the leaves wet, to prevent powdery mildew and sunburn. 2 Eat the early squash blossoms. The first blossoms the squash plants produce are male, and eating them won't affect the health of the plants. If you'd like, pinch off the yellow blossoms and add them to salads or stir-fries. Otherwise, they'll naturally fall off about a week after they bloom. The second set of flowers produced by the plants are female, and they grow just above the tiny squash fruits. Leave the female flowers on the vines. [1] 3 Keep pests away.

Squash plants don't usually become attractive to pests until the end of the growing season, when the plants have almost reached the end of their life cycle anyway. If your squash plants become infested by squash bugs, striped cucumber beetles or squash borers while the growing season is still in full throttle, you may need to take measures to get rid of them. If you see squash bugs or cucumber beetles on the leaves of the squash plants, pick them off by hand. Vine borers attack the plants inside the stalks. Unfortunately, once they attack, there's not much you can do to save the plants. [2] Method Harvesting Butternut Squash 1 Wait until the squash are fully ripe. When you can press your fingernail into a squash without denting its surface, that means the squash are ripe. It's important to wait until the surface is tough - otherwise, the squash will go bad quickly. 2 Harvest before the first frost of the season. If you wait too long to harvest the squash, and they get exposed to a frost, they will rot more quickly than they would have if you harvested them before the temperature dropped. Plan to harvest them before the weather turns. 3 Cut the squash from the vines.

Use a sharp knife to cut them from the vines, leaving a few inches of stem intact. Take them inside right away and rinse the dirt from their surfaces. There's no need to leave them outside to cure. 4 Store the squash. Fully mature butternut squash will keep for months in storage. Store your squash in a cool, dry place and enjoy it all winter long. When you're ready to enjoy your squash, read the following articles to find out more: Updated: Views: 86,707 "I was looking for directions last fall for harvesting my butternut squash, for best time of ripening, and for long-term storage. I found this article informative and followed the directions. In fact, our butternuts held up so well over the winter & spring months that we just cooked up our last butternut the first week in June (and it was very delicious!), nearly a full 9 months after harvesting. I am hoping for a much larger crop this year."..." more - Mary Gabriel "Thank you. I've grown my butternut at home. I hope I'll get more harvest with this article.

I also learned why some squashes from supermarkets go bad earlier than the others."..." more - Mwana Kassim "Great article!! I'm a beginner to growing my own veggies so the simple step-by-step method cleared things up for me that confused me in other articles."..." more - Jorden Cookland A very helpful site that answered our question about male and female flowers better than the RHS site. - Alan Bishop It educated me a lot on how to cultivate butternut on my own. - Veronica Senah The basic pictures were very helpful. - Pete H. Thank you! So very helpful. - R. Roberts Growing pumpkins and winter squash in Minnesota home gardens Extension > Garden > Yard and Garden > Vegetables >Growing pumpkins and winter squash in Minnesota home gardens Growing pumpkins and winter squash in Minnesota home gardens Vincent A. Fritz and Carl J. Rosen Pumpkin, C. pepo Turk's cap squash, C. maxima Pumpkins and winter squash are among the most popular vine crops in the garden. The terms pumpkin and squash can be confusing. Pumpkin pie is often made from squashes, and some large squashes are used ornamentally.

Scientifically speaking these plants are all very closely related members of the cucurbit family, which also includes summer squash, zucchini, and cucumbers. Pumpkins come from two different species Cucurbita pepo (most jack o’lantern and some pie pumpkins) and C. maxima (extremely large pumpkins grown for competition and decoration). Make sure to check variety descriptions carefully when purchasing seed. Pumpkins grown for jack-o’-lanterns are usually not eaten, as the flesh is bland and stringy, although the roasted seeds are good to eat. Pie pumpkins often have smaller, sweeter fruit. Some pumpkin varieties produce “naked” or hull-less seeds especially nice for roasting, since there is no hard shell to crack from the seeds. These seeds have lower germination rates, particularly in cool soil, so they are more difficult to grow. Edible winter squash belong to three different species: Cucurbita pepo (acorn, delicata, and spaghetti types), C. moschata (butternut types), and C. maxima (Hubbard, kabocha, and buttercup types).

Some varieties produce small squashes the right size for individual servings, while others produce enormous fruits of fifteen pounds or more, suitable for soups, pies, mashing, or freezing. Some can be stored through the winter; others should be used within a few weeks after harvest. Choose varieties that suit your tastes as well as your ability to handle and store the squash. While a giant Hubbard squash may be attractive as an autumn decoration, a small household may be unable to utilize it as food. Note the days to harvest for the varieties you are considering. Longer-season varieties may be difficult to ripen properly in parts of Minnesota. Planting Vine crops can be seeded directly in the garden but need warm soils (65°F at 2" soil depth) to germinate properly. In Minnesota planting is typically in late May to early June. Plant pumpkin and winter squash seeds 3/4 inch deep, 24-36 inches apart. Use the closer spacing if the variety is a bush type. Spacing between rows should be 5-6 feet apart. Pumpkins and winter squash can be transplanted to help extend the season in the Northern parts of the state, or to help guarantee a full stand.

