yashsingh1/xdaforums huggingface dataset:
[Galaxy S II Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] marcimix:
I was encouraged by some of you to try new marshmallow and lollipop ROMs but after using a titanium backup and during restore app, phone give me some fcs after both of ROMs. Anyway It is doesn't matter cause is too slowly for me.

So I came back to CM11 with stagefright fix by Lanchon. Everything goes perfect but the cLock weather is not working at all. I know that I need resize widget and set up everything in lock screen setting but it makes only calendar work.

Thank you for a tip!

One think I changed in a flash I download a micro opengaps to install google launcher by default.
[Galaxy S II Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] Saber:
I'm getting the same problem on Slimsaber 4.4.4 rom (by Greekdragon)

Here is the log:

E/dashclock_WeatherExten(12106): Showing a weather extension error
E/dashclock_WeatherExten(12106): com.google.android.apps.dashclock.weather.CantGetWeatherException: Error parsing weather feed XML.
E/dashclock_WeatherExten(12106): at com.google.android.apps.dashclock.weather.YahooWeatherApiClient.getWeatherForWoeid(YahooWeatherApiClient.java:168)
E/dashclock_WeatherExten(12106): at com.google.android.apps.dashclock.weather.YahooWeatherApiClient.getWeatherForLocationInfo(YahooWeatherApiClient.java:75)
E/dashclock_WeatherExten(12106): at com.google.android.apps.dashclock.weather.WeatherExtension.tryPublishWeatherUpdateFromLocationInfo(WeatherExtension.java:264)
E/dashclock_WeatherExten(12106): at com.google.android.apps.dashclock.weather.WeatherExtension.onUpdateData(WeatherExtension.java:172)
E/dashclock_WeatherExten(12106): at com.google.android.apps.dashclock.api.DashClockExtension$1$1.run(DashClockExtension.java:312)
E/dashclock_WeatherExten(12106): at android.os.Handler.handleCallback(Handler.java:733)
E/dashclock_WeatherExten(12106): at android.os.Handler.dispatchMessage(Handler.java:95)
E/dashclock_WeatherExten(12106): at android.os.Looper.loop(Looper.java:136)
E/dashclock_WeatherExten(12106): at android.os.HandlerThread.run(HandlerThread.java:61)
E/dashclock_WeatherExten(12106): Caused by: java.io.FileNotFoundException: http://weather.yahooapis.com/forecastrss?w=1103816&u=c
E/dashclock_WeatherExten(12106): at com.android.okhttp.internal.http.HttpURLConnectionImpl.getInputStream(HttpURLConnectionImpl.java:186)
E/dashclock_WeatherExten(12106): at com.google.android.apps.dashclock.weather.YahooWeatherApiClient.getWeatherForWoeid(YahooWeatherApiClient.java:94)

Seems like the weather feed XML is down, meaning that it will affect all users of this dashclock extension :( (please confirm)

gsstudios
[Galaxy S 4 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] Nipper85:
Hi all. I need 4.4.2 firmware for I9508 one sim china mobile.

I search on many sites, i found firmware for i9508 dual sim but for my phone i can't find.

Please help me. I want install Kushan rom, but it fail. I want install other language.
[Galaxy S 4 Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] audit13:
Is this what you need: http://www.sammobile.com/firmwares/database/GT-I9508/ ?
[Non-Touchscreen Windows Mobile Other] duke_stix:
Hi all

Wondering if all the smartphone users could post here the names of any software they find they couldnt live without with a short description and a link to download.

I mean like essential apps/games/home screen layouts and stuff

thanx
[Non-Touchscreen Windows Mobile Other] kohala:
Obviously you just didnt realise what you just typed.

i'm sure you know there are tons of sites already doing this.. rating "software" and recommending software.. and no need of such waisted threads.

here's a link to begin your quest for recommended software.

www.download.com <- filter to mobile software (top rated, popular) .. ofcourse there are more sites on the net that does this better.
[Non-Touchscreen Windows Mobile Other] duke_stix:
hey

lol. i can assure you i am aware of what i type!

my intentions were to eventually setup a CAB file repository for MS Smartphones here on xda-devs which can be accessed via our smartphones over wifi! i am working on compiling a list as we speak however i am having trouble finding some good freeware apps and will end up having to post 'trial' versions
[Galaxy S 4 Mini Q&A, Help & Troubleshooting] bicha2016:
J'ai un s4 mini duos que j'ai achete en janvier

Au debut ik etait bien sans pb je le branche sur mon pc et detecté sans pb he fait tout mes transfert de donnés sana pb

Je mis a jours le systeme vers ube version officiel 4.4.2 via odin et tout va bien detecté sans pb

Mais la derniere semaine il n'est plus detecte sur pc via usb cable lorsque he le branche il se met en charge mais sans aucune signe de detection du materiel ni sur telephone ni sur pc.

