How to Tune the Violin - Get-Tuned.com APP How to Tune the Violin The violin has four strings which are tuned in fifths. The scientific pitch of the strings from lowest to highest is: G3, D4, A4, and E5. Standard Violin Tuning - A4(Hz):440 16 659.26 The violin is tuned in perfect fifths - each string is tuned an interval of a perfect fifth from the string (or strings) next to it. The strings of the violin are tightened or loosened to produce the right note by the pegs and the fine tuners. Some violins only have fine tuners on the E string, whereas others have fine tuners on all 4 strings. If you buy a violin with only one fine tuner, you do have the option of getting the other three fine tuners installed into the tailpiece by a luthier. As their name suggests, the fine tuners are used for tuning the string if the string is off-pitch by a small interval of no more than half a tone or so.

When the string is out of tune by half a tone or more, then the pegs are used to tune the note initially, with the fine tuner being used afterwards to make sure the note is exactly in tune. Beginners are usually advised not to tune with the pegs unless absolutely necessary, in order to avoid unnecessary string breakages. If you are beginning to tune from the peg, it is a good idea to tune with a scientific tuner to make sure you are not over-tightening the string, however with most low-end scientific tuners you will still have to be wary of tuning an octave too high or too low. Only move the peg about a few millimeters at a time - you will be surprised at how significantly such a small turn can affect the pitch of the string! Quick-Reference Tuning Tips Tuning the Violin When tuning any instrument, you should always tune from below the note, up. This prevents string breakages and systematizes the process of tuning, so you eventually become more familiar with the sound of a perfect, in-tune string. When tuning your violin, you should also always tune using the fine tuners when possible (if you have them - most learner violins should have fine tuners).

When a fine tuner has been wound right down to the end of the screw, loosen the fine tuner all the way to the end of the screw before carefully tightening the tuning peg. This way, you prevent the string from being over-tightened. When you are tuning your violin, play the note continuously with your bow and listen carefully to the string as it tightens towards the desired pitch. Remember, you may need to stop to tune halfway through a practice, especially if you are using new strings as they tend to stretch and may need tightening from the peg multiple times per practice session for the first few days. It is advisable to start by tuning the A string first, followed by the D, G then E strings. When you start to become more familiar with the sound of the notes of the different strings, you can try tuning the strings against each other - this is known as relative tuning (see 'Relative Tuning' section). If you want to know more about the physics of tuning any instrument, head over to The Science of Tuning Musical Instruments . Tuning using a Piano Tuning your violin using a Piano or Keyboard is a relatively simple task. The picture above shows the piano keys that correspond with the strings on the violin.

Make sure you use the 'Middle C' on the picture as a reference point so you don't try to tune your violin an octave too low, or too high. Play the note on the piano and match the correct string to the note. Remember to use the fine tuners on your violin to tune if the string is out by less than half a tone. Use the pedals on the piano so the note you play is able to sound freely, and so that you can have both hands available to tune the violin. Relative Tuning Relative tuning is a method of tuning the violin to itself and is a skill that requires a lot of practice and time. In the beginning, some people find it easier to hear the true pitch of the note by closing their eyes and tilting their left ear towards the F holes. You can try this too while you tune your violin. If you have seen an orchestra play live, you may have seen the orchestra pass around the A. The A string is played by the concertmaster (lead violinist) to make sure all members and sections of the orchestra are tuned properly. As a violinist, you use the A that is 'passed' to you to tune your other strings.

To do this, you first make sure the A string is in tune, then play the A and D strings together, listening for the perfect fifth interval to ring in tune. Then play the D and G strings together, followed finally by the A and E. In order to tune like this you must have a good knowledge or what the strings sound like, and what a perfect fifth sounds like too. Perfect fifths tend to sound very resonant, so you may be able to tune this way if you listen carefully to the ringing sound, or by looking at how the strings vibrate when you play them together. Start listening for these notes when you tune as a beginner as it is a great skill to be able to internalize a set note and understand the exact perfect frequency of the note by ear. Tuning with Electronic Violin Tuners Check out our Tuning with Electronic Violin Tuners article to learn about how to use electronic tuners. Alternate Tunings for the Violin Generally, alternate tunings for the violin are not commonly used by violinists. However, fiddle and country violinists employ a range of alternate tunings to suit the style of music that they are playing.

