Bowline - How to tie a Bowline Home Rope Knots Bowline Bowline One of the most useful knots you can know. The Bowline forms a secure loop that will not jam and is easy to tie and untie. The Bowline is most commonly used for forming a fixed loop, large or small at the end of a line. Tried and tested over centuries, this knot is reliable, strong and stable. Even after severe tension is applied it is easy to untie. However, because it does untie so easily it should not be trusted in a life or death situation such as mountain climbing. It is said to retain 60% of the strength of the line in which it is tied. Bowline Knot Tying Instructions Lay the rope across your left hand with the free end hanging down. Form a small loop in the line in your hand. Bring the free end up to and pass through the eye from the under side (the rabbit comes out of the hole). Wrap the line around the standing line and back down through the loop (around the tree and back down the hole). Tighten the knot by pulling on free end while holding standing line Swiffy Output Sailing knots; The important knots to know.

Sailing Knots There are several knots commonly used in sailing. You won't use every one each day however, they all serve a purpose and each one will prove invaluable at some point in a week long voyage. Most of these are quite easy to tie and with a bit of practice you'll be amazed at your new found skills in rope tying. The knots are listed in their approximate order of usefulness. Several of these knots are also quite helpful around the home or lashing down that sheet of plywood on top of your SUV. So, grab a couple lengths of line and give these a try! For an excellent animated guide to knot tying go to: Animated Knots by Grog Bowline. The bowline almost defines sailing because of its versatility, usefulness, and strength. Since it's a popular knot there are many ways to tie it but you only need to know one. Click image for larger version. Uses: Creates a temporary (as opposed to a permanent eye splice), non-slipping loop in the end of a line. This loop can then be dropped over a piling for docking. Tie any two lines together with interlocking bowlines. Tie jib sheets onto the clew of the jib.

Tie a bowline on a bight for a quick bosun's chair. Learn how to tie the bowline here . Round Turn and Two Half Hitches. This is a great, highly useful, and reliable knot. It is a constrictor knot meaning the tighter you pull on the line the tighter the knot gets. Also, it is one of the very few knots that can be tied or untied with tension in the line. Doesn't jam. Doesn't slip. Click image for larger version. Uses: Bowline Knot The Bowline Description The bowline is an exceptionally versatile knot. It is quick to tie (once you practice), it doesn't slip and it doesn't jam. It can be used to attach jib sheets to the jib's clew. It is a fast way to make a loop, and it can even be used to tie two lines together, though a double sheet hitch is probably preferred. Step by Step Instructions Knots everyone should know [ Glossary of Terms for knots ] The Bowline The Bowline Knot is one of the most used loop knots. This variant is most used in the world. Probably due to its simplicity, security, and its relationship with the Sheet bend.

Keep the cross point in step A between a finger and thumb and make a clock-wise turn with your wrist. Without the loop in between, it is the same knot. If the loop is expected to be heavily loaded, the bowline is, in fact, not secure enough. There is a rule of thumb which states that the loose end should be as long as 12 times the circumference for the sake of safety. The Bowline "Lay the bight to make a hole Then under the back and around the pole Over the top and thru the eye Cinch it tight and let it lie" In the same way that a Left Handed Sheet bend is a Sheet bend that has the running end of the rope coming out of the wrong side of the knot, a cowboy bowline is a bowline that also has the running end of the rope coming out of the wrong side of the knot. It suffers the same problems as the left handed sheet bend. Don't be afraid to use this knot to form a loop of any size in rope. For added security, finish the knot with a stop knot such as a figure eight knot to remove any possibility of the Bowline slipping. You can use this knot to put your hammock up.

Use it whenever a stable knot is needed to support your weight. You should make sure that your bowline, when tied around a tree, is finished with a slip knot. Otherwise you will find great difficulty getting your hammock off the tree in the morning. If There is NO animation of this knot Click The Refresh Button To tie: 1. Make the overhand loop with the end held toward you, then pass end through loop. 2. Now pass end up behind the standing part, then down through the loop again. 3. Draw up tight. A useful "STOP" knot to temporarily bulk out the end of a rope or cord the finished knot looks like its name. It is superior to using a Thumb Knot, because it does not jam so easily. If There is NO animation of this knot Click The Refresh Button The figure eight is useful to temporarily stop the ends of a rope fraying, before it is whipped. To tie: 1. Make underhand loop, bringing end around and over the standing part. 2. Pass end under, then up through the loop. 3. Draw up tight.

