yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Device Repair] R7027:
Swinging logic sounds like fun.

Speaking of powering peripherals, maybe you can help me understand why my brand new Seek Thermal Comapct thermal camera doesn't work with my brand new Galaxy S22 phone? They both use USB-C connectors. But the Seek Thermal app doesn't see my camera when I plug it in. It sees is sometimes. It saw it the first time and Android prompted me to decide if I wanted Seek Thermal to auto start each time I plug the device in. I said yes. So now the phone does see something being plugged in, because it auto starts Seek Thermal, but the app complains that camera is not plugged in. If I leave it plugged in, reboot, and then it auto starts again and sees it. If I unplug, plug back in, sometimes it sees it again but most often not. So I have to reboot each time I want to be sure I will be able to use it.

It's something odd going on and I'm not the only one affected by this. Customers of FLIR ONE PRO (not caps scream, it's actually name of the product) have made similar complaints. One FLIR ONE PRO user said that this is due to lack of support for USB OTG on "modern" Android devices. Do you think it's related to OTG? What's the the current status of OTG? Is it deprecated? He suggested using a OTG adapter. Except there are none for USB-C to USB-C. They only exist for connections between USB-A to USB-C or micro-USB (B?) and vice verse. Not between USB-C and USB-C. Because USB-C devices don't need training wheels to enable compatibility, right?
[Device Repair] Renate:
It is!

Wow, you've given me a load.

In most modern SoC (system on chip) you're got a couple of hundred pins or contacts

Connections are at a premium so you want to keep that number down.

But a chip is expensive to design and it might get used for lots of different usages.

Somebody might want a LCD display with a good 20 pins. Somebody might have no need of a display.

So what you have is that any modern SoC has a "Pin Mux".

Usually that means that every single pin can be a GPIO. Some of these pins could be UARTs. Some of them could be I²C.

Let's say that you need a UART. There could be 6 UARTs built into the SoC.

You look at the documentation (hard to find sometimes) for your chip.

"Well, what if I take UART1? I can assign that to pins 25/26 or 90/91 or 124/125. Oh, wait, I'm already using pin 26 to drive the charging LED and 90 is part of my SD card interface and I've got the keyboard connected in the 125 group. Guess I'll use UART2 instead. Of the 4 possibilities for that pins 62/63 are entirely clear."

So the Pin Mux is like a switchboard for connecting functional units inside the chips to pins that connect to the output.

Unfortunately, switchboards are very expensive (in terms of silicon real estate) so we don't make it that you can connect anything to any pin.

But hopefully they give you enough possibilities that you don't get too wedged designing things.

Another job of the Pin Mux (really the Pin Pad configuration) is to set whether a pin is an input/output/both, how hard it drives an output, whether an input has resistors to pull it up or down and for some chips whether the pin works on 1.8V or 3.3V logic levels.

As far as test points go. Most circuit boards have tiny gold dots that allow for connection for testing.

For instance, you want to be able to test if the board will power on without the little button board for the power switch connected.

So they put a little dot that can be probed by a "nail" or "pogo pin", a spring-loaded contact.

You'll probably see a group of three of them around the VolUp/VolDn/Power.

The power button has to wake the device from full off, so it may be wired differently than buttons that only have to work when it's on.

You're telling me that you're measuring 3.7V on a resistor that goes to the power button?

That seems to be the full LiPo voltage. When you press the power button you see no difference in the voltage from either end of the resistor to ground?

If you can, take a good high-res photo of the area right there.

Most modern Androids do OTG just fine (with an OTG adapter).

There can be problems if the peripheral is looking to be supplied with too much current.

You can use a hub on OTG. The "input" goes to the OTG adapter, one of the "outputs" goes to the peripheral.
[Device Repair] Rizzi87:
Thanks. I wasn't aware of this fact so it's a nice way to learn on the fly.

Yeah mate. It's almost similar to a heartbreak ;)

The difference in the temps of the area that gets heated versus the rest of the board is apparently enough to realise that it's not normal. I have found 2 capacitors near the processor that are not giving out any readings in either direction.

The manual mentions some kinda jig that Samsung service tech uses for diagnostics and repairs. Also to measure the frequency of the oscillator, one needs an oscilloscope which I do not have access to currently.

