yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Android Head-Units] blue_racer:
Seems to be a head unit issue, which one are you using in detail? (Reseller and type)

Is there only the orange Resler module on USB or further devices?
[Android Head-Units] vazee00Buda:
Head unit: ES2739B

I use the old black interface (no other USB device plugged in)

Thanks
[Android Head-Units] blue_racer:
Maybe this was some issue about USB permission?

Troubleshooting – I-BUS App Wiki

wiki.ibus-app.de

Or simply your head unit does not safe this due to it was a "cheap" one - sorry.
[Android Head-Units] blue_racer:
Still working on a similar app für E6x/E9x etc.

Meanwhile got an interface and adapter for easier installation.

Wiki was in process and app too.

Got some preview: https://wiki.kcan-app.de
[Android Head-Units] phreak616:
I am experiencing the same issue with the I-BUS App crashing on startup randomly on my '03 E39 (w/o DSP).

I am running this on an IA7239B + Resler Module

I've tried setting the automatic startup delay to 10000ms to see if that helps, but it still crashes occasionally on boot
[Android Head-Units] blue_racer:
We got a beta version for IX series trying to fix this issue for auto start in most cases - no idea if it will work for not-recommended IA series (due to its hardware).

To get this version write a DM.

Another try was to use another launcher and add I-BUS app in auto start there, e.g. iDrive launcher: https://idrive.ibus-app.de
[Android Head-Units] phreak616:
Thanks for the prompt response @blue_racer - I'll DM you for the version.

I forgot to mention I tried using another launcher and am using iDrive Launcher at this time, auto start in there hasn't been successful either unfortunately.
[Android Head-Units] toml0006:
I had both versions of the IX1239BHL and IX7239BS head units and ultimately returned both of them due to the unreliability of the ibus app + resler module with these head units. My car has the DSP meaning that I need the ibus app to properly control volume of the stereo in the car (even then it is still awkward with the volume knob controlling the head unit volume and the steering wheel controlling the DSP volume). My experience was that the app would crash, fail to launch, or incorrectly handle volume changes on both the head unit and/or the steering wheel controls over 50% the time. I could usually get things working if I rebooted the head unit a few times, but honestly that is not acceptable - I want to be able to get into the car and drive not fiddle with the stereo for several minutes. In short (and not that my opinion really matters) I would definitely not try to use the IX series and it sounds like the IA series may be even worse.

Apparently the IQ or PQS series are better but since they can't be purchased from a source with a permissive return policy, I just went back to the stock head unit.

If anyone wants to purchase a lightly used resler module, feel free to DM me!
[Android Head-Units] blue_racer:
Thank you for your feedback.

I would just like to emphasise one thing clearly: the problems are solely due to the IX series (and also IA etc) - the cause is not the I-BUS app.

All recommended radios so far check their devices (USB, BT, WiFi,..) after booting and also waking up from standby. The Resler module is recognised on the USB and the Android(!) starts the linked app, in this case the I-BUS app. This also happens in the same way with DAB+, for example. (Which do not work on IX either)

We have been in contact with Xtrons since we got an IX for testing and encountered this problem. We have also customised the app to find another option for starting, which works 98% of the time - but has so far only been implemented in a beta version of the app.

We hope Xtrons does something for the IX series, we'll stay tuned.

As for you: you can still use the module "standalone" with all the advantages it has ;-)

And "before summer 2024" the new IQ series was announced (this time WITHOUT DVD drive). We are curious.
[Android Head-Units] Crunkbg:
Hey everyone, i have strange problem with ibuss app and reverse camera. When in foreground is ibuss app and i put on reverse gear, the video start, but after 5-10 seconds ibuss app pop up on screen and after another 5-10 seconds the video from backup camera turn on again. When i minimize ibuss app and put reverse gear, the video from camera don't stop.

My device is mcu g6-ts 8667. Any advice will be good.
[Android Head-Units] blue_racer:
Sorry I do not understand.

I-BUS app "stop" reverse cam pic/video by overlaying over reverse cam pic? in full screen?

Are you using "PDC pop-up" as small icon for PDC over reverse cam?
[Android Head-Units] Crunkbg:
Attaching video for better explanation. Ibuss settings are default. Everything in pdc is unchecked.

Video
[Android Head-Units] blue_racer:
Got it.

