yavuzyilmaz/cosmetic-ingredients huggingface dataset:
Cocos Nucifera Oil
There is definitely some craze going on for coconut oil both in the healthy eating space (often claimed to be the healthiest oil to cook with but this is a topic for another site) and in the skin and hair care space. We will talk here about the latter two and see why we might want to smear it all over ourselves. Chemically speaking, coconut oil has a unique fatty acid profile. Unlike many plant oils that mostly contain unsaturated fatty acids (fatty acids with double bonds and kinky structure such as linoleic or oleic ), coconut oil is mostly saturated (fatty acids with single bonds only) and its most important fatty acid is Lauric Acid (about 50%).  Saturated fatty acids have a linear structure that can stack nice and tight and hence they are normally solid at room temperature. Coconut oil melts around 25 °C so it is solid in the tub but melts on contact with the skin. The saturated nature of coconut oil also means that it is a heavy-duty-oil ideal for dry skin types . A double-blind research confirmed that extra virgin coconut oil is as effective in treating xerosis (aka very dry skin) as mineral oil . Another study found that coconut oil is more effective than mineral oil in treating mild to moderate atopic dermatitis (aka eczema) in children. So when it comes to dry skin, coconut oil is a goodie, no question there. The question is if it is good or bad for acne-prone skin . Its main fatty acid, Lauric Acid has some research showing that it is a promising ingredient against evil acne-causing bacteria, P. acnes but at the same time, both Lauric Acid and coconut oil have a very high comedogenic rating (4 out of 5). Though comedogenic ratings are not very reliable, anecdotal evidence (i.e. people commenting in forums) shows that people have mixed experiences. While some claim that it worked wonders on their acne others say that it gave them serious blackheads and zits. Try it at your own risk. As for hair care, coconut oil has pretty solid research showing that it can penetrate into the hair very well (better than mineral oil and sunflower oil ) and it can prevent hair protein loss as well as combing damage .  If you have problems with damaged hair, split ends, coconut oil is worth trying as a pre- or/and post-wash treatment. Labmuffin has an awesome blogpost explaining in more detail why coconut oil is good for your hair. A couple of other things worth mentioning: coconut oil might help with wound healing (promising animal study), it has some antifungal activity (against dermatophytes that cause the thing known as ringworm) and it also works as an insect repellent against black flies. Overall , coconut oil is definitely a goodie for the hair and dry skin . If that warrants for the magic oil status it enjoys, we don't know.
Saccharum Officinarum Extract
Also known as Sugarcane, Saccharum Officinarum is a handy moisturizing ingredient mostly used as a humectant. This means that it can help the skin to attract water and then to hold onto it. It bears a close relationship to AHA superstar, Glycolic Acid that can be derived from it, so it's often claimed that Sugarcane Extract itself also exfoliates and brightens the skin. We could not find any research studies to back this up, but Saccharum Officinarum very often comes to the formula combined with other acid containing plant extracts trade named ACB Fruit Mix . According to manufacturer data, 5% of the fruit mix increases cellular renewal by 24%, while 4% pure Glycolic did the same by 33%. So maybe, a tiny bit of exfoliation, but if you want proven efficacy, stick to pure acids.
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
The golden yellow oil coming from the Macadamia nut, a native Australian nut. Similar to other plant oils, it's loaded with emollient and nourishing fatty acids . It's a high oleic acid oil ( 50-67% oleic acid and only 0-5% linoleic acid ) that makes it very emollient and ideal for dry skin types (and less ideal for acne-prone skin). Its unique property is that it contains high amounts of a rare fatty acid called palmitoleic acid (12-25%) that give Macadamia oil a "cushiony" feel. It's also easily absorbed and makes the skin soft and supple.
No Title
Though Algae Extract is an official INCI name, Laminaria Algae Extract is not. Laminaria refers to a group of brown algae commonly called as kelp , but there are 31 species of them, several of wich is used in skin care. In general, Laminaria extracts serve as moisturizing agents with some added benefits (as they contain good for the skin things like mineral salts, trace elements, and vitamins).
