How to Draw a Danio How to Draw a Danio In this quick tutorial you'll learn how to draw a Danio in 7 easy steps - great for kids and novice artists. The images above represents how your finished drawing is going to look and the steps involved. Below are the individual steps - you can click on each one for a High Resolution printable PDF version. At the bottom you can read some interesting facts about the Danio. Make sure you also check out any of the hundreds of drawing tutorials grouped by category. How to Draw a Danio - Step-by-Step Tutorial CLICK IMAGE FOR BIGGER VERSION Step 2: Draw a small line at the tip of the head to make the mouth line. Just behind the mouth draw a round eye. Draw another circle around the eye. Make a squiggly line between the top and bottom head lines to make the gill. CLICK IMAGE FOR BIGGER VERSION Step 5: Now draw the 3 lower fins. The first fin starts just at the end of the bottom head line. It loops around to join up with the bottom of the gill line. The second fin is just to the left of the first fin. It is a triangle shape.

Just to the left of the middle fin is the last fin. It sits below the belly line. CLICK IMAGE FOR BIGGER VERSION Step 6: Now draw the tail by bringing the top body line up to the left and the bottom body line down to the left. Bring those two lines back together so that the tail has a point at the top and one at the bottom. Plants Interesting Facts about the DANIO The Danio is a member of the fish group and the scientific term for them is Danio erythromicron. Danio is an Asian word that means “minnow-like” fish. The Greek word erythro-micron means “red-small” since the description represents the appearance of this fish. There are about a dozen black stripes that have a vertical placement along the entire length of their body. A key feature of this creature is a spot on the tail which appears as an eye, so that predators fail in consuming it by approaching the wrong end that quickly passes. Did you know? This animal was first documented in 1918. This species is almost 1 inch in length. Their lakebed consists of about 40 percent sand, 40 percent silt, and 20 percent clay.

The creature lives at almost 3,000 feet above sea level. Their swimming area was about 300 feet deep. The swimming area is currently almost 10 feet deep. The local human population has helped the fish since the 1300s. Another name for this species is the Emerald Dwarf Rasbora. This animal is in the Cyprinid family, the most common type of fish. The creature is native to Inle Lake of Burma in Southeast Asia. The fish eats algae and zooplankton that feed on the aquatic crops of the people who live there. These animals have a low population amount, and are considered to be endangered to the possibility of extinction. Danios Aquarium Fish For Sale Purple Passion Longfin Zebra Leopard Celestial Pearl Danio Danios Danio Aquarium Fish Danios are a marvelous choice for most aquariums due to their high energy level and mild temperament. These are recommended for 1st-time aquarists, especially children. Danios are hardy fish and are very easy to care for. There are several varieties of the Danios, one of the most commonly known being the Zebra Danio, which is easily recognized by its distinct horizontal stripes.

This particular Danio will grow to be about 1.5 inches in length and is also suitable for community tanks because of its peaceful nature. The Gold, Pearl and Leopard types of Danios will also grow to a maximum size of 1.5 inches, but Giant Danios can grow to about five inches or so in length. Danios will be most comfortable with at least a school of four to six of their own species, more is always better. Imagine at most fish farms these fish are raised in groups of 1000's of just one variety in a single pool. Danios have a variety of suitable tank mates to choose from such as Rainbowfish, Barbs and most types of Gouramis, provided they are smaller than the Danios are. Danios will also do well with a school of Clown or Yoyo Loaches and some varieties of Catfish such as the Cory or the Pleco. Even-tempered Danios are often used in aquariums as peacekeepers, to distract other more aggressive fish from fighting with one another. A busy school of Danios swimming by will usually distract otherwise aggressive fish, ultimately keeping the peace in the tank. Danios have a lifespan of about five years under proper conditions.

Technically considered cold-water fish, Danios will adapt to most water conditions but they do prefer cooler temperatures usually between 64 to 74 degrees F. Danios should also be provided with plenty of light, plants and room to swim about freely. These active fish will thrive in a 10 gallon aquarium or more that is kept at a PH level between 6.5 and 7.0. Giant Danio Danio aequipinnatus Origin: India Family: Cyprinidae Aptly named the Giant Daino, this deep bodied species can reach four inches or ten cm in length, and in nature they can reach even larger sizes than that. The Giant Danio is a very attractive fish with captivating colorations. Its gold spots and lines intensify the blue-green background of this fish. The body is an appealing iridescent gold with steel blue colored spots and stripes running along the body lengthwise from the gills to the tail. In females the stripe bends upwards at the base of their tail, while in males this stripe simply runs straight back, extending through the tail. The fins are pale golden in color and rounded, while the tail fine is forked.

