Ceriman Morton, J. 1987. Ceriman. p. 1517. In: Fruits of warm climates. Julia F. Morton, Miami, FL. Ceriman Other Uses Of the many aroids (members of the family of Araceae) that are cultivated as ornamental plants, only this one has been grown as well for its fruit. The ceriman, Monstera deliciosa Liebm. (syn. Philodendron pertusum Kunth & Bouche), is often called merely monstera and, inappropriately, false breadfruit. Because of the apertures in its leaves, some have called it Swiss-cheese plant, or hurricane plant, suggesting that the holes and slits permit the wind to pass through without damaging the foliage. Generally, in Mexico and other Latin American countries it is known as pinanona, or pina anona, but in Venezuela it is called ojul or huracan; in Colombia, hojadillo; in Guatemala, harpon or arpon comun.

In Guadeloupe it is caroal, liane percee, or liane franche; in Martinique, siguine couleurre; in French Guiana, arum du pays or arum troud. In Brazil it is catalogued by a leading nursery as ananas japonez (Japanese pineapple). Fig. 4: The ceriman (Monstera deliciosa) in flower and fruit at Palm Lodge Tropical Grove, Homestead, Fla. In: J.F. Morton, Some Useful and Ornamental Plants of the Caribbean Gardens, 1955. Description The plant is a fast-growing, stout, herbaceous vine spreading over the ground and forming extensive mats if unsupported, but climbing trees to a height of 30 ft (9 m) or more. The stems are cylindrical, heavy, 2 1/2 to 3 in (6.25-7.5 cm) thick, rough with leaf scars, and producing numerous, long, tough aerial roots.

The leathery leaves, on stiff, erect, flattened petioles to 3 1/2 ft (105 cm) long, are oval, cordate at the base, to 3 ft (90 cm) or more in length and to 2 3/4 ft (82.8 cm) wide; deeply cut into 9-in (22.8 cm) strips around the margins and perforated on each side of the midrib with elliptic or oblong holes of various sizes. Several inflorescences arise in a group from the leaf axils on tough, cylindrical stalks. The cream colored spadix, sheltered at first by a waxy, white, calla-lily-like spathe, develops into a green compound fruit 8 to 12 in (20-30 cm) or more in length and 2 to 3 1/2 in (5-8.75 cm) thick, suggesting an ear of corn. The thick, hard rind, made up of hexagonal plates or "scales", covers individual segments of ivory-colored, juicy, fragrant pulp much like diced pineapple.

Between the segments there are thin, black particles (floral remnants). Generally there are no seeds, but sometimes, pale-green, hard seeds the size of large peas, may occur in a dozen or so of the segments. Origin and Distribution The ceriman is native to wet forests of southern Mexico, Guatemala and parts of Costa Rica and Panama. It was introduced into cultivation in England in 1752; reached Singapore in 1877 and India in 1878. Specimens of the fruit were exhibited by the Massachusetts Horticultural Society in 1874 and 1881. It has become familiar as an ornamental in most of the warm countries of the world and is widely used in warm and temperate regions as a potted plant indoors,especially in conservatories and greenhousesthough it does not bloom nor fruit in confinement. In Guatemala, it is raised in pots in patios to prevent too rampant growth, as it is apt to become an aggressive nuisance. The fruits are marketed to some extent in Queensland and, in the past, were sometimes shipped from Florida to gourmet grocers in New York and Philadelphia. Propagation In some European nurseries, the ceriman is raised from imported seed.

Rapid multiplication has been achieved through tissue culture in Denmark. Generally, propagation is by means of stem cuttings, which may be simply set in beds or pots in the ground where the vine is intended to grow. Suckers or offshoots, with or without roots, can be separated from parent plants and transplanted successfully. Mulching is desirable as well as watering until new roots have become well-established. Culture Suckers will fruit in 2 to 4 years; cuttings in 4 to 6 years, depending on the location, soil and attention given. Out-of-doors, the ceriman requires little care. If it is desired to expedite growth and fruiting, a complete fertilizer may be applied 3 or 4 times a year. Indoor plants need frequent repotting to accommodate the root system, and they should be set outside at least once a year in direct light. Season Flowering and fruiting overlap because it requires 12 to 14 months from the opening of the inflorescence to the maturity of the fruit. Therefore, there are often unopened inflorescences, immature fruits and ripening fruits together on the same plant.

The current year's crop is ripening through summer and fall while the following year's crop is forming beside it. Harvesting The rind is always green though it assumes a lighter shade as the fruit matures. The fruit, with at least an inch (2.5 cm) of stem, should be cut from the plant when the tile-like sections of rind separate slightly at the base, making it appear somewhat bulged. At this state, the fruits have been shipped to local or distant markets. If kept at room temperature, the ceriman will ripen progressively toward the apex over a period of 5 or 6 days. The flesh should be eaten only from that portion of the fruit from which the rind segments have so loosened as to be easily flicked off. To ripen the whole fruit at one time, it should be wrapped in paper or plastic, or possibly aluminum foil, as soon as cut from the plant and kept at room temperature until the rind has loosened the entire length of the fruit. At this stage, it will be found that the flesh also falls easily away from the inedible core. Once ripened, the fruit can be kept in the refrigerator in good condition for a week or a little more.

