yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Galaxy S6 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] DarryDoo:
Um. All S6 ROMs are based on some stock ROM. XtreStoLite is based on an S6 stock ROM. This is due to the chipset in use.
[Galaxy S6 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] mastermarkofroms:
I don't mean this though like in the past I have used stuff lime CM12,CM11, and even cm13 but from what I have seen so far is there arn't many AOSP roms coming to the S6 although I would like to see some that work with my phone. I would be on AOSP if I could
[Galaxy S6 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] DarryDoo:
Wouldn't we all!
[JASJAR, XDA Exec, MDA Pro ROM Development] hotrodder:
OEMAGW.dll appears to be missing from my windows mobile 6 universal, i think its needed for voice speed dial to work over bluetooth... Im trying to switch back to voice speed dial as voice command doesnt seem to do anything (im guessing it needs training, but i cant see how to train it). Can anyone make this file available for me as I really need speed dial for my car's hands free headunit. Thanks in advance.
[JASJAR, XDA Exec, MDA Pro ROM Development] King of Rapture™:
Hi there,

I have uploaded the voice dial on the following thread:

http://xdaforums.com/showthread.php?t=345256&page=7

I am not sure if this is what you are looking for!

KOR! :)
[JASJAR, XDA Exec, MDA Pro ROM Development] hotrodder:
OK, thanks :), im gonna give it a go, re-installing using that cab, and using the REG file... I was just after the dll for the OEM bluetooth audio gateway.

If i explain the problem i have maybe someone will have experienced it before. I recently flashed with JWRIGHT's rom (FANTASTIC BTW :) ) but it comes with voice command not just voice speed dial... which i cant get to work (pretty sure its me doing something wrong), anyway im quite happy with voice speed dial, so i want to just use that instead... I install it, apply a couple of REG fixes (just pointing to SDDIALER i think) and set it up on the button. When i press the button it works fine, but when i use bluetooth it appears to activate both voice speed dial and voice command at the same time. I get two seperate bleeps, one from speed dial and a different one from voice command, then if i dont say what its expecting it asks me to please repeat... they seem to conflict and as such it doesnt work. I think that its is something to do with the bluetooth gateway, so i just want to point the registry to the standard one... but i cant find it in the windows folder... The DLL is OEMAGW.dll .

Im hoping if i can get that and update the registry it will work... i could be wrong as im still new to playing with new roms and stuff.

Off topic a little, Im interested in trying to cook my own roms, but i dont know where to begin... im a programmer by trade but i dont really have any experience in this sort of thing. Any help or advice would be appreciated.
[Nexus 7 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] bogmaster98:
So i have the official 5.1 android and for 2 years i haven't changed from the official builds so i'm not familiar with custom Roms on nexus 7. Because the 5.1 is soooooo slow and the battery is very poor i want to ask you guys what custom rom should i install on my device and also what can i do about my battery. I don't want the newest OS, i want stability and performance (not for gaming, just usual stuff), and with a good battery life that would be great.

P.S: if you know a good ROM please send me a link :D.
[Nexus 7 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] wtherrell:
My choice is Pure Nexus plus Parrot mod and fstrim. It has made my Nexus 7 into my daily driver again.
[Nexus 7 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] bogmaster98:
Can you give me link please? :D
[Nexus 7 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] abhifx:
thread to pure nexus

http://xdaforums.com/nexus-7/development/unofficial-pure-nexus-project-layers-t3243943

thread to parrot mod

http://xdaforums.com/nexus-7/orig-development/parrotmod-speed-2012-nexus-7-emmc-fix-t3300416
[Nexus 7 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] Salty Wagyu:
Pure Nexus had trouble viewing internal storage through some apps, so I ditched it.