(Angler's knot, English knot, Englishman's bend, Halibut knot, True Lover's bend, Waterman's knot) The Fisherman's knot is used to tie two ropes of EQUAL THICKNESS together. In other cases, use a method of bending two ropes together, such as a Sheetbend , a Double Sheetbend It is used by fishermen to join fishing line, and is very effective with small diameter strings and twines. Tie a Thumb knot , in the running end of the first rope around the second rope. Then tie a thumb knot in the second rope, around the first rope. Note the Thumb knots are tied such they lie snugly against each other when the standing ends are pulled. If There is NO animation of this knot Click The Refresh Button When tying knots in monofilament line, moisten the line before pulling the knot tight. This helps to stop the line heating up with friction, which weakens it. Lark's Head (Cow Hitch, Lanyard Hitch) The Lark's head knot is used to LOOSELY attach a rope to a pole or ring The knot has two redeeming features, it is easy to tie, and it does not jam.

However, it will slip fairly easily along the pole, and may slip undone when tied using man made fibre ropes. If There is NO animation of this knot Click The Refresh Button Reef Knot (Square Knot) An excellent general purpose knot for tying two pieces of string or twine together, the reef knot is possibly the most commonly used knot for the job, and is easy to learn. However, it cannot be overly stressed that the Reef knot is not a long term or secure knot, and it should only be used to finish parcels or bindings. In other cases, use a more secure method of bending two ropes together, such as a Sheetbend , a Double Sheetbend , or a Fisherman's Knot . If There is NO animation of this knot Click The Refresh Button Unfortunately, the Reef knot can easily change into a slipping Lark's Head , so it should never be used where life or limb are at risk. Holding one end of each rope in each hand, pass the left rope over the right, and tuck under. Then pass the same rope, now in the right hand, over the left rope, and tuck under. A common to chant "Left over Right and Under, Right over Left and Under" when tying the knot.

(This can also be performed as "Right over Left and Under, Left over Right and Under".) The reef knot can easily be undone by gripping one loose end, and pulling it back over the knot, in the opposite direction, thus straightening the rope which is pulled. The other rope forms a Lark's Head knot , and slips off the tugged rope. The knot gets its name from its use on sailing ships, when the sails were "reefed" - rolled up and tied to the cross spar with a reef knot. To release the sail, the sailors would climb the rigging, and work their way along the cross spar, pulling the top end of the reef knot down. They only had to use one hand, holding on with the other. The weight of the sail would cause the reef knot to slip, and the sail would be released. If you want to tie two ropes together of similar thickness then never use a Reef knot. Only use it with string and twine when tying parcels, whippings and bindings. Never use this knot to join ropes of two different thicknesses.

Taut line Hitch or Rolling Hitch (Magner's Hitch, Magnus Hitch) This hitch is really just an adjustable loop used for non-critical applications where you need to adjust the size of a loop to apply tension to guy lines, like on your tent. This hitch is used to attach one rope to a second, in such a manner that the first rope can be easily slid along the second. If There is NO animation of this knot Click The Refresh Button The knot can be considered a Clove hitch with an additional turn. When tension is applied and the ropes form a straight line, the rolling hitch will lock onto the first rope. When the tension is released, the hitch can be loosened and slid along the first rope to a new location. The tension must be applied on the side of the knot with the extra turn. Use this knot if you have a guy rope with no adjuster. Create a loop on the end of a second rope which is slipped over the peg. Use a rolling hitch to attach the second rope to the guyline. Alternatively, take the guyline around the peg and tie the Rolling hitch back onto the standing part of the guyline, above the peg, thus forming an adjustable loop. Also known as the Tautline Hitch.

