Patrick Chaplin: Explains where name The Oche come from The Oche WHERE DOES THE WORD OCHE ORIGINATE? This is one question that I am asked time and time again and one for which I can only offer a theory. 'Oche' as a word meaning the throwing line that a dart player stands behind to throw his or her darts is comparatively recent, being introduced by the British Darts Organisation in the mid-1970s. The actual word is believed to be derived from Old Flemish meaning a ‘notch’ or ‘nick’. However, when the game of darts was first standardised in the 1920s, the word used in tournament rules was actually ‘hockey’. This word was used by the News of the World for their individual darts competitions from the late 1920s onwards. The word ‘hockey’ had previously been used to mean ‘a line from which you throw’ in the game of Aunt Sally a skittles-type game played mainly in Gloucestershire and parts of the southern counties. Whether or not the original word was ‘oche’ and was misheard and turned into ‘hockey’ is pure speculation.

The derivation of the word ‘oche’ is obscure but my best guess is that it derives from the word 'hocken' an old English word, utilised more in the North of the country than anywhere else and meaning 'to spit.' Given that darts was originally played in the public bar or vault of the English public house where the floor was often covered in sawdust and the room liberally furnished with spittoons, my theory is that the ‘hockey’ line was determined by the length that a given player could spit from a position with his back to the dartboard. As far as I know no one else has tried to solve this mystery and even the Oxford English Dictionary cannot help! Anyone who has any alternative theory is invited to drop me a line. However, BEFORE YOU DO THAT, please do not tell me that the word has its origins in a brewer in the West Country of England called ‘Hockey and Sons.’ I know that’s what many darts websites declare as fact but it is completely and utterly untrue. The ‘Hockey and Sons’ theory runs like this: The original regulation throwing distance for darts – nine feet – was first established in a pub served or owned by the brewers S.

Hockey & Sons, a company well known in Dorset, Devon and Cornwall which used to deliver their bottled beer in wooden crates exactly 3ft (0.91m) long. After darts became popular in West Country pubs at the turn of the twentieth century, in about 1908, several pubs in Portsmouth decided to place three ‘Hockey’ beer crates end to end to determine exactly a nine feet (three crates x 3 feet) throw line. After a few months the brewers’ name had been adopted by all the players and from that time the throw line became known as the ‘hockey’. This theory was first published in 1981 when, even then, it was described as ‘an entertaining explanation of the derivation of the word ‘hockey’’. Despite this warning about the credibility of the claim, the Hockey & Sons theory spread like wildfire and eventually became historical ‘fact’. Even though it is complete and utter fiction, the theory has been featured in numerous darts books and darts websites and become part of darts’ folklore. Let us be absolutely clear. There has never ever been a brewer anywhere in Britain called ‘S. Hockey & Sons’.

This was confirmed in the early 1990s by those who know about such things at the Brewery History Society - – a society of which I am proud to be a member. Darts did not reach the West Country until much later than 1908. Folks in Dorset, Devon and Cornwall played skittles, not darts, and it was not until the 1970s that darts proved popular but, even then, skittles ruled – and still does to a great extent today. The ‘Hockey & Sons’ theory is pure invention. It is a complete fabrication – and I know who fabricated it! Apart from that load of old drivel I am prepared to listen to any other theories, provided they can be backed up by evidence. Please let me have your ideas via my Contacts page.

Original article posted September 2002, revised article posted October 2007, second revision December 2009; all text ©2009 Patrick Chaplin Sub Navigation Winmau - The Force Behind Darts Glossary Dartboard Maintenance Winmau dartboards are manufactured from the world's finest premium grade Kenyan sisal by our uniquely skilled technicians, so you can rest assured that our boards are best-in-class for longevity and scoring potential. However, darts is an impact game and to get the best out of our products we advise you follow these simple guidelines with regard to dartboard care. One of the most common questions we get asked is: How long does a dartboard last? This is an almost impossible question to answer without knowing the exact setup a player is using, the mechanics of their throw and how often the board is used. There are so many factors that can influence the life of a board (including weight of darts, type of throw, type of points, etc.), but if you follow our simple steps below you will get the maximum durability, scoring potential and enjoyment from your Winmau dartboard!

Turn the Dartboard Regularly At regular intervals, we recommend that you remove the number ring from your dartboard and turn the dartboard by a few segments. Turning the dartboard regularly will spread the wear to give the longest life for your dartboard. It is important to note that the wear on the 25 and bullseye area cannot be protected by rotating the dartboard, so games such as Cricket that rely on this part of the board may result in the centre of the board being worn out first. Winmau dartboards are continually tested during every stage of manufacture, and have been developed to perform in the widest range of scenarios (including the widest range of temperature, humidity and climate environments possible). However, we recommend you position/store your dartboard in a cool, dry place wherever possible. Do Not Soak the Dartboard It is a common misconception dating back to the days of pre-bristle dartboards that soaking or spraying a dartboard with water (or other liquids) will increase its life. No liquids should ever come into contact with the surface of a bristle dartboard, as this could damage the board and decrease its lifespan.

