yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Android Head-Units] pounce:
Since you will be mounting heatsink(s) to a heat spreader that is smooth (not like the other one that has low fins) you have some flexibility. I don't have one like you, but you can measure the depression and find a heatsink that fits. I use ones like the image. But as others have mentioned you could try ones meant for Pi since they are probably easy to find. You can always cut them also if you have a hacksaw and file. I just stick as many as I can reasonably fit.
[Android Head-Units] surfer63:
I have the same for my 3 RPIs. I already thought about the idea of just gluing the 6 I have left onto the current plate. But I'm not sure whether it's a good idea. :)

I had not even thought of the idea that one might fit inside the dent. thanks.
[Android Head-Units] pounce:
It's not rocket science... well... maybe ;)

You just want to radiate as much heat as possible away and that plate looks a bit thin. Anything is better than nothing really if you use thermal paste or glue.

I think take edit's advice on a fan. Even a small fan anywhere to move air out of the case will help. You are creating surface area with the fins on heatsink. Without moving the air there is only so much you can do.
[Android Head-Units] edit:
These are too small... The effiency is low... I can't advise on using those. Yes, better then nothing but not good...
[Android Head-Units] pounce:
Just to be clear I am not using just a single. Out of curiosity, why do you believe the efficiency is low and low compared to what? They are copper.
[Android Head-Units] rotorocks:
Hi,

I also use this little copper ram heatsinks for the 5009 model.

They are 10x10mm and doesn't fit in to the tiny dent where the SOM is.

I put 5 of these on the Metal plate and 1 on the FM tuner (because i had one left)

I also cut a big hole on top for a 140mm noctua fan that blows air into the unit.

The fan is running with 9 Volts and is very silent. (can't hear it even if the engine is off)

The CPU temp is never more than 45-50 °C even in hot Summer days.

Gesendet von meinem SM-G955F mit Tapatalk
[Android Head-Units] edit:
disclaimer : I am not criticising here, don't get me wrong, I am just trying to help you (and everyone else) and advising based on my own experience.

I know that you are not using a single one because I've been there, had the same idea. Then from experience I know that the aluminium and copper don't get along in the real world (corrosion) and bought some aluminium small heatsinks 15x15x15mm. It was definitely a step forward but it was not enough.

picture here : https://xdaforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4121306&d=1492810229

I've moded another unit for a friend using a bigger heatsink made for computer chipsets 65Lx45Hx35H mm and the effiency was a lot better, temp were lower... that was to be expected given the bigger heatsink but at the time of my 1st mod I did not find a bigger heatsink and I had to work with what I had.... also I kinda underestimate the amount of heat that the little CPU puts out.

Now with the data above I can tell you that the small heatsinks (copper or aluminium) do not offer the same efficiency of a bigger aluminium one. There is nothing wrong of using those but I would advise you of using something bigger for better/ faster heat transfer.
[Android Head-Units] pounce:
If you have some specific product suggestions that might help future readers. I think it's hard for a typical person to find (or really just decide on one) a good heatsink online and not everyone has a closet full of parts. Both of the available SoM's are different and the 09 one makes it a easier to add sinks on the plate since its smooth.

Fin Pin heatsinks like the ones I posted in the picture are significantly more efficient over typical fin and copper over aluminum even more especially for small chips.
[Android Head-Units] edit:
I can't recommend a specific heatsink but what I installed for my friend's unit (an 5009) was looking like this :

https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB10KSGQVXXXXbZXpXXq6xXFXXXq/Gdstime-38-38-30mm.jpg_640x640.jpg

but with different dimensions (specified in the previous post).

You can find lots of aluminium heatsinks online... the only problems is that it takes a long time till you find the right dimensions.

True ! But when it comes to heatsinks, bigger is always better :)

(but you need to pay attention to the weight that can strain the SoM)
[Android Head-Units] pounce:
The ones I posted are 14mm in all directions:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BWXW6E

Since they come 8 in a package you can install them in various ways vs a larger solution. Also, since we are mostly installing these to another heatsink/spreader there is less to split hairs about. The spreader is helping up apply more heatsinks. Otherwise you remove the spreader and replace it with a giant plate.

I have some single din units now so I picked something I thought would fit with a fan.
[Android Head-Units] Rated RR:
I just wasted 7 days with Joying support on exactly the same thing. I was recording proving YouTube videos and so on...

