yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Touch Pro CDMA] 510jungleboy:
Yes, you heard me right, we shall not be ashame or be discourage by other phones who has 8GB or 16GB storage, cause now, I show the world that we, the TOUCH PRO owner, can rejoice for joy and have surpass and become superior to the storage showdown. I represent you and the WORLD FIRST 32GB CLASS 4 Cell phone dubbed, the SPRINT PCS TOUCH PRO.
[Touch Pro CDMA] goalcam:
uhhh... lol. what the hell did you do to that poor thing?
[Touch Pro CDMA] cjmedina:
thats ugly but pretty sweet, talk about hot swapping. how did you do it?
[Touch Pro CDMA] dr g:
Good old fashioned modding there ;)
[Touch Pro CDMA] nunyabiziz:
I guess im the only one that sweat:rolleyes:, what happens then?
[Touch Pro CDMA] iceman4357:
cool. Nice work, now take the original plastic cover and re-mold it so the chip is inside the plastic cover.
[Touch Pro CDMA] blackangst:
lol Frankenstein Touch!
[Touch Pro CDMA] tvos:
i throw ya some peanuts...

tvos
[Touch Pro CDMA] gman4471:
I bet an extended battery cover could keep it all together (when sprint releases it at least)
[Touch Pro CDMA] Chuck_Norris:
How's the read write speed? Is it slowed down at all?
[Touch Pro CDMA] 510jungleboy:
What software can i use to test that?
[Touch Pro CDMA] gman4471:
Any Pics of what it looks like inside?
[Touch Pro CDMA] svargas05:
yea...thats kool n all, but i doubt he'll answer any of your questions....

considering that he postd the EXACT same topic in the www.ppcgeeks.com forum...

everybody there remains stumped as well....
[Touch Pro CDMA] stevopativo:
Interesting but I think I'll wait for the 32gb MicroSD card to come out within the next couple months!:D:p
[Touch Pro CDMA] landlocked:
Well done!

You've managed to even do it without duct tape! :)
[Touch Pro CDMA] chronster:
Now try putting a bigger screen on it, that should be funny looking
[Touch Pro CDMA] sonus:
I don't know what planet you're living on, but it took manufacturers nearly a year from the time they started rolling out 8GB microSDs to start producing 16GB microSDs. So more than likely, you will start seeing 32GB microSDs at the end of 2009 and as late as 2010 for bigger retail chains (like BestBuy).

Not to mention the fact that because of this ridiculously long interim period, I've actually had just about every capacity of card, 16MB (CF), 32MB (CF), 256MB (CF), 1GB (SD), 2GB (miniSD), 4GB (miniSD), 8GB (microSD), and soon the 16GB (microSD), because I can't bear waiting for the 32GB.
[Touch Pro CDMA] gman4471:
So assuming something like this was used:

http://aptolink.com/product_info.php?products_id=41&osCsid=44e3d010e4effdff2f210c8dfa98d1f1

Wouldent there still be something sticking out of the device on the other side?

I guess I always though that if something like this was that easy to do, third pary manufactures would be offering up adapters / back plates
[Touch Pro CDMA] ou2mame:
http://asukal.net/blog/?p=284

this looks like something that could have been used... just take it out of the casing.. i'd be interested in this if there was an extended battery cover.
[Touch Pro CDMA] ldrn:
I don't know about easy, but Craves1 over at Internet Tablet Talk designed a SD->MiniSD adapter / back plate combo for the ITT and had them made, so I am thinking it is probably more of a lack of will or companies thinking there is no market?
[Touch Pro CDMA] ou2mame:
there is most certainly a market though... i know i'd buy one. i have two friends who would also buy them. they're really expensive too. i wouldn't pay 100 bucks for one, but i'd pay like 20.
[Touch Pro CDMA] hpram99:
Sorry in advance for the hijack....

I'm waiting to get my new touch pros (been without one for 2 weeks :eek: ) but have already looked into making a plug-n-play design that would be a lot better than the $100 debugging adapters. I've found small-scale hybrid flex pcb fabricators that would work, they require batches of 100 though, and I think the custom routing of the pcb might be pretty expensive.

I need my touch pro to test first, but the design MIGHT MIGHT work without modifying the cover excessively (would require exactly 2mm of space, but I know that's a lot to ask for)

I'll post pics when I have an example next week.

Edit: 3rd time trying to edit my post. I fat fingered it twice. Anywho, got ahold of a Touch Pro, since the SD is so large in all it's dimensions, the 2mm thickness is enough to break the tabs that hold the battery cover on. 1.2mm would work though. I am looking into alternatives, if someone wants to melt their battery cover as suggested previously, let me know how that works :)
[Touch Pro CDMA] ebmorgan:
I'm calling B.S. on this mod.

