yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Android Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] _evasium:
Noob here, just stumbled upon installing GSI ROMS, installed stock again and relocked bootloader - lead to Red state.​

These are what I did:

boot into fastboot
unlocked bootloader
disabled verity and verification
flashed the vbmeta image
cleared some partitions
erased system (A/B)
flashed system (which is the GSI)
boot image from the updated firmware (not stock)
wiped cache, dalvik, format data
reboot
stuck in project elixir loading screen
reboot into fastboot - repeated steps 2 to 9, but with a different GSI
it worked well and figured i can't use banking apps with the state of my phone
forgot i can actually root my phone to use banking apps again
boot into fastboot, disable verity and verification, flashed vbmeta
cleared partitions, same steps as before
but i flashed the updated firmware system image (super.img, idk why it's called that)
flashed boot image from the same firmware
wiped cache dalvik and data
reboot
I'm back at the old state but I wanted to get rid of the orange state warning on boot
went back to fastboot
relocked the bootloader (i feel like a huge failure for doing this)

Now it's in red state, there's no way out of it, it keeps rebooting every 5 secs, combining keys are a waste of time, shorting the test point to enter BROM would take a lot of work especially my phone's back plate needs to be heated for it to be removed and i don't have the supplies. Tried every unlock tool, tried bypassing authentication. Nothing really worked, it's still in a loop. I hear the windows device connecting and disconnecting sound when it reboots and BROM can't be accessed. Is there any way I can fix the phone? I want to give it a try.[/CODE]

​

Here are the tools I've used so far:​

MTK bypass utility -

GitHub - MTK-bypass/bypass_utility

Contribute to MTK-bypass/bypass_utility development by creating an account on GitHub.

github.com

[/URL]

MCT MTK Bypass Rev4 - https://androidfilehost.com/?fid=17248734326145745679

SP Flash tool - https://spflashtool.com/download/

MTK Client -

https://github.com/bkerler/mtkclient[/CODE]

[/URL]

**picture for reference**
[Android Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] TechySkills:
You are not meant to erase... system, you just overwrite it... bruh.

why did you do this? its not even necessary its like an unnecessarsy step. also what do you mean by update firmware. stock firmware means the latest available firmware for your phone not the oldest one. bruh. one is supposed to update his phone completely and then flash GSI not the other way around.

Looks like you didn't even care to do even a little bit of research. Super.img is a partition; "Dynamic Partition" to be precise introduced in 2019-2020 from Android 10 - Android 11 Phones. It is a new partition "containing" the System, Product, and Vendor partition. It is more easier and flexible now to flash GSI's using these Dynamic Partitioning scheme. The thing you did there was flash the combo of these.

To get rid of that you need to first "FLASH STOCK FIRMWARE" (the latest one) THEN Lock the Bootloader.

Wow.... no words at this. LOL

Yes it is...

Your phone isn't a snapdragon lil bro, Your phone doesn't support the shorting BROM thingy.

Bro what do you think when a Phone is turning on and off, will it go to BROM? 💀 It needs to shut down.

Also the tools link you gave, does not support your chipset, I have a paid tool, If you want to fix your phone:

1st step would be either to wait untill all of its battery drained (not reccomended as some energy will still be there and most likely it would remember it was turning on so it would try to turn on again after restoration of power)

2nd step would be to use a Paid Flashing tool to flash your phone because your chipset (MT6769-H) is not supported by the Free Bypass tools.
[Motorola Razr 40 Ultra / Razr+ / Razr 2023] kitlobell:
Does anyone know a workaround for this? Google made some updates and now the google assistant cant be initiated from the front screen. You have to open the phone to give it commands. Prior to this, you would just press the button and the commands would initiate from the front screen.
[Android Head-Units] Tariguz:
Hi everyone i have tablet model K2001N, processor type T3L, android version 12. Today i updated OTA to latest version MCU to latest version, all to the latest version. But i cant update firmware i cant find latest firmware version.

APPVER: K2001N_JYT_S212303 ....

How to update to the latest version and can you help me how to get comunication from car board with android, my reverse camera does not work (fabric Hyuindai camera). Is there any option to use fabric camera with these android?

