yavuzyilmaz/cosmetic-ingredients huggingface dataset:
Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate
Though its name does not reveal it, this molecule is a relative of famous IT-moisturizer, Hyaluronic Acid . Just like HA, it is a glycosaminoglycan (aka GAG), meaning that it is a big sugar molecule from repeated subunits (what's more, one of the subunits is the same, glucuronic acid). Along with HA and other GAGs, it likes to hang out in the dermis (middle) layer of the skin where it is part of the gooey, bouncy stuff outside of the cells called extracellular matrix (ECM). As for skincare, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate is probably too big to go right into the dermis (though much smaller than HA with 5000-50 000 Da molecular weight), but it has a comparable water binding ability to HA (which means a crazy water binding ability) and better affinity for the skin surface . This means that it forms a nice, water-rich film on the skin bringing an immediate and strong moisturising effect.
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/​PVP Crosspolymer
A polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) that improves the film-forming and aesthetic (no tacky after-feel) properties of sunscreen formulas . It also boosts SPF values, in some cases by as much as 70%, at least according to the manufacturer .
No Title
The trade name of the algae extract coming from the green micro-algae called Dunaliella salina . It's claimed to have " outstanding skin energizing properties" and to be able to give a "radiant and luminous looking skin". Read way more about Algae Extracts in cosmetics here >>
Glycol Distearate
A so-called diester created from two stearic acid molecules and an ethylene glycol molecule. Its main thing is being an opacifier and pearling agent in cleansing products making them white and glossy. It can also give body to creams and emulsions.
Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide
An amino acid ( L-Glutamic acid) based oil gelling agent that magically turns liquid oils into nice gels.
Homosalate
An oil-soluble chemical sunscreen agent that protects the skin from UVB (295-315 nm) with a peak protection at 306 nm. Homosalate is not a strong UV filter in and of itself (gives only SPF 4.3 protection at max. allowed 10% concentration) and it is not photostable (looses 10% of its SPF protection in 45 mins) so it always has to be combined with other sunscreens for proper protection. Its big advantage, though, is that it is a liquid and is excellent for dissolving other hard to solubilize powder sunscreen agents, like the famous Avobenzone . Regarding Homosalate's safety profile, we do not have the best news. In-vitro (made in the labs) studies have shown that it might have some estrogenic activity. Do not panic, these studies were not conducted on real humans under real world conditions. Still, if you are a 'better safe than sorry' type, be careful when using Homosalate containing sunscreens long-term and full-body. As of 2020, Homosalate is permitted to be used up to 10% in the EU and 15% in the US, but the EU is currently considering restricting it to only 1.4% (probably taking effect from 2022).
PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate is a popular water-in-oil (w/o) emulsifier , meaning that it helps the oily and watery parts of the formula to mix in a way where water droplets are dispersed in the continuous oil phase and not the other way round. Compared to the more commonly used oil-in-water (o/w) emulsions, w/o emulsions tend to be heavier and less cosmetically elegant, but PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate is claimed to help with this and enables a light and elegant skin feel . It also has a molecular structure that creates large anchors both in the water and in the oil phase making the resulting emulsion not only cosmetically elegant but also very stable.
Diethylhexyl Carbonate
A very low viscosity and high spreadability emollient fluid that gives a nice light skin feel. It can also be used to solubilize crystalline actives such as chemical UV filters.
Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate
A soft, mild cleansing agent with amphoteric structure meaning that its head contains both a positively and a negatively charged part (surfactants are most commonly anionic meaning their head has a negative charge).  It also has great foaming abilities and is recommended for baby products and other non-irritating cleansers.
Bis-Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate
A clear, colorless liquid that gives advanced protection for the skin lipids and truly photostabilizes UV filters , at least according to its manufacturer . It's as effective of an antioxidant as pure Vitamin E, aka tocopherol and as stable as its esterified version tocopheryl acetate . It's claimed to efficiently and continuously work over 24 hours by a continuous three-phase mechanism: it dims oxidative stress, builds up protection from ROS (evil free radicals) and prevents the formation of further reactive species. If that would not be enough, it also seems to be a promising ingredient for acne prevention . In an in-vivo test on 22 volunteers, a 2% Bis-Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate formula decreased skin oiliness by 20% after 8 weeks of treatment, and skin inflammation and redness also improved by 25%.
