About: Justacorps About: Justacorps An Entity of Type : WikicatMilitaryUniforms , from Named Graph : , within Data Space : dbpedia.org A justacorps or justaucorps is a long, knee-length coat worn by men in the latter half of the 17th century, and throughout the 18th century. The garment is of French origin, and was introduced in England as a component of a three-piece ensemble, also consisting of breeches and a long vest or waistcoat. This ensemble served as the prototype of the modern-day three-piece suit. The fabric selection and styling of the justacorps varied throughout time periods, as fashions frequently altered. Property Als Justaucorps (engl. coat) wird ein Herren-Kleidungsstück und die allgemeine Hauptoberbekleidung des Mannes des späten 17. und frühen 18. Jahrhunderts bezeichnet. (de) Se llama casaca a una prenda masculina exterior ya en desuso, que se llevaba ceñida.

Era del estilo de un frac en cuanto a sus dimensiones pero con cuello recto y fuerte de modo que no se doblara y cerrado alrededor del corbatín por delante por unos corchetes muy disimulados. Desde el cuello a la cintura, se cerraba con botones, así como por detrás, si bien aquí, por cierto corte que parte desde el talle, caen airosos unos faldones descendiendo hasta las corvas. Las había sencillas, con vivos colores y también de bordados, así como diferentes tamaños. En tiempos lejanos, las casacas también las llevaban las mujeres. Son utilizadas por alumnos de los colegios estatales y privados. (es) Szustokor (nazwa pochodzi od francuskiego słowa justaucorps) — wierzchni, dopasowany kaftan, jaki nosili mężczyźni w XVII i XVIII wieku. Szustokor sięgał do kolan i posiadał długie rękawy z mankietami.

Szyto go z jednolitych, raczej grubych materiałów. Szustokory zdobione były guzikami i haftami. Początkowo szustokor był używany jako wojskowy mundur, zaś od końca XVII do połowy XVIII wieku traktowany był jako bardzo elegancki strój noszony przez cywili, według mody francuskiej. (pl) A justacorps or justaucorps is a long, knee-length coat worn by men in the latter half of the 17th century, and throughout the 18th century. The garment is of French origin, and was introduced in England as a component of a three-piece ensemble, also consisting of breeches and a long vest or waistcoat. This ensemble served as the prototype of the modern-day three-piece suit. The fabric selection and styling of the justacorps varied throughout time periods, as fashions frequently altered. (en) Жюстокор (фр.

justaucorps — «точно по корпусу») — тип мужского кафтана, появившийся в конце XVII века и сделавшийся в XVIII веке обязательным элементом европейского придворного костюма, наряду с камзолом. Жюстокор характеризовался прилегающим по талии фасоном с узкой линией плеч и расширением к низу, без воротника, с короткими рукавами и карманами. Нижняя отрезная часть, состоящая из клиньев, была на жесткой полотняной или волосяной прокладке; в боковых швах и шлице спинки закладывались складки.

Будучи одеждой знати, жюстокор шился из дорогих тканей — шелка, атласа и бархата — и обильно украшался вышивкой, канителью, фестонами; застежки и пуговицы нередко выполнялись из драгоценных металлов, петлицы — из золотого и серебряного шнура, и сами по себе являлись украшением. (ru) Als Justaucorps (engl. coat) wird ein Herren-Kleidungsstück und die allgemeine Hauptoberbekleidung des Mannes des späten 17. und frühen 18. Jahrhunderts bezeichnet. (de) Szustokor (nazwa pochodzi od francuskiego słowa justaucorps) — wierzchni, dopasowany kaftan, jaki nosili mężczyźni w XVII i XVIII wieku. Szustokor sięgał do kolan i posiadał długie rękawy z mankietami.

Szyto go z jednolitych, raczej grubych materiałów. Szustokory zdobione były guzikami i haftami. Początkowo szustokor był używany jako wojskowy mundur, zaś od końca XVII do połowy XVIII wieku traktowany był jako bardzo elegancki strój noszony przez cywili, według mody francuskiej. (pl) A justacorps or justaucorps is a long, knee-length coat worn by men in the latter half of the 17th century, and throughout the 18th century. The garment is of French origin, and was introduced in England as a component of a three-piece ensemble, also consisting of breeches and a long vest or waistcoat. This ensemble served as the prototype of the modern-day three-piece suit. The fabric selection and styling of the justacorps varied throughout time periods, as fashions frequently altered. (en) Se llama casaca a una prenda masculina exterior ya en desuso, que se llevaba ceñida.

Era del estilo de un frac en cuanto a sus dimensiones pero con cuello recto y fuerte de modo que no se doblara y cerrado alrededor del corbatín por delante por unos corchetes muy disimulados.Desde el cuello a la cintura, se cerraba con botones, así como por detrás, si bien aquí, por cierto corte que parte desde el talle, caen airosos unos faldones descendiendo hasta las corvas. Las había sencillas, con vivos colores y también de bordados, así como diferentes tamaños. (es) Жюстокор (фр. justaucorps — «точно по корпусу») — тип мужского кафтана, появившийся в конце XVII века и сделавшийся в XVIII веке обязательным элементом европейского придворного костюма, наряду с камзолом.

