yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Redmi Note 9S / Note 9 Pro (Indian Model) ROMs, Ke] sathish43210:
i used pitch black recovery and flashed this ROM, but am stuck at redmi logo, when i went back to recovery it is asking for password to decrypt, anyone faced this issue?
[Redmi Note 9S / Note 9 Pro (Indian Model) ROMs, Ke] nilofino:
I downloaded PixelExperience_Plus_curtana-10.0-20201121-0747-OFFICIAL, but it stock in bootloop,

I wiped and did factory reset several times by PB,

any suggection?
[Redmi Note 9S / Note 9 Pro (Indian Model) ROMs, Ke] lolo9393:
Wiped! OK but better a format data to clean all.
[Redmi Note 9S / Note 9 Pro (Indian Model) ROMs, Ke] nilofino:
If by ""format data"" action you mean "YES- Required-Action", I did several times both of them (wipe & factory-reset).

one thing more: after trying some different roms ( Havoc, RR, PEE, PE+,... ) I lost my WIFI‌ and IMEIs, I restored Full-Backups: DIDN‌'T Help.

If I flash rom.eu MIUI‌11, my WIFI‌ and IMEIs back to normal,

BUT if I try flash again Havoc (which used to worked for me perfectly) again my WIFI‌ and IMEIs corrupts.

What should I do???
[Redmi Note 9S / Note 9 Pro (Indian Model) ROMs, Ke] lolo9393:
Flash it without wiping EU rom via OTG.

That should keep radio settings.

Then format data to remove encryption.

Edit: if not solved, flash fastboot rom via Miflash in order to reset persist partition.
[Redmi Note 9S / Note 9 Pro (Indian Model) ROMs, Ke] nilofino:
Thanks for reply,

What do you mean by "Flashing Via OTG"?

Do you mean using an OTG‌-Cable? (I don't have any :( )

May I ask you to explain it a bit more?

thanks.
[Redmi Note 9S / Note 9 Pro (Indian Model) ROMs, Ke] lolo9393:
the best way to flash multiple rom is to do that via OTG stick or external SD card (you have it on Curtana/Joyeuse)

That way you can install a rom without having to decrypt and format data.

(OTG stick memory or a USB cable loaded with simple USB stick, if you have a M/Female cable)
[Redmi Note 9S / Note 9 Pro (Indian Model) ROMs, Ke] nilofino:
so if I put my rom files on a microSDCard and insert it into the smartphone, it should works as you said, right?? or it is mandatory to connect the SDCard via a cardReader + OTG‌ Cable?
[Redmi Note 9S / Note 9 Pro (Indian Model) ROMs, Ke] lolo9393:
Yes, you can load all the zip rom you want into your external SDcard and from that you select it in TWRP for installation in a row.

Not needed an OTG stick if you don't have any.
[Android Head-Units] dbagy:
Hi, I have chinese android car head unit with this specification:

Model: CY-CT068

Android version: 7.1

Allwinner quad-core T3 , CPU 1.2Ghz ; Cortex A9 architecture

RAM: DDR3 1GB

ROM: 16GB

•	7 inch 2-DIN touch screen TFT LCD display,

•	1.2G Quad Core CPU with 1G DDR3

•	Build in 16G Flash Memory for Music/Navigation Map Data/Video

•	AM/FM/RDS Radio, Auto Memory Store/Preset Scan

•	Build in WIFI

•	Support Mirror Link for Smart Phone

•	Build in GPS receiver, with the GPS antenna compatible with Waze/Navfree/Google Map etc

•	Support Steering wheel control

•	Multimedia Player Compatibility with all format

•	Build in radio, FM/AM with available for any market. (Europe, Australia, South America, North America, Russia, Japan, etc.)

•	Super High Definition with 1024 x 600 pixel

•	Build in RDS

•	SD/MMC card USB-reader support MP4, DIVX, JPEG, MP3 and WMA playback, Can support maximum 32G compatibility

•	Build in 4X45W Hi Fi amplifier output

•	2 Channel RCA Output/1 Channel Video Output/2 x Rear USB Input

•	Volume/Fader/Balance/Treble/Bass Control

•	DSP Preset Flat POP ROCK CLASS JAZZ CUSTOM

•	Build-in Bluetooth 4.0 with A2DP/Hands Free/Phone book

•	Preset Multi EQ Settings

•	Support Bluetooth MP3 Player Function (Attention: This function can only be realized when the mobile phone supports Bluetooth Audio Output)

