yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Android Head-Units] kampfschachtel:
HI guys,

is it acctualy possible to change and replace files in the origin flash release so instead of flashing original and then changing, change it before and let the flash install all of it.

What I already have done replaced the bootanimation, boot logo and DAB+ app (with realzulus apk) at the 25thmay flash and it was installing it correctly. I have to reflash mine due to the bluetooth is completely gone (cannot even switch it on) and wanna try 7th july release, so I willing to try to exchange other filles eg. would it be possible to install the android settings right away? Other stuff like wallpaper (screen background) or BT moded version...

Also the apks of other apps I want, means instead of flashing and then manually installing or recocer from titanium backup (which some unknown stuff that get copied on without you knowing it is there) I just install all apps I want right away with the flash? Would make reflashing much easier and together with surfers genious extra tool a 30 min job instead of couple hours....
[Android Head-Units] surfer63:
Depends what you want. If you want the launcher3 to function with Google Voice, and if you want Google Maps to function, you must certainly update.

Otherwise: Don't bother to upgrade, especially when you are a big fan of Gustden's mods. They do work also on the 07 July version, but there are quite some changes in the SofiaServer.apk so no guarantees about stability and/or other issues.
[Android Head-Units] kampfschachtel:
that is a shame but thanks got there are other plattforms on the internet where he is active.

What I came across the last 10min its another "genious" and sucicidal strategy of joying: with Android 6 they also started to **** up the USB connections and limiting USB with a hardcoded whitelist with only their own devices. My DVR came from joying (but the old one) is not working since I received my 6 unit and joying send me apks that didn't work till now beacuse they forgot to put that into their whitelist as their own device....yes before with 5 they limited the camera with the HAL video file but now joying effectlivly monitors the USB too and limit it to connect to their own devices, what a bull****. Now you know why Joying will never support going back to 5....and why every release now will be worse regarding official or not officall stuff from them as they use every opportunity to block others out.

Thanks to edit I found guess whom, yes doitright on the github and he offers a fix and a version where you can use several cameras at the same time.

https://github.com/lbdroid/FFMpeg-DashCam

I am sure this USB limitation changes is screwing other stuff too, like the DAB+ and another main reason why the 7th july is very different. I guess, same reason for the AUX input without video, they plan their own action cam and DVD player and control the connection via the video, maybe even the HAL like with the camera to block other devices....if no video device know to the joying is connected, the audio is blocked too.

and here an apk that recognices at least my dvr is there: https://xdaforums.com/showpost.php?p=72475937&postcount=37
[Android Head-Units] pounce:
His dashcam solution doesn't enable usb cameras on the joying unit. Rather it is an open dashcam where the recording is on the external pi device. A the moment it doesn't stream live video to the client app, but it could.
[Android Head-Units] TransAmMan:
My Joying 8" has been working great for 5 months. I started my car today and it's completely dead. I checked all the fuses. I'll do more troubleshooting with my multimeter when I get home but I think it burnt out. Sucks cause I have a long drive this weekend. It's going to be extra boring with no music.
[Android Head-Units] edit:
I am sorry man...

Did you mod your unit by any chance with aditional fans or heatsinks?

Yesterday was your car in the sun the whole day and it was insanely hot in the car?

[MENTION=7408972]CadillacMike[/MENTION] and now you.... hmmm
[Android Head-Units] CadillacMike:
My Joying completely died

[youtube]79exJTejt6A[/youtube]

[youtube]OiXP4y8IdgQ[/youtube]

However they are sending me a new unit

---------- Post added at 01:37 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:36 AM ----------

I did not mod mine in any way. I think they just did not handle heat well and Summer is killing them

That's why the new ones with the DSP mention handling heat better
[Android Head-Units] leonkernan:
I've just picked one up to play with (not the new dsp model).

First test, room temp 15 degrees Celsius here (late winter), the processor quickly jumped to around 65 doing nothing!!!

Next I added a heatsink and fan from an old Intel Atom board I had laying around, wired into the ACC and ground lines.

Now the unit sits around 25 Celsius and spikes at around 35 under heavy load.

Yes there is fan noise, but it's quickly drowned out when driving and is a small price to pay to keep the thing running.