I have been referencing the boardview in the manual and checking the resistors, diodes and capacitors all over the board. The caveat here is I do not know which components are to be tested in forward bias or otherwise (i.e. red probe on ground vs. black probe on ground). Moreover, I'm yet to learn how to measure/test SMD inductors so as to find out any possible shorting of those components.

Yeah, I reckon that's what they are called from the tutorials/guides I have been perusing.

I get what you are saying with 'invisible' capacitor. I realised about some of those being on the board only after zooming in on some macro pics I'd taken of the mobo! :sneaky:

Yes it has power. I see the menu and back keys light up in addition to the service/charging led and vibration. It's just that the display doesn't show s**t.

Believe me, I'm in no rush but as blackhawk advised, it's better to be safe than screwing it up further. I will still continue to complete the testing procedure and give it to a 'specialist' only if I come across something which is beyond my current knowledge (very basic, I might add) of electronics and micro-circuitry.

The manual usually has two sections for parts - Electrical and Main body/Housing and I'm talking about the latter.

The anatomical view shows all the phone parts (body, housings, LCD, battery, covers, etc.) marked up with codes that correspond to the product numbers on a different list. For eg., in the pics below, you can see that the digitizer/touchscreen is marked as 'QME03' and the Parts List allows one to find out the product code for that part. In the manual I have for the G930F, it just shows the anatomy but not the actual parts list itself.

View attachment 5775967

View attachment 5775969
[Device Repair] Renate:
I think this component level troubleshooting may be a bit premature.

If some navigation keys are lighting up, something active is going on.

Have you definitely checked that the USB interface is totally dead?
[Device Repair] Rizzi87:
I'm not referencing any values to measure them yet. I'm simply testing them for continuity using the multimeter. Those 'dead caps I mentioned did not show any readings and associated continuity buzz in either direction. If I'm doing something wrong, kindly advise.

Yeah, I got to know about the mystical jig just a few days back. I haven't bothered much about it yet since I think the probable cause is some component shorting out.

With due respect, I'll not derail your thread further with discussion of my busted Grand Neo (will continue it on my thread)

Will talk about G930F here although it will have to wait.

Btw, were you able to check out the manual for the Parts list?
[Device Repair] R7027:
With power on or power off? That's the catch. How to probe without knowing where ground is on the component? Continuity testing and resistance testing is done with power off. Voltage measurement (it's technically not "testing") and current measurement is done with power on. But you risk shorting the components to ground all by yourself if you put one of the test leads (usually the red or positive) on the wrong pin or pad. So to prevent this, most multimeters will have something called diode mode that can be used. In a diode, current can flow in only one direction, so in case you put the test lead on the wrong pin or pad, the current would not be able to flow back to ground through your multimeter. I believe this is what you call "forward bias", but I'm not familiar with the term.

Continuity is technically a measurement of very low resistance. I'm not sure how low it needs to be, but if we assume the limit is 100 Ohms, then the multimeter would buzz in continuity mode if it measures a resistance of less than 100 Ohms, and if it's 100 Ohms or above, it would not buzz or it might buzz intermittently and display the measured value. This will depend on your multimeter make and model. Many will have a combined continuity and diode mode, all in one setting. I have one of those. It's an old digital multimeter from Velleman. It's not very expensive or accurate, it doesn't even have auto-ranging, but it does the job.

So this is the general idea I believe. As an electrician I would normally only measure voltage and current in electrical installations of a building. I have a Fluke instrument for this where one of the test leads is built into the instrument so you can easily get the reading while holding it, and then the other test lead hangs loose by a wire. So I normally know where ground is, I don't have to stand there and guess. It's easier working on a big scale electrical circuit like in a building and you can see clearly where everything goes, or it's labeled appropriately. I only learned about diode mode when I started working on this phone.

I was going to get back to you as I didn't have access to my other computer. I have checked it now. You're asking for Galaxy S7, right? I don't have the complete manual. I only have some chapters from it.

