Ants - Facts About Ants - Types of Ants - PestWorldforKids.org Red Imported Fire Ants There are more than 12,000 species of ants all over the world. An ant can lift 20 times its own body weight. If a second grader was as strong as an ant, she would be able to pick up a car! Some queen ants can live for many years and have millions of babies! Ants don’t have ears. Ants "hear" by feeling vibrations in the ground through their feet. When ants fight, it is usually to the death! When foraging, ants leave a pheromone trail so that they know where they’ve been. Queen ants have wings, which they shed when they start a new nest. Ants don’t have lungs. Oxygen enters through tiny holes all over the body and carbon dioxide leaves through the same holes. When the queen of the colony dies, the colony can only survive a few months. Queens are rarely replaced and the workers are not able to reproduce. Although ants are frustrating when they get into your home or when you’re having a picnic, ants do help the environment. They are social insects, which means they live in large colonies or groups.

Depending on the species, ant colonies can consist of millions of ants. There are three kinds of ants in a colony: The queen, the female workers, and males. The queen and the males have wings, while the workers don’t have wings. The queen is the only ant that can lay eggs. The male ant’s job is to mate with future queen ants and they do not live very long afterwards. Once the queen grows to adulthood, she spends the rest of her life laying eggs! Depending on the species, a colony may have one queen or many queens. Ant colonies also have soldier ants that protect the queen, defend the colony, gather or kill food, and attack enemy colonies in search for food and nesting space. If they defeat another ant colony, they take away eggs of the defeated ant colony. When the eggs hatch, the new ants become the "slave" ants for the colony. Some jobs of the colony include taking care of the eggs and babies, gathering food for the colony and building the anthills or mounds. Find information on ant control at the official NPMA website. Species: Linepithema humile Diet: Argentine ants prefer sweet substances but will eat almost anything including meats, eggs, oils and fats.

Also, when foraging for food, Argentine ants leave pheromone trails everywhere they go, instead of just from nest to food source. This habit ensures they do not waste time visiting the same area twice. While in other ant species worker ants are primarily responsible for gather food, Argentine queens also assist with foraging for food. Habitat: Argentine ant colonies are located in wet environments near a food source. These colonies can grow to monumental size, sometimes covering entire habitats, such as an entire garden or your whole back yard. Impact: Argentine ants do not pose a health threat, but they can contaminate food by leaving their bodily waste behind. Prevention: Eliminate standing water. Pests, such as ants, mosquitoes and termites, are attracted to moisture. Keep tree branches and other plants cut back from the house. Sometimes pests use these branches to get into your home. Make sure that there are no cracks or little openings around the bottom of your house. Sometimes pests use these to get into your home. Make sure that firewood and building materials are not stored next to your home. Pests like to build nests in stacks of wood.

Species: Camponotus Diet: Carpenter ants do not eat the wood they remove during their nest-building activities, but deposit it outside entrances to the colony in small piles. The diet of carpenter ants includes living and dead insects, meat, fats and sugary foods of all kinds, including honeydew and nectar from plants. Habitat: Carpenter ants build nests anywhere they can find water and moldy or damp wood, such as tree stumps, firewood or in the plants around your house. Carpenter ants also build nests inside, usually entering buildings through wet, damaged wood, although it isn’t uncommon for them to adapt to drier environments. Impact: Carpenter ants don’t carry disease, but when building a nest inside a home, Carpenter ants dig smooth tunnels inside the wood. These tunnels weaken the wood and potentially damage the wood that keeps the house standing. This kind of damage can be very expensive to fix. Prevention: Eliminate standing water. Pests, such as ants, mosquitoes and termites, are attracted to moisture. Keep tree branches and other plants cut back from the house. Sometimes pests use these branches to get into your home. Make sure that there are no cracks or little openings around the bottom of your house.

Sometimes pests use these to get into your home. Make sure that firewood and building materials are not stored next to your home. Pests like to build nests in stacks of wood. Odorous house ants like to eat dead insects and sugary sweets, especially melon. Habitat: Typically living for several years, these ants commonly make their homes in exposed soil, under stones, logs, mulch, debris and other items. They will also nest in wall and floor cracks. Impact: Odorous house ants do not pose a health threat, but they can contaminate food by leaving waste behind. Prevention: Eliminate standing water. Pests, such as ants, mosquitoes and termites, are attracted to moisture. Keep tree branches and other plants cut back from the house. Sometimes pests use these branches to get into your home. Make sure that there are no cracks or little openings around the bottom of your house. Sometimes pests use these to get into your home. Make sure that firewood and building materials are not stored next to your home. Pests like to build nests in stacks of wood.