The Giant Danio is the largest of the danios species. Giant Danios should be kept in a group consisting of at least 6 or more fish. It is an excellent schooling fish in larger community aquariums, so it’s recommended that you have other fish in the tank with them. It requires a large aquarium with ample swimming room because it is so active. Rasbora Tropical Fish - Giant Danio <h2><span style="font-family: trebuchet ms; font-size: 14pt;">Giant Danio For Sale<br /></span></h2> <p><span>Danio aequipinnatus</span></p> <p><span>syn: Devario aequipinnatus</span></p> <ul> <li><span>Water Conditions: 72-75 F</span></li> <li><span>KH 8-12</span></li> <li><span>pH 6.0-7.0</span></li> <li><span>Max.

Size: 4"</span></li> <li><span>Diet: Omnivore&nbsp; </span></li> <li><span>Origin: India&nbsp; </span></li> <li><span>Family: Cyprinidae </span></li> </ul> <p><span>Aptly named the Giant Daino, this deep bodied species can reach four inches or ten cm in length, and in nature they can reach even larger sizes than that. </span>The Giant Danio is a very attractive fish with captivating colorations. Its gold spots and lines intensify the blue-green background of this fish.</p> <p><span>The body is an appealing iridescent gold with steel blue colored spots and stripes running along the body lengthwise from the gills to the tail. In females the stripe bends upwards at the base of their tail, while in males this stripe simply runs straight back, extending through the tail. The fins are pale golden in color and rounded, while the tail fine is forked.</span> The Giant Danio is the largest of the danios species.&nbsp;</p> <p>Giant Danios should be kept in a group consisting of at least 6 or more fish.

It is an excellent schooling fish in larger community aquariums, so it&rsquo;s recommended that you have other fish in the tank with them.&nbsp;&nbsp;It requires a large aquarium with ample swimming room because it is so active.&nbsp;</p> $2.66 5 0 About Us Arizona Aquatic Gardens is one of the leading suppliers in the U.S. of farm-raised tropical fish, aquatic plants and niched business for algae eating animals such as Snails, Shrimp & Fish. Buy direct from America's leading aquatic discount company! ... Read More I may have to put my zebra danio down-HELP! I started my first aquarium (freshwater, 55-gal) in January of this year. At that time I had six zebra danios. After a couple of months I saw that this one was getting picked on by two others. They would chase her/him as they do in the morning but it got to the point that this one got skinnier and skinnier and finally just layed at the bottom while the other two nudged her (will use the feminie to keep it simple).

So, I netted her out and put her in a 10-gallon hospital tank. She got bigger and stronger over time. Then, I noticed that her belly turned into a bulge (see picture posted in my "hospital tank" aquarium). I went to my local fish store with a picture in tow (the one featured in my hospital aquarium) and they had me do a couple of things to determine if she was egg bound or if it was a tumor. One was to turn the tank temp up and the other was I think to put in a certain ratio of epson salts. Nothing happened. She has been swimming and eating all these months. For a little more than a week though she lays on her side at the bottom in a corner most of the time. At first I thought she was dead, but she wasn't. When she swims it's circular. She has had a different look to her while she swims because of the big middle even before. I fear she is in a lot of pain. Her eyes seem to bulge some. I have dropped pellots in because they sink to the bottom in case she can eat. I don't know what to do and will appreciate any help.

She just isn't passing away on her own and, again, I fear she is suffering greatly at this point. Now I am a person who only kills moisquitos. Otherwise, any bug in my house gets toted back outside rather than killed. I don't know if I will be able to do it but I think it needs to be done. Please help...:( Attached Images It's hard, but it is the kindest thing to do if you've assessed the situation as being that your fish is going to die. I made the decision to euthanize one of my fish recently. I used clove oil and he went off to sleep and then vodka to make sure he didn't wake back up What Is the Most Humane Way to Euthanize a Fish? . I've seen others of my fish die by themselves after getting sick and it was horrible. I'm glad I helped end my platy's suffering before he had to wait for whatever was wrong with him to finish him off (and I was sure it was going to, he wasn't recovering despite the treatment I was trying). pics of my danio taken this morning Hi and thank you for your care and responses.

