yavuzyilmaz/cosmetic-ingredients huggingface dataset:
Whey Protein
Protein fragments, aka peptides and growth factors derived from milk (whey). It is claimed to boost the production of important extracellular matrix components (the gooey stuff between the skin cells) such as hyaluronic acid, collagen I and fibronectin. The in-vivo (made on people) tests showed reduced wrinkles and improved firmness within two weeks by using 0.5% of Whey Protein.
SH-Oligopeptide-2
Sh-Oligopeptide-2 is also called Insulin-like growth factor 1 and it belongs to the same group of ingredients (Growth Factors) as its better-known sister, Epidermal Growth Factor or Sh-Oligopeptide-1 . This guy consists of 70 amino acids and, similar to EGF, it is also claimed to stimulate cell proliferation and wound healing . There is also a study that indicates EGF and IGF1 work in synergy to promote keratinocyte (skin cell) proliferation. The topic of Growth Factors in skincare is complex and controversial . If you are new to it, read our shiny explanation on EGF to get a (hopefully) balanced impression about the pros and cons.
4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor
4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor is a chemical sunscreen agent that protects in the UVB range (290-320 nm) with a peak absorbance at 301 nm. It is an oil-soluble powder that is slightly photo-unstable (it takes 65 minutes to lose 10% of its protecting power and 345 minutes to lose half of it), but it can still help to stabilize the famously unstable UVA filter, avobenzone . Regarding its safety, we do not have the best news. Two possible concerns are that it absorbs into the body and might have some estrogenic activity there. But do not panic, the latter one was only shown in rats and is probably not the case in humans. Still, this is a UV filter that is currently being phased out of use. It is not approved in the US and Japan, and the EU also banned it starting in 2026 (however it is approved in Australia up to 4%).
Tripeptide-29
A small, three-amino acid peptide (Glycine-Proline-Hydroxyproline) found naturally in our collagen structure . The theory behind Tripeptide-29 is the following: Collagen is a long sequence of amino acids and breaking it down produces short amino acid sequences, aka peptides. These peptides "signal" to the skin that collagen was lost and that new collagen should be produced. So putting collagen-fragment-identical peptides on the skin might trick it into thinking that new collagen is needed . The unique thing about Tripeptide-29 is that it is not produced by traditional methods such as chemically chopping up collagen as it gives lots of random peptides, but it is produced via modern peptide synthesis (from non-animal and non-GMO sources) that gives it exceptional purity . So Tripeptide-29 is available as a pure powder, unlike most peptides that are available as diluted solutions, which makes it possible to use it in much higher concentrations . This sounds great but there is a catch : the efficacy data from the manufacturer contains only two tests, both in-vitro, aka done in test tubes, not on real people. Based on the lab test, 3% Tripeptide-29 can increase collagen type I synthesis by 400% after 48 hours. However, if anything happens when Tripeptide-29 is applied on real human skin is a good question with no answer (at least we could not find one). Overall, the theory is nice, but the proof is missing. If you are into peptides and experimenting, this sure sounds interesting but if you like the tried and true this one is not for you.
Polyglyceryl-10 Behenate/​Eicosadioate
A pale yellow, waxy solid (chemically an ester of decaglycerin and a blend of behenic and eicosadioic acids) that works as an alcohol gelling agent and as a t hickener and stabilizer for oil-in-water preparations.
PEG-12 Glyceryl Dimyristate
A type of lipid that is used in liposome technology. It has a special chemical structure (a water-loving PEG head with two oil-loving tails) that allows forming thermodynamically stable liposomes . This means when Peg-12 Glyceryl Dimyristate is mixed with water it forms tiny bilayered circles (with an active ingredient in the middle of it) spontaneously. This is useful both for stabilizing unstable ingredients (such as pure Vitamin C) as well as for solubilizing difficult ingredients (such as cholesterol).
Ethylhexyl Benzoate
Ethylhexyl Benzoate is a clear, almost colorless, oily liquid with a light and dry skin feel . But it is not only a nice and light emollient but also an excellent solubilizer for hard-to-dissolve sunscreen agents.
