[Android Head-Units] bmeek:
subwoofer connection - try it various ways?

On what basis was that suggestion made? It says throughtout your screenshot to go low level input if possible.

I've currently got the A6 Pro's high-level speaker outputs connected directly to my (4) front and rear door speakers. I'm also running an old Infinity BassLink active subwoofer that is (currently) connected to the A6's mono low-level subwoofer output. Because the subwoofer's RCA input is stereo, I plugged the male end of this RCA splitter into the A6's subwoofer output, and ran a stereo RCA cable back to the active sub in the trunk. This setup entirely bypasses the factory amp in my old '98 Lexus ES300, and I must say that the A6 Pro's "ultra" toshiba amp (that ATOTO highlights in their product blurbs) drives my lower-end JBL door speakers very nicely!

Anyway, the subwoofer works well enough connected this way to the A6's sub output, but like [MENTION=10012090]Super_paulie[/MENTION] and [MENTION=3211020]CpTChucky[/MENTION], I'm thinking to try it with the [front or rear?] stereo RCA outputs instead. I had chosen to connect to the subwoofer out because, well, I was connecting a sub, but I also knew there was a software switch in the A6's sound settings where I could turn on/off the sub output and fiddle with the crossover level buttons that I assume/hope are adjusting that Toshiba amp chip that ATOTO brags about. I've read complaints here and on ATOTO's support community site about the mono subwoofer output, the software control, and poor volume control. The sub output does work for me, although sub's volume doesn't automatically track very smoothly with the other speakers (I also have a hardwired remote gain control for my sub to play with, but I don't feel the need to use it much).

So, has anybody here actually tried using the stereo RCA outputs instead of the mono sub output to feed their active subwoofer while also connecting their speakers to the A6's high-level outputs? I do notice that the A6's subwoofer settings software definitely cuts the bass frequencies going to my door speakers according to the crossover level I choose (choices in AICE v9.6 are 80, 120 and 160Hz). I like this separation, but it occurs to me that I may still be able to turn on subwoofer output with a > 80 or 120Hz crossover to the main speakers, while sending the full stereo signal to the sub (which has it's own knob for crossover settings etc). My hope would be that this setup might sound better by giving the active sub's amp a bigger role and yeild a smoother volume adjustment via the head unit.

---------- Post added at 12:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:04 PM ----------

Ah. Yes, once your brightness level settings freeze up (navbar button or Settings > Display > slider), a factory reset appears to be the only, rather severe, "fix". Fortunately for most, the setting defaults to auto-brightness = headlights, which appears to mean that you'll have the ability to set a brightness level for both states [lights on | lights off].

Care to confirm my suspicion that if you now futz with the auto-brightness setting (try out the Time or "Close" options), you'll be unable to adjust brightness henceforth? ; - ).

:fingers-crossed: