yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Android Head-Units] bmeek:
Google Play Protect fail + download & install Netflix

Regarding the A6 Pro and Netflix... A couple of months ago in this thread, [MENTION=3211020]CpTChucky[/MENTION] complained about what I have also experienced: The Netflix app isn't visible in the Google Play Store when accessed from the A6 Pro device (in my case running AICE v9.6). The reason appears to be that the A6 Pro fails Google's Play Protect Certification, and the folks at Netflix, for reasons of their own, don't like that and hide their app from non-certified devices in the Play Store. We should ask ATOTO why not Play Protect Certification, but in the meantime...

Apparently, some devices running Android 5 (Lollipop) are not compatible with more recent Netflix app versions, so Netflix made an app version available to download that runs properly on Android v4.4 - v7.1.2. Here's the Netflix Help Center article with the scoop and the download link: https://netflixhelp.s3.amazonaws.com/netflix-4.16-200217-release.apk.

Given that ATOTO AICE v9.6 is built on Android 6 (Marshmallow), the apk runs fine after the more modern Google Play Protect asks if you'll allow it to. Perhaps this is how [MENTION=9092201]Cavrecon22[/MENTION] got it running.
[Android Head-Units] Cavrecon22:
I'm sorry it took me so long to reply to this I thought my notifications were on. To answer your question, yes my dimmer illumination wire is hooked up. When I turn my headlights on I have noticed the screen dims and then I could adjust the brightness from there.

---------- Post added at 05:49 AM ---------- Previous post was at 05:46 AM ----------

Ever since I started using head-unit reloaded I haven't used Netflix or anyting. I can confirm tomorrow if everything is running as it should be. Normally I would just run Wi-Fi off my phone and connect the Atoto. Then log in through Netflix or whatever.
[Android Head-Units] Cavrecon22:
Netflix is not showing up in the play store. I sideloaded a Netflix apk and it worked.
[Android Head-Units] bmeek:
Is HUR that stable? Using wireless?

No worries on timing - i'm glad you're here. So you and [MENTION=10692143]diggitydog[/MENTION] had said your brightness buttons stopped working... Do they only work with your lights on then? Just curious since I reported the "brightness bug" I had experienced to ATOTO.

Cool. Are you using HUR with USB or Wireless? I had made a half-hearted attempt to install HUR a couple of months ago, but gathered from the xda thread that the wireless mode isn't quite baked yet. It also seemed the current developer had become distracted with other things as multiple versions floated around on the XDA thread and on Play Store. Anyway, since getting a wireless charging smartphone mount, the idea of routinely connecting USB to enable Android Auto is unappealing.
[Android Head-Units] Cavrecon22:
Since I did a total reboot to factory conditions the dimmer works in conjunction with the lights and I can adjust it without the lights on.

I could not figure out the wireless portion so I just use USB with HUR. When I contacted the Dev he wanted me to try an older version of HUR to see if it made any difference. I had already wiped the Atoto by this point.

If a video or pics would help anyone I can do that.
[Android Head-Units] Super_paulie:
Can anyone shed light on this, I'm in the same situation.

If I am to use the rcas for the sub (built in amp), can I still use the high line for speakers at the same time?
[Android Head-Units] Cavrecon22:
I snagged a cheap Rockville 10" sub for my Jeep Wrangler. I have it installed underneath one of the seats. It was suggested to me that I follow the "high level input" wiring for the Atoto. I attached a screenshot of the pdf.
[Android Head-Units] Super_paulie:
Hi thanks but I'm afraid that doesn't help I don't think. Basically I'm looking for info to see if I can use the RCA output and the speaker line output at the same time. Speakers remaining on the line and the sub(built in amp) via RCA, not the sub out, but rear speakers RCA

I guess you would need to use line if you are going direct to a sub without an amp in-between.
[Android Head-Units] Cavrecon22:
I am not good at wiring stereo components by any means so I brought it to a shop. when they did they install they hooked everything up like that. I haven't had time to go back through and look at the RCA inputs or anything. But I plan to this summer.

