Vermicompost Methods | Garden Guides Vermicompost Methods Submit Vermicomposting refers to the cultivation of earthworms, and vermicompost is the excretion of those worms, which is extremely rich in humus. Voracious eaters, the worms consume cow dung, barnyard manure and virtually any organic material, converting it into vermicompost. A simple and effective means of creating nutrient-rich soil, vermicomposting can be done indoors and out. Getting Started Simple and inexpensive, the end result of vermicomposting is a supply of nutrient-rich fertilizer. The National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service notes that "worms eat many types of organic waste materials and convert them into castings. This material is highly valued as a soil amendment because it contains plant-available yet stable nutrients." Unlike traditional composting, there is less of a smell associated with vermicomposting, so maintaining an indoor bin is also an option. Indoor An indoor vermicompost bin should consist of a large plastic bin with a lid on the top and a tray on the bottom. Drill several air holes around the bin to increase air circulation. Add shredded newspaper (no glossy magazines), dry leaves and several handfuls of sand and soil.

Next, place around 500 worms on the top of the pile. The worms will crawl to the bottom. Begin feeding the worms by placing raw vegetables, coffee grounds, egg shells and other organic unprocessed table scraps in a different corner of the bin each week. Keep the materials moist by adding water frequently. Outdoor An outdoor vermicompost bin constructed of non-treated wood will allow for better ventilation as well as absorption of excess moisture. Keep the bin covered to provide a dark environment. Proper ventilation is important. For best results dig a trench 1 foot deep and place the bin inside, surrounding the side with soil. This should help insulate the bin and protect it through the winter. You cannot overfeed the worms, but they can only consume their weight in food daily. Overloading the bin with scraps can lead to a foul smell from food rot. Worms While there are generally two types of worms used in vermicomposting, red wigglers and European nightcralwers, the wigglers are favored for their hardiness and productivity. Whichever worm you choose, do not mix the species in the same bin. Purchase worms online or through mail-order gardening catalogs.

Harvesting Expect your first harvest of quality compost in three to four months. Carefully remove the worm castings (vermicompost) and worms and place them in four large piles on a tarp under light (sunlight is fine). The worms will move to the center of the tarp. Gather up the worms and return them to the bin to start the vermicomposting process over again. Unlike other dung-related fertilizers, worm castings are pathogen-free and present no risk to the gardener. Advantages Eco-friendly, vermicompost is biodegradable and 100 percent natural. The worm casings have no adverse effect on soil or plants and help with soil aeration. The high nutrient value of worm casing exceeds barnyard manure for all nutrients and reduces or eliminates the need for synthetic hormones or chemical-based fertilizers. Who Can Help Introduction to Vermiculture | Garden Guides Introduction to Vermiculture Submit Overview Vermiculture refers to the raising of earthworms under controlled conditions. Anyone from apartment dwellers who keep a worm bin on the kitchen counter to students who create an insulated outdoor pit for cafeteria waste can practice vermiculture.

The related term vermicompost refers to the end product created by the worms: a nutrient-rich humus containing worm manure ("castings") and associated organisms. History Earthworms have won praise as brilliant soil excavators and improvers from Aristotle, Cleopatra and Charles Darwin. But it wasn't until the 1970s that Kalamazoo, Michigan, biology teacher Mary Appelhof developed the idea of using red wiggler worms, Eisenia fetida, in contained indoor or outdoor systems to convert ordinary kitchen scraps into valuable worm compost. She produced a simple brochure, "Basement Worm Bins Produce Potting Soil and Reduce Garbage," in 1973, and the book "Worms Eat My Garbage" in 1982 (revised in 1997), to bring popular attention to her system. Considerations Compost worms require food, bedding, moisture, temperature, pH and darkness to thrive. They can typically eat most vegetable scraps, preferring pumpkin and mango especially, except for dairy and meat. Crushed eggshells provide them with grit and calcium. Paper, cardboard and moistened paperboard egg cartons can serve as bedding.

Place their food in pockets in the bedding and cover it up with several inches of bedding. Their bedding needs to be moist but not sopping wet, with a temperature ideally in the low 70s Fahrenheit, a neutral pH and kept in the dark. Function Successful vermiculture results in a doubling of the worm population in about three months as adults lay cocoons and juveniles reach sexual maturity. In this same time frame, the worms create both compost and surplus worms that you can use to populate additional worm bins or sell. Prevention/Solution Successful vermiculture hinges on not overfeeding your worm bin, which can result in anaerobic bacteria that smell bad and pose a threat to the worm population. Worm farmers call this problem sour crop or protein poisoning. Avoid this by checking whether the worms have finished their current pocket of food before adding more. If protein poisoning occurs, create an emergency bin with bedding and picked-out worms in a bucket or cooler and clean and restart your original bin with fresh bedding and a small amount of food.

Benefits Vermiculture reduces the waste stream created by a typical household or institution by diverting not only appropriate food scraps into the worm bin but also scrap paper, shredded or torn junk mail, and corrugated cardboard, used for bin bedding. Expert Insight In "Worms Eat My Garbage," Appelhof describes the whole vermicomposting process as one that is "very simple and has obvious advantages in addition to increasing garden yields." She praised compost worms as not making noise, requiring little care, creating "wonderful fertilizer" and allowing her to save money on weekly trash pickup. Keywords: introduction to vermiculture, worm bin basics, red wigglers, vermicomposting tips, Eisenia fetida About this Author Rogue Parrish has written two travel books and edited at the "The Baltimore Sun," "The Washington Post" and the Alaska Newspapers company. She began writing professionally in 1975. Parrish holds a summa cum laude Bachelor of Science degree in journalism from the University of Maryland.