Je tester d'autres cables , d'autres pc et rien be change et le pb persiste.

Aider moi svp

Mod edit: Translation added.

I s4 mini duos that I bought in January

At the beginning ik was well without problem I plug it into my PC and detected without problem he does all my transfer given sana bp

I put a day the system to
[MTCB Hardware Development] CARRisma:
In some cars, such as mine, when I start the engine, ACC power is cut to the HU. So, if I am sitting in the car with the HU on and engine off, when I then start the engine, power is briefly interrupted to the HU. Sometimes this can cause issues with Android. It can also restart the boot sequence if the HU hadn't fully booted. So I have been considering this mod...

680uF & 1,000uF capacitors have been suggested.

But then I saw mention of some prebuilt timer PCBs and there were some links to listings on eBay USA. Has anyone got any links to tried and tested devices sold through UK based sellers that are relatively simple for a non-electronics expert to configure?
[MTCB Hardware Development] Gona80:
What are your exact problems with your HU?

I had the same issues with those cheap USB plugs for the cigarette lighter.

5V output is not stable during power on, the connected usb harddrive does a reset.

I took a look at the switched 12V supply. In my case when powering on the switched power supply is pulled down to 0V for about 2seconds.

That's nothing you can solve with a capacitor. Step 1 was to use a diode with resitor capacitor combination to switch a relay.

Step 2 was to use a different 5V supply which is stable down to 6V.
[MTCB Hardware Development] CARRisma:
It's not a major problem. I just don't like power being interrupted when starting the engine. This can interrupt the boot process, causing a slight delay. It can also cause an error message when booted, some sort of system app / service doesn't like it. Also, I don't think it's good for device longevity having its power suddenly cut and reapplied in quick succession. So I wanna fit a capacitor to keep the ACC power live to the HU when starting the engine.
[MTCB Hardware Development] CARRisma:
I'm looking at electrolytic capacitors on eBay and it seems like a mission getting a 12v capacitor. Would a 10v or 16v capacitor work? Which would be best?
[MTCB Hardware Development] solmer:
Hi CARRisma, just use a capacitor rated above 12v, 16v would be fine, keep in mind that xxV referes to the maximun volta. the capacitor can handle, the other value ( µF, F...) is the "charge" it can hold. Very important, if you use electrolytic capacitor pay attention to the polarity (- to GND and + to POSITIVE), otherwhise it could EXPLODE:eek:

A picture (video) is worth a thousand words

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-KX5HIE7Ddk
[MTCB Hardware Development] TT_Vert:
I'm going to have to do this too. Every time I start my car w/ the unit already booted up it starts to shut down and it says exchange service has crashed or something similar. Are you just using one cap and without a diode? Could you tell me what you go with?

Dave
[MTCB Hardware Development] CARRisma:
Yes, that's the problem I have, some sort of Google service crashes. I plan to use a diode too.
[MTCB Hardware Development] mike.s:
You don't want a 12 v one - "12 volts" in a car is actually closer to 13.5 v. I'd get a 25 v one. You can use one which is rated for more voltage within reason (e.g. don't go for a 250 v one), it's just that as the voltage rating increases so does the size and cost.
[MTCB Hardware Development] TT_Vert:
so are you guys going to use a 1 Farad 16v cap? Unless my math is wrong but that is HUGE.

Dave
[MTCB Hardware Development] CARRisma:
Pass, I haven't got that far yet and electronics isn't my strong point.
[MTCB Hardware Development] TT_Vert:
Or based on size constraints i'm thinking maybe wiring three 5.5V 1.5F in series to get me to about 16.5V .5F. That'd give me about a second and a half of capacity down to 10V. You guys think that'd be acceptable for this instance?
[MTCB Hardware Development] pounce:
Maybe try one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PD65UGA

http://www.3rdbrakeflasher.com/timer-c-68/multifunctional-3v24v-time-delay-relay-timer-p-192.html
[MTCB Hardware Development] TT_Vert:
That will work for the times when I start the car right away but for the times the accessory is turned on then the car is started it wouldn't. I just need to retain 10-13Vdc for a few seconds while cranking voltage dips.