Species: Tetramorium caespitum Diet: These ants will eat almost anything, including insects, grease, seeds, honeydew, honey, bread, meats, nuts and cheese. Habitat: This ant gets its name because it most commonly nests in soil next to and beneath slabs, sidewalks, patios, and driveways. Indoors, pavement ants nest under a building’s foundation and within hollow foundation walls. Impact: Pavement ants do not pose a health threat, but they can contaminate food by leaving waste behind. Prevention: Eliminate standing water. Pests, such as ants, mosquitoes and termites, are attracted to moisture. Keep tree branches and other plants cut back from the house. Sometimes pests use these branches to get into your home. Make sure that there are no cracks or little openings around the bottom of your house. Sometimes pests use these to get into your home. Make sure that firewood and building materials are not stored next to your home. Pests like to build nests in stacks of wood. What to do about household ants : Insects : University of Minnesota Extension University of Minnesota Extension What to do about household ants Jeffrey Hahn and Phillip Pellitteri On this page Figure 1.

Typical ant castes, from left to right: queen, winged male, major worker, minor worker Figure 2. Typical ant body parts Figure 3. Winged ant Figure 4. Winged termite Ants are one of the most common pests in and around homes in the north central states. Ants are social insects and are divided up into three castes: workers, males, and queens (figure 1). Workers are sterile, wingless females which range in size from 1/20 inch long to about 1/2 inch long. The workers of some ant species vary in size and are divided into major (large) and minor (small) workers. Ants vary in color from yellow to red to brown and black and various combinations of these. Like all insects, ants have three distinctive body parts: head, thorax, and abdomen. All ants have a pair of elbowed (bent) antennae on the head and a constricted area between the thorax and abdomen called the petiole. The petiole has either one or two nodes (bumps) (figure 2). The reproductive members of the colony are the males and queens.

Males are generally the same size or larger than the workers, are winged, have a small head with proportionally large eyes. They are produced in older, large colonies and their sole purpose is to mate with the new queens; they die shortly afterwards. Queens are the largest members of the colony, often two to three times larger than workers. Queens possess wings but break them off after mating. They have very large abdomens and can live for a number of years. Males and queens will swarm (i.e. fly) from their nest to mate. A given species will mate during a specific time of the year. After mating, the female seeks a proper nesting site and begins a new colony. The presence of swarming winged ants inside buildings is an indication of an ant nest indoors. Ants are sometimes mistaken for winged termites that are commonly called swarmers. Ants differ from termites by having a narrow, constricted waist, elbowed (bent) antennae, and hind wings shorter than front wings (figure 3).

Termites have a more rectangular shaped body with no constrictions, straight, beaded antennae and four wings of equal size and shape that are much longer than the body (figure 4). Termite wings fall off very easily and are usually found on the surface from which the termites have emerged. Ants are commonly seen in the open, as are winged termites when they swarm. But termite workers, which are creamy white and wingless, avoid light and are rarely seen unless disturbed. Ants have a wide variety of nesting habits and food preferences. Some ants build nests in soil, producing characteristic mounds while others nest in homes behind moldings, baseboards, countertops, and similar places. Still other ants nest in decaying or moisture damaged wood. Ants feed on different types of food, including starches, meats, fats, and sweets. Many ants also feed on honeydew, a sweet liquid produced by aphids and scale insects. Knowledge of ant food and nesting preferences is very important in controlling ant colonies. Damage from ants varies. Most are primarily a nuisance and cause little damage. Some, such as Pharaoh ants, may infest food. Others, like carpenter ants, can weaken wood in structures.

Generally, there are no disease problems associated with ants. In hospitals, Pharaoh ants can transmit disease organisms, such as Staphylococcus. Management Knowing what species of ant is present helps to determine the nesting site, food preference, and the best method of management. In most cases, the most effective, permanent solution is to find and treat the nest; queens must be killed to properly eliminate a colony. Nonchemical methods Trying to discourage ants from invading the home can be frustrating. Proper food storage and waste management will reduce the food that often attracts workers indoors. Clean all kitchen surfaces, vacuum daily, and rinse recyclable containers before storage. Ant trails can be temporarily disrupted with a mild solution of vinegar and water. Sticky barriers using commercially available materials, such as Tanglefoot or Stickem, or water moats containing soapy water, can be used to prevent ants from reaching plants or other items. Caulk cracks that ants are using to enter the home. Outdoors Many ants enter homes from outside nests as they forage for food. To find their nest, follow the ants. You can encourage foraging by setting out attractive food.

Ants usually take regular routes to and from their nest and the food source by establishing a chemical (pheromone) trail. The nest may be found by watching where the ants go; for some ants, such as carpenter ants, this works best at night. If the nest is discovered, it can be treated or removed (in the case of rotted wood). Common insecticides for treating ant nests in the lawn are listed below. Be sure to select a product that is labeled for treating lawns: permethrin as a liquid or granules carbaryl (e.g. Sevin) as a liquid or granules bifenthrin as granules cyfluthrin as granules acephate as a liquid (Note: Liquids work best if they are drenched in. You may need 1/2 gallon or more of mixed material to treat large nests.) Retreatment of nest sites may be necessary if above ground activity resumes after the initial application. In cases where the nest is not found, ants can be kept out of the house by applying an insecticide barrier around the exterior of the building. Careful observation may reveal the ants are entering only through one area of the house; this would allow a spot treatment of that area.