Vermiculture — Veggie Gardening Tips Featuring Vegetable Gardening Tips, Organic Growing Techniques, and Unique Plants for the Backyard Gardener Vermiculture November 23, 2005 Vermiculture isn’t a common practice even among experienced organic gardeners, but it can be a very interesting addition to your gardening activities. Vermiculture or vermicomposting simply refers to the process of earthworm composting used to recycle yard waste and everyday kitchen scraps. Benefits of Vermiculture and Vermicomposting Clean and odorless, vermicomposting is carried out in specially designed worm bins located indoors or outdoors. The great thing about vermiculture is that the worms do all the work and quickly transform your garbage into a valuable organic plant and garden fertilizer. The laborers that perform this feat aren’t your typical night crawlers, but rather special composting varieties such as red wigglers. They will relish your leftover table scraps and in exchange provide you with rich, dark castings that will do wonders to improve the quality of your garden soil and enhance the growth of your plants.

Earthworm castings are actually much more than just a great organic fertilizer, they provide nutrients, enzymes, trace elements, growth enhancers, and beneficial micro organisms that combine to improve the health and growth of the garden. Vermiculture Bins and Vermiculture Kits Organic gardening supply companies sell castings, but if you’re adventurous set up a worm farm and produce your own. The Worm Man’s Worm Farm offers vermiculture supplies including do-it-yourself plans for building a simple bin and prefab worm composters that come complete with composting worms and detailed instructions. Raising composting worms and encouraging them to transform your food waste into a rich garden fertilizer is simple, but you must take care to provide the proper conditions for their health and survival. The worms won’t tolerate freezing, or excessively hot temperatures, and certain foods such as meats, fats, and greasy foods should not be fed to them. Kids love vermicomposting and some schools include vermiculture as part of the curriculum. If you’re interested in recycling and organic gardening, try your hand at earthworm composting and share your experiences back here. Hanan Hi, I am looking into doing vermicomposting on my own.

I just don’t see info on how long it takes to transform soil to worm casting ready soil? If you can indicate quantities (lbs, gallons) that will be great. Thank you. Vermicomposting: What, Development and Basic Procedure Basic Information and Procedure in Vermicomposting Ben G. Bareja, July 2011 What is vermicomposting? According to Arancon and Edwards (2006), it is the non-thermophilic process by which organic materials are converted by earthworms and microorganisms into rich soil amendments with greatly increased microbial activity and nutrient availability.The term has its origin from vermis, the Latin word for worm. The term is also used to refer to the technology of converting raw organic materials into organic fertilizer, called vermicompost, mainly through microbial action and the use of certain species of earthworm. In addition, the technology is applied in waste management by which organic “wastes” are recycled and made available for plant growth. This process is inseparable from vermiculture or the culture of earthworms. In vermiculture, the earthworm is the primary product while the vermicompost is only a by-product.

But the primary object of the vermicomposter is the production of vermicompost , a special type of compost, with earthworms as secondary product. In vermicomposting, the organic materials must be chosen with care or mixed in the right proportions and the compost bed must be provided with optimum conditions for the growth and reproduction of earthworms so that they will be more efficient in their feeding of the organic materials and producing excreta called vermicast. Short Review of the Development of Vermicomposting Composting, which refers to the controlled decomposition of organic materials, has been used by farmers and gardeners since prehistoric times to recycle wastes into products that enhance plant growth (Trautmann and Krasny 1997). Charles Darwin, the English naturalist who made waves in the scientific community with the publication of his “Of the Species and the Descent of Man,” conducted a comprehensive study of burrowing earthworms. In 1881, he published his last and final book “The Formation of Vegetable Mould, Through the Action of Worms, With Observations of their Habits” which reported in detail how these organisms feed and convert organic materials, mainly leaves, to castings which favor plant growth.

In the 1950s, vermiculture was started in the United States for the production of fish baits. In the 1980s, the United States and United Kingdom started using earthworms to produce vermicompost from organic wastes. In the Philippines, the production of vermicompost and vermimeal, or earthworm meal, started in 1979 (Guerrero 2009). But it was only in 1982 that the composting earthworm called African night crawler (ANC) was introduced into the country (Guerrero et al. 1984). The publication of the “Proceedings of a Workshop on the Role of Earthworms in the Stabilization of Organic Residues” in 1981, 100 years after Darwin's study, is responsible for the accelerated interest on the use of earthworms in breaking down organic wastes within and outside of the United States. Roy Hartenstein in the US and and Clive A. Edwards in the U.K. spearheaded the research on vermiculture in the 1980s (Edwards 2006).

As of 2004, Edwards (2004, cited by Edwards and Arancon 2006) reported that commercial vermicomposting projects have been developed in many countries such as England, France, the Netherlands, Germany, Italy, Spain, Poland, the United States, Cuba, Mexico, the Bahamas, China, Japan, Philippines, India and elsewhere in Southeast Asia, as well as Australia, New Zealand, American Samoa, Hawaii, and many countries in South America. On November 16-18, 2005, the International Symposium-Workshop on Vermi Technologies for Developing Countries was held in the Philippines. Starter Guide in Backyard Vermicomposting Vermicomposting methods vary according to various factors such as location (indoor, outdoor), intensity of care and scale of production (backyard, commercial), systems used (windrow, worm bins, bioreactors), methods of feeding and preparation of organic materials (gradual, batch, mesophilic, combined thermophilic and mesophilic composting).