Come OP...where's the proof? I can cut a whole in a spare cover and take the CF sleeve out of my digital SLR too.
[Touch Pro CDMA] Bill F:
Why would this be BS?

He clearly stuck a full size SD card into the phone using an adapter because the pins and signaling are the same or very very close.

Links were also posted to adapters that accomplish the same thing. (thats what he probably used)
[Touch Pro CDMA] elmerfudpuckered:
Heck I would love to see the link to what he used to pull that off, not everyones guesses:confused:
[Touch Pro CDMA] PGRtoo:
I guess you and I have a distinctly different threshold for shame and discouragement. :rolleyes:

Pete
[Touch Pro CDMA] black_co:
This is how it was done.

Linky: http://www.ameri-rack.com/APA-TFC1m.html
[Touch Pro CDMA] yourboyfrombk:
the fm radio finally works after that lolllll:d
[Touch Pro CDMA] fsjon:
Do you know where I can get that online? Or anywhere??
[Touch Pro CDMA] SOHKis:
the link black_co posted maybe?

http://www.ameri-rack.com/APA-TFC1m.html

or the one gman4471 posted?

http://aptolink.com/product_info.php?products_id=41&osCsid=44e3d010e4effdff2f210c8dfa98d1f1
[Touch Pro CDMA] zikronix:
thats good. make the already spectacular battery life even better
[Introductions] kickusan:
Hello forum,

reading this forum since 2017 but never register on it. Now I am.
[Moto G7 Questions & Answers] foriburn:
Can't boot [no bootable a/b partition] and OEM locked itself help me plz
[Moto G7 Questions & Answers] fede2782:
Try to use Lenovo Motorola Rescue and Smart Assistant. It helped me with mine by flashing right stock image with locked bootloader because i made an error.
[Xiaomi Poco F3 / Xiaomi Mi 11X / Redmi K40] alfx_09:
Hi! i dont know if is my phone that is broken or me, i dont know. When you open the instagram camera, the quality is ok, but when you do a photo, it loses a lot of quality, like if it wad blurry. Can someone help me?
[Xiaomi Poco F3 / Xiaomi Mi 11X / Redmi K40] ApexPrime:
The real reason Snapchat photos taken on Android phones look terrible

Android phones often have similar or better cameras than iPhones. But on Snapchat, it’s not even close. Here's why.

www.businessinsider.com

It says snapchat but it's actually true for instagram and whatsapp as well
[Xiaomi Poco F3 / Xiaomi Mi 11X / Redmi K40] CRNO:
try update Instagram to latest version
[Xiaomi Poco F3 / Xiaomi Mi 11X / Redmi K40] mosha.x:
I don't know exactly why that happens.. maybe it's a compatibility issue.

But the solution to that is: you have to take the pictures with your standard camera app, then upload it to Instagram. This way you will preserve your picture quality. ♥
[Xiaomi Poco F3 / Xiaomi Mi 11X / Redmi K40] 3zozHashim:
idk if its new to you but taking pictures from third party apps (whatsapp, office, facebook etc...) always end up crappier than the camera app
[Xiaomi Poco F3 / Xiaomi Mi 11X / Redmi K40] cmfCyangenModteam:
Its actually because these apps compress image thats why, No worry.
[Google Pixel 7] visioner_vs:
Hello everyone, I recently purchased a pixel 7, I noticed that at maximum volume, sometimes you can hear some kind of crackling from the speakers, similar to a metallic rattling. If you make it quieter, it seems to pass, surprisingly it does not always happen that way. There is music where everything is perfect, and there is one that is almost impossible to listen to, for example YotClub - YKWIM?, from the first seconds there is already a crackling or rattling, this can also be found sometimes on YouTube, in some videos this also happens. Tell me, is this a problem in the phone or a soft one? Once again, this does not happen everywhere.
[Android Head-Units] Anton TNT:
Hello, has anyone got this motherboard?

It is hard to find a replacement, board is CHS-503DSP v2 (ALPSFF5000-8227L chipset), motherboard is working well, aswell as Android, but has no sound coming from it to speakers.

I can't get it to work.

Please reply if anyone has solution how to fix no sound issue.

When unit is in car, Android starts , all apps and radio turns on but when out to speakers I hear only buzzing sound and noise.

Thanks.