---------- Post added at 12:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:04 PM ----------

I'll take a look!
[Android Head-Units] bmeek:
why use rear speaker RCA out instead of front?

I'm thinking the answer to your question may require you or me to just go experiment. But I ask you, why would you choose the rear stereo line outputs instead of the front in this situation? Shouldn't they both be the same (assuming your A6's "listening position" settings aren't faded one way or the other)?

Huh? From what I can tell, [MENTION=9092201]Cavrecon22[/MENTION] was either already using his low-level RCA stereo outputs to drive a 2 or 4-channel external amp other than his active sub's... or he [edit: his shop] made the wrong call by using the high-level speaker outputs. Even in the former circumstance, I think I would've used a couple of RCA splitters on the front R & L outs - one stereo pair to the main amp, the same split off stereo pair to the active sub's amp.
[Android Head-Units] Cavrecon22:
The Atoto does cycle through auto and slider brightness when set to headlight and close.
[Android Head-Units] bmeek:
Interesting... I guess reproducing the brightness bug we experienced might be more work for ATOTO than I assumed. I'm glad you didn't need to factory reset again :). Thanks for risking it just to appease my curiosity.
[Android Head-Units] Cavrecon22:
No prob!

At this point I'm assuming it might have been an app that was causing an issue. I was running Nova launcher before with no problems. Ever since I reset everything I've installed less than half the apps I had. I still haven't put Nova back on there.
[Android Head-Units] Super_paulie:
Think you might be right. I don't have the sub yet though, was just speculating.

I have read online that some suggest connecting to the rear, but you are right in that it would make no difference as you could simply fade one way or another, front or rear.

I mean due to the mentioned problems with volume and tracking via the sub out, connecting the active sub to say the "spare" rear RCAs I would then simply ignore the sub control on the unit and set it up directly on the active sub. If that makes sense.

But can you run the line out to front and rear speakers and then also use the rear (or front!) RCAs purely for the sub... I guess that's still the question.

Cheers

Paul
[Android Head-Units] bmeek:
sub RCA vs stereo RCA to powered sub (with no other amp)

[Edit] Please note - the observations in this post most likely don't apply to folks using only the A6's line-level RCA outputs to drive an external amp. It considers the best way to connect a powered subwoofer to an A6 Pro while also using the internal amp and speaker-level outputs to power the main speakers: the mono RCA subwoofer output (as designed by ATOTO) vs. the stereo RCA line-level outputs (as most powered subs can accept).

Well, I've seen such comments and appreciate the criticism of the limited sub/crossover controls offered on the A6, but I haven't personally experienced any bugs relating to the subwoofer output on my A6Y2721-PRB... it seems to work fine in combination with my 4 door speakers directly connected to the A6's speaker-level outputs.

Yes - my test confirmed that one CAN feed an active subwoofer from the stereo RCA outputs (frontR+L or rearR+L) while also driving the 4 other speakers directly using the A6's internal amp and high level outputs.

However, I found that I needed to boost the gain on the active sub a fair bit while using the stereo RCA outputs to get the same kind of bass experience that I get from using the mono subwoofer output plus an RCA splitter with the same speaker configuration. Also, I paid closer attention to the bass volume behavior in both configurations, but I could discern no audible benefit from using the RCA stereo outputs vs. the A6's subwoofer output in terms of volume adjustment or control.

So, I left it on the subwoofer output using the RCA splitter with sub output volume set to "Automatic". As limited as the onscreen subwoofer controls are, I prefer them being functional to none at all and relying only on the active subwoofer's physical controls.

Speculation:

I suspect that the power / voltage from the RCA stereo outputs is diminished while the A6 is also supplying power directly to the 4 door speakers, hence my need to crank up the active subwoofer's gain in this configuration.

Turning on the subwoofer output and selecting a crossover frequency seems to redirect the lower frequencies from the door speakers to the mono subwoofer output. With the subwoofer instead connected to the stereo RCA outputs, I was unable to confirm the same beahvior when I "turned on" subwoofer output to the (disconnected) subwoofer output. I have no idea if the lower frequencies are also clipped from the RCA stereo outputs when subwoofer output is turned on in Sound Settings​

cheers,

-- brian
[Android Head-Units] Super_paulie:
bang on info, exactly what i (and others i presume) needed. Thanks a lot Brian, youve done me a service there.
[Android Head-Units] kramttocs:
Just hooked my unit up to my amp yesterday using the RCA Front outs on the Atoto and even with the gain all the way down I am still a little above what I calculated the amp output voltage as needing to be (5 volts).

