Unco Industries Inc | worm farming | vermiculture | nightcrawlers | worm castings Venture Into Vermiculture “Growing and Producing Worms. Selling Pure Earthworm Castings” Welcome to Unco Industries, Inc.. Located in Union Grove, WI. Unco Industries has been a leader in the nightcrawler business since 1977. Our products include Wiggle Worm Soil Builder - PURE EARTHWORM CASTINGS an organic fertilizer and Tasty Bait Crawlers - worms that do NOT require refrigeration and can be shipped anywhere in the US. Other products include composting worms for home compost waste recycling and worm cocoons for gardening. Also venture into vermiculture by starting your own worm farm business. A little information about Unco Industries, Inc. business and possibly starting your own worm farm and producing earthworm castings. BE YOUR OWN BOSS!!! Business Startup | UNCO Industries, Inc. | commercial worm farming | grow worms | worm farming | raising worms Business Startup Starting Your Own Worm Farm Business UNCO'S MISSION: TO EDUCATE THE GENERAL PUBLIC ABOUT THE BENEFITS OF EARTHWORMS AND EARTHWORM CASTINGS.

WE WILL DO THIS BY HELPING FAMILIES START AND/OR DIVERSIFY THEIR OWN HOME BASED BUSINESSES TO PRODUCE THE PRODUCTS THAT WILL HELP FILL THE GROWING DEMAND. There are many people who are self proclaimed "experts" who would like you to think that all there is to growing worms is building a few beds in your backyard, stocking them with worms and sitting back and watching your worms double in quantity every 60 days! These so called worm farmers are the equivalent of someone buying a dozen chickens, throwing out a little chicken mash everyday and then saying that they are in the chicken business! Granted, they manage to keep a few chickens alive, but would you call them a commercial chicken operation? Unco Industries , Inc. has been in the business for over 40 years. See what a commercial worm growing operation is all about. DO NOT CONFUSE THESE BACKYARD OPERATIONS WITH COMMERCIAL WORM GROWING! IF YOU ARE TRULY INTERESTED IN SEEING WHAT COMMERCIAL WORM FARMING IS ALL ABOUT (PART TIME OR AS A BUSINESS), YOU NEED TO CLICK ON LINK BELOW TO LEARN MORE OR WATCH THE QUICK VIDEO...

Vermicomposting: Waste Reduction and Worms Worms? Traditionally, worms have been raised for fishing bait as well as a protein and enzyme source for various products, including animal food and biodegradable cleansers. Worms have also been used to manage agricultural wastes such as dairy manure. They convert waste into worm manure (also known as worm castings), a nutrient-rich, biologically beneficial soil product. Vermicomposting is the use of worms as a composting method to produce vermicompost. Vermiculture is worm farming for the production of worms. In recent years, worm farming has been practiced on both a small and large scale with three complementary goals in mind: waste diversion, vermicomposting, and vermiculture. What is vermicompost? Vermicompost, or castings, is worm manure. Worm castings are considered by many in horticulture to be the very best soil amendment available. The nutrient content of castings is dependent on the material fed to the worms--and worms are commonly fed materials with high nutrient content, such as food waste and manures. Worm castings provide these nutrients in a form readily available to plants.

The biology of the worm’s gut facilitates the growth of fungus and bacteria that are beneficial to plant growth. In addition, many chemical compounds are found in castings that are thought to promote plant growth. Much of the content of worm castings and their effect on plants is still being studied. Nonetheless, farmers and soils blenders know the benefits of worm castings from their actual effect on plants and product sales, even when the worms are fed low-nutrient materials such as paper fiber. What kind of worms are used for vermicomposting? Most worm farms raise two main types of earthworm: Eisenia foetida and Lumbricus rubellis. These worms are commonly used to produce vermicompost, as well as for fish bait. Both are referred to by a variety of common names, including red worms, red wigglers, tiger worms, brandling worms, and manure worms. These two species are often raised together and are difficult to tell apart, though they are not believed to interbreed. While several other species have been successfully bred in recent years, this fact sheet focuses primarily on the use of these species. The night crawler (Lumbricus terrestrius) is also harvested and sold for fishing bait.

This species does not breed well in captivity and is generally harvested from wild stock. What do worms need? Worms can survive a wide variety of temperatures, but they thrive best at temperatures between 55 and 77 degrees Fahrenheit (13–25 degrees Celsius). They need a moist, organic substrate or “bedding” in which to live. They will eat the bedding and convert it into castings along with other feed. Moisture and oxygen are vital and bedding should be about as damp as a wrung-out sponge. A worm’s skin is photosensitive and therefore they need a dark environment. Because worms have no teeth, they need some type of grit in their bedding that they can swallow and use in their gizzard to grind food, much like birds do with small stones. A little soil or sand will work, but it should be sterile so that no foreign organisms are introduced. Common additives used include rock dust or oyster flour (ground up oyster shells). Since oyster flour is basically calcium carbonate, adding too much will raise the pH in the worms’ environment. Worms prefer a slightly acidic pH level of about 6.5.

For a typical worm bin, no more than a tablespoon of grit is needed, which should not significantly alter the pH. What will worms eat? Worms will eat a wide variety of organic materials such as paper, manure, fruit and vegetable waste, grains, coffee grounds, and ground yard wastes. While worms will eat meat and dairy products, it is best not to feed these materials or oily foods to worms, due to potential odor and pest problems. Worms will consume limited amounts of citrus scraps, but limonene, a chemical compound found in citrus, is toxic to worms, so it is best to limit or avoid feeding them this material. Since worms have no teeth, any food they eat must be small enough to swallow, or soft enough for them to bite. Some foods may not be soft enough initially for them to consume, but they quickly degrade so that the worms can consume them. Where should you keep worms? Worms can be raised on a small or large scale, depending on your goals. If you are trying to manage food scraps for yourself or your family, a small 12-to 20-gallon worm bin should be adequate.

The bin should be dark and opaque, should have a lid, drainage, and aeration holes in the bottom. Small 1-inch legs and a tray underneath are also helpful. If you are trying to manage larger amounts of organic materials or produce large amounts of worms or vermicompost, worms can be managed in low-mounded rows called worm beds or “ricks,” or in large in-vessel continuous-flow systems available from suppliers. Worms burrow into the bedding to protect themselves, and they will not come out to sunlight unless bedding conditions are intolerable. How do you harvest worms and vermicompost? Large-scale worm farmers using worm beds generally use harvesting equipment to separate worms and castings. In-vessel “continuous flow” systems are generally designed to produce vermicompost. They rely on the surface-feeding tendency of red worms to incorporate a casting harvest mechanism on the bottom of the system, below the active feeding area. Food and additional bedding is added to the top, encouraging the worms to continue feeding upwards. Smaller scale worm bins are harvested in a variety of ways. In all cases, harvesting should begin when the bedding and consumed food has turned a rich dark brown, with a consistency of coffee grounds.

Waiting longer can result in a sludgy material that is difficult to harvest and may become anaerobic and begin to smell. One commonly used method of harvesting is to dump the bin onto a tarp in bright light, allowing the worms to burrow down to escape the light. Castings can then be separated by slowly scraping them away, pausing periodically to let the worms burrow further. Eventually, you are left with a pile of worms. Some will harvest by placing new bedding in one half of the bin, and feed exclusively on that side. Eventually (sometimes over a period of several weeks) most of the worms will move to the side with the new bedding, and the finished compost can be harvested. One simple method is to place a large amount of food in one area of the bin. Within a few days to a week, this should become a writhing mass of feeding worms. By turning a plastic bag inside out over your hand, you can then “reverse harvest” the worms by simply grabbing the mass of worms and turning the bag right-side out. You then have enough worms to start your bin again. Some worms and egg cases will be left in the castings.

This should be no problem if the castings are used soon for indoor potted plants. Castings should be cured before outdoor use. Harvested castings can be mixed into potting soil soon after harvest for best effect on indoor plants. If they are to be stored or used for outdoor plants, they should be cured in an aerobic environment to dry, eliminate the potential to introduce new species and prevent mold. Will I need to buy more worms? Worms will regulate their own population according to the conditions of their environment. These conditions include space, moisture, pH, temperature, bedding material, and amount of food available. A typical household worm bin might start out with one pound of worms (approximately 1,000 adults), which will soon multiply to 2,000–3,000 if conditions are good. Conversely, if one or more of the above conditions are unacceptable, the worms may crawl out leaving the bin or die off. Red worms are hermaphroditic, but they need two worms to procreate and exchange DNA. A small egg case, usually amber in color, is produced which can contain from 2 to 20 baby worms. What other organisms live with worms?

Worms do not live in isolation. In addition to microscopic organisms like bacteria and some fungi, you may notice several other creatures, such as springtails, mites, pot worms (small white worms often mistaken as baby red worms), and an occasional fungus gnat. These organisms generally stay in the bin, live in harmony with the worms and cause little problems. Consistently burying the food in the bedding will minimize the attraction of unwanted species. Keeping the bin moist and stirring the castings and bedding periodically will minimize the growth of fungi and the potential of fungal spores. If the bin is not stirred, full-sized mushrooms can grow. If a bin is kept outside, the number of organisms that find their way into a bin increases greatly. Slugs and snails, ants, spiders, soldier fly larvae, fruit flies, pill bugs, centipedes, even frogs, salamanders and some small rodents have found their way into outdoor worm bins. Rarely will more than three or four of these cohabitants occupy a bin. Most do not hinder the functioning of a bin, and they are not bothersome. It is best to keep outdoor bins outside to prevent the introduction of unwanted animals into your house.

The most common “pests” in worm bins are ants and fruit flies. Keeping the bin moist, stopping feeding for a week or two, and stirring the bin every day can eliminate ants. Fruit flies can be more problematic, and sometimes can only be eliminated by starting over. Short of that, stopping feeding for a couple weeks and using flypaper or other fly traps can work if the population of flies is not too high. Worms raised in worm beds can also attract predators such as birds and moles. Birds can be deterred in traditional ways such as placing scarecrows near the beds, or the beds can be covered with cardboard or other material. Moles can breed quickly and can eat a lot of worms. They can be deterred either by raising the worms in an in-vessel system, on a cement pad, or placing a wooden or plastic barrier several inches into the soil around the beds. The barrier should stick out of the soil an inch or two to prevent the moles from finding a way over it. Are vermicomposting facilities regulated? Vermicomposting is defined as an “excluded activity” from California solid waste regulation.

