yavuzyilmaz/cosmetic-ingredients huggingface dataset:
Histidine
A semi-essential amino acid meaning that enough has to be eaten from it so that the body does not use up essential amino acids (that our body cannot produce itself) to synthesize it. It has an important role in regulating the immune defense, allergic reactions, and inflammatory processes in the body. As for skincare, it's a skin moisturizer that might also protect from some skin infections .
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil
The essential oil coming from the sweet orange . In the case of orange (and citruses in general), the essential oil is mainly in the peel of the fruit, so it's pretty much the same as the orange peel oil (also has the same CAS number - a unique ID assigned to chemicals). Its main component is limonene (up to 97%), a super common fragrant ingredient that makes everything smell nice (but counts as a frequent skin sensitizer).
Cananga Odorata Flower Oil
Sweet, exotic and floral, it’ no surprise that Ylang Ylang is a popular essential oil . It is coming from the yellow, fragrant flowers of the Cananga tree native to tropical Asia and, similar to other essential oils, it is a chemically complex mixture with several pros and cons. Unfortunately, these are a bit tricky to pin down as the composition varies largely depending on where it is sourced, how the oil is extracted and the grade of it that is used in the product, but we’ll do our best! Let’s start with the easy stuff.  The main components are fragrant molecules , including super common linalool (1-19%), benzyl benzoate (2-10%) and several others adding up to a max amount of 37.6% of EU sensitizers . The most expensive Extra grade is the most fragrant (has more benzyl acetate and cresyl methyl ether) and is used in high-end perfumes, while the First and Second grades are less fragrant, and used mainly in cosmetics. Other than smelling nice and making cosmetic formulas also smell nice , Ylang Ylang might have some antimicrobial and antioxidant benefits and also works as an insect repellent. Its nice smell is also commonly known as being relaxing and calming (also backed up by a few recent studies), but it is an aromatherapy use case (when inhaled) so this probably does not count much skincare-wise. On the other hand, the nice smell also means allergen fragrant components and 37.6% of EU sensitizers counts as quite high and the oil is considered to have high skin sensitization potential . It is a good idea to avoid if your skin is sensitive.
Berberis Vulgaris Root Extract
A medium sized (1-3m tall) shrub with edible, red berries. Pretty much all parts of it (root, bark, leaf and fruit) have been used as folk medicine for a long time to treat everything from heart diseases to anxiety. As for the root extract and skincare, barberry root contains alkaloids (the most important one is berberine ) that have significant antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties . There is one more interesting thing: an animal study from 1993 found that berberine can reduce lipogenesis (63% by 10(-4) M berberine) in the sebaceous glands of hamsters. This might be the reason why some traditional Japanese-Chinese herbal medicine with berberine seem to work against acne vulgaris . If you are acne-prone, barberry root extract might be something to try.
Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract
Lentil extract that has nice moisturizing properties on the skin. According to manufacturer info , it contains vitamin B5 and trisaccharides . Most often lentil comes to the formula as part of a moisturizing trio together with watermelon and apple . The three of them is called AquaCell and is claimed to give 24 hours hydration and to reduce fine lines after only 2 hours. After 2 weeks 3% Aquacell increased key elements in the skin significantly: citrulline by 440%, Sodium PCA by 180%, Sodium Lactate by 60%. Moisture in the skin increased by 35%, dryness decreased by 60% and skin cohesion increased by 50%
Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract
A goodie fruit extract coming from the lovely pineapple. It contains a bunch of good-for-the-skin stuff: bromelain and fruit acids have mild exfoliant properties, and fruit sugars and amino acids give the pineapple fruit nice moisturizing and soothing properties. There is also a pineapple extract called pineapple ceramide on the market that's claimed to be loaded with a glucose linked ceramide derivative called glucoceramide. According to the manufacturer, glucoceramide is not only a skin moisturizer but it also helps to lighten the skin and make it more smooth .
Coco-Caprylate/​Caprate
A light emollient ester (C8-10 fatty acids connected to C12-18 fatty alcohols) that absorbs quickly and leaves a dry but silky finish on the skin. In terms of skin feel, it is similar to Dicaprylyl Carbonate , another commonly used light emollient.
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
A traditional Chinese herbal medicine loaded with potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory flavonoids such as baicalin, baicalein, and wogonin . If that would not be enough, Skullcap Root is also claimed to have antimicrobial and antifungal properties (also against P.acnes and Malassezia furfur ) as well as some skin-brightening activity . A multi-functional skin-goodie.