Keep Good Points to Your Darts Blunt, hooked or engineered dart points (knurled, ringed, etc.) can cause early dartboard wear. Dart point design has changed dramatically over the last few years and there are a plethora of options on the market with different mechanical grips and patterns (please click here for the Winmau range). This evolution has developed for two reasons: Grip in the hand for players who's finger touch the point. Grip when the dart enters the dartboard as a means of holding the dart more firmly in the board to prevent lost darts. Whilst you can feel the extra grip of the point in the dartboard, players should be aware that these new mechanical points will wear the dartboard quicker than standard smooth points. Blunt and engineered dart points will damage your dartboard quickly as they can cause over-compaction and also prevent the bristles from "healing" once the dart has been removed. Twisting the dart as it is being removed from the board can help with this. In addition, the round surface area of blunt dart points pushes the sisal back into the board in such a way that it can't recover, leaving holes in your dartboard.

Hooked and engineered dart points can pull fibres out of the dartboard which not only looks unsightly but, over time, will reduce the surface density and impact the performance of the board. Sharp, smooth dart points that are not blunt or hooked are the best option to maximise the life of your dartboard. However, points should not be excessively sharp. Excessively sharp points can dig in to wires, causing a bounce out, rather than deflect into the fibre and score. How to get Sharp, Smooth Dart Points Use a dart point sharpener (please click here for the Winmau range) and change your dart points regularly. Both options are available at all good darts retailers, or please email us on info@winmau.com for your nearest stockist. Excessive Weight on the Fixings The centre screw on the back of our dartboards is designed to comfortably take the weight of a dartboard and a traditional surround, but other, heavier items (such as some lighting systems) may add excessive weight to the board and cause the board to fall from the wall potentially causing injury. For any setup including a non-traditional surround, we recommend using the Winmau Deluxe Dartboard Clamp .

Dartboard Setup Anatomy of a Dart All darts have a point, a barrel, a shaft and a flight. The barrel is the main body of a dart and is manufactured in a wide range of shapes, sizes and materials. Shafts and flights are replaceable accessories which together provide aerodynamic stability. Both shafts and flights will wear out over time, depending on the amount of play, but replacements are widely available and come in a variety of shapes, sizes and materials. How to Play Many different dart games can be played, but by far the most important and popular are 301, 501 and Cricket. In both 301 and 501, the basic principle is the subtraction of your score from the initial score of either 301 or 501 points, the winner being the first to reduce their score to exactly zero. Basic rules and techniques: Each player has a turn consisting of three darts. The player stands behind the throw line. A throw is 3 darts. A 'bounce out' does not score. Stay relaxed and balanced. Glossary Barrel Barrels are commonly available in a range of weights from 14 to 40g.

Material, weight and style are barrel variables that impact your ability to consistently repeat your trajectories. BDO Is the abbreviation for British Darts Organisation. Winmau dartboards are endorsed by the British Darts Organisation. Bed A bed is the section of a number shown on the face of the dartboard. 'Three in a bed' denotes that all three darts are in the same bed. Bounce-Out When a dart hits the wire of a board or another dart and bounces out of the board. The Winmau Blade 4 achieves less than 0.1% bounce-outs. A bounce-out does not score in a steeltip game. Brass Economical and perfect for the beginner. However, they tend to be thicker in diameter. Dart A dart is a small pointed missile, thrown in the game of darts. The dart should fly in a smooth arc. Various players have different throwing styles and it is sometimes necessary to change the length of the shaft to find the correct aerodynamic path. Dartboard A dartboard is a circular board marked with numbered segments, used as a target in the game of darts.

Dartboards, or bristle dartboards, are hung on the wall so that the centre of the bullseye is exactly 5'8" (172.72cm) from the floor. Bristle dartboards can be used for either steeltip or softip play. Dartboard Setup The double 20 on the dartboard. Flight Flights are the 'feathers' of the dart and make the dart more aerodynamic. Flight Shapes Flights are available in various shapes and sizes. Smaller flights give less air resistance. Standard flights are typucally used for all weights of steeltip darts. Slim flights are most often used on softip darts. The lighter the dart, the smaller the flight needed to stabilise it when thrown. Game-On A call for silence at the start of the game. Leg A game in a match (typically 501) as 'the best of five legs', in which each leg is an entire game. Nickel-Silver Nickel-silver is a German silver that is similar to brass but slightly heavier, harder and stronger. It is also more costly than brass. Oche Oche is the line behind which the players stand when throwing.

The throwing line, or oche, is 8' (243.84cm) for softip and 7'9ï¿½" (236.85cm) for steeltip. Shaft The shaft is the portion of the dart that holds the flight. Sisal Sisal comes from a Mexican plant, Agave Sisalana, with large fleshy leaves. The fibre made from this plant is used for cordage, ropes, dartboards, etc. Winmau dartboards are manufactured from premium grade East African sisal, which improves the lifespan of the product. Winmau converts the sisal into a super-dense form, which gives the board its quality build. Softip Softip is the plastic point of a dart that is designed to slip into one of several hundred holes moulded into the face of the plastic board. Softip darts can also be used on a bristle dartboard. Staple-Free A staple free bullseye requires no fixings to hold it in place. Winmau's bulleye is specifically engineered to soften the bullseye area for longer life and to minimise bounce-outs.