Copper Chlorophyll
A modified version of the oil-soluble, natural colorant, Chlorophyll that gives blue/green shades . Compared to Chlorophyll, Copper Chlorophyll has improved stability and brightness.
Cocos Nucifera Shell Powder
The powder of the finely ground shells of the Coconut. It comes in different sizes and is used as a scrub .
Ornithine
Ornithine is an amino acid that is the active ingredient in the skin-plumping active trade named Adipofill'In. According to the manufacturer , Adipofill'In is able to increase fatty tissue volume by activating the transcription factor called HIF-1α and thus it has a lipofilling -like effect through a non-invasive method. It is supposed to be an especially useful active for deep wrinkles, such as the nasolabial fold (the wrinkle between the nose and mouth). In their in-vivo test made with 20 volunteers using 2% Adipofill'In cream twice a day for 60 days, the manufacturer measured up to 37.6% reduction of wrinkle depth and up to 27.5% reduction of skin roughness.
Isopentyldiol
A water-soluble, colorless, odorless humectant liquid that makes your skin nice and smooth (aka emollient) and gives a dry, non-tacky skin feel. It also has great instant and some longer-lasting moisturizing effect and works in synergy with fellow moisturizer, sorbitol .
Sodium Methyl Oleoyl Taurate
A sulfate-free, mild cleansing agent that is used next to other cleansing agents (aka co-surfactant) mainly as a foam booster and viscosity builder .
Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide MEA
A bio - mimetic ceramide molecule that is claimed to be similarly effective as ceramide 3 at moisturizing the skin and helping the barrier function. We have more about ceramides here . The advantages of Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide MEA are a lower melting point and hence easier formulation and better price point than real ceramides.
Hamamelis Virginiana Bark/​Leaf/​Twig Extract
The extract coming from witch hazel that has astringent, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and anti-bacterial properties. We have written in way more details about Hamamelis Virginiana Extract here >>
Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract
Out of the more than 900 Citrus species known today, Citrus Unshiu is a seedless, easy to peel tangerine coming from the Japanese town Satsuma. The peel extract used in cosmetics is mainly created from the "press-cake", the by-product of the juice industry and as it turns out, what's waste to one industry is a useful ingredient to another. In cosmetics, the main thing of the Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract is being a skin-brightening or whitening agent . In-vitro (made in test tubes) and animal studies both show promising results for inhibiting tyrosinase, the famous enzyme regulating melanin production. It also contains antioxidant components such as carotenoids, coumarins,  limonoids, and flavonoids that might be useful for the skin to protect itself from UV caused damages. The downside of citrus peel extracts (that prevents our goodie rating) is that they usually contain some amount of essential oil components, though the amount is probably way too low to worry about unless you're super-duper sensitive.
Ceresin
A hydrocarbon wax produced by the purification of another hydrocarbon wax , ozokerite . Similar to ozokerite, it is mostly used in stick type products to keep them nice and solid .
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water
The much-much diluted version of the famous Tea Tree Essential Oil , the so-called hydrosol that is created as a by-product of steam-distillation used for producing essential oils. In general, hydrosols contain the same components as their big sister essential oil but in way-reduced concentrations. We have seen a specification saying 99% of the tea tree water is water, and about 1% consists of very small amounts of the dissolved essential oil and the water-soluble parts of the tea tree leaves. So tea tree water might have some soothing, antibacterial and anti-acne properties but much less strong than the essential oil .
Cetyl Lactate
Cetyl Lactate is a multipurpose emollient that gives the formula a nice slip and makes your skin silky and smooth. It is also claimed to reduce tackiness and greasiness in the formulation.
Lauryl Methacrylate/​Sodium Methacrylate Crosspolymer
A synthetic copolymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) that is used as a slip and surface modifier . It is claimed to give sunscreen formulas long-lasting, lightweight and non-sticky properties.
Acacia Decurrens/​Jojoba/​ Sunflower Seed Wax Polyglyceryl-3 Esters
A 100% plant-based moisturizing and texturizing agent that is based on the transesterification of Sunflower, Jojoba, and Mimosa waxes. The resulting material is a soft, smooth butter halfway between liquid emollients and solid butters. It has similar emollient and moisturizing properties to lanolin , however, it is much more compatible with water in oil emulsions. 5% of the wax ester makes it possible to include up to 15% water into traditionally water-free formulas such as lip balms or massage oils.
