yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Android Head-Units] checksum123:
Thanks,

I was going to build a custom frame so it would look factory, when I realize the screen is very similar to the Ownice frame made for my car (nissan murano). So I contacted Ownice on Alibaba, and was able to convince them to sell me just the frame, I bought 2 of them just in case it did not fit and I had to do some mods, but it was a perfect fit.

I am using the digital out to the DSR-1 DSP, here is how I connected everything together:
[Android Head-Units] les_garten:
Jedi move on everything you did then!

---------- Post added at 11:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:09 PM ----------

Does anybody know if there is a way to disable the on board amps altogether?
[Android Head-Units] strawsy:
Yeah I figured that setting out right after I posted. It was some brake setting and I turned it off and viola.

Your setup looks good. I'll have to get some pictures of mine. I just finished install up today. Sound quality seems spot on with my old setup. I will say that the 4g module doesn't work very well. I think there are a few USbands missing. I bite the bullet and subscribed to the built in 4g in my truck and connected through wifi. Playback so far has been flawless. The next/back not working in Spotify isn't bothering me because I'm able to easily reach the screen and just swipe. The unit runs a little hot so I'm a little worried about warm weather. I'm thinking about cracking the case open and adding a heatsink and a fan. So far I'm very happy I bought this thing. It's my first android head unit. Big thanks to [MENTION=1824007]guimond47[/MENTION] for doing the initial review.
[Android Head-Units] guimond47:
[MENTION=4463220]checksum123[/MENTION] if your sound if still not perfect, you need to work on tuning. The dsr-1 should deliver perfection when done right. I highly suggest you invest in a audio control mic that is calibrated RTA. Run pink noise and set your eq’s independently properly. This will enhance sound greatly. Highly recommended. It helps make all frequencies arrive at ur ears in a perfect time and flat manner. That way things dont sound too dull, harsh, or bold. Try it out . I picked up my mic for 200$ i think it was
[Android Head-Units] marchnz:
Did you try controlling from settings, its not obvious from your post what you have tried.
[Android Head-Units] GammaPaladin:
Dodge/Chrysler?

Anyone installed one of these in a Dodge/Chrysler vehicle? Or even better, specifically a Grand Caravan on Town & Country?

I drive a Grand Caravan and I'm thinking of getting one of these models. Not so much for the digital audio out (Though it's nice to have as an option later) but because they have a few with 4G capability included (And I'm on Fi so getting a data only sim is basically free).

Just wondering if it worked well. Not too concerned about the install looking perfect, as long as the unit works.

EDIT: Specifically looking at these twomodels:

JY-UO134N4G - https://www.joyingauto.com/joying-1...een-car-navigation-system-with-4g-module.html

JY-UOS02N4G - https://www.joyingauto.com/joying-a...ch-touch-screen-head-unit-with-4g-module.html
[Android Head-Units] twokidsandaphone:
This could be another option for those looking for a DSP with digital in: https://www.minidsp.com/products/car-audio-dsp/c-dsp-6x8
[Android Head-Units] strawsy:
Here's a picture of my unit installed, 2016 Chevrolet Silverado. I was going for the newer floating style head units and wanted to reduce glare.
[Android Head-Units] les_garten:
Looks great!

What Audio player is that?
[Android Head-Units] strawsy:
Thanks. It's Spotify with the car view turned off. Spotify has all the music I want so that's mainly what I use.
[Android Head-Units] twokidsandaphone:
Anybody tried this with these joying units? https://xdaforums.com/android-auto/...cd-spotifykeys-control-spotify-using-t3428930
[Android Head-Units] strawsy:
I tried it but didn't work for me. Personally I don't mind as the way I have mine setup I can easily reach the screen and swipe forward or backward. If it wasn't for that I would really need my steering wheel controls.
[Android Head-Units] edit:
Guys, would you be so kind to post some pictures of the internals... motheboard, som, cables to the display if you have a 2DIN?