Rinsing off the floral remnants improves the appearance of the flesh, but it does cause some loss of juice. Pests and Diseases When grown indoors, the plants are subject to infestation by scale insects, mites and mealybugs. Outdoors, they are usually pest-free. However, in dry seasons in Florida, the lubber grasshopper (Romalea microptera) has rapidly consumed entire leaves, leaving only the base of the midrib and the petiole. In India, wire cages are placed around developing fruits to protect them from rats, squirrels, monkeys and other creatures. The following diseases have been recorded in Florida: leaf spot caused by Leptosphaeria sp., Macrophoma philodendri, Phytophthora sp., and Pseudomonas cichorri; anthracnose from Glomerella cingulata; bacterial soft rot from infection by Erwinia carotovora; and root rot caused by Pythium splendens and Rhizoctonia solani. Fig. 5: Compound fruit of the ceriman fully ripe, with loose segments of rind removed and flesh separated for eating. Black specks are floral remnants.

Toxicity The oxalic acid, and possibly other unidentified principles, in the unripe fruit, the floral remnants of the ripe fruit, and all parts of the plant, cause oral and skin irritation. Some sensitive individuals claim that even the ripe fruit irritates the throat. It would be well to avoid eating the ceriman in quantity until it is determined that there are no undesirable reactions. Some individuals have experienced urticaria and anaphylaxis after eating ceriman. Some children and adults have reported diarrhea and intestinal gas after consuming the flesh or products made from it. Other Uses The aerial roots have been used as ropes in Peru. In Mexico, they are fashioned into coarse, strong baskets. Medicinal Uses: In Mexico, a leaf or root infusion is taken daily to relieve arthritis. A preparation of the root is employed in Martinique as a remedy for snakebite. Monstera, Split Leaf Philodendron (Monstera deliciosa) Monstera, Split Leaf Philodendron Scientific Name: Monstera deliciosa Liebm.

Synonym: Philodendron pertusum sunset: 16,17,21-27 USDA: 10 Frost Tolerance: Needs frost protection in Phoenix, foliage damaged at 32ï¿½ F (0ï¿½ C), serious damage at 30ï¿½ F (-1ï¿½ C) Sun Exposure: Filtered shade Origin: Mexico to South America Growth Habits: Evergreen vines Watering Needs: Regular water Propagation: Propagation is possible by stem cuttings (they will root in water), or seeds This Central American plant has been more widely cultivated as an ornemental than as a fruit plant, but its edible qualities are well known. Monstera is a vigorous, creeping or climbing vine with thick stems and heart shaped leaves often 2 feet wide and 3 feet long (60 by 90 cm) in tropical climates (in Phoenix, 1 foot by 1.5 foot is more usual - 30 by 45 cm). The leaves are both deeply lobed and perforated near the center. Cultural Practices: Avoid direct sun and keep it above 30 degrees (which is relatively easy if it is in a sheltered place).

The plants suffers below 50 degrees. If protected it will survive Phoenix winters. When growing outside, if the conditions are right, the Monstera might start blooming 3 years after being planted. The edible fruit ripens one year after blooming. It is important to wait until the fruit is ripe, that is that the green rind knocks off easily, to taste it. Before that the fruit contains enough oxalic acid to be painfully caustic. Blooming Habits: The flowers, which are like huge arum lilies, appear on short thick stems during the summer if the humidity conditions are good. The central spadix develops into a cylindrical dark green fruit 8 to 10 inches long (20 to 25 cm) and 2 to 3 inches in diameter (5 to 7.5 cm). Fruiting Habits: Propagation: The monstera may be propagated by seeds, but seedlings are slow in development. Tip cuttings are more rapid, and these may be set in the permanent location if the temperature is warm enough.

Where a number of plants are desired, the vine may be divided into 1-foot sections (30 cm), which are pressed halfway into the surface of a bed of mixed leafmold and sand. When the sprouts have developed roots, they may be transplanted to the permanent location. Sponsors: We do get a small commission out of these sponsors that helps financing the website. Let us know if you are satisfied or dissatisfied of their services, since obviously we are trying to advertise only for reputable garden supply companies. They might be helpful to get plants not generally available at the local garden center, getting a new and unusual gardening tool or get a discount Better Homes and Gardens magazine subscription. Desert Tropicals Home Page | List of All the Plants | More in the Araceae family | Tell your friends about this page Desert-Tropicals is dedicated to provide gardening advice, gardening ideas, and information about flower of all kind for landscape and collections. We try to check carefully the identification of the plants on the illustrations as well as the other information from the page, but occasionally errors do occur. if you notice anything that needs to be changed please contact us. Thanks.