Tungsten Tungsten darts are twice as heavy as brass or nickel-silver. They provide greater stability and tighter grouping. The best dart barrels are made out of high quality tungsten. Tungsten has a higher density than brass or nickel-silver, which gives the dart weight without bulk. Tungsten darts are made up of a mixture of tungsten and nickel-silver. The higher the percentage of tungsten, the slimmer the dart will be, resulting in increased high scoring chances. Darts | Dart Games | Dart Rules Glossary Of Dart Terms & Phrases ANNIE'S ROOM: The number 1. ARROWS: Darts. BABY TON: A score of 95, usually by scoring five 19's. BAG O' NUTS:A score of 45. BARREL: The part of a dart you grip, right behind the point. BASEMENT: The double-3. BREAKFAST: A score of single-5, single-20, single-1 in a game of x01. This was based on the typical price of a bed-and-breakfast, 26 pence.

BUCKET OF NAILS: Landing all three darts in the 1's. BUCKSHOT: When you're darts land wildly all over the board. BULL: The center of the board. BULLSEYE: The center of the board. BUST: Hitting more than you needed in an x01 game, and the darts don't count. C: In a Cricket game this refers to high scores base on the number of darts scored. For example a triple-20, single-20, single-20 would be called a C-5 because "5 darts" were scored with three darts. CHUCKER: A player who just "chucks" the darts at the board, doesn't aim or care. CIRCLE IT: When a player scores a single digit (less than 10) with three darts, his team-mates would shout out "Circle it!" to the scorekeeper to highlight the terrible throw. CLOCK: The dart board. CORK: The center of the board. This comes from the cork in the end of a keg where it is tapped. The ends of kegs were used for targets in the begining of darts.

DIDDLE FOR MIDDLE: A throw to see who gets one dart closer to the bullseye to determine who shoots first in the game. DOUBLE: The thin outer ring of the board, it usually counts for two times the number hit. DOUBLE IN: A double is needed to start the game. DOUBLE OUT: A double is needed to win the game. DOUBLE TOP: The double-20. DOUBLE TROUBLE: Not being able to hit the double needed to win the game. DOWNSTAIRS: The lower portion of the board, usually in refernce to the 19's in a game of x01. EASY IN: A game that requires no special shot to begin scoring. FEATHERS: The "wings" at the end of a dart that make it fly straight. Also known as flights. FEATHERS: The number 33. FLIGHTS: The "wings" at the end of a dart that make it fly straith. Also known as feathers. HAT TRICK: A score of three bullseyes. HOCKEY: The line you you stand behind and throw the darts from.

ISLAND: The actual playable area of a dart board (inside the doubles ring). If you miss, your "Off the island". LEG: One game of a match. MAD HOUSE: The double-one, because it can drive you crazy trying to hit one in a game of x01. MIDDLE FOR MIDDLE: A throw to see who gets one dart closer to the bullseye to determine who shoots first in the game. MONGER: A person who deliberately scores many more points than needed to win the game. MUGS AWAY: Loser of the previous game goes first in the next game. MURPHY: A score of single-5, single-20, single-1 in a game of x01. Based on Murphy's Law. OCHE: The line you you stand behind and throw the darts from. POINT MONGER: A person who deliberately scores many more points than needed to win the game. POPCORN: When the darts land so close to each other, they knock their flights out. RIGHT CHURCH, WRONG PEW or RIGHT HOUSE, WRONG BED: When you a double or triple, but the wrong number.

ROBIN HOOD: When you shoot a dart into the shaft of another. SHAFT: The part of a dart behind the barrel when the flights are mounted. SHANGHAI: A score of a single, double and triple in the same number. In some games this is an automatic win. This is also the name of a game. SHUT OUT: When you lose a game without ever scoring in it. SKUNKED: When you lose a game without ever scoring in it. SLOP: Darts that score, but not where you wanted them. SPIDER: The metal web that divede the dart board. SPLASH: Darts that score, but not where you wanted them. STRAIGHT IN: A game that requires no special shot to begin scoring. THREE IN A BED: Three darts in the same number. THROW LINE: The line you you stand behind and throw the darts from. TOE LINE: The line you you stand behind and throw the darts from. TON: A score of 100 in a game of x01.

Scores over 100 would be called a "ton-whatever" for example, a ton-thirty would be a score of 130. triple: The thin inner ring of the board, it usually counts for three times the number hit. UPSTAIRS: The upper portion of the board, usually in reference to the 20's. WIRE: Darts that just miss where you aimed but on the other side of the spider. X: A double-1 out. Darts | Dartboard | Dartboards | Dart Flights Dart Flights Darts Glossary Choose A Letter: ANNIE'S ROOM - The number One (1). ARROWS - Another term for darts . ARCHER - Refers to a player who throws very quick smooth darts -B- BABY TON - A score of 95, usually by scoring five 19s. BAG O' NUTS - A score of 45. BARREL - The metal body of the darts where they are gripped. BASEMENT - The double-3. BOTTOM OF THE BOARD - The numbers on the bottom half of the dartboard .