When adjustments are complete, lock the rolling hitch into place by using a stop knot such as a figure eight in the first rope, below the Rolling hitch, to stop it slipping. Since it will only slide one way, the Taut-line hitch is often used on tent ropes. The taut-line hitch will hold firmly on a smooth pole. Place rope end around pole, make a turn below it, then bring rope up across the standing part around the pole and tuck through. The knot must be drawn up very snugly to work, and may not work at all on especially stiff or slippery rope. Don't expect too much from it. It's not a very secure loop. If you tie down a load on the back of a truck with this, you're likely to find that your lines have gone slack after a few miles. Round turn and two half hitches Used to secure a rope to a pole, or to start or finish a lashing. Pass the running end of the rope over the pole twice. Then pass the running end over the standing part of rope, and tuck it back up and under itself, forming a half hitch. Repeat this for a second half hitch.

If There is NO animation of this knot Click The Refresh Button This knot has a redeeming feature it rarely jams! Superior to a Clove hitch for starting and finishing a lashing as the half hitches prevent this knot from unrolling, as they have the effect of locking the knot. The Clove hitch looks neater but it has a tendency to unroll, and can be difficult to tie tightly when tying off. Sheepshank The Sheepshank is a shortening knot, which enables a rope to be shortened non-destructively. If There is NO animation of this knot Click The Refresh Button The knot is only really secure under tension, it will fall apart when slack. Use up to five half hitches each end of the Sheepshank to make the knot more secure, and for fine tuning the shortening. Try to refrain from cutting ropes to shorten them! Always use a shortening knot such as the Sheepshank, or coil the excess. Sheet Bend (Flag Bend, Common Bend) The Sheetbend is commonly used to tie two ropes of unequal thickness together.

The thicker rope of the two is used to form a bight, and the thinner rope is passed up through the bight, around the back of the bight, and then tucked under itself. If There is NO animation of this knot Click The Refresh Button The knot should be tied with both ends coming off the same side of the bend, as illustrated here. However it can easily be accidentally tied with the ends coming off opposite sides of the bend, when it is known as the Left Handed Sheet Bend . The Left Handed Sheet Bend is to be avoided as it is less secure. If the ropes are of very unequal thickness, or placed under a lot of tension, The Double Sheetbend is a more secure form of the Sheetbend . If There is NO animation of this knot Click The Refresh Button The thicker rope of the two is used to form a bight, and the thinner rope is passed up through the bight, around the back of the bight, around again before tucking under itself. It is particularly useful when the thickness of the two ropes varies considerably, or when a more secure Sheetbend is required. Left Handed Sheet Bend This knot is a wrongly tied Sheetbend , a very easy mistake to make.

The ends of the ropes should both come off the same side of the knot, and NOT off opposite sides as shown here. The knot strength is severely reduced, and this knot should be avoided. If There is NO animation of this knot Click The Refresh Button Avoid this knot under all circumstances. Always use a Sheetbend . Terms of This Website Copyright © 2000 Jon's Images, Inc. All rights reserved DISCLAIMER: PLEASE READ - By printing, downloading, or using any info from this site, you agree to our full terms. Review the full terms by clicking here . Below is a summary of some of the terms. If you do not agree to the full terms, do not use the information. All information on this web site is provided as a free service. Under no conditions does it constitute professional advice. No representations are made as to the completeness, accuracy, comprehensiveness or otherwise of the information provided. This site is considered publishers of this material, not authors. Information may have errors or be outdated. Some information is from historical sources or represents opinions of the author. It is for research purposes only. The information is "AS IS", "WITH ALL FAULTS". User assumes all risk of use, damage, or injury.