Жюстокор характеризовался прилегающим по талии фасоном с узкой линией плеч и расширением к низу, без воротника, с короткими рукавами и карманами. (ru) Justaucorps | FFXIclopedia | Fandom powered by Wikia Guild Merchant Historical Background A justacorps or justaucorps is a garment worn in the latter 17th century and earlier 18th century. Of French origin, the justacorps was a knee-length coat, fitted to the waist and flared below, without a waist seam. It featured deep, turn-back cuffs and was worn over a long vest or waistcoat and breeches. The justacorps was an aristocratic garment worn primarily by men, although some women wore the justacorps with a matching petticoat as a riding habit. Recreating 16th and 17th Century Clothing: The Renaissance Tailor back to the top Damask, damasco (B.) - 1. (noun) A figured silk fabric. 2.

(noun) A patterned textile with one warp and one weft in which the design is produced by contrasting the weaving systems. Damask is still available in the table cloth section of most fabric stores but most of these fabrics are polyester or a polyester blend. There are a number of Damasks also available in bridal sections of fabric stores but most of these are also polyester blends or acetates. Despuntadura(s) - Burguen : The curved cut-offs from rounded pattern pieces. Dimity - Thought to be a coarse lindsey-woolsey type of cloth. Dornex, Dornix - Apparently a fabric with a linen warp and wool weft. From the Flemish town by the same name. Doublet - Also known as a jubon (Sp.), and jupon (Fr.). Item of clothing which was used by either sex. It consisted of a close fitted jacket with a short, upright collar and a 'short skirt' of either pickadills or a peplum type. Detachable sleeves were usual and the doublet could be made of the same material as the pants/hose or of a contrasting material. It was not unusual for a gentleman to 'have more doublets than hose'.

Women's doublets, during the reign of Elizabeth, were very much like those of men. 'Peascod' doublets had an exaggerated stomach and were fashionable during the last twenty years of the 16th Century. Dowlas - A coarse linen, used for cloak bags and cases as well as for neckwear and clothing by the lower classes. Down sleeves - Any long sleeve that reached to the wrist. Down right - fabric term meaning to 'run the length of the body'. Durance - A class of closely woven, worsted wool fabrics of 'lasting quality' and patterned in various ways. It was often used in aprons, 'bodies', and in petticoats. Dutch Cloak- A short, round cloak, either male or female, with sleeves. E Burguen : see haldones. Farthingale - From the Spanish 'verdue' (sapling) and 'garde' (guards or bands). A cone or bell shaped underskirt stiffened with hoops or rope, bents, or whalebone. First made from ossia (willow saplings, stripped of bark) and worn in Spain from 1470 to the 1700's.

Their primary function was to hold out the skirts of gowns. Introduced to England by Catherine of Aragon. The first mention of farthingales in the accounts of the royal wardrobe comes from 1545. Farthingales could be of two types; the Spanish or 'round' (which was a circular skirt stiffened by hoops) and the French (a roll, stiffened with wire and placed about the hips). Accounts of French farthingales appear in Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe in 1561. By 1580, a variation of the French type was used which consisted of a half roll, usually stuffed was worn. It allowed the front of the gown to fall straight. Wheel farthingales were also worn. These were literally a wheel like apparatus, fastened about the waist and extending at a straight line from there, giving a very abrupt edge to the skirt. Felt - Used in period for quilting, embroidery, stiffening, and sometimes interlining. Made of wool. Good modern equivalents would include some of the finer made felts available at most craft stores and fabric stores. Felt hats - Faced or lined with velvet or silk.

Felt was the usual material for the Copatain or Sugar Loaf. Ferreruelo - A type of silk with a very loose weave. Flanders Gown - Probably a loose type of gown with decorative guards. Flannel - Used as lining and for garment construction. Usually made of wool. Modern flannel is almost exclusively made of cotton. As long as it is of a fairly good quality, it should be a good substitute. A thin, fine material made of both linen and wool. It was often used for petticoats and, like buckram, was a material that was worn 'out of sight'. Flat cap - Often made of wool and usually worn by middle classes and apprentices. Flores - Burguen : seems to indicate a pattern on the surface of the textile as opposed to "a labor" which indicates a woven pattern. Foreparte - Term referring either to the front of a piece of clothing or to the detachable, decorated inverted V-shaped panel worn to fill the open front of a gown from the waist to the hem. French Gown - Possibly a gown with a square neckline, fitted bodice and full skirt. The name may have originated as fashion from France in the early 16th century.

Frieze, Frizado - Woolen cloth made with a heavy nap, usually on one side only. It was considered especially suited for gowns, jackets, jerkins, and coats. Often used for military wear although it was worn by both men and women of all classes. Frizado was a woolen cloth of high nap that was of better quality. It was used in garments where warmth was needed. Fringe - 1. To place decoration or braid at the very edge of a garment. 2. Equivalent to modern fringe. Frog, frogs - Closures for the fronts of garments, usually made from cording and couched on to the garment. Fustian - A piled fabric with a cotton weft and linen warp. The highest quality resembled velvet the poorest quality resembled a napped fabric. Very popular for linings and gowns. Modern velveteen would make a good substitute. It was a fashionable substitute for silk velvet. G back to the top Galligaskins - Gaskins hose. See slops. Also known as 'gaskins', 'gally slops' and 'gally breeches'. Wide breeches that reached to the knee only and were not 'bombasted' or stuffed.

