[Samsung Galaxy Watch] enigmaamit:
Hi @kaishef . I'm going to sound a little blunt here, but I'm only trying to help.

@adfree has linked everything you need to get your watch fixed and running (if it is possible to do by yourself). It will take a few hours of reading but you can figure it out if you read it enough times.

If you can't move forward at any step, come back and tell us which specific part you're stuck on and we'll try to help. But we have no idea what progress you've made and where you're having difficulty... how are we supposed to help? We can't come to your home and fix your watch for you, you have to do it yourself, and we can only help by answering clear, objective questions.

I'm not trying to be rude, but this is how volunteer help works on forums like this. I've learnt this over the last 11+ years on XDA that this forum is a treasure trove of info and good samaritans willing to help. You get more support here from people than you do from the manufacturer of the device! But there's very little spoon feeding to be expected here. Nearly everyone has a life outside of XDA and no actual obligation to help. We all do it out of love and passion and in some cases, raw talent, in our free time. We are all willing to help you, even if it takes going out of the way. But you have to meet us halfway too...

Let me try to outline the process for you once:

1. Flashing older Tizen formware over newer software will brick your watch (eg flashing 4.4 over 5.5). It's due to a software feature called Rollback Prevention that Samsung does on a low-level firmware update.

2. Usually this is a soft brick and can be salvaged by flashing back the newer, correct firmware on your watch.

3. The problem is, that usually a bad flash kills your Wireless capability and you can't use NetOdin to flash the firmware on your watch anymore.

4. This can be solved by using regular USB Odin, which doesn't rely on a functioning wireless capability.

5. The USB connection for watch is located under the watch at 12 o clock position under a kidney bean shaped cover that is removable (look for a small notch on the right side of the cover. Underneath the cover, you will find the PIN contacts for the USB connection. This helps you connect the watch to your PC with a USB cable. One end of the connecting wire is USB A that plugs into your computer, and the other end has to be connected to the pins on the watch. But the PIN connector not use any standard interface like micro-USB etc so you'll have to find a way to keep the USB wires firmly connected with the contact points through the entire software flashing process.

6. There are many different ways to do this. You could make POGO pin docks, makeshift hand-held pin connectors, 3D printed docks for the watch that mimic service dock modules that Samsung uses (if you have a 3D printer), or ask a friend or employ someone to print one for you. You could try to buy a readymade one online. And if you're very good with soldering, you could just solder the wires into place on the pins - there are many ways to reach the same destination. It will depend upon your skills and the resources available to you. Oh, and as to which wires go to which pins, even that is mentioned in the posts linked above.

7. Once this is done, all you have to do is load up ODIN on your computer, confirm that the watch is detected by it successfully, and flash the correct firmware.

This is your way to connect the watch to your computer via USB when wireless Odin is not an option.

Now, if you go through the links @adfree posted above, it covers all that I summarised, but in much greater detail. Some of them are long threads that document the journey of other people like you who got stuck and figured out the problem with trial and error. Those posts are also worth reading. It will take time and effort, but it is do-able, unless you've hard bricked your watch or discovered a new problem that nobody on these forums has encountered before. But we can try to figure that out...