It doesn't even recognize my door when it's open. How do I fix it, does anyone know?

What i need to do to fix all that?

Tnx
[Android Head-Units] marchnz:
https://xdaforums.com/search/71021141/?q=K2001N&t=post&c[child_nodes]=1&c[nodes][0]=4267&o=relevance
[Sony Xperia 1 Questions & Answers] Redstoneinvente:
Hi all,

I'm facing some serious display problems with my Xperia [Your Xperia 1's model name]. Here's a breakdown of what's happening:

Initial Symptoms

Colored noise: Dots across the display (mostly red, green, or blue)

Stuck pixels: Again, red, green, or blue

Color Shifting: Blue channel overactive at low brightness, green/blue tint shifts

AOD Issues (Before Factory Reset): Distorted sticker images, green lines

Current State

Display won't turn on

When it does: Grainy, dim green tint at the bottom, occasional bright green pixels.

Sometimes the screen lights up with a noisy, green background

Touch input IS working – I managed to "blindly" unlock the phone

Other Notes

I did a factory reset which resolved the AOD issues but not the main display problem.

Has anyone experienced anything similar, or have ideas on what could be causing this? I'd greatly appreciate any troubleshooting advice or insight into potential hardware faults.

Thanks in advance!

View attachment 6090019
[Sony Xperia 1 Questions & Answers] Galaxy S7 Nutzer:
have you tried completly reflashing android?
[P3300, MDA Compact III ROM Development] hrm5023:
Is there any possibility to get Meschele's roms?

I have been hearing a lot about his roms is there anyway I can get one of his roms links or download files or anything??
[P3300, MDA Compact III ROM Development] shamreez:
just search for Artemis touch ROMS (Vanilla 4.2)

Some one has uploaded all his ROMS to one thread so it would be easy to find
[P3300, MDA Compact III ROM Development] sybeer:
If you dont need HTC Home I sugest to use no_nonsense_2 ROM made by

sheennick123456 no_nonsense_2 ROM. This one has OPAL dialer - my favorite one.

I finally flashed it to my Artemis few days ago (after test many ROM's from this site) and I'm very glad to ued it.

or

Clean ROM by sheennick123456

Both are WM 6.1

ps

this is not commercial post ;)
[P3300, MDA Compact III ROM Development] hrm5023:
Ty

Thanks for your replies
[MTCD Android Head Units General] typos1:
I've got some motherboards from old units of mine and from used units I bought from ebay for spares. Thought I'd try and get some working, no luck so far so hey may as well ask for help here 😁.

I have 2 KGL mtcd boards that have screen issues - one the screen is dark grey or black, if I rotate the brightness adjustment screw it will go white but I cant get a picture (well I can see some vague shadows). The other is similar but it's a dark screen with vertical lines, again the brightness screw does have an effect I just get no picture. The screen I'm using works fine on my other unit so it's not the issue, it's like it's something to do with the display driver but where is it?? I've tried a couple of known working soms but still the same.

I have another KGL board that makes my power supply act funny - instead of powering up the power supply just clicks and nothing happens, it works fine with everything else ! Weird.

Wrong forum really but I've also got a KGL mtcb unit that powers up for anything from a few seconds to a minute but then shuts down and won't power on for at least an hour after. I haven't touched it for a few years but there was an issue with it last time I used it just cant remember what, when I first tried it a few days ago it seemed to work ok, it was only when I changed the led colours that it started this behaviour. On the unit it came from the red leds had stopped working so I changed the boards from the front panel which sorted the led problem but (possibly) caused the shut down issue.

They're all KGL 🤔 lol.
[MTCD Android Head Units General] marchnz:
Hi mate,

The screen issue sounds like display/driver failure.

The second, powersupply clicking, I'm willing to wager has a short, first things to check are crowbar/polarity protection diode, and audio power amp IC, but first check supply connection is correct, as I have seen a harness that is reversed.

The third, perhaps a led driver short.
[MTCD Android Head Units General] typos1:
Hey man thanks for your response - I was hoping it was you that replied !

I guessed it might be the display driver but where is it any ideas ? - just been searching the forums for info found none. I've got enough old boards to scavenge one from just need to know what and where it is !