What powers your rear cam with 12V to switch on? Guess this 12V signal gets lost so cam was hidden and I-BUS app comes up.

In doubt send a short log after such a case happened.

Send a log file for trouble shooting – I-BUS App Wiki

wiki.ibus-app.de
[Android Head-Units] RowdyRoegelein:
I am looking at purchasing an android head unit but want it to work well with the IBus app. I have seen the Xtrons IX has issues. What about the Xtrons IQ7239B with the Qualcomm snapdragon? Eonon also has a similar build, the E39A12S with Qualcomm. I also saw the Xtrons PQS7139B with PX6 is available, but would need to ship from Germany to US. Which would you recommend @blue_racer
[Android Head-Units] qvidal:
I have had the IQ7239B for over a year and I am very happy with it. I have had a few quirks here and there, but I am the type that pushes every button and then resets and tries other stuff
[Android Head-Units] austin283874:
Figured I'll ask here too but does anyone know how to open other apps from within ibus app? This Video shows someone using the app for steering wheel controls to open a screen dimming app but mine only shows a select few system apps and none of the playstore apps such as gmail etc

Using the same headunit as video AVIN Avant 4
[Android Head-Units] blue_racer:
For your AVIN this shall work.

Open "other" settings ins I-BUS app and enable SWC by I-BUS app.

Now you may swap the functions for each button on steering wheel - even select an app to start.

BUT to avoid to run the OEM function of the button you need to cut the brown/black wire from CAN box to head unit also!

See our wiki and check footnote 7:

App Einstellungen v2 – I-BUS App Wiki

wiki.ibus-app.de
[Android Head-Units] blue_racer:
I like the "AAS Launcher", based on dasaita ROMs.

https://xtrons.ibus-app.de/index.ph...ncher.2C_Time.2FWeahter-Widget_und_DAB.2B_App
[Android Head-Units] jrobbom5:
Thanks for the tips guys. I'm using FCC launcher as well, I've tried a few and FCC is my favorite so far.

The AAS launcher looks like the launcher that is bundled with the Hal9k ROM

---------- Post added at 10:56 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:45 AM ----------

Perfect whitewolf! It was indeed Poweramp that was doing it! Thanks very much for your help :)
[Android Head-Units] blue_racer:
Well, in Hal9k V3, that's right. Hal9k V4 got the "Android 9" Launcher ;)
[Android Head-Units] jrobbom5:
I only bought my first Android head unit a couple of weeks ago. I have never seen Hal9k V3, but I installed Hal9k V4 just a few days ago, and the launcher that it shipped with looked very much like the AAS launcher that you referred to. Not that it matters of course, I was just making an observation. Glad you are happy with AAS :)
[Android Head-Units] jrobbom5:
I have just found another bug, related to one that I mentioned earlier. When the head unit wakes up from sleep, and the DSP amp is started, it always selects the Tuner input. For various reasons, I am using the digital (S/PDIF) CD input, and so I have go into the IBUS app and select the CD input every time. It should ensure that the previously used input is selected, ie just like the stock system would.
[Android Head-Units] blue_racer:
Nice to hear you are using this. :)

So your CD changer is connected by the coax wire? May I ask: are there any noises if you use this.. im comparision when using "radio" as source and listen to radio etc. from the android unit?

And: we will add this to the next release. Long planned, now in process :good:
[Android Head-Units] jrobbom5:
I'm not using a CD changer. Before I purchased the Android head unit, I had an intravee II in place of the CD Changer, and I had the analog output of the intravee routed via a GROM A-to-D converter into the (coaxial) digital input of the DSP amp. After installing the Android head unit, I noticed some low-level white-noise when using the tuner input of the amp, so as an experiment, I routed the output of the head-unit via a Line Output Converter and the GROM A-to-D converter into the digital input, and this resulted in less white noise. Obviously, the DSP amp must have it's own A-to-D converter on the tuner input, so I can only assume that the GROM unit is better. But regardless, there is noticablely less white noise when using the digital input, so I'm keep to keep using it.

Just to be clear, the white noise I am talking about it very low-level to begin with. only heard with the volume set to high and no signal on the input. I have not tested it, but I doubt I would be able to hear it when driving. But I had the GROM unit and the Line Output Converter sitting here anyway, so it costs me nothing to set it up to use the digital input :)

Thanks again very much for your answers, and all of the hard work you have put into the app :)
[Android Head-Units] blue_racer:
Thanks for this info.

