yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Android Head-Units] whitewolf8111:
Are you talking about just the CanBus tab under factory settings? Or do you want my settings for all the tabs under factory settings?

For just the CanBus tab, unfortunately, none of those will work for our units as we are on I-Bus for our BMW's.

You must leave this set to "none" in order for the steering wheel controls to work. Anything else, they won't work.
[Android Head-Units] jrobbom5:
Yes, just the CanBus tab. I have it set to none at the moment, because I could not get any other setting to work, and you've just explained why :) Thanks! :)
[Android Head-Units] jrobbom5:
OK, So I just did a little testing re CPU usage and temperature. My head unit is a Dasaita PX6/MTCE, and I was using the SystemPanel2 app to take measurements. I had the system playing music on Poweramp, with Google Maps running in the background along with sundry other apps (Tasker, Viper, iBus App etc). After about 20 minutes, CPU usage was minimal (between 0 and 25%), system temps stable at around 55C (Ambient 17C, so 38C above ambient). Was monitoring App CPU usage, and iBus App did not even show up on the list. So that was all as expected really. I will do another test later with iBus App running in the foreground showing continuous OBC data and will let you know my results
[Android Head-Units] whitewolf8111:
Thanks for checking that for me. That's good, you don't seem to have the issue. For me, it only happened when some certain setting was enabled. Otherwise it had normal CPU usage. I'm pretty sure it had to do with the I-Bus App, as I could kill the app and usage would drop back to normal. Or I could wipe the settings back to default and usage would be normal until I went through and setup my I-Bus app settings again.

Hopefully, your PX6 doesn't get this bug, or you may not have that particular setting enabled. I've tried going through and ticking one setting at a time, then restart the unit, observe the usage, then come out of sleep, observe the usage again, then enable the next option and repeat it all over again for each option... Very tedious. At first it seemed like it was the "Units" conversion (changing everything to USA; Miles, Gallons, HP etc.) But, after redoing it all again, the "Units" conversion seems to work okay now (though, I think there is one or two settings I didn't change...)

I figured out what wire it is I have disconnected from my CanBus box, it just has to do with the "Consumer Shutdown" or "VA" as can be seen in the Wiki HERE. I have the ACC power to the unit wired up with a SPDT switch to be able to choose between the VA wiring and the normal switched ignition power, and until they fix some of the issues with it, I've just been running it normal switched power. But they are working a new solution, and maybe in the next release(???). And I was wrong on the color of the wire, I don't know where I got red, but it's a brown/black wire and is "Key 2" for aftermarket steering wheel controls (add on type), and needs to be removed when running in VA mode, to "Avoid app zapping"(?!!lol). You could temporarily remove it and see if it helps with any SWC problems. I don't have or plan to have any aftermarket add in SWC's, so I just left that one unplugged to be able to switch back and forth easily with the flick of a switch and a change in the I-Bus setting.

Just remember for SWC's to work, that both the SWC options in the I-Bus app, "Automatic wheel button control" and "PX6/PX5/PX3 device", under "Other", need to be enabled; Factory settings CanBus set to "None"; and I can't remember if this one mattered or not but, in Factory Settings, Other, "Steering wheel keys assignment" set to "SWC Key".
[Android Head-Units] jrobbom5:
Thanks very much for the info [MENTION=5022255]whitewolf8111[/MENTION], I will check out that wire. As them moment, I don't use the iBus app for my SWC, because when I do, adjusting the volume via the SWC goes up in increments of 2. So I am using the CanBus Box only for SWC buttons. If you are using iBus App for SWC, then why do you need the CanBus box at all?

BTW, I have all of the SWC buttons working .... sort of. Volume buttons work but they adjust the volume of both the DSP amp and the head unit. Next/Prev track buttons work. I have the mode button remapped via Hal9K to go to the Home screen. and I have the Telephone button remammped to Google Assistant, also via Hal9k. This is OK, but I would really like to get the volume buttons fixed so that they only adjust the radio (maybe snipping the brown/black wire will fix that), and most of all, I would love to get Long Press / Double Press functionality going. I used to be able to do this with the Intravee II that I previously had installed, and it's a real bummer to have lost this functionality.