Ci 75120
A natural, soluble colorant (aka dye) that comes from the seeds of the annatto bush. It gives an orange hue .
Glyceryl Acrylate/​Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer is the fancy word for a common polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits), namely polyacrylic acid (aka carbomer when it comes to cosmetics) with glycerin attached to it in some places. The main thing of this polymer is that it forms a hydrogel (trade named Lubrajel) that can sit on top of the skin and provide moisturizing, water-soluble ingredients such as glycerin to the skin . Think of it as a very thin, wet sponge that a cosmetic manufacturer can fill with good ingredients for your skin. It also works as a thickening agent (remember, it is a carbomer type of molecule), and can provide the skin with a nice slippery feel. It can also draw water to the skin (thank you, pendant glycerol groups!), providing skin hydration. Also, don’t let people scare you into thinking polyacrylic acid is dangerous because of the toxicity of acrylic acid. Since acrylic acid is dangerous due to its ability to absorb into the skin (since it’s small), when you chain them together into a polymer (which is big), this danger is no longer significant.
Arnica Montana Extract
A nice yellow flower living in the mountains that's famously used to treat bruisings. Its role in skincare is questionable though. Read more here >>
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
A glycerin-derived gentle cleansing agent that is described as being skin and eye-friendly, and not leaving the skin dry or tight. It's also used as a co-emulsifier or solubilizer that helps to blend small amounts of oily things into water-based products.
Citrus Nobilis Oil
The essential oil coming from the whole plant of the Mandarin Orange . In general, the main component of citrus oils is limonene , a super common fragrant ingredient that makes everything smell nice (but counts as a frequent skin sensitizer).  The majority of the essential oil is in the peel , but the leaf also contains some with slightly different chemical composition. Both the peel and the leaf oil contains some phototoxic compounds (the leaf oil contains methyl-N-methyl anthranilate), so it's a good idea not to use Mandarin Orange Oil containing products during the day.
Methoxycinnamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine
A colorless, odorless liquid that works as a water-soluble UVB filter with a peak protection of 306 nm. Chemical sunscreen agents are typically oil-soluble so being water-soluble is unique and it makes it possible to create cosmetically elegant, non-oily, non-tacky, silky and smooth feeling formulas. It is also used as a color protectant in hair care formulations . We could not figure out its regulatory status as a sunscreen agent, though. Its manufacturer only says it's registered "as a new cosmetic ingredient in the EU", but it is probably not an officially approved sunscreen filter (yet).
Citrus Grandis Peel Oil
The essential oi l coming from the rind of the grapefruit . In general, the main component of citrus peel oils is limonene (86-95% for grapefruit peel), a super common fragrant ingredient that makes everything smell nice (but counts as a frequent skin sensitizer). Other than that, citrus peel also contains the problematic compound called furanocoumarin that makes them mildly phototoxic . In general, the more sour-bitter the fruit, the more problematic it is regarding phototoxicity: orange and clementine peel contain less of it while lemon, grapefruit, and bergamot contain some more. Be careful with it if it is in a product for daytime use.
Schisandra Sphenanthera Fruit Extract
A species of Schisandra berry that's used as a traditional Chinese Medicine for thousands of years. According to manufacturer info ,  it's used for stressed, sensitive and hyper reactive skin and has anti-irritant, anti-oxidative and anti-inflammatory properties. A research paper we found on Schisandra does confirm that the fruit has antioxidant properties, and is traditionally used to treat and prevent hyperproliferative and inflammatory skin diseases (like psoriasis).
Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/​Leaf/​Stem Oil
Read more about lavender essential oil in cosmetics here >>
Caramel
The caramel in cosmetics is pretty much the same one that you know from the kitchen. It is derived by controlled heat treatment of food-grade carbohydrates (sugars) and works as a brown colorant .
Diheptyl Succinate
Diheptyl Succinate is a natural, "silicone-alternative" emollient that usually comes to the formula with Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer . The two together is trade-named LexFeel N and depending on their ratio, the duo can mimic both super light, Cyclomethicone -type skin feel as well as more viscous Dimethicone like skin feel. The duo also plays well with pure natural oils, and it can reduce their greasiness and tackiness and make them feel nicer on the skin. LexFeel N is also very eco-friendly, 100% natural (Ecocert approved) , sustainable and biodegradable.
