yavuzyilmaz/cosmetic-ingredients huggingface dataset:
Asiatic Acid
One of the biologically active components of Gotu Kola . It's a bit less prominent than its sister component, Asiaticoside , but in-vitro (made in the lab) studies show that Asiatic Acid also stimulates GAGs (glycosaminoglycans - polysaccharides that are part of the liquidy stuff between our skin cells) production as well as collagen I synthesis. English translation equals that it probably contributes to the well-established moisturizing and wound healing abilities of Gotu Kola .
Glycereth-7 Trimethyl Ether
A light yellow liquid ester that gives a slightly dry, silky emollience on the skin. Its unique property is that it is both water-soluble as well as castor oil soluble. This dual solubility is a rare trait that enables the addition of water into waterless formulas, such as lipsticks or balms. Glycereth-7 Trimethyl Ether is also very pH stable and dissolves salicylic acid so it can be a nice helper ingredient in alcohol-free (alcohol is a very good solvent for SA) salicylic acid formulas.
Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate
A mild cleansing agent that's used mainly next to other cleansing agents (co-surfactant)  to improve foam density and regulate viscosity .
Poloxamer 188
A synthetic big copolymer molecule that is used as a solubilizer, mild cleansing agent and foam booster or stabilizer. If you want to understand poloxamers more, we have a shiny description at Poloxamer 184 and Poloxamer 407 . This particular poloxamer, the 188 is quite similar to the 184 version, but it is more water-soluble (80% water-soluble parts) so it can act more as a solubilizer helping to dissolve oil-loving things in water-based formulas. Similar to 184, this one also works as a mild cleansing agent, but while 184 is claimed to be more effective at cleansing, the 188 is better at foaming.
Secale Cereale Seed Extract
As a plant extract, it is hard to know what it is exactly: it might be little exfoliant particles, or - if you are looking at the ingredient list of an anti-aging product - it is most likely a rye extract rich in arabinoxylans with possible skin smoothing and glow enhancing properties . According to manufacturer claims , their rye extract can improve the skin’s mechanical resistance and reduce the appearance of gravity wrinkles. The manufacturer did a 20-person, 56-day long study that showed an antiwrinkle effect at both the crow’s-feet and the nasolabial fold : a 13% and 23% decrease in the number of wrinkles, a 15% and 26% reduction of the total surface of wrinkles, and a 16% and 27% reduction of their length.
Polyquaternium-37
A cationic polymer molecule (a big molecule with repeated subunits and a positive charge) that acts both as a film-former and conditioning ingredient as well as a thickening agent .
Myristyl Nicotinate
Myristyl Nicotinate (MN) might not sound familiar, but Niacinamide probably does. If it does not, click here to catch up . Our molecule is an oil-soluble derivative of skincare superstar, niacinamide that was developed to deliver nicotinic acid to the skin without causing flushing (tiny amounts of the acid form of niacinamide cause skin flushing, but otherwise, it is a skin goodie similar to nia). And research shows that Myristyl Nicotinate delivers. It is a stable and well-tolerated molecule that is known to enhance epidermal differentiation and skin barrier function . It is also a nice addition to retinoic acid therapy to reduce the side effects such as flaking and irritation.
Diethylhexyl 2,6-Naphthalate
An oily, emollient liquid that works as a photostabilizer and solvent in sunscreen formulas . More specifically, it helps to stabilize famous UVA filter, Avobenzone and it is also an excellent solvent for oil-soluble, solid sunscreen agents.
Methyl Diisopropyl Propionamide
A molecule that gives a long-lasting cooling and chilling effect to the formula. It is not derived from menthol and,  according to the manufacturer, is not allergenic.
Gelatin
An animal-derived gelling agent that is a close relative to Hydrolyzed Collagen . It is created from the connective tissue (bone and skin) of animals (usually cows or pigs) and helps to thicken up water-based formulas.