I should have mentioned that the first pic posted was from seven or eight months ago. At that time she was eating and responsive. The pics included now I took this morning. This is how she looks all the time for a little more than a week. When she tries to swim it's just circular and she can't seem to get herself more than about a quarter inch up from the gravel. She only stays in that corner of the aquarium. Do you believe I need to put her down or are there any other possibilities/suggestion? Thanks so much for being there for me during this time of trembling. Attached Images I am no expert. I've luckily not had much experience with sick fish, but I've had a couple display signs of being unwell before dying. When I've had a fish do what you are describing it did not recover. I had some optimism about my latest sick fish because he survived some time but even he did not recover. I would not hesitate to euthanize that fish. I don't think she can ever recover when she's sunk on the bottom and cannot swim. If it was my fish, I'd be comfortably 100% certain that I was doing the right thing.

If you really can't bring yourself to do it, let nature take its course this time, but I suggest you buy the supplies so that when you get your next sick fish event you can deal with it. It's taken me a while to get used to the idea that fish will not bounce back when they display signs of illness like that. Once you've seen a couple of fish go like that, you'll hopefully find that you can manage euthanasia after all. As I said before, I feel much better about how my latest platy died than the one before. This is so hard, and I thank you for talking with me I will get the supplies I need tomorrow. This is so hard but because I love my fish, and all of God's creatures, I will do my best to help her move on and out of the misary she must be in. Yikes! I spoke with two people that I work with today who did put a fish down from their aquariums (out of the total of eight that I work with). Anywho, one took some type of knife and just sliced his fish in the middle. The other wrapped his fish in a paper towel and then stomped on it for a quick death. Oooooh.

I understand that this is part of living and loving, but...gulp...:( I just poured in the clove oil mixture...:( Well, this is it. I purchased the clove oil and a fairly good quality vodka yesterday (Three Olives). I hope that the smoother vodka will be kindest on my zebra danio. Personally, I am having a martini at present just because I hope it helps me actually go through with this. What helps most is having you, a community of tropical fish keepers who empathize, offer the best of their knowledge and experience, and care. I thank you. I measured eight ounces of tank water and put it in a clear bowl. Then took a pair of my own black pants and wrapped it around. I netted her an put her in, turned off any bright light I took about three ounces of tank water in a separate jar and put in only one drop of clovce oil, shook it up 'til the water turned cloudy white and poured in only about 25% of it. She swam on her side a few times around the bowl, without any sign of stress in breathing.

All the while I stayed right with my zebra as the clove oil took effect, just saying I love you and that I will not leave her alone through this. She is next to me now. The Celestial Pearl Danio: A Cautionary Tale | Details | Articles | TFH Magazine® The Celestial Pearl Danio: A Cautionary Tale Author: Mike Hellweg Photographer: Gary Lange An exclusive in-depth look at the celestial pearl danio Celestichthys margaritatus, separating fact from fiction about this beautiful new cyprinid, with an illustrated spawning account. In late September of 2006, a photograph began circulating among tropical fish hobbyists on the Internet. It was a shot of a beautiful freshwater fish, almost too beautiful to be real. In fact, many of the first people to see it assumed it had been doctored, figuring that no fish that stunning could have been overlooked by the aquarium hobby for all of these years. In truth, the fish had only been discovered a few weeks earlier in a small plant-laden spring-fed pool in the Southeast Asian nation of Burma.

The area where it was collected had been off-limits to westerners for many years, so it has become the source of several new fish in the past few years. But none of the other newly discovered fish from the area compared to this one—this was definitely something special. If you haven’t guessed it by now, I’m talking about the beautiful miniature fish known in the trade as the ‘‘galaxy rasbora.” It has also been distributed under the trade names of “fireworks rasbora” and “Microrasbora sp. galaxy.” The reason all of these names are in quotes is that exporters were only guessing as to which genus of cyprinids it belonged, because it really didn’t seem to fit exactly within any of the known genera. Why Not Galaxy Rasbora? Scientists agreed that this fish didn’t fit into any known genera, and on February 28, 2007, Tyson R. Roberts of the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute released his formal description of the species, erecting a new genus for it. He also suggested a new common name, since his discovery of a familial relationship between this fish and the danios meant the trade name galaxy rasbora was misleading. Dr.