However, an “exclusion” recognizes that a given activity is involved in solid waste handling and therefore must comply with fundamental health and safety codes. According to California food and agriculture regulations, worms can be considered livestock, much as cows are livestock in a ranching or dairy operation. Within reason, certain organic wastes can be viewed as feed. However, the handling of compostable material prior to and after use as a growth medium is subject to regulation under solid waste regulations. If a large worm operation becomes a nuisance by taking in more waste than can be effectively fed to and processed by the worms (resulting in odors, for instance), the activity could be viewed as a solid waste facility. Concerns about a particular circumstance should be directed to a community’s environmental health department. Where can I get more information on vermicomposting? Individuals interested in pursuing more information on vermicomposting or vermiculture, as well as worm and soil market issues, can contact an existing worm farm, soil blender, or organic waste processor to discuss the present and future possibilities of worm enterprises. Explore the rest of this site for more information on worms.

Last updated: July 22, 2011 Organic Materials Management Introduction to Worm Farming - Working Worms - Vermiculture Introduction to Worm Farming Cross sectional diagram of our Three Bin Composter “Why start a worm farm? A fisherman might become a worm farmer to simply raise worms for fishing bait, but the more likely motivation these days, would be to convert organic waste directly into compost, using a process known as vermiculture or vermicomposting to make a rich organic fertilizer for the garden or for pot plants”. INDEX TO WEB PAGES INEXPENSIVE 3-TIERED WORM FARMS WITH TAPS FOR WORM TEA (Mosquito netting is for keeping out flying pests) INTRODUCTION This website is dedicated to all fellow worm enthusiasts around the world – to both the beginner in vermiculture and also to the old hand at worm farming. Whatever your knowledge, you are guaranteed to find something of use in these pages. The beginner will be able to find how to set up a cheap, easily assembled DIY worm farm and then everything he/she needs to know about succesfully establishing the wriggly darlings in their own little paradise and keeping them healthy. What about setting up a worm farm with a child?

For the more experienced in worm composting, there are handy tips on making money from your worm farming enterprise, a useful technical dictionary, Worm Terms explaining all the fancy terminology of worm culture and a great deal of well researched information about all the various worm species , how to deal with pests and much, much more. And in the unlikely event that everything is “old hat” to you – well, then have you ever thought about sharing your knowledge and writing a book or an ebook about your experiences in worm farming yourself? There are very few really useful books on this topic and there is plenty of space for any aspiring writer who is enthusiastic about vermiculture to create his/her own special niche, by supplying specialised information to a rapidly growing number of hobbyists. We would like to ecourage you to do this. A well written book, (especially in handbook form), would be an almost certain success. If you need help, there are a number of useful information sites and informative books, explaining how to get your book or ebook published. Furthermore we would really like to encourage all potential authors to write something for our Vermiculture Blog – Why not get in some good practice, with us, before you go for your first Pulitzer?

Anyway, wherever you are coming from, we hope that you will enjoy this site and find something really useful for your future worm farming in it. Enjoy! Make a Worm Farm in 2.5 Minutes Topics ProgressTH: Organic Agriculture: What is Vermiculture? ภาษาไทย Organic Agriculture: What is Vermiculture? March 22, 2016 | ProgressTH Located 2 hours south of Bangkok in the Thai province of Phetchaburi, is the provincial capital, Phetchaburi City. While it is surrounded by what seems like endless farmland, it itself is an urban landscape complete with all the comforts you could find in any small city. It is the least likely place in the province you would expect to find a farm of any kind, yet nestled in a small alley between two larger buildings, with a small home squeezed far in the back, lies a vermiculture operation. Vermiculture is the use of earthworms to break down organic material into rich fertilizer for use in organic gardening and farming.

Despite what one would expect to see at such an operation, this alley was orderly, clean, professional, even a little stylish, and included many clever conventions to quickly and efficiently separate the worms from the compost and prepare them for distribution to either single customers looking for a small portion for use at home, or to much larger operations requiring many large bags of fertilizer for their rows and fields. Large operations like this can easily be done almost anywhere. One probably wouldn’t want to do it inside, but almost any shaded spot outdoors in the city, suburbs, or countryside can easily be used for vermiculture operations big and small. Vermiculture is great for any organic garden or farm, but they are particularly suited for urban agriculture because other sources of natural fertilizer, such as larger livestock are usually not possible to care for properly in urban environments. Vermiculture, unlike livestock, requires little space, uses easily available food (kitchen scraps) and the little inhabitants of vermiculture operations often go unseen and unnoticed by most. Together with aquaponics and biogas , vermiculture is a great alternative to livestock for onsite organic fertilizer production.

For those who seek the benefits of vermiculture products but would rather not do vermiculture themselves, operations like those found in Phetchaburi City can turn vermiculture not only into a benefit for their own gardens or farms, but into a small business helping other gardeners and farmers source high-quality, organic, local fertilizer. For those that don’t mind tending a small vermiculture operation, farming becomes an option even in the most unlikely of places. Healthy soil can be made almost anywhere with vermiculture, meaning that even if you live in a city, you can still break your dependence on chemical fertilizers and go organic. In fact, Growing Power in the US uses both vermiculture and aquaponics to produce nutrients and grow an abundance of healthy, organic produce all year round in an urban environment. December 20, 2016 | ProgressTH We've been working on a weather station over the past week or so, ever since we took part in FabCafe B... Vermiculture - YouTube Vermiculture Want to watch this again later? Sign in to add this video to a playlist. Need to report the video? Sign in to report inappropriate content. The interactive transcript could not be loaded. Loading...

