yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Android Head-Units] whitewolf8111:
Yes, I tried it out for a few. But went back to normal as I seemed to have random volume levels after wake.. Sometimes where really loud and sometime really quiet.

One thing I noticed that you could try is when you enable the Fixed Radio Volume, the head units volume will remain at the same level as when you enable the option. So if you happen to have your head unit volume at @ 20 when you enable Fixed Radio Volume, it will stay there while it adjusts only the DSP volume. So that in turn would make for the minimum sound level, to still be rather loud and each step after that much louder. So disable the Fixed Radio Volume, set your head unit volume to something like 5 to 10, then enable the Fixed Radio Volume, and then the steps between adjustments should be much less drastic.
[Android Head-Units] jrobbom5:
Thanks for the suggestion :) I did try something similar. On my head unit, the initial head unit volume is set in the Factory Settings -> Other. It can also be set by FCC, however with the "Fixed Radio Volume" option turned on, iBus locks the volume before FCC gets to it, and so it always reverts back to what has been set in the factory settings. No big deal, just pointing out the differences between the head units.

I still have some noise coming from the DSP amp. It's no-where near what it was, and it is only audible at the very top of the DSP volume range (from about 70 out of 87 onwards). And so to keep the output noise free, I set the head unit volume to 30, and then only use the DSP volume from 0 to 70, and so I am limited to just 15 volume levels!

It's no big deal of course, I'm happy with the way that I have it set up. The sound quality I have now is so far ahead from where I first installed the head unit, it sounds fantastic. Switching to digital reduced the noise by a factor of 10 or more, and the custom subwoofer makes the bass so clean and sharp, it's just awesome! I had a friend who is very fussy about sound come over and listen the other day, and he was genuinely impressed.

So, next step (and this will be a while yet) will be to replace the DSP amp, and replace it with an aftermarket amp and crossovers/DSP unit, and then replace the 10 drivers. But that's a lot of money to spend for what will amount to a very small improvement.
[Android Head-Units] whitewolf8111:
Yes, mine has the same option too but that is only for what volume you want the unit to try to be at after wake... Which might change the volume you had set before enabling the Fixed Radio Volume. But I noticed if I set the head unit's volume with the volume knob, to a lower number before enabling the Fixed Radio Volume, the sound was much better and had a good range of adjustment. If you are setting your head unit volume to 30 (Pretty sure that's max volume) before enabling the Fixed Radio Volume, that is way too high and you will for sure get distortion and probably some noise, and the volume adjustment will be very high increments.

For me, a good range was to set the head unit volume with the volume knob to about 8 to 12 max, then enable the Fixed Radio Volume, and the volume adjustment should be much smoother, and sound better. It did for me.
[Android Head-Units] jrobbom5:
Sorry, I haven't made myself very clear here. If I set the radio volume to 1 (ie minimum but not off), then I will get noise on the output when I increase the DSP amp volume above 70 with no music playing. If I set the head unit volume to 30, and then set the DSP amp volume to half way (say 45 out of 87), then I get no noise at all. So that tells me that it is the factory amp and or wiring that is causing the noise, not the head unit.

Anyway, like I said, I am really happy with how the whole things sounds now. I only raised the issue of the volume incrementing by 5 as an observation, and perhaps something that could be modified in future, but it's not really a problem for me as it is. :)
[Android Head-Units] Drunkenninja:
I think if you adjust your DSP level, it accomodates the change, but you have to tinker with your start DSP level I think.
[Android Head-Units] nutttr:
So... I have just got the licence for DSP for ibus, my headunit is from Owtosin and uses the blue 12 pin plug to feed "tape input" from the speaker output and uses (or should) the bus to control DSP, etc from factory. Unfortunately it doesn't seem to recognise steering wheel controls or turn the amp on... Hence why I got the DSP licence.

Unfortunately the ibus app doesn't have a "source" for tape... Can this be added to the app as that's an analogue input from the front of the car up to the boot...
[Android Head-Units] nutttr:
Further to this the seller believes the canbus unit I have is wrong, that's why it's not getting the amp to kick in.

I'm not sure of the mechanism here, but I know tape output in the original blue 12 pin plug should be an input selectable on the DSP, so that's definitely something that could work in future for simplified installs!

