yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Vivo X90 Pro Plus] kevin_23:
I don't know where you get your information from but I have had the new vivo x100 pro since yesterday and it records with the selfie camera in 4k at 60 fps with amazing quality thanks to the new update, it also has reversible wireless charging... it is one of the best current top of the range, and yes, the screen looks incredible and very bright, I have the 1 tera version
[Vivo X90 Pro Plus] extremecarver:
The update about the 4k selfie cam wasn't there yet, but anyhow the selfie cam is no good. The back cameras are better right now than Samsung. The display is was worse however both in power consumption when cranked up outdoors as well as in color accuracy. And the modem burns through battery on 5G like no tomorrow if reception on the brink same as X90PP. Maybe it's better if you have 5G SA but 5G NSA is a disaster with that modem.

And that's not talking vivo software yet with it's limitations...

Honor Magic 6 pro for me personally would be the phone to get but only global version this year. Camera beats vivo, battery life beats everyone (well to be seen it global version gets the 5600mah battery) as they use Snapdragon and x75 modem unlike BBK that is too cheap for x*5 modem even when using Snapdragon and the software isn't that bad. Yeah far away from pixel and Samsung but better the rest of the crop.
[Vivo X90 Pro Plus] kevin_23:
I am writing from my vivo x100 pro and I can record in 4k at 60 fps on a selfie camera. Are you hesitating or something?
[Vivo X90 Pro Plus] mbfamily:
It's off-topic but might be interesting for some. I recently bought the Oneplus 12 and compared it to the Vivo. It's almost the same phone, but with Global software (and even unlockable bootloader) and better battery life. Cameras are identical except for the missing 2x lens. The display is better / brighter, touchscreen is a little bit less sensitive. Battery life is amazing. And you get an IR blaster. If you like the X90 Pro+ but want global software or better battery life, the Oneplus 12 is worth a look.

EDIT: GCam colors are correct on the OP12 too. Big plus for me. :cool:
[Vivo X90 Pro Plus] jopaxxx:
I dont agree, sold One Plus 12 after just two days. The camera is so huge but nothing special, both devices are almost the same in terms of other specs, but One Plus 12 doesnt feel that premium like Vivo X100 Pro.
[Vivo X90 Pro Plus] pasinduxz:
is there a way to download vivo x100 origin os stock firmware?
[Vivo X90 Pro Plus] RAMChYLD:
How does the Dimensity 9300 compare to the Snapdragon 8 Gen 3? I'm mulling getting a X100P myself, My ROGPhone 3 died a sudden death and Asus wanted to charge me an arm and a leg to repair it, and given the shenanigans I went through since with the RP3, I won't be getting another Asus Phone. My telco is offering me a X100P on the cheap should I go through with a plan upgrade. The X100P seems to tick all my checkboxes in regards to world multi 4G/5G band support (albeit just barely), but I'm getting mixed information about the performance of the Dimensity 9300 itself, Some sites say it smokes the 8Gen3 while others say the 8Gen3 leaves it in the dust. I would like some clarification on that since I play a very heavy MMO on my phone (for an idea as to how bad, theres a 100 players vs superboss event 4 times a day. Said event brings my iPad to it's knees even at lowest graphical settings).

Edit: already took the plan, no choice. Seems to handle the game fine but I don't like how the GPU is pegged to 100% at normal settings...
[Vivo X90 Pro Plus] Knotte:
Not true, the Oneplus 12 uses a 1/1.43" Sony LYTIA-T808 sensor with 1.12 µm pixel size, while the Vivo 90Pro/100Pro have the big 1" Sony IMX989 with 1.60 µm pixels.
[Vivo X90 Pro Plus] mbfamily:
It is true. I tested the OP12 with LYT808 vs the X90PP with IMX989 with stock cam , GCam and RAW in good and bad lighting and high dynamic range settings. The difference is almost not noticeable. OP12 has a better lens and larger aperture, which makes up for the smaller sensor. And the 3x and UW lenses are basically identical. OP12 is basically a global X90PP without the 2x lens.
[Vivo X90 Pro Plus] Knotte:
Alright. Since I never get the chance to compare numerous phones myself, I rely on GSMArena's photo and video samples. While the OP12 really shines in photo quality and details (better than the Vivo X90P, but worse than the X100P), it obviously sucks at video recording (even compared to the X90P), which is my main purpose:

Video compare OnePlus 12 vs. vivo X90 Pro vs. vivo X100 Pro - GSMArena.com

www.gsmarena.com
[Mechanical keyboards] krbjmpr:
Target OS: Android 7.1 / 9

Need to add a few remote buttons: Typical media controls (play-pause, prev track, seek reverse, seek forward, next track, vol up, vol down) and shortcuts to apps (home, settings, user app 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8)

Not sure which way to go at the moment, looking for feedback on keyboard modifications and use of gaming switch controller.

Tried a gamer pad, didn't work out as required a program to run in background (Windows 10). Not ideal for Android OS.

Tried a wireless (bt) media pad. Works, but there are long delays of up to 4 or 5 seconds if a stream is in progress. No stream = no delay. Another media pad, wired, required a driver to be installed. Not good for Android.

Looking at 2 different approaches now.

First is finding a usb wired keyboard with media buttons, remove controller, and add switches to row / column. Media buttons and numeric keypad switches to be used. Advantage is Host OS should see as regular keyboard and associated data stream. Android would require recapped app to associate with programs / home.

Second is using a "zero delay arcade joystick controller" that has input for discrete switches, no matrix used. Haven't been able to play with one yet, but have read controller is not recognized as a keyboard, but something else. It is generally the gaming app (or emulator) that interprets the inputs and applies them in game. For Android, may be able to use the Accessibility Switch ability to recognize and apply key codes as needed. Advantage would be avoiding 'stepping on other keyboards, and perhaps no additional software required.
[Mechanical keyboards] Renate:
This can get complicated...

There is basically three ways to do this:

Unrooted, use any keypad (say 10 key numeric) and make a custom keylayout and inject it with an app that has android.hardware.input.action.QUERY_KEYBOARD_LAYOUTS

Unrooted, use a programmable keypad or a microcontroller to generate the exact USB equivalent keystrokes needed.

Rooted, use any keypad and install /system/usr/keylayout/Vendor_1234_Product_5678.kl that matches the VID/PID to map the keys.

The disadvantage of #1 is that is is global. You can't have some goofy mapping for controls and then use a regular BT keyboard for typing.

#3 Gives the most versatility. I can use an English keyboard, a Russian keyboard and a control keyfob simultaneously without selecting any languages.
[Mechanical keyboards] krbjmpr:
The target tablet is rooted (Magisk).

I have already discovered what happens when 1 'keyboard' steps on another. Would have been too simple if keycode xxxx from hid yyyyyyyy is mapped to zzzzz function. Instead, keycode from anysource is routed to map/ remap.

I don't normally use a keyboard, other than the onscreen. The bt media pad is a joke indeed. It's merely there to get me by, avoiding reach to tablet from driver seat.

Eventually, membrane switches will be incorporated into console, connected to ??? Controller, connected to USB hub, connected to tablet via USB-C.

Was leaning toward an external 10key pad, math keys for media control, number keys for app switching. Since keyboard 0-9 + - / . have different codes than 10key portion, should work, but require a mapper app. I can't drop a map in as I anticipate much change / evolution. Maybe in a couple years of regular use will have a pattern relatively set in stone.

The arcade switch controller is something I just found and am looking into. Since it doesn't identify as keyboard, may be able to use Android Accessibility USB Switch service to do maps for me, and not even need root.

About to pull trigger (pun intended) on this one, and see how well it may work out. 20 switches, plus joystick. Should fill / satisfy my need to control. ;)

https://a.co/d/5XHg7k2

Membrane switches I am looking at have a 50ohm (max) loop resistance. Might end up replicating 5vdc at switch rather than from controller. So far, research on these indicate common 5vdc, with inputs pulled low and activated with logic high.
[Mechanical keyboards] Renate:
Here's my steering wheel controls.

Half the keys are hotkeys for apps, half are volume, brightness, sleep.

To have app hotkeys you do need some sort of service running.

This works on BT, it steals power from the horn (because I don't have a "clockspring").

This is the central cushion thing as removed from the steering wheel. It just snaps in. The horn still works.
[Mechanical keyboards] krbjmpr:
I had THAT EXACT same thought, and was ready to expand on it, but ran into 2 problems.