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
It's one of those things that help your cosmetics not to go wrong too soon, aka a preservative . Its strong point is being effective against yeasts and molds , and as a nice bonus seems to be non-comedogenic as well. It is safe in concentrations of less than 0.1% but is acutely toxic when inhaled, so it's not the proper preservative choice for aerosol formulas like hairsprays. Used at 0.1%, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate has an extremely low rate of skin-irritation when applied directly for 24 hours (around 0.1% of 4,883 participants) and after 48 hours that figure was 0.5%, so it counts as mild and safe unless your skin is super-duper sensitive.
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
A vegetable-based emulsifier that helps the oily and watery parts of the formula to mix nicely together. It is compatible with a bunch of cosmetic oils as well as active ingredients and its specialty is creating emulsions with super high heat and freeze stability (from -25 °C and +50 °C).
Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract
A subtropical plant that thrives in flooded environments and is claimed to give excellent long-term moisturizing effects . Its hydrating ability is due to the chemical composition of the rhizomes that contain natural osmoprotective compounds such as 3-dimethylsulfoniopropionate (DMSP), potassium, starches, and sugars. Osmoprotective compounds are interesting, skincare-wise, as they are thought to be able to increase intracellular osmosis, meaning water is drawn into the skin cells . According to the efficacy data from the manufacturer, 2% of ABS Imperata Cylindrica Extract (the trade name of the diluted version of the root extract) is able to increase the level of skin moisturization by almost 45%, which is 88% more effective than the untreated control. This all sounds great, however, in terms of comparative effectiveness, Imperata Cylindrica came up somewhat short in the study published in the Journal of cosmetic dermatology. They compared four hydrogels with different moisturizer actives and although all the formulas did hydrate the skin, the one with Imperata Cylindrica extract performed less well than the same formula with urea or sugar-based hydrating trio, called Aquaxyl . Still, it is a skin goodie with nice moisturizing properties, so if you are after skin hydration, it is a good one to spot on the INCI list.
Macrocystis Pyrifera
The extract coming from the giant blown kelp . It contains alginates that give Macrocystis Pyrifera viscosity controlling and thickening properties . Other than that, there is also a manufacturer claim saying that Macrocystis Pyrifera "increases the vitality of epidermal growth, improves collagen synthesis, and maintains skin elasticity ". We wrote some more about algae extract in general here .
No Title
It's not a standard INCI name, but rather a sloppy one. Several kinds of grape extracts are used in cosmetic products, the most well-known is the seed extract , but fruit extract or juice extract also exists.
Glycine Soja Oil
The emollient plant oil coming from the soybean . It is considered to be a nice, cost-effective base oil with moisturizing properties. As for its fatty acid profile, it contains 48-59% barrier-repairing linoleic acid , 17-30% nourishing oleic acid and also some (4.5-11%) potentially anti-inflammatory linolenic acid .
Madecassic Acid
One of the biologically active components of Gotu Kola that is thought to contribute to the plant extract's well-documented skin regenerating, wound healing, and moisturizing properties . If you are into Gotu Kola we have some more info at Centella Asiatica Extract and its other biologically active components Madecassoside , Asiaticoside and Asiatic Acid .
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
A goldish to dark yellow emollient plant oil coming from Sesame seeds. Similar to many other plant oils, it contains high amounts of nourishing and moisturizing fatty acids (about 38% of oleic and 48% of linoleic acid ) and is a nice oil to repair and regenerate dry skin. It is rapidly absorbed and gives the skin a soft and gentle feel.
Dipeptide-2
A tiny peptide with only two amino acids (amino acids are the building block of proteins, and peptides are a few amino acids attached together), Valine and Tryptophan. It's part of a 3 actives complex called Eyeliss (with HMC and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 ) that's supposed to fight under-eye bags . The manufacturer claims that this dipeptide in Eyeliss can increase lymphatic circulation and the three actives together represent a "global approach to treating puffy eyes". The clinical study of the manufacturer with 20 people and 3% Eyeliss showed improvement after 56 days for 70% of the participants.
Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
A clear, odorless, very light emollient ester that helps to achieve light textures. It has great spreadability, a good slip, and a silky skin feel .  It's ideal to solubilize sunscreen agents and fragrances. It's also touted as a volatile (evaporates from the skin rather than absorbs into it) silicone alternative , especially to replace Cyclomethicone mixes .
Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone
This guy - let's just call it simply HMC - is a so-called flavonoid (flavonoids are natural things found it lots of fruits and vegetables). Hesperidin , in particular, is a flavonone and is found in citrus fruits. The methylation of hesperidin gives HMC, that has well-established blood vessel protecting properties and can be found in drugs that treat problems related to blood vessels. As for skincare, there is a mouse study showing HMC has very promising abilities in the "treatment of UVB irradiation-induced skin inflammation and oxidative stress", or English translation = it's an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory . HMC is also part of a 3 active ingredient complex called Eyeliss (with Dipeptide-2 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 ), that's supposed to fight under-eye bags . The manufacturer claims that in their ex-vivo test HMC decreased capillary permeability by 25%. All in all, HMC definitely deserves a goodie status, at least as an antioxidant but it might even do something with under-eye bags.
Sodium Acrylate/​Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
A copolymer is a big molecule that consists not of one but of two repeating subunits. This particular copolymer is a handy helper ingredient to form nice gel textures . It usually comes to the formula combined with emollients (such as  C13-14 Isoparaffin, Isohexadecane, Isononyl Isononanoate or Squalane) and can be used as an emulsifier and/or thickener to produce milky gel emulsions with a soft and non-tacky skin feel.
Lactobacillus/​Nereocystis Luetkeana Ferment Filtrate
A thickish, light tan colored gel that's coming from the fermentation of Bull Kelp (a big brown algae) using lactobacillus. The idea behind the fermentation is that it breaks down the cell walls of the kelp so that the useful stuff inside the cells become bio-available for the skin. Similar to Lactobacillus/Kelp Ferment Filtrate (that is a very-very similar ingredient to this one, but the "base kelp" is a different type), this guy is also a natural film-former and moisturizer . Might also deliver some vitamins and minerals to the skin.
Nigella Sativa Seed Oil
The (fixed or non-volatile) oil coming from the black seeds of Nigella Sativa , a smallish (20-30 cm) flowering plant native to Southwest Asia. The seed has a very complex chemical composition (it contains both fixed and volatile oil) and is used traditionally for a bunch of "anti-something" abilities including antitumor, antidiabetic, antihistaminic, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties . In Islam, black cumin seed was considered "a healing seed for all diseases except death”. As for modern research and chemical composition, the fixed oil from the seeds is rich in skin-nourishing unsaturated fatty acids ( mainly linoleic acid at 50 – 60% and oleic acid at 20%, but also contains some rare ones like C20:2 arachidic and eicosadienoic acids ), amino acids , vitamins, and minerals. A component called thymoquinone (it's the main component of the volatile oil part, but the fixed oil also contains some) is considered to give the seed its main therapeutic properties including strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory abilities . As for black seed oil and cosmetics, the oil is great to nourish and moisturize the skin and is highly recommended to treat inflammatory skin diseases like psoriasis and eczema .
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
The extract coming from the coconut fruit. It is a similar thing to coconut water and fruit juice and is loaded with sugars, minerals, amino acids. It is also claimed to have vitalizing and energizing effects, and some smoothing, emollient and hydrating props. If you are into coconut, we have more details at coconut water and coconut oil .
Disodium Coco-Glucoside Citrate
A cleansing agent that's a combination of citric acid and coco-glucoside. It's almost natural ("nearly natural substance" according to Ecocert standards), readily biodegradable, and very mild and non-irritating to the skin.
Isopropyl Palmitate
A clear, colorless emollient ester (oily liquid from isopropyl alcohol + palmitic acid) that makes the skin nice and smooth. It has very good spreading properties and gives a silky touch to the products.
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
The emollient plant oil coming from the seeds of the white flowering plant called meadowfoam .  Meadowfoam Oil has a unique fatty acid composition with 95% of it being long chain fatty acids ( eicosenoic acid C20:1 - 61%, docosenoic acid C22:1 - 16% and docosadienoic acid C22:2 - 18%) that make the oil extraordinarily stable . It also contains antioxidant components such as vitamin E as well as phytosterols . Apart from Meadowfoam Oil's crazy stability, the oil is described as non-greasy, rapidly absorbed and having a similar skin feel to more often used jojoba oil . The oil is ideal for products where a soft, smooth, silky feel is required whether it be on skin or hair.