Roberts coined the common name of celestial pearl danio (CPD) to reflect that the fish are actually danionins, related more closely to the danios than to the rasboras. According to Roberts he coined the generic name Celestichthys from the Latin and Greek words meaning “heavenly fish.” Since the specific name margaritatus means “adorned with pearls,” Celestichthys margaritatus translates to “heavenly fish adorned with pearls.” It’s a great descriptive name, but a bit awkward to use in conversation, hence the name “celestial pearl danio.” A description doesn’t do the fish justice, but I’ll try. Males of the original fish are a deep midnight blue overall, with a series of pearlescent spots over their flanks, sometimes arranged in rows. Their unpaired fins have bright red stripes outlined in midnight blue. The ventral fins are solid red, or are filled with red splotches or spots. The males also show a bright red belly, and dominant males, reminiscent of male rainbowfish, are reported to flash a red stripe on their backs that runs from the top of the head to just before the dorsal fin.

I have not personally witnessed this, but several others have reported it, and I have seen photos of males with this bright red coloration on their backs. I have witnessed courting males adapting a head-down posture that would show this flash to its best, so it seems a likely explanation for this behavior. Females are a bit more washed out, with more of an overall golden blue sheen. The pearlescent spots are not as bright, and the red in the fins is more of a faded orange. The ventral fins are clear. Some females develop an orange color in the belly, but most retain the golden color here, too. Females develop a dark spot just in front of the anal fin when they are ready to spawn, and the area swells up a bit. I can’t tell if this is the extension of an egg tube or just swelling around the urogenital pore. The Habitat In their homeland, celestial pearl danios are found in a series of groundwater or spring-fed ponds in the Shan Plateau where the Salween River cuts a deep swath. It is important to note that the fish occurs in several ponds, not just one as has been widely reported.

These ponds are found in the mountainous area around the town of Hopong in the outskirts of the Shan state capitol of Taunggyi, at an elevation from just over a half mile to nearly a mile above sea level. The area is mostly grassland and rice paddies, so the ponds are open to the sun and filled with a rich variety of aquatic plants. The celestial pearl danio has evolved to take maximum advantage of this, and hobbyists should strive to remember their native habitat when setting up a tank at home. Information on the water parameters of the fish’s native habitat is sketchy. It appears from various reports that most of the waters are just around or above neutral, with low carbonate content and low conductivity. Aquarists around the world have reported success, including successful spawns, in water ranging from soft acid water in Central Europe and Southeast Asia, to hard basic water in the United Kingdom and the United States. So the exact parameters appear to be unimportant, as long as the water is kept clean, meaning that water changes are done regularly and the dissolved organics and nitrates are kept low. As you can imagine from the altitude of these habitats, the water temperatures are not exactly tropical.

Air temperatures around the area vary from near freezing in the winter to almost 95°F in the summer. Travel agencies report that the weather in the area is “mild and pleasant” for the travel season, but it can be “cold, damp, and miserable” in the rainy season. Many hobbyists have reported success keeping celestial pearl danios in temperatures in the low 70s. Few have had luck keeping them in warm water at 80°F or above, so keep that in mind as well. It might be best to keep them in unheated tanks, similar to the way you would keep their cousins, White Cloud Mountain minnows Tanichthys albonubes . The Aquarium At an adult size of about ¾ to 7/8 of an inch, including the tail, the CPD seems perfect for the popular desktop tanks or nano tanks, but only one male can be kept in such a small space. A tank of 10 gallons or more would be perfect for a group of them. In a larger tank you really get to see some of their interesting group dynamics, and subdominant males have a place to get away. Referring back to their local habitat, the tank should be heavily planted.