Garter - The strip of material used to tie around or to stockings just below the knee to hold them in place. Usually made of expensive material and adorned with goldsmith wok or rich embroidery and embellishment. Cross garters were wrapped below the knee, crossed behind the knee and tied above the knee, usually to the side. Gauze - Exactly as the name implies. Gimp - Silk wrapped around a cotton or linen core and often combined with other treads in flat braids or "fly" fringe. Girdle - A belt, fastened in front, and hung about the waist. Women's girdles were usually of goldsmith work, silk, or ribbon. Her pomander, fan, mirror, or muff would then depend from the girdle. Men's girdles were made of gold, silver, embroidered silks and velvets or embossed leather. Gloves - Symbolic of trust and honor. Often sent as a gage and worn in the helmet or hat as a symbol by which one's enemy could be recognized and challenged on the day of combat. A glove was cast down by the defendant in a quarrel and taken up by the accuser, who thus signified his acceptance of the challenge.

Gloves were also used as memorials, favors and betrothal or wedding gifts. The favorite materials for gloves were soft doe and kid skins (cheverel) and silk materials such as satin and velvet. The gauntlet (piece extending to cover the wrist) was often very richly embroidered. Gore - A triangular shaped piece inserted into a seam or fabric piece to add width. Synonymous with 'gusset'. Gown - General term referring to the outer gown. Grosgrain Cloth - Another name for chamlet. Very similar to modern heavy 'Bengaline'. Made of hair, silk, or worsted wool. It was a taffeta weave with 'grow grains' or cords in the warp. It was made into coats, jackets, breeches, doublets, cassocks, cloaks, kirtles, and gowns, embroidered, guarded with velvet, and trimmed with lace. Guard - A strip of material usually used as a reinforcement on the edges of garments to prevent wear. Eventually became ornamental. Gum Arabic - Thick, viscous liquid obtained from the gum tree and imported from Africa. Used as size or as a way to keep raw edges of material from fraying.

Gusset - Burguen : cassock skirts. Handkerchief - An accessory necessary to every fashionable man and woman of the period. Usually carried in the hand to show them off. Made of costly materials and trimmed with cutwork, embroidery, or other embellishment. Hanger - Attached to the man's girdle which commonly consisted of two straps and a plate to which was buckled the scabbard of the sword. Hangers were often gifts of ladies to their favorites and bridegrooms offered them to their male attendants. Hanging sleeve - Any sleeve which depended from the shoulder and was open at some part of the front seam to allow the arm through. Also known as 'side' sleeves. Hem stitch - Used to hem and worked in such a way as to be almost invisible from the front. See Period Techniques. Herreruelo - Burguen : long cloak with hood, most often worn by soldiers. Herringbone stitch - Holland Cloth - A linen cloth in varying qualities from very fine to coarse. Used for smocks, kerchiefs and other garments. The coarser variety was used for bed linen and linings as well as for clothing.

Hood - Exclusively women's wear in the 16th Century. The main type of hood worn in Elizabeth's reign was known as the French or coquille hood. Usually made of velvet, tissue, or other silk, it was softly pleated with a round front and worn over the back of the head as far as the ears. The wearing of hats replaced the hood at the very end of the Century. Hooks & Eyes - Fastenings made of steel wire and sewn to the inside of bodices and doublets. Used as an 'invisible' fastener. In the late part of the 16th Century, hooks and eyes replaced points as fasteners for hose to garments with the points remaining as a decoration only. Horn - Sometimes used as a stiffener for corsets. Hose - Tubes of fabric, usually of expensive lightweight material, cut on the bias, and sewn to fit the foot and lower leg. 16th Century hose consisted of two parts; upper or 'trunk' hose; and lower, which could refer to 'canons', long hose, or nether stocks. Upperstocks were usually called breeches.

Boot-hose were plain stockings worn over hose inside boots to protect the hose from the boot. See also Stockings. I back to the top Inkle - A linen tape of different qualities and widths. It was used for apron strings, girdles, bindings, and embroidery. Irish Mantle- A rectangular piece of fabric, usually expensive and most often knapped, worn for court or portraits. It was draped and fastened in the 'Irish' fashion; ends pinned together on the left shoulder and the bulk left to drape around the body. Italian Fashion - Apparently a gown with two bodices, the outer one slashed to show the inner bodice. J back to the top Jacket - A doublet of lighter weight, usually worn underneath a doublet but conforming to the same shape as the doublet. Jerkin - Also known as sayo (Sp.). A 'short coat', usually worn over another doublet and intended to protect from dirt and chill. Sometimes sleeveless. The terms 'jerkin' and 'doublet' are almost indistinguishable with one taking the place of the other.

The difference seems to be in that the sleeves of the jerkin were sewn to the body and doublet sleeves were usually detachable. Jubon - Burguen : Term indicating a woven pattern with a distinct direction. Lace with, Laced (with)- decorative braids, cords, etc., sewn on the garment. Lacing hole - The eylet or grommet (usually in a series) used to pass lacing through to secure one portion of the garment to another. Lanilla - Burguen : see flannel. Lawn - Also known as Cobweb Lawn and Tiffany. A fine, delicate linen used for smocks, sleeves, and ruffs. Made into frontlets, sleeves, ruffs and bands, doublets, foreparts, and gowns. Latin Mantle - A half round piece of material, shaped like a cloak, and worn for warmth. Let down with - Indicative of a hem facing. Lettice cap, Miniver cap - Made of grey fur (miniver refers to either the underbellies of squirrels or the entire pelt), tri-cornered and about three to four inches in height.

