yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Android Head-Units] uudruid74:
Really couldn't agree more. However, I would add that the Rockchip is Automotive temp spec isn't it? That's 125C rather than 85C, and may be better at being locked in your dash in your hot car in the summer. I once had a dime sitting in my change tray and by the time I got out of work it was bent from the heat! Also, the most common time to back up your car is right when you turn the key, backing out of a parking spot, and having that work while booting is great. If I had to wait for boot, the camera would be almost worthless. I suppose a hibernate mode might get it up and running fast enough. My OnePlus running Cyanogen had this. I could power down the phone and it would boot in about 2 seconds. I think it would actually battery back the RAM in a deep sleep since it would use about half the battery in a week (I had a spare I tossed in a drawer while "off"), but that would be a good compromise.

I've had to resort to editting the Smali files to try and get things done on the headunit and that isn't a very efficient way to work! And my knowledge of smali is pretty poor as well. But, with more information, we could do a lot more!

Just found an RK3188 datasheet and while I could have sworn I read automotive temp spec somewhere else, the actual datasheet says 85C, typical commercial grade. Thats kinda disappointing.
[Android Head-Units] checksum123:
The tablet in your car is not supposed to power off, the battery is there to keep it in standby mode for a very long time. I cannot talk about the other tablets, but the samsung galaxy tab a has a long battery life, more than a week in standby mode. So when I get off my car, it goes into standby powering off all the wireless ( Bluetooth, WIFI and GPS), when I get back in the car and turn on the ignition, those come back up within seconds.

I tested my backup camera yesterday, I could not get a video from the backup camera that came with my car, but the app opens up as soon as you plug the USB in. I plan to wire the USB to a relay that will connect the ground of the USB connector when I engage the reverse.

The tablet is currently installed in my car, I am still doing some testing, and waiting for the bezel that is being fabricated by someone else. So far everything works great with some minor issues:

1- Bluethooth for phone ( still have not figure out a clean way to do it). The best you can do right now is Tablet Talk, but it does not allow you to talk through the tablet.

2- I am using a USB DAC for better sound performance, and the tablet notifications sounds are not routed through the DAC for some reason. They come out the tablet speakers very distorted. But Music/ Voice are routed through the DAC without any issues.

3- Still trying to get my car backup camera to show up through the easycap video capture device.

4- I bought a SDR tuner for the radio, but now need to get my car antenna connected to it. Not sure if that will work or not.

5- Still working on the steering wheel control with the Joycon

6- I changed the DPI of the tablet to 320 from 240, and now fonts an images are bigger, which what I wanted. But since the change the Dock on Nova Launcher does stay in landscape mode.
[Android Head-Units] gustden:
Smali is almost as much fun as assembly language :) Kind of neat how a java "if" statement can end up as 30 lines of smali.

I have gotten to the point I can read it and understand it pretty well. Writing it is a different story, I usually just write new code in eclipse, compile, then copy/paste the resulting smali code. I many need to fix a few references to functions and variables, but it works pretty good.
[Android Head-Units] barnesk9:
1. For the phone you could get something like a kinivo btc455. You could connect your tablet and phone to it and be able to take voice calls over the radio. That's how I did it when I had my tablet install.

2. I think soundabout will fix that issue for you.

6. if you have Xposed installed you can use appsettings to change the dpi of some apps and in Nova launcher change the icon size.
[Android Head-Units] vgabbott@gmail.com:
Not a wise choice. Look at Ownice C500 which I bought. Costs $260 base shipped. Gets you 4glte, 3g in US, 2mb ram 16gb native storage, 32 mb micro sd slot, 45 watts power, backup cam, dash cam, external usbs, obd2, tire pressure option, external and internal Mic, sleep mode, fast GPS, etc, etc.

No comparison to a tablet conversion.
[Android Head-Units] checksum123:
Making very good progress, should be done by end of the week. Will post final install soon... ( stay tuned)
[Android Head-Units] checksum123:
Project completed

Finally, completed the project today.

It wasn't easy at all, lots of unseen issues. But overall, I am pretty happy with it, I would not trade it for anything.

I have paired it with an equalizer, an amp and a sub; and the sound quality is excellent, better than anything I have ever heard.

