yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Android Head-Units] DexterMorganNL:
Hello there,

Recently I have installed an Android head-unit inside my Suzuki Celerio, which before had a simple but well functioning Bluetooth Car radio with cd player. The main purpose of installing a screen in my car, was in order to install an reverse camera and use it for Android Auto.

Before I thought it was caused by the 12led reverse camera, so I replaced that one by an GreenYi AHD reverse camera. I already have AHD enabled, but that didn't change anything. Expect for the image quality.

I have had my wife film what happens everytime the engine is running, and I'm in reverse. Online I read I might need a Rectifier Relay, but on AliExpress these are specified to be for American or German cars. But that might perhaps be the solution or I'm missing something?

https://a.aliexpress.com/_vUDnd1

I already have tried many things, but none of these solved it. The reverse camera trigger cable, is tapped into the connector of the reverse light. That's how it gets it 12v, because I don't wanna destroy any OEM wiring of the car.

Would this Rectifier Relay really be the solution? In the advertisement, it says don't buy when you do not have German or American car. But I did read within the feedback that it has worked for Volvo example as well, which is Chinese.... okay sorry Swedish.

But I'm really out of options and feel like, I rather have no reverse camera. If I can't get it working properly.
[Android Head-Units] Jack Sparoh:
try connecting the ground cable to the part that is connected directly to the car body, for example on the fastening bolt on the back door of your car or on other parts that have direct contact with the body of your car.

if there is still interference with the video display (like in your video) then

you can try the Rectifier Relay device.

in my experience these devices can be installed on Japanese cars.

Good luck.
[Android Head-Units] DexterMorganNL:
Tried that yesterday evening, didn't change anything. My other thought is that perhaps I should put some tape around the RCA plug that goes into the headunit? But I can't reach it, without taking the system out.

I read that on Reddit.

https://www.reddit.com/r/CarAV/comments/9orlvu

I already ordered a Rectifier Relay Device as well, will take some while before it's going be delivered. That will be my last solution I guess.
[Android Head-Units] DexterMorganNL:
I finally received the Rectifier Relay Device, it took some time with the slow shipping from AlliExpress. But I just installed it between the reverse camera and the power source, the reverse light.

View attachment 5706495

It a very small part, but I'm hoping this did the trick. Because I haven't tested yet, but if this doesn't work? Than I'm kinda out of options. So next time when I'm going take a drive, I will see if it did the job or not.

Well it works with the ignition switch on, so now I just have to wait until I go for a drive. As the interference only was there, while the engine is running. But I atleast already wanted to know if the reverse camera was still working, after putting this Car Camera Filter between it.
[Android Head-Units] DexterMorganNL:
Well it didn't work at all, the interference is still there and perhaps even worse than before. I'm getting a bit frustrated by all of this, because I already tried so much.

Only thing which I haven't tried, is wiring the ground cable directly to the ground or the reverse light. Just I don't know which connection inside the plug, is the ground? That's why I had the ground connected to the car directly.

I also have seen a YouTube video, in where the ground cable was actually causing this interference.
[Android Head-Units] leo06:
The problem is the voltage, when engine is running the voltage goes around 14v, you can try a dc to dc step down converter. Headunit has cable that can feed the reverse camera, you can try this as well
[Android Head-Units] DexterMorganNL:
That sounds like a good idea this dc to dc step down converter, as they are relatively cheap on AliExpress. So it's worth a try.
[Android Head-Units] Pavel-71:
The connection to the reverse light causes problems, if there is interference, then an anti-interference filter should help, if that doesn't help, then anything can interfere, for example an additional connected appliance, non-original led bulbs, alternator, antenna amplifier..... The best and cheapest the solution is to connect the power supply of the camera directly to the car radio, I think mekede has it on pin A5- reverse detecting line. After switching on the reverse, you will measure 12V here. This output gives a stable voltage without interference.

View attachment 5711505
[Android Head-Units] DexterMorganNL:
Wouldn't I need to run a very long DC cable from that connection than to reverse camera? Which is near to impossible, as those cables aren't long enough. Now the trigger wire from the RCA cable is connected to the reverse light, where it sends the trigger to the headunit.

And it sends the trigger by this wire, to the headunit. Because at the headunit the trigger wire is connected at the other end as well, to the A5 pin.