Polyamide-8
A so-called organogellant (a gelling agent that likes organic compounds such as oils) that helps to increase the viscosity of the oils phase in the formula.
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid
A L'Oréal-group exclusive sunscreen agent commonly called Mexoryl SX. As opposed to most sunscreen agents, it is water soluble and protects in the UVA range with a peak absorbance at 345 nm.
Retinyl Retinoate
Retinyl Retinoate (RR) is a less well known but super interesting member of the retinoids (vitamin A derivatives), aka the "royal family of skincare".  Unless you live under a skincare-news-shielding rock, you must have heard about tretinoin , the FDA-approved anti-aging superstar, and retinol , the most common OTC version of tretinoin. You can read more about whos-who in the retinoid family here . Enter Retinyl Retinoate, a molecule that is created by attaching retinol to retinoic acid . The attachment makes the molecule more stable (pure retinol is unstable and hard to formulate) as well as more active . If you read our shiny description about retinol you will know that it is not active and has to be converted by our metabolic machinery to become retinoic acid, the biologically active molecule. The conversion is not very effective and takes two steps. Retinyl Retinoate also has to be converted , but in the first step , our cells break up the molecule to become retinoic acid (the active) and retinol , meaning that it becomes active both after the first conversion step as well as later on once retinol is further converted. The Korean research group, who invented the molecule, did several studies published in well-respected journals to prove that Retinyl Retinoate has better anti-aging activity than retinol . In marketing materials, RR is often touted to be 8 times as active as retinol, but as far as research goes we can cite that  " the biological activity of retinyl retinoate was in between the properties of retinol and retinoic acid. Retinyl retinoate showed higher biological activity than that of retinol, such as RAR activity and collagen synthesis. Also, retinyl retinoate showed a similar side-effect to that of retinol, and not retinoic acid ." As for in-vivo, aka done on real people studies, there is one from 2010 that compares 0.06% Retinyl Retinoate to placebo and to 0.075% retinol. The conclusion of this study was that 0.06% RR is "significantly" more effective than placebo or retinol , and RR also had a faster-acting effect. Another study (in test tubes + mouse skin) concluded that RR increases the Hyaluronic acid production more than other retinoids and is also less of an irritant . RR shows promise for treating acne . In an 8 week, double-blind clinical study, 0.05% retinyl retinoate "showed a significant decrease in both inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions, and in sebum amount". It even had some activity against P.acnes that makes it a promising ingredient for acne prone skin, especially when combined with other actives. Overall , we find Retinyl Retinoate a very interesting and promising member of the retinoid family. It is not as proven as good old retinol (the multiple studies on RR come from the same research guys), but it promises several advantages (more stable, more active, less irritating), so we say that if you like retinoids, RR is worth trying.
Aristotelia Chilensis Oil
Maqui Berries are small, dark berries , similar to better-known blackberries, that grow natively in the temperate rainforests of Chile . The fruit is touted as a "superfruit" rich in antioxidant anthocyanins and other phenolics. The oil is a dark green liquid that, similar to other plant oils, is loaded with unsaturated fatty acids (86%) such as nourishing oleic acid (33%) and barrier-repairing linoleic acid (46%). We could not find any other research-verified info about Maqui Oil, though some websites claim that it is rich in Vitamin E and is generally a strong antioxidant oil.
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate is a variation of current IT moisturizer, Hyaluronic acid , where some water-loving -OH groups are replaced by amphipathic (partly water-loving and partly water-hating) acetyl groups. The modified molecule is claimed to have even better moisture retention ability than normal HA and better affinity to the skin surface. The better affinity comes from the acetyl groups that act as tiny "anchors" to attach the HA molecule to the skin. Staying on top of the skin better and longer means longer-lasting surface hydration and improved elasticity . It is also less sticky and more cosmetically elegant than normal HA, so no wonder the nickname of this molecule is super hyaluronic acid.
Polyglyceryl-10 Eicosanedioate/​Tetradecanedioate
An oily liquid (ester) that is not oil-soluble (as most other esters), but water soluble . It has nice emollient and skin moisturizing properties, and an elegant skin-feel. It can also reduce the stickiness of glycerin and oils in the formula.