Thank you !
[Android Head-Units] HHU68:
[MENTION=1007777]strawsy[/MENTION], my new headunit also doesn't recognize my sim card, I your problem solved yet, and how did you do that?
[Android Head-Units] strawsy:
I got it working but the 4g coverage is crap. I think a few US bands are missing but I use the 4g in my truck. Anyway make sure the sim is all the way in and reset the unit from the button on the top left side of the screen. Just press it in and hold it for a few seconds.
[Android Head-Units] talroot:
Mine came in earlier this week and I'm installing it today. To my disappointment, the unit is not triggering the remote amp on through the "AMP CONT" wire. I'm replacing a perfectly working older Joying 7" rk3188 and the ISO harness I have tapped into my my 04 silverado is identical to the one they sent with this unit; it should be plug and play. Since the dash trim is off and the wires are hanging out it's easy to pull the new unit off and put the old one back in. When the old one boots up the amp is turned on as it should.

I have an email to Joying on the issue but it'll probably be a little bit before I hear back. Anyone figure out the PW to the developer options yet? It's almost like a trigger is turn off that tells the unit to send signal out that PIN once it's booted.
[Android Head-Units] strawsy:
Yeah there's an option in the settings to amp on. I don't remember which menu but it says amp turn on, on/off. Should work after that. My menu code is 3368.
[Android Head-Units] talroot:
I searched through every menu I could and didn't see it...at least I think I did. I'll revisit tomorrow and perhaps try that code and/or dig some more.

Also, I foolishly updated my aswc-1 to the latest firmware and can't get it working properly again with either head unit, lol. Way to go me. It was never perfect before with the old unit but vol + - worked fine. It was quirky where I couldn't bind seek +- because it thought those the same as vol+-. I don't really care as long as I can get the volume keys working again like they were. This is a key 1 key2 head unit and it's still soldered that way from when I installed the rk3188 back in 2015. Too many beers and memory loss to remember EXACTLY what I did with the aswc-1 at the time..
[Android Head-Units] strawsy:
I'm sick so I haven't been going outside but tomorrow if I feel better I'll find the exact menu where the amp setting is.

Did you reset thr aswc1 and then try again? Just make sure the aswc1 is recognizing your car first and then try setting in the joying. Also I don't know if it matters but when programming the aswc1 from the pc I chose pioneer.
[Android Head-Units] talroot:
Thanks for the input. I'm going out in a little while to mess around with it again. Setup using the reset button hold down for 3 seconds then vol up (autodetect) on the aswc-1 completes and detects everything but never actually works. I'll try using the software and see what happens.
[Android Head-Units] talroot:
Ok, I can't believe I didn't see this yesterday. It is under settings>device>sound. Amp now comes on. Sub level is weak as mentioned but easily fixed with a little more gain on amp. Odd, old unit had better signal on the sub out rca. Unit sounds good on RCAs but haven't tweaked anything yet.

As far as the ASWC-1, for some reason the software never finds the device when I attempt to program it that way yet it find the device to update software...at any rate, manually programming the stereo type using the axxess instructions works and choosing "Visteon" allows me to program ll but one of my steering wheel buttons. This is better than I had before.

Now I'll put the mess of wires back in the dash and mount the unit. Thanks for the help!
[Android Head-Units] strawsy:
Glad you found the setting. I still haven't went outside as it is snowing here and I'm still sick. Are you using rca out on the joying or digital? If using rca you should probably turn up the sub level on the joying. I would suggest measuring the signal to make sure it isn't clipping but it's always best to try and get the maximum unclipped level out of the main source.

For the aswc1 have you tried using a different pc and cable? I've had issues before and had to use a different pc to get it to recognize.

Has anyone got OBDII adapter working? I've tried 3 different adapters and they all pair but torque doesn't recognize any of them.
[Android Head-Units] ant232:
Bluetooth call quality

Has anyone any comments on the Bluetooth call quality, specifically the quality of the mic to the caller?

I have the JY-VO131N4 which is the VW version with the Airmont processor.

I had the previous Joying VW model and could never get the Bluetooth to work correctly. When the can was stationary the mic quality was OK but as soon as I started driving the car the mic quality turned to 'mush', to the degree the caller couldn't make out what I was saying at all. I went through a long and protracted conversation with Joying support but they could not fix the problem. Eventually they suggested that I upgrade the head unit to the latest model and it's still basically the same. Extremely disappointing! Don't get me wrong, I love the headunit and I think it's fantastic value and looks great in the dash, but the call quality is driving me crazy.