Considered old fashioned near the end of the 16th Century and do not seem to have been worn by anyone above the rank of gentlewomen. Linen - A fabric woven from flax fibers and available in varying qualities. Most of the linen available in the modern world is of the medium quality variety compared to period linen. Lindsey-Woolsey - A loosely woven, plain cloth of linen yarn and wool. Livery - A type of uniform, usually in one solid color, worn by the servants of a particular master or mistress. Lockeram - A linen cloth of various weights and used for household linens, etc. Loosely woven fabric made of hemp. Used by the lower classes for ruffs, coifs, kerchiefs, household linens, and lining. Loose gown - Overgown hanging loosely from the shoulders, not fitting tightly to the body. Lowpes - A fabric woven from irregularly colored wool. Media loba - Burguen : literally "half wolf". A term, probably colloquial, for a popular type of cape. Medios - Burguen : the scraps, "cabbage". Mockado - A mock velvet in which the pile was of wool and the backing of linen.

Could be plain, striped, or tufted. Often used for gowns, fathingales, kirtles, stomachers, breeches, and jackets, could be guarded with velvet, embroidered with gold, and trimmed with lace. Chiefly used by those who couldn't afford velvet but was found in Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe. Motley - Originally a worsted material of mixed or variegated colors worn by the wealthy and by the clergy in vestments. N Fabric that has been painted, stained, etc. Panes - Long strips of material, usually made into sleeves, and caught together at intervals so that the under garment or lining shows through. Partlet - A small yoke piece to cover a low neckline, often richly decorated. In Tudor period often of the same material as the gown. When made of lawn, worn to fill the neckline as a chemisette or habit-shirt. In the reign of Henry VIII, partlets were worn by both men and women. Detachable sleeves usually matched the partlet. Partlets could be white, black or of various other colors. During the last half of the 16th Century, they were made with standing collars to which ruffs were attached.

Passement, passamaine, passementerie, passamanos (B.) - Type of braid made 'in the hand' (passe - passed or made, maine - hand). French term for a wide range of trims. Known in England in the 18th century as 'parchmentery' or 'narrow wares'. Pelo abaxo - A napped woolen fabric. A fine frieze or napped cloth. Often used for lining. Pequeñas - Burguen : litterally "little ones". Small pieces used to piece up larger pieces. Perpetuana - A woolen material, resembling serge, lighter in weight than broadcloth, and long lasting. Used for drapery and screens as well as for clothing of all classes. Petticoat - Skirt which forms part of an outer garment or underskirt, usually decorated at the hem and intended to be seen. Might be with or without a bodice. Often lined and two or three worn together under the gown. In the 19th century, the term came to refer solely to underclothes. Pickadils, picadillos (B.) - Tabs or small squares of material.

Usually put around the base of a doublet, bodice, or around the armhole to disguise the lacing strips. Used on corsets to help distribute weight off of the shoulders. Used on collars and wired to support ruffs. Pieça(s) - Burguen : generic term for pattern pieces. Pinked - Small cuts on the surface of a fabric, giving a decorative pattern. Pins - Used to pin garments and things on garments in place. Largely replace by hooks and eyes by 1600. Placket - Not to be confused with a 'placard' or stomacher. The treatment of the opening or vent at the top of a skirt to allow the garment to be put on. Pleats - Pluderhose - A type of man's breeches, either slashed or made in panes, to show the inner lining. Plush - An expensive silk fabric with a nap which was longer and softer than velvet. Points - Originally the metal tags on thongs of leather. By the 15th Century, the metal tags called aiguillettes and the thongs 'points'.

Used on a garment by placing a corresponding row of eyelet holes in the garment and the garment to which it was to be attached, threading the points through the holes and tying the ends together. Polish Fashion - Refers to the use of 'frog' closures on the front of bodices, doublets, and skirts. Printed - Usually refers to a fabric (silk, satin, or velvet) which has been touched with hot irons to form a pattern. Prospelo - Burguen : wrong side of fabric. Puffed, puft - Small areas of ruched up fabric. Puntaguda - Burguen : sharply pointed, specific type of hood. Puntas - back to the top Quilted - Fr. Piqué. Refers to a 'sandwich' of material surrounding a stuffing which is then tacked together at various intervals to prevent the stuffing from moving. R back to the top Rail - There are three types; a square, which was worn over the neck and shoulders, a veil worn over the head and wired, and a hood with small cape usually worn with a nightgown. Could be made of linen, lawn, cypress, cambric, network, or other fine material.

Raised - See 'razed'. Rash Cloth - A twilled material, similar to saye, made of either silk or wool. China twill (made of cotton) or a woolen twill would make a good substitute. Ravelled - To ravel or untwist the edge. Raxa - To scratch satin with a sharp knife into patterns. Rebato - The wire frame, sometimes covered with linen, that supported the open ruff. It was pinned to the shirt or gown and then the ruff was pinned to it. Recaudos - Burguen : general term for finishing pieces cut from the medios. Not shown on pattern. Recuchillos - Burguen : pieces to make up cuchillos. Revers, reves (B.) - A distinctly French garment treatment. The term refers to the front of the bodice which was turned back (reversed) to show a fancy lining and was then held in place by means of lacing holes and ties fastened to the corset. The fashion was most popular from the 1580's through the 1590's. Riding cloak - Probably a short cloak, without sleeves, worn when riding.