Rating is available when the video has been rented. This feature is not available right now. Please try again later. Uploaded on Dec 21, 2009 CSC Land Committee member George Blackman explains vermiculture, the method of composting with redworms, in his worm casting informational video. Category Vermiculture - Appropedia: The sustainability wiki Appropedia needs your support - Please Donate Today Vermiculture See also the Vermiculture category . for subtopics, how-tos, project pages, designs, organization pages and more. Contents Introduction[ edit ] Vermiculture, or worm farming, is the utilization of some species of earthworm such as Eisenia fetida (commonly known as red wiggler, brandling, or manure worm), E. foetida, and Lumbricus rubellus to make Vermicompost (aka Worm Compost, Vermicast, Worm Castings, Worm Poop, Worm Humus or Worm Manure), which is a nutrient-rich, natural fertilizer and soil conditioner, which is the end-product of the breakdown of organic matter.

Unlike composting, worm farming can be carried out on the balcony of an apartment, in the basement of a house, or in a heated garage if the bin is suitable and it is well maintained to avoid odors. Worm bins also: can speed up the process by months [1] are often much smaller than compost bins can take pure kitchen waste, without needing garden waste or soil once the colony has been established can handle paper (e.g. paper with food on it, which can't be put out with paper recycling) Vermiculture can be an especially useful practice in developing countries where fertilizer is harder to obtain. It can be used to convert animal waste, food scraps, and other dead organic matter into a nutrient rich fertilizer. This can ultimately be used to fertilize a home garden and produce a greater quality and quantity of food for the family. History of Composting and Vermiculture[ edit ] History of Composting[ edit ] One can imagine that that the more nutrients a plant has, the healthier it is and the better it will grow. The healthier plant will produce more fruit. Modern science shows us how nutrients promote better plant growth, but in prehistoric times it was most likely an observation.

If one puts a nutrient rich substance such animal manure in the soil next to a plant, it will promote a greater yield. Thus, the need to produce nutrient rich organic matter from animal manure, leaves, and other plant matter, was born. It is hard to pinpoint the origin of composting because of its very long history most likely dating to prehistoric times. Some of the first written accounts of composting date to 3000 B.C where the use of manure as fertilizer is mentioned on clay tablets. Composting throughout history is documented in written works such as the bible, ancient Chinese writings, and the Bagavad Vita. Prehistoric farmers composted by mixing straw with animal manure. Ancient Greeks composted using straw from animal stalls. Native Americans and early European settlers enjoyed the benefits of mixing fish and organic matter to make a nutrient rich fertilizer for plants. [2] In 1840, Justus Von Liebig published ORGANIC CHEMISTRY IN ITS APPLICATION TO AGRICULTURE AND PHYSIOLOGY. In this book, Liebig showed that plants absorb nutrients that are suspended in solution [3] .

This disproved the theory that plants “eat” humus (nutrient rich organic matter) to gain their nutrients. Liebig’s publication revolutionized the farming industry. It was much easier for farmers to apply chemical fertilizers rather that add composted material. These practices led to land degradation through erosion, insect infestation, and eutrophication of waterways by runoff. In 1940, Sir Albert Howard developed a composting method that involved specific ratios of carbon and nitrogen, 3 to 1 respectively. This was achieved by mixing three parts green matter such as plant leaves to one part brown matter such as animal manure [4] . Howard proved that compost was better for plant nutrient uptake than chemical fertilizers alone because compost improved soil aeration and water holding capacity which allowed for better nutrient uptake. Howard proved that compost was a natural way of producing plant fertilizer and that it was actually better for the plant. This inspired people to develop different methods of composing such as tumbling barrel composters and backyard composters. People began to compost at home to create a natural fertilizer for gardening. A study found that people are most likely to compost based on their attitude on what composting involves and their knowledge of composting [5] .

Howard showed that composting produced a valuable fertilizer, but other studies have shown that composting is a valuable way of reducing the amount of organic waste that is put into landfills. It is estimated that each person in the United States generates 2.6 pounds of organic waste per day [6] . A study done in the UK showed that 20% of biodegradable waste could be diverted from a landfill if 20% of the community would compost at home [7] . Due to economic and public health constraints, large scale composting operations didn’t gain traction in Europe until the 1950’s and in the United States until the 1980’s [8] . New developments in composting inspired cities, farmers, and industries to compost on a large scale. Cities started to use composting in waste water treatment so that waste could be converted to fertilizer and not dumped into a landfill. A composting plant in Sweden would take waste and dewater it, mix it with shredded refuse, pulverize it, and allow it to compost. They would then use the compost as fertilizer [9] . In the last 20 years, composting has increased especially on a household scale due to its beneficial impacts on the environment.

History of Vermiculture[ edit ] Fig 1. Cover of "Worms Eat Our Garbage" by Mary Appelhof, one of the first books on home vermicomposting [10] The Egyptians were one of the first cultures to recognize the soil amending properties of the earthworm. Under Cleopatra’s rule, the removal of earthworms from Egypt was a crime that could have one killed [11] . Worms have been observed by such scholars as Aristotle and Charles Darwin as organisms that decompose organic matter into rich humus or compost [12] . It is believed that the mother of modern day vermiculture is Mary Appelhof. As a Michigan biology teacher, Appelhov wanted to continue composting in winter months even though she lived in a northern climate. She ordered worms from a bait shop nearby and set up one of the first indoor composting systems [12] . She found her composting system to be a great success. She published two brochures titled “Basement Worm Bins Produce Potting Soil and Reduce Garbage” and “Composting your Garbage with Worms”.