ï¿½ 1998-2005 Philippe Faucon, All Rights Reserved. Monstera deliciosa - Ceriman, Windowleaf, Split-leaf philodendron care Monstera deliciosa is a popular foliage houseplant easily recognized by its large glossy leaves that are dissected with deep splits and perforated with oblong holes. In nature, Monstera is an evergreen liana that climbs high into the rain forest canopy, attaching itself to trunks and branches and supporting itself above the ground with long tentacle-like aerial roots. The aerial roots grow downward out of the thick stem and take root where they touch the ground. The vines are only sparingly branched and a single vine can reach more than 70 (170 cm) in length. The leaves of a young Monstera are heart shaped and without holes. They often overlap and cling closely to a tree trunk, and plants in that stage are called "shingle plants." Older plants develop the characteristic split and perforated adult leaves that stand away from the supporting tree trunk. Monstera occurs naturally in the tropical jungles of Central America from southern Mexico to Panama. Monstera is an easy houseplant to maintain.

It tolerates dry air and semi-shade better than most plants. Add some liquid fertilize to the water every few weeks during the growing season. Direct the aerial roots into the potting medium to improve support for the weak stem. Wipe the dust off the leaves with a damp sponge periodically. Monstera does best in half shade or a moderately bright position, but not in direct sun. Moisture it during active growth, water Monstera plants thoroughly before the soil becomes dry. Water less in winter. Monstera tolerates the dry air typical of most homes fairly well, but it appreciates a little misting when humidity is very low. House plants should not be exposed to temperatures below about 50°F (10°C) in winter or 55°F (13°C) at night in summer. Start new Monsteras by cutting off a tip of stem just below an aerial root and potting the cutting. This can be done any time of the year. All parts of Monstera deliciosa are poisonous except the ripe fruits. The plant contains oxalic acid and even the ripe fruits may be an irritant to particularly sensitive people.

HS1071/HS311: Monstera Growing in the Florida Home Landscape Monstera Growing in the Florida Home Landscape 1 Jonathan H. Crane and Carlos F. Balerdi 2 Scientific Name: Monstera deliciosa Common Names: monstera, ceriman, windowleaf, cut-leaf philodendron, swiss-cheese plant, split-leaf philodendron (English). Family: Araceae Relatives: Numerous species including Monstera lechleriana, M. friedrichsthalii, M. dissecta, and M. pertusa (all ornamental houseplants). Numerous Philodendron species including the common landscape plant P. bipinnatifidum. Origin: Monstera is indigenous to the hot, humid, tropical forests of Mexico, Guatemala, Costa Rica, and Panama. Distribution: Monstera is grown in tropical and warm subtropical areas of the world and in protected culture in temperate areas. History: Monstera was introduced to England in 1752, Singapore in 1877, and India in 1878. The fruit was introduced to the US in 1874.

Importance: The plant is grown more for its ornamental value both in the landscape and as a containerized plant. Description All plant parts contain high levels of oxalic acid. Vine Monstera is a fast growing broadleaf vine with a cylindrical, thick stem 2 to 4 inches (5–10 cm) in diameter that may grow along the ground or, if allowed, will climb onto trees and structures. The vine may exceed 70 ft (21 m) in length if left unpruned. The vine stem is covered with leaf scars from previous leaves and from it develop numerous, long, cord-like aerial roots. Left uncontrolled, the vine may be somewhat invasive i.e., take over the landscape or climb trees. Leaves The heart-shaped leaves are held on stiff, 2-to 3-ft-long (0.6- to 0.9-m) petioles. Leaves are green and large, 3 or more ft long by 2 to 3 ft wide (0.9 m long by 0.6–0.9 m wide), oval, deeply dissected along the margins and perforated on each side of the midrib with elliptic or oblong holes of various sizes.

Inflorescence (Flowers) and Fruit Several inflorescences develop from leaf axils along the cylindrical stem. The inflorescence, called a spike, is made up of numerous perfect flowers (containing male and female parts). The fruit is called a spadix and is made up of numerous cohering berries. At first the spadix is sheltered by a waxy, white, spathe (bract) that later drops off. The compound fruit is cylindrical, green, 8 to 14 inches (20–36 cm) long and 2 to 3 1/2 inches (5–9 cm) in diameter. The peel is thick, hard, and made up of hexagonal plates (scales) that cover individual segments of ivory colored, juicy, flavorful pulp. Among the fruit segments are small, black particles which are the remnants of flowers. Generally, there are no seeds, although sometimes small, pale-green seeds are produced. The time from flowering to fruit maturity ranges from 12 to 14 months. Roots Long, aerial, tentacle-like roots emerge along the vine stem, taking root when they touch the ground.

