yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Realme GT 2] wizard8400:
To adjust the volumes (mic sensitivity) you can edit mixer_paths.xml from the zip file. Search "handset-stereo-dmic-switch" and modify the marked values from below. Reinstall the module and reboot.

or

The working xml files are in /odm/etc those from system/vendor are not used by android anymore. You can edit them directly, after installing the Magisk module.

If you like to try the xml files from a custom rom (GT2 specific) you can replace mixer_paths.xml and audio_platform_info.xml located in /data/adb/modules/GT2RecQualityMod/odm-files/ and restart. files from odm-files are linked (mirrored) with those from /odm/etc

<!-- Lucian: here is the configuration set for camera apps. -->

<path name="handset-stereo-dmic-switch">

<!-- Lucian: added some options to play with volumes -->

<ctl name="TX_DEC1 Volume" value="84" />

<ctl name="TX_DEC2 Volume" value="84" />

...

...

...

<!-- Lucian: this also affect the volumes -->

<ctl name="ADC1 Volume" value="18" />

<ctl name="ADC4 Volume" va lue="18" />

</path>
[Realme GT 2] smashda:
Will do, i have tried the PixelOS ones, to save some time - the result is pretty much the same, louder with introduction of noise.

/here:
[Realme GT 2] wizard8400:
Can you attach those from PixelOS? I'll like to take a look
[Realme GT 2] wizard8400:
New release: GT2RecQualityMod1.1.zip

based on tuning the parameters of

/odm/etc/lvimfs_params/LVIMFS_Parameter_ID4_MIC_Cam.txt

- added and configured wind noise suppression / canceling

There are a lot of options in there, but not documented anywhere. I think the files are generated by "Qualcomm audio calibration tool" that requires license...

Qualcomm did something amazing with lvimfs_params, that allows the developer to tune every aspect of audio recording but Realme developers didn't care to do something good with this technology

If someone would like to contribute to the improvement of the audio quality, please give it a try! If we could remove the static noise it will be awesome, I think modifying the EQ to lower the static noise frequencies will help.

Regarding lvimfs_params, what I've learned so far:

lines containing "Operating Mode"

enables/disables that feature, like

0 // LVAC_LVAC_InputEq_OperatingMode disables the input equalizer, 1 enables it;

the following lines containing _InputEq_ are parameters like gain, band, frequency etc. that changes the aspects of recording.

There is no documentation, is just trials.

For changes to apply a reboot is required, maybe restarting service will be faster, but I don't know which one...

Have fun!
[Realme GT 2] b0nb0n3v:
Have a much better sound obviously! I see one user did bitrate up mod, could you merge your mode plus 320kbps modification. Thank you!

Link
[Realme GT 2] wizard8400:
It is on my list, it won't improve much of the quality still. Now I'm more preoccupied on reducing the static noise. It will be included in the next release.
[Realme GT 2] wizard8400:
New release:

GT2RecQualityMod1.2.zip

- Updated recording profiles used by the Recorder app with improved loudness and clarity

- The rest is the same as in v1.1

Could not find a way to change the audio bitrate, if someone knows what file is responsible please help, I've tested all media_profiles(_V1_0).xml that I've found and none of them worked...
[Realme GT 2] smashda:
I played around with trying to get the Bitrate up but just managed to destroy Video Recording, so just as a pointer in my case only changing the Bitrates in the various recording <EncoderProfiles> in "media_profiles.xml" did not work.
[Realme GT 2] b0nb0n3v:
I want to report some strange behavior. I face the problem with this mod on some applications. First, I'm on RUI C12 EU, with stock camera, I recorded three videos in a row and all of them have broken audio, the issue is feel like microphone have gain boost +30db sound was capped and distorted. The second app is element(chat/voice) when i try to record voice face again same problem. I will attach some samples to understand better.

When I disable the mod the issue still presents, only when remove the mod audio is stock/"fine".
[Realme GT 2] wizard8400:
@b0nb0n3v Something is wrong, but I don't know what... Do you have other magisk modules installed that could change mixer_paths.xml or lvimfs_params? Maybe they are conflicting.