Her work was featured in a New York Times titled “Urban Composting: A New Can of Worms”. This inspired many people to partake in vermiculture, especially urban apartment dwellers [12] . Some of the advantages of vermicomposting over regular composting are that vermicomposting can be done indoors with relatively no negative effects, it is faster than regular composting, and it produces and overall better compost. A study showed that traditional composting it associated with elevated temperatures within the pile due to microbial activity. These high temperatures actually slow the composting process [13] . Vermicomposting produces little heat which does not slow the composting process. Vermicomposting has also been studied and implemented on a large scale. One study found that composting animal waste was a valuable way to produce food for other animals. Pig, cow, and chicken waste was composted and converted into worm biomass. This worm biomass was found to be a nutritious food stock for other animals [14] . Biology of Worms[ edit ] Vermiculture uses worms to break down organic matter into Compost. Compost is a rich fertilizer that can be added to soil to provide many benefits.

The most common worm used in vermiculture is the red earthworm (Eisenia fetida). Worm anatomy and physiology is an integral part of the design of a vermicomposter so it will be discussed here. Other common earthworms can be used in vermiculture and they can be implemented into the system the same way as Eisenia fetida. Because of worms’ similarities, the common earthworm (night crawler type) will be discussed here and will be related to E. fetida. Biology[ edit ] Worms are found throughout the world. They are small (10-300mm long) tube shaped organisms that live in or on top of the soil. Worms start their life as a cocoon deposited in the soil by parents. Worms can life from a few months to 10 years, but they usually do not reach the latter age because of environmental hazards they are exposed to. Some species of worms have the capacity to regenerate parts that are detached, although tests show this is an uncommon trait [15] . All earthworms have both male and female reproductive organs.

These hermaphroditic digesters will mate at different times depending on their specific species and acclimation to their environment. [16] Worms mate both on the surface and in the soil, with the latter being most common. Once fertilized and grown, the worm will deposit the cocoon where environmental conditions are right in the soil [15] . Worms have a relatively simple digestive system that runs along the length of their body. Organic matter is ingested at the front of the worm where the mouth is located. The organic matter is then passed through a gizzard there strong muscles contract and grind up the organic matter. Enzymes are then released by the stomach to break down organic matter and release energy that the worm can use. Worms have a symbiotic relationship with microorganisms in their digestive system. The microorganisms help the worm digest organic matter while the worm gives the microorganisms a place to live. In turn, both the microorganisms and the worm benefit from the relationship. Waste is excreted by the worm at the back where the anus is located [15] . The waste excreted by worms is called worm casts (vermicasts).

Vermicasts contain more micro-organisms, inorganic materials, and organic matter in the form available to plants than regular soil [15] . Earthworms are sensitive to pH. A study showed that E. fetida found in more acidic peats (3.6-4.2) burrowed less, respired less, and produced less castings [17] . The activities (metabolism, growth, reproduction, respiration) of earthworms are greatly influenced by temperature. These two factors can influence how fast a vermiculture system operates. Earthworms can be killed by extreme temperature such as extreme heat and extreme cold. They can also be killed by drying. Worms are usually found where there is much organic matter. Conversely, they are usually not found where there is little organic matter to be eaten. Worms can eat a wide variety of organic matter for food. In adverse conditions, they can even extract nourishment from soil for a short duration [15] . Impacts of Worms on their Surrounding Ecosystem[ edit ] Even though worms are relatively small and don’t account for much of the biomass in an ecosystem, they can still have large impacts.

There is still a lot about worms that is not known. In the book “The Biology of Worms” the authors call for much more research to be done [15] . Benefits[ edit ] There are many benefits of having earthworms in an ecosystem. Common earthworms (nightcrawler types) might be the “most efficient biological agents to be found anywhere in the world. They specialize in removing dead organic material from the surface of the land, greatly enriching it in the process, and then…carry the improved reside deep underground, right down amongst the roots of plants, where it is most needed." [18] Earthworms have been shown to increase seed dispersal. A study showed a positive correlation between the number of earthworms present and the number of seedlings [19] . This study showed that earthworms inadvertently eat plant seeds. The worms continue to burrow through the soil as these seeds pass through their digestive system. The seeds are untimely excreted within the soil. Not only is this a great seed dispersal system for plants, the seeds are also excreted in a worm cast which is a nutrient rich substance for the seed.

Worms have been found to be sensitive to pesticides and herbicides, and thus have been used as bio-indicators of healthy or poor soils [20] . This can be an easy way for farmers to assess the health of their soils. Another study showed that E. fetida can be used as a bio-indicator of high concentrations of heavy metals such as copper and lead in the soil [21] . Earthworms have also been shown to increase bio-turbation. A study showed that earthworms take organic matter from the surface of the soil and migrate it to the upper soil horizons. This ultimately took nutrients such as N and P and put it proximal to plants roots, increasing the accessibility of nutrients to the plant [22] . One of the most beneficial aspects of worms is the casts they produce. Worm casts (vermicasts/ worm poop/worm compost) are the feces of worms. Worm casts are high in nutrients such as NH4, accessible P and SO4, K, Ca, and Mg. Soil with worms also contained almost twice as much organic carbon [23] .

Another study showed that worms casts stimulated plant growth by making nutrients more available and also by increasing the water holding capacity of the soil [24] . Worm casts increase the amount and accessibility of nutrients to the soil, the water holding content of the soil, and the amount of beneficial microorganisms in the soil. Negative Effects[ edit ] Earthworms have been shown to have a plethora of benefits. But, some of these characteristics make them bad for certain ecosystems. In the native northern hardwood forests of United States, earthworms are, in recent history (since last glacial period) an invasive species. These earthworms are introduced almost exclusively by human activity such as anglers dumping unused worms in waterways or on soil, bulk earth movement associated with construction and forestry road construction, and by vermiculturalists introducing them through compost. Although earthworms are great for plants, a study showed that invading earthworms were correlated with a loss of understory plant species, and increase is soil carbon loss, and their effect of nutrient cycling [25] . Northern hardwood forests have adapted to a slow organic decomposition rate and snow nutrient turnover.