So far, I have:

Music / Video / GPS (Maps) / FM Radio / HD Backup camera / HD Webcam(front camera) / Live TV/ Miracast to headrest monitors / Phone / Volume control (installed volume knob) / Bluetooth Remote control (steering wheel).

If you are going to do something like this, make sure you have lots of patience, I had to order parts left and right to make sure everything fits together.

Issues I have:

- I wish the volume level on the samsung was finer, it only allows 15 steps from 0 to full volume.

- I bought a USB device, everytime I start the car, it detect the USB device and a popup ask me if I want to open the app by default everytime it is connected. Wish I could disable the popup, because it is annoying to have that popup everytime I start the car.

What I really like as compared to my last android head unit from china:

- Super fast, all apps run smoothly. I can open many apps, have them side by side or in a floating popup window.

- Screen is super bright and text are very crisp.

- Music quality is superior with the external DAC

- I am rooted

- All my bluetooth devices connect to the tablet once I am in the car within 1 sec, also my WIFI connects to my phone hotspot before I even get into the car.

- Ok Google work very well, I can speak while listening to music and google will lower the music volume.

- No issues with power beside all peripherals I have connected. Device is almost always at 100% juice. I have a 12V to 5V (3A) power adapter.

- Running Marshmallow, and will upgrade to Nougat once it becomes available on the samsung tablet.

Here are the final install pics, very happy with the final result
[Android Head-Units] drober05:
This is a great thread.

I have had a tablet integrated with my RV for many years. Before the Android head units were even an option. I have experienced many of the limitations and advantages mentioned in the thread. It actually works pretty well. I didn't replace the use of my RV radio, basically just created a separate GPS/Infotainment system out of the tablet. I am currently using a 7" LG Gpad which is working well hooked up to 4G via FreedomPop.

For my other vehicle I am seriously considering one of the Android head units. Only thing that is holding me back right now is the installation. I can't see hacking up my car dash to fit these units and it seems none of them will fit a standard 2 DIN unless custom built for the vehicle (Chevy HHR). It's not so much that I have a problem hacking at my dash but that it seems any of the current head units would only be a temporary solution and need to be replaced at some point down the road as technology improves. If I cut up my dash to fit one then a replacement may not fit.
[Android Head-Units] nFiniti:
Wow.... Some people can ***** about the dumbest stuff. Anyway, I chose a tablet over these low powered devices because of the reasons you mentioned (op). I currently have a 8.4" Samsung Galaxy Tab S. I seem to be one of the only in the world with this tablet. But the system specs including the screen puts this device way above all the others. Mine is also 4GLTE and I have a plan attatched to it. You DO NOT need a 16 port USB Hub, At most you'd need about a 4Port. I have a 4Port and only use 2, One for the SDR/DAB+/DVB/FM Dongle and the other for a decent quality USB DAC.

I've used Nexus 7's before and the 2013 Device is the best device to use in Car in my honest opinion. To make things easier with the Car Rom. I've been doing lots of R&D And even learning to skin Kodi and Android to make it look right and run right. Its taken lots of time and money to get my tablet right. Its easilly removable like any radio faceplate. Samsungs are not the right tablets for such a thing, BUT they can be done. Just gotta know what you're doing and not expect a quick and easy install.

The problem I've come across is being unable to find a legit FM App. Since I'm in the US, nice looking apps like DAB+ do not work here. Currently the only apps I've found to work is WaveSync which looks horrifying (sorry to the Dev for any disrespect), And SDR Touch which is awesome and easy but does not look good for in car use, its more of a sit at your desk app. But it does work just fine. I don't really listen to FM Much. I have a 256GB SD Card with tons of movies, music videos, and Music plus 4GLTE on Unlimited Data (no data cap). Getting the Samsung device to work right with power on and off took a little trial and error. So did the OTG+Power. After wasting some cash I've finally come to a setup that almost works flawless. It is not perfect but it looks perfect and for me does more than just a car radio. I use the device all the time for car data logging, I remove it and use it for daily use.

If there were a way I could get the Nexus 7 but with a larger screen, I would do that. But this Samsung tablet is just so nice.

I'd really enjoy finding someone with a Android 5 Unit that has root and could backup their FM App for me to try out. Since they should use the same chipset as my FM Dongle.
[Android Head-Units] nFiniti:
Here's my setup.