Myristyl Malate Phosphonic Acid
Myristyl Malate Phosphonic Acid (let’s call it MMPA) is a synthetic phospholipid . You may have heard of phospholipids in your biology class, since they’re a main component in human cell membranes. Because of this, it makes sense that cosmetic companies want to try making some similar molecules for skin care - our skin is made of cells, after all! So MMPA is the main advertised component of the complex trade named Revidrate, which the manufacturer claims will act on the outer layers of the skin to promote the activity of natural moisturizing factors. This is basically to say that MMPA helps your skin hydrate itself . It is said to do this through promoting some complex pathways within your cells that help mature keratinocytes (the cells in the outer layer of the skin).  A 38-person clinical study was conducted by the company to substantiate these claims that showed promising moisturization results after 2 months of using a cream twice a day with 3% Revidrate. All in all, MMPA seems like a promising goodie and there is no reason not to try it, especially if it’s included in a formulation with other proven ingredients.
Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol
Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol is a broadband UV absorber used to stabilize products in transparent packaging. It protects sensitive ingredients such as colors, fragrances, or natural extracts from photooxidative degradation . The recommended usage rate is 0.01% - 0.1%.
PPG-10 Methyl Glucose Ether
A sugar derived liquid that works as a water-soluble emollient (makes your skin nice and smooth), fragrance fixative and humectant (helps skin to hold onto water) on the skin.
Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate
This long-named molecule is a chemical sunscreen agent that protects the skin from the UVA II rays (320-350 nm mainly) with a peak absorbance at 335 nm. Unlike most other sunscreen filters, it is not oil, but water-soluble helping formulators to create less greasy sunscreens. It also has a good safety profile with very low skin penetration and is approved up to 10% in the EU and pretty much everywhere else except for the United States (due to old and bad FDA sunscreen regulations).
Mentha Piperita Leaf Oil
Some variation of peppermint essential oil known for its grassy-minty smell and refreshing sensations. Its main active component is menthol , a known skin irritant. Read more here >>
Myristoyl Hexapeptide-16
A six amino acid peptide (Leu-Lys-Lys-Thr-Glu-Thr) attached to the oil-soluble fatty acid, myristic acid for better bioavailability. It is known to significantly stimulate keratin genes , i. e. it can convince the cells to produce more keratin, the super important structural protein in hair, nails and the outermost layer of the skin. Most often you will meet Myristoyl Hexapeptide-16 combined with Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 in eyelash growth products, as the two together can visibly increase eyelash length after two weeks.
Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17
A five amino acid peptide (Lys-Leu-Ala-Lys-Lys) attached to the oil-soluble fatty acid, myristic acid for better bioavailability. It is known to significantly stimulate keratin genes , i. e. it can convince the cells to produce more keratin, the super important structural protein in hair, nails and the outermost layer of the skin. Most often you will meet Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 combined with Myristoyl Hexapeptide-16 in eyelash growth products, as the two together can visibly increase eyelash length after two weeks.
Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate
A viscous oily liquid (ester) that is known for providing extraordinarily long-lasting coverage . It is used to enhance water resistance in sunscreen formulas or to give long-wear properties to makeup items such as lipsticks or smudge-proof mascaras.
Sodium Acrylates/​C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
A pre-neutralised form of super common thickener and emulsion stabilizer, Acrylates/ C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer . We have more info at Carbomer and Acrylates/​C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer .
Human Adipose Derived Stem Cell Conditioned Media
If you see "some kind of cell conditioned media" on the ingredient list, it always means a Growth Factor Cocktail for your skin . In this case, we are talking about Adipose-Derived Stem Cells (ADSC), i.e. cells that differentiate later into fat cells.  These cells are known to secrete various growth factors that have significant wound healing and antioxidant properties . If you are new to Growth Factors , they are medium long amino acid sequences (= small proteins = big peptides) that work as a cell signaling molecules to stimulate cell growth, proliferation, healing and/or differentiation . The whole Growth Factors and skincare topic is pretty big and somewhat confusing, so if you want to dip your toes into it, we have a shiny description at Epidermal Growth Factor , the first GF that found its way into cosmetic products and also at Human Fibroblast Conditioned Media , a GF Cocktail similar to this one, but coming from different type of cells.
Propane
The small sister of Butane (once carbon shorter chain length alkane), Propane is also a gas used as a propellant in cosmetic products.
Rutin
Rutin is a polyphenol flavonoid found in many plants, for example, citrus fruits. The main reason it's used in cosmetics is its high antioxidant and free radical-scavenging ability (similar to that of superstar ascorbic acid ), but also has some antibacterial nature and wound-healing properties. There is also an in-vitro (made in Petri dishes on animal cell lines) study showing potential for rutin as a skin-whitening agent and people have even tried using it to increase the UV-blocking ability of SPF agents, but with inconsistent results. Either way, its antioxidant abilities should still help protect the skin against sun damage from the UV light that isn’t blocked by SPF agents!
Opuntia Ficus-Indica Fruit Extract
The extract of Prickly Pear, a cactus that’s native to Mexico. Its main unique thing is that it can reduce the neurosensory irritation caused by the application of topical products such as retinoids (slow reaction) or alpha hydroxy acids (fast reaction). We have a shiny description about Opuntia Ficus-Indica Extract here >>
Hydrolyzed Placental Protein
A chemically chopped up version of protein coming from bovine placenta (yes, it is an animal-derived ingredient). Proteins are long amino acid chains, so when you chop them up you get peptides (short amino-acid chains) and amino acids, nice molecules that are known as the "building blocks of life". In general, amino acids, peptides, and proteins are moisturizing, nourishing and regenerating ingredients when you smear them on your face, so is probably Hydrolyzed Placental Protein. According to manufacturer's information , it also works as a film forming, protecting and restructuring agent . Due to its high amino acid content, it improves surface hydration and elasticity and due to its larger peptide and protein molecules, it forms a nice film on the skin that reduces trans-epidermal-water-loss (i.e. hinders water evaporating out of the top layers of the skin).  These effects help to maintain the water content of the skin cells and result in a healthy skin &  nice complexion.
C15-19 Alkane
A nice-feeling, light emollient that makes the skin soft and smooth. It gives a fresh and gliding sensation with a powdery or soft after-feel depending on the exact grade used. It is a popular alternative to replace silicones. Chemically speaking, it is an alkane (stable, non-reacting hydrocarbon) that used to be produced from petrochemicals, but today's versions are typically vegetable based. It is readily biodegradable.
Dilinoleic Acid/​Propanediol Copolymer
Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer is a slightly tacky, glossy emollient that is commonly used in lip products as it is soluble in lip product's favorite oil, castor oil ; it sticks well to the skin (substantive) and gives a nice glossy appearance. It also often comes to the ingredient list (especially in non-lip products) combined with Phytosteryl Sunflowerseedate and Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides; in this case, the trio serves as a vegetable lanolin alternative, bringing rich emollience to the formula.
Cetylhydroxyproline Palmitamide
A pseudo-ceramide that is similar to Ceramide 2 in structure and activity and is claimed to be a great ingredient for a healthy skin barrier or to repair damaged skin or hair. In general, Ceramides are super important lipids in the outer layer of the skin and we have written some more about them here >>
Ci 77510
An inorganic (as in no carbon in its molecule) pigment that has a very intense, dark blue color . It is not permitted in lip products in the US, and only the version Ferric Ammonium Ferrocyanide is permitted in the EU.
Eucalyptus Citriodora Oil
The essential oil coming from Eucalyptus Citriodora that has a surprisingly different chemical structure from the better known, and much more commonly used Eucalyptus Globulus essential oil . It contains hardly any eucalyptol (0.6%), but its main components are citronellal (85%) and limonene (15%) giving the oil a strong, fresh, sweet, and balsamic aroma . Its EU sensitizer total percentage is 20% , that counts as quite high so be careful with it if you have sensitive skin.
Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1
A three amino acid peptide where the famous collagen fragment, Tripeptide-1 , aka GHK is combined with Biotin , the well-known supplement for stronger nails and hairs. The result of the combination is Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1, a peptide claimed to be helpful for reducing hair loss and for making the eyelashes appear longer, fuller, and stronger . As for proof, the manufacturer did some in-vitro (made in test tubes) studies that show that our molecule can promote hair bulb keratinocyte proliferation and also helps optimal hair anchorage by stimulating the synthesis and organization of the adhesion molecules laminin 5 and collagen IV. This means that our peptide might help the hair to be stronger and to stay longer in its place, though these are only in vitro results that might or might not translate to real-world use. As for a clinical, made on real people study, the manufacturer did one for eyelash growth with 30 volunteers. Using a mascara with 2% of SpecPed LashLD  (trade name for the diluted, buyable version of Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1), the lashes got longer by 17% and thicker by 19% after 30 days.