The problem is demonstrated in the first reboot after the "Google Play Services" gets updated to the latest version.

Then today, I read through this thread and in the same time asked from the support the procedure for complete wipe.

Anyhow, it seems that any firmware upgrade requires full factory reset.

Without it, there are only bunch of problems with this unit.
[Android Head-Units] biggy238:
I'm on the May 8 rom, and I just noticed the screen is darkening with the change of vehicle speed. It darkens at <5mph and brightens at 15mph. I'm not sure if it's time based at all, but it was 6:35pm.
[Android Head-Units] TransAmMan:
That almost sounds like you're having a car alternator problem. Lower engine rpm, lower the voltage especially if you have things on like air conditioning, etc.

---------- Post added at 10:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:41 AM ----------

With the large heatsink and 100mm fan I installed in my double din 8" unit, mine staying around 32C to 40C, nice and cool. I have another one of these units with the 5009 board that I'll be installing this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004QS0LB0/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It may be a bit overkill but fits perfectly. I'm also installing a fan rpm limiter to 1800rpm so it's extremely quiet.
[Android Head-Units] pounce:
Big fan. Half a pound. How are you going to mount that?

I would say its overkill, but if it meets your cooling needs... who cares. You could look heatsink and fan combos for northbridge cooling. A bit smaller in some cases and with a larger flat bottom you can glue.
[Android Head-Units] Rated RR:
I'm also thinking about mounting the heatsink with a fan, but I'm afraid the vibrations would loose the thermal glue after some time and let the cooler free doing all the damage inside the unit.

Aren't you guys afraid of that?
[Android Head-Units] pounce:
That arctic thermal glue is no joke, but yea, there is a risk. I go with heatsinks and fan attached to the case instead to reduce risk.
[Android Head-Units] TransAmMan:
Yeah there's a thick heat sink on the bottom and with all the cooling fins it's heavy. I'll be using thermal glue but I'm also good at fabricating stuff. I'll make a couple rods that use up some of the unused side mounting holes of the radio case. Even without adding brackets, this fan fits really snug. It can't fall over or slide around.
[Android Head-Units] Rated RR:
It seems to me that least risky solution is to mount some big fan at the metal case, maybe drill some more holes if existing ones are not enough.

I am not sure how light or heavy passive coolers would behave in vibrations, though, plus it obviously differs from car to car, and the driving surrounding area. However, light passive coolers would definitely less affect motherboard physics.
[Android Head-Units] pounce:
Yes, but you don't need a big fan. You just need A fan. A small fan is adequate to move air. There is a limit on the airflow possible. No need to do like this even if it's like super macho:

[IMG="fAAAAn"]https://a.disquscdn.com/uploads/mediaembed/images/4279/4894/original.jpg[/IMG]
[Android Head-Units] biggy238:
The lamp switch is off, and the tactile buttons illuminate as the screen dims at 5mph (not rpm dependant) There are no other indicators of a voltage issue.

I'm sitting here idling in broad daylight, and the lights are not illuminated, and the screen is bright.
[Android Head-Units] luciusfox:
To me it sounds like your car is trying to do something fancy with headlights/DRL/ambers/dash when it crosses some speed threshold. See if the input voltage on the ILL wire matches the screen illumination state.
[Android Head-Units] sanangel:
Can someone with the version of May 25 that has "Backlight current adjustment" activated make a copy of "car settings" and share it here?

I do not have it activated and I want to try to see if replacing the application activates the option or not .. thank you in advance ...
[Android Head-Units] joshnat:
What are your ideas about additional​ cooling for the 6021? It already has fins on its heatsink but I'm skeptical that it's enough by itself. Would adding just a fan likely be enough or should we take off the OEM heatsink and replace it as well?
[Android Head-Units] edit:
Just wrote extensively on the how to cool the units subject in my Q&A thread (scroll at the end, point 53) https://xdaforums.com/showpost.php?p=72525249&postcount=2

Put a lot of hints, info and starting pointers.... of course a lot of more things can be added to what I have said, a lot of things could be explained in more detail but for starters there are enough info, ideas in there to get you started.