Anyway it could be high frequency noise being picked up: I talked with a fellow Dutch Suzuki Celerio owner, and he said it would most likely be high frequency noise. In order to solve that, you need to put a ferrite core ring around that cable.

View attachment 5711567

So I ordered two of those as well, and going put one closely to the RCA connector at the headunit. I should be able to reach that cable, without the need to take a the headunit.

And I think the DC to DC step down converter, might actually not make a difference: because if I'm not mistaken, this anti-interference filter which I have sitting between there now. Would also convert the voltage down to 12v and the interference is still there, it even got worse as the image looks wrapped.

Before that it was just some black artifacts appearing in the image, but now the image even freezes sometimes for a verg short time. It's like milliseconds, but I could still see it happening. So that filter needs to be removed, as it makes things worse.

But it's a pain in the ass and if these Ferrite rings or the DC to DC step down converter doesn't work, than I'm just going live with this interference. It didn't effect the ability of using the reverse camera the whole time, just a bit annoyed to OCD autistic brain which is malfunctioning. Others might already have stopped trying to solve it, but I still continue.

But if you would power it directly from the headunit: I'm correct than, that I would need to run the power cable all the way to the headunit? And wiring the trigger wire at that point, together the AC power cable?

Just the way I have done at the reverse, but you would still need the trigger from that reverse light. Else it won't work.
[Android Head-Units] Pavel-71:
A5- reverse detecting line, should give 12V only after switching on the reverse, so it is enough to connect it directly to the camera. Try to measure it first. I have it wired like this and it works without any problems.View attachment 5711613
[Android Head-Units] DexterMorganNL:
You have canbus? There is no way, it would get the trigger if it isn't connected to the reverse light in my case. Because only that way the headunit knows, to switch to the reverse camera. As my car doesn't have canbus.

So I would guess the trigger wire needs to be connected both at the reverse light, and the headunit: where you would than have to run another long cable. And I believe the power cable might not be long enough.

And then at the headunit, you need to join the trigger wire and cable of the DC together and connect them to A5 Reverse Detecting wire. Which I thought is only meant to give the headunit the signal, that reverse camera is powered on. I didn't know it can power the reverse camera as well.

Anyway this I might consider the very very very last option, because it's a pain in the ass to again run a all the way to the truck. That was one of the most difficult things, of the installation of the reverse camera.

Placing a Ferrite ring, is actually way easier: so I hope that would help.
[Android Head-Units] Pavel-71:
Yes, I have a Canbus adapter, it didn't occur to me that you don't have one, that will probably be the problem. In that case, wiring to the reverse light is necessary.
[Android Head-Units] leo06:
The reverse detecting line is only a trigger for the headunit to when the reverse gear is selected. There is another cable for reverse camera power.
[Android Head-Units] TorstenH:
My car doesn't have canbus but the reverse trigger line. I use the reverse signal to power the camera like suggested by @Pavel-71

Some camera vendors and vendors of step-down converters suggest to use REVERSE as power source. Another approach could be to use B+ and trigger via a relay via reverse.
[Android Head-Units] DexterMorganNL:
Ferrite Beads didn't change a thing.... interference is still there. I only haven't tried the DC to DC step down converter, but I'm getting very tired to try to solve this interference.

View attachment 5729637

I figured out how to setup this DC to DC step down converter: with this one, you can't set the input voltage. So in order to setup the output voltage, I used an old notebook charger that is labeled to output 19v.

View attachment 5729639

So with this little screw, you need to turn it. One time around is about 1v, but I wanted to be sure. But now it's setup at 12v and if I would install it, between the reverse light and reverse camera power connection.

Than when the engine is running, it would be converted down from whichever voltage it's having. Down to 12v. Not sure when I'm going try it out, but atleast I already setup the step down converter.
[Android Head-Units] DexterMorganNL:
For anyone finding this topic after searching on Google: the DC to DC step down converter, didn't work and made things worse.

View attachment 5729971View attachment 5729973

Only thing that surprised me, the built-in voltmeter was measuring just 10.5v and not 12v. But this can't be correct..... I guess it might be off a bit. Anyway I'm out of options and going keep it the way it is.

