[Samsung Galaxy S24 Ultra] Maxazarov19:
Greetings to all, friends!

I'm glad to present my work for AGC9.2v6 (this config is also suitable for the latest AGC9.14v14, but I still recommend it for 9.2) -

MAZAR EXTENDED v3 for S23u and S24u.

I tried my best to make the config relevant for a long time, since I am temporarily stopping work on new configs (due to the exhaustion, first of all, of gcam itself and its capabilities). Well, I’ll do new work when there really is a new gcam (and not minor updates, which don’t really bring anything significant). The most I will do for now is to adapt this config to the new gcams.

So, the new Extended v3 brings many changes and a fundamental approach to photography.

Also, the SPORT mode, which is very important for many, has lost artifacts when moving! This is the most important correction (I’m saying ahead of time)

Changes:

1) the noise reduction algorithm has been changed for both ZSL and HDRE (NS) modes. The emphasis is on detail, but to compensate for the noise I set Spatial A and B to minus values (to hide unnecessary artifacts.). New noise reduction settings have also been introduced due to the “B” New Denoise parameters

2) the Sabre operating algorithm has been changed (thanks to a higher threshold for Saber 1 and Saber 3). Texture development has also improved thanks to this

3) improved SPORT mode. Now it does not produce artifacts when moving on any modules. It has also become more versatile. But I still recommend it more in good lighting (shutter speed is limited to 1/250. It only runs in NS!

4) HDR modes (NS) were significantly removed in terms of movement in daytime conditions (shutter speed can reach 1/2500, and even 1/5000 during the day!). In this case, the frames in the stitching are 40. In addition to MAX HDR, there are 45. Also, to avoid blurring, I limited the HDR modes to 1/13 (HDR MAX - to 1/10)

5) Reworked light/shadow settings. Now dehaze is controlled by two parameters - main dehaze (0.375) and dehaze 2 (0.750). Thanks to this, I more finely adjusted the volume of images (and the black depth). The overall exposure does not tend to be light, but for this there is a Bright mode (where the HDR threshold is higher and, accordingly, the brightness of the shadows is higher).

6) overall color rendering has been updated and has become more accurate on all devices

7) ZOOM mode also became a little better when the light deteriorated

8) the overall sharpness and its radius have been redesigned (Polysharp)

9) updated icon design for modes for clearer perception

10) updated the names of the modes (more on this below in the description of the modes. MUST READ!)

11) General post-processing has also been significantly improved for more stable photo processing. The frame buffer has been optimized and the buffer factor has been increased for greater processing stability

12) the number of autofocus frames has been increased to avoid out-of-focus frames

13) various artifacts during gluing have been eliminated in general

14) some changes related to reducing shutter lag in general in ZSL modes (LDR)

15) various minor changes aimed at the overall stability of the camera

Description of shooting modes

Shooting modes in my config and their use:

Before describing the modes, I will say that they are divided into LDR modes and HDR (LDR is a ZSL mode with a more limited dynamic range, but with better shooting in motion, and HDR is frames with NS, which have a higher dynamic range, but work worse in plan of movements when light deteriorates).

1) MAIN LDR 📸 - universal photo mode. Suitable for many scenarios. But in the dark it is better to use some HDR mode (more on that later)

The mode starts in ZSL (the photo is taken immediately after the shutter is released, that is, the images are taken from the buffer in advance and then stitched into one photo).

2) VIBRANT LDR 🎨 🌹 - essentially the same as MAIN LDR, but has more saturated colors and slightly higher contrast. The mode is well suited for shooting food, some colored objects to highlight the color, etc.

3) BRIGHT ☀️ - another and last mode in ZSL. Same as MAIN LDR, but brighter in the shadows. You can use it on a bright sunny day if MAIN LDR doesn't seem bright enough for you.

4) MAIN HDR🌅 🌃 is a fairly universal mode. It has a wider dynamic range than MAIN LDR and is also suitable for darker scenarios such as night mode. Since the mode starts in NS (Night Sight), unlike ZSL, frames are stitched together after pressing the shutter button. The mode is very suitable for static objects, but not so much for moving ones. Therefore, MAIN LDR behaves more confidently in this regard.

5) VIBRANT HDR 🎨 🌅 - the same as MAIN HDR, but has more saturated colors and slightly higher contrast. Also use the same as VIBRANT LDR mode if you want a more colorful picture.

6) MAX HDR 🌅 🌉 - a more advanced analogue of MAIN HDR. It differs from MAIN HDR in that it is even lighter in the dark (higher ISO), has more frames stitched (45) and has a slightly longer shutter speed (1/10), so it is ideal for night scenarios. But due to the large number of frames, unlike MAIN HDR, image processing takes longer, so you need to wait until the processing is completed before taking the next frame. (This also applies to MAIN HDR!!!)