I dread to think what happens in summer without it, 35 to 40c is fairly normal here.
[Android Head-Units] Clandaries:
Can you please post a link for the right heatsink and fan for the processor?

Thank you :)
[Android Head-Units] Nightmare[ITA]:
Hey there

Where can i check the ROM Version currently installed on the unit?

After sleep, maps does not show the position anymore until i restart the unit.

Strangely it worked before installing SuperSU with the script.

Thanks
[Android Head-Units] TransAmMan:
The fuse and everything tested fine. I removed the unit and bench tested it with my power supply. It turned on but without the ignition power wire hooked up (strange). So I put it back in my car. Again, it powered up without the ignition power wire. I've had the unit for 5 months and it always behaved normally. Once powered up the touch screen works but the side buttons (volume up, home, etc) no longer work. Steering wheel controls no longer work as well. I tried to reflash the software but the USB inputs are dead as well. I have not done any heat mods, it's not rooted at all. It worked fine on the way to work then when I went to leave that was it. It was only 70 degrees outside so can't really say it was too hot in the car. I had no problems on the many 90 degree days this summer. Oh well, I overnighted a new one from Amazon. It'll take all but 5 minutes to swap it out. I'll get Joying to repair this one then sell it on Ebay. I've had 9 Joying radios so far without any problems till now, I guess with electronics anything can happen. I do think I'll be putting a fan in the new one though.
[Android Head-Units] surfer63:
Use a file manager or terminal and check the build.prop in /system. You will find the rom build date there (ro.build.date= ...)

The 25 May version is actually 24 May

The 07 July is actually 29 June 2017.

For older 6.0.1 and 5.1.1 I don't remember anymore.
[Android Head-Units] Nightmare[ITA]:
Thanks!

Oh..and thank you very much sir, for the work you're doing on these units :good:
[Android Head-Units] leonkernan:
It's just a heatsink and 40mm fan off an old motherboard with soldered on cpu. Any smaller CPU cooler will do the job.

I just cleaned it up and stuck it with thermal paste to the Joying heat spreader.
[Android Head-Units] edit:
I have to warn people that modding these units might leads to loosing the warranty...
[Android Head-Units] TransAmMan:
My 8" unit that failed had the main board go bad. Joying is sending me a new one for $30 plus I have to mail the old one back. I already installed a new replacement joying stereo. I'll just keep the bad one as a spare after I replace the board or toss it on ebay. I didn't want to be without a radio for weeks. Gotta love Amazon, 1 day delivery. I cut a hole for a 40mm fan and installed a massive heat sink with cooling tubes and all with some thermal paste right on top of the small joying heat sink. What a huge difference in heat with just the heat sink alone. It's staying around 88F degrees (31C)
[Android Head-Units] edit:
I think you meant 88 F (around 31.1 C)

Have you took any pictures? :)
[Android Head-Units] Clandaries:
My processor is around 85 degrees celsius, so it is true. They are very hot without cooling....
[Android Head-Units] edit:
The problem is 85C is the max temp that the chip was designed to operate and if you push it will go further (90-95C) without shutting down and that shortens it's lifespan by a lot.

At 85C the chip is in panic mode already and it's throttled all the way down to 416Mhz so everything will happen a lot slower.

Not only that but the heat from the heatplate that covers the SoM iradiates to all the componenets that SoM contains like RAM, Storage, GPS chip, Wi-Fi chip.

I don't think all the components on the SoM are build to withstand high temperatures for long periods of time (correct me if I am wrong here) so sooner or later one chip or the other will fail...
[Android Head-Units] TransAmMan:
Yep, I'm in the US so everything is in F. ;)

Actually I was in a rush so I didn't take any pictures. I'll be modifying my other 8" this week. I'll be sure to take some pictures.
[Android Head-Units] krzycho26:
Root - please help

Hello

I have a problem with rooting Joying 6.0.1

I downloaded the needed files to root, in fyt_build.prop I added service.adb.tcp.port = 5555

The device is on the network, after entering "copy install.bat my ID.

I get this screen info info from a computer screen:

All files are in resources.

This is a SuperSU folder:

Please help, why is this communion?