Varieties Few named monstera varieties exist. There are a number of varieties with variegated leaves including 'Variegata', 'Albovariegata', and 'Marmorata'; however, the quality of their fruit is not known and they may be hard to find in the nursery trade in Florida. Caution: these varieties may not have edible fruit. Climate Monstera grows best in hot, humid, tropical climates, although it will grow and fruit satisfactorily in warm subtropical areas of the world. Plants grow best under light shade (filtered sunlight); intense sun exposure may cause leaf scorching. Monstera is not tolerant of freezing temperatures. Leaves are damaged or killed at 30 to 32°F (-1.0 to 0°C) and stems at 26 to 28°F (-2 to -3°C). In areas that experience cool temperatures, vines grow better if lightly shaded; especially during the winter months. Propagation Monstera may be propagated by seed, stem cuttings, suckers, and tissue culture. Most commonly, monstera is propagated by stem cuttings, which may be rooted first in containers or partially buried in the soil where they are intended to grow.

Plants generated from cuttings may come into bearing in 4 to 6 years, whereas suckers begin fruit production in 2 to 4 years. Production (Crop Yields) The spadix (fruiting spike) takes about a year to mature. Production figures are not available. Spacing and Pruning Monstera vines may become long, 40 or more ft (12 m or more) if left unpruned, and leaves may be held 3 to 4 ft high (0.9–1.2 m). Monstera vines should be planted as an understory plant, i.e., in partial shade of large overhanging trees. Plant vines 20 or more ft (6.1 m or more) away from trees and other plants and electrical poles. Vines will grow onto adjacent trees and structures if not prevented by periodic pruning. Vine growth is easily controlled by cutting the stem and pulling the shallow roots out of the ground. Periodically, vines should be cut back to maintain them in their appropriate space, otherwise they will take over a large part of the landscape.

Soils Monstera are adapted to most well-drained soil types including sandy type soils and the high-pH, calcareous soils in Miami-Dade County. Plants are not tolerant of flooded or excessively wet soil conditions. Planting Monstera Vines Proper planting is one of the most important steps in successfully establishing and growing a strong, productive vine. The first step is to choose a healthy nursery plant. Commonly, nursery monstera vines are grown in 3-gallon (11-liter) containers, and vines may be 2 to 4 ft (0.6–1.2 m) long. Inspect the vine for insect pests and diseases, and inspect the stem of the vine for wounds and constrictions. Select a healthy vine and water it regularly in preparation for planting in the ground. Site Selection Monstera vines grown in full sun are more productive than vines grown in shade. However, the leaves of vines grown in shade are a darker green and more aesthetically pleasing than those grown in full sun. Leaves grown in full sun tend to be light green and may show signs of sun burn (excessive sun exposure).

If fruit production is the primary reason for growing monstera, select a part of the landscape away from other trees, plants, buildings and structures, and power lines. If fruit production is not the primary reason for growing monstera, vines may be grown under the canopy of landscape trees. Whether grown in full sun or shade, monstera vines can become very large if they are not cut back to contain their size. Select the warmest area of the landscape that does not flood (or remain wet) after typical summer rainfall. Planting in Sandy Soil Many areas in Florida have sandy soil. Remove a 3- to 10-ft-diameter (0.9- to 3.1-m) ring of grass sod. Dig a hole 3 to 4 times the diameter and 3 times as deep as the container the monstera vine came in. Making a large hole loosens the soil next to the new vine, making it easy for the roots to expand into the adjacent soil. It is not necessary to apply fertilizer, topsoil, or compost to the hole. In fact, placing topsoil or compost in the hole first and then planting on top of it is not desirable.

If you wish to add topsoil or compost to the native soil, mix it with the excavated soil in no more than a 50-50 ratio. Backfill the hole with some of the excavated soil. Remove the vine from the container and place it in the hole so that the top of the soil media from the container is level with or slightly above the surrounding soil level. Fill soil in around the vine roots and tamp slightly to remove air pockets. Immediately water the soil around the vine roots. Staking the vine with a wooden or bamboo stake is optional. However, do not use wire or nylon rope to tie the vine to the stake because they may eventually damage the vine stem as it grows. Use a cotton or natural fiber string that will degrade slowly. Planting in Rockland Soil Many areas in Miami-Dade County have a very shallow soil, and several inches below the soil surface is a hard, calcareous bedrock. Remove a 3- to 10-ft-diameter (0.9- to 3.1-m) ring of grass sod. Make a hole 3 to 4 times the diameter and 3 times as deep as the container the monstera vine came in.