Do NOT remove the existing SoM heatsink unless you have extensive experience with building a new one that can fit and properly cool all the chips that need to be cooled in a 6021 SoM (3 chips to be precise).
[Android Head-Units] TransAmMan:
Excellent write up.
[Android Head-Units] edit:
Thank you !

Went overboard and added more on the subject.... in the meantime
[Android Head-Units] pounce:
Thanks for doing that. I do think the fan recommendations are probably on the too large side. Of course putting the thing in a wind tunnel isn't going to hurt it, but even a 20mm fan is likely enough. The 40mm noctua is what I have and I happen to think its overkill. I just like the brand.

I might almost suggest it could be a worthwhile project to test some simple solutions to help future owners. Something like using a Pi 5v 30mm fan running from one of the USB headers without heatsinks. The idea would be to prove a minimum threshold for heat and ease of install. Keep the cost down and make it easy to install. Not everyone needs 2 USB ports.
[Android Head-Units] luciusfox:
Why do you think it would cost the user a USB port to tap into its power? USB spec is for 500 mA. 5v fans can draw as low as 70 mA, leaving lots of power available for whatever you plug in to the USB port. Even if you put on a 300 mA vacuum cleaner fan, most usb peripherals will draw less than 200 mA.
[Android Head-Units] edit:
I recommended these fans because :

1. high quality

2. long warranty - 6 years

3. rated for 150.000 hours... I'm thinking a fan should last at least 5 years (~20.000 hours) in not so ideal conditions (dust, cold, heat)

4. very quiet not great airflow but more then adequate for task at hand

5. if you opt in drilling a lot of holes on the top steel case the airflow will be impacted negatively so having a bigger fan helps to compensate

6. if you opt for an magnetic dust filter it will also impact the airflow in a negative way so again having a bigger fan helps

7. also having a bigger fan help with the amp heatsink cooling

20mm fans are usually high speed and noisy.... and I did not want that. For instance a 20mm to be able to push the same amount of air that an 80mm does at 1200rpm needs a lot of speed... at least 2500rpm if not more... it depends on the blade design so it's hard to estimate.. To take the 20mm to a decent noise level you also need additional electronics that you need to mount, install, isolate... and I did not want that either... I wanted something simple... as simple as possible...

Later edit : a lot of fans do not start at 5V

I based my recommendations on the experience i got from testing various fan sizes and brands... It's just a recommendation.... I am sure there are others out there better then mine... just wanted to share my point of view so others will have a starting point and save a lot of time...

---------- Post added at 01:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:45 PM ----------

If you decide to install an DVR camera that draws a lot of power you might discover that the USB power dries out pretty fast...
[Android Head-Units] pounce:
Mainly the fact you can pull the USB cable plug and plug a fan right to the board socket. If a person was willing to give up a USB it just makes wiring easy . Just plug it in. If you change your mind swap it back. Sure, nothing stopping a person from tapping the power there, but I probably would not.
[Android Head-Units] luciusfox:
The wires are right there and exposed to tap into. Splicing in is even easier than trying to hijack the socket, since to hijack the socket would need you to come up with (and still install) a plug to the fan.

---------- Post added at 03:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:08 PM ----------

Just how much power do you think a camera would draw? Frankly, I think it would be a struggle to come up with something that draws over 400 mA.

Even the crappy joying camera only draws 200 mA...

https://www.carjoying.com/car-acces...-for-joying-new-android-system-head-unit.html
[Android Head-Units] pounce:
I hope you don't think I'm being critical of you personally. I hope to just expand on the discussion and offer additional perspective. I also use noctura (40mm) and concur with you on the reasons for choosing the brand. I just wish they had smaller fans to chose from.

This 40mm 5v would be a nice choice if the desire is to tap the USB power.

http://noctua.at/en/nf-a4x10-5v

---------- Post added at 10:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:28 AM ----------

You are not wrong. This really isn't a black and white thing. If you give up the USB cable you can clip the cable and use the plug.

Personally, I would dedicate the socket to the fan so that there was not any sort of risk to power starving either a USB device or the fan. I have another USB so who cares.
[Android Head-Units] edit:
No, discussions and ideas are welcome so please, by all means let's expand. I just felt that I had to tell everyone why I've chosen those fans so everyone would now my reasons... so people can have more info and take better decisons.