If it is not clear where the ants are entering, then treat a 2 4 foot wide area around the entire building. This control method is temporary and retreatments may be necessary. Common insecticides for treating the building exteriors are listed below. Be sure to select a product that is labeled for treating the perimeter of buildings’ exteriors: permethrin as a liquid or granules bifenthrin as a liquid carbaryl as a liquid or granules cyfluthrin as granules deltamethrin as a dust CAUTION: Read all label directions carefully before buying insecticides and again before applying them. Information on the label should be used as the final authority. Outdoor nests can be very difficult to eliminate without chemicals. Using water to flood nests is usually not effective. Use of gasoline also is ineffective and dangerous and causes environmental pollution. Repeated drenchings of a nest with an insecticidal soap solution is sometimes effective in forcing an ant colony to relocate. There is no scientific evidence that spearmint gum, red pepper, orange peels, or various herbs repel ants effectively. Remember you must kill or relocate the queen to manage an ant colony. Indoors When possible, find the nest and treat it with an insecticide.

When the nest is concealed, e.g. behind a wall, it may be necessary to drill small holes, about 1/8 inch diameter, and apply an insecticidal dust (be sure it is labeled for indoor use). These products may come in ready to use applicators. If not, use a plastic squeeze bottle or some type of flexible plastic container with a tube tip to apply the insecticide. Fill the container about 1/3 or 1/2 full and squeeze a small amount of dust into the desired location (note: applying too much material will cause ants to avoid contact with the dust). Return the unused insecticide back to its original container and thoroughly clean the applicator. Common dusts for treating voids/cracks/crevices are listed below. Be sure to select a product that is labeled for indoor household use. deltamethrin permethrin Another tactic is the use of baits. Workers feed on the bait and take it back to the nest where they share it with the rest of the colony. An advantage of baits is that they are is delivered into inaccessible areas that insecticide sprays cannot reach. However, baits act slowly and may take several weeks to several months to eradicate a colony.

Ant baits sold in stores for public use are generally labeled for many common household ants, although ants will not be equally attracted to all baits. It is important to identify what ant species is present so the appropriate bait can be used. Common insecticides in ant baits are listed below. Be sure to select a product that is labeled for ants. abamectin deltamethrin as a liquid tralomethrin as an aerosol or a liquid CAUTION: Read all label directions carefully before buying insecticides and again before applying them. Information on the label should be used as the final authority. Pest management professionals have the training and experience to deal with household ant problems. Contact a reputable pest management company if you want to have your ant problem handled by a professional. The following descriptions, biologies, and management tactics of ants you may encounter can help you identify and understand their proper treatment. Ant identification can be challenging; if you encounter an ant that you do not recognize, submit it to someone who can properly identify it. Common household ants Carpenter ant, Camponotus pennsylvanicus Carpenter ant, Camponotus nearcticus Description: Some species of carpenter ants are the largest ants in the north central states.

They are black, or red and black; workers range in size from 3/16 to 1/2 inch. Colonies consist of major and minor workers. Carpenter ants have the following characteristics: 1) petiole with one node and 2) a thorax with an evenly rounded upper surface (workers only) [compare with field ants]. Foods: Other insects, both living and dead. They also feed on meats or sweets, including honeydew, syrup, honey, sugar, and jelly. Carpenter ants DO NOT eat wood; they chew wood into sawdust in the process of creating galleries and tunnels. Nesting sites: All types of moist or rotting wood, including trees or tree stumps, indoors behind bathroom tiles; around tubs, sinks, showers, and dishwashers; under roofing, in attic beams, and under subfloor insulation; in hollow spaces such as doors, curtain rods, and wall voids; and in soft polystyrene and other forms of insulation. Carpenter ant tunnels are clean and smooth, making the wood appear that it has been sandpapered. In contrast, termite tunnels are not clean looking, but are packed with dirt like material.

Mating swarms: April through June. Occasionally swarms may emerge indoors earlier during late winter on warm, sunny days. Management: The best treatment is to apply an insecticide directly into the nest. It is also important to replace damaged or decayed wood, and if possible to eliminate any moisture problems. Baits may also be effective if applied where ant activity is seen. For additional information on carpenter ants, see also Carpenter Ants . Cornfield ants, Lasius alienus Cornfield ant Description: Cornfield ants are very abundant outdoors. They are light to dark brown; workers are about 1/10 inch long. Cornfield ants have the following characteristics: 1) petiole with one node, 2) thorax is uneven in profile (workers only), 3) relatively large eyes compared to head, and 4) first antennal segment (also called scape) is not considerably longer than head [compare with false honey ants]. Foods: Sweets, including honeydew (they are sometimes found feeding on honeydew from insects infesting houseplants) and live and dead insects. Nesting sites: In soil, forming small craters, especially in lawns.