CyanogenMod 11 + Nexus Security Fixes [2016-08-05] with Parrotmod is great, definitely bought my device back to life. It's KitKat but marginally faster than Marshmallow in Pure Nexus.
[Nexus 7 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] TheYar:
Yeah ParrotMod changed everything for this aging device and brought it back to life.
[Nexus 7 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] flintash:
before jumping on custom rom, if you havent done that yet OP, i would recommend to try one more thing, that worked for me.

i got LP tablet, and wanted improve speed and all that,so I rooted, installed TWRP, so I could install Franco kernel and Parrot mod.

i followed most of recommendations from Nexus7tuningGuide, that you can find on Xda, and now it works fantastic!!!!

comparing to recommended cm11 (that i use on different tablet) it beats hands down! (tests run on Antutu benchmark)
[Xperia Z1 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] ahmedzetm:
anyone test fxpblog Android nougat AOSP 7.0 15/9

what bugs on this rom

https://www.androidfilehost.com/?w=files&flid=109243
[Xperia Z1 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] brickhayabusa:
try it by yourself and see :)
[Xperia Z1 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] team_div:
don't flash not good enough

camera is the same.... half green and other half laggy picture

battery seems ok ok but not that good.

instead of this Rom I'll prefer this
[MTCB Android Head Units Q&A] mrtowel:
Hi,

I bought a USB camera for my head unit (MTCC-KLD6-V2.91) from AliExpress, connected it (using a USB port which gets the power from the car, while the data gets into the head unit), and got a picture :). After few seconds, it suddenly disappeared, so i did what i thought was wise - and tried the a different USB port (which gets the power directly from the head unit), but no still picture (i said - ohh well, cheap camera)

Trying to understand if that's a camera or a headunit issue, i tried to connect it to my PC, which happily was more sophisticated than the head unit, and notified me that the USB port is trying to consume too much power and got disconnected, well - that's a bummer! try to connect it again through a USB current meter - and it was shut down immediately - turns out the USB connector was defective, and when bent, was shortening the power lines.

I cut it out - replaced the connector, and got the camera to work (on my PC), but i wasn't so lucky with the head unit or the power adapter connected to the car, both aren't working anymore (the head unit works well - only the USB port isn't)

So I opened the head unit (hoping to see some burned fuse) - but no visible damage :(

Does anyone have an idea where/what to look for?

[ I'm not sure if the forum rules allows me to post link to the product i bought - but if anyone interested, message me and i'll be happy to share the link]

Thanks.
[MTCB Android Head Units Q&A] ZelenyR:
Burned USB

Hello, could you switch ON your WiFi interface on this headunit? Please send me a link to your headunit type. Maybe i can help you. BR Radek
[MTCB Android Head Units Q&A] mrtowel:
i'm not sure i follow...

the device works well, everything but the USB port seems to not be affected by the shortage (so yes - i can turn on the wifi interface).

my device is :

MCU version：

MTCC-KLD6-V2.91

May 31 2016 19:54:14

Android version：

5.1.1

1024*600

Kernel version：

3.0.101+

root@chun-book #11

Thu Jun 30 11:25:16 CST 2016

Build number：

rk3188-userdebug 22062016.17:05:11
[MTCB Android Head Units Q&A] ZelenyR:
burned USB

One day before I repaired one headunit with same issue and also reason of defect was same - high current from 5V supply on USB interface . Repaired MTCC has also another symptom and it was WiFi issue - when I tried to switch on WiFi interface system after few seconds switched it OFF. The reason is very simple - on that MTCC was supply of WiFi module connected to same 5V as USB ports.

5V on your mainboard will be probably generated by switching supply source and its current capability is bigger than 4A but this supply voltage is distributed to many subsystems and each trunk is switched by MOSFET. In my case weak point was inductor connected between 5V power supply and switching MOSFET. This inductor was burned by overcurrent . I think that in your case it will be similar. It is necessary to find path on PCB between supply source and +5V USB pin and on this path will be probably burned inductor. All is highly dependent on type of used mainboard.

BR Radek
[MTCB Android Head Units Q&A] dhmsjs:
Attached is an annotated image of my Klyde main board labeled KD-HCT-MB 2015/07/18 Rev-3.1 1535. The two switching regs on the right are controlled by the MCU; the upper one (U25) supplies the USB hub through transistors (Q8 & Q9) which are controlled by MCU pin 38. On my board there is an inductor (L14) near the USB device (U11) which supplies power to it. If you have a similar main board, that may be your inductor.
[MTCB Android Head Units Q&A] ZelenyR:
Burned USB

Hello, this is exactly picture of my repaired PCB. Inductor close to USB is used for separating path used for supply WiFi module ( there is 3.3V LDO supplied after MOSFET switch from this path close to WiFi). I don´t remember exact number of inductor but in my case was burned L16 ??? which is located on your PCB in group of components is on left side of the MCU under video switch, in middle of line of component above two electrolytic capacitors. This inductor is connected directly to 5V switching supply on one side and on oposite side is connected switching MOSFET which provides supply to USB ports (here is connected other inductor close the big black multiconnector).