Algae Extract
We have to admit that Algae Extract is not our favorite ingredient name. It does comply with the INCI standard (the official list about how ingredients on the product labels have to be called, the thing we help you to decode here :)), but there are about 20 000 different kinds of algae and an extract from them can be made in another 10 000 ways. So, Algae Extract can be anything from La Mer's " Miracle Broth " to a simple brown algae extract that helps to smooth the hair . The official description in the Europiean Cosmetic Ingredient listing is this: "an extract of various species of Algae; Extract of the Seaweed, Fucus vesiculosus, Furaceae". Its official functions include being a humectant (helps skin to attract water), emollient (makes skin feel smooth and nice) and skin conditioner (a catchall phrase for saying it does something good for the skin). A 2015 research paper on the potential of uses of algae in cosmetics summarizes that algae are rich sources of biologically active metabolites including antioxidants, anti-inflammatory agents, alginates, polysaccharides, and carotenoids . Currently, algae extracts are mostly used as moisturizing and thickening agents, but algae also have great potential to combat skin aging , pigmentation as well as working as an antimicrobial. We have also browsed through Prospector to see what manufacturers say about their algae. There is, for example, an algae extract trade-named Lanablue that comes from blue-green algae (green algae is rare, less than 1% of the total macroalgae in the world) and is claimed to have retinoid like effects (i.e. reduce wrinkles, smooth skin) but without the side effects (though it seems now that the INCI name of Lanablue was changed to Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae Extract ). There is another algae extract from another manufacturer that comes from red algae (much more common, about 40% of total macroalgae worldwide) and is claimed to have not only moisturizing but also skin smoothing and densifying effects. Here is a brown algae extract (the most common type, about 59% of macroalgae), also just called Algae Extract on the product label that is simply claimed to be a free radical scavenger, aka antioxidant. These were just three random examples from three manufacturers all called Algae extract even though they all come from different algae with different claims. Anyhow, the point is this; there are tons of different types of Algae Extracts out there. Unless the brand tells you what they use, it's impossible to know for sure. The most probable scenario for the Alge Extract is that it works as a moisturizer and emollient and it might have some additional anti-aging properties .
Coconut Alkanes
Coconut Alkanes is a volatile (something that does not absorb into the skin but evaporates from it), naturally derived vegetable alkane coming from renewable sources. It is a light, oily liquid that works as an emollient and gives a smooth skin feel . It's often combined with another emollient called Coco-Caprylate/Caprate and the two together can serve as a great replacement for some volatile silicones, like Cyclopentasiloxane .
Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract
A polysaccharide (a big sugar molecule) coming from the edible fruit bodies of the Silver Ear mushroom in China . Legend has it, imperial Concubine Yang Kuei- fei - the most beautiful woman in Chinese history - used it for her facial care. So Tremella Extract is a big molecule (more than 1M Da molecular weight) with sugar constituents of Mannose, Xylose , and Glucuronic acid (20%). The last one is the most important one, as Glucuronic acid is also a major component in hyaluronic acid (HA). Thanks to this, Tremella is claimed to be an awesome moisturizer with slightly greater water-holding capacities than HA itself. This is quite a big deal as HA is known for its crazy water-holding capacity (up to 1000 times its own weight). Not only that but Tremella also seems to have some antioxidant effect, it's not sticky (humectants do tend to be sticky) and it leaves skin moist and smooth . No wonder, Concubine Yang Kuei-fei liked this mushroom.
Sodium Butyroyl Hyaluronate
It's a newish hyaluronic acid derivative, that's claimed to give long-lasting moisturizing effects and enhance skin elasticity.
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Apple needs no introduction as one of the most common fruits on planet Earth. It's not only a healthy fruit snack, it's also a goodie if you put in all over your face. It's loaded with proteins, starch, sugars, acids, vitamins and salts . The sugars (mainly fructose, glucose, sucrose) give apple fruit extract nice moisturizing and smoothing properties, while the acids (mainly malic  and gallic acid) give it mild exfoliant, skin brightening and antibacterial properties.
Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/​Leaf Extract
Tasmanian Pepper is a nice shrub living under hard conditions in the mountains of the Southeastern lands of Australia. It has small, round, purple-black berries that when dried, look like black pepper. Hence the name. As for skincare, the berries contain a couple of great actives. The primary one is called polygodial that has potent anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic and antimicrobial activity. According to the manufacturers in-vivo (made on real people) tests , Tasmanian Pepper Extract can relieve itching and burning sensation to a great extent (79% and 58% decrease) almost instantly (after only 5 mins). It also contains anthocyanins , that are well-known antioxidants . The berries are claimed to have an antioxidant power 3x greater than blueberries. A third active in the berries is called rutin , an anti-inflammatory agent that can strengthen capillaries . Thanks to this, Tasmanian Pepper might be able to help reduce dark undereye circles . All in all, an interesting plant extract with soothing and antioxidant activity.
Inulin Lauryl Carbamate
A polymeric (big molecule from repeated subunits) emulsifier that comes from Inulin , a naturally occurring polysaccharide found in the roots and rhizomes of several plants. The emulsifier is obtained by adding oil-loving chains onto inulin. The resulting copolymer can emulsify high amounts of oil and can stabilize oil droplets or non-water soluble particles so that they do not clump together in the formula.