Some country musicians like to tune their violin in fourths rather than fifths, while others may cross-tune the violin to suit the style of music they are playing. There are a number of different cross-tunings for the violin. The most common cross-tuning for the violin is when the G string is tuned to an A, and the D string to E, so that the violin strings from lowest to highest are tuned A-E-A-E. The A-E-A-E is tuning is most commonly used for songs in A major. Violinists playing in D major may also cross-tune the violin to the tuning (again from lowest to highest) A-D-A-E, where the G-string is raised one tone higher. There are a number of other alternate tunings for the violin that are less popular, most of which are used only in American folk/fiddle music. If you are a beginner, you should always start learning the violin with standard tuning as standardized tuning gives you a better feel for the instrument and is easier to learn. Common tuning Problems The most common problem when tuning is pegs that slip out of place.

To fix this problem try unwinding the peg a round or two and then tighten the peg again, pressing the peg reasonably hard into the peg box while turning the peg. Hopefully the peg will stick, and your violin will stay in tune! If you have wound the fine tuners down to the nub and they cannot screw down any further, you can fix this by first winding the fine tuner back as far as it will go without falling out. Then, tighten the string at the peg, no more than a few millimeters at a time, until the pitch is just under the right note you need. Then you can continue to tune the string at the fine tuner. This method of resetting the fine tuners will prevent the string from breaking or wearing out due to excess tightening. If you find that you over-turn the peg and the string then sounds higher than it is supposed to, you can unwind the peg slightly to fix this as you will not be able to use the unwound fine tuner to tune down. If you still have difficulty with slipping pegs or if you find that your fine tuners are hard to turn then have a look at our Violin Maintenance Guide to read about what you can do to fix these problems.

Quick-Reference Tuning Tips Tuning a violin is easy if you follow these simple tips: Top Tip: Remember to always tune from below the note to prevent strings from breaking. Use the fine tuners as much as possible to prevent string breakages. When they become wound down to the nub, loosen them right the way up, use the peg to tighten the string to just below the note, and use the fine tuners to tune the note up the rest of the way. Don't over tighten the string at the peg as you will not be able to tune down with the loose fine tuners. Tune the A string first, followed by D, G then E strings. This is how orchestral violinists tune their violins. It does help to get into a good tuning routine. If you are using a tuner then try humming the right note from the tuner first, before you tune, so you know exactly what note you are looking for. If you can't reach the note with your voice, then just visualize humming it, this has much the same effect. If you are having technical problems (such as pegs slipping) check out our article on How to Maintain the Violin .

How to Tune the Violin - Music Education Online Select Page How to Tune the Violin A basic summary of the standard techniques for tuning a violin, in chronological steps, including the necessary pitches and intervals. Violin Tuning Notes You can tune your violin with a Snark SN-2 All Instrument Clip-On Chromatic Tuner that clips directly onto your instrument. There are also tradtional tuners that are also metronomes. However, this article deals with the standard – non-electronic method – for tuning a violin. The violin is a four-stringed instrument and, like others in the string family, is tuned to intervals of a perfect fifth. For the practical purposes of the layman, a fifth is the distance between the lower note and five lines and spaces above it. (A fifth may be diminished or augmented, as well as perfect, but that does not concern us here.) Therefore, as on the violin, the lowest string is G ( Concert G ), the next (up a perfect fifth) D ( Concert D ), the next (again up a perfect fifth) A ( Concert A ), and the last (once again up a perfect fifth) E ( Concert E ).

Relative to the pitches on a piano, the G is that just below middle C, but it is actually with the A just above middle C that you should begin to tune the violin. Indeed, in order to tune the violin, you will need a starting pitch, or a pitch with which to match your A string. Generally speaking, the standard pitch is what is called the A 440 , or the A which vibrates 440 times per second. This is, in fact, the A just above middle C on a properly tuned piano, but those without a piano may wish to use a tuning fork, metronome with a tuning feature, or some other device. If using the A on a piano, it is advised that you play the D and F just below the A, resulting in a D minor chord. This will enhance the ear’s ability to hear the pitch properly and to match it correctly. So with this in mind, you begin tuning the violin by playing the example A on your piano (along with the chord if desired), tuning fork, or metronome. Then pluck (strum gently with your finger) or play with the bow the A string on the violin.