Dave

For packaging reasons I think I may go with this instead. Three of these will put me at 16.2V and 1.68F and I'd have ~5 seconds of runtime in a manageable package about 1.25" square. Problem is I have to buy 100 of these things although their 100qty is cheaper than most 5qty. Opinions?

Or maybe these as they're a bit cheaper and smaller
[MTCB Hardware Development] pounce:
Is that a response to the timing I posted? If so this timer is programmable so if you want it to smooth out a drop in acc it will do that. You simply set its delay longer that you expect the drop for the cranking. Obviously, you can also use it for longer delays if you want your unit to be powered for a period of time after you turn off the car. Both short and long delays will smooth out your issue.
[MTCB Hardware Development] TT_Vert:
I can't always predect the delay between acc on and crank to be honest. With that I just checked w/ my DVOM and the acc. goes dead on crank so that is my culprit, not so much a minor voltage drop but a complete drop.
[MTCB Hardware Development] mike.s:
The ignition wire is only a signal, power is drawn from a different wire. Maybe a couple of mA? So, a few mF might do.
[MTCB Hardware Development] TT_Vert:
You're right. I thought it was more than a signal. it is only drawing 1ma. Excellent, looks like a 35v 1000μF should do nicely.
[MTCB Hardware Development] pounce:
I think perhaps you misunderstand how this works. If you configure the timer delay for 30 seconds it solves your problem. If you configure it for 10 seconds it probably solves your problem. You don't need to know specifically how long because if you set it at something like 30 and your cranking lasts 3 seconds it still works because the cut of acc triggers the timer and the power stays on for 30 seconds. 3 seconds later the power turns on and the timer stops because you have power again.
[MTCB Hardware Development] TT_Vert:
Thanks, I'll look further into this.

Dave
[MTCB Hardware Development] TT_Vert:
Went ahead and used a 470μF cap today w/ a 1A rectifier diode and it works great. W/O the diode i only got about 1/2 a second of capacity. with the diode I get over 7 seconds. It seems the HU will stay on when the acc. is all the way down to ~6.5v which surprised me.
[MTCB Hardware Development] Basspaul:
I'm looking to do this as well. Just to confirm: you went from the ACC/IGN to GND with the setup?

thansk
[MTCB Hardware Development] TT_Vert:
yes on the cap. Also used a diode.

Dave
[MTCB Hardware Development] Marius B:
Can show a pictures ? And tell me where I need to put and what ?

Thanks !
[MTCB Hardware Development] TT_Vert:
I don't have pics but you have the 470uF cap being fed 12vDC and ground. The positive side of the cap will have the diode on it with polarity to allow current to the radio but not to allow backfeeding. Then you'll have to put two wires on the positive side. One before the diode (feed from the 12vDC switched) and the other one will be between the diode the cap and it'll go to the head unit. By doing this the diode will allow current to the cap and stereo but no backfeed because of the diode. Best I can do for ya in paint

You'll need:

Diode: [IMG="KAC"]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/xj70veryhawwvx9/KAC.jpg?dl=0[/IMG]1N4001 QTY 1

Capacitor: 370uF 15Vdc QTY1
[MTCB Hardware Development] Marius B:
I am not very good on electronic tell me I need to cut ignition wire or put in paralel ?
[MTCB Hardware Development] TT_Vert:
You will use the ignition wire that is feeding the radio now. This will go inline between the ignition wire and the actual stereo. It is probably a red wire. Yellow is 12V from the battery generally also. . IMO if you are not very good w/ electronics it may not be worth it to attempt this.

Dave
[MTCB Hardware Development] Marius B:
Like that ?
[MTCB Hardware Development] Marius B:
I find 370uF is ok ?
[MTCB Hardware Development] TT_Vert:
Yes 370uF 15V is fine. Does it say 15V ? It has to be 15v OR LARGER.
[MTCB Hardware Development] Marius B:
Sorry I find 330 uF 15v . Is how I put on pictures ?
[MTCB Hardware Development] TT_Vert:
Yes that'll work.
[MTCB Hardware Development] hadeone:
Since we're talking about powering on the unit and the ignition wire, does anyone have an idea on how to get this unit to behave the like the stock in terms of power on without the key? On the stock radio you could press the volume knob and turn the unit on without the key. I'd like to be able to use the radio if the key isn't in the ignition. Thanks
[MTCB Hardware Development] pyraxiate:
All you have to do is have a Constant 12v running to the unit. Run a power wire from the battery and you well have it stay on permanent. They are designed to turn off with the car so you don't kill your battery though.
[MTCB Hardware Development] TT_Vert:
If you are referring to RAP (Retained accessory power) then it depends on the car. My GM uses RAP via serial bus which this does not use so no dice.

Dave

---------- Post added at 05:28 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:26 PM ----------

No, look at my picture again. You'll have two wires going to the switched 12Vdc, one a feed from he car and the other going to the stereo One will be on either side of the diode.

Dave
[MTCB Hardware Development] hadeone:
No it's not that. It would not stay on after taking the key out but the original bmw oem radio would turn on if you pressed the power button even if the key was not in the ignition and ACC position.

I'm thinking it's something that can be changed in software since turning the key off doesnt cut off power to the radio but sends a shutdown signal.
[MTCB Hardware Development] popeye70:
Are you searching a thing like this: http://www.phonocar.it/en/accessori...sion-adapters/device-keeps-tension/05146.html ?
[MTCB Hardware Development] CARRisma:
Yes, possibly something like that but preferably from the UK. But looks like I might have no other option so might buy that one.
[MTCB Hardware Development] chipyy94:
Hey i would need some help with rectifier diode and capicators. I want that my radio wont die when i start car so I have this headunit click, i tried with 1A 20V rectifier diode and it didnt work (mybe i killed diod or it was to weak). So what do you suggest me? I
[MTCB Hardware Development] TT_Vert:
You also need a capacitor to store the energy.

Dave
[MTCB Hardware Development] chipyy94:
I have 680uf, 470uf, 330uf, but atm my rectifier diode is dead. Which rectifier diode you suggest?
[MTCB Hardware Development] TT_Vert:
a 1A 50V 1N40001 will be fine.
[MTCB Hardware Development] ajayel:
My Mazda 3 (2008) KLD HU was powering off whilst cranking and also after stopping the engine - even if the car key was in the ACC position. I followed this thread and then went ahead to add the diode & capacitor. This was between the main connector to the car harness and the connector to the back of the Klyde (not the canbus cables). I cut the supplied red and black cables and added in the circuit described on this thread. 3 photos attached. All done and it's works great - finally apps and 3G don't reset during startup and now for the first time the shutdown delays works. Thanks all!
[MTCB Hardware Development] Marmalux:
Thank`s and also advice needed plus a small contribution from me :

Thank you for this. i`m having same issue when starting the engine and i was thinking to add timer relays, but this is a much simpler solution (and cheaper).

Someone said that is a Acc delay setting, but i do not think that will help when booting (since is a software setting that needs a already booted system to work). One more solution would be to modify the MCU image to actually include timers (delays) to Acc signal but as far as i know, the MCU image is not yet fully reversed, so until developing a hacked version of the MCU software this is a way. Although this type of modifications are very risky, therefore i will try to follow the harness wires and install this in a more safe and accessible location (not in the back of the HU, but best in the fuse box of the engine area).

I need some advice on keeping only the USB port powered all the time (reason see below). The only solution i have right now is to modify the USB connector by taking the power pins (1 and 4) from the connector and connecting it directly to the battery through a some type of DC power convertor from 12V to 5V.

The advice i need is there is another more simple way of doing this, or if my solution is the best what type of convertor to use? (a voltage divider is good enough?) considering the fact the device that needs to be powered all the time is a Huawei E587 3G modem with built in wifi (the issue with it is that when it`s battery drains out he shut`s down (just like a phone) and when starting the HU it enters in a battery charging mode (it does not boot) and i have to manually start it).

So, i`m opened to any suggestions. Please advise !

Info : Car is a 2010 Mazda 6 with proprietary connector that has both battery wire and acc wire, has CAN-Bus

HU is a KLD6 RK3188.

Small contribution :

Symptoms : When radio station does not broadcast to much sound (between two songs for example) i could hear very clearly a very annoying static noise that was very loud if the station signal quality was not very strong.