BOUNCE OUT - When a dart hits a wire on the board flush-on and bounces back off the dartboard . Can be potentially dangerous to spectators who are too close. BREAKFAST - (or BED 'N' BREAKFAST) A score of 26, made up of a single-5, single-20, single-1 in a game of x01. This is a common score in darts because players aiming for the 20 sector (which contains the highest scoring area on the dartboard ) will often accidentally hit the 1 and the 5 sectors, which are located on either side of the 20. The term comes from the typical price of a bed-and-breakfast in times gone by: 2 shillings and sixpence, or "two and six". (See also "CHIPS") BUCKET/BAG OF NAILS - Landing all three darts in the 1s. BUCKSHOT - A throw when darts land wildly all over the dartboard . BULL-OFF - See DIDDLE FOR THE MIDDLE. BULLSEYE (or BULL) - The bull's eye, which has an Outer Bull and an Inner Bull.

BUST - Hitting more than you needed in an x01 game. The darts do not count and the player begins his next turn on the same score he had prior to. -C- CRICKET - In a Cricket game this refers to high scores base on the number of darts scored. For example a triple-20, single-20, single-20 would be called a C-5 because "5 darts " were scored with three darts . CHAMPAGNE BREAKFAST - Hitting treble 20, treble 1 and treble 5 in three darts (see "BREAKFAST") CHIPS - A score of 26. (See also: "BREAKFAST") CHUCKER - A player who just "chucks" the darts at the board, doesn't aim or care. CIRCLE IT - When a player scores a single digit (less than 10) with three darts , his team-mates would shout out "Circle it!" to the scorekeeper to highlight the terrible throw. A variation on this tradition is to draw a fish around the score, often leading to aquarium-related jokes being aimed at particularly poor or unlucky players.

CLOCK - The dartboard itself, usually in the context of "ROUND THE CLOCK". CORK - The center of the dartboard . This comes from the cork in the end of a keg where it is tapped. The ends of kegs were used for targets in the game's early days. COVER - A term frequently used by Sid Wadell, meaning aiming for treble 19. -D- DAIRYLEA DARTS - A throw that is 'spread' around the board, named after the cheese spread Dairylea. DEVIL - The treble-6, so called due to '666', and the fact that it is often hit in error when going for treble-13 or treble-10. DIDDLE FOR THE MIDDLE - A throw to see who gets one dart closer to the bullseye to determine who throws first in the game. Also known as a "BULL OFF", "MIDDLE FOR MIDDLE" and "OUT FOR BULL". DOUBLE - The thin outer ring of the dartboard . In standard x01 games, a double counts for two times the number hit.

DOUBLE-BULL - On dartboards configured with a bullseye consisting of two concentric circles, the outer circle is commonly green and worth 25 and the inner circle is commonly red and worth 50 points. Hitting the innermost ring of this type of bullseye is a "DOUBLE-BULL". (See also: "BULLSEYE") DOUBLE IN - A variant of x01 in which a double is needed to start the game. DOUBLE TOP - The double 20. DOUBLE TROUBLE - Not being able to hit the double needed to win the game. DOWNSTAIRS - The lower portion of the dartboard , usually in reference to the 19s in a game of x01. -E- EASY IN - A game that requires no special shot to begin scoring. EDDIE SHUFFLE - The art of adjusting ones stance or position along the ockey in an attempt to circumnavigate a troublesome 'blocking' dart. Also referred to as The Milk Float. -F- FOGLE - A series of castaway darts thrown with no other purpose than to irritate opponents. FLIGHTS - The "feathers" of the dart that give it aerodynamic float.

Also known as wings. -G- GAME ON - Advises all players that the match has now started GAME SHOT - Signifies that the match winning double has been hit GRANNY - A lose without scoring, see SHUT OUT -H- HAT TRICK - A score of three bullseyes. HIGH TON - A score greater than 150. HOCKEY - A raised 1 1/2" board used to mark the throwing line. -I- INNING - A round of completed turns by both players, or a turn in a particular game that has innings, like Baseball or Shanghai. -L- LEG - A game in a match, as in "the best of five legs", in which each leg is an entire game. Or, in the game of Legs, a stripe on the dart board . -M- MAD HOUSE - The double-1. At least two explanations for the term have been proffered; because it can drive you crazy trying to hit one in a game of x01, or because it impossible to "get out" of the mad house - once a player has a score of 2 the only way to finish the game is by hitting a double-1.

MAXIMUM - A score of 180 MAXIMUM CHECK-OUT - A score of 170 to end a game. treble-20, treble-20, inner bull MUGS AWAY - Loser of the previous game goes first in the next game. MURPHY - A score of single-5, single-20, single-1 in a game of x01. Based on Murphy's Law. -N- NAIL - Another word for 1. See "Bucket of Nails" and "Ton of Nails". NINE DARTER - When a player completes a game of 501 in the minimum required nine- darts . This is a very rare event. There is usually a cash prize for professionals throwing a televised nine-darter. NOT OLD - A score of 37 (usually by hitting a 20, a 5 and a 12). The phrase is believed to have its origins in a Monty Python sketch. -O- OCHE - The line you stand behind and throw the darts from. -P- PERFECT SCORE - When a player scores a maximum 180 points in one throw of three darts .