They also nest in soil under stones, bricks, sidewalks and other concealed sites, as well as rotting logs and stumps. They rarely nest in homes. Mating swarms: July through September, especially on sunny afternoons. Management: Check for and treat nests in the lawn and other nearby areas. If nests are not obvious, treat the building perimeter with a residual spray. Commercial baits available to the public may be effective. Larger yellow ants, Acanthomyops interjectus Larger yellow ant Description: These ants give off a pleasant citronella or lemon smell when crushed. Yellow ants are yellowish to reddish brown; workers are about 3/16 inch long. Workers do not come indoors for food and are rarely seen. They are most commonly seen when the reproductives swarm in homes. Queens are about 5/16 inch long and often reddish and darker. Yellow ants have the following characteristics: 1) petiole with one node, 2) thorax is uneven in profile (workers only), and 3) compound eye is small in proportion to head. Foods: Honeydew, rarely other sweets.

Nesting sites: In soil under stones, logs, bricks, patio blocks, concrete and other concealed areas. They also can nest in rotting wood. Yellow ants can nest in and around foundation walls and in soil under buildings on slab construction. Workers may be seen throwing out dirt or cement particles, but they do not damage masonry or wood. Mating swarms: April through September. Swarms are also common indoors during winter if ants are nesting under heated concrete slabs. Management: Eliminate winged yellow ants by physical means, e.g. with a vacuum, or by hand. Large numbers can be treated with an application of an insecticide that is labeled for flying insects, such as pyrethrins; these products are found in aerosol ready to use containers. Detection of yellow ants nesting under concrete slabs is difficult and control is rarely practical or justified. Pharaoh ants, Monomorium pharaonis Pharaoh ant Pharaoh ants are an imported species, probably from the tropical regions of Africa. They have readily spread through the world along commerce routes. Although they can nest in any heated building in the north central states, Pharaoh ants are most commonly found in hospitals, nursing homes, schools, and apartments.

Seeing persistent numbers of very small ants during winter suggests Pharaoh ants. Description: Pharaoh ants are light yellow to red with their thorax darker colored; workers are about 1/16 inch long. Pharaoh ants have the following characteristics: 1) petiole with two nodes, 2) thorax lacking spines, 3) 12 segmented antennae, 4) antennal club composed of 3 segments, and 5) normal sized compound eyes in proportion to the head [compare with thief ants]. It is best to have these ants identified by an expert. Foods: They feed on a wide variety of foods, especially those containing grease or fats. They also feed on many types of sweets, dead insects, toothpaste, soap and other foods that other ants rarely attack. They often seek out water in kitchens and bathrooms. Nesting sites: Pharaoh ants nest strictly indoors in the north central states; because of their tropical origins, they do not survive outdoors. They take advantage of their small size and nest in a wide variety of small spaces, cracks and crevices, including behind countertops, baseboards, in wall voids, and many other small voids.

They often nest near dark, warm sites and near sources of moisture. Pharaoh ant nests are very difficult to find. Mating swarms: Pharaoh ants, unlike most ants, do not have a mating swarm but produce new nests through a process called budding. When the colony becomes too large or is under stress, a group of workers take brood (i.e. larvae and pupae) and move to a new site. One or more queens often go with them to the new nest. Management: Elimination of Pharaoh ants is difficult and the service of an experienced pest management service is recommended. Insecticides can cause Pharaoh ants to bud, creating new colonies. The use of baits is strongly recommended. Baits available to the public usually are not effective against Pharaoh ants. Professional pest management services have the experience and access to effective baits needed to successfully eliminate Pharaoh ants. Thief ants, Solenopsis molesta Thief ant Also referred to as grease ants, thief ants are the smallest household ants in the north central states. Thief ants are so named because of their habit of nesting near the nests of larger ants and stealing their larvae. They often have well defined trails. Description: Thief ants are easily confused with Pharaoh ants.

Identification is very important before pest management steps are taken and it is best to have these ants identified by an expert. Thief ants are yellow to light brown; workers measure about 1/20 inch long. They have a tendency to curl up when they die. Thief ants have the following characteristics: 1) petiole with two nodes, 2) thorax lacking spines, 3) 10 segmented antennae, 4) antennal club composed of 2 segments, and 5) small compound eyes in proportion to their head [compare with Pharaoh ants]. Foods: Prefer protein and greasy foods, such as meats, cheese and peanut butter, and nuts, but will also eat sweets. They are small enough to enter almost any type of food container. Nesting sites: Thief ants commonly nest in soil and rotting wood. They can nest indoors in small spaces, such as under countertops, in wall voids, cabinet voids, behind baseboards. Nests are often difficult to find. Mating swarms: July through September. Management: Thief ants are especially common during mid to late summer when they enter homes from outside nests. Locating and treating nests is not practical.