You agree that we have no liability for any damages. We are not liable for any consequential, incidental, indirect, or special damages. You indemnify us for claims caused by you. Rope Knots - All Rope Knots Animated and Illustrated | How to tie all knots for Boating, Climbing, Scouting, Survival, Rope Knots Home Rope Knots Rope Knots This selection of rope knots is for use by boaters, paddlers, scouts, search and rescue, arborists, climbers and all outdoor pursuits. It includes a large range of essential utility knots. Although there are literally thousands of different knots, the knots illustrated and animated here include the best knots from the three primary knot categories: Loop Knots (make a loop in the rope), Bends (rope to rope knots) and Hitches (rope to object knots). We have also grouped knots that are common to various applications such as Arborist Knots, Boating Knots, Climbing Knots and Knots useful in Search and Rescue. You can also use the Search box above to search the site for any specific knot name that you are looking for.

Bear in mind that it is far more important to learn a few knots well than to half learn a whole bunch of knots! Choose the type of knot desired below. Climbing Knots for the Mountaineer and Rock Climber WATER / DEHYDRATION Knots - are an extremely important part of climbing and mountaineering . No climber could be complete or safe without some basic knowledge of knots. On this page, I will show you what I believe to be some of the most important knots that you need to be familiar with. There are multitudes of knots that can be tied, and if you knew them all you would be not only set for climbing, but also to tie off a clipper ship. But I have found that the knots shown on this page have been sufficient for me to get along quite well over the years on many climbing and mountaineering excursions. If you would like to advance even further in the art of knot tying, there are many good books, and other websites that specialize in knots, and you may want to explore them on your own if you feel so inclined. The Waterman Knot - This Knot is a very useful knot for tying two ends of webbing together.

This is extremely important in climbing and mountaineering, because 3/4; or "1" inch webbing is used all the time for runners, anchors (by throwing it over a knob or projection), aid (for stepping into), or even for a safety harness for rappelling and climbing. The uses of the humble webbing seem to be endless. But in order to do any of the above, the webbing must be configured into a loop, and that requires tying the two ends together. Here is where the "Waterman Knot" comes into play. It is the perfect knot for tying those ends together. The two colors of webbing shown below are for illustrative purposes only. You can also use the waterman knot to extend the length of a piece of webbing by tying another piece of webbing to it (the length is only limited by the amount of webbing you have on hand). But for the most part, climbers use a 5 or 6 foot piece of webbing and tie the two ends together to make a loop. This seems to be somewhat of a standard length of webbing in mountaineering.

Tied off loops of webbing are so important that most climbers carry several of these pre-configured loops on every climb they go on. Webbing can be used for aid, runners, protection, and for a multitude of other uses out there. #1 - To start the knot, make a simple overhand knot configuration as shown with the red webbing. Then begin to lay the other end of the webbing directly on top of the end portion of the other end as shown in the red. #2 - Next, continue to lay the yellow webbing directly on top of the red webbing following it exactly around in the opposite direction. #3 - Now feed the yellow end under the bridge of webbing where the small two black arrows are. #4 - Nearly done. All you need to do is to pull the two ends tight, and you will have a first class "Waterman Knot." Make sure you have 2 or 3 inches of loose on each side for added security. The Fisherman Knot - Like the Waterman Knot above, the use of the Fisherman Knot is similar. It is used to tie two ends of rope together, but that is where the similarity ends.

As you will see below, it is tied in a completely different way. The Fisherman Knot is useful for tying two ropes together for the purpose of rappelling often times. This allows two - 50 or 60 meter ropes to be tied together. This allows the mountaineer to rappel over 150 feet and still be able to retrieve his rope. The Fisherman Knot is also used for tying narrow diameter rope together for protection purposes and also for short loops of rope that can be used to prusik up a fixed line for ascending purposes. The four step process of the Fisherman Knot is shown below. #1 - Lay the two ends of the ropes side by side as shown. #2 - Next, Take the loose end of the rope coming from the left and tuck it under both lines to begin your coils. #3 - As you can see, the purple colored rope coils around the yellow rope leading to the left. Two coils should be sufficient, but you could do three if you want to make it even more secure. #4 - Next, take the loose end of the purple rope and feed it back through the coils to the right.

