yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Android Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] willowen100:
Hi guys

I have Motorola G 4G (Thea) that are trying to flash Lineage OS to alongside with OpenGApps. I have four zip files that I flash in a queue together. Two are the Lineage OS and OpenGApps, another one is an OpenGApps folder containing all my custom settings for the Aroma version that copies to the internal storage, and the last zip includes extra apps that built using the Android Zip File Creator. In regards to the extra apps zip I have some apps being installed to '/System/Priv-app' directory and the remainder installed to '/Data/App'. I want to keep the system apps as I would like to the apps to survive a factory reset or the use of safe mode. The problem I have is once the ROM boots up most of the apps are displaying the popup box 'stopped working' despite clicking the Wipe Cache & Dalvik button in TWRP at the end of flash. Is making a queue causing the problems and instead should I be wiping the Cache & Dalvik between each zip flash?

Many thanks

Will
[Android Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] willowen100:
Bump.
[Android Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] Trex2017:
the only rule you have to follow is to flash the rom file first all other things can be flashed after that

skip the 3rd file and check

and which version of gapps are you using

last file probably won't cause problems
[WebOS Software and Hacking General] kpisacic:
Hi,

Is there application or method how to access videos from LG TV WebOs - available as Samba/SMB shares on NAS?

I am not talking about DLNA, but direct SMB access.

Thank you!

br,k.
[WebOS Software and Hacking General] alecuba16:
i'm also interested in this feature because my router only supports samba smbv1 not dlna.

If you find something, please post here.

I know that lg webos can be rooted and maybe make it automount drivers with someking of scripting.

But I don't now how to make the integrated media player detect this mounted folder.

There is some "key" or "reseved" folders to make it detectable? Maybe /media?
[WebOS Software and Hacking General] gsowner:
Not possible, the best i have found is to use plex server on the nas and the xplay app on the tv, xplay can force plex to play direct without transcoding.

When watching 4K videos it can become stuttering when using a cable because the nic is limited i think to 100m\b,

So the only way to get arround this is to use wifi connection but only the 5Ghz band the 2,4ghz band is too slow.
[WebOS Software and Hacking General] xtreme_protector:
Well, it is possible if you are rooted and you can compile kernel modules. I've done it on webos 2.x.

Probably simpler is to use NFS. The NFS Module is built in to the kernel on my TV with webos 2.x. You only need the mount.cifs executable. Again, I've done this too on my TV.
[WebOS Software and Hacking General] garbb:
Try this?

https://ddscentral.org/2018/01/unusual-linux-devices-hacking-tvs-part-4-instructions/
[WebOS Software and Hacking General] hazardc:
I have no trouble using the stock pictures and video app on webOS to stream 100GB+ 4k HDR videos. (uj6200)

[
[Amazfit] Quinny899:
This is a really simple app to add a quick settings tile to your phone displaying the current battery percentage and charging state of a connected Pace or Stratos device

Features

- Shows battery as a percentage, with an icon

- Shows whether it's charging in the icon

- Tap or long tap to open the Amazfit App (best used with AmazMod as that has better battery info)

Usage

- Install the latest release APK on your phone:

adb install -r AmazfitBatteryTile-1.0.apk

- Add the quick settings tile like you would any other using the settings

Source Code

This app does not have a main UI, so it will not appear in the app drawer. If you wish to uninstall it, you must do so via your phone's settings
[Amazfit] SM26:
Hey looks nice

Could you please elaborate about AmazMod?
[Amazfit] Quinny899:
Read the link, it's not my project
[Amazfit] SM26:
oh

sorry about that

I saw on the web it's by some Italian dev, I thought it was you.

I'll go dig a bit on GitHub

Thanks for sharing
[Amazfit] lawrnz:
Wow. I've been looking for this feature which I thought was missing in the Watch Droid app. Thanks for sharing. Simple but useful.
[MTCD Hardware Development] Twain0:
Hi all

Bought a XTRONS MTCD head unit for my Audi TT MK2 (PX5, PB76ATTARP, Android 6.0, Octa-Core, 2GB RAM) and paired it with active OEM system. The sound was over all extremely disappointing so I decided to upgrade my car with the Audi Plus sound system, being specifically designed by Alpine for the TT MK2. Sound still appeared thin and had been lacking very much of bass despite of strong 200mm bass drivers and 400W amp. All integrated equalizers (also Viper) did not help to give the system sufficient deeps.