Am I missing something?

(Note: I know very, very little about this stuff)
[Android Head-Units] bmeek:
preamp RCA output voltage

So you're saying the A6 Pro's preamp output voltage is a little over 5 volts, and you were probably expecting 2 volts. As I understand it, this is not uncommon nor is it a bad thing. I saw this quick read on the topic a while back: https://www.bestcaraudio.com/does-preamp-voltage-matter/.

BTW, you don't say if you're experiencing any problems from this... are you?
[Android Head-Units] tcbarney:
I was able to fix this issue with help from Atoto Support. I'll post here for posterity, in case someone searches on this problem in the future.

TL;DR: Factory data reset on the A6 fixed the problem.

The Atoto rep suggested I try a factory data reset. I was resistant, because I just couldn't see how that would address what I was seeing, and I didn't want to have to re-download all of my apps and set up everything again. But nothing else was working and Amazon support was absolutely useless from their end.

So I did the reset - from the settings screen and not by pushing the reset button on the front panel.

I initially only loaded the Amazon Music app, figuring to isolate and make sure another app wasn't causing the problem for some reason. When I logged in to Amazon Music, it connected normally. I then went into settings in the Amazon Music app and checked to see the Device ID that had been sent.

It was different from what it had been before the reset. My assumption was that the Device ID was somehow unique to the hardware - perhaps based on a MAC address or serial number. But no, it appears to be a random number. I don't know just how random, since it looks like Amazon was seeing the previous ID from more than one device in the world. But this new number, so far, must be unique. When I power down and then reconnect later, I do not have to re-enter credentials, and I no longer get the "This device is currently authorized to play music from another customer" message.

I've since re-loaded the rest of my apps and it is still working, so I consider it resolved.

Until, I guess, someone else in the world happens to generate the same device ID and start using Amazon Music somewhere out there? Time will tell.

Atoto support was everything others have said. Pretty responsive, and seemed willing to hang in there until we fixed the problem. With the time lag, I'd email in the afternoon and have a response waiting in my inbox the next morning.

I did find it curious that the software factory reset did not erase some things like Bluetooth devices and my sound settings. I did not have to re-pair my phone when it booted up from the reset, and my equalizer changes that I made to Flat were still there. Though the listening position did reset. Curious. I suppose if you really want to clear everything, you need to use the reset button on the front panel?
[Android Head-Units] kramttocs:
Thanks for that link. Didn't realize this was fairly common. No, not experiencing any problems with it - I just expected that I would need to up the gain on the external amp instead of having it all the way down. With it all the way down, is it serving a purpose?
[Android Head-Units] bmeek:
remnants of old settings survive a factory reset? Huh.

If the Amazon Music problem resurfaces, try just going into Settings > Apps > Amazon Music then force stop the app, then .> Storage and delete the app's data. This usually makes an app start up next time as if it was just freshly installed.

That is curious. I have always assumed that the reset button in front is merely a hardware reset / hard reboot in case the software freezes up for whatever reason. I've never had to push it.

I did need to do the factory reset recently (via Settings) to clear a state where I was unable to adjust the screen brightness. Now that you mention it, I may have noticed some remnants of my previous settings afterward... although I do recall having to turn on the subwoofer output again. AICE v9.6 is a pretty highly customized version of Android 6 with a bunch of features not common to Marshmallow, like the whole Qualcomm wi' aptX "Bluetooth1" setup that pairs devices outside of the normal Settings app, can act as a handsfree device for iPhones, etc. It sounds like ATOTO put some of these custom features' data outside of the standard app data location that gets wiped on reset. Go figure.
[Android Head-Units] bmeek:
gain adjustment isn't the same as volume

Sure. An external amp's main role is to deliver a clean signal to your speakers with enough power to maintain the volume level you want without distortion or clipping. That article, in a technical way, said that increasing the input sensitivity (aka "gain") on an amp inevitably adds noise to the input signal. If the input signal is clean and strong, you can and should turn down the gain to enjoy a better signal to noise ratio. Well done!