1) The BT is very slow when streaming, Works otherwise. I wonder if a USB / BT adapter would work? Essentially give tablet 2 BT channels, but only knows about 1.

2) I have airbag. Don't want something like that blowing into my face. That being said, if membrane switches work out, will later incorporate them into wheel center similar to yours, but move towards edges and away from where pad splits and airbag emerges. I fully anticipate getting another cover from junkyard, and carving out the .5 or 1mm squares to flush mount membrane switches if I can't figure out how to put them INSIDE the cover, and just push on an icon.

I have a clock spring on mine, also have factory radio controls. Haven't found a way to control tablet with those, but have traced wiring from clock spring direct to the radio. Certainly won't be high-speed, but may eventually get USB1.1 functionality.

For me,mthe key for all of this is to get away fromBT controls. Just too juch delay (BT4, I think).
[Mechanical keyboards] Renate:
I never had any problem with BT delay, although I am often BT streaming from phone to cheapy BT radio.

The biggest headache was to get so that app switches occur without any animation.

I can switch between apps (multiple maps, system status, OBD) and it's like a video switcher.

You push a button and blam!

The OBD runs on USB. I don't like to BT unless it's necessary.

I guess that I could retrofit a clockspring for USB.
[Mechanical keyboards] krbjmpr:
Oh, maybe that is biggest factor. My radio is BT, for only calls (old factory) so have to use a powered BT adapter on LineIn. My OBD MAX adapter (for torque pro) is BT. Literally a delay of up to 4 or 5 seconds, but at least 2 seconds before something responds to button push. If not streaming, is instantaneous. Did not consider the constant data flow from OBD, and I have a LOT of sensors being polled / displayed.
[Mechanical keyboards] Renate:
Ha, I just remembered in my "counting of ways" that I actually did it a 4) way.

Make your BT remote a custom GATT device.

Since it's custom Android will turn up its nose at it and not try to make it an input device.

Usually, the annoying thing about doing this is that it requires a Service to connect to your custom Gatt and do something useful.

But for hotkeys for apps that's what we actually want.

You could make your BT device with two separate services, custom GATT and HID over GATT.

But that means that you'd have to set the key division in the BT device itself, which is not convenient.

So hotkeys go to the Service which runs Intents to start Google Maps (or whatever).

Vol/Brt/Sleep still go to the same Service but they go out injected into /dev/input
[Mechanical keyboards] krbjmpr:
I haven't played with BT GAtt since my days of using MOT Droid2 Global, Android 2.3 I think. If memory serves, was a tremendous pita just to receive a serial data stream. Mapped to a port, which then opened with a terminal emu, and let data scroll by. Engineer or Tech was then able to step out for smoke, food, whatever. If anything started going wrong, kill switch (made with 2 RS walkie Talkies and DTMF encoder/decoder) stopped winch, dropped power supply into CV with limits, and started archive of all the "oh crap!" data.

While it worked, it was wholly not to be propagated "cookie cutter" style. Could not duplicate to other loggers (downhole energy exploration variety). Other method was devised.

For this project, it needs to be easily reproducible and understood. Once core is completed, hope to post build from start to finish on YT and XDA. While XDA folks could figure out obstacles, general populace will not.

Also trying to avoid use of root, hence desire for keyboard mod or arcade controller interface. The latter should be able to use accessibility. If not, then key map will be required, which is not a bad thing as long as root is not mandatory (or Shizuko).

I guess I am just chomping at the bit. Ordered the arcade controller, but I can't stop thinking through how it *may or may not" interact with Android.
[Mechanical keyboards] Renate:
I hate (unstructured) serial for communication. BT RFComm is the lowest in the food chain.

There is always the problem of the message getting broken into pieces and the last piece lagging.

Something structured like MODBUS isn't bad, and it has CRC too.

But for short things GATT or HID gives you a good structure.

Don't you have any USB game controllers kicking around to try it out?
[Mechanical keyboards] krbjmpr:
Game Controllers...

No, I don't. Thought I still had Xbox gold controller, but guess son took with him.

I take that back. I do have a PS Dual Shock. Would that work? Supposedly needed a 3rd party App to work,, never could. That was on

LG v20 Android 8.