If you skimp on the plants the fish will be skittish, and they will display their discomfort by spending much of their time hiding. If you are planning to get them to reproduce it would be best to keep them in a species tank with no other fish, shrimp, or snails. For display purposes they can be kept successfully in a community tank of small fishes like Microrasbora and Boraras species. As I mentioned above, water parameters appear to be unimportant as long as extremes are avoided. A pH around 7 or slightly above, with medium hardness, would be perfect, but don’t worry too much about the exact numbers. Instead, spend your time doing large regular water changes. For filtration, a slowly bubbling sponge filter seems to work best, though with a lot of plants you might want to forgo even this type of filter and just use a micro power head-type filter for water circulation. Since they are from open sunlit ponds, the bright lighting required by the plants will be just fine for the fish, too. Feeding Most danios are omnivores, and CPDs appear to be as well.

My fish spend most of their time chasing and displaying for one another, and I have not seen them spend any time grazing. They have tiny mouths, and like all other cyprinids they have pharyngeal teeth. They also have tiny conical teeth in their jaws, indicating that they likely do prey on smaller critters. I feed my fish finely crushed premium-quality flakes, finely ground freeze-dried krill (this helps enhance the red coloration), newly hatched brine shrimp, and live foods like daphnia, moina, grindal worms, and small white worms. Several times a week I also feed with a high-quality micro pellet food. They eat everything with gusto! Behavior There have been several excellent pictures of large groups of schooling CPD males in dealer’s display tanks on the Internet, and I think that may have fueled the initial charge for obtaining this species. Unfortunately, it appears this schooling behavior is not common once the group settles in. It likely will not be replicated in your tank, so don’t expect to see it. Large groups will congregate, but I wouldn’t really call it schooling in the classical sense. Males spend much of their time courting females and sparring with rival males.

The fights between males are a ritualized circular dance, and usually little harm is done if the weaker male can swim away. The dominant male can be surprisingly brutal for such a tiny creature, though, and its tiny teeth can cause some damage if the weaker male cannot get away. In small tanks, losing males are often harassed to the point of death. Several hobbyists keeping them in small tanks have reported that within a few days a single male may kill all of the other males until he is the only one remaining. In larger tanks with a lot of plants it’s very common to see torn fins on all of the males but one; he’s the dominant fish. That’s why I would recommend at least a well-planted 10 gallon (a 20 long would be even better) for these little guys. Breeding Hobbyists all around the world are now reporting success with breeding these fish, though first credit appears to go to aquarists Pete Liptrot and Paul Dixon of the Bolton Museum Aquarium in the United Kingdom. They reported their first spawn in late October or early November of 2006, just a few weeks after the fish had been discovered in the wild.

Locally, my good friend and master breeder Charles Harrison was able to beat me to the punch, getting his first spawn in late December of 2006 when I was still trying to find healthy specimens of both sexes. Most of the fish available to me at that time were males, and they were a bit thin. Fortunately that has changed rapidly, and finding healthy fish of both sexes is not difficult. It appears that these fish spawn daily, or almost daily, in both the aquarium and in the wild. Females usually lay less than a dozen eggs, though if the sexes are separated and the fish conditioned for a week or so, some breeders have reported as many as 30 eggs from one large female in a single spawning event. As with most egg scatterers, the adults are ravenous egg eaters, so some sort of spawning grate to separate the eggs from the adults is in order. A setup similar to one for spawning zebra danios works well. Plastic needle-point canvas makes an excellent spawning grate. You can set them up with clumps of plants, or even with acrylic yarn spawning mops.

The small clear eggs are only lightly adhesive and fall to the bottom quickly if the mop or plant is disturbed, either by the aquarist checking for eggs or by the fish as they move through while spawning. The males will chase the females as other danios do, but these chases don’t often result in a spawning session. Instead, the actual spawning takes place when the male hovers over a clump of plants or a mop, with his body at a slight head-down angle to the bottom. I guess this is to display his red flash, though I have yet to see this particular part of the display. If the female is ready to spawn, she will swim over to him and initiate the spawning by what appears to be a headbutt to the area around his anal fin. They then dive into the spawning medium and quiver side by side, releasing the eggs and milt. The pair then breaks apart, the male and female each going separate ways. This spawning process may be repeated several times if the fish have been conditioned, or only once or twice if they are allowed to spawn daily. No pair bond is formed, and both sexes will spawn with multiple mates if partners are available.