What should I do to make the operation successful?
[Android Head-Units] TransAmMan:
Yeah, I can definitely tell a difference in speed with my new radio with heat sink and cooling fan. I had no idea they got that hot before. The factory heat sink is pretty pathetic. Maybe if they tied it in to the radio case it would be better.
[Android Head-Units] surfer63:
Your file structure is OK.

I'm not sure whether the fyt_buildprop is read at all. AFAIK it is only read during the install.

You are the first to try it this way.

You are using service instead of persist. Did you do that on purpose? I ask that because why would you add it to a prop file if you use the "enable till next reboot" version.

If you are not absolutely sure what you do you better use my apk to enable adb over tcpip, then use the script to root the unit, and possibly disable adb over tcpip again.

And did you get/use the (latest) rootinstall from that same releases page? The older scripts lack an extra "sleep" pause necessary because the 6.0.1 is slower to react.
[Android Head-Units] krzycho26:
I read on another forum that you can add to fyt_build.prop

This line service.adb.tcp.port = 5555.

I downloaded the files from you.

Ok I will try as you write, but I have to re-flash again to be fyt_bulid.prop.

I know if root has gone.

Thank you for your answer and help
[Android Head-Units] edit:
The units that contain the 5009 SoM have an thick thermal pad under the SoM that transfer some of the heat to the case but it does not help a lot.
[Android Head-Units] krzycho26:
surfer63

I made a re-flash again.

Then I installed your joing extra tools.apk.

Here's a photo from my Joying:

Unfortunately, after trying to do root, I received this information:

I typed using the terminal command: persist.adb.tcp.port=5555

Nothing, the same information as above.

No idea, I checked my router, everything ok.

Why does not find my device?

Too bad you can not go back to the 5.1 firmware...

I really care to have root on the device
[Android Head-Units] TransAmMan:
One thing I noticed is my 8" 32GB 5009 radio that burnt up has basically zero heat sinks. Just a thin piece of metal over the processor. It was one of the first 2gb ram radios with android 5.1.1 they released. The new 8" 5009 I just bought came with Android 6.0.1 and has a completely different heat sink. it's much thicker and has fins on it. Still lame but definitely an improvment.
[Android Head-Units] edit:
They moved from the 5009 (soldered) to 6021 SoM that is socketed, has a tiny bit better designed heatsink and has a bit better speed 1.2 Ghz versus the 1.040 Ghz.

The 5009 SoM although has that piece of smooth surface aluminium that they probably call heatsink has one big advantage for modding... it's smooth and gluing something on top if it it's so easy and the heat transfer is very good.

The 6021 with it's tiny and useless fins (because the CPU generates far to much heat for those tiny fins to be efficient at dissipating it)... good thing that has that square flat area in the middle of it where the CPU lies underneath.

The 6021 heatsink design provides better thermals for the CPU VRM also... one big plus versus the old 5009 heatsink design.
[Android Head-Units] Nightmare[ITA]:
I just opened my "5009" unit which has no video out, just to realize that it has the 6021 version in it with the thicker heatsinks with those fins on top, it's also written everywhere on the board and heatsink itself. I'm kinda confused now, since the missing video out is not a clear idicator anymore.

Also i'm going to mount a noctua fan on the top plate, with the purpose of sucking air into the unit. Will it cool enough with the preinstalled heatsink or would it be better to get completely rid of it and mount custom heatsinks? I'm not completely conviced that the connection between cpu and heatsink is working.

I had temperatures up to 100℃
[Android Head-Units] krzycho26:
My frend surfer63

The solution to my problem was found under this link:https://forum.carjoying.com/thread-875-page-3-joying-intel-android-60-update-root-amp-feedback.html

I had the same problem that he described DannyGER.

The solution suggested edit:

So after I restarted, I entered a command from your script ---> copy_install.bat <my ID>

And the device is root :D

Thank you for help :).
[Android Head-Units] surfer63:
Good to hear it is solved.

did you pay attention to the avatar (profile image) and location of this user hvdwolf on the carjoying forum? ;)
[Android Head-Units] krzycho26:
Friend

Of course :D
[Android Head-Units] Nightmare[ITA]:
You're right, i didn't read it well, because i decided to open the unit anyway, my bad.