#5 - Now tighten up the purple rope and it should look something like the above configuration. #6 - Now begin to complete the steps we just performed with the yellow rope. It will be the mirror image of the right as shown above. #7 - Feed the loose end of the yellow rope back through the coils just like we did with the purple rope. #8 - Last pull it all tight and you should have something the looks like the above configuration. As mentioned above, this is a great way to tie two ropes together. The greater the load, the tighter the knots become, as they press against each other. Double Figure Eight - The double figure eight knot is very fast to tie, and in my experience, a very secure knot. This knot is a good one for quickly tying of the rope to a piece of protection, or tying in climbers in sequence on glacier travel. These are only a couple of uses. You will no doubt find many other uses for the Double Figure Eight Knot. Below is a four stop sequence showing how to tie this knot. #1 - Double back the rope and create a loose loop as shown. #2 - Next, turn the doubled rope to the left, and create a circle of rope as shown above.

#3 - Take the loose loop of rope that extends to the right in figure two, and wind it over the top of the double line. #4 - Lastly, take the larger loop "A" in figure three, and wind it under the small doubled coil shown in figure three "B" and pull it through from beneath. Finally, pull the ends tight. You should now have a configuration that looks similar to the above. The Bowline Knot - The bowline knot is another very valuable knot in the climber's arsenal. This is a must know how to tie knot for every climber and mountaineer. It is one of the most secure knots if tied correctly, and is used often for tying directly to the climber's safety harness. You will find many other uses for this knot also.

An old saying for tying this knot goes something like this: "Through the hole around the pole and back down the hole" Below is a six part series on the "Bowline Knot" #1 - Start off laying the rope over itself to form a loop by going "around the pole" #2 - Next, take the end of the rope and go up 'through the hole" #3 - Next, take the loose end and go underneath the long end of the rope for "around the pole" once more. #4 - Next, take the loose end of the rope once more and go "back down the hole." #5 - Finally dress up the knot and pull it tight to finish up, and you have a nice neat Bowline Knot. #6 Some climbers will use a little more rope so they can take the loose end tie an extra knot on the main line to make the overall knot a bit more secure (above knot it reversed from the photo to the left). The Prusik Knot - The prusik knot is used most often by climbers for self rescue situations. This knot enables a climber to ascend a single rope.

This would be useful, for example, for extricating oneself out of a crevice in a glaciated region. A prusik knot would also come into play if a climber fell on an overhanging section of a rock wall and swung out of contact with the terrain. Being able to climb back up the rope to the anchor would be very useful indeed. Mechanical ascenders can also be used for these types of self rescues, but a lightweight loop of rope is many times more practical than carrying the extra weight of ascender (not to mention the expense). Therefore, I believe it is very important for any climber who ventures into the wild to have a knowledge of how to tie a prusik knot. You never know when your life could depend on it. Below is a five part illustration of the "Prusik Knot." #1 - Create a loop using a lightweight determined length of rope. You need to make use of the "Fisherman Knot" as shown above to tie the ends together. Then begin to wind the loop around the main rope (in red) shown above. #2 - Next, continue to wrap the loop of rope around the main rope. The more the wraps, the more the friction.

Two or three wraps should be enough. #3 - Above shows the prusik knot nearly complete. From here all you need to do is pull the coil from the right, and tighten it up as shown in figure #4. #4 - Prusik knot completed. #5 - Prusik knot in action. Well, that's it for the knots section of Timberline Trails. I believe that it will serve you well in your climbing and mountaineering career if you are able to master the above knots. In my years of experience I have found them to be by far the most important knots to learn. For other Timberline Topics, just click on the below link and jump back to the top of the page and select another side or top link for more adventure! Rock Climbing Knots: Double Bowline Double Bowline Knot This knot is sometimes used as a "tie-in", to attach the rope to the climber's harness, instead of the standard figure eight follow through . It has the advantage over the figure eight of being easier to untie after the knot has been weighted.

