yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[LG V30 Guides, News, & Discussion] TheDannemand:
For those who are not rooted, it's almost certain that you can uninstall it with ADB shell, using the command:

pm uninstall -k --user 0 <package name>

I haven't installed it myself, so I don't know what the package name is. Use apps like App Inspector to find it. As previously pointed out, make a backup first, just in case.

The question is if Update center will just reinstall it. On my US998 Oreo it's still waiting for me to initiate the download, maybe thanks to Blokada, or maybe because I never accepted LG's App Update license prompts. On my US998 Pie it hasn't shown up yet, for whatever reason.

Now, the bigger question is what this thing does. Given that it has no description or user interface, and that LG marketing has made no effort to promote it, I am going to side with the conspiracy folks on this: It's probably something we DON'T want, which usually means designed to make rooting harder.

Since it is being pushed to all the LG phones affected by the recent cold boot vulnerability (CVE-2020-12753) I assume it is meant to address that. That vulnerability only affects boot sequence and Download mode, not the OS. And I don't see how this app can address that other than by patching abl, laf etc partitions. If so, freezing/uninstalling the app won't matter once the patching has been done.

I don't want to sound alarmist. In all likelihood this won't affect our ability to flash KDZs, and so we can still root as we please. But just in case, I am not going to install this one if I can avoid it. Particularly not on my Pie phone, which is still BL locked.

That's just me. I'm a precautionary guy who likes to build arks BEFORE the rain :laugh:
[LG V30 Guides, News, & Discussion] jptV30:
The package name is...

com.lge.android.lgsafeguard
[LG V30 Guides, News, & Discussion] TheDannemand:
Well that sounds about right :D
[LG V30 Guides, News, & Discussion] schwinn8:
Not on my phone. Compared to ChazzMatt's phone, I don't have most of those apps installed at all. The only one I have is LG Health (and then LG Thinq and LG TV Plus, which are for my LG TV). I wonder if "LG Account" may be what's loading it on your phones? I don't have that, and don't know if I removed it or what, but it's not there and neither is LGSafeGuard.
[LG V30 Guides, News, & Discussion] wellendowed:
the app also installs on my v30. I am using korean variant V300L. bootloader lock and not rooted
[Huawei P40 Pro Questions & Answers] S4drazam:
Hello everyone,

currently I only have an issue with one app. It's an arabic app for doing research in many books at once.

It's called maktaba islamiyya (المكتبة الإسلامية)

I can open the app and download the books. But when I try to search for a word in more than one book at once it crashes. Never had this issue on other devices.

Because I really need this app for my work I'd be very thankful if you could help me.
[Huawei P40 Pro Questions & Answers] kuwari316:
Try to clear the cache then try again.

If that doesn't work try to see if there's another version / place you can download the app from and try that version.

For me sometimes a different version of the same app works better
[Huawei P40 Pro Questions & Answers] S4drazam:
I tried clearing the cache and tried about ten different versions now but with the same issue...
[Touch Diamond, MDA Compact IV General] jblanz:
Dear all

I was wondering if anybody got OpenVPN to run on the D. I am trying to connect to a server at home via GPRS/3G using a tap device (bridging). I was trying version 2.1.0 of the OpenVPN port from ziggurat29. The Installation of the GUI and the openvpn client work fine. The GUI (ovpncmgr) starts up OK and also seems to start a tap device TAP1. When I try to start a VPN client with a config file that I tested on the desktop before (except for different path settings and settings for the managment interface), it takes some time (get the typical GSM noise in my PC's speaker... so there is traffic over the air) and then a new VPN tab is displayed on the GUI. However the connection does not show up in the list of VPN instances. In the VPN tab I cannot get the status of the connection etc. Also, I cannot get any logging to work (no log file is created). On the server side I am not getting anything at all. No packets reach the server.

I am running out of ideas what could be wrong. Could it be the connection via T-Mobile? I am able to ping the server from the D, so I thought this should not be a problem. I also tried different ports (1194 and 443). Same result.

If anybody has a clue what I need to do, I appreciated any help.

Here is my client config file:

After all the tap interface seems still be available and no IP is configured for it. What is really annoying is that I am not even getting a log file

jjb
[Touch Diamond, MDA Compact IV General] lepermessiah:
I'm having exactly the same problem..OpenVPN starts, but it doesn't show any instance...
[Touch Diamond, MDA Compact IV General] Marsian-CZ:
Hi there.