Now if was an old 8bit NES, I have that covered. IN SPADES. Working, non-working, and fail-at-boss-time varieties.

Which reminds me. Need to change backup battery in Zelda cartridge,

Now am at work, might have to look sick so I can go home and play ;)
[Mechanical keyboards] espionage724:
What about an Arduino that registers as USB HID with buttons mapped and wired up? I think you could get it to register as a keyboard or game controller, and buttons can map to anything like keyboard letter L, media buttons, or gamepad buttons.

I made a 6 button 2 rotary dial game controller a while back for Sound Voltex and used an Arduino Leonardo R3 with some random gamepad code that worked great. I think I had to use Leonardo R3 for the rotary dials and voltage or something, but there's smaller Arduinos that should be cheaper and be fine for just buttons.
[Mechanical keyboards] krbjmpr:
Was thinking about Arduino last night. Started writing code for my Uno R3, and realized that I may be introducing an unnecessary step / complexity.

There is next to no granular tech info for 1303 game / arcade controllers. Very well may be going different route.
[Mechanical keyboards] krbjmpr:
So, the arcade encoders identify as / recognized as HID / Game Controller. Should have zero problems adding to Android.

And as a game controller, it should not step on or ghost any other keyboards either.

Time will tell, order arrives in few days.
[Mechanical keyboards] Renate:
Definitely. The ATMega32u4 (in the Leonardo) is almost optimal for this task.

You can find it in smaller boards like the Teensy 2.0

The one thing you have to watch out for is that it does not send the letter 'Q'.

The device will be interpreted as alphanumeric and will prevent the on-screen keyboard from popping up.

You can override this and have the on-screen keyboard pop up all the time, but you lose flexibility.
[Mechanical keyboards] krbjmpr:
Was able to play with tablet a bit today. Used Key Mapper from FDroid, and remapped the up / down vol buttons to G Maps and Spotify.

Looks like part of my delay is that my "BT006" 5 button USC-C rechargeable media pad is just a plain piece of ... you know. Supposed to be able to connect wired as well, and tablet promptly responded No Way - @&#$ You and crashed very hard. Not often I see hardware not responding error followed by kernel panic messages.

So, a big part of my delay is the BT006 is just lazy. It must be using a deep sleep routine to save battery, despite living on a charger.

Maps and Spotify are responding to mapped keys, eventually. Will be 1 less app I can remove that creates windowed windows. App is Popup Factory2, shortcuts it creates are dependent on app running in background, which Samsung does not like.
[Mechanical keyboards] krbjmpr:
Hmm, an oversight has occurred.

Tablet charges via USB-C (USB2 functionality I think).

If I am to use an external keyboard, then gonna have to find a way to get data in and charge.

Guinea Pig 1 will be used now, same tablet, just wifi / no lte. That kernel panic scared me pretty bad, would have made me listen to the RADIO and use a, dare I say, MAP for my return trip.

First attempt will to just hang a 5v 3A power supply off USB output from arcade encoder, see how tablet responds. If charges, great, saves from having to buy a hub that sends power upstream.

Forgot to mention in prev post. Android Accessibility Switch utility (in Android 7.1) does not look at BT inputs. Assuming will have to be USB.
[Mechanical keyboards] Renate:
I'm confused. What is the target of this remote? Is it mobile or living room?

I've never used KeyMapper. I don't like per-app hacks. I keep my keys generic and have all my apps respond to any sane key presses.

This is another project of mine. I converted (with full PCB replacement) an iRig BlueBoard using custom GATT to my own YellowBoard using HID over GATT.
[Mechanical keyboards] krbjmpr:
Target is a Samsung Tab Active2 tablet, varying environment, so lets call it mobile.

Key Mapper gave ability to map vol up/down to Maps and Spotify apps. Would have preferred using accessibility, but switch utility won't accept bluetooth. Just existing buttons, and attached USB.

Using a custom GAtt would introduce another level of complexity, trying to keep it as KISS as I can so can be easier to replicate.

Current iteration is mobile media center in a vehicle. Once basics are overcome, will be used as information / control center for RV to monitor various systems (water, waste, generator, batteries, inverter, etc) and effect changes when needed. Eventually hope to reach point that it is able to monitor over RV-CAN network, detect problems, interface with existing manufacturer API, and schedule service appt with parts already shipped.