Thanks again for the info. I will cut the suggested wire and let you know how I go. :)
[Android Head-Units] whitewolf8111:
There's no need to cut the wire, just take a razor blade and carefully lift up the little locking tab on the connector, and slide the wire out, and cover it with some heatshrink or electrical tape. That way, if for some weird reason you need it, it's ready to go rather easily.

I remember every now and then, I would get the volume jump by 2, but I always thought it had something to do with some one of the running apps versions... It works fine for me now so I'm not sure what was the culprit.

I doubt we will get long press/ double press anytime soon, but that would be nice. Something I've always wanted too. I was able to get that working with a remote control and some Tasker magic, but I would prefer to not use Tasker. It would be great to get some SWC/remote tweaking in the I-Bus app, as I think a lot could be done through the I-Bus, like long press/double press... I've asked for the I-Bus team many times for this, but they say the problem is how cancel the stock command for the requested one. This was able to be done with mtce-utils and Xposed, so perhaps this could be done with a Magisk module plugin, made for, and by the I-Bus app team; wink wink ;);), nudge nudge, know what I mean?!! [MENTION=8411750]blue_racer[/MENTION]
[Android Head-Units] jrobbom5:
Thanks [MENTION=5022255]whitewolf8111[/MENTION]. The bit that I don't get though is this: If you are using the iBus App to look after SWC functionality, then why do you need the CanBus Box at all? And if the CanBus Box is disconnected, then there is no point is disconnecting the brown/black wire. The only reason I can think of off the top of my head for using the CanBus Box is for the reversing signal which may work on your car. My car is a 1999 model and the reversing signal is not exposed to the bus, so I have a wire hooked up to the reversing lamp
[Android Head-Units] whitewolf8111:
Yes, the reverse signal is the only thing I can think of that it's useful for too. And you could just wire up the head unit's reverse wire, then you should be able to just unplug the CanBus box. Thankfully, the I-Bus app picks up all the other "CanBus" functions.

Interesting that your 99' can't send the reverse signal over CanBus. One thing that you could try to make sure is, I do know that under Factory Settings, Other, "Prohibit Reverse" had to be enabled for it read the reverse signal and switch over to bring up the rear view camera.
[Android Head-Units] jrobbom5:
Thanks mate. My car didn't come with a reverse camera as standard, but I installed the OEM kit myself. I had to wire up the reverse signal from the reversing light to get the OEM kit to work as well. The E39 underwent some major updates in 2000/2001 so I guess this was one of them. I remember how much of a pain installing the OEM kit was, specifically running the wiring through the loom to the trunk lid. So when I installed the reverse camera that came with the head unit, I kept all of the OEM-camera wiring, but I cut the connectors off the ends and soldered on the connectors from the new kit (video, power), which was much easier :) I tried to use it without the reverse signal but it didn't work, but it was simple to hook up to the wire that I had installed for the OEM camera.

If convenient, could you try something for me please? Could you disconnect your CanBus Box , and see if your SWC volume control buttons behave normally? No problems if this is not convenient though :) Since it is an obvious difference between our 2 systems, I'm wondering if that could be related to my SWC Volume problems. Either way, thanks very much for all of your help
[Android Head-Units] danny_zupa:
Can anyone help me?

I have an e39 with an Erisin android headunit, Rockchip RK3066m / Android 4.4. I has an external canbus decoder, and I remember that in factory settings, it was set to Canbus: None.

Steering wheel buttons were working fine, until one morning this week when I observed that they've stopped. Nothing worked, I've reset the unit, pulled out the decoder, nothing.

Unfortunately, steering wheel settings from ibus app don't help me.

What could it be?
[Android Head-Units] jrobbom5:
So, to summarise:

a) Neither the headunit (via the canbus box) or the ibus app (via the resler interface) is able to see the SWC packets on the ibus, and

b) This just started happening all of a sudden.

Based on those 2 things, my guess is that there is a hardware fault with the car, possibly with the steering wheel itself, or somewhere further down the chain (Not sure which module in the car looks after SWC buttons, maybe KOMBI or GM3).

