yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Nexus One General] uansari1:
Not sure why people are freaking out about apps running in the background... This is normal and Android does an amazing job of freeing up memory by killing apps as NEEDED.
[Nexus One General] setzer715:
Hmmmm, guess I never looked at it that way. I do notice it gets a little sluggish when all of that is running in the background. I'm just used to my MT3G. I've NEVER seen that many apps running at once.
[Nexus One General] david1171:
try two and two-thirds the amount of RAM and that would explain how you get so many apps running lol.
[Nexus One General] setzer715:
Ha-ha, good point!!!
[Nexus One General] Land Of The Trill:
From my experience the apps never close it is set to idle and is stored in the phone memory therefore decreasing startup time and allowing for a better multitasking experience but on all other previous android devices there wasn't as much memory so only a few apps could run at a time before the memory would be needed so something would get closed.
[Nexus One General] Paul22000:
You're used to having 37.5% of the ram the Nexus One has ;)

Now here's the question: does having 31 apps open affect battery life?
[Nexus One General] swetland:
It depends on the applications. If they just sit quietly when suspended (in the background) and don't do anything, they will have no impact on battery life (because their threads will never schedule/run). If they continue to do work while in the background, that will have some impact, however, unless they hold a wakelock (something they need the "keep phone from sleeping" permission to do), they will have no contribution to battery consumption while the screen is off and no other apps/services hold wakelocks.

In short, "it depends."

The menu / settings / about phone / battery use panel tries to give you as much information as possible about what apps/services are consuming your battery.
[Nexus One General] carnegie0107:
Yes. Traditional multitasking (WinMo, BlackBerry) phone OSes will not close an application (or program, on WinMo) until you tell it to close, or it decides to close itself. This is a resource hog, and results in the freezing up or running painfully slowly that we have come to expect from those devices. The iPhone always runs fast because it ALWAYS closes an app--no multitasking whatsoever--so it never runs out of resources and slows down. It "pauses" the app, then closes it, so when you open it, it resumes right where it left off, as if it were open the whole time. The downside is nothing gets done in the background--which is why awesome apps like Locale or Screebl won't run on iPhone. Android is the best of both worlds. It leaves apps running until it NEEDS to close them. When resources run tight, it pauses apps just like the iPhone, so it stays running fast, but as long as you don't overload the system, you can run background apps. And background services will stay running.

I'm sure it does some, but with that monster of a CPU, and as little power as apps use when they're sitting in the background not doing anything, I'm guessing it is a negligible difference. But that's why I love Advanced Task Manager's auto-end feature. :)
[Nexus One General] jamesyb0i:
i lol'd -----------__________----------------
[Nexus One General] eaglesteve:
When you have 31 applications running, is there a hardware key that you can press (perhaps with a third party software) to show those which are running, and to switch to anyone of them instantly without resorting back to the application menu? Also, does this same tool let you shut down an active tasks in order to conserver memory and battery life? I understand that a long press of the home key only shows the last 6(?) application launched but not necessarily the currently active tasks.

On my jailbroken iPhone, I'm used to be able to double click the home button to show all active tasks, and there I can switch to or terminate anyone of them. While running an application, I also have the option of long pressing the home button to end it directly so that it does not continue running in the background. If I do a normal home press, the application will continue running in the background, and I'm presented with a screen which lets me jumps to any of the desktop in order to launch new applications.

I hope I can have the same level of convenience here.
[Nexus One General] Valicore:
All of the applications in the backround are essentially in hibernation - it is part of the way Android manages the RAM. I think it's great.
[Tilt, TyTN II, MDA Vario III General] wzzp144:
Can anyone make a tutorial that shows how to partition SD card for the Android Eclair for Kaiser -- Dark Themed ? Please, greatly appricated if you did =]
[Tilt, TyTN II, MDA Vario III General] stylez:
Moved as not ROM Development.

Think your best bet is to PM one of the peeps releasing builds to ask if they can? or ask in one of the numerous droid threads.
[Tilt, TyTN II, MDA Vario III General] VulpesFoxnik:
I suggest using Gparted.

As I understand, Android can read ext2, which is light years ahead of fat32.

Warning: The following assumes that Andriod's file system and base operation operates like GNU/Linux

I'm not sure this will work... or how to get android to do this... but:

In GNU/linux, you would make a line in /etc/fstab for the device, unless it is handled by an automounter they designed.