PERFECT FINISH - When a player finishes a game with a maximum score of 170. This must be done by scoring treble 20, treble 20, double bull, with only three darts . This is considerably more difficult than hitting a perfect score as the player must break focus to change targets and it can only be done if the player has an exact score of 170 remaining. PIE - any of the numbered segments on the dartboard . POPCORN - When the darts land so close to each other, they knock their flights out. -R- REDEEMER - A dart , (often a T20) that "redeems" two previous poor efforts. RIGHT CHURCH - Term for hitting a double or triple, but the wrong number. Also known as "DADDY'S BED" ROBIN HOOD - When you shoot a dart into the shaft of another. ROUND OF NINE - Throwing three triples in one turn in Cricket. ROUND THE CLOCK - Any of a number of game variants where players compete to be the first to hit all the sectors on the dartboard in an agreed order (usually numerical), finishing with the outer bull followed by the bull.

In some versions hitting a double entitles the player to skip the next number, with a treble entitling the player to skip two numbers. Also commonly played by single players as a form of practice. -S- SCROAT - A dart that is aimed for treble 20, but ends up in double 20. SET - A scoring method used in many tournaments. SHAFT - The middle section of the darts that holds the Flight . SHANGHAI - A score of a single, double and triple in the same number. "Shanghai" sometimes refers to a checkout of 120 (single, treble and double 20, also as "Shanghai 20"). In some games this is an automatic win. This is also the name of a game. SHARKEY - A non-registered player who has to assume a false identity in order to fill in for an absent player in a league game, e.g. "due to poor turnout, The Arms had to use a Sharkey". SHUT OUT - When you lose a game without ever scoring in it.

SINGLE BULL - On dartboards configured with a bullseye consisting of two concentric circles, the outer circle is commonly green and worth 25 and the inner circle is commonly red and worth 50 points. Hitting the outermost ring of this type of bullseye is a "SINGLE-BULL". (See also: "BULLSEYE") SKUNKED - When you lose a game without ever scoring in it. SLOP - Darts that score, but not where you wanted them. SPIDER - The metal web that divides the dartboard into sections. SPLASH - Darts that score, but not where you wanted them. SPRAY 'N' PRAY - Darts thrown by an irate and less talented player, rather quickly STICKS - The darts themselves. STRAIGHT IN - A game that requires no special shot to begin scoring. STRIKING OIL - Hitting a double bull when 'diddling for the middle' - comes from the black centre of some modern dart boards . -T- THREE IN A BED - Three darts in the same triple of a number. i.e. three triple 20's 180!

THROW LINE - The line you stand behind and throw the darts from. TOE LINE - The line you stand behind and throw the darts from. TON - A score of 100 in a game of x01. Scores over 100 would be called a "ton-whatever" for example, a ton-thirty would be a score of 130. TON OF NAILS - A score of 5 where all three darts fell in the 1 bed with 1 dart in the treble 1. TOP BANANA - Double 20. Usually exclaimed after hitting this bed to win a match. TOP OF THE BOARD - The numbers on the top half of the dartboard . TOPS - The double 20 bed. As in "he wants tops for the match". TRIPLE/TREBLE - The thin inner ring of the dartboard , it usually counts for three times the number hit.

-U- UPSTAIRS - The upper half of the dartboard -W- Darts 501 - Darts History Share / Home / Resource / Darts History The sport or game of darts is unique in several ways: the equipment required to play is reasonably inexpensive, a relatively small amount of space is required to play and special clothing is not required. Age, gender, size and physical strength or endurance have almost no effect on a player's ability to do well. These factors combine to make darts one of the appealing and popular games today. The game of darts is hundreds of years old rumour has it that the sport originally began as a contest between bored soldiers / archers during respites from battle. The soldiers threw short throwing spears into the upturned ends of wine barrels. As their competition progressed, a more critically marked target became necessary, which led to the use of a slice of a tree as a target. The natural rings of the tree proved perfect for scoring purposes, as did the radial cracks which appeared as the wood dried out. The winter forced the game indoors, and shorter darts and basic indoor rules were adopted.

In 1530 Anne Boleyn gave Henry VIII a set of "darts of Biscayan fashion, richly ornamented," these were not darts as we know them today but more of a small throwing spear. Even our Pilgrim fathers are said to have had darts on the Mayflower (1620) and although their main use was for a weapon it is conservable they may have used the butt of a wine cask as a "board" for target practise. However Queen Elizabeth I throw the odd dart as seen here below Queen Elizabeth I throwing darts in Slough, England Pub Darts Match circa 1937 The dart itself became more or less standardised as the practice of throwing "missiles" at targets became a general pastime -- the barrel was typically a piece of wood about 4 inches long with a metal point stuck in one end and feathers on the other. An American patented a folded-paper flight in 1898, and the all-metal barrel was patented by an Englishman in 1906. The Dartboard Numbering System.