Samsung Galaxy Tab 8.4" 4GLTE 256GB+16GB Tablet

Lava STS (TL002c) Simulcharge Adaptor

Matek 5.3v 6A 4Port DC/DC Power Supply

Belkin 7 Port Powered USB 2.0 Hub

Behringer UCA222 USB DAC

Ebay USB DVB-T+DAB+FM+SDR Dongle

(This all used to be jumbled up in the dash board, checksum kinda inspired me to clean it all up so here we have it)
[Android Head-Units] frankienones:
Tak a look at this thread : https://xdaforums.com/showthread.php?t=2402380
[Android Head-Units] nFiniti:
I enjoy chatting with people about it. I'm glad you responded. During the install of the Tab S, I didn't find a single person who's done anything similar. I chose the Tab S because its currently still the best tablet around. It has the best, most beautiful screen. Its super powerful. And I love power. I didn't want one of these weak Android Head Units that have a Resolution of 480p. Plus I enjoy the modification, making it mine. I've learned Android and Kodi Code. Its kinda fun when things to right haha.

If you decide to upgrade to the Lava STS, LMK I can guide you into doing it right. Its taken me a while to get it figured out right to have it with a powered hub that doesn't backfeed power. I designed a nice lil setup that powers the 7 Port hub very well.
[Android Head-Units] nFiniti:
I will give it a try. I assume these apps that connect to FM Radio all use the same exact chipset. So as long as the app sees the chipset it should be able to function.
[Android Head-Units] checksum123:
Thank you for all the info!

There is always room for improvement seeing other people work.

Just placed an order for the power supply on ebay.

Looking at your pictures, I see you are using the LAVA STS TL-002C? How do you have it connected to the power supply? There must be an option to power it from the Jack (optional?) instead of the micro-usb port?

I looked at their website and online store, the LAVA STS-002C is not available, must be out of stock?

I first consider the Galaxy Tab S, but did not like the 4:3 aspect ratio, that's the main reason I went with the galaxy tab A which is 16:9, also the spec between the 2 were not that different.

Automate been working fine so far, will look at Macrodroid.

This si the webcam I am using, was laying around the house and decided to make good use of it:

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wid...TF8&qid=1490451959&sr=8-6&keywords=usb+webcam

Picture quality is excellent

I don't use the webcam a lot while driving, but it;s good to know it is there. I have a separate dashcam to record while driving.
[Android Head-Units] nFiniti:
I swore I saw a pic of you using what looked to be a normal reverse camera. Whats night time viewing look like?
[Android Head-Units] checksum123:
Correct, that is for the reverse camera. My car has a built in reverse camera, but could not get it to work with the EasyCap USB device, so I bought this backup camera and hooked it up right next to the stock reverse camera.

Picture quality is very good for a backup camera, not HD, but much better than the built in camera. Night vision is a little grainy though. If you want I can show you a picture.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P914PMY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the powered USB HUB I just ordered, will be able to power it with the Power Supply. It claims it has auto switching between bus powered and external power. I am guessing the electronics inside can detect external power and prevent power backfeed. Will test it out...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GGYU46O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

On the LAVA website, it states that:

The power supply must never exceed 5.25 volts. Only one of the two power inputs are to be used.

The Matek Power supply spec list the output as 5.3V

Would that be an issue?

Will call LAVA to place an order, hopefully I can return the old LAVA I ordered from amazon.

Here is a diagram of what I think you did?
[Android Head-Units] nFiniti:
Yes, They told me the same thing over the phone about the Power. It has not had a single issue with the 5.3v Power Level.

It shouldn't be hard to test the voltage going out. Just connect up the main power source, connect the main USB source and use a multimeter to test the voltage pins for power. Like I show below, my Hub required power to turn on correctly. IDK if this is all hubs or what. I did buy a Diode Isolator to Isolate the Voltage from a USB Cable but I didn't wanna trust a small 5c Diode over my 80 dollar STS ya know?

And you're close, Very close. Here is what I did (using your diagram)
[Android Head-Units] checksum123:
I see what you did, smart move.

Why didn't let you the USB ports on the Belkin be powered by the LAVA the way it was designed? You know by not cutting the wires...