Anyway, you can resize the fat32 to two partitions, and you should be able to make a 2ndary partition on the SD for linux.

I assume you are running windows, so to run Gparted, you will need to use the Live CD.

http://gparted.sourceforge.net/download.php

A sample fstab line:

# <file system> <mount point> <type> <options> <dump> <pass>
UUID=7d126676-b613-457f-b50f-5f69929b06d6 / ext3 errors=remount-ro 0 1
/dev/sda6	/home	ext4 errors=remount-ro 0 1

I'd assume they have some sort of andriod application that opens a terminal with bash, or edit the /etc/fstab by some other means.

Best of luck!
[Tilt, TyTN II, MDA Vario III General] denco7:
Or you can just do this in Fat32

http://xdaforums.com/showthread.php?t=267475
[Tilt, TyTN II, MDA Vario III General] zzoinks:
Thanks for the attempt at an explanation. I'm in the same boat as the original poster. I think the problem is that Android is currently running from my SD card on my Tilt, so I don't know if it's possible to partition the card while Android is running.

I've got a Windows 7 PC at home, and I can boot it from a Linux CD if needed... but I'm a total Linux NEWB. I'd really appreciate it if someone can point me to instructions for how to partition a 4 GB SD card to accommodate an Androd build along with being accessible form Windows Mobile.

Can someone give an overview of the process and maybe some partition size guidelines?

Thanks,

-Brett.
[Tilt, TyTN II, MDA Vario III General] ChumleyEX:
Google Can

Gparted is good, it lets you resize partitions without formating them. It's part of the Ubuntu live cd's.

http://gparted.sourceforge.net/larry/resize/resizing.htm
[HD2 Accessories] derGrafZahl:
Hi to everyone,

just to let you know, I have added a section Accessories Modification to Leo Wiki and added a HowTo modify the regular htc headset to in-ear headset... basically a picture HowTo...

see

Leo WIKI Headphone Mod

:)
[HD2 Accessories] eskasi:
Very cool... now if I could only find someone to do it for me! Heheh...
[HD2 Accessories] donwhann:
very good mate, wanna do mine for me lol......theres no way i can do that.
[HD2 Accessories] p3eps:
I just did it a minute ago. I didn't realise my HD2 remote had controls on it as its never been out of the box - so I modified it for my snowboard helmet.

I put a male 3.5mm jack on the end instead of a set of headphones though. Buzzed through the 4 poles on the 3.5mm jack that I was using, and matched them up with the ones inside the remote. I left one of the ground (green) empty as I only needed one ground. Sitting with my helmet on just now listening to music testing it out!!

Thanks for the guide - very simple. I'll get some epoxy at work tomorrow to glue round the edges to make sure the cable doesnt pull out.

My next question is - I have MSVC installed, and the play button activates it. Is there any way to get this remote to control the volume... either normally or through MSVC?

Cheers...
[HD2 Accessories] derGrafZahl:
Sounds great! Would like to see a picture if you have one...

;)
[HD2 Accessories] p3eps:
Its just looks the same - but with a 3.5mm male plug on either end of the remote! I had to label them, as it only works one way round obviously!
[HD2 Accessories] derinahon:
Just followed your guide which worked a treat :) The innards of my remote are slightly different though, no sleeves to hold the wires in place, only this horrible glue/resin which is a real pain to remove. Used some super glue at the end which should hold the wires in place hopefully.

Good guide, thanks. I really hated those HTC earphones!
[HD2 Accessories] alecs:
Hi I am not sure I understand (probably just dumb) but I would appreciate it if you could explain or perhaps post pictures?
[HD2 Accessories] adam_r:
thank you for doing this write up. followed it and it worked perfectly :D.

had a bit of trouble soldering a connection peice accross the 2 negative points but apart from that it went very well :D
[HD2 Accessories] Starfury:
I've done a slightly different take on this, I snipped the lead between the control module and the headphones and soldered a inline 3.5mm jack socket. This enables me to plug my Sennheiser HD-25 headphones in without having to damage the lead and in fact plug any standard set of headphones in whilst keeping the full functionality of the remote module...
[HD2 Accessories] alecs:
Oh MY GOD I feel sooooo stupid I have had my head in the sand!!