For backyard batch composting following the windrow or outdoor pile method, it is common to combine thermophilic (high temperature) composting in which a maximum pile temperature of about 60-65°C is targetted. This is referred to as the pre-vermicomposting stage during which complex organic compounds are degraded by microorganisms. At the end of this thermophilic stage, the temperature of the pile gradually drops and the composting process becomes mesophilic (moderate temperature). This signals the right time to commence the second stage in which the right species of earthworm is introduced. As a practical guide in vermicomposting, the following procedure (thermophilic + mesophilic process) is provided: 1. Prepare the following materials or provide at the right time: carbon- and nitrogen-rich organic materials, spade, ground space, hollow blocks, stakes, plastic sheets or used sacks, water and water sprinklers, shading materials, nylon net or any substitute to cover the beds, and composting earthworms (e.g. ANC).

Nitrogen-rich substrates refer to animal manures, legumes, and fresh grass clippings, while others, particularly those colored brown and dry, are generally classified as carbon-rich substrates. 2. Mix carbonaceous with nitrogenous organic materials at the right proportions to obtain a C:N ratio of about 30:1. For example, rice straw and fresh manure are mixed at about 25:75 ratio by weight. But for practical application, a 1:1 or 50:50 ratio by volume can be tried as basis in mixing bulky carbonaceous materials (e.g. dried grasses) and manures. 3. Prepare the vermi bed by spreading plastic sheets or used sacks on the ground to prevent mixing of the soil with the compost during harvesting. Pile two layers of hollow blocks in square or rectangular pattern. Secure the blocks by sinking stakes through the holes. Remove completely growing vegetation sorrounding the bed and sweep away plant debris that may serve as food and induce the earthworms to migrate outside. Provide shade. 4. Fill the bed with the organic materials and water sparingly.

The size of the pile can vary but in general, a volume of at least 1 cubic meter (1 m3) is desired to allow thermophilic heating. A pile 1 m wide, 2 m long and 0.5 m high will have this volume. To conserve moisture and heat, the pile is covered from the top to the sides with plastic sheets or any substitute materials. 5. Wait for at least 15 days for the thermophilic process of composting to end. This process is characterized by a rapid increase in temperature of the pile (it can be checked manually with an open palm on top of the pile) followed later by a gradual decrease. When temperature approaches ambient temperature (<35°C, the height of the pile also subsides), remove the covering. Sprinkle with water if necessary, then commence vermicomposting proper by introducing the right species of earthworm. 6. Stock the partially decomposed organic materials with composting earthworms, e.g. ANC, by releasing them on top of the pile. The earthworms will immediately move downward.

A stocking rate of about 500 g of earthworms is sufficient for an original pile of 1 m3 but it can be lesser or more, depending on availability. Heavier stocking rate will mean faster rate of vermicast production. 7. Mulch the pile with coconut coir dust or grasses to prevent excessive loss of moisture. Then cover with nylon net or any substitute material like coconut fronds to serve as barrier against birds and other earthworm predators. Maintain sufficient moisture and aeration throughout the composting process. 8. Harvest the vermicompost as needed or when only a few organic materials remain intact. Use the earthworms for another round of vermicomposting. ( click on to read harvesting methods ) LITERATURE CITED ARANCON NQ, EDWARDS CA. 2006. Effects of vermicompost on plant growth. In: Guerrero R.D. III, Guerrero-del Castillo MRA (eds.). Vermi Technologies for Developing Countries. Proceedings of the International Symposium-Workshop on Vermi Technologies for Developing Countries. Nov. 16-18, 2005, Los Baños, Laguna, Philippines. Philippine Fisheries Association, Inc.

p 32-65. DARWIN C. 1881. The Formation of Vegetable Mould, Through the Action of Worms, With Observations of their Habits. London: John Murray. Retrieved May 27, 2011 from EDWARDS CA. 2006. Foreword. In: Guerrero R.D. III, Guerrero-del Castillo MRA (eds.). Vermi Technologies for Developing Countries. Proceedings of the International Symposium-Workshop on Vermi Technologies for Developing Countries. Nov. 16-18, 2005, Los Baños, Laguna, Philippines. Philippine Fisheries Association, Inc. p. iv-v. EDWARDS CA, ARANCON NQ. 2006. The science of vermiculture: the use of earthworms in organic waste management. In: Guerrero R.D. III, Guerrero-del Castillo MRA (eds.). Vermi Technologies for Developing Countries. Proceedings of the International Symposium-Workshop on Vermi Technologies for Developing Countries. Nov. 16-18, 2005, Los Baños, Laguna, Philippines. Philippine Fisheries Association, Inc. p. 1-30.

