Brogues Shoe & Wingtip Guide for Men — Gentleman's Gazette Maftei Full Brogue Oxford in tan with steel tips side view by Claymoorslist Oxford or Derby Many people confuse the term Oxford with Brogue. Of course, we use the term Oxford in the traditional sense, which is characterized by its lacing system or to be specific: by the shoelace eyelets that are attached under the vamp. This is also called ‘closed lacing.’ On the other hand, a Derby has ‘open lacing’ where the eyelets are attached to the top of the vamp. Derby Alfonso full brogue ankle boot in green nubuck leather by Scarosso A detailed description of Oxford and Derby shoe is beyond the scope of this article, however, suffice to say that while initially Oxfords were plain formal shoes, they subsequently evolved into a range of styles both formal and casual. Some of these styles feature broguing or perforations along the edges of the individual leather pieces and thus can be called Brogues. To sum it up: Oxfords are not always Brogues though they sometimes are and Brogues are not always Oxfords though some of them can be.

It is the lacing system and the absence or presence of broguing that is the differentiating feature. Wholecut with side gussets by George Cleverly with punched broguing Origins of Brogues The Brogue was originally designed in Scotland and Ireland as a shoe suitable for wearing while working outdoors. The Irish and Scottish countryside is wet and characterized by bogs that made life very difficult for the people who worked there and, as was expected, their feet took a beating. The need of the hour was a pair of shoes that were suitable for this type of work and terrain. The original Brogues were rudimentary shoes made with untanned animal hide; their distinctive feature was a series of perforations and serrations (broguing) of each piece of leather that was used in their construction. The purpose of these perforations was to allow water to drain from the shoes. Another feature of their design was that they were laced by leather tangs and did not have the tongue as in other shoes; they also had high lacing that wrapped above the ankles. This design feature kept the laces free from muck and dirt and prevented the shoes from being sucked off while walking in the mud.

This basic design is now known as the ‘ghillie brogue’ and is often considered the standard style for traditional Scottish dress footwear. Brogue Characteristics & Styles Listing the characteristics of the Brogue is a daunting task as it is a very versatile shoe and comes in various shapes. However, for the sake of convenience, the basic characteristics you will find in most brogues are as follows (not all brogues may have all these basic characteristics): Low heels The presence of heel caps. The presence of lace panels. The presence of Broguing or (now) decorative perforations. Various designs have evolved over time, and so subcategories of brogues were created. Full Brogue by Grenson In case you shop at amazon and we refer you, prices are the same as normal, we just get a small commission. 1. Full brogues or Wingtips – these have a pointed toe cap with extensions called wingtip that extends along both sides of the shoe and usually ends near the ball of the foot. When seen from above the cap is shaped like a ‘W’ or ‘M’ depending on the viewpoint.

It features broguing along its edges as well as decorative broguing in the center of the toe cap, which is called Medallion. There are a few variations to this style. Wingtip toe cap with broguing only on the edges and without Medallion are called blind brogues. Spectator shoes are full brogues or wingtips in two contrasting colors. Usually, the toe and heel caps and sometimes the lace panels are in a darker color than the main body of the shoe. Typically the main body of the shoe is made of white or off white leather or canvas fabric, but lately, all kinds of materials, colors, and textures have been utilized including tweed . Longwing brogues differ from full brogues or wingtips in that the wings extend along the full length of the shoe and meet at a center seam at the heel. Sometimes they are referred to as ‘English brogues’ in the US and as ‘American brogues’ in the UK. Most of the time longwing brogues are made as a derby, but Oxford longwing brogues exist.

Wingtip toe cap without any broguing (either along the edge of the toe cap or in its center) is called an austerity brogue even though technically it cannot be called a brogue due to the complete absence of any broguing. 2. Semi or Half brogues – these have a toe cap without extensions or wings and feature broguing both along the cap’s edge and sides and have a medallion. This style was first designed by the famous London shoemakers John Lobb Ltd in 1937. Today, you will find many variations of the semi brogue, including V cap, cap without medallion, and a second, recessed piece of brogued leather behind the cap. Crockett & Jones Belgrave half quarter brogue 3. Quarter brogues – like the semi or half brogues these have toe caps without points and extensions or wings. However, they differ from the semi or half brogues in that they have broguing only along the caps edge and not anywhere else and feature no medallion. Ghillie Brogue in brown by Crockett & Jones 4.