Thanks for a simpler/common sense (less destructive) way

I started the mod on the wiki page and then sat back and thought why don't

I was also looking headphones that have volume control and realised the standard ones don't have volume control.

I will go down to the local store and get some half decent headphones and connect them up.

Just one thing, can you identify the correct wiring to the inline 3.5mm jack socket (pics would be great)
[HD2 Accessories] derGrafZahl:
I had it this way on my last sony ericsson cell phone headset. A 3.5mm cable right after the remote button. But the wire was short enough to not make the whole headset cable too long.

A volume control probably can be added like on other headphones. But the leo device won't respond to the volume control, rather a resistor will lower it externaly.

Thanks for contributing all the nice ideas. Keep it up!

;)
[HD2 Accessories] adamelphick:
Great guide. I used it to blend my crappy Leo headset base to my fab Audio Technica ATH-03 headset - thumping base at last!
[HD2 Accessories] alecs:
It must be me but I am struggling getting this to work well.

I have stripped the cables between the headphones and the remote control unit. This exposes 4 cables - 2 brass, 1 green, 1 red. I intend to wire these two a femail headphone socket so I can just use my own headphones.

The female headphone socket I need to attach these cables to has three terminals only (left, right and centre). I assume the left and right terminals are for red and green. However I have attached these and the sound is tinny. When I push one of the brass coloured cables onto either of the red or green terminal I get bass?

Can someone confirm what the cable connections should be?
[HD2 Accessories] derGrafZahl:
The copper colored wire is ground, red and green is left and right channel (don't know which is which, but keep the order). You can solder the two copper wires together but be also shure to get rid of the isolation of each wire or they won't have contact.
[HD2 Accessories] alecs:
GROUNDING !! I thought the cables looked a bit wierd when I took off the outer black cover. Now that is why it is tinny and it explains why the connections worked only when I touched the ends of the cables to the 3.5mm jack!!!

However the cables are so fine I am not sure how you would go about stripping any outer layer off. What tool do you use??

Also it appears that the outer coloured layers (red and green) are mixed in with what appears to be strands of what appear to be white fibre??

Note: I have just used tape to temporarily hold the outer female 3.5mm casing steady whilst I solder the connections.
[HD2 Accessories] derGrafZahl:
You can get rid of the isolation by using your solder iron. It basically melts off when it gets hot. But be sure not to free too much wire since you don't want them to connect after you have put everything together. The white fibre wires are a pain ***. Try to cut them of prior to soldering.

*beware: this is rather my noob experience with these headphone wires which I collected over time...* better ask an expert!
[HD2 Accessories] streetbob:
Hi,

does someone knows the HD2 headset handsfree pinout?

I want to connect a headset with microphone to the 3,5mm outlet.

I need these pinout to make a adaptor.

The headset I have tried wasn´t able to transmit the speech.

Thanks
[HD2 Accessories] felixdd:
Guys,

If you're worried about damaging the in-line controls, then don't access it. You can always do the previously-mentioned method of snipping the line downstream to the remote, and soldering on a 3.5mm port.

If you don't want the added bulk of a port, there's also a third method (which is what I chose to do). Dismantle the actual headphones themselves -- the driver is held to the casing only by a thin elastic band. Once in, you'll see the 2 leads soldered onto the driver. Remove them, untie the stopper knot.

Repeat this with the headphones of your choice, then transplant those onto the line.

This way, you're basically moving the cans onto the factory line, without losing length and putting the remote at risk.

Now all I need to do is find a software solution to use the in-line controls to control GSPlayer....
[HD2 Accessories] Mega Maniac:
Here is an image of my HTC inline remote with female 3.5mm jack attached. :)

And here is an image of my bandaged hand from picking up the wrong end of the soldering iron. :o

It actually wasn't too much of a difficult job, haven't done any soldering in a while and other than a couple of burns to my fingers it all went swimmingly.

God knows why they dont sell these things separately, defies belief.

Oh and to anyone living in the UK or anywhere else for that matter, I would happily do this job for you if you aren't handy with a soldering iron. Got alot from this forum so its only right to give something back. Obviously you would need to supply the female jack and I would offer no guarantees I'm not going to break you in-line remote but I would do my best :p. PM me if ya interested.
[HD2 Accessories] clockworxx:
Modifying headphone cable

This is a very interesting thread and I am thinking of doing something similar... However, and this question comes from a little too much knowledge of antennas, have you tried to maintain the overall cable length?