•	Support Rear-view camera

•	Support DVR input,easy to control DVR on the display screen.(DVR is optional, need to buy DVR seperately)

•	Support TPMS.(TPMS Kits are optional, need to buy the kits seperately)

•	Built-in Canbus, support the steering wheel control and original information displaying

•	Voltage: DC 12V(24V need to add a power adapter);

•	Current: 30 mA

•	Output power: 4 * 45 W

•	Operating temperature: -30 degrees-80 degrees

•	FM frequency: 87.5-108MH AM frequency: 522-1710KHZ

In Extra settings there is an option to set radio region and I set it up to Europe, and also in Conf I checked "RDS" checkbox. Restarted head unit but when I start radio app I get new text box with "None" info displayed. Tried other regions but without success getting RDS info.

Am I missing something here?

BTW MCU version is T5.3.19-150-13-C07101-181008 and System version is V8.2.3_20180713.155939_SPX2
[Android Head-Units] RossMacgill:
You might have to enable/turn it on in the radio app, sometimes it can be a bit hit and miss if it works
[Android Head-Units] dbagy:
Radio app shows text box "None" where(I assume) should be shown RDS info after I've turned it on in Extra settings of unit. Cannot find any additional settings within radio app. Strange.
[Android Head-Units] dbagy:
Does somebody have another radio apk just to try?
[Android Head-Units] Bob_Sanders:
On my head unit there is a switch to turn rds on/off in the factory settings section
[Android Head-Units] dbagy:
I have it also but when I tick RDS check box radio app just gets text line showing "None" but no real rds info about radio station.
[Android Head-Units] dbagy:
Here you can see "None" text box.
[Android Head-Units] Bob_Sanders:
Not sure what the "NONE" is but I don't believe it has anything to do with rds. It's too small an area. The RDS usually runs where the channel numbers are.

Have you enabled "RDS" in "

FACTORY

" settings. (you have to use the default password for your machine to get into factory settings.)

View attachment 5099681
[Android Head-Units] dbagy:
Here are the pics from factory settings-Extra settings , I enter password and here I can adjust radio region and in Config info I enable RDS. When I enable RDS, "None" text box shows otherwise it is not showing.
[Android Head-Units] dbagy:
Can you maybe send me apk file of your radio app?

Tnx in advance.
[Android Head-Units] Bob_Sanders:
My system is not rooted and I can not get into the system/app folder to copy the apk. I doubt my radio app would work on yours anyway. I'm a px6 on android 10

You can TRY Navradio+.... but there is a note saying it's not really compatible with allwinner T3

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.navimods.radio
[Android Head-Units] dbagy:
Tried Navradio+ free version but no luck. Seems that RDS won't work.

Thanks.
[Chromebooks] scrumpypaul:
Hi all.

Wife has XE500C21. I want to put CloudReady on it but can't find out how the write protect feature can be disabled. Can anyone help please?
[Chromebooks] scrumpypaul:
I have found the answer. The XE500C21 has a physical developer switch beneath the panel on the right hand side. Once activated, the write-protect system is virtual and can be disabled through a command.

From there, things ground to a halt because try as I might I just couldn't get it to load Cloud Ready. At least in the 64bit guise.

However, I used the last 32bit image that Neverware produced, and that has worked.

So, not quite what I had hoped but my wife's Chromebook is at least a bit quicker and more up to date than it ever was.

Hopefully this post might help someone else.
[Chromebooks] msrinath80:
Thanks so much kind sir! I was able to bring my XE500C21 back to life with the Neverware Cloudready 32 bit version as you described. The only quirk I came across was that the reboot never happened after the install. I fixed this by closing and opening my chromebook after hitting Ctrl+D at the verification off screen. It works now without any problems. Plus I had to use a 32 GB USB disk to have the image (*.bin) working. The 8 GB Verbatim drive did not work. Once again, thank you again for your help!
[Chromebooks] tesbreag:
Hey sorry for reviving your old thread, but I've just been given this ancient model of Chromebook and I'd love to get a more up to date OS on it. Do you have any tips on how you achieved this? I've logged into Developer Mode via the switch, but it doesn't seem to get me any further.

The much vaunted ctrl+f2 to get into a command line just takes me to a blank screen without a prompt and all my input such as usernames and passwords entered so far in plain text on the screen (which seems ridiculously unsecure!)