If the breeder wants a decent-size spawn, however, it is best to use just a single pair in a separate spawning tank and to remove them as soon as spawning is complete. Fish that are not spawning will eat any eggs they can find—this includes mom and dad as soon as spawning is over. Raising the Fry Depending on temperature, the eggs will hatch in as little as three days at about 76°F, or as long as five days at 70°F. The newly hatched fry are dark colored and spend their time lying on the bottom under cover (if it’s available). They don’t move much, and many breeders have mistakenly thought they were dead. The fry will be up and swimming in two to four days, or even as long as a week, again depending on temperature. Interestingly, they have lost their dark coloration, and take on a lighter silver color. At this time it is necessary to start feeding them. For the first several days, feeding micro-foods is necessary. I usually start them on things like paramecia, but others have reported success with commercial liquid and dry fry foods.

If feeding a commercial diet it’s a good idea to add a few small snails to help clean up uneaten food. I also add in Walter worms, which are a type of microworm. These tiny nematodes are supposedly a bit smaller than the traditional microworm and are cultured in the same way. They spend more time in the water column before sinking to the bottom, so it allows the fry to feed in the open water for a longer period of time. After feeding micro-foods for about a week, I start adding newly hatched brine shrimp. Once all of the fry are taking the brine shrimp, as evidenced by their swollen orange to pink colored bellies after feeding, I discontinue the smaller foods. I continue to add the Walter worms for a few more weeks. From this point, growth is rapid. They begin taking on adult coloration at about 9 to 10 weeks of age and reach adult size at about 12 to 14 weeks of age. In my experience, this next generation will start reproducing as early as the age of 11 to 12 weeks. I’ve found fertile eggs in with fry that were just over ½ inch in size!

This doesn’t appear to be a fluke, as I’ve had tiny newly hatched fry turn up in planted grow-out tanks with no adults in them. The Cautionary Tale, and Some Good News The Internet can be a wonderful thing. It is a great way of disseminating information rapidly. Unfortunately, there are no ways of ensuring the information is accurate, even when reported by venerable news organizations. Word of the CPDs discovery spread like wildfire around the world, and their popularity was enhanced by the Internet. Early in 2007, just a couple of months after word of their discovery took the hobby by storm, rumors of their demise also spread around the Internet. Rumor had it that the pool where all of the CPDs were being collected had been completely emptied of fish. International environmental organizations were lobbying governments around the world to have all trading in the CPD halted immediately. All of this happened on the Internet. You could just hear the enemies of the aquarium hobby salivating and getting ready to jump on us.

(Yes, there are enemies of the aquarium hobby out there, and they are just waiting for one screw-up on our part to attack us and prove all of their twisted innuendos as correct.) News organizations were already jumping on this rumor, blaming hobbyists for the demise of this newly described species within just a few months of its discovery. This was the first time that the hobby would have been directly linked to the demise of a species, although it is often falsely blamed for such things. In fact, research has found that all of the fish taken for the hobby don’t make a measurable dent in wild populations. Collecting benefits local people, the habitat, and the fish being collected. Locals want to keep the fish populations strong so they have a source of income for years to come. But a lot of folks never let the facts get in the way of a good rumor, and the demise of the CPD was a goodrumor. I even fell for it myself. However, there was something very wrong if this rumor were in fact true. Normally when something becomes scarce the price of the ones remaining goes up.

However, in this case the wholesale price of the CPD did exactly the opposite; it went down considerably over a very short period of time not long after the stories of the demise of the fish began circulating. To paraphrase Mark Twain, the rumors of the CPD’s death has been greatly exaggerated. Instead just being found in the one pond reported as drying up, it appears these fish are actually in a fairly widespread series of pools and ponds. Currently, scientists and even collectors are unsure of the extent of their range. What is clear is that the CPD is not “endangered” or “extinct.” Those words mean specific things, and should not be bandied about without a lot of research to back them up. Don’t believe everything you read on the Internet! Using standard collecting techniques and returning the plants to the ponds after collecting, along with rotating the ponds where they are harvested and farm breeding, should ensure the viability of these beauties for generations to come. Those reporting the fish’s demise also did not take into account the incredible fecundity of these diminutive beauties.