To dig a hole, use a pick and digging bar to break up the rock or contract with a company that has augering equipment or a backhoe. Plant the vine as described for sandy soils. Planting on a Mound Many areas in Florida are within 7 ft or so of the water table and experience occasional flooding after heavy rains. To improve plant survival, consider planting the monstera vine on a 2- to 3-ft-high by 4- to 10-ft-diameter (0.6- to 0.9-m by 1.2- to 3.1-m) diameter mound of native soil. After the mound is made, dig a hole 3 to 4 times the diameter and 3 times as deep as the container the vine came in. In areas where the bedrock nearly comes to the surface (rockland soil), follow the recommendations for the previous section. In areas with sandy soil, follow the recommendations from the section on planting in sandy soil. Care of Monstera Vines in the Home Landscape A calendar outlining the month-to-month cultural practices for monstera is shown in Table 1. Fertilizer Monstera fertilizer requirements do not appear to be high.

After planting, when new growth begins, apply 1/4 lb (113 g) of a complete dry fertilizer mix with 20 to 30% of the nitrogen from organic sources. A complete mix includes nitrogen, phosphate, potash, and magnesium. Repeat this every 8 weeks for the first year, then gradually increase the amount of fertilizer to 0.5, 0.75, and 1.0 lb (227 g, 341 g, 454 g) but decrease the frequency to 2 to 3 times per year as the vines grow. Application of magnesium and micronutrients such as zinc and manganese may be made in ground applications to vines growing in sandy soil with a low pH (4–7). However, foliar applications of zinc, manganese, and magnesium are more efficacious for vines growing in highly calcareous with a high pH (7–8.5). Micronutrient applications should be made 2 to 3 times per year, generally during the growing season. Iron should be applied in a chelated formulation.

For the calcareous, rocky soils and sandy soils with a high pH, use a chelated iron specifically formulated for high-pH soils. For sandy soils with a low pH, use either a chelated iron specifically formulated for low-pH soils or iron sulfate, or similar materials. Iron should be mixed with water and applied as a soil drench under the vine canopy. Watering Although monstera vines are moderately drought tolerant, especially when grown in the shade, periodic watering during dry periods will result in better growth and larger fruit. Monstera Vines and Lawn Care Monstera vines in the home landscape are susceptible to stem injury caused by lawn mowers and weed eaters. Maintain a grass-free area 2 to 5 or more feet (0.6–1.5 m or more) away from the stem of the vine. Never hit the vine stem with lawn mowing equipment and never use a weed eater near the vine stem. Mechanical damage to the stem of the vine will weaken the vine and, if severe enough, can cause dieback or kill the vine.

Roots of mature monstera vines spread beyond the vine’s leaf canopy, and heavy fertilization of the lawn adjacent to monstera vines is not recommended because it may reduce fruiting and or fruit quality. The use of lawn sprinkler systems on a timer may result in over watering and cause vines to decline. This is because too much water too often applied causes root rot. Mulch Mulching monstera vines in the home landscape helps retain soil moisture, reduces weed problems next to the vine stem, and improves the soil near the surface. Mulch with a 2- to 6-inch (5- to15-cm) layer of bark, wood chips, or similar mulch material. Insect Pests and Diseases In general, monstera plants have no major insect or disease problems. Harvest, Ripening, and Storage Mature fruit ready to harvest turn from green to a lighter green and the tile-like segments at the base of the fruit begin to separate slightly, making it appear somewhat bulged. Fruit may then be cut from the plant, leaving 1 inch or more of the stem.

To ripen the fruit, it keep it at room temperature (78–82°F; 26–28°F) for 5 to 6 days during which time it will ripen from the base toward the apex (top). The pulp should only be eaten from that portion of the fruit that easily falls off the core (stem). This is because immature sections of the fruit contain oxalic acid crystals that cause severe discomfort when swallowed. To ripen the fruit more quickly and evenly wrap the entire fruit in paper, plastic, or aluminum foil. Once ripened, most if not all the pulp will fall from the inedible core. The pulp may be stored for several days in the refrigerator before consumption. Uses In general, monstera is eaten as a fresh fruit, although the pulp may be used as an ingredient in desserts. The fruit contains large amounts of oxalic acid, and it is not recommended to eat large quantities of this fruit at any one time. The nutritional value of the fruit is not documented. Tables 1 Dry fertilizer mix which includes nitrogen, phosphate, potash, and magnesium.

2 In low-pH, acid sandy soils, apply iron sulfate; in high-pH, rockland soils, apply chelated iron. 3 If vines become overgrown, prune the vine during the warm part of the year to allow some new leaf growth. Footnotes 1. This document is HS1071, one of a series of the Horticultural Sciences Department, UF/IFAS Extension. Original publication date February 2005. Revised November 2016. Visit the EDIS website at . 2. Jonathan H. Crane, professor, tropical fruit crop specialist, UF/IFAS Tropical Research and Education Center; and Carlos F. Balerdi, professor, multi-county tropical fruit crops Extension agent (retired), UF/IFAS Extension Miami-Dade County; UF/IFAS Extension, Gainesville, FL 32611. The Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (IFAS) is an Equal Opportunity Institution authorized to provide research, educational information and other services only to individuals and institutions that function with non-discrimination with respect to race, creed, color, religion, age, disability, sex, sexual orientation, marital status, national origin, political opinions or affiliations.