Do you use OpenVPN client with TF3D active??? I installed it and then I tried to run connection manager. But nothing happend. The manager seems not running. Maybe it's because of the TF3D. Any idea??? Thanks....
[Touch Diamond, MDA Compact IV General] mgrcasa:
Hi,

After many days (and night) trying to make this thing work, I finally managed to make it work.

This is how I setup my server and client:

DSL Box =======> Linksys WRT54G =======> Home PC as server (XP)

Public IP ethernet 192.168.1.1 ethernet 192.168.1.10

Address

Server Script:

proto tcp

port 443

dev tap

dev-node OpenVPN

tls-auth "C:\\Program Files\\OpenVPN\\config\\ta.key" 0

ca "C:\\Program Files\\OpenVPN\\config\\ca.crt"

cert "C:\\Program Files\\OpenVPN\\config\\server.crt"

key "C:\\Program Files\\OpenVPN\\config\\server.key"

dh "C:\\Program Files\\OpenVPN\\config\\dh1024.pem"

ifconfig-pool-persist ipp.txt

server-bridge 192.168.1.199 255.255.255.0 192.168.1.210 192.168.1.220

push “dhcp-option DNS 192.168.1.1”

keepalive 10 120

comp-lzo

cipher AES-256-CBC

max-clients 10

persist-key

persist-tun

keepalive 10 60

status openvpn-status.log

verb 3

Client script:

client

dev tap

proto tcp

#Here your server's Public address + listening port

remote xxxxxxx.homeip.net 443

nobind

resolv-retry infinite

persist-key

persist-tun

cipher AES-256-CBC

comp-lzo

ca "\\ca.crt"

cert "\\htc1.crt"

key "\\htc1.key"

ping 15

ping-restart 120

verb 0

redirect-gateway

route-method exe

route-delay 2

# This is French SFR proxy

http-proxy 195.115.25.129 8080

http-proxy-option AGENT "Vodafone/1.0/HTC_Diamond/1.37.163.4"

On the server I created a bridge between the ethernet connection (192.168.1.10) and the TAP device that I renamed 'OpenVPN'.

I then manually modified its TCP/IP address with the following:

IP address : 192.168.1.199

Netmask : 255.255.255.0

Gateway : 192.168.1.1 (the Linksys router)

Primary DNS Server : 192.168.1.1

Secondary DNS : your provider DNS will do.

On the client (Diamond):

After installing the software, certificates and keys I modified the TAP device giving it manually its IP address:

Start>>Parameters>>Connections>>WiFi>>Network Cards

IP Address : 192.168.1.210

Netmask : 255.255.255.0

Gateway : 192.168.1.1

If you have a router you need to forward port 443 to the bridge address (192.168.1.199).

Thats all folks. Hope it works for you too.
[Touch Diamond, MDA Compact IV General] samueltkc:
Ah... just go to 'Today' in Settings and disable the TF3D... click on the task bar!
[Android Head-Units] Kelynaw:
I've actually purchased a few of these over the years, mostly because they were very vague on this specific feature. Given many of these units are identical just rebranded copies it's hard to sort things out.

The following is based on countless hours searching the web and 4 or 5 personal purchases of these Android head units. If any of this is incorrect please tell me because I have been desperately searching for one due to BMWs incessant need to one off everything.

In my experience the bottom line is no. Android head units do not offer genuine sub support. Yes you can use the rear output and a line converter or run the signal into the high level inputs on your amp (if it has it) but there is still a very simple a basic problem. You still won't have the needed components and or firmware to properly run it. Specifically frequency control, crossover or even a 7 band eq on the unit. I only found one that offered that last and it was janky to say the least (more probably offer the eq now but still very subpar) assuming you can run v4a on the unit that may clear some up but that was written for head phones not a 4 or more speaker system.

Another point is most mainstream headunits, pioneer, Kenwood, alpine heck even boss have 4v rca preout and signal conditioners not to mention both high and low-pass crossovers.

Unfortunately to my knowledge these Chinese Android suppliers have really missed the ball. Yes they offer some cool features but car audio guy's spend many thousands of dollars on these systems and to be honest I have a avh-4500NEX in my 325xi and since it mirrors wirelessly as well as Android auto and car play wireless it provides excellent sound.