The A string is the third string from the left as you are looking at the violin. If the pitches sound identical, which is unlikely, you need do nothing, but if the pitches are not identical, you must adjust the tension of the string with the proper peg. The A peg can easily be traced by visually following the length of the A string up into the pegbox just under the scroll of the violin. To confirm, the A peg is the upper peg on the right side of the pegbox. (There are four pegs in all, of course, and they are usually black and made of ebony, though you will sometimes see them in wood closely matching the wood of the instrument in question.) Customarily, it is easier first to loosen the tension of the string by slightly turning the peg toward you before attempting to match the pitch of the example A. If, however, the string is very loose and much lower than the desired pitch, you would first want to tighten the string a bit. It is important to note that tightening the string too far above its designated pitch may be damaging not only to the string, but more importantly to the instrument itself.

Tremendous amounts of pressure are placed on the bridge and, thus, on the soundpost and soundbox, and even a little too much may have lasting effects on the integrity of the violin. In order to match the pitches, you will need to continue to pluck or play the string, all the while keeping the Concert A in your ear. (Ideally, you will actually still be able to hear the example pitch from the piano or other device, but if not simply play it again.) Then after loosening the string slightly as above, you should slightly tighten it, or turn the peg slightly away from you. It will take some practice going back and forth before you can quickly tune a string, but in time, you will master the slight adjustments needed instinctually and be able to tune the instrument without thinking it through step by step. After you are satisfied that the A string has been tuned properly, you will want to tune the Concert D , or the second string from the left. The distance from D to A is a perfect fifth, as explained initially, and what you will be listening for is the “perfection” of the fifth.

As an example of this, play the D and A together on the piano: you will hear no dissonance, just two notes that sound as if they belong together, for want of a better phrase. Following the example of the A, you then repeat the tuning process with the D string and the D peg. Finding the D peg is as simple as finding the A peg: follow the D string up into the peg box to find that the D peg is the top peg on the left. The adjustment process is the same as that with the A string, only you will be creating a perfect fifth with the A, rather than matching pitch for pitch. (For those beginners with access to a piano, it may be easier to match the D just above middle C to the D string.) Following the tuning of the D string, you will want to tune the Concert G , or the lowest string on the instrument, that string on the far left as you are facing the violin. Again, the procedure is repeated, creating a perfect fifth with the G and D, or matching the G below middle C on the piano. The G peg is the lower peg on the left.

After tuning the G string, all that is left is the Concert E , or that on the farthest right. Because the E string is higher and tighter than the others, it usually has a tuner at the top of the stringholder (the slightly V-shaped piece of wood, often made of ebony, at the base of the instrument next to the chin rest). The tuner is made of metal and has a small screw device that will allow you to adjust the string’s pitch without resorting to turning the peg. If the E string is very much out of tune, you may need to adjust the peg (the lower peg on the right), but do so with care, as even the slightest turn will result in a dramatic change in pitch. The tuner allows for very fine precision in tuning this highest string on the violin. Once you have completed the tuning of each string, be sure to double-check the accuracy of the intonation by playing each consecutive pair of strings together, D-A, G-D, A-E. Make any adjustments that may be necessary, and you are finished.

Depending on the weather (temperature and humidity level), as well as the amount and type of playing, you may need to retune the instrument frequently (for example, every 15 minutes to a half an hour). In ideal conditions, this will not be necessary, but do check periodically to see that your violin is still. Violin Online - Violin Tuning Violin Tuning Learn how to tune your violin with our free violin tuning directions and online violin tuner The four strings on the violin are tuned in perfect fifths to the following notes: G, D, A, E (click on the letter to hear the note) An "A" tuning fork, digital tuner, pitch pipe or a piano may be used to assist with tuning. The violin is tuned to the following notated pitches (click on the note to hear the pitch): For viola, cello or bass tuning assistance, click here: Viola Tuning, Cello Tuning, Bass Tuning. TUNING INSTRUCTIONS Fine tuners or pegs may be used to tune the violin. If the string sounds lower than the correct pitch, gently turn the fine tuner or peg to the right until it reaches the correct pitch.