I've attached a sample of how it sounds on my device. Stock camera, mod v1.2:
[Realme GT 2] b0nb0n3v:
I have andreno gpu drivers and systemless host in the past i tried mixer_paths.xml for 320kbps mod but with no difference I decide to remove it. Could this mod couse this bug, it's removed long time ago? The problem is always when the sound/speech is lound on quiet place or low sound recording is fine. Tia
[Realme GT 2] smashda:
Test if my mixer_paths backup a in the top of the thread makes a difference, if you don't have one yourself. Maybe the change stayed?
[Realme GT 2] b0nb0n3v:
Thank you I check the files and there are stock, my be I'm the private case with this "bug"...
[Realme GT 2] Niko_66:
Hi, does this still word on android 14? And sorry for the off topic question, but how did you manage to unlock the boatloader of the global version of the gt2? Thanks a lot
[Realme GT 2] wizard8400:
Yes, still working on Android 14. Bootloader unlocking worked for a while, using some tools, can't remember now, some python script... Realme patched their servers very fast and never worked again since then.
[Samsung Galaxy A22 4G] Monir5119:
Hello all, I went install any GSI ROM on my Samsung Galaxy A22 device model SM-A22F.
[Samsung Galaxy A22 4G] V0latyle:
You can try this guide.
[Advantage X7500, MDA Ameo Upgrading] Abu Shahad:
Whenever i connect it to my desktop both of them hangs desktop and Athena

i tried many roms also down graded to 1.2 but still same problem

i changed the cable, i tried it in another desktop, laptop but i have the same problem

hard reset i did in all the roms no use the moment i connect it hangs and when i disconnect it becom normal

i also formated the micro drive and i removed storage card

any one can help me

regards
[Advantage X7500, MDA Ameo Upgrading] tootallk2000:
Just a simple suggestion but try cleaning out the temporary files etc. stored on the Athena also delete the partnership with the pc, uninstall activesync, reboot the PC then reinstall activesyn then reconnect the Athena. Try to sync the bare minimum first (calander, task, and favorites). I had to do a hard reset before I could get my email to sync my emails also.
[Advantage X7500, MDA Ameo Upgrading] Abu Shahad:
Thanks

i Did all this but still same problem

regards
[Advantage X7500, MDA Ameo Upgrading] sergiopi:
It seems a PC problem... have you tried another PC? Are you using VISTA or XP?
[Advantage X7500, MDA Ameo Upgrading] techntrek:
He did mention that he tried several computers: "i tried it in another desktop, laptop but i have the same problem".

So the common denominator is the Athena, but not the OS. Starting to sound like a hardware problem. Did this start after you dropped it, or left it in a hot car?
[Motorola Moto G100 / Edge S] Beetle84:
BlissRoms comes with a wide selection of customization options from around the Android community as well as unique options developed by our team. With so many options available, you’ll find it hard not to enjoy the Blissful experience.

Our focus is to bring the Open Source community a quality OS that can run on all your devices as a daily driver, syncing your apps + settings + customization's across all platforms you run Bliss on.

Download

​

Clean Flash (If coming from other Rom's/Stock)

-Prerequisites for Flashing bliss

--Steps--

(1) Flash bliss recovery.

fastboot flash boot recovery.img

(2) Boot into recovery.

(3) Enter "apply update from ADB"

(4) Flash copyparts.zip

adb sideload copyparts.zip

(5) Flash the ROM

adb sideload filename.zip

(6) Format data from recovery

(7) Reboot to system

Wait for Bliss logo to show up....

OPTIONAL

If you want to have root access, flash the supplied KSUboot.img, type 'fastboot flash boot KSUboot.img' after flashing the rom, then install the manager app.

If you want to flash the boot logo, type 'fastboot flash logo logo.bin'

#StayBlissful

Create Bug Report on our Issues Tracker

MAGISK WILL CAUSE THE SYSTEM TO BOOTLOOP, use the supplied KSUboot.img if you need root

BlissRoms Github

BlissRoms Gerrit

Kernel Source

| Website | Blog |

| Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | Telegram Group |

If someone wants to donate, please do so via this PayPal link

Thank you for using BlissRoms! And as always: #StayBlissful​
[Motorola Moto G100 / Edge S] noahhhh:
VoLTE function works fine. That's great!
[Motorola Moto G100 / Edge S] noahhhh:
And you miss the step to boot the recovery.

https://lineageos.tetaneutral.net/full/nio/20230520/vbmeta.img

fastboot --disable-verity --disable-verification flash vbmeta vbmeta.img
[Motorola Moto G100 / Edge S] soprano77:
Where does this step go?

Thanks
[Motorola Moto G100 / Edge S] noahhhh:
Bypass AVB2.0. Bootloader will block unverified boot.img.