There is a program called NavCoder which you can install onto your laptop (it's shareware, you should be able to do what you need for free) , and plug your laptop into the resler interface, and that will let you see the messages on the iBus. That will take the head unit/Canbus Box/ibus app out of the equation, and you will be able to determine pretty quickly if the SWC messages are being sent on the ibus. If they aren't, then definately a hardware fault.
[Android Head-Units] danny_zupa:
Hi, thank you for the response.

Let me come with additional info.

I checked all the fuses, everything was fine.

When I turn on SWC from ibus app, volume control works from the steering wheel, but apparently not the main volume. It is something like a media volume, which actually doesn't change the main unit volume. But the SWC volume buttons work. Not the other buttons though.

My first impression is that this is a software issue, I remember uninstalling PC Radio a day before, because it always auto started. I don't know if I uninstalled anything else (important) that could have stopped the canbus decoder to work. So maybe reinstall android? (Malaysk)
[Android Head-Units] Drunkenninja:
[MENTION=8411750]blue_racer[/MENTION] How should we be setting the CANBUS in Factory Settings? Using Resler IBUS USB interface.

I currently have it set to None, but there are also BMW Union and BMW Electronic settings, should I be using one of these, or keep it as None?
[Android Head-Units] blue_racer:
We are able to catch the telegram of the SWC and to set any function we are able to for it. BUT we are unable to prevent the origin function for it. As I know only firmware like Hal9k (v3 or v4 up on 4.0.2) is able to replace key codes, but also only by standard android functions.

Please set it back to "None" since ot won't work on all other setups in our BMW E38/E39/E46/E53/.. ;)
[Android Head-Units] blue_racer:
...

I know that was the main problem was to prevent the original function of the key, but that's why I was thinking it could be done if you all made a Magisk module plugin. I'm not that familiar with Magisk but I know that you can do many great things with it, and I think would be a good answer to inhibit the original SWC functions and worthy of investigating it more.

And to continue our Messenger conversation, I'd still love it if you could post your pic (or don't mind me posting the pic) of your heatsink. I know it's only an idea and a drawing, but perhaps someone out there would be willing to machine them or build upon the design, or maybe get other people to think of another way. I know there other threads out there about cooling android head units, but not many of them are like our units with the DVD players stuffed in a single din housing. And although I really don't use my DVD/CD player very much, it's still something I just can't let go of yet :silly: Until they release a full screen unit like THIS, but with some buttons!! Gotta have my buttons still lol. Like THIS one but for our E39's.

...

Not sure Magisk will work without root, so I gues it's the best way to use e.g. Hal9k to replace keycodes ;)

And find my draft attached. I guess this will be to expensive.

Also I see that using those fans in my position (and moving the big sticker at the top of the radio, closing the cooling opening it the cover) plus the "air guiding block" (grey) will reduce the CPU temp to 35..45°C in my case. :cool:
[Android Head-Units] whitewolf8111:
If you're running Hal9k ROM, then you are rooted AND already have Magisk installed. Plus the replace keycodes within the Hal9k ROM are insufficient and don't give enough options at all.

Thanks for uploading the pics :good: What are your temps when the heater is running? That seems to be the worst time for me, as that radio compartment heats up a lot.

Be careful of those sharp edges and those little pieces of metal (kind of looks like some on the circuit board in that one pic) that could get into something somewhere and short something out....
[Android Head-Units] jrobbom5:
Thanks very much [MENTION=5022255]whitewolf8111[/MENTION], I really appreciate you taking the time to test that for me. That leaves me scratching my head though, I really don't know why mine behaves differently to yours. For now, I will just stick with using the Canbus Box to handle SWC controls.

In other news, I just finished building a sealed subwoofer enclosure for my car using a single Pioneer 12 inch shallow mount driver. I angled the back of the enclosure at 21 degrees so that it sits up snug against the back seat (it's mounted in the rear of the boot (or trunk)). This setup has replaced the nokia sub that comes with the option #677 Top HiFi system. The difference is huge, you can feel the bass through the whole car. The whole system sounds fantastic now, I'm really happy with it.
[Android Head-Units] whitewolf8111:
No problem :good: That is weird for sure... Do you have to keep your CanBus box installed or they wont work at all?

Got any pictures of the sub install? I've been thinking about one myself. I'd love to do the M Audio package but they hard to find and expensive.