Ghillie brogues – the standard style for traditional formal Scottish dress footwear (including evening dress in black) is a Full brogue or wingtip but differs from them in that they do not have a tongue and have long laces that that wrap around the legs above the ankle and are tied below the calf. 5. Modern variations – of course you will find all kinds of modifications of these classic styles. One of the more popular variations is the U-cap or U-tip which is a an adaptation of a full brogue. Brogues also feature a variety of closure styles or lacing systems, however, these are not defining characteristics of a brogue except in the case of the Ghillie brogue. Some of the common closure styles available are laced Oxfords (closed lacing system) , Derby (open lacing system), Monk straps (both double and single), slip on system (with or without elastic), loafers , and even boots (with or without laces). Brogue Style Advice Brogues were originally designed for outdoor wear and were worn by the working class predominantly in Scotland and Ireland. Slowly over time they were used by country gentlemen as an outdoor country walking shoe.

It is because of these very roots that they were not considered appropriate wear for other social or business occasions during that time. However, things changed in the twentieth century when the brogue was used as a template for fashionable women’s footwear. The perforations or broguing were now used solely for decorative purposes. Famous celebrity women such as the actresses Marlene Dietrich and Katherine Hepburn incorporated it into their signature style of daring masculine fashion choices. The model Twiggy also favoured the shoe, reportedly made by George Cleverly after she challenged him to design her pair of flat shoes. All this led to a rise in its popularity. Due to this influence, perceptions began to change and slowly the brogue began to be considered appropriate wear, even for men for most occasions both social and business. Twiggy in George Cleverly spectator full brogues By the 1920’s, brogues were extremely popular with men, especially in the United States but also in England and continental Europe the brogue was now an integral part of one’s show wardrobe. Famous men like Fred Astaire, Gary Cooper, or Cary Grant all brogue shoes regularly.

How to Wear Brogues Even today, a full brogue would formally not be considered the proper shoe to wear with a three-piece pin-stripe suit, whereas a quarter brogue in black or oxblood is a perfect business shoe. As a rule of thumb, always bear in mind that a shoe is less formal the more broguing it has and vice versa. As such, full brogues are perfect when combined with anything related to country attire, and semi brogues in a darker brown color are very versatile and can be worn with tweed as well as casual worsted sports coats and brown suits. Even though Prince William committed this faux pas , brogues are never appropriate for Black Tie or white tie events, unless you wear black ghillie brogues the Scottish Highland dress, and I’d also shy away to wear them with dark three-piece business suits. When worn as a dress shoe with a suit, it is better to opt for either half brogues or quarter brogues as they are not too elaborate and maintain the formality of the outfit. A full brogue is mostly too casual for a worsted suit but will work with tweed or other country fabrics.

On other semi–formal occasions where a suit is not required and where a blazer or a sports coat will suffice the wingtip or muted spectator makes for an ideal choice. It maintains just the right amount of formality and casualness. In a casual setting , he brogue can be paired with jeans, chinos , and most other casual trousers. Brogues come in a variety of colors with the classic colors being brown and black. Of course, there are endless shades of brown but personally I also like oxblood very much and even navy or dark green will work well as brogues. And these are the safe choices when it comes to wearing them for formal occasions. Spectator shoes are not everybody’s cup of tea and can be difficult to pull off. I like to pair my brown white spectators with light colored or brown trousers while others prefer to wear them on the golf course only. If you have confidence in your style you can wear them anywhere you want – except for formal occasions of course. The basic rules for matching shoes colors with the rest of your outfit apply here as well. While most brogues are made of boxcalf leather, they are available in suede, scotch grain, and all kinds of other leathers.

Ideally you should opt for smooth or at least uniform leathers to make the broguing shine. For example ostrich brogues or stingray are so dominant that a brogue shoe would look simply horrid. Most brogues you see will be the traditional kind of regular or symmetrical hole perforations. However, in recent years I have also seen more creative broguing such as shotgun or buck shot brogues that look a bit like somebody fired a shotgun onto the leather. So, if you are more inclined to go fashion forward this could be an interesting way to combine the classic look. While I have seen some men wear brogues with shorts , I have to confess that I am not a fan of this look at all. For me brogues work especially well with Blazers , Hacking Jackets , sports coats, casual suits in lighter colors and tweed or even a Harrington jacket . Every man should have at least one pair of brogue shoes and once you increase the number of shoes in your collection, probably half of your shoes or more will have some sort of broguing.