Treat the building perimeter when thief ants are foraging into buildings from outside nests. When nests are located indoors, baiting is the most effective management method. Use commercially available baits effective against grease-feeding ants. Pavement ants, Tetramorium caespitum Pavement ant Description: Pavement ants are reddish brown to black; workers are about 1/8 inch long. Pavement ants have the following characteristics: 1) petiole with two nodes, 2) head with furrows (lines) running vertically (top to bottom), and 3) a pair of spines on the posterior portion of the thorax [compare with acrobat ants]. Foods: Variety of foods including meats, pet food, sweets, bread, nuts, and insects. Nesting sites: In soil under sidewalks, driveways, stones, logs and other concealed sites. Also commonly found under homes with concrete slab construction; ants enter homes through cracks in the concrete. Mating swarms: May through July. When the nest is under a heated slab foundation, swarms can also occur indoors during winter. Management: Look for and treat outdoor nests. When the nest is not found, treat the building perimeter with a residual spray.

When pavement ants are nesting under heated concrete slabs, baiting is the most effective control tactic. Use commercially available baits effective against grease-feeding ants. Less common household ants Field ants, Formica spp. Field ant Description: Field ants can easily be confused with carpenter ants but they are not as likely to forage indoors. They are black, brown, red, or combinations of these colors. Workers range in size from about 1/8 to 1/4 inch long. Colonies consist of major and minor workers. Field ants have the following characteristics: 1) petiole with one node, 2) thorax is uneven in profile (workers only), and 3) distinct simple eyes (ocelli) on top of its head [compare with carpenter ants]. Foods: Household sweets and honeydew. They also eat live and dead insects. Nesting sites: Build mounds in soil in exposed areas. Some species make extremely large mounds. They do not nest inside buildings. Mating swarms: July through September. Management: Look for and treat outdoor nests. Multiple treatments may be necessary. When the nest is not found, treat the building perimeter with a residual insecticide.

False honey ants, Prenolepis imparis False honey ant Description: False honey ants are light to dark brown; workers are about 1/8 inch long. False honey ants have the following characteristics: 1) petiole with one node, 2) thorax is uneven in profile, looks ‘pinched’ (workers only), and 3) first antennal segment (also called scape) is considerably longer than head [compare with cornfield ants]. Foods: Prefer sweets, especially honeydew. Nesting sites: In soil in open, well shaded sites. Their nests are rarely concealed under logs, stones, etc. They do not nest indoors. Mating swarms: April through May. Sometimes they may also be found indoors during winter. Management: Check for ant mounds in open, shaded areas and treat. If nests aren’t found, treat the building perimeter with a residual spray. Use commercially available baits effective against sweet-feeding ants. Odorous house ants, Tapinoma sessile Odorous house ant Description: Odorous house ants give off an unpleasant smell when crushed; some people compare it to rotten coconuts.

Odorous house ants are brown to dark brown; workers are about 1/10 inch long. Odorous house ants have the following characteristics: 1) petiole with one node; node is hidden by abdomen, and 2) thorax is uneven in profile (workers only). Foods: Sweets, especially honeydew, and insects. When honeydew is in short supply, odorous house ants can forage indoors for sweets and other foods, including meats. Nesting sites: In soil under stones, boards, patio blocks, mulching plastic, and nearly any other object laying on the ground. They can nest in homes in walls voids and under floors. Odorous house ants do not cause structural damage to buildings. Mating swarms: June through July. Management: Check for outdoor nests, especially under stones, firewood, bricks, and other objects; treat any that are found. If nests are not located, treat the building perimeter with a residual spray. Use commercially available baits effective against sweet-feeding ants. Acrobat ants, Crematogaster spp. Acrobat ant Acrobat ants get their name from their habit of holding their abdomen over their thorax, especially when they have been disturbed.

Description: Acrobat ants range in color from yellow brown to black; workers are about 1/8 inch long. Acrobat ants have the following characteristics: 1) petiole with two nodes; the petiole is attached to the top of the abdomen, 2) head lacks distinctive furrows (lines), 3) a pair of spines on the posterior portion of the thorax, and 4) heart shaped abdomen [compare to pavement ants]. Foods: A wide variety of food, including sweets, meats, and insects. Nesting sites: Dead or rotted wood, including logs, stumps, dead tree branches. They occasionally nest in soil under stones. Indoors they nest in wall voids and rotted wood, especially window frames. They do not cause structural damage to buildings. Mating swarms: July through September. Management: Check for nests, especially in rotted wood. Remove and destroy infested wood when possible. Nests can also be treated with an appropriate insecticide (do not treat firewood). If the nest is not obvious, treat the building perimeter spray with a residual insecticide. For acrobat ants found indoors in voids, inject an insecticidal dust.