Capryloyl Glycerin/​Sebacic Acid Copolymer
The friend of Diheptyl Succinate as the duo is usually used together and is touted as a natural silicone alternative . Read more there >>
Drometrizole Trisiloxane
A L'Oréal-group exclusive sunscreen agent that was invented in 1999 and is commonly called Mexoryl XL. It is an oil-soluble, photostable chemical sunscreen with both UVB and UVA protection with peak absorbance at 303 nm (UVB) and at 344 nm (UVA).
Butane
A colorless and odorless gas used as a propellant in cosmetic products that come in a spray form.
Candelilla/​Jojoba/​Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters
A natural emulsifier that helps oil and water to nicely mix together. It is claimed to bring a silicone-feel to natural formulations and to give an ultra-soft texture and cushion touch . It is a natural wax derivative (from rice bran, candelilla, and jojoba waxes) that also has some moisturizing properties as it can retain 6 times its own weight in water, forming a water cushion on the skin.
Raspberry Seed Oil/​Tocopheryl Succinate Aminopropanediol Esters
This long-named thing comes from the enzymatic biocatalysis of Raspberry Seed Oil and a Vitamin E derivative and is claimed by its manufacturer to be able to repair injured skin and restore a healthy barrier function (so that the skin is healthy and hydrated again). The manufacturer did some in-vivo (made on real people) studies to show that 1% Vitaskin-E cream did indeed decrease Trans-Epidermal-Water-Loss and reduced cracks and scales on dry lips better than placebo.
Steareth-2
A waxy solid material that helps oil and water to mix together, aka emulsifier . It is derived from the fatty alcohol, stearyl alcohol by ethoxylating it and thus making the molecule a little water-soluble. This version has only a small amount of ethoxylation and thus the molecule is still largely oil soluble. It is often mixed with more water-soluble emulsifiers (such as Steareth-20 ) to create stable emulsion systems.
Soluble Collagen
Soluble Collagen refers to the big, natural collagen molecules mostly extracted from fish or bovine skin . Spotting collagen on the ingredient list, you might think that, aha , this must be there to supplement the collagen content of our own skin, but you have to know that collagen is a huge-huge molecule that cannot absorb to the middle layer of the skin where collagen is and even if it could, it cannot just magically go the right places to become part of the skin's own collagen network. Putting collagen on your skin for anti-aging purposes is like throwing tent poles onto a ramshackle tent and expecting the tent to magically become nice and firm again. The strong point of collagen is being a large molecule with tremendous water binding capacity , i.e. an amazing humectant and moisturizer . It produces a water-rich film on the skin giving the stratum corneum (the uppermost layer of the skin) great hydration, making it nice and smooth and reducing trans-epidermal-water loss (the process of water evaporating out of your skin). It is also so gentle and non-irritant that it can actually be used in cleansers to reduce the irritating potential of harsh surfactants , aka cleansing agents. If you are fine with animal-derived ingredients and know that collagen in a jar has nothing to do with wrinkles but everything to do with skin hydration , Soluble Collagen is a nice ingredient.
C10-30 Cholesterol/​Lanosterol Esters
A clear, pale yellow oil-like liquid that's claimed to be similar to the lipids that are naturally in the outermost layer of the skin.  It's not only similar to them but it is also biomimetic, meaning that it can mimic the functionality of our skin lipids . The skin lipids play a super important role in maintaining a healthy skin barrier and keeping the skin nice and moisturized and not dry or cracked.  So C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters, aka Super Sterol Liquid can do something similar: it is an extremely efficient emollient that can repair even dry hands or cracked lips and it is great at maintaining a healthy skin barrier. A goodie for super dry skin.