If the string sounds higher than the correct pitch, gently turn the peg or tuner to the left. Many beginning violinists find it helpful to use a digital tuner to tune their violin, and some models detect and display when the note being tuned matches the desired pitch. Visit our Music Store - Rosin & Accessories page for a sampling of tuners. If you need help changing your violin strings, visit our Changing Violin Strings section. Visit our Violin & Bow page to learn the parts of the violin, or Violin Basics section for a review of how to play the violin. About the Violin About the Violin Related Links The violin is a stringed musical instrument comprising four strings tuned a fifth apart. It is the smallest and highest-tuned member of the violin family of string instruments, which also includes the viola, cello and double bass. The lowest string (and hence the lowest note) is the G just below middle C, then in ascending order D, A and E. Sheet music for a violin almost always uses the G clef (treble clef).

Parts of the Violin The violin is a carefully made hollow wooden box, with a neck protruding from the top, and a internal sound post connecting the front (belly) and the back. The sides of the violin, curiously, are called ribs. The belly is reinforced by an internal bass bar, which runs vertically through the instrument underneath the lowest string. The four violin strings run from a tailpiece attached to the base of the violin, across an intricately carved wooden bridge, then upward just above the fingerboard. At the top end of the fingerboard, the strings cross the nut, a very small second bridge, mounted just slightly above the fingerboard. They then enter the pegbox, where they are wound around their tuning pegs , which are mounted sideways through tightly fitting holes in the pegbox. The tip of the pegbox is ornamented with a carved wooden scroll. The bridge of a violin has two purposes. First, it holds the strings in an arched configuration, permitting each to be touched separately by the bow. The bridge also transmits the sound vibrations of the strings to the belly, from which they are transmitted to the back by the sound post.

>> See how a violin is made Materials of the Violin Generally the belly, the sound post, and the bass bar are made of spruce, a light but strong softwood. The back, ribs, neck, pegbox, scroll, and bridge are of maple, a hardwood. The choice of woods is basically the same as in the piano, where a hardwood bridge is attached to a spruce soundboard, mounted on a hardwood frame. The fingerboard of a violin is of ebony. Some old violins have ivory fingerboards. Strings were originally made of gut. Such strings are still often used in historically accurate performances of music from the 18th century and earlier. However, they have a tendency to go out of tune and snap more easily than modern strings, which are made from metal. Modern A, D and G strings are usually metal-cored and wound with metal for greater mass in order to vibrate at a lower pitch, with the E (top) string being a metal mono-filament of steel. Synthetic cored strings (wound with metal) are also employed today; they combine some of the benefits of gut strings with greater longevity and tuning stability.

The hair of the bow is traditionally horse hair, although many cheaper bows use synthetic material. The hair must be frequently rubbed with rosin in order to grip the strings and cause them to vibrate. Playing the Violin The violin is played by using the right hand to draw the bow at right angles across one of the strings, near the bridge, causing the string to vibrate. Pitch is controlled by selecting the string that the bow contacts (by altering the vertical angle of the bow), and by regulating the sounding length of that string by pressing it down onto the fingerboard with one of the fingers of the left hand. Fingering and Positions The placement of the fingers on the strings invokes no physical aid like frets; the player must achieve the correct position from skill alone, or else the instrument will sound out of tune. Violin players practice long hours partly to train their fingers to land in the right places, and partly to cultivate the ability to correct the pitch very rapidly as it is played. The fingers are conventionally numbered "first" (index) through "fourth" (little finger). The digits 1-4 sometimes appear over the notes in violin music, especially in instructional editions, to indicate the finger to be used.