Currently using just the 12pin plug I get no audio when using the iBus DSP add on, I can definitely change the volume, etc because I can hear the hiss increase from the speakers, but still no actual sound :(

[Edit - right, tonight I hooked up the old headunit in the boot to power and canbus and when I put a tape in it it all works!

It'd be great if the iBus app had a source selection for Tape as that would solve most people's problem with the 12 pin plugs as you can just run speaker level outputs to the boot from that plug!

Otherwise supposedly the canbus adapator coming will hopefully solve the issue...]
[Android Head-Units] whitewolf8111:
What car is this in? In our E39's, the ONLY things the CanBus box does is tell the unit when the lights are on and when the car is in reverse. The main reason for the I-Bus App and Resler interface is to turn the DSP amp on (and some other cool features too!). The amp requires the "on" signal to be sent on the I-Bus circuit of our cars. Otherwise, people use to have to keep their stock head units plugged in to keep the amp on. You do have a DSP amp correct?

I'm not sure what they are talking about with using the "Tape Input", that's not how these are setup. There is an option to switch to a CD changer/Aux input from within the I-Bus App, but that is just an AUX 2 channel (stereo) input, and has nothing to do with turning the amp on. And you never want to use speaker level inputs for anything, they sound like crap. See my first post ( I know it's a bit of a long read, but well worth all the info) with all the links to the BMW Head Unit Install Guide. There's some really useful info on that thread that I helped with. So I'm guessing you either don't have something wired properly or the app isn't setup correctly. Also, you need to make sure that you enter your VIN and "Unlock" the I-Bus app and DSP licenses from within the app, otherwise it won't work for sure. And you did purchase and properly wire a Resler I-Bus to USB interface, right?

Might upload some pics of your wiring/install and some more info on what OS/ROM and launcher and what model head unit too. Did you run the new 6 meter extension cable from the trunk to the head unit? Xtrons are the recommend head unit's for the I-Bus App, so I'm not sure if your unit will work or not, nor do I know much at all about Owtosin or how they setup their head units/wiring.

And for the Steering Wheel Controls (SWC's), make sure you have the option enabled in the I-Bus settings. The SWS's are also controlled over I-Bus, and regular SWC options in the ROM won't do anything. I use Hal9k android 9 ROM and there are more options for SWC's.
[Android Head-Units] nutttr:
Thanks for the response!

This is in a Range Rover L322, so same as E39/E53 with the full nav setup and DSP.

The stock headunit has a tape player behind the display and it feeds speaker level outputs on the blue/grey pair of wires from the blue 12 pin plug in the front of the car... That's in th stock one, so this new Android one doesn't use the cable to the rear of the car... You just plug it into this loom and done! (Well, it is when I've got the right canbus box apparently...). At the moment I have a "v2" software canbus box and need a "v3" one...

This is the short harness:

AU $16.55 | Short Harness adapter dual channel Canbus with 12 pins plug for BMW 6M Radio Antenna Adapter

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPf7Syv

I also agree about speaker level inputs, they can be less than ideal, however with a good setup it is ok. In coming time I'm going to swap the Amps out of the boot, etc for a Helix DSP... But I'll need to swap speakers, etc at the same time, so it's a year or so off.

When I say "tape input" I mean the ability to switch to these line level inputs (they feed into the BM54 directly).

If there is a "cd input" maybe I can put RCA plugs onto the CD Changer wires and see if that works... Not a terrible idea, but it seems like the cd changer uses 3 normal wires twisted together, not coax... So that's odd...

[Ninja edit - just had a look at the wiring for the BM54 and it goes into pin 1 & 2 / 7 & 8 on X13649. It's a different input setup to the other channels (as no common ground, etc).
[Android Head-Units] nutttr:
So...to round this out...