Either way, have you tested the FM radio on the HD2 with the modified cable and does it work adequately? The reception is influenced by the headset cable length (in theory!).
[HD2 Accessories] Robby69:
Hi,

does anyone have a complete schematic of the whole headset.

I found out that with the original one the FM radio sensitivity is much better as with other standard ones. Maybe there is something different compared to others.
[HD2 Accessories] derGrafZahl:
Hi,

@clockworxx: For the original modification (in Wiki) without a female 3.5mm jack I can say, that the cable length doesn't change. And if all connections are properly set, the quality of the antenna shouldn't vary. ANd this is what I've experienced with the headset as well. FM-Radio works fine. Because the cable is still a bit to long, I even have two or three loops of the wire taped together and it still works.

@Robby69: (At least I haven't, sorry!) Is the cable of the standard one the same length as the original HTC headset? As clockworxx states, cable length is an important factor. But I don't think, that there is a FM-amplifier build into the headset! What diameter do the wires have? I'm not sure if this effects signal strength.

Greets!
[HD2 Accessories] Robby69:
@derGrafZahl

I don't think there is any active amplifier for the FM radio inside the headset

but I have read on different places in the internet that there should be a FM radio antenna inside the headset.

Has someone found it or ist it just the wire to the earpiece.
[HD2 Accessories] Phenomenon:
lol awesome, and it works correctly? All the controls, the mic, play, pause? That's exactly what I'm going to do to mine. I think that's what HTC should start doing also. I mean, they essentially provide remote headphones with crappy buds anyways. Might as well skip the crappy buds part.
[HD2 Accessories] derGrafZahl:
Hi,

@Robby69: No I'm quite sure, that there is no inbuild antenna! It must be the wire to the earpiece. Otherwise a seperate wire should be going to the earpiece, I think. See both images on the wikipage, no seperate wire:
[HD2 Accessories] idonxda:
Hi, could you please tell me where did you buy the 3.mm female port, possible URLS, the problem is that none of the port comes with 4 wires (2 each of ear buds), they all come with 3 or 2 wires?

Thanks
[HD2 Accessories] frotna:
I've done the mod with Iluv headphones which have extra volume control on them and i'm very satisfied, especially after i found about this peace of software. At http://headsetbutton.com/ you can get app which allows us to use wired headset controls in majority of audio players (not only Windows Mobile player and Sense audio player but also Nitrogen, Pocket Music, TCPMP...)...

;)
[HD2 Accessories] derGrafZahl:
Hi idonxda,

as written in this thread before, you can connect the two copper colored wires and you end up with a three wired connection. ->standard 3.5mm female connector

The red and green wire have to go to different sides, but the copper wire can be shared... Do as described in the wiki and use a bridge to connect them.

Greets
[HD2 Accessories] Phenomenon:
Any chance someone can upload the procedure again? The new wiki pretty much screwed it up and doesn't show pics or anything.
[HD2 Accessories] ccezar2004:
pics... I need pics... thanks guys...
[HD2 Accessories] DN41:
hey mates,

did try that mod some time before..

but when i opened the housing, i recognized that its not quite similar to the one in the wiki...

i guess mine is casted (gegossen?!) :D

so i tried to connect the cable directly to the two cables of the original headset. but that failed, i didnt hear anything...

then i just threw it away..today i saw that thread and yeah..i wanna get it work :D

i pulled it into my hd2 and the control just works fine..

now my question: how can i get the sound work? i think its not possible to get the pcb out of the housing..

any hint?

thanks in advance,

DN41

edit:

ok guys =)

got it out...was not that easy, but it even works :)

now my question: look at the picture: how can i delete that, i think kind of, casting compound?

i think i've got another revision than in the wiki entry?