120mm/1200RPM fan is a bit overkill but it depends.... if you put small holes into the top of the case it cuts down the airflow of the fan dramatically so it's not overkill.... if you cut a big hole and you mount a fine dust filter it also cuts down the airflow pretty much in half still not overkill..... but if you cut a big hole and you put just an 120mm fan with no dust filter... it's definitely overkill....

So I've chosen 80mm/1200RPM with medium size holes on the top cover (I forgot the exact size 4 or 5mm).... it cuts down the airflow but still offers decent cooling...
[Android Head-Units] Rated RR:
Guys, don't you think we went too far off topic from this thread, myself included. Actually, there is the thread for this cooler and other mods, so may I suggest we continue this discussion there: https://xdaforums.com/android-auto/android-head-units/roll-joying-2gb-sofia-mtcb-mtcd-tips-t3555249

Either that or [MENTION=2366275]doctorman[/MENTION] may change the subject of this thread :)
[Android Head-Units] mcloge:
yes, that is right before upgrade, it is better to do a full factory reset if you do not mind it will wipe all your previous data
[Android Head-Units] gessi2000:
How do I enable split screen on my 8" Android 6.0.1 Sofia Joying device being rooted and Developer Options available?

I don't find the dual screen options in the developer mode drawing section!?
[Android Head-Units] TransAmMan:
I know we've gone off topic with the temperature control but I wanted to add one more thing (which might cause more comments) but I don't want to leave anyone hanging. I installed a pretty massive headsink with built in fan. I had a voltage reducer to lower the fan RPM so it's whisper quiet. Before my modification my 8" 6021 radio was running between 70C to 80C. After install even on a hot day with music streaming via Wifi and google maps, I'm between 36C - 44C. HUGE difference. I didn't modify the case at all since on the 8" there's a large hole on the front where the cable passes through to attach to the removeable screen. I drove for a 3 hour trip, never went above 44C.

This is what I used with some Arctic Silver thermal adhesive https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QS0LB0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

On the 8" model, it fits nice and snug due to the screen cable. It can't fall over. On a 7" model, I don't know how it looks inside so you may want to fabricate some small brackets to hold it in place.

For some reason I can't add pictures.
[Android Head-Units] edit:
Temps are great but you really need to anchor down that tall, (bit) heavy heatsink.... if you have the 5009SoM, the soldering points might (in time) break from all the vibrations that will be amplified by the tall heatsink (and stress the soldiering points of the SoM)
[Android Head-Units] TransAmMan:
Yeah, making some mounting brackets was round 2. I just wanted to see how much of a difference it made over a week before going through that trouble. In the 8" radio, it's in there tight. I can't even move it around by hand. The cable going from the front board to the monitor has a decent amount of force almost acting like a spring pushing the heatsink up against the case. That with the thermal adhesive it should be good but I'm a paranoid person. There's some small bolts that secure the fan. I'll be making a couple brackets that go from there to the joying case. :)
[Android Head-Units] alexyie:
Hi, This doesn't work, press and hold "Mute" button shuts the unit down instead of just turning the screen off.

Another question, I cant seems to get the google play games work. I installed game that required google play games integration, and the popup which supposed to let me choose which google account to use doesn't shows up, causing the game will not complete load. anyone has this problem and / or know the solution?
[Android Head-Units] surfer63:
The 7 July version has an option to turn of the screen. Drag the notification bar down and you will find the option (can't remember the name)
[Android Head-Units] CadillacMike:
i think it was called "Black Screen"
[Android Head-Units] Rated RR:
It does work for me. Pressing and holding the mute button turns off the sound as well as the display. If I just click all gets back on momentarily.

I've had similar problems just to find out that I haven't done factory defaults after firmware update.
[Android Head-Units] danstah:
So I'm having an odd issue with this. I've put velvet.apk in the priv-app/velvet folder with 644 permissions. When I make a bluetooth call the other person here's almost like fax or dial up type sounds rather than my voice. I'm on the July 7th update. This issue only happens when Ok Google from any screen is enabled. I'm using an iPhone 7. Has anyone had this issue before or any ideas? Are people using velvet.apk and an iPhone without issues while making calls?
[Android Head-Units] Foogl:
JY-UM135N2D Bluetooth Issues

I just got JY-UM135N2D which is model with a new amp (gold back plate). So far so good, I really like sound coming out of the unit, but granted I do not have a premium sound in my Honda Pilot.