It's to do with the microphone and background/vibration noise. The reason I know this is because I downloaded a voice recorder app and tested the mic without any Bluetooth connectivity. The results were the same as making a call (albeit with better mic quality). When the car is stationary the quality is OK (not great, just OK) but when I drive, the mic input is being overloaded by low frequency rumble and vibration. It may have something to do with what ever AGC the mic hits that's trying to deal with the low frequency noise and in turn decimating the voice quality.

I'm using the external mic (plugged in correctly :) ). Making a call, just using the speaker on my phone, is fine so I don't think there is an unusually high amount of background noise in the car (2010 VW Passat).

I am waiting on joying to get back to me again with a solution but I was just wondering how other people were getting on with call quality.

---------- Post added at 02:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:39 PM ----------

I got my OBDII connected and working with Torque. It's a little flaky in that it drops the connection from time to time but it did work. I'm using a cheap ELM327. I haven't messed with it much, that's just what I have discovered so far.
[Android Head-Units] strawsy:
JOYING wrote me back and said there is an issue with firmware and that's why OBDII isn't working. Engineers are currently working on a fix.
[Android Head-Units] les_garten:
Maybe find a MIC that costs more than $1.25
[Android Head-Units] kouklo:
Do they use regular old plug and play mics? If that's the case I can use the one that came with my JVC. I think you are being WAAAAAAAY too generous with that price. By the looks of them, they seem to be around 10 cents. LOL
[Android Head-Units] les_garten:
I don't have one of these yet, but I'm sure the are just plain old 3.5mm mic's. They are probably very "microphonic" in respect to the wires and what not. Need a picture of the Jack to determine what to buy. Can someone show what the jack looks like?
[Android Head-Units] kouklo:
If you look at the mics on their website it looks to be 3.5. The plug seems to have 3 notches on it, I wonder why if it's only a mic. Im not really aware of any other plug that would look like that. I know that Joying has a way of blocking other accessories other than their own (DVR cam), but I don't see how it would be possible with a 3.5mm jack.
[Android Head-Units] les_garten:
I think if you match the jack it will work. Find one with good reviews.

If you do a Google image search for car microphone, you'll see some are TRS and some are TS jacks.
[Android Head-Units] kouklo:
Have you tried other mics? if you run a 3.5mm extension to the HU then you can try a few different mics without having to pull everything out each time.

Personally, I have been looking at this one for a while now. It seems pretty good.

https://www.amazon.ca/Andrea-2S-Superbeam-Array-Microphone/dp/B00FCLIE78
[Android Head-Units] strawsy:
I could be wrong but it think one of the issues is the head unit only uses the built in mic. I believe even if you plug in an external mic the head unit still uses the one built into the screen itself.
[Android Head-Units] kouklo:
Then why add a mic with it? Does anyone know for sure?
[Android Head-Units] NextName:
Pretty disappointed to hear that the steering wheel controls won't work properly. That's definitely going to be a huge flaw in this unit and almost makes me want to keep my OEM unit or buy another name-brand non-Android unit like a Pioneer AppRadio, to be honest.

My head unit also won't fit my OEM double DIN dash bezel as the Joying unit is a splash too tall and quite a bit too wide. Going to buy an aftermarket dash kit to cut up so I don't have to cut an OEM one.
[Android Head-Units] ant232:
It's a 3.5mm jack but it have four poles. Most off the self mics have 2 or 3 poles so splicing/adapter is needed to get it working.

They are sending me a different type of mic to try, fingers crossed..

---------- Post added at 12:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:53 AM ----------

I tried a Parrot mic in the last HU I had but it didn't solve the problem. I'm going to wait for the replacement mic they are sending me to see how that works.

I'm not 100% sure about this but I believe that the mic in the link is a dynamic mic designed for computers. The mic you need for the car is an Electret mic.
[Android Head-Units] surfer63:
These are universal 3.5 mm jack plug microphones. They have "3 rings" as that allows for head-set configs (mic + speakers) although I do not actually know whether that works.

There are 2 big issues:

- microphone quality (or actually complete lack of quality)

- no noise cancellation. The more expensive car units have active noise cancellation. These units do not have that. Background noise is not filtered out (if you know how noise cancellation works by using 2 microphones).
[Android Head-Units] ant232:
When you plug in the external mic the HU uses both mics which seems odd to me. My hunch is that

1. The mics are very poor quality

2. The mic on the HU is prone to mechanical vibrations which is adding to the problem. I think the VW variant might me more susceptible to these vibrations because of the way the HU fits into the dash

Either way, fingers crossed that the new mic will improve things

---------- Post added at 12:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:08 PM ----------

Sorry, it looks like I just plagiarised your post :)
[Android Head-Units] talroot:
I'm using RCAs... There's limited room behind/in the dash of my truck so I don't feel like trying to cram a DSP in there or moving things around at the moment.