BR Radek
[MTCB Android Head Units Q&A] dhmsjs:
Yes that group also includes the Q8 and Q9 I mentioned.
[MTCB Android Head Units Q&A] shisamo:
my device is :

MCU version：

MTCC-KLD6-V2.97

Android version：

5.1.1

1024*600

Kernel version：

3.0.101+

it is completely happened the same to me. When I did install my head unit it did have a smoke came out from my head unit look like something burned inside which look like burn by over current and then my wifi cannot work.

But can i ask how can test which compontent is broken and even i find out how can i replace it.

Look like the all the compontent is surface mount.

Thanks a lot.
[MTCB Android Head Units Q&A] santibiotico:
Help!!! USB short circuit - USB and WiFi not working!

Hi

I have a similar issue. When cabling my car with a USB cable connected to my MTCB head unit I accidentally created a short circuit. I could see - and smell - the smoke.

The USBs and the WiFi are NOT working now. Everything else still works.

There is no signal at VCC pins in the USB ports and the WiFi is not working, so I presume the issue can be similar to what [MENTION=7745030]ZelenyR[/MENTION] and [MENTION=6906599]dhmsjs[/MENTION] described.

My board is a KGL-A90-MAIN-v06.1 - slightly different from [MENTION=6906599]dhmsjs[/MENTION] 's one.

I am posting the links to two pictures I just took - (sorry, the system won't let me attach them or add a link)

- Pic #1 (imageshack.com/a/img922/9544/VQeiqx.jpg). It shows the whole board, as a reference

- Pic #2 (imageshack.com/a/img924/4956/pfTsmB.png). It double-clicks into what I understand as the potentially faulty groups according to the info in this thread. I can't see any clear evidence of a burnt component; I can however notice some possible damage signs in the MOSFET (A79TF) (in yellow in the picture, look at that form of a 'bubble' in the middle of the component), but I am not entirely sure the component is damaged. The inductors L10 and L19 show continuity when measuring their resistance as well.

I would start replacing the MOSFET and - possibly - the inductors. Could you please help me:

(1) What type of SMD inductors do I need to use?

(2) Any idea looking at my board?

Many thanks!
[MTCB Android Head Units Q&A] dhmsjs:
Given that the lnductors show continuity they are probably okay; I wouldn't try to replace them. Yes the MOSFET may likely be blown, especially if it has a "bubble" on it. That's what I would replace first.
[MTCB Android Head Units Q&A] mrtowel:
Finally got to try and fix my unit

after trying all kind of 'external' fixes (such as getting USB to work by connecting an external 12v to 5v converter - which was faulty and caused my canbus decoder to always get 12v on the ignition wire :rolleyes: - and yes, i tried to pull 12v from the canbus decoder ignition wire), i decided it's time to try and fix it in the right way.

i followed your advice - and found a path to the USB Vcc wire from the 7805 regulator, and i was kind of surprised - i have 5v (well, almost, 4.8) on the USB output, I connected some USB device - and the voltage dropped to 1.3v.

i narrowed it down to some component before the USB output, which has 5v on on end, and 4.8v on the other end, when i connect a USB device - the voltage on the 5v end stays 5v, but dropped to 1.3 on the other end - so i guess, eureka?

Now i just need to understand what is this component - where to get a replacement one and how to replace it :) (see attached image)

can you help identifying the component?

Thanks.
[MTCB Android Head Units Q&A] dhmsjs:
Your board is different from mine, but very similar. On my board that component is labeled "L2" I think, although the printing is very poor so I can't be sure.

If yours is labeled L-something, then it is most certainly an inductor. They should normally have a very low resistance (a few ohms at most) and from the behavior you describe it sounds like this one has a fairly high resistance. So an easy check to confirm that would be to measure the resistance of the part with an ohmmeter. A high resistance would confirm that it is damaged.

As for replacement, I suspect that this is another case of a noise filter -- its purpose is to block electrical noise from the outside world from coming into the unit. But the only way to know for sure would be to draw out the whole circuit from 7805 to the USB port.

If it is just a noise filter then its value is probably not critical (any value of inductance is better than none), and for a test at least, you could just try jumpering across it. If that jumper gives you a solid 5v on the USB output, then that would also confirm that the inductor is the cause of your problem.