Ethyl Menthane Carboxamide
A menthol derivative that gives a strong cooling effect on the skin (and in the mouth). But, unlike menthol , it is virtually nonvolatile, odorless and tasteless. It is often combined with other cooling agents such as Menthyl Lactate and/or Methyl Diisopropyl Propionamide for even more cooling to make us think that the formula is hard-working. We have also bumped into a theory about skin cooling having some "secondary" anti-aging benefit by increasing the calcium ions in the skin. But, the referenced research is about sensory neurons in rats and extrapolating antiaging benefits from that and the general role of calcium in the skin seems pretty far-fetched to us.
Potassium Acrylates/​C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
A pre-neutralised form of super common thickener and emulsion stabilizer, Acrylates/ C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer . We have more info at Carbomer and Acrylates/​C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer .
Jojoba Oil/​Macadamia Seed Oil Esters
Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters is the major component of a skin surface lipid mimetic mixture trade named L22. So what the heck is a skin surface lipid mimetic mixture? Let's start with skin surface lipids (SLSs): these are the oily substances that your skin produces (mainly the sebaceous glands, a smaller part comes from the epidermis) to keep the skin nice and moisturized. The main components are fatty acids (FAs), triglycerides, cholesterol, chole steryl esters, wax esters, and squalene. This mixture has a super important role in keeping the skin barrier healthy. So Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters is a jojoba and macadamia oil-derived ingredient that contains fatty acids, triglycerides, and wax esters. It comes to the formula with Squalene , Phytosteryl Macadamiate (botanical sourced version of cholesteryl ester) and Phytosterols (botanical version of cholesterol) in the ratios found in young, healthy adult skin. So the main skill of L22 is barrier repair and skin hydration and the manufacturer did several double-blind, vehicle-controlled studies to show it really works. It compared 3% of L22 with 3% of olive oil or 3% of caprylic/capric triglyceride alone or combined with Ceramide 2 in a vehicle. 60 minutes after the application, barrier recovery was by far the best by the L22 + Ceramide 2 (0.1%) combination , followed by L22 alone, and then by Olive + Ceramide 2 and Olive alone. Skin hydration was measured 4 hours after application and again, the L22 + Ceramide 2 combination performed the best followed by L22 alone. Another study compared 3% L22 with 3% petrolatum (the gold standard occlusive agent). After 1 hour, they performed similarly both for barrier repair and skin hydration, but after 2 weeks of use and a 1 week regression period, L22 showed significantly better results. So the bottom line is: if barrier repair is something that you are interested in, the skin surface lipids of L22 can definitely be worth a try. Even better, if the formula also contains Ceramide 2 .
Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae Extract
The extract coming from a rare, blue-green algae that's touted to have retinoid-like effects but without the side effect. If you do not know what retinoids are, you are seriously missing out, please click here and catch up on the topic . To be more specific about the "retinoid-like effects", the manufacturer found that Lanablue (the trade name of this algae) affects gene expression (a fancy way of saying how an ingredient might influence how a skin cell produces different things such as proteins) and regulates epidermal differentiation (how skin cells at the bottom of the top layer of our skin replicate) similar to good-old retinol. However, that is only in-vitro (made in test-tubes) data, that may or may not happen on real human skin. As far as clinical data goes, the manufacturer did a 21 days study with 40 volunteers and found that 3% Lanablue showed a "clear reduction of the skin microrelief", or to say it in another way, it made the skin smoother . Based on the data we have seen, we think that "retinoid-like effects" claim for this algae is an exaggeration. If you are into retinol alternatives, Bakuchiol is a more promising molecule to check out.
Ci 77289
An inorganic (as in no carbon in its molecule, it is Cr2O3X(OH), the hydrated version of this guy ) pigment that gives blue-green shades . It is not permitted in lip products in the US.
Phytosteryl Macadamiate
Phytosteryl Macadamiate is the combination of phytosterol and fatty acids coming from Macadamia oil. It is a botanical version of cholesteryl esters found in skin surface lipids. It comes to the ingredient list as part of L22, a skin surface lipid mimetic whose main job is barrier repair and skin hydration .
Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate is an oil-like, emollient liquid that gives a cushiony feel to skin and make-up products. It has a good combination of rich feel, but good slip and low tack. It is also popular in lipsticks and lip glosses instead of lanolin or castor oil.