No to the different cable and pc. I had to grind the end down on my cable just to make it fit in the aswc-1 access door. The fact that it worked to detect and upload the firmware makes me think it should work on the other menus as well. I'm happy with how it is now though.

I have an obdII adapter that would NOT work with my older joying headunit and I have not tried it with the new one.

---------- Post added at 09:07 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:58 AM ----------

I had similar issues with my older joying head unit and call quality. I've been told my voice is much clearer now with the new unit. I'm using the external mic that came with mine and it's sticking out the left pillar trim of my truck.
[Android Head-Units] julien_blanche:
If you are experiencing poor built in mic quality, try disconnecting by cutting wire on the motherboard, that way HU will use the external good quality mic. It works flawless on every android based HU's.
[Android Head-Units] strawsy:
Hey all there's a new firmware update that JOYING sent to me mainly to fix the OBDII not working. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eEsiH5N_DWS5C4pLhHUPWV-xmn13uVKJ/view

If you guys could try it out and report any issues. So far it's working fine for me and OBDII and torque work as they should. I will warn that this will delete all yours apps and settings. Directions posted below but you will most likely see errors, just let it run and it should end in success.

Here's joyings directions:

1).Pls download it from your windows computer and unzip it

2). Copy the unzipped files into an empty USB FAT32 or empty C10 SD card

3). Insert the USB into your car radio left side USB connector(the side without Wifi and GPS cable) or unit GPS map slot, then the unit will update automatically

4). When it update, pls do not operate it and just wait it until the screen remind you to move SD card or USB

5). After you upgrade and reboot up succeed, pls click the reset button in the panel
[Android Head-Units] rflores2323:
Dumb question. How do you know which usb to put into? Anyway to test this first to make sure it plugs into correct one? Got it installed by someone and have dual USB plug and not sure which is for the left or right.
[Android Head-Units] strawsy:
I don't know any official way of testing but I don't think it will work at all in the other usb port. So once you have the file on a USB, just plug it in and it should recogize the update and you'll see a pop up about the update. If it doesn't do that then just try the other USB port. Alternatively JOYING said putting the update on the SD card and inserting the sdcard will work as well. My SD card slot is behind the screen on the face of the unit.
[Android Head-Units] surfer63:
Just trial&error. If it doesn't work on one side, it will not do anything.

That means you have to connect it to the other and then it will start.

Simple elimination of options I would say.
[Android Head-Units] GammaPaladin:
So I bought the JY-UOS02N4G and the annoyingly expensive PAC Audio wiring harness with canbus translator to install it in my 2015 Grand Caravan. Got the harnesses spliced together, installed it, everything works fine (Steering wheel buttons and everything), but the touchscreen doesn't respond to touches. Neither do the buttons on the left.

Tried the reset button (Probably 10 or 20 times, while trying other things), tried applying the latest firmware update... No joy. So I guess I'm gonna have to RMA it. Hoping they'll let me keep the wiring harness so I don't have to redo the splicing when the replacement unit comes.

Unless anyone here has ideas on how to fix it?
[Android Head-Units] strawsy:
See if a usb keyboard will work and go into the touch screen calibration. Touchscreen calibration is in the factory settings.
[Android Head-Units] GammaPaladin:
Yeah, did that. Hooked up a usb mouse, got into the factory and developer settings, tried touchscreen calibration, but it doesn't work because the screen doesn't respond to touch. At all. You can bring up the calibration, but it just says "touch this spot!" and of course you can't.
[Android Head-Units] les_garten:
Might be a bad cable. Those cables look almost like IDE cables from a PC.

Maybe you can post som,e good pix of the cable ends and the connectors.