Major difference my NEX $1800.00 us brand new these Android's I've seen get spendy but mostly right around 150-400. But you get what you pay for.

The biggest bonus I found though was you can put them anywhere since they are mostly just and inch or two deep.

If I missed the mark please let me know and if you could send a link to where I can pick up a decent one. The I-Drive in my 535i is making a stereo upgrade next to impossible
[Android Head-Units] b1n4ry:
this is the honest **** i been scouring for... as a AV guy everyone keeps telling me go daisaita blah blah blah but everyone here seems to not have ears or know what they are talking about when it comes to sound... my original gut was to pick up a NEX but i got side tracked with Atoto and the rest because everyone talks out their ass about how amazing they are... with no clue about their soul purpose
[Android Head-Units] Kelynaw:
they do have

They have amazing abilities for instance the iDrive in my 525i is old and outdated and these Android HU are the only option and they are fully functional and compatible which no mainstream HU can claim that I'm aware of. But I'll deal with old and crappy and tap the harness for a signal for my amp before I'll downgrade on sound quality.

You can use an Android successfully IF you install an EQ and probably noise filter but there goes the saving you would have seen.
[Android Head-Units] juukeli:
Spdif out to dsp-amp is possible with Joying for example. SQ shouldn't be problem with it.
[Android Head-Units] Bob_Sanders:
I've had pioneer, Kenwood, Alpine, Blaupunkt and a few others and you haven't missed the mark at all. The audio quality on these Chinese head units is just not comparable and the RCA output voltages (1.4 volts) are standards from 15 or 20 years ago. And yes... they are NOT true sub outputs.

Now having said that, it doesn't mean that you can't bring the audio quality up to par. It does however require some extra money and extra components. I don't run Dasaita's sub outputs but rather have an active electronic crossover which can generate a sub output and I run that plus the Dasaita's front/rear outputs through an AXXESS dsp sound processor before the signals go into the amps.

It's certainly a bit of extra money spent on top of it all, but IMO, worth it because these Android head units beat out the traditional Kenwood's and pioneer's in just about every other respect.

It WOULD be nice however if these Chinese manufacturers started paying a bit more attention to audio quality at the end of the day.
[Android Head-Units] b1n4ry:
except that axxess unit costs more than the 4/64gb headunit itself... USA MSRP: $422.00 USD
[Android Head-Units] Bob_Sanders:
HUH??

$279 on ebay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Axxess-AX-...241633?hash=item445ecc93e1:g:194AAOSwUKRfRo-R

My new Dasaita cost $586

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001197637149.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.554d4c4duJ2EgH
[Android Head-Units] b1n4ry:
o.O

DSP

https://axxessinterfaces.com/product/AXDSP-X

unit i was looking at

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001244806859.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.2.51e67ea7IZbacK

Dash Kit

https://www.scosche.com/2003-to-2007-honda-accord-integrated-touchscreen-control-colution-dash-kit
[Android Head-Units] b1n4ry:
If you are fine with sub par audio Then your opinion doesn't matter

The #1 purpose above all the bull**** you rambled on about is SOUND that's the purpose of an aftermarket head unit... Regardless of additional features
[Android Head-Units] Bob_Sanders:
It's already been stated that audio quality is not the best. It's also been made clear that for some extra bucks and a few more components you CAN have your cake and eat it too. Now if you wish not to go that far then why are you here? Go to the pioneer forums.

As for the purpose of an aftermarket head unit.... yesteryear it WAS all about sound. Now it's more about central information centers. All kinds of information at your fingertips... and these Chinese units just beat the crap out of ANY of the traditional units as general information centers. Try hard as you can to make a traditional head unit do something to this level of detail and customization:

View attachment 5088213

Now.. do I have to put some extra money in making the sound better? Yup, sure do, but to my eyes it's worth it.
[Android Head-Units] juukeli:
I´m running my Joying still from speaker out to Match M5DSP. SQ is even now better than with stock HU (PSA MyWay) that I used to feed M5DSP. I don´t hear any problems and I´ve been hifi-guy nearly 30 years.
[Android Head-Units] CaliBurr:
Why is it not a true subwoofer output? I have a 1500w rms amp connected to the green subwoofer output and a dayon max mx12 and its clear as day. My only problem is my hengcheng which is like a teyes c3 clone only has front rca output and I want to leave my front speakers on the tda7851 built in amplifier and connect my rear speakers to a 200w amp in the back. But if I use the front rca out I will loose fader control cuz the system will think my rears are front speakers. What about the output voltage? I don't have a line out converter and everything sounds fine.
[Android Head-Units] marchnz:
They are mostly the same but not all the same, I.e. MTCD with MCU mod sub out.