I have managed to increase the quality of the radio reception by connecting the external antenna wire (blue wire) to 12V. This should be done by connecting it to the acc wire of the car through a diode (to prevent own HU power from blue wire reaching acc input of the HU resulting in a non functional auto power off when acc signal goes off).
[MTCB Hardware Development] halloj:
Now I'm confused. I thought the blue antenna wire actually fed 12 volt to the external antenna? You're saying you feed 12 volt into that one?
[MTCB Hardware Development] Marmalux:
Yes, the blue wire feed 12V, and yes i have feed 12V to it. This actually started from a discussion with the KLD manufacturer. They recommended to apply 12V to the blue wire and reception quality got a lot better in my case, but found the hard way that the HU will not power off any more when acc signal goes off. So i used a diode to allow the power go only one way (Car acc to blue wire only).
[MTCB Hardware Development] halloj:
Well, that's another blue cable that has an arrow on it. Not the one in the HU factory loom. This cable normally

is the feeder for a built in antenna amp and should have 12 volt connected to it. I would connect that blue with blue

antenna out cable in the loom.
[MTCB Hardware Development] Marmalux:
Please read more carefully. This is part of the discussion i have posted (bottom older, top newer message). You can see that i refer to the blue wire that comes out of the unit (not the one in the picture from the power injector). they have said to connect the blue wire that comes out from the HU (I even mention there that the wire has 12V on it..... and they say to connect it anyway to 12V).

Please consider this is not just theory. I have done it and it works. Please do not read superficially and then interpret it just to tell me it got it wrong. i have done it, and it works.

I just wanted to help, but i have no problem deleting my posts. If so please let me know, i have no problem deleting my posts and you can ignore or consider this discussion never happened.

Thank you!
[MTCB Hardware Development] TT_Vert:
1n4001 will work.
[MTCB Hardware Development] halloj:
I would very much appreciate the e-mail address to the lady from KLD.

Thanks
[MTCB Hardware Development] Marmalux:
I do not have a e-mail address or direct contact. I have requested support through the reseller (had several issues). Usually i was receiving answer within one working day. The person i was speaking to was Zada She from Top Navi Ltd
[MTCB Hardware Development] jakejm79:
Sounds like the static is a grounding issue probably due to poor QC of the unit, applying +12V to a wire that should be outputting +12V probably helps to balance out the voltage mismatch from the poor ground. Most of the time the factory ground in the wiring harness is woefully poor for these low quality aftermarket units (but the quality OEM stereos have little issue).

Also for your USB issue why not just use a powered USB hub, you are overthinking and complicating things.
[MTCB Hardware Development] doitright:
I think there is a better way to implement this modification.

Use a smaller capacitor that will keep the line powered for maybe half second.

Find the line that runs the car's starter solenoid, tap in to that, and feed (through diode) the capacitor.

This will allow it to bridge the gap between "on" and "start", but maintain signal during start.
[MTCB Hardware Development] CaptShaft:
For sake of discussion, wouldn't it make more sense to have a diode that has greater power dissipation than a 1A / 50V diode? That seems way too tiny for what we are asking it to do.

If we consider a modern Android Auto head unit, like this:

https://www.carjoying.com/joying-ne...bluetooth-dvr-obd2-mirror-link-goole-map.html

The power output is listed at 4x 45W or about 180 watts, maximum. At 12V, that is 15A of current. The fuse on the back of these head units is around 20A, if memory serves.

Meanwhile, the diode you've suggested is about 50W max.

Here is a power diode which is 200V & 20A: http://www.futurlec.com/Diodes/MUR2020RGpr.shtml (Get the heatsink as well.)

Wouldn't it make more sense to use something a bit more robust, like this?

Don't forget to use a clamp-on heatsink when soldering.
[MTCB Hardware Development] TT_Vert:
No, check peak forward current. This is more than adequate for this especially since it's the low current switched wire. On the constant 12v wire it draws about 1.25A constant only

Dave
[MTCB Hardware Development] ajayel:
Interesting point. My understanding is the ACC input to the head unit is a high resistance input with low current draw. It's used to detect voltage for switching other circuits from the main power circuit. In itself I don't think that input is used to power much.

After reading this forum I setup the 1N4004 diode and 470uF cap in my vehicle and it works great to maintain voltage to the ACC input during cranking. Before that Android started shutdown whenever the key was turned.
[MTCB Hardware Development] dhmsjs:
On my KLD unit the ACC input only drives the bases of 2 transistors through a net impedance of roughly 12k ohms. Total current draw from ACC shouldn't be more than about a milliamp.
[MTCB Hardware Development] CaptShaft:
You're correct, my bad. I was initially thinking that we needed a diode on the main positive line because we were adding a capacitor to that, not the ACC line.

So the 1 Amp diode will work after all. :crying:
[MTCB Hardware Development] grgart:
Made a detachable module so if I'm not satisfied I can modify it.

I used UF4007 1A 1000V ultra fast diode and 1000uF 35V Rm5 cap.

No more uncontrolled power-down/reboot apps/google service crash and after ignition is off unit turns off with 3-4sec delay.

Thanx for suggestions.