The few guides online seem very underwritten, taking a lot of knowledge for granted.

Any help much appreciated. Thanks for reading. It seems like a really nice machine but a decade old now so could really do with an update!
[8125, K-JAM, P4300, MDA Vario General] EricCartman:
Hi folks,

I'm new and hope you can help me with a problem I've been having with my wizard. Recently it began to de-calibrate. Re-calibration failed because when I tried that, I couldn't point to the cross in the middle of the screen (the first of the calibration points) - it just wouldn't react. After many tries and pointing with my finger the calibration in the middle seemed to work and continued with all the four corners, but started all over again. I could do this ten times, it didn't matter. Only after I let it alone for a few minutes the calibration stopped and I was able to return to WM (trying to live with a de-calibration sucks).

So it seems that the de-calibration was the very thing that prevented me from re-calibrating my screen. :(

I read about this phenomenon, it seems to be quite common, yet I could not find a solution for it.

Anyway, I did a backup of my data and did a hard-reset, hoping that this might do the trick and reset whatever wrong calibration was stored. Unfortunately this was not the case. After the hard-reset and bootup, the initial calibration failes for the exact same reason as explained. Problem is, now simply waiting a few minutes to get to WM won't help, it's still waiting for calibration, which, because of de-calibration, cannot be completed.

Is there

a) any way I can skip this initial calibration attempt (some button, I read something about this, but couldn't find anything specific) so to at least get to WM and use my wizard using buttons

b) a solution for this calibration problem besides repairs (I don't have warranty for it, so I guess I wouldn't pay that much, but get another phone)

?

I appreciate any help on this, so far it cost me many hours, but now I'm stuck with my wizard and there is no way I can use it as long as I don't get an answer to at least my first question.

Also: Is this a hardware problem (I could probably get another display, might this help?) or software?
[8125, K-JAM, P4300, MDA Vario General] ashasaur:
To me it sounds like the digitizer on top of the screen has got something wrong with it. Did you perhaps drop or let your Wizard get hit? If so, it may have just barely cracked the glass digitizer, and that would cause your problem. I hope that helps some!
[8125, K-JAM, P4300, MDA Vario General] ktemkin:
If your touchscreen (digitizer) seems to be intact, it's possible the ribbon cable has simply come lose. Sadly, this happens more frequently on the slider-type devices than on clam-shell on bar designs. I believe that's not an easy repair; I'm pretty sure HTC resistance welds their touchscreen ribbon cables directly to the LCD module.

If you're the type, you could try poking around with a soldering iron, but it may not do much good.

If you want to completely eradicate the on-startup calibration, you can overwrite Welcome.exe on the device; this will get rid of all the "Welcome to Windows Mobile" hoopla, as well as the first-time calibration. Good luck using an uncalibrated touchscreen, though.
[8125, K-JAM, P4300, MDA Vario General] veda_sticks:
put a file called welcome.not on your storage card in the root directory, this will skip the welcom and calibration after a hard reset.
[8125, K-JAM, P4300, MDA Vario General] EricCartman:
hi,

first, thank you for all your comments so far.

in another thread somebody said that just cleaning the borders of the display might help. i disessembled my wizard (if you are interested in knowing how to do that, here's a page where it shows how to replace the display of a vario, it's in german though) an did just that (there was lots of dirt there), checked all cable connections, sadly it changed nothing.

so i will try to replace the whole display unit (that is, if i find one), hopefully this will help.

i will also try putting welcome.not onto my memory card (the file must contain nothing else, i suppose?), so to at least have control over my wizard using buttons. that i will do tomorrow, unfortunately i have no cardreader where i am right now.

i also thought that probably another solution (for getting access to my wizard, not for the calibration problem) could be possible. since i backed up my system just before the hard-reset (using sprite backup), i wonder if it is possible to somehow restore that backup without actually having to go into WM and the sprite backup program. is there a way to do that with just using the memory card with the backup on it?
[8125, K-JAM, P4300, MDA Vario General] mikendawn:
page where it shows how to replace the display of a vario, it's in german though) an did just that (there was lots of dirt there), checked all cable connections, sadly it changed nothing.

so i will try to replace the whole display unit (that is, if i find one), hopefully this will help.