Polypropylsilsesquioxane
Polypropylsilsesquioxane is a silicone resin that forms a flexible, durable film on the skin. The film is resistant to wash-off and rub-off and is useful for creating long-lasting makeup products and sunscreens.
Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone
A nature-identical (but synthetic) molecule that copies a phyto-active found in grains of paradise , a spice from the ginger family. It is claimed to be a 4-in-1 active with potent topical & cellular antioxidant, anti-irritant, and hyaluronic acid booster activity, however, the manufacturer did only some in-vitro and ex-vivo (as in nothing done on real people... ) tests to back up these claims.
Hydrogen Dimethicone
A silicone molecule that is half-way between Dimethicone and Methicone , meaning that some of the methyl (-CH3) groups are replaced with a hydrogen atom (in Methicone half of the CH3 groups are replaced). This makes Hydrogen Dimethicone a handy pigment bonding agent used for the hydrophobization treatment of powders as the H atoms can absorb traces of water from the surface of pigments. It almost always comes stuck together with either Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide or Mica. In suncare products, it binds to physical UV filters to maximize their protection while minimizing any white casts. It also has good chemical stability with no irritation. In makeup, it is often paired with Mica where it offers nice hydrophobic properties and improves skin adhesion - meaning it will make it easier for products to stay where they should be.
Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate
An emollient ester giving a long-lasting lubricious skin feel.
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3
A relatively new, four amino acid peptide that promises to help combat hair loss alongside red clover extract as part of the trademarked technology Capixyl . The main thing of  Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3 is to stimulate the synthesis of key Extra Cellular Matrix (aka ECM, the gooey stuff between cells that make up the framework of our skin) components in the scalp.  According to the manufacturer’s lab studies, the expression of type III collagen increased by 65% and the expression of laminins (anchoring proteins found in the ECM) was up a massive 285%, resulting in a stronger ECM bed for hair anchoring . Together with red clover extract , the duo has a synergistic action and works to combat hair loss thanks to a neat multi-faceted approach: it not only stimulates important ECM components but also inhibits the DHT-causing 5-a-reductase enzyme (DHT is the annoying hormone largely responsible for male pattern baldness) and reduces micro-inflammation around hair follicles . The manufacturer’s study over 4 months showed the total impact of Capixyl was an increased anagen (growth phase)/telogen (resting phase) ratio of +46%, resulting in significantly denser hair. All in all , Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3 is a promising ingredient in the fight against hair loss, but as the only results we could find were from the manufacturer, take these claims with a pinch of salt until more research is done.
Acrylates/​Dimethicone Copolymer
A polymer molecule (big molecule from repeated subunits) whose main thing is being a film-former . It is often dissolved in a volatile carrier fluid that evaporates from the skin leaving a nice, flexible film with great water, oil and abrasion resistance , oxygen permeability, and long-lasting cosmetic effect . These properties are especially useful for sun protection formulas and long-lasting foundations.
No Title
A bacteria species that can ferment plant oils by producing enzymes and is used to create "fermented oils". The fermentation process produces various types of polysaccharides and lipids and increases the free fatty acid content of the oils. Fermented oils also tend to have quicker skin absorption, a less-greasy skin feeling and are easier to mix with water, aka emulsify. Pseudozyma Epicola in itself is not a valid INCI name, it should be part of a longer name coupled with some oils and/or plant extracts that were fermented using the bacteria. See more here >>
Mannose
Mannose is one of the many sugar molecule s out there and similar to the other ones, it works as a great humectant and moisturizer in cosmetic products.
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
The famous or rather infamous SLS (not to be confused with SLES ). It is a cleansing agent known for being too good at the job and potentially irritating the skin. But, on the positive side,  it can produce copious, creamy and luxurious foam compared to the more gentle and thus nowadays much more commonly used Sodium Laureth Sulfate . In fact, SLS is so good at irritating the skin that it is very commonly used in dermatological studies just for that. It is a so-called "primary irritant", a substance that irritates the skin in one go (without prior sensitization) but doesn't do any other big harm (such as being carcinogenic or systematically toxic - those claims are not true). Also, the formula can greatly influence the irritating potential of SLS, and mixing it with other cleaning agents makes it milder . If it's not in a cleanser, it works as an emulsifier or even as a penetration enhancer for active materials.