I had the same idea because heard of this white noise.

May you pls send me a link to this converter? And which "line outout converter"? Thought to use the rcs out of the android unit?
[Android Head-Units] jrobbom5:
What is the "RCS Out" of the android head unit that you mentioned? As far as I could see, I only had speaker-level outputs from the head unit, so I used the Line Output Converter to drop speaker-level (ie 12V) to line-level (about 2V) so that I did not overdrive the Digital input.

I should point out that my results are preliminary at best, I have not done any proper measurements. I only got my unit installed a week ago, and I am still tidying up the wiring in the boot (trunk). Also, since we are in lockdown, I have not been able to test the unit etc while driving. All I can really say is that while sitting in my garage, there is a noticable drop in white noise while using the digital CD input of the DSP Amp.

This is the GROM ADC I use: https://gromaudio.com/store/accessories/bmw_dsp_conversion_kit.html

This is the Line Output Converter that I used: https://www.elite-electronics.com.a...s/Aerpro_APHL2MI_2_Channel_Line_Out_Converter

I will try and get my wiring finished today and I will let you know what my results are.
[Android Head-Units] blue_racer:
Thanks for the infos. So you did not have a test while driving, but by engine running and lower noise in this case?

Regarding the RCA-out I meant plugs 8&9 and 12&13

[IMG="Xtrons Pin out"]https://xtrons.ibus-app.de/images/1/1f/PB7839BP_wiring.jpg[/IMG]

I will have a look at the GROM converter, but I guess a simply A/D converter with 44,1kHz (found this info in www.39-forum.de) would also ok?
[Android Head-Units] jrobbom5:
I did not try those RCA outputs, as I had to run the large cable to the boot of the car where the DSP AMP is, I just used the outputs that I had available to me.

It's very hard to find detailed information regarding the digitial input on the DSP amp. It is supposed to be a S/PDIF interface, but I tried a generic S/PDIF ADC and I got a lot of "clicking" noises, so I assumed that BMW had made some mods so that it was no longer a standard S/PDIF interface. So then I went and bought the GROM unit, as it was specifically designed for that purpose. Hopefully you can find a cheaper unit that will work.

I will try and do some more testing a little later on and let you know my results :)
[Android Head-Units] blue_racer:
Maybe the "generic S/PDIF ADC" had the wrong sampling rate?

As I found we do needd 44,1kHz:

Sources:

https://www.e39-forum.de/index.php?thread/93839-mp3-über-spatz-rca-opto-converter-an-dsp-verstärker/

https://www.e39-forum.de/index.php?thread/44807-digitaler-aux-in-für-dsp-mittels-a-d-wandler/

I know there is also 48kHz or 96kHz used, but this would not fit to our DSP, as I understand.

Well, we will see :)
[Android Head-Units] jrobbom5:
Hi [MENTION=5022255]whitewolf8111[/MENTION], I've been trying to get mtce-utils working but with no success so far. mcte-utils is installed, and is turned on within Edexposed. I created a directory in /storage/emulated/0 called mcte-utils, and within that directory a placed a file called settings.ini, which contains:

[android.microntek.service#keys]
keycode_256=219
keycode_316=85

But it doesn't work. The only thing I can think of is that it won't work on PX6 processors, just wondering if you might have any ideas on what I could try.

Cheers :)
[Android Head-Units] whitewolf8111:
Sorry for the late reply.

I have a PX5 so I'm not sure if a PX6 would work, but I think it should be pretty much the same.

Since there are a lot of different factors here, you need to do a process of elimination to zero in on the issue.

First, make sure that you have properly activated all the modules both in Magisk and EdXposed and that all of that is set up properly. Maybe even try another simple Xposed module of some kind to verify that that side of things is working properly.

Then I would start with MTCD tools or the new read keycode option in the Hal9k mod 4 ROM, and make sure the codes can be intercepted and will display the keycode when a button on the headunit is pressed.

If you're able to read the keycodes through MTCD tools or Hal9k ROM, and EdXposed is properly working, then you might need to play around with wording of the code; like maybe instead of:

[android.microntek.service#keys]
keycode_256=219
keycode_316=85

Try:

[android.microntek.service#keys]
keymtc_256=219
keymtc_316=85

Also, maybe try adding some other commands like mapping a key to google assistant or some other app.