The CD Changer input in iBus doesn't work in my setup. It selects fine but doesn't change to the Aux input or the CD input... Not sure what the issue is... But I ended up rewiring the cd feed directly into the DSP input and adding RCAs onto the wiring at the front, so I got the preamp out to the boot without running wires!
[Android Head-Units] Pricey12:
I'm having some issues with the IBUS app, and am hoping someone can offer some help and advice. I initially installed the Resler interface and the IBUS app along with an Erisin head unit in my E39 last weekend. I wired the dongle in using three wires from my cars blue factory nav plug, and unfortunately this caused some issues with things not working correctly. I was unable to display obc functions on my IKE or access any of the lighting options, along with the app sometimes not displaying my vehicle VIN, etc. I reinstalled the dongle today using the quadlock adapter from the IBUS shop, and this has solved a few of the issues and given me more functionality. I can now display coolant temp, etc on my IKE and access the lighting options for DRL's and comfort blinkers, door locking, etc. I'm still having some issues though unfortunately. Consumption 1 and 2 and range are not working on the head unit display and are just showing dashes, although the consumption and range is displayed on the IKE. The clock and date are also not synching on the IKE from the head unit. Also when I engage reverse the PDC screen goes black and says input not available as if it is searching for a rear view camera. I also can't seem to access any coding functions from the menu - I check both the boxes but can't get any further. Apologies for the long winded post, but am hoping someone can offer some advice. Thanks.
[Android Head-Units] drummerclave:
Hi all.

Am I right in saying that any of the coding done through ibus app only works when ibus app is running? For example if I code my mirrors to auto close when I turn off ignition they don't open again until the headunit has powered back up and ibus has loaded up which can take a while.

Also welcome/leaving home light coding doesn't work when the headunit is off. I have a delayed shutdown but once that times out the lights go back to normal.

Anyway around this through ibus or is it only ncs expert to hard code to the lcm?
[Android Head-Units] whitewolf8111:
Hi, so sorry for the long delayed response. But hopefully you have figured out your problem by now. While I haven't experienced any of the problems you're mentioning, the first thing to is make sure your Resler is wired with a constant 12v wire, a switched 12v wire will give you problems. Also, what year is your E39? I believe some of the earlier models where a little more limited in some areas, like having an LCM II. And I believe there's something with an older IKE, I think there is an option in the settings for older IKE's.

You could check THIS link to I-Bus App Wiki and the restrictions according to year, and see if your model applies to any.
[Android Head-Units] blue_racer:
Hi, well since those functions are active controlled and not in coding menue this only works Wenn app is running and connected to the car by Resler interface. 😉

Coming/Leaving Home also only works if you change wire of the radio to consumer shutdown. But since this do not work properly on all cars we recommend not to use it (to avoid empty battery e.g.)..just wait, something new is coming about end of march. 😉

You find some coding parameters in I-BUS app, only im NCS there a some more but for special things only. Not for the active controlled functions of the app.
[Android Head-Units] whitewolf8111:
No, the coding should keep regardless of the app being present or not. These are actual coding changes to computers of the car.

But what you are talking about is a feature of the I-Bus App, not a coding option. So yes, the mirrors will only unfold once the app is up and running.

For the coming and leaving home, it is done through the consumer shutdown which requires different wiring then a normal switched ignition wire. When using consumer shutdown, the head unit is turned on and off through the I-Bus circuit and can be set with different triggers, like lock and unlock the car (like the OEM units did), and doesn't work like normal with the ignition switch (i.e. turning on or off the ignition key). So both wiring and settings in I-Bus App must be changed for it to work correctly. But I have had problems with the consumer shutdown, not shutting down and could kill the battery. So I believe it is recommend to not use the consumer shutdown at this time.

@blue_racer beat me to it lol! Good to see you!
[Android Head-Units] drummerclave:
Thanks for the reply. I had consumer shutdown set up but it used to set off my wipers. I just tried testing a different shutdown telegram and now my glove box light is off and I have self level suspension inactive warning. However if I test shutdown telegram 2 glove box light comes on for a second and then off again. Help!

Edit: I managed to solve my own problem but I will leave my post incase anyone has the same issue. I had to reset the modules by disconnecting battery terminals and shorting cables together for 10 mins.
[Android Head-Units] whitewolf8111:
@blue_racer Can you give us an idea what's going on with the new consumer shutdown? I noticed THIS on the website, a new Resler "Module" with some features targeting the consumer shutdown. Very exciting to see this!

Can you give us a better idea what to expect? Are our "Old" V6 interfaces obsolete now in the sense they won't support consumer shutdown anymore? Can we still use the wiring/pigtail from the V6 Interface, and just plug it right into the new one? It looks like the same plug??

