[MTCD Android Head Units General] esziszi:
Nice. Dasaita is reliable, PX6 is fast, 4GB/64GB is the max that you can find.

I think that your life would have been easier if you had bought a unit specifically for your car - if they make one. It would have been plug'n'play, literally.

However, of course, it is doable.

Your old 2DIN unit might have the metal cage necessary.

Boot time:

The boot time is way too long. If BAT is always connected, the unit should turn on when ACC is connected and should be ready in maximum 2 seconds. The previous PX5 platform was ready in under 2s, my PX6 unit is ready in less than that. I think you could try with Settings > Extra > Shutdown delay > Auto sleep, to put it in sleep mode, instead of shutdown. PX5 had very low quiescent current, I can tell you that I locked the car for a month and when I started it afterwards, it started without issues, while the unit started in <2s in exactly the state I left it and Waze displaying the map, just as I left it. I'm not sure, but I think PX6 should be at least as good in sleep mode.

Installation:

You need to connect the "Reverse" line to the wire of the reverse light (feu de recul). When you put the car in reverse gear, the light turns on and it also brings the "Reverse" light to +12V. The head unit will sense that and will automatically display the video signal from the "reverse camera" input (one of the yellow RCA plugs that you received with the head unit). It may be labeled "backup", "CCD", "CAM" or something else. The other video inputs (yellow RCA plugs) can be chosen in the menu, probably as "AV In", but only one specific input will be activated and displayed automatically, when you put the car in reverse. That is not a problem, you can test it - activate the "Reverse" line with +12V and connect a video signal (camera?) to each input, until you see the image in the screen. That is your backup camera input.

Also, the backup camera is usually powered from the same reverse light wire, so it turns on only when the reverse light is on.

You have to open the rear light block of the car and measure which wire supplies the reverse light.

The camera power needs + and -. You can get the minus from an exposed screw from the car's metal body, but I recommend to use the two wires that power the reverse light of the car. Make sure that you don't mistakenly connect + and - to the +12V of the backup light and the +12V of some other light (which is at 0V when off). It will work when testing (12-0V), but if the reverse light is on and that other light is on, you'll supply 12-12V to the camera, so 0V, and it won't work.

Also, many cameras are sold with an RCA extension cable that also includes an extra wire at both ends. Or you could buy one. This would help you to bring only one wire from the back of the car to the front, instead of two (video+reverse).

The "Brake" line is for the handbrake, so that the unit allows you to type, watch video etc. only when the vehicle is stationary and the handbrake is up. You can connect it to the line that powers the red "handbrake is on" light on your car dashboard. You don't need to connect it, though. The unit can be configured to allow any operation, even when the handbrake is off.

The "Key1" and "Key2" lines are for steering wheel buttons. If you have an older car, your steering wheel buttons are connected to resistors. Usually two, but sometimes only one wire comes from the buttons. Depending which button you press, the resistance changes (Ohms), that's how the factory radio knows which button was pressed. In these new head units, you can program the existing steering wheel buttons to do almost anything, both for short press and for long press. Very handy.

If you need steering wheel buttons, you should connect those wires to "Key1" and "Key2". If you have only one wire, connect "Key1".

If your car is newer, the buttons inject messages into the car's CAN communication bus. There are CAN bus decoder modules for that, PX6 units can use them, but they are car manufacturer and sometimes model specific.

Powering the unit:

In an ideal case, the car has ISO plugs and the head unit has ISO sockets.

I can't tell from the photos, if Dasaita sent you a cable with ISO sockets.

In any case, one ISO connector is for power and other signals (illumination), the other ISO connector is for the speakers. You can find pin descriptions on the Internet.

If the car doesn't have ISO plugs either, you have to find the pin descriptions for the lines and match them with the head unit's lines.

I recommend soldering the wires and insulating them with heatshrink, not crimping. They will have to live through winter and summer temperatures, also constant vibration.

Antenna cable:

You should check the antenna connector that comes from the car if it is ISO male, because most Chinese head units have female ISO sockets for the radio antenna. Some are Fakra. In any case, you might need an adapter.

Internet access:

With a 3G/4G USB modem plugged into the unit, or Wi-Fi hotspot from your phone.

Bluetooth network sharing will not work, almost sure.

You can install and use the Tasker Android app on your phone to turn on/off the phone Wi-Fi hotspot when it connects/disconnects from the head unit's Bluetooth.

---------- Post added at 03:07 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:03 AM ----------

I think that you should hear/feel a click when you insert the ISO antenna plug properly into the head unit. It won't come out as easily, after that.