Android Verified Boot | Android Open Source Project

source.android.com
[Samsung Galaxy S22] sosaidhaq:
Hi, I recently purchased a 256 GB S22 (US-Variant & Factory Unlocked) but getting message that the device is disabled when connected it with the wifi.

What could be the reason?

View attachment 5914239
[Samsung Galaxy S22] V0latyle:
Looks pretty obvious to me. The IMEI has been blacklisted. You probably bought it from a disreputable seller who either stole the device or bought it from someone who had.

This is why you NEVER buy phones on eBay or Facebook Marketplace. Always buy from Swappa. Even Amazon sellers can be suspect.

I would say you should seek a return and refund with the seller, but I am guessing that they most likely knew it was blacklisted, so you're probably SOL. You can try calling the number on the screen, but if the device was indeed reported stolen and/or has a lien on it, there's nothing they can do.
[Samsung Galaxy S22] k3lcior:
It literally tells you the reason.
[FYT Android Head Units] surfer63:
Hi,

This is a complete rewrite of post #1 as I don't want others to do the stupid things I have done.

When you connect a a reverse camera to your uis7862 or uis8581a unit and you have a CANbus, you simply use the connections as displayed below in the image in post #2 => + wire to the CAM 12V and the RCA plug to the yellow CAM VIN.

Next to that: Have a good look at the last image of post #19 of @Matt Devo where he explains very clearly how it should be done.

And finally: look at post #25 to see what my stupid mistake was.
[FYT Android Head Units] marjanoos:
If you have canbus then you should connect this harness to your unit and marked wire is power wire. I'm not sure if you are talking about this.

Do your unit goes into reverse mode (screen with lines and parking sensor) but without image from camera or doesn't go into this screen at all?

View attachment 5914295
[FYT Android Head Units] surfer63:
I have that harness indeed, and I forgot to mention that I have also connected my +-wire to that 12V CAM wire.

That doesn't work either.

When I set my car in reverse and switch on the parking lines, they are displayed. If I turn my steering wheel they even nicely curve further or less. I simply do not have an image.

Anyway: I just saw a video where the guy says that you should not connect GND in the back to the chassis, but leave it disconnected. I didn't try that yet, but I will try that in a few hours as well.
[FYT Android Head Units] surfer63:
I just tested it. When I put the car in reverse, there is no 12V on the CAM 12V wire no. 2 in the picture. There is never 12V on that wire.

However, there is ~13V on the trigger wire when setting the car in reverse.

Connecting the GND wire to GND or not, doesn't make a difference either. I also checked the cables. I get low resistance over the connection, which seems (to me) that the cables are correct.
[FYT Android Head Units] marjanoos:
I have cvbs camera and I have GND connected to the chasis and it works. Also when I had MTCD device before I had GND just isolated and it also worked.
[FYT Android Head Units] surfer63:
I am getting a little desperate. I almost get the idea that the camera itself is not working.
[FYT Android Head Units] marjanoos:
There are settings regarding powering the back camera. I don’t remember where exactly right now.

If that won’t work then your canbox doesn’t support reverse camera (very strange though) or you have wrong canbox settings.
[FYT Android Head Units] marjanoos:
Well you could try to deliver 12v from another source to check that. For example from fuse box etc or reverse light.
[FYT Android Head Units] surfer63:
Yes, but the trigger wire does deliver 12V.
[FYT Android Head Units] surfer63:
Do you mean "Settings -> Factory -> Reverse power supply"?

That is to change ACC/Cont in case your car harness/CANbus is wired incorrectly (or the unit, whichever you blame for it).

But to make sure, I just tested it.

Still no 12V on that 12V CAM wire. Not normally, not in reverse, not after rebooting and testing again.
[FYT Android Head Units] marjanoos:
I’m not an electrician but if that’s digital signal then it may not be a reliable source of power.

Yes I meant this setting. It’s kind of strange that you don’t have 12v on that wire.

You could also try to use multimeter to assure if cable supplied with camera isn’t damaged.
[FYT Android Head Units] surfer63:
I said it was a "digital" signal as I meant that it is 0V or 12V, so it is behaving "binary".

However, there are 3 videos on Youtube who do exactly as I described in post #1 using that trigger wire, and they do have a working camera.

Using that backlight power supply is when you don't have a CANbus. Also Joying explains that in one of their videos to use (what they call) the "Back" wire on the unit, and not the back light power supply. Edit: But that might also be the same CAM 12V wire that you mention.