Made some investigations and found the audio design in the XTRONS head unit to be a complete disaster. The cinch outputs are actually not capable to drive low impedance amp inputs such as present with the Alpine amp. The rather low impedances of the Alpine's inputs do interact with the output decoupling capacitors in the head units audio design giving a high pass effect with pretty high cut-off frequency (somewhere between 100 and 200 Hz! ).

Fortunately the cinch audio signals are extracted with an external breakout board including an audio buffer section. The affected four decoupling capacitors (C156-C159, next to output connector of board) can easily be replaced with larger capacitors without disassembling the head unit. Just cut open the shrink hose (keep it and reattach later with adhesive tape) and replace the capacitors with a thin solder iron. This step needs a certain degree of solder experience but will be provided for sure by service guys of local Radio/TV store if you do not want to take the challenge.

The original capacitors are SMD 0603 size and have capacity of 0.8...1uF. I replaced them with 0603 capacitors with 4.7uF and 10V voltage strength. You can get such parts from Ebay, Mouser, Conrad Electronic, Distrelec, Farnell and many other places.

Cannot show picture here since I'm new to the forum. But can send picture of the breakout board with affected capacitors marked.

After capacitor replacement the bass is now very present with deep and punchy lows. The difference before-after is like night-day :cool: Still wondering how these Chinese guys did mess up the audio design by saving 0.003 cent per head unit...

The measure might be applicable also to other/older head units such as PX3 and other Android head units. As I e.g. remember, the PX3 has also a weak audio design with no dedicated output buffers for cinch signals. There the signals are directly broken out between audio codec and amp section and the capacitors in those signal paths might also be too small to serve low impedance loads with deep bass.

BR

Twain
[MTCD Hardware Development] eagle88123:
Hello,

Got same issue can you pls share the the pictures ? Pls email on eagle88123@yahoo.com.

Thank you.
[MTCD Hardware Development] Oberbergler:
Hi,

thank you for your explanation. I've also weak bass. Could you please send me pictures of your work to oberbergler2012@gmail.com

Regards
[MTCD Hardware Development] eagle88123:
Just to confirm that I received the picture that you send.

Thank you very much.

Your the man!!
[MTCD Hardware Development] crator1349:
Hi can you send to me as well? Metalmeddler1349@gmail.com or if someone who can post them please post?
[MTCD Hardware Development] Twain0:
Can you post the picture here?

Thanks :)
[MTCD Hardware Development] Oberbergler:
Sure :)
[MTCD Hardware Development] Twain0:
Thanks!
[MTCD Hardware Development] marchnz:
Note that standard MTCD coupling capacitors to preamp and RCA are 2.2uF, also to onboard TDA power AMP are 10uF.

Not sure what your unit is from the image provided, looks like an additional signal board.

Requested MOD move this thread to correct MTCD Hardware section.
[MTCD Hardware Development] ab1702:
Is this item that is now pictured the one that is attached to the 4 audio cables inside some black heatshrink with a connector on it?

If so I’ll be doing this mod as I have put my Audi concert radio back in at the moment while my xtrons is being repaired and I can tell the difference straight away even though I thought the sound with my xtrons(GS) unit was decent.

Thankyou for figuring this out
[MTCD Hardware Development] homer.ali:
Bump! Interested in the answer to the question above!
[MTCD Hardware Development] lysaer:
I have a joying unit currently and was looking at upgrading to an Xtrons but am worried I might suffer the same issue

do you know the width of the capacitors you purchased, was looking at these

https://www.mouser.co.uk/Passive-Co...Z1yx4aw4Z1yzmou6Z1y95kco&Keyword=0603&FS=True
[MTCD Hardware Development] dj-clark:
Xtrons PX5 have much better sound quality than Joying unis... I had Joying and now have Xtrons... Much better bass output and overal quality.
[MTCD Hardware Development] lysaer:
It does seem though that the original poster still suffered this weak bass issue with an Xtrons PX5 unit
[MTCD Hardware Development] Hyundai2005:
Thanks
[MTCD Hardware Development] typos1:
Interesting, always found MTCB/C and MTCD/E units to have too low a signal on the RCA connectors to properly drive my factory Bose amp, although 7floor's mod overcomes this. MTCD PX3 units wont be any different as they simply have a different processor board, everything else is the same..