Supply connection deffo correct - I'm using the same KGL loom to power them all (I learnt to always check before plugging in and NEVER assume that all units are wired the same after a loud bang and loads of smoke years ago ! Luckily only the loom fried!). Wtf is a crowbar in relation to electronics ?! And where is the polarity protection diode ?

Yeah the third I thought could be to do with the leds but no idea where the driver is. I'm guessing on the mobn as I changed the front panel and to one with working rgb leds and it still does it. I'm trying to avoid having td change an amp IC as the other board I have for that one has a fried one and I thinking it'll be a ball acid to replace it. I might get one of these :

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006273165868.html?spm=a2g0n.shopcart.0.0.77fd38dao0pPUm&mp=1

if I cant sort it they're cheap enough and pretty much the same amp ic with the added benefit of a DSP. Cant see it would be good to use it as they suggest tho - amplifying everything twice but read some good reviews and a couple of bad ones. Would get people with fried amp chips out of a hole tho and much easier than all that soldering.

Sorry for all the questions but xda isn't coming up with any of the info I need.

Typos.
[MTCD Android Head Units General] typos1:
Using a schematic from an old thread of yours I ve found an FMS6502 video switch is this the display driver ?

A few years back I put a ribbon connector upside down on these units which I think caused the issue - I had thought that the connectors only had contacts on one side but they don't so put them upside down can dry them.
[MTCD Android Head Units General] typos1:
I put the mobo from the unit with faulty rgb leds back in the original unit and non the red leds work - they didn't before - but blue and red are reversed. It stays on for longer but still shuts down. Gonna try and turn off rgb in factory settings and see if it still shuts down - might just be coincidence and not related to the leds at all.
[MTCD Android Head Units General] marchnz:
Hi,

Always have time for helping you, you're one of the remaining contributing members mate and helped me a massive bunch! Still have time for the mtcx platform too, it could be so good, but seems there's little to no development by HCT on software bugs.

I still have my unit sitting in a box, used to help recovering member SOMs, I've had SOMs sent to me from all around the world, sometimes twice! I enjoy the hardware side a lot, and seems this is becoming a lost art - although the memory chip replacement on the early 1gb SOMs was a real surprise to see members going to massive and risky lenghts, very cool. Where has that gone...seems there are two "modders" remaining based in RU who's interest is earning a buck from the naive.

Also hat tip to the members who reverse engineered the MCU to give us real audio eq control, the canbus project and free software mods to fix bugs....

The display driver on the LCD panel. It's likely it's unserviceable, but now you've mentioned it, could the Flat flex cable be damaged? Worth having a check under magnifying glass. Should be able to find a replacement panel easy enough on Ali, I think they're a generic. Have you exhausted mcu ext settings?

A "crowbar" is a component, usually a diode that is across the powersupply, designed to blow the fuse if polarity is reversed. A simple check with a multimeter set to DIODE range across the +12, acc and ground will indicate a very low value (short) if this has failed or a failure of that black rectangular power amp IC that sits on the back aluminum pack panel with the white heatsink compound.

This is likely as you mentioned that the power pack clicks on/off when connected, indicating short, or current overload protection is kicking in. What is the powersupply being used and details, max current etc?

Replacing the power amp IC isn't all that tricky, good solder suckered and solder wick, as it's a through hole component type. Easy.

I could circle a few thinks on the schematic for you to check?
[MTCD Android Head Units General] jogobelo:
Hello, I will also join, I have a couple of LCD boards that are not working and I would like to fix them, but there is no complete schematic anywhere, does anyone have something like this please? Alternatively, where can it be bought?
[MTCD Android Head Units General] marchnz:
At a guess, the fault there is the LCD display controller itself, usually integral to the panel.
[MTCD Android Head Units General] typos1:
Thanks for your reply mate. Not tried anything yet cos been busy with others things.

Not sure if you've got a bit confused - my post was very long ! - but your advice about the crowbar was correct and I now have a unit that boots, (the power supply no longer clicks). Or at least appears to boot with a known working som (leds come on) but known working screens are totally black. I tested both the broken one and the donor one on the boards before I removed them. So I have got somewhere ! Now I have 1 Kgl mtcd unit that boots to a black screen and 2 kgl mtcd units that boot but known working displays light up but have horizontal or vertical (cant remember which) lines on. Any suggestions for the blank screen one ? Or do I just try the advice you gave for the 2 with screens that light up but show lines and no picture ?