And liked quoting myself above: I already checked the cable. I will get a transformer and simply put 12V on the cable and see what it does. Instead of relying on the head unit.
[FYT Android Head Units] louforgiveno:
I'll just add that i had similar experience and for my issue it came down to my failed attempt to use those wire splicing attachments........well after pulling my hair out i checked and found out they weren't making the electrical connection.......scraped those and soldered the wire contacts instead...... that was the fix for me.

P.s (not using canbus, but reverse light power and ground)
[FYT Android Head Units] marjanoos:
If you solder cables in your car you have to make sure you sealed the connection properly. I used once standard isolating sleeve (without any sealing glue) and the connection rotten because of the moisture.
[FYT Android Head Units] surfer63:
That is one of the reasons I waited so long for buying a camera. My car is a "liftback" model where the camera is in the trunk lid. The tail lights, incl. the reverse light, is in the body of the car. I would have needed another 3 meters of cable only to connect the camera power to the back light power, or split it somewhere in the body in the big cable bundle , which would also require about 2 meters of extra cable and something I really did not want to do.

As I also miss a lot of "tech talk", I only recently learned that I do not need the backlight power at all, but can use the 12V from the unit.

However, so far not working.

I did check with my multimeter and do measure 12V on the spliced/connected wires. I do have 12V and correct cables (measured the resistance).
[FYT Android Head Units] louforgiveno:
Thanks!

Reminded me i need to hit those points with liquid electrical tape !
[FYT Android Head Units] j0hn83:
Your camera is connected to CAM VIN (Shown in reply #2 as image 4)?

Have you tried cutting the white cable loop on your camera that switches between ahd/cvbs?

I have an identical unit to you and my oem camera connected and it "just works" (with both ahd setting enabled and disabled).
[FYT Android Head Units] surfer63:
1. Yes, it is connected to the CAM VIN, although on my cable it says correctly CAM IN.

2. Yes, I did cut the white loop wire (and the green loop wire), and temporarily reconnected the white loop wire (and green loop wire) again to test. But with or without cut white loop wire: no image.

3. You lucky guy :)
[FYT Android Head Units] Matt Devo:
if your canbus box is correctly decoding the reverse msg and signaling the HU to switch to the reverse camera input, then the canbus part is working properly, and the issue is camera power.

On the M500, the HU provides +12v on pin F7 when switching to the reverse camera input via CAN trigger. You should *NOT* connect the camera power directly to the CAN reverse trigger (pin G5 on the main plug). F7 connects to the power lead on the RCA wire. The other end of the power lead connects to the red camera + wire. The black/ground wire does not need to be connected; these cameras use the same ground for the video shield so the RCA plug is providing ground already.

CAM +12v is red wire here:

How I wire up the units I sell:
[FYT Android Head Units] surfer63:
Thanks for your extensive answer (and as soon as I have a working situation I will make photos like that as well. Very helpful)

The 3rd image with the plug is showing the CAM IN RCA plug (the black wire) and the red CAM 12V wire.

The problem in my case is that that red CAM 12V wire never gets 12V, whereas the the trigger wire (G5 in your first image) does get 12V when I put my gear in reverse..

How do I get 12V on that red 12V wire?

Like I asked in post #10: "Do you mean "Settings -> Factory -> Reverse power supply"?"

Do I need to set that to ON?

I tried that but still no 12V. Do I need to do something else? I rebooted the unit but I did not give it a reset (RST).
[FYT Android Head Units] Matt Devo:
I've not seen that 'reverse power supply' setting actually do anything, every unit I've wired up in the past ~2 years has always put +12v on F7 when G5 is triggered by the can box. Recent software updates have added a 'local radar' setting which seems to enable/disable switching to the reverse camera input. if you're not running the latest Mekede software + Mario's kernel, I'd do a fresh install of those and see where you stand
[FYT Android Head Units] mastrv:
Even if you use a canbus decoder you should still be able to set up a rear camera the way one would set it up if there was no canbus box.

Power needs to be provided when the car is in reverse and the head unit needs to know when the car is in reverse. That's all you should need to make rear camera work.

If your car didnt originally have a camera or your harness isnt wired properly to use existing car wiring then power is usually taken from rear backup lights. This provides both power and the indicator that car is in reverse.