Term refers to both masculine and feminine attire. Riding coat - Term probably refers to a cassock or loose fitting jacket worn when riding. Robe - The term could refer to any one of the following: 1. A generic term for clothes in general, 2. An ensemble of garments for a special use such as 'riding robes', 3. The gown and accessories worn as official insignia, i.e., emperor's robes. Roll - French farthingale, bum roll or shoulder rolls used to make garments stand away from the body. Ropilla - A gown without a train. Ruedo - Burguen : hem. Ruff - According to Linthicum , the first accounts of ruffs in the royal wardrobes is from 1548. Ruffs could be made from lawn, cambric, holland, and lace. They could be plain or elaborately decorated with needlework, lace, cutwork, blackwork, etc. Matching hand ruffs were usually made and the entire set was called a 'suit' of ruffs. Hand ruffs alone were called a 'pair'. The pleats of ruffs were maintained by lining with pasteboard or starching the fabric.

Ruffs, especially large ones, were pinned to supports (supportasse) to keep them in place. To keep ruffs nice, 'band boxes' were made for them. Ruffed, ruft - Evenly spaced gathers (cartridge pleats). Rugg - A hairy or shagged frieze. Especially suited for nightgowns and mantles. It was also used for linings and could be found in the wardrobes of all classes. Russet - Originally a homespun, coarse woolen cloth undyed and left the natural color of the wool it was produced from. Rowed - Set in rows, striped, ribbed, etc. S Similar to canvas. Safeguard - Outer skirt or petticoat to protect the gown from dirt and use. Could be as elaborate or plain as the owner could afford. Sarcenet - A thin type of silk taffeta frequently used for linings. Could also be made in a thick weave. Satin - A fabric constructed by a simple float weave which gave a smooth surface. Not as shiny as the modern satin. Most polyester satins make good substitutes. Made in all colors, and could be plain, figured, or branched.

It is a frequent item in Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe accounts. Saye - A soft, light, finely twilled fabric made in both silk and wool and used for clothing as well as hangings and tents. Scarlet - 1. (noun) An expensive, very fine worsted cloth. From the French escarlette, which could be made in many colors: vermeille, rouge, verte, peonace (peacock blue), white and black. In the reign of Henry VIII, crimson scarlet was forbidden to servants. 2. (noun) Name of a bright red. Scye - Abbreviation for armseye or arm hole. Seda - Used for outer garments as well as for linings and facings. Shag - A material with a long pile. Usually of worsted or silk and used mainly for lining. Silk shag was made into gloves, gowns, and waistcoats, and other garments where warmth was required. Shirt - A garment with a high neck and long sleeves usually made of linen, cambric or holland. Most often, the neckband and wristbands were elaborately embroidered and/or trimmed. Size, sized with gum - See Gum Arabic. Skirts - 1.

Term used to denote panels attached below the waistline of a coat or doublet, most often called 'small skirts'. 2. Generic term for the lower portion of a dress. Slops - Sometimes called trunk, round or French breeches. Usually mid thigh length, shaped like pumpkins and stuffed with hair, flocks, or bombast. They could be made in panes or in pleats. Later in the 16th Century, they were left unstuffed and allowed to fall naturally. The word could also distinguish the Venetian breeches and Galligaskins. Sometimes the straight, close fitting varieties were also referred to as trousers. Smock - Period term for chemise. See chemise. A shirt like garment worn as underwear and as sleep wear. Usually trimmed in lace or embroidery at the neck and wrists and made with front opening at the neck. Could be made from linen, lawn, cambric or other fine materials. Sobrecuello(s) - Burguen : the extra pieces used to make up a collar. Socama(s) - Burguen : piecings to complete cama pieces. Spanish round sleeve - Also known as 'Manga redonda'.

Style of sleeve, apparently originating in Spain, with an outer seam curving in to a narrow sleeve. The front seam was left open so that it could be worn as a hanging sleeve. Spanish Taffeta - A type of taffeta from Spain. Stammel - Also known as 'bastard scarlet'. A fine woolen cloth. Sometimes guarded with velvet and trimmed with lace. Starch - Usually a mixture of starch and water and used to stiffen various materials and ruffs. Stay, pl. stays - Term denoting whale bone stiffeners used in corsets and gowns. Stockings - A covering for the foot and leg to, or slightly above the knee. Long stockings or 'tall' stockings went from foot to thigh and were used with trunk hose. Also called netherstocks in contrast to the trunks or breeches. Made of silk, wool, and knitted. Could be of any color. See also Hose. Stomacher - The decorated V-shaped section of a woman's bodice. Eventually became detachable. Sometimes called a placard and always very stiff. Usually made over a foundation of pasteboard, stiffened with busks, and attached directly to the corset by means of ties or hooks.

Straw hats - Usually worn by the lower classes. Suit - 1. Term used in referring to male garb in which the entire ensemble harmonized or matched and consisted of the following: doublet, hose, coat, jerkin, mandilion, or cloak. 2. Term used to refer to the 'suit' of ruffs which included the neck ruff and matching wrist ruffs. Surcoat - A loose fitted long coat with a yoke worn by both men and woman. Sometimes referred to as a Spanish surcoat or loose gown. Supportase - Rigid support for a collar or ruff. Could be made of pasteboard, buckram or other rigid material and covered with silk. Could also be made from wire, either wrapped or unwrapped. Also known as 'rebato'. Syett, Siet - An undefined type of material. T back to the top Tabine - A thick silk of taffeta weave with a slight nap and given an moiré effect. Sometimes enriched with gold or silk thread. Tacked - Stitching to keep something in place. Taffeta Hats - The taffeta of Elizabeth's time was much favored for hats because it was lighter than velvet but still had sufficient body to hold its shape.