I will take the interference for granted: still don't know if the RCA cable is picking something up, or its indeed because of the fluctuating voltage that the reverse light gives.
[Android Head-Units] leo06:
With the engine running says 10.5v? Did you adjust the output of the converter?
[Android Head-Units] DexterMorganNL:
Yes the output was set to 12v: you adjust it with this screw. I did that with a 19v notebook adapter, because this step down converter won't let you put in a higher voltage than the input source.

The 10.5v was without engine running: I tried to film with my phone, what the voltage would be when the engine runs. But the vibrations made this little Mainboard fall down.

Only thing I was still able to capture: when it fell, the input voltage was showing just below 9v so that doesn't make sense either. Because it should normally be higher when the engine is running.
[Android Head-Units] leo06:
What car model do you have? The reverse light is led or normal bulb?

do you have a multimeter to check the voltage?
[Android Head-Units] DexterMorganNL:
Suzuki Celerio 2015 build year: it's a normal bulb inside. No I don't have a multimeter, almost ordered a cheap one from AlliExpress. But feel like that I already been wasting some money on trying to solve this.
[Android Head-Units] leo06:
Maybe the problem when engine running is the voltage drops below 10v?
[Android Head-Units] DexterMorganNL:
Could be, but when I measured the voltage coming from the sigaret lighter. It would show me a voltage between 14v and 15v and this comes, from the same power source as the reverse light.

So the voltage dropping even lower, doesn't make directly sense to me. Especially after having driven for a bit. God knows what's the real problem: I only know that I need to stop trying to solve, what I can't seem to get solved.

Could be my car's battery as well: next year at 8 may my car will be 8 years old, and having the same Stop-Start battery for 8 years. But as long the car starts fine, and during summer the Stop-Start still works. Than I ain't going replace it yet, because a new stop start battery is quite expensive and needs to be replaced by a professional.

One thing doesn't make totally sense: why for aftermarket reverse camera's, they still use a analog signal? If the signal was digital, then I'm sure it wouldn't be the video cable. But I'm not willing to replace the RCA cable, as it was a pain in the ass to get to the back in the first place.

@leo06 I searched on Google, that the voltage drops right after starting seems to be normal. I'm assuming the voltmeter, on these step down converter are also slightly off. I just don't know how much.
[Android Head-Units] DexterMorganNL:
I think I might have figured out what's going on with the voltage: on YouTube I found an explanation about it.

So this guy explains, that the incandescent light draws a lot of current. Replacing that bulb with an LED one, might solve the issue.

To test it, I would have to take out the light bulb and see what happens when I start the engine.
[Android Head-Units] rigattoni:
Sorry, but really?

If your alternator is charging the battery (This is the case as long the engine is running), the battery voltage should be between 13,2 and ~14,5 Volts.

Those bulbs for the reverse gear take about 20W, so it would not tear down the voltage under 12V... never.

Take a cable and run it to the back, instead using the back light... and the issue is gone.
[Android Head-Units] DexterMorganNL:
I'm going replace the reverse light anyway with an LED one: it makes sense to me, that explanation I found on YouTube. Yes the car's battery has plenty of juice, but when you tap into the reverse light connection for powering a ( AHD ) reverse camera.

Than basically the connection only meant for the reverse light, needs to be shared with the reverse camera. Perhaps it doesn't make sense to you? It didn't to me either, but I really got that low voltage reading from the DC to DC step down converter. But now I understand this is called Voltage Droop.

And I have tested it at home, with a 12v adapter. But also a 19v adapter, so it can't be that much off. Because both voltage where correctly measured.

It was the wire that I tapped into with the reverse light, which was measured by the voltmeter. While ignition was still on ON, it was 10.5v and it dropped to 8.48 when the engine started. After that I couldn't see the reading anymore. Because it was difficult to record.

Also it isn't an option to run another wire to the back, in that case a relay would be needed as well. That's where I found the comment on YouTube, about replacing the incandescent bulb by an LED one.

€ 3,78 34%OFF | 2Pcs 1156 P21W BA15S 1157 BAY15D Led Cob Filament Chip Auto Reverse Lamp Parking Lamp Auto Remlichten 12V Rood Wit Geel

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EwoQTXD

Replacing the incandescent bulb by an LED one, is way easier. Yes I successfully routed the RCA cable, but took me quite some time. So I'm not willing to do this again, and I don't even have a DC cable long enough to go from the front to the back.
[Android Head-Units] DexterMorganNL:
One thing I'm sure now, higher voltage shouldn't be the issue.