This is table of contents for the manual:

Safety Precautions

Specification

Product Function

Exploded View and Parts list

MAIN Electrical Parts List

Level 1 Repair

Level 2 Repair

Level 3 Repair

Reference data

I have chapter 2, 5, 7 and 8. You want chapter 4, right? I don't have it. I have looked for it but could not find a complete manual anywhere. Chapter 7 contains the overview picture I mentioned with the different components marked up, like "SIM Socket", "Motor", "Volume Key", etc. I understand now what you want and this is not it. But I have come across the exploded view chapter for the Galaxy S7 Edge phone, which is very similar. That might be helpful?
[Device Repair] R7027:
This is the overview picture from chapter 7 of Galaxy S7 (SM-G930F) manual.

View attachment 5777155
[Device Repair] R7027:
I have attached a PDF containing exploded view of parts and parts list for Galaxy S7 Edge (SM-G935F). It should be almost identical to Galaxy S7 (SM-G930F).

Here is the layout of top side:

View attachment 5777175

And here is the layout of bottom side:

View attachment 5777177
[Device Repair] R7027:
To answer my own question now and to clear up anyone confusion anyone else might have, this is how you measure voltage at a resistor with a multimeter.

View attachment 5777521

View attachment 5777523

Black (negative/ground) test lead on a grounded contact point, like the metal shields in this example, or the metal surface of screw holes. Red (positive) test lead on the positive pin or contact point of the resistor. If you don't know which is which, you need to either check a circuit diagram if you have one or use diode mode and continuity test on your multimeter to figure it out.

In this situation, voltage was about 3.7 V when the power button is pressed, which is full power of the battery. It goes back to 0 V when the power button is released. You do need a power source too, like a battery or a DC power supply. This should be obvious. I don't have a battery connected in these pictures as I only took these pictures for demonstration purpose.

@Renate I didn't check both sides of the resistor as I currently can't take a good reading on this board, because I knocked off a tiny capacitor from the other side of the board as I was taking off the shields, and I'm getting bad readings all over the place. So I need to put that thing back on before I can toy any further with this, and for that I need a microscope. But I have a fresh and fully working board of the same type, in a brand new phone of the same model that I will cannibalize.
[Device Repair] Renate:
Samsung was famous for using the USB 2.0 ID pin to switch into different modes.

This was the point of the AnyWay jig.

If this is an older micro USB connector (and not USB Type C) there might be something to do in this direction.

Another useful technique is to monitor battery current.

You need to remove the battery and replace it with a current monitoring power supply.

Then you can see if your device is even trying to power on and boot.

Here's a plot of around 2 minutes of a device (which, I forget) booting up.

99.9% of all capacitors are directly across power rails.

In regular ohm setting on a DVM they should probably measure open.

We can see that the power switch is working.

You have to see if the USB is doing anything.
[Device Repair] R7027:
Yes, Galaxy S7 uses micro-USB-B connector. It looks like pin number 4 is the ID pin, it sits between GND and DATA+ pin. How was this related to AnyWay jig?

Thanks for the tip! And thanks for sharing that picture, it's really cool to see how the graph goes up and down like a beating heart.

I did actually buy a DC power supply that came with a Modbus to USB interface and a software, but I never got to use it. I don't have the special cable needed to attach to the battery connector on the board. Is this how you do it also? What cable do you use? What do you call this type of cable? So I know what to search for. I'm a bit at lost as to what to buy. There is one called "Mechanic iBoot Box" that seems to be very popular. Is this the right thing? Can you advise me on what to consider when buying one of these? Does it need to have a current limiter for example? My DC power supply already has current limiter (and voltage limiter I think), over current protection (OCP) and over voltage protection (OVP).

This is something I need to explore in more detail. Again, thanks for the tip!

I will make a separate post on "AP_PS_HOLD". But this is supposed to be 1.8 V and as I understand it this is something that goes into the CPU/SOC. So maybe this is the voltage you have been asking about. I'm not sure how this works, or what this cryptic signal name means. But I suspect, that this is what sustains power to the CPU, once the power button is pressed.
[Device Repair] Renate:
Some(?) models of Samsung used a 5 bit ADC that measured the log of resistance to ground of the ID pin.

The range was from direct short (0 ohm, for OTG) to 980 kohm. There were different modes assigned to each ADC reading.