Its been a while since I set mine up, but I remember it took quite a bit of trial and error to find the right combo.
[Android Head-Units] jrobbom5:
Thanks so much mate for the comprehensive reply. I will give everything you suggested a try and let you know how you go.

With regard to using the digital CD input on the amp, I've given up on this for the time being. Having to manually select the CD input every time I start the car is a pain, waiting for a new release of the iBus app when hopefully this problem is fixed.
[Android Head-Units] jrobbom5:
I've done a bit more investigating into some of the noise issues that I have been having, and I noticed something peculiar: I seem to have 2 seperate volume controls. If I adjust the volume via the steering wheel keys, this sets a "master" volume limit, and then the volume keys on the head unit adjust the volume from 0 to 30 scaled within the limit set by the master volume. So as an example, if I set the volume to 0 with the SWC, and then adjust the volume on the head unit from 0 to 30, I get no sound at all, as it is limited by the master volume set by the steering wheel.

If I were to hazard a guess, I suspect that the SWC keys are adjusting the volume on the DSP amp, and the head unit keys are adjusting the volume on the head unit. When I go to the DSP screen in the iBus app, the DSP amp volume does not change, however I have seen that the app screen does not update in other instances as well. What is strange though, it that both the SWC volume keys and the head unit volume keys both throw up the same key codes (273 and 281 I think).

Has anyone seen this before? Anyone got any suggestions please?

PS [MENTION=5022255]whitewolf8111[/MENTION], I have played around with mtce-utils and it does not work at all. mtcd-tools works fine, as does any other Xposed module I try, it's just mtce-utils that doesn't work. Not expecting you to do anything of course, just following up on our previous conversation :)
[Android Head-Units] Drunkenninja:
I know there is an option in IBUS to link the volumes, but for me it does not work well, the DPS volume is definitely separate to the HU volume, I set my DSP start number pretty low as this give the HU volume more range.

I agree that there is a conflict between the two, maybe the option to sync the two could be adjusted?
[Android Head-Units] jrobbom5:
Yes, it's the same for me. When I use the iBus app function to keep a fixed radio volume (which I presume means that it only uses the DSP amp for volume), then they tend to fight each other, and the volume will ficker up and down really quickly.

It would be good if we could just keep one of the volume controls fixed (for me that would preferably be the DSP amp volume) and then the volume controls only control the other.
[Android Head-Units] blue_racer:
Hi, we do know about the issues with volume control regarding the DSP.

So we had a look on this, especially fixing radio volume and control DSP only, this will be part of the next update release.

Hope this woll work as it should. :o
[Android Head-Units] jrobbom5:
So, after doing a little more investigation, it appears that all of my noise issues are coming from the DSP amp and not the head unit. If I turn up the DSP volume and turn down the head unit amp gain to compensate, then I get lots of noise. If I turn down the DSP volume to around 25%, and turn up the head unit gain to around -3db, then there is virtually no noise at all, even at max volume. So, ideally the ibus app should have an option so that the steering wheel controls do not alter the DSP volume, ie there should be another option for "Fixed DSP Volume". At the moment, I am limited to not using the steering wheel volume controls because I don't want to turn up the DSP volume. Is that something that can be added into the next version please?
[Android Head-Units] whitewolf8111:
I reported this problem to you all a long time ago. Some of the earlier V2 versions this worked as it should, and I noticed that the sound was better when I was able to use this option. Then something got broken in one of the updates and caused the bouncing up and down of the volume, when "Fixed Radio Volume" was used, and was very hard to get out of it as no other buttons could be used while it was doing this. I call it a "Volume Loop".

Isn't that the option that is already in the DSP settings, and the same problem as mentioned above? Although I guess it's called "Fixed Radio Volume" there, but wouldn't that be

the same, just backwards?

And it's really weird that your SWC's control the Master while the head unit controls the DSP. What MCU are you on? Have you changed any settings in the MCU?

Hmm, I'm not sure why it wouldn't be working. Are you trying for SWC's and/or Head Unit buttons? Are you able to pull keycodes with mtcd-tools and/or Hal9k mod 4 ROM?