I attached my old reverse camera to the TV, seeing if I could reproduce anything. Which might be difficult, because it's connected to an CVBS to HDMI converter.

But I did some testing, surprisingly it kept working at a voltage of 18.5 and when I turned the voltage lower than 10.5 then issues start showing up, but they might be filtered out by the converter which upscales the whole image.

So actually these camera's are capable of working between 12v and 24v as they can also be installed in trucks. And those LEDs at the crappy reverse camera, which actually had less interference.... are quite bright.

More likely lower than 12v might cause issues, but in the car the voltage fluctuates. Something I can't reproduce with a step down converter, because I can't turn that little screw so fast down and up....

Ofcourse in this case the power connection isn't shared by a burning reverse light, so it's not totally the same anyway.
[Android Head-Units] DexterMorganNL:
Nothing I have tried helped: now I'm thinking of putting a relay, and power it by the fuse box from the acc fuse.

€ 0,41 18%OFF | 12V MINI SMALL MEDIUM Size Car Fuse Holder Add-a-circuit TAP Adapter with 10A Micro Mini Standard ATM Blade Fuse

https://a.aliexpress.com/_Ezjdvop

I found this kind of connecter, which you can put in your fuse box to power your reverse camera or any other accessories you built-in afterwards. But because running a cable to the back of the car is such a pain in the ass, this is one of my last options.

€ 1,44 44%OFF | 5m/10m/20m UL2468 2 Pins Electrical Wire 16/18/20/22/24/26/28/30 Gauge AWG Tinned Copper Insulated PVC Extension LED Strip Cable

https://a.aliexpress.com/_Euchg2D

Also I would need a long enough power cable: what for AWG size are these reverse camera's using? I remember it's a thin cable, but would 30awg be to thin?

Before doing this, I have though of one less test I wanna do: I ordered a bunch of small 12v batteries, which should be able to power the reverse camera as well. Not sure though how long such a battery last, but I saw bigger battery packs as well.

So for once and all, I want to be 100% sure if it's caused by the power coming from the reverse light. I started a project of retrofitting my lights bulbs, already did the headlight and taillights. For the reverse light I put an LED as well, but that theory which I got from a YouTube comment didn't help.

And I guess I will order a relay from AliExpress as well.
[Android Head-Units] DexterMorganNL:
So during my trip in Hongkong: I kinda started another project, to retrofit my indicators. On that point I was figuring out the wiring diagram of the rearlights, because I would have to add load resistor's.

Well that project I decided to not continue: to much of a hassle, atleast for now in the winter. But it atleast made me understand which colour was for which light. I knew already RED was for the reverse light, so that's how I already taped into there.

What I didn't know however: which wire was tje ground wire? So after figuring out the diagram, I figured out there was only one and not multiple ground wires. So it was the black wire. So now the ground wire from the reverse camera, is taped into there and finally I solved the interference.

I had the relay already setup with a small 12v battery, however that worked for just a few seconds. That's when I decided to plug the ground wire, directly into the ground wire of the reverse light. And well now I don't need the relay anymore.
[Android Head-Units] Jack Sparoh:
Congratulations, finally your persistence pays off .
[Android Head-Units] Panamanian:
Good for that.

My reverse camera (with or without the engine on) looks cristal clear..... BUT... if i drive for about 40 minutes during the night it starts to slightly flickers.

What could it be? something is hot? is it normal?
[Android Head-Units] DexterMorganNL:
Don't know? You drive Volkswagen?
[Android Head-Units] Panamanian:
negative.