For the beginning player, the highest note available on a violin is made by pressing the fourth finger down on the E-string, sounding a B. However this is only the highest note in so-called first position, which is taught to beginners first. A higher note can be achieved by sliding the hand up the neck of the violin (towards the player's face) and pressing the fingers down at this new position. Thus, for example, in first position, the first finger placed on the E string gives an F#. Pressing the first finger instead on a G is called second position. Third position is achieved when the first finger presses down on an A, and so on. The upper limit of the violin's range is largely determined by the skill of the player. A good player can easily play more than two octaves on a single string, and four octaves on the instrument as a whole. Violinists often change positions on the lower strings even though this seems unnecessary. Often, this is done to handle a musical passage which would otherwise require fast switching of strings. It is also done to produce a particular timbre: a violin note will sound different depending on what string is used to play it.

Open Strings A special timbre results from playing a note without touching its string with a finger, thus sounding the lowest note on that string. Such a note is said to played on an open string. Open string notes (G, D, A, E) have a very distinct sound resulting from absence of the damping action of a finger, and from the fact that vibrato (see below) is impossible. Other than low G (which can be played in no other way), open strings are usually selected for special effects. One striking effect that employs open strings is barriolage. Here, the player fingers the same note of an open string (necessarily D, A, or E) on the immediately lower string, then moves the bow with a rapid snake-like motion that causes it to touch the fingered string and the open string alternatingly. The same pitch is thus sounded, but the different timbres of an open string vs. a fingered string produce an audible rhythmic pulsation. Barriolage was a favorite device of Joseph Haydn, who used it for example in his string quartet Opus 50 no. 6, and in the "Farewell" Symphony.

Playing two open strings simultaneously (that is, double stopped; see below) produces a bagpipe-like drone, often used by composers in imitation of folk music. Double-Stopping Double stopping is playing two strings simultaneously, producing a chord. This is much harder than normal single-string playing as more than one finger has to be accurately placed on two different strings simultaneously. Sometimes moving to a higher position is necessary in order for it to be physically possible for the fingers to be placed in the correct places. Double stopping is also used to mean playing on three or all four strings at once, although such practices are more properly called triple or quadruple stopping. Collectively, double, triple and quadruple stopping is called multiple stopping. See Double stop for general information about the techniques of double stopping and bowing. >> Learn about Vibrato Harmonics Pressing the finger very lightly on the string can create harmonics. This means that instead of the normal solid tone a wispy-sounding note of a higher pitch is heard. This is caused by the light finger blocking the string's fundamental; the position of the finger determines the first note of that string's harmonic series which is allowed to sound.

Bowing Techniques The violin produces louder notes when the player either moves the bow faster or pushes down harder on the string. The two methods are not equivalent, because they produce different timbres; pressing down on the string tends to produce a harsher, more intense sound. The location where the bow intersects the string also influences timbre. Playing close to the bridge (sul ponticello) gives a more intense sound than usual, emphasizing the higher harmonics; and playing with the bow over the end of the fingerboard (sul tasto) makes for a delicate, ethereal sound, emphasizing the fundamental frequency. Occasionally the strings are struck with the back of the bow (col legno). This gives a much more percussive sound, and is most effective when employed by a full orchestral violin section, since it produces little volume. A second, more modern percussive technique is called the "chop," in which the hair near the bottom of the bow is struck against the strings. >> Watch videos of bowing techniques Tuning the Violin Violins are tuned by twisting the pegs in the scroll, around which the strings are wrapped.

The A string is tuned first, typically to 440 Hz (see Pitch (music)). The other strings are then tuned to it in intervals of perfect fifths using double-stopping. Some violins also have adjustors (also called fine tuners). These permit the tension of the string to be adjusted by rotating a small knob. Such tuning is generally easier than using the pegs, and adjustors are usually recommended for younger players. Adjustors work best, and are most useful, with higher tension metal strings. It is very common to use one on the E-string even if the others are not equipped with them. Small tuning adjustments can also be made by stretching a string with the hand. The tuning G-D-A-E is used for the great majority of all violin music. However, other tunings are occasionally employed (for example, tuning the G string up to A), both in classical music (where the technique is known as scordatura) and in some folk styles. >> More informatino on tuning Tune a Violin Step By Step, Free Online Tuner Tuning Your Violin The 'A' String Traditionally we tune a violin's A string first. In an orchestra, the A will be played by an oboe.