If just for SWC's, have you made sure that both options for SWC's in the I-Bus app are enabled? I can't seem to find the info right now, but I do know that I had to have a red (I think) wire disconnected from the Can-Bus box, but I can't remember exactly why... I think it had to do with SWC's though. It might even have to do with why you have the 2 separate volume controls. I'll try and dig up some more info on this.

A note to everyone: It would be really helpful for others if you update your signature similar to how my sig is setup so we know what all you're working with. There are SO many variables with so many different setups.
[Android Head-Units] jrobbom5:
Yes, I get the "Volume Loop" as well. The way I understand it, the "Fixed Radio Volume" means "Leave the radio volume the same, and adjust the DSP volume only". As you say, I need the opposite which would leave the DSP volume the same and just use the head unit volume control.

The steering wheel volume buttons and the head unit volume buttons both produce the same codes, however the SWC button presses are exposed to the iBus, the head unit buttons are not. I suspect that the iBus app is seeing the SWC button presses on the iBus and adjusting the DSP amp volume accordingly.

I don't use the iBus app for SWC buttons, I have both of those controls turned off. The reason for this is that when I use the iBus app to interpret SWC buttons, the volume gets increased or decreased by "2" each time (ie it increases both the DSP amp volume and the head unit volume together). So for that reason I have both of those controls turned off, and I am using the CanBus box that came with my head unit. That all works fine, except that (it apprears that) the iBus app is still interpreting the SWC volume button presses, and it shouldn't be.

It sounds like the mysterious "red wire" that you mention is worth investigating, I will do some searching and see what I can find, but if you have any further info, that would be much appreciated.

Thanks to everyone for your help!

PS: Signature updated to [MENTION=5022255]whitewolf8111[/MENTION] specifications :D
[Android Head-Units] Drunkenninja:
Good idea [MENTION=5022255]whitewolf8111[/MENTION] updated my signature.

I am sure the DSP volume issue will be synced in the next version, great to see that fixes are incoming!!
[Android Head-Units] whitewolf8111:
[MENTION=9400855]jrobbom5[/MENTION] [MENTION=10599421]Drunkenninja[/MENTION] Ha! Love it! Signatures look great guys! Couldn't have done it better myself ;)

Hope everyone is keeping safe and healthy out there!

I haven't found out what the mystery red wire is yet, though I haven't had a chance to look too hard yet. Been pretty busy with work and designing a carport (will be upgraded to a garage over time) for my car finally. We get 100*+ summers here, and with a black car, really sucks. Plus it will give me a place to work on customers' car's in the shade, so this is long over due. But I have a little free time now and I'll try to track it down.

I did get to test out the system a bit more in the car lately and for the most part, everything is working great! DSP and music start right away after engine start and everything. The first time in a long time that I've been able to just leave my unit in the car and not have it live on the bench trying to sort all the previous bugs. My unit is running nice and cool, and not maxing out my CPU from some one of the I-Bus app settings... Still haven't zeroed that one down. If anyone is having the high CPU usage and temp throttling issues, and want's to try my I-Bus app backup to see if it goes away, let me know and I will send it to you. I did install a fan to help maintain a cool running unit too. I can add pics if anyone want's to see how I did it. [MENTION=8411750]blue_racer[/MENTION] shared a picture of a prototype, super slim, CNC heatsink that they are working on for units with DVD players that have just a couple mm between the DVD and the SOM. I will for sure be buying a heatsink when they are available, and the CNC head unit install brackets.

Hopefully he can share some pics of the heatsink here... It's purddy! :cowboy:

Can't wait for the new version of the I-Bus app, the heatsink and whatever awesomeness you all bring out next! [MENTION=8411750]blue_racer[/MENTION]
[Android Head-Units] jrobbom5:
Hi [MENTION=5022255]whitewolf8111[/MENTION], nice to hear from you :) I thought you had left. Hope that all is well with you :)

Thanks very much for the info, and info on "the mysterious red wire" would be very much appreciated when you have time. I have not checked iBus App CPU usage on my PX6 unit, but have not noticed it doing anything unusual in that regard, but I will investigate further. I have not been able to progress with any of my iBus App issues, just waiting on an updated app, but not holding my breath on that.

When you get a chance, would you be able to take a screenshot of your CanBus settings under the Factory Menu for me please? I can't find a config that works for me yet and would really like to get that sorted.

I will do some investigation and see how much CPU the iBus App is using. Thanks again for your help :)