GUERRERO RD III. 2009. Vermicompost and Vermimeal Production. MARID Agribusiness Technology Guide. 22 p. GUERRERO RD III, GUERRERO LA, CARGADO AU. 1984. Studies on the culture of the earthworm, Eudrilus euginae, and its use use as feed for Macrobracchium idella and fertilizer source for Brassica compensis. Trans. Nat. Acad. Science. 6:33-40. TRAUTMANN NM, KRASNY ME. 1997. Composting in the classroom: scientific inquiry for high school students. Retrieved May 29, 2011 from Vermicomposting in Worm Bins | Vegetable Gardening Information Home » Info » Vermicompost.html Vermicomposting in Worm Bins Keeping worms indoors to compost kitchen garbage is often referred to by several names: vermiculture, worm farming, worm bin, and worm composting are among the more popular references. For our purposes, any of the above references would be sufficient. To add a little clarity, some definitions of worm related vocabulary might be useful.

Vermicompost is a more general term than worm castings, or vermicast. A vermicast is a manure, the material deposited from the worm, after it has moved through the digestive track. Vermicompost contains lots of worm castings, but also consists of partially decomposed bedding and organic bits with recognizable fragments of plants, food, and bedding. Worms of all ages can be found in vermicompost. If the worm bin is left unattended for around 6 months, the worms will eat all of the bedding and organic material, and the entire contents will be converted to vermicast or just castings. And lastly, vermiculture is the culturing of earthworms. Culture in this sense refers to when small organisms are raised in a controlled environment. Worm composting is an incredibly efficient way to convert your kitchen waste, cardboard, newspaper, junk mail, and other organic matter into nutrient rich compost for your garden plants and flower beds as well as house plants. Worms can't eat this garbage directly, it must be broken down so that they can digest it.

Worms rely on bacteria and other microorganisms to break the food down into small particles that the worm can fit inside its mouth. Once the worm eats the food, sand particles and muscles work together to grind up and further breakdown the food particles before it is actually digested. The worm's gut is full of tiny microbes that actually do the majority of the digestion. Types of Worms Not all worms are created equal. It is important to choose the right type of worms for your home composting system. You want worms that can process a large amount of organic material, and would probably prefer a variety that will not readily escape the container or bin. They should reproduce quickly in confinement, and be tolerant of the disturbance caused by lifting the lid, and burying trash on a regular basis. The earth-working variety of worms such as the night-crawler require large amounts of soil and like to dig deep burrows. They don't like their boroughs to be disturbed, and will quickly move around to escape your digging when you are burying their food. Night-crawlers do play an important role in your soil outside. They surface at night, forage for food and draw organic matter deep into their borough where they feed on it.

They are mixing the organic material at the surface into deeper layers of the soil where it can be more readily consumed by plants. They also bring minerals from the subsoil to the surface in their castings. They are good to see in your garden, but not the best choice for the worm bin. Red worms are the best choice for a home composting worm bin for the following reasons; they are litter dwellers, and because they tolerate distiburances well and do not have a predisposition to escape. They are naturally found among masses of decaying vegetables such as fallen leaves and manure piles, or under rotten logs. Red worms are found in mineral soils only when large amounts of organic matter are present. Red worms have many different common names, some of them include red wriggler, manure worm, or red hybrid. To purchase worms, we recommend you contact a local worm farm, or order online if there are none in your area. Check to find the worm farm closest to you. Placement of Worm Bin Placement of your worm bin should have several considerations, both of your needs and for the needs of your worms. In order for the worms to be happy, you'll need to consider temperature, moisture, acidity, and ventilation.

Equally important are your considerations which will include convenience, and aesthetic preferences. Temperature - Red worms feed most rapidly at temperatures between 59-77F o(15-25Co). They can tolerate temperatures as low as 50F o (10Co), but will die if the temperature goes below freezing. In cold northern winters they are known to dig into ground that is covered with straw, leaves, and manure which provides them heat, food, and insulation for winter survival. Bedding temperatures above 86oF (30oC) could also be harmful to your worms. Locations that get too hot might include a poorly ventilated attic, outside in direct sunlight (especially with a black/dark colored bin) and in the upper elevations of a green house. Moisture - Worms breathe through their skin, which must be moist for them to exchange air and waste products to/from their environment. Too much moisture, present as standing water in the bin can reduce available oxygen and cause the worms to drown. Be sure to place your bin where there is no danger of natural flooding, which could also drown worms. To gauge moisture look at the materials.

You should never see dry scraps, especially paper in a working tray. If the bin is running dry, add water directly, or soak paper in the water before adding it. Also, a majority of common worm foods are also high in moisture. Just be sure to not add too much moisture at the same time. If you suspect it is too moist do a squeeze test. Hold a small amount of bedding between your fingers and squeeze. You want to see a drop or two of water. The bedding should be as moist as a wrung out sponge. Very wet bedding will tend to smell bad, so add some more dry bedding material to compensate. Acidity – Red worms can tolerate a fairly wide range of acidity in their environment, but slightly acidic conditions are best. A pH between 5-9 is suitable for red worms. The worms may try to escape from a bin with a low (acidic) pH below 4.0 and should be avoided. Ventilation - Worms need to consume oxygen in their bodily processes, and will produce carbon dioxide; just like we do. Wrapping your worm bin in plastic will eventually smother your worms, they need to breathe.