Lol, I just googled it and I came up with myself. https://xdaforums.com/t/samsung-resistors-on-usb-id-pin.3316735/

As far as physically connecting, I've sometimes used a battery-shaped scrap of plastic and some pins.

For junk/permanent battery-ectomy I just solder.

If you are removing the battery, your solution has to support all the functions provided by the battery.

That is quite often a 10 kohm NTC thermistor to ground (just replace with a 10k resistor) and often some ID resistor that identifies the battery pack.

You can carefully measure your battery pack for resistances from any pin that is not + to the ground pin.

I presume that is the "Application Processor power supply hold".

That is not so much an SoC signal as a usage for an SoC GPIO.

In any case, I think that you're diving in too deeply into the grass before you have an idea if this thing is even trying to boot.
[Device Repair] Rizzi87:
Kindly excuse me if your message was directed toward me and I didn't reply earlier. I haven't delved into component troubleshooting for the S7 yet since the display problem with it is most probably due to physical damage and I will confirm it at a later stage. I was referring to testing on my GT-i9060

As I mentioned, I am just testing them for continuity with the phone switched off as this was the method shown on a couple YT videos to trace out a 'bad' capacitor.

Sorry for not mentioning the physical damage on my S7 screen earlier, which I believe, is the cause for the screen not powering on.

I am currently perusing a couple of boardview/schematic softwares and while I haven't been able to utilize even a fraction of its potential, I have been able to determine ground contact points for components on the mobo and the associated 'net' for each component. From there, I have been able to partially understand schematic diagrams.

Which brings me to my next project-in-queue. Well, it was sort of dumped onto me! :geek:

I've got a Samsung Galaxy A10 which shows signs of boot-up (vibration and battery charging sound notification) but the display doesn't turn on. The phone has no apparent physical damage although the LDI has turned pink hinting at water ingress. Today, it even sounded the alarm (f***ing 5 in the morning!) which may have been set before the display went blank proving that the phone is in working condition except the display.

**NOOB ALERT**

I pulled up the service manual/schematic for the A10 and with my limited knowledge, started off with troubleshooting the LCD display connector as per the manual:

View attachment 5793635

Now, I've identified the pin for VDD_LCD_1P8 on HDC7003 and the capacitor connected to it but I have no clue how to measure 1.8v on that line. Do I measure it from the pin to the capacitor or from the pin to ground? OR is it supposed to be measured elsewhere?

Like always, any help is greatly appreciated :giggle:
[Device Repair] blackhawk:
Meh, unless you're doing it for education or amusement it's more productive to treat it from a block rather than component level prospective. Replace the defective switch assembly, etc or pcb.

A parts queen is nice to have...

Mind your ESD protocols as individual out of circuit pcbs can be very suspectable to ESD damage. The less invasive and prolonged the repair effort is, the less the possibility of you causing unintentional collateral damage...
[Device Repair] Rizzi87:
Yes. Apart from the satiating feeling of understanding how these things work, the educative aspect entices me just as much. This phone, the S7 or the GT-i6090, though not being primary, serve as temporary replacements so I intend to try to fix them.

Owing to the above reason, I'm trying to figure out why the lcd isn't working rather than replacing it outright unless I'm sure that it's beyond repair. Hence the component level approach.

ESD damage was among the first things that I discovered when trying to dig out information on repairing mobile phones. An anti-static ESD mat is my next purchase; I already have the wrist strap.
[Device Repair] blackhawk:
In that case carry on...

Using an earth grounded mat and strap help reduce the voltage potential but not eliminate it.

The idea is to quickly bled off charges but with some resistance to avoid causing excessive current through what you're trying to protect as a direct path to earth ground would do.

Raising the RH to beyond 40% will help dissipate charges faster. So a boiling kettle of water in the room... In a dry room the static potential builds quickly and lingers, even crunching a sheet of paper can generate a couple hundred volts. Anti static plastics also build a charge. With a static meter it's rather surprising to see how prevalent static electricity is. It's all around us. Any motion can potentially produce it. Human threshold of perception of it is about 400 volts, already more than enough to cause damage.
[Samsung Galaxy S10 Lite Questions & Answers] immerblind:
Hi,are people with a galaxy s10 lite able to install andnuse GSI from phh?