Earthworms are invasive in these ecosystems because they are very efficient and fast at decomposing organic matter and nutrient turnover and northern hardwood forests are not adapted to these conditions. A study showed that in just four years, an organic layer of 10cm was depleted in a hardwood forest in Minnesota [26] . The slow organic turnover in hardwood forests provides a sink for carbon. Thus, the faster decomposition of organic matter by invading earthworms has also been proposed as a possible driver of global climate change due to the release of this carbon from storage [25] . There are ways people can stop this invasion, especially when it comes to vermicomposting. A study showed that some species of worms are less tolerant of cold weather. Of these species, E. fetida is a species that cannot tolerate cold temperatures, thus it will not be able to tolerate northern winters [27] . This study suggest that in cold climates where worms are known to be invasive (Northern Hardwoods), vermiculturist can freeze their worms for an extended time to kill them and mitigate the potential for invasion. Biology of E. fetida[ edit ] Fig. 2 Picture of E. fetida E.

fetida, the worm most commonly used in vermiculture, have characteristics of common worms. They are epigian, meaning the spend most of their time above the soil. E. fetida is most commonly chosen as the worm used in vermicompost systems because of its ability to process organic matter rapidly. One study showed that the presence of E. fetida in manure increased overall microbial biomass and activity. Their presence also increased the overall fungal biomass and activity. Their presence also increased the diversity of both microbes and fungi. In this study, the rate of carbon loss was almost twice that where the worms were not present [28] . This shows that with E. fetida, decomposition happens almost twice as fast. Because of this property of fast decomposition rate, E. fetida is usually chosen as the worm for vermiculture because it reduces the time needed to make compost. E. fetida is also chosen for vermiculture because of its ability to break down cellulose. Cellulose is the most abundant polymer in nature and it is the largest component that enters terrestrial ecosystems. A study showed that the presence of E. fetida almost doubled the rate of cellulose decomposition [29] .

Design[ edit ] One of the benefits of a vermicomposter is its relatively simple design. There are three main parts to a vermicomposter. There is the storage area where the worms and organic matter is stored, the organic matter (food scraps) and bedding for the worms, and lastly there are the worms. Storage Area[ edit ] Fig 3. A small scale vermicompost bin. Note the holes in lid to allow air flow Storage areas for vermicomposters are diverse and can be selected to meet the needs of the individual who is composting. The storage area’s function is to contain the worms and organic matter to be composted. Ultimately, the only restriction is that it needs to keep your worms centralized. This is relatively easy because if you create an environment suitable for the worms they will be content living in any storage area. Some important things to consider are size, materials, and if one would like to build their own or purchase the storage area. If indoors, storage areas typically have a cover that reduces smells. If a cover is present, holes need to be installed to allow oxygen to enter the storage area.

Holes should also be installed at the bottom of the storage area to allow excess fluid drainage to ensure proper moisture conditions inside the storage area. If you'd like to make your own bin there are many designs that have already been implemented around the world. These can be adopted and altered to suit your own needs most appropriately: Worm Farming : a page with great information and three different designs. Shoebox- Sized Bin :another small-scale design Bucket Design : slightly less small-scale, higher capacity, stores under some sinks. Typical storage bins for household use are storage totes, buckets, and trash bins. Others have constructed their bins out of wood or plastic. The bins should not contain chemicals that may leach into the compost such as those commonly found in Styrofoam. If the storage area is outside, the location of the storage area should be considered. Earthworms do not like extreme temperatures, so very sunny spots should be avoided. Organic Matter and Bedding[ edit ] Bedding is important for the system especially in the early stages. The bedding provides early habitat for the worms provides them with a food source early on.

Bedding is typically composed of what earthworms would usually eat such as leaf litter, grass litter, and other dead organic plant matter. People have used non-traditional organic matter as well such as shredded paper and saw dust. The bedding must be moistened to assure proper environmental conditions of the worm. Worms[ edit ] Worms are an integral part of the composting system. Worms most commonly selected are E. fetida and E. foetida. The function of the worms is to convert organic matter into compost. Worms should be selected based on how much organic matter you wish to compost and how fast. Worms can eat roughly their body weight per week. This is a very crude estimate because so many factors can affect composting rate, but it can be used as a good estimate. Using this figure, if one produces 1kg of household food waste or other organic matter per week, they will then need round 1/8 kg of worms. Construction and Operation[ edit ] Construction[ edit ] The first step is to select a storage area. The first thing to consider is the size of you storage area.

This depends on how much organic matter you will be composting, the amount of worms you have, and how often you would like to switch storage areas. Your bin size should depend on these three things. Large amounts of organic matter per week will need larger areas. Longer time between bin changes will also require larger areas. Storage areas that are planned for household use should have a lid to help reduce smells. Bins should have small holes to allow adequate air flow and holes on the bottom to allow for access fluid drainage. Once a storage area is obtained, puncture holes in the lid (if present) and bottom to allow airflow and fluid drainage. If composting in a house, the bin should be elevated to allow drainage of fluid. A set of bricks works nicely. You will also want to put something under the bin to catch fluid. The third step is to prepare the bedding for the worms. Once the bedding has been chosen (leaves, newspaper, sawdust), start by submerging it in water. Remove the bedding from the water and squeeze out the water. Then take the bedding and lay it in the storage area. There should be roughly 5 cm of bedding across the floor of the storage area.