You can be happy that ATOTO put an amplifier/preamp chip in the A6 Pro that they feel is worth bragging about in their product blurbs: "Ultra powerful Toshiba pre-amplifier inside with higher RMS power output & excellent performance...". I'm glad to hear it's indeed putting out a good strong preamp signal.

In fact, with this very decent internal amp in the A6 Pro, you may well ask if your external amp is beneficial (it depends on the amp in question and the speakers you've got connected to it). My old Lexus has a factory amp that drove all the factory speakers (4 woofers in the doors with 2 tweeters in front and a subwoofer in the rear). When I first installed the A6 Pro, I used an "amp integration" harness to connect the A6 Pro's line-level outputs to my factory amp and speakers.

The result sounded both better and worse than my 20+ year old factory head unit had... The overall clarity and volume seemed better, but I had picked up ground noise and alternator whine along with an audible "pop" whenever the amp was powered on or off. Note: I've learned that this ground noise&whine is common when folks pair any aftermarket head unit with these factory amps in old Lexus and Toyotas. When I bypassed the factory amp and connected the front and rear factory speakers directly to the A6 Pro's speaker-level outputs, the sound was noticeably better still with absolutely no ground noise or power on/off pop.

Since the factory subwoofer was dependent on the bypassed factory amp, I removed it and added an active (powered) subwoofer in the trunk connected to the A6 Pro's subwoofer output. Now the sound was much better all around than the factory setup, but I was on roll by then so I also replaced the original pioneer door speakers with some inexpensive JBL component speakers (separate woofers and tweeters) up front, with matching 2-way speakers in the rear doors. My next step will be to stick sound deadening material around the door speakers and the rear deck above the sub... The old Lexus has pretty good sound insulation for a car of its age, but I mounted those door speakers metal to metal and I'm pretty sure there're audible vibrations happening.

Anyway, I digressed from my point that the A6 Pro's internal amp could conceivably sound better without another external amp between it and your speakers (as in the case of my factory amp). Again, it depends on your specific amp and speakers and subwoofer, etc. What are you working with?
[Android Head-Units] nikosef89:
Hi to all, new to 2din Android units and i want to buy atoto a6 pro as is the best overall. Which model do you recommend is the best to buy? Best atoto a6 pro model?
[Android Head-Units] bmeek:
I went with the A6Y2721PRB (with the physical buttons and no Gesture support). I've been quite happy with it overall. I was torn between this model and the A6Y1021PR (the one with the 10.1" screen and the underlying volume knob), but I ultimately decided that the 10-inch swivel display would be too much and a thief magnet when I occassionally park on the street overnight (but I've heard people really love it).

Regarding gesture controls, I can't comment because I haven't played with that feature. It does appear that the gesture sensor on the A6Y2721PRB-G occupies the space used by the front-facing USB port on the A6Y2721PRB, so there's that but it's no big deal because you still have a front-facing microSD slot for storage and you get 2 or 3 additional USB ports on the back side with cables to position them on your dash, in your center console, glovebox, wherever.

After buying the 7" physical button model, I saw a review on YouTube where the guy had purchased the A6Y2721PR - the 7" model without the physical buttons (only onscreen volume controls). I can't find the link right now because there are lots of A6 review videoes, but he was reluctantly planning to return it because he disliked the touchscreen's characteristic of having the glass surface sitting too high above the underlying pixel display, thereby making it difficult to accurately tap onscreen links when viewed from the angle of the driver's seat (he did point out that this is not an issue on the physical button model I have). His other deal-breaker complaint was the subwoofer volume control. This issue either appears to have been fixed in the AICE v9.6 firmware update since the video was recorded, or it could have been due to his subwoofer amp settings (subwoofer volume works fine for me and my old Infinity BassLink at any rate). He spent the rest of the video lamenting his decision to return it because the A6Y2721PR had made his car's speakers sound way better than his any of his previous head unit(s).