I need help to find out the steps to install and make it run. Nor.ally i know how to use GSIs...previously used Sony.

But i couldnt make it run on my Samsung.

Any help is appreciated.
[Samsung Galaxy S10 Lite Questions & Answers] immerblind:
just to inform anybody interest in knowing it. iam running trebledroid vanilla android 13 january patch. everything is fine. it isnt that difficult after all, just be sure to remove decryption. use twrp...everything fine. daily usable material.
[Samsung Galaxy S10 Lite Questions & Answers] Pilzburger:
Hey, is there any chance you could write a short "How-To" how you did it? Thanks
[Advantage X7500, MDA Ameo ROM Development] vqscorpions:
Hi Mods!

I really sorry that I have to open new thread, because I and some others also posted here

http://xdaforums.com/showthread.php?t=405016&page=4

but it seems that no one can solve that problem correctly. And MODs seems that don't know about that problem.

So, could MODs give us some ideas and solutions.

For example: I used Original ROM, GPS with TT7 was OK.

But when I change to another ROM (any other ROM), it was so good that everything works well but not GPS.:confused:

Hope to hear from u soon.

Thank you.
[Advantage X7500, MDA Ameo ROM Development] lakeman:
You do know about the problem with validating maps for a new installation of TT7 ?

Do a google for this in xda -devs.
[Advantage X7500, MDA Ameo ROM Development] vqscorpions:
i used this TT7 on Kaiser and it worked like a champ.

and from your instruction, I also sink to another sea that the need information is somewhere but could not find out.

could u pls give me a better ideas. pls don't tell me that: google something in somewhere.

I spent so much time to discuss and post somewhere else.

thanks
[Advantage X7500, MDA Ameo ROM Development] D1ab70:
Clarify.

Please explain the type of gps problems your having, Problems with getting fixes? Problems with tomtom?
[Advantage X7500, MDA Ameo ROM Development] vqscorpions:
I need yr help

thanks friend

My problem is here.

When I bought x7501, I installed TT7.45 with Map of North America. It work fast and better than Kaiser I had.

Then I tried to Up ROM to SPL 3.5 (every ROM for 3.5) and I could not use GPS. TT7 work but it only show the working screen with: Waiting for valid GPS signal... forever. And when I find the GPS position, it says: Poor signal.

I tried to change Radio version but failed.

I also tried to convert back to SPL 1.2 now and working with Official ROM 6.0 (but with SPL 1.2 Oliprof). I tried to change Radio version, from 1.47 to 1.57 to 1.58 but failed. So strange (because I had to format the drive when I convert back from SPL 3.5 to SPL 1.2 so I lost my backup file for SPL 1.2 for original ROM).

Now I can not receive GPS signal.

I also try to install GPS Proxy,but this program doesnt run in my Athena, it says: Negative exception and quit.

I aslo try to change th port for GPS to another COM port, but it will not turn on GPS device.

In my Athena, the default COM port for GPS is COM4.

So, that's my problem.

Could you help me with detail instruction.

So thanks and wait for your help
[Advantage X7500, MDA Ameo ROM Development] D1ab70:
try

you can try going to

settings/system/external gps/

*

software port com 4,hardware leave it at none,set baud 9600,manage gps automatically checked

*

import attached reg file on device

*

install attached visual gps

*

run quickgps ,download updated empheris file

*

soft reset device

*

load visualgps, click agree,click edit,settings,set port to com4,baud 9600,click ok

*

hold device by window or go outside

*

Wait for grey signal bars to go blue then your set

*

load up ttn,click where u see signal bars in lower right,then agn on right above version number,configure gps to use other nmea,set com port 4,baud 9600

*

it should instantly have fix!
[Advantage X7500, MDA Ameo ROM Development] vqscorpions:
thanks friend

i hope it will work

i try it now then tell u later

but do u mean that it works for AP 4 only? or another rom?
[Advantage X7500, MDA Ameo ROM Development] lakeman:
What Radio do you have installed

i am confused because your sig says you have radio 1.57 but you say in your post above that you couldn't upgrade from radio 1.47.

AP4 needs at least radio 1.50 according to here http://www.htc-hackers.com/uploads/AP4_How_To_1.8.pdf