When possible, replace rotted wood and correct moisture problems. What’s a group of ants called? | Pest Control and Bug Exterminator Blog Pest Control and Bug Exterminator Blog What’s a group of ants called? You are here: Home » What’s a group of ants called? What’s a group of ants called? An Ant Colony. Does that question seem a little funny to you as a pest control operator? Its important as a PCO to realize where many people are coming from. “What is a group of ants called” is searched on Google daily! Whenever addressing a customers concerns make sure that you are speaking to them in a way that they understand. Pest control jargon may be easy for you to understand but you will quickly disconnect with your customer if you don’t see it from their point of view. More in depth answer to “What is a group of ants called”- A group of ants is called a colony. Ant colonies are also referred to as ant nests and ant families. Because ants travel together in a line a group may also be called an ant army. But in general a group of ants is a colony as a group of birds is a flock, and a group of cows is a herd.

So colony is the correct answer. Carpenter Ant Management | Nebraska Extension in Lancaster County | University of Nebraska–Lincoln Nebraska Extension in Lancaster County Figure 1: Camponotus pennsylvanicus Figure 2: Camponotus sayi Carpenter ants are important in the balance of nature because they burrow and nest in dead trees and enhance decay of the wood. They achieve pest status when a colony invades and damages the integrity of the wood within a house. This educational resource explains how the biology and behavior of carpenter ants relate to control strategies when a homeowner is faced with this problem. Description and Habits: The black carpenter ant, Camponotus pennsylvanicus, is the most common carpenter ant species in Nebraska. Foraging workers are black and quite large--1/4-5/8 inches. There is at least one other carpenter ant species found in Nebraska. Its scientific name is Camponotus sayi. It has no recognized common name, but we unofficially refer to it as the "red" carpenter ant because it has a reddish-orange head and thorax and a black abdomen. It is smaller than the black carpenter ant.

Even though these two carpenter ant species have different coloring, they both have one-segmented pedicel (the segment between the thorax and the abdomen) and the profile of the thorax is evenly rounded and not bumpy. All carpenter ant species have these characteristics. Figure 3: Black Carpenter Ant Swarmer - Queen. Swarming reproductive ants have wings. They lose their wings after mating Figure 4: Black Carpenter Ant queen cares for her first brood Carpenter ant workers are polymorphic--which means workers are different sizes. Entomologists refer to larger workers as "major" workers and the smaller workers as "minor" workers. The minor workers are not "baby" ants--they just have different tasks in the colony. Each colony has at least one queen, the egg-laying colony member. There may be more than one queen in a colony. When a colony gets very large (6-10 years old and has more than 2,000 workers), it may produce winged reproductives, called swarmers (Figure 3). Swarming usually occurs during warmer months, but in Nebraska, people report swarms of the red carpenter ant during warm spells in the winter.

Black carpenter ant swarms are more commonly observed from March-June. The males are much smaller than the females and often emerge a few days earlier. After mating, a single queen seeks out a suitable nesting site and lays only a few eggs which hatch into maggot-like larvae (Figure 4). The queen cares for the larvae which become the colony's first workers. These workers forage for food and take care of the colony while the queen continues laying eggs. The diet of carpenter ants is quite varied and includes living and dead insects, honeydew from aphids, sweets, meat and fats. They do not eat wood. Workers leave the colony in late afternoon or early evening, forage during the night and return to the colony in the early morning hours. Carpenter ants carry food back to the nest intact or ingested and later feed it to non-foraging members in the nest. These ants may forage several hundred feet from the nest to search for food. Figure 5: Smooth galleries of a carpenter ant colony Figure 6: Rotted wood under a window Homeowners may be concerned if they see carpenter ants inside. But, seeing carpenter ants inside the home does not necessarily mean the house is actually infested.

It could mean the house is simply within foraging distance of a colony. In the construction of their nest, carpenter ants hollow out dead tree limbs, logs, posts, landscaping timbers and wood used in homes and other structures (Figure 5). They can also live in creosote-treated railroad ties because they don't actually eat the wood, but only chisel it with their mouthparts. Carpenter ant galleries are smooth and very different from termite feeding, which has mud packed into the hollowed out area. Certain parts of a house, around and under windows, roof eaves, decks and porches are more likely to be infested by carpenter ants. Refer to Figure 9 below for most common problem areas of a home. Carpenter ants prefer to nest in moist wood, but wood saturated previously may be soft enough for carpenter ants to hollow it out. They may be a serious problem in poorly maintained log houses. Carpenter ants don't always need a moist area to nest. They may use an old abandoned nest or wood "hollowed out" by termites. Nests also may be located in hollow doors, small void areas produced during construction or even in foam insulation.