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
A small, three amino acid synthetic tripeptide with a molecular weight smaller than 500 Da (500 Da is often referred to as the limit for proper skin penetration ). The manufacturer claims that it can boost the synthesis of hyaluronic acid in the skin (up to 300% based on in-vitro tests) that is important for proper skin hydration and plumpness. It can also improve collagen fiber quality by increasing some structural skin elements (so-called proteoglycans ), like decorin and lumican. The peptide is suggested for firming and remodelling treatments, as well as against skin sagging . It's also marketed as a "needle-free hyaluronan booster".
Dehydroacetic Acid
A helper ingredient that helps to make the products stay nice longer, aka preservative . It works mainly against fungi and has only milder effect against bacteria. It is Ecocert and Cosmos approved, works quite well at low concentrations (0.1-0.6%) and is popular in natural products.
Isodecyl Neopentanoate
A  low molecular weight dry, silky emollient ester that gives a light and non-greasy feel to the formulas. It's great at reducing the oily or heavy feeling caused by certain ingredients such as sunscreen agents or pigments. It also gives improved emolliency, spreadability and a smooth, elegant feel on the skin.
C13-15 Alkane
A biodegradable emollient that gives a fresh gliding sensation and a powdery after feel. It works well with all kinds of oils including natural and silicone oils.
Sucrose Laurate
A sugar ester (sucrose + lauric acid) that works as an emulsifier and oil thickener . It's a great ingredient to make oily gel cleansers that turn to milk on contact with water. It's also 100% natural and combined with glycerin and oils (trade name Sucragel), it gives the basis for a gentle, yet effective, moisturizing oily gel cleansers. According to the manufacturer's 20 person study , skin is twice as hydrated 2 hours after using a Sucragel based cleanser compared to using a moisturising Sodium Laureth Sulfate cleanser.
Acrylates/​Ethylhexyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
A softening and texturizing agent that can also absorb high amounts of excess oil produced by the skin. It leaves a mat, soft and velvety feel on the skin.
Dodecane
A natural based very light and highly spreading emollient that can be an alternative to water-thin, volatile silicone, Cyclopentasiloxane .
Isononyl Isononanoate
An emollient ester with a rich and creamy but non-greasy skin feel . It makes skin supple and protects dry skin.
Ethylene/​Propylene/​Styrene Copolymer
A helper ingredient that's used as an oil gelling agent together with its sibling, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer . These two together can be combined with different types of hydrocarbons (e.g. mineral oil or different emollient esters) to form gels with different sensorial and physical properties. The resulted hydrocarbon gels can improve skin occlusivity (and reduce trans-epidermal water loss) and they are also excellent to form suspensions.
Silica Dimethyl Silylate
It's a water-hating, fumed silica that works as a thickener for oils and it can also suspend particles in oils . Also, increases the gloss of castor oil that can be useful for makeup products.
Butylene/​Ethylene/​Styrene Copolymer
A helper ingredient that's used as a gelling agent together with a hydrocarbon and its sibling, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer . Read more there .
Trihydroxystearin
A hydrogenated castor oil derivative that is used as an oil gelling agent . It can thicken up both oils as well as silicones.
Glucomannan
Glucomannan is a polysaccharide (a big sugar molecule) coming from the Konjac plant . It has great water-absorbing capacity and is one of the key ingredients in the plumping and smoothing active called Ultra Filling Spheres by BASF . The magic filling spheres have two active parts: a kind of LMW hyaluronic acid  (<40 kDa) and the konjac root powder or glucomannan. The latter one is a big molecule (> 200 kDa) that has outstanding water-absorbing capacities.  These two combined form small spheres which after drying, are transformed into the active spheres. Thanks to their high hygroscopic properties, the spheres can expand rapidly in the presence of the skin’s water reserve and they can plump up the skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Ethyl 2,2-Dimethylhydrocinnamal
It's a fragrance ingredient that goes by the trade name Florazon. It smells like " fresh air " or " marine air " and works well in compositions with white flower note. It's also a top note booster and good for watery-fruity compositions.
Alpha-Arbutin
An optical isomer of naturally occurring arbutin (or beta-arbutin). Just like its sibling, alpha-arbutin is also a skin-brightening, depigmenting agent . Researching the difference between the two kinds of arbutin, you can read in multiple places on the internet that alpha-arbutin is stronger in effect. Unfortunately, it's never backed up with a credible source. :(  Our own research resulted in conflicting results: a study from 1995 found that alpha-arbutin is 10x as effective on mouse melanoma as beta-arbutin. On the other hand, a more recent study from 2015 found that beta-arbutin is more effective both on mouse melanoma cells and on human melanoma cells (btw, kojic acid was the most effective on human melanoma cells). None of the studies we could find is in-vivo (made on real people) anyways, so who knows. We think you cannot go wrong with trying both beta- and alpha-arbutin and see if one works better for you than the other.