For more information on obtaining other UF/IFAS Extension publications, contact your county's UF/IFAS Extension office. U.S. Department of Agriculture, UF/IFAS Extension Service, University of Florida, IFAS, Florida A & M University Cooperative Extension Program, and Boards of County Commissioners Cooperating. Nick T. Place, dean for UF/IFAS Extension. Monstera deliciosa | Swiss Cheese Plant | Cheese Plant | Split-leaf Philodendron| plant lust Swiss Cheese Plant big leaves broadleaf exotic houseplant tropical looking We love this one too! We'll email you if we can locate your plant in stock and available to ship to your area. We have your location as: SEATTLE, WA Not right? Update your location: HOW MANY ARE YOU INTERESTED IN? + - We have some great partners who have grown this plant! We have your location as: SEATTLE, WA Not right? Show nurseries near: Info Monstera deliciosa is a common South American plant. Commonly used in tropical hot houses it is more commonly known as the swiss cheese plant. Plants usually have heart shaped leaves but as they mature or climb they produce large heart shaped leaves with holes all through the leaves.

A mature plant is very impressive. Monstera plants are climber and this species can grow up over 40 feet or more if given the space. Photo by: Info The plant is a fast-growing, stout, herbaceous vine spreading over the ground and forming extensive mats if unsupported, but climbing trees to a height of 30 ft (9 m) or more. The stems are cylindrical, heavy, 2 1/2 to 3 in (6.25-7.5 cm) thick, rough with leaf scars, and producing numerous, long, tough aerial roots. The leathery leaves, on stiff, erect, flattened petioles to 3 1/2 ft (105 cm) long, are oval, cordate at the base, to 3 ft (90 cm) or more in length and to 2 3/4 ft (82.8 cm) wide; deeply cut into 9-in (22.8 cm) strips around the margins and perforated on each side of the midrib with elliptic or oblong holes of various sizes. Several inflorescences arise in a group from the leaf axils on tough, cylindrical stalks.

The cream colored spadix, sheltered at first by a waxy, white, calla-lily-like spathe, develops into a green compound fruit 8 to 12 in (20-30 cm) or more in length and 2 to 3 1/2 in (5-8.75 cm) thick, suggesting an ear of corn. The thick, hard rind, made up of hexagonal plates or "scales", covers individual segments of ivory-colored, juicy, fragrant pulp much like diced pineapple. Between the segments there are thin, black particles (floral remnants). Generally there are no seeds, but sometimes, pale-green, hard seeds the size of large peas, may occur in a dozen or so of the segments. Monstera deliciosa, It also known as Ceriman, Swiss Cheese Plant, Cheese Plant, Fruit Salad Plant, Monster fruit, Monsterio Delicio, Monstereo, Mexican Breadfruit, Monstera, split-leaf philodendron, Locust and Wild Honey, Windowleaf, Delicious Monster, Photo by: Monstera Plant Care – When And How To Repot A Swiss Cheese Plant Image by mykeyruna By Bonnie L.

Grant One of the classic houseplants is the tropical philodendron. Also known as the Swiss cheese plant , this beauty is an easy to grow, large leaved plant with characteristic splits in the leaves. It should be repotted every few years to ensure adequate soil nutrition and space for the rapidly growing plant. Learn how to repot a Swiss cheese plant including suitable soil, space and staking, for a long lived, healthy specimen that graces your home or office. Tropical Monstera plants (Monstera deliciosa) thrive in most home interiors. The plants are thick stemmed vines that support themselves on other vegetation in nature and produce long roots from the stem to supplement that support. Houseplant Monstera may require staking but they still produce the stiff roots from the trunk. This can make repotting cheese plants something of a challenge. When to Repot Monstera Monstera plant care is relatively low maintenance. The plant needs warm interior temperatures of at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit (18 C.) or warmer. Swiss cheese plant also needs moderately moist soil and high humidity.

The aerial roots need something to hang on to, so a wooden or moss covered stake set into the middle of the pot will provide the extra support. Repotting cheese plants is done every year when the plant is young to encourage growth and freshen the soil. Go up in container size until you reach the largest pot you wish to use. Thereafter, the plant needs a fresh top dress of rich soil annually but will be content for several years at a time even if it is root bound . Early spring before new leaves occur is when to repot Monstera for the best results. How to Repot a Swiss Cheese Plant Swiss cheese plant is a tropical jungle plant and as such requires rich, nutrient dense soil that holds moisture, yet doesn’t remain soggy. A standard good quality potting soil is fine, with the addition of some peat moss . Choose a pot that has plenty of drainage holes and a depth deep enough to accommodate a thick stake. Fill the bottom third of the pot with the soil mixture and set the stake into the center lightly. Repotting cheese plants that are very mature and tall, will require a second pair of hands to help support the upper regions during the potting process.