He said "Xtrons" so I guess he has a GS unit.
[MTCD Hardware Development] Twain0:
Hi there

Yes, its the pcb in the heatshrink, sitting outside the actual head unit.

And again, the sound improvement has been REALLY obvious after the mod. At least with my setup.

Sold the car meanwhile so the topic went out of focus a litte.

BR
[MTCD Hardware Development] bossman4:
I sent back my XTRONS unit when it died. Before it died, I was having a hard time before it quit to match levels with my OEM Bose amp unit in my Mazda Miata. Everybody that does a workaround on the replacement by using the speaker outputs of the new head unit rather than the RCA outputs utilizing a device like SCOOSCHE SLC-4. I am looking at another unit now from EONON that has a DSP chip in it. I asked the EONON folks the question about the line output levels. Here was their answer below.

Dear Customer,

Nice day.

Thank you for your interest in our products, pls kindly refer to the specification below:

1. The pre-amp voltage of GA2171S is: 2.0Vrms±0.2V

2. RCA audio output voltage: 2.0Vrms ± 0.2V

3. Other audio output voltages such as subwoofer are: 1.5Vrms±0.2V

4. The resistance value of audio output / (horn resistance value): 4Ω

5. Signal to noise ratio: ≥-65DB

I am not sure how to interpret this apparent good news (2.0Vrms±0.2V) with questions like balanced and unbalanced inputs. Sound like the replaced BOSE head unit has unbalanced outputs. Not sure how that affects these specifications..
[MTCD Hardware Development] typos1:
All MTCB/C/D/E headunits have that sort of voltage on the RCAs, this wasnt enough for my Bose system that like yours uses the speaker wires, but I did [MENTION=322215]7floor[/MENTION]'s sound mod on my MTCC unit and the pre amp function sorted the problem , I m about to do [MENTION=8817431]Wadzio[/MENTION]'s audio mod (same as 7floor's but via software) which also has a pre amp setting, cant say if the DSP unit will be better but see these 2 threads :

https://xdaforums.com/and...tcd-e-t3823075

https://xdaforums.com/and...p-com-t3803557

and general audio improvement discussion here :

https://xdaforums.com/android-auto/...d-e-sound-improvement-options-advice-t3849317
[MTCD Hardware Development] rroblesleal:
PX3

Hi, I have the Audi A3 PX3 headunit from Xtrons. Does this also works with that unit? Also the capacitors, whats the difference between the 4.7UF and the 10UF? I really don’t know anything about capacitors so I don’t know which one to choose. I have the Bose sound system and It also has really weak bass.

Thank you!
[MTCD Hardware Development] haakjoringskod:
PA79ATTIP

Hi everyone, did anyone else try this mod and can share his/her experience?

I have exactly the same issue with my Xtrons PA79ATTIP Android 9.0 which I put into my Audi TT MK2.

Anyone here who could assist me with some detailed explanations. To be honest, I am absolutely new to this.

However, I would be happy to get back a decent level of audio quality.

Btw. is there anyone else having issues with noise coming from the speakers when you turn on the light and/or driving faster?

I was reading this can be handled with noise filter adapters (maxxcount NF-Entstörfilter)?
[MTCD Hardware Development] skezza:
In my Audi, the bass did feel disappointingly weak, until I activated Loudness. Wow. The sound quality difference is insane. It's gone from being a weak little radio to being a beast. Very surprised. It might be worth a try.
[MTCD Hardware Development] haakjoringskod:
Thank you!

I already tried it out, but it just helped a little bit. I am still suffering loss of performance compared to the original Audi radio.

Tawin01 said even the Viper4Android wasn't making any improvement. Does anyone else have experienced here equal results?
[MTCD Hardware Development] typos1:
What do you mean by "weak performance" ?

Do you have the standard set up, the amplified rear or the Bose setup ?
[MTCD Hardware Development] haakjoringskod:
Amplified rear setup

It is hard to explain, but it sounds very thin and sharp compared to my previous setup.

I do have the amplified rear setup. I also get sound from behind, but as I have described above it does not provide a fully smooth output as before. The subwoofer quality is missing some detail.
[MTCD Hardware Development] typos1:
Are you sure the amp for the rear speakers is turning on ? Sounds like it isnt.
[MTCD Hardware Development] haakjoringskod:
Well when I set the EQ Fader all to the back, all of the rear speakers were having sound. So I guessed everything was working. Otherwise I wouldn't have any sound at all, wouldn't I?