If versatility is your goal, the oxblood semi brogue is probably the way to go but a chestnut brown will also work with many outfits. Of course, if you work at a bank, law firm, or a similar white collar job, go with black quarter brogues. If you are kind of in between, suede full or half brogue in various shades of brown are appropriate. For country boots, I like tan but I also half full brogue boots in oxblood cordovan. Buying Brogues It would be impossible to list all manufacturers of brogues and even if I would narrow it down to 50 or 100 companies that produce quality footwear, it would still be difficult. In the future, we will publish another guide on how to purchase quality footwear in general, which will also apply to brogues. With this general guide on brogues, you should be able to find brogue footwear that fits your style and suits your needs. What are your favorite brogues and why? This guide was created by Sven Raphael Schneider & Vikram Nanjappa.

Footwear of the Middle Ages - General Glossary of Shoe Types General Glossary of Shoe Types Just as a note, there is often a wide divergence between the terms used by modern shoemakers and the terms used by modern archeologists and calceolgists. We know very few of the terms used by medieval shoemakers, and fewer still those terms used by English shoemakers (since this document is in English). Therefore, most of these terms will be modern. Those that are medieval shoemaking terms will be noted in italics. Modern shoemaking jargon terms will be in bold face, and given preference. Terms that are not documentably medieval, but likely are, will be given in bold faced italics. Modern archeological jargon terms will be underlined (Please try not to confuse these with hyperlinks, which are also underlined). Specific sources will be named in [brackets]. Many of the shoes discussed below are not medieval, but may be indicative of a type. General Glossary of Footwear Types Albert A men's slipper style with a tongue like extension of the upper over the instep. [ Alpargata A type of sandal made from woven cord.

It has a shaped sole and attached straps. It is worn in France, Spain and Italy. Ankle shoe (Ankle Boot) An item of footwear, and a subset of "boot", where the top is approximately on the ankle joint, or extends just above the ankle. Basan (Other medieval spellings include: Basĕn, Baseyn, Basan(n)e, Basyn, Bazan, Bazen(n)e) The word�s earliest appearance seems to be about 1300, although at least one source has suggested that it was also used for a style of Anglo-Norman riding boot worn by the clergy. Batts A type of shoe, generally popular with women in the 17th and 18th century. It resembled the heavier men's "Blackjack" shoe with latchets tied or buckled over the tongue. "Blackjack" A type of Oxford shoe, made from Jack Leather, with latchets tied or buckled over the tongue.

(May not be a correct name) Boot, Bote (Other medieval spellings include: Bat, Bate, But, Bute, Buyt, Latin: Bota/Botarum, Ocrea) A family of types of footwear extending above the ankle, and may end just above the ankle, calf length, knee high, or thigh high. Cokers and hueses are probably types of botes. A bote may lack any closure, or may be laced, buckled or buttoned. Based on documentary evidence and illustrations, botes were worn by laborers, hunters or riders. This may also refer to a type of legging, or leather hose. An item of footwear, the leg of which extends at least to, or above, the ankle joint, and may be an ankle boot, calf, knee or thigh boot.[Thornton/Swann, 1983] [Webber, 1989] [Grew/deNeergaard, 1988] A closed form of footwear reaching over the ankle or higher, and lacking a fastening opening, fastening or closure.

[Goubitz, 2001] A covering for the foot and lower part of the leg, usually of leather. (Distinguished from a SHOE by extending above the ankle. In earlier times used only by riders.) [OED] Boot, Demi Chase A low, sturdy shoe for country wear, of Scottish/Irish extraction. Originally a hobnailed "Carbatine". Budapest A well-known full-brogue Derby style of shoe with a high toe cap. [Vass] Buskin Buskin is a 16th century word for a type of soft leather boot reaching the calf or knee, or perhaps a shorter laced boot, possibly deriving from the 15th century brodeguin. Starting in the 16th century, historians started referring other footwear, such as the ancient Greek cothurnus/corthurnus/korthornos, as "buskins" because they vaguely look like Buskins, leading to much confusion about what a buskin really is. It has also been, used to refer to low stockings and hose of leather, linen, silk, or embroidered and brocaded fabrics. See also Socc.