Oleyl Erucate
A vegetable-based emollient ester (oleyl alcohol + erucic acid) that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. It has a rich and caring skin feel, very similar to jojoba oil .
Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate
A glycerin and stearic acid based ingredient that helps oil and water to mix nicely together, aka emulsifier .  It is PEG-free and based on renewable raw materials. It usually comes to the formula with its emulsifier buddy, Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate , and the duo is especially recommended for formulating low-viscous serums, lotions, and sprays.  As an added bonus, the duo is also described as providing "outstanding moisturization properties ".
Hydroxyacetophenone
A handy multifunctional ingredient that works as a preservative booster , as well as an antioxidant and soothing agent .
Tris-Biphenyl Triazine
The newest addition to the Tinosorb sunscreen family , a new generation of sunscreen filters that are not available in the US, only in other parts of the world. This one is so new, that it's EU only at the moment (as of 2016). The unique property of Tris-Biphenyl Triazine is that it's the most efficient UVB and UVA2 filter known today . UVA2 (320-340 nm) is a spot that most filters miss, so this guy can help to bridge this common gap and make sunscreen formulas really cover the whole UV spectrum. It's also highly photostable and has high SPF performance at low concentrations. Though it does not provide protection in the UVA1 (340-400 nm) range, it does have a boosting effect there. Similar to Trinosorb M , it is a hybrid agent (between chemical and physical sunscreens) and comes in the form of organic micro fine particles.
Dicaprylyl Ether
A clear, colorless and odorless oily liquid that works as a fast-spreading emollient with a dry skin feel .
Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate
A glycerin and behenic acid based ingredient that stabilizes oil-water mixes , aka emulsions. It usually comes to the formula with Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate , and the duo is helpful for making light serums and lotions. As an added bonus, they also work as a nice emollient and moisturizer .
Hydrogenated Polydecene
A hydrocarbon-based emollient that can come in different viscosities from silky-light through satiny-smooth to luxurious, rich . It forms a non-occlusive film on the surface of the skin and brings gloss without greasiness to the formula. It's a very pure and hypoallergenic emollient that's also ideal for baby care products.
Hydrogenated Castor Oil
A chemically modified version of castor oil that results in a solid, waxy material that serves as an emollient and consistency building material. It also has some unique moisturizing properties as it is both occlusive and humectant .  The former one is common for oils and waxes and it means that it sits on top of the skin hindering water to evaporate out of the top layers. The latter one, the humectant property, is surprising and comes from the unique property of ricinoleic acid (the dominant fatty acid in castor oil)  having an extra water-loving -OH group on its otherwise oil-loving fatty chain. We have some more info about this at castor oil, so if you are interested, read on here .
Steareth-20
A waxy solid material that helps oil and water to mix together, aka emulsifier . It is derived from the fatty alcohol called stearyl alcohol by ethoxylating it and thus making the molecule more water-soluble. The end result is a mostly water-loving emulsifier, also called solubilizer that can help to dissolve small amounts of oil-loving ingredients into water-based products. Or it can be combined with more oil-loving emulsifiers (such as its sister, Steareth-2 ) to create stable emulsions.
Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
The long name covers a nice sunscreen agent and quite a special one at that: It's a " hybrid " sunscreen meaning it's half-way between physical (the ones that, at least partly, reflect the sun ) and chemical agents (that absorb the rays, which most sunscreens do).  It is a new generation UV filter and, just like its sister, Trinosorb S , it is not available in the US. It gives nice broad-spectrum coverage (280-400 nm, meaning UVB as well as UVA protecion) with peak protection at 305 nm and 360 nm and it is highly photostable . It can also help to stabilize other less stable sunscreens, like Octinoxate and is generally happy to work together with other UV-filters. Its hybrid nature means that it is organic like the chemical agents, but it is neither water nor oil soluble and works as a suspension of micro fine particles . If the small particles scare you, we have good news: the safety profile of Tinosorb M is great. It is not absorbed into the skin and unlike some other chemical sunscreens, it does not show estrogenic activity. The downside of its hybrid nature is that - similar to the inorganic sunscreens zinc and titanium dioxide - Tinosorb M also leaves a white cast on the skin that can be bothersome on darker skin tones.
Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Its INCI name is a bit of a mouthful , but Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine is worth recognizing it as it is one of the best sunscreen agents known today . Unfortunately, it's not FDA-approved so you will not find it in sunscreens coming from the US (not because it's not good, but because US regulations make it impossible for newer sunscreen agents to get approved), but it is widely available in other parts of the world like Europe, Australia or Asia. It is a broad-spectrum (covers the whole UVB and UVA range, 280-400 nm) chemical sunscreen agent with peak protections at about 310 and 345 nm and unlike older UV filters, it's very photostable. It hardly deteriorates in the presence of UV light and it's also useful in stabilizing other less stable sunscreen agents, like the famous UVA protector, avobenzone . It's a new generation sunscreen agent that was specifically designed for high SPF and good UVA protection and based on a 2007 study that compared 18 sunscreen agents available in the EU it really had the best SPF protection (they used the highest concentration allowed by EU regulations from each 18 sunscreens and Trinosorb S gave an SPF 20 all by itself). It is an oil-soluble, slightly yellowish powder that is not absorbed into the skin too much. This is good news for a sunscreen agent as it needs to be on the surface of the skin to do its job properly. Regarding Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine side effects, we have good news here as well: it has a great safety profile and unlike a couple of other chemical sunscreens, Trinosorb S (and M) does not show estrogenic activity. Overall, we think Trinosorb S is one of the best sunscreen options available today. Are you into sunscreen agents? We have shiny explanations (along with product lists) about others as well: Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol , aka Tinosorb M, the good buddy of our current molecule Tinosorb S Tris-Biphenyl Triazine , aka Tinosorb A2B, the newest addition to the Tinosorb family that protects strongly in an in-between wavelength that most other filters miss Ethylhexyl Triazone , aka Uvinul T 150, another new generation sunscreen agent with super-high UVB protection Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate , aka Uvinul A Plus, a new generation sunscreen for UVA protection
Copernicia Cerifera Wax
A vegetable wax coming from the leaves of the Brazilian tropical palm tree, Copernicia cerifera. Similar to other waxes, it is used to stabilize and give body to products , or to keep stick type formulas solid. It is the hardest natural wax with a high melting point (around 85C) and high gloss making it a great wax choice for lip products.
Hdi/​Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer
A handy spherical powder that's often combined with fellow spherical powder, Polymethylsilsesquioxane to form a high-performing texturizing duo. The duo is claimed to provide excellent slip, fluidity and overall skin feel and gives soft focus and wrinkle correction to the formula. It also has strong de-tackifying and anti-caking properties.
Mannitol
A type of sugar molecule , that has water-binding properties and helps to keep your skin hydrated .
Glyceryl Behenate
The combination of glycerin + behenic acid that comes either in a fine powder or waxy solid form. Together with the di- and triglyceride of behenic acid , the trio has remarkable gelling properties helping cosmetic chemists to create ultra-soft and non-tacky waterfree gels. They also have great emulsion stabilizing properties, and work as high-performance compacting agents for makeup products that come in the form of pressed powders. It's also vegetable origin, and Ecocert certified.
Glyceryl Dibehenate
The combination of glycerin + two behenic acid molecules that works as an oil-gelling agent, emulsion stabilizer , and high-performance compacting agent in pressed powders. We wrote a bit more at its little sis, glyceryl behenate .
Sorbitan Stearate
A popular, vegetable-derived oil-loving emulsifier that helps water to mix with oil. In itself, it is suitable for water-in-oil emulsions (where water droplets are dispersed in oil), but it is more often used as a co-emulsifier next to other, water-loving emulsifiers. Chemically speaking, it comes from the attachment of sorbitan (a dehydrated sorbitol (sugar) molecule) with the fatty acid Stearic Acid , that creates a partly water (the sorbitan part) and partly oil soluble (stearic part) molecule.
Zinc Stearate
Zinc Stearate is probably the most commonly used binding agent in powder makeup products such as face powders or eyeshadows. It gives very good adherence qualities meaning it helps powders to stick together in the pan and to stick to the skin on application. It is typically used at 3-10%, too much of it though can cause lumpiness or greasiness on the skin.