Plant seeds into pots or cells at least two inches wide and deep. The seedlings take about four weeks from seeding to transplanting and should have 2-3 true leaves at the time of transplanting. Seedlings started indoors need to be hardened off before being planted in the garden. Transplant pumpkins and winter squash into the soil when soil temperatures reach at least 65°F. Transplants are usually planted after the first flushes of weeds are removed, helping to keep weeding later in the season to a minimum. Pumpkins and winter squash “run” on the ground and take up a lot of space. In small gardens bush-type varieties may be used. Small fruited squash like delicate or acorn can be trained to a trellis to save space. Large fruited squash are too heavy to be trellised and should be grown on the ground. Soil pH and fertility For best yield and quality, the optimum soil pH range for vine crops is between 6 and 6.5, which is slightly acidic. However, most gardeners, even those with neutral or slightly basic ("alkaline") soils can successfully grow pumpkins and winter squash.

Pumpkins and winter squash do well in heavier soils, although more fruit belly rot may occur. The soil should be well drained yet moisture retentive. Nearly all garden soils benefit from the incorporation of well-rotted manure or compost before planting. Adding this organic matter improves both heavy clay soils and lighter sandy soils. Before adding any compost, manure, or fertilizer, a soil test should be performed. Without a test, it is impossible to know how much or which type of fertilizer to apply. In midseason, apply a sidedressing of nitrogen fertilizer, such as ½ cup of 46-0-0 or 1 cup of 27-3-3 for each 25 feet of row. If you use manure or compost, additional fertilizer applications may be reduced or eliminated, depending on how much organic matter you apply. Do not use “Weed and Feed” type fertilizers on vegetables. They contain weed killers that will kill vegetable plants. Continuous use of high phosphorus fertilizer such as 10-10-10 or 15-30-15, or high rates of manure or manure compost results in phosphorus buildup in the soil.

Although phosphate fertilizer applied to soil is bound tightly and resistant to movement in the soil, some runoff may occur. It can then become a major pollution concern in our lakes, rivers and streams. High levels of phosphorus support over-production of algae, which causes significant reduction in water quality (see Preventing Pollution Problems from Lawn and Garden Fertilizers ). If your soil tests high in phosphorus, use a low phosphorus (such as 32-3-10, 27-3-3, or 25-3-12) or no phosphorus (such as 30-0-10 or 24-0-15) fertilizer. Watering Proper watering will enhance good production. Pumpkins and winter squash need at least 1 inch of water from rainfall or irrigation each week during the growing season. Always soak the soil thoroughly when watering. There is little or no value in a light watering that only wets the surface of the soil. Plants that are trellised to grow vertically may require closer monitoring as they will likely require more frequent watering. On most soils, watering once a week is sufficient. Sandy soils should be watered more frequently but with lower amounts applied at any one time.

Controlling weeds Frequent, shallow cultivation with a garden hoe or hand trowel will kill weeds before they become a problem. The roots of vine crops are close to the surface of the soil, so it is important not to cultivate too deeply or too close to the plants. Cultivate just deeply enough to cut the weeds off below the surface of the soil. Continue cultivating as long as you can do so without injuring the vines, usually when the vines begin to spread between the rows. When cultivation is no longer possible, pull large weeds by hand. Harvesting Pick winter squash and pumpkins before a hard freeze. A light frost that kills the vine will usually not harm the fruit. Cut the fruit from the vine, leaving a few inches of stem attached. Be careful not to cut or bruise the fruit. Ideally, the pumpkins and squash should be field-cured in place for a week or two in dry, sunny weather. This dries and toughens the skin for longer storage. Alternatively, if the weather has turned cold or rainy, squash can be cured indoors, in a warm (80°F), well-ventilated space.

Because squashes and pumpkins used as autumn decorations are subject to cold, wet weather, they can easily spoil. Monitor the condition of the fruits and discard when they start to show signs of rot, as they can quickly disintegrate and become a foul-smelling mess on the front step. Storage Winter squash should be stored in a cool but not cold place, ideally around 55°F, with good air movement. Relative humidity between 50% and 75% is best. Check squash in storage frequently and remove any that are soft or show signs of spoilage. Remember to treat them gently. If appropriate storage is not available, squash can be cooked and mashed, then frozen . Canning of mashed or pureed squash is not recommended because of the density of squash in the jars; it’s nearly impossible for the heat of the canning process to penetrate to the center of the jar. Common problems Poor fruit set could be due to improper pollination. Pollination may be hindered by cold rain and cloudy weather. Tasteless fruit could be due to dark, cloudy weather, or disease. Many varieties have separate sexes in flowers. This characteristic is referred to as a monoecious flowering habit.

Blossom drop of male flowers is, to some extent, normal because only the female flowers produce fruit. Female flowers can be identified by the swollen ovary at the base of the flower. Insects Squash bugs feed on foliage and can harm young plants. Squash vine borers can kill plants as they tunnel through the vines. Wilting vines is probably the first symptoms you will notice. Striped cucumber beetles damage plants by eating leaves as well as stems and fruit. They are also a potential vector of bacterial wilt. Diseases Powdery mildew is a common problem on pumpkins and winter squash. This fungus can be seen as a white fuzzy growth on leaves in late summer. The fungus robs nutrients from the plant, reduces yield and in some cases can even kill the plant. Plant powdery mildew resistant or tolerant varieties and promote good air movement around plants by controlling weeds and using proper plant spacing. Edited by Terrance Nennich 2009

Question: The butternut squash/pumpkin grows directly on a?
Answer: Vine