We use the oboe because it is a very unique sound and it is easy to hear. The A that most orchestras use is at a frequency of 440 hz. Some orchestras will use a slightly sharper A (up to 443 hz). No matter what A is used, the other pitches will move slightly sharper or flatter based on that A. Don't forget to push the peg in as you turn it when you are tuning up. The 'D' String Your violin's D string is the next string you should tune. Use the A string as your reference by playing both the A and D strings at once. The interval between the notes is a 'Perfect 5th' which is the beginning of the song "Twinkle, Twinkle, Little Star" (the pitch of the first 'twinkle' being the lower note (D) and the second 'twinkle' the higher note (A). Use your ears to adjust the D string until you hear the characteristic open sound of the perfect 5th. You can also hear a D by clicking here. The 'G' String Repeat the same steps to tune the G string, using the D string as your higher reference note.

Click here to hear a G . The 'E' String Repeat the same steps to tune the E string. Because it is the most delicate string, and the pitch can be altered easily during the tuning process of the other strings, we tune the E string last. Usually you will be able to use the fine tuner on the E string to make a slight adjustment so that the pitch matches a Perfect 5th above the A string. Click here to hear an E. Tuning Tones A D G E Tuning in General Tuning a violin can be a daunting task for beginning violin students. Before I discuss actual tuning, here are some general tips. - Violin Strings are under tremendous pressure. Turning them too far can break the string or even damage the violin. Turn pegs S-L-O-W-L-Y, and just a little at a time. If your violin is equipped with fine tuners on the tailpiece, that may be all you need to turn. - Raise the pitch of a string (make it sound higher) by turning the appropriate peg away from you. Lower the string's pitch by turning it toward you. - If you are using a tuning fork or electronic tuner, let the tone play throughout the tuning process of a string.

- Most people find it easier to listen to a string come into tune from the string being too "flat" (too low) rather than from too "sharp" (too "high"). If you need to tune a string you may wish to loosen the string very slightly, then tighten it until it is correct. NOW ON TO THE TUNING PROCESS Remember that each time you tune the string of a violin you change the stress everywhere on the instrument. Once you get the E string in tune, go back and repeat the process starting with the A. If there has been a change it will only be a minor one, so bring the A back into tune. Then the D. Then the G. And finally the E. Two more things. First, if you have new strings they may take a while to settle in. The string stretches. The winding on the pegs tightens up. These things will make the pitch of the string get lower (go "flat"). So check tuning on new strings more often. This goes for ANY stringed instrument, not just the violin. Second, sometimes pegs will slip. You just can't seem to make the strings stay in tune no matter what you do.

Unless you have a major problem (in which case you need to replace the pegs themselves -- not very common) you can remedy the situation by using PEG DROPS. This helps keep pegs in place, and is a simple fix in most cases. And when you buy a 1/2 ounce bottle it will last for YEARS. Some folks swear by putting a little chalk or rosin dust into the peg hole or onto the peg itself, but I just haven't had the same success with the home remedy and for the price and the convenience of solving my problem without even having to remove the peg . . . the drops seem like a real bargain to me. The opposite problem, pegs that stick and need lubrication, can often be helped by applying PEG COMPOUND. Online Violin Tuner - Get-Tuned.com APP Online Violin Tuner Use this free online violin tuner to tune your violin. This is for the standard GDAE violin tuning. Use the tuning pegs at the top of the violin to get close to the correct tone, and then use the fine tuners on the tail piece to do the fine tuning.

The image on the right shows the notes for each string and also shows where the fine tuners are located. If you want to tune your violin using alternate violin tunings, check out our new Online Violin Tuner which allows you to change the pitch for each string. For other methods on how to tune your violin go to our How to Tune the Violin page. Caution: If your violin is extremely out of tune or if you are replacing the strings on the violin, and tuning it the first time, you have to be careful. If this is the case then tune each string a little at a time and then go on to the next string. You want to keep the tension on each string fairly equal. The bridge is not glued or attached to the violin, it is held there by the tension of the strings. If the tension varies too much it might cause the bridge to collapse. Also while you are tuning pay attention to the bridge, it should always be perpendicular to your violin and be straight, not angled. Learn how to play: Now that you have your violin tuned, it is time to start playing it. Beginner violin players tend to have quite a few options to choose from when it comes to learning how to play.