Oh - if your car or truck lacks factory steering wheel controls, you should spend another US $25 for the ATOTO Wireless Steering Wheel Control - model # AC-44F5. I bought this just recently and I like that its volume control is the outer dial (the big missing volume knob!). This remote's wireless receiver plugs into the back of the A6 unit, so you'll need to pull the unit out of your dash to install the remote after your initial installation.

Good luck!
[Android Head-Units] nikosef89:
Thank you very much for your detailed explanation and help. Sure, I want one with buttons because for functionality even if you have your eyes on the road. I am close to buy Atoto A6 pro because it is not a cheap unreliable unit with 100-150 euros, not the cheapest brand models(pioneers, jvc etc) for 250-300 with plenty of problems but something between all of them. Thank you again, I totally agree with your thought.
[Android Head-Units] Lace'n'Pearls:
So, I've decided to sell my unused A6 Pro (A6Y2721PRB) and wait for the new S8 models to come out whenever this virus stuff ends. Does anyone know any more details about the S8 units?
[Android Head-Units] bmeek:
I haven't seen any details beyond the announcing [delaying] article on their mostly-outdated web site.

Do you have the PRB unit sold? Is it listed?
[Android Head-Units] ntbergeron:
Atoto

Hey Eriklanden,

I am having the same problem. What bluetooth file did Atoto give you?

Thanks,
[Android Head-Units] localerhorst:
ATOTO microphone too low problem

Hello everyone,

I own an Atoto car radio device and am seeking for your help since the ATOTO "Mia and me" Service was not able to answer my questions or solve the problems I have with my device.

The most urgent problem is that I cannot use the speakerphone function properly since the microphone will only transfer my voice if I hold it directly to my mouth. An inch further away and nothing can be heard on the other end.

I bought the radio 2 years ago and the warranty is already expired.

In the beginning everything worked out just fine. I could use the speakerphone without problems. Using the internal microphone or a separate external one.

I did not use the speakerphone for quite a long time. And now it is not working anymore.

What I tested: several external micophones (analog, different kinds), the internal one, removing the SD-Card, several different mobile phones, raising the input level in the Gain Menu 1238 - to the highest level

What I suspect: Since the last proper functioning of the speakerphone I installed 2 new firmwares and mcu updates

The microphones themselves are working. And I can be heard if I put my mouth directly over the internal one. So I think a hardware defect can be ruled out.

I tried to set back the updates - this is not possible (according to the MIA service).

I tried setting back to default everything I could find.

Does anything know what I else I could do?

Thank you very much!

Best regards from Germany

Felix
[Android Head-Units] kramttocs:
Thanks a lot for that detail.

This is in an old truck but has recently been gone through and sound/heat mats installed everywhere.

Door speakers are Kicker 46CSS654 components

Amp is a Kicker DXA250.4 - bridging the two channels for each door

Sub is a Kicker Hideaway 8" - not installed yet and will hook directly to the Atoto

Goal is just to be able to heard the music while driving (not for people outside to hear it).
[Android Head-Units] bmeek:
kick'n it!

Sounds like a cool project (the truck). I imagine your audio sounds good and strong now even without the subwoofer installed yet.

I'm curious how you chose to run the RCA cables from the ATOTO to your amp in support of bridging the speakers... I would think the best bet would be from the ATOTO's Front L&R outputs with a Y splitter on the left side going into "AMP 1" R&L, and another splitter on the right side going into "AMP 2" R&L.

I was also thinking this would let you experiment with using the ATOTO's Rear stereo RCA outputs to feed your powered sub vs. the ATOTO's actual subwoofer output, but I gather the Hideaway expects speaker level inputs unless you buy an adapter to support the (usually preferred) line-level RCA inputs. With all the High/Low filter and crossover controls Kicker gives you on both the amp and on the hideaway, I suspect sending the full range stereo signals to both will be cleaner than using the ATOTO's mono subwoofer output with its minimal software controls (even if you have bought the Hideaway option to enable the latter).