Your needs and expectations The convenience of your worm bin relates directly to placement of your worm bin. Since food preparation is done in the kitchen, the most convenient place might be in the kitchen. An insulated garage might also be a good choice if the temperature range was acceptable. The basement is another ideal location because it is out of the way, and typically a good temperature range. It is important to understand what expectations are realistic when starting a worm bin. For example, you can reasonably expect to bury a large portion of your biodegradable kitchen garbage in a properly prepared worm bin, check it occasionally, make judgments about what adjustments need to be made, then harvest the worms and vermicompost or vermicast after several months. However, it would be unrealistic to expect to be able to dump all your kitchen trash into a bin, and 2 weeks later to collect quantities of fine, dark worm castings to sprinkle on your house plants. Keeping a worm bin over the winter will minimize the number of trips to the compost pile throughout winter, but there will be times when this is necessary. Most people will do best maintaining two different containers, one to collect food for the worms, and one to empty on the compost pile.

Separating them will also allow you to keep the seeds in the compost pile, where there is some chance they would be killed by the heat of the compost. Earthworms seldom kill tomato or weed seeds. If your expectation is to grow extra worms for fishing, you should understand this comes with a relatively high level of maintenance. If this is your goal, you should expect to harvest worms every 2-3 months, transfer worms to fresh bedding, and accept vermicompost that is less finished. Try this recipe as the ideal worm fattening food: 5 parts chicken layer mash, 2 parts wheat or rice bran, 1 part agricultural lime, 1 part wheat flour, 1 part powdered milk. Your local feed store should have chicken mash, or you can substitute cornmeal. It will take several days to fatten up your worms. Worms that typically eat compost materials are probably smaller than most people would prefer for fishing. If however, your goal is finished worm castings for plants, the maintenance level is fairly low.You will need to bury biodegradable kitchen waste, then leave it alone.

The worms will eat the food and deposit the castings at their own pace, and will eventually leave you with a bin full of vermicompost. Worm Containers You can make worm containers from just about anything. Plastic bins can be good choices, or you can also make a simple box from wooden boards or plywood. Wooden boxes will breathe better than plastic ones, but plastic will last much longer. If using wood, make several, and rotate them in and out of use. Letting boxes completely dry out between use will extend their life a great deal. We don't recommend using pressure treated wood if building your own, the chemicals used to treat the wood may leach into your vermicompost. The box can be made in any size, but a typical starting point for a box would be about 2 feet square, and 1 foot high, and can be open on the top. Both plastic and wood boxes should have adequate ventilation. Several holes should be drilled below the soil line to increase the contact area of the air and soil. Large diameter holes can be drilled in wood boxes and covered with screen to keep the soil in.

Stackable boxes help to contain any dripping, and those with an open bottom allow the worms to migrate from bin to bin to allow them to find a comfortable environment. How many worms? Worms are typically sold in terms of weight. Worms can consume their weight of organic matter in a day, regardless of their size. Many small worms can be just as effective as a smaller population of larger ones; it is the overall biomass of the worms that matters. Ideally you would have enough worms to eat the average daily waste you plan on burying. A good baseline would be planning for the worms to eat about ½ their weight in kitchen waste. If you average 1 pound of kitchen waste per day, you would need 2 pounds of worms to keep up with you. Your worm population will adjust to their environment. The worm population will always seek an equilibrium that balances the available resources with the population of worms. Given good conditions, the worms will multiply and increase numbers. With poor conditions, they will automatically reduce to a sustainable level. You don't need to purchase the entire amount of worms you need to get started, it is likely a couple dozen would suffice if you are very patient.

You will need to understand that in the beginning your worm bin may not be able to keep up with your overall kitchen waste output until they have had a chance to build their population. It is recommended that you start with at least 1 pound of red worms, which should get you something like 1,000-2,000 worms, depending on their size. Worm Bedding: Worm bedding holds moisture and provides a medium in which the worms can work, as well as something to bury the garbage in. Worm bedding is usually some form of cellulose, and a good carbon source. The bedding will be eaten by the worms, and needs to be non toxic to them. The most desirable bedding is also light and fluffy, two conditions necessary for air exchange throughout the depth of the container. This exchange helps to control offensive odors by reducing the chances that anaerobic conditions will develop. Good bedding materials: Hand shredded newspaper is readily available and probably the least expensive option. Fully open a section of newspaper, and tear it lengthwise down the center fold in strips 1-3 inches wide. This can be used directly as bedding, or you can rip the pieces smaller if you prefer.

A shredder machine can supply high volumes of excellent bedding material. We tend to limit the amount of waxy, colorful advertisements for fear of the chemicals used in the ink. Black ink is largely soy based these days because it is cheaper to produce, so it should not be introducing harmful chemicals. Leaf mold can also be used, but may introduce unwanted organisms to your worm bin. Composted animal manure from horse, rabbit, or cow can also be good worm bedding material. Manure is a natural habitat for worms, but tends to be difficult to obtain. If you do find some, make sure the animals were not recently de-wormed, because those same chemicals that kill the parasitic worms will kill your red worms as well. The initial odor from the compost will disappear within a few days after the red worms are added. Manure is likely to contain other organisms such as mites, sowbugs, centipedes, or grubs, which some people would prefer not to have in their worm bin. If you decide to use manure, add some water and wait a day or two to monitor the temperature, and make sure it stays below 86oF.