I talked to LAVA sales today and placed an order, should be here by Friday. Will test it out and let you know.

Thanks again...
[Android Head-Units] checksum123:
Ok, I see

You did not let the LAVA power the USB hub because you wanted to shut down the OTG when you remove power. Because the OTG devices will draw power from the tablet even when the car is off.

And when you had the external power connected to the USB hub along with the the LAVA powering the USB hub, you damaged the LAVA because of power back feed to the LAVA.

I will keep that in mind...
[Android Head-Units] nFiniti:
Nooooo. 1st off, the Simulcharge you have keeps OTG On. The STS shuts down OTG when you remove power. No, The reason why I didn't let the Lava power the USB In on the Hub was because the Powered Hub backfed power which is bad, very bad. I might have the pics somewhere, but a lil chip by the main USB Port on the STS straight incinerated itself when I turned it on. There are two Incomming Ports on the Powered Hub. A small Power Plug, and a Mini USB Port for the Data. The deal is, my Belkin 7 Port USB Hub requires Voltage on the Mini USB Port to work, period. It doesn't matter if you connect external (Additional) power. If you cut the Voltage Wires inside the USB Cable going to the Hub, it will not work. IDK why. BUT, the LAVA STS cannot accept this. Power must only flow in one direction on the STS, OUT. If Voltage goes the other way, it will burn up the chip on the STS. Possibly the voltage that is backfeeding from the Hub to the STS is too much for the STS to handle, IDK.

I made a little better diagram. I did this using old usb cables. Its not hard to cut them up and make your own cables. You just need to know which pins are which. I hope this is understandable. I use the word Backfeeding because it was also an issue with the Pi users. A Powered hub would backfeed into the motherboard and damage things. Good, high end hubs wont backfeed, and there are ways you can protect by using a Diode which only allows a signal, like DC voltage to go one direction. BUT I, like I mentioned earlier was hesitant to trust a 5c Diode to protect my 80 dollar Lava STS from my 15 dollar Belkin Powered Hub.

I also believe doing it this way, gives the Powered hub, a lot of good clean power. Not only does the Mini USB Input have a clean 5.3v Signal, but so does the Power Input. So I should be golden on using any device I wish without any lack of power issues.
[Android Head-Units] checksum123:
If you don't have the external power hooked up on the usb, wouldn't the LAVA be able to power the usb devices? That's the way I have it hooked up right now.
[Android Head-Units] secured-nor1:
Well done mate!

Now you have the unit!
[Android Head-Units] wacko37:
[MENTION=4463220]checksum123[/MENTION] Mate great job on this mate. So much so this will be my next project.

1 of many questions I'm sure I will have....

How have you over come the voice calls through your tablet from your phone and is it reliable?
[Android Head-Units] checksum123:
That's 1 thing I have not been able to figure out, and there is no clean solution at the moment, nFinity can back me up on this also.

Now, I am using Tablet Talk from the Play Store. I am able to see my text messages and reply from the tablet, but when a call comes it, I see it on the tablet with caller ID, but I have to talk on the phone.

Samsung has a app called Samsung Sync, so if your tablet and your phone are from samsung, you are in luck. It does route calls and text messages to the tablet and you can mirror every aspect of your phone to the tablet. But it only works with WIFI, so if you are in your car and using your phone as a hotspot, it will not work.
[Android Head-Units] wacko37:
Dam.... That's a must for me.

[MENTION=2190016]Zaphod-Beeblebrox[/MENTION] not sure if you remember me for the newsmy forums. But would you care to chime in on this?

I remember you saying on several occasions about going down this path, had you worked out a solution to this.

Really excited about doing a project like this, but it has to replace my current android head unit in every aspect.
[Android Head-Units] Zaphod-Beeblebrox:
I played with a tablet install temporarily, but I was never quite happy with the mount setup. I also didn't have the time to go to the extent that some did here, so I'm back to my NR5002 for now. I will revisit either an SBC or Tablet install at some point, but no time currently.