I disagree on this one though. I don't think leaving it as it is, is a solution at all This thing is clearly overheating and the proccessor is taking damage very often. As soon as you push the unit a bit (streaming for example) it jumps to 85+ °C. Leaving it as it is only leads to a broken unit, sooner or later.

So I'm going to mount a little heat spreader on top of the existing where the flat area is and mount a fan on the top plate and will report here how much it helped with the temperatures. Also I contacted Intel about what these high temperature do to the processor and if it can withstand it, maybe we'll get some useful information. :)
[Android Head-Units] edit:
Again, you are not paying attention or you misunderstood what I was saying, can't explain it otherwise. Don't take the last phrase out of the context please

You said

And I replied

"If you are not convinced, you can unscrew the SoM (4 screws) , take it out of the socket, unscrew the heatsink (6 screws) and check for yourself if the chips are in contact with the heatsink from the thermal paste footprint... if you have the experience you can tell right away.... clean everything up, repaste the chips with the right amount of thermal paste of better quality, put everything back.

DON'T use any thermal paste that is conductive or capacitive. Once you take the heatsink off you NEED TO clean it and repaste.

If you don't have the experience needed I'll say it's better to leave it as it is.... mount a fan on top and let it be."

The conclusion

I was referring to the fact that if you don't have the experience in taking things apart cleaning and repasting the CPU you better leave it as it is because if you don't repaste it correctly the CPU will not touch the heatsink to dissipate the heat and most likely will burn out in a matter of minutes (can't say for sure but it's possible).

That's the road that many took and you can't fail.... you will cut down the temperature by at least 15-30 degrees depending on the heatsink size, the fan speed/size and of course the ambient temperature.
[Android Head-Units] michaelpop:
Hello, folks! Radio signal was bad since I bought my "latest new" model, the Intel Sofia-based unit with 2GB of Ram. Compared with the original car-radio, it is worlds apart. The original had maximum signal strength even in the basement parking. I compared several signal amplificators (with active diversity to iso) and the best I found was still very low compared to the original. Since upgrading to Android 6 it seems even "a bit" worse than bad. Now I've got told that on some forums (didn't find them), some found that the radio connector is not welded to the right pin inside the unit. I'm sure you all had the problem with the radio signal quality, what solution did you addopt?
[Android Head-Units] pounce:
Not trying to be pedantic. I am not sure Joyings method for identifying the SoM is still 100%. I have 6021 and there is video out. Its not not on the back. It's on accessory cable running out the back next to the USB.

---------- Post added at 10:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:36 AM ----------

On my recent unit the radio antenna connector is not centered well behind the back plate. If I were to insert the antenna connector the connector would be in contact with the back plate. That will impact reception. You may want to check that and see if you need to insulate.
[Android Head-Units] edit:
That's EXACTLY why linked to the pictures because the video out ON THE BACK of the unit makes the difference.

To avoid confusion I gave alternatives way of identifying the unit - like the max. speed of the CPU that clearly shows the difference between 5009 and 6021.

To avoid any confusion or false readings I clearly stated that the units CPU needs to be cool to avoid throttling though the CPU giving out wrong max speed.
[Android Head-Units] Sergio45:
So, its worth try to mod the unit to decrease the temperature? or shall we juts wait till it dies, mines a few days ago was at 110 degrees...

I think that if we mod the unit probably garanty will be gone so im not sure...

Is sad that this issue will kill our unit soon or later.
[Android Head-Units] Nightmare[ITA]:
IMO you should definitely mod your unit, or it will die sooner or later.

Just mount a heatsink on top of the existing, that already does a lot, the bigger the better.

If you also mount a fan to the top plate, you should be on the secure side.

That's the setup i'm going for. I'll post some pictures when done if anyone is interested, maybe in the heatsink thread though.
[Android Head-Units] TransAmMan:
I installed a massive heatsink with cooling tubes and a quiet fan in the case. It's amazing how fast the radio seems now. It doesn't lag anymore either. With google maps and spotify playing, bluetooth connected, and of course wifi connected it's staying around 88F. Huge improvement.
[Android Head-Units] surfer63:
Even though this is about the upgrade and not about heatsinks, I'll continue this off-topic subject here as well. Especially as some of you are talking about "massive" or "huge" heatsinks.