Manure can put off a good amount of heat while it is decomposing and can kill your worms in the process. Worms can be added directly once there is no danger of overheating. Coconut fiber, known as coir is a clean, easy to prepare worm bedding. It comes as a block of compressed fiber which expands rapidly when placed in the appropriate volume of water. Wood chips can also be used as a worm bedding. They can be screened out from the finished vermicompost and reused, and do a good job when mixed with other bedding materials or leaves. Additions to bedding Soil - Adding a handful of soil will provide some grit to aid in breaking down food particles within the worm's gizzard. It also introduces an inoculate source of a variety of soil bacteria, protoza and fungi which will aid in the decomposition process. It is these microorganisms that do most of the work, the worms eat those portions the microorganisms are digesting. Worms do not have teeth, or a complicated stomach, so they rely on other organisms to get the process started for them. Calcium Carbonate (powdered limestone) - can also be used to provide grit.

It has the further advantage of keeping the bin from becoming too acidic, and providing calcium, which is necessary for worm reproduction and survival. Pulverized egg shells can also serve the same purpose. Rockdust is another good source of grit. It is produced in gravel crushing operations and glacier movements, and contains many trace minerals that support plant growth. Worm Food Worm, worm casting producer moves, expands in Union Grove | UNCO Industries, Inc. Contact Us Worm, worm casting producer moves, expands in Union Grove RACINE COUNTY — Unco Industries, the producer of Wiggle Worm Soil Builder, is currently growing like a tomato plant started with a healthy handful of worm castings. Unco, based at 7802 Old Spring St. in Mount Pleasant, is the industry leader in worm castings, an organic fertilizer, Unco owner, co-founder and CEO Tom Chapman said Monday. “I’d never be here if I didn’t reinvent the (production) process,” he said about the converted country school in Mount Pleasant. So he is now moving the corporate offices to 1577 11th Ave., Union Grove, and expanding production there.

Chapman bought the 52,000-square-foot building in Union Grove for $420,000 and will spend about $350,000 on renovations. The project, which should be completed in about mid-March, will roughly double production capacity, and Chapman promised, “There is enough of a market for that.” Unco’s foundation is a system for growing earthworms, or night crawlers, and harvesting pure worm castings — “worm poop,” as Chapman occasionally refers to them. Chapman and his friend Dave Hauch started the business straight out of high school in 1983, originally in an unused Hauch family dairy barn on Highway 38. Initially they raised worms for bait. Within a few years, Chapman bought out Hauch and has since devised his own methods of vermiculture, or worm cultivation, which Chapman said is a type of animal husbandry. Worm casting sales now comprise about 70 percent of sales, which currently total about $2.5 million a year. Unco has about 18 production facilities around the country, Chapman said. Some Wiggle Worm is sold straight to consumers under that brand.

But in the past few years, another market has opened for Unco: large companies that buy worm castings in bulk and make their own specialized soil blends with their own brands. Those blends can contain from 2 percent to 20 percent worm castings, Chapman said. “That’s becoming a big market for us,” he said. He added, “We have customers that will take 100 semi-truckloads (per year) for their blend.” Four years ago those customers were nonexistent. The biggest problem at the Mount Pleasant site was not production capacity but warehouse space, Chapman said. That meant filling some orders could be delayed by almost two weeks. The new facility should solve that problem. And employment should climb from about 10 people now to 16 to 20 within two years, Chapman estimated. He is also working with a partner company to create a new product, a liquid form of worm castings that may reach market in a year. That’s a business that’s galloping — not crawling. 9788180940651: Vermitechnology - AbeBooks - A. Mary Violet Christy: 8180940659 A.

Mary Violet Christy ISBN 10: 8180940659 ISBN 13: 9788180940651 Publisher: Mjp Publishers, 2008 Customers Who Bought This Item Also Bought: Top Search Results from the AbeBooks Marketplace Stock Image Published by MJP Publishers, New Delhi (2008) ISBN 10: 8180940659 ISBN 13: 9788180940651 New Soft cover Quantity Available: 20 Seller Rating [?] Book Description MJP Publishers, New Delhi, 2008. Soft cover. Book Condition: New. 22 cms. 130pp. Bookseller Inventory # 252757 Published by MJP Publishers (2008) ISBN 10: 8180940659 ISBN 13: 9788180940651 New Softcover First Edition Quantity Available: > 20 Seller Rating [?] Book Description MJP Publishers, 2008. Softcover. Book Condition: New.

First edition. 14 x 21 cm. Vermiculture refers to the artificial rearing or cultivation of earthworms for the production of vermicompost to benefit humans. The utility and variability of research work in this field could be of great use to the agricultural community. The book provides the basic concepts of vermitechnology in a manner suited to a broad spectrum of graduates and researchers. Contents I. EARTHWORM : 1. Introduction 2. Categories of Earthworms : i. Anecic Species ii. Endogeic Species iii. Epigeic Species 2. Characteristics of Earthworms : i. Colour ii. Habitat iii. Body Structure iv. Locomotion v. Food Ingestion vi. Reproduction 3. The Biology of the Earthworm : i. Lumbricus Terrestris ii. Eisenia Fetida and Eisenia Andreii iii. Eudrilus Eugenia iv. Amynthas Gracilus v. Perionyx Excavatus vi. Eisenia Hortensis 4. Adaptations of Earthworms 5. Importance of Earthworms : i. Enhancement of the Soil ii.