The number system on the board is often credited to Brian Gamlin, a carpenter from Bury, Lancashire, who is said to have invented it at the age of 44 in 1896 but he died in 1903 without patenting it. But after extensive research viewing the English and Wales Census and contacting Bury News papers and archives no trace of Brian existence can be found. This is not to say he didn't exist, as some reports say that Brian was also attached to a travelling circus and may have missed the census at the time... According to another source, Thomas William Buckle invented the dartboard in 1913. The source in question is his son, Thomas Edward Buckle who 1992 made this statement in Darts World (issue 234). Pictures: (Left) Man at the fair "21 or under wins a prize! Outside the board or fallen darts count 18!" (Right) Thomas William Buckle The Hockey / Oche Where does the word Oche come from?

'Oche' as a word meaning the throwing line which a dart player stands behind to throw his or her darts is comparatively recent, being introduced by the British Darts Organisation in the mid-1970s. The actual word is believed to be derived from Old Flemish (or similar) meaning a notch or nick but let the truth be known. The truth is since the 1920s, the word was ‘Hockey’ and not ‘Oche’ was used in competition rules. It is believed a writer miss herd the name and recorded it as 'Oche'. References to 'Hockey and Son' Brewery and the throwing distance being created by putting beer creates end to end has always been a nice theory but it is totally untrue. No such Brewery every existed in the UK hence to say this myth as been around for years. Why is the Oche 7’ 9 ¼ " / 2.73m? Over the years many myths have repeated as regards how the Hockey / Oche length came to be but why 7’ 9 ¼ “ / 2.73m it is rather a weird length isn’t it! Why not 7’10” or 2.8m?

It basically comes down to trying to standardise the Oche length across the Country and in Europe. In the UK several setups where commonly used however two of the most prominent were 7’6” and 8’, The News of the World Championships was played at 8’ so why the change? Before and after the 1939-45 war a 9ft throw was popular Hockey (Oche) length. However that was to change. From 9ft, the throwing distance gradually crept nearer the board until 7ft 6in was the rule for most major competitions in UK with exception of the News of The World Completion that remained at 8ft. Players from outside the UK were not happy with the 7ft 6in because they felt it was too short and during a meeting with in December 1977 with the World Darts Federation a compromise was met. The Federation worked in meters not imperial measurement used in the UK for dartboard set-up; 7ft 6in is 2.28 meters, and 8ft is 2.44 meters.

To make an agreed length a compromise was made halfway between the two, but wait a minute, halfway between the two is 7’9” so where does the extra ¼” come from? 7’ 9” didn’t equate nicely into metric so the addition of ¼” made the distance fit nicely at 2.37m hence the standard Oche length of today. The sport was nearly banned in the public houses of Great Britain! In 1908 a decision was made by the Magistrates in Leeds, England which effectively ensured the eventual popularity of darts as a sport. At that time, "games of chance" were illegal in public houses (pubs). A pub owner called "Foot" Annakin was accused of operating a game of chance and prosecuted for allowing darts at his establishment. Foot argued that darts was not a game of chance, and obtained permission for a board to be set up in the courtroom. It is said that Anakin threw three darts in the 20 and invited any magistrate to do the same. The challenge was accepted, however the court officials were unable to duplicate Foot's shot, thus proving darts was indeed a game of skill and not of chance; the case was dismissed.

The years afterward saw the progression of the game in British public houses; by World War II the majority of pubs had dartboards, and teams and matches with other pubs were arranged on a regular basis. Further research by Dr Patrick Chaplin reveals that Annakin wasn't a publican at all he worked in a forge. Annakin was in fact the best darts and dominoes player in the Adelphi Inn. When the landlord of the Adelphi, Jim Garside, was summoned to Leeds Magistrates’ Court to answer the charge of allowing a game of chance to be played on his premises, he asked Annakin to come along and demonstrate darts was a game of skill. The first major step towards making darts the international game it is today occurred when The News of the World, a British Sunday newspaper, instituted its championship in 1927. Originally confined to the London area, the event nevertheless drew large numbers of participants, and due to its success became a national competition after World War I. This event grew into one of the most prestigious and sought-after international titles in the sport, but was suspended in 1990. It returned in 1997, but is now restricted to players in the UK.

(This event sadly is no longer being played) Major credit for promotion of the game goes to The News of the World and also to the National Darts Association of Great Britain (NDA), formed in 1954, for their contributions in creating both an international forum for the sport, and establishing basic acceptable rules of play. The NDA drew together various Counties and London groupings, and began holding English national competitions in 1957. The British Darts Organisation The British Darts Organisation (BDO) was formed in 1973 by Olly Croft, he helped to coordinate the strengths of the various County associations and the development of various County championships, with the organisation of international events following soon after. The BDO's primary focus at that time was acquiring sponsors and running special events for television. In 1978 the BDO organised the Embassy World Professional Championships, one of the biggest events in darts. In 1976 the BDO was a major force in setting up the World Darts Federation (WDF), which was formed by representatives from 15 Countries to govern and promote the sport of darts on an international basis.