Visit our article on Learn How To Play the Violin . Tune a Violin - Online Violin Tuner Online Violin Tuner An Online Reference Tone Generator Tool (The Complete Guide to Violin Tuning - Continued from page 3 - Important!) The following online violin tuner will enable you to hear 4 open strings of the violin: G ( lowest sounding and thickest string), D, A and E (highest sounding and thinnest string). There is also a piano keyboard below that you can simulate violin tuning with - the piano being the most popular instrument to sound reference tones for the violin. An open string is a string that is played without any fingers touching the strings. A. Reference note is a single note that is sounded either by another tuned instrument or a tuning device. It is the note that you hear and want to tune a string to. The first string that is tuned is typically the A string. In fact, if you've ever heard an orchestra, all the instruments tune to the A note coming from an oboe before a performance. I have also labelled the pegs for beginners to learn identifying which string belongs to which peg. Click on the yellow circles below to hear the name of the reference note.

Further below, you'll also see where on the musical staff and piano keyboard each of these open strings are. (A Small Bit of Music Theory Trivia) What do the note names G, D, A and E really mean? AND Other Tidbits Communicating music with music sheets and note names on paper is essentially the written form of music language, in much the same way that letters, numbers and words are written forms of our spoken language. Western music essentially uses 7 note names: A, B, C, D, E, F and G to communicate music. The best way to understand note names and how they work is by looking at a piano keyboard as shown below. There are 88 keys in a full piano keyboard, but I've shown only 67 keys (including black keys). Keys further to the right are higher in pitch than to the left. Notice that once you get to note G when going up, you start using note name A again. When you reach note A going down, you start using note name G again. The G string on the violin corresponds to the 21st white piano key from left of a full 88 key piano keyboard.

If we label G the first key and go to the 5th white key to the right, you'll come to the D key. The 5th white key to the right of the D will brings you to A, and finally the 5th white key will bring you to E. That's what it means when violinists say they have to "tune in 5ths (fifths)". Another important concept is the term "Octave". Essentially, everytime we play a round of A,B,C,D,E,F and G, one octave is covered. The next note up would have been an A which would sound higher in pitch than the first A that was played. We say that A is one octave higher than the previous A. We could have just as easily started on D and end on D one octave higher. Finally, there are five black keys belonging to each octave. For example, to play the black key to the right of C would sound the C# or C-sharp note. This same black key is also to the left of D and would be called Db or D-flat. So C-sharp and D-flat are the same black key and sound.

If we played all the white and black keys in one octave, we would have played a 12-key chromatic scale. Now try clicking the yellow circles on the violin above and on the piano below with the same notes names.. Do you hear that they should both have the same pitch? For example, can you hear that note A on the violin should be the same as note A on the piano? Also try playing them both together by clicking first the violin note quickly followed by the the piano note. Other Sources of Reference Tones for Violin Tuning Reference Tones Sources for Violin Tuning Economical Ways to Generate Reference Tones These days it is a simple matter to carry reference tones or any sound references with you while travelling on the road. You can even record all the sounds you want on your blackberry, cellphone, MP3 player or any other mobile recording device thanks to todays technological advances. If you have access to the internet from any of these devices visit our online violin tuner . Below are a couple of mechanical and older, conventional reference tone generators that have been used for years by musicians. The advantage of these is that you'll never have to worry about the battery power running out.

They are also very small, compact and can easily be stored away in your violin case. The Tuning Fork (by Wittner) A very low cost way of generating 440Hz sound for the violin open A string. It is great if you have good hearing and are able to tune the other open strings G, D and E relative to it. Simply knock the prongs of the fork on your knee or any relatively hard surface like the floor, and then stand the fork's ball end handle upon any hard surface like a wooden table. There are different sizes. Generally the larger the size, the longer and louder it vibrates. Another low cost solution that will generate all four reference tones for violin open G, D, A and E. Simply blow into any of the four pipes the hear the reference. Pitch pipes are available for violin/viola and cello. Violin Strings characteristically produce a fundamental resonance plus all the string harmonics . The sound of the instrument is enhanced by body resonances including the air resonance of the f-holes . The Violin The violin, the most commonly used member of the modern string family, is the highest-sounding instrument of that group.