Set the base of the plant into the container so the original soil line on the plant is a touch below where the new line will be. Fill in around the base roots and any aerial roots that reach into the soil. Firm up the potting mix around the stake and use plant ties to attach the stem to the stake. Post Potting Monstera Plant Care Water the pot deeply right after potting. Wait a week or two and then resume a monthly feeding with liquid fertilizer during watering. Swiss cheese plant may simply get too big for its britches. The plant is known in its habitat to reach 10 feet tall or more. In the home environment, this is generally too tall, but the plant responds well to trimming and you can even keep any cuttings and start them for a new plant . Keep the leaves wiped clean and watch for spider mite infestations . This glossy foliage plant has a long life span and will reward you with its enchanting lacy leaves for years and years with good care. Monstera deliciosa | Houseplant Wiki | Fandom powered by Wikia Edit Monstera deliciosa is a climbing plant, easily recognizable to its large cut leaves that make it a popular plant.

Younger specimens will have full leaves; the cuts begin to appear as the plant gets older, when the conditions are right. The plant produces long, brown aerial roots it uses in the wild to get a hold on the trees on which it grows in jungles, thus supporting its weak stem that is unable to support its own weight once the plant has more than two or three leaves. Care Edit In the nature, M. deliciosa grows by climbing on trees; providing it something to climb on is necessary inside so that the plant can support itself. In a wet enough atmosphere, the plant will readily attach itself to anything it finds; in a normal apartment atmosphere however, it will not, and will have to be manually fixed. Aerial roots that are not actively used by the plant to support itself may be cut. Fertilization Good light or shade, keep out of direct sunlight. Multiplication Edit The plant can easily be multiplied by cuttings or by layering. It is also possible to sow seeds . The sprouting plantlings will display a phenomenon called negative phototropism; this means that unlike most other plants, they will crawl away from sunlight, toward the darkest place they can find.

In the nature, doing so allows them to find the trees they climb on. Once the plantling finds a tree, it will go towards light as expected to grow into the large vine it is known to be. Pests and diseases Edit Unripe fruits M. deliciosa usually doesn't flower when grown inside. Its flowers are white and similar to those of Spathiphyllum , to which the plant is related. The pollinated flowers give birth to long (approx. 25 cm) green fruit, the ceriman. The fruit is dangerous to eat when unripe, as it is full of oxalic acid, that causes immediate and painful blistering and irritation, swelling, itching, and loss of voice upon ingestion. It takes a full year for the fruit to ripen, at which point it no longer contains oxalic acid and is edible. The fruit has a flesh similar to that of a pineapple , and although delicious, it is not commercialized, because it is difficult to eat; everywhere in the fruit lie the remains of the stamens of the flower, which are long and flat black fibres that need to be removed. The fruit can be used in juices and jelly and is said to taste somewhat like pineapple, banana and pear .

Split-Leaf Philodendron Split-Leaf Philodendron Turn Your Home into a Tropical Oasis with Split-Leaf Philodendron I have many favorite houseplants, but split-leaf philodendron (Monstera deliciosa) is at the top of the list. This plant always reminds me of those snowflakes we all made in elementary school by folding the paper and cutting. Also aptly called the Swiss cheese plant, the leaves of this indoor garden gem become dissected with deep splits and perforated with oval holes. Easy to grow climbing plant M. deliciosa’s striking heart-shaped foliage, along with its easy-to-grow, vigorous nature, make it an eye-catching focal point in the indoor garden. It is a fast-growing climbing plant that will reach—in ideal conditions—10 to 15 feet high and 8 feet across. In its native habitat, the jungles of Central America, split-leaf philodendron grows up into the rainforest canopy, climbing as high as 70 feet. It attaches itself to the trunks and branches of other trees with long tentacle-like aerial roots. Rare edible Monstera deliciosa fruit Although it rarely fruits indoors, M.

deliciosa lives up to its name by producing a cone-like fruit, which is actually an unripened flower spike. The fruit matures in a little over a year, and the taste is described as a combination of banana, pineapple and mango. It should only be eaten when ripe; unripe fruit will cause irritation to the mouth and throat. To have luck growing the split-leaf philodendron, keep the following tips in mind: Growing location for split-leaf philodendron Place in a medium to bright location, but out of direct sun. Bright, filtered light is best. Plants in lower light tend to produce smaller leaves without splits or holes. Watering When it’s content, M. deliciosa is a big drinker. Water with lukewarm water as soon as the soil approaches dryness. De-mineralized or rainwater is best. Training split-leaf philodendron The split-leaf philodendron has cordlike aerial roots that emerge from the base of the plant. In its native habitat, it uses these roots to climb trees and absorb nutrients. These aerial roots can be trained to climb a support, such as a spaghnum moss pole , or they can be directed into the soil.