Hexylresorcinol
A molecule that is naturally present in the bran of rye and other cereals. It has been used for a long time in the food industry as an "anti-browning agent" for fresh-cut fruits or shrimps. It turns out that Hexylresorcinol works as an "anti-browning agent" also in cosmetic products. It is a pretty well-researched molecule with significant tyrosinase (the famous enzyme needed to produce melanin) inhibiting abilities . The clinical study of the manufacturer showed that 0.5% Hexylresorcinol has a comparable skin-lightening effect to gold-standard, 2% Hydroquinone. Even better, a 12-weeks, double-blind, placebo-controlled study with 65 volunteers confirmed the effectiveness of our skin-lightening molecule and it measured an average of 88% skin-lightening improvement . The study also included before and after photos (always a good sign!) and the skin-lightening was indeed visible and significant (though the pigmentation spots did not completely disappear, just so you have realistic expectations).
Glyceryl Laurate
A glycerin and lauric acid derived multi-functional ingredient that works as a co-emulsifier (helps water and oil to mix together next to other emulsifiers), emollient (makes skin nice and smooth) and anti-microbial agent (preservative booster). It also has some thickening and refatting properties in cleansing formulas.
Tetrapeptide-17
A peptide sequence based on skin's own structure that's claimed to minimize the appearance of wrinkles , boost collagen production and reduce skin roughness.
Oligopeptide-68
A skin-brightening peptide that is claimed to have a unique mechanism of action on lightening both constitutive (our default skin color) and facultative (such as tanning) pigmentation. It works by inhibiting the MITF gene that plays an important role in controlling melanin producing skin cells called melanocytes. In the in-vivo (made on real people) test of the manufacturer, 23 Asian volunteers used a 5% ß-White formula for 56 days twice a day and 87% reported a more uniform skin tone and 91% felt that their skin was brighter than before. As for research, we found one study from 2016 that combined Oligopeptide-68 with sunscreen and another skin-lightening active called Diacetyl Boldine (DAB). The conclusion was that "combination of DAB serum at night and DAB/TGF-β1 biomimetic oligopeptide-68/sunscreen cream in the morning and at noon was effective and safe for facial melasma . They were superior to HQ in pigment reduction."  HQ refers to the famous Hydroquinone that's the gold-standard skin-lightening ingredient, so having comparable or superior results is a very promising outcome. Overall , if you are into skin-lightening or fading pigmentation spots, Oligopeptide-68 might be something to try.
Algin
A large sugar molecule (aka polysaccharide) that's used as a gelling agent and comes from brown seaweed. Combined with calcium salts, it forms a rigid gel used in "rubber masks".
Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3
A four amino acid, biomimetic (i.e. a molecule in nature is copied synthetically in a lab) peptide that copies a growth factor that boosts the production of key components of the dermal-epidermal junction (the place where the top two layers of the skin meet). These key components are important skin-structure giving proteins such as collagen VII, laminin-5, and fibronectin. What this means in practice, and according to the in-vivo (made on people) tests of the manufacturer , is that Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3 might be able to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles . The clinical study had 27 volunteers who used a 2.5%  ChroNOline (the diluted and trade named version of our peptide molecule) cream twice a day and the researchers measured a 16% percent reduction in fine lines and wrinkles after 28 days. In mature volunteers (aged 50-65 ), the improvement continued to a reduction of 27% after 56 days.
Zinc Gluconate
If you are fighting acne and have looked into oral supplements, chances are that zinc gluconate sounds familiar to you. It is a zinc salt that has research proving it to be effective against inflammatory acne , though not quite as effective as the antibiotic minocycline (31.2% vs. 63.4% success rate). However, zinc supplements are easily available, have little-to-no side effects, so supplementing them with a 30mg per day dose can still be a good idea. As for smearing zinc gluconate all over your face, it is also not a bad idea. Zinc has multiple magic abilities: it is antibacterial (including evil, acne-causing P. acnes) and sebum-regulating (5α-reductase inhibitor), great for acne-prone skin types. It also stimulates antioxidant enzyme systems (mainly superoxide dismutase ) and has nice wound healing abilities acting mainly in the first, proliferation phase. So great for skin types in need of healing and soothing. What about the gluconate part? It is there to promote the absorption and bioavailability of zinc and also plays a role in cellular regeneration (involved in the synthesis of ribose sugars, structural components of DNA and RNA).