Taffeta, Tapheta - A finely woven silk fabric mainly used for linings. Most modern polyester taffetas will make a good substitute. Could also be woven with raised stripes which could then be cut and left like the pile of velvet. Often times the tufts were of a different color than the ground. This was known as 'tuft taffeta'.Tamine - Presumed to be the same as Estamine. A thin, fine silk or wool cloth. Terciopelo - Burguen : see velvet. Thrummed hats - Thrums were the unwoven threads at the ends of cloth or silk. A hat made so as to leave threads on the surface to form a pile were thus named. Once velvet, silk and beaver became more fashionable during Elizabeth's reign, thrummed hats became the wear of lower classes. Tiffany - Light weight silk or linen cloth which was almost see through. Usually used to cover embroidery to protect it and for veils. It could be white or black and made in fancy weaves. It was used for neckwear and for the lining of slashed garments (the puffs). Tinsel - A fabric made from silk interwoven with either gold or silver thread.

Probably a satin weave. Tissue - A type of cloth of which both warp and weft were twisted gold thread. Much used for altar clothes and church vestments. Toile - A pattern, usually made out of a medium weight material, which is then sewn together and fit onto the person. Fittings to the person are then taken. The toile is then taken apart and used to make an actual pattern for use. Train - Term refers to the back edge of a skirt, which has been extended to trail behind the gown on to the ground. Trastocara - Burguen : to switch the fabric around in order to match pattern or nap. Trunk sleeve - A type of large, cannon shaped sleeve (tapering from shoulder to wrist). Sometimes supported by undersleeves or farthingale sleeves, which were boned or wired. Tuft Taffeta - (aka Velouté, Velveted) Taffeta woven with tufts of velvet. See taffeta. Tuke - Burguen : generic child's garment, usually with a fitted body and attached skirts. Vasquiña - Burguen : see petticoat. A type of underskirt meant to be seen.

Vayeta - Burguen : see baize or baise. a type of cloth. Velvet - A silk fabric with a short pile. Excellent quality modern velvets will make O.K. substitutes. It could be woven in a variety of patterns such as checkered, changeable, figured, motley, and a type known as 'velvet upon velvet' which was a double pile, one higher than the other and usually of the same shade. Velvet was also made in two piles upon a ground of satin. Sometimes the pile loops were left uncut and this was known as 'unshorn' velvet. Venitians - A type of breeches which were fuller and longer and gathered at the knee. When ungathered at the knees were known as Spanish breeches. W back to the top Waistcoat - A waist length under-garment, with or without sleeves. A doublet was always worn over a waistcoat unless the wearer was 'in dishabille'. A woman did not appear in public in her waistcoat unless she was a 'strumpet'. The garment was made loose enough to pull on over the head. Welted, welt - Whale bone - Made from the balene of whales.

Method of stiffening garments which completely replaced the use of bents, reeds, and willow in the 1580's. Wing - Flat tabs of material, either straight or cut in a curved shape, usually stiffened and set over the top of the sleeve side by side. Wrist ruffles - Term usually referring to the wrist edge of the smock. Wrought Velvet - 18th Century Clothing Tips 18th Century Clothing Tips Mid 18th century clothing: basics for beginners Presented by Lauri Shillings Introduction Let me introduce myself. My name is Lauri Shillings. I have been creating 18th century costume for over 6 years now. I have been a seamstress for an even longer period of time. I have been coming to Ft. Ouiatenon in Lafayette, IN as a participant or spectator for more than 15 years. Most recently, I have been working from my home for myself, my clients and contracting my sewing and design services to a local sutler, Ghost Forge. I wish to thank them for their kindness in letting me use their reference library.

When not sewing I constantly study reference books, period art and scour the Internet for accurate, usable reference material. While the information I give you will be helpful in attaining a general 18th century period look, nothing compares to a well-thought out persona you have researched yourself. I supply a reading list and references used at the end of this article. How to choose and assemble a basic clothing kit for women I will focus on the mid-18th century, common, “working class” or “Goodwife” woman’s attire. I will give you this information with the consideration that we are in a French occupied fort. I will try to give you the period correct description and how it was created, then give you an “acceptable” modern equivalent. Essential, basic clothing items are: Chemise Other Accessories to add onto the basic 4 The Chemise The chemise (French) or the shift (English) was usually made of white linen. Less commonly found in Cotton or hemp fabrics. This was an all purpose garment and a woman would have had several of them. This garment goes on first under all layers of clothing next to the skin.

The sleeves were elbow length or longer, quite full and fitted to a narrow band at the elbow or a simple drawstring casing. The length is mid calf or just above. The neck opening is fitted to the gown neckline and does NOT fall off the shoulders easily. There might be a narrow drawstring casing around the neckline. These garments can be tailored to the individual, but usually come in youth and adult. White cotton muslin can be used, you will need about 3-1/2 to 4 yards fabric. Noted differences in design: a chemise for the nursing mother or wet nurse at times had a small slit at center front to ease nursing. Fancy/decorated chemises that have lace or ruffles at neckline or cuffs were for the rich. They would have been applied to the same basic chemise after it’s creation, and removed for laundering. Petticoats Petticoats (English) or Jupe (French) are the skirts of the 18th century woman. These have a full skirt (approximately 120” wide), gathered to fit a waistband of fabric tape. These are tied front and back, or would the petticoat could have a drawstring waistband.