Also, the site also says prices include VAT, even though I'm logged in, with my country set etc, it still want's to charge the VAT price.

And since this new one is almost 2x the cost of the old one, could there please be some kind of discount for people that already bought the V6?

Also, do you need any Beta testers???
[Android Head-Units] blue_racer:
Sorry for my late reply, somehow I didn't got any notifications from XDA :-(

We're proud to present the new orange RESLER MODUL :)

Resler Modul – I-BUS App Wiki

wiki.ibus-app.de

It took us more than two year to develope this "resler interface plus additional features" and months of testing with our beta testers. Also we had to do something new, because main parts of the old interface are not longer available. So the new orange resler module replaces the old black resler interface. We would be happy if you keep this terms, so we know in support what we are talking about :)

So now there is a new I-BUS communication chip inside plus a micro controller to do some jobs when radio - and so the app - are off. This means the need to change wiring of the radio to "consumer shutdown" is obsolete now - please turn back to "ignition" if you upgrade to resler module.

For now we are able to:

- use the module as interface for I-BUS app

- do coming/leaving home lights (sequences)

- fold/unfold mirrors

- start/stopp aux heater/ventilation

all by key remote.

There are some restriction for E46/E83 and older cars, so please find complete text in our (german) wiki (with translation function in menu!)

==> https://wiki.ibus-app.de/index.php?title=Resler_Modul

Also we add a manual for "upgrade from resler interface to resler module" (replace it p'n'p / no new license needed!)

==> https://wiki.ibus-app.de/index.php?title=Upgrade_auf_Resler_Modul

Also find all settings for it:

==> https://wiki.ibus-app.de/index.php?title=Resler_Modul_Einstellungen

AND we got a PC tool to set up the module (because it's able to work stand alone - without android unit!), light sequences etc.

==> https://wiki.ibus-app.de/index.php?title=Resler_Modul_Konfigurator

For all users who ordered the old black resler interface as registered user in our webshop, there will be automatically 10% discount if you order the new resler module.

And if your destination country (delivery address) is correct and you are logged in, VAT should disappear in cort too!?

The new orange resler module:
[Android Head-Units] Pricey12:
I'm having a minor issue with the IBUS app currently. For some reason the engine warm up bar seems to stay on 'warm', even after standing overnight. I can temporarily fix it by force stopping the app, however it then reoccurs. The coolant temperature is working how it should and this has only started happening recently and was fine previously. Have tried uninstalling and reinstalling the app, but that hasn't resolved it. Does anyone have any suggestions? It's not a deal breaker as I can just remove the warm up bar from the IBUS screen, but I'd rather get it working how it should. Thanks.
[Android Head-Units] blue_racer:
You already wrote this to support as I remember?

The "warm" bar will be resettet by shut down app only. We will have a look for this.
[Android Head-Units] Pricey12:
I did yes. Sorry, I didn't realise you were one and the same. Will wait for your response. Thanks.
[Android Head-Units] whitewolf8111:
Have you made sure your engine temp is set to the right temperature in the I-Bus Settings?
[Android Head-Units] Pricey12:
Do you mean the coolant operating temperature? Yes, I've set it to the correct value. It's strange how it was working fine previously but not now.
[Android Head-Units] Gunfiyld:
Anyone else experiencieng issues with the latest firmware update (7.2.0.8)? After installing the update last Friday on my '99 E39 M5 I get error "No supported USB interface available" so pretty much none of the Ibus apps functions can be used.

The error started immidiately after the firmware update and no issues before it. DSP still works though...
[Android Head-Units] OzzE38:
No issues, however, I am using a mounted Samsung Galaxy tablet on the dash rather than a radio head-unit so I get "No supported USB interface available" all the time until I plug the Resler interface Goto USB lead into the tablet.

Sometimes it will not read and I have to restart/reboot the tablet.

Have you updated to version 2.2.0.3 of the IBusApp software itself?
[Android Head-Units] Gunfiyld:
I have the latest IBusApp software aswell. I have soldered the module's connections to the on-board-monitor's blue plug (X18801) which is not recommended in the IBus wiki, but seems to be only senseble solution when your OE radio is in the trunk... As far as I understand all the recommended connection points assume your OE radio is in the center console.