Subaru Forester

I dont know if a HDD i have in my car could be interfering (it's a mechanic HDD Western digital), or maybe it's drawing too much current 1AMP
[Android Head-Units] Panamanian:
The car in the image IS NOT MINE, but after about 40 minutes my reverse camera looks with some flickering just like this one:

✂️ Some flickering

24 seconds · Clipped by Ronald D. · Original video "Mercedes-Benz C-Class W204 Audio 20 - Backup Camera Installation" by Daniel Sadjadian

www.youtube.com

I hope you can appreciate it.
[Android Head-Units] DexterMorganNL:
German car have different issues: I guess yours must be related by the power source. In the end mine was a ground issue.... not proper grounded. Where have you grounded it?
[Android Head-Units] Panamanian:
I have not grounded it. Only the RCA cable as a ground (like most people do use them perfectly).
[Android Head-Units] DexterMorganNL:
There you have your issue: you need to ground it properly at the camera side as well. I tested without grounding it to anything and grounding it to chassis. Same results.

In the end it the interference was solved 99% by connecting the ground cable, to the negative of the reverse light.
[HTC Excalibur] blackjack2:
I'll do this like a patient case workup:

Patient: My brother

Occupation: Medical Student

Previous Phone: Blackberry Curve 8300 with Data Plan (it was a refurb that died)

Age: 25

Data Usage: on a scale from 1-10, maybe a 3-4 emailing a little bit and some google searches

Network: ATT

Computer: iBook

Location: Philadelphia

Type of Phone Experience: a complete Monkey, my Jack Russell Terrier probably knows more about phones than my brother, lol :p but once he learns the basics he's alright

Requirements:

0. OS: whichever one can manage all the steps below easy, maybe RIM, S60, WM, iPhone, willing to pay up to $300-$400

1. Long battery life at least 10-12hrs

2. Qwerty keyboard

3. Email - a university email and a gmail account

4. SMS/MMS

5. MicroSd memory for pics and video

6. GPS or A-GPS with pedestrian view

7. Maybe Exchange support, his last sim card got corrupted and you know what happened

Icing on the cake

1. Facebook

2. MySpace

so what do you guys think, I'm thinking maybe a Nokia, maybe a Blackjack II, but I'd like to have your opinion, you guys are the best and one of most knowledgeable groups I know ;)

Thanks in advance for chiming in.:)
[HTC Excalibur] thousandlegs:
maybe

have you looked into the G1 or the new touch screen blackberry? those both look pretty promising. the dash/excalibur is a good phone too. :) the iPhone doesnt' have micro sd support if i'm not mistaken but it would probably be most compatible with his computer.
[HTC Excalibur] ccpraveen:
Not wanting to sound like a pariah in this windowsmobile forum, I would suggest a Nokia E71, about to be launched in ATT. Simple and does all these needs, good camera, 3.2 MP, and decent sound.

I myself am a windowsmobile person, on ATT, with BJ2 6.1 ATT ROM, but I guess WM world might be a but too much with the tweaks needed, for ur monkey.

Plus skyscape now has come up with good support, so u can crack and have all those for him in there.

BTW fella, u a dr or med student by any chance, just curious, Am myself one, hence asking
[HTC Excalibur] blackjack2:
Thanks, I was thinking the E71 myself(I like that phone myself) I'm actually a dentist, Skyscape, yep, I have all those apps :D.
[HTC Excalibur] blackjack2:
Thanks, but you know the Dash has a not so good battery life unless you get the extended version.
[HTC Excalibur] karelj:
I suggest the Blackberry Bold. He is already familiar with the OS and the Bold is a sweet piece of tech.
[HTC Excalibur] jdoggraz:
I would suggest either the dash or the G1, if you do decide to get the Dash get the extended battery as it will go a long way...
[HTC Excalibur] blackjack2:
thanks guys, I appreciate all your suggestion, I just read the E71 will be released by ATT as the e71X, it looks pretty darn sweet, so will see, thanks
[HTC Excalibur] blackjack2:
the G1 is to thick and my brother won't be able to figure how to reset a stuck or low memory dash when it gets all clogged, we all know what that means :)
[HTC Excalibur] Mikey:
HTC PRO :D

or wait till summer, new phones will be hitting the arena
[HTC Excalibur] blackjack2:
Has anyone actually seen a Bold, how does it compare to a Dash
[HTC Excalibur] jdoggraz:
The new Samsung Behold phone coming out for Tmobile seems pretty promising... :) It has real web browsing and 3G...

I was actually messing around with it the other day and it is amazing... I think he will love it...
[HTC Excalibur] jdoggraz:
You can not really compare a windows phone with a blackberry phone... :)