However, I noticed that Xtrons says that it was necessary to make some modification to the wiring, in case it wasn't a Bose setup. Since I got sound from the rear speakers I assumed it worked without any wire modifications.
[MTCD Hardware Development] typos1:
The rear speakers will work if theyre connected to speaker wires, but if the amp isnt turned on they wont be amplified, you need to find out what wire on the car triggers the rear amp, Google it I m sure theyll be loads of info, its a common set up with VW/Audis, then you can verify if the amp is coming on or not.
[MTCD Hardware Development] haakjoringskod:
Unfortunately I cannot share any links here, but I was following the Xtrons instructions called "Enable Sound Out of Audi Rear Speakers".

When it comes to the step "If your vehicle does not have the BOSE system, but has the audio port as the below picture shows, you will still be required to make some modifications to the wire connections. If you do not, your rear speakers will NOT have sound." I am completely sure this does not apply to me. I mean I have neither a Bose setup, nor do I have "the audio port as the below picture shows". I simply connected all the ISO cables and RCA cables as described by Xtrons. And there were no cables from my car left after I have connected everything together.

All in all this leaves me with these two issues:

1) Humming / whining noise when turning on the lights / starting the car

2) Lack of audio quality

I will try to use a filter for the first issue. Regarding the sound quality I will give the sound mod a try. However, I also read about a PAC SNI-35 Line-Out Converter. But I do not know how to connect these to my Xtrons headhunt…
[MTCD Hardware Development] typos1:
I wouldnt take too much notice of Xtrons.

The humming is a ground loop issue, you ll need a ground loop isolator, they are threads in this and the related MTCB units forum, also on google, its a common Audi issue.

For the sound issue you need to establish that you deffo have amplified rear speakers and that if so that the amp is deffo coming on, if you have one and it isnt coming on it should solve your issue.
[MTCD Hardware Development] haakjoringskod:
I have solved the humming and whining noise issue with two filters purchased from maxxcount. Probably others would have done the same job. But those worked for me!

Also I have installed the patched sound mod. It got a little bit better, but I am still not perfectly satisfied. Do you think an additional plug and play DSP Amp (cf. androidautoshop) would do a good job here?
[MTCD Hardware Development] typos1:
I think you should check that your amp is actually working, as I said before.
[MTCD Hardware Development] pedracca:
Sorry for the thread resurrection. I have an Xtrons (GS) and an Audi, and the whine noise is driving me crazy. I've relocated fifty times the small RCA board and made a case for it, and despite having got rid from the whine noise with stopped engine, it is always there again as soon as I turn on the engine.

I've been searching on the forum and I'm trying the ground loop isolator solution but I am not sure which type should I buy. Are you speaking of an RCA ground loop isolator or one for the battery feed to the HU? Could you recommend an specific model so I don't mess up?

If it is a RCA type that is needed, do they harm sound quality?

If it is for the battery current, where is it connected? After the quadlock? Only on battery + or ACC too?

Thank you!
[MTCD Hardware Development] typos1:
I m sorry I not certain what type of ground loop isolator you need because I ve never needed to use one, I would guess a battery one but I m not certain, google it too, I think its a common problem.
[MTCD Hardware Development] pir8man:
An RCA type ground loop isolator will definitely loose sound quality. They are a band-aid to hide the problem, not a fix. It is strongly recommended to find and solve your ground loop issue instead.

Power based loop isolator should be connected to either or both your 12v power sources (batt/acc). If only one is causing the ground loop, you only need to do that one.

In the process of testing, with a multimeter, for where you might want a power isolator, you will have all the information to actually solve your ground loop and can solve it without adding a power filter.

I threw power isolators on both of my input voltages and they did not solve a thing for me. I also ruled out my RCA cables being the cause of my ground loop, so the ground wire around the RCAs hack would not work for me either. Tomorrow I am pulling my multimeter out of storage to do some proper ground loop diagnosis.
[MTCD Hardware Development] pedracca:
Thank you! That's what I suspected with RCA filters after googling it. I've spent a considerable amount of money and time upgrading the equipment recently (the only thing left untouched are rear speakers and HU) so I'd like to avoid them.

Problem got really worse after upgrading, I had whines before with factory setup, but they were solved relocating the RCA board the op is referring to. Not anymore, whatever I do with the board, once the engine is on the whine kicks in (it is quiet with engine off). Although all the googling I made points out an installation problem with amp ground and/or cable routing, it is worth noting that I installed a kit sold by Audi (manufactured by Alpine) that uses all the factory cabling, only the components themselves where changed, so I am assuming it is not an amp ground or cabling problem.