The bin is now ready for worms and composting. Operation[ edit ] Fig 4. Introducing worms into a vermicomposter The first step in operating a vermicomposter is to introduce the worms to the system. Remember that this should be scaled to the amount of organic matter you will add weekly. Note that you worms will reproduce and become larger, ultimately eating more organic matter. Thus, it is best to start with a smaller amount of worms to ensure that there will be enough organic matter. Put your worms on your already prepared bedding. The worms can survive on the bedding alone for a short duration, so adding organic matter isn’t crucial within the first couple of hours. Once introduced, the worms will want to explore their new habitat. If composting in your house, watch the bin closely first 24 hours to ensure no worms escape the bin. Within 24-48 hours the worms should become acclimated to their new habitat and will no longer try to escape. The next step is to add organic matter. Add the organic matter to be composting by placing it on top of the worm bedding. New organic matter should not be added until previous organic matter is almost all composted.

There are few things that earthworms cannot eat. Suitable organic matter that can be added are coffee grounds with filter and tea bags all fruits and vegetables, including rinds and cores egg shells Maintenance[ edit ] A vermicomposter requires little maintenance. A long a food is added when previously added organic matter is almost composted the system should require little maintenance. Check on the composter weekly. The system is running properly if the worms are within the organic matter and bedding. If the worms are trying to escape this is an indicator that the conditions in the bedding and organic matter are not suitable for the worms. Once the bin is full or you wish to use the compost, the vermicompost will have to be harvested. The vermicompost is ready to be harvested when it has an earthy smell and no organic matter is visible. Harvesting[ edit ] Fig 6. Diagram showing how to harvest compost using the vertical method Handsorting, vertical sorting, and horizontal sorting are all ways of harvesting vermicompost. Some ways are faster, but involve more work while others are slower but involve little work. Handsorting - This is done by dumping the vermicompost onto a sheet where the worms can be sorted out.

Once dumped, worms can be picked out of the vermicompost and put into the new composter. Sift through the vermicompost removing all worms and worm eggs (cocoons). The eggs are white/tan and pea sized. They can be easily recognized and removed. A bright light can be focused on the pile to concentrate the worms toward the center of the pile if desired. This method is more labor intensive but it is fast compared to vertical and horizontal sorting. Vertical sorting – Vertical sorting uses an alternating bin and allows the worms to sort themselves from the vermicompost. This works best if bins are being used for the storage area because they are easily stacked. To sort vertically, obtain a second bin and prepare it as you would if you are starting a new vermicomposter. Remove the lid of the bin currently in use and place the new bin on top of vermicompost. Place new organic matter on top of the bedding in the new vermicomposter. Over time as the worms run out of food in the old composter, they will migrate to the new bin via the drainage holes in the bottom of the new bin.

This way or sorting requires minimal work because they worms sort themselves, but it does require more time. Fig 7. Diagram of how to harvest vermicompost using the horizontal method Horizontal sorting – Horizontal sorting is similar to vertical sorting but it does not require a second storage area. To sort horizontally, partition your bin into areas. Add organic matter in a linear fashion. As you add your new organic matter across the bin, the worms will migrate with it. Eventually, you can harvest the vermicompost at the other side of the bin as your worms migrate to the fresh organic matter. This system requires minimal work sorting, but it does require more time as opposed to hand sorting. Using the Vermicompost[ edit ] Vermicompost can be used immediately or can be stored for later. Vermicompost can be mixed with soil as a soil amendment to increase nutrients, water holding capacity, and aeration. Vermicompost can be used as top dressing for household plants to increase the nutrients available to them. Vermicompost can be seeped in water to extract the nutrients and then nutrient water can be applied to plants. Vermicompost can also be used as a mulch [30] .

Troubleshooting[ edit ] A vermicomposter should require little maintenance, but problems can arise. Consult the following table for troubles. Remember that worms will want to stay in the bin if conditions are right for them. If worms are trying to escape conditions in the composter should be altered. Problem Good[ edit ] Fig 8. Vermicompost ready to be applied to plants as fertilizer Easy access to nutrient rich compost could have very large impacts on families, especially in developing countries. With access to vermicompost, families have access to nutrient rich fertilizer that will promote better plant growth in family gardens. Vermicompost will also make it easier for families to grow gardens because of its beneficial properties. Family gardening provides families with food security and better food nutrition. Food security increases because families have direct access to food that can be harvested on a daily basis. Nutrition of the family increases because plants are more nutritious due to the vermicompost [32] . With earth population recently reaching 7 million and continuing to rise, a large problem is feeding all of these people with a limited amount of agricultural land. Because of this problem, urban gardening is becoming ever more important.

In Kibera, Nairobi, urban gardening has been shown to increase nutrition and also increase family income by money generated from selling excess produce. Families have been able to increase their income by 5-6 USD per week [33] . Vermiculture is an easily made fertilizer that could be used in urban agriculture to boost nutrition and crop yields, potentially increasing family income.A study done showed that in India and other locations, vermiculture and vermicompost have the potential of completely replacing chemical fertilizers [34] . This could have a large impact because much of today’s synthetic fertilizers are made using large amounts of fossil fuels. A large impact that vermicomposting can have is reducing the amount of organic waste that is sent to landfills each year. An Australian statistic states that about two thirds (62%) of all waste landfilled in 06-07 in Australia was organic waste [35] . With vermiculture, much of this waste can be composted and turned into vermicompost. This has the potential to increase the longevity of landfills and reduce the costs associated with handling municipal solid waste.