Carpenter ants keep occupied galleries clean. They remove wood in the form of a coarse sawdust-like material, which they push from the nest. This often results in a cone-shaped pile accumulating just below the nest entrance hole. This pile may include, in addition to the wood fragments, other debris from the nest, including bits of soil, dead ants, parts of insects and remnants of other food they ate Figure 7: Sawdust discarded from carpenter ant tunneling Figure 8: Looking at carpenter ant sawdust with a magnifying glass shows tiny wood shavings all the same size - usually with insect parts Homeowners may be concerned if they see carpenter ants inside. But, seeing carpenter ants inside the home does not necessarily mean the house is actually infested. It could mean the house is simply within foraging distance of a colony. In the construction of their nest, carpenter ants hollow out dead tree limbs, logs, posts, landscaping timbers and wood used in homes and other structures. They can also live in creosote-treated railroad ties because they don't actually eat the wood, but only chisel it with their mouth parts.

Carpenter ant galleries are smooth and very different from termite feeding, which has mud packed into the hollowed out area. Certain parts of a house, around and under windows, roof eaves, decks and porches are more likely to be infested by carpenter ants. Refer to Figure 9 below for most common problem areas of a home. Carpenter ants prefer to nest in moist wood, but wood saturated previously may be soft enough for carpenter ants to hollow it out. They may be a serious problem in poorly maintained log houses. Carpenter ants don't always need a moist area to nest. They may use an old abandoned nest or wood "hollowed out" by termites. Nests also may be located in hollow doors, small void areas produced during construction or even in foam insulation. Carpenter ants keep occupied galleries clean. They remove wood in the form of a coarse sawdust-like material, which they push from the nest (Figure 8). This often results in a cone-shaped pile accumulating just below the nest entrance hole.

This pile may include, in addition to the wood fragments, other debris from the nest, including bits of soil, dead ants, parts of insects and remnants of other food they ate (Figure 9). Control Baits: Colonies of some ant species can be controlled with baits, but because carpenter ants have such a varied diet, baits are not very successful. Over the Counter Sprays: Spraying foraging workers with most insecticides is of limited value because, even though some workers will die, the colony will largely be unaffected by the treatment. Treating the Colony: Because carpenter ants live in colonies, a treatment which targets the colony will be most effective. Finding the colony is important. Look for the piles of sawdust to locate the entrance. Another method to find the colony is to watch the movement of foraging ants. They are most active at night. Inspect the entire structure and surrounding grounds, because the nest may be outdoors. Once you find the colony, control strategy depends on where it is. If the colony is in a tree, you can use a dust insecticide labeled for use on trees in the landscape. Apply the dust directly into the nest cavity.

If the colony is in a wall void, you may need to place an insecticide inside the wall. Do not use liquid insecticides inside wall voids. Introduce the dust into the nest through the entrance hole using hand duster with a tube with a tip which fits snugly in the entrance. It may be necessary to enlarge the hole to fit the duster. You can make a duster from a flexible plastic bottle equipped with a tube tip. An old mustard or Ketchup bottle might work for this use. Fill the bottle no more than one-third full, insert the tip in the entrance hole and inject the dust by alternately squeezing and releasing the pressure on the bottle. Unfortunately, there aren't very many over-the-counter dust products available for homeowners. It may be money well spent to hire a pest control professional who has a greater arsenal of products at his/her disposal and proper application equipment. Dust formulations registered for use in and around the home include Drione® (pyrethrins), Tempo® (cyfluthrin), Deltadust® (deltamethrin). These are marketed for the professionals and not readily available in retail outlets. Another useful dust formulation is Apicide® (carbaryl).

It is a product made to control bees and wasps in wall voids, but, because it is labeled for wall void treatments, it can be used for these situations. It is important to make sure these wall void treatments won't come into contact with humans or pets. Be sure to store any leftover insecticide in its original container with the label intact and throw away the make-shift duster so it doesn't get used around food. Transfer liquid insecticides. There are newer insecticides which do not kill insects immediately, but become transferred to other members of the colony. Termidor®, an insecticide used for termite barrier treatment, has been shown to have this "transference effect." It is labeled for treating trails and entry points where ants enter the home so it may be useful for some carpenter ant infestations. But, according to labeled directions, Termidor® can only be used twice a year for treatments like this, so it should not be used indiscriminately. It cannot be used inside the home. This is a product labeled for use only by licensed structural pesticide applicators. Problem applications. Remember, the most effective carpenter ant treatments are those that target the colony.