However, it has several disadvantages, such as being less simple to visually inspect, and prone to slippage, requiring the addition of a stopper knot to be really secure. It's also considered weaker than the figure eight. Follow these steps to tie a double bowline: Step 1: Form two loops and thread the tie in point (harness, whatever). Steps 2 & 3: Weave the rope back through the loops, around the main line, then down through the loops again. Step 4: Wrap the tail as pictured. Step 5: Finish with a stopper knot to ensure there is no slippage. Further Reading: Essential Knots | The Knots You Need to Know | Important Knots Knot Terminology Knot & Rope Safety Rope Properties Contact About Facebook Which are they? Basic Knots: The Basic Knots should be known by anyone using knots. These knots represent an essential minimum – the basis of many other knots. The section also explains the difference between some common knots: Half Hitch , Half Knot and Overhand Knot . Fishing: The Fishing knots are in alphabetical order. The various knots serve similar purposes but have advantages in different circumstances.

Essential introductory knots might include: Blood Knot (Barrel Knot) , Clinch , Double Surgeon's Loop , and Palomar . Boating: The Boating Knots are also listed in alphabetical order. Which ones are vital? We would love it if every person we took sailing knew how to tie a mooring line using a Round Turn with Two Half-Hitches . They often don't! The following are also on our essential list: Bowline , Cleat Hitch , Clove Hitch , Figure Eight Knot , Rolling Hitch , Sheet Bend , and Square (Reef) Knot . Climbing: Similarly the Climbing knots are also in alphabetical order. For beginners it would be a start if a student knew at least the Double Fisherman's Knot (Grapevine Knot) , Figure Eight Knot , Figure Eight on a Bight , Figure Eight Follow-Through , Safety knot , and Water knot . However, serious climbers would add the Alpine Butterfly , Double Fisherman's , Double Overhand Stopper , Klemheist . Munter Mule , and Prusik .

In both the Boating and the Climbing sections, these knots would seem to be worth learning: they serve different functions; none of them should jam; and none should be too awkward to untie - at least when the load is off. Arborist: The Arborist knots were mostly based on the "Must Know" knots listed in Knots at Work by Jeff Jepson. Scouting: The Scouting knots and lashings are also in alphabetical order. The knots have been selected from lists published by different Scouting Organizations in various countries. They meet the published requirements for Advancement and Merit Badges – with a few additional useful knots. Search and Rescue: The Search and Rescue knots are also in alphabetical order. The various knots serve different purposes and were selected by consulting S&R experts. Splicing: The Splicing knots are grouped by type of splice. The rope material and the purpose of a splice govern its importance.. Household: The Household knots are once again in alphabetical order. They were included on the basis of personal and practical daily activities. Decorative: The Decorative knots are grouped by the objective: mats, sinnets, knots using a rope's strands, etc.

Rope Care: The Rope Care knots are grouped by the objective: whipping, coiling, etc. Disclaimer: Any activity that involves ropes is potentially hazardous. Lives may be at risk - possibly your own. Considerable attention and effort have been made to ensure that these descriptions are accurate. However, many critical factors cannot be controlled, including: the choice of materials; the age, size, and condition of ropes; and the accuracy with which these descriptions have been followed. No responsibility is accepted for incidents arising from the use of this material. Copyright Knots To Know Centauri Knot - This knot is principally used to attach hooks through the eye to the line. Works well on a wide range of line strengths and claims to retain 96% of breaking strain. Uni Knot - This versatile knot can be used can be used for connecting hooks, swivels, rings and lures. Its main advantage is that it retains virtually 90% breaking strain. Easy to tie even in the dark after practice. Palomar Knot - An all purpose hook to line knot. Very quick to tie and reasonably strong. Perhaps 100% breaking strain.

Hook Snell - Quick and simple method of attaching line to a hook with an up or down turned eye. Can only be used with a free length of line as both ends must pass through the eye. Hook Snood - This is a high strength knot to attach trace line to a hook. It's main advantage is the hook will lay along the direction of the line. Note that the length of the trace will be the length of the loop. Perfect loop - One of the better loop knots and can be used on lighter lines although best suited to the heavier. It will not kill the action of the lure or fly. Function: Connecting lures or fly to heavy leader, trace or shock tippet. Strength: Retains 70+ strength Thumb Knot - A knot useful for attaching hooks and rings to heavy line. May require some practice to sequentially ease the loops off your thumb. Half Blood Knot - This is a high strength multi purpose knot. It's main use is to attach swivels, hooks and lures to the main line. Assist the formation by pulling down on the roll towards the base. Clinched Half Blood - This is a high strength multi purpose knot.