Calc (Latin: Calciamenta) An Anglo Saxon term for a form of sandal [Owen-Crocker]. Caligae In the Middle Ages this referred to a type of clerical footwear. Historically the name derived from the Roman Caligae, the boots worn by 1st century Roman soldiers. Calopedes A Latin term for wooden soled shoes. See Pattens. Also, this may refer to a sort of Anglo Saxon era clerical footwear, possibly because they had wooden soles. Carbatine (Karbatine?) One-piece shoes with soles and uppers cut from a single piece of leather. The edges were cut into loops through which a lacing pulled the uppers together. A center seam shoe made from a single piece of leather with a single sole and an openwork upper fastened by a lace. This general type of shoe was among the earliest of shoes among the Greeks, Romans and early Celtic peoples. It continued to be worn well into the Middle Ages into 1000 CE, and in certain areas was worn into the 20th century. Examples include the earlier "brogue", and the rivelins, pampooties, and opankes.

The term "Carbatina" appears in Catullus 98 (97) 4 "possis culos et crepidas lingere carpatinas...". Lewis and Short describes it as equivalent to the Greek "karbat�ne", "a kind of rustic leather shoe"; Follet defines it as "shoes of undressed leather, brogues, mocassins." Xenophon: "some whose shoes had worn out had made themselves karbatinai (gen. fem pl.) out of fresh flayed oxhide", or undressed "raw" hide. Hesychius refers to Karbatina (gen. neu. pl) as "a rustic's footwear of one layer of leather". Pollux claims the term refers to the Carians. It is an adjective, Karbatinos /Karbatina /Karbatinon, that simply means "made of leather". (My thanks to Bambi Wimett, Brian O'Donnell, Heather Rose Jones and Judy Gerjouy, for their help here).

Chaucer (Other medieval spellings include: Chauceor, Chaude-pis, Chaude-pisse, Chau-pis, Chau-pisse, Chauser, Chausses, Chausure) Leggings or hose of leather or maille. They are possibly related to hueses. Chopines (Other medieval spelling includes: Shopines) High, cork soled shoes in the 16th century. These developed into the pantofle. The really exaggerated styles were not seen in England. Clog (Clogge) "A countryman's shoe". Wooden soled shoe, or more specifically a wooden sole with a leather upper nailed to it. A wooden or wooden-soled shoe, boot or overshoe. 17th-18th century clog overshoes had only a wedge of wood. [Thornton/Swann, 1983] In the Middle Ages, this referred to a type of overshoe with a wooden sole held on by straps. See also Pattens.

In the 18th century and later, this referred to a woman's overshoe made from leather or cloth with a covered-cork block built up to support the waist of the shoe worn inside [Saguto] A wooden shoe. Coker (Other medieval spellings include: Cokyr, Cocur, Cuker, Quequer, Latin: Cocurus, Coturnus, Ocrea) This term refers to a short laced boot, or a laced legging worn by farmers, hunters, fishermen to protect the legs. [Promptorium Parvalorum] In later terms this seems to be what developes into the High/Low. Other authors want to refer to revelins as cokers. Corked shoes Shoes made with any sort of cork sole. Cowmouth (See Solleret). An Anglo Saxon term for a form of sandal [Owen-Crocker]. Derby An open-laced style of shoe widespread in Europe, often double stitched and double soled. Also known as "Bluchers." the most common variants are plain, full-brogues, and semi-brogues.

[Vass] Eared Shoe In the 16th century following a long period of pointed shoes, toes became very square and wide; for a short time, c.1535-55, the corners of the toe were extended sideways resembling ears. Espadrille (Scarpetti) A shoe made with a sole of braided cord or rope, with canvas uppers. It is worn in Italy, France and Spain. The Scarpetti is a shoe worn for rock climbing. Estivaux (Aestivales) Apparently a type of boots made from expensive fabric in the Anglo Norman period. Full-brogue A type of shoe decorated with perforated patterns, with winged toe caps and rows of perforations. [Vass] Galoshes (Galliochios, "Gaulish Shoes", Galegge, Galoch). See Overshoe. In medieval parlance, a clog or patten. Wooden-soled shoes with leather straps intended to protect shoes from rough stone pavements. Worn in one form or another from the Roman era until the American Colonial Era. In Latin, Calopodla.