(upper board is motherboard with core board attached to it, lower is lcd screen board)

View attachment 5793535
[Android Head-Units] blue_one:
You could try to output sound via usb soundcard to an external amplifier instead of a new mainboard.
[Android Head-Units] Anton TNT:
I would like to fix the motherboard but thanks for suggestion
[Android Head-Units] rigattoni:
What do you expect to get from the forum?

If you want to fix that, you need to have the right tools to measure that like an oscilloscope, and the knowledge to read the board pin-out.

You can solder out the amplifier module and put in the same (or at least a similar with the same pin-out as the one which is installed.

If that helps... no one knows, because even something else can be the reason for this failure.

At least you should test with a single tone, may be 400khz, to measure the in- and output of the amplifier module.

Famous words: Take it to someone who knows how to measure the electronics, like a TV-electronic repair shop, if you find someone who is willing to repair that unit. I fear no one will do that, not even for cash money.

Best tip: Take it and throw it into the bin.
[Android Head-Units] Renate:
It could be a lot of things, including software.

I think that I'd check the obvious things first.

Get the pinout of the amplifier IC. Check power, shutdown signal, mute signal.

See if you can even see any audio on the input pins or whether you can inject any signal with just a probe and your body noise.
[Android Head-Units] Anton TNT:
I've tried all options so far with voltage multimeter. Voltages, rerouting directly on pins on amp (that goes on speakers) etc.

Sound is coming out but only noise , I mean noise like volume is up to max and you can hear buzzing sound, when antenna unpluged from device sound is distorted a starts to crackle.

That are the simptoms.

If anyone can help with their knowledge besides going to service shop thanks, if not it will go in trash bin.

Only damage I can see is one transistor in a middle of board that has burned, but I have soldered it and connected again with board.

It is giving voltage out and working.

Software isn't issue here as 8227L chipset works with variety of updates (installed and proved).
[Android Head-Units] marchnz:
Replace capacitor c122 and resistor r33.

(,just kidding).

Sounds like audio processing/switch is dead Jim, but not as we know it.

Experience and the ability to reverse engineer is the key skill required to resolve this issue.

@rigattoni gives the best advice here. No one has a crystal ball.

Good luck, but it is a very big long shot asking people here to figure this out for you
[Android Head-Units] Renate:
Now wait a minute.

You never mentioned anything about a transistor being fried.

You didn't indicate it in the photo either.

Edit: Also, it's might not be a transistor, it could be a LDO.
[Android Head-Units] Anton TNT:
What is LDO Jim? beam me up Scotty (clarify)
[Android Head-Units] Renate:
(Low DropOut) voltage regulator.

(Low DropOut) voltage regulator.
[Android Head-Units] Anton TNT:
And where is that on board , what shape and figure
[Android Head-Units] Renate:
Why don't you tell me?

You said that a "transistor" burned. Was it a LDO?

Both look the same. Read the numbers off it. Show a good photo of it.
[Android Head-Units] Anton TNT:
Here it is.. but I noticed this burned transistor or what ever it is called later...

It is on central side of motherboard close to output chip TDA (look at first picture of motherboard)

I soldered some wire on other not burned side (after that it gives some voltage out like 1-3 Volts) but same result no sound.

I ordered a same little transistor (three leg) , will try to solder that on place when arrive.

The rest Android and all other stuff works well , JUST NO SOUND coming from device, but funny thing when I attach a USB audio output , Android turns to Headset mode and music plays, but only music no FM tuner / radio app.

Trying also with flashing of memory, to get ROOT, and then to clear cache of device from root directory, but my PC with WIN 10 doesn't recognize device and with all DA COM / ADB drivers installed and step by step video online.
[Android Head-Units] Renate:
Doing arbitrary things in a deterministic universe rarely yields results.

Why do you believe that to be a transistor?

What transistor did you order? And why?

First thing, get some 91% isopropyl alcohol and some cotton swabs (ear cleaners).

Clean up that board so you can see something.

Find the part number of the 20 pin IC there. Get the data sheet.

With the unit off check for continuity between the gold pad on the little photo to any of the pins on that IC.
[Android Head-Units] rigattoni:
On top... To burn this part, there is always a reason why it burned. Only exchange this part may not fix the radio. You need to find the reason and fix that first.

Sorry, but reading your postings in here, I fear that you will not be able to fix that by yourself.
[Android Head-Units] Anton TNT:
There is not much people arround to fix Android head units, so I'm asking help here , please understand me, as I have a little knwledge of android boards, PC yes , Android no !

If you are feeling helpfull help in any way but not in a terms of critisicm.

Thanks.