The strings are tuned a fifth apart which in equal temperament gives frequencies G3(196 Hz), D4(293.7 Hz), A4, E5(659.3 Hz) using the A4 = 440Hz standard. Musical groups in the western hemisphere typically tune to equal temperament in agreement with the piano keyboard , but the violin family of instruments is not constrained to play in equal temperament because there are no frets on the fingerboard as found on the guitar to determine the musical intervals. Go Back Some Violin Details The violin, the most commonly used member of the modern string family, is the highest-sounding instrument of that group. Its four strings are stretched over a high arched bridge that permits the playing of one or two strings at a time, as well as the nearly simultaneous sounding of three or four as chords. The overall length of the violin averages about 60 cm (23.5 in), whereas the sounding length of the strings, from bridge to the nut at the end of the fingerboard, is about 32 cm (12.75 in). The instrument is held on the left side of the body, while the right hand holds the bow.

The wider end of the instrument is placed between the player's left shoulder and chin, while the left hand encircles its neck, the fingers stopping the strings to produce the various pitches. Sound is produced by drawing the bow across the strings to make them vibrate, or by plucking the strings (PIZZICATO). The range of the violin extends from G, the lowest open string, upward nearly four octaves. The strings are tuned a fifth apart at G3(196 Hz), D4(293.7 Hz), A4, E5(659.3 Hz) if tuned in equal temperament with the A4 = 440Hz standard. But there are no frets on the fingerboard as found on the guitar, so the player can continuously tune the intervals to any desired pitch in the string's frequency range and play the intervals in any system of temperament . With an ensemble of such instruments, like a string quartet with cello and string bass, the players can experiment with different tunings of the intervals since they are not constrained by frets.

Many consider that violin making reached its pinnacle in the work of Antonio Stradivari and Guiseppe Guarneri in the 18th century. Although the basic construction of the violin has been long established, the subtle variations which make an outstanding violin are the stuff of legend. The sound quality can be changed considerably by the place where the string is bowed. If bowed close to the bridge (sul ponticello) then the sound is brighter with more harmonic content . If bowed further from the bridge (sul tasto) then the sound is darker, more mellow with less harmonic content. Go Back Violin Construction The modern violin consists of about seventy parts. Parts include the belly, the back, the ribs, inside blocks, inside lining, bass bar, purfling, finger board, neck, scroll, nut, lower nut, tailpiece, loop, end button, pegs, strings, bridge , and the sound post. The body of the violin is a hollow box which measures about 35.5 cm in length. The back, the neck, the ribs and the bridge are usually made of maple. The belly, linings, and the soundpost are usually made of spruce.

Scrupulous care is taken in selecting and shaping the belly and back. They must be adjusted to certain frequencies before assembly in order for the main wood resonance of the instrument to be of the apppropriate strength and pitch. Go Back Violin Bridge The action of the violin bridge is essential to the tone of the instrument. It's shape and function have been developed over centuries. Underneath the treble side of the bridge (where the E string rests) is the sound post which extends from the front to the back plate of the instrument. Since this side of the bridge rests on this post, it is essentially fixed and acts as a pivot for the rocking motion of the remainder of the bridge. It does however, couple the sound energy from the top plate to the back plate of the instrument. Underneath the bass side of the bridge (where the G string rests), a long, thin wooden strip called the bass bar is attached, almost parallel to the strings. This bass foot of the bridge is more free to move, and its motion is the point of transfer of energy from the strings to the top plate of the instrument. The extended bass bar helps it to transfer the energy to a larger area of the top plate.

As can be seen from the diagram, the amplitude of motion is larger for the bass strings. This is desirable for balance of loudness, since the sensitivity of the ear drops off a bit toward the lower frequencies of the instrument.

Question: The lowest pitch string on a conventionally tuned violin is?
Answer: G