Dimethylacrylamide/​Acrylic Acid/​Polystyrene Ethyl Methacrylate Copolymer
This long-named thing is a big molecule that works as a film-forming and viscosity controlling agent . It often comes together with Polysilicone-11 ,  a silicone elastomer to create "water-coated silicone technology" that makes the incorporation of oil-loving silicone elastomers easy into water-based formulas.
Melaleuca Leucadendron Cajuputi Leaf Oil
The essential oil coming from a tree that belongs to the same family as more skincare-famous Melaleuca Alternifolia, aka Tea Tree . The main component of the Cajeput Oil is 1,8-Cineole (about 65%), that has antiviral, antimicrobial as well as penetration enhancer abilities. On the con side, topical use of 1,8-Cineole has local irritant properties and can induce edema so the pros might not worth the cons especially if your skin is sensitive.
Leptospermum Scoparium Branch/​Leaf Oil
The essential oil coming from the Manuka tree native to New Zealand. It is distantly related to the Australian Tea Tree Oil , although their chemical composition is very different. The main antibacterial active in tea tree oil is terpinen-4- ol (40%), while manuka's main actives are so-called cyclic triketones, such as Leptospermone, Iso-leptospermone, and Flavesone (20-30%). Both oils are antibacterial and antifungal but in different ways. While tea tree oil is a pretty well established anti-acne ingredient, manuka has more of a "might be useful" status for problem skin. Its strong suit is treating fungal infections such as athlete's foot, nail bed infections or foot odor. Other than that, manuka can help to relax muscles (useful for treating muscle and joint pain) and also has some antioxidant activity.
Sorbitan Caprylate
A handy multi-functional helper ingredient that helps water and oil to mix (aka emulsifier ), helps to thicken up a formula and boosts the effectiveness of traditional preservatives .
No Title
The trade name for a peptide complex that is claimed to "boost the dermal-epidermal junction" (DEJ) and thus result in firmer and younger looking skin.
Hesperidin
Hesperidin is an active compound coming from the peel and membranes of citrus fruits. It is a flavonoid with small but promising studies showing antiinflammatory, antioxidant, skin-brightening and skin barrier repairing activities.
Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
A mild, corn-sugar derived, oil-loving emulsifier that helps oil and water to mix nicely together . It is safe for sensitive skin or eye-care formulations and gives a light, satiny after-feel. It is often used together with its water-loving buddy Peg-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate .
Hexyl Laurate
A fast spreading emollient ester (hexyl alcohol + lauric acid) that's used in water in oil emulsions or in water-free formulas. It gives a light skin feel.
Snail Egg Extract
The extract coming from the eggs of the garden snail, or Cornu aspersum. When it comes to snails and cosmetics, the snail slime is a pretty common ingredient that does have nice repair and hydration properties.  As for the eggs extract, a study from 2015 examined it in vitro (in the lab, not on real people!) and found promising skin regenerative properties . More specifically, snail eggs extract seem to promote the production of extracellular matrix components (fibronectin, collagen 1 and MMPs) and it also seems to improve the cell survival after UVB irradiation. The results from the study are promising but do not forget that it's in-vitro so it may or may not apply when we slather snail eggs extract on our face.
Polygonum Aviculare Extract
A flavonoid-rich plant extract coming from knotgrass that is claimed to protect the skin from both UV and Infrared damage .  By now it's pretty well-known that UV-light is the number one external skin-aging factor, however, *sigh* it looks like UV is not the only kind of light that causes bad things to happen to the skin. Infrared light (760 nm to 1 mm) is the spectral band above visible light and there is some research concluding that it can accelerate skin aging via multiple mechanisms, one of them being the stimulation of the production of evil collagen-destroying enzymes called matrix metalloproteinases (MMP). Therefore, protecting the skin from infrared light is probably a meaningful thing to do even though there are currently no proven ways to do so. As for Knotgrass Extract, we only have the manufacturer's claim that says it can inhibit Cathepsin G, an enzyme involved in photoaging and thus modulating the origin of sun and infrared induced MMP production. The manufacturer also did in-vivo tests to show that a 2% Elix-IR lotion, used twice a day for 28 days can increase skin firmness (by 11.9%) and elasticity (by 4.8%) and visibly reduce the appearance of wrinkles (by 20%) and smoothes the surface of the skin.