Usually 2 or more are layered on for warmth. French women were noted for having shorter skirts than their English counterparts. Skirt length is around the mid calf. The shorter skirt offers ease in labor and movement and helps keep the skirts cleaner. Who wants to trip on their skirts while carrying a heavy load or baby? Also worn short to show off pretty clocked stockings and shoes. Fabric choices for skirts were commonly of wool, linen and silk or blends there of. Less common is cotton and hemp. Solid colors predominated. Vertical stripes are noted of the women in New France. I recommend that prints be used only when matching your top garment. Skirts are constructed with selvage edges on the sides. Raw edges were hemmed narrowly at bottom. Quilted petticoats were seen by all classes, the wealthier the person, the more luxurious the fabrics and trims. The Sleeved Gown, Jacket or Bedgown Even the poorest sort of women were known to have at least one gown for finer wear. See and research published period runaway articles for had on/took with items. Gowns are fitted garments consisting of an upper bodice section and lower skirt section reaching low calf to floor length. They have set in sleeves and often have cuffs.

They are worn over stays. Two basic gown styles for our period are the “Sack” gown. ( “sacque” or “robe á la Française”) It is distinguished by the full, loose pleats falling from the back and shoulders of the gown to the floor or hem of the garment. Shorter mid-thigh length versions of this gown are known as the “pet-en-l’air”, or “short sack”. The bodice of this gown is fitted by the inner lining that is laced close and tight to the body. The other style is the so-called “English” gown (“robe a l’angaise”). Has a fitted back done in 2 different methods: 1) by stitched down pleats in the center back section that flows in one long piece into the skirt (“en fourreau”), or 2) by separately cut pieces that are seamed to the skirt. The en fourreau style is first half to 3rd quarter and the pieced method comes in to fashion in the 1770’s.

Styling details: Robings that look like turned back lapels on a gown front are seen on the majority of gowns up to mid century (1750’s and 1760’s). They pin or lace over a “stomacher” that concealed the stays beneath. The style trend after mid century is the front and side pieces are being stitched together, resulting in a smoother, tighter fitting front. Jackets are fitted, sleeved garments of widely varying styles. They nearly always have set in sleeves. Sometimes they have cuffs. Jackets generally have skirts that vary in length from hip high to much lower, but not as low as a full gown. A good stopping point is below hip, above knee. Ladies of New France were noted to have worn a “mantelet” also known as: a woman’s waistcoat, fitted bodice, juste. It is a woman’s garment; it has sleeves, occasionally with cuffs. It closes in front with hooks and eyes or with lacing in front or in back. If you have seen the painting “the Chocolate Girl” The jacket style shown is what I am describing. Other jacket styles are caraco, cassaquin, and Riding habits.

Bedgowns or shortgowns are unfitted or loose fitted (via stitched down back pleating) garments that are open at the center front. They are t-shaped and have large roomy sleeves that are cut in one piece with the body of the garment. These garments are undress or work wear. Undress does not necessarily mean “at-home” It means anything less than a formal occasion. Common women might have worn these all the time. This garment is very utilitarian and comfortable. I have grouped the style shortgown in this area. Some evidence shows that the shortgown is peculiar to the mid-Atlantic region, perhaps even to CT or PA. Choose your fabrics carefully. Heavier weight cotton can be used in place of linen, unless you can get good linen. Silk blends and wool blends can be used. Acceptable period prints are hard to find unless you know what you are looking for. Stick with solids, or vertical stripes until you are more comfortable with textiles of the time. Gowns take about 8-10 yards of fabric, Jackets and bedgowns around 4 yards. If you don’t have stays or do not want to wear them, I recommend that you wear a less fitted bedgown or jacket.

It is less obvious that you are not wearing stays with these choices. Caps A peasant in France or a habitante in New France always covered her hair with some kind of a cap. It was the rule based on religious customs. There were many possible head-dress. And styles were changing constantly. The basic Cap was of white linen, had a larger piece of cloth called the crown, and was pleated to a band or brim. Some had decoration of ruffles, ribbon or lace added. White muslin is an acceptable substitute. Lappet caps were noted among the woman of New France, along with a style of turban noted as being a square of blue check cloth wrapped around the head then tied afore with the two square ends hanging in back. More research is needed on this item, how it is worn, and by whom. Other Accessories Items to add to the basic 4 as interest and money allow: Kerchief, Apron, pockets, stays, cloak, stockings and shoes. Shoes should be black or brown leather with a low heel, closed toe and preferably a buckle type closure. Heeled “mules” are acceptable. Wooden shoes or “clogs” could be worn.