It's main use is attaching swivels,lures or hooks to the main line. Formation should be assisted by pulling down to the base. Albright Knot - This knot is used to join two lines of different thicknesses. It is used to attach a heavier 'leader' (rather than a double) to a lighter main line. It requires careful forming of the loops. Blood Knot - This is a high strength knot to join two similar thicknesses of line. It's main advantage is it's low profile enabling it to run smoothly through rod line guides. Wind on Wire Leader - A fairly simple join which enables reasonably long plastic coated wire traces to be wound up through the rod guides. Can be used for casting lures. Blood Bight Knot - This knot is used to create drop loops in light line traces. Its advantages are that the dropper tends to stand out from the main line and it's reputed 95% retained breaking strain. Drop Loop - This is a high strength loop for the main line. It's main use is to form a loop for attaching sinkers to the main line.

As with all knots remember to lubricate the line before pulling tight Seven Essential Knots for Sailors - Sail Magazine Sailboat DIY And Repair Tips Seven Essential Knots for Sailors Seven Essential Knots for Sailors Jeff Werner | April 1, 2015 Once you cut a piece of rope off the spool at the chandlery and bring it aboard your boat and give it a job to do, it becomes a line you have put to work. Whatever job it is performing—whether it becomes a jibsheet, a fender whip or a dockline—there is an ideal knot, hitch or bend for its given task. Types of knots fall into three general categories. The first are those tied on the end of a line and are commonly called “knots,” such as the bowline knot and the stopper knot. The second category are those used to join two lines together. They may have “bend” in their name, as in a sheet bend, because to bend, in sailor talk, means to join.

The last group are those which secure a line to a cleat, piling or stanchion, and they are known as “hitches.” If you didn’t learn knots when you were young, you can still master them quickly. The key is to learn what a given knot should look like when completed, then practice tying it until you can do it with your eyes closed. When studying knots, it helps to know some terms. The ends of a line are referred to as either “working” or “standing.” The working end is free, while the standing end is secured to something. A loop formed in a line is known as a bight. Bowline The most useful knot aboard a sailboat is the bowline. It forms a fixed noose at the end of a line that cannot run or slip and is commonly used, for example, to secure sheets to the clew of a headsail. Two bowlines can also be used to connect two lines. The great advantage of a bowline is that no matter how tight it becomes after being loaded for a while, it can always be easily untied.

The well known ditty for tying a bowline runs as follows: “The rabbit comes out of the hole, goes around back of the tree, and then jumps back into the hole.” The “rabbit” is the working end of the line; the “hole” and “tree” are formed in the standing end. To finish the knot properly, give a hard pull on the tree and the rabbit’s ears at the same time, so the shape of the knot is not deformed. To untie a bowline, turn the knot over and break its back by bending it downward. Form a closed loop in the line, with the working end passing over the standing end. Pass the working end through the loop, around behind the standing end, then back into the loop. Give a hard pull to close the knot up tight. To untie a bowline, turn the knot over and break its back by bending it downward. Stopper Knot To keep a line from pulling through a block or rope clutch, a knot should be tied in the end of it. The most secure knot for doing this is the double overhand stopper knot, known as the stopper knot for short.

Unlike a simple overhand knot or a figure eight knot, this knot does not come loose easily. The easiest way to tie a true stopper knot is by using your hand as a form. Just loop the end of the line twice around the palm of your hand, tuck the working end under the two loops, and then pull the loops off your hand. Once you try it, you’ll never use a figure eight again. Working back to front, pass the working end twice around the palm of your open hand. After you’ve got two full wraps, pass the working end under the wraps on your palm away from your thumb. Then use the end to pull the knot tight as it slips off your hand. Clove Hitch This is a handy knot because it can be tied very quickly. On sailboats its usual use is for securing fender whips to a lifeline, stanchion base or toerail. It can be easily adjusted to raise or lower a fender as needed. The clove hitch can also be used to temporarily secure a dock line to a piling, but be aware that the hitch can unexpectedly work free as the boat moves around at the dock. Take one full turn around the object the line is being secured to.