Changes in Soil pH iii. Agent of Decomposition iv. Humus Formation v. Improvement of Soil Quality 6. Earthworms and Microorganisms 7. Pests and Diseases of Earthworms 8. Economic Importance of Earthworms 9. Medicinal Importance of Earthworms Review Questions II. VERMICULTURE : 1. Introduction 2. Vermiculture Process 3. Earthworm`s. Food : i. Utilization of Potential Organic Resources for Vermiculture 4. Monoculture and Polyculture Review Questions III. VERMICOMPOST AND VERMIWASH : 1. Introduction 2. What is Vermicompost 3. Selection of Species for Vermicomposting 4. Characteristics of Materials for Vermicomposting 5. Selection of Materials for Vermicomposting 6. Parameters of Vermicomposting 7. Vermicomposting Technology 8. Vermicomposting of Wastes in Field Pits 9. Vermicomposting of Wastes on Ground Heaps 10. Vermicomposting of Wastes by Tank Method 11. Vermicomposting on a Large or Community Scale by Roof Shed Method 12.

Static Pile Windrows (Batch) 13. Top-fed Windrows (Continuous Flow) 14. Wedges (Continuous Flow) 15. Bin Method 16. Wormery 17. Structure of Vermicast 18. Harvesting the Compost 19. Precautions for Storage of Vermicompost 20. Characterization of Vermicompost 21. Importance of Vermicompost 22. Advantages of Vermicompost 23. Vermiwash : i. Vermiwash Preparation ii. Application of Vermiwash Review Questions IV. ROLE OF VERMICOMPOST IN Plant GROWTH : 1. Introduction 2. Role of Earthworms in Soil 3. Importance of Aeration in Plant Roots 4. Nutrient Availability in Vermicompost : i. Nitrogen ii. Sulphur iii. Calcium iv. Phosphorus v. Potassium vi. Magnesium vii. Iron viii. Manganese ix. Boron x. Copper xi. Zinc xii. Molybdenum 5. Analysis of Plant Growth Parameters by Application of Vermicompost 6.

Application of Vermicompost 7. Organic Farming : i. Advantages of Organic Farming Review Questions V. Standards OF HIGH-QUALITY VERMICULTURE PRODUCTS : 1. Introduction 2. Important Parameters of Product Quality 3. Important Tests of Product Quality 4. Standardization of Vermicompost 5. Processing of the Vermicompost 6. Packing and Sale of Vermicompost and Excess Earthworms 7. Nutrient Content of Vermicompost 8. Economic Viability of Vermicompost Review Questions VI. VERMICULTURE FOR WASTE Reduction : 1. Introduction 2. Chemical Fertilizers 3. Biofertilizer 4. Waste Reduction : i. Solid Wastes ii. Biomedical Wastes iii. Domestic Wastes iv. Industrial Wastes 5. Waste Degradation by Vermicomposting Review Questions Printed Pages: 132. Bookseller Inventory # 40866 Rating [?] Book Description MJP Publishers, 2008. Softcover. Book Condition: New. First edition. 14 x 21 cm.

Vermiculture refers to the artificial rearing or cultivation of earthworms for the production of vermicompost to benefit humans. The utility and variability of research work in this field could be of great use to the agricultural community. The book provides the basic concepts of vermitechnology in a manner suited to a broad spectrum of graduates and researchers. Contents I. EARTHWORM : 1. Introduction 2. Categories of Earthworms : i. Anecic Species ii. Endogeic Species iii. Epigeic Species 2. Characteristics of Earthworms : i. Colour ii. Habitat iii. Body Structure iv. Locomotion v. Food Ingestion vi. Reproduction 3. The Biology of the Earthworm : i. Lumbricus Terrestris ii. Eisenia Fetida and Eisenia Andreii iii. Eudrilus Eugenia iv. Amynthas Gracilus v. Perionyx Excavatus vi. Eisenia Hortensis 4. Adaptations of Earthworms 5. Importance of Earthworms : i. Enhancement of the Soil ii. Changes in Soil pH iii. Agent of Decomposition iv.

Humus Formation v. Improvement of Soil Quality 6. Earthworms and Microorganisms 7. Pests and Diseases of Earthworms 8. Economic Importance of Earthworms 9. Medicinal Importance of Earthworms Review Questions II. VERMICULTURE : 1. Introduction 2. Vermiculture Process 3. Earthworm`s. Food : i. Utilization of Potential Organic Resources for Vermiculture 4. Monoculture and Polyculture Review Questions III. VERMICOMPOST AND VERMIWASH : 1. Introduction 2. What is Vermicompost 3. Selection of Species for Vermicomposting 4. Characteristics of Materials for Vermicomposting 5. Selection of Materials for Vermicomposting 6. Parameters of Vermicomposting 7. Vermicomposting Technology 8. Vermicomposting of Wastes in Field Pits 9. Vermicomposting of Wastes on Ground Heaps 10. Vermicomposting of Wastes by Tank Method 11. Vermicomposting on a Large or Community Scale by Roof Shed Method 12. Static Pile Windrows (Batch) 13.