Sodium Stearate
A very classic, old-school cleansing agent, a soap (the sodium salt of Stearic Acid ). It is known for its rich, creamy foam and being quite harsh on the skin . If it's not in a soap bar, it can also function as an emulsifier or consistency agent.
Isopropyl Cloprostenate
A synthetic prostaglandin analog that belongs to the same class of actives used originally on glaucoma patients. As a side effect, people noticed longer and stronger eyelashes so prostaglandin analogs made their way into eyelash growth products. Isopropyl Cloprostenate does work when it comes to eyelash growth, however, it is not without possible side-effects and is kind of a controversial ingredient . An FDA-warning letter mentions among others ocular irritation, hyperemia, iris color change, macular edema and ocular inflammation that may happen and the FDA is generally not happy about prostaglandin analogs being used in cosmetic products.
Hydrolyzed Marine Collagen
The chemically chopped up version of collagen coming from a marine (fish) source. It works as a moisturizer and emollient . Read more about hydrolyzed collagen here >>
Citrus Unshiu Extract
The extract coming from the Satsuma Mandarin, an easy to peel, seedless citrus from Japan. Mainly the peel extract is used in cosmetics for its skin-brightening and antioxidant abilities. We have some more details at Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract >>
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-19
A Botox-mimicking peptide (kind of like the famous Argireline ) that is supposed to relax the mimic facial wrinkles such as crow's feet or thinker's wrinkles. It is obviously not as effective as real Botox, but according to the manufacturer's data , 5% of the BoNT-L peptide liquid (the diluted, sold version of the peptide) can reduce mimic wrinkles by 38% in 28 days (tested on 15 volunteers).
Cocamidopropylamine Oxide
A secondary cleansing agent (co-surfactant) that's a good aid next to other (anionic) cleansing agents. It improves foam, the mildness of the formula and builds viscosity, pretty much all the things co-surfactants are used for.
Dmpa/​Isophthalic Acid/​Smdi Copolymer
A clear polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) molecule that is used to coat silica beads to modify its light reflecting properties and create the illusion of a smoother skin surface and obscures imperfections. Based on the manufacturer's in-vivo (made on real people) tests , 3%-5% ChronoSphere Opticals (the trade name of the technology) makes a pretty visible difference in smoothing out fine lines and wrinkles on the face. Don't forget, this is only an instant fix that lasts until you wash your face, but pretty cool.
N-Butyl Alcohol
A clear, colorless liquid with a wine-like odor. It is usually used in tiny amounts as an aromatic and flavor ingredient .
Disiloxane
A very thin and very volatile (evaporates from the skin rather than absorbs into it) silicone fluid that gives silky softness and great spreadability to the formulas.
Anthocyanins
A water-soluble, natural colorant (a dye) that gives red&purple shades . Anthocyanins are also the dyes that give several edible fruits and berries their color such as acai, blackcurrant or raspberry.
Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA
Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA is a chemical sunscreen agent that protects in the UVB range (290-320 nm) with a peak absorbance at 312nm. Other than that, we struggle to write anything positive about this guy, as it is photo unstable (looses 10% efficacy in 20 mins and 50% in 85 mins), not an unfrequent allergen in sunscreens and shows some endocrine effect in animal studies. All this does not mean that it is not considered safe as used, it is (and is approved up to 8% in the EU and US and up to 3% in Japan), but we do think that there are plenty of other and better UV filters out there.
Phytosteryl Sunflowerseedate
There is not much information about Phytosteryl Sunflowerseedate on its own out there, but it usually comes to the formula combined with Dilinoleic Acid/​Propanediol Copolymer and Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides . The trio acts as a vegetable lanolin alternative , bringing rich emollience to the formula.
Polyglyceryl-3 Cetearyl Ether Olivate
An olive oil-derived emulsifier (helps to mix water and oil) that creates light emulsions with a velvety skin feel. The recommended usage concentration is 4-6%.
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CI 77947
CI 77947 is the name of Zinc Oxide on the ingredient label when it is used as a colorant.
Castor Oil/​IPDI Copolymer
A castor oil-derived polymer that can thicken up oils . It can form clear oily gels, and it can also suspend particles such as pigments, glitters, or mineral filters.