Yes, line level is 1.5-2v RMS not 4v as car audio mostly is.

Your post doesn't list "Android units" so cant tell what your test units were.
[Android Head-Units] CaliBurr:
Why is it not a true subwoofer output? I have a 1500w rms amp connected to the green subwoofer output and a dayon max mx12 and its clear as day. My only problem is my hengcheng which is like a teyes c3 clone

Which one is
[Android Head-Units] gottahavit:
Excuse my ignorance, I don't do high end stereo builds for cars(home theater yes).

Just curious, if you're trying to put out that kind of wattage and care that much about crystal sound, why aren't you using spdif(optical or coax) to output digital from your stereo regardless of brand. Then your Head unit is for the features/apps and screen and your high end equip is for signal processing?
[Android Head-Units] CaliBurr:
Because the optical is 5.1 so a DAC would be mono output to each speaker, and there isn't a digital rca spdif or optical that is stereo. I thought about doing that and just using y cables but not with it really the signal wouldn't be any better just less chance of interference and I have none. An amp with optical starts around 1k unless you go aliexpress or something. My amp topsolidgear 1600w 1 ohm stable as tested by wiliston audio on YouTube is $150. My Dayton MX12-22 12" subwoofer was $140. I have it running 600w @ 4 ohm and its already crazy. After I break it in I may switch to 1 ohm and get even louder. My speakers are coaxial ds18 3 way black diamonds ($39) and my rear speakers are component ds18 6.5 with 3.5" bullet tweeters with built in crossover ($70) so it's a budget system. But it sounds great. All my audio is high resolution lossless flac files and the dsp does a great job. The 32 band equalizer let's me adjust subwoofer frequency and speaker frequency so I can turn my speakers off between 30_whatever hertz and set my sub anywhere from 30_70 hz range. It also has time delay and surround function and turns my amp on and off with a trigger wire amongst some other settings I haven't figured out yet.
[Android Head-Units] CaliBurr:
Can't figure out what bass enhancement does. Bass filter is to filter bass from speakers and surround is to adjust timing.
[Android Head-Units] CaliBurr:
Here is a pic.
[Android Head-Units] gottahavit:
"there isn't a digital rca spdif or optical that is stereo"

not sure I understand this statement? Digital is stream is whatever is on it the stream. I send stereo over optical all the time in home theater(well I used too, it's OLD now ;-) Yes technically each speaker would be mono(it's channel) maybe I'm missing something.

I understand your point on cost, but if you already have the amp you want with solid RCA then just use a 50 dollar 4.1 or 5.1 DAC to RCA

It will skip the "crappy" DAC in the the HU and avoid interference(sorry but from what I read they ALL have it). I know both mine do.

The only reason I can think it will still be bad is if they are still doing DAC then reversing it for the optical. Again I have not tested the optical on the one I have with it as my stock system doesn't do spdif or even RCA.
[Android Head-Units] gottahavit:
Yeah I'm with you on this one. I assume it was only used with sub out RCA as neither my joying or IDoing have any affect when changing this, but if you say it doesn't work with sub out then I have no idea.
[Android Head-Units] CaliBurr:
Yeah, I think the dac happens before the optical or spdif out but I could be wrong. Those $50 units get mixed reviews. That was my original plan though. I have been enjoying some 5.1 music though, I don't see how the optical would change much if I just convert the signal back to stereo with a y adapter. I would have 5 different l/r rcas that are actually mono..

. I don't know how I would amplify that unless I used a 6 channel amp. But everything sounds great... so you or another poster was saying the signal is 1.5 v instead of 4v? Isn't a lower signal less distortion as long as your amp recognizes it? They have high to low signal converters but not sure about low to high... I was thinking about splicing the rear amplified signal from left and right speakers 4 wires into a high to low line converter to get rca to go into my rear amp so I can keep fader control. Those things are only like $20.
[Android Head-Units] ziddey:
Have you confirmed this?? What model? I have an fyt uis7862 unit (navifly) and the digital output is definitely standard pcm stereo. I'm currently using a cheap household dac (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MPF4F68/) while I wait for my line driver to arrive so I can use the sub-out. While the output is still a bit low (amp gain maxed out), it's definitely passable.