When there is an excess amount, you may cut some of them away. You can find moss poles at the nursery or make your own by wrapping sphagnum moss around a wooden dowel and securing the moss in place with nylon thread or fishing line. Stick the pole in the center of the pot, being careful not to disturb roots. Water the plant from the top of the pole. This will keep the pole moist, and the aerial roots will absorb the moisture. If this is not possible, spray the pole with water, and water the plant base. Fertilizing Feed the split-leaf philodendron once a month with a dilute solution of a liquid organic fertilizer. Water or spray the moss pole with the fertilizer solution and water the plant base. Repotting Monstera deliciosa Repot younger M. deliciosa plants yearly and top-dress more mature specimens once they’ve reached the desired size. Use an organic soil-based potting medium that retains moisture. Provide humidity Although it is a jungle plant, split-leaf philodendron does tolerate dry air better than many plants. If your home’s humidity level is especially low, however, place the plant over a humidity tray. They also enjoy misting.

Pests on split-leaf philodendron They aren’t common on split-leaf philodendrons, but watch for pests such as mealy bugs, scale and spider mites. Washing plant leaves regularly with a soft, damp cloth helps prevent these unwanted diners and keeps plants healthy overall. Monstera siltepecana - Meet the Plants - National Tropical Botanical Garden Plant Database Family: Araceae ï¿½ Arum family Genus: Monstera Adans. - Monstera (Stevens, P. F. (2001+). Angiosperm Phylogeny Website. Version 6, May 2005 [updated 03/04/2006]. Description: Monstera siltepecana, commonly known as Swiss-cheese plant, grows either on the ground or as a climbing vine that can reach the forest canopy by the attachment of its aerial roots to tree trunks. This plant has large leaves that are 30-45 cm long that contain few divisions or lobes along the leaf margin.

The young leaves of this plant, called ï¿½shingleï¿½ leaves grow flat against the solid surface of either a tree trunk or rock face to climb up into the canopy to reach higher light environment. The plant produces flowers only in bright sunshine and the flowers are clustered together onto a densely packed spike (spadix). The flowers that produce the pollen (staminate flowers) are found at the tip of spike and the flowers that produce the ovules (pistillate flowers) are at the base of the spike. The inflorescence is surrounded by a large white to pink bract (spathe) which serves to attracts pollinators and fruit dispersers to the mature flowers and fruit. This species of Monstera is easily confused with a closely related species, Monstera deliciosa, which is also in widespread cultivation in Hawaiï¿½i. The leaves of M. siltepecana contain less holes than leaves of M. delisiosa and the center of the leaf is more solid compared to the lobed leaves of the M. deliciosa. (Staples, G. W. and D. R. Herbst. 2005.

A Tropical Garden Flora: Plants cultivated in the Hawaiian Islands and other tropical places. Bishop Museum Press, Honolulu, Hawai`i.) Geographic Distribution: The genus Monstera contains 60 species with a native range from Mexico to Brazil and Bolivia. Monstera siltepecana is native to Mexico and Costa Rica though is found throughout Hawaiï¿½i in cultivation. In its native habitat Monstera siltepecana is typically found in the understory or climbing to the canopy of tropical forest trees. (Staples, G. W. and D. R. Herbst. 2005. A Tropical Garden Flora: Plants cultivated in the Hawaiian Islands and other tropical places. Bishop Museum Press, Honolulu, Hawai`i.) Food Uses: The ripened fruit of the closely related species Monstera deliciosa is edible. The fruits take almost a year to ripen but it is worth the wait as, when they have fully ripened, the fruit has a very subtle, sweet, refreshing flavor. Care must be taken to ensure the fruit are fully ripe as the unripe fruit contain calcium oxalate crystals that can cause mouth irritation.

Dangerous/Poisonous: The unripe fruit contain calcium oxalate crystals that can cause mouth irritation. The crystals deter animals from eating the unripe fruit before the seeds are ready for dispersal. The seeds must be fully developed to successfully germinate and develop into a seedling. Native Legends and Names: The genus name Monstera, describes the appearance of the perforated leaves which can look monstrous with their large size and lobed, divided blades. Indigenous Practices: The related species Monstera deliciosa is utilized in Mexico for the production of baskets, containers, and ornaments. The stem is harvested from wild plants and vines wiith long stems that are not too thick are preferred as they are easiest to work with. The stem is boiled in water for two hours, the outer layers of the stem are removed, and the remaining material is soaked before weaving to maximize the flexibility of the stems. The year round availability of this vine makes this highly valued for the weaving. Martinez-Romero, M.M., Castro-Ramirez, A.E., Macario, P. and J. C. Fernandez. 2004.

Use and availability of craft vines in the influence zone of the biosphere reserve Sian Kaï¿½an, Quintana Roo, Mexico. Economic Botany 58(1): 83-97.

Question: How is the plant monstera deliciosa better known ?
Answer: SWISS CHEESE PLANT