-------------------------------

FYI - I had a very similar problem, and I had to replace the whole LCD/Digitizer assembly. Not too expensive, but not very cheap either. Nonetheless, better then getting a whole new phone, as I had to do when my SX56 died :(
[8125, K-JAM, P4300, MDA Vario General] EricCartman:
that worked perfectly. :)

as for the original problem (de-calibration), that remains unsolved. after overriding the initial calibration attempt (using welcome.not) it was of course not possible to navigate WM with the stylus, just by using buttons. another attempt of calibration failed also, but that was to be expected, so i restored my backup, hoping to find myself right where i had started (still de-calibrated, but at least manageable until i get a replacement for my display unit).

surprisingly, after the backup restoration the display was as de-calibrated as before, right after the hard-reset (in other words totally). so where that leaves me now is with my original WM minus the possibility of stylus navigation (which sucks).

anyway, thanks again for all the help, i'll keep you posted when i get the replacement display unit.

btw, is there a way to calibrate my smartphone via my pc?
[8125, K-JAM, P4300, MDA Vario General] ktemkin:
Well, there's no way to 'calibrate' it, and if your touchscreen is broken, this won't help, but just in case it's an odd software glitch, or your touchscreen is partially intact, I believe the calibration is stored in the registry.

I may be wrong, as I won't have my Wizard for testing until later this week, but if memory/google serves, the following registry tweak should give you a baseline calibration.

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\HARDWARE\DEVICEMAP\TOUCH
"CalibrationData"="1922,1957 3330,639 3317,3276 600,3230 609,677 "

There are a number of remote registry editors that will allow you to edit this from the PC. If your touchscreen seems to work better with this edit, you can try tweaking the numbers manually- I believe it treats the touchscreen as matrix of 3900x3900 touch points, where lesser numbers are closer to the top right; the calibration numbers in the string are the X,Y coordinates of the points you touch for each of the five X's in order.
[8125, K-JAM, P4300, MDA Vario General] EricCartman:
ingenious! with your help i was able to restore the calibration from above, so to at least be able to use my stylus again - at least to a certain extend, since the calibration coordinates you posted are not 100% precise and definitely need some tuning.

after a soft-reset to get the new registry values loaded (not just inserting the stylus into the reset hole, this way the new values are lost; you have to turn the device off and on again) i tried again to calibrate - it failed again, for the same reason as at the very beginning (clicks on the middle crosse were not accepted).

i have 2 explanations for this:

1.) my display unit IS damaged and simply does not accept clicks in that area

or

2.) the first coordinate is wrong.

i did some thinking and calculating on this. i don't fully agree with you when you say that the coordinates refer to the upper right corner. if you hold the device like you were using it (not in landscape mode), the point 0/0 is actually the one down RIGHT. only if you're thinking in landscape mode is it down left.

anyway, since the coordinates for the four corners seemed more or less ok (although i wondered why points on the same axis differ in their coordinates, which they shouldn't), i did some calculations and came up with these coordinates for the middle-point: 1361,1312

this is how i went about it:

(3330-609)/2=1360.5

(3230-607)/2=1311.5

i tried them (leaving the others as they were), but they horribly failed and i had to hard-reset my wizard to start all over.

still, i do not understand why the other coordinates seem to be correct, yet my calculation was wrong. 1922,1957 for the middle just seems totally wrong to me when i look at the other coordinates which work fine.

do you have any thoughts on that?

what would also be very helpful would be the actual coordinates from a wizard which is correctly calibrated. anyone reading this with a working wizard, please share them with us.
[8125, K-JAM, P4300, MDA Vario General] joemanb:
if you look at the screen using portrait orientation the UPPER RIGHT corner is 0,0. that's why the numbers for the final calibration cross (upper right) are the smallest.

you should have added instead of subtracted (then divide by 2 like you did) to get your midpoint.

If the upper left calibration cross is 3280 from the right side, and the upper right calibration cross is 620 from the right side (about the same distance the upper left is from the left side of the screen) that would mean you would have to ADD to get the total width. Your method yields the distance from calibration cross to calibration cross (divided by 2).

I think ktemkin is right, the matrix is about 3900x3900 with the mid point to be around 1950,1950

so a "PERFECT" calibration would be something like:

1950,1950 3280,620 3280,3280 620,3280 620,620.