Then pass the line over itself as you take another turn. Finish the knot by tucking the working end under itself and pull tight. Sheet Bend Many sailors use a square knot when tying two lines together, but these often come loose when not under load. The sheet bend is more secure, is easy to untie and works much better when two lines of unequal diameter need to be tied together. As you can see in the illustration, its final form is only slightly different from a square knot, though it is tied quite differently. Form a bight in the end of one line. Pass the end of the other line through the bight from beneath and around behind both parts of the first line. Finish the knot by passing the working end of the second line under itself, then pull the knot tight. Two Half Hitches This knot has a self-explanatory name: one half hitch, followed by another half hitch. It is easy to tie and forms a running noose that can be made larger or smaller. This is the perfect hitch to use to tie a line tightly around an object. Combined with a round turn, it is an excellent way to secure a dock line to a piling.

Tying two half hitches on top of a clove hitch is also the best way to keep a fender whip from slipping. Pass the line twice around the object it is being secured to. Then tie one hitch on top of the turns by passing the working end of the line behind the standing end and pulling it through. Repeat to tie the second hitch. You can tie two half hitches without taking turns first, but they are less secure this way. Rolling Hitch The rolling hitch comes to the rescue when riding turns jam a line on a winch drum. This hitch is designed not to slip. Use an extra line to tie a rolling hitch on the standing portion of a jammed line, shift the load to the extra line and you can free the jammed line. The rolling hitch will also keep any line secured to a vertical cylindrical object, such as a stanchion, from slipping. It can also be used to form an adjustable noose that doesn’t slip under load, which is handy when securing tie-downs for an awning on deck. The Boy Scouts use the same knot to tension lines secured to tent pegs, only they call it a taut line hitch. Wrap a line twice around another fixed line or post.

Take a third turn by passing the working end of the first line over its standing end and then around the second line above the first two turns. Pull on the standing part of the first line and the hitch will not slip down the second line. Cleat Hitch Walk down a dock in any marina and you will see many dock lines improperly secured to cleats. A proper cleat hitch is easy to tie, very effective and it can be released under load without worrying about losing a finger in the process. Any time you make off a line on a cleat, on a dock or on deck, this is the knot to use. As you gain experience, you will begin to recognize families of knots that are related. For example, two half hitches and the cleat hitch are really clove hitches: the former is tied on the standing end of a line, while the latter is bent around the horns of a cleat. As you practice tying these seven essential knots, you will immediately recognize the look and shape of the knot when made correctly, and more important, will recognize when you have tied it incorrectly. Take one full turn around the base of the cleat, leading the line so that its standing part runs clear of the cleat.

Then take a figure-eight turn around first one horn of the cleat, then the other. On the final turn pass the line under itself and pull it tight. Want to learn more about knot tying? Check out The Pocket-Sized Guide , The Above and Beyond Guide , and The See-it-to-Learn-it Guide: For those who prefer visual learning, Fair Wind Sailing School’s “Knots So Fast” video series may be your ticket to knot-tying success. In 2-3 minute videos, Capt. Dave Bello provides in-depth lessons on tying what he calls “the nine most critical knots in sailing”: the cleat hitch, reef knot, sheet bend, clove hitch, round turn & two half hitches, figure 8, rolling hitch, bowline and truckers hitch. The first 2-minute video is free and discusses knotting terminology. The second video, “The Figure Eight Knot” is also free. After that, videos can be purchased for $2.95 apiece, or $12.95 for all 10. All videos are shot in high def with dual-angle filming, meaning the viewer sees the knot from two perspectives: overhead and straight on.

Once purchased, the videos are yours to watch and re-watch until you’re satisfied. Knots so Fast Videos by Fair Wind Sailing School $2.95 for one; $12.95 for ten Illustrations by Dick Everitt

Question: The main purpose of a bowline knot is to produce a?
Answer: Loop