Since the adults spawn almost every day, and since the newly hatched fry head to the bottom for several days, a pond could be completely cleaned out of adults and be restocked with a breeding population in just a couple of months. Plus, the species has proven extremely easy to breed and prolific in the tanks of aquarists. If they haven’t already done so, it won’t be long before the fish farmers begin to work with this species. Since the CPD is so easy to spawn, fish farms should be able to produce them by the tens of thousands. In closing, I should mention one other neat little tidbit about the celestial pearl danio. It seems there is more than one color variant coming in now. At least right now, it seems that dealers will either get a shipment of all one type or all of the other. (This backs up the idea that each is collected in different ponds, though I have been unable to verify to this point). The coloration on males of this new variant is more orange in areas that are red on the normal CPD males. They display a different distribution of this coloration on the body as well. Most noticeably, instead of tiny round pearlescent spots, they are covered with long oval spots.

The midnight blue coloration of males is less intense, almost an olive-blue. I don’t know if there is an official name for this new variant yet, or if even anyone else has noticed them. I have been calling them longspot CPDs. Maybe it will catch on, and if it does, remember you read it here first! It is possible this is a distinct variant coming from different ponds, or it might even represent a second species. Who knows? What I do know is that the beautiful celestial pearl danio is just beginning its time as a magnificent addition to the variety of small fish perfect for aquarium life. It is beautiful, has interesting behavior that we are only beginning to learn about, is easy to care for, and easy to breed. What more could a hobbyist want? Zebra Danio Caring, Feeding and Breeding Temperature: 64-74 F (18-24 C) Origin/Distribution The Zebra Danios was originally thought to originate from a wider range that stretched as Myanmar in the east and Pakistan in the west; however, the current consensus is that this species originates from a narrower range that is contained to parts of India and Bangladesh.

Part of this change in distribution is due to the identification of similar species that were once misidentified as Danio Rerio, as well as damage to the environment that resulted in a reduction of habitable areas. Fish available in the industry today are almost always captive bred. Zebras are easy and inexpensive to raise, making them prime candidates for commercial breeding. While commercial breeding has provided a large and unlimited supply of this species, it has also resulted in a fish that is less robust than the original wild species. Description Among the hardiest and active of aquarium fish , the Zebra Danio is easily recognized by its distinctive horizontal stripes. Blue-purple horizontal stripes run from gill to tail, setting off the slim compressed silver-gold body of this attractive fish. The peaceful nature and small size of the Zebra Danio, no more than two and a half inches, make them well suited to a community aquarium. Albino/golden, veil tailed and long finned Zebra Danio varieties are available, as well as a popular leopard variety. The leopard strain is characterized by a copious sprinkling of black spots over the entire body.

In the past, the Leopard Danio was considered a different species, but genetic studies have proven that it is merely a spotted variation of Danio Rerio. All varieties thrive in schools, and they should never be kept singly. Tankmates Zebra Danios are a peaceful fish that get along with most any tankmates, however, they will nip fins of certain species of fish. Any fish with long flowing fins, such as Angelfish , Bettas , and Guppies, are potential targets of the active Zebra looking for something to do. Habitat/Care Zebras are primarily surface dwelling fish that favor moving waters. Technically they are considered cold-water fish , preferring water in the 64-75 degree range. However, they will adapt to a wide range of water conditions. With the advent of commercial breeding, this species has become less robust than species in the wild. If water temperatures are kept low, they tend to become more susceptible to disease. Zebras are extremely active, and although they have a preference for the upper levels of the aquarium, they will move throughout the entire tank. Provide them with diffuse lighting and an open swimming space, together with vegetation around the periphery of the habitat.

A darker substrate will help showcase the color in these fish and gives the habitat a more natural feel. Diet Zebra Danios are omnivorous, accepting almost any foods. Although undemanding in diet, they particularly enjoy small live or frozen inverts and fresh vegetable matter. Sexual Differences Males are a bit smaller and more slender than females. Both sexes have two pairs of barbels and the same stripes, but females are usually larger and more full-bodied than the males, which is particularly noticeable when they fill with eggs. Breeding Zebra Danios are ideal for beginners as they are prolific breeders, and interestingly, mated pairs remain together for life and rarely spawn with others, even if one mate dies. The best way to obtain a mating pair is to start with a school of a half dozen or more young Zebras and allow them to choose mates. Set up the breeding tank with shallow water, approximately six inches deep. Furnish the tank with fine-leafed plants or a spawning grid on the bottom. Course gravel works well as the eggs will fall between the gravel pieces and will be protected from the adult fish, which will readily eat their own eggs.