Where are you located?
[Android Head-Units] GammaPaladin:
Here's some pictures of the connector at the "tablet" side, the ribbon cable, and the connector on the ribbon cable. I'm in San Diego north county.
[Android Head-Units] les_garten:
PM me your address, I can probably locate an IDE cable. Which is what I think you have there.
[Android Head-Units] GammaPaladin:
Oh, I see what you're getting at. I appreciate the offer, but I probably have a bunch of old IDE cables in my boxes of computer parts, and if not I could make a quick run to Fry's and get some. But to replace the cable (Or even check to make sure that the other end of it isn't just soldered straight to a circuit board or something) I'd have to take the DIN box apart, and there's a sticker which I'd have to remove over one of the screws, which might cause Joying to get cranky and refuse to RMA it if I do remove it.
[Android Head-Units] les_garten:
Ahh, I see. I thought the ends were readily accessable on both ends. That is definitely an IDE cable.
[Moto G4 Plus Questions & Answers] D3dpixl:
So I was trying out some Android P roms and i wanted to go back to stock. I searched up on youtube what to do and it worked. There was no phone signal so I decided to try updating which bricked my phone. I blank-flashed and now I have no idea what to do. Anybody have an idea on what to do?
[Moto G4 Plus Questions & Answers] strongst:
Have you already checked the several guides like this one https://xdaforums.com/moto-g4-plus/help/solved-unbrick-hard-bricked-dead-t3585016 below your new created thread?

Also within the guides section there's a hard brick guide https://xdaforums.com/moto-g4-plus/how-to/moto-g4-plus-hardbrick-solved-guide-t3657761
[Moto G4 Plus Questions & Answers] D3dpixl:
I have tried the second one you put but not the first. I hope it works
[Moto G4 Plus Questions & Answers] D3dpixl:
I dont think i will be able to recover. My oem is locked and I think thats why I wont be able to recover.
[MTCD Hardware Development] millab:
Hi everyone, I came across a mod on a russian forum and decided to give it a try myself.

My unit:

Eonon GA2171S - MTCE KLD PX5 with 4GB RAM, DSP built in.

The original amplifier chip is a TDA7851A and I have successfully replaced it with a Pioneer MOSFET PA2030A

There isn't a decent datasheet of the PA2030A but from what I have read it has a higher power output of approx 35W RMS and 60W MAX at 4 ohms. The TDA7851A is 28W RMS and 48W MAX at 4 ohms.

Replacement wasn't easy!

1) Disassemble the unit to remove the main board. My unit was especially bad because they used an adhesive silicon glue on every connector which I had to cut to free the parts.

2) Identify the amp chip - it is between the rear headers

3) Remove the old amp chip - I bent the amp chip to snap off the pins so that I could de-solder it easier. I tried with solder wick, but it wasn't working well. In the end I melted each pin and removed with pliers, and then went along each hole and used a solder sucker.

4) Fit the new amplifier chip - ensure it sits in the correct position to attach to the chassis. I found this was easiest by holding the chassis in place while I made the first few solder joints on the board

5) Solder all the pins carefully - You will want to use a fair bit of heat to ensure you don't get dry joints. Visually inspect when done to make sure you don't have any shorts.

6) Reassemble the unit

7) Test!

At this stage I would say the sound quality has improved noticeably but it isn't a huge change. The highs seem a little clearer and there does seem to be a bit more punch when pushing the bass too. I'm still trying to find the ideal DSP and EQ settings. With Flat EQ it sounds terrible as always so make sure you tune it well!

I sourced the part from WWW.UTSOURCE.NET
[MTCD Hardware Development] An92:
This mod is aviable Ford px3 mtcd eonon Ga8161 7.1? I have a tda7851a chip on mb and wadzio mcu mod but my mb not have a dsp.. Thanks.. Best work
[MTCD Hardware Development] millab:
Hi! Yes if you have the same chip I did then it is a direct replacement. It isn't dependent on the DSP
[MTCD Hardware Development] An92:
Thank you very much .. Do I have to remove the mcu patch of widzio in your opinion? I've been looking around for a while now on the internet and talk about adding or changing a capacitor, I currently do not get half of the maximum volume level with mods from wadzio and viper4android
[MTCD Hardware Development] millab:
No you won't need to remove any mod as this just replaces the output stage. Volume probably won't improve, but have you tried the following things?

Factory settings > Voice > System (set to 20)

Factory settings > other > Amp volume (set to 0db)
[MTCD Hardware Development] millab:
Oh sorry and yes it is compatible with any unit running the TDA 7851A chip