If you look at the internals (see pictures), there is this "dent" in the cooling plate.

How do you handle that?

If you put something "over it", the heat will even be more concentrated on that spot., or am I wrong?

Or do you simply paste it next to that dent?

Or .. Or .. ? :)

I simply wanted to drill a few holes in the top and put a fan on it sucking the air out(!) of the unit.

Edit: I shamelessly copied those images from someone else. Can't remember anymore who it was.
[Android Head-Units] edit:
The CPU is located under the "dent" (that's the hotspot). If you mount an bigger heatsink over the dent using an special thermal glue the the heat will transfer to the shiny new big heatsink.

The thing is the default aluminium plate does not have enough surface to dissipate all the heat the CPU generates... Even if you mount an large heatsink, sooner or later your new big heatsink will heat up, warming up all the air inside the steel case and with all that hot air trapped inside the temperature of all the components will start to raise till everything becomes very.... hot.... this is where an fan will save the day because even if the heatsink takes care of the temperatures for a while at some point it become more or less useless.

So, if you are the kind of guy who takes short trips every day, you keep your car in the garage at work and at home, you might never need an fan, a bigger heatsink will do the job, because by the time the heatsink starts to heat up you are already at the destination.

But if you live in a hot climate, take long trips regularly, you need the fan in my opinion no matter how big is the heatsink.

With a big heatsink (and not a fan installed) it's true that you wouldn't probably see the temperature of the CPU reaching 100C but most likely driving in the middle of the day in a summer sunny day in a 3 hour drive, music and navigation running, the CPU temp will probably still reach 70-80C.

You guys need to take one more aspect in consideration.... the AMP. Listening to moderate to high volume levels determines the AMP to consume power and generate heat. As you know the AMP chip heat is dissipated through the back plate of the unit... some of the heat will dissipate further in the air inside and outside the case... Inside the case it acts like an additional heat generator that you have to take into consideration, not helping with the current situation....
[Android Head-Units] surfer63:
Thanks for your extensive explanation, but this is exactly what I meant.

"Many (light)years ago" I built pc's. It was always essential to cover the CPU with paste/glue as good as possible so you didn't have air holes.

Do you mean you fill the entire dent with paste/glue in this case?

Edit: I see I 'm taking over the "glue" word, but it is not glue. It is thermal paste.

And did you all use thermal paste or this "new" thermal tape? (I have no experience with that)
[Android Head-Units] edit:
I did not do that, I did put a hefty amount of glue on the sides of the dent for better contact and dissipation but I did not fill the dent with glue... Although I don't think is a bad idea, is just I did not had enough glue at that time to fill it up.
[Android Head-Units] surfer63:
If you get the typical 1.5 grams with your cooler or heat sink it will never be enough.
[Android Head-Units] edit:
No, it's glue (both linked below are PERMANENT adhesive), so once you glue it in... is there for life.

I used this one because it's completly safe, it's not capacitive or conductive.

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_thermal_adhesive.htm

This is better formula for heat transfering but it is slightly capacitive :

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_alumina_thermal_adhesive.htm

Giving the job at hand it does not matter the capacitive or conductive proprieties but if s*it hits the fan and you drop some on the motherboard it could be a problem.
[Android Head-Units] shanetrainST:
How difficult is it to remove the metal cover on the SOM?

I wonder if a little adhesive heatsink designed for a Raspberry PI and directly placed on the CPU would work better, especially if it had a little fan cooling it too.
[Android Head-Units] edit:
for the 5009 SoM - the metal cover is soldered and a bit difficult to take off. You need to desolder it while not getting the plate way too hot and damage the CPU and PMIC.

for the 6021 SoM - 4 screws to be able to take the SoM out of the socket and 6 more screws to take the heatsink off... so it's very easy

I don't think it will work because the CPU generates quite a lot of heat so you need a decent (big) enough heatsink.... If you glue in an big heatsink on a small (surface) CPU you will strain the CPU with all the weight of the heatsink... with all the vibrations that you have in a car... so the CPU might come off at some point or the soldering between the CPU and the SoM might break/crack. Of course, I can't be sure, I am just speculating here based on my experience.

Next to the CPU is the PMIC that also needs cooling... so you need 2 heatsinks...