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
A super common, medium-spreading emollient ester that gives richness to the formula and a mild feel during rubout. It can be a replacement for mineral oil and is often combined with other emollients to achieve different sensorial properties.
Curculigo Orchioides Root Extract
A plant extract coming from a nice yellow flower from the shady forests of Asia. It's a traditional medicinal plant with a bunch of magic properties: it's claimed to be aphrodisiac, anti-inflammatory, sedative, antioxidant, hepatoprotective, and even anticancer. As for skincare, the root extract is loaded with sugars and a phenolic glycoside called curculigosides . According to manufacturer info , Golden Eye-Grass can modulate the internal mechanism of skin's pH control . The right pH of the skin (slightly acidic SC) is really important for lipid-processing enzymes to work correctly and thus to maintain a strong and healthy skin barrier. And a good skin barrier means less sensitive, less reactive and more healthy skin . Definitely an interesting plant and goodie if you have sensitive skin.
Gallyl Glucoside
Gallyl Glucoside is a glycosylated form of gallic acid (i.e. attaching the sugar molecule, glucose to gallic acid) coming from oak leaves. It is known for its antioxidant and soothing properties and usually comes to the formula combined with other plant-derived glucosides.
Arbutin
A pretty well-known and often used ingredient with the magic ability to fade brown spots . It's used traditionally in Japan and can be found naturally in a couple of plants , including the leaves of pear trees, wheat and bearberry . Arbutin seems to work its magic and hinder the pigmentation process at the second step of it. An enzyme called tyrosinase is needed to create melanin (the pigment that causes the brown spots) and while several other skin lightening agents work to inhibit the synthesis of tyrosinase itself (like vitamin C or licorice ), arbutin lets tyrosinase be and rather hinders the melanin-forming activity of the enzyme . (So it might be a good idea to combine arbutin with some direct tyrosinase inhibitors for more skin lightening effect.) All in all, arbutin is one of the better-known skin brightening agents, that's probably worth a try if pigmentation is an issue for you.
Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside
It's a "bioengineered" version of superstar green tea polyphenol, EGCG (EGCG attached to a glucose molecule). According to the manufacturer , it's a highly water soluble, stabilized and purified form that's easier to formulate but it keeps the great antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits of  regular EGCG. It's  Ecocert approved.
Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate
It's a "bioengineered" from of skin building block N-acetylglucosamine-6-phosphate (NAG6P) that is used by the skin to synthesize important skin-identical humectants like GAGs and hyaluronan . According to the manufacturer's in-vitro and ex-vivo (made in the lab not on real people) tests , NovHyal can boost GAGs production both in the upper and middle layer of the skin by 84% in 10 days. It can also increase hyaluronic acid synthesis by 282% in just 2 days. Sounds good, though some in-vivo tests (made on real people) would be nice.
Rosa Canina Seed Oil
The oil coming from the seeds of dog-rose , a wild rose species native to Europe, northwest Africa and western Asia. It's a nice emollient, moisturizing plant oil loaded with skin-nourishing fatty acids (linoleic acid - 51%, linolenic acid - 19% and oleic acid - 20%). If you start to dig a bit deeper into the rosehip oil topic, you will soon see that there are lots of species of rose , and it's all a bit confusing to know what the differences and similarities between the oils of the different roses are. As far as our research can tell, here is the gist. In skincare t wo major types of rosehip oil are used: 1. Rosa Rubiginosa that is a synonym for Rosa Eglanteria and for Rosa Mosqueta. We will call it RR from now on. 2. Rosa Canina , or RC The oil content and composition of RR and RC is similar, but there are some differences: RR contains 8% of oil, while RC contains a bit more, 10%. However, the quality of RR oil seems to be a bit bette r: it contains 78% essential unsaturated fatty acids while RC contains only 71%. Also, the linoleic-oleic ratio of RR is better (3.3 vs 2.5) that might be important if your skin is acne-prone (as linoleic acid is good for acne and oleic is not). There is one more important thing to mention: RR oil is famous for containing the miracle active, tretinoin. Though Wikipedia puts RR and RC oil under the same article called as Rose hip seed oil , the referenced research about tretinoin content examines only Rosa Rubiginosa. We looked for a research paper explicitly stating that Rosa Canina also contains tretinoin, but could not find one, so we can neither deny nor confirm it. What we could find is a paper mentioning the tocopherols (vitamin E) and carotenoids (pro-vitamin A) content of Rosa Canina oil that gives it some nice antioxidant properties. All in all, it is a great emollient plant oil with great fatty acids beneficial for any skin type.