Spawning requires temperatures of up to 78 degrees and can be triggered by raising the water a couple of degrees near dawn when spawning normally occurs. About 300 to 500 eggs will be scattered across the bottom and on the plants. Remove breeders after spawning, as they will consume the young. The fry will hatch in two days. They are very tiny and can easily be lost when changing water , so take care when maintaining the grow-out tank. Feed the young commercially prepared fry food or finely crushed dry foods. You can also add powdered egg to the fry food to promote growth. Interbreeding species of Danios. Has anyone done this? So, I was looking at the Glofish at work the other day as I was talking to a customer about thier origins and whatnot and started thinking about breeding the Glofish to regular Zebra Danios. My question, and the experimentation comes into play when I started thinking about breeding the Glofish to Leopard Danios or even Pearl Danios. Is it possible to interbreed species of Danio like that and has anyone ever tried this before?

And would I be correct in thinking that if i bred the longfinned versions of the danios to the glofish, i'd just get long fined versions of the offspring? Any input would be appreciated as well as past experiences. Aquariums Why would i have to destroy them? Last I checked there's no patent on a natural creature, and if i can get them to survive to a plausable size then I can share them either with the company I work for and thus, some of my favorite customers as well as my friends, and with the Glofish I'l just keep what I can manage to keep alive. Worst case scenario, I have fish who like to eat fish, altho I highly doubt it will come to that. Likewise, say this works at all angles and i have a few hundred fish, I have access to much much larger tanks, however, both of these past two options ore the far extremes.

This is my first attempt at purposefully breeding fish for the offspring (I have guppies in my tank who's entire purpose in life is to make babies for my knife and rope fish to eat, and no i'm not a bad person, but fish have to eat too) so I'm not expecting a huge success rate, altho I am prepared for it should it happen. Originally Posted by catfishtabbi View Post wake up there are instances where ignorance and interpretation will not help you out it will infuriate those judging you. It's not right to judge people based on such inferior things. Everyone has opinions and I respect that, however, with all due respect to whomever might take offense to this, what I do in my own home on my own time is my business. I don't see how you guys are saying it's cruel. I'm not trying to create a new species for any kind of glory or public recogition, I'm only thinking about doing it because it seemed like it could be a fun little project and experiment. I'm trying to vary the things i can say I've done.

I know people who have bred the Glofish to regular zebra danios, that's how i know it can be done. at this point, i don't care if the zebras will breed to the leopards or if i make leopard danios with bright red and orange polka dots, i was merely voicing an idea outloud and wondering if anyone has ever tried it, that's all. NOT TO MENTION that all great ideas start with one person, and if I WAS in it to gain something other than satisfying my own curiosity (which is my only goal BY THE WAY) then i couldn't hardly go to any intellegent group of scientists and say "hey i have this totally off the wall idea with no scientific proof to back it up or even suggest that it's remotely worth your time to bother with but here it is anyway!" So, with all that being said I'm going to apologize for letting my anger get the best of me there I ranted a bit more than i realized... What fish are compatible with zebra danios? | Reference.com What fish are compatible with zebra danios? A: Quick Answer Zebra danios are peaceful schooling fish tolerant of a wide range of aquarium conditions, according to Animal World.

As such, zebra danios are compatible with most species of tropical fish, particularly those described as "community fish." Examples of fish that do well with zebra danios, as listed by Aquarium Fish, are any of the larger livebearers, such as swordtails, mollies, platies and any of the larger tetra species. Full Answer Animal World states that zebra danios should be kept in schools with at least five individuals, preferably more. However, large schools of zebra danios may make some slower-moving fish nervous because of the high level of coordinated activity displayed by the schools. Aquarium Fish provides several suggested groupings of fish to keep with a school of zebra danios. In addition to being compatible with assorted livebearers and tetras, a large school of zebra danios usually does well in a tank with one rainbow or redtail shark, a small group of corydorus catfish, a school of clown loaches, assorted barbs, most of the smaller gouramis or assorted rainbows. Schools of zebra danios can be used as "dither fish" to distract aggressive fish from fighting.

For example, if female betas are kept together, they are prone to fighting unless dither fish are added to the tank as distractions.

Question: What type of creature is a danio?
Answer: Fish