Aprons can be white if you are portraying a better sort. Wool in a color is better for work., especially if around a fire. Pockets are necessary if you are going to carry anything personal, not period correct. Like a cell phone, modern watches wallet, etc. Stays are expensive, for good reason. If you are serious about your hobby, invest in a well-made set from someone you know, or have good references for. Ill-fitting stays are not worth any price. Stockings are thigh high and are gartered below the knee. How to choose and assemble a basic clothing kit for men I will focus on the mid-18th century, common man attire. Once again, with the consideration that we are in a French occupied fort, I will try to give you the period correct description and how it was created, then give you an “acceptable” modern equivalent. Essential, basic clothing items are: Shirt Accessories to add later The Shirt The men’s shirt was the equivalent to the woman’s chemise. It is the basic undergarment and is all purpose clothing. It is t-shaped with set in long sleeves that are rather full and have cuffs. There is a basic collar and it has a slit at center front.

It closes at the neck with a tie or button. Length is mid thigh with side vents. Seams were flat felled for durability. Men’s shirts have changed little over time except for details on collar height, sleeve fullness and fasteners. Predominantly white linen. Less common to be found in cotton, fustian or hemp. Voyagers brought “Trade goods” for native peoples and these goods became integrated into everyday wear as trade shirts. Bright colors, stripes and calimanco weaves. Some printed indienne cottons/linens. White muslin is acceptable substitute. As well as solid colors and stripes in appropriate colors. Woven checks could be used as well. Study your textiles before purchasing print shirts. Breeches Every man and boy over age 5 wore breeches. They have a fitted waist, button fly and come to just below the knee, and have a fitted knee band closure. Fall front style comes in to vogue around 1760’s and 1770’s. Breeches are commonly found in wool, less common in linen, cotton and hemp. Silk breeches were for the wealthy.

Trousers were not common until very late 18thC/ early 19th century. Most breeches you find ready made today at vendors are of canvas. This is an “o.k.” substitute. Heavy linen or fustian would be better, they feel better and are more comfortable. Slops are acceptable working attire and are historically noted by 1st person accounts to be “common” attire for the workingman or for any dirty job. They are a loose version of the breeches out of lighter weight fabric and lacking the fitted knee band. Closing instead with a tie below the knee, if any closure is wanted. These could be worn alone, or over your breeches. Both slops and breeches should have been worn with stockings and shoes, if you weren’t barefoot. Stockings would be thigh high and be gartered below the knee. Shoes are leather and have a low square heel, closed toe and preferably have a buckle type of closure. Breechclout Canadiens traveling for the fur trade adopted the breechclout of the natives early on to replace the cumbersome breeches. A simple long and narrow rectangle of wool draped between the legs and held at waist with a belt or leather thong.

Also worn around home during the summer. The shirt being quite long would have covered the ‘clout completely. Not every man wore these, and not everyman should today. Wool, lined in the crotch is your best modern equivalent. Leggings Another piece of clothing adopted by the Canadians to complement the breechclout was the soft wool leggings called “mitasses”. They are held below the knee with garters and are tied to the belt or leather thong that supports the ‘clout. These looked like gaiters with out the buttons. What to put on your head Headgear of the male habitante of New France was historically noted to be the Tuque. This is a knitted hat that is cocoon shaped. One end pushed inside the other to make a double thickness and is typically red. Many styles of hats are to be found for men. Choose one that fits your persona and financial status. Kerchiefs can be tied over the head in a “dew-rag” fashion in a pinch. Head gear is not mandatory for men during this era. However, long hair was predominant and if you don’t have long hair, you might do better with a head covering.

Accessories for men Things to add to your kit would be: kerchief, haversack, waistcoat, and a capot or jacket. Apron of leather. Waistcoat or Veste is a type of justaucorps that goes down to the knees. It is a sleeved garment with no collar and has buttons on the front. Some research indicates that English waistcoats are made without sleeves, and the French’s were cut with sleeves. A few French waistcoats without sleeves were noted in period inventories. The fact that they are listed specifically “without” sleeves leads me to believe that sleeves were more common. The capot was the jacket of choice for men in New France and was considered ordinary attire. Historically it is predominant over other coats. Its cut is inspired by the justaucorps but is overlapping in front in a double-breasted manner and has a hood. It closes at the neck with a single button. A belt holds it closed around the waist. Capots are commonly made of heavy weight wool, Summer capots are of lighter weight wool. Other choices could include the “mantelet” or justaucorps. English versions were the “frock” coat.

References: Costume Close Up Clothing Construction and Pattern 1750-1790, Linda Baumgarten & John Watson with Florine Carr Costume in New France from 1740 to 1760 a Visual Dictionary, by Suzanne and Andre Gousse Fitting & Proper 18th Century Clothing from the Collection of the Chester County Historical Society, By Sharon Ann Burnston. Patterns of Fashion 1 c1660-1860, Englishwomen’s Dresses and Their Construction. By Janet Arnold. Whatever Shall I Wear? A Guide to Assembling a Woman’s Basic 18th Century Wardrobe by Mara Riley Who Was I? Creating a Living History Persona, A Modest Guide to the Hows and Whys, by Cathy Johnson My deepest gratitude goes to all on the 18cWoman newsgroup at Yahoo.com, whose discussion constantly keeps me thinking in new ways. Also visit at yahoo newsgroups: Beginning Living History RevList Used with permission. The gift shop at the Tippecanoe Battlefield Museum in Battle Ground stocks period patterns, sashes, moccasins and some ready-made clothing for Feast participants.

For further guidance on Feast wear, call the Tippecanoe County Historical Association at 765-476-8411.

Question: A ‘Justacorps’ was which type of garment worn by men in the 17th and 18th Centuries?
Answer: Coat