Make sure that the device you use to test the USB does not use much power! For instance your camera is probably not a good choice for testing. :)
[MTCB Android Head Units Q&A] mrtowel:
Eureka indeed, i soldered a jumper instead of the faulted inductor, and everything seems to work :D

do you think i better solder a replacement? or i'm all good with a simple jumper?
[MTCB Android Head Units Q&A] dhmsjs:
Congrats! The designers put that inductor there for a reason (why add the cost otherwise?) so a jumper is probably not the best solution. But if it works for you, that's what matters most. It's your choice which way to go.
[MTCB Android Head Units Q&A] mrtowel:
I'm sure it's there for a reason, i'm just wondering what's the expected impact by not having that? less resilient to "noisy" USB devices? for me it actually protected the rest of the circuit from the over current.

if i'd like to replace it, what should i get? there is no indication of what exactly the value of it (in whatever unit inductors are measured)
[MTCB Android Head Units Q&A] dhmsjs:
Not USB devices so much as noise from the car's electrical system (spark plugs for example). Automotive environments are notoriously bad places for electronics to live in happily.

The units of inductance are "henries" or in this case microhenries. No way to tell the value now and I don't have a suitable meter so I can't measure mine. But again the value probably isn't critical, and any inductance is better than none. If you do want to replace it a good first order approximation might be to find one that is physically the same size. Pick one that's toward the upper end of the inductance range available for that physical size and you'll likely be fine.
[MTCB Android Head Units Q&A] mbchaves:
Thank you so much... I fixed my wifi issue

Hi Guys, I've been reading this thread and fixed the wifi of my head unit MTCC-KLD6-V2.86... Like all here, all of sudden the wifi wouldnt switch on... After opening the unit and examining the main board, the L19 inductor was burnt (charcoaled ). As my electronic skills are very basic, I did what someone did here - to jumper the failed inductor and Voila!!! the wifi is back on working. I know there's a risk with this and simplest solution is not to use the USB cable that comes with the unit. I am happy with accessing internet via wifi/hotspot.. Hope this helps someone out there.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzVz3275lE4aN3RNUGlpTE5rZVlXWmowckhGbHRtbm5PNGhz[/URL]

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BzVz3275lE4aNmFZQWx0ZVB1NkxiT2cxZ0V3SUVUaFRBLVNj[/URL]

---------- Post added at 07:54 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:49 AM ----------
[MTCB Android Head Units Q&A] ExtremeMOD:
Good info here
[MTCB Android Head Units Q&A] Mike7927:
Hello. Sorry I reply here but I have got very similar main board as yours. I lost USB and wifi. What do you think what can be reason of that? Can you help me? I took off inductor L14. Can be that? Thank you and sorry
[MTCB Android Head Units Q&A] dhmsjs:
If you "took off" the inductor then yes that would disable the USB. In this situation the correct thing to do to "remove" the inductor from the circuit is to jumper across it. But why did you want to "take off" the inductor? Was it damaged? If the answer is yes, then you want to jumper across it, not remove it from the board.
[Sprint Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge] rek410:
OK so 15min ago my phone was working fine.

I plugged it into my computer via USB to I could copy some videos and my PC didn't detect it so I rebooted the phone to see if that would help....

From that point on, it doesn't go past the initial "Samsung" screen. Well, it sort of does... regardless of any button combinations I press while booting up it always goes into a bright write and green screen that isn't normal. It is some sort of ghosted or washed out image.

From there the only thing it responds to is a forced reboot and it loops back to this again.

I've tried every button combo available and they don't respond. I cannot get to the download menu or the recovery menu so I can't reload the ROM or the TWRP recovery.

I've never seen anything like this in over 10 years of rooting phones... and the worst part is that I wasn't making any changes, just doing a reboot.

Any ideas of the problem?
[Windows 10 Mobile] JFerzHack:
I really need to stop some processes on my phone. Is there any way to stop processes on my phone trough windows device portal. Maybe some registry hacking
[Note 7 Questions & Answers] chanukya:
Hello everyone,

Would really appreciate advice on an imminent purchasing decision. I have a Note4 and a iPhone6s plus as my daily phones right now, so this is not about phone wars but a genuine question. In fact I have a brand new iPhone 7 plus 256GB sitting unopened at home and will probably be returned within 2 weeks.