C30-45 Alkyl Dimethicone
A silicone wax that functions as a thickening agent and also gives great lubricity and skin feel.
Benzophenone-5
Benzophenone-5 is the sodium salt brother of Benzophenone-4 , and just like that guy, this one also works mainly as a photoprotectant to extend product shelf life , or as a color-protectant for products in clear packages.
Sodium Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonate
The salt form of the water-soluble chemical sunscreen , Ensulizole . What we wrote there ( UVB filter with a peak protection at 306 nm), applies here as well. In fact, the pure acid form (aka Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid) can be incorporated into a sunscreen formula only if it is neutralized with a base (otherwise it is not water-soluble), so even if the acid form in on the ingredient list, what you have in the formula is a salt form, just like this one. You can read more here >>
Coptis Japonica Root Extract
The extract coming from the root of the traditional medicinal herb, Coptis Japonica or Japanese Goldthread . The plant is used traditionally in East Asia for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antimicrobial abilities. Other than that, there is also an abstract from the International Journal of Cosmetic Science that found Coptis Japonica Root Extract and its active component called berberine to show potent inhibition of triglyceride (aka fat) accumulation and subcutaneous preadipocytes (the cells that become later fat cells) differentiation meaning that Goldthread Extract might also be useful in slimming and anti-cellulite products .
Caffeyl Glucoside
The water-soluble, stabilized, and purified version of the famous antioxidant molecule, caffeic acid (caffeic acid attached to the sugar molecule, glucose), the main phyto-active of green coffee. Caffeyl Glucoside is also claimed to have a strong anti-inflammatory and photoprotective effect .
Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14
Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14 is the payload peptide (a short chain of amino acids) in the encapsulated copper peptide technology trade named X50 Antiaging. The delivery system (called The Cosmetic Drone) is a high-tech capsule where our peptide is wrapped in a biocompatible polymer shell (created from Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol) and another peptide , which has an affinity to the fibroblast receptors, sits on the outside of the capsule and guides it to the right place in the skin. The right place in this case is the fibroblast cell (the important collagen-producing cell in the dermis), so once Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14 is there, it promotes the gene expression of both collagen and elastin . According to the 30-person in-vivo (made on real humans) test of the manufacturer, the participants experienced an average of 33% reduction in wrinkles and 19% increase in elasticity in 28 days. Thanks to the advanced delivery system, the active works at the tiniest concentration of 0.001%. Fun fact: the unit of sale for the X50 Antiaging powder is not kg as all other actives but it is g, this is how little you need from it.
Rosmarinyl Glucoside
The water-soluble, stabilized and bio-available version of rosmarinic acid (rosmarinic acid attached to the sugar molecule, glucose), the active super component in Rosemary . It is known for its potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. According to manufacturer's info , it not only inhibits important inflammation pathways, but it also protects important ECM (Extra Cellular Matrix - the gooey stuff between the skin cells) components, such as collagen and hyaluronic acid . Both are done by inhibiting evil enzymes that attack these important skin building blocks, such as famous collagen-destroying enzyme MMP, and HA eating enzyme hyaluronidase.
Polysilicone-15
A silicone-based, chemical sunscreen agent that protects the skin in the UVB range (290-320 nm) with a peak absorbance at 312 nm. It is a colorless to pale yellow liquid with nice and non-shiny (at least compared to most other sunscreens) sensorial properties. It is a pretty good team player and can stabilize the famously unstable UVA filter, avobenzone and works especially well with Ensulizole to achieve high SPF protection. It is approved up to 10% as a sunscreen filter in the EU and most parts of the world, except for the United States.
Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide
A  big sugar molecule coming from the edible fruit bodies of the Silver Ear mushroom in China . Its sugar constituents include Glucuronic acid , the same guy that is one of the building blocks of IT-moisturizer Hyaluronic Acid . It is claimed to have similarly awesome water-binding capacities meaning it works as an excellent skin moisturizer and humectant . We have more info about Tremella Fuciformis here >>