Gamashe (Other medieval spellings include: Gamash, Gamachio, Gamache) A kind of legging of cloth, worn to protect the legs from mud, dirt and wet. Golfing shoes Sports shoes that are often handmade. The top sole is fitted with nine to eleven spikes for increased stability on grass covered ground. [Vass] Half-brogue See semi-brogue. High Shoe (Other medieval spellings include: Heigh Scoh, Scoh, Unhege-Sceo Modern terms include: Ankle Boot, Ankle Shoe, Half boot) A shoe that extends to the ankle, or slightly higher. There is no way to be more specific between the high shoe and low boot, as the medieval meaning are not clear. Hueses (Hauses, Husseaus) A kind of legging or hose. Also possibly boots that reach the thigh. They can have pikes, and so may be footed hose with leather soles. They are possibly related to chaucers.

Leggings (Chauses, Gaiters, Gamashes, Hueses(?), Splatterdashes, Spats) Leg coverings of leather or cloth stretching up from the feet (to the waist), with a strap passing under the shoe. There are pictures of medieval peasants wearing what look very much like WWI & II canvas army leggings. Loafer Moccasin (Hudsko or Hide shoe) See Rivelin. Monk A puritanical-looking shoe, as its name suggests. Its most striking feature is the fact that its quarters are fastened together with a buckle, or even two, and it is often richly decorated. It owes its elegance to its long vamp. [Vass] Mukluk An Inuit term denoting a soft leather, heeless shoe with a fabric legging attached. The lower portion is often made from Sealskin or Walrus hide, while the leggings are made of canvas. Mule Moyle. Slippers made with no heel or heel counters. Muleus Opanke The term originates from a Serbian word for a shoe, worn by the rural population, with a hard molded sole turned up all around the edge forming part of the upper.

The European Opanke can have a center front and/or back seam in the bottom unit. The Native American shoe referred to by anthropologists as an Opanke has no seams in the bottom unit and a soft upper which is attached to it. [Thornton/Swann, 1983][Webber, 1989] Overshoes Today these are usually rubber galoshes, or some other form of shoe meant to be worn over other shoes, meant to protect them from the elements. Oxford An esthetically elegant style with closed lacing. It typically comes in plain, full-brogue, and semi-brogue versions.

[Vass] Pantofle (also Pantoble) A post-medieval term for a slipper or a raised overshoe Patten (Other medieval terms include Clog, Clogge, Galache, Galoch, Galosh, Golosh, Galoche, Galegge, Galliochios, Galloche, Gaulish Shoes, Paten, Patyn, Trippe Latin: Calopodla,Calopedes, Callopedium, Crepitum, Crepita) These are all names for a variety of overshoes, made with wood, leather, or cork platform soles, sometimes with bits of metal on the bottoms, intended to protect the shoes from wet, cold, mud and pavement. They remained in use in one form or another until the American Colonial period. Some items seen currently thought of as Patens may in fact be sandals. Pegged shoe (Pegged boot) Leather shoes with the sole fastened to the upper by wooden pegs. Penny Loafer See slip-on Pinson (Other medieval spellings include: Caffignon, Pinsone, Pin�on, Pinsion, Pisnet, Puisnet, Pynson, Sokke.

Latin: Pedipomita, possibly Calceolus, Calceamesa Calceamen Pedibomita Pedribriomita) A kind of thin shoe, slipper or pump. Although they appear in the literature from 1350 to around 1600, there is no clear contemporary description of them. It maybe assumed that they are a slip on shoe held in place by fit, rather than any fastenings. Pisnet A type of shoe Polony fashion (Belone, Palony) The term first appears in England in 1601, in the notes of Queen Elizabeth's shoemakers, apparently making a reference to the Polish design of stacked leather heels. Poulaine See Crakowe. The poulaine is technically the point or pike of the shoe. Pump A light, low-cut turn-shoe, first mentioned in the 16th Century, thin soled, shoe without any lacing, straps or a heel, or later a very low heel. It often had no fastening and was kept in place by the close fit. They were worn principally by footmen.

