[Shield Tablet Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] mprudic0404:
Shield tablet battery

not sure that i can post pics yet, but wanted to share.

the lg V521 tablet (t-mobile) battery fits with room to spare. its rated at little over 4000MaH , but its possible to double stack two and cram it in.

ill get pics up when possible, but wanted to share some info that i cant find ANYWHERE on the internet.

-Shield 32GB tablets came with different batteries and capacities. (first one i took apart had a 5100Mah , second one i had apart had 5200Mah)

-- batteries were made by different companies, and the 5100Mah has a in-line fuse. ( the 5200 did NOT )

------i will update with 16GB soon, have a few to tear apart.

-the rear plastic cover is molded , to hug the battery, and can be reduced in thickness (around the battery cell) if using a larger/thicker cell. (look close and youll see the cover has additional thickness bumps to keep pressure on cell)

-Kapton tape is your friend when replacing lipo cells, (use minimum thickness 2+mils)

- the lipo cell PCB used in these tablets DOES NOT GIVE ANY CAPACITY INFO to the main board. (so far Ive determined its a switching current limiter, with thermal protection. -- more to come)

-ive tried this on one device, and ill post with more when i try a few more, but with just a lipo and voltage protection board, the tablet will power on IF its plugged in. (red black wires ONLY)

(note, if turned off, the device wont power on again a second time)

- the LTE REAR COVER has an antenna (near pen slot) that is is destroyed if removed. (copper trace sealed in polyimide film) no matter how easy or soft you try to remove it. (i tried many ways, but the network analyzer doesn't lie)

- while the tablet is apart, replace the THERMAL PASTE. most thermal pastes only have a year or two before there worthless. (they still work years later, but at VERY reduced rates)

-I like fujiPOLY ultra 17.0W/MK .5mm pads, but this is personal preference. (1mm is better if you don't have patience)

-board repair/rework doesn't phase me, its the depth of software and tweaks that slows me down.

-i recommend when replacing the battery, do all the rework (swap out PCB) and then before you reseal/tape the PCB and solder it back in, charge the battery.

cool INFO for any single cell lipo-- " Fenix ARE-X1 " is the ONLY lithium charger Ive ever seen that will charge up to 4.20V and then HOLD the cell at that voltage. this is VERY UNUSUAL but can be dangerous if your not paying attention. lithium cells (single) are happiest in the mid voltage range, and keeping the cell at its peak/max rating causes massive stress. if you forgot that you put a battery on the charger, and left it, i suspect it would eventually vent or burst into flames. PS; you cant stop a thermal run-a-way lithium fire.

charging a cell to its max 4.2volts is the only way to get a real "TRUE" capacity out of it. this also limits the life of the cell, and counts as a full cycle , meaning it shortens the life of it. (4.20 volts PLUS/minus 0.09 volts- or... its possible to get 4.29V)

VERY FEW COMPANIES DO THIS , and most cordless items that are lithium powered , charge each cell to a hair under 4.2volts (4.19? or lower) as it seriously extends the life of each cell.