Any suggestions for the kgl mtcb unit that shuts down after a bit ? (tho wrong forum really I guess).

And for the unit with bad audio (didn't mention it before actually but this is kgl mtcb too so I will move the bits of our chat that refer to mtcb units to a new thread in the mtcb forum later). I guess I should check the audio chip (wolfson?) first before removing the amp IC ? Cos if it's the audio chip it's pointless removing the amp ? I ask this cos from your reply it appears you may have thought I was talking about different units.

Yeah it can be fun and I've been pretty successful with all the mods and repairs I've done to mine and friends and family's units over the years but these 3 have really stumped me ! And I've only got one working car at the moment and no other units to fit or cash to buy one ! So no music or bt phone is a pain !
[MTCD Android Head Units General] marchnz:
QUOTED - replies inline:

Replies *****

Thanks for your reply mate. Not tried anything yet cos been busy with others things.

Not sure if you've got a bit confused - my post was very long ! - but your advice about the crowbar was correct and I now have a unit that boots, (the power supply no longer clicks). Or at least appears to boot with a known working som (leds come on) but known working screens are totally black. I tested both the broken one and the donor one on the boards before I removed them. So I have got somewhere !

**********Yes understood 100%

Now I have 1 Kgl mtcd unit that boots to a black screen and 2 kgl mtcd units that boot but known working displays light up but have horizontal or vertical (cant remember which) lines on. Any suggestions for the blank screen one ? Or do I just try the advice you gave for the 2 with screens that light up but show lines and no picture ?

***************** double check this:

** OK, got it. May have shorted +5v supply to tft. Check +5v, pins vary between Wilson and generic schematic - pin 3,4,5,6 (check if grnd on pin 50, the opp end, then use this) or listed as 34,35,36 +5v (you should have ground on 47, 46 and 6.) Difference looks to be a 57pjn connector on one and 50 the other, if that makes it easier to ID.

Also check U16 FMS6502, video processor, especially +5 pin 20. Results?

*******************

Any suggestions for the kgl mtcb unit that shuts down after a bit ? (tho wrong forum really I guess).

**********

Try freeze spray carefully on a couple of components at a time. This might help locate a faulty component.

**********

And for the unit with bad audio (didn't mention it before actually but this is kgl mtcb too so I will move the bits of our chat that refer td mtcb units to a new thread in the mtcb forum later). I guess I should check the audio chip (wolfson?) first before removing the amp IC ? Cos if it's the audio chip it's pointless removing the amp ?

^*****correct****^^^^^^^

I ask this cos from your reply it appears you may have thought I was talking about different units.

Yeah it can be fun and I've been pretty successful with all the mods and repairs I've done to mine and friends and family's units over the years but these 5 have really stumped me ! And I've only got one working car at the moment and no other units to fit or cash to buy one ! So no music or bt phone is a pain !

[Ended quote]

Enjoy have fun man - lots to learn from having a go and using the above approaches. Especially techniques like using freeze spray. There's probably youtube vids on that one!
[MTCD Android Head Units General] typos1:
Thanks for your response mate, really appreciated.

Are you talking about the main SOM connector ? Or the mcu ? Or the connector for the lcd cable ? Apart from ground on pin 50 what am I checking for ? 5v on all mentioned pins ? Or check polarity ? And what's the fix if reversed polarity/no 5v/short ? "Then use this" - is there a link missing from your reply or do you mean check pins 3,4,5,6 if ground on pin 50

Check for what ? Really no idea what to check apart from maybe 5v on pin 20

Thanks but again what do I check ?
[MTCD Android Head Units General] marchnz:
Check at the main board to Display board connector. You're validating that +5v appears on both sides of the connector. These are common failure points, you see.

The fix, assuming problem there such as missing +5, is to trace thru and find out why it's missing. This could be a dry solder joint, or failed component if it's been shorted out, as I suspect it has. Post your results and let's go from there, this will save loads of typing if it's not an issue, and help us focus on diagnosis, then fix.

