[HD2 General] GnatGoSplat:
Yeah, that pic is of the LCD+digitizer assembly once it's off, but still connected to the main circuit board by the flex cable. That's why I've lifted it like that, so I don't pull on the flex. What I did was:

1. Remove phone chassis from rear casing by removing 4 screws in the back and using plastic tools to pry it out. There are 2 spots in the top with plastic tabs anchored into the rear housing. I found it worked well to use cut-up credit cards to stick in there to keep the little tabs from sliding back into the rear housing while I worked on the other tabs.

2. Once phone chassis is removed from rear casing, remove 2 strips of tape from the sides. They look like fabric and one has copper. See Step 27 on ifixit writeup.

3. Use a thin, flat, plastic tool to cut through all the double-sided adhesive tape between the LCD module and chassis frame. Notice the gap between two METAL parts - the backing of the LCD module is also metal. This is where you slide your plastic tool. I used a scrap credit card to do this. You will have to go pretty deep near the top of the phone as there is tape up to an inch from the edge. Notice in my pic where the flex cable is? DO NOT go more than 3/16" deep in that area! You do NOT want to cut or tear the flex cable with your tool!!! Also, when you start pulling and lifting the LCD module away from the chassis, BE SURE to lift up on the left side (with screen facing you), allowing the assembly to "hinge" on the right edge. DO NOT lift the right side up more than a few millimeters because the flex is not very long. Also, heating the phone MAY make cutting through the adhesive easier, though I didn't bother to heat mine.

4. Lift the left side of the LCD up (as shown in my pic), then use tweezers to remove the orange tape covering the connector and lift up on the little black latch with a small screwdriver or plastic tool. After you've done that, gently set the LCD back into place.

4. Turn the phone over and remove 3 screws from the bottom logic board as in iFixit step #15. No need to remove the top 2.

5. I disconnected, but did NOT remove the bluetooth cable, from the lower circuit board as in iFixit step #18. You may find it helpful to also disconnect the wiring as shown in iFixit step #16, but I don't think I did.

6. Remove the orange tape and lift up the black latch to remove the button flex as shown in iFixit step #19.

7. Now gently pop up the lower circuit board from the little tabs holding it in and gently lift the side of it where the LCD connector is located away from the frame. Lift it only a few millimeters, you should now be able to see the LCD flex connector between the chassis and circuit board. Use a small tool like a jeweler's screwdriver to slide the flex out of the connector that you unlatched in step 4.

8. Now you should be able to lift the LCD assembly completely off the phone.

9. Removing digitizer from LCD is a matter of cutting through the double-sided tape with a plastic tool. Again, I used a cut-up credit card for this. Try not to go too deep to avoid scratching the LCD.

10. I used just regular clear tape to clean off the left over adhesive from the LCD.

Reassembly is reverse of disassembly. Reconnecting the LCD is a little tricky, but it's not bad if you have good manual dexterity. I reconnected/disconnected the LCD several times because sometimes during the process I would hear a crack and it would scare me, so I reconnected the LCD to power up the phone and make sure I didn't crack it! Fortunately, all those sounds that made me nervous came from the old, cracked digitizer.

Lacquer thinner on a Q-tip works well to clean off the old adhesive tape. I'm sure other solvents would work as well.

Also, double-sided tape worked well and should be used to hold the new digitizer onto the LCD, but I found the entire LCD assembly-to-chassis didn't hold well with the double-sided tape I got off eBay. One edge would lift up 1.5 to 2mm after a few days of non-use. I ended up lifting up the LCD again and removing all the double-sided tape and using Permatex adhesive silicone instead, and using big rubber bands to hold it together while it cured. That seems to have worked quite well.

Hope that helps!