Does anyone have better solutions for connecting the IBus module when OE radio is in the trunk than the blue plug?
[Android Head-Units] OzzE38:
this video may help:
[Android Head-Units] OzzE38:
plus this video:
[Android Head-Units] whitewolf8111:
I just updated to the latest version and had this issue too. All I had to do was select the Resler Module in the IBus App General settings.

Note that this is with the new orange Resler Module (which I'm loving so far!).
[Android Head-Units] Gunfiyld:
Thank you, this solved the issue and everything is working again! 👍 I also have the new Resler Module

@OzzE38 Cheers also for the videos. The latter one was actually what I did use as my reference when insalling the iBus and I have it connected the same way as in the video.
[Android Head-Units] whitewolf8111:
Glad it worked for you too.

Why do you still have the OE radio in the trunk?? It is not needed with the Resler.

Check this post of mine about the Resler wiring (although some of the info is getting a little dated, look through that thread for some good install and wiring tips): https://www.m5board.com/threads/xtrons-pb7639bp-android-head-unit-installation.586378/post-7506298
[Android Head-Units] Gunfiyld:
Sorry for being unclear - I don't have the OE radio connected.

What I meant was that all the recommended connection points in the Wiki's instrucions seem to work only if your OE radio and thus the radio Quadlock connector are in the centre console.

On the other hand I have Eonon radio, so the 6m extension cable might be a bit different to Xtrons'. With Eonon's extension cable atleast the canbus connector is also at the trunk end of the cable, so I don't know if there is "iBus wire" coming to the other end of the extension cable where the Resler module would be convenient to connect.
[Android Head-Units] whitewolf8111:
I think the Eonon and Xtrons 6m harness is the same, so the Ibus connections should be the same at the head unit too. If you look at the pictures in the last link in my last post, It's the 2 quadlock connector with 4 wires. Though I would make sure before connecting your Resler.
[Android Head-Units] Luauboy:
So - i had my Audio team install the Avant AVIN4 and the I-Bus App / Module into my e53. Once licensed - it seemed to work just fine. However, now when i start the vehicle - i get the NO USB DEVICE FOUND error? Nothing has changed with the module or App ( AFAIK ) - however, I did install the BlackVue Camera and 4G LTE mat. Also, disconnected / reconnected a USB device ( flash drive ) into one of my 2 USB wires running into the glovebox? Help!!!
[Android Head-Units] whitewolf8111:
As I mentioned above:

"I just updated to the latest version and had this issue too. All I had to do was select the Resler Module in the IBus App General settings.

Note that this is with the new orange Resler Module (which I'm loving so far!)."
[Android Head-Units] HatManSan:
After installing the latest apk, every single time I start the app, my wipers run once, three times with around 20 seconds between wipes. Uninstall the app, and it doesn't happen. Reinstall, wipers run. Currently uninstalled and no issues. Anyone? Cheers
[Android Head-Units] whitewolf8111:
Hmmm, that's a strange one. As far as I know, there's nothing to do with the wipers within the Ibus App. This didn't happen before the update? Have you recently done anything else to the car like wiring or coding? What model is the car? Does it have the rain and light sensor?
[Android Head-Units] HatManSan:
Hi. No nothing. All i did was upgrade to the latest version. Will go back to the previous version shortly. I did reinstall the latest and the first thing that happened when the app started was the wipers cycled three times with a minute. Uninstalled, nothing. Will reinstall the previous as soon as and post back. Cheers
[Android Head-Units] whitewolf8111:
@blue_racer
[Android Head-Units] blue_racer:
Hi, this refers to the latest App version 2.2.0.3 since, we've changed the way we recognize the USB device.

Please just go to general I-BUS app settings => "USB device" and select the plugged USB device again.

Thanks
[Android Head-Units] whitewolf8111:
@blue_racer, thanks.

Can you please also reply to the problem I quoted above that @HatManSan is having with the wipers?
[Android Head-Units] blue_racer:
Hi, sounds like there was a wrong central lock telegram set. Please open I-BUS app settings => central lock => central lock telegram and try another one fitting to your car e.g. E39.