I was able to root the radio using 2nd method described here https://xdaforums.com/android-auto/android-head-units/roll-joying-2gb-sofia-mtcb-mtcd-tips-t3555249, only catch was to add adb port 5555 (descibed here https://xdaforums.com/showpost.php?p=72057022&postcount=12).

Now I'm trying to get Bluetooth working for my ODB2 Bluetooth adapter and of course it does not pair using their silly app so I decided to patch Bluetooth app as described here https://xdaforums.com/showpost.php?p=71280945&postcount=88

Well, I'm trying to follow instructions but I have to be doing something wrong:

1) There are three files now on the google drive, I don't know which one is the one I need:

JY-1-C9-BT-V1.0.apk_wBT

JY-1-C9-BT-V1.0.apk_601

JY-1-C9-BT-V1.0.apk_601new

2) I tried to copy all three one by one and set them to 644. Should I now install from that apk? Or by replacing old apk with new apk, I'm running new app? If I try to install from new apk, I'm getting following errors:

Either "there is a problem parsing the package" and I don't even see install dialog, or

I see install dialog, it will show me requested permissions and then I get "App not installed"

Yes, I do have enabled to install apps from other sources (Car Settings / Advanced Tab). May be there is some other setting I'm missing?

Could somebody help me out with this? I bet I'm missing something simple and stupid.

Thanks!
[Android Head-Units] dyabolikarl:
You don't install this APK you put it in the device/system/app/ . It's a replacement BT module. You need to reboot for it to take hold.

you should be using 6.01 for MM and 5.11 for Lollipop
[Android Head-Units] Foogl:
Thanks for reply, but it didn't completely answer my question. Yes, I'm putting them to device/system/app/.

This thread is about Android 6 and I'm running 6.01, but my understanding is that any of those files bellow could be potentially working. So, which one is the right one?

JY-1-C9-BT-V1.0.apk_wBT

JY-1-C9-BT-V1.0.apk_601

JY-1-C9-BT-V1.0.apk_601new
[Android Head-Units] surfer63:
This one is the right one. I have it directly from Treel. You can use the Joying Extra Tools application to install it is as well.
[Android Head-Units] Foogl:
Thanks! I will give it a try today.
[Android Head-Units] killerpiller:
Hello, i tried installing from your apk but i do not work the link as in the photo i attach. Do I need to give special permissions to apk or delete cache? I'm with a Joying HU with firmware on May 25th. Thank you.
[Android Head-Units] surfer63:
I assume your unit is rooted otherwise the apk would have mentioned that.

These "not installing" issues are a big issue with the 6.0.1 version. You sometimes need to reinstall the original, reboot, and try to install again.

Did you try that?
[Android Head-Units] krzycho26:
As he writes surfer63 :

I was similar, but now seamlessly installs apk.

I have software from July and it is ok.

But root is the root :)
[Android Head-Units] killerpiller:
I tried to do as you told me but it did not work. ?
[Android Head-Units] killerpiller:
Yes, I tried but no results. :(
[Android Head-Units] Foogl:
I tried yesterday version 1.6 on my rooted JY-UM135N2D and it works flawlessly.
[Android Head-Units] yzf600Rider:
Ok so i just got my joying can we get android 7.1 yet?
[Android Head-Units] alexyie:
Well, what i wanted is to just turn of the screen, not to disable any sound ^^
[Android Head-Units] Foogl:
Just FYI, I found that when I try to install something first time and reboot does not work. What works for me pretty much all the time is:

Install mod, reboot, it fails

Install the original, reboot

Install AGAIN the mod, reboot, now it works
[Android Head-Units] Rated RR:
Then slide down from the status bar and disable screen.
[Android Head-Units] luciusfox:
If you clear out its file from /data/dalvik-cache, that forces the system to reinstall it on the next reboot.
[Android Head-Units] surfer63:
That is exactly what my apk does. It kills the app and removes the /data/dalvik-cache/profile/<package name>. Then it pushes the modded apk (or other Settings.apk) in place and requires the user to reboot (the user can refuse to reboot but that's his/her responsibility)

Sometimes these steps are still not enough. The weird thing is that it works for one user and not for the other. This was never a problem on 5.1.1