DN41
[HD2 Accessories] ccezar2004:
ok... how do i disassemble the buttons... i just pull them out?
[HD2 Accessories] DN41:
yeah, just put one fingernail in the one and the second in the other side of the remote control...you can easily pull them up.

edit:

so one more for me:

i was able to get the cable and coating compound away..not pretty clean for now but i will clean it now ;)

generally, i have the contacts open...

but now i dont know how to connect the new one with..the wiki entry is still there but the pictures are left..

any advice?

thanks mates...

edit:

hey there:

i've got a standard 3,5mm female plug..the cable has a red and a white seam (?) in it...there are also a few seams of copper (i think its ground or isolation?)

any advice how to solder them onto the RC?

DN41
[HD2 Accessories] ccezar2004:
ok... i got now my new htc-ipod headphones...

i just broke the old wires and took the headphones from my old ipod shuffle... when i tried to solder the wires i realised i don't have the necesarry tools so i went to a gsm service.... the guy there did a lousy job regarding accuracy but he did what i couldn't... solder the wires....

i went back home and finished the job with some improvisations and some super glue....

the result is in the picture (no focus i'm afraid)
[HD2 Accessories] DN41:
nice mate..

do you know which one solder to which contact?:D

DN41
[HD2 Accessories] ccezar2004:
my ipod headphones head also green and red wires so i just followed the old wires... from your picture i see you still have the colors there... if i remember well.... the green /red wires come first in the margin of the board... and then the other two wires towards the mic.... sorry i didn't take pictures... it would have been helpfull... but i was in such a hurry...
[HD2 Accessories] DN41:
was it a copper cable or like the htc...i mean those fiber...

ok..so i think i connect the red to red, the white to green and test it then...what about the copper?

DN41
[HD2 Accessories] ccezar2004:
i do not know what do you mean by copper... i guess the cable that actually is the same for both... you mean copper like colour wire?... those are on the mic side...
[HD2 Accessories] DN41:
i mean the new audio cable has one red isolated cable and one white isolated cable..

but suprisingly there are some non isolated copper seams...

do you understand?

DN41
[HD2 Accessories] ccezar2004:
in total you have 4 wires...

red+yellow (copper)

green+yellow (copper)

for left and right (not necessary this order)... i guess you have the red and green corespondents isolated (this is the actual left/right separation) and the non isolated ones... although they are two they share the same channel on the motherboard... and i suppose this is the reason they are not isolated...

i do not know if i was clear enough...

maybe this helps... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TRS_connector
[HD2 Accessories] DN41:
hey ccezar2004,

i just tried and thats what i got:

if i only connect these two isolated cables as colored on the picture, the sound is really miserable. it stutters and murmurs (? :D)

but when i connect the non isolated copper with one or both of the minus poles, it works fine.

so i have to solder it as colored in the picture.. :D

uh..i think i need many sensivity to solder that..i dont wanna brick the board...

DN41
[HD2 Accessories] derGrafZahl:
Hi, actually I'm a little pi**ed, that the images in the wiki are gone. When updating the wiki one should also make sure to keep all informations... I will ask the administrator because I have deleted my copies.

@DN41: yes, as far as I remember, this is the right combination. Mine had the "casting compound" too. I carefully scrated it off by using my fingernails or a thin and sharp plastic card.
[HD2 Accessories] ccezar2004:
dn41 hte combination from the photo should be the coorect one... that is what i tried to explain above...
[HD2 Accessories] derGrafZahl:
Ok, I have made a rather unwanted test:

I forgot to take out the head set from my pants before they got thrown into the washing machine. Sensitive care, 30°, 700rpm with an extra 1000 rpm afterwards.

And they are still working!

I don't know if this is the right way to clean them intensively, they weren't really dirty before. The remote still works. But still, don't try this on purpose. ;)
[HD2 Accessories] MAMeingast:
That is awesome! :D
[HD2 Accessories] derGrafZahl:
The images are up again. See the new wiki page for the pictures on the manipulation of the headset.

Wiki Leo_Earphones

;)
[HD2 Accessories] DN41:
great. thanks.

DN41
[HD2 Accessories] DN41:
once again me :P

ive got an HM-700 from a X1 here...i am wondering if i can use this to solder to the board..

its because i had some cables here, which hadnt got coppercables, but like the htc headset..and those dont work for me..so i need a headset with coppercables if i'm right...

does anyone know it? i dont wanna kill this nice headset :D

DN41
[HD2 Accessories] DN41:
i did it today.

soldering worked fine in my opinion...

sound works perfect, but surprisingly the buttons are out of work...

mh...it failed... :D

DN41