Among the first decisions of the WDF were the recommendation of a standard throwing distance for all countries, and the inauguration of the World Cup, an international event held every two years since 1977 in which top players compete for their respective countries. Today the WDF is comprised of the national darts organising body from each of 49 member countries, representing six continents. The 1970's and 1980's witnessed the first darts 'stars' such as Eric Bristow, John Lowe, Alan Evans, Jocky Wilson, Leighton Rees, Cliff Lazarenko, to name just a few. All became household names during this period. Four Past World Champions left to right Leighton Ress, John Lowe, Eric Bristow MBE & Jocky Wilson In 1992 saw a great split between the BDO and a number of professional players. The game had lost some sponsors and had declined from the TV screens leaving the Embassy World Championship as the only televised event. The professionals felt that not enough was being done to encourage more sponsors into their sport and TV courage should be greater than one event a year.

A group of professionals including Eric Bristow MBE, John Lowe, Phil Taylor, Dennis Priestley and many more formed a new darts organisation known as the World Darts Council (WDC) and the following few years saw any member of this new organisation excluded from BDO events. A legal battle between WDC and the BDO was also on the way. This bitter dispute over the rights to darts organisation fell in favour of the WDC but one of the words ‘World’ had to be dropped. The organisation as we know it today is the Professional Darts Corporation (PDC) The PDC have now introduced some key, high profile competitions including the World Matchplay, Grand Prix and the PDC World Championship. The British Darts Organisation (BDO) continues to support youth and County darts and organises major championships including the Winmau World Masters and the Lakeside World Championships (formerly the Embassy World Professional Darts Championship.) The rise of the 'Power' Phil Taylor To make a history page and still be at the top of your game is some achievement by anyone's standard. But by far the one darter that has dominated the sport for the past decade and a half is Phil 'The Power' Taylor.

Phil has won the PDC World Championships no less than fourteen times and before that the BDO / WDF World Championship twice making him the sixteen times World Darts Champion. (January 2013) During this time darts promoter and chairman of the PDC Barry Hearn arranged a head to head encounters with the then current BDO / WDF World champion, Phil has always won these encounters, proving beyond doubt he is the greatest darts player the World has even seen in the modern sport of darts. Is Darts a Sport or a Game? On The 24th March 2005 Sport England took the lead in officially recognising darts as a sporting activity. The decision was approved at a recent Sport England Main Board meeting and paves the way for further recognition from other sports councils in Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland. In taking the initiative to acknowledge darts as a legitimate sporting activity, Sport England took into account its status as a national and international sport, its high and growing levels of participation and the physical and mental skills and dexterity needed to compete successfully.

Sport England Chief Executive, Roger Draper, said that the Board decision looked beyond the stereotypical image of darts and took into account its many positive sporting and social values: “The presentation of darts as a pub game has helped popularise its cult appeal, but the reality is that it is a sport played by many thousands of people across the county in locations ranging from schools to village halls, social clubs and sports centres". "By taking the lead in recognising the skills and social and community values associated with darts, we hope others will follow suit in the near future to complete its formal and official recognition as a sport,” he added. Full sporting recognition will allow darts authorities to take advantage of tax incentives afforded to recognised sports by the Government. There are currently no plans for Sport England to fund darts, as in February this year (2005) the four-year funding strategy was confirmed for the national governing bodies of sport. Initially recognised by Sport England, on the 3rd June 2005 Sport Wales, Sport Northern Ireland and Sport Scotland have now added their unanimous agreement that darts is to be recognised as a sport.

UK Honours Officer of the Order of the British Empire (OBE) Olly Croft Olly Croft the founder of the British Darts Organisation in 1973 was awarded the OBE (Officer of the Order of the British Empire) for service to darts in 2004. Olly was the director of the British Darts Organisation from 1973 – 2011 when he was voted off the board. His name however will always associated with the modern game of darts in an era that shone with TV dart stars such as Eric Bristow MBE, John Lowe, Leighton Ress, Jocky Wilson, Bobby George and many others Darts 501 - How to Throw Darts / Stance Share / Home / Improve your game / Improve your strance The beginners guide to throwing darts. Although the title states the beginners guide, regular players may also find some of the detail useful. You may find just a minor tweak or two will improve your game.

I have thrown darts coming on nearly forty years and during this time I have had periods in my life when the darts have gone in the draw for a few years either due to work commitments or location moves. When you pick up the darts again you need to relearn! Following on from a coaching course at work I found myself analysing my dart throw and the dart throw from the professionals. Giving myself regular feedback and changing parts of my throw I managed to improve my throw and throw consistency. To put this to a further test I stopped playing recently for nearly four months and used the techniques I am sharing with you to regain a level of competency. By this I mean I was back to scoring regular one eighties. However like any dart player will tell you in order to be consistently good you need to put the work in and Practise, Practise, Practise. So let’s move on and start explaining: If you treat darts seriously then you will find it is like most sports. It requires dedication and practise in order to achieve a high level of competency. However most of us still treat this sport as a social game, just to be enjoyed over a social drink in a bar or club.