Off topic, but is the eq busted for all variants (must be a software thing then?)? If I set a cutoff for the front/rear, it seems to apply to the sub-out as well. Kind of useless then..
[Android Head-Units] gottahavit:
ok so not sure what I did different than the last 10X, but today long drive in the corvette with stock bose system my I tested this and other settings again on my joying and WOW it not only kicked in, but kicked in big time. Setting this to 75% really kicked in my from subs.
[Android Head-Units] CaliBurr:
I am using a Hengcheng s9 pro https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001723766214.html

Yes, if you plug it into a DAC like this you will get L and right audio, but not sure if it is going to give me front or rear signal. The RCA out I have is FRONT. No way to know without trying...

My eq cutoff works. I have my sub at 30-40hz and my front speakers dont play below 40hz..
[Android Head-Units] gottahavit:
Oh that's interesting, I was thinking if I tried this I'd get a 4 or 4.1 channel DAC, but if it's just PCM stereo on the optical then no point, and just go with the stereo out. I may get a cheap amp and this DAC and try to augment the bose system in the corvette.

Right now the only amp in the car are sub amps on mini subs in each door. putting a DAC and amp between the HU and the Bose system may create a mess, but could be interesting to try. Harder to find room for it than to wire it up to test.
[Android Head-Units] CaliBurr:
I think I will use a line out converter to convert the amplified signal to the rear because on the diagram it doesn't show that a rear AUX can be added. Not to mention it looks like the front AUX is an amplified signal... hmm....
[Android Head-Units] ziddey:
@CaliBurr looking at the pictures of your model, it looks like a fyt uis7862? If so, I have the same one, but seemingly the older version without the fan.

If so, it might come with a plug for rear outputs? I don't see it in the picture, but mine came with a plug that has 2 canbus leads + rl/rr out

edit: just looked at the diagram you included. C3/C4. Those are pre-outs, but assumedly very low voltage if it's like the front ones, and would likely benefit from a line driver: https://www.amazon.com/Peripheral-PAC-LD10-Driver-Booster/dp/B003LWV77Y

The high level speaker outputs are on "G: main power cord" not included in your diagram.

I just got mine today, and am now using the sub-out with great results. Wish I adjusted the gain on it before buttoning the dash back up. Not sure what the initial setting is, but it's definitely a little excessive (no distortion though seemingly so it's fine).
[Android Head-Units] CaliBurr:
It looks like it would have to go into port C which is ASL_OUT and ASR_OUT which I believe is occupied by the amplified signal going into my car's original factory CANBUS. I assume the "A" in ASL_OUT stands for amplified signal line, but on the "A" port there is no ASL_OUT only AUX_FL OUT so I am wondering how they are getting an AUX OUT FRONT R+L if the only signal is amplified by the internal amplifier. That RCA worked when I plugged it into my monoblock, but now I am using the green subwoofer out with a Y cable.
[Android Head-Units] ziddey:
The speaker level outputs are all on the G port. The rear outs on C are just pre-outs, at least on my model, which looks to be the same as yours
[Android Head-Units] CaliBurr:
nice. That should work then, if I can find that connector. What are the other wires other than the AUX L and R?
[Android Head-Units] CaliBurr:
I wonder if it will no longer be able to control DSP timing from rear speakers if I do this since they will essentially be on one channel instead of 2. I'm leaving the front amplified with the amp in the HU, I just have this old class AB amp I might as well hook up. I'm suprised yours has no fan. Is it the 8 core processor?
[Android Head-Units] CaliBurr:
@ziddey Why are you using a line driver? I have my gain at less than halfway and my subwoofer turned all the way up on the head unit and I start clipping at VOL 20. Of course my dual 2 ohm sub is only wired for 4 ohms and seeing 600w if that. I will probably wire it for 1 ohm and max gain out without clipping. But turn your subwoofer enhancement up rather than gain that way it's all done through the dsp, no? I have my gain set so I can crank my remote control knob on my sub without clipping at a volume of 20. And the eq is for sure working on front and rear speaker cutoff.