Did you add an amp too or where you able to use the factory amp?
[Android Head-Units] jrobbom5:
So i've mentioned in this thread previously how I have issues with my volume control, it increases the volume on both the radio and the DSP amp at the same time. So today, I tried a little experiment. I disconnected my Canbus Box, and then turned on the ignition and let the head unit boot up and waited until the iBus app had started the amplifer. Then, I unplugged the USB to the Resler interface. As expected, none of the other SWC buttons work, but strangely, the Volume buttons DO continue to work, and they adjust the volume of the amp directly. I had previously assumed that it was the iBus app that was enabling this, but that's wrong as with the Resler interface disconnected, the iBus app is effectively disabled. So now I'm stumped. I just don't understand why the volume control works as normal with everything unplugged. The only think I can think to do now is to start going through of he modules on the iBus with NCSExpert and see if I can find any related options that might somehow be enabling this behaviour. If anyone else has other suggestions as to what I might try to get to the bottom of this, they'd be very much appreciated.
[Android Head-Units] whitewolf8111:
Where did your sub pictures go? I was just coming in to tell you it's lookin good!

The volume on these headunits is controlled by the MCU. It's unique and is different than any of the other buttons. And ( [MENTION=8411750]blue_racer[/MENTION] please correct me if I'm wrong ) the Resler and I-Bus app can control the factory amp gain/volume, with a fixed MCU volume and only adjusting the amp, if using the Fixed radio volume. And if not using the fixed volume, I'm pretty sure it's just the headunit's MCU controlled volume that is being used.

I rebooted my headunit today, and the I-Bus App had a large update, actually looks like 2 updates? There is a fix for the 2 step SWC volume, and a "Bugfix for fixed DSP volume", which I was excited to see a fix for where the volume rapidly bounces up and down with the Fixed radio volume. Both of these fix's worked for me. I can now use the fixed volume option when in the car, but if I'm on the bench, it will still do the volume bouncing. When you enable the fixed volume, the MCU volume will stay fixed at the volume you had it set to at the time you enable the fixed volume option, so you might need to play around with it to get your MCU volume at a good level.

Try your volume issues with the new version and see if they still persist. You may need to completely reboot your headunit to get the updates show up.

If your issues do still persist, my guess is that you have an option enabled somewhere that shouldn't be, either within the I-Bus app, within FCC or within the ROM itself.

I would recommend to make a backup of your settings for both FCC and I-Bus app (unfortunately there is no backup option for the ROM), then reset the settings to default for both apps, by going to the headunits settings > apps > select FCC or I-Bus > storage > clear storage/data; doing only one app at a time, and then test the volume with default settings, to isolate the culprit. This should ensure that every option in the app gets reset to like the day it was first installed.

If you still have the problem with both apps reset to defaults, then it might be an option within the ROM somewhere.
[Android Head-Units] Aidzer0:
Hey folks, new to the forum, I just stumbled upon this thread and had to ask. With the ibus app, I have comfort blink on, and for some reason when the comfort blink is triggered, and my lights are on, the cluster lights dim until comfort blink completes its blink cycle. Anyone else experiencing this?

Before the latest ibus app update, this never happened.

I have a Xtrons px5, stock firmware, latest ibus app and the resler interface. Thanks!!
[Android Head-Units] bogdan wst:
The same thing happens to me some times. On many versions of i-bus app and on stock and hal9k android 9 software on my px6 xtrons PQ7939BIP.

Trimis de pe al meu SM-G950F folosind Tapatalk
[Android Head-Units] Aidzer0:
Interesting, you got the e46? Do you know the LCM you have? I changed my LCM recently to the later model for rain/light sensor capabilities and it started happening. I don’t know if that’s the actual reason. But I also updated at roughly the same time.
[Android Head-Units] bogdan wst:
I have an e39 with LCM IV.

Trimis de pe al meu SM-G950F folosind Tapatalk
[Android Head-Units] whitewolf8111:
Hmmm, I haven't played around with any of the comfort blink or light stuff in a while. I will have to give a go and see if I have the same problems. I have upgraded my LCM to IV also, haven't done the auto headlights yet though.