The term remains until the 19th century when it dies out, only to be used in the 20th century for a similar style of heeled woman�s shoe. Quatre-Foil Spur Leathers These large leather pieces were worn in the 17th century by Cavaliers intending to hide their spur fastenings. They bore a resemblance to a flattened four leaf clover. Revelin (Brogue, Carbat�ne, Hudsko, Kreplau, Llopan, Moccasin, Opanke, Pampootie, Pedules,Rewylynys, Rifeling, Rivelins, Rivilin, Riwelingas, Rowlingas, Rullions, Rulyions, Skin-sko) Culponius, Peronatus�Carpatin� An easily made single piece shoe, worn by the lowest ranks of rural population, with the sole turned up all around the edge forming part of the overleather. The edges were cut into loops through which a lacing pulled the sides together. Frequently of undressed or untanned hide, this general type of shoe was among the earliest of shoes among the Greeks, Romans and early Celtic peoples.

It probably continued to be worn through the Middle Ages, although there are no examples. In certain areas these were worn regularly well into the 20th century (and even to the present time as traditional folk costume). Note that while the terms appear interchangeable, the actual shoe designs can be different in details. Sabot (Wooden Shoe, Klompen) A shoe style with no laces or buckles, into which the wearer simply slips his foot (also called a loafer). Its forebear is the Indian moccasin. Today slip-ons also exist in welt-stitched form. One of these is the Penny Loafer, where the tongue is covered by a leather cross-strap under which wearers used to place a one-penny coin. [Vass] Slipper (Other early medieval spellings include: Slebescoh, Slipshoe, Slypesco, Slype-sceo, Slypesco, Staeppescoh, Swiftlere) A low cut shoe that can be slipped on, and has no means of fastening.

A cheap, low shoe meant to be worn indoors Sokke (Other medieval spelling includes: Socc Latin: Soccus) An Anglo Saxon term for a simple slipper consisting of a light overleather and sole, possibly synonymous with slebescoh or slypesco, as well as being callicula and gallicula, both terms apparently derived from the Roman caligae. [Owen-Crocker]. It is possible that this was because of the visual similarity of the general construction of the Caligae to the Carbatine (the former having an attached outsole, the latter, not). Soller An Anglo Norman term for shoes in general or a particular type of shoe. The term likely derived from the French soulier. Solleret Armored footwear made up of lames or plates. The term appears to have been used in English around 1826. See also Broad Toed Shoes. Sotulares (Latin: Sotularium) Shoes, may also refer to inexpensive shoes, and possibly clerical shoes.

May be synonymous with the subtalaris, or may refer to high shoes Sotulares Veteres A medieval Latin term referring to old, patched or remade shoes, deriving from the Classical Latin veterementarius, or cobbler. Staeppescoh (L. Subtaleris) A later than 8th century Anglo-Saxon term for slipper [Owen-Crocker]. Tibracis An Anglo Saxon term for a form of leather boot [Owen-Crocker]. Unhege-Sceo See High Shoe. Although this meaning seems traditional, it is somewhat speculative, since there is no clear link to the High shoes. Sceo seems to be an older academic form for scoh. The term is Anglo-Saxon/Old English. Winter Shoes This term refers to a specific, non-ecclesiastical shoe with a cork filled sole. There are a very few examples of these from the 14th and 15th centuries. Return to Contents or [Back] Footwear of the Middle Ages - General Glossary of Shoe Types, Copyright � 1999, 2000, 2001, 2005 I. Marc Carlson.

This page is given for the free exchange of information, provided the author's name is included in all future revisions, and no money change hands, other than as expressed in the Copyright Page . Glossary of Shoe Terms | Wingtip SALE Glossary of Shoe Terms We find that buying shoes online can be complicated. Reading online shoe descriptions can sometimes make a shoe that would (without all the fancy, indecipherable shoe-talk) otherwise appear as a pair that 'you like and want' into a 'a pinked split toe'. A pinked split toe? But it looks black ... and 'square'. But once you know the lingo, these descriptions—which you'd be hard-pressed to get from many department store shoe salespersons—can become invaluable ways of really coming to understand you personal footwear preferences and can help ensure that you consistently find the shoes that best fit your style and your foot. This glossary is hardly exhaustive, and some terms may never appear on our site, but it includes nearly all of the terms that we could collectively muster and it should help you in most all circumstances. A Aglet-- A metal or plastic tag at the end of a shoelace. The aglet makes lacing easier and it protects the lace from unraveling.