I would like to use an android phone as my daily driver instead of the iPhone and I find the Note4 fingerprint reader too cumbersome compared to the iPhone. So am looking to upgrade. However, I am not able to decide if I should go for 1) An unlocked s7 edge 2) carrier s7 edge 3) carrier Note 7.

If I understand correctly, the unlocked S7 edge appears to the fastest version, and B&H has it for $670. However I believe accidental damage warranty is a big issue as there’s some doubt about Squaretrade covering unlocked phones. Please correct me if I’m mistaken or if you’ve ever successfully filed a claim with them for unlocked phones.

The locked (ATT) s7 edge of course is more expensive and after tax I am looking at 794+80 = 869. However with the 256GB card promotion now ongoing that cost will be recouped and we’re looking at the same price as unlocked.

I believe the Note 7 (ATT) was about 100 bucks more than the S7 so another 110 after taxes. Given that I’ve spent 900 another 100 bucks is not going to break the bank. Do you folks feel the Note 7 is a worthy upgrade over the S7 edge or am I moving backwards due to the Gorilla Glass 5 and Lag issues? Specifically do the US Note 7 users notice a much bigger lag than US S7 edge users? I use the Note 4 Stylus maybe once a month, so while it feels good on paper, I know I will hardly ever use it. Future proofing is nice, so I'd consider taking a Note if it's at least as good as the S7 edge. Thanks for the advice..
[Note 7 Questions & Answers] winol:
if you dont use the s pen, you should consider the s7 edge, the note is the note because the s pen, I have de exynos note 7, and the fingerprint scanner is fast, has no lag, absolutely no complaints of any kind, I dont know about the snapdragon version
[Note 7 Questions & Answers] Phlip00ws6:
I have both and the main differences are spen, screen size, and the new UI on the Note 7, I prefer it over the s7 edges touchwiz. There's also a difference in the edge. On the s7 edge I find myself accidentally touching the edge with my palm or finger a whole lot more than on the Note 7 causing accidental clicks or scrolling issues. As far as performance, root and debloat both of them and they'll both be smooth.

I'd say the Note 7 is worth the extra, you'll likely find uses for the spen quite often and the extra screen real estate is nice.
[MTCB Android Head Units General] CadillacMike:
I was on the Joying website and saw this post:

https://www.carjoying.com/Joying-blog/12.html

Date: 2016-03-28 These android 4.4.4 kitat system firmware fixed the Joying bluetooth(Only front speakers have sound) and other problem.

Has anyone tried this one? I have a Joying MTCD, Android 5.1, so I can't try it. But on my Joying, when on a bluetooth call sound only comes from one speaker. To me this update reads like it fixes it?

Can anyone confirm this?

Edit to add - I know the update says it is from March, but the blog post was updated yesterday, so I dont know if this is new or not -

"Posted on Sep 18 ,2016"
[General Questions and Answers] adrenalinnn:
Hi,

I posted this http://xdaforums.com/nexus-5x/help/flashing-android-7-space-sd-card-24gb-t3464686 because I have problem with my phone but I am new and because of it I can not reply my own post! I don´t know what to do to reply my post? I can only edit it.
[Xperia Z3 Compact Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] Undeon:
Hey guys,

I have to sent my Z3C to repair on warranty, because of the microSD/microUSB flip problem.

During the time with my phone, I rooted it, installed TWRP from How-to: root, keep and backup DRM keys, etc. [KitKat/Lollipops/Marshmallow/etc.] and then, I installed SLiMM rom.

Now, I'm without root, without TWRP, closed bootloader (never changed that) and stock rom (Thank You Pokemon Go -.-').

I'm safe to call Sony for assistance?

Thanks
[Xperia Z3 Compact Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] PuffDaddy_d:
Yeah, you're fine. As long as the issue is clearly hardware related, there's no real concern about them denying the claim for software changes. Just don't be surprised if they factory reset your device before mailing it back to you.
[Xperia Z3 Compact Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] Undeon:
I contacted them through chat, and they said I'll have to pay to change the microsd port because I changed the software...

Because of that I'm concerned...
[Xperia Z3 Compact Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] Dinkec27:
If you restored to factory state before taking it to the service then I believe there is no way for them to know you actually did some software changes to the device
[Xperia Z3 Compact Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] Undeon:
Anyone heard about any kind of track done by Sony of what has done to the phones?