I do notice that this latest version of I-Bus App, doesn't run as well as the last version, with things like DSP not kicking on every time and have to manually do it.

Hopefully [MENTION=8411750]blue_racer[/MENTION] will drop by with some answers. I'll send him a nudge on facebook.
[Android Head-Units] Aidzer0:
Yeah I’ve noticed that too. I also have deep obd for bmw working side by side with ibus app, and after updating both apps, both seem to be giving issues.

Like deep obd doesn’t launch automatically and connect to the obd automatically. Also the settings don’t save after closing the app. Other weird things too.
[Android Head-Units] bogdan wst:
Uninstall the deepobd app and than the settings will be saved. The same thing happened to me and that was the solution.

Trimis de pe al meu SM-G950F folosind Tapatalk
[Android Head-Units] Aidzer0:
Oh, thanks! I’ll try that.

EDIT: did this yesterday and it helped, today I flashed hal9k’s android 9, it’s amazing, it’s actually a lot more efficient and quick, also apps don’t close down when multitasking. The only issue is that I lost the ability to use zlink for CarPlay with the ep01 dongle on Xtrons.

With ibus app, I agree hal9k’s Android is the way to go, works way better with deep obd.
[Android Head-Units] jrobbom5:
Now that the problems with iBus App selecting and remembering the CD Input on the DSP Amp have been fixed. I completely rewired my headunit over the weekend. I was able to rip out the 6 metre cable that came with the head unit. I attached an AtoD converter to the back of the headunit, and I now run the RCA outputs for front L and R channels directly into that, and then I run a single digital coax connection to the back of the car which plugs into the CD input on the amp. I've also installed a ribbon cable to run the length of the car just for a couple of low-level signals (ie. iBus connection, Amp Remote and Reverse Signal). I also ran a 6m RCA cable to the boot (trunk) as well for the subwoofer, but I can't use this yet, see below.

So, by eliminating the speaker level outputs from the head unit and using a digital audio signal to the amp, I have completely eliminated any and all noise issues that I was having. The whole setup sounds awesome, I am really happy with the result.

So, the only issue that I have left now is that when I use the volume control on the steering wheel, it increases the volume on both the head unit and the DSP amp. However, at this point, I don't believe this has anything to do with iBus App, but with the steering wheel itself (I have a 1999 M5 and I installed a wheel from a 2004 M3), I suspect that there is a coding issue but I haven't checked yet. That in itself is not too big an issue, except that I can't use the RCA output of the headunit to control the sub, as the Amp Volume and HeadUnit Volume get out of sync. I have solved this for the time being by tapping into the subwoofer outputs from the DSP amp, running them through a Line Level Converter, and then into my subwoofer amplifier. This solves the issue completely, even if it is less than ideal. So all in all, I am very happy with how everything has turned out.

Also, finally finished my sub install and customised the skin on my head unit, pics attached

[IMG="Sub Install"]http://carplaza.org/MyPhotos/SubInstall.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG="HeadUnit Skin"]http://carplaza.org/MyPhotos/20200707212016.jpg[/IMG]
[Android Head-Units] whitewolf8111:
Nice! Looks good! :good:

Yeah, speaker level inputs are never good for sound quality.

And there is a good chance that you have some coding issue with your steering wheel upgrade. When I did my LCM III to LCM IV upgrade, even though I had changed all the options over, I had to actually code the unit to the car so that the GM knew that it was an updated LCM. Otherwise the GM would just keep reading it as the LCM III. So maybe something similar or an option that needs to be changed. I plan on doing steering wheel upgrade in the near future too. There are some pretty nice re-wrapped steering wheels on ebay that I've been eyeing, unless anyone else knows of a better source for them?
[Android Head-Units] jrobbom5:
Has anyone been using the "Fixed Radio Volume" option now that it has been fixed. I tried it for a day, and it works as intended, however my only gripe is that the volume goes up in increments of 5, which effectively means that you only have 18 different volume levels from 0 to full volume. Personally, I find that to be too much, I can't really find the volume level that I want. It would be better if the increment was 3, which would give 30 levels, like the aftermarket head units do. I have gone back to turnng this option off just so that I can have a finer adjustment of the volume