Historically, the aglet took a more ornamental form than it does today. Algonquin Toe --Named after the Algonquin Indian tribe for having designed it in the eighteenth century, the 'Algonquin Toe' (also referred to as the Split Toe) is constructed by joining two pieces of leather together at the 'vamp' and 'welt' of the shoe. Apron Toe -- Unlike many shoe terms, an Apron Toe is actually what it sounds like. It can be recognized by the visible edges or stitching that finishes off the toe and forms a sort of apron along the shoe's front. B Balmorals -- Balmorals (or 'Bals') are typically ankle-high, front-laced shoes, wherein the bottom of the shoe's lacing is sewn to the front of the shoes throat, creating a closed 'V' shape at the bottom of the lacing. When tied, the Balmoral's tongue is completely concealed, except for its tip. It is said that this style received its name and popularity after Prince Albert was seen wearing such a shoe during an extended holiday at the Balmoral castle.

Bespoke -- A truly bespoke shoe is made on a last that has been custom-made for an individual, rather than one of the standard lasts that used for 99.999% of the shoes in the world. In addition, a bespoke shoe customer gets to choose most every detail of construction, from major choices like the leather to details like heel type. Bluchers -- Bluchers are typically ankle-legnth, front-laced shoes, wherein the bottom of the shoe's lacing is left unattached to the shoe's throat (unlike a Balmoral). It's typically easier to adjust the fit of a Blucher since the shoe's side flaps can be easily loosened or tightened across its tongue (which is usually just an extension of the vamp of the shoe, versus a separate piece of leather). Bluchers were named after the Prussian field marshal Gebhard Leberecht von BlÃ¼cher, Prince of Wahlstadt (1742-1819) who famously ordered such shoes for all of his soldiers. Blucher Toe -- A Blucher toe is typically described as 'an Apron Toe in reverse', as the toe's overlay in tuned-in to create a smooth 'apron-less' look.

Boat Shoe -- A kind of casual shoe that can normally be slipped on and worn with or without socks. Boat shoes are typically made with non-slip soles (so as to avoid slipping on a wet boat deck) and they are often featured ornamental side-lacings. Boot -- Any shoe that comes above the ankle. Boots can be formal or casual, and are often quite utilitarian in their design and are associated with certain trades or leisure activites -- such as steel-toe construction boots, or motorcycle boots. Brogue -- A 'heavy' balmoral, or oxford-style shoe that flaunts ample 'pinking' (perforations or zig-zag detailing) and 'perforations' in order to accentuate the look of the shoe's seams. Brogueing -- A term that refers to the perforations or small punches that can be used to decorate a shoe. All those holes on a wingtip? That's brogueing. C Calfskin -- A famously soft leather made (as the word suggests) from the skins of calfs. Cap Toe -- Common in dress shoes, a cap toe can be quickly identified by the straight line of stitches or punches across the shoe's toe.

Chelsea Boot -- Popularized in England during the 1960s (purportedly due to the Beatles' fondness for the style) and also referred to as a 'Jodhpur Boot'. It is a slip-on, heeled, ankle-heigh boot most easily identified by the elastic side panels that reach from the shoe's heel to its top. Collar -- The material sewn into the opening, or the topline, of the shoe. The collar can be padded to provide increased support or comfort. Counter -- A stiff piece of material (typically leather) used to maintain a shoe's shape, and which is inserted between the shoe's lining and upper materials. Crepe Sole -- A kind of sole typically cast from rubber and made to resemble the texture of wrinkled crepe paper. These soles are almost exclusively seen on casual shoes. Croc Embossed -- Leather that is typically made from cow skin, but which has been made to resemble crocodile skin through stamping a pattern similar to crocodile skin into the leather and then giving the leather a high-shine. Cuban Heel -- Derby -- A term sometimes used to describe shoes that features 'Blucher' style lacing.