Of course, the touch screen isn't perfectly aligned with the LED so we need to calibrate, and this is also why the numbers from a different phone don't quite work right for you.
[8125, K-JAM, P4300, MDA Vario General] EricCartman:
hi again,

i got my replacement display-unit a few days ago (cost me 25,50€ on ebay, a pretty good deal, i guess) and just installed it into my wizard.

after booting up the calibration immediately worked, so, as i suspected, the display unit was the reason all along.

but that's not all, i want to share something else: when i first booted up with the new display unit, the colors on the display seemed somehow "wrong", as if the display was reduced to a lower amount of colors than it was supposed to have. my suspicion was confirmed when i loaded the waterfall picture that's by default in MyImages, it didn't look right at all.

i then remembered that such problems can occur on a pc when your screen is not correctly attached to your graphics card (maybe because your cat fell over the cable). this can happen when the connection to a single pin (or more than one) is not correctly established while the other pins work fine. this can result in the screen showing the usual images, but with strange colors.

i therefore dissassembled my wizard and checked all connections. i hadn't put the little plastic stripes over the connection cables where they are connected to at first, because i thought that those weren't really necessary if you got the connection right. but after checking all the connections, i made sure to put (as it should be) those little plastic stripes over the cables, securing the connection even more. after booting up, i sure got my screen working as it was supposed to.

so, finally, i thank you all for your help, i am very happy that i was able to repair my wizard, it now works perfectly again.

i did get myself a hermes some time ago, which now replaces my wizard, but hey, that really doesn't spoil the relief of having repaired the wizard. i now have to decide if i keep it as a replacement (in case something happens to my hermes) or sell it on ebay, now that it's working again.
[8125, K-JAM, P4300, MDA Vario General] grigi:
Ciao!

first -> srr my english is terrible

i have dimond 1 and a had same problem. After Hardreset system want calibrate display and calibrate display and calibrate display........

I try take down folie (screen protector) and everything is fine :)

Its my solutions
[Redmi Note 8 Questions & Answers] robert_b:
Hello,

I want to sell my Redmi Note 8 in my family. It is on the actual rom of Xiaomi.eu (20.9.3).

What should I do to delete all my personal data before?
[Redmi Note 8 Questions & Answers] devaponnadsm:
Just Factory Reset your Phone by going to Settings.
[LG G7 ThinQ  Questions & Answers] marchinho:
Hello, after updating my lg g7 from android9 20k to android 10 30b via LGUP clean installation, the stock LG Cam has stopped recording Video, the .mp4 file is created in the gallery, but it is corrupt and is not played by any player (stock, VLC, MX, BS).

The strange thing is that with the GCAM the videos are recorded and played correctly, so I don't think it's a hardware or codec problem.

Do you have any ideas? Maybe the cam in apk and the priv-app folder to share?

Thanks
[LG G7 ThinQ  Questions & Answers] HyperEscape:
Hello,

A potential new user trying to evaluate buying a G7 Thinq reading all the good reviews about the sound quality. Would appreciate if you can respond to the below to help making the purchase decision.

Queries

Is there any particular model to go for. As i have read only G710ULM supports wireless charging. But it is only available in 64GB/4GB specs. Are there any other models which support wireless charging , dual SIM, with higher storage space.

Does G710ULM support rooting . What is the last android version updated on it. Untill which Android version it is rootable. 8,9,10? (if it has received a Android 10 upgrade as yet). I know there are guides available on this forum, however wanted to know for quick info that whether it can be done successfully or not.

Does or has anyone tried installing Viper4Android or ARISE audio all mods on rooted G7, does it work successfully or faces any challenges. I know its more of a subject choice about the sound quality, but I have my experience and preference with these audio mods to tweak the sound just like the way I want.

Apart from battery life , are there any other gotcha's which i need to be aware of.

Thanks for the responses.
[LG G7 ThinQ  Questions & Answers] Ricky Almonte:
Hello

I hope my answer is of your help,

I have the variable 710ulm, I have it with root and currently in the evolution x 4.4 rom, if it has wireless loading, I only used android 8 and 9 stock with root but I saw some people who could root in android 10 stock, and I have not tried the viper4android because I don't feel the need to use it, well that's all I hope I've gotten you out of some doubts
[Samsung Galaxy S20 / S20+ / S20 Ultra Questions & ] ZephCr:
I got my unlocked s20+ a few months ago and mostly like it. It still says lte and not 5g, not sure if that's a big deal or not but would like to fix it if it is. I'm on AT&T.I also tend to get phone reboots every now and then. I still have my previous phone, the s9 plus, and never really had those issues. I used to root and flash Samsung quite a bit on the first 4ish generations (1,2,4,6) so if that's an option I might be down. If any one can steer me in the right direction I'd be much appreciative.