Top-fed Windrows (Continuous Flow) 14. Wedges (Continuous Flow) 15. Bin Method 16. Wormery 17. Structure of Vermicast 18. Harvesting the Compost 19. Precautions for Storage of Vermicompost 20. Characterization of Vermicompost 21. Importance of Vermicompost 22. Advantages of Vermicompost 23. Vermiwash : i. Vermiwash Preparation ii. Application of Vermiwash Review Questions IV. ROLE OF VERMICOMPOST IN Plant GROWTH : 1. Introduction 2. Role of Earthworms in Soil 3. Importance of Aeration in Plant Roots 4. Nutrient Availability in Vermicompost : i. Nitrogen ii. Sulphur iii. Calcium iv. Phosphorus v. Potassium vi. Magnesium vii. Iron viii. Manganese ix. Boron x. Copper xi. Zinc xii. Molybdenum 5. Analysis of Plant Growth Parameters by Application of Vermicompost 6. Application of Vermicompost 7. Organic Farming : i.

Advantages of Organic Farming Review Questions V. Standards OF HIGH-QUALITY VERMICULTURE PRODUCTS : 1. Introduction 2. Important Parameters of Product Quality 3. Important Tests of Product Quality 4. Standardization of Vermicompost 5. Processing of the Vermicompost 6. Packing and Sale of Vermicompost and Excess Earthworms 7. Nutrient Content of Vermicompost 8. Economic Viability of Vermicompost Review Questions VI. VERMICULTURE FOR WASTE Reduction : 1. Introduction 2. Chemical Fertilizers 3. Biofertilizer 4. Waste Reduction : i. Solid Wastes ii. Biomedical Wastes iii. Domestic Wastes iv. Industrial Wastes 5. Waste Degradation by Vermicomposting Review Questions Printed Pages: 132. Bookseller Inventory # 40866 Organic Farming Organic Farming As the saying goes, “if we take care of the soil, the soil will take care of us.” Taking responsibility over farming techniques can do so much for the sustainable development of Boracay’s ecology.

Aside from combatting climate change through reduction of toxic substances and chemical pollutants in the environment, organic farming can also help promote biodiversity through the rotation of crops. With this, it can also contribute to the betterment of the natural ecosystems in the island. Organic farming in Balinghai is more than growing seedlings without the use of chemically manufactured fertilizers; it is a lifestyle that sees to it that the principles of agriculture are applied in harmony with nature. This practice is all about compassionate interaction with the whole landscape and the plants being tended. Nurturing aloe veras, legumes, and other seedlings in the resort in an organic way ensures that the plant, the soil, and the people are in balance with nature.

Established by the International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements (IFOAM), the Principles of Organic Agriculture include: 1) The Principle of Health – “Organic agriculture should sustain and enhance the health of soil, plant, animal and human as one and indivisible;” 2) The Principle of Ecology – “Organic agriculture should be based on living ecological systems and cycles, work with them, emulate them and help sustain them;” 3) The Principle of Fairness – “Organic agriculture should build on relationships that ensure fairness with regard to the common environment and life opportunities;” and 4) The Principle of Care – “Organic agriculture should be managed in a precautionary and responsible manner to protect the health and well-being of current and future generations and the environment.” Vermiculture and Vermicomposting In line with Balinghai’s organic farming initiative, they also support and practice vermiculture and vermicomposting. In nurturing fruit and vegetable seedlings in the resort, Balinghai makes use of all-natural fertilizers out of organic wastes cultivated by earthworms. Vermiculture or “worm farming” refers to the cultivation of earthworms for the main purpose of organic waste conversion.

Meanwhile, vermicomposting refers to the process by which cultured earthworms are used to convert organic wastes into naturally nutrient-rich fertilizers. Coral Planting Balinghai engages everyone to take part in their regular coral planting activities. Because of the fact that coral reefs make up the most complex habitats for marine organisms, Balinghai ensures that these beautiful corals are protected from daily human activities. Without these undersea “homes,” marine biodiversity will be threatened and eventually be destroyed. Remember that tropical coral reefs such as in the island of Boracay support a big percentage of the Earth’s total biodiversity.

According to World Wildlife Fund , latest estimates purport that US$30 billion each year are provided by coral reefs in terms of goods and services as such: 1) Fisheries – “An estimated one billion people have some dependence on coral reefs for food and income from fishing.” 2) Tourism – “Sustainably managed coral reef-based tourism can also provide significant alternative or additional sources of income to poorer coastal communities in developing countries.” 3) Coastal Protection – “Coral reefs break the power of the waves during storms, hurricanes, typhoons, and even tsunamis.” 4) Source of Medical Advances – “ust as with tropical forests, we may continue to find the answers to medical problems in the coral reefs – so long as we can keep them healthy.” 5) Intrinsic Value – “For many coastal societies around the world, coral reefs and their inhabitants are intricately woven into cultural traditions.” Wildlife Preservation Guided by the ecological principle that everything is interconnected, Balinghai treats all living things as united. Balinghai promotes the preservation of Boracay’s flora and fauna by taking good care of them and protecting their existence in their own habitat.

As a preserved paradise, Balinghai is concerned with the biodiversity in the island. From majestic tree and flower species to exquisite birds and flying foxes, Balinghai sees to it that every one of them will thrive peacefully and will never go extinct. Renewable Solar Power System Balinghai also utilizes a renewable solar power system in the resort. In line with this, Balinghai has been involved in the research and development of solar power systems since 2009. It is Balinghai’s mission to adapt a cost-efficient, reliable, and sustainable alternative source of energy in Boracay Island and eventually, throughout the Philippines. Aside from using solar panels, Balinghai also makes use of environment-friendly LED lighting.

Question: Vermiculture refers to the cultivation of?
Answer: Earthworms