Small steps first. Get basics down. Then build on previous. Already have several letters of interest.

Final solution will be a relatively Open Source alternative to other RV automation solutions. Though sensors and media bridges exist, the monitoring and presentation methods currently used are intended for particular application. I am trying to give a universal option that can be implemented by others on whatever hardware (for ui) is available.
[Mechanical keyboards] Renate:
Oh... RV systems? I wouldn't know anything about that. :p

Hey, it was a bit cloudy yesterday.
[Mechanical keyboards] krbjmpr:
Reyann / EasyGet Game Controller

Amazon ASIN B0817T2SZX (2-pack)

Current Draw @ 5.26vdc = .03A / .18w

QGeem Smart USB C Hub, (3) USB3, 1 PD, CF, TF, SD, uSD, USB-C Male

Amazon ASIN B07QXMNF1X

Ideally needs to be connected to a 100W PD supply, but will not use that much.

USB header extension cable

Amazon ASIN B06Y663F3S

1M long, only will be using male end

2 x 5 wire cables, 10 pins on male / female connectors.

*Did not work!

Matrix Switch Panel, 1x4

Amazon ASIN B076WS74VN

5pin connector, 1 in, 4 out.

Upon receipt, inspected both devices, there are signs of it being reworked in the past. The switch inputs also look like there was another (3pin) connector originally installed, then removed and a 2pin put into its place.

See pictures of solder joints, and over all. Otherwise, board seems to function as intended.

Power draw is less than a quarter watt at .18 (.03Amps) at 5.26vdc. It does tend to fluctuate between .03A (.18w) and .04A (.20w), spending 99% of the time at .03A. These measurements were obtained from a "USB Digital Tester" model # J7-C.

Not able to feed 5vdc through LED ports, doesn't work. The grounds are apparently switched, and what I was measuring (5v, ground, low resistance)

What has worked is using a USB Data / Charging Hub. The QGeem is working, though charging slowly as it was intended to work with Power Delivery supply.

A USB Header extension cable was separated from its female end, wires stripped, and connected to the 2pin connectors that came with the game controller. As it is just digital (per se) signal on switch input, I suspect this cable can be quite long, particularly if decoupled with .1uF caps or similar at the game controller.

The row of 12 white connectors on controller are your switch inputs. +5v bus on pins by edge of PCB.

The 3 red connectors are intended for LED lights, and if key is at bottom, +5v is on the right.

The 8 white connectors are analog, will have +5v bus on side interior to pcb, or key at bottom.

These are, from end by 2 red connectors, Mode, Clear (CLR), Turbo, Auto, Analog => Up, Down, Right, Left.

I am using a 1x4 membrane switch panel to test with. Outputs are illogical. Holding the panel with connector at top, and looking at blue squares, common terminal is left most on connector. Switch order, left to right, are 2-1-4-3. On my serial extension, common (+5v) is on Red, 2 White, 1 Green, 4 Black, 3 Yellow. Just to help keep things straight in my mind, common (+5v) is introduced on same connector as Sw2, White.

Connecting the switchpad to the game controller yielded only 1 functional switch. Checked continuity, and is present but more than 20ohms. Removed the USB extension cable, and used M-F header extensions, 12 inches long, and have all 4 switches usable. The game controller was either being affected by noise. Or, most likely, voltage drop due to bad joints temp connecting 24awg to 28awg.
[Mechanical keyboards] Renate:
Oh, I could have told you that that 5 pin/4 switch panel had a wacky pinout.

I've never seen a blank one, most had 1-4, some had arrows.

https://www.amazon.com/Matrix-Membrane-Control-Keyboard-Arduino/dp/B076WS74VN/

The controller really uses switching +5V into the input?

Usually, switch inputs are grounding an input with a pullup.

If you were using a shielded extension then the shield would want to be +5V (which would be unusual).

You should check the current that a switch carries.

If it's less than 1 mA then that's really not so great when the wiring is over a few inches long.

If there are only dynamic pullups (inside the CPU glob) that's really not enough for real world.

20 ohms is not bad, those switches are just little carbon pads anyway.