The rear camera that comes with the head unit usually comes with a long cable that goes from rear to front. These also have an embedded wire, red I believe, where you can connect to rear backup light to get 12v power. At the other end, at the HU, it would then connect to rear detection trigger so that when car is put in reverse HU knows to switch to back up camera view. At the same time, since rear backup lights are connected to camera and provide 12v, camera turns on. Camera view should now show on HU.

As is said, even though some of this is going through canbus, you should still be able to connect as if there was no canbus.

Hopefully this is correct and I have described it well.

PS you shouldn't connect rear camera to an always on power source. I believe I read that it would cause premature failure of camera or something related to the camera.
[FYT Android Head Units] surfer63:
I do run the latest kernel from Mario (without using anything further of it). I just downloaded the latest "7862-A12-wbt-9-10.zip" from Mekede, which is actually incorrect. It is only a zip containing the apps. Further nothing. So I removed the 360res parts (don't have that) and recreated an AllAppUpdate.bin and flashed it.

When I put my gear in reverse there is 12V on the trigger wire, but never on the red CAM 12V wire.

I also checked the complete wiring of the camera again. It is correct.

Any idea how I can check the correct functioning of the camera itself?

Thanks for your reply, but that was what I explained in post #15: I have a liftback with the camera in the trunk lid and the tail lights in the body of the car. That requires another 3 meters of wire to connect to that tail light (See image below), or connect it directly to the license plate lighting, which means it is "on" constantly as long as the license plate lighting is "on". That's why I only now purchased a reverse camera now that I have learned that I can simply use the wires coming out of the harness.

Not until now however.

So also here: How can I check whther the camera itself is functioning correctly?
[FYT Android Head Units] surfer63:
I just did what I should have done 2 days ago: I took my "old" sc9853i out of the cupboard and package, connected it to a 12V power supply and connected everything like I did on my uis7862.

Then I put 12V on the plus wire to simulate reverse gear, and voila: it worked. I had a nice camera image.

Something seems wrong with my uis7862 unit.

Edit: Can it be that that specific plug is not connected on the inside? Or is anything else the problem? (I know: hard to say without seeing the unit).
[FYT Android Head Units] surfer63:
Utter and total stupidity was the issue in this case.

As I did not have a reverse camera I had not connected the plug either.

So 3 days ago (or so), I pushed in the plug.

However, I pushed it in the socket indicated with 1.

Now I suddenly realised that and I pushed the plug into the socket with nr. 2.

And it all works automatically.

I really apologize to all for having wasted your precious time.

I am really, really ashamed that I made such a stupid mistake.

I did a complete rewrite of post #1 to prevent others from doing my stupid mistake.
[FYT Android Head Units] j0hn83:
I'm glad for you that your unit is working correctly as a hardware fault is always the worst case in the back of your mind.

We all make silly mistakes sometimes but there are many orientations of these sockets between units so it's not the worst mistake though I'm surprised it seated correctly in the socket.

Mekede M500s listing label your incorrect port 1 as "useless" which is.... not the most helpful description.

I think that may be the 360 camera port.

It's interesting to see the 8 pin canbus port also labelled as Digital TV / Canbus in Matts image. Does this work?
[FYT Android Head Units] marjanoos:
The only one who doesn’t make mistakes is the one who does nothing at all.
[XPERIA X1 General] Amuroboy:
Does anyone of you guys have any problem sending files like vid/mp3 tru mobile messenger?
[OnePlus Nord 2 5G] rohit4989:
Its 2023 and the phone was launched in 2021 and still to this date there is no complete unbrick for the oneplus nord 2 ( imei / fingerprint ) . Even after flashing the exact files from another backup or any other backup the phone still cannot be recovered completely and if the imei was deleted then it still cannot be fixed.

Coming to another phone the poco f3 gt which is powered by the same 1200 chipset. This phone can be completely recovered to the stock condition after flashing the stock files with the help of mi flash tool. But in oneplus nord 2's case the phone cannot be recovered completely because according to the majority of the people the phones persist partition is unique and nvram and nvdata is also unique.

If anyone's an honest service engineer here or someone with the 1200s motherboard knowledge, then would you care to explain if the 1200s motherboard which is used in the oneplus nord 2 is diffrent as compared to the xiaomi poco f3 gt or its the same motherboard ?

Is oneplus using a specialized motherboard Or theres a problem with the flashing tool not meeting the expectations ? Because the miflashtool can do a complete unbrick of hardbricked device

Any answers from an experienced or knowledgeable service engineer or anyone with knowledge of smartphone motherboards will be appreciated.