Bad[ edit ] One of the bad things about vermiculture is that it may introduce earthworms where they are not a native species. This may cause problems that are similar to the earthworm invading Northern hardwood Forests of the United States. To avoid this, worms do not like extreme temperatures or conditions. Thus, if living in a cold climate, worms can be killed by freezing them over winter. Worms can also be killed in a hot climate by heating up the compost in the sun or drying out the compost. The worms will dry out and die if moisture is not adequate. Ultimately, worms will want to be conserved and given to neighbors for use. Dissemination[ edit ] There is a plethora of information regarding vermicomposting on the internet, in magazines, and in books. Cities are holding events where they teach citizens about vermicomposting and its benefits because it can reduce the amount of waste that ends up in the landfill, thus reducing the costs that are associated with trucking and moving the waste. Ultimately this saves the city money, but it is better for the environment as well. This technology is mostly being implemented and used in developed countries on a household scale.

Vermicomposting has the most potential in developing countries because of the benefits that are associated with vermicomposting. Below is a list of links to more information about vermiculture for further reference. Worm Farming: How to Start a Worm Farm: Learn About Vermiculture and Vermicomposting - Kindle edition by Danny Gansneder, Duel City Books. Crafts, Hobbies & Home Kindle eBooks @ Amazon.com. By KEITH A BONDAUG on December 12, 2015 Format: Paperback Verified Purchase I thought this would be a valuable tool in my adventures in worm farming, but it is nothing but a super brief (it took me a total of maybe 40 minutes max, most likely because I spent more time frustrated about the grammatical errors, looking for some type of scientific reference, and being appalled at the brevity and superficial statements, which were being repeated over and over again). I'm sure this was a labor of love for the author, but not very helpful for someone who actually wants to start a worm farm, like myself. There are much better resources online than in this "pamphlet".

There's a total of 41 unnumbered pages, with a total of 3 black and white photos, which were not even relevant to the content. Your $10 would be better spent as worm bedding. Vermiculture: Worm Farming | BoomerPreps Vermiculture is worm farming – you could even call it worm growing. This process of farming worms has many benefits. In addition to reducing the amount of waste your household throws away, it is also very beneficial for your garden. Here is what you need to know to get started: What is Vermiculture? Vermiculture is the process of farming worms as a way of making very nutrient-rich compost. Worms eat organic waste (household food leftovers) and then excrete this waste as organic fertilizer known as worm castings. To farm worms you need to first set up a Vermiculture bin. An easy option for this is a plastic box with a lid that can be purchased from most hardware stores. The box should be opaque as worms are very sensitive to light and can die if they are unable to escape from it. Bedding for the worms can be made of ripped up newspaper or cardboard. This provides a suitable living habitat for the worms but they can also eat this too.

You will need to ensure it is moist before placing it in the worm bin. You can then add food waste to the bin ready for the worms to eat and turn into fertilizer. Air holes should be drilled into the bin to ensure sufficient oxygen flow occurs inside. How does it work? Once you have your worm bin set up and worms have been added, simply feed your worms your food waste. The worms will chew on the waste before digesting it. At the end of this digestion process the worms produce their castings which are used as fertilizer. What worms are needed? Generally there are two types of worms to choose from for Vermiculture. They are either Red Wigglers (Eisenia foetida) or Red Earthworms (Lumbricus rubellus). The two types are difficult to tell apart and will usually be found living together. These worms can be purchased online or from fishing shops as they can also be used as bait. What can be fed to the worms? Worms will eat most organic waste. This includes: fruit and vegetable peelings, tea bags, ground coffee, egg shells and most meal leftovers. Pretty much anything you would put in a normal compost pile; you can feed to the worms.

It is worth remembering that – just like a conventional compost pile – meat leftovers, dairy products and other similar foods attract flies and are more difficult for the worms to eat. Worms do not have teeth so they appreciate softer, easier to swallow foods. What by products come out of Vermiculture? The three main nutrients that plants need to be able to grow and stay healthy are Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium. This is the N-P-K ratio. These can be found naturally in soil but plants need such large quantities of these that a fertilizer is normally needed. A lot of the time these nutrients will be in the soil in a form that cannot be readily used by plants. If you know which nutrient is lacking in your natural soil you can feed your worm’s different food waste to increase that nutrient in the castings. To produce castings with high nitrogen content then foods like tea grounds, coffee grounds and greens should be fed to your worms. To produce castings with high phosphorous content – feed your worms’ oats, tea leaves and similar. If high Potassium content is needed then the ideal foods for worms are things like banana and potato peels. Worm castings have higher nutrient levels than normal soil.

Nitrogen levels can be as much as nine times higher. Normally in worm castings, the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium is 2:1:1 although as mentioned, the worms’ diet can affect this ratio. How can the fertilizer be used? Vermiculture fertilizer is most effective when added to plants at root level. Once the plants have established, dig down to root level and add the fertilizer. You can also use it for seed planting – dig down and place it at root taking level ready for when the plant grows. You can also make “worm tea”. Simply place 1 part fertilizer in 3 parts water and allow it to soak for 12 – 24 hours. Give it a stir and then use this to water plants as normal.

Question: Vermiculture is the farming of what?
Answer: Worms