There are also others that want to gain a competent level and play in competition and social league teams. Over the years I have played in both. If you are just starting or you are looking to improve your game then you will find a number of practise games on this site that will help you do just that. But first let’s look at some basics. The player’s stance, the grip, the aim, the throw and the follow through! If you have played a racket sport then you may have been shown how to hold a racket, shown how to follow through with your swing once the racket has made contact with the ball. Never take your eye of the ball springs to mind when I was learning how to play squash and lots of techniques from stance, breathing, adjusting sights when I was learning to shoot in the army. Boxing or martial arts competitors have a strong stance to deliver effective consistent blows. The one thing in common is there are some basic techniques and with practise and dedication these will improve your sport. The stance. Variations of stances have been adopted over the years (see below). However the one we will be concentrating on is the throwing arms foot forward.

This is to say if you are right handed and you intend to throw with you right hand, then you place your right foot forward to the oche line. Early throwers would adopt a stance as shown in diagram No.1. Booth feet forward touching the oche line. It seemed to be frowned upon to lean forward or move along the oche line as we see regularly today. You may still see one or two social players using this form of stance but it doesn't help keep the upper body stable therefore very few people use it. Best foot forward this is sometimes referred too. The lead foot here the right, would indicate a right handed thrower. This is a much better stance and gives more stability to the upper body. The last diagram show the lead foot adjacent to the oche line. This requires you to view the board side on twisting your body slightly. Some players find this a little uncomfortable however it reduces the unwanted movement in the upper body. Top players will mainly use stances based upon diagram No2 & 3. You should line your foot up so that you are central to the dartboard. Movement to either side can be adopted but for beginners this is best practise and most professional keep to this technique.

The left foot is situated behind the right. Lean forward slightly placing the bulk of your weight on your lead right foot and adjust you stance slightly (if needed) so that you are comfortable with the position. Your stance should be strong and stable. You should feel comfortable in this position, but at first this will appear alien to you if you have never played before. The stance will be slightly adjusted during the course of the game i.e. when lining up to hit a double either side of the board or lower board trebles. As the stance acts a bit like a rudder of a boat with the front foot as the pivot and the back moving to the left or to the right naturally changes the angle you face the board. Also bringing your back foot closer to the front foot or further away adjusts your height. Do this with a pair of dividers to see this clearly. Minor adjustments in the stance positions will line the dart throw up correctly. It helps to be conscious of these movements as this will help you later when you need to give self feedback. How can the stance help my throw? Before I move on to holding darts, aiming and the throw itself.

Many viewers ask “how can I improve my throw?” Well it boils down to analysing all aspects of the throw but one thing that tends to get over looked is the stance. It is important to get this correct. A couple of examples: Q. I hit a lot of fives when throwing for twenties how can I stop this? A. If right handed try moving your back foot more to the left as this will adjust your throwing angle pulling your body to the right and align you correctly towards the twenty segment. The reverse is true if you are hitting lots of ones! Q. I sometimes throw low darts i.e. just under the treble twenty, how do I adjust my throw? A. A few answers here from the throw to weight of darts however bringing your rear foot closer to your front foot naturally increases your height. By not adjusting anything else with your throw you will now throw higher and your darts should land in the desired scoring area.

World Wide Words: Oche Oche Pronounced /ˈɒki/ The classic pub game, darts is the ultimate non-sportsman’s sport — you don’t need any special clothing and little equipment (a set of darts is a good idea, but pubs lend those out), and you don’t need to be fit (the aptitude of players often appears to be in direct proportion to the size of their beer guts). All you have to remember is to count back from 501, end on a double, and avoid putting your toes over the oche. Oche, for the line behind which darts players stand when throwing, is the classic bit of darts jargon, even more obscure and basic than double top for a double twenty, bag o’ nuts for a score of 45 (don’t ask where it comes from because I don’t know), Shanghai for a score made up of a single, treble and double in that order of the same number, usually 20 when you need 120 to end a game (ditto), mugs away as an invitation to the losing player to start the next round, or mad house for a double one (because getting it can drive you crazy).

Oche is pronounced like hockey without the initial h. Attempts are sometimes made to derive it from an obsolete word meaning to chop off, from Old French ochen to cut a deep notch in something, though the link with darts is obscure. Eric Partridge preferred an origin in hoggins line, for no good reason that one may discern. However, the earliest written examples — from the 1930s — are all spelled hockey and the oche form didn’t become standard until the late 1970s. But why hockey? One story holds that it’s from the name of a West Country brewery, S Hockey and Sons, whose crates were just the right size with which to mark out the throwing distance. That’s so unlikely as to be merely funny. After this piece first appeared, Peter Brooke e-mailed to suggest that the word might well come from the Victorian hockey-dockies for shoes. This is an elaboration of hock-dock, using hock as a slang term for the foot. A hock-dock might be a place where one docks one’s hocks, that is, places one’s feet, but is probably a nonsense reduplication. Share this page

Question: In the game of darts, what is the name of the line behind which the players stand to throw their darts?
Answer: Oche