I only know the basics using a multimeter, so I'll try to isolate the problem connecting and disconnecting the different elements that are connected to the HU (front and rear cam, usb wifi module, etc.). I'll connect the factory HU too to test if it is 100% HU related or not.

Also, bought a power filter made by Sinuslive brand, don't know if it will be any good yet. I only have one so I'll connect both the HU battery and acc to the filter and see how it goes.

If I find out anything interesting I'll report back.

Please, keep us posted. Thank you again.
[MTCD Hardware Development] pedracca:
I've been trying to find a solution this weekend.

- First I went one by one disconnecting all the extra devices (front and rear cam, antenna, usb, etc.). I only left the minimum cabling to get sound. This didn't solve it. If I unplugged the RCA's, sound and hiss went away, so it seemed like the HU itself was guilty.

- I then tried the factory HU = Absolutely no hiss, perfect sound. That made it clear the android HU is guilty.

- Finally tried the filter, and that did the trick ...almost.

The hiss is indeed reduced, but it is still there. I'd say it's been cut by two thirds. It has gone from completely unbearable to bearable, but it is still noticeable and while this will be a short term solution, I suppose I'll end up buying a head unit from any reputable brand, as this looks like the only way to get rid of the hiss.

Good luck with yours.
[MTCD Hardware Development] typos1:
Its deffo something on the car that cause it cos its only Audis that have this problem, other cars dont. It would be good to try and find out what is different about Audis that CAN cause this (it doesnt always happen to every Audi).

Those "reputable" brands you talk of, they have mostly the same components inside, the amp chips for instance.
[MTCD Hardware Development] pir8man:
I ran through some ground tests Found that my Amplifier ground point has 0.1 Ohm resistance. Well within the 0.5 Ohm suggested limit for a ground point.

Then I moved to testing the head-unit, where the OEM harness ground was 1.1 Ohm. Way too high. I found a nice grounded bolt behind the unit with a 0.1 Ohm resistance (Equal to the amplifier, so no ground-loop). Temporarily connected the stereo ground to this and found it cut about half of my engine noise! I cut the OEM ground wire and ran it to the better ground location.

Next thing to test for was a dirty(noisy) positive wires. Sure enough, I ran a fused wire directly to the battery and temporarily connected the yellow and red positive wires from my radio from the new battery lead. This resolved all my extra noises. I finally have clean sound coming from my speakers!!

Based on the research I did before heading out to test my car, I found that it is not uncommon at all to find that the OEM ground is insufficient for a higher-powered aftermarket stereos. Manufacturers only put in a 'just good enough' ground wire/ground point for the low-power OEM unit.

The same is true with power leads. The OEM unit can use dirty power leads and never pass the noise to your speakers. Where an aftermarket unit will amplify this extra noise and pass it on to your speakers/amplifier.
[General Questions and Answers] vkarunakar:
Hi Everyone i had tried to install many custom rom in Mini M8S II conf Mini M8S II 4K Smart TV Box Android Amlogic S905X Quad Core Processor 2gb ram 16gb rom but unable to go head in downloding section of ODB Data even tried mod apk won't resolved

please anyone find solution for this...:highfive:
[Xiaomi Mi Mix 2 Questions & Answers] nabeelmoeen:
Hi,

since updating to MIUI 9.5.6 (Oreo) ROM on my Mix 2 I have been facing some weird issues. I already posted about the lack of fast charging anymore (another thread on the forum - unfortunately it appears I'm the only one experiencing this).

Yesterday, after a long time I decided to plug in my earphones to listen to some music (using the OEM USB-C to audio jack adapter that came with the phone) and realized that the audio was only coming out of one of the earpieces.

I have tried un-plugging/re-plugging, inverting the USB C cable, restarting the phone even a different adapter, but in all cases the audio only comes out of one earpiece.

interestingly with the other adapter (which I have used only twice before) the earpiece that works is switched, so instead of getting audio in the right earpiece with the OEM adapter, when I use the other adapter the audio comes through the left earpiece.

just putting it out there in case someone else experienced any issues since their upgrade or have suggestions on how to fix this issue.

I would rather not try a factory reset … but willing to downgrade to Android 7.x if there is a way to do that without losing all data.