E Elastic Gore -- An flexible, elastic fabric that is sewn into the shoe's lining in order to provide a snug fit. F Footbed -- A term sometimes used to denote a shoe's insole. French Binding -- A way of detailing a shoe's 'topline' by sewing, or binding, an additional strip of material along the shoe's topmost edge. This style of finishing is often produced with a contrasting material from the rest of the shoe's upper. Full Grain Leather -- Leather that has been tanned so that the a natural texture, or grain, of the animal skin is visible. G H Haircalf -- A kind of calfskin leather which maintains the calf hide's soft furry texture. Heel --The part of shoe that is attached under the heel of foot, and which varies in height and material according to the style of the shoe. In dress shoes, the heel is often fabricated separately from the shoe's sole. I Insole -- The inner sole of the shoe, which is often cushioned for comfort or molded for orthopedic reasons. Instep -- The area of the foot between the toes and the ankle, or the top front part of a shoe J Jodhpur Boot -- See 'Chelsea Boot'.

K Kid Leather -- Leather made from goat skin. L Lapped Seam --Created when two pieces of material are attached by being sewn together, one on top of the other. Last -- The wooden block around which a shoe is formed. The last represents the shape and size of the intended wearer's foot. Last's can be standard sizes or bespoke. Lasting Margin -- The section of the upper that is tucked under and attached to the shoe's sole. Lift -- Please see 'Heel'. Loafers -- Also referred to as Moccasins, they are slip-on shoes noted for their comfort. The shoe's construction tends to be simple and 'roomy'. Louis Heel -- Developed in the seventeenth century, it is a heel fashioned from an extension of the shoe's sole. M Medallion -- The ornamental details that are created by 'perforating,' or brogueing', the toes of dress shoes in varied, but always symmetrical designs. Mersey Boot -- Similar to the Chelsea or Jodhpur boot, but zipped along the side (instead of elasticated) and often fitted with a slightly raised heel.

Monk Strap -- An oxford-style shoe that is fastened with a strap closure, instead of being laced-up. Moc Toe -- Shoes that are fabricated in the simple manner similar to moccasins (or loafers), but which lace-up (instead of simply slipping-on). Moccassin -- Please see 'Loafer'. Motorcycle Boot -- Boots designed with a thicker, more durable sole with motorcycle riding in mind. N Nailed Construction -- Refers to shoes that have their pieces nailed together, instead of sewn. Nappa Leather -- A kind of leather that is noted for its softness and flexibility. Nubuck -- A kind of leather with a slight 'nap' and otherwise smooth finish, which is achieved by 'bucking' (or sanding) the hide. O Outsole -- The bottom-most part of the shoe's sole. Oxfords -- Another term for a Balmoralstyle shoe sometimes used to describe shoes that features 'Balmoral' style lacing. P Perforations -- Small holes punched into the shoe's leather, often on the toe, in order to add ornamental details to dress shoes.

Pinking -- This term refers to thezig-zag, saw-toothed finish found the edge (or seams) of some shoes' components (particularly the toe). Q Quarter Panels -- The side components of the shoe, which run from its heel to its toe. R Rand -- A piece of leather used to even-out the shoe's sole before attaching the heel. Ruched -- More common in women's footwear, it is a kind of finishing detail created by gathering and stitching together material in a pleated, or bunched manner. S Saddle Shoes -- Made famous by catholic school girls and golfers everywhere, the saddle shoe gets its name from the contrasting, darker middle section of the shoe, which is said to resemble a saddle sitting across the back of a horse. Scalloped, Scalloping -- Like pinking, but a wavy cut instead of a jagged, saw-toothed cut. Spectators -- Made popular in the 1920s and 30s by Jazz and Swing musicians, they are a kind of shoe that (like the saddle shoe) is made from contrasting colored materials. Spectators do not have the typical saddle-look of the saddle shoe, however.

Spectators are typically wing tips with toes and upper heels contrasting from the shoe's other components. T Toe Ridge -- A molded ridge found along the top of the footbed in certain sandals. U Upper -- From heel to toe, this term refers to the all the parts of the shoe that cover the top of the foot. V Vamp - This term is used to refer to the front center part of a shoe's upper, in some shoes (like Bluchers) the vamp is extended in order to form the shoe's tongue. Venetian Loafers -- Loafers that lack the ornamentation often found across the middle, or as one source stated 'loafers with nothing to put a penny in'. W Welt -- A strip of leather that is used to sew together the shoe's outsole and its insole and upper. The welt can be made to 'stick-out' from the sole and further ornament the shoe. Wing Tip -- A style of shoe that has a toe that looks like a "W", and which often sports a great deal of pinking.

Question: The term 'brogued' technically refers to a shoe with?
Answer: Perforations