As for headunit/tablet calls, that was never an issue for me. I have always hated 'speakerphone' and use a bluetooth headset instead. My phone sits in a cradle that's easy to get to while driving, and that's always been the best solution for me.
[Android Head-Units] nFiniti:
Oh no. The Tablet/Lava doesn't put out enough juice for many usb devices. It could power a basic keyboard and mouse, or a single USB DAC or the FM Chip. But not everything all at once. Gotta have a Powered Hub. And with mine being a cheap hub that allows power to backfeed through the Mini USB Input into the Lava, that I cannot allow. It costs too much money to let it catch on fire from it. The Simulcharge you have I couldn't use longer than a few days. Would kill battery power by keeping the devices powered taking from the Tablet. But the STS would shut off OTG Mode so the tablet no longer powers the device. Before I got the STS I tried creating a Relay and a 5 wire USB device that would switch on OTG when Power is turned on. AKA It would kinda disconnect the Simulcharge from the Tablet. That did not work at all. the Switch wasn't fast enough and sometimes wouldn't go into OTG, and just charge the tablet.

I honestly don't know how you are powering your devices. I thought you had a Powered Hub. I see you have two of the same 3 Port Hubs and one is feeding the other. I have a single 7 Port hub. However maybe its because the hub is splitting the 5v 1a output of the Simulcharge device by 7, makes it fail. The way I have it right now is a fool proof way to legitly power all the devices. All 7 if I wanted. Because the Mini USB Input of the Hub is powered by the 5.3v 6a 4Port PSU, and the External Power of the Hub is also powered by its own separate port on the 5.3v 6a 4Port PSU. So it has legit Power Dedication while protecting the STS from backfeed.

I know it seems like a lot of bypassing to protect the STS and power a hub. But its worth it. And its really not hard. I'm sure you could easilly make your own cable just like mine. Only takes minor soldering skills and a couple old unused usb cables.
[Android Head-Units] aturi83:
Hi, sorry to reply so late to this but "slider kit" got any links for something like this?? I'm convinced this is the way to a reliable tablet/head unit. "boring" 1 din headunits do basics so well, use the tablet for the fun bits with steering wheel controls for volume etc. Sliding the tablet back would allow access for any reason.
[Android Head-Units] lowridincrew,:
Here you go http://www.fifieldfabrications.com/

I'm went a different route and had a friend take my tablet and a double din kit and try to make something on the CNC machine. Still waiting on him to get done.
[Android Head-Units] checksum123:
Hi nFinity,

So I got both the STS and the power supply this week.

But I cannot get the STS to charge my tablet (Samsung TAB A 10.1, which is listed on their compatibility list). I left all the jumpers on the STS as default. Connected USB D on the power supply to the power jack on STS, when I measured the voltag, it is was about 5.3V coming out of the power supply. When I hook up everything, the "Charge Only LED" does quick 2 flashes 4 times, then the "Simulcharge LED" flashes 1X, then the pattern repeats indefinitely. But there is not power on the tablet.

Any idea?

Another question:

1- Which Mode do you have set on the power supply? (Mode 1,2 or 3). Mine defaulted to Mode1: Green LED and B LED on when I applied power.
[Android Head-Units] checksum123:
I found out what the issue is:

12V--->Power supply <----> STS<---->Tablet

If I have everything hooked up and apply 12V to the power supply, the tablet does not charge and I see the blinking LEDs on the STS.

If I unplug the tablet and plug it back in, it starts charging.

It looks like the tablet has to be plugged in LAST after power is applied to the STS for it to work.

If the tablet is plugged in when you apply power to the STS, it does not work.

Not sure how I am going to overcome this issue???
[Android Head-Units] nFiniti:
Thats oddly strange, because thats not how its supposed to work. I have mine on the default. . . I'd contact Lava about it. I actually just damaged my STS due to a mildly defective cable. It was working fine but would lose connectivity to my DAC. I hooked up my S7 thinking it might be the tablet and the S7 said there was something wrong with the cable. So I disconnected it, took my faceplate off and hooked up a spare cable I had and it worked fine after that. But a wire touched ground, puffed out a lil bit of smoke and now its not charging my tablet. Powers it on, but the tablet is discharging, so Lava is fixing it for me.
[Android Head-Units] thanhvx:
This is a GREAT DIY thread. I've learned a lot, save much of time for tinkers.

Just a side note on Android Head Unit, have anyone used XRROSS units? They have units run android 6, 2GB ram. Look very promising.