Same for audio/dsp/switch IC. And also, if you have the ability to check signals as they appear on the outputs of that device. If it's crackle or no audio, deffo check the supply pins first.

My general process is investigate - identify cause - identify root cause - remediate.

With the video IC, yes start with voltage checks.

Also look for visual issues, use a magnifying glass, check for things like smoke released from component (a slight Crack or circle pattern in an IC, bulging/discolouration on components) as a visual clue.

It's incredibly difficult to know what specific advice to give you, I'd really like to be able to say "just replace component xxx" but that could be wrong, expensive and lead us down a huge rabbit hole.

Completely happy to help out and guide you through the process that I'd use, and there are no guarantees we will find and fix. Just too consider that I really don't know your level of experience and expertise, and I've also probably assumed you know alot more than you possibly do, on the basis of your removing the crowbar diode.

It will also take some effort and a bunch of posts, so if you're good with that, let's roll on. I
[MTCD Android Head Units General] typos1:
Thanks mate.

I've spent hours looking at the damn things with a magnifying glass and I've taken numerous pictures with my phones zoom lenses but nothing looks wrong. I've also felt the tops of all the capacitors multiples times and also nothing seems bad. So I suspect like you that it's shorts due to my previously mentioned incorrect orientation of the ribbon cables (at least with the tfts the audio problem unit came to me with issues).

I can check signals on the out put of the bad audio unit (or did you mean at the pins of the wolf'son chip ?) but as it's very low volume and very distorted I'm not sure there's any point - using the RCAs still gives the issue so I guess it must be the audio chip and the more I think about it the more I think I should just replace it but I guess I'd like to be certain first.

I have no formal electronics training but I have 9 years of experience with these devices lol - I've learnt stuff from here and figured out some stuff myself. I'm the type of guy that's usually fixes stuff himself - cars buildings phones computers software etc. I guess you're sposed to remove crowbars before testing from what you say but without removing dead one gave incorrect readings and the good one gave the correct readings.

Maybe I should post some pics ?

Anyway thanks for your reply . . . watch this space for more lol
[MTCD Android Head Units General] typos1:
I've found a possible issue - I've seen it before but disregarded it because it looks like it's supposed to be like it - 2 pins are touching the same solder pad. I've taken multiple pics most look like it's a short but a few as I say look like it's supposed to be like it, it's so hard to get a pic even with a zoom lenses and a magnifying glass.

I've tried scraping off the solder between the pins but copper shows through so I guess it's supposed to be like it and it's a large solder pad specifically cos those 2 pins have the same contact. What do you think?

Thinking about the 2 that have grey screens with lines on - there must be power to them because the tft is powering up، so I guess with these 2 it must be the video controller chip or something else. The one with a black screen one I think has a no power to tft problem. So added some pics of the board and there are 2 resistor thingies that are marked tft 5v might test those, cant find any controller for the tft though. I think I should add that these are the tyres that have no board for the screen, the tft has a ribbon connector directly connected to the mobo.

Was about to test for 5v but my circuit testers probes are way too big What's the solution in this case - tape pins to them?

Edit: right some weird progress - just tested some screens on the one that had a black screen (the one I replaced the crowbar on) and the two 9" screens I have now work albeit with strange reversed colours - see last pic) but the 7" screen I tested it with works fine bizarrely. No idea why I'm getting something now when screens were black before - I haven't done anything to this board since replacing the crowbar and testing screens (apart from stare at it for hours and take pictures). Why the colours are weird with the 9" screens and not the 7 I don't know. All 3 screens were tested on am LM mtcd unit and all work fine or at least the did when I last tested them in it guess I should try them in it again.
[LG G5 Questions & Answers] oliverjames:
I cannot start or turn off the phone using the start button. In fact the start button is not causing any action on the phone's OS. I've just replaced it for a 2nd time but the problem remains. The LG G5 performs well but this issue is annoying. Please can anyone tell me what the issue is, and how I can fix it?

PS. The power button's integrated fingerprint scanner doesn't work either, which suggests this may be due to an internal electrical contact problem.