7) SPORT ⛹️ - a mode designed for fast-moving objects (for movement). Shutter speed is limited to 1/250 (daytime to 1/2000). Use during the day, but I don’t recommend it if the light gets worse!

Works only in NS (runs in it). If the light deteriorates, do not expect good results - after all, a short shutter speed makes itself felt (the 1x module is stronger in this regard - it will still be possible partially)

8) DARK HDR 🌇 - the same as MAX HDR, but darker in exposure and shadows - suitable for atmospheric evening photographs with signs, for example. Use it if HDR NS seems to produce a bright picture at night and you want to tone down the extra lightness. That is, the regime is given for variety

9) ASTRO 🌠 - essentially a dual-purpose mode (2 in 1). Mainly used for astrophotography. To do this, it is better to put the phone on a tripod, press the astro button in the viewfinder, after which stars will appear on the shutter button (ASTRO is activated), then press the shutter button and wait until the photo is ready. taken. There's a lot of time, and it's up to you to decide when to stop filming!

The second purpose of the ASTRO mode is shooting in pitch darkness, when even MAX HDR cannot cope. To use ASTRO as an extreme night mode, you do not need to turn on the button, but simply shoot in NS and that’s it, and it is advisable not to move the phone, because there is a high probability of blurring.

10) ZOOM 🔍 - this mode is available ONLY on a lens with 10x zoom (for s23u, and 5x for S24u) and is used for maximum zoom. Runs in ZSL

How to use :

1) DO NOT use ZOOM ZSL at 10x magnification. It is intended for 15x and up! (Preferably 20x and above). And here it gives an advantage over just Main ZSL with crop. Keep in mind !

2) I recommend using it outdoors during the day, or indoors, on some signs too, but not in poor lighting!

3) this mode is not suitable for moving objects due to upscale! This is more for static

Useful notes and nuances for use.

To avoid unnecessary questions, I will explain some points and once again repeat everything that was said earlier. Please read!

1. Gcam launches HDR modes in NS (Night Sight). When you exit the camera and re-open NS, the mode switches to “photo”, that is, to ZSL. Therefore, you need to swipe back to NS again! This is a feature of all gcam mods!

2. SPORT mode is also available in NS! You might ask: why not ZSL? It's simple: in NS (HDRE) you can adjust the shutter speed, but in ZSL you can't. That's why it's meant to be

3. HDR photos may not seem bright enough compared to the stock camera's night mode. That’s what I intended - excessive highlighting kills the naturalness of night shots. ASTRO mode will give you the brightest shots, but the shutter speed is long and there may be blur. Keep in mind ! In principle, MAX HDR is enough for most dark scenarios.

4. To launch ASTRO, you need to select this tile in my config, and then activate the ASTRO button in the viewfinder (otherwise it will just be a night shot in NS). Next, put it on a tripod and press the shutter button. The camera will take photos indefinitely and you need to decide for yourself when to stop shooting. It is important!!!

5. The emphasis in this config is on the quality of images. Therefore, even in ZSL (LDR) modes, do not rush to take photos and immediately put the phone away or suddenly go to the gallery - let the camera stitch the frames together normally to avoid blurring.

HDR modes have Spatial RGB gluing. Many frames are involved in gluing and therefore the process places a certain load on the phone. Whenever you finish stitching frames in this mode, don’t forget to wait until the end of frame processing to avoid defects! (The flash drive icon lights up and indicates that processing is in progress. As soon as it goes out, image processing is completed. This applies to all shooting modes!)

Conclusions and my future plans

Once again I want to thank all the people who helped me with configs in the group, tested and helped with color adjustments, etc. Many thanks for your support!

Time passes, and in my opinion, the stock S24u camera with updates suits me more and more. And I use Gcam as an additional tool to get more interesting results in certain conditions. My point is that now gcam does not offer anything new as it did before, but the margin of safety is still considerable! I'll wait for the next new gcam. I can’t say what he will bring, but now I have decided to postpone this matter for now. The config that I made will be relevant for a long time.

In the summer I hope he will give you a lot of decent shots.

Happy photography everyone!

Your MAZAR

if anyone wants to join my group, write to me in PM

link to AGC (download with Samsung signature):

BigKaka: AGC9.2.14_V6.0

Download AGC9.2.14_V6.0 by BigKaka.

www.celsoazevedo.com

Configs below(don't forget to unpack the archive!)