I will fix that in any way I can. That includes fixing with a help of electronic engineer or someone that knows what to do. As I mentioned only buzzing sound is coming from this board and when transferred thru USB DAC chip sounds go out so problem is some joint or this blown chip / transistor. We will see...

But I agree only on one, It is hard to do anything with no diagrams of this board.
[Android Head-Units] Anton TNT:
I have done that , and cleaned it and then soldered a piece of tungsten soldering wire on gold plates when joints are.

I'm surprised , I tought that you saw upper picture with cleaned spot and soldered wire, but obvously you have not. If you can't see open as attachment and zoom in.
[Android Head-Units] Renate:
As far as I can see you have posted 2 attached photos.

In your original post you have the large photo with motherboard and LCD.

In post #13 you show the burned spot.

If the photo in your first post shows a cleaned burnt spot then you have neglected to mention that in your first post.

Long distance repair is difficult enough without somebody not bothering to relate important information.
[Android Head-Units] Anton TNT:
READ THIS LINE , I HAVE WROTE THIS BEFORE :

"Here it is.. but I noticed this burned transistor or what ever it is called later...

It is on central side of motherboard close to output chip TDA (look at first picture of motherboard)​

I soldered some wire on other not burned side (after that it gives some voltage out like 1-3 Volts) but same result no sound."
[Android Head-Units] Anton TNT:
No matter , let's continue, happy New Year to you all and best wishes...

Yesterday I had a glimpse of success regarding sound and amplifier.

Maybe can anyone explain this...

After installing POWERAMP EQ app from playstore a few seconds of music played on main speakers, I could hear this, but in a sudden it stopped.
[Android Head-Units] Renate:
Ok, my apologies for misundertanding you.

So, why did you post a photo of the place before you cleaned it up.

Why didn't you post a photo after you cleaned it up?

What transistor did you order?

Why did you order that?

What led you to the certainty of the function of that device (not yet proven to be a transistor)?

Why did you have hope that soldering a wire would fix your problem?

What is a "tungsten" wire anyway? I thought that toasters used nichrome wire (nickel/chromium).

Why didn't you bother to identify the part number of the 20 pin IC?

Why didn't you bother to perform the continuity checks that I requested?

Why didn't you post a link to the datasheet for the 20 pin IC?

That's about all the questions I have for now.

Happy New Year!
[Android Head-Units] Anton TNT:
Simple answer : I'm not a skilled electrician/technician , I am a self-taught computer scientist, I learn step by step...

I google for answears just like any other people do and try to fix.

I ordered SOT23 XC6206P302MR 3V current 140MA positive voltage regulator chip 65Z5 - if you know what it is, motherboard asks this according to this burned chip.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328....order_list.order_list_main.10.21ef1802ew7VuO

20 pin IC ? you mean connector or what (use simple laic language)

wire for soldering is chromium / tungsten based (low temp. melting point)

Please can you explain procedure step by step how to identify ... Thanks
[Android Head-Units] Renate:
Well, you could have mentioned that you got a number off it 10 posts ago when I asked.
[Android Head-Units] Anton TNT:
Sorry, my apologies... Will take picture and everthing else when chip arrives. Thanks for helping.
[Android Head-Units] Anton TNT:
So ... Equipment along with voltage regulator is here , I have already soldered it in place, and this little piece was responsible for not hearing anything. It is fixed but... Now when radio is connected back in car I can hear crackling sound with music, and then when hit CLOSE button just hear a loud "pckk" sound. So it is working (will take picture and place here) but how to get rid of this cracking and noising sounds? Any suggestion ?
[Android Head-Units] Renate:
Maybe what blew out the regulator was some component breaking down.

Maybe it's still erratically breaking down.

Put a scope on the output of the regulator.

If you don't have that, put a 1µF cap (plus side to the regulator) connected in series to an earphone connected to ground.

Do you hear crackling or loud noise?
[Android Head-Units] crainc:
I wish you luck and don't let these *mod edit* hats discourage you because regardless if you fix it, you'll likely learn something. They seem to already to know everything and prefer to criticise those that don't. Keep us posted. Cheers.
[Android Head-Units] Anton TNT:
Will try tommorow , now I'm on a job...

Thanks Renate for advice, I think most probably that issue is with one leg of regulator maybe it isn't soldered in place right . Will check tommorow with magnifier ant test with multimeter for output voltages. How many Voltages output must have or what is Volt default output or limit ?
[Android Head-Units] Renate:
It should be 3 V, certainly within 2.9 to 3.1 V.

If it's lower than 2.9 V you may have a problem which could kill this one.
[Android Head-Units] Anton TNT:
Here it goes , measured, but I don 't know if it is fine, probably not... Sound is buzzing and cracking. What to improve?