Some companies may propose expensive treatments which use more insecticide than is needed to control the carpenter ant problem. **Instead of spending the time to find the colony, some companies propose to inject dust into every exterior wall void. If the pest control professional or the homeowner can locate the colony, it will be less disruptive, less pesticide used and less expensive. **Monthly sprays shouldn't be needed for managing carpenter ants. The company should follow-up treatment of the colony by monitoring to make sure the treatment worked. **Some companies have proposed to inject insecticides into the soil perimeter, similar to a termite treatment. This would be very expensive and is not recommended for carpenter ant infestations. To prevent further carpenter ant infestations, trim all trees and bushes so branches do not touch the house and correct moisture problems such as leaky roofs and plumbing. Paint and/or seal exposed wood construction before it becomes wet. Replace previously ant-or termite-infested wood, rotted or water-damaged wooden parts of the structure and eliminate wood/soil contacts. Remove dead stumps on the property and store firewood off the ground and away from the structure.

Non-chemical Controls: Carpenter ant management involves eliminating moisture problems associated with interior colonies to correct conditions suitable for colony survival. Colonies can sometimes be eliminated by discarding infested wood or by vacuuming ants. In these situations, no insecticides may be needed. Carpenter ant colonies outdoors should be treated because they may be the source of satellite colonies which invade wall voids during warmer months. Carpenter ants will not kill living trees, but openings in living trees are attractive to carpenter ants. These openings are likely to be entrances for carpenter ant colonies. For information on caring for damaged trees, contact a certified arborist or visit with your local university Extension staff . Stacks of firewood and old dead tree stumps also attract carpenter ants. The longer wood remains undisturbed, the more likely it will become infested. It is best to only store firewood you plan to use during one heating season. Store wood on a concrete pad above the soil and away from the house. Spraying of firewood with insecticides is not recommended.

Figure 9 Sugar Ants - Facts & How to Get Rid of Them Sugar Ants Latin Name: Camponotus consobrinus Sugar ant is a common name that many people use to describe any small ant that is attracted to sweets. However, the sugar ant is actually the species Camponotus consobrinus. Identification Sugar ants range from 2 to 15 mm in size. Winged male sugar ants with royal blood are completely black, while female workers have orange-colored bodies. Habitat & Diet Also known as the banded sugar ant, sugar ants prefer to live and forage for food in suburban areas. In the wild, sugar ants typically dwell in woodlands, forests and heaths. Sugar ant colonies can be found in soil, between rocks, in holes in wood and around the twigs of trees or shrubs. When sugar ants build their nests in soil, they can be recognized by large dirt hills surrounding the colonies’ entrances. They can be found foraging under house lights and in streets during warm summer months and prefer warm and humid climates. Habitat affects the size of sugar ants because different locations provide different sources of food.

Ranging from 2 to 15 mm in size, sugar ants feed on nectar, secretions of various plants, sugary foods, insects, small animals and plant-eating invertebrates such as the caterpillar. Sugar ants prefer honeydew from aphids and protect aphids from other predators to ensure the safety of their food source. Reproduction The eggs that queen sugar ants produce in late spring or early autumn can hatch into new queens or males. Winged male sugar ants with royal blood are completely black, while female workers have orange-colored bodies. During autumn season, thousands of alates mate in the air, while sugar ant workers keep guard on the ground. In the Home When they locate a reliable source of food inside a home, sugar ants can become a nuisance. If you suspect a sugar ant infestation of your home, check your kitchen, pantry and food containers. Sugar ants are attracted to spills, stains and other food traces, as well. To help get rid of them, clean up these conditions. Workers are seen at dusk moving along marked trails in search of food, and they return to their nests at dawn. It can be difficult to locate a sugar ant nest, due to their nocturnal behaviors. Do Sugar Ants Bite?

The sugar ant is a rather mild-mannered ant that does not sting. When disturbed, the sugar ant may defend itself by using its mouthparts to bite; however, bites are not painful and do not produce any symptoms unless the person is highly allergic to the bite. If symptoms do occur, apply antibiotic creams to the bite site; carefully watch the person bitten; and call a medical professional if symptoms worsen. Always seek the advice and assistance of a physician if bitten or stung by ants. More Information The general public often uses the name “sugar ant” to describe many different species of ant. Any small to medium-sized ant which doesn’t sting is referred to by this name. Common examples of ants called “sugar ants” are pharaoh ants , odorous house ants , acrobat ants , etc. Another example of the use of a general name applied to multiple species would be using “water bug” to describe cockroaches. Proper identification of the species is critical to correctly managing any infestation. Unfortunately people often believe that all “sugar ants” are one type of pest and that a single strategy works for against them all. The actual species can vary greatly as to their biology and nesting habits and therefore how they are treated.

When ants invade a home, it is best to contact a pest control professional to properly identify the ant and develop an effective management strategy. Find Your Local Branch

Question: What is the correct name for an ant’s nest?
Answer: Formicary