Is there a way to solder some wore directly on output?
[Android Head-Units] Renate:
Yes, but you didn't say what you got for a measurement.

Did you try that earphone trick that I mentioned?

Also, you have to be more careful with your soldering. It almost looks like a short there.

I'm not that great a solderer either and the parts are tiny enough.

You have to use a smaller tip on your soldering iron. I use a 1/32" (0.8 mm) tip for stuff like that.

You've got to use thin solder too, 0.020" (0.5 mm) is my usual.

Getting rid of excess solder can be pesky too, you risk the neighboring components and/or lifting foil.
[Android Head-Units] Anton TNT:
Video of measurement ... Take a look. Didn't try with earphone, where to solder that wire, on what?
[Android Head-Units] Renate:
First, you're probing the input to the regulator.

You could just have said that it's jumping all around.

The input should *probably* be reading a steady 5 V.

It could be that that is bad or it could be that there is a short at the output of the regulator.

Measure the output of the regulator. Please, no movies.

What is the highest voltage you see there?
[Android Head-Units] Anton TNT:
At image on leg 3 measure is 3V, I measured output on speakers also it says 0.2V.

I think that here is geounding or 0 is rhe problem, when touched casing voltages rise to 3-5V, output on Vout is 0-0.02V
[Android Head-Units] Anton TNT:
I think here is grounding most likely problem.
[Android Head-Units] Renate:
What are you using as ground to measure?

It should be a big hunk of metal on the case/board, not to your power connection.
[Android Head-Units] Anton TNT:
Probe grounding is at casing on metal, red one + is measuring pins of regulator.
[Android Head-Units] Anton TNT:
What do you think Renate is there a way to bypass DSP and connect directly to speakers with wire ? (probably use amplifier external)
[Android Head-Units] Renate:
Maybe your incoming 12 V is flakey.
[Android Head-Units] Anton TNT:
flakey ?
[Android Head-Units] Renate:
Intermittent, uneven level, fluctuating, dropping out, bad connection...

You can also use the earphone test on that.
[Android Head-Units] Anton TNT:
I tried with headphones, nothing, and with external soundcard and headphones attached to it , works that way.

Must find a new board for it , but it is hard to find it at and buy it.

This board is 4 years old and it is not on production anymore.

Will search for similar one on net. Or find someone that has similar device.
[Android Head-Units] Renate:
Did you read what I said? I didn't say anything about plugging headphones in.

Did you read about the capacitor? Do you have one?
[Android Head-Units] Anton TNT:
I'll try to solve it thanks.

What capacitor do you mean , explain ...

My knowledge is somewhat limited in this area.

And please EXPLAIN earphone "TEST", I didn't quite capture the meaning and method of this.
[Android Head-Units] Anton TNT:
I don't have that "CAP" in order to test. Sorry. I will try another aproach tommorow, will let you all know afterwards.
[Android Head-Units] Renate:
If you have some electronic junk you can probably find a capacitor in there that would be good enough.

Maybe 1-10µF. Bigger will give you a big click, smaller will not give you enough volume.
[Android Head-Units] Anton TNT:
Please point to some image on net what kind of cap is that so I would know exctly. I'm not familiar with a range fileld of capacitors.
[Android Head-Units] Renate:
This is an electrolytic capacitor.
[Android Head-Units] Anton TNT:
will try thanks
[XPERIA X1 General] creid:
I have no option in my activesync to backup my X1

Can anyone help please, how can I do a full backup?
[XPERIA X1 General] inuka:
try spb backup or sprite backup.
[XPERIA X1 General] arnisv:
I like spb
[General Questions and Answers] rawracer:
Hi. I wanted to change recovery with the transition from Pixel experience to cr droid and I encountered a problem. Recovery does not want to upload others. Still pixels remain. Odin closes the program and fastboot prompts that the phone is locked. Rom runs on pixel recovery, but how to bite it?
[General Questions and Answers] rawracer:
So I already installed the HVL1/HVL5 stock ROM.

Previously, I only extracted one file from the AP module and flashed it with magisk. Now I know I should put the whole AP file and then flash IT via Odin.

I'll try.

Once I do the correct root, will I install twrp directly from the app?

then with twrp should i flash cr recovery?

What about NFC? I just need a reading option.

Previously on los and PE, this function did not work only on stock rom with blocked bl works correctly.

Do an magisk module can fix that ?
[General Questions and Answers] Darko700:
Hello.

I am trying to install android on a Condeco V2 tablet. Does anyone know how to do this?

Thanks in advance.